ieee Coe eee the, fae o> SSIS ee treet”, Rieittnade, wets . s ye: § shee, Jone lace ee Pring ai OF Th pa , ioe < > Sapir SG sarep aa Piensa teat : teins Penske gs : Pathan een a . z Mtetind elke esl i 3 aa oa ee eta, Seren bad EA Web eae eee a Pee eee, ears ito, on ae ss es ee aN va te ed tip EN ee ee om a ae ae cae, le ImSiienh” Senenkes LP\ a \ i auth fy VAY [Ssh SES oy (Ws | ae PY av yal ale Die, © ING Sine <2) uo . a y M ¥ x ’ : 1 r rn att ai a > Di vy 4 ’ r <“ sia . y ” +. . rt * : \ * we * : \ ! 1 “a , we “ ‘ i ; y & * b / y . \ A . s : m : ’ ; wit . a \ 5 ¥ i ». — * a ly — 2 > Pe * 4 « & ‘ \ f het > ' 2 ' wd “ ’ Q 7 ‘ ‘ A 7 - tf 2 ” . . a i> A ean ee . 7 : 4 ’ pie oe a% ‘ , % j x 7 a My Lorp, Tue honour conferred « on’ me in being permitted to dedicate the * exes pages to fone e Lordship pe an samen of eee IT I have the honour to be, ey ‘ ; My Lorp, . With the greatest respect, Your Lordship’s most obedient and very humble servant, Cuartes Exmé Francarenu. - PREFACE. In introducing the present Edition of THE MopERN CooK to the public, I beg to return my thanks for the patronage that has been awarded to former Editions, by the public at large, as well as by the profession, of whose approbation I feel most -proud. Indeed, I am so conscious of the value of the good opinion of these competent judges, that { do not hesitate to ascribe the steady demand with which the Work has hitherto been favoured to their liberal support. So gratifying an appreciation of my endeavours has naturally prompted me to render the present Edition in all respects worthy of a continuance of their patronage. I have in all cases most strictly studied economy,—by retrenching as far as it appeared to me consistent with propriety all unnecessary and too expensive accessories to the more costly kinds of dishes. The whole work has been entirely revised with scrupulous care and attention ; and upwards of eighty entirely new dishes, principally belonging to the Second Course department, have been added. I have also enlarged the glossary of technical terms :—and, in order to render the Work of easier reference to the public, as well as to the practitioner, no trouble has been spared to improve the Index. I have nearly doubled the original number of Bills of Fare ; and have added many of dinners served to Her Majesty the Queen. vi PREFACE. And now, generous and gentle patrons, 1 once more respect- fully take my leave of you for a while; and to you, Gentlemen of the Public Press, 1 beg to return my most sincere thanks for the handsome and kindly manner in which you noticed my earnest efforts to assist my English brethren to outrival their hitherto successful foreign competitors for fame in the Culinary But I should not do justice to my own feelings if I omitted on this occasion to offer my special thanks to the Author of the admirable little work. entitled “The Art of Dining, or Gastro- nomy and Gastronomers,” for the very flattering terms in which he has spoken of my professional labours. C, E. FRANCATELLI Warton ViLLas, Brompron, June 1st, 1853. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION SE ASS Dg In his present undertaking, the Author’s object has been to pro- duce a treatise which may be useful not only to cooks themselves but also to those who employ them. He has accordingly been as sparing as possible of the use of technical terms, and has endeavoured, at the same time, to be concise as well as explicit in his directions. Judicious economy being at all times a great desideratum, the Author has studied to apply its practice in the composition of every recipe contained in his book. Many dishes are obviously expensive, and can only be indulged in by the wealthy epicure ;—but even here, the cost may be reduced by avoiding waste, and by turning to account ingredients carefully reserved for the purpose by the aid of foresight and economical habits. In large establishments, when properly con- ducted, there 1s, indeed, less relative waste than in the kitchen of a small private family, under the management of an ordinary cook. Jt is necessary to remark, that throughout this work, the Author has supposed the various dishes and preparations are required to be made for a large number of guests, with the usual resources at hand * in a well-appointed kitchen: perfection and economy can only be fully attained under such circumstances. The variety and quantity of the ingredients recommended to be used will probably often appear lavish, therefore, to those whose culinary practice is limited, and who are, nevertheless, desirous of combining comparative success with moderate means. | For persons so situated, when desirous of indulging occasionally im dishes of a sumptuous character, no written directions would probably _ suffice, the only sure method in such cases is to resort to professional aid. But, in the majority of instances, the Author’s instructions will be found generally practicable ; common sense, aided by some experi- ence, will suggest’ the employment of available substitutes, when costly sauces and other recherche preparations are directed to be used. Simplicity is as essential an element‘in cookery as it is in other arts: the Author, therefore, particularly cautions the inexperienced Vill PREL ACE. practitioner from attempting too much. Excess m the quantity and variety of spices and condiments—the bane of English cookery—is especially to be guarded against. Nothing vitiates the palate more than a superabundant use of such stimulants. In the preparation of soups and sauces, this rule must be constantly borne in mind. In a treatise professing to treat of cookery as an art by which re- fined taste is to be gratified rather than a coarse appetite satisfied, it would be out of place to attempt to translate its rules into the hack- neyed terms employed in “ Guides” and “ Oracles” for economical makeshifts. Such attempts, too frequently made by English writers on gas- tronomy, at once betray their origin. The greater part of these authorities are persons who, having neither studied the rudiments nor practised the art to any extent, take upon themselves to instruct the public, not from the fulness of their knowledge, but either as a pecu- niary resource, or to gratify an idle whim. Need it be wondered at, while we possess in England a greater abundance of all kinds of food, generally of far better quality than is to be found elsewhere, that our cookery in theory and practice has become a by-word of ridicule, and that we should be compelled to have recourse to foreigners, ignorant for the most part of our tastes and habits, to prepare our feasts ? “They manage these things better in France :’’ cookery is there con- sidered as an important art, and its successful endeavours are regarded with a due appreciation. In Paris its great professors have achieved an almost historical celebrity, and their school of cookery has become pre-eminent. This can only be attributed to their assiduous study of its elementary principles, which, when properly understood, will be found to conjoin the highest enjoyment with due attention to the preservation of health. The palate is as capable and nearly as worthy of education as the eye and the ear. A large proportion of the dishes contained in this work are quite new to the public, not merely as regards their names, but as respects their composition. This will be found to be the case particularly with the Soups, dressed Fish, Removes, Entrées, Hors-d’ceuvres, and dressed Vegetables. The second course, moreover, is treated at greater length, and with more care than has hitherto been the case in English Cookery Books. A copious and varied collection of Bills of Fare, adapted to every season of the year has been added as an essential accompaniment to Si - =... = 9 aS >. 2 , hes - oar “4 PREFACE. | 1x the work. In connertion with this subject, the Author ventures to offer a few suggestions for the consideration of Epicures. In the first place, the English custom of dividing a grand dinner into several courses is an error quite at variance with common sense and convenience. It is a needless complication that necessarily leads to useless profusion, and much additional trouble. Our neighbours across the channel—the best authorities in all gastronomic questions —allow of two courses only in the largest dinners. With them, Fish and Hors-d’ceuvres,—such as patties, croquettes, &c., form part of the First Course, and not a distinct course, as they are considered east of Temple Bar. The French, too, regard the dessert as a mere delasse- ment after dinner, intended rather to propitiate than to thwart digestion. | | The great and increasing intercourse between this country and the Continent, as well as the probable relaxation of the duty on foreign wines, will tend naturally to extend our use of many kinds especially appropriate to the dinner-table. On this head, the Author, without pretending to give any elaborate or detailed instructions respecting the service of wines at dinner, cannot refrain from alluding to an injudicious habit, frequently adopted at English tables—that of in- troducing sweet Champagne in the First Course. This wine, from its sweetness, naturally counteracts the favour of savoury dishes—there is a mutual repulsion between them. Madeira, Sherry, and Burgundy are better suited to the First Course ; their stimulating and generous qualities tending considerably to assist digestion. In France, sweet Champagne is not introduced until the latter part of the Second Course: by that time, the palate has become more fit to appreciate the delicate bouquet of this delicious and exhilarating beverage. The Author begs further to add, that the ordinary practice in Lon- don of serving Turtle and Venison indiscriminately, as mere acces- sories to recherché dinners, is, in his opinion, most injudicious. Turtle aud Venison being generally reckoned by us as the best of good cheer, it follows that when they form part of a dinner, the Removes. and Entrées are comparatively neglected. Very light Entrées should only be served with these ; and on such occasions, indeed, it would be pre- ferable to arrange the dinner in the Russian fashion—placing the desert upon the table at first, while the whole of the dinner is served from the side tables. By this means, two advantages are gained: a less number of dishes is required—especially in the First Course ; and the dinner has a better chance of being served hot—an indispensable &: : PREFACE. requisite to its due enjoyment. In pursuance of this recommendation, a series of Bills of Fare, after the Russian mode, has been included with the others. A copious Index, together with a Glossary of French ferms, wil it is hoped, augment the utility of the work. The Author hopes he shall be excused for alluding to himself, and ~ his pretensions for writing a book of this kind. Although bearing a foreign name, he is happy in being an Englishman. He received his professional education in Paris, and acquired a knowledge of his art in some of the most celebrated cuisines of that capital, and was so fortunate as to become a pupil of the renowned Caréme. Qualified under such favourable auspices, he has subsequently served—he hopes with satisfaction to his patrons—some of the most distinguished bons vivants among the British aristocracy and gentry. He has had the good fortune to be Chef-de-cuisine to the Earl of Chesterfield; Lord tinnaird; and to Sir W. Massey Stanley, Bart., and Rowland Errington, Esq., at Melton Mowbray ; and he shall ever consider it the greatest honour to which he could aspire to have served as Chief Cook and Maitre-d’ Hétel to Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Lonvonr : 2lst February 1846. CONTENTS. - GLOSSARY. Common Srocok anD Stock Sauces. GRAND Sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, and Allemande. SPECIAL SAUCES. Coup Savces. PUREES OF VEGETABLES for garnishing. VEGETABLE GARNISHES. EssENcES, GRAVIES, AND PREPARED Savoury Burrers for finishing Sauces. RaGovuts AND GARNISHEs in general. BroTus AND CoNSOMMES. Mevicinat Do, Braizes, Portes, Mireporx, MaRiNaDES, AND Roux. QUENELLE ForceMEATS. CLEAR ConsoMME Sovrs, PUREES OF VEGETABLES for Soups. Sours MADE wiTH Rick on PEARL-BARLEY. Bisques or CRAYFISH, AND OTHER SHELLFISH Sours, Fiso Sours AND WATER-SOUCHETS, ENcuisx Sours. ForeIcn NATIONAL Sours. ITALIAN Soups. PANADAS AND LIGHT Soups for Infants, &c. DRESSED FIsH. Removrs—Beef. Veal. Lamb. Calves’-heads. Ox-cheek. Pork and Sucking- pig. Braized Hams, Venison, Red-deer, &c. Turkeys and Capons, Chickens, Goose and Cygnets. Pheasants. Partridges. Meat-pies. Meat-puddings. Black Game and Grouse. ENTREES—Patés chauds, or raised Pies. Vol-au-vents and Tourtes. Timbales. Macaroni and Casseroles. _ Ornamental borders of Potato-paste. Char- treuses of Vegetables. Forcemeat Chartreuses. Ornamental créustades. Turbans and Mazarines, Beef. Ox-cheek dressed. Ox-palates, Ox- piths. Ox-tongues, Mutton. futton Cutlets.. Scollops. Carbonades. Fillets, Sheep’s Tongues. Sheep’s Heads and Kidneys. Veal. Frican- deaux, Noix, &c. Heart and throat Sweetbreads. Calf’s-ears, feet, liver, and brains. Jamb. Lamb’s-head, ears, and feet. Pork. Venison, Roebuck xii CONTENTS. and Poultry. Quenelle forcemeat of Fowl. Pigeons and Ducklings, Quails. Larks, Rahbits. Hares. Pheasants. Partridges. Boudins, Quenelles, aud Soufflées of Partridges. Woodcocks and Snipes. Wild-fowl. Ortolans and Wheatears. Dressed fish. Srconp CoursE Roasts,—Game, Poultry, Wild-fuwl, &c. VEGETABLES FOR ENTREMETS. ENTKEMETS OF Eccs, Macaroni, &e. Cop ENTREES FOR BAauu Suppers, &3 Coup Raisep PIES AND PRESERVED GAME. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. VOL-AU-VENT AND TouRTE CaSEs. Cr6USTADE AND TIMBALE CASES CAKES IN GENERAL. SMALL Pastry. FRITTERS, Icrp PuppInés AND ORNAMENTED ENTREMETS. TIMBALES AND CakEs or MACARONI, NovurLues, &o. SOUFFLES. PUDDINGS. JELLIES. CREAMS. MINCEMEATS, Bins or Fare, INDEX. GLOSSARY. ALIEEMANDE, Reduced, or concentrated white velouté Sauce, thickened with cream aud yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and Jemon-juice. ANGELICA is a plant, the tender tubular branches of which, after being preserved in syrup, are used for the purpose of decorating entreméts, &c. Baga, a kind of very light plum-cake. RECHAMEL is velouté Sauce boiled down with cream in equal parts. This Sauce takes its name from a celebrated cook. BrsquE. A Soup generally made with shell-fish. Bianca. To parboil: to scald, vegetables, &c., in order to remove their hulls or skins, such as almonds, &c. Boupin. A delicate kind of entrée, prepared with quenelle force-meat or mince. Bouquet (garnished), or faggot, consists of a handful of parsley, six green onions, a small bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, neatly tied together with twine. BRAIZE, MIREPOIX, MARINADE, POELE, BLANC, are various kinds of compounds used for imparting flavour to braized meats; and also for keeping Calves’- Heads, Poultry, &c., white, while they are being braized. BraIZzinG signifies a slow process of simmering, or stewing over a smothered charcoal-fire. Briocne. A species of light spongy cake, resembling Bath-buns. CaraMEL. Burnt sugar, occasionally used as a make-shift for colouring. CHARLOTTE consists generally of very thin slices of bread, steeped in clarified butter, and placed in symmetrical order in a plain mould garnished with fruit or preserve. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. A mixed preparation, consisting of vegetables symmetrically and tastefully arranged in a plain mould, the interior of which is garnished with either game, quails, pigeons, larks, fillets, scollops, tendons, &e. CHARTREUSE A LA PaRIsIENNE, &c. An ornamental entree or side-dish, composed chiefly of quenelle force-meat; the interior being garnished with ragouts, scol- lops, &e. ; Compote generally means confectioned fruits, preserved in syrup, or apple and any other kind of fruit jelly ; this word is also used to designate certain sa- voury dishes prepared with pigeons, quails, or larks, mixcd with peas, or mush- rooms, &c. Consomme. Clear strong broth, much used in the preparation of Soups, Sauces, &e. ConTisE. When small scollops of truffles, red tongue, &c., are inlaid, as orna- ments by incision, in fillets of any kind, they are said to be contisés. CROQUETTES AND RissoLtes. A preparation of mince, with a bread-crumbed coat- ing. These words both signify something crisp. Croguantes. A bright mixture of fruit and boiled sugar CrousTaDEs, PATES-CHAUDS, TouRTES, TIMBALES, CassEROLES oF Rice. Various ornamental pie-cases, made either of paste or prepared rice. X1V GLOSSARY Crovtons. Sippets of bread of various sizes and shapes, fried in clarified butter, and used to garnish salmis, fricassées, dressed vegetables, &c.; they are also served with certain Soups, chiefly with purees. Cop Entrees. These consist of fricassées, salmis, cutlets, ham, tongue, fillets of game, poultry, and fish, aspics, salads of poultry, fish, or shell-fish ; Boars’-heads, potted meats, &e. They are appropriate for ball suppers, public breakfasts, and - upon all occasions where a cold collation is served. Enrrers. A conventional term for Side-Dishes, comprising cutlets, fricassées, fricandeaux, fillets, scollops, salmis, boudins, sweetbreads, pdtés-chuuds, char- treuses, &e. ENTREMETs, or second-course side-dishes, consist of four distinct sorts, namely, cold entrées; dressed vegetables; scolloped shell-fish and dressed eggs; and lastiy, of the infinitely varied class of sweets, consisting of puddings, gateaua, timbales, sweet croquettes, charlottes, eroquantes, pastries, jellies, creams, fritters &e. EsPAGNOLE AND VELouTE. The two main Sauces from which all others are made; the first is brown aud the other white, ) FANCHONETTES AND FLORENTINES. Varieties of small pastry meringued over. Farce. Is a coarse kind of forcemeat used for raised pies and gratins, FLANS, DaRIoLES, AND MiruiTons. Varieties of French cheese-cakes. FRICANDEAU AND GRENADINS consist of the primest parts of veal, or fillets of poultry, &c., smoothly trimmed, larded, and brightly glazed with a concentratio.1 of their own liquor; they are served as side-dishes. FRICASSEE consists of chickens cut in pieces, and prepared in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, cocks’-combs, &c., as accessories. Gaurrres. A light spungy sort of biscuit. Guace. Anything iced. This word is also sometimes used figuratively, by French cooks, to signify a smooth glossy surface. . Gratins. A term applied to consolidated soups and sauces; also to certain dishes of high character, consisting of game, poultry, fish, vegetables, or macaroni, &c., improved by great care and finish, through the use of concentrated sauces or gravies. Hors-D’auvreEs (Hot). A species of very light entrées, such as patties of all kinds, rissoles, croquettes, scolloped fish, shell-fish, macaroni, poultry, game, sweetbreads, brains, ox-piths, horlys of fish, poultry, or game, &c. Hors-p’@uvres (Cold), These should be eaten immediately after the soup and fish ; they are considered as appetisers, or whets to the appetite, and consist of sardines, anchovies, tunny, Dutch herrings, savoury butters, oysters, oiled salads. JARDINIERE. A mixed preparation of vegetables, stewed down in their own sauce. Lutinc. A paste made of flower and water, and used for fastening the lids on to fire-pans when preserving game, &c., in order to prevent evaporation. Macevorne of vegetables is a jardinitre, with the addition of some kind of white sauce. Maceporne of fruit. i * Whenever the term ladleful occurs in the course of this work it refers to a bowl.- shaped spoon, capable of holding about a pint, + Note. The finest Gorgons anchovies are imported by CROSSE and BLACKWELL, Soho Square, 42 ESSENCES AND GRAVIES. 182. LOBSTER BUTTER. Procure some lobster spawn or coral, and pound it with twice as much butter, one anchovy, and a little cayenne pepper; rub it through a hair-sieve, collect it into a small basin, and keep it in a cool place till wanted for use. 183. MONTPELLIER BUTTER. BiancH some tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and parsley, a handful of each; expunge the water, and pound them with the yolks of six boiled eggs, six cleaned anchovies, two tablespoonfuls of French capers, and half a dozen green gherkins ; when these ingre- dients are thoroughly pounded together, mix in six ounces of fresh butter, then add, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon-vinegar, and six of salad-oil; season with pepper and salt; rub the butter thus prepared through a sieve or tammy, colour it with some spinach-green, and keep it in a basin on the ice till wanted for use. 184, CRAYFISH BUTTER. Remove the shells from three or four dozen crayfish, place them on a baking-sheet in the oven to dry; let the shells cool, and then pound them in a mortar, with a little lobster coral and four ounces of fresh butter; thoroughly bruise the whole well together, so as to form them into a kind of paste, put this into a stewpan, and then set it on the stove-fire to simmer for about five minutes; then rub it through a tammy with considerable pressure into a basin contain- ing some cold water, with a piece of ice in it; as soon as the coloured crayfish butter is become set, through the coldness of the water, take it out, and put it into a small basin in a cool place till wanted for use. 185. GREEN RAVIGOTTE BUTTER. Buancu a handful of tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and parsley ; press them in a napkin, and pound them with four ounces of fresh butter, cayenne pepper and salt; rub the butter through a hair-sieve, and keep it on the ice in a small basin for use. 186. EPICUREAN BUTTER FOR THE TABLE. Pounp four cleaned anchovies, a few chives, a good teaspoonful of green tarragon-leaves, four green West India gherkins, two boiled yolks of eggs, three ounces of butter, and a good teaspoonful of French mustard; mix thoroughly, season with little salt, and rub the butter through a hair-sieve; gather it up into a small basin, make it sufficiently firm by keeping it on the ice, and mould it into Sr for the purpose of being sent to table to be served with the eese 43 RAGOUTS AND GARNISHES IN GENERAL, COMPRISING Toulouse ragout. Ragout of soft roes of mackerel. Financiére do. Cardinal ragout. Calf’s head do. ad la Tovtué. Ragout of scollops of soles. Chipolata do. Do. of salmon or trout. Strasbourg do. of fat livers. Parisian vagout. Périgueux do. Ragout of scollops of game, &c. Matelotte do. Do. of larks, Do. Normande do. Do. of cock’s kernels, a la Soubise. Bourguignotte do. Richelieu ragout. Crayfish do. Ragout of chicken’s wings. Rouénaise do. Do. of ox palates. Ragout of scollops of sweetbreads. Do. of sheep’s tongues, a U'écarlate. Regent’s ragouwt. 187. TOULOUSE RAGOUT. PREPARE some fine large white cocks’ combs and kernels, button mushrooms, small scollops of sweetbreads, and a proportionate quantity of truffles turned in the shape of scollops or olives; place these in a small stewpan, and add thereto a small ladleful of Alle- mande or Supréme sauce, toss the whole together over the fire a few minutes, it will be then ready for use. 188. FINANCIERE RAGOUT. PLACE in a stewpan a similar ragout to the foregoing, with an equal portion of small quenelles, and add a small ladleful of well-finished Financiére sauce; allow the whole to boil slightly on the fire. Use this ragout for garnishing the remove or entrée, as the case may be. 189. CALF’S HEAD RAGOUT A LA TORTUE. Pura large gravy-spoonful of fine white cocks’ combs into a bain- marie or stewpan, a similar quantity of cocks’ kernels, small truffles, button mushrooms, quenelles, and green gherkins, cut into the shape of olives; to these add a sufficient quantity of Turtle sauce (No. 9) for the purpose, and set the whole on the fire to boil for a minute or two, and serve. 190. CHIPOLATA RAGOUT, Twist one pound of pork sausages into small round balls, sepa- rate these, fry them, and when they are cold, trim and put them into a, bain-marie, containing a proportionate quantity of cocks’ combs and kernels, button mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, carrots, and turnips turned in the shape of olives, and boiled down in their own glaze, also some round balls of braized streaky bacon, and an equal pro- portion of chestnuts, pealed and boiled in consommé; add a ladleful of Financiére sauce (No. 8), a little essence of truffles and mushrooms ; then set the ragout on the fire to boil for two minutes, and serve, Note.—The above is the simplest mode for preparing this ragout ; it is far better, however, that the whole of the ingredients of which this very rich and popular ragout is composed should be kept sepa- 440°) RAGOUTS. rately in small stewpans, and be placed alternately in groups about the dish they are meant to garnish and ornament; then the boiling sauce should be poured over the turkey, capon, or poulards, when ready to serve. 191. STRASBOURG RAGOUT OF FAT LIVERS. Brarze a fat liver in some mirepoix (No. 236), take it out to cool, cut it into scollops, and trim them neatly; put them into a small stewpan with some of the mirepoia freed from every particle of fat, add a proportionate quantity of scolloped truffles, and just before using these, set them on the stove and boil them down to a glaze ; add a sufficient quantity of Financiere sauce, and serve. 192. PERIGUEUX RAGOUT. PREPARE some scollops of fat livers and truffles, as for the fore- going ragout; to these add some small quenelles, cocks’ combs and kernels, and some button mushrooms; then add a ladleful of Périgueux sauce (No. 23), and boil the whole together for two or three minutes. 193. MATELOTTE RAGOUT. Pret and blanch half a pint of button onions, fry them of a light- brown colour over a slow fire; when done, drain them on to a sieve, in order to free them from the butter, and place them in a bain-marie with an equal quantity of white button mushrooms, crayfish tails, and small quenelles of whiting; to these add a ladleful of Matelotte sauce (No. 31), and after allowing the ragout to boil for two or three minutes, use it for garnishing the Matelotte, or any other dressed coloured fish it is intended for. 194. MATELOTTE NORMANDE RAGOUT. Prepare thirty crayfish tails, and place them in a stewpan with about half a pint of muscles, three dozen of parboiled oysters, and an equal proportion of white button mushrooms; to these add a ladleful of Matelotte Normande sauce (No. 32), allow the whole to boil up a minute or two on the stove, and use the ragout to garnish soles or other fish for which it is prepared. 195. BOURGUIGNOTTE RAGOUT., Peer and blanch half a pint of small button onions, put them into a stewpan with a lump of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and a pat of butter, moisten with half.a pint of good broth, and set the onions to stew gently on a moderate fire; when nearly done, boil them down to a glaze, and add them to an equal quantity of white button mushrooms and very small quenelles; to these put sufficient Bourguignotte sauce (No. 28) for the purpose required ; allow the ragout to boil up on the stove fire for a minute or two, and use it to garnish the entrée it may be intended for. 196. CRAYFISH RAGOUT. Tare out and trim the tails of thirty crayfish; with the bodies and shells make some crayfish butter (No. 184), to be used in colour- ing some quenelles of whitings, afterwards moulded with teaspoons, poached, and placed with the crayfish; to these add some Allemande RAGOUTS. 45 or Supréme sauce, with which mix in a little of the butter made with the shells of the crayfish, and serve the ragout with the dish it is meant for. 197. ROUENAISE RAGOUT. PREPARE an equal proportion of the following shell-fish—oysters, muscles, and shrimps; to these add some button mushrooms and quenelles of lobster, and moisten the rayout with a sauce made in the following manner: reduce some of the liquor of the muscles, oysters, and mushrooms, with two glasses of French white wine, and the addition of a small ladleful of Velowté sauce; finish by mixing in four yolks of eggs, a pat of butter, and a little cream: stir the sauce on the stove-fire till it boils, and then pass it through a tammy on to the ragout. Before sending to table, add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and the juice of half a lemon. About a dozen smelts, trussed in the same manner as whitings for frying, and boiled in a little salt and water, and afterwards skinned and glazed, should be prepared to garnish round the fish with which the Rouénaise ragout is served. 198. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS. First blanch, and then braize, a little white broth, three or more throat sweetbreads, for about twenty minutes ; then take them up on a plate, and allow them to cool; cut them into neat scollops and place them in a small stewpan with a small ladleful of any sort of sauce appropriate to the entrée which this ragout is intended to garnish. A similar kind of ragout may be prepared with lambs’ sweetbreads, calf’s, sheep’s, or lamb’s brains. 199. RAGOUT OF SOFT ROES OF MACKEREL OR OTHER FISH. Parsort the soft roes of six mackerel or carp, in a little boiling water mixed with two spoonfuls of French vinegar and a little salt; drain them on a napkin, and put them into a sauta-pan containing some Allemande or Supréme sauce; add some chopped and blanched parsley, and a little nutmeg and lemon-juice; toss the whole gently together over the fire, taking care not to break or bruise the roes, and place them in the centre of the fillets of fish prepared to receive them. 200. CARDINAL RAGOUT. PREPARE two dozen small quenelles of lobster, which place in a stewpan, with thirty picked and trimmed prawns’ tails, two dozen button mushrooms, and a similar quantity of small round truffles ; to these add a sufficient quantity of cardinal sauce for the remove or entrée; then boil the ragouwt for three minutes on the fire, when it will be ready for use. 201. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SOLES, ETC. Fittet two pairs of soles, or a proportionate quantity of any other sort of fish, place them in a sauta-pan with some clarified butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; cover them with a round of buttered paper, and set them in the oven jor about ten minutes; when they are done, drain them on a napkin and afterwards place them on a 46 RAGOUTS, dish to be put in the larder to cool; next cut them into neatly trimmed scollops, and put these into a stewpan; add either some Allemande, Béchamel, Supréme, or Dutch sauce, whichever is most suit: able for the kind of fish these scollops are intended to garnish. 202. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SALMON OR TROUT. TuEsE scollops should be prepared in every respect in the same manner as the foregoing, except that, previously to adding the sauce, a little lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice should be mixed in. 203. PARISIAN RAGOUT. An equal quantity of trimmed crayfish tails, button mushrooms, small round truffles, and cocks’ kernels should be put into a stewpan containing some Parisian sauce (No. 40); make the ragout hot previ- ously to using it. 204. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF POULTRY OR GAME. FIniet one or more heads of poultry or game, according to the quantity of ragout required; trim, and place them in a sauta-pan with a little clarified fresh butter, season with a little salt, cover them with a buttered paper, and set them over a moderate fire to simmer ; as soon as they become firm and white on the under side, turn them over that they may be effectually done through, taking care that they do not become brown; then drain them on a napkin, and cut them on the slant into scollops, trim them neatly, and put them into a stewpan with some Allemande, Béchamel, or Supréme sauce, previously reduced with either an essence of fowl or game, as the case may be, according to the nature of the scollops, whether of poultry or game, 205. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF LARKS, Cut out, trim, and slightly simmer, in a little butter, the fillets of two dozen larks; drain them on a napkin, and place them in a small stewpan, with a sauce made as follows: Fry the carcasses of the larks in a stewpan, with a pat of butter, one shalot, half a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, a little salt and grated nutmeg; when they are of a light-brown colour, moisten with three glasses of French white wine ; allow the carcasses to stew gently on a moderate fire for half an hour; pound the whole the whole thoroughly, and rub it through a tammy into a purée; take this up into a small stewpan, add a little reduced brown sauce, and pour it on to the scollops; warm them with care, for if they be allowed to boil, it will spoil the look of the purée, and render it rough. 206. RAGOUT OF COCKS’ KERNELS A LA SOUBISE. Por about half a pound of cocks’ kernels, with cold water, into a stewpan, let it stand by the side of a slow fire to remove the little blood they contain, taking care that the water does not become too warm; as soon as they whiten, drain them on a sieve, and put them into a small stewpan, with a pat of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt, toss them over the fire for two or three minutes, moisten with a little white chicken broth, and set them to simmer gently on a slow fire for about ten minutes longer; they will be then done Drain them on a napkin, put them into a small stewpan, with a RAGOUTS. . 47 ragout-spoonful of Sowbise sauce and a little Allemande sauce, toss them gently over the fire till they are hot, and place them in the centre of an entrée of fillets of fowl a la Maréchale, a la D’Uczelles. 207. RICHELIEU RAGOUT. PREPARE Some quenelle force-meat of chicken, and before noulding . the quenelles, incorporate with it two spoonfuls of brown purée of onions (of which there must be prepared a sufficient quantity for the sauce of the ragout): mould two dozen small quenelies, poach them, and, after draining them on a napkin, put them into a small stewpan, with a dozen white cocks’ combs and a few scollops of fa. livers; to these add the remainder of the brown purée of onions, which must be no thicker than sauce. = This ragout may be used for garnishing boudins a la Richelieu, or any entrées of poultry or game that are bread-crumbed and broiled. 208. RAGOUT OF CHICKEN’S WINGS. Tuts ragout is only to be recommended when it happens that a number of fowls or chickens have to be cut up for other purposes ; in such case, save the wings, which cut off close to the breast, bone them neatly, without tearing or cutting the skin, and fill up the cavity occasioned by taking the bone out with some quenelle force- meat of fowl; shape them neatly and parboil them, immerse them in cold water, then drain and trim them. Line a stewpan with thin layers of fat bacon, place the wings therein with a faggot of parsley, thyme, a bay-leaf, and an onion; moisten with white broth, cover them with a round of buttered paper, and set them to boil gently by the side of the stove for about twenty minutes, when, if the fowls are young, the wings will be done. Then drain the wings on a napkin, and, when trimmed, put them into a small stewpan with some Allemande sauce. This ragout is more generally made use of for filling vol-au-vents, casseroles of rice, and chartreuses; it is also useful, as an accessory, for garnishing large removes. 209. RAGOUT OF OX-PALATES. STEEP six ox-palates in water for several hours, keeping the vessel that contains them near the stove-fire, so that the water may become gradually tepid, which materially helps to cleanse them; then scald and scrape them clean, trim, wash, and set them to braize in some blane or poéle (No. 230); about four hours will suffice. When the palates are done, drain and put them in press between two dishes; when cold, shape them out with a round cutter an inch in diameter, and place them in a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of either of the following sauces: Allemande, Béchamel, Supréme, Italiene, Finan- ciére, Poiwrade, or Tomata. This ragout is strictly appropriate only for garnishing patés-chauds and vol-au-vents, but it may, in cases of emer- gency, be served as an entrée, garnished round with croquettes of po- tatoes or fleurons of pastry. 910. RAGOUT OF SHEEP’S TONGUES A L’ECARLATE. Bor and press eight sheep’s tongues that have been cured with saltpetre; trim and cut them into round scollops, and then put these 48 BROTHS scollops into a small stewpan, with any kind of sauce that may be suitable for the entrée they are meant to garnish. 911. REGENT’S RAGOUT. FILuet an eel, cut it into scollops, and simmer these in a stewpan with a little butter, chopped parsley, lemon-juice, pepper, and salt ; when done, drain the scollops on a napkin, and then put them into a stewpan containing an equal proportion of white button mushrooms, cocks’ combs, small round truffles, and small quenelles of whiting co- loured with lobster coral; to these add a small ladleful of Regency sauce (No. 49), then allow the ragout to boil up on the stove-fire, and use it for garnishing the dressed fish it is intended for. BROTHS AND CONSOMMES IN GENERAL, FOR SOUPS, &e., COMPRISING Nuitritive Soup. White Consommé of fowls. Empotage, or Consommé for soups in ge- is x pheasants or part- neral. ridges. Brown Consommé of fowls. Brown extract of larks, &c. ; is pheasants or part- - ry hare or rabbit. ridges. Common gravy. - . rabbits. Llond of veal, or veal gravy. 212. NUTRITIVE SOUP. Into a three-gallon stockpot, put a knuckle of veal, six pounds of the shoulder part of beef (commonly called the gravy-piece), and a bone of roast beef or mutton. Fill the stockpot with cold water to within two inches of the brim, and set it upon a stove-fire to boil, taking care not to hurry its ebullition, but allow it to take place gently, so that it may have time to throw up its skum; this should be removed, as it rises to the surface, and a little cold water should be thrown in occasionally to effect that purpose. When the stock has thrown off all its skum, which will easily be perceived by the water becoming clear again, lift it off the stove, and put it by the side. Then proceed to garnish it with four leeks and two heads of celery, trimmed and tied together, two good-sized carrots, two turnips, and two onions, into each of which two cloves have been inserted ; add one good tablespoonful of salt, and let the whole boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour. During this time, an old hen and a partridge should be partially roasted, and then put into the stock; this should continue to boil during five hours unremittingly : care being taken that the stockpot be kept full. Previously to the soup being served, take off every particle of fat that appears on the surface, with a ladle; take out the vegetables— carefully placing them on a napkin, then remove the fowl and the partridge from the stock: these operations should be so managed as not to disturb the brightness of the broth. Cut the fillets of the fowl and the partridge into slices, and place them in the soup-tureeu a wv Pet | AND CONSOMMES. 49 and upon these put some of the vegetables (which have been drained on the napkin) neatly cut with a vegetable cutter a quarter of an inch in diameter; then pour in the broth, to which add a little brown con- sommé of veal to give it colour. Let it be sufficiently seasoned with salt, and a few grains of minionette pepper, then serve. 213. EMPOTAGEH, OR CONSOMME FOR SOUPS IN GENERAL. WHEN preparing for company, take about thirty pounds of gravy beef, and a similar quantity of knuckles of veal, together with four wild rabbits, and put the whole into a large stockpot which has been previously spread with butter, add common broth in sufficient quan- tity so as nearly to cover the meat. Put the stockpot on the stove- fire to boil until the broth is reduced to a light-coloured glaze; then fill it up with the remainder of the grand stock, and after it has boiled and been skizamed, garnish it with carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, and celery; add also two blades of mace and six cloves. In all cases be sparing of salt, especially in the first stages of prepara- ‘tion. Allow the broth to boil gently on the side of the stove for six hours, and then pass it into kitchen-pans for further use. In connection with this subject, I may here point out that, if it be contemplated to have as one of the removes a piece of beef braized, a saving of provision may be effected, by using in the first instance, instead of about thirty pounds of stock beef, only ten pounds of that quality in preparing the grand stock; the deficiency being made up by twenty pounds of sirloin. This latter must be boned, and the fillet taken out, either to be used to ornament the remove or for an entrée, AS occasion may require; the meat must then be rolled up tightly and strung round in the manner of Hambro’ beef. This will thus answer the double purpose of giving strength to the consommé, and of serving afterwards as a remove. When the beef thus prepared has boiled gently in the stockpot for about five hours, take it out and put it in press between two dishes till wanted ; it must be then trimmed, and placed in a long braizing- pan with a little good stock to warm it in; glaze it nicely, and having dished it up, garnish the remove with such vegetables as have been prepared for the purpose. 214. CONSOMME OF FOWLS FOR SOUPS. Take two or more fowls, according to the quantity of broth re- quired; roast them before a brisk fire until half done; and then put them into a small well-tinned stockpot, nearly filled up with water, and place this on the fire to boil; skim the consommé, and then add one good-sized carrot, two turnips, one onion, one head of celery, two cloves, a small piece of mace, and a little salt. Set the stock on the side of the stove to boil gently for about two hours, and then strain it off for use. This kind of consommé is admirably adapted for persons of delicate health as a restorative. It is also very serviceable in imparting dell- cacy of flavour to all clear soups. 215. BROWN CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES. Roast off two pheasants, after having taken out the fillets for the purpose of making them into an entrée, or four partridges may be E 50 | _ BROTHS used (removing the fillets in the same way); put them into a stockpot with a small knuckle of veal, and about one pound of lean of ham; fill up with water, then set it to boil on the stove-fire. Meanwhile slice up a carrot, an onion, two turnips, a head of celery, and a leek; fry these roots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, till they become slightly browned, then throw them into the consommé after having previously well skimmed it. Add three cloves, a piece of mace, and a little salt; let it boil gently about three hours, and then strain it off for use. | ‘his preparation will serve for all kinds of clear consommé soups, such as aw Chasseur or a la Désclignac, &e. 216. BROWN CONSOMME OF RABBITS. Take three or four wild rabbits, cut them up in pieces, and put them into asmall stockpot with five pounds of knuckle of veal which has been roasted enough to colour it; fill up with light broth or water, then set it on the stove to boil, skim it well, and garnish with carrot, onion, and celery, two cloves, a piece of mace, and a little salt. Let this boil gently for three hours, and then strain it off for use. This consommé is very essential in clarifying H’spagnole or brown sauce, and is also serviceable for all soups in which quenelles of game are served. 217. WHITE CONSOMME OF FOWIS. TAKE two or more old hens or fowis; or, in their stead, the carcasses of fowls, or any other sort of poultry you may have. Let them steep in cold water to cleanse them from any blood they may contain ; then drain and put them into an appropriate-sized stockpot or stew- pan, and fill it up with common broth or water; garnish with celery, onions, turnips, carrots, and leeks. Set it to boil gently by the fire for two hours, if made with carcasses, but if old hens are used, it will require at least an hour longer. When done, skim off the fat — and pass the consommé through a napkin into a basin for use. This consommé may be considered as the proper basis of all white soups, and is most useful in clarifying and flavouring all white sauces. 218. WHITE CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES. — THE same process is to be followed in making this consommé, as the foregoing, substituting, of course, game for poultry. This consommé, after being partially reduced to glaze, is used for the purpose of imparting the flavour of game to any white sauce, such as Supréme, Allemande, Béchamel*, Velouté, or white Italian sauce. It is also useful for mixing white purées of game. 219. BROWN EXTRACT OF LARKS OR QUAILS. Arter having filleted the larks or quails, and removed the gizzards from the trail of the larks, put a stewpan on the fire with an ounce of fresh butter in it; when the butter begins to fritter, put the bones or earcasses of larks or quails into the stewpan and fry them brown. Then add half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two shalots, and two * So called after the celebrated cook Béchamel, who lived in the reign of Louis XIV, a | ‘ 4 AND CONSOMMES. ‘51 glasses of sherry or Madeira. Let these simmer gently for five minutes, after which add one quart of common broth. Allow the extract to boil slowly by the side of the fire for three-quarters of an hour, pass it through a lawn sieve into a basin, and reserve it for working the sauces intended for gratins of quails or larks, and also for fumet sauces for pdatés-chauds of either of the forementioned small birds. Extract of woodcocks or snipes is obtained in a similar manner. 220. EXTRACT OF HARE OR RABBIT. Tus is made by putting the bones or carcasses of either into a stewpan with two or three glasses of any sort of white wine, a bay- leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two shalots; and then submitting it to the action of a rather slow fire, until the liquid becomes reduced to a glaze, when a quart to three pints of common broth should be added. Put it on a brisk fire to boil, skim it well, and then put it by the side of the stove to simmer gently for an hour and a half; after which time, pass it through a napkin into.a basin, and keep it for use as occasion may require. 221. COMMON GRAVY, Spreap the bottom of a middle-sized stewpan with butter, and cover it with thin slices of beef suet; place some slices of onions over this, and then add six pounds of gravy beef cut into thick slices, and any trimmings of meat there may be to spare; moisten with a quart of common broth, and set the stewpan over a brisk stove-fire to boil. When the broth is reduced to glaze, slacken the heat of the stove, by partially smothering it with ashes, and allow the gravy to acquire a deep red brown colour; then, fill the stewpan up with common broth or water, garnish with two carrots, two heads of celery, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, and, if the gravy has been filled up with water, add a spoonful of salt. Put the gravy to boil on the stove-fire, skim it thoroughly, then remove it to the side to continue gently boiling for about three hours; next, strain it through a broth-cloth into another stewpan, and proceed immediately to clarify it in the following manner: whisk up three whites of eggs with a little spring water, and after having removed all the grease from the surface of the gravy, incorporate the whites of eggs in with it; whisk it over the stove-fire until it is nearly boiling, and then set it to simmer by the side for a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a broth-cloth into a basin for use. 222. BLOND DE VEAU, OR VEAL GRAVY. Havine first well buttered a large stewpan, lay therein one pound of the lean of a York ham cut in slices, a knuckle of veal, and the under part of a leg of veal; to these add an old hen and a couple of wild rabbits. Pour three pints of common broth over the meat, &e., and after putting the cover on the stewpan, place it on the stove- fire to boil down to a glaze; then slacken the heat so that it may gradually become browned. When the glaze darkens to a deep red tinge, fill it up with common broth or water, and set it on the stove; as soon as it boils, skim it thoroughly, garnish with carrots, turnips, E 2 52 MEDICINAL BROTHS, ETC. onions, celery, three cloves, and a blade of mace; and after it has boiled gently by the side of the stove-fire for three hours, strain it through a napkin into basins for use. This consommé is used for clearing and working the grand E'spagnole sauce, for colouring clear soups, and also for finishing some of the special sauces. MEDICINAL BROTHS AND CONSOMMES FOR INVALIDS§, COMPRISING Plain chicken broth, Crayfish broth. Pectoral do. do. Decoction of snails. Mutton do. Mucilaginous chicken broth, Beef tea, 923. PLAIN CHICKEN BROTH. Cura young fowl or chicken into four parts, wash these well in cold water, and put the pieces into a stewpan with one quart of spring water, and a very little salt; set it to boil on the stove-fire, skim it well, and then add the heart of a white cabbage lettuce, and a handful of chervil; boil the broth for about an hour, and then strain it through a napkin into a basin. 924, PECTORAL CHICKEN BROTH. Cut up a young fowl into several pieces, put them into a stewpan with three pints of spring water; set it on the stove-fire to boil; skim it well, and add alittle salt. Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley, wash it in several waters, and add it to the broth—together with one ounce of marsh-mallow roots cut into shreds, for the purpose of better extracting its healing properties. The broth should then boil one hour, and be passed through a napkin into a basin, to be kept ready for use. 225. MUTTON BROTH. Taxe three pounds of the scrag-end of a neck of very fresh mutton, cut it into several pieces, wash them in cold water, and put them into a stewpan with two quarts of cold spring water; place the stewpan on the fire to boil, skim it well, and then add a couple of turnips cut into slices, a few branches of parsley, a sprig of green thyme, and a little salt. When it has boiled gently by the side of the stove for an hour and a half, skim off the fat from the surface, and then let it be strained through a lawn sieve into a basin, and kept for use. 296. BEEF TBA, Take two pounds of the lean part of the gravy piece of beef, and carefully pare away every portion of fat, skin, or sinew; cut this into small square pieces the size of anut; put the beef into a stewpan capable of containing two quarts, and pour three pints of boiling water upon it; add alittle salt, put it on the stove-fire, and as soon MEDICINAL BROTHS, ETC. 53 as it boils skim it, and then remove it to the side ot the stove, to continue boiling gently for an hour, after which the beef tea should be strained through a napkin for use 227. CRAYFISH BROTH, FOR PURIFYING THE BLOOD. Take two pounds of the lean part of very white veal, cut it into small pieces, and pound it well in a mortar; to this add three dozen crayfish and a handful of green chervil, and pound these together so as to thoroughly bruise the crayfish. ‘Then remove the whole into a stewpan, and pour upon it three pints of cold spring water; adda little salt, and place the stewpan on the stove to boil; after which set it by the side of the stove-fire, and keep it gently simmering for three-quarters of an hour; it may then be strained through a nap- kin for use. This kind of broth, in order to promote the desired effect, should be taken by the convalescent upon an empty stomach. 928. DECOCTION OF SNAILS FOR INVETERATE COUGHS. TAKE two dozen garden snails, add to these the hind quarters only of two dozen stream frogs, previously skinned; bruise them together in a mortar, after which put them into a stewpan with a couple of turnips chopped small, a little salt, a quarter of an ounce of hay saffron, and three pints of spring water. Stir these on the fire until the broth begins to boil, then skim it well, and set it by the side of the fire to simmer for half an hour; after which, it should be strained by pressure through a tammy-cloth into a basin for use. This broth, from its soothing qualities, often counteracts, success- fully, the straining effects of a severe cough, and alleviates more than any other culinary preparation the sufferings of the consumptive. 229. MUCILAGINOUS BROTH FOR PERSONS IN DELICATE HEALTH. Take a young fowl, cut it into several parts, and wash them thoroughly; put these into a stewpan capable of containing three quarts of water, add thereto three pounds of the lean of very white veal, a couple of turnips, one carrot, and one head of celery—the whole to be cut into small pieces; fill up the stewpan with spring water, and put it on the stove to boil, taking care to remove the skum as it rises to the surface. After the broth has thrown off the albumen of the meat in the shape of skum, add to it two ounces of Previté’s preparation of Ceylon moss, taking special care to well mix the preparation with the broth. Keep the pan gently boiling by the side of the stove-fire for one hour and a quarter; then pass the broth through a napkin into an earthen vessel, and put it by for use. This broth is nutritious and cooling, and its use in cases of sore throats will often prove beneficial 5A } BRAIZES, POELES, BRAIZES, POELES, MIREPOIX, ETC., COMPRISING Braize for general purposes. Blane or White Braize for dressing calves’ White poéle for poultry. heads. Frying batter for fillets of fish, &e , Mirepoiz, or Braize for truffles. Do. for fruit fritters. White row« for thickening sauces, Boiled Marinade, or pickle. Brawn roux for do. Cold Marinade. 230. BRAIZE FOR GENERAL PURPOSES. Take two pounds of fillet of veal, one pound of fat Yorkshire ham, | two heads of celery, and the same number of onions and carrots; cut all these into small square pieces, add a bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, one clove of garlic, two blades of mace, and a dozen cloves; throw these ingredients into a middle-sized stewpan in which has been melted down a pound of fresh butter; put the stewpan on the stove-fire, stir- ring its contents frequently with a wooden spoon, while the vegetables, &e., are frying. When this mixture becomes slightly browned, pour into the pan half a pint of Cognac brandy, allow it to simmer for five minutes, and then add three quarts of common broth. Keep the braize gently boiling for an hour and a half, then strain it off through a tammy cloth (using considerable pressure) into a kitchen-pan, and put it away in the larder, to be used for purposes that will be here- after explained. 231. WHITE POELE FOR POULTRY. Cur into dice-shaped pieces two pounds of beef suet, an equal quantity of veal, and the same kind of vegetables, &c., as described in the above-mentioned braize ; to these add the pulp of two lemons, removing the pips; put these ingredients into a middle-sized stew- pan with half a pound of butter, and stir them on a slow fire until the suet is quite melted; then add three quarts of common broth, and keep the poéle gently boiling for an hour; it should then be passed through a sieve into an earthen pan, and reserved for the purpose of braizing poultry in. Note.—The two foregoing preparations, although very desirable in imparting a rich succulent flavour to poultry, game, &c., are neverthe- less to be regarded rather as luxurious than essential. Good white or brown stock, as the case may require, can be used as economical substitutes. 232. FRYING BATTER FOR FILLETS OF FISH, POULTRY, GAME, ETC., A LA HORLY, OR A LA ROYALE. Pour into a two-quart basin three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, a little salt, two yolks of eggs, and two ounces of fresh butter previously melted in a small stewpan; to these add gradually about half a pint of tepid water, and stir the whole together with a wooden spoon until the butter has acquired the consistency and appearance of rich-looking double cream ; it may then be put aside in the larder until within half an hour of its being wanted, when the whites of MIREPOIX, MARINADES, ETC. . 55 two eggs, well whisked into a snow-like froth, should be incorporated with it. 233. FRYING BATTER, FOR ALL SORTS OF FRUIT FRITTERS. Pur into a basin three-quarters of a pound of sifted. flour, three ounces of fresh butter (melted), one wine-glassful of Curagoa, and a very little salt; mix these gently together with a wooden spoon, gradually pouring into the basin about half a pint of bitter ale. When the batter becomes mixed to the thickness of double cream, set it aside while you whisk the whites of three eggs into a substantial froth, and instantly incorporate this with it. Many prefer such fritters as pineapple, peach, apricot or plum, fried with a plainer kind of batter, in making which water is substi- tuted for ale. 234, BOILED MARINADE. Cur into slices, and put into a stewpan, four carrots, the same number of onions, and two heads of celery, to which add parsley, four bay-leaves, thyme and sweet basil, a dozen cloves, a few blades of mace, two cloves of garlic, and one pound of raw ham (cut into small square pieces), a tablespoonful of peppercorns, and half a pound of butter. Stir these ingredients together over the fire until they become lightly browned ; then pour over them a quart of French white wine vinegar, and let the marinade boil quickly for five minutes, then add two quarts of common stock; allow the whole to boil gently for one hour; strain it off through a tammy cloth (using con- siderable pressure), into a kitchen pan, and reserve it for use. This marinade is used for the purpose of preserving larded. beef, mutton, venison, or roebuck, as well as to braize either of these in, when it is wished to dress them @ la Chévreuil or roebuck fashion. 235. COLD MARINADE, OR PICKLE. Take a large earthern vessel capable of containing whatever joint is intended to be marinaded or pickled; then cut into very thin slices or shreads, four carrots and as many onions; add to these, cloves, mace, peppercorns, thyme, bay-leaves and basil, and a handful. of salt; after having mixed all these together, pour in, according to the quantity of marinade that may be required, cold spring water and vinegar in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter; keep the pan (containing the marinade) covered with its lid in a cool place, for the purpose of pickling therein, joints of red deer, roebuck, mountain hares, fillets of mutton or beef, &c. In Scotland, this sort of marinade will prove very serviceable, especially if cooking for a shooting party, and when the larders are well supplied with moor and Highland game. . 936. BLANC OR WHITE BRAIZE FOR CALVES’ HEADS OR BARS, AND ALSO FOR LAMBS’ FEET OR EARS, Cuop one pound (more or less, as occasion may require) of beef suet, and the same quantity of fat bacon; put these into a stewpan together with a garnished* faggot of parsley, a couple of carrots and * A garnished faggot of parsley, consists of a handful of parsley, half a dozen greex onions, and a bay-leaf and sprig of thyme tied together neatly with twine. 5G | BRAIZES, ETC. onions, inserting four cloves into one of the latter; add the pulp of two lemons, a teaspoonful of whole pepper, and a little salt, place the stewpan on the stove-fire for about ten minutes, carefully stirring the ingredients the whole time, in order to prevent them from ac- quiring a brown colour ; then pour in a sufficient proportion of water to produce the quantity of blane required. Allow the blane to boil one hour, then strain it through a hair-sieve, and use it for the pur- pose intended. 937. MIREPOIX FOR BRAIZING LARDED FILLETS OF ROEBUCK, ETC. Take two pounds of veal, one pound of fat bacon, ana one pound of lean ham, four carrots, four onions, a pottle of mushraoms, six shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, some sprigs of thyme, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a teaspoonful of peppercorns ; cut these ingredients up into small square pieces, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, and fry them brown; then add a bottle of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of good broth; boil the mirepoix by the side of a stove-fire for about an hour and a half, and then strain it through a tammy (with considerable pressure, to extract all the goodness) into a basin, to be kept for such purposes as will be hereafter directed. 238. WHITE ROUX, OR THICKENING FOR SAUCES. Take some fresh butter—say one pound, put it into a stewpan on a moderate fire to clarify; skim it, and then pour it off into a thick-bottomed stewpan, care being taken that none of the milk be allowed to mix with the butter. Jill the butter up with sifted flour in sufficient quantity to form a paste requiring some strength to work it with a wooden spoon; the rowa should then be placed on a mode- rate fire, and continually stirred with the spoon until it becomes somewhat softer; then take the spoon out, wipe the sides of the stewpan, put the lid on it, and place it in a moderately-heated oven, and there let it remain for about three-quarters of an hour—taking care to stir it every ten minutes, and to watch it closely, in order to prevent the possibility of its getting burnt or coloured, an accident which would render it useless for white sauce. At the expiration of the time above-named, or before, if the roua be sufficiently done (which may be easily ascertained by its becoming thinner), it should be taken out of the oven, and put aside until wanted for use. This voww is used for thickening Velouté or white sauce. 239, BROWN ROUX, OR THICKENING FOR BROWN SAUCE. Tuts is made exactly in the same way as the white roux, with the exception that it should remain longer in the oven, to allow it to acquire a fawn or buff colour, before it is taken out. When the rou» is considered to be done, three or four shalots should be thrown in, in order to diminish the action of the heat of the copper stewpan on its contents, and for the purpose of imparting flavour to it. Lhis vou is used to thicken Espagnole or brown sauce. fi
  • 73 4 8 ae — eae A a OD NTE eaes -~. te wits BES B72 ///0/1 413. SALMON A LA REGENCE, Boit a whole salmon, remove the skin, and mask it over with strong glaze, mixed with some pounded lobster-coral; place the salmon on an oval créustade of fried bread, about three inches high, on the dish; pour round it some Regent’s sauce, finished with some anchovy butter and lemon-juice; and garnish it with alternate groups of quenelles of salmon (mixed with some finely-chopped truffles), some large crayfish, button-mushrooms, and small fillets of soles decorated with green gherkins, rolled in a spiral shape, and simmered in a little butter and lemon-juice. Form a decoration on the back and head of the fish, with some ornamented fillets of soles; send up some of the sauce in a boat. ~414. SALMON A LA GENOISE. Born a salmon, skin it, and place it on a dish; mask it with Ge- noise sauce (No. 30), and garnish it round with lobster quenelles, but- ton-mushrooms, some glazed tails of very small lobsters, quenelles of whiting, half of which must be coloured with extract of spinach or Ravigotte herbs, and the remainder with chopped truffles. All these garnishes are appropriate in ornamenting this dish, but it is de- sirable not to use too many sorts of garnishes in the preparation of one dish, so as not to produce an unseemly species of medley. Send up some Cenoise sauce in a boat. 415. SALMON A LA CARDINAL. Boit and skin a salmon that has been previously trussed, as directed in the first article of this chapter; cover it with a thin smooth coating of lobster quenelles; ornament it with a representa- tion of the scales of the fish, py placing alternate rows of half- moons of truffle on its surface, marking out the eyes and gills, also with fillets of truffles. Cover the salmon with very thin layers of fat bacon, moisten with half a bottle of white wine, and a ladleful of good broth; cover with a buttered paper, place the lid on the fish- SALMON, 117 kettle containing the salmoy, and set it to simmer on a moderate fire for three-quarters of an hour. Then drain the salmon, place it in a dish, on a créustade, and keep it in the hot closet till wanted Meanwhile, reduce the liquor in which the salmon has been braized. with the remaining half-bottle of wine, and mix with it some Car- dinal sauce (No. 48); remove the layers of bacon, glaze the fish lightly and sauce it. Garnish it round with groups of truffles, mushrooms, crayfish tails, and quenelles of lobster As usual, send up some of the sauce in a boat. 416. SALMON A LA VICTORIA. BRaizE a salmon in a mirepoix (No. 237) made with claret; when the fish is done, skin it, and place it on a low créustade, on a dish. Then, after divesting the mirepoix in which the fish has been done, of all grease, put one-third of it into a stew-pan, boil it down to a demi-glaze, and work it in with some brown sauce; add a pat of anchovy butter, and a good piece of lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice; mix the whole well together, and pour the sauce over the salmon. Garnish it round with groups of crayfish tails, fried fillets of smelts, and small quenelles of whiting. | Send some of the sauce up to table in a boat, and put some thin scollops of lobster in it. 417. SALMON A LA MARECHALE. Truss a salmon in the shape of the letter S, boil it in salt and water, skin and cover it with a coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and set it to cool in the larder; then shake some very fine bread- crumbs over it, and after fixing them on the sauce by gentle pres- sure with the blade of a knife, egg the salmon over with a paste- brush dipped in three whole eggs beaten up with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; again shake some bread-crumbs over it, smoothing them on the salmon with the blade of a knife; place the fish ona deep baking-dish, previously buttered for the purpose, moisten with a little white wine and consommé, or some mirepoix. About three- quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put the salmon in the oven, and bake it of a deep yellow or very light brown colour; then place the salmon carefully on a dish, sauce it round with Crayfish or Su- préme Dutch sauce, in which has been added an infusion of horse- radish, and garnish round with a border of quenelies of gurnets, and fried smelts trussed as whitings are for frying. 418. SALMON A L’ANGLAISE. Bort the salmon, either whole or in slices, in salt and water; wher done, dish it up on a silver drainer, without a napkin, Plain boiled fish should never be sent to table on napkins, nor garnished round with cold wet parsley, neither is it advisable to garnish with fried small fish, the latter thereby generally becoming soddened and spoilt; the mixed vapour arising from both kinds of fish when thus covered up, is detrimental to the flavour of each Dish up the salmon, and send it to table with either of the follow- ing sauces: Lobster, Shrimp, Crayfish, Dutch, Parsley and butter, or Muscle sauce 118 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. 419. SALMON A L’ECOSSAISE. To dress salmon or trout in perfection in this style, it is quite ne- cessary that the fish be dressed a short time after being caught: sportsmen well know that it is only while this kind of fish is yet almost alive, that it retains that white creamy substance which ap- pears between the flakes of the boiled fish, and which makes it so truly delicious: this is little known to the London epicure. If it be practicable to procure what is termed a live salmon, take out the gills, draw it, wash the fish and crimp it on either side, by making deep incisions with a sharp knife, and then throw it into a large vessel, containing clean, cold, spring water, fresh from the pump—to remain there about two hours. In crimping any sort of fish, the colder the water is the better; the coldness of the water, petrifying the fish to a certain degree, gives it the firmness so much desired. As soon as the salmon or trout is crimped, put it into the fish-kettle containing boiling water in sufficient quantity to cover the fish, at the same time throwing in a good handful of salt; let the fish boil on the side of the fire, remembering that crimped fish require considerably less time in boiling than when plain. As soon as the fish is done, take it out of the water immediately: leaving fish of any kind in the water after it is done, detracts from its flavour and firmness. When the salmon is dished up, send it to table with Lobster sauce, Parsley and butter, or the following sauce:—Put half a pound of fresh- churned butter into a clean stewpan, add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, a little grated nutmeg, a pinch of minionette pep- per, some salt, and juice of lemon; set the stewpan in a bath of hot water, and keep stirring the butter quickly as it melts, with a wooden spoon; when the whole of the butter is melted, work the sauce well together, and send to table. With crimped salmon or trout, this kind of melted butter will be found to surpass all other sauces. 420. SLICES OF SALMON A LA TARTARE. Strerp some slices of salmon ina dish with a little salad-oil, pepper and salt, and a few sprigs of parsley; about half an hour before dinner, place the slices of salmon on a clear gridiron rubbed over with whiting, and broil them on a clear fire; when done on one side, turn them on the other: both sides should be of a fine light brown; dish them up, and.send to table with either some Tartare, Cambridge, or Rémoulade sauce in a boat (Nos. 94, 95, 96). 421. MATELOTTE OF SALMON. Boi and take the skin off one or more slices of salmon, mask them with some glaze mixed with pounded lobster-coral; place them ona dish, and garnish with a rich Matelotte ragout (No. 198). 422. SLICES OF SALMON A LA VENITIENNE. Bort, trim, and glaze the slices of salmon, as in the foregoing case, and sauce them round with a sauce @ la Vénitienne (No. 26). Garnish with a border of crogquettes of fillets of soles. : | eS ee ee SS a ee oa 119 TL BOT, COMPRISING Trout ¢ PItalienne. Trout @ ’ Aurore » @la Gasconne. ' » dla Périgueux » @la Chevaliére. y» in paper cases, with fine herbs. » Gla Vertpré, » @ la Royale. 9» au gratin, » broiled, with Dutch sauce. 423. TROUT A LITALIENNE. Bort the trout in salt and water, divest it of the skin, glaze and place it on a dish; then mask it with some Italian sauce in which has been mixed a pat of anchovy butter, a very little nutmeg, and lemon-juice. Garnish with crayfish and quenelles of whiting. 424, TROUT A LA GASCONNE. Bor, and dish up the trout as directed in the foregoing instance, and pour round it some of the sauce denominated a la Gasconne (No. 68). Garnish with fillets of soles prepared as paupiéttes (for which see No. 1131), and between each paupiétte place a group of crayfish tails that have been tossed in a little glaze, and some pounded lobster-coral. 495. TROUT A LA CHEVALIERE. Born, skin, and trim one or more trout, and cover them all over with some D’Uxelles or Papillotte sauce: when the sauce, by getting cold, has become set on the trout, roll them in very fine bread- crumbs, and afterwards egg them over and roll them again in the bread-crumbs, in which Parmesan cheese has been mixed in the pro- portion of one-third; place the trout ona buttered baking-sheet, and about half an hour before dinner, first sprinkle them over with a little melted fresh butter, and then put them in the oven to be baked of a fine light brown colour. Dish them up and sauce round with the following ragout :—Reduce half a bottle of dry Champagne or Sauterne, with some essence of mushrooms, down to one-fourth part, then add a ladleful of Allemande sauce, incorporate with it a pat: of anchovy butter, a little lobster-coral, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon- juice; sauce the trout round, and garnish with a border of small fillets of soles that have been contisés, one-half with truffles, and the remainder with tongue, and then turned round in the shape of half- moons, and simmered in a little butter, salt, and lemon-juice. In the inner circle, place small groups of prawns’ tails tossed in lobster- coral and glaze, soft roes of mackerel tossed in a spoonful of sauce, coloured with some green Ravigotie, and between the trout a row of large crayfish trimmed and glazed. Send up some of the sauce in 2 boat. | 426. TROUT AU GRATIN. Parsort the trout sufficiently to remove the skin, and, when trimmed, place theia on a buttered sauta-pan; season with peppe and salt, sprinkle over them a good spoonful of chopped parsley, three times that quantity of chopped mushrooms, and two choppe¢ shalots; add a small ladleful of finished brown sauce, and two ox Oe DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. three glasses of sherry. Half an hour more or less before sending to table, according to the size of the fish, put the trout thus pre- pared into the oven to bake, taking care to baste it every five mi- nutes; when done, put the trout out on a dish, reduce the sauce, if necessary, incorporate in it a pat of anchovy butter, add the juice of half a lemon, and pour the sauce over the trout; then shake some baked bread-crumbs bruised fine, over the whole, replace the fish in the oven for five minutes, and then send them to table after placing round them a border of lobster croquettes. 427. TROUT A L7AURORRE. Bort and trim one or more trout, mask them over with some re- duced Allemande sauce, put them on a silver dish, and then place a wire sieve over the trout; rub the yolks of six or more eggs boiled hard through the sieve with a wooden spoon, on the fish, taking care that the curling shreds which fall through the sieve cover the sur- face of the trout equally. About half an hour before dinner, put the trout in the oven to get coloured of a fine amber hue; pour round them some Aurora sauce (No. 41), and garnish them with a border of muscles fried in batter. 428. TROUT IN CASES, WITH FINE HERBS. Procure as many small trout as may suffice for a dish, clean, par- boil, trim, and place them each in a separate paper case previously oiled, and then baked for five minutes, for the purpose of hardening the paper to enable it to contain the sauce; add to each trout a moderate quantity of fine herbs sauce (No. 14); put them in the oven twenty minutes before dinner-time to bake, and when done, dish them up, and send to table with some of the sauce in a boat. 429. TROUT A LA ROYALE. Crean and draw a fine trout, stuff it with some quenelle force- meat of whitings, stew it with a bottle of Chablis wine, a few mush- rooms, parsley, green onions, thyme, and a bay-leaf, pepper-corns, and a blade of mace: when done, remove the skin, glaze, and put it on its dish in the hot closet till required for dishing up. Then strain the liquor in which the trout has been stewed, reduce it to half glaze, add to it some Supréme sauce, work in a pat of anchovy butter, a little cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and then pour the sauce into a stewpan containing some small quenelles of whiting, button-mushrooms, and prawns’ tails. Allow the whole to boil toge- ther for a few minutes, sauce the trout, and garnish them round with a border of créustades of quenelle of whiting, poached, bread- crumbed, and fried; the interior should be removed and filled with soft roes of mackerel tossed in a little of the sauce. 430. BROILED TROUT, WITH DUTCH SAUCE. SPLIT a trout at the back, oil it over, season with pepper and salt; just before dinner time, broil it, and send it to table with some Dutch sauce in a boat separately. In addition to the different methods given here for dressing trout, this kind of fish may be prepared in every variety of form and style in which salmon is sent to table. 12] STURGEON. COMPRISING Sturgeon @ la Beaufort. Sturgeon @ la Bourguignotte. » Gla Cardinal. ee a UIndiénne. » ala Genoise. % au gratin with fine heros, » &la Dauphine. i ad la Russe. » la Périgord. » @l Anglaise. 431. STURGEON A LA BEAUFORT. CHoosk a small sturgeon, draw, skin, and truss it in the shape of the letter S; braize it in a mirepoix moistened with sherry, or with common broth, and a little brandy. When the fish is done, drain it and put it in the larder to cool; then mask it all over with a coating of quenelle force-meat of whitings; observing that the form of the head should be restored by covering that part of the sturgeon with some of the force-meat mixed with some lobster-coral. Form the | eyes, mouth, and gills, with some black truffles cut into shapes for the purpose. Place some fillets of soles previously contisés with truffles, crosswise along the back of the sturgeon, allowing the space of an inch to intervene between each fillet of sole, which spaces are to be filled up by the insertion of crayfish tails, trimmed and secured by being stuck into the force-meat in close rows; then cover the fish with very thin layers of fat bacon, place it on a drainer, and put it in the braizer with a little of the mirepoix in which it has been braized. About an hour before dinner-time, put it in the oven or on a slow fire, with live embers upon the lid, and after the fish has simmered gently, without boiling during the time allotted, take it out of the braize upon the drainer, and after divesting it of the layers of bacon, slide it off the drainer on to its dish; sauce it round with a rich Matelotie sauce made with Sauterne wine, add also some of the liquor in which the sturgeon has been braized; garnish round with alternate groups of the soft roes of mackerel (cut in halves, blanched, and fried in batter) and some dessert-spoon quenelles of lobster. 432. STURGEON A LA CARDINAL. PROCURE a prime cut of sturgeon, weighing about 121bs.; remove its skin in the following manner :—Place the piece of sturgeon on the kitchen table, lengthwise before you, so as to have a command on either side; then take a long thi bladed knife, insert its point immediately between the flesh and ekin, run the knife right up, keeping close to the back fin, and minding that the edge of the knife be kept to the left; press with the palm of the left hand on the skin of the fish, drawing the knife to and fro, so as to sever the skin from the flesh; and after effecting this on one side, repeat it on the other. Replace the skin over the sturgeon, and fasten it on with a string, in order to preserve the colour of the fish; at the same time taking care to give shape and appearance to the sturgeon. Then put it into a fish-kettle or braizing-pan on the drainer belonging to it, moisten with a good wine mirepoia, and set it to braize with fire under and over. If the quality of the sturgeon be good, about four hours’ atts Pe DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. boiling will suffice to braize it; the fish must be well basted with | 3 its liquor every now and then. When the sturgeon is done, take it up, remove the skin, drain, and afterwards mask it with some stiff glaze, in which has been mixed some pounded lobster-coral in sufficient quantity to give the sturgeon a bright scarlet colour; form on its centre a palm or star, with some contisés fillets of soles. The orna- mental skewers that appear in the woodcut must, if used—which is not strictly essential—all be garnished with a large truffle, crayfish, mushroom, quenelle, and truffle. Pour some Cardinal sauce (No. 48) round it, garnish with a border of tails of very small lobsters, and alternate groups of small quenelles of whiting, button mush- rooms, and truffles. fy € =e PER 433. STURGEON A LA GENOISRE. Prepare the sturgeon as in either of the foregoing instances, and after having glazed and dished it up, pour some Génoise sauce (No. 30) round it; garnish with a border of large crayfish, and serve. 434. STURGEON A LA DAUPHINE. Paru off the whole of the skin of a prime cut of sturgeon, weigh. ing about 8lbs; garnish the inside to its full extent with some quenelle force-meat of whiting, mixed with some chopped and sim- mered fine herbs; wrap the sturgeon in thin layers of bacon— secured on with string; set the sturgeon to braize in some wine mireporx ; when done, drain it and put it to cool in the larder, after which cover it well over—first divesting it of the bacon, &¢.—with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, and when the sauce has cooled upon the fish, bread-crumb it in the usual manner, drop a little clarified butter over it through a straining-spoon, put it on a drainer into a deep baking dish, and set it in the oven to be baked of a light colour. Then place it on a dish, sauce with Sturgeon sauce (No. 56), garnish with an outer row of quenelles of gurnets, —— jg | STURGEON. 123. mixed with some chopped and blanched parsley, and garnish the inner circle with alternate groups of thin scollops of lobster (tossed in a little lobster-coral butter, to render them of a bright scarlet colour), and some button-mushrooms and scollops of gurnets tossed in a spoonful of Béchamel sauce. Stick on four ornamental Atelets, or silver skewers, garnished each with a large truffle, quenelle, © erayfish, and mushroom. 435. STURGEON A LA PERIGORD. Prepare the sturgeon as in the preceding case, but instead of bread-crumbing it, glaze and dish it up; sauce it with a good Péri- gueua sauce (No. 23), in which has been mixed some of its own liquor boiled down to glaze, a pat of anchovy butter, and a little lemon- juice; garnish with a border of truffle crdustades made as follows :— Choose a dozen or eighteen large truffles of equal size, boil them in some wine mirepoix, cut a piece from the top, of the thickness of @ penny piece, scoop out the inside of the truffles, and cut the pro- duce into thin scollops, which after mixing with a little of the sauce, replace in the truffles; cover them with some small fillets of soles contisés with some red tongue, and turned round in the shapes and size of half-a-crown piece, and simmered in a little butter Send up some otf the sauce to table in a boat. 436. STURGEON A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Srurr and braize the sturgeon according to the foregoing directions, trim, glaze, and dish it up; then pour some Bourguignotte sauce (No. 28) round it, garnish with groups of mushrooms, glazed button- onions, small quenelles, and crayfish tails. Send some of the sauce to table in a boat. 437. STURGEON A LINDIENNE. Brazzs the sturgeon in some wine mirepoiax, take about a pint of the liquor, reduce and mix it in some Indian curry sauce (No. 47) prepared for the purpose, add a pat of anchovy butter, and some lemon-juice, sauce the sturgeon, and garnish it round with a border of rice créustades, filled with curried prawns or shrimps; ornament it with four Atelets—each garnished with a large crayfish, a contisé fillet of sole, and a fine smelt, fried: the smelt here alluded to must be trussed previously to its being fried, and the point of a skewer run through its tail and eyes, and again through the centre of the body, also through the fillet of sole, and the large crayfish. Send up, as usual in such cases, some of the sauce in a boat. 438. STURGEON AU GRATIN, WITH FINE HERBS. Tats method of dressing sturgeon should be resorted to only when it happens that a sufficient remnant is left from the previous day’s dinner. In such a case, cut the sturgeon into neatly-trimmed scol lops, and toss these in some reduced Allemande sauce, incorporated with some of the essence of the sturgeon—previously boiled down to glaze; add some fine herbs, lemon-juice, a little grated nutmeg, and half a pat of anchovy butter; mix the whole well together; put the scollops on a silver dish, piled up in the form of a dome; Cover them with some fried bread-crumbs, mixed with one-third part of 124 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. grated fresh Parmesan cheese. About twenty minutes before dinner- time, place the dish in the oven to gratinate the scollops; pass the red-hot salamander over them, to melt the cheese; pour round some of the sauce reserved for the purpose; garnish with some cro quettes of sturgeon, lobster, or potatoes, and send to table. 439, STURGEON A LA RUSSE. Brarze the sturgeon as usual, either in some wine mirepoix, or merely in vinegar and water, when economy is an object. When the sturgeon is done, take off the skin, trim, and mask it with some stiff glaze mixed with some pounded lobster-coral; ornament it on the centre with some small fillets of gurnets contisés with green gherkins,—previously placed in a buttered sauta-pan, in the shape of half-moons, and simmered in a little butter; at each end place a row of turned olives; pour round it some rich Génoise sauce (No. 80)— finished with a good piece of lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon- juice, a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, two spoonfuls of capers, some turned olives, two dozen crayfish tails, and about the same quantity of small quenelles of anchovies. Garnish round the inner edge of the dish with some smelts trussed in the same way as whitings, and fried. 440. STURGEON A L’ANGLAISE. Trim and skin a fine piece of sturgeon—or a small whole fish , line the inside with some well-seasoned ordinary veal-stuffing; re- place the skin, and secure it with string; put the sturgeon on a drainer in the fish-kettle; garnish with carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, mace, peppercorns, and six cloves, a handful of trim- mings of mushrooms, and a little salt; moisten with a bottle of port wine; cover with a well-buttered paper, and set it on the fire to boil; then place it on a slow fire to stew gently till itisdone. Next drain, trim, and glaze it; place it on a dish, and put it in the hot closet until dinner-time. Meanwhile, take some of the liquor in which the sturgeon has been stewed, with three glasses of good port wine, and boil the whole down to half-glaze, and add it to some finished EHspagnole, or brown sauce; work in a pat of anchovy butter, and two pats of fresh butter, a little cayenne, grated nutmeg, and lemon-juice; pour the sauce into a stewpan containing some button mushrooms, scollops of lobster, ‘and small quenelles of whiting, coloured with some very fine chopped and blanched parsley; allow the whole to boil. up for a minute on the stove; sauce the sturgeon over with this ragout; garnish it round with a border of large crayfish, and serve. Sturgeon, in addition to the preceding modes of preparation, may be dressed similarly to salmon, in all its varieties. 125 COD FISH, COMPRISING Cod, and Oyster Sauce, Crimped slices of Cod @ la Hollandaise. Do. stuffed and baked. a - xy Qla Colbert. Do. a la créme au gratin. 5 a » 1 Matelotte Nov Crimped slices of Cod, and Oyster sauce. mande. y z » a@la Séville. Scollops of Cod @ la Béchamel. Fillets of Cod @ U’Indiénne. Slices of crimped Cod dla Maitre d’Hitel. Baked Cod’s head. 441. COD, AND OYSTER SAUCE. Bort the cod, whether it be crimped or plain, in boiling spring water, into which throw a handful of salt; as soon as the fish is done, drain it instantly, and place it on a dish, with a clean wet napkin over it, to keep it moist: just before dinner, take off the napkin, and send the cod to table with a sauce-boat full of white Oyster sauce No. 50). ( een is rarely dressed whole, as, in addition to its unwieldy size, the length of time required to boil so large a fish deprives it materially of its peculiar attraction, which is never so effectually obtained as when the fish is crimped, and cut into slices, previously to its being boiled. 442. COD STUFFED AND BAKED. CLEAN, trim, and stuff a cod with some well-seasoned veal-stuff- ing; secure this by sewing up the belly; then truss the fish in the shape of the letter S; make several deep incisions on either side, and place it in a deep baking dish previously well spread with fresh butter; season with chopped parsley and mushrooms, pepper and salt; moisten with half a bottle of sherry, and the liquor of two dozen oysters; then set the fish in the oven to bake; and every ten minutes, or oftener, baste it with its own liquor; when it is nearly done, sprinkle it over with some fine raspings of bread, and again put it in the oven for ten minutes longer. When the cod is baked, draw the strings out of it; place it on its dish, then, pour two glasses of sherry into the dish in which the cod has been baked, and also a little consommé—to detach the glaze from round the pan; pass the whole through a tammy into a stewpan; add some brown sauce; reduce the whole to a proper consistency ; work in a pat of anchovy butter, a little cayenne, and lemon-juice, beard the oysters, and add them to the sauce; pour it round the cod, and send to table. 443. COD A LA CREME AU GRATIN Is prepared in a similar manner to turbot ala créme au gratin (for which see No. 401). 444, CRIMPED SLICES OF COD AND OYSTER SAUCE. Pur crimped slices of cod in boiling spring water containing a handful of salt, as before directed; as soon as it boils up again, set the fish-kettle by the side of the stove to continue boiling for about a quarter of an hour; when done, drain and dish up the fish with 126 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. some pieces of liver and charlton*,—which should be boiled apart from the fish, so that the oil contained in the liver may not spoil the colour or flavour of the cod. Send up to table with a boat of Oyster sauce (No. 50). | 445. SLICES OF COD A LA SEVILLE. Wass and dry half a pound of Carolina rice; fry it in salad-oil, drain it on a sieve, and afterwards put it into a large fricandeau pan ; then cut some pieces of crimped cod, about four inches square, and fry them of a fine colour in some salad-oil, after which drain and place them on the rice. Next cut a Spanish onion into very thin slices, and fry these in some of the oil used for the fish; drain off the oil and add six large ripe tomatas, from which theseeds have been squeezed ; simmer the tomatas and the onion together on the fire for five minutes, and pour the whole on the fish and rice; season with a little cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice ; moisten with a pint of good broth ; place a buttered paper on the top, cover with the lid of the pan, and put the whole to bake in the oven. In about half an hour, the fish and rice will be done, when take the pieces of cod out of the rice, place them on an earthen dish, and with a wooden spoon stir the rice over the fire, in order to mix it with the seasoning; after which put the rice on a silver dish, and place the pieces of cod-fish on it; sauce it round with some Muscle sauce (No. 52), and send to table. ‘This is a favourite dish in Spain. 446. COD A LVINDIENNE. Trim some pieces of cod in the shape of fillets; keep them rather thick; place them neatly in a deep sauta-pan, previously buttered ; then moisten them with some Indian Curry sauce (No. 47) prepared for the purpose; cover with a stewpan-lid, and set the fillets on a sharp fire to simmer ; about twenty minutes will suffice to stew them; then dish up the fillets—the one overlaying the other—in the form of a circle; pass the sauce through a tammy, pour it over them, and send to table. 447. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD A LA HOLLANDAISE. In order to produce this fish in perfection, it is advisable to bespeak some very thin slices of crimped cod, not more than half an inch thick, of the fishmonger, a day or two beforehand. About an hour or two before dinner, sprinkle the slices of cod with salt; and ten minutes before sending to table, boil them quickly ; as soon as done, dish them up, and send them to be eaten immediately, with some delicately-prepared Dutch sauce (No. 42). This method of preparing crimped fish is a favourite one in Hol- land; where, however, plain butter is taken with it, prepared as follows :— Put the butter in a small stewpan, with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice ; then keep stirring it by a slow fire till the butter is sufficiently melted, taking care that it does not become oily 448. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD A LA COLBERT. ProcuRE some very thin slices of crimped cod; bread-crumb and * A soft whitish substance in curling folds found inside cod-fish. a COD FISH. 127 fry them ; dish them up with some cold Maitre d’Hétel butter (No. 44) under them; then sauce them round with an essence prepared: for the purpose, as follows :— Put the trimmings of the fish with a sole, or two or three floun- ders, cut into pieces, into a small stewpan, with carrot, parsley roots, thyme, mace, and peppercorns; moisten with two glasses of white wine, and allow the whole to boil down to half; adda small ladleful of good consommé; set the essence to boil gently for half an hour ; strain and reduce it down one-third, to which add a spoonful of Bé- chamel or Allemande sauce, and use it as directed above. 449. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD, IN MATELOTTE NORMANDE. Prace some thin slices of cod on a silver dish, previously spread with butter; season them with a little pepper and salt, and sprinkle some chopped parsley over them; moisten with two glasses of French white wine and some oyster liquor; cover with a buttered paper, and half an hour before dinner put them in the oven to bake, taking care to baste them occasionally. When the fish is done, pour the liquor there may be in the dish into a ragout prepared for the pur- pose, in the usual manner (No. 194), and wipe the edges of the dish with a wet napkin; sauce the slices of cod over with the ragout, and garnish round with a border of fried smelts and large crayfish; place some glazed oval créutons round the inner circle, and send to table. 450. SCOLLOPS OF COD A LA BECHAMEL. Cur and trim some crimped cod into neat scollops; simmer them in a sauta-pan with a little fresh butter and salt; when done, drain them on anapkin, and afterwards toss them gently in a stewpan, with some good cream Béchamel sauce (No. 6); dish them up, pyramidally, in the entrée dish, and garnish round with a border of potato cro: quettes. To save time, ev indeed as a variety, these scollops may also be prepared in the following manner :— Boil the slices, or piece of cod, drain it, and then break it gently into large flakes, which toss in some Béchamel sauce; dish up and garnish as directed above. 451. SLICES OF CRIMPED COD A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Streep some thin slices of crimped cod in a little oil, pepper, and salt; broil them on a gridiron rubbed with whiting, and when done, glaze them over very lightly; dish them up, and sauce them under and round with a well-seasoned Maitre d’Hotel sauce (No. 48), and send to table. 452. COD’S HEAD BAKED. Fit the hollow of the gills with some veal stuffing; put the head into a deep baking dish—season with pepper and salt, a little chopped shalot, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; moisten with two glasses of sherry and a little mushroom catsup; put two pats of butter on the fish, and place it in the oven to bake, remembering that it must be frequently basted with its liquor, adding, if necessary, a little con- sommé for the purpose. After the cod’s head has been in the oven ten minutes, sprinkle it over with some bruised raspings of breaa, 128 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. and when its oaking is completed, place it on its dish; then adda spoonful of brown sauce and half a glass of wine to the liquor in which the head has been baked, and allow the whole to boil down to the consistency of sauce; add a pat of butter, a little essence of an- chovies, and lemon-juice ; work the whole together, pour the sauce round the cod’s head, and send to table. HADDOCKS AND COD’S SOUNDS, COMPRISING Haddocks @ la Royale. Fillets of Haddocks @ la Maréchalz. 5 stuffed and baked, ” ” a UItaliénne. 3 a la Belle-vue. Cod’s sounds and Egg sauce. ty broiled, with Dutch sauce, Bg » ala Ravigotte. e boiled, with Egg sauce. 4 » ala Gasconne. Fillets of Haddocks @ la Royale. , » Gla Royale. 453. HADDOCKS A LA ROYALE. Bong and stuff two haddocks with some quenelle force-meat of whiting; place them head to tail on a baking-sheet; then season them with a little pepper and salt, and bake them. After allowing the haddocks to cool, cover them with a thin layer of quenelle force- meat of whitings, and place thereon some contisés fillets of soles, in a slanting direction; mask the heads with a little of the force-meat, mixed with some pounded lobster-coral, and form the eyes and mouth with truffles; cover the haddocks with very thin layers of bacon,— placing over all a buttered paper. About three-quarters of an hour before dinner, put the haddocks in the oven to finish baking; just before serving, take off the paper, and remove the layers of bacon, and with a clean napkin absorb all the grease and moisture there may be upon them; then carefully remove the haddocks on to their dish, sauce them round with some Parisian sauce (No. 40), and garnish them with some quenelles of lobster, with a large scollop of truffle intervening between each quenelle, and send to table. 454. HADDOCKS, STUFFED AND BAKED, ARE prepared in the same manner as cods’ heads baked, previously described. Haddocks, after being baked, may also be served with Poivrade, Piquante, Tomata, Italian, Oyster, Muscle, or Caper sauces. 455. HADDOCKS A LA BELLE-VUE. Skin two haddocks; truss them as you would whitings for fry- ing, and put them into a baking dish; cover them with a layer of quenelle force-meat of whitings, coloured with lobster-coral; then place across their backs some fillets of soles contisés with green herkins, taking care to leave the space of an inch between each fillet, so as to insert some small truffles cut in the shape of olives; cover them with thin layers of fat bacon, and over all place a buttered paper ; moisten with three glasses of white wme, and put the haddocks in the oven to bake for about half an hour. Then remove the paper and bacon, and slip them with great care on to their dish; sauce them round with Kavigotte sauce (No. 20), and garnish with a bor- der of quenelles of whiting in which has been mixed a sufficient Bsus of very fine chopped parsley, to colour them, and send te table. HADDOCKS, AND COD’S SOUNDS. 129 456. HADDOCKS BROILED, WITH DUTCH SAUCE. To broil haddocks in perfection, it is necessary, first, to wipe them well over, and then to score them with a sharp knife ; next to steep them in a little salad oil, pepper, and salt. About half an hour before dinner, place the haddocks on a gridiron which has been rubbed with whitening and broil them; when done on both sides, dish them up on a napkin, and send some Dutch sauce (No. 42) to table in a boat. 457. HADDOCKS BOILED, WITH EGG SAUCE. Box the haddocks in salt and water; when done, drain and dish them up, and send them to table with egg sauce (No. 84) in a boat. This fish, when plain boiled, may be sent to table with almost every kind of fish sauce. 458. FILLETS OF HADDOCKS, A LA ROYALE. FILLET one or more haddocks; remove the skin by passing the ixnife under the fillet, so as to detach the tail end of the skin from the fish, then take a firm hold of the piece of detached skin, and inserting the knife, with the edge of the blade turned from you, draw the skin towards you, and keep moving the knife to and fro, at the: same time pressing the blade firmly on the skin. Having thus removed the skin, cut each fillet into two or more smaller fillets, trim them neatly, by paring off the rough edges; place them in a basin with two sliced shalots, some sprigs of parsley, oil, and lemon-juice, and season with pepper and salt. About ten minutes before dinner, drain the fillets on a napkin, and afterwards dip each fillet separately in some light batter, and fry them of a fine colour in some hogs’-lard, heated for the purpose ; when done, drain them on a napkin to absorb the grease ; dish the fillets in the form of a wreath, lying shoulder to shoulder, ee in the centre some white Ravigotte sauce (No. 20), and send to table. 459. FILLETS OF HADDOCKS, A LA MARECHALE. PREPARE these in the same manner as fillets of turbot a la Mare- chale (see No. 404). 460. FILLETS OF HADDOCKS, A L’ITALIENNE. FILLET one or more haddocks, remove the skins, cut and trim them into smaller fillets; place these neatly in a sautapan with some cla- rified butter ; season with pepper and salt, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, sprinkle some chopped parsley ; over all place a round of buttered paper, and put them in the oven, or on a moderate fire, to simmer for about ten minutes; then drain the fillets on a napkin, and afterwards dish them up in the form of a wreath, one fillet rest- ing on the other, and pour some Italian sauce mixed with a pat of butter, a little anchovy and lemon-juice over them, and send to table. K 130 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. By varying the sauce, fillets of haddocks prepared in the above manner, are named according to the sauce employed; as for instance, ad la Ravigotte, d la Maitre d Hotel, a la Hollandaise, &e. - np 461. COD’s SOUNDS, AND EGG SAUCE. _ Preparatory to boiling cod’s sounds, it is quite necessary that they should be soaked in milk and water for at least six hours, and then washed and put to boil in a stewpan containing fresh milk and water, then continue gently boiling till they are done—about an hour will suffice for this. When done, drain them on a napkin, cut them into pieces about an inch and a half square, and put them into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of egg sauce (No. 84); toss the whole together over the fire, pile them up on a dish in a pyramidal form, garnish them round with neatly-cut boiled parsnips, and send to table. 462. COD’S SOUNDS, A LA RAVIGOTTE. PREPARE and cut the sounds into pieces, as directed in the pre- ceding article; toss them in some Ravigotte sauce (No. 20), dish them up, garnish round with a border of potato croquettes, and send to table. — 463. COD’S SOUNDS, A LA GASCONNE. PREPARE the sounds as usual, steep them in oil, vinegar, shalot, and parsley, season with a little mignionette pepper; just before dinner, fry the sounds in batter, dish them up in the form) of a He pour under them some Gasconne sauce (No. 68), and send to table. 464. CoD’s SOUNDS, A LA ROYALE, » THz sounds should be prepared and fried as in the preceding case; and afterwards dished up similarly, with white avigotte sauce (No. 29) poured under them, and sent to table. Cod’s sounds may also be dressed a la Poulette, d [Indienne, a Ia Béchamel, a la Maitre d’ Hotel, in the same manner, of course substi- | tuting any of the above sauces for the Kawgotte. DRESSED SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL, COMPRISING Soles fried, with Shrimp sauce. Gurnets stuffed and baked. »> boiled, » & la Dauphine. 35 & la Colbert. » ala Geénoise. 99 aU gratin. Mackerel boiled. 3, With fine-herbs. A broiled, & la Mattre d’ Hotel. »» Gla Parisiénne. 94 broiled with nut-brown butter. » & la Maréchale. Fillets of Mackerel, & Ja Mattre @ Hotei. s, in Matelotte Normande. » ala Plessy. 465. FRIED SOLES WITH SHRIMP SAUCE.. MopeRatz-sized soles are preferable for frying, a8 when large from their size and thickness, they must necessarily remain a cox SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL. 131 siderable time in the frying-fat, and will thereby contract a strong flavour, as well as imbibe a greater portion of the fat: they are also less likely to appear crisp, so essential a requisite in all fried fish. Clean the soles thoroughly, pull off the brown skin, cut off the head transversely, and with a pair of large scissors trim away the fins close up to the fillets; then wash and wipe the soles dry, and roll them in a little flour; dip them first in some beaten egg, and then in fine bread-crumbs, and place the fish on a dish in a cool place until - within twenty minutes of dinner-time; then fry them in some hot lard; when done, drain them on a napkin, and dish them up with some fried parsley, and serve with a sauce-boat full of shrimp, anchovy, Dutch, or lobster sauce. : 466. BOILED SOLES. For boiling, crimped soils are preferable ; but when these are not to be obtained, choose large and thick fish—such, for instance, as Torbay soles. ‘Trim the soles, and rub them over with lemon-juice ; sprinkle over some salt, and put them on in boiling water; when done, dish them up, and send to table with a sauce-boat filled with Dutch, lobster, shrimp, anchovy, or French caper sauce- 467, SOLES, A LA COLBERT Cizan and trim the soles, wash and wipe them dry with a clean cloth ; then flour them over and fry them, after which cut them open atthe back, and carefully take out the backbone ; fill the inside with some cold Maitre d’ Hotel butter (No. 44); turn the soles on their backs in a dish, pour round them an essence of fish. or of anchovies (No. 176), and serve them quite hot. 468. SOLES, AU GRATIN, SPREAD some fresh butter on a silver dish, and place the soles, head and tail, on it; season with pepper and salt, sprinkle some opped parsley over them, and moisten with two glasses of white wine; half an hour before dinner put them in the oven to bake; when they have been in twenty minutes take them out; and, after saucing them all over with some brown Italian sauce (No. 12), shake some fine raspings of bread over the whole, and put the soles back in the oven to gratinate for a few minutes ; just before sending to table pass the red-hot salamander over them, and serve. 469. SOLES WITH FINE-HERBS. Trim the soles close up to the fillets; put them on a buttered. sautapan ; sprinkle over them some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and. one shalot ; season with pepper, and salt, and a little nutmeg, and moisten with two glasses of white wine; cover them with a buttered aper, and set them in the oven to bake. When done, drain their abe into a small stewpan containing some Allemande sauce; add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, a pat of fresh butter, and lemon-juice; work the whole well together on the fire; wipe the edges of the dish with a clean napkin dipped in hot water, and sauce the soles over; place round them a border of glazed thin créutons, and send them to table. | kK 2 12 , DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. 470. SOLES, A LA PARISIENNE. — Trim a pair of fine large soles, slit them down the back, and take the bone out; line the soles with some quenelle forcemeat of whitings mixed with some chopped fine-herbs; put them on a buttered sautapan, season with pepper and salt, moisten with two glasses of white wine, cover with a buttered paper, and put them im the oven to bake. When done, put them in press between two earthen dishes, and set them in the larder to cool. In the mean time prepare some stifily- reduced Allemande sauce, with which, after neatly trimming the soles, cover them all over; and when the sauce, by getting cold, has set firmly upon them, cover them with egg and bread-crumbs ; fry them of a fine light colour, dish them up, and garnish with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), place round them a border of large cray-fish and © glazed créutons, and send to table. 471. SOLES, A LA MARECHALE. Bone a pair of soles, line them with quenelle forcemeat of whiting, bread-crumb, with Allemande sauce, and then fry the fish; drain them on a napkin, dish them up, and sauce them round with some Venetian sauce (No. 26), and serve. 472. MATELOTTE NORMANDE OF SOLES. Bone two fine soles ; line them with quenelle forcemeat of whitings mixed with some chopped fine-herbs; place them on a buttered sau- tapan, season with pepper and salt, moisten with half a bottle of French white wine, some oyster liquor, and white essence of mush- rooms; put them in the oven to bake, and when done, remove the soles carefully on to their dish. Reduce the liquor, incorporate it in a rich Matelotte Normande ragout (No. 194), with which sauce the soles all over, and garnish round with a border of cray-fish, and some oval croutons, made with the crust of French rolls fried in butter, and glazed, then serve. 473, MATELOTTE OF SOLES, A LA PLESSY. Bong, stuff and bake a pair of large soles, as described in the pre- ceding directions, and when done, put them in press between two earthenware dishes; as soon as they have cooled, mask them over with some fish quenelle forcemeat, coloured with lobster coral; smooth them over with the blade of a large knife, dipped in hot water; then place the soles carefully on a silver dish buttered for the purpose, and after ornamenting the centre of each sole with a bold decoration,— composed of truffles,—cover them with some very thin layers of fat bacon: moisten with a glass of French white wine, and put them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour, in which time they will be done. Remove the bacon, glaze them slightly, and garnish them round with a Parisian sauce (No. 40), with the addition of some fine white muscles; place round the Matelotte a border of fried smelts, previously boned and stuffed with forcemeat, and serve. 474, GURNETS STUFFED AND BAKED. Cur off the fins and head from two or more gurnets, stuff them with veal stuffing, sew them up, and score them with a sharp knife on both sides; then place the gurnets in a buttered baking-dish, season them with pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and two pats of butter ; moisten with two glasses of sherry, some essence of mush- rooms, and a little consommé, and put them in the oven to bake,— _ taking care to baste them every five minutes until they are done. Then remove the ets on to their dish, and detach the glaze from the bottom and sides of the dish in which they have been baked, with a glass of sherry; reduce the essence to a demi-glaze, and incorpo- rate it into one of the following sauces, with a pat of butter and a little essence of anchovies ; pour the sauce over the gurnets and send to table. Hither Piquante, Italiénne, Gasconne, Provengale, Poiv~ade, Geénoise, or Tomata sauce, will suit this fish, when prepared in the above manner. SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL. | 133 475. GURNETS, A LA DAUPHINE. Cur off the heads and fins from two gurnets, boil them in water with a little salt and vinegar; when done, drain and skin them, then cover them with some stiffly-reduced , a@ la Génoise. .» », ala Maréchale 3) au ragout Cardinal. A » a@la Royale. », @la Chesterfield. Whitings boiled. : Gray Mallets, Graylings, &c. . fried. As broiled, &c. 481. MULLETS IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS. ScaLze and trim the mullets, place them in a sautapan spread with fresh butter for the purpose; season with a little pepper and salt, cover them with some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), moisten with two glasses of sherry or white wine. About half an hour before dinner (the exact time depending on the size of the fish), put the mullets in the oven to bake; occasionally basting them with their own liquor. When done, put each of them separately in an oblong paper case saturated with oil, and then lightly coloured in the oven; add a glass of wine to the sauce remaining in the sautapan, shake it about to detach the glaze from the sides, and then mix the whole with the remainder of the fine-herbs sauce reserved for the purpose ; reduce the whole, mix in a little essence of anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon; add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, sauce the mullets over in their cases, dish them up, and send to table. Mullets may be dressed with fine-herbs also, in the following man- ner :—Trim and place the mullets on a buttered sautapan, season with pepper and salt, strew over them chopped mushrooms, shalot, and parsley ; moisten with two glasses of sherry and a large spoonful of ae ¢- ns y . brown sauce; bake and finish them exactly in the same manner as previously directed. | 7 MULLETS. 135 452. MULLETS A L’ITALIENNE. WHEN the mullets are trimmed, put them in a buttered sautapan, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with three glasses of French white wine, and some essence of mushrooms; bake the fish, taking care to baste them frequently while in the oven; when done, dish them up, and mask them over with some glaze mixed with some finely- bruised lobster-coral; sauce them round with some Italian sauce (No. 12), incorporated with the liquor in which the mullets have been baked, after it has been reduced, also a little essence of anchovy, but- ter and lemon-juice, and send to table. 483. MULLETS, A LA GENOISE. Preparer the mullets in a sautapan, as before-mentioned, moisten with two glasses of claret, and some essence of mushrooms; when the mullets are baked, glaze them with some lobster-coloured glaze, and dish them up. Then reduce the liquor in which the mullets were baked, and incorporate it with some Génoise sauce (No. 30), together with a pat of anchovy butter, and some lemon-juice ; sauce the mullets round, garnish with a border of large crayfish and quenelles of whiting, and send to table. | 484, MULLETS, AU RAGOUT CARDINAL. _ Prepare the mullets as a I’Italienne, dish them up after being glazed of a fine scarlet hue; garnish them round with a rich cardinal ragout (No. 200) ; finish by placing a border of large crayfish and decorated quenelles of whiting round them, and send to table. — 485. MULLETS, A LA CHESTERFIELD. W3GEN the mullets are trimmed, put them into a buttered sautapan with half a bottle of dry champagne, some essence of mushrooms and a little pepper and salt; bake them in the oven, taking care to baste them frequently ; when done, glaze and dish them up, reduce their liquor, and add it to some bisque of crayfish sauce, previously prepared as follows :— Thoroughly wash and draw the gall from two dozen crayfish, put them into a stewpan with a small quantity of carrot and celery cut fine, one shalot, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and some parsley ; moisten with the remaining half-bottle of champagne; boil the cray- fish, and when done, remove the shells from the claws and tails, re- serving the shells for the purpose of making crayfish butter after- — wards (No. 184). Next, pound the bodies, tails, and claws in the mortar, t2ke the produce up into a stewpan, moisten with a large ragout spoonful of good Allemande sauce, and after warming the purée over the fire, rub it through a tammy in the usual manner ; remem- bering that it must be kept sufficiently thick to be able to mask the fish with it. Then reduce the hquor in which the mullets and cray- fish have been dressed to half glaze, and incorporate a sufficient quan- tity of it with the lisque, to give it flavour; adda pat of lobster or crayfish butter, made with the shells reserved for this purpose, a little essence of anchovies and lemon-juice ; pour the sauce over the mullets, : DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. 136. and garnish them round with a border of quenelles of whiting, coloured with chopped and blanched parsley, and some small fillets of soles contisés with trufiles: place these alternately overlapping each other. The fillets of soles after being conttsés with truffles, should be turned round and placed in a sautapan with some fresh butter, previously to being simmered. Note.—Mullets should never be drawn ; it is sufficient to take out the gills only, as the liver and trail are considered the best parts of this fish. According to Yarrell’s History of British Fishes, there are two distinct species of red mullets: the one is called the striped red, the other the plain red mullet, the former being the sort generally exposed for sale by the London fishmongers. Mr. Yarrell also in- forms us, that the generic term mullus, from which their name is derived, is said to have reference to the scarlet colour of the sandal or shoe worn by the Roman Consuls, and in later times by the Em- perors—which was called mulleus. It would seem that in those days, ~ the almost incredible price of 240/. was given for three mullets of large size. | . Grey Mutiets,should be dressed in the same manner as red mul- lets; they are sometimes plain boiled or broiled, and sent to table with any of the various fish sauces in use: but this fish, from its want of flavour, especially requires the assistance of the most skilful cookery. THE Graytine is seldom seen in the London market, although, from its claims to the notice of epicures, it certainly deserves to be better known; when dressed in the manner described for the prepara- tion of mullets or whitings, it will be found deserving a higher estima- tion than has hitherto been accorded to it. This fish is in season in the months of October and November. Wuitine Povtt, which in shape somewhat resembles perch, and in colour is like the whiting, having when fresh much of its silvery hue, is found to be in best condition during the months of November and December, although they are sometimes taken in the spring of the year. Partaking in a great measure of the same character as the grayling, it should, like that fish, be prepared for table in a similar manner to red mullets. The same method is also to be used in dressing gwynniad, a species of lake fish, commonly found in Wales, Cumberland, and some parts of Ireland and Scotland. 486. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Fitret the number of whitings required, cut each fillet in two, trim the ends neatly round, and place the fillets side by side in a buttered sautapan ; season with pepper and salt, strew over them some chopped parsiey, cover the fillets with a little melted fresh butter, and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them; cover with a buttered round of paper, and set them in the oven, or on the stove-fire—from five to seven minutes will suffice to do them; then, take the fillets up carefully on to a napkin to drain, and afterwards dish them up in the form of a close circle, pour some Maitre d’ Hotel sauce (No. 43) over them, and serve. Note,—Fillets of whitings thus prepared may be sent to table with any of the following sauces :—Italian, Ravigotte, shrimp, fine-herbs, crayfish, Dutch sauce, Supréme, with scollops of lobster, or oyster sauces: the dish is named according to the sauce used for the fillets. d : MULLETS. oy F037 487. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA HORLY. Fitter the whitings, and remove the skin from each, by first placing the fillet on the table, with the skin downwards, then mserting the point of the knife between the skin and the flesh, bearing lightly with the left hand on the fillet, gradually draw the knife under, so as to separate the skin from the fish without wasting its flesh: having thus trimmed the fillets, next put them into a basin with pepper and salt, thyme and bay-leaf, three chalots cut into slices, and some sprigs of parsley; add two table-spoonfuls of oil and one of French vinegar, and after the fillets have been steeped for about a couple of hours, drain them on a napkin, dip them thoroughly in flour, and fry them of a fine light colour; dish them up in a pyramidal form, with some parsley fried of a green colour, and serve up with the fish a sauce-boat of either of the followmg sauces:—white or brown Italian, Tomata, Poivrade, Dutch, Ravigotte, or Gasconne. 488. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA MARECHALE. Trim the fillets of any number of whitings, as in the previous instance; cut each in two, trim the pieces neatly, and place them separately on a large earthen dish. Then mask each fillet with a thin coating of reduced Allemande sauce, first seasoning the fillets with pepper and salt; when the sauce has stiffened on them, dip each fillet in some very fine bread-crumbs, afterwards in beaten eggs, and then in bread-crumbs again; smooth and shape the fillets with the blade of a knife, and as each is finished off, place it with care in a sautapan containing some clarified butter. ‘'wenty minutes before dinner, set the fillets on a brisk stove-fire to fry ; as soon as they have acquired a light colour on the under side, turn them carefully over with a knife, and when the fillets are nicely coloured on both sides, remove them on to a napkin, in order to absorb the butter that may remain about them ; then dish them up in the form of a wreath, and sauce them in the centre with some Dutch sauce—with the addition of an infusion of horseradish in French vinegar—some shrimps, oysters, muscles, prawns, crayfish, or merely some chopped and blanched parsley, according to taste or convenience. 489. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA ROYALE. Term and marinade the fillets of whitings in the manner directed for preparing whitings a /a Horly (No. 487). About twenty minutes before dinner, drain the fillets on a napkin, and then dip each fillet separately in some light-made frying-batter, and throw them one after another into some frying fat heated for the purpose; as soon as they are done, and have acquired a light-brown colour, take the fillets out of the fat on to a cloth, with the corners of which touch them lightly to absorb any grease they may retain; then dish the fillets up either in a pyra- midal form, or else in a circle, and pour some white Rawigotte, white Italian, Venetian, or Dutch sauce, under and round them, and send to table. 490. WHITINGS, BOILED. Wuen the whitings are trimmed, boil them in spring water with a little salt—about seven minutes will suffice to do them; take the fisk out of the water as soon as done, dish them up on a fish-plate covered 138 DRESSED £1ISH IN GENERAL. | with a napkin, and send to table with a boatful of either of the follow- ing sauces :—Anchovy, Shrimp, Plain butter, or Dutch. 491. WHITINGS, FRIED. y To prepare whitings for frying, it is necessary first to skin them as follows :— With a cloth in the left hand, take a firm hold of the whiting at the back part of the head, just below the gills, then loosen the skin on each side of the fish, just at the commencement of the upper dorsal fin, by inserting the pomt of a small knife, and with the right hand pull the skin off sharply, first on one side and then on the other. When the fish is skinned and trimmed, turn the tail round into its mouth, and fasten the ends together with a short peg of wood; dip each fish into some beaten eggs, and cover it with fine bread-crumbs. A quarter of an hour before dinner, fry them of a fine colour in some fat heated for the purpose, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley, and send to table with a boatful of either of the following sauces:—Anchovy, Dutch, Shrimp, or Plaim butter. 492. WHITINGS, BROILED. Trim and score the whitings on both sides, rub them over with oil, and boil them on a gridiron, previously rubbed with whitening; when broiled on one side, turn them over on the other, taking care to keep them of a fine colour; when done, dish them on a napkin, and send. to table with a boatful of either of the following sauces: Dutch, white Ravigotie, Venetian, brown oyster sauce, or Maitre d’ Hotel. Note.—Whitings in cases with fine herbs, stuffed and baked a /a Villeroi, &la Cardinal, &c., are dressed in the same manner as mullets. FRESH-WATER FISH, SECTION I. COMPRISING Char, « Ja Génovse. Lamprey, @ la Beauchamp. 5, in Matelotte Smelts fried. » &@ la Hollandaise. >, in Matelotte. » &la Beaufort. s, in cases, with fine-herbs. Lamprey in Matelotte. », &la Royale. » & la Foley. _Char is in season from July till October, and forms a most deli- cious variety for the table in the summer season. When perfectly fresh, it makes perhaps the best water souchet of any fish.* 493. CHAR, A LA GENOISE. Bott the fish in salt and water, and when done, skin and glaze them; dish them up, sauce with some Génoise sauce (No. 30), gar- nish with a border of small quenelles of whiting, and crayfish tails, and send to table. * Water Souchet of char is described among the Water Souchets. : fer: : CHAR. Et 139 494, CHAR, IN MATELOTTE. arm the char intended to be dressed, place them in an oval stew- pan with an onion and carrot cut in thin slices, also a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, a bouquet of parsley and green onions, a blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, some parings of mushrooms, and a little salt; moisten with a bottle of claret, and set the whole to stew gently on a stove-fire for about twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the fish. As soon as the fish are done, drain them on a wet napkin ; remove their skin with a knife, and place them neatly on the dish. Then, reduce the liquor in which the char have been stewed (after first being strained and skimmed), with a sufficient quantity of brown sauce for the purpose; when the sauce is reduced, add a little nutmeg, a pat of butter, and some lemon-juice, and pass it through a tammy into a stewpan containing some prepared button- mushrooms, button-onions, and very small quenelles of whiting ; warm the ragout, pour it over and about the char, garnish the matelotte with a border of large crayfish, and some crdutons, and serve. 495. CHAR, A LA HOLLANDAISE. Bort the char in salt and water, dish them up on a napkin, and send to table with a boatful of Dutch-sauce. Char, thus plain boiled, may also be sent to table with parsley and butter, green Lavigotte, or Crayfish sauce. 496. CHAR, A LA BEAUFORT. Puace the char when trimmed in an oval stewpan, with sliced | carrot and onion, a faggot of parsley and green onions, mace, mush- rooms, pepper-corns, thyme, bay-leat, and salt ; moisten with French white wine, and set the fish to stew gently on the stove fire. When done, drain them on to a napkin, skin and mask them with some glaze mixed with some bruised coral of lobster, place them on their dish, and sauce them round with a Parisian ragout (No. 203) mixed with the liquor in which the char has been stewed, after this liquor has been reduced to glaze; garnish round with a border of lobster croquettes. 497. LAMPREY MATELOTTE. To cleanse lampreys,* it is necessary to put them into a large earthen vessel with plenty of salt, with which they should be well scoured, and afterwards thoroughly washed in several waters: by this means they are freed from the slimy mucus which adheres to this kind of fish. The lamprey should then be trimmed and cut into pieces about three inches long, or it may be left whole, according to taste ; it should be placed in a stewpan with sliced carrot and onion, mace, pepper-corns, thyme, and bay-leaf, parsley, mushrooms, and salt ; * Of this kind of fish there are two different sorts in general use for the table; one being the sea or marine lamprey, which is abundant at Gloucester and Worcester, where it is dressed and preserved for the purpose of being given as presents. The other sort, the lampern, is much smaller; this is to be found in the Thames, and may easily be obtained at any of the London fishmongers from the month of October till March, at which period they are in season. The lamprey is considered to be in best condition during the months of April and May, when it ascends the Severn from the sea, for the purpose of depcsiting its spawn. 140 --‘ FRESH-WATER FISH. moisten it-with port wine, and set the whole to stew gently on the stove-fire. When done, take half the liquor in which the lampreys have been stewed, and reduce it with some brown sauce; add a glass of port wine, and as soon as the sauce is reduced to a proper consist- ency, incorporate with it a pat of butter, a little essence of anchovies, and lemon-juice, and pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie, containing some button-mushrooms, stewed small button-onions, and some small guenelles of perch. Drain the lampreys, place them on a dish, sauce them over with the ragout, garnish round with crayfish, and send to table. . 498. LAMPREY, A LA FOLEY. Taxs two fine lampreys, thoroughly cleansed, form each into a circular shape, and fasten them with string: then stew them in claret, with the addition of vegetables, &c., as in the foregoing cases ; as soon as the lampreys are done, reduce two-thirds of their liquor with an equal pro- portion of brown sauce, and some essence of mushrooms—when suffi- ciently reduced, incorporate with this some crayfish butter, and a little essence of anchovics, a very little nutmeg, lemon-juice, and cayenne, and pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie containing three dozen crayfish tails, and as many button-mushrooms,—previously pre- pared for the purpose. Then drain the lampreys on a napkin, and after- wards place them, one resting on the other, in the dish, sauce them over with the prepared ragout ; garnish round with a border of glazed créu- tons and fried small filets of perch. 499. LAMPREYS, A LA BEAUCHAMP, Truss the lampreys as directed in the previous article, stew them 1n old Madeira, cider, and the requisite vegetables, &c.; add two-thirds of their liquor to an equal quantity of good brown sauce, work the whole by boiling on the fire, skim and reduce it to its proper consist- ency, add some lobster-butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice, and pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie containing some small round truffles, lobster quenelles, and tails of crayfish. Dish up the lampreys as in the last case, and sauce them over with the prepared ragout ; garnish round with some glazed pastry fleurons, and send to table. Lamperns are treated in the same manner as lampreys, being similar in flavour. 500. SMELTS, FRIED, ETC. ‘WHEN preparing smelts* for frying, take the gills out carefully, trim the fins, wipe the fish with a clean cloth, dip them first in flour, and afterwards in beaten egg, and then in fine bread crumbs; fry them in some heated hogs’ lard, of a fine colour; dish them up on a napkin, and garnish them with fried parsley, and send to table with a boatful of either Anchovy, Dutch, Shrimp, Crayfish, or Lobster sauce. Smelts may also be dressed with advantage in Normande matelotte, in cases, with fine-herbs, @/ Jtaliénne, & la Royale, &e.; by observing the directions given for dressing mullets or whitings in a similar manner. * This kind of fish, which is in general estimation, is in season from August till March, when after depositing their spawn in fresh water, they return to the sea. 141 FRESH-WATER FISH, SECTION II. COMPRISING Eels, spitchcocked. Carp, a la Chambord. »y plain broiled. », .&la Royale. ay stewed, a 7? Anglaise. », &la Bourguignotte. Matelotie of Eels, a la Bordelase. » @la Périgueux, 3 », &la Parisiénne. », @& la Provengale. - » a&la Génoise. », @&l Allemande. Eels, a la Dauphinoise. » ala Veénitienne. »» @la Veénitiénne. Stewed Carp, @ 7’ Anglatse. ,», ala Tartare. Small Carp fried, » &la Poulette. Tench. » al Indiénne. 501. EELS, SPITCHCOCKED. As eels,* when brought into the kitchen, are frequently alive, 1t 1s first necessary to kill them: this, from their tenacity of life, is found by many not easy to accomplish: it 1s, however, merely necessary to insert the point of any sharp instrument into the spine, at the back of the head, to the depth of an inch, and the eel will become perfectly motionless. Then take a firm hold of the eel with a cloth in the left hand, and with the right hand proceed to detach the skin just below the gills with the point of a small knife; when there is a sufficient quantity of skin loosened, so as to gain a purchase, hold the head firmly with the left hand, and with a cloth in the right, force the skin to slide off the fish. Then cut off the head, make an incision about two inches in length at the vent, and the same at the neck, draw the gut, &c., trim away the fins, wash and thoroughly cleanse each fish ; wipe them with a cloth, and then, after sprinkling them with salt, let them lie on a dish for an hour or so, previously to dressing them. After having trimmed the eels, lay each on its back in a straight line on the table, and with a knife, open it from one extremity to the other ; detach the back-bone, and take it out; then cut the eel into several pieces about three inches long, season them with pepper and salt, and sprinkle them over with chopped parsley and shalot; dip each piece of eel separately in some beaten egg, and afterwards in some fine bread crumbs. Place the eels thus prepared on a dish in the larder, until within twenty minutes of dinner time; then proceed to fry them of a fine colour, and dish them up with fried parsley round them, and send to table. Hither of the following may be served in a sauce-boat with spitchcocked eels:—Dutch, Jtaliénne. Venitiénne, Poivrade, Piquante, Zartare, Tomata, or Gasconne sauce. * There are four distinct sorts of eels, the smg, the broad-nosed, the grig, and the sharp-nosed; the latter is the kind generally known, The London markets are supplied principally from Holland: Thames eels are however in high repute, being caught in a running stream, their skin is brighter and more silvery; they are preferable, too, from their greater sweetness, to the Dutch eels 142 FRESH-WATER FISH 502. EELS, PLAIN BROILED. Bone and cut the eels into three-inch lengths, put them on a dish, season with pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and two spoonfuls of oil ; twenty minutes before dinner, broil them of a light colour, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and send to table with either of the sauces named in the foregoing article, in a sauce-boat, separately. 503. EELS, STEWED A L’ANGLAISE. Tux eels being skinned, trimmed, and cut into pieces about two inches long, place them in a stewpan, with some sliced carrot, onion, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, a handful of mushroom trimmings, a few pepper-corns, four cloves, a blade of mace, and a little salt; moisten with half a bottle of port wine, cover with a round of buttered paper, replace the lid on the stewpan, and set the eels on the stove-fire to stew. When they have boiled gently on the corner of the stove for about twenty minutes, they will be done: then drain and trim them, keeping their liquor to make the sauce; place the pieces of eel in a clean stewpan, and then proceed to make a sauce for them in the following manner:—Put about two ounces of fresh butter into’ a stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it is melted, add two table-spoon- fuls of flour; with a wooden spoon stir them both together over the fire, until the. roux, or thickening, becomes slightly coloured; then throw in a couple of shalots, and moisten gradually with the liquor in which the eels have been stewed, adding thereto a small ladleful of good stock, and a couple of glasses of port wine. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, and set 1t on the corner of the stove, to continue gently throwing up the scum, which, having entirely removed, reduce the sauce, if necessary, to its proper consistency ; and then pass it through a tammy into the stewpan containing the pieces of eel already mentioned. Just before sending to table, add a few prepared button- mushrooms, a pat of fresh butter, some chopped and blanched parsley, lemon-juice, and a very small quantity of essence of anchovy ; toss the whole well together over the fire until well mixed; then dish the eels up in a pyramidal form on their dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish round with a dozen créutons of fried bread, and send to table. 504. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA BORDELAISE. Cur some eels into three-inch lengths, place them in a stewpan with sliced carrot, onion, parsley-roots, mushrooms, thyme, and bay- leaf, mace, four cloves, and a few pepper-corns ; season with a little salt, and moisten with a bottle of claret. Set the eels to stew on the fire, and when done, drain, trim, and place them in a clean stew- pan with a little of their liquor to moisten them. Then put the remainder. of the liquor into a stewpan with a ladleful of brown sauce, Some essence of mushrooms, and two glasses of claret; let this boul, then set it by the side of the stove to continue gently boiling, that it may throw up the scum, and become bright; when this is effected, reduce it to its proper consistency, by boiling it down quickly, stirring the sauce the whole time with a wooden spoon to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the stewpan and burning. Ther pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie, and just before a EELS. | 143 © using it, make it hot, and incorporate with it the following prepara- tion :—mix a pat of butter with three anchovies, a tea-spoonful of capers, a clove of garlic, and a little nutmeg, pound the whole together and pass them through a sieve: having well worked this into the sauce, pour it over the matelotte, and dish up the latter as follows :—place the pieces of eel on the dish, in circular order,—each piece resting on the other, with a glazed créuton of bread between,—fill the centre with quenelles of perch, place a trimmed and glazed crayfish across each créuton, and garnish round the inner edge of the dish with alternate groups of white muscles, button-mushrooms, and stewed button-onions. 505. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA PARISIENNE. Cur the eels into four-inch lengths, put them into a stewpan with sliced carrot, &c.; moisten with a bottle of French white wine, some essence of mushrooms, and the liquor produced by three dozen blanched oysters; stew the eels thus prepared; drain, trim, and put the pieces of eels into a clean stewpan, with a little of their own liquor to keep them moist and to warm them in. Put the remainder of the liquor into a stewpan with a large ladleful of white velouté sauce, and two glasses of white wine; reduce the whole quickly on the fire, incorporate therein a leason of four yolks of eggs, a large pat of crayfish butter, some lemon-juice, and a little nutmeg; pass the sauce into a bain-marie containing the three dozen oysters before alluded to, some button-mushrooms, and crayfish-tails. When about to dish up, first place upon the dish an oval piece of bread, about three inches high, cut in flutes all round and fried of a light colour ; then set the pieces of eels in a perpendicular position up against the fried bread, garnish the créustade with a group of small quenelles of whitings, sauce with the ragout prepared for the purpose, garnish round with large crayfish, and small fluted bread créustades filled with soft roes of mackerel or carp, and send to table. 506. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA GENOISE. ErtHER cut the eels into three or four inch lengths, or truss them in an oval or round shape; prepare them for stewing with the usual vegetables, &c., moisten with claret or Burgundy wine, and set the eels on the fire to stew. When done, drain, trim, and glaze them with some lobster coral in the glaze; pile the eels up in a pyramidal group on a dish, sauce with some good (rénoise sauce (No. 30), made with the liquor in which the eels have been stewed; garnish round with alternate groups of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of carp, and crayfish tails, and send to table. 07. EELS, A LA DAUPHINOISE. Bone two large eels, fill them with force-meat of whitings mixed with some simmered fine-herbs; then sew the eels up with a large worsted needle and some coarse thread; truss them in a circular form, place them in an oval stewpan with some mirepoix (No. 236), and set them to stew on.the fire, or in the oven, basting them frequently with their own liquor, and taking care that they are not allowed to boil fast, as that would cause them to break, and otherwise disfigure them, When the eels are done, glaze and dish them up, ab i] 144 FRESH-WATER FISH. one resting on the other in the dish; in the centre of one, place a group of quenelles of whiting mixed with some chopped truffles, and in the centre of the other, place another group of quenelles of whitings coloured with lobster coral; sauce them with some Périgueux sauce | (No. 23), in which has been mixed half the mirepoiw the eels have been stewed in, and finish with a pat of anchovy butter and lemon-juice. Garnish round with large crayfish, placing a group of half-a-dozen of the finest of these in the centre of the dish. ; 508. EELS, A LA VENITIENNE. Cut the eels into pieces four inches long, stew them in some mire- poix of French white wine; when done, drain, trim, and glaze them with some lobster coral-coloured glaze, and dish them up in two parallel conical groups; pour round them some Venetian sauce, (No. 26), which has been finished with the addition of half the mire- poix, in which the eels have been stewed, a pat of anchovy butter and the juice of half a lemon: pass this through a tammy into a stewpan containing a pottle of prepared button-mushrooms; some blanched chopped parsley must be added the last thing. Garnish round with groups of muscles fried in batter, and serve. 509, EELS, A LA TARTARE. ErrueEr cut the eels into three-inch lengths, or truss them whole, ina circular form; place them in a stewpan with sliced carrot and onion, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, a few pepper-corns and salt; moisten with a gill of vinegar and some water ; then put them on the fire to boil, and as soon as they are done, set them to cool partially in . their liquor :—after which drain, trim, and bread-crumb them with egg, fry them of a fine colour, dish them up with fried parsley, and send to table with some Zurtare sauce, (No. 96), in a sauce-boat. Eels a la Tartare may also be bread-crumbed as follows. Mix the yolks of six eggs and three ounces of fresh butter melted over the fire, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; with this preparation cover the eels, and afterwards bread-crumb them,—causing plenty of bread- crumbs to adhere; put the eels on a buttered baking-sheet, drop some butter through a spoon with holes in it over them, and about half an hour before dinner, place them in the oven to be baked ofa fine colour, dish them up as in the foregoing case, and send to table with the Zartare sauce, separately in a sauce-boat. 510. EELS, A LA POULETTE. Stew the eels in the usual manner with white wine, or merely as directed for & la Tartare, then drain, trim, and place them in*a clean stewpan, with some of their liquor to keep them moist. Just before dinner, dish the eels up in a group, in the centre of the dish, sauce them with some good sauce @ la Poulette mixed with a pat of anchovy butter (and if the eels have been stewed in white wine, half their liquor, reduced to a glaze, should also be added to the sauce) ; place round them alternate groups of crayfish tails tossed in lobster butter to give them a brighter colour, and some scollops of perch tossed in some green ftavigotte sauce; place in the centre of the eels, just at the top of the group, six large crayfish, eight glazed créutons of fried bread round the base, and serve. CARP. . 145 511. EELS, A L’INDIENNE. Stew the eels as directed in the foregoing cases, dish them up in the form of a circle, garnish the centre with plain boiled rice, sauce the eels with a good curry (No. 74), and garnish round with some rice croqueties to be made as follows :— To four gravy-spoonfuls of boiled rice, add one of good Allemande sauce, some nutmeg, and a little grated Parmesan cheese ; stir the whole on the fire till it has boiled two or three minutes, and set it on a plate to cool; then mould the croguettes in the form of corks, pears, or round balls, bread-crumb them with egg in the usual way, fry them of a fine colour, and use them as directed. Eels stewed and glazed according to the different modes above de- scribed, as well as when bread-crumbed and fried, or baked, may also be sent to table with the following sauces :—Bourguignotie, Tomata, Italian, (white or brown), Cardinal, Matelotte, Normande, Ravigotte, Provengale, Poivrade, Piquante, Aurora, or Crayfish sauce. 512. CARP, A LA CHAMBORD Cxoosz#, if possible, a carp* weighing about six pounds, and after scalding, drawing, and thoroughly cleansing the fish, stuff it with some quenelle force-meat of whitings. Then lay the carp on a buttered sheet of paper placed upon the drainer of an oval fish-kettle, cover the entire fish with a coating of force-meat of whitings about half an inch thick, keeping the head clear, and with some “ contises’’ fillets of soles, form thereon a decoration resembling scales, but larger ; in the angles of these, place the tail of a crayfish, trimmed for the purpose; cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, moisten with a white wine mirepoix, and set it to braize gently on a moderate fire, carefully pre- venting it from boiling fast, as that would tend to displace the fillets, &¢e. with which the carp has been decorated. If the fish is of large size, 16 will require about an hour to braize it; when done, drain it from its braize, remove the layers of fat bacon, &c., and place it on a large silver dish; garnish round the extremity of the inner edge of the dish with alternate groups of small qwenelles of whitings a la Peri- gueux, button-mushrooms, white muscles, and crayfish tails; sauce round the carp, without covering any part of it, with some Allemande incorporated with part of the liquor in which the fish has been braized, a pat of anchovy butter, and some lemon-juice; glaze the head of the carp, and after ornamenting each end of the dish with a group of large crayfish, send to table. 513 CARP, A LA ROYALE. CLEANSE a carp of largo size, wipe it with a clean cloth, and lay it on a buttered paper, place it upon the drainer of an oval fish-kettle, and cover it entirely with queneliz force-meat of whitings coloured with * This fishis held in high estimation on the Continent, especially those caught in the Rhine and Moselle. In England they are seldom found good, and this is the case also with tench; both these fish being found when cooked to taste muddy: this is chiefly owing to their being taken from stagnant ponds. Those only can be expected to be free from this disagreeable peculiarity that are caught in running streams. When about to clean carp for dressing, it is quite necessary to extract an angular sub- stance, called the gall-stone, which is to be found at the back of the head ; if netremoved, this is sure to impart a bitter taste, and render the best fish unfit for table. Ka 146 FRESH-WATER FISH. , 7 lobster-coral ; smooth the surface of the force-meat with the blade of a knife dipped in whipped white of egg; place some fillets of soles contisés with green gherkins crosswise upon the carp, leaving the space of an inch between each fillet—these spaces are to be filled up by mserting in the force-meat some pieces of truffle, cut in the shape of small olives; cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, and braize the carp.as in the former case, in a white wine mirepoix ; when done, place it on a large oval dish, remove the layers of bacon, &c., sauce it round with a Génoise sauce (No. 80), and garnish it with a border of large quenelles of soles, half of which must be coloured with lobster- coral, and the remainder with chopped and blanched parsley; withm the inner circle of the quenelles, place alternate groups of prepared oysters and the tails of prawns; at the extremities, and on the flanks of the dish, place groups of crayfish, and send to table. 514. CARP, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Stew the carp whole in red wine, when done, drain and place it on an oval dish; sauce it with a rich Bourguignotte sauce (No. 28), garnish with soft roes and crayfish, and send to table. 515. CARP, A LA PERIGUEUX. Stew the carp in wine, drain it, and dish it up; sauce it with Perigueux sauce incorporated with a pat of anchovy butter and some lemon-juice; garnish with a border of lobster quenelles, and serve. 516. CARP, A LA PROVENCALE. Sruw the carp in a mirepoix of white wine, when done, drain and dish it up ; pour some Provengale sauce over it, garnish it with groups of muscles fried in batter, and scollops of perch, tossed in green Ravigotte sauce ; place a border if crayfish round the dish, and send to table. | 517. CARP, A LALLEMANDE. CLEAN one or more carp, cut the fish into slices about two inches thick; place the slices in a basin, and season them with a gill of oil, a little tarragon-vinegar, mignionette-pepper, and salt, bay-leaf, thyme, and shalot; let the carp steep in this marinade till within about half an hour of dinner-time ; then drain them on a napkin, and dip each piece separately in flour, bread-crumb them in the usual way with egg and bread-crumbs mixed with one-fifth of Parmesan cheese ; fry the pieces of carp of a fine colour, and dish them up on a napkin, placing the pieces so as to make the fish look whole ; surround the carp with a border of fried parsley, and slices of lemon, and send to table with two sauce-boats containing some butter sauce, (see No. 70,) and some Génoise sauce (No. 80). 918. CARP, FRIED A LA VENITIENNE. STEW one or more carp in a white wine mirepoix (No. 236); drain them on an earthen dish, and after removing the skin, proceed to mask them with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce (No. 7), m which has been added some of the liquor the fish have been stewed in. When the sauce has cooled upon the carp, first strew over some bread-crumbs, then ege them over with a paste-brush, and cover them a es ial PIKE, OR JACK. (147 entirely with bread-crumbs mixed with one-third of grated Parmesan cheese: then place the carp in a buttered baking-dish or sheet, and half an hour before dinner put them in the oven to bake: they should be of a light-brown colour: set the fish on an oval dish, sauce them round with some good Venetian sauce (No. 26), garnish with quenelles of carp mixed with some purée of mushrooms, and send to table. 519. CARP, STEWED A L’ ANGLAISE. For dressing carp in this way, see the directions for stewing eels a? Anglaise (No. 508). 520. SMALL CARP, FRIED. Cleanse and scale the carp, split them down the back, open them flat, season with pepper and salt, dip them in flour and immediatel fry them of a fine colour; dish them on a napkin, garnis!; round wit fried parsley, and send to table with either Italian anchovy. or Dutch sauce, separately in a sauce-boat. If preferred, the carp may be bread-crumbed for frying in the usual way. | Trencn being somewhat similar to carp, may be dressed in the -yarious ways in which that fish is prepared for the table, with equal success ; both these kinds of fish make excellent Matelottes, and, indeed, it is not unusual to prepare Matelottes of carp, tench, and eels all in the same dish. ‘Tench may be sent to table either fried or boiled with Dutch sauce. FRESH-WATER FISH, SECTION III. - COMPRISING Pige or Jack, stuffed and baked. Perch, & la Stanley. 3, & la Chambord, §c. » &la Wastrefische. 5, fried in slices, & la Hollandaise. » @la Véenitienne. », crimped in slices, a la Hollandaise. Fillets of Perch, a7’ Italiénne, §c. Fillets of Pike. 521, PIKE, OR JACK, STUFFED AND BAKED. Scann, draw the gills, and thoroughly cleanse and wipe the pike with a clean cloth; fill the paunch with well-seasoned veal stufiing ; sew it up with a trussing-needle and fine string, and either turn the tail round into the mouth, securing them together by means of string, or truss the pike into the shape of the letter S; make several dee incisions in a slanting direction on both sides of the fish, and place it in a baking-dish ; season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and mushrooms, and a little shalot, and from six to eight ounces of fresh butter :—moisten with half a bottle of sherry, and a little good stock, or essence of mushrooms; cover with a well-buttered paper, and put the pike thus prepared in the oven to bake—observing, that it should ve frequently basted with its liquor. When done, dish it up; then L2 148 FRESH-WATER FISH. with two glasses of sherry—detach all the glaze ana herbs from the bottom and sides of the dish in which the pike has been baked, add this to a ladleful of good brown sauce, reduce the whole to a proper consistency, and mix in two ounces of fresh butter, a little essence of anchovies, lemon-juice, and a trifle of cayenne ; with this sauce mask the pike and send to table. 522. PIKE, A LA CHAMBORD. This dish is prepared in a similar manner to carp a la Chambord (see No. 512). This is also the case with pike ad la Cardinal, ditto dla Royale, and ditto fried al’ Allemande; in fact pike may be dressed in al. respects the same as carp. 523, PIKE, FRIED A LA HOLLANDAISE. WueEx the pike is cleaned, cut it into slices an inch thick, and place them in an earthen vessel; season with pepper and salt, oul, lemon- juice, chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; turn the slices of pike over in the seasoning occasionally, in order that they may be well. saturated with it, and half an hour before dinner-time, drain them on a napkin, dip each separately in flour, and immediately fry them in hogs’-lard, made sufficiently hot for the purpose ; dish them on a nap- kin, place round them a border of fried parsley, and send to table with a boat of well-seasoned Dutch sauce (No. 42). 524. CRIMPED SLICES OF PIKE, A LA HOLLANDAISE. To produce this dish in perfection, the following instructions must be closely attended to in every particular :— Scale* and clean the pike, immediately on its being taken from the water; cut the fish into slices nearly an inch thick, and put them into a panful of spring water—fresh from the pump—which, from its coldness, has the power of crimping the comparatively live fish thrown - intoit. About twenty minutes before dinner, boil the slices in hot water with a little salt ; as soon as they are done, drain and dish them up on a napkin, and send to table with either of the following, in a sauce-boat :—Parsley and butter, Dutch sauce, Maitre ad’ Hotel, or Cray- fish sauce. 525. FILLETS OF PIKE. May be dressed in every variety in which salmon, turbot, or soles are capable of being sent to table; and the directions given under those heads will suffice. It is necessary, however, to describe here the operation of filleting pike. The smaller sized of this fish are best suited for this purpose ; these should be filleted as follows :— Hirst lay the fish on the table, with its back placed towards you, insert the knife just below the gill, press with the left hand slightly on the upper part of the fillet, and then draw the knife down—close to the back-bone; when one fillet is removed, repeat the same opera- tion on the other side. Then lay the fillets alternately on the table, * The easiest way is to place the pike in a sink, and then to pour some boiling water over it, by which means the scales are effectually removed by scraping them off with a knife. % PERCH. 149 with the skin downwards, insert the edge of the knife close to the skin, at the extreme end, and by drawing the knife too and fro, keeping the blade closely pressed to the skin, it will come away from the fillet. Then cut these fillets into smaller ones, according to taste or con- venience, or into scollops, as the case may require. 526. PERCH, A LA STANLEY. THOROUGHLY cleanse two or three fine bright perch, which should weigh not less than one pound and a half each ; stew them in Rhenish wine, and when done, drain them on a napkin, dish them up, and gar- nish with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), omitting the truffles but con- taining the liquor the perch have been stewed in. Garnish round with a border of large crayfish, and send to table. 527. PERCH, A LA WASTREFISCHE. Bort the perch in French white wine, and when done, after removing the skin, dish it up, and stick the red fins straight up in a row, down the centre of the fish; on each side of the fins thus placed, decorate the perch by laying on its uppermost fillets streaks of carrot and parsley-roots, shred exceedingly fine, and boiled; also in alternate rows with these, some blanched leaves of green parsley. Pour round the perch the following sauce :— Reduce the liquor in which the perch have been stewed with a pro- portionate quantity of white Velouté sauce ; add a pat of fresh butter, some white essence of mushrooms, a little nutmeg, and lemon-juice ; mix the whole well together, and serve. 528. PERCH, A LA. VENITIENNE. Bort the perch, skim and dish them up, placing the red fins in a row down the centre ; moisten them over with some sauce a la Vénitiénne (No. 26), and send to table. : In addition to the foregoing methods for preparing perch for the table, this fish may also be dressed in the same way as pike, carp, and tench, in Matelotte, a la Dauphine, Water Souchet, ad [Allemande, a la Génose, d la Hollandaise, d la Maitre d Hotel, and also with Shrimp, Parsley and butter, and plain Butter sauce. Note.—Perch should be served in fillets only, when it happens that they are small, or that they are plentiful; otherwise it is usual to dress this kind of fish whole. 529. FILLETS OF PERCH, A J’ ITALIENNE. Fottow the directions given for filletmg pike, divesting the fillets of the skin in like manner; trim them neatly, by rounding them at one end, and bring the other end to a point. Then lay the fillets in a circle in a sautapan, with some clarified fresh butter ; season with a little salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. ‘Twenty minutes before dinner- time, set the fillets on the stove-fire, or in the oven, for about ten minutes to simmer; and when they are thoroughly done, drain them on a napkin, and dish them up in the form of a close circle; sauce them with a white or brown Italian sauce, and send to table. Fillets of perch thus prepared, may also be sent to table with either of the following sauces, from which the dish will take its name :—d la Ravigotte, d la Maitre d’ Hotel, ad la Cardinal, d la Vertpré, a la Hollandaise. 150 | ; SKATE, WHITEBAIT, AND SCOLLOPED SHELL-FISH, COMPRISING Qrimped Skate, boiled. Crimped Skate, a Ja Pascaline. = », fried. ~ » & la Royale. $ »» with nut-brown butter. White Bait. yy » @UItalienne. Scolloped Oysters. »» with fine herbs au gratin. Muscles, Lobsters, Cockles, &c. THERE are many varieties of skate, amongst these that generally called the blue or grey skate is deemed best for the table. Although not held in much repute, it nevertheless is not unworthy the notice of the epicure, when properly dressed. In order to clean this fish, skin it on both sides, draw and wash it thoroughly ; then lay the skate flat on the table, and cut it up in the following manner: First, with a sharp knife separate, on both sides, the fleshy parts of the fish from the back-bone, drawing the knife in a curving direction; afterwards, cut these wing-like pieces into long strips, by cutting right through the cartilaginous or finny parts; then, place these strips in a pan filled with fresh water from the pump, in order to crimp them. In like manner cut the fleshy parts remaining, and also the back-bone itself into three-inch lengths, and place them also in the cold water to be crimped. Reserve the liver of the fish to be dressed with it. The water in which the fish is placed should be changed often, until the crimping be effected. 530. CRIMPED SKATE, BOILED. Turn the fin-pieces of skate round and fasten them with string, boil the fish in hot water with a handful of salt in it; when done, drain and dish it up on a napkin, placing the pieces of liver in the centre; garnish round with a row of green parsley and send to table with either of the following, in a sauce-boat: Lobster, Crayfish, Shrimp, Anchovy, Dutch, Muscle, or Oyster sauce. 531. CRIMPED SKATE, FRIED. Wits a clean napkin, absorb all the moisture from the pieces of skate intended to be fried; after which, dip each piece into flour preparatory to its being again dipped in beaten egg, and then rolled in very fine bread-crumbs ; turn the pieces of skate round into shape again, and fry them of a fine bright colour, and dish them up on a napkin with a border of fried parsley, and send to table with either of the sauces recommended for boiled skate. 502. CRIMPED SKATE, WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER. Bout the skate, drain and place it on a silver dish, surround it with a border of fried parsley, and pour over it some well-seasoned nut- brown butter (No. 98). 033. SKATE, FRIED A L'ITALIENNE. BREAD-CRUMB and fry the fish as directed for fried skate; when done, place it on a dish, pour under it a good bruwn Italian sauce (No. 12), and serve } SKATE—WHITEBAIT. 151 534. SKATE WITH FINE-HERBS, AU GRATIN. © Borrer a baking-dish or sautapan, and after first turning the pieces of skate round, lay them neatly in the dish, strew over them some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and a very little shalot; season with pepper and salt, and moisten with two glasses of sherry and a spoonful of, consommé ; then shake some fine browned bread-crumbs or rasp- ings over the whole, and set it in the oven to bake; when done, place the pieces of skate on the dish, in the same position which they occu- pied on the baking-dish; reduce the liquor they have been baked in, and add it to some Hspagnole or brown Italian sauce, mix therewith a small piece of butter, a little essence of anchovies, and lemon-juice ; pour the sauce round the fish; shake some fresh raspings over the whole, and then set the dish (if it be silver) on the stove to gratinate or consolidate the sauce and fish for a minute or two; pass the red- hot salamander over it, and send to table. 535. CRIMPED SKATE, A LA PASCALINE. Turn the pieces of skate round in the usual manner, boil, drain, and dish them up; then pour over the fish a well-seasoned sauce d@ la Pascaline (No. 15) made rather piquante ; garnish round with glazed erdutons of fried bread, on which should be placed a neatly-trimmed piece of the liver, and send to table. : 536. SKATE, A LA ROYALE. Bort the skate till it is half done, drain it, and after allowing it to cool, cut it into pieces about two inches long, place these in a basin and marinade them in oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Twenty minutes before dinner, drain the pieces of skate on a napkin, and then having first dipped each piece separately in some frying batter prepared for the purpose, fry them of a fine colour in plenty of hogs’-lard, heated for the purpose ; dish the skate up in a pyramidal form, sauce round with Kavigotte or Poivrade sauce, garnish the dish with alternate groups of fried parsley and pieces of the liver, and serve. 537. WHITEBAIT. Tis very delicious fish is in season durmg the months of June, July, and August: it is then eaten in the greatest perfection at Greenwich and Blackwall. Owing to the extreme delicacy of this fish, and its very fragile nature, it cannot be conveyed any distance during the season, without injuring its quality, neither can it be kept many hours after it has been taken. _ The following is the best method of preparing whitebait for the table: Drain the fish on a clean napkin, thoroughly absorbing all the water ; then roll them in flour, and afterwards drop them into some heated frying fat: as soon as they become crisp, drain them on a sieve, and after drying them for a minute or two before the fire, sprinkle on them a little salt, dish them on a napkin, and send to table accom- panied by plates of white and brown bread and butter, and quarters of lemon,—to be handed round, with cayenne pepper. 538. SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. Oprn asufficient quantity of oysters for the purpose, and put them fis REMOVES OF BEEF. im a stewpan a a la Windsor. roots. ”» Pi a la Claremont. Braized rump of Beef, 039. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA FLAMANDE. Taxe a piece of sirloin of beef, well covered with fat, weighing about twenty pounds; bone it, leaving the fillet adhering to the upper part; daube or interlard the fillet in a slanting position, by inserting with a large daubing needle some pieces of ham or bacon about a quarter of an inch square and four inches long; then roll the beef up close, and fasten it round with a string so as to secure its shape. Break up the bones and place them with the trimmings at; BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF. 153 the bottom of a braizing pan; then place the roll of beef on the bones, and garnish with four carrots, four onions, with a clove stuck in each, four heads of celery, and a faggot of parsley with thyme and a bay-leaf, and two blades of mace; moisten with half a bottle of sherry and two glasses of brandy; set the whole on the stove to simmer for about ten minutes, then add a sufficient quantity of good stock or consommé, nearly to cover the beef; place thereon a well-buttered paper, and, after having caused it to boil, set the braizing pan to continue gently boiling on a smothered stove for about five or six hours: the time for this must be regulated by the degree of tenderness of the meat. When the beef is done, drain, trim, and put it into a conve- nient-sized pan, containing a little of the liquor in which it has been braized ; and with a portion of the remaining part, work some brown sauce for the remove ; boil the rest down, and with this glaze the beef. Place it on a dish, garnish round with alternate groups of turned and glazed carrots and turnips, glazed onions, and Brussels-sprouts; pour the sauce above alluded to round the dish, glaze the beet, and send to table. . 540 BRAIZED BEEF, A LA PRINTANIERE. Uf % M/A MA ' Prepare and braize a piece of sirloin of beef, according to the foregoing directions ; dish it up, and place round it groups of young carrots (turned in their own shape and glazed in the usual manner), asparagus-heads, small buds of cauliflowers, and French-beans, cut in the shape of diamonds, and boiled green ; round the dish place a border of turnips cut in the form of deep saucers, and filled with green-peas; pour some bright Hspagnole sauce (No. 3) round the remove, glaze the beef, and stick on it five or seven ornamental silver skewers, all of them garnished with carrots, turnips, &c., similar to the centre skewer in the above wood-cut, and send to table. 541. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA POLONAISE. i Bratzz the roll of beef as in the previous cases, mask it with some glaze in which beet-root juice has been mixed; dish the beef up on 154 REMOVES OF BEEF. 7 a bed of braized red cabbage (No. 163), garnish round with alternate groups of glazed small onions, and thoroughly well-boiled beetroot cut into the shape of small pears or half-moons, and glazed; pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29) round the remove, and serve. 542. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A L ALLEMANDE. BraizeE the beef in the usual manner, garnish 1¢ round with stewed sauér-kraut (No. 165), round which place a border of potatoes cut in the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine light colour in butter; sance round with Poivrade or brown sauce, and send to table. 543. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA ROYALE. Prepare and braize the roll of beef, as directed for dressing the beef a la Flamande ; after trimming and glazing the roll, place it:on a dish, and sauce it round with a rich ragout ala Financiére (No. 188) ; garnish round with a border of larded lambs’ sweet-breads and whole truffles, placed alternately round the dish, and ornament the roll of beef by inserting six silver atelets or skewers garnished as follows :— First run the point of the skewer through a large double cock’s-comb, then a large mushroom, a fine truffle, and lastly, a fine crayfish ; use them as directed to ornament the roll of*beef, and send to table. 544, BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA WINDSOR. Braize the roll of beef perfectly tender, trim, glaze, and place it on a dish; garnish round with alternate groups of stewed peas, and potatoes—turned in the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine light colour in butter. Clarify and reduce the braize in which the beef has been done, and with it sauce the beef round, reserving part to be sent to table in a sauce-boat, to be handed round with the beef. 545. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA CLAREMONT. Procure about eighteen pounds of sirloin of beef, cut square from the centre; bone and trim it, and then proceed to daube* the fillet and upper part of the beef with tongue and the fillets of a pheasant, cut into lengths of about four inches, and a quarter of an inch square in thick- ness; roll the beef and secure its shape with string, place it ina braizing-pan with the bones broken small, and the trimmings, three carrots, four onions, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley and green onions, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with half a bottle of sherry, and two glasses of brandy, and set the whole to simmer on the stove-fire for about ten minutes; then add sufficient broth from the stock-pot to nearly cover the beef, place a well- buttered paper on it, cover the pan with its lid, and set the beef to boil gently on a slow fire for about five hours—taking care that, when when the liquor has become somewhat reduced in quantity by boiling, the beef should be frequently moistened on the exposed surface, by being basted with the braize. When the beef is done, drain, trim, glaze, and place it on its dish; pour round it a ragout @ la Claremont, consisting of a brown sauce, mixed with one-fourth part of brown purée of onions and some thin scollops of truffles, mushrooms, and red ‘* To daube, is to lard or garnish the inner part of fowls, or any joints of meat, by in- serting long strips of ham, bacon, &c., with the aid of a larding-pin. tongue, the whole to be cut out with a round cutter about the size of half-a-crown piece; ornament the centre of the surface of the beef with fillets of rabbits contisés with tongue and truffle, turned round into the shape of palm leaves, and simmered in a little fresh butter for the purpose; at each corner insert a silver skewer garnished witin a large cock’s-comb, a decorated quenelle, and a thick scollop of red . tongue; place a border of decorated quenelles and large crayfish round the edge of the dish, and send to table. 546. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA D’ORLEANS. PREPARE, braize, and trim the beef as in the foregoing case; thoroughly absorb the oily matter from the surface of the fat, and cover it all over with the following preparation :— Take two dozen very green pickled gherkins, chop them very fine and put them into a small stewpan; stir them over a quick fire till their moisture be entirely absorbed by the heat, then take the stewpan off the fire, and after allowing the contents to cool, add the yolks of three eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mix well together, and use as paste, as directed, for the purpose of covering the entire surface of the beef with a coating about a quarter of an inch thick ; smooth it over with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water; decorate the centre and ends of the roll of beef with carrots and turnips, French-beans and asparagus-heads, cut and prepared for the purpose, in fancy designs, by placing, for instance, young carrots and turnips cut in the shape of a crescent, alternately side by side so as to form a circle, and in its centre a group of heads of asparagus boiled green, and again round this a border of large marrow-fat peas boiled green; at each end place a row of small carrots and turnips in the shape of small olives, while round the roll of beef thus decorated pour a well-made Poivrade sauce (No. 29), garnish round with a border of potato croquettes fried of a light colour (made in the form of pears, with a stalk of parsley stuck in the point, to resemble the stalk of a pear); glaze the decoration of vegetables slightly with a paste-brush dipped in some thin glaze, so as not to disturb the order of their arrangement, and send to table. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF. — 155 547. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA MILANAISE. Bone and trim about twenty pounds of the prime cut from the centre of a well-covered sirloim of beef; dawbe the under and upper fillets with ham, season with a little chopped green thyme and winter- savory, mignionette, pepper and salt; roll the beef up tight, and secure its shape with string, place it with the trimmings and usual accessories recommended in the foregoing cases, in a braizing pan; moisten with a bottle of red ‘vine and two glasses of brandy, and set the whole to simmer very gently on a slow fire for about twenty minutes; then add a sufficient quantity of good stock, to reach rather better than half way up the beef; place thereon a well-buttered paper, cover with the lid of the pan, and set the whole to braize gently for about five hours— taking care frequently to baste the beef with its liquor. When the beef is done, drain, trim, and glaze it—first straining off the braize, and divesting it of every particle of grease ; then clarify, and afterwards reduce it to the consistency of thin glaze, to which add half a pot of red currant jelly, a glass or two of Malaga or fine old Madeira. Dish up the roll of beef, pour this sauce over it, at each 156 ' REMOVES OF BEEF. | end garnish with macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese, and-at the flanks of the dish place groups of Raviolis (No. 875) prepared for the purpose, and send to table. 548. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA RICHELIEU. Braizz the roll of beef in exactly the same manner as directed for beef d la Flamande (No. 539); when done, drain, trim, glaze, and dish it up; garnish it round with glazed onions, and round the outer circle of the well of the dish, place a border of quenelles of pheasant (previously mixed with a little Soubise sauce), which, after being first poached in the usual manner, are to be bread-crumbed and fried of a light colour ; then sauce lightly with the essence in which the beef has been braized (clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half glaze for the purpose). Send some of the essence separately in a sauce-boat, and serve. 549, BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA DAUPHINOISE. For this purpose, the roll of beef should be braized sufficiently tender to enable it to be cut with a spoon; it should be allowed to cool in its own liquor, and when nearly cold, drained out carefully on to a dish, trimmed and placed on a deep baking-dish, and then covered over entirely with a coating of thick Soubise sauce, thickened with four yolks of eggs: when the sauce has become firmly set on the beef by getting cold, egg it over, and bread-crumb it twice; sprinkle a little clarified butter over the surface of the beef; and about half an hour before serving the dinner, set the beef thus prepared in a very hot oven, that it may be baked of a fine light colour; place it on its dish, sauce it round with a brown Italian sauce (No. 12), and garnish it with a border of tomatas prepared au gratin (No. 1160), and send to table. 550. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, GARNISHED WITH GLAZED ROOTS. Bratizr, trim, glaze, and dish the roll of beef up as directed for Beef d la Flamande; garnish it round with young carrots, turnips, and onions, turned and stewed in the usual manner, and placed in alternate groups; sauce the beef with some Lspagnole or Poivrade sauce, and send to table. 551. BRAIZED RUMP OF BEEF. Ture piece of beef is considered to be the best for braizing, and should be chosen of fine quality for this purpose: rich grained, of-.a deep bright-red colour, and well covered with a thick coating of delicate-looking fat. Bone the beef, and, after having trimmed it, secure its shape with string, and braize it as directed for braized rolls of beef, following those instructions, according to the manner in which the rump of beef is intended to be dressed; as, for instance, d la Fla mande, a la Printaniére, §c. &c. &c. 157 BRAIZED AND ROAST FILLETS OF BEEF, COMPRISING Fillet of Beef, & Ja Napolitaine. Fillet of Beef, @ la Milanaise, " a la Macédoine. A, a V Anglaise. “A a la Jardiniere. » a la Nivernuise. es with Chévreuil sauce. Pf a la Royale. 3 a? Allemande. ” a la Porisienne, - au Madere. 35 a la Provencale. 552. FILLET OF BEEF, A LA NAPOLITAINE. PRoovRE a whole fillet of beef, and with a thin-bladed knife pare off the sinewy skin which covers it, lard it closely in the usual manner, and prepare it for braizing as follows :—First, place the trimmings in a narrow oblong braizing-pan on the drainer, then put the fillet and garnish it round with carrot, celery, a couple of onions with two cloves stuck in each, a faggot of parsley and green onions garnished with thyme and bay-leaf, and two blades of mace: moisten with a bottle of light white wine, cover the whole with a well-buttered paper, put the lid on the pan, and set the fillet to boil gently on a slow fire, with live embers on the lid—basting the fillet frequently with its own liquor while braizing, which will require about two hours. Towards the latter part of the time, glaze the larding with some thin, light- coloured glaze, and set the fillet in the oven to dry the larding, taking care that it does not burn, or get too much coloured. In the mean time, strain off the braize, divest it of every particle of grease, and elarify it; reduce it to one-third of its original quantity, and then add a spoonful of good Espagnole sauce (No. 3), two chopped shalots, half a pot of red-currant jelly, and a spoonful of grated horse-radish ; set the whole to boil on the stove-fire for five minutes, after which pass 158 REMOVES OF BEETI'. the sauce throngh a tammy into a bain-marie. When about to serve the dinner, place the fillet on a dish, and surround it with groups of macaroni dressed with cheese, in the usual manner, some raviolis (No. 875), tossed in a little glaze, and some gultana raisins stewed for ten minutes in a little white wine; glaze the beef over, pour the sauce round the fillet, on which, at each end, and at the centre, with an ornamental skewer fix a turnip, cut in the shape of a cup (par- boiled in salt and water coloured with cochineal), and filled with grated horse-radish, and send to table; observing that some of the zauce should be sent in a sauce-boat separately. : 553. FILLET OF BEEF, A LA MACEDOINE. Trim, lard, and prepare a fillet of beef according to the first part of the preceding instructions ; moisten it with two ladlefuls of good stock, and proceed to braize the fillet in exactly the same manner; when done, glaze and dish it up. Garnish it round with groups of carrots, turnips, French-beans, asparagus-heads, and buds of cauliflower—the carrots and turnips to be turned or cut into the shape of small olives, or cloves of garlic, the French-beans in the shape of diamonds; and observe that each kind of vegetable should be separately prepared and tossed in a little Béchamel or Allemande sauce, previously to bemg placed round the fillet of beef. Sauce round the fillet with the clari- fied and reduced braize in which it has been done, glaze the fillet-and send to table. 554, BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA JARDINIERE. Braize a larded fillet of beef according to the foregoing instructions, | and when done, glaze and place it on its dish: garnish it round with alternate groups of turned carrots and turnips, to which give the shape of olives, round balls, diamonds, small half-moons, or any other suitable fancy shape—all which must be previously boiled in broth, with a grain of salt, a little sugar, and a small piece of butter; intermixed with these, place also some groups of green-peas, French-beans cut in diamonds, asparagus-heads, and buds of cauliflower. Sauce the fillet of beef round with bright Hspagnole sauce, mixed with some of the essence in which the fillet has been braized (previously clarified and reduced for this purpose), glaze the fillet and send to table. 555. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, DRESSED AS CHEVREUIL. (ROEBUOK.) - Procure part or a whole fillet of beef, as occasion may require, remove the sinewy skin which covers the fat side, trim it neatly, and lard. it closely ; then lay the fillet for a day or so to steep or pickle in & pan containing a sufficient quantity of cold marinade (No. 234), pre- pared for the purpose. Next, when the fillet has become saturated with the marinade, drain it, and prepare it for braizing exactly in the Same manner as in any one of the preceding cases; moisten with a bottle of sherry, and braize the fillet of beef in the usual way; when it is done, glaze it well, and place it on its dish. Garnish it round with potatoes turned in the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine light colour in clarified butter; sauce the fillet round with a well-made Aévreuil sauce (No. 69), with the addition of half the essence in which the beef has been braized, and which as usual, has been previously f fan - “FILLETS OF BEEF. 1598 clarified and reduced to half glaze for the purpose; glaze the larding and send to table. If preferred, the fillet may be roasted instead of braized. 556. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A L’ ALLEMANDE. PREpane a fillet of beef in every respect according to the foregoing directions, when done, glaze and dish it up; garnish it round with stewed sauér-kraut (No. 165), sauce it with Poivrade or Espagnole sauce, and send to table. The fillet of beef d 7’ Allemande may also be garnished with stewed prunes, quenelles of potatoes (No. 312), and sauced round with German sweet sauce (No. 61). , 557. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE. Larp a fillet of beef, prepare it for braizing in the usual manner, moisten it with a bottle of good Madeira, and then set the fillet to braize gently on a slow fire; keep basting it frequently with its own liquor, and when done glaze it and place it on its dish. Garnish it round with a Jardiniére (No. 148), a Macédoine (No. 144), or some nicely- fried potatoes ; clarify the whole of the liquor in which the fillet has been braized, reduce it to the consistency of half glaze, and use it for the purpose of saucing the fillet, and send to table. 558. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA MILANAISE. Brazzz a larded fillet of beef in an oval braizing pan garnished with the usual quantity of vegetables, &c.; moisten with a bottle of sherry or Malaga; when the beef is done, glaze and dish it up, and garnish it round with macaroni prepared as follows :—Boil three-quarters of 2 pound of macaroni, cut it into two-inch lengths, and put it into a stewpan containing some scollops of mushrooms, truffles, tongue, and the fillets of one fowl: to these add a ragout spoonful of Béchamel sauce (No. 5), four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and a pat of butter; season with a little grated nutmeg and mignionette pepper, toss the whole well together over the fire until well mixed, and use it as directed. Sauce the fillet round with the essence (clarified in the usual manner), and send the remainder to table in a sauceboat, to be handed round with the fillet of beef. 559. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A L’ANGLAISR. Procure a good thick fillet of beef, trim and lard it in the usua. man- ner, place it in a large earthen dish, strew over it carrot and onion cut — into thin slices, thyme, bay-leaf, and branches of parsley, some thin slices’ of the pulp of a lemon, and a little mignionette pepper; -pour about a gill of salad-oil over the whole, and allow the fillet of beef to to steep in this marinade for several hours—taking care to turn it over occasionally, so that it may absorb a portion of the oil impregnated with the flavour of the various ingredients contained in this kind of marinade. ’ About an hour and a half before dinner, remove every particle of vegetable from the fillet of beef, run a strong-made iron skewer through it lengthwise, fasten it on the spit by tying it with string at each end, and then put it down to the fire to roast—basting it frequently; take care that the fire is not too fierce, as in that case the larding will be 160 REMOVES OF BEEF. scorched, which would spoil not only its appearance, but also injure the flavour. Towards the last five minutes of the fillet’s roasting, ang before it is taken up from the fire, glaze over the larding with some thin light-coloured glaze, twice or thrice, take it off the spit, and dish it up; garnish it round with small turned potatoes, fried in clarified — butter, placing at each end a bouquet of scraped horseradish ; pour a bright Hinanciére sauce round it (No. 8), glaze the fillet over afresh, and send to table. | 560. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA NIVERNAISE. Bratrze a larded fillet of beef according to the instructions given for the fillet of beef a la Macédoine (No. 558) ; when done, glaze it brightly, dish it up and garnish it round with a Wivernaise (No. 187), and send to table. 561. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA ROYALE. Crosety lard a thick fillet of beef, daube or interlard it with small square fillets of lean ham, fat bacon, and truffles; prepare it for braizing with the trimmings and the usual quantity of vegetables, &c., one or two carcasses of game, and moisten with a bottle of Madeira. Set the fillet to simmer gently on a slow fire in the usual way, carefully basting it occasionally with its liquor; when done, glaze it brightly, and after- wards dish it up ; strain off the braize, clarify and reduce it, then add it to a Financiére ragout (No. 188), with which garnish the fillet of beef; place round it a border of large crayfish, whole truffles, and cock’s-combs, and send to table. 562. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA PARISIENNE. Roast a larded fillet of beef according to directions given for the fillet of beef d ? Anglaise (No. 559) ; when done dish it up, and sur- round it with alternate groups of green peas, and crayfish tails (tossed in a little glaze and lobster coral butter to make them of a bright scarlet) ; sauce the fillet round with a rich Financiere sauce (No. 8), finished with some craytish butter, and a little lemon-juice, and send to table. 563. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA PROVENCALE. Strep a larded fillet of beef in the marinade as directed for the fillet of beef ad P Anglaise, adding to the ingredients therein mentioned four cloves of garlic and the pulp of an extra lemon ; allow the fillet sufi- cient time to become thoroughly saturated with the marinade ; roast it off, as before directed, glaze and dish it up, garnish it round with tomatas aw gratin (No. 1160), and pour round it some sauce d la Pro- vengale (No. 25), for making which, use the marinade in which the fillet of beef has been pickled. Note.—Fillets of beef may also be dressed plain, that is, without heing larded, as some dislike the mixture of fat bacon with beef. In all other particulars, the directions for dressing braized rumps, rolls or larded fillets of beef are to be followed, when dressing fillets plain. For purposes of economy, the fillet of beef should be thus prepared for braizing: trim the fillet as if intended to be larded, and then cover the upper or smooth part with layers of beef-suet prepared for the _ BOILED AND STEWED BRISKETS. 161 purpose, by taking some large pieces of suet and placing them between a wet cloth, and with the cutlet-bat flatten them until they do not exceed half an inch in thickness; fasten the layers on the fillet with string, and for braizing the fillet, follow the directions given in the foregoing dishes. BOILED AND STEWED BRISKETS, EDGEBONES, ROUNDS, AND RIBS OF BEEF, COMPRISING Boiled Brisket of Beef, & 1’ Anglaise. Ribs of Beef, a la Chasseur. - x a?’ Ecarlate. os a la Piemontaise. Stewed Brisket of Beef, a Ja Flamande. mn a la Mode. Edgebone of Beef, @ 1’ Anglaise, “ a la Bourgeoise Round of Beef, a 7 Anglaise. e au Madeére. me a la Chasseur, 3. @%a Baden. 564. BOILED BRISKET OF BEEF, A L’ANGLAISE. PRocuRE a piece of brisket of beef, well covered with fat, and which has been in salt about a week or ten days; wash the beef in cold water, and then place it on the drainer in a large oval braizing- pan ; garnish with three carrots, two large onions with two cloves stuck im each, and two heads of celery; pour in sufficient cold water to fill the pan nearly, and set it to boil on the fire. As the scum rises to the surface, take it off with a spoon, and when the beef has been thoroughly skimmed, set the pan down by the side of the stove, to continue gently boiling for about four or five hours,—according to the size and weight of the brisket ; when the beef is done, take it up on to an earthenware dish, trim, glaze, and then dish it up; garnish it round with plain boiled turnips and carrots, that have been neatly cut into the shape of pears, eggs, or small fluted leaf-like shapes; at each end place a group of small suet dumplings, pour some gravy under the beef, and send to table. Some Piquante sauce (No. 18), lightly neu should be served in a sauce-boat, to be handed round with the beef. 565. BOILED BRISKET OF BEEF, A L’ECARLATE. Tux brisket of beef, d ?Ecarlate, should be prepared according to - the foregoing instructions, in every respect—except the salting or curing operation, which must be thus effected : To six pounds of eommon salt, add four ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of moist sugar, some bruized bay-leaves, thyme, wiater-savory, and sweet-marjoram, a dozen cloves, and a few blades of mace: with this mixture rub the piece of brisket of beef for a few minutes every day—for four or five days running ; after which, merely turn it over in the brine once a day, for the succeeding five days ;—altogether making up ten days for salting the beef. The brisket of beef is then ready for use,provided it is to be eaten while hot ; but it intended to be eaten cold, the beef should remain in the brine at least a fort- M 162 REMOVES OF BEEF. a night, by which time only it can be expected to have sufficiently absorbed the flavour of the herbs and spices. 3 The foregoing instructions apply equally to every kind of salted meat. 566. STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF, A LA FLAMANDE. Pant off the breast-bone and rough parts adhering to a well-covered iece of fresh brisket of beef; place it on the drainer of a large en garnish with carrots, onions, celery, faggot of parsley, green onions, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and two blades of mace ; moisten with sufficient good broth (from the boiling stock) to cover the beef. Set the pan to boil gently for about five hours ; when done, drain the brisket on a dish, trim and place it on a baking-sheet, pour a little broth under it, glaze it well and put it in the oven to dry, and glaze it again; then place the brisket of beef on its dish, garnish it round with alternate groups of turned carrots and turnips (boiled down with consommé and a little sugar), Brussels-sprouts, and glazed onions ; sauce the beef round with a well-finished Lspagnole or Poivrade sauce, and send to table. . Briskets of beef prepared in the foregoing manner, may also be sent to table in every variety of method described for the preparation — of rolls of beef, as well as rumps and fillets—in their various forms. 567. EDGEBONE OF BEEF, A L’ ANGLAISE. Procure a fine edgebone of beef well covered with rich and delicate- . looking fat; take out the kernels, and salt it in the usual manner, by merely rubbing the salt well into the meat: repeat this operation every morning during four days, and then be careful that the beef is turned over in its brine every morning for seven successive days: by this time the edgebone of beef will be ready for use. Next, put it on in cold water, with a couple of carrots and turnips in the pot, and set it to boil gently for about four hours: when done, drain it, trim off the soiled parts of the fat, dish it up, and surround it with alternate groups of well-turned carrots, turnips, summer cabbages, and smalf suet dumplings; pour gravy under the beef, and send to table. 568. BOILED ROUND OF BEEF, A L’ ANGLAISE, Fottow the foregoing directions in every particular—(observing that a round of beef should remain ten days in the brine, and that the time it will require for boiling must necessarily vary, according to the weight of meat); in fact,—dress the round of beef according to the old English manner, garnishing it with the same sort of vegetables as - directed to be used for the edgebone, and send it to table with some lightly-seasoned Piquante sauce, separately in a sauce-boat. 569. BOILED ROUND OF BEEF, A LA CHASSEUR, OR “HUNTING BEEF.”’* CvRez a round of beef according to the directions given for the salt- * The apparently large quantity of ale required to dress a round of beef in this fashion seems at first sight preposterously extravagant ; but it should be borne in mind that this, hike others of the more expensive kind of dishes which are supposed to be indulged in only by the wealthy, is in point of fact not so extravagant as it appears; inasmuch as that the liquor in which the spiced beef has been boiled, serves to ameliorate the soup which is now so bountifully supplied twice a week to the poor of the adjacent parishes, by the generous owners of the noble mansinos throughout the land, i em ede 7 a BOILED AND STEWED BEEF. 163 ing a brisket @ ?’ Ecarlate ; it will require a fortnight or three weeks _ thoroughly to impregnate the beef with the flavour of the herbs, spices, &c. When the round of beef is sufficiently salted, put it on — to boil m home-brewed ale; as soon as it is done, dish it up with carrots, turnips, baked Spanish onions, summer-cabbages or Brussels- sprouts, and small suet dumplings—the whole of these to be placed in groups round the beef; pour some gravy under it, and send to table. Rounds of beef prepared in the foregoing manner are more frequently sent to table cold,—for breakfast and luncheon; especially at Christmas time, when they are considered a desirable feature on the side-board. 570. STEWED RIBS OF BEEF, A LA CHASSEUR. Proctvrs three or four small ribs of beef well covered with fat, saw off the spime-bone close up to the rib-bones, and with the saw shorten the rib-bones to about ten inches; then daube or interlard the lean right through with fillets of fat bacon or ham, a quarter of an inch Square—seasoned with prepared herb-seasoning (No. 1250). Next, cure the ribs of beef, as described for the preparation of the hunting- beef, and when it is ready, wash the brine off in cold water, place the ribs of beef in a braizing-pan on a drainer, garnish with the bruised carcasses of any sort of game, four carrots, four onions, three heads of celery, and a well-garnished faggot, moisten with half a bottle of sherry, and sufficient broth to cover the beef. Set the pan on the fire to continue gently boiling for about four hours: when the beef is done, drain, trim, and glaze it, put in the oven to dry the surface, and glaze it again: then dish it up, garnish it round with glazed Spanish onions, and carrots—turned in the shape of pears; sauce the ribs of beef round with a well-finished Madeira sauce (No. 8), and send to table. Aion It is usual to dress ribs of beef in this manner to be eaten cold ;— for this purpose it is necessary to allow them to cool in their own braize, by which means they are materially benefited, as they absorb a considerable proportion of the essence—thereby acquiring both flavour and delicacy. When the ribs of beef are cold, take them out of their braize, trim, glaze, and dish them up; surround them with a border of bright aspic-jelly (to be made from the liquor in which the meat has been braized), and send to table. 571. BRAIZED RIBS OF BEEF, A LA PIEMONTAISE. Trim and daube with ham and truffles three small ribs of fresh beef; prepare them for braizing with the trimmings, three carrots, three onions, two heads of celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, two blades of mace, and two cloves of garlic; moisten with a bottle of sherry and a ladleful of broth; set the beef to boil very gently on a slow fire—with live embers on the lid of the pan—for about four hours, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor ; when the beef is done, drain, trim, glaze, and keep it in the hot closet for a few minutes; during this time, strain off the liquor in which the beef has been braized, divest it of every particle of fat, clarify it, and then add one-half to a pound of Naples macaroni, pre- viously boiled in water with a little salt and butter, for about ten minutes, and then drained on a sieve, cut into three-inch ahh and M 164 REMOVES OF BEEF. ‘put mto a stewpan with a pinch of mignionette-pepper; then stew the macaroni for a quarter of an hour longer, by which time it will be done; add a table-spoonful of tomato-paste, two pats of fresh butter, and six ounces of fresh-grated Parmesan cheese; toss the whole well together over the fire, and place the ribs of beef on their dish ; surround them with the macaroni thus prepared, glaze the beef afresh, pour into a sauce-boat the remaining half of the clarified braize reduced nearly to the consistency of half glaze, and send to table. 572. SMALL RIBS OF BEEF, A LA MODE. PREPARE the ribs of beef for braizing according to the foregoing instruction, moisten’ with half a bottle of sherry or Madeira and two wine-glassfuls of brandy; then set the pan containing the ribs of beef on the stove-fire to simmer for about a quarter of an hour; after which add two ladlefuls of good consommé, cover the whole with a buttered paper and the lid, and set the pan again on the fire to continue gently simmering for three or four hours,—(according to the weight or size of the piece of beef)... When done, drain and trim it, place it in a sautapan with a little of its own liquor, put it in the oven to dry for a minute or two—previously to glazing it: unless, indeed, it has been already glazed during the latter part of the braizing, which is the better method—frequent basting with its own liquor imparting additional flavour; when glazed, dish the ribs of beef up, and garnish them round with groups of glazed carrots, turnips, and onions; sauce round with the essence in which the beef has been braized, clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half-glaze, for the purpose, and send to table. 573. SMALL RIBS OF BEEF, A LA BOURGEOISE. Trim three small ribs of beef, daube and prepare them far braizing - with their trimmings and the usual complement of vegetables, &.; mois- ten with two large ladlefuls of good broth ; set the beef to boil very gently on a slow fire till done, which will require about four hours and a half, if the piece of beef be small; taking care to turn it over in its braize occasionally: when the ribs are done, drain, trim, and ~ glaze them: dish them up with a border of glazed carrots, onions, turnips, Brussels-sprouts or stewed cabbages, round them ; pour the essence on them, and serve. 574, BRAIZED RIBS OF BEEF, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE, Prepare the ribs of beef for braizing in the usual manner, moisten with half a bottle of Madeira and a ladleful of good consommé ; braize the beef gently for about four or five hours; when done, trim, glaze, and dish it up with alternate groups of fried potatoes in the shape of large olives, and any green vegetable the time of year may afiord ; zee, the clarified braize, reduced to an essence, as sauce, and send to table. 575. BRAIZED RIBS OF BEEF, A LA BADEN. Trim and daube three small ribs of beef with some fillets of lean ham and fat bacon ; place them in an oval braizing-pan, garnish with six shalots, a grated stick of horseradish, and a garnished faggot of parsiey and green onions; moisten with a bottle of Khenish wins al 9" Up ee _——— ce and a single ladlefal of good strong broth, braize the beef gently on a slow fire, with live embers on the lid of the pan, taking care to baste the beef frequently with its own liquor; when done, glaze and dish it up; strain the braize through a silk sieve into a stew-pan, take off all the fat, add a small pot of red currant-jelly, the grated rind of two oranges, and the juice of four; rcduce the whole to the consistency ot sauce, pour it round the beef, garnish with a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312), glaze the beef afresh, and send to tabie. Braized ribs of beef may also be sent to table in a variety of other forms ; as, for instance, d l Anglaise, a la Milanaise, d la Macédoine, @ la Royale, &c., for which see Braized Rolls of Beef. FILLETS OF VEAL. 165 REMOVES OF VEAL, COMPRISING Roast Fillet of Veal, a? Anglaise. Cushion of Veal, & la Jardiniére + » & la Macédoine. Roast Loin of Veal, a la Monglas. = ss a la Jardiniére, Pat » & la Dauphine. Roast Neck of Veal, @ la Créme. Me » 4&la Royale. ~ », &la Monimorency. “3 » @&la Financiere, By » &la Dreux. oy » & la Créme, a a nila LD’ Uxeiles. Breast of Veal, @ 1’ Anglaise. ae » &V£Ecarilate. f a la Bourgeoise. a » @&la Royale. y, ala Windsor. Cushion of Veal, a Ja St. George. AP a la Financiere. a » @&la Financiere. 2 a la Romaine. #3 », a&la Macédoine. os a la Royale. 576. ROAST FILLET OF VEAL, A L’ANGLAISE. Vzat, to be in perfection, should, if possible, be procured fresh Killed, as it does not improve either in flavour or colour by being kept. Take out the bone from a good fat fillet of veal, and with the cutlet- bat, flatten the udder so as to lengthen it out; make a deep incision between the udder and the fillet with a knife, and fill it with about 1 lb. of well-seasoned stuffing (No. 662) ; sew it up with small twine, wrap the udder tightly round the fillet, and secure its shape with skewers and twine; spit the fillet in the usual manner, cover it well with buttered thick white paper, roast it about two hours and a half; just before it is done, take off the paper, and, after first shaking some flour over it from a dredger, baste the veal with a little fresh butter, and froth it: then dish it up, pour round it some light-brown sauce incorporated with 4°0z. of fresh butter, some essence of mushrooms, and a little lemon-juice, or else use No. 82; garnish round with potato croquettes, and send to table. 577. ROAST FILLET OF VEAL, A LA MACEDOINE. Roast a fillet of vea' according to the foregoing directions, glaze and dish it up, garnish it round with a Macédoine of such vegetables as the season of the year may afford; sauce round with Supréme or Béchamel, and send to table. 166 REMOVES OF VEAL. ’ 578. ROAST FILLET OF VEAL, A LA JARDINIERE. Prepare the fillet of veal as before described, dish it up, and arnish it round with groups of turned carrots and turnips, small Fatas of cauliflower, French-beans, cut into diamonds, green-peas, and. asparagus-heads; sauce with half glaze, or a well-finished Lspagnole sauce, and send to table. ‘ 579. ROAST NECK OF VEAL, A LA CREME. Procure a neck of white fat veal, saw off the scrag and spine-bones, shorten the ribs to feur inches in length, run a stout iron skewer through the neck of veal, lengthwise, and then secure it on the spit by tying it with string at each end; about an hour and a quarter before dinner, put it down to roast, baste it frequently, and about twenty minutes before taking the veal off the spit, baste it with some good Béchamel sauce, made with plenty of cream. As in course of roasting the sauce dries on the veal, keep adding a fresh coating, until a light-coloured delicate crust is produced all over the meat ; then take it off the spit with great care, in order that the crust may not be disturbed; dish it up, pour a good cream Béchamel sauce (No. 6) under it, garnish it round with groups of French-beans, cut in diamonds and buds of cauliflower, and send to table. 580. BRAIZED NECK OF VEAL, A LA MONTMORENCY. Trim a neck of white veal, according to the directions given in the preceding article; then, with a thin long-bladed knife, pare off the skin and sinew which cover the fillet part of the neck, leaving the ribs well covered; lard the part which has been trimmed as closely and neatly as possible, and prepare it for braizing, as follows :— Strew the bottom of the drainer of an oval braizing-pan with three carrots, three onions, two heads of celery, and a garnished faggot ; cover the vegetables with thin layers of fat bacon, and then put in the neck of veal; lay the trimmings round it, and moisten with two ladlefuls of good veal stock; put a buttered paper on the top, cover with the lid, upon which place live embers of charcoal, and set it te braize gently on a slow fire, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor. When it is done, which will require about three hours, glaze it brightly, and dish it up; garnish with a white ragout of small quenelles, truffles, mushrooms, and cocks’-combs; then place round the ragout a border of lambs’ sweetbreads, larded, and large quenelles of fowl, decorated with tongue, and send to table. 581. NECK OF VEAL, A LA DREUX. Trim a neck of veal, daube or interlard it through the fillet with some truffles, tongue, and fat bacon; first cut these into three-inch lengths, by a quarter of an inch square, and then introduce them into the fillet-part of the neck of veal, without showing through the skin which covers it ; it should then be braized according to the directions in the foregoing article, and when done, glazed, and dished up. Gar- nish with a white ragout of scollops of tongue and mushrooms, and round this place a border of large crayfish, and glazed whole trutflles ; giaze the neck of veal, and send to table. 5 ie, eee Ao NECK OF VEAL. — 167 582. NECK OF VEAL, A LA D’UXELLES. PREPARE a neck of veal in every particular the same as described -m the foregoing article, braize it, and allow it partly to cool in its own stock; drain, trim, and spread a coating of thickly-reduced @’ Uxelles sauce (No. 16) over it; when the sauce has become set, proceed to bread-crumb the neck of veal in the usual manner with beaten egg and bread-crumbs, observing that one-fourth part of grated Parmesan cheese should be introduced into the bread-crumbs used for the purpose. Place the neck of veal on a buttered baking-sheet, and three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put it in the oven, and bake it of a fine bright light-brown colour: during this part of the rocess, be careful to sprinkle a little clarified fresh butter over the eadarenbed surface of the veal, in order to prevent it from drying or burning. When the neck of veal is done, place it on a dish, gar- nish round with a Zoulouse ragout (No. 187), and send to table. 583. NECK OF VEAL, A L’ECARLATE. Trimm and lard a neck of veal in the usual manner, mark it for braizing according to the instructions set forth for the preparation of neck of veal @ la Montmorency, and braize it in a similar manner; dish it up, garnish it round with a border of circular scollops of tongue that have been glazed; sauce round with either Supréme, Allemande, or Béchamel sauce, and send to table. 584. NECK OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE. Trim and braize a neck of veal, and afterwards let it get partially cool in its own braize; drain it on an earthen dish, and mask it entirely with a coating of thick and well-seasoned Allemande sauce ; as soon as the sauce has become set upon the neck of veal, bread-crumb it with ege and bread-crumbs, in which introduce a fourth part of grated Parmesan cheese; place it on a buttered baking-dish, three- quarters of an hour before dinner, and put it in the oven to bake. When done, dish it up, garnish round with a Toulouse ragout, surround the whole with a border of quenelles, decorated with truffles, and large craytish ; place a heart sweet-bread (decorated with pieces of the tip of a tongue, cut into the shape of large hob-nails, and inserted in cir- cular rows in the Abe Breads previously to their being simmered in a little white braize) at each end of the dish, glaze the crayfish lightly, and send to table. Note.—Necks of veal, either braized or roasted plain, or larded and braized, may, in addition to the foregoing, be sent to table garnished with a Macédoine of vegetables, a Jardiniere, potato croquettes, mush- rooms, or tomatas au gratin (in the last two cases, the neck of veal must be sauced with Espagnole, Poivrade, or brown Italian sauce), d la Milanaise, a la Financiére, &e. &e. 585. NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL, A LA 8ST. GEORGE. THE noix, or cushion, is that part of a leg of veal to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round, or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table, with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand, take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, and with the right insert the point of a knife into the separation 168 REMOVES OF VEAL. which divides the noir, or cushion, from the under part of the fillet; cut the noir away, following the separation right through, round te the knuckle, terminating at the left, under the udder, which must be left adhering to the noir. Pare off the sinewy parts from the now, trim the udder without reducing its size, and then, with a sharp-pointed knife, make a very slight incision in a circular direction on the surface of the noix, round the inner edge of the udder; next remove the outer part with a knife, trimming it smooth and neatly; lard the trimmed part closely with fat bacon, in the usual manner, and prepare the novw for braizing as follows :—First place at the bottom of a large fricandeau or oval stew- pan, on the drainer thereof, some sliced carrots, a head of celery, two onions, with a clove stuck in each, and a garnished faggot; cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, and then put in the noix of veal ; surround it with the trimmings, and moisten with half a bottle of sherry or Madeira, and a sufficient quantity of good stock, barely to reach the surface of the veal; cover with a well-buttered white paper, and set it to boil on the stove; place the lid on the pan, and put it on a slow fire, or in the oven, to braize gently for about four hours (with live embers on the lid), remembering to baste the larding frequently with the liquor, in order to moisten the veal and glaze it of a bright colour; the udder should be covered with thin layers of fat bacon, to preserve its whiteness during the braizing. When the noix is done, drain and glaze it, remove the layers of bacon, and dish it up; garnish it round with groups of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of fowl (coloured with crayfish butter), cocks’-combs and kernels, and turned truffles tossed in glaze; surround these with a border of lambs’ sweet- breads, one-half of which should be larded, and the others, contisés with tongue, placed alternately ; stick four silver skewers, each garnished with a large double cocks’-comb, a large truffle, mushroom and cray- fish, into the noir, sauce with a rich Madeira sauce (No. 8), and send to table. 586. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE. PREPARE and braize a notx or cushion of veal in every respect the same as the foregoing; the wine may, however, if thought proper, be omitted; when the noix is done, glaze and drain it, dish it up, pour a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188) under it, garnish round with a border of quenelles and crayfish, and send to table. 587, NOIX OF VEAL, A LA MACEDOINE. PREPARE the noix of veal as in the foregoing cases, dish it up, garnish it with a Macédoine of carrots, turnips, green-peas, asparagus-heads and cauliflower-buds, tossed in some good Allemande sauce, with a pinch of sugar, and the glaze produced from the small carrots and turnips; place round these a border of small artichoke-bottoms, filled alternately with green-peas, small carrots, and turnips; glaze the larded part of the nox, and send to table. 588. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA JARDINIERE. THE noiz, or cushion of veal, must be first trimmed, larded, and braized, according to the directions given for the noix a la Financiere ; when done, dish it up, and garnish it round with a Jardiniere, or garnish LOIN AND BREAST OF VEAL. 169 of small roots and vegetables, composed as follows :—Turn some carrots and turnips in the shape of either small olives, diamonds, corks, or cloves of garlic, &c., and boil them separately in consommé with a very small piece of fresh butter, a pinch of sugar, and a grain of salt, observing that the turnips must be kept white, and that the carrots should be boiled down and rolled in their glaze: prepare also some small heads of cauliflower, green-peas, French-beans cut into diamonds, asparagus-heads, and small new potatoes ; place these vegetables round the now, in alternate groups, sauce with an Hspagnole sauce, or else with the essence in which the nox has been braized,—first clarified, then reduced to half glaze, and added to a well-finished Lspagnole sauce; glaze the larded part of the notx, and send to table. In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing noix, or cushions of veal, for the table, they may, after being first prepared and braized (either larded or stuck with circular rows of truffles, cut in the shape of large hob-nails, and inserted in the semicircular lean part of the noir), be served with a Wapolitaine, Milanese, or Chipolata ragout, with tomatas au gratin, potato croquettes, and sauced with Béchamel sauce, with stewed peas, or asparagus-peas, tossed in a little Allemande sauce, with a pat of butter, a pinch of sugar, and a little nutmeg. 589. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A L’ANGLAISE. Oxper a loin of veal to be cut without the chump end, and with the skirt left on; trim it square, and placing the veal stuffing (No. 662) in an incision made in the flap part for that purpose, wrap the flap, or skirt-piece round tight, so as to secure the kidney-fat; fasten it with skewers and string, cover it with two sheets of buttered paper, to be tied on with string, and place the loin of veal in a cradle-spit to roast; or a common spit may be used. If the loin of veal be of the usual size, weighing about 10 lbs., it will require about two hours and a half to roast it; when nearly done, take off the paper, shake some flour over it with a dredger-box, and afterwards froth it over with 4. oz. of fresh butter, previously put to melt in a spoon, in the dripping- pan, before the fire; as soon as the veal has acquired a fine light colour, and the butter and flour have frothed up, take it off the spit and dish it up; pour some brown melted butter under it (No. 82), and send to table. 590. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA MONGLAS. Roast off a loin of veal, according to the foregoing directions ; next, with a sharp knife make an incision two inches deep along the sides and ends of the loin, and endeavour to cut out the square piece with- out tearing the meat, the joint resembling an oblong case. The fillet thus taken out should be cut into thin round scollops, and put into a stewpan with an equal quantity of scollops of tongue and mushrooms : to these add, a ragout spoonful of good Béchamel sauce, and with this mixture fill the loin of veal, previously put on a buttered baking- sheet; smooth the top over with the blade of a knife, and cover the whole with very fine bread-crumbs, fried with butter, of a light colour, and mixed with a third part of Parmesan cheese: sprinkle a little melted fresh butter over it, and set it in the oven to get hot, salamander *¢ over and dish it up; garnish with a white Zoulouse ragout (No 187), and place round a border of croquettes of veal, or sweetbread: at each 170 REMOVES OF VEAL. corner of the loin stick an ornamental silver skewer, garnished with a large cock’s-comb, mushroom, decorated quenelle, crayfish, and truffle; glaze the sides of the loin of veal, and send to table. 591. LOIN OF VEAL, A LA DAUPHINE. ProcvzeE a loin of very white veal, cut square, with the whole of the flap, or skirt, left on; bone it entirely, taking care, at the same time, to divest it of every portion of sinew; daube or interlard the lean part of the fillet with small fillets of tongue, or ham; the veal must then be laid square on the table, and with some quenelle force-meat of chickens (mixed with chopped parsley and mushrooms), spread the whole of the inner part, about an inch thick; the kidney and fat should then be replaced in the centre, the loin rolled up tight, and its pillow-like shape be secured with small iron skewers, and fastened with string. Then put it ina large oval braizing-pan, on the drainer : garnish with the trimmings, a couple of carrots, onions, celery, and garnished faggot of parsley and green onions, two blades of mace, and four cloves; moisten with two large ladlefuls of good consommé, cover with an oval of double paper, well-buttered, put the lid on, and then set the pan to boil on the stove-fire; after which, put it to braize in the oven, or on a slow fire, with live embers on the lid; baste the veal frequently with its own liquor, and when it is done, drain, trim, and mask it all over with a coating of the following mixture :—To six yolks of eggs, add 2oz. of fresh butter, melted, and two tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, mix this well together, and use it as directed above. Cover the whole with very fine bread-crumbs, mixed with a third proportion of grated Parmesan cheese, sprinkle some drops of melted, or oiled butter, over it, and placing the loin of veal on a buttered baking-sheet, put it in the oven to bake of a light-brown colour; when done, dish it up, pour round it a Parisian ragout (No. 203), and garnish with a border of quenelles of veal, or fowl, decorated with truffles, and send to table. 592. LOIN OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE. © Prepare and braize a loin of veal, as directed in the preceding article ; when done, allow it partially to cool in its own braize, then strain it on the drainer of the braizing-pan, and absorb any grease there may be on it with a clean napkin; cover it all over with a — quenelle farce of veal, mixed with a little lobster coral; decorate the ends and centre with a bold design, using for the purpose some black truffles, in order that the decoration may show well on the scarlet surface. Next, place the loin of veal in a large oval braizing-pan with just sufficient consommé to bathe it, to the depth of an inch, cover the oin with very thin layers of fat bacon, or, in lieu thereof, a well- buttered oval covering of paper; set it in the oven, or on a moderate stove-fire, with live embers on the lid, to boil or simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour, when it will be done. Then drain the veal, and divest it of the bacon or paper used to cover ib; pour round it a ragout of button-mushrooms, small guenelles of fowl, cocks’- combs and kernels; garnish with a border of large truffles and cray- ie glaze the loin of veal with thin light-coloured glaze, and send to table. Note.—This remove may also be decorated with ornamental skewers - a ee eS _ « ot a J ee ae r ” e * 7 h f ; f BREAST OF VEAL. 171 garnished with a piece of red tongue, cut in the shape of a cock’s-comb, a large double white cock’s-comb, a mushroom, and a red quenelle, orna- mented with truffle. | 593. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE. Procvre a loin of veal, cut square without the chump, and with the flap, or skirt, left on; boneit carefully, truss it tightly in the shape of a pillow, and after first laying the fillet bare, by paring off the whole of the skin and sinew which covers it, lard it closely, as you would a fricandeau. When the loinis so far prepared, get it ready for braizing ima large oval braizing-pan, with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot, two blades of mace, and four cloves; moisten with two ladlefuls of good stock, cover with an oval of paper, well-buttered, place the lid on the pan, with live embers on it, and then set the veal to braise gently on the fire, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor. When done, drain, glaze, and dish it up; pour round it a rich brown Financiere ragout (No. 188), garnish with a border of plain quenelles, and crayfish, and send to table. 594. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA CREME. To prepare this, follow the directions given for dressing neck of veal a la Créme (No. 579); garnish in the same manner, and send to table. 595. ROAST BREAST OF VEAL, A L’ ANGLAISE. First take the tendons out of the breast of veal intended to be dressed, and reserve them for an entrée; then bone it completely, cut the ends square, and trim it; place about 1 lb. of well-seasoned veal stuffing (No. 662) along the centre of the inner part, roll the veal up tight, so as to secure the stuffing in the middle; fasten it with string and small skewers. Aboutan hour and a half before dinner-time, spit the breast of veal, cover it with buttered paper, and put it down to roast; wher done, dish it up, pour round it either some brown melted butter (No. 82), light Espagnole sauce, or Béchamel, and send to table. 5996. BREAST OF VEAL, A LA BOURGEOISE. Bonz, trim, and roll a breast of veal, according to the preceding mstructions ; prepare it in an oval stewpan, with 4 oz. of fresh butter, and set it to simmer on a moderate fire, until it becomes coloured all over; thenadd a garnished faggot of parsley and green onions, moisten with a large ladleful of good stock, and put it to braize gently on the stove-fire, or in the oven; half an hour after, add two dozen small carrots, nicely turned, and in another half hour, add as many heads of middle-sized onions, a pinch of sugar, and a little salt. When the veal. is done, take it up, and after taking away the strings and skewers, put it on a baking-sheet in the oven, and glaze it; dish it up, garnish round with the glazed carrots and onions, and after removing all the fat from the surface of the stock, or essence of the veal, and reducin it down to the consistency of half glaze, use it to sauce the breast of veal, and send to table. 597. BREAST OF VEAL, A LA WINDSOR. Bone and trim a breast of veal, lay it on the table, and after spread- ing the inner part with quenelle force-meat of veal or rabbits, at least Wg REMOVES OF VEAL. an inch thick, place some square fillets of boiled tongue lengthwise, and between the fillets of tongue, put some pieces of black truffles, cut square to match the size of the pieces of tongue; then roll up the breast of veal carefully, secure its shape with the aid of small iron skewers and string, and to prevent the forcemeat from escaping, cover the ends with layers of fat bacon. Put the veal thus prepared, into an oval braizing-pan with the trimmings, and the usual complement of roots, &c., moisten with two ladlefuls of good stock, and set it to braize gently on a slow fire; when done, drain, giaze, and dish it up, garnish round with French-beans cut. in diamonds—which, after being boiled green, must be dressed with a spoonful of Béchamel sauce, a little mignionette pepper, nutmeg, salt, fresh butter, and lemon-juice ; round these place a border of young carrots nicely glazed, and send to table. The braize in which the breast of veal is done should be divested of grease, and clarified, and after being reduced to half glaze, served separately in a sauce-boat. 598. ROAST BREAST OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE. Trim, stuff, and truss a breast of veal as directed for the prepara- tion of a breast of veal d 7’ Anglaise, roast it off im the same manner, dish it up, and surround it with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), and send to table. 599. ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL, A LA ROMAINE. PREPARE a breast of veal as for d la Windsor, and braize it accord- ingly; when done, glaze and dish it up, garnish it with lazagnes (No. 264) prepared as macaroni, surround the whole with a border of rice croquettes, made with rice boiled in consommé, and to which should be added a little Allemande sauce, grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, and mignionette pepper; and when the preparation is cold, mould the croquettes according to taste, bread-crumb and fry them of a light colour, and use them as directed. Send the remove to table, accompanied with a sauce-boat containing Sicilian sauce (No. 60). 600. ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE. For this preparation, follow the directions given for loin of veal dla Royale. ’ Note.—In addition to the eee methods of preparing breasts of veal for the table, they may, after being either roasted or braized, also be garnished with a Jurdiniére or Macédoine of vegetables, with stewed peas, or with a ragout a la Claremont, d la Toulouse, a la Ciipolata, &c., &e.; as convenience or fancy may suggest. ; y Pry 173 REMOVES OF LEGS, LOINS, AND NECKS OF MUTTON, COMPRISING Boiled Leg of Mutton, a 7’ Anglatse. Necks of Mutton, @ I’ Anglaise. Braized * with roots. A a I’Irlandaise. Gs e & la Provengale. - a la Jardiniere. - * a la Soubise, s larded with Potvrade | an i a la Bretonne. sauce, - em on to boil in a stewpan with water, a little salt, and two or three carrots and turnips. When they are done, dish them up so as that the uncovered ends of the rib-bones may fall in between each other—representing a chevaur-de-frize. Garnish round with mashed turnips, and with turned carrots, between each spoonful of the mashed turnips, or else placed round in a row. Send two sauceboats filled with gravy and caper-sauce (No. 91). 609. BRAIZED NECK OF MUTTON, A L’IRLANDAISE. Trim two necks of mutton as directed in the previous article, put them to braize in an oval stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, and garnished faggot; moisten with common stock, and put them to boil on the stove ; after which set them by the side of a moderate fire, and while the necks of mutton are being braized, turn two or three dozen potatoes in the shape of small eggs, and place them in a stewpan with half a dozen small onions; season with pepper and salt, moisten with a ladleful of broth, and put them on a moderate fire to boil gently : taking care that the potatoes are kept as whole as possible, although they must be thoroughly boiled. When the necks of mutton are done, take them up, trim them if necessary, and dish them up as directed in the foregoing article ; strain the broth in which the mutton has been boiled, remove all the grease from its surface, and reduce it to half glaze: add part of it to the potatoes, and with these garnish the necks of mutton round neatly, pour the essence under, glaze them, and send to table. 610. BRAIZED NECK OF MUTTON, A LA JARDINIERE. Trim two necks of mutton and prepare them for braizing with carrot, onion, celery, faggot, four cloves, and two blades of mace ; moisten with two ladlefuls of stock, cover with an oval piece of buttered paper, and the lid; put them to braize gently on a moderate fire for about two hours and a half: when done, glaze and dish them up, giving them an appearance of Chevaux-de-frize ; garnish them round with a well-prepared Jardiniére of every variety of small vegetables in season, sauce them with Hspagnole sauce, and send to table. 611. BRAIZED NECKS OF MUTTON LARDED—AS ROEBUCK, WITH POIVRADE SAUCE. For the preparation of this remove, it is necessary that the necks of mutton be trimmed ag directed for braizing, and afterwards that the upper part of the fillet be laid bare without loosening it from the bones ; they must then be larded closely as a fricandeau, and put to steep in a cold marinade (No. 234), for at least twenty-four hours. It will be readily understood that this must be attended to a day before the necks of mutton are required to be used. Trim, lard, and marinade the necks of mutton as directed; and then prepare them for braizing in the following manner:—Place the necks of mutton in an oval braizing-pan on the drainer, garnish with carrot, onion, celery, gar- nished faggot of parsley, &c., four cloves and two blades of mace; moisten with some light wine mirepoix (No. 236), or in lieu thereof, use half a pint of sherry or Madeira, and a large ladleful of stock ; cover the necks of mutton with an oval piece of buttered paper, and set them to boil on the stove-fire ; after which put the lid on the pan, and set the braizing-pan on a moderate fire with live embers on the lid, to continue gently boiling for about two hours; taking care to baste the larded necks frequently with their own liquor. When done, take them up on to a small baking-dish with a little of their own broth, and put them in the oven that the larding may dry for a minute or two, then glaze and dish them up; garnish them round with a border of potatoes turned in the shape of large olives, corks, or balis, and fried in clarified butter ; pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29), under them, and send to table. NECKS OF MUTTON. ) 177 612. NECKS OF MUTTON, LARDED AND BRAIZED, A L’ALLEMANDE. Trim, lard, and prepare for braizing, two necks of mutton, as directed in the preceding article ; and about two hours before dinner- time, set them on the fire to braize in the usual manner. When done, glaze and dish them up, surround them with alternate groups of que- nelles of potatoes, and prunes stewed in red wine; pour some German sweet sauce (No. 61) under them, and send to table. 613. NECKS OF MUTTON LARDED, A LA SOUBISE. Trim and lard two necks of mutton, prepare them for braizing with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, three cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with a large ladleful of good stock, cover them with an oval piece of buttered paper as well as the lid of the brazier: set ther. Jn a moderate fire to braize gently for about an. hour and a half; when done, glaze, and dish them up (having pre- viously poured in the disha rich purée of onions a la Soubise, No. 119), place a border of potato croquettes round them, and send to table. Note.—Larding may be dispensed with, when considered objection- able, without deteriorating much from the excellence of any of the foregoing methods of dressing necks of mutton. It is, however, generally regarded as a proper characteristic of these dishes. In addition to the above methods for garnishing braized necks of mutton, they may also be finished by placing round them a garnish of stewed peas, asparagus, glazed young carrots and turnips, sauer-kraut, baked tomatas, or Lvonnaise tomatas, or Piquante sauce. REMOVES OF LAMB, COMPRISING Baron of Lamb, ¢ la Montmorency. >. Saddle of Lamb, a@-la Godard. FY a& la Printaniére. ey a la Financiére. és a la Jardiniére. _ ala Royale, ns a la Mattre df Hotel. a a la Macedoine, Hind-Quarters of Lamb. = a la Milanaise. Saddle of Lamb, @ la Dauphine. 614. BARON OF LAMB, A LA MONTMORENCY. Procure the hind quarters of a fine fat lamb, take off the trans. parent skin which covers the fat of the saddle, and with the point of a small knife, make a slight incision, in an oval form, all over the surface of the upper part of the legs; and afterwards with a sharp thin-bladed knife, pare off the skin, so as to leave the place bare ; this will give to the surface of each leg, the appearance of fricandeaux prepared for larding. Then saw off the shank bones, as well as the projecting part of the spine bone; cut off the tail, and truss the skirts neatly up with small skewers. Next, place the baron on the spit for roasting, and be careful to cover it with buttered white paper. Two hours and a half before dinner, put the lamb down to the fire to roast, and about ten minutes before it is done, take off the paper; and after © allowing the larding to get lightly coloured, glaze it well over, then take it off the spit, and dish it up; garnish it round with groups of button mushrooms, truffles, fine white cocks’-combs, and scollops of red tongue; round the whole place a border of spoon-quenelles de- corated with truffles, and a lamb’s sweetbread larded between each quenelle-; sauce with good Allemande sauce; glaze the lamb brightly, and send to table. 615. BARON OF LAMB LARDED, A LA PRINTANIERE. Trim, lard, and roast a baron of lamb according to the directions contained in the foregoing article; dish it up, pour round it some Printaniére sauce (No. 21), garnish it with groups of small new potatoes first partly boiled, and afterwards fried of a light colour in clarified butter, glaze the lamb all over, and send to table. 616. BARON OF LAMB, A LA JARDINIERE. PREPARE and roast the baron of lamb according to the preceding « directions ; and when dished up, garnish it round with a rich and varied Jardiniére of such vegetables as are in season ; sauce the lamb round with Espagnole sauce, and send to table. 617. BARON OF LAMB, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. PREPARE the baron of lamb as previously directed, dish it up and pour round it a rich Maitre d’ Hotel sauce (No. 43); garnish it round with alternate groups of small buds of cauliflowers, and fried oliye- shaped potatoes ; glaze the lamb well, and send to table. s OX —— > -_ a a ae _ aes ope 4 —— OF ie Cs >» wa ’ * SADDLE OF LAMB. 179 Note.—Hind-quarters of lamb should be dressed in the same man- ner as barons of lamb, and may therefore be garnished with every sort of sauce and garnish used for the latter. When the larding is dispensed with, the whole of the fut as a matter of course should be retained on the surface of the lamb, to pro- tect the meat from losing its juices, and consequently render it unfit for table. _ 618. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA DAUPHINE. SELEctT a moderate-sized saddle of lamb, bone it, and having laid it on the table, season the inside with pepper and salt, and line it with some guenelle-forcemeat of veal or fowl, about an inch in thickness, placing on the forcemeat some fillets of tongue and truffles; after which, fold the skirts of the saddle over—so as to encase the force- meat, &c,, thereby giving it a plump appearance; and in order to secure its shape, bind it in a napkin on which butter has been spread : when the saddle of mutton is rolled up tightly in it, tie the ends with twine. ‘Then place the saddle so prepared on the drainer of an oval braizing-pan, cover it with the bones and trimmings; garnish with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with sufficient good stock to cover the lamb, and set it to braize gently on a moderate fire for about two hours and a half. When the lamb is done, place it on an earthen dish, untie the ends of the napkin, and fold the saddle up tightly, and smooth it in again: fasten the ends as before, and put it in press between two dishes until it is nearly cold. Then, take the lamb out of the napkin, trim it neatly, and cover it over with a coating of well-seasoned reduced Allemande sauce, which must be allowed to set, afterwards being egged over, and then be covered with very fine bread-crumbs mixed with one-fourth part of grated Parmesan cheese; sprinkle some drops of melted fresh butter with a paste-brush over the whole, and put it on a baking sheet in the oven to acquire a light-brown or fawn. colour. The saddle of lamb being ready, dish it up, garnish it round with some bouchées of wild rabbits @ la Pompadour (No. 1010) ; sauce round and under the lamb with some white Italian sauce (No. 138), and send to table. 619. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA GODARD. Bonz, stuff, and braize a saddle of lamb, according to the preceding directions; when done, put it in press between two dishes till cold. It should then be taken out of the napkin, trimmed neatly without removing any of the fat, or diminishing its size, and put into a deep baking sheet with the broth in which it has been braized—previously clarified, and afterwards reduced to half glaze for the purpose; put a buttered oval piece of white paper on the top, and half an hour before dinner, put it in the oven to be warmed and glazed of a fine light colour. Then dish it up, and pour round it a rich ragout d la Godard —composed of cocks’-combs and kernels, button-mushrooms, small sweetbreads cut into scollops, and truffles—the whole to be tossed in some good Allemande sauce. Put a border of large quenelles decorated with truffles, and some larded lamb’s-heart sweetbreads—placed alter- nately round the remove, and send to table. ; N 180 REMOVES OF LAMB, 620. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA FINANCIERE. Prepare a saddle of lamb exactly as the foregoing, and when dished up, garnish it with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188) ; glaze the remove, and send to table. 621. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA ROYALE. For the preparation of this remove, follow the directions for loin of veal d la Royale (No. 592). 622. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA MACEDOINE. Bong, stuff, and braize a saddle of lamb, as for d la Godard (No. 619), warm and glaze it, also, in the same manner; dish it up, garnish it round with a rich and well-prepared Macédoine of vegetables tossed in some Allemande sauce:- surround the remove with a border of arti- choke-bottoms, or small turnips cut in the shape of cups—(boiled in white broth with a lump of sugar and a little salt) and filled—half with green-peas, and the remainder with very small turned or scooped carrots, nicely glazed; glaze the remove, and send to table. 623. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA MILANAISE. PrePaRE and braize a saddle of lamb, as previously directed ; when glazed, dish it up, and garnish it round with macaroni prepared as follows :— Boil one pound of Naples macaroni in two quarts of boiling water, a pat of butter, al ittle salt and mignionette pepper; when done, drain it on a sieve, and afterwards on a clean napkin, cut it into pieces two inches long, and put this into a stewpan with two pats of butter, six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small piece of glaze, a ragout- spoonful of good white sauce, mignionette pepper, and a little salt: toss the whole well together over a stove-fire until quite hot, and then ” use it to place round the remove, as also some truffles, and tongue cut it into small circular scollops; these are to be warmed in a table- spoonful of half glaze, and placed round the remove in alternate groups with the macaroni; glaze the saddle of lamb before serving, and send to table with it a sauceboat containing some of the clarified and reduced broth, in which the lamb has been braized, to be handey round with the remove. CALVES’-HEADS AND OX-CHEEKS, &c. COMPRISING Calf’sehead, @ 7 Anglaise. Ox-cheek braized, a ja Flamande. re plain, with Piqguante sauce. FF a la Polonaise. “a a la Financiére. Ps a P Allemande. » a la Beauvaux. a a la Portuguaise. 2 d la Tortue. Saat, a la Pompadour. ne a la Marigny. 624. CALF’S-HEAD, A L’ANGLAISE. PROcURE a fine fat white scalded calf’s-head, bone it in the manner described for preparing mock-turtle soup (No. 349); then put it inte 7 CALF’S HEAD. 181 a large panful of cold water, in order that it may be thoroughly cleansed, after which, put it on the fire in a large stewpan with cold water, and as soon as it boils, skim it well, and allow it to boil for five minutes, then take it up and put it into cold water to cool. Next, drain it on a napkin, cut the ears out, leaving a sufficient base round then. to allow them to stand up; cut the cheeks, &c., into pieces two inches square, round the angles, and pare off any rough suticle there may be about them; this done, proceed to rub each piece of calf’s-head with lemon-juice, then place the whole, including the tongue, in a large stewpan, with carrot, onion, celery, parsley roots, sweet-basil, a garnished faggot of parsley, &c. four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with half a bottle of sherry or Madeira, and two ladlefuls of good white stock, and set the whole to braize gently on a moderate fire, for about two hours. When the pieces of cealf’s-head are done, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle round the tongue (previously trimmed, glazed, and placed in the centre of the dish) ; then cut the brains into scollops, and place them in the flanks, and at each end place the ears, pre- viousy trimmed and curled; pour some parsley and butter (No. 77) over the remove, and send to table. The calf’s ears should be trimmed as follows :—First drain them upon a napkin, then scrape off all the glutinous surface from the thin part with the edge of a spoon, leaving the white gristly membrane quite clear; wash them in warm water, put them back upon the napkin, and then slit them into narrow stripes, taking care not to run the knife through the ends, but merely from the inner part to within half an inch of the point, so as that, when the ear is turned down, it may present the appearance of a looped frill It is customary to send a piece of boiled streaky bacon on the side- table when calf’s-head is intended to be eaten plain. A boatful of sauce d la Diable (No. 17), as an accessory to plain calf’s-head, is generally preferred to parsley and butter, the latter being considered too insipid. 625, CALF’S-HEAD, PLAIN WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE. PREPARE the calf’s-head as directed in the preceding article; then put about one poun il of chopped beef-suet into a large stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, four cloves, and two blades of mace.; stir the whole with a wooden spoon over the fire until the suet is melted, then add the pulp of two lemons and a small handful of flour: moisten with common white broth or water, add a little salt and a few pepper-corns, and then set the calf’s-head to boil gently for about two hours. When it is done, drain the pieces upon a napkin, and dish them up neatly round the tongue trimmed and glazed, and placed in the centre of the dish; place the ears, after trimming them, at each end, and on either side of the tongue place half the brains (which should be boiled in vinegar and water with a little salt and some fat from the stock-pot), make an incision lengthwise in each half portion of the brains, then pour a well-made Piquante sauce (No. 18) over the whole: garnish round with eight fried eggs and some créutons, and send to table. Calf’s-head, prepared according to the foregoing directions, may also — 182 REMOVES. be served with either Italian, Ravigotie, Tomata, Poivrade, or Poor-man’s sauce, 626. CALF’S-HEAD, A LA FINANCIERE, Bone a calf’s-head, blanch it in boiling water for about ten mi- nutes on the fire, then put it into cold water for ten minutes; drain it upon a napkin, trim off all the rough parts, and cut it into large scollops, leaving the tongue and ears whole, as usual; the brains should be carefully taken out of the head, and boiled separately, as directed in previous cases. The pieces of calf’s-head after being first rubbed over with lemon- juice, should be placed in a braizing-pan with half a bottle of sherry or Madeira, two ladlefuls of good stock, carrot, onion, celery, gar- nished faggot of parsley, &c.; four cloves, two blades of mace anda few pepper-corns; cover with a thickly-buttered oval piece of strong white paper, and put on the lid; then set it to braize gently for about two hours, with live embers on the lid. Twenty minutes before dinner-time, drain the pieces of calf’s-head on to a napkin, dish them up in the form of a wreath, round the base of a fried créustade (pre- viously stuck on the centre of the dish with a little flour and white of ege mixed together), at each end place the ears, on the crdustade place the tongue (separated down the centre, and rather spread out), and the brains laid thereon; around these should be stuck in the croustade six or eight ornamental skewers, each furnished with a double cock’s-comb, a large mushroom, a truffle, and a crayfish; pour round the whole a rich Financiére ragout (No. 188), and send to table. 627. CALF’S-HEAD, A LA BEAUVAUX. SELECT a small, well-shaped white calf’s-head, bone it carefully, as before directed, keeping the skin as whole as possible. When the head has been boned, wash it thoroughly, wipe it with a clean cloth, season inside with pepper and salt, and then fill up the entire vacant Space occasioned by the extraction of the skull and jaws, with a well-seasoned quenelle-forcemeat made of veal, mixed with some chopped parsley and mushrooms; when the calf’s-head is thus again plumped up to its original size, by means of the forcemeat, it must be secured, by sewing up all the apertures with small twine and a truss- ing-needle of proper size. When this part of the process is completed, roil the calf’s-head up tightly in a well-buttered napkin saturated with lemon-juice (to keep the head white) ; then place the calf’s-head im a braizing-pan with one pound of chopped suet, carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot, cloves, mace, pepper-corns, and a spoonful of salt; moisten with good common white stock, cover with the lid, and set it to boil gently for about two hours. About half an hour before dinner-time, take the calf’s-head up on a dish, remove the napkin, trim the ears, slit them and turn them down, that they may appear frilled; then place the calf’s-head, per- fectly drained from any moisture, on the centre of the dish, and remove all the twine with which it has been sewn up, and mask it all over, excepting the ears, with a preparation of four olks of eggs, mixed with a pat of melted butter; and seasoned with pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg; then cover the whole with fine bread- | il eee CALF’ S-HEAD,. 183 crumbs, fried in a sautapan, with a little butter, of a fine bright colour, and place the head in the oven for five mmutes, that the bread-crumbs may dry on, taking care to cover the ears with wet paper to keep them white, and prevent them from cocking up and spoiling their effect. As soon as the bread-crumbs have dried on, remove the paper from the ears, sauce round with a ragout, composed of the tongue cut into scollops, as also the brains, some button-mushrooms, and green gherkins, cut into the shape of olives ; allow these to boil up for two or three minutes in a well-made Potvrade sauce (No. 29); garnish round with some quenelles of veal or chicken, coloured with Ravigotie, or spinach-green (No. 285) ; stick in four silver ornamental skewers, garnished with a crest of red tongue, a large truffle, and a decorated quenelle, and send to table. 628. CALF’S-HEAD, A LA TORTUE. Bonz, blanch, and trim a calf’s-head, cut it up into large scollops, keep the ears whole, neatly trim the pieces, and toss them in the juice of a lemon ; put them into a stewpan, with carrot, onion, celery, ished-faggot, cloves, mace, and a few pepper-corns ; moisten with half a bottle of Madeira or sherry, and two large ladlefuls of good stock ; cover with a well-buttered stiff paper, and put on the lid; set the whole to braize on the stove for about two hours. When the pieces of calf’s-head are done, drain them on a napkin, and afterwards dish them up, in the form of a close wreath, round the base of a fried bread créustade ; place the ears at the ends and on the flanks: if the party be large, two extra ears should be procured, as the four make the dish look much handsomer: next, place the tongue, cut down its centre, and spread out on the top of the créustade ; on this put the brains, which must be kept whole and white, and round these, on the erdustade, should be stuck six ornamental silver skewers, garnished with a double cocks-comb, a large mushroom, a quenelle, a truffie, and a large crayfish; sauce round with a well-made sauce d la Tortué (No. 9) ; garnish-the dish round between the spaces of the ears, with _ four larded and glazed sweetbreads, and eight decorated quenelles, and send to table. 629. CALF’S-HEAD, A LA MARIGNY. PREPARE and braize a calf’s-head as directed for dressing a calf’s- head @ la Beauvauz. When done, take it out of the napkin, and drain all the moisture from it, place the head on a dish, remove the twine used to secure its shape, trim the ears, and then sauce it all over (the ears excepted) with a well-seasoned Ravigotte sauce ; garnish round with a border of crayfish, and green gherkins, and send to table. Note.—It is not eeuret iii in all cases, to garnish each remove as richly as heretofore set forth: many of the accessories, on. every-day occasions, might be regarded as extravagant. What to omit in such eases must be left to the judgment of the experienced cook, acquainted with the means and taste of his master. 184. REMOVES. 630. OX-CHEEK BRAISED, A LA FLAMANDE. Procure two fresh ox-cheeks, bone and trim them, and then place them in a large oval braizing-pan on the drainer, garnish with the usual complement of vevetables, &c., add the trimmings, moisten with — sufficient broth from tie stock-pot to cover the whole, and set them to boil very gently by tre side of the stove-fire for about five hours. When the ox-cheeks are thoroughly braized, and are become quite tender, take them up carefully, and put them in press between two dishes, until cold; then trim them neatly, giving them an oval or oblong shape, and put them into a deep fricandeau pan with the broth in which they have been braized (clarified and reduced to half its original quantity), and set them by in the larder, tili about three quarters of an hour before dishing up; then put the ox-cheeks in the oven, or on a slow fire, to get gradually warm, and to glaze them brightly, with their own stock. Next place them on their dish, the one resting on the other, garnish them round with a border of Brussels-sprouts boiled green, and tossed over the fire in a stewpan, with two pats of butter, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; or when these fail, in their stead use braized cabbages; then add a border of alternate groups of well-prepared, and nicely-glazed carrots and turnips, cut into fancy shapes, and also some small-sized glazed onions. Sauce with an Lspagnole or Poivrade sauce, and send to table. : 631. OX-CHEEK, A LA POLONAISE. Bons and trim two ox-cheeks ; prepare them for braizing as directed in the foregoing case; moisten with half a bottle of sherry, and allow them to simmer on the stove-fire for about ten minutes, add sufficient stock to cover them, and again set them on the stove to boil; skim and put them by the side of the fire, to continue gently boiling for five hours. When the ox-cheeks are sufficiently braized, and are become quite tender, put them im press between two dishes; when cold, trim, and afterwards cut them across the grain, into very thin slices. Then stick a number of triangular créutons of fried bread, in an oval form, on the dish, within two inches of the edge, and within this coronet, place a layer of the thin slices of the ox-cheeks, over which spread some sauce made in the following manner :— Shred the rind of two oranges very thin, and perfectly free from pith, boil it in water for five minutes, drain and refresh it in cold water, and then add to it a small ladleful of good EHspagnole sauce, half a pound of red-currant jelly, four chopped shalots, a little grated nutmeg, and the juice of one lemon; boil the whole together, stirring it the while with a wooden spoon, and use this preparation as directed above. Having thus continued alternately, adding layers of ox- cheek and sauce, until the whole forms a dome; mask it over with the remainder of the sauce, and after smoothing the surface with the blade of a knife, cover it with some light-coloured raspings of roll, bruised and sifted for the purpose. About three-quarters of an hour before dinner, put the dish in the oven, when moderately hot, to allow the preparation to get thoroughly warm; garnish with a border of fried eggs and glazed onions, pour some of the same sauce round it— OX-CHEEKS. 185 this, however, must-be thiner than that directed to be used for mixing with the ox-cheeks—and serve. 632. OX-CHEEKS, A L’ALLEMANDE. BratzeE the ox-cheeks as directed in the foregoing case; when done, put them in press, and after being trimmed, place them on a but- tered baking-sheet, and mask them all over with the following prepara- tion :—Bake some pieces of crumb of bread of a light colour, pound and sift them ; use this powder to mix into a paste with port wine, a table-spoonful of cinnamon-powder, and 2 oz. of pounded sugar ; mix the whole well together, and spread it all over the ox-cheeks. Three quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put the ox-cheeks in the oven, when moderately hot, to get warmed through; then, place them on their dish, garnish round with groups of small quenelles of potatoes (No. 312) and stewed prunes, sauce them round with German sweet sauce (No. 61), and send to table. 633. OX-CHEEKS, A LA PORTUGUAISE, Braizz the ox-cheeks; when done, put them in press, trim and place them in a fricandeau pan, with the clarified and reduced broth in which they have been braized ; and having warmed them in this, and glazed them with it, dish them up; garnish round with a border of eggs, farcis, or stuffed and fried (No. 380), pour some Portuguese sweet sauce (No. 59) round the ox-cheeks, and send to table. 634, OX-CHEEKS, A LA POMPADOUR, BraizeE the ox-cheeks very tender, and after having put them in press, and then trimmed them, mask them over with a coating of reduced Atelet sauce (No. 86); when the sauce has become set by cooling on the ox-cheeks, egg them over and bread-cramb them with very fine bread-crumbs mixed with one fourth of grated Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle over a little butter, place them on a well-buttered baking-sheet, and an hour before dinner, put them in the oven to bake of a fine bright colour; dish them up, garnish round with a ragout of ox-palates in a brown Italian sauce (No. 209), finish with a border of croquettes of ox-palates, and send to table. Note.—Besides the foregoing methods of dressing ox-cheeks, they may also be served with a Jardiniére, Macédoine, tomatas farcis (No. 1160), braized red cabbage, Soubise, or Brétonne purées, stewed peas, or asparagus peas. Although in the preceding cases, it is directed that two ox-cheeks should be used for a remove, it does not follow that in all cases two are requisite ; more frequently, one will prove to be quite sufficient for the purpose. 186 a REMOVES OF PORK AND ROASTED SUCKING PIGS, COMPRISING Boiled Leg of Pork, d P Anglaise. Roast Sucking Pig, d ? Anglaise, ae * a P Allemande. as ~ a la Perigord. Roast Leg of Pork. 7 a la Chipolata, Roast Loin of do. ” 9 a la Provengale. Roast Neck of do. = fe a la Napolitaine. Roast Griskin of do. 635. BOILED LEG OF PORK, A L’ ANGLAISE, Saw off the shank bone of a salted leg of dairy-fed pork, then put it into a large braizing-pan or stock-pot : fill this nearly full with cold water, and add six carrots, as many turnips, one head of celery, and an onion stuck with three cloves. Set the pork to boil gently by the side of the stove fire for about three hours—the exact time depending on -ts size. While the pork is boiling, trim a dozen and a half of small — turnips and as many young carrots, boil these separately, and reserve — them for garmshing the remove. When the pork is done, drain, trim, and dish it up; place the carrots and turnips alternately round the remove, pour some plain gravy under it, put a ruffle on the bone, and send to table. A peas-pudding is usually served from the side-board, made as follows: soak a pint of yellow split peas in cold water for about six hours ; drain and tie them rather loosely in a napkin or pudding-cloth, and boil them with the pork—about three hours will suffice. Take them up, pound them in a mortar with two pats of fresh butter, and rub them through a fine wire-sieve; then put this purée into a stew- pan, add the yolks of four eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mix the whole well together with a wooden spoon, and after having spread a ~ napkin with fresh butter, place the purée in the centre, draw the corners up on the left hand, and with the right tie up the pudding with string ; then place it to boil for an hour, after which turn it out carefully on to a vegetable dish, and serve. 636. BOILED LEG OF PORK, A L’ALLEMANDE. Pickie a leg of pork with four ounces of saltpetre, ditto of moist sugar, half-a-pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, sweet-basil, and marjoram, thyme, and bay-leaf, and the usual quantity of common salt; boil it as directed in the foregoing article. When done, dish it up, and after garnishing it with sauér-kraut (No. 165), surround it with a border of glazed carrots, turnips, and onions ; pour gome Poivrade sauce (No. 29) over it, and send to table. 637. ROAST LEG OF PORK, A L’ANGLAISE. Procure a leg of fresh dairy-fed pork; make a large incision just below the knuckle, between the skin and meat, for the purpose of introducing the stuffing of sage and onion, which must be secured by sewing it up with small twine ; then with a sharp-pointed knife score it all over in the following manner: with the left hand hold the pork firmly, and with a very sharp knife score the skin across in parallel — ae 1h REMOVES OF PORK. 187 lines a quarter of an inch apart; then spit the joint, and roast 7 for about two hours and a half; when done, dish it up, pour a rich brown _ gravy under it, and send to table with apple sauce. The stuffing for the pork should be thus prepared: chop a dozen sage leaves and six large onions, boil these in water for three minutes, and after having drained them on a sieve, put them into a stew-pan with pepper and salt, and a pat of butter; set the stuffing to simmer gently over a very slow fire for ten minutes, and then use it as directed © - above. 638. ROAST LOIN OF PORK, TRIM, score, and separate the bones of the loin of pork with a small chopper or meat saw ; make an incision in the upper part of the loin for placing the stuffing, sew it up with small twine, and having passed a strong iron skewer through it lengthwise, tie it firmly on to a spit at bothends. About an hour and a quarter before dinner-time, put the pork down to the fire to roast, and when done dish it up; pour some brown gravy under it, garnish it round with a border of small potatoes fried of a light colour, and send to table with apple sauce. 639. ROAST NECK OF PORK. Saw the chine bone neatly off, stuff the neck of pork with sage and onion, spit, roast, and dish it up as directed for the loin, and serve. 640. ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK. Tue piece called griskin is that part of the pig which is cut from the side of a bacon-hog, being the lean from the neck and loin: this should be lightly sprinkled with salt the day before dressing it for table ; it must then have a long iron skewer passed through it length- wise, and tied on to a spit. About an hour and a quarter before dinner put it to roast, and when the griskin has been down an hour, shake some flour over it with a dredger, and afterwards sprinkic some chopped sage and onions upon it. When the pork is done, dish it Up, pour some brown gravy under it, and send to table with two sauceboats containing apple and sage and onion sauce, the latter to be prepared as follows: chop a dozen sage-leaves and four onions, and after having boiled them two minutes in water, drain, and put them in a stew-pan with’a pat of butter, pepper and salt ; set these to simmer on a very slow fire for ten minutes, and then add half-a-pint of good brown gravy, boil the whole together for five minutes, and serve. 641. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A. L’ ANGLAISE, In selecting a sucking-pig for the table, those of about three weeks old are generally preferred, their meat being more delicate than when allowed to grow larger. Let the pig be prepared for dressing in the usual way, that is, scalded, drawn, &c., pettitoes cut off, and the oe filled with stuffing previously prepared for the purpose as ollows: chop two large onions and a dozen sage-leaves, boil them in water for two minutes, and after having drained the sage and onion on to a sieve, place it in a stew-pan with a »at of butter, pepper and salt, and set the whole to simmer gently for ten minutes on a very slow fire; then add a double handful of bread-crumbs,.two pats of butter, and the yolks of two eggs; stir the whole over the fire for five minutes, and then use the stuffing as before directed. When the sucking-pig is stuffed, sew the paunch up with twine, spit the pig for roasting, carefully fastening it on the spit at each end with small iron skewers, which should be run through the shoulders and hips to- secure it tightly, so that it may on no account slip round when down to roast. The pig will require about two hours to roast thoroughly, and should be frequently basted with a paste-brush dipped in salad oil. (Oil is better adapted for this purpose than either dripping or butter, giving more crispness to the skin; when basted with oil, the pig will, while roasting, acquire a more even, and a finer colour.) ‘When done, take it up from the fire on the spit, and immediately cut the head off with a sharp knife, and lay it on a plate in the hot closet. Next, cut the pig in two, by dividing it first with a sharp knife straight down the back to the spine, finishing with a meat-saw; a large dish should be held under the pig while it is thus being divided, into which it may fall when completely cut through; place the two sides back to back on the dish, without disturbing the stuffing, split the head in two, put the brains in a small stew-pan, trim off the snout and jaws, leaving only the cheeks and ears, place these one at each end of the dish, surround the remove with a border of small potatoes fried of a light colour, ina little clarified butter; pour under some rich brown gravy, and send to table with the following sauce: to the brains, put into a small stew-pan as before directed, add a spoonful of blanched chopped parsley, pepper, and salt, a piece of glaze the size of a large walnut, some well-made butter sauce, and the juice of a lemon: stir the whole well together over the fire, and when quite hot, send it to table separately in a boat, to be handed round with the sucking-pig. | 642. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA PERIGORD. Procure a plump fresh killed sucking-pig, and fill the paunch with the following preparation. Wash and thoroughly clean two pounds of fresh truffles, pare them and afterwards cut them into pieces resembling small walnuts, but without trimming them much; pound the parings and trimmings in a mortar with about two ounces of butter ; then put them into a stew-pan with the truffles, and add thereto about one pound of scraped fat bacon, a bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of thyme and sweet-basil chopped fine, some grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a small clove of garlic, and half-a-pound of fat livers of fowls pounded for the purpose. Set the whole over a moderate fire, stirring it the while with a wooden spoon: when the trufiles lave simmered on the stove for about ten minutes, take them off and allow them to cool, fill the paunch of the sucking-pig with the above, sew it up with twine, spit and roast it as directed in the preceding article ; when done, dish up in the same manner, taking care to send with it all the truffles: pour some Périgueux sauce (No. 23) under it and send to table. 643. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA CHIPOLATA. Roast sixty chestnuts, peel and then boil them with a quart of consemmée for twenty minutes: reserve half in a small stewpan, and mix lisse REMOVES OF PORK = ites 2 : AND SUCKING-PIGS. 189 the remainder with one pound of pork sausage-meat, and use this kind of stuffing to fill the paunch of a sucking-pig; sew it up with a trussing-needle and string, spit, and roast it in the usual manner: and when done, dish it up as directed in the foregoing cases; ob- serving, that the stuffing should be kept as whole as possible in the separated sides. Garnish with a richly varied Chipolata ragout (No. 190), and again round this place eight decorated: quenelles ; a dozen large cray-fish should also be placed up the centre, one over- laying another: glaze the pig and serve. 644, ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA PROVENCALE. _ Roast sixty large chestnuts, remove their husks while yet hot, and after pounding them in a mortar with four ounces of butter, rub the produce through a wire sieve, and put the purée into a stewpan; add thereto, a few chives, sweet-basil, parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf well chopped, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the yolks of three eggs; mix well together, and use this preparation to fill the paunch of a plump sucking-pig, and roast it in the manner already directed. Then, cut it up and place it upon the dish, garnish the remove with a border of tomatas aw gratin (No. 1160), pour some Gasconne or Provengale sauce under it, and send to table. 645. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA NAPOLITAINE, Taxes half a pound of polenta,* mix it in a stewpan with a quart of good consommé, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same quantity of butter; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir the whole on the fire quickly till it boils, and then continue stirring it on the fire until it assumes the appearance of a soft paste, when add four ounces of picked Sultana raisins and a small pot of orange marmalade; mix the whole lightly together, and with it fill the paunch of the sucking-pig: roast it in the usual way, divide and dish it up, garnish with a border of polpettes (No. 1062), pour a well-made Napolitaine sauce (No. 63) under the pig, glaze the remove, and send to table. Note—In addition to the foregoing different methods for dressing sucking-pigs, they may also be served d la inanciére, with Poivrade, tomata, Maitre d’ Hotel, Piquante, Robert, or Brétonne sauce. BRAIZED HAMS, COMPRISING Braized Ham, with Spinach, &c. Westphalia Ham, roasted, d@ Ja St. James. Westphalia Ham, d / Essence. re ad la Parisienne. - baked. Granada and Bayonne Hams, 646. BRAIZED HAM, WITH SPINACH, ETC. WueEn about to dress a ham, care must be taken after it has been trimmed, and the thigh-bone removed, that it be put to soak ina large * A kind of farina much used in Italy, obtained from Indian corn, and procurable at CROSSE and BLACKWELL’s, Soho Square, 190 REMOVES OF HAM, 7 ‘ pan filled with cold water; the length of time 1¢ should remain in soak, depending partly upon its degree of moisture, partly whether the ham be new or seasoned. If the ham readily yields to the pressure of the hand, it is no doubt new, and this is the case with most of those sold in London in the spring season; for such as these, a few hours’ soaking will suffice; but when hams are properly sea- soned, they should be soaked for twenty-four hours, Foreign hams, however, require to be soaked much longer, varying in time from two to four days and nights. The water in which they are soaked should be changed once every twelve hours in winter, and twice during that time in summer: it is necessary to be particular also in scraping off the slimy surface from the hams, previously to replacing them in the water to finish soaking. ~ When the ham has been trimmed and soaked, let it be boiled in water for an hour, and then scraped and washed in cold water; place it in a braizing-pan with two carrots, as many onions, a head of celery, garnished faggot, two blades of mace, and four cloves; moisten with sufficient common broth to float the ham, and then set it on the stove to braize very gently for about four hours. To obtain tenderness and mellowness, so essential in a well-dressed ham, it must never be allowed to boil, but merely to simmer very gently by a slow fire. This rule applies also to the braizing of all salted or cured meats. ‘When the ham is done, draw the pan in which it has braized away from the fire, and set it to cool in the open air, allowing the ham to remain in the braize—by this means it will retain all its moisture— for when the ham is taken out of the braize as soon as done, and put on a dish to get cold, all its richness exudes from it. The ham having partially cooled in its braize, should be taken out and trimmed, and. afterwards placed in a braizing-pan with some of its own stock; and about three-quarters of.an hour before dinner, put either in the oven or on a slow fire. When warmed through, place the ham on a baking- dish in the oven to dry the surface, then glaze it; replace it in the oven again for about three minutes to dry it, and glaze it again; by that time the ham, if properly attended to, will present a bright appearance. Put it wow on‘its dish, and garnish it with well-dressed spimach (No, 1155), placed round the ham in table-spoonfuls, shaped like so many eggs; pour some bright Hspagnole sauce round the base, put a ruffle on the bone, and serve. Note.—Any of our home-cured hams, dressed according to the fore- going directions, may also be served with a garnish of asparagus-peas, young carrots, a Jardiniére, Macédoine, green-peas, broad-beans, French- eans, or Brussels-sprouts. 647. WESTPHALIA HAM, A L’ESSENCE. T'r1m and remove the thigh-bone from a Westphalia ham, and let it soak in cold water for two or three days, according to the probable length of time it may have been cured; then boil it in water for an hour, and after having washed it in cold water, put it into a large braizing-pan, with two carrots, as many onions, a head of celery, a faggot of parsley and green onions, thyme, sweet-basil, and bay-leaf, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with two glasses of brandy, half a bottle of sherry, and sufficient broth to float the ham. . f . e 7 BRAIZED AND BAKED HAMS. 191 - Then set the ham to boil, or rather to simmer, very gently on a slow fire, from five to six hours: taking care, during the process of braiz- _ ing, to probe it occasionally after the first four hours, in order thereby to ascertain how much longer it may be necessary for it to remain on the fire to effect the desired purpose. When the ham is braized sufficiently tender, and after it has been allowed to remain in its own liquor for an hour or so, drain it on to a dish, divest it of the rind to within four inches of the knuckle-bone: this portion of the rind must be cut with a small sharp knife, so as to _ form a neat design in the shape of leaves, palms, or scollops, disposed in a fan-like form. Trim the fat of the ham smooth, without removing any more of it than is really necessary to give it a neat appearance. Put the ham in the oven on a baking-sheet for ten minutes, first absorbing every particle of grease from the surface with a clean eloth; then glaze it, replace it in the oven again for five minutes; glaze it once more, and place it on its dish; garnish it round with any of the dressed vegetables indicated for Braized Ham, with pane &e. (No. 646), sauce with bright Hspagnole sauce, mixed before re- duction with a glass of sherry, and about a pint of the liquor in which the ham has been braized; place a ruffle on the bone, and send to table. | *m 648, WESTPHALIA HAM, BAKED. Trim, and partially bone, a Westphalia ham, by removing the thigh-bone ; soak it, as usual, in cold water, for forty-eight hours, at least, and afterwards boil it in water for half an hour; this part of the operation should be executed in time to allow the ham to soak a day and night, previously to its being dressed in some wine mirepoix as, 236) in a deep baking-dish. Cover the ham with two sheets of oiled paper, and over the whole lay a covering of paste, such as is used to cover venison with, and applied similarly to a pie-crust, taking care to secure it thoroughly all round, so as to prevent the escape of the volatile properties of the essence of the ham, &c.,; which by condensation, and subsequent absorption, impart to the ham that peeuliarly fine flavour which renders this method of dressing hams so much esteemed by gastronomes. Having prepared the ham in every particular according to the above directions, about five hours before dinner-time, let it be put in the oven to bake slowly, observing that the heat of the oven should be moderate, in order that the moisture be not reduced, so as to render the ham dry, which would spoil it entirely. When the ham has been in the oven about four hours, take it out of its braize, trim it, and then place it on a baking-sheet » in the oven, to dry the surface; glaze it in the usual manner, and after having clarified the mirepoia mn which the ham has been baked, add as much thereof as will suffice to give flavour to some Espagnole sauce, reduce it to a proper consistency, and use it ta pour round the ham, when sent to table. Hams dressed according to the foregoing method, may be garnished as follows :—d la Financiere, a la Périqueux, @ la Parisiénne, ad la Macédoine, d la Jardiniére, a la Flamande ; with stewed peas, asparagus-peas, young carrots, spinach, broad-beans, &c. Note.—If the ham, dressed as above, be intended to be eaten cold, it should be allowed to remain in its braize, until it becomes set in 4 192 REMOVES OF HAM. jelly, it must be then taken out, trimmed, glazed, and dished up, with some aspic-jelly, made with the addition of the essence of ham. 649. WESTPHALIA HAM, ROASTED A LA ST, JAMES. PREPARE a Westphalia ham in every respect according to the first part of the previous directions, and having allowed it to steep in the mirepoix the allotted time, run a large iron skewer through it, and fasten it at each end on to the spit with string; next reduce the mirepoiz,, vegetables, &c., of which it is composed, and cover the under part of the ham therewith ; then wrap the whole of the ham up with large sheets of cartridge-paper, previously well oiled for the purpose; over the paper put a covering of venison paste, as is usual when about to prepare venison for roasting. Cover the said coating of flour and water paste, with greased paper, and tie on this with string. About five hours before the ham is required for table, put it down to roast before a moderate fire; when it has been down about three hours and a half, take it up, make a hole in the paste, and with a funnel, infuse half a pint of brandy, or in preference to this, if you have it, as much Malaga wine; stop the hole up with paste, and put the ham down to the fire to roast for twenty minutes longer ; then take it up, and remove it carefully from the spit, so as not to lose any portion of the essence contained within the coating of crust that surrounds the ham. Trim the ham, and set it to dry on a baking-sheet in the oven, glaze it and dish it up, using the essence reserved for the pur- pose, in order to give flavour to the sauce intended to be served with it. Westphalia hams, thus dressed, may be served with any of the garnishes described as appropriate for baked hams. 650. BRAIZED HAM, A LA PARISIENNE, * = i SSS SSS 2 That BAZ ZZ of3323: Es "Ze Osea LS DET Trim, soak, and boil a ham, either Westphalia or home-cured, as the case may be; when it has boiled in water about an hour, take 1% up and put it into cold water, and after having scraped the rind clean, place it in an oval braizing-pan, with two carrots, as many onions, a head of celery, and garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with a glass of brandy and half a bottle of sherry, and sufficient broth to cover the surface the ham; put the lid on, and as soon as it has boiled, set the pan on a slow fire, to continue gently braizing for about five hours and a half. When the ham is done, take it up and trim it, leaving, as usual, enough of the rind adhering to the knuckle part, and on this cut out (with the point of a sharp * Note, All foreign hams are imported in perfection by CROSSE and BLACKWELL, Soho Square, , REMOVES OF VENISON. 1938 knife) an ornament resembling leaves, or scollops, spread out in a fan-like form; glaze the ham, and put it on its dish, raised on an oval créustade, two inches and a half high, formed to the shape of the ham, cut round in flutes, and fried of a light colour ; round the base, place a dozen or fifteen small fluted crdustades of fried bread, ‘filled with green-peas, asparagus-heads, carrots and turnips, scooped out in the form of very small olives, and nicely glazed. Glaze the ham, put the paper ruffle on the bone, and serve. Send some bright Lspagnole sauce, mixed with some of the essence of ham, previous to reduction of the sauce, in a sauceboat, to be served with the ham from the sideboard, when it is carved. Note.—Granada, Bayonne, and foreign hams in general, are pre- se for the table, according to the directions given for dressing estphalia hams. REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROEBUCK, COMPRISING _ Haunch of Venison, d ? Anglaise. Haunch of Red Deer, ¢ la Kinnaird. dl Allemande. Necks of Red Deer, ¢ la Marie Stuart. Be d la St. George. » a ia St. Andrew. Haunch of Red Deer roasted, d ??Ecossaise. Fillets of Red Deer, a la Royale, =! a la Glengarry. 651, HAUNCH! OF VENISON ROASTED, A L’ANGLAISE. Saw off the shank-bone, remove the sinew, pare away the dark drv skin from the skirt, and also the dried suface of the under part. Then cover the haunch with a large sheet of buttered paper, and over that, place a covering of flour and water paste, about half an inch in thickness ; envelope the whole with two large sheets of cartridge- paper, and having fastened these on with string, place the venison in a cradie-spit, or, if that be wanting, the haunch of venison should'be first put on the common spit, preparatory to its being covered as aforesaid. If the haunch be a fine one, it should be allowed from four hours to four and a half to roast, and about twenty minutes . before it is done, the paste and paper should be removed, and a little salt sprinkled over it. Then with a dredger-box shake over some flour to froth and colour it; baste it with four ounces of fresh butter, and about five minutes after, take the haunch up from the fire, place it on its dish, pour a rich brown gravy under it, put a paper ruffle on the bone, and send to table, with a sauceboat filled with sweet sauce (No. 65). 652. HAUNCH OF VENISON, A L’ALLEMANDE, Tim and remove the spine. bone from a small haunch of venison, place it in an oval braizing-pan with four carrots, four onions, two heads of celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, and two blades of mace ; moisten with a bottle of red wine, and sufficient broth to cover the surface of the venison; lay on it a buttered paper, and Oo 194 REMOVES OF VENISON put on the lid, and after having allowed it to boil on a brisk stove-fite, place 1¢ in the oven or on a moderate fire to continue braizing very gently for about from five to six hours—taking care to moisten the surface frequently with its own braize. When the venison is done, take it up on a deep baking-dish, put about a pint of its own broth under it, trim it neatly and mask it all over with a thick coating of the following preparation: bake some slices of bread of a light-brown colour, and afterwards pound and sift them, put one pound of this into a basin, and add thereto half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, four ounces of fine sugar, and as much port wine as will suffice to moisten the whole into a thick paste; use this to cover the haunch of venison, smooth it over with the blade of a knife, and put it in the hot closet to dry the surface of the crust. When about to send to table, place the venison on a dish, pour some Victoria cherry sauce (No. 64) round it, garnish with alternate groups of prunes stewed in wine, and potato quenelies ; put a ruffle on the bone and serve. 653. HAUNCH OF VENISON, A LA ST, GEORGE. Trim a haunch of venison in the usual manner, and with the point of a small knife make a circular incision about eight inches in diameter, just below the knuckle, on the upper part of the haunch, and with a large knife remove the surface of the part so marked out, in order to leave the place bare, preparatory to its being thickly and neatly larded as for a fricandeau. Then prepare the venison for braizing—in every respect following the directions given for that part of the process in the preceding article. Having carefully and frequently moistened the surface of the venison during the time it is braizine and kept a supply of live embers of charcoal on the lid of the braizing- pan, the venison, when done, will present, if properly attended to, a bright appearance. It should then be taken up to drain on to a common dish, and after being glazed, and dished up with a rich /inan- ciére ragout (No. 188), in a Poivrade sauce made with port wine, garnish the haunch with eight ornamental silver skewers, each furnished with a large double white cock’s-comb, a large black trufile, a cray-fish, and a decorated quenelle ; put a handsome ruffle on the bone, and send to table. 654, HAUNCH OF RED DEER ROASTED, A L’ECOSSAISE. PREPARE and roast this kind of venison as described for dressing a haunch of venison d l’ Anglaise ; observing that it is necessary to allow it to hang longer than any other sort before dressing it, as it will be found to eat tough, if due attention be not paid to the time of keeping it. 655. HAUNCH OF RED DEER, A LA GLENGARRY, » Trim and remove the whole of the chine-bone of a haunch of red deer, saw off the shank and scrape the leg-bone so as to show about an inch. Then pare off the whole of the surface, (excepting the fat part,) in an oval form, and lard it closely like a fricandeau ; place the haunch in a large earthen pan with sliced carrot and onion, parsley, bay-leaves, and thyme, cloves, mace, and bruised pepper-corns, addin to these a gallon of common vinegar, a handful of salt, and half a gallon of water ; let the haunch steep in this pickle for about ten days, — | | ' ee er. - y eae ¢ v : F j HAUNCH AND NECK OF RED DERER 195 _ taking care to turn it over twice a-day, and at the expiration of that tame, the venison will be fit for dressing. After the venison has been marinaded, place it in a large oval braizing-pan, and garnish with four carrots, four onions, four heads of celery, two garnished faggots of parsley, &c., eight cloves, and four blades of mace ; moisten with a bottle of Madeira, and three large ladlefuls of good broth: cover with a sheet of thick brown paper well buttered, let it boil, and then place the lid on with live embers of charcoal upon it, and put the pan on a moderate stove-fire to braize gently for seven hours—moistening the larding of the venison fre- quently with its own liquor, by which means when the venison is done, it will be nicely glazed. It should now be taken up on to a baking sheet, and placed in the oven for a few minutes to dry the larding: then glaze and dish it up. Pour a well-made Poivrade sauce (No. 29) under it, garnish it round with quenelles of grouse, bread- crumbed and fried, and at each end place groups of venison fry ; put a ruffle on the leg-bone, and send to table with sweet sauce, separately in a boat. | 056. HAUNCH OF RED DEER, A LA KINNAIRD. Prepare and dress a haunch of red deer exactly as the foregoing ; when done, glazed and dished up, garnish it round with alternate groups of fried potatoes (cut in the shape of large olives, and fried in clarified butter) and round potato croquettes; pour a well-made sweet sauce (No. 66) under it and send to table. 657. NECKS OF RED DEER, A LA MARIE STUART. To make a handsome remove, two necks are required; from these, saw off the chine-bones and shorten the ribs to about five inches in length ; then remove the whole of the sinewy covering from the meaty part of the necks, leaving a perfectly even surface, which must be larded closely in the usual manner—observing that when about trim- ming the necks of deer, care must be taken to leave the whole of the fat that covers the ribs. When the necks have been larded, marinade them in the pickle prescribed for the haunch; and allow them to steep in this about six days and nights, when they will be ready for dressing. Take them out and prepare them for braizing in like manner to the haunch, proceeding in all respects the same way. When done, take them up on to a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven to dry the larding for a few minutes, glaze them, and place them on their dish in the form of a Chevaux-de-frise: this is effected by placing the necks on their base, and allowing the rib-bones to fall over, or between each other, showing the larded parts outside. Garnish them with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), and a border of quenelles of pheasant dla Richeliew (No. 1004), at each end: and along - the ridge occasioned by the meeting of the rib-bones, place a line of trimmed cray-fish ; glaze the larding of the venison, and serve. 658. NECKS OF RED DEER, A LA ST. ANDREW. PREPARE and braize two necks of red deer in the manner last men- _ tioned; when done, glaze and dish them up after the same directions; garnish with a rich Minanciére ragout (No. 188), with Poivrade sauce ; | surround them with a border of quenelles of grouse, decorated with 0 2 196 REMOVES OF TURKEY. truffles: at each end place a crdustade of bread cut in the shape of a vase, anu fried of a light colour, and fill it with a group of four large truffles; and on the flanks of the dish, put a group of large cray-fish: glaze the larding, and send to table. ~ 659, FILLETS OF RED DEER, A LA ROYALE. Taxer out the fillets of two necks of red deer, which must be cut with part of the lom adhering to them; trim and lard them all over _ the upper surface, after which steep them in a marinade (No. 233) for six days. Then proceed to dress them in the same manner as directed for the haunch d la Glengarry. When the fillets are done, take them out of their braize on to a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven for a few minutes to dry the larding; then glaze them nicely, and afterwards dish them up, side-by-side, on an oval créustade of fried bread, about two inches high, and cut round in flutes; garnish with a ragout composed as follows: braize six pork sausages, and after they have been allowed to cool, cut them up and throw the pieces into a large bain-marie; to these add an equal quantity of round balls of streaky bacon (previously braized), some button mushrooms and green gherkins. A rich Poivrade sauce must be poured on the ingredients ; let the whole boil on the stove-fire for two minutes, pour the ragout round the fillets, and place a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312) (rolled in fried bread-crumbs) round the edge of the dish, and serve. REMOVES OF TURKEY AND CAPONS, a ee ee ee COMPRISING Roast Turkey, a Ja Perigord. Capon, a ja Macedoine, 5 a la Chipolata. » @& la Printaniére. sd dl? Anglaise. » G& PIvoire. ah ad la Financiére. 9 au qros sel. Boiled Turkey, with Celery sauce. 3, @& Plistragon. $3 with Oyster sauce, » @la Périgord, Capon stuffed with Truffles, ad /a Périgord. », and Rice. » ala Godard. » & la Milanaise. 1, la Chipolata. »» with Macaroni. 9, @? Anglaise. » with Noutlles. » a& la Jardiniere. 660. ROAST TURKEY, A LA PERIGORD.- For this purpose, choose a fine young hen turkey, make an incision at the back of the neck, and through it draw out the entrails, &c. ; with a knife cut away the vent and close the opening thus made, by sewing it up with twine, then singe off the hairs, and by scalding the jegs, divest them of their black skin. The neck should then be cut off close into the back, and the crop left entire; clip the talons and claws, wipe the turkey clean, and lay it upon a napkin. With a strong kitchen knife break the breast-bone, and after detaching the angular part, remove it with the fingers. Previous to this operation some ae should be prepared as follows, to be used in stuffing the turkey :— cep about four pounds of truffles thoroughly washed ; peel and ROAsr TURKEY. _ 197 _ eut them into pieces the size of a small wainut; place these in a stew- pan, and after pounding the parings with about two pounds of fat ham or bacon, add them to the truffles. Season with mignionette pepper aad salt, grated nutmeg and chopped bay-leaf and thyme, and one clove of garlic ; a few fat livers of poultry may also be added, after being ounded separately. Set the stewpan containing the foregoing ingre- ients on a slow fire, and allow them to simmer very gently for about half an hour, stirring them occasionally with a wooden spoon. They - should be removed from the stove, and after allowing this preparation time to get partially set by cooling, proceed to stuff the turkey with at; keep the crop full, and with asmall trussing-needle and twine draw the crop up in a purse-like form, and fasten the ends of the twine to the back of the turkey so as effectually to close up the paunch. The turkey must then be placed upon an earthen dish, and put away in the larder till the next day, (time permitting,) when it should be trussed in the usual manner for roasting. ? The turkey when placed on a spit for roasting should have the breast covered with thin layers of fat bacon, and the entire of the turkey should be carefully wrapped round with thick paper well buttered, and securely fastened on to the spit at each end with string. It should then be roasted, and care should be taken when about to remove it from the spit, that the crop is not torn. Dish up, and glaze it, pour under it a rich Périgueux sauce (No. 23), garnish with large quenelles of fowl, and truffles, and serve. The quenelles and truffles are, however, not indispensable to the completion of this remove. 661 ROAST TURKEY, A LA CHIPOLATA. Draw and prepare a turkey for stuffing, fill it with well-seasoned veal stuffing and chestnuts, or, if preferred, pork sausage-meat may be substituted for the veal stuffing. The chestnuts are prepared as follows :—Take about sixty chestnuts, and after splitting them across the outer skin, fry them with a little butter in a frying-pan until they shed their husks easily ; when peeled, boil them in a little good consommé till done: half should then be re- served to be put in the sauce, and the remainder used as directed above. The turkey being thus prepared, truss and cover it with thin layers of fat bacon as directed in the foregoing case, and having roasted it of a light colour, dish it up and garnish with alternate groups of the ingredients composing the Chipolata ragout (No. 190), pour some of the sauce round the remove, and send to table. 662. ROAST TURKEY, A L’ANGLAISE. Srurr a turkey with some well-seasoned veal stuffing, let it be trussed in the usual manner, and previously to putting it down to roast, cover it with thin layers of fat bacon, which should be secured on with buttered paper tied round the turkey, so as entirely to envelop it on the spit; then roast it, and when done, dish it up, garnish with stewed chestnuts, and small pork sausages, nicely fried; pour a rich Poivrade sauce (No. 29) round it, glaze the turkey, and send to table. 663. ROAST TURKEY, A LA FINANCIERE. Tur turkey may be stuffed either with veal stuffing or quenelle of fowl; it should be roasted in the usual manner, and when done, dishe¢ 198 REMOVES OF TURKEY, up and garnished with a rich Financiére ragout (No. 188); at each end — place a larded sweetbread, and at the sides, a sweetbread decorated with scollops of truffles inserted in the form of a rose; between these should be placed groups of large truffles and quenelles of fowl; glaze the turkey and send to table. As this is rather a sumptuous kind of garnish, suitable for great occasions only, the sweetbreads, large trufiles, &c., may be dispensed with, and the Financiére ragout only retained. 564, BOILED TURKEY, WITH CELERY SAUCE, Draw a fine young hen turkey, and remove the angular part of the breast-bone, stuff it with veal stuffing, and truss it for boilmg; wrap some buttered paper round it, and place it in an oval braizing-pan with carrot, onion, one head of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; add as much white poéle (No. 230), or white stock, as will suffice to cover the turkey, then set it on a stove to boil; it should after that be removed to the side, or placed on a slackened stove to continue gently boiling till done; then take it up out of the braize, remove all the string, &c., and set it to drain upon anapkin; dish it up, pour over it a well-made purée of celery (No. 110), place round it some stewed heads of celery, and send to table. 665. BOILED TURKEY, WITH OYSTER SAUCE, Tue turkey should be boiled as directed in the last article; when done, dish it up, and previously to sending it to table, pour over it some well-made oyster sauce (No. 50), and serve. 666. CAPON STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES, A LA PERIGORD. Tus should be prepared according to the directions given for dressing a turkey after the same fashion (No. 660). 667. CAPON, A LA GODARD. THE capon being drawn and singed, trim the feet and wings; then remove the angular part of the breast-bone by inserting a strong- bladed knife, taking care not to tear the breast nor cut the fillets. Next, cut the under part of the thighs close up to the bend of the joint, and by introducing the finger through the vent, loosen the skin all round the thighs in order to facilitate the slipping of the legs inside, so as to show the feet only. Then lay the capon flat on its breast, and having turned the skin of the breast upon the back, and twisted the pinions round to make them he even with the back, run a trussing- needle and string through the pinion on the left, pass again through the lower joint of the pinion, and from thence through the upper joints of the thighs; the needle must afterwards be brought round and inserted through the other wing in the same manner; the strings should then be drawn tight, and fastened. The legs must now be secured by running the needle through the upper part, leaving the drum-sticks under, and then again the needle should be drawn through the back, and the strings tightened to secure their position; the tail- end must be pushed into the vent, and the string passed through it twice (up and down), and tied: all this giving to the capon an appearance of plumpness. It should then be rubbed with half a lemon, ani wrapped in a sheet of buttered paper (to keep it white), and AND CAPONS. 199° Kee R= Nye penene ene =~ Se SSS placed in a stewpan with some white poéle or stock, to braize; for which purpose it must be first put on the stove-fire, and after it has boiled, placed by the side to continue gently simmering for about an hour and a quarter. Just before dinner-time, take the capon out of the braize and drain it on to a napkin; remove the strings, ornament the breast with some contisés fillets of fowls, dish it up, and garnish it with a richly-composed ragout a la Godard (No. 187), and serve. When this remove is intended for a large party, it will be necessary to serve two capons; in which case, an ornamental créustade of bread should be put in the centre of the dish, and the capons at each end, placing at either ends of the dish, a fine larded heart-sweetbread ; two nicely-trimmed calf’s ears with a black truffle in each, should also be placed on the flanks. Fill up the intervening spaces with groups of quenelles of fowl, large truffles, cocks’-combs, and mushrooms; in the centre of the créustade put either a larded sweetbread, or a group of trufiles—or these may be replaced by inserting six ornamental skewers garnished each with a large double cock’s-comb, a mushroom, a truffle, a guenelle, and a large cray-fish. Sauce the remove with Allemande or Béchamel, and serve. 668. CAPONS, A LA CHIPOLATA. TuEsE are dressed in the same way as turkeys a la Chipolata (No. 66). 669. CAPONS, A L’ANGLAISE. Truss and boil two plump capons, and when they are done, dish them up, placing a neatly-trimmed tongue between them; garnish round with boiled heads of broccoli or cauliflower, sauce the capons with a rich Béchamel sauce (No. 5), glaze the tongue, and serve. 670. CAPONS, A LA JARDINIERE, THESE should be boiled and dished up as in the foregoing case. Garnish them with alternate groups of prepared vegetables, such as 200 REMOVES OF CAPONS, smal. carrots, turnips, flowrets of cauliflower, green-peas, asparagus- heads, and French-beans cut in the form of diamonds. Sauce the capons with Béchamel sauce, glaze the tongue and serve. In some cases the tongue may be replaced by an ornamental créustade of bread, fried of a light colour, and filled with mashed potatoes, in which should be inserted some young carrots, and French-beans (cut in the form of pointed olives), and placed in alternate rows. 671. CAPONS, A LA MACEDOINE, Tuis method is very similar to the foregoing, with this exception, that the capons when dished up, should be garnished with a well- prepared Macédoine (No. 148) ; a border of very small heads of cauli- flowers and. bundles of: sprue asparagus about two inches long, should also be placed alternatively round the edges of the dish; sauce with Allemande, and serve. 672 CAPONS, A LA PRINTANIERE. Truss and boil two fat capons, and when they are done, dish them up with a nicely-trimmed and glazed tongue, in the centre; sauce them with a Printaniére sauce (No. 21); garnish them round with a border of small deep cups, cut out of young turnips; these when boiled in white broth with a little butter, sugar, and salt, should be drained on a napkin, and filled with carrots scooped out im the form of very small peas or olives, and also with young green-peas: these cups when disposed alternately round the dish, will be found to pro- duce a very pretty effect. 673. CAPONS, A L IVOIRE THESE must be trussed and braized in the usual manner, and when done, the broth in which they have been braized should be strained through a sieve, then divested of every particle of grease, and clarified with a little white of egg. After this has been strained, it should be boiled down te the consistency of half-glaze, and when the capons are dished up, shouid be poured over them, and sent to table. It is also customary in serving this remove to use a rich Supréme sauce (No. 88), with small quenelles of fowl for garnish. we 674. CAPON, AU GROS SEL. Tu1s is dressed in the manner described in the first part of the fore- going article; a little rock salt should, however, be placed upon the breast, just before sending it to table. 675. CAPON, A L'ESTRAGON. Braize the capon in the usual way; when done, the broth in which it has been braized must be clarified, and a few sprigs of green tarragon thrown into it while boiling ; the consommé should then be strained through a napkin, and boiled down nearly to the consistency of half-glaze, to be poured over the capon when served.. Some leaves of green tarragon must be boiled for a minute or two in water, and used to ornament the breast of the capon. 676. CAPON AND RICE, ArtER the capon has been drawn, wash the mside thoroughly clean, and absorb all the moisture with anapkin. Then nearly fill the capon a ae BOILED CAPONS, 201 swith rice, boiled quite soft in white broth, and mixed with a spoonful of white sauce ; 1¢ should afterwards be trussed for boiling, and placed in an oval stewpan, with an onion stuck:with two cloves, and a carrot. Add as much white broth as will cover the breast of the fowl, over which lay an oval piece of buttered paper; place the lid on the stew- pan, and about an hour before it is wanted, set it to boil gently on a slow fire. When done, drain the fowl, and having removed the strings, place it upon its dish, garnish it round neatly with’ rice, previously boiled in white broth, to which has been added a large spoonful of white sauce, two yolks of eggs, a little mignionette pepper, grated nutmeg, and a small pat of fresh butter. Work the rice over a brisk stove-fire for five minutes, and then, with two table-spoons, mould it into the form of large eggs, and place these round the capon in a close border: sauce the capon with Supréme or Béchamel sauce and serve. If the capon is intended to be served plain, the sauce, &c., must be omitted, and instead of masking it with sauce, pour some essence of fowl under it; this may be obtained by clarifying some of the broth in which it has boiled, and afterwards boiling it down to the con- sistency of half-glaze. | 677. CAPON, A LA MILANAISE, Truss and boil a capon in the usual way, and when done, dish it p, and garnish it with a ragout of macaroni dressed with truffles, red tongue, and mushrooms; place a border of rissoles (No. 1020) round the dish, and serve. ~ 078. CAPON WITH MACARONI Bort the capon as directed for the capons d la Godard; dish it up, and garnish it with macaroni, prepared as follows :—Boil half a pound of Naples macaroni in two quarts of water, with a small pat of butter, a little salt and mignionette pepper; when it is done, drain it in a colander, cut the pipes into pieces, two inches long, and put them into a stewpan, with 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, two pats of butter, a little mignionette pepper, and a large spoonful of white sauce; stir the macaroni, or rather toss it, over a brisk fire, and when the cheese is incorporated with the sauce, &c., use it as directed; mask the breast of the capon with Béchamel, and serve. 679. CAPON WITH NOUILLES.* Bzraze the capon as directed in the foregoing article, and when done, dish it up, and garnish round with the nouilles, previously pre- pared for the purpose, in the followmg manner :—Parboil the nouilles in water for five minutes, throw them on to a sieve to drain the water from them, and afterwards replace them im the stewpan; season with mignionette pepper, alittle grated nutmeg, and a pat of butter ; moisten with about a quart of good broth, cover with a round of buttered paper, place the lid on the stewpan, and set the nouilles to simmer gently on * Nouilles area kind of vermicelli prepared in the following manner :—Place six ounces of sifted flour upon a marble slab or paste-board; make a well in the centre, by spreading the flour ont in the form of a ring with the back of the hand; then place therein a little salt, and add a tea-spoonful of water to melt it; after which, add the yolks of five eggs, and knead the whole well together into a firm, smooth, compact paste; and after allowing it to rest for ten minutes, roll it out as thin as paper, and then divide it into bands three inches wide, cut these into very fine shreds and spread them upon a large sieve to dry. 202 REMOVES OF CHICKENS, a slow fire for about an hour; then remove the paper, and add a ragout-spoonful of Allemande sauce and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; toss the whole together over the fire until well mixed, and then use them as before directed; sauce the poulard, or capon, with Supréme or Allemande sauce, and serve. In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing capons, they ma also be served with celery-sauce, oyster, green Lavigotte sauce, or wit cray-fish, or /inanciére ragouts. Poulards are dressed in the same manner as capons. CHICKENS FOR REMOVES OR FLANKS, COMPRISING Chickens, a la Reine. Chickens, ¢ la Florentine. . a PItaliénne. 7 a la Cardinal. a la Sauce Tomaie. os a I’ Allemande. ne ad la Venitiénne. 4 ad UV Indiénne. 3 a la Dauphine. a Africasne. 4; a la Montmorency. , = d la Turque. *, ad la Milanaise. > a ? Espagnole. a la Chivry. 680. CHICKENS, A LA REINE. Truss two small spring chickens for boiling, rub them over with lemon-juice, and wrap them up separately in a sheet of thickly-but- tered paper; then place the chickens in a stewpan, with a garnished fageot.of parsley, a carrot and an onion stuck with two cloves; moisten with some of the surface of the boiling stockpot, in sufficient quantity to nearly cover the chickens; set them to boil gently for about forty minutes, when they will be done. When about to send to table, drain the chickens upon a napkin, and after having removed the paper and string, dish them up side by side, and cover them with Supréme sauce, garnish the dish with four groups of very small quenelles of fowl, and serve. 681. CHICKENS, A L’ITALIENNE. Truss and boil two small chickens according to the foregoing direc- tions ; when done, divest them of the paper and dish them up; sauce with a rich brown Italian sauce (No. 12), garnish with a border of mushrooms farcis (No. 1161), and serve. 682. CHICKENS WITH TOMATA SAUCE. THESE are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, with this exception that, when dished up, they must be sauced with a well- finished tomata sauce (No. 22), and a border of tomatas aw gratin (No. 1160), should be placed round them. 683. CHICKENS,A LA VENITIENNE. Tux chickens when Woiled and dished up, must be sauced with a Vénitienne (No. 26), and garnished with a border of raviols (No. 375). e. REMOVES OF CHICKENS. . 203 684. CHICKENS, A LA DAUPHINE. Draw two spring chickens, proceed to bone them as for “galantines,” excepting that the legs and wings must be left entire. The void must be then filled with quwenelle of fowl, in which has been mixed some chopped mushrooms and parsley; the chickens should afterwards be trussed, taking care to give them the same shape as they would have were the bones not removed; and after rubbing them over with lemon- tuice, cover the breasts with thin layers of fat bacon, and secure their shape by wrapping them in sheets of buttered paper ; then place them in a stewpan, with carrot, onion, and a garnished faggot; moisten with some light mirepoix (No. 236), and set the chickens to simmer very gently by the side of a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour; when done, drain them upon a napkin, remove the string, &c., and disk them up; sauce them with the clarified essence in which they have been braized, and serve. Tt is also customary to serve chickens, fowls, capons, or poulards, when prepared in this fashion, with ragouts ad la Financiere, d la Parisienne, with Macédoines, or Jardiniéres of vegetables, Italian, Poivrade, Tomata, or Supréme sauces. 685. CHICKENS, A LA MONTMORENCY. Truss two or more chickens (as may be required), and let their breasts be entirely covered, with close larding; next place them in a stewpan containing a wine mirepoix (No. 236), covering the unlarded parts with thin layers of fat bacon; add as much good consommé aa will suffice to reach up to the larding, cover the chickens with a round of buttered paper, and set them to braize gently on a slow fire—taking eare that the lid of the stewpan be covered with live embers of char- coal, to effect the glazing of the larding. When the chickens are done, dish them up, garnish them with a white ragout d la Financiere (No. 187), or a ragout d la Parisenne CNo. 203), and serve. 204 REMOVES OF CHICKEN». | Chickens, d la Montmorency, may also be dished up with an orna- mental crdustade in the centre, in which should be fixed five atelets — garnished as shown in the wood-cut, p. 208. 686. CHICKENS, A LA MILANAISE, TuusE should be trussed and boiled, and when done, dished up with a ragout a la Milanaise, see Capon a la Milanaise (No. 677) ; they may also be garnished. with a border of rissoles (No. 1020). ; 687. CHICKENS, A LA CHIVRY. Truss the chickens so as to look very plump, boil or braize them in some white poéle (No. 231) or broth ; and when done, dish them up in the following manner :—Some small rings of onions about the size of a shilling should be first boiled in white broth, then filled with blanched ravigotte of chives, tarragon, and chervil, and afterwards used to ornament the breasts of the chickens. Place these in their dish, © pour under them a Chivry or Ravigotte sauce (No. 20), and send to table. 688. CHICKENS, A LA FLORENTINE Truss two chickens and lard the breast very closely with black truffles cut into strips, which must be used instead of bacon for this purpose; the chickens should be covered with thin layers of fat bacon (to prevent the truffles from drying and breaking off), then braized in white broth, and when done, dished up with an ornamental créus- tade of bread fried of a light-brown colour and placed in the centre of the dish: garnish with alternate groups of small quenelles of fowl coloured with lobster spawn, truffles cut in the form of olives, mushrooms, large double cocks’-combs, and small croqguettes of rice mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese; sauce the chickens, without masking the breasts, with some Allemande sauce, in which have been added two table-spoonfuls of tomata sauce, and a little Chili vinegar. Fill the créustade with trimmed cray-fish tails tossed in a little of the sauce, and serve. If this dish be intended for a grand dinner, four ornamental silver skewers garnished with a double cock’s- comb, truffles, decorated quenelle, and a cray-fish, may be inserted in the créustade. 689. CHICKENS, A LA CARDINAL. Draw two chickens, taking care to leave the crop entire, cut off the feet two inches from the jomt of the leg, and make an incision. just under the thigh; insert the legs inside, and then put the chickens in a basin of cold water to soak for a quarter of an hour; after.which, with the aid of the forefinger, detach the skin as much as possible from the breasts and legs of the chickens without tearing it; they must then be placed upon a napkin, and all the water absorbed from them ; after which the interstices between the skin and fillets, &c., should be covered with some quenelle of fowl coloured of a deep red with lobster spawn. The chickens are then to be trussed for boiling in the usual manner, being covered with thin layers of fat bacon to protect the skin while braizing ; place them in a stew-pan with the customary vegetables, &c., moisten with white broth and set them to braize very cently on a slow fire—care must be taken to prevent their boiling ee ee, ee. ee BOILED CHICKENS. . 205 fast, as in that case the quenelle would burst the skins. When dcne, dish them up with an ornamental fried bread crdustade in the centre of the dish; garnish with small groups of glazed truffles, cocks’- combs, large quenelles of fowl decorated with truffles, button-mush- rooms and cray-fish tails, and at each end place a larded sweetbread ; sauce with some Cardinal sauce (No. 48), insert four garnished orna- mental silver skewers into the créustade, and serve. 690. CHICKENS, A L’ALLEMANDE. THESE must be trussed and boiled as usual, and when done, dished up with a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312), first poached, then covered with fried bread-crumbs, and placed round the chickens ; sauce them with a rich Allemande sauce (No. 7), and send to table. 691. CHICKENS, A L’INDIENNE, Truss two chickens for boiling, lard the breasts c.osely, and place them in a conveniently-sized stew-pan with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley, &c.; add some good stock in sufficient quantity to reach up to the larding, place a buttered paper over the chickens, and having put the lid on the stew- an, set them to braize gently, with some live embers of charcoal upon the lid of the pan: about forty minutes will suffice to do them. Then remove the paper, and after drying the larding in the oven for a minute or two, glaze the chickens nicely, dish them up, garnish them round with a border of rice vroquettes formed in the shape of an egg, and between each croquette place a minion fillet of fowl decorated with tongue, sauce them round with some Linanciére sauce (No. 8), in which have been added two mangoes sliced small, and serve. 692. CHICKENS, A L’AFRICAINE, Prepare the chickens in the same way as for @ la Cardinal, and detach the skins in the same manner, fill up the interstices between 906- * REMOVES OF CHICKENS, the skin and fillets, with some foreemeat of fowl in which has been mixed sufficient purée of truffles (No. 121) to colour it; the chickens must then be trussed as for boiling, and after bemg covered with thin layers of fat bacon, should be braized, and when done, dished up side by side. Garnish them round with alternate groups of very small quenelles, half of which must be coloured with chopped truffles and the remainder with lobster coral; sauce with a /imanciere ragout (No. 188), in a Poivrade sauce (No. 29), and serve. 693. CHICKENS, A LA TURQUE. THESE must be trussed, boiled, and dished up as usual; they should then be garnished with a close border of rice boiled in broth with a sittle saffron and Cayenne pepper; place round the rice alternate groups of Smyrna raisins stewed in a little Malaga wine, and tongue cut into small pipe-like forms about half-an-inch long ; pour a lightly- seasoned curry sauce (No. 47) over the chickens, and serve. 694, CHICKENS, A L’ESPAGNOLE. Truss two chickens as for boiling, then take a deep fricandeau pan, spread it thickly with butter, and lay therein, in circular order, a dozen pieces of raw ham cut in the shape and about twice the thick- ness of a crown-piece ; upon these place the chickens, and garnish with carrot, onion, faggot of parsley, a clove of garlic, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; cover with a buttered paper and the ld, and then set them upon a moderate fire (with some live embers of charcoal upon the lid), to simmer for about forty minutes: taking care to turn the chickens occasionally, in order that they may be equally coloured of a light brown all over. This beimg done, the butter should be drained off from the chickens, and the vegetables removed; then add a glass of sherry or Madeira, two spoonfuls of Tomata sauce (No. 22), and the same quantity of Brown sauce, a small piece of glaze, lemon-juice and a little Cayenne pepper. Let the whole simmer together on the fire for five minutes, then draw the strings from the chickens and dish them up; garnish them round with the pieces of ham placed alternately with a créuton of the same shape ; round these place four groups of Spanish-peas (garbangas) boiled and divested of the hulls, and some dressed tomatas au gratin (No. 1161) ; pour the sauce over the chickens and serve. In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing chickens for smal Removes, Flanks, or Entrées, they may also be served with rice, macaroni, nouilles, oyster sauce, a l’ Anglaise, d [ Ivoire, d 1 Estragon, &¢., and indeed in every variety of form described for dressing capons. 207 REMOVES OF GOOSE, COMPRISING Goose, a 1’ Anglatse. Goose, d la Normande » da? Estouffade. Wild Goose, d ?’ Aberdeen. 3s, G@la Flamande. - ad P Allemande. « @?Allemande. Cygnets. 3 & la Dauphinoise. » & la Norwich. 695 GOOSE, A L’ANGLAISE, Draw a fine fat goose, and stuff it with the following seasoning :— Chop six large onions and about one third of the quantity of green- sage-leaves; parboil these in water for three minutes, then drain them upon a sieve, and afterwards put them into a small stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and allow the whole to simmer gently over a slow fire for a few minutes, stirring the seasoning the whole of the time with a wooden spoon. When the goose is stuffed, truss it for roasting, run the spit through it, then fasten it on by the means of a strong iron skewer laid upon the back of the goose, and secured at each end with string. The goose should now be put down to the fire to roast, which will require about an hour and a half, according to its size—taking particular care to baste it frequently ; when done, take it off the spit, dish it up with a rich brown gravy under it, and send to table with a boat of apple-sauce, 696. GOOSE, A L’ESTOUFFADE. Draw a fine fat young goose, and stuff it in the following manner:— Parboil two large onions and chop them fine; to these add six sage- leaves, and a proportionate quantity of green thyme and mugwort: these also must first be parboiled and then chopped. Put the onions and the herbs into a small stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt ; and set the whole to stew gently on a very slow fire for about ten minutes. Then put the stuffing into the goose, and truss it in the usual way; place it in an oval stewpan with half-a-pound of butter, a garnished faggot of parsley, an onion stuck with four cloves, one head of celery, and a carrot cut into slices, and moisten with two glasses of sherry. Put the lid on the stewpan, place it on a slow fire, with some live embers of charcoal and ashes on the lid, and allow the goose to simmer gently for about an hour and a half, taking particular care to turn it, so as to give it an equal colour all over. When done, pour off all the fat, and a ragout-spoonful of reduced brown sauce, and a little consommé to detach the glaze from the sides of the stewpan; and having allowed it to boil quickly, in order to reduce the sauce to its usual consistency, the goose should be dished up, and garnished round with a border of glazed turnips then pour the sauce over it, and serve. This dish may also be garnished with macaroni, with glazed carrots, or onions. 3 298 REMOVES OF GOOSE. 697. GOOSE, A LA FLAMANDE. Truss and braize a goose; when done, dish it up and garnish it round with alternate groups of glazed carrots, turnips, Brussels- sprouts, and indeed almost every variety of vegetables in season, pre~ viously prepared for the purpose; glaze the goose, and pour some bright brown sauce (with the addition of some of the braize in which it has been done, reduced to a glaze for that purpose) round the vege- tables, and send to table. 698. GOOSE, A L’ALLEMANDE. Procure a double-handful of mugwort, rub off all the buds, and blanch them in boiling water for two minutes; then drain and put them into a small stewpan, with a large onion chopped fine, a little erated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and four ounces of butter; set these to simmer gently on the fire, for ten minutes, and having put this stuffing in the goose, truss and place it in an oval stewpan with four ounces of butter, and set it on a moderate fire, with some live embers. on the lid. Care should be taken to turn the goose every now and then, so as to give it an equal colour all over. When it is done, pour off all the grease, add the juice of one lemon and one orange, together both the peel of an orange cut into very thin shreds previously par- boiled in water; add also a spoonful of brown sauce and a little consommé. Allow these to boil together for two or three minutes, , dish up the goose, garnish it round with groups of potatoes—cut into . the shape of large olives and fried in butter—pour the sauce over the ‘ goose, and send to table. — | 699. GOOSE, A LA DAUPHINOISE. StuFF a goose with chestnuts prepared as follows :—Slhit, scald, and peel about sixty large chestnuts; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt, and a quart of good broth, one shalot chopped fine, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; set the chestnuts to stew upon a slow fire, and when they are done, put them in the goose and truss it. Then place the goose in a deep earthen dish, moisten with a wine mirepoiz (No. 236), and cover the dish effectually with some stiff-made flour-and-water paste, so as entirely to prevent the aroma of the several ingredients from escaping. Set it in the oven to bake for about two hours, and when it is done, remove the crust, dish up the goose, strain the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan, skim off every particle of grease, and then boil it down to the bare quantity required for saucing; to this add the juice of two oranges and one lemon, half a pound of currant jelly, and some orange peel shred fine; boil the whole together for two minutes, then pour the sauce over the goose, and send to table. 700. GOOSE, A LA NORMANDE. Cop one large onion fine, blanch, and afterwards drain it upon « sieve ; then fry it with a little butter of a light-brown colour, and mix it with mashed potatoes, in sufficient quantity to stuff the goose ; this being done; truss it and roast it in the usual manner, and when removed from the spit, dish it up; garnish it round with a border ot small round apples neatly turned, and stewed with a little broth, a . — - -_ - , ' er i : Ae P aLaie REMOVES OF GOOSE. 209 amall piece of butter, and two ounces of sugar; when nearly done, the apples should be boiled down quickly, in order to glaze them of a bright light brown colour: be careful that they remain whole. Pour a rich gravy round the goose, and send to table. 701. WILD GOOSE, A L’ABERDEEN. WueEn the goose is drawn, scald the feet and remove the rough euticle that covers them; then singe it over the flame of a charcoal- fire, wipe it with a clean clotr, and pick out all the stubble, and stuff the goose with the following preparation :— To one pound of chopped beef-suet, add the same quantity of bread- crumbs, half a pound of butter, two whole eggs, a little chopped thyme, sweet-basil, and marjoram, two shalots, and a handful of parsley ; season with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; knead the ' whole well together, and stuff the goose with it. Then truss the goose, and put it on the spit in the same fashion as directed for a haunch of venison. It will require about three hours to roast; when done, dish it up with a border of glazed Portugal onions (No. 1164), pour some Potvrade sauce (No. 29), under it, and send to table. The goose should be frothed with flour and butter in the same manner as venison, after the crust has been removed. 702. WILD GOOSE, A L’ALLEMANDE, Prepare the goose at first as directed in No. 698, then place it in a deep earthen dish, and strew upon it the following vegetables cut into thin slices: two carrots, two onions, one head of celery, a hand- ful of parsley, four bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and sweet-basil in small quantities; also four blades of mace, a dozen cloves, and a spoonful of Jamaica pepper-corns, two lemons peeled and cut into slices, a pint of salad oil, and half a pint of French vinegar. Allow the goose to remain in this marinade or pickle for a couple of days, taking care to turn it frequently. When about to dress the goose, put it on the spit, cover it with stout paper well buttered, lay the whole of the vegetables, &c., on the breast, cover these with two sheets of buttered paper, and fasten them on securely with string. Put the goose thus prepared down to the fire to roast for about two hours, taking care to baste it frequently ; when done, take it from the spit, glaze and dish it up, garnish with a border of quenelles of potatoes rolled in fried bread-crumbs, and pour under it a sauce, made as follows :— Grate a large stick of horseradish; peel and slice up two lemons, removing the pips, and put these in a stewpan with four shalots, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns, two bay-leaves, a large sprig of thyme, and half a pint of French vinegar ; set these to boil on the fire until reduced to half the quantity, then add a large spoonful of rich gravy, one pound of currant jelly, and the juice of two Seville oranges; allow the whole to boil together for five minutes, and then strain the sauce through a tammy with considerable pressure into a small stewpan, and make it hot for use. 703. CYGNET A LA NORWICH. Procure a Norwich-fed cygnet (these birds sre in best condition in September), stuff it with the following preparation : — 210 REMOVES OF DUCKS. Three pounds of rumpsteaks chopped fine, seasoned with three sha- lots, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Truss the cygnet in the usual manner, spit it, then envelope it with well-buttered paper, and encase it with flour-and-water-paste in a similar way to that practised for haunches of venison; after which let the whole be again secured with stous paper well greased and fastened on with twine. About four hours will suffice to roast the cygnet, during which it should be frequently basted. When done, remove the coating, froth it with flour and butter in the ysual manner, and dish it up with a rich brown gravy under it; and send a boatful of port-wine sauce to be handed round with it. : Note-—Cygnets may be prepared for the table, according to the directions for dressing wild geese. | REMOVES OF DUCKS, COMPRISING Ducks, @ la Macedoine. Braized Ducks, with stewed Peas. Braized Ducks, with Turnips. a la Provengale, 703. DUCKS, A LA MACEDOINE, Truss two ducks for boiling, and put them into an oval stewpan with a carrot, an onion, two cloves and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with a quart of white broth, cover with an oval piece of weil- buttered paper, place the lid on the stewpan, and set it on the stove to boil; then put some live embers on the lid, and remove the ducks to the side of the stove to braize gently for about an hour. When about to send them to table, drain them upon a napkin, remove the ~ string, and dish them up with alternate groups of a copious and varied Macédoine of vegetables (No. 143)—such as carrots and turnips, cut in fancy shapes and nicely glazed, after being previously boiled in broth, asparagus heads, French-beans, green-peas, cauliflower, &c., as they may happen to be in season. Sauce the ducks with some Allemande, and serve. 704. BRAIZED DUCKS, WITH TURNIPS, Turse should be trussed in the usual way, and placed in an oval stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with sufficient white stock to cover the ducks, put a buttered paper over them and set them to boil gently on a slow fire for about an hour. While they are being braized, cut some turnips into fancy shapes, such as large olives, half-moons, &c., fry them in two ounces of butter and a little sugar; when they are all equally browned, throw them into a stewpan, containing about a pint of Espagnole sauce, with the addition of some of the broth the ducks are braized in. Allow the turnips to boil very gently by the side of the fire until done; they must then be drained upon a sieve, their sauce clarified, skimmed, reduced to its proper consistency, and passed through a tammy into a small stewpan containing the turnips. Dish the ducks up, place the turnips neatly round, pour the sauce over them, and send to table, . ] —~ SS SS Abe _ REMOVES OF PHEASANTS. Ohl 705. BRAIZED DUCKS, WITH STEWED PEAS. BraizE the ducks as directed in the foregoing case, and when _ done, dish them up with stewed peas round them; sauce with a brown sauce in which some of the broth from the ducks has been reduced. They may also be prepared as follows :— Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan on the fire: when melted, add two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir this over the fire until the roux becomes of a fawn-colour; then add a quart of good broth or gravy, carefully working the whole while mixing. Stir this sauce on the fire, and when it boils, put the ducks trussed for boiling into it, and also a quart of young peas, and a faggot of parsley and green onions. Allow these to stew very gently by the side of the stove for about an hour; when the ducks are done, take them out of the sauce, skim off all the grease, remove the faggot of parsley; and if there is too much sauce, boil it down to its proper consistency, pour the peas and sauce over the ducks, previously dished up, and serve. 706. BRAIZED DUCKS, A LA PROVENCALE. THESE should be braized as in the former cases, and when dished up, garnished with the following preparation : Cut six large onions into halves, remove the ends of these, and slice them up. Meanwhile, heat half a pint of salad oil in a deep sautapan over the fire; fry the onions in it of a light-brown colour, carefully stirring them with the end of an iron skewer to avoid breaking the pieces. When the onions are done, drain them upon a sieve, and a‘terwards put them into a small stewpan with the juice of a lemon, a little mignionette pepper and a piece me about the size of a walnut, and set them on a slow fire to simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; add some finished Lspagnole sauce in sufficient quantity for the purpose, boil the whole together, pour it round the ducks and serve. This dish is sometimes designated d@ la Lyonnaise. In addition to the foregoing methods for serving braized ducks, they may also be garnished with a Jardiniére, stewed olives, a Nivernaise, or with sauer-kraut (No. 165); for preparing which, see Vegetable Garnishes. REMOVES OF PHHASANTS, COMPRISING Pheasants, d fa Périgueux. Pheasants, d la Dauphinoise. beg bs a la Chipolata. NS with braized cabbage. 3 é I’ Italiénne. AS d la Flamande. 34 a la Beauveaux. ay a ? Allemande. a a la Financiére. 43 a la Régence. - with purée of celery. ; a ad PEspagnole. es da la Soubise. » @PAspic. By a la Dauphine. ad a la Monglas. ie a la Paysanne. 707. PHEASANTS, A LA PERIGUEUX. Foitow in every respect the directions for dressing turkeys d Ja Périgueux (No. 660). | P2 212 REMOVES OF PHEASANTS. 708. PHEASANTS, A LA CHIPOLATA. Tires are to be trussed and nicely roasted, and when taken from the spit, should be dished up and neatly garnished with a Chipolata ragout (No. 190). 709. PHEASANTS, A LITALIENNE. | Truss two pheasants as for boiling, and place them on the spit in the usual way, then cover the breasts with a reduced wine mirepoix, — retaining the vegetables in it; wrap them in two large sheets of well- buttered paper, securely fastened at each end with string; place a long stout-made iron skewer at the backs of the pheasants, which must be likewise tightly secured with string to prevent them from slipping round. Roast the pheasants for an hour, take them up, place them on their dish, garnish with a border of raviolis (No. 375), pour an Italian sauce (No. 12) over them, and serve. . 710. PHEASANTS, A LA BEAUVEAUX. Tu pheasants must be boned, except the legs and wings, which should be left entire: stuff them with a farce made with fat livers of fowls or game (No. 249): then truss them so as to give them the appearance of being whole; run a strong iron skewer through them, fasten this upon a spit with string at each end of the skewer; cover the breasts with some reduced mirepoir (No. 286), and wrap them up in two sheets of buttered paper, which must also be securely fastened with string. Roast the pheasants an hour and a quarter, and when done, dish them up with a ragout of scollops of fat livers and truffles (No. 191) in a Financiére sauce, and serve. 711. PHEASANTS, A LA FINANCIERE, Truss and roast the pheasants, and when done, dish them up with a rich Financiére ragout (No. 188). 712. PHEASANTS, WITH PUREE OF CELERY. Truss the pheasants for boiling, braize them in some good stock, garnished with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; when done drain them upon a napkin, dish them up, and pour over them a white purée of celery (No. 110); garnish round. with a border of potato croquettes, and serve. 713, PHEASANTS, A LA SOUBISE. THEsE should be larded through the breasts, lengthwise, with strips of fat bacon about four inches long and a quarter of an inch square, seasoned with pepper and salt and chopped parsley; they must be afterwards trussed for boiling, then braized as in the foregoing case; when done, dish them up with a purée of onions a la Soubise (No. 119) poured over them, and send to table. 714. PHEASANTS, A LA DAUPHINE. SEE Poulards a la Dauphine. (No. 684.) 715. PHEASANTS, A LA PAYSANNE,. _ Truss the pheasants as for boiling with the legs tucked inside: then put them into an oval stew-pan with four ounces of butter, and E | ; ? ; 3 4 { ey ee ee —: + oA 2 a piece of glaze the size of an egg, and set them to simmer very gently over a slow fire. They must be frequently turned, and care should be taken to prevent the glaze and butter from burning. When the pheasants are done, let the butter and grease be poured off; adda glass of white wine and some good stock in sufficient quantity to serve for the. gravy, the juice of half a lemon and a little pepper and salt ; boil these together to detach the glaze from the sides of the stew-pan, and when the pheasants are dished up, pour this gravy over them, garnish them round with groups of potatoes cut into the shape of large olives and fried in butter, and serve. REMOVES OF PHEASANTS. 213 716. PHEASANTS, A LA DAUPHINOISE. Truss the pheasants as for boiling, braize them in a wine mirepoix (No. 236), and when done, take them up, draw the strings, and allow them to get partially cold; then cover them entirely with some reduced Allemande sauce in which has been mixed half the mrepoix the pheasants have been braized in (this, previously to its being boiled down for the purpose of adding it to the sauce, must be freed of all the grease, &e.) This coating of sauce should be allowed to cool, and then must be bread-crumbed over with grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the bread-crumbs in equal proportions. The pheasants must now be placed in a deep sautapan or pie-dish, previously well buttered, and the remaining half of the braize added to moisten the bottom of the pan. Three quarters of an hour before dinner-time, sprinkle the pheasants with a little clarified butter, and set them in the oven to be baked of a very light fawn colour—frequently basting them with clarified butter while baking. When done, dish them up side by side, garnish round with a border of quenelles of polenta, pour a brown Italian sauce (No. 12) under them, and ferve. The qguenelles of polenta above alluded to should be thus made: Put into a small stew-pan six ounces of butter, half-a-pint of water, a little mignionette pepper and salt; set these on the fire to boil, and then mix in with them six ounces of polenta (a preparation of Indian corn); stir this again over the fire until it becomes a smooth compact paste, and then work in with it two whole eggs and two yolks, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Shape this composition into quenelles with two table-spoons in the usual manner, and poach them in hot water. 717, PHEASANTS, WITH STEWED CABBAGES. Tuxsz must be trussed as for boiling, and placed in a rather large oval stewpan with three white-heart or Savoy cabbages previously cut into halves, the cores taken out, and blanched or parboiled: after- wards the two halves of each cabbage, previously seasoned with mignionette pepper and salt, must be tied up with string; add two carrots, one head of celery, two onions, each stuck with two cloves, one pound of streaky bacon from which all the rust has been pared off, and which must also be parboiled like the cabbages, one pound of German sausage, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with good stock in sufficient quantity to cover the pheasants, cover with a piece of buttered paper, put the lid on che stewpan, and then set the whole on a moderate fire to stew very gently for about two hours. Just before sending to table, take out the pheasants, drain them. upon 214 PHEASANTS a napkin, remove the strings, and dish them up with an ornamerita, créustade of fried bread in the centre ; then put the bacon and German sausage upon a plate, and after having drained the cabbages m a colander, roll them in a clean napkin in the form of a rolling pin; cut this into two-inch lengths and place them round the pheasants, trim the bacon, cut it into strips and lay them on the top of the circle of the pieces of cabbages in alternate layers with slices of the sausage ; about the upper part of this dish, place well-formed groups of nicely- shaped glazed carrots, turnips and onions, prepared for the purpose ; pour an Lspagnole sauce over the whole, glaze the pheasants and the roots, and serve. 718. PHEASANTS, A LA FLAMANDE. - Truss and braize the pheasants in common stock, garnished with carrot, onion stuck with two cloves, and a faggot of parsley; when done, dish them up side by side, garnished round with alternate groups of carrots and turnips, cut into fancy shapes, and nicely glazed, and some dressed Brussels sprouts and glazed onions; pour an Espagnole sauce round them, glaze the pheasants, and serve. 719. PHEASANTS, A L’ALLEMANDE, SrE chickens a I’ Allemande {No. 690). 720. PHEASANTS, A LA REGENCE. Truss the pheasants with plump breasts as for roasting, lard them closely , and about an hour before dinner-time, put them on the spit before the fire to roast for about forty minutes ; taking particular care to baste them frequently, and glaze them well just before taking them off the spit. When done, dish them up, garnish round with groups of white cock’s-combs, button mushrooms, small quenelles and truffles ; ~ PHEASANTS, 915 in each flank of the dish, place a large decorated quenelle, and at the ends put a larded sweetbread; sauce the remove neatly round with some Allemande sauce, so as not to touch the pheasants, glaze the larding, and serve. 721, PHEASANTS, WITH RICE, A L’ESPAGNOLE. THESE must be trussed as for boiling, and then placed in an oval stewpan with carrot, celery, two onions stuck with three cloves each, a garnished faggot of parsley and a couple of red Spanish sausages ; moisten with some red wine mirepoix, cover them up, and set them to stew very gently for about two hours on a slow fire. While the pheasants are stewing, prepare some rice in the following manner : Thoroughly wash ten ounces of Carolina rice, and afterwards boil it for three minutes in water, and drain it on a sieve until all the moisture is absorbed ; then, put a gill of salad oil into a large sauta- pan over a brisk fire, and, as soon as the oil is quite hot, throw the rice in and fry it until it becomes slightly browned, stirring it with a spoon the whole of. the time it remains on the fire. Then put the rice into a stewpan, moisten it with a pint and a half of good consommé, season with a little Cayenne pepper and a pinch of saffron powder; set it to simmer very gently on the fire for half an hour, and when the pheasants are dished up, work the rice with a tea-spoonful of tomata sauce and a little glaze, then mould it in the shape of ordinary quenelles with a table-spoon, and place these closely round the pheasants after they are dished up; sauce them over with Poivrade sauce in which part of their broth has been mixed after being first boiled down to glaze, and serve. 722. PHEASANTS, A L’ASPIC. Bone the pheasants and take care to leave the legs and wings entire; then season the inside with pepper and salt, and fill them out with some forcemeat of pheasant (No. 243) previously mixed with some chopped parsley and mushrooms; truss them so as to give them their original shape and size, cover them with thin layers of fat bacon and wrap them securely in napkins spread with butter, fastened at each end with strmg. When the pheasants are thus far prepared, place them in an oval stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with three cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley; moisten with good white stock in sufficient quantity to cover them, and then set them to braize very gently on a slow fire for an hour and a half. When the pheasants are done, take them up, remove the napkins and strings, drain all the | moisture from them upon a clean napkin, and dish them up; pour under them some bright essence of game, made from the carcasses of the pheasants, which, previously to its being used, must be clarified and reduced to half-glaze. 723. PHEASANTS, A LA MONGLAS. Roast two pheasants, and as soon as they come off the spit, cut the meat from the breasts by making an incision in the shape of a heart ; this meat must then be cut mto very small dice and mixea with two gravy-spoonfuls of reduced Béchamel sauce or Allemande, and two dozen mushrooms, a couple of black truffles and a small p'ece of 4 216 REMOVES OF PARTRIDGES. red tongue should be also cut into dice and mixed with the pheasant, With this preparation fill up the breasts of the pheasants, smooth them over with the blade of a knife, and then cover them with bread- crumbs fried of a light-brown colour; set the pheasants in the oven or hot closet to keep warm, and when about to send them to table, place them in their dish side by side, pour under them a white ragout of cocks’-combs, mushrooms, and truffles, and serve. Note——This dish is generally served when there happens to be some ready-dressed game left from the previous day’s dinner. REMOVES OF PARTRIDGES, COMPRISING Partridges, a la Seéville. Partridges, a la Ravigotte. Red-legged Partridges, a /a Plessy. A a la Soubise. me 94 d la Cerito. » a ULElisler. 724. PARTRIDGES, A LA SEVILLE. Truss four or six partridges as for boiling, fry them of a light~ brown colour in four ounces of fresh butter, and then set them aside: upon a plate; cut about one pound of raw ham (that has been pre- viously soaked and parboiled) into small pieces in the form of olives, - and two dozen small pieces of the red part of a carrot cut with a round scoop, with the same number of small button-onions ; fry these also of a light-brown colour, withdraw them from the fire, and then put them with the partridges back into the stewpan ; add a faggot of parsley garnished with thyme, bay-leaf, sweet-basil, and one clove of garlic ; season with a little salt and Cayenne pepper, moisten with two glasses of Madeira or Malaga, and a table-spoonful of tomatas ; then set the stewpan (covered with the lid containing live embers) on a slow fire, to simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Observe, that the moistening of the partridges should be reduced to one half of its original quantity while braizing. When done, dish them up ina triangular form, skim off the grease from the carots, &c., add a gravy- spoonful of finished EHspagnole and the juice of half a lemon; boil the whole together for two minutes, place the ham, carrots, and onions, in Separate groups round the partridges, pass the sauce through a tammy, pour it over the partridges, and serve. in the centre of the partridges, place some garbangas or yellow Spanish peas, prepared as follows :— Soak a pint of garbangas in tepid water for twelve hours; then drain and put them into a stewpan with half a pound of ham, a carrot, an onion, a garnished faggot of parsley, and a little mignionette-pepper }. paren with three pints of broth, and set them to boil gently for ree hours. 725. RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGES, A LA PLESSY. TuxEsE are to be trussed as for boiling, braized in a white poéle (No. 230), and when done, to be dished up in a triangular form, and garnished with neat groups of small quenelles of partridge and white ~ PARTRIDGES, = Sie button-inushrooms; pour round a Supréme sauce (No. 88), finish with an essence of game over the partridges, and serve. 726. PARTRIDGES, A LA CERITO. Bone three red-legged partridges and fill them out with some quenelle force-meat made with the fillets of two partridges, and with which should be mixed previously to using it, two black truffles and a small piece of red tongue cut into small dice; when the partridges are filled with this preparation, truss them so as to give them their original shape; scald the red legs and insert them on each side of the _ birds, at the same time pushing the ends of the skin of the leg neatly in with each foot. Then, wrap each bird in a separate small napkin spread with butter, and fasten the ends with string; braize them for about an hour in some white poéle (No. 280), over a slow fire, and take particular care that they do not boil fast. When done, take them out of the napkins, remove the strings, drain all the unneces- sary moisture from them, and dish them up: garnish them with a border of raviolis (No. 875), pour a Provengale sauce (No. 25) over them, and serve. 727, PARTRIDGES, A LA RAVIGOTTE. Tuess should be trussed as for boiling, and must be roasted just before they are wanted ; when dished up, pour a Kavigotte or Proven- ale sauce under them, glaze, and send to table. 728. PARTRIDGES, A LA SOUBISE. Truss the partridges for boiling, braize them, and when done, disk them up, pour an onion sauce @ Ja Soubise, finished with a gill of cream (No. 119) over them, and send to table. 729, PARTRIDGES, A L’ELLSLER. Truss four red-legged partridges as for boiling, lard the breasts closely, braize them in a wine mirepoiz (No. 236) ; when done, glaze them nicely and dish them up in # row; garnish with a group of 218 MBAT PIES. small truffies, cocks’-combs and mushrooms, at each end place a heart sweet-bread contisé with black truffles, and on the sides a border of dessert-spoon quenelles, made with game force-meat, in which has beer mixed some lobster-coral; pour a Parisian sauce (No. 40) round the partridges, and serve. Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for dressing red-legyed and common partridges, they may also be treated according to the various directions given for dressing pheasants. MEAT PIES FOR REMOVES, COMPRISING Chicken Pie, da la Retne. Veal and Ham Pie. Pigeon Pie, d ? Anglaise. Mutton Pie, d ? Anglaise, Grouse Pie, @ I’ Hcossaise. Pie of Woodcocks or Snipes, @ I’ Irlaadatse. Partridge Pie, @ eu Chasseur. Fieldfare, or Blackbird Pie, Giblet Pie, with fine herbs. Lark Pie, d la Melton Mowbray. Beefsteak and Oyster Pie. 730. CHICKEN PIE, A LA REINE. Cur two chickens into small members as for fricass -; cover the bottom of the pie-dish with layers of scollops of veal an.. ham placed alternately ; season with chopped mushroom and parsley, pepper and salt, then add a little white sauce; next, place in the dish the pieces of chicken in neat order, and round these put a plover’s egg in each cavity ; repeat the seasoning and the sauce, lay a few thin slices of dressed ham neatly trimmed on the top ; cover the pie with pufi-paste, ornament this with pieces of the same cut into the form of leaves, &c., egg the pie over with a paste-brush, and bake it for one hour and a half. A very good chicken pie may be made by omitting the plover’s eggs, mushrooms, ham, and the sauce—substituting for these, the yolks of eggs boiled hard, chopped parsley, bacon, and a little mushroom- catsup, some common gravy, or even water, 731. PIGEON PIE, A L’ ANGLAISE, Draw, truss, and singe, six young pigeons ; then, stuff them with the chopped livers, mixed with some parsley, a small piece of butter, pepper and salt. Next, cover the bottom of the dish with rather large scollops of beef, taken either from the fillet or rump; season with chopped parsley and mushrooms, pepper and salt; over these. place the pigeons, and between each pigeon put the yolk of an egg boiled hard, placing two or three in the centre also; add some white or brown sauce, whichever may be at hand, in sufficient quantity to produce sauce enough for the dish, or if neither of these be ready, ther. substitute some gravy or common broth; repeat the seasoning, cover ob pie with puff-paste, bake it for an hour and a half, and send to ‘able. 732. GROUSE PIE, A L’ECOSSAISE. ' Wuen the grouse are picked, eut off the legs and wings, and tuck the thighs inside; then, cut away the lower parts of the backs, which, REMOVES OF PIES. 219 nf permitted to remain, would, from their bitter taste, spoil the pie. Cover the bottom of the dish with large scollops of beef, seasoned with chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalots, pepper and salt; over these place the grouse, and between each bird put the yolk of an egg boiled hard; lay some small thin slices of streaky bacon or ham upon the top, and then mix a pint of good gravy with two table-spoonfuls of ‘Crosse and BiackweE.’s Oude Sauce,” and the same proportion of genuine Harvey sauce: pour this preparation into the pie, sprinkle some chopped parsley and mushrooms on the surface, cover with puff-paste, bake the pie for an hour and a half, and serve. 733. PARTRIDGE PIE, A LA CHASSEUR. Cuz the partridges into small members, in the same manner as directed for cutting up fowls for a fricassee, and set them apart on a plate. Then, cover the bottom of the pie-dish with neatly-trimmed scollops of veal, and thin slices of streaky bacon—first partially boiled to extract the salt; cover these with six spoonfuls of the following preparation: Make about half-a-pint of Soubise sauce (No. 119), to this add half that quantity of white sauce, a pottle of button-mush- rooms, some chopped parsley, and a little thyme; season with Cayenne pepper and salt. When the veal, &., 1s covered with the foregoing, place the members of the partridges in neat order upon the whole; pour the remainder of the sauce on these, and smooth over the surface with a knife; place on the top some yolks of eggs boiled hard and cut into halves, and between each yolk put a small piece of streaky bacon ; cover the pie with puff-paste, bake it for one hour and a half, and serve. 704, GIBLET PIE, WITH FINE-HERBS. Procure two sets of goose giblets (cleaned), scald them, afterwards immerse them in cold water and drain them upon a napkin. ‘Then, cut the giblets into pieces about two inches long, trim them neatly and place them in a stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, and season with pepper and a little salt; moisten with a quart of good broth and a glass of sherry, and set them to stew gently on a slow fire. When done, remove the carrot, onion, and faggot of parsley; drain the giblets into a sieve, skim off all the grease from the broth, and after having put it back into a small stewpan, thicken it with a little roux, and boil the sauce over a brisk fire for a quarter of an hour, stirring it the whole time with a wooden spoon. Reduce the sauce by boiling to about a pint, ~ and then remove it from the fire. Next, cover the bottom of the dish with scollops of fillet of beef, season with fine-herbs, consisting of mushrooms, parsley, a very little sweet-basil, and two shalots, adding Cayenne pepper, and salt ; over these pour half the sauce, then fill the dish up with the giblets, which place in neat order; sprinkle some fine-herbs upon them and pour the remainder of the sauce over the whole, Cover the pie with pufl-paste, bake it for an hour and a quarter, and send to table. 735, BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE. Cur three pounds of fillet of beef or rump-steaks into large scollopall 2 fry them quickly over a very brisk fire, so as to brown them before they 920 REMOVES OF PIES, are half done; then, place them on the bottom of the dish, leaving the centre open, in two successive layers ; fill the centre with four dozen oysters previously parboiled and bearded, season with pepper and salt, and pour the following preparation over the whole. When the scol- lops of beef have been tried in a sauta or frying pan, pour nearly all the grease out, and shake a table-spoonful of flour into it; stir this over the fire for one minute, then add a pint of good gravy or broth, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom-catsup, an equal quantity of Harvey sauce and the liquor from the oysters; stir the whole over the fire, and keep it boiling for a quarter of an hour. Half an hour after this sauce has been poured into the pie, cover it with puff-paste in the usual way, bake it for an hour and a half, and serve. 736. VEAL AND HAM PIE, Trim the veal and ham into scollops, and season with pepper and. salt in moderation. Next chop a handful of mushrooms and some parsley very fine, and put them im a small stewpan with a small pat of butter and one shalot also chopped fine; fry these lightly over the fire, then add nearly a pint of Velouté sauce or good stock; boil the: whole for five minutes and pour it into the pie ; place six yolks of eggs: boiled hard in the cavities, cover with pufi-paste, bake the pie for an hour and a half, and serve. 737, MUTTON PIE, A L’ ANGLAISE. Procure a neck of mutton, remove the scrag and the spine-bone, shorten the ribs to about three inches, and use these trimmings to make some stock or gravy for the pie. Next cut the mutton into neat chops, pare off the superfluous fat, season them with pepper and salt, and place them in the dish in circular order, one resting upon another in the same way as cutlets are dished up: fill the centre with smali new potatoes, or old ones turned into round balls; boil the mutton stock down to the quantity required to nearly fill up the dish, season with pepper and salt, cover with puff-paste, bake the pie an hour and a half, and send to table. 738, PIE OF WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES, A LIRLANDAISE. ? Prox the birds clean, cut off the legs and wings, singe them, and then cut each woodcock or snipe into halves: remove the gizzards, leaving the trail, and set them aside on a plate. Then, cover the sides and bottom of a white glazed earthen oval pan (used for pre- serving game) with very thin layers of fat bacon, place the woodcocks or snipes in the pan in close layers, each well-seasoned with ground black pepper and salt, and a small proportion of prepared aromatic spices (No. 1250). When this is done, fill up the pan with a sufficient quantity of clarified fresh butter to cover the birds, place some iayers of fat bacon on the top, cover the pan hermetically with a firm flour- and-water paste: bake the pie in a moderately-heated oven for about two hours; when it has become cold, remove the crust, wash the edges and sides of the pan, and run a little fresh clarified butter on the top; when cold, ornament with a neat border of picked double parsley, set the pie ona folded napkin, laid on its dish, and serve. This is perhaps the best method for making pies of woodcocks or snipes, as from the simplicity of the ingredients used, the birds retain ti) ‘at eee et" ies) REMOVES OF PIES. fee | their flavour: an important consideration with amateurs of this kind of game. 739. FIELDFARE OR BLACKBIRD PIE. TuEseE birds are only fit for table during the months of November, December, and January, and are in the greatest perfection during severe frosty weather. Procure a dozen fieldfares or blackbirds— which should be fat and fresh killed ; pick them very clean, draw and singe them : next cut the legs and wings off and tuck the thigh bones inside the birds, and stuff them with the following preparation : Soak the crumb of two French-rolls in a little milk, put them in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a little grated lemon-peel, a - small shalot chopped fine, and a handful of parsley also chopped ; season with pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and a pinch of aromatic spices (No. 1250) ; stir this over the fire until the whole forms a compact paste; then add the yolks of two eggs, and use this stuffing as above directed. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with scollops of »eef previously fried brown, place the birds in close circular order upon these ; between each bird put a slice of streaky bacon, and fill up the centre with stewed mushrooms prepared as follows. Clean a plateful of mushrooms, cut them up and put them in a stewpan with a small pat of butter, half a pint of rich gravy or brown sauce, two table-spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, a little Cayenne pepper and salt; stew these over a quick fire for ten minutes, and then, if gravy be used for the purpose instead of sauce, thicken it by mixing in a small pat of butter kneaded with a table-spoonful of flour. The pie must be afterwards covered with puff-paste, baked for one hour and a half, and then sent to table. 740. LARK PIE, A LA MELTON MOWBRAY. Picx clean four dozen Dunstable larks, smge them over the flame of a charcoal fire, cut off the wings and legs, and with the point of a small knife remove the gizzards, and then set the larks aside on a dish. Next cut two pounds of veal cutlets and a pound of ham into scollops ; fry these in a sautapan with a little fresh butter, a pottle of button mushrooms, some parsley and two shalots, half a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme chopped fine; season with eayenne and salt, and the juice of alemon. ‘To these add half a pint of Velouté or Espagnole sauce, ana the same quantity of rich gravy; boil the whole together for three minutes, then place the veal and ham scollops, one upon the other in the bottom of the dish; put the larks neatly and close to each other upon these, pour the sauce over them, and place the mushrooms in the pate cover with puff-paste, bake the pie for one hour and a quarter, and serve. 229 MEAT PUDDINGS, COMPRISING Beefsteak and Oyster Pudding. Pudding of small Birds, a la Chipolatu, Mutton Pudding, Snipe Pudding, ¢ la D’ Orsay. Kidney Pudding. Sausage Pudding. 741. BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING Line a two-quart pudding basin with some beef-suet paste ; fill this aning with a preparation similar to that described for making beef- steak and oyster pie, except that the sauce must be more reduced. When the pudding is filled, wet the edges of the paste round the top of the basin with a paste-brush dipped in water, cover it with a piece of suet-paste rolled out to the size of the basin, fasten it down by bearing all round the edge with the thumb ; and then with the thumb and fore-finger, twist the edges of the paste over and over so as to give it a corded appearance. This pudding must be either steamed or boiled three hours; when done, turn it out of the basin carefully, pour some rich brown gravy under it, and serve. 742. MUTTON PUDDING. Line a basin as in the above case, fill the lining with thick mutton cutlets, sightly trimmed, or if preferred, with steaks cut from the ler ; season with pepper and salt, some parsley, a little thyme and one small shalot chopped fine, and between each layer of meat, put some slices of potatoes. Cover the pudding as in the foregoing article, steam or boil it for three hours, and serve some rich gravy under it when sent to table. 743. KIDNEY PUDDING. Cur-two pounds of sheep’s or lamb’s kidneys into scollops, put them into a basin with some chopped parsley, shalot, and a little thyme; and season with pepper and salt; then add a large gravy- spoonful of good sauce, and the juice of half a lemon: mix these in- eredients well together. ‘Line a basin with suet-paste, and fill the pudding with the foregoing preparation; cover it in the usual way, steam or boil it for two hours and a half, and when sent to table, pour under it some rich brown gravy to which has been added a little Indian soy, and serve. 744, PUDDING OF SMALL BIRDS, A LA CHIPOLATA. Mosr kinds of small birds may be used for this purpose, such as larks, sparrows, fieldfares, and wheatears, &c. Take two pounds of small birds which have been picked clean, remove the gizzards, aud fry them over a brisk fire until they are browned ; add chopped mushrooms, parsley§ and shalot, season with a little grated nutmeg, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, and a large gravy- * spoonful of brown sauce, also two dozen roasted chestnuts previously peeled, and a like number of small pieces of parboiled streaky bacon : ° ne ee & SAUSAGE PUDDING. 223 boil these ingredients for three minutes, then fill the pudding with them, and cover it with paste, as usual. This pudding must be steamed on account of its richness. When done, turn it out of the basin with care, in order not to break it; pour a rich brown sauce under, and serve. This pudding may be made in a plainer manner, by omitting the mushrooms, lemon-juice, sauce, and chestnuts—following in all other respects the same process. 745. SNIPE PUDDING, A LA D’ORSAY. Pick eight fine fat fresh snipes, singe them over a charcoal flame, and divide them into halves, remove the gizzards and reserve the trail for further use ; season the snipes with a little Cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and set them aside on a dish till wanted. Then peel a Portugal onion, cut it into thin slices and fry these in a stewpan with a small piece of butter; when they are slightly browned, throw in a table-spoonful of flour, and stir them together on the fire for three minutes; then add a handful of chopped mushrooms and parsley, a small bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a small blade of mace and a clove of garlic; moisten with a pint of claret; stir the whole upon the fire, and when these have boiled ten minutes, add the trail and a piece of good glaze. Set the sauce to, boil for three minutes longer, and then rub it through a tammy into a purée upon the snipes. Next, line a pudding basin with suet-paste, fill it up with the foregoing preparation, and when covered with a piece of paste and properly fastened round the edges so as to prevent the escape of the volatile properties of the sauce, steam it in @ covered stewpan for two hours and a half. When the pudding is done, turn it out of the basin with care, pour a rich brown game gravy under it, and serve. 746. SAUSAGE PUDDING. Procure two pounds of Cambridge sausages, and twist each into three round balls ; put these into boiling water, on the stove, merely to parboil them for a minute or so, then throw them into cold water and afterwards remove the skins. Line the pudding basin with suet paste, fill it with the sausages, and pour the following preparation upon them: chop one onion and three sage leaves, boil these in water for two minutes, drain them upon a sieve, and then fry them in small stewpan with a piece of butter; as soon as they become of a light- brown colour, add a table-spoonful of flour and a tea-spoonful of cu paste, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with half a pint of good broth; stir the sauce upon the fire, and when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, rub it through a sieve or tammy, and use it as above directed. Cover the pudding with paste, steam or bake it for two hours, and when turned out of the basin, send to table with plain gravy under it. REMOVES OF BLACK GAME AND GROUSE, COMPRISING Llack Game, d la Montagnarde, Black Game, ¢ Ja Paysanne. = a PItalienne. as a la Norwegienne, &<. +3 a la Suédoise. : 747, BLACK GAME, A LA MONTAGNARDE, Cur off the legs and wings, tuck the thighs inside the birds, ard split them down the back; season well with pepper and salt, rub them over with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, and then broil them carefully on a gridiron, over a clear fire perfectly free from smoke: or place the birds in a baking-dish or sautapan with a piece of butter ; set them to bake in the oven, and baste them frequently. ‘When done, glaze them nicely, and dish them up with a border of potato croquettes, and then pour under them some Potvrade sauce (No. 29), finished with a piece of anchovy-butter and some lemon-juice. 748. BLACK GAME, A LITALIENNE. Truss the birds as for boiling, put them into an oval stewpan with garnished faggot of parsley, two carrots, two heads of celery, two onions, each stuck with three cloves, a blade of mace, twenty pepper- corns and two cloves of garlic; moisten them with a gill of brandy and a large ladleful of good stock; place a buttered paper on the top, put the lid on, and set them to braize on a very slow fire, with some live embers on the lid. If the birds are young, one hour and a quarter will suffice to braize them; but if old they will require longer time. When the birds are done, drain, glaze, and dish them up, garnish with macaroni finished with the liquor from the birds, freed from every particle of grease, and boiled down with the macaroni; to this add six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a spoonful of tomata sauce (No. 22), and four ounces of fresh butter; pour some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) over the birds and round their base, and serve. 749, BLACK GAME, A LA SUEDOISE. THEsE must be trussed as for boiling, and then placed in an oval stewpan with one pound of streaky bacon, and one pound of German sausage, a good-sized carrot, two heads of celery, two onions stuck with four cloves each, a garnished faggot of parsley, and a tea-spoon- ful of black peppercorns; moisten with three pints of fermented juice of beetroot (No. 380) and two glasses of brandy, cover with buttered paper and the lid containing live embers, and set them to braize slowly on a stove-fire partially smothered with ashes. When the birds are done, take them up on a dish and keep them covered up in the hot closet until they are dished up. Next, strain the liquor through a napkin, skim off all the grease, boil it down nearly to half-glaze, then ‘add to it a small ladleful of finished Espagnole sauce (No. 3), together with a glass of red wine; allow this sauce to boil by the side of the 4 - : i iz 7 BLACK GAME, stove-fire for five minutes; skim it and pass it through a tammy into a small stewpan, and keep it hot. Then place the black game on their dish side by side, garnish them round with carrots prepared in the Swedish fashion, and round this place another border composed of neatly-cut scollops of the streaky bacon and German sausage; pour the sauce over the remove, and serve. The carrots above alluded to should be thus prepared: slit the out- side or red part of a dozen large carrots into thin stripes, cut these again into thin shreds of about two inches long. Next, place them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and half a pint of vinegar ; season with four ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg and a little salt ; set them to stew very gently upon a partially-smothered char- coal fire, taking care to turn them over now and then with a spoon: about an hour will suffice to do them: when, if any moisture remains 1t must be boiled down, and they will be ready for use. 22 é 750. BLACK GAME, A LA PAYSANNF. Sez pheasants a la Paysanne. (No. 715.) 751. BLACK GAME, A LA NORWEGIENNE. Truss these as for roasting, lard the breasts closely with well-fur nished rows of larding; set them to braize in an oval stewpan, moistened with a mirepoix (No. 236) made with two parts of good stock and one third of French vinegar; baste the birds frequently while they are being braized, when done, set them upon a baking- sheet in the oven for two minutes to dry the larding, then glaze and dish them up; garnish with a border of stewed red cabbage dressed in the same way as French sauer-kraut (No. 165), and round this place a border of small sausages prepared as follows : Chop one pound of calf’s liver with ten ounces of fat bacon and six ounces of brown bread-crumbs, season with black pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel, some parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, and some sweet-basil, all chopped fine; add the yolks of three eggs, mix the whole thoroughly, and then form this preparation into small fiat, round, or oval sausages, which must be wrapped up in pig’s caul; fry these of a brown colour, and use them as directed above. Sauce the remove with a Poivrade (No. 29), mixed with half the liquor in which the birds have been braized, previously cleared of all grease and boiled down to half-glaze ; glaze the larding, and serve. In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing black game, they may also be served a la Soubise, a la Périgueuxr, ad la Financiere, with a purée of celery, Fichelieu sauce, braized cabbages, and dla Dauphinoise , for the preparation of which, see those articles. Note.— Grouse should be dressed in the same way as black game. PATE-CHAUDS, OR RAISED PIES FOR ENTREES, COMPRISING ; Péié-Chaud of Young Rabbits with fine- Paté-Chaud of Young Partridges @ ia herbs. . Chasseur. of a la Sauce Potvrade. Be of Ox Palates, d PItaliénne. - of Leverets with Truffles, a af of Quails, @ la Financiére. la Périgueux. a of Larks boned, @ U’E'ssence. f of ditto ad la Financiere. . : of Snipes, @ la Bordelaise. ,s of Godiveau a la Ciboulette. Pdté-Chaud Cases. 752, PATE-CHAUD* OF YOUNG RABBITS, WITH FINE-HERBS, Cur up two young rabbits into small members, place these in ‘a deep sautapan with two ounces of butter, a handful of chopped mush- rooms, some parsley and two shalots chopped also; season with pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg and a garnished faggot. Then set the rabbits on a brisk fire, and fry them of a light-brown colour; add a glass of French white wine, cover the sautapan with its lid contain- ing some live embers of charcoal, and again set them on the fire to stew very gently for twenty minutes, when they will be done. Next, add a gravy-spoonful of brown sauce, a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together over the fire, and allow it to boil sharply for two minutes; then dish up the pieces of rabbit neatly in the pie, pour the sauce over them, and serve. 753. PATE-CHAUD OF YOUNG RABBITS, A LA SAUCE POIVRADE. Cur the rabbits into small members, and place them in a sautapan with about two ounces of clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, * General directions for making a Pdté-Chaud, or raised pie, will be found in that part of the work which treats of Entrées of Pasty. -and then set them over a brisk fire to be tred brown; next, add a glass of Madeira, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut ; cover the sautapan with its lid containmg some live embers of charcoal, and again place it upon a moderate fire, that the rabbits may stew very gently for twenty minutes longer; then add some Powrade sauce (No. 29) in sufficient quantity for the entrée, allow the whole to boil together for three minutes, garnish the pdté-chaud as in the former case, and send to table. 754. PATE-CHAUD OF LEVERETS, WITH TRUFFLES, A LA PERIGUEUX. Tx leverets must be cut into small members or joints as follows :— First, take off the hind legs and make two pieces of these; detach the shoulders, and cut the loins transversely into pieces about two inches long ; split the head into halves, trim the whole neatly without waste, and place these members in a sautapan with three ounces of clarified butter: season with pepper and salt, and set them on a brisk fire to be fried brown. Next, add four ounces of truffles cut into thick scollops, and a small piece of glaze, cover with the lid containing live embers of charcoal, and replace the sautapan on a slow fire, to simmer for twenty minutes longer. Then add the Périgueux sauce (No. 23), allow the whole to boil together. for three minutes, garnish the pdté-chaud, and serve. 755, PATE-CHAUD OF LEVERETS, A LA FINANCIERE. Prepare these in the manner directed in the foregoing article, and when the members of the leverets are ready to receive the sauce, add a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188); after the whole has boiled together for three minutes, garnish the pie, and serve. A border of large white cocks’-combs may be placed round the edge , of the pie, and a larded sweetbread or a large truffle in the centre. 756. PATE-CHAUD OF GODIVEAU, A LA CIBOULETTE. To one pound and a half of sifted flour, add three-quarters of a pound of butter, the yolks of two eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt, and about a gill and a half of cold water, then knead the whole into a fine smooth paste. Take rather more than two-thirds of this, mould it into a round ball with the palm of the hand, and afterwards roll it out to the size of a common dinner-plate ; then with the fingers of both hands, take up the edges of the paste to the depth of two inches, and gather it into the shape of a round or oval purse (according to the shape of the dish): and having previously buttered a raised pie- mould for the purpose, line it with the paste, by first rolling it out and then pushing the paste into the mouldings of the case with another piece of paste, used as a cushion for the purpose. When the mould is thus lined, fill it with some godiveau (No. 251), previously mixed with some chopped chives or green onions, parsley, and mush- rooms ; smooth the top over with the blade of a knife dipped in water, cover the pie with the remainder of the paste, and after it has been neatly fastened and trimmed round the edge, nip it round with the pastry-pincers ; place upon the top a cireular piece of puff-paste, ege this over with the paste-brush, and score it with the point of a small knife, furming some device or ornament. Make a small hole in the Q 2 ¥ ail * ee PATE-CHAUDS, 29 a Ke 228 RAISED PIES FOR ENTREES. centre for the steam to escape, bake the pie for one hour and a quarter, and when it is done, remove the top carefully with a knife; score the godiveau to the bottom, in the shape of squares or diamonds ; pour some Poivrade, Italian, or Espagnole sauce over it, and after replacing the cover, send to table. 757. PATE-CHAUD OF YOUNG PARTRIDGES, A LA CHASSEUR. WueEn the partridges have been drawn and singed, cut them into small joints as follows :—First, remove the legs and wings; then cut the fillets with the pinion-bone adhering to them, leaving the breast- piece entire, as also the back, after having detached the thighs. Let all these be neatly trimmed without waste, and observe that the skin of the thighs must be rolled under to give them an appearance of plumpness. Next, place them in neat order in a deep sautapan with three ounces of clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, and a little grated nutmeg; fry them brown over a brisk fire, after which add a glass of Madeira or sherry, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, four ounces of truffles cut into thick scollops, and two dozen button- mushrooms. Cover this with the lid contaiming some live embers of charcoal, and set the sautapan again on a moderate fire to simmer gently for a quarter of an hour: then, remove the lid, add some brown Italian sauce in sufficient quantity for the entrée, allow the whole to boil together for three minutes longer, add the juice of half a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley; toss these in with the partridges, &c., garnish the pie, keeping back the truffles and mushrooms to place on the top, lastly pour the sauce, and serve. 758, PATE-CHAUD OF OX-PALATES, A L’ITALIENNE. Proctvre six fresh ox-palates, steep them in tepid water for six hours, then throw them into a large stewpan of boiling water and scald them for about five minutes ; after which immerse the palates in cold water, and scrape off all the white cuticle from the surface; next, wash them in plenty of cold water, and drain them on a napkin. Then place them in an oval stewpan, moisten with some blanc (No. 235), covered with buttered paper, and put on the lid, and set them to braize very gently over a slow fire for about four hours. As soon as the palates are done, put them in press between two baking-sheets or earthen dishes, and when they are cold, take a circular tin-cutter an inch in diameter, and cut them into scollops without wasting any part. Put these into a stewpan with about two dozen large button- mushrooms cut into scollops, also two dozen raviolis (No. 375), and enough brown Italian sauce for the entrée; boil the whole together for two minutes, garnish the pie, and serve. 759. PATE-CHAUD OF QUAILS, A LA FINANCIERE. For a small entrée, eight fine fat quails will suffice; bone these Dy making an incision in that part of the back nearest the crop, through which all the bones, &c., must be drawn out, so as to give them as much as possible the appearance of being whole. Next, fill each quail with some farcs of fat livers (No. 249), and truss them with their legs turned back: be careful that the crop is securely fastened ‘in order to prevent the stuffing from escaping—a large worsted needle and very fine twine must be used for the purpose. Then, place the “ane, " { i walt -_ et VOL AU VENTS. 229 uails in a stall fricandeau pan which has been previously lined witk thin layers of fat bacon; in the centre place a garnished faggot of parsley ; cover the whole with more layers of fat bacon, moisten with a wine mirepoix (No.236), and having put a buttered paper over ail, set the lid on the pan and place it on astove-fire, or in the oven, to braize very gently for about three-quarters of an hour. As soon as the quails are done, drain them on a dish, set them to cool, and trim them neatly. Next, line the inside of the pie with some of the remainder of the farce of fat livers, to within an inch of the top, place the quails in it in circular order, with the breasts uppermost, and a thin layer of the force-meat between each; cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, place a double round of paper well-buttered on the top, and then set the pie in the oven to bake: this will take about an hour. When done, remove the bacon, drain off all the grease care- fully, place a decorated small fillet of fowl in between each quail, and on the breast of each, a large white button-mushroom, round the edge a border of large white cocks’-combs, and in the centre a larded heart sweetbread; sauce sparingly with a bright /inanciére (No. 8) mixed with some reduced extract of quails made from the bones, Note-—Observe, that the raised pie for this purpose, must be only half baked previously to filling it with the quails: as it has to undergo another baking. ‘This remark refers also to the two succeeding cases. 769. PATE-CHAUD OF LARKS BONED, A L’ESSENCE. Foxttow the preceding directions, but substituting larks for quails. 761. PATE-CHAUD OF SNIPES, A LA BORDELAISE. Bone eight snipes, and with the trail and one pound of fat livers, make some force-meat for gratin (No. 249), and with part of this fill the snipes; truss them in the same way as directed for the quails, and braize them accordingly, after which follow in all respects the second part of the directions. When the pie is baked, drain off care- fully all the grease; between each snipe place a large white cocks- comb, on the breast of each put a small fillet of fowl, decorated with red tongue, and afterwards turned round in a circle, with a round ball of black truffle in the centre: these fillets must be placed in a smal] sautapan between thin layers of fat bacon, and set in the oven for about three minutes; garnish the edge of the pie with a close border of scollops of red tongue cut in the form of large cocks’-combs, in the centre put a large truffle, bearing a double comb, and a border of these round its base; sauce the pie carefully with arich Bordelaise (No. 57), mixed with some reduced extract of snipes, made from the bones, and serve. VOL AUVENTS AND TOURTES, COMPRISING Vol’awvent, ala Nésle. Vol’au’vent of Salt Fish, a ? Anglaise. s a la Financiere. Tourte of Whitings, a la Dauphine. Me of Turbot, @ la Béchamel. ,, of Godiveau au Madere. a of Salmon, @ la Ravigotte. » of Ox Palates, a la Frangaise. a of Cod, d la Créme. », of Lobsters, d la Cardinal, 762. VOL’AU’VENTS, A LA NESLE.* CLEANSE one set of calf’s-brains, and boil them in a stewpan with water, a small carrot and an onion both sliced very thin, two cloves, a little mace, twelve pepper-corns, and a little salt, for a quarter of an hour; when done, remove them from the fire to get cold. Prepare also a throat sweetbread, which must be steeped in tepid water for two hours or more, then scalded, cooled in water, and gently simmered on the stove in some toppings of white consommé for a quarter of an hour ; when done, put the sweetbread on a plate to get cold. Prepare also twelve quenelles of fowl, moulded in dessert-spoons, and poached, a like quantity of large button-mushrooms, and the same proportion of double cocks’-combs, and round balls of black truffles. Put these into a middle-sized stewpan, add to them the calf’s-brains and sweet- bread, previously cut into neat scollops, and just before dinner-time, pour over the whole sufficient Allemande sauce (No. 7) for the entrée (previously mixed with a small piece of good glaze, and two tea- spoonfuls of Chili vinegar). Toss the whole lightly together over the fire, and with this ragout garnish a handsome vol’aw’vent, cut either square, oval, or round, so as to suit the shape of the dish. The top of this entrée may be ornamented. with very small fillets of fowls, decorated with red tongue or black truffle: or a border of small quenelles, decorated similarly, may also be placed round the edge of the vol'awvent, and a small larded sweetbread in the centre of these. 763. VOL’AU’VENT, A LA FINANCIERE, Sze the directions for a pdté-chaud, dla Financiére (No. 759) ; substi- tuting a vol’au’ vent for the shell or crust. 764, VOL’AU’VENT OF TURBOT, A LA BECHAMEL. Tus entrée is generally served when there happens to be any turbot reserved from a previous day’s dinner ; in which case, the fish must be pulled, or cut into scollops, warmed in a rich Béchamel sauce (No. 5), made with a full proportion of cream ; let the vol’au’vent be filled with this, and sent to table. 765. VOL’AU'VENT OF SALMON, A LA RAVIGOTTE. Procvre 2 lbs. of fresh salmon, cut it into rather thick round scol- lops about two inches in diameter ;. place these in a sautapan, with * Instructions for making a vol’au’vent case will be found in that part of the wurk treating of Puff-paste. TOURTES. 231 8 oz. of clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. When about to send to table, set the sautapan containing the scollops in the oven, or on a stove-fire for about five minutes, then turn them over in the pan with a fork, taking care not to break them ; allow them to remain on the fire five minutes longer, and drain them upon a clean napkin. Next, put the scollops into a stewpan, with sufficient Allemande sauce (No. 7) for the entrée, add two tea-spoonfuls of tarragon-vinegar, the like quantity of Harvey Sauce, a tea-spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and a little cayenne ; toss the whole together lightly over the fire, and with this garnish a handsome vol’au’vent, and serve. 766, VOL’AU’VENT OF COD, A LA CREME. CRIMPED cod is best for this purpose, although plain cod may be used, but, in either case, the fish must be dressed in boiling water, with plenty of salt thrown in at the same time. A few minutes, in most instances, will suffice to boil this kind of fish, especially if it be crimped. If allowed to remain in the water after it is done, it be- comes soft and tasteless. When the cod is boiled, drain it upon a napkin, and as soon as all the water has been absorbed, put the flakes and the sounds carefully, without breaking them up, into a stewpan, containing enough rich cream Béchamel (No. 6) for the entrée, to this add 2 oz. of grated fresh Parmesan cheese, and the juice of a lemon ; toss the whole together over the fire, with care, so as to avoid breakme the pieces ; when it is quite hot, garnish the vol’aw vent, and serve. , 767. VOL’AU’VENT OF SALT FISH, A L’ ANGLAISE. Tx whitest and thickest fish are the best for this purpose. About 2 Ibs. will suffice: cut from the middle of the fish, and soak it in cold water for forty-eight hours previously to its being dressed, the water being changed every six hours. Set the fish on im cold water, and when it boils remove the scum, and set it by the side of the stove to finish boiling. As soon as it is done, drain it on a sieve, or a napkin, and when all the water is absorbed from it, remove it in large flakes into a stewpan, containing some scollops of dressed parsnips, in the proportion of one-third to the quantity of the fish, and a like quantity of slices of eggs, boiled hard; to these add enough cream Béchamel sauce (No. 6) for the entrée; toss the whole gently over a stove-fire, until quite hot, then garnish a large vol’aw’vent with this ragout, and serve. 768. TOURTE* OF WHITINGS, A LA DAUPHINE. Procure four large fresh whitings, fillet them, and set one-half aside on a plate in a cool place; with the remainder prepare some quenelle force-meat (No. 245), which, when finished, gather up in a basin, and mould with dessert-spoons into quenelles. Trim the four remaining fillets, cut each in two, transversely, and after paring off the angles, decorate or contises them in manner following: Place the fillet lengthwise upon the edge of the kitchen table, then make meisions across with a knife, cutting down in a slanting direction, * Directions for making this kind of Zourte will be-found in that part of the work which treats of Puff-pastry. 939 TOURTES and in these openings insert smai. round thin scollops of rea tongue, black truffle, or green gherkins. Next, place these in a sautapan, with 4oz. of clarified butter, season with a little salt, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them; cover with thin layers of fat bacon, or a round of paper buttered, and set them aside in the larder till wanted. While this is gomg on, make an extract, or essence, with the bones and trimmings of the whitings, as follows :—Put the bones, &c., into a stewpan, with two shalots, one bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, eight pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a handful of parsley ; moisten with two glasses of white wine (French is preferable), and a pint of white broth. Set this to boil gently on the stove-fire for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve; boil it down nearly to a glaze, and mix it with enough Allemande sauce, or Béchamel, for the entrée, and pass it through a tammy into a stewpan, containing the quenelles of whiting before alluded to, with the addition of a dozen button- mushrooms, double that quantity of crayfish-tails and claws, trimmed, and 3 oz. of truffles, cut into thick slices; toss the whole together gently over the fire until quite hot, then garnish the fourte with this ragout, and with the fillets before mentioned (previously set in the oven for ten minutes to simmer, and afterwards drained on a napkin), make a border round the inner edge of the Vol’aw’vent, or tourte ; place a group of crayfish-tails, previously warmed in a small stewpan, with a bit of glaze, and a morsel of lobster-coral butter _ (to colour them), and crown the whole with a large crayfish, trimmed, having one prong of each claw stuck into its tail; sauce neatly with the remainder of the sauce, and serve quickly. 769. TOURTE OF GODIVEAU, AU MADERE. Prepare about 1 lb. of godiveau (No. 250), and make it into small quenelles in the following manner :—Shake a handful of flour over a pastry-slab, or kitchen-table ; drop the godiveau thereon with a tea- spoon, in small quantities; then roll each of these with the fingers. dipped in flour, to the size and form of a common cork; set them im regular order upon a baking-sheet, and put them to bake in the over for about ten minutes; when done, remove them into a stewpan, containing some Madeira sauce (No. 8), in sufficient quantity for the entrée, and also two artichoke-bottoms, cut into angular pieces, a few scollops of sweetbreads, some ox-piths, cut into inch-lengths, and a few large button-mushrooms; set the whole to boil on the stove-fire for three minutes ; garnish the ¢ourte, and on the top of the ragout, place eight trimmed crayfish, in the centre of which put a large truffle, cr small sweetbread, larded and glazed; pour in the remainder of the sauce, and serve. 770. TOURTE OF OX-PALATES, A LA FRANCAISE, PREPARE the ox-palates as directed in the first part of the article treating of the Pdté chaud of ox-palates. Put the scollops into a stewpan containing one-fourth part of their quantity of red tongue cut into round scollops, and a like proportion of button mushrooms and scollops of truffles; to which add enough Poivrade sauce (No. 29) for the entrée; boil the whole together, and garnish the tourte with this ragout, put the cover on, and serve. TIMBALES OF MACARONI. . 233 771. TOURTE OF SCOLLOPS OF LOBSTER, A LA CARDINAL. Prick the lobster out of the shell, and cut it into neat scollops ; put these into a stewpan containing enough good Béchamel sauce (No. 6) for the entrée, mixed with about two ounces of lobster coral butter (No. 182), a little cayenne and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together over the fire until sufficiently hot, and with it garnish the towrte ; put the cover on, and serve. TIMBALES OF MACARONT, COMPRISING Timbale of Maccaroni, a la Milanaise. Timbale of Soft Roes of Mackerel, @ 7? At- of d la Mazarin. lemande. Ae of Nouilles, ad la Chas- >» of Raviolis, d la Romaine. seur. . yi uw aA, : aXe SLY INS VAN ee wi Aw eS, RNS ae Timbale Cases. 772. TIMBALE* OF MACARONI, A LA MILANAISE. Tux timbale case should be left in the mould to be made hot in the oven, and when just on the point of sending it to table, garnish it with macaroni dressed with cheese, some Béchamel sauce, scollops of fowl, truffles, tongues, and mushrooms; turn the timbale out on its dish, glaze it, pour some Béchamel sauce round the base, and serve. 773. TIMBALE OF MACARONI, A LA MAZARIN. Bort one pound of macaroni in two quarts of water, with a pat of butter, eight pepper-corns and a little salt; when done, and cold, put * The mode of preparing the timbale case will be found described under the head ot Pastry for Entrées. 234 - TIMBALES OF MACARONL about half of it to dram upon a napkin. Butter the inside of a plain round oval or square mould, according to the shape of the dish ; cut the macaroni into half-inch lengths, and cover the bottom of the mould with these, placing them on end; cover this with a thick layer of chicken quenelle force-meat ; then line the sides of the mould in the same way, and as soon as this is completed, smooth the inside with the back of a spoon dipped in hot water; fill this cavity with a blanquette of fowl (No. 204), the sauce of which must be thick, and cover the whole with a layer of force-meat, to be applied as follows :— Spread some force-meat upon a round of buttered paper to fit the mould; smooth the surface with a knife dipped in hot water, then take hold of the paper with both hands and turn it upside down upon the timbale: the paper is to be left on, as that can be easily removed when the force-meat has become set by steaming. About an hour and a half before dinner-time, place the timbale in a stewpan twice its size upon a trivet or ring to prevent it from touching the bottom, so that the water contained in the stewpan, which must only reach half-way up the mould, may circulate freely under it. The stewpan must be covered with its lid containmg some live embers of charcoal, and placed, after it has boiled, upon a slow fire to simmer gently but con- tinually, in order to keep up the steam during the whole of the time. Just before sending to table, remove the piece of paper from the tim- bale, and take a firm hold of the bottom of the mould with the left hand; place the dish upside down upon the mould with the right hand; then, with the left hand uppermost, place the dish on the table, and carefully lift the mould off the timbale. Pour some Supréme sauce (No. 38) over the entreé, garnish the base with white cock’s-combs, truffles and mushrooms, and serve. (74 TIMBALE OF NOUILLES, A LA CHASSEUR. PREPARE about one pound of nouilles (No. 679), parboil these in water for ten minutes; drain, and put them into a stewpan witha | quart of good consommé, a pat of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and a pinch of mignionette pepper; cover the whole with a round piece of ‘buttered paper, put on the lid, and set the stewpan on a stove-fire to boil very gently until the consommé is reduced ; add a gravy-spoonful of Allemande sauce, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and two dozen very small guenelles of game, previously poached; toss the whole to- gether lightly over the fire until the cheese is well mixed with the other ingredients; garnish the timbale case, previously prepared for this purpose, turn it out of the mould into its dish, glaze it over, pour a little half glaze round the base, and serve. 775. TIMBALE GARNISHED WITH SOFT ROES OF MACKEREL. F'tvE minutes before sending to table, garnish the timbale case, which must be quite hot, with a ragout of soft roes of mackerel (No. ~99); then turn the timbale out of the mould into the dish, glaze it nicely, pour a little Supréme or Béchamel sauce round the base, and serve. CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE. 235 - 776. TIMBALE OF RAVIOLIS, A LA ROMAINE, Prepare four dozen raviolis, (No. 375), and after they have been boiled in consommé, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a stew- pan containing four ounces of truffles cut into scollops, the like quan- tity of scollops of red tongue, and about twenty mushrooms; to these add two glasses of Madeira, and one ounce of game glaze, and set the whole to boil down quickly over a brisk fire; when the wine is ab- sorbed, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a large gravy- spoonful of reduced Hspagnole sauce; toss these together over the stove-fire until quite hot, then garnish the timbale case, turn it out into its dish, glaze it, pour a little brown sauce or half glaze round the base, and serve. CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE, COMPRISING Casserole of Rice. Casserole of Rice, garnished with a Puree iy a la Polonaise, 7 of Game, a la Belle-vue. ie a la Reine. an garnished with wings of Fowl, a? Allemande. 777. CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE. NYS A cassevole of rice is justly considered one of the most elegant entrees : it requires great care throughout its preparation, especially in the treatment of the rice, that being its basis, and upon the success of this much of the beauty of the casserole depends. If the rice be not sufficiently boiled, and effectually worked into a smooth paste, it be- comes a difficult matter to mould it: and any apparent roughness would spoil the look of the casserole. 236 CASSEROLES OF RICE. For a casserole of ordinary size, wash about a pound and a half of Carolina rice in three waters, drain it on a sieve, and put it into a stewpan with nearly twice its quantity of water, six ounces of butter, a small ladleful of stock-pot toppings and a piece of raw ham; cover with a circular piece of buttered paper and the lid, and set the rice to boil on the stove, after which 1t must be put in the oven, or on a smothered stove-fire, to simmer very gently. During the time that the rice remains on the fire, it should be carefully turned over with a spoon twice or thrice. When all the grains become perfectly soft, the rice must be worked into a firm compact paste with the bowl of a large wooden spoon ; it should next be rolled into the form of a ball, and placed on a baking-sheet, previously covered with a circular piece of buttered paper, and shaped to the height and circumference de- sired. Next, for the purpose of imprinting upon the casserole the ornamental mouldings represented in the annexed illustrations, it will be necessary to cut a piece of turnip, carrot, or raw potato, in the form of a chisel, to be used for indenting or moulding the design. When the casserole is moulded, it must be sprinkled over with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, and afterwards baked of a fine yellow colour; the interior must then be removed with a spoon, leaving the walls of the crust about half-an-inch thick; smooth the inside of the rice with the back of a table-spoon dipped in water, and keep the casserole in a dry place till it is wanted for use. 778. CASSEROLE OF RICE, A LA POLONAISE, PREPARE a purée of fowls (No. 1009), and when on the point of sending to table, stir it over the fire until it is sufficiently hot, care being taken to prevent its becoming rough; then fill the casserole with the purée, place eight eggs (previously boiled four minutes, and the shells removed), round the top of the purée; between each egg, put a small fillet of fowl decorated with tongue or truffle, sauce the surface of the purée with some Supréme (No. 38), and serve. 779. CASSEROLE OF RICE, A LA REINE. Tu1s-must be garnished with a purée of fowls in a similar manner to the foregoing, and a border of quenelles of fowl placed round the inner edge of the surface ; sauce with Supréme, glaze the casserole with light-coloured glaze, and serve. 780, CASSEROLE OF RICE, GARNISHED WITH A PUREE OF GAME, A LA BELLE-VUE. Just before dinner-time, warm the purée of game (No. 1090) pre- pared for the purpose, garnish the casserole of rice with it, place round the inner edge of the surface a border of very small fillets (decorated contisés with truffles or tongues), of the kind of game the purée is made from, pour a little Allemande sauce over the centre of the purée, glaze the casserole lightly, and serve. : 781. CASSEROLE OF RICE, GARNISHED WITH WINGS OF FOWLS, A L’ALLEMANDE. THE casserole of rice must be garnished with a ragout of wings of fowls (No. 208), to which may be added some small truffles and mushrooms; ornament it with a border of large cocks’-combs, and BORDERS OF POTATO-PASTE, 237 scollops of red tongue cut in the form of cocks’-combs, placed alternately round the inner edge of the casserole, glaze it lightly, and serve. Note.— Casseroles, or Borders of rice, may also be garnished with fricassee of chickens, lamb’s-feet, blanquettes of sweetbreads or fowls, and with all kinds of scollops, whether of poultry, game or fish. ORNAMENTAL BORDERS OF POTATO-PASTE, COMPRISING Border of Potato-paste, garnished with Border of Potato-paste, garnished with Scol- Scollops of Larks and lops of Sheep’s tongues, Truffles, with fine-herbs. a garnished with Lamb’s rr garnished with Calf’s Brains, Feet, dla Pascaline. a la Ravigotte. Pp garnished with Ox Pa- lates, d [ Indiénne. 782. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS OF LARKS AND TRUFFLES. A BORDER of potato-paste resembles in a great measure a casserole of rice, and is prepared as follows :— For an ordinary size entrée, fifteen large potatoes should be baked, and their pulp afterwards rubbed through a fine wire-sieve upon a dish ; this must be put into a middle-sized stewpan with four ounces of butter, the yolks of six eggs, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, Stir the whole with a wooden spoon over a slow fire until the mixture becomes a smooth compact paste; it should then be rolled into a ball, placed on a baking-sheet, and shaped to the height and circumference designed. The border should now be moulded in the same way as a casserole of rice, for which purpose consult the mouldings represented in the designs of casseroles of rice (No. 777), and are to be executed with a piece of raw carrot or turnip, cut in the form of a chisel. When the border is moulded, it should be egged over with a soft paste-brush, and baked in an oven, of a light yellow colour; when done, part of the inside must be removed, and the cavity smoothed over with the back of the bowl of aspoon. The horder ought to be kept in a dry place till wanted for use. Put the border in the screen or hot closet to get warm, five minutes before sending to table; garnish it with a ragout of scollops of larks and truffles (No. 205), place a border of small quenelles of fowl round the edge, lightly glaze the border, pour a little of the sauce round the base, and serve. $ 783. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH LAMBS’ FEET, A LA PASCALINE, ProctvreE a dozen lambs’-feet ready scalded, remove the shin-bone, parboil them for five minutes, immerse them in cold water, drain them on a napkin to absorb the water, then stick them one at a time upon the point of an iron skewer, and singe off the hair (if not already re- moved by scalding), over the flame of a charcoal fire. Next, braize 238 BORDERS OF POTATO-PASTE, them gently in some Jlanc (No. 236), for about three-quarters of an hour. When the feetare done, drain them on a napkin, cut out the black substance to be found between the cushions of the hoof, trim them neatly without waste, and put them into a stewpan with a little of their own liquor. Five minutes before sending to table, pour off the liquor from the feet, previously warmed, then add half a pottle of prepared button-mushrooms, and enough Pascaline sauce (No. 15) for the entrée ; toss the whole together over the stove-fire for two minutes, and garnish the border of potato-paste with this ragout; glaze the border lightly, and serve. 784. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS OF OX-PALATES, A L INDIENNE. Prepare the ox-palates according to the directions contained in (No. 209), add enough well-reduced Indian curry sauce (No. 47) for the entrée, warm the ragout and garnish the border of potato with it, iust before sending to table. Some plain boiled Patna rice must be served in a plate. 785. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS OF SHEEP’S TONGUES, WITH FINE-HERBS. Scab eight sheep’s tongues effectually, so as to be able to remove the outer skin easily ; then trim them, and afterwards put them into a stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, and a dozen pepper-corns ; moisten with a quart of broth, and set them to braize gently for about an hour. When done, drain them on a.dish, and set them in the larder to get cold, afterwards to be cut into neat circular scollops; put these into a stewpan with half a pottle of prepared button-mushrooms, and enough well-reduced fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), for the entrée ; toss these together over the stove-fire to warm them thoroughly, then garnish the border of potato- paste with this ragowt, glaze it round, and serve. 786. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH CALF’S- BRAINS, A LA RAVIGOTTE. Stezp two sets of calf’s-brains in tepid water for several hours to cleanse them, and as soon as the thin membrane which covers the brains becomes loosened, detach it gently with the fingers; change the water frequently, and when tne brains have become comparatively white, put them into a stewpan with a quart of boiling water, half a gill of vinegar, some sliced carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, mignionette-pepper, and salt; allow them to boil gently by the side of the fire for twenty minutes, then remove the brains carefully with a large spoon into another stewpan, pass their liquor through a sieve on them, and set them aside till within twenty minutes of dinner-time. The brains must then be warmed in their liquor, and afterwards cut into thick scollops lengthwise, and placed in the border of potato in circular order, overlapping each other ; pour a Ravigotte sauce (No. ® over the brains, glaze the border, and serve. | “e209 CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES, COMPRISING Chartreuse of Vegetables, with Partridges. Chartreuse of Vegetables, with Tendons of ae ; with Quails. Veal. SIMS IS iad < ; ry \\})}2== Ny, es lt 789. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH PAR- TRIDGES. SoraPve eight large carrots, and parboil them in water with a little salt for ten minutes ; then put them to boil in some broth with a little sugar and salt, and a small pat of butter; when done, place them on a dish in the larder to get cold. In the mean time, eight large turnips should be peeled, and boiled in the same way as the carrots, and then he on a dish to cool. Next, a plain round mould must be lined with uttered paper, and the prepared carrots and turnips cut into appropri- ate forms or shapes for the purpose of arranging them over the bottom , and round the inside of the mould, taking care that they fit in with each other, so as to represent any of the foregoing designs. Mean- while parboil three large savoy cabbages in water; then immerse them in cold water, after which squeeze the moisture from them ; spread them upon a napkin on the table, take out the cores, season with mignionette-pepper and salt, and tie each up with string. Then, put the cabbages into a large stewpan with three partridges trussed with their legs inside, one pound of streaky bacon (previously par- boiled), and two large saveloys ; season with two onions stuck with four cloves, two carrots, and a garnished faggot; moisten with three pints of stock, cover with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and set them to braize gently for about two hours, if the birds are young, or three hours if not. When done, drain the cabbage into a colander, 240 CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES, | i : ut the partridges, bacon, and saveloys on a dish to cool; squeeze the ate from the cabbage by pressing it tightly ina strong kitenen rub- ber; then chop it and afterwards put it into a stewpan with a spoon- ful of brown sauce, and stir it quickly over a brisk fire until it resembles a somewhat firm paste. Use this preparation to garnish the bottom and sides of the chartreuse, about an inch thick. The partridges must be cut up neatly into small members, tossed in enough brown sauce to moisten them, and then placed in the cayity of the chartreuse in close order, so as to give it solidity when turned out of the mould on its dish; a layer of prepared cabbage should be placed over these, and the whole covered with a circular piece of buttered paper. An hour before dinner, the chartreuse must be placed in a stewpan with sufficient water to reach up only one-third the height of the mould; then'set the lid on, and put the stewpan near or upon a slow fire to keep the water gently simmering, so that the steam may warm the chartreuse through. When about to serve, turn the char- treuse up-side-down in the dish, and draw the mould off with care, remove the paper, and garnish the base with a close border of the bacon and sayeloys cut into scollops; pour some brown sauce (worked with essence of vegetables) round the entrée, glaze the chartreuse carefully, so as not to disturb the order of the vegetables, and serve. ' These directions will serve for the preparation of several kinds of chartreuses : pheasant, duckling, pigeons, &c., bemg substituted for partridges. 788. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH QUAILS, ETC. Tux preparation of this kind of chartreuse is yery similar to the foregoing, cabbage-lettuces being substituted for savoys ; the following are the only alterations required: the mould required must be either oval or round, according to the shape of the dish imtended to be used, and should be lined with buttered paper, and ornamented with carrots and tyrnips prepared according to the directions given in the first part of the previous article, and afterwards cut out, either with a small knife, or proper-shaped tin-cutters, to suit the design intended to be represented, from one of the patterns given in the foregoing designs. The cavity left in the mould, after it has been decorated with the vegetables, must be filled up with the braized cabbage lettuces warmed in the same manner as directed for the last-mentioned chartreuse. ‘When about to send to table, turn the chartreuse out on its dish, place the quails (prepared as for a pdté-chaud, No. 759, and kept warm) upon the upper part of the chartreuse, with their breasts outward; fill the centre of the entrée with a Jardiniére of vegetables (No. 144), garnish the base with small scollops ofthe streaky bacon and saveloys, pour some thin bright Zspagnole sauce round the entrée, glaze the chartreuse lightly, and serve. 789. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH TENDONS OF VEAL AND STEWED PEAS. In this case the chartreuse snould be prepared in the same manner as described in the foregoing recipe; and when turned out on its dish preparatory to serving it, the top of the border must be garnished with braized tendons of veal (No. 885), placed in the same way as cut- lets are dished up; the well or centre of the entrée, must be filled with CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES. 241 ___ stewed peas, then pour some brown sauce round the base, glaze the chartreuse, and serve. ; This kind of chartreuse may be garnished with scollops of pheasants, artridges, larks, &c.; and also with blanquettes of fowls, lambs’ sweet- reads, &c. The ornamental part of these entrées may be much varied, byusing asparagus-heads, green-peas, French-beans, artichoke-bottoms, glazed button-onions, carrots, and turnips turned in fanciful shapes and forms. A good effect is produced by arranging a decoration in relief on the top of the chartreuse after it has been turned out of the mould on to its dish: its base may also be garnished with alternato groups of vegetables cut in small fanciful shapes and prepared in the usual manner. ; FORCE-MEAT CHARTREUSES, COMPRISING Chartreuse, ad la Parisiénne. Chartreuse, a la Cardinal. 4s ad la Belle Vue. 790. CHARTREUSE, A LA PARISIENNE. First prepare some quenelle force-meat (No. 242), with the fillets of three fowls; trim the tails of sixty boiled crayfish, trim also eight inner or minion fillets of fowls, and then simmer these in a little clari- fied butter and lemon-juice over the fire till they are done; then put them on a plate, covered with thin layers of fat bacon, to keep them moist, until they are wanted for further use. Next butter a large-sized char- lotte-mould, and dispose round the inner angle of the bottom a close border of crayfish-tails; while up the sides of the mould; some long strips, or pipes of black trutfle (cut out with a tin vegetable-cutter), must be arranged alternately with the prepared: fillets of fowls, so as to form a decoration representing the “ Grecian-key border ;’’ round the top of this, which, when the mould is turned upside down, forms the base, place another close border of crayfish-tails: after which, the bottom and sides of the chartreuse must be lined with a coating of the prepared quenelle force- meat, thus :—butter a circular piece of paper, cut exactly to the size of the mould, and spread thereon a layer of the force-meat, an inch thick ; smooth this over with a knite dipped in hot water, and then, with great care, take hold of the sides of the paper with both hands, and turn it upside down into the mould; pass the bottom of a small bain-marie filled with hot water over the paper, that the butter may become melted, by which the paper will be easily removed. Next, cut three pieces of paper to fit in with each other, so as effectually to line the mould; butter these, and then spread them with force-meat, as directed for the bottom piece, and apply them in the same way, | R 242, FORCE-MEAT CHARTREUSES. | . ’ Then smooth the cavity with a spoon dipped in hot water, and fill it to within an inch of its surface with a thickly-garmshed ragout d la Toulouse cold (No. 187). Cover in the top with force-meat, leaving the piece of paper on, and keep the chartreuse in a cool place till within two hours of dinner-time. It should then be put to steam in a deep stewpan, containing sufficient water to reach nearly half way up the mould. The water must be kept continually boiling by the side of a slow fire, and the stewpan covered with its lid contaming live embers of charcoal. | When the chartreuse is done, turn it out of the mould carefully into its dish; cover the top with a border of button-mushrooms, placed near the edge, and in the centre put a star, formed with eight very small fillets of fowl, decorated with black truffles (previously turned in the form of a crescent, on a buttered sautapan, covered with very thin layers of fat bacon, and gently simmered in the oven for three minutes) ; garnish the base of the chartreuse with some thin Toulouse ragout, glaze the sides lightly, and serve. 791. CHARTREUSE, A LA BELLE-VUE. Butter smoothly the inside of a plain cylinder mould, and dispose round the bottom and sides a bold decoration, formed with black truf- fles and red tongue; after which carefully fill up the interior of the mould with some very delicate que- nelle force-meat, prepared from the fillets of three partridges. About an hour before dinner-time, the \ = chartreuse must be put on to steam, oy Mss as in the foregoing case; when — Sea done, turn it out on to its dish; fill the centre with a ragout of scol- lops of fillets of partridges, with the addition of some prepared truffles, cocks’-combs, and kernels in a rich Madeira sauce (No. 8); glaze the chartreuse, and serve. AQAA Si! 4, Ry AA AAAPM FS fe oy AACS SEN 792. CHARTREUSE, A LA CARDINAL, First, trim the fillets of three pairs of soles, and contisés them with scollops of the outside part of lobster-tails. Prepare some lobster quenelle force-meat (No. 246), in which mix the fillets of two whit- ings. Then, butter the inside of a plain charlotte-mould, and dispose therein the prepared fillets of soles, as represented in the annexed illus- tration; next, line the bottom and sides of the chartreuse with some of the lobster force-meat, in the same way as directed for the chartreuse a la Parisiénne ; fill the cavity with a | Parisian ragout (No. 203), the sauce of which must be kept stiff, and used cold for this purpose ; cover in the top with a layer of force-meat, and steam the chartreuse for one ) La > YAY Aun Qa Va! a D4.» | ‘ | BREAD CROUSTADES. 943 hour and a half; when done, place it upside down on its dish, ana draw the mould off carefully, in order to avoid disturbing the fillets. Garnish the edges of the chartreuse with a close border of small round truffles, and in the centre arrange a neatly-formed group of trimmed crayfish-tails, previously warmed in a little glaze and lobster coral butter; pour some Parisian ragout (No. 203) round the base, and serve. ORNAMENTAL CROUSTADES OF BREAD, COMPRISING Ornamental Créustades. Créustade of Bread, with Scollops of Fat Créustades of Bread, garnished with Calves’ Livers, a ?’E'picuriénne. tails, d la Poulette. ‘ » With Quails, @ la Bour- ” », with Lambs’ brains, guignotte.. Ca in Matelotie Sauce. 793. ORNAMENTAL CROUSTADES, For a créustade of ordinary dimensions, a 4 lb. loaf of close bread should be procured two days before it is wanted for use, as it must be stale for this purpose. In order to prevent waste, the loaf should be baked in an oval, square, or round tin case, according to the intended form of the créustade ; and when this is required for a remove or flank dish, the loaf must be made of a proportionate size. When the crust has been pared off the loaf with a sharp knife, it must be carved in the form of a fluted or chased vase or cup, accord- ing to the following patterns : WV \ * \\ t) 244 BREAD CROUSTADES. % The créustade thus carved, must next be fried of a light fawn colour, in some clean hog’s-lard, made quite hot for the purpose, the inside crumb rarefully taken out, and the cavity smoothly covered with a thin coating of quenelle force-meat: the object of which is to prevent the escape or absorption of the sauce from the entrée, afterwards placed in it: when this is done, the créustade must be put in the oven for five minutes, to bake the quenelle force-meat, and to be kept hot until served. 794. GROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH CALVES-TAILS, A LA POULETTE. ScaxLp two calves’-tails with the skin on, in the same way as calves’- heads; cut these up in joints, parboil them in water for five minutes, and then immerse them in cold water; after which drain them on a napkin, trim and place them in a stewpan with some blanc (No. 235), or failing this, with a carrot, an onion, garnished faggot of parsley, four cloves, a blade of mace, and twelve peppercorns; moisten with three pints of broth, or water, in which latter case add some salt; and set them to boil gently for about an hour by the side of the stove-fire. When the tails are done, drain them on a napkin, trim them neatly, and place them in the créustade in pyramidal form, pour over them a rich sauce d la poulette, containing two dozen button-mushrooms ; garnish the inner edge of the crdustade with a border of fluted scollops of red tongue, glaze a large black truffle, place it on the top, and serve. 795. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITI LAMBS’ BRAINS, IN MATELOTTE SAUCE. THE brains must be prepared as directed in No. 786, and when they are done, put to drain upon a napkin, preparatory to their being | cut into scollops, and afterwards placed in circular order in the créus- tade. Pour a matelotte sauce (No. 31), made in this case of white wine with a little cayenne and lemon-juice, and containing some small button-onions, previously simmered in butter, 3 oz. of truffles cut in scollops, a dozen small quenelles, a few mushrooms and trimmed cray- fish-tails; crown the top with six large crayfish, between which place a fried crouton of bread, cut in the shape of a leaf; in the centre of these, put a large trufile, and serve. 796, CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS OF FAT LIVERS, A L’EPICURIENNE. Wien about to send the créustade to table, garnish it with a ragoué of fat livers, prepared as follows :— Wrap two Strasbourg livers in thin layers of fat bacon, and simmer them very gently in a wine mirepoix (No. 286) for half an hour; then remove the stewpan from the fire, and allow the livers to cool in their liquor; they must now be taken out, cut into scollops without waste, and placed in a small deep sautapan, containing 4 oz. of black Perigord truffles cnt into scollops, a dozen stnall quenelles of game, and a few button-mushrooms; to these add about half the mirepoix, freed from every particle of grease, and set the whole to boil briskly over the fire until the moisture be reduced to a glaze ; next, pour in some ~ TURBANS AND MAZARINES, | 945 brown fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), in sufficient quantity for the entrée, toss the whole together over the fire, and use this rageut as directed above. A border of large double white cocks’-combs may be placed round the edge of the créustade, and a fine large Perigord truffle in the centre. 797. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH QUAILS AU GRATIN, _ A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Ler a créustade be cut in the form of a cup, not more than five inches high, the carving of which must present eight bold fluted scollops at the upper part, and be brought to a tapering point towards the foot, as represented in one of the foregoing illustrations. "When the créustade has been fried, the inner crumb must be removed, and the cavities lined with a well-seasoned farce of fat livers (No. 249), pre- viously prepared for the purpose, leaving sufficient room for the insertion, in each of the scolloped flutes, of a quail that has been boned and filled with some of the farce, then trussed and partially braized ; saese must then be neatly garnished round with some of the farce, covered over with thin layers of fat bacon, and a thick band of buttered paper, secured with string, round the créustade, to prevent it from acquiring more colour while in the oven. About an hour before dinner- time, set the créustade in a moderately-heated oven, to be baked. Just before sending it to table, remove the paper and bacon, absorb all the grease with the corner of a clean napkin, and place it carefully on its dish. On the breast of each quail place a very small fillet of fowl of circular form, contisés or decorated with black truffle, and then sim- mered in a buttered sautapan, covered with thin layers of bacon, to keep them white; between each quail place a large white cock’s-comb, fill the centre with a Bourguignotte ragout (No. 195), finished with the addition of some extract made from the carcasses of the quails, reduced to glaze, and serve. Note.—Ornamental créustades of bread may also be garnished with puree of fowls a la Reine, ditto of game d la Polonaise, &c.; and with almost every kind of ragout or garnish directed to be used for patés- chauds, vol’au’vents, borders of rice and potato-paste, for which see those articles. TURBANS AND MAZARINES, COMPRISING Turban of Ox-palates, d ta Périgoun. Turban of Fillets of Hares, d la Conis. » Fillets of Fowls, a la Prince Am Fiilets of Soles, ad Ja Ximenes. de Galles. Mazarine of Whitings, d la Venitiénne. Fillets of Rabbits, a la Finan- se Fat Livers, a la Toulouse. ciere. 798, TURBAN OF OX-PALATES, A LA PERIGUEUX. Braize eight ox-palates, and when done place them between two dishes, to press them flat; prepare about 2 Ibs, of gratin force-meat 246 TURBANS AND MAZARINES. ' 7 (No. 249) ; decorate or contisés twelve minion fillets of fowls, and cover them with thin layers of bacon till wanted. , Next, roll out about 4 oz. of firm common paste, to the size of a dessert-plate, and bake it in a slack oven; this is to serve for a foun- dation to raise the entrée upon. Next, trim the ox-palates, split each in two with a sharp knife, in the same way as thin layers of bacon are cut; trim eight of these, spread the rough side with a thin layer of the gratin force-meat, then roll them up; put the piece of paste before alluded to onaround baking-sheet; spread it with a layer of the force- meat, a quarter of an inch thick, and after having trimmed the rolled ox-palates, to make them fit in with each other in cir- cular order, place them firmly together on the foundation of paste prepared to receive them, taking care to put a little foreemeat between each, to fill up the fissures, and unite them; upon each fissure, one of the decorated fillets must be neatly laid, and turned under to secure it. The remaining eight ieces of ox-palates must then be trimmed, garnished with force-meat ike the former, and afterwards cut to the size of two-thirds of the ' others, and with these smaller rolls of ox-palates, a second tier must be formed upon the first, in similar fashion, and upon each joining, a decorated fillet is to be placed likewise. Any roughness cue, by the force-meat must be neatly smoothed over with a knife, dipped in water; a thick carrot, or piece of bread, cut in the shape of a pillar, and covered with fat bacon, should be placed in the centre of the entrée, to support its shape while being baked. . The whole of the turban must be covered in with thin layers of fat bacon, and these must be secured on by means of a thick band of buttered paper, cut in slits round the base (to enable it to fit closer), and secured round the entrée with string: this will serve also to keep the turban in shape. One hour and a half before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be baked; when done, remove the paper, &c., and with the end of a large skimmer, place the turban on its dish, fill the centre with a ragout of small truffles, pour some Périgueux sauce (No. 28) round the. base of the entrée, lightly glaze the palates, without touching the fillets—which must be kept as white as possible—and serve. 799. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA PRINCE DE GALLES. PREPARE some quenelle force-meat of fowls (No. 242) or veal; and with part of it fill a plain cylindrical mould, measuring about four inches high and six in diameter, previously buttered inside. This must be steamed in a covered stewpan, with a little water im it; and when done, turned out of the mould upon a plate, and allowed to cool; 1 should then be placed upon a foundation of baked paste, the angles of the quenelle rounded, and the whole of it covered with a thin eoating of force-meat: upon this turban of quenelle, six larded fillets of fowls should be placed with the point made to turn over the top ; “TURBANS AND MAZARINES, 247 between each of these, insert a decorated minion fillet; cover the latter with thin layers of fat bacon, 7 and secure the entrée round with a band of buttered paper made fast with string. Three quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be baked; when it is done, remove the paper and the bacon from the small fillets, glaze the larded fillets brightly, garnish the well of the entrée with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), pour some of the same round the base, and serve. 800. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF RABBITS, A LA FINANCIERE. Taxes out the fillets from four rabbits, trim and lard them closely. With the flesh of the legs, prepare some quenelle force-meat, and’ use part of this to make a cylindrical foundation, as in the foregoing case ; when cold trim the top of this round, and after it has been spread with a thin coating of the force-meat, lay the larded fillets round its sides in a slanting position, with the small end of each turned over at the top, and made to reach about an inch down the cylinder ; between each fillet of rabbit, a elosely-studded row of cock’s-kernels must be deeply inserted in the coating of quenelle force-meat, and these should be covered with thin strips of fat bacon to keep them white. A buttered band of paper must be placed round the turban, and secured with string. An hour before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be baked; when it is done, remove the paper, glaze the larded fillets, and afterwards pick the bacon off the kernels without dis- turbing them; fill the centre of the entrée with a Financiere ragout (No. 188), pour some round the base, and serve. 801. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF HARES, A LA CONTI. Take out the fillets of three young hares, and by splitting each fillet into halves, lengthwise, of equal thickness, twelve fillets will be obtained; these must then be neatly trimmed and contisés from one end to the other with scollops of black truffles. Use the flesh of the legs to prepare some quenelle force-meat; and, as in the foregoing eases, a foundation must be made with part of this, to raise the tur- ban upon it. When the cylinder of force-meat has been poached or steamed, and is cold enough, place it upon the foundation of paste, trim the top round, and spread it over with a coating of force-meat ; lay the decorated fillets of hare slantingly round the sides with their tapering points secured inside the cylinder with a little force-meat, -and cover the turban with thin layers of fat bacon, secured round with a band of paper in the usual way. An hour before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be baked, and when it is done, remove the paper and bacon, dish it up, fill the centre with scollops of black truffles and white mushrooms, pour some brown Italian sauce (No, 12) over and round the entrée, and serve. Note.—The two foregoing entrées may be varied in their appearance, 248 TURBANS AND MAZARINES. by larding one-half of the fillets, and decorating the remainder witha truffles or red tongue. 802. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA XIMENES. Tri the fillets of four middle-sized soles, contisés half with red tongue, and the remainder with thin scollops of green Indian gher- kins; prepare some quenelle force-meat with four whitings, with part of which make a cylindrical foundation in the manner described for the fillets of fowls dla Prince de Galles. Spread a coating of force- meat over this, and then place the fillets of soles round it in a slanting ih position, alternating those decorated fl Wh A sth tongue mame the fea He Z nye HTN Se ets must be neat ed under ae UI the base, and Be ce fastened in- LET side the cylinder with the point of Se a knife and a little force-meat. j Cover the turban with thin layers J of fat bacon, and fasten a band of Te e = buttered paper round it with string. e ©&z SLL Lp An hour before dinner-time, put Sa EF the turban in the oven to be baked ; when it is done, remove the paper and bacon, place the turban carefully on its dish, garnish the centre with a ragout of muscles (No. 197), pour some Tomata sauce (No. 22) round the base, and serve. 803. MAZARINE OF WHITINGS, A LA VENITIENNE. PREPARE some quenelle force-meat with the fillets of five whitings, and mix therewith a large gravy- spoonful of purée of mushrooms (No. 122), some chopped parsley, two ounces of black truffles also chopped, and two whisked whites of eggs. Next, butter a plain round mould, line the inside with white paper, and then fill it with the force-meat. An hour before dinner-time, steam the mazarine in the usual way, and when done, turn it out of the mould on its dish; place a border of contisés fillets of whitings round the top, fill the centre with a ragout of crayfish-tails and muscles, pour some Venetian sauce (No. 26), round the sides of the mazarine, and serve. 804, MAZARINE OF FAT LIVERS, A LA TOULOUSE. ProcvzeE two fine Strasbourg fat livers, cut therefrom twelve flat scollops in the form of flat fingers, and with the trimmings make some force-meat (No. 249). Next line a plain round mould with buttered white paper, and then fill it with the prepared ingredients thus: Spread a layer of force-meat half an inch thick at the bottom of the “ se. . eC AEs) + ee 7 oe ENTREES OF BEEF. ~ GAY mould, then line the sides in a similar manner ; place the scollops of fat livers in a perpendicular position, fill up the interstices with scollops of French truffles and the remainder of the force-meat, and cover the top with buttered paper. An hour and a half before dinner- time, steam the mazarine in a deep stewpan with a little water, and cover it with its lid containing live embers of charcoal. Care must be taken to prevent the water from boiling over into the mould. When _ the mazarine is done, turn it out of the mould on its dish, place a © border of minion fillets of fowls decorated with truffles, curled round in rings, and simmered in butter, fill the centre with a rich Toulouse ragout (No. 187), pour some Madeira sauce (No. 8) over the entrée, and serve. ENTREES OF BEEF, COMPRISING Plain Rump Steak. Minced Beef, a la Portuguaise. Beef Steak, a la Frangaise. Hashed Beef, plain. os with Anchovy-butter. Hashed Beef, and broiled Bones. Fillets of Beef in their own glaze, &c. Braized Beef, ad Ja Claremont. Minced Beef, with Poached Eggs. Bubble and Squeak. 805. PLAIN RUMP STEAK, THE steak should be cut rather thick, neatly trimmed, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, and broiled over a clear fire; when done, remove it carefully from the gridiron, in order to preserve the gravy which collects on ‘ts upper surfaco. Place the steak on its dish, rub a small pat of fresh butter over it, garnish round with grated horse- radish, and send some beef gravy separately in a sauce-boat. pi- cures, however, prefer the gravy which runs out of a juicy steak when well broiled to any other addition. Smail ribs of beef, and especially steaks cut from between the small ribs, form an excellent substitute for rump-steaks ; both, when nicely broiled, may be served with cold Maitre d’ Hotel butter, anchovy ditto; and also with the following sauces: Brown oyster, muscles, Italian, Piquante, Poor-man’s, Poivrade, Tomata, Provengale, Fine-herbs, &e.; for making which, see Special Sauces. 806. BEEFSTEAK, A LA FRANCAISE. _ Cur one pound of trimmed fillet of beef across the grain of the meat into three pieces; flatten these with the cutlet-bat, and trim them of a round or oval form; then cut and trim three pieces of suet, half the size of the former: dip the steaks in a little clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and place them on the gridiron over a clear fire to broil; when done, glaze them on both sides, dish them up on two ounces of cold Maitre a’ Hotel butter (No. 44), garnish round with fried potatoes, and serve. These potatoes must be cut or turned in the form of olives, and fried in a little clarified butter. ‘ : . " 950 © ENTREES OF BEEF. . 807. BEEFSTEAKS WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER. 'TuEsE are prepared in the same way as the foregoing, but anchovy butter inust be substituted for Maitre d’ Hotel. Note.—French beef-steaks are always cut from the fillet, and may be served with any of the savoury butters described in this work; they may also be garnished with Indian pickle, water-cresses, turned olives, and with all the varieties of common pickles, or with either of the sauces named for small rib-steaks. 808. FILLETS, OR SCOLLOPS, OF BEEF IN THEIR GLAZE Curt one-pound of trimmed fillet of beef into four pieces, flatten and trim these round or oval, season with pepper and salt, put them with alike number of smaller pieces of beef-suet in a sautapan con- taining two ounces of clarified butter. Ten minutes before sending them to table, set the sautapan on a brisk stove-fire, and fry the fillets of a brown colour ; when they are done on both sides, pour off the grease, add a table-spoonful of glaze and twice as much brown sauce, twenty mushrooms, with some of their liquor, and the juice of half a lemon; allow the whole to boil for one minute on the fire, dish the fillets with a piece of fat on each, place the mushrooms in the centre, and pour the sauce over all. Note.—Fillets of beef prepared in this manner may be dressed with either oysters, muscles, olives, truffles, gherkins cut into scollops, fried onions, fine-herbs, morels, &c., added to the sauce after they have been fried, instead of the mushrooms, as in the foregoing case. They may also be served when finished, with the addition of a piece of glaze and enough brown sauce for the entrée, with every kind of purée of vegetables and vegetable garnish described in this work ; as also with any of the sauces recommended to be served with broiled steaks. In all cases, the garnish of these entrées must be placed in the centre of the fillets, in a conical form, and the sauce poured round the fillets. 809 MINCED BEEF WITH POACHED EGGS. Pax the fat and skin off one pound of roast beef, cut it into thin small slices, and then mince these very fine by chopping them. Put the mince into a stewpan with two large gravy-spoonfuls of brown sauce, and a small piece of glaze, stir the whole over the fire until uitehot, dish it up in a conical form, place six poached eggs round the mince, pour a little brown sauce round the base, and serve. For those who like high seasoning, some grated nutmeg, lemon- peel, and Cayenne pepper may be added to the mince. $10. MINCED BEEF, A LA PORTUGUAISE. TRIM one pound of roast or braized beef, cut it up in pieces the size of a finger, and then with a sharp knife mince these into small shavings, and put them into a stewpan. Next, put two glasses of port wine into a stewpan with one chopped shalot, the rind of an orange cut into small shreds, a little grated nutmeg, Cayenne pepper, ENTREES OF BEEF. -26t and the juice of half a lemon; boil these ingredients down to one- third of their original quantity, add enough Lspaynole sauce for the entrée, and mix the preparation with the minced beef; dish this up in a conical form, shake some light-coloured raspings of bread-crust over 16; place a border round the base, consisting of six poached eggs, the same number of oval scollops of red tongue, and oval créutons fried in butter of a light colour and glazed. Pour some of the sauce reserved for the purpose round the base, and serve. 811. HASHED BEEF, PLAIN. Suicz the beef up in very thin pieces, season with pepper and salt, and shake a little flour over it. Next, chop a middle-sized onion, and put it into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of Harvey sauce, and an equal quantity of mushroom-catsup; boil these together for two minutes, and then add half a pint of broth or gravy ; boil this down to half its quantity, throw in the beef, set the hash to boil on the stove- fire for five minutes longer, and then serve with sippets of toasted bread round it when dished up. 812. HASHED BEEF AND BROILED BONES. Sticz the beef up as in the foregoing case, and set it aside on a piate. Cut the bones into pieces about two inches long or square, having a little meat left on them; score them all over by making deep incisions across them, season with plenty of pepper, and a little salt, and put them on a plate. Slice two onions and fry them brown, then add enough brown sauce for the hash, or if there be none ready, shake a table-spoonful of flour over the onions, stir this over the fire for a minute, then add half a pint of good broth or gravy and a table- spoonful of mushroom-catsup; stir the whole on the fire until reduced to two-thirds of the original quantity, and then rub it through a tammy into a purée; mix this with the sliced beef, make the hash quite hot, dish it up with the broiled bones (glazed) round it, and serve. 813. SLICES OF BRAIZED BEEF, A LA CLAREMONT. Tus entrée with its undermentioned varieties may be served, when it happens that any braized beef remains from a previous day’s dinner. The beef must be cut m rather thin round, or oval slices, placed in a sautapan in neat order, and warmed with a gravy-spoonful of good stock; these must then be dished up in a circle—overlapping each other closely—pour some Claremont sauce (No. 58) over them, and serve. Note.—Slices of braized beef warmed and dished up, as in the fore- going case, may be greatly varied by being afterwards garnished with macaroni prepared with grated cheese, a little glaze and tomata sauce, also with all sharp sauces, with purées of vegetables, and with vege- table garnishes, | 814. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. Cur some slices (not too thin) of cold boiled round, or edge-bone, of salt beef; trim them neatly, as also an equal number of pieces of the white fat of the beef, and set them aside on a plate. Boil two 952 ENTREES OF OX-CHEEKS, summer or savoy cabbages, remove the stalks, chop them fine, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter and one ounce of glaze; season with pepper and salt. When about to send to table, fry the slices of beef in a sauta or frying pan, commencing with the pieces of fat; stir the cabbage on the fire until quite hot, and then pile it up in the centre of the dish; place the slices of beef and the pieces of fat round it, pour a little thin brown sauce over the whole, and serve. ENTREES OF OX-CHEEKS, COMPRISING Braized Ox-cheeks, with Purée of Green _ Braized Ox-cheeks, a la Provengale. Peas. 2. 4 with stewed Cabbage. ad la Flamande. rf AS a la Jardiniére. a la Brétonne. 29 29 29 29 815. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, WITH PUREE OF GREEN-PEAS. Bowe an ox-cheek, and steep it in cold water for two hours ; then par- boil it in water for five minutes, immerse it in cold water, drain, and trim it, break up the bones, and put them at the bottom of an oval stewpan, place the cheek upon them, and garnish with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, and twelve pepper-corns ; moisten with two quarts of broth or water (af the latter, add some salt) ; set the ox-cheek to braize very gently by the side of a stove-fire for about two hours; when done, take it up carefully, and put it in press between two dishes. Half the broth may be used for preparing some brown sauce with, and the remainder boiled down to a half glaze. Next, cut the ox-cheek up into twelve pieces of equal size, shape them, either round, square, oblong, or oval; trim them neatly ; and place them in a sautapan with the half-glaze. Ten minutes before sending to table, put the ox-cheeks, covered with the lid, to simmer gently on the stove-fire until they are warmed through, and then set them to boil quickly over a brisk fire for three minutes ; roll them in their glaze, and afterwards dish them up in acircle, closely overlapping each other; fill the centre of the entrée with some thick purée of green peas (No 136), pour a little brown sauce round the base, and serve. 816. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA FLAMANDE. Tus is prepared, cut and dished up as the foregoing. Between each scollop of ox-cheek insert a piece of carrot previously boiled in broth and rolled in its own glaze; fill the centre with a garnish of Brussels-sprouts, round which place a neat border of prepared turnips cut in fancy shapes; pour a little thin Hspagnole sauce round the entrée, and serve. 817. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA BRETONNE. Prepare and dish up the pieces of ox-cheek as directed in the first case ; and just before sendi:x to table, fill the centre with some purée of potatoes (No. 116), pour some Brétonne sauce (No. 27) over the pieces of ox-cheek, and serve. OX-PALATES. 253 318.. BRAIZED OX-CBEEK, A LA PROVENCALE. Tuts when dished up must be garnished round the base with a border of ripe tomatas prepared au gratin (No. 1160); fill the centre of the entrée with some Provengale sauce (No. 25), and serve. 819. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, WITH STEWED CABBAGES. WueEn the ox-cheek is prepared for braizing, as directed in No. 815, about one pound of German sausage must be added, also half a pound of streaky bacon, and two savoy-cabbages, previously cut in halves, parboiled in water, the stalks removed, and afterwards tied up with string. The whole must be covered with around buttered paper, and set to braize gently for about two hours; as soon as it is done, the ox-cheek should be put in press, and when cold cut into scollops and placed in a sautapan with some half glaze; the bacon and sausage must be also cut in neat scollops and kept hot in a sautapan with a little half glaze. The cabbage must first be drained in a colander, and then pressed in a napkin, and afterwards cut out in cork-shaped pieces. The scollops of ox-cheek should be dished up in a close circle, alternately placing a sccllop of ox-cheek with the bacon and sausage : and so on, until the whole is used up. Next, place the cabbage round the base in a neat border, and upon each piece of cabbage set a ring of carrot, with a piece of turnip cut in the form of a very small pear, in its centre ; fill the well of the entrée with a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut in very small fancy shapes, pour some Lspagnole sauce round the base, and serve. The carrots and turnips, above alluded to, must, of course, be boiled in broth, with a little sugar, and afterwards boiled down in their elaze. 820. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA JARDINIERE. Bratze, cut up, and dish the ox-cheek as directed in the first article ; then fill the centre of the entrée with a garnish of vegetables d la Jardiniere (No. 144), pour some half glaze or thin Mspagnole sauce round the base, and serve. DRESSED OX-PALATES, COMPRISING Canelons of Ox-palates, with Poitvrade Curry of Ox-palates. sauce, Ox-palates in cases, with fine-herbs, Paupiéttes of Ox-palates, a la Financiere. Attereaux of Ox-palates, a la D’ Uxelles, Ox-palates, d la Tortué. ; 821. CANELONS OF OX-PALATES, WITH POIVRADE SAUCK. Cieanst and braize six ox-palates, and put them in press, as di- rected in No. 209, between two dishes until they are cold. The ox-pa- lates must then be trimmed and split in halves, lengthwise ; each of these must be again divided across in two, crosswise ; the twenty-four pieces thus produced should be laid upon a large dish, and covered on one side only with some thick cold d’ Uzelles sauce (No. 16). The canelons must then be rolled up in the form of a cartridge, and each first dipped in beaten egg (seasoned with a little salt) and afterwards bread-crumbed. 254 ENTREES Of BEEF. Just before sending to table, the canelons should be fried in some clean hog’s-lard, made quite hot for the purpose ; they must be piled up in the dish, in a pyramidal form, with green fried parsley in the centre, round the base, and on the top. Send some Poivrade sauce (No. 29) 1p a boat. Note.—Instead of bread-crumbing the canelons, if preferred they may be dipped in a lght-made batter, and then fried. 822. PAUPIETTES OF OX-PALATES, A LA FINANCIERE, Braize and cut up the ox-palates as in the foregoing case ; then trim the twenty-four pieces thus produced into oblong scollops, measuring about two inches by three and a half; lay these on an earthen dish, and spread upon each a thin layer of quenelle force-meat of veal or poultry, in which some fine-herbs have been mixed. The ox-palates should then be rolled firmly in the form of cartridges, and: six of these, disposed lengthwise in a buttered sheet of writing paper, must be rolled up tightly in it, and placed in a deep sautapan : the remainder are to be finished in the same manner, and kept in the cool until wanted. Half an hour before dinner-time set the paupiettes on a stove-fire, at the same time adding to them about a quart of boiling broth or consommé ; as soon as they begin to boil, put the lid on,and set them to simmer gently by the side of the stove-fire for twenty minutes. The paupieties must be drained on a napkin, the ends of each neatly cut off, then placed in a sautapan with a little half glaze, and again set on the fire to be rolled im this as it boils down ; after, they should be dished up in a pyramidal, or a conical form, and a Financiére ragout (No. 188) poured over the entrée, and sent to table. 823. OX-PALATES, A LA TORTUE. Braize the ox-palates as before directed, put them in press, and when cold, stamp them out in scollops, with a circular tin cutter two imches in diameter, and put them in a small deep sautapan with a little of the sauce intended for the entrée. ‘Twenty minutes before sending to table, make the scollops quite hot, and place them in neat order in, and round, the base of an ornamental créustade of fried bread, previously prepared for the purpose, and made fast on the centre of the dish, with a little paste made of flour and white of ege ; dispose the ragout ad la tortué, omitting the pieces of calf’s-head (No. 189), tastefully about the entrée, and serve. 824. CURRY OF OX-PALATES. PrEpaRE the scollops of ox-palates, asin the foregoing case, and put them in a good curry-sauce (No 47). Just before sending to table make the curry quite hot, and dish it up with boiled rice pressed into a border-mould, and then turned out on its dish. | The above is the simplest manner of serving this entrée, but it looks much better when dressed with an ornamental rice border, in which case some plain boiled Patna rice must be served separately. 825. ATTEREAUX OF OX-PALATES, A LA D UXELLES. _BratzeE four ox-palates ; when done put them in press between two dishes; a8 scon as they are cold, trim both sides, cut them intoinch- LOX=Pprrvis.. oe 255 Square scollops, and place these on a large earthen dish, together with about half their quantity of square pieces of truffles and mush- rooms; pour some iediced D? Uzelles sauce (No. 16) over the whole, and when the sauce has become set, run the scollops upon twelve small silver skewers, intermixing the truffles and mushrooms alter- nately with the ox-palates; gather the sauce from the dish with a knife, and spread it upon the atiereaux to give them a square, smooth form. They must then be rolled in bread-crumbs, afterwards dipped in beaten eggs, and again bread-crumbed. Half an hour before send- ing to table, fry the attereaux in clean hog’s-lard, made hot for the purpose ; dish them up neatly with parsley, fried green and crisp, placed in the centre, and serve. . 826. OX-PALATES IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS. Prepare the ox-palates in small circular scollops, and put them into a stewpan containing about two-thirds of their quantity of scollops of truffles and mushrooms; to these add sufficient reduced fine-herbs sauce (No. 14) for the enérée, mix the whole, and with this fill twelve small square, or plaited circular paper cases, previously oiled and baked in the oven for five minutes ; cover them with a layer of rasp- ings of bread, or bread-crumbs fried of a light colour, and place them upon a baking-sheet covered with clean paper. About half an hour before sending to table, put these cases in the oven to be baked, or rather warmed through, and then dish them up on a folded napkin, with fried parsley round the base of the entrée, and serve. OX-PITHS, COMPRISING Ox-piths, d la Ravigotte. Créustades of Ox-piths. o in cases, with fine-herbs. $27, OX-PITHS,* A LA RAVIGOTTE. Procure about 1 lb. of ox-piths, steep them in water for a coupe of hours, wash them thoroughly, and then carefully remove the mem- branous covering, and change the water. Next, slice up an onion and a small carrot very thin, and put these into a stewpan with a quart of hot water, mignionette pepper, and salt, a little thyme and bay-leaf, three cloves and a blade of mace, and half a gill of vinegar; set these to boil on the fire, drop in the ox-piths and allow them to boil gently for ten minutes; then set them aside to cool. Drain them on a napkin, and cut them in three-inch lengths, then place them in a basin, with a few sprigs of parsley, three sliced shalots, some mignionette pepper, and salt, three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and one of vinegar. The ox-piths must be left to steep in this pickle till within about ten minutes of dinner-time, when they must be drained upon a napkin, then dipped separately in some light batter, and fried in clean hog’s-lard made quite hot for the purpose. Dish them up * The pith consists of the spinal marrow, which is more generally taken from sides of beef; that taken from veal and mutton is also occasionally used. 256 ENTREES OF BEEF. * i with fried parsley, and send some Ravigotie sauce in a boat, to be handed round. To save trouble, the piths when fried, may be dished up without a napkin or fried parsley, and the sauce poured under them. But in this case, unless they are eaten as soon as dished up, the vapour arising from the sauce destroys much of their crispness. Note.—Ox-piths when fried according to the foregoing directions, may also be served with any of the following sauces, viz. :—Piquantz, Powrade, Italian, Tomata, &c. 828. OX-PITHS IN CASES, WITH FINE HERBS, Prepare these, in the first instance, according to the directions con- tained in the foregoing article. They must then be dramed upon a napkin, cut into inch-lengths, and placed in a small stewpan, with sufficient d’ Umelles sauce (No. 16) for the entrée ; they should then be gently mixed together, and put into about a dozen small square or round paper cases, the surfaces of which are to be strewn with raspings, or fried bread-crumbs, and then placed upon a clean baking-sheet. About twenty minutes before sending to table, put the cases in the oven to get thoroughly warmed; dish them up neatly in a pyramidal form, and serve some fine herbs, or brown Italian sauce, separately in a boat. 829. CROUSTADES, OR PATTIES OF OX-PITHS. In this case, the ox-piths must be prepared according to the first part of the directions for dressing them d la Ravigotie ; they must then be cut into half-inch lengths, and placed in a small stewpan, with about half their quantity of prepared mushrooms, and two artichoke bottoms, previously cut into small dice; to this may be added some finished Espagnole sauce (No. 3), a little cayenne and lemon-juice; warm the whole together on the stove-fire, and garnish the créustades, or patties, with it. OX-TONGUES, COMPRISING Ox-tongues, with Spinach. Ox-tongues, @ la Jardiniere. . ~with Brussels-sprouts, ‘5 a ? Allemande, ad la Macédoine. Ga with Sauér-Kraut. 830. OX-TONGUE, WITH SPINACH. Procurz a pickled tongue, run an iron skewer through it from the root to the pointed end, tie a piece of string on one end of the skewer, and fasten it at the other, so as to keep it in shape. The tongue should then be put on the fire in cold water, and kept gently boiling for about three hours, when it must be taken up, and after removing the outer cuticle, should be placed in the larder to cool; it should then be neatly trimmed, wrapped in a piece of buttered paper, and put into an oval stewpan, with a ttle common broth. Three quar- OX-TONGUE. : Zot _ ters of an hour before sending it to table, put the tongue in the oven, or on a slow fire, to get warmed through; then glaze it, and dish it up with some prepared spinach (No. 112) round it, pour a little Espagnole sauce, or some half glaze round the base, and serve. 831. OX-TONGUE, WITH BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. THIS is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, except that Brussels sprouts (No. 1192), must be substituted for spmach. 832. OX-TONGUE, A LA MACEDOINE, PrEpaneE the tongue as in the foregoing cases, and when about tu send to table, glaze and dish it up with a white Macédoine of vegetables (No. 143) placed neatly round it, and serve. 833. OX-TONGUE, A LA JARDINIERE, THE tongue, when dished up, must be garnished round with groups of glazed carrots and turnips, cut in small fancy shapes, and boiled in broth, with a pmch of sugar and a little salt, previously to their being boiled down in their own glaze; these must be alternated with similar groups of flowerets of cauliflowers, heads of asparagus-peas, or French-beans cut in the form of diamonds and boiled green. Pour some half glaze or Hspagnoie sauce round the base, and send to table. $34, BRAIZED-OX TONGUE, A L’ ALLEMANDE. Scaup a fresh ox-tongue in boiling water upon the fire for about ten minutes; then immerse it in cold water, remove the root and any superfluous fat. Next, place the tongue in an oval stewpan with a carrot, an onion, one head of celery, a garnished faggot, four cloves, and a blade of mace; add a glass of brandy and sufficient good broth or stock to cover the whole, and setit to braize gently for two hours and a half upon a slow fire. When the tongue is done, take it out of the braize, trim and put it into a stewpan with its own liquor, previously divested of all the grease, strained through a sieve, and boiled down to half its quantity. About half an hour before sending to table, set the tongue on a very slow fire to simmer until it is warmed through ; roll it im its glaze, dish it up with some cherry sauce d la Victoria (No. 64) under it, garnish it round with a border of potato quenelles (No. 312), and serve. $35. OX-TONGUE, WITH SAUER-KRAUT. For this purpose choose a smoked tongue, and let it soak in cold water for four-and-twenty hours previously to its being dressed. The tongue must now be parboiled for half an hour, and immersed in cold water; then remove the root, and truss it with a skewer and some string to keep it in shape; next, place it in an oval stewpan with one pound and a half of sauer-kraut (previously well washed in several waters), two carrots, two onions stuck with six cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with sufficient stockpot toppings to cover the whole; place a well-buttered paper on the top, and cover with a lid containing some live embers of charcoal; then set these to braizc very gently on a slow fire, for about three hours. When the tongue is done, take it up on a dish, trim it, and put it in a small oval stew- pan with a little good stock, to be kept hot by the side of the stove. | S yy 958 ENTREES OF MUTTON. 4 Meanwhile, remove the carrot, onion, and faggot of parsley from the sauer-kraut, and afterwards press it in a napkin to absorb all the grease. Then, glaze the tongue, and place it in its dish, garnish it neatly round with the saver-kraut and put a border of small turned carrots (previously boiled and glazed for the purpose) round the base ; pour some Potvrade sauce over the whole, and serve. Note.—Rein-deer tongues may be dressed in the same manner as the foregoing; they must, however, be soaked in cold water for four-and- twenty hours previously to their being dressed. ENTREES OF MUTTON, 1. Murron CUTLETS, SAUTEES, COMPRISING Mutton Cutlets, plain. Mutton Cutlets, with Purée of Endives, &c .; a la Minute, Ap a la Nivernaise, &c. “i a la Maintenon. =' with New Potatoes, &c. Bs a la Bourguignotte. 836. MUTTON CUTLETS, PLAIN. Cuoosr a neck of mutton that has been killed at least four days, saw off the scrag end, and as much of the rib-bones as may be neces- sary in order to leave the cutlet-bones not more than three inches and a half long; the spime-bones must also be removed with the saw, without damaging the fillet. Next, cut the neck of mutton thus trimmed into as many cutlets as there are bones; detach the meat from the upper part of each bone, about three-quarters of an inch, then dip them in water and flatten them with a cutlet-bat, trim away the sinewy part, and any superfluous fat. The cutlets must then be seasoned with pepper and salt, passed over with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, and nicely broiled, over or before a clear fire. When they are done, dish them up neatly, and serve with plain brown gravy under them. » Cutlets prepared in this way may also be served with either of the following sauces—Poor-man’s, Piquante, Italian, Tomata, Provengaie, Poivrade, Shalot, Gravy. 837. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MINUTE. ‘Trim the cutlets as above, then season with pepper and salt, and lace them in a sautapan with about two ounces of clarified butter. he cutlets must be fried over a rather brisk fire, of a brown colour ; then, pour off the grease, and add a large gravy-spoonful of Hspagnole sauce, a piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; set the cutlets again on the fire to simmer gently for two minutes, dish them up, and pour the sauce over them. The centre of this entrée may be filled with mashed potatoes, mashed turnips, spinach, potatoes a la Maitre d’ Hotei, &c. ENTREES OF MUTTON. : yas 5) al 838. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MAINTENON. THESE are prepared, in the first instance, according to the former part of the directions for cutlets d la Minute ; season with pepper and — salt, add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same quantity of 2 “neg and three shalots also chopped. Fry the cutlets brown on oth sides, pour off the grease, and add two large spoonfuls of brown sauce, a very little grated nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; allow the whole to simmer together on the fire for five minutes, and then set them in the larder to cool. Meanwhile, take as many sheets of large-sized note-paper as there are cutlets, cut each somewhat in the form of a heart, and then let them be oiled. Next, place a cutlet with an equal proportion of the sauce in one of these papers, and with the fore-finger and thumb of the right hand, twist the edges of the paper tightly under into very close folds: and repeat this with the remainder. A quarter of an hour before sending to table, put the cutlets in the oven in a sautapan, to get warm through: then with a heated iron skewer, mark the papers so as to make it appear that they have been broiled ; dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley in the centre, and send some brown Italian or fine-herbs sauce in a boat. 839. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Trim the cutlets and arrange them in circular order in a sautapan with a little clarified butter. Then, fry them quickly on a brisk fire to brown them on both sides, and before they are quite done, pour off all the grease; add half-a-pint of red wine (port or claret), about half-a-pottle of prepared mushrooms, and the same quantity of small | button-onions (previously summered in a little butter, over a slow fire until nearly done) ; season with a pinch of mignionette-pepper and a little salt, some grated nutmeg and a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar ; set the whole to boil on the stove for two minutes, and then add a small ladleful of brown sauce ; allow the cutlets (covered) to simmer very gently on a slow fire for twenty minutes, by which time they will be done, and the sauce sufficiently reduced. ‘The cutlets must then be dished up closely, in a circle ; add half-a-glass of red wine and a dozen small quenelles to the sauce, boil the whole together for a minute, and garnish the centre of the entrée with the mushrooms, &c., pour the sauce over the cutlets, and serve. 840. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF ENDIVES. THESE are prepared and finished in the same manner as the cutlets a la Minute; and when they are dished up, the centre of the entrée saust be filled with a puree of endives (No. 114). Note——Cutlets dressed in this way may be served with pureés of vegetables of all sorts. 841, MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA NIVERNAISE. Trim and prepare the cutlets as in the foregoing case, and when they have been fried brown, pour off the grease, and add a garnish of carrots and turnips d la Mivernaise (No. 137); allow the whole to simmer gently on a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, dish up the cutlets, and fill the centre with vegetables, pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve. 8 2 \ 260 ENTREES OF MUTTON. 842. ANOTHER METHOD. Tue cutlets, when fried, may be glazed, then dished up, and the garnish d la Névernaise placed in the centre. The advantage of. the first method is, that the cutlets partake of the flavour of the vegetables by simmering with them. 843, MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH NEW POTATOES. THESE are prepared in the same way as cutlets d la Minute, and when dished up, must be garnished with new potatoes a la Maitre d’ Hotel (No. 1188). Mutton cutlets prepared in the same manner may be garnished with any of the following vegetable garnishes, viz., Jardiniére, Macédoine, asparagus-peas, stewed peas, Brussels-sprouts, &c. 2. Murron CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED, COMPRISING Mutton Cutlets, Bread-crumbed and Broiled, Mutton Cutlets, Bread-crumbed, @ Ja Bré- with Shalot Gravy. tonne. ¥3 », with Purée of Mush- Ke », @ la Macédoine. rooms. ae 5, @ PIndiénne. es », with Cucumbers. ori », With Purée of Chestnuts, 4 » Gla Milanaise. 844. MUTTON CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED AND BROILED WITH SHALOT GRAVY. Trim the cutlets in the usual manner, and season them with pepper and salt; then egg them slightly over with a paste-brush dipped in two yolks of eggs, beaten up on a plate for the purpose; pass each cutlet through some fine bread-crumbs; then dip them separately in some clarified butter, and bread-crumb them over once more ; put them into shape with the blade of a knife, and lay them on a gridiron, to be broiled over a clear fire, of a light-brown colour; then, glaze and dish them up, and serve them with plain or shalot gravy. ‘These cutlets may also be served with any of the sauces directed to be used for plain broiled cutlets. | 845. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF MUSHROOMS. Brerap-crums the cutlets as in the foregomg case; then place them in a sautapan with a little clarified butter, fry them over a brisk fire, of a light colour, and when done, remove them on to a napkin or a sheet of paper, and glaze them; dish them up, fill the centre with a white purée of mushrooms (No. 122), pour some half glaze round the entrée, and serve. 846. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH CUCUMBERS. Prepare these in the same way as the foregoing, and garnish them, when dished up, with some scollops of cucumbers (No. 188). 847, MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MILANAISE. In this case, the bread-crumbs used for the cutlets must be mixed with 2 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese : in other respects they are ty MUTTON CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED. 261 be bread-crumbed as before. When about to send to table, the cutlets should be fried of a light colour, glazed, and dished up; and the centre garnished with some macaroni, finished with grated Parmesan cheese, and a spoonful of Béchamel, or any other white sauce; pour some Provengale sauce (No. 25) round the base of the entrée, and serve. 848. MUTTON CUTLETS, A ZA BRETONNE. THESE are prepared and finished in the same way as cutlets gar- nished with a purée of mushrooms, with this exception, that the centre must be filled with small potatoes previously cut or scooped in the form of olives, and fried in butter, of a yellow colour; pour some Brétonne sauce (No. 27) under the cutlets, and serve. 849. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MACEDOINE. PREPARE these in the same way as the foregomg, and when they are dished up, garnish the centre with a Macédoine of vegetables (No. 148) ; pour some half glaze round the base of the entrée, and serve. 850. MUTTON: CUTLETS, A L’INDIENNE. BrEap-crump, fry, glaze, and dish up the cutlets; then garnish the centre with two dozen small quenelles of anchovies (No. 246), the forcemeat of which must be mixed with a little strong curry sauce (No. 47); pour some mangoe sauce under the cutlets, and serve. e mangoe sauce here alluded to is thus made:—Split a fine mangoe, and let the inside be reserved in a small stewpan; then cut the outside part into narrow strips, and again mince these into shreds, or thin scollops, and place them in the stewpan; add a small ladleful of Espagnole sauce (No.3); boil the whole together for five minutes, when it will be fit for use. 851. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. TaEsE, when dished up as in the foregomg cases, should be gar- nished with a purée of chestnuts (No. 115), and some thin Espagnole poured round them, then serve. Note-—Bread-crumbed cutlets may be served with every sort of vegetable garnish described in this work, and with all the sauces directed to be served with plain cutlets. BRAIZED MUTTON CUTLETS, COMPRISING Nutton Cutlets, d Ja Soubise. Mutton Cutlets, d la Pompadcour, a a la Lyonnaise. 5 a la Provencale. 4 with Purée of Artichokes. ” a la Russe. 99 d la Chipolata. 852. MUTTON CUTLETS, BRAIZED, A LA SOUBISE. Trim one or two necks of mutton (according to the size of the entrée) in the way described for plain cutlets ; the neck must then be 962 ENTREES OF MUTTON. cut up into thick cutlets, and placed on a dish without being further trimmed. Next cut 1b. of fat bacon into narrow strips, about the sixth of an inch square, and an inch and a half long, and with these the cutlets should be Jarded in the following manner :—Take a middle- gized larding-pin, and run it half through the lean of the cutlet: then, - place a strip of bacon in the open end, and draw the larding-pin through, leaving the bacon in the cutlet: repeat this, until the cutlet _ has been studded with eigh! strips of bacon, and proceed in the same manner with the remainder. Stew some of the trimmings over the bottom of a large stewpan, or fricandeau pan, and place the cutlets upon them in circular order, with the bone-end poimting to the centre ; cover them with the remainder of the trimmings, and garnish with a couple of sliced carrots, a large onion, stuck with four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, and one head of celery; season with a dozen pepper- corns and a blade of mace, moisten with a glass of brandy, and sufficient fresh broth or stock to cover the whole; place a buttered paper on this, put on the lid, and set the cutlets to braize very gently on aslow fire, or in the oven, for about one hour anda half; when they are become nearly tender enough, draw the pan off the fire, and allow them to get partially cold in their own liquor. The cutlets must then be carefully taken out, one at a time, with a small slice or skimmer, and placed in rows on a large earthen dish: when the whole are thus removed, another dish must be placed upon these to press them slightly, in order to give them an even surface. As soon as they have become firm by getting quite cold, trim them neatly with a sharp knife, by paring off the surface of each cutlet (without waste), so as to show the bacon inserted in the lean; put them into a deep sautapan with some half glaze, made with the broth they have been braized in, which must be strained, divested. of all the grease, clarified, and afterwards boiled down for the purpose. A quarter of an hour before sending to table, put the cutlets ona brisk fire to warm, allow them to boil quickly for five minutes, then roll the sautapan about carefully, so as to glaze them all over, and dish them up in a close circle; fill the centre with some Soubise sauce, or purée (No. 119), pour the remainder of the half glaze round the base of the entrée, and serve. 853. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA LYONNAISE. Prepare, finish, and dish up the cutlets, as in the foregoing case ; then fill the centre with some Lyonnaise sauce (No. 24), and serve. 854. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, WITH PUREE OF ARTICHCKES. THESE are prepared exactly as for Soubise, and when dished up should be garnished with a purée of artichokes (No. 117); pour a little Béchamel sauce, or some half glaze round their base, and serve. 855. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA CHIPOLATA. _ Prepare and dish up these in the same manner as the foregoing, garnish them with a Chipolata ragout (No. 190), and serve. 856. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA POMPADOUR. These must be prepared, in the first instance, nearly in the same manner as the Soubise cutlets, except that, instead of the larding, they (No. 119); and when this has BRAIZED MUTTON CUTLETS, 963 must be studded with red tongue and black truffies; when the cut- lets, after being braized, have beer trimmed, mask each of them with a coating of reduced Soubise sauce become firmly set, by cooling on the cutlets, dip them separately in three whole eggs, seasoned with a little salt, and beaten up for the purpose, and afterwards bread- crumb them; flatten the bread-crumbs on smoothly with the blade of a knife, put the cutlets carefully away on a dish in a cool place until within twenty minutes of dinner-time. The cutlets must then be laced in rows, on the wire lining of a deep frying-pan; when the og’s-lard is sufficiently hot for the purpose, immerse the cutlets in it, and fry them of a deep yellow colour; then, drain them on a nap- kin, or a sheet of paper, in order to absorb all the grease, and dish them up in a close circle upon a vegetable border. Fill the centre with a Macédoine of vegetables (No. 143), pour some half glaze round the base, and serve. 857. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA PROVENQALE. BRaize and trim the cutlets as in the foregoing case; except that in the present instance the cutlets must be left plain, omitting alto- gether the larding or studding. While the cutlets are being braized, set about making the following preparation:—Cut three Portugal onions into very small dice, parboil these in water, drain them on a sieve, and then place them in a small stewpan, with loz. of fresh butter, the same quantity of glaze, a little mignionette pepper and salt, and some grated nutmeg; set the lid on the stewpan, and place the onions on a very slow fire, to be thoroughly stewed, without acquirmg any colour. Next, add a gravy-spoonful of white sauce, a little grated garlic on the point of a knife, and stir the whole on the fire until reduced to a paste; then add the yolks of three eggs and a little lemon-juice ; mix well together, and use this preparation to cover the surface of one side only of the cutlets; shake a rather-thick coating of bread- crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions, over this, and then place the cutlets in a sautapan containing a little half glaze. About twenty minutes before sending to table, put the cutlets in the oven to be warmed through, pass the red-hot salamander over them, to give them a deep yellow colour, mash them with thin glaze, and dish them up; then pour some Provengale sauce (No. 25) under them, and serve. 858. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA RUSSE. Cur twelve thick cutlets, as directed in the first article of this sec- tion; insert eight strips of lean ham through the lean part, in a circular forin; prepare them for brazing in the usual way, and in addition to the customary complement of vegetables and seasoning, add two cloves of garlic and a couple of capsicums; moisten with a int of Madeira and a quart of good stock; set the cutlets to braize for an hour and a half, ona very slow fire, and when nearly doue 264 ENTREES OF MUTTON, remove them from the fire, that they may partially cool in their own liquor; and then put them in press between two dishes, When the cutlets are cold, trim them neatly, and cover one side only with-a rather-thick coating of the followig preparation :—Clean two large sticks of horse-radish, and grate them ; put this into a small stewpan with a small pat of butter, two table-spoonfuls of French vinegar, a pinch of mignionette pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of sugar; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew very gently for twenty minutes on a very slow fire ; then add two gravy-spoonfuls of Velouté sauce, boil the whole well together for ten minutes, mix with this sauce the yolks of four eggs, and a small piece of glaze, and use this preparation as directed above. Next, mask the coated side of the cutlets with a paste-brush dipped in some white of egg that has been beaten up, and sprinkle this surface over with very fine bread-crumbs, previously fried of a light colour, with alittle butter: place the cutlets in neat order in a sautapan, with a little half glaze, and a quarter of an hour before sending to table, put them in the oven to be warmed through, without allowing them to acquire any more colour; dish them up with a very small paper ruffle on the bone of each cutlet, pour some half glaze (made with their own liquor, previously strained, divested of all grease, and after- wards boiled down) under them, and serve. Note.—Mutton cutlets, when braized according to any of the fore- going directions, may be served with all sorts of dressed vegetables, such as stewed peas, asparagus-peas, F'rench-beans, broad-beans, Macédoine of vegetables, Jardiniére, braized lettuces, &c., and also with all kinds of purées of vegetables: for making which, see those articles. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, COMPRISING Scollops of Mutton, with Fine-herbs. Scollops of Mutton, with Olives farctes. Py a la Claremont. 3 with Mushrooms and 7 with Oysters. Truffles. - a I’ Indiénne. 859, SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH FINE-HERBS. Bone a loin of mutton, and with a sharp knife pare off the sinewy skin which lies beneath the fat of the upper and under or minion fil- ‘ets. Next, cut these fillets into neatly-trimmed scollops, and place them in a circular order in a sautapan with two ounces of clarified butter; season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a brisk fire, until browned on both sides; then pour off the grease, and add suffi- cient fine-herbs sauce (No. 14) for the entrée; allow the whole to simmer together over the fire for three minutes, and then dish up the scollops, either in a pyramidal form, in a close circle, or else m an ornamental border of potato or rice. These scollops may also be garnished with « border of croguettes of mutton, mushrooms, potatoes, or rice. oy alee * ee a SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, 265 Note.—The garnishes here alluded to will serve for mutton scollops generally. 860. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, A LA CLAREMONT. PREPARE the scollops as in the foregoing case, fry them brown, pour off all the grease, and add enough Claremont sauce (No. 58), for the entrée, set the whole to simmer briskly on the fire for three minutes, and serve. S61. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH OYSTERS. THESE are prepared according to the foregoing directions, and when the grease has been poured off, add as much brown oyster sauce (No. 51) as will suffice for the entrée, simmer the whole together on the fire for three minutes, and serve. 862. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, A L’INDIENNE. PREPARE the scollops in the usual manner, fry them brown, pour off the grease, add then some curry sauce (No. 47) and a minced mangoe ; simmer the whole together on the fire for five minutes, and send to table with some plain boiled rice served separately. 863. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH OLIVES FARCIES.* THESE are prepared in the same way as the foregoing, and when they have been fried and the grease poured off, add two dozen olives Jarcies, two large gravy-spoonfuls of Lspagnole sauce (No. 3),:a little cayenne and lemon-juice, and a small piece of glaze; toss the whole together, allow the scollops to simmer briskly on the stove-fire for three minutes, and then serve. 864. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH MUSHROOMS AND TRUFFLES, Sautez or fry the scollops brown, then pour off the fat, and adda small glass of Madeira, a dozen button-mushrooms, three ounces of truffles cut into scollops, a little cayenne, and a small piece of glaze ; toss the whole together over the stove fire until mixed, and then add enough finished Lspagnole sauce for the entrée, and a little lemon-juice ; set the scollops to simmer on the fire for three minutes, and serve. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON, COMPRISING Carbonnades of Mutton, d la Richelieu. Fillets of Mutton, larded, with Chévreui! aA * a la Dauphinoise, sauce, or Roebuck fashion, &c. w 9 d la Flamande. Haricét of Mutton, ¢ la Nivernaise. 865. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON, A LA RICHELIEU. Bons two loins of mutton, leaving the small fillets adhering thereto; divest them of all the inside fat, season with pepper and salt, cut off the loose ends and flaps, and then roll them up tight, keeping the * Olives farcies, or stuffed olives, are sold in small bottles, and may be procured at Cross and BLACKWELL, Sho Sqnare 266 ENTRELS OF MUTTON. fillet in the centre; sew each of them up closely with string and a small trussing-needle, and tie them round with string to preserve their shape. Next, strew the trimmings over the bottom of an oval braizing-pan, place the carbonnades upon these, garnish with two carrots, two onions stuck with four cloves, two heads of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with a glass of brandy and suffi- cient broth or stock to cover the whole. SBraize the carbonnades on a gentle fire for about two hours, and allow them partially to cool in their own liquor; they must then be put in press between two dishes, taking care that the sewn-up part is placed undermost. When cold, trim them neatly in the form of oblong cushions, remembering that nearly the whole of the fat which covers them must be left on: this, however, must be pared smooth. Strain their liquor, remove the grease, clarify it in the usual way, and then boil it down to half glaze, half of which is to be put with the carbonnades in a covered fricandeau- pan, to warm them in; the remainder being used to work the sauce with. Half an hour before sending to table, put the carbonnades in the oven to be warmed through; then take the lid off, allow their sur- face to dry, and baste them frequently with their own glaze, until they assume a bright shiny surface ; they must then be placed side by side in their dish, garnished with potatoes previously cut in the form of olives, and fried in clarified butter; pour a Micheliew ragout (No. 210) under them, and serve. 866. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON, A LA DAUPHINOISE. Bone two loins of mutton, remove all the inside fat and the small fillets ; season with pepper and salt, and spread some highly-seasoned veal force-meat on the inside; they must then be rolled, sewn up, and afterwards corded round with string to make them retain their shape. - Braize the carbonnades in the same way as the foregoing, ana when done, put them in press, and cut each into six pieces in the form of a pointed scollop; trim these neatly, put them on an earthen dish, and then cover them over with a thin coating of d’Uzelles sauce (No. 16). Next remove them to a cold place that the sauce may the sooner become firmly set; then dip each separately in some beaten egg, and bread-crumb them. About twenty minutes before sending to table, place the carbonnades upon the wire-lining of a frying-pan, immerse them in some clean hogs’-lard made quite hot for the pur- pose, and fry them of a light-brown colour ; drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in a circular form, with the pointed ends placed towards the centre, so as to make them fit in with each other. Full the centre with a group of small tomatas “au gratin” (No. 1160), and place also a border of these round the base; pour some Provengale (No. 25) under the carbonnades, and serve. 867. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON, A LA FLAMANDE, PREPARE these as in the first case; and whea they are become sufficiently cold, cut each into six pieces in the form of pointed scol- lops, trim them smoothly and neatly, and then place them in a deep sautapan with some half glaze made from their own liquor. Half an hour before sending to table, put them in the oven to be warmed and glazed, as before directed; dish them up as in the preceding case, fill the centre with some prepared Brussels sprouts (N o. 156), over the HARICOT OF MUTTON. 267 part where the carbonnades join to each other; place a crescent of turnip round the base of the sprouts, add a neat border of glazed carrots, and garnish the base of the entrée with a Jardiniére (No. 144) ; pour some bright thin Hspagnole sauce under the entrée, and serve. Note.—Carbonnades, prepared and trimmed as directed in Nos. 865 and 867, may also be served with every sort of vegetable garnish, or purée of vegetables, described in this work. 868. FILLETS OF MUTTON LARDED, WITH CHEVREUIL SAUCE, OR ROEBUCK FASHION. Remove the fillets from two loins of mutton, pare off all the sinewy skin that lies beneath the fat, and divide each fillet, lengthwise, into four, these, together with the smaller fillets thus trimmed also, will make up ten; trim these and lard them closely with strips of fat bacon, in the usual way. The fillets must then be steeped in a cold marinade (No. 284) for about forty-eight hours; after which, drain them upon a napkin to absorb any unnecessary moisture. Next, place the fillets in a sautapan thickly spread with butter, and turn them round in a semicircular form; moisten with a little mirepoix (No. 236), or a glass of sherry; cover them with a buttered paper and set them in the oven to simmer for about twenty minutes; they must then be glazed, trimmed neatly round the ends, and dished up in a close circle, overlapping each other; fill the centre with potatoes cut in the form of olives, and fried in butter; pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29) under the fillets, and serve. | Vote—FVillets of mutton prepared as the foregoing, may also be garnished with quenelles of potatoes, with Chévrewil sauce (No. 69), Victoria sweet sauce, Tomata, Piquante, Gherkins, or Provengale sauce. 869. HARICOT OF MUTTON, A LA NIVERNAISE. Cor a neck of mutton into untrimmed cutlets, pare off any super- fluous fat, put them into a large stewpan with four ounces of butter, and fry them over a brisk fire until they become brown; then pour off the greater portion of grease, and shake in a good handful of flour, stir the whole over the fire for about five minutes, moisten with three pits of broth, and stir the haricét on the fire till it boils. Mean- while, prepare some carrots and turnips, cut in the form of small pears, olives, half-moons, or any other fancy shape, and throw these into the Aaricot ; a dozen small onions may also be added: season with a garnished faggot of parsley, and some mignionette pepper. Keep the haricot gently boiling by the side of the fire for about one hour and a half; skim off all the grease, remove the faggot of parsley, place the cutlets and vegetables in another stewpan, and after having boiled the sauce down (if necessary), pass it through a tammy upon the cut- lets. When about to send to table, warm the haricéé, dish the cutlets in the usual manner, fill the centre with the vegetables, pour the sauce wver all, and serve. Note-—Breasts of mutton with the superfluous fat removed, and eut into small square pieces, make a very good haricét, or stew. The foregoing may be varied by substituting green-peas, young carrots, turnips, or new potatoes for the vegetables directed to be used. SHEEP’S-TONGUES, COMPRISING Sheep’s-tongues, d ? H:arlate, with Spinach, &c. Sheep’s-tongues, @ la Napolitaine. o a la Maintenon. 4 with Gherkin sauce, Sheep’s-tongues should first be pickled in the manner directed for briskets of beef, &c.; for the preparation of which, see No. 564. 870. SHEEP’S-TONGUES, A L’ECARLATE, WITH SPINACH. From six to a dozen tongues suflice for an entrée; these must be braized in some wine mirepoix (No. 236), or common broth, garnished with the usual complement of vegetables, &c.: after about three quarters of an hour’s gentle boiling, they will be done: they must then be placed upon a dish, on their sides, and another dish with a weight in it should be laid upon them to press them evenly. When - the tongues are cold, trim them neatly, and place them in a deep sautapan with some half glaze, and about twenty minutes before sending to table, put them in the oven, to be warmed through, covered with a circular piece of buttered paper, to prevent their being dried up; roll them in their glaze, dish them up in the same manner as cutlets, fill the centre with spinach (No. 112), mix a spoonful of Lspagnole with the remainder of their glaze, pour it round the tongues, and serve. 871. SHEEP’S-TONGUES, A LA MAINTENON. ~ THEsE must first be braized, and when done, put in press between two dishes, and afterwards neatly trimmed. The tongues must then be finished in every respect the same as mutton cutlets d la Maintenon (No. 838). 872. SHEEP’S-TONGUES, A LA NAPOLITAINE. BraizE and trim the tongues as above, cover them all over with a thin coating of d’ Uzelles sauce (No. 16), andwhen this has becomefirmly set by cooling, dip each tongue in some beaten egg, and roll it in bread-crumbs ; flatten them smoothly with the blade of a knife, and then place them on a dish in the larder, until within about twenty minutes of dinner-time. The tongues must then be fried of a light- brown colour, in clean hog’s-lard made hot for the purpose, then drained upon a napkin, and dished up in the form of a close circle, the centre of which must be filled with macaroni dressed with cheese and a little Béchamel sauce ; pour some Napolitaine sauce (No. 63), under them, and serve. 873. SHEEP’S-TONGUES, WITH GHERKIN SAUCE. _ Prepare, finish, and dish up the tongues according to the directions im the first case, pour some gherkin sauce (No. 19) in the centre of tne entrée, and serve. Wote.—Sheep’s-tongues prepared after the foregoing directions, may be served with every kind of brown sauce or ragout; and also with any of the vegetable garnishes or pureés described in this work. SHEEP’S-HEAD AND KIDNEYS, COMPRISING Sheep s Kidneys, (a Brochette. Sheep’s Kidneys, with Fine-herbs. ua bread-crumbed, @ l’Epicu- as a la Claremont. rienne, Sheep’s Head, d ta Gallimaufreé. 874. SHEEP’S-KIDNEYS, A LA BROCHETTE. Suit the kidneys lengthwise, without cutting through the sinew; remove the thin skin which covers them, and place them in a smal! dish ; season with pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of salad oil, and allow them to steep in their seasoning until broiled. They must then be run on a small silver or any other kind of skewer (two or three on each), and placed upon a gridiron over a clear fire to be broiled, with the open side downwards ; when done brown, they must be turned up, as, from the heat of the fire, their sides become con- tracted, which causes them to form a sort of cup, to hold the gravy | in when the kidneys are done: care must be taken not to spill this gravy in dishing them up: fill each with a small piece of cold Maitre- @’ Hotel butter (No. 44), pour a little half glaze under them, and send to table quite hot. Broiled kidneys may also be served with anchovy butter, plain gravy, or a pat of fresh butter, and a spoonful of Harvey sauce. 875. SHEEP’S-KIDNEYS, BREAD-CRUMBED, A L’EPICURIENNE. Spuit the kidneys as before directed, season them with pepper and salt, dip them in clarified butter, and roll them in fresh-made bread- crumbs; place them on the skewers, and broil them on both sides: when done dish them up with a small piece of epicurean butter (No. 186) in each, the juice of a lemon and a little half glaze under them, and serve quite hot. 876. SHEEP’S-KIDNEYS, WITH FINE-HERBS. PREPARE some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), slit the kidneys length- wise, quite through; remove the skin, and then slice them into thin scollops. Place a sauta or frying pan, with two ounces of butter in it, on a brisk fire ; fry the kidneys brown, then add a glass of sherry or Madeira ; let this boil till reduced, then pour in the sauce prepared for the purpose ; allow the whole to simmer together on the stove for three minutes; dish them up with some pastry fleurons round them, and serve. 877. ANOTHER METHOD. Prepare the kidneys in thin scollops, season with pepper and salt, and fry them brown in a little butter; then throw in a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same of parsley, and two shalots, also chopped ; after allowing the whole to fry a few minutes longer, shake in a table-spoonful of flour, mix together, and moisten with a glass of sherry ; let this boil for two minutes, then add a large spoonful of brown gravy or broth ; allow the whole to simmer on the fire for five minutes, add a little lemon-juice, and serve. 270 3 ENTREES OF VEAL. | 878, SHEEP’S KIDNEYS, A LA CLAREMONT. Scontop and fry the kidneys as directed for those dressed with fine herbs; and when they are browned, add some Claremont sauce (No. 58); simmer the whole together for three minutes, and serve with a border of potato croquettes. 879. SHEEP’S-HEAD, A LA GALLIMAUFRE, +) Procvre the head and pluck of a fresh-killed sheep, split the head into halves, remove the brains, steep the whole in water, and wash them thoroughly. Next, place the head, heart, and liver in a stew- pan, with carrot, onion, garnished faggot of parsley, and green onions, two blades of mace, a dozen cloves, and a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns ; moisten with a glass of brandy, and sufficient broth or water (if the latter be used, salt must be added) ; cover the whole with buttered paper, and put the lid on; then set the stewpan on a gentle fire to braize for about one hour anda half. When the head, &c., are done, take them up carefully on a dish, strain the broth, and after having divested it of all grease, boil down one-half to thin glaze, and with the remainder make some brown sauce. The pieces of the head should be trimmed, seasoned with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and two shalots, then rubbed over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, well covered with bread-crumbs, and placed on a dish in the larder. The liver and heart must be minced up fine, and when the sauce.has been reduced to the usual consistency, add it to the mince together with a spoonful of fine-herbs and a httle lemon-juice. When about to send to table make the mince quite hot, and turn it out on its dish, pete the pieces of the head—previously broiled, on both sides, of a right yellow colour, and afterwards nicely glazed—upon the mince ; pour some of the thin glaze round the entrée, and serve. Note.—Sheep’s or lamb’s heads, when braized and bread-crumbed, may also be served with any kind of sharp sauce. ENTREES OF VEAL, COMPRISING Fricandeau, with Purée of Green-peas. Veal Cutlets, ¢ la Dreux. 7 a la Macédoine, &c. a la Perigord. Noix of Veal, d la Regence. i; a la Zingara. . ae a la Toulouse. + ad la Duchesse. Grenadins of Veal, with Spinach, &c. ee in Papillotes. Tendons of Veal, with stewed Peas, &c. Blanquette of Veal, with Mushrooms, &e. a aia Villerot, with Purée Croquettes of Veal, P of Celery, &c. Veal and Ham Scollops, with Italian sauce. Veal Kernels, with Purée of Artichokes. Scotch Scollops. ala Talleyrand. Minced Veal, and Poached Eggs. 39 Veal Cutlets, a la Financiére. ” a la Portuguaise. 880. FRICANDEAU, WITH PUREE OF GREEN-PEAS. THE fricandeau piece consists of that part of the leg of veal generally called the cushion, and is found on the inner side of the leg, lying im- idigr aa NOIX OF VEAL, 271 - mediately under the udder or fatty covering. This part must be -earefully cut out, by making a semicircular incision from one end round to the other, following the evident natural indication. Flatten the piece of veal slightly with a cutlet-bat, and then pare off the upper and under sinewy covering, leaving the surface perfectly smooth. e fricandeau must then be closely larded with the strips of fat bacon in the usual manner. Next, strew the bottom of a fricandeau pan with sliced carrot, onion, and celery, and a well-garnished faggot of arslev and green onions; cover these over with thin layers of fat es and then place the fricandeau on the top of all; moisten with good stock or broth in sufficient quantity to reach up to the larding, but not to cover it under; place a round of paper well buttered on the top, and cover with the lid. The fricandeau should be allowed to braize very gently for abcut three hours, either ‘n the oven or upon a very slow stove-fire, during which time it must be frequently basted with its own liquor; when nearly done, the paper and the lid must be altogether removed, in order to enable the larding to dry, and it should ‘be frequently basted with its own glaze, to give it a bright shiny appearance. Care must be taken to prevent the fricandeau from acquiring too much colour during the latter part of the process. Put some purée of green-peas (No. 106) in the centre of the dish, and with two forks carefully lift up the fricandeau, and place it upon the purée ; pour a little half glaze round the base, and serve. Note—Fricandeaux prepared as above may also be served with every kind of vegetable purée or garnish described in this work. 881. FRICANDEAU, A LA MACEDOINE. Tuts must be trimmed and larded as in the foregoing case ; then an incision of about three inches in length should be cut through its entire thickness, and a round or oval tin-cutter placed therem to distend the hollow part, so as to give it the appearance of a circle. Prepare and braize the fricandeau as before, and when done place it in its dish upon a base of quenelle force-meat; fill the centre of the fricandeau with a well-prepared. Macédoine of vegetables (No. 148), round which place a neatly-arranged border of small spring turnips split imto halves, turned in the shape of deep cups, and filled with green-peas: ornament the base of the fricandeau with a border of young spring carrots, nicely glazed: pour some thin Hspagnole round the entrée, and serve. 882. NOIX* OF VEAL, A LA REGENCE. In this case the udder must be left adhering to the noi, or cushion of veal; it must be neatly trimmed, and the udder made to represent the form of a half-moon, with the lean part (within the inner semi- circle) smoothly pared, and larded in the same manner as a fricandeau. This should then be placed in an oval stewpan upon a bed of vege- tables, covered with layers of fat bacon, moistened with half a pint of sherry or Madeira, and about a pint of good stock. The udder must be covered with layers of fat bacon, to preserve it white ; then place a thickly-buttered paper over all, and cover with the lid. The noir must be very gently braized on a slow fire, or in the oven, and fre- * Noix is the French technical term for that part of a leg of veal generally used for fricandeaua ; the English term for which is cushion, or mouse-piece, 272 ENLREES OF VEAL. quently basted with its own liquor,—care being taken that the larding is nicely glazed ; when nearly done the bacon must be removed from the udder, and the noiz placed in its dish; garnish it round with a Financiére ragout (No. 188), incorporated with the glaze from the noiz ; stick three ornamental silver skewers, previously garnished with a - large truffle, cock’s-comb, and a cray-fish, in the udder; glaze the larding, and serve. 883. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA TOULOUSE. PreEpaRE this as in the foregoing case, and when dished up, garnish with awhite Toulouse ragout (No. 87), using Allemande sauce for the purpose; stick in three ornamental silver skewers, garnished with a large cock’s-comb, a truffle, and a decorated quenelle ; keep the udder white, glaze the larding, and serve. Note.—This entrée may also be served with a garnish of prepared vegetables d la Macédome (No. 148). 884. GRENADINS OF VEAL, WITH SPINACH, ETC. Trim a fricandeau piece of white veal, and cut this into eight or ten fillets, beginning at the thick end; these must be flattened with a cutlet-bat dipped in water, and trimmed somewhat in the shape of fillets of fowl. They should then be closely larded with fat bacon, placed in neat order in a deep sauta or fricandeau pan, upon a bed of sliced vegetables covered over with layers of fat bacon; moisten with sufficient good stock, just to reach up to the larding, place the but- tered paper, and cover with the lid. The grenadins will require to be braized for about one hour and a quarter, during which time they must be frequently basted; when nearly done, remove the paper and glaze them. Next, drain them on a napkin, trim them, and dish them on a foundation of force-meat, in close order; fill the centre with some purée of spinach, pour some half glaze round the base of the entrée (made with the liquor from the grenadins), and serve. Note.—Grenadins may also be garnished with all kinds of ragouts and vegetable garnishes directed to be served with fricandeauc. 885, TENDONS OF VEAL, WITH STEWED PEAS, Trenpons of veal consist of that part which lies along the breast end of the ribs, forming an opaque gristly substance, which in the ox becomes bone. To extract these, an incision must be made right down the extreme edge of the breast of veal, without damaging the tendons, which should then be laid quite bare with the knife up to the commencement of the ribs, where they must be divided from them. The bony part, if any remain, must be pared away, and the tendons put to steep in water for an hour or so. They must then be tied up securely with string, and put to boil in the stockpot for about four hours ; or else, if there be no stockpot boiling at the time, place them in a stewpan, with the usual complement of vegetables and seasoning, covered over with a buttered paper; moisten with three quarts ot fresh broth or water, set them to braize on a slow fire, for about four hours, and when done, put them in press between two dishes, until they are cold. The tendons must then be cut slantwise, into rather a | zx . a” ENTREES OF VEAL. Bt ye large scollops, measuring about two inches im diameter, and when neatly trimmed, should be placed in a sautapan with some half-glaze to warm them in. Twenty minutes before sending to table, put the tendons in the oven, or on the stove-fire, to simmer for ten minutes; _ then allow them to boil briskly, so as to reduce the glaze, in which they must be gently rolled, to make it adhere to them; dish them u in a close circle upon a base of quenelle force-meat, fill the centre wit stewed peas, pour a little thin EHspagnole sauce into the sautapan, to eure with the glaze by boiling, use this to put round the entrée, and serve. Note.—Tendons of veal prepared as above, may also be served with every other kind of dressed vegetable garnishes, as well as with all sorts of purées of vegetables ; for making which see those articles. 886. TENDONS OF VEAL, A LA VILLEROI, WITH PUREE OF CELERY. PREPARE, braize, and trim the tendons, as directed in the foregoing case ; put them on a large earthen dish, and mask them over with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce; when this has become firmly set upon the tendons, by cooling, let them be dipped in beaten ege and bread-crumbed, and afterwards fried of a light colour in clean hog’s lard, made quite hot for the purpose. Let them be dished up in a close circle, overlapping each other, fill the centre with some puree of celery (No. 110), pour some half glaze or a little Supréme or Béchamel sauce round the entrée, and send to table. Note—Tendons prepared in this manner may also be garnished as the former. 887. VEAL KERNELS, WITH PUREE OF ARTICHOKES. Vz kernels are an oblong fatty substance, containing a kind of small kidney of great delicacy, lying to the left of the blade-bone of the shoulder ; these must be steeped in water for about half an hour, then parboiled for five minutes, immersed in cold water, drained upon a napkin, and put in press between two dishes. From ten to sixteen kernels suffice for an entrée. The kernels must be trimmed without waste, and placed in a deep circular fricandeau pan, upon thin layers of white veal; then moisten with some white-wine mirepoix (No. 236), and set them on a slow fire to braize very gently for about three quarters of an hour, bearing in mind that the heat of the stove is to be so regulated as to cause their liquor to be reduced to one-half its original quantity. The kernels must then be carefully removed into a sautapan, and their half glaze, when strained and divested of all grease, poured upon them. Place them on a brisk fire, and let them boil quickly till their moisture is reduced to a glaze, roll them gently in this, causing as much of it as possible to adhere to them, to give them a bright appearance. Then dish them up in a close circle upon a base of force-meat of veal, with a créuton of fried bread of the same shape between each kernel; fill the centre with some purée of arti- chokes (No. 117), pour some half glaze round the entrée, and serve. Note.—Veal kernels prepared and dished up in this manner may be garnished with all kinds of dressed vegetables and purées. - 274 ENTREES OF VEAL. 887. VEAL KERNELS, A LA DUCHESSE. Wuen the kernels have been braized, pressed, and trimmed, as directed in the foregoing part of the preceding article, let them be smoothly masked over with some well-reduced Allemande sauce; and after the sauce has been allowed sufficient time to become firm by cooling, bread-crumb the kernels, fry them in properly-heated frying- fat, of a light colour, and, having dished them up as directed in the preceding case, let the entrée be garnished and sauced similarly. 888. VEAL KERNELS, A LA TALLEYRAND. Paro and trim the kernels, then place them im a fricandeaw par. between thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with some wine mirepoix (No. 236), and braize them gently for three quarters of an hour; when done, put them on an earthen dish to cool, and mask each of them all over with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, mixed with 1 oz. of truffles, chopped fine; when the sauce has become firmly set as it cools, dip each in some beaten egg, and bread-crumb them carefully. About twenty minutes before sending to table, fry them of a bright-yellow colour, with clarified butter, in a deep sautapan; drain them upon a napkin, dish them up in a circle, garnish the centre with a ragout composed of small scollops of fat livers, truffles, mush- rooms and cock’s kernels, the whole of which must be tossed in good Allemande sauce; pour some thin Hspagnole sauce (finished with some of the mirepoix) under the kernels, and serve. 889. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA FINANCIERE. Procure a neck of very white veal, saw off the chine-bone, and the upper end of the ribs, leaving the cutlet-bones about three inches and a half long; then, divide it into cutlets; flatten these with a bat dipped in water, trim them neatly, and lard the lean of the cutlets closely with bacon, in the usual way. Next, prepare the cutlets for braizing in the same manner as directed for a fricandeau ; about one hour and a quarter will suffice to braize them, when they must be nicely glazed, dished up with the larded part of the cutlet uppermost, and the centre of the entrée filled with a rich Financiére ragout (No. 188) ; pour some of the sauce round the base of the cutlets, and serve. 890. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA DREUX. THESE should be cut rather thicker than usual, but neither flat- tened nor trimmed; they must be interlarded or studded through the lean part with about a dozen oblong pieces of red tongue, or ham, and black truffles about an inch long and a quarter of an inch in depth and thickness; these must be placed in a braizing-pan, upon a bed of sliced vegetables covered with thin layers of fat bacon, some mace, four cloves, twelve pepper-corns and a garnished faggot of parsley and green onions in the centre, and the whole again covered with layers of bacon ; moisten with two glasses of sherry and as much good stock as will suffice to cover the surface of the cutlets, and set them to braize on a slow fire for about one hour and a half, with the lid on; when done, allow them partially to cool in their own liquor. Then put them in press between two dishes, and when cold, let them be trimmed smooth, so as to show the truffle and tongue-studding. = ENTREES OF VEAL. 275 They should next be placed in a sautapan with some half glaze, made from their own liquor, and put away in the larder. Twenty minutes before sending to table, put the cutlets in the oven to be warmed through, then place them on the stove-fire to glaze; dish them up ir a close circle, fill the centre with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187), pour some thin Hspagnole sauce round the base of the entrée, and serve. 891. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA PERIGORD. Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, then dip them in some whipped white of eggs, and afterwards in some black truffles chopped very fine; flatten this on securely with the blade of a knife, and place them in clarified butter im a sautapan, in circular order. Twenty minutes before sending to table, fry the cutlets over a gentle fire, on both sides, until done through—taking care that the chopped truffles do not burn; when done, drain them on a piece of paper, glaze, and dish them up, fill the centre with scollops of red tongue and truffles; pour some Périgueur sauce (No. 23), and serve. 892. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA ZINGARA. Trem the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter. In another sautapan, prepare a similar number of thin oval scollops of raw ham. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets and the ham, glaze both, and dish them up—alternately placing a cutlet and a piece of ham; fill the centre with scolloped mushrooms and truffles, pour some thin Espagnole sauce into the sautapan the cutlets have been fried in, to this add a little cayenne and lemon-juice; simmer these together on the fire, pour the sauce over the cutlets, and serve. 893. VEAL CUTLETS A LA DUCHESSE. PREPARE these in the same way as the cutlets, @ la Dreux ; and when they have been trimmed, mask them all over with a coating of Atelet sauce (No. 36) and bread-crumb them as for a Villerot. Fry the cutlets of a bright-yellow colour in clarified butter, dish them up, and fill the centre with circular scollops of red tongue and button mush- rooms tossed in a little thick Allemande sauce ; pour some Tomata sauce (No. 22) round the base of the entrée, and serve. 894, VEAL CUTLETS, IN PAPILLOTES. Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, and fry them in a little clarified butter; when they are nearly done, add some mushrooms, parsley, and three shalots, the whole chopped fine; fry these together over the fire for five minutes, and then add two gravy- spoonfuls of Velouté, or any other white sauce, a little nutmeg, lemon- juice, and a small piece of glaze; simmer the whole together over a gentle fire for a few minutes, then add a leason of four yolks of eggs, toss the cutlets about to mix the leason in with the sauce, and let them become cool. In other respects, finish in the same way as directed for mutton cutlets, a la Maintenon (No. 8388). 895. BLANQUETTE OF VEAL, WITH MUSHROOMS. Tux veal for this purpose must first be roasted, and when cold, cut mto round thin scollops about an inch in diameter; to these add, oO ON a 275 ENTREES OF VEAL. | some button-mushrooms also cut into scollops, and enough Allemande sauce (No. 7) for the entrée. Just before sending it ‘to table, warm the blanquette, and dish it up with a border of croquettes of veal, of rice or potatoes. This dish may be varied by substituting scollops of truffles, cucumbers, or red tongue, for the mushrooms. 896. CROQUETTES OF VEAL, Cur about 11b. of roasted veal into very small dice, or mince it into very fine shreds ; add this to about half its quantity of mush- rooms, truffies or red tongue, cut up in the same manner. Next, reduce by boiling enough Allemande, Léchamel, Velouté or Supréme sauce for the entrée; and when it has become rather stiff, throw in the mince ; season with a little pepper and grated nutmeg; stir the whole well together, and then spread the preparation on a dish, about an inch thick ; smooth it over with the blade of a knife, cover with buttered paper, and put it into the larder to cool. It must then be divided into about two dozen pieces, and each of these rolled in bread- crumbs in the form of a common-sized cork or a round ball, or in the shape of a pear, and after being dipped in some beaten egg, must again be rolled in bread-crumbs, and placed on an earthen dish till within twenty minutes of dinner time; the croquettes must now be fried in clean hog’s-lard made quite hot for the purpose, and when done, drained upon a napkin to absorb all the grease, then dished up with fried parsley, and served immediately. Note.-—When croqguettes are shaped in the form of pears, some parsley stalks of equal lengths should be stuck in at the pointed ends, before they are fried, to imitate the stalk of a pear. 897. VEAL AND HAM SCOLLOPS, WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. Procure about 1 Ib. of veal, either from the leg, the chump-end ot the loin, or best end of the neck: cut this into round or oval scollops, season with pepper and salt, and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter: an equal number of similarly-cut scollops of ham may either be put with these, or separately. Try the veal and ham scollops nicely brown, pour off the grease, add the brown Italian sauce (No. 12) and some button-mushrooms; simmer the whole together for three minutes, dish them up, alternately placing a scollop of veal with the ham ; fill the centre with the mushrooms, pour the sauce round the entrée, and serve. ; 898, SCOTCH SCOLLOPS, Trim the scollops as in the foregoing case, season with parsley and shalots chopped fine, pepper and salt; place the scollops after they have been bread-crumbed in the usual way, in a sautapan with alittle clarified butter: mark the scollops of ham separately ; prepare also two dozen small round quenelles with some highly seasoned veal force- meat. When about to send to table, fry the scollops of veal and ham of a light colour, glaze them, and dish them alternately in a close circle—first placing a scollop of veal and then one of ham; fill the centre with the quenelles (previously poached), pour a little thickened brown gravy with a little glaze in it, or some well-finished Hspagnole sauce, round the entrée, and serve. HEART SWEETBREADS. “QUT 899. MINCED VEAL, AND POACHED EGGS. Pare off the outside part of 1 1b. of veal, and then let it be chopped very fine, or cut it intothin shreds. Put about half'a pint of Béchamel sauce (No. 5) into a stewpan and reduce it by boiling, until it be- comes rather thick, then add the minced veal, and a little cream ; seascn with pepper and salt, and a very little nutmeg ; stir the whole well together over the fire until warm, and dish it up in a conical form ; place six poached eggs round it with a circular scollop of glazed red tongue or ham between each egg; pour a little Béchamel sauce (No. 5) round the base of the entrée, and serve. 900. ANOTHER METHOD. Put a pat of butter into a stewpan on the fire, and when melted, throw in a table-spoonful of flour ; stir this with a wooden spoon over the fire for two minutes; then gradually mix in half a pint of broth, put the sauce on the fire, stirring it until reduced to the thickness of Béchamel sauce ; then add the minced veal, a gill of cream, a small piece of glaze, and a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this on the fire for three minutes, and serve as in the foregoing case. Note—Mushrooms, truffles, tongue or ham, either minced or cut into shreds, may be added to the veal, in either of the two foregoing Cases. 901. MINCED VEAL, A LA PORTUGUAISE. SEE the directions for dressing beef in this method (No. 810). HEART SWEETBREADS,* COMPRISING Sweetbreads, larded, with Stewed Peas, &c. Sweetbreads, larded, d Ja St. Cloud. $ » &la Monarque. rp » @la Parisienne, &c. 7 ”? a la Conti. 902. SWEETBREADS LARDED, WITH STEWED PEAS. TuRze heart sweetbreads generally suffice for a dish. They must be procured quite fresh, otherwise they are unfit for table, and should be steeped in water for several hours, and the water frequently changed ; the sweetbreads are then to be scalded in boiling water for about three minutes, and immersed in cold water for half an hour; after which they must be drained upon a napkin, trimmed free from any sinewy fat, and put between two dishes to be slightly pressed flat, and then closely larded with strips of bacon in the usual manner. The sweetbreads must next be placed in a deep sautapan on a bed of thinly sliced carrot, celery and onions, with a garnished faggot of parsley and * Sweetbreads, or Pancreas, are the two white glands found in calves; the one being placed immediately below the throat, and the other, of a rounder form, lying nearer the heart ; hence they are designated heart and throat sweetbreads: the former is the most delicate, and when in perfection, is white and fat; the latter is of an elongated form, not so fat as the other, and is only used for secondary purposes. 7 7 1 278 GEARS SWEETBREA’)S. green onions placed in the centre, and covered with thin layers of fat bacon. Moisten with about a pint of good stock, place a round of but- tered paper on the top, cover with the lid, and after having put the sweetbreads to boil on the stove-fire, remove them to the oven or ona moderate fire (in the latter case live embers of charcoal must be placed on the lid), and alle w them to braize rather briskly for about twenty minutes—frequently basting them with their own liquor. When done, remove the lid and paper covering, and set them again in the oven, to dry the surface of the larding; glaze them nicely, and dish them up on some stewed peas (No. 1175). Sweetbreads prepared in this way, may also be served with dressed asparagus-peas, French-beans, scollops of cucumbers, braized lettuces, celery, Macédoine of vegetables, Jardiniére, and also with every kind of vegetable purée described in this work. To raise the sweetbreads above the garnish or sauce served with them, it is necessary to place as many foundations as there are sweet- breads in the dish; these may be made, either by boiling some rice in broth until it becomes quiet soft, then working it into a paste; after this has been spread on a dish about an inch thick, a circular tin- cutter must be used to stamp it out. They may also be prepared from veal force-meat, or even fried créutons of bread will serve the purpose. 903. SWEETBREADS, A LA MONARQUE. TrxsE must be larded and braized as the foregoing; then cut a kind of pillar out of a piece of stale bread, of angular shape, about three inches high, each side of the angle, measuring about two inches ; this should be fried in hog’s lard, of a bright-yellow colour, and stuck in a perpendicular position in the centre of the dish with a little paste made of flour and egg. The sweetbreads are to be so arranged as to have one end resting up against this créustade, and between each a deco- rated minion fillet of fowl is to be placed ; crown the top with a row of white double cocks’-combs, stick in an ornamental silver skewer garnished with a large cocks’-comb, a mushroom, a large crayfish and a truffle; pour a /’inanciére ragout (No. 188) round the enérée, and serve. 904. SWEETBREADS, A LA CONTI ArtsrR the sweetbreads have been scalded and pressed flat, make about a dozen incisions round the sides of their upper surface with the point of a small knife, in a slanting direction, to the depth of half an inch ; in these incisions insert circular scoliops of black truffle, and repeat this so as to form an inner circle in the same manner. Next, prepare the sweetbreads for braizing, placing them upon a bed of thinly-sliced carrot, onion, and celery, covered with thin layers of bacon, layers of the same being placed also over the sweetbreads; moisten with good white stock, and braize the sweetbreads about twenty minutes. When the sweetbreads are done, drain them on a napkin, and glaze them lightly, without drying the glaze on; when about to dish them up, garnish with a ragout composed of small que- sielles of fowl, button mushrooms, cocks’-combs and kernels, crown the whole with a large truffle, place a crayfish between each sweetbread. pour some Périgueux sauce (No. 23) under the entrée, and serve. Note —The sweetbreads may be varied by scolloping, or contiser BCT fy 2 he iH BE ce THROAT SWEETBREADS. 279 one-half with truffle, and the remainder with red tongue, or mixing _ the latter with green gherkins. 905. SWEETBREADS, A LA ST. CLOUD. TuEsE should be scalded and pressed in the usual way, and studded over in neat circular order with pieces of black truffle or red tongue, cut out in the form of large ok then make twelve openings with a blunt wooden skewer in each sweetbread, and introduce in these the nail-like pieces of tongue perpendicularly. Braize them according to the directions for the foregoing, and when done, dish them up with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187); garnish the entrée round the base with a border of small quenelles decorated with truffles, and place a group of trimmed crayfish-tails, previously tossed in a little glaze, coloured with lobster-coral; slightly glaze the sweet- breads, and serve. _ 906. SWEETBREADS, A LA PARISIENNE. Arrur the sweetbreads have been scalded and pressed, let them be larded in the following manner: one with shreds of very black truffles, another with shreds of the tip of a red tongue, and the third with some green stalks of parsley; braize them between layers of fat bacon, and moisten with a wine mirepoiz (No. 236). When they are done, dish them up against a triangular créustade, garnished with a well-arranged Parisian ragout (No. 203) ; stick an ornamental silver skewer, gar- aished with a double comb, a large truffle and a decorated queneile, in the centre of the créustade, and round the base of the skewer, stud a border of crayfish-tails, slightly glaze the sweetbreads, and serve. Note.—Sweetbreads may also be served roasted for persons of delicate health, being very nutritious, and easy of digestion. In such cases they may be served with a little plain gravy, Supréme or brown sauce. THROAT SWEETBREADS, COMPRISING Epigramme of Sweetbreads, Scollops of Sweetbreads, d la Mareéchale, Scollops of Sweetbreads, with Shalot Gravy. 3 an d la Soubise. ‘ h a la Dauphine. re a a la Poulette. = . a la d’ Uceiles. Croquettes of Sweetbreads. 907. EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS. Procure four throat sweetbreads, and steep them in water for several hours, changing the water frequently, until they are freed from redness: they must then be scalded for five minutes in boiling water, and after being immersed in fresh water to cool them, should be put in press between two dishes, to flatten. Next, put one of the sweetbreads to braize in some white broth: when done, set it aside to get cool, and let it be afterwards cut into small circular scollops, and placed in a small stewpan, with an equal quantity of scollops of red tongue and mushrooms. Cut the three remaining sweetbreads, in a slanting direction, into oval scollops a quarter of an inch thick ; bread- 280 THROAT SWEETBREADS, crumb one-half with two coatings of bread-crumbs, by dipping them the first time in beaten egg, and the second in clarified butter ; place these in a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and prepare the other half separately in a similar manner, without bread-crumbing them ; both must be seasoned with pepper and salt. When about to _ gend to table, fry the bread-crumbed scollops of a light colour, but - the others should be merely simmered over a slow fire, in order to keep them as white as possible; glaze the former and toss the latter in a little Béchamel sauce, dish them up, alternately placing a bread- crumbed scollop with a white one; fill the centre with the small scollops of tongue, &c., previously warmed in a little Béchamel sauce, pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. 908. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, WITH SHALOT GRAVY. BreEap-cRums the whole of the scollops, as directed in the foregoing case, fry them of a light colour, drain them on a piece of paper, and glaze; dish them up in a close circle, pour some rich shalot gravy (No. 167) under them and serve. 909. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA DAUPHINE. Cur the sweetbreads into oval scollops, place them in a sautapan with a little clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, a little nut- meg and some chopped parsley, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, and simmer them gently over the fire for ten minutes ; they must then be removed into a dish, and when partially cold, covered with a thin coating of purée of fowl, mixed with an equal proportion of reduced Allemande sauce, and when this has become firmly set by cooling, dip them in beaten egg, and bread-crumb them. ‘Twenty minutes before sending to table, let them be carefully fried in pienty of hog’s-lard, made hot for the purpose; drain them on a napkin to absorb all the grease, dish them up in a close circle, pour some purée of mushrooms (No. 122) in the centre, and serve. 910. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA D’UXELLES. THESE are prepared in almost every particular just as the foregoing, except that D’Uzelles sauce (No. 16) must be substituted for the purée to mask the scollop with. After having simmered, let them be masked with the sauce, and afterwards bread-crumbed ; then fried, dished up and served with either of the following sauces :-—Brown or white Italian, Poivrade, half glaze, scollops of mushrooms or truffles, purée of truffles, plain gravy, or purée of mushrooms. 911. scoLLOPs OF SWEETBREADS, A LA MARECHALE. T'EsE must be seasoned with a little pepper and salt, masked over ‘with a thin coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and afterwards bread- erumbed upon this ; they should then be placed in circular order in a sautapan with some clarified butter, and fried of a bright-yellow colour. When done, dish them up in close order, and let the centre be filled with Toulouse ragout (No. 187). 912. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA SOUBISE. PREPARE and dish up these, as the foregoing ; fill the centre with Soubise sauce (No. 119), and serve. 7 CALF’S LIVER, ETC. 281 "The may also be scored with all kinds of garnishes of dressed vegetables, purées of vegetables, or any kind of sauce served with cutlets. 913. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA POULETTE. Wuen the sweetbreads have been scalded in the usual manner, cut them into circular scollops, place them in neat order in a sautapan, with a little clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and lemon-juice ; simmer them over a moderate fire for about ten minutes, and when done, remove them into a stewpan containing enough sauce a la Poulette for the entrée, add some scollops of mush- rooms or truffles, toss the whole together gently over the stove-fire until sufficiently hot, and then dish them up in a pyramidal form, and serve with a border of croquettes of potatoes round the entrée. Note-—Scollops of sweetbreads d la Russe, and a la Provengale, are prepared ig the same manner as veal cutlets under these names. 914. CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS. Wuewn the sweetbreads have been scalded, put them into a small stewpan with two shalots, a little mignionette-pepper and salt, half a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme; moisten with some stockpot toppings, and set them to braize gently for about twenty minutes; when done, drain them on a plate to get cold, after which let them be cut up into very small dice, and mix with some stiff-reduced Allemande sauce ; season with a little pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg; stir the whole gently over the stove-fire for two minutes, spread the prepara- tion on a dish about an inch thick, and put it in the larder to get cold. The croquettes then must be shaped, bread-crumbed, and fried in the same manner as directed for veal croquettes. Note.—Some red tongue, mushrooms or trufiles, cut into small dice, may also be mixed in with the sweetbreads. CALF’S EARS, FEET, LIVER, AND BRAINS, COMPRISING Calf’s Har, d la Tortué. Calf’s Liver, fried, with Fine-herbs Sauce ‘3 fried, with Tomata Sauce. Cali’s Brains, with Matelotte Sauce. Calfs Feet, a la Pascaline. a with Nutbrown Butter. * fried, with Italian Sauce. er fried, d la Provengale. Calf’s Liver, braized, with Vegetables. * Scolloped. 915. CALF’S EARS, A LA TORTUE. Procure four white calf’s ears (cut with a broad base), scald them in boiling water for five minutes, after which plunge them in cold water, and let them be wiped dry ; then hold them on the point of a skewer over the flame of a charcoal fire, to singe off any remaining hairs ; wipe them clean, rub them over with lemon-juice, and braize them in some blanc (No. 235) for about an hour and a half or two hours. When the ears are done, drain them on a wet napkin, and with the back of the blade of a amall knife scrape off all the soft skin; 982 CALF 8 LIVER, ETC. trim them neatly, and with the point of a knife, cut the white gristle of each into slits,—taking particular care not-to draw the knife through —so that when the thin part of the ears is turned down, the stripes may form themselves into loops or curls. When the ears are ready to dish up, fill each with a decorated quenelle or a round truffle, garnish with a ragout a la Tortué (No. 189), and serve. . 916. CALF’S EARS FRIED IN BATTER, WITH TOMATA SAUCE. Prepare the ears as directed in the foregoing, and when done, let them be trimmed ; scrape off the soft skin from the upper part, and cut each ear into four pieces lengthwise; put them to steep in a basin with two spoonsful of salad oul, one of vinegar, two sliced sha- lots, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, and a little mignionette-pepper and salt. About twenty minutes before dinner time, drain the pieces of ears on a cloth, dip them in some light batter, and fry them in plenty of hog’s-lard heated to the proper degree for the purpose. en fried, dish them up in a pyramidal form, pour some Zomata sauce (No. 22) under them and serve. Note.—Calf’s ears prepared in this manner, may also be served with any of the following sauces: Piquante, Poivrade, Italian, Gherkin, Poor-man’s, Provengale, or Richelieu. If, however, this kind of fritter 1s not eaten as soon as served, it would be better to send the sauce separately. 917. CALF’S FEET, A LA PASCALINE, SEPARATE each foot into halves, by splitting the hoof with a knife, take the bone out, and scald these in boiling water for five minutes ; the feet must then be braized in blanc (No. 235), and when done, drained upon a cloth, cut into pieces about two inches square, and put into a stewpan containing some button-mushrooms and Pascakne sauce (No. 15) ; toss them in this over the stove-fire until sufficiently hot, and serve with a border of fleurons or potato croquettes round the entrée. 918. CALF’S FEET FRIED IN BATTER, WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. THESE are prepared in all respects the same as calf’s ears fried, but substituting Italian sauce (No. 12) for Zomata sauce. 919 CALF’S LIVER BRAIZED, WITH VEGETABLES, CHoose a liver of a bright pinky colour, entirely free from any whitish spots ; wash and wipe it dry, and then lard it through with strips of ham and fat bacon,—previously seasoned with chopped parsley, pepper, and a very little salt ; cover the bottom of a stewpan with veal or other trimmings of meat, place the liver upon them, gar- nish with two carrots, two onions stuck with four cloves each, two heads of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley ; moisten with two glasses of Sherry, and a quart of strong stock ; place a buttered paper on the top, cover with the lid, and set the liver to braize very genth on a slow fire for about two hours and a half: frequently basting it with its own liquor while it is being braized. "When done, remove the liver into a deep sautapan, with part of its liquor, previously reduced to half-glaze; use the remainder to work some brown sauce for the entrée; put the liver in the oven to be glazed with its own liquor, and when done dish it up with groups of small carrots, turnips, and glazed onions round its base, pour the sauce under it, and serve. 920. FRIED CALF’S LIVER, WITH FINE-HERBS SAUCE. Cor the liver up into neat scollops about a quarter of an inch thick, season with pepper and salt, and fry them brown in a sautapan with a little clarified butter ; when this is done, pour off all the grease, add some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), simmer the whole together on the fire for about three minutes, and serve. 921. CALF’S BRAINS, WITH MATELOTTE SAUCE. Strep three sets of brains in water for several hours, care being taken to change the water frequently—and remove the loose skin that contains them ; after being washed, and placed in a stewpan, contain- ing some boiling water, and seasoned with a gill of vinegar, some thinly-sliced carrot and onion, thyme and bay-leaf, pepper and salt, let them boil gently for about twenty minutes. The brains must then be drained upon a cloth, and six créutons cut in the shape of large cocks’-combs previously stuck on the bottom of an entrée dish, so as to form as many compartments ; place a lobe of brains in each of these, make a slight incision in each portion of the brains, and insert in it a scolloped circular piece of red tongue; pour a Matelotte ragout (No. 193) over the entrée, and serve. 922. CALF’S BRAINS, WITH NUTBROWN BUTTER. Prepars, and dish up the brains as in the foregoing case; Fee some nutbrown butter (No. 93) over them, place a bouquet of fried parsley in the centre, and serve. 923. CALF’S BRAINS FRIED IN BATTER, A LA PROVENCALE. THxsE must be cleaned, gently boiled in water, vinegar, &c.; and when drained, cut into oval scollops, and steeped in a basin with a little oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. When about to send to table, fry them in batter in the usual way (see directions for calf’s ears No. 916), after which dish them up with some Provengale sauce (No. 25) under them, and serve. Note.—They may also be served with Tomata, Italian, Piquante, or Poivrade sauce. 924. CALF’S BRAINS SCOLLOPED. WueEn the brains have been dressed, cut them into rather small scol- lops, and put them into a sautapan with a few scolloped mushrooms and truffles, season with a little cayenne and grated nutmeg, pour in some Allemande sauce (No. 7) and juice of half a lemon; toss the whole gently together over the fire, and with this preparation fill as many silver scollop shells as will hold it; cover these over with a coating of fried bread-crumbs or raspings, place them for two minutes in a hot oven to gratiate, dish them up on a napkin, ana serve. CALF’S LIVER, ETC. 283. 284 ENTREES OF LAMB, COMPRISING Shoulder of Lamb, larded, d la Financiere. Neck of Lamb, d la Régence. Epigramme of Lamb, with Mushrooms, ‘i », Gla Villerot, with Peas. Breasts of Lamb, d la Maréchale, with New Potatoes. Lamb Cutlets (plain), with Cucumbers, &c. Lamb Cutlets, bread-crumbed, with Aspa- ragus Peas. a a la Chévreuse. Braized Carbonnades of Lamb. Lamb’s Sweetbreads, d la Toulouse, &e. Blanquette of Lamb’s Sweetbreads. Lamb’s Sweetbreads Scolloped. 925. SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED, A LA FINANCIERE. Saw off the upper part of the shank-bone of a shoulder of lamb, then bone it entirely—with the exception of about three inches of the shank or leg bone, which must be left in. Spread the shoulder open, season with pepper and salt, garnish it with a thick layer of veal or fowl forcemeat ; then with a small trussing-needle and some fine string draw the outer edges of the skinny part of the shoulder into a purse- like form, and tighten the strings so as to give it the appearance of a cushion ; and, after removing the superficial skin in a circular shape, lard it closely. Next, strew the bottom of a stewpan with sliced carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley; cover this with thin layers of fat bacon, and place the shoulder of lamb upon it; moisten with sufficient good stock to reach up to the larding, place a buttered paper on the top, and cover with the lid; then set it to braize very gently upon a slow fire for about an hour and a half,—with some live embers of charcoal on the lid—and take care to baste it frequently. ‘When done, remove it into a deep sautapan, and after having strained the liquor, free it from all grease, boil it down to half glaze, pour this on to the lamb, and put it in the oven to glaze, repeatedly basting the larding till the moisture is lessened. The ballotine* or shoulder of lamb must then be placed upon its dish, and garnished with a Financiere ragout (No. 188); put a paper ruffle on the bone, and serve. 926. NECK OF LAMB, A LA REGENCE. PREPARE this in exactly the same way as directed for necks of mutton larded en chevaux-de-frise (No. 611). When braized, glaze it nicely, and place it upon its dish, garnish it with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187), and serve. Note-—Necks of lamb prepared as the foregoing, may also be served with a, Macédoine of vegetables, or a Jardiniére. 927. EPIGRAMME OF LAMB, A LA TOULOUSE. Trim a neck of lamb into cutlets, and place them into a sautapan with some clarified butter; then braize a breast of lamb until quite tender, take it up, remove the bones and put it in press between two aishes; when cold, cut it into as many cutlet-shaped pieces as there are * Shoulders of Lamb prepared in the foregomg manner—called, in French, “ Ballot- ines ’’—may also be served with every kind of dressed vegetables, or. purées of vegetables. aie Py ye . 7 Bar) NEN plete? ENTREES OF LAMB. 289 cutlets from the neck, insert a small piece of bone in each, and bread- crumb them over a coating of Allemande sauce, dip them in some beaten egg, bread-crumb them again, and place them in a sautapan with clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets in both. sautapans ; as soon as they are done, glaze them lightly and dish them up—alternately placing a plain cutlet and one that is bread-crumbed ; fill the centre with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187), pour some Espagnole half-glaze round the entrée, and serve. ° Note.—Epigrammes of lamb may also be garnished with a blanquette, with scollops of cucumbers, stewed peas, asparagus-peas, &c. 928. BREASTS OF LAMB, A LA VILLEROI, WITH PEAS. _ Bzratzz two breasts of lamb, in the stock-pot, or in any kind of white broth ; when done, take them up carefully, remove all the bones, and reserve these for the purpose of making cutlet bones with; put the breast in press between two dishes, and when cold cut them into about twelve pieces, in the form of an elongated heart, or of a cutlet ; stick a small bone in at the narrow end, and spread a coating of re- duced. Allemande sauce over them; when this is set firm by cooling, roll them first in bread-crumbs and then dip them in beaten egg, and bread-crumb them over again. When about to send to table, fry these cutlets in plenty of hog’s-lard quite hot, dish them up, garnish them with stewed peas, pour some half-glaze round the base, and serve. Note.—Breasts of lamb prepared @ la Villerot may also be served with spinach, endives, cucumbers, asparagus-peas, Macédoine, &c. 929. BREAST OF LAMB, A LA MARECHALE, WITH NEW POTATOES. Trim and prepare these, in the same way as the foregoing, but the coating of sauce must be thinner in this case ; bread-crumb them twice over the sauce, first dipped in beaten egg and then in clarified butter, over which bread-crumb them the second time; put them in shape with the blade of a knife, and place them in a sautapan with a little clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets of a light colour, dram them on a sheet of paper and glaze them lightly ; dish them up, and serve some white Italian sauce (No. 18) under them. ‘They may also be served with all kinds of vegetable garnishes. 930. LAMB CUTLETS PLAIN, WITH CUCUMBERS. Iy trimming these cutlets, care must be taken not to pare off any more of the fat than is positively necessary to give them shape. When trimmed, place the cutlets in a sautapan with clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, fry them on both sides of a light-brown colour, pour off the grease, throw in a little glaze, toss them over the fire in this, and dish them up; garnish the centre with prepared scollops of cucumbers (No. 188), pour a little Hspagnole or half-glaze round the entrée, and serve. 931. LAMB CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED, WITH ASPARAGUS-PEAS. - Term the cutlets, season with pepper and salt, rub them over with a paste-brush dipped in yolks of eggs, and roll them in bread-crumbs ; 286 ENTREES OF LAMB. | then dip them in some clarified butter and bread-crumb them over again; put them in shape with the blade of a knife, and place them in neat order in a sautapan with some clarified butter. hen about to send to table, fry the cutlets of a light colour, drain them upon a sheet of paper, glaze and dish them up; fill the centre with asparagus- yeas (No. 148), pour some thin /spagnole or half-glaze round them, and serve. 932. LAMB CUTLETS, A LA CHEVREUSE. THESE must be cut rather thick, allowing two ribs for each, but they should not be trimmed; prepare and braize them in the same manner as veal cutlets d la Dreux (No. 890); and when done, pressed, and triramed, mask them over with a purée of onions mixed with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; when cold they should be dipped in beaten egg, and afterwards rolled in bread-crumbs ; put them into shape with the blade of a knife, and place them in order upon a dish or sautapan, until dinner-time. Then fry them in heated hog’s-lard, of a bright- yellow colour, dish them up, put a small paper frill on the bone of each cutlet ; fill the centre with small circular scollops of truffles, mush- rooms, and fat livers, tossed in some Supréme sauce (No. 388), pour some of tle sauce round the base of the entrée, and serve. Note.—In addition to the foregoimg methods for dressing lamb cutlets, they may also be served in every variety of form in which veal or mutton cutlets are prepared. 933. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF LAMB. Loins of lamb are used for this, and should be prepared and finished according to the directions for carbonnades of mutton (No. 865). 934. LAMB’S SWEETBREADS, A LA TOULOUSE. Axovurt ten heart sweetbreads are necessary for an entrée ; steep these i cold water for a couple of hours, and then scald them slightly to set them, for the purpose of being afterwards larded; they must next be placed in a deep sautapan, covered with thin layers of fat bacon or else spread with butter; moisten with sufficient strong consommé to reach nearly up to the larding ; place a but- tered paper upon them, and put them to bo:l briskly on a stove-fire for five minutes, then set them in the oven, or cover them with a lid con- taining live emblems of charcoal, and place them on a moderate stove-fire to simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, frequently basting them with their own liquor. When the sweet- breads are nearly done, remove the lid and the paper, put them in the oven or pass the red-hot salamander over them to dry the larding, and then glaze them. When dished up, each sweetbread should be placed in the dish upon a base, formed of quenelle force-meat made of fowl or real, and shaped to resemble a dariole-mould: these of course should ee BOUDINS OF FOWL. 309 1005. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA PERIGUEUX. THESE must be prepared, in the first instance, in the same manner as the foregoing: after the centre has been scooped out, the cavity of these should be filled up with some purée of truffles (No. 121); then, the boudins must be closed-in with a thin coating of the force-meat, and after being rubbed over with a paste-brush, and dipped in some beaten white of egg, should be sprinkled over with black trufiles chopped very fine, and must be poached and afterwards dished up in a close circle, Pour some Périgueux sauce (No. 23) under them, and serve. 1006. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA SEFTON. Prepare the force-meat in the usual way, and before using it, incorporate therewith about two table-spoonfuls of purée of mush- rooms (No. 122); then divide the force-meat into three equal parts, roll these, with the aid of a little flour shaken over them, into square oblong shapes,* measuring about six inches in length; place these in a deep sautapan, previously spread with butter to receive them, and poach them as directed in former cases; when done, drain them upon a napkin, dish them up in the form of an angle, or in a row, side by side; place two minion fillets that have been larded and glazed across the ends of each, garnish with a white Jinanciére ragout (No. 188), and serve. 1007. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA D’ARTOIS. Prepare about twelve small oval or oblong flat quenelles of force- raeat of fowls, and when they have been poached, drained, trimmed, and then scooped out as directed for the quenelles a la Maréchale, fill the cavities with a salpicont composed of truffles, mushrooms, and red tongue mixed with a little reduced » With Truffles, d ?Italiénne. 1051. LARKS, A LA MINUTE. Cur off the legs, and pick out the gizzards with the point of a small knife; then place the larks in a deep sautapan previously spread with butter; season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a brisk fire until they have erica a brown colour, and are nearly done ; all the grease must be poured off, and a large gravy-spoonful of Espagnole sauce, half a pottle of mushrooms, a small piece of glaze, a pat ot butter, and the juice of half a lemon, should then be added; toss them over the stove-fire until the whole is well mixed, then dish up the larks with fried créutons of bread round them, pour the mushrooms and sauce over the entrée, and serve. 1052. LARKS, A LA CHIPOLATA. Prepare and fry the larks as directed in the foregoing case, and when done, pour off the grease, and add some Chipolata ragout (No. 190) ; toss and simmer this over the stove-fire for five minutes, then dish up eight of the larks upon as many small oval créutons, place eight more créutons on these, and set a like number of larks upon them; fill the centre with the ragout, pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve. 1053. LARKS, WITH FINE-HERBS. Trim the larks and draw the gizzards, place them in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt ; fry them of a light-brown colour over a brisk fire, and then add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, an equal proportion of parsley, and two shalots also chopped; simmer these with the larks for five minutes longer, then add a gravy-spoonful of Espagnole sauce (No. 3), a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter, the juice of half a lemon and a little grated nutmeg; toss the whole well together over the fire for two minutes, and dish them in a neat pyra- midal form, place some créutons of fried bread round the entrée, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 1054. LARKS, WITH TRUFFLES, A L’ITALIENNE. Fry these as directed in the foregoing ‘cases, and when they have acquired a light-brown colour, pour off the grease, add some brown Italian sauce (N>. 12), half a pottle of mushrooms, and about twe ounces of truffies cut into scollops; toss the whole together over the ¥ 2 324 ENTREES OF RABBITS. ag fire for five minutes, dish up the larks in double rows, with créutons of bread in between each row, fill the centre with the truffles and. mushrooms, pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve. é ENTREES OF RABBITS, COMPRISING Rabbit, @ Ja Chasseur. Fillets of Rabbits, larded, d la Toulouse, &c, » fried in Batter, with Potvrade 4 a la Maréchale, &c. sauce. Blanquette of Rabbits, d l’Ecarlate. »» 4@ la Bourguignonne. Polpeties of Rabbit, d ?Ttaliénne, » Gla Peériqueuz. 1055. RABBIT, A LA CHASSEUR. Cur up the rabbit into small joints, as follows :—first, take off the hind legs even with the loins, then remove the shoulders, split the head into halves, and divide the loins into six pieces; trim these neatly without waste, and place them in a sautapan with two ounces of clarified butter, pepper and salt. Fry them of a light-brown colour over a rather brisk fire, and add a table-spoonful of chopped fine- herbs, consisting of mushrooms, truffle, parsley, and shalot ; then put the lid on, and set the rabbit over a slow fire for about ten minutes longer; next pour off all the grease, add a large gravy-spoonful of Espagnole sauce, some scollops of mushrooms and truffles, two dozen small quenelles of rabbit, a small piece of glaze, a little nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon; simmer the whole together on the stove- fire for three minutes, then pile up the pieces of rabbit in the dish, arrange the ragout over this in neat groups, pour the sauce over the entrée, place some créutons of fried bread round it, and serve. 1056. RABBIT FRIED IN BATTER, WITH POIVRADE SAUCE. Cur the rabbit up as in the foregoing case, and then follow the directions given for dressing chickens in this manner (No. 988). 1057. RABBITS, A LA BOURGUIGNONNE. Cur tae rabbits up into small joints, season with pepper and salt, and fry them slightly over the fire, without allowing them to acquire much colour, adding half a pint of button-onions previously parboiled in water, a very little grated nutmeg and half a pottle of mushrooms ; toss these over the fire for five minutes, then add a tumblerful of French white wine (Chablis or Sauterne), and set this to boil sharply until reduced to half the quantity ; next, add two large gravy-spoont of Velouté sauce (No. 4:), simmer the whole together gently for ten minutes longer, and finish by incorporating a leason of four yoiks of eggs, the. juice of half a lemon, and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parboiled parsley ; dish up the pieces of rabbit in a pyramidal form, garnish the entrée with the onions, &c., placed in groups round the base, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 1058. RABBITS, A LA PERIGUEUX. Cur these up, and fry them with a little butter of a lignt-brown colour: pour off the grease, add some Périgueua sauce (No. 23), four 2. BLANQUETTES OF RABBITS. 320 ounces of truffles cut into scollops, and two dozen small guenelles of rabbit, and simmer the whole together over the stove-fire for five minutes ; ‘dish up the entrée with créutons round it, garnish with the ragout, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 1059. FILLETS OF RABBITS LARDED, A LA TOULOUSE. Fitter four or six rabbits (according to the number of guests) trim the fillets and lard two-thirds of each—beginning at the thick end; then place them in a circular row, all curved in the same direc- tion, in a sautapan, the bottom of which should be lined with thin’ layers of fat bacon. About twenty minutes before sending to table, pour a little strong consommé or thin half-glaze to the fillets, place a round piece of buttered paper upon them, and set them in the oven to simmer for ten minutes; then remove the paper, dry the larding and glaze it, frequently basting the fillets with their own glaze; next, drain them upon a napkin, trim and dish them up im a close circle, fill the _ centre with ragout ad la Toulouse (No. 187), pour some of the sauce round the base, glaze the larding of the fillets, and serve. Note.—Fillets of rabbits larded, may also be garnished with either a ragout a la Parisienne, or a la Financiere; with small quenelles, scollops of truffles, of mushrooms, or of cucumbers; and with any kind of dressed vegetables or purées. : 1060. FILLETS OF RABBITS, A LA MARECHALE. Fixer four rabbits, slightly flatten, and then trim the fillets, mak- ing an incision round the interior part of them; fill this with some @ Uxelles sauce (No. 16); mask them over with a thin coating of Alle- mande sauce, and when this has become firmly set by cooling, bread- erumb them twice: once dipped in beaten egg, and then, after being sprinkled over with clarified butter; broil the fillets over a clear fire of moderate heat, with a sheet of oiled paper placed upon the grid- iron; when done of a light colour on both sides, dish them up ina close circle, fill the centre with scollops of the kidneys and inner fillets, mixed with truffles and mushrooms, and tossed in a little Alle- mande sauce; glaze the fillets, pour some bright Hspagnole sauce, worked with essence made from the carcasses, round the base of the entrée, and serve. R Note.—These fillets may also be served with some bright aspic, with cucumbers, a purée of celery, or white Italian sauce. 1061. BLANQUETTE OF RABBITS, A L’ECARLATE. Fituet three rabbits, cut off the hind-quarters, place them upon an iron skewer; lay this upon a large sheet of thickly: buttered paper, season with pepper and salt, and strew upon it some thinly-slced carrot, an onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; wrap the paper round them, and then tie the skewer upon a spit, and roast them before the fire for about twenty minutes; then take them up on a dish, and leave them in the paper till they have become cold; the meat must next be peeled off, cut into small dice, and made up into croquettes (No. 1020). ‘Trim the fillets, and place them in a sautapan with « little clarified butter, pepper and salt, and simmer them in the oven or over a slow fire for about ten minutes, without allowing them to SS 326 ENTREES OF HARE, acquire any colour; then drain them, and cut them into sloping secol- lops; put these into a stewpan with one-third of their proportion of scollops or red tongue and some mushrooms ; add two gravy-spoonfuls of Allemande sauce (No 7), warm the Blanquette, gently tossing it over the fire, and dish it up in the form of a dome; garnish it round with the croquettes, previously fried, mask the Blanquette with a spoonful of the sauce, and serve. 1062. POLPETTES OF RABBITS, A L'ITALIENNE, Roast two rabbits, and when they are cold, cut off all the meat and chop it up fine; put this into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, an equal proportion of parsley and two shalots, also chopped, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a little grated nutmeg, and two gravy spoonfuls of reduced Velouté sauce; stir these together over the fire until well mixed, then add the yolks of four eggs, and spread the preparation out in a square, about half an inch thick, upon an earthen dish; when this has become cold, stamp the Polpettes out with a circular tin-cutter about an inch and a half in ‘diameter ; bread-crumb them twice in the usual manner, place them in @ sautapan with some clarified butter, and fry them of a light colour over a brisk fire; when done, drain them upon a napkin, dish them up in double circular rows, pour some brown Italian sauce under them, and serve. ‘Note.—Besides the foregoing methods of dressing rabbits for entrées, they may also be served in almost every variety of form in which chickens or fowls (previously cut up into small jomts) are directed to be prepared ; purées, minces, salpicons, and every kind of quenelles and boudins, may also be made with rabbits; for which consult those articles in that part of the work treating of entrées ot chickens and fowls, and proceed in the same manner. ENTREES OF HARE, COMPRISING Fillets of Hare, larded, with Poivrade Sauce. Cutlets of Hare, d [ Anciénne. “ a la Chasseur. Scollops of Hare, with Fine-herbs. R ad P Allemande. 7 a la Periqueux. Cutlets of Hare, d la Portuguaise. Civet of Hare, with Mushrooms. 1063. FILLETS OF HARE LARDED, WITH POIVRADE SAUCE. Ir the hares used for this purpose are full grown, three will suffice ; they must be filleted, and each fillet split into halves ; theseshould be trimmed and larded, and placed in a curve at the bottom of a sautapan lined with thin layers of fat bacon. Moisten with some mirepoix (No. 236), place around of buttered paper upon the fillets, and set them in the oven to simmer for twenty minutes, frequently basting them with their own liquor; when they are nearly done, remove the paper, nad the se and glaze it; drain the fillets upon a napkin, trim and dis them up in a close circle, pour some Poivrade, Tomata, or Italian sauce under them, and serve. 4 CUTLETS OF HARE. 327 Note.—These fillets may also be garnished in the same way as directed for fillets of rabbits. 1064. FILLETS OF HARES, A LA CHASSEUR. PrEPaxs the fillets and place them in a sautapan as directed in the foregoing case. Use the carcasses for making some extract, or fumet, reserve the hind-quarters, run them on a large iron skewer, place them on a large sheet of paper thickly buttered, season with pepper and.salt, and strew over them some thinly-sliced carrot and onion, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme; wrap the paper round the legs, and fasten the skewer on the spit with string, then roast them before the fire for about half-an-hour, basting them frequently.. When done, pare off all the meat, chop it very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a pat of butter and a spoonful of Hspagnole sauce; rub it through a fine wire sieve or a tammy, and put the purée intoa small stewpan. When about to send to table, braize and glaze the fillets as directed in the foregoing case, dish them up in a.close circle, fill the centre with the purée, pour round the base of the entrée, and mask the purée with some bright Hspagnole sauce worked with the fumet ; glaze the larding of the fillets, and serve. 1065. FILLETS OF HARE, A L’ALLEMANDE. _ Jarp the fillets asin the foregoing cases, steep them in some mari- nade (No. 234) for six hours at least; drain and put them in a sau- tapan lined with thin layers of fat bacon, moisten with some wine mrepoix, braize and glaze them in the usual manner, and when done, dish them up in a close circle ; fill the centre with large prunes stewed. in red wine with a small stick of cinnamon, pour some cherry sauce ala Victoria (No. 64) round the base, place a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312) round the entrée, and serve. 1066. CUTLETS OF HARE, A LA PORTUGUAISE. Friunr three hares, cut each fillet across into halves, flatten these slightly with a bat, trim them into the shape of cutlets, and scrape some of the ribs to resemble cutlet-bones ; season witha little pepper and salt, mask them over with a thin coating of Allemande sauce, and bread-crumb the cutlets twice; once dipped in beaten egg, and afterwards sprinkled with clarified butter; pat them gently into shape, and place them in a sautapan with clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets of a light colour, drain, glaze and dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with yams previously cut into the form of olives, and fried in butter; pour some Portu- guese sauce (No. 59) round the base, and serve. 1067. CUTLETS OF HARE, A L’ANCIENNE. These must be trimmed as directed in the foregoing case, and placed in a buttered sautapan without being bread-crumbed; then season with pepper and salt, pour a little clarified butter over-them, and with half the hind-quarters make some purée in the usual way— keeping this rather thick. Use the carcasses to make some fumet with, to be worked into some spagnole sauce for the entrée. Cut as many créutons of bread as there are cutlets, and of thé same shape ; draw the point of a small knife round the inside of the edge of the créutons, and when they are fried of a light colour, remove the inner 328 ENTREES OF HARE. piece, fill the cavities of the créutons with the purée, and place them 19 a sautape7. with a round of buttered paper upon them. Just before dinner-time, simmer the cutlets over a gentle fire for about five mi- autes, turn them over when done on the under side, and allow them to remain two minutes longer ; pour off the butter, add alittle glaze and a spoonful of the sauce, toss them in this, ana dish them up in a close eircle ; placing one of the créutons (previously warmed) in between each cutlet; fill the centre with scollops of the kidneys and small fillets, truffles and mushrooms tossed in a little of the sauce, pour the gauce round the base of the enérée, and serve. 1068. SCOLLOPS OF HARE, WITH FINE-HERBS. Cur the fillets of three hares into scollops, flatten them slightly with the handle of a knife dipped in water, trim them neatly and place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and fry them on both sides over a brisk fire for about five mi- nutes ; pour off the butter, add some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14) and half a pottle of mushrooms; simmer the scollops over the fire for two minutes, pile them up in the centre of the dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish round with croquettes, made with the hind-quarters, as in No. 1020, and serve. 1069. SCOLLOPS OF HARE, A LA PERIGUEUX. Prepare the scollops and fry them as directed in the foregoing case; pour off the butter, add some Périgueux sauce (No. 23) and some scollops of truffles; simmer them over the stove-fire for three minutes, dish them up in the form of a dome, garnish round with eroquettes in the form of pears, and serve. Note.—Scollops of hares may also be finished with the following sauces :—Poivrade, Italian, Tomata, Hspagnole, and Bourguignotte ; in either case scollops of truffles, tongue, or mushrooms, may be added. Mbt 1070. CIVET OF HARE, WITH MUSHROOMS. Cur the hare into small jomts, then parboil one pound of streaky bacon, and cut it into square pieces the size of small walnuts; fry these in a stewpan until they acquire a light-brown colour, then take them out on a plate, and fry the pieces of hare brown also. Next, shake a handful of flour over them, and toss them over the fire for three minutes ; add the fried bacon, a pottle of mushrooms, an onion stuck with four cloves, a carrot and a garnished faggot of parsley; season with pepper and salt, moisten with a pint of port wine, anda quart of good broth, stir the civet on the fire till it boils, and then remove it to the side that it may clarify itself by gentle ebullition. Fry half a pint of button onions in a small stewpan with a little bute ter, for five minutes, and when the czvet has boiled about half an hour, throw these in ; as soon as the pieces of hare become tender, remove the scum and grease from the surface, take out the onion, carrot, and faggot; and if there appear to be too much sauce, pour it into another stewpan, and reduce it by boiling, stirring it with a wooden spoon to prevent its burning, then pass it through a tammy upon the civet. Pile up the pieces of hare in the centre of the dish, and gar- wish round with the mushrooms, &c.; pour the sauce over it, place a : : ENTREES OF PHEASANTS. 329 dozen créutons of fried bread cut in the shape of a heart round the base, and serve. ~ _ Luvezers, when cut up in small joints, may be dressed in the cane manner as rabbits; which see. ENTREES OF PHEASANTS, COMPRISING Salmis of Pheasant, ¢ la Bourguignotte. Scollops of Pheasant, d Ja Richelieu. - d la Bresilienne. > a la Victoria. a8 @ la Paysanne, Le a la Palerme, A d la Chasseur. 1071. SALMIS OF PHEASANT, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Roast the pheasant, let it become cold, and then cut it up as follows :—First, remove the legs, then cut off the fillets with the pinion- bones adhering thereto, separate the breast from the back, trim them both, cut them crosswise into halves, and place all the pieces in a stew- an. Next, chop up the trimmings and put them into a stewpan with three shalots sliced up, a small bay-leaf and sprig of thyme, a few pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a pat of butter; fry these over a stove-fire until they are slightly browned, moisten them with half a pint of Claret or Burgundy, and set the whole to boil upon the stove until reduced to half the quantity; then add half a pint of white con- sommé, and after the fumet has simmered by the side of the stove for a quarter of an hour, pass it through a sieve into a stewpan containing suficient Lspagnole sauce for the entrée, and work it in the usual ‘manner (by clarifying and reducing it), then pass it through a tammy into a basin. Pour one-third of the sauce over the pheasant, and put the remainder into a bain-marie containing some button-mushrooms, small truffles, glazed button-onions, and about twenty very small que- nelles. When about to send to table, warm the members of pheasant without allowing them to boil; dish them up, first placing the pieces of back, then the legs, and the fillets, surmounting the whole with the breast; garnish the salmis with the ragout disposed in groups round the base, place some heart-shaped crdéutons between these, pour the remainder of the sauce over the entrée, and serve. 1072. SALMIS OF PHEASANT, A LA BRESILIENNE.* Roast the pheasant, and afterwards cut it up into small joints as in the foregoing case. Make a little farce with four pheasants’ livers (or these failing, fowls’ livers may be substituted), and use this to fill eight heart-shaped créutons of fried bread. Chop the trimmings, and put them into a stewpan with two cloves of garlic, some chopved mushrooms, a blade of mace, bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, twelve pepper- corns, and a tea-spoonful of the powder of sweet red pimento, four ounces of lean ham, and a good table-spoonful of salad oil; fry these over a moderate stove-fire for five minutes, then add six ripe tomatas, and after these ingredients have been stirred over the fire until the ® Note. The sweet red pimento, or Spanish pepper, is imported by CRossr and BLACK WELL, Soho Square. v 4 - 330 ENTREES OF PHEASANTS. tomatas are melted, pour in half a tumblerful of Madeira; boul this down to half its quantity, add half a pint of consommé, allow the fumet to boil gently for twenty minutes, and pass it through a tammy with pressure into a stewpan containing a small ladleful of Hspagnole sauce ; work this in the usual manner and pass it through the tammy into a basin; add one-third to the pieces of pheasant, and pour the remainder into a bain-marie containing some button-mushrooms and small truffles. Dish up the pheasant as usual, place the créutons (warmed in the oven and glazed), round the salmis, garnish with the ragout and sauce, and serve. 1073. SALMIS OF PHEASANTS, A LA PAYSANNE. Roast the pheasant, just before dinner, with some créutons of toast placed under it, cut it up into small joints and dish them up im- mediately ; place the créutons of toast round the salmts, and pour the following sauce over it :—Chop three shalots, some parsley and mush- rooms, put these into a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of oil, thyme and bay-leaf, and a little Cayenne pte fry these ingredients over a moderate fire for five minutes, add two glasses of white wine, a small piece of glaze and half a pint of good consommé ; boil the sauce briskly until reduced to half its original quantity, then add the juice of half a lemon, and use it as directed. 1074. SALMIS OF PHEASANT, A LA CHASSEUR, Roast two young hen-pheasants, cut them up as usual, and put the fillets, the pieces of the breasts and backs, into a stewpan; using the legs to make some purée with. Prepare the salmis sauce (No. 108), with four shalots and some parsley, chopped and parboiled, which are to be added, together with the juice of half a lemon when sending to table. Warm the salmts in the sauce, dish it up in a pyramidal form, garnish it round with a dozen small créustades of fried, bread, about a inch and a half high, and the same in diameter, filled with the purée ; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve. 1075. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA RICHELIEU. FrIniEt two pheasants, pare away the sinews without trimming, and simmer the fillets in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt; then cut them into scollops, and put these into a stewpan with some Richelieu ragout (No. 207). Just before sending to table, warm the scollops without letting them boil; dish them up, garnish round with croquettes made with the legs, and serve. - 1076. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA VICTORIA. FILLET two young pheasants, and prepare the scollops as. directed in the foregoing case. Make some purée with the legs; this must be kept stiff, and mixed with one third of its quantity of reduced Alz- mande, then spread out half an inch in thickness upon a dish, and when cold, cut into small heart-shaped croquettes and bread-crumbed in the usual manner. Use the carcasses to make some essences with, which, after being reduced to glaze, must be mixed with some Supréme sauce (No. 38), and poured on the scollops. Ten minutes before sending to table, fry the croquettes of purée, dish up the scollops im the form of a dome, piace the croquettes in a close circle round the entrée, and serve. ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, 331 1077. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA PALERME. PREPARE some scollops with the fillets of two hen-pheasants, use the legs to make some purée with (No. 1062), finish some Poivrade sauce (No. 29) with the essence e from the carcasses, and pour this to the scollops, and add to these some scolloped tongue, mush- rooms, and truffles. Prepare also a dozen small créustades of nouilles (No. 1266), fry them of a light-yellow colour, empty them, and fill them with the purée; dish up the scollops, place the créustades round - the entrée, and serve. Note—Fillets of full-grown pheasants are too large to dress for entrées ; but when young pheasants are used for such a purpose, the fillets may be treated according to the various methods directed for dressing fillets of fowls. For the preparation of boudins and quenelles of pheasant, follow the directions given for making boudins and quenelles of fowl. ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, COMPRISING Salmis of Partridges, d la Financiere. Fillets of Partridges, @ ?’ Anciénne, oe a la Provengale. ss a la Parisiénne. = a la Perigord. Scollops of Partridges, with Truffles. ee: with Mushrooms, &c. oe with Fine-herbs, in Fillets of Partridges, d ta Lucullus. cases. 4 a@ la Prince Albert. 1078. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA FINANCIERE. Truss three partridges, run them upon an iron skewer, wrap them round with a large sheet of buttered paper, fasten the skewer upon a spit with string, and roast the partridges before a moderate fire for about five-and-twenty minutes; then take them up place them on their breast in a dish, without removing the paper, and when cold, cut them up into small joints: first taking off the legs, next the fillets with the pinion-bones left on, then dividing the breast and back, and trimming these whole; place these joints in a stewpan, beginning with the pieces of breasts, the fillets, and then the legs and back. Make some essence with the trimmings, to be used for working the sauce with; pour a little of tk.is to the pieces of partridges, and warm them without boiling; dish them up with the inferior joints under, garnish the salmis with a Financiere ragout (No. 188) finished with the essence, place a dozen heart-shaped créutons of fried bread round the entrée, and serve. 1079. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PROVENCALE. Roast, cut up, and trim the partridges as in the foregoing case , chop the trimmings, and put them into a small stewpan with three shalots, a clove of garlic, bay-leaf and thyme, a few pepper-corns, and a small blade of mace, two ounces of chopped lean of ham, and two table-spoonfuls of salad oil; fry these ingredients over a moderate fire 332 ' ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES. for five minutes, and then add half a pint of French white wine. Boil this until reduced to half its original quantity, then add half a pint of good consommé and a ladleful of Lspagnole sauce (No. 3), stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, then remove it to the side to clarify by gentle ebullition ; after a quarter of an hour’s simmering, remove the grease and scum, pass the same through a tammy, and boil it down over a brisk stove-fire; then incorporate a small piece of anchovy butter and the juice of half a lemon, and pass it agam through a tammy into a basin ; pour one-third to the partridges, and put the remainder into a bain-marie containing some scollops of truffles and mushrooms. When about to send to table, warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up in the usual order, mask it with the ragout and sauce, garnish round with glazed créutons, and serve. 1080. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PERIGORD. PREPARE the partridges as before directed; chop the trimmings and use them to make the sauce as directed in No. 1078. Cut out a dozen small heart-shaped créutons of bread about a quarter of an inch thick, make an incision round the inside of the edges, fry them in butter, empty them, and then fill the cavities with some purée of truffles (No. 121); warm the salmis with a little of the sauce, and dish it up so as to form a well in the centre; place six of the créutons round the top of the enérée, fill the centre with small quenelles of partridges, pour the sauce over the salmis, garnish the base with the remainder of the créutons, and serve. 1081. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH MUSHROOMS. Roasz and. trim the partridges as usual, use the trimmings to make the sauce (No. 10), then pour it to the partridges, and add some button-mushrooms or truffles; warm the salmis, dish it up jn a pyra- midal form, pour the sauce over it, garnish with créutons, and serve. 1082. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA LUCULLUS. Fittt four young partridges, trim the large fillets and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter ; season with a little salt, and place a round of buttered paper upon them; remove the sinew from the minion fillets without tearing them, trim them neatly, and place them in a small sautapan spread with butter; dip a soft paste-brush in some beaten white of egg, and pass it over their surface, and then decorate them with black truffles. After this is completed, mask them with clarified butter, and place some very thin layers of fat bacon upon them. Use the carcasses to make some fumet, which must be boiled down to half glaze, and part of it incorporated with some white purée of mushrooms * (No. 122); place the fillets on the stove-fire for five minutes, then turn them over, and when done on both sides, without having acquired any colour, drain off the butter add a little of the purée of mushrooms, toss the fillets over the fire for a minute, and dish them up with a heart-shaped créuton of fried bread between each; sauce the fillets with the purée, place the decorated fillets (previously simmered in the oven for about five minutes) across the crdutons, fill the centre with scollops of truffles, pour the sauce or purée round the base, and serve. * This purée must be of the consistency and colour of Supréme sauce, SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES. onan 1083. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PRINCE ALBERT. Fitter four young red-legged partridges, leaving the pinion bones on the fillets; trim these neatly, lard them closely, and place them in a sautapan lined with thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with some white-wine mirepoix (No. 236), place a round of paper upon them, and braize the fillets over a moderate fire or in the oven, and when they are nearly done, glaze them nicely. Dish them up in a close circle, with a decorated minion fillet between each; fill the centre with a ragout of crayfish-tails tossed in a little partridge glaze with some lobster coral; pour some Allemande sauce mixed with some fumet of partridges round the entrée, and serve. 1084. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A L’ANCIENNE. Run an iron skewer through four young partridges, place them on a double sheet of thickly-buttered paper, cover them with some reduced mirepoix (No. 236), with the vegetables left in it; wrap the paper round, fasten them on a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about half an hour ; then, take them up on a dish, and set them to cool without removing the paper. Cut the fillets out of the partridges, remove the skins, and trim them neatly without waste ; place them in a sautapan with a little half-glaze made with the carcasses. Make some purée with the meat from the legs, and use the gravy that runs from the birds after roasting, to moisten it with. Warm the fillets without boiling, dish them up with a heart-shaped créuton of fried bread between each, fill the centre with the purée, pour some salmis sauce (No. 11) over the entrée, and serve. : 1085. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PARISIENNE. Tri the fillets of four young partridges, mask them over with a coating of Allemande sauce (No. 7), dip them in beaten eggs, and bread- erumb them; then, sprinkle them over with clarified butter, and bread- crumb them again; pat them gently into shape, and place them in circular order in a sautapan with some clarified butter. Contises the minion fillets with black truffles, lay them in a buttered sautapan in the form of crescents, and cover them with clarified butter. Fry the large fillets of a bright-yellow colour, drain them on a napkin, glaze them slightly, and dish them up with a circular scollop of red tongue between each; fill the centre with some Parisian ragout (No. 208), place the minion fillets round this, pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. 1086. SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH TRUFFLES. Fruiet the partridges, remove the sinews from the fillets and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter; season with a little salt, and simmer them in the oven or over a stove-fire for five minutes ° then, turn them over, and when done on both sides, drain them upon a napkin and cut them into scollops; place these in a stewpan with: four ounces ‘of truffles (previously simmered with a small piece of butter and glaze), and to these add some Espagnole sauce worked with a fumet made from the carcasses. Warm the scollops without boiling, dish them up in the form of a dome, garnish round with some croquettes made with the legs; or, the minion fillets may be reserved, 334 ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES. and when decorated or fried in batter, used to place round the scollops. 1087. SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES, IN CASES. Finuer three young partridges, cut the fillets into small scollops, and place them neatly in a large sautapan with two small pats of very fresh butter, merely melted in the sautapan without being clarified ; season with chia pis ic fo salt, and nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, parsley, truffles, and two shalots; simmer the scollops briskly over the stove-fire, and when done, add two large gravy-spoonfuls of Hspagnole sauce worked with some fumet or extract (made from the carcasses), and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together over the fire for a few minutes, and fill eight or ten small plaited circular, or heart- shaped, paper cases that have been oiled and baked in the oven for five minutes to make the paper firmer. Place the cases upon a baking-sheet lined with clean paper, and lay a thin circular layer of fat bacon upon each case. ‘Twenty minutes before sending to table, put the vases of scollops in the oven to be warmed through, then dish them up, pour a little of the same sauce in each, and serve. Note.—Scollops of partridges may be dressed as directed for scollops of pheasants; fillets may also be served in every variety of form directed for the treatment of fillets of fowls. 1088. CUTLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A L’ALGERIENNE. Sprit four young partridges into ‘halves; remove the ‘breast and backbones, and pass the legs through the skin of the thighs, so as to give them the form of cutlets; trim them without waste, and place them in circular order in a sautapan with two pats of fresh butter simply melted; season with mignionette-pepper, salt, and a little nut- meg, and then finish them as directed for spring chickens, d la Algériénne (No. 981). | 1089. CUTLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA MAITRE D HOTEL, Prepare these as in the foregoing case, then mask them with d’ Uzelles sauce (No. 16), bread-crumb them twice, in the usual man- ner, pat them into shape, and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter; fry them of a bright yellow colour, drain them upon a sheet of paper, glaze them slightly, and dish up; pour some Maitre-d’ Hotel sauce (No. 43), mixed with a piece of partridge glaze, under them, and serve. Note.—Cutlets of young partridges may also be dressed ¢ .a Pompa- dour, d la Maréchale, or a la Valengay (see No. 997). 1090. PUREE OF PARTRIDGES, WITH PLOVER’S EGGS. Roast the partridges, remove the skin, pare off all the meat, and use the bones to make some fumet or extract (No. 218) ; chop the meat quite fine, pound it in a mortar with a pat of butter and a spoonful of sauce, and rub this through a tammy or a very fine wire sieve. Put the purée into a stewpan, add some of the fumet, (boiled down to glaze, ) and, if necessary, a little Allemande or Béchamel sauce; warm the purée with care, to prevent it from becoming rough, which would be the case ' BOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES. | 339 if allowed to boil; dish it up in a conical form, place some pcached eggs or plover’s eggs (if in season), round the base, with a scollop of red tongue cut in the form of a cock’s-comb between each ege; pour a little bright Hspagnole sauce over the purée without masking the eggs, and serve. | 1091. MINCED PARTRIDGES, WITH POACHED EGGS. Tus entrée is mostly served when there happens to be any roast partridges or pheasants in reserve from a previous day’s dinner: the same remark may in some degree apply to salmis: although it must be admitted that a salmis made with fresh-roasted game is preferable. Cut the meat from the birds, either into shreds, or very small thin scollops or dice; add a little pepper and salt, and as much salmis, Allemande, Béchamel, or Supréme sauce, as will suffice to moisten the mince; some truffles, mushroons or red tongue, cut up in the same manner, may also be added if approved of. Warm the mince, dish it up, garnish it round with poached eggs, or potato croquettes, and serve. ~BOUDINS, QUENELLES, AND SOUFFLES OF PARTRIDGES, COMPRISING Boudins of Partridges, d la @ Orsay. Crépinettes of Partridges, d la d’ Estaing. as a la Printaniére, Soufflés » Gla Royale. 1092. BOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA D’ORSAY. . PREPARE some quenelle force-meat with the fillets of three partridges (No. 243). ‘Take two ounces of French truffles, about the same pro- portion of mushrooms, red tongue, and dressed calf’s-udder; cut all these into even-shaped and very small dice, and add them together witha large spoonful of purée of mushrooms (No. 122) to the force- meat; mix thoroughly, and mould this preparation into three oblong Soudins, about six inches in length and two inches square: place these upon similar-sized pieces of buttered paper laid on a stewpan-lid, and slip them off into a stewpan containing some boiling broth; allow them merely to simmer gently by the side of the stove-fire for about twenty minutes, and when done through, drain them upon a napkin, trim them square, mask them over with some reduced Supréme sauce place three larded minion fillets across each boudin, garnish the entrée with a ragout d la Parisiénne (No. 208), and serve. 1093. BOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PRINTANIERE. PREPARE some force-meat with the fillets of three partridges (No. 243), and mould this into three boudins, as directed in the foregoing ease, poach them in the same manner, and when done, mask them with some Printaniére sauce (No. 21) mixed with some partridge glaze: place a decorated minion fillet at each end of the boudins, and a larded lamb’s-sweetbread in the centre of these; fill the well of the 336 ENTREES OF WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. entrée with some prawns’ tails tossed in a little glaze and lobster coral, pour some Printaniére sauce round the base, and serve, 1094. CREPINETTES OF PARTRIDGES, A LA D’ESTAING. To the quantity of quenelle force-meat named in the foregoing article, add half that proportion of fat bacon (previously boiled), and four ounces of French truffles, both cut into small dice, also a table- spoonful of Hspagnole, and a similar quantity of partridge glaze (in a liquid state), and season with a little cayenne; mix well together, and then drop this preparation in table-spoonfuls upon a slab or table, over which some flour has been previously sprinkled; mould the crépinettes into the form of so many eggs, and wrap each of these in a proportionate-sized piece of pig’s-caul ; flatten them slightly by press- ing upon them with the fingers, dip them in clarified butter, and fry them over a brisk stove-fire to a light colour; drain them upon ai napkin, dish them up in a close circle, pour some half-glaze of var- tridges mixed with a small pat of butter, and the juice of half a iemon, and serve. | 1095. SOUFFLES OF PARTRIDGES, A LA ROYALE. PREPARE some purée of partridges (No. 1090), warm it, then add five yolks of eggs, whisk the five whites and mix them in lightly also. Fill a dozen small plaited fancy-paper cases with this preparation, pass a soft paste-brush dipped in half glaze over their surfaces, put them on a baking-sheet, and bake them in a moderately-heated oven for about twenty minutes ; then dish them up on a napkin, and serve. These sougiés may be served in lieu of patties, after the fish. Note.—Partridges dressed whole are also served for entrées, for which see Removes (No. 724). ENTREES OF WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES, COMPRISING Woodcocks, ¢ la Financiére. Salmis of Woodcocks, é la Minute. as a la Perigord. és a la Bourguignotte. Fillets of Woodcocks, d ? Anciénne. e ad la Bordelaise, He a la Périgueux. 1096. woopcocks, A LA FINANCIERE. Truss three woodcocks in the usual way, and lard the breasts closely ; place them in a stewpan lined at the bottom with thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with some wine mirepoiz (No. 2386), place a round of buttered paper upon them, cover with the lid containing live embers of charcoal, and set them to braize gently for about three- quarters of an hour over a moderate fire, or in the oven; frequently basting them with their own liquor. When the birds are nearly dono, remove the lid and paper, to dry the larding for a minute or so, then glaze the woodcocks, and drain them upon a plate; remove the strings, and place them in the dish with their backs resting upright against a FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS. SOF : créustade of fried bread, about four inches high, and cut in an angular form ; place a decorated quenelle between each woodcock, a large truffle on the top of the créustade, and a border of white cocks’-combs round this; garnish the entrée with a Financiére ragout (No. 188), glaze the larding, and serve. ' 1097. woopcocKs, A LA PERIGORD. Draw three fine fat woodcocks, reserving the livers and trail; stuff them with the usual preparation of truffles (No. 660), and truss them as for roasting; then, run an iron skewer through the birds, and place them upon a double sheet of paper thickly spread with butter; cover them with some reduced mirepoix (No. 236), having the vegetables left in it; wrap the paper round them and secure it with string; tie the woodcocks both ends upon a spit, and roast them before a rather brisk fire, for about three-quarters of an hour: they must then be taken off the spit, and dished up in the form of an angle; fill the centre with small quenelles, pour some Périgueux sauce (Ne o. 23) over the woodcocks, place a dozen créutons round the entrée, and serve. : The above-named créutons are thus prepared :—Fry the trail, &c., in a small stewpan with a little butter, a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, parsley, and half a shalot; season with pepper, salt and autmeg, and then add a table-spoonful of reduced Lspagnole sauce fNo. 3): rub this through a tammy, and spread it upon twelve neart-shaped crduions of fried bread. ‘These créutons should be placed in the oven for three minutes, to warm them. 1098. FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS, A L’ANCIENNE. SEE “ Fillets of Partridges’’ (No. 1084). Add the trail to the legs of the woodcocks; prepare an essence with the carcasses, and use this to work the sauce; in all other respects proceed in the same manner. : 1099. FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA PERIGUEUX. Trim the fillets of three woodcocks, using the under or minion fillets to form three more, by patting them together with the handle of a knife; place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt. Prepare some farce with the trail, as in No. 1097, and spread it upon as many créutons of fried bread as there are fillets. Simmer the fillets over the fire without allowing them to acquire any colour; drain off the butter, then add a little of the Périgueux sauce (No 23), worked with the essence made from the carcasses, toss the fillets in this, and dish them up in a close circle round a small créustade of fried bread, cut in the form of a vase; place one of the créutons (previously warmed in the oven for three minutes) between each fillet; fill the créustade with some purée of truffles (No. 121), pour the Périgueux sauce over the fillets, and serve. 1100. SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA MINUTE. Roast three woodcocks just before dinner-time ; cut them up into small joints in the usual manner, reserving the trail, which must be made into a purée and spread upon a dozen small neart-shaped créu- Z 338 ENTREES OF WILD FOWL. tons. Prepare the sauce as directed in No. 11, and add it to the woodcocks. Warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up in.a pyra- midal form, and place the créutons round the base; add a dessert- spoonful of chopped and boiled parsley to the sauce, pour it over the entrée, and serve. 1101. SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Roast the woodcocks, cut them up, and prepare the créutons as in the foregoing case; make an essence with the trimmings, and add this to a Bourguignotie ragout (No. 195). Warm the salmis with a sittle of the sauce, dish it up, garnish with the ragout and sauce, place the créutons round the base, and serve. 1102. SALMIS OF SNIPES, A LA BORDELAISE. Roast six fat snipes, split them into halves, and prepare a dozen créutons with the trail, as directed in No. 1097; dish up the snipes in double circular rows, first placing a row of créutons, then six pieces of sates upon these, and again the créutons, closing with the remainder of the snipes: fill the centre with a ragout of button- mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles, pour some Bordelaise sauce (No. 57) over the entrée, and serve. ENTREES OF WILD FOWL, COMPRISING Salmis of Wild Duck. Fillets of Widgeon, ¢ fa Provengale. »» | Widgeon, or Teal. Widgeons, a ? Américatne, Fillets of Widgeon, d la Bigarrade. Fillets of Teal, dU’ Anglatse. 1103. SALMIS OF WILD DUCK, Roast a wild duck before a brisk fire, for about five-and-twenty minutes, so that it may retain its gravy; place it on its breast ina dish to get cool; then, cut it up into small joints—comprising two fillets, two legs with the breast and back, each cut into two pieces— and place the whole ina stewpan. Put the trimmings into a stew- pan with half a pint of red wine, four shalots, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf; the rind of an orange, free from pith, the pulp of a lemon, and a little cayenne; boil these down to half their original quantity ; then add a small ladleful of worked Espaynole sauce (No. 3), allow the sauce to boil, skim it, and pass it through a tammy on to the pieces of wild duck: When about to send to table, warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up, pour the sauce over it, garnish the entrée with eight heart-shaped créutons of fried bread, nicely glazed, and serve. 1104. SALMIS OF WIDGEON, OR TEAL. Truss three of these for roasting, place them in an earthen dish, and strew about them thinly-sliced carrot and onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; season with mignionette-pepper, a little aN the juice of a ‘emon, anda gill of salad oil, and allow them to steep in this marinade ae FILLETS OF WILD FOWL. 3389 for twelve hours (time permitting), frequently turning them over, that they may become thoroughly impregnated with its flavour. When about to dress the widgeon, run them upon an iron skewer, placing the vegetables, &c., on their breasts ; wrap them round with two sheets of oiled paper, fastened on with string ; tie them on the spit at both ends, and roast them before-a brisk fire for a space of time proportionate to their size, in comparison to wild ducks, observing that they must be roasted with the gravy in them ; allow them to cool, cut them in the ordinary way for salmis, use the trimmings and the gravy that bas run from the wild fowl into the dish, to make the sauce with, which is to be prepared as directed in No. 28. Pour the sauce when finished on to the pieces of wild fowl, adding some - button-mushrooms; warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up in a pyramidal form, garnish with créutons, pour the sauce over it, and serve. - 1105. FILLETS OF WILD DUCKS, WIDGEON, OR TEAL, A LA BIGARRADE. PrEPazeE these, in the first instance, as directed in the foregomg article; spit them, and cover the breasts with their seasoning, wrap them up securely with paper, and roast them before a brisk fire; when nearly done, remove the paper, &c., and set them closer to the fire, that they may acquire a light-brown colour. Take them up, and fillet them, leaving the pinion-bones or, score, trim, and dish them, up at once, placing a créuton between each fillet; add the gravy that runs from the wild fowl to some Bigarrade sauce (No. 33), pour this over the fillets, and serve. 1106. FILLETS OF WILD FOWL, A LA PROVENCALE. PREPARE the fillets as above, dish them up in the same manner, pour some Provengale sauce (No. 25), to which has been added a giass of Madeira, over the entrée, and serve. 1107. WIDGEON, A L’AMERICAINE. Roast these quite-plain, basting them frequently with fresh butter while roasting: when done, cut them up into small joints, and place these in a stewpan with half a pound of red-currant jelly, the juice of a lemon, and two glasses of port wine; allow the whole to simmer gently over a moderate stove-fire for ten minutes; dish up the entrée with fried créutons round it, pour the sauce over the widgeon, and serve. 1108. FILLETS OF TEAL, A L’ ANGLAISE. Roast the teal quite plain; when done, cut the fillets out, score them across, and dish them up with créutons of fried bread ; pour some essence of orange (No. 171) over the fillets, and serve. ENTREES OF ORTOLANS AND WHEATEARS COMPRISING Qrtolans, in Cases, with Madeira sauce. Wheatears, in Cases, with Fine-herbs. » in Croustades, a la Provengale, 1109. ORTOLANS IN CASES, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE. THEsE very delicious birds are a great rarity in England; they are in season in September, and are to be had only of first-rate poulterers, who mostly import them from Belgium. Cut four fat livers of fowls, and an equal quantity of fat bacon, into square pieces; first fry the bacon in a sautapan over a brisk fire, then add the livers, with a table-spoonful of fine-herbs, and season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg; when all this is fried brown, add to it half its quantity of panada (No. 239), and pound the whole together in a mortar until well mixed; add three yolks of eggs, then mix the above well together by pounding, and take the farce up into a basin. Next, cut eight small oval créustades of bread, just large enough to hold an ortolan each, making a slight incision round the inside of the edge of each créustade, and fry them in butter, of a light colour; remove the inside crumb, line them with a thin coating of the farce, place an ortolan in each, then put them on a baking-sheet with. a little oil, and bake them in the oven. When they are done, glaze and dish them up, pour over them some Madeira sauce (No. 8) mixed with a small pat of anchovy-butter, and the juice of half a lemon, then serve. 1110. ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADES, A LA PROVENCALE. Puace the ortolans in a sautapan with three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, a bruised clove of garlic, some chopped truffles, mushrooms, and parsley ; season with mignionette-pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; fry them in this over a brisk fire for about ten minutes, adding a small piece of glaze and a spoonful of Hspagnole sauce when done; toss the whole together, and then put the ortolans into small oval créustades of bread, fried in oil. Pour the fine-herbs over them, and place them upon a baking-sheet in the oven for about a quarter of an hour, that they may acquire a bright light-brown colour; then, dish them up, pour some Provengale sauce (No. 25) over them, ave serve. 1111. WHEATEARS IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS. THESE are in season in August, and are seldom exposed for sale in the London markets: they are more plentiful at Brighton, being chiefly caught in that neighbourhood: wheatears are not more than two-thirds of the size of larks, but when in good condition, are so unctuous as to resemble small lumps of butter, and are esteemed by epicures as very choice eating. Cut the. legs off the wheatears, chop some truffles, mushrooms, and one shalot, and fry these in a sautapan with two pats of butter ; season with pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg ; then add a spoonful of sauce, two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, a small ENTREES OF FISH. 341 piece of anchovy-butter, and a little glaze; place two wheatears in each ease (previously oiled and baked. to stiffen the paper), pour the sauce over them, and bake them in the oven upon a sautapan for about a Sted of an hour; pour a little bright Zspagnole sauce over them, and serve. FISH ENTREES, COMPRISING Boudins of Lobster, a la Cardinal. Fillets of Soles, a la Dieppoise. Quenelles . ,, | Gla Vertpré. BA a la Maitre-d’ Héied. Boudins of Whitings, 4 la Supréme. 7 d la Vénitiénne. Quenelles ee a la Princesse. Fe a la Provengale, Boudins of Salmon, a /’Jtalienne. * al’ Horly, Quenelles a d la Ravigotte. “fe a la Royale. Blanquette of Sturgeon. Paupiettes of Soles, é la Cardinal. Scollops of Sturgeon, with Fine-herbs. Dolphins of Whitings, @ la Parisienne. Cutlets je a la Bourguignotie. Fillets of Whiting, &c. Fillets of Salmon, a 1? Aurore. Fillets of Trout, a la Chevaliere. oe a la Parisienne. oe a la Régence. ca a la Maintenon, Epigramme of Fillets of Trout. Fillets of Turbot. Fillets of Perch, &c. Fillets of Gurnet, with Caper Sauce. ‘4, of Mackerel. 1112. BOUDINS OF LOBSTER, A LA CARDINAL. Cuor the meat of two good-sized lobsters very fine, put this into a mortar with the pith, and part of the coral, reserving the remainder for the sauce ; add two-thirds of its proportion of butter, pound the whole thoroughly, and rub the produce through a fine wire sieve upon a plate ; put the lobster back in the mortar with half its quantity of Panada (No. 239), and pound these until well mixed ; add three yolks of eggs, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, mix thoroughly by pounding, add one whole egg, and then try the force-meat, by poaching a small portion of it im boiling water; when done, cut it through the middle, and if the inside presents a smooth compact surface, take the force- meat up into a basin, but if it appears soft and rough, add a little more Panada, and another egg; divide the force-meat into three parts, roll these upon a slab with a little flour into oblong boudins, about six inches in length by two inches square; poach them with boiling water in a deep sautapan by the stove-fire, for about twenty minutes, turning them over carefully when done on one side; drain them upon a napkin, trim the sides, and mask them with some Cardinal sauce (No. 48); place across them some small fillets of soles, contisés with truffles, and dish them. up in a triangular form; fill the centre with a ragout d la Cardinal (No. 200), and serve. 1113. QUENELLES OF LOBSTER, A LA VERTPRE. Moutp eighteen table-spoonfuls of quenelles with some lobster force - meat prepared as directed in the foregoing case; place them in cir- cular order, in a sautapan spread with butter, and poach them with boiling water, which must be poured upon a stewpan-cover held in a sloping direction against the side of the sautapan; put a round of 7S o 342 — ENTREES OF FISH. buttered paper over the quenelles, and set them to simmer gently by the side of a stove-fire for about twenty minutes. When done, drain them upon a napkin, stick some thick pieces of the antennzx, or horns, of the lobsters in one end of the quenelles, dish them up in close circular order, pour some Vertpré sauce (No. 21) over them, fill the centre with picked prawns’-tails (previously warmed in a little glaze and lobster coral), and serve. 1114. BOUDINS OF WHITINGS, A LA SUPREME. Pounp the fillets of four skinned whitings, and rub them through a fica wire sieve ; put the produce in a mortar, with two-thirds of its quantity of fresh butter, and an equal proportion of bread panada (No. 239); pound these until well mixed, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, adding three yolks of eggs, and continue pounding for five minutes, then add two whole eggs, and after these have been thoroughly mixed in by pounding, take the force-meat up into a basin. Previously to using the force-meat, add a spoonful of Allemande or Béchamel sauce; next, shake some flour over a slab or table, divide the force-meat with a table-spoon into fourteen equal parts, roll these with the hand dipped in flour into small oval shapes, and place them immediately in a sautapan spread with butter; mask them over with a soft paste-brush dipped in beaten white of egg, and decorate them with black truffles. Poach the boudins with boiling water, in the usual manner; when done, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle, so as to show the decorated part ; fill the centre with a ragout consisting either of muscles, oysters, shrimps, crayfish, or riushrooms; pour round some Supréme sauce (No. 38), finished with some reduced essence made from the bones of the fish, and serve. 1115. QUENELLES OF WHITINGS, A LA PRINCESSE. Movtp sixteen quenelles in table-spoons, with some force-meat of whitings prepared as directed in the above case, mixed with a spoonful of puree of mushrooms (No. 122); place the quenelles in a sautapan spread with butter, poach them in the usual manner, and when done, drain, and dish them up in close circular order; pour some Princesse sauce (No. 45) over the entrée, fill the centre with a ragout of soft roes of mackerel (No. 199), and serve. 1116. BOUDINS OF SALMON, A L’ITALIENNE. Pounp about one pound of fresh salmon, and pass it through a fine wire sieve; then put it again into a mortar with two-thirds of its quantity of fresh butter, and an equal proportion of bread panada (No. 239); pound these thoroughly for about five minutes, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, adding three yolks of eggs; mix these well together, then add one whole egg, and a spoonful of reduced Allemande sauce, continue pounding for ten minutes longer, after which take the force-meat up into a basin. Mould four large quenelles with ragout-spoons, and place them in a deep sautapan spread with butter; lay a small fillet of sole contisé with black truffles round the edge of each quenelle, poach them in the usual way, and when done, drain them upon a napkin, then dish them upright against a narrow crdustade of fried bread, previously fastened in the centre of the dish; place a large crayfish between each quenelle, garnish the top of the STURGEON AND SALMON, 343 erdustade with scollops of mushrooms, pour some white Italian sauce (No. 18) round the enéreé, and serve. 1117. QUENELLES OF SALMON, A LA RAVIGOTTE. Movtp a dozen quenelles in table-spoons, with some force-meat of salmon prepared as directed above ; poach them in the ordinary way and when done, drain and dish them up in close circular order; pour some Kavigotte sauce (No. 21) over them, fill the centre with eliots of whitings tossed in a little Allemande sauce, and serve. 1118. BLANQUETTE OF STURGEON. Braizs about two pounds of sturgeon in some wine mirepoix (No. 236), for about three quarters of an hour, and set it to cool in its own liquor; then drain and cut it up into scollops, and place these in a stewpan with some scollops of truffles and button-mushrooms, to which add some Allemande sauce finished with part of the mirepoir reduced for the purpose: warm the blanquette, dish it up in the form of a dome, garnish round with lobster croquettes, and serve. 1119 SCOLLOPS OF STURGEON, WITH FINE-HERBS. Procure about two pounds of sturgeon, place it in an earthen pan, strew over it sliced carrot and onion, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, and season with mignionette pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a gill of salad-oil ; allow this to remain for a day or two, frequently turning the fish over in the seasoning. When about to dress the sturgeon, drain it upon a cloth’ to absorb all the moisture, and cut it up into heart-shaped or oval scollops, about the thickness of a quarter of an inch ; as these in a sautapan with some clarified butter, six ounces of scollops of truffles, some mushrooms, parsley, and two shalots chopped fine, and season with a little cayenne and grated nutmeg ; fry the whole on a moderate fire, turning the scollops over when lightly browned on one side. When they are done, drain off the grease, pour in some finished sturgeon sauce (No. 56), toss the whole together over the fire for three minutes, dish the scollops up in the form of a dome, garnish round with a border of crayfish-tails, and Serve. 1120. CUTLETS OF STURGEON, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. First steep the sturgeon as directed in the foregoing case; then, cut it up into heart-shaped fillets, about the size and rather thicker than fillets of fowls: stick the claw of a crayfish into the pointed end of each cutlet, and place them in a curved form in a sautapan with some clarified butter: season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon-juice. Fry the cutlets of a light-brown colour on both sides; pour off the grease, toss them in a little glaze, and dish them up in a close circle; fill the centre with some Bourguignotte ragout (No, 195), pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. 1121 FILLETS OF SALMON, A L’AURORE. Cur about two pounds of salmon into oval fillets ; place these in a gautapan with some clarified butter, season with pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; fry them over the stove-fire, for B44 ENTREES OF FISH. five minutes, pour off nearly all the butter, and then mask each fillet with a thin coating of Allemande sauce (No. 7); rub eight hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a wire sieve, and spread this kind of vermicelli equally over all the fillets; then pass the hot salamander over them to deepen the colour of the yolk of egg, dish the fillets up in a close circle, fill the centre with a ragout of mushrooms, small quenelles, and muscles, tossed in some Aurora sauce (No. 41), pour some of it round the base, and serve. 1122, FILLETS OF SALMON, A LA PARISIENNE, Cur these into the shape of fillets of fowls, season with a little pepper and salt, and mask them over with a coating of reduced Alle- mande sauce; when this has become cold, bread-crumb them twice over in the usual manner, and put them in a sautapan with some clarified butter ; fry the fillets over a brisk stove-fire, of a light colour, and when done, drain, and dish them up im a close circle; fill the centre with some ragout d la Parisiénne (No. 203), pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. 1123. SALMON CUTLETS, A LA MAINTENON. ‘frrm the salmon into fillets, as above, and place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter; season with pepper and salt, grated nut- meg, chopped mushrooms, truffles, parsley, and two shalots, and fry them over a stove-fire for five minutes; then add two gravy-spoon- fuls of Allemande sauce (No. 7), a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; simmer the whole together for two minutes longer, and remove them from the fire. Cut as many sheets of small note- paper, into the shape of hearts, as there are cutlets; oil them over with a paste-brush, place one in each, divide the sauce equally, and then fold the edges down all round, by neatly and firmly twisting them under in pleats, so as thoroughly to prevent the sauce from escaping ; place the cutlets upon a clean oie over a Clear fire of coke, of very moderate heat, and broil them without allowing the paper to burn; dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with fried parsley, and send some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) separately in a boat. 1124. FILLETS OF TURBOT. Turse are described in the section treating of turbots dressed for removes, &c. (No. 405). 1125. FILLETS OF GURNETS, WITH CAPER SAUCE. Fintet the gurnets, remove the skin, and if the fish are large, divide each fillet into several pieces, so that they may not be larger than fillets of fowls; place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and place them in the oven, or over a stove-fire, to simmer for about five minutes, then turn them over, and when done on both sides, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle ; fill the centre with small quenelles of the same kind of fish, pour some caper sauce (No. 90) over the entrée, and serve. Note.—Fillets of gurnets prepared and dished up as the above, may also be served with any of the following sauces :—Italian, Ravigotte, Maitre-V hotel, Oyster, Muscles, or Crayfish. FILLETS OF SOLES. 345 1126. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA DIEPPOISE. Trrm the fillets, and spread them on the outside with a, preparation of fine-herbs, mixed with three yolks of eggs; then double them up pat them together, and insert the claw of a crayfish into the narrow end of each. Place the fillets in a sautapan thickly spread with butter, moisten with the liquor from the oysters used for the sauce, and season with a little mignionette-pepper, and salt ; cover these with a circular piece of paper spread with butter, and set them to simmer gently over a stove-fire for about ten minutes ; when they are done, drain the fillets on a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle, show- ing the crayfish claws; fill the centre, garnish the base of the entrée with some Norman matelotte ragout (No. 194), and serve. 1127. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Trim the fillets neatly, take hold of both ends (keeping the whitest side uppermost), and bring them together, one overlaying the other; then place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and a little lemon-juice ; simmer them over the fire for ten minutes, and when done, drain and dish them up in a close circle; pour some Maitre-d’hétel sauce (No. 43) over them, and serve. Note.—Fillets of soles prepared as the foregoing, may also be served with either of the following sauces :—Ravigotte, Italian, Aurora, Pas- caline, Crayfish, Oyster, Shrimp, and Dutch. 1128. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA VENITIENNE. Frituet four soles, trim the fillets, and place one half in a sautapan, with some clarified butter, lemon-juice, pepper, and salt, in the man- ner directed in the foregoing case; simmer the remainder (without trimming them) also with the same seasoning; when they are done, drain them upon a plate, and allow these to cool. Then, cut up the latter into small dice, mix them with some reduced Allemande sauce, and season with two-ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, mignionette- pepper, and grated nutmeg; spread this preparation out upon an earthen dish, about the sixth part of an inch thick, and when it has become firm by cooling, cut it out into pieces about the size and shape of the fillets, and bread-crumb these in the usual manner. Just before sending to table, simmer the fillets over the stove, and fry the cro- guettes in plenty of clean hog’s-lard, made hot for the purpose; when done, drain both upon a napkin, and dish them in a close circle, placing alternately the croquettes and fillets; fill the centre with small quenelles of whitings, pour some Venetian sauce (No. 26) over these and the white fillets only, and serve. 1129. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA PROVENCALE. Trim the fillets of soles, divide each, and steep them for several hours in a basin with mignionette-pepper, a little salt, lemon-juice, salad-oil, thyme, bay-leaf, and two shalots. Then, drain the fillets on a cloth to absorb all the moisture, flour them over, dip them in some light batter (No. 231), and fry them in clean hog’s-lard; when they have acquired a light colour, drain them upon a napkin, dish them 346 ENTREES OF FISH. up, pour either some Provengale, Dutch, Fine-herbs, Ravigotie, or Maitre d’ Hétel sauce under them, and serve. 1130. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA HORLY. Tr the fillets of soles, and steep them for several hours in the same kind of seasoning directed to be used for No. 1129—substituting two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar for the lemon-juice. Drain tne fillets on a cloth, in order to absorb the moisture, then shake them in some flour, drop them into some clean hog’s-lard, and fry them of a light colour ; drain the fillets upon a sieve covered with paper, dish them up in a pile, pour either some Tomata, Italian, Piquante, Ravi- gotte, or Provengale sauce round them, and serve. 1131. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA ROUENNAISE. Fiiuet three large soles, divide each across, and trim them in the shape of fillets of fowls; mask them over with a coating of d’ Uzelles sauce (No. 16), and when this has become firm upon them by cooling, bread-crumb them twice over in the ordinary way ; stick a piece of the horns of a lobster into the narrow end of each fillet, so as to give them the appearance of cutlets, and place them in a sautapan, with some clarified butter. Fry the fillets of a bright-yellow colour, on both sides ; drain, and then dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with a Rouwénnaise ragout (No. 197), and serve. 11382. PAUPIETTES OF FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA CARDINAL. Trim the fillets of four large soles, spread them upon a napkin, garnish each with a layer of quenelle force-meat of whitings, mixed with some lobster coral, and roll each fillet up in the form of a small barrel ; spread four sheets of letter-paper with butter, then place four paupiettes in each, squeeze some lemon-juice over them, and roll them up tightly, to keep them in'shape. Place these rolls of paupiéties in a sautapan, and put them in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes ; then remove the papers, drain the paupiéttes upon a napkin, pare off the ends with a sharp knife, and dish them up on their ends, side by side, in a close circle, so as to show the coral; fill the centre with some Cardinal ragout (No. 200), pour some of the sauce over the fillets, and serve. 1133. DOLPHINS OF WHITINGS, A LA PARISIENNE. , Sxin four fine fresh whitings, and remove the back-bones without detaching the fillets from the head ; roll out, and bake a circular piece of common paste, nearly the size of the bottom of the dish; fasten thereon a pillar-shaped crdustade of fried bread three inches high, and one inch in diameter. Prepare some force-meat of whitings, coloured with lobster coral, and mask the heads and fillets of whitings entirely with it, smoothing them over with a knife dipped in hot water; then turn the tail-ends of the fish, inwardly, down upon the centre of the head—giving to each the form of a heart ; place them upright against the créustade, with their heads resting flat upon the foundation o, paste, and decorate them over with half-moons of black truffies, placed thereon so as to represent scales of fish ; cover them with very thin layers of fat bacon, and encircle the entrée with a band of buttered WILLEIS OF TROUT. 347 aper, fastened with two pins: this must not touch the whitings. i: e the dolphins in a moderately-heated oven, for about forty minutes ; ascertain whether they are done through, and then remove the paper and bacon ; absorb all the grease, place them carefully upon their dish, garnish the entrée with a ragout of button-mushrooms, oysters, and crayfish-tails ; surmount the whole with a large truffle, glaze the dolphins with a little lobster coral diluted in the glaze, pour some Supréme sauce (No. 38), finished with an essence made from the bones and trimmings, round the entrée, and serve. Note.—Fillets of whitings may also be prepared according to the several directions given for dressing fillets of soles. 1134, FILLETS OF TROUT, A LA CHEVALIERE. Drvinz the fillets of two good-sized trout into moderate-sized oval scollops or fillets; mask them over with reduced @’ Uzelles sauce (No. 16), and bread-crumb them twice over this with bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese in the proportion of one-third ; the fillets must be first dipped in beaten egg, and then sprinkled with clarified butter, preparatory to their being bread-crumbed a second time. Fry them of a bright-yellow colour, drain, and dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with aragout of soft roes of mackerel or herrings, and crayfish tails; pour some Crayfish sauce (No. 54) round the entrée, and serve. 1135. FILLETS OF TROUT, A LA REGENCE. Trim the fillets into pieces resembling fillets of fowls; place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; simmer the fillets over the fire for five minutes, turn them over, and when done on both sides, drain and dish them up in aclose circle; fill the centre with a ragout dla Régence (No. 210), pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. 1136. EPIGRAMME OF FILLETS OF TROUT. Trim the fillets as above, bread-crumb one half, in the ordinary manner, and place these in a sautapan, with clarified butter; put the - remainder into another sautapan, with clarified butter, without being bread-crumbed, and season with pepper and salt. Fry the fillets, drain and dish them up in a close circle, placing one of each kind alternately ; fill the centre with some scollops of fillets of soles, tossed in a spoonful of Béchamel sauce, and some chopped and parboiled parsley; pour some Aurora sauce (No. 41), over the plain fillets (taking care not to smear those that are bread-crumbed}, pour some of it round the base, and serve. Note.—Fillets of plaice, flounders, and perch, may be dressed in the game manner as directed for fillets of soles or whitings. 1137. FILLETS OF MACKEREL. Sze Mackerel (No. 480). 348 SECOND-COURSE ROASTS, COMPRISING Rosst Hare Roast Larks, 3, Rabbits, 3» Woodcocks, &c. >, Pheasants, 3, Capons. », Partridges. », Poulards. 95 Quails, »» Green Goose. », Ruffs and Reeves, », Ducklings. 5 ertens: »» Pigeons. », Wheatears. »,» Black Game. », Guinea-fowls, », Pea-fowl. 1138. ROAST HARE. SKin and draw the hare, leaving on the ears, which must be scalded, and the hairs scraped off; pick out the eyes, and cut off the feet or pads, just above the first jomt; wipe the hare with a clean cloth, and cut the sinews at the back of the hind-quarters, and below the fore- legs. Prepare some veal stuffing, and fill the paunch with it; sew this up with string, or fasten it with a wooden skewer, then draw the legs under, as if the hare was in a sitting posture, set the head be- tween the shoulders, and stick a small skewer through them, running also through the neck, to secure its position; run another skewer through the four legs gathered up under the paunch, then take a yard of string, double it in two, placing the centre of it on the breast of the hare, and bring both ends over the skewer, cross the string over both sides of the other skewer, and fasten it over the back. Spit the hare, and roast it before a brisk fire for about three-quarters of an hour, frequently basting it with butter or dripping. Five minutes before taking the hare up, throw on a little salt, shake some flour over it with a dredger, and baste it with some fresh butter; when this froths up, and the hare has acquired arich brown crust, take it off the spit, dish it up with water-cresses round it, pour some brown gravy under, and send some currant-jelly in a boat, to be handed round. 1139. ROAST RABBITS. Truss these in the same manner as hares, then spit and roast them before a rather brisk fire, frequently basting them ; ten minutes before taking them up, baste the rabbits with the following preparation :— Mix a gill of cream with a table-spoonful of flour, some chopped pars- ley, two yolks of eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mask the rabbits entirely with this, and as soon as it has dried on them, baste them with some fresh butter. This not only adds to the attractive appear- ance of the rabbits, but it concentrates their gravy, and prevents them from becoming dry, which too generally occurs, when roasted accord- ing to the common practice. When done, take the rabbits up with care, to avoid breaking off the light-brown crust formed upon them ; dish them up, pour some sauce prepared as follows, under them, and serve. Boil the livers, chop them fine, and put them into a small stewpan with chopped parsley, a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter, a spoor- ful of sauce, pepper, and salt, erated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and a spoon- a ee — ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, ETC. 349 of gravy ; stir this over the fire until it boils, and use it as directed above. 1140. ROAST PHEASANT. _ Draw the pheasant by making a small opening at the vent, make an incision along the back-part of the neck, loosen the pouch, &c., with the fingers, and then remove it; singe the body of the pheasant and its legs over the flame of a charcoal-fire, or with a piece of paper _ rub the scaly cuticle off the legs with a cloth, trim away the claws and spurs, cut off the neck close up to the back, leaving the skin of the breast entire, wipe the pheasant clean, and then truss it in the following manner :—Place the pheasant upon its breast, run a truss- ing-needle and string through the left pinion (the wings being re- moved), then turn the bird over on its back, and place the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand across the breast, holding the legs erect; thrust the needle through the middle joint cf both thighs, draw it out and then pass it through the other pinion, and fasten the strings at the back; next, pass the needle through the hollow of the back, just below the thighs, thrust it again through the legs and body, and tie the strings tightly: this will give it an appearance of plumpness. Spit and roast the pheasant before a brisk fire, for about half an hour, frequently basting it; when done, send to table with brown gravy’ ander it, and bread sauce (No. 80), separately, in a boat. 1141. ROAST PARTRIDGES. THESE should be trussed, roasted, and served in the same manner as Pheasants. Sometimes, for the sake of variety, both pheasants and partridges are larded in the same way as sweetbreads, but the practice is not generally liked. 1142. ROAST QUAILS. Draw and truss these in the manner directed for pheasants ; cut some thin square layers of fat bacon, just large enough to cover a quail, spread a vine-leaf over each of these, cut it to their size, and then tie them neatly on the breasts of the quails. Run an iron skewer through the quails, fasten this on to a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire, for about a quarter of an hour, then dish them up with water-cresses round them, glaze the layers of bacon, pour some gravy ander the quails, and serve. 1143. RUFFS AND REEVES. Tress birds must not be drawn, neither do they require much trussing, being very plump; a small wooden skewer should be run through the thighs and pinions, with a string passed round it, and fastened ; cover these also with a layer of bacon and a vine-leaf, rur them upon a lark-spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes, frequently basting them with butter, and set some toasted bread under them, to receive their droppings. When done, dish them up on square pieces of the toast, garnish with water-cresses, pour some gravy under them, and serve the following sauce separately in a boat:—A ragout-spoonful of good butter-sauce (No. 70), a piece of glaze, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice. OrroLans and WHEATEARS are served in the same manner as the foregoing. * 350 SECOND-COURSE ROASTS. 1144. ROAST LARKS. Cur off the heads and legs, and pick out the gizzards at the sides with the point of a small knife; season with chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and nutmeg; rub the larks over with beaten yolks of eggs, bread-crumb them, sprinkle them with clarified butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs a second time; then run them on a lark-spit; fasten this on a common spit, and roast them before a very brisk fire, for about a quarter of an hour, basting them with fresh butter melted in a spoon before the fire. When done, dish them up in rows, or in a circle, fill the centre with bread-crumbs fried of a light-brown colour in a sautapan with butter, and serve them with the sauce recommended ’ for ruffs and reeves. 1145. woopcocKS AND SNIPES. THxs& are both trussed and roasted in the same manner. First, pick them entirely, neck and head, then twist the legs at the joints, so as to bring the feet down upon the thighs; run their bill through the thighs and body, and fasten a noose with string round the bend or the joints, across the lower part of the breast; bring both ends round the head and tip of the bill, and fasten it on the back. Cover the woodcocks with layers of bacon, and tie these round with string; roast them before the fire, for about five-and-twenty minutes, fre- quently basting them with butter or dripping; place some toasted bread under the birds, to receive the droppings from the trail, and when they are done, dish them up with a piece of the toast under each, and water-cresses round them. Serve some extract of wood- cocks (No. 173) separately, in a boat. 1146. ROAST CAPONS. Draw and truss these as directed for trussing pheasants; place them upon a spit, fasten the feet to it with string, to prevent the capon from twisting round while roasting: about three quarters of an hour will suffice to roast them. When done, dish them up with water-cresses, pour some bright gravy under them, and serve with bread-sauce in a boat. Pouwlards, fowls, chickens, and turkey poults, are treated in the same manner as the foregoing. 1147. GREEN-GOOSE. Draw the goose, pick off all the stubble-feathers, scald the legs, and rub off the skin with a cloth; cut the tips of the feet, and twist the legs round:so as to let the web of the feet rest flat upon the thighs; then truss the goose in the ordinary way, as direcced for pheasants. Place it on a spit, and roast it before a brisk fire, for about three quarters of an hour; when doné, dish it up with water- cresses round it, pour some gravy under, and serve. Ducklings are roasted and served in the same way as the above. 1148. ROAST PIGEONS. Truss these with thin layers of fat bacon and a vine-leaf over the breasts; roast them before the fire for about twenty minutes, and when done, dish them up with a sauce made with the livers, in the manner directed for making liver-sauce for rabbits (No. 11389). GROUSE AND GUINEA-FOWLS. 351 ° 1149, ROAST RLACK-GAME, AND GROUSE. Bot these should be trussed in the same manner as pheasants, then roasted before a brisk fire, and five minutes before taking them up should be frothed with flour and butter, according to the directions for roast hare; when done, dish them up with gravy under them, and send 3 table with fried bread-crumbs, and bread-sauce, in separate sauce- oats. 1150a. PEAHENS. Truss these in the same way as pheasants, except that the head must be left adhering to the skin of the breast, and fastened at the side of the thigh; let the peahen be closely larded all over the breast, and roasted before a moderate fire for about an hour; when nearly done, glaze the larding, and on removing the fowl from the fire, dish up with water-cresses, pour some gravy under, and serve with bread- sauce separately, in a sauce-boat. 1150. GUINEA-FOWLS. Two of these are generally served for a dish, one of which should be larded, and the other covered with a layer of fat bacon; roast them before a brisk fire for about forty minutes, glaze and dish them up with water-cresses: pour some gravy under, and serve bread-sauce separately, in a boat. VEGETABLES FOR ENTREMETS, OR SECOND- COURSE DISHES, COMPRISING Braized Celery, with Zspagnole sauce. French Beans, with Fine-herbs, Selery, a la Villeroi. Broad Beans, d fa Créme. Salsifis, d la Créme. Green Peas, plain, »» fried in Batter, Stewed Peas, Spinach, with Butter. Peas, a la Frangaise. », With Cream. Turnips glacés, with Sugar. Endive, with Cream. Young Carrots, a 1’ Allemande, Caulifiowers, with White Sauce, Vegetable Marrow. re with Parmesan Cheese, Another method. Tomatas, ¢ la Provengale. Cucumbers, d Ja Poulette. Mushrooms, au gratin, i a PEspagnole. Large Truffles, a la Serviétte, Jerusalem Artichokes, d la Sauce. Truffles, a la Piémontaise. e a I’ Italiénne. Portugal Onions, d ?’ Zspagnole. White Haricot Beans, d la Mattre-d’hétel, Artichokes, with Butter Sauce. pe ad la Brétonne. " d la Barigoule. American Yams, d la Frangatse. - d la Lyonnatse. Potatoes, a la Mattre-P hotel. ss a I’ Itahienne. New Potatoes, a la Créme. Asparagus, with White Sauce. Potatoes, d fa Créme, au gratin. Asparagus Peas, a la Creme. Seakale, a fa Sauce. French Beans, a fa Maitre-@hétel. Brussels Sprouts, 1151. BRAIZED CELERY, WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE, CLEAN twelve heads of celery, cut them about six inches in length, and trim the roots neatly; parboil them in water for ten minutes, 352 SECOND-COURSE DISHES and then immerse them in cold water; drain them on a sieve, and afterwards place them in a stewpan with some blanc (No. 235), and braize them gently over a slow fire for about an hour; when done, drain them upon a napkin, trim and dish them up in the following order :—First, place five heads of celery the same way in the dish, then four, two, and one, respectively ; garnish round with some small ercular créustades of fried bread, about an inch in diameter, and filled with beef marrow, previously boiled for three minutes in water with a little salt, and afterwards tossed in a stewpan with a little liquid glaze, lemon-juice, pepper and salt; pour some bright Hspagnole sauce (in- corporated with a pat of butter and a little lemon-juice) over the celery, and serve. ' 1152. CELERY, A LA VILLEROI. BrazE eight heads of celery in the manner described in the pre- vious article, and when done, drain it upon a napkin to absorb all the moisture ; split each head into halves, mask them with some reduced Allemande sauce (No. 7), and place them upon an earthen dish to become cold. They must then be rolled in bread-crumbs, afterwards dipped in beaten eggs, and bread-crumbed over again. Just before sending to table, place the pieces of celery carefully upon the wire lining of a frying-pan, immerse them in plenty of clean hog’s-lard heated for the purpose, and fry them of a bright-yellow colour; drain them upon a cloth, dish them up on a napkin with some fried parsley, and serve. 1153. SALSIFIS, A LA CREME, Scrave off the outside part until the salsifis become white, and throw them into a pan containing cold water, mixed with a twentieth part of vinegar or lemon-juice, to prevent them from losing their white- ness, then boil them in hot water, with a little butter, mignionette- pepper, salt, lemon-juice, or vinegar. When done, drain them on a sieve, cut them up into inch lengths, and put them intoa stewpan with a ragout-spoonful of cream Béciamel sauce (No. 6), a pat of butter, a little mignionette-pepper and lemon-juice ; toss them over the fire, and dish them up in the form of a dome; place some créutons of fried bread or fleurons round the dish, and serve. 1154. SALSIFIS, FRIED IN BATTER. PREPARE the salsifis as above, and when done, drain and cut them into pieces about three inches long; put these into a basin with two table-spoonfuls of oil, one of French vinegar, some mignionette-pepper and salt ; allow them to steep in this until within about ten minutes before sending them to table; they must then be drained upon a napkin, dipped in some light-made batter, and fried in hog’s-lard made hot for the purpose; when done, drain them on a cloth, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve. 1155. SPINACH, WITH BUTTER. Pick all the stalks from the spinach, wash it in several waters, and drain it upon a sieve; throw it into a stewpan of hot water with a nandful of salt, and keep it boiling until it becomes thoroughly tender and soft to the touch; then drain it in a colander, immerse i4 in cold VEGETABLES FOR ENTREMETS. 353 water, and afterwards squeeze all the water from it. The spinach must next be carefully turned over with the point of a knife, to remove ‘any straws or stalks that may have been overlooked ; it should then be chopped or pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a coarse wire sieve, and placed in a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, a little salt and grated nutmeg ; stir the spinach over a stove-fire with a wooden spoon until it becomes quite warm, then add a gravy-spoonful of good sauce, a small piece of glaze, and about four ounces of fresh butter. Work the whole together, with a wooden spoon, until well mixed, then pile the spinach up in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with croutons, and serve. 1156. SPINACH, WITH CREAM. PrEpaRE the spinach as above, season with a little nutmeg, salt, and two ounces of fresh butter; stir it over a stove-fire until quite warm, then add a gill of double cream, two pats of butter, and a good dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar ; work the whole well together over the fire, and dish up the spinach as directed in the foregoing article. 1157. ENDIVE, WITH CREAM. Pick off all the outer teaves, leaving only the white; trun the roots, and wash the endive in several waters, carefully removing any msects that may be concealed in the inner folds of the leaves. Put 2 large stewpan half filled with water on a brisk fire, and when it boils, throw in the endives, with a handful of salt, and allow them to con- tinue boiling fast until they become quite tender; drain them in a colander, immerse them in plenty of cold water, then squeeze all the moisture from them, and place them on a sieve. Next, take each head of endive separately, cut off the root, and again look over the leaves, spreading them on the table with the point of a knife; when this is completed, chop them very fine, wad pass them through 2 coarse wire sieve. ‘Then, place them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; stir this over the fire for ten minutes, add half a pint of double cream, a eravy-spoonful of Béchamel or Velouté sauce, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar; keep the endives boiling on a stove-fire until suffi- ciently reduced so as to be able to pile them on a dish when sending to table; garnish round with créutons or fleurons, and serve. 1158. CAULIFLOWERS, WITH WHITE SAUCE. Remove the green stalks, divide them, if large, into quarters, and with the point of a small knife pick out all the small leaves; wash the cauliflowers, and boil them in hot water with a little mignionette- pepper, a pat of butter, and some salt: when done, drain them upon a4 sieve. Next, take a round-bottomed quart basin and fill it with the caulifiowers, placing the flowerets next the sides, that the white only may show when dished up; previously to turning them out upon the dish, drain them again on a napkin, by turning the basin up- side down upon it; after which, turn the cauliflowers out into their dish, pour some white sauce (No. 71) over them, garnish with flewrons, and serve. d Dek BD4 SECOND-COURSE DISHES. 1159. CAULIFLOWERS, WITH PARMESAN CHEESE Prepare and dish up the cauliflowers as directed above. Put a large ragout-spoonful of Béchamel or Velouté sauce, into a stewpan, with four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of four eggs, a small piece of glaze, some lemon-juice, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this preparation over a stove-fire, until it be well mixed, without boiling; then, pour it on to the cauli- flowers, so as to mask them entirely with it. Smooth the dome over with the blade of a knife, and cover the top with a coating of grated Parmesan cheese; place them in the oven to gratinate for about a quarter of an hour; when they have acquired a bright-yellow colour, put a border of créutons of fried bread round the base, and serve. The créutons may be stuck round the bottom of the dish in the form of a coronet, previously to dishing up the cauliflowers, so as to prevent them from spreading. 1160. TOMATAS, A LA PROVENCALE. Sutcz off that part of the tomata that adheres to the stalk, scoop out the seeds without breaking the sides of the fruit, and place this in circular order in a sautapan, containing about a gill of salad oil. Next, chop up half a pottle of mushrooms, a handful of parsley, and four shalots ; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of scraped fat bacon, and an equal proportion of lean ham, either chopped or grated fine ; season with pepper and salt, and a little chopped thyme. Fry these over the stove-fire for about five minutes ; then, mix in the yolks of four eggs, fill the tomatas with this preparation, shake some light- coloured raspings of bread over them, and place them over a brisk stove-fire, holding a red-hot salamander over them for about ten minutes, by which time they will be done; dish them up in the form of a dome, pour some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) round the base, and serve. 1161. MUSHROOMS, AU GRATIN. Puywet, or large mushrooms, must be used for this purpose. Cut the stalks, trim the edges, and remove the skin, then fill each mush- room with a similar preparation to that directed to be used for tomatas d la Provengale ; shake some raspings of bread over them, and place them in a sautapan, thickly spread with butter; put them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour to gratinate, and then dish them up in a pyramidal form; pour some brown Italian sauce round them, and serve. 1162. LARGE TRUFFLES, A LA SERVIETTE, * WHEN the truffles have been thoroughly cleansed by brushing the mould off in water, drain them in a sieve, then place them in a stew- pan linea with thin layers of fat bacon; pour some wine mirepoix (No 236) on them, place some layers of bacon on the top, and set them to boil on the stove-fire; the lid must then be put on, and hermetically closed round with stiff flour-anil-water paste to concentrate the flavour of the truffles. Allow them to simmer gently by the side of a slow fire, or in the oven, for about three-quarters of an hour, then dish * Note. ‘The finest French truffles are imported by CrossE and BLACKWELL, Soho Square. 4 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. O08 them in the folds of a napkin, and send the followmg sauce separately in a sauce-boat:—Mix a gill of the finest salad-oil with a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, some mignionette- pepper, a little salt, and two table-spoonfuls of half-glaze (made by boiling down about a gill of the mirepoix in which the truffles have been boiled), which send to table in a sauce-boat. 1168. TRUFFLES, A LA PIEMONTAISE. Cour half a pound of fresh truffles into scollops, place them in a sautapan with two table-spoonfuls of Liucca-oil, one of chopped parsley, a little chopped thyme, a clove of garlic, some mignionette- pepper and salt; fry them over a brisk stove-fire for five minutes, remove the garlic, then add a gravy-spoonful of Italian or EL’spagnole ~ sauce, a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together over the fire, and pour it over the hollow crusts of two French rolls, from which the top crust part has been removed, then thickly spread with butter, and afterwards placed in the oven for ten minutes to become crisp. 1164. PORTUGAL ONIONS, A L’ESPAGNOLE. Pret the onions, and stamp out the cores with a long vegetable- cutter about quarter of an inch in diameter; parboil them in water, for ten minutes, and then drain them upon a cloth. Spread the bottom of a deep sautapan with butter, place the onions in it, moisten with broth sufficient to just cover them, and set them to boil gently over a slow fire, occasionally turning them in their liquor; when they are nearly done, add a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, boil them down quickly to a glaze, and when this is done, roll the onions in it, and dish them up in a close circle. Next, pour a gravy-spoonful of purée of fresh tomatas, and an equal quantity of bright Espagnole sauce, into the remainder of the glaze, boil this together over the stove-fire, pour it round the onions, and serve. Note.—These onions are better adapted for garnishing removes of braized beef, &c., than for being served as a second-course dish. 1165. ARTICHOKES, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. Trim the bottoms of six artichokes, cut off the tips of the leaves, and boil them in water with a little salt, for about three-quarters of an hour; when done, drain them upon a sieve, and immerse them in cold water for five minutes ; loosen the fibrous substance in the inside with the handle of a table-spoon, and after this has been all removed from the artichokes, put them back into some hot water for a few minutes to warm them through; drain them upside-down upon a napkin to absorb all the moisture, and then dish them up on a napkin; pour a little butter sauce (No. 71) inside each, and send up some of the sauce in a boat. 1166. ARTICHOKES, A LA BARIGOULE. Trim six small artichokes, and with the handle of an iron table- Spoon, scoop out all the fibrous part mside. Put about a pound of : 2A 2 306 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. vlean hog’s-lard into a frying-pan on the fire, and when quite hot, fry the bottoms of the artichokes in it for about three minutes, then turn them upside-down, and fry the tips of the leaves also; drain them upon a cloth to absorb all the grease, and fill them with a similar preparation to that directed for tomatas d la Provengale (No. 1160) ; cover them over with layers of fat bacon, tie them up with string, and place them in a large stewpan or fricandeau-pan lined with thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with half a tumbler of white wine, and a little good consommé, or with some wine mirepoix (No. 236) ; put the lid on, and after they have boiled up on the abe them in the oven to simmer very gently for about an hour. en done, drain them upon a cloth, remove the strings and the bacon, fill the centre of each © artichoke with some Italian sauce (No. 12), dish them up with some of the sauce in a boat, and serve. » 1167. ARTICHOKES, A LA LYONNAISE. Putt off the lower leaves without damaging the bottoms of the artichokes, which must be turned smooth with a sharp knife; cut the artichokes into quarters, remove the fibrous parts, trim them neatly and parboil them in water with a little salt for about five minutes; then drain them in a colander, and immerse them in cold water, after which drain them upon a cloth, and arrange them in circular order in a sautapan thickly spread with about four ounces of fresh butter; strew a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar over this, season with mig- nionette-pepper and salt, moisten with a glass of white wine, and a gravy-spoontul of good consommé, and place them on a slow fire to simmer very gently for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care that they do not burn. When done, they should be of a deep-yellow colour and nicely glazed; dish them up in the form of a dome, show- ing the bottom of the artichokes only ; remove any leaves that may have broken off in the sautapan, add a ragout-spoonful of bright Eispagnole sauce, two pats of butter, and some lemon-juice; simmer this over the stove-fire, stirring it meanwhile with a spoon, and when the butter has been mixed in with the sauce, pour it over the arti- chokes, and serve. | 1168. ARTICHOKES, A L’ITALIENNE. THEsE are prepared in the manner described in the foregoing article, except that when about to finish them, brown Italian sauce © (No. 12) must be substituted for Lspagnole, 1169. ASPARAGUS, WITH WHITE SAUCE, | Pick the loose leaves from the heads, and scrape the stalks clean, wash them in a pan of cold water, tie them up in bundles of about twenty in each, keeping all the heads turned the same way; cut the stalks even, leaving them about eight inches long. Put the asparagus in hot water with a small handful of salt in it, to boil for about twenty minutes, and when done, drain them carefully upon a napkin to avoid breaking off the heads- dish them up on a square thick piece of toasted bread dipped in the water they have been boiled in, and send to table with some white sauce (No 71) separately in a sauce-boat. . ASPARAGUS, AND FRENCH BEANS. 357 ‘ | 1170, ASPARAGUS-PEAS, A LA CREME. Bors a quart of asparagus-peas in plenty of water and a handful of galt: the water must boil before the peas are put in; when they are done, drain them in a colander, immerse them in cold water for three minutes, and then drain them upon a sieve. Next, place the aspara- gus-peas in a stewpan with a small faggot of green onions and parsley, _ two ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; put the lid onand set them to simmer gently over a slow fire for ten mimutes. Then remove the faggot of parsley, and if there be any liquor in the peas, boil it down quickly, and in- corporate with them two small pats of fresh butter, and a leason of four yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream; toss the peas over a stove-fire to set the leason in them, and dish them up in the form. of a dome, with a border of flewrons round them, and serve. 1171. FRENCH-BEANS, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Pick and string the beans, cut them up, and shred each bean into three or four strips ; wash them in plenty of water, drain them in a colander, and throw them into a stewpan containing boiling water and a handful of salt, and boil them briskly until they become tender : they must be drained in a colander, then immersed in cold water for five minutes, and drained upon a napkin to absorb all the moisture. Next, put a gravy-spoonful of Béchamel or Supréme sauce into a stew- pan with four ounces of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped and parboiled parsley, a very little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; stir these well together over the stove-fire, and when perfectly mixed throw in the beans, and toss the whole together over the fire until quite hot; then dish them up with a border of créutons round them and serve. . 1172. FRENCH-BEANS, WITH FINE HERBS. Bot the beans as directed in the foregoing case. Put two pats of fresh butter into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped and parboiled parsley, and two shalots also chopped, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon; simmer this over a stove-fire until melted, and then throw the beans in, toss the whole together, and dish them up with créutons round them. 1173. BROAD-BEANS, A LA CREME. For this purpose the beans must be young. Boil them in watex, with a faggot of parsley and some salt: when done, drain them in a colander, put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter, some chopped parsley, and as much chopped winter-savory as will cover the tip of a spoon, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; toss the beans over the fire for five minutes, and then incorporate with them a leason of four yolks of eggs and the juice of half a lemon; when the leason has become set in the beans; dish them up with fleurons round them, and serve. 1174. GREEN PEAS, PLAIN. Pour the peas into boiling water with some salt and a bunch of green mint ; keep them boiling briskly for about; twenty minutes, and 358 ENTREMETS OF VEGETAULES. when done, drain them in a colander, dish them up with chopped boiled mint on the top, and send some small pats of very fresh butter separately on a plate. 1175. STEWED PEAS. Pur a quart of young peas into a pan, with four ounces of butter and plenty of cold water ; rub the peas and butter together, with the fingers, until wel! mixed, then, pour off the water, and put the peas into a stewpan, with a couple of cabbage-lettuces shred small, a faggot of green onions and parsley, a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and a little salt ; put the lid on, and set the peas to stew very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour : when done, if there appears to be much liquor, boil it down quickly over the fire. Next, put about two ounces of fresh butter on a plate, with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and knead them together; put this into the peas, and toss the whole together over the stove-fire until well mixed; dish the peas up, gar- nish round with fleurons, and serve. 1176. PEAS, A LA FRANCAISE. THeEsE must be prepared as above (No. 1175), omitting the lettuces; stew them in the same manner, and when done, add a little hght- coloured glaze, and finish with four ounces of kneaded butter and flour, with a httle more sugar than in fhe foregoing case. | 1177. TURNIPS, GLACES WITH SUGAR. Turn about two dozen pieces of turnips into the form of rings, about two inches in diameter, or else in the shape of small pears; put them into a deep sautapan, thickly spread with fresh butter, and strewn with about two ounces of pounded sugar; moisten with about half a pint of good consommé, and set the turnips to simmer very gently over a moderate stove-fire for about forty minutes; when they are nearly done, remove the lid, and place them over a brisk fire to boil the moisture down to glaze, gently rolling the turnips in this, with great care, to avoid breaking them. They must then be dished up in neat order, and the glaze poured over them. 1178. YOUNG CARROTS, A L’ALLEMANDE. Turn two bunches of spring carrots, keeping their original shape, but making them equal in size; parboil them in water with a little salt for about ten minutes; then drain them into a colander, and immerse them in cold water, afterwards drain them again, and lay them upon a napkin. Next, place the carrots in a deep sautapan, with two ounces of fresh butter, an equal proportion of loaf sugar, and about a pint of good consommé ; put the lid on, and set the carrots to boil very gently over a moderate stove-fire for about half an hour; then set them to boil briskly until their liquor is reduced to glaze, when they must be gently rolled in this, and dished up in a round- bottomed quart basin, so as to form a perfect dome when turned out upon the dish; pour round some Allemande sauce (No. 7), mixed with some chopped and parboiled parsley, also the remainder of their glaze over the carrots, and serve. CUCUMBERS, ETC. 309 1179. VEGETABLE-MARROW. Cor the vegetable-marrows, according to their size, nto four, six, or e.ght pieces, just as oranges are divided; peel and trim them neatly, place them in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter, and season with a very little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar; moisten with half a pint of white broth, and set them to boil gentiy over a stove-fire for about ten minutes; then boil them down in their glaze; toss them gently in this, and dish them up neatly in a conical form. Pour a little Espagnole sauce into the sauta- am and simmer it with the remainder of the glaze, mix in a pat of utter and the juice of half a lemon, pour this over the vegetable- marrow, and serve. 1180. ANOTHER METHOD. Trim the vegetable-marrows as above, boil them gently in water with a pat of butter and a little salt, drain and dish them up, pour some white sauce (No. 71) or Béchamel (No. 5) over them, and serve. 1181. CUCUMBERS, A LA POULETTE. Cur the cucumbers into scollops about an inch in diameter, put them into a basin with a table-spoonful of salt, and twice that propor- tion of vinegar, and allow them to steep in this for several hours. Then, pour off all the moisture from the cucumbers, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a very little grated nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and set them to simmer very gently over a slow fire until they become quite tender: this will require about halfan hour. The butter must then be poured off, and a gravy-spoonful of Velouté sauce (No. 4) added; simmer the eucumbers over the fire for a few minutes, finish by incorporating with them a leason of four yolks of eggs, mixed with half a gill of cream, a spoonful of chopped and parboiled parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; dish them up with a tories of flewrons, and serve. 1182. CUCUMBERS, A L’ESPAGNOLE. > Cur the cucumbers into lengths of about two inches, scoop out all the seeds, pare off the skins, and trim them round and smooth at the ends; parboil them in water and salt for five minutes, and then drain them upon a napkin. Fill each piece of cucumber with some quenelle force-meat of chicken (No. 242); then, place them in neat order in a deep sautapan, lined with thin layers of fat bacon, and cover them also with the same; moisten with consommé, and set them to simmer very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour; when they are become quite tender, drain them upon a cloth, dish them up in a pyra- midal form, pour some bright Espagnole sauce (No. 3) over them, aud serve. 1183. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A LA SAUCE. Wasu them thoroughly in plenty of water, peel or turn them in the form of large olives or small pears; boil them in water with a pat of butter and a little salt, for about a quarter of an hour; when done drain them upon a cloth, dish them up neatly, pour some butter sauce (No. 71) over them, and serve. 360 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. 1184, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A L’ITALIENNE. Turn the artichokes into any fancy shape, place them in circular order in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter; season with mignionette-pepper, nutmeg, salt, and lemon-juice ; moisten with a little consommé, put the lid on, set them to simmer very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour—during which time they will, if pro- perly attended to, acquire a deep-yellow colour. Roll them up in their glaze, dish them up, pour some Italan sauce (No. 12) round them, and serve. 1185. WHITE HARICOT-BEANS, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. THEsE are seldom to be met with in England, except in a dried state: when procurable, they should be treated in the following manner :— Put a large stewpan, half filled with water, on the stove-fire to boil; then throw in the beans, with a pat of butter and a little salt, and allow them to boil until they are become quite tender; drain them in a colander; then put them into a stewpan with about 6 oz. of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and lemon-juice ; toss them whole well together over a stove-fire, until well mixed; then, dish them up with créutons round them, and serve. Note.— When the haricot-beans are in a dried state, they should be steeped in cold water for six hours at least, previously to their being dressed for the table, and must be boiled in cold water; in all other respects, finish them in the above manner. 1186. WHITE HARICOT-BEANS, A LA BRETONNE. Boiz the haricot-beans as directed above, and when done, drain them in a colander, put them into a stewpan with some Brétonne sauce (No. 27), and set them to simmer over the stove-fire for five minutes ; toss them together, and dish them up as the above. 1187, AMERICAN YAMS, A LA FRANCAISE. Cur the yams into slices about half an inch thick, trim them into rather large oval-shaped scollops, and throw them into a panful of water; wash and drain them upon a cloth, then place them in circular order in a deep sautapan, thickly spread with 40z. of fresh butter, and season with a little grated nutmeg and salt; moisten with a pint of broth or water, put the lid on, and set them to simmer gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to turn them over, in order that they may acquire a bright-yellow glazed colour on both sides; dish them up in close circular order, peer up in rows; pour the following sauce under them and serve :—— ead two pats of fresh butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour, put it into a stewpan with a gill of cream, a spoonful of pounded sugar, a very little salt, and a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water; stir this over the fire until it thickens, and thén use it as directed. 1188. POTATOES, A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Tue small French kidney, or Vitelotte-potatoes, are best adapted for this purpose: boil or steam them in the ordinary way, and when done, cut them into slices about the eighth of an inch thick, put them inte POTATOES, ETC. 361 a stewpan with a ragout-spoonful of white sauce or broth, 4oz. of butter, some pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; toss them over the stove-fire until the butter, &c. is mixed in with the potatoes, then, dish them up with créutons ; round them, and serve. 1189. NEW POTATOES, A LA CREME. ; Cur some recently-boiled new potatoes in slices, put them into a stewpan with a gill of cream, 4 0z. of fresh butter, a very little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; set them to boil on the stove-fire, toss them well together, and dish them up with créutons, 1190. POTATOES, A LA CREME, AU GRATIN. Cur some boiled potatoes in slices, about an inch in diameter, pre- are the same kind of mixture as directed for cauliflowers au gratin (No. 1159): stick some neatly-cut pointed créutons of fried bread round the bottom of the dish, in the form of a coronet; place a close circular row of the slices of potatoes within this border of créutons ; spread a layer of the mixture over them: then, repeat the row of potatoes and the mixture until the dish is complete. Smooth the top over with some of the sauce, shake some fried bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over the surface, so as entirely to cover it: put the potatoes in the oven for about twenty minutes, to be warmed through, and serve. 1191. SEAKALE, A LA SAUCE. _ Tre the seakale up in small bundles, and put it in boiling water with a little salt: about twenty minutes will suffice to boil it tender: drain and dish it up on a piece of toast, and send some butter sauce (No. 71) separately in a boat. Note.-—Seakale may also be served with Lspagnole or Béchamel sauce, in which case it must be placed in the dish,and the Béchamel or ate sauce poured over it: if the latter, a pat of butter anda little lemon- juice should be first worked in with it. 1192. BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. Boi the sprouts green, put them into a stewpan with 4 oz. of fresh butter, some mignionette-pepper, nutmeg, salt, and lemon-juice, and a ragout-spoonful of Velouté sauce (No. 4); toss the whole well together over a stove-fire until the butter is incorporated with them; then, dish them up with a border of fleurons, and serve. ENTREMETS OF EGGS, ETU. COMPRISING Fggs, @ la Tripe. Eggs, a la Suisse. »» augratin. Maccaroni, @ ? Italiénne » Brouillés, with Truffles, &c. i with Cream, Omelet, with Fine-herbs. A au gratin. ‘ »» with Shalots, *m a la Florentine. » with Parmesan Cheese. Nouilles, a la Palerme. », with Kidneys. 35 ad la Vanille, 3, With Oysters. Indian Sandwiches. Poached Eggs, with Anchovy Toast. Anchovy Sandwiches é with Ham. Italian Salad. Eggs, d la Dauphine. Russian Salad, » a? Aurore. German Salad. » with Nutbrown Butter. Noukles, or Niocht, ad la Viennosse. 1193. EGGS, A LA TRIPE. Born eight eggs hard, immerse them in cold water for three minutes, take off the shells, cut them in rather thick slices, and put these into a stewpan. Next, cut three small onions in slices, separating the folds in rings; these must be first parboiled in water, and then after being boiled in white broth, should be drained on a sieve and placed with the eggs; add two ragout-spoonfuls of good Béechamel sauce (No. 5), as much garlic as can be held on the point of a knife, a pinch of mignionette-pepper, a little nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon: toss the whole together over the stove-fire, and when the eggs are quite hot, dish them up in a conical form; garnish round with crdutons or jfieurons, and serve. 1194. EGGS, AU GRATIN. . Bouin the eggs hard, and when done, take off the shells, eut them in slices, and set them aside on a plate. Next, put a large ragout-spoonful — of white sauce into a stewpan to boil over the stove-fire, and when it is sufficiently reduced, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small pat of butter, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of half a lemon; stir this quickly over the stove until it begins to thicken, and then withdraw it from the fire. Place the eggs in close circular rows in the dish, spread some of the preparation in between each layer, observing that the whole must be dished up in the form of a dome; smooth the surface over with the remainder of the sauce, strew some fried bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese over the top, put some fried créutons of bread or flewrons round the base, and set them in the oven to bake, or gratinate for about ten minutes, then send to table. 1195. EGGS, BROUILLES, WITH TRUFFLES. Break eight new-laid eggs into a stewpan, to these add four ounces of fresh butter, two ounces of truffles (cut up in very small dice, and simmered in a little butter), a gill of cream, a small piece of glaze, a OMELETS, 363 little nutmeg, -nignionette-pepper, and salt; stir this quickly with a - wooden spoon over the stove-fire until the eggs, &c., begin to thicken, when the stewpan must be withdrawn; continue to work the eggs with the spoon, observing, that although they must not be allowed to become hard, as in that case the preparation would be curdled and rendered unsightly, yet they must be sufficiently set, so as to be fit to be dished up: to effect this it is necessary to stick the créutons or fleurons round the inner circle of the dish with a little flower and white of-egg paste; dish up the eggs in the centre of these, and serve. 1196. OMELET, WITH FINE-HERBS. Break six eggs in a basin, to these add half.a gill of cream, a small pat of butter broken in small pieces, a spoonful of chopped parsley, some pepper and salt; then put four ounces of fresh butter in an omelet-pan on the stove-fire; while the butter is melting, whip the eges, &c., well together until they become frothy; as soon as the butter begins to fritter, pour the eggs into the pan, and stir the omelet, as the eggs appear to set and become firm ; when the whole has become partially set, roll the omelet into the form of an oval cushion, allow it to acquire a golden colour on one side, over the fire, and then turn it out on its dish; pour a little thin Hspagnole sauce, or half- glaze under it, and serve. 1197a. OMELET, WITH SHALOTS. Prepare and finish this omelet, in all respects like the foregoing, except that some chopped shalots must be added to the parsley. 11975. OMELET, WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. BreEax six eggs into a basin, then add a gill of cream, four ounces of erated Parmesan cheese, some mignionette-pepper and a little salt; beat the whole well together, and finish the omelet as previously directed. 1198. OMELET, WITH KIDNEYS. Frrst prepare the kidneys with fine herbs (No. 876) ; then, make an omelet as directed for “ Omelet with Fine-herbs’” (No. 1196), and when it is fried, before folding it up, place the prepared kidneys in it; roll it wp into shape, dish it up with a little half-glaze round the base, and serve. 1199. OMELET, WITH OYSTERS. Tats is made in the same manner as the foregoing, merely substi- tuting some oysters, prepared as for scollops (No. 538), for the kidneys. 7 1200. POACHED EGGS, WITH ANCHOVY TOAST. First, break some new-laid eggs into separate small cups, or dariole- moulds; then, drop them one after the other into a stewpan contain- ing boiling water mixed with a table-spoonful of white vinegar and a little salt; keep this boiling while the eggs are being dropped in at the side of the stewpan, and when they have boiled for two minutes, drain them on a napkin, trim them and place each egg upon a square or oval piece of dry toast, spread with anchovy butter (No. 179), over 364 ENTREMETS OF EGGS. which have been laid some thin fillets of anchovies; dish these up m a close circle, pour a little half-glaze under them, place a pinch mignionette-pepper in the centre of each egg, and serve. 1201. POACHED EGGS, WITH HAM. Poacu the eggs as in the foregoing case, and when done, dish them up on thin oval scollops of fried ham; pour some thin Powvrade sauce (No. 29) under them, and serve. 1202. EGGS, A LA DAUPHINE. Bott ten eggs hard, take off the shells, and cut each egg into halves, lengthwise ; scoop the yolks out and put them into the mortar, and place the whites on a dish. Add four ounces of butter to the yolks of eges, also the crumb of a French-roll soaked in cream, some chopped arsley, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and two ounces of grated Fdttntbatl cheese; pound the whole well together, and then add one whole egg and the yolks of two others; mix these well together by pounding, and use this preparation for filling the whites of eggs kept in reserve for the purpose: smooth them over with the blade of a small knife dipped im water, and as they are filled, place them on a dish. Next, with some of the remaining part of the PuRny spread a thin foundation at the bottom of the dish, and proceed to raise the eggs up, in three or four tiers, to a pyramidal form, a single egg crowning the whole: four hard-boiled yolks of eggs must then be rubbed through a wire sieve, over the entreméts, for them to fall upon in shreds, like vermicelli; place a border of fried créutons of bread round the base, and set the eggs in the oven for about twenty minutes, that they may be baked of a bright-yellow colour; when ~ done, withdraw them, pour some thin Béchamel round the entreméts, and serve. 1203. EGGS, A L’ AURORE. Bort the eggs hard, remove the shells, and cut each egg into halves, lengthwise; take the yolks out and place them on a dish, shred the whites up in fine strips and put these ito a stewpan with some Aurora sauce (No. 41), toss them over the fire until quite hot, and then dish them up in the centre of a border of créutons previously stuck round the bottom of the dish. First place a layer of the whites, then shake a little grated Parmesan cheese, after which rub some of the yolks through a wire sieve upon this, and so on, repeating the same until the whole is used up, finishing with the yolks of eggs, resembling vermicelli. Put the entreméts in the oven to be baked of a bright-yellow colour, and then serve. 1204. EGGS, WITH NUTBROWN BUTTER. Pur four ounces of butter into an omelet-pan over the fire: as soon as it begins to fritter, break the eggs in to it, without disturbing the yolks ; season with pepper and salt, fry the eggs over the fire for five minutes, and then remove them gently on to their dish. Next, put two ounces more butter into the pan, fry it of a brown. colour, then add two table-spoonfuls of French vinegar, boil the whcle together for two minutes, pour it over the eggs, and serve. MACCARONI. 365 1205. EGGS, A LA SUISSE. | Spreav the bottom of a silver dish with two ounces of fresh butter, - cover this with rather thin slices of fresh Gruyere cheese, break eight whole eggs upon the cheese, without disturbing the yolks; season with grated nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, and salt; pour a gill of double cream on the suriace, strew the top with about two ounces of grated Gruyere cheese, and set the eggs in the oven to bake for about a quarter of an hour: pass the hot salamander over the top, and serve with strips of very thin dry toast separately on a plate. 1205. MACCARONI, A L’ITALIENNE. Break up the maccaroniin three-inch lengths, and put it on to boil in hot water, with a pat of butter, a little mignionette-pepper and salt; when done, drain it on a napkin, and as soon as the moisture is ab- sorbed, dish it up in the following manner :—First, put two large ragout-spoonfuls of good tomata sauce into a stewpan, and boil it over the stove-fire ; then add two pats of fresh butter with as much glaze, and work the whole well together; next, strew a layer of the macca- roni on the bottom of the dish, then pour some of the sauce over it, and strew some grated Parmesan cheese over this: and so on, repeat- ing the same until the dish is full enough; strew some grated cheese over the top, put the maccaroni in the oven for five minutes, and then serye while it is quite hot. 1207. MACCARONI, WITH CREAM. Boin one pound of maccaroni, and when done, cut it up in three- inch lengths, and put it into a stewpan, with four ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a similar quantity of Gruyere cheese also grated, and a gill of good cream; leason with mignionette-pepper and salt, and toss the whole well together over the stove-fire until well mixed and quite hot, then shake it up for a few minutes to make the cheese spin, so as to give it a fibrous appearance, when drawn up with afork. The maccaroni, when dished up, must be garnished round the base with fleurons of pastry, and then served. 1208. MACCARONI, AU GRATIN. Cur the maccaroz: up as above, put it into a stewpan with three- quarters of a pound of grated cheese (Parmesan and Gruyere in equal quantities), four ounces of fresh butter, and a ragout-spoonful of good Béchamel sauce ; season with mignionette-pepper and salt, toss the whole together over the fire until well mixed, then pile it up in the centre of a border of fried créutons of bread (previously stuck round the bot- tom of the dish) ; strew the surface with fine bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions; run a little melted butter through the holes of a spoon, over the top of the maccaroni, and then put it in the oven to be baked of a bright-yellow colour; it should then be served quite hot. 1209. TIMBALE OF MACCARONI, A LA FLORENTINE. Decorate a plain mould with some nouiilles paste (No. 1256), mixed with a little sugar; then line the mould with some thin strips of fine short paste (No. 1253), which must be placed exactly in the sams 366 “wNTREMETS OF EGGS. manner as when lining a charlotte-mould with bread ; fill the #mbale with flour, cover it in with some of the paste, and bake it for about one hour; it must then be again emptied, and all the flour brushed out with a paste-brush, put back into the mould, and kept in the screen until wanted. While the timbale is bemg made, parboil half a pound of Naples maccaroni in water for a quarter of an hour, then drain it on a sieve, and afterwards put it into a stewpan with a pat of butter, a pint of milk, and the same quantity of cream, four ounces of sugar, a stick of vanilla, and a very little salt; then set the maccaroni to boil very gently over a slow fire until it is thoroughly done—by which time the maccaroni will have entirely absorbed the milk, &c., then add about one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; toss the whole well together over the fire, remove the stick of vanilla, and fill the timbale with the maccaroni; then turn it out of the mould on to its dish, shake over it some finely-pounded sugar, glaze it with the hot salamander; and send to table. 1210. NOUILLES, A LA PALERME, Make three-quarters of a pound of nouzlles (No. 1867), parboil them in water with a pat of butter and a little salt for about ten minutes ; then drain them on a sieve, and afterwards put them in a stewpan with a pint of chicken-broth, a pat of butter, a little grated nutmeg, mignionette-pepper and salt ; place a circular piece of buttered paper on the top, put the lid on, and then set the nowilles over a slow fire, to boil very gently until the whole of the broth has been absorbed. Next, adda gill of cream, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two pats of butter, and a small piece of glaze; toss the whole well together over the fire, and then pile them up in the centre of a border of créutons previously stuck round the bottom of the dish; shake some vermicellied yolks of eggs, and some grated Parmesan cheese over the surface, put the entreméts in the oven to be baked of a fine bright-yellow colour, and send to table. 1211. TIMBALE OF NOUILLES, A LA VANILLE. Pargort the nouilles in water for ten minutes, then drain them on a sieve, and afterwards put them in a stewpan with a pint of cream, a table-spoonful of pounded vanilla,a pat of butter, six ounces of. sugar, and a little sait; cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper, and put on the lid; then set them on a slow fire to boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the cream will be ab- sorbed by the nouilles; add the yolks of six eggs, and mix the whole well together. Next, spread a plain round or oval mould with butter, roli some nouilles paste out on the slab with the fingers, and use this for the purpose of lining the mould with—coiled round as closely as possible, thus forming a kind of timbale ; fill this with the prepared nouilles, place it on a baking-sheet, and put it in the oven to be baked of a fine light colour; when it is done, turn the ¢imbale out of the mould on to its dish, shake some fine-sifted sugar over it, glaze it with the red-hot salamander, and serve. 1212. INDIAN SANDWICHES. Cur the breast of a roast fowl or pheasant in very small square, dice-like pieces, and place these on a plate ; take about four ounces of ITALIAN SALAD. S67 red tongue or lean ham, and four anchovies (previously washed and filleted), cut these also in small dice, and place them with the chicken. Next, put two ragout-spoonfuls of Velouté sauce, and a dessert-spoonful of curry-paste into a stewpan, boil these over the stove, stirring it meanwhile, until reduced to the consistency of a thick sauce; then add the chicken, &c., and the juice of half a lemon, mix the whole well together, and use this preparation in the following manner :— : Cut some thin slices of the crumb of a sandwich-loaf, and with a circular tin-cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, stamp out two dozen créutons ; fry these in clarified butter to a bright-yellow colour, drain them on a napkin, and place one-half on a baking-sheet covered with clean paper; spread a thick layer of the above preparation on each of these, and then cover them with the remaining twelve créutons. Next, grate four ounces of fresh Parmesan, and mix this with a pat of butter into a paste, divide it in twelve parts, roll each into a round ball, and piace one of these on the top of each sandwich; about ten minutes before sending to table, put them in the oven to be warmed thoroughly, pass the red-hot salamander over them, to colour them of a bright yellow, dish them up on a napkin, and serve. 1213. ANCHOVY SANDWICHES. * OrpeEr a dozen very small round rolls, rasp them all over, cut off _ the top, remove all the crumb, place them on a dish, and set them aside. Next, chop four hard-boiled eggs very fine, and put this into a small basin with a table-spoonful of chopped tarragon, chervil, chives, and burnet; season with four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, one ditto of French-vinegar, pepper and a little salt; mix the whole well together, and use this preparation for filing the rolls with; then, place some small fillets of anchovies (previously prepared) over the sandwiches, at about one-eighth of an inch distant from each other, and place another row of fillets across these at a similar distance. Dish the sandwiches up on a napkin, in the form of a pyramid, and serve. 1214. ITALIAN SALAD. Bort two heads of fine white cauliflower, a similar portion of asparagus-points, French-beans cut in diamonds, a few new potatoes, | (which after being bciled must be stamped out with a small vegetable cutter), half a pint of green-peas, and three artichoke-bottoms, also eut up in small faney shapes when boiled. All these vegetables must be prepared with great attention, in order that they may retain their original colour; the cauliflowers should be cut up in small buds or flowerets, and the whole, when done, put into a convenient-sized basin. ‘ Next, boil two large red beetroots, six large new potatoes, and twenty large-sized heads of very green asparagus, or a similar quantity of French-beans ; cut the beetroot and potatoes in two-inch lengths, and with atin vegetable cutter, a quarter of an inch in diameter, punch out about two dozen small pillar-shaped pieces of each, and ut these on a dish, with an equal quantity of asparagus-heads or rench-beans, cut to the same length. Then, take a plain border- mould, and place the green vegetables in neat and close maltat all round the bottom of the mould; observing that a small quantity of aspic- * Note. The finest Gorgona anchovies are imported by Crosse and BLACKWELL, Soho Square, 368 | ENTREMETS OF EGGS. jelly must be first poured in the mould, for the purpose of causmg the pieces of French-beans to hold together. Next, line the sides of the mould, by placing the pieces of beetroot and potatoes alternately, each of which must be first dipped in some bright aspic-jelly, pre- viously to its being placed in the mould; when the whole is complete, fill the border up with aspic-jelly. Preparatory to placing the vegetables, the mould must be partially immersed in some pounded rough ice, contained in a basin or pan. When about to send this entreméts to table, turn the vegetable bor- der out of the mould on to its dish; after the vegetables before alluded to haye been seasoned, by adding to them a ragout-spoonful of aspic- jelly, three table-spoonfuls of oil, one of tarragon-vinegar, some pepper and salt, and when the whole have been gently tossed together they should be neatly placed in the centre of the border, in a pyra- midal form. Ornament the base of the entreméts with bold créutons of bright aspic-jelly, and serve. 1215. RUSSIAN SALAD. Frrst, cut a lobster in neat thin scollops, and place them in a basin ; to these add some scolloped fillets of anchovies, about one pound of thunny cut up into scollops, the tails of two dozen crayfish, a similar quantity of prawns’ tails, two dozen olives farcies, and a good table- spoonful of French capers; then add a sufficient quantity of red Mayonnaise sauce (No. 99) to moisten these ingredients; mix the whole together gently, and use this preparation to fill a border of vegetables similar to that described in the foregoing article. Finish the entreméts in the same manner, and serve. 1216. GERMAN SALAD. Remove the skin from the fillets of three Dutch herrings, cut these up into pieces an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide, and put them into a basin ; witha sharp knife shave some very thin slices from one pound of Hambro’ beef (previously parboiled in water for about half an hour), and add them to the pieces of herrings; to these must also be put two dozen turned olives, some white and red beetroot; (baked), cut or stamped out in fancy shapes, in the proportion of one- fourth part of the whole of the ingredients, two dozen crayfish-tails, and some curled celery; then add sufficient Rémoulade sauce (No. 95) to moisten the whole, and use this preparation to fill a vegetable border as directed in the foregoing articles. 1217. NOUKLES, A LA VIENNOISE. Por half a pint of consommé into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and a little pepper and salt; set this over the stove, and as soon as it begins tv simmer, throw in about six ounces of sifted flour to thicken the preparation into a soft paste, and keep stirring this over the fire for about three minutes, by which time the paste wili cease to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; add two whole eggs, and four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and work the whole tho- roughly together until well mixed, then add a gill of whipped cream and another egg; mix these in with the paste, and mould it with two tea-spoons into small quenelles ; when this 1s done, place them in close - Z COLD ENTREES. 369. order on a stewpan-cover previously spread with butter, and when - about meet them, they must be slipped off into some boiling con- sommé, aiter gently boiling for about ten minutes, drain them on a sieve, and place them in a deep silver dish or soufile-lining. Pour sufficient thin bright Mspagnole sauce over them to reach the surface, sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, and set the nousles in the oven to simmer for about twenty minutes ; just before sending to table, pass the red-hot salamander over the surface to give them a bright-yellow colour, and serve. Noukles are mostly served immediately after the fish, bot are algo suited for the second course ; they may also be dressed with Allemande sauce instead of Hspagnole, when preferred. COLD ENTREES FOR BALL SUPPERS, &c, COMPRISING Aspic-Jelly. Potted Pheasants, d la Royale, Fricassee of Chickens, with Aspic-Jelly. Potted Fow] and Tongue. Salmis of Partridges. 5» Lobster. Mayonaise of Fillets of Soles, &c. » Prawns or Shrimps. ess of Chickens, 5, Yarmouth Bloaters. Darne, or Slice of Salmon, dla Montpellier. Galantine of Poulard, with Jelly. Trout, d la Vertpré. Boar’s Head, with Aspic-Jelly. Chicken Salad. Chickens, d la Belle- Vue. Lobster Salad, Lamb Cutlets, ¢ la Princesse. Tongue, with Aspic-Jelly. Fillets of Fowls, @ la Victoria. Ham, with ditto. Sandwiches, ¢@ la Régence. - «aspic of Fowl, d la Reine. * of Fillets of Soles, &c. 1218. ASPIC JELLY. Take about thirty pounds of knuckle of fresh veal, wash the meat in plenty of water, and put it into a stock-pot, with four hens, and eighteen calves’-feet previously boned, and parboiled in water for ten minutes ; fill up the stock-pot with about four gallons of spring water, and set it on a stove-fire to boil; as the scum rises to the surface re- move it with a skimmer, and keep pouring in small quantities of cold water, to check the boiling occasionally, so as to enable the albumen (which forms the white scum), when effectually dissolved by the heat of the water, to be thrown up in larger quantities than would be the case if the process is hurried; otherwise the aspic so prepared would be more difficult to clarify. The aspic being well skimmed, should then be garnished with four carrots, three large onions stuck with two cloves each, four heads of celery, two cloves of garlic, a large faggot of parsley and green-onions, with two bay-leaves, and a large sprig of thyme ; four blades of mace and a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns. Next, set the stock-pot down by the side of the stove-fire, to boil very gently for about six hours; all the grease should then be carefully removed from the top, and the aspic strained through a broth napkin into large kitchen basins, and put away in the larder to cool. When the aspic has become firm, scrape off the grease from the surface, and run a. 2 8B cae be) 370 COLD ENTREES little boiling water upon the top, to wash away any that remams, throw this water off, and with a clean cloth absorb all the remaining moisture. The aspic must now be put into a large stewpan, and set to boil on a brisk stove-fire, and then removed to the side that it may throw up its scum for ten minutes; this should be removed as it rises, and the aspic must afterwards be allowed partially to cool, preparatory to its being clarified ; for which purpose, put into a stewpan the whites of six eggs, four whole eggs, about one pound of fresh veal, as much game or fowl, perfectly free from bone, sinew, or fat, and thoroughly pounded in a mortar; to these add a bottle of French or Rhenish white wine, and a little spring water; whisk the whole well together until thoroughly mixed, then add this preparation to the aspic, and continue whisking the whole together over a brisk stove-fire until the egos, &c., begin to coagulate; then, immediately pour in the juice of six lemons mixed with a little spring water, and remove the aspic to the side of the stove-fire ; put the lid on the stewpan, place some live embers of charcoal upon it, and leave it to simmer very gently for about half an hour. Next, pour it into a flannel jelly-bag, prepared in the usual way to receive it, and keep pouring the jelly through the bag for a few minutes, when it will become perfectly bright, then allow it to run into the basin until the whole has passed. Pour the aspic iuto deep sautapans or stewpans, and set it in the larder to be- come firm. Care should be taken throughout the process to avoid putting anything into the aspic that would be likely to prevent it from becoming of a pale straw colour: half may be coloured of a darker shade, by mixing in with it a few drops of caramel or brown- ing.* Previously to mixing the eggs, &c., with the aspic, a small quantity should be put into a dariole-mould upon the ice to prove its strength ; as although it is necessary (especially during hot weather), that all iellies should contain a large proportion of gelatine, yet, if this pre- dominate, the jelly becomes very difficult to clarify. 1219. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, WITH ASPIC-JELLY. Prepare a fricassee of chickens, as directed in No. 968; keep the pieces of chickens separate from the sauce, which must be rather stiffly reduced, previously to incorporating the leason of eggs in it; and when this has been done, add about one-third of its quantity of aspic jelly ; stir them together on the ice, and when well mixed, dip. the pieces of chicken in it, and dish them up as you proceed. The entrée should be raised in a conical form, and neatly masked with the remainder of the sauce, so as to detach each piece of chicken in relief. Place some fine cocks’-combs, white button-mushrooms, and glazed truffles in the cavities; surmount the whole with a large trufile, in which a large white cock’s-comb has been inserted, garnish the base with some chopped jelly, rolled with the blade of a knife in the form of a thick cord, arid place a border of angular or fancy-shaped créutons of bright aspic-jelly round this. * This is made by baking some sugar na small copper pan, and allowing it to boil down very gradually over a slow fire, until it becomes a very dark brown in colour; some cold water must then be added to melt the caramel, and after it has boiled up, it should: be kept in a small bottle for usa, MAYONAISE OF CHICKENS, 371 1220. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH ASPIC JELLY. Prepake the salmis as directed in No. 1078, keep the pieces of partridges separate from the sauce, which, when partially cold, must be mixed with one-third of its quantity of aspic jelly, and gently stirred on the ice, until it assumes sufficient body to admit of its being used for masking the pieces of partridges with: these must be raised on their dish in a pyramidal form; pour the remainder of the sauce over the entrée, which should be garnished in the same manner as the foregoing. Note.—Salmis of pheasants, woodcocks, quails, &c., are prepared for ball-suppers, and similar entertainments, in the same way as partridges. 1221. MAYONAISE OF FILLETS OF SOLES, ETC. Trim the fillets of three soles, simmer them in a sautapan with 2 oz. of butter, pepper, salt and lemon-juice ; when done, put them in press between earthen dishes, and as soon as they are cold, divide each fillet into three scollops, trim the ends round, put them into a basin with a little oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, and let them steep in this. Next, prepare an aspic border-mould, in the following manner :— Pound some rough ice fine, and put it mto a deep pan; imbed the mould partially in this, pour a-small quantity of aspic-jelly in the bottom of the mould, to the depth of about the eighth of an inch, and upon this place a decoration, made as follows:—Cut some black truffles and boiled white of eggs, in very thin slices; stamp these out into the-form of rings, diamonds, leaves, &c., and arrange them with taste on the surface of the jelly; when this is complete, the decoration must be covered in with a spoonful of aspic jelly, poured over with great care, so as not to disturb it: as soon as this has become set, fill the mould up with aspic,and when that also has become set, turn the border out of the mouldonitsdish. Fill the centre with the fillets of soles (previously drained upon a napkin), neatly piled. up in a conical form, pour some green Mayonaise sauce (No. 98) over them, garnish the base of the fillets with a neat border of trimmed prawns’-tails, and crown the Mayonaise with the white-heart of a cab- bage-lettuce, stuck into half an egg, boiled hard. Note—-Fillets of turbot, salmon, trout, mackerel} or gurnets, may be treated as the above; the sauce can be varied according to Nos. 97 and 99, and may also be garnished round the base of the fillets, either with plover’s-eges cut, crayfish-tails, or quarters of the white- hearts of cabbage-lettuces. Some shred lettuce, seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, nay first be placed at the bottom of the aspic- rder, to pile the fillets upon. zee, 2 372 COLD ENTREES. 1222. MAYONAISE OF CHICKENS, Roast two chickens, and when cold, cut them up into small joints remove the skin, trim them neatly and steep them in a basin witk oul, vinegar, pepper and salt. Pre- pare a decorated aspic-border, as directed in the preceding article ; when this has been turned out on its dish, pile up the pieces of chickens in the centre upon some shred lettuces in a conical form; mask them with some white May- onaise sauce (No. 97), garnish with lettuce-hearts and quarters of ege ‘ myZZ boiled hard, or with plover’s-eggs ; QU] tannery crown the Mayonaise with some hGinaiea chopped aspic, or a créuton of — : jelly... | 1223. DARNE, OR SLICE OF SALMON, A LA MONTPELLIER. Procure a prime cut (four inches thick) from an unsplit salmon of good size; slip the blade of a sharp knife under the skin, and detach this without removing it; fill out the vent with a piece of carrot covered with fat bacon; wrap the slice of salmon in layers of fat bacon, and tie them on with string. Place the fish on its drainer in a stewpan, moisten with some mirepoic (No. 236), and set it to boil very gently over a moderate fire for about three-quarters of an hour; then remove it, and allow the fish to remain in its own liquor until it is nearly cold; drain it upon an earthen dish, and set it aside to become firm. The darne must then be freed from its skin, &c., trimmed, and lightly masked over with glaze mixed with some lob- ster-coral. Cut out a round or oval piece of crumb of bread, about the size of the salmon, and an inch thick, and fry it of a light colour ; spread this all over with some Montpellier butter (No. 183), smooth the surface with a knife dipped in warm water, and put it on the bottom of the dish intended to receive the salmon. Next place the darne of salmon upon this, and spread the upper part with rather a thin coating of the Montpellier butter, which, after being smoothed over, must be decorated with a bold wreath of roses or laurels, com- posed of black truffles. Ornament the entrée with aspic-jelly, by placing fancy-shaped créutons of this round the base. 1224, TROUT, A LA VERTPRE. Born three small trout in some mirepoix (No. 236), and when cold, remove the skins; spread them over completely with a thin coating r LOBSTER SALAD. 373 of Montpellier butter (No. 183), and mark out the mouth, gills, and the eyes, with some narrow strips of black truffles; then, cut some of these into thin slices, and after- wards stamp them outwith a cir- { cular tin-cutter, in the form of f half-moons, and proceed so to ar- § range them upon the trout, as to imitate fish scales. Prepare a foundation of fried bread, covered withMontpellier butter,as directed in the preceding case ; place it on the dish, arrange the trout upon it in arow, and ornament them with a rich border of aspic créutons. 1225. CHICKEN SALAD. Prepare the chickens as directed for a Mayonaise (No. 1222). Pile the pieces of chicken up in the dish, upon a bed of seasoned shred let- tuces, in a conical form; pour some white Mayonaise sauce (No. 97) over the pieces, place a border of hard eggs cut in quarters, and hearts of cabbage-lettuces round the base; stick a white-heart of a lettuce on the top, and serve. Note.—Chicken-salads may also be ornamented and garnished with plover’s-eggs, decorated with truffles; and with eggs boiled hard, cut in quarters, aud ornamented either with thin fillets of anchovies and capers, or coloured butter, either lobster coral (No. 182), or green Ravigotte (No. 185), or with tarragon or chervil-leaves, laid flat on the eges, or else stuck in the point. 1226. LOBSTER SALAD. Break the shells, and remove the meat whole from the tails and claws of the lobsters ; put this into a basin, with a little oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, and reserve the pith and coral to make some lob- ster-butter (No. 182), which is to be thus used :—First, spread a cir- cular foundation of the lobster- butter upon the bottom of the dish, about seven inches in dia- meter, and the fourth part of an inch thick; then, scoop out the centre, leaving a circular band. Drain the lobster on a cloth, cut the pieces in oval scollops, and with some of the butter (to stick the pieces firmly together), pile the lobster up in three successive rows, the centre being left hollow ; fill this with shred lettuce, or salad of 374 COLD ENTREES. any kind seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt; pour some scarlet Remoulade (No. 95) or Mayonaise sauce (No. 100) over the salad, without masking the pieces of lobster; garnish the base with a border of hearts of lettuces, divided in halves, and around these place a border of plover’s-eggs, having a small sprig of green tarragon stuck into the pointed end of each; place a white-heart of lettuce on the top, and serve. | 1227. TONGUE, WITH ASPIC-JELLY. Row an iron skewer through the root of a pickled tongue; tie some string round the point of the skewer, and fasten it at the other end, thus giving to the tongue the form of an arch. Boil the tongue for about three hours; when done, immerse it in cold water, and pull off the outer skin. Then, truss the tongue afresh, in the form of an arch, put it in press, sideways, between two dishes, and when cold, trim it smooth; or with a small sharp knife, carve the surface, so as to represent leaves and flowers; glaze it over brightly, and place it upon its dish. Finally, garnish and ornament the tongue with asnic- jelly (No. 1218), and serve. 1228. HAM, WITH ASPIC-JELLY. Bratz a ham as directed in (No. 646), trim and glaze it accord- ingly, dish it up, and garnish with aspic-jelly, according to the design represented in the above wood-cut. . 1229. ASPIC OF FOWL, A LA REINE. Roast off two fowls, and use them to make some purée la Reine (No. 779) ; mix this with a ragout- spoonful of good Béchamel sauce (No. 5), and about one-third part of strong aspic-jelly (No. 1218), and work the whole well together in a stewpan upon some rough ice. While this is going on, a plain vound or oval mould should be decorated with black truffles and red tongue, in the following man- ner :—First, place the mould upon some pounded rough ice, quite straight ; then, pour about a table- spoonful of bright aspic-jelly over the bottom, and when this has become set, place on it a bold decora- POTTED GAME AND SHELLFISH. 375 tion, formed with leaves, rings, dots, crescents, &c.,cut out of truffles and tongue, and arranged so as to represent a circular wreath, with a star or scroll in the centre. Decorate the sides of the mould in the same manner, dipping each piece of the decoratiu.. in a little melted aspic- jelly, to make it adhere to the mould; when the decoration is com- pleted, fill the mould up with the prepared purée, and imbed the mould in ice to set the aspic. When it has become quite firm, dip the mould in tepid water for a few seconds, instantly withdraw it, wipe | it with a clean cloth, and turn it out upon its dish. Garnish the aspic round with a roll of chopped aspic-jelly, place some créutons round the base, and serve. Note.—The above may be made also with pheasant, partridge, or any other kind of game. 1230. POTTED PHEASANTS, A LA ROYALE. Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and braize it with 1 lb. of ham, in some well-seasoned wine mirepoia (No. 236); when done, drain them upon a dish, strain their liquor into a stewpan, and when divested of all the grease, boil it down to glaze. Meanwhile, chop and pound all the meat from the pheasant with the ham, and add to these 6 oz. of clarified fresh butter, a ragout-spoonful of good sauce, and the glaze: season with Cayenne pepper, a little nutmeg and salt, pound the whole thoroughly, and rub this preparation through a fine wire-sieve on to a dish. Next, fill some small round or oval earthenware potting-pans with this preparation, smooth the surface over with a spoon dipped in - water, place them in a covered stewpan, and submit them to the action of steam for about half an hour. The potted pheasant must then be allowed to cool; then, with the bowl of a spoon, press down the meat in the pots, wipe them’clean, and run a little clarified fresh butter over the surface. Note —All kinds of game should be potted in the above manner, and will then keep fresh-flavoured for months. For those who ap- prove of it, more spice and aromatic herbs may be added; but it should be observed, that an immoderate use of these impairs the flavour of the game. 1231. POTTED FOWL AND TONGUE. PaReE off all the meat from a roast fowl, chop and pound it tho- roughly with about one pound of boiled red tongue or dressed ham ; add six ounces of clarified fresh butter, three ounces of good glaze (made with the bones of the fowl), and a gravy-spoonful of good Béchamel sauce (No. 5); season with Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and salt; and when the whole has been thoroughly mixed by pounding, rub the produce through a fine wire-sieve, and then finish this as directed for the potted pheasant. 1232. POTTED LOBSTER. Lozsters for potting must be quite fresh. Take the meat, pith, and coral out of the shells; cut this up im slices, and put the whole into a stewpan with one-third part of clarified fresh butter, and to every pound of lobster, add four whole anchovies (washed and wiped dry); season with mace, pepper-corns, and a little salt, then put the lid on the stewpan, and set the lobster to simmer very gently over a 376 COLD ENTREES. slow fire for about a quarter of an hour. After this, it must be tho- roughly pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a sieve, put into small pots, steamed, and when cold, should be pressed down with the bowl of a spoon, and the surface covered with a little clarified butter. 1233. POTTED PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS. Prox one pound of fresh-boiled prawns or shrimps, and reserve the neads and shells; pound them in a mortar with four anchovies (pre- viously washed and wiped dry for the purpose), and then rub the whole through a hair-sieve, and put the produce, with the picked shrimps into a stewpan with six ounces of clarified fresh butter ; season with some grated nutmeg, Cayenne pepper, and a little salt; simmer the whole together over a slow fire for about ten minutes, then toss the shrimps in the seasoning occasionally, until they be- come nearly cold; they must then be put into pots, with a little clarified butter poured over the surface, and set aside in a cool place, for use. 1234. POTTED YARMOUTH BLOATERS, Taxs six fresh-cured bloaters, immerse them in scalding water, and. remove the skins ; wipe them dry, take out the bones, and put the fillets of the herrings into a stewpan with half a pound of clarified fresh butter, a blade of mace, and enough cayenne to season them ; set this on a slow fire to simmer for about ten minutes, then tho- roughly pound the whole well together in a mortar, and rub it through a sieve. Put this preparation into pots, run a little clarified butter over the surface, and keep them in a cool place for use. Note-—Smoked, or kippered salmon, or Finnan haddocks, may be potted in the same way as the foregoing. By submitting any of the above-described potted shell-fish, &c., to the action of steam, a suffi- cient time for the meat to be thoroughly penetrated by the heat, they may keep good for months. Much will, however, depend on the freshness of the butter used in this preparation: should it become rancid, as frequently happens after keeping for a few weeks, it will, of course, considerably impair the flavour of the potted fish. 1235. GALANTINE OF POULARD, WITH ASPIC-JELLY. Cxor up one pound of white veal, with the same quantity of fat bacon, and season with chopped mushrooms, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and aromatic seasoning (No. 1250) ; when these are chopped quite fine, pound the whole in a mortar, with the yolks of three eggs, and remove the force-meat into a basin. Peel one pound of trufiles, and cut up a boiled red tongue, and about one pound of fat bacon or boiled calf’s udder, into long narrow fillets, about a quarter of an inch square. Next, bone a fine poulard, and draw the skin from the legs and pinions, inside; then, spread the poulards out upon a napkin, and with a sharp knife, pare off some part of the fillets, to cover the thinner parts of the skin ; season slightly with pepper, salt, and aromatic spices ; spread a layer of the prepared force-meat, about an inch thick, then place the fillets of tongue and bacon upon this, about an inch apart, and insert rows of trufiles between these; after which, spread another layer of force-meat over the whole, then repeat the tongue and trufiles, and so on, until a sufficient quantity of both has been placed in the »ouwlard. BOAR'S HEAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY. 377 It must then be sewn up the back, placed upon a napkin thickly spread with butter, rolled up tightly, and fastened at each end with string ; thus giving to the galantine the appearance of a cushion. This must be then put into an oval stewpan with the carcasses and any trimmings of veal or poultry that may be at hand, also two calves’-feet, two carrots, two onions stuck with four cloves, a faggot of parsley garnished with green onions, two bay-leaves, sweet-basil and thyme, two blades of mace, and a dozen pepper-corns; moisten with two glasses of brandy, and set the pan over a stove-fire to simmer for five. minutes, then moisten the galantine with as much white stock as will suffice to cover it, and put it back on the stove-fire to boil; it must then be placed on a very slow stove-fire, or in the oven, to continue gently braizing (not boiling), for about two hours and a half. It should then be removed from the fire, and the galantine taken carefully out of the napkin; the latter, after being washed in clean hot water, must be spread out upon the table, and the galantine, after being placed in it again, and bound up tightly as before, should be put back into its braize and left in to become partially cold: it must then be put in press between two dishes with a heavy weight upon it. Strain the stock, remove all the grease from the surface, and clarify it in the usual manner, then pass it through a napkin or a jelly-bag, and place it on some rough ice to become firmly set. When the galantine is quite cold, take 1t out of the napkin, and use a clean cloth to absorb any moisture or grease there may be on the surface; it must then be glazed, and placed upon its dish. Decorate it with aspic-jelly, as represented in the foregoing wood-cut, and‘serve. Note.—Galantines of turkeys, geese, capons, fowls, pheasants, par- tridges, &c., are made in the same way as the above. 1236. BOAR’S HEAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY. Procvgz the head of a bacon hog,* which must be cut off deep into the shoulders; bone it carefully, beginning under the throat, then * For this purpose, the head must be cut off before the pig is scalded, and the bristles . singed off with lighted straw; by this means, it will have all the appearance of a wild boar’s head. 378 COLD ENTREES. spread the head out upon a large earthenware dish, and rub it with the following ingredients :—Six pounds of salt, four ounces of saltpetre, six ounces of moist sugar, cloves, mace, half an ounce of juniper berries, four cloves of garlic, six bay-leaves, a handful of thyme, marjoram, and basil. When the head has been well rubbed with these, pour about a quart of port-wine lees over it, and keep in a cool place for a fort- night ; observing that it must be turned over m its brine every day, during that period. When about to dress the head, take it out of the brine, and wash it thoroughly in cold water; then absorb all the exterior moisture from it with a clean cloth, and spread it out upon the table. Next, pare off all the uneven pieces from the cheeks, &c., cut these into A narrow fillets, and put them with the tongue, fat bacon, and truffles, prepared as directed for the galantine ; then, line the inside of the ead with a layer of force-meat (the same kind as used for galantines), about an inch thick, and lay thereon the fillets of tongue, bacon, truffles, and here and there some pistachio kernels (the skin of which must be removed by scalding) ; cover these with a layer of force-meat, and then repeat the rows of tongue, &c., and when the head is suffi- ciently garnished to fill it out in its shape, it should be sewn up with a ~ small trussing-needle and twine, so as thoroughly to secure the stuff- ing. The head must then be wrapped up in a strong cloth, previously well spread with butter, and sewn up im this, so as to preserve its original form: it should next be put into a large oval braizing-pan, covered with any carcasses of game (especially of grouse, from its con- genial flavour) or any trimmings of meat there may be at hand, and also four cow-heels, or six calves’ feet ; then moisten with a copious wine mirepoix (No. 236), in sufficient quantity to cover the surface of the head. Set the braizier on the stove-fire ; as soon as it boils up, skim it thoroughly, then remove it to a slow fire (covered with the lid con- taining live embers), that the head may continue to simmer or boil very gently, for about five hours; as soon as it appears to be nearly done, remove the braizier from the fire, and when the heat of the broth has somewhat subsided, let the head be taken up on a large dish : if it appears to have shrunk considerably in the wrapper, this must be carefully tightened, so as to preserve its shape: it should then be put Sack into its braize, there to remain, until the whole has become set LAMB CUTLETS AND FILLETS OF FOWL. 379 firm by cooling. The head must next be taken out of the braize or stock, and put in the oven, upon a deep baking-dish, for a few minutes, just to melt the jelly which may adhere to the wrapper ; it must then e taken out quickly, and the wrapper carefully removed, after which, glaze the head with some dark-coloured glaze; place it on its dish, ornament it with aspic-jelly, and serve. | ? Note-—On the Continent it 1s usual to decorate boars’ heads with coloured gum-paste, and sometimes with natural flowers: the latter produce a very pretty effect, when arranged with taste; the former method is objectionable, from the lability of the gum-paste to give way, and run down the sides of the head: it has, moreover, a vulgar and gaudy look. 1237. CHICKENS, A LA BELLE VUE. Truss two chickens or fowls for boiling, and braize them in white broth in the usual manner; when done, set them to cool, and mask them completely with some reduced Béchamel sauce (No. 5), in which ~ should be mixed a fourth part of aspic-jelly. Previously to saucing the chickens, the Béchamel thus prepared must be stirred ina stewpan imbedded in rough ice, until it just begins to get firm ; it should then be immediately poured over the chickens; these should be decorated, upon the breasts, with black truffles or red tongue, and placed upon _ their dish with a trimmed and glazed tongue in the centre ; ornament - them, by placing a roll of chopped aspic-jelly round the base, then outside this some bold créutons of aspic-jelly, and serve. 1238. LAMB-CUTLETS, A LA PRINCESSE. THESE must be prepared, in the first instance, in the same way as cutlets of veal ad la Dreux (No. 890); then braized, pressed and trimmed. Next, cover the bottom of a sautapan with some bright aspic-jelly, not quite a quarter of an inch deep; when this has become set firm, by cooling, place the cutlets flat upon it, in circular order, then run a little aspic-jelly over them, just enough to cover them, and place the sautapan in ice, to set the jelly ; as soon as this has become quite firm, use a tin-cutter (in the form of a cutlet) dipped in hot water, to stamp the cutlets out; dish them up in close circular order upon a little aspic-jelly, placed on the bottom of the dish, to raise the cutlets, and garnish the centre with a well-prepared Macédoine of vegetables (No. 148), tossed in some bright aspic-jelly, instead of sauce; ornament the base with a border of bold créutons of jelly, and serve. 1239. FILLETS OF FOWL, A LA VICTORIA. Prepanrz the fillets of three young fowls as for a Supréme (No. 989) ; when they have been simmered, drain them upon a napkin, and put them in press between two dishes ; when cold, trim them neatly, dip each fillet either in some Supréme (No. 58) or Béchamel sauce (No. 5), mixed with one-fourth part of aspic-jelly, place them with the smoothest side uppermost in a dish or sautapan, and set them on some rough ice. Next, cover the bottom of a large sautapan with some bright aspic-jelly, to the depth of about the eighth of an inch: when this has become firm, by cooling on the ice, place the fillets upon 4 380 COLD ENTREES. it mm circular order, and decorate the upper part of each with black truffles ; the fillets must then be covered with a little bright aspic- jelly, to produce the same thickness upon the upper surface as the under. While this is going on, a border of vegetables should be prepared as follows: first, cut some carrots and turnips with vege- table cutters, as for a chartreuse, and boil them separately in broth ; prepare also some French-beans or asparagus-heads, and green-peas, which, when boiled, must be used to ornament a border-mould in exactly the same manner as a chartreuse: observing that each piece of vegetable must be first dipped in some aspic-jelly, previously to its being placed in the mould. When the mould islined, the void left must be filled up with some sort of vegetables cutsmaller, and tossed in aspic- jelly seasoned with a little mignionette-pepper and salt, a very little salad-oil and tarragon vinegar; it must then be imbedded in pounded rough ice, until set quite firm. The border should now be turned out upon its dish, and the fillets of fowls, previously stamped out with a tin-cutter dipped in hot water, must be placed on the top of the border, in close circular order, each one overlaying the other ; fill the centre of the entrée with a copious Macédoine of vegetables. (No. 143), tossed in a little glaze and aspic-jelly ; garnish the base of the entrée with bold créutons of jelly, and serve. Or, when the border is dished up, fill the centre with the Macé- doine, and place the fillets, with the broad ends resting full on the top of the border; thus causing the pointed ends to meet at the summit ; crown this with a bouquet of chopped jelly, insert a narrow slip of red tongue, cut in the form of a woblee cite between each fillet, and place an angular créuton of jelly so as apparently to support the tongue: garnish the base with créutons of jelly, and serve. 1240. SANDWICHES, A LA REGENCE. For this purpose, it is necessary to order one or more dozens ot very small round or oval rolls, about the size of an egg; cut a small piece off the top of each, about the circumference of half-a-crown piece, and remove all the crumb from the inside. These rolls must then be filled with the following preparation. First, shred the white meat from the breast of a roast fowl, and put this in a basin; then shred the fillets of six washed anchovies, and some red tongue or dressed ham in equal proportion to the fowl, and place these with the latter ; add about one-sisth part of the whole, of Indian gherkins or mangoes, also shred fine; season with a little chopped tarragon and chervil, add sufficient Rémoulade sauce (No. 95) to moisten the whole, and use the preparation as directed above. The rolls must then be covered with the circular pieces reserved for the purpose, and dished up on a napkin. Note.—These sandwiches may also be prepared with lobster; in which case, neither ham nor tongue should be used. 1241. SANDWICHES OF FILLETS OF SOLES. SIMMER the fillets of soles in a sautapan with a little clarified but- ter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; when done, put them in press be- tween two dishes, and afterwards divide each fillet into four scollops ; trim, and put them into a basin with a little mignionette-pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. Some small oval rolis must be ordered for this purpose; after the tops are cut off, and the crumb removed, first strew the bottom of each roll with small salad, then place a scollop of sole upon this, add a little Mayonaise sauce (No. 97), then strew some small salad on the surface, cover with the tops, and dish them up. | SANDWICHES. 381 Note.—Sandwiches of lobster or salmon are prepared in a similar manner. 1241a. BADMINTON SANDWICH. Cur some square pieces from a half-quartern loaf of stale bread, barely a quarter of an inch thick; toast these of a light colour, and immediately on their being taken from the fire, let them be split or divided with a sharp knife, the inner or untoasted sides must be spread with anchovy butter, and over this place closely some fillets of anchovies; cover the whole with the other piece of toast previously spread with anchovy butter, press down the sandwich with a knife, and after having cut the preparation into small oblong shapes, dish them up, and serve. | 12415. BRETBY SANDWICH. . Errst cut some thin slices of white bread and butter; then, cover half these, first, with finely-shred white-heart lettuce, then, with very _ thin slices of roast or boiled fowl; these to be placed alternately side by side with fillets of anchovies ; strew some shred lettuce over this, place a slice of bread and butter over the whole, and after slightly pressing the sandwich with the blade of a knife, proceed to cut the preparation into oblong shapes, about two and a-half inches long, by one inch in width. Dish up the sandwiches neatly, and serve. 1241c. SUMMER SANDWICH. Brtween thin slices of white or brown bread and butter, place some very thin slices of any of the following kind of meats: ham, tongue, boiled or roast beef, roast mutton, poultry or game, season with pepper and salt and a little mustard; strew some mustard and cress, small salad, or, if preferred, some finely-shred lettuce, over the meat ; press the sandwich together with the blade of a knife, cut it ea small oblong shapes, which. having dished up neatly, send to table. COLD RAISED PIES AND PRESERVED GAME, COMPRISING Veal and Ham Pie, or Timbale. Leicestershire Pork Pie. Capon Pie. Eel Pie, a ? Anglaise. Pheasant Pie. Salmon Pie, a la Russe. Yorkshire Pie. Préserved Hare, and other Game, Devonshire Squab Pie. Aromatic Spices, for Seasoning. 1242. VEAL AND HAM PIE, OR TIMBALE.* Frrst daube or interlard about three pounds of white veal (from the leg) with lardoons or square strips of fat bacon or ham; cut this in thick slices across the grain of the meat, and put them on a dish with an equal quantity of dressed ham, cut also in thick slices. Next, spread the inside of a plain mould with butter, and line it with short paste (No. 1253), about a quarter of an inch thick; line the inside of this with a rather thick layer of force-meat (No. 247), then place the veal and ham in alternate layers, season between each with aro- matic spices, pepper and salt, fill up the hollow places and cover in the surface with some of the force-meat: place some thin layers of fat bacon over the whole, and cover in the top with some of the paste, previously rolled out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch;. this must be applied after the edges of the pie have been wetted with. a paste-brush dipped in water, and made fast by pressing both pieces. of paste together with the fore-finger and thumb, so as to cause them to adhere closely together. The edges should then be neatly trimmed,. and pinched round with pastry-pincers; decorate the top of the tim- bale with thin strips of paste, cut out in the form of leaves, &e., arranged according to the upper part of the design represented in No. 1244. Ege the surface over with a paste-brush, make a small hole in the centre of the top of the pie, for the steam to escape, and bake it in the oven for about three hours; when it is done, withdraw it from the oven, and about twenty minutes afterwards, place the point of a funnel in the hole at the top of the témbale, and through this pour in about a pint of good well-seasoned strong consommé, reduced to the consistency of half-glaze: stop up the hole with a small piece of paste, and keep the timbale in a cool place until wanted for use. 1243. CAPON PIE, WITH TRUFFLES. Frrst, bone a capon, spread it out on the table, and season the taside with prepared spices and a little salt; then spread a layer of force-meat of fat livers (No. 247), and place upon this, in alternate rows, some square fillets or strips of fat bacon, tongue, and truffles ; cover these with a layer of the force-meat, repeat the strips of bacon, then fold both sides of the skin over each other, so as to give to the capon a plump appearance, and set it aside on a dish. * The difference between a raised pie and a timbale consists principally in the former being raised (by hand or otherwise) with a stiff paste, while the latter is prepared in a mould, lmed with a more delicate kind of short crust, which is made edible. y | YORKSHIRE, OR CHRISTMAS PIR, 383 Next, pare off the simewy skin frm the mouse-piece, or mner part of a leg of veal, daube it with seasoned lardoons of fat bacon, then place this, and an equal quantity of dressed ham, with the capon. Prepare four pounds of hot-water paste (No. 1251) ; take two-thirds of this, mould 1t into a round ball on the slab with the palm of the hand, and then roll it out in the form of a band, about two feet long and six inches wide; trim the edges, and pare the ends square, taking care to cut them in a slanting direction; wet them with a paste-brush dipped in water mixed with a little flour, and wrap them over one another neatly and firmly, so as to show the join as little as possible. Next, roll out half the remainder of the paste, either in a circular or oval form, about a quarter of an inch thick, to the size the pie is intended to be made; place this, with buttered paper, under it, on a baking-sheet, wet it round the edge with a paste-brush dipped in water, and stick a narrow band of the paste, about half an inch high, all round it, to within about an inch of the edge; the wall or crust of the pie is to be raised up round this, and by pressing on it with the tips of the fingers, it should be made to adhere effectually to the foundation. Then, by pressing the upper part of the pie with the fingers and thumbs of both hands, it will acquire a more elegant appearance, somewhat resembling the curved lip of a vase. The base must be spread out in proportion to the top, by pressing on it with the thumb. The bottom and sides of the pie should now be lined with a coating of force-meat of fat livers (No. 247), or, if preferred, with veal and fat bacon, in equal proportions, well-seasoned, chopped. fine and pounded; next, place in the veal and ham, previously cut up in thick slices and well-seasoned, and fill up the cavity with some of the force-meat; then add the capon and cover it over, and round, with the remainder of the force-meat, placing some truffles in with it, and cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon. oll out the remainder of the paste, and after wetting this, and the pie round the edges, use it to cover in the pie, pressing the edges of both tightly with the fingers and thumb, in order to make them adhere closely together ; trim the edge neatly and pinch it round with the pastry pincers. The pie should then be egged over, and decorated, for which latter purpose 2 similar kind of paste must be used, being first rolled out thin, then cut out in the form of leaves, half-moons, rings, &c., and arranged according to the designs contained in No. 249: or, if preferred, a moulding raised from decorating boards with some of the paste may be used instead. The pie must then be placed in the oven, and baked for about four hours, and when done, should be withdrawn, and about a pint of strongly-reduced consommé (made from the carcasses of the capons, two calves’ feet and the usual seasoning), should be introduced within it through a funnel: it must then be kept in a cold place until wanted for use ; when the cover should be carefully removed without breaking it, and after the top ofthe pie has been decorated with some bright aspic-jelly, it may be put on again and sent to table. Note-—For making pies of turkeys, fowls, pheasants, grouse, par- tridges, &c., follow the above directions. | 1244. YORKSHIRE, OR CHRISTMAS PIF. First, bone a turkey, a goose, a brace of young pheasants, four partridges, four woodcocks, a dozen snipes, four grouse, and four 384 COLD RAISED PIES, widgeons; then boil and trim a small York ham and two tongues. Season and garnish the imside of the fore-named game and poultry, as directed in the foregoing case, with long fillets of fat bacon and_ tongue, and French truffles; each must be carefully sewn up with a needle and small twine, so as to prevent the force-meat from escap- ing while they are being baked. When the whole of these are ready, line two round or oval braiz- ing-pans with thin layers of fat bacon, and after the birds have been ar- ranged therein in neat order, and covered in with layers of bacon and buttered paper, put the lids on, and set them in the oven to bake rather slowly, for about four hours: then withdraw them, and allow them to cool. While the foregoing is in progress, prepare some highly-seasoned aspic-jelly with the carcasses of the game and poultry, to which add six calves’-feet, and the usual complement of vegetables, &c., and when done, let it be clarified: one-half should be reduced previously to its being poured into the pie when it is baked. Make about sixteen pounds of hot-water-paste (No. 1251), and use it to raise a pie of sufficient dimensions to admit of its holding the game and poultry prepared for the purpose, for making which follow the directions contained in the foregomg article. The inside of the pie must first be lined with thin layers of fat bacon, over which spread a coating of well-seasoned force-meat of fat livers (No. 247) ; the birds ~ should then be placed in the following order :—First, put the goose at the bottom with some of the small birds round it, filling up the cayi- ties with some of the force-meat; then, put the turkey and the - pheasants with thick slices of the boiled ham between them, reserving the woodcocks and widgeons, that these may be placed on the top: fill the cavities with force-meat and truffles, and cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, run a little plain melted butter over the sur- face, cover the pie in the usual manner, and ornament it with a bold design. The pie must now be baked, for about six hours, in an oven moderately heated, and when taken out, and after the reduced aspic above alluded to has been poured into it, stop the hole up with a small piece of paste, and set it aside in the larder to become cold. Note.—The quantity of game, &c., recommended to be used in the preparation of the foregoing pie may appear extravagant enough, but it is to be remembered that these very large pies are mostly in request : o _ LEICESTERSHIRE PORK PIE. 8385 at Christmas time. Their substantial aspect renders them worthy of appearing on the side-table of those wealthy epicures who are wont to keep up the good old English style, at this season of hospitality and. good cheer. 1245. DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE. First, make two pounds of short paste (No. 1253), roll it up in a clean cloth, and set it aside till wanted. Then, cut about two pounds of griskin of pork in slices, season these with a little chopped onion, sage and thyme, pepper and salt, and place them on a dish; cut one pound of streaky bacon (previously parboiled for a quarter of an hour) also in slices, and put them with the pork ; to these add about a dozen good apples, which, when peeled, and the cores taken out, must be cut . in thick slices and put on a plate. Next, take rather more than half the paste, roll it out, and line an oblong tin mould, about two inches deep, with it; then, arrange the pork, bacon, and apples in this, in alternate layers, commencing with the bacon, over this put slices of apples, and then the pork, and so on until the whole is used up. The remainder of the paste must now be rolled out, and used to cover the pie with; fasten it securely round the edges, trim it, and pinch it round boldly with the pincers; ornament the top with leaves, &c., egg it over and bake it in an oven of moderate heat, for about two hours, and serve it hot. 1246. LEICESTERSHIRE PORK PIE. Cut the pork up in square pieces, fat and lean, about the size of a cob-nut, season with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of sage and thyme chopped fine, and set it aside on a dish in a cool place. Next, make some hot-water-paste, using for this purpose (if desired) fresh-made hog’s-lard instead of butter, in the proportion of eight ounces to the pound of flour. These pies must be raised by hand, in the following manner :—First, mould the paste into a round ball upon the slab, then roll it out to the thickness of half an inch, and with the back of the right hand indent the centre in a circle reaching to within three inches of the edge of the paste; next, gather up the edges all round, pressing it closely with the fingers and thumbs, so as to give to it the form of a purse; then continue to work it upwards, until the sides are raised sufficiently high; the pie should now be placed on a baking-sheet, with a round of buttered paper under it, and. after it has been filled with the pork—previously prepared for the purpose, covered in with some of the paste in the usual manner. Trim the edges, and pinch it round with the pincers, decorate it, egg it over and bake it until done: calculating the time it should remain in the oven, according to the quantity of meat it contains. 1247. EEL-PIE, A L’ ANGLAISE. Bons two good-sized Thames eels, spread them out on a dish, and sprinkle them over with a little pepper and salt. Make some quenelle force-meat with either perch, tench, or carp: and after having mixed some chopped mushrooms, parsley, one shalot, spread a thick layer of it mside each eel, roll them up, cut the eel into four-inch lengths, and place them on a dish until wanted. Next, line a plain mould with 2C 386 COLD RAISED PIES. short paste (No. 1253), arrange the pieces of eels in it, in neat order, season between each layer with chopped parsley and mushrooms, pep- er and salt, and a spoonful of good Béchamel sauce; cover in the pie, m the usual manner, with some of the paste, pinch the edge round, ornament the top, egg it over, and bake it in the oven for about au hour and a half: when done, dish it up ona napkin, and send to table. Note —When eel-pies are intended to be eaten cold, the top should be carefully removed, and the pie ornamented with aspic-jelly. | 1248. SALMON-PIE, A LA RUSSE. _Maxez two pounds of short paste (No. 1253), roll it up in a cloth, and keep it in a cool place till wanted. Cut two pounds of fresh salmon in slices about half an inch thick, and set them aside on a plate; fillet six anchovies, turn two dozen olives (removing the stone, by paring off the outer part without altering the shape), boil six eggs hard, and place the whole of these on a dish. Chop a pottle of mush- rooms, two shalots, a handful of parsley, a little green-thyme, sweet basil, and tarragon: put these ingredients into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and simmer them over the stove-fire for about five minutes; then add about half a pint of good brown sauce, and the juice of a lemon, stir the whole together over the stove-fire for five minutes longer, and then take it off. Next, roll out two-thirds of the paste to the thickness of the sixth of an inch, and after having thinly spread the inside of an oblong mould with butter, line it with this, and fill it with alternate layers of the slices of salmon, hard eggs, olives, and fillets of anchovies, at the same time spreading some of the fine-herbs sauce in between each layer; the pie must be covered in with the remainder of the paste in the usual man- ner; bake it in a moderately-heated oven for about one hour and a half, and when done, dish it up on a napkin, and send to table. Note.—These pies may also be made with sturgeon, trout, mackerel, char, gurnets, eels, soles, &c.: the addition of some sliced thunny* tends considerably to improve the flavour. 1249. PRESERVED HARE; AND OTHER GAME, Bone a hare, lard it with narrow square strips of fat bacon, well seasoned with aromatic spices (No. 1250), and salt: then garnish the inside with some force-meat of fat livers (No. 247), and fold the hare so as to give to it aplump oval form ; then place it in an oval stewpan with a small glass of brandy; cover it with thin layers of fat bacon, ee the lid on the stewpan, and set it in the oven, in order that the are may be sufficiently baked to set the meat: it should be then withdrawn. | Meanwhile, line the bottom and sides of an oval white earthen pau (sufficiently large to contain the hare) with thin layers of fat bacon, over these spread a coating of the force-meat about an inch thick, and place the hare in it, press it down tight, spread a thick layer of the force-meat on the top, cover this with layers of fat bacon, and place a covering of common paste over the whole; then, set the pan on a ped Thunny 1s a fish abounding m the Mediterranean, and which 1S procurable, preserved in oi] at CROSsE and BLACKWELL’s, Soho Square. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. 387 baking sheet, and put it in the oven to bake slowly for about two hours: it should then be withdrawn and allowed to cool. Let the paste be removed, the edges and sides of the pan washed, and the contents of the pan pressed down tight, so as to exclude any confined air, and after pouring over the surface some well-reduced glaze (made from the carcass), to the depth of about a quarter of an inch, keep the pie in a cool place until wanted for use. When this kind of pie is intended to be kept for any length of time, some clean hog’s-lard should be run over the surface to the depth of about an inch; when this has become set firm by cooling, the pan should be covered in with strong white paper pasted over it, or in heu of this, a bladder (soaked in water, and well washed) may be tied over it. Note.—All kinds of game should be preserved in the above method ; but, if preferred, game may be used instead of livers for making the force-meat. Indeed, this is by far the best plan when the preserved game is intended for keeping, as force-meat, when made with livers of any land, is more liable to fermentation than when made with fresh- killed game. | 1250. AROMATIC-SPICES, FOR SEASONING. Taku of nutmegs and mace, one ounce each; of cloves and white pepper-corns, two ounces each; of sweet-basil, marjoram, and thyme, one ounce each, and half an ounce of bay-leaves: these herbs should be previously dried for the purpose: roughly pound the spices, then place the whole of the above ingredients between two sheets of strong white paper, and after the sides have been twisted or folded over tightly, so as to prevent as much as possible the evaporation of the volatile properties of the herbs and spices, place them on a baking- sheet in the skreen to become perfectly dry; they must then be pounded quickly, sifted through a fine hair-sieve, corked up tightly in a dry bottle, and kept for use. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE, ViZe? Hot-water-Paste, for Raised Pie. Noutlles-Paste. French Paste, for do, Office do. Short Paste, for Timbales, &c. Almond do, Short Puff-Paste. Gum do. Tart-Paste. Puff do. 1251. HOT-WATER PASTE, FOR RAISED PIES. InGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, four ounces of butter, a tea- ‘spoonful of salt, about a gill and a half of hot water. Place the flour on the pastry-table, spread it out with the back of the hand, so as to form # well or hollow in the centre, into this put the salt. Next, put the butter and water into a stewpan over the fire, and when they are sufficiently heated, so that one can just bear the 2c2 388 DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. finger in, pour them both gradually in upon the flour, and mix them quickly together with the hand, taking particular care to knead the whole’ firmly, and at once, into a compact paste: then press this smoothly together in a napkin, and afterwards keep it covered up ina stewpan in a warm place till used. 1252. FRENCH-PASTE, FOR RAISED PIES. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, four ounces of butter, a tea- spoonful of salt, a gill and a half of cold water. Place the flour on the slab, spread it out in the centre, then add the salt, water, and butter, and proceed to work the whole together with the hands into a very firm paste in the following manner :— When the ingredients have been worked into a paste, this must be brought to the edge of the slab; then use the palms of both hands, applying them alternately, with great force, to spread and divide the paste into small parts; sprinkle a few drops of water over the paste, and kneaa it together: this is called breaking and kneading, and must be repeated three or four times. The paste must then be gathered up, ‘placed in a clean rubber, and finally kneaded together by pressing upon it with the elbow. It will then be ready for use. 1253. SHORT-PASTE FOR TIMBALES, ETC. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, a tea- spoonful of salt, the yolks of two eggs, and nearly half a pint of water. Make a well in the centre of the flour, place in this the yolks of eggs, salt, butter, and two-thirds of the water, then work the whole together with the hands into a somewhat firm paste; dip the fingers into the flour, to separate and of the paste that may adhere to them, sprinkle a little water over it, and then work the whole together into a ball, and keep it in a cloth till wanted for use. 1254. SHORT PUFF-PASTE. Inerrepients :—One pound of flour, twelve ounces of butter, a little salt, one egg, and about half a pint of water. Spread the flour out in the usual manner, place the egg, salt, half the butter, and two-thirds of the water at first, adding as much of the remainder as may be necessary afterwards; work these together intc a smooth and somewhat firm paste, then spread this out with the hand, and after the remaining half of the butter has been placed in the centre, the sides should be folded over so as to entirely enclose the butter. When the paste has stood five minutes, shake some flour with the hand over the slab and on the paste, then roll it out to the length of about two feet and a half, and about a foot wide; this must be then folded into three, and after turning the paste round so as to bring the sides to face you, roll it out again in a similar manner; after an interval of about ten minutes, repeat the rolling* twice more: the _ paste will then be fit for use. ‘ * Each time that the paste undergoes the process of rolling, as here described, it is termed by cooks, “ giving ita turn.” This kind of paste requires only four turns. » > ra SHORT-PASTE, ETC. . 3889 1255. SHORT-PASTE FOR TARTS. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, halfa pound of butter, two ounces of pounded sugar, a very little salt, two whole eggs, and about a gill of water. . Spread the flour out on the slab with a hollow in the centre, then add the butter, sugar, salt, and the water, and break in the two eggs; work the whole together with the hands into a firm paste, and use it for covering fruit tarts, and lining tartlets, Kc. 1256. NOUILLES-PASTE. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, about ten yolks of eggs, a tea- spoonful of salt, and merely sufficient water to melt the salt. Place the flour on the slab, form a hollow in the centre, then put the salt in, with a little water to melt it, and add the yolks of eight eges; work the whole well together, at first rubbing the ingredients between the hands, and then, if necessary, add two more yolks of eggs, and finish working the paste by pushing it from you with the palms of the hands, using considerable pressure; sprinkle a few drops. of water over it, then knead the paste into a ball, and keep it wrapped up in a cloth until wanted for use. This paste must be kept very stiff. 1257. OFFICE-PASTE. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, eight ounces of pounded sugar, two whole eggs, and two yolks. Place the flour on the slab, forming a hollow in the centre, then add the sugar and the eggs, and proceed to work the whole up into a stiff compact body. If, however, the paste should appear dry, and present any difficulty in kneading, another yolk or two may be added. This paste is mostly used for making ornaments for the second course. 1258. ALMOND-PASTE. INGREDIENTS :—LFight ounces of Jordan almonds, a pound and a half of sugar, with half an ounce of gum-dragon. First, scald the almonds, remove the skin, wash them, and allow them to steep in cold water for about twelve hours. Next, put the gum into a galley-pot, adding to it rather more than a gill of water, cover this over with paper twisted round the edge of the galley-pot and allow the gum to steep until it has absorbed all the water; it must then be placed in the centre of a strong cloth, which should be twisted round at each end by two persons (in the manner practised in wringing wet cloths) with considerable pressure, so as to squeeze the gum through the cloth, which must then be gathered up into a small basin. Pound the sugar, and sift it through a very fine lawn- gleve. | The almonds must now be drained on a napkin, afterwards placed in a mortar, and pounded into a very smooth paste; in order to pre- vent them from turning oily, while they are being pounded, it will be necessary to add a few drops of water or lemon-juice occasionally» As soon as the almonds present the appearance of a smooth paste, rub this through a very close hair-sieve on to a plate. Next, place the 4 390 DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. pounded almonds in a convenient-sized sugar boiler, with about one= third part of the sugar, and stir these together over a stove-fire with a new wooden spoon, working the paste. briskly and carefully the whole time, in order to prevent it from burning or acquiring the least colour. As soon as the paste ceases to adhere to the sides of the pan, turn it out on to the slab, and begin to work in the remainder of the sugar and the gum: the latter must be previously worked on the marble slab with the hand, and some of the sugar should be added at intervals. "When the whole of the ingredients have been worked together, the paste should form a white, stiff, and smooth compact body. Note.—Almond paste, prepared as the above, is mostly used for making croguantes, small baskets filled with whipped cream and straw- berries, &c.: it may also be used for making second-course ornaments ; being preferred by many for that purpose on account of its trans- parency. 1259. ALMOND-PASTE, ANOTHER METHOD. ~ InaRrEpients :—Two pounds of fine-sifted sugar, eight ounces of pounded almonds, and one ounce of steeped gum-dragon. When the ingredients have been prepared as directed in the fore- going case, work about half the sugar in with the gum; then work the almonds with part of the remainder, add both together, and manipu- late them with the remaining portion of the sugar, until the whole is thoroughly incorporated. If the paste is not stiff enough, a little more fine-sifted sugar should be filled in. In order to obtain this paste of a pure and dazzling whiteness, a very small quantity of cobalt blue, in powder, may be worked in with it: the colour must be first mixed on a plate with a drop of water, preparatory to its being used. _. Note——About one-third part of starch, or*hair powder, may be used to work in with this kind of almond paste; this addition makes it less brittle, and consequently increases the facility of using it to cast mouldings, cutting out borders, &c. When, however, starch powder is introduced, double the usual quantity of gum-dragon is required. 1260. GUM-PASTE. INGREDIENTS :—T'wo ounces of gum-dragon, one pound of fine- sifted sugar, and one pound of starch powder. First, steep the gum-dragon in a small basin with nearly half a pint of water, cover it over with paper, and put the basin in a warm place: when the gum has absorbed all the water, press it through a cloth as directed for the almond paste, then work it on the marble slab with the palm of the hand, mixing in the sugar at intervals ; when the gum has absorbed all the sugar, the powder must be gra- dually worked in with it. The whole, when finished, should have the appearance of a very stiff compact smooth paste. Then gather it up into a round ball, put it on a plate covered with a basin, and keep it im a damp place, to prevent its becoming dry and hard. 1261. PUFF-PASTE. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, the yolk of an egg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and about half a pint of water. A PUFF-PASTE. 39] Place the flour on the pastry-slab, spread it out in the centre so as to form a well, in which place the salt, a small piece of butter, the yolk of an egg, and about two-thirds of the quantity of water required to mix the paste; spread out the fingers of the right hand, and mix the ingredients together gradually with the tips of the fingers, adding a little more water, if necessary ; when the whole is thoroughly incor- porated together, sprinkle a few drops of water over it, and work the paste to and fro on the slab for two minutes, after which it should be rather soft to the touch, and present a perfectly smooth appearance. The paste, tuus far prepared, must now be spread out on the slab with the hands, and after the butter has been pressed in a cloth, to extract any milk it may contain, it should be placed in the centre of the paste, and partially spread, by pressing on it with the cloth; the four sides should then be folded over so as entirely to cover the butter ; a little flour must next be shaken under and over it, and the paste should be shaped in a square form, measuring about ten inches each way, by pressing it out with the hand; it should then be placed on a clean baking-sheet, laid on some pounded rough ice,* and a deep sautapan also filled with ice should be plated upon it: by these means the paste will be kept cool and firm. About ten minutes after the aste has been made, take it from the ice and place it on a marble slab, shake a little flour over and under it, and then roll it out about two feet long, and ten inches wide; observing that the paste must be kept square at both ends, as much of the success depends on due attention being paid to the turning and folding. The paste should then be laid in three equal folds, and after these have been rolled over to cause them to adhere together, the paste must next be turned round in the opposite direction and rolled out again in the same man- ner as before ; it should then be put back on the ice, and after allow- ing it to rest for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, roll it out again, or, as it is technically termed, give it two more turns ; the paste must now be put back on the ice, and again rolled twice or three. times, as the case may require, preparatory to its being cut out for whatever purpose it may be intended. * In the summer season it is impossible to insure success in making puff-paste, unless rough ice be used to further that end, it being a matter of the first necessity that it should be kept cool and firm: two requisites that tend materially to facilitate the working of the paste, and also contribute very considerably to give to it that extraordinary degree of elas- ticity, when exposed to the heat of an oven, so well known to experienced pastrycooks. A piece of puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick, when baked, will rise to the height of two inches—thus increasing in volume eight times. To effect this properly, it 1s neces- sary to procure three oblong tin pans, of the following dimensions: the first should measure 20 inches by 16, depth 3 inches; the second, 18 inches by 14, depth 2 inches; and the third, 16 inches by 12, depth 3 inches. Place some pounded rough ice in the largest, then set the second-sized tin on this, with the puff-paste in it; lastly, put the smallest pan, also filled with 1ce, on the top of the paste: by this method puff-paste may be easily made to perfection during the hottest days of summer, In winter, the use of ice may, of course, be dispensed with. In extreme cold weather, when the butter is very hard, it will be necessary to press it in a cloth or on the slab, to give it more expansion, and thus facilitate its incorporation with the paste. Care must be taken, in mixing the paste, not to make it too stiff, especially in summer, as, in that case, t becomes not only troublesome to work but it also affects its elast city in baking, 392 VOL-AU-VENT, TOURTE, AND PATTY CASES, COMPRISING Voi-au-vent Cases, for an Entrée. Timbale of Noutlles Cases. . Tourte ditto ditto. Patties, a la Mazarine. Puff-paste Patty Cases. Mutton Patties, @ Ja Windsor. Créustade ditto. 1262. VOL-AU-VENT CASES, FOR AN ENTREE. For this purpose, one pound of puff-paste will be required, and when mixing it, the juice of one lemon must be added. The paste must be rolled perfectly square at the ends, and folded likewise with the greatest correctness, in order to ensure the vol-au-vent’s rising per- fectly straight all round, which cannot be the case if it 1s rolled un- evenly. Five turns and a half must be given to the paste, allowing about seven minutes to elapse between each turn: observing that previously to folding up’ the last turn and a half, the paste must be pased over with a paste-brush dipped in water, or a little lemon-juice ; attention must be paid, in giving the last two turns, to roll the paste out, and also to fold it, especially when giving the last turn on spread- ing it to the size the vol-au-vent is intended to be made so |, to be able to cut it as thick as the quantity of paste will admit of; just be- fore cutting out the vol-au-vent, the piece of paste must be wetted on one side with the brush dipped in water. Next, roll out about four ounces of common paste to the diameter ofa dinner-plate, lay this on the puff-paste, just passing the rolling-pin over to cause it to adhere, and then place it on the baking-sheet, previously wetted in the centre to receive it. For the purpose of guiding the hand when cutting it out, the cover of a stewpan or bain-marie should be placed on it; then with a small sharp-pointed knife proceed to cut round the edge of the cover, forming perpendicular flutes or scollops; the knife must be held comparatively loose, yet securely, with the tips of the fingers only. Remove the trimmings and the cover, egg over the surface, and be tareful not to smear the edges of the paste, as that would prevent it from rising evenly ; then with the point of the small knife, held slant- ing, make a slight incision all round the surface, within about three- quarters of an inch of the edge, and with the point notch round the extreme edge of the inner circle, so as to separate it entirely from the inner edge. of the outer circle. The vol-au-vent should now be put into the oven (not too hot, as excess of heat prevents the paste from rising) ; a8 soon as it begins to rise, let a trivet be quickly slipped under it, and the oven immediately closed. "When it has risen about two inches, and before it has acquired any colour, a broad band of double paper (or a wooden hoop from an old sieve), measuring two inches more in circumference than the vol-au-vent, about eight inches high, and fastened in the form of a hoop, must be placed round it to _ protect the sides from being suddenly caught by the heat, which otherwise would not only scorch it, but also check its full develop- ment: it should remain in the oven quite an hour to be thoroughly ; TOURTE CASES, FOR AN ENTREE. 393 * baked. When the vol-au-vent is done, withdraw it from tke oven; mstantly remove the cover, and after carefully detaching all the greasy crumb from the centre, without in any way injuring the sides of the case, lift it out, taking particular care to stop up any thinly- covered places in the inside of the case with small flakes of the crumb which has been removed : this precaution is necessary in order to pre- vent the sauce from escaping through any fissures that may exist. 1263. TOURTE CASES, FOR AN ENTREE. First, prepare half a pound of puff-paste, and give it four turns, in the usual manner; make also half a pound of common short paste, take half of this, knead it into a round ball, roll it out to the size of a dinner-plate, put it on a round baking-sheet, and place a tampoon* of paper in the centre. The pufi-paste must then be rolled out about . twenty inches long, wetted over with the brush dipped in water, and folded lengthwise in three; this must be rolled again in its width, just sufficient to make it about four inches wide: the paste should then be slightly wetted over, and then folded as before: by this time, it should form a band, measuring about twenty inches long by nearly two inches wide, and about half an inch thick. The edges of the paste must now be pared away, with a small sharp knife, held perpendicu- larly in the right hand, whilst the paste must be slightly pressed on the slab with the fore-part of the fingers. Next, add the trimmings of the puff-paste to the remaining half of the common paste, knead both together, roll this out to the size of a plate, and after having first wetted the foundation round the edge, place it over the tampoon, and press it down all round with the thumb; then wet the edge of the tourte round again, and apply the band in the following manner. Take hold of the band at both ends, and begin by fastening that held in the right hand round the edge of the tourte, and continue fixing the band all round as fast as it is dropped in its place with the left hand; press the first end down so as to thin it, wet this part with the brush, and after paring away a little of the other end, so as to thin that also, fasten both together by effectually jomimg them. Press the band down all round with the thumb, and flute it round the edge by jagging it slightly with the back of a knife. The tourte must then be edged over with a paste-brush, so as to carefully avoid smearing the edges of the band. Place it in a mode rately-heated oven, and let it be baked of a light colour; when done, * From the French word tampon, a kind of small, hard cushion: in the rresent case, rt should consist of a large sheet of rather sott paper, twisted into the form of a circular cushion, about four inches in diameter. 394 | PUFF-PASTE, PATTY CASES, ETC. withdraw it, make an incision with a small knife all round the bottom of the crown, inside the band, remove the crown or top, take out the tampoon, and the case will then be ready for garnishing. 1264. PUFF-PASTE PATTY-CASES, Maxs one pound of puff-paste in the manner described in No. 1261, and give it seven turns, wetting the last turn before folding it; then roll the paste out so as to leave it scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, and about three minutes afterwards, take a fluted circular tin-cutter about two mmches in diameter, and use this to stamp out as many patties as may be required; previously to stamping out each patty, the cutter should be first dipped in very hot water, as the heat thus imparted to the cutter causes it to slip easily through the paste, and produces the same effect as if it were cut with a sharp knife; in con- sequence of there being little or no pressure on the edges, the paste has thus a much better chance of rising while baking, especially in the summer season. As soon as the patties are cut out, they should be mediately placed in rows, on a baking-sheet previously wetted over, about two inches apart from each other; then egg them over with a soft brush dipped in beaten egg, being careful not to smear the edges, and stamp them in the centre, making a slight incision through their surface, with a plain circular tin-cutter about one inch and a half in diameter (this cutter must also be dipped in hot water each time it is used). The patties should then be quickly put in the oven and baked » of a light colour; when done, let the covers or tops be removed, pick out the inner crumb carefully with the point of a small knife, and then place the patties with their tops on a baking-sheet lined with clean paper. 1265. CROUSTADE. CASES. Roz out half a pound of timbale paste (No. 1253) to the thickness of a penny-piece, then take a circular tin-cutter, about four inches in diameter, and stamp out a dozen flats; next, press one of these on the end of a circular piece of wood, about six inches long by about one and a quarter in diameter (or failing this, cut a carrot to that shape). Line a dariole-mould, previously slightly spread with butter, with the paste so prepared: use the thumb to make the paste le evenly in the mould, trim away the edges, raise the sides a little, then fill each créustade so finished with flour, mixed with a fourth part of chopped suet, and bake them of a light colour; when done, empty them, brush them out, and place them on a dish. The tops must be stamped out with a small circular fluted cutter, from some puff-paste, rolled seven turns; put these on a baking-sheet previously wetted to receive them, egg them over with a soft brush, place a much smaller circular piece of paste on the top of each, ege these over, and ther bake them of a bright light colour ; when done, trim them, and place each on the top of one of the créustades after they are garnished. 1266. TIMBALE OF NOUILLES CASES. PREPARE the nouilles as directed in No. 774, and parboil them in water for ten minutes, then drain them thoroughly on a sieve ; after- wards toss them with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of good Bé- chemal sauce (No. 5), and little erated nutmeg, in a stewpan over the MUTTON PATTIES, A LA WINDSOR. 395 stove-fire for five minutes; then, throw them into a sautapan, full two mches deep, previously slightly spread with butter ; cover them down evenly with a circular piece of buttered paper, and allow them to become perfectly cold. ‘The preparations must then be turned out of the sautapan on the table, upon a sheet of paper; and the créustades or timbales should be stamped out of this with a plain circular tin- cutter about an inch and a half in diameter, and placed on a dish ; they must next be rolled in very fine fresh-made bread-crumbs, after- wards dipped in beaten egg, and then bread-crumbed over again ; smooth the bread-crumbs on the timbales by rolling and patting them, place them in neat order on a dish, and with a plain circular cutter, an inch in diameter, stamp out the surface of each, exactly in the centre, making only a slight incision. When about to send the tim- bales to table, place them carefully in neat order on the wire lining ot a deep frying-pan (half filled with clean hog’s-lard made quite hot), immerse them in the fat, and fry them of a bright yellow colour; when done, drain them on a cloth, and empty them carefully with a fork. Note.—Créustades or small timbales may also be made of vermicelli, prepared in the same way as nowilles. Rice may also be used for the same purpose. ; 1267. PATTIES, A LA MAZARIN. Grvz seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and stamp out two dozen tops with a plain circular tin-cutter, about one inch and a half in diameter; then, gather up the trimmings, knead them together, roll them out, and stamp two dozen more ; place these on a baking-sheet, about an inch and a-half apart from each other, and wet them over with a soft brush ; garnish the centre of each with alittle force-meat of any kind, place the tops on them, and use the upper part of a smaller cutter to press them down, so as to fasten the two parts together; they must then be egged over, and baked in a rather brisk oven; when done, dish them up on a napkin, and serve. 1268. MUTTON PATTIES, A LA WINDSOR. Trim the lean parts of a loin of mutton, free from fat and sinew; cut this up into small scollops, mix these with some fine-herbs, con- sisting of chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot; season with pepper and salt, and add a ragout-spoonful of reduced Espagnole sauce: use this preparation to fill some créustades lined with short paste, cover them with some of the same kind of paste, and bake them of a light colour. When done, remove the tops from the pat- ties, pour a little thin Lspagnole, or Italian sauce in each, cover them with puff-paste tops (made similar to créustade tops), and serve. Note.— C7 éustades and patties are garnished with scollops or ragouts of chicken, game, all kinds of fillets of fish, the tails of craytish, prawrs, and shrimps; with oysters in scollops, small dice, and also with lob- ster cut up in small dice. They may be sauced either with Supréme, Beéchamel, or Allemande, Lobster, Oveiite or Crayfish sauces. 396 CAKES IN GENERAL. Brioche Paste, Baba, or Polish Cake. Compiégne Cake. German Kouglatff Parisian Cake. Victoria Cake. Savarin. Savoy Cake. Finger, or Naples Biscuits. Plum Cake. Scotch Bread. Plain Seed Cake. Brussels Biscuits, or Rusks. Pound Cake. Flemish Gauffres. French Gauffres, Almond Gauffres. Nougats. Parisian Nougats. Small Wougats, dla Chantilly. Genoese Cakes. Genoese Cakes, with Almonds. Madeleines. COMPRISING Duchess Loaves. Petits-chouc, with Carmnel. Profitroliles. Mecca Loaves. Queen’s Cakes. Almond Cakes. Meringues. — Italian Biscuits. Venetian do. Swedish Macaroons. Brown-bread Biscuits, Ginger Cakes. Champagne Biscuits. Orange do. Peach do. Apricot do. Chocolate Glacés. Varieties of other Giacés. Sutsse Lecrelets. Sicilian Biscuits. Russian do. Albert do. Victoria do. Spanish Cakes (Petits-chous). 1269. BRIOCHE PASTE. INGREDIENTS: one pound of flower, ten ounces of butter, nals an ounce of German yeast, a tea-spoonful each of salt, and sugar, ana about seven eggs. Put one-fourth part of the flower on the slab, spread it out to form a well, then place the yeast in the centre, and proceed to dissolve it with a little tepid water; when this is effected add sufficient water to mix the whole into a rather soft paste; knead this into the form of a round ball, put it into a stewpan capable of containing three times its quantity, score it round the sides with a knife, put the lid on and set it to rise in a rather warm place: in winter it may be put in the skreen, but in hot weather, the fermentation will proceed more satisfactorily if it is merely placed on the kitchen table, or in some such place of moderate warmth. This part of the ope- ration is termed setting the sponge. Next, put the remainder of the flour on the slab and spread it out in the centre to form the well; then place the salt and sugar, and a tea-spoonful of water to dissolve these, after which the butter must be added; break in six eggs, and work the whole together with the hands until well mixed, first working it between the hands, and then rubbing it with both fists held flat on the slab, and moving them to and fro, so as to thoroughly reduce any remaining lumps in the paste. By the time the paste is mixed, the sponge will probably have risen sufficiently : to be per- fect, it must rise to three times its original size: when spread out on { : - BRIOCHE PASTE. Oe the paste prepared to receive it, it should present the appearance of a sponge, from which it takes its name. Both the above should be then immediately, gently, but thoroughly mixed. A napkin must be spread in a wooden bowl, or a basin, some flower shaken over it, and the brioche-paste lifted into it; then shake a little flour over the paste, and after throwing the ends of the napkin over all, set the bow! containing the paste in a cool place, free from any current of air. : It is usual to make this kind of paste late in the evening previously to the day on which it is required for use. The first thing on the following morning, the brioche-paste must be turned off the napkin on to the slab; then shake some flour under and over it, and fold the paste over half a dozen times, pressing it down with the knuckles each time; put the paste back again into the bowl in the same way as before; and about three hours afterwards, knead it again in a similar manner, previously to its being baked. If the paste, when finished, appears to be full of small globules of air, and is perfectly elastic to the touch, it is certain to be well made, and, when baked, will be both light and of a bright clear colour. If the paste is intended to be made into one brioche only, take five- sixths of it, mould this into the form of a round ball or cushion, and lace it in a plain mould or paper-case* (previously spread with fasten) with the smooth surface uppermost; press it down in the case with the knuckles, and, after moulding the remaining piece of aste in a similar manner, first, wet the surface of the other part over with the paste-brush dipped in water, and then, after inserting the pointed end of this into the centre of that portion of the brioche which has been already placed in the case, press the head down upon it with the back of the hand; egg the brioche over with a paste-brush, score the sides slightly, in a slanting direction, place it on a baking- sheet and put it in the oven (at moderate heat). As soon as the brioche begins to rise, and has acquired a slight degree of colour, let it be covered over with a sheet of paper: about two hours will suffice to bake a large brioche of double the quantity of paste described in this article. Note-—Brioches may be varied in their form, when intended to be served as fancy bread, for breakfast, &c.; im which case they should be moulded in the shape of twists, fingers, rmgs, &c. When served on the refreshment table, at routs, public breakfasts, balls, &c., dried cherries, citron, candid orange or lemon-peel, pine-apple or angelica, steeped in some kind of liqueur, may be introduced; in either of these cases, previously to mixing in the fruit, part of the paste must * The case is thus made. For a large brioche, intended to be served as a second-course remove, take a large sheet of Bristol-board, and cut a band from this, measuring about two feet long by eight inches broad; the two ends should be sewed together with strong thread, and some small bands of paper, smeared over with flour-and-water paste,, should be stuck over the sewing to make it more secure. This hoop should then be placed upon a circular piece of the pastebcard, cut to fit its circumference, and both these must be securely fastened together by placing small strips of paper (pasted over) all round the angle of the bottom part of the case; these must be placed close together and crosswise, with one end ” fastened under the case, while the other is lapped round the angle and fastened at the side, These strips of paper, after becoming very dry, should receive another row over them, te make the case stronger, . - 398 GAKER,) © } | be reserved, which, after bemg rolled out, must be used to enclose the other part of the brioche. This precaution is necessary to prevent tho fruit from protruding through the paste, as it becomes calcined by the heat of the oven, and gives an unsightly appearance to the sponge. When fruit has been mixed in a brioche, it should be (when baked) glazed with fine sugar by the salamander. Gruyere or Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions, are sometimes introduced in a brioche for a second-course remove; the first should be cut up in dice, the latter grated. As in the above cases, this kind of brioche must be enclosed in a portion of the paste reserved for that purpose. 1270. BABA, OR POLISH CAKE. Inerepiznts :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, six ounces of muscatel raisins, four ounces of currants, two ounces of candied citron, a good pinch of saffron, two wine-glasses of brandy, and the same quantity of rum, half an ounce of salt, about fifteen eggs, and one ounce of German yeast. First, set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the veast, in the same way as directed for preparing brioche. ‘Then, © spread out the remainder of the flour so as to form a hollow in the centre: place in this the butter, and salt, previously dissolved with a drop or two of water, four ounces of pounded sugar, and break in fifteen eggs: mix the whole thoroughly, working the paste with the hands on the slab. When this is effected, gather the paste up closely, and take up portions of it with the hands, and jerk or throw these down again on the other part of the paste; continue working it in this fashion for five minutes, then, if the sponge is sufficiently risen, spread it out over the paste and mix both together lightly. A large mould should now be spread with butter, and lined not more than half through with a thin coating of the paste, and as soon as this has been effected, all the fruit, the rum, the brandy, and an infusion of the saffron, must be added; the whole of which must be instantly well mixed and lifted into the mould. The baba should next be set, to rise gradually, in a place where the ~ temperature is moderate and free from any current of air; and as ‘soon as it has risen in a satisfactory manner, which may easily be known by its increasing sufficiently in quantity (through fermenta- tion), to nearly fill the mould,—although at first only half filled, the baba should be immediately placed in the oven on a thick baking-sheet, with a thick roll of paper round the bottom of the mould to protect the baba from receiving too much heat at first. From one hour and a half to two hours will suffice to bake it. Particular care should be taken in baking the baba, to prevent its acquiring a deep colour; to obviate this, it must be baked in an oven of moderate heat. 1271. COMPIEGNE CAKE. InGREDIENTS :—Two pounds of flour, twenty-two ounces of butter, half a pint of double cream, six ounces of pounded sugar, two wine- glasses of maraschino, one ounce of German yeast, fifteen eggs, and ‘half an ounce of salt. Set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast in PARISIAN CAKE. 399 the usual way (see Brioche, No. 1269), and while it is rising, prepare the paste as follows :-— | Place the remainder of the flour on the marble slab, spread it out in the centre to form the well, place in this the salt, and sugar (witha very little water to dissolve the salt), the butter and eggs, and pro- ceed to mix these thoroughly in the same way as brioche ; just before adding the sponge, mix in the maraschino and the whipped cream. The paste must be instantly lifted into an appropriate-sized mould, previously spread with butter, and deposited in a comparatively-cool place to rise, or ferment in the usual manner ; as soon as it has nearly reached the surface of the mould, stick a band of paper round the edge, and put it in the oven to bake, at a very moderate heat ; remem- bering that an essential characteristic of this kind of cake, is a light colour. It is customary to eat the Compiégne cake hot, and it is served in various ways. When turned out of the mould, a small piece should be taken out of the centre of the top, and a few glasses of maraschino poured in through the opening ; or, the cake may be cut up in hori- zontal slices half an inch thick, and previously to putting them together again, some apricot marmalade may be placed between each. Dried cherries and angelica may be introduced in the composition of these cakes, previously to their being baked. ; 1272. GERMAN KOUGLAUFF. INGREDIENTS :—T'wo pounds of flour, one pound and a quarter of butter, eight whole eggs, and eight yolks; one and a quarter ounce of German yeast, four ounces of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon powder, and grated lemon-peel, or the rind of lemon rubbed on lump sugar, and afterwards scraped off, half an ounce of salt, half a pint of single cream, and six ounces of Jordan almonds. First, place the butter in a convenient-sized white kitchen pan, and work it with a clean wooden spoon for about ten minutes, by which time the butter should present the appearance of a thick cream ; the cinnamon, lemon and sugar, the pounded sugar, about one-fourth part of the flour, and three eggs should then be added, and the whole quickly worked together for a few minutes; then add the remainder of the flour and eggs gradually, still continuing to work the paste with the wooden spoon. When the whole has been used up, spread the paste out in the centre, and add the yeast (previously dissolved with the salt in the cream made tepid for the purpose) ; work the whole thoroughly, then pour this batter into a large mould, previously spread with butter, split the almonds, and place them round the inside of the mould in close order. Bake the houglaif’ in an oven of moderate heat. Its colour should be of a bright reddish yellow. In Germany, it is customary to shake,ssome cinnamon sugar all over this kind of cake as soon as it is turned out of the mould. Ve es PARISIAN CAKE, INGREDIENTS :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, eight whole eggs and eight yolks, one pint of single cream, eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two ounces of bitter ditto, eight ounces of pistachio kernels, four ounces of candied orange-peel, half an ounce of salt, one and a quae ounce of yeast. ‘ . # Say, “*. Ae 400 CAKES. First, let the pistachio kernels be scalded, remove the hulls, split each kernel into four strips, and place these aside in a small basin, The candied orange-peel must then be shred into small thin narrow strips, and put with the pistachios. Next, remove the hulls from the almonds, wash and pound them into a very soft paste (adding a few drops of water to prevent them from becoming oily), then mix them with the cream, and after they have steeped for half an hour, let the whole be rubbed through a tammy, the same as a purée, and kept in a very cool piace until wanted for use. For mixing this cake, follow in all respects the directions given for the German houglaiff (No. 1272), adding the pistachios and orange- peel after lining the mould with the plain paste: the yeast must be dissolved in a little tepid water, and the almonds and cream added cold. It should be baked nearly of the same colour as a Savoy cake. Note.—It is necessary to put all these cakes back in the oven for two or three minutes, after they are turned out of the mould, to pre- vent them from /ecoming shrivelled on the surface, or from otherwise shrinking and falling in, which is unavoidably the case when any steam has collected upon them. 1274. VICTORIA CAKE. IneREeDieNTS :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, twelve eggs, six ounces of pounded sugar, six ounces of ground or pounded almonds, also a few bitter ditto, eight ounces of dried cher- ries, four ounces of green citron cut up in shreds, half an ounce of cinnamon powder, half a pint of whipped: cream, one ounce and a quarter of German yeast, two wine-glasses of brandy, and half an ounce of salt. Mix the above ingredients according to the directions given for the German kouglaif’; except that the yeast must be dissolved in a spoonful of tepid water, and the cream whipped. previously to its being added the last thing. When the cake is mixed, it should be placed in a tin hoop, measuring about ten inches in diameter by four tches deep. A double sheet of paper, spread with butter, should be first placed on a stout copper baking-sheet, and the hoop, also lined with paper, next placed upon it, ready to receive the mixture. As soon as the fermentation of the paste has taken place in a satisfactory degree, causing it to increase to twice its original quantity, let it be immediately put in the oven (at moderate heat), and baked of a light colour. This kind of cake may be served as a second-course remove ; some apricot marmalade diluted with a little lemon juice and warmed, should be sent to table with it separately in a sauce-boat, or, if pre- ferred, instead of the apricot, some German custard sauce, made in the folowing,manner:— ~~ Put four yolks of eggs in. a middle-sized bain-marie, and add two _ ounces of pounded sugar, two wine-glasses of Sherry, and the rind ot an orange or lemon grated on sugar. Place the bain-marie contaiming these ingredients in a larger stewpan with water sufficient to reach about one inch up the outside of the bain-marie ; set this on a slow -stove-fire, and commence whisking or milling the contents briskly vntil it appears like a rich-looking frothy custard. Be careful not to SAVOY CAKE. 401 allow the cream to become too hot, as that would set the yolks of eggs, and thereby decompose the custard. 1274a. SAVARIN CAKE. INGREDIENTS :—T'wo pounds of flour, four ounces of sugar, twenty ounces of fresh butter, fifteen eggs, half an ounce of salt, one ounce of German yeast, and four ounces of blanched and shred almonds. First, set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour, and the yeast, in the same manner as directed for making brioche. Then, while the sponge is placed in a moderate temperature, to admit of its rising gradually and satisfactorily, place the remainder of the flour in a large white pan or basin, hollow out the centre, and having first laced therein the salt, moistened with a tea-spoonful of water, the utter, sugar, and ten whole’ eggs broken, proceed to manipulate the whole with the right hand, beating up the paste until it easily leaves the sides of the pan; you then break in the remainder of the eggs, two at a time, until the paste has absorbed the whole; and, after having continued to work it five minutes longer, proceed to fill an appropriate-sized mould with it in manner following :—First, let the inside of the mould be well buttered, after which, strew the shred - almonds equally over and about the surface of the interior; next, work tne paste up again for a minute or two, and put a sufficient quantity thereof into the mould to rather more than half fillit. You now place the Savarin in a moderate temperature to rise until it has nearly filled the mould; when, after first sticking a broad band of thick paper round the upper part of the mould, so as effectually to prevent the batter from running over the sides of the mould, while it is being baked, put it into an oven of moderate heat, and bake it for about two hours. When done, turn the Savarin out of the mould, and after first running a knife into several parts of the surface, pour gently a rather thick orange syrup, containing a glassful of curagao, over and into the Savarin, and send to table quite warm. This kind of cake is sometimes, in order to vary its appearance, after being first well soaked-with a warm rich syrup, rolled all over in orange or lemon sugar. . 1275. SAVOY CAKE. InGREDIENTS :—One pound of the finest quality of sugar (pounded), fourteen eggs, four ounces and a half of the finest flour, and four ounces and a half of potato flour. First, separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, taking care not to drop the least portion of the yolks into the whites, as any mix- ture of these renders it impossible to whisk the whites firm. The yolks must be put into a kitchen basin, and the whites into an egg bowl, to be kept in a cool place until used. Add the sugar to the yolks, throw in as much salt as will stand on a sixpence, and either some vanilla, lemon, or orange sugar, or else a few drops of any kind of essence, such as orange, lemon, orange-flowers, vanilla, or bitter almonds. Work these together with a wooden spoon, until the whole presents the appearance of a thick creamy batter. The whites must now be whisked into a firm substantial snowy froth; while this is going on, let both the wheaten and potate flour be well mixed in witk ra By) 402 CAKES the batter. As soon as the whites are satisfactorily whisked,* pro- ceed to mix them also in with the batter: they must be added in small quantities at first, until it has become smoothly diluted; the whole of what remains should then be added, and gently yet thoroughly mixed. The batter thus prepared, must now be gently poured into a mould previously prepared for the purpose in the following manner :— About one pound of beef or veal suet should be first chopped very fine, then melted down in a stewpan; after it has been strained through a napkin, pour this into the mould, turn it round in all directions, so that the fat may touch all the angles and recesses; it must then be poured out, and the mould should be turned upside down on a plate, and allowed to stand in a warm place, for a few minutes, that the fat may be entirely drained off. About one pound of the finest sifted sugar should now be immediately put into the mould, and shaken about in it, in order that it may effectually cover the whole of the inside of the mould with a perfectly smooth white surface. Care must be taken to avoid leaving a greater quantity of fat adhering to the sides of the mould than is positively necessary ;. for if there be too thick a coating of sugar in the mould, the Savoy cake will be more difficult to bake of a light colour; the heat of the oven being liable to partially calcine the sugar, and thus darken its hue. When the Savoy cake is ready to be baked, tie a broad band of paper (folded in three) round the base, and put a few wood-ashes on. the baking-sheet, previously to placing the cake on the latter, before putting it in the oven, which must be of very moderate heat; parti- cular care must be taken to keep it closed as much as possible while the cake is baking, and also not to increase its temperature after- wards: this may be easily avoided, if the oven be substantially built,+ by its being properly heated at first, it will then retain for some time an even temperature. It is impossible to determine on the exact length of time that this, or, indeed, any other cake should remain in the oven before it is done; this will mainly depend upon the construction of the oven, and partly: on the necessity there may be for occasionally opening it during the process ¢f baking the cake. * The whites must be whisked slowly at first, increasing the motion of the hand’ gradually until it reaches the greatest possible speed: the motion of the whisk must be kept up at this rate, until the whites are become sufficiently firm, when they must be instantiy mixed in with the batter,—otherwise they are liable, by partial decomposition, to lose their consistency. + Brick ovens are best adapted for baking all kinds of large cakes, pies, &c.: the reason of this is chiefly owing to their being generally constructed of a superior kind of bricks and tiles, requiring, from their compactness, one or two hours to heat them thoroughly; such an oven is, therefore, capable of retaining its heat a much longer time than one built of iron; unless, indeed, when the latter happens to be very substantially made, which is too seldom the case. Iron-built ovens are also desirable, as well for their economy of fuel as for the short time in which they may be heated ; and, further, on account of the celerity and convenience with which one person may prepare large quan- tities of small pastry, and bake it also. This could not so easily be done with a brick oven by only one person; as when it happens that a large oven is full of pastry, some one must be in constant attendance, in order.to watch, and regulate the different degrees of heat or baking which the several articles require, and determine their stay and position in the oven accordingly. All this needs the most vigilant care and attention, in order to secure success in the baking of delicate pastry; for, however well it may have beer pre+ pared, if it is not equally well baked, the result will be unsatisfactory. FINGER BISCUITS. 403 The best way to ascertain whether the cake be done is to run a wooden skewer down the centre, and if, when withdrawn, the skewer is dry, and free from any portion of the cake in an unbaked state, it — will be safe to turn it out of the mould; it should then be of a light colour and smooth surface. ; Note.—Savoy cakes may also be made by using twelve, sixteen, or even twenty eggs to one pound of sugar; but when a cake of large size is required, the proportions must be at the rate of twelve, fourteen, or at the utmost sixteen eggs to one pound of sugar; even in the latter case, such batter would not prove successful where four pounds are required to fill one mould. Savoy-cake batter made in the pro- portion of sixteen or twenty eggs to one pound of sugar, is. best adapted for small sponge cakes, finger biscuits, drops, &c. 1276. FINGERS, OR NAPLES BISCUITS. Prepares the batter as directed in the foregoing case; then filla biseuit-forcer with some of it, and after securely folding down the open end, proceed to use the batter in the following manner :—Cut a sheet of foolscap paper in two, fold these lengthwise, in order to mark a _ straight line along the centre of the half-sheets; the forcer must then be held in the right hand, pressing the batter out by working the thumb upon it, while the pointed end must be guided with the left hand. In this manner the biscuits must be spread, or rather dropped in straight lines, resembling fingers, about three inches long by half an inch wide: they should form two rows, being divided by the line in the centre of the paper. When the sheet is full, place it upon a large sheet of kitchen paper (or demy) containing about one pound of the finest sifted sugar, placed in the form of a ridge along the upper part of the paper as it lies on the table before you; the sheet con- taining the biscuits being placed just below the sugar, it will only be necessary to lift up the other paper at each corner with the hands, and by giving 1t a slight jerk, the sugar will be thrown on to the biscuits: then, by taking hold of the paper, holding the biscuits at each upper corner, and gently shaking it as it is held up in a perpen- dicular position, the sugar will be made to slide over the whole at once. By this means the biscuits are effectually glazed without waste. The finger biscuits must be immediately placed on a baking-sheet, and put in the oven (at very moderate heat) ; about a quarter of an hour will suffice to bake them. When done, they should be of a very light yellow colour. / | Note-—With the same kind of batter, and by using a biscuit- forcer,* the shape of these small biscuits may be easily varied accor- ding to taste or fancy. 1277. PLUM CAKE. INGREDIENTS required :—One pound and a half of flower, one pound and a half of butter, one pound of fine sugar, one pound of driea * These biscuit-forcers are also made of tin, resembling « funnel in shape; they have hag of wash-leather, or canvas cloth, affixed round the upper part, with a string run- ring through the top, which, when the bag is filled with batter, is drawn tight, thus effectually preventing it from escaping at the upper end, while it is forced out at the pomt below. The use of this utensil, however, is objectionable, from the leather or can vas contracting a nauseous odour, In other respects it answers the purpose well enough. 2p 2 oft 404 | CAKES. cherries (slightly chopped), one pound and a half of currants, one pound and a half of candied orange, lemon, and citron peel, in equal quantities,—all these must be cut in small shreds; eight ounces of ground or pounded almonds, eight whole eggs, the zest or rind of four oranges (rubbed on a piece of sugar and afterwards scraped off), half an ounce of ground spices, consisting of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, mixed in equal proportions, half a pint of Cognac brandy, and a tea- spoonful of salt. Place the butter in a large white earthen pan, and work it with a wooden spoon until it presents the appearance of a creamy substance ;: next add gradually the flour, sugar, and the eggs, still continuing to work the batter the whole of the time. When these have been thoroughly mixed, the cherries, currants, candied-peel, ground almonds, brandy, spices, and salt, must also be added gradually, and as soon as these ingredients are incorporated with the batter, let the preparation be poured into a convenient-sized tin hoop (previously lined with double bands of buttered paper), and placed on a stout-made copper baking-sheet, with two sheets of buttered paper under the cake, to prevent the composition from becoming calcined by the heat of the oven. A moderate heat will be sufficient to bake this cake, and care must be taken not to put any fire under the oven while it is baking, so as to increase the heat. These cakes when baked should be iced over with sugar in the following manner :— First, mix eight ounces of very fine pounded almonds with double that quantity of fine sifted sugar, a little orange-water, and sufficient whites of eggs to form the whole into a soft paste; spread a coating of this all over the surface of the cake (after it has become cold) ; and when it is hardened by drying, let the whole be iced over with the following praparation :— Place about six whites of eggs in a convenient-sized basin, add about one pound and a half of the finest sifted loaf-sugar, and work these well together, with a clean wooden spoon, adding occasionally a little lemon-juice, until the whole presents the appearance of a very thick yet comparatively liquid shiny substance of a pure white. Use this icing to mask the entire surface of the cake, with a coating about a quarter of an inch thick; allow this to become firmly set, by drying, for which purpose the cake should be placed in a warm tem- »erature, and kept covered with a large sheet of paper, to preserve it from dust, &c. When the icing has become perfectly hard, decorate the top and sides of the cake with raised ornaments of gum paste, (stamped out from boards cut for the purpose) and arranged with taste, either in the form of garlands, wreaths, scrolls, &c.; or else, the cake may be decorated with piping, using for that purpose some of the icing worked somewhat thicker, by adding to it more sugar and a ttle prepared gum-dragon. When intended for a wedding cake, the ornaments must be all white, and some blossoms and sprigs—or, even wreaths of orange- flowers should also be introduced. 1278. SCOTCH BREAD. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, half a ‘pound of candied lemon, orange, and BRUSSELS BISCUITS. 405 citron peel in equal proportions, a gill of Cognac brandy, a very little salt, and four ounces of white comfits. Put the butter in a basin, work it with a wooden spoon until it presents the appearance of thick cream; then add the flour, sugar, eggs, and salt, gradually, throwing in a handful of each, and two eggs at a time, when the whole is thoroughly mixed, the candied peel (cut in shreds), also the brandy and the rind of two oranges or lemons (rubbed on sugar) must next be added. This paste should now be poured into tins of an oblong shape, about two inches deep, spread with butter, and after the comfits have been strewn over the surface, a little fine sugar should be shaken over the top previously to placing them in the oven on baking sheets: they must be baked of a very light colour. Note.—This kind of cake is a general favourite in Scotland, being served on most occasions, at breakfast, luncheon, or for casual re- freshment, and also with the dessert. 1279. PLAIN SEED CAKE. INGREDIENTS :—One quartern of dough, six eggs, eight ounces of sugar, eight ounces of butter, half an ounce of carraway-seeds and a tea-spoonful of salt. Spread the dough out on the pastry-slab, then add the whole of the above-named ingredients, work them well together with the hands, so as thoroughly to incorporate them with the dough: the eggs should be added two at a time. When the paste is ready, put it into a plain mould (previously spread with butter), and set it to rise in a warm place. As soon as the fermentation has taken place in a satisfactory manner, the cake should be immediately put into the oven and baked of a light colour. When done, serve it cold for luncheon, or otherwise. This kind of cake may be varied by introducing raisins, currants, or candied orange or lemon peel. 1280. BRUSSELS BISCUITS, OR RUSKS. INGREDIENTS required :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, half an ounce of German yeast, four ounces of sugar, four whole eggs, and four yolks, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a gill of cream. Mix the paste in the manner described for the preparation of the Compiegne cake, excepting that this must be beaten with the hand on the slab until it presents an appearance of elasticity; the sponge should then be added, and after the whole has been well worked once more, the paste must be placed in long narrow tins, about two inches deep, and of about the same width: preparatory to placing the paste in the moulds, these should be first well floured inside (to prevent the paste from sticking), then the paste rolled out to their own length, and about one inch and a half thick, dropped into them, and set in a warm place to rise. When the paste has sufliciently risen, it must be gently turned out on a baking-sheet previously spread with butter, then egged all over with a soft paste-brush, and baked of a bright deep-yellow colour. When done, cut them up in slices about _a quarter of an inch thick, place them flat on a baking-sheet, and put them again in the oven to acquire a light-yellow colour on both sides. 406 CAKES. These form a superior kind of rusks, and are well adapted for the refreshment table at evening parties, or for the breakfast table. Note.—Rusks may also be made with brioche-paste, pound cake, or Savoy cake ; in the latter case a few carraway seeds are sometimes added. 1281. POUND CAKE. INGREDIENTS required :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, a wine glass of brandy, a little salt, and the rind of two oranges or lemons rubbed on sugar. Place the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden spoon until - it assumes the appearance of thick cream; then add the flour, sugar, and the eggs gradually ; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated, add the brandy, sugar and salt; mix well together, and bake the cakes in any kind of mould (previously spread with butter), or in a tin hoop lined with buttered paper. | Plumbs, currants, almonds, pistachio-kernels, candied-peel, or dried — cherries may be added. 1282. FLEMISH GAUFFRES. INGREDIENTS required :—Hight ounces of flour, six ounces of but- - ter, six eggs, one ounce of yeast, half a pint of milk, half a pint of - cream (whipped), the rind of-two oranges rubbed on sugar, or a stick of vanilla pounded with half an ounce of sugar, and a little salt. Put the flour into a gallon-sized basin, spread it out in the centre, then add the milk (with the yeast dissolved in it over the fire until the whole becomes tepid) ; mix these gradually and thoroughly; then take the spoon out, scrape the sides of the basin with a knife, cover it with paper, and set the batter to rise in the screen. When the sponge has increased to twice its original quantity, the butter should first be merely melted by the fire, and then added with the salt, orange sugar, and two whole eggs; mix these well in with the sponge, then add the whipped cream and the yolks of the four eggs, and lastly, after having whipped the four whites into a substantial froth, mix them lightly in with the batter, and again set it.to rise in a warm > place, either on the top of the screen or on the kitchen table, that it may rise to twice its original quantity. While the batter is being prepared, let the gauffre-irons be heated over the flame of a charcoal fire, and when sufficiently hot to admit of their baking the gauffres, run a. little clarified butter through them with a paste-brush, then fill one side of the irons with some of the batter, handling it gently witha spoon; close the irons, and then turn them upside down (that the batter may run into the opposite side), and set them over the flame of the charcoal fire, and when done of a bright-yellow colour on one side, turn the irons over, that the gauffres may be baked also on the other side. They must then be turned out of the irons, and after the edges have been trimmed with. a pair of Scissors, set them in the oven or before a fire on a baking-sheet covered with paper. Repeat this until the whole: of the batter be ased up ; then, shake some orange, lemon, or vanilla sugar over them, pile them up neatly on a napkin, and serve. These gaufres are generally served as a remove in the second . course. * ~ he’ 5 —= “a GAUFFRES. LOF" 1283. FRENCH GAUFFRES. INGREDIENTS required:—EHight ounces of flour, four ounces of : pounded sugar, one pint of whipped cream, eight eggs, one stick of " vanilla, a little salt, and a glass of curacao. : _ Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a basin, then add the yolks of eggs, the pounded vanilla, and the curacao, and mix these well together, gradually adding the whipped cream : just before using the batter, add the whipped whites of eggs, and mix them in lightly so as to thoroughly incorporate them with it. Bake these gauffres in the same way as the foregoing, observing, however, that the iron be very carefully heated, and the superfluous heat allowed to go off previously to fillmg them with the batter; as, owing to the presence of sugar in their composition, they readilly acquire colour. When done, shake some vanilla-sugar over them, and send to table. | 7 These gauffres. may be spread with some kind of preserve; such as apricot, currant-jelly, &c. : P) 1284., ALMOND GAUFFRES. INGREDIENTS required :—Eight ounces of Jordan almonds (either chopped extremely fine, or else cut into very fine shreds), four ounces of pounded sugar, a good table-spoonful of flour, two whole eggs, and a ee little salt; flavour with orange-flower water, or flowers (can- died). ve the almonds, sugar, flour, and the flavourmg together in a basin, with a wooden spoon. Then heat a baking-sheet in the oven, rub it all over equally with a piece of white wax, and when this has cooled, spread the gauffres very thinly over it with a fork ; put them “in the oven (at a slow heat), and when they are about half-baked, withdraw them, and with a circular tin-cutter about two inches in diameter, stamp out as many gauffres as the sheet will admit of, and put them back again in the oven that they may acquire a light-fawn colour; they should then be instantly taken out and formed in the shape of small cornucopiz—two or three persons assisting,—so as to finish them off before they have time to get cold, as in that case they become brittle, and consequently unmanageable. But when it hap- pens that one person only is able to attend to them, it will be neces- sary to keep the gauffres at the entrance of the oven while they are shaped, and, as they are finished, to place them on another baking- sheet. These gauffres may also be cut into pieces two inches square, and coiled round a small roller in the form of barrels; the ends of these, after being first covered with whipped white of ege mixed with a little sugar, should then be dipped in some finely chopped pistachios, and placed on a baking-sheet to dry in the skreen. In either case they may be filled with whipped cream seasoned with vanilla, orange flowers, or maraschino, and some strawberries placed on the top ot this: they are sometimes also garnished with vanilla cream-ice. Note.—This kind of gauffres may be varied in their appearance, by strewing some currants, or finely shred or chopped pistachios over the » surface, previously to their being placed in the oven. 4 “408 NOUGATS, 1285. NOUGATS. | _ Ine@ruprents required :—Two pounds of Jordan almonds, and one pound of sifted sugar. : Scald the almonds, remove the skins, and after they have been washed and dried in a napkin, split each almond into halves; then place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in a slow oven to acquire a very light fawn colour. While the almonds are undergoing this process in the oven, place the sugar in a convenient-sized sugar-boiler, and stir it with a wooden spoon over a slow fire to melt it: as soon as. it is entirely dissolved, and begins to form small purling bubbles on the surface, the almonds (which by this time should be ready and: quite hot) must be instantly thrown in, and very gently mixed with, the sugar, care being taken not to break or bruise them. The vessel containing the nougat should be kept at the entrance of the oven or near the stove-fire, so as to prevent its becoming cold before it is used up. The mould intended to be used must then be first carefully oiled inside with a paste-brush, and set to drain on a plate that the super- fluous oil may run off. Some of the nougat should now be dropped on a slightly-oiled baking-sheet, and spread out with a lemon to the thickness of about the eighth of aninch; and as these pieces are thus spread or pressed out, they must be immediately placed in the mould, and pressed into its form with the assistance of the fingers and a lemon, and made to adhere effectually to each other great celerity must be used in this part of the operation, as in the event of the nougat being allowed to become brittle by cooling, it would be found impossible to build it up, unless by melting it, which is seldom found to succeed. When the nougat has become set by cooling, turn it out of the mould, and serve it on a napkin or upon an ornamental stand. The foregoing proportions, as well as the directions for splitting the almonds, refer only to large nougats ; when itis intended to make a smaller one, the almonds should be shred. In all cases, the propor- tion of almonds and sugar should be as two of the former to one of the latter. For the purpose of varying their appearance, as soon as the nougat is turned out of the mould, some shred pistachio-kernels and rough granite-sugar,* should be strewed over its surface. 1286. PARISIAN NOUGATS. INGREDIENTS required:—Hight ounces of pistachio-kernels, four ounces of sugar, and one stick of vanilla. Scald the pistachios, remove the skins, absorb all the moisture by gently rubbing them in a napkin, then split each kernel into halves, and put them to dry on a baking-sheet in the screen. Pound the vanilla with one ounce of sugar, sift it, and then put this and the four ounces of pounded sugar into a small sugar-boiler, together with a tea-spoonful of the prepared extract of cochineal: stir these over the stove-fire with a wooden spoon until the sugar is entirely melted, and as soon as it begins to purl on the surface, immediately add the pistachios, and gently mix the whole together, taking care not to * Granite-sugar is generally prepared by breaking up some loaf-sugar of the finest quality into very small pieces with the end of a rolling-pin; after sifting away all the fine sugar, the pieces are then passed through a colander with large holes. All that passes fhrough this may be used for the above purpose. But when the granite is required finer, it must be riddled through a wire sieve, # ¥ GENOESE CAKES. 409 bruise the pistachios. The nougat must now be spread out in the form of a square on a baking-sheet or marble slab (previously oiled), to the thickness of about the eighth part of an inch; some roughly- proken granite sugar should be strewed over the surface, and before it becomes cold, the square must be divided into two bands, and then again each of these cut in about a dozen small oblong nougats.. When about to send to table, pile them up in close circular rows on a napkin, and serve. 1287. SMALL NOUGATS, A LA CHANTILLY. INGREDIENTS required :—Three-quarters of a pound of ripe filberts, and six ounces of pounded sugar. Scald the nuts, remove the skin, then split each kernel in four— lengthwise, and put them to dry on a baking-sheet in the oven; meanwhile, stir the sugar in the boiler over the fire in the usual manner, and as soon as it is ready, mix in the above; have halfa dozen small dariole-moulds ready, oiled inside, put some of the nougat into each of the moulds, and use a small stick made of hard wood (about half an inch in diameter) to work the nowgat up the sides, or into the flutes of the moulds; pare away all that may rise above the edge of the moulds, and then turn them out on to a baking-sheet. About eighteen will suffice for a dish. Several persons should assist in moulding these nougats, in order to insure their all being of one colour; otherwise, from being frequently obliged to warm the nougat, it is liable to become dark. | When about to send these nougats to table, each should be fillea with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla or maraschino, and a few strawberries (when in season) placed on the top ; dish them up neatly in a pyramidal form on a napkin. 1288. GENOESE CAKES. INGREDIENTS required :—Half a pound of ficur, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, four eggs, a small glass of brandy, and a little salt. Mix the flour, sugar, eggs, brandy, and salt, well together in’a basin with a wooden spoon; then add the butter (merely melted by the side of the fire), and when this is thoroughly incorporated with the batter, pour it into an appropriate-sized baking-sheet, previously spread with butter, to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, and > bake this in an oven moderately heated. When the Genoese paste is done, it should be turned out upon a sheet of paper, and cut or stamped out, either in circular, oblong, oval, angular, leaf-like, or any other fancy shapes that taste may sug- gest. These may then be decorated with white of egg and sugar repared as for meringues (No. 1298), or with icing prepared as Licdated for wedding cakes (No. 1277), and ornamented with pista- chio-kernels, currants, &c. Those cut in the form of leaves, rings, oblongs, &c., may be ornamented by forming a design composed of Jeayes and pearls (using for that purpose some meringue-paste in a piper cornet, or small biscuit-forcer) ; when the Genoese cakes are ornamented in this manner, shake some fine sugar over them with a dredger, and dry them either in the screen or at the entrance of the oven ; then, finish decorating them by placing some neat stripes or dots of any kind of bright preserve, such as red-urrant jelly, apple jelly, apricot jam, green-gage jam, &c., between the leaves or pearls of the white of egg decoration. By these means a very pretty effect 1s produced, and as no artificial or unwholesome substance is used in its composition, it may be partaken of with safety. 9 . . 410 CAKES. 1289. GENOESE CAKES, WITH ALMONDS. PREPARE these as directed in the foregomg case, and when they are nearly done, mask the surface with the white of an egg beat up with an ounce of sifted sugar; then strew four ounces of chopped almonds, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and a few drops of orange- flower water, all over the coating of egg; shake a little sugar on the top of this, and put the Genoese cakes back again in the oven, to finish baking. When done, the coating of almonds should be of a _~ light-fawn colour: they must then be carefully removed from the baking-sheet, cut or stamped out in shapes, according to fancy, and dished up on a napkin, in a pyramidal form. 1290. MADELEINES. THESE are made with the same kind of batter as Genoese cakes, to which currants, dried cherries, candied peel or angelica, may be added. When the batter is ready, let it be poured into a sufficient number of small fluted or plain dariole or madeleine moulds (previously buttered inside) ; these must be placed on a baking-sheet spread with some charcoal ashes, to the depth of half an inch, and then baked in an oven of a moderate heat. When they are done, turn them out of the moulds, and dish them up in a pyramidal form. These cakes may also be partially emptied, then filled up with some kind of-preserve, and the small circular piece, removed previously to taking out the crumb, should be replaced. 1291. SPANISH CAKES, PETITS-CHOUX. INGREDIENTS required :—Half a pint of milk or water, four ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, five ounces of flour, three eggs, a few drops of essence of orange, a very little salt, and two ounces of chopped almonds. Put the water, butter, sugar, and the salt into a stewpan on the fire, and as soon as these begin to boil, withdraw the stewpan from the fire, and add the flour; stir the whole well together with a wooden spoon over the stove-fire for about three minutes ; by which time the ingredients should present the appearance of a soft compact paste. The essence of orange (or any other kind of flavour) should now be added, and also one egg; incorporate these with the paste, then mix in the other two eggs, and if the paste should be stiff, another egg, or a yolk only, may be added. This paste should now be laid out on a baking-sheet in small round balls, the size of a pigeon’s egg, egged over with a paste-brush, some chopped almonds (mixed with a spoon- ful of pounded sugar, and a very small quantity of white of egg) _ strewn upon them, with some sifted sugar shaken over, and then baked of a very light colour. These cakes may be served plain, or garnished inside with cream or some kind of preserve. & ¢ MECCA LOAVES. ‘ ~All 1292. DUCHESS LOAVES. THESE are made of the same kind of paste as the foregoing: this _ must be laid out on the pastry-slab, in small pieces about the size of a pigeon’s egg, then rolled out with a little flour, in the form of a finger, and placed in order upon a baking-sheet spread with butter ; they should now be egged over, and baked of a bright light colour. _ Just before they are quite done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over _ them, set them back again in the oven until the sugar is nearly melted, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them, to give them a bright _glossy appearance ; the loaves must now be immediately withdrawn from the oven, and allowed to cool. Just before sending this kind of pastry to table, make an incision down the sides, and fill the smail loaves with apricot-jam, then dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve. 1293. PETITS-CHOUX,* WITH CARAMEL. PREPARE these as the above, except that they must be rolled and _ baked in the form of round balls, which, when done, should be about the size of an ege. About two ounces of roughly-chopped pistachios, _a few cleaned currants, and an equal proportion of loaf sugar, chopped small, should be mixed together on a plate; then boil about four ounces of sugar, first dipping each petit-choux slightly in this, then gently roll in the prepared pistachios, &c., so as to mask its surface with these. When the whole have been thus passed in the sugar- caramel, allow them to cool previously to dishing them up. 1294. PROFITROLLES. Prepare two dozen petits-choux as directed in the first part of the foregoing article ; when they are baked and have become cold, cut a circular piece from the top of each, about the size of a shilling ; then, fill them with some custard, prepared as follows :—Put the yolks of four eggs into a small stewpan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, a good table-spoonful of flour, two ounces of grated chocolate, and a very little salt ; mix these well together with half a pint of cream, add a small pat of butter, then stir the whole over the stove-fire, and allow it to boil for about ten minutes; this custard should now be passed through a tammy (with pressure) into a basin, and when it has become cold, three table-spoonfuls of whipped cream should be added; then serve. This custard may also be flavoured either with lemon, orange, vanilla, orange-flower, or any kind of liqueur; in which case the chocolate must be omitted. 1295. MECCA LOAVES. Tu paste for these is prepared as in the foregoing cases, with the addition however of a few spoonfuls of whipped cream, which must only be incorporated just previously to the loaves being laid out on the baking-sheet in the following manner :— Take a table-spoon, and fill it half full from the stewpan, containing the paste; then, dip the point of a knife in some beaten egg, and use it to force the paste from the spoon, gently dropping it on the baking- * Pronounced by English cooks, ¢ Petty-shoes.” 412 CAKES. sheet in the form of a gherkin, pointed at the ends, and elevated at the centre: fill the baking-sheet with these, placmg them about two inches distant from each other; egg them over, shake some fine chopped loaf sugar (about the size of small hail stones) overthem, then, shake some sifted sugar upon them, and put them in the oven (at very moderate heat), to bake of a bright-yellow colour. When the Mecca loaves are done, allow them to become cold ; then after they have been dished up in double circular rows, fill the well or centre with some whipped cream seasoned with a little sugar, and a small glass of liqueur, and serve. 1296. QUEEN’S CAKES. First, prepare eight yolks of eggs of nouilles paste (No. 1256), roll this out as thin as paper, cut it into bands, and shred these ex- tremely fine ; after the nouilles have been allowed to dry upon a sieve for a short time, put them into a convenient-sized stewpan, with a pint of boiling cream, two pats of butter, six ounces of sugar, and a glass of brandy; set them to boil very gently over a slow stove-fire (covered with the lid), and when the cream has been absorbed by the nouilles, withdraw them, add the yolks of six eggs, and stir the whole well together; then place this preparation upon two baking- sheets (spread with butter), in layers about the eighth part of an inch thick, and bake these of a deep-yellow colour. When done, spread one of them with apricot-jam, cover this over with the other, and then stamp the cakes out with a circular tin-cutter, in the form of half-moons ; dish these up in double circular rows, so as to form a cone, and serve. These cakes may also be garnished with any other kind of preserve, or even with pastry-custard (No. 1811) ; they may be cut out, either in oblong, circular, oval, leaf-like, or diamond shapes. In order to vary their appearance, their surface should be first lightly spread with a little meringue-paste (No. 1298), and then strewn with chopped or shred pistachios, granite-sugar, or small pink or white comtfits. 1297; ALMOND CAKES, INGREDIENTS :—Six ounces of flour, eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of ground or finely-pounded almonds (with a few bitter al- monds), six yolks of eggs, two whole eggs, four whites whipped, a glass of brandy, a little salt, four ounces of chopped almonds mixed with two ounces of sugar, and half the white of an egg. . First work the butter in a basin with a spoon, until it presents a creamy appearance; next, add the flour, sugar, almonds, brandy, eggs, and salt, gradually ; then mix in the whipped whites of eggs, lightly : pour this paste on a baking-sheet about an inch and a half deep (previously buttered), and bake it of a light colour. When the cake is nearly done, spread the prepared chopped almonds over the top, and then put it back again into the oven to finish baking: when done, the almonds should be of a light-fawn colour. Turn the cake out carefully, and when cold, cut it up into bands about an inch and a half wide, then again divide these into diamond-shaped cakes, and dish them up pyramidally. Some whipped cream may be placed in the centre of the dish, and the cakes neatly dished up round it. in. * re 4 ‘ k. MERINGUES. * 418 Dried cherries, sultana-raisins, currants, any lind of candied peel, pistachios or Spanish nuts, may be added. The cakes may also be flavoured with any kind of essence or liqueur. 1298. MERINGUES. INGREDIENTS required:—One pound of sifted sugar, and twelve whites of egg. Whisk the whites in an ege-bowl, until they present the appearance of a perfectly white, smooth, substantial froth, resembling snow ; then substitute a spoon for the whisk, and proceed to mix in the whole of the sugar, lightly ; carefully avoid working the batter too much, for fear of rendering it soft, as in that case it becomes difficult to mould the meringues ; they can never be so gracefully shaped as when it is kept firm. Next, cut some stiff foolscap paper into bands about two inches wide; then take a table-spoon, and gather it nearly full of the batter, by working it up at the side of the bowl in the form of an egg, and drop this slopingly upon one of the bands of paper, at the same time drawing the edge of the spoon sharply round the outer base of the meringue, so as to give to it a smooth and rounded appearance, in order that it may exactly resemble an egg. Proceed in this manner until the band is full, keeping the merimgues about two inches and a half apart from each other on the paper; as each band is filled, place them close beside each other on the slab or table, and when all the batter is used up, shake some rather coarse sifted sugar all over them, and allow it to remain for about three minutes; then take hold of one the bands at each end, shake off the loose sugar, and place the band of mering s on the board:* and so on with the other bands, which when placed carefully on the boards closely side by side, must be put in the oven (at very moderate heat) and baked of a light-fawn colour. When done, each piece of meringue must be carefully removed from off the paper, the white part of the inside scooped out with a dessert spoon, and then nicely smoothed over; after this, they must be placed in neat order on a baking-sheet, and put back again in the oven to dry, taking particular care that they do not acquire any more colour. ‘ When about to send the meringues to table, whip some double cream, season it with a little pounded sugar, and either a glass of any kind of liqueur, a few drops of orange-flower water, or some pounded vanilla; garnish each piece with a spoonful of this cream, join two together, dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve. Note.—Meringues may be made of all sizes, and may also be shaped in the form of small bunches of grapes: for this purpose it is neces- sary to use a“ cornet,”’ or biscuit-forcer, of paper, to mould the berries. In order to vary their appearance, previously to shaking the sugar over them, some finely-shred pistachios or almonds, rough granite sugar, and small currants, may be strewn over them. ‘They may also be garnished with preserve, or any kind of iced-creams. * These boards must be made of seasoned wood, and should be about an inch’thick, their size must of course depend upon the dimensions of the oven, allogite sufficient room for them to be turned round in it. » % , 414 BISCUITS. 1298a. ITALIAN BISCUITS. INGREDIENTS :—Six eggs, eight ounces of pounded sugar, five ounces of flour, some orange or lemon sugar for flavouring, a pinch of salt, and six ounces of chopped almonds. First, divide the yolks from the whites of the six eggs, placing the whites in an egg-bowl, and the yolks in a basin; add the sugar, the flavouring, and the salt, to the yolks, and with a wooden spoon continue working these until they present the appearance ofarather stiff creamy batter. Then add half the flour, and when this has been well mixed in, let the six whites previously whipped firm, be also lightly mixed in, together with the remainder of the flour, taking care to keep the batter as firm and light as possible. ‘ You now fill a biscuit-forcer with some of the batter, and then pro- ceed to gently force out the batter on to baking-sheets (previously buttered and floured for the purpose), in round or oval shapes, twice the size of a five-shilling piece ; and when the whole of the batter is used up in this manner, let the chopped almonds be equally strewn over the biscuits; and, after some sugar has been shook over their surface with a dredger-box, they must be baked of a very light colour, in a rather slack oven. These cakes are most appropriate for dessert; but, when made of the size of a five-shilling piece, by first spreading any kind of fruit, jam, on the under part, and sticking two of them together, they may e neatly dished up, for a second-course dish, with some whipped — cream in the centre. 12986. VENETIAN BISCUITS. First prepare some Genoese as directed at No. 1289, which, when cold, must be carefully split in convenient-sized pieces, and after spreading the insides with apricot-jam, let them be pressed together again. You next spread a thin coating of white icing on one square of Genoese, and then spread a similar coating of pink icing on the other square; after which, each square must be cut into small oblong shapes of equal sizes; and when the icing has become dry, may be dished up, either for a second course-dish, or for dessert. 1298¢ SWEDES. INGREDIENTS :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of finely-shred almonds, four ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla (pounded and sifted), and one whole egg, and the white of another. Let the whole of the fore-named ingredients be well mixed together in a basin, and then with a tablespoon proceed to mould the preparation into round — balls the size of a large walnut, which are to be placed on pieces of sheet-wafer, previously cut to the size of half-crown pieces; these must now be placed on baking-sheets, and after slightly shaking some fine sugar over them, are td be baked of a light colour in a slack oven. These cakes may also be finished in manner following: the prepa- ratior, s2ould be spread about half an inch thick upon sheet-wafer, and after being baked of a light colour, and immediately on its being taken fromthe oven, should be cut into leaf-like shapes, and bent over a rolling ptm, till the pieces become cold and crisp. These cakes may be served either for dessert or a second-course dish; in the latter case, some whipped cream must be placed in the centre of the dish. 1298d. BROWN BREAD BISCUITS. __ Inereprents:—One pound of pounded sugar, eight ounces of brown flour, six ounces of Jordan almonds, ground or pulverised with- out being blanched or divested of their brown pellicule, six drops of the essence of bitter almonds, and one dozen eggs. Break the eggs, placing the yolks in a basin, and the whites in an egg-bowl; add the sugar, flour, almonds, and the flavouring to the yolks, and work these well together for twenty minutes with a wooden spoon; then mix in the whites previously whisked firm for the purpose, and with this batter proceed to fill as many small oblong or square aper cases as you may require for the purpose; which, after they fae been sugared over, should be baked in a very moderate oven. These biscuits are adapted for desert only. . 1298¢. GINGER CAKES. InegRepients :—One pound of flour, twelve ounces of fresh butter, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, two ounces of ground Jamaica Ginger, eight yolks of eggs. Work the whole of the above-named ingredients together on a pastry-board or slab; and, after having gathered the paste up into a compact mass, separate 1t into four parts, roll these out to the thick- ness of the sixth of an inch, one after the other, and with a tin-cutter, either oval, round, &c., &c., cut out as many cakes as the paste will produce, and place them on a slightly-buttered baking-sheet, pass a paste-brush over them when they are about half done, shake some sugar over them, and set them back in the oven to finish baking, of a very light colour. 1298/7. CHAMPAGNE BISCUITS. INGREDIENTS :—LHight ounces of flour, eight ounces of pounded sugar, eight ounces of fresh butter, eight eggs, a quarter of an ounce of carraway seeds, a pinch of salt. ; Place the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden spoon unti! it presents the appearance of thick cream; you then add the sugar, flour, yolks of eggs, the carraway seeds and the salt, gradually ; after which, mix in the eight whites of eggs previously whisked firm for the purpose. You now procure a sheet of stout cartridge-paper, which must be folded in reversed plaits so as that, when the paper is opened, it may present the appearance of the plaits of a fan, thus forming angular trenches about an inch deep. Next, fill a biscuit-forcer with some of the batter, and proceed to force-out some finger-like biscuits into the aforesaid paper trenches of about three inches long; shake some sifted sugar over these, and bake them of a light colour in a very moderate oven. These cakes are fit only: for dessert. 1298q9. ORANGE BISCUITS. TEsE are made with the same kind of batter as descrijg@d in the foregoing article, omitting in this case the carraway seed® and sub- 2 iG, BISCUITS. oa 415 i A16 -- BISCUITS. stituting in their place some orange-sugar and candied-orarige-peel cut into small shreds; some very small moulds must be slightly buttered, filled with some of the batter, some sugar sifted over them, and then baked of « very iight colour in a very moderate oven. 1298. PEACH BISCUITS. PREPARE some butter as directed for fingers (No. 1276), and, with this, proceed to form some small round biscuits (using a biseuit-forcer for that purpose) ona baking or sheet of paper ; if the former, it must be previously buttered and floured, shake some sugar over the biscuits, and bake them of a very light colour; and, when they are done, and removed from the baking-sheet or paper, spread the under parts with some kizd of preserved fruit (peach marmalade being most appro- priate), stick two of these together ; thus forming as nearly as possible the shape and size of a peach, these must now be very thinly covered all over with some white icing, which, when dry, must be very slightly brushed over with a soft pencil-brush dipped in a very small quantity of ,carmine, thereby giving to the cake merely a tinge of colour similar to that displayed by the ripe peach. These cakes may be dished up with whipped cream in the centre of the dish. 12987. APRICOT BISCUITS. . THESE are prepared in all respects according to directions given in the preceding article, excepting that they should be made smaller,— so that they may form a near resemblance to apricots in size and form, apricot jam being used to stick them together with; and, when so far prepared, are to be dipped in the following preparation :—To one pound of fine loaf sugar placed in a sugar-boiler, add half a pint of spring water; boil these over a brisk stove-fire until the sugar while boilmg throws up pearl-like bubbles; the degree of boiling required for glazing being ascertained by taking a small quantity of — the boiling sugar between the fore-finger and thumb (previously dipped in cold water), and if the sugar when pressed with the fingers presents the appearance of. strong glue, it should then be removed from the fire, and ten mitutes afterwards, whatever flavouring is intended to be used, must be in a liquid state, such as liqueurs, strong vanilla, orange or lemon syrups, or infusions: any one of the foregoimg must be gradually mixed in with the boiled sugar, quickly stirring and working the sugar in the pan the while; and, when thoroughly mixed, the cakes should be dipped in—and being afterwards placed on a wire drainer, placed in the hot closet for a few minutes to set. The yellow tinge required for the glacés in this case may be given by using either some orange-sugar or a small decoction of saffron ; the latter is objectionable, on account of its flavour. | 1298 k. CHOCOLATE GLACES. THe foundation for these may be made either of pound-cake, Ge- noese, or song-cake ; the batter for making either of the foregoing may be first baked in a baking-sheet, and afterwards cut out in shapes and sizes to suit taste or convenience; or otherwise may be baked im ap- propriate moulds or cases for the purpose; they must.then be dipped in the following preparation :—First, boil the sugar as directed in the foregoing article, and when. it has reached its proper degree, add six i ts A 4 = | be th - gunces of chocolate dissolved with a wine-glassful of water; work the whole well together, and use it while hot ; but, if it should become cold, and set before the operation is terminated, the preparation may be easily liquified by stirring it over the fire. Cakes both large and small may be glacés, or glazed, in this manner in almost infinite variety, by using any kind of liqueur, or a very an of tea or coffee instead of the chocolate here recom- mended. SICILIAN BISCUITS. — SR 1298 1. SUISSE LECRELETS. _ Inereprents:—LHight ounces of honey, four ounces of sweet-almonds, blanched and shred, half an ounce of cinnamon-powder, a quarter of an. ounce of ground cloves, half'a nutmeg grated, six ounces of pounded sugar, half an ounce of carbonate of potash, six ounces of candied orange, lemon and citron, a wine-glassful of Kirschen-wasser, ditto of orange-flower-water, and the grated rind of two lemons, one pound of flour, including the quantity required to manipulate the paste on the slab. | Put the honey in a copper egg-bow!l on the stove-fire, and when it - is melted, skim off the froth, and immediately add the shred almonds, the ground spices, and the grated lemon-peel ; mix these well together - with a wooden spoon, and then add the sugar, the Kirschen-wasser, the orange-flower-water, and the candied peels ready shred for the purpose ; and, after having mixed in these, then add the carbonate of potash dissolved in a table-spoonful of water, and also fourteen ounces of flour, leaving the remainder for manipulating the paste on the slab). This paste must now be gently stirred over the fire for three or four minutes longer, and then placed in a covered pan in a cool place for three days previously to its being used; the further process must be directed as follows :— Cut the Lecrelet-paste into four equal parts; and, after having first strewn the slab with some of the flour reserved for the purpose, roll out each of the four pieces to about the eighth pare of an inch thick ; these squares must now be placed on baking-sheets, previously buttered and floured for the purpose; and, after being deeply marked out or cut into small oblong-squares, must be rubbed over with a paste- brush dipped in water to remove the flour from the surface. Next, bake the slits in a rather slack oven of a light colour, and when they are about three parts done, let them be nearly cut through into shape, and immediately they have been brushed over with some thin white icing, replace them in the oven to finish being baked. When the Lecrelets have been withdrawn from the oven a suflicient time to have become cold, break them up as marked out, and put them away in a tin box in a dry place. : These cakes are well adapted for dessert, luncheon, or as a pleasant adjunct for the supper-tray. 1298 m. SICILIAN BISCUITS. {xGREDIENTS :—Four eggs, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, ten ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla pounded:, Whisk the eggs, the sugar, and the vanilla together m a copper egg-bowl, over a: ve.y slow stove-fire until the batter begins to feel warm ; it must then be reinoved from off the fire, and whisked briskly 2: 418 | | CAKES. until the batter becomes cold; the flour must now be lightiy added ~ in, and when thoroughly mixed, must be shaped upon prepared baking- sheets with the aid of a biscuit-forcer, in fingers, ovals or rounds; sugared over similarly to finger or Naples biscuits, and baked in a slack oven. 1298 n. RUSSIAN BISCUITS. In@reDIents :—Hight ounces of pounded sugar, ten eggs, six ounces of flour, four ounces cf almonds pounded and dried over the fire in a sugar-boiler, quarter of an ounce of aniseed. Let the yolks of the eggs and the sugar be whisked together in an ege-bowl over a slow-fire, until they present the appearance of a thick batter; the whites, previously whisked firm, must now be lightly added, as: also the flour, pounded almonds, and the aniseed. The batter thus produced, may either be baked in small moulds, or as is most appropriate for these biscuits, they should be baked in long tin moulds, or, failing these, in stout paper cases, ten inches long by three inches deep, and two and a half inches wide. When the last named are baked, and have been allowed to become thoroughly cold, cut them into rather thin slices, which, being placed on baking- sheets, should be again baked of a very light colour on both sides. 1298 0. ALBERT BISCUITS. INGREDIENTS :—Ten ounces of pounded sugar, eight ounces of tinely-chopped aimonds, six ounces of flour, twelve yolks and fourteen whites of eggs, two ounces of candied orange-peel shred fine, a tea- spoonful of cinnamon-powder, half that quantity of ground cloves, and a little grated lemon-rind. Work the sugar and the almonds with the yolks and two whites of eges, for twenty minutes, then incorporate the remaining twelve whites firmly whisked together with the flour, candied peel, and spices. Next, pour the batter into a convenient-sized paper case, and bake it in a moderate oven; and, when done and sufficiently cold, let it be cut up into thin slices for dishing up. This preparation may also be baked in small moulds, or forced out upon paper or baking-sheets previously buttered and floured for the purpose. 1298 p. VICTORIA BISCUITS. IngrEDIENTS :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of dried flour, six ounces of pounded or ground bitter almonds, six ounces of fresh butter, a wine-glassful of Kirschen-wasser, and the rind of two lemons grated. First, let the butter be worked up in a basin with a wooden spoon, until it assumes a creamy appearance; then add the remainder of the ingredients, finishing with the Kirschen-wasser ; and, when the batter 18 ready, pour it into small moulds, ready buttered and interiorly coated with potato flour. When these cakes or biscuits are baked of a very light colour, first, spread the surface with orange marmalade, and over this glaze them according to directions given for finishing Apricot biscuits. 419 SMALL PASTRY IN GENERAL, COMPRISING Fanchonnettes. Puff-paste Walnuts. Cheesecakes, © Bread-and-Butter Pastry. Hirlitons. Puff-paste Rings, or Wreaths, Pithiviers Cakes. Polish Cakes. D? Artois Cake. Harry the VITI.’s Shoestrings. German Tourte of Apricots. Puff-paste Plaits. Parisian Turnover of Apples. - Apple Tartlets. Darioles. Cherry Tartlets. Condé Cakes. Puff-paste Tartlets. Royals. Mosaic Tartlets. D? Artois of Apricot. Parisian Loaves. Apricot Nougats. Marygolds. Pastry Custard, or Cream. Filbert-cream Tartlets. Talmouses. Coventry Tartlets. Talmouses, with Cheese. Apple Tart, with Quince. Florentines. Pear Tart. Cupid’s, or Love’s Wells. Fruit Tarts in general. 1299. FANCHONNETTES. PREPARE some pastry custard in the manner directed for the projit- rolles (No. 1294), season it either with two ounces of grated chocolate, an infusion of coffee, a glass of liqueur, or a few drops of some kind of essence, such as orange-flower, vanilla, bitter almonds, or lemon; when this is ready, fill two dozen plain-lined tartlets with it; bake these of a light colour, and when done, take them out of the moulds, and lay them flat upon the marble slab to cool. Meanwhile, whip three whites of eges quite firm, then mix in three ounces of pounded sugar, and use some of this to mask the fanchonnettes over with, giving to them a flat smooth surface ; next, with a cornet filled with some of the whites of ege, form a star, or some other design on the top; when they are all done, shake some sifted sugar over them, put them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of a very light-fawn colour. When they are baked, previously to dishing them up, ornament them, by placing some neat strips of bright currant or apple-jelly in between the folds of the decoration. These fanchonnettes may be infinitely varied, by altering their form and design, when masking them with the whipped whites of eggs, according to taste and fancy. Strips of pistachios, almonds, or cur- rants may also be used for this purpose. 1300. CHEESECAKES, INGREDIENTS required :—Hight ounces of pressed curd, two ounces of ratafias, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs, some grated nutmeg, a little salt, the rind of two oranges or lemons, rubbed on sugar, and afterwards scraped off. Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous moisture, then pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in the above-named ingre- dients ; when the whole is incorporated together into a kind of soft paste, take this up ina basin. Next, line’two dozen or more. tartlet- 2482 \ 420 - SMALL PASTRY. pans with some well-worked trimmings of puff-paste, garnish these with the cheese-custard, place a strip of candied peel on the top of each, put them on a baking-sheet, and then set them in the oven (at mode- rate heat), to be baked of a very light-brown colour; when done, shake a little sifted sugar over them, and serve them quite hot. Currants, dried cherries, sultanas or citron, may be used instead of the candied peel. | | 1301. MIRLITONS. INGREDIENTS required :—Puff-paste trimmings, three whole eggs, three ounces of sugar, one ounce of ratifias, half an ounce of candiea orange-flowers, one ounce of butter, and a little salt. Put the above into a basin having a spout; the ratafias and orange- flowers must be bruised, and the butter merely melted; work the whole well together with a wooden spoon, until the batter presents’ the appearance of a rich creamy-looking substance, it must then be instantly poured into two dozen small deep tartlets, lined with puff- paste trimmings; shake a rather thick coating of sifted sugar over the mirlitons, and when it has nearly meited on their surface, put them in the oven (at very moderate heat), and bake them of a light- fawn colour. When the mirlitons are done, the centre should rise out from the tartlet to the height of about half an inch, resembling the crown of a boy’s cap. These cakes may also be flavoured with chocolate, grated previously to its being added to the preparation ; or with pistachios or almonds, both of these must be pounded first: they may also be flavoured with different essences. » Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets a spoonful of apricot or pine-apple-jam may be placed in them. 1302. PITHIVIERS CAKES. INGREDIENTS required :—Half a pound of puff-paste, eight ounces of almonds or nuts, six ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, two ounces of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower-water, the yolks of four eggs, and a very little salt. First, pound the almonds with a little white of egg, until they be- come pulverised; then add the remainder of the imgredients, and pound the whole well together until thoroughly incorporated, when it should present the appearance of a rather soft creamy paste; take this up in a basin. While the above preparation is going on, half a pound of puff-paste should be made, to which seven turns or foldings must be given; take two-thirds of this, and knead, or rather fold it, by twisting over the corners, so as to form it into a cushion; knead the other piece in a similar manner, and then roll them both out in a circular or ova. ~ form, to the size of a small dish or dessert plate; place the thinnest piece on a baking-sheet, wet round the edges with a paste-brush dipped in water, fill the whole of the centre with a layer of Pithiviers cream, about an inch thick, and place the other piece of puff-paste over the top of this; press it all round the edge, by bearing on it with the thumb of the right hand; then trim the edges round neatly Gn the manner practised to cut a vol-au-vent), and with the point of a small knife, handled lightly and freely, sketch or mark out some neat or elegant design, such as a lyre, a vase of flowers, a helmet with flow- PARISIAN TURNOVERS OF APPLES, 421 ing mane or feathers, a wreath, or a star, &c. Shake some finely- sifted sugar over the cake, and bake it of the lightest possible colour: indeed, it should be free from any colour, the characteristic appear- ‘ance of this kind of pastry being its whiteness. Pithiviers cake should ‘be eaten cold. These cakes may“also be made in tartlet moulds, thinly lined with puff-paste, and after being neatly filled with the Pithiviers cream (the edges being previously wetted round), the mould must be covered ‘in with circular pieces of puff-paste, stamped out with a cutter to fit them; then fastened down by pressing the two pieces of paste to- gether with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and finished and baked as directed in the foregoing case. 1303. D’ARTOIS CAKE. PurrF-Pasts or large D’Artois cakes, prepared as directed in the foregoing cases, may be garnished either with apple marmalade, mince- meat, or any kind of preserve; in this case, however, when the cake has been covered in with the puff-paste, previously to marking out the design on its surface, it must be egged over with a paste-brush; when it has been baked of a bright-yellow colour, shake some finely-sifted sugar over it, after which put it back again in the oven for a minute or two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over it to give it a bright glossy appearance. ‘The same direction applies to the smaller D’ Artois cakes. 1304. GERMAN TOURTE OF APRICOTS. Cur a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and put them into a small sugar-boiler or stewpan, with the kernels extracted from the stones, four ounces of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of water; stir this over the stove-fire until the fruit is dissolved into a jam, and then withdraw the stewpan from the fire. : Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste, or else about half a pound of short paste, to the diameter of about eight inches, place this on a circular baking-sheet, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist the paste round the edges so as to raise it in imitation of cording; then cut up a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and place these in close circular rows on the paste, shake some sifted sugar (mixed with some rind of lemon) over the apricots, and then bake ‘the tourte (at moderate heat); when it is done, pour the marmalade of apricots over the others, shake some sifted sugar mixed with a tea- spoonful of cinnamon-powder over the surface, dish the tourte on a napkin, and serve it either hot or cold. This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of fruit, the process in each case being similar to the above—consisting in baking one-half of the fruit on the paste, while the remainder is added after the tourte is baked, being first boiled down into a kind of jam for that purpose. In all cases, some cinnamon-sugar must be strewn over the surface. 1305. PARISIAN TURNOVER OF APPLES. Pert about a dozen apples, cut them in quarters, and take out the cores; after which, put them into a stewpan with eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of water; toss the apples over a slow 422 : SMALL PASTRY, fire until they are about half done, and then remove them from the fire. While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of short paste, in a circular form, the eighth part of an inch thick, and about the size of a dinner-plate; wet this round the edge, then fasten a rolled cord of paste, the thickness of a small finger, within an inch of the edge, and pile the prepared apples up in the.centre in the form of a dome: then, spread some apricot marmalade over the surface, and cover the whole in with another circular piece of pufi-paste; press them together round the edges, wet the extremities, then, with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist or fold the edges over in the form of a cord; let the turnover now be egged all over with a soft paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg, then strew some rough granite-sugar over the entire surface, and bake it of a lght colour. These turnovers may also be made with all kinds of plums; the only difference in their mode of preparation being, that they need not undergo any dressing previously to placing them in the paste, except that the stones should be removed: the plums, peaches, or apricots must be piled up in several rows forming a dome, with some pounded sugar between each layer, and some of the same kind of fruit the turnover is made of should be first boiled down to a jam, for the pur- pose of masking the fruit with, preparatory to its being covered in. 1306. DARIOLES.: Inerepients :—One ounce of flour, two ounces of pounded sugar, one ounce of ratafias, three gills of cream, one whole egg and six yolks, one ounce of candied orange-flowers, a small pat of butter, a very little salt, half a pound of trimmings of puff-paste. Place the flour, sugar, the bruised ratafias, and the eggs in a spouted basin, work the whole well together, and then add the cream, a very little salt, and a table-spoonful of orange-flower-water, and mix these in with the batter. Line a dozen dariole-moulds with some trim- mings of puff-paste, place these on a baking-sheet, put a very small bit of butter at the bottom of each dariole, and then, after stirring the batter well together, pour it into the moulds; strew the candied orange-flowers on the top of each, and set them in the oven (at mode- rate heat) to bake. When done, the darioles should be slightly raised in the centre, and of a light colour; take them out of the moulds without breaking them, soake some finely-sifted sugar over them, and serve them hot. Darioles may also be flavoured with vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or chocolate. : 1307. CONDE CAKES. Cop six ounces of Jordan almonds as fine as possible, mix them with four ounces of sifted sugar, some grated rind of lemon, and the white of an egg: the whole should present the appearance of a rather firm paste. Next, make half a pound of puff-paste, to which give eight turns or foldings, and roll this out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch; then, with a tin cutter, of an oval, circular, crescent, dia- mond, or any other fancy shape, stamp out about eighteen condés and place them on a baking-sheet previously wetted over with a paste- brush to receive them; spread a coating of the prepared chopped oe + -¢ aan ? oe < almonds on the surface of each, shake some fine sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light-fawn colour. PASTRY CUSTARD, 423 1308. ROYALS. Mrx the whites of two eggs with as much finely-sifted sugar as they will absorb, so as to form a kind of soft paste; this must be effected without working it more than is necessary to mix the ingre- dients together: a few drops of any kind of essence may be added to flavour the cakes. Make half a pound of pufi-paste, and to finish these cakes, proceed in all respects as directed in the foregoing article. 1309. D’ ARTOIS OF APRICOT. Maxz one pound of puff-paste, and give it seven turns or foldings ; then, take one-third part of it, and after kneading this well together, roll it out to the size of a square baking-sheet—measuring about four- teen inches by twelve, and lay the paste upon it; next, spread a rather thick layer of apricot-jam over the paste to within about an inch of the edges; then, roll out the remainder of the puff-paste to the size of the baking-sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the apricot ; fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the thumb, and trim the edges by cutting away the superfluous paste from the sides with a knife. The D’ Artois must now be marked out in small oblong shapes with the back part of a knife, and after the whole surface has been egged over, score them over neatly, forming a kind of feather pattern on each cake. Bake them of a bright light-brown colour, and when they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them out of the dredger, put them back again into the oven for a minute or two, to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give to the pastry a bright glossy appearance. When the D’ Artois have become sufficiently cold, cut them up, and serve them dished up in several circular rows piled on a napkin. Note.—This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pithiviers- cream, pastry-custard, apple-marmalade, or any other kind of preserve. 1310. APRICOT NOUGATS. Routt out some trimmings of pufi-paste to the thickness of the eighth of an inch; lay this all over the surface of a baking-sheet, spread it with a rather thick layer of apricot-jam, and then strew some shred pistachio kernels or Jordan almonds over this, shake some finely- sifted sugar over all, and bake them in a very moderately-heated oven. When done, allow the pastry to cool, and then use any kind of fancy tin-cutter to stamp them out. 1311. PASTRY CUSTARD, OR CREAM. IneREDIENTS :—Four ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, two ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, one ounce of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower-water, and a very little salt. | Mix the flour, sugar, and salt, with two whole eggs, in a stewpan with a wooden spoon ; then add the cream and the butter, and stir the whole over the stove-fire until it boils ; it must then be well worked together, A424 SMALL PASTRY. so as to make it smooth. Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the lid on the stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or on a slow stove- fire partially smothered with ashes, that it may continue to simmer very gently for about twenty minutes ; the cream must then be put out into a basin, and the bruised ratafias, the yolks of eggs, and the orange-flower-water must be added; after which put four ounces of butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it begins to fritter, and has acquired a light-brown colour (which gives to it the sweet flavour of nuts), add this also to the cream, and let the whole be well mixed. Use this cream to garnish various kinds of pastry, according to directions given in the several articles for which it is intended. 1312. TALMOUSES. INGREDIENTS required :—Half a pint of milk, four ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six ounces of cream-curd, the rind of an orange rubbed on sugar, a very little salt, and half a pound of puff-paste. Put the milk, butter, sugar, and salt into a stewpan on a stove-fire, and as soon as these begin to simmer, fill in the flour by stirring the whole with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes over the fire; then add the curd (from which all the superfluous moisture must be extracted by pressing it in a napkin), and work in the eggs one after the cther, remembering that this paste must be kept to about the same substance as for petits-choux. Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it nine turns: roll this out to the eighth of an inch in thickness, stamp out about two dozen circular pieces with a tin-cutter about two inches in diameter, and place them in neat order on a baking-sheet about an inch apart from each other: then place a good tea-spoonful of the preparation de- scribed above, in the centre of each, wet these round the edges, and then turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the shape of a three-cornered hat: egg them over with a paste-brush, bake them of a light-brown colour, and when they are withdrawn from the oven, shake some fine sugar over them. ‘These cakes may be served either hot or cold. 1313. TALMOUSES WITH CHEESE. THESE are prepared just as the foregoing, except that the sugar and rind of orange must be omitted, substituting in their stead four ounces of scraped Brie, or Neuchatel, cheese: when these cannot be procured, Gruyeére or Parmesan cheese may be used for the purpose. 1314. FLORENTINES. Rout out about half a pound of trimmings of puff-paste to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, and lay this on the entire surface of a rather large-sized baking-sheet ; spread a thick layer of green- -gage-jam over the paste, and then bake it in an oven of moderate heat ; when done, let it be withdrawn and allowed partially to cool. Then spread it with a coating of whipped whites of egg mixed with sugar, about half an inch in thickness, and strew some shred pistachio kernels ail over the surface; shake some finely-sifted sugar over the : 2 7 BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY. 425 top, and finish baking the /lorentines of a very light colour, taking care that the meringue-paste is allowed sufficient time to become per- fectly crisp. A few minutes after the Mlorentines are taken out of tee oven, they must be stamped out with a tin-cutter, or else cut out with a knife, in oblong or diamond-shapes. : 1315. cuPrIn’s, OR LOVE’S WELLS. Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, then roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch; stamp out about eighteen circular pieces from this with a fluted tin-cutter, one inch anda half in diameter, and place these in rows on a baking-sheet previously wetted to receive them. Then, stamp out as many more pieces with a smaller fluted cutter only one inch in diameter, and after stamping out the centre of these, wet the surface of the others over with a paste-brush, and lay one of the smaller ones on each of the others;: press them down with the fingers, egg over the tops, and bake them of a bright hight colour; when they are nearly done, shake some sugar over them with the dredger, put them back again into the oven for a minute or two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give them a bright glossy appearance. Previously to serving these “love’s wells,”’ fill them either with preserved cherries, greengage-jam, or currant- jelly. 1316. PUFF-PASTE WALNUTS. Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch; then, stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, and after wetting each of these with a paste-brush dipped in water, fold them up, at the same time pressing the two parts of the paste slightly, so as to cause them to adhere closely together; they must then be placed on a baking-sheet in rows, egeed over, and baked of a bright light colour. Just before they are done, some fine sugar should be shaken over them with a dredger, and they must then be put back again into the oven for a little while to melt the sugar; pass the red-hot salamander over, and withdraw them. Previously to serving this kind of pastry, a broad strip of red-currant or apple-jelly should be placed across the centre. 1317. BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY. Give six turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; cut this into bands about three inches wide, then cut these again into strips rather better than a quarter of an inch wide, and place them (on the cut side) ona baking- sheet in rows, about two inches apart, so as to allow them sufficient room to spread out. Bake these strips of paste in a rather sharp oven and just before they are done, glaze them: that is, shake some fine sugar over, and then salamanderthem. About two dozen of these are required for a dish: they must be spread with some kind of pre- serve, and stuck together in pairs, to imitate bread-and-butter ; dish them up on a napkin, piled up in several circular rows, in a pyramidal form. This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some stiffly-whipped cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur, in the centre. 426 SMALL PASTRY. 1318. PUFF-PASTE RINGS, OR WREATHS. Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll this out to: the sixth part of an inch in thickness ; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted tin cutter about one inch and three quarters in diameter, and stamp out the centre of these wita a plain circular cutter about three quarters of an inch in diameter, then place the rmgs on a wetted baking-sheet ; shake some fine sugar ever them, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat). When they are done, decorate them with some whipped white of egg and sugar, over which strew some coarse sugar; put them to dry m the screen, and then finish decorating them by placing or inserting some strips of currant or apple-jelly in between the folds or dots of the decoration. Note.—Puff-paste turned or folded eight times, then rolled out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and stamped out with ap- propriate fancy-shaped tin cutters—either in the form of crescents, leaves, trefoil or shamrock, stars, &c., and after bemg baked as directed in the foregoing case,. may also be decorated in the same manner: a cornet of paper should be used for this purpose. 1319. POLISH CAKES. Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out as in the foregoing cases, and then cut it up into square pieces measuring rather better than two inches each way ; wet these in the centre, and then fold down the corners, so as to make them all meet in the middle of the piece of paste ; place a dot of paste in the centre of each, pressing it down with the end of the finger, egg them over, and bake them in a rather sharp oven, of a fine bright light colour, and just before they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them; put them back again in the oven to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot sala- mander over them to give them a glossy appearance. Decorate this kind of pastry with bright red-currant or apple-jelly. 1320. HARRY THE VIIL’S SHOESTRINGS. Tuis kind of pastry is prepared in the first instance in exactly the same manner as the foregoing, as far as folding the corners down. Then cut out a small angle from each of the parts that have been folded down, which will then present the appearance of four bows joined together ; place a small ring of puff-paste in the centre of each, which must be fastened on by first wetting the part; they should be then egged over and baked of a bright light colour, and afterwards glazed as directed in the foregoing cases. Previously to dishing them up, fill a cornet of paper with some firm red-currant-jelly, and use this to draw rather bold lines all round the angular parts of the bows, and also round the ring that has been placed in the centre; then, with another paper cornet filled with bright apricot or green gage-jam, fill in the centre of the bows: this kind of decoration produces a very brillant effect. 1321. PUFF-PASTE PLAITS. GIVE nine turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch, and then cut this into bands about five inches in width, and divide these into narrow strips a _ 5° a APPLE AND CHERRY TARTLETS. 427 quarter of an inch wide. ‘Take four of these strips, and after fasten- mg them together at one end with a little ege or water, plait them neatly but rather loosely together, and when finished, fasten the ends : as each plait is completed, place it on a baking-sheet, and when they are all ready, egg them over, and bake them of a light colour, and when done, let them be glazed as usual. Just before sending these cakes to table, decorate them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright currant or apple-jelly, and some greengage-jam. 1322. APPLE TARTLETS, Make half a pound of tart-paste (No. 1255), roll it out rather thin ; then stamp out twenty circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the size of the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each tartlet with a spoonful of apple-marmalade, cover them in with a mosaic * of paste, egg them over, place them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of a light colour; when done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the red-hot salamander, to give them a glossy appear- ance. 1323, APPLE TARTLETS, ANOTHER METHOD. Liz the tartlet-pans as above, then garnish them with halves of small apples, previously turned and divested of the cores, and after- wards parboiled in a little syrup in which the juice of a lemon has been squeezed; bake the tartlets, and when they are done, dilute some apricot-jam with a little of the syrup; use this to mask the suber ae the tartlets, and then place a preserved cherry on the centre of each. 1324. CHERRY TARTLETS. Take the stones out of two pounds of Kentish cherries, put these into a small sugar-boiler with three quarters of a pound of pounded sugar, toss them in this, then set them on the stove-fire and allow them to boil for about five minutes : the cherries must then be strained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to about one-third part of its quan- tity, then added to the cherries, and kept in a small basin. | ine two dozen small tartlet-pans with skort paste or tart-paste (the flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter); knead as many small pieces of paste as there are tartlets, and after dipping them in flour, press one of them into each of the tartlets, place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a light colour; when they are nearly done, withdraw them, and take out the pieces of paste, shake some fine sugar over them, and then glaze them with the red-hot salamander. Just before serving the tartlets, fill them with the cherries. Note.—Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and all kinds of plums, may be prepared for tartlets, by gently boiling them for a few minutes in about a pint of syrup; the fruit should then be drained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to one-third of its original quantity, and kept * Mosaic-boards, for tartlets, may be had of all sizes and patterns at any turner’s shop. To cut out impressions from these, it is necessary to use small circular flats of raised pie- paste, which must be placed on the board, and pressed into the design, by rolling it with a paste-pin ; the superfluous paste must then be cut or shaved away, and the mosaic of paste that remains in the design shaken out of the board, 4 428 SMALL PASTRY . 7 with the fruit in a small basin, to fill the tartlets with as in the fore- going cases. 1825. PUFF-PASTE TARTLETS. Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste (No. 1261), roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and then with a circular tin-cutter, about one inch and three quarters in diameter, stamp out twenty flats; again use a small cutter, measuring one inch in diameter, to stamp out the centre of these: next, gather up the trimmings, knead them together, and roll them out to the eighth part of an mch in thickness, and stamp out as many flats as there are rings ; place them on a wetted baking-sheet, moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in water, stick the rings of paste on these, shake some sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of avery light colour (at very moderate heat). When the tartlets are done, mask the bands or rings with a little meringue-paste, dip them either in some chopped _ or very finely-shred pistachios or almonds, and place them in the screen to dry. Previously to serving these tartlets, they may be filled, either with cherries, currants, plums, &c., prepared as directed above, or else with any kind of preserve. 1326. MOSAIC TARTLETS. PREPARE two dozen pufi-paste tartlets as directed above, and fill eacn of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage-jam ; wet round the edges, and place a mosaic of paste on the top of each, egg these over slightly, and bake them of a light colour; when they are done, shake some fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot salamander. 1327. PARISIAN LOAVES. PREPARE some small slender finger-biscuits, spread them with apricot or greengage-jam, and stick two of these together; then, hold one at a time on a fork, mask them over slightly with some meringue-paste, and with a paper cornet filled with some of the same, draw parallel lines across the cakes in a slanting direction; when they are all completed, shake some sugar over them, and put them in the oven to be baked, or rather dried, of a very light-fawn colour. When done, insert some narrow strips of bright currant-jelly, green- gage-jam, and apple-jelly between the bars of the decoration. 1328. MARYGOLDS. Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, stamp out twenty flats with a circular fluted tin-cutter, about one inch and three quarters in diameter, and place these on a wetted baking-sheet; roll out the trimmings rather thin, and with two smaller cutters, stamp out as many rings of tne size of a shilling as there are cakes, and place one of these on the centre of each of the marygolds, previously wetted all over the surface. Then, place some almonds split into four strips lengthwise, closely round the rings, in a somewhat slanting direction ; these must be slightly pressed into the paste to make them hold on, and should be arranged so as to give to the cake, as-much as possible, the appearance of the flower they are intended to resemble. When they are all completed, shake some sugar over them with the dredger, APPLE TART WITH QUINCE, 45a. and bake them of alight colour. When done, insert some very narrow sirips of bright firm red-currant or apple-jelly between each piece of almond, and place a piece of apricot or greengage-jam, in the ring. 1328 a. FILBERT CREAM TARTLETS. Liz two dozen tartlet-moulds with some short-paste, and then - fill them with the following preparation :—First, extract the kernels from a sufficient quantity of fresh filberts to produce half a pound of sound kernels; let these be first pounded in a mortar, adding a dessert-spoonful of water, in order to prevent them from turning oily; and when they are thoroughly bruised, add two ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of sugar, a liqueur-glassful of white noyau, and the yokes of four eggs; and, having beaten the whole well together, use the preparation as directed above. Bake the filled tartlets in a moderate oven, and when done, remove them from the moulds on toaciean baking-sheet, and let them be glazed on the . surface of the cream with the following mixture :—To a small glass- ful of white noyeau, add about two ounces of glazing-sugar, work these well together until they form a rather thick icing, which use — as directed above; and after this last part of the process is com- pleted, place the tartlets in the screen to dry the icing. 1328 6. COVENTRY TARTLETS. Linz two dozen deep-fluted tartlet-moulds with some short-paste, and fill these with the following preparation :—Procure about twelve ounces of hard fresh curd, which place in a mortar with four ounces of pounded sugar, the yolks of four eggs, two ounces of fresh butter, as much grated nutmeg as would hold on a sixpence, a small pinch of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of orange-flower-water; bruise all these smoothly together until the whole forms a compact creamy substance, and then use it as directed above. Bake the tartlets of a light colour, and when done, turn them out.upside-down upon a sheet of paper, and allow them to cool. Next, proceed to mask over the upper part of each tartlet with some apricot-marmalade, and place thereon a tasteful decoration formed with angelica, dried ‘cherries, &c., &c., These cakes may be varied in appearance by using currant or apple-jelly instead of apricot, &c., and ornamenting them with small cut fancy shapes or designs, madé of worked ‘puff-paste, or almond- paste. 1329. APPLE TART WITH QUINCE. Pert the apples, remove the cores, cut them im slices or quarters, and arrange them neatly in the pie-dish; then add the quince, which must be previously sliced up very thin, and stewed in a small stew- pan over a slow fire with a little water, sugar, and a small piece of putter; add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the quantity of apples the tart may contain, and strew some zest of lemon (i. ¢., the rind rubbed on sugar and then scraped off) over the top. Cover the tart with puff-paste, first placing a band of the same round the edge of the dish; scollop it round the edges by pressing them with the back of a knife, egg the tart over, then ornament the top by _ drawing out some fanciful design with the point of a knife, and bake it of a light colour; when done, shake some sugar upon it, and use the red-hot salamander to glaze it. 430 . FRITTERS. 1330. PEAR TART. Ir mellow pears be used for this purpose, the foregoing directions may be followed; but if stewing pears are made use of, these must be first stewed with some sugar, a little water, and some lemon-peei and cloves tied together. When the pears are nearly done, allow them to cool previously to making the tart, which, in this case, should — be covered with tart paste (No._1255); when so far finished, sprinkle it over with a paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg, and some sifted sugar strewn upon it, itvshould then be baked of a light colour. 1331. FRUIT TARTS IN GENERAL. « WHEN peaches, apricots, or any of the larger kinds of plums are used for making tarts, the stones should be removed, and the kernels taken out and blanched; the fruit should be then neatly arranged in the tart-dish in the form of a dome, with the kernels amongst it, and some sifted sugar strewn over all. These tarts should invariably be covered with tart-paste, and finished as directed inthe foregoing case. For making cherry, damson, raspberry, and currant tarts, follow the same directions; except that the stones need not be removed from the two first of these. FRITTERS, COMPRISING Apple Fritters, Custard Fritters. Pine Apple Fritters. Princess Fritters. Orange Fritters. Portuguese Fritters. Peach Fritters. German Fritters. Spanish Pufis. Diavolini. 1332. APPLE FRITTERS. Cur the apples in rather thick slices, scoop out the cores with a tin-cutter, then pare off the rind, and place the pieces of apples in a basin with a small glass of brandy, a table-spoonful of sugar, and some grated peel of lemon or orange, letting them steep in this for several hours, if possible, "When about to send the fritters to table, throw the pieces of apple into a basin containing some light-made batter (No. 232), then take them out one at a time, and drop them into some heated hog’s-lard, to be fried of a light colour; when they are done, drain them ona sheet of paper, break off all the rough parts, placo the fritters on a baking-sheet, shake some fine sugar upon them, glaze them with the red-hot salamander, and serve. , Note.—Pear fritters are made in the same manner as the above. * The finest bottled fruits and all other preserves, are procurable at Crosse and BLACKWELL'S, Soho Square CUSTARD FRITTERS. 431 1333. PINE-APPLE FRITTERS. Prt the pine-apple without waste ; if it is small, cutit into slices m the same manner as apples ; but if the fruit happens to be large, it should be cut up in pieces about the size of a finger; these must be then steeped with a glass of maraschino and a spoonful of pounded sugar, in a basin for several hours, previously to their being fried in patter ; this should be mixed with cream. In other respects, finish these as directed for apple fritters. 1334. ORANGE FRITTERS, CHoosE some thin-skinned oranges, peel them, divide them into quarters, remove the pips, and then put them to steep in a basin with a glass of brandy, a spoonful of sugar, and some grated rind of orange. Previously to frying the fritters, drain the pieces of oranges from the brandy, &c., throw them into some light-made batter (No. 232), then take them out one by one, drop them gently in some heated hog’s- lard, and fry them of a light colour; finish these in the usual manner. 1335. PEACH FRITTERS. Cur the peaches into quarters, remove the skins, and put them to steep in a basin with a glass of noyeau and a spoonful of sugar; then fry them in batter, as directed in the foregoing cases. Note.—Fritters of apricots and large plums are prepared as the above ; brandy being used instead of liqueur, to steep the fruit in. 1336. SPANISH PUFFS. PREPARE some petits-chouxr paste (No. 1291). Next, cut a sheet of foolscap-paper into four pieces, spread these with butter, and then take up as much of the paste as will stand in a small tea-spoon ; press it out in rows on the paper, in the form of round balls: this should be done just before frying them. When about to send to table, take hold of the sheets of paper containing the puffs, at one corner, and as they are immersed in the hot hog’s-lard, shake them gently off the paper; fry them of a light colour, and when done, drain them on a wire-sieve covered with paper to absorb ary grease: some fine sugar must then be shaken over them, previously to their being dished up on a napkin, in a conical form. 1337. CUSTARD FRITTERS. Inerepients :—One pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, one ounce of | hepa six ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon and grated lemon- eel. t Mix the above ingredients together in a basin, after having first boiled the cinnamon and lemon in the cream ; strain the whole through a sieve, and then pour the custard into a plain mould, previously spread with butter: steam the custard in the usual manner, and when done, allow it to become cold, preparatory to its being cut up into slices about half an inch thick, and then divided into squares of about two inches each: place these on a dish, and sprinkle them with a little cinnamon-powder, and a spoonful of brandy. When about to send to table, dip each piece of custard separately in some light-made batter (No. 232), then drop them into some hot hog’s-lard, and fry 432 FRITTERS. them of a light colour; when done, drain them on a, sheet of paper, break off any rough parts, sugar them, glaze them over with the red- hot salamander, and dish them up on a napkin. Note-—This kind of fritter may be varied by changing the flavour- ing, and also by adding a proportionate quantity of either grated chocolate, pulverized almonds, essence of coffee, or lightly-burnt sugar. | 1337 a. PRINCESS FRITTERS. Tus kina of fritter is prepared from the remains of Brioche, Baba, Savarin, Compiégne cake, or Kouglaiig’ ; which ever of the foregoing happens to be used for the specified purpose, should be first cut up into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and then again cut out into small circular shapes with a tin-cutter, about the diameter of a five- shilling piece ; place these in a sautapan previously strewn with orange sugar, and pour over them sufficient cream to cover them, shake some more orange sugar over the entire surface, and when about to fry the fritters, dip each separately in very light and delicately-made frying- batter. When these fritters are fried crisp, let them be brightly glazed with sifted sugar and the red-hot salamander ; and, after being dished up, pour some apricot-jam, diluted with a little orange flower- water, round the base, and serve. 1337 b. PORTUGUESE FRITTERS. Inereprunts :—Eight ounces of Carolina rice, four ounces of sugar, two ounces of fresh butter, a quart of milk, a small stick of cmnamon, and a pound-pot of orange-marmalade, and six eggs. Thoroughly pick and wash the rice, and then place it in a convenient-sized stew- pan, together with the sugar, butter, milk and cinnamon; allow the whole to simmer very gently by the side of a slow fire, until the whole of the milk is absorbed by the rice, when, if the simmering has been gradual and slow, the grains of rice will be satisfactorily done. Next, add the orange-marmalade, and the yolks of the six eggs; stir the whole over a quick stove-fire until the eggs are set firm in the prepa- ration; it must now be turned out upon a clean dish or baking-sheet, and spread equally to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and when this has become cold, must be cut out in oblong shapes, which, after being first dipped in light frying-batter, are to be fried crisp, glazed with cinnamon-sugar, and dished up on a napkin. 1337 c. DIAVOLINI. INGREDIENTS :—Eight ounces of ground rice, four ounces of sugar, a quart of milk, two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of essence of ginger, six eggs, one pound of preserved ginger. Mix the rice, sugar, milk and butter together in a stewpan, and stir the produce over a stove-fire until it thickens; it must then be re- moved from the fire, and after being worked quite smooth, and’ the lid being put on the stewpan, set it either in the oven or over a slow ash- fire to finish doing ; this will be effected in about half an hour. The rice must now be removed from the fire, and the preserved ginger pre- viously cut into very small dice-like shapes, the essence of ginger and the six yolks of eggs, being added thereto, stir the whole over a quick ICED PUDDINGS. 433 ‘fire until the eggs are set firm in the rice, and then finish the fritters as directed in the preceding article ; using plain sugar to glaze them. 1337d. GERMAN FRITTERS, DrvipE one pound of Brioche-paste into twenty-four equal parts ; next, mould these into small finger-shapes, and bake them of a very light colour. These fingers must now be placed in a deep sautapan, and a pint of cream, previously boiled with a stick of vanilla in it, is to be poured over them, and they are to be allowed to soak therein until quite cold; after which they must be bread-crumbed by being first dipped in beaten egg, and then rolled in the bread-crumbs. About twenty minutes before the fritters are required to be served, fry them of a bright light colour, in heated hog’s-lard, shake some vanilla sugar over them, and when neatly piled on a napkin, send to table quite hot. ICED PUDDINGS AND ORNAMENTED ENTREMETS, COMPRISING Iced Cake, d ta Stanley. Apples and Rice, plain. Iced Rice Pudding, @ Ja Cintra, 3, & la Portuguaise. Iced Pudding, a la Cerito. », in the form of a Porcupine. a a la Prince of Wales. » Gla Portuguaise, another way - d la Chesterfield. Flan of Peaches. pe a la Kinnaird. - Napolitain Cake, d /a Chantilly. 35 a la Prince Albert. Croquante of Oranges. as a la Parisiénne. Be of Fresh Walnuts. : a a la Duchess of Kent. rp of Ratafias, @ la Chantilly. Biscuit glacés, in small cases. Meringue, a la Parisiénne. Nesselrode Pudding. Grosse-Meringue, with Pistachios. Iced Pudding, @ Ja Princess Alice. Swan of Savoy Biscuit, d /a Chantilly. Miilefeuilles Cake, ad la Chantilly. Savoy Cake, in the form of a Glazed Ham Apples and Rice, ornamented. 1338. ICED CAKE, A LA STANLEY. First, make a Parisian cake (in a fluted mould), as directed in No. 1273. Next, prepare a compdéte of sreengages in syrup; these must be kept whole, and of as green a colour as possible. Then, prepare a custard in the following manner : —Mix ten yolks of eggs with a pint and a half of boiling cream, eight ounces of sugar, and sufficient cinnamon and lemon-peel to flavour it; add a very little salt, and stir the whole in a stewpan over the fire until it begins to thicken ; the custard should then be immediately passed through a tammy or sieve, into a basin, and allowed to become a eold. This custard must now be placed in a freezing-pot used fer making ices, and should be occasionally worked with a spatula as it decomes set by freezing; when frozen sufficiently firm, scrape the custard from the sides of the pot, and gather it all up at the bottom ; put the lid on with paper to exclude the hot air, pour off the water from the tub, and after the pot has beeri packed in with fresh ice and salt, place a damp cloth over the top, and keep it in a very cool place until wanted. When about to send the cake to table, scoop out nearly the whole of the crumb from the centre, and fill it with the iced custard ; place it on its dish, pile up the compéte of greengages on the top, as repre- sented in the wood-cut, pour some of the syrup round the base, and Berve. 434 ICED PUDDINGS. 1339. ICED RICE PUDDING, A LA CINTRA. Wasi and parboil eight ounces of Carolina rice; then, put it into a stewpan, with a quart of milk and a pint of cream, two sticks of vanilla, twelve ounces of sugar, and a little salt ; allow the rice to sim- mer very gently over or by a slow stove-fire, until the grains are al- most dissolved, stirrmg it over oc- casionally with a Siotit rncidh ‘When the rice is done, and while it is yet in a boiling state, add the yolks of six eges; then stir the whole well together for several minutes, in order to mix in the eggs, and also for the purpose of breaking up and smoothing the rice. Let this rice- custard be frozen in the same manner as directed in the foregoing case, and then put it into a plain mould; cover it with the lid, and immerse it in ice in the usual way. _ While the above part of the process is going on, a compdte of twelve oranges (‘I'angerene, if in season) should be prepared in the following manner :—First, cut each orange into halves, remove the pithy core and the pips with the point of a small knife ; then, with a sharp knife, pare off the rind and white pith, so as to lay the transparent pulp of the fruit quite bare, taking care to trim them neatly, and without waste ; when the whole of the fruit is ready, throw it into a conve- nient-sized sugar-boiler, or stewpan, containing about a pint of syrup (made with one pound of sugar, and nearly a pint of spring-water), allow the pieces of orange to boil up gently in this for two minutes, and then drain them on a sieve. Boil the syrup down to about one- half of its original quantity ; then, add two wine-glasses of curagao, and three table-spoonfuls of apricot-jam ; mix the whole together, and pour it over the oranges in a basin. When about to send the pudding to table, turn it out of the mould, and place it on its dish, dress the compdte of oranges on the top and round the base, as represented in the wood-cut, pour the syrup over it, and serve. r ICED PUDDINGS. 435 First, prepare about eighteen finger, and the same number of almond cornet-gaufires (No. 1284), andarrange the finger-gauffresround the inside of a plain circular char- lotte-mould. Prepare also an iced custard, as directed for the Stanley cake, except that this must be fla- voured with vanilla. An iced Macé- doine of fruits in a strawberry-water- ice must also be got ready. About an hour before sending the pudding to table, garnish the sides of the gauffres (previously placed in the mould as directed above), with a coating of the va- nilla-cream ice, about an inch thick, and cover the bottom of the ~ mould in the same manner ; then fill up the centre with the iced Macé- doine of fruits, place a round piece of paper on the top, and cover with the lid ; next, immerse the pudding in rough ice, mixed with salt, in a pail or tub; cover this over with a damp cloth, and set it in a cool place till wanted. The pudding must then be turned out of the mould on to its dish, with the decorated top placed upon it, and gar- nished round the base, and on the centre, with the small gauffres, made in the form of cornets or cornucopie, each being filled with a little of the vanilla-cream ice, and a strawberry placed on the top then serve immediately. To prepare the decorated top above alluded to, a circular piece of gauffre, the size of the mould, must be ornamented with sugar-icing, pressed out of a cornet of paper, so as to imitate a scroll, as shown in the above wood-cut ; the icing must be allowed to dry in the screen, and the decoration should then be completed by introducing some red-currant and bright apple-jelly in between the scrolls. 1340. PUDDING, A LA CERITO. 7 1341. ICED PUDDING, A LA PRINCE OF WALES . Frest, prepare eight yolks of eges of custard, as for the Stanley cake (No. 1338); previously to passing this through a tammy, add two pottles of picked scarlet straw- berries, tossed in a_ sugar-boiler with ten ounces of pounded sugar over a brisk fire, until they begin to simmer; when the whole has been passed into a purée, allow it to cool; then freeze it in the usual manner, and fill a cylindrical pud- ding-mould with it, stop it down with the lid, and immerse it in rough ice. While the foregoing part of the process is in preparation, an iced 2F2 436 ICED PUDDINGS Macédoine of fruits must be made as follows :—First, extract the juice from one pound of muscatel grapes, and add a sufficient quantity of syrup, to give body to it; this must then be put into the freezing-pot, and worked in the usual way. Just before using the ice, a propor- tionate quantity of light-coloured fruit must be added, and mixed in lightly with the ice, so as not to bruise them: these fruits should consist of small pieces of pine-apple, peach, apricot, white raspberries, strawberries, and bigaroon-cherries ; this Macédoine should be finished just before dishing up. The pudding must be turned out of the mould on to its dish, the centre filled with the Macédoine, as represented in the annexed wood-cut, and immediately served. 1342, ICED PUDDING, A LA CHESTERFIELD. GRATE one pound of pine-apple into a basin, add this to eight yolks of eggs, one pint and a half of boiled cream, one pound of sugar, and a very little salt ; stir the whole together in a stewpan over a stove- fire until the custard begins to thicken; then pass it through a tammy, by rubbing with twowooden spoons, in the same manner as for a purée, in order to force the pine- apple through the tammy. This custard must now be iced in the usual manner, and put into a mould of the shape represented in the an- nexed wood-cut ; and in the centre of the iced cream, some Macédoine ice of red fruits, consisting of cherries, currants, strawberries, and rasp- berries in a cherry-water ice, must be introduced ; cover the whole in with the lid, then immerse the pudding in rough ice in the usual way, and keep it in a cool place until wanted. | When about to send the pudding to table, turn it out of the mould on to its dish, ornament the top with a kind of drooping feather, formed with green angelica cut in strips, and arranged as represented in the wood-cut ; garnish the base with small gauffres, filled with some of the iced cream reserved for the purpose, place a strawberry on the top of each, and serve. 1343. ICED PUDDING, A LA KINNAIRD. Buancu eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two of bitter ditto; dry them in a cloth, put them into a sugar-boiler, and stir them over a slow fire, in order to roast them of a light colour; as soon as the almonds bave acquired sufficient colour, throw in six ounces of pounded sugar, and continue stirring the whole over the fire until the sugar has melted, and acquired a light-brown colour; thev shcu!d now be withdrawn from the fire, and stirred about with the spoon until they have become nearly cold; they must then be thoroughly pounded in a mortar, and added to eight yolks of eggs, eight ounces of sugar, and one pint and a half of boiled cream; stir the whole with a wooden —— ll ICED PUDDINGS. 437 spoon in a stewpan over the stove-fire, until the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set in the custard, and . then pass it through a tammy in the same way as a purée. This custard must be iced in a freezing- pot in the usual manner, and after- wards put into a mould resembling that represented in the wood-cut, and after being covered in with its lid, immersed in rough ice, there to remain until it is sent to table. The pudding must then be turned out of the mould on to its dish, the top garnished with a drooping fea- ther, formed of strips of green an- gelica, and served. Note.—The centre of this pudding may be garnished with apricot — -. or orange-marmalade, previously to its bemg again immersed in the rough ice. | 1344. ICED PUDDING, A LA PRINCE ALBERT. PREPARE some rice custard ice, as directed for the pudding a la Cintra (No. 1339): about half that quantity will suffice. Slice up a dozen ripe apricots, and boil them with twelve ounces of sugar, and half a pint of water, until the fruit is dissolved; then pass it through a sieve—if it should be too thick, add a little thin syrup, and freeze this in the usual manner. The two ices being ready, a pudding-mould should be lined with a coating of the apricot-water ice, about half an inch thick, and the centre filled up entirely with the iced rice-custard ; cover the pudding with the lid of the mould, and immerse it in rough ice until dishing-up time. The pudding must then be placed on its dish, garnished with some wafer-gauffres filled with whipped cream seasoned with noyeau, and served immediately. 1345. ICED PUDDING, A LA PARISIENNE. PaRrzoit and remove the skin from eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two ounces of bitter ditto, wash and dry them on a cloth, and then thoroughly pound them with twelve ounces of sugar in a mortar, until they present the appearance of a soft paste; this must then be added to eight yolks of eggs, and a quart of boiled cream; stir the whole together in a stewpan over a stove-five, until the eggs are sufi ciently set in the custard, and then pass it through the tammy in the same manner as a purée. Pour this into a freezing-pot—ready packed in.rough ice, and freeze it in the usual manner; when this is effected, fill an ice pudding-mould with it, cover it in with the lid, and immerse it'in rough ice until dishing-up time. The pudding must then be placed on its dish, and the top and base garnished with a compote of apricots ; after mixing a glass of noyeau in with the syrup, pour it over the pudding, and serve. 1846, ICED PUDDING, A LA DUCHESS OF KENT. REMOVE the skins from one pound of filbert-kernels, and pound tLese with ten ounces of sugar (adding a few drops of water), until” 438 ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS. they become soft and pulpy; take up this paste into a basin, add a pint of single.cream, stir the whole well together, and pass it through a tammy into a purée ; then freeze this in the usual manner. While the above is being prepared, a pint of cherry-water-ice must be made as follows:—Remove the stalks from two pounds of Kentish cherries, and bruise them thoroughly in a mortar, so as to break the stones, then take them up into a sugar-boiler, add twelve ounces of sugar, and boil the whole together over a brisk stove-fire for five minutes ; rub this through a hair-sieve into a basin, and freeze it, adding a little thin syrup, ifnecessary. Use the cherry-water-ice to line the pudding-mould with, garnish the centre with the filbert-cream-ice, cover the mould with its lid, and immerse the pudding in rough ice until dishing-up time. The pudding must then be turned out on its dish, garnished round with wafer-gauffres filled with some of the filbert-cream reserved for the purpose, and served immediately. 1347, BISCUITS GLACES, IN SMALL CASES, To eight yolks of eggs, add one pint of cream, four ounces of rati- fias, ten ounces of sugar, and a very little salt; stir the whole in a stewpan over a stove-fire until the egg is sufficiently set; then pass the custard through a tammy into a basin, and when it has become cold, add two wine-glasses of maraschino, and freeze this in the usua. manner. Just before dishing up the biscuits, half a pint of whipped cream must be lightly added to the iced custard; the small paper cases must be filled with this, and afterwards sprinkled over with some finely-bruised high-coloured ratifias, then dish the biscuits upon a napkin, and serve. Note.—These iced biscuits may be also infinitely varied, by chang- ing the flavourings: for which purpose, all kinds of liqueurs, and essences of almonds, vanilla, orange, lemon, coffee, chocolate, or orange- flowers, may be used: they may also be made by adding a puree of apricots, strawberries, raspberries, or pine-apple, to the custard. 1348. NESSELRODE PUDDING. Born three dozen chestnuts in water, and when done, peel, pound, and rub them through a sieve ; put this pulp into a stewpan with eight yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, two sticks of vanilla, previously pounded, half a pint of pine-apple syrup, and a very little salt; stir these ingredients over a stove-fire until the eggs are sufficiently set in the custard, then rub the whole through a tammy, and put the cream into a basin. Cut four ounces of green citron, six ounces of pine-apple (previously simmered in the syrup above alluded to), and place these in a basin with six ounces of dried cherries, and four ounces of Smyrna raisins; to these add two wine-glasses of maras- chino, and allow the fruit to steep for several hours. Place the chest- nut cream in a freezing-pot immersed in rough ice, and freeze it in the usual manner; then add half a pint of whipped cream and the fruit. Mix the pudding, and continue working the freezing-pot for a few minutes longer ; when the pudding is thoroughly set firm, put it into the mould, cover it down, and immerse it in ice until it is required to be sent to table. es ‘ re ’ 4 MILLE-FEUILLES CAKE. 439 1349, ICED PUDDING, A LA PRINCESS ALICE. First, remove the skins from the kernels of about fifty green wal- nuts, then pound these with ten ounces of sugar, until the whole forms a kind of soft and pulpy paste; take this up into a basin, mix it with a pint of single cream, then pass it through a tammy into a purée, and let this be frozen in the usual manner. | While the above is in course of preparation, two dozen greengages must be boiled with twelve ounces of sugar and half a pint of water, until the fruit is dissolved, when the whole must be rubbed through a tammy or sieve: this should then be frozen, adding, if necessary, a little thin syrup. The pudding-mould must now be lined with the sreengage ice, and the centre filled with the walnut-cream ice; then place the lid on the mould, and immerse the pudding in rough ice in the usual manner, until dishing-up time, when the pudding must be turned out on to its dish, garnished round with small almond-gauffres filled with whipped cream, with a preserved cherry placed on the top of each, and served immediately. 1350. MILLE-FEUILLES CAKE,* A LA CHANTILLY. Gives ten turns to one pound of puff-paste (No. 1261), then divide it into two pieces, and roll them out to the thickness of the tenth part of an inch; then, with a cir- cular tin-cutter about five inches in diameter, stamp out eight or ten flats; place these on baking-sheets, stamp out the centre part from each of the flats, leaving only a circular band about two inches wide; shake some fine sugar over them, and bake them of a very hght colour, and when done, allow them to become cold. The flats must now be raised one upon another, with layers of some kind of preserve between each, and placed on a baking-sheet, in order that the cake may be entirely covered with a thin coating of whipped whites of eggs mixed with sugar; this must be smoothed over with the blade of a knife, and should then be ornamented with a paper cornet filled with some of the white of egg, as represented in the wood-cut: «s soon as this is completed, shake some fine sugar over it, and dry it of a very light colour in a slow oven, or else in the hot- eloset. When the decoration of the cake has been dried, it must be ornamented with bright red-currant and apple-jelly, placed tastefully about the design so as to give it more effect. On sending to table, fill the centre of the cake with whipped cream flavoured with some kind of liqueur, garnish the dome of cream with strawberries, and serve. The above may also be ornamented with spun sugar or with pista- * Or “thousand-leaved ” cake, so called from the lightness of the puff-paste wita which it is made, 440 ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS. chios. The pentte. of these cakes may also be filled with a Macédoine of fruit in jelly, or with any of the various kinds of creams; the latter should be whipped on the ice, until nearly set. 1351 APPLES AND RICE, ORNAMENTED. First, turn or peel smoothly about two dozen golden pippins | (afterthe cores have been removed); AY boil these very gently in some light Wap syrup for about ten minutes, when Jy they will be sufficiently done. Then \ah ‘prepare some rice in the same man- WA ner as for a cake, observing that eee aem g X oy for this purpose, it must be kept KYY NY firmer. Prepare also a circular about three inches high, taking care that its diameter suits the dish it is meant for. When the case is baked, fil it with the prepared rice, and pile the apples up in a pyramidal form, as represented in the wood- cut, placing some of the rice in the centre of these. Mask the whole with some diluted apricot-jam, place a pccrres cherry in the whole of each apple, and insert some pieces of angelica cut in the form ot pomted leaves in between the apples. This dish should be served hot, and must, therefore, be dished up only a short time previously to its being served. 1352. APPLES AND RICE, PLAIN. Divip# a dozen apples in halves, take out the cores, peel them, and place them in neat order in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter; strew some lemon-sugar over them, put the lid on, and then bake them without allowing them to acquire any colour. Prepare some rice boiled with milk, sugar, a little butter, and some cinnamon ; when thoroughly done, work this up with a spoon, and then dish it up in the form of a dome; arrange the apples neatly upon this, pour some melted apricot-jam over the whole, and serve quite hot. 1353. APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE. PREPARE some apple marmalade with about a dozen apples. Split a dozen apples into halves, peel them, and remove the cores, and then place them in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter; shake over them, and bake them in the oven. Prepare next a small quan- tity of pastry custard (No. 13811), also an ornamented case (No. 752), which should be partially baked. When the foregoing articles are ready, nearly fill the case with the marmalade of apples, leaving an / A ESAS ACY S) or oval raised pie-case (No. 752), some sugar and grated lemon-peel : 4 4 ; } 1 } } 1 APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE. 4414 opening or well in the centre; then pile the pieces of apples upon the marmalade in the form of a dome, leaving the centre hoilow; {fill this with the pastry-custard, and cover the whole with some orange marmalade. Next, whip four whites of eges quite firm, mix in four ounces of sifted sugar, and use this meringue-paste to finish the apples, according to the design placed at the head of this article: this is done by first masking over the entire surface of the dome, formed by the apples, with a smooth coating of the prepared whites of eggs, and then with a es cornet filled with some of the same, marking out the design: when this has been effected, shake some sifted sugar upon it, and bake the meringue of a very light-fawn colour. Just before sending this entremets to table, finish ornamenting it by filling up the inner part of the cross with alternate strips or layers of red-currant and apple-jellies, and also with greengage or apricot-jam; these must be arranged so as to show their colours distinctly, which will produce a very pretty effect. This entremets should be served hot. 1354. APPLES IN THE FORM OF A PORCUPINE. PREPARE some marmalade with about eighteen apples; place this in an oval case of raised pie-paste previously baked for the purpose; leave a hollow in the centre of the marmalade, fill this up with some pastry custard (No 1311), and spread some apricot-jam over the whole. Next, prepare some meringue-paste as directed in the fore- going article, and spread this over the surface of the apples, giving it at the same time the form of a porcupine; when this has been effected, about six ounces of Jordan almonds, previously shred in strips, must be regularly inserted in close rows, to imitate the quills of the porcu- pine, and the head and feet should be marked out with angelica cut out in imitation of these. Shake some sifted sugar upon the whole, and bake the meringue covering of a very light-fawn colour. Just before sending to table, fill out the circle of the eyes with apple-jelly, with a currant inserted in the centre of each to form the pupils, and use a paper cornet filled with red-currant-jelly, to draw some stripes lengthwise, between the rows of almonds placed on the back. 1355. APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE, ANOTHER WAY Remove the cores from a dozen golden pippins, or small russets ; peel them smoothly, and then simmer them in a pint of light syrup until they are nearly done; they must then be drained on a sieve. Next, spread the bottom and sides of a baked pie-case raised in a mould about two inches high (tart-paste should be used for this ] ‘pose), with apple marmalade mixed with one-third part of orange- jam, and arrange the apples in close circular order in this: each apple must be filled with orange-jam, and the entire surface then masked. over with a rather thick coating of transparent red-currant or apple- jelly. Some tasteful design should be formed on the layer of jelly in the form of a wreath or scroll; this should be done either with almonc. paste, or with puff-paste to which ten turns have been given, then stamped out with appropriate tin-cutters, and placed on a baking- sheet, sugared over and baked, without allowing it to acquire any colour. ‘The latter style of ornameniing is preferable. 449 ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS. 1356. FLAN OF PEACHES. For this purpose, a crust or case should be prepared in the follow- mg manner. First, make one pound of short paste (No. 1255) ; then, spread with butter the inside of a fluted circular or oval mould, about two inches high, and eight inches in diameter ; line this with the paste, cut the edges level, and then raise them all round, and pinch the part that rises above the mould with a pair of pastry pincers. Next, fil] the case with flour, mixed with one-sixth part of chopped suet, and bake it until it is about three parts done; the flour must then be removed, and the case brushed out clean, with a paste-brush; after which it must be nearly filled with halves of peaches, previously skinned and simmered in some thin syrup for about five minutes; the fian must now be placed again in the oven for about a quarter of an hour, and when withdrawn, a close row of halves of peaches (previously simmered in syrup added to the juice of a pint of red currants) should ‘be neatly arranged, and a peach kernel being placed on each piece of peach, let the jelly be poured over the whole, and serve. Note——¥For the preparation of flans of apricots, and all kinds of plums, follow the above directions; except that in either of these ~ cases, the currant juice is to be omitted. | 1357, NEAPOLITAN CAKE, A LA CHANTILLY. First, weigh one pound of flour, eight ounces of sifted sugar, eight ounces of pounded almonds, and eight ounces of butter; place these ingredients on the pastry slab, add five yolks of eggs, the zest of the rind of two oranges extracted by rubbing on a piece of sugar, and a very little salt; work these well together, and when they are tho- roughly mixed, knead the paste into the form of a rolling-pin, and divide it into twelve equal parts; these must be again kneaded into round balls, rolled out to the diameter of about seven inches, placed upon baking-sheets, spread’ with butter ; after having cut them all of the same size with a circular tin-cutter, let them be egged and pricked all over with fork, and baked of a light colour, and when done, placed on a tevel slab or table, with a baking-sheet upon them, to keep them straight as they become cold. These flats must then be laid one upon another, with a layer of some kind of preserve spread between each: apricot, greengage, straw- berry, orange, or raspberry-jam, may be used for the ose. Pre- viously to placing the last piece on the top of the cake, it should be first decorated with meringue-paste or sugar-icing; the sides must be masked with some kind of bright preserve,—such as greengage, apri- cot, red-currant or apple-jelly, and afterwards ornamented with a design similar to that represented ‘in the wood-cut, formed either of es) ae ; ve ‘ = y - 4 CROQUANTE OF RATAFIAS. 443 almond or gum-paste (raised from carved boards used for such pur- poses); or else with piping, as used for wedding-cakes. The cake zhould then be placed on its dish, the centre filled with whipped cream, and some strawberries piled on the top ; when these are not in season, preserved cherries, verjuice, or angelica may be substituted. 1358. CROQUANTE OF ORANGES. Ler the peel and all the white pith be carefully removed with the fingers from about a dozen sound, and not over-ripe, oranges ; then divide them by pulling them into small sections with the fingers, taking care not to break the thin skin which envelopes the juicy pulp, then place them on an earthen dish. Next, put about one pound of the finest lump-sugar into a sugar- boiler with sufficient spring water to just cover it, and boil it down until it snaps or becomes brittle, which may be easily ascertained thus: take up a little of the sugar, when it begins to boil up in large purling bubbles, on the point of a knife, and instantly dip it into some cold water: if the sugar becomes set, it 1s sufficiently boiled, and will then easily snap in breaking.* The sugar should now be withdrawn from the fire. The pieces of orange stuck on the points of small wooden skewers must be slightly dipped in the sugar, and arranged at the bottom and round the sides of a plain circular mould (previously very lightly rubbed with salad- oil), according to the foregoing design. "When the whole is complete, and the sugar has become firm by cooling, just before sending te table, fill the inside of the croguante with whipped cream seasoned with sugar, a glass of maraschino and some whole strawberries, and then tarn it out on to a napkin, and serve. 1359. CROQUANTE OF FRESH WALNUTS. Tue fittest season for making this, is when the walnuts are just ripe enough to be easily taken out of the shell; about sixty will be required for the purpose. They must be carefully shelled and divided into halves, then freed from the thin whitish skin which covers the kernels, and kept in a clean napkin until used. In all other respects, this kind of croguante must be finished as in the preceding case. 1360. CROQUANTE OF RATAFIAS, A LA CHANTILLY ProcvRzE one pound of small ratafias ; boil down one pound of the finest loaf-sugar as directed in the foregoing case. ‘Then, slightly rub the inside of a basket-shaped mould with oil, and proceed to line this with the ratafias lightly dipped in the sugar—taking care to ar- range them in neat and close order ; when the croquante is completed, and the sugar has become firmly set, turn it out of the mould. With the remainder of the sugar, form the handles, and a seroll-pattern border, which is to be placed round the join of the basket, and also * When boiling sugar for this purpose, it is customary to add a pinch of cream of tartar and calcined alum mixed, or, a few drops of acetic-acid. 444 ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS, round the edge: this is effected by dipping the pointed end of the bowl of a spoon into the hot sugar, and then drawing it out, and dropping the sugar from the bowl, in the form of the intended design, on a baking-sheet slightly oiled ; before it becomes set, fix it round the part it is to ornament. Just before sending the croquante to table, fill the inside with whipped cream, arrange some strawberries, preserved cherries or cut angelica, neatly on the surface, and serve. 1361. MERINGUE, A LA PARISIENNE, First, make half a pound of office-paste (No. 1257) ; then, slightly rub the outside of a tin vegetable-cutter, about one and a quarter inch in diameter, and cover this to the extent of about three and a half inches in length, with some of the office-paste rolled out rather thin; fasten the joi neatly with egg, and place it ona baking-sheet ; roll out the remainder of the paste to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch, and, out of this cut two. circular pieces or flats, one measur- ing about six inches, and the other four inches in diameter ; place them on a buttered baking-sheet, egg them over, prick them with a fork, and bake them of a light colour, in a slow oven. When they are done, and have become cold, file or scrape their edges even and smooth, and cut the ends of the pillar even, _that it may stand perfectly level; then fasten the base of the pillar on to the centre of the largest flat, with a little white of egg and fine sugar mixed together; next, fasten the smaller flat on the top of the: pillar in like manner, taking care that it is quite straight, and put the whole to dry in the screen. Whip twelve whites of eggs mto a firm substantial froth, and then mix in one pound of finely-sifted sugar; use part of this to mask the entire surface of the foundation already described, and set this to dry at the entrance of the oven; when it has become comparatively hard, fill a paper cornet or biscuit-forcer, with some of the meringue-paste, and use this to form the design round the pedestal of the meringue, as represented in the wood-cut: when this 1s done, shake some sugar over it, and put it into the oven to be baked of a very light-fawn colour. With part of the meringue-paste, a kind of cup or deep saucer, measuring about seven inches in diameter, must be formed, by cover- ing a flat dome (made of tin) with the paste to the thickness of about an inch; this must be well sugared over and baked firm, without al- lowing it to acquire much colour. When this is done, take the me- ringue carefully off the dome, and place it upside down in a soup plate, and after the white of egg has been partially removed from the inte- rior, smoothed with a spoon, and then sugared over, set it to dry mw the hot-closet, or at the entrance of the oven, if the latter is not toe hot. As soon as the meringue has become dry and hard, fasten it on the pedestal with a little of the paste, and use a paper cornet filled (% Mn SVE AVIS ONS a Bie i aN SK EA\CS a. HN Pan masa 5S re 8 ae a oe 5 a, MERINGUE, ETC, | 445 with meringue-paste, to finish ornamenting the edge and sides, as re- presented in the wood-cut; shake some sifted sugar over the unbaked part, and put the meringue to dry in the hot-closet, taking particular care that it does not acquire any colour. Just before sending to table, place the meringue on a napkin in its dish, fill it with whipped cream flavoured with orange-flower or some liqueur, and strew some strawberries on the surface; garnish round the base with quarters of lemons or oranges filled with jelly (No. 1429), and serve. 13562. GROSSE-MERINGUE WITH PISTACHIOS. PREPARE the meringue-paste as directed in (No. 1298); then cut six circular pieces of writing-paper to the size of a dinner-plate, and proceed to cover each of these with a kind of wreath formed with the meringue-paste. This is effected in the following manner :—First, draw a rather thick circle, about five inches in diameter, round the inner part of one of the pieces of paper above alluded to; then, with a dessert-spoon mould the paste in the form of very small elongated ovals, and place these crosswise, closely to each other, upon the circle already mentioned, thus forming a kind of wreath: fill the remaining five papers in the same way, and then, after the meringues have been well covered with sifted sugar, shake off the loose sugar, place them on square pieces of board, and bake them of a very light colour. When done, turn the wreaths of meringue upside down upon plates, shake some sifted sugar over the unbaked part, and set them to dry in a very slow oven. Just before sending to table, pile the wreaths or rings of meringue one upon another, with a layer of apricot-jam spread in between each ; fill the centre with whipped cream flavoured with a glass of liqueur, and serve. 1363. SWAN OF SAVOY BISCUIT, A LA CHANTILLY. PREPARE sixteen eggs of Savoy-cake batter (No. 1275), and bake it in a plain oval mould,—or failing this, in a deep oblong paper case ; when it is done, and has become quite cold, shape it with a sharp knife in the rough outline of the body of a swan; the wings, tail- piece, and the neck and head, must be made of office-paste (No. 1257); the bill should be dipped in rather high-coloured boiled sugar, and the eyes may be formed with a little of the same, with a currant stuck in the centre, for the pupil. Just before sending the swan to table, stick the neck into the breast-part, insert the wing-pieces in the sides, and the fan-like piece into the tail-part ; cover the bird entirely with a thick coating of whipped cream; first, smooth this over with the blade of a knife, and then, with the point of a small knife, imitate the feathers about the wings, tail, dnd body. Place some spun-sugar round the swan—i imitation of waves, and put a border of petits- choux, glazed with rough sugar and pistachios, round. the base, and serve. 1364, SAVOY CAKE, IN THE FORM OF A GLAZED HAM. Bakz sixteen eggs of Savoy-cake batter in an oblong paper case; when this has become quite cold, shape it in the form of a nicely- trimmed ham, with a sharp knife, and hollow it out underneath. That part of the rind which is usually left adhering to the knuckle rr eo - VO 446 RICE CAKES AND TIMBALES. as an ornament must be imitated by spreading a layer of chocolates * icing over it, in the form of a scollop shell; the remaining part of the surface of the ham should be masked with a coating of diluted bright apricot-jam, to imitate glaze. _~ Just before sending the ham to table, fill the hollow part withsome Macédoine of fruit in jelly, or else with some kind of cream; then place the ham on its dish, fix a handsome paper ruffle on the knuckle with a small silver skewer; garnish the ham round the base with créutons of some kind of sweet jelly, pmk and white; place an ornament of the same on the top, and serve. RICE CAKES AND TIMBALES, COMPRISING Rice Cake, with AJmonds, Macaroni Cake. Timbale of Rice. Semolina Cake. Nouilles Cake, ad l’ Allemande, Potato Cake. Vermicelli Cake. 1365. RICE CAKE, WITH ALMONDS. Wasa twelve ounces of rice, put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, eight ounces of sugar, half an ounce of bitter, and four ounces of sweet almonds (pounded), one quart of milk, and a very little salt; set the whole to boil very gently by the side of a slow stove-fire, and by the time the milk has become absorbed by the rice, the latter will be sufficiently done—or, if not, a little more milk should be added previously to setting it to boil a little longer. When the rice is done, mix in the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three, whipped. Next, shred four ounces of sweet almonds, and strew them equally over the inside of a plain mould, previously rather thickly spread with butter; then, pour in the prepared rice, and bake the cake for about one hour and a half; when done, turn it out on to its dish, pour some diluted apricot-jam round the base, and serve. Note.—Rice cakes may also be flavoured with vanilla, orange-flower, Jemon and cinnamon, coffee, or any kind of liqueur: dried cherries, currants, sultana-raisins, candied-orange, lemon or citron, or pistachio kernels, may be added. 1366. TIMBALE OF RICE. Tux only difference between this and a rice cake consists in the mould being lined either with short or puff-paste: nouwilles-paste, how- ever, is sometimes used for the purpose: it should be rolled in the form of very small pipes, and the mould closely lined with them. The prepared rice should then be poured into the mould, and baked for about an hour and a half. When done, turn the témbale out of the mould on its dish, glaze it over with sugar, and with the salamander. then pour some kind of diluted preserve (warm), round the base. _ POTATO CAKE. | AAT 1367. NOUILLES CAKES, A L’ ALLEMANDE. PREPARE about six yolks of nouilles (No. 1256), put them into a stewpan with one quart of milk of almonds,* eight ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, two sticks of vanilla and a very little salt; cover with the lid, and set them to simmer very gently by the side of a slow stove-fire ; by the time that the nowilles have absorbed all the milk they will be sufficiently done, and must then be withdrawn from the fire and emptied into a basin. Add the yolks of six eggs, and the whipped whites of three, mix the whole lightly together, and pour it inot a mould previously spread with butter, and strewn with shredded almonds. The cake must then be baked in the usual manner, and when done, turned out of the mould on its dish, and served with some Victoria cherry sauce (No. 64). Note.—This kind of cake may also be made with macaroni, vermi- celli, or semolina, and it may be flavoured in the same manner as rice cakes or timbales, 1368. VERMICELLI CAKE. Parport twelve ounces of vermicelli, drain it on a sieve, and then put it into a:stewpan with a pint of cream, four ounces of butter, eight ounces of sugar, the zest or essence of the rind of two oranges extracted by rubbing on a piece of sugar, and a little salt; cover with the lid, and set the stewpan to simmer very gently on a slow fire until the vermicelli has entirely absorbed the cream. Then, add the yolks of six eggs and the whipped whites of three, mix the whole lightly together, and put this preparation into a mould previously spread with butter, and strewn with bread-crumbs; bake the cake in the oven for about an hour and a half, and when done, turn it out on its dish; pour some damson sauce round the base, and serve. 1369. MACCARONI CAKE Is prepared in the same way as a vermicelli cake. 1370. SEMOLINA CAKE. Trs is also made in the same manner as a vermicelli cake, except that it does not require to be parboiled. Sago and tapioca are treated in a similar way. 1371. POTATO CAKE. Bake eighteen large York potatoes, and when done, rub their pulp through a wire sieve; put this into a large basin, add four ounces of. butter, eight ounces of sifted sugar, a spoonful of pounded vanilla, a gill of cream, the yolks of six eggs, and the whipped whites of two, and a little salt; work the whole well together, and then place it ina mould previously spread with butter, and strewn with bread-crumbs ; * Milk of almonds is prepared in the following manner :—First, remove the skins from eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, then pound them thoroughly in a mortar, adding occasionally a few drops of water; when they are well pulverised, place them in a basin, add a quart of spring water, mix well together, and allow this to stand for about an hour; the milk may ther te dvawn off by straining it through a napkin. 448 SOUFFLES. bake the cake for about an hour, and when done, dish it up witha fruit sauce poured round the base, made in the following manner :— Pick one pound of either currants, raspberries, cherries, damsons, strawberries, or apricots; place them in a stewpan with eight ounces of sifted sugar and half a gill of water: boil the whole down to the consistency of a thick purée, and then rub it through a sieve or tammy. SOUFFLES IN GENERAL, COMPRISING Potato-flour Souffiés: Souffiés of Raspberries. Sousflé of Rice. Brown-bread Souffié, d ? Allemande. Chocolate Souffié. Omelette Soufiée. Coffee Souffle. Pancakes, plain. Ginger Souffle. », Gla Celestine. Pine-apple Souffle. Pancakes Souffes. Souffle of Apricots. 1372. POTATO-FLOUR SOUFFLE, Inereprients :—Six ounces of potato-flour, ten ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, twelve eggs, two ‘sticks of vanilla, and a little salt. Put the milk or cream to boil, then throw in the vanilla, cover the stewpan with its lid, and allow the infusion to stand for about half an hour, in order to extract the flavour of the vanilla. Next, put the potato-flour, the sugar, butter, salt, and one egg into a stewpan, and mix the whole well together ; then add the milk and the vanilla, and stir the preparation on the stove-fire until it boils, when it must be worked with the spoon to make it perfectly smooth ; after adding the yolks of ten eggs, set it aside, while the ten whites are being whipped quite firm, and then add these in with the soufflé batter : pour the whole lightly into a sougié dish, having a broad band of buttered cartridge paper round the outside, and then set it in the oven to bake: this will take about three-quarters of an hour. When the souflé is done, place it (on its baking-sheet) upon another baking-sheet covered with hot embers of charcoal, and let it be thus carried to the dinmg-room door; just before dishing it up, remove the bands of paper, ‘shake some sifted sugar over the top, place it in the souffé dish, and serve mamediately. : Note.—Soufiés of flour, ground rice, semolina, arrow-root, tapioca, tous-les-mois (a kind of potato-tlour), shouid all be prepared as the above ; substituting either of these for the potato-flour. Soufilés ma be flavoured with orange, lemon, cinnamon, orauge-flowers, or wit any kind of essence or liqueur. 1373. SOUFFLE OF RICE. Inereprents :—Six ounces of rice, ten ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, ten eggs, two lemons, a quart of milk, and a little salt. Wash the rice and parboil it in water for five minutes ; then put it nto a stewpan with the sugar, butter, inilk, and salt, and set this te —— “ia”, % : _ %. 4 « - \ t SOUFFLES. 449 simmer very gently on a slow fire for about an hour, by which time the grains of the rice will have become quite soft; the whole should now be well worked with a wooden spoon, and the ten yolks of eggs, with the rind of the lemons rubbed on sugar, should then be added, and if the rice be too firm, a little cream also. The ten whites of eggs must be whipped very firm, then lightly mixed in with the prepara- tion, and poured into the soufilé case or crust, baked for about three- quarters of an hour, and served immediately. 1374. CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE, Tis 1s made by adding eight ounces of finely-scraped vanilla cho- _ colate to two-thirds of the same kind of preparation directed to be used in making a patato-flour souglé. The same number of eggs are also required. 1375. COFFEE SOUFFLE, Por eight ounces of Mocha coffee into an untinned stewpan or sugar-boiler, and roast it of a light colour, by stirring it continually -.over a charcoal fire. When the coffee has acquired a light-brown colour, toss it up in the pan, blow away the small burnt particles, and then throw it into a pint of boiling cream ; put the lid on the infusion, and allow it to ot for about half an hour, in order to‘extract the flavour. Then, strain the infusion away from the coffee-berries, in a basin, and use it to mix up the souffé, in exactly the same manner as described for the potato-flour soufflé. 1376. GINGER SOUFFLE. PREPARE a potato-flour-souflé, and add to it eight ounces of pre- served ginger cut up into small dice-like pieces. The vanilla must of course be omitted. 1377. PINE-APPLE SOUFFLE. Fottow the directions for making a potato-flour soufié, adding to — it about one pound of preserved pine-apple, cut up into small pieces ; ' the syrup of this should-also be added. 1378. SOUFFLE OF APRICOTS. Remove the stones, and peel eighteen ripe apricots, then put them, together with the kernels, into a stewpan with twelre ounces of pounded sugar ; stir this over the fire with a wooden spoon, and as soon as the fruit is boiled down to a jam, withdraw it from the fire, and mix it with half the usual quantity of the preparation for a potato-flour soufié. The same number of eggs are required, and in all other respects the same directions should be followed. Note.»—Souflés of peaches, nectarines, and ‘al kinds of plums, are pre- pared in the same manner as the above. 1379. SOUFFLE OF RASPBERRIES. Pour one pound of picked raspberries into a small preserving pan, with twelve ounces of pounded sugar, stir the whole over a charcoal fire until it has boiled for about five minutes, and then rub it through a sieve. Use this preparation as directed for making a soufié of _ apricots. ; 24a 450 PANCAKES. ) 7 Note-—Soufiés of currants, strawberries or gooseberries, are made m the same way. 1380. BROWN-BREAD SOUFFLE, A L'ALLEMANDE. Pur one pound of brown bread-crumbs into a stewpan, with a pint of cream, ten ounces of pounded sugar, four ounces of butter, and a iittle salt, and flavour it with some cinnamon-powder and lemon-sugar. . Stir this over the stove-fire until it boils, then remove it, and add the yolks of ten eggs; next, whip the whites quite firm, and mix them in lightly with the preparation, then pour it into the souffé-case, and bake it in the usual manner: when done, shake some cinnamon-sugar over it, and serve. 1381. OMELETTE SOUFFLE. Pur the yolks of six eggs into a large basin, add six ounces of pounded sugar, a dessert-spoonful of potato-flour, ditto of orange- flower-water (or any other kind of essence or liqueur used for such purposes), and a very little salt; stir these together with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes; then whip the six whites, and mix them: in lightly with the batter. Next, put two ounces of butterinto an omelet-pan, set it on a stove-fire, and as soon as the butter begins to sputter, pour the whole of the omelet-batter into it; set the pan ever the fire, and as the batter becomes partially set round the sides and at the bottom of the pan, toss it over and over gently, and then turn the omelette out neatly, and as much as possible in the form of a dome, on to a silver dish previously spread with butter; put it in the oven, and bake it for about twelve minutes, when 1t will be ready to send to table. Shake some sugar on the omelette, and serve it imme- diately. 1382. PANCAKES, PLAIN. Mrx four ounces of flour with four ounces of pounded sugar, two ounces of bruised ratafias, a dessert-spoonful of orange-flower-water, four yolks and two whole eggs, a pint of cream and a very little salt. When milk is used instead of cream, two ounces of butter should be added, and must be melted previously to its being mixed in with the batter. When about to fry the pancakes, melt about two ounces of butter in a small stewpan, and keep this by the side of the stove; before throwing any of the batter into the pan, first pour a little of the butter over the bottom; fry the pancakes on both sides of a very light-brown colour, pile them one upon another on the dish and serve immediately. Plain pancakes should be eaten with a litédle lemon- Juice and some pounded sugar. 1383. PANCAKES, A LA CELESTINE. Prepare the pancakes as above, and as each is fried, spread some apricot-jam upon it, then roll it up, and place it on a baking-sheet in the oven; when a sufficient number is ready, shake some sifted sugar over them, glaze them with a red-hot salamander, and then dish up the pancakes on a napkin in close circular order, in double or treble rows, and serve them quite hot. CHERRY BREAD. 451 1384, PANCAKES SOUFFLES. PrEPaRrE some potato-flour soufié-batter (No. 1872)—about half the usual quantity will suffice; make also the usual quantity of pan- cake-batter. Then fry the pancakes, and as they are done, spread them over with apricot-jam, and pile them up one upon another in the form of a dome, with a thick layer of the soufié-batter in between each pancake. When the whole is complete, put them in the oven to bake for about half an hour; when done, shake some sugar over the top, and serve immediately. PUDDINGS IN GENERAL, COMPRISING Brown-bread Pudding, d /a Gotha. Ginger Pudding. _. Cherry Bread. Pine Apple ,, Mehl Prie. ) Lemon Krapfen, or German Puffs. Orange Rs Semolina Pudding, ¢ /a Baden. Bread » plain. Dampfnudeln, or German Dumplings, Rusk ¥; Pudding, d Ja Coburg. Apple . » la Frangaise. Biscuit » la Prince Albert. » Gla Viennoise. Plum 5 Cabinet Pudding. Tapioca a Chestnut ,, 1385. BROWN-BREAD PUDDING, A LA GOTHA. Ger ready the following ingredients :—Twelve ounces of brown bread-crumbs, six ounces of pounded sugar, six eggs, half a pint of whipped cream, some grated ‘lemon-rind, a little cinnamon-powder, one pound of morello cherries, and a little salt. Mix the bread-crumbs, sugar, the yolks of eggs, and whipped cream, the lemon, cinnamon, and the salt, together in a large basin; then add the whipped whites of six eggs, and set this aside. Next, spread a plain mould with butter, and strew it with brown bread- crumbs; then, spread a large spoonful of the preparation at the bot- tom of the mould, and arrange a layer of cherries (with the stones left in) upon it; cover this with some of the preparation, and upon it place more cherries, and so on until the mould is filled. The pud- ding must now be placed on a baking-sheet, and put in the oven (moderately heated), to be baked for about an hour; when done, turn it out of the mould on its dish, pour a purée of cherry-sauce round the base, and serve. | In Saxony, it is customary to eat this kind of pudding as a cake, when cold; in this case it should be entirely covered with sifted sugar, mixed with one-fourth part of cinnamon-powder. 1386. CHERRY BREAD. Prcx the stalks from two pounds of Kentish-cherries, and pound them in a mortar so as to bruise the stones; they must then be placed in a small preserving-pan with about a pint of claret or port- wine, and twelve ounces of sugar; allow this to boul upon the stove- 2a2 452 PUDDINGS fire, remove the scum as it rises, and after the cherries have boiled for about ten minutes, rub the whole through a sieve, and then pour it into a silver soufié-case. While the above part of the entremets is in course of preparation, a dozen pieces of crumb of bread, or French rolls, cies in the form of eggs with a sharp knife, should be fried of a light-fawn colour, in some clarified butter. After these have been drained on a clean cloth, place them in close circular rows in the purée of cherries ; shake some cinnamon-sugar over the surface, set the cherry-bread on a baking-sheet in the oven, to simmer slowly for about half an honr, and when done, send to table. 1387. MEHL PRIE. INGREDIENTS required :—Six ounces of flour, eight ounces of _pounded sugar, two sticks of vanilla, avery little salt, a quart of cream, anda pint of milk. Put theflour, sugar, and salt, into an appropriate-sized stewpan, and mix in with these the cream and milk with the vanilla; then, stir the whoie with a wooden spoon over a brisk charcoal fire, until it has boiled down to about one-half of its original quantity ; the mehl prie should then be withdrawn from the fire, and kept hot by the side of the stove, the stewpan containing it being kept covered with its lid. Next, place an untinned baking-sheet on a trivet over a charcoal stove- fire, and when it has become too hot for the hand to remain upon it, spread the centre over with a thin coating of the mehl prie (which may be done with the back of a wooden spoon), and as this becomes browned, it will detach itself from the baking-sheet; it must then be removed, and before it has cooled, should be cut or stamped out with a tin-cutter. This must be repeated until the process has furnished a plateful of crisp chips. When about to send the mehl prie to table, the custard pudding should be poured into a soufié-dish, and the chips sent up separately on.a plate ; when served at table, a small ladleful of the custard should be first poured on the guest’s plate, and then a spoonful of the chips placed upon this. 1888. KRAPFEN, OR GERMAN FUFFS, INGREDIENTS required :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, six eges, a gill of eream, one ounce of sugar, one ounce of German yeast, a very little salt, with the rind of two oranges rubbed on a piece of sugar and the zest then scraped off. First, set the sponge, with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast, in the usual manner, and let it rise in a warm temperature; meanwhile spread the flour out in the form of a ring, and place the sugar, salt, butter, eggs, and cream in the centre; then work the whole well together with both hands; gather it up in a heap towards the edge of the slab; and with the knuckles of both hands bent under, rub the paste quickly before you on the slab; then gather it up again in a heap by taking up small portions at a time with both hands held together, and fling it down on the slab with some force. ‘This must be constantly repeated for about five minutes. As soon as the sponge has sufficiently risen, let it be added to the paste, and thoroughly incorporated with it. The krapfen-paste should now be gathered up, and placed in a clean napkin previously strewn over with flour to ——— eS ee -— PUDDING, A LA COBURG. 453 prevent the paste from adhering to it, and set in a rather cool place to rise: this require about four hours. The paste must then be kneaded on the slab, and after it has been again placed in the cool for about half an hour, let it be cut up into about thirty pieces of equa! size; knead these in the form of round balls, and place them by half- dozens, on separate sheets of paper spread with butter; the sheets of krapfen must now be placed on baking-sheets, and set to rise in a warm part of the kitchen: when the krapfen have risen, immerse them in some clean hogs’-lard made quite hot for the purpose, and fry them of a light colour; as soon as they are done, drain them on a clean cloth, shake some cinnamon and orange sugar over them, dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve them with some warm apricot-jam diluted with a little water or syrup. 1389. SEMOLINA PUDDING, A LA BADEN. INGREDIENTS required :—Twelve ounces of semolina, six ounces of pounded ae eight ounces of butter, eight eggs, a pint of cream, a table-spoo of orange-flower-water, two ounces of ratafias, and a ~ little salt. Mix the semolina with the’ sugar, the orange-flower-water, half the — butter, two eggs, the cream, and salt, in. a stewpan; stir this over a stove-fire until it boils, then work it perfectly smooth, and keep work- ing the paste over the stove-fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; then, withdraw it from the fire, and gradually mix in the remainder of the eggs and butter, and also the bruised ratafias. Next, spread the inside of a plain mould with butter, and fill it with the preparation of semolina; put the bottom of the mould in a deep sautapan, half filled with hot water, and place it in the oven to bake for about an hour and a quarter; when done, turn the pudding out on to its dish, pour either a fruit or custard sauce over it, and serve. 1390. DAMPFNUDELN, OR GERMAN DUMPLINGS. THESE are made with the same kind of paste as the hrapfen (No. 1388), but half the quantity will suffice for this purpose. When the fermentation of the paste has properly taken place, let it be laid on the pastry-slab, kneaded into a dozen small rolls, and then placed ina deep sautapan, about an inch apart from each other: as much warm milk must be poured over them, as will suffice to cover their surface, and as soon as they have risen to nearly twice their original size, put them in the oven to be baked of a light colour; just before withdrawing them from the oven, see that the milk is not absorbed by dampfnudeln, and let them be glazed over with sugar and the red-hot salamander. Dish them up ona napkin, and send some vanilla-custard sauce separately in a sauce-boat. 7 1391. PUDDING, A LA COBURG, For this purpose it is necessary to have some ready-baked brioche. This should be cut in circular slices, about an inch less in diameter than the mould intended to be used for the pudding; the slices of brioche must be placed on a dish, and soaked in maraschino. The sides of the mould should be spread with butter, and ornamented with dried cherries and candied citron ; and previously to placing the pieces of brioche in the mould, let each of them be spread with apricot-jam ; . 454 PUDDINGS. the mould ‘must then be filled up with sume vanilla-custard prepared for the purpose, part of which must, however, be reserved for the sauce. ‘The pudding should be steamed in the usual way for about an hour and a quarter, and when done, turned out on its dish, and the sauce poured over it. 1392. PUDDING, A LA FRANCAISE. Taxes the following ingredients :—Twelve ounces of chopped mar row, eight ounces of flour, eight ounces of apricot-jam, four ounces of chopped apples, six ounces of dried cherries, six ounces of candied orange-peel and citron, four ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, six cloves (pounded), a tea-spoonful of cinnamon-powder, the zest of — the rind of two oranges on sugar, five whole eggs, a glass Ey: | a little salt, and about half a pint of cream. Put the above ingredients into a large basin, and mix them well together; spread a mould with butter, shake a little flour about the inside, fill it with the pudding, and after tying it up in a cloth, boil it for about four hours, and when done, dish it up with a German custard- sauce, made as follows :— Put four yolks of eggs nto a bain-marie or stewpan, together with two ounces of pounded sugar, a glass of sherry, some orange or lemon peel (rubbed on loaf sugar), and a very little salt. Whisk this sharply over a very slow fire, until it assumes the appearance of a light froth custard. q 1393. PUDDING, A LA VIENNOISE. INGREDIENTS required :—Twelve ounces of brioche, or crumb of bread cut up into small dice, two glasses of Madeira, the rind of two lemons, two ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds pounded, six ounces of sultana raisins, a burnt-sugar custard, made with eight yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, two ounces of burnt-sugar, and sweetened with six ounces of loaf-sugar. Put the brioche, almonds, rind of lemon (rubbed on sugar), and the sultanas, into a large basin; pour the Madeira to this, and when it has been absorbed by the brioche, &c., pour as much of the burnt-sugar custard on it as will suffice to complete the quantity required to fill the mould. Then, spread the inside of the mould with butter, decorate it with candied orange-peel, and fill it with the above preparation. This pudding must be steamed for about an hour and a half, and when ‘done, turned out on its dish, some custard or arrow-root-sauce poured over it, and sent to table. 1394. CABINET PUDDING. Spreap the inside of,g plain mould with butter, and ornament the sides with dried cheries and candied citron; fill the mould with alternate layers of slices of sponge-cakes and ratafias or macaroons ; then fill up the mould with a lemon custard made with eight yolks of eggs, a pint of milk or cream, six ounces of sugar, a glass of brandy, and the grated rind of a lemon. This custard must not be set, but merely mixed up. Steam the pudding in the usual way, for about an kour and a half, and when done, dish it up either with arrow-root- sauce or a custard. ee ware ae) i y = be es tae . : i ie “is : ‘ ‘>? ee ORANGE PUDDING. 455 1895. CHESTNUT PUDDING. Bake or boil fifty fine chestnuts, rub their pulp through a sieve, and place this in a stewpan with a pint of cream, four ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, a pounded stick of vanilla, and a very little salt; stir these ingredients over a stove-fire until the preparation thickens, and then quicken the motion of the spoon, so as to prevent the paste _ from adhering to the bottom of the stewpan. As soon as it leaves the sides of the stewpan, remove it from the fire, add eight yolks, and the whites of six eggs whipped firm; pour the pudding mixture into a plain mould, previously spread with butter, and then steam it for about an hour and a half When the pudding is done, turn it care- _ fully out of the mould on its dish, pour some warm diluted apricot-jam over it, and serve. 1396. GINGER PUDDING. Inc@gprents required :—Six ounces of flour, six ounces of sugar, six eggs, eight ounces of preserved ginger, a pint of cream, six ounces -. of butter, a little salt. Put the cream, sugar, butter and salt into a stewpan on the fire, and as soon as these begin to simmer, take off the stewpan, throw in the flour, and stir the whole together quickly; then put this paste back again on the fire, and continue stirring it for about five minutes ; it must then be withdrawn, and the six eggs mixed in gradually with it. The ginger, cut into small pieces, must now be added to the preparation, which must then be poured into the mould previously spread with butter. Steam it for an hour and a half, and when done, dish up the pudding with a custard-sauce made with the syrup from the ginger. 1397. PINE-APPLE PUDDING. T'HIs is made in the same manner as the above, pine-apple being substituted for ginger. 1398. LEMON PUDDING. IneREDIENTS required :—The juice and grated rind (rubbed on sugar) of six lemons, a pint of cream, six ounces of bruised ratafias, twelve yolks and the whites of four eggs, whipped, half a nutmeg grated, a little cinnamon powder, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, and a very little salt. Mix the above altogether in a large basin, and work the ingredients together with a whisk for about ten minutes. Next, put a border of puff paste round the edge of a tart dish, spread the dish with butter, pour the batter into it, strew some shred a: kernels on the top, and bake it for about half an hour (at moderdte heat). When done, . _- shake some shifted sugar over it, and serve. 1399. ORANGE PUDDING. Tis is made as the above; double the quantity of oranges may be used for this purpose, owing to their not containing so m¥@éh acid as lemons; but the rind of three will suffice for the zest. . > * 7 - 456 | PUDDINGS. 1400. BREAD PUDDING, PLAIN. INGREDIENTS :—Twelve ounces of bread-crumbs, six ounces of.sugar, two ounces of butter, a pint of milk, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of sugar, six yolks of eggs, and two whites whipped, and a little t. Put the bread-crumbs into a basin with the sugar, butter, lemon- sugar, and salt; then pour in the milk boiling, cover up the whole and leave it to steep for about ten minutes; the eggs may then be added, and after the whole has been well mixed together, pour the reparation into a mould, or pudding basin, previously spread with utter. Steam the pudding for about an hour, and when done, dish it up with some arrow-root-sauce made as follows: Mix a dessert- spoonful of arrow-root with twice that quantity of sugar, half the - juice of a lemon, a little nutmeg, and a gill of water, and stir this over the fire until it boils. 1401. RUSK PUDDING. Inareprents :—A dozen rusks, a plain custard of six eggs, a pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, a glass of maraschino, a little salt, and four ounces of dried cherries. 3 Spread a plain mould with butter, arrange the cherries round the sides and bottom, dip the rusks in the custard, and place them in the mould with a layer of raspberry-jam between each layer of rusks ; fill up the mould with the custard, and steam the pudding in the usual manner. When. done, dish it up with a German custard-sauce (No. 1392). 1402. APPLE PUDDING. PEEL two dozen grey russets, remove the cores and cut them up in slices; then put the apples into a deep sautapan with four ounces of butter, the rind of two lemons, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, and one pound of apricot jam; toss the whole over a slow stove-fire until the apples begin to dissolve, and then set them aside to cool. Next, line a good-sized pudding basin with some light-made suet paste, fill this with the prepared apples, place a covering of paste on the top, fasten it down securely, and then steam it in,the usual manner for about two hours. When the pudding is done, dish it up, pour some warm apricot jam over it, and serve. - 1403. BISCUIT PUDDING, A LA PRINCE ALBERT. Inerepients :—Twelve ounces of crumbled Savoy cake, a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs and the whipped whites of two, the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar, four ounces of pounded sugar, and a little salt. , Pour the pint of cream (boiling) on to the crumbled Sayoy cake and let it steep for a few minutes ; then add the sugar, the eggs, the _ Jemon-sugar and the salt: mix the whole lightly together, pour the preparation into a mould spread with. butter, and steam the pudding for about an hour and a quarter. When done, dish it up with a puree of currants and raspberries for the sauce, or else serve a custard - sauce over it. 'FONDU OF PARMESAN CHEESE. 457 1404, PLUM PUDDING. In@REpients :—Three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a pound of currants, half a pound of candied orange, lemon, and citron, one pound and a quarter of chopped beef suet, one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, four eggs, about three gills of milk, the grated rind of two lemons, half an ounce of nutmeg, aaa and cloves (in powder), a glass of brandy, and a very little salt. Mix the above ingredients thoroughly together in a large basin several hours before the pudding is to be boiled; pour them into a mould spread with butter, which should be tied up in a cloth. The udding must then be boiled for four hours and a half; when done, ish it up with a German custard-sauce spread over it (No. 13892)- 1405. TAPIOCA PUDDING. InGREDIENTs :—Ten ounces of tapioca, a quart of milk, six ounces of sugar, six yolks gf eggs and two whipped whites, the grated rind of a lemon, two ounces of butter, and a little salt. Put the tapioca, sugar, butter, salt, grated lemon, and the milk into a stewpan, stir this over the fire until it boils; then cover the chi with its lid, and set it on. a very slow stove-fire (partially smothered with ashes), to continue gently simmering for a quarter of an hour. The tapioca.should then be withdrawn from the fire, and after the six yolks and the two whipped whites of eggs have been thoroughly incorporated in it, pour the preparation into a mould or pudding basin previously spread with butter; steam the pudding for about an hour and a half, and when done, dish it up with either a plain arrow- root or custard-sauce over it. Sago or semolina may be prepared in the same manner. Note-—In addition to the foregoing, puddings may also be made with every kind of preparation described for making timbales or cakes of rice, vermicelli, maccaroni, nouilles, &c. These may be either steamed in a mould or pudding-basin, or baked in a pie-dish. 1406. FONDU OF PARMESAN CHEESE. INGREDIENTS :—Twelve ounces of fresh Parmesan cheese grated, tour ounces of flour, twelve eggs, four ounces of butter, a pint of milk or cream, a pinch of mignionette-pepper, and a very little salt. Mix the flour, butter, pepper and salt, well together with the milk, and then stir this over the fire until it boils; work the batter quickly with the spoon to render it perfectly smooth, then add the grated cheese and the twelve yolks of eggs; whip the whites quite firm, and add them also, very lightly. ‘Fill the souflé case with the fondu, bake it for about three-quarters of an hour, and send it to table as soon ag it is ready. Note.—Half the quantity of Gruyere with the other half of Parme- san cheese is sometimes used. It is also customary to season fondus with mustard, lemon-juice, Cayenne pepper, and essence of anchovies, for those who prefer high seasoning to the more delicate flavour of . the Parmesan cheese: the latter is most likely to be approved of by e, true epicure. 458, JELLIES, COMPRISING Calf’s-foot Jelly, with Wine. Currant and Raspberry Jeily Clarification of Calf’s-foot Jelly, for general Strawberry Jelly. urposes. Cherry Jelly. Orange Jelly, made with Calf’s-foot Stock. Mulberry Jelly. Clarified Syrup, for Jellies. Maceédoine of Fruits. To clarify Isinglass. Orange Jelly, garnished with quarters of Preparation of Paper for filtering Orange or Oranges. Lemon Juice for Jellies. Maraschino Jelly. Orange Jelly, a 1? Anglaise. Variegated Jelly, d fa Victoria. Lemon Jelly, d 7? Anglaise. Panachee Jelly. Orange Jelly, d la Frangaise. Russian Jelly. Pomegranate Jelly. Punch Jelly. Pine Apple Jelly. Oranges filled with transparent Jelly. 1407. CALF’S-FOOT JELLY, WITH WINE. Sprit four calf’s feet, break up the bones, and put the whole into a gallon-sized stewpan or stock-pot; then fill 1t up with cold water, and set it on the fire to boil; remove the scum as it rises to the surface, and when the stock has been thoroughly skimmed, set it down by the side of the fire, to continue gently boiling for about five hours. The stock must then be strained off through a sieve into a basin or pan, and set aside in a cool place until it has become firm. The grease should be scraped off the surface with a spoon, and a little boiling water thrown over it, in order to wash away any that may remain; 16 should then be wiped with a clean cloth and put into a stewpan to melt over the fire. Next, add two pounds of loaf sugar, a pint of ‘sherry, two glasses of brandy, twelve cloves, a stick of cmnamon, the rind of four lemons peeled very thin, and without any of the pith, as this is bitter; then pour in the whites of six eggs and two whole eggs whipped up with a little cold water and the bruised shells; whip this well together over the fire, and when it is near boiling, throw in the juice of eight lemons, stir the jelly with the whisk for a minute or so, and then set the stewpan down by the side of the fire; put on the lid with some live embers upon it, and allow the jelly to stand by the side of the stove-fire for a quarter of an hour longer, to set the eggs. Next, throw the jelly into a jelly-bag fixed on a stand, ready with a basin placed under, to receive it as it passes through the bag; con- tinue pouring the jelly back again through the bag several times, until it runs quite bright and clear; then cover over the stand with a cloth, and leave the jelly to run until the whole is passed. _ This kind of jelly may either be served in glasses, or set in moulds imbedded in rough ice; when it has become quite firm, dip the mould in hot water, wipe it, and then turn the jelly out carefully on its dish. 1408. CLARIFICATION OF CALF’S-FOOT JELLY, FOR GENERAL PURPOSES. Pur the prepared stock of four calf’s feet into a stewpan with two pounds of sugar, the rind of four lemons, and the juice of eight; whip ee, a ee ee ee — | . JELLIES. 459 six whites and two whole eggs together, with half a pint of spring- — water ; throw this in with the stock, and whisk the whole together over the stove-fire, until it is on the point of boiling, then add the juice of another lemon and a little spring-water; withdraw the jelly from the stove, and set it down by the side, to continue gently sim- mering for about ten minutes longer, covered with the stewpan lid containing some live embers of charcoal. The jelly may then be passed through the bag in the usual way, and when it has run through perfectly bright, let it be kept in a cool place to be used as occasion may require. This kind of foundation or stock-jelly, prepared without any de- cided flayour, may be used for making all kinds of jellies: it will then only be necessary to add, to the quantity required to fill a mould, a gill and a half of any kind of liqueur: and if the jelly be too stiff, a little thin syrup may also be added. It may be used likewise for making fruit jellies, with the addition of a pint of the filtered juice of currants, raspberries, cherries or strawberries, or half a pint of the clarified infusion syrup of peaches, apricots, or pine-apples. 1409. ORANGE JELLY, MADE WITH CALEF’S-FOOT STOCK. To the stock produced from four calf’s feet, add two pounds of loaf- sugar, the juice of six lemons and a dozen oranges, and the rind of eight oranges; put the stewpan on the fire to melt the stock, and then pour in the whipped whites of eggs, and continue whisking the jelly on the stove-fire until it begins to simmer; it must then be set down by the side of the stove-fire, covered with the stewpan lid, and allowed to continue simmering till the egg is set: the jelly must then be passed through the bag in the usual way, and just before putting it into the mould, a few drops of prepared cochineal should be added to give it an orange-pink tinge. Note.—Lemon jelly is prepared in the same way as the above, sub- stituting lemons for oranges. 1410. CLARIFIED SYRUP, FOR JELLIES. To every pound of the finest loaf sugar, whatever quantity may be required, add rather more than a pint of spring-water ; and when the . sugar is dissolved, add half the white of an egg whipped up with a little water; whisk the whole well together, set the stewpan on the stove-fire, and as soon as the syrup begins to boil, set it down by the side of the fire to continue gently boiling, until it has thrown up all the scum: remove this as it rises to the surface, and then strain the syrup through a napkin into a basin, and keep it in a cool place for use. 1411. To CLARIFY ISINGLASS. * First wash the isinglass in cold water, to free it from the dust that is apt to gather about it; then put it into astewpan, and to every two ounces add half a pint of spring-water, and about one ounce of sugar; stir this on the stove-fire till it boils, then throw in the juice of half a lemon, and set the stewpan by the side of the stove, to con- tinue gently boiling for about ten minutes, in order to dissolve the shreds of isinglass, and that it may thereby throw up all the scum, which should be removed as it rises to the surface; the isinglass may * Note, Use genuine Russian isinglass imported by CRossE and BLACKWELL, Soli Square. 460 JELLIES then be strained through a napkin into a basin, and ased for the re. quired purpose. ; | Tsinglass may also be clarified by adding a very small quantity of whipped white of egg, after it has been dissolved in water as directed above, and then allowed to cool previously to mixing in the white of egg; it must then be allowed to boil gently by the side of the stove- fire, and when perfectly cleared of all the scum, should be strained’ through a napkin. Note-—There are several kinds of gelatine in use which serve the same purpose as isinglass, with more or less success; all these may be clarified in the same way as the above. 1412. PREPARATION OF PAPER FOR FILTERING ORANGE OR LEMON-JUICE, FOR JELLIES. Wasu several sheets of white blotting-paper (of the best quality) in eold water; then boil them in two quarts of water for about twenty minutes, strain the water from the paper and pound it in a mortar until reduced to a fine pulp; mix this with a spoonful of washed white sand, then add both to the juice intended to be filtered, and throw the whole into a clean beaver jelly-bag. Pass the juice through the filtering bag until it drops as bright as spring-water. 14138. ORANGE JELLY, A L’ANGLAISE, Rvs the rind of six oranges upon twe-ve ounces of the best loaf- sugar and put this into a basin; then squeeze the juice from a dozen ripe oranges and four lemons, and add this to the sugar. Next, cla. rify two ounces of isinglass as directed in No. 1411, and mix this with the juice and sugar in a sugar-boiler, add six drops of prepared cochineal, and stir the whole over the stove-fire till the jelly becomes tepid ; then strain it through a hair-sieve into a basin, and when it has become quite cold and is commencing to congeal on the surface and sides of the basin, stir it well together, and pour it into a mould previously imbedded in rough ice. When the jelly is set firm, dip the mould in rather warm water, wipe it with a cloth, and turn it out carefully on its dish. 1414. LEMON JELLY, A L’ANGLAISE. THs is prepared in the same way as the above, substituting lemons for oranges ; 1t will be necessary, however, to add four ounces of sugar, on account of the acidity of the lemons. 1415.. ORANGE JELLY, A LA FRANQGAISE. Puen off the rind from six oranges, as thin as possible, and put it into a pint basin. Then clarify one pound of the finest loaf-sugar with a pint of spring-water and half the white of an egg, and strain it through a napkin on to the rind; cover the basin down with a sheet of paper twisted tightly round the edges, to prevent the volatile es- sence of the essential oil contained in the rind from escaping. Extract the juice from twelve oranges and four lemons (by pressure) into a basin, remove the pips, and filter the juice as directed in No. 1412; this being done, strain the infusion syrup through a napkin into a basin, add the filtered juice, two ounces of clarified isinglass and sbr s a a ae ‘ JELLIES. 461 drops of prepared cochineal; stir these together, and then pour the jelly into the mould previously imbedded in rough ice. Note.—Lemon jelly a la Frangaise is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, except that the cochineal must be omitted, and four ounces of sugar added to qualify the acidity of the lemons. 1416. POMEGRANATE JELLY. Exreraort the bright pips from six ripe pomegranates, bruise these in a basin, with one pound of roughly-pounded sugar, add thereto a gill of spring-water, and then filter the preparation through a beaver jelly-bag, without the aid of paper pulp, in order to praseete the deli- cate flavour of the fruit: when either paper or sand is made use of for the purpose of filtering the juice of any kind of delicate flavoured fruit, although the juice is rendered brighter, it certainly loses much of its original flavour. The filtered juice of the pomegranates must then be mixed with two ounces of clarified isinglass, six drops of cochineal, and, if necessary to make out the quantity of jelly required to fill the mould, some thin clarified syrup may be added. Set a jelly mould in a basin of rough ice, and fill the mould with alternate layers of jelly and the bright pips of this fruit. | Note.—A glass of noyeau or maraschino may be added, if approved of. 1417. PINE-APPLE JELLY. PxzEL a pine-apple of about one-pound weight, cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and put these into a basin. Clarify one pound of loaf-sugar with a pint of spring-water, the juice of two lemons, and half the white of an egg whipped with a little water; when thoroughly skimmed, strain the syrup on to the pine-apple, allow it to boil for three minutes, then cover it down with a sheet of paper twisted round the basin, and allow the infusion to stand for several hours, in order to extract the flavour. When about to mix the jelly, strain the syrup through a napkin into a basin, and put the pieces of pine-apple to drain upon a sieve; add two ounces of clarified isinglass to the pine-apple syrup, and then pour the jelly into a mould previously imbedded in rough ice. 1418. CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JELLY. Prcx the stalks from one quart of red currants and a pottle of rasp- berries, then put these into a large basin-with halfa pound of pounded sugar and a gill of spring-water ; bruise them thoroughly, by squeezing them with the back part of the bowl of a wooden spoon against the sides of the basin, then throw the whole into a beaver jelly-bag, and filter the juice, pouring it back into the bag until it runs through perfectly bright; next add half a pint of clarified syrup, and two ounces of clarified isinglass to the juice, and pour the jelly into.a mould placed in rough ice to receive it. Note.—This kind of jelly serves for the foundation of several others - for instance, it may be garnished with a Macédoine of fruits, with white raspberries, with currants, strawberries, peaches, or cherries; either is 462 JELLIES. of these fruits, when mixed with currant and raspberry jelly, prepared according to the foregoing directions, will make it most delicious. 1419. STRAWBERRY JELLY. Prox the stalks from two pottles of scarlet strawberries, put these — into a basin, and then pour one pint of clarified boiling syrup and half a pint of red-currant juice on to them; cover them down with a sheet of paper, tightly twisted round the edges of the basin, and allow the infusion to stand in a cool place until it becomes cold; then, filter it through a beaver jelly bag in the usual way, and when the whole has run through perfectly bright, mix it with two ounces of clarified isinglass, and set the jelly in a mould, immersed in rough 1ce. Note.—This jelly should be garnished with a pottle of fine “ British Queen” strawberries. 1420. CHERRY JELLY. Pick the stalks from two pounds of Kentish cherries and-a handful of red currants, and pound them in the mortar in order to bruise the stones and kernels; then take them up and place them in a small pre- serving pan, with one pound of fine loaf-sugar and half a pint of spring- water; set this to boil on the stove-fire for about five minutes, taking care to remove the scum as it rises to the surface: the whole must then be poured into a beaver jelly-bag, and filtered in the usual way. The juice should next be mixed with two ounces of clarified isinglass, and poured into a mould imbedded in rough ice. ‘The jelly may be garnished with cherries from which the stones must be removed. 1421. MULBERRY JELLY. TuIs is prepared in the same way as strawberry jelly (No. 1419). 1422. MACEDOINE OF FRUITS. Tuis may be made with every kind of jelly, which should be mixea with a variety of the most delicate fruits in season: these should be arranged with taste, so as to show their forms and colours to the best advantage. The fruits most appropriate for this purpose are peaches, nectarines, apricots, all kinds of plums, strawberries, raspberries, mulberries, red, white, and black currants, cherries, pears, oranges, pomegranates, grapes, &c. 1423. ORANGE JELLY, GARNISHED WITH QUARTERS OF ORANGES PEEL six oranges with a sharp knife, leaving the transparent pulp quite bare; divide each into six, cutting the orange lengthwise, thus giving an angular form to the pieces; put these into a small preserving pan, with a pint of clarified syrup, and set the whole to boil on the stove-fire for not more than two minutes, then pour the pieces of oranges and their syrup into a basin, and set them aside in a cool place. Prepare about a pint of bright orange jelly in the manner - directed in No. 1412, using the syrup from the pieces of oranges, which must be drained upon a sieve for that purpose. Next, imbed a plain mould in some pounded rough ice contained in an earthen pan, and proceed to garnish it with the pieces of oranges and the jelly, ee JELLIES. 463 ae first pouring a little jelly on the bottom of the mould, then, when the - jelly is set, arrange a layer of the pieces of oranges upon. it in close circular order, one resting upon another; pour sufficient jelly upon these to reach their surface, and when this has become firm, place another layer of oranges upon it, and so on, until the mould is filled. © 1424. MARASCHINO JELLY. To one pint of clarified syrup, add two ounces of clarified isinglass, the filtered juice of two lemons, and a gill and a half of genuine maraschino; pour this into a jelly-mould ready set in rough ice. Note—Jellies flavoured with noyeau, kirschen-wasser, Dantzic brandy, cedratti, and all other kinds cf liqueurs, when made with isinglass, are prepared as the above. 1425. VARIEGATED JELLY, A LA VICTORIA. PreparE some jelly, with Dantzic brandy (sometimes named “ gold-and-silver-water’’). Parboil and remove the skin from six ounces of pistachios, and shred each kernel into six strips. Set a jelly- mould in some pounded rough ice contained in a pan, pour a little of the jelly into the bottom of the mould, and then strew some of the prepared pistachios in it; when this has become firm, pour in a little more of the jelly and strew a few of the pistachios in it; as these layers become set, repeat the same until the mould is filled, and allow the jelly to remain imbedded in the ice for a sufficient time to congeal it properly. 1426. PANACHEE* JELLY. Tis may be prepared with any kind of light-coloured jelly, which must be divided into two equal parts: add a few drops of cochineal to one half, and leave the remainder plain. Then, imbed the mould in rough ice, pour enough of the pink jelly into the mould to reach about a quarter of an inch up the sides, and when this has become set, pour as much of the plain jelly upon it; when this has congealed, repeat another layer of the pink jelly, and go on alternating the dif- ferent coloured layers of jelly until the mould is filled. The design for this kind of jelly may be varied according to taste, by attending to the following directions :—. _ Fill two small plain moulds with different coloured jelly, such as pink and white noyeau, or amber and very light pink-orange jelly, and when these are become firm, turn the jellies out of their respective moulds upon a clean napkin. Next, imbed a plain mould in some rough ice, and then cut the different coloured jellies into strips, or any kind of fancy shaped ornaments, which must be so managed as to admit of their being fitted into each other, thus entirely covering the bottom of the mould with the design so formed; a little of the jelly must first be.poured at the bottom of the mould, to cause the decoration toadhere together. The sides of the mould should then be ornamented by placing alternate strips of the different jellies“sn a perpendicular * Derived from another French word, panache, a plume—a graceful feather. This jelly first received its name at the perfod of the first French revolution, when it was customary for the representatives of the French people to wear a tri coloured [lume m their hats. 464 KUSSIAN JELLIES. position, and these must first be dipped in a little liquid jelly. The mould being lined according to the foregoing directions, the hollow may be filled up with either a Macédoine jelly of fruits, with any kind of cream, or with the remainder of the same, so arranged in it as to bave the appearance of marble when cut. 1427. RUSSIAN JELLY Pur about two-thirds of either of the fore-mentioned kinds of jelly into a basin, partially imbedded in rough ice, then whip the jelly with a whisk, until it assumes the appearance of a substantial froth, and begins to thicken ; it must then be immediately poured into a mould, and kept in ice until required to be served. 1428. PUNCH JELLY. Pur the prepared stock from four calves’-feet into a stewpan, to melt on the stove-fire ; then withdraw it, and add thereto the follow- ing ingredients :—T'wo pounds of loaf-sugar, the juice of six lemons and four oranges, the rind of one Seville orange and of four lemons, half a nutmeg, twelve cloves and two sticks of cinnamon, a small cup of strong green tea, a pint of rum, half a pint of brandy, and a glass of arrack. Stir these well together, then add six whites and two whole eggs whipped up with a little sherry and spring-water, and continue whisking the punch on a brisk stove-fire until it begins to simmer, then set it down by the side of the fire, and cover the stew- pan with its lid contaming some live embers of charcoal ; about ten minutes after, pour the jelly into a flannel or beaver filtering-bag, keep pouring the jelly back into the bag until it becomes quite clear and bright, and when the whole has run through, set it in a mould in ice in the usual way. ; 1429. ORANGES FILLED WITH TRANSPARENT JELLY, Srrect half a dozen oranges without specks on the rind, make a hole at the stalk-end with a circular tin cutter, about half an inch in diameter, and then use a small teaspoon to remove all the pulp and loose pith from the interior; when this is effected, soak the oranges in cold water for about an hour, then introduce the spoon through the aperture, and scrape the insides smooth, and after ricing them again in cold water, set them to drain on a cloth. Next, stop up any holes that may have been made in them while scooping out the pulp, and set the oranges in some pounded rough ice contained in a deep sautapan ; fill three of them with bright pink-orange jelly, and the remainder with plain jelly. When the jelly has become firm, wipe the oranges with a clean cloth, cut each into four quarters, dish them up tastefully on an ornamental pastry-stand, or upon a napkin, and send to table. NVote.—Lemons may be prepared in the same way as the above. 1429a, LEMONS FILLED WITH JELLY A LA BELLEVUE. THESE are to be prepared in this instance as directed in tho recedirg article; and are afterwards to be filled with alternate ayers of lemon-jelly and Blanc-manger. Cut them up in the same way as oranges. SS 465 CREAMS, COMPRISING Blane-Mangzr. Pistachio Cream. Maraschino Bavarian Cream. Italian ditto. Strawberry ditto. _ Russian Charlotte. Apricot ditto. Celestine Strawberry Cream. Coffee Cream. Currant and Raspberry transparent Chocolate ditto. Cheese. Burnt ditto. Apricot Cheese, d la Chantilly. Orange-flower ditto. 1430. BLANC-MANGER. Parsoit twelve ounces of Jordan, and two ounces of bitter almonds, in a quart of water for about two minutes ; dram them ona sieve, remove the skins, and wash them in cold water ; after they have been soaked in cold water for half an hour, pound them in a mortar with four ounces of sugar, until the whole presents the appearance of 2 soft paste. This must then be placed in a large basin, with twelve ounces of loaf sugar, and mixed with rather more than a pint of spring water; cover the basin with a sheet of paper, twisted round the edges, and allow the preparation to stand in a cool place for about an hour, in order to extract the flavour of the almonds more effectually. The milk should then be strained off from the almonds through a napkin, with pressure, by wringing it at both ends. Add two ounces of clari- fied isinglass to the milk of almonds, pour the blanc-manger into a mould imbedded in rough ice, and when set quite firm, turn it out on its dish with caution, after having first dipped the mould in warm water. 1431. MARASCHINO BAVARIAN CREAM. Wair a pint of double cream, until it presents somewhat of the appearance of snow, taking care not to overdo it, as it would then produce butter. When the cream is whipped, add one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, a gill and a half of genuine maraschino, the juice of a lemon, and four ounces of pounded sugar; mix these well together, and pour the cream into a mould, previously very slightly oiled inside with oil of sweet almonds; set the cream in rough ice, and when it has become firm, turn it out on its dish. The mould having been oiled prevents the necessity of dipping this delicate cream in warm water, previously to turning it out. This kind of cream may also be flavoured with all kinds of liqueurs ; also with the essences of orange, lemon, orange-fiowers, vanilla, roses, and bitter almonds. | 1432. STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. Prox the stalks from a pottle of scarlet strawberries, and bruise them in a basin with six ounces of pounded sugar; rub this through a sieve, and mix it with a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass; pour the cream into a mould, previously 20 466 CREAMS. oiled with oil of sweet almonds, set it in rough ice, and when it has become firm, turn it out on its dish. Note.—Raspberries, mulberries, currants and raspberries, may be prepared for making Bavarian creams, by following the above directions. 1433. APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM. Sprit a dozen ripe apricots, and remove the stones; place the pieces in a small preserving-pan, with twelve ounces of pounded sugar, and a gill of spring water, then stir them on the fire and let them boil, until the fruit is entirely dissolved; this purée must then be rubbed through a clean hair-sieve into a large basin, and mixed with a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isin- glass ; pour the cream into an oiled mould, and set it in rough ice, in the usual way. This sort of cream may be prepared with all kinds of plums, instead of apricots. 1434. COFFEE CREAM. Roast eight ounces of Mocha coffee-berries in a small preserving- pan over a stove fire, stirring it the whole time with a wooden spoon, until it assumes a light-brown colour; then blow away the small _burnt particles, and throw the roasted coffee into a stewpan contain- ing a pint of boiling milk or cream, put the lid on the stewpan, and set it aside to allow the infusion to draw out the flavour of the coffee. Next, strain this through a napkin into a stewpan, containing eight yolks of eggs and twelve ounces of sugar, add a very small pinch of salt, stir the cream over the stove-fire until it begins to thicken, then quicken the motions of the spoon, and when the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set, strain the cream through a tammy or sieve into a large basin. Mix half a pint of whipped cream and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass in with this, pour the whole into a mould ready set in rough ice for the purpose, and when the cream has become firm, dip the mould in warm water, and turn the cream out on its dish. 1435. CHOCOLATE CREAM. Grate eight ounces of vanilla chocolate, put this into a stewpan with eight ounces of sugar, eight yolks of eggs, and a pint of cream ; stir the whole over a stove-fire until the preparation begins to thicken ; and the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set without allowing them to curdle, strain the cream through a tammy, with pressure, into a basin ; add half a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, mix the whole well together, and pour it into a mould, pre- viously imbedded in rough ice, to receive it. 14386. BURNT CREAM. Put two ounces of pounded sugar into a stewpan, with the grated rind of two lemons; stir these with a wooden spoon over a slow fire, until the sugar begins to assume a rather light-brown colour; then pour in a pint of cream, add to this eight ounces of sugar, eight yolks of eggs, and a little salt, and stir the whole over a stove-fire until the a a ——* CREAMS. 467 eggs are set; then strain the cream through a tammy into a large _ basin, and mix in with it half a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass. Pour the cream into a mould im- bedded in rough ice. 1437. ORANGE-FLOWER CREAM. Por two ounces of candied orange-flowers into a stewpan, with two ounces of pounded sugar; stir these over a slow fire until the sugar is merely melted, and pour in a pint of cream, adding eight ounces of sugar, eight yolks of eggs, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and a very little salt; stir this preparation over the fire to set the yolks of eggs, and then strain the cream through a tammy into a basin; add half a pint of whipped cream and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass to it, mix well together, and then pour the cream into a mould imbedded in rough ice. Note.—The flavouring of this kind of cream may be varied according to taste, by substituting lemon, orange, vanilla, cinnamon and lemon, or any other kind of essence or. liqueur, for the foregoing. 1438. PISTACHIO CREAM. Pazrszoin eight ounces of pistachio kernels for two minutes in boil- ing water; then remove the skin, wash and wipe the kernels, and pound them in a mortar with six ounces of sugar and a dessert-_ spoonful of orange-flower water; rub the whole through a fine hair- sieve, and place it in a large basin. Add to the pounded pistachios a spoonful of the green extract of spinach (No. 285), a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass ; mix well toge- ther, pour the cream into an oiled mould, and then set it in ice in the usual way. 1439. ITALIAN CREAM. Por eight yolks of eggs into a stewpan with four ounces of ratafias, eight ounces of sugar, the grated rind of an orange, a small stick of cinnamon, a wine-glassful of curacao, and a pint of cream; stir this over a stove-fire, in order to set the yolks of eggs in it, and then strain it through a tammy intoa basin. Add thereto half a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, and after having well mixed the whole together, pour it into a mould ready imbedded in rough ice to receive it. 1440. RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE. Trim about six ounces of finger-biscuits perfectly straight, so as to make them fit closely to one another, and lme the bottom and sides of a plain mould with these; then fill the interior of the charlotte with any one of the foregoing creams. ‘The same kinds of fruit as are used for making a Macédoine jelly may be introduced in the cream. 1441. CELESTINA STRAWBERRY CREAM. {wep a jelly-mould, or plain charlotte-mould, in some rough ice contained in an earthen pan; line the bottom and sides of the mould with picked strawberries: which must first be dipped in some per- fectly-cold liquid jelly ; then fill the interior of this kind of charlotte with some strawberry-cream, prepared for the purpose. erat 2 468 APRICOT CHEESE. 144la. CREAM A LA ROMAINE. Brancu four ounces of Jordan almonds with one ounce of bitter almonds, and when freed from their hulls, washed and wiped dry, let them be chopped rather fine. Next, place them in a sugar-boiler and stir them over a stove-fire with a wooden spoon until they have ,acquired a very light-brown colour; these almonds should now be thrown into a pint of milk that has been kept boiling for the pur- pose; to this add six ounces of sugar and eight yolks of eggs, and stir the whole quickly over the fire until the yolks are set; when the cream must be immediately removed from the fire, and stirred for a few minutes longer, previously to its being rubbea through a tammy like a purée. The produce will present a light fawn- coloured thick cream; this must be mixed first, with rather better than an ounce of clarified isinglass, and then, three gills of whipped cream are to be lightly yet well incorporated. Pour the cream intc a mould, and set it in ice as usual. 14410. CREAM A LA CHATEAUBRIAND. Sur a jelly-mould in ice, and then proceed to ornament the bottom and sides with blanched almonds that have been split and well soaked to whiten them, each being first dipped in some rather strong and perfectly colourless jelly, previously to its being stuck to the sides of the mould. When the mould is thus ornamented, pour some of the same jelly into it, and by gently and gradually moving the mould round (side-ways) in the ice, cause the jelly to form a thin coating over the almonds. When the latter part of the process is satis- factorily effected, proceed to effect another coating about the third of an inch thick, with some pistachio cream (No. 1438); and wher this is firmly set, fill up the cavity with some cream @ la Homaine (No. 1441a). Note-—An infinite variety of creams, usually designated “ en surprise,’ may be thus produced by using two different preparations of different creams, such as currant and orange-flower, apricot and vanilla, peach and noyeau, chocolate and white coffee, &c. 1442. CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TRANSPARENT CHEESE. Prox the stalks from a quart of ripe red currants and a pottle of raspberries ; put these into a small preserving-pan with one pound of pounded sugar and a gill of water; stir the whole ona stove-fire and keep it boiling for about five minutes; remove the scum as it rises to the surface, and then rub the whole through a hair-sieve into a large basin; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, and then pour it into a jelly-mould, ready imbedded in rough ice to receive it. When this kind of cheese is set firm, dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, and turn the cheese out on its dish; fill the well or cylinder with some stiffly-whipped cream, and serve. 1443. APRICOT CHEESE, A LA CHANTILLY. Remove the stones from eighteen ripe apricots, and put them into a small preserving-pan with one pound of loaf sugar, and a gill of spring water; stir this on a brisk stove-fire, until the whole of the ee ee ee a ee ee ee ~ wae MINCE=MEAT. 469 fruit is entirely dissolved; and then rub it through a hair-sieve into a large basin; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, and fill a ete (ready imbedded in rough ice) with the preparation. en the cheese is set firm, turn it out on its dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream. Note.—These cheeses may be made of every kind of fruit before directed to be used for both jellies and creams; and also with pears, apples, and quinces. 1444. MINCE-MEAT. THorouGuuy cleanse four pounds of currants, and remove the stones from four pounds of raisins; cut up two pounds of candied citron, one pound of candied lemon, and one pound of orange-peel, into shreds, or very small dice ; remove the skin, and then chop four pounds of fresh beef-suet, and place this with the currants and the candied peel in an earthen pan; next chop the raisins with four pounds of peeled apples, and add them to the other ingredients. Trim away all the sinewy parts from eight pounds of roasted sirlein of beef, and chop all the lean of the meat quite fine; this will pro- duce about four pounds, which must also be placed in the pan. To the foregoing must now be added four pounds of moist sugar, four ounces of ground spice—consisting of nutmegs, cloves, and cimmamon in equal proportions, with the grated rind of twelve oranges, and of the same number of lemons; the whole must then be thoroughly mixed together, and pressed down to a level in the pan. Two bottles of brandy, and a like quantity of Madeira, sherry or port, should be poured into the mince-meat. Put the lid on the pan, place a cloth over it, and tie it down close, so as to exclude the air as much as possible, and also to prevent the Val Roe of the brandy, &c. The mince-meat should be kept in a cool place, and will be fit for use a fortnight after it is made. 1445. LEMON MINCE-MEAT. Bort four lemons till quite tender, then pound them in a mortar or chop them up while warm, adding to them two pounds of pounded — loaf sugar; let this stand till next day, then add two pounds of suet, two pounds of currants, one pound of raisins chopped, a little brandy, one ounce of mixed spice, and port wine, to taste, say half a pint of brandy and wine together. 1446. MINCE MEAT, A LA ROYALE. To equal proportions of roast-beef, raisins, currants, suet, candied citron, orange, lemon, spices and sugar, add a proportionate weight of stewed pears and preserved ginger, the grated rind of three dozen oranges and lemons, and also their juice, one bottle of old rum, one bottle of brandy, and two of old port, : 470 PEAR CHARLOTTE, 1447. APPLE CHARLOTTE To prepare this entremet in great perfection it is necessary that a erumb-loaf of close-made bread should be ordered two days previous for the purpose ; this, it must be owned, is not positively necessary ; therefore, in its stead, a stale quartern loaf may answer the purpose well enough. First of all, some apple marmalade must be prepared as follows :— Let two or three dozen apples be peeled, cored, sliced up, and placed in a stewpan with one pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, and some lemon-peel and cinnamon tied together; moisten with half a pint of water, place the lid on the stewpan, and then set the apples to boil sharp on a quick-stove until they are melted. You then remove the lid, and with a wooden spoon continue stirring the marmalade over a brisk fire until it is reduced to a rather stiff consistency. A plain round charlotte-mould must now be lined at the bottom with small thin circular pieces of bread, dipped in clarified butter, and placed so as to overlap each other until the bottom of the mould is well covered. Next, cut some oblong-squares of thin bread, also dipped in clarified butter, and set these up the sides of the mould overlapping each other—in order that they may be thus enabled to hold firmly to the sides of the mould. Fill the cavity with the apple- marmalade, cover in the top with a thin circular piece of bread dipped in butter, place the charlotte on a baking-sheet, and bake it in a rather brisk oven, of a light colour; and when done, turn it out on to its disk, glaze it on the top with sifted sugar and a red-hot salamander ; pour some diluted apricot-jam round the base, and serve. | 3 1448. APPLE CHARLOTTE, ANOTHER WAY. 'nE apples in this case must be cut up thin, and placed in a deep sautapan containing three ounces of dissolved butter, six ounces of — pounded sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and a pinch of cinnamon powder ; toss the whole over a stove-fire until the apples begin to melt their angies; then add a pound-pot of apricot-jam, toss the whole gently together, and place this preparation in the centre of a charlotte- mould, lined as directed in the foregoing article, and proceed in all other respects as therein prescribed. 1449, CHARLOTTE, A LA PARISIENNE. First, bake a thin sheet of Genoese, and when this has become thoroughly cold, proceed to cut it out into twenty-four oblong squares, measuring four inches long, by an inch wide; also about twelve half- moon or crescent shapes, of an equal size, in order that these may closely fit in with each other, so as to effectually cover the bottom of a, charlotte-mould ; a circular piece must also be prepared, with which — to finish the centre. All these pieces must be glazed over with icing prepared of two colours in equal numbers ; as, for instance, one-half being pink, amber, green, or chocolate; while the other half is to be white. ‘With the foregoing, line the mould, and then fill the centre with any kind of cream described at No. 1481 and following numbers. 1450. PEAR CHARLOTTE, A L’ALLEMANDE. _PuEL, quarter,-and core a dozen baking-pears ; stew them in three pints of water with three quarters of a pound’ of sugar, some lemon- “0 an PEACHES, A LA RICHELIEU. 471 peel, and cinnamon, until done. The pears must then be drained "upon a sieve, and when comparatively dry, must be tossed in a sauta- pan with a pound-pot of red-plum or damson-jam, and used to fill in the centre of a bread-lined charlotie-mould, and then baked; and, on the charlotte being dished up, some honey, diluted with orange flower- water (warm), poured round the base, and sent to table. 1451. PEACH CHARLOTTE, A LA FRANQAISE. ABourT one dozen not over-ripe peaches, cut into quarters, skinned, and the kernels taken from the stones, should be placed in a sautapan with a pound-pot of peach-marmalade; the whole to be tossed over a stove-fire until the pieces of peach are just barely warmed through ; and with this preparation fill a lined charlotte-mould,—brioche being used for the purpose instead of bread. When this charlotte is sent to table, some currant-jelly, diluted with a glass of noyeau, should be . poured round the base. 1452. APRICOT CHARLOTTE. This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, substituting apricots for peaches, and apricot-marmalade for peach ditto; and, when the charlotte is turned out on to its dish, pour some honey, diluted with a liqueur called Ratafia d’abricdts round the base, and serve. 1453. CROUTES AUX PECHES. With the remains of Brioche, Compiégne, Konglaiif’, or Savarin cakes, cut some oblong shapes, about three inches long, by one inch wide ; sugar over, and glaze these with a heated salamander; then, spread each with some peach-jam, and, after having first made a ring on the dish with some of the jam, proceed to dish up these fingers, each resting upon the other, in the form of a high wreath; on the top of this, some halves of peaches (previously boiled for about three minutes © in syrup) must be closed, dressed ; and, having filled the hollow centre of the entremet with whipped cream, stick a feather of green angelica in the summit, decorate the pieces of peach with preserved cherries, raspberries, strawberries, or currant-jelly; pour some maraschino over the crusts and round the base, and serve. 1454. PEACHES, A LA RICHELIEU. Hat¥ a pound of rice boiled thoroughly tender in a quart of milk, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, seasoned with a stick of vanilla, and a pinch of salt ; which, when done, must be first worked together with a wooden spoon, and then, with. some of this, proceed to form a circular base about two inches high, in the imner part of the dish; and, on the outer part of this base, dress some peaches prepared as for a compote, in athick circle, each overlapping the other ; fill the centre of these with a piece of the prepared rice about three _ inches high, and upon this eminence build up a pyramid of peaches ; over the whole pour some strawberry jelly. Round the base of the entremét, place a border of preserved greengages ; stick a plume made of angelica on the summit, and finish by pouring some vanilla liqueur round the base. 472 ICED SOUFFLE. 1455. SUPREME OF FRUITS, A LA VICTORIA. For this purpose, some Genoese cake about an inch thick should be first prepared, and, out of this, three or four. graduated circular pieces should be cut; the largest, with which to form the basement, must be eight inches in diameter, the next six, the third four, and lastly finishing with a round piece an inch and a half in diameter; these being stuck one upon the other with some kind of fruit jam, will thus produce a kind of pyramid. Upon this elevation, closely connected rows of either peaches, apricots, pears, or apples, prepared. as for compotes, must be placed; finishing at the summit with a vase or cup formed out of apple or pear, and filled with a Macédoine of fruits. Mask the rows of fruit with some apricot jam, diluted with -maraschino; and with a paper cornet or biscuit-forcer, filled with whipped cream, ornament the base of the entremét in wave-like fashion, upon these place some plumed pieces of green angelica. 1456. POIRES COQUETTES. Axour twelve middle-sized pears of good quality must be turned smoothly in their own shape, and gently simmered in a little syrup until done. Some rice must be prepared as for a rice cake, which must be made rather stiff, and stemed in a plain border-mould; this, when done, must be turned out on to its dish, the pears are to be placed upright thereon in a circular row, and masked all over with diluted apricot-jam ; on the stalk-end place a Mirabelle plum, and through this a piece of green Angelica, so as to form the stalk ; fill the centre with some of the rice (reserved for this purpose), mixed with an equal quantity of whipped cream, at the summit of which a plume of green angelica must be stuck; ornament the base with a compote of green- gages, and serve. 1457. ICED SOUFFLE, WITH MARASCHINO. INGREDIENTS :—One pint of clarified syrup, twelve yolks of eggs, and two whole eggs, a large wine-glassful of maraschino. Mix the whole of the ingredients m an earthen basin; then pour the preparation into an egg-bowl that has been previously warmed with hot water and wiped dry ; whisk the souffé briskly (the ege-bowl being placed on a stove containing hot ashes) until it resembles a well-prepared firm sponge-cake batter. Next, fill a souffé-dish-lining with the whisked preparation to an inch or two above the rim, a band of: stout paper having been secured round the case with a pin or string, to prevent the preparation from flowing over. The souffle must now be placed in a circular tin box with a tight-fitting lid; the box to be immersed in pounded ice mixed with salt and half a pound of saltpetre well mixed, a wet cloth being placed over the top, and allowed to remain thus in ice for about three hours before it is served ; when previously to sending the soufié to table, the band of paper must be removed, and some sifted macaroon powder or grated chocolate eook over the surface, in order to give it the appearance of a baked souple. 1458. IcED SOUFFLE, AU CAFE. THIs is prepared in exactly the same manner as the foregoing, with the exception that either a white infusion of coffee, or a small cup of aa SPONGADA DI TOLEDO. 4783 very strong coftee, made in the ordinary way, must be substituted for _ the maraschino. These souflés may be greatly varied by altering the flavour; using for that purpose any kind of liqueur, orange-flower-water, vanilla, orange, lemon, &c., &c., Ke. 1459. BISCUITS GLACES, Tue preparations described in the foregoing articles serve equally for this purpose ; small square, oblong, or round paper cases being filled with the same, and afterwards placed in a tin or zine box, made expressly for such purposes; and which may be easily obtained at small cost, either at Ravey’s, in Conduit street, or Temple’s, in Mot- comb street ; the only houses where culinary utensils are to be had in greatest perfection. ; | af 1460. LA SPONGADA DI ROMA. InG@REDIENntTs :—One pint of clarified syrup, six ounces of dissolved chocolate, a table-spoonful of vanilla sugar, an equal quantity of cinnamon sugar, four ounces of shred pistachios, two ounces of Diavolini, or ginger comfits, six whites of eggs. Mix the syrup, dissolved chocolate, the whites of eggs (previously — broken up with a fork in a basin), the vanilla and cinnamon sugars ; and, when these are well mixed together, let them be strained through a sieve, and poured into the freezing-pot, previously set with ice, &c., in a pail for the purpose. Next, let the freezing pot be worked or twirled round with the left hand, while the spongada is being at the same time worked with a spatula held in the right hand, bearing in mind that this method of working the ice, while it is being frozen, is requisite, in order to facilitate the addition of the fixed air, necessary to promote its lightness, and by means of which its volume is thus increased twofold. When the spongada has become firm, and at the same time light, the ginger comfits and the shred pistachios should be lightly mixed in with it; and immediately after, let the spongada be moulded in any kind of iced-pudding-mould; and after it has been properly immersed in rough ice prepared in the usual way, for about three hours, let the spongada be carefully turned out upon a napkin and served for a second-course remove. 1461. SPONGADA DI TOLEDO. InGREDIENTS :—Hight ounces of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter almonds, pounded with half a pint of water, and strained through a.sieve to produce half a pint of milk of almonds, one pint of strong clarified syrup, a wine-glassful of Kirschen-wasser, six whites of eggs, six ounces of burnt almonds, slightly bruised, and half a pint of cream whipped. Mix the milk of almonds, the syrup, whites of eggs, and the Kirschen-wasser well together, and strain them through a sieve into a freezing-pot ready set in ice, work this as directed in the preceding article, and when it has increased to twice its original quantity, let the bruised burnt a.monds and the whipped cream be lightly added in with the spongada. Mould as in the former case. A7A SPONGADA DI VENEZZA. | 1462. LA SPONGADA DI VENEZZA. First, line a spherical iced-pudding-mould with some apricot- water-ice, about the third of an inch thick; and then fill the cavity with the following preparation :— | First, scald and then peel eight ounces of pistachios and one ounce of bitter almonds, and pound these into a smooth paste in a mortar,— adding, by degrees, a gill of water ; and when thoroughly pounded, rub the produce through a tammy. Next, let the purée of pistachios be placed in a basin with a pint of syrup, a table-spoonful of orange-flower- water, ditto of spmach-green, and six whites of eggs that have been pressed through a tammy for the purpose; mix well together, and having poured the preparation into a ready-prepared freezing-pot, proceed immediately to work it as directed in the former cases; and when finished, use it to fill the bombe-shell; which, being completed, and the mould being effectually closed, must be immersed in ice for three hours previously to its being turned out for table. These spongadi are well qualified to form a rich variety of iced- at tie for the second course, and are capable of being greatly varied y introducing different kinds of flavouring; such as all kinds of liqueurs, essences, or pounded sugar impregnated with orange, lemon, vanilla, orange-flowers, cinnamon, bitter almonds, &c., &e. The body of the ice may also be altered by using purées of different kinds of fruits, instead ofthe milk of almonds or the purée of pistachios. 475 1. HOW TO PREPARE CAUDLE. Mix four ounces of Robinson’s Patent Groats with half a pint of cold ale, pour this into a stewpan containing a quart of hot ale, add a small piece of bruised ginger, a small stick of cinnamon, and six cloves; stir the caudle over the fire while gently boiling for ten minutes, and then strain it off free from the spices, into a jug; add sugar, and rum or brandy to taste. 29. ROYAL POSSET FOR A COLD. Mix a table-spoonful of Robinson’s Patent Groats with a wine-glass- ful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly half a pint of ordinary French white wine, sweeten with honey, flavour with a few drops of essence of cloves, or failing this, a few cloves will do; stir the posset over the fire while boiling for six minutes, and drink it quite hot just before going to bed. 3. HOW TO MAKE GRUEL. Take of Robinson’s Patent Groats, one table-spoonful mixed with a wine-glassful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly a pint of boiling water, stir the gruel on the fire while it boils for ten minutes; pour it into a basin, add a small pat of butter, and a pinch of salt; or if more agreeable, some sugar, and a small quantity of spirits may be added instead of the butter and salt. Note.—When gruel is made for an invalid, and if the constitution be delicate, the butter must be omitted. 4, A PUDDING FOR INFANTS. To two ounces of Robinson’s Patent Barley add one ounce of sifted sugar, half an ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and nearly a pint of milk : mix thoroughly, and stir it over the fire till it boils; then add twa yolks of eggs, and bake the pudding in a buttered pie-dish. 5, INFANT'S FOOD. To a good table-spoonful of Robinson’s Patent Barley mixed with a wine-glassful of cold water, add one and a half gills of boiling water; stir this over the fire while boiling for six minutes, and then feed the infant. The same proportion of milk may be used instead of water, when the baby is weaned. 6. SCOTCH PUDDING. To six ounces of Robinson’s Patent Barley add six ounces of sifted sugar, mix both together with one quart of milk in a stewpan, then 476 add four ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar, and a wine-glassful of whisky. Stir the whole on the fire untilit boils, and then work the batter perfectly smooth ; next, work in six yolks of eggs, and then lightly mix in six whites of eggs whisked into a firm froth: pour the batter into a slightly buttered pie-dish, and bake the pudding in moderate heat. 7. HOW TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER. Take of Robinson’s Patent Barley one ounce mixed with a wine- — glassful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly one quart of boiling water, stir this over the fire while boiling for five minutes; then flavour with a small bit of lemon-peel or cinna- mon, and sweeten according to taste. Note.—When the above Patent Barley is used to make a summer beverage, only half an ounce must be taken. 8. HOW TO PREPARE A SAVOURY CUSTARD. To one table-spoonful of Robinson’s Patent Barley add rather more than half a pint of good beef tea; mix and stir over the fire for five minutes, and you have a light yet invigorating kind of food for the debilitated stomach, which in its results will prove far more satisfac- — tory than any preparation known. Note.—This delicate custard may also be advantageously prepared with broths made from mutton, game, or poultry. = fT) FRANCATELLI'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVICE OF WINES, DENOTING THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY SHOULD BE DRUNK AT THE DINNER-TABLE. oe Oe THE judicious service of wines at the dinner-table is essential to the complete success of a well-ordered and recherché dinner; for on the manner and order in which this service is conducted will chiefly depend the more or less favourable judgment awarded (in- dependently of their real claims to superiority) to the wines put. before the guests. First, let it be remembered that all possible care should be taken in removing the bottles from their bins, and afterwards also, in handling them for the purpose of drawing the corks, and decanting the wines, not to disturb any deposit that may exist in the bottles, for that deposit, if shaken, destroys not only the brilliancy of the wine, but impairs its flavour and bouquet. The different kinds of Sherries, Ports, Madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines in general, are the better for having been decanted several hours before being drunk. During winter their aroma is improved by the temperature of the dining-room acting upon their volatile properties for an hour or so before dinner-time. By paying due attention to this part of the process, all the mellow- ness which good wines acquire by age, predominates to the delight of the epicure’s grateful palate. The lighter wines, such as Bor- deaux, Burgundy, and most of the wines of Italy, should be most carefully handled, and decanted an hour only before dinner-time. In winter, the decanters should be either dipped in warm water or else placed near the fire, to warm them, for about ten minutes previously to their being used. In summer, use the decanters without warming them, as the genial warmth of the atmosphere will be all-sufficient, not only to prevent chilling the wines, but to develop their fragrant bouquet. Moreover, let these, and all delicate wines, be brought into the dining-room as late as may be consistent with convenience. And now, as regards the order in which wines should be served during dinner :—I would recommend all bon vivants desirous of test- ing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of wines, to bear in mind that they should be drunk in the following order: viz.— When it happens that oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne is their most proper accompaniment: genuine old Madeira, or East India Sherry, or Amontillado, proves a wel- come stomachic after soup of any kind,—not excepting turtle,— 478 FRANCATELLI’S INSTRUCTIONS FOR after eating which, as you value your health, avoid all kinds of — punch—especially Roman punch. During the service of fish, cause any of the following to be handed round to your guests :—Amon- tillado, Hock, Tisane Champagne, Pouilly, Meursault, Sauterne, Arbois, vin de Grave, generally all kinds of dry white wines. : With the entrées, any of the following wines may be introduced ; vizZ.— BORDEAUX. Saint Julien. Leoville. Laroze. Haut-Brion. Chateau-Lafitte. Chateau-Margaux. Mouton-Lafitte. Latour. Médoc. Saint Emilion. Saint Estephe. SECOND-COURSE WINES. Pommard. Volnay. Nuits. Richebourg. Clos-Vougeot. Romanée-Oonti. Chambertin. Saint Georges. Pouilly. Meursault. Saint Perray. Vin de Grave. Sauterne. Barsac. Langon. Bouzy. Versy. Volnay mousseux. Veuve Cliquot. Muscat-Frontignan. Muscat-Lunel. Muscat-Rivesalte. Grenache. Vin de paille. Malaga. Rota. Alicante. RED CHAMPAGNES. Montrachet, Chateau-Grillé, Barsac, and BURGUNDY, &e. Macon. Moulin-a-vent, Thorins. Beaune, Chassagne, Pale and brown Sherries. Amontillado. Bucellas. Mancinillo. RED WINES. Rhenish wines (red). Ermitage. Hermitage. Tavel. Roussillon. Chateau neuf du Pape. Céte-rétie. 5 Jurancon. Monté-Fiascone. Monté-Pulcianc. | Vino di Pasta. WHITE WINES. AY pétillant, Carbonnieux. Champagnes. Champagne. Sillery. Sparkling Mosells,. DESSERT WINES. Madeira. Malmsey Madeira. Syracuse. Tokay. Constance. Carcavallos. Picoli. Schiras, = i 3 P or | ~~ io a THE SERVICE OF WINES. 479 A question of the highest importance, but into which I may but _briefly enter, is to determine to which of all these wines a decided reference should be given, both with regard to taste, and also in respect to their influence on the health of different temperaments. It is easier to settle the latter part of the question than the former, jnasmuch as it is diffictilt, not to say impossible, to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate. Thus there are some who delight in the perfumed yet austere bouquet of Bordeaux, while others prefer the delicate fragrance of Champagne; some give the palm to the generous and mirth-inspiring powers of Burgundy; while the million deem that Madeira (when genuine), Port, and Sherry, from what are termed their generous natures, ignoring the plentiful admixture of alcohol, are the only wines worthy of notice. All these tastes are no doubt well enough founded on good and sufii- cient reasons, and may prove safe indicators for the preservation of health :—for instance, a person of sanguine temperament feels a necessity for a light sapid wine, such as genuine Champagnes and Rhenish wines; while the phlegmatic seek those of a more spirit- uous, generous nature—Burgundy, Port, Madeira, or Sherry. ‘Those who are a prey to spleen—lowness of spirits—melancholy—are prone to select, as a sure and pleasant remedy for their frightful ailments, the wines of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Roussillon, and Burgundy. The bilious, who generally are blessed with a good appetite, provided always that they do not smoke, require a generous wine, which, while capable of acting both as an astringent and a dissolvent of the bile, is of facile digestion; such are the properties of all first- class Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux is said to be a cold wine; this false notion arises out of mere prejudice—nothing can be more contrary to truth: this health-restoring wine, as I have already stated, is of easy digestion, and possesses, moreover, the advantage of being very considerably less inebriating than any other first-class wine. In short, Burgundy is exciting, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux stomachic. It now remains to show the order in which the several sorts of wines, enumerated above, should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. It is generally admitted by real gourmets, that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines,—those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is, to com- mence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrées, any of the following Burgundy wines :—Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Ver- manton, Irancy, Mercurey, Chassagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Macon and Auxerre: these may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency: these again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanée. With the second course, roasts and dressed vegetables, and savoury entremeis, honour your guests by graciously ‘ 480 INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVICE OF WINES. ushering to their notice sparking Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumiéres, the brilliant Sillery, the glorious ~ Hermitage, Céte-rétie, and Chateau-Grille. : With the service of the entremets de douceur—or, as we have it, the sweets—let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne or Moselle he handed round; but far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of Ai pétillant, Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey, Madeira, and Hast India Sherry. So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country, that it would be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further” than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner. And what shall be said with respect to the class of wines best adapted to make their appearance on the table after dinner? Why simply this; if you have done reasonable honour to some of the good things which I will suppose your table to have been supplied with, pray let the wine alone for the present, and order up the coffee—hot, strong, and bright! Let it be made with pure — picked overland Mocha,— fresh roasted pale — coarsely ground,—and pray do forbid your housekeeper to. clarify it with ege; but tell her to use a bit of genuine Russian isinglas, not the spurious filth made from all sorts of abominations, and sold at most Italian warehouses under the name of isinglas. The Cafetiére a la Dubelloy, or one of Adams’ Percolators, is best adapted for making good coffee without the trouble or necessity for clarifying it. And as to liqueurs? ‘Try Hau de vie d’Andaye, Haude la Grande Chartreuse, or ten-year-old Cognae. Before I take my leave of you, dear reader, let me here acknow- ledge how much I feel indebted to the press generally for the - flattering notices of my ‘‘ Cook’s Guide,” which in a great measure ~ through such favourable introduction has, in the short space of six months, gone through three large editions. And as I now write at “the wee hour beyont the twal,” as the Scots say, and we have entered on a new year, I will wish you all good fortune, and that you may possess the means of enjoying the delectable wines we have passed in review, and a dinner dressed by an Aberlin, a Brinet-Montrose, a Jules Magdelin, a Georges Comte, a Sédille, or a Valentin :—and then, indeed, you will be of the most fortunate on this globe. C. E. FRANCATELLI. Boyne Terrace, Notting Hiil, January, 1862. a ca 481 1, CLARET CUP. Ingredients :—One bottle of Clarot, one pint bottle of German Seltzer-water, a small bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, one orange cut in slices, half a cucumber sliced thick, a liqueur-glass of Cognac, and one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug well immersed in rough ice, stir all together with a silver spoon, and when the cup has been iced for about an hour, strain or decanter it off free from the herbs, &c. | 2. BADMINTON CUP. Ingredients :—One bottle of red Burgundy, one quart of German | Seltzer-water, the rind of one orange, the juice of two, a wine-glass of Curacao, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, a sprig of verbina, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy, a few slices of cucumber. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for about an hour previously to its being required for use, and afterwards decanter the cup free from the herbs, &e. 3. CHAMPAGNE CUP. ' Ingredients :—One bottle of Champagne, one quart bottle of German Seltzer-water, two oranges sliced, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for an hour and a quarter previously to its being required for use, and then decanter it free from the herbs, &c. 4, SAUTERNE CUP. Ingredients :—One bottle of Sauterne, one pint of Vichy-water, two oranges sliced, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in ice for an hour and a quarter previously to the cup being required for use, and then decanter it. 5. MOSELLE CUP. Ingredients :—-One bottle of sparkling Moselle, one quart of German Seltzer-water, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, two oranges sliced, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for an hour and a quarter previously to the cup being required for use, and then decanter it free from the herbs, &c. Zi 4020s a ‘THE MODERN COOK. 6. PINE-APPLE CUP. - agi Ingredients :—Eight ounces of pine-apple sliced very thin, one © bottle of Ai wine, a sprig of verbina, a wine-glassfull of Maraschino, one quart bottle of double soda-water, one ounce of bruised sugar- candy. Process :—Thoroughly embed the wine and the soda-water in rough ice for an hour previously to its being required for use; and then, first place the slices of pine-apple, the verbina, the Maraschino, and the sugar-candy in a glass jug, and afterwards add thereto the iced wine and soda- water. 7. CHABLIS CUP. Ingredients :—One bottle of Chablis, one pint of German Seltzer- water, one bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, one orange sliced, one — ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for an hour and a quarter previously toits being required for use, and then decanter the cup free from the herbs, &c. 8. BEER CUP. Ingredients :—One quart of stout or porter, half an ounce of moist sugar, a small slice of bread toasted brown, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg and ginger. Mix these ingredients in a jug and allow the cup to steep for half an hour previously to its being drank. . Note.—Ale cup is made in a similar manner. These cups are more particularly adapted for being handed round with cheese. CYDER CUP. Ingredients :—One quart of Cyder, one pint of German Seltzer- — water, a small glass of Cognac, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, a sliced orange, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place the ingredients in a covered jug embedded in ice for an hour and a quarter, and then decanter the cup free from herbs, &c. . Jote.—Any other aérated water may be substituted for Seltzer, or the cup may be prepared without the addition of any water. PERRY CUP. This is prepared in the same manner as Cyder cup, substituting, of course, Perry for Cyder. ee ee ee A SERIES OF BILLS OF FARE | FOR EVERY MONTH THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. DINNER FoR 6 PrEnsons. January. Julienne soup. 1 F “sh. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. Fowl] and rice. [2 Removes. ] Roast leg of Welsh mutton, 2 Entrées : Salmis of partridges, @ l’anciénne. Fricandeau with purée of sorrel. SEconD Course. Roast snipes. 3 Entreméts : Spinach with cream. Blanc-manger. Apples a la Portuguaise, Dinnez FOR 6 Persons. January. Palestine soup. 1 Fish. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. Roast grisken of pork, with apple (2 Removes.] Braized pheasant, with cabbages. sauce. 2 Entrées: Patties of chicken, a la Béchamel. Mutton cutlets sautées, with purée of potatoes. SECOND COURSE. Roast Hare. 3 Entreméts : Fried salsifis in batter. Apricot puffs. Orange jelly. 912 484 BILLS OF FARE DrnnrR ror G Persons. January. Ox-tail clear soup. 1 Fish, Broiled Herrings, with mustard sauce. Snipe pudding, &@la D’Orsay. [2 Removes.] Roast saddle of mutton. 2 Entrees: Blanquette of fowl with mushrooms. Scollops of beef, & la Napolitaine. SrconD Course. Roast Pheasant. 3 Entreméts: Brussels-sprouts, & la créme. Meringues, with cream. Pears and rice, & la Condé. DiInnER FOR 6 PERSONS. January. Vermicelli soup, & la Windsor, 1 Fish, Turbot, with lobster sauce. Boiled neck of mutton, with [2 Removes.] Partridges, & la Séville. mashed turnips. 2 Entrées: Fillets of rabbits, & la Maréchale. Fricassee of chicken, in a border of rice. SECOND COURSE. Roast wild duck. 8 Entreméts: Jerusalem artichokes, & l’Espagnole. Custards in glasses. Tourte of apples, & la Cobourg. Dinner FoR 6 Persons. January. Jardiniére clear soup. 1 Fish. Whitings au gratin, Roast neck of venison. [2 Removes.] Braized pheasant, with Soubise sauce, 2 Entrées: Quenelles of fowl, & l’essence. Tendons of veal, with a purée of spinach. Seconp Course. Roast larks. _ 38 Entreméts: _Brown-oread pudding, & la Gotha (preserved cherries), Turnips glacés, & l’Espagnole Apple fritters. FOR JANUARY. 485 Dinnerz FoR 10 Persons. January. Bisque of lobster Soup. 1 Fish. Crimpt cod, with oyster sauce, garnished with fried smeite. Patties, & la Monglas, 2 Removes. - Roast turkey, & la Périgord. Braized ham with spinach. 2 Entrées: Fat livers, & la Financitre. Fillets of partridges, & la Lucullus. —_—_—— + Seconp CourRsE Roast black-cock. | 2 Roasts. ] Roast Teal. 1 Remove. Soufflé of apples, a la Vénitienne. 4 Entreméts : Mecca loaves, with apricot. Braized celery. Ttalian cream. Macaroni au gratin. Dinner For 10 Persons. January. Purée of grouse, & la Condé. 1 Fish. Soles & la Matelotte Normande. Boiled Poulard with Nouilles. [2 Removes. | Roast saddle of mutton. Croquettes of oysters, 2 Entrées: ‘ lanquette of pheasant and trafiles. Cutlets of purk, Robert sauce. ——— SEconD CourRSE. Partridges. [2 Roasts. | Woodcocks. 1 Remove. foudu.of Parmesan Cheese. 4 Entreméts. Apples & la creme. Seakale & la Béchamel. Pethiviers cakes. Puuch-jelly. 486 BILLS OF FARE Dinner FoR 10 Persons. January. Giblet soup, clear. Baked haddock. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of soles au gratin. Capon, & la Chipolata, [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of mutton, 4 l Anglaise. Oyster patties. 2 Entrées: LGoudins of pheasant, ala d’Artois. | Mutton cutlets, &la Russe. SECOND COURSE. Lobster, au gratin. [2 Roasts.] Widgeon. 4 Entreméts: Filbert-cream tartlets. Pears & la Condé. Noyeau-jelly. Cardoons, & 1’Espagnole. Dinner For 10 Persons. January, Soup, & la Julienne. 1 Fish, Turbot, with lobster and Dutch sauces. Fowls, & la Macédoine. [2 Removes. ] Fillet of Beeflarded, 4 la Financiére Patties, & la Reine. 2 Entrées: Salmis of snipes, with truffles. Fillets of pigeons, & la de Luynes. SECOND CouRSE. Roast Hare. [2 Roasts. ] Savariu, with cherries. 4 Entreméts : ' Spinach, with créutons. Orange-jelly, in smail baske Charlotte & la Parisiénne. Profitrolles au chocolat. ¥OR JANUARY. 487 DinnER FOR 12 Persons. January. - Soup & la Xavier. [2 Soups.] Purée of fowl, & la Reine. Fried smelts, with Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.) Crimped cod, & la créme au gratin Braized ham, garnished with Brus- [2 Removes.] Roast loin of veal. & la Monglas. sels-sprouts. 4 Entrees, Fillets of partridges, & la de Luynes. Kromeskys of lobsters, 4 la Russe. Mutton cutlets, & la Soubise. Scollops of fowls, with trufiles. SeconD CoursE. Widgeon. [2 Roasts. ] Woodcocks. Fondu of Parmesan. | 2 Removes. | Iced pudding, & la Cintra. 6 Entreméts : Italian salad. Punch jelly. Mushrooms, & la Provengale. Damson tartlets. Apples and rice plain, with apricot jam. Mecca loaves, with raspberry jam. Dinner FOR 12 Persons. January. Flemish clear soup. [2 Soups.) Mock turtle. Soles in Norman matelotte. [2 Fishes.] Haddocks, with egg sauce, Pheasants & la Dauphinoise. [2 Removes. ] Roast saddle of mutton. 4 Entrées: Oyster patties. Boudins of fowl, & la Richelieu. Salmis of woodcocks, & l’anciénne. Scollops of sweetbreads, & la Villeroi, SECOND COURSE. Larks. [2 Roasts.] Roast Capon. Ginger pudding. [2 Removes. ] Soufflé of arrow-root. 6 Entreméts : fraized celery, & l’essence. Charlotte of apples. Macaroni au gratin. D’ Artois of strawberry jam. Maraschino ielly. {talian cream. 488 BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 12 Persons. January. : Macaroni clear soup. [2 Soups.] Purée of carrots, & la Crécy. Fillets of whitings, & la Royale. [2 Fishes.] Johu-dory, with Dutch sauce, Braized fillet of beef, with Madeira [2 Removes. ] Poulards, & la Périgeux. sauce. 4 Entrees: Boudins of pheasant, 4 la Reine. Fillets of pigeons, & la D’Uxelles. Mutton cutlets, & la Bourguignotte. Marrow patties, with fine-herbs sauce, SEcoND CouRSE. Teal. [2 Roasts, | Hare. Brown-bread soufflé. [2 Removes.] Ramequins, & la Sefton. 6 Entreméts : Salsifis & la créme. Vol-au-vent of greengages Potatoes au gratin. Noyeau cream. Lemon jelly. Pithiviers cakes. Dinner FoR 12 Persons. January. Soup, a la Colbert. [2 Soups.] Purée of pheasant, & la Chasseur. Torbay soles, with lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of gurnets, & la Maitre d’ hotel. Roast turkey, i la Financiére. [2 Removes.] Baked ham, with Madeira sauce. 4 Entrées : Mutton cutlets, & la Provencgale. Fillets of widgeon, Poivrade sauce. Bouchées of rabbit, & ia Pompadour. Croquettes of oysters, & la Béchamel. SEeconp. Course. Partridges [2 Roasts. | Black game. Iced pudding, & la Duchesse 12 Removes. | Pancakes soufflés. e Kent, ‘ 6 Entreméts Portugal onions glazed & l’Espagnole. Apple tartlets. Spinach aun jus. Meringue & Ja Parisiénne. Damson cheese & la Chantilly Eggs, a la neige, flavoured with obitek FOR JANUARY. 489 DINNER FOR 16 Persons. January. Julienne. [2 Soups. | Calf’s-feet, & la Windsor. Fillets of soles, & la Vénititnne. [2 Fishes.] Haddocks broiled. Dutch sauce. Capon, &la Toulouse. [2 Removes.| Rump of beef, & la Jardiniére. 6 Entrées: Créustades of ox-piths, & la Monglas, Mutton cutlets bread-crumbed. with a Border of rice garnished with a purée ‘purée of chestnuts. of pheasants. Fillets of fowls with truffles, Supréme Boudins of rabbit, & la D’ Artois. sauce. Salmis of widgeon, & la Bigarrade. SEconD CouRSE. Pheasants. [2 Roasts. | Snipes. Apricot Soufilée. [2 Removes. | Parmesan fritters. 8 Entreméts : Lobster salad. Kirschen-wasser jelly, Mushrooms, au gratin. Chocolate cream. Potatoes, & la maitre d’hétel. Pears, & la Condé. Brussels-sprouts sautés with butter. Darioles, & la Vanille. DinneER FoR 16 Persons. January. ' Purée of celery, & la créme. [2 Soups.] Quenelles of rabbit, in consommé, Filiets of soles, & 1a Dieppoise. [2 Fishes.] Baked pike, Piquante sauce. Calf’s-head, & la Tortue. [2 Removes.] Fowls with Nouilles, a1’ Allemande. 6 Entrées: Pork cutlets, & la Robert. Patties, & la Reine. Woodcocks, 2 la Monarque. Fillets of partridges, 4 la Maréchaie. Mince of chicken in a border, garnished § Sweetbreads larded, with endives with poached eggs. SeconD CouRSE, Hare. [2 Roasts. ] Wild ducks. Pancakes with apricot. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, a la Stanley. 8 Entreméts : Potato croquettes, 4 la Béchamel. Panachée jelly. Seakale, & I’Espagnole. Pine-apple cream. Crusts garnished with mushrooms. Pastafrolle cake, & la Napolitaine. Lobster, au gratin. Tourte of greengages. 490 ; BILLS OF FARE. Dinner FoR 8 Persons. February. Cream of barley, & la Reine. Matelotte of eels. [2 Fishes.] Crimped cod broiled, Dutch sauce. Pheasants, & la Financiére. [2 Removes.]| Braized roll of beef, a la Flamande. WNoukles with Parmesan. 2 Entrées: Scollops of fowls, & Vécalarte. Lamb cutlets bread-erumbed, with purée of celery. SECOND COURSE. Teal [2 Roasts, | Macaroni, a l'Italienne. 1 Remove. Rice soufflée. . 4 Entreméts : Canapés of anchovies. Tourte of pears, a la Cobourg. Seakale, & la Béchamel. Burnt cream, au caramel. Dinner For 8 Persons. February. Soup, @ la Désclignac. Crimped haddocks, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of brill, a la Maréchale. Roast haunch of mutton. [2 Removes.] Braized goose, a la Jardiniere. Lobster Patties. 2 Entrees: Chickens, a la Marengo. Salmis of Snipes, a la Talleyrand. SECOND COURSE. Black game. [2 Roasts. ] Salad, & la Russe. 1 Remove. Nouilles cake, & l Allemande. 4 Entreméts : Celery, a la Villeroi. Profitrolles, & la eréme. Poached eggs, on anchovy toast. Apricot cheese, a Ja Chantilly. FOR FEBRUARY. ) 491 DinnEz For 10 Persons. february. Purée of Carrots, 4 la Stanley. Cod & la Créme, au gratin. [2 Fishes.] Water Souchet of Filletsof Soles. Kromeskys of Lobster. Bolles purkey, with purée of [2 Removes.] Braized Ham, au Madére. e ry. 2 Entrees: Supréme of fillets of Woodcocks,& Cutlets of Sweetbreads, 4 la Dauphine. Panciénne, SECOND COURSE. Roast Pheasants. [2 Roasts. ] Timbale of Noukles. 4 Entreméts: Brocoli, au gratin, Currant and Raspberry jelly (preserved.) Lobster salad. - Meringues filled with Orange ice. DiInnER FOR 10 Persons. JSebruary. Soup of Sturgeon’s Head, a la Chinoise. Cod’s Sounds, & la Gasconne, [2 Fishes.] Fried Soles. Patties au jus. Pheasants & la Périgueux. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of Pork, & |’ Anglaise. | 2 Entrées : Tendons of veal in a Chartreuse. Fricassee of chickens, 2 la St. Lambert. SECOND COURSE. Supréme of fruits. [2 Roasts. } Wild Ducks, 4 Entreméts : Apple tartlets. Mushrooms, au gratin. Chestnut Pudding Vanilla cream. 4990 BILLS OF FARE. Dinnrz For 10 Persons. february. Bonne Femme Soup. Whitings, au gratin. | [2 Fishes. | Kels, & la Tartare. Rissoles, & la Milanaise. Capon, & la Montmorency. [2 Removes.| Braized beef, a la D’Orléans, 2 Entrées: A Fillets of chickens, # I’ Indiénne. Paupiéttes of Ox-palates, & la Financiére. SECOND COURSE. Salad, a la Russe. [2 Roasts. | Larks, bread-crumbed, 4. Entreméts : Apricots a la Conde. Nesselrode pudding. Maraschino jelly. Mosaic tartlets. Dinnez For 10 Persons. february. Bisque of rabbits. 1 Fish. Haddocks, & la Belle-vue. Ox-piths fried in batter. Calf’s-head, & la Financiére. [2 Removes.] Small chickens, & fa Vertpre 2 Entrées : Mutton cutlets & la Pompadour Scollops of fat livers, with truffles and fine-herbs. SECOND CoURSE. Scollopea oysters. [2 Roasts. | Pintail. 4 Entreméts : Krapfen with apricot. Puddiug, & la Viennoise. Seakale & la sauce. Champagne jelly. FOR FEBRUARY. - 493 Diyverk ror 8 Persons. February. Hare soup, & la Chasseur ‘Turbot, lobster sauce. _ [2 Fishes.] Broiled whitings, capers’ sauce. Capon and rive. [2 Removes.) Braized leg of mutton, a la Sou bise. Patties, & la Mazarin. 2 Entrées: Grenadins of veal larded, garnished with Fillets of pheasants, & !a Maréchale. a Nivernaise. . SEcoND COURSE. Potato chips. [2 Roasts. ] Ptarmegans. 1 Remove. Apple pudding. 4 Entreméts: Braized Celery, garnished with créus- Orange Jelly, & l’Ang.aise. tades of marrow. Bread-and-butter pastry. Scolloped oysters. DinNER FOR 8 PErsons. February. Ox-cheek soup, 4 la Flamande. Brill, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Baked Gurnets, Italian sauce, Fillet of beef, Poivrade sauce. [2 Removes.| Braized Ducks, with turnips, Tourte of godiveau, & la Ciboulette 2 Entrées: Bondins of pheasant, 2 Ja Victoria. Veal Cutlets, & la Regence. SEcoND COURSE. German salad. (2 Roasts. ] Woodcocks. 1 Remove. Macaroni pudding. 4 Entreméts : Jerusalem artichokes, & |’Espagnole. Quarters of oranges filied with transpa- Egg- brouillés, with truffles. rent jelly. Almond Gauffres & la eréme. 494 BILLS OF FARE DInnER FOR 20 Persons. February. Soup, & la Sévigné. [2 Soups.] Cream of rice, & la Chasseur, Salmon, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Slices of crimped Cod broiled, & la Maitre d’hétel. Ham, & la Parisiénne. [2 Removes.] Poulards, & la Royale. Kromeskys of oysters. 8 Entrées: Fillets of rabbits larded, & l'anciénne. Lamb cutlets, with Macédoine of vege- Fricassee of chickens, & la St. Lambert. tables. Paté-Chaud of larks, & la Périgueux. Fricandeau, with purée of artichokes. Border of rice, with purée of fowl, & la_ Fillets of partridges, with fumet. Polonaise. Mazarine of fat livers, & la Financiere. Seconp Coursz. Snipes. [2 Roasts. | Pheasants. Iced pudding, ’ la Syriénne, [2 Removes.] Soufflé tartlets, & la D’Artois. Nougat of almonds. [2 Flanks.} Savoy cake in the form of a swan 8 Entreméts : Aspic of lobsters, with mayonaise. Charlotte of apricots. Russian salad. Orange jelly, garnished with oranges. Spinach with cream. Florentines, with pistachios. Brocoli with Parmesan cheese. Cherry tartlets. DINNER FOR 20 PrERsons. February. Purée of pheasant. [2 Soups. ] Brinoise soup. Crimped soles, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.) Fillets of turbot, & la Parisiénne. Turkey 4 la Périgueux. [2 Removes.] Braized roll of beef, 4 la D’Orléans, ¥ Marrow patties. 8 Entrées: Potato border, garnished with scollops Mutton cutlets, & la Duchesse. of Larks. Fillets of fowls & l’écarlate, with Su- Turban of ox-palates, au gratin. préme sauce. Fillets of widgeons, & la Gasconne. Sweetbreads larded, & la Monarque. Calf’s-ears, & la Tortné. Quenelles of partridge, & l’ Allemande. SEconD Course. Hares. (2 Roasts. } Black game. Small fondus in cases, [2 Removes. ] Polish Baba. Sultana of spun sugar. {2 Flanks.] Meringue, & la Parisiéune. 8 Entreméts: Truffles, i la Piémontaise. Variegated jelly, & la Victoria. Crayfish, & la Poulette. Bavarian coffee cream. Seakale with white sauce. Apricot nougats. Brussels sprouts with Maitre d’hdtel Mirlitons, sauce. FOR FEBRUARY. — 495 DinneR For 24 Persons. February. Purée of turnips, & la Jardiniére. [2 Soups.] Barley in consommé, jd la Princesse. J ohn-dory, Dutch sauce. [8 Fishes.] Salmon, & la Régence. Fried smelts. ; Calf’s-head, & la Financitre. [2 Removes.]| Chickens, & la Montmorency. Fillet of beef, ala Napolitaine. [2 Flanks.] Grenada Ham, with spinach. 8 Entrées: 2 Lamb Cutlets, & la Chévreuse. 2 Fillets of Woodcocks, & la Valengay. _ 2 Scollops of fowls, with cucumbers. 2 Timbales of macaroni, & la Chasseur. Seconp Course. Partridges. [2 Roasts. ] Wild Ducks. Talmouses, with cheese. [2 Removes.] Iced Pudding, ila Prince Albert. Croquante of Ratafias. [2 Flanks.] Cake, & la Parisiénne. 12 Entreméts : French truffles, au champagne. Braized celery, & ]’Espagnole. Scolloped oysters in small shells. Brocoli, with Béchamel sauce. Aspic, & la Reine. Mayonaise of fillets of soles. Bavarian cream of preserved raspberries. Pine-apple jelly. Mosaic tartlets of apricots. Neapolitan cake, & la Chantilly. Macédoine jelly. Charlotte, & la Russe. DiInnER FoR 86 Persons. February. Purée of partridges, & la Condé. [4 Soups. | 2 Turtle, Spring soup. Fried smelts, Soles, & la Pari- [4 Fishes.] Crimped turbot, lobster sauce, sienne. fried fillets of whiting. Roast Baron of lamb, & la Ma- [2 Removes.] Pheasants, & la Dauphine. cédoine. Croquettes, & la Reine, and oyster créustades. Paté-chaud of snipes, & la Péri- [2 Flanks.] Chartreuse of tendons of veal. gueux, 12 Entrées: 2 Mutton Cutlets, & la Soubise. 2 Fillets of rabbits, & la D’Uxelles. 2 Scollops of partridges, & la Victoria. 2 Boudins of fowl, & la Sefton. t Lamb’s-ears, & la Financiére. 2 Créustades.of nouilles, with purée of woodcocks, SEconpD Course. Black Game. [3 Roasts. ] Teal, Ducklings, Flemish gauffres, Fondu of cheese. [3 Hemoves.] Iced pudding, 4 la Kinnaird. Millefeuilles cake, & la Chantilly. [2 Flanks.] Ham of Savoy cake, garnished with jelly. 16 Lntreméts : 2 Créutes of mushrooms. 2 Asparagus, with butter sauce. 2 Darnes of salmon, with Montpellier- 2 Lobster salads. butter. | ; 2 Punch jellies. 2 Cherry cheeses with cream. 2 Vol’au’vents of apricots. 2 Darioles, with candied orange-flowers. 496 BILLS OF FARE Dinner For 6 Persons. March. Brown purée of turnips soup. 1 Fish. Soles, & la Colbert. Boiled. fowl, with brocoll. [2 Removes. ] Roast leg of lamb. 2 Entrées: Mutton cutlets sautées, witha purée of | Vol’au’vent of godiveau, 4 la Finan- potatoes. ciere, SECOND CoursE. Roast widgeon. 38 Entreméts: Eggs brouillés, with asparagus-peas. Tapioca pudding, custard sauce. German tourte of apples. Dinner FoR 6 PERsons. March. Purée of vegetables, 4 la Croissy. 1 Fish. Salt Fish, & la Béchamel. Roast saddle of mutton, [2 Removes. ] Partridge pie, 4 l’Anglaise. 2 Entrees: Chickens, 4 la Lyonnaise. Blanquette of sweetbreads, garnished with croquettes. SEconp CoursE. Roast larks. 3 Entreméts : Salsifis with white sauce. Bavarian cream of noyeau. Duchess loaves with raspberry jam. Dinner For 6 Persons. March. Soup & la Bonne-femme. 1 Fish, Fillets of whitings, & la Provengale. Roast fillet ot beef, Poivrade sauce. [2 Removes.] Cushion of veal, & le Jardiniére. 2 Entrées: Partridges, 4 ia Bréziliénne. Quenelles of fowl, a I essence. SECOND CouURSE. Roast wild duck 3 Entreméts: Brussels-sprouts sautés with butter. Orange jelly, a Ja Frangaise. Genoese cakes with almonds. A FOR MARCH. 497 DiInNER FOR 6 Persons. March. Potato soup, & la créme. 1 Fish, Fillets of salmon, & la ravigotte. Chickens. a I'Italidane. (2 Removes,] Roast beef, horse-radish sauce 2 Entrées : Pigeons, & la Crapaudine, with piquante § Carbonnades of mutton, Ja Jardinere sauce. SEconND Course. Roast Plovers. 3 Entreméts : Macaroni au gratin. Lemon pudding. Chocolate custards. DiInneER FOR 6 Persons. March. Paysanne soup. 1 Fish, , Crimped skate fried, with capers’ sauce. Braized neck of mutton, & V'Irlan- {2 Removes.] Lark pudding, 4 la Chipolata daise. 2 Entrées: Timbale of raviolis, 4 la Romaine. Chickens, 4 1’ Allemande. SECOND CouRSE. Roast Duckling. 3 Entreméts : Seolloped muscles. Cranberry tart. Lemon and cinnamon cream. 2 DINNER FoR 6 Persons. March. Cream of rice soup, 2 la Victoria. 1 Fish. Fried Eels, & la Tartare. Lamb’s-head, 4 la Gallimanffré, {2 Removes. | Fowl, & la Dauphine. 2 Entrées: ; Beetsteaks, & la Francaise. Braized duck, & la Nivernaise. Seconp CouRSsE, Roast Pigeons. 8 Entreméts ; Jerusalem artichokes, & l’Espagnole. Cherry bread, & la Gotha. Puff-paste tartlets of raspberry-jam. 5 2K me ae 498 "BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 12 PEersons. April. Spring soup. [2 Soups.] Bisque of craytish, ’la Malmesbury Crimped salmon, with parsley and [2 Fishes.] Perch, & la Stanley. butter sauce. Calf’s-head, & 1a Beauveau. [2 Removes.| Poulards and tongue, 3 la Macé- doine. 4 Entrées: Lamb cutlets, & la Duchesse. Boudins of lobster, 4 la Cardimal., Fillets of fowls with asparagus-peas, Fritét of spring chickens, with Poivrade Supréme sauce. sauce. SECOND CouRSE. Guinea fowls, larded. [2 Roasts. | Ducklings. Steamed soufilée. [2 Removes. | Compiégne cake. 6 Entreméts : Brocoli with white sauce. Gooseberry cream. Spinach in small créustades. Flan of pears and rice & la Condé. Loaves, & la Parisiénne. Cherry Jelly. DInNER FOR 12 Persons. April. Quenelles of fowl, inconsommé, [2 Soups.] Purée of young carrots, 4 la Fau- bonne, Spey trout, Dutch sauce, [2 Fishes.] Fillets of soles, & la Bagration. Roast fore-quarter of lamb. [2 Removes. | Chickens, & la Printaniére. 4 Entreés : . Veal cutlets, & la Dreux. Fillets of mutton larded, with Tomata Scoilops of fowls with cucumbers, sauce. Boudins of rabbit, & la Pompadour, Seconp CouRsE. Pigeons. [2 Roasts.] Turkey pousts. Rameqnins, & la Sefton. [2 Removes.] _ Biscuits glacés, in cases. 6 Entreméts : Seakale with white sauce. Gooseberry tartlets. Mushrooms, au gratin, Pudding, & la Viennoise. Yolau’vent. of Macédoine. Marbled cream. FOR APRIL. | 499 DINNER FOR 16 Persons. April. Macaroni clear soup. [2 Sowps.] Purée of spinach, & la Condé. Crimped turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Matelotte of eels, & la Bordelaise. - Braized tg of lamb, ala Jardi- [2 Removes. ] Poulards, a ’ Estragon. Shrimp patties, to be handed round. 6 Hntrees: Mutton cutlets with new potatoes. Sweetbreads larded, & la Parisiénne. Fillets of pigeons, 4 la Dauphine, with Fillets of ducklings, a la Bigarade. French-beans. Quenelles of fowl, a la Périgueux. Quails, au gratin, with Financiére sauce. SEconD CouRsE. Peahen larded. [2 Roasts. | Green goose. Brioche with cheese. [2 Removes. | Chocolate soufflé. 8 Entreméts ; Asparagus with white sauce. Vanilla cream. French-beans, @ la Poulette. Apricot tartlets. Macedoine jelly. Porcupine of apples meringuées. Pudding, a la Prince de Galles. Lobster salad. DInNER FoR 16 Persons. April. Clear turtle soup. [2 Soups. | Soup, a la Hollandaise. Haddocks, egg sauce. [2 Fishes.] 'Turbot, a la créme, au gratin. Lobster patties, to be handed round. Fillet of beefalAllemande [2 Removes. ] Capon, a la Périgueux. 6 Entrées: Braized carbonnades of mutton,a la Ma- Fricandeau, with purée of spinach. _cédoine. Casserole of rice, & la Reine, with Lamb cutlets breadecrumbed, cucumber plovers’ eggs. sauce. Paté-chaud of quails, & la Bourgui- Fillets of pigeons, & la de Luynes. gnonne. Srconp COURSE. Spring chickens. [2 Roasts. | Leverets. _ Small fondus, in cases. [2 Removes. ] Pine-apple fritters. 8 Entreméts: Crétes with mushrooms. Bavarian strawberry cream. Asparagus-peas, & la Frangaise. Cheese cakes. _ Vol’au’ vent of rhubarb. Calf’s-feet wine jelly. Savarin cake. Salade de volaille. 2K 2 “7 V 500 BILLS OF FARE Dinnez FoR 20 Prrsons. April. Chiffonade spring soup. [2 Soups.] Bisque of crab, & la Fitzhardinge. John-dory, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes. ] Salmon, & la Royale. Kromeskys of fowl, & ia Russe. Braized rump of beef, &la Polo- [2 Removes. | Chickens, & la Chivry. naise. 8 Entrées: Mutton cutlets braized, with a purée of _ Vol’au’vent, & la Nésle. chestnuts. Fillets of fowls, & Ja Maréchale. Scollops of leverets, & la Périgueux. Lamb’s-ears farcied, & Ja Dauphine. Compéte of pe: ila Bourguignotte. Grenadins of veal, with purée of spinach Timbale of macaroni, & la Mazarin. SECOND COURSE. Quails. [2 Roasts.] Ducklings. Vol’aw’vent of damsons with [2 Removes. ] Semolina soufflé. iced custard. Nougat, & la Parisiénne. [2 Flanks. ] Brioche with candied citron, 8 Entreméts : French beans, 4 la Maitre d’hétel. Brocoli with Parmesan cheese. Bastion of eels with Montpellier butter. Aspic of plover’s eggs. Pine-apple cream. Strawberry Jelly. Parisian loaves. Green currant tartlets. DiInnER FOR 20 Persons. April. Spring soup. [2 Soups.] Bisque of quails, & la Prince Albert, Mackerel, Fennel sauce. [2 Fishes. | Trout, & la Parisiénne. Rissoleé, & la Milanaise. Poulards, a Ja Printaniére. [2 Removes.| Roast fillet of beef larded, Madeira sauce. 8 Entrees : Fillets of chickens, with a purée of Epigramme of Lamb, with asparagus- truffles. peas. Cutlets of sweetbreads, & la D’Uxélles. Boudins of fowl, 2» la Reine. Noix of veal, & la St. Cloud. Fillets of rabbits larded, with a purée Timbale of nouilles, & la Chasseur. of endives. Border of potato, garnished with scollops of leverets. SEconn Course. Guinea fowls. [2 Roasts. } Pigeons. Ramequins with Gruyére. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, dla Princesse Alice. Cake, a la Victoria. (2 Flanks,| Large Meringue, & la Chantilly. 8 Entreméts : Perigord truffles (boiled in mirepoix), Aspic of fillets of fowl, & la Belle-vue. Asparagus with white sauce. Pomegranate jelly. Lopster salad with a border of plover’s Bavarian coffee cream. eggs. Tourte of apricots, & |’ Allemande. Croquante of Genoese cake. -FOR MAY, 501 | Dinnzer For 8 Persons. May. Bisque of Prawns, Trout, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] White bait. Xoast poulard, a VItalienne. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of lamb and spinach. Patties of ox-piths au jus. 2 Entrees: Pigeon cutlets, & la Dauphine. Scollops of fillets of beef, a la Claremont, SEconp Course. Plover’s eggs plain. [2 Roasts.] Green goose. 1 Remove. Apricot souffié. 4 Entreméts : Green peas plain. Burnt cream au caramel. New potatoes, au gratin. Strawberry tartlets. Dinner For 8 Persons. May. Purée of green peas, a la Victoria. Scollops of fillets of gurnets, Dutch [2 Fishes.] Boiled mackerel. & la Maitre d’hétel. sauce. Poward and rice. [2 Removes. | Beefsteak pie. Mazarine patties. 2 “ntreées : Lambs’ sweetbreads larded, with purée of Blanquette of fowls, garnished with cu- asparagus, cumbers farcied. SeconD COURSE. Russian salad. (2 Roasts. } Leverct. — L Remove. Brown-bread pudding, cherry sauce. 4 Entreméts: French beans, & la Poulette. Marygolds of puff-paste. Macaroni, & la Créme. Célestine charlotte of strawberries. 502 . BILLS OF FARE Dinnez FoR 8 Persons. May. Purée of fowls, 4 la Célestine. Crimped soles, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Red mullets in cases with fine- herbs Chickens, & la keine, [2 Removes. | Ribs of beef & la mode. Lobster patties. 2 Entrees : Boudins of rabbit, & la Richelieu. - Mutton cutlets with stewed peas. SECOND CouURSE. Crayfish plain. [2 Roasts. | Ducklings, 1 Remove. Pancakes with apricot. 4 Entreméts : New potatoes, a la créme. D’ Artois of strawberry-jam. Mlacaroni au gratin. Maraschino jelly, Dinner FoR 8 Pzrsons. May Désclignac soup, with asparagus points. Small turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.| Epigramme of fillets of trout. Braized green-goose, &la Flamande. [2 Removes.} Roast quarter of lamb, & la Maitre d’hotel. Soft roes of mackerel fried in batter, Gascony sauce. 2 Entrées: Chickens, & la Florentine. Tendons of veal, with a Macédoine of - vegetab'es. Ssconp Coursx. Canapés of anchovies. [2 Roasts.] Turkey-poult larded, 1 Remove. Flemish gauffree. 4 Entreméts : Seakale, & la Béchamel. Orange-flower cream. New potatoes, & la Maitre d’Hdtel. Raspberry tartlets. FOR MAY. 503 DINNER FOR 386 Persons. May. Turtle soup (clear), ] Turtle Soup (full). Soup, & la Sevigné. paces Purée of fowls, & la Princesse, Crimped salmon, lobster sauce. é. Turbot, & la Vatel. White bait. Si neetes White bait. Grenada ham braized, garnished Fillet of beef larded, & la Napoli- with a Macédoine. [4 Removes, ] taine. Calf’s-head, & la Tortué, Poulards, & la Godard. Kromeskys of lobsters, to be handed round. 12 Entrées: 2 Fillets of quails, & Panciénne. 2 Quenelles of fowl, & l’essence. 2 Scollops of Fowls with cucumbers. 2 Patés-chauds of leverets, & la Péri- 2 Lamb cutlets bread-crumbed, garnished gueux. with purée of mushrooms, 2 Timbales of raviolis, & la Romaine SECOND CouRSE. Pigeons larded. [3 Roasts.) Spring Chickens. Peahen larded. Krapfen with apricot. [3 Removes, | Fondu of Parmesar Iced pudding, & la Chesterfield. Savoy cake, ila Vanille. [2 Flanks.] Sultana of spun sugar. 16 Entreméts : 2 Groups of large Périgord truffles. 2 Aspics garnished with plover’s eggs, — 2 Stewed peas, & la Francaise. 2 Red eurrant and raspberry-jellies 2 Asparagus with white sauce. 2 Pine-apple cheeses, & la Chantilly. 2 Cherry tartlets. 2 Peaches au riz, & la Condé. 304. BILLS OF FARE. Dinner FoR 28 Persons. May. Jardiniére soup. [3 Soups. ] Bisque of prawns, & la Cerito. Turtle Soup. Crimped trout, lobster sauce [3 Fishes.] Sturgeon, & la Régence,. Fillets of whitings, & la Horly. Marrow patties, with fine herbs sauce Poulards, &la Dauphine. [2 Removes.} Baron of lamb, & la Montmorency. Small ribs of beef braized,ala [2 Flanks.] Braized ham, garnished with French Milanaise. beans. 8 Entrées : 2 Mutton cutlets braized, & la Russe. 2 Fillets of fowls larded and glacés, 2 Fillets of pigeons, & la Villeroi, gar- garnished with a Parisian ragout. nished with a Bourguignotte ragout. 2 Vea! kernels glacés, garnished with a purée of green-peas. SECOND CouRSsE. Turkey-poults larded. [8 Roasts. ] Ducklings, Quails. Talmouses of cheese. [3 Removes.] Pancakes souffiss, Cabinet pudding. Croquaxte of oranges. (2 Flanks.]} Meringue, a la Parisienne. 12 Entreméts: 2 French-beans sautés with butter. 2 Italian salads in decorated aspic- 2 Asparagus, white sauce. borders. 2 Macédoine jellies. ' 2 Célestine strawberry creams. 2 Red-currant and raspberry tartlets. YOR JUNE . 505 Dinner For 6 Persons. June. Green-peas soup, & la Condé, 1 Fish, Baked whitings, with fine-herbs. Chicken pie, & lAngiaise. |2 Removes.] Breast of veal and stewed-peus. 2 Lintrées : Mutton cutlets, & la Milanaise. Rabbit curry, in a border of rice. SeconpD CourseE. Roast pigeons. 3 Entreméts : Stewed-peas, & la Francaise. Bavarian strawberry cream. Puff-paste royals. DinnER FOR 6 PERSONS. June. e Clear rice soup. 1 Fish. Fillets of mackerel, & la Maitre d’Hotel. Poulard, & l’Ivoire. [2 Removes.] Braized neck of mutton, al’ Alle- mande. 2 Entrées: Minced beef, & la Polonaise. Tourte of godiveau, 4 la Financiére. SECOND CouURSE. Roast Duckling. . Cauliflowers with white sauce. Duchess loaves with apricot-jam Timbale of ground rice. DInNER FOR 6 Persons. June. Bonne-femme soup. 1 Fish, Broiled trout, Dutch sauce. Roast leg of Welsh mutton. [2 Removes. | Noix of Veal, & la créme. 2 Entrées: Mince of fowl, with poached eggs. Fillets of beef in their glaze, garnished with stewed-peas. SEConD CouURSE. Roast fowl. 3 Entreméts : Asparagus with sauce. a _ Apricot nougats, Maraschino jelly with strawberries. 506 . _ BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS. June. Macaroni soup, & la Royale, 1 Fish. Soles with fine-herbs. Pigeon pie, & I’ Angiaise. [2 Removes.] Roust fillet of beef, & la Provencale. Croquettes of sweetbreads 2 Entrées. Lawmb’s-feet, & la Poulette. Capilotade of fowi with mushrooms. SEconD CcurRsE. Lobster, au gratin, [2 Roasts. | Green-guose. 1 Remove. Peach fritters. 4 Hntreméts: Cherry tart. Green-peas plain. Custards in glasses. Aspic, & la Reine, DrInnER FOR 8 PERSONS. June, Soup, & la Colbert. 1 Fish, Paupiéttes of fillets of gurnets, & la Cardinal, Braized ham, with spinach. [2 Removes.] Roast fillet of veal, 41’ Anglaise. Créustades, & la Monglas, 2 Entrées: Fricassée of chickens, & la Bourgui- Mutton cutlets, & la Maintezon. gnonne. SEconp Course, Plovers’ eggs plain. [2 Rousts. | Guinea fowls. i Remove. Soufflé of rice. 4 Entreméis: Stewed-peas, & la rrangaise. Vol’au’vent garnished with a Macédoine. Braized lcttuces, & ’Espagnole. of fruits. Noyau cream. FOR JUNE. 507 Dinver FoR 8 Persons. June. Soup, 4 la Ferney. 1 Fish, Spitchcocked eels, with piquante sauce. Ox-piths fried in batter, with Tomata sauce. Chickens, 4 l’Espagnole. [2 Removes. | Boiled neck of mutton. 2 Entrées: Lamb cutlets breadcrumbed, with stew- Young rabbits sautés with fine herbs. ed-peas. Sreconp Course. Italian salad. [2 Roasts. | Quails. 1 Remove. Fritters, & la Dauphine. 4 Entreméts : French beans, & la créme. Peach jelly. Crayfish, & la Poulette. Queen’s cakes. DINNER FOR 18 PeERsons. June. Quenelles of rabbit in consommé. [2 Soups. ] Bisque of lobsters, & la Stanley. Crimped turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes. ] Mullets, & la Chesterfield. White bait. Chickens, & l’Allemande. [2 Removes. ]} Calf’s-head, & la Marigny. 6 Entrées: Créustades of soft roes of mackerel,ala Fillets of ducklings with green-peas. Ravigotte. Salmis of quails, & la Bordelaise. Chartreuse, & la Parisiénne. Veal cutlets larded, with a purée of en: Epigramme of lambs’ sweetbreads, & la dives, Macédoine. SrconD Course. Turkey-poult. [2 Roasts.) Leverets. Ramequins in cases. [2 Removes.| Iced pudding, & la Prince of Wales. 6 Entreméts : Asparagus with sauce. Ginger cream. New potatoes, a la créme. Vol’au’vent of strawberries and cream Cherry jelly garnished with cherries. Parisian nougats. 508 BILLS OF FARE ’ DinnER FOR 18 PeERsons. June. Consommeé with lettuces and peas. [2 Soups. ] Macaroni, & la Medicis. Salmon trout with parsley and but- [2 Fishes. | Sturgeun, & la Beaufort. ter sauce. ae Bouchées of whitings, & la Pompadour. Poulards, & la Belle-vue. [2 Removes. | Haunch cf venison. 6 Entrées: Mazarine of fat livers, & la Toulouse. Mutton cutlets braized, & la Nivernaise Chartreuse of vegetables, garnished with Fillets of fowls, & la Valengay. tendons of veal. ; Lamb’s-ears, & la Tortué. Boudins of rabbit, a la Reine. SEcoND CouURSE. Green-goose. [2 Roasts.] Quails. Large meringue with iced cream. [2 Removes. ] Compiégne cake. 8 Entreméts: French-beans sautés with butter. Pine-apple cheese, @ la Chantilly , Stewed-peas, 4 la Francaise. Fanchonettes with vanille. ked-currant jelly, garnished with peaches. Flan of cherries. Plovers’ eggs. Aspic of prawns. DinnpR FOR 12 Prrsons. July. Vermicelli clear soup. [2 Soups.] Brown purée of turnips, & la Condé. Fried flounders. [2 Fishes. ] Char, & la Génoise. Noukles, with Parmesan. Fillet of beef, Chévreuil sauce, [2 Removes.] Chickens and tongue, & la Printa- niére, 4 Entrées: Cutlets of breasts of lamb, & la Villeroi, | Quenelles of lobster, & la Vertpre, with French-beans. Pate-chaud of young rabbits with fine Compote of pigeons with peas. herbs. SECOND CouRSE. * Peahen larded. [2 Roasts. ] Ducklings. Parmesan fritters. [2 Removes. } Polish Baba. 4 Entreméis : Young broad-beans, & la Poulette. Peaches with rice, X Ja Condé Aspic of prawns, 4 la Russe. Puff-paste platts. FOR JULY. 509 DINNER FoR 12 Persons. July. Consommé soup, 4 la Xavier. [2 Soups. ] Green-peas soup, & la Fabert. ‘G White bait. [2 Fishes.] Salmon, & P’Ecossaise. Shrimp patties. Poulard, & la Godard [2 Removes. | ee of lamb larded, & la Macé oine. 4 Entrées: Mutton cutlets bread-crumbed and broil- Tendons of veal on a border of vegeta- ed, with shalot gravy. : bles, garnished with peas. Vol’au’vent, & la Financiére. Blanquette of fowls, & l’écarlate. SECOND CouURSE. Guinea-fowls. [2 Roasts.] Quails. Omelette soufflée. [2 Removes.] Coburg cake. 4 Entreméts : Cucumbers farcied, & l’essence. Tourte of currants and raspberries Stewed-peas, & la Frangaise. Blane-manger. Dinner For 14 Persons. July. Spring soup. [2 Soups.| Cream of pearl-barley, & la Prin. taniére. Crimped perch, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Salmon, &la Maréchale. Rissoles of lamb’s brains, & 1’ Allemande. Chickens, & la Florentine. [2 Removes.] Small ribs of beef, & la Flamande. 4 Entrées: Greuadins of veal with stewed-peas. Boudins of whitings, with a ragout of Cutiets of pigeons, & la Dauphine, gar- crayfish tails. nished with Bourguignotte ragout. Fricassée of chickens, & la Paysanne. Second Course, Capon. [2 Roasts.] Leverets. Pufi-paste ramequins. [2 Removes.| Soufilé pudding of semolina, 4 Entreméts : Lobster salad, with plovers’ eggs. Artichokes, & la Lyonnaise. Charlotte Russe, garnished with fruits. Vol’au’vent of eherries. ¢ ‘ 510 BILLS OF FARE ' DINNER FOR 14: Persons. July. Brfinoise-Printaniére. [2 Soups.] Bisque of crayfish, & ’Anciénne John-Dory, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes, ] Trout, & la Chevaliére, Croquettes of ox-palates. Braized ham with broad beans. [2 Removes.] Poulards, a la Périgord. 4 Entrées : Mutton cutlets, 2 la Pompadour, gar- Lamb’s-sweetbreads larded, with purée nished with a Macédoine. of artichokes. : Scollops of quails with fumet sauce and _— Fillets of fowls, 4 la Belle-vue, with Su- truffles, garnished with small créus- préme and cucumbers, tades of purée. SECOND COURSE. Spring-chickens. [2 Roasts. ] Ducklings. Dauphine fritters. [2 Removes. ] Vanilla soufflés in cases. 4 Entreméts : French-beans, & la Maitre d’ Hotel. Strawberry jelly. Aspic of plovers’ eggs and prawns. Profitrolles, a la vanille. Dinner FoR 18 Persons. July. Soup, & 1a Dauphine. [2 Soups.] Purée of asparagus, & la St. George Crimped salmon, parsley and butter. [2 Fishes.| Fresh-water trout in cases with fine- herbe Chicken patties, & la Béchamel. Capon, & la Toulouse. [2 Removes.] Saddle of lamb, a la Printaniére. 6 Entrées : Chartreuse of vegetables, garnished with Scollops of fowls with cucumbers and braized quails, fumet sauce. Supréme sauce. Turban of fillets of rabbits, & la Royale, Mutton cutlets braized, garnished with Financiére ragout. asparagus peas. Veal kernels, & Ja Villeroi, garnished Fillets of ducklings, with French-beans with a purée of green-peas. and half glaze. SECOND CouRSE. Pigeons. [2 Roasts. | Turkey poults. Flemish gauffres. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, & la Nesselrode. 6 Entreméts : Artichokes, ® la Barigoule. Raspberry tartlets. : Stewed-peas, a la Frangaise. Duchess loaves, garnished with fresh Pine-apple jelly currants. Peach cheese, & 1a Chantilly. FOR JULY. ee 511 Drinnztez ror 18 Persons. July. Consommé of fow! with quenelles. [2 Soups.] Purée of green-peas, & la Ferney. Water-souchet of fillets of soles. [2 Fishes. ] Sturgeon, & la Cardinal. Kromeskys of lobsters. Poulards, & la Parisiénne, § [2 Removes.] Haunch of Venison. 6 Entrées: Mazarine of fillets of whitings,&la Ve- Paté-chaud of leverets, & la Périgueux. nitiénne. Scollops of sweetbreads, 4 la Maréchale. Lamb-cutlets, breadcrumbed, with purée with purée of mushrooms. of artichokes. Fricassée of spring chickens, & la Bour- Fillets of pigeons, & la de Luynes, with guignonne. a Macédoine of vegetables. Seconp CourRsE. Green-goose. [2 Roasts. ] Quails. Brioche with cheese (hot). | [2 Removes.] Vol’au’vent of currants and rasp- berries, with an iced custard- cream. 8 Entreméts : Young broad-beans, & la Poulette. Bavarian cream of pistachios. Cucumbers farcied, with Espagnolesauce, Panachée jelly. Italian salad in a border of aspic-jelly. Almond gauffres, filled with strawberries Darne of salmon, with Montpellier butter. and cream. German tourte of apricots. d12 Batt SupreR FOR 3800 PERSONS. BILLS OF FARE Summer 8 Grosse-pieces, on ornamental stands : 2 Raisea pies of fowls and ham with truffles, garnished with jelly. Galantines of poulards, with aspic- jelly. to 2 Hams ornamented witn aspic-jelly. 2 Boars’-heads, ornamented with aspic- jelly. 48 Cold entrées, dished up on silver plates : 6 Groups of plovers’ with aspic-jelly. 3 Plates of cold roast fowls with do. (cut up). 6 Plates of tongue, in slices, garnished with aspic-jelly. eggs, garnished 6 Lobster salads. 6 Mayonaises of fowl. 6 Mayonaises of fillets of saimon. 6 Entrées of lamb-cutlets, ala Belle-vue. 6 Entrées of chaud-froid fricassées of chickens, 36 Cold roast ees and 4 tongues, to be hept in reserve for the purpose of replenishing those entrées as they are eeten. 8 Grosse-pieces of pastry, on stands : Savoy cakes, a la vanille. Nougats of almonds and pistachios. bt rea) 2 Croquantes. 1 Baba. 1 Victoria ake 16 Entreméts of small pastry : Cherry tartlets. Strawberry and apricot tartlets. Fenchonnettes, with orange flowers. Genoese cakes, with almonds. Apricot nougats. Florentines. Madeleines. Duchess loaves. Mecca loaves. Polish cakes. Cheese-cakes. Queen’s cakes. Small meringues. Almond gauffres. Puff-paste mosaic tartlets. Petits-choux, with pistachios. 36 Moulds of jellies and creams: 6 Currant jellies, garnished with peaches. 6 Cherry jellies. 6 Russian Charlottes. 6 Pine-apple jellies. 6 Macédoine jellies. 6 Strawberry Charlottes 3 Soups, to be served from the buffet. Spring soup. Vermicelli clear soup. Puree of fowls or cream of barley. 24 Hot roast fowls. French beans, new potatoes. FOR SUMMER. 513. ‘Pustic Dinner For 300 Persons. Summer. Spring soup. [3 Soups. ] Purée of fowls, ila Reine. Turtle soup (full and clear),.* 24 Dishes of Fish: 6 Turbots, with lobster sauce. 6 Fillets of mackerel, & la Ravigotte. 6 Salmon, Dutch and parsley sauces, 6 Fried fillets of soles. —_———___, 8 Haunches of venison. 48 Roast fowls (hot). 48 Hot Entrées: 8 Of sweetbreads larded, with purée of 8 Of lamb-cutlets breadcrumved, with artichokes. Macédoine. & Of beefsteaks, & la Frangaise. 8 Of cutlets of quails, & la Maréchale, § Of scollops of fowls with cucumbers. with stewed peas. 8 Of chickens, & la Marengo. 48 Cold Entrées: 8 Of lobster salads, 8 Of Mayonaises of chickens. 8 Of fillets of fowls, & la Belle-vue. 8 Of sliced galantine with jelly. 8 Of salads of fillets of soles and salmon. 8 Of aspics of plovers’ eggs. 12 Grosse pieces, on ornamental stands : 3 Raised pies, garnished with aspic-jelly. 3 Groups of large périgord truffles. 8 Groups of large crayfish, 3 Hams garnished with aspic-jelly. 12 Grosse pieces of pastry, on stands : 3 Brioches, with dried cherries and can- 8 Coburg cakes (in high moulds), (hot)., died citron (hot), 3 Nougats, & la Parisiénne. 3 Grosse meringues, & la Chantilly. 48 Entreméts of small pastry, on ornamental stands : 8 Of Genoese cakes, with pistachios and 8 Of currant and raspberry tartlets. apple-jelly. 8 Of. Profitrolles (half with coffee, half 8 Of apricot puff-paste tartlets. with chocolate), _ 8 Of Parisian loaves. 8 Of Darioles, & la vanille. 48 Moulds of jellies and creams: 8 Peach jellies. 8 Macédoine jellies. 8 Cherry jellies. 8 Bavarian strawberry creams. 8 Italian creams and blanc-mangers, 8 Panachée jellies with apricot cream in the centre). 48 Entreméts of dressed vegetables : 12 Of new potatoes, & la créme. 12 Of artichokes, 4 I’Italiénne. 12 Of stewed-peas, & la Francaise, 12 Of French-beans, & la Maitre d’Hotel. * Serve 12 tureens of turtle, 6 of clear and 6 of full-dreased turtle; 6 tureens of spring soup. ane 6 of purée of fowl, dla Keine. es ik ee ; BILLS OF FARE D1InnER FOR 12 PuRsons. August. Désclignac soup. [2 Soups.] . Purée of carrots, & la Crécy, Soles, & la Colbert. [2 Fishes.] Red mullets, & I’Italiénne. Anchovy patties, & la Mazarin. Capon, & la Milanaise. [2 Removes.] Braized necks of mutton larded, & ) Allemande. 4 Entrées: Blanquette of lamb’s-sweetbreads, & la Salmis of grouse, & la Bordelaise. aysanne. Tourte of whitings, & la Dauphine. Mutton cutlets, 4 la Provengale. SEconD CouURSE. Chickens. (2 Roasts.] Wheatears. Fondu of Parmesan. [2 Removes. ] Viénnoise pudding. 4 Entreméts : Vegetable marrow, a la créme. Codling cheese, & la Chantilly. - Potatoes, & la Hollandaise. Genoese cakes with pistachios. Dinner ror 12 Persons. August. Macaroni in consommé. [2 Soups.] Purée of spinach, & la Beauveau. Water-souchet of perch. [2 Fishes.] Slices ofsalmon broiled, with capers sauce. Patties, au jus. Roast saddle of mutton. [2 Removes, ] Grouse pie, a l’Ecossaise. 4 Entrées: Fricassée of chickens, 2 la Financiére. - Members of ducks, 3 la Nivernaise. Epigramme of lamb, with a purée of po- Fillets of leverets larded, with Poivrade tatoes, sauce, SECOND CoURSE. Guinea fowls, [2 Roasts.) Ruffs aud Reeves Omelette with apricot. [2 Removes. | Cherry bread, . 4 Entreméts : - French beans, & la Poulette, Flan of peaches. Artichokes with white sauce, Coffee creain. FOR AUGUST. ; 515 Dinner ror 12 Persons. August. Consommé of fowl with quenelles. [2 Soups. ] Hodge-Podge, & I’Ecossaise. Fried whitings, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Charr, & la Parisiénne. Oyster patties. Roast haunch of venison. [2 Removes, ] Capon au gros-sel. 4 Entrees: Chartreuse, 4 la Cardinal. Members of chickens, & la Marechale, Fricandeau, & la Jardiniére, Mutton cutlets with purée of turnips. SECOND CouURSE, Peahen larded. [2 Roasts. ] Grouse, Custard fritters. [2 Removes.| Apple pudding with apricot jam. 4 Entreméts : Vegetable marrow, & |’Espagnole. Blane-manger. Spinach with cream. Florentines, Dinner For 12 Persons. August. Juliénne soup. [2 Soups. ] Oyster soup, 4 la Plessy. Brill and Shrimp sauce. [2 Fishes.] Trout, & L’ Aurore. Lobster patties. Roast capon, % la Financiére. [2 Removes.] Necks of red deer, 4 la St. Andrew 4 Entrées : Grouse, 4 la Richelieu. Ox-cheek braized, & la Jardinié¢re. Quenelles of fowl, & la Toulouse Timbale of raviolis, & la Romaine SECOND CourRSsE, Ducklings. [2 Roasts.] Wheatears. Pancakes with apricot. [2 Removes. ] Iced biscuits in cases. 4. Entreméts : Cucumbers, & la Poulette. Kirschenwasser jelly. Artichokes, & la Provengale. Meringues with cream and strawberries 22 516 BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 12 Persons. August. Br&noise soun. [2 Soups.] Grouse soup, & ) Kcossaise. Crimped salmon, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Matelotte of soles, & la Plessy. Tourte of Godiveau, & la Ciboulette. Capon, & la Chivry. [2 Removes.] Breast of veal, & la Windsor, 4 Entrees : Créustade of bread, garnished with scol- Fillets of mutton larded, garnished with lops of fat livers, & l Epicuriénne. fried potatoes, Poivrade sauce. Chickens sautés with fine-herbs. Fillets of rabbits, & Ja D’Uxelles. SEconp CoursE. Turkey-poults. [2 Roasts. ] Leveret. Ratafia soufflé. [2 Removes.] Rice croquettes. 4 Entreméts Broiled mushrooms. : Eggs & la neige, flavoured with orange- Stewed peas, & la Francaise. flowers. Pears in tartlets (whole). DiInnER FOR 12 Persons. August. Consommé with Italian paste. [2 Soups.] Soup of gratinated crusts, ala Fer- neuse. Fried fillets of trout. [2 Fishes. ] Stewed carp, & I’Anglaise, Oysters fried in batter. Roast neck of venison. [2 Removes, ] Chicken pie, & la Reine. 4 Hntrées: Tendons of veal, & la Dauphine, with [Braized carbonnades of mutton, & Ja Ri- stewed peas. chelieu. Fillets of fowls with truffles, Supréme Salmis of grouse. & |’ Anciénne. sauce, SECOND COURSE. Dottrel- (2 Roasts.) Guinea-fowls. Ramequins. [2 Removes. } Krapfen with apricot, 4 Entreméts . Macédoine of vegetables. Condé cakes. Russian salad. Plum Charlotte. FOR SEPTEMBER. 517 DINNER FOR 24 Prrsons, Russran styiz. September. Macaroni, & la St, Piérre. {3 Soups.) Jardiniére clear ‘soup. Turtle. Fillets of salmon. & la Ravigotte. [3 Fishes.] Pike, 3 la Chambord. Turbot, lobster sauce. Kromeskys of oysters. Ham with Frencb-beans, [3 Removes. ] Chickens, 4 1a Belle-vue. , Haunch of venison. 6 Entrées: 2 Of mutton cutlets, : la Soubise. 2 Of partridges with fine-herbs. 2 Of quenelles of fowl with essence. SEconD CouRSE. Quails. [3 Roasts. ] Capon. Grouse. Fondu of Parmesan. [3 Removes. ] Brown-bread pudding. Iced cake, & la Stanley. 8 Entreméts : 2 Of artichokes, & la Provensale. 2 Of peach-jellies. 2 Of apricot tartlets. 2 Of Russian salads. Dinner For 24 Prrsons, Russian styuE. September. Soup, & la Colbert. [3 Soups.] White purée of turnips. Giblet soup. Fillets of gurnets, & V’Italiénne. [3 Fishes.] Fried soles. Crimped cod with oyster sauce. Patties, 4 la Béchamel. Boiled leg of mutton. [3 Removes.] Black game, & la Norwégienne. 2 Roast geese, 4 1’ Anglaise. 6 Entrées: 2 Of sweetbreads larded, with purée of 2 Of cutlets of young partridges, 4 la endives. Maréchale. 2 Of haricot of venison, 2 la Nivernaise. SECOND CoURSE, Wheatears. [3 Roasts.] Pigeons, Poulard. Parmesan fritters. [3 Removes. } Pancakes soufilés, Pudding, 4 la Nesselrode. 8 Entreméts : 2 Of French-beans sautés with butter. 2 Of pears with rice, & la Condé 2 Of scolloped lobsters an gratin. 2 Of Vol’au’vents of greengages. 518 BILLS OF FARE DinneEz FOR 16 Persons. September. Vermicelli, & la Royale. [2 Soups.] Ox-tail soup. Cod, & la Béchamel. [2 Fishes.) Broiled haddocks, Dutch sauce. Fowls and tongue with cauliflowers. [2 Removes,] Haunch of red deer, & la Kinnaird. 6 Entrees: Fillets of grouse, breadcrumbed, & la Créustadegarnished with lamb’s-brains, Maitre d’Hotel. with Matelotte sauce. Mutton patties, & la Windsor. Tourte of scollops of lobsters, & la Car. Minced beef, & la Polonaise. dinal, Chickens sautés, 4 la Lyonnaise. SEconD CouRSsE. Black-game. [2 Roasts. ] Partridges. Sweet omelette. [2 Removes.] Chestnut pudding. 6 Entreméts : Tomatas au gratin. Bavarian chocolate cream. Fried artichokes. D’ Artois of apple marmalade. Lemon-jelly, & la Russe. Petits-choux, with almonds. Dinner FOR 16 Persons. September. Purée of endives,&lacréme. [2 Soups.] Giblet soup, & 1’ Irelandaise. Eels, & la Tartare. [2 Fishes.] Salmon with lobster sauce. Vea! and ham pie. [2 Removes. ] Braized goose, & l’Estouffade. 6 Entrées: Ox-piths in small cases, with fine-herbs. Partridges, & la Périgueux. Croustades, & la Milanaise. Quenelles of whitings, with crayfiish Vol’au’vent of lamb’s-feet, 4 la Poulette. sauce. Blanquette of fowl with mushrooms. Seconp CourRsE. Capon. [2 Roasts.) Leveret. Puff-paste ramequins. [2 Removes.] Tapioca pudding. 6 Entreméts : Spinach au jus. Noyau-jelly. Vegetable marrow, & la Béchamei, Burnt-almond cream, Charlotte of apricots. Cheese-cakes. g Pm DINNER FOR 12 Persons. Julienne Soup. Cod’s head, baked, Ham, with spinach, Supréme of fowls, & la Talleyrand. Oyster patties, & la Sefton, Hare. Brioche, with cheese. Mushrooms, & la Provengale. Scolloped crayfish. FOR OCTOBER, 519 October. [2 Soups.} Mock turtle soup. [2 Fishes. ] Fillets of soles, & la Diéppoise. [2 Removes.] Roast fillet of veal, & la Mac€doiue 4 Entrees: Mutton cutlets, & 1’ Indiénne. Fillets of woodcocks, & l’Anciénne, SECOND CouRSE. [2 Roasts.} Pheasants. [2 Removes.] Soufflé of chocolate. 4 Entreméts : German apple tourte. Pine-apple jelly. DiInnER FOR 12 PERsoNS. Purée of spinach, & la Conti. [2 Soups.] Fried soles, Shrimp sauce. Roast saddle of mutton. Fillets of teal, & la Provengale. Ballotines of legs of chickens, & la Financiére. Larks. Omelette, with Parmesan, Créutes, with mushrooms, Macaroni, au gratin. October. Soup, 4 la Paysanne. [2 Fishes.] Crimped cod, & la Séville. [2 Removes.} Partridge pie, & ]’ Anglaise. 4 Entrées: Scollopes of beef sautées, with oyster sauce Croquettes of sweetbreads, 4 l’Allemande. ——— > Seconp CoursE. [2 Roasts. } Grouse. [2 Removes.} Pancakes, wita apricot, 4 Entreméts: Damson cheese, 3 la Chantilly, Apple mosaic tartlets, 520 © : BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 12 Persons. October. Cousommé, with rice. [2 Soups. ] Brown purée of turnips. Brill with lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Cod’s sounds, & la Provengale, Braized ribs of beef, & la mode. [2 Removes.] Roast sucking pig, & l’Anglaise. 4 Entrées: Scollops of young rabbits in cases, with Salmis of partridges, with mushrooms. fine-herbs, Chickens, with Lasagnes, & ]’Italiénne. Fricandeau, with purée of endives. Seconp Course. Poulard. [2 Roasts. ] Snipes. Croquettes of chestnuts. [2 Removes. | Pine-apple pudding. 4 Entreméts : Brussels sprouts, dressed with butter. Puff-paste Royals. Scolloped mussels, au gratin. Apple charlotte. DINNER FoR 12 Persons. October. Consommé with Lasagnes. [2 Soups. ] Calves’-tails soup, & la Royale. Fried smelts, Anchovy sauce. [2 Fishes. | Haddocks, egg sauce. Boiled leg of mutton, & l’Anglaise. [2 Removes.] Braized pheasants, with cabbages. 4 Entrées: Kromeskys of oysters, & la Russe. Boudins of rabbit, & la D’ Artois, Pork cutlets, & la sauce Robert. Chickens gautés, & 1 Algeriénne. SEconD Course. Hare. [2 Roasts. ] Partridges. Spanish puffs. [2 Removes.] Apple pudding. ; 4 Entreméts: Potatoes, & la Maitre d’Hotel. Nougats of apricot Tomatas, with fine-herbs, au gratin, Coffee cream. FOR OCTOBER.. j | Aimer DInnerk FOR 12 Persons. October. Brdnoise soup. [2 Soups.] Hare soup, & la St. George. Fillets of whitings, & la Royale. [2 Fishes.] Baked gurnets, with Piquante sauce, Capon, with rice. [2 Removes. ] Roast haunch of mutton. 4 Entrées: Salmis of woodcocks, & la Minute. Fillets of beef sautés in their glaze. Polpettes of rabbit, & l’Italiénne. Mince and grill of fowl, & la Béchamel Srconp CouRsE. Larks. [2 Roasts, ] Pheasants. Coburg cake. [2 Removes.]| Iced pudding, & la Duchess of ert, : 4 Entreméts: Spinach, au jus. Apples, & la Portuguaise. Eggs brouilles, with truffles. Russian lemon-jelly. DinnEB FOR 12 Persons. October. Flemish soup. [2 Soups.] Purée of pheasant, d la Condé. Slices of Cod, broiled, &la Maitre [2 Mishes.] Fillets cf gurnets, & l’Italiénne. d’ Hotel. Chickens, & I’ Ivoire. [2 Removes.| Haunch of roebuck, & l’Allemande 4 Entrées: Veal cutlets, bread-crumbed, with purée Partridges, 4 la Brésiliénne. of spinach. Quenelles of fowl, 4 la Maréchale, Haricét of mutton, & la Nivernaise. SzconD CoursgE, Black game. [2 Roasts,] Golden plovers. Parmesan fritters. [2 Removes. ]} Ginger pudding, 4 Entreméts : Jerusalem artichokes, & la Béchamel. Punch jelly. Portugal onions, a l’Espagnole. Genoese cakes, & la Chantiily, 522 - BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 18 Persons. November. Juliénne, [2 Soups. | Bisque of snipes, & la Bonne-bouche. Crimped skate fried, with capers’ [2 Fishes. ] Matelotte of carp and eels. sauce. Pheasants, ala Financiére. § [2 Removes.] Braized rump of beef, & la Fla- mande. 6 Entrées: Pate-chaud of partridges, & la Chasseur. Blanquette of fowl, with truffles. Chartreuse, 4 la Parisienne. Braized carbonnades of mutton, & la Pork cutlets, & L’ Aurore. Brétonne. Fillets of grouse, with fumet sauce. SECOND CoURSE, Capon. [2 Roasts. } Teal. Cheese fondu. [2 Removes. ] Apple fritters. 6 Entreméts: Macaroni, & la Napolitaine. Russian charlotte, & la vanille Turnips glacés, with sugar. Darioles, with ratafias. Orange-jelly, & l’ Anglaise. Bread-and-butter pastry. DinneER FoR 18 Persons. November. Consomme of pheasant, with [2 Soups.| Cream of pearl barley, ala Victoria. quenelles. Spitchcocked eels. [2 Fishes,] Crimped haddocks, Dutch sauce. Roast haunch of mutton. {2 Removes.] Black game, & la Montagnarde. 6 Entrées: Paté-chaud of ox-palates, & I’ Italiénne. Quenelles of fowl, & la D’Orsay. Chartreuse of tendons of veal, garnished Mutton cutlets, & la Provengale. with a Jardiniére. Scollops of fowls, with truffles. Fritét of chickens, with Tomata sauce. Sxconp Course. Wild ducks. [2 Roasts.] Partridges. Krapfen. [2 Lemoves.] Cotfee souffle 6 Entreméts : Group of Périgord truffles. Mirlitons, with apricot. Brocoli, with Parmesan cheese. Lemon-jelly in quarters. Pear with rice, & Ja Condé, Maraschino Bavarian creain, FOR NOVEMBER. 523 DINNER FOR 18 Persons, November. Macaroni clear soup, [2 Soups. } Purée of celery, & la créme. Fillets of perch, fried, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.} Carp, & la Chambord. Poulards, & la Périgueux. [2 Removes,] Fillets of mutton, larded witk Poivrade sauce. 6 Entrees: Créustades of rice filled with purée of Fillets of rabbits, & la D’Uxelles, gar- woodcocks. nished with Soubise purée. Tourte of Godiveau, & la Financiére. Supréme of fowls, & l’écarlate. Scollops of pheasant, & la Victoria. Mutton cutlets, with purée of potatoes. SECOND CouRSE. Larks, [2 Roasts.] Grouse. Custard fritters. [2 Removes, | Apple souffle. 6 Entreméts : Salsifis, with white sauce. Calf’s-feet jelly, with grapes. Mushrooms, with fine-herbs, au gratin. Timbale of ground rice. Cuiragao, Bavarian cream. Puff-paste walnuts. Dinner FoR 18 Persons. November. Scotch broth. [2 Soups.] Hare soup, 4 |’ Anglaise. Fried slices of cod, oyster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Baked pike, with Italian sauce. Roast fillet of beef, Poivrade sauce. [2 Removes.] Braized goose, 4 la Flamande. 6 Entrées: Boudins of partridge, & la Périgueux. Scollops of mutton, with oyster sauce. Pork cutlets, broiled, with Tomata sauce. Widgeon, a |’ Américaine. Curry of rabbits, & l’Indiénne. Créustades of marrow, with fine-herbg SECOND CouURSE, Golden Plovers. [2 Roasts.] Pheasants. Ramequins. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, & la Parisiénne. 6 Entreméts: Braized celery, 4 lEspagnole, Pine-apple cheese, & la Chantilly Scolloped muscles. Mecca loaves. Noyau jelly. Apples and rice, with apricot. 524. BILLS OF FARE. DinnER FOR 8 Persons.. November. Soup, & la Paysanne. Turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Salmon cutlets, & la Maintenon. Roast leg of mutton. [2 Removes.] Lark pudding, & la Melton Mow- bray. Rissoles, & la Milanaise. 2 Entrées: Pigs’ feet, & la Ste. Ménéhould. Chicken sautés, with fine-herbs. SEconD Course, Fried potatoes, [2 Roasts. ] Pheasant. Apricot soufflé, to remove the roast. 4 Entreméts : Créutes with truffles, & la Piémontaise. Pudding, & la Viénnoise. - German salad. Almond cakes, & la créme. DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS. November. Purée of rabbits, & la Chantilly. Broiled herrings, mustard sauce. [2 Fishes.] Scollops of cod, & Ja Hollandaise, Capon, with nouilles. [2 Removes,] Braized neck of mutton larded, & la Soubise, Calf’s brains, fried in batter. 2 Hntrées: Kidneys bread-crumbed, & la Maitre Cutlets of partridges, & l’ Algériénne, d’ Hotel. SEconD CouURSE, Macaroni, au gratin. [2 Roasts.] Wild ducks. Orange fritters, to remove the roast. 4 Entreméts: Celery, & la Villeroi. Pear cheese, a la créme. Poached eggs, on anchovy toast, Love’s wells, garnished with preserve. FOR NOVEMBER. 525 DinneR FoR 8 PrErsons. November. Pearl barley soup, a la Princesse. Salmon, 4 la Tartare, [2 Fishes.] Paupiéttes of fillets of soles, & la Ravigotte. Roast neck of venison, [2 Removes.] Calf’s-head, & l’Anglaise. Black puddings, 2 Entrees: Boudins of pheasant, & la Dauphine, Fricassée of chickens, & la Romaine, with Soubise sauce, Seconp Course, Scolloped oysters. [2 Roasts. ] Woodcocks. Iced rice pudding, & la Cintra, to remove the roast. 4 Entreméts: Eggs, & l’Aurore. Apple cheese, with custard. Spinach, with cream. Harry the Eighth’s shoe-strings. Dinner FoR 8 Persons. November. Mulligatawny soup. Fillets of haddock, & la Royale. [2 Fishes.] Cod, & Ja créme, Boiled turkey, with oyster sauce. [2 Removes. ] Roast sucking pig. Croquettes of ox-palates. 2 Entrées: Crépinettes of partridges, ila D’Estaing. Fricandeau, with purée of Tomatas. Seconp CouRSE. Italian salad. _ [2 Roasts.) Hare. Iced biscuits, in small cases. 4 Entreméts : Brussels sprouts sautés, & la Maitre Potatoes, & la Hollandaise. d’ Hotel. . Orange pudding, Meringues, & la créme, 526 BILLS OF FARE ce Dinner FoR 8 Persons. November. Cream of rice, & la Chasseur. Fried Smelts. [2 Fishes.] Lampreys, & la Foley. Goose, & la Dauphinoise. (2 Removes.} Fillets of red deer, & la Royale. . < Patties, au jus. 2 Entrées Sheep’s tongues, & l’écarlate, with spi- Pigeons, & la Duchesse. nach, Seconp Course. Pheasant. [2 Roasts. ] Snipes. Pear fritters, to remove the roast. 4 Entreméts: Salsifis fried in batter ; Rice cake, with almonds. Eggs, & la tripe. Vol-au-vent of apricots. Dinner FoR 8 Persons. November. Purée of lentilles, & la Soubise. Fried soles. [2 Fishes. | Tench, & la Hollandaise. Ham, with spinach. [2 Removes.] Roast turkey, & l’Angiaise. Bouchées of larks, 4 Ja Pompadour. 2 Entrees: Fillets of partridges, » Ja Plessy. Scollops of mutton sautées, with olives. Seconp Course. Russian salad. [2 Roasts.] Widgeon. Vol-au-vent of damsons, with iced cream, to remove the roas*. 4 Entreméts. Eggs, & la Dauphine. Pomegranate jelly. Endives, with cream, Macaroni cake, Led FOR DECEMBER. 527 Dinner For 14 Persons. December. Juliénne. (2 Soups.] Purée of rabbits, 4 la Maitre d’ Hotel. Crimped slices of pike, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Broiled turbot, & la Provengale. Turkey, with celery sauce. [2 Removes.] Haunch of roebuck, & la Marie Stuart. Oyster patties, & la Sefton. - 4 Entrées: Mutton cutlets, & la Russe. Fricassée of chickens, & la Dauphine. Partridges, & la Périgueux. . Noix of Veal, & la Macédoine. SECOND CouRSE. Pheasants, [2 Roasts. ] Snipes. Ratifia soufflé. [2 Removes.] Chestvut pudding. 6 Entreméts: Seakale, with white sauce, Vanilla Bavarian cream. Group of large truffles. . Millefeuil'es cake, & la Chantilly, Orange jelly, & la Francaise. Apricots. & la Condé (preserved. Dinner For 14 Persons. December. Consommé of game, with lasagnes. [2 Soups.] Purée of lentils, & la Brftnoise. John Dory, with lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.| Whitings, with fine-herbs. Ham, with Brussels sprouts. [2 Removes.] Roast turkey, & la Chipolata. White Puddings, & la Royale. 4 Entrées: Veal cutlets, & la Zingara. Fillets of grouse, & la Dauphine, with Timbale of raviolis, & la Napolitaine. Piquante sauce. Civet cf hare, with mushrooms. SEcoND CouRSE. Wild ducks. [2 Roasts. ] Partridges. Iced pudding, & la Kinnaird. [2 Removes. ] Mince pies, 6 Entreméts : Jerusalem artichokes, & |’ Espagrole. Lemon jelly, & Ja Frangaise. Croquettes of potatoes. Cherry tartlets. Pistachio cream. Tourte of Frangipane. 528 BILLS OF FARE DinnzER FOR 14 Persons, December. Briinoise soup. [2 Soups. ] Purée of grouse, & la Condé. Baked pike, with Piquante sauce. [2 Fishes.] Whitings, & la Maitre d’ Hotel, Capon, 4 la Périgueux. [2 Removes.] Roasted ham, & la St. James. Rissoles of calf’s brains. 4 Entrées : Cutlets of partridges,& la Maréchale, Scollops of fat livers, with fine-herbs, with an essence of garlic. - Beudins of fowl, & la D’Orsay. Mutton cutlets, with purée of endives. SeconD Course. Pheasants. [2 Roasts.] Widgeon. Arrow-root Soufflé. [2 Removes. ] French gauffres. 6 Entreméts : Potatoes, au gratin. Bavarian raspberry cream (preserved) Créutes, wlth mushrooms. Timbale of Nouilles, with vanilla. Calf’s-feet jelly, with grapes. Florentines, with greengage jam. Dinner FoR 14 Persons. December. Macaroni, & la Royale. [2 Soups.] Soup of tendons of veal, b la Jardiniére, Fried fillets of gurnets, Shrimp [2 Fishes.] Soles in Matelotte Normande. sauce. Roast pheasants, &l’Italisnne. [2 Removes.] Mutton pie, & 1’ Anglaise. Muscles, fried in batter, 4 Entrées: Tendons of veal, & Ja Villeroi, with a Salmis of wild fowl, ’la Provengale. Nivernaise ragout. Fillets of beef sautés, with an essence. Supréme of fowls, & l’écarlate, with a of anchovies, purée of truffles. SECOND CouURSE. Hare. [2 Roasts, | Partridges. Soufflés of’ vanilla, in small cases, [2 /temoves.] Ginger pudding. 6 Entreméts ¢ Spinach, au jus. Pine-apple jelly. Fried potatoes, , P Flan of pears. Queen’s cakes, with apricot. Polish puff-paste cakes. FOR DECEMBER. 529 DiInNER FOR 6 Persons. December. Vermicelli clear soup. 1 Fish. Brill, with Shrimp sauce, Capon, with brocoli, a la Béchamel. [2 Removes.] Roast fillet of beef, Poivrade sauce. 2 Entrées: Purée of pheasant, with poached eggs. Scollops of sweetbreads, with Soubise sauce, SECOND COURSE. Roast partridges. 3 Entreméts : Omelette, with fine-herbs. Lemon pudding. Blanc-manger in glasses. Dinner FOR 6 Persons. December. Purée of peas, & l’Anglaise. 1 Fish. Cod, & la créme au gratin. Roast pheasant, & la Périgueux. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of pork, a Anglaise. 2 Entrees : Blanquette of fowl, garnished with po- Scollops of beef, with oysters. tato croquettes. SEconD COURSE, Roast snipes. 3 Entreméts Spinach, with poached eggs. Plumpudding. f Almond cakes, & la Chantilly. 2m 5380). BILLS OF FARE FOR DECEMBER, Dinner FoR 6 Persons. December. Purée of endives, & la créme (preserved). 1 Fish. Fillets of whitings, & la Provengale. Snipe pudding, @ la D’Orsay. [2 Removes.] Braized pheasant, with celery sauce. 2 Entrees: Chickens, 4 la Tartare. Mutton cutlets, with purée of chestnuts. Srconp CourRsE.. Roast wild duck. 3. Entreméts : Apricot omelette. Apple Charlotte. Brussels sprouts, with butter. DINNER FoR 6 Persons. ~December. Consommé, with nouilles. 1 Fish. Smelts, au gratin. Roast saddle -of mutton. (2 Removes.] Partridges, & la Soubise. “4 ae: 2 Entrees : Curry of rabbits, & ’Indienne. Ox-tail, a la Jardiniere. Srconp Coursz, Roast larks, 3 Entreméts: Potatoes souffiées, Mince pies. Orange jelly, a l’Anglaise. - BILLS.OF FARE. 5ST DINER DE 24 Couverts. Dai. ca 3 Potages: Le Printanier aux pointes, A la Tortué, 3 Poissons : Le Saumon a la Regence. La Bisque de Prawns, Le Turbot & la sauce homard. Les White Bait frits. 4 Assiéttes de Hors-d Qeuvres: 2 de rissoles & la Monglas. 2 de petites créustades de laitances. 2 Relevés: La Téte de Veau & la Financitre, Le Filet de Beuf piqnié, garni de laitues farcies. 2 Flancs: Les Langues a la Macédoine. Les petits poulets a la Vertpre. 8 Entrées: La Bordure de riz & la Reine. Le Paté Chaud de Cailles. La Timbale 4 la Milanaise. ' La Chartreuse & la Parisiénne. Les Filets de pigeons & Ja Duchesse. La Blanquette aux Concombres, Les Ris de Veau & la Toulouse. Les Cételettes d’agneau aux asperges, SEconpD SERVICE. 2 Réis: Les Poulardes. 2 Relevés: Le Savarin. 2 Manes: Le Bastion d’auguilles sur Socle. 16 Entreméts : Les Haricéts verts au beurre, Les Asperges & la sauce. La Grosse meringue & la Chantilly Le Croqu’en’bouche d’oranges. Le Bavaroix de Groseilles vertes, La Gélée de Champagne rosé. L’ Aspic d’CQkufs de pluviers, Les Canetons. La Spongada di Roraa. - La Galantine sur Socie. Les Asperges & la sauce. Les Haricéts verts au beurre, La Croquante de patiences. Le Chateaubriant. La Gelee de fraises, Le Bavaroix en Surprise. L’ Aspic d’(Eufs de pluviers. 532 BILLS OF FARE. Concert SuprPer. June. 2 Soups: La créme d’orge. Le consommé de volaille. 24 Entrées : 6 of cold roast fowls, with aspic-jelly. 3 lobster salads. 6 of ham and tongue, with aspic-jelly. 3 chicken salads. 3 aspics of plovers’ eggs. 12 Dishes of Pastry: 2 of strawberry tartlets. 2 of D’Artois cakes. 2 of Genoese cakes with almonds, 2 of Duchess loaves. 2 of Meringues, & la créme. 2 of Chocolate profitrolles. 12 Jellies and Creams: 2 Macédoines of fruits. 2 Russian Charlottes, 2 Celestina Charlottes. 2 pine-apple jellies. 2 cherry jellies. 2 Italian creams. BILLS OF FARE. 533 DINER DE 24 Couverts. Jum. 3 Potages : ‘A ’Impératrice. A la purée de pois verts. A 1l’Esturgeon & la Chinoise, 8 Poissons: Le Turoot a la Vatel. Les ''ruites a la Beaufort. Le Water-Souchet de Limandes, , + 4 Hors-d’(Huvres : 2 de Niochi au Parmésan. 2 de White Bait frits. 2 Relieves: Le Jambon & la Parisiénne. Les Poalardes & la Chivry. 2 Flancs: La petite piece de Boeuf & la d’Orléans. La Selle d’agneau a la Royale. 8 Entrées - Les Boudins de homard Cardinal. Les Ris @’agneau & la Toulouse. Les Filets de Canetons aux petits pois. La Chartreuse de Cailles. Le Vol-au-vent & la Nésle. Le Supréme de volaille asperges. Les Noisettes de Veau & la de Luynes. Les Cételettes de mouton a la Dreux. SECOND SERVICE. L’Oisillon. Les Levrauts. 2 Flanes: La Spongada Napolitana. 16 Entreméts : Les Asperges 4 la sauce. Les petits pois & l’Anglaise. _ L’Aspic de homard sur socle. Les Qiufs de pluviers sur socle. La Gélée & la Montmorency. La Charlotte d’ananas. Le Croqu’en-bouche a la Reine. Le Melon en Nougat. Le Jambon en surprise. Les Asperges & la sauce. ‘Les petits pois & la Frangaise. L’Aspic & la Belle-vue sur socle. Le Buisson de prawns sur socle. La Gélée Macédoine. Le Bavaroix au Chocolat. Le Gateau de Millefeuilles. Le Biscuit 4 la Florentine, 534 BILLS OF FARE, Her Masesty’s Dinner. 25th January, 1841. (Under the control of C. Francatellt.) Potages: ‘A la Téte de Veau en Tortué. De Quenelles de Volaille au Consommé. Poissons : Le Saumon, % la sauce homard. Les Soles frites, sauce Hollandaise. Relevés: Le Filet de Boeuf, piqué braisé aux pommes de terre. Le Chapon @ la Godard. Entrées: Le Bord de pommes de terre, garni de Palais de Boeuf. La Chartreuse de Perdrix aux Choux. Les Cotelettes d’Agneau panées. La Blanquette de Volaille & l’écarlate. Les Laperaux, sautés aux fines herbes. Les Petits Pateés aux huitres. Réts : Les Poulets. Les Faisans. Relevés : Le pudding & l’Orange. Les Omelettes Soufflées. © Entreméts : Les pommes de terre & la Strasbourgeoise.. Les Epinards au jus. La Gelée de Marasquin. Les Petites Talmouses. Les Feuillantines de Pommes. La Créme aux Amandes Pralinées. Buffet. , Roast Beef and Mutton. Boiled Round of Beef. - BILLS OF FARE. 535 Her Masusry’s Dinner: 30h June, 1841. (Under the control of C. Francatelli.) | 4 Potages: | Printannier. A la Reine. 2 a la Tortué, ; 4 Poissons : Les Truites & la sauce Génévoise. Le Turbot @ la sauee homard, Les Filets de merlans frits. Les white-bait frits. 4 Hors @’euvres : Les Petits patés de homards, 4 Releves : ; Les Poulardes traffées & la sauce Perigueux. Le Jambon glac¢ garni de féves de marais, La Selle d’agneau farcie & la Royale. Le Filet de Beeuf pique & la Napolitaine. 16 Entrees: 2 Les Nageoires de Tortué sauce au vin de Madére. 2 Les Filets de poulets & l’écarlate aux concombres, 2 Les Cételettes de mouton braisées a la purée d’artichauds. 2 Les Aiguillettes de canetons aux pois verts. 2 Les Riz de veaux piques glacés a la Toulouse. 2 Les Cotelettes de pigeons panées & l Allemande. 2 Les Chartreuse de tendons d’agneau & |’essence. 2 Les Timbales de macaroni @ la Mazarine. Side Board: Haunch of Venison. Roast Beef, Roast Mutton. Vegetables. SECOND SERVICE. 6 Réts: 2 de Cailles. 2 Lévrauts. 2 de Poulets. 6 Relevés: 2 Les puddings & la Nesselrode, 2 Les soufflés & la fécule de 2 Les puddings de Cabinet. pommes de terre. . 2 Flanes: Le Pavillon Mauresque. La Tente Militaire. 4 Contre-Flancs : Le Nougat aux amandes. Le Biscuit de Savoie a la vanille La Sultane Parisienne. Le Croque-en-bouche historié. 16 Entreméts, Les trfiffes au vin de Champagne. Les petits pois & la Francaise. Les artichauts @ la Lyonnaise. Les haricéts verts 4 la poulette. Le Buisson de prawns sur socle. L’aspie de blanes de volaille & la Belle-vue. L’anguilles en volute au beurre de La salade de legumes 4 I’Italiéane. Montpellier. La Macédoine de fruits. La gelée de groseilles garnie de Le Bavaroix de chocolat panaché. éches. La créme aux amandes prdlinées. Les tartelettes de framboises. Les petits pains & la Parisiénne. Les Génoises aux fruits trans- Tes gateaux de Péthiviers, parents. 536 -s§BILLS OF FARE, Her Maszsty’s Dryner. 15th August. ( Under the control of C, Franeatelli. ) Potages: A la créute gratinée a la Sévigné. A la purée de Gélinottes. A la Créme de Riz garni de quenelles au beurre d’Ecrivisses. / } Poissons : Le Brochet garni d’une Matelotte d’ Anguilles. Les Filets de Merlans frits. Les Truites sauce a la Pliche. Relevés: Les Poulardes, au Macaroni. Le Gigot de Mouton de sept heures. Le Jambon aux Petits Pois. Les Queux de Beufs & la Jardiniére. Entrees : Les Cotelettes d’Agneau sautées aux Concombres, Les Filets de Lapereaux panés & |’ Allemande. Les Cervelles de Veau marinees frites sauce Tomates. Les Escalopes de Gélinottes aux Tritffes. Les Ris de Veau aux Petits Pois. Les Fricassée de Poulets dans un bord de Riz. Réts : Les Canetons. Les Dindonneaux Releves : Le Pudding de Sagou sauce au Fruit. Le Soufflé au Citron. Les Beignets de Péches. Flanes : Le Schapska Polonais. Le Melon en Nougat. Entreméts : Le Bastion d’Anguilles au beurre de Montpellier Le Buisson de Traffes au Vin de Champagne Tes Concombres a la poulette. Les Haricéts Verts sautés au beurre. La Gelée de Malaga. La Macédoine de Fruit. Les Tartelettes de Prines de Reine Claude ‘ Les Petits giteaux feuilletés & Y Abricét. ~ Le Pain de Gibier & la gelée. La Salade a la Russe. Les Pommes de Terre & la Maitre d’ Hotel. La Macédoine de Legumes. Le Bavaroix aux Framboises. La Créme au Café mocha. Les Pains de la Mecque & Ja Chantilly. Les Dauphines a la fieur d’Orange, Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Roast Venison. Riz au Consomme., Emincé de Poulet aux Gufs pdches. Haricéts Verts, Currant Tart. | ee BILLS OF FARE. 237 Here Maszsty’s Dinner. 16h August. ( Under the control of C. Francatelli. ) Potages: A la Cressy. A la Tortué, A la Royale. , Poissons : Le St. Pierre & la sauce Homard. Les Filets de Soles & la ravigotte. Les Gougeons frits sauce Hollandaise. Le Saumon sauce aux Capres. Relevés : La Pitce de Beeuf & la Flamande. Les Poulardes et Langue aux Choux Le Paté-chaud de Pigeons & |’ Anglaise. tieurs. La Noix de Veau en Bédeau. ; Entrées: - Les Cételettes de Mouton a la purée d’Artichauts. Les Boudins de Lapereaux & la Richelieu. Les Pieds d’Agneau en Canelons farcis & I’Italienne. Les Filets de Poulardes & la Régence. Les Tendons de Veau glacés & la Macédoine. Les Petites Timbales de Nouilles & la purée de Gélinottes. Rots: Les Combatiants. Les Chapons. L’Oie. Relevés et Le Pudding de Riz. Le Baba au Rhum. Les Beignets au Parmesan. Flanes : La Cascade ornée de sucre filé. La Chaumiére rustique. Entreméts : La Darne d’Esturgeon au beurre de Montpellier. Le Buisson d’ Ecrivisses. Les Petits Pois & la Frangaise. Les Haricéts Verts & la Maitre d’hétel. La Gelée au Vin de Champagne. La Créme au Caramel. ; Les Petits Gateaux de Créme & l’Anglaise. La Tourte de Péches. L’Aspic de Volaille & la Belle-vue. Les Fonds d’Artichauts & la Provengale. Les Concombres farcis 2 1’Essence. Les Choux-fleurs 2 la sauce. Le Bavaroix de Fraises. La Gelée de Péches. Les Tartelettes de Cerises. Le Gateau de Péthiviers. Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Hashed Venison, Riz au Consommé, Plum and Yorkshire Puddings. 538 BILLS OF FARE. ; ’ Her Magesrx’s Dinner. 20th August. (Under the control of C, Francatelli. ) Potages : A la Tortué. A la Faubonne. A la Xavier, Poissons ¢ Le Saumon ciselé sauce Homard. Les Eglefins sauce aux cufs. Les Merlans frits sauce Hollandaise. Relevés : Le Jambon de Westphalie aux Haricots Verts. La Piéce de Beuf & la Mazarine. Les Poulardes a la Belle-vue sauce Supréme. L’Oie braisée garnie de racines. Entrées: Les Cételettes de Mouton & la purée de Pommes de Terre. Les Ballottines de Volailles & la Jardiniére, Les Fricandeaux glacés & la purée de Pois. Les Ailerons de Poulets panés 4 la Villeroy. Les Petites Créustades a la purée de Gélinottes., Les Boudins @ la Reine. Rots: Wheatears. Gélinottes. Poulets. Releves: Les Beignets Soufilés au citron. Le Pudding roulé & )’Allemande. Le Pudding Bavaroix. Flanes : Les Canards & la Chantilly. La Gondole Vénitiénne. Entreméts : Les Anguilles en bastion. L’ Aspic de Galantine. Les Ecrivesses au Vin. Les Trfiffes & la serviétie. Les Artichauts & la Provengale. Les Petits Pois 4 J’ Anglaise. La Macédoine de Légt.mes. Les Haricéts Verts 4 la Maitre d’hdtel. La Gelée de Péches. Le Bavaroix de Framboises. La Charlotte Russe. La Chartreuse de Poires, ~ Les Tartelettes de Cerises & la Créme. Les Petits Puits d’Amour. Les Génoises au Confitures, Les Dauphines aux Pistaches. Side-Board: Roast Beef. Haunch of Venison. Roast Mutton. Riz au Consommé, Marrow on Toast. BILLS OF FARE. 539 Her Maszsty’s Dinner. August. ( Under the control of C. Francatclti,) Potageés : De Queneiles au Consommé. A la purée de Gélinottes. A la Garbure aux Laitues. Poissons : Les Brochets farcis au four, Les Anguilles & la Tartare. Les Carrés de Venaison en Chevaux-de-frize. Le Turbot sauce Homard. Relevés: Entrées : Les Petits Ponlets aux choufleurs, Les Poitrine d’Agneau & la Dauphine. Les Blanquettes de Volaille aux Concombres. Les Boudins de Volaille & la Sefton. Les Chartreuses de Tendons de Veau. Les Petits Patés aux huitres. Rots: ; Les ]évrauts. Les Dindonneaux. Wheatears. Relevés: Les Gauffres 4 la Flamande. Le Pudding Soufflé au Citron. Eintreméts : La Darne Saumon 4 la remoulade. La Salade a la Russe. Le Macaroni & I’Italiénne. Les Ciufs & 1 Aurore. Les Artichauts @ la Lyonnaise. Les Haricéts Verts a la poulette. La Gelée de Citron garnie de Prines vertes. Le Bavaroix 4 la Canelle. Les Feuillantines aux Pommes. Le Flan de Fruit. Les Petits Biscuits aux Amandes. Les Péches au Riz & la Condé, Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Hashed Venison. Riz aa Consommé. Petits Péts de Volaille. Greengage Tart. Le Paté de Pigeons & I’ Anglaise a0 BILLS OF FARE. Her Masesty’s Dinner. 17th September. (Under the control of C. Francatelli.) Potages: 3 A la Purée de Volaille. A la Xavier. Poissons ¢ Les Tranches de Cabillaud aux huitres. Les Eperians frits sauce Hollandaise. Relevés: Les noix de Veau & la Jardiniétre. Le Jambon glacé aux Epinards. 2 Entrées: Le Haricét de Venaison. Les Perdreaux braisés & la soubise. Les Boudins de Volaille a Ja Sefton. Les Petits Filets de Boeuf dans leur glace. Les Tendons de Veau en kari. La Poularde poéllée sauce Supréme. Les Aiguillettes de Poulets & la chicorée. Les Filets de Soles en Epigramme. Rots : Les Gélinottes. Le Lievre. Les Dindonneaux. Relevés : Les Beignets de Créme frite. La Charlotte de Pommes. Entreméts : La Gelée d’Ananas. Le Pain de Péches & Ja Chantilly, Les Gateaux & la Religieuse. Les Madeleines au Cédrat. Les Pommes de Terre & la créme. Les Choux-fleurs & la sauce. Les Gufs & l Aurore. Les Huitres frites. Les Coupes garnies de Partisserie. Side-Board : Roast Beef. Roast Venison. Roast Mutton. Marrow on Toast. Riz au Consommé, BILLS OF FARE, Her Maszsty’s Dinner. 18th September. (Under the control of C. Francatelti.) ; Potages : A la Cressy aux Crofitons. A la Royale. Poissons : Les Eglefins sauce aux CEufs. Les Harengs sauce moutarde, Relevés : Le Filet de Bef brais¢ aux laitues. Les Petits Poulets en Galantine, Entrées: Les Cételettes de Porc frais sauce Tomates., Les Boudins de Merlans & la Béchamel. Les Croquettes de Volaille & l’Allemande, Les Palais de Beeuf au gratin. La Fricassée de Poulets & la Villeroy. Le Sauté de Perdreaux & la Bourguignotte, Les Cervelles de Veau au beurre noir. Les Créustades de Mouton aux fines herbes, Réts: Les Perdreaux. Les Poulardes. ; Relevés : Les Croquettes de Riz sauce au fruit. Le Soufflé au Citron. Entreméts : Les Concombres & |’Espagnole. Les Epinards au jus. Les Giufs brouillés aux Triffes. La Salade & la Russe. Le Pudding a la D’Orléans. La Gelée de Fruits. Le Flan de Poires. Les Meringues & la Chantilly. Les Cassolettes garnies de Patisserie, Side Board : Roast Beef. : Roast Venison. Roast Mutton. Riz au Consommé, 542 BILLS OF FARE. Her Maszsty’s Dinner. 19th September. (Under the control of C. Francatelli.) Potages : A Ja Purée de Perdreaux. Au Vermicelli clair. , Poissons : Les Filets de Brochets panés & Il’ Allemande. Le Turbot sauce Homard, Releves : Les Filets de Mouton piqués & la Jardiniére. La Téte de Veau en ‘Tortué. Entrées: Les Cételettes d’agneau & la chicorée. Les Poulets 4 1’ Allemande. La Supréme de Volaille aux Concombres. Le Filet de Beufau Madére. Les Gélinottes braisées aux Choux, Les Boudins de Volaille & la Reine. ie Vol-au-vent & la Nésle. Les Filets de Perdreaux & la Maréna. Réts : Le Chapon. Lee Gélinottes. Relevés : Le Pudding de Farine de Riz. Les Pommes Meringuées. Flanes : Les Piéces montées. Entreméts : La Salade de Homards. Les Triffes a la Serviétte. Les Haricéts Verts a la poulette. Les Choux-fleurs au. Parmesan, La Gelée de Marasquin. La Timballe de Raisins garnie d’un Bavaroix. Le G&teau de Créme a la moélle. La Charlotte de Péches a l’Abricot. *Side Board: Roast Beef. Boiled Round of Beef. Roast Mutton. Hashed Venison. Riz au Consommeé. BILLS OF FARE, 543 Her Maszsty’s Dinner. 21st September. (Under the control of C. Francatelli.) Fotages: A la Purée de Volaille. A la Brdnoise. Poissons . Le Saumon sauce au persii. Les Harengs, sauce Moutarde, Le St. Pierre, sauce Homard. Les Eperlans frits. Relevés : Le Rond de Vean, » I’Anglaise. Le Jambon glacé aux haricéts verts. ——} Flanes : Les Petits Poulets, au gros scl, Les Filets de Mouton, & la Jardiniére. ee Entrées: Les Poitrines d’Agneau, & la purée de pommes de terre. Les Perdreaux, 4 la Périgueux. Les Kromeskys de Volaille, a la Russe. L’Emincé de Beeuf, & la Polonaise. Les Ris de Vean, a la Financiére. Les Petites Quenelles de Volaille. Les Amourettes frites, sauce Tomates. Les Petits Vol-au-Vent, aux huitres. Rots: Les Poulardes. Les Perdreaux. Relevés : Les Omelettes souffiées, & la fleur d’Orange. Le Pudding Bavaroix. Entreméts : Les Epinards au jus. Les Pommes de Terre frites, La Gelée de Pieds de Veau au Vin. Les Fenchonettes, 2 I’ Abricot. La Charlotte, & la Parisienne. Le Gateau de Compiégne. Les Homards au gratin. La Salade de Volaille. La Créme au Caramel. Les Nougats de Pommes au Citron. La Gelée de Fruits. La Grosse Meringue, & 1a Chantilly. Les Corbeilles garnies de Noix. Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton, Haunch of Venison. Riz au Consomme. f Hashed Venison. a44 BILLS OF FARE.- Her Masnsry’s Dryner. 24th October. (Under the control of C. Francatelii,) Potages : A la Purée de Pois aux Créutons. Au Macaroni clair. Poissons : Le Turbot 4 la sauce Homard. Les Eperlans frits sauce Hollandaise. Relevés : Le Filet de Benf, piqué sauce Poivrade. _—_ Les Faisans, & la Financitre. Entreés: Les Ris de Veau piqués, alasauce Tomates. Les Epaules de Liévres, en civet. La Fricassée de Pouiets, & la Villeroy. Les Filets de Soles, aux Huitres. Les Carbonnades de Mouton, ala Macédoine. Les petits Poulets, aux Riz. Réts: Les Mauviéttes. Les Dindonneaux. Releves: Le Soufflé, & la fécule. Les Gauffres, & la Flamande. Entreméts: Les Artichauts, a la Barigoule. Le Blanc-Manger. Les Salsifis, & PEspagnole. Les Gateaux de Pommes. La Gelée d’Ananas garnie. Les Darioles, & la Fleur d’Orange. Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Hashed Venison. Riz, au Consommé. aera BILLS OF FARE, 545 Her Masesty’s Dinner. 25th October. (Under the control of C. Francatelli.) Potages: A la Bisque d’ Ecrevisses. Au Vermicelle clair. Poissons : Les Eglefins, 4 la sauce aux Cufs. Les Soles frites, sauce aux Anchois. Relevés : Le Jambon aux Epinards. Le Filet de Veau, & l’ Anglaise. Entrées: Le Salmi de Coqs de Bruyére. Les Fileis de Mouton piqués sauce Tomates, Le Supréme de Volaille, a ? Ecarlate. Les Petites Créustades, 4 la purée de Faisans, Les Tanches farcies au Vin de Sauterne. Les Ris de Veau, a la Dauphine. Rots: Les Bécassines. Les Poulets. Releveés : Le Pudding de Sémoule, & l’Abricét. Les Canelons frits, garnis de Framboises Entreméts: Les Pommes de Terre, & la Hollandaise Les Gufs brouillés aux Triffes. La Gelée de Fruits. Les Gateaux, & l Anglaise. Les Pains de la Mecque. Le Bavaroix, & la Vanille. Side Board: Roast Beef. Haunch of Venison. Riz au Consommé, Plum and Yorkshire Puddings. 2N 546 BILLS OF FARE. Her Masssty’s Dinner. October 26th. (Under the control of C. Francatellt.) Potages : De Queues de Boeuf aux racines. A la bonne femme. < Poissons. ~ Le Turbot, & la sauce Homard. Les Filets de Brochets 4 la Dauphine. Relevés : La Piéce de Boeuf braisée, 2 la Flamande. La Dinde rotie aux saucisses. Entrées : Les Escalopes de Mouton aux fines-herbes. La Blanquette de Volaille, & l Ecarlate. Les Crépinettes de Faisans, a Il’ Hssence. Le Fricandeau glacé, & la chicorée. Les petits vols’au’vent, & la Béchamel. Les ailerons de poulardes, & la Macédoine. Rots s Les Faisans. Les Gélinottes. Relevés : Les tartelettes souffiées, & la d’Artois. Le Baba au raisin. Entreméts : Les choux de Bruxelles au beurre. Les salsifis en Magnonnaise. La gelée de citron. Le bavaroix de Marasquin. Le pudding de cabinet. Les nougats de pommes. Side Board: Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Hashed Venison. Riz au Consommé., INDEX. ‘ *.* The number refers to the Article, unless otherwise expressed. Alpert sauce, 46, Allemande sauce, 7. Almond cakes, 1297, : gauffres, 1284, 9», paste, 1258. », another method, 1259. American yams, & la Francaise, 1187. Anchovies, essence of, 176, Ancnovy sandwiches, 1213. » sauce, 72, Apple Charlotte, 1447, another way, 1448. ie & la Marialva, 1448. ‘a fritters, 1332. » pudding, 1402. », tart with quince, 1329, » tartlets, 1322. », | another method, 1323. Apples and rice, ornamented, 1351. e plain, 1352. a # la ’Portuguaise, 1354, ” ”? another method, 1355. ” ona the form of a porcupine, 1354, », Parisian turnover of, 1305, Apricot Bavarian cream, 1433, / 4, Charlotte, 1452. 5, cheese, & la Chantilly, 1443, » nougats, 1310. » souffié, 1378. Apricots, German tourte of, 1304. Aromatic sauce, 34, », _ Spices for seasoning, 1250, Artichoke-bottoms, garnish’ of, 153. Artichokes, purée of, 117. a6 with butter sauce, 1165, re % la Barigoule, 1166, “i & l’Italienne, 168. ee Jerusalem, ‘with white sauce, 1183 " a & VItaliénne, 1184. ‘5 & la Lyonnaise, 1167. purée of, 126. Asparagus- -heads, garnish of, 147, m4 peas, & la créme, 1170. . garnish of, 148, # purée of, 118. es with white sauce, 1169. Aspic of fowl, & la Reine, 1229, Aspic-jelly, essence of 172. Aspic-jelly, or savoury jelly, 1218. Atelet sauce, 36. Aurora sauce, 41. Baba, or Polish-cake, 1270. Badminton sandwich, 124la, Béchamel sauce, 5. cream sauce, 6. Beef, ’praized roll of, & ’Y Allemande, 542, . f & la Claremont, 545. ala Dauphinoise, 049, & la Flamande, 539. & la Milanaise, 547, a la D’Orléans, 546. a la Polonaise, 541. ala Richelieu, 548, a la Royale, 543. a Ja Windsor, 544, . garnished, 550, e braized rump of, 551. al Allemande, 556. ” ” ? a la Printaniére, 540 4 boiled brisket of, & 1’ Anglaise, 564, Pe & ’Ecarlate, 565. »» stewed brisket of, & la Flamande, 566, » edgebone of, & l'Anglaise, 567. » fillet of, & la J ardiniére, 954. & la Macédoine, 553. & la Milanaise, 558. & la Napolitaine, 552. dressed roebuck-fashion, 555. ag i with Madeira sauce, 557, », braized fillet of, & la Nivernaise, 560, br 4 la Royale, 561. », fillets of, dressed plain, 563, », fillets or scollops of, in their own glaze, 808 with oysters or muscles, 808. with olives, truf- fles, or gher- kins, 808. with purées of ve- getables, 808. with vegetable garnishes, 80& » Toast fillet of, & Anglaise, 559. ” +: hla Parisiénne, 562, & la Provengale, 563, 2N 2 & 548 Beet, stewed ribs of, & la Chasseur, 570. braized ribs of, & la Piémontaise, 571. small ribs of, & la Mode, 572. a la Bourgeoise, 573. ribs of, with Madeira sauce, 574, is a la Baden, 575. boiled round of, & l’Anglaise, 568. 5 a la Chasseur, 569. entrees of, 244. minced, with poached eggs, 809. 3 & la Portuguaise, 810. hashed, plain, 811. .. ~ and broiled bones, 812. slices of braized, & la.Claremont, 813. with sharp sauce, 813. with macaroni, 813, with purées of vege- tables, 813. Beefsteak, & la Francaise, 8(6. plain, 805. with anchovy butter, 807, with Indian pickles, &e., (807. Beef-tea, 226, Beurre-noir, or black-butter sharp sauce, 93. sigarrade sauce, 33. Biscuits, glacés, in small cases, 1347, is another way, 1460a, Albert, 12980. apricot, 12987. champagne, 1298f, Italian, 1298a. orange, 12989. peach, 1298h, Russian, 1298n. Sicilian, 1298m. Venetian, 12986. Victoria, 1298p, Black- puddings, 4 la Francaise, 955. a l Anglaise, 956. Black currant-jelly sauce for venison, 66. Black-game, & la Financiere, 751. a VItalienne, 7 48, 2 la Montagnarde, 747. a la Norwégienne, 791. a la Paysaune, 750. a la Périgueux, 751. a la Soubise, 751, & la Suedoise, 749, ‘ with a purée of celery, 751. Blane, or white braize, for calves’-heads, 236, Blanquette of lambs’ sweetbreads, 235. of rabbits, a l’Kearlate, 1061. is of sturgeon, 1118. 99 of veal, with mushrooms, 899. Blond de veau, or veal gravy, 222. Boar’s-head sauce, 103. os another method, 104, > with aspic-jelly, 1236. Boiied marinade, 234, Bordelaise sauce, 57, Border of potato-paste, garnished with scol- lops of larks, 1782. ” 99 9 ” 29 Pascaline, 783, INDEX. with lamb’s-feet, & la Border of potato-paste, with scollops of ox- palates, a I’ Indi- enne, 784. with scollops of sheep’s-tongues, 785. ” with calf’s-brains, a la Ravigotte, 786. Borders of potato-paste, for entrées, &c., 82, 29 Borsch, or Polish soup, 380. Bouchées of fowl, a la Pompadour, 1010. Boudins of partridges, a la D’Orsay, 1092 a la Printaniere, 1093. of fowls, & la D’ Artois, 1007, a2 la Périgueux, 1005, a la Reine, 2009. a la Richelieu, 1094, a la Sefton, 1006. a la Soubise, 1008. Bouillabaisse, or Provengale soup, 379. Bourguignotte sauce, 28. Braize for general purposes, 230. Brawn sauce, 105. Bread- panada for quenelles, 240, Bread sauce, 80, »,_ fried, sauce, 81. Bredby sandwich, 12410. Brétonne sauce, 27. Brill, method of dressing, 419, Brioche-paste, 1269. Brocoli, garnish of, 155. Broth, crayfish, for purifying the blood, 227. Mucilaginous, for persons in delicate health, 229, mutton, plain, 225, pectoral chicken, 224, plain chicken, 223. snail, for inveterate coughs, 328, Broths, medicinal, for invalids, 223. Brown-bread biscuits, 1298d. ‘ », Italian sauce, 12. », gravy, for roast veal, 82, Brussels-sprouts, garnish of, 156. for a second-course dish 1192, biscottes, or rusks, 1289, | Bubble- -and-squeak, 814, | Butter, Anchovy, 179, Crayfish, 184, Epicurean, for the table, 186. Green-ravigotte, 185, Lobster, 182, | Montpellier, 183, Provengale, 181, Ravigotte, 180. sauce, 70. for asparagus, &c., 71. ” ” wa ~~ ” Cabbages, garnish of braized, 162, 5 stewed red, 163. Cabinet pudding, 1394. Cake, Compiégne, 1271 ginger, 1298e. ” Sake, Parisian, 1273. »» plain seed, 1279. », pound, 1281. ‘3 ane 1274a., Ha. wavoy, 1275, Vietoria, 1274. 5» plum, or wedding, 1277. | INDEX. | DAO | Casserole of rice, & la Reine, 779. be garnished with a purée of game, 780. As garnished with wings of fowls, 781. 5 with fricassée of chickens, 230. y with blanquette «of sweet- Calf’ s-brains, with matelotte sauce, 921. cs with nutbrown butter, 922. 99 fried, a la Provengale, 923. i = scolloped, 924, Calf’s-ears, & la Tortué, 915, » fried, with Tomata sauce, &c., | 916, | Caif’s-feet, & la Pascaline, 917. fried, with Italian sauce, 918. Calf? s-head, a V Anglaise, 624. + ala Beauvaux, 627. Pr a la Financieére, 626. A & la Marigny, 629. a a la Tortué, 628. plain, with piquante sauce, 625. Calf’s-liver, braized, with vegetables, 919. fried, with fine-herbs sauce, 920. Calf’s-udder, prep. of, for forcemeats, 242. Cambridge sauce, 94. Caper sauce, for fish, 90. for boiled mutton, 91. Capilotade of chickens, & 1’ Italitnne, 986. Capon, stuffed with truffles, 4 666. » a1’ Anglaise, 669. »» la Chipolata, 668. la Périgord, » &l)Estragon, 675. », ala Godard, 667. » _ 2)’ Ivoire, 673. », ala Jardiniére, 670. 9) with macaroni, 678, », ala Macédoine, 671. 5, ala Milanaise, 677, » with nouilles, 679. 5 la Printaniére, 672. »» With rice, 676. au gros sel, 674. Cardinal sauce. 48. Carp, a l’Allemande, 517. » wla Bourguignotte, 514. », la Chambord, 512, » ala Périgueux, 515. », la Provengale, 516. » ala Royale, 513. », fried, & la Venitienne, 518, », small, fried, eit stewed, aL ‘Angl aise, 519, Carrots, young, a l’A lemande, 1178, an a la Suédoise, for garnishing re- moves. 749, cf garnish of, in olives, &c., 135. - young, garnish of, 134, “ i ala Flamande, 142. i. purée of, for cutlets, &c., 108. Po and turnips, garnish of, ‘ala Niver- naise, 137. Casserole, or border of rice, 777. Casserole of rice, & la Polonaise, 778. | breads, 23.!. with scollops of game, 230. Cauliflowers, purée of, for cutlets, &e., 111. “ garnish “of, for entrées, &e., 155, re with white sauce, 1158. i with Parmesan, au gratis, 1159, Celery, purée of, garnishing entrées, 110. » garnish of, & la créme, 140. 9 s a l’Espagnole, 141. » braized, & l’Espagnole, 1151. Me a la Villeroi, 1152. Char, ala Beaufort, 496, veut 1a Génoise, 493. », ala Hollandaise, 495. », in Matelotte, 494. Charlotte of apples, 1447. me another way, 1448. 55 a la Parisienne, 1449. a al’ Allemande, 1450, of peaches, 4 la Frangaise, 1451 Chartreuse, i la Belle-vue, 791, 55 a Ja Cardina, 792. A 2 la Parisienne, 790. Fe of vegetables, garnished with : partridges, 787. garnished with quails, 788. with tendons of veal, 789. with scollops of pheasant, 789 with blanqué :e of fowl, 789. * ‘a with lambs’ sweetbreada, 789, Cherry-bread,: 1386. Cherry-sauce, 62. a la Victoria, 64. Cherry tartlets, 1 1324, Cheese-cakes, 1300. Cheese, apricot, & la Chantiliy, 1443, » greengage, &c., 1443. Chestnut pudding, 1399. Chestnuts, purée of, for cutlets, &c., 115. » _ garnish of, for a roast turke: J, 157 Chevreuil sauce, for roebuck, 69. Chickens, a I’ Atri icaine, 692, ” ala Algéritnne, 98], a ala Allemande, 690. ~ 9 a la Cardinal, 689. $3. 2 la Chivry, 687, 3 a la Dauphine, 684, -f a la Diable, 979. » a1]Espagnole, 694, 550 Chickens, 3 la Florentine, 688, 982. AS & l’Undiénne, 691. ” a l’Italiénne, 681. a la Lyonnaise, 978. & la Milanaise, 686. - 4 la Montmorency, 685. ula Provengale, 977. a a la Reine, 680, % a la Tartare, 980 a la Tusque, 693. + ala Vénitiénne, 683. *9 with Tomata sauce, 682. a fricassée of, with mushrooms, &c., 968. a5 a" & la St. Lambert, 969. . & la Dauphine, 970, 9 . ie a la Financiere, 971. “4 ” a la Chevaliere, 972. 99 3% la Romaine, 973. ° (eut up in smail] joints), & la Ma- rengo, 974. ” with oysters, &¢c., 975, 1 with truffles, &c., "976, a fritot of, 985. 9° & la Toscane, 987. ‘a marinade of, fried in batter, 988. ae salad, 1225. » la Belle-vue (cold entrée), 1237. Civet of hare, 1070. » roebuck, 967. 43 venison, 960. Claremont sauce, 58. Clarification of calf’s-feet jelly, 1408. Cockles, scolloped, 538. Cod-fish, fillets of, & l’Indienne, 446. », Slices of, & la Séville, 445. » scollops of, a la Béchamel, 450. », and oyster sauce, 441. », ~ stuffed and baked, 442. ,, 2» la créme, au gratin, 443. », crimped slices of, and Ale sauce, 444 a la Hollandaise, 447, a la Colbert, 448. a la Maitre d’Hotel, 451, in matelotte Nor- mande, 449. 9 ”? (Jod’s-head, baked, 452. Vod’s-sounds, and egg sauce, 461. as a la Gasconne, 463. os a la Ravigotte, 462. a la Royale, 464. Gold marinade for pickling roebuck, &c., 235. Qold Poivrade sauce, 102 Gommon stock, for general purposes, 1. gravy, for roasts, &c., 221. ‘onsominé for preparing soups in general, 13, FA of fowls, for soups, &c., 214, 9 of pheasants or partridges 4 (brown), 215. (white), 218. 3 of fowl (white) for working sauces, 217. a of rabbits (brown), 216. INDEX. Condés, 1307. Coventry tartlets, 1328. Crayfish sauce, 54, Crayfish, scolloped, 538, Cream, Apricot, 1433. ” Blane-manger, 1430. » Caramel, or burnt, 1436, + Celestina strawberry, 1441, s Chocolate, 1435. “1 Coffee, 1434. + Curagao, 1431. : Currant and raspberry transparent, 1442. ” Italian, 1439. ” Marasehino Bavarian, 1431. i. Noyeau (pink or white), 1431. + Orange-flower, 1437, Be Pistachio-kernels, 1438. 3 Russian Charlotte. 1440. >> Strawberry, Bavarian, 1432. s» 2 la Chateaubriant, 14410. a la Romaine, 1441 % | Cream sauce, for roast necks of veal, 83, for salt fish, 92. Croquante of oranges, 1358, A of fresh walnuts, 1359, 5 of ratafias, & la Chantilly, 1360. Croquettes of fowl and mushrooms, 1020. ae of veal, 896. Créustade of bread, garnished with calves’ tails, 3 ala Poulette, 794. is garnished with lambs’-brains, 795, " with scollops of fat livers, a ?Epi- curienne, 796. e Mere a la Bourguignotte, cases, | for patties, 1265. Cucumbers, purée of, 124. ” scollops. of, for garnishing, 138 ” garnish of, farcis, 139, ” ala Poulette, 1181. a VEspagnole, 1182. Cupid, or love’s wells, 1315. Curry sauce (plain), 87, of chickens, a l’Indiénne, 983. Cys nets, 202. ES a la Norwich, 202c. Dampfnudeln, or German dumplings, 1390. Darioles, 1306. Dame of Salmon, with Montpellier butter, 23. i D’ Artois, of apricot-jam, 1309. Duchess-loaves, 1292. Ducks, | for removes, 703. » la Macédoine, 703, » braized,with turnips, 704, with stewed peas, 705, a la Provengale, 706. a la Jardiniere, 706. a la Nivernaise, 706. with olives, 706, with sauérkraut, 706, », . for entrées, 1035. Ducklings, 3 a la Rouennaise, 1035, Se a a — "7 va ; i Oh ee oe aaa.) | . P ~~ ie % ry 4 INDEX. Ducklings, stewed with olives, 1036. 3 with stewed peas, 1037. * fillets of, a la Bigarrade, 1038. Macédoine, 1039. 3? 5 with ‘truffles and mushrooms 1040. Dutch sauce, 42. plain, 79. D’Uxelles sauce, 16. Eels, spitchcocked, 50]. », Plain broiled, 502 5 stewed, & V Anglaise, 508. matelotte of, a la Bordelaise, 504. : a la Génoise, 506. & la Parisiénne, 505, ke te Dauphinoise, 507. a lIndienne, 511. » la Poulette, 510. » 21a Tartare, 509. ala Venitignne, 508. Eggs, a la tripe, 1193. »» augratin, 1194, brouillés, with truffles, 1195. » poached, with anchovy toast, 1200. oy % with ham, 1201. a Aurore, 1203. eet ee AD Dauphine, 1202, 2 la Suisse, 1205. with nutbrown butter, 1204. Egg sauce, 84, a another method, 85. Endive, purée of, for fricandeaux, &e., 114. Endive, a la créme, 1157. Entrées of fish, 1112. Entrée, of poudins of lobster, @ la Cardinal, 1112. », of quenelles of lobster, & la Vertpré, 9”? » ofboudins of whitings, 2 la Supréme, 1114, 4). of quenellesof whitings, 41a Princesse, 1115. y of boudins of salmon, 4 I’Italiénne, 1116. »» of quenelles¢ fsalmon, la Ravigottz. ELV +» of blanquette of sturgeon, 1118. .. Of scollops of sturgeon, with fine- herbs, 1119. » Ofcutlets ofsturgeon, & la Bourgui- gnotte, 1120, <9 tae dolphins of whitings, 4 la Pari- sitnue, 1133. » Of fillets of salmon, 41’ Aurore, 1121. a la Maintenon, 1123. a la Parisiénne, 1122. ” ” oe ” ” ” of turbot, 1124, ” 8 of gurnet, 1125. = », Of soles, a la Diéppoise, »” » ala Horly, 1130. ” ‘9 a la Maitre d’hétel, 1127, % 4 a la Provengale, 1129. ool Entrée of fillets of salmon, & la Royale, 1131. oi Hs dla Vénititmne, 1128. », of paupiéttes of soles, & la Cardinal, 1 5 ys » Of fillets of whitings, 343, ss . of trout, a la Chevaliére, 1134. < » Of mackerel, 1137, of perch, 343, Epigramme of fillets of trout, 1135. Espagnole, or brown sauce, 3, Essence of anchovies, for broiled steaks, 176, oe aspic-jelly, 172. i ae Tia for broiled meats, &c., 7 Samer for broiled partridges, "4 garlic for broiled fowls, &c., 175. . mushrooms, 169. es onions, for broiled pork, 179. » orange-zest, for wild fowl, 171, »» sage and onions, for geese, 178, $5 shalots, 167, A truffles, 168. woodcocks, 173. Extract of hare or rabbit, 220, be larks or quails, 219. Fanchonnettes, 1299. Farce, for preserving game in, 249. », Of fat-livers, for gratins, 250. Fennel sauce, 75. Filbert tartlets, 1328. Fillets of fowls, for entrées, 989. 5 a l’Ecarlate, 989. ps Supréme of, a la Toulouse, 990. ‘. yy with truffles, 991, i : & la Parisiénne, we: with cucumbers, & la Belle- vue, 993, Pe a la Financitre, 999. a 2 lIndiénne, 995. ce 2 la Maréchale, 996, 3 _ ala Périgord, 994, 7 & la Royale, 998, be a la D’ Uxalled 1000 i 4 Ja Valengay, 997. Finger, or Naples biscuits, 1276. Financidre sauce, 8. Fine-herbs sauce, 14. Flan of peaches, 1356. Flemish gauffres, 1282. » sauce, 89, Florentines, 1314, Flounders, fillets of, 1136. Force-meat of liver and ham, 248. French-beans, purée of cutlets, &c., 129. A garnish of, 152m a la Maitre d’Hotel, 1171. ; with fine-herbs, 1172. i rench gaufires, 1 283, ricassée of chickens, with aspic-jelly, 121$ Fritters, apple, 1332, pee gon ee INDEX. Fritters, pine-apple, 1333. Hare, cutlets of, & la Portuguaise, 1066. » orange, 1334. » entrées of, or side dishes, 1063. 9» peach, &c., 1335. », fillets of, & l Allemande, 1065. is Spanish-puffs, 1336. . pivedye Chasseur, 1064, Hr custards, 1337. a » larded, with Poivrade sauce. .. Princess, 1337a. 1063. “A Portuguese, 1337b. », scollops of, with fine-herbs, 1068. 5, Diavolini, 1337e. ala Périguenx, 1069. German, 1337d. Haricét- beans, ? » la Maitre d’ Hotel, 1185. oh a la Brétonne, 1156. 4 for fruit- fritters, 233, red, garnish of, 161. Galantine, of poulard, with aspic-jelly, | Harry the VILL.’s shoe-strings, 1320. 1235. Galantines of legs of fowls, a la Jardiniére, | Iced cake, 4 la Stanley, 1338. - 1012. », Nesselrode pudding, 1348, ¥ ip a la Financiere, », pudding, & la Cerito, 1340. 1011. re . 2 la Chesterfield, 1342. 5 . with endive, * 5 a la Duchess of Kent, 1346, stewed peas, 4 s a la Kinnaird, 1343. &e., 1011. Be a la Prince Albert, 1344. Garlic, garnish of cloves of, for "entrées of >} a la Prince of Wales, 1341 game, &c., 159. as PA a la Parisiénne, 1345. ae a a la Princess Alice, 1349 »» Tice-pudding, a la Cintra, 1339, Indian Curry-Sauce, 47. John Dory, 411. Gasconne, sauce, a la, 68. Genoese cakes, 1288. », ~ with almonds, 1289. Génoise sauce, 30. German sweet sauce, 61. Gherkin sauce, 19. Glacés au chocolat, 12982. », another way, 1298k. Godiveaux, in general, 251. Goose, & 1l’Allemande, 691. Kouglauff, or German cake, 1272. Krapfen, or German puffs, 1388. Kromeskys of fowl, & la Russe, 1019. Lamb, removes of, 614. » 2’ Anglaise, 695. », baron of, & la Jardiniére, 616, ts », 21a Dauphinoise, 699, ~ + a la Maitre d’Hétel, 617. » 2&1]’Estouffade, 696. ms ‘, a la Montmorency, 614. ; », la Flamande, 697. 3 ? & la Printaniére, 615, ; a la Normande, 700. Gooseberry sauce, 76. Grayling, 485. Green Ravigotte sauce, 21. Grey -Mullet, 485. », braized carbonnades of, 933. » breasts of, & la Maréchale, with new potatoes, 929, » cutlets, plain, with cucumbers, &c. Grouse for removes (see Black-game), 751. ss ms breail-crumbed, with aspa- Gurnet, stuffed and baked, 474, ragus-peas, 931, 5, ala Dauphine, 475. ee a a la Chévreuse, 932, + ” a la Princesse, 1238. » epigramme of, with mushrooms, 927. aS of » la Villeroi, with peas, 928, », hind-quarters of, 617. » neck of, la Régence, 926. », saddle of, & la Dauphine, 618, a » . 2 la Génoise, 476. Haddocks, fillets of, & l’Italinne, 460. as 9) vw edile Maréchale, 459. ” » ala Royale, 458. * 2 la Royale, 453. stuffed and baked, 454, “ a la Belle-vue, 455. x a a la Godard, 619. boiled with Dutch sauce, 456. a la Financiére, 620, . broiled with egg sauce, 457. | “4 » la Macédoine, 622. Ham, braized, with spinach, &c., 646, & ae a la Milanaise, 623. Fruit tarts in general, 1331. Frying-batter, for fillets of fish, &c., 232. na garnish of, for cutlets, &c., 160. | * Grenada and Bayonne, 650. a la Royale, 621. ” », Westphalia, & essence, 647. i shoulder of, iarded, & la Financiere, a8 i baked, 648. 925; i 55 roasted, & la St. James, | Lambs’ sweetbreads, ® la Toulouse, &e¢., 934 2 649, xt scolloped, 936. : = otis; a la Parisiénne, 650, ears, & la Dauphine, 939. 5, with aspic-jclly, 1228. 7 » ala Financitre, 938. Hare, cutlets of, a Wigpcieone 1067. " », ala Vénitidnne, 940. Tami ' feet, fried in batter, 9 941, feet, & la Poulette, 942, » ala D’Uxelles, 943, », ‘fried in batter, 944. head, & la Pascaline, 937. », blanquette of, 935. -Lamperns, how to dress, 133. . a la Beauchamp, 499. 9 & la Foley, 498. Lampreys, matelotte of, 497. ee 4 la Minute, 1051. _ & la Chipolata, 1052, with fine-herbs, 1053, with truffles, & l’Italiénne, 1054. 33? ” Lettucés, garnish of braized cabbage, 164. - Lobster salad, 1226. sauce, 59. 1155 » plain, 73. _y, Sscolloped, 538. Lyonnaise sauce, 24. ” Macaroni, & l’Italiénne, 1206. 43 with cream, 1207. ? au gratin, 1208. Macédoine of vegetables (white), 143. a (brown), 144, Mackerel, boiled, with fennel sauce, 477. ” ” 479. a la Génoise, 480. a l’Italienne, 480. ” ” ” Madeleines, 1290, Matelotte sauce, 31. iy Norman, sauce, 32. Mayonaise sauce, 97. green, 98. sw uredy 99. Js Ot savoury jelly, 100. of chickens, 1222. of fillets of soles, &e., 1221, a la Ravigotte, 480. ” ” ” Mazarine of whitings, a la Vénitidnne, 803. of fat livers, & la Toulouse, 804, ” Mecca loaves, 2195. ~Meringues, 1298, a la Parisiénne, 1361. with Pistachios, 1362. Millefeuilles cake, & la Chantilly, 1350, Mince-meat, 1444, lemon, 1445, royal, 1446. and grilled fowl, 308, 1013. ” ” ” », orsalpicon, for garnishing, 1021. Minced chicken,‘and poached eggs, 1015, with macaroni, 1016, with rice, 1017. ” Mirlitons, 1301. Mirepoix, for braizing larded roebuck, 237. Mosaic tartlets, 417, 1326. Mullets, in cases, with fine herbs, 481, timbale of, ala Florentine, 1209. broiled, a la Maitre d’ Hotel, 478. with nut-brown butter, fillets of, a la Maitre @ Hotel, 480. another way, 1014. or scollops of fowl, au seas 1018. A, vee INDEX. Mallets, au Ragout Cardinal, 481. 4 la Chesterfield, 485, a la Génoise, 483, » TV Italienne, 482. Mushrooms, au gratin, 1161, age of, inAllemande sauce, 132. 5 in Espagnole sauce, 133, os purée of, 122, Muscle sauce, 52. Mustard sauce for herrings, 86. Mutton, removes of, 601. braized carbonnades of, ala Dauphi- noise, 866. 2 la Flamande, 867. & la Richelieu, 865. »» leg of, with roots, 602, ~ saddle of, ala Macédoine, 607. a la Brétonne, 605. a la Jardiniere, 606 2 1a Provengale, 603. a la Soubise, 604. a boiled leg of, 3 & |’ Anglaise, 601, fillets of, larded, with Chévreuil sauce, 868, haricét of, a la Nivernaise, 869. Beis of, a l Allemande, 612, ry l Anglaise, 608. a PIrlandaise, 609, a la Jardiniére, 610. larded, with Poivrade sauce, 611, a la Soubise, 613. with purée of artichokes, 854. cutlets for entrées, or side dishes, 836, braized, 4 la Chipolata, 855. & la Lyonnaise, 853, 894, a la Pompadour, 856 a la Provengale, 857, » ala Russe, 858. », ala Soubise, 852, breaderumbed, and broiled,844, plain, 836, a la Bourguignotte, 839, 4 la Brétonne, 848: a I’ Indiénne, 850. a la Macédoine, 849. a la Maintenon, 838,. & la Minute, 837. a la Milanaise, 847, another method, 842, a la Nivernaise, &c., 841, with cucumbers, 846, with purée of chestnuts, 851. with purée of endives, &c., 840. with purée of mushrooms, 845, wth stewed peas, &c., 858, with new potatoes, &e., 843, scollops of, with fine-herbs, 859 dla Claremont, 860. a |’ Indienne, 862, with mushrooms and truf: Ld 864, ” ” ” ” ” ? ”? a ” ” 9 ” —~—=————eEeEeEeEeEeEeEeEEEES v_ ew we we v_ ew he vod Mutton, scollops of, with olives farcies, 863. ” with oysters, 861, Neapolitan cake, & la Chantilly, 1357. sauce, 63, ‘ Nougats, large, 1285, small, a la Chantilly, 1287. ala Parisiénne, 1286. Nouilles, a la Palerme, 1210, », timbale of, & la Vanille, 1211. Noukles, & la Viennoise, 1227, Nutritive soup, 22. ” 9 Omelette, souffiée, 437. Omelet, with fine-herbs, 1196, with kidneys, 1198. with oysters, 1199. with Parmesan cheese, 1197a. » With shalots, 1 197. Onions, purée of, & la Soubise, 119. button, for Matelotte, 149. » white button, for garnishing, 150, », glazed for garnishing, 154. Ortolans in cases, with fine-herbs, 1109. eee) in crdustades, ? ala Provengale, 1110. Ox-cheeks, for removes or flank dishes, 630. braized, & l Allemande, 632, a la Brétonne, 817. a la Flamande, 630. a la Jardiniére, 820, a la Polonaise, 631. & la Pompadour, 634. a la Portuguaise, 633. & la Provengale, 818. with purée of green- peas, 810. with stewed cabbage, 819. Ox-PALATES FOR ENTREES, 821. Ox-palates, attereaux of, a la D’Uxelles, 82 oP] 3) 9 9 canelons of, with Poivrade sauce, 821. curry of, 824. a a of, & la Financiére, 22. 4 la Tortué, 823. in cases, with fine-herbs, 826, Ox-piths, for Entrées, 250. ala Ravigotte, 827 a in cases with fine-heros, 828. 4 croustades of, 829. OX-TONGUES FOR ENTREES, 251. Ox-tongue with spinach, 830. with Brussels-sprouts, 831. a l Allemande, 834, ala J ardiniére, 833. ala Macédoine, 832, with sauérkraut, 835. Oyster sauce (white), 50. (brown), 51. 9) ? 252. ” Pancakes, pam 1382, »» ala Celestine, 1383. » — soufiles, . DS ee, l INDEX, Parisian loaves, 1327. » nougats, 1286. 9, .. sauce, 40, Parsley sauce, 77, Partridges for removes, or top and botton dishes, 209. entrées of, 327: a la Cerito, 726 a l’Ellsler, 729. a la Ravigotte, 72°. a la Seville, 724. a la Soubise, 728. red- -legged, & la Plessy, 725. cutlets of, a l’Algeriénne, 1088. a la Maitre d’HO6tel, 1089.0: fillets of, & la Lucullus, 1082. a la Prince Albert, 1083. a PAnciénne, 1084. ‘be a la Parisienne, 1085. minced, with poached e 1091! Pp Bes, purée of, with plovers’ eggs, 10%). ” ”? 9 salmis of, & la Financiére, 1078. a la Provengale, 1079. a la Périgord, 1080, with mushrooms, 1081. scollops of, with truffles, 1086. in cases, 1087, ” ” ” Pascaline sauce, 15. Paste, French, for raised-pies, 1252. Gum, 1260. hot water, for raised-pies, 1251. Nouilles, 1256. Office, 1257. short, for tarts, &c., 1255. short, for timbales, ‘&c., 1253 Pastry-custard or cream, 1311. Patés-chauds, for entrées, 219. of godiveau, & la Ciboulette, 756. of larks boned, a Vessence, 760. of leverets, with truffles, 2 a la Peri- gueux, 754. of leverets, & la Financiere, 755. of ox-palates, a VItalienne, 758. of {ous partridges, a la Chasseur, 757. of quails, & la Financiére, 759. of young rabbits, — fine-herbit 75 ”? - Pa ala Poivrade, 753. 4) of snipes, & la Bordelaise, 761. Patties, a la Mazarin, 1267. Peas, puree of, for garnishing entrées, &c., 106. ’ green, garnish of, for cutlets, &c., 145. stewed, for do., 146. green, plain, to boil, 1174, stewed, a la Frangaise, 1176. stewed plain, 1179. | Perch, & Ja ee: 526. s =~ 8 a Nal a4 INDEX. Ee Z ‘ia Perch, 4 la Vénitiénne, &e., 528, » - vla Wastrefische, 527. fillets of, : la Cardinal, 529. a l’Italiénne, 529, : Re a la Ravigotte, 529, » «ala Vertpre, &c., 529. Petits-choux, with almonds, 1291. aa with caramel, 1293, Perigueux sauce, 23. Pheasants for removes, or top and bottom dishes, 204, 93 a Y Allemande, 79. 9» &lAspic, 722. = & la Beauvaux, 710. » la Chipolata, 708. ee & la Dauphine, 714. = a la Dauphinoise, 716. & la Financiere, 711. & la Flamande, 718. » al Italiénne, 709. 3 a la Monglas, 723. » ala Paysanne, 715. » ela Périgueux, 707. & la Regence, 720. ie a la Soubise, wiz. ~ with purée of celery, 712. St with stewed cabbage, &c., 717. with rice, & l’Espagnole, 721. Pie, capon, with truffles, 1243. » eel, a ’Anglaise, 1247. ‘3 Devonshire squab, 1245. 5, Leicestershire pork, 1246. », salmon, & la Russe, 1248. » Yorkshire, 1244, raised, of veal and ham, 1242. Pies, meat, for removes, or entrées, 212, Pie, beefsteak and oyster, 735, » chicken, & la Reine, 730. 2 fieldfare or blackbird, 739. » giblet, with fine-herbs, 734, »» grouse, & I’ Kcossaise, 732. », lark, & la Melton Mowbray, 740, a partridge, a la Chasseur, 733. » pigeon, a l’Anglaise, 731. » xoutton, 41’ Anglaise, 737. - veal and ham, 736. » Of woodcocks or suipes, a lIrlandaise, 738. Pig, sucking, roast, 641. roast, 2 la Chipolata, 643, ” ”? ” ” ” ” ” ” 2 la Perigord, 642. 2 la Provengale, 644. _ Pigeons, LP Pnduie, 1034. » la Crapaudine, 1023. » la Duchesse, 1024. », la Gauthier, 1022. -» ala Séville, 1025. » fillets of, & ‘la Borghese, 1032. ” ? ” 3 & la Villeroi, 1031, »» au gratin, in a case, 1026. », la Maintenon, 1027. ‘Pig’ s feet, & la Ste. Menehould, 952. ee ie 2x la Maitre d’Hotel, 529. a la Napolitaine, 645. a la Bourguignotte, 1033, Pig’s-feet, & la Perigord, 953, e a la Richelieu, 954, Pike or Jack, stuffed and baked, 521 — a a la Cardinal, 522. » +. &la Chamboard, 529, - ala Royale, 529, ef fried & l’Allemanda, 522. | + » ala Hollandaise, 528, { An crimped i in slices, & la Hollasd: : aise, 524, fillets of, 525. Piquante sauce, 18. Pithiviers cakes, 1302, Plaice, fillets of, 1136. Poéle, white, for poultry, 231. Poires Coquettes, 1456. Poivrade sauce, 29, Polish cakes, 1319. , -9y:~Ss Saurse, 37. Polpettes of rabbits, a l’Italiénne, 1062. Poor-man’s sauce, 17, Portuguese sauce, 59. Portugal onions, & lEspagnole, 1164. Pork, boiled leg of, 4 J’ Anglaise, 635. i 3 a l’Allemande, 736. » roast leg of, a Anglaise, 637, ‘e », loin of, 638. as »» neck of, 639, ») griskin of, 640. Pork cutlets plain broiled, 948, aa a l’Indiénne, "951. 5 & la sauce Robert, 949, aa a] Aurore, 950. Pork, entrées of, 285. » giskin | of, 3 & la Soubise, 945. Y Seine la Lyonnaise, 946, a » ala Périgueux, 947. Potatoes, purée of, for cutlets, &c., 116, » &lacréme, au gratin, 1190. » ala Maitre d’Hétel, 1188, new, a la créme, 1189, Potted bloaters, 1234, » fowl and tongue, 1231. » lobster, 1232, », pheasant, a la Royale, 1230. »» prawns or shrimps, 1233. Preparation of paper for filtering orange- juice, &c., 1421. Preserved hare, and other game, 1249, Princess sauce, 45. Provengale sauce, 25. = (cold) sauce, 101. Profitrolles with chocolate, 1294, PUDDINGS, MEAT, for REMOVES Or ENTREES, page 222, A beefsteak and oyster,-741. - kidney, 743. ” mutton, 742, . sausage, 746, + of ee birds, 4 la Chipolata, snipe, & la D’Orsay, 745. Puppincs for ENTREMETS, Or SECOND-COUR3E DISHES, page 451. 9 — a la Gotha, 1385. teil | Rabbits, onto of . 1401 5, how to dr me iB ritice pata 1403, : ; fowls “pi ; "ya Coburg, 1391, Rigout Bounruighot, for hee of ga » dla Frazgaise, 1392. 24 aes 95 é je ela epee 1393 ott be Gardinal; for chickens, ( » cabinet, 1394. Pe ee a A Chipolata, for turkeys, in chestnut, 1395, vy OY gaye a _,, . crayfish, for fish ceed . ginger, 1396.) Financibre, Agee cna AE > apple, 1402.5 areca - Matelotte, for fish, 193, 55 pine-apple, 139%% SUR 3 2. Norman Matelotte, for soles,& a _ plum ‘1404, ot tae on Parisian, ‘for. fillets of part a : vere |) | 80.5 DOS ude ihe 2 bos Péricuenx: “for garni ishing ; Ly LAC se - ei z f fw +4 Gis, j &c., 192, sf 7 _Puftzpaste, 1 1261. Aerie . | 4, ofseocks’ Kernels, FS la Soubise, ~ & la Financiere, 1043, ct > ae of ox;palates, 209. ue aera Xa Périgueux, 1042, £4 . |. 4:2. of sheep’s-tongues, 210. . ala Roy ale, 1044, . |. yy, .seollops of poultry or game, ~ cutlets of, a la Bordelaise, 1046, Bal Fae ye OL scollops of larks, for an entre -! , + aada Maréchale, 1045, 1 205) he s4 fash vs - fillets of, & la Parisienne, 1048., 3G ee) of scollops of smeetbrenda, 3080 < - ala Talleyrand, 1047,: {>.,, of soft roes of mackerel, 199. =) ~ ecole: of, with-cucumbers, 1050. |. 5, Of scollops of soles to ‘carnislon with truffles, ' AGLI a be entrées, 201... >. s cokes 1296. YS OTR Og aK 42 - of scollops of salmon, 202, . lle oe epee ofsfish! 246, 9 | Raviattre, (white) sauces:20.¢ yh hog fase +E, pio Swe Fowl; Qa3iey Poh sae ae NG (green) sauce, Obi See eyes gird of hare, 244, i H pe eamees oA ¥ ‘i ee ie eit “of lobsters, 247. Se ge | Red-currant-jelly sauce, for ven er y ch ONE ‘of pheasantorpartridge, ‘Retency sauce, 49. we ses Linke ae 244. ie oe gat, Be., 9: 95. ae ‘Remoulade sauce, for cold: mea Roast black game‘and grouse, 1149 4007 oPrabbitpaads oe By ie a of small: binds, 245. ay |) aye COPORS LAGOS aE EO ne uenelles, pread panada: for, 240.: “ “4 green-goose; M47 as) 7 we pa” 4, Pate-a-choux, panada for, 241, |. 4) guinea fowls,’ 1150b.0 ee aoe “ype (Prep sor Calls udder; for, 2 ly og. Hare d138o 0 ses pet Pets » _. of fowls, a Tessence,” 100K 33 larks, 1) TAA ye aes eye syne OF sacha tig a la D’Orsay, 1092. ,, peahens, 1150a.: 7 **5) = es, a a la peers, 5» partridges, 11415° Meets S : 1093. »» pheasant; 1140555 gesves s i of pheasants, 1017. ie 9 pigeons, 1148. - ; a of rabbit, 1062. © a uals Tha? 3 a la Maréchale, ' 1003. 4 jor a] .,,/erabbits, 1139. iP ',, & la Toulouse, 1002. » ruffs and reeves, L143.) As. utp . woodcocks and snipes, 1i43. Rabbit, a la Bourguignomiig, 1 del . | Roasts, second-course, 344. © & la Chasseur, 1055. ¥ Robert sauce, for pork cutlets, 67. a la Péerigueux, 1058. Roux white, for thickening Velcuté sa fillets of, larded, a la ‘Maréchale, |. 238. > Bibtine , ~~ 1060. 5, brown, ° for thickening Esp eae 5s Mel ead Toulouse, | sauce, 239.) he ; has } 1059.) ‘Russian sauce, Fo hae’ “fie i batter, with ree sauce, | Galstad ala. eséne, 1158, a3 da Ser es Po hee viata eh ( ty tah oy 2 bl le ae es $ oe eis hee ax, es Fa spepese sag A el fae : eae at. ratptate gta = upets pe act a Siptete pharked * “: sis ier 7 a ae es APage PvE C fnay hat at be Tbe Tati ah ah = ei Keene. Reet Xs sala ey “3 i eed ms : eee, ed eg tab, aN ¢3 SS oe oar ok miata eee : fee Siesta : . 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