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MODERN COOKERY,

IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

SALM O'N

MW)

TURBOT.

isl

MIDDLE . OF

MOD ERN C00 KERY,

- ALL ws BRANCHRS

i en al
ie “REDUCED TO

A SYSTEM OF EASY PRACTICE,

FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE FAMILIES.

IN A SERIES OF RECEIPTS, WHICH HAVE BEEN STRICTLY
TESTED, AND ARE GIVEN WITH THE MOST
MINUTE EXACTNESS.

af BY ELIZA ACTON.

ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL AND NUMEROUS WOODCUTS.

SIXTH EDITION,

TO WHICH ARE ADDED, DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.

LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN AND LONGMANS,
PATERNOSTER ROW.

1847.

; Londou: (= 4
erintas by Brews and MURRAY, = 4
=Ola le f ye

DEDICATED

TO THE

YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS

OF ENGLAND.

PREFACE,

TxE proper and wholesome preparation of our daily food,
though it may hold in the estimation of the world but a very
humble place among the useful arts of life, can scarcely be
considered an altogether unimportant one, involving so entirely,
as it does, both health and comfort.

England is, beyond most other countries, rich in the varied
and abundant produce of its soil, or of tts commerce, which in
turn supply to it all that the necessities or the luxury of its
people can demand; yet, until within very recent years, its
cookery has remained far inferior to that of nations much less
advanced in civilization; and foreigners have been called in to
furnish to the tables of our aristocracy, and of the wealthier
orders of the community, those refinements of the art which
were not to be obtained from native talent.

Our improvement was for a long time opposed by our own
strong and stubborn prejudices against innovation in general,
and against the innovations of strangers in particular ; but these,
of late, have fast given way before the more rational and liberal
spirit of the times: happily for ourselves, we have ceased to be
too bigoted, or too proud to profit by the superior information
and experience of others upon any subject of utility. The pre-
sent age is one of rapid and universally progressing knowledge;

Vili PREFACE.

and nothing which is really calculated to advance either the
great or the small interests of society is now regarded as too
homely or too insignificant for notice. The details of domestic
economy, in particular, are no longer sneered at as beneath the
attention of the educated and accomplished ; and the truly
refined, intelligent, and high-minded women of England have
ceased, in these days of comparative good sense, to consider
their acquaintance with such details as inconsistent with their
dignity, or injurious to their attractions:—and who can direct
their households with the same taste, the same judgment, and
the same watchful care for the comfort of others as themselves? —
‘Who, indeed, can guard all the interests of home as they can?
And surely a woman does not preside less pleasingly in her
own immediate circle, nor do the honours of her table, or of
her drawing-room, with less grace and propriety for having
given (often from pursuits much more congenial to her) some
portion of the day to the examination and control of her do-
mestic affairs; it is rare, too, we should suppose, for a husband
to be otherwise than grateful to his wife for the exertion of a
surveillance which, if steadily and judiciously maintained, will
affect his expenditure beyond all that a careless calculator
would imagine possible. This, at a period when the struggle
for income is so general, and the means of half the families
holding a certain rank in the world are so insufficient for the
support of their position, is a-consideration of very deep im-
portance.

Few things are more certain to involve persons of narrow
fortune in painful difficulties than the ruinous, because constant
(though not always perceptible), extravagance which so often
exists in every department of a house of which the sole regula-
tion is left to servants, who, more than any other class of people
in the world, would appear to be ignorant of the true value of

PREFACE. IX.

money, and of the means of economizing it. We speak, of
course, of the generality. Some amongst them there are, we
know, equally trustworthy and conscientious, who protect their
employers’ property from abuse more scrupulously even than if
it Were their own; but the greater number are reckless enough
in their wasteful profusion when uncontrolled by the eye of a
superior: an inexperienced housekeeper cannot be too soon
aware of this. It sometimes happens, however, that the young
mistress of a family has had no opportunity before her mar-
riage of acquiring the knowledge which would enable her to
conduct her household concerns as she could desire; and that,
with a high sense of her duties, and an earnest wish to fulfil
them to the utmost, she is prevented by her entire ignorance of
domestic affairs from accomplishing her object. In sucha case,
unless she should chance to possess that rare treasure of com-
mon English life, a superior cook,* the economy of her table
will not be amongst the lightest of her difficulties; and she
may be placed, perhaps, by circumstances at a distance from
every friend who could counsel or assist her. Thrown thus
entirely upon her own resources, she will naturally and gladly
avail herself of the aid to be derived from such books as can
really afford to her the information she requires.. Many ad-
mirably calculated to do this, in part, are already in possession
of the public; but amongst the large number of works on
cookery, which we have carefully perused, we have never yet
met with one which appeared to us either quite intended for, or

* It can scarcely be expected that good cooks should abound amongst us, if we
consider how very few receive any training to fit them for their business. Every
eraft has its apprentices; but servants are generally left to scramble together as
they can, from any source which accident may open to them, a knowledge of
their respective duties. We have often thought, that schools in which these
duties should be taught them thoroughly, would be of far greater benefit to them
than is the half-knowledge of comparative un-useful matters so frequently be-
stowed on them by charitable educationists.

Ce PREFACE,

entirely suited to the need of the totally inexperienced ; none, in
fact, which contained the first rudiments of the art, with direc-
tions so practical, clear, and simple, as to be at once understood,
and easily followed, by those who had no previous knowledge
of the subject. This deficiency, we have endeavoured in the
present volume to supply, by such thoroughly explicit and
minute instructions as may, we trust, be readily comprehended.
and carried out by any class of learners; our receipts, moreover,
with a few trifling exceptions which are scrupulously specified,
are confined to such as may be perfectly depended on, from
having been proved beneath our own roof and under our own
personal inspection. We have trusted nothing to others; but
having desired sincerely to render the work one of genuine use-
fulness, we have spared neither cost nor labour to make it so,
ds the very plan on which it has been written must of itself,
we think, evidently prove. It contains some novel features,
calculated, we hope, not only to facilitate the labours of the
kitchen, but to be of service likewise to those by whom they
are directed. The principal of these is the summary appended
to the receipts, of the different ingredients which they contain,
with the exact proportion of each, and the precise time required
to dress the whole. This shows at a glance what articles have
to be prepared before hand, and the hour at which they must
be ready ; while it affords great facility as well, for an estimate
of the expense attending them. ~The additional space occupied
by this closeness of detail has necessarily prevented the admis-
sion of so great a variety of receipts as the book might otherwise
have comprised; but a limited number, thus completely ex-
plained, may perhaps be more acceptable to the reader than a
larger mass of materials vaguely given.

Our directions for boning poultry, game, &c., are also, we
may venture to say, entirely new, no author that is known to

PREFACE. ».@

us having hitherto afforded the slightest information on the
subject; but while we have done our utmost to simplify and to
render intelligible this, and several other processes not generally
well understood by ordinary cooks, our first and best attention
has been. bestowed on those articles of food of which the con-
sumption is the most general, and which are therefore of the
greatest consequence; and on what are usually termed plain
English dishes. With these we have intermingled many foreign
ones which we know to be excellent of their kind, and which
now so far belong to our national cookery, as to be met with
commonly at all refined modern tables. But we find that we
have, in every way, so far exceeded the limits assigned to us for
our volume, that we feel compelled to take here our somewhat
abrupt leave of the reader; who will, no doubt, discover easily,
without our assistance, both any merit and any deficiency which
may exist in the work. .

‘a chee
Fe ea rt ae
eae

NOTICE TO THIRD EDITION.

Ix preparing a third edition of the Moprrn Cooxsry for
the press, within so very short a time of its first publication,
the authoress has endeavoured to show her sense of the gratify-
_ ing reception which has been given to the work, by improving
it to the utmost of her power. To this end, she has gladly
availed herself of the space afforded by a slight variation in
the size of the type, to add a large number of new and ex-
cellent receipts, which, like all that the volume originally
contained, have been tested with exceeding care. She has
also arranged the dishes appropriate to the first and second
course under the French names of entrées and entremets, by
which they are now commonly distinguished ; and in explana-
tion of these, and some few other foreign terms, which may
not be perfectly familiar to all her readers, a short vocabulary
has been annexed to the book. Every exertion has, in fact
been made, which the extremely short period that could be
commanded for the purpose would allow, both to correct the
work throughout, and to augment as much as possible its
value, by increasing its usefulness. It must, however, be ob-
served, that no effort on the part of the authoress can ensure

NOTICE TO THIRD EDITION.

a satisfactory result of her labours, unless the directions, which
have cost her so much toil, and which, to prevent the chance of
failure, have, in many instances, been repeated almost to
tediousness, be implicitly followed by the learner: she cannot
answer for their success if they be not strictly adhered to, their
very exactness rendering any deviation from them always likely
to endanger it. Attention to this point is the more strongly
urged, because the object of the writer, in taking the infinite
pains of having each separate receipt of a series of upwards
of eleven hundred worked through before it was inserted in
the volume, that she might assure herself of its entire correct-
ness and real practical utility, and safely guarantee them to
others, must be at once defeated if her instructions be departed
from.

The book has received, since it was issued to the public,
numberless flattering and kindly testimonies of approval, both
through the medium of the press, and through various private
channels ; but none which have afforded the authoress more
heart-felt pleasure—though all have given her much—than
the cordial assurances of many young housekeepers that it has
realized to them all that it professes, and proved a most
valuable assistant in their households. May it continue so to
fulfil her intention and her wishes.

July, 1845.

NOTICE TO FIFTH EDITION.

A very agreeable opportunity again presents itself to the
writer of the following pages of addressing a few words to her
readers, and she takes advantage of it with-peculiar pleasure,
both to make some explanations which appear almost due to the
earlier friends of the work, and to offer some. observations upon
one or two points on which she has hitherto but slightly
touched.
The rapidity with which the several editions of the Modern
Cookery have succeeded each other up to the present moment,
and the favour with which the book has continued to be
received, might seem to render the new efforts which have just
been made for its improvement altogether superfluous; but in
arranging it, in the first instance, for publication, the Authoress
confined its contents strictly to the one subject on which it was
professedly written, and left entirely unnoticed the many merely
relative matters which are usually annexed to domestic treatises,
upon it. Amongst these were Directions for Carving, the
omission of which, as she learned but recently, was regretted by
some of the purchasers ; and it was suggested that their insertion
would considerably enhance the utility of the work, especially

NOTICE TO FIFTH EDITION.

to young housekeepers. She has therefore now supplied them,
in the best manner that time and circumstances would permit;
and they are accompanied by a series of very superior illustra-
_ tive engravings on steel, which do credit, she thinks, alike to
the artist whose name is attached to them, and to the spirit and
good taste of the publishers by whom they were decided on.

It is improbable that, after these, any further additions will be
made to the work, which has already been extended very far
beyond its original limits. Her own exertions for it being thus
apparently terminated, the Authoress hopefully commits its
future fortunes to the public, whose .reception of it has been
marked by a degree of urbanity of which, through all her life,
she will remain deeply sensible. Her task has been a laborious
and a trying one; so much so, that she has been tempted often
entirely to relinquish it; yet, in parting now from her kind
readers, she sees it finally accomplished almost with regret.

Norr.—The Authoress has to acknowledge here her great
obligation to M. Soyer of the Reform Club, who, to facilitate
the progress of the plates, was so good as to direct the arrange-
ment of many of the subjects, and allow drawings of them to
be made under his own most able surveillance.

Circumstances of the moment prevent the Authoress from
entering, for the present, upon the further subjects on which
she had proposed to offer some remarks; she will therefore
hope to retract her adieu, and to make them hereafter an occa-
sion of again addressing herself to her readers.

APRIL, 1846.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
SOUPS.
Introductory Remarks . . page 1 , Potato Soup . «6 «page 20
A few directions to the Cook - 2] Apple Soup . : - . . ib.
To thicken Soups - 3 | Parsnep Soup 3 . - 21
To fry Bread to serve with Soups. 4 | Another Parsnep Soup . s ¢ . ib.
Sippets @ la Reine . - 5 | Westerfield White Soup e «AD,
To make Nouilles, an excellent A richer White Soup . ° - 22
substitute for Vermicelli - ib. | Mock Turtle Soup : C » 23

Vegetable Vermicelli for Soups . ib.
Bouillon, or good Beef Broth.
(French receipt.) . é 6
Clear, Pale, Gravy Soup, or Stock 8
Another receipt¢for Gravy Soup . 9
Cheap, Clear, Gfavy Soup . « /9
Vermicelli Soup. (Potage au
Vermicelle.) .« - A .
Semoulina Soup. (Suup ¢ la
' Semoute.) é wal
Maccaroni Soup . spler
Potage aux Nouilles (or Taillerine
Soup). . ° . 5 ;
Sago Soup . ° : -
Tapioca Soup. °. ° . =, 1D3
Rice Soup . . F, ‘
White Rice Soup . . F
Rice-Flour Soup '. . .
Stock for White Soups . . - ib.
Mutton-Stock for Soups °
The Lord Mayor’s Soup . . - 15
The Lord Mayor’s Soup. (Au-

thor’s receipt.) ah ease a1Dy
Cocoa-nut Soup . . . oie!
Chestnut Soup ; ahi

Jerusalem Artichoke, or Pales-
tine Soup ‘ . . . 18
Common Carrot Soup. “ Haye
a finer Carrot Soup . 4 . 19
Common Turnip Soup . : iD,
A quickly made Turnip Soup - 20

Old-fashioned Mock. Turtle . . 26
Good Calf’s-head Soup (not ex- ;
pensive) ‘ . ‘ = 27
Potage @ la Reine. » 29.
White Oyster Soup (or Oyster ©,
Soup @ la Reine) . ~ - 30
Rabbit Soup, @ la Reine : wads
Brown Rabbit Soup ; . . ol

Superlative Hare Soup - » ib,
A less expensive Hare Soup. « 32
Pheasant Soups. q . ib.

Another Pheasant Soup 2 . 34
Partridge Soup. ° ° + 1b.
Mullagatawny Soup . - ib.
To boil Rice for Mullagatawny
Soup, or Curries ‘
Another receipt for boiling Rice °
Vegetable Mullagatawny a =D.
Cucumber Soup . :
An excellent Green Peas Soup ‘
Green Peas Soup without
meat : ‘ - ib.
A cheap Green Peas Soup :
Rich Peas Soup . . :
Common Peas Soup . °
Peas Soup without meat °
Ox-tail Soup . . :
A cheap and good Stew. Soup... _ ib.
Soup in haste ° ’ : - 44
Veal or Mutton Broth . . e ib.
Milk Soup with Vermicelli . 2 45

XIV CONTENT .

.CHAPTER IL

FISH.

- 45 | To boil Haddocks . 4 .

To choose Fish . » :
- 47 | Baked Haddocks . C ° . 66

To clean Fish : A
To keep Fish ;

To sweeten tainted Fish
Brine for boiling Fish .
To render boiled Fish firm
To keep Fish hot for table
To boil a Turbot . .
Turbot @ la Créme A
Turbot au Béchamelt .

° - 48 | To fry Haddocks . = 5

° - ib. | To dress Finnan Haddocks .

: . 49 | Fresh Herrings (Farleigh receipt) ib.
° . ib. | To boil Plaice or Flounders . - 67
. - ib. | To fry Plaice or Flounders . ay 10
‘ . ib. | To roast, bake, or broil Red Mullet ib.
4 - 51 ST Grey Mullet . . . 68
. - ib. ry Smelts . « e aia

To boil a John Dory - ib. | Baked Smelts ° . ib.
To boila Brill . - ib. | To dress White Bait (Greenwich |
Salmon @ la Genevoise - 52 receipt) . . 69

Crimped Salmon . .
To boil Salmon =.
Salmon @ la St Marcel

- ib. | Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt) ib.
- ib. | Shad, Touraine fashion . ‘ - 799
. 53 Stewed Trout (good common re-

To boil Cod Fish . : wD; ceipt) “ . : : abs
Slices of Cod Fish fried - 54 | To boil Pike’. ° : : uae
Stewed Cod Fish . s - ib. | To bake Pike - 72
Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 55 | To bake Pike (superior receipt) 210s
To boil Salt Fish . : . ib. | To boil Perch ; : Pas
Salt Fish @ la Maitre @ Hotel - 56 | To fry Perch or Tench . Y > 1h.
To boil Cods’ Sounds . .ib.| Tofry Eels . F - ib.
To fry Cods’ Sounds in patter . ib. | Boiled Eels (German receipt) . 74
Tofry Soles . ° c - 57 | Eels (Cornish receipt) . 5 . ib.
To boil Soles . : ; ; . 58 | To boil Lobsters « : . 75
Fillets of Soles 3 . ib. | Lobster fricasseed, or aw Béchamel ib.

Baked Soles (or Soles au Plat) : 59 | Buttered Crab or Lobster : . ib.
Sales stewed in cream . : . ib. | To boil Cray-fish . : > - 76
To fry Whitings . ° . - 60 | To boil Prawns . en - ib.

Fillets of Whitings F . . ib. | To boil: Shrimps. Porig |
boil Whitings (French re- Croute-aux-Crevettes, or Shrimp-

Sy ceipt) «. . 61 Toast . ; kb

. Baked Whitings @ la FPrangaise . ib. | Shrimp-Toast @ la "Reine 2 ib;

Te boil Mackerel : ‘ ; . 62 | Oysters . A : A 5 - 78

To bake Mackerel : : . ib. | To stew Oysters. < ; > ID.

Fried Mackerel (common French To scallop Oysters . A - 9

receipt) . : . 63 | Scallopped Oysters @ la Reine . 80

. Boiled fillets of Mackerel . . ib. | Oyster Sausages (Entrée) . - ib.

Fillets bf Mackerel 4 $ - ib. | To fry Oysters . eit

* Mackerel broiled whole : . 64 | Red Herrings a ta Dauphin. F . 81
Mackerel stewed in Wine (Entrée)ib. Red Herrings (common English
Fillets of Mackerel stewed in Wine » mode) : ED;

(excellent) (Zinivéc) . hiastionsins fried in batter yeas

CHAPTER IIL

GRAVIES.

Introductory remarks . . . 82 | Rich deep-coloured. Veal Gravy . 86
To heighten the colour and flavour Good Beef or Veal Gravy (English

of Gravies i . 83 receipt) . - ib.
Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies . 84 | A rich English brown Gravy ek
Rich pale Veal Gravy, or Consom- Gravy for Venison : ° - ib.

mée <ha oes als . 85 | Another Gravy for Venison . . 88

‘CONTENTS.

A rich Gravy for Venison . - 88
Sweet Sauce or Gravy for Venison ib.
' Espagnole (Spanish Sauce), a highly-
flavoured Gravy . : . ib.
Espagnole with Wine . . . 89
Jusdes Rognons (or Kidney Gravy) ib.
Gravy in haste ° - 90

eh a Gravy for a Roast Fowl . ib.

Another cheap Gravy for a Fowl . 91

Quite common Brown Gravy . ib.
Gravy or Sauce for a Goose . vibe
Orange Gravy for Wild Fowl 92
Meat Jellies for Pies or Sauces . ib.

A cheaper Meat Jelly . ° - 93

CHAPTER IV.

SAUCES.

Remarks on Sauces é ‘ - 95
To thicken Sauces . ‘ . . ib.
French Thickening, or Brown Row: 96
White Roux, or French Thicken-
ing F ° . «ib.
Sauce Tournée = . é . ib.
Béchamel . 4 ° .
Béchamel Maigre 4 .
Another common Béchamel . “add.
Rich melted Butter - _ «IDs
Melted Butter (a good common
receipt) . 2 2 . 99
French melted Butter . F . ib.
Norfolk Sauce (or rich melted But-
ter without Flour). R al.
White melted Butter .
Burnt Butter . 5
Clarified Butter . A 2
Very good Egg Sauce. :
Common Egg Sauce . ‘
Egg Sauce for Calf’s Head’. « vib.
English White Sauce . oy eae
Very. common White Sauce C
Dutch Sauce * 4 5
Fricassee Sauce . é °
Bread Sauce 5 e
Bread Sauce with Onion .
Common Lobster Sauce . a 10.
Good Lobster Sauce . .
Good Oyster Sauce . .
Common Oyster Sauce °
Shrimp Sauce . : x
Anchovy Sauce é
Cream Sauce for Fish . “
Sharp Maitre @ Hotel Sauce (Eng-
lish receipt) . ib.
French Maitre a@ Hotel, or Stew-
ard’s Sauce .
Maitre @ Hotel Sauce Maigre (or

__-without Gravy) ib.
Cold Mattre d’ Hotel, or Steward’s
Sauce . Bi de

The Lady’s Sauce for Fish . . 108

Genevese Sauce, or Sauce Gene-
VOiSE ».. . F : 1 aps

Sauce Robert . . . .109

Glaze . - ib.
Aspic, or clear Savoury J elly . 04
Sauce Piquante . : . - 109

Excellent Horse-radish Sauce (to
serve hot or cold with Roast
Beef) . : ani De

Hot Horse- Radish Sauce - 110

Christopher North’s Own Sauce
for many Meats . : + 1D.

Poor Man’s Sauce (to serve with
Turkey Poults) . . - 11k

Salad Dressing . < aeelbe

French Salad “Dressing” < ~ Le

Our own Sauce for Salad or cold A
Meat . a Ui 1 Jest

Mayonnaise (a very fine Sauce - as
for cold Meat, Poultry, Fish,
OT: Salad ne eyis oy Pe "138
Remoulade . : P of a
Fennel Sauce c : .
Parsley and Butter. .
Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel fe
Common Sorrel Sauce . ib.
Asparagus Sauce for Lamb Cutlets ib.
Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb . 116
Caper Sauce. J . ° aes
Brown Caper Sauce . £ phe:
Caper Sauce for Fish . A ~ 117
Common Cucumber Sauce .. . . ib.
Another common Sauce of Cu-

cumbers. é ° :
White Cucumber Sauce e nid.
White Mushroom Sauce . . 118
Another Mushroom Sauce . = 1D.
Brown Mushroom Sauce . - ib.
Common Tomata Sauce . enaDs
A finer Tomata Sauce. ° . 119
Boiled Apple Sauce. ° - 120
Baked Apple Sauce . e ike
Brown Apple Sauce . ° neha
White Onion Sauce . ° « 12]
Brown Onion Sauce . A - ib.
Another brown Onion Sauce eo LDy
Sowbise . . < . ib.
Soubdise (French Receipt) Fntenesii6 64

Mild Ragout of Garlic, or ? Ati
a la Bordelaise « 3 > Ds
Mild Eschalot Sauce e e ib.

XVi

A fine Sauce, or Purée of Vege-

table Marrow. . - 123
Excellent Turnip, or Artichoke

Sauce, for boiled Meat. Ds
Olive sauce . 5 ° 5 - 124
Celery Sauce 5 e og 10;
White Chestnut Sauce . . . . 125
Brown Chestnut Sauce 5 «10s

Sweet Pudding Sauce . ib.
Punch Sauce for Sweet Puddings 126
Common Pudding Sauce . ids
A delicious German Pudding Sauce ib.
Parsley - green, for colouring

Sauces . $ . * :
Tocrisp Parsley . . . «©

127
ib.

CONTENTS.

Fried Parsley ° «127

Anchovy Butter (exellent). - ib.
Tartar Mustard . - 128
Another Tartar Mustard F aes
Mild Mustard ' a - » 129
Mustard, the common way . + ib.

French Batter for frying Vege-
tables, and for Apple, Peach,
or Orange Fritters. 4 - ib.
To prepare Bread for frying Fish ib.
Browned Flour for thickening

CHAPTER V.
STORE SAUCES.

Observations . . . . - 181)
Chetney Sauce . . ° - 182
Mushroom Catsup : ib.

Mushroom Catsup (another re-

* ceipt) . - 133
_ Double Mushroom Catsup ose hkOd
Compound, or Cook’s Catsup . ib.
Walnut Catsup . sib.
Another good receipt for Walnut
‘jaan Catsup . : . . 135
Lemon Pickle, or Catsup > 5) ahs
Pontac Catsup for Fish 6 - 136
Bottled Tomatas, or, Tomata Cat-
sup . 2 se e e ib.
Epicurean Sauce . ° ° Ag liy
Tarragon Vinegar ; ° 7 dor
e e e ib.

Green Mint Vinegar

General remarks on Forcemeats 142
Good common Forcemeat for

Veal, Turkeys, &c., No.1 . 148
Another good common Forcemeat,

No. 2 - ib.
Superior Suet Forcemeat, No. af 144
Common Suet Forcemeat, No.4. ib.
Oyster Forcemeat, No.5 . - 145
Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No.6 . ib.

Mushroom Forcemeat, No.7 . ib.

Forcemeat for Hare, No. 8. - 146

Onion and Sage stuffing for Geese,
Ducks, &c., No. 9 4 «Ds

Cook’s Forcemeat for Geese or
Ducks, No. 10ers

Soups and Gravies . - 130
Fried Bread-Crumbs . . 7 2D:
Bread for Garnishing Swipe
Rajah’s Sauce . +2 te sail

| Cucumber Vinegar ». . . 137

| Celery Vinegar . qemiud

| Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar. 5 - 138
| Eschalot Wine . . oy its
Horse-radish Vinegar . . om alte
Cayenne Vinegar . - 139

Lemon Brandy for “flavouring
Sweet Dishes. 6 Agcy,
Another Store Flavouring for
Puddings or Cakes -. . ibe
Dried Mushrooms A : 2 10s
Mushroom Powder . . - 140
Potato Flour (Fecule de Pommes

de Terre) . . to aBs
To make Flour of Rice. . . 141
Powder of Savoury Herbs . Api
The Doctor’s Zest ° - A tie

CHAPTER VI.
FORCEMEATS.

Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle

Soups, No. 11~° . ; - 147
Egg Balls, No. 12 . . - 148
Brain Cakes, No. 13 . : sad.

Another receipt for Brain Cakes,
No. 14 . ' os te

Chestnut Forcemeat, N 0. 15 . 149

An excellent French Forcemeat,

No. 16. 2 ep Ti

French Forcemeat, called “ Que-
nelles, No. 17 " 150

Forcemeat for raised and ‘other ei
cold Pies, No.18. . - 15)

Panada, No.19 2. 4 sw ibs

CONTENTS. ee

CHAPTER VIL

BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.

To boil Meat e e ‘ . 158) Baking. ° . Ps ° « 163
Poélée . < . e e » 154 Braising . ° e ° . 165
A Blane ee e « ib. | Larding : . ° . . 166
Roasting . Onesie . 155 | Boning . ° “ . 167
Steaming . «6 co e ~ 157| To blanch Meat or Vegetables . ib.
Stewing F . e ¢ - 158] Glazing. “ : ° Y ae lis
Broiling e Bite e - 160 | Toasting . «Abs
ERVIN) oe tee Oe Sosy 1G Browning with Salamander. . 169
5 1 CHAPTER VIIL
BEEF.

To choose Beef . . : - 170
To roast Sirloin or Ribs of Beef. ib.
Roast Rump of Beef . 5 . 171
To roast part of a Round of Beef ib.
To roast a Fillet of Beef . . 172
Roast Beef Steak. +. é aeliet sF

To broil Beef Steaks . A ib.
Beef Steaks @ la sia eal (En-
trée . - 174

Beef Steaks @ la Francaise
(another receipt) (Entrée) .
Stewed Beef Steak (Entrée) . ib,
Fried Beef Steaks . : . 175
Beef Steak stewed in its own Gravy
(good and wholesome) . 7 aib,
Beef or Mutton Cake (very good)
(Entrée) Bist ee to A
German Stew . e« -
Welsh Stew . : oH « « 11D.

A good English Stew . Mee

To stew Shin of Beef . ide

French Beef 4 la Mode (common
receipt) . é Pee Wi)

Stewed Sirloin of Beef. . ‘ . 179
To stew a Rump of Beef . AltA
Beef Palates (Entrée) A - 180
Beef Palates (Neapolitan mode) . 181
Stewed Ox-tails (Entrée) ib.
Broiled Ox-tail (good) (Entrée) ib.
To salt and pickle Beef in various

, ys. ° anes -
To salt and boil a Round of

Bee . é : ~ Awe oe
Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, Hams,

and Tongues . . 183
Another Pickle for Tongues ‘Beef,

and Hams . ; de
Dutch, . Hung Beef . ° . 184

Collared Beef . ° - 184
Collared Beef (another receipt) - 185
A common receipt for Salting
Beek “=. ib.
Spiced Round of Beef (very highly
flavoured) . ib.
Spiced Beef (good and whole-
some) .
A miniature Round of Beef. . 187
Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt) . ib.
Beef Roll (or Canellon de Hoey )

(Enirée) 5 . 188
Minced Collops aw Naturel. (En-
EP E66): shoo Ye . 189

Savoury minced Collops (Entrée) ib.

A richer variety of minced Col-
lops (Entrée) : « tee

Scotch minced Collops : . 190

Beef Tongues c ib.
Beef Tongues (a Suffolk receipt) ib.
To dress Beef Tongues | 191

Bordyke receipt for ee tips a

Tongue . ; Fy °
To roast a Beef Heart . ; °
Beef Kidney : <
Beef Kidney (a plainer way) + db,
An excellent hash of cold Beef or

Mutton . 5 193
A common hash of cold Beef or

Muiton . ' ¢ « 3D.
Breslaw of Beef (good) A Apis
Norman Hash : . 194

French receipt for hashed Bouilli ib.
Baked minced Beef . 5 - 195
Saunders’ . . : <EpiDs
To boil Marrow-bones | a Siva teys
Baked Marrow-bones . K . 196
Clarified Marrow for keeping .o ib.

1884

XVili

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.
VEAL.

To choose Veal . - 197
To take the hair from a Calf’s
Head with the skin on. Ao
Boiled Calf’s Head ‘ 4 - 198
Calf’s Head, the Warder’s way
(an excellent receipt) . 2 eA.
Prepared Calf’s Head (the Cook’s

receipt) . ° . - 199
Burlington Whimsey ° . eae
Cutlets of Calf’s Head (Entrée) .
Hashed Calf’s Head (Entrée) * oot
Cheap hash of Calf’s Head - =ib.

To dress cold Calf’s Head, or
Veal, d la Maitre ad Hotel
(English receipt) (Entrée) . 202

Calf’s Head Brawn (Author’s re-

ceipt) 5 . 203
To roast a Fillet of Veal ' . 204
Boiled Fillet of Veal . ‘ phir
Roast Loin of Veal . ° 1D.
Boiled Loin of Veal . e - 205
Stewed Loin of Veal . . - ib.
Boiled Breast of Veal . . » 206
To roast a Breast of Veal . - ib,

To bone a Shoulder of Veal, Mut-

ton, or Lamb ib.
Stewed Shoulder of Veal (English
receipt) . A . 207

Roast Neck of Veal ; eh cer AD,

Neck of Veal a la Créme, or au
Béchamel . - ib.

Knuckle of Veal en Ragout e 208

Boiled Knuckle of Veal : - 208

Knuckle of Veal with Rice or
Green Peas . : ib.

Small, Pain de Veau or ” Veal

Cake (Entrée) : 209
Bordyke Veal Cake (good) (En-
trée) . é + abs
Fricandeau of Veal (Entrée) « 210
Spring stew of Veal(Enirée) . 211
Brézolles. . . : Seis
Norman Harrico . . . 212
Veal Cutlets (Entrée) oh eee
Veal Cutlets @ -l’Indienne, or
Indian fashion, (Entrée) . ip.
Veal Cutlets, or Collops, a@ la
Francaise (Entrée) . .214
Scotch Collops (Entrée) ey plex
Veal Cutlets d la mode de Lon-
dres, or London fashion
(Entrée) . . 215

Sweetbreads, simply stewed, fri-
casseed, or glazed (Entrées) ib.
Sweetbread ‘Cutlets (Entrée). ib.
Stewed Calf’s Feet (cheap and good) 216
Calf’s Liver fried (Entrée) - 217
To roast Calf’s Liver . . sas
Blanquette of Veal, or Lamb,
with Mushrooms (Enirée) . 218
Minced Veal (Entrée) Obey
Minced Veal with Oysters (Entrée) 219
Veal Sydney (good) . . . 220
Fricasseed Veal(Entrée) - ~- ib.

CHAPTER X,
MUTTON AND LAMB

To choose Mutton 5 . Bess
To roast a Haunch of Mutton . 222
Roast Saddle of Mutton : nals

To roast a Leg of Mutton . . 223
Superior receipt for roast Leg of

. Mutton . ‘ . 224
Braised Leg of Mutton’ 5 ib.

Leg of Mutton boned and forced. ib.

Mock Venison . . 225
To boil a Leg of Mutton (an ex-
cellent receipt) . . 226
Cold roast Leg of Mutton
redressed E . . «- IDs
Fillet of Mutton . 4 eee y/

To roast a Loin of Mutton . ere lon
To dress a Loin of Mutton like
Venison é i > 2 228

To roast a Shoulder of Mutton . 228
Spiced Shoulder of Mutton Apis e
Forced Shoulder of Mutton - 229
Mutton Cutlets stewed in their
own gravy (good) ib.
To broil Mutton Cuilets (Entrée) 230
China Chilo (Entrée) . ° ib.
A good Family Stew of Mutton . 231
An Irish Stew. + dee) ib.
Cutlets of cold Mutton” - 232
Mutton Kidneys @ la Francaise
(Entrée) ‘ A > 1iDe
Broiled Mutton Kidneys : - 233
Oxiona Bdooipt fon eiatoas saeye
(breakfast dish, or Entiée) .
To roast a Quarter ‘of Lamb fe
Roast Saddle of Lamb =. Sly

Roast Loin of Lamb , - . 284 ;

Stewed Leg of Lamb, with white
sauce (Entrée) . ° :

Loin of Lamb stewed in butter
(Eatr ée) e re 2

CONTENTS.

xix

Lamb or Mutton Cutlets, with

Soubise sauce (Entrée). - 235
Lamb Cutlets in their own
gravy (Entrée) 2 Poiep aye is

- 235 ' Cutlets of Cold Lamb . e Aig hie

CHAPTER XI

PORK.

To choose Pork . ° . - 236 | Hams superior to Westphalia *. 244
To melt Lard . 6 - 237 | Hams (Bordyke receipt) . . 245
To preserve unmelted Lard for To boila Ham . - 246

many months ° - . ib. | French receipt for boiling a "Ham 247
To roast a Sucking Pig ‘ - 238 | To bake a Ham . . . ein
Baked Pig - . : - 239 | To boil Bacon. . - ib.
Pig a la Tartare (Entr ée). « ib. | Bacon broiled or fried : 2 248
Sucking Pig, en blanquette (En- Dressed Rashers of Bacon . . ib.

tree) =>. ¢ . A - ib. | Tonbridge Brawn P ‘ ede
To roast Pork. ° ° . 240 | Italian Pork Cheese . - 249
To roast a Saddle of Pork . . ib. | Sausage-meat Cake (or Pain de
To broil or fry Pork Cutlets - 241 Pore Frais) . . . - 250
Cobbett’s receipt for curing Bacon — ib. | Sausages . sritbs

A genuine Yorkshire receipt for
curing Hams and Bacon... 242
Kentish mode of cutting up and
curing a Pig. . 4 . 243
French Bacon for larding . . 244
To pickle Cheeks of Bacon and
Hams r ° ° e 5 #P

Kentish Sausage- meat. . eiDs
Excellent Sausages sails - 251
Pounded Sausage-meat(very good) iv.
Boiled Sausages (Entrée) . Ee aia:
Sausages and Chestnuts (an excel-
lent dish) (Entrée) . . .« ib.
Truffled Sausages, or Saucisses —
aux truffies) © ce eel

CHAPTER XIL

POULTRY.
To choose Poultry = : - 253 | Fricasseed Fowls or Chickens |
To bone a Fowl or Turkey with- (Entrée) c - 264
out opening it c . 254 | Chicken Cutlets (Entr ée) ° + 265
Another mode of boning a Fowl Cutlets of Fowls, Partridges, or
or Turkey / - 255 Pigeons Erorrew coeiny (En-

To bone Fowls for Fricassees,
Curries, and Pies . . . 256
To roast a Turkey t : me De

To boil a Turkey . . 257
Turkey boned and forced (an ex-
cellent dish) . : . 258

Turkey a la Flamande, or dinde
poudrée. . . ° . 259
To roast a Goose . : . . 260
To roast a green Goose . é 26%
To roast a Fowl . ‘ ‘

Roast Fowl (a French receipt) :
To roast a Guinea Fowl. . «) ib.

Fowl d@ la Carlsfors (Entrée) .
Boiled Fowls . » 263
To broil a Chicken or Fowl ev ibs

trée) - ib.
Fried Chicken a la Malabar
(Entrée) 2 ‘ . . 266
Hashed Fowl (Entrée) “ ib.
Minced Fowl (French receipt)
(Entrée) ¢ . . ib.
Cold Fowls en Friture (Entrée) 267
Scallops of Fowl au aaeanemnet
(intr ée) 5 ° ae ke
Grillade of cold Fowls. . . . 268
Cold Fowls (the houpekoapes6 re-
ceipt) a supper dish, oie

Fowls @ la Mayonnaise é

To roast Ducks . tig. Po) ae a)
Stewed Duck (Entrée) Witt ne 200
To roast Pigeons . . e - 270
Boiled Pigeons A ° e - vib.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIUL
GAME.

To choose Game . ane as Arp
To roast a Haunch of Venison . 272

To stew a Shoulder of Venison . 273
To hash Venison . A - . 274
To roast a Hare . ; . abs
Roast Hare (superior receipt) . 275
Stewed Hare , 4 ‘ - 276
To roast a Rabbit e * « 277
To boil Rabbits . 5 : e ib.
Fried Rabbit 5 ‘ 7 eis
‘To roast a Pheasant . . 278

Boudin of Pheasant, a la Riche-

liew (Entrée) : : sels
To roast Partridges . « 279
Boiled Partridges : . - 280
Partridges with Mushrooms oid:

Broiled Partridge (breakfast dish) 281
Broiled Partridge (French receipt) ib.
The French, or Red-legged Part-
ridge ib.
To aa Black Cock and Grey
Hen > . . ° . 282

To roast Grouse . ib.
A salmi of Moorfowl, "Pheasants
or Partridges (Entrée) . 283
A French salmi, or hash ‘of
Game (Entrée) . . “lds
To roast Woodcocks or Snipes . 284
To roast the Pintail or Sea-
Pheasant ‘ ‘ 5 ces

To roast Wild Ducks . 3
A salmi or hash of Wild Fowl . a

CHAPTER XIV.

CURRIES,

Remarks on Curries .

Mr. Arnott’s Currie Powder - 287
Mr. Arnott’s Currie . 3 . 288
A Bengal Currie (Entrée) Gtlee depen 1:
A dry Currie (EZnirée) . 5 - 289

A common Indian Currie (En-
trée) . 290
Selim’s Curries (Captain White’s)

(Entrée) Piet ce tne ereu L
_ Curried Maccaroni (Entrée) SDs
Curried Eggs (Entrée) z . 292

Curried Sweeibreads (Fnitrée) . ib.

POTTED MEATS, &e.

CHAPTER XV.

VEGETABLES.

Observations on Vegetables 5 . 299
To clear Vegetables from Insects. 300

To boil Vegetables green . Gua hee
To boil Potatoes (genuine Irish
receipt) . ' «ab,
To boil Paiatoad (Lancashire re-
ceipt) . . ° - 301
To boil new Potatoes : . wan;
New Potatoes in Butter 3 - 302
To boil Potatoes (Captain Kater’s
receipt) . . e ib.
To roast or bake Potatoes a < iD:

Scooped Potatoes (Entremets) . ib.

Curried Oysters (Hnirée) . . 298
Curried Gravy . . fs - 294
Potted Meats : ° - 295
Potted Ham 4 7 Fe . 296
Potted Chicken, Partridge, or
Pheasant : ; 5 - 297
Potted Ox Tongue ° A Papi
Potted Anchovies . . runs
Lobster Butter . 5 A . 298
Potted Shrimps, or Prawns - ib.
Potted Mushrooms (see Chapter
e e s e ° ° ib.
Fried Potatoes (Entremets) - 803
Mashed Potatoes . - . - ,ib.
English Potato Balls . - 304
Potato Bouleties (good) (Entre-
mets) . . be Ds
Potato Rissoles (French) : = dbs
Potatoes d la Maitre d’Hotel . 305
Potatoes @ la Créme . “ - ibe
To boil Sea-Kale (Entremets) . ib.
Sea-Kale stewed in Gravy (En-
tremets) ‘ ib.
Spinach (French receipt) ( Entre- “8

‘CONTENTS,

Spinach @ lV’ Anglaise, or English
fashion (Entremets) . 306
Spinach (common English mode) 307
Another common English receipt
for Spinach . «Ds

Boiled Turnip Radishes c: «-1dDe
Boiled Leeks : . : Ap wy
Stewed Lettuces . “ : Ae as
To boil Asparagus ‘ - 308

Asparagus - points dressed like
Peas (Entremets) . ° «aD.

To boil Green Peas. “

Green Peas ad la Francaise, or

French fashion (Eniremets). ib.
Green Peas with cream (Entre-
mets) .. : 310

To boil French Beans . . . aid.
French Beans @ la Francaise

(Entremets) . ib.
An excellent receipt for French

Beans @ la Francaise . . 311
To boil Windsor Beans - aed.
Dressed Cucumbers . ib.
Mandrang, or Mandram (West

Indian receipt) . . 312

Another receipt for Mandram Se by
Dressed Cucumber (Author’s re-
ceipt) . ib.

Stewed Cucumber (English mode) 313
Cucumbers @ ia Poulette (Entre-
mets) . ib.
Cucumbers @ la Créme (Entre-
mets). . - 314
Fried Cucumbers, to serve in
common stews, hashes, and
minces . . ‘ : aD
Melon .°' . A ib.

Salad . ; : c :
French Salad 3 ;
Suffolk Salad B é
Yorkshire Ploughman’s Salad mud:

Des Cerneaux, or Walnut Salad
To boil Cauliflowers . .

Caulifiowers, French receipt Ib.
Cauliflowers with Parmesan
Cheese . 4 ejattle
Cauliflowers a la Francaise agiDs
Broccoli . . ‘ . 317

xxi
Vegetable Marrow e “ . 318
Tomatas en Salade . 7 318
Roast Tomatas . 3 3 ib.

Stewed Tomatas . . P ib.
Forced Tomatas (English receipt) 319
Forced Tomatas (French receipt) ib.
Purée of Tomatas ° c - 320
Mushrooms au Beurre . - ib.
Potted Mushrooms é 3 . B21
Mushroom-Toast, or Croute awx

Champignons . ° .
Truffles. A 2 322
Truffles with Champagne (a la

Serviette) (Entremets)
Truffles @ I’Italienne (Entre-

mets) . 323
To boil Sprouts, Cabbages, or

Savoys . : : 4 iD.
Stewed Cabbage . ° : seks
To boil Turnips . ‘ - 324
To mash Turnips . ib.
Turnips in white Sauce (Entre-

mets) . 6 4 ib.
Turnips stewed in Butter 325
Turnips in Gravy. . : ails
To boil Carrots . ib.
Carrots, the Windsor are (En-

=, ECG a Sith : . 326
Sweet Carrots (Entremets) c ib.
Carrots aw Beurre . - 327
To boil Parsneps . fi - ib.
Fried Parsneps . a ees
Jerusalem Artichokes . : ib.
To fry Jerusalem Artichokes (Bn.

tremets) . . 328
Jerusalem Artichokes a ‘la

Reine (Entremets) ib.

Mashed Jerusalem Artichokes .
Flaricots Blanes . * : «Ds
To boil Beet-Root - p ia
To Bake Beet-root 4 A re

Stewed Beet-root . ° ib.
To stew Red Cabbage (Flemish
receipt) . ‘ . . ib.

Brussels Sprouts ° : ° :
Salsify . .
Fried Salsify (Entremets) . ean
Boiled Celery : .

To boil ‘Artichokes - = - ib. | Stewed Celery (Entremets). ib.
Artichokes en Salade (Hors Stewed Onions . oi Bhd ib.

ad Giwvre) K ‘ P - ib. Stewed Chestnuts. . . 833

CHAPTER XVI
PASTRY.

Introduetory remarks .-" . . 334 | Cream Crust (very good) . . 387
To glaze or ice Pastry . . - 335 | Pate Brisée (or French Crust for
Feitilletage, or fine Puff Paste . ib. hot or cold Meat Fes) ib,
Very good light Paste A - 336 | Flead Crust y cee. 1D.
English Puff Paste . . . ib. | Common Suet-Crust for Pies . 338

Xxil
Very superior Suet-Crust . - 838
Very rich short Crust for Tarts . 339

‘Briorhe Paste. 5 ip.
Modern Potato Pasty (an excel-
lent family dish) . : . 340
Casserole of Rice : . 842
Agocdcommon English: Game Pie 342
~ Modern Chicken Pie

- A common Chicken Pie . . 344
Pigeon Pie . ° ° ° iD.
Beef-steak Pie . . ° *1 aD.
Mutton Pie (common) . - 345
A good Mutton Pie . - 345
Raised Pies . 5 s . 346
A Vol-au- Vent ( Entrée) 5 » 347

A Vol-au- VentofFruit( Entremets)349
A Vol-au-Vent a la Créme (En-

tremets) . . 349
Oyster Patties (Entrée) . . 349
Good Chicken Patties (Entrée) . 350

Patties @ la Pontife, and @ la
Cardinale(Entrées) . . 350
Excellent Meat Rolls . = - 351
Patties, Tartlets, and small Vols-
au- Vents . . - 351
Another receipt for Tartlets Ailey
ASefton, or Veal Custard ( Entrée) 352
Apple Cake, or German Tart (En-
tremets) Z . 352
Tourte Meringuée, or “Tart with
royal icing (Hntremets) . 353
A good Apple Tart, and Creamed
Apple Tart ( Entremets) . 354

CONTENTS.

Barberry Tart ( Enéremets) » 354
Genoises & la Reine, or her Ma-
jesty’s Pastry (Entremets) . 355

Almond Paste . » id.
Tartlets of Almond Paste ‘(En-
tremets) 5 . 306
Mincemeat (Author? s receipt) - 307
Superlative Mincemeat . = bs

Mince Pies (Entremets) . . 858
Mince Pies Royal (Hnitremets) . ib.
The Monitor’s Tart, or Tourte @ _
la Judd (Entremets) .
Pudding Pies (Entremets) .
Common Pudding Pies . :
Cocoa-Nut Cheesecakes (Entre-
mets) . 5 ib.
Lemon Cheesecakes, Christ-
Church College receipt (En-.
tremets) . 860
Common Lemon Tartlets (Entre- :
mets) . ead
Madame Werner’s ” Rosenvik
Cheesecakes (Entremets) .
Créme Patissiére,or Pastry Cream
Small Vols-au- Vents & la Howitt
(Entremets) . . 362
Pastry Sandwiches (Entremets) . ib.
Lemon Sandwiches (#ntremets) ib.
Fanchonettes (Entremets) . — . 863
Currant-Jelly Tartlets, or Cus-
tards (Entremets) : :
Ramakins @ l’Ude, or Sefton-
Fancies (second course remove) ib. °

361
ib.

ib.

CHAPTER XVII.
BOILED PUDDINGS.

- 864
366

General Directions
A ley for washing Pudding-cloths
To clean Currants for Puddings

or Cakes ° :
To mix Batter for Puddings aa lig
Suet Crust for Meat, or Fruit

Pudding : ‘ 5

Butter Crust for Puddings . sul.
Beef-steak, or John Bull’s ; Pudding 368
Small Beef-steak Pudding . 369
Ruth Pinch’s Pudding, or Beef-
steak Pudding @ la Dickens. ib.
Superlative Beef Puddin spabs
Mutton Pudding Bic a . 370
Partridge Pudding “Ye.” 4. ib:
Common Batter Pudding . Ay tee
Another Batter Pudding . . 371
L'ack Cap Pudding . * ow IDs
Ba.ter eee Pudding . ° - ib.
ish Su . - 372
eo riige ls
e ° ib.

Apple, Currant, Cherry, or other

fresh Fruit Pudding . . 372
A common Apple Pudding . » 373
The Publisher’s Pudding . - 374
Her Majesty’s Pudding fe - 375
Small Custard Pudding . «10.
Common Custard Pudding . Fg 8s
Prince Albert’s Pudding . - 376
German Pudding and Sauce - ib.
A Cabinet Pudding . F - 377
A very fine Cabinet Pudding . ib.
Miss Bremer’s Pudding . . 378
Very good Raisin Pudding . . 379
A superior Raisin Pudding . + SD.

The Cig pe teseome Pud-
din "4 . 380
Pudding a la Scoones . °

ib,

Ingoldsby Christmas Pudding . ib.

Cottage Christmas Pudding - 381

Small light Plum Pudding - ib:
Another Pudding (light and

wholesome) »© ce « ei

“CONTENTS.

Vegetable Plum Pudding (cheap
and good) .

An. ae small Mincemeat
Pudding : ib.

The Author’s Christmas “Pud-
ding. : are) ag

A Well Pudding — 7 : . 5
Rolled Pudding . ‘ ° é
Bread Pudding c - ;
Brown Bread Pudding -
A good boiled Ricé Pudding -
Cheap Rice Pudding . _
Rice and Gooseberry Pudding °

XXill

Tomata Pudding or Dumplings
(American receipt) :

Fashionable Apple Dumplings . ib.
Orange Snow Balls . ' « 387
Apple Snow Balls ° : aide

Light Currant Dumplings . % ib.
Lemon Dumplings : oe 1De
Suffolk, or Hard Dumplings «ibe,
Norfolk Dumplings . - 388

Sweet boiled Patties (good). Aa iie

Boiled Rice to serve with stewed
Fruit, Preserve, or Raspberry
Vinegar oa: wear wy eile

CHAPTER XVIII.
BAKED PUDDINGS.

Introductory Remarks 3
The Printer’s Pudding Ps .
Almond Pudding S
An excellent Lemon Pudding
Another Lemon Pudding . “
Lemon Stet Pudding. . .
Bakewell Pudding . ee
Ratafia Pudding . ;
The elegant Economist’s Pudding
Rich Bread. and Butter Pudding
A common Bread and Butter
Pudding °
‘A good baked Bread Pudding ‘
Another baked Bread Pudding .
A good Semoulina Pudding .
French Semoulina Pudding, or
Gdteau de Semoule . .
Sutherland, or Castle Puddings .
out Puddings (to be served
1

co f “ ; : -
A French Rice Pudding, or Gda-

teau de Riz . ‘ : -
A common Rice Pudding .
Richer Rice Pudding . 3 .
Rice Pudding Meringué . .
Good ground Rice Pudding ‘
Common ground Rice Pudding .
Green Gooseberry Pudding. .

: a0

-
892

|
|

\
\

- 3889 , Potato Pudding . eee - 400
cot A richer Potato Pudding .

An excellent Sponge Cake Pud-
ding ° - ib.
The Duchess’s Pudding - a abs
Baked Apple Pudding, or Custard 402
Another baked Apple Pudding . ib.

- | A.common baked Apple Pudding ib.

' Essex Pudding (cheap and good) 403

| Gabrielle’s Pudding, or sweet Cas-

ies

Dutch Custard, or baked Rasp-
berry Pudding . «2b

CHAPTER XIX.
SOUFFLES, OMLETS, ETC.

Observations on Omlets, Fritters,
Cc. é ‘ : Z f

Omlette aux Fines Herbes .
- A common Omlet F : ‘
An Omlette Sougjiée (Entremets)
or second-course remove) .

- 410
ib.

41]

serole of Rice ‘ . Pople
: Vermicelli Pudding . e . 404
Small Cocoa-nut Pudding . . 405
Good Yorkshire Pudding . a ae
Common Yorkshire Pudding . 406
ie ormandy Pudding . P ~) IDs
‘ Damson and Rice Pudding - ib.
Barberry and Rice Pudding . ibe
Apple and Rice Pudding . . 407
Common Raisin Pudding . «> Ibe
A richer Raisin Pudding . - ib.
Poor Author’s Pudding c o> Ie?
Pudding @ la Paysanne (cheap
! and good) . ‘ F . 408
Indian Pudding . e ° Pais | 08
Baked Hasty Pudding ° - ide
| Sougiés . - 411

Rice Souffié (second-course re-
move) . ae - 412

Louise Franks’ Citron Soufflé . ib.

A Fondu (second course re-
move) . ° oe) tee. 413

XXIV

Kentish Fritters (Entremets) . 414
Plain common Fritters (Entve-

mets) . 5 « ib.
Pancakes ( Entremets) - xeealay
Fritters of Cake and Pudding

(Entremets) . ° . ao ig

‘Mincemeat Fritters (Entremets).
‘Venetian Fritters (very good) . iD
Fritters of Spring Fruit( Entremets)416
‘Apple, Peach, Apricot, or Orange
Fritters (Entremets) . oy, aD
Brioche Fritters (Entremets)
Potato Fritters (Entremets) :
Lemon Fritters (Eniremets) .
Cannelons (Entremets) . 2B:
Cannelons of Brioche paste. -418

CONTENTS.

Croquettes of Rice (Entremets). 418

Finer Croquettes of Rice . . 419

Savoury Croquettes of Rice( Entrée) ib.
4

Rissoles (Entrée) : 20
Very savoury Rissoles (Entrée). ib.
Rissoles of fish (Entrée) . . ib.

To boil Pipe Maccaroni ; 74
Ribband Maccaroni . ‘ :
Dressed Maccaroni (Entremets,
or second course remove) . ib.
Maccaroni é@ la Reine . ‘
Polenta, an Italian dish (second
course remove) . sees
Forced Eggs for Salad. 4 . 424
Forced Eggs, or Eggs en surprise
(Entremets). «2. «6 «ibd.

CHAPTER XxX.

SWEET DISHES,

To prepare Calf’s Feet Stock . 425
To clarify Calf’s Feet Stock - 426
To clarify Isinglass . A « ib.

Spinach Green, for colouring
Sweet Dishes, Confectionary,
or Soups j ‘ . 427
Prepared Apple or Quince Juice. ib.
Cocoa-nut flavoured Milk (for
sweet dishes, &c.) . : - 428
Compotes of Fruit e eieke © ib.
Compote of Peaches. . - 480
Another receipt for stewed
Peaches . ib.
‘Stewed Barberries, or Compote
. @ Epine-Vinetie . : .
‘Another Compote of Barberries
j for Dessert . . ° .
Gateau de Pommes . < °
Gédteaw of mixed Fruits (good) .
‘Calf’s Feet Jelly
Another receipt for Calf’s. Feet

Jelly . e . 434
Apple Calf’s Feet J elly ee a aelles
Orange Calf’s Feet Jelly .. . 485
Grange Isinglass Jelly . e - 436
Oranges filled with Jelly . ALO
'. Lemon Calf’s Feet Jelly . . 437
en Jelly . : . loys
_ Strawberry Isinglass J by - 438
Fancy Jellies a . 489
Queen Mab’s Pudding Mar -ele-
gant summer dish) ° - 440
Nesseiréde Cream Se ti . 44)
Créne a& la Comtesse, or the

Countess’s Cream .n - 442
An excellent Trifle . °
Swiss Cream, or Trifle (very good) 443
Tipsy Oe or Brandy Trifle . 444

OR ENTREMETS.

Chantilly Basket filled with
whipped Cream and fresh
Strawberries . = : . 444

Créme Meringuée : R « ab.
Lemon Cream, made without
Cream , . ° A
Very good Lemon Creams c ) ie
Fruit Creams, and Italian Creams 446
Very superior whipped Syllabubs ib.
Good common Blamange,orBlanc
Manger (Author’s receipt) .
Richer Blamange . . ; - ib.
Jaumange, or Jaune Manger ;
sometimes called Dutch Plum-

mery . 448
Eevkfewiole good Sinavition gt Bla-
mange . t Ds

Quince Blamange "(delicious) 67 ib.
Quince Blamange, with Almond
Cream . ; . 449
Apricot .Blamange, or Créme
Parisienne . “ “re ID.
Blamange Rubané, or striped

Blamange . : “ . 450
Currant Blamange . ,. -: ats
Strengthening Blamange . . 451
Lemon Sponge, or Moulded

Lemon Cream . ib.
An Apple Hedgehog, or Suédoise 452
Imperial Gooseberry-fool . p ED.
Very good old-fashioned

Custard . : :
Rich boiled Custard .
The Queen’s Custard .
Currant Custard .
Quince or Apple Custards
‘The Duke’s Custard .
Chocolate Custards .

boiled

“Gooseberries dried without Sugar

‘CONTENTS.

Common baked Custard . 2 455
“A finer baked Custard . ‘ . 456
French Custards . A Pests:
German Puffs Pee 4 . 457

Meringue of Pears, or other fruit ib.
An Apple Charlotte, or Charlotte

de Ponumes . eels
Marmalade for the Charlotte 3 abe
A Charlotte @ la Parisienne > abs
A Gertrude @ la Créme . . 458

{ Pommes au Beurre (Buttered

Apples, exceilent) o » 459
Suédoise of Peaches . . - 460
Arocé Docé (cr Sweet Rice.

ala Portugaise) . 3 461

Buttered Cherries (Cerises au

Beurre) . s é : «adh.
Sweet Maccaroni . P , 462.
Bermuda Witches . A ib.
Nesselréde Pudding . Z . 463

CHAPTER XXI.
PRESERVES.

Introductory remarks . 3 . 464

A few General Rules and Direc-
tions for Preserving

To Extract = Juice of Plums

- 466

for Jell . 468
To weigh the J uice of Fruit oe:
Rhubarb Jam . < 3 ead,

Green Gooseberry J elly - C
Green Gooseberry Jam (firm and
of good colour) . . weds

To dry green Gooseberries . + ibs
Green Gooseberries for Tarts . 470
Green Gooseberry Solid : » ib.
Red Gooseberry Jam . . - IDs
Very fine Gooseberry Jam . - 471
Jelly of ripe Gooseberries aad
lent) . «1D.
emixed Gooseberry J relly . « « 472
Gooseberry Paste. A ib.
To dry ripe Gooseberries with
Sugar. ib.

Cherry Jam .
To dry Cherries “with Sugar (a

quick and easy method) she ah Oy
Dried Cherries (superior receipt). 474
Cherries dried without Sugar . ib.
Morella Cherries . ‘ - «475
Common Cherry Cheese . aD.
Cherry Paste (French). : Alatee
Strawberry Jam . “ é pyaD.
Strawberry Jelly . - 476
Another very fine: Strawberry

Jelly . : IDs

To preserve Strawberries or Rasp-
berries, for Creams or Ices,
without boiling . ‘ .

Raspberry Jam .

Good Red or White “Raspberry

Jam ib.
Raspberry Jelly “for ‘flavouring
Creams . . 478

Another Raspberry Jelly (very
id. ib.
ib.

° ° °

Red Currant Jelly °
Superlative Red. Currant oy elly

(Norman receipt) . ( «aD.
French Currant Jelly . ‘ 480
Delicious Red Currant Jam 5 ce lor
Very fine White Currant Jelly . 481 -

White Currant Jam, a beautiful

Preserve . : ; habe
Currant Paste rs : ede
Fine Black Currant J: elly : . 482
Common Black Currant Jelly. . ib.
Black Currant Jam . . abs

Nursery Preserve. ‘ ls
Another good common Preserve 483
Agood Me élange,or mixed Preserve ib.
Groseillée(anothergood Preserve) ib.
A fine Preserve of the Green
Orange Plum (sometimes

called the Stonewood Plum) 484
Greengage Jam, or Marmalade . ib.
Preserve of the Magnum Bonum, ~

or Mog ms; ;'. c :
To dry or preserve Mogul Pums

in syrup ~ + @ib,
Mussel Plum Cheese and J élly oA De
Apricot Marmalade . A » 486
To dry Apricots (a quick and

easy method) ‘ at ons
Dried Apricots (French receipt) . 487
Peach Jam, or Marmalade . 488
To preserve, or to dry Peaches or. —

Nectarines (an easy and ex- |

cellent receipt) . ‘ «iB:
Damson Jam (very good) . 489
Damson Jelly ' ‘ 4 « iD,
Damson solid (good) . 4 ands
Excellent Damson Cheese . 490
Grape Jelly . sey 7 ib.
English Guava . 5 ib.
Very fine Imperatrice Plum Mar-

malade . : . 491
To dry Imperatrice Plums (an

easy method) = . 492

To bottle Fruit for winter use . ib.
| Apple Jelly . . : ° - 493

ate

XXVI

Exceedingly fine mee Jelly

Quince Jelly : ; - 494
Quince Marmalade “ - 495
Quince and Apple Marmalade . 496
Quince Paste A 7 As oy
Jelly of Siberian Crabs * ib.

To preserve Barberries in bunches 497

CONTENTS.

Barberry Jam (second receipt) . 498
Very common Jam . “ - ib.
Superior Barberry J elly, and Mar-

malade . . 4 +<.iD.
Orange Marmalade . ; . 499
Genuine Scotch Marmalade * 500

Orange Conserve for Puddings . 501

Barberry Jelly -. ib. | Lemon Conserve, ee 2 « ibe
Barberry Jam (a good receipt) - 498
CHAPTER XXII.
PICKLES.
‘ Observations on Pickles e- + 502, To pickle Walnuts ° A itd
r To pickle Cherries . ° - 503 | To pickle Beet-root . . . 508
Topickle Gherkins . . ib. | Pickled Eschalots ogre, eee d De
To pickle Gherkins (a French Pickled Onions’ 4.7). "15 ab.
receipt) To pickle Lemons and Limes
To pickle Peaches, and Peach (excellent) 22... ei enue
Mangoes 5 - ib. | To pickle Nasturtiums ; ib,
Sweet Pickle of Melon, to serve To pickle Barberries and Sibe-
Eta with roast meat (good) . 505 rian Crabs , e . - 510
To pickle Mushrooms - . 506 | Pickled Cabbage oC re. ie ee
Ay, Mushrooms in brine, for winter .
use (very good) . . - 507
- CHAPTER XXIIL
CAKES.
Saas Remarks on Cakes - 511 { A good Madeira Cake . 5 . 519
To blanch Almonds . . .4512{| A Solimemne (a rich French
To pound Almonds . . s ADs breakfast cake,or Sally Lunn) ib.
-.To reduce Almond a Paste Banbury Cakes . . . - 520
(the quickest and easiest way) -ib. | Meringues . “ . ° - 521
- To colour Almonds or Sugar- Italian Meringues : oh 22
grains, for Cakes or Pastry . 518 | Thick, light Gingerbread . . ib.
To prepare Butter for rich Cakes. ib. | Good common Gingerbread - 523
To whisk Eggs for light rich Richer Gingerbread . : . “ib.
Cakes . i : - ib. | Cocoa-nut Gingerbread . «ape

Orange-Flower Macaroons (de-
licious) . 4 . . . 514

Almond Macaroons . = bib.

Cocoa-nut Macaroons (very fine) 515

Imperials (not very rich) . .- ib.
Very good small rich Cakes ScD.
- Almond Rocher . A > sabe
Bitter Almond Biscuits . . 516
Fine Almond Cake . . SISEDS
Pound Cake A * . POLE,
Rice Cake . r 4 6 iF te Ds
White Cake Shee i: eer Ds
A good Sponge Cake . ‘ . 518
A smaller Sponge Cake (very .
ib.

00d) ce"). " c :
A Sponge Cake (good and quickly
WHQ0G) Bred 0): ay steed ee OLD

‘| Most excellent Buns . < 3

Another. receipt for Cocoa-nut

Gingerbread . . . 524
Parliament . : . ° » ib.
Cheap Ginger Biscuits <4 ib.

Judge Franks’ Ginger Biscuits
(very good) . . .
Chestnut Biscuits :
Isle of Wight Dough-Nuts .
Cinnamon, or Lemon Cakes
Queen Cakes * ° .
Jumbles . °
A cheap common “Cake °
A good Soda Cake . .
A good light Bun .-
Cocoa-nut Biscuit (excellent) :

tO OR Cee 8 @ ee
6 2 bate ele ; or

“A Galette . e ° °

CONTENTS. XxXvil

Cornish heavy Cake . . - 530 | Good Captain’s Biscuits wn OSL
Fleed, or Flead Cakes ° - ib. | The Colonel’s Biscuits ; - ID.
‘ Threadneedle-street Biscuits - 531 | Aunt Charlotte’s Biscuits . . ib.

a CHAPTER XXIV.
CONFECTIONARY.
To clarify Sugar . : - 5382 | Orange-Flower Candy (another
To boil Sugar from Syrup to receipt) . = C : :
Candy to Caramel i - 583 | Cocoa-nut Candy ° : « iby
Caramel (the quickest ray) - 534 | Palace Bon-Bons ° ° . 537
Barley Sugar é . -- ib. Everton Toftie’ "ss aD
Nougat bois: Pirsae ja 64D, :| Lottie (another Way )ip sa seen sae ;
Ginger Candy 3 - . 535 | Chocolate Drops : ©. ye OD
Sores eres Candy . . 5386 | Chocolate Almonds . e aa ARs

CHAPTER XXYV.

DESSERT-DISHES.
.
Mélange of Fruit : ; - 539 | Baked Compote of Apples (our
Fruit en Chemise or Perlé els little lady’s receipt) . . 542
Peach Salad . 5 A c - 540 | To bake Pears . 5 et £0 . ib.
Orange Salad ji ib. | Stewed Pears < , 2) eet Os
Compote of Oranges (a Hebrew Boiled Chestnuts . F : . 543
dish) . C - 5 - ib. | Roast Chestnuts . . gn? toes
Oranges warmed . 3 . ib. | Almond Shamrocks (very good
Black Caps par excellence : . 541 and very pretty) . Raise ig 1:
Normandy Pippins . ; ib. | Small Sugar Souffiés . , ay egy:
Stewed Pruneaux de Tours, or ‘hin ness.
Tours dried Plums a AD. ini * AM, |
Se: i
e)
CHAPTER XXVI. ;
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC. Mi
Strawberry Vinegar, of delicious The Regent’s, or George the abt
flavour . : r - 545 Fourth’s, Punch . ~ - 551 oM
Strawberry Acid Royal : - 546] The old Bachelor’s Punch . « id, Mars cs
Very fine Raspberry Vinegar .547/ Mint Julep (an American re- var
Fine Currant Syrup, or Sirop de ceipt) . - « 952
Groseilles . . ib. | Delicious Milk Lemonade : « ibs
Orange-flower Ratafia (a delicious Excellent Portable Lemonade . ib.
liqueur) . . ° . - 548 | Excellent Barley Water (poor Y x
Oxford Punch. 5 TID: _ Xury’s receipt) . ib.
Oxford receipt for Bishop . - 549 | Raisin Wine (which, if long kept,
Cambridge Milk Punch ; *) 1D. really resembles foreign) . 553
To Mull Wine (an excellent French | Elderberry Wine(very good) . ib.
receipt) . a . - 550 [ Very good Ginger Wine . - 554
A birthday Syllabub > j . ib. | Excellent Orange Wine rari |3
Cuirasseau, or Curacoa(an excel- Counsellor’s Cup . . C - 555

___ lent and wholesome liqueur) 551 4

XXVill CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVIL
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.

To roast Coffee . “ A

. 556 called. Gloria) . . 559-
To make Coffee . - «557 | To make Chocolate (French re-

Burnt Coffee (in France vulgarly ceipt) . re ey) igh

CHAPTER XXVIII.

BREAD.

To purify Yeast for Bread or Cakes 560 ; Rusks .. - . O64
The Oven . A ; ; - ib. | Crusts to serve with Cheese : . 565
To make Bread . - 561 | Cocoa-nut Bread . - 105
Bordyke Bread (Author’s receipt) 562 | Excellent Bread Crust for Hot

_ Brown Bread | . 4 . - 563 Pies or Tarts , is
Potato Bread ° 5 5 - ib. | English Brioche, and Br ioche-
Geneva Rolls 5 e ° . 564 Rusks . 2 ; antes

APPENDIX.

Cherry-Brandy a uappington: Eve-

The Gentle Critic’s Tourte a la
Créme . A

e, e °

A Peas Pudding (to serve weit

second course 5 S ;

rard receipt) . . 566 boiled pork) . . 575
Brandied Morella Cherries : - ib. | The Poor Curate’s Pudding - O76
Peaches in cei (Rotterdam The Cavalier’s Broil . ib.

receipt) . - + «ib. | Veal Goose (City of London
Chantilly Pectin 5 A . 567 receipt . . 576
To make Orange Baskets for Jelly ib. | To Dress Rein Deer Tongues . O77
Strawberry Tartlets (good) . . ib. | Currant Shrub. ib.
Raspberry Puffs . ° . « ib. | Sausage Soup (Swedish receipt) . ib.

Creamed Tartlets. . . . ib. | Calf ’s Liver Stoved, or Stewed . 578
Norfolk Cheese Cakes . 568 | Sugar-Glazings, and Icings (for
Store Mixture fo Tartlets fine pastry and cakes) . va A

(which will remain good for To Dress and to Choose Macea-

a year or two 3 ib. roni, and other Italian pastes 579
Puffs @ la Colburn (extremely Venetian Cake, or Cakes (super-

goo . excellent . - 580
Rice @ la Vati ek ib. | Scottish Shortbread (excellent) . 581
Croustades, 0 Sweet Patties a Excellent Short Crust for sweet

la minute . pastry . otis
Crisped Potatoes, or Potato- Aue. Kegntye "(German re-

Ribbons (to serve with eipt) . ib.

Cheese) . 5 x . 571 Fairy Fancies (Fantarsres de
Savoury Toasts . ib. DT Oe ‘ . 582
Croquettes of Shrimps (Entrée) 571 An Admirable Cool Cup Ns 583
Trufiied Omlet (Entremets) - 572 | Moulded Rice, or nage and
A Poivrade Sauce 4 2 ore Apple-juice . : 3) fale
An English Potvrade Sauce - ib. | To Dress Carp (a common coun-
The Poet’s Receipt for Salad . 573 try receipt. . . 584
Lobster Salad (Entremets) . ib.| Moulded Potted Meat for the

CONTENTS.

XXIX

APPENDIX, No IL ~

Curried Soles .
To poach Eggs 6
Poached Eggs with Gravy (Entre-

mets) Gufs Pochés au Jus 584d
Broiled Hels with Sage (Entrée) Ger-

man receipt . C ais
Potted Lobsters (Entremets) . 584¢
Lobsier Cutlets (a superior Entrée) ib.
Superlative Lobster Patties . . 584d
Lobster Sausages . “ i Ds
To steam a Pudding in a common

Stewpan or Saucepan . eclipse
Maize Pudding (an excellent substi-
- tute for Potatoes) . = . 584e

Pudding of Polenta, or Italian Flour

of Maize . ; 584e
Sweet Pudding of Polenta 4 + Ibe
Polenta a VItalienne . . 584f

Mush, or Porridge of Maize- Meal,
which resembles the Scottish
Crowdie . :

Shrimps, Potted, Whole (an admir-
able receipt) ue

To render Chickens white, for poil-
in aL Oe

Saree Soup and Soup ala J alienne 584h

TRUSSING AND CARVING.

TRUSSING :—*
General Directions for Trussing Xxxili
To truss a Turkey, Fowl, Phea-
sant, or Partridge, for roast-

ing . : : C fe 8.8-9:°4)
CARVING:—
No.1. Cod’s Head and Shoulders
(and Cod Fish generally) xxxvii
No. 2. A Turbot 5 é . XXXViii
Soles E “ - A ib.

No.3. Salmon . : ib.

No. 4. Saddle of Mutton A ; ib.
No. 5. A Haunch of Venison (or
Mutton) . RMB 8:6:4-6
No. 6. Sirloin of Beef F : ib.
Ribs of Beef . e : ib.
Around of Beef . A ib.
-A brisket of Beef . - ib.
No. 7. Leg of Mutton : . x1
No, 8. A quarter of Lamb : ib.

No. 9. Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb ib.

No. 10. A Sucking Pig . C xl
A fillet of Veal . : ib.
- Aloin of Veal. A xli
No.1]. A Breast of Veal . ' ib.
No. 12. A Tongue . q : ib.
No. 13. A Calf’s Head. 6 ib.
No.14.A Ham. . ‘ < xlii
No. 15. A Pheasant > ‘ xliii
No. 16. A boiled Fowl . ib.
No. 17. A roast Fowl : xliv
No. 18. A Partridge - 0 ib.
No. 19. A Woodcock : é xIv
No. 20. A Pigeon . ( . ib.
No. 21. A Snipe . F xlvi
No, 22. A Goose é < b ib.
Ducks . : Z — ADs
No. 28. A Wild Duck xlvii
No. 24. A Turkey «5. = ib.
No, 25. A Hare ae. ; ib.

. A Fricandeau of Veal xlviii

VOCABULARY OF TERMS,

PRINCIPALLY FRENCH, USED IN MODERN COOKERY.

Aspic—fine transparent savoury
jelly, in which cold game,
poultry, fish, &c., are mould-
ed ; and which serves also to
decorate or garnish them.

AssietieVolante—a dish which is
handed round the table with-
out ever being placed upon
it. Small fondus in paper
cases are often served thus;
and various other prepara-
tions, which require to be
eaten very hot.

Blanquette—a kind of fricassee.

Boudin—a somewhat expensive
dish, formed of the French
forcemeat called quenelies,
composed either of game,
poultry, butcher’s meat, or
fish, moulded generally into
the form of a rouleau, and
gently poached until it is
firm, then sometimes: broiled
or fried, but as frequently
served plain.

Bouilli—boiled beef, or other
meat, beef being more gene-
rally understood by the term.

Bouillie—a sort of hasty pud-
ding.
Bouillon—broth.

Casserole—a stewpan; and the
name also given to a rice-
crust, when moulded in the
form of a pie, then baked
and filled* with a mince or
purée of game, or with a
blanquette of white meat.

Court Bouillon—a preparation
of vegetables and wine, in
which (in expensive cookery)
fish is boiled.

Consommée—very strong rich
stock or gravy.

Croustade—a case or crust formed
of bread, in which minces,
purées of game, and other
preparations are served.

Crouton—a sippet of bread.

Entrée—a first course side or
corner dish.*

Entremets—a second course side
or corner dish.

Espagnole, or Spanish sauce—a
brown gravy of high savour.

* Neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of entrées ;
and the same remark applies equally to the entremets in the second course.
Large standing dishes at the sides, such as raised pies, timbales, &c., served
usually in grand repasts, are called flanks ; but in an ordinary service, all the
intermediate dishes between the joints and roasts are distinguished by the name

of entrées, or entremets.

XxXXil

Farce—forcemeat.
Fondu—a cheese soufjlé.

Gateau—a cake, also a pudding,
as Giiteau de Riz; some-
times alsu a kind of tart, as
Gateau de Pithiviers.

Hors d’cuvres—small dishes of
anchovies, sardines, and
other relishes of the kind,
served in the first course.

Macaroncini—a small kind of
maccaroni.

Maigre--made without meat.

Matelote—a rich and expensive
stew of fish with wine, gene-
rally of carp, eels, er trout.

Meringue—a cake, or icing, made
of sugar and whites of egg
beaten to snow.

Meringué—covered or iced with
a meringue-mixture.

Nouilles—a paste made of yolks
of egg and flour, then cut
small like vermicelli.

VOCABULARY OF TERMS.

Purée—meat, or vegetables, re-
duced to a smooth pulp, and
then mixed with sufficient
liquid to form a thick sauce
or soup.

Quenelles—French forcemeat, for
which see page 150.

Rissoles — small fried pastry
either sweet or savoury.

Sparghettti—Naples vermicelli.

Stock—the unthickened broth or
gravy which forms the basis
of soups and sauces. ;

Tammy—a strainer of fine thin
woollen canvas.*

Timbale—a sort of pie made in
a mould.

Tourte—a delicate kind of tart,
baked generally in a shallow
tin pan, or without any, see
page 574.

Vol-au-vent—for this, see page >
347.

Zita—Naples maccaront

* Sold at the Italian warehouses. i's é

XXXII

TRUSSING.

Trussing Needles.

Common and untrained cooks are often deplorably ignorant of
this branch of their business, a knowledge of which is, neverthe-
less, quite as essential to them as is that of boiling or roasting,
for without it they cannot, by any possibility, serve up dinners
of decently creditable appearance. We give such brief general
directions for it as our space will permit, and as our own obser-
vation enables us to supply; but it has been truly said, by a
great authority in these matters, that trussing cannot be “ taught

by words ;” we would, therefore, recommend, that instead of

relying on any written instructions, persons who really desire
thoroughly to understand the subject, and to make themselves
acquainted with the mode of entirely preparing all varieties of
game and poultry more especially, for table, in the very best
manner, should apply for some practical lessons to a first-rate
poulterer; or, if this cannot be done, that they should endeavour
to obtain from some well-experienced and skilful cook the in-
struction which they need. 1

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING.

Before a bird is trussed the skin must be entirely freed from
any.down which may be vn it, and from all the stubble-ends of
the feathers ;* the hairs also must be singed from it with lighted
writing paper, care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in
the operation. - Directions for cleansing the insides of birds after
they are drawn, are given in the receipts for dressing them,
Chapters xii. and xiii.

Turkeys, geese, ducks—wild or tame, fowls, and pigeons,
should all have the necks taken off close to the bodies, but not
the skin of the necks, which should be left sufficiently long to

* This should be particularly attended to.
Cc

XXXIV TRUSSIN ,

turn down upon the backs for a couple of inches or more, where
it must be secured, either with a needle and coarse soft cotton,
or by the pinions of the birds when trussed.

For boiling, all poultry or other birds must have the feet
drawn off at the first joint of the leg, or as shown in the en-
graving. (In the latter case the sinews of the joint must be
slightly cut, when the bone may be easily turned back as here.)
The skin must then be loosened with the
finger entirely from the legs, which must be
~, pushed back into the body, and the small
2S ’ ends tucked quite under the apron so as to be
~ entirely out of sight.

The wings of chickens, fowls, turkeys, and pigeons are left on
entire, whether for roasting or boiling. From
geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, black game, “YZ
moor-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, wild-fowl of ail\. *?:.
kinds, and all small birds, the first two joints
are taken off, leaving but one joint on, thus :—

The feet are left on ducks, and those of tame ones are trussed
as will be seen at page 269; and upon roast fowls, pheasants,
black and moor-game, pigeons, woodcocks, and snipes. The
thick coarse skin of the legs of these must be stripped, or
rubbed off with a hard cloth after they have been held in boil-
ing water, or over a clear fire for a few minutes. The sharp
talons must be pulled out, and the nails clipped. The toes of
pigeons for roasting should be cut off.

Geese, sucking-pigs, hares, and rabbits have the feet taken off
at the first joint.

The livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast
turkeys and fowls only.

The heads are still commonly left on pheasants, partridges,
and black, and moor-game; but the fashion is declining. Of
this we shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter.

Poultry and birds in general, except perhaps quite the larger
kinds, are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with
twine and needles proper to the purpose (for which see p. 33),
than with skewers. The manner in which the legs and wings are
confined is much the same for all ; the principal difference being
in the arrangement of the former for boiling, which has already
been explained.

There is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for
boiling or stewing which to our taste is more novel than attrac- -
tive. The feet are left an, and after the skin has been loesened

TRUSSING. XXXV

from them in-every part, the legs are thrust entirely into the
body by means of a slight incision made in the skin just above the.
first joint on the underside, the feet then appear almost as if
growing out of the sides of the breast: the effect of this is not
pleasing.

TO TRUSS A TURKEY, FOWL, PHEASANT, OR PARTRIDGE FOR
ROASTING.

First draw the skin of the neck down over the back, and secure
it from slipping up; then thread a trussing needle of convenient
size,* for the occasion, with packthread or small twine. (the
former, from being the most flexible, is best); pass it through
the pinion of the bird, then through the thick part of the thigh,
which must be brought up close under the wing, and in a straight
line quite through the body, and through the leg and pinion on
the other side; draw them close, and bring the needle back,
passing it through the thick part of the leg, and through the
second joint of the pinion, should it be left on the bird; tie it
quite tight ; and then to secure the legs, pierce the sidebone and
carry the twine over the legs, then pass the needle through the
other sidebone, and tie them close down. If skewers be used
they should be driven through the pinions and the legs, and a
twine passed across the back of the bird, and caught over the
points of it, and then tied in the centre of the back : this is only

- needful when the trussing is not firm.

e When the head is left on
a bird, it may still be trussed
in the same way, and the head
brought round, as shown
\)/7_.....__ here, and kept in place by a
SA canny === Skewer passed through it,
an ogg and run through the body.
Partridge. Should the bird be trussed
entirely with skewers, the point of one is brought from the other
side, through the pinions and the thighs, and the head is fixed
upon it. The legs are then pressed as much as possible under
the breast, between it and the side-bones, where they are lettered
ab, The partridge in the engraving is shown with the skewers

just. withdrawn after being roasted.
Hares, after beiny filled with forcemeat, and sewn or securely
fastened up with skewers, are brought into proper roasting form.

' © These may be had, of various sizes, at any good ironmonger’s.

XXXVI TRUSSINGe

by having the head fixed between the shoulders, and either
fastened to the back by means of a long skewer, run through
the head quite into it, or by passing one through the upper part
of the shoulders and the neck together, which will keep it
equally well in place, though less thrown back. ‘The fore-legs
are then laid straight along the sides of the hare, and a skewer
is thrust through them both and the body at the same time;
the sinews are just cut through under the hind-legs, and they
are brought forward as much as possible, and skewered in the
same manner as the others. A string is then thrown across,
under the hare and over the points of both skewers, being
crossed before it is passed over the second, and then tied above
the back. The ears of a hare are left on; those of a rabbit,
which is trussed in the same way, are taken off.

Joints of meat require but little arrangement, either for the
spit or for boiling. A fillet of veal must have the flap, or part
to which the fat adheres, drawn closely round the outside, and
be skewered or bound firmly into good shape: this will apply
equally to a round of beef. The skin or flank of loins of meat
must be wrapped over the ends of the bones, and skewered on
the underside. The cook should be particularly careful to joint
these when it has not been done by the butcher, and necks of veal
or mutton also, or much trouble will often arise to the carver.

y To flatten and bring
cutletsinto uniform shape,
a bat of this form is used;
and to egg or to cover ===
them with clarified butter Cutlet Bat.
when they dre to be crumbed, a paste-brush should
be at hand. Indeed, these and many other small
means and appliances, ought to be provided for every
cook who is expected to perform her duty in a regular
and proper manner, for they save much time and
trouble, and their first expense is very slight; yet
many kitchens are almost entirely without them.

CARVING. . XXXVIL

‘CARVING.

SK TItTT | I a

SS a aSe (TLS LG

Sea SSS aS
== S222 56=5 2

=> eases

Fish Knife, or Slice.

Wuetuer the passing fashion of the day exact it of her or not,

a gentlewoman should always, for her own sake, be able to
carve, well and easily, the dishes which are placed before her,
that she may be competent to do the honours of a table at any
time with propriety and_self-possession.* -To gentlemen, and
especially to those who mix much in society, some knowledge of
this art, and a certain degree of skill in the exercise of it, are
indispensable, if they would avoid the chance of appearing often
to great disadvantage themselves, and of causing dissatisfaction
and annoyance to others; for the uncouth operations of bad
carvers occasion almost as much discomfort to those who wit-
ness, as they do generally of awkwardness and embarrassment
to those who exhibit them.

The precise mode of carving various dishes must of course
depend on many contingencies. For a piain family-dinner, or
where strict economy is an imperative consideration, it must-
sometimes, of necessity, differ from that which is laid down here.
We have confined our instructions to the fashion usually adopted
in the world.

Carving knives and forks are to be had of many forms and
sizes, and adapted to different purposes: the former should
always have a very keen edge, and the latter two prongs only. .

No.1. ccp’s HEAD AND SHOULDERS (AND COD FISH
GENERALLY).

The thick part of the back of this, as of all large fish—salmon’
excepted—is the firmest and finest eating. It should be carved

* As this can only be accomplished by practice, young persons should be early
accustomed to carve at home, where the failure of their first attempts will cause
them much less embarrassment than they would in another sphere, and at a later
period of life.

XXXVIIL CARVING.

across, rather thick, and, as much as possible, in unbroken slices,
from a to 6. The sound, which is considered a delicacy, lies
underneath, and lines the back-bone: it must be reached with
a spoon in the direction c. The middle of the fish, when served
to a family party, may be carved in the same manner, or in any
other which convenience and economy may dictate..

No. 2. A TURBOT.

In carving this most excellent fish, the rich gelatinous skin
attached to it, and a portion of the thick part of the fins should
be served with every slice. If the point of the fish-knife be
drawn down the centre of the back through to the bone, in the
line a bc, and from thence to ddd, the flesh may easily be
raised upon the blade in handsome portions. The thickest
parts of all flat fish are the best. A brill and a John Dory are’
served exactly like a turbot. There are some choice morsels
about the head of the latter. .

SOLES.

_ The more elegant mode of serving these, and the usual one at
good tables, is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot,
which is easily done when the fish are large ; but when they are
too small well to admit of it, they must be divided across quite
through the bone: the shoulders, and thick part of the body,
are the superior portions.

No. 3. SALMON.

It is customary to serve a slice of the thick part of the back
of this fish, which is marked from a to 6, with one of the thinner
and richer portions of it, shown by the line, from ¢ to d. It
should be carved quite straight across, and the fine flakes of the
flesh should be preserved as entire as possible. Salmon-peel,
pike, haddocks, large whitings, and all fish which are served
curled round, and with the backs uppermost, are carved in the
same manner ; the flesh is separated from the ‘bone in the centre
of the back, and taken off, on the outer side first, in convenient
portions for serving. The flesh of mackerel is best raised from
the bones by passing the fish-slice from the tail to the head: it
may then be divided in two.

No. 4. SADDLE OF MUTTON.

This joint is now trussed for roasting in the manner shown.
in the engraving; and when it is dished a silver skewer replaces

CARVING. y XXX1X

the one markede. It is likewise often still served in good families
with only two or three joints of the tail left on. The most usua
mode of carving it is in thin slices cut quite along the bone, on
either side, in the line a to 6; but at simple dinners it is some-
times sliced obliquely from ¢ to d: this last fashion is rather
gaining ground. ‘The thick end of the joint must then, of course,
be to the left of the.carver. A saddle of pork or of lamb is
carved in exactly the same manner. oy

No: 5. A HAUNCH OF VENISON (OR MUTTON).

An incision must first be made entirely across the knuckle
end of this joint, quite down to the bone, in the line a 4,'to
let the gravy escape; it must then be carved in thin slices
taken as deep as they can be, the whole length of the haunch,
from ¢ tod. A portion of the fat should invariably be served
_ with the venison.

No. 6. sIRLOIN OF BEEF.

As the very tender part of this favourite joint, which lies
under the bone, and is called the /illet, is preferred by many
eaters, the beef should be raised, and some slices be taken from
it in the direction a b, before the carver proceeds further. The
slices should be cut quite across the joint, from side to side, as
indicated by the line from ¢ to d, in which direction the whole
of the meat is occasionally carved, though it is much more usual
to slice the upper part from e to f. When the brown outside
has been taken off this, it should be evenly carved in thin slices,
and served with some of the gravy in the dish, and accompanied
with horse-radish very lightly and finely scraped, with tufts by
which the beef is commonly garnished. ar

RIBS OF BEEF
Are carved in the same manner as the sirloin; but there is no
fillet attached to them.
A ROUND OF BEEF.

To carve this well, a very sharp-edged and thin-bladed knife
is requisite. A thick slice should first be taken entirely off the
top of the joint, leaving it very smooth ; it should then be cut
as thin and as evenly as possible, and delicate slices of the fat or
udder should be served with the lean.

A BRISKET OF BEEF
Is carved in slices quite across the bones.

xl CARVING.

No. 7. LEG OF MUTTON.

This, whether roast or boiled, is dished as it lies in the en-
graving, unless when fanciful eaters prefer the underside of the
joint laid uppermost, and carved quite across the middle, for the
sake of the finely-grained meat which lies beneath the part
commonly called the Pope’s eye. In a general way, the mutton
should be sliced, rather thick than thin, as directed by the line
between a and 0b; the fat will be found inthe direction c d.

No. 8. A QUARTER OF LAMB.

The shoulder must be divided, and raised entirely from the
breast in the direction of the lettersa bed. A slice of butter
sprinkled with cayenne and salt is then usually laid between
them, and a little lemon-juice is added, or a cold Maitre d Hotel
sauce is substituted for these. ‘The shoulder may then be
removed into a separate dish or not, as is most convenient. The
brisket is next separated from the long bones in the line e f, and
carved in the direction g 4; the rib-bones are divided from
t Q tojj. The choice of the different parts is offered in serving
them.

No. 9. SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB.

Commence by cutting from the outer edge direct to the bone
of the shoulder in the line a 6, and carve as many slices from
that part of the joint as it will afford ; then, if more be required,
draw the knife on either side of the ridge of the blade-bone in
the direction ec ¢dd. The fat must be carved in the line e /.
Some eaters have a preference for the juicy, but not very finely-
grained flesh on the under-side of the shoulder, which must be
turned, for it to be carved. For the mode of boning a shoulder
of mutton or veal, and giving it a more agreeable appearance,
see p. 206.

No. 10. A SUCKING PIG.

Every part ofa sucking pig is good, but some epicures consider
the flesh of the neck which lies between the shoulders, and the
ribs as the most delicate portion of it. The shoulders them-
selves are preferred by others. They should be taken off, and
the legs also, by passing the knife under them at the letters
abc. The ribs may then be easily divided from etod. The
flesh only of the larger joints should be served to ladies; but
gentlemen often prefer it sent to them on the bones.

CARVING, xli

A FILLET OF VEAL.

There is no difference between the mode of carving this and a
round of beef; but the brown outside slice of the veal is much
liked by many eaters, and a portion of it should be served to them
when it is known to be so. The forcemeat must be reached by
cutting deeply into the flap, and a slice of it served always

with the veal. a

A LOIN OF VEAL.

This may be carved at choice quite across through the thick
part of the flesh, or in slices taken in the direction of the bones.
A slice of the kidney, and of the fat which surrounds it, should
accompany the veal.

~ No. 11. A BREAST OF VEAL.

The brisket or gristles* of this joint must first be entirely
separated from the rib-bones by pressing the knife quite through
it in the line between a and 0b; this part may then be divided as
shown by the letters ccc ddd, and the long bones or ribs may
easily be separated in the direction e f. The taste of those who
are served should be consulted as to the part of the joint which
is preferred. ‘The sweetbread is commonly sent to table with a
roast breast of veal, and laid upon it: a portion of it should be
served with every plate of the breast.

No. 12. A TONGUE.

This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best
part, shown by the letters a 6. The fat of the root, when it is
liked, must be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the ~
direction ¢ d.

No. 13. A CALF’s HEAD.
An entire calf’s head, served in its natural form, recalls too

* The tendons are literally the small white gristles themselves, which are found
under the flesh in this part of the joint. When freed from the bone attached to
them, they may be dressed in a variety of ways, and are extremely good; but
they require long stewing, four hours or more, to render them perfectly tender,
even when each tendon is divided into three or four slices. We regret having
been compelled to omit our receipts for them, as well as for many other small
light dishes of the kind. The upper flesh must be laid back from the tendons
before they are taken from the breast, not left adhering to them. They are very
good simply stewed in white gravy, and served with green peas, @ la Frangaise, in
the centre. The breast entirely boned, forced, and rolled, makes a handsome
dish, either roasted or stewed.

xlii CARVING»

forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has be-
longed not to be very uninviting. Even when the half of one
only is sent to table, something of the same aspect remains, and.
as it is in every way improved, and rendered most easy to carve
when boned* and rolled, we would recommend its being so pre-.-
pared whenever it can be done without difficulty. Our engray-
EE ing does not give a very flattering
,, representation of it in that form, but
/, having been dressed with the skin on,
j) t was not quite so easily brought into
“handsome shape asif it had been freed.
from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally
retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is
carved across the cheek, in the line from ato 6; the throat
sweetbread, which is regarded as a delicacy, lies in the direction
indicated by the letters cd. The flesh of the eye is another
favourite morsel, which must be detached from the head by
passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole,
in the circle marked e e.

No. 14, A HAM.

Strict economists sometimes commence the carving of a ham
at the knuckle, and so gradually reach the choicer portion of it;
but this method is not at all to be recommended. It should be
cut at once through the thick part of the flesh, quite down to
the bone, in the line a 8, and sliced very thin and evenly, with-
out separating the fat from the lean. Of the manner in which
the ham No. 14 is decorated, we can only inform the reader
here, that a portion of the rind is left on at the knuckle in a
semi-circle, and then trimmed into scollops or points at plea-
sure; and that the ornamental part of the top is formed from
the fat, which is pared away from the thick end and the edges.

* this will be more easily accomplished by an inexperienced cook after the head
has been boiled. for half an hour and then allowed .to cool; but it should not be
left till cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing. After the bones are re+
moved, it should be laid on a clean cloth, and the inside sprinkled over or rubbed
with a little salt, mace, and cayenne, well mixed together; the tongue may be laid
upon, and rolled up in it. It must be secured, first with a skewer, and then bound
tightly round with tape. It should be boiled or stewed extremely tender; and ig
excellent when just covered with good stock, and simmered for a couple of hours,
or when strong broth is substituted for this, and the bones are added to it. The
head may be glazed, and served with rich brown gravy, or with the ordinary
sauces if prepared; and it may be eaten cold, with Oxford brawn sauce, which is
compounded of brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt, mixed to the taste, with
the addition of oil when it is liked.

CARVING. 'f xliii

A paper ruffle, as will be seen, is wrapped round the bone of the
knuckle. .

No. 15. A PHEASANT. ;

This bird is still commonly sent to table with the head on, but
it is a barbarous custom which, it is hoped, may soon be alto-
gether superseded by one of better taste. The breast is by far ,.
the finest part of a pheasant, and it is carved in slices from
pinion to pinion in the lines a a 6 b; the legs may then be taken
off, in the direction ¢ d. The bird, when it is preferred so, may
be entirely dismembered by the directions for a fowl, No. 16.
Black and moor-game are trussed and served like pheasants.
The breasts of both are very fine eating, and the thigh of the

black-cock is highly esteemed.

No. 16. A BOILED FOWL.

The boiled fowl of plate 6 is represented as garnished with
branches of parsley, which is an error, as they would be appro-
Sie to it only if it were cold, and it is seldom served so,

eing considered insipid. Small tufts of cauliflower would
have been in better keeping with it, as the bird is supposed
to be dished for the dinner-table. Unless it be for large family
parties, fowls are seldom carved there entirely into joints ;
but when it is wished to divide them so, the fork should
be fixed firmly in the centre of the breast, and the leg, being
first disengaged from the skin, may be taken off with the wing
in the line a 6; or, the wing being previously removed, by
carving it down the line to 6, and there separating it from the
neck-bone, the leg may be released from the skin, and easily_
taken off, by cutting round it from a to ¢, and then turning it
with the fork, back from the body, when the joint will readily
be perceived.

After the leg and wing on the other side have been taken
off in the same manner, the merrythought must follow. To
remove this, the knife must be drawn through the
flesh in the the line d e, and then turned towards 477.
the neck quite under the merrythought,- whichin é
it will so lift from the breast, in this form:— “~ “S$

The neck-bones—which lie close under the upper
part of the wings, and are shaped thus —
must next be disengaged from the fowl, by putting \(/
the knife in at the top of the joint, dividing the

xliv CARVING.

long part of the bone from the flesh,
and breaking the short one off by
raising it up, and turning it from the gy
body; the breast, which is shown iy d
here, may then be divided from itWiA
by merely cutting through the tender
ribs on either side. |
It is seldom that further disjointing than this is required at
table ; but when it is necessary to cut up the entire tow, the
remainder of it must be laid with the —OHOHUDH ==
back uppermost, and to take off the &
side-bones, which are of this shape—
the point of the knife must be pressed <<
through the back-bone, near the top, about half an inch from
the centre, and brought down towards the end of the back, quite
through the bone, then turned in the opposite direction, when
the joints will separate without difficulty. All which then
remains to be done is, to lay the edge of the knife across the
middle of the only two undivided bones, and then with the
fork to raise the small end of the fowl, which will part them
immediately : to carve a boiled fowl or chicken in a more modern
manner, see the directions which follow. The breast, wings, and
merrythought, are the most delicate parts of a fowl.

No. 17. A ROAST FOWL.

It is not usual to carve fowls entirely at table in the manner
described above. The wings, and any other joints are taken off
only as they are required. ‘The breast of a very large fowl may
be carved in slices like that of a turkey; or the whole of that
of a small one may be taken off with the wings, as shown by
the line ab. As the liver is a delicacy, the handsomer mode
of serving these last is to remove the gizzard, which is seldom

eaten, then to divide the liver, and to send an equal portion of it
with each wing. The whole ofa roast fowl may be carved by
the directions we have already given for No. 16.

No. 18. A PARTRIDGE.

‘When partridges are served to ladies only, or in parties where
they are present, it is now customary to take off the heads, to
truss the legs short, and to make them appear (in poulterer’s

hrase) all breast. For gentlemen’s dinners, the heads may be
Tet on or not at choice. The most ready mode of carving a par-
tridge is to press back the legs, then to fix the fork firmly in the

no}
*

CARVING. . xiv

inside of the back, and by passing the blade of the knife flat.
under the lower part of the breast, to raise it, with the wings,
entire from the body, from which it easily separates. The breast
may then be divided in the middle, as shown by the line from
a to 6 in the engraving here. Thisis_ , Ay t
by far the best and handsomest manner D
of carving a partridge, but when the 4
supply of game at table is small, and it
is necessary to serve three persons from ~~ th

the choicer parts of one bird, a not very large wing should be
taken off with the leg on either side, in the line from a to 6 in
No. 13, and sufficient of the breast will still remain to send to
a third eater. The high game-flavour of the back of a par-
tridge, as well as that of various other birds,* is greatly relished

SS WSS, SA)

-by many sportsmen.

No. 19. A woopcock.

cocks or snipes for table is this: the (=yaxc™
trussing of the legs is, however, better Yj
shown at Nos. 19 and 21 of Plate 6.

No. 20. A PIGEON.

The breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same
way as those of a partridge (see No. 18); or the bird may be

_ carved entirely through in the line a 6. For the second course,

pigeons should be dished upon water-cresses.f

* A great man of the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as “the most
pungent, palate-piercing, wild, bitter-smveet.”

+ We wish to rectify here an error which has escaped correction in the body of
the work. Pigeons have no gall,

xl vi ! CARVING.

No. 21. A SNIPE.

This bird is trussed, roasted, and served exactly like a wood-
cock, It is not of asize to require any carving, beyond dividing
in two, if at all.

No. 22. A GOOSsE.

~ The skin below the breast, called the apron, must first be cut

off in a circular direction as indicated by the letters a a a, when

a glass of port-wine or of claret, ready mixed with a teaspoonful
of mustard, may be poured into the body or not, at choice.

Some of the stuffing should then be drawn out with a spoon,

and the neck of the goose, which ought to be to the right and

not to the left hand, as here, being turned a little towards the
carver, the flesh of the breast should be sliced in the lines from
bb btoc cc, on either side of the bone. The wings may then
be taken off like those of any other bird, and then the legs,
which, in the engraving, No. 22, are trussed so completely

under the apron as to render their outline scarcely distinguish-
able. Graceful and well-skilled carvers never turn birds on
their sides to remove any of the joints, but those of a goose,
unless it be very young, are sometimes severed from it with
difficulty ; and the common directions for assisting the process
in that case are, to turn it on its side, and with the fork to press
down the small end of the leg ; then to pass the knife quite under
it from the top down to the joint, when the leg should be turned
back from the bird with the fork, while the thigh-bone is
loosened from its socket with the knife. The end of the pinion
marked d is then held down in the same manner, to facilitate
the separation of the bones at e, from which point the knife is
drawn under the wing, which it takes off. The merrythought
of a goose is small, and, to remove it, the knife must first be

turned a little from the neck, after the flesh has been cut
through, and then passed. under it, back towards the neck.

For the remainder of the carving, the directions for that of a

fowl will suffice.

DUCKSe

Tame ducks are served with the feet (which areliked by many
people) left upon them and trussed up over the backs. If
large they may be carved like a goose, but when very young —
may be disjointed like chickens; the only material differerice
between them being the position of the thigh-joints, which lie
much further towards the back-bone than those of a fowl.

CARVING. xivii

No. 23. A WILD DUCK. :

The breasts of wild-fowl are the only parts of them held in
much estimation, and these are carved in slices from the legs to
the neck. The legs and pinions may, if required, be taken off
exactly like those of a pheasant.

No. 24. A TURKEY.

The carving of a turkey commences by taking slices off the
breast, from the letters b 6 quite through the forcemeat, which
lies under the letter a, to cc: the greater part of the flesh of
the wings is thus taken off likewise. When the bird is boned
and filled with sausage or other forcemeat, the breast 1s carved
entirely across in the direction de, nearly,or quite down to the
back, which it is better not altogether to divide at first, as the
appearance of the turkey is not then so good. When it has
been prepared in the ordinary manner, after the breast has been
disposed of, the pinions and the legs may be taken off, the first
in the line from f'to g, and the latter by passing the knife under
it at h, and bringing it down to the joint at 77 where it must be
taken off in the line shown. The whole of the joints being in
form exactly like those of a fowl may be separated in the same
manner. ‘Lhe gizzard is more commonly eaten broiled after
having been scored, and very highly seasoned with cayenne ©
and with a sufficiency of salt, than in any other way. A slice
or portion of the liver should be served with the white flesh of
the turkey as far as possible.

No. 25. A HARE.

A hare should be placed with its head to the left of the carver,
therefore the’ engraving No. 25 shows it turned in the wrong
direction. It is so very great an improvement to take out the
back-bone before a hare is roasted, that we would recommend it
to be done wherever it can be so without difficulty : it may then
be carved in the line a 6 quite through, or only partially so at
choice: When the bone remains in, slices may be taken down
the whole length of the back from ¢ ¢ to dd; the legs, which,
next to the back, are considered the best eating, may then be
taken off in the direction e f, and the flesh divided from or
served upon them, after the small bones have been parted from
the thighs. The shoulders, which are not generally much
esteemed, though sometimes liked by sportsmen, may next be ©
taken off by passing the knife at the letters g A between the

xlviil CARVINCe |

joint and the body. When a hare is young the back is some=
times divided at the joints into three or four parts, after being
freed from the ribs and under-skin.

No. 27. A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

This is usually stewed, or rather braised sufficiently tender to
be divided with a spoon, and requires no carving ; but the fat —
(or udder-part of the fillet) attached to it, marked a a a, which
is sometimes, but not invariably served with it now, may be
carved in even slices. ‘The larding differs somewhat from that
which we have described, but the mode shown here allows the
fricandeau to be glazed with more facility.

The engraving of the entrée No. 26 is intended merely to show
the manner of dishing the cutlets. They may be of mutton,
lamb, veal, or pork ; and the centre may be filled with the sauce
or stewed vegetable appropriate to either ; as soubise, purée of
asparagus, of mushrooms, or of tomatas ; or green peas a@ la
Frangatse, stewed cucumbers, or aught else that is suited to the
kind of meat which is served. .

SADDLE . OF. MUTTON,

HAUNCH OF -VEWLS ON?. ‘: gh ol

SIRLOZN. OF BEEF,

HAdlarad, sc

QUARTER OF LAMB.

SHOULDER OF

MUTTON.

Plate 3,

“

“Ye

H Adtard

L—_.

Plate 4.

LO.

A Adlard, sc,

SUCKING PIG,
Ll

Bi Puls I. OFF VE Ad

ae
PIR Ge

Ore ON G UE 5

CALF Ss

EAS

HAM.

Sind .
Plate 6.
ie
we
- .
rm

18 L9
PHEASANT.

PARTRIDGE. , WOODCOCK,

BOLLED FOWL.

Pei BOW ;

ROAST FOWL,

s E BAdtarit., sc

GIO) Ss: 5

WiLD

Plate 6.

ENTREE OF CUTLETS. a

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL

~ MODERN COOKERY.

CHAPTER L
SOUPS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

Tue art of preparing good, wholesome, palatable soups, without
great expense, which is so well understood in France, and in
other countries where they form part of the daily food of all
classes of the people, has hitherto been very much neglected in
England ; it is one, therefore, te which we would particularly
direct the attention of the cock, who will find, we think, on a
careful perusal of the present chapter, that it presents no diffi-
culties which a common degree of care and skill will not easily
overcome. ‘The reader, who may be desirous to excel in it,
should study the instructions given under the article Bouillon,
where the principles of this branch of cookery are fully ex-

» plained.

The spices and other condiments used to give flavour to soups
and gravies should be so nicely proportioned that none predo-
minate nor overpower the rest; and this delicate blending of
savours is perhaps the most difficult part of a cook’s task : it is
an art, moreover, not easily acquired, except by long experience,
unless great attention be combined with some natural refine-
ment of the palate.

A zealous servant will take all possible pains on her first
entrance into a family, to ascertain the particular tastes of the
individuals she serves; and will be guided entirely by them in
the preparation of her dishes, however much they may be
opposed to her own ideas, or to her previous practice.

Exceeding cleanliness, both in her personal habits and appear- ~

ance, and in every department of her work, is so essential in a

- cook, that no degree of skill, nor any other good qualities which

she may possess, can ever atone for the want of it.. The very

idea of a dirty cook is so revolting, that few people will be
B

+s*

2 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I.

induced to tolerate the reality ; and we would therefore most
strongly urge all* employed in the culinary department of a
household, who may be anxious for their own success in life, or
solicitous to obtain the respectand approbation of their employers,
to strive to the utmost against any tendency to slovenliness of
which they may be conscious, or which may be pointed out to
them by others.

Modern Copper Stock-Pot,

A FEW DIRECTIONS TO THE COOK.

In whatever vessel soup is boiled, see that it be perfectly
clean, and let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally
so. Wash the meat, and prepare the vegetables with great
nicety before they are laid into it; and be careful to keep it
always closely shut when it is on the fire. Never, on any
account, set the soup by in it, but strain it off at once into a
clean pan, and fill the stock-pot immediately with water: pur-
sue the same plan with all stewpans and saucepans directly they
are emptied.

Skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil, or it
can never afterwards be rendered clear; throw in some salt,
which will assist to bring the scum to the surface, and when it
has all been taken off, add the herbs and vegetables; for if not
long stewed in the soup, their flavour will prevail too strongly.
Remember, that the trimmings, and especially the bones of
fresh meat, the necks of poultry, the liquor in which a joint
has been boiled, and the shank-bones of mutton, are all excel-
lent additions to the stock-pot, and should be carefully reserved

for it. |

* An active, cleanly, and attentive kitchen-maid will generally become an
admirable cook.

CHAP. J. | SOUPS. 3

Let the soup heat gradually over a moderate fire, and after
it has been well skimmed, draw it to the side of the stove and
keep it semmering softly, but without ceasing, until it is done;
for on this, as will hereafter be shown, its excellence principally
depends. Every good cook understands perfectly the difference
produced by the fast boiling, or the gentle stewing of soups and
gravies, and will adhere strictly to the latter method.

Pour boiling water, in small quantities at first, to the meat
and vegetables of which the soup is to be made when they have
_been fried or browned; but otherwise, add cold water to the
meat.

Unless precise orders to the contrary have been given, onions,
eschalots, and garlic, should be used for seasoning with great
moderation always; fur not only are they very offensive to
many eaters, but to persons of delicate habit, their effects are
sometimes extremely prejudicial; and it is only in coarse
cookery that their flavour is allowed ever strongly to prevail.

A small proportion of sugar, about an ounce to the gallon, will
very much improve the flavour of gravy-stock, and of all rich
brown soups; it may be added also to some others with advan-
tage ; and for this, directions will be given in the proper places.

Two ounces of salt may be allowed for each gallon of soup or
broth in which large quantities of vegetables are stewed ; but
an ounce and a half will be sufficient for such as contain few or
none ; it is always easy to add more if needful, but oversalting
in the first instance is a fault for which there is no remedy but
that of increasing the proportions of all the other ingredients,
and stewing the whole afresh, which occasions needless trouble
and expense, even when time will admit of its being done.

As no particle of fat should be seen floating on your soups
when they are sent to table, it is desirable that the stock should
be made the day before it is wanted, that it may become quite
cold, when the fat may be entirely cleared off without difficulty.

When cayenne pepper is not mixed with rice-flour, or with
any other thickening, grind it down with the back of a spoon,
and stir a little liquid to it before it is thrown into the stewpan,
as it is apt to remain in lumps, and to occasion great irritation
of the throat when swallowed so.

Serve, not only soups and sauces, but all your dishes as hot
as possible.

TO THICKEN SOUPS.

Except for white soups, to which arrow-root is, we think,
more appropriate, we prefer, to all other ingredients generally

4 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. 1

used for this purpose, the finest and freshest rice-flour, which
after being passed through a lawn-sieve, should be thoroughly
blended with the salt, pounded spices, catsup, or wine, required
to finish the flavouring of the soup. Sufficient liquid should
be added to it very gradually to render it of the consistency of
batter, and it should also be perfectly smooth ; to keep it so, it
should be moistened sparingly at first, and beaten with the bagk
of a spoon until every lump has disappeared. The soup should
boil quickly when the thickening is stirred into it, and be
simmered for ten minutes afterwards. From an ounce and a
half to two ounces of rice-flour will thicken sufficiently a quart
of soup.

ropes of this, arrow-root or the condiment known by the
name of tous les mots, which greatly resembles it, or potato-
flour, or the French thickening called rowx (see page 96) may
be used in the following proportions :—Two and a half ounces
of either of the first three, to four pints and a half of soup; to
be mixed gradually with a little cold stock or water, stirred into
the boiling soup, and simmered for a minute.

Six ounces of flour with seven of butter,* will be required to
thicken a tureen of soup; as much as half a pound is sometimes
used ; these must be added by degrees, and carefully stirred
round in the soup until smoothly blended with it, or they will
remain in lumps. : :

All the ingredients used for soups should be fresh, and of
good quality, particularly Italian pastes of every kind (macca-
roni, vermicelli, &c.), as they contract, by long keeping, a
peculiarly unpleasant, musty flavour.

Onions, freed from the outer skin, dried gradually to a deep
brown, in a slow oven, and flattened like Norfolk biffins, will
keep for almost any length of time, and are extremely useful
for heightening the colour and flavour of broths and gravies.t

TO FRY BREAD TO SERVE WITH SOUP.

Cut some slices a quarter-inch thick, from a stale loaf; pare
off the crust, and divide the bread into dice, or cut it with a
deep paste-cutter into any other form. For half a pound of
bread put two ounces of the best butter into a frying-pan, and
when it is quite melted, add the bread; keep it turned, over a

* We would recommend any other thickening in preference to this unwhcle-
some mixture. :

+ The fourth part of one of these dried onions (des ognons britlés), of moderate
size, is sufficient for a tureen of soup. They are sold very commonly in France,
and may he procured, we should suppose, without difficulty in London, at the
foreign warehouses.

CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 5

gentle fire, until it is equally coloured to a very pale brown,
then drain it from the butter, and dry it on a soft cloth, or a
sheet of paper placed before a clear fire, upon a dish, or on
a sieve reversed.

SIPPETS A LA REINE.

. Having cut the bread as for common sippets, spread it on a
dish, and pour over it a few spoonsful of thin cream, or of good
“milk; let it soak for an hour, then fry it in fresh butter of a
delicate brown, drain, and serve the sippets hot.

TO MAKE NOUILLES ;
(An elegant substitute for Vermicellt.)

Wet, with the yolks of four eggs, as much fine, dry, sifted
flour as will make them into a firm but very smooth paste.
Roll it out as thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an
inch and a quarter in width. Dust them lightly with flour, and
place four of them one upon the other. Cut them obliquely in
the finest possible strips; separate them with the point of a
knife, and spread them on writing paper, so that they may dry
a little before they are used. Drop them gradually into the
boiling soup, and in ten minutes they will be done.

Various other forms may be given to this paste at will. It
may be divided into a sort of riband maccaroni; or stamped
with small confectionary cutters into different shapes.

VEGETABLE VERMICELLI.
(Vegetables cut very fine for Soups.)

Cut the carrots into inch-lengths, then pare them round and
round in ribbons of equal thickness, till the inside is reached ;
next cut these ribands into straws, or very small strips; celery
is prepared in the same way, and turnips also are first pared into
ribands, then sliced into strips: these last require less boiling
than the carrots, and attention must be paid to this, for if
broken, the whole would have a bad appearance in soup. The
safer plan is to boil each vegetable separately, till tolerably .
tender, in a little pale broth (in water if this be not at hand), to
drain them well, and put them into the soup, which should be
clear, only a few minutes before it is dished. For cutting them
small, in-other forms, the proper instruments will be found at
the ironmonger’s.

6 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap. I.

BOUILLON.
(The Common Soup of France ; cheap, and very wholesome.)

This soup, or broth, as we should perhaps designate it in
England, is made once or twice in the week, in every family of
respectability in France; and by
the poorer classes as often as their
means will enable them to substi-
tute it for the vegetable or mazgre
soups, on which they are more
commonly obliged to subsist. It
is served usually on the first day,
==— with slices of untoasted bread

ee SS IES,

j= soaked in it; on the second, it is
Cs generally varied with vermicelli,
French Pot-au-Few ; or, Earthen rice, or semoulina. The ingre-
Soup Pot. dients are, of course, often other-

wise proportioned than as we have given them, and more or less
meat is allowed, according to the taste or circumstances of the
persons for whom the bouillon is prepared; but the process of
making it is always the same, and is thus described (rather
learnedly) by one of the most skilful cooks in Europe: “The
stock-pot of the French artisan,’ says Monsieur Caréme,
“supplies his principal nourishment ; and it is thus managed by
his wife, who, without the slightest knowledge of chemistry,
conducts the process in a truly scientific manner. She first lays
the meat into her earthen stock-pot, and pours cold water to it
in the proportion of about two quarts to three pounds of the
beef;* she then places it by the side of the fire, where it
slowly becomes hot; and as it does so, the heat enlarges the
fibre of the meat, dissolves the gelatinous substances which it
contains, allows the albumen (or the muscular part which
produces the scum) to disengage itself, and rise to the surface,
and the osmazomE (which is the most savoury part of the meat)
to be diffused through the broth. Thus, from the simple
circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner, a relishing and
nutritious soup will be obtained, and a dish of tender and
palatable meat ; but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick
fire, the albumen will coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the
water from penetrating it, and the osmazome from disengaging

* This is a large proportion of meat for the family of a French artisan ; a
pound to the quart would be nearer the reality; but it is not the refuse-meat
which would be purchased by persons of the same rank in England for making

broth.

&
CHAP. I. | | SOUPS. 2

itself; the result will be a broth without flavour or goodness,
and a tough, dry bit of meat.”

It must be observed in addition, that as the meat of which the
bouallon is made, is almost invariably sent to table, a part of the
rump, the mouse-buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef,
should be selected for it ; and the simmering should be continued
only until this is perfectly tender. When the object is simply
to make good, pure-flavoured beef broth, part of the shin, or leg,
with a pound or two of the neck, will best answer the purpose.
When the boulli (that is to say, the beef which is boiled in the
soup), is to be served, bind it intoa good shape, add to it a calf’s
foot, if easily procurable, as this much improves the quality of
the bouillon, pour cold water to it in the proportion mentioned
above, and proceed, as Monsieur Caréme directs, to heat the soup
slowly by the side of the fire; remove carefully the head of
scum, which will gather on the surface, before the boiling com-
mences, and continue the skimming at intervals, for about
twenty minutes longer, pouring in once or twice a little cold
water. Next, add salt in the proportion of two ounces to the’
gallon ; this will cause a little more scum to rise,—clear it quite
off, and throw in three or four turnips, as many carrots, half a
head of celery, four or five young leeks, an onion stuck with six
or eight cloves, a large half-teaspoonful of pepper-corns, and a.
bunch of savoury herbs. Let the whole stew verry softly,
without ceasing, from four hours and a half to six hours,
according to the quantity: the beef in that time will be
extremely tender, but not overdone. It will be excellent eating,
if properly managed, and might often, we think, be substituted
with great advantage for the hard, half-boiled, salted beef so -
often seen at an English table. It should be served with a
couple of cabbages, which have been first boiled in the usual
way, then pressed very dry, and stewed for about ten minutes
in a little of the broth, and seasoned with pepper and salt. The
other vegetables from the bouillon may be laid round it or not,
at choice. The soup, if served on the same day, must be
strained, well cleared from fat, and sent to table with fried or
toasted bread, unless the Continental mode of putting slices or
crusts of untoasted bread into the tureen, and soaking them for
ten minutes in a ladleful or two of the bouillon, be, from custom,
preferred.

Beef, 8 to 9 Ibs.; water, 6 quarts; salt, 3 ozs. (more if
needed) ; carrots, 4 to 6; turnips, 4 or 5; celery, one small
head ; leeks, 4 to 6; one onion, stuck with 6 cloves; pepper-

ai
>» 3
8 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. 1.

corns, one small teaspoonful ; large bunch of savoury herbs:
(calf’s foot if convenient) to semmer 5 to 6 hours.

Obs. 1.—This broth forms in France the foundation of all
richer soups and gravies. Poured on fresh meat (a portion of
which should be veal) instead of water, it makes at once an
excellent consommée, or strong jellied stock. If properly man-
aged, it is very clear and pale; and with an additional weight
of beef, and some spoonsful of glaze, may easily be converted
into an amber-coloured gravy-soup, suited to modern taste. ~

Obs. 2.--It is a common practice abroad to boil poultry,
pigeons, and even game, in the pot-au-feu, or soup-pot. They
should be properly trussed, stewed in the broth just long enough
to render them tender, and served immediately, when ready,
with a good sauce. A small ham, if well soaked, washed ex-
ceedingly clean, and freed entirely from any rusty, or blackened
parts, laid with the beef when the water is first added to it, and
boiled from three hours and a half to four hours, in the
bouillon, is very superior in flavour to those cooked in water
only, and infinitely improves the soup, which cannot, however,
so well be‘eaten until the following day, when all the fat can
easily be taken from it: it would, of course, require no salt.

CLEAR, PALE, GRAVY-SOUP OR STOCK.

Rub a deep stewpan or soup-pot with butter, and lay into it
three quarters of a pound of ham freed entirely from fat, skin,
and rust, four pounds of leg or neck of veal, and the same
weight of lean.beef all cut into thick slices; set it over a clear
and rather brisk fire, until the meat is of a fine amber-colour :
it must be often moved, and closely watched, that it may not
stick to the pan, nor burn. When itsis equally browned, lay
the bones upon it, and pour in gradually four quarts of boiling
water. ‘Take off the scum carefully as it rises, and throw in a
pint of cold water. at intervals, to bring it quickly to the
surface. When no more appears, add two ounces of salt, two
onions, two large carrots, two turnips, one head of celery, a
two-ounce faggot. of savoury herbs, a dozen cloves, half a
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, and two large blades of
mace. Let the soup boil gently from five hours and a half, to
six hours and a half; then strain it through a very clean, fine
cloth, laid ina hair sieve. When it is perfectly cold, remove
every particle of fat from the top; and, in taking out the soup,
leave the sediment untouched; heat in a clean pan the quantity
required for table, add salt to it if needed, and a few drops of
Chili or of cayenne vinegar. Harvey's sauce, or very fine

‘ma | i
: : *
CHAP. 1.| _ SOUPS. 9
/ e

mushroom catsup, may be substituted for these. When thus
prepared, the soup is ready to serve: it should be accompanied
by pale sippets of fried bread, or sippets @ la reine. Rice,
maccaroni in lengths or rings, vermicelli, or nouilles, may in
turn be used to vary it; but they must always be boiled apart
till tender, in broth, or water, and well drained before they are
slipped into it. The addition of young vegetables, too, and
especially of asparagus, will convert it into an elegant spring-
soup; but they, likewise, must be separately cooked.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR GRAVY-SOUP.

Instead of browning the meat in its own juices, put it with
the onions and carrots, into a deep stewpan, with a quarter-pint
of bouillon ; set it over a brisk fire at first, and when the broth
is somewhat reduced, let iteboil gently until it has taken a fine
colour and forms a glaze (or jelly) at the botton of the stew-
pan ; then pour to it the proper quantity of water, and finish
the soup by the preceding receipt.*

Obs.—A rich, old-fashioned English brown gravy-soup may
be made with beef only. It should be cut from the bones,
dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried a
clear brown; then stewed for six hours, if the quantity be
large, with a pint of water to each pound of meat, and vege-
tables as above, except onions, of which four moderate-sized ones,
also fried, are to be added to every three quarts of the soup,
which, after it has been strained, and cleared from fat, may be
thickened with six ounces of fresh butter,,worked up very
smoothly with five of flour. In twenty minutes afterwards, a
tablespoonful of the best soy, half}a pint of sherry, and a
little cayenne may be added to the soup, which will then be
ready to serve.

CHEAP, CLEAR GRAVY-Soup-*™ ge: the
The shin or leg of beef, if not large or coarse, will answer

* The juices of meat, drawn out with a small portion of liquid, as directed here,
may easily be reduced to the consistency in which they form what is called
glaze ; for particulars of this, see Chapter III. The best method, though perhaps
not the easiest, of making the clear, amber-coloured stock, is to pour a ladleful
or two of pale, but strong beef-broth to the veal, and to boil it briskly until well
reduced, thrusting a knife, when this is done, into the meat, to let the juices
escape; then to proceed more slowly and cautiously as the liquid approaches the
state in which it would burn. It must be allowed to take a dark amber-colour
only, and the meat must be turned, and often moved in it. When the desired
point is reached, pour in more boiling broth, and let the pan remain off the fire
for a few minutes, to detach and melt the glaze; then shake it wveli round before
the boiling is continued. A certain quantity of deeply coloured glaze, made
apart, and stirred into strong, clear, pale stock, would produce the desired etiect
of this, with much less trouble.

: a
10 . MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, I.

extremely well for this soup, and afford at the same time a
highly economical dish of boiled meat, which will be found
very tender, and very palatable also, if it be served with a
sauce of some piquancy. From about ten pounds of the meat
let the butcher cut evenly off five or six from the thick fleshy
part, and again divide the knuckle, that the whole may lie
compactly in the vessel in which it is to be stewed. Pour in
three quarts of cold water, and when it has been brought slowly
to boil, and been well skimmed, as directed for bowzllon (page
6), throw in an ounce and a half of salt, half a large teaspoonful
of pepper-corns, eight -cloves, two blades of mace, a bunch of
savoury herbs, a couple of small carrots, and the heart of a
root of celery: to these add a mild onion or not, at choice.
When the whole has stewed very softly for four hours, probe
the larger bit of beef, and if quite tender, lift it out for table ;
let the soup be simmered from two to three hours longer, and
then strain it through a fine sieve, into a clean pan. When it
is perfectly cold, clear off every particle of fat ; heat a couple
of quarts, stir in, when it boils, half an ounce of sugar, a small
tablespoonful of good soy, and twice as much of Harvey’s
sauce, or should this not be at hand, of clear and fine mushroom
catsup. If carefully made, the soup will be perfectly trans-
parent and of good colour and flavour. A thick slice of lean
ham will improve it, and a pound or so of the neck of beef
with an additional pint of water, will likewise enrich its quality.
A small quantity of good broth may be made of the fragments
of the whole boiled down with a few fresh vegetables.

Brown caper, or hot horse-radish sauce, or sauce Robert, or
sauce piquante, made with the liquor in which it is boiled, may
be served with the portion of the meat which is sent to table.

VERMICELLI SOUP.
(Potage au Vermicelle.)

Drop very lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of vermicelli,
broken rather small, into three quarts of boiling bouillon, or
clear gravy soup ; let it simmer for half an hour* over a gentle
fire, and stir it often. This is the common French mode of
making vermicelli soup, and we can recommend it as a particu-
larly good one for family use. In England it is customary to
soak, or to blanch the vermicelli, then to drain it well, and te

* When of very fine quality, the vermicelli will usually require less boiling
than this. We have named to the reader, in another part of the volume, Mr. Cob-
bett, 18, Pall Mall, as supplying all the Italian pastes extremely good.

CHAP. 1.] SOUPS, 11

stew it for a shorter time in the soup ; the quantity, also, must
be reduced quite two ounces, to suit modern taste. |
Bouillon, or gravy-soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 6 ozs.; 30
- minutes. Or, soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 4 ozs.; blanched in
boiling water 5 minutes ; stewed in soup 10 to 15 minutes.

SEMOULINA SOUP.
(Soupe a la Sémoule.)

Semoulina is used in the same way as the vermicelli. It
should be dropped very lightly and by degrees into the boiling
soup, which should be stirred all the time it is being added, and
very frequently afterwards ; indeed, it should scarcely be quitted
for a moment until it is ready for table. Skim it carefully, and
let it simmer from twenty to five and twenty minutes. This,
- when the semoulina can be procured good and fresh, is, to our
taste, an excellent

Soup, 3 quarts; semoulina 6 ozs.: nearly, or quite 25
minutes.

MACCARONI. SOUP.

Throw four ounces of fine fresh* mellow maccaroni into a pan
of fast-boiling water, with about an ounce of fresh butter, and a
small onion stuck with three or four cloves.— When it has
swelled to its full size, and become tender, drain it well, and
slip it into a couple of quarts of clear gravy-soup; let it simmer
for a few minutes, when it will be ready for table. Observe,
that the maccaroni should be boiled quite tender; but it should
by no means be allowed to burst, nor to become pulpy. Serve
grated Parmesan cheese with it.

Maccaroni, 4 ozs.; butter, 1 oz.; 1 small onion; 5 cloves:
= hour, or more. In soup, 5 to 10 minutes.

Obs.—The_ maccaroni for soups should always be either
broken into short lengths before it is boiled, or sliced quickly
afterwards into small rings not more than the sixth of an inch
thick, unless the cu¢ maccaroni, which may be purchased at the
Italian warehouses, be used; this requires but ten minutes’
boiling, and should be dropped into the soup in the same way as
vermicelli. Four ounces of it will be sufficient for two quarts of
stock. It may be added to white soup after having been pre-
viously boiled in water or veal-broth, and well drained from it:

* We must here repeat our warning against the use of long-kept maccaroni,
vermicelli, or semoulina; as, when stale, they will render any dish into which
they are introduced quite unfit for table.

+ For White Soups omit the onion.

12 MODERN COOKERY. : [CHAP. I.

it has a rather elegant appearance in clear gravy-soup, - but
should have a boil in water before it is thrown into it.

POTAGE AUX NOUILLES, OR TAILLERINE SOUP.

Make into nouille-paste the yolks of four fresh eggs, and
when ready cut, drop it gradually into five pints of boiling soup ;
keep this gently stirred for ten minutes, skim it well, and serve
it quickly. This is a less common, and a more delicately fla-
voured soup than the vermicelli, provided always that the
nouilles be made with really fresh eggs. The same paste may
be cut into very small diamonds, squares, stars, or any other
form, then left to dry a little, and boiled in the soup until swelled
to its full size, and tender.

Nouille-paste of four eggs; soup, 5 pints: 10 minutes.

SAGO SOUP.

Wash in several waters, and float off the dirt from six ounces
of sago; put it into three quarts of good cold gravy-stock; let
it stew gently from half to three quarters of an hour, and stir it
occasionally, that it may not burn nor stick to the stewpan. A
quarter-ounce more of sago to each pint of liquid, will thicken
it to the consistency of peas-soup. It may be flavoured with
half a wineglassful of Harvey’s sauce, as much cayenne as it may
need, the juice of half a lemon, an ounce of sugar, and two
glasses of sherry; or these may be omitted, and good beef-broth
may be substituted for the gravy-soup, for a simple family
dinner, or for an invalid.

Sago, 6 ozs.; soup, 3 quarts: 30 to 45 minutes.

TAPIOCA SOUP.

This is made in the same manner, and with the same propor-
tions as the preceding soup, but it must be simmered from fifty
to sixty minutes.

RICE SOUP.

In France this soup is served well thickened with the rice,
which is stewed in it for upwards of an hour and a half, and
makes thus, even with the common bouillon of the country, an
excellent winter potage. Pick, and wipe in a dry cloth, eight
ounces of the best rice; add it, in small portions, to four. quarts
of hot soup, of which the boiling should not be checked as it is
thrown in. When a clear soup is wanted, wash the rice, give it
five minutes’ boil in water, drain it well, throw it into as much
boiling stock or well-flavoured broth as will keep it covered till

CHAP. 1. | SOUPS. 13

done, and simmer it very softly until the grains are tender, but
still separate ; drain it, slip it into the soup, and let it remain in
it a few minutes before it is served, but without simmering.
When stewed in the stock, it may be put at once, after
being drained, into the tureen, and the clear gravy-soup may be
poured to it.

An easy English mode of making rice-soup is this: put the
rice into plenty of cold water; when it boils, throw in a small
quantity of salt, let it simmer ten minutes, drain it well, throw
it into the boiling soup, and simmer it gently from ten to
fifteen minutes longer; some rice will be tender in half that
time. An extra quantity of stock must be allowed for the
reducticn of this soup, which is always considerable.

WHITE RICE SOUP.

Throw four ounces of well-washed rice into boiling water,
and in five minutes after pour it into a sieve, drain it well, and
put it into a couple of quarts of good white, boiling stock; let it
stew till tender; season the soup with salt, cayenne, and
pounded mace; stir to it three quarters of a pint of very rich
cream, give it one boil, and serve it quickly.

Rice, 4 ozs.: boiled 5 minutes. Soup, 2 quarts: 2 hour
or more. Seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne ; cream, ¢ pint:
1 minute.

RICE-FLOUR SOUP.

Mix with a little cold broth, eight ounces of fine rice-flour,
and pour it into a couple of quarts of fast-boiling broth
or gravy soup. Add to it mace, and cayenne, with a little
salt if needful. It will require but ten minutes’ boiling.

Soup, 2 quarts; rice-flour, 8 ozs.: 10 minutes.

Obs.—-T wo dessertspoonsful of currie-powder, and the strained
juice of half a moderate-sized lemon will greatly improve this
soup : it may also be converted into a good common white soup,
Gf it be made of veal stock), by the addition of three-quarters
of a pint of thick cream to the rice.

STOCK FOR WHITE SOUP.

Though a knuckle of veal is usually preferred for this stock,
part of the neck will, on an emergency, answer very well.
Whichever joint be chosen, let it be thoroughly washed, once or
twice divided, and laid into a delicately clean soup-pot, or well-
tinned large stout iron saucepan, upon a pound of lean ham,
freed entirely from skin and fat, and cut into thick slices.

14 MODERN COOKERY. [oaar. 1.

Should very rich soup be wished for, pour in a pint only of cold
water for each pound of meat, but otherwise a pint and a half
may be allowed. When the soup has been thoroughly cleared __
from scum, which should be carefully taken off, from the time
of its first’ beginning to boil, throw in an ounce of salt to the
gallon (more can be added afterwards if needed), two mild
onions, a moderate-sized head of celery, two carrots, a small
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, and two blades of mace ; and
let the soup stew very softly from five to six hours, if the
quantity be large: it should simmer until the meat falls from
the bones. The skin of a calf’s head, a calf’s foot, or an old
fowl may always be added to this stock with good effect. Strain
it into a clean deep pan, and keep it in a cool place till wanted
for use.

Lean ham, 1 Ib.; veal, 7 Ibs.; water, 4 to 6 quarts; salt,
13 oz. (more if needed); onions, 2; celery, 1 head ; carrots, 2;
pepper-corns, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 2 blades: 5 to 6 hours.

MUTTON-STOCK FOR SOUPS.

Equal parts of beef and mutton, with the addition of a small
portion of ham, or of very lean bacon, make excellent stock,
especially for winter-soups. ‘The necks of fowls, the bones of
an undressed calf’s head, or of any uncooked joint may be
added to it with advantage. According to the quality of soup
desired, pour from a pint to a pint and a half of cold water to
each pound of meat; and after the liquor has been well skim-
med on its beginning to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt
to the gallon, two small heads of celery, three mild, middling-sized
onions, three well-flavoured turnips, -as many carrots, a faggot
of thyme and parsley, half a teaspoonful of white peppercorns,
twelve cloves, and a large blade of mace. Draw the soup-pot
to the side of the fire, and boil the stock as gently as possible for
about six hours; then strain, and set it by for use. Be particu-
larly careful to clear it entirely from fat before it is prepared for
table. One third of beef or veal, with two of mutton, will
make very good soup; or mutton only will answer the purpose
quite well upon occasion.

Beef, 4 Ibs. ; mutton, 4 Ibs. ; (or, beef or veal from 2 to 3 Ibs. ;
mutton from 5 to 6 Ibs.;) water, 1 to'1} gallon; salt, 13 oz.;
mildturnips, 1 1b. ; onions, 6 ozs.; carrots, 3 lb.; celery, 6 to 8
ozs.; 1 bunch of herbs; peppercorns, 4 teaspoonful; cloves,
12; mace, 1 large blade: 6 hours.

Oés.—Salt should be used sparingly at first for stock in which

CHAP. I.] . SOUPS. 15

any portion of ham is boiled ; allowance should also be made for
its reduction, in case of its being required for gravy.

THE LORD MAYOR'S SOUP.

Wash thoroughly two sets of moderate-sized pigs’ ears and
_ feet, from which the hair has been carefully removed ; add to
them five quarts of cold water, and stew them very gently, with
a faggot of savoury herbs, and one large onion stuck with a
a dozen cloves, for nearly four hours, when the ears may be
lifted out ; stew the feet for another hour, then take them up,
strain the soup, and set it in a cool place that it may become
cold enough for the fat to be quite cleared from it. Next, bone
the ears and feet, cut the flesh down into dice, throw a clean
folded cloth over it, and leave it so until the soup requires to be
prepared for table; then strew upon it two tablespoonsful of
savoury herbs minced small, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a
little white pepper, and some salt. Put into a large saucepan
half a pound of good butter, and when it begins to simmer
thicken it gradually with as much flour as it will absorb; keep
these stirred over a very gentle fire for ten minutes or more, but
do not allow them to take the slightest colour ; pour the soup to’
them by degrees, letting it boil up after each portion is added; put
in the meat, and half a pint of sherry, simmer the whole from
three to five minutes ; dish the soup, and slip into it two or three
dozens of delicately fried forcemeat-balls. (See Chapter VI.)

Pigs’ feet, 8; ears, 4; water, 5 quarts ; bunch savoury herbs ;
1 large onion; cloves, 12: 33 to 4 hours, feet, 1 hour more.
Butter, 3 lb; flour, 6 ozs.*: 10 to 12 minutes. Minced herbs,
2 tablespoonsful; cayenne and common pepper, each 3} salt-
spoonful ; salt, } teaspoonful or more; sherry, 4 pint: 3 to 5
minutes. Forcemeat-balls, 2 to 3 dozens.

Obs.— We have given this receipt with the slightest possible
variation from the original, which we derived from a neighbour-
hood where the soup made -by it was extremely popular. We
have better adapted it to our own taste by the following altera-
tions.

THE LORD MAYOR'S SOUP.
(Author’s Receipt.)
We prefer to have'this soup made, in part, the evening before
it is wanted, Add the same proportion of water to the ears and

3 *,
* The safer plan for an inexperienced cook, is to weigh the flour, and then te
sprinkle it from a dredging-box into the butter.

16. MODERN COOKERY. [owar. 1,

feet as in the preceding directions; skim it thoroughly when it
first boils, and throw in a tablespoonful of salt, two onions of
moderate size, a small head of celery, a bunch of herbs, two
whole carrots, a small teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and a
blade of mace. Stew these softly until the ears and feet are
pereeeuly tender, and after they are lifted out, let the ligour be ©
ept just simmering only, while they are being boned, that it
may not be too much reduced. Put the bones back into it, and
stew them as gently as possible for an hour; then strain the
soup into a clean pan, and set it by till the morrow in a cool
place. ‘The flesh should be cut into dice while it is still warm,
and covered with the cloth before it becomes quite cold. To
prepare the soup for table, clear the stock from fat and sediment,
put it into a very clean stewpan, or deep, well-tinned saucepan,
and stir to it, when it boils, six ounces of the finest rice-flour
smoothly mixed with a quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne, three
times as much of mace, and salt, the strained juice of a lemon,
three tablespoonsful of Harvey’s sauce, and half a pint of good
sherry or Madeira. Simmer the whole for six or eight minutes,
add more salt if needful, stir the soup often, and skim it tho-
roughly ; put in the meat, and herbs, and after they have boiled
gently for five minutes, dish the soup, add forcemeat and egg-
balls or not, at pleasure, and send it to table quickly.

Moderate-sized pigs’ feet, 8 ; ears, 4; water, 5 quarts; salt, 1
tablespoonful ; onions, 2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 2; bunch of
herbs; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful; mace, 1 blade: 34
to 4} hours. Stock, 5 pints; rice-flour, 6 ozs.; cayenne, 4+
teaspoonful; mace and salt, each $ of a teaspoonful; juice of 1
lemon; Harvey’s sauce, 3 tablespoonsful; sherry or Madeira,
4 pint: 6 to 8 minutes. Savoury herbs, 2 tablespoonsful: 5
minutes.

Obs. 1.—Should the quantity of stock exceed five pints, an
additional ounce or more of rice must be used, and the
flavouring be altogether increased in proportion. Of the
minced herbs, two-thirds should be parsley, and the remainder
equal parts of lemon thyme and winter savoury, unless sweet
basil should be at hand, when a teaspoonful of it should be
substituted for half of the parsley. ‘I’o some tastes a seasoning
of sage would be acceptable; and a slice or two of lean ham
will much improve the flavour of the soup. |

Obs. 2.—Both this soup, and the preceding one, may be
rendered very rich by substituting strong Coudlon (see page 6)
or good veal broth for water, in making them.

cHAP. I.| SOUPS. 1

COCOA-NUT SOUP.

Pare the dark rind from a very fresh cocoa-nut, and grate it
fine on an exceedingly clean, bright grater; weigh it, and allow
two ounces for each quart of soup. Simmer it gently for one
hour in the stock, which should then be strained and thickened
for table. ‘This nut imparts a remarkably fine flavour to any
kind of soup or broth, and it is considerably heightened by
browning it with a morsel of fresh butter to a fine amber-
colour, in a thick stewpan or saucepan, over a slow fire, before
the soup is poured to it. It must be stirred constantly, and the
greatest care should be taken that no single particle be burned.
An ounce of butter will be sufficient for a quarter-pound of the
nut, which should be added as soon as the butter is just
dissolved.

Veal stock, gravy-soup, or broth, 5 pints; grated cocoa-nut,
5 ozs.: 1 hour. Flour of rice, 5 ozs.; mace, 3 teaspoonful;
little cayenne and salt ; mixed with } pint cream, if at hand:
10 minutes.

For brown soup: butter, 14 0z.; cocoa-nut, 5 ozs.: 5 to 10
minutes. Gravy-soup, or good beef-broth, 5 pints: 1 hour.
Rice flour, 5 ozs.; soy and lemon-juice, each 1 tablespoonful ;
sugar pounded fine, 1 oz. ; cayenne, } teaspoonful; sherry, 2
glasses.
~ Obs.—When either cream or wine is objected to for these
soups, a half-pint of the stock should be reserved to mix the
thickening with. : |

* CHESTNUT SOUP.

Strip the outer rind from some fine, sound Spanish chestnuts,
throw them into a large pan of warm water, and as soon as it
becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it, take it from the
fire, lift out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and throw them
into cold water as they are done; wipe, and weigh them; take
three quarters of a pound for each quart of soup, cover them
with good gravy-stock, and stew them gently for upwards of
three quarters of an hour, or until they break when touched
with a fork; drain, and pound them smoothly, or bruise them
to a mash with a strong spoon, and press them through a fine
sieve reversed; mix with them by slow degrees, the proper
quantity of stock, add sufficient mace, cayenne, and salt, to
season the soup, and stir it often until it boils. Three quarters
of a pint of rich cream will greatly improve it. The stock in

18 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I.

which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when
its sweetness is not objected to; or it may in part be added to it.
Chestnuts, 13 lb.: stewed from 2 to 1 hour. Soup, 2
quarts; seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne: 1 to 3 minutes.
Cream, ? pint (when used).

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, OR PALESTINE SOUP,

Wash and pare quickly some freshly-dug artichokes, and to
preserve their colour, throw them into spring-water as they are
done, but do not let them remain in it after all are ready. Boil
three pounds of them in water for ten minutes; lift them out,
and slice them into three pints of boiling stock; when they have
stewed gently in this from fifteen to twenty minutes, press them,
with the soup, through a fine sieve, and put the whole into a
clean saucepan with a pint and a half more of stock ; add suffi-
cient salt and cayenne to season it, skim it well, and after it has
simmered two or three minutes, stir it to a pint of rich boiling
cream. Serve it immediately. ¢*

Artichokes, 3 lbs. boiled in water: 10 minutes. Veal stock,
3 pints: 15 to 20 minutes. Additional stock, 14 pint; little
cayenne and salt: 2 to 3 minutes. Boiling cream, | pint.

Obs.—The palest veal stock, as for white soup, should be used
for this; but for a family dinner, or where economy is a consi-
deration, excellent mutton-broth, made the day before, and per-
fectly cleared from fat, will answer very well as a substitute; —
milk, too, may in part take the place of cream, when this last is
scarce: the proportion of artichokes should then be increased a
little.

Vegetable-marrow, when young, makes a superior sdup even
to this, which is a most excellent one. It should be well pared,
trimmed, and sliced into a small quantity of boiling veal stock,
or broth, and when perfectly tender, pressed through a fine
sieve, and mixed with more stock, and some cream. In France,
the marrow is stewed first in butter, with a large mild onion or
two, also sliced; and afterwards in a quart or more of water,

.which is poured gradually to it; it is next passed through a
tammy,* seasoned with pepper and salt, and mixed with a pint
or two of milk, and a little cream.

COMMON CARROT SOUP.

The easiest way of making this soup is to boil some carrots
very tender in water slightly salted; then to pound them

* Derived from the French tamis, which means a sieve or strainer.

CHAP. I. ] | SOUPS. 19

extremely fine, and to mix gradually with them boiling gravy- ,
soup (or bouillon) in the proportion of a quart to twelve ounces ~
of the carrot. The soup should then be passed through a
strainer, seasoned with salt and cayenne, and served very hot,
__ with fried bread in a separate dish. If only the red outsides of

the carrot be used, the colour of the soup will be very bright :
they should be weighed after they are pounded. Turnip soup
may also be made in the same manner.

Soup, 2 quarts; pounded carrot, 1} lb.; salt, cayenne: 5
minutes.

A FINER CARROT SOUP.

Scrape very clean, and cut away any blemishes from some
highly-flavoured red carrots; wash, and wipe them dry. Cut
them in quarter-inch slices. Put into a large stewpan three
ounces of the best butter, and when it is melted, add two pounds
of the sliced carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour with-
out browning; pour to them then four pints and a half of brown
gravy-soup, and when they have simmered from fifty minutes
to an hour, they ought to be sufficiently tender. Press them
through a sieve or strainer with the soup ; add salt, and cayenne
if required ; boil the whole gently for five minutes, take off all
the scum, and serve the soup as hot as possible. Send it to
table with a dish of bread, cut in dice, and fried.

Butter 3 ozs.; carrots 2 lbs.: 1 hour. Soup 43 pints: 50 to
60 minutes. Salt, cayenne: 5 minutes.

Obs.—Three ounces of Scotch, or of pearl barley, soaked for
one night, and stewed slowly the next day for an hour and a
half, ina quart of broth, then mixed with common carrot soup,
will make what is considered, by many persons, an excellent
potage.

A fashionable variety of this soup is also made by diminishing
a little the quantity of carrots, and adding to it three ounces of
rice previously swelled in broth till tender.

COMMON TURNIP SOUP.

Wash and wipe the turnips, pare and weigh them; allow a
pound and a half for every quart of soup. Cut them in slices
about a quarter of an inch thick. Melt four ounces of butter
in a clean stewpan, and put in the turnips before it begins to
boil; stew them gently for three quarters of an hour, taking
care that they shall not brown. Then have the proper quantity
of soup ready boiling, pour it to them, and let them simmer in
it for three quarters of an hour. Pulp the whole through a

20 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, I.

_. coarse sieve or soup-strainer, put it again on the fire, keep it
stirred until it has boiled three minutes, take off the scum, add
salt and peppet, if required, and serve it very hot.
Turnips 3 lbs.; butter 4 ozs.: ? hour. Soup 2 quarts: 2
hour. Last time: 3 minutes. ’ %

‘Pare and slice into three pints of veal or mutton stock, or of
good broth, three pounds of young mild turnips; stew them
gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they can be
reduced quite to pulp; press the whole through a sieve, add to
it another quart of stock, a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and
one lump of sugar; simmer it a minute or two, skim and serve
it. A large white onion, when the flavour is liked, may be
sliced and stewed with the turnips. A little cream improves
much the colour of this soup.

Turnips, 3 Ibs.; soup, 5 pints: 25 to 30 minutes.

A QUICKLY MADE TURNIP SOUP.

POTATO SOUP.

Mash to a smooth paste three pounds of good mealy potatoes,
which have beeh steamed, or boiled very dry; mix with them
by degrees, two quarts of boiling broth, pass the soup through
a strainer, set it again on the fire, add pepper and salt, and let
it boil five minutes. Take off entirely the black scum that will

- rise upon it, and serve it very hot with fried or toasted bread.
Where the flavour is approved, two ounces of onions, minced
and fried a light brown, may be added to the soup, and stewed
in it for ten minutes before it is sent to table. °

Potatoes, 3 lbs.; broth, 2 quarts: 5 minutes. (With onions,
2 ozs.:) 10 minutes.

APPLE SOUP.
(Soupe a la Bourguignon.)

Clear the fat from five pints of good mutton-broth, bowzllon,
or shin of beef stock, and strain it through a fine sieve; add to
it, when it boils, a pound and a half of good pudding apples,
and stew them down in it very softly, to a smooth pulp; press
the whole through a strainer, add a small teaspoonful of pow-
dered ginger, and plenty of pepper, simmer the soup for a couple
of minutes, skim, and serve it very hot, accompanied by a dish
of rice, boiled as for curries.

Broth, 5 pints; apples, 14 lb.: 25 to 40 minutes. Ginger, 1
teaspoonful ; pepper, 4 teaspoonful: 2 minutes.

CHAP. 1.) SOUPS. of

PARSNEP SOUP. *
a

Dissolve, over a gentle fire, four ounces and a half of goo
butter, in a wide stewpan or saucepan, and slice in directly two
ounds of sweet tender parsneps ; let them stew very softly until

“all are tender, then pour in gradually sufficient veal stock, or

good broth to cover them, and boil the whole slowly from twenty
minutes to half an hour; press it with a wooden spoon through
a fine sieve, add as much stock as will make two quarts in all,
season the soup with salt and white pepper, or cayenne, give it
one boil, skim, and serve it very hot. Send pale fried sippets
to table with it.

Butter, 44 ozs.; parsneps, 2 Ibs.: 2 hour, or more. Stock, 1
quart ; 20 to 30 minutes; 1 full quart more of stock ; pepper,
salt: 1 minute.

Obs.—We can particularly recommend this soup to those who
like the peculiar flavour of the vegetable.

ANOTHER PARSNEP SOUP.

Slice into five pints of boiling veal stock or strong colourless
broth, a couple of pounds of parsneps, and stew them as gently as
possible from thirty minutes to an hour ; when they are perfectly
tender, press them through a sieve, strain the soup to them,
season, boil, and serve it very hot. With the addition of cream,
parsnep soup made by this receipt resembles in appearance the
Palestine soup.

Veal stock or broth, 5 pints; parsneps, 2 Ibs.: 30 to 60 mi-
nutes. Salt and cayenne: 2 minutes.

WESTERFIELD WHITE SOUP.

Break the bone of a knuckle of veal in one or two places, and
put it on to stew, with three quarts of cold water to the five
pounds of meat ; when it has been quite cleared from scum, add
to it an ounce and a half of salt, two ounces and a half of onions,
twenty corns of white pepper, and two or three blades of mace,
with a liitie cayenne pepper. When the soup is reduced one
third by slow simmering, strain it off, and set it by till cold;
then free it carefully from the fat and sediment, and heat it
again in a very clean stewpan. Mix with it when it boils, a pint
of thick cream smoothly blended with an ounce of good arrow-
root, two ounces of very fresh vermicelli previously boiled ten-
der in water slightly salted and well-drained from it, and‘ an

22 | MODERN COOKERY. [SHAR I.

_ Ounce and a half of almonds blanched, and cut in strips ;* give
it one minute’s simmer, and serve it immediately, with a French
roll i in the tureen.
_ Veal, 5 Ibs.; water, 3 quarts; salt, 13 0z.; onions, 23 ozs.3;

a a Sd
t

20 corns white pepper; 2 large blades of mace : 5 hours i.

more. ‘Cream, 1 pint; ‘almonds, 13 oz.3 vermicelli, 1 oz.
minute. Little thickening, if needed.

Obs.—Cream should always be boiled for a few minutes be-
‘ fore it is added to any soup. The yolks of two or three very
fresh eggs beaten well, and mixed with half a pint of the boiling
soup, may be stirred into the whole, after it 1s taken from the
fire. Some persons put the eggs into the tureen, and add the
soup to them by degrees; but this is not so well. Ifa superior
white soup to this be wanted, put three quarts of water to seven
pounds of veal, and half a pound of the lean part of a ham; or,
Instead of water, use very clear, weak veal broth. Grated Par-
mesan cheese should be handed round the table when white or
maccaroni soup is served.

A RICHER WHITE SOUP.

Pound very fine indeed six ounces of sweet almonds, then
add to them six ounces of the breasts of roasted chickens or par-
tridges, and three ounces of the whitest bread which has been
soaked in a little veal broth, and squeezed very dry in a cloth.
Beat these altogether to an extremely smooth paste; then pour
to them boiling and by degrees, two quarts of rich veal stock ;
strain the soup through a fine hair sieve, set it again over the
fire, add to it a pint of thick cream, and serve it, as soon as it is
at the point of boiling, with a French roll in the tureen.° When
cream is very scarce, or not easily to be procured, this soup may
be thickened sufficiently without it, by increasing the quantity
of almonds to eight or ten ounces, and pouring to them, after
they have been “reduced to the finest paste, a pint of boiling
stock, which must be again wrung from them through a coarse
cloth with very strong pressure: the proportion of meat and

bread also should then be nearly doubled. The stock should be _

well seasoned with mace and cayenne before it is added to the
other ingredients.

* We have given this receipt without any variation from the original, as the
soup made exactly by it was much approved by the guests of the hospitable
country gentleman, at whose elegant table it was served often for many years;
but we would rather recommend that the almonds should be pounded, or merely
blanched, cut in spikes, stuck into the crumb of a French a and putinto the
tureen, simply to give flavour to the soup,

CHAP. 1.] . SOUPS. ‘93

soaked bread, 3 ozs. ; a stock, 2 quarts ; cream, 1 ‘pint. a
Obs.—Some persons pound the yolks of four or five hard-

boiled eggs with the almonds, meat, and bread for this white aii.

soup; French cooks beat smoothly with them an ounce or two
if whole rice, previously boiled from fifteen to twenty minutes.
~ Obs.—A good plain white soup may be made simply by
adding to a couple of quarts of pale veal stock or strong well
flavoured veal broth, a thickening of arrow-root, and from half
to three quarters of a pint of cream. our ounces of maccaroni
boiled tender and well drained may be slipped into it a minute

or two before it is dished, but the thickening may then be dimi-
nished a little.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

To make a single tureen of this favourite English soup in the
most economical manner, when there is no stock at hand, stew
gently down in a gallon of water four pounds of the fleshy part
of the shin of beef, or of the neck, if more convenient, with two
or three carrots, one onion, a small head of celery, a bunch of
savoury herbs, a blade of mace, a half-teaspoonful of pepper-
corns, and an ounce of salt. When the meat is quite in frag-
ments, strain off the broth, and pour it when cold upon three
pounds of the knuckle, or of the neck of veal; simmer this until
the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, but be careful to stew
it as softly as possible, or the quantity of stock will be so much
reduced as to be insufficient for the soup. Next, take the half
of a fine calf’s head with the skin on, remove the brains, and
and then bone it* entirely, or let the butcher be requested to do
this, and to return the bones with it: these, when there is time,
may be stewed with the veal, to enrich the stock, or boiled after-
wards with the head and tongue. Strain the soup through a
hair-sieve into a clean pan, and let it drain closely from the
meat. When it is nearly or quite cold, clear off all the fat from
it; roll the head lightly round, leaving the tongue inside, or
taking it out as is most convenient, secure it with tape or twine,
pour the soup over, and bring it gently to boil upon a moderate
fire; keep it well skimmed, and simmer it from an hour to an
hour anda quarter ; then lift the head into a deep pan or tureen,

* This is so simple and easy a process, that the cook may readily accomplish
it with very little attention. Let her only work the knife close to the bone
always. so as to take the flesh clean fromit, instead of leaving large fragments

on. The jaw-bone may first be removed, and the flesh turned back from the edge
of the other.

24 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. 1

add the soup to it, and let it remain in until early cold, as
this will prevent the edges from becoming dark. Cut into
-"*quarter-inch slices, and then divide into dice, from six to eight
ounces of the lean of an undressed ham, and if possible, one of
good flavour; free it perfectly from fat, rind, and the Cine

edges; peel and slice four moderate sized eschalots, or if these
should not be at hand, one mild onion in lieu of them. Dissolve
in a well-tinned stewpan, or thick iron saucepan which holds a
gallon or more, four ounces of butter; put in the ham and
eschalots, or onion, with half a dozen cloves, two middling sized
blades of mace, a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns, three or four
very small sprigs of thyme, three teaspoonsful of minced parsley,
one of lemon thyme and winter savoury mixed, and when the
flavour is thought appropriate, the very thin rind of half. a
small fresh lemon. Stew these as softly as possible for nearly
or quite an hour, and keep the pan frequently shaken; then put
into a dredging box two ounces of fine dry flour and sprinkle
it to them by degrees ; mix the whole well together, and after a
few minutes more of gentle simmering, add very gradually five
full pints of the stock taken free of fat and sediment, and made
boiling before it is poured in; shake the pan strongly round as
the first portions of it are added, and continue to do so until it
contains from two to three pints, when the remainder may be
poured in at once, and the pan placed by the side of the fire that
it may boil in the gentlest manner for an hour. At the end of
that time turn the whole into a hair-sieve placed over a large
pan, and if the liquid should not run through freely, knock the
sides of the sieve, but do not force it through with a spoon, as
that would spoil the appearance of the stock. The head in the
mean while should have been cut up, ready to add to it. For
the finest kind of mock turtle, only the skin, with the fat that
adheres to it should be used; and this, with the tongue, should
be cut down into one inch squares, or if preferred, into strips of an
inch wide. Jor ordinary occasions, the lean part of the flesh
may be added also, but as it is always sooner done than the skin,
it is better to add it to the soup a little later. When it is quite
ready, put it with the strained stock into a clean pan, and sim-
mer it from three quarters of an hour to a full hour: it should |
be perfectly tender, without being allowed to break. Cayenne,
if needed, should be thrown into the stock before it is strained ;
salt should be used sparingly, on account of the ham, until the
whole of the other ingredients have been mixed together, when
a sufficient quantity must be stirred into the soup to season it
properly. A couple of glasses of good sherry or Madeira, with

CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 25

a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice are usually added two
or three minutes only before the soup is dished, that the spirit ¥
and flavour of the wine may not have time to evaporate ; but it
is sometimes preferred mellowed down by longer boiling. The
roportion of lemon-juice may be doubled at will, but much acid

oA not generally liked. We can assure the reader of the excel-
lence of the soup made by this receipt: it is equally palatable
and delicate, and not heavy or cloying to the stomach, like many
of the elaborate compositions which bear its name. The fat,
through the whole process, should be carefully skimmed off.
The ham gives far more savour, when used as we have directed,
than when, even in much larger proportions, it is boiled down in
the stock. Two dozens of forcemeat balls, prepared by the
receipt No. 11, Chap. VI., should be slipped into the soup when
it is ready for table. It is no longer customary to serve egg-
balls in it.

First broth :—shin, or neck of beef, 4 Ibs.; water, 4 quarts ;
carrots, 2 or 3; large mild onion, 1; celery, small head; bunch
savoury herbs; mace, 1 large blade; peppercorns, } teaspoonful;
cloves, 6; salt, 1 oz.: 5 hours or more, very gently. For stock:
the broth and 3 lbs. neck or knuckle of veal (bones of head if
ready): 4 to 5 hours. Boned half-head with skin on and
tongue, 1 to 1i hour. Lean of undressed ham, 6 to 8 ozs. (6 if
very salt); shalots, 4, or onion, 1; fresh butter, 4 ozs.; cloves,
6 ; middling sized blades of mace, 2; pepper-corns, 3 teaspoonful ;
small sprigs of thyme, 3 or 4; minced parsley, 3 large teaspoons-
ful; minced savoury and lemon-thyme mixed, 1 small teaspoonful
(thin rind 3 small lemon, when liked): 1 hour. Flour, 2 ozs¢:
5 minutes. Stock, full five pints; flesh of head and tongue,
13 to 2 lbs.: 2 of an hour to 1 hour (salt, if needed, to be
added in interim). Good sherry, or Madeira, 2 wineglassesful ;
lemon-juice, 1 to 2 dessertspoonsful; forcemeat balls, ‘24.

Obs. 1.—The beef, veal, bones of the head, and vegetables
may be stewed down together when more convenient : it is only
necessary that a really good, well-flavoured, and rather deeply- .
coloured stock should be prepared. A calf’s foot is always an
advantageous addition to it, and the skin of another calf’s head*
a better one still.

. * Country butchers, in preparing a calf’s head for sale in the ordinary way take
of the skin (or scalp), considered so essential to the excellence of this soup, and
frequently throw it away; it may, therefore, often be procured from them at
very slight cost, and is the best possible addition to the mock turtle. It is
cleared from the head in detached portions with the hair on, but this may easily
be removed after a few minutes’ scalding as from the head itself, or the feet, by
the direction given in C2ap. IX.

26 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. 1.

Obs. 2.—A couple of dozen mushroom-buttons, cleaned with
salt and flannel, then wiped very dry, and sliced, and added to
the ham and herbs, when they have been simmered together
about half an hour, will be found a great improvement to
the soup ; but when they are not procurable, a pleasant flavour
may be imparted to it by substituting two or three fresh bay-
leaves.

Obs. 3.—Claret is sometimes added to this soup instead of
sherry or Madeira, but we do not think it would in general suit
English taste so well. From two to three tablespoonsful of
Harvey’s sauce can be stirred in with the wine ‘when it is liked,
or when the colour requires deepening.

OLD-FASHIONED MOCK TURTLE.

After having taken out the brain and washed and soaked the
head well, pour to it nine quarts of cold water, bring it gently

’ to boil, skim it very clean, boil it, if large, an hour and a half,

lift it out, and put into the liquor eight pounds of neck of beef,
lightly browned in a little fresh butter, with three or four thick
slices, or a knuckle of lean ham, four large onions sliced, three
heads of celery, three large carrots, a large bunch of sweet
herbs, the rind of a lemon pared very thin, a dessertspoonful of
pepper-corns, two ounces of salt, and after the meat has been
taken from the head, all the bones and fragments. Stew these
gently from seven to eight hours, then strain off the stock, and
set it into a very cool place, that the fat may become firm
enough on the top to be cleared off easily. The skin and fat of
the head should be taken off together and divided into strips of
two or three inches in length, and one in width; the tongue
may be cut in the same manner, or into dice. Put the stock, of
which there ought to be between four and five quarts, into a
large soup or stew pot; thicken it when it boils with four
ounces of fresh butter* mixed with an equal weight of fine dry
flour, a half-teaspoonful of pounded mace, and a third as much
cf cayenne (it is better to use these sparingly at first, and to

~ add more should the soup require it, after it has boiled some

little time); pour in half a pint of sherry, stir the whole
together until it has simmered for a minute or two, then put in
the head, and let it stew gently from an hour and a quarter to
an hour and a half: stir it often, and clear it perfectly from
scum. Slip into it, just before it is ready for table, three dozens
_* When the butter is considered objectionable, the flour, without it, may be

mixed to the smoothest batter possible, with a little cold stock or water, and ~
stirred briskly into the boiling soup: the spices should be blended with it.

CHAP. 1.} SOUPS. ie
of small forcemeat-balls; the brain cut into dice (after having
been well soaked, scalded,* and freed from the film), dipped «
into beaten yolk of egg, then into the finest crumbs mixed with
salt, white pepper, a little grated nutmeg, fine lemon-rind, and ~
chopped parsley fried a fine brown, well drained and dried; and
_.as many egg-balls, the size of a small marble, as the yolks of
~ four eggs will supply. (See Chapter VI.) This quantity will
be sufficient for two large tureens of soup; when the whole is
not wanted for table at the same time, it is better to add wine
only to so much as will be required for immediate consumption,
or if it cannot conveniently be divided, to heat the wine in a
small saucepan with a little of the soup, to turn it into the
tureen, and then to mix it with the remainder by stirring the
whole gently after the tureen is filled. Some persons simply
put in the cold wine just before the soup is dished, but this is
not so well.

Whole calf’s head with skin on, boiled 14 hour. Stock:
neck of beef, browned in butter, 8 lbs.; lean of ham, 3 to 2
Ib. (or a knuckle) ; onions, 4; large carrots, 3; heads of celery,
3; large bunch sweet herbs; salt, 2 ozs. (as much more to be
added when the soup is made as will season it sufficiently) ;
thin rind, 1 lemon; peppercorns, 1 dessertspoonful ; bones and
trimmings of head: 8 hours. Soup: stock, 4 to 5 quarts;
flour and butter for thickening, of each 4 ozs.; pounded mace,
half-teaspoonful; cayenne, third as much (more of each as
needed) ; sherry, half pint: 2 to 3 minutes. Flesh of head
and tongue, nearly or quite, 2 lbs.: 14 to14 hour. Forcemeat-
balls, 36 ; the brain cut and fried ; egg-balls, 16 to 24.

Obs.—W hen the brain is not blanched it must be cut thinner
in the form of small cakes, or it will not be done through by the
time it has taken enough colour: it may be altogetler omitted
without much detriment to the soup, and will make an excellent
corner dish, if gently stewed in white gravy for half an hour,
and served with it thickened with cream and arrow-root, to the |
consistency of good white sauce, then rather highly seasoned,
and mixed with plenty of chopped parsley, and some lemon-
juice.

GOOD CALF’S HEAD SOUP.
(Not expensive.)
Boil down from six to seven pounds of the.thick part of a

ee The brain should be blanched, that is, thrown into boiling water with a -
litile salt in it, and boiled from five to eight minutes; then lifted out, and

ee barat cold water for a quarter of an hour; it must be wiped very dry before
is fried. -

28 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I.

shin of beef with a little lean ham, or a slice of hung beef
trimmed free from the smoky edges, should either of these last
be at hand, in five quarts of water, till reduced nearly half,
. with the addition, when it first begins to stew, of an ounce of
salt, a large bunch of savoury herbs, one large onion, a head of
celery, three carrots, two or three turnips, two small blades of
mace, eight or ten cloves, and a few white or black pepper-
corns. Let it boil gently, that it may not be too much reduced,
for six or seven hours, then strain it into a clean pan and set it
by for use. Take out the bone from half a calf’s head with
the skin on (the butcher will do this if desired), wash, roll, and
bind it with a bit of tape or twine, and lay it into a stewpot,
with the bones and tongue; cover the whole with the beef
stock, and stew it for an hour and a half; then lift itinto a
deep earthen pan and let it cool in the liquor, as this will
prevent the edges from being dry or discoloured. ‘Take it out
before it is quite cold; strain, and skim all the fat carefully
from the stock ; heat five pints in a large clean saucepan, with
the head cut into small thick slices or into inch-squares. As
quite the whole will not be needed, leave a portion of the fat,
but add every morsel of the skin to the soup, and of the tongue
also. Should the first of these not be perfectly tender, it must
be simmered gently till it is so; then stir into the soup from six
to eight ounces of fine rice-flour mixed with a quarter-teaspoon-
ful of cayenne, twice as much freshly pounded mace, half a
wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and sufficient cold broth or
water to render it of the consistency of batter; boil the whole
from eight to ten minutes ; take off the scum, and throwin two
glasses of sherry; dish the soup and slip into the tureen some
delicately fried, and well dried forcemeat-balls made by the
receipt No. 1, 2, or 3 of Chapter VI. A small quantity of
lemon-juice or other acid can be added at pleasure. The wine
and forcemeat-balls may be omitted, and the other seasonings of
the soup a little heightened. As much salt as may be required
should be added to the stock when the head first begins to boil
in it: the cook must regulate also by the taste the exact pro-
portion of cayenne, mace, and catsup, which will flavour the
soup agreeably. The fragments of the head, with the bones
and the residue of the beef used for stock, if stewed down
together with some water and a few ‘fresh vegetables, will
afford some excéllent broth, such as would be highly acceptable,
especially if well thickened with rice, to many a poor family
during the winter months.
Stock: shin of beef, 6 to 7 Ibs.; water, 5 quarts: stewed

CHAP. 1.] SOUPS. 29

down (with vegetables, &c.) till reduced nearly half. Boned
half-head with skin on stewed in stock, 14 hour. Soup:
stock, 5 pints; tongue, skin of head, and part of flesh: 15 to 40
minutes, or more if not quite tender. Rice-flour, 6 to 8 ozs. ;
cayenne, quarter-teaspooniul ; mace, twice as much ; mushroom
‘eatsup, } wineglassful: 10 minutes. Sherry, 2 wineglassesful ,
forcemeat-balls, 20 to 30.

P POTAGE A LA REINE.

Should there be no strong veal broth, nor any white stock in
readiness, stew four pounds of the scrag or knuckle of veal, with
a, thick slice or two of lean ham, a faggot of sweet herbs, two
moderate-sized carrots, and the same of onions, a large blade of
mace, and a half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns, in four
quarts of water until reduced to about five pints; then strain
the liquor, and set it by until the fat can be taken entirely from
it. Skin, and wash thoroughly, a couple of fine fowls, or three
young pullets, and take away the dark spongy substance which
adheres to the insides ; pour the veal broth to them, and _ boil
them gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour ; then
lift them out, take off all the white flesh, mince it small, pound
it to the finest paste, and cover it with a basin till wanted for
use. In the mean time let the bodies of the fowls be put again
into the stock, and stewed gently for an hour and a half; add as
much salt and cayenne as will season the soup properly, strain
it off when sufficiently boiled, and let it cool; skim off every
particle of fat; steep, in a small portion of it, which should be
boiling, four ounces of the crumb of light stale bread, sliced
thin, and when it has simmered a few minutes, drain or wring
the moisture from it in a clean cloth, add it to the flesh of the
chickens, and pound them together until they are perfectly
blended ; then pour the stock to them in very small quantities
at first, and mix them smoothly with it; pass the whole through
a sieve or tammy, heat it in a clean stewpan, stir to it from a
pint to a pint and a halfof boiling cream, and add, should it not
be sufficiently thick, an ounce and a half of arrow-root, quite
free from lumps, and moistened with a few spoonsful of cold
milk or stock.

For stock: veal, 4 Ibs.; ham, 6 ozs.; water, 4 quarts; bunch
of herbs; carrots, 2; onions, 2; mace, large blade; pepper-
corns, 4 teaspoonful; salt: 5. hours. Fowls, 2, or pullets, 3;
2 to 1 hour; stewed afterwards 1 to 13 hour. Crumb of

bread, 4 ozs.; cream, 1 te 13 pint; arrow-root (if needed),
13 oz.

80 ‘ MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I.
*zq

Obs.—Some cooks pound with the bread and chickens the —
yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, but these improv
neither the colour nor the flavour of the soup.

WHITE OYSTER SOUP,
Or, Oyster Soup a la Reine.

When the oysters are small, from two to three dozens for each
pint of soup should be prepared, but this number can, of course,
be diminished or increased at pleasure. Let the fish (which
should be finely conditioned natives) be opened carefully ; pour
the liquor from them, and strain it; rinse them in it well, and
beard them; strain the liquor a second time through a lawn-
sieve or folded muslin, and pour it again over the oysters.
Take a portion from two quarts of the palest veal stock, and
simmer the beards in it from twenty to thirty minutes. Heat
the soup, flavour it well with mace and cayenne, and strain the
stock from the oyster-beards into it. Plump the fish in their
own liquor, but do not let them boil; pour the liquor to the
soup, and add to.it a pint of boiling cream; put the oysters into
the tureen, dish the soup, and send it to table quickly. Should
any thickening be required, stir briskly to the stock an ounce
and a half of arrow-root, ground very smooth in a mortar, and
carefully mixed with a little milk or cream ; or, in lieu of this,
when a r7ch soup is liked, thicken it with four ounces of fresh
butter well blended with three of flour.

Oysters, 8 to 12 dozens; pale veal stock, 2 quarts; cream,

1 pint; thickening, 14 oz. arrow-root, or butter, 4 ozs., flour,
3 OZS.

RABBIT SOUP A LA REINE.

Wash and soak thoroughly three young rabbits, put them
whole into the soup-pot, and pour on them seven pints of cold
water, or of clear veal broth; when they have stewed gently
about three quarters of an hour, lift them out, and take oif the
flesh of the backs, with a little from the legs, should there not
be half a pound of the former; strip off the skin, mince the
meat very small, and pound it to the smoothest paste; cover it
from the air, and set it by. Put back into the soup the bodies
of the rabbits, with two mild onions of moderate size, a head of
celery, three carrots, a faggot of savoury herbs, two blades of
mace, a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns, and an ounce of salt.
Stew the whole softly about four hours, strain it off, let it stand
to settle, pour it gently from the sediment, put from four to five |
pints into a clean stewpan, and mix it very gradually while hot,

CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 7 - ?

with the pounded rabbit-flesh : this must be done with care, for
if the liquid be not added in very small portions at first, the
meat will gather into lumps, and will not easily be worked
smooth afterwards. Add as much pounded mace and cayenne
as will season the soup pleasantly, and pass it through a coarse
but very clean sieve; wipe out the stewpan, put back the soup
into it, and stir in when it boils, a pint and a quarter of good
cream, mixed with a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root:
salt, if needed, should be thrown in previously.

Young rabbits, 3; water, or clear veal broth, 7 pints: $ of
an hour. Remains of rabbits; onions, 2; celery, 1 head; car-
rots, 3; savoury herbs; mace, 2 blades; white peppercorns, a
half-teaspoonful ; salt, 1 0oz.: 4 hours. Soup, 4 to 5 pints;
pounded rabbit-flesh, 8 ozs. ; salt, mace, and cayenne, if needed ;
cream, 1} pint; arrow-root, 1 tablespoonful (or 13 0z.)

BROWN RABBIT SOUP

Cut down into joints, flour, and fry lightly, two full grown,
or three young rabbits; add to them three onions of moderate
size, also fried to a clear brown; on these pour gradually seven
pints of boiling water, throw in a large teaspoonful of salt, clear
off all the scum with care as it rises, and then put to the soup a
faggot of parsley, four not very large carrots, and a small tea-
spoonful of peppercorns; boil the whole very softly from five
hours to five and a half; add more salt if needed, strain off the
soup, jet it cool sufficiently for the fat to be skimmed clean
from it, heat it afresh, and send it to table with sippets of fried
bread. Spice, with a thickening of rice-flour, or of wheaten
flour browned in the oven, and mixed with a spoonful or two of
very good mushroom catsup, or of Harvey’s sauce, can be added
at pleasure to the above, with a few drops of eschalot-wine, or
vinegar; but the simple receipt will be found extremely good

without them. ‘

sized ; water, 7 pints ; salt, 1 large teaspoonful or more ; carrots,
scot of parsley ; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful: 5 to
54 hours.

SUPERLATIVE HARE SOUP.

Cut down a hare into joints, and put it into a soup-pot, or
large stewpan, with about a pound of lean ham, in thick slices,
three moderate-sized mild onions, three blades of mace, a faggot
tf thyme, sweet marjoram, and parsley, and about three quarts
of good beef stock. Let it stew very gently for full two

*
39 . MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP, I.

hours from the time of its first beginning to boil, and more,
if ‘the hare be old. Strain the soup and pound together very
* fine the slices of ham and all the flesh of the back, legs, and
- © shoulders of the hare, and put this meat into a stewpan with the
liquor in which ‘it was boiled, the crumb of two French rolls,
and half a pint of port wine. Set it on the stove to simmer
twenty minutes ; then rub it through a sieve, place it again on the
stove till very hot, but do not let it boil; season it with salt and
cayenne, and send it to table directly. .
- Hare, 1; ham, 12 to 16 ozs; onions, 3 to 6; mace, 3 blades;
faggot of savoury herbs ; beef stock, 3 quarts: 2 hours. Crumb
of 2 rolls; port wine, 3 pint; little salt and cayenne: 20 mi-
nutes.

A LESS EXPENSIVE HARE SOUP.*

Pour on two pounds of neck or shin of beef, and a hare well
washed and carved into joints, one gallon of cold water, and
when it boils and has been thoroughly skimmed, add an ounce
and a half of salt, two onions, one large head of celery, three
moderate-sized carrots, a teaspoonful of black peppercorns, and
six cloves.

. Let these stew very gently for three hours, or longer, should
the hare not be perfectly tender. Then take up the principal
joints, cut the meat from them, mince, and pound it to a fine
paste, with the crumb of two penny rolls (or two ounces of the
crumb of household bread), that has been soaked in a little of
the boiling soup, and then pressed very dry in a cloth; strain,
and mix smoothly with it, the stock from the remainder of the
hare ; pass the soup through a strainer, season it with cayenne,
and serve it when at the point of boiling: if not sufficiently
thick, add tovit a tablespoonful of arrow-root, moistened with
little cold broth, and let the soup simmer for an instant af
wards. ‘Two or three glasses of port wine, and two d
small forcemeat balls, are sometimes added to this
very good efiect. MES

Beef, 2 lbs.; hare, 1; water, 1 gallon; salt, 14 oz.; Onions,
2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 3; bunch savoury herbs; pepper-

» corns, 1 teaspoonful; cloves, 6: 3 hours, or more. Bread, 2
OZS.3 cayenne; arrow-roct (if needed), 1 tablespoonfal.

a PHEASANT SOUP.
Half roast a brace of well-kept pheasants, and flour them

* The remains of a roasted hare, with the forcemeat and gravy, are admirably
calculated for making this soup.

i
CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 33 Ei

rather thickly when they are first laid to the fire. As soon as
they are nearly cold take all the flesh from the breasts, put it
aside, and keep it covered from the air; carve down the re-
mainder of the birds into joints, bruise the bodies thoroughly, ~
and stew the whole gently from two to three hours in five pints
of strong beef broth; then strain off the soup, and press as
much of it as possible from the pheasants. Let it cool, and in
the mean time strip the skin from the breasts, mince them small,
and pound them to the finest paste, with half as much fresh
‘butter, and half of dry crumbs of bread ; season these well with
cayenne, sufficiently with salt, and moderately with pounded
mace, and grated nutmeg, and add, when their flavour is liked,
three or four eschalots, previously boiled tender in a little of the
soup, left till cold, and minced before they are put into the
mortar ; moisten the mixture with the yolks of two or three
eggs, roll it into small balls of equal size, dust a little flour upon
them, skim all the fat from the soup, heat it in a clean stewpan,
and when it boils throw them ‘In and poach them from ten to
twelve minutes, but first ascertain that the soup is properly sea-
soned with. salt and cayenne. Minced savoury herbs, and even
grated lemon-rind, would perhaps to English taste improve the
forcemeat, as well.as a small portion of lean ham, a thick slice
of which might be stewed in the soup for the purpose. We
have recommended that the birds should be partially roasted
before they are put into the soup-pot, because their flavour is
much finer when this is done than when they are simply stewed ;
they should be placed rather near to a brisk fire that they be
quickly browned on the surface, without losing any of their
juices, and the basting should be constant. A slight thickening
of rice-flour or arrow-root can be added to the soup at pleasure,
and the forcemeat-balls may be fried and slipped into the tureen
when they are preferred so. Half a dozen eschalots lightly
browned in butter, and a small head of celery may also be
thrown in after the birds begin to stew, but nothing should be
allowed to prevail over the natural flavour of the game itself’;.
and this should be observed equally with other kinds, as par-
tridges, grouse, and venison.

Pheasants, 2: roasted 20 to 30 minutes. Strong beef broth,
or stock, 5 pints: 2 to 3 hours. £orcemeat-balls: breasts of
pheasants, half as much of dry bread-crumbs-and of butter, salt,
mace, cayenne ; yolks of 2 or 3 eggs (and at choice 3 or 4 boiled
eschalots). he

Obs.—The stock may be made of six pounds of shin of beef,
and four quarts of water reduced to within a pint of half. A

D yf

yarn
ree
#

e346 MODERN COOKERY. [omar. 1.

onion, a large carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, and some salt
and spice should be added to it: one pound of neck of veal or of
beef will improve it.

ANOTHER PHEASANT SOUP.

Boil down the half-roasted birds as directed in the foregoing
receipt, and add to the soup, after it is strained and re-heated, —
the breasts pounded to the finest paste with nearly as much
bread soaked in a little of the stock and pressed very dry ; for
the proper manner of mixing them, see Potage a la Reine, page
29. Half a pint of small mushrooms cleaned as for pickling,
then sliced. rather thickly, and stewed from ten to fifteen
minutes, without browning, in an ounce or two of fresh butter,
with a slight seasoning of mace, cayenne, and salt, then turned
into the mortar and pounded with the other ingredients, will be
found an excellent addition to the soup, which must be passed
through a strainer after:the breasts are added to it, brought to
the point of boiling, and served with sippets a la Reine, or
with others simply fried of a delicate brown and well dried.
We have occasionally had a small quantity of delicious soup
made with the remains of birds which have been served at
table; and where game is frequently dressed, the cook, by
reserving all the fragments for the purpose, and combining
different kinds, may often send up a good tureen of such, made
atia very slight cost.

Pheasants, 2; stock, 5 pints; bread soaked in gravy (see
Panada, Chapter VI.), nearly as much i bulk as the flesh of
the breasts of the birds; mushrooms, } pint, stewed in 1 or 2
ozs. of butter 10 to 15 minutes, then pounded with flesh of
pheasants. Salt, cayenne, and mace, to season properly.

PARTRIDGE SOUP. vA
This is, we think, superior in flavour to the pheasant soup. —
It should be made in precisely the same manner, but three
-birds: allowed for it instead of two. Grouse and partridges
together will make a still finer one: the remains of roast grouse
even, added to a brace of partridges, will produce a very good
, effect. |

~&
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.

Slice, and fry gently in some good butter three or four large
onions, and when they are of a fine equal amber-colour lift
them out with a slice and put them into a deep stewpot, or large
thick saucepan; throw a little more butter into the pan, and

;

CHAP. I. | SOUPS. 85

then brown lightly in it a young rabbit, or the prime joints of
two, or a fowl cut down small, and floured. When the meat is
sufficiently browned, lay it upon the onions, pour gradually to
them a quart of good boiling stock, and stew it gently from
three quarters of an hour to an hour ; then take it out, and
press the stock and onions through a "fine sieve or strainer.
Add to them two pints and a half more of stock, pour the whole
into a clean pan, and when it boils stir to it two heaped table-
spoonsful of currie-powder mixed with nearly as much of
browned flour, and a little cold water or broth; put in the
meat, and simmer it for twenty minutes or longer should it not
be perfectly tender, add the juice of a small lemon just before it
is dished, serve it very hot, and send boiled rice to table with it.
Part of a pickled mango is sometimes stewed in this soup, and —
is much recommended by persons who have been long resident
in India. We have given here the sort of receipt commonly
used in England for mullagatawny, but.a much finer soup.may
be made by departing from it in some respects. ‘The onions, of
which the proportion may be increased or diminished to the
taste, after being fried slowly, and with care, that no part
should be overdone, may be stewed for an hour in the first
guart of stock with three or four ounces of grated cocoa-nut,
which will impart a rich mellow flavour to the whole. After
all of this that can be rubbed through the sieve has been added,
to as much stock as will be required for the soup, and the currie-
powder and thickening have boiled in it for i minutes, the
fiesh of part of a calf’s head previously stewed almost suffi-
ciently, and cut as for mock turtle, with a sweetbread also
stewed or boiled in broth tolerably tender, and divided into
inch-squares, will make an admirable mullagatawny, if sim-
mered in the stock until they have taken the flavour of the

'. currie-seasoning. The flesh of a couple of calves’ feet, with a

sweetbread or two, may, when more convenient, be substituted
for the head. A large cupful of thick cream, first mixed and
boiled with a teaspoonful of fiour or arrow-root to prevent its,
curdling, and stirred into the soup before the lemon-juice, will
enrich and improve it much.

Rabbit, 1, or the best joints of 2, or fowl, 1; large onions, 4
to 6; stock, 1 quart: ? to 1 hour. 24 pints more of stock ;
currie-powder, . 2 heaped tablespoonsful, with 2 of browned
flour; meat and all simmered together 20 minutes or more;
juice of lemon, 1 small; or part of pickled mango stewed im
the soup.

_Or,—onions, 3 to 6; cocoa-nut, 3 to 4 ozs.; stock, 1 quart:

36 MODERN COOKERY.. [CHAP. I.

stewed, 1 hour. Stock, 3 pints (in addition to the first quart) ;
currie-powder and thickening each, 2 large tablespoonsful: 20
minutes. Flesh of part of calf’s head and sweetbread, 15
minutes, or more. Thick cream, 1 cupful; flour, or arrow-root,
1 teaspoonful : boiled 2 minutes, and stirred to the soup. Chili
vinegar, 1 tablespoonful, or lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful.

Obs. 1.—The brain of the calf’s head stewed for twenty
minutes in a little of the stock, then rubbed through a sieve,
diluted gradually with more of the stock, and added as thicken-
ing tothe soup, will be found an admirable substitute for part of
the flour.

Obs.2.—Three or four pounds of a breast of veal, or an equal
weight of mutton, free from bone and fat, may take the place of
rabbits or fowls in this soup, for a plain dinner. The veal should
be cut into squares of an inch and a half, or into strips of an
inch in width, and two in length; and the mutton should be
trimmed down in the same way, or into very small cutlets.

Obs. 3.—For an elegant table, the joints of rabbit or of fowl
should always be boned before they are added to the soup, for
which, in this case, a couple of each will be needed for a single
tureen, as all the inferior joints must be rejected.

TO BOIL RICE FOR MULLAGATAWNY SOUPS, OR FOR CURRIES.
The Patna, or small-grained rice, which is not so good as the

Carolina for the general purposes of cookery, is the sort which

ought to be served with currie. First take out the unhusked

.grains, then wash the rice in two or three different waters, and -

put it into a large quantity of cold; bring it gently to boil,
keeping it uncovered, and boil it softly for fifteen minutes, when
it will be perfectly tender, and every grain will remain distinct.
Throw it into a /arge cullender, and let it drain for ten minutes
near the fire; should it not then appear quite dry, turn it into
a dish, and set it for a short time into a gentle oven, or let it
steam in a clean saucepan near the fire. It should neither be
stirred, except just at first, to prevent its lumping while it is
still quite hard, nor touched with either fork or spoon; the
stewpan may be shaken occasionally, should the rice seem to
require it, and it should be thrawn lightly from the cullender
upon the dish. A couple of minutes before it is done, throw
in some salt, and from the time of its beginning to boil, remove
the scum as it rises.
Patna rice, 3 lb.; cold water, 2 quarts: boiled slowly, 15
minutes. Salt, 1 large teaspoonful.
_Obs.—This, of all the modes of boiling rice, which we have

CHAP. I.] SOUPS. | . 37

tried, and they have been very numerous, is indisputably the
best. ‘The Carolina rice even, answers well dressed, in this way.
One or two minutes, more or less, will sometimes, from the
varying quality of the grain, be requisite to render it tender.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BOILING RICE.
(Wot so good as the preceding one.)

Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, and soak it for
an hour; drain and throw it into a large quantity of fast-boil-
ing water. Leave it uncovered, take off the scum, and add salt
when it is nearly done. When it has boiled from fifteen to
eighteen minutes, drain it well, heap it lightly in a dish, and
place it in a gentle oven to dry.

Obs.—Rice is of far better flavour when cooked in so much
water only as it will absorb; but it cannot then so easily be
rendered dry enough to serve with currie, or. with curried soups.
One pint of rice, washed and soaked for a few minutes, then
wiped very dry, and dropped by degrees into five half pints of
water, which should boil quickly, and continue to do so, while
the rice is being added, and for a minute afterwards, and then
placed over the fire, that it may stew very softly for half an
hour, or until it is tender, and as dry as it will become without
being burned, will be found very good. The addition of a
couple of ounces of fresh butter, when it is nearly done, will
convert it into a very palatable dish of itself.

VEGETABLE MULLAGATAWNY.

Dissolve in a large stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, four
ounces of butter, and when it is on the point of browning, throw
in four large mild onions sliced, three pounds weight of young
vegetable marrow, cut in large dice, and cleared from the skin
and seeds, four large, or six moderate sized cucumbers, pared, split,
and emptied likewise of their seeds, and from three to six large
acid apples, according to the taste; shake the pan often, and
stew these over a gentle fire until they are tolerably tender ;
then strew lightly over, and mix well amongst them, three
heaped tablespoonsful of mild currie powder, with nearly a third —
as much of salt, and let the vegetables stew from twenty to thirty
minutes longer; then pour to them gradually sufficient boiling
water (broth or stock if preferred), to just cover them, and when
they are reduced almost to a pulp press the whole through a
hair-sieve with a wooden spoon, and heat it in a clean stewpan,
with as much additional liquid as will make two quarts with |
that which was first added. Give any further flavouring that

38 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I.

may be needed, whether of salt, cayenne, or acid, and serve the
soup extremely hot. Should any butter appear on the surface,
let it be carefully skimmed off, or stir in a small dessertspoonful
of arrow-root (smoothly mixed with a little cold broth or water)
to absorb it. Rice may be served with this soup at pleasure,
but as it is of the consistency of winter peas soup, it scarcely
requires any addition. The currie powder may be altogether
omitted for variety, and the whole converted into a plain vege-
table potage; or it may be rendered one of high savour, by
browning all the vegetables lightly, and adding to them rich
brown stock. ‘Tomatas, when in season, may be substituted for
the apples, after being divided, and freed from their seeds.

Butter, 4 ozs.; vegetable marrow, pared and scooped, 3 Ibs. ;
_ large mild onions, 4; large cucumbers, 4; or middling-sized, 6 ;
apples, or tomatas, 3 to 6: 30 to 40 minutes. Mild currie-
powder, 3 heaped tablespoonsful ; salt, one small tablespoonful :
20 to 32 minutes. Water, broth, or good stock, 2 quarts.

CUCUMBER SOUP.

Pare, split, and empty from eight to twenty* fine, well
rown, but not old cucumbers,—those which have the fewest
seeds are best for the purpose; throw a little salt over them,
and leave them for an hour to drain, then put them with the
white part only of a couple of mild onions, into a deep stewpan,
or delicately clean saucepan, cover them nearly half an inch
with pale, but good veal stock, and stew them gently until they
are perfectly tender, which will be in from three quarters of an
hour to an hour anda quarter; press the whole through a hair-
sieve, and add to it as much more stock as may be needed to
make the quantity of soup required for table; and as the
cucumbers, from their watery nature, will thicken it but little,
stir to it when it boils, as much arrow-root, rice-flour, or tous
les mois (see page 4), as will bring it to a good consistency; add
from half to a whole pint of boiling cream, and serve the soup
immediately. Salt and cayenne, sufficient to season it, should
be thrown over the cucumbers while they are stewing. The
yolks of six or eight eggs, mixed with a dessertspoonful of Chili
vinegar, may be used for this soup instead of cream; three
dessertspoonsful of minced parsley may then be strewed into it
a couple of minutes before they are added: it must not, of
course, be allowed to boil after they are stirred in.

* This is a great disparity of numbers; but some regard must be had to
expense, where the vegetable cannot be obtained with facility.

CHAP. 1.] SOUPS. 39

AN EXCELLENT GREEN PEAS SOUP.

Take at their fullest size, but before they are of bad colour or
worm-eaten, three pints of fine large peas, and boil them as for
table (see Chapter XV.) with half a teaspoonful of carbonate of
soda in the water, that they may be very green. When they
are quite tender, drain them well, and put them into a couple of
quarts of boiling, pale, but good beef or veal stock, and stew
them in it gently for half an hour, then work the whole through
a fine hair-sieve ; put it into a clean pan and bring it to the
point of boiling ; add salt, should it be needed, and a small tea-
spoonful. of pounded sugar, clear off the scum entirely, and
serve the soup as hot as possible, with small pale sippets of fried
bread. An elegant variety of it is made by adding a half pint
more of stock to the peas, and about three quarters of a pint of -
asparagus points, boiled apart, and well drained before they are
thrown into it, which should be done only the instant before it
is sent to table: the fried bread will not then be needed.

Green peas, 3 pints: boiled 25 to 30 minutes, or more. Veal
or beef stock, 2 quarts (with peas): 4 an hour. Sugar, one
small teaspoonful ; salt, if needed.

Obs.—W hen there is no stock at hand, four or five pounds of
shin of beef, boiled slowly down with three quarts of water to
two, and well seasoned with savoury herbs, young carrots, and
onions, will serve instead quite well. A thick slice of lean,
undressed ham would improve it.

Should a common English peas soup be wished for, make it
somewhat thinner than the one above, and add to it, just before

it is dished, from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas
boiled tender, and well drained.

GREEN PEAS SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT.

Boil tender, in three quarts of water, with the proportions of
salt and soda directed for them in Chapter XV., one quart of
large, full grown peas ; drain and pound them in a mortar, mix
-with them gradually five pints of the liquor in which they were
boiled, put the whole again over the fire, and stew it gently for
a quarter of an hour; then press it through a hair-sieve. In
the mean time, simmer, in fiom three to four ounces of butter,*
three large, or four small cucumbers, pared and sliced, the hearts
of three or four lettuces shred small, from one to four onions,

* Some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine brown, then drained
on a sieve, and weil dried before the fire; but though more savoury so, they do
not improve the colour of the soup.

40 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. t

according to the taste, cut thin, a few small sprigs of parsley,
and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen leaves or more of mint,
roughly chopped: keep these stirred over a gentle fire for
nearly or quite an hour, and strew over them a half-teaspoonful
of salt, and a good seasoning of white pepper or cayenne. When
they are partially done, drain them from the butter, put them
into the strained stock, and let the whole boil gently until all
the butter has been thrown to the surface, and been entirely
cleared from it; then throw in from half to three quarters of a
pint of young peas, boiled as for eating, and serve the soup im-
mediately.

When more convenient, the peas, with a portion of the liquor,
may be pressed through a sieve, instead of being crushed in a
mortar ; and when the colour of the soup is not so much a con-
sideration as the flavour, they may be slowly stewed until per-
fectly tender in four ounces of good butter, instead of being
boiled: a few green onions, and some branches of parsley may
then be added to them.

Green peas, 1 quart; water, 5 pints; cucumbers, 3 to 6;
lettuces, 3 or 4; onions, 1 to 4; little parsley ; mint (if liked),
12 to 20 leaves; butter, 3 to 4 ozs.; salt, half-teaspoonful ;
seasoning of white pepper or cayenne: 50 to 60 minutes. Young
peas, 3 to 2 of a pint.

Obs.—We must repeat that the peas for these soups must not
be old, as when they are so, their fine sweet flavour is entirely
lost, and the dried ones would have almost as good an effect ;
nor should they be of inferior kinds. Freshly gathered mar-
rowfats, taken at nearly, or quite their full growth, will give
ths; best quality of soup. We are credibly informed, but can-
nut assert it on our own authority, that it is often made for ex-
pensive tables in early spring, with the young, tender plants or
halms of the peas, when they are about a foot in height. They
are cut off close to the ground, like small salad, then boiled and
pressed through a strainer, and mixed with the stock. The
' flavour is affirmed to be excellent. ; .

A CHEAP GREEN PEAS SOUP.

Wash very clean, and throw into an equal quantity of boiling.
water, salted as for peas, three quarts of the shells, and in from
twenty to thirty minutes, when they will be quite tender, turn
the whole into a large strainer, and press the pods strongly with
a wooden spoon. Measure the liquor, put two quarts of it into
a clean, deep saucepan, and when it boils, add to it a quart of
full grown peas, two, or even three large cucumbers, as many

i ce ey

meres ts

CHAP. I. | SOUPS. 41 —

moderate-sized lettuces freed from the coarser leaves, and cut.
small, one large onion (or more if liked), sliced extremely thin
and stewed for half an hour in a morsel of butter before it is
added to the soup, or gently fried without being allowed to
brown; a branch or two of parsley, and, when the flavour is
liked, a dozen leaves of mint. Stew these softly for an hour,
with the addition of a small teaspoonful, or a larger quantity if
required, of salt, and a good seasoning of fine white pepper, or
of cayenne; then press the whole of the vegetables with the
soup through a hair-sieve, heat it afresh, and send it to table
with a dish of small fried sippets.. The colour will not be so
bright as that of the more expensive soups which precede it, but -
it will be excellent in flavour.

Pea-shells, 3 quarts; water, 3 quarts: 20 to 30 minutes.
Liquor from these, 2 quarts; full-sized green peas, 1 quart;
large cucumbers, 2 or 3; lettuces, 3; onion, 1 (or more); little
parsley; mint, 12 leaves; seasoning of salt and pepper or cay-
enne: stewed 1 hour.

Obs.—The cucumbers should be pared, quartered, and freed
from the seeds before they are added to the soup. ‘The peas, as
we have said already more than once, should not be old, but
taken at their full growth, before they lose their colour: the
youngest of the shells ought to be selected for the liquor.

RICH PEAS SOUP.

Soak a quart of fine yellow split peas for a night, drain them
well, and put them into a large soup-pot with five quarts of
good brown gravy stock ; and when they have boiled gently for
half an hour, add to the soup three onions, as many carrots, and
a turnip or two, all sliced and fried carefully in butter; stew
the whole softly till the peas are reduced to pulp, then add as
much salt and cayenne as may be needed to season it well, give
it two or three minutes’ boil, and pass it through a sieve, press-
ing the vegetables with it. Put into a clean saucepan as much
as may be required for table, add a little fresh stock to it should
it be too thick, and reduce it by quick boiling if two thin;
throw in the white part of some fresh celery sliced a quarter of
an inch thick, and when this is tender send the soup quickly to
table with a dish of small fried sippets. A dessertspoonful or
more of currie-powder greatly improves peas soup : it should be
smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of it, and poured to the
remainder when this first begins to boil after having been
strained.

Split peas, 1 quart: soaked one night. Good brown gravy

42 MODERN COOKERY. [CH APy Ine

soup, 5 quarts: 830 minutes. Onions and carrots browned in
butter, 3 of each; turnips, 2: 25 to 35 hours. Cayenne and salt
as needed. Soup, 5 pints; celery sliced, 1 large or 2 small
heads: 20 minutes. .

Obs.—When more convenient, six pounds of neck of beef
well scored and equally, but carefully browned, may be boiled
gently with the peas and fried vegetables in a gallon of water
(which should be poured to them boiling) for four or five
hours.

COMMON PEAS SOUP.

Wash well a quart of good split peas, and float off such as
‘remain on the surface of the water; soak them for one night,
and boil them with a bit of soda the size of a filbert in just
sufficient water to allow them to break toa mash. Put them
into from three to four quarts of good beef broth, and stew
them in it gently for an hour; then work the whole through a
sieve, heat afresh as much as may be required for table, season
it with salt and cayenne or common pepper, clear it perfectly —
from scum, and send it to table with fried or toasted bread.
Celery sliced and stewed in it as directed for the rich peas soup,
will be found a great improvement to this.

Peas, 1 quart: soaked 1 night; boiled in 2 quarts or rather |
more of water, 2 to 25 hours. Beef broth, 3 to 4 quarts: 1
hour. Salt and cayenne or pepper as needed: 3 minutes.

PEAS SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.

To a pint of peas, freed from all that are worm-eaten, and
well washed, put five pints of cold water, and boil them toler-
ably tender ; then add a couple of onions (more or less according
to the taste), a couple of fine carrots grated, one large or two
moderate-sized turnips sliced, all gently fried brown in butter;
half a teaspoonful of black pepper, and three times as much of
salt. Stew these softly, keeping them often stirred, until the
vegetables are sufficiently tender to press through a sieve; then
rub the whole through one, put it into a clean pan, and when it
boils throw in a sliced head of celery, heighten the seasoning if -
needful, and in twenty minutes serve the soup as hot as possible,
with a dish of fried or toasted bread cut into dice. A little Chili
vinegar can be added when liked : a larger proportion of veget-
ables also may be boiled down with the peas at pleasure. Weak
broth, or the liquor in which a joint has been boiled, can, when
at hand, be substituted for the water, but the soup is very

CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 43

palatable as we have given the receipt for it. Some persons
like it flavoured with a little mushroom catsup.

Split peas, 1 pint; water, 5 pints: 2 hours or more. Onions,
2; carrots, 2; large turnip, 1; pepper, 4 teaspoonful; salt, 14
teaspoonful: 1 to 14 hour. Celery, 1 head: 20 minutes.

OX-TAIL SOUP.

An inexpensive and very nutritious soup may be made of
ox-tails, but it will be insipid in flavour without the addition of
a little ham, knuckle of bacon, or a pound or two of other
meat. Wash and soak three tails, pour on them a gallon of cold
water, let them be brought gradually to boil, throw in an ounce
and a half of salt, and clear off the scum carefully as soon as it
forms upon the surface; when it ceases to rise, add four mode-
rate-sized carrots, from two to four onions, according to the
taste, a large faggot of savoury herbs, a head of celery, a couple
of turnips, six or eight cloves, and a half-teaspoonful of pepper-

corns. Stew these gently from three hours to three and a half, —

if the tails be very large; lift them out, strain the liquor, and
skim. off all the fat; cut the meat from the tails (or serve them,
if preferred, divided into joints), and put it into a couple of
quarts or rather more of the stock ; stir in, when these begin to
boil, a thickening of arrow-root or of rice-flour, (see page 4)
mixed with as much cayenne and salt as may be required to
flavour the soup well, and serve it very hot. If stewed down
until the flesh falls away from the bones, the ox-tails will make
stock which will be quite a firm jelly when cold; and this,
strained, thickened, and well flavoured with spices, catsup, or a
little wine, would, to many tastes, be a superior soup to the
above. <A richer one still may be made by pouring good beef
broth instead of water to the meat in the first instance.

Ox-tails, 3; water, 1 gallon; salt, 1}.0z.; carrots, 4; onions,
2 to 4; turnips, 2; celery, 1 head; cloves, 8; peppercorns, }
teaspoonful; faggot of savoury herbs: 3 hours to 3}. For a
richer soup, 5 to 6 hours. (Ham or gammon of bacon at
pleasure, with other flavourings.)

Obs.—To increase the savour of this soup when the meat is
not served in it, the onions, turnips, and carrots may be gently
fried until of a fine light brown, before they are added to it.

A CHEAP AND GOOD STEW SOUP.

Put from four to five pounds of the gristly part of the shin of
beef into three quarts of cold water, and stew it very softly indeed,
with the addition of the salt and vegetables directed for bouillon
(see page 6), until the whole is very tender; lift out the meat,

44 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I.

strain the liquor, and put it into a large clean saucepan, add a
thickening of rice-flour or arrow-root, pepper and salt if needed,
and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. In the mean time,
cut all the meat into small, thick slices, add it to the soup, and
serve it as soon as itis very hot. The thickening and catsup
may be omitted, and all the vegetables, pressed through a strainer,
may be stirred into the soup instead, before the meat is put back ©
into it.
SOUP IN HASTE.

Chop tolerably fine a pound of lean beef, mutton, or veal,
and when it is partly done, add to it a small carrot and one
small turnip, cut in slices, half an ounce of celery, the white
pat of a moderate-sized leek, or a quarter-ounce of onion.

ince all these together and put the whole intoa deep saucepan
with three pints of cold water. When the soup boils, take off
the scum, and add a little salt and pepper. In half an hour it
will be ready to serve with or without straining: it may be
flavoured at will, with cayenne, catsup, or aught else that is
preferred. It may be converted into French spring broth, by
passing it through a sieve, and boiling it again for five or six
minutes with a handful of young and nicely-picked sorrel.

Meat, 1 lb.; carrot, 2 ozs.; turnip, 14 0z.; celery, } 0z.;
onion, 3 0z.; water, 3 pints: half an hour. Little pepper and
salt.

Obs.—Three pounds of beef or mutton, with two or three
slices of ham, and vegetables in proportion to the above receipt,
all chopped fine, and boiled in three quarts of water for an hour
and a half, will make an excellent family soup on an emergency ;
additional boiling will of course improve it, and a little spice
should be added after it has been skimmed, and salted. It may
easily be converted into carrot, turnip, or ground-rice soup after
it is strained.

VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH.

To each pound of meat add a quart of cold water, bring it
gently to boil, skim it very clean, add salt in the same proportion
as for bouillon (see page 4), with spices and vegetables also,
unless unflavoured broth be required, when a few peppercorns,
a blade or two of mace, and a bunch of savoury herbs will be
sufficient; though for some purposes even these, with the
exception of the salt, are better omitted. Simmer the broth for
about: four hours, unless the quantity be very small, when from
two and a half to three, will be sutticient. A little rice boiled
down with the meat will both thicken the broth, and render it

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CHapiar.| FISE. 45
more nutritious. Strain it off when done, and let it stand till
quite cold that the fat may be entirely cleared from it: this is
especially needful when it is to be served to an invalid.

Veal or mutton, 4 lbs.; water, 4 quarts; salt. (For vege-

tables, &c., see page 4;) rice (if used), 4 ozs.: 4 hours or more.

MILK SOUP WITH VERMICELLI.

Throw into five pints of boiling milk a small quantity of salt,
and then drop lightly into it five ounces of good fresh vermicelli ;
keep the milk stirred as this is added, to prevent its gathering
into lumps, and continue to stir it very frequently from fifteen
to twenty minutes, or until it is perfectly tender. The addition
of a little pounded sugar and powdered cinnamon, renders this
a very agreeable dish. In catholic countries, milk soups of
various kinds constantly supply the place of those made with
meat, on maigre days; and with us they are sometimes very
acceptable, as giving a change of diet for the nursery or sick
room. Rice, semoulina, sago, cocoa-nut, and maccaroni may all
in turn be used for them as directed for other soups in this
chapter, but they will be required in rather smaller proportions
with the milk.

Milk, 5 pints; vermicelli, 5 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes.

CHAPTER II.
FISH.
TO CHOOSE FISH. .

Tux cook should be well
acquainted withthe signs
of freshness and good
condition in fish, as
many of them are most
unwholesome articles of
food when stale, or out
of season. The eyes
should be bright, the
gills of a fine clear red,
the body stiff, the flesh “=
firm, yet elastic to the ee

touch, and the smell not Copper Fish or Ham Kettle.

AG . MODERN COOKERY. [onan r

disagreeable. When all these marks are reversed, and the eyes
are sunken, the gills very dark in hue, the fish itself flabby, and
of offensive odour, it is bad, and should be
avoided. The chloride of soda will, it is
true, restore it to a tolerably eatable
state,* if it be not very much over-kept,
~. but it will never resemble in quality fish
Ay that is fresh from the water.
ij} A good turbot is thick, and full fleshed,
Wand the under side is of a pale cream
i" colour or yellowish white; when this: is
Small Fish Kettle called Of a bluish tint, and the fish is thin and

a Mackerel Kettle. soft, it should be rejected. The same
observations apply equally to soles.

The best salmon and cod fish are known by a small head, very
thick shoulders, and a small tail ; the scales of the former should
be bright, and its flesh of a fine red colour: to be eaten in
perfection it should be dressed as soon as it is caught, before the
curd (or white substance which lies between the flakes of flesh)
has melted and rendered the fish oily. In that state it is really
crimp, but continues so only for a very few hours; and it bears
therefore a much higher price in the London market then, than |
‘when mellowed by having been kept a day or two. ‘

The flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is
boiled, whiter still after it is boiled, and firm though tender,
sweet and mild in flavour, and separated easily into large flakes.
Many persons consider it rather improved than otherwise by
having a little salt rubbed along the inside of the back-bone and
letting it lie from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before it is
dressed. It is sometimes served crimp like salmon, and must
then be sliced as soon as it is dead, or within the shortest possible
time afterwards.

Herrings, mackerel, and whitings, lose their freshness so
rapidly, that unless newly caught they are quite uneatable.
The herring may, it is said, be deprived of the strong rank
smell which it emits when broiled or fried, by stripping off the
skin, under which lies the oil that causes the disagreeable odour.
The whiting is a peculiarly pure flavoured and delicate fish, and
acceptable generally to invalids from being very light of diges-
tion.

Eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are

* We have known this applied very successfully to salmon which from some _
hours keeping in sultry weather had acquired a slight degree of taint, of which no
trace remained after it was dressed. ied

CHAP. II. | FISH. 47

purchased, but the “ horrid barbarity,” as it is truly designated,
_ of skinning and dividing them while they are so, is without
excuse, as they are easily destroyed “by piercing the spinal
marrow close to the back part of the skull with a sharp pointed
knife, or skewer. Jf this be done in the right place all motion
will instantly cease.” We quote Doctor Kitchener’s assertion on
this subject ; but we know that the mode of destruction which
he recommends is commonly practised by the London fish-
mongers. Boiling water also will immediately cause vitality to
cease, and is perhaps the most humane and ready method of
destroying the fish.

Lobsters, prawns, and shrimps, are very stiff when freshly
boiled, and the tails turn strongly inwards; when these relax,
and the fish are soft and watery, they are stale; and the smell
will detect their being so instantly even if no other symptoms of
it be remarked. If bought alive, lobsters should be chosen by
their weight and “ liveliness.” ‘The hen lobster is preferred for
. Sauce and soups, on account of the coral; but the flesh of the
male is generally considered of finer flavour for eating. ‘The
vivacity of their leaps will show when prawns and shrimps are
fresh from the sea.

Oysters should close forcibly on the knife when they are
opened: if the shells are apart ever so little they are losing

eir condition, and when they remain far open the fish are
dead, and fit only to be thrown away. Small plump natives are
very preferable to the larger and coarser kinds.

TO CLEAN FISH.

Let this be done always with the most scrupulous nicety, for
nothing can more effectually destroy the appetite, or uzsgrace
the cook, than fish sent to table imperfectly cleaned. Handle it
lightly, and never throw it roughly about, so as to bruise it;
wash it well, but do not leave it longer in the water than is
necessary, for fish, like meat, loses its flavour from being soaked.
When the scales are to be removed, lay the fish flat upon its
side, and hold it firmly with the left hand, while they are
scraped off with the right; turn it, and when both sides are
done, pour or pump sufficient water over to float off all the
loose seales ; then proceed to open and empty it. Be sure that
not the slightest particle of offensive matter be left in the
inside; wash out the blood entirely, and scrape or brush it
away, if needful, from the back-bone. This may easily be
accomplished, without opening the fish so much as to render it
unsightly when it is sent to table. The red mullet is dressed

hot ee gaps
i 4. ~ a

48 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II.

without being emptied, and smelts are drawn at the gills. When
the scales are left on, the outside of the fish should be well
washed and wiped with a coarse cloth, drawn gently from the
head to the tail. Hels, to be wholesome, should be skinned, but
they are sometimes dressed without; boiling water should then
be poured upon them, and they should be left in it from five to
ten minutes, before they are cut up. The dark skin of the
sole must be stripped off when it is fried, but it must be left on,
like that of a turbot, when the fish is boiled, and it should be
oars with the white side upwards. Whitings are skinned, .
‘dipped usually mto egg and bread-crumbs, when they

are to be fried; but for boiling or broiling, the skin must be
left, on.

TO KEEP FISH.

We find that all the smaller kinds of fish keep best if emptied
and cleaned as soon as they are brought in, then wiped gently
as dry as they can be, and hung separately by the head on the
hooks in the ceiling of a cool larder, or in the open air when
the weather will allow. When there is danger of their being
attacked by flies, a wire safe, placed in a strong draught of air,
is better adapted to the purpose. Soles in winter will remain
good a couple of days when thus prepared ; and even whitings
and mackerel may be kept so without losing any of their excel-
lence. Salt may be rubbed slightly over cod fish, and well
along the back-bone, but it injures the flavour of salmon, the
inside of which may be rubbed with vinegar, and peppered in-
stead. When excessive sultriness renders all of these modes
unavailing, the fish must at once be partially cooked to preserve
it, but this should be avoided if possible, as it is very rarely so
good when this method is resorted to.

TO SWEETEN TAINTED FISH.

The application of the pyroligneous,acid will effect this when
the taint is but slight. A wineglassful, mixed with two of
water, may be poured over the fish, and rubbed upon the parts
more particularly requiring it; it must then be left for some
minutes untouched, and afterwards washed in several waters,
and soaked until the smell of the acid is no longer perceptible.
The chloride of soda,* from its powerful anti-putrescent pro-

* The reader will be sure to obtain the best preparation of the chloride of
soda, by ordering Beaufoy’s, which, with the directions for its use, may be pro-
cured at any druggist’s in sealed quart bottles, at three and sixpence each. It is
better adapted to delicate purposes than the chloride of lime, We would also
recommend the use of Beaufoy’s pyroligneous acid.

oe, 1) te eS ee Cee ee ee ee § btn it
eran ay righ, ee sia’

is,

CHAP. I. | ‘FISH. AQ

perties, will have more effect when the fish is in a worse
state. It should be applied in the same manner, and will not at
all injure the flavour of the fish, which is not fit for food
when it cannot be perfectly purified by either of these means.
The chloride may be diluted more or less, as occasion may
require.
BRINE FOR BOILING FISH.

Fish is exceedingly insipid if sufficient salt be‘not mixed with

the water in which it is boiled, but the precise quantity required

- for it will depend, in some measure, upon the kind of salt which

is used. Fine common salt is that for which our directions are
given; but when the Maldon salt, which is very superior in
strength, as well as in its other qualities, is substituted for it, a
smaller quantity must be allowed. About four ounces to the
gallon of water will be sufiicient for small fish in general; an
additional ounce, or rather more, will not be too much for cod
fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, and shrimps; and salmon will
require eight ounces, as the brine for this fish should be strong :
the water should always be perfectly well skimmed from the
moment the scum begins to form upon the surface.

Mackerel, whiting, and other small fish, 4 ozs. of salt to a
gallon of water. Cod fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, shrimps, 5
to 6 ozs. Salmon, 8 ozs. .

TO RENDER BOILED FISH FIRM.

Put a small bit of saltpetre with the salt into the water
in which it is boiled: a quarter ounce will be sufficient for a
gallon.

TO KEEP FISH HOT FOR TABLE.

Never leave it in the water after it is done; but if it cannot
pe sent to table as soon as it is ready to serve, lift it out, lay the
fish-plate into a large and very hot dish, and set it across
the fish-kettle; just dip a clean cloth into the boiling water, and
spread it upon the fish; place a tin cover over it, and let it
remain so until two or three minutes before it is wanted, then
remove the cloth, and put the fish back into the kettle for an
instant that it may be as hot as possible; drain, dish, and serve
it immediately; the water should be kept boiling the whole
time.

TO BOIL A TURBOT.
In season all the year.

fine turbot, in full season, and well served, is one of the
EB

‘ee ee

50 MODERN COOKERY. [cmaP. 11.

most delicate and delicious fish that can be sent to table; but it
is generally an expensive dish, and its excellence so much depends
on the manner in which it is dressed, that great care should be
taken to prepare it properly. After it is emptied, wash the
inside until it is perfectly cleansed, and rub lightly a little fine
salt over the outside, as this will render less washing and hand-
ling necessary, by at once taking off the slime; change the
water several times, and when the fish is as clean as it is possible
to render it, draw a sharp knife through the thickest part of the —
middle of the back nearly through to the bone. Never cut off
the fins of a turbot when preparing it for table, and remember
that it is the dark side of the fish in which the incision is to be
made, to prevent the skin of the white side from cracking.
Dissolve in a well-cleaned turbot, or common fish-kettle, in as
much cold spring water as will cover the fish abundantly, salt,
in the proportion of four ounces to the gallon, and a morsel of
saltpetre; wipe the fish-plate with a clean cloth, lay the turbot
upon it with the white side upwards, place it in the kettle, bring
it slowly to boil, and clear off the scum thoroughly as it rises,
Let the water only just simmer until the fish is done, then lift
it out, drain, and slide it gently on to a very hot dish, with a hot
napkin neatly arranged over the drainer. Send it immediately
to table with rich lobster sauce, good plain melted butter, and a
dish of dressed cucumber. For a simple dinner, anchovy, or
shrimp-sauce is sometimes served with a small turbot. Should
there be any cracks in the skin of the fish, branches of curled
parsley may be laid lightly over them, or part of the inside
coral of the lobster, rubbed through a fine hair-sieve, may be
sprinkled over the fish; but it is better without either, when it
is very white, and unbroken. When garnishings are in favour,
a slice of lemon and a tuft of curled parsley, may be placed
alternately round the edge of the dish. A border of fried
smelts, or of fillets of soles, was formerly served, in general,
round a turbot, and is always a very admissible addition, though
no longer so fashionable as it was. From fifteen to twenty
minutes will boil a moderate-sized fish, and from twenty to
shirty a large one; but as the same time will not always be
sufficient for a fish of the same weight, the cook must watch it
attentively, and lift it out as soon as its appearance denotes its
deing done.
Moderate sized-turbot, 15 to 20 minutes. Large, 20 to 30
minutes. Longer, if of unusual size.
Obs —A lemon gently squeezed, and rubbed over the fish, is
thought to preserve its whiteness. Some good cooks still put

eee cme
‘els ean Be
cen

SY ;

ie” 4 , , at
—
{

CHAP. II. ] FISH. — 5]

turbot into boring water, and to prevent its breaking, tie it with
a cloth tightly to the fish-plate; but cold water seems better
adapted to it, as it is desirable that it should be gradually heated
through before it begins to boil.

TUREOT A LA CREME.

Raise carefully from the bones the flesh of a cold turbot, and
clear it from the dark skin; cut it into small squares, and put it
into an exceedingly clean stewpan or saucepan; then make and

_ pour upon it the cream-sauce of Chapter IV., or make as much

as may be required for the fish by the same receipt, with equal

' proportions of milk and cream, and a little additional flour.

Heat the turbot slowly in the sauce, but do not allow it to boil,
and send it very hot to table. The white skin of the fish is
not usually added to this dish, and it is of better appearance
without it; but for a family dinner, it may be left on the flesh,
when it is much liked. No acid must be stirred to the sauce
until the whole is ready for table.

TURBOT AU BECHAMEL, OR, IN BECHAMEL SAUCE.

Prepare the cold turbot as for the preceding receipt, but leave
no portion of the skin with it. Heat it in a rich bechamel sauce,
and serve it in a vol-au-vent, or in a deep dish, with a border
of fried bread cut in an elegant form, and made with one dark,
and one light sippet, placed alternately. The surface may be
covered with a half-inch layer of delicately fried bread-crumbs,
perfectly well drained and dried; or they may be spread over
the fish without being fried, then moistened with clarified butter,
and browned with a salamander.

TO BOIL A JOHN DORY.

In best season from Michaelmas to Christmas, but good all the year.

The John Dory, though of uninviting appearance is consi-
dered by some persons as the most delicious fish that appears
at table; in the general-estimation, however, it ranks next to
the turbot, from which it may be distinguished by its yellow-
grey colour as well as by the long filaments on the back, and
a general thickness of form. It is dressed in precisely the same —
manner and served with the same sauces.

TO BOIL A BRILL.

Proceed exactly as for a turbot; sprinkle lobster coral passed
through a fine sieve, over the brill after it is dished, and send

52 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. It.
lobster sauce and plain melted butter to table with it. This
fish, in delicacy and excellence, is little inferior to turbot.

TO BOIL SALMON.

In full season from May to August: may be had much earlier, but is searce
and dear. ;

To preserve the fine colour of this fish, and to set the curd

when it is quite freshly caught, it is usual to put it into bodling,
instead of into cold water. Scale, empty, and wash it with the

greatest nicety, and be especially careful to cleanse all the blood

from the inside. Stir into the fish-kettle eight ounces of com-
mon salt to the gallon of water, let it boil quickly for a minute
or two, take off all the scum, put in the salmon and boil it mo-
derately fast, if it be small, but more gently should it be very
thick; and assure yourself that it is quite sufficiently done be-
fore it is sent to table, for nothing can be more distasteful, even
to the eye, than fish which is under dressed. ,

From two to three pounds of the thick part of a fine salmon
will require half an hour to boil it, but eight or ten pounds will
be done enough in little more than double that time; less, in
proportion to its weight, should be allowed for a small fish, or
for the thin end of a large one. Do not allow the salmon to re-
main in the water after it is ready to serve, or both its flavour
and appearance will be injured. Dish it on a hot napkin, and
send dressed cucumber, and anchovy, shrimp, or lobster sauce,
and a tureen of plain melted butter to table with it.

-To each gallon water, 8 ozs. salt. Salmon, 2 to 3 Ibs.
(thick); 3} hour: 8 to 10 lbs., 14 hour: small, or thin fish, less
time.

Obs.—A fashionable mode of serving salmon at the present
day is to divide the larger portion of the body into three equal
parts ; to boil them in water, or in a marinade; and to serve
them dished in a line, but not close together, and covered with
a rich Genevese sauce: it appears to us that the skin should be
stripped from any fish over which the sauce is poured, but in
this case it is not customary. wt

CRIMPED SALMON.

Cut into slices an inch and a half, or two inches thick, the
body of a salmon quite newly caught ; throw them into strong ~
salt and water as they are done, but do not let them soak in it ;
wash them well, lay them on a fish-plate, and put them into
fast-boiling water, salted, and well skimmed. In from ten to
fifteen minutes they will be done. Dish them on a napkin, and —

ere

omar. 11.] FISH. 53
send them very hot to table with lobster sauce, and plain melted
butter ; or with the caper fish-sauce of Chapter IV. - The water
should be salted as for salmon boiled in the ordinary way, and
the scum should be cleared off with great care after the fish
is in.

In boiling water, 10 to 15 minutes.

SALMON A LA ST. MARCEL.

_ Separate some cold boiled salmon into flakes, and free them

entirely from the skin; break the bones, and boil them in a
pint of water for half an hour. Strain off the liquor, put it into
a clean saucepan and stir into it by degrees when it begins to
boil quickly, two ounces of butter mixed with a large teaspoon-
ful of flour, and when the whole has boiled for two or three mi-
nutes add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, one of good
mushroom catsup, half as much lemon-juice or Chili vinegar, a
half saltspoonful of pounded mace, some cayenne, and a very
little salt. Shell from halt to a whole pint of shrimps, add
them to the salmon, and heat the fish very slowly in the sauce
by the side of the fire, but do not allow it to boil. When it is
very hot, dish, and send it quickly to table. French cooks,
when they re-dress fish or meat of any kind, prepare the flesh
with great nicety, and then put it into a stewpan, and pour the
sauce upon it, which is, we think, better than the more usual
English mode of laying it into the boiling sauce. The cold
salmon may also be re-heated in the cream sauce of Chapter IV.
or in the Maitre d’ Hotel sauce which follows it; and will be
found excellent with either. This receipt is for a moderate
sized dish.

Obs.—We regret that we cannot give insertion to a larger
number of receipts for dressing this truly excellent fish, which
answers for almost every mode of cookery. It may be fried in:
cutlets, broiled, baked, roasted, or stewed ; served in a common, ©
or in a raised pie, or in a potato-pasty; in a salad, in jelly; —
' collared, smoked, or pickled ; and will be found good prepared _
by any of these processes. A rather full seasoning of savoury
herbs is thought to correct. the effect of the natural richness of —
the salmon. For directions to broil, bake, or roast it, the reader
is referred to Chapter VII.

TO BOIL COD FISH.
In highest season from October to the beginning of February; in perfection
about Christmas.

When this fish is large the head and shoulders are sufficient

54 MODFRN COOKERY. [ CHAP. It.)

for a handsome dish, and they contain all the choicer portion of
it, though not so much substantial eating, as the middle of the
body, which, in consequence, is generally preferred to them by
the frugal housekeeper. Wash the fish, and cleanse the inside,
and the back-bone in particular, with the most scrupulous care ;
lay it into the fish kettle and cover it well with cold water mixed
with five ounces of salt to the gallon, and about a quarter ounce
of saltpetre to the whole. Place it over a moderate fire, clear
off the scum perfectly, and let the fish boil gently until it is
done. Drain it well* and dish it carefully upon a gvery hot
napkin with the liver and the roe as a garnish. To these are
usually added tufts of lightly scraped horse-radish round the
edge. Serve well made oyster sauce and plain melted butter
with it; or anchovy sauce when oysters cannot be procured.
The cream sauce of Chapter IV. is also an appropriate one for
this fish.
Moderate sized, 20 to 30 minutes. Large, 3 to 3 hour.

SLICES OF COD FISH FRIED.

Cut the middle or tail of the fish into slices nearly an inch
thick, season them with salt and white pepper or cayenne, flour
them well, and fry them of a clear equal brown on both sides ;
drain them on a sieve before the fire, and serve them on a well-
heated napkin, with plenty of crisped parsley round them. Or,
dip them into beaten egg, and then into fine crumbs mixed with
a seasoning of salt and pepper (some cooks add one of minced
herbs also), before they are fried. Send melted butter and an-
chovy sauce to table with them.

8 to 12 minutes.

Obs.—This is a much better way of dressing the thin part of
_ the fish than boiling it, and as it is generally cheap, it makes
thus an economical, as well as a very good dish: if the slices
are lifted from the frying-pan into a good curried gravy, and
left in it by the side of the fire for a few minutes before they
are sent to table, they will be found excellent.

STEWED COD.

Put into boiling water, salted as usual, about three pounds
of fresh cod fish cut into slices an inch and a half thick,
and boil them gently for five minutes; lift them out, and let
them drain. Have ready-heated in a wide stewpan nearly a

* This should be done by setting the fish-plate across the kettle for a minute
or two.

bs sas Co I ee
} 7 Bee :
a , }

ao.

- ORAP. II] FISH. 55

pint of veal gravy or of very good broth, lay in the fish, and
stew it for five minutes, then add four tablespoonsful of extremely
fine bread-crumbs, and simmer it for three minutes longer. Stir
well into the sauce a large teaspoonful of arrow-root quite free
from lumps, a fourth part as much of mace, something less of
cayenne, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, mixed with
a glass of white wine and a dessertspoonful of lemon juice. Boil
the whole for a couple of minutes, lift out the fish carefully with
a slice, pour the sauce over, and serve it quickly.

Cod fish, 3 Ibs.: boiled 5 minutes. Gravy, or strong broth,

_ nearly 1 pint: 5 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 4 tablespoonsful: 3

minutes. Arrow-root, 1 large teaspoonful ; mace, 4 teaspoon-
ful; less of cayenne; essence of anchovies, 1 tablespoonful ;
lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful ; sherry or Madeira, 1 wineglass-
ful: 2 minutes.

Obs.—A dozen or two of oysters, bearded, and added with
their strained liquor to this dish two or three minutes before it
is served, will, to many tastes, vary it very agreeably.

STEWED COD FISH, IN BROWN SAUCE.

Slice the fish, take off the skin, flour it well, and fry it
quickly a fine brown; lift it out and drain it on the back of a
sieve, arrange it in a clean stewpan, and pour in as much good
brown gravy, boiling, as will nearly cover it; add from one to
two glasses of port wine, or rather more of claret, a dessert-
spoonful of Chili vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon, and some
cayenne, with as much salt as may be needed. Stew the fish
very softly until it just begins to break, lift it carefully with a
slice into a very hot dish, stir into the gravy an ounce and
a half of butter, smoothly kneaded with a large teaspoonful of
flour, and a little pounded mace, give the sauce a minute’s boil,
pour it over the fish, and serve it immediately. The wine may
be omitted, good shin of beef stock substituted for the gravy,
and a teaspoonful of soy, one of essence of anchovies, and two
tablespoonsful of Harvey’s sauce added to flavour it.

TO BOIL SALT FISH.

When very salt and dry, this must be long-soaked before it
is boiled, but it is generally supplied by the fishmongers nearly
or quite ready to dress. When it is not so, lay it for a night
into a large quantity of cold water, then let it lie exposed to the
air for some time, then again put it into water, and continue
thus until it is well softened. Brush it very clean, wash it
thoroughly, and put it with abundance of cold water into the

| aoe ee
56 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. 11.

fish kettle, place it near the fire and let it heat very slowly
indeed. Keep it just on the point of simmering, without allow-
ing it ever to boil (which would render it hard,) from three
quarters of an hour to a full hour, according to its weight;
should it be quite small and thin, less time will be sufficient for
it; but by following these directions, the fish will be almost as
good as if it were fresh. The scum should be cleared off with
great care from the beginning. Egg sauce and boiled parsneps
are the usual accompaniments to salt fish, which should be
dished upon a hot napkin, and which is sometimes also thickly
strewed with chopped eggs.

SALT FISH.
(A la Méitre @ Hotel.)

Boil the fish by the foregoing receipt, or take the remains of
that which has been served at table, flake it off clear from the
bones, and strip away every morsel of the skin; then lay it into
a very clean saucepan or stewpan, and pour upon it the sharp
Maitre d’ Hotel sauce of Chapter IV.; or, dissolve gently two or
three ounces of butter with four or five spoonsful of water, and —
a half-teaspoonful of flour; add some pepper or cayenne, very
little salt, and a dessertspoonful or more of minced parsley. Heat
the fish slowly yuite through in either of these sauces, and toss
or stir it until the whole is well mixed; if the second be used,
-add the juice of half a lemon, or a small quantity of Chili
vinegar, just before it is taken from the fire. The fish thus —
prepared may be served in a deep dish, with a border of mashed
parsneps or potatoes.

TO BOIL CODS SOUNDS.

Should they be highly salted, soak them for a night, and on.
the following day, rub off entirely the discoloured skin ; wash
them well, lay them into plenty of cold milk and water, and
boil them gently from thirty to forty minutes, or longer, should
they not be quite tender. Clear off the scum as it rises with
great care, or it will sink, and adhere to the sounds, of which
the appearance will then be spoiled. Drain them well, dish
them on a napkin, and send egg sauce and plain melted butter
to table with them.

TO FRY CODS’ SOUNDS IN BATTER.
Boil them as directed above, until they are nearly done, then
lift them out, lay them on to a drainer, and let them remain till
they are cold; cut them across in strips of an inch deep, curl

: Hi en at vee aah a } Va i : “f y bet’ ees

Pu! th 5 ee
oe

CUAP. I1.]. Meiers 0! 57

them round, dip them into a good French or English batter,
fry them of a fine pale brown, drain and dry them well,
dish them on a hot napkin, and garnish them with crisped
parsley.

TO FRY SOLES.
In season all the year.

All fish to fry well must be not only fresh but perfectly
free from moisture, particularly when they are to be dressed
with egg and bread-crumbs, as these will not otherwise adhere
to them. Empty, skin, and wash the soles with extreme nicety,
from one to two hours before they are wanted for table; and
after having cleansed and wiped them very dry, both inside and
out replace the roes, fold and press them gently in a soft
clean cloth, and leave them wrapped in it until it is time to fry
them ; or suspend them singly upon hooks in a current of cool
air, which is perhaps the better method of proceeding when it
can be done conveniently. Cover them equally in every part,
first with some beaten egg, and then with fine dry crumbs of
bread.* Melt in a large and exceedingly clean frying pan, over
a brisk and clear fire, as much very pure-flavoured lard as will
float the fish, and let it be sufficiently hot before they are laid in
to brown them quickly ; for if this be neglected it will be impos-
sible to render them crisp or dry. When the fat ceases to bubble,
throw in a small bit of bread, and if it takes a good colour im-
mediately the soles may be put in without delay. An ex-
perienced cook will know, without this test, when it is at the
proper point ; but the learner will do better to avail herself of
it until practice and observation shall have rendered it unneces-
sary to her. Before the fish are laid into the pan, take them by
the head and shake the loose crumbs from them. When they
are firm, and of a fine amber-colour on one side, turn them
with care, passing a slice under them and a fork through the
heads, and brown them on the other. Lift them out, and
either dry them well on a soft cloth laid upon a sieve reversed,
before the fire, turning them often, or press them lightly in
hot white blotting paper. Dish them on a drainer covered with
a hot napkin and send them to table without delay with shrimp
or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.

* The crumbs should be of a stale loaf, finely grated and shaken through a
cullender, then well dried in a very slack oven or at a distance from a clear fre,
and allowed to become cold before they are used: they are still better when made
of bread which has Leen rendered crisp quite through, and then beaten small, as
directed in Chapter IV.

58 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II.

. Very small soles will be done in six minutes, and large ones
in about ten. They may be floured and fried, without being
egged and crumbed, but this is not a very usual mode of serv-

ing them. “a
Small soles, 6 minutes; large, about 10 minutes.

TO BOIL SOLES.

The flesh of a fine fresh sole, when boiled with care, is
remarkably sweet and delicate: if very large it may be dressed
and served as turbot, to which it will be found little inferior.
Clean and wash it thoroughly, but do not skin, it; cover it -
plentifully with cold water, throw in a handful of salt and a
morsel of saltpetre, about half the size of a hazel nut. When
the water boils skim it well, and let the fish simmer very softly
from five to ten minutes. Soles of moderate size should be laid
into warm water, and will be sufficiently done with five
minutes’ simmering: these should be freed from the dark skin
before they are dressed, and dished with the white skin upwards.
Send shrimp, lobster, or anchovy sauce and dressed cucumber
to table with them.

Very large sole, 5 to 10 minutes; moderate sized, 4 to 6
minutes.

FILLETS OF SOLES.

The word /illet, whether applied to fish, poultry, game, or
butcher’s meat, means simply the flesh of either (or of certain
portions of it), raised clear from the bones in a handsome form,
and divided or not, as the manner in which it is to be served
may require. It is an elegant mode of dressing various kinds of
fish, and even those which are not the most highly esteemed,
afford an excellent dish when thus prepared. Soles to be filleted
with advantage should be large; the flesh may then be divided ©
down the middle of the back, next, separated from the fins, and
with a very sharp knife raised clean from the bones.* When
thus prepared, the fillets may be divided, trimmed into a good
form, egged, covered with fine crumbs, fried in the usual way,
and served with the same sauces as tlhe whole fish ; or each fillet
may be rolled up, in its entire length if very small, or after
being once divided if large, and fastened with a slight twine,
or a short thin skewer; then egged, crumbed, and fried in

* A celebrated French cook gives the fullowing instructions for raising these

fillets :—“ Take them up by running your knife first between the bones and the

' flesh, then between the skin and the fillet ; by leaning pretty hard on the tabie
they will come off very neatly.”

> ta ee A

CHAP. It.] FISH. 59

plenty of boiling lard; or merely well floured and fried
from eight to ten minutes. When the fish are not very
large, they are sometimes boned without being parted in the
middle, and each side is rolled from the tail to the head, after
being first spread with pounded shrimps mixed with a third of
their volume of butter, a few bread-crumbs, and a high season-
ing of mace and cayenne; or with pounded lobster mixed with
a large portion of the coral, and the same seasoning, and propor-
tion of butter as the shrimps; then laid into a dish, with the
ingredients directed for the soles au plat ; well covered with
- crumbs of bread-and clarified butter, and baked from twelve to
sixteen minutes, or until the crumbs are coloured to a fine
brown in a moderate oven.

The fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of
uniform size, lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne, salt and
flour, and fried in butter over a brisk fire; then well drained,
and sauced with a good bechamel, flavoured with a teaspoonful
of minced parsley.

BAKED SoLEs. (Soles au plat.) coon.

Clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter, and pour it
into the dish in which the fish are to be served ; add to it a little
salt, some cayenne, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and from
one to two glasses of sherry, or of any other dry white wine ; lay
in a couple of fine soles which have been well cleaned and wiped
very dry, strew over them a thick layer of fine bread-crumbs,
moisten them with clarified butter, set the dish into a moderate
oven, and bake the fish a quarter of an hour. A layer of
shrimps placed between the soles is a great improvement; and
we would also recommend a little lemon-juice to be mixed with
the sauce.

Baked, 15 minutes.

Obs.—The soles are, we think, better without the wine in this
receipt. They require but a small portion of liquid, which
might be supplied by a little additional butter, a spoonful of
water or pale gravy, the lemon-juice, and store-sauce. Minced
parsley may be mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked.

SOLES STEWED IN CREAM.

Prepare some very fresh middling sized soles with exceeding
nicety, put them into boiling water slightly salted, and simmer
them for two minutes only ; lift them out, and let them drain ;
lay them into a wide stewpan with as much sweet rich cream as”
will nearly cover them ; add a good seasoning of pounded mace,

60 . MODERN COOKERY:

cayenne, and salt; stew the fish softly from six to ten minutes,
or until the flesh parts readily from the bones; dish them, stir the
juice of half a lemon to the sauce, pour it over the soles, and
send them immediately ‘to table. Some lemon-rind may be
boiled in the cream, if approved; and a small teaspoonful of
arrow-root, very smoothly mixed with a little milk, may be
stirred to the sauce (should it require thickening) before the
lemon-juice is added. Turbot and brill also may be dressed by

this receipt, time, proportioned to their size, being of course.

allowed for them.

Soles, 3 or 4: boiled in water 2 minutes. Cream, 3 to whole
pint ; salt, mace, cayenne: fish stewed, 6 to 10 minutes. Juice
of half a lemon.

Obs.—In Cornwall the fish is laid at once into thick clotted
cream, and stewed entirely in it ;-but this method gives to the
sauce, which ought to be extremely delicate, a coarse fishy
flavour which the previous boil in water prevents.

At Penzance, grey mullet, after being scaled, are divided in the
middle, just covered with cold water, and softly boiled, with the
addition of branches of parsley, pepper, and salt, until the fiesh
of the back parts easily from the bone; clotted cream, minced
parsley, and lemon-juice are then added to the sauce, and the
mullet are dished with the heads and tails laid even to the thick
parts of the back, where the fish were cut asunder. Hake, too,
is there divided at every joint (having previously been scaled),
dipped into egg, then thickly covered with fine bread-crumbs
mixed with plenty of minced parsley, and fried a fine brown.

TO FRY WHITINGS.
In full season from Michaelmas to beginning of February.

Clean, skin, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fasten their
tails to their mouths, brush them equally over with beaten eggs,
and cover them with the finest bread-crumbs, mixed with a little
flour ; fry them a clear golden brown in plenty of boiling lard,
drain and dry them well, dish them on a hot napkin and serve
them with good melted butter, and. the sauce cruets, or with
well made shrimp or anchovy sauce. A small half-teaspoonful
of salt should be beaten up with the eggs used in preparing the
whitings: two will be sufficient for half a dozen fish.

5 to 8 minutes, according to their size.

FILLETS OF WHITINGS.

Empty and wash thoroughly, but do not skin the fish. Take
off the flesh on both sides close to the bones, passing the knife

[omar 1.

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Pats i FU Sieg eee ree
. " Ls ry. or }

CHAP, 11. ] FISH. 61

from the tail to the head; divide each side in two, trim the
fillets into good shape, fold them in a cloth, that the moisture
may be well absorbed from them; dip them into, or draw them
through, some beaten egg, then dip them into fine crumbs mixed
with a small portion of flour, and fry them a fine light brown, in
lard or clarified butter ; drain them well, press them in white
blotting-paper, dish them one over the other in a circle, and
send the usual sauce to table with them. The fillets may also
be broiled after being dipped into eggs seasoned with salt and
pepper, then into crumbs of bread, then next into clarified butter,
and a second time into the bread-crumbs (or, to shorten the
process, a portion of clarified butter may be mixed with the eggs
at first), and served with good melted butter, or thickened veal
gravy, seasoned with cayenne, lemon-juice, and chopped parsley.
Five minutes will fry the fillets, even when very large: rather
more time will be required to broil them.

TO BOIL WHITINGS.
(French Receipt.)

Having scraped, cleaned, and wiped them, lay them on a
fish-plate, and put them into water at the point of boiling;
throw in a handful of salt, two bay leaves, and plenty of
parsley, well washed, and tied together; let the fish just semmer
rom five to ten minutes, and watch them closely that they may
not be over-done. Serve parsley and butter with them, and
ae in making it the liquor in which the whitings have been
oiled.

Just simmered from 5 to 10 minutes.

BAKED WHITINGS A LA FRANCAISE.

Proceed with these exactly as with baked soles, page 59, or, _
pour a little clarified butter into a deep dish, and strew it rather
thickly with finely-minced mushrooms, mixed with a teaspoonful
of parsley, and (when the flavour is liked, and considered appro-
priate) with an eschalot or two, or the white part of a few green
onions, also chopped very small. On these place the fish, after
they have been scaled, emptied, thoroughly washed, and wiped
dry : season them well with salt, and white pepper, or cayenne;
sprinkle more of the herbs upon them ; pour gently from one to
two glasses of light white wine into the dish, cover the whitings
with a thick layer of fine crumbs of bread, sprinkle these plenti-
fully with clarified butter,and bake the fish from fifteen to twenty
minutes. Send a cut lemon only to table with them. When
the wine is not liked, a few spoonsful of pale veal gravy can be

62 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. 11.

can be used instead; or a larger quantity of clarified butter,

with a tablespoonful of water, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle
and of mushroom catsup, and a few drogs of soy.
15 to 20 minutes. |

TO BOIL)MACKEREL.
In full season in May, June, and July; may be had also in eazly spring.
Open the fish sufficiently to admit of the insides being per-
fectly cleansed, but not more than is necessary for this purpose ;
empty them with care, lay the roes apart, and wash both them
and the mackerel delicately clean. It is customary now to lay
these, and the greater number of other fish as well, into cold
water when they are to be boiled; formerly all were plunged
at once into fast-boiling water. for such as are small and deli-
cate, it should be’ warm, but not scalding; they should be
brought gently to a soft boil, and simmered until they are done ;
the scum should be cleared off as it rises, and the usual propor-
tion of salt stirred into the water before the mackerel are put in.
“The roes are commonly replaced in the fish, but as they some-
times require more boiling than the mackerel themselves, it is

better, when they are very large, to lay them upon the drainer.

by their sides. From fifteen to twenty minutes will generally
be sufficient to boil a full-sized mackerel: some will be done in
less time, but they must be watched, and lifted out as soon as
the tails split, and the eyes are starting.
Dish them on a napkin, and send.fennel or gooseberry sauce
to table with them, and plain melted butter also. .
Small mackerel, 10 to. 15 minutes; large, 15 to 20 minutes.

TO BAKE MACKEREL.

After they have been cleaned and well washed, wipe them
very dry, fill the insides with the forcemeat, No. 1 of Chapter
VI. sew them up, arrange them, with the roes, closely together
in a coarse baking-dish, flour them lightly, strew a little fine
salt over, and stick bits of butter upon them; or pour some
equally over them, after having just dissolved it in a small
saucepan. Half an hour in a moderate oven will bake them.
Oyster forcemeat is always appropriate for any kind of fish
which is in season, while the oysters are so; but the mackerel
are commonly served, and are very good with that which we
have named. Lift them carefully into a hot dish after they are
taken from the oven, and send melted butter, and the sauce
cruets to table with them.

4 hour.

CHAP. It.] ON a yh 63

Obs.—The dish in which they are baked, should be buttered
before they are laid in. ;

FRIED MACKEREL.

(Common French Receipt.)

After the fish have been emptied and washed extremely clean,
cut off the heads and tails, split the bodies quite open, and take
out the backbones ;* wipe the mackerel very dry, dust fine salt,
and pepper (or cayenne), over them, flour them well, fry them
a fine brown in boiling lard, drain them thoroughly, and serve
them with the following sauce :—Dissolve in a small saucepan
an ounce and a half of butter smoothly mixed with a teaspoon-
ful of flour, some salt, pepper, and cayenne, shake these over a
gentle fire until they are lightly coloured, then add by slow
degrees nearly half a pint of good broth, or gravy, and the juice
of one large lemon: boil the sauce for a couple of minutes, and
serve it very hot. Or, instead of this, add a large teaspoonful
of strong made-mustard, and a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, |
to some thick melted butter, and serve it with the fish. A
spoonful of Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, can be
mixed with this last, at pleasure.

FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
(Fried or Broiled.)

Take off the flesh quite whole on either side, from three fine
mackerel, which have been opened and properly cleaned ; let it
be entirely free from bone, dry it well in a cloth, then divide
each part in two, and dip them into the beaten yolks ofa couple
of eggs, seasoned with salt and white pepper or cayenne ; cover
them equally with fine dry crumbs of bread, and fry them like
soles; or dip them into clarified butter, and then again into the
crumbs, and broil them over a very clear fire of a fine brown.
Dish them in a circle one over the other, and send them to table
with the Maitre d’Hotel sauce of Chapter IV., or with the one
which follows it. The French pour the sauce into the centre of
the dish; but for broiled fillets this is not so well, we think, as
serving it in a tureen. The roes of the fish, after being well
“washed and soaked, may be dressed with them, or they may be
made into patties. Minced parsley can be mixed with the bread-
crumbs when it is liked.

BOILED FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
After having taken off and divided the flesh of the fish, as

* We recommend in preference that the flesh of the fish should be taken off
the bones as in the following receipt.

a twin .
a ae \
A

G4 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP, IL.

above, place it flat in one layer in a wide stewpan or saucepan,
and just cover the fillets with cold water; throw in a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and two or three small sprigs of parsley. Bring the
mackerel slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with care, and

after two or three minutes of slow simmering, try the fillets with |

afork; if the thick part divides with a touch, they are done.
Lift them out cautiously with a slice; drain, and serve them

very hot with good parsley and butter; or strip off the skin

quickly, and pour a Maitre d’ Hotel sauce over them.

MACKEREL BROILED WHOLE.
(An excellent Receipt.)

Empty, and cleanse perfectly a fine and very fresh mackerel,
but without opening it more than is needful; dry it well, either
in a cloth, or by hanging it in a cool air until it is stiff; make,
with a sharp knife, a deep incision the whole length of the fish,
on either side of the back bone, and about half an inch from it,
and with a feather put in a little cayenne and fine salt, mixed
with a few drops of good salad oil or clarified butter. Lay the
mackerel over a moderate fire upon a well heated gridiron,
which has been rubbed with suet; loosen it gently should it
stick, which it will do unless often moved; and when it is
equally done on both sides, turn the back to the fire. About
half an hour will broil it well. If a sheet of thickly-buttered
writing-paper be folded round it, and just twisted at the ends
before it is laid on the gridiron, it will be finer eating than if
exposed to the fire; but sometimes when this is done, the skin
will adhere to the paper, and be drawn off with it, which
injures its appearance. A cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce (see Chap-
ter [V.), may be put into the back before it is sent to table.
This is one of the very best modes of dressing a mackerel, which
in flavour is quite a different fish when thus prepared to one
which is simply boiled. A drop of oil is sometimes passed over
the skin to prevent its sticking to the iron. It may be laid to
the fire after having been merely cut as we have directed, when
it is preferred so.

30 minutes; 25 if small.

MACKEREL STEWED WITH WINE.
(Very good.)

Work very smoothly together a large teaspoonful of flour
with two ounces of butter, put them into a stewpan, and stir or
shake them round over the fire until the butter is dissolved ; add
a quarter-teaspoonful of mace, twice as much salt, and some

eS a ek

CHAP. 11.] BISH 59 | 65

cayenne; pour in by slow degrees three glasses of claret, and
when the sauce boils, lay in a couple of fine mackerel, weil
cleaned, and wiped quite dry; stew them very softly from
fifteen to twenty minutes, and turn them when half done; lift
them out, and dish them carefully; stir a teaspoonful of made-
mustard to the’ sauce, give it a boil, and pour it over the fish.
When more convenient, substitute port wine and a little lemon-
juice, for the claret. . “
Mackerel, 2; flour, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 2 ozs.; seasonin
of salt, mace, and cayenne; claret, 3 glassesful ; made-mustard,
1 teaspoonful: 15 to 20 minutes.

FILLETS OF MACKEREL STEWED IN WINE,
(Hacellent.)

Raise the flesh entire from the bones on either side of the
mackerel, and divide it once, if the fish be small, but cut the
whole into six parts of equal size should they be large. Mix
with flour, and dissolve the butter as in the preceding receipt,
and when it has simmered for a minute throw in the spice, a
little salt, and the thinly pared rind of half a small fresh lemon;
lay in the fillets of fish, shake them over a gentle fire from four
to five minutes, and turn them once in the time; then pour to
them in small portions a couple of large glassesful of port wine,
a tablespoonful of Harvey’s sauce, should it be at hand, a
teaspoonful of soy, and one of lemon-juice; stew the mackerel
very softly until the thinner parts begin to break, lift them out
with care, dish and serve them in their sauce as hot as possible.
We can recommend the dish to our readers as a very excellent
one. A garnish of fried sippets can be placed round the fish at
will. A teaspoonful of made-mustard should be stirred to the
-sauce before it is poured over the fish.

Mackerel, 2; butter, 2 ozs.; flour, 1 teaspoonful; rind of 3
lemon ; salt, cayenne, pounded mace: 2 minutes. Fish, 4 to 5
minutes. Port wine, 2 large glassesful; Harvey’s sauce, 1
tablespoonful ; soy and lemon-juice each, 1 teaspoonful: 4 to 6
minutes. Mustard, 1 teaspoonful.

Obs.—Trout may be dressed by this receipt.

/ TO BOIL HADDOCKS.
In the best season in October, November, and December.

‘Scrape the outsides very clean, open the fish, empty them,
wash the insides thoroughly, take out the gills, curl the had-
docks round, fasten the tails to the mouths, arrange them on a
fish-plate, and lay them into warm water salted as for mackerel,

. F

66 _ MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. 11.
with a very small bit of saltpetre to render them firm. Skim
the water, and simmer them from seven to ten minutes, accord-
ing to their size. Send them very hot to table, with a tureen of —
melted butter, and one of anchovy sauce.

7 to 10 minutes.

Obs.—In Scotland, haddocks are skinned before they are
boiled, and the heads taken off, but we see no advantage in this
mode of dressing them. Whitings, fresh herrings, and codlings, _
may all be dressed by this receipt, the time only being varied —
according to the size of the fish.

BAKED HADDOCKS.

After they have been cleaned, dry them thoroughly, then
bake them, as directed in the common receipt for pike, or fill
them with oyster-forcemeat, or with No. 1. of Chapter IV., if
more convenient, and proceed as for baked mackerel.

20 to 30 minutes; longer if very large.

TO FRY HADDOCKS.

Follow the directions given for fillets of whitings, or should a
more simple method be preferred, clean and dry the fish well,
cut off the heads and tails, take out the backbones, cut each fish
in three, egg and crumb them, fry them in boiling lard a fine
golden brown, and serve them, well drained and dried, with the
same sauces as boiled haddocks.

TO DRESS FINNAN HADDOCKS.

These are slightly salted, and dried. They are excellent
eating, if gently heated through upon the gridiron without
‘being hardened, and are served usually as a relish at the break-
fast or supper table; a feather dipped in oil may be passed over
them before they are laid to the fire.

FRESH HERRINGS.
(Farleigh Receipt.)

’ In season from May to October.

Scale and clean the fish with the utmost nicety, split them
quite open, and wash the insides with particular care ; dry them
well in a cloth, take off the heads and tails, and remove the
backbones; rub the insides with pepper, salt, and a little pounded
mace ; stick small bits of butter on them and skewer two of the
fish together as flat as possible, with the skin of both outside ;
flour, and broil or fry them of a fine brown, and serve them

CHAP. I1.] FISH. 67

with melted butter mixed with a teaspoonful or more of mustard,
some salt, and a little vinegar or lemon-juice.
To broil from 20 to 25 minutes ; to fry about 10 minutes.

TO BOIL PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS.

Plaice in season from May to January; flounders in September, October, and
November.

After having emptied and well-cleaned the fish, make an inci-
sion in the back as directed for turbot; lay them into cold spring
water ; add salt, and saltpetre in the same proportion as for cod
fish, and let them just simmer for four or five minutes after the
water first begins to boil, or longer, should their size require it,
but guard against their being broken. Serve them with plain
melted butter.
4 to 5 minutes; longer if needful.

TO FRY PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS.

Sprinkle them with salt, and let them lie for two or three
hours before they are dressed. Wash and clean them tho-
roughly, wipe them very dry, flour them well, and wipe them
again with a clean cloth; dip them into egg, and fine bread-
crumbs, and fry them in plenty of lard. If the fish be large,
raise the flesh in handsome fillets from the bones, and finish
them as directed for fillets of soles.

Obs.—Plaice is said to be rendered less watery by beating it
gently with a paste-roller before it is cooked. It is very sweet
and pleasant in flavour while it is in the best season, which is
from the end of May to about September. -

TO ROAST, BAKE, OR BROIL RED MULLET.

In best season through the summer: may be had all the year.

First wash, and then dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth,
but neither scale nor open it; wrap it closely in a sheet of
thickly buttered paper, tie this securely at the ends, and over
the mullet with packthread, and roast it in a Dutch oven, or
broil it over a clear and gentle fire, or bake it in a moderate
oven : from twenty to thirty minutes will be sufficient generally
to dress it in either way, if it be only of moderate size. For
sauce, put into a little good melted butter the liquor which has
flowed from fish, a small dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies,
some cayenne, a glass of port wine, or claret, and a little lemon-
juice. Remove the packthread, and send the mullet to table in

68 MODERN COOKERY. [cmar. 1.

the paper case. This is the usual mode of serving it; but it is
dished without the paper, for dinners of high taste.
20 to 30 minutes.

TO BOIL GREY MULLET.

This fish varies so much in size and quality, that it is difficult —
to give exact directions for the time of cooking it. When quite
young and small, it may be boiled by the receipt for whitings,
haddocks, and other fish of about their size; but at its finest
growth it must be laid into cold water, and managed like larger
fish. We have ourselves partaken of one which was caught
upon our eastern coast, that weighed ten pounds, of which the
flesh was quite equal to that of salmon, but its weight was, we
believe, an unusual one. Anchovy, or caper fish sauce, with
melted butter, may be sent to table with grey mullet.

TO FRY SMELTS..

In season from beginning of November to May.

Smelts when quite fresh have a perfume resembling that of a
cucumber, and a peculiarly delicate and agreeable flavour when
dressed. Draw them at the gills, as they must not be opened ;
wash and dry them thoroughly in a cloth; dip them into beaten
egg-yolk, and then into the finest bread~crumbs, mixed with
a small quantity of flour; fry them of a clear golden brown,
and serve them very crisp and dry, with good melted butter
in a tureen. They are sometimes dipped into batter and then
fried; when this is done, we would recommend for them the
French batter of Chapter IV.

3 to 4 minutes.

BAKED SMELTS.

Prepare them as for frying; pour some clarified butter into
the dish in which they are to be sent to table, arrange them
neatly in it, with the tails meeting in the centre, strew over
them as much salt, mace, and cayenne, mixed, as will season
them agreeably, cover them smoothly with a rather thick
layer of very fine bread-crumbs, moisten them equally with
clarified butter poured through a small strainer, and bake the
fish in a moderately quick oven, until the crumbs are of a fine
light brown. <A glass of sherry, a half-teaspoonful of essence
of anchovies, and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, are some-
times poured into the dish before the smelts are laid in.

About 10 minutes.

CHAP. II. ] FISH. 69

TO DRESS WHITE BAIT.
(Greenwich Receipt.)

In season in July, August, and September.

This delicate little fish requires great care to dress it well.
Do not touch it with the hands, but throw it from your dish or
basket into a cloth, with three or four handsful of flour, and
shake it well; then put it into a bait sieve, to separate it from
the superfluous flour. Have ready a very deep frying-pan,
nearly full of boiling fat, throw in the fish, which will be done
In an instant: they must not, be allowed to take any colour,
for if browned, they are spoiled. Lift them out, and dish
them upon a silver or earthenware drainer, without a napkin,
piling them very high in the centre. Send them to table with
a cut lemon, and slices of brown bread and butter on a plate.

WATER SOUCHY.
(Greenwich Receipt.)

This is a very simple and inexpensive dish, much served at
the regular fish-dinners for which Greenwich is celebrated, as
well as at private tables. It is excellent if well prepared; and
as it may be made with fish of various kinds when they are too
small to present a good appearance, or to be palatable, dressed
in any other way, it is also very economical. Flounders, perch,
tench, and eels, are said to answer best for water souchy ; but
very delicate soles, and several other varieties of small white
fish are often used for it with good effect : it is sometimes made
also with slices of salmon, or of salmon-peel, freed from the
skin.

Throw into rather more than sufficient water to just cover
the quantity of fish required for table from half to three quarters
of an ounce of salt to the quart, a dozen corns of white pepper,
a small bunch of green parsley, and two or three tender parsley-
roots, first cut into inch lengths, and then split to the size of
straws. Simmer the mixture until these last are tender, which
will be in from half to a whole hour; then lay in the fish
delicately cleaned, cleared from every morsel of brown skin,
and divided into equal portions of about two inches in width.
Take off all the scum as it rises, and stew the fish softly from
eight to twelve minutes, watching it that it may not break from
being over-done.

Strew in a couple of minutes before it is dished a large table-
spoonful or more of minced parsley, or some small branches of
the herb boiled very green in a separate saucepan (we prefer

70 MODERN COOKERY. | [[eHap. It.

the latter mode) ; lift out the fish carefully with a slice, and the
parsley roots with it; pour over it the liquor in which it has
been boiled, but leave out the peppercorns. For a superior
water souchy, take all the bones out of the fish, and stew them
down with the inferior portions of it to a strong broth: about
an hour will be sufficient for this. Salt, parsley, and a little
cayenne may be added to it. Strain it off clear through a sieve,
and use it instead of water for the souchy. The juice of half a
good lemon may be thrown into the stew before it isserved. A
deep dish will of course be required for it. The parsley-roots
can be boiled apart when more convenient, but they give an
agreeable flavour when added to the liquor at first. Slices of
brown or white bread and butter in a plate must be sent to
table always with water souchy : the first is usually preferred,
but to suit all tastes some of each may be served with it.

SHAD, TOURAINE FASHION.
(Alose & la mode de Touraine.)
In season in April, May, and early part of June.

Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more
than is needful; fill it either with the forcemeat No. 1, or No.
2 of Chapter VI., and its own roe; then sew it up, or fasten it
securely with very fine skewers, wrap it in a thickly buttered
paper, and broil it gently for an hour over a charcoal fire.
Serve it with caper sauce, or with Chili vinegar and melted
butter.

We are indebted for this receipt to a friend who has been
long resident in Touraine, at whose table the fish is constantly
served, thus dressed, and is considered excellent. It is likewise
often gently stewed in the light white wine of the country,
and served covered with a rich bechamel. Many fish more
common with us than the shad might be advantageously pre-
pared in the same manner. ‘The charcoal fire is not indispen-
sable: any that is entirely free from smoke will answer. We
would suggest as an improvement, that oyster-forcemeat should
be substituted for that which we have indicated, until the oyster
season. ends.

Broiled gently, 1 hour, more or less, according to its size.

| STEWED TROUT. ,
(Good common Receipt.)
In season from May to August.
Melt three ounces of butter in a broad stewpan, or well
' tinned iron saucepan, stir to it a tablespoonful of flour, some

CHAP. I. ]. FISH. 71

mace, cayenne, and nutmég; lay in the fish after it has been
emptied, washed very clean, and wiped perfectly dry; shake it
in the pan, that it may not stick, and when lightly browned on
both sides, pour in three quarters of a pint of good veal stock,
add a small bunch of parsley, one bay leaf, a roll of lemon-peel,
and a little salt: stew the fish very gently from half to three
quarters of an hour, or more, should it be unusually fine. Dish
the trout, skim the fat from the gravy, and pass it through a
hot strainer over the fish, which should be served immediately.
A little acid can be added to the sauce at pleasure, and a glass
of wine when it is considered an improvement. ‘This receipt is
for one large, or for two middling-sized fish. We can recom-
mend it as a good one, from our own experience.

Butter, 3 ozs.; flour, 1 tablespoonful; seasoning of mace,
cayenne, and nutmeg ; trout, 1 large, or 2 moderate sized; veal
stock, # pint; parsley, small faggot; 1 bay-leaf; roll of lemon-
rind; little salt: 4 to ? hour.

Obs.—Trout may be stewed in equal parts of strong veal
gravy, and of red or white wine, without having been previously
browned ; the sauce should then be thickened, and agreeably
flavoured with lemon-juice, and the usual store-sauces, before it
is poured over the fish. They are also good when wrapped in
buttered paper and baked or broiled: if very small, the better
mode of cooking them is to fry them whole. They should never
be plain boiled, as, though a naturally delicious fish, they are
then very insipid.

TO BOIL PIKE.
In best season from September to February.

Take out the gills, empty and clean the fish very thoroughly,
and soak it for half an hour with a cup of vinegar thrown into
as much water as will cover it well, should there be any danger
of its having a muddy taste. Wipe the inside dry, and fill it
with oyster-forcemeat, or with common veal-forcemeat, made
either with butter or with suet (for which see Chapter VL.) ;
curl the fish round, and fasten it with the tail in the mouth, lay
it on the drain, cover it well with cold water, throw in some
salt as soon as it boils, skim it well, and boil the fish gently from
half to a whole hour, according to its size. Some persons prefer
the scales taken off the pike when it is prepared for this mode
of dressing ; and many cooks still put the fish into bowling water,
well salted and skimmed. Serve it with plain melted butter,
the sauce-cruets, and a lemon; or with Dutch, brown caper, or
anchovy sauce.

72 MODERN COOKERY. CHAP. Il.

Moderate sized, } hour; large, 1 hour.

Obs.—We must repeat ‘that it is impossible to give for fish
which varies so much in quality as well as in size, directions for
the exaci time which is required to cook it; a few minutes,
more or less, must often be allowed; and it should always be
watched attentively, and lifted from the water as soon as it is
done.

TO BAKE PIKE.
(Common Receipt.)

Pour warm water over the outside of the fish, and wipe it
very clean with a coarse cloth drawn from the head downwards,
that the scales may not be disturbed; then wash it well in cold
water, empty, and clean the inside with the greatest nicety, fill
it either with the common forcemeat, No. 1, or with No. 4, of
Chapter VIL., sew it up, fasten the tail to the mouth, give ef a
slight dredging of flour, stick small bits of butter thickly over
it, and bake it from half to three quarters of an hour, should it
be of moderate size, and upwards of an hour, if it be large.
Should there not be sufficient sauce with it in the dish, plain
melted butter, and a lemon, or anchovy sauce may be sent to
table with it. When more convenient, the forcemeat may be
omitted, and a little fine salt and cayenne, with some bits of
butter, put into the inside of the fish, which will then require
rather less baking. A buttered paper should always be laid
over it in the oven, should the outside appear: likely to become
too highly coloured, or too dry, before the fish is done; and it
is better to wrap quite small pike in buttered paper at once, be-
fore they are sent to the oven.

Moderate-sized pike, 30 to 45 minutes; large pike, 1 to 1
hour.

TO BAKE PIKE.
(Superior Recerpt.)

Scale and wash the fish, take out the gills, then open it just
sufficiently to allow the ‘inside to be emptied, and perfectly
cleansed, but not more than is necessary for that purpose.
Wipe it as dry as possible in every part, then hang it for an
hour or two on a hook in a cool larder, or wrap it in a soft
cloth. Fill the body with the forcemeat No. 1 or 3, or with
the oyster forcemeat of Chapter VI.; sew it up very ‘securely,
curl it round, and fasten the tail into the mouth with a thin -
skewer, then dip it into the beaten yolks of two or-more eggs,
seasoned with nearly a half-teaspoonful of salt and a little

CHAP. II. | FISH. 73

pepper or cayenne; cover it equally with the finest bread-
crumbs; dip it a second time into the egg and crumbs, then
pour some clarified butter gently over it, through a small
strainer, and send it to a well heated oven for an hour and a
quarter or more, should it be very large, but for less time if it
be only of moderate size. As it is naturally a very dry fish, it
should not be left in the oven after it is thoroughly done, but it
should never be sent to table until it is so. The crumbs of
bread are sometimes mixed with a sufficient quantity of minced
parsley to give the surface of the fish a green hue. Send
pee melted butter, and brown caper, or Dutch sauce to table
with it.

TO BOIL PERCH.

First wipe or wash off the slime, then scrape off the scales,
which adhere rather tenaciously to this fish ; empty and clean
the insides perfectly, take out the gills, cut off the fins, and lay
the perch into equal parts of cold and of boiling water, salted as
for mackerel: from eight to ten minutes will boil them unless
they are very large. Dish them on a napkin, garnish them with
curled parsley, and serve melted butter with them or Maitre
d@ Hotel sauce maigre.

Very good French cooks put them at once into boiling water,
and keep them over a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes.
They dress them also without taking off the scales or fins until
they are ready to serve, when they strip the whole of the skin
off carefully, and stick the red fins into the middle of the backs;
the fish are then covered with the Steward’s sauce, thickened
with eggs.

In warm water, 8 to 10 minutes, in boiling, 12 to 15.

TO FRY PERCH OR TENCH.

Scale, and clean them perfectly ; dry them well, flour and fry
them in boiling lard. Serve plenty of fried parsley round
them.

TO FRY EELS.
In season all the year, but not so well-conditioned in April and May as in
other months.

First kill, then skin, empty, and wash them as clean as
possible; cut them into four-inch lengths, and dry them well in
a soft cloth. Season them with fine salt, and white pepper, or
cayenne, flour them thickly, and fry them a fine brown in

boiling lard; drain and dry them as directed for soles, and send

76 MODERN’ COOKERY. [ CHAP. IT.’

the fish, which after being heated should be laid evenly into the -
shells after they have been split quite through the centre of the
backs in their entire length, without being broken or divided at
the joint, and nicely cleaned. When thus arranged, the lobster
may be thickly covered with well-dried, fine, pale, fried crumbs
of bread; or with unfried ones, which must then be equally
moistened with clarified butter, and browned with a salamander.
A small quantity of salt, mace, and cayenne, may be required
to finish the flavouring of either of these preparations,

BUTTERED CRAB, OR LOBSTER.
In season during the same time as Lobsters.

Slice quite small, or pull into light flakes with a couple of
forks, the flesh of either fish ; put it into a saucepan with a few
bits of good butter lightly rolled in flour, and heat it slowly
over a gentle fire; then pour over and mix thoroughly with it, -
from one to two teaspoonsful of made-mustard smoothly blended
with a tablespoonful or more of common or of Chili vinegar: if
with the former, add to it a tolerable seasoning of cayenne.
Grate in a little nutmeg, and when the whole is well heated
serve it immediately either in the shell of the crab or lobster, or
in scollop-shells, and serve it plain, or with bread-crumbs over,
as in the preceding receipt. A spoonful or so of good meat jelly
is, we think, a great improvement to this dish, for which an ounce
and a half of butter will be quite sufficient.
~ Crabs are boiled like lobsters.

TO BOIL CRAYFISH.

Throw them into water salted as for lobsters, and when they
have boiled a quarter of an hour, take them up, and drain them
well.

15 minutes.

TO BOIL PRAWNS.

Let them have plenty of water salted as for shrimps, put
them in when it is boiling fast, clear off all the scum as it rises,
and in from six to eight minutes turn them into a cullender or
sieve, and drain them well. Spread them on a large dish or on
a soft cloth to cool, and when they are quite cold, dress them
upon a very white napkin neatly arranged upon a saucer or
small basin reversed in a dish. Garnish the base with curled
parsley, and send the prawns to table. They should always be ~
kept in a very cool place until they are served.

6 to 8 minutes,

CHAP. II] ek, WISH of WE

TO BOIL SHRIMPS.

Pick out the large ones, and let the smaller be thrown back
into the sea. Have ready boiling plenty of water, add salt in
the proportion of from five to six ounces to the gallon, take off
the scum, put in the shrimps, and in four or five minutes they
will be done. Pour them into a cullender to drain, then spread
them on a soft cloth to cool; or, dish them directly on a napkin
and send them hot to table.

4 to 5 minutes. —

Obs.—Ready-dressed shrimps or prawns may be preserved fit
for eating at least twelve hours longer than they would other-
wise keep, by throwing them for an instant into boiling salt and
water when they first begin to loose their freshness, and then
draining them as above.

CROUTE AUX CREVETTES, OR SHRIMP-TOAST.

Shell two quarts of fine fresh shrimps, bruise the heads, and
boil them in a pint and a half of water for half an hour; then
strain the liquor through a muslin, or very fine sieve. Set two
ounces of butter over the fire in a saucepan, and when it begins
to simmer, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, a quarter-spoonful of
mace in powder, some cayenne, and a little. grated nutmeg, and
shake the whole often until the flour begins to brown; then
pour in by degrees the liquor in which the heads were stewed,
and when the sauce boils, add the shrimps; as soon as they are
quite hot through, pour them into a toast made of the bottom
crust of a loaf cut more than an inch thick, slightly hollowed
in the inside, and fried in fresh butter a light brown. Veal-
broth is a good substitute for the liquor made of the heads,
which has rather a peculiar flavour. A few drops of essence of
anchoviesare considered by many persons an improvement to it.
A glass of sherry, and a little lemon-juice, are also sometimes
added to the above: the beaten yolks of two or three eggs
stirred in just as it is taken from the fire, will be found a good
addition to it.

SHRIMP-TOAST A LA REINE.

Substitute three quarters of a pint of veal-gravy for the
shrimp-liquor of the preceding receipt ; boil in it for ten minutes
_ the rind of a very small lemon cut extremely thin, put the same
proportion of butter, flour, and spice, as for the Croute aux
Crevettes, but pour the gravy to them before the roux begins
to brown. Have ready-boiling, a quarter-pint of rich cream,

78 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. It. ©

mix it with the other ingredients, put in the shrimps, and add a
squeeze of lemon-juice, stirring the sauce at the same time.
Soak the crust before it is fried, in a little cold cream ; or toast,
and butter it, and then moisten it well with boiling cream.

Veal-gravy, % pint; rind of small lemon: 10 minutes. But-
ter, 2 ozs. ; flour, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 4 spoonful ; little cayenne,
and nutmeg: 5 to 7 minutes. Cream, 4 pint; shrimps, 2 quarts:
1 minute. Squeeze of lemon-juice.

OYSTERS.
- In season from September to April.

The old-fashioned plan of feeding oysters with a sprinkling |
of oatmeal or flour, in addition to the salt and water to which
they were committed, has long been rejected by all genuine
amateurs of these nutritious and excellent fish, who consider the
plumpness which the oysters are supposed to gain from the
process but poor compensation for the flavour which they are
sure to lose. To cleanse them when they first come up from
the beds, and to keep them in good condition for four or five
days, they only require to be covered with cold water, with five
ounces of salt to the gallon dissolved in it before it is poured on
them: this should be changed with regularity every twenty-
four hours. By following this plan with exactness they may be
kept alive from a week to ten days, but will remain in perfect
condition scarcely more than half that time. Oysters should be
eaten always the instant they are opened. They are served
often before the soup, in the first course of a dinner, left upon
their shells, and arranged usually in as many plates as there are
guests at table.

TO STEW OYSTERS.

A pint of small plump oysters will be sufficient for quite a
moderate-sized dish, but twice as many will be required for a
large one. Let them be very carefully opened, and not mangled
in the slightest degree; wash them free from grit in their own
strained liquor, lay them into a very clean stewpan or well-tin-
ned saucepan, strain the liquor a second time, pour it on them,
and heat them slowly in it. When they are just beginning to
simmer, lift them out with a slice or a bored wooden spoon, and
take off the beards; add to the liquor a quarter-pint of good
cream, a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne, and a little
salt, and when it boils, stir in from one to two ounces of good
butter, smoothly mixed with a large teaspoonful of flour ; con-
tinue to stir the sauce until these are perfectly blended with it,

CHAP. II. ] | FISH, 79

then put in the oysters, and let them remain by the side of the
fire until they are very hot: they require so little cooking, that
if kept for four or five minutes nearly simmering, they will be
ready for table, and they are quickly hardened by being allowed
to boil, or by too much stewing. Serve them garnished with
pale fried sippets.

Small plump oysters, 1 pint: their own liquor: brought
slowly to the point of simmering. Cream, } pint; seasoning of
pounded mace and cayenne; salt as needed ; butter, 1 to 2 ozs.;
flour, 1 large teaspoonful.

Obs.—A little lemon-juice should be stirred quickly into the
stew just as it is taken from the fire. Another mode of prepar-
ing this dish is to add the strained liquor of the oysters to about
an equal quantity of rich bechamel, with a little additional
thickening ; then to heat them in it, after having prepared and
plumped them properly. Or: the beards of the fish may be
_ stewed for half an hour in a little pale veal gravy, and this,
when strained and mixed with the oyster-liquor, may be brought
to the consistency of cream with the French thickening of
Chapter VI. or, with flour and butter, then seasoned with spice
as above: the process should be quite the same in all of these
receipts, though the composition of the sauce is varied. Essence
of anchovies, cavice, Chili vinegar, or yolks of eggs can be added
to the taste.

TO SCALLOP OYSTERS.

Large coarse oysters should never be dressed in this way.
Select. small plump ones for the purpose, let them be opened
carefully, give them a scald in their own liquor, wash them in
it free from grit, and beard them neatly. Butter the scallop
shells and shake some fine bread-crumbs over them; fill them
with alternate layers of oysters, crumbs of bread, and fresh
butter cut into small bits; pour in the oyster-liquor, after it has
been strained, put a thick, smooth layer of bread-crumbs on the
top, moisten them with clarified butter, place the shells in a
Dutch oven before a clear fire, and turn them often till the tops
ae equally and lightly browned: send them immediately to
table.

Some persons like a little white pepper or cayenne, and a
flavouring of nutmeg added to the oysters; others prefer pounded
mace. I'rench cooks recommend with them a mixture of
minced mushrooms stewed in butter till quite tender, and sweet
herbs finely chopped. ‘The fish is sometimes laid into the shells
_ after having been bearded only.

80 MODERN COOKERY. | [cwap. 11.

‘ SCALLOPED OYSTERS A LA REINE.

Plump and beard the oysters, after having rinsed them well
in their own strained liquor; add to this about an equal quantity
of very rich white sauce, and thicken it, if needful, with a half-
teaspoonful of flour, mixed with a small slice of butter, or with
as much arrow-root only; put in the oysters, and keep them at
the point of simmering for three or four minutes; lay them into
the shells, and cover the tops thickly with crumbs fried a
delicate brown and well dried; or heap over them instead, a
layer of fine crumbs; pour clarified butter on them, and brown
them with a salamander.

OYSTER SAUSAGES.

Beard, rinse well in their strained liquor, and mince, but not
finely, three dozens and a half of plump native oysters, and mix
them with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs, and ten of beef-suet
chopped extremely small ; add a saltspoonful of salt, and one of
pepper, or less than half the quantity of cayenne, twice as much
pounded mace, and the third of a small nutmeg grated ; moisten
the whole with two unbeaten eggs, or with the yolks only of
three, and a dessertspoonful of the whites. When these ingre-
dients have been well worked together, and are perfectly
blended, set the mixture in a cool place for two or three hours
before it is used; make it into the form of small sausages or
sausage-cakes, flour and fry them in butter of a fine light
brown; or throw them into boiling water for three minutes,
drain, and let them become cold, dip them into egg and bread-
crumbs, and broil them gently until they are lightly coloured.
A small bit should be cooked and tasted before the whole is put
aside, that the seasoning may be heightened if required. The
sausages thus made are very good. '

Small plump oysters, 3} dozens ; bread-crumbs, 10 ozs. ; beef-
suet, 10 ozs.; seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and
nutmeg ; unbeaten eggs 2, or yolks of 3.

Obs.—The fingers should be well floured for making up these
sausages.

TO FRY OYSTERS.

They should be large for this purpose. Simmer them for a
couple of minutes in their own liquor, beard and dry them in a
cloth, dredge them lightly with flour, dip them in egg and fine
bread-crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown in boiling lard ;
or make a thick batter with eggs and flour, season it with

@
CHAP, 11. | FISH. 81

plenty of mace, and white pepper, dip the oysters in and then
fry them.

RED HERRINGS, A LA DAUPHIN.

Take off the heads, open the backs of the fish, and remove
the back-bones; soak the herrings, should they be very dry, for
two or three hours in warm milk and water, drain and wipe
them. Dissolve a large slice of fresh butter, and mix it with
the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs, and some savoury herbs
minced small; dip the fish into these, and spread them thickly
with fine bread-crumbs; broil them of a clear brown, over
a moderate fire, and serve them on hot buttered toasts, sprinkled
with a little cayenne.

RED HERRINGS, COMMON ENGLISH MODE.

This fish is rendered infinitely more delicate by pouring
boiling water on it, before it is dressed, and leaving it to soak
for half an hour, or more, should it be highly dried. The fresh
Yarmouth bloaters do not require this. Cut off the heads and
tails, open the herrings at the back, and warm them through
before the fire, or upon the gridiron. They may be rubbed
with a bit of cold butter, and seasoned with a slight sprinkling
of pepper or cayenne, when these are liked, or served quite
plain.

ANCHOVIES FRIED IN BATTER.

Serape very clean a dozen or more of fine anchovies, and
soak them in plenty of spring water from two to six hours;
then wipe them dry, open them, and take out the back-bones,
without dividing the fish. Season the insides highly with
cayenne, close the anchovies, dip them into the French batter of
Chapter VI., or into a light English batter, and fry them a pale
amber-colour : in from four to five minutes they will be quite
sufficiently done.

Bh MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. III.

CHAPTER IIL “a
GRAVIES, gh

fo
\

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS,

Graviss are. not -ofté
quired either in“grea
riety, or in abundant
tities, when only a moderate ~~
table is kept, and.@ clever .. °
hima cook will manage temupply,
i Ve oe Gravy Kettle. at a trifling cost, al that is. -.
generally needed for plain family dinners; while an unskilful —
- or extravagant one will render them sources of unbounded
- expense.* But however small the proportions in which they
are made, their quality should be particularly attended to, and
they should be well adapted in flavour to the dishes they are to
accompany. For some, a high degree of savour is desirable ;
but for. fricassees, and other preparations of delicate white
meats, this should be avoided, and a soft, smooth sauce of
refined flavour should be used in preference to any of more
th piquant relish.
4 Instead of frying the ingredients for brown gravies, which is
usually done in common English kitchens, French cooks pour
to them at first a small quantity of liquid, which is reduced by
rapid boiling to what is technically called glaze; particular
directions for which will be found in the next receipt to
this, and also at pages 9 and 93. When the glaze
has acquired the proper colour, boiling broth should be
added in small portions, and well shaken round the stewpan
to detach it entirely; the meat may then be stewed gently |
for three or four hours with a few mushroonis, should
they be at hand, a bunch of parsley, and some green onions,
or with a Portugal onion insteady =.

A thick slice or two of an unboiled ham, is an almost indis-
pensable addition to rich soup or gravy; and to supply it in the
most economical manner, a large, highly cured one, or more, not
over fatted, should be kept for the purpose, and cut as required.

The bones of undressed meat will supply almost, or quite as good

* We know of an instance of a cook who stewed down two or three pounds of
beef to make gravy for a single brace of partridges; and who complained of the |
aeg of her employers (who were by no means affluent) because this was
objected to.

CHAP. IT. | - -GRAVIES. | 83

gravy-stock as the meat itself, if well boiled down, particularly

those of the loin, or neck of veal: and as the flesh of these may
_ be dressed in many ways advantageously without them, the

whole joint may be turned to excellent account by so dividing it.

_.The necks of poultry, with the feet properly skinned, a few

~~ herbs, a morsel or two of ham or of lean bacon, and such slight

_ flavourings beside as the spice box can supply, with a few drops
of good mushroom catsup, will of themselves, if well managed,
produce sufficient gravy to serve with the birds from which they
are taken; and if not wanted for the purpose, they should
always be stewed down, or thrown into the stock-pot, for which:
the shank-bones of legs of mutton, and all trimmings of meat
should likewise be reserved. Excellent broth for the sick or for
the needy, may also be made of them at little cost, when they
are not required for other uses.

To deepen the colour of gravies, the thick mushroom pressings
of Chapter V., or a little soy (when its flavour is admissible), or
cavice, or Harvey’s sauce, may be added to it; and for some
dishes, a glass of claret, or of port wine.

Vermicelli, or rasped cocoa-nut, lightly, and very gently
browned in a small quantity of butter, will both thicken and
enrich them, if about an ounce of either to the pint of gravy be
stewed gently in it from half an hour to an hour, and then
strained out.

All the ingredients indicated at page 3, for giving consistency
to soups, will answer equally for gravies, which should not,
however, be too much thickened, particularly with the unwhole-
some mixture of flour and butter, so commonly used for the
purpose. Arrow-root, or rice-flour, or common flour gradually
browned in a slow oven, are much better suited to a delicate
stomach. No particle of fat should ever be perceptible upon
them when they are sent to table; and when it cannot be
removed by skimming, they should be allowed to become sufii-

- ciently cold for it to congeal, and be taken off at once without
trouble. It may. ‘be cleared from such as have not been
thickened, by passing them through a closely woven cloth,
which has previously been laid into, and well wrung from, some
cold water.

TO HEIGHTEN THE COLOUR AND THE FLAVOUR OF GRAVIES.

This is best done by the directions given for making Espag-
nole. An ounce or'two of the lean of unboiled ham, cut into
dice and coloured slowly in a small stewpan, or smoothly tinned
iron saucepan, with less than an ounce of butter, a blade of

84 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. It.

mace, two or three cloves, a bay-leaf, a few small sprigs of
savoury herbs, and an eschalot or two, or about a teaspoonful of
minced onion, and a little young parsley root, when it can be
had, will convert common shin of beef stock, or even strong
broth, into an excellent gravy, if it be gradually added to them
after they have stewed slowly for quite half an hour, and then
boiled with them for twenty minutes or more. The liquid
should not be mixed with the other ingredients until the side of
the stewpan is coloured of a reddish brown; and should any
thickening be required, a teaspoonful of flour should be stirred
in well, and simmered for three or four minutes before the stock
is added: the pan should be strongly shaken round afterwards
to detach the browning from it, and this must be done often
while the ham is stewing. :
Obs.—The cook who is not acquainted with this mode of
preparing or enriching gravies, will do well to make herself
acquainted with it; as it presents no difficulties, and is exceed-
ingly convenient and advantageous when they are wanted in
small quantities, very highly flavoured and well coloured. An
unboiled ham, kept in cut, will be found, as we have already
said, a great economy for this, and other purposes, saving much
ot the expense commonly incurred for gravy-meats. As escha-

lots, when sparingly used, impart a much finer savour than,

onions, though they are not commonly so much used in
England, we would recommend that a small store of them
should always be kept.

SHIN OF BEEF STOCK.
(for Graves.)
There is no better foundation for strong gravies than shin o

beef stewed down to a jelly (which it easily becomes), with the
addition only of some spice, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a
moderate proportion of salt; this, if kept in a cool larder,
boiled softly for two or three minutes every second or third day,
and each time put into a clean, well-scalded pan, will remain
good for many days, and may easily be converted into excellent
soup or gravy. Let the bone be broken in one or two places,
take out the marrow, which, if not wanted for immediate use,
‘should be clarified, and stored for future occasions ; put a pint
and a half of cold water to the pound of beef, and stew it very
gently indeed for six or seven hours, or even longer should the
meat not then be quite in fragments. ‘The bones of calf’s feet
which have been boiled down for jelly, the liquor in which the
head has been cooked, and any remains of ham quite freed from

CHAP. I11.] GRAVIES. ae 85

the smoky parts, from rust, and fat, will be serviceable additions

_ to this stock. A couple of pounds of the neck of beef may be

added to six of the shin with very good effect; but for white
soup or sauces this is better avoided.

Shin of beef 6 lbs.; water, 9 pints; salt, 1 oz.; large bunch

savoury herbs ; peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful; mace, 2 blades.

RICH PALE VEAL GRAVY, OR, CONSOMMEE.

The French, who have always at hand their stock-pot of
good boudlon (beef scup or broth), make great use of it in
preparing their gravies. It is added instead of water to the
fresh meat, and when this, in somewhat large proportions, is
boiled down in it, with the addition only of a bunch of parsley,
a few green onions, and a moderate seasoning of salt, a strong
and very pure-flavoured pale gravy is produced. When the
best joints of fowls, or of partridges have been taken for fricas-
sees or cutlets, the remainder may be stewed with a pound
or two of veal into a consommée, which then takes the name of
chicken or of game gravy. For a large dinner it is always
desirable to have in readiness such stock as can easily and
quickly be converted into white and other sauces. To make
this, arrange a slice or two of lean ham in a stewpan or sauce-
pan with three pounds of the neck of veal once or twice divided
(unless the thick fleshy part of the knuckle can be had), and
pour to them three full pints of strong beef or veal broth; or
if this cannot conveniently be done, increase the proportion of
meat or diminish that of the liquid, substituting water for the
broth, throw in some salt after the boiling has commenced, and
the gravy has been well skimmed, with one mild onion, a bunch
of savoury herbs, a little celery, if in season, a carrot, a blade of
mace, and a half-saltspoonful of peppercorns; stew these very
gently for four hours; then, should the meat be quite in frag-
ments, strain off the gravy, and let it become sufficiently cold to
allow the fat to be entirely cleared from it. A handful of nicely
prepared mushroom-buttons will much improve its flavour;
and the bones of boiled calf’s feet, or the fresh ones of fowls
will be found excellent additions to it. A better method of
making it, when time and trouble are not regarded, is to heat
the meat, which ought then to be free of bones, quite through,
with from a quarter to half a pint of broth only, and when on
probing it with the point of a knife no blood issues from it, and
it has been turned and equally done, to moisten it with the
remainder of the broth, which should be boiling.

_ Lean of ham, 6 to 8 ozs.; neck or knuckle of veal, 3 Ibs. ;

86 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. III.

strong broth, 3 pints, (or veal, 4 lbs., and water, 3 pints) ; salt ;
bunch of savoury herbs; mild onion, 1; carrot, 1 large or 2
small; celery, 3 small head; mace, 1 large blade; peppercorns,
1 saltspoonful: 4 hours or more. Or: ham, 3 Ib.; veal, 4 lbs.
broth, third of a pint: nearly 1 hour. Additional broth, 3
pints: 34 to 43 hours.

RICH DEEP-COLOURED VEAL GRAVY.

Lay into a large thick stewpan or saucepan, from half to three
quarters of a pound of undressed ham, freed entirely from fat,
and from the smoked edges, and sliced half an inch thick ; on
this place about four pounds of lean veal, cut from the best
part of the knuckle or from the neck (part of the fillet, which
in France is often used for it instead, not being generally pur-
chasable here, the butchers seldom dividing the joint) ; pour
to them about half a pint of good broth,* and place the pan
over a brisk fire until it is well reduced, then thrust a knife
into the meat, and continue the stewing more gently until a
glaze is formed as we have described at page 93. The latter
part of the process must be very slow » the stewpan must be fre-
quently shaken, and the gravy closely watched that it may not
burn; when it is of a fine deep amber colour, pour in sufficient
boiling broth to cover the meat, add a bunch of parsley, and a
few mushrooms and green onions. A blade or two of mace, a
few white peppercorns, and a head of celery, would, we think,
be very admissible additions to this gravy, but it is extremely
good without. Halfthe quantity can be made, but it will then
be rather more troublesome to manage.

Undressed ham, 8 to 12 ozs. ; lean veal, 4 lbs.; broth, 3 pint:
1 to 2 hours. Broth, 3 to 4 pints; bunch of parsley and green
onions, or 1 Portugal onion; mushrooms, } to 4 pint: 1) to 2
hours.

GOOD BEEF OR VEAL GRAVYe
. (English Receipte)

Flour and fry lightly in a bit of good butter a couple of
pounds of either beef or veal; drain the meat well from the fat,
and lay it into a small thick stewpan or iron saucepan ; pour to
it a quart of boiling water; add, after it has been well skimmed
and salted, a large mild onion sliced, very delicately fried, and
laid on a sieve to drain, a carrot also sliced, a small bunch of

* When there is no provision of this in the house, the quantity required may

be made with a small quantity of beef, and the trimmings Of the veal, by the di-
rections for Bouillon, page 6.

CHAP. II.) GRAVIES. 87

thyme and parsley, a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns ;
stew these gently for three hours or more, pass the gravy
through a sieve into a clean pan, and when it is quite cold clear
_ it entirely from fat, heat as much as is wanted for table, and if

not sufficiently thick stir into it from half to a whole teaspoon-
ful of arrow-root mixed with a little mushroom catsup.

Beef or veal, 2 lbs.; water, 2 pints; fried onion, 1 large;
carrot, 1; small bunch of herbs; salt, 1 small teaspoonful or
more; mace, 1 blade; peppercorns, 20: 3 to 3! hours.

A RICH ENGLISH BROWN GRAVY.

Brown lightly and carefully from four to six ounces of lean
ham, thickly sliced and cut into large dice; lift these out, and.
put them into the pan in which the gravy is to be made; next,
fry lightly also, a couple of pounds of neck of beef, dredged
moderately with flour, and slightly with pepper; put this when
it is done over the ham; and then brown gently, and add to
them two or three eschalots, or a Portugal onion : should neither
of these be at hand, one not large common onion must be used
instead. Pour over these ingredients a quart of boiling water,
_ or of weak but well-flavoured broth, bring the whole slowly to
a boil, clear off the scum with great care, throw in a saltspoonful
of salt, four cloves, a blade of mace, twenty corns of pepper, a
bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, and a few slices of celery:
these last two may be fried or not as is most convenient. Boil
the gravy very softly until it is reduced to little more than a
pint; strain, and set it by until the fat can be taken from it.
Heat it anew, add more salt if needed, and a little mushroom
catsup, cayenne-vinegar, or whatever flavouring it may require
for the dish with which it is to be served: it will seldom need
any thickening. A dozen small mushrooms prepared as for
pickling, or two or three morels, previously well washed and
soaked, may be added to it at first with advantage. Half this
quantity of gravy will be sufficient for a single tureen, and the
economist can diminish a little the proportion of meat when it is
thought too much.

GRAVY FOR VENISON.

If possible, let this be made with a little of the neck, or of any
odd trimmings of the venison itself. Cut down the meat small,
and let it stand over a slow fire until the juices are well drawn
out ; then to each pound of it add a pint and a quarter of boiling
water; throw in a small half-teaspoonful of salt, and eight or
ten corns of pepper; skim it thoroughly, and let it boil two

88 MODERN COOKERY. _ [onar. m1.

hours and a half; then strain it, let it cool, take off every par-
ticle of fat, give it a minute’s simmer, and send it very hot to
table. .

Neck, or other trimmings of venison, 1 lb.; water, 14
pint; salt, small 4 teaspoonful; peppercorns, 8 or 10: 2}
hours.

ANOTHER GRAVY FOR VENISON.

Cut small a pound and a quarter of the trimmings of the
venison, pour over them a pint and a half of cold unfiavoured
mutton broth, and stew them slowly for a couple of hours: add
a little salt to the gravy before it is served.

- Venison, 14 lb.; mutton broth, 14 pint: 2 hours.

Obs.—W hen venison cannot be had, gravy must be made of
lean mutton, thus:—Trim away the fat from some cutlets, and
lay them into a stewpan; set them over a clear fire, and let
them brown a little in their own gravy; then add a pint of
boiling water to each pound of meat.. Take off the scum, throw
in a little salt, and boil the gravy until reduced one half. Some
cooks broil the cutlets lightly, boil the gravy one hour, and then
reduce it after it is strained.

A RICH GRAVY FOR VENISON,

_ There are few eaters to whom this would be acceptable, the
generality of them preferring infinitely the flavour of the venison
itself to any which the richest gravy made of other meats can
afford ; but when the savour of a well made Espagnole is likely
to be relished, prepare it by the receipt of the following page,
substituting plain strong mutton stock for the veal gravy.

SWEET SAUCE, OR GRAVY FOR VENISON.

Add to a quarter-pint of common venison gravy a couple of
glasses of port wine or claret, and half an ounce of sugar in
lumps. Christopher North’s sauce, mixed with three times its
measure of gravy, would be an excellent substitute for this.

ESPAGNOLE (SPANISH SAUCE.)
(A highly flavoured Gravy.)

Dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a thick stewpan
or saucepan, throw in from four to six sliced eschalots, four
ounces of the lean of an undressed ham, three ounces of carrot,
cut in small dice, one bay leaf, two or three branches of parsley,
and one or two of thyme, but these last must be small; three
cloves, a blade of mace, and a dozen corns of pepper; add part

CHAP. III. | GRAVIES. 89

of a root of parsley, if it be at hand, and keep the whole stirred
or shaken over a moderate fire for twenty minutes, then add by
degrees one pint of very strong veal stock or gravy, and stew
the whole gently from thirty to forty minutes; strain it, skim
off the fat, and it will be ready to serve.

Butter, 2 ozs.; eschalots, 4 to 6; lean of undressed ham, 4
ozs. ; carrots, 3 ozs.; bay leaf, 1; little thyme and parsley, in
branches ; cloves, 3; mace, 1 blade; peppercorns, 12; little
parsley root: fried gently, 20 minutes. Strong veal stock, or
gravy, 1 pint: stewed very softly, 30 to 40 minutes.

ESPAGNOLE, WITH WINE.

Take the same proportion of ingredients as for the preceding
Espagnole, with the addition, if they should be at hand, of a
dozen small mushrooms, prepared as for stewing; when these
have fried gently in the stewpan until it appears of a reddish
colour all round, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and when it is
lightly browned, add in small portions, letting each one boil up
before the next is poured in, and shaking the pan well round,
three quarters of a pint of hot and good veal gravy, and nearly
half a pint of Madeira or sherry. When the sauce has boiled
gently for half an hour, add to it a small quantity of cayenne,
and some salt, if this last be needed ; then strain it, skim off the
fat entirely, should any appear upon the surface, and serve it
very hot. A smalier proportion of wine, added a few minutes
before the sauce is ready for table, would perhaps better suit
with English taste, as with longer boiling, its flavour passes off
almost entirely. Either of these Espagnoles, poured over the
well bruised remains of pheasants, partridges, or moor fowl, and
boiled with them for an hour, will become a most admirable
game gravy, and would generally be considered a superlative
addition to other roast birds of their kind, as well as to the hash
or salmi, for which see Chapter XIII.

Ingredients as in preceding receipt, with mushrooms 12 to 18;
Madeira, or good sherry, 4 to 3 pint.

JUS DES ROGNONS ; OR, KIDNEY GRAVY.

Strip the skin and take the fat from three fresh mutton kid-
neys, slice and flour them ; melt two ounces of butter in a deep
saucepan, and put in the kidneys, with an onion cut small, and
a teaspoonful of fine herbs stripped from the stalks. _ Keep these
well shaken over a clear fire until nearly all the moisture is
dried up ; then pour in a pint of boiling water, add half a tea-~
spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne or commen pepper, and let

90 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. It.

the gravy boil gently for an hour and a half, or longer, if it be . |

not thick and rich. Strain it through a fine sieve, and take off
the fat. Spice or catsup may be added at pleasure.

Mutton kidneys, 3; butter, 2 ozs.; onion, 1; fine herbs, 1
teaspoonful: } hour. Water, 1 pint; salt, 4 teaspoonful; little
cayenne, or black pepper: 1} hour.

Obs.—This is an excellent gravy for haricots, curries, or hashes
of mutton: it may be much improved by the addition of two or
three eschalots, and a small bit or two of lean meat.

GRAVY IN HASTE.

Chop fine a few bits of lean meat, a small onion, a few slices
of carrot and turnip, and a little thyme and parsley ; put these
with half an ounce of butter into a thick saucepan, and keep
them stirred until they are slightly browned; add a little spice,
and water in the proportion of a pint to a pound of meat;
clear the gravy from scum, let it boil half an hour, then strain
it for use.

Meat, 1 lb.; 1 small onion; little carrot, turnip, thyme, and
parsley; butter, 3 0z.; cloves, 6; corns of pepper, 12; water,
1 pint: 3 hour.

CHEAP GRAVY FOR A ROAST FOWL.

When there is neither broth nor gravy to be had, nor meat
of which either can be made, boil the neck of the fowl aiter
having cut it small, in half a pint of water with any slight
seasonings of spice or herbs, or with a little salt and pepper
only; it should stew very softly for an hour or more, or the
quantity will be too much reduced. When the bird is just
ready for table, take the gravy from the dripping-pan, and
drain off the fat from it as closely as possible; strain the liquor
from the neck to it, mixing them smoothly, pass the gravy
again through the strainer, heat it, add salt and pepper or
cayenne, if needed, and serve it extremely hot. When this is
done, the fowl should be basted with good butter only, and
well floured when it is first laid to the fire. Many cooks always
mix the gravy from the pan when game is roasted with that
which they send to table with it, as they think that this enriches
the flavour ; but it is not always considered an improvement by
the eaters.

Neck of fowl; water, 4 pint; pepper, salt (little vegetable
and spice at choice): stewed gently, 1 hour; strained, stirred
to the gravy of the roast, well cleared from fat. eee

CHAP. III. | . GRAVIES. 91

ANOTHER CHEAP GRAVY FOR A FOWL.

A little good broth added to half a dozen dice of lean ham,
lightly browned in a morsel of butter, with half a dozen corns
of pepper and a small branch or two of parsley, and stewed for
half an hour, will make excellent gravy of a common kind.
When there is no broth, the neck of the chicken must be
stewed down to supply its place.

QUITE COMMON BROWN GRAVY.

Cut a sheep’s melt into slices half an inch thick, flour them
lightly, and either fry them a pale brown, or dissolve a small
slice of butter in a thick saucepan, lay them in and shake them
over a moderate fire until they have taken sufficient colour ;
then pour gradually to them between half and three quarters of
a pint of boiling water ; add a not very full seasoning of salt
and pepper, and stew the gravy very gently for upwards of an
hour and a half. Strain, and skim off the fat, and it will be
ready for table. When it is to accompany ducks or geese,
brown a minced onion with the melt, and add a sprig of lemon
thyme. ‘This, though a very cheap, is a rich gravy in flavour;
but it would be infinitely improved by using for it equal parts
of neck of beef (or of beef steak) and sheep’s melt; or the
bone and the lean only of a thick mutton cutlet. A little
catsup, or a very small quantity of spice, will likewise be good
additions to it; and a slice or two of a root of celery, and of a
carrot, might be boiled down with the meat. <A bit or two of
lean ham will heighten greatly the flavour of al/ brown gravies.

1 sheep’s melt; butter, } to 1 oz.; parsley, 1 or 2 small
branches: gently browned. Boiling water, 4 to ? pint; pepper,
salt: 14 hour, or more. Slowly stewed. (Onion, carrot,
celery, mushroom catsup, little spice, or bit or two of lean hain
at choice.)

Obs.—Part of an ox’s melt is sometimes used for gravy in
common cookery, but it is, we should say, too coarse for the
purpose, and the flavour is peculiarly, and we think disagree-
ably, sweet; but a skilful cook, may perhaps, by artificial
means, render it more palatable.

Obs. 2.—The best gravies possible, may be made with the
bones of all uncooked meat except pork.

GRAVY OR SAUCE FOR A GOOSE.
Mince, and brown in a small saucepan, with a slice of butter,

92 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. III.

two ounces of mild onion. When it begins to brown, stir to it
-a teaspoonful of flour, and in five or six minutes afterwards,
pour in by degrees the third of a pint of good brown gravy;
let this simmer fifteen minutes; strain it; bring it again to the
point of boiling, and add to it a teaspoonful of made-mustard
mixed well with a glass of port wine. Season it with cayenne
pepper, and salt, if this last be needed. Do not let the sauce
boil after the wine is added, but serve it very hot. :

Onions, 2 ozs.; butter, 14 oz.: 10 to 15 minutes. Flour, 1
teaspoonful: 5 to 6 minutes. Gravy, } pint: 15 minutes. Mus-
tard, 1 teaspoonful; port wine, 1 glassful; cayenne pepper;
salt. See also Christopher North’s own sauce.

ORANGE: GRAVY, FOR WILD FOWL.

Boil for about ten minutes, in half a pint of rich and highly-
flavoured brown gravy, or Espagnole, half the rind of a Seville
orange, pared as thin as possible, and a small strip of lemon-
rind, with a bit of sugar the size of a hazel-nut. Strain it off,
add to it a quarter pint of port or claret, the juice of half a
lemon, and a tablespoonful of Seville orange-juice ; season it
with cayenne, and serve it as hot as possible.

Gravy, 3 pint; 4 the rind of a Seville orange; lemon-peel.
1 small strip; sugar, size of hazel-nut: 10 minutes. Juice of
3 a lemon: Seville orange-juice, 1 tablespoonful; cayenne.
See also Christopher North’s own sauce.

MEAT JELLIES FOR PIES AND SAUCES.

A very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down
equal parts of shin of beef, and knuckle or neck of veal, with a
pint of cold water to each pound of meat; but to give it flavour,
some thick slices of lean unboiled ham should be added to it,
two or three carrots, some spice, a bunch of parsley, one mild
onion, or more, and a moderate quantity of salt; or part of the
meat may be omitted, and a calf’s head, or the scalp of one,
very advantageously substituted for it, though the flavouring
must then be heightened, because, though very gelatinous, these
are in themselves exceedingly insipid to the taste. If rapidly
boiled, the jelly will not be clear, and it will be difficult to ren-
der it so without clarifying it with the whites of eggs, which it
ought never to require ; if very gently stewed, on the contrary, _
it will only need to be passed through a fine sieve, or cloth.
The fat must be carefully removed, after itis quite cold. The
shin of beef recommended for this and other receipts, should

CHAP. 111. | GRAVIES. 93

be from the middle of the leg of young heifer beef, not of that
which is large and coarse.

Middle of small shin of beef, 3 Ibs.; knuckle or neck of veal,
3 lbs.; lean of ham, } lb.; water, 3 quarts; carrots, 2 large,
or 3 small; bunch of parsley; 1 mild onion, stuck with 8
cloves; 2 small bay-leaves; 1 large blade of mace; small salt-
spoonful of peppercorns ; salt, 2 oz. (more if needed): 5 to 6
hours’ very gentle stewing.

Obs.—A finer jelly may be made by using a larger propor-
tion of veal than of beef, and by adding clear beef or
veal broth to it instead of water, in a small proportion
at first, as directed in the receipt for consommée, see page
85, and by pouring in the remainder when the meat is heated
through. ‘The necks of poultry, any inferior joints of them
omitted from a fricassee, or other dish, or an old fowl, will fur-
ther improve it much; an eschalot or two may at choice be
boiled down in it, instead of the onion, but the flavour should
be scarcely perceptible.

A CHEAPER MEAT JELLY.

One calf’s foot, a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of
veal or beef, a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a little
spice, a bit or two of quite lean ham, dressed or undressed, and
five half pints of water, boiled very slowly for five or six hours
will give a strong, though not a highly flavoured jelly. More
ham, any bones of unboiled meat, poultry, or game will, in this
“respect, improve it; and the liquor in which fowls or veal have
been boiled for table should, when at hand, be used for it
instead of water. These jellies keep much better and longer
when no vegetables are stewed down in them.

GLAZE.

This is merely strong, clear, gravy or jelly boiled quickly
down to the consistency of thin cream; but this reduction must
be carefully managed that the glaze may be brought to the
proper point without being burned; it must be attentively
watched, and stirred without being quitted for a moment from
the time of its beginning to thicken; when it has reached the
proper degree of boiling, it will jelly in dropping from the
spoon, like preserve, and should then be poured out immediately,
or it will burn. When wanted for use, melt it gently by placing
the vessel which contains it (see article Glazing, Chapter VIL.)
in a pan of boiling water, and with a paste-brush lay it on to
. the meat, upon which it will form a sort of clear varnish. In

94 MODERN COOKERY. [owap, Tit,

consequence of the very great reduction which it undergoes, salt
should be added to it sparingly when it is made. Any kind of
stock may be boiled down to glaze; but unless it be strong, a
pint will afford buta spoonful or two; a small quantity of it,
however, is generally sufficient, unless a large repast is to be
served. ‘Two or three layers must be given to each joint. The
jellies which precede this will answer for it extremely well; and
it may be made also with shin of beef stock, for common
occasions, when no other is at hand.

ASPIC, OR CLEAR SAVOURY-JELLY.

Boil a couple of calf’s feet, with three or four pounds of
knuckle of veal, three quarters of a pound of lean ham, two
large onions, three whole carrots, and a large bunch of herbs,
in a gallon of water, till it is reduced more than half. Strain it
off; when perfectly cold, remove every particle of fat and
sediment, and put the jelly into a very clean stewpan, with four
whites of eggs well beaten; keep it stirred until it is nearly
boiling; then place it by the side of the fire to simmer for a
quarter of an hour. Let it settle, and pour it through a jelly-
bag until it is quite clear. Add, when it first begins to boil,
three blades of mace, a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and
sufficient salt to flavour it properly, allowing for the ham, and
the reduction. French cooks flavour this jelly with tarragon
vinegar when it is clarified: cold poultry, game, and fish are
served in, or garnished with it; when it is to be moulded, with

slices of boiled tongue laid in the middle in a chain, or carved:

fowl, or aught else, it will be well to throw in a pinch of isin-
glass; and hams are often placed on a thick layer of it roughed,
and then covered entirely with more for large breakfasts, or cold
repasts. It is also used as gravy for meat pies.

Calf’s feet, 2; veal, 4lbs.; ham, 2 lb.; onions, 2; carrots, 3;
herbs, large bunch; mace, 3 blades: white whole pepper, 1 tea-
spoonful ; water, 1 gallon: 5 to 6 hours. Whites of eggs, 4:
15 minutes.

Seemevebiesmte

CHAP, IV. ] SAUCES. 95

CHAPTER IV.
SAUCES. ee
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS,

Tue difference between
good and bad cookery
can scarcely be more
strikingly shown than
in the manner in which
sauces are prepared and
served. If well made,
appropriate to the
dishes they accompany,
and sent to table with
them as hot as possible, they not only give a heightened relish
to a dinner, but they prove that both skill and taste have been
exerted in its arrangements. When coarsely or carelessly pre-
pared, on the contrary, as they too often are, they greatly
discredit the cook, and are anything but acceptable to the eaters.
Melted butter, the most common of all,—the “ one sauce” of
England, which excites the raillery of foreigners,—is frequently
found to be such an intolerable compound, either oiled or
lumpy, or composed principally of flour and water, that it says
but little for the state of cookery amongst us. We trust that
the receipts in the present chapter are so clearly given, that
if strictly followed they will materially assist the learner in
preparing tolerably palatable sauces at the least. The cut at
the commencement of the chapter exhibits the vessel called a
bain marie, in which saucepans are placed when it is necessary
to keep their contents hot without allowing them to boil: it 1s
extremely useful when dinners are delayed after they are ready
to serve.

Bain Marie, or Water Bath.

TO THICKEN SAUCES.

When this is done with the yolks of eggs, they should first be
well beaten, and then mixed with a spoonful of cold stock,
should it be at hand, and with one or two of the boiling sauce,
which should be stirred very quickly to them, and they must in
turn be stirred briskly to the sauce, which may be held over the
fire, and well shaken for an instant afterwards, but never placed
upon it, nor allowed to boil.

To the roux or French thickening (which follows), the gravy

* oe oe eee q

96 MODERN COOKERY. [cuAp. Iv.

or other liquid which is to be mixed with it should be poured
boiling, and in small quantities, the saucepan being often well |
shaken round, and the sauce made to boil up after each portion
is added. If this precaution be observed, the butter will never
float upon the surface, but the whole will be well and smoothly
blended: it will otherwise be difficult to clear the sauce from it
perfectly.

For invalids, or persons who object to butter in their soups or
sauces, flour only, mixed to a smooth batter and stirred into the
boiling liquid, may be substituted for other thickening: arrow-
root also, used in the same way, will answer even better than

fiour. *

FRENCH THICKENING; OR, BROWN ROUX.

For ordinary purposes this may be made as it is wanted for
use ; but when it is required for various dishes at the same time,
or for cookery upon a large scale, it can be prepared at once in
sufficient quantity to last for several days, and it will remain good
for some time. Dissolve with a very gentle degree of heat, half
a pound of good butter, then draw it from the fire, skim it well,
give time for it to settle, pour it gently from the sediment into a
very clean frying-pan, and place it over a slow but clear fire.
Put into a dredging box about seven ounces of fine dry flour;
add it gradually to the butter, shake the pan often as it is
thrown in, and keep the thickening constantly stirred until it has
acquired a clear light brown colour. It should be very slowly
and equally done, or its flavour will be unpleasant. Pour it
into a jar, and stir a spoonful or two as it is needed into boiling
soup or gravy. When the butter is not clarified it will absorb
an additional ounce of flour, the whole of which ought to be
fine and dry. This thickening may be made in a well-tinned
stewpan even better than in a frying-pan, and if simmered over
a coal fire it should be placed high above it, and well guarded
from smoke.

WHITE ROUX, OR FRENCH THICKENING.

Proceed exactly as for the preceding receipt, but dredge in
the flour as soon as the butter is in full simmer, and be careful
not to allow the thickening to take the slightest colour: this is

used for white gravies or sauces.
f

SAUCE TOURNEE, OR, PALE THICKENED GRAVY. f

Sauce tournée is nothing more than rich pale gravy made with
veal or poultry (see consommée, page 85) and thickened with

CHAP. IV. | SAUCES. 9”

delicate white roux. ‘The French give it a flavouring of mush-
rooms and green onions, by boiling some of each in it for about
half an hour before the sauce is served; it must then be strained,
previously to being dished. Wither first dissolve an ounce of
- butter, and then dredge gradually to it three quarters of an
ounce of flour, and proceed as for the preceding receipt; or
blend the flour and butter perfectly with a knife, before they
are thrown into the stewpan, and keep them stirred without
ceasing over a clear and gentle fire until they have simmered
for some minutes, then place the stewpan high over the fire, and
shake it constantly until the roux has lost the raw taste of the
flour ; next, stir very gradually to it a pint of the gravy, which
should be boiling: set it by the side of the stove for a few mi-
nutes, and skim it thoroughly.

Butter, 1 oz.; flour, $ 0z.; strong, pale gravy, seasoned with
mushrooms and green onions, 1 pint.

Obs. 8.—With the addition of three or four yolks of very
fresh eggs, mixed with a seasoning of mace, cayenne, and lemon-
juice, this becomes German sauce, now much used for fricassees,
and other dishes ; and minced parsley (boiled) and Chili vinegar,
each in sufficient quantity to flavour it agreeably, convert it into
a good fish sauce.

BECHAMEL.

This is a fine French white sauce, now very much served at
good English tables. It may be made in various ways, and
more or less expensively ; but it should always be thick, smooth,
and rich, though delicate in favour. The most ready mode of
preparing it, is to take an equal proportion of very strong, pale
veal gravy, and of good cream (a pint of each, for example), and
then by rapid boiling over a very clear fire, to reduce the gravy
nearly half; next, to mix with part of the cream a tablespoonful
of fine dry flour, to pour it to the remainder, when it boils, and
to keep the whole stirred for five minutes or more over a slow
fire, for if placed upon a fierce one, it would be liable to burn ;
then to add the gravy, to stir and mix the sauce perfectly, and to
simmer it fora few minutes longer. All the flavour should be
given by the gravy, in which French cooks boil a handful of
mushrooms, a few green onions, and some branches of parsley
before it is reduced : but a good béchamel may be made without
them, with a strong consommée (See pale veal gravy, page 85)
well reduced.

Strong pale veal gravy (flavoured with mushrooms or not), 1

98 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Iv.

pint: reduced half. Rich cream, 1 pint; flour, 1 tablespoonful :
5 minutes. With gravy, 4 or 5 minutes.

Obs.—Velouté, which is a rather thinner sauce or gravy, is
made by simply well reducing the cream and stock separately,
and then mixing them together without any thickening.

BECHAMEL MAIGRE.
(A cheap White Sauce.)

A good béchamel may be made entirely without meat, when
economy is an object, or when no gravy is at hand. Put into
a stewpan, or a well tinned and thick saucepan, with from two
to three ounces of butter, a carrot, and a couple of small onions,
cut in slices, with a handful of nicely-cleaned mushroom-but-
tons, when these last can be easily procured; and when they
have stewed slowly for half an hour, or until the butter is nearly
dried up, stir in two tablespoonsful of flour, and pour in a pint
of new milk, a little at a time, shaking the stewpan well round,
that the sauce may be smooth. Boil the béchamel gently for
half an hour; add a little salt, and cayenne; strain, and reduce
it, if not quite thick, or pour it boiling to the yolks of two fresh

eggs.
ANOTHER COMMON BECHAMEL.

Cut half a pound of veal, and a slice of lean ham into small
dice, and stew them in butter, with vegetables, as directed in the
foregoing receipt: stir in the same proportion of flour, then add
the milk, and let the sauce boil very gently for an hour. It
should not be allowed to thicken too much before it is strained.

Obs.—Common béchamel, with the addition of a spoonful of
made-mustard, is an excellent sauce for boiled mutton.

RICH MELTED BUTTER.

This is more particularly required in general for lobster sauce,
when it is to be served with turbot or brill, and for good oyster
sauce as well. Salmon is itself so rich, that less butter is needed
for it than for sauce which is to accompany a drier fish. Mix
to a very smooth batter a dessertspoonful of fiour, a half-salt-
spoonful of salt, and half a pint of cold water; put these into a
delicately clean saucepan, with from four to six ounces of well-
flavoured butter, cut into small bits, and shake the sauce strongly
round, almost without cessation, until the ingredients are per-

fectly blended, and it is on the point of boiling; let it simmer.

for two or three minutes, and it will be ready for use. The
best French cooks recommend its not being allowed to boii, as

CHAP. Iv. | SAUCES. 99

they say it tastes less of flour if served when it is just at the
point of simmering.

Cold water, 3 pint; salt, } spoonful; flour, 1 dessertspoonful :
3 to 4 minutes. Butter; 4 to 6 ozs.

MELTED BUTTER.
(A good common Receipt.)

Put into a basin a large teaspoonful of flour, and a little salt,
then mix with them very gradually and very smoothly a quar-
ter-pint of cold water; turn these into a small clean saucepan,
and shake or stir them constantly over a clear fire until they
have boiled a couple of minutes, then add an ounce and a
half of butter cut small, keep the sauce stirred until this is
entirely dissolved, give the whole a minute’s boil, and serve it
quickly. The more usual mode is to put the butter in at first
with the flour and water; but for inexperienced or unskilful
cooks the safer plan is to follow the present receipt.

Water, + pint; flour, 1 teaspoonful: 2 minutes. Butter, 14
oz.: 1 minute.

Obs.—To render this a rich sauce, increase or even double the
proportion of butter.

FRENCH MELTED BUTTER.

Pour half a pint of good, but not very thick, boiling melted
butter, to the well-beaten yolks of two very fresh eggs, and stir
them briskly as it is added ; put the sauce again into the sauce-
pan, and shake it high over the fire for an instant, but do not
allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Adda little lemon-juice or
vinegar, and serve it immediately.

NORFOLK SAUCE, OR, RICH MELTED BUTTER WITHOUT FLOUR.

Put three tablespoonsful of water into a small saucepan, and
when it boils add four ounces of fresh butter ; as soon as this
is quite dissolved, take the saucepan from the fire and shake it
round until the sauce looks thick and smooth. It must not be.
allowed to boil after the butter is added.

Water, 3 tablespoonsful ; butter, 4 ozs.

WHITE MELTED BUTTER.

Thicken half a pint of new milk with rather less flour than
is directed for the common melted butter, or with a little arrow-
root, and stir into it by degrees after it has boiled, a couple of
ounces of fresh butter cut small; do not cease to stir the sauce
watil this is entirely dissolved, or it may become oiled, and float

100 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IVe

upon the top. Thin cream, substituted for the milk, and fia-
voured with a few strips of lemon-rind cut extremely thin, some
salt, and a small quantity of pounded mace, if mixed with rather
‘* Jess flour, and the same proportion of butter, will make an ex-
~ cellent sauce to serve with fowls or other dishes, when no gravy
is at hand to make white sauce in the usual way.

BURNT BUTTER.

Melt in a frying-pan three ounces of fresh butter, and keep it
stirred slowly over a gentle fire until it is of a dark brown
colour; then pour to it a couple of tablespoonsful of good hot
vinegar, and season it with black pepper, and a little salt. In
France, this is a favourite sauce with boiled skate, which is
served with plenty of crisped parsley, in addition, strewed
over it.

Butter, 3.0zs.; vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful; pepper ; salt.

CLARIFIED BUTTER.

Put the butter into a very clean and well-tinned saucepan or
enamelled stewpan, and melt it gently over a clear fire; when
it just begins to simmer, skim it thoroughly, draw it from the
fire, and let it stand a few minutes that the butter-milk may
sink to the bottom; then pour it clear of the sediment through
a muslin strainer or a fine hair-sieve ; put it into jars, and store
them in a cool place. Butter, thus prepared, will answer for ali
the ordinary purposes of cookery, and remain good for a great
length of time. In France, large quantities are melted down in
autumn for winter-use. The clarified butter ordered for the
various receipts in this volume, is merely dissolved with a
gentle degree of heat in a small saucepan, skimmed, and poured
out for use, leaving the thick sediment behind.

VERY GOOD EGG SAUCE.

- Boil four fresh eggs for quite fifteen minutes, then lay them
into plenty of fresh water, and let them remain until they are
perfectly cold. Break the shells by rolling them on a table,
take them off, separate the whites from the yolks, and divide all
of the latter into quarter-inch dice; mince two of the whites
only, tolerably small, mix them lightly, and stir them into the
third of a pint of rich melted butter, or of white sauce: serve
the whole as hot as possible.

Eggs, 4: boiled 15 minutes, left till cold. The yolks of all,
whites of 2; third of pint of good melted butter or white sauce.

Salt as needed. | (

CHAP. Iv.]_ . SAUCES. 101

COMMON EGG SAUCE.

Boil a couple of eggs hard, and when they are quite cold cut
the whites and yolks separately ; mix them well, put them into
a very hot tureen, and pour boiling to them a quarter-pint of *
melted butter : stir, and serve the sauce immediately.

Whole eggs, 2; melted butter, 4 pint.

EGG SAUCE FOR CALF’S HEAD.

This is a provincial sauce, served sometimes with fish, and
with calf’s head also. ‘Thicken to the proper consistency with
flour and butter some good pale veal gravy, throw into it when
it boils from one to two large teaspoonsful of minced parsley,
add a slight squeeze of lemon-juice, a little cayenne, and then
the eggs.

' Veal gravy, 4 pint; flour, 1} oz.; butter, 2 ozs.; minced
parsley, 1 dessertspoonful; lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful; little
cayenne ; eggs, 3 to 4.

ENGLISH WHITE SAUCE.

_ Boil softly in halfa pint of well-flavoured pale veal gravy a few
very thin strips of fresh lemon-rind, for just sufficient time to
give their flavour to it; stir in a thickening of arrow-root, or of
flour and butter; add salt if needed, and mix with the gravy a
quarter-pint of boiling cream.

Good pale veal gravy, } pint ; third of rind of 1 lemon: 15 to
20 minutes. Freshly pounded mace, third of saltspoonful ;
butter, 1 to 2 ozs.; flour, 1 teaspoonful (or arrow-root an equal
quantity) ; cream, + pint.

Obs.—For the best kind of white sauce, see béchamel.

VERY COMMON WHITE SAUCE.

The neck and the feet of a fowl, nicely cleaned, and stewed
down in half a pint of water, until it is reduced to less than a
quarter-pint, with a thin strip or two of lemon-rind, a small
blade of mace, a small branch or two of parsley, alittle salt, and
half a dozen corns of pepper, then strained, thickened, and
flavoured by the preceding receipt, and mixed with something
more than half the quantity of cream, will answer for this sauce
extremely well; and if it be added, when made, to the liver of
the chicken, previously boiled for six minutes in the gravy, then
bruised to a smooth paste, and passed through a sieve, it will
become an excellent liver sauce. A little strained lemon-juice

"PR SM eee ee

102 MODERN COOKERY. [onap. Iv.

is generaliy added to it when it is ready to serve: it should be
stirred very briskly in.

DUTCH SAUCE. :

Put into a small saucepan the yolks of three fresh eggs, the
juice of a large lemon, three ounces of butter, a little salt and
nutmeg, and a wineglassful of water. Hold the saucepan over
a clear fire, and keep the sauce stirred until it nearly boils:
little cayenne may be added. The safest way of making all
sauces that will curdle by being allowed to boil, is to put them
into a jar, and to set the jar over the fire, in a saucepan of boil-
ing water, and then to stir the ingredients constantly until the
sauce is thickened sufficiently to serve.

Yolks of eggs, 3; juice, 1 lemon; butter, 3 ozs.; little salt
and nutmeg ; water, 1 wineglassful ; cayenne at pleasure.

Obs.—A_ small cupful of veal gravy, mixed with plenty of
blanched and chopped parsley, may be used instead of water for
ue sauce, when it is to be served with boiled veal, or with calf’s

ead.

FRICASSEE SAUCE.

Stir briskly, but by degrees, to the well-beaten yolks of two
large, or of three small fresh eggs, half a pint of common
English white sauce ; put it again into the saucepan, give it a
shake over the fire, but be extremely careful not to allow it to
boil, and just before it is served stir in a dessertspoonful of
strained lemon-juice. When meat or chickens are fricasseed,
they should be lifted from the saucepan with a slice, drained on
it from the sauce, and laid into a very hot dish before the eggs
are added, and when these are just set, the sauce should be
poured on them.

BREAD SAUCE.

Pour quite boiling on half a pint of the finest bread-crumbs,
an equal measure of new milk ; cover them closely with a plate,
and let the sauce remain for twenty or thirty minutes; put it
then into a delicately clean saucepan, with a small saltspoonful
of salt, half as much pounded mace, a little cayenne, and about
an ounce of fresh butter; keep it stirred constantly over a clear
fire for a few minutes, then mix with it a couple of spoonsful of
good cream, give it a boil, and serve it immediately. When
cream is not to be had, an additional spoonful or two of milk
must be used; and as the sauce ought to be perfectly smooth, it
is better to shake the crumbs through a cullender before the

aun a eget

CHAP. Iv. | SAUCES. 103

milk is poured to them; they should be of stale bread, and very
lightly grated. As some will absorb more liquid than others,
the cook must increase a little the above proportion, should it
be needed. Equal parts of milk and of thin cream make an
excellent bread sauce: more butter can be used to enrich it when
it is liked.

Bread-crumbs and new milk, each 4 pint (or any other
measure); soaked 20 to 80 minutes, or more. Salt, small
saltspoonful ; mace, half as much ; little cayenne; butter, 1 oz.:
boiled 4 to 5 minutes. 2 to 4 spoonsful of good cream (or
milk): 1 minute. Or: bread-crumbs, } pint; milk and cream,
each } pint; and from 2 to 4 spoonsful of either in addition.

Obs.—Very pale, strong veal gravy is sometimes poured on
the bread-crumbs, instead of milk; and these, after being soaked,
are boiled extremely dry, and then brought to the proper con-
sistency with rich cream. ‘The gravy may be highly flavoured
with mushrooms when this is done.

BREAD SAUCE WITH ONION.

Put into a very clean saucepan nearly half a pint of fine
bread-crumbs, and the white part of a large mild onion, cut into
quarters; pour to these three quarters of a pint of new milk,
and boil them very gently, keeping them often stirred, until the
onion is perfectly tender, which will be in from forty minutes to
an hour. Press the whole through a hair-sieve, which should
be as clean as possible; reduce the sauce by quick boiling,
should it be too thin; add a seasoning of salt and grated
nutmeg, an ounce of butter, and four spoonsful of cream, and
when it is of the proper thickness, dish, and send it quickly to
table.

Bread-crumbs, nearly 3 pint; white part of i large mild
onion ; new milk, ? pint: 40 to 60 minutes. Seasoning of salt
and grated nutmeg; butter, 1 oz.; cream, 4 tablespoonsful : to
be boiled till of a proper consistency.

Obs.—This is an excellent sauce for those who like a subdued
fiavour of onion in it; but as many persons object to any, the
cook should ascertain whether it be liked before she follows this
receipt.

COMMON LOBSTER SAUCE.

Add to half a pint of good melted butter, a tablespoonful of
essence of anchovies, a small half-saltspoonful of freshly
pounded mace, and less than a quarter one of cayenne. If a
_ couple of spoonsful of cream are at hand, stir them to the sauce

104 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. Iv. 4

when it boils; then put in the flesh of the tail and claws of a
small lobster cut into dice (or any other form) of equal size.
Keep the saucepan by the side of the fire until the fish is quite
heated through, but do not let the sauce boil again: serve’ it
very hot. A small quantity can be made on occasion with the
remains of a lobster which has been served at table.

Melted butter, } pint; essence of anchovies, 1 tablespoonful ;
pounded mace, small } saltspoonful; less than } one of cayenne;
cream (if added), 2 tablespoonsful ; flesh of small lobster.

GOOD LOBSTER SAUCE.

Select for this a perfectly fresh hen lobster; split the tail
carefully, and take out the inside coral; pound half of it in a
mortar very smoothly with less than an ounce of butter, rub it
through a hair-sieve, and put it aside. Cut the firm flesh of the

fish into dice of not less than half an inch in size; and when |
these are ready, make as much good melted butter as will ©

supply the quantity of sauce required for table, and if to be
served with a turbot, or other large fish, to a numerous com-
pany, let it be plentifully provided. Season it slightly with
essence of anchovies, and well with cayenne, mace, and salt; add
to it a few spoonsful of rich cream, and then mix a small portion
of it very gradually with the pounded coral; when this is
sufficiently liquefied, pour it into the sauce, and stir the whole

well together ; put in immediately the flesh of the fish, and heat _

the sauce thoroughly by the side of the fire, without allowing it
to boil, for if it should do so its fine colour would be destroyed.
The whole of the coral may be used for the sauce when no
portion of it is required for other purposes.

GOOD OYSTER SAUCE.

At the moment they are wanted for use, open three dozens of
fine plump native oysters ; save carefully and strain their liquor,
rinse them separately in it, put them into a very clean saucepan,
strain the liquor again, and pour it to them ; heat them slowly,
and. keep them from one to two minutes at the simmering point,
without allowing them to bozl, as that will render them hard.
Lift them out and beard them neatly; add to the liquor three
ounces of butter, smoothly mixed with a large dessertspoonful of
flour ; stir these without ceasing until they boil, and are per-
fectly mixed; then add to them gradually a quarter-pint, or

rather more, of new milk, or of thin cream (or equal parts of —

both), and continue the stirring until the sauce boils again; add
a little salt, should it be needed, and a small quantity of cayenne

}

\ CHAP. Iv.] SAUCES. ~ 105
in the finest powder ; put in the oysters, and keep the saucepan
_by the side of the fire, until the whole is thoroughly hot, and
begins to simmer, then turn the sauce into a well-heated tureen,
and send it immediately to table.
Small plump oysters, 3 dozens ; butter, 3 ozs.; flour, 1 large
dessertspoonful; the oyster-liquor; milk or cream, full + pint;
little salt and cayenne.

COMMON OYSTER SAUCE.

Prepare and plump two dozens of oysters as directed in the
receipt above; add their strained liquor to a quarter-pint of
thick melted butter made with milk, or with half milk and half
water ; stir the whole until it boils, put in the oysters, and when
they are quite heated through, send the sauce to table without
delay. Some persons like a little cayenne and essence of ancho-

__ vies added to it when it is served with fish ; others prefer the
unmixed flavour of the oysters.

Oysters, 2 dozens; their liquor; melted butter, 3 pint.
(Little cayenne and 1 dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies
when liked.) |

SHRIMP SAUCE.

The fish for this sauce should be very fresh. Shell quickly
_one pint of shrimps, and mix them with half a pint of melted but-
ter, to which a few drops of essence of anchovies, and a little
mace and cayenne, have been added. As soon as the shrimps
are heated through, dish, and serve the sauce, which ought not
to boil after they are put in. Many persons add a few spoonsful
of rich cream to all shell-fish sauces.

Shrimps, 1 pint; melted butter, 4 pint; essence of anchovies,
1 teaspoonful ; mace, 3 teaspoonful; cayenne, very little.

ANCHOVY SAUCE.

To halfa pint of good melted butter add three dessertspoonsful
of essence of anchovies, a quarter-teaspoonful of mace, and a
rather high seasoning of cayenne; or pound the flesh of two or
three fine mellow anchovies very smooth, mix it with the boiling
butter, simmer these for a minute or two, strain the sauce if
needful, add the spices, give it a boil, and serve it.

Melted butter, 3 pint; essence of anchovies, 3 dessertspoonsful ;
mace, } teaspoonful; cayenne, to taste. Or, 3 large anchovies
finely pounded, and the same proportions of butter and spice.

+ 1S eee J
fh
sot IY

106 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV.

CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH.

Knead very smoothly together with a strong bladed knife, a
large teaspoonful of flour with three ounces of good butter ; stir
them in a very clean saucepan or stewpan, over a gentle fire until
the butter is dissolved, then throw in a little salt, and some

cayenne, give the whole one minute’s simmer, and add, very

gradually, half a pint of good cream; keep the sauce constantly
stirred until it boils, then mix with it a dessertspoonful of
essence of anchovies, and half as much Chili vinegar or lemon-
juice. The addition of shelled shrimps, or lobster cut in dice, will
convert this at once into a most excellent sauce of either. Pounded
mace may be added to it with the cayenne; and it may be
thinned with a few spoonsful of milk should it be too thick.
Omit the essence of anchovies, and mix with it some parsley
boiled very green, and minced, and it becomes a good sauce for
boiled poultry.

Butter, 3 ozs.; flour, 1 large teaspoonful: 2 to 3 minutes.
Cream, 4 pint; essence of anchovies, 1 large dessertspoonful
(more if liked) ; Chili vinegar or lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful ;
salt, 1 saltspoonful.

SHARP MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
' (English Receipt.)

For a rich sauce of this kind, mix a dessertspoonful of flour
with four ounces of good butter, but with from two to three
ounces only for common occasions; knead them together until
they resemble a smooth paste, then proceed exactly as for the
sauce above, but substitute good pale veal gravy, or strong,
pure-flavoured veal broth, or shin of beef stock (which, if well
made, has little colour), for the cream; and when these have
boiled for two or three minutes, stir in a tablespoonful of
common vinegar, and one of Chili vinegar, with as much
cayenne as will flavour the sauce well, and salt, should it be
needed ; throw in from two to three dessertspoonsful of finely-
minced parsley, give the whole a boil, and it will be ready to
serve. A tablespoonful of mushroom catsup or of Harvey’s
sauce may be added with the vinegar when the colour of the
sauce is immaterial. It may be served with boiled calf’s head,
or with boiled eels with good effect ; and, as we have directed
in another part of this volume, various kinds of cold meat and
fish may be re-warmed for table in it. With alittle more flour,
and a flavouring of essence of anchovies, it will make, without

CHAP. IV. | SAUCES. 107

the parsley, an excellent sauce for these last, when they are
first dressed.

Butter, 2 to 4 ozs.; flour, 1 dessertspoonful; pale veal gravy
or strong broth, or shin of beef stock, 4 pint; cayenne; salt,
if needed ; common vinegar, 1 tablespoonful; Chili vinegar, 1
tablespoonful. (Catsup or Harvey’s sauce, according to circum-
stances.)

FRENCH MAITRE D'HOTEL,* OR STEWARD’S SAUCE.

Add to half a pint of rich, pale veal gravy, well thickened
with the white rowx of page 96, a good seasoning of pepper,
salt, minced parsley, and lemon-juice; or make the thickening
with a small tablespoonful of flour, and a couple of ounces of
butter ; keep these stirred constantly over a very gentle fire from
ten to fifteen minutes, then pour to them the gravy, boiling, in
small portions, mixing the whole well as it is added, and letting
it boil up between each, for unless this be done, the butter will
be likely to float upon the surface. Simmer the sauce for a
few minutes, and skim it well, then add salt should it be needed,
a tolerable seasoning of pepper or of cayenne, in fine powder,
from two to three teaspoonsful of minced parsley, and the
strained juice of a small lemon. For some dishes, this sauce is
thickened with the yolks of eggs, about four to the pint. The
French work into their sauces generally a small bit of fresh
butter, just before they are taken from the fire, to give them
mellowness: this is done usually for the Maitre d’Hotel.

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE MAIGRE,[ OR WITHOUT GRAVY.

Substitute half a pint of good melted butter for the gravy,
and add to it the same seasonings as above. A double quantity
of these sauces will be needed when they are required to cover
large fish; in that case they should be thick enough to adhere
to it well.

Melted butter, 4 pint; seasoning of salt and pepper, or
cayenne; minced parsley, 2 to 3 teaspoonsful; juice 1 small
lemon.

COLD MAITRE D'HOTEL, OR STEWARD’S SAUCE.

Work well together two or three ounces of fresh butter, with
some pepper, salt, minced parsley, and the juice of a lemon.
This is frequently put into broiled fish, or laid in the dish under
beef steaks, broiled kidneys, and various other meats.

* The Maitre d’Hotel is, properly, the House Steward.
+ Maigre, made without meat.

abi |

108 MODERN COOKERY. [cuap. IV.

‘

THE LADY'S SAUCE.
(For Fish.)

_ Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster
with a small slice of butter, and some cayenne; rub it through
a hair-sieve, gather it together, and mix it very smoothly with
from half to three quarters of a pint of sauce tournée, or of
cream: fish-sauce, previously well seasoned with cayenne and
salt, and moderately with pounded mace; bring it to the pornt
of boiling only, stir in quickly, but gradually, a tablespoonful of
strained lemon-juice, and serve it very hot. When neither
cream nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich melted butter,
mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies, and
well seasoned. ‘The fine colour of the coral will be destroyed
by boiling. This sauce, which the French call Sauce dl Aurore,
may be served with brill, boiled soles, grey mullet, and some
few other kinds of fish: it is quickly made when the lobster
butter of Chapter XIV. is in the house.

Coral of lobster, pounded; cream-sauce, or sauce tournée
(thickened pale veal gravy), 4 to 2 pint; lemon-juice, 1 table-
spoonful ; salt, cayenne, and mace, as needed. Or: rich melted
butter, instead of other sauce; essence of anchovies, 2 dessert-
spoonsful ; other seasoning, as above.

Obs.—The proportion of spices here must, of course, depend
on the flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have
received.

GENEVEVE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GENEVOISE.

Cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-fiavoured
ham, and put them with half asmall carrot, four cloves, a blade
of mace, two or three very small sprigs of lemon-thyme, and of
parsley, and rather more than an ounce of butter into a stewpan,
just simmer them from three quarters of an hour to a whole
our, then stir in a teaspoonful of flour; continue the slow
stewing for about five minutes, and pour in by degrees a pint of
good boiling veal gravy, and let the sauce again simmer softly
for nearly an hour. Strain it off, heat it in a clean saucepan,
and when it boils, stir in a wineglassful and a half of good sherry
or Madeira, two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice, some cayenne, a
little salt if needed, and a small tablespoonful of flour, very
smoothly mixed with two ounces of butter. Give the whole a
boil after the thickening is added, pour a portion of the sauce

oe.

CHAP. IV. | | SAUCES. 109

over the fish (it is served principally with salmon and trout),
and send the remainder very hot to table in a tureen.

Lean of ham, 3 ozs.; 3} small carrot; 4 to 6 cloves; mace,
1 large blade; thyme and parsley, 3 or 4 small sprigs of each;
butter, 1 to 14 oz.: 50 to 60 minutes. Veal gravy, 1 pint: 2 to
1 hour. Sherry or Madeira, 13 glassful; lemon-juice, 2 table-
spoonsful; seasoning of cayenne and salt; flour, 1 tablespoonful ;
butter, 2 ozs.: 1 minute.

Obs.—A teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually
added to the sauce, though it is scarcely required.

SAUCE ROBERT.

Cut into small dice, four or five large onions, and brown them
in a stewpan with three ounces of butter, and a dessertspoonful
of flour. When of a deep yellow brown, pour to them half a
pint of beef or of veal gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen
minutes ; skim the sauce, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and,
at the moment of serving, mix in a dessertspoonful of made-
mustard.

Large onions, 4 or 5; butter, 3 ozs.; flour, dessertspoonful:

10 to 15 minutes. Gravy, } pint: minutes. Mustard,
dessertspoonful.

SAUCE PIQUANTE.

Brown lightly, in an ounce and a half of butter, a tablespoon-
ful of minced eschalots, or three of onions; adda teaspoonful of
flour when they are partially done; pour to them half a pint of
gravy or of good broth, and when it boils, add three chilies, a
bay-leaf, and a very small bunch of thyme. Let these simmer
for twenty minutes; take out the thyme and bay-leaf, add a
high seasoning of black pepper, and half a wineglassful of the
best vinegar. A quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne may be sub-
stituted for the chilies.

Eschalots, 1 tablespoonful, or three of onions; flour, 1 tea-
spoonful; butter, 13 0z.: 10 to 15 minutes. Gravy or broth,
3 pint; chilies, 3; bay-leaf; thyme, small bunch: 20 minutes.
Pepper, plenty; vinegar, 4 wineglassful.

- EXCELLENT HORSERADISH SAUCE.
(To serve hot or cold with roast beef.)

Wash, and wipe a stick of young. horseradish, grate it as

small as possible on a fine grater, then with two ounces (or a

couple of large tablespoonsful) of it, mix a small teaspoonful of
salt, and four tablespoonsful of good cream ; stir in briskly and

110 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV.

by degrees, three dessertspoonsful of vinegar, one of which
should be Chili vinegar when the horseradish is mild. To heat
the sauce, put it into a small and delicately clean saucepan, hold
it over, but do not place it upon the fire, and stir it without
intermission until it is near the point of simmering, but do not
allow it to boil, or it will curdle instantly.

Horseradish pulp, 2 ozs. (or, 2 large tablespoonsful) ; salt, 1
teaspoonful ; good cream, 4 tablespoonsful ; vinegar, 3 dessert-
spoonsful (of which one should be Chili when the root is mild).

Obs.—Common English salad-mixture is often added to the
grated horseradish when the sauce is to be served cold.

_ HOT HORSERADISH SAUCE.
(To serve with boiled or stewed meat, or fish.)

Mix three ounces of young tender grated horseradish with
half a.pint of good brown gravy, and let it stand by the side of
the firé until it is on the point of boiling; add salt if required,
a teaspoonful of made-mustard, and a dessertspoonful of garlic
or of eschalot vinegar, if at hand; if not, substitute Chili vine-
gar, or twice as much common vinegar for it.

Some cooks stew horseradish in vinegar for ten minutes,
and after having dra. it from this, mix it with nearly half a
pint of thick melted butter.

Horseradish, grated, 3 ozs.; brown gravy, } pint; made-
mustard, 1 teaspoonful ; eschalot or garlic vinegar, 1 dessert-
spoonful (or, Chili vinegar, same quantity, or common vinegar,
twice as much). |

CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S OWN SAUCE FOR MANY MEATS.

Throw into a small basin, a heaped saltspoonful of good ca-
yemne pepper, in very fine powder, and half the quantity of
salt ;* add a small dessertspoonful of well-refined, pounded, and
sifted sugar ; mix these thoroughly ; then pour in a tablespoon-
ful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon, two of Harvey’s sauce,
a teaspoonful of the very best mushroom catsup (or of cavice),
and three tablespoonsful, or a small wineglassful, of port wine.
Heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of boiling
water, or turn it into a jar, and place this in the water. Serve
it directly it is ready with geese or ducks, tame or wild; roast
pork, venison, fawn, a grilled blade-bone, or any other broil.
A slight flavour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to

* Characteristically, the salt of this sauce ought, perhaps, to prevail more
strongly over ihe swgar, but it will be found for m stes sufficiently piquant

as it ise ty,

CHAP. IV.} SAUCES. 111

it at pleasure. Many persons use it with fish. It is good cold;
and, if bottled directly it is made, may be stored for several
days. Itis the better for being mixed some hours before it is
served. The proportion of cayenne may be doubled when a very
pungent sauce is desired.

Good cayenne pepper in fine powder, 1 heaped saltspoonful ;
salt, half as much; pounded sugar, 1 small dessertspoonful ;
strained lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; Harvey’s sauce, 2 table-
spoonsful ; best mushroom catsup (or cavice), 1 teaspoonful ;
port wine, 3 tablespoonsful, or small wineglassful. (Little es-
chalot, or garlic-vinegar at pleasure.)

Obs.—This sauce 1s exceedingly good when mixed with the
brown gravy of a hash or stew, or with that which is served
with game or other dishes.

POOR MAN'S SAUCE.
(Served with Turkey Poults.)

Mix with four tablespoonsful of minced eschalots, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, nearly as much pepper, two tablespoonsful of
water, and three of good sharp vinegar. Boil the sauce for a
few minutes, and serve it hot; or send it; to table cold, when it
is liked so. Vinegar may entirely supply the place of the
water in this case, and a spoonful or two of oil may be mixed
with it. A small dessertspoonful of minced parsley, tarragon,
or chervil, is likewise sometimes mixed with the eschalots.
Their strong flavour may be in some measure weakened by
steeping them for an hour or more in a pint of cold water after
they are minced.

SALAD DRESSING.

For a salad of moderate size pound very smoothly the yolks
of two hard-boiled eggs with a small teaspoonful of unmade
mustard, half as much sugar in fine powder, and a saltspoonful
of salt. Mix gradually with these a small cup of cream, or the
same quantity of very pure oil, and two tablespoonsful of vine-
gar. More salt and acid can be added at pleasure; but the
latter usually predominates too much in English salads. <A few
drops of Chili or of cayenne vinegar will improve this receipt.

Hard yolks of eggs, 2; unmade mustard, 1 small teaspoonful ;
sugar, half as much; salt, 1 saltspoonful; cream or oil, small
cupful ; vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful.

Obs. 1.—To some tastes a teaspoonful or more of eschalot
vinegar would be agitacceptable addition to this sauce, which

may be otherwise varied in numberless ways. Cucumber, or

yee: - , Te i ae ye
=e ‘ he ed sed ive) yy
7 t . Sirk! {eh aoe

112 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Iv.

tarragon-vinegar may be substituted for other, and small quan-
tities of soy, cavice, essence of anchovies, or catsup may in turn
be used to flavour the compound. The salad-bowl too may be
rubbed with a cut clove of garlic, to give the whole composition
a very slight flavour of it. The eggs should be boiled for
fifteen minutes, and allowed to become quite cold always before
they are pounded, or the mixture will not be smooth : if it should
curdle, which it will sometimes do, if not carefully made, add to
it the yolk of a very fresh unboiled egg.

Obs. 2.—As we have before had occasion to remark, garlic,
when very sparingly and judiciously used, imparts a remarkably
fine savour to a sauce or gravy, and neither a strong nor a
coarse one, as it does when used in larger quantities. The
veriest morsel (or, as the French call it, a mere soupgon) of the
root, is sufficient to give this agreeable piquancy, but unless the
proportion be extremely small, the effect will be quite different.
The Italians dress their salads upon a round of delicately toasted
bread, which is rubbed with garlic, saturated with oil, and
sprinkled with cayenne, before it is laid into the bowl: they
also eat the bread thus prepared, but with less of oil, and un-
toasted often, before their meals, as a digestor.

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.

Stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a
large spoonful of oil, and when the salt is dissolved, mix with
them four additional spoonsful of oil, and pour the whole over
the salad ; let it be well turned, and then add a couple of spoons-
ful of tarragon vinegar ; mix the whole thoroughly, and serve it
without delay. The salad should not be dressed in this way
until the instant before it is wanted for table: the proportions
of salt and pepper can be increased at pleasure, and common, or
cucumber vinegar may be substituted for the tarragon, which,
however, is more frequently used in France than any other.

Salt, 1 spoonful; pepper, 3 as much ; oil, 5 salad-spoonsful ;
tarragon, or other vinegar, 2 spoonsful.

OUR OWN SAUCE FOR SALAD OR COLD MBAT.

Mix with the yolks of two very fresh unboiled eggs a half-
saltspoonful of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and a slight
grating of nutmeg; then stir very gradually to them three
tablespoonsful of oil of the finest quality, working the sauce like
the Mayonnaise; and when it is perfectly smooth, add three
spoonsful of good meat-jelly, and two of cucumber-vinegar.
The shin of beef stock for gravies, which will be strongly

CHAP. IV } SAUCES. 113

jellied when cold, will answer very well for this sauce when
no richer is at hand: a little Chili vinegar is a good addition
to it.

MAYONNAISE.
(A very fine sauce for cold meat, poultry, fish, or salad.)

Put into a large basin the yolks only of two fine and very
fresh eggs, carefully freed from the germs, with a little salt and
cayenne; stir these well together, then add about a teaspoonful
of the purest salad oil, and work the mixture round with a
wooden spoon until it appears like cream. Pour in by slow
degrees nearly half a pint of oil, continuing at each interval
to work the sauce as at first until it resumes the smoothness of
a custard, and not a particle of the oil remains visible ; then add
a couple of tablespoonsful of plain or of tarragon vinegar, and
one of cold water to whiten the sauce. <A bit of clear veal jelly
the size of an egg will improve it greatly; and a morsel of
garlic not larger than a pea, bruised as fine as possible, will give
it a very agreeable relish, even to persons to whom garlic gene-
rally is distasteful. In lieu of this, a few drops of eschalot
vinegar may be stirred in; and the flavour may be varied with
lemon-juice, and cucumber, or Chili vinegar at choice. The
reader who may have a prejudice against the unboiled eggs
which enter into the composition of the Mayonnaise, will find
that the most fastidious taste would not detect their being raw,
if the sauce be well made; and persons who dislike oil may
partake of it in this form, without being aware of its presence,
provided always that it be perfectly fresh, and pure in flavour,
for otherwise it is easily perceptible.

Yolks of fresh unboiled eggs, 2 ; salt, 3 saltspoonful or rather
more; cayenne; oil, full third of pint; common, or tarragon
vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful; cold water, 1 tablespoonful ; garlic,
morsel size of pea (or few drops of eschalot vinegar). Meat
jelly (if at hand), size of an egg.

bs.—When a much larger proportion of vinegar is liked, a
third yolk of egg should be used, or the sauce will be too thin.
It is sometimes coloured green with the juice of parsley, and
other herbs. A spoonful or two of cold béchamel, or of good
white sauce, is always an improvement to it.

REMOULADE.

This differs little from an ordinary salad dressing. Pound
very smoothly indeed the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs
with a teaspoonful of mustard, half as much salt, and some ca-

cated >). ee oe | ee
vr . :
%

114 MODERN COOKERY. . [cuar. Iv.

yenne, or white pepper. Mix gradually with them, working the
whole well together, two or three tablespoonsful of oil and two
of vinegar. Should the sauce be curdled, pour it by degrees to
the yolk of a raw egg, stirring it well round as directed for the
Mayonnaise. A spoonful of tarragon, cucumber, or eschalot-
vinegar, may be added with very good effect; and to give it
increased relish, a teaspoonful of cavice, or a little of Harvey’s
sauce, and a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar may be thrown:
into it. This last is an excellent addition to all cold sauces, or
salad dressings: the Rajah’s sauce (see Appendix), when good, is
of finer flavour, and more pungent.

Hard yolks of 2 or of 3 eggs; mustard, 1 teaspoonful (more
when liked); salt, 4 teaspoonful; pepper or cayenne; oil, 3
tablespoonsful; vinegar, 2. If curdled, yolk of 1 raw egg.
Good additions: tarragon or eschalot, or cucumber-vinegar, 1
tablespoonful ; Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful, or Rajah’s sauce,
halfas much. Cavice or Harvey’s sauce at pleasure.

Obs.—A. dessertspoonful of eschalots very finely minced are
sometimes pounded with the yolks of eggs for this sauce: a
morsel of garlic, not larger than half a hazel nut, may be sub-

stituted for them advantageously.

FENNEL SAUCE.

Strip from the stems, wash very clean, and boil quickly in
salt and water untilitis quite tender, a handful of young fennel;
press the water well from it, mince it very small, and mix it
gradually. with the quantity of melted butter required for
table:

Fennel, small handful; 10 minutes, or until quite tender.
Melted butter, 1 to 3 pint; little salt.

Obs.—The French use good pale veal gravy thickened with
flour and butter for this sauce.

PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

Proceed exactly as for the fennel, but boil the parsley four or
five minutes less; and be careful to press the water from it tho-
roughly. For an improved sauce, substitute béchamel or white
melted butter for the common melted butter. Chervil is boiled,
chopped, and mixed with gravy, or with butter in the same
way.
Melted butter, or thickened veal gravy, third of pint ;
parsley, boiled and minced, 1 dessertspoontful.

CHAP. IV. ] . SAUCES! 1/05" 115

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR MACKEREL.

Cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite
young gooseberries, wash them well, just cover them with cold
water and boil them very gently indeed until they are tender ;
drain them well, and mix with them a small quantity of melted
butter made with rather less flour than usual. Some eaters
prefer the mashed gooseberries without any addition; others
like that of a little ginger. The best way of making this sauce
is to turn the gooseberries into a hair-sieve to drain, then to
press them through it with a wooden spoon, and to stir them in
a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire with from half toa
whole teaspoonful of sugar, just to soften their extreme acidity,
and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut. When
the fruit is not passed through the sieve it is an improvement
to seed it.

COMMON SORREL SAUCE.

Strip from the stalks and the large fibres, from one to a
couple of quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel; wash it very clean,
and put it into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan (or into a
German enamelled one, which would be far better), without any
water ; add to it a small slice of good butter, some pepper and
salt, and stew it gently, keeping it well stirred, until it is
exceedingly tender, that it may not burn; then drain it ona
sieve, or press the liquid well from it; chop it as fine as_pos-
sible ; and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two
of gravy, or the same quantity of cream or milk, mixed with a
half-teaspoonful of flour, or with only a fresh slice of good
butter. The beaten yolk of an egg or two stirred in just as the
sorrel is taken from the fire will soiten the sauce greatly, and a
saltspoonful of pounded sugar will also be an improvement.

ASPARAGUS SAUCE, FOR LAMB CHOPS.

Cut the green tender points of some young asparagus into
half-inch lengths, wash them well, drain and throw them into
plenty of boiling salt and water. When they are quite tender,
which may be in from ten to fifteen minutes, turn them into a
hot strainer and drain the water thoroughly from them; put
them, at the instant of serving, into half a pint of thickened
veal gravy (see Sauce Tournée), mixed with the yolks of a
couple of eggs, and well seasoned with salt and cayenne, or
white pepper; or, into an equal quantity of good melted butter:
add to this. last a squeeze of lemon-juice. ‘The asparagus will

116 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv.

~ ‘become yellow if reboiled, or if left long in the sauce before it

is served.

Asparagus points, 3 pint: boiled 10 to 15 minutes, longer if
not quite tender. Thickened veal gravy, 3} pint; yolks of
egos, 2. Or: good melted butter, } pint; lemon-juice, small

dessertspoonful, seasoning of salt and white pepper.

GREEN MINT SAUCE, FOR ROAST LAMB.

The mint for this sauce should be fresh and young, for the
leaves when old are tough. Strip them from the stems, wash
them with great nicety, and drain them on a sieve or dry them
in a cloth. Chop them very fine, put them into a sauce-tureen,
and to three heaped tablespoonsful of the mint add two of
pounded sugar; mix them well, and then add gradually six
tablespoonsful of good vinegar. The sauce made thus is
excellent, but Lisbon sugar can be used for it when preferred,
and all the proportions can be varied to the taste. It is com-
monly served too liquid, and not sufficiently sweetened ; and it
will be found much more wholesome, and generally far more
palatable made by this receipt.

Young mint minced, 3 heaped tablespoonsful ; pounded
sugar, 2 tablespoonsful; vinegar, 6 tablespoonsful.

CAPER SAUCE.

Stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three
to four dessertspoonsful of capers; add a little of the vinegar,
and dish the sauce as soon as it boils. Keep it stirred after the
berries are added: part of them may be minced and a little
Chili vinegar substituted for their own. Pickled nasturtiums
make a very good sauce, and their flavour is sometimes pre-
ferred to that of the capers. For a large joint, increase the
quantity of butter to half a pint.

Melted butter, third of pint; capers, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful.

BROWN CAPER SAUCE.

Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed
for Sauce Tournée, and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers,
and a dessertspoonful of the pickle liquor, or of Chili vinegar,
Ma cayenne if the former be used, and a proper seasoning
of salt.

Thickened veal, or beef gravy, 3 pint; capers, 2 tablespoons-
ful; caper-liquor or Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful,

CHAP. Iv.] SAUCES. 117

CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH.

To nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six
spoonsful of strong veal gravy or jelly, atablespoonful of essence
of anchovies, and some Chili vinegar or cayenne. When there
is no gravy at hand substitute a half wineglassful of mushroom
catsup, or of Harvey’s sauce; though these deepen the colour
more than is desirable.

COMMON CUCUMBER SAUCE.

Pare, slice, dust slightly with pepper, and with flour, two or
three young cucumbers, and fry them a fine brown, in a little
butter, or dissolve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan, or
iron saucepan, and shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve
to fifteen minutes ; pour to them, by degrees, nearly half a pint
of strong beef broth, or of brown gravy ; add salt, and more
pepper if required; stew the whole for five minutes, and send
the sauce very hot to table. A minced onion may be browned
with the cucumbers when it is liked, and a spoonful of vinegar
added to them before they are served.

Cucumbers, 2 or 3; butter, 14 0z.; broth or gravy, nearly 4
pint ; salt, pepper.

ANOTHER COMMON SAUCE OF CUCUMBERS.

Cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sauce.
Pare and slice a couple, or three, should they be small, and put
them into a saucepan, in which two ounces, or rather more, of
butter have been dissolved, and are beginning to boil; place
them high over the fire, that they may stew as softly as possible
without taking colour, for three quarters of an hour, or longer
should they require it; add to them a good seasoning of white
pepper, and some salt, when they are half done, and just before
they are served stir to them half a teaspoonful of flour, mixed
with a morsel of butter; strew in some minced parsley, give it
a boil, and finish with a spoonful of good vinegar.

WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE.

Quarter some young quickly grown cucumbers, without many
seeds in them; empty them of these, and take off the rinds. Cut
them into inch lengths, and boil them from fifteen to eighteen
minutes in salt and water; squeeze, and work them through a
sieve; mix them with a few spoonsful of béchamel, or thick white
sauce; do not let them doz! again, but serve them very hot. A
sauce of better flavour is made by boiling the cucumbers in veal

118 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv.

gravy well seasoned, and stirring in the beaten yolks of two or
three eggs, and a little Chili vinegar or lemon-juice, at the in-
stant of serving. Another also of cucumbers sliced, and stewed
in butter, but without being at all browned, and then boiled ir
pale veal gravy, which must be thickened with rich cream, i
excellent. A morsel of sugar improves this sauce.

Cucumbers, 3: 15 to 18 minutes. White sauce, } pint.

WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button
mushrooms; clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel,
and throw them into cold water, slightly salted, as they are
done; drain them well, or dry them in a soft cloth, and throw
them into half a pint of boiling béchamel (see page 97), or of
white sauce made with very fresh milk, or thin cream, ‘thickened,
with a tablespoonful of flour, and two ounces of butter. Sim-
mer the mushrooms from ten to twenty minutes, or until they
are quite tender, and dish the sauce, which should be properly
seasoned with salt, mace, and cayenne.

Mushrooms, } pint; white sauce, 4 pint; seasoning of salt,
mace, and cayenne: 10 minutes.

ANOTHER MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Prepare from half to a whole pint of very small mushroom-
buttons with great nicety, and throw them into as much sauce
tournée; when they are tender add a few spoonsful of rich
cream, give the whole a boil, and serve it. Hither of these
sauces may be sent to table with boiled poultry, breast of veal,
or veal-cutlets: the sauce tournée should be thickened rather
more than usual when it is to be used in this receipt. |

Mushrooms and sauce tournée each, } to whole pint : stewed
tilltender. Cream, 4 to 8 tablespoonsful.

BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE.

* Very small flaps, peeled and freed entirely from the fur, will
answer for this sauce. Leave them whole, or quarter them, and
stew them tender in some rich brown gravy; give a full season-
ing of mace and cayenne, add thickening, and salt if needed, and
a tablespoonful of good mushroom catsup.

COMMON TOMATA SAUCE.

Tomatas are so juicy when ripe, that they require but little
liquid to reduce them to a proper consistency for sauce; and

CHAP. iv.] ) <2 SAUCES. 119

they vary so exceedingly in size and quality that it is difficult to
give precise directions for the exact quantity which is needed
for them. Take off the stalks, halve the tomatas, and gently
squeeze out the seeds and watery pulp; then stew them softly
with a few spoonsful of gravy or of strong broth until they are
quite melted. Press the whole through a hair-sieve, and heat
it afresh with a little additional gravy should it be too thick,
and some cayenne, and salt. Serve it very hot.

Fine ripe tomatas, 6 or 8; gravy or strong broth, 4 table- —
spoonsful: 3 to $ hour, or longer if needed. Salt and cayenne
sufficient to season the sauce, and two or three spoonsful more
of gravy if required.

Obs.—For a large tureen of this sauce, increase the propor-
tions; and should it be at first too liquid, reduce it by quick
boiling. , When neither gravy nor broth is at hand, the tomatas
may be stewed perfectly tender, but very gently, in a couple of
ounces of butter, with some cayenne and salt only, or with the
addition of a very little finely minced onion; then rubbed
through a sieve, and heated, and served without any addition,
or with only that of a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar; or, when
the colour is not a principal consideration, with a few spoonsful
of rich cream, smoothly mixed with a little flour to prevent its
curdling. ‘The sauce must be stirred without ceasing should the
last be added, and boiled for four or five minutes.

A FINER TOMATA SAUCE.

Stew very gently a dozen fine red tomatas, prepared as for
the preceding receipt, with two or three sliced eschalots, four or
five chilies, or a capsicum or two, or in lieu of either, with a
quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a few small dice of lean
ham, and half a cupful of rich gravy. Stir these often, and
when the tomatas are reduced quite to a smooth pulp, press
them through a sieve; put them into a clean saucepan, with a
few spoonsful more of rich gravy, or Espagnole, add salt, if
needed, boil the sauce, stirring it well, for ten minutes, and
serve it very hot. When the gravy is exceedingly good, and
highly flavoured, the ham may be omitted: a dozen small
mushrooms, nicely cleaned, may also be sliced, and stewed with
the tomatas, instead of the eschalots, when their flavour is pre-
ferred, or they may be added with them. The exact proportion
of liquid used is immaterial, for should the sauce be too thin, it
may be reduced by rapid boiling, and diluted with more gravy
if too thick.

120 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV.

BOILED APPLE SAUCE.

Apples of a fine cooking sort require but a very small portion of
liquid to boil down well and smoothly for sauce, if placed over a
gentle fire in a close-shutting saucepan, and simmered as softly as
possible, until they are well broken; and their flavour is injured
by the common mode of adding so much to them, that the .
greater part must be drained off again before they are sent to
table. Pare the fruit quickly, quarter it, and be careful entirely
to remove the cores; put one tabiespoonful of water into a
saucepan before the apples are thrown in; and proceed, as we
have directed, to simmer them until they are nearly ready to
serve: finish the sauce by the receipt which follows.

Apples, 3 lb.; water, 1 tablespoonful; stewed very softly : 30
to 60 minutes.

Obs.—These proportions are sufficient only for a small tureen
of the sauce, and should be doubled for a large one.

BAKED APPLE SAUCE.
(Good.)

Put a tablespoonful of water into a quart basin, and fill it with
good boiling apples, pared, quartered, and carefully cored: put
a plate over, and set them into a moderate oven for about an
hour, or until they are reduced quite to a pulp ; beat them smooth
with a clean wooden spoon, adding to them a little sugar, and a
morsel of fresh butter, when these are liked, though they will
scarcely be required.

The sauce made thus is far superior to that which is boiled.
When no other oven is at hand, a Dutch or an American one
would probably answer for it; but we cannot assert this on our
own experience.

Good boiling apples, 1 quart: baked, 1 hour (more or less
according to the quality of the fruit, and temperature of the
oven); sugar, 1 oz.; butter, 4 oz.

BROWN APPLE SAUCE.

Stew gently down to a thick and perfectly smooth marmalade,
a pound of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured boiling
apples, in about the third of a pint of rich brown gravy : season
the sauce rather highly with black pepper or cayenne, and serve
it very hot. Currie sauce will make an excellent substitute for

the gravy when a very piquante accompaniment is wanted for
pork or other rich meats.

CHAP. Iv. | SAUCES. 121

__Apples pared and cored, 1 lb.; good brown gravy, third of
pint: ?to1j hour. Pepper or cayenne as needed.

WHITE ONION SAUCE.

Strip the skin from some large white onions, and after having
taken off the tops and roots, cut them in two, throw them into
cold water as they are done, cover them plentifully with more,
and boil them very tender; lift them out, drain, and then press
the water thoroughly from them; chop them small, rub them
through a sieve or strainer, put them into a little rich melted
butter, mixed with a spoonful or two of cream or milk, add a
seasoning of salt, give the sauce a boil, and serve it very hot.
Portugal onions, when they can be obtained, are superior to any
others, both for this and for most other purposes of cookery.

For the finest kind of onion sauce, see Soubise, below.

BROWN ONION SAUCE.

Cut off both ends of the onions, and slice them into a sauce-
pan in which two ounces of butter have been dissolved; keep
them stewing over a clear fire until they are lightly coloured ;
then pour to them half a pint of brown gravy, and when they
have boiled until they are perfectly tender, work the sauce alto-
gether through a strainer, season it with a little cayenne, and
serve it very hot.

ANOTHER BROWN ONION SAUCE.
Mince the onions, stew them in butter until well coloured,
stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, shake the stewpan over the
fire for three or four minutes, pour in only as much broth

or gravy as will leave the sauce tolerably thick, season, and
serve it.

SOUBISE.
(English Receipt.)

Skin, slice, and mince quickly, two pounds’ weight of the
white part only of some fine mild onions, and stew them in from
two to.three ounces of good butter, over a very gentle fire, until
they are reduced to a pulp, then pour to them three quarters of
a pint of rich veal gravy ; add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, if
needed ; skim off the fat entirely, press the sauce through a
sieve, heat it in a clean stewpan, mix it with a quarter-pint of
rich boiling cream, and serve it directly.

Onions, 2 lbs.; butter, 2 to 3 ozs.: 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Veal gravy, } pint; salt, cayenne: 5 minutes. Cream, 4 pint.

122 MODERN. COOKERY. [cHAP. Iv.

SOUBISE.
(French Recezpt.)

Peel some fine white onions, and trim away all tough an
discoloured parts; mince them small, and throw them into
plenty of boiling water ; when they have boiled quickly for five
minutes, drain them well in a sieve, then stew them very softly
indeed in an ounce or two of fresh butter, until they are dry and
perfectly tender ; stir to them as much béchamel as will bring
them to the consistency of very thick peas soup, pass the whole
through a strainer, pressing the onion strongly that none may
remain behind, and heat the sauce afresh, without allowing it to
boil. A small half-teaspoonful of pounded sugar is sometimes
added to this soubise.

White part of onions, 2 lbs.: blanched 5 minutes. Butter,
2 ozs.: 30 to 50 minutes. Béchamel, 2 to 1 pint, or more.

Obs.—These sauces are served more particularly with lamb
or mutton cutlets, than with any other meats; but they would
probably find many approvers if sent to table with roast
mutton, or boiled veal. Half the quantity given above will be
sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.

MILD RAGOUT OF GARLIC, OR, L'AIL A LA BORDELAISE.

Divide some fine cloves of garlic, strip off the skin, and when
all are ready, throw them into plenty of boiling water, slightly
salted; in five minutes drain this from them, and pour in as
much more, which should also be quite boiling; continue to
change it every five or six minutes until the garlic is quite
tender ; throw in a moderate proportion of salt the last time to
give it the proper flavour. Drain it thoroughly, and serve it in
the dish with roast mutton, or put it into good brown gravy, or
white sauce for table. By changing very frequently the water
in which it is boiled, the root will be deprived of its naturally
pungent flavour and smell, and rendered extremely mild ; when
it is not wished to be quite so much so, change the water every
ten minutes only.

Garlic, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes or more. Water to be
changed every 5 or 6 minutes; or every 10 minutes when not
wished so very mild. Gravy or sauce, | pint.

MILD ESCHALOT SAUCE. |
Prepare and boil from half to a whole pint of eschalots by

the preceding receipt; unless very large, they will be tender in
about fifteen minutes, sometimes in less, in which case the water

CHAP. IV. | "SAUCES. 123

must be poured from them shortly after it has been changed for
the second time. When grown in a suitable soil, and cultivated
with care, the eschalots are sometimes treble the size that they
are under other circumstances; and this difference must be
allowed for in boiling them. Drain them well, and mix them
with white sauce or gravy, or with good melted butter, and
serve them very hot.

A FINE SAUCE, OR PUREE OF VEGETABLE MARROW.

Pare one or two half grown marrows and cut out all the seeds ;
take a pound of the vegetable, and slice it with one ounce of
mild onion, into a pint of strong veal broth or of pale gravy ,
stew them very softly for nearly or quite an hour; add ‘alt
and cayenne, or white pepper, when they are nearly done; press
the whole through a fine and delicately clean hair-sieve ; heat it
afresh, and stir to it when it boils about the third of a pint of
rich cream. Serve it with boiled chickens, stewed or boiled
veal, lamb cutlets, or any other delicate meat. When to be
served as a purée, an additional half pound of the vegetable
must be used; and it should be dished with small fried sippets
round it. For a maigre dish, stew the marrow and onion quite
tender in butter, and dilute them with half boiling water and
half cream.

Vegetable marrow, 1 lb.; mild onion, 1 oz.; strong broth or
pale gravy, 1 pint: nearly or quite 1 hour. Pepper or cayenne,
and salt as needed; good cream from 4 to 4 of pint. For
purée, 3 lb. more of marrow.

EXCELLENT TURNIP, OR ARTICHOKE SAUCE FOR BOILED MEAT.

Pare, slice, and boil quite tender, some finely-grained mild
turnips, press the water from them thoroughly, and pass them
through a sieve. Dissolve a slice of butter in a clean saucepan,
and stir to it a large teaspoonful of flour, or mix them smoothly
together before they are put in, and shake the saucepan round
until they boil; pour to them very gradually, nearly a pint of
thin cream (or of good milk mixed with a portion of cream),
add the turnips with a half-teaspoonful or more of salt, and
when the whole is well mixed and very hot, pour it over boiled
mutton, veal, lamb, or poultry. There should be sufficient of
the sauce to cover the meat entirely, and when properly made
it improves greatly the appearance of a joint. A little cayenne
tied in a muslin may be boiled in the milk before it is mixed

with the turnips. Jerusalem artichokes make a more delicate

124 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV.

sauce of this kind even than turnips; the weight of both veget-
ables must be taken after they are pared.

Pared turnips or artichokes, 1 1b.; fresh butter, 13 oz. ; flour,
1 large teaspoonful (twice as much if all milk be used) ; salt, 3
teaspoonful or more ; cream, or cream and milk mixed, from %
to 1 pint.

OLIVE-SAUCE.

Remove the stones from some fine French or Italian olives
by paring the fruit close to them, round and round in the form
of a corkscrew : they will then resume their original shape when
done. Weigh six ounces thus prepared, throw them into boil-
ing water, let them blanch for five minutes, drain, and throw
them into cold water, and leave them in it from half an hour to
an hour, proportioning the time to their saltness; drain them
well, and stew them gently from fifteen to twenty-five minutes
in a pint of very rich brown gravy, or Hspagnole (see Chapter
IIL.): add the juice of half a lemon, and serve the sauce very
hot. Half this quantity will be sufficient for a small party.

Olives, stoned, 6 ozs.; rich gravy, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes.
Juice, } lemon.

Obs.—In France this sauce is served very commonly with
ducks, and sometimes with beef-steaks, and stewed fowl.

CELERY SAUCE.

Slice the white part of from three to five heads of young
tender celery ; peel it if not very young, and boil it in salt and
water for twenty minutes. If for white sauce, put the celery,
after it has been well drained, into half a pint of veal broth or
gravy, and let it stew until it is quite soft; then add an ounce
and a half of butter, mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour, and
a quarter-pint of thick cream, or the yolks of three eggs. The
French, after boiling the celery, which they cut very small, for
about twenty minutes, drain, and chop it; then put it witha
slice of butter into a stewpan, and season it with pepper, salt,
and nutmeg; they keep these stirred over the fire for two or
three minutes, and then dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour ;
when this has lost its raw taste, they pour in a sufficiency of
white gravy to moisten the celery, and to allow for twenty
minutes’ longer boiling. A very good common celery sauce is
made by simply stewing the celery, cut into inch-lengths, in
butter, until it begins to be tender; and then adding a spoonful
of flour, which must be allowed to brown a little, and half a

LCC

CHAP. Iv. ] SAUCES, 125

pint of good broth or beef gravy, with a seasoning of pepper o:
cayenne.

Celery, 3 to 5 heads: 20 minutes. Veal broth, or gravy, !
pint: 20 to 40 minutes. Butter, 1} 0z.; flour, 1 dessertspoon-
ful ; cream, } pint, or three yolks of eggs.

WHITE CHESTNUT SAUCE.

Strip the outer rind from six ounces of sound, sweet chestnuts,
then throw them into boiling water, and let them simmer for
two or three minutes, when the second skin will easily peel off.
Add to them three quarters of a pint of good cold veal gravy,
and a few strips of lemon peel, and let them stew gently for an
hour and a quarter. Press them, with the gravy, through a
hair-sieve reversed, and placed over a deep dish or pan, as they
are much more easily rubbed through thus than in the usual
way: a wooden spoon should be used in preference to any
other for the process. Add a little cayenne and mace, some
salt if needed, and about six tablespoonsful of rich cream.
Keep the sauce stirred until it boils, and serve it immediately.

Chestnuts without their rinds, 6 ozs.; veal gravy, 3 pint;
rind of } lemon: 13 hour. Salt; spice; cream, 6 tablespoons-
ful. e,

Obs.—This sauce may be served with turkey, with fowls, or
with veal-cutlets stewed.

BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE.

Substitute rich brown gravy for the veal stock, omit the
lemon-rind and cream, heighten the seasonings, and mix the
chestnuts with a few spoonsful of Espagnole or highly flavoured
gravy after they have been passed through the sieve.

SWEET PUDDING SAUCE.

Boil together for fifteen minutes the thin rind of half a small
lemon, an ounce and a half of fine sugar, and a wineglassful of
water; then take out the lemon-peel, and mix very smoothly
an ounce of butter with rather more than a half-teaspoonful of
flour, stir them round in the sauce until it has boiled one
minute; next add a wineglassful and a half of sherry or
Madeira, or two thirds of that quantity and a quarter-glass of
brandy : when quite hot, serve the sauce.

Port-wine sauce is made in the same way, with the addition
of a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, some grated nutmeg, and a
little more sugar: orange rind and juice may be used to give it
flayour when preferred to lemon.

126 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap. rv.

Rind } lemon; sugar, 11 0z.; water, 1 wineglassful: 15

minutes. Butter, 1 oz.; flour, large 4 teaspoonful: 1 minute.

Wine, 14 wineglassful; or, 1 of wine, and 3 glass of brandy.

PUNCH SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

This is a favourite sauce with custard, plain bread, and plum-
puddings. With two ounces of sugar and a quarter-pint of
water, boil very gently the rind of half a small lemon, and
somewhat less of orange-peel, from fifteen to twenty minutes ;
strain out the rinds, thicken the sauce with an ounce and a half
of butter and nearly a teaspoonful of flour, add a half-glass of
brandy, the same of white wine, two thirds of a glass of rum,
with the juice of half an orange, and rather less of lemon-
juice : serve the sauce very hot, but do not allow it to boil after
the spirit is stirred in.

Sugar, 2 ozs.; water, + pint; lemon and orange rind: 14 to
20 minutes. Butter, 14 0z.; flour, 1 teaspoonful; brandy and
white wine each } wineglassful ; rum, two thirds of glassful;
_ orange and lemon juice.

COMMON PUDDING SAUCE.

Poa Sweeten a quarter-pint of good melted butter with an ounce
and a half of sugar, and add to it gradually a couple of glasses
of wine; stir it until it is at the point of boiling, and serve it
immediately. Lemon-grate, or nutmeg, can be added at
pleasure.

A DELICIOUS GERMAN PUDDING SAUCE.

Dissolve in half a pint of sherry or of Madeira, from three to
four ounces of fine sugar, but do not allow the wine to boil ; stir
it hot to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and mill the
sauce over a gentle fire until it is well thickened, and highly
frothed ; pour it over a plum, or any other kind of sweet boiled
pudding, of which it much improves the appearance. Half the
quantity will be sufficient for one of moderate size. A small
machine, resembling a chocolate mill, is used in Germany for
frothing this sauce ; but a couple of silver forks, fastened to-
gether at the handles, will serve for the purpose, on an emer-
gency. We recommend the addition of a dessertspoonful of
strained lemon-juice to the wine.

For large pudding, sherry or Madeira, 3 pint; fine sugar, 3
to 4 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 6; lemon-juice (if added), 1 dessert-
spoonful.

Obs.—The safer plan with sauces liable to curdle is to thicken

ste eeepeemnmnnetianinicnieeadal

CHAP. Iv. | ; SAUCES. : 127

them always in a jar or jug, placed in a saucepan of water ;
when this is not done, they should be held over the fire, but
never placed upon it.

PARSLEY-GREEN, FOR COLOURING SAUCES.

Gather a quantity of young parsley, strip it from the stalks,
wash it very clean, shake it as dry as possible in a cloth, pound
it in a mortar, press all the juice closely from it through a hair-
sieve reversed, and put it into a clean jar; set it into a pan of
boiling water, and in about three minutes, if gently simmered,
the juice will be poached sufficiently ; lay it then upon a clean
sieve to drain, and it will be ready for use. '

TO CRISP PARSLEY.

Pick some branches of young parsley, wash them well, drain
them from the water, and swing them ina clean cloth until they
are quite dry; place them on a sheet of writing paper in a
Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, and keep them frequently turned _
until they are quite crisp. They will be done in from six to
eight minutes.

FRIED PARSLEY.

When the parsley has been prepared as for crisping, and is
quite dry, throw it into plenty of lard or: butter, which is on the
point of boiling; take it up with a skimmer the instant it is
crisp, and drain it on a cloth spread upon a sieve reversed, and
placed before the fire.

ANCHOVY BUTTER.
(Eacellent.)

Scrape the skin quite clean from a dozen fine mellow ancho-
vies, free the flesh entirely from the bones, and pound it as
smooth as possible in a mortar; rub it through the back of a
hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; wipe out the mortar, and put
back the anchovies with three quarters of a pound of very fresh
butter, a small half-saltspoonful of cayenne, and more than twice
as much of finely grated nutmeg, and freshly pounded mace ;
and beat them together until they are thoroughly blended. If
to serve cold at table, mould the butter in small shapes, and
turn it out. A little rose pink (which is sold at the chemists’) is
sometimes used to give it a fine colour, but it must be sparingly
used, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour: it should be well
pounded, and very equally mixed with it. For kitchen use,

Cee

128 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv.

press the butter down into jars or pattypans, and keep it in a
cool place.
Fine anchovies, 12; butter, ? lb.; cayenne, small } saltspoon-

ful; nutmeg and mace, each more than twice as much ; Tose- *

pink (if used), } teaspoonful.

Obs.—This proportion differs from potted anchovies, nae
in the larger proportion of butter mixed with the fish, and the
milder seasoning of spice. It will assist to form an elegant dish
if made into pats, and stamped with a tasteful impression, then
placed alternately with pats of lobster-butter, and decorated
with light foliage. It is generally eaten with much relish when
carefully compounded, and makes excellent sandwiches. To
convert it into a good fish sauce, mix two or three ounces of it
with a teaspoonful of flour and a few spoonsful of cold water,
or of pale veal stock, and keep them constantly stirred until
they boil. The butter should not be moulded directly it is
taken from the mortar, as itis then very soft from the beating.
It should be placed until it is firm in a very cool place, or over
ice, when it can be done conveniently.

TARTAR. MUSTARD.

Rub four ounces of the best Durham mustard very smooth.
with a full teaspoonful of salt, and wet it by degrees with strong
horseradish vinegar, a dessertspoonful of cayenne, or of Chili
vinegar, and one or two of tarragon vinegar, when its flavour is
not disliked. A quarter-pint of vinegar poured boiling upon
an ounce of scraped horseradish, and left for one night, closely
covered, will be ready to use for this mustard, but it will be
better for standing two or three days.

Durham mustard, 4 ozs.; salt, large teaspoonful ; cayenne, or
Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful ; horseradish vinegar, third of

int.

Obs.—This is an exceedingly pungent compound, but has
many admirers.

ANOTHER TARTAR MUSTARD.

Mix the salt and mustard smoothly, with equal parts of horse-
radish vinegar, and of Chili vinegar. Mustard made by these
receipts will keep long, if put into jars or bottles, and closely
stopped. Cucumber, eschalot, or any other of the flavoured

vinegars for which we have given receipts, may in turn be used ©

for it, and mushroom, gherkin, or India pickle-liquor, like-
“Wise.

ae ren

oo eee

CHAP. IVv.] SAUCES. 129

MILD MUSTARD.

Mustard for instant use should be mixed with milk, to which
a spoonful or two of very thin cream may be added.

MUSTARD THE COMMON WAY.

The great art of mixing mustard, is to have it perfectly
smooth, and of a proper consistency. The liquid with which it
is moistened should be added to it in small quantities, and the
mustard should be well rubbed, and beaten with a spoon. Mix
a, half-teaspoonful of salt with two ounces of the flour of mus-
tard, and stir to them by degrees, sufficient boiling water to
reduce it to the appearance of a thick batter; do not put it into
the mustard-glass until cold. Some persons like a half-tea-
spoonful of sugar, in the finest powder, mixed with it. It
ought to be sufficiently diluted always to drop easily from the
spoon.

FRENCH BATTER.
(For frying vegetables, and for apple, peach, or orange fritters )
Cut a couple of ounces of good butter into small bits, pour on
it less than a quarter-pint of boiling water, and when it is dis-
solved, add three quarters of a pint of cold water, so that the
whole shall not be quite milk warm; mix it then by degrees,
and very smoothly, with twelve ounces of fine dry flour, ‘anda —
small pinch of salt, if the batter be for fruit fritters, but with
more if for meat or vegetables. Just before it is used, stir into
it the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth ; but previously
to this, add a little water should it appear too thick, as some
flour requires more liquid than other, to bring it to the proper
consistency.

Butter, 2 ozs.; water, from 3? to nearly 1 pint; little salt ;

flour, 3 lb.; whites of 2 eggs, beaten to snow.

TO PREPARE BREAD FOR FRYING FISH.

Cut thick slices from the middle of a loaf of light bread, pare
the crust entirely from them, and dry them gradually in a cool
oven until they are crisp quite through; let them become cold,
then roll or beat them into fine crumbs, and keep them in a dry
place for use. To strew over hams or cheeks of bacon, the
bread should be left all night in the oven, which should be suffi-
ciently heated to brown, as well as to harden it: it ought indeed
to be entirely converted into equally-coloured crust. It may be
sifted through a dredging-box on to the hams, after it has been
reduced almost to powder.

130 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. IVs

BROWNED FLOUR FOR THICKENING SOUPS AND GRAVIES.

Spread it on a tin or dish, and colour it, without burning, in
a gentle oven, or before the fire in a Dutch or American oven:
turn it often, or the edges will be too much browned before the
middle is enough so. ‘This, blended with butter, makes a con-
venient thickening for soups or gravies, of which it is desirable
to deepen the colour; and it requires less time and attention
than the French roux of page 96. |

FRIED BBEAD-CRUMBS.

Grate lightly into very fine crumbs four ounces of stale bread,
and shake them through a cullender, without rubbing or touch-
ing them with the hands. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter
in a frying-pan, throw in the crumbs, and stir them constantly
over a moderate fire, until they are all of a clear gold colour;
lift them out with a skimmer, spread them on a soft cloth laid
upon a sieve reversed, and dry them before the fire. They may
be more delicately prepared by browning them in a gentle oven
without the addition of butter.

Bread, 4 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.

FRIED BREAD FOR GARNISHING.

Cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter-inch thick:
form them into diamonds, or half diamonds, or shape them
with a paste-cutter in any other way ; fry them in fresh butter,
some of a very pale brown, and others a deeper colour: dry
them well, and place them alternately round the dish that is to
be garnished. ‘They may be made to adhere to the edge of the
dish, when they are required for ornament only, by means of a
little flour and white of egg brushed over the side which is
placed on it: this must be allowed to dry before they are served.

THE RAJAH’S SAUCE.

Strain, very clear, the juice of six fine lemons; add to it a
small teaspoonful of salt, a drachm of good cayenne-pepper,
and a slight strip or two of the lemon-rind cut extremely thin.
Give the sauce three or four minutes simmering ; turn it into
a China jug or basin; and when it is quite cold, strain it again,
put it into small dry bottles, cork them well, and store them in
a cool place which is free from damp. The sauce is good with-
out being boiled, but is apt to ferment after a time: it is, we
think, of much finer flavour than Chili vinegar.

Lemon-juice 4 pint; salt 1 small teaspoonful; cayenne 1
drachm ; simmered 5 minutes.

CHAP. V. | STORE SAUCES. 131

CHAPTER V.
STORE SAUCES,

Mushrooms, Eschalois, and Tomatas.

OBSERVATIONS.

A wet selected stock of these will always prove a convenient
resource for giving colour and flavour to soups, gravies, and
made dishes; but unless the consumption be considerable, they
should not be over-abundantly provided, as few of them are
improved by age, and many are altogether spoiled by long
keeping, especially if they be not perfectly secured from the air
by sound corking, or if stored where there is the slightest degree
of damp. To prevent loss, they should be examined at short
intervals, and at the first appearance of mould or fermentation,
such as will bear the process should be reboiled, and put, when
again quite cold, into clean bottles; a precaution often especially
needful for mushroom catsup when it has been made in a wet
season. ‘This, with essence of anchovies, walnut catsup, Har-
vey’s sauce, cavice, lemon-pickle, Chili, cucumber, and eschalot
vinegar, will be all that is commonly needed for family use, but
there is at the present day an extensive choice of these stores on
sale, some of which are excellent.

182 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP, ¥,

CHETNEY SAUCE.
j (Bengal Receipt.)
| Stone four ounces of good raisins, and chop

them small, with half a pound of crabs, sour ~

apples, unripe bullaces, or of any other hard acid
\fruit. ‘Take four ounces of coarse brown sugar,
two of powdered ginger, and the same quantity of
salt and cayenne pepper; grind these ingredients
separately in a mortar, as fine as possible; then
pound the fruits well, and mix the spices with
them, one by one; beat them together until they
are perfectly blended, and add gradually as much
vinegar as will make the sauce of the consistency
of thickcream. Put it into a bottle with an ounce
of garlic, divided into cloves, and cork it tightly.

Stoned raisins, 4 ozs.; crabs, or other acid fruit,
he 3 lb.; coarse sugar, 4 ozs.; powdered ginger,
/| - 2 ozs.; salt, 2 ozs.; cayenne-pepper, 2 ozs. ; garlic,
Garlic. 1 oz.; vinegar, enough to dilute it properly.

Obs.—This favourite oriental sauce is compounded in a great
variety of ways ; but some kind of acid fruit is essential ‘to it.
The mango is used in India; here the bullaces in an unripe
state answer very well. Gooseberries also, while still hard and
green, are sometimes used for it; and ripe red chilies and
tomatas are mixed with the other ingredients. The sauce keeps
better if it be exposed to a gentle degree of heat for a week or
two, either by the side of the fire, or in a full southern aspect
in the sun. In this case it must be put into a jar or bottles,
and well secured from the air. Half a pound of gooseberries,
or of these and tamarinds from the shell, and green apples
mixed, and the same weight of salt, stoned raisins, brown sugar,
powdered ginger, chilies, and garlic, with a pint and a half of
vinegar, and the juice of three large lemons, will make another
genuine Bengal chetney. /

MUSHROOM CATSUP.

Cut the ends of the stalks from two gallons of freshly-gathered
mushroms (the large flaps are best for this purpose, but they
should not be worm-eaten) ; break them into a deep earthen
pan, and strew amongst them three quarters of a pound of salt,
reserving the larger portion of it for the top. Let’ them stand
for three, or even four days, and stir them gently once every

four and twenty hours; then drain off the liquor without,

CHAP. v.] STORE SAUCES. 133

pressing the mushrooms; strain and measure it; ‘put it into a
very clean stewpan, and boil it quickly until reduced nearly or
quite half. For every quart, allow half an ounce of whole
black pepper, and a drachm of mace ; or, instead of the pepper,
@ quarter-teaspoonful (ten grains) of eood cayenne; pour the
catsup into a clean jug or jar, lay a folded cloth over it, and
keep it in a cool place until the following day ; pour it gently
from the sediment, put it into small bottles, cork them well,
and rosin them down. A teaspoonful of salad-oil may be
poured into each bottle before it is corked, the better to exclude |
the air from the catsup: it must be kept in a dry cool place.

Mushrooms, 2 gallons; salt, 2 lb.; to macerate three or four
days. ‘To each quart of liquor, } oz. black pepper, or quarter-
teaspoonful cayenne ; and 1 drachm mace: to be reduced half.

Obs. 1.—Catsup made thus will not be too salt, nor will the
flavour of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices ;
of which a larger quantity, and a greater variety, can be used at
will. a

Obs. 2.—After the mushrooms have stood for three or four
days, as we have directed, the whole may be turned into a large
stewpan, brought slowly to a boil, and simmered for a few
minutes before the liquor is strained off. We think the catsup
keeps rather better when this is done, but we recommend only
just sufficient simmering to preserve it well. When the mush-
rooms are crushed, or mashed, as some authors direct, the
liquor will necessarily be very thick; it is better to proceed as
above, and then to boil the squeezings of the mushrooms with
the sediment of the catsup, and sufficient cloves, pepper, allspice,
and ginger, to flavour it highly: this second catsup will be
found very useful to mix with common thickened sauces, hashes,
and stews. In some seasons it is necessary to boil the catsup
with the spice a second time after it has been kept for three or
four months: this, by way of precaution, can always be done,
but it had better then be put into large bottles in the first
instance, and stored in the small ones afterwards.

MUSHROOM CATSUP.
(Another Receipt.)

Break a peck of large mushrooms into a deep earthen-pan; strew
three quarters of a pound of salt amongst them, and set them
into a very cool oven for one night, with a fold of cloth or paper
over them. The following day strain off the liquor, measure, .
and boil it for fifteen minutes ; then, for each quart, add an
ounce of black pepper, a quarter-ounce of allspice, half an ounce

134 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V.

of ginger, and two large blades of mace, and let it boil fast for
twenty minutes longer. When perfectly cold, put it into bot-
tles, cork them well, and dip the necks into melted rosin.

Mushrooms, 1 peck; salt, 1b. Liquor to boil, 15 minutes.
To each quart, 3 oz. black pepper; } oz. allspice; 4 oz. ginger ;
2 blades mace: 20 minutes.

DOUBLE MUSHROOM CATSUP.

On a gallon of fresh mushrooms strew three ounces of salt,
and pour to them a quart of ready-made catsup (that which is a
year old will do if it be perfectly good); keep these stirred
occasionally for four days, then drain the liquor very dry from
the mushrooms, and boil it for fifteen minutes, with an ounce of
whole black pepper, a drachm and a half of mace, an ounce of
ginger, and three or four grains only of cayenne.

Mushrooms, 1 gallon; salt, 3 ozs.; mushroom catsup, 1
quart; peppercorns, 1 oz.; mace, 14 drachm; ginger, 1 oz. ;
cayenne, 3 to 4 grains: 15 minutes.

COMPOUND, OR COOK’S CATSUP.

Take a pint and a half of mushroom catsup when it is first
made, and ready boiled (the double is best for the purpose),
simmer in it for five minutes, an ounce of small eschalots nieely
peeled ; add to these half a- pint of walnut catsup, and a wine-
glassful of cayenne vinegar,* or of Chili vinegar; give the
whole one boil, pour it out, and when cold, bottle it with the
eschalots.

Mushroom catsup, 14 pint; eschalots, 1 0z.; walnut catsup
or pickle, 3 pint ; cayenne or Chili vinegar, 1 wineglassful.

WALNUT CATSUP.

The vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled, when they
have remained in it a year, will generally answer all the
purposes for which this catsup is required, particularly if it be
drained from them and boiled for a few minutes, with a little
additional spice, and a few eschalots; but where the vinegar is
objected to, it nay be made either by boiling the expressed juice
of young walnuts for an hour, with six ounces of fine anchovies,
_ four ounces of eschalots, half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter-
ounce of cloves, and a drachm of mace, to every quart; or as
follows :—

Poundin a mortar a hundred young walnuts, strewing

* We have always had the cayenne-vinegar used in this receipt, but the Chili
would, without doubt, answer as well, or better.

CHAP. V.] STORE SAUCES. 185

amongst them as they are done half a pound of salt; then
pour to them a quart of strong vinegar, and let them stand until
they have become quite black, keeping them stirred three or
four times a day ; next add a quart of strong old beer, and boil
the whole together for ten minutes ; strain it, and let it remain
until the next day; then pour it off clear from the sediment,
add to it half a pound of anchovies, one large head of garlic
bruised, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, the same quantity of
cloves and black pepper, and two drachms of mace: boil these
together for half an hour, and the following day bottle and cork
the catsup well. It will keep for a dozen years. Many persons
add to it, before it is boiled, a bottle of port wine; and others
recommend a large bunch of sweet herbs to be put in with the
spice.

Ist Recipe. Expressed juice of walnuts, 1 quart; anchovies,
6 ozs.; eschalots, 4 ozs.; black pepper, 3 0z.; cloves, 1 0z.;
mace, 1 drachm: 1 hour.

2nd. Walnuts, 100; salt, }1b.; vinegar, 1 quart: to stand
till black. Strong beer, 1 quart; anchovies, 3 lb.; 1 head
garlic; nutmegs, } 0z.; cloves, } oz.; black pepper, } oz. ; mace,
2 drachms: } hour.

ANOTHER GOOD RECEIPT FOR WALNUT CATSUP.

Beat a hundred green walnuts in.a large marble mortar until
they are thoroughly bruised and broken, and then put them
into a stone jar, with half a pound of eschalots, cut in slices, one
head of garlic, half a pound of salt, and two quarts of vinegar ;
let them stand for ten days, and stir them night and morning.
Strain off the liquor, and boil it for half an hour with the
addition of two ounces of anchovies, two of whole pepper,
half an ounce of cloves, and two drachms of mace; skim it well,
strain it off, and when it is quite cold pour it gently from the
sediment (which may be reserved for flavouring common sauces)
into small dry bottles; secure it from the air by sound corking,
and store it in a dry place.

Walnuts, 100; eschalots, 3} lb.; garlic, 1 head; salt, 3 lb.;
vinegar, 2 quarts: 10 days. Anchovies, 2 ozs.; black pepper,
2 ozs.; mace, + 0z.; cloves, } oz.: 4 hour.

LEMON PICKLE OR CATSUP.

Hither divide six small lemons into quarters, remove all the
pips that are in sight, and strew three ounces of salt upon them,
and keep them turned in it for a week, or, merely make deep
incisions in them, and proceed as directed for pickled lemons.

136 MODERN COOKERY. [CILAP. V:

When they have stood in a warm place for eight days, put into
a stone jar two ounces and a half of finely scraped horseradish,
and two ounces of eschalots, or one and a half of garlic; to these
add the lemons with all their liquor, and pour on them a pint
and a half of boiling vinegar in which half an ounce of bruised
ginger, a quarter-ounce of whole white pepper, and two blades
of mace have been simmered for two or three minutes. The
pickle will be fit for use in two or three months, but may stand
four or five before it is strained off.

Small lemons, 6; salt, 3 ozs.: 8 days. Horseradish, 2! ozs.-
eschalots, 2 ozs., or garlic 1} 0z.; vinegar, 14 pint; ginger, } oz.
whole white pepper, + 0z.; mace, 2 blades: 3 to 6 months.

PONTAC CATSUP FOR FISH.

On one pint of ripe elderberries stripped from the stalks, pour

three quarters of a pint of boiling vinegar, and let it stand in a

cool oven all night; the next day strain off the liquid without
pressure, and boil it for five minutes with a half-teaspoonful of

salt, a small race of ginger, a blade of mace, forty corns of pepper, -

twelve cloves, and four eschalots. Bottle it with the spice when
it is quite cold.
BOTTLED TOMATAS, OR TOMATA CATSUP.
Cut half a peck of ripe tomatas into quarters; lay them on
dishes, and sprinkle over them half a pound of salt. The next

day drain the juice from them through a hair-sieve into a stew-
pan, and boil it half an hour with three dozens of small capsi-

cums, and half a pound of eschalots; then add the tomatas, -

which should be ready pulped through a strainer. Boil the

whole for thirty minutes longer; have some clean bottles, kept -

warm by the fire, fill them with the catsup while it is quite hot;
cork, and rosin them down directly.

Tomatas, 3 peck; salt, 3 lb.; capsicums, 3 doz.; eschalots,
4]lb.: 4 hour. After pulp is added, 3 hour.

Obs.—This receipt has been kindly contributed by a person
who makes by it every year large quantities of the catsup, which
is considered excellent: for sauce, it must be mixed with gravy
or melted butter. We have not ourselves been able to make
trial of it.

EPICUREAN SAUCE.

Mix well, by shaking them in a bottle a quarter-pint of
Indian soy, half a pint of Chili vinegar, half a pint of walnut
catsup, and a pint and a half of the best mushroom catsup.
These proportions make an excellent sauce, either to mix with

CHAP. V.]. STORE SAUCES. 137

melted butter, and to serve with fish, or to add to different
kinds of gravy ; but they can be varied, or added to, at pleasure.
Indian soy, 1 pint; Chili vinegar, 4 pint; walnut catsup,
3 pint ; mushroom catsup, 13 pint.
Obs.—A_ pint of port wine, a few eschalots, and some thin
strips of lemon-rind will convert this into an admirable store-
sauce. Less soy would adapt it better to many tastes.

TARRAGON VINEGAR.

Gather the tarragon just before it blossoms, which will be
late in July, or early in August; strip it from the larger stalks,
and put it into small stone jars or wide-necked bottles, and in
doing this twist some of the branches so as to bruise the leaves
and wring them asunder; then pour in sufficient distilled or
very pale vinegar to cover the tarragon; let it infuse for two
months, or more: it will take no harm even by standing all the
winter. When it is poured off strain it very clear, put it into
small dry bottles, and cork them well. Sweet basil vinegar is
made in exactly the same way, but it should not be left on the
leaves more than three weeks. ‘The jars or bottles should be
filled to the neck with the tarragon before the vinegar is added :
its flavour is strong and peculiar, but to many tastes very
agreeable. It imparts quite a foreign character to the dishes
for which it is used.

GREEN MINT VINEGAR.

Pick and slightly chop, or bruise, freshly-gathered mint, and
put it into bottles; fill them nearly to the necks, and add
vinegar as for tarragon : in forty days, strain it off, and bottle it
for use.

The mint itself, ready minced for sauce, will keep well in
vinegar, though the colour will not be very good.

CUCUMBER VINEGAR.

First wipe, and then, without paring, slice into a jar some
young and quickly-grown cucumbers; pour on them as much
boiling vinegar as will cover them well, with a teaspoonful of
salt, and two thirds as much of peppercorns to the pint and a
half of vinegar: it may remain on them for a month, or even
for two, if well defended from the air. A mild onion can be
intermixed with the cucumbers, when its flavour is considered an
improvement.

CELERY VINEGAR.
Put into a wide-necked bottle or pickle-jar eight ounces of

138 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. V.

the white part of the root and stalks of fine fresh celery cut into
slices, and pour on it a pint of boiling vinegar; when a little
cool, cork it down, and in three weeks it will be ready to strain,
and to bottle for keeping. Halfan ounce of bruised celery-seed
will answer the same purpose, when the root cannot be ob-
tained. This is an agreeable addition to a salad, when its
flavour is much liked: a half-teaspoonful of salt should be
boiled in it.

ESCHALOT, OR GARLIC VINEGAR.

On from four to six ounces of eschalots, or on two of garlic,
peeled and bruised, pour a quart of the best vinegar; stop the
jar or bottle close, and in a fortnight or three weeks the vine-
gar may be strained off for use: a few drops will give a suffi-
cient flavour to a sauce, or to a tureen of gravy.

Eschalots, 4 to 6 ozs. ; or, garlic, 2 to 4 ozs.; vinegar, 1 quart:
15 to 21 days.

Obs.—These roots may be used in smaller or in larger pro- |

portion, as a slighter or a stronger flavour of them is desived,

and may remain longer in the vinegar without any detriment
to it.

ESCHALOT WINE.

This is a far more useful preparation even than the preceding
one, since it can be used to impart the flavour of the eschalot to
dishes for which acid is not required. Peel and slice, or bruise,
four ounces of eschalots, put them into a bottle, and add to them
a pint of sherry; in a fortnight pour off the wine, and should
it not be strongly flavoured with the eschalots, steep in it two
ounces more, for another fortnight; a half-teaspoonful of ca-
yenne may be added at first. he bottle should be shaken
occasionally, while the eschalots are infusing, but should remain
undisturbed for the last two or three days, that the wine may
be clear when it is poured off to bottle for keeping. Sweet-
basil wine is made by steeping the fresh leaves of the herb in
wine, from ten to fifteen days.

Eschalots, 4 ozs.; sherry 1 pint: 15 days, or more.

HORSERADISH VINEGAR.

-On four ounces of young and freshly-scraped horseradish
pour a quart of boiling vinegar, and cover it down closely: it
will be ready for use in three or four days, but may remain for
weeks, or months, before the vinegar is poured off. An ounce

eee

CHAP. V.] | - STORE SAUCES. 189

of minced eschalot may be substituted for one of the horse-
radish, if the flavour be liked.

CAYENNE VINEGAR.

Put from a quarter to half an ounce of the best cayenne. pep-
per into a bottle, and pour on it a pint of pale vinegar. Cork
it closely, and shake it well every two or three days. It may
remain any length of time before it is poured off, but will very
soon be ready for use. From being so extremely pungent, it is,
for some purposes, preferable to Chili vinegar, as the cayenne
seasoning can be given with less of acid. It may be made of
any degree of strength. We warn the young housekeeper
against using essence of cayenne (or cayenne steeped in brandy)
for flavouring any dishes, as the brandy is very perceptible al-
ways, and gives an exceedingly coarse taste.

Good cayenne pepper, } to 4 0z.; vinegar, 1 pint: infuse
from 2 weeks to 12 months.

LEMON BRANDY.
(For flavouring sweet dishes.)

Fill any sized wide-necked bottle lightly with the very thin
rinds of fresh lemons, and cover them with good brandy; let
them remain three weeks, then strain off the spirit and keep it
well corked for use : a few apricot-kernels blanched and infused
with the lemon-rind will give an agreeable flavour.

ANOTHER STORE-FLAVOURING FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES.

Rasp on from two to four ounces of sugar the rinds of a couple
of fine lemons, reduce the lumps to powder, and add it gra-
dually to, and pound it with, an ounce of bitter almonds,
blanched and wiped very dry. When these have been beaten
to a fine paste, and the whole is well blended, press the mixture
into a small pan, tie a paper over, and keep it for use. The
proportions can be varied at pleasure, and the quantities in-
creased: from a teaspoonful to three times as much can be
mixed with the ingredients for a pudding. Cakes require more
in proportion to their size.

Rinds large lemons, 2; sugar, 2 to 4 0zs.; bitter almonds, 1 0z.

DRIED MUSHROOMS.

Peel small, sound, freshly-gathered flaps, cut off the stems,
and scrape out the fur entirely ; then arrange the mushrooms
singly on tins or dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible
“in a gentle oven. Put them, when they are done, into tin

140 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V.

canisters, and store them where they will be secure from damp.
French cooks give them a single boil in water, from which they
then are well drained, and dried, as usual. When wanted for
table, they should be put into cold gravy, slowly heated, and
gently simmered, until they are tender.

MUSHROOM POWDERe

When the mushrooms have been prepared with great nicety,
and dried, as in the foregoing receipt, pound them to a very fine
powder; sift it, and put it immediately into small and perfectly
dry bottles; cork and seal them without delay, for if the powder
be long exposed to the air, so as to imbibe any humidity, or if it
be not well secured from it in the bottles, it will be likely to
become putrid: much of that which is purchased, even at the
best Italian warehouses, is found to be so, and, as it is sold at a
very high price, it is agreat economy, as well as a surer plan, to
have it carefully prepared at home. It is an exceedingly useful
store, and an elegant addition to many dishes and sauces. ‘To
insure its being good, the mushrooms should be gathered in dry
weather, and if any addition of spices be made to the powder
(some persons mix with it a seasoning of mace and cayenne),
they should be put into the oven for awhile before they are
used: but even these precautions will not be sufficient, unless
the powder be stored in a very dry place after it is bottled. A
teaspoonful of it, with a quarter-pint of strong veal gravy, as
much cream, and a small dessertspoonful of flour, will make an
excellent béchamel or white sauce. ;

POTATO FLOUR.
(Fecule de Pommes de terre.)

Grate into a large vessel full of cold water, six pounds of
sound mealy potatoes, and stir them well together. In six
hours pour off the water, and add fresh, stirrmg the mixture
well; repeat this process every three or four hours during the
day, change the water at night, and the next morning pour it
off; put two or three quarts more to the potatoes, and turn
them directly into a hair-sieve, set over a pan to receive the
flour, which may then be washed through the sieve, by pouring
water to it. Let it settle in the pan, drain off the water, spread
the potato-sediment on dishes, dry it in a slow oven, sift it, and
put it into bottles or jars, and cork or cover them closely. The
flour thus made will be beautifully white, and perfectly tasteless.
It will remain good for years. ;

aS aM

CHAP. V. | STORE SAUCES. 141

TO MAKE FLOUR OF RICE.

Take any quantity of whole rice, wash it thoroughly, chang-
ing the water several times; drain and press it in a cloth, then
spread it on a dish, and dry it perfectly ; beat it in a mortar toa
smooth powder, and sift:it through a fine sieve. When used to
thicken soup or sauces, mix it with a small quantity of cold
water or of broth, and pour it to them while they are boiling.

This flour, when newly made, is of much purer flavour than
any usually prepared for sale.

POWDER OF SAVOURY HERBS.

All herbs which are to be dried for storing should be gathered
in fine weather ; cleared from dirt and decayed leaves ; and dried
quickly, but without scorching, in a Dutch oven before the fire,
or in any other that is not toomuch heated. The leaves should
then be stripped from the stalks, pounded, sifted, and closely
corked in separate bottles; or several kinds may be mixed and
pounded together for the convenience of seasoning in an instant
gravies, soups, forcemeats, and made dishes: appropriate spices,
celery-seed, and dried lemon-peel, all in fine powder, can be
added to the herbs.

THE DOCTOR'S ZEST.

Pound to the finest powder separately, eight ounces of basket
salt, a quarter-ounce of cayenne, a drachm of mace, and of nut-
meg; of cloves and pimento, a drachm and a half each; then
add the other ingredients, one by one, to the salt, and pound
them together until they are perfectly well blended. Put the
zest into wide-mouthed phials, and cork them tightly. Half an
ounce of mushroom-powder, and a drachm of dried lemon-peel,
will greatly improve this mixture.

142 MODERN COOKERY.

CHAPTER VL
FORCEMEATS.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Tue coarse and unpalat-
able compounds so con-
stantly met with under the
denomination of forcemeat,

even at tables otherwise

Se tolerably well served, show

with how little attention
they are commonly pre-
. pared.
Weighing Machine. Many very indifferent
cooks pique themselves on never doing any thing by rule, and
the consequence of their throwing together at random (or “ by
guess” as they call it) the ingredients which ought to be pro-
portioned. with exceeding delicacy and exactness is, repeated
failure in all they attempt to. do. Long experience, and a very
correct eye may, it is true, enable a person to dispense occasion-
ally with weights and measures, without hazarding the success
of their operations ; but it is an experiment which the learner
will do better to avoid.

A large marble or Wedgwood mortar is indispensable in
making all the finer kinds of forcemeat; and equally so indeed
for many other purposes in cookery; no kitchen, therefore,
should be without one; and for whatever preparation it may
be used, the pounding should be continued with patience and
perseverance until not a single lump nor fibre be perceptible in

_. the mass of the articles beaten together. This particularly

“applies to potted meats, which should resemble the smoothest
paste ; as well as to several varieties of forcemeat. Of these
last it should be observed, that such as are made by the French
method (see quenelles) are the most appropriate for an elegant
dinner, either to serve in soups or to fill boned poultry of any
kind ; but when their exceeding lightness, which to foreigners
constitutes one of their great excellencies, is objected to, it may
be remedied by substituting dry crumbs of bread for the
panada, and pounding a small quantity of the lean of a boiled

ham, with the other ingredients: however, this should be done.

only for the balls.

CHAP. VI. | FORCEMEATS. 143

_ No particular herb or spice should be allowed to predominate
powerfully in these compositions; but the whole of the season-
ings should be taken in such quantity only as will produce an
agreeable savour when they are blended together.

NO. 1. GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT, FOR ROAST VEAL,
TURKEYS, &c.

Grate very lightly into exceedingly fine crumbs, four ounces
of the inside of a stale loaf, and mix thoroughly with it, a quar-
ter of an ounce of lemon-rind pared as thin as possible, and
minced extremely small ; the same quantity of savoury herbs, of
which two thirds should be parsley, and one third thyme, like-
wise fiely minced, a little grated nutmeg, a half teaspoonful of
salt, and as much common pepper or cayenne as will season the
forcemeat sufficiently. Break into these, two ounces of good
butter in very small bits, add the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and
with the fingers work the whole well together until it is smoothly
mixed. It is usual to chop the lemon-rind, but we prefer it
lightly grated on a fine grater. It should always be fresh for
the purpose, or it will be likely to impart a very unpleasant fla-
vour to the forcemeat. Half the rind of a moderate-sized lemon
will be sufficient for this quantity ; which for a large turkey
must be increased one-half. 2

Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; lemon-rind, } oz. (or grated rind of 4
lemon) ; mixed savoury herbs, minced, } 0z.; salt, 4 teaspoon-
ful; pepper + to 4 of teaspoonful ; butter, 2 ozs.; yolk, 1 egg.

Obs.—This, to our taste, is a much nicer and more delicate
forcemeat than that which is made with chopped suet, and we
_ would recommend it for trial in preference. Any variety of
herb or spice may be used to give it flavour, and a little minced
onion or eschalot can be added to it also; but these last do not
appear to us suited to the meats for which the forcemeat is more
particularly intended. Half an ounce of the butter may be
omitted on ordinary occasions: and a portion of marjoram or of
sweet basil may take the place of part of the thyme and parsley
when preferred to them.

NO. 2. ANOTHER GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT.

Add to four ounces of bread-crumbs two of the lean of a
boiled ham, quite free from sinew, and very finely minced; two
of good butter, a dessertspoonful of herbs, chopped small, some
lemon-grate, nutmeg, a little salt, a good seasoning of pepper or
cayenne, and one whole egg, or the yolks of two. This may be

144 ; MODERN COOKERY. | [cHAP. VI.

fried in balls of moderate size, for five minutes, to serve with —

roast veal, or it may be put into the joint in the vsual way.

_ Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; lean of ham, 2 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; _
minced herbs, 1 dessertspoonful ; lemon-grate, 1 teaspoonful ;

nutmeg, mace, and cayenne, together, 1 small teaspoonful ; little
salt ; 1 whole egg, or yolks of 2.

NO. 3. SUPERIOR SUET FORCEMEAT, FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, &c.

Mix well together six ounces of fine stale crumbs, with an
equal weight of beef-kidney suet, chopped extremely small, a
large dessertspoonful of parsley, mixed with a little lemon-thyme,

a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of cayenne, and asaltspoonful ©

or rather more of mace and nutmeg together ; work these up
with three unbeaten egg-yolks, and three teaspoonsful of milk ;
then put the forcemeat into a large mortar, and pound it per-
fectly smooth. ‘Take it out, and let it remain in a cool place
for half an hour at least before it is used ; then roll it into balls,
if it be wanted to serve in that form; flour and fry them gently
from seven to eight minutes, and dry them well before they are
dished.

Beef suet finely minced, 6 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 6 ozs.; parsley, .

mixed with little thyme, 1 large dessertspoonful; salt, 1 tea-
spoonful; mace, large saltspoonful, and one fourth as much

cayenne; unbeaten egg-yolks, 3; milk, 3 teaspoonsful: well ©

pounded. Fried in balls, 7 to 8 minutes, or poached, 6 to 7.

Obs.—The finely grated rind of half a lemon can be added to
this forcemeat at pleasure; and for some purposes a morsel of
garlic, or three or four minced eschalots, may be mixed with it
before it is put into the mortar.

NO. 4. COMMON. SUET FORCEMEAT.

Beef suet is commonly used in the composition of this kind of
forcemeat, but we think that veal-kidney suet, when it could be
obtained, would have a better effect; though the reader will
easily comprehend that it is scarcely possible for us to have every
variety of every receipt which we insert put to the test; in some
cases we are compelled merely to suggest what appear to us likely
to be improvements. Strip carefully every morsel of skin from
the suet, and mince it small; to six ounces add eight of
bread-crumbs, with the same proportion of herbs, spice, salt,
and lemon-peel, as in the foregoing receipt, and a couple of
whole eggs, which should be very slightly beaten, after the
specks have been taken out with the point of a small fork.
Should more liquid be required, the yolk of another egg, or &

CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS, ke

spoonful or two of milk, may be used. Half this quantity will
be sufficient for a small joint of veal, or for a dozen balls, which,
when it is more convenient to serve it in that form, may be
fried or browned beneath the roast, and then dished round it,
though this last is not a very refined mode of dressing them.
From eight to ten minutes will fry them well.

No. 5. OYSTER FORCEMEAT.

Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the
beards, strain their liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate
four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs,
mince the oysters, but not too small, and mix them with the
bread; add an ounce and a half of good butter, broken into minute
bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, a small saltspoon-
ful of pounded mace, some cayenne, a little salt, and a large
teaspoonful of parsley: mix these ingredients well, and work
them together with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and a little
of the oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the
sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat.

Oysters, 1 dozen; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, 14 0z.; rind
1 small lemon; mace, 1 saltspoonful; some cayenne and salt;
minced parsley, 1 large teaspoonful ; yolk 1 egg; oyster-liquor,
1 dessertspoonful: rolled into balls, and fried from 7 to 10
minutes, or poached from 5 to 6 minutes.

Obs.—In this forcemeat the flavour of the oysters should pre-
vail entirely over that of all the other ingredients which are
mixed with them.

No. 6. A FINER OYSTER FORCEMEAT.

__ Pound the preceding forcemeat to the smoothest paste, with

the addition only of half an ounce of fresh butter, should it be
sufficiently dry to allow of it. It is remarkably good when
thus prepared, and may be poached or fried in balls for soups or
made dishes, or used to fill boned fowls, or the breasts of boiled
turkeys with equally good effect.

NO. 7. MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.

Cut closely off the stems’ ‘of some small, just-opened mush-
rooms, peel them, and take out the fur. ‘Dissolve an ounce
and a half of good butter in a saucepan, throw them into it
with a little cayenne, and a slight sprinkling of mace, and stew
them softly, keeping them well shaken, from five to seven
minutes ; then turn them into a dish, spread them over it, and
raise one end, that the liquid may drain from them. When

146 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI,

they are quite cold, mince, and then mix them with four
ounces of fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of good but-
ter, and part of that in which they were stewed, should the
forcemeat appear too moist to admit of the whole, as the yolk of
one egg, at the least, must be added, to bind the ingredients
together; strew in a saltspoonful of salt, a third as much of
cayenne, and about the same quantity of mace and nutmeg,
with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind. ‘The seasonings must
be rather sparingly used, that the flavour of the mushrooms
may not be overpowered by them. Mix the whole thoroughly
with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, or of two, and use the
forcemeat poached in small balls for soup, or fried and served
in the dish with roast fowls, or round minced veal; or to fill
boiled fowls, partridges, or turkeys.

Small mushrooms, peeled and trimmed, 4 ozs. ; butter 14 oz.;
slight sprinkling mace and cayenne: 5 to 7 minutes. Mush-
rooms minced ; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, 14 oz. (with part
of that used in the stewing); salt, 1 saltspoonfal; third as
much of cayenne, of mace, and of nutmeg ; grated lemond-rind,
1 teaspoonful; yolk of 1 or 2 eggs. In balls, poached, 5 to 6
minutes ; fried, 6 to 8 minutes.

Obs.— This, like most other forcemeats, is improved by being
well beaten in a large mortar after it is entirely mixed.

No. 8. FORCEMEAT FOR HARE-

The first receipt of this chapter will be found very good for
hare, without any variation; but the liver boiled for five
minutes, and finely minced, may be added to it, when it is
thought an improvement: another half ounce of butter, and a
small portion more of egg will then be required. A couple of
ounces of rasped bacon, and a glass of port-wine are sometimes
recommended for this forcemeat, but we think it is better
without them, especially when slices of bacon are used to line
the hare. A flavouring of minced onion, or eschalot can be
added, when the taste is in its favour; or the forcemeat No. 3
mav be substituted for this altogether. | |

No. 9. ONION AND SAGE STUFFING, FOR PORK, GEESE,
4 OR DUCKS.

Boil three large onions from ten to fifteen minutes, chop them
small, and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs,
a heaped. tablespoonful of minced sage, an ounce of butter, a
half -saltspoonful of pepper, and twice as much of salt, and put
them into the body of the goose; part of the liver boiled for

CHAP. VI. ] FORCEMEATS. 147

two or three minutes, and shred fine, is sometimes added to
these, and the whole is bound together with an egg-yolk or
two; but they are quite as frequently served without. The
onions can be used raw, when their very strong flavour is not
objected to, but the odour of the whole dish will then be some-
what overpowering.

Large onions, 3: boiled 20 to 30 minutes. Sage, 2 to 3
dessertspoonsful (or } to ? 0z.); butter, 1 oz.; pepper, 3 tea-
spoonful; salt, 1 teaspoonful.

No. 10. MR. COOKE’S FORCEMEAT FOR DUCKS OR GEESE»

Two parts of chopped onion, two parts of bread-crumbs,
three of butter, one of pounded sage, and a seasoning of pepper
and salt.

This receipt we have not proved.

wo. 11. FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR MOCK TURTLE SOUPS.

The French forcemeat, No. 17 of the present Chapter, is the
most elegant and appropriate forcemeat to serve in mock turtle,
but a more solid and highly seasoned one is usually added to it
in this country. In very common cookery the ingredients are
merely chopped small and mixed together with a moistening of
eggs; but when the trouble of pounding and blending them

_ properly is objected to, we would recommend the common veal
forcemeat, No. 1, in preference, as the undressed veal and suet,
when merely minced, do not produce a good effect. Four
ounces each of these, with an ounce or so of the lean of a boiled
ham, and three ounces of bread-crumbs, a large dessertspoonful
of minced parsley, a small portion of thyme, or marjoram, a
saltspoonful of white pepper, twice as much salt, or more, a
little cayenne, half a small nutmeg, and a couple of eggs, well
mixed with a fork first, to separate the meat, and after the
moistening is added, with the fingers, then rolled into balls, and
boiled in a little soup for twelve minutes, is the manner in
which it is prepared; but the reader will find the following
receipt very superior to it:—Rasp, that is to say, scrape with a

knife, clear from the fibre, four ounces of veal, which should be
cut into thick slices, and taken quite free from skin and fat ;

_chop it fine, and then pound it as smoothly as possible in a large

mortar, with three ounces of the rasped fat of an unboiled ham,
of good flavour, or of the finest bacon, and one of butter, two
ounces of bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of the lean of a boiled
ham, should it be at hand, a good seasoning of cayenne, nutmeg,
and mace, mixed together, a heaped dessertspoonful of minced

{

ie 1 ORS A ar
a oe

148 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI.

herbs, and the yolks of two eggs; poach a small bit when it is
mixed, and add any further seasoning it may require; and
when it is of good flavour, roll it into balls of moderate size, and
boil them twelve minutes ; then drain and slip them into the
soup. No forcemeat should be boiled in the soup itself, on
account of the fat which would escape from it in the process: a
little stock should be reserved for the purpose.

Very common:—Lean of neck of veal, 4 ozs.; beef-kidney
suet, 4 ozs., both finely chopped; bread-crumbs, 3 ozs.; minced
parsley, large dessertspoonful ; thyme or marjoram, small tea-
spoonful; lean of boiled ham, 1 to 2 ozs.; white pepper, 1 salt-
spoonful ; salt, twice as much ; 3 small nutmeg ; eggs, 2: in balls,
12 minutes.

Better forcemeat :—Lean veal rasped, 4 ozs.; fat of unboiled
ham, or finest bacon, 3 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. ;
lean of boiled ham, minced, 1 large tablespoonful ; minced herbs,
1 heaped dessertspoonful; full seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and
cayenne, mixed ; yolks of eggs, 2: 12 minutes.

no. 12. EGG BALLS.

Boil four or five new-laid eggs for ten or twelve minutes, and
lay them into fresh water until they are cold. Take out the
yolks, and pound them smoothly with the beaten yolk of one
raw egg, or more, if required; add a little salt and cayenne,
roll the mixture into very small balls, and boil them for two
minutes. Half a teaspoonful of flour is sometimes worked up
with the eggs.

Hard yolks of eggs, 4; 1 raw; little salt, cayenne : 2 minutes.

no. 13. BRAIN CAKES.

Wash and soak the brains well in cold water, and afterwards
in hot; then remove the skin and large fibres, and boil them in
water, slightly salted, from two to three minutes; beat them up
with a teaspoonful of sage, very finely chopped, or with equal
parts of sage and parsley, half a teaspoonful or rather more of
salt, half as much mace, a little white pepper or cayenne, and
one egg; drop them in small cakes, and fry them a fine light
brown: two yolks of eggs will make the cakes more delicate
than the white and yolk of one. A teaspoonful of flour and a
little lemon-grate are sometimes added. ,

NO. 14. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BRAIN CAKES.

Boil the brains in a little good veal-gravy very gently for ten
minutes ; drain them on a sieve, and when cold, cut them into

‘CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS. 149

thick dice ; dip them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into very
fine bread-crumbs, mixed with salt, pounded spices, and fine
herbs, minced extremely small; fry them of a light brown,
drain and dry them well, and slip them into the soup or hash
after it is dished. When broth or gravy is not at hand, the
brains may be boiled in water.

no. 15. CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT.

Strip the outer skin from some fine sound chestnuts, then
throw them into a saucepan of hot water, and set them over the
fire for a minute or two, when they may easily be blanched like
almonds. Put them into cold water as they are peeled. Dry
them in a cloth, and weigh them. Stew six ounces of them very
gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, za just sufficient strong
veal-gravy to cover them. Take them up, drain them on a
sieve, and when cold pound them perfectly smooth with half
their weight of the nicest bacon, rasped clear from all rust or
fibre, or with an equal quantity of fresh butter, two ounces of
dry bread-crumbs, a small teaspoonful of grated lemon rind,
one of salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, a moderate quantity
of cayenne, and the unbeaten yolks of two or of three eggs.
This mixture makes most excellent forcemeat cakes, which must
be moulded with a knife, a: spoon, or the fingers, dipped in
flour ; more should be dredged over, and pressed upon. them,
and they should be slowly fried from ten to fifteen minutes.

Chestnuts, 6 ozs.; veal-gravy, } of a pint: 15 to 20 minutes.
Bacon or butter, 3 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs.; lemon-peel and
salt, 1 teaspoonful each.

no. 16. AN EXCELLENT FRENCH FORCEMEAT.

Take six ounces of veal free from fat and skin, cut it into dice
and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a large
teaspoonful of parsley finely minced, half as much thyme, salt,
and grated lemon-rind, and a sufficient seasoning of nutmeg,
cayenne, and mace, to flavour it pleasantly. Stew these very
gently from twelve to fifteen minutes, then lift out the veal and
put into the saucepan two ounces of bread-crumbs; let them
simmer until they have absorbed the gravy yielded by the meat;
keep them stirred until they are as dry as possible; beat the

_ yolk of an egg to them while they are hot, and set them aside to

cool. Chop and pound the veal, add the bread to it as soon as
it is cold, beat them well together, with an ounce and a half of

fresh butter, and two of the finest bacon, scraped quite clear

| _ from rust, skin, and fibre; put to them the yolks of two

eerie Gt. |.
f as

150 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VI.

small eggs, and mix them well; then take the forcemeat from
the mortar, and set it in a very cool place until it is wanted for
use.

Veal, 6 ozs.; butter, 2 0zs.; minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful ;
thyme, salt, and lemon-peel, each 3 teaspoonful; little nut-
meg, cayenne, and mace: 12 to 15 minutes. Bread-crumbs,
2 ozs.; butter, 1} 0z.; rasped bacon, 2 ozs.; yolks of eggs,
2 to 3.

Obs. 1.—When this forcemeat is intended to fill boned fowls,
the livers of two or three, boiled for four minutes, or stewed
with the veal for the same length of time, then minced and
pounded with the other ingredients, will be found a great im-
provement; and, if mushrooms can be procured, two table-
spoonsful of them chopped small, should be stewed and beaten
with it also. A small portion of the best end of the neck will
afford the quantity of lean required for this receipt, and the re-
mains of it will make excellent gravy.

No. 17. FRENCH FORCEMEAT CALLED QUENELLES,
This is a peculiarly light and delicate kind of forcemeat,
which by good French cooks is compounded with exceeding
care. It is served abroad in a variety of forms, and is made of

very finely-grained white veal, or of the undressed flesh of —

poultry, or of rabbits, rasped quite free from sinew, then chopped
and pounded to the finest paste, first by itself, and afterwards
with an equal quantity of boiled calf’s udder or of butter, and
of panada, which is but another name for bread soaked in cream
or gravy and then dried over the fire until it forms a sort of

paste. As the three ingredients should be equal in volwme, not
in weight, they are each rolled into a separate ball before they .

are mixed, that their size may be determined by the eye. When
the fat of the fillet of veal (which in England is not often
divided for sale, as it is in France) is not to be procured, a rather
less proportion of butter will serve in its stead. The following
- will be found a very good, and not a troublesome receipt for
veal forcemeat of this kind.

Rasp quite clear from sinew, after the fat and skin have been
entirely cleared from it, four ounces of the finest veal; chop,
and pound it well: if it be carefully prepared there will be no
necessity for passing it through a sieve, but this should other-
wise be done. Soak in a small saucepan two ounces of the
crumb of a stale loaf in a little rich but pale veal gravy, or
white sauce; then press and drain as much as possible of the
moisture from it, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is as dry

CHAP. VI. | FORCEMEATS. 151

as it will become without burning: it will adhere in a ball to
the spoon, and leave the saucepan quite dry when it is sufficiently
done. Mix with it, while it is still hot, the yolk of one egg, and
when it is quite cold, add it to the veal with three ounces of very
fresh butter, a quarter-teaspoonful of mace, half as much
cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a saltspoonful of salt. When
these are perfectly beaten, and well blended together, add
another whole egg after having merely taken out the germs ;
the mixture will then be ready for use, and may be moulded

into balls, or small thick oval shapes, a little flattened, and

poached in soup or gravy from ten to fifteen minutes. These
quenelles may be served by themselves in a rich sauce, as a
corner dish, or in conjunction with other things. They may
likewise be first poached for three or four minutes, and left on
a drainer to become cold; then dipped into egg and the finest
bread-crumbs, and fried, and served as croquettes.

NO. 18. FORCEMEAT FOR RAISED AND OTHER COLD PIES.

The very finest sausage-meat, highly seasoned, and made with
an equal proportion of fat and lean, is an exceedingly good
forcemeat for veal, chicken, rabbit, and some few other pies ;
savoury herbs minced small, may be added to heighten its fla-
vour, if it be intended for immediate eating; but it will not
then remain good quite so long, unless they should have been
previously dried. .To prevent its being too dry, two or three
spoonsful of cold water should be mixed with it before it is put
into the pie. One pound of lean veal to one and a quarter of
the pork-fat is sometimes used, and smoothly pounded with a
high seasoning of spices, herbs, and eschalots, or garlic, but we

_ cannot recommend the introdyction of these last into pies unless

they are especially ordered : mushrooms may be mixed with any
kind of forcemeat with far better effect. Equal parts of veal —
and fat bacon, will also maxe a good forcemeat for pies, if
chopped finely, and well spiced.

Sausage-meat, well seasoned. Or: veal, 1 lb.; pork-fat,. -
1} Ib.;-salt, 1 0z.; pepper, + to 4 oz.; fine herbs, spice, &c., -
as in forcemeat No. 1, or sausage-meat. Or: veal and bacon,
equal weight, seasoned in the same way.

PANADA.

This is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed
with the French forcemeats, and which renders them so pecu-

liarly delicate. Pour on the crumb of two or three rolls, or on

that of any other very light bread, as much good boiling broth,

Pac ‘
Anh Sanaa

152 MODERN COOKERY. . [omap.-vry |

milk, or cream, as will cover and moisten it well; put a plate
over to keep in the steam, and let it remain for half an hour,
or more; then drain off the superfluous liquid, and squeeze the
panada dry by wringing it round in a thin cloth into a ball;
put it into a small stewpan, or well tinned saucepan, and pour
to it as much only of rich white sauce or of gravy, as it can
easily absorb, and stir it constantly with a wooden spoon, over
a clear and gentle fire, until it forms a very dry paste, and ad-
heres in a mass to the spoon; when it is in this state, mix with
it, thoroughly, the unbeaten yolk of two fresh eggs, which will
give it firmness, and set it aside to become quite cold before it
is put into the mortar. The best French cooks give the highest
degree of savour that they can to this panada, and add no other
seasoning to the forcemeats of which it forms a part: it is used
in an equal proportion with the meat, and calf’s udder or butter
of which they are composed, as we have shown in the preceding
receipt for quenelles. They stew slowly for the purpose, a
small bit of lean ham, two or three minced eschalots, a bayleaf,
a few mushrooms, a little parsley, a clove or two, and a small
blade of mace, in a little good butter, and when they are suffi-
ciently browned, pour to them as much broth or gravy as will
be needed for the panada; and when this has simmered from
twenty to thirty minutes, so as to have acquired the proper
flavour, without being much reduced, they strain it over, and
boil it into the bread. The common course of cookery in an
English kitchen does not often require the practice of the greater
niceties and refinements of the art: and trouble (of which the
French appear to be perfectly regardless when the excellence of
their preparations is concerned) is there in general so much
thought of, and exclaimed against, that a more summary pro-
cess would probably meet with a better chance of success.

A quicker and rougher mode of making the panada, and
indeed the forcemeat altogether, is to pour strong veal broth or
gravy upon it, and after it has soaked, to boil it-dry, without
any addition except that of a little fine spice, lemon-grate, or any
other favourite English seasoning. Minced herbs, salt, cayenne,
and mace may be beaten with the meat, to which a small
portion of well-pounded ham, may likewise be added at pleasure.

asi

CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 15s

Sy)
we

CHAPTER VU.
BOILING, ROASTING, &c.

TO BOIL MEAT.

Larce joints of meat should be neatly

trimmed, washed extremely clean, and Mas i
skewered or bound firmly into good @-s
shape, when they are of a nature to }
require it; then well covered with
coid water, brought to boil over a
moderate fire, and simmered until
they are done, the scum being care-
fully and entirely cleared from the
surface of the water, as it gathers
there, which will be principally from within a few minutes of
its beginning to boil, and during a few minutes afterwards. If
not thoroughly skimmed off at the, proper time, it will sink, and
adhere to the joint, giving it a very uninviting appearance.

We cannot too strongly again impress upon the cook the
advantages of gentle simmering over the usual fast-boiling of
meat, by which, as has been already forcibly shown (see article
Bouillon, Chapter I.), the outside is hardened and deprived of
its juices before the inside is half done, while the starting of
the fiesh from the bones which it occasions, and the altogether
ragged aspect which it gives, are most unsightly. Pickled or
salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh; and that which
is smoked and dried longer still. This last should always be
slowly heated, and if, from any circumstances, time cannot have
been allowed for soaking it properly, and there is a probability
of its being too salt when served, it should be brought very
softly to boil in a large quantity of water, which should in part
be changed as soon as it becomes quite briny, for as much more
that is ready boiling. _ .,

It is customary to lay large joints
upon a fish-plate, or to throw some Coes
wooden skewers under them, to
prevent their sticking to the vessel O
in which they are cooked; and it is \Y;
as wellto take the precaution, though,
unless they be placed over a very
fierce fire, they cannot be in danger
of this. ‘The time allowed for them Large Copper or Iron Stockpot.*

* The most suitable, and the most usual form of stockpot for making soup in

Iron Boiler.

154 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIT..

is about the same as for roasting, from fifteen to twenty minutes
to the pound. For cooking rounds of beef, and other ponderous
_ joints, a pan of this form is very convenient.

By means of two almost equally expensive preparations, called
a poélée, and a blanc, the insipidity which results from boiling
meat or vegetables in water only, may be removed, and the
whiteness of either will be better preserved. Turkeys, fowls,
sweetbreads, calf’s brains, cauliflowers, and artichoke bottoms,
are the articles for which the poélée and the blanc are more
especially used in refined foreign cookery: the reader will
judge by the following receipts how far they are admissible into
that of the economist.

POELEE.

Cut into large dice two pounds of lean veal, and two pounds
of fat bacon, cured without saltpetre, two large carrots, and two
onions; to these add half a pound of fresh butter, put the
whole into a stewpan, and stir it with a wooden spoon over a
gentle fire, until the veal is very white, and the bacon is partially
melted; then pour to them three pints of clear boiling broth or
water, throw in four cloves, a small bunch or two of thyme and
parsley, a bay-leaf, and a few corns of white pepper ; boil these
gently for an hour and a half, then strain the poélée through a
fine sieve, and set it by in acool place. Use it instead of water
for boiling the various articles we have already named: it will
answer for several in succession, and will remain good for many
days. Some cooks order a pound of butter in addition to the
bacon, and others substitute beef-suet in part for this last.

A BLANC.

Put into a stewpan one pound of fat bacon rasped, one pound
of beef-suet cut small, and one pound of butter, the strained
juice of two lemons, a couple of bay-leaves, three cloves, three
carrots, and three onions divided into dice, and less than half a
pint of water. Simmer these gently, keeping them often stirred,
until the fat is well melted, and the water has evaporated ; then
pour in rather more than will be required for the dish which is
to be cooked in the blanc ; boil it softly until all the ingredients
have given out their full flavour, skim it well, add salt if needed,
and strain it off for use. A calf’s head is often boiled in this.

large quantities is the deep one, which will be found at page 2; but the handles
should be at the sides as in that shown above, with others on the cover to corres-
pond (or with one in the centre of it), which, from some inadvertence, have been
omitted in the present engraving.

CHAP. VII. ] BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 155

ROASTING.

Roasting, which is quite the
favourite mode of dressing meat.
in this country, and one in which
the English are thought to excel,
requires unremitting attention on
the part of the cook, rather than
any great exertion of skill. Large
kitchens are usually fitted with a
smoke-jack, by means of which
several spits, if needful, can be
kept turning at the same time;
but in small establishments, a
roaster which allows of some eco-
nomy in point of fuel is more
commonly used. That shown in
the print is of very advantageous
construction in this respect, as a
joint may be cooked in it with a
comparatively small fire, the heat
being strongly reflected from the
screen upon the meat; in con- Bottle-jack and Niche Sereen.*
sequence of this, it should never be placed very close to the
grate, as the surface of the joint would then become dry and hard.

A more convenient form of
roaster, with a spit placed hori-
zontally, and turned by means of
a wheel and chain, of which the
movement is regulated by a spring
contained in a box at the top, is of
the same economical order as the
one above.

For roasting without either of
these, make up a fire propor-
‘tioned in width and height to the
joint which is to be roasted,
and which it should surpass in
dimensions every way, by two
or three inches. Place some
moderate-sized lumps of coal on
the top; let it be free from smoke Improved Spring-jack and
and ashes in front; and so com- Roaster.

* The bottle-jack, without the screen, is used in many families very success-

fully; it is wound up like a watch, by means of a key, and turns very regularly
until it has run down.

156 : MODERN COOKREY. - [CHAP. VII.

pactly arranged that it will neither require to.be disturbed,
nor supplied with fresh fuel, for some considerable time after
the meat is laid down. Spit the joint and place it very far from
the fire at first; keep it constantly basted, and when it is two
parts done, move it nearer to the fire that it may be properly
browned; but guard carefully against it being burned. A few
minutes before it is taken from the spit, sprinkle a little fine
salt over it, baste it thoroughly with its own dripping, or with
butter, and dredge it with flour: as soon as the froth is well
risen, dish, and serve the meat. Or, to avoid the necessity of
the frothing which is often greatly objected to on account of the
raw taste retained by the flour, dredge the roast liberally soon
after it is first laid to the fire ; the flour will then form a savoury
incrustation upon it, and assist to-prevent the escape of its juices.
When meat or poultry is wrapped in buttered paper it must not
be floured until this is removed, which should be fifteen or
twenty minutes before either is served.

Remember always to draw back the dripping-pan when the
fire has to be stirred, or when fresh coals are thrown on, that
the cinders and ashes may not fall into it.

When meat is very lean, a slice of butter, or a small quantity
of clarified dripping should be melted in the pan to baste it with
at first; though the use of the latter should be scrupulously
avoided for poultry, or any delicate meats, as the flavour it
imparts is to many persons peculiarly objectionable. Let the
spit be kept bright and clean, and wipe it before the meat is put ~
on; balance the joint well upon it, that it may turn steadily,
and if needful secure it with screw-skewers. A cradle spit,
which is so constructed that it contains the meat in a sort of
framework, instead of passing through it, may be often very
advantageously used instead of an ordinary one, as the perfora-
tion of the meat by this last must always occasion some escape
of the juices ; and it is, moreover, particularly to be objected to
in roasting joints or poultry which have been boned and filled
with forcemeat. The cradle spit (for which see “ Turkey
Boned. and Forced,” Chapter XII.) is much better suited to
these, as well as to a sucking pig, sturgeon, salmon, and other
large fish ; but it is not very commonly to be found in our
kitchens, many of which exhibit a singular scantiness of the
conveniences which facilitate the labours of the cook.

For heavy and substantial joints, a quarter of an hour is gene-
rally allowed for every pound of meat; and with a sound fire
and frequent basting, will be found sufficient when the process
is conducted in the usual manner; but by the slow method, as we
shall designate it, almost double the time will be required. Pork,

CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 157

veal, and lamb, should always be well roasted ; but many eaters
prefer mutton and beef rather under-dressed, though some per-
sons have a strong objection to the sight even of any meat that
is not thoroughly cooked.

Joints which are thin in proportion to their weight, require
less of the fire than thick and solid ones. Ribs of beef, for
example, will be sooner ready to serve than an equal weight of
the rump, round, or sirloin; and the neck or shoulder of mut-
ton, or spare rib of pork, than the leg.

When to preserve the succulence of the meat is more an
object than to economize fuel, beef and mutton should be laid at
twice the usual distance from the fire, and allowed to remain so
until they are perfectly heated through ; the roasting, so ma-
naged, will of course be slow ; and from three hours and a half
to four hours will be necessary to cook by this method a leg of
mutton of ordinary size, for which two hours would amply suf-
fice in a commen way ; but the flesh will be remarkably tender,
and the flew of gravy from it most abundant. It should not be
drawn near the fire until within-the last hour, and should then
be placed only so close as to brown it properly. No kind of
roast indeed should at any time be allowed to take colour too
quickly ; it should be heated gradually, and kept at least at a
moderate distance from the fire until it.is nearly done, or the
outside will be dry and hard, if not burned, while the inside will
be only half cooked.

STEAMING.
The application of steam to culinary

purposes is becoming very general in
our kitchens at the present day, espe-
cially in those of large establishments,
many of which are furnished with 7-7

apparatus for its use, so admirably
constructed, and so complete, that the
process may be conducted on an ex-
tensive scale, with very slight trouble
to the cook; and with the further
advantage of being at a distance from the fire, the steam being
conveyed by pipes to the vessels intended to receive it. Fish,
butcher’s meat, poultry, vegetables, puddings, maccaroni, and
rice, are all subjected to its action, instead of being immersed in
water, as in simple boiling ; and the result is to many persons
perfectly satisfactory; though, as there is a difference of
opinion amongst first-rate cooks, with regard to the comparative

Saucepan, with Steamer.

158 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. vit.

merits of the two modes of dressing meat and fish, a trial should
be given to the steaming, on a small scale, before any great -
expenses are incurred for it, which may be done easily with a
common saucepan or boiler, fitted like the one shown aboye,
with a simple tin steamer. Servants not accustomed to the use
of these, should be warned against boiling in the vessel itself
any thing of coarse or strong flavour, when the article steamed
is of a delicate nature. The vapour from soup containing
onions, for example, would have a very bad effect on a sweet
pudding especially, and on many other dishes. Care and dis-
cretion, therefore, must be exercised on this point. By means
of a kettle fixed over it, the steam of the boiler in the kitchen
range, may be made available for cooking, in the way shown by
the engraving, which exhibits fish,
potatoes, and their sauces, all in
progress of steaming at the same
time.* The limits of our work do
not permit us to enter at much
length upon this subject, but the
reader who may wish to under-
stand the nature of steam, and the
various modes in which its agency
may be applied to domestic pur-
poses, will do well to consult Mr.
Webster's excellent work,t of which we have more particularly
spoken in another chapter. ‘The quite inexperienced cook may
require to be told, that any article of food which is to be cooked
by steam in a saucepan of the form exhibited in the first of the
engravings of this section, must be prepared exactly as for
boiling, and laid into the sort of strainer affixed to the top of
the saucepan; and that water, or some other kind of liquid,
must be put into the saucepan itself, and kept boiling in it, the
lid being first closely fixed into the steamer.

a00%00000

STEWING.

This very wholesome, convenient, and economical mode of
cookery is by no means so well understood nor profited by in
England as on the continent, where its advantages are fully
appreciated. So very small a quantity of fuel is necessary to
sustain the gentle degree of ebullition which it requires, that
this alone would recommend it to the careful housekeeper; but

* Invented and sold by Mr. EvAns, Fish-street Hill,
t Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. LONGMAN & Co.

CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 159

if the process be skilfully
conducted, meat softly
stoved or stewed, in close-
shutting, or luted vessels,
isin every respect equal, if |
not superior, to that which
is roasted ; but it must be
simmered only, and in the
gentlest possible manner,
or,- instead of being ten-
der, nutritious, and highly
po It will be dry, Hot Plate, or Hearth.

ard, and indigestible.
The common cooking stoves in this country, as they have
hitherto been constructed, have rendcred the exact regula-
tion of heat which stewing requires rather difficult; and
the smoke and blaze of a large coal fire are very unfavourable
to many other modes of cookery as well. The French have
generally the advantage of the embers and ashes of the wood
which is their ordinary fuel ; and they have always, in addit‘on,
a stove of this construction in which charcoal or brazse (for
explanation of this word, see remarks on preserving, Chapter
XXI.) only is burned; and upon which their stewpans can,
when there is occasion, be left un- oe 2 nee: a
covered, without the danger of <-Ze/ 4—/ \
their contents being spoiled, which
there generally is with us. It is
true that of late great improve-
ments have been made in our own
stoves; and the hot plates, or hearths
with which the kitchens of good houses are always furnished,
are admirably adapted to the simmering system; but when the
cook has not the convenience of one, the stewpans must be
placed on trevets high above the fire, and be constantly watched,
and moved, as occasion may require, nearer to, or further from
the flame.

No copper vessels from which the inner tinning is in the
slightest degree worn away should be used ever for this or for
. any other kind of cookery; or not health only, but life itself,
_ may be endangered by them.* We have ourselves seen a dish

* Sugar, being an antidote to the poisonous effects of verdigris, should be
plentifully taken, dissolved in water, so as to form quite a syrup, by persons who
may unfortunately have partaken of any dish into which this dangerous ingre-
dient has entered.

160 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIt.

of acid fruit which had been boiled without sugar, in a copper
pan from which the tin lining was half worn away, coated with
verdigris after it had become cold; and from the careless habits
of the person who had prepared it, the chances were greatly in
favour of its being served to a family afterwards, if it had not
been accidently discovered. Salt acts upon the copper in the
same manner as acids: vegetables, too, from the portion of the
latter which they contain, have the same injurious effect ; and
the greatest danger results from allowing preparations contain-
ing any of these to become cold (or cool) in the stewpan, in
contact with the exposed part of the copper in the inside.
Thick, well-tinned iron saucepans will answer for all the ordi-.
nary purposes of common English cookery, even for stewing,
provided they have tightly-fitting lids to prevent the escape of
the steam; but the copper ones are of more convenient form,
and better adapted to a superior order of cookery.

We shall have occasion to speak more particularly in another
part of this work, of the German enamelled stewpans, so safe,
and so well suited, from the extreme nicety of the composition,
resembling earthenware or china, with which they are lined, to
all delicate compounds. The cook should be warned, however,
that they retain the heat so long, that the contents will boil for
several minutes after they are removed from the fire, and this
must be guarded against when they have reached the exact
point, at which further boiling would have a bad effect; as
would be the case with some preserves, and other sweets.

BROILING.

Broiling is the best possible mode of cooking and of preserv-
ing the flavour of several kinds of fish, amongst which we may
specify mackerel and whitings ;*
it is also incomparably superior to
frying for steaks and cutlets, espe-
cially of beef and mutton; and it —
is far better adapted, also, to the
preparation of food for invalids ;
but it should be carefully done,

Sts for if the heat be too fierce, the
aT as outside of the meat will bescorched
ae and hardened so as to render it

A Conjurer. uneatable; and if, on the con-

* Salmon broiled in slices, is a favourite dish with eaters who like the full rich
flavour of the fish preserved, as it is much more luscious (but less delicate)
dressed thus than when it is boiled. The slices should be cut from an inch to an

CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 161

trary, it be too gentle, the gravy will be drawn out, and yet the
lesh will remain so entirely without firmness, as to be unplea-
sant eating. <A brisk fire perfectly free from smoke, a very
clean gridiron, tender meat, a dish and plates as hot as they can
be, and great despatch in sending it to table when done, are all
essential to the serving of a good broil. The gridiron should be
well heated, and rubbed with mutton suet before the meat is
laid on, and it should be placed slopingly over the fire, that the
fat may run off to the back of the grate, instead of falling on
the live coals and smoking the meat: if this precaution should
not prevent its making an occasional blaze, lift the gridiron
quickly beyond the reach of the smoke, and hold it away until
the fire is clear again. Steaks and chops should be turned
often, that the juices may be kept in, and that they may be
equally done in every part. If, for this purpose, it should be
necessary, for want of steak-tongs, to-use a fork, it should be
passed through the outer skin, or fat of the steak, but never
stuck into the lean, as by that means much of the gravy will
escape. Most eaters prefer broiled beef or mutton, rather
under-dressed; but pork chops should always be thoroughly
cooked. When a fowl or any other bird is cut asunder before
it is broiled, the inside should first be laid to the fire: this
should be done with kidneys also. Fish is less dry, and of bet-
ter flavour, as well as less liable to be smoked, if it be wrapped
in a thickly buttered sheet of writing paper before it is placed
on the gridiron. For the more delicate-skinned kinds, the bars
should be rubbed with chalk instead of suet, when the paper is
omitted. Cutlets, or meat in any other form, when egged and
crumbed for broiling, should afterwards be dipped into clarified
butter, or sprinkled with it plentifully, as the egg-yolk and
bread will otherwise form too dry a crust upon it. French
cooks season their cutlets both with salt and pepper, and brush
a little oil or butter over them to keep them moist; but unless
this be done, no seasoning of salt should be given them until
they are just ready to be dished: the French method is a very
good one.

inch and a half thick, and taken from the middle of a very fresh salmon; they
may be seasoned with cayenne only, and slowly broiled over a very clear fire;
or, folded in buttered paper before they are laid on the gridiron; or, lightly
brushed with oil, and highly seasoned; or, dipped into egg-yolks and then into
the finest crumbs mixed with salt, spice, and plenty of minced herbs, then
sprinkled with clarified butter; but in whichever way they are prepared they will
require to be gently broiled, with every precaution against their being smoked.
‘From half to three quarters of an hour will cook them. Dried salmon cut into
thin slices, is merely warmed through over a slow fire.

162 MODERN COOKERY. — [cHAP. VII.

Steaks or cutlets may be quickly cooked
ey with a sheet or two of lighted paper only,
yea in the apparatus shown in the preceding
page, and called a conjurer. Lift off the
cover and lay in the meat properly sea-
soned, with a small slice of butter under it,
and insert the lighted paper in the aper-
=», ture shown in the plate; in from eight to
| ten minutes the meat will be done, and
) found to be remarkably tender, and very
| palatable: it must be turned and moved
occasionally during the process. This is an
| especially convenient mode of cooking for
| persons whose hours of dining are rendered
| uncertain by the nature of their avocations.
For medical men engaged in extensive
country practice it has been often proved
so. The conjurer costs but a few shillings. Another form of
this economical apparatus, with which a pint of water may be
made to boil by means of only a sheet of paper wrapped round
@ cone, in the inside, is shown in the second plate.

FRYING.
This is an operation, which, though

eS apparently very simple, requires to be
C—y more oaire nine and skilfully conducted
“Lee than it commonly is. Its success de-
pends principally on allowing the fat to
Sauté Pan. attain the exact degree of heat which

shall give firmness, without too quick browning or scorching,
before anything is laid into the pan; for if this be neglected
the article fried will be saturated with the fat, and remain pale
and flaccid. When the requisite degree of colour is acquired
before the cooking is complete, the pan should be placed high
above the fire, that it may be continued slowly to the proper
point. Steaks and cutlets should be seasoned with salt and
pepper, and dredged on both sides lightly with flour before
they are laid into the pan, in which they should be often
moved and turned, that they may be equally done, and that
they may not stick nor burn to it. From ten to fifteen minutes
will fry them. ‘They should be evenly sliced, about the same
thickness as for broilmg, and neatly trimmed and divided in the
first instance. Lift them into a hot dish when done; pour the
fat from the pan, and throw in a small slice of butter; stir to

CHAP, VII.] BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 163

this a large teaspoonful of flour, brown it gently, and pour in
by degrees a quarter-pint of hot broth or water; shake the pan
well round, add pepper, salt, and a little good catsup, or any
other store sauce which may be preferred to it, and pour the
gravy over the steaks: this is the most common mode of saucing
and serving them.

Minute directions for fish, and others for omlets, and for
different preparations of batter, are given in their proper
places; but we must again observe, that a very small frying-
pan (scarcely larger than a dinner-plate) is necessary for many
of these ; and, indeed, the large and ¢hick one suited to meat
and fish, and used commonly for them, is altogether unfit for
nicer purposes.

The sauté-pan, shown in the preceding page, is much used by
French cooks instead of a frying-pan ; it is more particularly
convenient for tossing quickly over the fire small collops, or
aught else which requires but little cooking.

All fried dishes, which are not sauced, should be served ex-
tremely dry, upon a neatly-folded damask cloth: they are best
drained, upon a sieve reversed, placed before the fire.

A wire basket of this form is
convenient for frying parsley
and other herbs. It must be
placed in a pan well filled with
fat, and lifted out quickly
when the herbs are done: they :
may likewise be crisped. in it Wire Basket for Frying.
over a clear fire, without being fried.

SSS

RtR SSS

—

S35
x

"BAKING.

The oven may be used with
advantage for many purposes of
cookery, for which it is not
commonly put into requisition.
Calves’ feet, covered with a pro-
per proportion of water, may be
reduced to a strong jelly if left in
it for some hours; the half-head, |
boned and rolled, will be found
excellent eating, if laid, with the
bones, into a deep pan and baked ul
quite tender in sufficient broth, American Oven.*

“ By means of this oven, which, from its construction, reflects the heat very

164 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. VII.

or water, to keep it covered in every part until done; good soup
also may be made in the same way, the usual ingredients being
at. once added to the meat, with the exception of the vegetables,
' which will not become tender if put into cold liquor, and should
therefore be thrown in after it begins to simmer. Baking is

likewise one of the best modes of dressing various kinds of fish:

pike and red mullet amongst others. Salmon cut into thick
slices, freed from the skin, well seasoned with spice, mixed with
salt (and with minced herbs, at pleasure), then arranged evenly
in a dish, and covered thickly with crumbs of bread, moistened
with clarified butter, as directed in Chapter II., for baked soles,
and placed in the oven for about half an hour, will be found very
rich and highly flavoured. . Part of the middle of the salmon
left entire, well cleaned, and thoroughly dried, then seasoned,
and securely wrapped in two or three folds of thickly buttered
paper, will also prove excellent eating, if gently baked. (This

may likewise be roasted in a Dutch oven, either folded in the ©

paper, or left without it, and basted with butter.)

Hams, when freshly cured, and not over salted, if neatly
trimmed, and closely wrapped in a coarse paste, are both more
juicy, and of finer flavour baked than boiled. Savoury or
pickled beef, too, put into a deep pan, with a little gravy, and
plenty of butter, or chopped suet on the top, to prevent the
outside from becoming dry; then covered with paste, or with
several folds of thick paper, and set into a moderate oven for
four or five hours, or even longer, if it be of large weight, is an
excellent dish. A’ goose, a leg of pork, and a sucking pig, if

properly attended to while in the oven, are said to be nearly, or |

quite as good as if roasted; but baking is both an unpalatable
and an unprofitable mode of cooking joints of meat in general,
though its great convenience to many persons who have but few
other facilities for obtaining the luxury of a hot dinner renders
it a very common one.

It is usual to raise meat from the dish in which it is sent to
the oven by placing it, properly skewered, on a stand, so as to
allow potatoes or a batter pudding to be baked under it. A few
button onions, freed from the outer skin, or three or four large
ones, cut in halves, are sometimes put beneath a shoulder of
mutton. ‘Two sheets of paper spread separately with a thick

strongly, bread, cakes, and pies, can be perfectly well baked before a large clear
fire; but, as we have stated in another part of our work, the consumption of fuel
necessary to the process renders it far from economical. <A spit has lately been
introduced into some of the American ovens, converting them at once into
portable and convenient rcasters,

CHAP. VII. } BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 165

layer of butter, clarified marrow, or any other fat, and fastened
securely over the outside of a joint, will prevent its being too
much dried by the fierce heat of the oven. A few spoonsful of
water or gravy should be poured into the dish with potatoes,
and a little salt sprinkled over them.

A celebrated French cook recommends bratsing in the oven :
that is to say, after the meat has been arranged in the usual
manner, and just brought to boil over the fire, that the braising
pan, closely stopped, should be put into 2 moderate oven, for the
same length of time as would be required to stew the meat
perfectly tender.

BRAISING.

Braising is but a more expen-
sive mode of stewing meat. The
following French recipe will ex-
plain the process. We would
observe, however, that the layers
of beef or veal, in which the joint
to be braised is imbedded, can
afterwards be converted into ex-
cellent soup, gravy, or glaze ; and English Braising-pan.
that there need, in consequence, be no waste, nor any unreasun-
able degree of expense attending it; but it is a troublesome
process, and quite as good a result may be obtained by simmer-
ing the meat in very strong gravy. Should the flavour of the
bacon be considered an advantage, slices of it can be laid over
the article braised, and secured to it with a fillet of tape.

“ To braise the inside (or small fillet, as it is called in France)
of a sirloin of beef: Raise the fillet clean from the joint ; and
with a sharp knife strip off all the skin, leaving tie surface of the
meat as smooth as possible ; have ready some strips of unsmoked.
bacon, half as thick as your little finger, roll them in a mix-
ture of thyme finely minced, spices in powder, and a little pepper
and salt. Lard the fillet quite through with these, and tie it
round with tape in any shape you choose. Line the bottom of
a stewpan (or braising-pan) with slices of bacon; next put in a
layer of beef, or veal, four onions, two bay-leaves, two carrots,
and a bunch of sweet herbs, and place the fillet on them.
Cover it with slices of bacon, put some trimmings of meat all
round it, and pour on to it half a pint of good bouillon or gravy.
Let it stew as gently as possible for two hours and a half; take
it up, and keep it very hot; strain, and reduce the gravy by
quick boiling until it is thick enough to glaze with; brush the

166 “MODERN COOKERY. — [cHAP. vit:

meat over with it; put the rest in the dish with the fillet, after
a tape has been removed from it, and send it directly to
table.” |
Equal parts of Madeira and gravy are sometimes used to
moisten the meat.
No attempt should be made to braise a joint in any vessel
that is not very nearly of its own size. :
A round of buttered paper is generally put over the more ~
delicate kinds of braised meat, to prevent their being browned
by the fire, which in France is put round the lid of the braising-
pan, in a groove made on purpose to contain it. The embers of
a wood fire mixed with the hot ashes, are best adapted to sustain
the regular, but gentle degree of heat-required for this mode of
cooking.
The pan shown at the head of this section, with a oma
fitting copper tray, serving for the
ee pa) is used Soamnnnly in Eng-
Z land for braising; but a stewpan
of modern form, or any other
vessel which will admit of embers
being placed upon the lid, will
answer for the purpose aswell. __
Copper Stewpan. Common cooks sometimes stew
meat in a mixture of butter and water, and call tt braising.

LARDING.

———<———— eee)
ee

Larding Pins.

Cut into slices, of the same length and thickness, some. bacon
of the finest quality ; trim away the outsides, place the slices
evenly upon each other, and with a sharp knife divide them
obliquely into small strips of equal size. For pheasants, par-
tridges, hares, fowls, and fricandeaux, the bacon should be about
the eighth of an inch square, and two inches in length ; but for
meat which is to be larded quite through, instead of on the
outside merely, the bits of bacon (properly called lardoons) must
be at least the third of an inch square. /

In general, the breasts only of birds are larded, the backs and
thighs of hares, and the whole of the upper surface of a frican-
deau: these should be thickly covered with small lardoons,

CHAP. VII, ] BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 167

placed at regular intervals, and in lines which intersect each
other, so as to form rather minute diamonds.

The following directions for larding.a pheasant will serve
equally for poultry, or for other kinds of game :—

Secure one end of the bacon in a slight larding-pin, and on
the point of this take up sufficient of the flesh of the bird to
hold the lardoon firmly ; draw the pin through it, and part of
the bacon, of which the two ends should be left of equal length.
Proceed thus, until the breast of the pheasant is entirely gar-
nished with lardoons, when it ought to resemble in appearance
a cake thickly stuck with slips of almonds.

The larger strips of bacon, after being rolled in a high sea-
soning of minced herbs and spices, are used to lard the inside
of meat, and they should be proportioned to its thickness, as
they must be passed quite through it. For example: a four-
inch slice from a rump of beef will require lardoons of very
nearly that length, which must be drawn through with a large
larding-pin, and left in it, with the ends just out of sight on
either side.

In France, truffles, anchovies, slices of tongue, and of fat,
all trimmed into proper shape, are occasionally used for larding.
The bacon employed there for the purpose is cured without any
saltpetre (as this would redden the white meats), and it is never
smoked: the receipt for it will be found in Chapter XI.

A turkey is sometimes larded with alternate lardoons of fat
bacon and of bullock’s tongue, which has been pickled but
not dried: we apprehend that the lean of a half-boiled ham,
of good colour, could answer the purpose quite as well, or
better.

Larding the surface of meat, poultry, or game, gives it a good
appearance, but it is a more positive improvement to meat of a
dry nature to interlard the inside with large lardoons of well-
seasoned, delicate, striped English bacon. |

BONING.

Very minute directions being given in other parts of our
volume for this, we confine ourselves here to the following
rules :—in disengaging the flesh from it, work the knife always
He to the bone, and take every care not to pierce the outer
skin.

TO BLANCH MEAT OR VEGETABLES.
This is merely to throw either into a pan of boiling water for

168 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap, vit.

a few minutes, which gives firmness to the first, and is necessary
for some modes of preparing vegetables.

The breast only of a bird is sometimes held in the water
while it boils, to render it firm for larding. To preserve the
whiteness of meat, and the bright green of vegetables, they are
lifted from the water after they have boiled a few minutes,
and are thrown immediately into spring water, and left till
cold. |

5 to 10 minutes.

GLAZING.

This process we have explained
at the article Glaze, Chapter ITI.
The surface of the meat should be
covered evenly, with two or three
separate layers of the glaze, which,
Jif properly made, soon becomes
firm. A ham should be well dried
in the oven before it is laid on.
Cutlets of all kinds may be glazed
before they are sent to table, with
very good effect. The figure above
represents a glaze-pot and brush,
used for heating and applying the preparation: a jar placed in
a pan of boiling water may be substituted for the first, when it -
is not at hand.

TOASTING.

A. very cheap apparatus, by which chops can be dressed before
a clear fire, is shown by the first of these figures; and the second
is peculiarly convenient when bread or muffins are required to
be toasted expeditiously and in large quantities, without much
time and attention being bestowed upon them.

CHAP. VIII. | BEEF. 169

To brown the surface of a dish without baking or placing tt at
the fire. .

This is done with a salamander, as it is called, formed like the
engraving below; it is heated in the fire, and held over the dish
sutiiciently near to give it colour. It is very much used in a
superior order of cookery. A kitchen shovel is sometimes sub-
stituted for it on an emergency.

CHAPTER VIII.

BEEF.

No. No.

1. Sirloin. 11, Middle Rib, (Four Ribs.)
2. Rump. 12. Chuck Rib. (Three Ribs.)
3. Edge-bone. 13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton

4. Buttock, or Round. Piece.
5. Mouse Buttock. 14, Brisket.
6. Veiny Piece. 15. Clod.
7, Thick Flank. “ 16. Neck.
8. Thin Flank. 17. Shin. .

9. Leg. 18. Cheek.

10. Fore Rib. (Five Ribs.)

——— ee

170 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. VIII.

TO CHOOSE BEEF.

If young and freshly killed, the lean of ox-beef will be
smoothly grained, and of a fine, healthy, carnation-red, the
fat rather white than yellow, and the suet white and firm.
Heiftr-beef is more closely grained, and rather less bright of
colour, the bones are coasiderably smaller, and the fat of a purer
white. ‘

- Of bull-beef we only speak to warn our readers, that it is of all
meat the coarsest and the most rank in flavour. It may be
known by its dark hue, its close tough fibre, and the scanty
proportion, bad appearance, and strong odour of its fat.

In choice and well-fed beef, the lean will be found intergrained
with fat: very lean meat is always of an inferior quality.

The ribs, the sirloin, and the rump, are the proper joints for
roasting. The round, or buttock, the edgebone, the second
round, or mouse~buttock, the shin, the brisket, the shoulder or leg
of mutton piece, and the clod may be boiled or stewed. The
neck is generally used for soup or gravy; and the thin flank for
collaring. The best steaks are cut from the middle of the rump;
the next best from the veiny piece, or from the chuck-rib. The
inside of the sirloin, commonly used for the purpose in France,
makes by far the most delicate steaks; but though exceedingly
tender, they are considered by English epicures to be wanting
in flavour.

The finest part of the sirloin is the chump-end, which contains
the larger portion of the fillet: of the ribs, the middle ones are
those generally preferred by experienced housekeepers.

TO ROAST SIRLOIN, OR RIBS OF BEEF.

Let the joint hang as long as it can possibly be kept perfectly
sweet. When it is first brought in, remove the pipe of marrow
which runs along the backbone; and cut out the kernels from
the fat. Be very careful in summer to guard it from flies;
examine it frequently in warm or damp weather; and scrape off
with a knife, or wipe away with a dry cloth, any moisture which
may appear on the surface: when this has been done, dust some
powdered ginger or pepper over it. Unless the joint should be
very large, its appearance will be improved by taking off the
ends of the bones, which may then be laid in salt for a few days,
and afterwards boiled. Spit the beef firmly; keep it far back
from the fire until it is well heated through ; baste it constantly;
and proceed as directed in the general rules for roasting (see
page 155). Persons who ojpject to meat being frothed for table, »

CHAP. VIII.] BEEPS (1°37 171

have it dredged with flour when it is first placed at the fire, and
sprinkled with fine salt when it is nearly done. It is not neces-
sary to paper the fat of beef, as many cooks direct, if proper
attention be given to it while roasting.

As a general rule, it may be observed, that when the steam
.rom the meat draws strongly towards the fire, it is nearly or
quite ready to serve. The time required to roast it will depend
on the state of the weather,* the size and strength of the fire,
the thickness of the joint, the use or, non-use of a meat-screen
or reflector, the general temperature of the kitchen, and other
contingencies. A quarter of an hour for each pound of meat
is commonly allowed for solid, heavy joints, and, if the direc-
tions we have given be attended to, this will not be found too
much even for persons who prefer beef somewhat rere: it must
be left longer at the fire if wished very thoroughly roasted, and
quite double the usual time when the plan we have noiiced at
page 157, is adopted. When likely to be sent to table hashed,
minced, or dressed a second time in any way, the juices of the
meat should be dried up as little as possible when it is first
cooked.

ROAST RUMP OF BEEF.

As this joint is generally too large to serve whole, as much of
it as will form a handsome dish should be cut from the chump
end to roast. It must be managed as the sirloin, to which it is
commonly preferred by connoisseurs. When boned and rolled
into the form of a fillet of veal, as it sometimes is, nearly or
quite an additional hour should be allowed to dress it.

TO ROAST PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF.

The natural division of the meat will show where the silver
side of the round is to be separated from the upper or tongue
side, which is the proper part for roasting, and which will be
found equally good and profitable for the purpose, if allowed to
hang as long as it can be kept sweet before it is dressed. Care
should be taken in dividing the meat, not to pierce the inner
skin. The silver side, with the udder, if there should be one
to the joint, may be pickled, spiced, or simply salted, and will
be excellent either way. The outside fat should be drawn
tightly round the remainder of the beef, which must be firmly
skewered, or bound with tape, to keep it in form. It will

* The meat will be much sooner done in hot weather than in cold. If frozen,
it must be thawed very gradually before it is put to the fire, or no length of

time will roast it; this will be effected better by laying it into cold water for some
hours before it is wanted, than by any other means,

172 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. VIII.
X

require long roasting at a strong, steady fire, and should be
kept constantly basted. 3
Beef, 14 lbs.: 43 to 5 hours.
Obs.—We think that larding the beef quite through with
large lardoons of firm fat, of udder, or of bacon, would be an
improvement; and we ought also to observe, that unless it be
young and of fine quality, it will not answer well for roasting,

TO ROAST A FILLET OF BEEF.

Raise the fillet from the inside of the sirloin, or from part of
_ it, with a sharp knife; leave the fat on, trim off the skin, lard
it through, or all over, or roast it, quite plain; baste it with
butter, and send it very hot to table, with tomata sauce, or sauce
piquante, or eschalot sauce, ina tureen. It is sometimes served
with brown gravy and currant jelly; it should then be garnished
with forcemeat-balls, made as for hare. If not very large, an
hour and a quarter will roast it well with a brisk fire.

Obs.—The remainder of the joint may be boned, rolled, and
roasted, or braised; or made into meat cakes; or served as a
miniature round of beef.

1 hour, 15 minutes.

ROAST BEEF STEAK.

If extremely tender, a large slice from the middle of the
rump will make an excellent small dish of roast meat, when a
joint is not easily to be procured. Let it be smoothly cut, from
an inch to an inch and a half thick, flattened on a table, and
the inside sprinkled with a little fine salt and cayenne, or com-
mon pepper. Make a roll of forcemeat, as No. 1 (page 143),
adding, at pleasure, a flavouring of minced onion or eschalot,
and increasing the quantity of spices; place this on one end of
the steak, and roll it up tightly in it; skewer and bind the meat
so that the forcemeat cannot escape, fasten a buttered paper
over it, and roast it an hour and a half, or more, according to
its size. ‘Twenty minutes before it is served, take off the paper,
and flour the meat, which should be kept well basted with but-
ter all the time it is roasting. Send brown gravy to table with
it, and pour a little over the beef.

1} hour, or more.

TO BROIL BEEF STEAKS.

The steaks should be from half to three quarters of an inch
thick, equally sliced, and freshly cut from the middle of a well
kept, finely grained, and tender rump of beef. They should he

CHAP. VIII. ] BEEF. 173

neatly trimmed, and once or twice divided, if very large. The
fire, as we have already said in the general directions for broil-
ing (page 160), must be strong and clear. The bars of the
gridiron should be thin, and not very close together. When
they are thoroughly heated, without being sufficiently burning
to scorch the meat, wipe and rub them with fresh mutton suet ;
next pepper the steaks slightly, but never season them with
salt before they are dressed; lay them on the gridiron, and
when done on one side, turn them on the other, being careful to
catch, in the dish in which they are to be sent to table, any
gravy which may threaten to drain from them when they are
moved. Let them be served the instant they are taken from the
fire; and have ready at the moment, dish, cover, and plates, as
hot as they can be. From eight to ten minutes will be sufficient
to broil steaks for the generality of eaters, and more than
enough for those who like them but partially done.

Genuine amateurs seldom take prepared sauce or gravy with
their steaks, as they consider the natural juices of the meat suf-
ficient. When any accompaniment to them is desired, a small
quantity of choice mushroom catsup may be warmed in the dish
that is heated to receive them; and which, when the not very
refined flavour of a raw eschalot is liked, as it is by some eaters,
may previously be rubbed with one, of which the large end has
been cut off. A thin slice or two of fresh butter is sometimes
jaid under the steaks, where it soon melts and mingles with the
gravy which flows from them. ‘The appropriate tureen sauces
for broiled beef steaks are onion, tomata, oyster, eschalot, hot
horseradish, and brown cucumber, or mushroom sauce.

Obs. 1.—We have departed a little in this receipt from our
previous instructions for broiling, by recommending that the
steaks should be turned but once, instead of “often,” as all
great authorities on the subject direct. By trying each method,
our readers will be able to decide for themselves upon the pre-
ferable one: we can only say, that we have never eaten steaks
so excellent as those which have been dressed exactly in accord-
ance with the receipt we have just given, and we have taken
infinite pains to ascertain the really best mode of preparing
this very favourite English dish, which so constantly makes its
appearance both carelessly cooked and ill served, especially at
private tables.

Obs. 1.—It is a good plan to throw a few bits of charcoal on
the fire some minutes before the steaks are laid down, as they
give forth a strong heat without any smoke.

The upright gridirons, by which meat is rather toasted than

174 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII.»

broiled, though used in many kitchens and generally pronounced

exceedingly convenient, where they have been tried, do not —

appear to us so well adapted for dressing, steaks as those of less
-modern fashion, which are placed over, instead of before the

fire.

BEEF STEAKS A LA FRANGCAISE.

The inside of the sirloin freed from skin, and cut evenly into
round quarter-inch slices, should properly be used for these ; but
when it cannot be obtained, part of the ramp must be substituted
for it. Season the steaks with fine salt and pepper, brush them
with a little clarified butter, and boil them over a clear, brisk
fire. Mix a teaspoonful of parsley, minced extremely fine, with
a large slice of fresh butter, a little cayenne, and a small quan-
tity of salt. When the steaks are done, put the mixture into the
dish intended for them, and lay them upon it; garnish them
plentifully with fried potatoes. It is an improvement to squeeze
the juice of half'a lemon on the butter, before the meat is heaped
over it. ‘The potatoes should be sliced rather. thin, coloured of
a fine brown, and placed evenly round the meat.

BEEF STEAKS A LA FRANGAISE (ENTREE.)
(Another Recerpt.)

Cut the beef into small thin steaks as above, season them with
fine salt and pepper, dredge them lightly with flour, and fry
them in butter over a brisk fire; arrange them in a chain round
a very hot dish, and pour into the centre the olive sauce of

_ page 124.

STEWED BEEF STEAK (ENTREE).

This may be cut from one to two inches thick, and the time
of stewing it must be proportioned to its size. Dissolve a slice
of butter in a large saucepan or stewpan, and brown the steak
on both sides, moving it often that it may not burn; then shake
in a little flour, and when it is coloured pour in by degrees
rather more than sufficient broth or water to cover the meat.
When it boils, season it with salt, take off the scum, slice in one
onion, a carrot or two, and half a turnip; add a small bunch of
sweet herbs, and stew the steak very softly from two hours and
a half to three hours. A quarter of an hour before it is served,
stir well into the gravy three teaspoonsful of rice flour smoothly
mixed with a little cayenne, half a wineglassful of mushroom

catsup, and a slight seasoning of spice. A teaspoonful of currie
powder, in addition, will improve both the flavour and the ap-

CHAP. VIII. | BEEF. . 175

pearance of the sauce. The onion is sometimes browned with
the meat; and the quantity is considerably increased. Eschalots
may be used instead, where their strong flavour is approved.
A few button-mushrooms, stewed from twenty to thirty minutes
with the meat, will render the catsup unnecessary. Wine, or
any favourite store sauce, can be added at will.

2: to 3 hours.

FRIED BEEF STEAK.

We have little to add here to the directions of page 162, which
are sufficient to enable the cook to send a dish of fried steaks
to table properly dressed. Currie sauce, highly onioned, is fre-
quently served with them.

BEEF STEAK STEWED IN ITS OWN GRAVY.
(Good and wholesome.)

Trim all the fat and skin from a rump steak of nearly an
inch thick, and divide it once or twice; just dip it into cold
water, let it drain for an instant, sprinkle it on both sides with
pepper, and then flour it rather thickly ; lay it quite flat into a
well-tinned iron saucepan or stewpan, which has been rinsed
with cold water, of which a tablespoonful should be left in it.
Place it over (not upon) a very gentle fire, and keep it just sim-
mering from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters,
when, if the meat be good, it will have become perfectly tender.
Add salt to it when it first begins to boil, and turn it when
rather more than half done. A couple of spoonsful of gravy,
half as much catsup, and a slight seasoning of spice, would, to
many tastes, improve this dish, of which, however, the great
recommendation is its wholesome simplicity, which renders it
suitable to the most delicate stomach. A thick mutton cutlet
from the middle of the leg is excellent dressed thus.

1} to 13 hour.

BEEF OR MUTTON CAKE.
(Very good.)

Chop two pounds of lean and very tender beef or mutton,
with three quarters of a pound of beef suet; mix them well,
and season them with a dessertspoonful of salt, nearly as much
pounded cloves, a teaspoonful of pounded mace, and half a tea-
spoonful of cayenne. Line a round baking dish with thin
slices of fat bacon, press the meat closely into it, smooth the
top, and cover it with bacon, set a plate on it with a weight, and
bake it two hours and a quarter. Take off the bacon, and

176 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP, VIII.

serve the meat hot, with a little rich brown gravy, or set it by
until cold, when it will be equally good. The fat of the meat
which is used for this dish can be chopped up with it instead
of suet, where it is liked as well; and onion, or eschalot, shred
fine, minced savoury herbs, grated lemon-peel, rasped bacon,
or mushrooms cut small, may in turn be added to vary it in
flavour.

Lean beef or mutton, 2 Ibs.; suet, 2 1b.; salt and cloves in
powder, each a dessertspoonful; mace, 1 teaspoonful; half as
much cayenne: baked 23 hours.

Obs.—A_ larger portion of suet or of fat will render these
cakes lighter, but will not otherwise improve them: they may
be made of veal or of venison, but one-third of mutton suet or
of fat bacon should be mixed with this last.

GERMAN STEW.

Cut into about three-inch squares, two pounds and a half of
the leaner part of the veiny piece of beef, or of any joint which
is likely to be tender, and set it on to stew, with a pint and
three quarters of cold broth, or water, and one large onion
sliced. When these begin to boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and
a third as much of pepper, and let them simmer gently for an
hour and a half. Have ready some young white cabbages,
parboiled ; press the water well from them, lay them in with
the beef, and let the whole stew for another hour. More
onions, and a seasoning of mixed spices, or a few bits of lean
bacon, or of ham, can be added to this stew when a higher
flavour is desired; but it is very good without. ;

Beef, 2) lbs.; water, or broth, 12 pint; onion, 1; salt, 1 tea-
spoonful ; third as much pepper: 1} hour. Parboiled cabbages,
3 or 4: 1 hour.

WELSH STEW.

Take the same proportions of beef, and of broth or water, as for
the German Stew. When they have simmered gently for an
hour, add the white part of from twenty to thirty leeks, or two
dozens of button onions, and five or six young mild turnips, cut
in slices, a small lump of white sugar, nearly half a teaspoonful
of white pepper, and more than twice as much salt. Stew the
whole softly from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half,
after the vegetables are added.

Beef and water as above: 1 hour. Leeks, 20 to 30; or

small onions, 24 ; young turnips, 6 ; small lump of sugar ; white

a a oe

CHAP. VIII. ] - BEEF, ae 177

epper, nearly } teaspoonful; salt, twice as much: 1} to 14
our.

A GOOD ENGLISH STEW.

On three pounds of tender rump of beef, freed from skin and
fat, and cut down into about two-inch squares, pour rather more
than a quart of cold broth or gravy. When it boils add salt if
required, and a little cayenne, and keep it just simmering for a
couple of hours; then put to it the grated rind of a large lemon,
or of two small ones, and half an hour after, stir to it a table-
spoonful of rice-flour, smoothly mixed with a wineglassful of
mushroom catsup, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and a tea-
spoonful of soy: in fifteen minutes it will be ready to serve.
A glass and a half of port, or of white wine, will greatly improve
this stew, which may likewise be flavoured with the store-sauce
of page 136, or with another, which we find excellent for the
purpose, made with half a pint of port wine, the same of mush-
room-catsup, a quarter-pint of walnut-pickle, a tablespoonful of
the best soy, and a dessertspoonful of cayenne-vinegar, all well
shaken together and poured into a bottle containing the thin.
rind of a lemon and two fine mellow anchovies, of moderate size.
A few delicately fried forcemeat-balls may be slipped into it
after it is dished.

Obs.—The limits of our work will not permit us to devote a
further space to this class of dishes, but an intelligent cook will
find it easy to vary them in numberless ways. Mushrooms,
celery, carrots, sweet herbs, parboiled new potatoes, green peas,
rice, and currie-powder may be advantageously used for that
purpose. Oxtails, just blanched and cut into joints, will be
found excellent substitutes for the beef: mutton and veal also
may be dressed in the same way. ‘The meat and vegetables can
be browned before broth or water is poured to them; but,
though perhaps more savoury, the stew will then be much less
delicate. Hach kind of vegetable should be allowed something
more than sufficient time to render it perfectly tender, but not
so much as would reduce it to pulp.

TO STEW SHIN OF BEEF.

Wash, and set it on to stew insufficient cold water to keep it just
covered until itis done. When it boils, take off the scum, and put
an ounce and a quarter of salt to the gallon of water. It is usual to
add a few cloves and some black pepper, slightly bruised and. tied
up loosely in a fold of muslin, two or more onions, a root of celery,
a bunch of savoury herbs, four or five carrots, and as many

178 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII.

turnips, either whole or sliced: if to be served with the meat,
the last two will require a little more than the ordinary time of
boiling, but otherwise they may be simmered with the meat
from the beginnmg. Give the beef from four to five hours’
gentle stewing; and serve it with part of its own liquor thick-
ened and flavoured, or quite plain. An excellent dish for a
family may be made by stewing the thick fleshy part of the
shin or leg, in stock made of the knuckle, with a few bits of
lean ham, or a slice of hung beef from which the smoked edges
have been carefully pared away, and some spice, salt, and vege-
tables: by frying these last before they are thrown into the soup-
pot the savour of the stew will be greatly heightened; and a
tureen of good soup may be made of its remains, after it has
been served at table.

Ox-cheek, after having been soaked for four or five hours,
and washed with great nicety, may be dressed like the shin; but
~ as it has little flavour, the gravy should be strained, and quite
cleared from fat, then put into a clean saucepan, and thickened
as soon as it boils, with the following mixture :—three dessert-
spoonsful of rice-flour, nearly a wineglassful of catsup, a tea-
spoonful of currie-powder, or a little powdered ginger and
cayenne. When these have stewed for ten minutes, dish the
head, pour the sauce over, and serve it.

Shin of beef, 4 to 5 hours. Ox-cheek, 2 to 3 hours.

FRENCH BEEF A LA MODE.
(A common Receipt.)

Take seven or eight pounds of a rump of beef (or of any
other tender joint), free from bone, and skewer it firmly into a
good shape. Put two ounces of butter into a thick saucepan or
stewpan, and when it boils stir to it a tablespoonful of flour; keep
these well shaken over a gentle fire until they are of a fine
amber colour; then lay in the beef, and brown it on both sides,
taking care that it shall not stick to the pan. Pour to it by
slow degrees, letting each portion boil before the next is added,
or the butter will float upon the surface and be difficult to clear
off afterwards, three quarters of a pint of hot water, or gravy;
add a bunch of savoury herbs, one large or two small carrots
cut in thick slices, two or three moderate-sized onions, two bay-
leaves, and sufficient pepper and salt to season the gravy. Let
the meat simmer gently from four to five hours, and turn it
when it is half done. When ready to serve, lift the beef into a
hot dish, lay the vegetables round, and pour the gravy over it,
ater having taken out the herbs and skimmed away the fat.

_ CHAP, VIII | BEEF, 179

In France, half or the whole of a calf’s foot is stewed with the

beef, which is there generally larded through with thick strips

of fat bacon. (For larding, see page 166.) Veal dressed in this

way is even better than beef. The stewpan used for either

should be as nearly of the size of the meat as possible. .
Beef, 7 to 8 lbs.: 4 to 5 hours.

STEWED SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

As a matter of convenience we have occasionally had this
joint stewed instead of roasted, and have found it excellent.
Cut out the inside or fillet as entire as possible, and reserve it
for a separate dish; then remove the bones with care, or let the
butcher do this for you; spread the meat flat on a table and
cover the inside with thin slices of striped bacon, after having
first strewed over it a mixed seasoning of a small teaspoonful of
salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, and a moderate quantity ot
pepper or cayenne. Roll and bind the meat firmly, lay it into
a stewpan or thick iron saucepan nearly of its size, and add the
bones and as much good beef broth as will nearly cover the
joint. Should this not be at hand, put a few slices of lean ham
or bacon under the beef, and lay round it three pounds of neck
or knuckle of veal, or of. stewing beef, divided into several
parts; then pour to it cold water instead of broth. In either
case, so soon as it has boiled a few minutes and been well
cleaned from scum, throw in a large faggot of savoury herbs,
three or four carrots, as many leeks, or a large onion, stuck
with a dozen cloves; and, an hour later, two blades of mace,
and half a teaspoonful of peppercorns. Stew the beef very
gently indeed from four to five hours, and longer, should the
joint be large: serve it with a good Espagnole, sauce piquante,
or brown caper sauce. Add what salt may be needed before
the vegetables are thrown in; and, after the meat is lifted out,
boil down to soup or gravy the liquor in which it has been
stewed. ‘To many tastes it would be an improvement to flour
and brown the outside of the beef in butter before the broth or
water is poured to it: it may also be stewed (but somewhat
longer) half-covered with rich gravy, and turned when partially
done. Minced eschalots may be strewed over the inside before
it is rolled, when their strong savour is relished, or veal force-
meat may supply their place.

TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.

This joint is more easily carved, and is of better appearance
when the bones are removed before it is dressed. oll and

os
+e

es s
bea

180 MODERN COOKERY. { CHAP~ VIII.

bind it firmly, cover it with strong cold beef broth or gravy,
and stew it very gently indeed from six hours to between seven
and eight; add to it, after the scum has been well cleared off,
one large or two moderate-sized onions stuck with thirty cloves, |
a head of celery, two carrots, two turnips, and a large faggot of
savoury herbs. When the beef is perfectly tender quite through,
which may be known by probing it with a sharp thin skewer,
remove the fillets of tape, dish it neatly, and serve it with a rich
Espagnole, and a garnish of forced tomatas, or with a highly
flavoured brown English gravy, and stewed carrots in the dish ;
for these last the mild preparation of garlic or eschalots, of page’
122, may be substituted with good effect; they should be well
drained, laid round the meat, and a little brown gravy poured
over the whole.

‘This is the most» simple and economical manner of stewing
the beef; but should a richer one be desired, half roast the
joint, and stew it afterwards in strong gravy, to which apint of
mushrooms, and a pint of sherry or Madeira, should be added
an hour before it is ready for table. Keep it hot while a por-
tion of the gravy is thickened with a well-made brown roux
(see Chapter IV., page 96), and seasoned with salt, cayenne,
and any other spice it may require. Garnish it with large balls:
of forcemeat, highly seasoned with minced eschalots, rolled in
egg and bread-crumbs, and fried a fine golden brown.

Plainly stewed from 6 to 7 or 8 hours. Or: half roasted,
then s‘ewed from 4 to 5 hours.

Obs.—Grated horse-radish, mixed with some well-thickened
brown gravy, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a little lemon-juice
or vinegar, is a good sauce fur stewed beef.

BEEF PALATES. (ENTREE.)

First rub them well with salt, to take off the slime; then
wash them thoroughly in several waters, and leave them to
soak for half an hour before they are dressed. Set them over
the fire in cold water, and boil them gently until the skin will
peel off, and the palates are tolerably tender. It is difficult to
state the exact time required for this, as some will be done
enough in two hours and a half, and others in not less than
from four to five hours. When thus prepared, the palates may
be cut into various forms, .and simmered until fit to serve, in
rich brown gravy, highly flavoured with ham, cayenne, wine,
and lemon-peel; or they will make an excellent currie. As
they are very insipid of themselves, they require a sauce of
some piquancy, in which, after they have been peeled and

CHAP. VIII. | BEEF. , 181

trimmed, they should be stewed from twenty to thirty minutes,
or until they are perfectly tender. The black parts of them
must be cut away, when the skin is taken off. An onion, stuck
with a few cloves, a carrot sliced, a teaspoonful of whole white
pepper, a slice of butter, and a teaspoonful of salt, aa be
boiled with the palates in the first instance; and they will be
found very good, if sent to table in the curried gravy of Chapter
XIV., or in the Soubise of Chapter IV., made thinner than the
receipts direct.

Boiled from 21 to 4 or 5 hours. Stewed from 20 to 30
minutes.

Obs.—A French cook of some celebrity, orders the palates to
be laid on the gridiron until the skin will peel or scrape off:
the plan seems a good one, but we have not tried it.

BEEF PALATES.

(Neapolitan Mode.)

Boil the palates until the skin can be easily removed, then
stew them very tender in good veal broth, lay them on a
drainer and let them cool; cut them across obliquely into strips
of about a quarter-inch in width, and finish them by either of
the receipts for dressing maccaroni, which will’ be found in
Chapters XIV. and XVIII.

STEWED OX-TAILS.

They should be sent from the butcher ready jointed. Soak
and wash them well, cut them into joints, or into lengths of
two or three joints, and cover them with cold broth or water.
As soon as they boil, remove the scum, and add a half-tea-
spoonful of salt, or as much more as may be needed, and a little
common pepper, or cayenne, an onion stuck with half a dozen
cloves, two or three small carrots, and a bunch or two of parsley.
When these have simmered for two hours and a quarter, try the
meat with a fork, and should it not be perfectly tender, let it
remain over the fire until it isso. Ox-tails sometimes require
nearly or quite three hours’ stewing: they may be served with
the vegetables, or with the gravy strained from them, and
thickened like the English stew, of page 177.

Ox-tails, 2; water or broth to cover them; salt, } teaspoonful,
or more; little pepper or cayenne ; onion, 1 ; cloves, 6 ; carrots,
2 or 3; parsley, 2 or 3 branches: 23 to 3 hours.

BROILED OX-TAIL. (ENTREE.)
(Very good.)
When the ox-tail is ready for the stewpan, throw it into

182 ; MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIII.

plenty of boiling water, slightly salted, and simmer it for fifteen
minutes, then take it up, and put it into fresh water to cool;
wipe it, and lay it round in a small stewpan without dividing it;
just cover it with good beef gravy, and stew it gently until very
tender; drain it a little, sprinkle over it a small quantity of salt
and cayenne; dip it into clarified butter, and then into some
fine bread-crumbs, with which it should be thickly covered ; lay
it on the gridiron, and when equally browned all over serve it
immediately. _ If more convenient, the ox-tail may be set into
the oven, or before the fire, until properly coloured: it may
likewise be sent to table without broiling, dished upon stewed
cabbage, or in its own gravy thickened, and with tomata sauce,
in a tureen.

TO SALT AND PICKLE BEEF, IN VARIOUS WAYS.

Let the meat hang a couple of days in mild weather, and
four or five in winter, before it is salted or pickled. During the
heat of summer it is better to immerse it entirely in brine,
that it may be secured alike from the flies, and from the danger
of becoming putrid. Trim it, and take out the kernels from the
fat; then rub a little fine dry salt over it, and leave it until the
following day ; drain it well from the blood, which will be found
to have flowed from it, and it will be ready for any of the
following modes of curing, which are all excellent of their kind,
and have been well proved.

In very cold weather, the salt may be applied quite warm to
the meat: it should always be perfectly dry, and reduced to
powder. |

Saltpetre hardens and renders meat indigestible ; sugar, on
the contrary, mellows and improves it much; and it is more
tender when cured with bay salt than when common salt is used
for it.

TO SALT AND BOIL A ROUND OF BEEF.

Mix an ounce of saltpetre, finely powdered, with halfa pound
of very coarse sugar, and rub the beef thoroughly with them ;
in two days add three quarters of a pound of common salt, well
dried and beaten; turn and rub the meat well in every part
with the pickle for three weeks, when it will be fit to dress,

Just wash off the salt, and skewer the beef as round and as even
as possible ; bind it tightly with broad tape, cover it with cold
water, and let it simmer gently for at least five hours. Carrots,
mashed turnips, or cabbages, are usually served with boiled
beef; and horse-radish stewed for ten minutes in equal parts of

_ CHAP. VIII. ] BEEF. 183

vinegar and water, then pressed well from them, and mixed
with some rich melted butter, is a good sauce for it.

Beef, 20 lbs.; coarse sugar, 3 lb.; saltpetre, 1 0z.: 2 days.
Salt, 3 lb.: 21 days. Boil 5 hours, or more.

Obs.— Beef cured by this receipt, if properly boiled, is tender,
of good colour and flavour, and not over salt. The rump, edge-
bone, and brisket may be salted, or pickled in the same way as
the round.

HAMBURGH PICKLE FOR BEEF, HAMS, AND TONGUE.

Boil together, for twenty minutes, two gallons of water, three
pounds of bay salt, two pounds of coarse sugar, two ounces of
saltpetre, and two of black pepper, bruised, and tied in a fold of
muslin ; clear off the scum thoroughly, as it rises, pour the
pickle into a deep earthen-pan, and when it is quite cold lay in
the meat, of which every part must be perfectly covered with it.
A moderate-sized round of beef will be ready for table in a fort-
night; it should be turned occasionally m the brine. Five
pounds of common salt may be substituted for the quantity of
bay salt given above; but the meat will not be so finely
flavoured.

Water, 2 gallons; bay-salt, 3 Ibs.; saltpetre, 2 ozs.; black
pepper, 2 ozs.; sugar, 2 lbs. : 20 minutes.

ANOTHER PICKLE FOR TONGUES, BEEF, AND HAMS.

To three gallons of spring water add .six pounds of common
salt, two pounds of bay-salt, two pounds of common loaf sugar,
and two ounces of saltpetre. Boil these over a gentle fire, and
be careful to take off all the scum as it rises: when quite cold
it will be fit for use. Rub the meat to be cured, with fine salt,
and let it drain for a day or two, in order to free it from the
blood; then immerse it in the brine, taking care that every part
of it shall be covered. Young pork should not remain more
than from three to five days in the pickle; but hams for drying
may be left in it for a fortnight at least: tongues will be ready
in rather less time. Beef may remain from one week to two,
according to its size, and the degree of saltness desired for it.
A little experience will soon teach the exact time required for
the different kinds of meat. When the pickle has been in use
for about three months, boil it up again gently, and take the
scum carefully off. Add to it three pounds of common salt,
four ounces of sugar, and one of saltpetre: it will remain good
for a year or more.

184. MODERN COOKERY. [cuaP. VIII.

Water, 3 gallons; common salt, 6 Ibs. ; bay salt, 2 Ibs.; loaf
sugar, 2 Ibs. ; saltpetre, 2 ozs.: boil 20 to 30 minutes.

DUTCH, OR HUNG BEEF.

For fourteen pounds weight of the round, the rump, or the
thick flank of beef, mix two ounces of saltpetre with the same.
quantity of coarse sugar ; rub the meat with them in every part,
and let it remain for two days, then add one pound of bay salt,
four ounces of common salt, and one ounce of ground black
pepper. Rub these ingredients thoroughly into the beef, and in
four days pour over it a pound of treacle ; rub and turn it daily
for a fortnight ; drain, and send it to be smoked. When wanted
for table, lay it into plenty of cold water, boil it very slowly, and
press it under a heavy weight while hot. <A slice of this beef,
from which the edges have been carefully trimmed, will serve
to flavour soups or gravies as well as ham.

Beef, 14 Ibs. ; saltpetre and coarse sugar, each 2 ozs.: 2 days.
. Bay salt, 1 lb.; common salt, 4 ozs.; pepper, 1 0z.: 4 duys.

Treacle, 1 lb.: 14 days. ‘

Obs.—Three quarters of a pound of coarse sugar may be
rubbed into the meat at first, and the treacle may be altogether
omitted ; cloves and mace, too, may be added in the same pro-
portion as for spiced beef.

COLLARED BEEF.

Only the thinnest part of the flank, or the ribs, which are not
so generally used for it, will serve conveniently for collaring.
The first of these should be hung in a damp place for a day or
two, to soften the outer skin; then rubbed with coarse sugar,
and left for a couple of days; when, for eight pounds of the
meat, one ounce of saltpetre and half a pound of salt should be
added. In ten days it will be fit to dress. The bones and
tough inner skin must be removed, and the beef sprinkled
thickly on the under side with parsley and other savoury herbs
shred small, before it is rolled, which should be done very
tightly: it must then be secured with a cloth, and bound as
closely as possible with broad tape. It will require nearly or
quite five hours of gentle boiling, and should be placed while
hot under a weight, or in a press, without having the tape and
cloth removed.

Beef, 8 Ibs.; sugar, 3 ozs.; salt, 8 ozs.: 10 days. Boil 5
hours. i

CHAP. VIII. | BEEF. 185

COLLARED BEEF.
(Another way.)

Mix half an ounce of saltpetre with the same quantity of
pepper, four ounces of bay salt, and four of common salt; with
these rub weil from six to seven pounds of the thin flank, and
in four days add seven ounces of treacle ; turn the beef daily in
the pickle for a week or more; dip it into water, bone it and
skin the inside, roll and bind it up very tightly, lay it into cold
water, and boil it for three hours and a half. We have found
beef dressed by this receipt extremely good : herbs can, of course,
be added to it as usual. Spices and juniper berries would to
many tastes improve it, but we give the receipt simply as we
have been accustomed to have it used.

Thin flank, 6 to 7 lbs.; bay-salt, and common salt, each 4
ozs.; saltpetre, 3 0z.; pepper, 4 0z.: 4 days. ‘Treacle, 7 ozs.: 8
to 10 days. Boiled 3} hours.

A COMMON RECEIPT FOR SALTING BEEF.

One ounce of saltpetre, and a pound of common salt, will be
sufficient for sixteen pounds of beef. Both should be well dried,
and finely powdered ; the saltpetre rubbed first equally over the
meat, and the salt next applied in every part. It should be
rubbed thoroughly with the pickle and turned daily, from a
week to ten days. An ounce or two of sugar mixed with the
saltpetre will render the beef more tender and palatable.

Beef, 16 lbs.; saltpetre, 1 0z.; salt, 1 lb.: 7 to 10 days.

SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.
(Very highly flavoured.)

Rub the beef well in every part with half a pound of coarse °
brown sugar, and let it remain two days; then reduce to powder,
and mix thoroughly before they are applied to the meat, two
ounces of saltpetre, three quarters of a pound of common salt, a
quarter-pound of black pepper, three ounces of allspice, and
four of bruised juniper-berries. Rub these ingredients strongly
and equally over the joint, and do so daily for three weeks,
turning it at the same time. Just wash off the spice, and put
the beef into a tin, or covered earthen pan as nearly of its size
as possible, with a cup of water or gravy; cover the top thickly
with chopped beef-suet, and lay a coarse thick crust over the pan;
place the cover on it, and bake the meat from five to six hours
in a well-heated oven, which should not, however, be sufficiently

186 s MODERN COOKERY. [cHapP. VIII.

fierce to harden the outside of the joint, which, if properly
managed, will be exceedingly tender. Let it cool in the pan;
and clear off the suet before it is dished. It is to be served cold,
and will remain good for a fortnight.

Beef, 20 to 25 lbs. weight; sugar, 3 ozs.: 2 days. Saltpetre,
2 ozs.; common salt, 3 lb.; black pepper, 4 ozs.; allspice, 3 0zs.;
juniper-berries, 4 ozs.: 21 days. Baked 5 to 6 hours.

Obs. — We have not ourselves tested this receipt, but the
meat cured by it has received such high commendations from
several of our friends who have partaken of it frequently, that
we think we may safely insert it without. The proportion of
allspice appears to us more than would be agreeable to many
tastes, and we would rather recommend that part of it should be
amitted, and that a portion of nutmeg, mace, and cloves should
be substituted for it; as we have found these spices to answer
well in the following receipt.

SPICED BEEF.

(Good and wholesome.)

For twelve pounds of the round, rump, or thick flank of
beef, take a large teaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace, and of
ground black pepper, twice as much of cloves, one small nut-
meg, and a quarter teaspoonful of cayenne, all in the finest
powder. Mix them well with seven ounces of brown sugar, rub
the beef with them and let it lie three days; add to it then half
a pound of fine salt, and rub and turn it once in twenty-four
hours for twelve days. Just wash, but do not soak it; skewer,
or bind it into good form, put it into a stewpan or saucepan
nearly of its size, pour to it a pint and a half of good beef
broth, and when it begins to boil, take off the scum, and throw
in one small onion, a moderate-sized faggot of thyme and
parsley, and two large, or four small carrots. _ Let it simmer
quite softly for four hours and a half, and if not wanted to
serve hot, leave it in its own liquor until it is nearly cold. This
is an excellent and far more wholesome dish than the hard,
pright-coloured beef which is cured with large quantities of salt
and saltpetre: two or three ounces of juniper-berries may be
added to it with the spice, to heighten its flavour.

Beef, 12 lbs.; sugar, 7 ozs.; mace and black pepper, each, 1
large teaspoonful ; cloves, in powder, 1 large dessertspoonful ;
nutmeg, 1; cayenne, 3 teaspoonful: 3 days. Fine salt, 3 lb.:
12 days. Beef broth (or bouillon), 14 pint; onion, 1 small;
bunch of herbs; carrots, 2 large, or 4 small: stewed 43 hours.

CHAP. Vill. | BEEF. 187

Obs.—We give this receipt exactly as we have often had it
used, but celery and turnips might be added to the gravy ; and
when the appearance of the meat is much considered, three-
quarters of an ounce of saltpetre may be mixed with the spices ;
the beef may also be plainly boiled in water only, with a few
vegetables, or baked in a deep pan with a little gravy. No
meat must ever be left to cool in the stewpan or saucepan in
which it is cooked; it must be lifted into a pan of its own depth,
and the liquor poured upon it.

A MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF.

“ Select a fine rib of beef, and have it cut small or large in
width, according to your taste; it may thus be made to weigh
from five to twelve pounds, or more, Take out the bone, and
wrap the meat round like a fillet of veal, securing it with two
or three wooden skewers ; place it in a strong pickle for four or
five days, and then cook it, taking care that it does not boil, but
only simmers from forty minutes, or more, according to its size.
It is best to put it on in hot water, as it will not draw the gravy
so much as cold. Many persons adjust a rib of beef in this
way for roasting : let them try it salted, and they need not envy
the possessor of the finest round of beef.” We give the receipt
to our readers in its original form, and we can assure them, from
our own experience, that it is a good one; but we would recom-
mend that, in dressing the meat, quite the usual time for each
pound of it should be allowed. When boned and rolled at the
butcher’s, the skewers should be removed when it is first
brought in; it should be well wiped with a dry cloth, or washed
with a little fresh brine, and a small quantity of salt and salt-
petre should be rubbed over the inside; it may then be firmly
bound with tape, and will be quite ready to boil when taken
from the pickle. ‘The sirloin, after the inside fillet is removed,
may be cured and dressed in the same way, and will be found
super-excellent, if the beef be well fatted and properly kept.
The Hamburg pickle (see page 183,) is perhaps the best for
these joints. Part of the rump, taken clear of bone, answers
admirably when prepared by this receipt.

STUFATO.

(A Neapolitan Receipt.)
“Take about six pounds of the silver side of the round, and
- make several deep incisions in the inside, nearly through to the
skin ; stuff these with all kinds of savoury herbs, a good slice
of lean ham, and half a small clove of garlic, all finely minced,

188 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIII.

and well mingled together ; then bind and tie the meat oe
round, so that the stuffing may not escape. Put four pounds of
butter into a stewpan sufficiently large to contain something
more than that quantity, and the beef in addition; so soon as
it boils lay in the meat, let it just simmer for five or six hours,
and turn it every half hour ‘at least, that it may be equally
done. Boil for twenty-five minutes three pounds of pipe mac-
caroni, drain it perfectly dry, and mix it with the gravy of the
beef, without the butter, half a pint of very pure salad oil, and
a pot of paste tomatas; mix these to amalgamation, without
breaking the maccaroni; before serving up, sprinkle Parmesan
cheese thickly on the maccaroni.”

We insert this receipt exactly as it was given to us bya
friend, at whose table the dish was served with great success to
some Italian diplomatists. From our own slight experience of
it, we should suppose that the excellence of the beef is quite a
secondary consideration, as all its juices are drawn out by the
mode of cooking, and appropriated to the maccaroni, of which
we must observe that three pounds would make too gigantic a
dish to enter well, on ordinary occasions, into an English service.

We have somewhere seen directions for making the stufato
with the upper part of the sirloin, thickly larded with large,
well-seasoned lardoons of bacon, and then stewed in equal parts
of rich gravy, and of red or of white wine.

BEEF ROLL, OR, CANELLON DE BUF. (ENTREE.)

Chop and mix thoroughly two pounds of lean and very
tender beef, with one pound of slightly striped bacon; season
them with a large teaspoonful of pepper, a little salt, a small
nutmeg, or two thirds as much of mace, the grated rind of a
lemon, or a teaspoonful of thyme and parsley finely minced.
Form the whole into a thick rouleau, wrap a buttered paper
round it, enclose it in a paste made of flour and water, and send
it to a moderate oven for a couple of hours. Remove the paper
and the crust, and serve the meat with a little brown gravy.
Lamb and veal are excellent dressed in this way, particularly
when mixed with plenty of mushrooms. Brown cucumber
sauce should be served with the lamb; and currie, or oyster
sauce, when there are no mushrooms, with the veal. <A flavour-
ing of onion or of eschalot, where it is liked, can be added at
pleasure to the beef: suet, or the fat of the meat, may be sub-
stituted for the bacon.

Beef, 2 lbs.; bacon, 1 1b.; pepper, } 0z.; little salt; small

Bp)
oh

CHAP. VIII. | BEEF. 189

nutmeg; rind of 1 lemon, or fine herbs, 1 tablespoonful : baked
2 hours.

MINCED COLLOPS AU NATUREL.

Mince finely a pound of very tender undressed beef, free
from fat or skin ; season it with a moderate quantity of pepper
and salt, set it over a gentle fire, and keep it stirred with a fork
until it is quite hot, that it may not gather into lumps. Simmer
it very slowly in its own gravy from ten to twelve minutes, and
then, should it be too dry, add a little boiling water, broth, or
gravy ; stew it two minutes longer, and serve it directly.

These collops are particularly suited to persons in delicate
health, or of weak digestion; and when an extra dish is
required at a short notice, from the expedition with which they
may be dressed, they are a convenient resource.

10 to 12 minutes.

SAVOURY MINCED COLLOPS.

Make a little brown thickening (see page 96) with about an
ounce and a half of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour ;
when it begins to be coloured, shake lightly into it a large
teaspoonful of finely-shred parsley or mixed savoury herbs,
two thirds as much of salt, and half the quantity of pepper.
Keep these stirred over a gentle fire until the thickening is of a
deep yellow brown; then add a pound of rump-steak, finely
minced, and keep it well separated with a fork until it is quite
hot; next pour to it gradually half a cupful of boiling water,
and stew the collops very gently for ten minutes. Before they
are served, stir to them a little catsup, Chili vinegar, or lemon-
juice: a small quantity of minced onion, eschalot, or a particle
of garlic, may be added at first to the thickening when the
flavour is not objected to.

A RICHER VARIETY OF MINCED COLLOPS.

Omit the minced herbs from the thickening, and season it
with cayenne and a small quarter-teaspoonful of pounded mace.
Substitute beef gravy for the boiling water, and when the collops
are nearly done, fill a wineglass with one fourth of mushroom
catsup, and three of port wire, and stir these to the meat. Serve
the collops very hot, and garnish them with alternate forcemeat
balls (see No. 1, page 143,) and fried sippets. If flavoured with
a little gravy made from the bones of a roast hare, and served
with currant jelly, these collops will scarcely be distinguished
from game.

9G: MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII.

SCOTCH MINCED COLLOPS.

“Chop the beef small, season it with salt and pepper, put it,
in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clari-
fied butter. When wanted for use put the clarified butter into
a frying-pan, and slice some onions into the pan and fry them.
Add a little water to them, and then put in the minced meat.

Stew it well, and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve.”

BEEF TONGUES.

These may be cured by any of the receipts which we have
already given for pickling beef, or for those which will be found
further on for hams and bacon. Some persons prefer them
cured with salt and saltpetre only, and dried naturally in a cool
and airy room. For such of our readers as like them highly
and richly flavoured we give our own method of having them
prepared, which is this :—“ Rub over the tongue a handful of
fine salt, and let it drain until the following day; then, should
it weigh from seven to eight pounds, mix thoroughly an ounce
of saltpetre, two ounces of the coarsest sugar, and half an ounce
of black pepper; when the tongue has been well rubbed with
these, add three ounces of bruised juniper-berries ; and when ‘it
has laid two days, eight ounces of bay salt, dried and pounded ;
at the end of three days more, pour on it half a pound of treacle,
and let it remain in the pickle a fortnight after this ; then hang
it to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send it to be smoked
over a wood fire for two or three weeks. Should the peculiar
flavour of the juniper-berries prevail too much, or be disap-
proved, they may be in part, or altogether, omitted; and six
ounces of sugar may be rubbed into the tongue in the first in-
stance when it is liked better than treacle.

Tongue, 7 to 8 lbs.; saltpetre, 1 oz.; black pepper,- 3 0z.;
sugar, 2 ozs.; juniper-berries, 3 ozs.: 2 days. Bay salt,-8 ozs.:
3 days. ‘Treacle, 3 lb.: 14 days.

Obs.—Before the tongue is salted, the gullet, which has an
unsightly appearance, should be trimmed away : it is indeed
usual to take the root off entirely, but some families prefer it
left on for the sake of the fat.

BEEF TONGUES.
(A Suffolk Receipt.)
For each very large tongue, mix with half a pound of salt two
ounces of saltpetre and three quarters of a pound of the coarsest
sugar ; rub the tongues daily, and turn them in the pickle for

CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. ' 191

five weeks, when they will be fit to be dressed, or to be
smoked.

1 large tongue; salt, 4 lb.; sugar, 2 lb.; saltpetre, 2 ozs.: 5
weeks. :

TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES.

When taken fresh from the pickle they require no soaking,
unless they should have remained in it much beyond the usual
time, or have been cured with a more than common proportion
of salt; but when they have been smoked and hung for some
time, they should be laid for two or three hours in cold, and as

-much longer in tepid water, befure they are dressed: if extremely

dry, ten or twelve hours must be allowed to soften them, and
they should always be brought very slowly to boil. Two or
three carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs, added after
the scum is cleared off, will improve them. They should be
simmered until they are extremely tender, when the skin will
peel from them easily. <A highly dried tongue will usually
require from three and a half to four hours’ boiling; an un-
smoked one about an hour less; and for one which has not been
salted at all a shorter time will suffice.

BORDYKE RECEIPT FOR STEWING A TONGUE.

After the tongue has been soaked, trimmed, and washed with
extreme nicety, lay it into a vessel of fitting size, and place
round it three or four pounds of the neck, or of any other Iean
cuttings of beef, with some bones of undressed veal, and pour in
sufficient cold water to keep it covered until it is done; or,
instead of this, use strong tinseasoned beef broth made with the
shin, and any odd bits or bones of veal which may be at hand.
Let the tongue be brought to boil very gradually, that it may
be plump and tender. Remove the scum when it first rises, and
when it is quite cleared off add a large faggot of parsley, thyme,
and winter savoury, three carrots, a small onion, and one mild
turnip. After three hours and a half of gentle simmering,
probe the tongue, and if sufficiently done peel off the skin and
serve it quickly. If not wanted hot for table, lay it on a very
clean board or trencher, and fasten it down to it by passing a
carving fork through the root, and a smaller one through the
tip, drawing the tongue straight with the latter before it is fixed
in the board ; let it remain thus until quite cold. It is much
the fashion at present to glaze hams and tongues, but this should
never be attempted by a cook not well acquainted with the
manner of doing it, and the proper flavour and appearance of

192 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII.

the glaze. or directions to make it, see page 93. Where
expense is not regarded, three or four pounds of veal may be
added to the beef in this receipt, or the tongue may be stewed
in a prepared gravy made with equal parts of beef and veal, and
vegetables as above, but without salt: this may afterwards be
converted into excellent soup. A fresh or an unsmoked tongue
may be dressed in this way, but will require less time: for the
former, salt must be added to the gravy.

‘TO ROAST A BEEF HEART.

Wash and soak the heart very thoroughly, cut away the
lobes, fill the cavities with a veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 148),
secure it well with a needle and twine, or very coarse thread,
and roast it at a good fire for an hour and a half, keeping it
basted plentifully with butter. Pour melted butter over it,
after it is dished, and send it to table as hot as possible. Many
persons boil the heart for three quarters of an hour before it is
put to the fire, and this is said to render it more delicate eating;
the time of roasting must of course be proportionately diminished.

Good brown gravy may be substituted for the melted butter,

and currant jelly also may be served with it.
13 hour, or more.

BEEF KIDNEY.

Slice the kidney rather thin, after having stripped off the
skin, and removed the fat; season it with pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg, and sprinkle over it plenty of minced parsley, or
equal parts of parsley and eschalots chopped very small. Fry
the slices over a brisk fire, and when nicely browned on both
sides, stir amongst them a teaspoonful of flour, and pour in by
degrees a cup of gravy and a glass of white wine; bring the
sauce to the point of boiling, add a morsel of fresh butter and a
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and pour the whole into a hot
' dish garnished with fried bread. This is a French receipt, and
a very excellent one.

BEEF KIDNEY.
(A plainer way.)
Trim, and cut the kidney into slices; season them with salt

and pepper, and dredge them well with flour; fry them on both

sides, and when they are done through, lift them out, empty the
pan, and make a gravy for them with a small slice of butter, a
dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and salt, and a cup of boiling
water; shake these round and give them a minute’s simmering:

CHAP, VIII. | BEEF, 198
add a little mushroom catsup, lemon-juice, eschalot vinegar, or
any store sauce that will give a good flavour. Minced herbs are
to many tastes an improvement to this dish, to which a small
quantity of onion shred fine can be added when it is liked.

6 to 9 minutes.

AN EXCELLENT HASH OF COLD BEEF.

Put a slice of butter into a thick saucepan, and when it boils
throw in a dessertspoonful of minced herbs, and an onion (or
two or three eschalots) shred small: shake them over the fire
until lightly browned, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, a
little cayenne, some mace or nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of
salt. When the whole is well coloured, pour to it three quar-
ters of a pint or more of broth or gravy, according to the
quantity of meat to be served in it. Let this boil gently for
fifteen minutes ; then strain it; add half a wineglassful of mush-
room or of compound catsup; lay in the meat, and keep it by
the side of the fire until it is heated through and is on the point
of simmering, but be sure not to let it boil. Put some fried or
toasted sippets into a very hot dish, and serve the hash directly.

A COMMON HASH OF COLD BEEF OR MUTTON.

Take the meat from the bones, slice it small, trim off the
brown edges, and stew down the trimmings with the bones well
broken, an onion, a bunch of thyme and parsley, a carrot cut
into thick slices, a few peppercorns, four cloves, some salt, and
a pint and a half of water. When this is reduced to little more
than three. quarters of a pint, strain it, clear it from the fat,
thicken it with a large dessertspoonful of rice flour, or rather
less of arrow-root ; add salt and pepper if needed, boil the whole
for a few minutes, then lay in the meat and heat it well.
Boiled potatoes are sometimes sliced hot into a very common
hash.

Obs.—The cook should be reminded that if the meat ina
hash or mince be allowed to boil, it will immediately become
hard, and can then only be rendered eatable by very long
stewmg, which is by no means desirable for meat which is
already sufficiently done.

BRESLAW OF BEEF.
(Good.)
Trim the brown edges from half a pound of underdressed
roast beef, shred it small, and mix it with four ounces of fine
bread-crumbs, a teaspoonful of minced parsley, and two-thirds
Oo

194 MODERN COOKERY. [oHAP. VIII.’

as much of thyme, two ounces of butter broken small, half a
cupful of gravy or cream, a high seasoning of pepper and ca-
yenne, and mace, or nutmeg, a small teaspoonful of salt, and
three large eggs, well beaten. Melt a little butter in a pie’
dish, pour in the beef, and bake it half an hour; turn it out,
and send it to table with brown gravy in a tureen. When
cream or gravy is not at hand, an additional egg or two, and
rather more butter, must be used. We think that grated
lemon-rind improves the breslaw. A portion of fat from the
joint can be added where it is liked. The mixture is some-
times baked in buttered cups.

Beef, 3 1b.; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; gravy or
cream, 4 cupful; parsley, 1 teaspoonful ; thyme, two thirds of
teaspoonful ; eggs, 3, or 4, if small; salt, 1 teaspoonful; pepper
and nutmeg, 4 teaspoonful each: bake 3 hour.

NORMAN HASH.

Peel and fry two dozens of button onions in butter until they
are lightly browned, then stir to them a tablespoonful of flour,
and when the whole is of a deep amber shade, pour in a glass
and a half of red wine, and a large cup of boiling broth or
water; add a seasoning of salt and common pepper, or cayenne,
and a little lemon-pickle, catsup, or lemon-juice, and boil the
- whole until the onions are quite tender; cut and trim into
small handsome slices the remains of either a roast or boiled
joint of beef, and arrange them in a clean saucepan; pour the
gravy and onions on them, and let them stand for awhile to
imbibe the flavour of the sauce; then place the hash near the
fire, and when it is thoroughly hot serve it immediately, with-
out allowing it to boil.

FRENCH RECEIPT FOR HASHED BOUILLI.

Shake over a slow fire a bit of butter the size of an egg, and
a tablespoonful of flour ; when they have simmered for a minute,
stir to them a little, finely-chopped onion, and a dessertspoon-
ful of minced parsley ; so soon as the whole is equally browned,
add sufficient pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season the hash
properly, and from half to three quarters of a pint of boiling
water or of bouillon. Put in the beef cut into small but thick
’ slices; let it stand by the fire and heat gradually; and when
near the point of boiling thicken the sauce with the yolks of
three eggs, mixed with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice. For
change, omit the eggs, and substitute a tablespoonful of catsup,
and another of pickied gherkins, minced or sliced.

CHAP, VIII. | BEEF. 06

BAKED MINCED BEEF.

Mince tolerably fine, with a moderate proportion of its own
fat, as much of the inside of a cold roast joint as will suffice for
a dish: that which is least done is best for the purpose. Sea-
son it rather highly with cayenne and mace, or nutmeg, and
moderately with salt; add, when they are liked, one or two
eschalots, minced small, with a few chopped mushrooms, either
fresh or pickled, or two tablespoonsful of mushroom cat-
sup. Moisten the whole, mixing it well, with a cupful of good
gravy, and put it into a deep dish. Place on the top an inch-
thick layer of bread-crumbs; moisten these plentifully with
clarified butter, passed through a small strainer over them, and
send the mince to a slow oven for twenty minutes, or brown it
in a Dutch oven.

SAUNDERS.

Spread on the dish in which the saunders are to be served, a
layer of smoothly mashed potatoes, which have been seasoned
with salt and mixed with about an ounce of butter to the pound.
On these spread equally and thickly some underdressed beef or
mutton, minced, and mixed with a little of the gravy that has
run from the joint, or with a féw spoonsful of any other; some
salt, pepper, and a small quantity of nutmeg. Place evenly
over this another layer of potatoes, and send the dish to the
oven for half an hour. A very superior kind of saunders is
made by substituting fresh meat for roasted; but this requires
to be baked an hour or something more. Sausage-meat, highly
seasoned, may be served in this way, instead of beef or mutton.

TO BOIL MARROW BONES.

Let the large ends of the bones be sawed by the butcher, so
that when they are dished they may stand upright; and if it
can be done conveniently, let them. be placed in the same man-~
ner in the vessel in which they are boiled. Put a bit of paste,
made with flour and water, over the ends where the marrow is
visible, and tie a cloth tightly over them; take the paste off
before the bones are sent to table, and serve them, placed up-
right in a napkin, with slices of dry toasted bread, apart. When
not wanted for immediate use, they may be partially boiled, and
_ set into a cool place, where they will remain good for many
days.

Large marrow bones, 2 hours; moderate sized, 1} hour. To

196 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. Ix.

keep: boil them 1} hour, and from } to 2 hour more when
wanted for table.

BAKED MARROW BONES.

When the bones have been sawed to the length of a deep pie
dish, wash and wipe them dry, lay them into it, and cover them
entirely with a good batter. Send them to a moderate oven
for an hour or more, and serve them in the batter.

CLARIFIED MARROW FOR KEEPING.

Take the marrow from the bones while it is as fresh as pos-
sible ; cut it small, put it into a very clean jar, and melt it with
a gentle heat, either in a pan of water placed over the fire, or at
the mouth of a cool oven; strain it through a muslin, let it
settle for a minute or two, and pour it, clear of sediment, into
small jars. Tie skins, or double folds of thick paper, over them
_as soon as the marrow is cold, and store it in acool place. It
will remain good for months.

CHAPTER IX.
VEAL.

No. No.

1, Loin, Best End. 6. Neck, Best End.
2, Loin, Chump End, 7. Neck, Scrag End.
3. Fillet. 8. Blade Bone.

4, Hind Knuckle. : 9. Breast, Best End.

5. Fore Knuckle. 10. Breast, Brisket End. —

CHAP. Ix.] VEAL. 197

TO CHOOSE VEAL.

— Vuax should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not over-

grown: for when very large it is apt to be coarse and tough.
It is more difficult to keep than any other meat except pork, and
should never be allowed to acquire the slightest taint before it
is dressed, as any approach to putridity renders it equally un-
wholesome and offensive to the taste. The fillet, the loin, the
shoulder, and the best end of the neck, are the parts generally
selected for roasting ; the breast and knuckle are more usually
stewed or boiled. ‘The udder, or firm white fat of the fillet, is
much used by French cooks instead of butter, especially in the
composition of their forcemeats: for these, it is first well boiled,
then left until quite cold, and afterwards thoroughly pounded
before it is mixed with the other ingredients. ‘The head and
feet of the calf are valuable articles of food, both for the nu-
triment which the gelatinous parts of them afford, and for
the great variety of modes in which they may be dressed.
The kidneys, with the rich fat that surrounds them, and the
sweetbreads especially, are well known delicacies; the liver
and the heart also are very good eating; and no meat is so
generally useful for rich soups and gravies as veal.

TO TAKE THE HAIR FROM A CALF’S HEAD WITH THE
SKIN ON.

It is better to do this before the head is divided; but if only
the half of one with the skin on can be procured, it must be
managed in the same way. Put it into plenty of water which
is on the point of simmering, but which does not positively boil,
and let it remain in until it does so, and for five or six minutes
afterwards, but at the first full bubble draw it from the fire and
let it merely scald; then lift it out, and with a knife that is not
sharp scrape off the hair as closely and as quickly as possible.
The butchers have an instrument on purpose for the operation ;
but we have had the head look quite as well when done in the
manner we have just described, as when it has been sent in ready
prepared by them. After the hair is off, the head should be
well washed, and if it cannot be cooked the same day it must be
wiped extremely dry before it is hung up; and when it has not
been divided, it should be left whole until the time approaches
for dressing it. ‘The brain must then be taken out, and both
that and the head well soaked and washed with the greatest
nicety. When the half head only is scalded, the brain should
first be removed. Calves’ feet are freed from the hair easily in

198 MODERN COOKERY. [[CHAP. IX.

the same manner ; indeed, we find it a better mode of having it
cleared from them than the one we have given in Chapter XX.,
though that is practised by many good butchers.

BOILED CALF’S HEAD.

When the head is dressed with the skin on, which many per-
sons prefer, the ear must be cut off quite close to it; it will re-
quire three quarters of an hour or upwards of additional boiling,
and should be served covered with fried crumbs: the more usual
mode, however, is to boil it without the skin. In either case,
first remove the brain, wash the head delicately clean, and soak
it for a quarter of an hour ; cover it plentifully with cold water,
remove the scum as it rises with great care, throw in a little salt,
and boil the head gently until it is perfectly tender. In the
mean time, wash and soak the brains first in cold and then in
warm water, remove the skin or film, boil them in a small sauce-
pan from fourteen ,to sixteen minutes, according to their size,
and when they are done, chop and mix them with eight or ten
sage leaves boiled tender, and finely minced, or, if preferred,
with parsley boiled instead ; warm them in a spoonful or two of
melted butter, or white sauce; skin the tongue, trim off the
root, and serve it in a small dish with the brains laid round it.
Send the head to table very hot with parsley and butter poured
over it, and some more in a tureen. A cheek of bacon, or very
delicate pickled pork, and greens, are the usual accompaniments
to boiled calf’s head.

We have given here the common English mode of serving
this dish, by some epicures considered the best, and by others,
as exceedingly insipid. On the Continent, tomata sauce takes
place of the parsley and butter; and rich oyster or Dutch
sauce, are varieties often substituted for it in this country.

With the skin on, from 2} to 22 hours; without the skin,
from 11 to 13 hour.*

-CALF’S HEAD, THE WARDER’S WAY.
(An excellent Receipt.)

Boil the half-head until tolerably tender; let it cool, and bone
it entirely ; replace the brain, lay the head into a stewpan, and
simmer it gently for an hour in rich gravy. From five and
twenty to thirty minutes before it is dished, add, if procurable,
half a pint of mushroom-buttons. Thicken the gravy, if need-
ful with rice-flour, or with flour and butter, and serve plenty
of forcemeat-balls round the head. For dishes of this kind, a
little sweet-basil wine, or a few sprigs of the herb itself, impart

CHAP. IX.] VELA Lies -1.7- 199

a very agreeable flavour. When neither these nor mushrooms
are within reach, the very thin rind of a small but fresh lemon
may be boiled in the gravy, and the strained juice added at the
instant of serving.

Boiled from 1 to 2 hours; stewed 1 hour. |
Obs.—The skin, with the ear, may be left on the head for this
receipt, and the latter slit into narrow strips from the tip to
within an inch and a half of the base; which will give it a
feathery and ornamental appearance: the ‘head may then be

glazed or not at pleasure.

PREPARED CALF’S HEAD.
(The Cook’s Receipt.)

Take away the brains and tongue from the half of a calf’s
head, and then remove the bones, being careful in doing so to
keep the knife as close to them as possible, and to avoid piercing
the outer skin: in this consists the whole art of boning, in which
an attentive cook may easily render herself expert. Next wash
the head and dry it in a clean cloth ; sprinkle over the inside a
little pounded mace and cayenne, or white pepper; roll it up
tightly, and bind it round with tape or twine. Lay into a
small stewpot three or four pounds of neck of veal or of beef,
twice or thrice divided, and place the head upon it with the
bones well broken; pour in half a gallon of cold water, or as
much as will suffice to keep the head covered until it is done,
and simmer it very gently from an hour and a quarter to an
hour and three quarters. When it is extremely tender, lift it
out, and if wanted for table, remove the binding, and serve it
very hot, with currie sauce, rich oyster sauce, or egg sauce and
brown gravy; but should the remains, or the whole of it be
required for the following receipts, pour no gravy over it: in
the latter case do not take off the tape for several hours. The
tongue may be stewed with the head, but will require rather
less time. We do not think it needful to repeat in every receipt
our directions for adding salt to, and removing carefully the
scum from, meats that are stewed or boiled, but the cook must
not neglect either. When the trouble of boning is objected to,
it can be dispensed with for some of the dishes which follow,
but not for all. After the head is taken out, boil the gravy
until it is well reduced, and rich: it should be strongly jellied
when cold. <A bone of ham, or a slice of hung beef will much
improve its flayour ; but vegetables must be- avoided if it be
-wanted to keep: a little spice and a faggot of parsley may be
added to it, and a calf’s foot will be sure to give it the requisite

200 © MODERN COOKERY. [cIAP, IX.

degree of firmness. This receipt is for a head without the
skin.

BURLINGTON WHIMSEY.

Set aside until quite cold half a calf’s head dressed by the
preceding receipt. If, on cutting it, the gelatinous part should
not appear perfectly tender, pare it off closely from the head,
weigh, and mince it; put it into a pint of good gravy, and stew
it gently from ten to fifteen minutes. Minceas much more of
the head as will make up a pound in weight after the edges are
trimmed off, and part of the fat is taken away; add to this three
ounces of the lean of a boiled ham finely chopped, the grated
rind of a large lemon, three teaspoonsful of parsley and one of
thyme shred very small, three quarters of a teaspoonful of mace,
half a small nutmeg grated, a teaspoonful of salt, and a half-
quarter one of cayenne; stir the whole well together, and put
it, with half a pint more of gravy, to the portion which has
been already simmered. When the whimsey has boiled soft
from four to five minutes, pour it into moulds or pans, in whic
slices of the tongue have been evenly arranged, and when quite
cold it will turn out very firmly. It may be garnished, before
it is sent to table, with branches of parsley, which should, how-
ever, be perfectly dry ; and when served for supper or luncheon,
it may be accompanied by salad’sauce.

Calf’s head, 1 Ib.; lean of ham, 3 ozs.; gravy, 14 pint; rind
of 1 large lemon; parsley, 3: teaspoonsful ; thyme and salt, each
1 teaspoonful; mace, 3 teaspoonful; } nutmeg; cayenne, $ part
of teaspoonful: 5 minutes.

Obs.—The remains of a plain boiled head may be made to
serve for this dish, provided the gravy used with it be well
jellied and of high flavour. Slices from the small end of a
boiled and smoked ox-tongue, from their bright colour improve
greatly its appearance. It should be tasted before it is
poured out, that salt or any other seasoning may be added if
necdful. After three or four days’ keeping, should any mould
appear upon the surface, take it off, re-melt the whimsey, and
give it two minutes’ boil. For change, the herbs may be omitted,
and the quantity of ham increased, or some minced tongue sub-
stituted for it.

CUTLETS OF CALF’S HEAD.

Prepare, by The Cook’s Receipt, half a calf’s head with or
without the skin on; only, in the latter case, allow more time
for the boiling. When it is quite cold, remove the fillets of tape,

CHAP. IX. ] VEAL. i 201

and cut the head into slices of half an inch thick, brush them
over with yolk of egg, and dip them into fine bread-crumbs,
seasoned with the grated rind of half a lemon, half a teaspoonful
. of salt, a dessertspoonful of minced savoury herbs, some cayenne,
and a little of the lean of a boiled ham chopped very small,
should this last be at hand. Fry the cutlets in butter of a fine
light brown, make some gravy in the pan as for veal cutlets,
and add to it the juice of half a lemon; or mix a large tea-
spoonful of currie-powder, and ,one of flour, very smoothly
with the butter, shake them over the fire for four or five
minutes, and let the gravy simmer as much longer, after the
water is added; or serve the cutlets, covered with good mush-
room sauce.

HASHED CALF’S HEAD. |

When the whole of this dish has to be prepared, make for it
a quart of stock, and proceed in all else as directed for mock
turtle soup (page 23); but after the head has been parboiled,
cut down a full pound and a half of it for the hash, and slice it
small and thick, instead of dividing it into dice. Make the
brains into cakes (see page 148), and garnish the dish with
forcemeat-balls, rolled in egg, and in the finest. bread-crumbs,
then fried a delicate brown, and well drained, and dried upon a
warm sieve reversed. The wine and other seasonings should be
the same as for the soup. .

Rich gravy, 1 quart; flesh of calf’s head, full 1} lb.; wine,
and other seasonings, as for.mock turtle soup.

Obs.—The gravy for this hash should be stewed with ham,
eschalots, &c., exactly as for the soup.

CHEAP HASH OF CALF’S HEAD.

Take the flesh from the bone of a cold boiled head, and put
it aside until wanted; take about three pints of the liquor in
which it was cooked; break the bones, and stew them down
with a small bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, or two should
they be small, a little carefully fried onion, four cloves, a dozen
corns of pepper, and either a slice or two of lean unboiled ham,
or the bone of a boiled one, quite cleared of flesh, well bruised
and broken, and freed carefully from any of the smoked out-
sides. If neither of these can be had, from half to a whole
pound of neck of beef should be stewed with the bones, or the
whole will be insipid in flavour. When the liquid is reduced
nearly half, strain it, take off the fat, thicken it with a little
well made roux, or, if more convenient, with flour and butter,

202 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Ix.

stirred into it, when it boils, or with rice flour or arrow-root,
mixed with a little spice, mushroom catsup, or Harvey’s sauce,
and a small quantity of lemon pickle or Chili vinegar. Heat
the meat slowly in the sauce when it is ready, but do not allow
it to boil. The forcemeat, No. 1. of Chapter VI., may be rolled
into balls, fried, and served round it. The gravy should be
well seasoned. *

TO DRESS COLD CALF’S HEAD OR VEAL
A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. (GOOD.)
(English Receipt.)

Cut into’ small delicate slices, or into scollops of equal size,
sufficient cold calf’s head or veal for a dish. Next knead very
smoothly together with a knife two ounces of butter, and a
small dessertspoonful of flour; put these into a stewpan or well
tinned saucepan, and keep them stirred or shaken over a gentle
fire until they have simmered for a minute or two, but do not
let them take the slightest colour; then add to them in very
small portions (letting the sauce boil up after each is poured in)
half a pint of pale veal gravy, or of good shin-of-beef stock, and
when the whole is very smoothly blended, and has boiled for a -
couple of minutes, mix together and stir to it a tablespoonful of
common vinegar, a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, a little
cayenne, a tablespoonful of good mushroom catsup, and a very
small bit of sugar; and when the sauce again boils, strew a
tablespoonful of minced parsley over the meat, lay it in, and let
it stand by the fire until it is quite-heated through, but do not
allow it to boil: if kept just at the simmering point for ten or
twelve minutes it may be served perfectly hot without. .The
addition of the mushroom catsup converts this into an English
sauce, and renders it in colour, as well as in flavour, unlike the
French one which bears the same name, and which is acidulated
generally with lemon-juice instead of vinegar. Pickled mush-
rooms are sometimes added to the dish: the parsley when it is
objected to may be omitted, and the yolks of two or three eggs
mixed with a little cream may be stirred in, but not allowed to
boil, just before the meat is served. When veal is used for this
hash instead of calf’s head, it should be cut into slices not much
larger than a shilling, and freed entirely from fat, sinew, and
the brown edges. When neither broth nor gravy is at hand, a
morsel or two of lean ham, and a few of the trimmings or bones
of the head or joint, may be boiled down to supply its place.

Sufficient cold calf’s head, or meat, for a dish; butter, 2 ozs.;
flour, 1 small dessertspoonful; gravy, or strong broth, } pint;

CHAP. IX. ] : VEAL. | 203

vinegar, and mushroom catsup, of each 1 tablespoonful ; Chili
vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful; small bit of sugar; little cayenne,
and salt if needed; parsley, 1 tablespoonful (pickled mushrooms
or not at pleasure). —

Obs.—Soles or codfish are very good, if raised neatly from the
bones, or flaked, and heated in this Maitre d’Hotel sauce.

‘CALF’S HEAD BRAWN.
(Author's Receipt.)

The half of a fine large calf’s head, with the skin on, will
best answer for this brawn. Take out the brains, and bone it
entirely, or get the butcher todo this; rub a little fine salt over,
and let it drain for ten or twelve hours; next wipe it dry, and rub
it well in every part with three quarters of an ounce of saltpetre
finely powdered (or with an ounce should the head be very
large) and mixed with four ounces of common salt, and three of
bay-salt, also beaten fine; turn the head daily in this pickle for
four or five days, rubbing it a little each time; and then pour
over it four ounces of treacle, and continue to turn it every day,
and baste it with the brine very frequently fora month. Hang
it up for a night to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send it to
be smoked where wood only is burned, from three to four
weeks. When wanted for table, wash and scrape it very clean,
but do not soak it; lay it, with the rind downwards, into a
saucepan or stewpan, which will hold it easily ; cover it well
with cold water, as it will swell considerably in the cooking ; let
it heat rather slowly, skim it thoroughly when it first begins to
simmer, and boil it as gently as possible from an hour and three
quarters, to a couple of hours or more, should it not then be
perfectly tender quite through ; for unless sufficiently boiled, the
skin, which greatly resembles brawn, will be unpleasantly
tough when cold. When the fleshy side of the head is done, _
which will be twenty minutes or half an hour sooner than the
outside, pour the water from it, leaving so much only in the
stewpan as will just cover the gelatinous part, and simmer it
until this is thoroughly tender. The head thus cured is very
highly flavoured, and most excellent eating. The receipt for it 1s
entirely new, having originated with ourselves. We give the
reader, in addition the result of our first experiment with it,
which was exceedingly successful :—“ A half calf’s head, not
very large, without the skin, pickled with three ounces of
common salt, two of bay-salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, one
ounce of brown sugar, and half an ounce of pepper, left four
days; then three ounces of treacle added, and the pickling con-

204 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Ix.

tinued for a month ; smoked nearly as long, and boiled between —
one hour and a half, and two hours.” The pepper was omitted
in our second trial, because it did not improve the appearance of
the dish, although it was an advantage in point of flavour.
Juniper-berries might, we think, be added with advantage, when —
they are liked; and cayenne tied in a muslin might supply the
place of the pepper. It is an infinite improvement to have the
skin of the head left on.

TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.

Take out the bone and put a good roll of forcemeat (No. 1,
page 143) under the flap, dividing first, with a sharp knife, the
skin from the meat sufficiently to admit the quantity required ;
secure it well, truss the veal firmly into good shape, place
it at a distance from the fire at first, and baste it with butter.
The outside will have a richer crust of browning if the meat be
washed, wiped tolerably dry, and well floured before it is laid
to the fire. It should be carefully watched, and basted often,
that the fat may not burn. Pour melted butter over it after it
is dished, and serve with it a boiled cheek of bacon and a
lemon. Roast it from three hours and a half, to four hours .
and a half, according to its size. ;

BOILED FILLET OF VEAL.

A small and delicately white fillet should be selected for this
purpose. Bind it round with tape, after having washed it ~
thoroughly; cover it well with cold water, and bring it gently
to boil; watch, and clear off carefully, the scum as it rises, and |
be, at the same time, very cautious not to allow the water to
become smoked. Let the meat be gently simmered from three
hours and a half to four and a half, according to its weight.
Send it to table with rich white sauce, and a boiled tongue; or
make for it in the first instance the oyster forcemeat of Chapter
VI, and serve with the veal a tureen of well-made oyster sauce.

33 to 44 hours.

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.

It is not usual to stuff a loin of veal, but we greatly recom-
mend the practice, as an infinite improvement to the joint.
Make the same forcemeat as for the fillet; and insert it between
the skin and the flesh just over the ends of the bones. Skewer
down the flap, place the joint at a moderate distance from a
sound fire, keep it constantly basted, and be especially careful
not to allow the kidney fat to burn: to prevent this, and to

|
|

;

CHAP. IX. | ‘VEAL. 205

ensure the good appearance of the joint, a buttered paper is

often fastened round the loin, and removed about half an hour
before it is taken from the fire. It is the fashion in some
counties to serve egg-sauce and brown gravy with roast loin, or
breast of veal.

The cook will scarcely need to be told that she must separate
the skin from the flank, with a sharp knife, quite from the end,
to the place where the forcemeat is to be put, and then skewer
the whole very securely. When the veal is not papered, dredge
it well with flour soon after it is laid to the fire.

-2 to 23 hours.

BOILED LOIN OF VEAL.

If dressed with care and served with good sauces, this, when
the meat is small and white, is an exccllent dish, and often more

acceptable to persons of delicate habit than roast veal. Take

from eight to ten pounds of the best end of the loin, leave the
kidney in with all its fat, skewer or bind down the flap, lay the
meat into cold water, and boil it as genily as possible from two
hours and a quarter to two and a half, clearing off the scum

- perfectly, as in dressing the fillet. Send it to table with well-

made oyster sauce, or béchamel, or with white sauce well
flavoured with lemon-juice, and with parsley, boiled, pressed
dry, and finely chopped.

'» 24 to 23 hours.

STEWED LOIN OF VEAL.

Take part of a loin of veal, the chump end will do; put into
a large, thick, well-tinned iron saucepan, or into a stewpan, about
a couple of ounces of butter, and shake it over a moderate fire
until it begins to brown; flour the veal well all over, lay it
into the saucepan, and when it is of a fine, equal, light brown,
pour gradually in veal broth, gravy, or boiling water to nearly
half its depth; add a little salt, one or two sliced carrots, a
small onion, or more when the flavour is much liked, and a
bunch of parsley; stew the veal very softly for an hour or
father more; then turn it, and let it stew for nearly or quite
another hour, or longer should it not appear perfectly done.
As none of our receipts have been tried with large, coarse veal,
the cooking must be regulated by that circumstance, and longer
time allowed should the meat be of more than middling size.

- Dish the joint; skim all the fat from the gravy, and strain it

over the meat; or keep the joint hot while it is rapidly reduced
to a richer consistency. This is merely a plain family stew.

7) Ss, <™ a a
q

206 MODERN COOKERY. _ [ouap. 1x.

BOILED BREAST OF VEAL.

Let both the veal and the sweetbread be washed with exceed- ©
ing nicety, cover them with cold water, clear off the scum as it
rises, throw in a /ztt/e salt, add a bunch of parsley, a large blade of
mace, and twenty white peppercorns; simmer the meat from an
hour to an hour and a quarter, and serve it covered with rich
ohion sauce. Send it to table very hot. The sweetbread may
be taken up when half done, and curried, or made into cutlets,
or stewed in brown gravy. When onions are objected to, sub-
stitute white sauce and a cheek of bacon for them, or parsley
and butter, if preferred to it.

1 to 13 hour.

TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.

Let the caul remain skewered over the joint till within half
an hour of its being ready for table; place it at a moderate dis-
tance from a brisk fire, baste it constantly, and in about an hour
anda half remove the caul, flour the joint, and let it brown.
Dish and pour melted butter over it, and serve it with a cut
lemon, and any other of the usual accompaniments to veal. It
may be garnished with fried balls of the forcemeat (No. 1,
Chapter VI.), about the size of a walnut.

2 to 2} hours.

TO BONE A SHOULDER OF VEAL, MUTTON, OR LAMB.

CR Spread a clean cloth upon a table or
\¢ dresser, and lay the joint flat upon it, |
% with the skin downwards; with a sharp
knife.cut off the fiesh from the inner
Py side, nearly down to the blade bone, of
LOY byl which detach the edges first, then work
Shoulder of Veal or Mutton, the knife under it, keeping it always
boned and rolled. close to the bone, and using all possible
precaution not to pierce the outer skin; when it is m every part
separated from the flesh, loosen it from the socket with the point
of the knife, and remove it ; or, without dividing the two bones,
cut round the joint until it is freed entirely from the meat, and
proceed to detach the second bone. That of the knuckle is
trequently left in, but for some dishes it is necessary to take it
out; in doing this, be careful not to tear the skin. A most
excellent grill may be made by leaving sufiicient meat for it
upon the bones of a shoulder of mutton, when they are removed
from the joint: it will be found very superior to the broiled

CHAP. IX. | VEAL. 207

blade-bone of a roast shoulder, which is so much esteemed by
many people. :

STEWED SHOULDER OF VEAL.
(English Receipt.)

Bone a shoulder of veal, and strew the inside thickly with
savoury herbs, minced small ; season it well with salt, cayenne,
and pounded mace; and place on these a layer of ham cut in
thin slices, and freed from rind and rust. Koll the veal, and
bind it tightly with a fillet; roast it for an hour and a half,
then simmer it gently in good brown gravy for five hours; add
forcemeat balls before it is dished; skim the fat from the gravy,
and serve it with the meat. This receipt, for which we are
indebted to a correspondent on whom we can depend, and which
we have not, therefore, proved ourselves, is for a joint which
weighs ten pounds before it is boned. ‘

ROAST NECK OF VEAL.

The best end of the neck will make an excellent roast. A
forcemeat may be inserted between the skin and the flesh, by
first separating them with a sharp knife; or the dish may be
garnished with the forcemeat in balls. From an hour and three
quarters to a couple of hours will roast it. Pour melted butter
over it when it is dished, and serve it like other joints. Let
it be floured when first laid to the fire, kept constantly basted,
and always at a sufficient distance to prevent its being scorched.

13 to 2 hours.

For the forcemeat, see No. 1, Chapter VI. From 8 to 10
minutes will fry the balls.

NECK OF VEAL A LA CREME.
(Or au Béchamet.)

Take the best end of a neck of white and well-fed veal,
detach the flesh from the ends of the bones, cut them sufficiently
short to give the joint a good square form, roll and skewer the
skin over them, wrap a buttered paper round the meat, lay it at
a moderate distance from a clear fire, and keep it well basted
with butter for an hour and a quarter; then remove the paper
and continue the basting with a pint, or more, of béchamel, or
of rich white sauce, until the veal is sufficiently roasted, and
_ well encrusted with it. Serve some béchamel under it in the
dish, and send it very hot to table. For variety, give the
béchamel, in making it, a high flavour of mushrooms, and add

208 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap. 1x.

some small buttons, stewed very white and tender, to the portion 3
reserved for saucing the joint.
2 to 23 hours.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL EN RAGOUT.

Cut in small thick slices the flesh of a knuckle of veal, season
it with a little fine salt and white pepper, flour it lightly, and —
fry it in butter to a pale brown, lay it into a very clean stewpan
or saucepan, and just cover it with boiling water; skim it clean,
and add to it a faggot of thyme and parsley, the white part of a
head of celery, a small quantity of cayenne, and a blade or two
of mace. Stew it very softly from an hour and three quarters, to
two hoursand a half. Thicken and enrich the gravy if needful
with rice-flour and mushroom catsup or Harvey’s sauce, or with
a large teaspoonful of flour, mixed with a slice of butter, a little
good store-sauce and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Fried force-
meat balls of No. 1, page 143, may be added at pleasure. With
an additional quantity of water, or of broth (made with the
bones of the joint), a pint and a half of young green peas
stewed with the veal for an hour will give an agreeable variety
of this dish.

BOILED KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

After the joint has been trimmed and well washed, put it
into a vessel well adapted to it in size, for if it be very large, so
much water will be required that the veal will be deprived of
its flavour; it should be well covered with it, and very genily
boiled until it is perfectly tender in every part, but not so much
done as.to separate from the bone. Clear off the scum with
scrupulous care when the simmering first commences, and throw
in a small portion of salt; as this, if sparingly used, will not
redden the meat, and will otherwise much improve it. Parsley
and butter is usually both poured over, and sent to table with a
knuckle of veal, and boiled bacon also should accompany it.
From the sinewy nature of this joint, it requires more than the
usual time of cooking, a quarter of an hour to the pound not
being sufficient for it.

Veal, 6 to 7 lbs.: 2 hours or more.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL WITH RICE OR GREEN PEAS.
Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather more than sufficient
water to cover it; bring it slowly to a boil; take off all the
scum with great care, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, and when

CHAP. IX.] 4 VEAL. 209

the joint has simmered for about halfan hour, throw in from eight
to twelve ounces of well washed rice, and stew the veal gently
for an hour and a haif longer, or until both the meat and rice
are perfectly tender. A seasoning of cayenne and mace in fine
powder with more salt, should it be required, must be added
twenty or thirty minutes before they are served. For a supe-
rior stew gvod veal broth may be substituted for the water.

Veal, 6 Ibs.; water, 3 to 4 pints; salt, 1 teaspoonful: 30 to
40 minutes. Rice, 8 to 12 ozs.: 14 hour. [Seasoning of cayenne,
‘mace, and more salt if needed. A quart or even more of full
grown green peas added to the veal as soon as the scum has
been cleared off will make a most excellent stew. It should be
well seasoned with white pepper, and the mace should be
omitted. ‘Two or three cucumbers, pared and freed from the
seeds, may be sliced into it when it boils, or four or five young
lettuces shred small may be added instead. Green onions also,
.when they are liked, may be used to give it flavour. ]

SMALL PAIN DE VEAU, OR, VEAL CAKE.

Chop separately, and very fine, a pound and a quarter of veal
quite free from fat and skin, and six ounces of beet kidney-suet ;
add a teaspoonful of salt, a full third as much of white pepper,
and of mace or nutmeg, with the grated rind of half a lemon,
and turn the whole well together with the chopping-knife
until it is thoroughly mixed: then press it smoothly into a
small, round baking dish, and send it to a moderate oven for an
hour and a quarter. Lift it into a clean, hot dish, and serve it
plain, or with a little brown gravy inatureen. Three ounces
of the lean of a boiled ham minced small, will very much im-
prove this cake, of which the size can be increased at will, and
proportionate time allowed for dressing it. If baked in a hot
oven, the meat will shrink to half its proper size, and be very
dry. When done, it should be of a fine ight brown, and like
a cake in appearance. :

Veal, 13 Ib.; beef-suet, 6 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; pepper
and mace, or nutmeg, # teaspoonful each; rind of 3 lemon;
ham (when added), 3 ozs.: baked 14 hour.

BORDYKE VEAL CAKE.
(Good.)

Take a pound and a half of veal perfectly clear of fat and

_ skin, and eight ounces of the nicest striped bacon; chop them

‘separately, then mix them well together with the grated rind of

a small lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt, a fourth as much of
P

210 MODERN COOKERY. [cH4P. IX, —

cayenne, the third part of a nutmeg, grated, and a half-tea-
spoonful of freshly pounded mace. When it is pressed into the
dish, let it be somewhat higher in the centre than at the edge;
and whether to be served hot or cold, lift it out as soon as it
comes from the oven, and place it ona strainer that the fat may
drain from it: it will keep many days if the under side be dry.

The bacon should be weighed after the rind, and any rustit may __

exhibit, have been trimmed from it: that cured by the re-
_ ceipt. of p. 244 (see Chapter XI.) is best for the purpose.
This cake is excellent cold, better indeed than the preceding
one; but slices of either if preferred hot, may be warmed
through in a Dutch oven, or on the gridiron, or in a few
spoonsful of gravy. The same ingredients made into small
cakes, well floured, and slowly fried from twelve to fifteen
minutes, then served with gravy made in the pan as for cutlets,
will be found extremely good.

Veal, 13 1b.; striped bacon, 8 ozs.; salt and mace, 1 tea-
spoonful each ; rind of lemon, 1; third of 1 nutmeg; cayenne,
4 grains: baked 1} to 13 hour.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. (ENTREE).

French cooks always prefer for this dish, which is a common —

one in their own country, that part of the fillet to which the fat
or udder is attached ;* but the flesh of the finer part of the
neck, or loin, raised clear from the bones, may be made to an-
swer the purpose nearly, or quite as well, and often much more
conveniently, as the meat with us is not divided for sale as in
France; and to purchase the entire fillet, for the sake of the
fricandeau, would render it exceedingly expensive. Lay the
veal flat upon a table, or dresser, with the skin uppermost, and
endeavour, with one stroke of an exceedingly sharp knife, to
clear this off, and to leave the surface of the meat extremely
smooth ; next lard it thickly with small dardoons, as directed for
a pheasant (page 166), and make one or two incisions in the
underside with the point of a knife, that it may the better im-
bibe the flavour of the seasonings. Take a stewpan, of sufficient
size to hold the fricandeau, and the proper quantity of vegeta-
bles compactly arranged, without much room being left round
the meat. Put into it a couple of large carrots, cut in thick
slices, two onions of moderate size, two or three roots of parsley,
three bay leaves, two small blades of mace, a branch or two of
lemon thyme, and a little cayenne, or asaltspoonful of white pep-

® Called by them the neia,

se
x

CHAP. IX. | VEAL, | 211

percorns. Raise these high in the centre of the stewpan, so as
to support the meat, and prevent its touching the gravy. Cover
them with slices of very fat bacon, and place the fricandeau
gently on them; then pour in as much good veal broth, or
stock, as will nearly cover the vegetables without reaching to
theveal. A cali’s foot, split in two, may with advantage be laid
under them in the first instance. Stew the fricandeau very
gently for upwards of three hours, or until it is found to be
extremely tender when probed with a fine skewer or a larding-
pin. Plenty of live embers must then be put on the lid of the
stewpan for ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, to render the
lardoons firm. Lift out the fricandeau, and keep it hot; strain
and reduce the gravy very quickly, after having skimmed off
every particle of fat ; glaze the veal, and serve it on a ragout of
‘sorrel, cucumbers, or spinach. ‘This, though rather an elaborate
receipt, is the best we can offer to the reader for a dish, which
is now almost as fashionable with us as it is common on the
Continent. Some English cooks have a very summary method
of preparing it; they merely lard and boil the veal until they
can “cut it with a spoon,” then glaze and serve it with “brown
gravy in the dish.” This may be very tolerable eating, but it
will bear small resemblance to the French fricandeau.
34 to 4 hours.

SPRING-STEW OF VEAL.

Cut two pounds of veal, free from fat, into small half-inch
thick cutlets ; flour them well, and fry them in butter with two
small cucumbers sliced, sprinkled with pepper, and floured, one
moderate sized lettuce, and twenty four green’ gooseberries cut
open lengthwise and seeded. When the whole is nicely browned,
lift it into a thick saucepan, and pour gradually into the pan
half a pint, or rather more, of boiling water, broth, or gravy.
Add as much salt and pepper as it requires. Give it a minute’s
simmer, and pour it over the meat, shaking it well round the
pan as this is done. Let the veal stew gently from three quar-
ters of an hour toan hour. A bunch of green onions cut small
may be added to the other vegetables if liked ; and the veal will
eat better, if slightly seasoned with salt and pepper before it is
floured ; a portion of fat can be left on it if preferred.

Veal, 2 lbs. ; cucumbers, 2 ; lettuce, 1; green gooseberries, 24;
water or broth, 4 pint or more; # to 1 hour.

; BREZOLLES.
Cut from the loin or fillet, three pounds of veal, in the thin-

212 MCDERN COOKERY. [CHAP. 1X.

nest possible slices, and let them be free from fat and skin. Slice -

also, very thin, a pound of striped bacon, and trim away the
rind. Mix thoroughly a dessertspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful
of pounded mace, as much of nutmeg, one and a half of white

these season the veal equally ; butter thickly a deep earthen-
pan, and lay the meat in smoothly in alternate layers, begin-
ning with the bacon; press the whole closely down, put a round

of buttered paper over it, tie on the cover bf the pan, set it

-pepper, and the minced or grated rinds of two lemons, and with —

into a large saucepan of warm water, and let it simmer for two —
hours and a half from the time of its beginning to boil. If

to be served hot, merely heap the meat upon a dish, skim
the fat from the gravy, and pour it over; but if to be eaten —

cold, which it more usually is, put a plate with a weight upon
it on the top of the brezolles, pour all the gravy from them,

and leave them in the pan for four and twenty hours, when —
they will turn out in a solid mass or cake, and remain good —
many days if kept in a cool place; the gravy, strained, and —
reduced to jelly, may be placed round them as a garnish. —

The brezolles may, if more convenient, be baked in a gentle

- oven, but they will then require rather less time. In France —

they are commonly stewed as slowly as possible, and when half

done, a couple of glasses of white wine or of rich gravy is added —

to them; minced herbs are also sometimes strewed between the ©

layers of meat.

Veal, 3 lbs.; bacon, 1 1b.; salt, 1 dessertspoonful ; mace and q

nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful each; pepper, 1} teaspoonful; rinds of
lemons, 2: simmered 2} hours. ,
NORMAN HARRICO.

Brown in a stewpan, or fry lightly, after having sprinkled
them with pepper, salt and flour, from two to three pounds of

veal cutlets.. If taken from the neck, chop the bones very —
short, and trim away the greater part of the fat. Arrange ©
them as flat as they can be in a saucepan; give a pint of hot ©
_ water a boil in the pan in which they have been browned, and —
pour it on them; adda small faggot of parsley, and, should the ~

flavour be liked, one of green onions also. Let the meat
simmer softly for half an hour; then cover it with small new

potatoes which have had a single boil in water, give the sauce- —
pan a shake, and let the harrico stew very gently for another —
half hour, or until the potatoes are quite done, and the veal is —

tender. When the cutlets are thick and the potatoes approach-

. ing their full size, more time will be required for the meat, and

* SS =v li
as ‘ >
ie aw a a el
TORS GY.) imal : x da, Seed on

CHAP. IX. | VEAL. ) 213

the vegetables may be at once divided: if extremely young they
will not need the previous boil. Before the harrico is served,
skim the fat from it, and add salt and pepper should it not be
sufficiently seasoned. A few bits of lean ham, or shoulder of
- bacon browned with the veal, will much improve this dish, and
for some tastes, a little acid will render it more agreeable. Very
delicate pork chops may be dressed in the same way.
Veal, 2 to 3 lbs.; water (or gravy), 1 pint; new potatoes,
11 to 2 Ibs.; faggot, parsley and green onions : 1 hour or more.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Take them, if possible, free from bone, and after having
trimmed them into proper shape, beat them with a paste roller
until the fibre of the meat is thoroughly broken; flour them
well to prevent the escape of the gravy, and fry them from
twelve to fifteen minutes over a fire which is not sufficiently
fierce to burn them before they are quite cooked through : they
should be of a fine amber brown, and perfectly done. Litt
them into a hot dish, pour the fat from the pan, throw in a
slice of fresh butter, and when it is melted, stir or dredge in a
dessertspoonful of flour ; keep these shaken until they are well-
coloured, then pour gradually to them a cup of gravy or boil-
ing water; add pepper, salt, a little lemon pickle or juice, give
the whole a boil, and pour it over the cutlets : a few forcemeat
balls, fried, and served with them, is usually a very acceptable

addition to this dish, even when it is garnished or accompanied _

with rashers of ham or bacon. A morsel of glaze, or of the
jelly of roast meat, should, when at hand, be added to the
sauce, which a little mushroom powder would further improve :
mushroom sauce, indeed, is considered by many epicures, as in-
dispensable with veal cutlets. We have recommended, in this
one instance, that the meat should be thoroughly beaten, be-
cause we find that the veal is wonderfully improved by the
process, which, however, we’still deprecate for other meat.
12 to 15 minutes.

VEAL CUTLETS A LINDIENNE, OR INDIAN FASHION. (ENTREE.)

Mix well together four ounces of very fine stale bread-
crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of the best

currie powder. Cut down into small well-shaped cutlets or _

-eollops, two pounds of veal free from fat, skin, or bone; beat

the slices flat, and dip them first into some beaten egg- a

yolks, and then into the seasoned crumbs; moisten them

. ‘ ' Mah

214 MODERN COOKERY. - (CHAP. IX.

again with egg, and pass them a second time through the
bread-crumbs. When all are ready, fry them in three or four
ounces of butter over a moderate fire, from twelve to fourteen —
minutes. For sauce, mix smoothly with a knife, a teaspoonful
of flour and an equal quantity of currie-powder, with a small
slice of butter; shake these in the pan for about five minutes,
pour to them a cup of gravy or boiling water, add. salt and.
cayenne, if required, and the strained juice of half a lemon;
simmer the whole till well flavoured, and pour it round the —
cutlets. A better plan is, to have some good currie sauce
ready prepared to send to table with this dish; which may
likewise be served with only well-made common cutlet gravy,
from the pan, when much of the pungent flavour of the currie-
powder is not desired.

Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; currie powder, 1
tablespoonful; veal, 2 lbs.: 12 to 14 minutes. —

Obs.—These cutlets may be broiled; they should then ‘be
well beaten first, and dipped into clarified butter instead of
egg, before they are passed through the curried seasoning.

VEAL CUTLETS,; OR COLLOPS. (ENTREE.)
(A la Frangaise.)

Cut the veal into small, thin, round collops of equal size,
arrange them evenly in a sauté-pan, or in a small frying-pan,
and sprinkle a little fine salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg
on them. Clarify, or merely dissolve in a clean saucepan,
with a gentle degree of heat, an ounce or two of good butter, and
pour it equally over the meat. Set the pan aside until the
dinner-hour, then fry the collops over a clear fire, and when
they are lightly browned, which will be in from four to five
minutes, lift them into a hot dish, and sauce them with a
little Hspagnole, or with a gravy made quickly in the pan, and
flavoured with lemon-juice and cayenne. They are excellent
even without any sauce.

3 to 4 minutes.

SCOTCH COLLOPS. (ENTREE.)

CHAP. IX. } VEAL. 215

1 -
VEAL CUTLETS, A LA MODE DE LONDRES} OR, LONDON
FASHION. (ENTREE.)

Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of
a neck of veal, free it from the skin, and from the greater por-
tion of the fat, slice it equally into cutlets little more than a
quarter of an inch thick, brush them with egg, strew them with
fine bread-crumbs, and fry them of a light brown. ‘Toast, or
_ fry apart as many small slices of bacon as there are cutlets, and
- let them be trimmed nearly to the same shape; place them
alternately on their edges round the inside of a hot dish (so as
to form a sort of chain), and pour into the middle some rich
gravy made in the pan, and very slightly flavoured with escha-
lot; or substitute for this some good brown mushroom sauce.
Savoury herbs, grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or mace, salt, and
white pepper, or cayenne, should be mixed with the bread-
crumbs, in the proportions directed at page 200, for cutlets of
calf’s head; or they may be varied at pleasure. A cheek of
bacon is best adapted to this dish.

SWEETBREADS SIMPLY DRESSED (ENTREE.)

In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be
well soaked in lukewarm water, then thrown into boiling water
to blanch them, as it is called, and to render them firm. If
lifted out after they have boiled from five to ten minutes,
according to their size, and laid immediately into fresh spring
water to cool, their colour will be the better preserved. ‘They
may then be gently stewed for three quarters of an hour in veal
gravy, which, with the usual additions of cream, lemon, and
egeg-yolks, may be converted into a fricassee sauce for them,
when they are done; or they may be lifted from it, glazed, and
served with good Spanish gravy; or, the glazing being omitted,
they may be sauced with the sharp Maitre d’Hotel sauce of

age 106. They may also be simply floured, and roasted in a
Dah oven, being often basted with butter, and frequently —
turned. A full sized sweetbread, after having been blanched,
will require quite three quarters of an hour to dress it.

Blanched 5 to 10 minutes. Stewed ? hour or more.

SWEETBREAD CUTLETS. (ENTREE.)
. Boil the sweetbreads for half an hour in water, or veal broth, |
and when they are perfectly cold, cut them into slices of equal _
_ thickness, brush them with yolks of egg, and dip them into very
2 il

216 | MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX.:

fine bread-crumbs, ‘seasoned with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-
rind, and mace; fry them in butter of a fine light brown,
arrange them ina dish, placing them high in the centre, and
pour wnder them a gravy made in the pan, thickened with
mushroom powder, and flavoured with lemon-juice ; or, in lieu
of this, sauce, them with some rich brown gravy, to which a
glass of sherry or Madeira has been added. When it can be
done conveniently, take as many slices of a cold boiled tongue,
as there are sweetbread cutlets; pare the rind from them, trim

them into good shape, and dress them with the sweetbreads, —

after they have been egged and seasoned in the same way;
place each cutlet upon a slice of tongue when they are dished.

For variety, substitute croutons of fried bread, stamped out to —

the size of the cutlets, with a round or fluted paste or cake
cutter. ‘The crumb of a stale loaf, very evenly sliced, is best
for the purpose.

STEWED CALF’S FEET.
(Cheap and good.)

This is an excellent family dish, highly nutritious, and often
very inexpensive, as the feet, during the summer, are usually
sold at a low rate. Wash them with nicety, divide them at the
joint, and split the claws; arrange them closely in a thick
stewpan’or saucepan, and pour in as much cold water as will

cover them about half an inch: three pints will be sufficient for

_ acouple of large feet. When broth or stock is at hand, it is
good economy to substitute it for the water, as, by this means, a
portion of strong and well-flavoured jellied gravy will be
obtained for general use, the full quantity not being needed as
sauce for the feet. The whole preparation will be much
improved by laying a thick slice of the lean of an unboiled ham,
knuckle of bacon, hung beef, or the end of a dried tongue, at
the bottom of the pan, before the other ingredients are added ;
or, when none of these are at hand, by supplying the deficiency
with a few bits of stewing-beef or veal: the feet being of them-
selves insipid, will be much more palatable with one or the
other of these additions. Throw in from half to three quarters
of a teaspoonful of salt, when they begin to boil, and, after the
scum has been all cleared off, add a few branches of parsley, a
little celery, one small onion or more, stuck with half a dozen
cloves, a carrot or two, a large blade of mace, and twenty corns
of whole pepper; stew them softly until the flesh will part
entirely from the bones; take it from them; strain part of the

gravy, and skim off all the fat, flavour it with catsup, orany —

CHAP. IX. | VEAL. 217

other store sauce, and thicken it, when it boils, with arrow-
root, or flour and butter ; put in the flesh of the feet, and serve
the dish as soon as the whole is very hot. A glass of wine, a
little lemon-juice, and a few forcemeat balls will convert this
into a very superior stew; a handful of mushroom-buttons also.
simmered in it for half an hour before it is dished, will vary it
agreeably.

Calf’s feet (large), 2; water, 3 pints; salt, 3 to 3 teaspoonful;
Onions, 1 to 3; cloves, 6; peppercorns, 20; mace, large blade;
little celery and parsley; carrots, 1 or 2: stewed softly, 23. to
3} hours. Mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoonful ; flour, or arrow-
root, 1 large teaspoonful; butter, 1 to 2 ozs. Cayenne, to
taste.

CALF’S LIVER FRIED.

To render the liver firm when dressed, lay it into a deep dish,
and pour over it half a pint of vinegar; turn it often in this,
and let it lie for four and twenty hours, or longer even, if more
convenient. Sliced onions, or eschalots, and branches of parsley,
may be steeped with it in the vinegar, when their flavour is
relished ; but, in general, they would not, we think, be con-
sidered an improvement. Wash and wipe the liver very dry,
slice it evenly, season it with pepper, salt, and savoury herbs
shred extremely small, then flour and fry it in butter quickly
of a fine light brown; lift it out and keep it very hot, while a
gravy is made for it in the pan. Pour out the fat, throw in a
small slice of fresh butter, and when it boils stir to it a half-
teaspoonful of flour; add a seasoning of pepper and salt,
about a quarter-pint of boiling water, and a little lemon-juice,
Chili vinegar, or lemon-pickle; shake the pan well round, give
the whole a boil, sauce the liver with it, and send it to table
with or without a garnish of curled bacon.

TO ROAST CALF’S LIVER.

Take the whole or part of a fine white sound liver, and either
lard it as a fricandeau upon the surface, or with large strips of
highly-seasoned bacon in the inside (see Larding, page 166) ;
or should either of these modes be objected to, merely wrap it
in a well-buttered paper, and roast it from an hour to an hour
and a quarter, at a moderate distance from a clear fire, keeping
it constantly basted. Remove the paper, and froth the liver
well from ten to fifteen minutes before it is done. It should be
served with a sauce of some piquancy, such as a poivrade, or
brown eschalot, in addition to some good gravy. French cooks

218 | MODERN COOKERY. [cnar. 1x.

steep the liver over-night in vinegar, with a sliced onion and
branches of savoury herbs laid over it; this whitens and
renders it firm. As an economical mode, some small bits of the
liver may be trimmed off, floured, and lightly fried with a
sliced onion, and stewed down for gravy in three quarters of a
pint of water which has been poured into the pan, with the
addition of a few peppercorns, and a small bunch of herbs. A
seasoning of salt must not be forgotten, and a little lemon
pickle, or juice, would generally be considered an improvement.
1 to 13 hour. .

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL OR LAMB, WITH MUSHROOMS.
(ENTREE.) ;

Slice very thin the white part of some cold veal, divide and
trim it into scallops not larger than a shilling, and lay it into a
clean saucepan or stewpan. Wipe with a bit of. new flannel
and a few grains of salt, from a quarter to half a pint of mush-
room-buttons, and slice them into a little butter which just
begins to simmer; stew them in it from twelve. to fifteen
minutes, without allowing them to take the slightest colour;
then lift them out and lay them on the veal. Pour boiling to

-them a pint of sauce tournée (see page 96); let the blanquette -

remain near but not close to the fire for awhile; bring it
nearer, heat it slowly, and when it is on the point of boiling
mix a spoonful or two of the sauce from it with the well beaten
yolks of four fresh eggs; stir them to the remainder; add the
strained juice of half a small lemon; shake the saucepan above
the fire until the sauce is just set, and serve the blanquette
instantly.

Cold veal, Ib.; mushrooms, ¥ to $ pint: stewed in 14 02.
butter, 12 to 15 minutes. Sauce tournée, or thickened veal
gravy, 1 pint ; yolks of eggs, 4; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful.

Obs.—Any white meat may be served en blanquette. The
mushrooms are not indispensable for it, but they are always a
great improvement. White sauce substituted for the thickened
veal gravy will at once convert this dish into an inexpensive
fricassee. Mace, salt, and cayenne, must be added to either
preparation, should it require seasoning.

MINCED VEAL.

When there is neither gravy nor broth at hand, the bones
and trimmings of the meat must be boiled down to furnish what
is required for the mince. As cold meat is very light in
weight, a pound of the white part of the veal will be sufficient

CHAP. IX. | VEAL. 219

for a dish, and for this quantity a pint of gravy will be needed.
Break down the bones of the joint well, add the trimmings of
the meat, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a slice or two of
carrot or of celery; a blade of mace, a few white peppercorns,
and a bit or two of lean ham, boiled, or unboiled if it can be
had, as either will improve the flavour of the mince. Pour to
these a pint and a half of water, and stew them gently for a
couple of hours ; then strain off the gravy, let it cool and clear
it entirely from the fat. Cut the white part of the veal small
with a very sharp knife, after all the gristle and brown edges
have been trimmed away. Some persons like a portion of fat
minced with it, others object to the addition altogether. Thicken
the gravy with a teaspoonful and a half of flour smoothly
mixed with a small slice of butter, season the veal with a salt-
spoonful or more of salt, and half as much white pepper and
grated nutmeg, or pounded mace; add the lightly-grated rind
of half a small lemon; mix the whole well, put it into the
gravy, and heat it thoroughly by the side of the fire without
allowing it to boil; serve it with pale-toasted sippets in and
round the dish. A spoonful or two of cream is always an
improvement to this mince.

MINCED VEAL AND OYSTERS.

The most elegant mode of preparing this dish is to mince
about a pound of the whitest part of the inside of a cold roast
fillet or loin of veal, to heat it without allowing it to boil, ina_
pint of rich white sauce, or béchamel, and to mix with it at the
moment of serving, three dozens of small oysters ready bearded,
and plumped in their own strained liquor, which is also to be
added to the mince; the requisite quantity of salt, cayenne, and
mace should be sprinkled over the veal before it is put into the
sauce. Garnish the dish with pale fried sippets of bread, or
with fleurons* of brioche, or of puff-paste. Nearly half a pint
of mushrooms minced, and stewed white in a little butter, may
be mixed with the veal instead of the oysters; or should they
be very small they may be added to it whole: from ten to
twelve minutes will be sufficient to make them tender. Balls
of delicately fried oyster-forcemeat laid round the dish will
give another good variety of it.

Veal minced, 1 lb.; white sauce, 1 pint; oysters, 3 dozens,
with their liquor; or mushrooms, } pint, stewed in butter 10 to
- 12 minutes

* Fleurons, flowers, or flower-like figures, cut out with tin shapes.

; | a
tk a
‘ are ho
beg me ‘a

220 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX.,

VEAL-SYDNEY. (GOOD.)

Pour boiling on an ounce and a half of fine bread-crumbs
nearly half a pint of good veal stock or gravy, and let them
stand till cool; mix with them then, two ounces of beef-suet
shred very small, half a pound of cold roast veal carefully
trimmed from the brown edges, skin, and fat, and finely minced;
the grated rind of half a lemon, nearly a teaspoonful of salt, a
little cayenne, the third of a teaspoonful of mace or nutmeg,
and four well-beaten eggs. Whisk up the whole well together,
put it into a buttered dish, and bake it from three quarters of
an hour toan hour. Cream may be used instead of gravy when
more convenient, but this last will give the better flavour. A
little clarified butter put into the dish before the other ingre-
dients are poured in will be an improvement.

Bread-crumbs, 14 0z.; gravy or cream, nearly } pint; beef-.
suet, 2 ozs. ; cold veal, 3 Ib.; rind of 4 lemon; salt, small tea-
spoonful; third as much mace and nutmeg; little cayenne; eggs,
4 large or 5 small: 3 to 1 hour.

FRICASSEED VEAL.

Divide into small, thick, handsome slices of equal size, about
a couple of pounds of veal, quite free from fat, bone, and skin;
dissolve a couple of ounces of butter in a wide stewpan, and just
as it begins to boil lay in the veal, and shake it over the fire
until it is quite firm on both sides; but do not allow it to take
the slightest colour. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and when
it is well mixed with the cutlets, pour gradually to them, shaking
the pan often, sufficient boiling veal-gravy to almost cover
them. Stew them gently from fifty to sixty minutes, or longer
should they not be perfectly tender. Add a flavouring of mace,
some salt, a quarter-pint of rich cream, a couple of egg-yolks,
and a little lemon-juice, observing, when the last are added, the
directions given for a blanquette of veal, page 218. Strips of
lemon-rind can be stewed in the gravy at pleasure. Two or
three dozens of mushroom-buttons, added twenty minutes before
it is served, will much improve this fricassée.

"MUTTON. 221

CHAPTER X.

MUTTON.

No. No.
‘1. Leg. 6. Shoulder.

2. Best End of Loin. 7. Breast.

3. Chump End of Loin. . A Saddle is the Two Loins.
4. Neck, Best End. A Chine, the Two Necks.
5. Neck, Scrag End.

TO CHOOSE MUTTON.

Tus best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely-grained, and
short-legged; the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright hue,
and the fat white and clear: when this is yellow, the meat is
rank, and of bad quality. Mutton is not considered by expe-
rienced judges to be in perfection until it is nearly or quite five
years old; but to avoid the additional expense of feeding the
animal so long, it is commonly brought into the market at three
years old. ‘The leg and the loin are the superior joints; and
the preference would probably be given more frequently to the
latter, but for the superabundance of its fat, which renders it a
not very economical dish. The haunch consists of the leg and
the part of the loin adjoining it; the saddle, of the two loins
‘ together, or of the undivided back of the sheep: these last are
always roasted, and are served usually at good tables, or for
company-dinners instead of the smaller joints. The shoulder,
dressed in the ordinary way, is not very highly esteemed, but
when boned, rolled, and filled with forcemeat, it is of more
presentable appearance, and to many tastes, far better eating;
shough some persons prefer it in its natural form, accompanied.
by stewed onions. It is occasionally boiled or stewed, and

222 MODERN COOKERY. - FOHAP. Xe

covered with rich onion sauce. The neck is sometimes roasted,
but it is more generally boiled; the scrag, or that part of it
which joins the head, is seldom used for any other purpose than
making broth, and should be taken off before the joint is dressed.
Cutlets from the thick end of the loin are commonly preferred
to any others, but they are frequently taken likewise from the
best end of the neck (sometimes called the back-ribs) and from
the middle of the leg. Mutton kidneys are dressed in various
ways, and are excellent in many. The trotters and the head of
a sheep may be converted into very good dishes, but they are
scarcely worth the trouble which is required to render them
palatable. The loin and the leg are occasionally cured and
smoked like hams or bacon.

TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

This joint should be well kept, and when the larder-accom-
modations of a house are not good, the butcher should be re-
quested to hang it the proper time. Roast it carefully at a
large sound fire, and let it remain at a considerable distance for
at least a couple of hours; then draw it nearer, but never suf-
ficiently so to burn or injure the fat. Keep it constantly basted ;
flour it soon after it is laid to the fire, instead of frothing it, as
this latter mode is not generally relished, though fashion is in
its favour. In from three and a half to four hours, the haunch
will be done, and it will require something less of time when
not kept back at first, as we have advised; but if roasted en-
tirely on the plan mentioned at page 157 it will be much finer
than in the usual way. Serve it with a good Espagnole, or with
plain mutton-gravy and currant-jelly. This joint, when the
meat is of very fine quality, may be dressed and served exactly
like venison.

33 to 4 hours. 5 hours or more by the slow method.

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.

This is an excellent joint, though not considered a very eco-
nomical one. It is usual for the butcher to raise the skin from .
it before it is sent in, and to skewer it on again, that in the
roasting the juices of the meat may be better preserved, and
the fat prevented from taking too much colour, as this should
be only slightly browned. In something less than half an hour
before the mutton is done, remove the skin, and flour the joint
lightly after having basted it well. Our own great objection
to frothed meat would lead us to recommend that the skin
should be taken off half an hour earlier, and that the joint

CHAP. xX.] MUTTON. 223

should be kept at sufficient distance from the fire to prevent the
possibility of the fat being burned ; and that something more of
time should be allowed for the roasting. With constant basting,
great care, and good management, the cook may always ensure
the proper appearance of this, or of any other joint (except,
perhaps, of a haunch of venison) without having recourse to
papering or pasting, or even to replacing the skin; but when
unremitted attention cannot be given to this one part of the
dinner, it is advisable to take all precautions that can secure it
from being spoiled.
23 to 2? hours. More if very large.

TO ROAST A LEG OF MUTTON.

In a cool and airy larder a leg of mutton will hang many
days with advantage, if the kernel be taken out, and the flap
wiped very dry when it is first brought in; and it is never
tender when freshly killed: in warm weather it should be well
dredged with pepper to preserve it from the flies. If washed
before it is put upon the spit, it should be wiped as dry as pos-
sible afterwards, and well floured soon after it is laid to the fire.
When the excellence of the joint is more regarded than the ex-
pense of fuel, it should be roasted by what we have denomi-
nated the slow method; that is to say, it should be kept at a
considerable distance from the fire, and remain at it four hours
instead of two: it may be drawn nearer for the last twenty or
thirty minutes to give it colour. The gravy will flow from it
in great abundance when it is cut, and the meat will be very
superior to that roasted in the usual way. When this plan is
not pursued, the mutton should still be kept quite a foot from
the fire until it is heated through, and never brought suffi-
ciently near to scorch or to harden any part.. It should be
constantly basted with its own fat, for if this be neglected, all
other precautions will fail to ensure a good roast; and after it .
is dished a little fine salt should be sprinkled lightly on it, and
a spoonful or two of boiling water laded over. ‘This is the most
palatable mode of serving it, but it may be frothed when it is
preferred so, though we would rather recommend that the flour
should be dredged on in the first instance, as it then prevents
the juices of the meat from escaping, and forms a savoury coat-
ing to it ; while the raw taste which it so often retains with
. mere frothing is to many eaters especially objectionable.

Leg of mutton, 7 to 8 lbs.; slow method 4 hours, common
method 12 to 2 hours.

ne a

224 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X.

SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

’ Cover the joint well with cold water, bring it gradually to —

boil, and let it simmer gently for half an hour ; then lift it out,
put it immediately on to the spit, and roast it from an hour and
a quarter to an hour and a half, according to its weight. ‘This
mode of dressing the joint renders it remarkably juicy and ten-
der; but there must be no delay in putting it on the spit after
it is lifted from the water. A mild ragout of garlic (see page
122,) may be served in the dish with it, or it may be garnished
with roast tomatas.
Boiled, 4 hour ; roast, 14 to 14 hour.

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.

Take out the bone as far as the first joint by the directions
of the following receipt, roll some large strips of bacon ina
seasoning of mixed spice, and of savoury. herbs minced extremely
fine, or dried and reduced to powder, and with these lard the
inside of the boned portion of the joint; or fill the cavity with
forcemeat highly seasoned with eschalot or garlic. Sew up the
meat, and place it in a braising-pan, or ham-kettle nearly of its
‘size, with slices of bacon under and over it, two or three onions,
\ four or five carrots, two bay leaves, a large bunch of savoury
herbs, a few bones, or bits of undressed mutton or veal, and
about three quarters of a pint of gravy. Stew the meat as
softly as possible from four to five hours, and keep live embers
on the top of the pan (or, as this mode of cooking is not general
in England, set the mutton, if it can be done conveniently, into
a moderately-heated oven, after having luted the edges of the
vessel in which it is arranged, with a bit of coarse paste); lift-it
cut, strain the gravy, reduce it quickly to glaze, and brush the
meat with it; or merely strain, free it from fat, and pour it over
the mutton. White beans (haricots blanes), boiled tender and
well drained, or a mild ragout of garlic or eschalots, may be
laid in the dish under it. The joint can be braised equally well
without any part of it being boned.

4 to 5 hours.

LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND FORCED.

Turn the underside of the mutton upwards, and with a sharp
knife cut through the middle of the skin from the knuckle to

the first joimt, and raise it from the flesh on the side along which ~

the bone runs, until the knife is just above it, then cut through
the flesh down to the bone; work the knife round it in every

CHAP. x. | MUTTON. 225

part till you reach the socket; next remove the flat bone from
the large end of the joint, and pass the knife freely round
the remaining one, as it is not needful to take it out clear of the
meat ; when you again reach the middle joint, loosen the skiu
round it with great care, and the two bones can then be drawn
out without being divided. This being done, fill the cavities
with the forcemeat, No. 1. (page 143), adding to it a somewhat
high seasoning of eschalot, garlic, or onion ; or cut out with the
bone, nearly a pound of the inside of the mutton, chop it fine
with six ounces of delicate striped bacon, and mix with it tho-
roughly three quarters of an ounce of parsley, and half as much
of thyme and winter savory, all minced extremely small ; a half
teaspoonful of pepper (or a third as much of cayenne) ; the same
of mace, salt, and nutmeg, and either the grated rind of a small
lemon, or four eschalots finely shred. When the lower part of
the leg is filled, sew the skin neatly together where it has been
cut open, and tie the knuckle round tightly, to prevent the
escape of the gravy. Replace the flat bone at the large end, and »
with a long needle and twine, draw the edges of the meat to-
gether over it. If it can be done conveniently, it is better to
roast the mutton thus prepared in a cradle spit. or upon a
hanging or bottle-jack, with the knuckle downwards. Place it
at first far from the fire, and keep it constantly basted. It will
require nearly or quite three hours roasting. Remove the twine
before it is served, and send it very hot to table with some rich
brown gravy. :

MOCK VENISON.

Hang a plump and finely-grained leg of mutton in a cool
place, for as many days as it can possibly be kept without
becoming altogether uneatable. Lay it on a dish, pour over,
and rub well into it, about half a small cupful of pyroligneous
acid, and let it remain ten minutes. Wash it very thoroughly,
cut off the knuckle, and trim away the flap, and any part that
may continue very offensive, or take a few inches from either
end of the joint; then lay it into a close-shutting stewpot, or
thick iron saucepan of its own size, with no other liquid than
the drops of water which adhere to it, and simmer it over a very
slow fire, from four and a half to five hours, turning it several
times, that it may be equally done. Give it no seasoning beyond
pepper and salt. Should the gravy be too much reduced, add
‘two spoonsful of boiling water, or of mutton gravy. Send the
meat to table in its own juices, with currant jelly, or sharp veni-
son sauce apart. We owe this receipt entirely to accident; for,

“eines ae

a
;

226 MODERN COOKERY. [oHar. x.
wishing to have proof of the anti-putrescent qualities of fed
Rae acid, we had it applied to a leg of mutton which —

ad been too long kept, and which was dressed in the way we have
described. When brought to table, its resemblance to venison, —
both in appearance and flavour, was remarkable; and several
persons partook of it hashed on the following day, and were all —
perfectly unconscious that they were-not really eating venison ;
in the latter instance, it was served in rich gravy made in part —
of hare; a glass of port wine, a little compound catsup, and a —
thickening of rice flour were added. The meat, of course, was
only heated through, and not allowed to boil. On a second
trial we found it an improvement to touch the mutton in every
part with a feather dipped in the acid, as soon as it gave evi-
dence of having been sufficiently kept, and then to let it hang
three or four days longer: it was again washed with the acid,
and afterwards with cold water before it was dressed.

TO BOIL A LEG OF MUTTON.
(An excellent Receipt.)

Trim into handsome form a well-kept, but perfectly sweet leg
of mutton, of middling weight ; wash, but do not soak it; lay it
into a vessel as nearly of its size as convenient, and pour in rather
more than sufficient cold water to cover it; set it over a good
fire, and when it begins to boil, take off the scum, and continue
to do so until no more appears; throw in a tablespoonful of salt
(after the first skimming), which will assist to bring it to the
surface, and as soon as the liquor is clear, add two moderate-sized
onions, stuck with a dozen cloves, a large faggot of parsley,
thyme, and savoury, and four or five large carrots, and half an_
hour afterwards, as many turnips. Draw the pan to the side of
the fire, and let the mutton-be simmered gently for two hours
and a half, from the time of its first beginning to boil. Serve
it with caper, brown cucumber, or oyster, sauce. If stewed
softly, as we have directed, the mutton will be found excellent
dressed thus; otherwise, it will but resemble the unpalatable and
ragged-looking joints of fast-boiled meat, so constantly sent to
table by common English cooks. Any undressed bones of veal,
mutton, or beef, boiled with the joint, will improve it much, and
the liquor will then make excellent soup or bouillon.

2 to 23 hours.

COLD ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

When only a few slices have been cut from the middle of the -
joint, it will still afford a fillet of tolerable size, which, dressed

CHAP. X. ] MUTTON. 227

in the following manner, will make a dish of better appearance
and savour than a common hash or mince. Take off as much
of the large end of the leg, quite through, as will render that
side of the fillet perfectly flat; cut also evenly through the
joint, where it has been carved ; then remove the bone from the
fillet, and replace it with veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 143); put
the meat, with the bones, knuckle, and trimmings, into a stew-
pot, or stout saucepan adapted to its size, and just cover it with
water, or with broth in preference, when any stock is at hand ;
as soon as it boils, add a couple of onions, a bunch of parsley,
two or even three bay leaves, four or five carrots, and as many
turnips (plenty of vegetables, in fact), and simmer the whole
gently for nearly, or quite a couple of hours. Thickening,
spice, or store-sauce, can be added to the gravy at will, before
the meat is served, which it should be with the vegetables
round it.

A FILLET OF MUTTON.

Cut some inches from either end of a large and well-kept leg
of mutton, and leave the fillet shaped like one of veal. Remove
the bone, and fill the cavity with forcemeat (No. 1, page 148),
which may be flavoured with a little minced eschalot, when its
flavour is liked: more forcemeat may be added by detaching the
skin sufficiently on the flap side to admit it. When thus prepared,
the fillet may be floured, and roasted, served with currant-jelly
and brown gravy, or with only melted butter poured over it ; or
it may be stewed gently for nearly or quite four hours, in a pint
of gravy or water, after having been floured and browned all over
in a couple of ounces of butter ; it must then be turned every hour
that it may be equally done. ‘Two or three small onions, a
faggot of herbs, a couple of carrots sliced, four or five cloves,
and twenty whole peppercorns can be added at will.

Roasted 2 hours, or stewed 4 hours.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF MUTTON.

The flesh of the loin of mutton is superior to that of the leg,
when roasted ; but to the frugal housekeeper this consideration
is usually overbalanced by the great weight of fat attached to
it; this, however, when economy is more considered than ap-
pearance, may be pared off and melted down for various kitchen
uses, or finely chopped, and substituted for suet in making hot
pie or pudding crust. When thus reduced in size, the mutton
will be soon roasted. If it is to be dressed in the usual way, the

228 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. x.

butcher should be desired to take off the skin; care should be
taken to preserve the fat from being ever so slightly burned ; it
should be managed, indeed, in the same manner as the saddle,
in every respect, and carved also in the same way, that is to say,
the meat should be cut out in slices the whole length of the
back-bone, and close to it.

Without the fat, i to 14 hour ; with 14 to 12 hour.

TO DRESS A LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON.

Skin and bone a loin of mutton, and lay it into a stewpan, or
braising-pan, with a pint of water, a large onion stuck with a
dozen cloves, half a pint of port wine and a spoonful of vine-
gar; add, when it boils, a smali faggot of thyme and parsley,
and some pepper and salt: let it stew three hours, and turn it
often. Make some gravy of the bones, and add it at intervals
to the mutton when required.

This receipt comes to us so strongly recommended by persons
who have partaken frequently of the dish, that we have not
thought it needful to prove it ourselves.

3 hours.

TO ROAST A SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

Flour it well, and baste it constantly with its own dripping ;
do not place it close enough to the fire for the fat to be in the
slightest degree burned, or even too deeply browned. An hour
and a half will roast it, if it be of moderate size. Stewed onions
are often sent to table with it. A shoulder of mutton is some-.
times boiled, and smothered with onion sauce.

13 hour,

SPICED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

Bone the joint, and rub it, if large, with four ounces of the
coarsest-sugar (or with three, if it be small), well mixed with a
dessertspoonful of pounded cloves, half that quantity of pepper
and of mace, and a fourth part as much of ginger: the following
day add four ounces of salt. Keep the mutton turned, and
rubbed occasionally with the pickle from eight to ten days;
then roJl it up tight, bind it with a fillet, and stew it gently for
four hours in a pint and a half of beef broth, or put into the
stewpan with it a pound and a half of neck of beef, three half
pints of water, one large mild onion, two carrots, two turnips,
and a large faggot of herbs. When the mutton is perfectly
tender, serve it with some of its own gravy, thickened and
highly flavoured with lemon-pickle, or with any other acid
sauce; or send it to table with a good sauce piquante.

CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 229°

Mutton, 8 to 9 lbs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; cloves, in powder, 1 des-
sertspoonful; mace, and pepper, 1 teaspoonful each; ginger, }
teaspoonful; salt, 4 ozs.: 8 to 10 days. Beef broth, 14 pint:
4 hours.

Obs.—For variety, the inside of the mutton may be thickly
strewed with minced herbs before it is rolled.

FORCED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

Cut off all the flesh from the inside of the joint down to the
blade-bone, and reserve it for a separate dish. It may be lightly
browned with some turnips or carrots, or both, and made into a
small harrico, or stewed simply in its own gravy, or it will
make in part, a pudding or a pie. Bone the mutton (see page
167), flatten it on a table, lay over the inside some thin and
neatly-trimmed slices of striped bacon, and spread over them
some good veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 143) to within an inch
of the outer edge; roll the joint up tightly towards the knuckle
(of which the bone may be left in or not, at pleasure), secure it
well with tape or twine, and stew it gently in good gravy, from
four hours to four and a half.

4 to 44 hours.

Obs.—In France it is usual to substitute sausage-meat for the
bacon and veal stuffing in this dish.

MUTTON CUTLETS STEWED IN THEIR OWN GRAVY.
(Good.)

Trim the fat entirely from some cutlets taken from the loin;
just dip them into cold water, dredge them moderately with pep-
per, and plentifully, on both sides with flour; rinse a thick iron
saucepan.with spring water, and leave a couple of tablespoonsful
in it; arrange the cutlets in one flat layer, if it can be done con-
veniently, and place them over a very gentle fire ; throw in a little
salt when they begin to stew, and let them simmer as softly as
Sage but without ceasing, from an hour and a quarter to an
hour and a half. If dressed with great care, which they require,
they will be equally tender, easy of digestion, and nutritious ; and
being at the same time free from everything which can disagree
with the most delicate stomach, the receipt will be found a
valuable one for invalids. The mutton should be of good
quality, but the excellence of the dish mainly depends on its
being most gently stewed; for if allowed to boil quickly all
the gravy will be dried up, and the meat will be unfit for table.
The cutlets must be turned when they are half done: a couple

230 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X.

of spoonsful of water or gravy may be added to them should
they not yield sufficient moisture, but this is rarely needful.
13 to 13 hour.

TO BROIL MUTTON CUTLETS. (ENTREE.)

These may be taken from the loin, or the best end of the
neck, but the former are generally preferred. Trim off a
portion of the fat, or the whole of it, unless it be liked ; pepper
' the cutlets, heat the gridiron, rub it with a bit of the mutton
suet, broil them over a brisk fire, and turn them often until they
are done; this, for the generality of eaters, will be in about
eight minutes if they are not more than half an inch thick,
which they should not be. French cooks season them with
‘ pepper and salt, and give them a light coating of dissolved
butter or of oil, before they are laid to the fire, and we have
found the cutlets so managed extremely good.

Lightly broiled, 7 to 8 minutes. Well done, 10 minutes.

Obs.—A. cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce may be laid under the
cutlets when they are dished; or they may be served quite dry,
or with brown gravy; or when none is at hand, with good
melted butter seasoned with mushroom catsup, cayenne, and
Chili vinegar, or lemon-juice.

CHINA CHILO.

Mince a pound of an undressed loin or leg of mutton,
with or without a portion of its fat, mix with it two or
three young lettuces shred small, a pint of young peas, a
teaspoonful of salt, half as much pepper, four tablespoons-
ful of water, from two to three ounces of good butter, and,
if the flavour be liked, a few green onions minced. Keep the
whole well stirred with a fork, over a clear and gentle fire until
it is quite hot, then place it closely covered by the side of the
stove, or on a high trevet, that it may stew as softly as possible
for a couple of hours. One or even two half-grown cucumbers,
cut small by scoring the ends deeply as they are sliced, or a
quarter-pint of minced mushrooms may be added with good
effect; or a dessertspoonful of currie-powder and a large
chopped onion. A dish of boiled rice should be sent to table
with it.

Mutton, 1 pint; green peas, 1 pint; young lettuces, 2; salt,
1 teaspoonful; pepper, 3 teaspoonful; water, 4 tablespoonsful ;
butter, 2 to 3 ozs.: 2 hours. Varieties: cucumbers, 2; or
mushrooms minced, } pint; or currie-powder, 1 dessertspoonful,
and 1 large onion.

CHAP. X.] “MUTTON. 231

A GOOD FAMILY STEW OF MUTTON.

Put into a broad stewpan or saucepan, a flat layer of mutton
chops, freed entirely from fat and from the greater portion of
the bone, then just dipped into cold water, seasoned with pepper,
and lightly dredged with flour; on these put a layer of mild
turnips sliced half an inch thick, and divided into squares; then
some carrots of the same thickness, with a seasoning of salt and
black pepper between them ; next, another layer of chops, then
plenty of vegetables, and as much weak broth or cold water as
will barely cover the whole; bring them slowly to a boil, and
let them just simmer from two to three hours, according to the
quantity. One or two minced onions may be strewed between
the other vegetables when their flavour is liked. The savour of
the dish will be increased by browning the chops in a little
butter before they are stewed, and still more so by frying the
vegetables lightly as well, before they are added to it. A head
or two of celery would to many tastes improve the flavour of the
whole. In summer, cucumber, green onions, shred lettuces, and
green peas may be substituted for the winter vegetables.

Mutton, free from fat, 23 lbs.; turnips, 3 lbs.; carrots, 3 lbs. ;
celery (if added), 2 small heads: 2 to 3 hours.

Obs.—The fat and trimmings of the mutton used for this and
for other dishes into which only the lean is admissible, may be
turned to advantage by cutting the whole up rather small, and

‘then boiling it in a quart of water to the pound, with a little
spice, a bunch of herbs and some salt, until the fat is nearly
dissolved : the liquid will then, if strained off and left until cold,
make tolerable broth, and the cake of fat which is on the top,
if again just melted and poured free of sediment into small

ans, will serve excellently for common pies and for frying

itchen dinners. Less water will of course produce broth of
better quality, and the addition of a small quantity of fresh
meat or bones will render it very good.

AN IRISH STEW.

Take a couple of pounds of small thick mutton cutlets with
or without fat according to the taste of the persons to whom
the stew is to be served; take also four pounds of good pota-
toes, weighed after they are pared, slice them thick, and put a
portion of them in a flat layer, into a large thick saucepan or
stewpan; season the mutton well with pepper, and place some
~ of it on the potatoes, cover it with another layer, and proceed
in the same manner with all, reserving plenty of the vegetable

232 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaAP. x.

for the top; pour in three quarters of a pint of cold water, and
add, when the stew begins to boil, an ounce of salt; let it
simmer gently for two hours, and serve it very hot. When the
addition of onion is liked, strew in two or three minced ones
with the potatoes.
- Mutton cutlets, 2 Ibs.; potatoes, 4 lbs.; pepper, } 0z.; salt,
1 oz. ; water, ? pint: 2 hours.
Obs.—For a real Irish stew the potatoes should be boiled to

amash : an additional quarter-hour may be necessary for the full
quantity here, but for half of it two hours are quite sufficient.

CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON.

Trim into weli-shaped cutlets, which should not be very
thin, the remains of a roast loin or neck of mutton, or of a
quite under-dressed stewed or boiled joint; dip them into egg
and well seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil or fry them over a
quick fire that they may be browned and heated through with-
out being too much done. This is a very good mode of serv-
ing a half roasted loin or neck. When the cutlets are broiled
they should be dipped into, or sprinkled thickly with butter
just dissolved, or they will be exceedingly dry; afew additional
crumbs should be made to adhere to them after they are mois-
tened with this.

MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA FRANGAISE. (ENTREE.)

Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and without
opening them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew
over them a large dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two
thirds should be parsley and the remainder thyme, with a tole-
rable seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and some fine salt. Melt
two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, put in the kidneys and
brown them quickly on both sides; when nearly done, stir
amongst them a dessertspoonful of flour and shake them well
in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of gravy (or of hot water
in default of this), the juice of half a lemon, and as much of
Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will flavour the whole
pleasantly ; bring these to the point of boiling, and pour them into
a dish garnished with fried sippets, or lift out the kidneys first,
give the sauce a boil and pourit onthem. We generally have the
store-sauce of page 177 (see English stew) used to flavour this
dish in preference to simple catsup. In France, a couple of
glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, are frequently
added to the gravy; one of port wine can be substituted

CHAP. X. |] LAMB. 233

for either of these. A dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may
be strewed over the kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of
very small ones, previously stewed till tender in fresh butter
over a gentle fire, may be added after they are dished. This is
a very excellent and approved receipt.

Fried 6 minutes.

BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS.

Split them open lengthwise without dividing them; strip off
the skin and fat; run a fine skewer through the points and
across the back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling ;
season them with pepper or cayenne; lay them over a clear
brisk fire, with the cut sides towards it; turn them in from four
to five minutes; and in as many more dish, and serve them
quickly, with or without a cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce under
them. Erench cooxs season them with pepper and fine salt,
and brush a very small quantity of oil, or clarified butter over
them before they are broiled: we think this an improvement.

8 to 10 minutes.

OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS. (BREAKFAST DISH,
OR ENTREE.)

Fry gently, in a little good butter, a dozen crotitons (slices of
bread, of uniform shape and size, trimmed free from crust), cut
half an inch thick, about two inches and a half wide, and from
three to four in length: lift them out and keep them hot.
Split quite asunder six fine fresh kidneys, after having freed
them from the skin and fat; season them with fine salt and
cayenne; arrange them evenly in a clean frying-pan, and pour
some clarified butter over them. Fry them over a somewhat
brisk fire; dish each half upon a crotiton; make a sauce in the
pan as for veal cutlets, but use gravy for it instead of water,
should it be at hand; add a little wine or catsup; pour it round
the crotitons, and serve the kidneys instantly.

10 minutes.

TO ROAST A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB.

This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and
plentifully basted from the time of its becoming warm until it
is ready for table; but though it requires quick roasting, it must
never be placed sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat,
which is very liable to catch or burn. When the joint is served,
the shoulder should be separated from the ribs with a sharp knife,
and a small slice of fresh butter, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of

284 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X.*

lemon juice should be laid between them ; ifthe cook be an expert
carver, this had better be done betore the lamb is sent to table.
The cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce of page 107, may be substituted
for the usual ingredients, the parsley being omitted or not, ac-
cording to the taste. Serve good mint sauce, and a fresh salad.
with this roast.

A leg, shoulder, or loin of lamb should be cooked by the
same directions as the quarter, a difference only being made in
the time allowed fur each.

Fore quarter of lamb, 13 to 2 hours. Leg, 14 hour (less if
very small) ; loin, 1 to 13 hour.

Obs.—The time will vary a little, of course, from the diffe-
rence in the weather, and in the strength of the fire. Lamb
should always be well roasted.

.SADDLE OF LAMB.

This is an exceedingly nice joint for a small party. It should
be roasted at a brisk fire, and kept constantly basted with its
own dripping: it will require from an hour and three quarters
to two hours roasting. Send it to table with mint sauce, and if
convenient, with brown cucumber sauce also, and a salad.

12 to 2 hours.

Obs.—The following will be found an excellent receipt for
mint sauce: — With three heaped tablespoonsful of finely-
chopped young mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and
six of the best vinegar : stir it until the sugar is dissolved.

ROAST LOIN OF LAMB.

Place it at a moderate distance from a clear fire, baste it fre-
quently, froth it when nearly done, and serve it with the same
sauces as the preceding joints. A loin of lamb may be boiled
and sent to table with white cucumber, mushroom, common.
white sauce, or parsley and butter.

1 to 12 hour. ;

STEWED LEG OF LAMB WITH WHITE SAUCE. (ENTREE.)

Choose a small plump leg of lamb, not much exceeding five
pounds in weight ; put it into a vessel nearly of its size, with a few
trimmings, or a bone or two of undressed veal if at hand; cover
it with cold water, bring it slowly to a boil, clear off the scum
with great. care when it is first thrown to the surface, and when
it has all been skimmed off, add a bunch of thyme and parsley,
and two carrots of moderate size. Let the lamb simmer only,
but without ceasing, for an hour and a quarter; serve it covered

CHAP. X.] . LAMB. 3 235

with béchamel, or rich English white sauce, and send a boiled
tongue to table with it, and some of the sauce in a tureen.
14 hour.

LOIN OF LAMB STEWED IN BUTTER. (ENTREE.)

Wash the joint, and wipe it very dry; skewer down the flap,
and lay it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan, or saucepan,
in which three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved,
but not allowed to boil ; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle

_. fire for two hours and a quarter, and turn it when it is rather

more than half done. Lift it out, skim and pour the gravy
over it; send brown asparagus, cucumber, or soubise sauce to
table with it; or brown gravy, mint sauce, and a salad.

21 hours.

LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SOUBISE SAUCE. (ENTREE.) .

The best end of two necks of either will be required for a
handsome dish. Cut them thin with one bone to each ; trim off
the fat and all the skin, scrape’ the bones very clean that they
may look white, and season the cutlets with salt and white
pepper; brush them with egg, dip them into very fine bread-
crumbs, then into clarified butter, and again into the bread-
crumbs, which should be flattened evenly upon them, and broil
them over a very clear and brisk fire, or fry them in a
little good butter of a fine clear brown; press them in two
sheets of white blotting paper to extract the grease, and dish
them an end, with the points meeting at the top; or place them
one over the other in a chain, and pour into the centre a sou-
bise, or a purée of cucumbers. Brown cucumber sauce, or a
rich gravy, may be substituted for either of these in serving a
quite simple dinner. Cutlets of the loin may be dressed in the
same way, after being dipped into crumbs of bread mixed with
a full seasoning of minced herbs, and a small quantity of
eschalot, when its flavour is liked. The small flat bone at the
end of the cutlets should be taken off, to give them a very good
appearance.

LAMB CUTLETS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY.

Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the
same way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes
less of time, and an additional spoonful of liquid.

CUTLETS OF COLD LAMBe
See the receipt for Cutlets of Cold Mutton, page 232,

ro
(oe)
or)

MODERN COOKERY. _ [cHar XI.

CHAPTER XL

PORK.

No. No.
1. The Spare Rib. 4. Fore Loin.

2. Hand. 5. Hind Loin.
8. Belly, or Spring. 6. Leg.

TO CHOOSE PORK.

Tus meat is so proverbially, and we believe even dangerously
unwholesome when ill fed, or in any degree diseased, that its
quality should be closely examined before it is purchased. When
not home-fatted, it should be bought if possible of some respect-
able farmer, or miller, unless the butcher who supplies it can
be perfectly relied on. Both the fat and lean should be very
white, and the latter finely grained; the rind should be thin,
smooth, and cool to the touch; if it be clammy, the pork is
stale, and should be at once rejected ; it ought also to be scru-
' pulously avoided when the fat, instead of being quite clear of
all blemish, is full of small kernels, which are indicative of
disease. ‘The manner of cutting up the pork varies im different
counties, and also according to the purposes for which it is
intended. ‘The legs are either made into hams, or slightly
salted for a few days and boiled; they are also sometimes roasted
when the pork is not large nor coarse, with a savoury forcemeat
inserted between the skin and flesh of the knuckle. The part
of the shoulder called the hand is also occasionally pickled in
the same way as hams and bacon, or it may be salted and boiled,
but it is too sinewy for roasting. After these and the head have
been taken off, the remainder, without further division than
being split down the back, may be converted into whole sides,

CHAP, XI.’} PORK. Boe 237

or flitches, as they are usually called, of bacon; but when the
_ meat is large, and required in part for various other purposes, a
chine may be taken out, and the fat pared off the bones of the
ribs and loins for bacon; the thin part of the body converted
into pickled pork, and the ribs and other bones roasted, or made
into pies or sausages. ‘The feet, which are generally salted down
for immediate use, are excellent if laid for two or three weeks
into the same pickle as the hams, then well covered with cold
water, and slowly boiled until tender.

The loins of young and delicate pork are roasted with the
skin on; and this is scored in regular stripes of about a quarter-
inch wide with the point of a sharp knife, before the joints are
laid to the fire. The skin of the leg also is just cut through in
the same manner. This is done to prevent its blistering, and to
render it more easy to carve, as the skin (or crackling) becomes.
so crisp and hard in the cooking, that it is otherwise sometimes
difficult to divide it.

To be at any time fit for table, pork must be perfectly sweet,
and thoroughly cooked; great attention also should be given
to it when it is in pickle, for if any part of it be long exposed to
the air, without being turned into, or well and frequently basted
with the brine, it will often become tainted during the process
of curing it.

TO MELT LARD.

Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-
fed pig; slice it small and thin; put it into a new or well-scalded
jar, set it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a
clear fire. As it dissolves, strain it into small stone jars, or deep
earthen pans, and when perfectly cold, tie over it the skin that
was cleared from the lard, or bladders which have been thoroughly
washed and wiped very dry. Lard thus prepared is extremely
pure in flavour, and keeps perfectly well, if stored in a cool
. place ; it may be used with advantage in making pastry, as well
as for frying fish, and for various other purposes. It is better to
keep the last drainings of the fat apart from that which is first
poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in quality.

TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTHS.

For the particular uses to which the leaf-fat, or fleed, can be
advantageously applied, see fleed-crust, Chapter XVI. It may
be kept well during the summer months by rubbing fine salt
rather plentifully upon it when it is first taken from the pig,
and leaving it for a couple of days; it should then be welk
drained, and covered with a strong brine: this, in warmer

238 MODERN COOKERY.

weather, should be changed occasionally. When wanted fore :

use, lay it into cold water for two or three hours, then wipe it
dry, and it will have quite the effect of the fresh leaf when made.
into paste.

Inner fat of pig, 6 lbs.; fine salt, } to 3 lb: 2 days. ‘Brine; to
each quart of water, 6 ozs. salt.

TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG.

After the pig has
been scalded and pre-
pared for the spit,
wipe it as dry as pos-
sible, and put into
the body about half
a pint of fine bread-
crumbs, mixed with
three heaped tea-
spoonsful of sage,
minced very small, three ounces of good butter, a large saltspoon-
ful of salt, and two thirds as much of pepper, or some cayenne.
Sew it up with soft, but strong cotton, truss it as a hare, with
the fore legs skewered back, and the hind ones forward; lay it
to a strong, clear fire, but keep it at a moderate distance, as it
would quickly blister or scorch, if placed too near. So soon as
it has become warm, rub it with a bit of butter, tied in a fold of
muslin, or of thin cloth, and repeat this process constantly while
it is roasting. When the gravy begins to drop from it, put
basins, or small deep tureens under, to catch it in. As soon as
the pig is of a fine light amber brown, and the steam draws
strongly towards the fire, wipe it quite with a clean cloth,
and rub a bit of cold butter over it. When it is half done, a
pig iron, or in lieu of this, a large flat iron should be hung in
the centre of the grate, or the middle of the pig will be done
long before the ends. When it is ready for table, lay it into a
very hot dish, and before the spit is withdrawn, take off and
open the head, and split the body in two; chop together quickly
the stuffing and the brains, put them into half a pint of good
veal gravy, ready thickened, add a glass of Madeira or of
sherry, and the gravy which has dropped from the pig ; pour a
small portion of this under the meat, and serve the remainder
as hot as possible in a tureen; a little pounded mace and
cayenne, with a squeeze of lemon-juice, may be added, should
the flavour require heightening. Fine bread sauce, and
plain gravy should likewise be served with it. Some persons

CHAP. XI. ] PORK. 239

‘still prefer the old-fashioned currant sauce to any other; and
~many have the brains and stuffing stirred into rich melted but-
ter, stead of gravy ; but the receipt which we have given has
usually been so much approved, that we can recommend it with
some confidence, as it stands. Modern taste would perhaps be
rather in favour of rich brown gravy and thick tomata sauce, or
sauce Poivrade.

_ In dishing the pig, lay the body flat in the middle, and the
head and ears at the ends and sides. When very pure oil can
be obtained, it is preferable to butter for the basting : it should
be laid on with a bunch of feathers. A suckling of three weeks
old is considered as best suited to the spit; and it should always
be dressed, if possible, the day it is killed.

11 to 13 hour.

BAKED PIG.

Prepare the pig exactly as for roasting, truss, and place it in
the dish in which it is to be sent to the oven, and anoint it
thickly in every part with white of egg which has been slightly
beaten: it will require no basting, nor further attention of any
kind, and will be well crisped by this process.

PIG A LA TARTARE.

When the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire, take
them off with care, remove the skin, trim them into good form,
dip them into clarified butter or very pure salad oil, then into
fine crumbs highly seasoned with cayenne and mixed with about
a half-teaspoonful of salt. Broil them over a clear brisk fire,
and send them quickly to table, as soon as they are heated
through and equally browned, with tomata sauce, or sauce
Robert. Curried crumbs and a currie-sauce will give an ex-
cellent variety of this dish; and savoury herbs, with two or
three eschalots chopped small together and mixed with the
bread-crumbs, and brown eschalot sauce to accompany the
broil, will likewise be an acceptable one to many tastes.

SUCKING PIG EN BLANQUETTE. (ENTREE.)

Raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig, free it from
the crisp outer skin or crackling, and cut it down into small
handsome slices. Dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg,
and, if they can be easily procured, throw in a handful of button-
mushrooms, cleaned and sliced; shake these over the fire for
three or four minutes, then stir to them a dessertspoonful of
flour, and continue to shake or toss them gently, but do not

240 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI.

allow them to brown. Add a small bunch of parsley, a bay-
leaf, a middling-sized blade of mace, some salt, a small quantity
of cayenne or white pepper, half a pint of good veal or beef
broth, and from two to three glasses of light white wine. Let
these boil gently until reduced nearly one third; take out the
parsley and mace, lay in the meat, and bring it slowly to the
point of simmering; stir to it the beaten yolks of three fresh
eggs, and the strained juice of half a lemon. Serve the blan-
quette very hot.

TO ROAST PORK.

When the skin is left on the joint which is to be roasted, it
must be scored in narrow strips of equal width, before it is put to
the fire, and laid at a considerable distance from it at first, that
the meat may. be heated through before the skin hardens or
begins to brown; it must never stand still for an instant, and
the basting should be constant. Pork is not at the present day
much served at very good tables, particularly in this form; and
it is so still less with the old savoury stuffing of sage and onions,
though some eaters like it always with the leg: when it is
ordered for this joint, therefore, prepare it as directed for a
goose, at page 146, and after having loosened the skin from the
knuckle, insert as much as can well be secured init. A little
clarified butter, or salad oil may be brushed over the skin quite
at first, particularly should the meat not be very fat, but unless
remarkably lean, it will speedily yield sufficient dripping to
baste it with. Joints from which the fat has been pared, will
require of course far less roasting than those on which the
crackling is retained. Brown gravy and apple or tomata sauce,
are the usual accompaniments to all roasts of pork, except a
sucking pig; they should always be thoroughly cooked.

Leg of pork of 8 lbs., 3 hours; loin of from 5 to 6 lbs.
with the skin on, 2 to 23 hours; spare-rib of 6 to 7 Ibs.,
12 hour.

TO ROAST A SADDLE OF PORK.

The skin of this joint may be removed entirely, but if left on
it must be scored lengthwise, or in the direction in which it will
be carved. The pork should be young, of fine quality, and of
moderate size. Roast it very carefully, either by the directions
given in the preceding receipt, or when the skin is taken off, by
those for a saddle of mutton, allowing in the latter case from
three quarters of an hour to a full hour more of the fire for it
in proportion to its weight. Serve it with good brown gravy

CHAP. 2) PORK. 241
and tomata sauce, or sauce Robert; or with apple sauce should
it be preferred.

20 minutes to the pound, quite.

TO BROIL OR FRY PORK CUTLETS.

Cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of
pork, trim them into neat form, and take off part of the fat, or
the whole of it when it is not liked; dredge a little pepper or
cayenne upon them, and broil them over a clear and moderate
fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes, sprinkle a little fine salt
upon them just before they are dished. They may be dipped
into egg and then into bread-crumbs mixed with minced sage,
then finished in the usual way. When fried, flour them well,
and season them with salt and pepper first. Serve them with
gravy made in the pan, or with sauce Robert.

'COBBETT’S RECEIPT FOR CURING BACON.
(Extracted from his “ Cottage Economy.”)

“ Allother parts being taken away, the two sides that remain,
and which are called flziches, are to be cured for bacon. They
are first rubbed with salt on their inside, or flesh sides, then
placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost in a salting
trough, which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the
brine; for to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not
be sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of taste that barrel-
pork and sea-junk have, and than which nothing is more
villainous, Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh
dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state. Therefore,
change the salt often ; once in four or five days. Let it melt
and sink in, but let it not lie too long. Change the flitches, put
that at bottom which was first on the top. Do this a couple of
times. This mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than
the sopping mode ; but without it your bacon will not be so
sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As to the time required for
making the flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances;
the thickness of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place
wherein the salting is going on. It takes a longer time for a
thick than for a thin flitch; it takes longer in dry than in
damp weather, it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place.
But for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very
dry or very damp, about six weeks may do; and as yours is to
be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give time
enough ; for you are to have bacon till Christmas comes again.
The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but

242 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. xt.

always admit of a free circulation of air; confined air, though
cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied
with a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two pre-
cautions are necessary: first to hang the flitches where no rain
comes down upon them, and next, that the smoke must proceed
from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the time that it
requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal upon
whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire
be large or small. A month will do if the fire be pretty
constant, and such as-a farm house fire usually is. But over-
smoking, or rather, too long hanging in the air, makes the
bacon rust. Great attention should, therefore, be paid to this
matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of
a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang
it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh-side pretty thickly
over with bran or with some fine saw-dust, not of deal or fir.
Rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it. This keeps
the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a
sort of crust to be dried on.

“To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers,
sift fine some clean and dry wood-ashes. Put some at the bottom
of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in
one flitch ; and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and
cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place
where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the
ashes become damp they should be put in the fire-place to
dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions
the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first
day.”

bs.—Although the preceding directions for curing the bacon
‘are a little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork,
we think those for its after-management will be acceptable to
many of our readers, as in our damp climate it is often a matter
of great difficulty to preserve hams and bacon through the year
from rust.

A GENUINE YORKSHIRE RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS AND
BACON.

“Let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours
before they are killed (and observe that neither a time of severe
frost, nor very damp weather is favourable for curing bacon).
After a pig has beer killed and scalded, let it hang twelve hours
before it is cut up, then for every stone, or fourteen pounds’
weight of the meat, take one pound of salt, an ounce and a

GHAP. x1:| PORK. 243

quarter of saltpetre, and half an ounce of coarse sugar. Rub
the sugar.and saltpetre first into the fleshy parts of the pork,
and remove carefully with a fork any extravasated blood that
may appear on it, together with the broken vessels adjoining ;
apply the salt especially to those parts, as well as to the shank-
ends of the hams, and any other portions of the flesh that are
more particularly exposed. Before the salt is added to the meat,
warm it a little before the fire, and use only a part of it in the
first instance; then, as it dissolves, or is absorbed by the meat,
add the remainder at several different times. Let the meat in
the mean while lie either on clean straw, or on a cold brick or
stone floor: it will require from a fortnight to three weeks’
curing, according to the state of the atmosphere. When done,
hang it in a cool dry place, where there is a thorough current
of air, and let it remain there until it is perfectly dry, when the
salt will be found to have crystallized upon the surface. The
meat may then be removed to your store, and kept in a close
chest, surrounded with clean outer straw. If very large, the
hams will not be in perfection in less than twelve months from
the time of their being stored.”

Pork, 20 stone; salt, 20 lbs.; saltpetre, 20 ozs.; sugar, 10
ozs.: 14 to 21 days. .

KENTISH MODE OF CUTTING UP AND CURING A PIG.

To a porker of sixteen stone Kentish weight, (that is to say,
eight pounds to the stone, or nine stone two pounds of common
weight), allow two gallons of salt, two pounds of saltpetre, one
pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds of bay-salt, well dried
and reduced to powder. Put aside the hams and cheeks to be
cured by themselves; let the feet, ears, tail, and eye-parts of
the head be salted for immediate eating. The blade-bones, and
ends of the loins and ribs reserved for sausage-meat should it be
wanted, and the loin and spare-ribs for roasting. Divide and
salt the remainder thus: Mix well together the saltpetre, sugar,
and bay-salt, and rub the pork gently with them in every part;
cover the bottom of the pickling tub with salt, and pack in the
pork as closely as possible, with a portion of the remaining salt
between each layer. <A very little water is sometimes sprinkled
in to facilitate the dissolving of the salt into a brine, but this is
better avoided, if possible, and in damp weather. will not be
needed. If in a fortnight it should not have risen, so as almost
entirely to cover the meat, boil a strong brine of salt, saltpetre,
sugar, and bay-salt; let it remain till perfectly cold, and then
pour it over the pork. A board, with a heavy stone weight

944 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. x1.

upon it, should be kept upon the meat, to force it down under
the brine. In from three to four months it will be fit for table,
and will be delicate and excellent pickled pork.

The pickling parts of a porker of sixteen stone (Kentish
weight, or nine stone two pounds of common weight, or fourteen
pounds to the stone); common salt, 2 gallons; saltpetre, 2 Ibs. ;
coarse sugar, 1 lb.; bay-salt, 2 Ibs. :

FRENCH BACON FOR LARDING.

Cut the bacon from the pig with as little lean to it as possible.
Rub it well in every part, with salt which has been dried,
reduced to powder, and sifted; put the layers of bacon close
against and upon each other, in a shallow wooden trough, and
set in a cool, but not a damp cellar; add more salt all round
the bacon, and lay a board, with a very heavy weight upon it.
Let it remain for six weeks, then hang it up in a dry and airy:

lace.

Pork, 14 Ibs.; salt, 14 ozs.: 6 weeks.

TO PICKLE CHEEKS OF BACON AND HAMS.

One pound of common salt, one pound of the coarsest sugar,
and one ounce of saltpetre, in fine powder, to each stone (fourteen
pounds) of the meat will answer this purpose extremely well.
' An ounce of black pepper can be added, if liked, and when less
sugar is preferred, the proportion can be diminished one half,
and the quantity of salt as much increased. Bacon also may be
cured by this receipt, or by the Bordyke one for hams. A
month is sufficient time for the salting, unless the pork be very
large, when five weeks must be allowed fora ham. The ingre-
dients should be well mixed, and all applied at the same time.

To each 14 lbs. of pork, salt, 1 lb.; coarse sugar, 1 lb.; salt-
petre, 1 oz.; pepper (if used), 1 0z.: 4 to 5 weeks.

‘HAMS SUPERIOR TO WESTPHALIA.

Take the hams as soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut
up, rub them well with common salt, and leave them for three
days to drain; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hams
- of from fifteen to eighteen pounds weight, mix together two
-ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of

common salt; rub the hams in every part with these, lay them
into deep pickling-pans with the rind downwards, and keep them
for three days well covered with the salt and sugar; then pour
over them a bottle of good vinegar, and turn them in the brine,
and baste them with it daily for a month; drain them well, rub

CHAP. XI. | PORK. 245

them with bran, and let them be hung for a month high ina
chimney over a wood-fire to be smoked.

Hams, of from 15 to 18 lbs. each, 2; to drain3 days. Com-
mon salt, and coarse sugar, each’ 1 lb.; saltpetre, 2 ozs.: 3 days.
Vinegar, 1 bottle: 1 month. ‘To be smoked 1 month.

Obs.—Such of our readers as shall make trial of this ad-
mirable receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams
thus cured are in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It
was originally given to the public by the celebrated French
cook, Monsieur Ude, to whom, after having proved it, we are
happy to acknowledge our obligation for it. He directs that
the hams when smoked should be hung as high as possi-
ble from the fire, that the fat may not be melted; a very
necessary precaution, as the mode of their being cured renders
it peculiarly liable to do so. This, indeed, is somewhat per-
ceptible in the cooking, which ought, therefore, to be con-
ducted with especial care. The hams should be very softly
simmered,* and not over-done. They should be large, and of
finely-fed pork, or the receipt will not answer. We give the
pe of our first trial of it, which was perfectly successful.

Leg of Suffolk farm-house pork, 14 to 15 lbs ; saltpetre, 14 0z.;
strong coarse salt, 6 ozs.; coarse sugar, 8 ozs.: 3 days. Fine
white-wine vinegar, 1 pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month.
Smoked over wood, 1 month. :

Obs.—W hen two hams are pickled together a smaller pro-
portion of the ingredients is required for each, than for one
which is cured by itself.

HAMS.
(Bordyke Receipt.)

After the hams have been rubbed with salt, and well drained
from the brine, according to our previous directions, take, for
each fourteen pounds weight of the pork, one ounce of saltpetre
in fine powder, mixed with three ounces of the coarsest sugar ;
rub the meat in every part with these, and let it remain some
hours, then cover it well with eight ounces of bay-salt, dried and
pounded, and mixed with four ounces of common salt: in four
days add one pound of treacle, and keep the hams turned daily,
and well basted with the pickle for a month. Hang them up
to drain for a night, fold them in brown paper, and send them
to be smoked for a month. An ounce of ground black pepper
is often mixed with the saltpetre in this receipt, and three

_ * We have not been able to make the trial ourselves, but we think they would
be even finer baked than boiled.

246 . MODERN COOKERY, [CHAP. XI.
ounces of bruised juniper-berries are rubbed on to. the meat
before the salt is added, when hams of a very high flavour are
desired.

Ham, 14 Ibs.; saltpetre, 1 0z.; coarse sugar, 3 ozs.: 8 to 12
hours. Bay-salt, } lb.; common salt, 4 ozs.: 4days. Treacle,
1 Ib.: 1 month. To heighten flavour, black pepper, 1 oz. ;
juniper-berries, 3 ozs.

TO BOIL A HAM.

The degree of soaking which must be given to a ham before
it is boiled, must depend both on the manner in which it has
been cured, and on its age. If highly salted, hard, and old, a
day and night, or even longer, may be requisite to dilate the
pores sufficiently, and to extract a portion of the salt. To do
either effectually the water must be several times changed
during the steeping. We generally find hams cured by any of
the receipts which we have given in this chapter quite enough
soaked in twelve hours; and they are more frequently laid into
water only early in the morning of the day on which they are
boiled. Those pickled by Monsieur Ude’s receipt need much
less steeping than any others. After the ham has been scraped,
or brushed, as clean as possible, pare away lightly any part
which, from being blackened or rusty, would disfigure it ;
though it is better not to cut the flesh at all unless it be really
requisite for the good appearance of the joint. Lay it intoa
ham-kettle, or into any other vessel of a similar form, and
cover it plentifully with cold water ; bring it very slowly indeed
to boil, and clear off carefully the scum which will be thrown
up in great abundance. So soon as the water has been cleared
from this, draw back the pan quite to the edge of the stove, that
the ham may be simmered softly, but steadily, until it is tender.
On no account allow it to boil fast. A bunch of herbs and
three or four carrots, thrown in directly after the water has
been skimmed, will improve it. When it can be probed very
easily with a sharp skewer, or larding-pin, lift it out, strip off
the skin, and should there be an oven at hand, set it in for a
few minutes, after having laid it on a drainer; strew fine rasp-
ings over it, or grate a hard-toasted crust, or sift upon it the
prepared bread of page 129, unless it is to be glazed, when
neither of these must be used.

Small ham, 33 to 4 hours; moderate sized, 4 to 4} hours;
very large, 5 to 53 hours. |

Obs.—We have seen the following manner of boiling a ham
recommended, but we have not tried it :—“ Put into the water —
in which it is to be boiled, a quart of old cider and a pint of

_ CHAP. XI. PORK. 247

vinegar, a large’bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay leaf. When it
is two thirds done, skin, cover it with raspings, and set it in an
oven until it is done enough : if, will prove incomparably supe-
rior to a ham boiled in the usual way.”

FRENCH RECEIPT FOR BOILING A HAM.

_ After having soaked, thoroughly cleaned, and trimmed the
ham, put over it a little very sweet clean hay, and tie it up in
a thin cloth ; place it in a ham kettle, a braising pan, or any
other vessel as nearly of its size as can be, and cover it with two
parts of cold water, and one of light white wine (we think the
reader will perhaps find czder a good substitute for this); add,
when it boils and has been skimmed, four or five carrots, two or
three onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs, and the smallest bit
of garlic. Let the whole simmer gently from four to five hours, or
longer should the ham be very large. When perfectly tender,
lift it out, take off the rind, and sprinkle over it some fine
crumbs, or some raspings of bread mixed with a little finely
minced parsley.

TO BAKE A HAM.

Unless when too salt, from not being sufficiently soaked, a
ham (particularly a young and fresh one) eats much better
baked than boiled, and remains longer good. ‘The safer plan is
to lay it into plenty of cold water over night. The following
day soak it for an hour or more in warm water, wash it deli-
cately clean, trim smoothly off all rusty parts, and lay it with
the rind downwards into a coarse paste rolled to about an inch
thick ; moisten the edges, draw, pinch them together, and fold
them over on the upper side of the ham, taking care to close
them so that no gravy can escape. Send it to a well-heated,
but not a fierce oven. A very small ham will require quite
three hours baking, and a large one five. The crust and the
skin must be removed while it is hot. When part only of a
ham is dressed, this mode is better far than boiling it.

TO BOIL BACON.

When very highly salted and dried, it should be soaked for
an hour before it is dressed. Scrape and wash it well, cover it
plentifully with cold water, let it both heat and boil slowly,
remove all the scum with care, and when a fork or skewer will
penetrate the bacon easily lift it out, strip off the skin, and strew
raspings of bread over the top, or grate upon it a hard crust
which has been toasted until it is crisp quite through ; or should

248 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. xr. |

it be at hand, use for the purpose the bread recommended at
page 129, then dry it a little before the fire, or set it for a few
minutes into a gentle oven. Bacon requires long boiling, but
the precise time depends upon its quality, the fiesh of young
porkers becoming tender much sooner than that of older ones;
sometimes, too, the manner in which the animal has been fed
renders the meat hard, and it will then, unless thoroughly
cooked, prove very indigestible. From ten to fifteen minutes
less for the pound, must be allowed for unsmoked bacon, or for
pickled pork.

Smoked bacon (striped), 2 lbs., from 13 to 13 hour ; unsmoked
bacon, or pork, 1 to 14 hour.

Obs.—The thickest part of a large gammon of bacon will
require from twenty to thirty minutes longer boiling than the
thinner side. .

BACON BROILED OR FRIED.

Cut it evenly in thin slices, or rashers, as they are generally
called, pare from them all rind and rust, curl them round, fasten
them with small slight skewers, then fry, broil, or toast them
in a Dutch oven ; draw out the skewers before they are sent to
table. A few minutes will dress them either way. They may
also be cooked without being curled. The rind should always be
taken off, and the bacon gently toasted, grilled, or fried, that it
may, be well done without being too much dried, or hardened :
it should be cut thin.

DRESSED RASHERS OF BACON.

Slice rather thicker than for frying, some cold boiled bacon,
‘and strew it lightly on both sides with fine raspings of bread,
or with a grated crust which has been very slowly and gradually
toasted until brown quite through. ‘Toast or warm the rash-
ers in a Dutch oven, and serve them with veal cutlets, or any
other delicate meat. The bacon thus dressed is much nicer
than when broiled or fried without the previous boiling.

4 to 5 minutes.

TONBRIDGE BRAWN.

Split open the head of a middling-sized porker, remove the
brain and all the bones, strew the inside rather thickly with fine
salt, and let it drain until the following day. Cleanse the ears
and feet in the same manner; wipe them all from the brine,
lay them into a large pan, and rub them well with an ounce
and a half of saltpetre mixed with six ounces of sugar ; in twelve

CHAP. XI. | PORK. 249

hours, add six ounces of salt; the next day pour a quarter-pint
of good vinegar over them, and keep them turned in the pickle
every twenty-four hours, for a week, then wash it off the ears
and feet, and boil them for about an hour and a half; bone the
feet while they are warm, and trim the gristle from the large
ends of the ears. When these are ready, mix a large grated
nutmeg with a teaspoonful and a half of mace, half a teaspoon-
ful of cayenne, and as much of cloves. Wash, but do not soak
the head; wipe and flatten it on a board; cut some of the flesh
from the thickest parts, and (when the whole of the meat has
been seasoned equally with the spices) lay it on the thinnest ;
intermix it with that of the ears and feet, roll it up very tight,
and bind it firmly with broad tape; fold a thin pudding-cloth
quite closely round it, and tie it securely at both ends. A
braising-pan, from its form, is best adapted for boiling it, but if
there be not one at hand, place the head in a vessel adapted to
its size, with the bones and trimmings of the feet and ears, a
large bunch of savoury herbs, two moderate-sized onions, a
small head of celery, three or four carrots, a teaspoonful of pep-
percorns, and sufficient cold water to cover it well; boil it very
gently for four hours, and leave it until two parts cold in the
liquor in which it was boiled. Take off the cloth, and put the
brawn between two dishes or trenchers, with a heavy weight on
the upper one. The next day take off the fillets of tape, and
serve the head whole or sliced.

ITALIAN PORK CHEESE.

Chop, not very fine, one pound of lean pork with two pounds
of the inside fat; strew over, and mix thoroughly with them
three teaspoonsful of salt, nearly half as much pepper, a half-
teaspoonful of mixed parsley, thyme, and sage (and sweet-basil,
if it can be procured), all minced extremely small. Press the
meat closely and evenly into a shallow tin,—such as are used
for Yorkshire puddings will answer well,—and bake it in a very
gentle oven from an hour to an hour and a half: it is served
cold, in slices. Should the proportion of fat be considered too
much, it can be diminished on a second trial.

Minced mushrooms or truffles may be added with very good
effect to all meat-cakes, or compositions of this kind.

Lean of pork, 1 Ib.; fat, 2 lbs.; salt, 3 teaspoonsful ; pepper,
14 teaspoonful; mace, 4 teaspoonful; nutmeg, 1 small; mixed
~ herbs, 1 large tablespoonful: 1 to 14 hour,

250 MODERN COOKERY, [cwap. x1.

SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKE, OR, PAIN DE PORC FRAIS.

Season very highly from two to three pounds of good sau-
sage-meat, both with spices and with sage, or with thyme and
parsley, if these be preferred; press the mixture into a pan,
and proceed exactly as for the veal-cake of page 209. A few

minced eschalots can be mixed with the meat for those who
like their flavour.

SAUSAGES.

Common farm-house sausages are made with nearly equal
parts of fat and lean pork, coarsely chopped, and seasoned with
salt and pepper only. They are put into skins (which have
previously been turned inside out, scraped very thin, washed
with exceeding nicety, and wiped very dry), then twisted into
links, and should be hung in a cool airy larder, when they will
remain good for some time. Odd scraps and trimmings of pork
are usually taken for sausage-meat when the pig is killed and
cut up at home; but the chine and blade-bone are preferred in
general for the purpose. The pork rinds, as we have already
‘stated,* will make a strong and almost flavourless jelly, which
may be used with excellent effect for stock, and which, with the
addition of some pork-bones, plenty of vegetables, and some
dried peas, will make a very nutritious soup for those who do
not object to the pork-flavour which the bones will give. Half
an ounce of salt, and nearly or quite a quarter-ounce of pepper
will sufficiently season each pound of the sausage-meat.

KENTISH SAUSAGE-MEAT.

To three pounds of lean pork, add two of fat, and let both
be taken clear of skin. As sausages are lighter, though not so
delicate when the meat is somewhat coarsely chopped, this
difference should be attended to in making them. When the
fat and lean are partially mixed, strew over them two ounces
and a half of dry salt, beaten to powder, and mixed with one
ounce of ground black pepper, and three large tablespoonsful
of sage, very finely minced. Turn the meat with the chopping
knife, until the ingredients are well blended. Test it before it
is taken off the block, by frying a small portion, that if more
seasoning be desired, it may at once be added. A full-sized
nutmeg, and a small dessertspoonful of pounded mace, would,
to many tastes, improve it. ‘This sausage-meat is usually

* We were compelled, by want of space for more essential matter, to with-
draw from Chapter I, the receipt in which this was named.

CHAP. XI. ] PORK. 251

formed into cakes, which, after being well floured, are roasted
in a Dutch oven. They must be watched, and often turned,
that no part may be scorched. The meat may also be put
into skins, and dressed in any other way.

-- Lean of pork, 3 lbs.; fat, 2 lbs.; salt, 2} ozs.; pepper, 1 0z.;
minced sage, 3 large tablespoonsful.

EXCELLENT SAUSAGES,

Chop, first separately, and then together, one pound and a
quarter of veal, perfectly free from fat, skin, and sinew, an
equal weight of lean pork, and of the inside fat of the pig.
Mix well, and strew over the meat an ounce and a quarter of
salt, half an ounce of pepper, one nutmeg grated, and a large
teaspoonful of pounded mace. Turn, and chop the sausages
until they are equally seasoned throughout, and tolerably fine ;
press them into a clean pan, and keep them in a very cool
place. Form them, when wanted for table, into cakes something
less than an inch thick, flour and fry them then for about
ten minutes in a little butter.

Lean of veal and pork, of each 1 Ib. 4 ozs.; fat of pork, 1
Ib. 4 ozs. ; salt, 14 0z.; pepper, 4 0z.; nutmeg, 1; mace, | large
teaspoonful : fried in cakes, 10 minutes.

POUNDED SAUSAGE-MEAT.
(Very good.)

Take from the best end of a neck of veal, or from the fillet
or loin, a couple or more pounds of flesh without any inter-
mixture of fat or skin ; chop it small, and pound it thoroughly
in a large mortar, with half its weight of the inside, or leaf-fat,
of a pig; proportion salt and spice to it by the preceding
receipt, form it into cakes, and fry it as above.

BOILED SAUSAGES.

In Lincolnshire, sausages are frequently boiled in the skins,
and served upon a toast, as a corner dish. They should be put
into boiling water, and simmered from seven to ten minutes,
according to their size.

SAUSAGES AND CHESTNUTS. (ENTREE.)
An excellent dish. (French.)

Roast, and take the husk and skin from forty fine Spanish
chestnuts ; fry gently, in a morsel of butter, six small flat oval
. cakes of fine sausage-meat, and when they are well browned,
lift them out and pour into a saucepan, which should be bright

252 MODERN COOKERY. | [cHAP. XI.

in the inside, the greater part of the fat in which they have
been fried ; mix with it a large teaspoonful of flour, and stir
these over the fire till they are well and equally browned;
then pour in by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef or
veal broth, or gravy, and two glasses of good white wine; add
a small bunch of savoury herbs, and as much salt and pepper,
or cayenne, as will season the whole properly; give it a boil,
lay in the sausages round the pan, and the chestnuts in the
centre; stew them very softly for nearly an hour; take out the
herbs, dish the sausages neatly, and heap the chestnuts in the
centre, strain the sauce over them and serve them very hot.
This is a corner dish. There should be no sage mixed with the
pork to dress thus.

Chestnuts roasted, 40; sausages, 6; gravy, nearly 3 pint;
sherry or Madeira, 2 wineglassesful: stewed together from 50
to 60 minutes.

TRUFFLED SAUSAGES.
(Saucisses aux Truffes.)

With two pounds of the lean of young tender pork, mix one
pound of fat, a quarter of a pound of truffles, minced very
small, an ounce and a half of salt, a seasoning of cayenne,
or quite half an ounce of white pepper, a nutmeg, a teaspoonful
of freshly pounded mace, and a dessertspoonful or more of
savoury herbs dried and reduced to powder. Test a morsel of
the mixture; heighten any of the seasonings to the taste ; and
put the meat into delicately clean skins: if it be for immediate
use, and the addition is liked, moisten it, before it is dressed, with
one or two glassesful of Madeira. The substitution of a clove of
garlic for the truffles, will convert these into Saucisses a 0 Atl,
or garlicsausages, js

CHAP. XII. | POULTRY. 253

CHAPTER AIL

POULTRY. —

Boiled Fowl.

TO CHOOSE POULTRY.

Youne, plump, well-fed, but not over-fatted poultry is the best.
The skin of fowls and turkeys should be clear, white, and finely
grained, the breasts broad and full-fleshed, the legs smooth, the
toes pliable and easily broken when bent back; the birds
should also be heavy in proportion to their size. This applies
equally to geese and ducks, of which the breasts likewise should
be very plump, and the feet yellow and flexible: when these
are red and hard, the bills of the same colour, and the skin full
of hairs, and extremely coarse, the birds are old.

White-legged fowls and chickens should be chosen for
boiling, because their appearance is the most delicate when
dressed; but the dark-legged ones often prove more juicy
and of better fiavour when roasted, and their colour then is
immaterial.

Every precaution should be taken to prevent poultry from
becoming ever so slightly tainted before it is cooked, but unless
the weather be exceedingly sultry, it should not be quite freshly
killed :* pigeons only are the better for being so, and are
thought to lose their flavour by hanging even a day or two.

* If from accidental circumstances it should become apparently unfit for
table, it may be restored to an eatable state by the same means as fish; it should
not, however, be purchased, at any time} when it exhibits a greenish tint on any
part of the skin, as this indicates its being already stale.

254 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII.

Turkeys, as we have stated in our receipts for them, are very
tough and poor eating if not sufficiently long kept. A goose,
also, in winter, should hang some days before it is dressed, and
fowls, likewise, will be improved by it.

All kinds of poultry should be thoroughly cooked, though
without being overdone, for nothing in general can more
effectually destroy the appetite than the taste and appearance
' of their flesh when brought to table half roasted or boiled.

TO BONE A FOWL OR TURKEY WITHOUT OPENING IT.

After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and
out with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head,
cut through the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and
pull them from the fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise
the flesh first from the lower part of the back-bone, and a
little also from the end of the breast-bone, if necessary ; work ©
the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh ; with the point of
the knife detach the joint from it, take the end of the bone
firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it down to the
next joint, round which pass the point of the knife carefully, and
when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut round the
next bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to it, until the
whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in
the same manner; then detach the fiesh from the back and
breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints
of the wings; proceed with these as with the legs, but be
especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint: it
is usual to leave the pinions unboned, in order-to give more
easily its natural form to the fowl when it is dressed. The
merry-thought and neck-bones may now easily be cut away, the
back and side-bones taken out without being divided, and the
breast-bone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the
work progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the
fowl, until it is completely inside out). After the one remaining
bone is removed, draw the wings and legs back to their proper
form, and turn the fowl the right side outwards.

A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner, but as it

requires a very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely,

the legs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to
diminish the expense of this. If very securely trussed, and
sewn, the bird may be either boiled, or stewed in rich gravy, as
well as roasted, after being boned and forced. |

CHAP. XII. ] POULTRY. Treen 255

‘\

ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A FOwL OR TURKEY.

Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise
the flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp
knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached.
Till a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be better to
bone these joints before proceeding further ; but after they are
once detached from it, the whole of the body may easily be
separated from the flesh and taken out entire: only the neck-
bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. The
bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form,
by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with
the livers of two or three fowls, if they can be procured, mixed
with alternate layers of parboiled tongue, freed from the rind,
fine sausage meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest
bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which will give a marbled
appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then be sewn up
and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn
inside the body, andthe bird being first flattened on a table may be
covered with sausage meat, and the various other ingredients we
have named, so -placed that it shall be of equal thickness in
every part; then tightly rolled, bound firmly together with a
fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely
tied at both ends, and dressed as follows :—Put it into a braising-
pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and
fitted as nearly as may be to its size ; add all the chicken bones,
a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two bay-leaves, a large
blade of mace, twenty four white peppercorns, and any trim- |
mings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand ; cover
the whole with good veal-broth, add salt, if needed, and stew
- it very softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and
a half; let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed; and
after it is lifted out, boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it ;
let it become cold, clear off the fat, and serve it cut into large
dice or roughed, and laid round the fowl, which is to be served
cold. If restored to its form, instead of being rolled, it must be
stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent to table hot,
covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be
preferred ; or it may be left until the following day, and served .
garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear
and well-flavoured: the liquor in which the calf’s foot has been
boiled down, added to the broth, will give it the necessary
degree of consistency. French cooks add three or four onions

256 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII.

to these preparations of poultry (the last of which is called a
galantine) ; but these our own taste would lead us to reject. —
Rolled, 14 to 14 hour; galantine, 1 hour.
Obs.— A couple of fowls, boned and rolled, make an excel-
lent pie.

TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, AND PIES.

First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones,
beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest
bone; hold this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed
in the receipt above. ‘The remainder of the birds is too easily
done to require any instructions. ;

TO ROAST A TURKEY.

In very cold weather a
turkey in its feathers will
hang (in an airy larder)
quite a fortnight with ad-
vantage; and, however fine
a quality of bird it may be,
unless sufficiently long kept,

it will prove not worth the
Turkey trussed for Roasting. dressing, though it should
always be perfectly sweet when prepared for table. Pluck,
draw, and singe it with exceeding care; wash, and then dry it
thoroughly with clean cloths, or merely wipe the outside well,
without wetting it, and pour water plentifully through the in-
side. Fill the breast with forcemeat (No. 1, page 143), or with
the finest sausage meat, highly seasoned with minced herbs,
lemon-rind, mace, and cayenne. ‘Truss the bird firmly, lay it
to a clear sound fire, baste it constantly and bountifully with
butter, and serve it when done with good brown gravy, and
well-made bread sauce. An entire chain of delicate fried. sau-
sages is still often placed in the dish, round a turkey, as a
garnish.

It is usual to fold and fasten a sheet of buttered writing paper
over the breast to prevent its being too much coloured: this
should be removed twenty minutes before the bird is done.
The forcemeat of chestnuts (No. 15, Chapter VI.) may be very
advantageously substituted for the commoner kinds in stuffing
it, and the body may then be filled with chestnuts, previously
stewed until tender in rich gravy, or simmered over a slow fire in
plenty of rasped bacon, with a high seasoning of mace, nutmeg,
and cayenne, until they are so; or, instead of this, well-made

es ik
Sx Ee

CHAP, XII.] POULTRY. Sar

chestnut sauce, or a dish of stewed chestnuts, may be sent to
table with the turkey.

13 to 23 hours.

Obs.—A turkey should be laid at first far from the fire, and
drawn nearer when half done, though never sufficiently so to
scorch it; it should be well roasted, for even the most inveterate
advocates of under-dressed meats will seldom tolerate the taste
or sight of partially-raw poultry.

TO BOIL A TURKEY.

A delicate but plump hen-
turkey of moderate size should
be selected for boiling. Pick
and draw it, using the greatest
precaution not to break the _(\ wx
gall bladder ; singe it with pe
writing paper, take off the
head and neck, cut through
the skin round the first joint Turkey for Boiling.
of the legs, and draw them off: this is best accomplished by
fastening the feet to a strong hook, and then pulling the bird
away from it. Wash it exceedingly clean, and then wipe it dry,
4ll the breast with the forcemeat No. 1 or 2 of Chapter VL, or
with the oyster, chestnuy, or French forcemeat, of which the
receipts are given in the same chapter. In trussing it draw the
legs into the body, break the breast-bone, and give the turkey
as round and plump an appearance as can be. Put it into
plenty of warm water, clear off the scum with the greatest care
as it is thrown to the surface, and boil the bird very gently from
an hour and a half to two hours and a quarter. A very large
turkey would require a longer time, but it is unsuited to this
mode of cooking. When the oyster-forcemeat is used, a large
tureen of rich oyster sauce should accompany the dish; but
celery sauce, or good white sauce, may otherwise be sent to
table with it; and a boiled tongue or a small ham is usually
served in addition.. For a plain family dinner, a delicate
cheek of bacon is sometimes substituted for either of these, and
parsley and butter for a more expensive sauce. ast boiling
will cause the skin of the bird to break, and must therefore
be especially avoided: it should hang for some days before it
is dressed, for if quite freshly killed it will not be tender, but
it must be perfectly sweet to be fit for table.

Moderate-sized turkey, 13 to 2 hours; large turkey, longer;
very small one, less time.

258 MODERN COOKERY. [owap. XII.

TURKEY BONED AND FORCED.
(An excellent dish.)

Take a small, well-kept, but quite sweet hen-turkey, of from
seven to eight pounds weight, and remove, by the receipt for a
fowl (page 254), all the bones except those of the pinions,
without opening the bird; draw it into shape, and fill it entirely
with exceedingly fine sausage meat, beginning with the legs and

ings; plump the breast well in preparing it, and when its
original form is quite restored, tie it securely at both ends, and
_at the extremities of the legs; pass a slight iron skewer through
these and the body, and another through the wings and body;
then lay a twine over the back of the turkey, and pass it under
the ends of the first skewer, cross it in the centre of the back,
and pass it under the ends of the second skewer; then carry it
over the pinions to keep them firmly in their place, and fasten
it at the neck. When a cradle spit, of which the engraving
below shows the form, and which opens with a joint to receive the

Cradle Spit.

roast, is not at hand, a bottle jack will be found more conve-
nient than any other for holding the turkey ; and after the hook
of this is passed through. the neck, it must be further supported
by a string running across the back and under the points of the
skewer which confines the pinions to the hook; for, otherwise,
its weight would most probably cause it to fall. Flour it well,
place it far from the fire until itis heated through, and baste it
plentifully and incessantly with butter. -An hour and three
quarters will roast it well. Break and boil down the bones for
gravy ina pint and a half of water, with a little salt, a few
slices of celery, a dozen corns of pepper, and a branch or two of
parsley. Brown gently in a morsel of good butter, a couple of
ounces of lean ham, add to them a slight dredge of flour, and a
little cayenne, and pour to them the broth from the bones, after
it has boiled an hour, and been strained and skimmed; shake
the stewpan-well round, and stew the gravy until it is wanted
for table ; clear it entirely from fat; strain, and serve it very
hot. An eschalot, or half an onion may be browned with the
ham when either is liked, but their flavour is not, we think,
appropriate with poultry.

1
:
;
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:
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CHAP. XII. | POULTRY. 259

The turkey may be partially filled with the foreemeat No. 1
or 3, of Chapter VI., and the sausage-meat may then be placed,
on either side of it.

Hen turkey between 7 and 8 lbs. weight, boned, filled with
sausage-meat, 3 to 4 lbs.; or with forcemeat No. 1, or with No.
3, Chapter VI., 1 Ib. (that is to say, 1 lb. of bread-crumbs, and
the other ingredients in proportion.) Sausage-meat, 2 to 3 lbs.
roasted 12 hour.

- Obs.—When a common spit is used for the turkey, it must
be fastened ¢o, and not put upon it.

Bread sauce can be served with the bird, or not, at pleasure.

It will be found an improvement to moisten the sausage-
meat with one or two spoonsful of water: it should be finely
minced, well spiced, and mixed with herbs, when the common
forcemeat is not used in addition. In preparing it a pound and
a quarter of fat should be mixed with each pound of the lean.

To give the turkey a very good appearance, the breast may be
larded by the directions of page 166.

TURKEY A LA FLAMANDE, OR, DINDE POUDREE.
Prepare as for boiling a fine well-kept hen turkey; wipe the

- inside thoroughly with a dry cloth, but do not wash it; throw

in a little salt to draw out the blood, let it remain a couple of
hours or more, then drain and wipe it again; next, rub the
outside in every part with about four ounces of fine dry salt,
mixed with a large tablespoonful of pounded sugar; rub the
turkey well with these, and turn it every day for four days;
then fill it entirely with equal parts of choice sausage-meat, and of
the crumb of bread soaked in boiling milk or cream, and wrung
dry in a cloth; season these with the grated rind of a large
lemon, a small nutmeg, some mace, cayenne, and fine herbs, in
the same proportion as for veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 143).
Sew the turkey up very securely, and when trussed, roll it in
a cloth, tie it closely at both ends, and boil it very gently be-
tween three and four hours. When taken up, sprinkle it thickly
with fine crumbs of bread, mixed with plenty of parsley, shred
extremely small.’ Serve it cold, with a sauce made of the strained
juice and grated rind of two lemons, a teaspoonful of made-
mustard, and one of pounded sugar, with as much oil as will pre-
vent its being more than pleasantly acid, and a little salt, if
needed ; work these together until perfectly mixed, and send
them to table in a tureen.

_ This receipt was given to us abroad, by a Flemish lady, who
had had the dish often served with great success in Paris. We

260 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII.

have inserted it on her authority, not on our own experience ;
but we think it may be quite depended on.

TO ROAST A GOOSE.

After it has been picked and singed with care, put into the body
of the goose two parboiled onions
of moderate size, finely chopped,
<\\ and mixed with half an ounce of
minced sage-leaves, a saltspoonful
of salt, and half as much black
pepper, or a proportionate quan-
tity of cayenne ; to these add a

Goose ready for the Spit. small slice of fresh butter. Truss
the goose, and after it is on the spit, tie it firmly at both ends
that it may turn steadily, and that the seasoning may not
escape; roast it at a brisk fire, and keep it constantly basted.
Serve it with brown gravy, and apple, or tomata sauce. When
the taste is in favour of a stronger seasoning than the above,
which occurs, we apprehend, but seldom, use raw onions for
it, and increase the quantity ; but should one still milder be
preferred, mix a handful of fine bread-crumbs with the other
ingredients, or two or three minced apples. The body of a
goose is sometimes filled entirely with mashed potatoes, which,
for this purpose, ought to be boiled very dry, and well
blended with two or three ounces of butter, or with some
thick cream, some salt, and white pepper or cayenne: to
these minced sage and parboiled onions can also be added at
pleasure. A teaspoonful of made-mustard, half as much of
salt, and a small portion of cayenne, smoothly mixed with a
glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into the goose just
before it is served, through a cut made in the apron.
_ 13 to 128 hour.’
| Obs.—We extract, for the benefit of our readers, from a
_ work in our possession, the following passage, of which we
' have had no opportunity of testing the correctness. “ Geese,
with sage and onions, may be deprived of power to breathe
forth any incense, thus:—Pare from a lemon all the yellow

rind, taking care not to bruise the fruit nor to cut so deeply

as to let out the juice. Place this lemon in the centre of the
seasoning within the bird. When or before it is brought to
table, let the flap be gently opened, remove the lemon with a
tablespoon ; avoid breaking, and let it instantly be thrown
away, as its white pithy skin will have absorbed all the gross
particles which else would have escaped.” |

<5 ee

+
res MP sete
aS tee ee ie

CHAP. XII.] POULTRY. 261

“TO ROAST A GREEN GOOSE.

Season the inside with a little pepper and salt, and roast the
goose at a brisk fire from forty to fifty minutes. Serve it with
good brown gravy only, and sorrel sauce.

TO ROAST A FOWL.

Strip off the feathers, and carefully pick every stump or plug
from the skin, as nothing can
be more uninviting than the
appearance of any kind of
poultry where this has been
neglected, nor more indica-
tiveof slovenliness on the part
of the cook. ‘Take off the °
head and neck close to the Fowl for Roasting.
body, but leave sufficient of the skin to tie over the part that
is cut. In drawing the bird, do not open it more than is needful,
and use great precaution to avoid breaking the gall-bladder.
Hold the legs in boiling water for two or three minutes that the
skin may be peeled from them easily ; cut off the claws, and
then, with a bit of lighted writing-paper, singe off the hairs
without blackening the fowl. Wash, and wipe it afterwards
very dry, and let the liver and gizzard be made delicately
clean, and fastened into the pinions. Truss, and spit it firmly ;
flour it well when first laid to the fire, baste it frequently with
butter, and when it is done, draw out the skewers, dish it, pour
a little good gravy over, and send it to table with bread,
mushroom, egg, chestnut, or olive sauce. A common mode of serv-
ing roast fowls in France is aux cressons, that is, laid upon
young water-cresses, which have previously been freed from
the outer leaves, thoroughly washed, shaken dry in a clean
cloth, and sprinkled with a little fine salt, and a small quantity
of vinegar : these should cover the dish, and after the fowls are
placed on them, gravy should be poured over as usual.

The body of a fowl may be filled with very small mushrooms
prepared as for partridges (see partridges with mushrooms),
then sewn up, roasted, and served with mushroom-sauce: this is
an excellent mode of dressing it. A slice of fresh butter mixed
with some salt and cayenne or pepper ; alittle rasped bacon ; or
a bit or two of the lean of beef or veal minced, or cut into
dice, may be put inside the bird when either is considered an
‘improvement. An ounce or two of fresh butter smoothly mixed
with a teaspoonful of really good mushroom-powder, a little

262 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII.

pounded mace, salt, and cayenne, will impart much more of
flavour to the fowl. |

Full-sized fowl, 1 hour: young chicken, 25 to 35 minutes.

Obs.— As we have already observed in our general remarks
on roasting, the time must be regulated by various circum-
stances, which we named, and which the cook should always
take into consideration. A buttered paper should be fastened
over the breast, and removed about fifteen minutes before the
fowl is served : this will prevent its taking too much colour.

ROAST FOWL.
(A French Receipt.)

Fill the breast of a fine fowl with good ‘forcemeat, roast it as
usual, and when it is very nearly ready to serve take it from the
fire, pour lukewarm butter over it in every part, and strew it
thickly with very fine bread-crumbs} sprinkle these again with
butter, and dip the fowl into more crumbs. Put it down to the
fire, and when it is of a clear, light brown all over, take it care-
fully from the spit, dish, and serve it with lemon-sauce, and
with gravy thickened and mixed with plenty of minced parsley,
or with brown gravy and any other sauce usually served with
fowls. Savoury herbs shred small, spice, and lemon-grate,
may be mixed with the crumbs at pleasure. Do not pour
gravy over the fowl when it is thus prepared.

TO ROAST A GUINEA FOWL.

Let the bird hang for as many days as the weather will
allow; then stuff, truss, roast, and serve it like a turkey, or.
leave the head on and lard the breast. Send gravy and bread-
sauce to table with it in either case: it will be found excellent
eating.

3 to 1 hour.

FOWL A LA CARLSFORT. (ENTREE.)

Bone a fowl without opening the back, and restore it to its
original form by filling the vacant spaces in the legs and wings
with forcemeat ; put a roll of it also into the body, and a large
sausage on either side; tie it very securely at both ends, truss it
with fine skewers, and roast it for a full hour, keeping it basted
plentifully with butter. When appearance is not regarded, the
pinions may be taken off, and the legs and wings drawn inside
the fowl, which will then require a much smaller proportion of
forcemeat :—that directed for veal (No. 1, page 148), will
answer quite well in a general way, but for a dinner of cere-

CHAP. XI] POULTRY. 263

mony, No. 17 or 18 of the same Chapter, should be used in
preference. The fowl must be tzed securely to the spit, not put
upon it. Boned chickens are excellent when entirely filled with
well-made mushroom-forcemeat, or very delicate and nicely
seasoned sausage-meat ; and either roasted or stewed. Brown
gravy, or mushroom sauce should then be sent to table with
them.

BOILED FOWLS.

White - legged poultry
should always be selected
for boiling, as they are of
better colour when dressed ~
than any others. ‘Truss
them firmly and neatly,
with the legs drawn into
the bodies, and the wings
twisted over the backs ; Fowls trussed for boiling.
let them be well covered with water, which should be hot, but
not boiling when they are put in. A full-sized fowl will re-
quire about three quarters of an hour from the time of its begin-
ning to simmer ; but young chickens not more than from twenty
to twenty-five minutes: they should be very gently boiled, and
the scum should be removed with great care as it gathers on the
surface of the water. Either of the following sauces may be
sent to table with them: parsley and butter, béchamel, English

white sauce, oyster, celery, or white-mushroom sauce. The fowls.

are often dished with small tufts of delicately boiled cauliflower
pisces: round them; or with young vegetable marrow, scarcely
arger than an egg, merely pared and halved after it is dressed :
white sauce must be served with both of these. The livers and

gizzards are not, at the present day, usually served in the’ |

wings of boiled fowls. When they are not so, the livers
may be simmered for four or five minutes, then pressed to a
smooth paste with a wooden spoon, and mixed very gradually
with the sauce, which should not boil after they are added.

Full-sized fowl, ? hour: young chickens, 20 to 25 minutes.

Obs.—Half a gallon of cold added to an equal quantity of
boiling water, will bring it to the proper degree of heat for
putting in the fowls. For richer modes of boiling poultry, sce
Blane and Poélée, Chapter VII.

TO BROIL A CHICKEN OR FOWL.

Either of these, when merely split and broiled, is vefy dry

264 — MODERN.COCKERY. - [cHAP, XII.

"
and unsavoury eating; but will be greatly improved if first
boiled gently from five to ten minutes and left to become cold,.
then divided, dipped into egg and well seasoned bread-crumbs,
plentifully sprinkled with clarified butter, dipped again into the
crumbs, and broiled over a clear and gentle fire from half to
three quarters of an hour. It should be served very hot, with
mushroom-sauce, or with a little good plain gravy, which may
be thickened and flavoured with a teaspoonful of mushroom-
powder (should it be at hand), mixed with half as much flour
and a little butter; or with some Espagnole. It should be
opened at the back, and evenly divided quite through ; the legs
should be trussed. like those of a boiled fowl; the breast-bone, |
or thaf of the back may be removed at pleasure, and both sides
of the bird should be made as flat as they can, that the fire
may penetrate every part equally; the inside should be first
laid towards it. ‘The neck, feet, and gizzard may be boiled
down with a small.quantity of onion and carrot previously
browned in a morsel of butter, to make the gravy; and the
liver, after having been simmered with them for five or six
“minutes, may be used to thicken it after it is strained. » A tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice, some cayenne, and minced parsley
should be added to it, and a little arfow-root, or flour and
butter.

1 to 2 hour.

FRICASSEED FOWLS OR CHICKENS. (ENTREE.)

To make a fricassee of good appearance without great expense,

prepare, with exceeding nicety, a couple of plump chickens,

strip off the skin, and carve them very neatly. Reserve the
wings, breasts, merrythoughts, and thighs; and stew down the

. inferior joints with a couple of blades of mace, a small bunch

~ of savoury herbs, a few white peppercorns, a pint and a half of
water, and a small half-teaspoonful of salt. When something
more than a third part reduced, strain the gravy, let it cool, and
skim off every -particle of fat. Arrange the joints which are to
be fricasseed in one layer, if it can be done conveniently, and
pour to them as much of the gravy as will nearly cover them;
add the very thin rind of half a fine fresh lemon, andsimmer
~ the fowls gently from half to three quarters of an hour; throw
in sufficient salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to give the sauce
a good flavour, thicken it with a large teaspoonful of arrow-root,
and stir to it the third of a pint of rich boiling cream ; then lift
the stewpan from the fire, and shake it briskly round while
the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, mixed with a spoonful or

CHAP. XII. ] nse POULTRY. — 265

*
two of cream, are added; continue to shake the pan gently
above the fire till the sauce is just set, but it must not be al-
lowed to boil, or it will curdle in an instant.
3 to 2 hour.

CHICKEN CUTLETS. (ENTREE.)

Skin, and cut into joints, one or two young chickens, and re-
move the bones with care from the breasts, merrythoughts, and
thighs, which are to be separated from the legs. Mix well
together a teaspoonful of salt, and nearly a fourth as much of
mace, a little grated nutmeg, and cayenne; flatten, and form
into good shape, the boned joints of chicken, and the flesh of the
wings; rub a little of the seasoning over them in every part, dip
them into beaten egg, and then into very fine bread-crumbs, and
fry them gently in fresh butter until they are of a delicate brown.
Some of the bones and trimmings may be boiled down in half a
pint of water, with a roll of lemon-peel,.a little salt, and eight
or ten white peppercorns, to make the gravy, which, after being
strained and cleared from fat, may be poured hot to some
thickening made in the pan with a slice of fresh butter and 4
dessertspoonful of fiour: a teaspoonful of mushroom-powder
would improve it greatly, and a small quantity of lemon-pickle
or juice should be added before it is poured out, with salt and
cayenne if required. Pile the cutlets high in the middle of the
dish, and serve the sauce under them, or in a tureen.

CUTLETS OF FOWLS, PARTRIDGES, OR PIGEONS. (ENTREE.)
(French Receipt.)

Take closely off the flesh of the breast and wing together, on
either side of the bone, and when you have thus raised the large

Jillets, as they are called, from three birds, which will give you _

but six cutlets, take the strips of flesh that lie under the wings,
and that of the merrythoughts, and flatten two or three of these
together, that you may have nine cutlets at least, of equal size.
When all are ready, fry to a pale brown as many diamond-
shaped sippets of breadas there are fillets of fowl, and let them be
quite as large; place these before the fire to dry, and wipe out
the pan. Dipthe cutlets into some yolks of eggs mixed with a
little clarified butter, and strew them in every part with the
finest bread-crumbs, moderately seasoned with salt, cayenne,
and pounded mace. Dissolve as much good butter as will be
- required to dress them, and fry them in it of a light amber-
colour: arrange them upon the sippets of bread, pile them high

266 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Xi. _

in the dish, and pour a rich brown gravy or Sauce Espagnole
round, but not over them.

FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. (ENTREE.) _

This is an Indian dish. Cut up the chicken, wipe it dry, and
rub it well with currie-powder, mixed with a little salt; fry it .
in a bit of butter, taking care that it is of a nice light brown.
In the mean time cut two or three onions into thin slices, draw
them out into rings, and cut the rings into little bits, about half
an inch long; fry them for a long time gently in a little bit of
clarified butter, until they have gradually dried up and are of a
delicate yellow-brown. Be careful that they are not burnt, as
the burnt taste of a single bit would spoil the flavour of the
whole. When they are as dry as chips, without the least
grease. or moisture upon them, mix a little salt with them, -
strew them over the fried chicken, and serve up with lemon on
a plate.

We have extracted this receipt from a clever little work
called the “‘ Hand-Book of Cookery.”

HASHED FOWL. (ENTREE.)

After having taken off, in joints, as much of a cold fowl, or
fowls as will suffice for a dish, bruise the bodies with a paste
roller, pour to them a pint of water, and boil them for an hour
and a half to two hours, with the addition of a little pepper and
salt only, or with a small quantity of onion, carrot, and herbs.
Strain, and skim the fat from the gravy, put it into a clean
saucepan, and, should it require thickening, stir to it, when it
boils, half a teaspoonful of flour, smoothly mixed with a small
bit of butter ; add a little mushroom catsup, or store-sauce, with
a slight seasoning of mace or nutmeg. Lay in the fowl, and
keep it near the fire until it is heated quite through, and is at
the point of boiling: serve it with fried sippets round the dish.
For a hash of higher relish, add to the bones, when. they are
first stewed down, a large onion, minced and browned in butter,
and before the fowl is dished, add some cayenne, and the juice
of half a lemon.

MINCED FOWL. (ENTREE.)
(French Receipt.) |
Raise from the bones all the more delicate parts of the flesh
of either cold roast, or cold boiled fowls, clear it from the skin,
and keep it covered from the air, until wanted for use. Boil the
bones, well bruised, and the skin, with three quarters of a pint
of water, until reduced quite half, then strain the gravy and let

CHAP. XII. | POULTRY. 267

it cool ; next, having first skimmed off the fat, put it into a clean
saucepan, with a quarter-pint of cream, an ounce and a half of
butter, well mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour, a little
pounded mace, and grated lemon-rind; keep these stirred until
they boil, then put in the fowl, finely minced, with three or four
hard-boiled eggs, chopped small, and sufficient salt, and white
pepper, or cayenne, to season it properly. Shake the mince over
the fire until it is just ready to boil, stir to it quickly a squeeze of
lemon juice, dish it with pale sippets of fried bread, and serve it
immediately. When cream cannot easily be obtained, use milk,
with a double quantity of butter and flour. The eggs may be
omitted; the mince may be warmed in good white sauce, anda
border formed round it of leaves of pastry, fried or baked; or it
may be served in a vol-au-vent. Poached eggs are sometimes
laid over it, and a garnish of curled bacon is placed round the
edge. Another excellent variety of the dish is also made by
covering the fowl thickly with very fine bread-crumbs, moisten-
ing them with clarified butter, and giving them colour with a
salamander, or in a quick oven.* |

COLD FOWLS, EN FRITURE.

Cut into joints, and take the skin from some cold fowls, lay
them into a deep dish, strew over them a little fine salt and

cayenne, add the juice of a lemon, and let them remain for an ~

hour, moving them occasionally, that they may all absorb a
portion of the acid ; then dip them one by one into some French
batter (see page 129), and fry them a pale brown over a gentle
fire. Serve them garnished with very green crisped parsley. A
few drops of eschalot vinegar may be mixed with the lemon-juice
which is poured to the fowls, or slices of raw onion or eschalot,
and small branches of sweet herbs may be laid amongst them,
and cleared off before they are dipped into the batter. Gravy
made of the trimmings, thickened, and well flavoured, may be
sent to table with them in a tureen, and dressed bacon (see page
248,) in a dish apart.

SCALLOPS OF FOWL, AU BECHAMEL. (ENTREE.)

Raise the flesh from a couple of fowls, as directed for cutlets in
the foregoing receipt, and take it as entire as possible from either
side of the breast ; strip off the skin, lay the fillets flat, and slice
them into small thin scallops; dip them one by one into clarified
butter, and arrange them evenly in a delicately clean and not
large frying-pan; sprinkle a seasoning of fine salt over, and

* For minced fowl and oysters, follow the receipt for veal, page 219.

268 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XII.

just before the dish is wanted for table, fry them quickly with-
out allowing them to brown; drain them well from the butter,
pile them in the centre of a hot dish, and sauce them with some
boiling béchamel. This dish may be quickly prepared by tak-
ing a ready-dressed fowl from the spit or stewpan, and by rais-
ing the fillets, and slicing the scallops into the boiling sauce be-
fore they have had time to cool.
Fried, 3 to 4 minutes.

GRILLADE OF COLD FOWLS.

Carve and soak the remains of roast fowls as above, wipe
them dry, dip them into clarified butter, and then into fine
bread-crumbs, and broil them gently over a very clear fire. A
little finely-minced lean of ham, or grated lemon-peel, with a
seasoning of cayenne, salt, and mace, mixed with the crumbs,
will vary this dish agreeably. When fried, instead of broiled,
the fowls may be dipped into yolk of egg, instead of butter, but
this renders them too dry for the gridiron. .

COLD FOWLS.
(The Housekeeper’s Receipt. A Supper Dish.)

Cut very equally a sufficient number of slices from a cold
ham, to form two or even three layers round the rim of the
dish which is to be sent to table. Place the fowls, neatly carved
and trimmed, in the centre, with some branches of curled pars-
ley, or other light foliage amongst them. Cold tongue may be
substituted for the ham with advantage. This dish has a hand-
some appearance, and is convenient for the purpose of quick
serving.

FOWLS A LA MAYONNAISE.

Carve with great nicety a couple of cold roast fowls; place
the inferior joints, if they are served at all, close together in the
middle of a dish, and arrange the others round and over them,
piling them as high as you can in the centre. Border the dish
with the hearts of young lettuces cut in two, and hard-boiled -
eggs, halved lengthwise. At the moment of serving, pour over
the fowls a well-made mayonnaise sauce (see page 113), or, if

referred, a salad mixture, compounded with thick cream,
anstead of oil.

TO ROAST DUCKS.

In preparing these for the spit, be careful to clear the
skin entirely from the stumps of the feathers; take off the

CHAP. XII. | POULTRY. 269

heads and necks, but leave the
feet on, and hold them for a
few minutes in boiling water
to loosen the skin, which must
be peeled off... Wash the in-
sides of the birds by pouring
water through them, but mere-
ly wipe the outsides with a dry
cloth. Put into the bodies a
seasoning of parboiled onions
mixed with minced sage, salt, pepper, and a slice of butter, when
this mode of dressing them is liked; but as the taste of a whole
party is seldom in its favour, one, when a couple are roasted, is
often served without the stuffing. Cut off the pinions at the
first joint from the bodies, truss the feet behind the backs, spit
the birds firmly, and roast them at a brisk fire, but do not place
them sufficiently near to be scorched; baste them constantly,
and when the breasts are well plumped, and the steam from
them draws towards the fire, dish, and serve them quickly with
a little good brown gravy poured round them, and some also in
a tureen; or instead of this, with some which has been made
with the necks, gizzards, and livers well stewed down, with a
slight seasoning of browned onion, some herbs, and spice.

Young ducks, 3 hour: full sized, from ? to 1 hour.

Obs.—Olive-sauce may be served with roast as well as with
stewed ducks.

APN

Ducks ready for the spit.

STEWED DUCK. (ENTREE.)

A couple of quite young ducks, or a fine, full-grown, but
still tender one, will be required for this dish. Cut either down
neatly into joints, and arrange them, in a single layer if possible,
in a wide stewpan; pour in about three quarters of a pint of
strong, cold beef stock or gravy; let it be well cleared from
scum when it begins to boil, then throw in a little salt, a
rather full seasoning of cayenne, and a few thin strips of lemon-
rind. Simmer the ducks very softly for three quarters of an -
hour, or somewhat longer, should the joints be large; then stir
into the gravy a tablespoonful of the finest rice-flour, mixed
with a wineglassful or rather more of port wine, and a dessert-
spoonful of lemon-juice: in ten minutes after, dish the stew
and send it to table instantly.

The ducks may be served with a small portion only of their
- sauce, laid in a circle, with green peas @ la Francazse, heaped
high in the centre; the lemon-rind and port wine should then,

27 MODERN COOKERY. [oHap. x11.

be altogether omitted, and a small bunch of green onions and
parsley, with two or three young carrots, may be stewed down
with the birds; or three or four minced eschalots, delicately
fried in butter, may be used to flavour the gravy. Turnips
au beurre, prepared by the receipt of Chapter XV., may be
substituted for the peas; and a well made Espagnole may take
the place of beef stock, when a dish of high savour is wished for.
A duck is often stewed without being divided into joints. It
should then be firmly trussed, half roasted at a quick fire, and
laid into the stewpan as it is taken from the spit; or well
browned in some French thickening, then half covered with
boiling gravy, and turned when partially done: from an hour
to an hour and a quarter will stew it: well.

TO ROAST PIGEONS.

These, as we have already said,
should be dressed while they are very
fresh. If extremely young they will
‘ be ready in twelve hours for the spit,
‘7\ otherwise, in twenty-four. Take off
4] the heads and necks, and cut off the

toes at the first joint; draw them

carefully, that the gall-bladders may

not be broken, and pour plenty of
water through them; wipe them dry, and put into each bird a
small bit of butter lightly dipped into a little cayenne (formerly
it was rolled in minced parsley, but this is no longer the fashion-
able mode of preparing them). ‘Truss the wings over the
backs, and roast them at a brisk fire, keeping them well and
constantly basted with butter. Serve them with brown gravy,
and a tureen of parsley and butter. For the second course,
dish them upon young water-cresses, as directed for roast fowl
ied cressons, page 261. About twenty minutes will roast

em.

18 to 20 minutes; five minutes longer, if large ; rather less, if
very young.

Pigeons for roasting.

Truss them like boiled fowls, drop them into plenty of boiling
water, throw in a little salt, and in fifteen minutes lift'them out,

pour parsley and butter over, and send a tureen of it to table
with them.

BOILED PIGEONS.

ba ig

ie:

has

Se ee eo =a!

CHAD. XIII | GAME, 271.

CHAPTER XII.

GAME.

\ a2
—~

No. No.
1. Haunch. 8. Shoulder.
2. Neck. 4. Breast.

TO CHOOSE GAME.

Buck venison, which is in season only from June to Michaelmas,
is considered finer than doe venison, which comes into the mar-
ket in October, and remains in season through November and
December: neither should be cooked at any other part of the
year. The greater the depth of fat upon the haunch the better
the quality of the meat will be, provided it be clear and white,
and the lean of a dark hue. If the cleft of the hoof, which is
always left on the joint, be small and smooth, the animal is
young; but it is old when the marks are the reverse of these.*
Although the haunch is the prime and favourite joint of venison,
the neck and shoulder are also excellent, stewed in various ways,

* It must be observed that venison is not in perfection when young: like
mutton, it requires to be of a certain age before it is brought to table. The word
.cieft applies also to the thickest part of the haunch, and it is the depth of the
fat on this which decides the quality of the joint.

dite
272 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaAP. XII.

or made into pasties. If kept to the proper point, and well
dressed, this is the most tender of all meat; but care is necessary
to bring it into a fitting state for table without its becoming
offensive. A free current of cir in a larder is always a great
advantage, as it assists materially in preserving the sweetness of
every thing which is kept in it, while a close damp atmosphere,
on the contrary, is more destructive of animal food of all kinds
even than positive heat. The fumes of creosote are said to be
an admirable preservative against putrescence, but we have not
ourselves yet had experience of the fact. All moisture should
be wiped daily, or even more frequently, from the venison, with
soft cloths, when any appears upon the surface; and every
precaution must be taken to keep off the flies, when the joint is
not hung in a wire-safe. Black pepper thickly powdered on it
will generally answer the purpose: with common care, indeed,
meat may always be protected from their attacks, and to leave
it exposed to them in warm weather is altogether inexcusable in
the cook. .

Hares and rabbits are stiff when freshly killed, and if young,
the ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp. A
hare in cold weather will remain good from ten to fourteen
days; care only must be taken to prevent the inside from
becoming musty, which it will do if it has been emptied in the
field. Pheasants, partridges, and other game may be chosen
by nearly the same tests as poultry: by opening the bill, the
staleness will be detected easily if they have been too long kept.
With few exceptions, game depends almost entirely for the fine
flavour and the tenderness of its flesh, on the time which it is
allowed to hang before it is cooked, and it is never good when
very fresh; but it does not follow that it should be sent to
table in a really offensive state, for this is agreeable to few eaters
and disgusting to many, and nothing should at any time be served
of which the appearance or the odour may destroy the appetite
of any person present.

TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF VENISON.
To give venison the
= flavour and the tender- -
= =) ness so much prized by
<=, epicures, it must. be
= 4 well kept; and by tak-
—/ ing the necessary pre-
\ . cautions, it will hang
——$—— a considerable time

%
CHAP. XIII. | GAME. 273

without detriment. Wipe it with soft dry cloths wherever the
slightest moisture appears on the surface, and dust it plentifully
with freshly-ground pepper or powdered ginger, to preserve it
from the flies. The application of the pyroligneous or acetic
acid would effectually protect it from these, as well as from the
effects of the weather ; but the joint must then be, not only well
washed, but soaked some considerable time, and this would be
injurious to it: the acid, therefore, should only be resorted to
for the purpose of restoring to an eatable state that which would
otherwise be lost, from having been kept beyond the point in
which it is possible to serve it.

To prepare the venison for the spit, wash it slightly with
tepid water, or merely wipe it thoroughly with damp cloths,
and dry it afterwards with clean ones; then lay over the fat
side a large sheet of thickly-buttered paper, and next a paste of
flour and water about three quarters of an inch thick; cover
this again with two or three sheets of stout paper, secure the
whole well with twine, and-lay the haunch to a sound clear fire;
baste the paper immediately with butter, or clarified dripping,
and roast the joint from three hours and a half to four and a
half, according to its weight and quality. Doe venison will
require half an hour less time than buck venison. Twenty
minutes before the joint is done remove the paste and paper,
baste the meat in every part with butter, and dredge it very
lightly with flour ; let it take a pale brown colour, and send
it to table as hot as possible with unflavoured gravy in a tureen,
and good eurrant jelly. It is not now customary to serve any
other sauces with it; but should the old-fashioned sharp or
sweet sauce be ordered, the receipt for it will be found at
page 88." .

34 to 43 hours.

TO STEW A SHOULDER OF VENISON.

Bone the joint, by the directions given for a shoulder of veal
or mutton (see page 206) ; flatten it on a table, season it well
with cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, mixed with a very small
proportion of allspice; lay over it thin slices of the fat of a loi
of well-fed mutton, roll and bind it tightly, lay it into a vessel
nearly of its size, and pour to it as much good stock made with
equal parts of beef and mutton as will nearly cover it; stew it
as slowly as possible from three hours to three and a half or

' * Plates of minced eschalots are still sometimes handed round to the venison-
eaters ; but not at very refined tables, we believe.
T

274 MODERN COOKERY. [onap. xur.

longer, should it be very large, and turn it when it is half done.
Dish and serve it with a good Espagnole, made with part of the
gravy in which it has been stewed; or thicken this slightly
with rice-flour, mixed with a glass or more of claret or of port
wine, and as much salt and cayenne as will season the gravy”
properly. |

Some cooks soak the slices of mutton-fat in wine before they
are laid upon the joint; but no*process of the sort will ever give
to any kind of meat the truc flavour of the venison, which to
most eaters is far finer than that of the wine, and should always
be allowed to prevail over all the condiments with which it is
dressed. Those, however, who care for it less than for a dish
of high artificial savour, can have eschalots, ham, and carrot,
hghtly browned in good butter, added to the stew when it first
begins to boil.

34 to 4 hours

TO HASH VENISON.*

For a superior hash of venison, add to three quarters of a
pint of strong thickened brown gravy, Christopher North’s
“sauce, in the proportion directed for it in the receipt of page
110. Cut the venison in small thin slices of equal size, arrange
them in a clean saucepan, pour the gravy on them, let them
stand for ten minutes or more, then place them near the fire,
and bring the whole very slowly to the point of boiling only:
serve the hash immediately in a hot-water dish.

For a plain dinner, when no gravy is at hand, break down
the bones of the venison small, after the flesh has been cleared
from them, and boil them with those of three or four undressed
mutton-cutlets, a slice or two of carrot, or a few savoury herbs,
and about a pint and a half of water or broth, until the liquid
is reduced quite one third. Strain it off, let it cool, skim off all
the fat, heat the gravy, thicken it when it boils with a dessert-
spoonful or rather more of arrow-root, or with the brown roux
of page 96, mix the same sauce with it, and finish it exactly as
the richer hash above. It may be served on sippets of fried
bread or not, at choice.

TO ROAST A HARE.
After the hare has been skinned, or cased, as it is called, wash
it very thoroughly in cold water, and afterwards in warm. If
in any degree overkept, or musty in the inside, which it will

. Minced collops of venison may be prepared exactly like those of beef; and
venison-cutlets like those of mutton; the neck may be taken for both of these.

CHAP. X11.] GAME.

ine)
«J
Ge

sometimes be when emp-
tied before it is hung
up, and neglected after-
wards, use vinegar, or
the pyroligneous acid,
well diluted, to render it
sweet; then again throw
it into abundance of
water, that it may re-
tain no taste of the acid.
Pierce with the point of Hare Trussed for Roasting.
a knife any parts in which the blood appears to have settled,
and soak them in tepid water, that it may be well drawn out..
Wipe the hare dry, fill it with the forcemeat No. 1, page 143,
sew it up, truss and spit it firmly, baste it for ten minutes with
lukewarm water, mixed with a very little salt, throw this away,
and put into the pan a quart or more of new milk; keep it con-
stantly laded over the hare, until it is nearly dried up, then
add a large lump of butter, flour the hare, and continue the
basting steadily until it is well browned; for unless this be
done, and the roast be kept at a proper distance from the
fire, the outside will become so dry and hard as to be quite
uneatable. Serve the hare when done, with good brown gravy
(of which a little should be poured round it in the dish), and
with fine red currant jelly. This is an approved English me-
thod of dressing it, but we would recommend in preference,
that it should be basted plentifully with butter from the
beginning (the strict economist may substitute clarified beef-
dripping, and finish with a small quantity of butter only); and
that the salt and water should be altogether omitted. First-
rate cooks merely wipe the hare inside and out, and rub it with
its own blood before it is laid to the fire; but there is generally
a rankness about it, especially after it has been many days
killed, which, we should say, renders the washing indispensable,
unless a coarse game-flayour be liked.

1} to 12 hour.

ROAST HARE.
(Superior Receipt.)

A hare may be rendered far more plump in appearance, and
infinitely easier to carve, by taking out the bones of the back
and thighs, or of the former only: in removing this, a very
sharp knife should be used, and much care will be required to
avoid cutting through the skin just over the spine, as it adheres

& a i
276 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIII,

closely to the bone. Nearly double the usual quantity of |
forcemeat must be prepared: with this restore the legs to
their original shape, and fill the body, which should previously
be lined with delicate slices of the nicest bacon, of which the
rind and edges have been trimmed away. Sew up the hare,
truss it as usual; lard it or not, as is most convenient, keep it
basted plentifully with butter while roasting, and serve it with
the customary sauce. We have found two tablespoonsful of the
finest currant jelly, melted in a half-pint of rich brown gravy,
an acceptable accompaniment to hare, when the taste has been
in favour of a sweet sauce.

To remove the back-bone, clear from it first the flesh in the
inside; lay this back to the right and left from the centre of
the bone to the tips; then work the knife on the upper side
quite to the spine, and when the whole is detached except the
skin which adheres to this, separate the bone at the first joint
from the neck-bone or ribs; (we know not how more correctly
to describe it), and pass the knife with caution under the skin
down the middle of the back. ‘The directions for boning the
thighs of a fowl will answer equally for a hare, and we there-
fore refer the reader to them.

STEWED HARE.

Wash and soak the hare thoroughly, wipe it very dry, cut it
down into joints, dividing the largest, flour and brown it
slightly in butter, with some bits of lean ham, pour to them by
degrees a pint and a half of gravy, and stew the hare very
gently from an hour and a half.to two hours: when it is about
one third done, add the very thin rind of half a large lemon,
and ten minutes before it is served stir to it a large dessert-
spoonful of rice-flour, smoothly mixed with two tablespoonsful
of good mushroom catsup, a quarter-teaspoonful or more of
mace, and something less of cayenne. This is an excellent
- plain receipt for stewing a hare; but the dish may be enriched
with forcemeat (No. 1, page 143), rolled into small balls, and
simmered for ten minutes in the stew, or fried and added to it
after it is dished; a higher seasoning of spice, a couple of glasses
of port wine, with a little additional thickening, and a tablespoon-
ful of lemon-juice, will all serve to give it a heightened relish.

Hare, 1; lean of ham or bacon, 4 to 6 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.;
gravy, 14 pint; lemon-rind, }: 1 hour and 20 to 50 minutes.
Rice-flour, 1 large dessertspoonful; mushroom catsup, 2 table-
spoonsful; mace, 4 of teaspoonful; little cayenne (salt, if
needed) : 10 minutes,

CHAP. XIII. ] GAME, | 277

TO ROAST A RABBIT.

This, like a hare, is much ~
improved by having the,
back-bone taken out, and
the directions we have given
will enable the cook, with
very little practice, to remove
it without difficulty. Line
the inside, when this is done, :
with thin slices of bacon, fill it with forcemeat (No. 1, page
143), sewit up, truss, and roast it at a clear, brisk fire, and
baste it constantly with butter. Flour it well soon after it is
laid down. Serve it with good brown gravy, and with currant
jelly, when this last is liked: For change, the back of the
rabbit may be larded, and the bone left in, or not, at pleasure ;
or it can be plain roasted when more convenient.

$ to 1 hour; less, if small.

Rabbit, trussed for roasting.

TO BOIL RABBITS.

Rabbits that are three parts
grown, or, at all events, which
are still quite young, should be
A, chosen for this mode of cooking.
5x \ Wash and soak them well, truss
4 them firmly, with the heads

s turned and skewered to the
Rabbit trussed for boiling. sides, drop them into plenty of
boiling water, and simmer them gently from thirty to forty-five
minutes: when very young they will require even less time
than this. Cover them with rich white sauce, mixed with the
livers parboiled, and finely pounded, and well seasoned with
cayenne and lemon-juice; or with white onion sauce, or with
parsley and butter, made with milk or cream, instead of water,
(the livers, minced, are often added to the last of these), or with
good mushroom sauce.

30 to 45 minutes.

FRIED RABBIT.

After the rabbit has been emptied, thoroughly washed, and
well soaked, blanch it, that is to say, put it into boiling water,
and let it boil from five to seven minutes; drain it, and when
cold, or nearly so, cut it into joints, dip them into beaten ege,
and then into fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper,

278 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XITI.

and when all are ready, fry them in butter over a moderate fire,
from twelve to fifteen minutes. Simmer two or three strips of
lemon-rind in a little gravy, until it is well flavoured with it;
boil the liver of the rabbit for five minutes, let it cool, and then
mince it; thicken the gravy with an ounce of butter, and a
small teaspoonful of flour, add the liver, give the sauce a
minute’s boil, stir in two tablespoonsful of cream, if at hand,
and, last of all, a small quantity of lemon-juice. Dish the
rabbit, pour the sauce under it, and serve it quickly. If
preferred, a gravy can be made in the pan, as for veal cutlets,
and the rabbit may be simply fried.

TO ROAST A PHEASANT.

Unless kept to the proper point, a
pheasant is one of the most tough, dry, and
flavourless birds that is sent to table; but.
when it has hung as many days as it can,
without becoming really tainted, and is well
roasted and served, it is most excellent
eating. Pluck off the feathers carefully, cut
a slit in the back of the neck to remove the

RM OAS crop, then draw the bird in the usual way,
Pheasant, trussed for and either wipe the inside very clean with a
Sagi ce damp cloth, or pour water through it; wipe
the outside also, but with a dry cloth; cut off the toes, turn the
head of the bird under the wing, with the bill laid straight along
the breast, skewer the legs, which must not be crossed, flour
‘the pheasant well, lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it constantly
and plentifully with well flavoured butter. Send bread-sauce
and good brown gravy to table with it. The entire breast of
the bird may be larded by the directions of page 166. When a
brace is served, one is sometimes larded, and the other not;
but a much handsomer appearance is given to the dish by
larding both. About three quarters of an hour will roast
them.

2 hour; a few minutes less, if liked very much underdone;
five or ten more for thorough roasting, with a good fire in both
cases.

BOUDIN OF PHEASANT A LA RICHELIEU. (ENTREE.)

Take, quite clear from the bones, and from all skin and
sinew, the fiesh of a half-roasted pheasant; mince, and then
pound it to the smoothest paste; add an equal bulk of the
floury part of some fine roasted potatoes, or of such as have been

ORY

CHAP. XIIT.] GAME. wD

boiled by Captain Kater’s receipt (see Chapter XV.), and beat
them together until they are well blended; next throw into the
mortar something less (in volume) of fresh butter than there
was of the pheasant-flesh, with a high seasoning of mace,
nutmeg, and cayenne, and a half-teaspoonful or more of salt ;
aa the mixture afresh for ten minutes or a quarter of an

our, keeping it turned from the sides of the mortar into the
middle; then add one by one, after merely taking out the
germs with the point of a fork, two whole eggs and a yolk or
two without the whites, if these last will not render the mixture
too moist. Mould it into the form of a roll, lay it into a stew-
pan rubbed with butter, pour boiling water on it and poach it
gently from ten to fifteen minutes. Lift it out with care, drain
it on a sieve, and when it is quite cold cover it equally with
beaten egg, and then with the finest bread-crumbs, and broil it
over a clear fire, or fry it in butter of a clear golden brown.
- A good gravy should be made of the remains of the bird, and
-sent to table with it; the flavour may be heightened with ham
and eschalots, as directed in Chapter III., page 83, and small
mushrooms, sliced sideways, and stewed quite tender in butter
may be mixed with the boudin after it is taken from the mortar;
or their flavour may be given more delicately by adding to it
only the butter in which they have been simmered, well pressed
from them through a strainer. The mixture, which should be
set into a very cool place before it is moulded, may be made
into several small rolls, which will require four or five minutes’
poaching only. The flesh of partridges will answer quite as
well as that of pheasants for this dish.

TO ROAST PARTRIDGES.

Let the birds hang as long as they can possibly be kept with-
out becoming offensive; pick them care- by
fully, draw, and singe them; wipe the GEN
insides thoroughly with a clean cloth ; BF eit 38
truss them with the head turned under
the wing and the legs drawn close toge-
ther or crossed. Flour them when first
laid to the fire, and baste them plenti-
fully with butter. Serve them with é ’
bread sauce, and good brown gravy: a A Partridge Trussed for
little of this last should be poured over Rog tine.

them. In some counties they are dished upon fried bread-
crumbs, but these are better handzd round the table by them-
selves. Where game is plentiful we recommend that the

280 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XiIL

remains of a cold roasted partridge should be well bruised and
boiled down with just so much water, or unflavoured broth, as
will make gravy for a couple of other birds: this, seasoned
with salt, and cayenne only, or flavoured with a few mushrooms,
will be found a very superior accoripaniment for roast par-
tridges, to the best meat-gravy that can be made. A little es-
chalot, and a few herbs can be added to it at pleasure. It
should be served also with boiled or with broiled partridges in
preference to any other.

30 to 40 minutes.

Obs.—Rather less time must be allowed when the birds are
liked underdressed. In preparing them for the spit, the crop
must be removed through a slit cut in the back of the neck,
the claws clipped close, and the legs held in boiling water for a
minute, that they may be skinned the more easily.

BOILED PARTRIDGES.

This is a delicate mode of dressing young and tender birds.
Strip off the feathers, clean, and wash them well; cut off the
heads, truss them like boiled fowls, and when ready, drop them
into a large pan of boiling water; throw a little salt on them,
and in fifteen, or at the utmost in eighteen minutes they will be
ready to serve. Lift them out, dish them quickly, and send
them to table with white mushroom sauce with bread sauce
and game-gravy (see preceding receipt), or with celery sauce.
Our own mode of having them served is usually with a slice of
fresh butter, about a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and a good
sprinkling of cayenne placed in a very hot dish, under them.

15 to 18 minutes.

PARTRIDGES WITH MUSHROOMS.

For a brace of young well-kept birds, prepare from half to
three quarters of a pint of mushroom-buttons, or very small
flaps, as for pickling. Dissolve over a gentle fire an ounce and
a half of butter, throw in the mushrooms with a slight sprink-
ling of salt and cayenne, simmer them from eight to ten minutes,
and turn them, with the butter, on to a plate; when they are
quite cold, put the whole into the bodies of the partridges, sew
them up, truss them securely, and roast them on a vertical jack
with the heads downwards; or should an ordinary spit be used,
tie them firmly to it, instead of passing it through them. Roast

4 them the usual time, and serve them with brown mushroom
sauce, or with gravy and bread sauce only. The birds may be
~ trussed like boiled fowls, floured, and lightly browned in butter,

CHAP. XIII.] GAME. . 281

half covered with rich brown gravy and stewed slowly for
thirty minutes; then turned, and simmered for another half
hour with the addition of some mushrooms to the gravy; or
they may be covered with small mushrooms stewed apart, when
they are sent to table. They can also be served with their
sauce only, simply thickened with a small quantity of fresh
butter, smoothly mixed with less than a teaspoonful of arrow-
root and flavoured with cayenne and a little catsup, wine, or
store sauce.

Partridges, 2; mushrooms, 3 to 3? pint; butter, 14 0z.; little
mace and cayenne: roasted 30 to 40 minutes, or stewed 1 hour.

Obs.—Nothing can be finer than the game flavour imbibed

by the mushrooms with which the birds are filled, in this re-

ceipt.

BROILED PARTRIDGE.
(Breakfast dish.)

“Split a young and well-kept partridge, and wipe it with a
soft clean cloth inside and out, but do not wash it; broil it
delicately over a very clear fire, sprinkling it with a little salt
and cayenne; rub a bit of fresh butter over it the moment it
is taken from the fire, and send it quickly to table with a
sauce made of a good slice of butter browned with flour, a little
water, cayenne, salt, and mushroom-catsup, poured over it.”
We give this receipt exactly as we received it from a house
where we know it to have been greatly approved by various
guests who have partaken of it there.”

BROILED PARTRIDGE.
(french Receipt.)

After having prepared the bird with great nicety, divided,
and flattened it, season it with salt, and pepper, or cayenne, dip
it into clarified butter, and then into very fine bread-crumbs,
and take care that every part shall be equally covered: if
wanted of particularly good appearance dip it a second time into
the butter and crumbs. Place it over a very clear fire, and
broil it gently from twenty to thirty minutes. Send it to table
with brown mushroom sauce, or some Espagnole.

THE FRENCH, OR RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGE.
This is dressed precisely like our common partridge, and is
excellent eating if it be well kept; otherwise it is tough and
- devoid of flavour. It does not, we believe, abound commonly

in England, its hostility to the gray partridge, which it drives —

282 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. XII.

always from its neighbourhood, rendering it an undesirable
occupant of a preserve. It was at one tine, however, plentiful
in Suffolk,* and in one or two of the adjoining counties, but great
efforts, we have understood, have been made to exterminate it.

%
TO ROAST BLACK COCK AND GRAY HEN.

These birds, so delicious when well kept and well roasted,
are tough and comparatively flavourless when too soon dressed.
They should hang therefore till they give unequivocal indica-
tion of being ready for the spit. Pick and draw them with ex-
ceeding care, as the skin is easily broken; truss them like
pheasants, lay them at a moderate distance from a clear brisk
fire, baste them plentifully and constantly with butter, and
serve them on a thick toast which has been laid under them in
the dripping-pan for the last ten minutes of their roasting, and
which will have imbibed a high degree of savour: some
cooks squeeze a little lemon-juice over it before it is put into
the pan. Send rich brown gravy and bread sauce to table
with the birds. From three quarters of an hour to a full hour
will roast them. Though kept to the point which we have
recommended, they will not offend even the most fastidious
eater after they are dressed, as, unless they have been too long
allowed to hang, the action of the fire will remove all percep-
tible traces of their previous state. In the earlier part of the
season, when warm and close packing have rendered them, in

_ their transit from the North, apparently altogether unfit for
_ table, the chloride of soda may be used with great advantage to

restore them to a fitting state for it; though the copious wash-
ings which must then be resorted to may diminish something of
their fine flavour. f 3 : gat

3 to 1 hour. oo *

TO ROAST GROUSE. ;

Handle the birds very lightly in picking them, draw, and
wipe the insides with clean damp cloths, or first wash, and
then dry them well; though this latter mode would not be
approved generally by epicures. Truss the birds in the same
manner as the black cock, and roast them about half an hour at
a clear and brisk fire, keeping them basted almost without inter-
mission. Serve them on a buttered toast which has been laid
under them in the pan for ten minutes, or with gravy and bread
sauce only. is

4 hour to 35 minutes.

® Brought there by the late Marquis of Hertford, to his Sudbourne estate. _

CHAP. XII. ] | GAME. 283

Obs.—There are few occasions, we think, in which the con-

tents of the dripping-pan can be introduced at table with advan- .

tage; but in dressing moor game, we would strongly recom-
mend the toast to be laid in it under the birds, as it will afford
a superior relish even to the birds themselves.

A SALMI OF MOOR FOWL, PHEASANTS, OR PARTRIDGES.
(ENTREE. )

This isan elegant mode of serving the remains of roasted
game, but when a superlative salmi is desired, the birds must be
scarcely more than half roasted for it. In either case, carve
them very neatly, and strip every particle of skin and fat from
the legs, wings, and breasts; bruise the bodies well, and put
them with the skin, and other trimmings into a very clean stew-
pan. Ifforasimple and inexpensive dinner, merely add to them
two or three sliced eschalots, a bay leaf, a small blade of mace,
and a few peppercorns ; then pour in a pint, or rather more, of
good veal gravy, or strong broth, and boil it briskly until re-
duced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well, to
obtain all the flavour, skim off the fat, add a little cayenne, and
lemon-juice, heat the game very gradually, in it, but do not, on
any account, allow it to boil; place sippets of fried bread round
a dish, arrange the birds in good form in the centre, give the
sauce a boil, and pourit on them. This is but a homely sort of
salmi, though of excellent flavour if well made; it may require
perhaps the addition of a little thickening, and two or three

glasses of dry white wine poured to the bodies of the birds, with

the broth, would bring it nearer to the French salmi in flavour.
As the spongy substance in the inside of moor fowl and black
game is apt to bejextremely bitter, when they have been long
kept, care should be taken to remove such parts as would en-
danger the preparation. :

FRENCH SALMI, OR HASH OF GAME. (ENTREE.)

Prepare underdressed, or half-roasted, game by the directions ie

we have already given, and after having stripped the skin*from

the thighs, wings, and breasts, arrange the joints evenly ina _ “

clean stewpan, and keep them covered from the air and dust till
wanted. Cut down into dice four ounces of the lean of an un-
boiled ham, and put it, with two ounces of butter, into a thick,
well-tinned saucepan, or stewpan; add three or four minced

eschalots (more, should a high flavour of them be liked), two

ounces of sliced carrot, four cloves, two bay leaves, a dozen pep-
percorns, one blade of mace, a small sprig or two of thyme, and

vee.

284 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIII.

part of a root of parsley, or two or three small branches of the
leaves. Stew these over a gentle fire, stirring, or shaking them
often, until the sides of the saucepan appear of a reddish-brown,
then mix well in a dessertspoonful of flour, and let it take a
little colour: next, add by degrees, making the sauce boil as
each portion is thrown in, three qnarters of a pint of strong veal
stock, or gravy, and nearly half a pint of sherry or Madeira;

put in the well-bruised bodies of the birds, and boil them from |

an hour to an hour and «4 half; strain, and clear the sauce quite
from fat, pour it on the joints of game, heat them in it slowly,
and when they are near the point of boiling, dish them imme-
diately with delicately fried sippets round the dish. When
mushrooms can be obtained, throw a dozen or two of small ones,
with the other seasonings, into the butter. The wine is some-
times added to the vegetables, and one half reduced before the
gravy is poured in; but though a sauce of fine colour is thus
- produced, the flavour cf the wine is entirely lost.

TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES.

Handle them as little and as
lightly as possible, and pluck off the
feathers gently; for if this be vio-
lently done the skin of the birds will
be broken. Do not draw them, but
after having wiped them with clean
soft cloths, truss them with the head
under the wing, and the bill laid
close along the breast; pass a slight
skewer through the thighs, catch the
ends with a bit, of twine, and tie it

4 across to keep the legs straight.
Snipe. Suspend the birds with the feet
downwards to a bird-spit, flour them well, and baste them
with butter, which should be ready dissolved in the pan or
Iedle. Before the trail begins to drop, which it will do as soon
as they are well heated, lay a thick round of bread, freed from
the crust, toasted a delicate brown, and buttered on both sides,
into the pan under them to catch it, as this is considered finer
eating even than the flesh of the birds; continue the basting,
letting the butter fall from them into the basting-spoon or
ladle, as it cannot be collected again from the dripping-pan
should it drop there, in consequence of the toast or toasts being
in it. There should be one of these for each woodcock, and the
trail should be spread equally over it. When the birds are

% q
Y
ry,

CHAP. XIII. | GAME. 285

done, which they will be, at a brisk fire, in from twenty to
twenty-five minutes, lay the toasts into a very hot dish, dress
the birds upon them, pour a little gravy round the bread, and
send more to table in a tureen.

Woodcock, 20 to 25 minutes; snipe, 5 minutes less.

TO ROAST THE PINTAIL, OR SEA PHEASANT.

This beautiful bird is by no means rare upon our eastern
coast, but we know not whether it be much seen in the markets
generally. It is most excellent eating, and should be roasted at
a clear quick fire, well floured when first laid down, turned
briskly, and basted with butter almost without cessation. If
drawn from the spit in from twenty-five to thirty minutes, then
dished and laid before the fire for two or three more, it will give
forth a singularly rich gravy.: Score the breast when it is
carved, sprinkle on it a little cayenne amd fine salt, and let a cut
lemon be handed round the table when the bird is served; or
omit the scoring, and send round with it brown gravy, and
Christopher North’s sauce made hot.

20 to 30 minutes.

TO ROAST WILD DUCKS.

These are prepared for the spit exactly like the tame ones,
with the exception of the stuffing, which is never used for wild
fowl. A bit of soft bread soaked in» port wine, or in claret, is
sometimes put into them, but nothing more. Flour them well,
lay them rather near to a very clear and brisk fire, that they
may be quickly browned, and yet retain their juices. Baste
them plentifully and constantly with butter, and, if it can be so
regulated, let the spit turn with them rapidly. From fifteen to
twenty minutes will Foast them sufficiently for the generality of
eaters; but for those who object to them much underdressed, a
few additional minutes must be allowed. Something less of
time will suffice when they are prepared for persons who like
them scarcely more than heated through.

Teal, which is a more delicate kind of wild fowl, is roasted in
the same way: in from ten to fifteen minutes it will be enough
done for the fashionable mode of serving it, and twenty minutes
will dress it well at a good fire.

A SALMI, OR HASH OF WILD FOWL.

Carve the birds very neatly, strip off the skin, and proceed as
' for the salmi of pheasants (page 283), but mix port or claret,
instead of white wine, with the gravy, and give it a rather high

we eee ad lees

286 | MODERN ‘COOKERY. [CHAP. XIV.

seasoning of cayenne. Throw in the juice of half a small lemon —
before the salmi is served, place fried sippets round the dish, and
send it to table as hot as possible.

For a common hash boil the skin and trimmings of the wild-
fowl in some good broth, or gravy (with a couple of lightly
fried eschalots or not, at choice), until their flavour is imparted
to it; then strain, heat, and thicken it slightly, with a little
brown roux, or browned flour; add a glassful of port wine, some
lemon-juice, and cayenne, or sufficient of Christopher North’s
sauce to flavour it well; warm the birds slowly in it; and serve
them as soon as they are thoroughly hot, but without allowing
them to boil.

CHAPTER XIV.

CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.

THE great superiority of the oriental curries over those gencrally
prepared in England is not, we believe, altogether the result of
a want of skill or of experience on the part of our cooks, but is
attributable, in some measure, to many of the ingredients, which
in a fresh and green state add so much to their excellence, being
here beyond our reach. 4 |

The natives of the East compound and vary this class of

CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 287

dishes, we are told, with infinite ingenuity, blending in them
very agreeably many condiments of different flavour, until the
highest degree of piquancy and savour is produced, the whole
being tempered with fine vegetable acids. With us, turmeric
and cayenne pepper prevail in them often far too powerfully :
the prodigal use of the former should be especially avoided, as
it injures both the quality and the colour of the currie, which
ought to be of a dark green, rather than of a red or yellow hue.
The first is given by the genuine powder imported from India ;

the others, by the greater number of spurious ones, sold im

England, under its name. A couple of ounces of a sweet, sound
cocoa-nut, lightly grated and stewed for nearly or quite an hour
in the gravy of a currie, is a great improvement to its flavour:
it will be found particularly agreeable with that of sweetbreads,
and may be served in the currie, or strained from it at pleasure.
Great care, however, should be taken not to use, for the pur-
pose, a nut that is rancid. Spinage, cucumbers, vegetable
marrow, tomatas, acid apples, green gooseberries (seeded), ‘and
tamarinds imported im the shell—not preserved—may all, in
their season, be added, with very good effect, to curries of
different kinds. Potatoes and celery are also occasionally boiled
down in them.

The rice for a currie should always be sent to table in a
separate dish from it, and, in serving them, it should be first
helped, and the currie laid upon it.

MR. ARNOTT’S CURRIE-POWDER.

Turmeric, eight ounces.*

Coriander seed, four ounces.

Cummin seed, two ounces.

Foenugreek seed, two ounces.

Cayenne, half an ounce. (More or less of this
last to the taste.)

Let the seeds be of the finest quality. Dry them well,
pound, and sift them separately through a lawn sieve, then
weigh, and mix them in the above proportions. This is an
exceedingly agreeable and aromatic powder, when all the ingre-
dients are perfectly fresh and good, but the preparing it is rather
a troublesome process. Mr. Arnott recommends that when it
is considered so, a “high-caste” chemist should be applied to
for it. The Messieurs Corbyn and Co., 300, High Holborn,

* We think it would be an improvement to diminish by two ounces the pro-

portion .of turmeric, and to increase that of the coriander seed; but we have not
tried it.

288. MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. XIV.

are so justly celebrated for the superior quality and genuineness. oe
of every thing supplied by them to the public, that we can.
scarcely do better than name them to such of our readers as

may be unacquainted with their house: their drugs are allowed

to.be quite equal in equality to those which are procured at

Apothecaries’ Hall.

MR. ARNOTT’S CURRIE.

“Take the heart of a cabbage, and nothing but the heart,
that is to say, pull away all the outside leaves until it is about
the size of an egg; chop it fine, add to it a couple of apples
sliced thin, the juice of one lemon, half a teaspoonful of black
pepper, with one large tablespoonful of my currie-powder, and
- mux the whole well together. Now take six onions that have
been chopped fine and fried brown, a garlic head, the size of a
nutmeg, also minced fine, two ounces of fresh butter, two table-
spoonstul of flour, and one pint of strong mutton or beef
gravy; and when these articles are boiling, add the former
ingredients, and let the whole be well stewed up together : if
not hot enough, add cayenne pepper. Next, put in a fowl that
has been roasted and nicely cut up; or a rabbit; or some lean
‘chops of pork or mutton; or a lobster, or the remains of
yesterday’s calf’s head; or any thing else you may fancy; and
you will have an excellent currie, fit for kings to partake of.”

“Well! now for the rice! It should be put into water which

should be frequently changed, and should remain in for half an _

hour at least ; this both clears and soaks it. Have your sauce-
pan full of water (the larger the better), and when it boils

rapidly, throw the rice into it: it will be done in fifteen minutes.
Strain it into a dish, wipe the saucepan dry, return the drained ~

rice into it, and put it over a gentle fire for a few minutes, with ~

a cloth over it: every grain will be separate. When served,
do not cover the dish.”

Obs.—We have already given testimony to the excellence of
Mr. Arnott’s currie-powder, but we think the currie itself will
be found somewhat too acid for English taste in general, and

the proportion of onion and garlic by one half too much for any

but well seasoned Anglo-Indian palates. After having tried
his method of boiling the rice, we still give the preference to
that of page 36, Chapter I.

A BENGAL CURRIE.

Slice and fry three large onions in two ounces of butter, and
lift them out of the pan when done, Put into a stewpan three

CHAP. XIV,] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 289

other large onions and a small clove of garlic which have been
pounded together, and smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonfal
of the best pale turmeric, a teaspoonful of powdered ginger, one
of salt, and one of cayenne pepper; add to these the butter in
which the onions were fried, and half a cupful of good gravy;
let them stew for about ten minutes, taking care that they shall
not burn. Next, stir to them the fried onions and half a pint
more of gravy; add a pound and a half of mutton, or of any
other meat, free from bone and fat, and simmer it gently for an
hour, or more should it not then be perfectly tender.

Fried onions, 3 large; butter, 2 ozs. ; onions, pounded, 3 large ;
garlic, 1 clove; turmeric, 1 dessertspoonful ; powdered ginger,
salt, cayenne, each 1 teaspoonful; gravy, } cupful: 10 minutes,
Gravy, } pint ; meat, 14 lb.: 1 hour or more.

A DRY CURRIE.

Skin and cut down a fowl into small joints, or a couple of
pounds of mutton free from fat and bone, into very small, thick
cutlets; rub them with as much currie-powder, mixed with a
teaspoonful of flour and one of salt, as can be made to adhere to
them: this will be from two to three tablespoonsful. Dissolve a
good slice of butter in a deep, well-tinned stewpan or saucepan,
and shake it over a brisk fire for four or five minutes, or until
it begins to take colour, then put in the meat, and brown it well |
and equally, without allowing a morsel to be scorched. The
pan should be shaken vigorously every minute or two, and the
meat turned in it frequently. When this is done, lift it out and
throw into the stewpan two or three large onions finely minced,
and four or five eschalots when these last are liked; add a
morsel of butter, if needful, and fry them until they begin to
soften; then add a quarter pint of gravy, broth, or boiling
water, and a large acid apple, or two moderate-sized._ ones, of a
good boiling. kind, with the hearts of two or three lettuces, or
of one hard cabbage, shred quite small (tomatas or cucumbers
freed from their seeds can be substituted for these, when in
season). Stew the whole slowly until it resembles a thick
pulp, and add to it any additional liquid that may be required,
should it become too dry; put in the meat, and simmer the
whole very softly until this is done, which will be in from three
quarters of an hour to an hour.

Prawns, shrimps, or the flesh of boiled lobsters may be
slowly heated through, and served in this currie sauce with

good effect.
U

290 - MODERN COOKERY, [cHAP. XIV.

A COMMON INDIAN CURRIE,

For each pound of meat, whether veal, mutton, or beef, take
a heaped tablespoonful of good currie powder, a small teaspoon-
ful of salt, and one of flour; mix these well together, and after
having cut down the meat into thick small cutlets, or squares,
rub half of the mixed powder equally over it. Next, fry gently
from one to four or five large onions sliced, with or without the
addition of a small clove of garlic, or half a dozen eschalots,
according to the taste; and when they are of a fine golden
brown, lift them out with a slice and lay them upon a sieve to
drain; throw a little more butter into the pan and fry the
meat lightly in it; drain it well from the fat in taking it out,
and lay it into a clean stewpan or saucepan; strew the onion
over it, and pour in as much boiling water as will almost cover
it. Mix the remainder of the currie-powder smoothly with a
little broth or cold water, and after the currie has stewed for a
few minutes pour it in, shaking the pan well round that it may
be smoothly blended with the gravy. Simmer the whole very
softly until the meat is perfectly tender: this will be in from
an hour and a quarter, to two hours and a half, according to
the quantity and the nature of the meat. Mutton will be the
soonest done; the brisket end (gristles) of a breast of veal will '
require twice as much stewing, and sometimes more. <A fowl
will be ready to serve in an hour. An acid apple or two, or
any of the vegetables which we have enumerated at the com=
mencement of this Chapter, may be added to the currie, proper —
time being allowed for cooking each variety. Very young
green peas are liked by some people in it; and cucumbers pared,
seeded, and cut moderately small, are always a good addition.
A richer currie will of course be produced if gravy or broth be
substituted for the water: either should be boiling when poured
to the meat. Lemon-juice should be stirred in before it is
served, when there is no other acid in the currie. A dish of
boiled rice must be sent to table with it. A couple of pounds
of meat free from bone, is sufficient quite for a moderate-sized
dish of this kind, but three of the breast of veal are sometimes
used for it, when it is to be served to a large family-party of
currie-eaters: from half to a whole pound of rice.should then
accompany it. For the proper mode of boiling it, see mulla-
gatawny soup, Chapter I.. The small grained, or Patna, is the
kind which ought to be used for the purpose. Six ounces is
quite sufficient for a not large currie; and a pound, when boiled

CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 291

dry, and heated lightly in a dish, appears an enormous quantity
for a modern table.

To each pound of meat, whether veal, mutton, or beef, 1
heaped tablespoonful of good currie-powder, 1 small teaspoonful
of salt, and a large one of flour, to be well mixed, and half
rubbed on to the meat before it is fried, the rest added after-
wards; onions fried, from 1 to 4 or 5 (with or without the
addition of a clove of garlic, or half a dozen eschalots) ; sufficient
boiling water to nearly cover the meat ; vegetables, as in receipt,
at choice; stewed, 14 to 24 hours: a fowl, 1 hour, or rather
less; beef, 2 lbs., 1} hour, or more; veal gristles, 24 to 3 hours.

Obs.—Rabbits make a very good currie when quite young.
Cayenne pepper can always be added to heighten the pun-
gency of a currie, when the proportion in the powder is not
considered sufficient.

SELIM’S CURRIES.
(Captain White's.)

These curries are made with a sort of paste, which is labelled
with the above names, and as it has attracted some attention of
late, and the curries made with it are very good, and quickly
and easily prepared, we give the directions for them. “Cuta
pound and a half of chicken, fowl, veal, rabbit, or mutton, into
pieces an inch and a half square. Put from two to three
ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, and when it is melted put
in the meat, and give it a good stir with a wooden spoon; add
from two to three dessertspoonsful of the currie-paste; mix the
whole up well together, and continue the stirring over a brisk
fire from five to ten minutes, and the currie will be done.
This is a dry currie. For a gravy currie, add two or three table-
spoonsful of boiling water after the paste is well mixed in, and
continue the stewing and stirring from ten to twelve minutes
longer, keeping the sauce of the consistency of cream. Prepare
salmon and lobster in the same way, but very quickly, that they
may come up firm. ‘The paste may be rubbed over steaks, or
cutlets, when they are nearly broiled; three or four minutes will
finish them.” *

CURRIED MACCARONI.
Boil six ounces of ribband maccaroni for fifteen minutes, in

_* Unless the meat be extremely tender, and cut small, it will require from ten
to fifteen minutes stewing: when no liquid is adced, it must be stirred without
intermission, or the paste will burn to the pan. It answers well for cutlets, and
for mullagatawny soup also; but makes a very mild-currie.

-
292 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIV.

water slightly salted, with a very small bit of butter dissolved
in it; drain it perfectly, and then put it into a full pint and a
quarter of good beef or veal stock or gravy, previously mixed,
and boiled for twenty minutes, with a small tablespoonful of
fine currie-powder, a teaspoonful of arrow-root, and a little
lemon-juice. Heat and toss the maccaroni gently in this until
it is well and equally covered with it. A small quantity of
rich cream, or a little béchamel, will very much improve the
sauce, into which it should be stirred just before the maccaroni
is added, and the lemon-juice should be thrown in afterwards.
This dish is, to our taste, far better without the strong flavour-
ing of onion or garlic, usually given to curries; which can,
however, be imparted to the gravy in the usual way, when
it is liked. '

Ribband maccaroni, 6 ozs.: 15 minutes. Gravy, or good
beef or veal stock, full pint and 4; fine currie-powder, 1 small
tablespoonful; arrow-root, 1 teaspoonful; little lemon-juice: .
20 minutes. Maccaroni in sauce, 3 to 6 minutes.

Obs.—An ounce or two of grated cocoa-nut, simmered in the
gravy for half an hour or more, then strained and well pressed
from it, is always an excellent addition. The pipe maccaroni,
well curried, is extremely good : the sauce for both kinds should
be made with rich gravy, especially when the onion is omitted.
A few drops of eschalot-vinegar can be added to it when the
flavour is liked.

CURRIED EGGS. re

Boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard, as for salad, and put
them aside until they are cold. Mix well together from two to
three ounces of good butter, and from three to four dessert-
spoonsful of currie-powder ; shake them in a stewpan or thick
saucepan, over a clear but moderate fire for some minutes, then
throw in a couple of mild onions finely minced, and fry them
gently until they are tolerably soft ; pour to them, by degrees,
from half to three quarters of a pint of broth or gravy, and
stew them slowly until they are reduced to pulp; mix smoothly
a small cup of thick cream with two teaspoonsiul of wheaten or
of rice-flour, stir them to the currie, and simmer the whole until
the raw taste of the thickening is gone. Out the eggs into half
inch slices, heat them quite through in the sauce without boiling
them, and serve them as hot as possible.

CURRIED SWEETBREADS.
Wash and soak them as usual, then throw them into boiling

CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 293

water with a little salt in it, and a whole onion, and let them

simmer for ten minutes; or, if at hand, substitute: weak veal
broth for the water. Lift them out, place them on a drainer,
and leave them until they are perfectly cold; then cut them
into half-inch slices, and either flour and fry them lightly in
vuiter, or put them, without this, into as much curried gravy
as will just cover them; stew them in it very gently, from
twenty to thirty minutes; add as much lemon-juice or Chili
vinegar as will acidulate the sauce agreeably,* and serve the
currie very hot. As we have already stated in two or three
previous receipts, an ounce or more of sweet freshly-grated
cocoa nut, stewed tender in the gravy, and strained from it,
before the sweetbreads are added, will give a peculiarly pleasant
flavour to all curries.

Blanched 10 minutes; sliced (fried or not); stewed 20 to 30

‘minutes.

CURRIED OYSTERS.

“ Let a hundred of large sea-oysters be opened into a basin,
without losing one drop of their liquor. Put a lump of fresh
butter into a good-sized saucepan, and when it boils, add a large
onion, cut into thin slices, and let it fry in the uncovered stew-
pan until it is of a rich brown; now add a bit more butter, and
two or three tablespoonsful of currie-powder. When these in-
gredients are well mixed over the fire with a wooden spoon, add >
gradually either hot water, or broth from the stock-pot ; cover
the stewpan, and let the whole boil up. Meanwhile, have
ready the meat of a cocoa-nut, grated or rasped fine, put this
into the stewpan with a few sour tamarinds (if they are to be
obtained, if not, a sour apple, chopped). Let the whole simmer
over the fire until the apple is dissolved, and the cocoa-nut
very tender; then add a cupful of strong thickening made of
flour and water, and sufficient salt, as'a currie will not bear
being salted at table. Let this boil up for five minutes. Have
ready also, a vegetable marrow, or part of one, cut into bits, and
sufficiently boiled to require little or no further cooking. Put
this in with a tomata or two; either of these vegetables may be
omitted. Now put into the stewpan the oysters with their
liquor, and the milk of the cocoa-nut; stir them well with the
former ingredients; let the currie stew gently for a few minutes,
then throw in the strained juice of half a lemon. Stir the
currie from time to time with a wooden spoon, and as soon as

* We find that a small portion of Indian pickled mango, or of its liquor, is an

| agreeuble addition to a currie, as well as to mullagatawny soup. :

294 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIV.

the oysters are done enough serve it up with a corresponding
dish of rice on the opposite side of the table. The dish is con-
sidered at Madras the ne plus ultra of Indian cookery.”*

We have extracted this receipt, as it stands, from the. Maga-
zine of Domestic Economy, the season in which we have met
with it not permitting us to have it tested. Such of our read-
ers as may have partaken of the true Oriental preparation, will
be able to judge of its correctness; and others may consider it
worthy of a trial. We should suppose it necessary to beard the
oysters.

CURRIED GRAVY.

The quantity of onion, eschalot, or garlic used for a currie
should be regulated by the taste of the persons for whom it is
prepared ; the very large proportions of them which are accept-
able to some eaters, preventing others altogether from partaking
of the dish. Slice, and fry gently in a little good butter, from
a couple to six large onions (with a bit of garlic, and four or
five eschalots, or none of either), when they are coloured
equally of a fine yellow-brown, lift them on to a sieve reversed
to drain; put them into a clean saucepan, add a pint and a half
of good gravy, with a couple of ounces of rasped cocoa-nut, or
of any other of the condiments we have already specified, which
may require as much stewing as the onions (an apple or two,
for instance), and simmer them softly from half to three quar-
ters of an hour, or until the onion is sufficiently tender to be
pressed through a strainer. We would recommend that for a

delicate currie this should always be done; for a common one’ —
’ it is not necessary ; and many persons prefer to have the whole
of it left in this last. After the gravy has been worked through
the strainer, and again boils, add to it from three to four des-
sertspoonsful of currie-powder, and one of flour, with as much
salt as the gravy may require, the whole mixed to a smooth
batter with a small cupful of good cream.* Simmer it from
fifteen to twenty minutes, and it will be ready for use. Lob-
ster, prawns, shrimps, maccaroni, hard-boiled eggs, cold calf’s
head, and various other meats may be heated and served in it
with advantage. For all of these, and indeed for every kind of
currie, acid of some sort should be added. Chili vinegar an-
swers well when no fresh lemon-juice is at hand.

* Native oysters, prepared as for sauce, may be curried by the receipt for eggs
or sweetbreads, with the addition of their liquor. ;

+ This must be added only just before the currie is dished, when any acid fruit
has been boiled in the gravy: it may then be first blended with a small portion
of arrow-foot, or flour,

CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 295

Onions, 2 to 6 (garlic, 1 clove, or eschalots, 4 to 5, or neither);
fried a light brown. Gravy, 1} pint; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. (3, if
very young): 3 to $ hour. Currie-powder, 3 to 4 dessert-
spoonsful; flour, 1 dessertspoonful ; salt, as needed; cream,
1 small cupful: 15 to 20 minutes.

__ Obs.—In India, curds are frequently added to curries, but

that may possibly be from their abounding much more than
sweet cream in so hot a climate.

POTTED MEATS,

Any tender and well-roasted meat, taken free of fat, skin, and
gristle, as well as from the dry outsides, will answer for potting
admirably, better, indeed, than that which is generally baked
_ for the purpose, and which is usually quite deprived of its

Juices by the process. Spiced or corned beef also is excellent
when thus prepared; and any of these will remain good a long
time if mixed with cold fresh butter, instead of that which is
clarified ; but no addition that can be made to it will render the
meat eatable, unless it be thoroughly pounded ; reduced, in fact,
to the smoothest possible paste, free from a single lump or a
morsel of unbroken fibre. If rent into fragments, instead of
being cut quite through the grain, in being minced, before it is
put into the mortar, no beating will bring it to the proper
state. Unless it be very dry, it is better to pound it for some
time before any butter is added, and it must be long and
. patiently beaten after all the ingredients are mixed, that

the whole may be equally blended and well mellowed in
flavour.

The quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature
of the meat; ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion
than roast meat, or than the breasts of poultry and game ; white
fish, from being less dry, will require comparatively little.
Salmon, lobsters, prawns, and shrimps are all extremely good,
prepared in this way. They should, however, be perfectly
fresh when they are pounded, and be set immediately after-
wards into a very cool place. For these, and for white meats
in general, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne or white pepper, are the
appropriate spices. A small quantity of cloves may be added
to hare and other brown meat, but allspice we would not re-
commend unless the taste is known to be in favour of it. The
following receipt for pounding ham will serve as a general one ©
for the particular manner of proceeding.

296 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. XIv.

POTTED HAM.
(An excellent Receipt.)

To be eaten in perfection this should be made with a freshly
cured ham, which, after having been soaked for twelve hours,
should be wiped dry, nicely trimmed, closely wrapped in coarse
paste, and baked very tender.* When it comes from the oven,
remove the crust and rind, and when the ham is perfectly cold,
take for each pound of the lean, which should be weighed after
every morsel of skin and fibre has been carefully removed, six
ounces of cold roast veal, prepared with equal nicety. Mince
these quite fine with an exceedingly sharp knife, taking care to
cut through the meat, and not to tear the fibre, as on this much
of the excellence of the preparation depends. Next put it intoa
Jarge stone or marble mortar, and pound it to the smoothest
paste with eight ounces of fresh butter, which must be added
by degrees. When three parts beaten, strew over it a tea-
spoonful of freshly-pounded mace, half a large, or the whole of
a small nutmeg grated, and the third of a teaspoonful of ca-
yenne well mixed together. It is better to limit the spice to
this quantity in the first instance, and to increase afterwards
either of the three kinds to the taste of the parties to whom
the meat is to be served.f We do not find half a teaspoonful
of cayenne, and nearly two teaspoonsful of mace, more than is
generally approved. After the spice is added, keep the meat
often turned from the sides to the middle of the mortar, that
it may be seasoned equally in every part. When perfectly
pounded, press it into small potting-pans, and pour clarified
butter{ over the top. If kept in a cool and dry place, this.
meat will remain good for a fortnight, or more.

Lean of ham, 1 lb.; lean of roast veal, 6 ozs.; fresh butter, ©
8 ozs.; mace, from 1 to 2 teaspoonsful; 3 large nutmeg; ca-
yenne, } to } teaspoonful.

Obs.—The roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the
ham alone is generally too salt; for the same reason butter,
fresh taken from the churn, or that which is but slightly
salted and quite new, should be used fur it in preference to its
own fat. When there is no ready-dressed veal in the house,
the best part of the neck, roasted or stewed, will supply the

* See Baked Ham, Chapter XI., page 247.

+ Spice, it must be observed, varies so very greatly in its quality that discretion
is always necessary in using it.

{ This should never be poured hot on the meat: it should be less than milk-
warm when added to it.

CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 297

requisite quantity. The remains of a cold boiled ham will
answer quite well for potting, even when a little dry.

POTTED CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, OR PHEASANT.

Roast the birds as for table, but let them be thoroughly
done, for if the gravy be left in, the meat will not keep half so
well. Raise the flesh of the breast, wings, and merrythought
quite clear from the bones, take off the skin, mince, and then
pound it very smoothly with about one third of its weight of
fresh butter, or something less, if the meat should appear of a
proper consistence without the full quantity; season it with
salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small portions
until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last:
proceed with it as with other potted meats.

POTTED OX-TONGUE. te

Boil tender an unsmoked tongue of good flavour, and the
following day cut from it the quantity desired for potting, or
take for this purpose the remains of one which has already
been served at table. ‘Trim off the skin and rind, weigh the
meat, mince it very small, then pound it as fine as possible with
four ounces of butter to each pound of tongue, a small tea-
spoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg and cloves, and a
tolerably high seasoning of cayenne. After the spices are well
beaten with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A
few ounces of any well-roasted meat mixed with the tongue
will give it firmness, in which it is apt to be deficient... The
breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants may be used
for the purpose with good effect.

Tongue, 1 lb.; butter, 4 ozs.; mace, 1 teaspoonful ; nutmeg
and cloves each, } teaspoonful ; cayenne, 5 to 10 grains. ;

POTTED ANCHOVIES.

Scrape the anchovies very clean, raise the flesh from the
bones, and pound it to a perfect paste in a Wedgwood or marble
mortar; then with the back of a wooden spoon press it through
a hair-sieve reversed. Next, weigh the anchovies, and pound
them again with double their weight of the freshest butter that
can be procured, a high seasoning of mace and cayenne, and a
small quantity of finely-grated nutmeg; set the mixture by in
a cool place for three or four hours to harden it before it is put
into the potting pans. If butter be poured over, it must be
only lukewarm; but the anchovies will keep well for two or
three weeks without. A little rose-pink may be added to

298 MODERN COOKERY. [onap. xIv.

improve the colour, but it must be used sparingly, or it will
impart-a bitter taste. The quantity of butter can be increased
or diminished in proportion as it is wished that the flavour of
the anchovies should prevail. . bed

Anchovies pounded, 3 ozs.; butter, 6 ozs.; mace, third of
teaspoonful ; half as much cayenne ; little nutmeg.

LOBSTER BUTTER.

Pound to the smoothest paste the coral of one or two fine

bsters, mix with it about a third of its volume of fresh butter, —
and the same proportion of spices as are given in the preceding
receipt. Let the whole be thoroughly blended; set it by fora
while in a cool place and pot it, or make it up into small pats
and serve them with curled parsley round the dish, or with any
light foliage that will contrast well with their brilliant colour.
The flesh of the lobster may be ctit fine with a very sharp
knife, and pounded with the coral.

POTTED SHRIMPS, OR PRAWNS.
(Delicious.)

Let the fish be quite freshly boiled, shell them quickly, and
just before they are put into the mortar, chop them a little with
a very sharp knife; pound them perfectly with a small quantity
of fresh butter, mace, and cayenne.

Shrimps (uushelled), 2 quarts; butter, 2 to 4 ozs.; mace, 1
small <alispoonful ; cayenne, } as much.
POTTED MUSHROOMS.

The receipt for these, which we can recommend to the reader,
will be found in the next Chapter.

ie
rd
ie

a
“4

_ plenty of fast-boiling water, which should be ready salted and .

» 4
‘CHAP. XV. | VEGETABLES. 299

a x P .
CHAPTER XV.

VEGETABLES.

Tue quality of vegetables depends much both on the soil in
which they are grown, and on the degree of care bestowed upon
their culture; but if produced in ever so great perfection,
their excellence will be entirely destroyed if they be badly
cooked. a

With the exception of artichokes, which are said to be im-

proved by two or three days’ keeping, all the summer varieties —

should be dressed before their first freshness has in any degree

passer off (for their flavour is never so fine as within a few
ours of their being cut or gathered ); but when this cannot be
done, precaution should be taken to prevent their withering.

The stalk-ends of asparagus, cucumbers, and vegetable-marrow

should be placed in from one to two inches of cold water; and —

all other kinds should be spread on a cool brick floor. When
this has been neglected, they must be thrown into cold water for
some time before they are boiled to recover them, though they
will prove even then but very inferior eating. ‘

Vegetables when not sufficiently cooked are known to be so
exceedingly unwholesome and indigestible, that the custom of
serving them crisp, which means, in reality, only ba ae
should be altogether disregarded when health is considered of
more importance than fashion ; but they should not be allowed
to remain in the water after they are quite done, or both their
nutritive properties and their flavour will be lost, and their good

appearance destroyed. Care should be taken to drain them.

thoroughly in a warm strainer, and to serve them very hot, with
well-made sauces, if with any.

Only dried peas or beans, Jerusalem artichokes, and pota-
toes, are put at first into cold water. All others require

skimmed before they are thrown into it.

300 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. Xv.

TO CLEAR VEGETABLES FROM INSECTS. —

Lay them for half an hour or more into a pan of strong
brine, with the stalk ends uppermost; this will destroy the
small snails and other insects which cluster in the leaves, and
they will fall out and sink to the bottom. A pound and a half
of salt to the gallon of water will answer for this purpose, and
if strained daily it will last for some time. ms :

TO BOIL VEGETABLES GREEN.

After they have been properly prepared and washed, throw
them into plenty of boiling water which has been salted and
well skimmed; and keep them uncovered and boiling fast until
they are done, taking every precaution against their being
smoked. Should the water be very hard, a bit of soda the size
of a hazel-nut, or a small half-teaspoonful of carbonate of
soda, may be added with the salt, for every two quarts, and will
greatly improve the colour of the vegetables ; but if used in
undue proportion it will injure them; green peas especially
will be quickly reduced to a mash if boiled with too large a.
quantity.

Water, 1 gallon; salt, 2 ozs.; soda, } to 3 oz.; or carbonate
of soda, 1 teaspoonful.

TO BOIL POTATOES.
, (A genuine Irish Receipt.)

Potatoes, to boil well together, should be all of the same
sort, and as nearly equal in size as may be. Wash off the
mould, and scrub them very clean with a hard brush, but
neither scoop nor apply.a knife to them in any way, even to
clear the eyes.* Rinse therm well, and arrange them compactly
in a saucepan, so that they may not lie loose in the water, and
that a small quantity may suffice to cover them. Pour this in
cold, and when it boils, throw in about a large teaspoonful of
salt to the quart, and simmer the potatoes until they are nearly
done, but for the last two or three minutes let them boil
rapidly. When they are tender quité through, which may be
known by probing them with a fork, pour all the water from
them immediately, lift the lid of the saucepan to allow the
steam to escape, and place them on a trevet, high over the fire,

* “Because,” in the words of our clever Irish correspondent, “ the water
through these parts is then admitted into the very heart of the vegetable; and
the latent heat, after cooking, is not sufficient to throw it off: this renders the
potatoes very unwholesome.”

CHAP. XV. | VEGETABLES. 301

or by the side of it, until the moisture has entirely evaporated ;
then peel, and send them to table as quickly as possible, either
in a hot napkin, or in a dish, of which the cover is so placed
that the steam can pass off. There should be no delay in serv-
ing them after they are once taken from the fire: Irish families
usually prefer them served in their skins. Some kindswill be
done in twenty minutes, others in less than three quarters of an
hour. We are informed that “the best potatoes are those which
average from five to six to the pound, with few eyes, but those
pretty deep, and equally distributed over the surface.” We
cannot ourselves vouch for the correctness of the assertion, but
we think it may be relied on.

20 minutes to 2 hour, or more. ;

Obs.—The water in which they are boiled should barely
cover the potatoes.

TO BOIL POTATOES.
(The Lancashire way.)

Pare the potatoes, cover them with cold water, and boil them
slowly until they are quite tender, but watch them carefully,
that they may not be overdone; drain off the water entirely,
strew some salt over them, leave the saucepan uncovered by the
side of the fire, and shake it forcibly every minute or two, until
the whole of the potatoes appear dry and floury. Lancashire
cooks dress the vegetable in this way to perfection, but it is far
from an economical mode, as a large portion of the potato ad-
heres to the saucepan; it has, however, many admirers.

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.

These are never good unless freshly dug. Take them of
equal size, and rub off the skins with a brush, or a very coarse
cloth, wash them clean, and put them, without salt, into boiling,
or at least, quite hot water; boil them softly, and when they
are tender enough to serve, pour off the water entirely, strew
some fine salt over the potatoes, give them a shake, and let them
stand by the fire in the saucepan for a minute, then dish and
serve them immediately. Some cooks throw in a small slice of
fresh butter, with the salt, and toss them gently in it after it is
dissolved. ‘This is a good mode, but the more usual one is to
send melted butter to table with them, or to pour white sauce
over them when they are very young, and served early in the
season, as a side or corner dish.

Very small, 10 to 15 minutes: moderate sized, 15 to 20
minutes.

502 MODERN COOKERY. _[omap. xv.

NEW POTATOES IN BUTTER.

Rub off the skins, wash the potatoes well, and wipe them
dry; put them with three ounces of good butter, for a small
dish, and with four ounces, or ore, for a large one, into a well-
tinned stewpan or saucepan, and simmer them over a gentle
fire for about half an hour. Keep them well shaken or tossed,
that they may be equally done, and throw in some salt when
they begin to stew. ‘This is a good mode of dressing them when
they are very young and watery.

TO BOIL POTATOES. .
(Captain Kaier’s Receipt.)

Wash, wipe, and pare the potatoes, cover them with cold
water, and boil them gently until they are done, pour off the
water, and sprinkle a little fine salt over them; then take each
potato separately with a spoon, and lay it into a clean warm
cloth, twist this so as to press all the moisture from the vege-
table, and render it quite round; turn it carefully into a dish
placed before the fire, throw a cloth over, and whenvall are
done, send them to table quickly. Potatoes dressed in this way
are mashed without the slightest trouble; it is also by far the
best method of preparing them for puddings or for cakes.

TO ROAST OR BAKE POTATOES.

Scrub, and wash exceedingly clean, some potatoes nearly as-
sorted in size; wipe them very dry, and roast them in a Dutch
oven before the fire, placing them at a distance from it, and
keeping them often turned ; arrange them in a coarse dish, and
bake them in a moderate oven. Dish them neatly in a napkin,
and send them very hot to table; serve cold butter with them.

13 to upwards of 2 hours.

SCOOPED POTATOES. (ENTREMETS.*) ||

Wash and wipe some
large potatoes of a firm
kind, and with a small
scoop adapted to the pur-
pose,t form as many diminutive ones as will fill a dish ; cover
them with cold water, and when they have boiled very gently
for five minutes, pour it off, and put more cold water to them ;
after they have simmered a second time for five minutes, drain

* Or second course- dish.

+ This may be procured of Mr. Livermore, 80, Oxford-street, 10 whom we have
_ already referred.

CHAP. XV. | VEGETABLES, ~ | 303

the water quite away, and let them steam by the side of the
fire from four to five minutes longer. Dish them carefully,
pour white sauce over them, and serve them with the second
course. Old potatoes thus prepared, have often been made to
pass for new ones, at the best tables, at the season in which the
fresh vegetable is dearest. The time required to boil them will
of course vary with their quality: we give the method which
we have found very successful.

FRIED POTATOES. (ENTREMETS.)

After having washed them, wipe and pare some raw potatoes,
cut them in slices of equal thickness, or into thin shavings, and
throw them into plenty of boiling butter, or very pure clarified
dripping. Fry them ofa fine light brown, and very crisp; lift
them out with a skimmer, drain them on a soft warm cloth,
dish them very hot, and sprinkle fine salt over them. This is
an admirable way of dressing potatoes, very common on the
Continent, but less so in England than it deserves to be. When
pared round and round to a corkscrew form, in ribbons or
shavings of equal width, and served dry and well fried, lightly
piled in a dish, they make a handsome appearance and are
excellent eating. We have known them served in this country
with a slight sprinkling of cayenne. If sliced they should be
something less than a quarter-inch thick. .

MASHED POTATOES. ae

Boil them perfectly tender quite through, pour off the water,
and steam them very dry by the directions already given in
the receipt of page 300; peel them quickly, take out every
speck, and while they are still hot press the potatoes through
an earthen cullender, or bruise them to a smooth mash with a
strong wooden fork or spoon, but never pound them in a mor-
tar, as that will reduce them to a close heavy paste. Let them
be entirely free from lumps, for nothing can be more indicative
of carelessness or want of skill on the part of the cook, than
mashed potatoes sent to table full of these. Melt in a clean
saucepan a slice of good butter with a few spoonsful of milk,
or, better still, of cream; put in the potatoes after having
sprinkled some fine salt upon them, and stir the whole over a
gentle fire, with a wooden spoon, until the ingredients are well-
mixed; and the whole is very hot. It may then be served
directly ; or heaped high in a dish, left rough on the surface,
and browned before the fire; or it may be pressed into a well
buttered mould of handsome form, which has been strewed

304 MODERN COOKERY. | cHAP. XV.

with the finest bread-crumbs, and shaken free of the loose ones,
then turned out, and browned in a Dutch or common oven.
More or less liquid will be required to moisten sufficiently
potatoes of various kinds.

Potatoes mashed, 2 lbs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 1 to 2
ozs.; milk or cream, + pint.

Obs.—Mashed potatoes are often moulded with a cup, and
then equally browned ; any other shape will answer the purpose
as well, and many are of better appearance.

ENGLISH POTATO BALLS. :

Boil some floury potatoes very dry, mash them as smoothly
as possible, season them well with salt and white pepper; warm
them with about an ounce of butter to the pound, or rather
more if it will not render them too moist; a few spoonsful of
good cream may be added, but they must be boiled very dry
after it is stirred to them. Let the mixture cool a little, roll it
into balls, sprinkle over them vermicelli crushed slightly with
the hand, and fry them a fine light brown. They may be
dished round a shape of plain mashed potatoes, or piled on a
napkin by themselves. ‘They may likewise be rolled in egg
and fine bread-crumbs instead of in the vermicelli, or in rice
flour, which answers very well for them.

POTATO BOULETTES. (ENTREMETS.)
(Good.)

Boil some good potatoes as dry as possible, or let them be
prepared by Captain Kater’s receipt; mash a pound of them
very smoothly, and mix with them while they are still warm,
two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a little nut- »
meg, the beaten and strained yolks of four eggs, and last of all
the whites thoroughly whisked. Mould with, and drop the
mixture from a teaspoon, into a small pan of boiling butter, or
of very pure lard, and fry the boulettes for five minutes over a
moderate fire: they should be of a fine pale brown, and very
light. Drain them well and dish them on a hot napkin.

Potatoes, 1 1b.; butter, 2 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; eggs, 4:
5 minutes.

POTATO BRISSOLES.
(French.)

Mash and season the potatoes with salt, and white pepper or
cayenne, and mix with them plenty of minced parsley, and a
small quantity of green onions, or eschalots; add sufficient

CHAP. XV. ] VEGETABLES. 805

yolks of egg to bind the mixture together, roll it into small
balls, and fry them in plenty of lard or butter over a moderate
fire, or they will be too much browned before they are done
through. Ham, or any other kind of meat finely minced, may
be substituted for the herbs, or added to them.

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL.

Boil in the usual manner some potatoes of a firm kind, peel,
and let them cool; then cut them equally into quarter-inch slices.
Dissolve in a very clean stewpan or saucepan from two to
four ounces of good butter, stir to it a small dessertspoonful of
flour, and shake the pan over the fire for two or three minutes;
add by slow degrees a small cup of boiling water, some
pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley ; put in the
potatoes, and toss them gently over a clear fire until they are
quite hot, and the sauce adheres well to them; at the instant of
serving add a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice. Pale
veal gravy may be substituted for the water; and the potatoes
after being thickly sliced, may be quickly cut of the same size
with a small round cutter.

POTATOES A LA CREME,

Prepare the potatoes as above, and toss them gently in a
quarter-pint or more of thick white sauce or of common
béchamel, with or without the addition of the minced parsley.

TO BOIL SEA-KALE.

Wash, trim, and tie the kale in bunches, and throw it into
plenty of boiling water with some salt in it. When it is per-
fectly tender, lift it out, drain it well from the water, and send
it to table with good melted butter. When fashion is not par-
ticularly regarded we would recommend its being served upon a
toast like asparagus. About twenty minutes will boil it, rather
less for persons who like it crisp.

18 to 20 minutes.

SEA-KALE STEWED IN GRAVY. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil the kale fér ten minutes in salt and water; drain it well,
and put it into a saucepan with as much good brown gravy as
will nearly cover it; stew it gently for ten minutes or until it is
tender, and send it to table in the gravy very hot. Another
excellent mode of serving this vegetable is, to boil it in salt and
tie and to pour oyer it plenty of rich white sauce after it is

ished.

. x

806 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XV.

SPINACH. (ENTREMETS.)
(French Receipt.)
Pick the spinach leaf by leaf from the stems, and wash it in

abundance of spring water, changing it several times; then

shake it in a dry cloth held by the four corners, or drain it on a
large sieve. ‘Throw it into sufficient well-salted boiling water
to allow it to float freely, and keep it pressed down with a
skimmer that it may be equally done. When quite young it
will be tender in from eight to ten minutes, but to ascertain if
it be so, take a leaf and squeeze it between the fingers. If to
be dressed in the French mode, drain, and then throw it directly
into plenty of fresh water, and when it is cool form it into balls
and press the moisture thoroughly from it with the hands.
Next, chop it extremely fine upon a clean trencher; put two
ounces (for a large dish) of butter into a stewpan or bright
thick saucepan, lay the spinach on it, and keep it stirred over a
gentle fire for ten minutes, or until it appears dry ; dredge in a
spoonful of flour, and turn the spinach as it is added; pour to
it gradually, a few spoonsful of very rich veal gravy, or, if

preferred, of good boiling cream, (with the last of these a °

dessertspoonful or more of pounded sugar may be added for a
second-course dish, when the true French mode of dressing the
vegetable is liked.) Stew the whole briskly until the whole is
well absorbed; dish, and serve the spinach very hot, with small,
pale fried sippets round it, or with leaves of puff paste fresh
from the oven, or well dried after having been fried. For
ornament, the sippets may be fancifully shaped with a tin cutter.
A proper seasoning of salt must not be omitted in this or any
other preparation of the spinach.

SPINACH, A L’ANGLAISE. (ENTREMETS.)
(Or, English fashion.)

Boil the spinach as already directed, and after it has been
well squeezed and chopped, stir it over a moderate fire until it
is very dry; moisten it with as much thick rich gravy as will
flavour it well, and turn and stew it quite fas until it is again
very dry; then press it into a hot mould of handsome form,
turn it into a dish and serve it quickly. Two or three ounces
of fresh butter may be laid into the saucepan with the spitiach
at first, as a substitute for the gravy. When a perforated tin
shape, ordinarily used for moulding spinach, is not at hand, one
of earthenware, slightly buttered, will serve nearly as well.

“

CHAP. XV. ] VEGETABLES, 307

SPINACH.
(Common English mode.)
Boil the spinach very green in plenty of water, drain, and |
then press the moisture from it between two trenchers; chop it
small, put it into a clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter,
and stir the whole until well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in
a dish, mark it in dice, and send it quickly to table.

ANOTHER COMMON ENGLISH RECEIPT FOR SPINACH. .

Take it leaf by leaf from the stalks, and be very careful to
clear it from any weeds that may be amongst it, and to free it
by copious and repeated washings from every particle of grit.
Put it into a large well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, with the
water only which hangs about it; throw in a small spoonful
of salt, and keep it constantly pressed down with a wooden
spoon, and turned often for about a quarter of an hour, or until
it is perfectly tender. Drain off the superfluous moisture, chop
the spinach quickly on a hot trencher; dish and serve it imme-
diately. Fried sippets of bread should always be served round
this vegetable, unless it be prepared for an invalid.

BOILED TURNIP-RADISHES,

These should be freshly drawn, young and white. Wash
and trim them neatly, leaving on two or three of the small |
inner leaves of the top. Boil them in plenty of salted water
from twenty to thirty minutes, and as soon as they are tender send
them to table well drained, with melted butter or white sauce.
Common radishes when young, tied in bunches, and boiled from
eighteen to twenty-five minutes, then served on a toast like
asparagus, are very good.

BOILED LEEKS.

Trim off the coarser leaves from some young leeks, cut them
into equal lengths, tie them into small bunches, and boil them
in plenty of water which has been previously salted and
skimmed; serve them on a toast, and send melted butter to
table with them.

20 to 25 minutes.

STEWED LETTUCES.

Strip off the outer leaves, and cut away the stalks; wash the
» lettuces with exceeding nicety, and throw them into water salted °
_as for all green vegetables. When they are quite tender, which

308 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaAP. XV.

will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their
age, lift them out, and press the water thoroughly from them ;
chop them a little, and heat them in a clean saucepan with a
seasoning of pepper and salt, and a small slice of butter; then
dredge ina little flour and stir them well; add next a small cup
of broth or gravy, boil them quickly until they are tolerably
dry, then stir in a little pale vinegar or lemon-juice, and serve
them as hot as possible, with fried sippets round them.

TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.

With a sharp knife scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly,
but very clean, from within one to two inches of the green
tender points, throw them into cold water as they are done, and
when all are ready, tie them in bunches of equal size; cut the
_ large ends evenly, that the asparagus may be all of the same

length, and put it into plenty of boiling water prepared by the
directions of page 310. Cut around of bread quite half an inch
thick, and after having pared off the crust, toast it a delicate
brown on both sides. When the stalks of the asparagus are
tender, lift it out directly, or it will lose both its colour and its
flavour, and will also be liable to break; dip the toast quickly
into the water in which it was boiled, and dish the vegetable
upon it, with the points meeting in the centre. Send rich
melted butter to table with it. In France, a small quantity of
vinegar is stirred into the sauce before it is served; and many
persons like the addition. Asparagus may be preserved for a
day or two sufficiently fresh for use, by keeping the stalks
immersed in an inch depth of cold water; but it is never so

good as when dressed directly it is cut, or within a few hours
after.

20 to 25 minutes.

Obs.—-Abroad, boiled asparagus is very frequently served
cold, and eaten with oil and vinegar, or a sauce Mayonnaise.

ASPARAGUS POINTS DRESSED LIKE PEAS. (ENTREMETS.)

This is a convenient mode of dressing asparagus, when it is
too small and green to make a good appearance plainly boiled.
Cut the points so far only as they are perfectly tender, in bits of
equal size, not more than the third of an inch in length; wash
them very clean, and throw them into plenty of boiling water,
with the usual quantity of salt and a morsel of soda. When
they are tolerably tender, which will be in from ten to twelve
minutes, drain them well, and spread them on a clean cloth;
fold it over them, wipe them gently, and when they are quite

CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES, 309

put them into a clean stéwpan with a good slice of butter,
which should be just dissolved before the asparagus is added ;
stew them in this over a brisk fire, shaking them often, for eight
or ten minutes ; dredge in about a small teaspoonful of flour,
and add half that quantity of white sugar; then pour in boiling
water to nearly cover the asparagus, and boil it rapidly until but
little liquid remains : stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, heap
the asparagus high in a dish, and serve it very hot. The sauce
should adhere entirely to the vegetable as in green peas @ la
Frangaise.

TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.

To be eaten in perfection these should be young, very
freshly gathered, and shelled just before they are boiled ; should
there be great inequality in their size, the smaller ones may be
separated from the others, and thrown into the saucepan four or
five minutes later. Wash, and drain the peas in a cullender,
put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, salted by the
directions of page 300, keep the pan uncovered, and let them
boil rapidly until they are tender; drain them well, dish them
quickly, and serve them very hot, with good melted butter in a
tureen ; or put a slice of fresh butter into the midst of the peas,
heap them well over it in the centre of the dish, and let it
dissolve before they are disturbed. Never, on any account,
boil or mix mint with.them unless it be expressly ordered, as
it is particularly distasteful to many persons. It should be
served in small heaps round them, if at all.

15 to 25 minutes, or more if old.

GREEN PEAS A LA FRANGAISE; OR, FRENCH FASHION.
(SNTREMETS. )

Throw a quart of young and freshly-shelled peas into plenty
of spring water with a couple of ounces of butter, and with the
hand work them together until the butter adheres well to the

eas ; lift them out, and drain them in a cullender; put them
into a stewpan or thick saucepan without any water, and let
them remain over a gentle fire, and be stirred occasionally for
twenty minutes from the time of their first beginning to sim-
mer; then pour to them as much boiling water as will just
cover them ; throw in a small quantity of salt, and keep them
boiling quickly for forty minutes: stir well amongst them a
small lump of sugar which has been dipped quickly into water,
and a thickening of about half an ounce of butter very smoothly
mixed with a teaspoonful of flour; shake them over the fire for

310 “MODERN COOKERY. [omap. xv.

a couple of minutes, and serve them directly heaped high in a
very hot dish : there will be no sauce except that which adheres
to the peas if they be properly managed. We have found mar-
row fats excellent, dressed by this receipt. Fresh and good
butter should be used with them always.

Peas, 1 quart; butter, 2 ozs.: 20 minutes. Water to cover
the peas; little salt: 40 minutes. Sugar, small lump; butter,
40z.; flour, 1 teaspoonful: 2 minutes.

GREEN PEAS WITH CREAM. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil a quart of young peas perfectly tender in salt and water,
and drain them as dry as possible. Dissolve an ounce and a
half of butter in a clean stewpan, stir smoothly to it when it
boils a dessertspoontful of flour, and shake these over the fire for
three or four minutes, but without allowing them to take the
slightest colour; pour gradually to them a cup of rich cream,
add a small lump of sugar pounded, let the sauce boil, then put
in the peas and toss them gently in it until they are very hot:
dish, and serve them quickly.

Peas, 1 quart: 18 to 25 minutes. Butter, 14 oz.; flour, 1
dessertspoonful: 3 to 5 minutes. Sugar, 1 saltspoonful ; cream,
1 cupful.

TO BOIL FRENCH BEANS.

When the beans are very small and young, merely take off
the ends and stalks, and drop them into plenty of spring water
as they are done ; when all are ready wash and drain them well,
throw them into a large saucepan of fast-boiling water, salted as
usual (see page 300), and when they are quite tender, which
will be in from twelve to eighteen minutes, pour them into a
cullender, shake the water from them, dish, and send them
quickly to table with good melted butter in a tureen. When
from half to two parts grown, cut the beans obliquely into a
lozenge form, or, when a less modern fashion is preferred, split
them lengthwise into delicate strips, and then cut them once
across: the strings should be drawn off with the tops and stalks.
No mode of dressing it can render this vegetable good when it
is old, but if the sides be pared off, the beans cut thin, and boiled
tend.r with rather more than the ordinary proportion of soda,
they will be of excellent colour, and tolerably eatable.

FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANCAISE. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil, and drain them thoroughly; then put them into a clean
stewpan, or well-tinned iron saucepan, and shake them oyer the

CHAP. Xv. ] VEGETABLES, 311

fire until they are very dry and hot; add to them from two to
four ounces of fresh butter cut into small bits, some white pep-
per, a little salt, and the juice of half a lemon; toss them gently
for a few minutes over a clear fire, and serve them very hot.
Should the butter turn to oil, a spoonful or two of veal gravy
or boiling water must be added.

AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANQCAISE.

Prepare as many young and freshly-gathered beans as will
serve for a large dish, boil them tender, and drain the water well
from them. Melt a couple of ounces of fresh butter, in a clean
saucepan, and stir smoothly to it a small dessertspoonful of flour ;
keep these well shaken, and gently simmered: until they are
lightly browned, add salt and pepper, and pour to them by de-
grees a small cupful of good veal gravy (or, in lieu of this, of
sweet rich cream), toss the beans in the sauce until they are as
hot as possib!e; stir quickly in, as they are taken from the fire,
the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, and a little lemon-juice, and
serve them without delay. The eggs and lemon are sometimes
omitted, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley is added to the
butter and flour; but this, we think, is scarcely an improvement.

Beans, 1 to 2 quarts: boiled 15 to 20 minutes. Butter,20zs.; _
flour, 1 dessertspoonful; salt and pepper; veal gravy, small —
cupful; yolks of eggs, 2; lemon-juice, a dessertspoonful.

TO BOIL WINDSOR BEANS.

When young, freshly gathered, and well dressed, these beans,
even with many persons accustomed to a luxurious table, are a
favourite accompaniment to a dish of streaked bacon, or delicate
pickled pork. Shell them only just before they are wanted, then
wash, drain, and throw them into boiling water, salted as for

eas. When they are quite tender, pour them into a hot cul-
ender, drain them thoroughly, and send them to table quickly,
with a tureen of parsley and butter, or with plain melted butter,
when it is preferred. A boiled cheek of bacon, trimmed free
of any blackened parts, may be dished over the beans, upon
occasion.

20 to 30 minutes; less, when very young.

' Obs.—When the skin of the beans appears wrinkled, they will
generally be found sufficiently tender to serve, but they should
be tasted to ascertain that they are so.

. DRESSED CUCUMBERS.
Pare and slice them very thin, strew a little fine salt over

312 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV.

them, and when they have stood a few minutes, drain off the
water, by raising one side of the dish, and letting it flow to the
other; pour it away, strew more salt, and a moderate seasoning
of pepper on them, add two or three tablespoonsful of the
purest salad-oil, and turn the cucumbers well, that the whole
may receive a portion of it; then pour over them from one to
three dessertspoonsful of Chili vinegar, and a little common,
should it be needed; turn them into a clean dish and serve
them. .

Obs.—If very young, cucumbers are usually dressed without
being pared, but the tough rind of full-grown ones being ex-
tremely indigestible, should be avoided. ‘The vegetable, though
apt to disagree with persons of delicate habit, when sauced in
the common English mode, with salt, pepper, and vinegar only,
may often be eaten by them with impunity when dressed with
plenty of oil. It is difficult to obtain this perfectly fresh and
pure here; and hence, perhaps, arises in part the prejudice
which, amongst us, is so often found to exist against the use of
this most wholesome condiment.

MANDRANG, OR MANDRAM. —
(West Indian Receipt.)

Chop together very small, two moderate-sized cucumbers,
with half the quantity of mild onion; add the juice of a lemon,
a saltspoonful or more of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and
one or two glasses of Madeira, or of any other dry white wine.
This preparation is to be served with any kind of roast meat.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR MANDRAM.

Take three or four cucumbers, so young as not to require
paring; score the ends well, that when they are sliced they may
fall into small bits; add plenty of young onions, cut fine, the

juice of half a lemon, a glassof sherry or Madeira,’and a dessert-
spoonful of Chili vinegar.

DRESSED CUCUMBERS.
(Author's Receipt.)

Cut into lengths of an inch or rather more, one or two freshly
gathered cucumbers, take off the rind, and then pare them
round and round into thin ribbons, until the watery part is
reached:—this is to be thrown aside. When all are done,
sprinkle them with cayenne and fine salt, and leave them to
drain a little; then arrange them lightly in a clean dish, and

CHAP. XV. ] VEGETABLES, 318

sauce them with very fine oil, well mixed with Chili vinegar, or
with equal parts of Chili and of common vinegar.
Cucumbers, 2 or 3; salt, 1 to 2 saltspoonsful ; little cayenne;
oil, 6 to 8 tablespoonsful ; Chili vinegar, or equal parts of this
and common vinegar, 2 to 4 tablespoonsful.
. Obs.—When the flavour of eschalots is much liked, a tea-
spoonful or more of the vinegar in which they have been
steeped or pickled may be added to this dish.

STEWED CUCUMBERS.
(English mode.)

Pare, and split into quarters, four or five full-grown but still
young cucumbers; take out the seeds and cut each part in two;
sprinkle them with white pepper or cayenne, flour and fry them
lightly in a little butter, lift them from thc pan, drain them on
a sieve, then lay them into as much good brown gravy as will
nearly cover them, and stew them gently from twenty-five to
thirty minutes, or until they are quite tender. Should the
gravy require to be thickened or flavoured, dish the cucumbers
and keep them hot while a little flour and butter, or any other
of the usual ingredients, is stirred into it. Some persons like a
small portion of lemon-juice, or of Chili vinegar added to the.
sauce; cucumber vinegar might be substituted for these with
very good effect, as the vegetable loses much of its fine and
peculiar flavour when cooked.

25 to 30 minutes.

Obs.—The cucumbers may be left in entire lengths, thrown
into well-salted boiling water, and simmered for ten minutes,
then thoroughly drained upon the back of a sieve, and after-
wards stewed very quickly till tender in some highly-flavoured
brown gravy, or in the Spanish sauce of page 88.

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.

The cucumbers for this dish may be pared and sliced ve
thin; or quartered, freed from the seeds, and cut into half-inc
lengths; in either case they should be steeped in a little vinegar
and sprinkled with salt for half an hour before they are
dressed. Drain, and then press them dry ina soft cloth; flour them
well, put a slice of butter into a stewpan or saucepan bright in
the inside, and when it begins to boil throw in the cucumbers,
and shake them over a gentle fire for ten minutes, but be
careful to prevent their taking the slightest colour; pour to
_ them gradually as much strong, but very pale, veal stock or
gravy as will nearly cover them ; when it boils skim off the fat

314 MODERN COOKERY. ‘formar. xv.

entirely, add salt and white pepper, if needed, and when the
cucumbers are quite tender, strew in a large teaspoonful of
finely-minced parsley, and thicken the sauce with the yolks of two
or three eggs. French cooks add the flour when the vegetable
has stewed in the butter, instead of dredging it’ upon them at —
first, and this is perhaps the better method.

CUCUMBERS A LA CREME.

Boil them tolerably tender in salt and water, drain them well,
then stew them for a few minutes in a thick béchamel, and
serve them in it.

FRIED CUCUMBERS TO SERVE IN COMMON HASHES AND MINCES.

If very young they need not be pared, but otherwise, take
off the rind, slice, and dredge them lightly with pepper and
flour, but put no salt at first; throw them into very hot butter
or clarified dripping, or they will not brown; when they are
nearly done sprinkle some salt amongst them, and as soon as
they are quite tender, lift them out with a slice, dram them
well, and place them lightly over the hash or mince. A small.
portion of onion may be fried with them when it is liked.

MELON.

This in France and in other parts of the Continent is served
and eaten with the bowl: (or beef boiled tender in the soup-
pot), with a seasoning of salt and pepper only; but the fruit is
- there far more abundant, and of infinitely finer growth than
with us, and requires so little care, comparatively, that it is
planted in many places in the open fields, where it flourishes
admirably.

SALAD.

_ The herbs and vegetables for a salad cannot be too freshly

gathered ; they should be carefully cleared from insects and
washed with scrupulous nicety; they are better when not
prepared until near the time of sending them to table, and should
not be sauced until the instant before they are served. ‘Tender
lettuces, of which the outer leaves should be stripped away,
mustard and cress, young radishes, and occasionally chives or
small green onions (when the taste of a party is in favour of
these last) are the usual ingredients of summer salads. Half-
, grown cucumbers sliced thin, and mixed with them, are a
favourite addition with many persons. In England it is
customary to cut the lettuces extremely fine; the French, who

CHAP, XV. ] VEGETABLES. 815

object to the flavour of the knife, which they fancy this mode
imparts, break them small instead. Young celery alone, sliced
and dressed with a rich salad mixture (see page 111) is excel-
lent: it is still in some families served thus always with roast
pheasants.

Beet-root, baked or boiled, blanched endive, small salad-
herbs which are easily raised at any time of the year, celery,
and hardy lettuces, with any ready-dressed vegetable will
- supply salads through the winter. Cucumber vinegar is an
agreeable addition to these.

FRENCH SALAD.

In winter this is made principally of beautifully-blanched
endive, washed delicately clean and broken into small branches
with the fingers, then taken from the water and shaken dry in
a basket kept for the purpose, or in a fine cloth ; then arranged
in the salad-bowl, and strewed with herbs (tarragon generally,
when in season) minced small: the dressing is not added until
just before the salad is eaten. In summer, young lettuces
are substituted for the endive, and intermixed with a vae
riety of herbs, some of which are not generally cultivated in
England. ee.
SUFFOLK SALAD.

Fill a salad-bowl from half to three parts full with very
tender lettuces shred small, minced lean of ham, and hard-
boiled eggs, or their yolks only, also minced, placed in alternate
layers; dress the mixture with English salad-sauce, but do not
pour it into the bowl until the instant of serving. A portion
of cold chicken, cut in thin slices about the size of a shilling, .
may be added when convenient.

YORKSHIRE PLOUGHMAN’S SALAD.

Mix treacle and vinegar, in the proportion of one tablespoon-
ful of the first to two of the latter; add a little black pepper,
and eat the sauce with lettuces shred small (with an intermix-
ture of young onions when they are liked). This, though cer-
tainly not a very refined order of salad, is scarcely so unpalat-
able as such ingredients would seem to promise.

DES CERNEAUX, OR WALNUT SALAD.

This is a common summer salad in France, where there is
generally an abundant growth of walnuts, though it is not, we
believe, much served in England. ‘Take the fruit when a pin
will pierce it easily, and pare it down to the kernel; put it into

316 MODERN COOKERY. _ LCHAP, XV.

a salad-bow] with either a French or an English dressing, and
toss the whole gently before it is served.

TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS.

Trim off the outside leaves, and cut the stems quite close to
the cauliflowers; let them lie for an hour in plenty of cold
water, with a handful of salt in it, to draw out any insects that
may be amongst them; then wash them very thoroughly, and
examine them well, to be assured that no snail is left in any
part of them, throw them into a large pan of boiling water,
salted as for asparagus, and quite cleared from scum; for this,
if not removed, will adhere to the cauliflowers and spoil their
appearance. When the stalks are tender lift them out, dish
them neatly, and send good melted butter to table with them.

20 to 30 minutes.

CAULIFLOWERS.
(French Receipt.)

Cut the cauliflowers into small handsome tufts, and boil
them until three parts done, drain them well, toss them for a
moment in some thick melted butter or white sauce, and set
them by to cool. When they are quite cold, dip them sepa-
rately into the batter of page 154, fry them a light brown,
arrange them neatly in a dish, and serve them very hot.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Take all the green leaves from two or three fine white cauli-
flowers, and cut the stalks off very closely, so that they will
stand upright in the dish in which they are served; boil them
tolerably tender, but not sufficiently so to hazard their break-
ing, drain them well, and dish them, so as to give the whole
the appearance of one cauliflower, pour a little good white
sauce equally over the tops, and on this strew grated Parmesan
cheese, drop over it a little clarified butter, add another layer
of cheese, and cover the whole with the finest bread-crumbs;
moisten these with more clarified butter, and brown them with
a salamander, or set the dish into the oven, to give them colour;
pour white sauce round the cauliflowers, and send them very
hot to table. ;

CAULIFLOWERS A LA FRANGAISE.

Strip away all the green leaves, and divide each cauliflower
into three or four parts, trimming the stalks quite close; put
them, with the heads downwards, into a stewpan which will just
hold them, half filled with boiling water, into which an ounce

. a
cuAP. Xv.J] VEGETABLES. 317

_of good butter and some salt, have previously been thrown ; so
soon as they are quite tender, drain the water from them, place
a dish over the stewpan and turn it gently upside down; arrange
the vegetables neatly in the form of one large cauliflower and
cover it with good melted butter, into which a little lemon-juice
has been stirred.

12 to 18 minutes.

BROCCOLI.

This is boiled, and served in the same manner as cauliflowers
when the heads are large; the stems of the branching broccoli
are peeled, and the vegetable, tied in bunches, is dressed and
served, like asparagus, upon a toast.

10 to 20 minutes.

TO BOIL ARTICHOKES.

After they have been soaked and well washed, cut off the stems
quite close, trim away a few of the lower leaves, and clip the
points of all; throw the artichokes into plenty of fast-boiling
water, ready salted and skimmed, with the addition, if it be at
hand, of the proportion of soda directed in page 300, as this
will greatly improve the colour of the vegetable. When ex-
tremely young, the artichokes will be tender in from half to
three quarters of an hour, but they will require more than
double that time when at their full growth: when the leaves
can be drawn out easily they are done. Send good melted |
butter to table with them. They should be boiled always with
the stalk-ends uppermost.

Very young, } to ? hour; full-grown, 14 to 2 hours.

Obs.—F rench cooks lift the tops from the artichokes before
they are served, and replace them after having taken out the
chokes : this must be expeditiously done to prevent the vege-
table from cooling.

ARTICHOKES EN SALADE.

Wash, soak, and drain some very young and tender arti-
chokes (they should not have attained more than a third of
their growth), cut off the stalks close, quarter them, and send
them to table with a little water in the dish. The chokes will
be scarcely formed, and the remainder of the vegetable will
have almost the flavour of fresh walnuts : it is constantly served.

thus in France as a hors d’cuvre. "

= *
318 MODERN COOKERY. _—«&(CHAP. XV.

e
VEGETABLE MARROW.

It is customary to gather this when not larger than a turkey’s
egg, but we should say that the vegetable is not then in its
perfection. The flesh is whiter and of better flavour when the
gourd is about six inches long; at least we have found it so
with the kinds which have fallen under our observation. It
may either be boiled in the skin, then pared, halved, and |
served upon a toast; or quartered, freed from the seed, and left
until cold, then dipped into egg and fine crumbs of bread, and
fried; or it may be cut into dice, and reheated in a little good
white sauce; or stewed tender in butter, and served in well-
thickened veal gravy, flavoured with a little lemon-juice. It may
likewise be mashed by the receipt which we have given for tur-
nips, and in that form will be found excellent. The French
make a fanciful dish of the marrows thus: they boil them
tender in water, and halve them lengthwise as is usual, they
then slice a small bit off each to make them stand evenly in
the dish, and after having hollowed the insides, so as to leave a
mere shell, about half an inch thick, they fill them with a.
thick rich mince of white meat, and pour white sauce round
them; or they heap fried crumbs over the tops, place the dish in
the oven for a few minutes, and serve them without sauce.

Size of turkey’s egg, 10 to 15 minutes; moderate-sized, 20
to 30; large, 3 to 1 hour. 4

TOMATAS EN SALADE.

These are now often served in England in the American
fashion, merely sliced, and dressed like cucumbers, with salt,
pepper, oil, and vinegar. For various other American modes
of preparing them for table, see tomata dumplings, Chap-
ter XVI.

ROAST TOMATAS.
To serve with roast leg, loin, or shoulder of mutton.

Select them nearly of the same size, take off the stalks, and
roast them gently in a Dutch oven, or if more convenient,
place them at the edge of the dripping-pan, taking care that no
fat from the joint shall fall upon them, and keeping them
turned, that they may be equally done. From ten to fourteen
minutes will roast them.

STEWED TOMATAS.
Arrange them in a single layer, and pour to them as much

CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 319

gravy as will reach to half their height ; stew them very softly
until the under sides are done, then turn, and finish stewing
them. ‘Thicken the gravy with a little arrow-root and cream,
or with flour and butter, and serve it round them.

FORCED TOMATAS.

(English Receipt.)

Cut the stems quite close, slice off the tops of eight fine
tomatas, and scoop out the insides; press the pulp through a
sieve, and mix with it one ounce of fine crumbs of bread, one of
butter, broken very small, some pepper, or cayenne, and salt.
Fill the tomatas with the mixture, and bake them ten minutes
in a moderate oven ; serve them with brown gravy in the dish.
A few small mushrooms, stewed tender in a little butter, then
minced and added to the tomata pulp, will very much improve
this receipt.

' Baked 10 minutes.
FORCED TOMATAS.
(French Receipt.)

Let the tomatas be well shaped and of equal size; divide
them nearly in the middle, leaving the blossom-side the
largest, as this only is to be used; empty them carefully of
their seeds and juice, and fill them with the following ingre-
dients, which must previously be stewed tender in butter, but
without being allowed to brown: minced mushrooms and sha-
lots, with a moderate proportion of parsley, some lean of ham
chopped small, a seasoning of cayenne, and a little fine salt, if
needed; let them cool, then mix with them about a third as
much of fine crumbs of bread, and two yolks of eggs; fill the
tomatas, cover them with fine crumbs, moisten them with clari-
fied butter, and bake them in a brisk oven until they are well
coloured. Serve them as a garnish to stewed rump or sirloin
of beef, or to a boned and forced leg of mutton.

Minced lean of ham, 2 ozs.; mushrooms, 2 ozs.; bread-
crumbs, 2 ozs.; shalots, 4 to 8; parsley, full teaspoonful ;
cayenne, quarter saltspoonful; little salt, if needed; butter,
2 ozs. ; yolks of eggs, 2 to 3: baked, 10 to 20 minutes.

Obs.—The French pound the whole of these ingredients
with a bit of garlic, before they fill the tomatas with them, but
this is not absolutely necessary, and the garlic,. if added at all,
should be parboiled first, as its strong flavour, combined with
that of the eschalots, would scarcely suit the general taste.
When the lean of a dressed ham is at hand, only the herbs and
vegetables will need to be stewed in the butter; this should be

320 _ MODERN COOKERY. = {fCHAP. XV. —

mixed with them into the forcemeat; which an intelligent cook
will vary in many ways.

PUREE OF TOMATAS.

Divide a dozen fine ripe tomatas, squeeze out the seeds,
and take off the stalks; put them with one small mild onion
(or more, if liked), and about half a pint of very good gravy,
into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, and simmer them for
nearly or quite an hour; a couple of bay-leaves, some cayenne,
and as much salt as the dish may require should be added
when they begin to boil. Press them through a sieve, heat
them again, and stir to them a quarter-pint of good cream, pre-
viously mixed and boiled for five minutes with a teaspoonful of
flour. This purée is to be served with calf’s head, veal cutlets,
boiled knuckle of veal, calf’s brains, or beef palates. For
pork, beef, geese, and other brown meats, the tomatas should be
reduced to a proper consistency in rich and highly-flavoured
brown gravy, or Spanish sauce.

MUSHROOMS AU BEURRE.
(Delicious.)

Cut the stems from some fine meadow mushroom-buttons,
and clean them with a bit of new flannel, and some fine salt,
then either wipe them dry with a soft cloth, or rinse them in
fresh water, drain them quickly, spread them in a clean cloth,
fold it over them, and leave them ten minutes, or more, to
dry. For every pint of them thus prepared, put an ounce and
ahalf of fresh butter into a thick iron saucepan, shake it over
the fire until it just begins to brown, throw in the mushrooms,
continue to shake the saucepan over a clear fire, that they may
'. not stick to it, nor burn, and when they have simmered three
or four minutes, strew over them a little salt, some cayenne,
and pounded mace; stew them until they are perfectly tender,
heap them in a dish, and serve them with their own sauce only,
for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. Nothing can be finer than —
the flavour of the mushrooms thus prepared ; and the addition
of any liquid is far from an improvement to it. They are very
good when drained from the butter, and served cold, and in a
cool larder may be kept for several days. The butter in which ©
they are stewed is admirable for flavouring gravies, sauces, Or —
potted meats. Small flaps, freed from the fur and skin, may ©
be stewed in the same way; and either these, or the buttons,
served under roast poultry or partridges, will give a dish of
very superior relish.

321

CHAP. xv. | VEGETABLES.

Meadow mushrooms, 8 .pints, fresh butter;°4} ozs.: 3 to 5
minutes. Salt, 1 small teaspoonful; mace,*hdff as much ; ca-
yenne, third of saltspoonful: 10 to 15 minutes. More spices to
be added, if required—much depending on their quality; but
they should not overpower the flavour of the mushrooms.

Obs.—-Persons inhabiting parts of the country where mush-
rooms are abundant, may send them easily, when thus pre-
pared (or when potted by the following receipt), to their
friends in cities, or in less productive counties. If poured into
jars, with sufficient butter to cover them, they will travel any
distance, and can be rewarmed for use.

POTTED MUSHROOMS.

Prepare either small flaps or buttons with great nicety,
without wetting them, and wipe the former very dry, after the
application of the salt and flannel. Stew them quite tender,
with the same proportion of butter as the mushrooms au
beurre, but increase a little the quantity of spice; when they
are done turn them into a large dish, spread them over one end
of it, and raise it two or three inches that they may be well
drained from the butter. As soon as they are quite cold, press
them very closely into small potting-pans; pour lukewarm
clarified butter thickly over them, and store them in a cool dry
place. If intended for present use, merely turn them down
upon a clean shelf; but for longer keeping, cover the tops first
with very dry paper, and then with melted mutton-suet. We
have ourselves had the mushrooms, after being simply spread
upon a dish while hot, remain perfectly good in that state for
seven or eight weeks: they were prepared late in the season,

- and the weather was consequently cool during the interval.

MUSHROOM-TOAST, OR CROUTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
(L'xcellent.)

Cut the stems closely from a quart, or more, of small just-
opened mushrooms, peel them, and take out the fur. Divsolve
from two to three ounces of fresh butter in a well-tinned
saucepan or stewpan; put in the mushrooms, strew over them a
quarter-teaspoonful of pounded mace mixed with a little cayenne,
and let them stew over a gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes ;
toss or stir tnem often during the time; then add a small
dessertspoonful of flour, and shake the pam round until it is
lightly browned. Next pour in, by slow degrees, half a pint
- of gravy or of good beef-broth ; and when the mushrooms have —
stewed softly in this for a couple of minutes, throw in a little

ve fees si ;
322 © MODERN COOKERY. _ CHAP. xv.

salt, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and pour them on to a crust,
cut about an inch and a quarter thick, from the under part of a
moderate-sized loaf, and fried in good butter a light brown,
after having been first: slightly hollowed in the inside. New
milk, or thin cream, may be used with very good effect instead
of the gravy; but a few strips of lemon-rind, and a small por-
tion of nutmeg and mushroom-catsup should then be added to
the sauce. The bread may be buttered and grilled over a gentle
fire instead of being fried, and is better so.

Small. mushrooms, 4 to 5 half pints; butter, 3 to 4 ozs.;
mace, mixed with a little cayenne, + teaspoonful: stewed softly
10 to 15 minutes. Flour, 1 small dessertspoonful: 3 to 5
minutes. Gravy or broth, 3 pint: 2 minutes. Little salt and
lemon-juice.

TRUFFLES.

The truffle is so scantily produced in England, and it is so
expensive, even in the countries where it is both of finer and
more abundant growth, that it is little served here as a vegetable,
except at the tables of the wealthier classes. As we cannot, from
our own experience, give receipts for dressing it, in the various
modes which follow we cite the best French authority on the ~
subject.*

TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE, A LA SERVIETTE.

Select the finest truffles for this dish, be particular in smelling
them, and reject any that have a musty smell. Wash and brush
them well with cold water only, change it several times, and
when they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of
bacon ; put in the truffles with a bunch of parsley, green onions,
and thyme, two or three bay-leaves, half a dozen cloves, and a
little sweet basil; pour in sufficient rich veal gravy to cover
them, with the addition of from half a pint to half a bottle of
champagne; boil them very softly for an hour, then draw them
aside and let them cool in the gravy. Heat them afresh in it
when they are wanted for table; lift them out and drain them
in a very clean cloth, and dish them neatly in a fine and beau-
tifully white napkin, which shall contrast as strongly as possible
with the dark hue of the truffles.

* We have had very good bottled truffies from Mr. Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall,
which answer extremely well for pies and forcemeats, when the season of the
fresh root is passed: they are steamed, we apprehend, like bottled fruit, and
must have the air excluded from them as carefully,

7
CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES, 323

TRUFFLES A LITALIENNE.

Wash perfectly clean, wipe, and pare some truffles as thin as
possible; slice them about the size of a penny; put them into a
sauté-pan (or small frying-pan), with a slice of fresh butter,
some minced parsley and eschalot, salt and pepper; put them
on the fire and stir them, that they may fry equally; when
they are done, which will be in about ten minutes, drain off
part of the butter, and throw ina bit of fresh, a small ladleful
of Spanish sauce (see page 88), the juice of one lemon, and a
little cayenne pepper. This is a dish of high relish.

TO BOIL SPROUTS, CABBAGES, SAVOYS, LETTUCES, OR ENDIVE.

All green vegetables should be thrown into abundance of
fast boiling water ready salted and skimmed, with the addition
of the morsel of soda which we have recommended, in a pre-
vious page of this chapter; the pan should be left uncovered,
and every precaution taken to prevent the smoke from reaching
its contents. Endive, sprouts, and spring greens, will only re-
quire copious washing before they are boiled; but savoys, large
lettuces, and close-leaved cabbages should be thrown into salt
and water for half an hour or more before they are dressed,
with the tops downwards to draw out the insects. The stems of
these last should be cut off, the decayed leaves stripped away,
and the vegetable halved or quartered, or split deeply across the
stalk-end, and divided entirely before it is dished.

Very young greens, 15 to 20 minutes; lettuces, 20 to 30
minutes; large savoys, or cabbages, 1 to 14 hour, or more.

Obs.—When the stalk of any kind of cabbage is tender, it
is done. ‘Turnip-greens should be well washed in several
waters, and boiled in a very large quantity to deprive them of
their bitterness.

STEWED CABBAGE.

Cut out the stalk entirely, and slice a fine firm cabbage or
two in very thin strips; throw them after they have been well
washed and drained, into a large pan of boiling water ready
salted and skimmed, and when they are tender, which will be in
from ten to fifteen minutes, pour them into a sieve or strainer,

ress the water thoroughly from them, and chop them slightly.
Put into a very clean saucepan about a couple of ounces of
butter, and when it is dissolved add the cabbage, with sufficient
‘pepper and salt to season it, and stir it over a clear fire until it
appears tolerably dry ; then shake lightly in a tablespoonful of

324 MODERN COOKERY. [cuap. xv.

flour, turn the whole well, and add by slow degrees a cup of
thick cream : veal gravy or good white sauce may be substituted
for this, when preferred to it.

TO BOIL TURNIPS.

Pare entirely from them the stringy rind, and either split the
turnips once or leave them whole; throw them into boiling
water slightly salted, and keep them closely covered from smoke
and dust till they are tender. When small and young they
will be done in from fifteen to twenty minutes; at their full
growth they will require from three quarters to a full hour,
or more, of gentle boiling. After they become old and woolly
they are not worth dressing in any way. When boiled in their
skins and pared afterwards, they are said to be of better flavour
and much. less watery than when cooked in the usual way.

Young turnips, 15 to 20 minutes: full grown, 2 to 1 hour, or
more.

TO MASH TURNIPS.

Split them once or even twice should they be large; after
they are pared, boil them very tender, and press the water
thoroughly from them with a couple of trenchers, or with the
back of a large plate and one trencher. ‘To ensure their being
free from lumps, it is better to pass them through a cullender
or coarse hair-sieve, with a wooden spoon; though, when quite
. young, they may be worked sufficiently smooth without this.
Put them into a clean saucepan, and stir them constantly for
some minutes over a gentle fire, that they may be very dry;
then add some salt, a bit of fresh butter, and a little cream, or
in lieu of this new milk (we would also recommend a seasoning
of white pepper or cayenne, when appearance and fashion are
not particularly regarded), and continue to simmer and to stir
them for five or six minutes longer, or until they have quite
absorbed all the liquid which has been poured to them. Serve
them always as hot as possible. This is an excellent receipt.

Turnips, weighed after they are pared, 3 lbs.: dried 5 to 8
minutes. Salt, 1 teaspoonful ; butter, 1 oz. to 14 oz.; cream or
milk, nearly 3 pint: 5 or 6 minutes.

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. (ENTREMETS.)

When no scoop for the purpose is at hand, cut some small
finely-grained turnips into quarters, and pare them into balls,
or into the shape of plums or pears of equal size ; arrange them
evenly in a broad stewpan or saucepan, and cover them nearly

CHAP, XV. ] VEGETABLES. 325

with good veal broth, throw in a little salt, and a morsel of
sugar, and boil them rather quickly until they are quite tender,
but unbroken; lift them out, draining them well from the
broth ; dish, and pour over them some thick white sauce. As
an economy, a cup of cream, and a teaspoonful of arrowroot,
may be added to the broth in which the turnips have stewed, to
make the sauce; and when it boils, a small slice of butter may
be stirred and well worked into it, should it not be sufficiently
rich without.

TURNIPS STEWED IN BUTTER. (GOOD.)

This is an excellent way of dressing the vegetable when it is
mild and finely grained ; but its flavour otherwise is too strong
to be agreeable. After they have been washed, wiped quite,
dry, and pared, slice the turnips nearly half an inch thick, and
divide them into dice. Just dissolve an ounce of butter for
each half-pound of the turnips, put them in as flat as they can
be, and stew them very gently indeed, from three quarters of
an hour to a full hour. Add a seasoning of salt and white
pepper when they are half done. When thus prepared, they
may be dished over fried or nicely broiled mutton cutlets, or
served by themselves.

For a small dish ; turnips, 14 lb.; butter, 3 ozs. ; seasoning of
white pepper; salt, } teaspoonful, or more: ? to 1 hour. Large
dish, turnips, 2 lbs.; butter, 4 ozs.

TURNIPS IN GRAVY.

To a pound of turnips sliced and cut into dice, pour a quar-
ter-pint of boiling veal gravy, add a small lump of sugar, some
salt and cayenne, or white pepper, and boil them quickly from
fifty to sixty minutes. Serve them very hot.

TO BOIL CARROTS.

Wash the mould from them, and scrape the skin off lightly
with the edge of a sharp knife, or, should this be objected to,
pare them as thin and as equally as possible; in either case free
them from all blemishes, and should they be very large, split
them across the tops a few inches down; rinse them well, and
throw them into plenty of boiling water with some salt in it.
The skin of very young carrots may be rubbed off like that of
new potatoes, and from twenty to thirty minutes will then be
. sufficient to boil them; but at their full growth they will re-
quire from an hour and a half to two hours. It was formerly
the custom to tie them in a cloth, and to wipe the skin from

326 MODERN COOKERY. | [ CHAP. Xv.

them with it after they were dressed; and old-fashioned cooks

still use one to remove it ;- but all vegetables should, we think, ©

be dished and served with the least possible delay after they
are ready for table. Melted butter should accompany boiled
carrots.

Very young carrots, 20.to 30 minutes. Full-grown ones, 1}
to 2 hours.

CARROTS. (ENTREE.)
(The Windsor Receipt.)

Select some good carrots of equal size, and cut the upper
parts into even lengths of about two inches and a half, then trim
one end of each into a point, so as to give the carrot the form
of a sugar-loaf.* When all are ready, throw them into plenty
of ready-salted boiling water, and boil them three quarters of
an hour. Lift them out, and drain them well, then arrange
them upright, and all on a level in a broad stewpan or sauce-
pan, and pour in good hot beef-broth, or veal pravy to half
their height; add as much salt as may be needed, and a small
teaspoonful of sugar, and boil them briskly for half an hour,
or longer, should they require it. Place them again upright in
dishing them, and keep them hot while a little good brown
gravy is thickened to pour over them, and mixed with a large
teaspoonful of parsley and a little lemon-juice; or sauce them
with common béchamel (see page 97), or white sauce, with or
without the addition of parsley.

Thick part of carrots cut in cones: boiled 3 hour. With
gravy or broth, little salt and sugar: } hour, or more. Sauce:
thickened gravy, béchamel made without meat, or common
white sauce.

Obs.—The carrots dressed thus are exceedingly good without.

any sauce, beyond the small quantity of liquid which will re-
main in the stewpan with them; or with a few spoonsful more
of gravy added to this, and thickened with butter and a little
flour.

SWEET CARROTS. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil quite tender some fine highly-flavoured carrots, press
the water from them, and rub them through the back of a
fine hair-sieve; put them into a clean saucepan or stewpan,
and dry them thoroughly over a gentle fire; then add a slice of
fresh butter, and when this is dissolved and well mixed with
them, strew in a dessertspounful or more of powdered sugar,

* See plate, page 299.

CHAP. Xv.] VEGETABLES, 327

and a little salt; next, stir in by degrees some good cream, and
when this is quite absorbed, and the carrots again appear dry,
dish and serve them quickly with small sippets, a la Reine (see
page 5), placed round them.

Carrots, 3 lbs., boiled quite tender: stirred over a gentle fire
5 to 10 minutes. Butter, 2 0zs.; salt, } teaspoonful; pounded
sugar, 1 dessertspoonful; cream, } pint, stewed gently together
until quite dry. |

Obs.—For excellent mashed carrots omit the sugar, add a
good seasoning of salt and white pepper, and half a pint of rich
brown gravy; or for a plain dinner rather less than this of
milk.

CARROTS AU BEURRE, OR BUTTERED CARROTS.

Either boil sufficient carrots for a dish quite tender, and then
cut them into slices a quarter-inch thick, or first slice, and then
boil them: the latter method is the most expeditious, but the
other best preserves the flavour of the vegetable. Drain them
well, and while this is being done just dissolve from two to four
ounces of butter in a saucepan, and strew in some minced
parsley, some salt, and white pepper or cayenne; then add the
carrots, and toss them very gently until they are equally
covered with the sauce, which should not be allowed to boil:
the parsley may be omitted at pleasure. Cold carrots may be
rewarmed in this way.

TO BOIL PARSNEPS.

These are dressed in precisely the same manner as carrots,
but require much less boiling. According to their quality and
the time of year, they will take from twenty minutes to nearly
an hour. Every speck or blemish should be cut from them
after they are scraped, and the water in which they are boiled
should be well skimmed. ‘They are a favourite accompaniment
to salt-fish and boiled pork, and may be served either mashed
or plain.

20 to 55 minutes.

FRIED PARSNEPS.

Boil them until they are about half done, lift them out, and
let them cool; slice them rather thickly, sprinkle them with
fine salt and white pepper, and fry them a pale brown in good
butter. Serve them with roast meat, or dish them under it.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
Wash the artichokes, pare them quickly, and throw them as

328 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X¥.,

they are done into a saucepan of cold water, or of equal parts
of milk and water; and when they are about half boiled add a
little salt to them. ‘Take them up the instant they are perfectly
tender : this will be in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, so-
much do they vary as to the time necessary to dressthem. If
allowed to remain in the water after they are done, they become
black and flavourless. Melted butter should always be sent to
table with them. Bey
15 to 25 minutes.

TO FRY JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil them from eight to twelve minutes ; lift them out, drain
them on a sieve, and let them cool; dip them into beaten eggs,
and cover them with fine bread-crumbs. Fry them a light
brown, drain, pile them in a hot dish, and serve them quickly. -

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A LA REINE.™ °

Wash and wipe the artichokes, cut off one end of each quite
flat, and trim the other into a point ; boil them in milk and
water, lift them out the instant they are done, place them
upright in the dish in which they are to be served, and sauce
them with a good béchamel, or with nearly half a pint of
cream thickened with a small dessertspoonful of flour, mixed
with an ounce and a half of butter, and seasoned with a little
mace and some salt. When cream cannot be procured use new
milk, and increase the proportion of flour and butter; though
the sauce thus made will serve only for a family dinner.

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

Boil them tender, press the water well from them, and then
proceed exactly as for mashed turnips, taking care to dry the
artichokes well, both before and after the milk or cream is
added to them; they will be excellent if good white sauce is
substituted fur either of these.

HARICOTS BLANCS.

The haricot blanc is the seed of a p2riicular kind of French
bean, of which we find some difficulty in ascertaining the
English name, for though we have tricd several which resems
bled it in appearance, we have found ther flavour, after they
were dressed, very different, and far from agreeable. The large
white Dutch runner, is, we b-lieve, the proper variety for

* See plate, page 299,

CHAP. Xv. | VEGETABLES, 329

cooking ; at least we have obtained a small quantity under that
name, which approached much more nearly than any others we
had tricd to those which we had eaten abroad. The haricots,
when freshly harvested, may be thrown into plenty of boiling
water, with some salt and a small bit of butter; if old, they
must be previously soaked for an hour or two, put into cold
water, brought to boil gently, and simmered until they are
tender, for if boiled fast the skins will burst before the beans
are done. Drain them thoroughly from the water when they
are ready, and lay them into a clean saucepan over twe or three
eunces of fresh butter, a small dessertspoonful of chopped
parsley, and sufficient salt and pepper to season the whole;
then gently shake or toss the beans until they are quite hot
and equally covered with the sauce; add the strained juice of
half a lemon, and serve them quickly. The vegetable thus
dressed, is excellent ; and it affords a convenient resource in the
season when the supply of other kinds is scantiest. In some
countries the dried beans are placed in water, over-night, upon
a stove (those invented by Dr. Arnott* would, from the perfect
regulation of the heat, answer for the purpose better than
most others, we apprehend), and by a very gentle degree of
warmth are sufficiently softened by the following day to be
served as follows :—they are drained from the water, spread on
a cle n cloth and wiped quite dry, then lightly floured and fried
in oil or butter, with a seasoning of pepper and salt, lifted into
a hot dish, and served under roast beef, or mutton.

TO BOIL BEET ROOT.

Wash the roots delicately clean, but neither scrape nor cut
them, as not a fibre even should be trimmed away, until after
they are dressed. Throw them into boiling water, and accord-
‘ing to their size boil them from one hour and a half to two hours
and a half. Pare and serve them whole, or thickly sliced, and
send melted butter to table with them. JBeet-root is often
mixed with winter salads; and it makes a pickle of beautiful
colour; but one of the most usual modes of serving it at the
present day is, with the cheese, cold and merely pared and
sliced, after having been boiled or baked.

1} to 2} hours. Baked, 2} to 341 hours.

Obs.—This root must not be probed with a fork like other
vegetables, to ascertain if it be done or not; but the cook

* So many impositions are practised on the public with regard to these stoves,

that we think it well to name Mr. Livermore, 30, Oxford-street, as an authorized
and excellent constructor of the genuine ones.

830 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XV.

must endeavour, by attention, to learn the time required for it.
After it is lifted out, the thickest part may be pressed with the
fingers, to which it will yield, if it be sufficiently boiled.

TO BAKE BEET ROOT.

Beet root, if slowly and carefully baked until it is tender quite
through, is very rich and sweet in flavour, although less bright
in colour than when it is boiled: it is also, we believe, remark-
ably nutritious and wholesome. Wash and wipe it very dry,
but neither cut nor break any part of it; then lay it imto a
coarse dish, and bake it in a gentle oven for four or five hours:
it will sometimes require even a longer time than this. Pare it
quickly if to be served hot; but leave it to cool first, when it is
to be sent to table cold.

The white beet root is dressed exactly like the red : the leaves
of it are boiled and served like asparagus.

In slow oven from 4 to 6 hours.

STEWED BEET ROOT.

Bake or boil it tolerably tender, and let it remain until it is
cold, then pare and cut it into slices; heat and stew it for a short.
time in some good pale veal gravy (or in strong veal broth for
ordinary occasions), thicken this with a teaspoonful of arrow-
root, and half a cupful or more of good cream, and stir in, as it is
taken from the fire, from a tea to a table spoonful of Chili vine-
gar. ‘The beet root may be served likewise in thick white sauce,
to which, just before it 1s dished, the mild eschalots of page 164
may be added.

TO STEW RED CABBAGE.
(Flemish Receipt.)

Strip the outer leaves from a fine and fresh red cabbage; wash
it well, and cut it into the thinnest possible slices, beginning at
the top; put it into a thick saucepan in which two or three
ounces of good butter have been just dissolved ; add some pepper
and salt, and stew it very slowly indeed for three or four hours
in its own juice, keeping it often stirred, and well pressed down. .
When it is perfectly tender add a tablespoonful of vinegar ;
mix the whole up thoroughly, heap the cabbage in a hot dish,
and serve broiled sausages round it; or omit these last, and
substitute lemon-juice, cayenne pepper, and a half-cupful of
good gravy.

The stalk of the cabbage should be split in quarters and taken
entirely out in the first instance.

3 to 4 hours.

CHAP. Xv.] VEGETABLES. _ 331

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

These delicate little sprouts, or miniature cabbages, should be
gathered when not larger than a common walnut, and after
being trimmed free from any decayed leaves, and washed very
thoroughly, should be thrown into a pan of water properly
salted, and boiled from eight to ten minutes, then well drained,
and served upon a rather thick round of toasted bread, buttered |
on both sides. Rich melted butter must be sent to table with
them. ‘This is the Belgian mode of dressing this excellent vege-
table, which is served in France with the sauce poured over it,
or it is tossed in a stewpan with a slice of butter and some pep-

er and salt: a spoonful or two of veal gravy (and sometimes a
ittle lemon-iuice) is added when these are perfectly mixed.

8 to 10 minutes. .

SALSIFY.

We are surprised that a vegetable so excellent as this should
_ be so little cared for in England. Delicately fried in batter,—
which is a common mode of serving it abroad,—it forms both an
elegant and delicious second course dish: it is also good when
plain - boiled, drained, and served in gravy, or even with
melted butter. Wash the roots, scrape gently off the dark
outside skin, and throw them into cold water as they are
done, to prevent their turning black; cut them into lengths
of three or four inches, and when all are ready put them into
plenty of boiling water, with a little salt, a small bit of butter,
and a couple of spoonsful of white vinegar, or the juice of a
lemon : they will be done in from three quarters of an hour to
an hour. Try them with a fork, and when perfectly tender,
drain, and serve them with white sauce, rich brown gravy, or
melted butter.

3 to 1 hour.

FRIED SALSIFY. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil the salsify tender, as directed above, drain, and then
press it lightly in a soft cloth. Make some French batter (see
page 129), throw the bits of salsify into it, take them out sepa-
rately, and fry them a light brown, drain them well from the fat,
sprinkle a little fine salt over them after they are dished, and
serve them quickly. At English tables, salsiffy occasionally
makes its appearance fried with egg and bread-crumbs instead
of batter. Scorgonera is dressed in precisely the same manner
as the salsify.

332 MODERN COOKERY. [oHar. Xv.

BOILED CELERY.

This vegetable is extremely good dressed like sea-kale, and
served on a toast with rich melted butter. Let it be freshly
dug, wash it with great nicety, trim the ends, take off the coarse
outer-leaves, cut the roots of equal length, tie them in bunches,
and boil them in plenty of water, with the usual proportion of
salt, from twenty to thirty minutes.

20 to 80 minutes.

STEWED CELERY.

Cut five or six fine roots of celery to the length of the inside
of the dish in which they are to be served; free them from all
the coarser leaves, and from the green tops, trim the root ends
neatly, and wash the vegetable in several waters till it is as
clean as possibie ; then, either boil it tender with a little salt,
and a bit of fresh butter the size of a walnut, in just sufficient
water to cover it quite, drain it well, arrange it on @ very hot
dish, and pour a thick béchamel, or white sauce over it; or
stew it in broth or common stock, and serve it with very rich,
thickened, Espagnole or brown gravy. It has a higher flavour
when partially stewed in the sauce, after being drained
thoroughly from the broth. Unless very large and old, it will
be done in from twenty-five to thirty minutes, but if not quite
tender, longer time must be allowed for it. A cheap and
expeditious method of preparing this dish is to slice the celery,
to simmer it until soft in as much good broth as will only just
cover it, and to add a thickening of flour and butter, or arrow-
root, with some salt, pepper, and a small cupful of cream.

25 to 30 minutes, or more.

STEWED ONIONS.

Strip the outer skin from four or five fine Portugal onions,
and trim the ends, but without cutting into the vegetable;
arrange them in a saucepan of sufficient size to contain them all
in one layer; just cover them with good beef, or veal gravy,
and stew them very gently indeed for a couple of hours: they
should be tender quite through, but should not be allowed to
fall to pieces. When large, but not mz/d onions are used, they
should be first boiled for half an hour in plenty of water, then
drained from it, and put into boiling gravy: strong, well-
flavoured broth of veal or beef, is sometimes substituted for
this, and with the addition of a little catsup, spice, and thick-
ening answers very well. ‘The savour of this dish is heightened

CHAP. Xv. | VEGETABLES, 333

by flouring lightly and frying the onions of a pale brown before
they are stewed.

Portugal onions, 4 or 5 (if fried, 15 to 20 minutes) ; broth or
gravy, 1 to 13 pint: nearly or quite 2 hours.
~ Obs.—When the quantity of gravy is considered too much,
the onions may be only half covered, and turned when the
under side is tender, but longer time must then be allowed
for stewing them.

, STEWED CHESTNUTS.

Strip the outer rind from forty or fifty fine sound Spanish
chestnuts, throw them into a large saucepan of hot water, and
bring it to the point of boiling; when the second skin parts
from them easily, lift them out, and throw them into plenty of
cold water; peel, and wipe them dry, then put them into a
stewpan or bright saucepan, with as much highly-fiavoured cold
beef or veal gravy as will nearly cover them, and stew them
very gently from three-quarters of an hour to a full hour: they
should be quite tender, but unbroken. Add salt, cayenne, or
thickening, if required, and serve the chestnuts in their gravy.
We have found it an improvement to have them floured and
lightly browned in a little good butter before they are stewed,
and also to add some thin strips of fresh lemon-rind to the

avy:

Chestnuts, 40 or 50; gravy, 3 pint, or more: 3 to 1 hour.

Obs.—A couple of bay-leaves and a slice of lean ham will
give an improved flavour to the sauce should it not be suffi-
ciently rich: the ham should be laid under the chestnuts, but
not served with them. When these are to be browned, or even
otherwise, they may be freed readily from the second skin by
shaking them with a small bit of butter in a frying-pan over a
gentle fire.

334 pee MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP, XVI.

CHAPTER XVL

PASTRY.

Mould for French Pies, or Casseroles of Rice.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

TuE greatest possible cleanliness and nicety should be observed
in making pastry. The slab or board, paste-rollers, tins, cutters,
stamps, everything, in fact, used for it, and especially the hands
(for these last are not always so scrupulously attended to as
they ought to be), should be equally free from the slightest
soil or particle of dust. ‘The more expeditiously the finer kinds
of crust are made and despatched to the oven, and the less they
are touched the better. Much of their excellence depends upon
the baking also; they should have a sufficient degree of heat to
raise them quickly, but not so fierce a one as to colour them too
much before they are done, and still less to burn them. The
oven door should remain closed after they are put in, and not
be removed until the paste is set. Large raised pies require a
steadily sustained, or, what is technically called a soaking heat,
and to ensure this the oven should be made very hot, then
cleared, and closely shut from half to a whole hour before it is
used, to concentrate the heat. It is an advantage in this case to
have a large log or two of cord-wood burned -in it, in addition
to the usual firing.

In mixing paste, the water should be added gradually, and
the whole gently drawn together with the fingers, until sufii-
cient has been added, when it should be lightly kneaded until it
is as smooth as possible. When carelessly made, the surface is
often left covered with small dry crumbs or lumps; or the water
is poured in heedlessly in so large a proportion that it becomes
necessary to add more flour to render it workable in any way;
and this ought particularly to be avoided when a certain weight
of all the ingredients has been taken.

—
sin

CHAP. XVI. | PASTRY. | 335

~TO GLAZE OR ICE PASTRY.

The fine yellow glaze appropriate to meat pies is given with
beaten yolk of egg, which should be laid on with a paste brush,
or a small bunch of feathers: if a lighter colour be wished for,
aru ae whole of the egg together, or mix a little milk with
the yolk.

The best mode of icing fruit-tarts before they are sent to the
oven is, to moisten the paste with cold water, to sift sugar
thickly upon it, and to press it lightly on with the hand; but
when a whiter icing is preferred, the pastry must be drawn from
the oven when nearly baked, and brushed with white of egg,
whisked to a froth; then well covered with the sifted sugar, and
sprinkled with a few drops of water before it is put in again:
this glazing answers also very well, though it takes a slight
colour, if used before the pastry is baked.

FEUILLETAGE, OR FINE FRENCH PUFF PASTE.

This, when made by a good French cook, is the perfection of
rich light crust, and wil! rise in the oven from one to six inches
in height; but some practice is, without doubt, necessary to
accomplish this. In summer it is a great advantage to have ice
at hand, and to harden the butter over it before it is used; the
paste also between the intervals of rolling is improved by being
laid on an oven-leaf over a vessel containing it. Take an equal
weight of good butter free from the coarse salt which is found
in some, and which is disadvantageous for this paste, and of fine
dry, sifted flour; to each pound of these allow the yolks of a
couple of eggs, and a small teaspoonful of salt. Break a few
small bits of the butter very lightly into the flour, put the salt
into the centre, and pour on it sutlicient water to dissolve it (we
do not quite understand why the doing this should be better
than mixing it with the flour, as in other pastes, but such is the
method always pursued for it); add a little more water to the
eggs, moisten the flour gradually, and make it into a very
smooth paste, rather lithe in summer, and never exceedingly
stiff, though the opposite fault, in an extreme, would render the
crust unmanageable. Press, in a soft thin cloth, all the mois-
ture from the remainder of the butter, and form it into a ball,
but in doing this be careful not to soften it too much. Should
it be in av unfit state for pastry, from the heat of the weather,
put it into a basin, and set the basin in a pan of water mixed
with plenty of salt and saltpetre, and let it remain in a cool
place for an hour if possible, before it is used. When it is

ode Tk Ves) on

—

336 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XVI.

ready (and the paste should never be commenced until it he so),

roll the crust out square,* and of sufficient size to enclose the
butter, flatten this a little upon it in the centre, and then fold
the crust well over it, and roll it out thin as lightly as possible,
after having dredged the board and paste roller with a little
flour: this is called giving it one turn. ‘Then fold it in three,
give it another turn, and set it aside, where it will be very cool,
for a few minutes; give it two more turns in the same way,
rolling it each time very lightly, but of equal thickness, and to
the full length that it will reach, taking always especial care
that the butter shall not break through the paste. Let it again
be set aside to become cold; and after it has been twice more
rolled and folded in three, give it a half-turn, by folding it once
only, and it will be ready for use.

Equal weight of the finest flour and good butter; to each
pound of these, the yolks of two eggs, and a small saltspoonful
of salt: 63 turns to be given to the paste.

VERY GOOD LIGHT PASTE.

Mix with a pound of sifted flour six ounces of fresh, pure
lard, and make them into a smooth paste with cold water ; press
the buttermilk from ten ounces of butter, and form it into a
ball, by twisting it in a clean cloth. Roll out the paste, put
the ball of butter in the middle, close it like an apple-dumpling,
and roll it very lightly until it is less than an inch thick; fold the
ends into the niiddle, dust a little flour ove? the board and
paste-roller, and roll the paste thin a second time, then set it
aside for three or four minutes in a very cool place; give it two
more turns, and after it has again been left for a few miuutes, roll
it out twice more, folding it each time in three. ‘This ought to
render it fit for use. The sooner this paste is sent to the oven
after it is made, the lighter it will be: if allowed to remain long
before it is baked, it will be tough and heavy. :

Flour, 1 Ib.; lard, 6 ozs.; butter, 10 ozs.; little salt.

ENGLISH PUFF-PASTE.

Break lightly into a couple of pounds of dried and sifted
flour, eight ounces of butter; add a pinch of salt, and sufficient
cold water to make the paste; work it as quickly and as lightly

as possible, until it is smooth and pliable, then level it with the |

paste-roller until it is three quarters of an inch thick, and place

regularly upon it six ounces of' butter in small bits; fold the

* The learner will perhaps find it easier to fold the paste securely round it in
the form of a dumpling, until a little experience has been acquired.

CHAP. XVI. | PASTRY ~ 8387

paste like a blanket pudding, roll it out again, lay on it six
ounces more of butter, repeat the rolling, dusting each time a
little flour over the board and paste, add again six ounces of
butter, and roll the paste out thin three or four times, folding
the ends into the middle.

Flour, 2 lbs. ; little salt; butter, 1 Ib. 10 ozs.

If very rich paste be required, equal portions of flour and
butter must be used; and the latter may be divided into two,
instead of three parts, when it is to be rolled in.

CREAM CRUST.
(Very good.)

Stir a little fine salt into a pound of dry flour, and mix gra-
“dually with it sufficient very thick, sweet cream to form a smooth
paste; it will be found sufficiently good for common family
dinners, without the addition of butter; but to make an excellent
crust, roll in four ounces in the usual way, after having given
the paste a couple of turns. Handle it as lightly as possible in
making it, and send it to the oven as soon as it is ready; it may
be used for fruit tarts, cannelons, puffs, and other varieties of
small pastry, or for good meat pies. Six ounces of butter to the
pound of flour will give a very rich crust.

Flour, 1 lb.; salt, 1 small saltspoonful (more for meat pies) ;
rich cream, 3 to ? pint; butter, 4 ozs.; for richest crust, 6 ozs.

PATE BRISEE, OR FRENCH CRUST FOR HOT OR COLD
MEAT PIES.

Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine dry flour, and break
into it one pound of butter, work them together with the fingers
until they resemble fine crumbs of bread, then add a small tea-
spoonful of salt, and make them into a firm paste, with the
yolks of four eggs, well beaten, mixed with half a pint of cold
water, and strained: or for a somewhat richer crust of the same
kind, take two pounds of flour, one of butter, the yolks of
four eggs, half an ounce of salt, and less than the half pint of
water, and work the wliole well until the paste is perfectly
smooth.

Flour, 23 Ibs.; butter, 1 Ib.; salt, 1 small teaspoonful; yolks
of eggs, 4; water, } pint. Or: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 1 Ib.;
yolks of eggs, 4; water, less than 3 pint.

FLEAD CRUST.

Flead is the provincial name for the leaf, or inside fat of a

pig, which makes excellent crust when fresh, much finer, indeed,
Z

338 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XVI.

than after it is melted into lard. Clear it quite from skin, and —
slice it very thin into the flour, add sufficient salt to give flavour
to the paste, and make the whole up smooth and firm with cold
water; lay it on a clean dresser, and beat it forcibly with a
rolling-pin until the flead is blended perfectly with the flour.
It may then be made into cakes with a paste-cutter, or used for
pies, round the edges of which a knife should be passed, as the
crust rises better when cut than if merely rolled to the proper
size. With the addition of a small quantity of butter, which
may either be broken inte the flour before the flead is mixed
with it, or rolled into the paste after it is beaten, it will be found
equal to fine puff crust, with the advantage of being more easy
of digestion. .

Quite common crust: flour, 14 Ib.; flead, 8 ozs.; salt, 1 small:
teaspoonful. Good common crust: flout, 1 1b.; flead, 6 ozs. ;
butter, 2 ozs. Rich crust: flead, 2 lb.; butter, 2 ozs.; flour,
1 lb. The crust is very good when made without any butter.

COMMON SUET-CRUST FOR PIES.

In many families this is preferred both for pies and tarts, to
crust made with butter, as beg much more wholesome; but it
should never be served unless especially ordered, as it is to some
persons peculiarly distasteful. Chop the suet extremely small,
and add from six to eight ounces of it to a pound of flour, with
a few grains of salt ; mix these with cold water into a firm paste,
and work it very smooth. Some-cooks beat it with a paste-
rolier, until the suet is perfectly blended with the flour; but the
crust is lighter without this. In exceedingly sultry weather the
suet, not being firm enough to chop, may be sliced as thin as
possible, and well beaten into the paste after it-is worked up.

Flour, 2 Ibs.; beef or veal kidney-suet, 12 to 16 ozs.; salt
(for fruit-pies), + teaspoonful, for meat-pies, 1 teaspoonful.

VERY SUPERIOR SUET-CRUST.

Strip the skin entirely from some fresh veal or beef kidney-
suet; chop, and then put it into the mortar, with a small quan-
tity of pure-flavoured lard, oil, or butter, and pound it perfectly
smooth: it may then be used for crust in the same way that
butter is, in making puff-paste, and in this form will be found
a most excellent substitute for it, for hot pies or tarts. It is not
quite so good for those which are to be served cold. Eight
ounces of suet pounded with two of butter, and worked with the
fingers into a pound of flour, will make an exceedingly good

CHAP, XVI. ] ” PASTRY. 339

short crust; but for a very rich one the proportion must be in-
creased.

Good short crust: flour, 1 Ib.; suet, 8 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs. ;
salt, } teaspoonful. Richer crust: suet, 16 ozs.; butter, 4 0zs.5
flour, 14 lb.; salt, 1 small teaspoonful.

VERY RICH SHORT CRUST FOR TARTS.

Break lightly, with the least possible handling, six ounces of
butter into eight of flour; add a dessertspoontul of pounded
sugar, and two or three of water; roll the paste, for several

‘minutes, to blend the ingredients well, folding it together like

puff-crust, and touch it as little as possible.
Flour, 8 ozs. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; pounded sugar, 1 dessertspoon-
ful; water, 1 to 2 spoonsful.

BRIOCHE PASTE.

The brioche is arich, light kind of unsweetened bun, or cake,
very commonly sold, and served to all classes of people in
France, where it is made in great perfection by good cooks and
pastrycooks. It is fashionable now at lnglish tables, though in
a different form, serving principally as a crust to enclose rissoles,
or to make cannelons and fritters. We have seen it recom-
mended for a vol-au-vent, for which we should say it does not
answer by any means so well as the fine puff-paste called
feuilletage. The large proportion of butter and eggs which it
contains render it to many persons highly indigestible ; and we
mention this to warn invalids against it, as we have known it to

_ cause great suffering to persons out of health. To make it, take

a couple of pounds* of fine dry flour, sifted as for cakes, and
separate eight ounces of this from the remainder to make the
leaven. Put it into a small pan, and mix it lightly into a lithe
paste, with half an ounce of yeast, and a spoonful or two of
warm water ; make two or three slight incisions across the top,
throw a cloth over the pan, and place it near the fire for about
twenty minutes, to rise. In the interval make a hollow space
in the centre of the remainder of the flour, and put into it half
an ounce of salt, as much fine sifted sugar, and half a gill of
cream, or a dessertspoonful of water; add a pound of butter,
as free from moisture as it can be, and quite so from large

* It should be remarked, that the directions for brioche-making are principally
derived from the French, and that the pound in their country weighs two ounces
more than with us: this difference will account for the difficulty of working in
the number of eggs which they generally specify, and which render the paste too
moist.

340 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XVI.

grains of salt; cut it into small bits, put it into the flour, and
pour on it one by one six fresh eggs freed from the specks ;
then with the fingers work the flour gently into this mass until
the whole forms a perfectly smooth, and not stiff paste: a
' seventh egg, or the yolk of one, or even of two, may be added
with advantage if the flour will absorb them ; but the brioche
must always be workable, and not so moist as to adhere to the
board and roller disagreeably. When the leayen is well risen
spread this paste out, and the leaven over it; mix them well
together with the hands, then cut the whole into several por-
tions, and change them about that the leaven may be incorpo-
rated perfectly and equally with the other ingredients: when
this is done, and the brioche is perfectly smooth and pliable,
dust some fiour on a cloth, roll the brioche in it, and lay it into
a pan; place it in summer in a cool place, in winter in a warm
one. It is usually made over-night, and baked in the early
part of the following day. It should then be kneaded up
afresh the first thing in the morning. To mould it in the
usual form, make it into balls of uniform size, hollow these a
little at the top by pressing the thumb round them, brush them
over with yolk of egg, and put a second much smaller ball into
the hollow part of each ; glaze them entirely with yolk of egg,
and send them to a quick oven for half an hour or more. ‘The
paste may also be made into the form of a large cake, then
placed on a tin, or copper oven-leaf, and supported with a
pasteboard in the baking; for the form of which see introduc-
tory page of Chapter XXIII. ’

Flour, 2 lbs.; yeast, } 0z.3 salt and sugar, each 3 oz.; butter,
1 Ib.; eggs, 6 to 8.

MODERN POTATO PASTY.
(An excellent family dish.)

A tin mould of the construction shown in the plate, with a
perforated moveable top, and a small valve to allow the escape
of the steam, must be had for this pasty, which is an excellent
family dish, and which may be varied in numberless ways.
Arrange at the bottom of the mould from two to three pounds
of mutton cutlets, freed, according to the taste, from all, or from
the greater portion of the fat, then washed, lightly dredged on
both sides with flour, and seasoned with salt and pepper, or
cayenne. Pour to them sufficient broth or water to make the
gravy, and add to it at pleasure, a tablespoonful of mushroom
catsup or of Harvey’s sauce. Have ready boiled, and very
smoothly mashed, with about an ounce of butter, and a spoon-

CHAP. XVI. | PASTRY. 341

ful or two of milk or cream to each pound, as many good pota-
toes as will form a crust to the pasty of quite three inches

Sere se ee =

thick; put the cover on the mould and arrange these equally
upon it, leaving them a little rough on the surface. Bake the
pasty in a moderate oven from three quarters of an hour to an
hour and a quarter, according to its size and its contents. Pin
a folded napkin neatly round the mould, before it is served, and
have ready a hot dish to receive the cover, which must not be
lifted off until after the pasty is on the table.

Chicken, or veal and oysters; delicate pork chops with a
seasoning of sage and a little parboiled onion, or an eschalot or
two finely minced; partridges or rabbits neatly carved, mixed
with small mushrooms, and moistened with a little good stock,
will all give excellent varieties of this dish, which may be made
likewise with highly seasoned slices of salmon freed from the
skin, sprinkled with fine herbs or intermixed with shrimps ;
clarified butter, rich veal stock, or good white wine, may be
poured to them to form the gravy. To thicken this, a little
flour should be dredged upon the fish before it is laid into the
mould. Other kinds, such as cod, mullet, mackerel in fillets,
salt fish (previously kept at the point of boiling until three parts
done, then pulled into flakes, and put into the mould with hard
eggs sliced, a little cream, flour, butter, cayenne, and anchovy-
essence, and baked with mashed parsneps on the top), will all
answer well for this pasty. Veal, when used for it, should be
well beaten first : sweetbreads, sliced, may be laid in with it.

For a pasty of moderate size, two pounds, or two and a half of
meat, and from three to four of potatoes will be sufficient : a
quarter-pint of milk or cream, two small teaspoonsful of salt,
and from one to two ounces of butter must be mixed up with

_ these last. *
* A larger proportion of cream and butter well dried into the potatoes over a

gentle fire, after they are mashed, will render the crust of the pasty richer and
finer.

342 MODERN COOKERY. (cmap. xvi.

CASSEROLE OF RICE.

Proceed exactly as for Gabrielle’s pudding (see Chapter
XVIII.), but substitute good veal broth or stock for the milk,
and add a couple of ounces more of butter. Fill the casserole
when it is emptied, with a rich mince or fricassee, or with stewed.
oysters in a béchamel sauce. French cooks make a very
troublesome and elaborate affair of this dish, putting to the rice
to make it “mellow,” a great deal of pot-top fat, slices of fat
ham, &c., which must afterwards be well drained off, or picked
out from it; but the dish, made as we have directed, will be
found excellent eating, and of very elegant appearance, if it be
moulded in a tasteful shape. It must have a quick oven to
colour, without too much drying it. For a large casserole, a
pound of rice and a quart of gravy will be required: a bit of
bread is sometimes used in filling the mould, cut to the shape,
and occupying nearly half the inside, but always so as to leave
a thick and compact crust in every part. Part of the rice
which is scooped from the inside is sometimes mixed with the
mince, or other preparation, with which the casserole is filled.

A GOOD COMMON ENGLISH GAME PIE.

Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of
a well-kept neck of venison, trim it to the length of the dish in
which the pie is to be served, and rub it with a mixture of salt,
cayenne, pounded mace, and nutmeg. Cut down into joints a
fine young hare which has hung from eight to fourteen days,
bone the back and thighs, and fill them with forcemeat No. 1,
(page 143), but put into it a double portion of butter, and a
small quantity of minced eschalots, should their flavour be liked,
and the raw liver of the hare, chopped small. Line the dish
with a rich short crust (see page 337), lay the venison in the
centre, and the hare closely round and on it; fill the vacant
spaces with more forcemeat, add a few spoonsful of well-jellied
gravy, fasten on the cover securely, ornament it or not, at
pleasure, and bake the pie two hours in a well heated oveni
The remnants and bones of the hare and venison may be
stewed down into a small quantity of excellent soup, or with a
less proportion of water into an admirable gravy, part of which,
after having been cleared from fat, may be poured into the pie.
The jelly, added to its contents at first, can be made, when no
such stock is at hand, of a couple of pounds of shin of beef,
boiled down in a quart of water, which must be reduced quite
half, and seasoned only with a good slice of lean ham, a few
peppercorns, seven or eight cloves, a blade of mace, and a little

CHAP. XVI. ] PASTRY. 343

salt. One pound and a half of flour will be sufficient for the
crust; this, when it is so preferred, may be laid round the sides
only of the dish, instead of enti:ely over it. The prime joints
of a second hare may be substituted for the venison when it can
be more conveniently procured.

Baked 2 hours.

Obs.—These same ingredients will make an excellent raised
pie, if the venison be divided and intermixed with the hare: the
whole should be highly seasoned, and all the cavities filled
with the forcemeat No. 18 (page 151),* or with the trutiled
sausage-meat of poge 252. ‘The top, before the paste is laid
over, should be covered with slices of fat bacon, or with plenty
of butter, to prevent the surface of the meat from becoming
hard. No liquid is to be put into the pie until after it is baked,
if at all. It will require from half to a full hour more of the
oven than if baked in a dish.

MODERN CHICKEN PIE.

Skin, and cut down into joints a couple of fowls, take out all
the bones, and season the flesh highly with salt, cayenne,
pounded mace, and nutmeg; line a dish with a thin paste, and
spread over it a layer of the finest sausage-meat, which has
previously been moistened with a spoonful or two of cold water;
over this place closely together some of the boned chicken
joints, then more sausage-meat, and continue thus with alternate
layers of each, until the dish is full; roll out, and fasten securely
at the edges, a cover half an inch thick, trim off the superfluous
paste, make an incision in the top, lay some paste leaves round
it, glaze the whole with yolk of egg, and bake the pie from an
hour and a half to two hours in a well heated oven. Lay a
sheet or two of writing-paper over the crust, should it brown
too quickly. Minced herbs can be mixed with the sausage-meat
at, pleasure, and a small quantity of eschalot also, where the
flavour is much liked: it should be well moistened with water,
or the whole will be unpalatably dry. The pie may be served
hot or cold, but we would rather recommend the latter.

A couple of very young tender rabbits will answer exceed-
ingly well for it instead of fowls, and a border, or half paste in the
dish will generally be preferred to an entire lining of the crust,
which is now but rarely served, unless for pastry, which is to
be taken out of the dish in which it is baked before it is sent to
table.

* The second or third mentioned forcemeat of thisnumber is meant; but the
sausage-meat can be used, if more convenient,

344 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP XVI.

A COMMON CHICKEN PIE.

Prepare the fowls as for boiling, cut them down into joints,
and season them with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, or pounded

mace; arrange them neatly in a dish bordered with paste, lay
amongst them three or four fresh eggs, boiled hard, and cut in
halves, pour in some cold water, put on a thick cover, pare the
edge, and ornament it, make a hole in the centre, lay a roll of
paste, or a few leaves round it, and bake the pie in a moderate
oven from an hour to an hour and a half. The back and
neck bones may be boiled down with:a bit or two of lean ham,
to make a little additional gravy, which can be poured into the
pie after it is baked. ,

PIGEON PIE.

Border a large dish with fine puff-paste, and cover the bottom
with a veal cutlet, or tender rump steak, free from fat and
bone, and seasoned with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, or pounded
mace; prepare with great nicety as many freshly-killed young
pigeons as the dish will contain in one layer; put into each a
slice or ball of butter, seasoned with a little cayenne and mace;
lay them into the dish with the breasts downwards, and be-
tween and over them put the yolks of half a dozen or more of
hard-boiled eggs; stick plenty of butter on them, season the
whole well with salt and spice, pour in some cold water or
veal broth for the gravy, roll out the cover three quarters of an
inch thick, secure it well round the edge, ornament it highly,
and bake it for an hour or more in a well-heated oven. It is a
great improvement to fill the birds with small mushroom-
buttons, prepared as for partridges (see Chapter XIII.): their
livers also may be put into them.

BEEF-STEAK PIE.

From a couple to three pounds of rump-steak will be suffi-
cient for a good family pie. It should be well kept though
perfectly sweet, for in no form can tainted meat be more offen-
sive than when it is enclosed in paste. ‘Trim off the coarse
skin, and part of the fat, should there be much of it (many
eaters dislike it altogether in pies, and when this is the case
every morsel should be carefully cut away). If the beef
should not appear very tender, it may be gently beaten with a
paste-roller until the fibre is broken, then divided into slices half
as large as the hand, and laid into a dish bordered with paste.
It should be seasoned with salt and pepper, or cayenne, and

CHAP. XVI. | PASTRY. 345

sufficient water poured in to make the gravy, and keep the
meat moist. Lay on the cover, and be careful always to brush
the edge in every part with egg or cold water, then join it
‘securely to the paste which is round the rim, trim both off
close to the dish, pass the point of the knife through the middle
of the cover, lay some slight roll or ornament of paste round
it, and decorate the border of the pie in any of the usual
modes, which are too common to require description. Send the
pie to a well-heated, but not fierce oven for about an hour and
twenty minutes. To make a richer beef-steak pie put bearded
oysters in alternate layers with the meat, add their strained
liquor to a little good gravy, in which the beards may be sim-
mered for a few minutes, to give it further flavour, and make a
light puff paste for the crust. Some eaters like it seasoned
with a small portion of minced onion or eschalot when the
oysters are omitted. Mushrooms improve all meat-pies.
1 to 14 hour.

MUTTON PIE. ©
(Common.)

A pound and a quarter of flour will make sufficient paste for
a moderate-sized pie, and two pounds of mutton freed from the
greater portion of the fat will fill it. Butter a dish, and line it
with about half the paste rolled thin ; lay in the mutton evenly,
and sprinkle over it three quarters of an ounce of salt, and
from half to a whole teaspoonful of pepper according to the
taste; pour in cold water to within an inch of the brim.
Roll the cover, which should bé quite half an inch thick, to
the size of the dish; wet the edges of the paste with cold water
or white of egg, be careful to close them securely, cut them off
close to the rim of the dish, stick the point of the knife through
the centre, and bake the pie an hour and a quarter iu a well-
heated oven. .

Flour, 14 lb.; dripping, 4 1b. (or suet, } lb. and butter, 2 ozs.).
Mutton, 2 lbs.; salt, 2 0z.; pepper, half to whole teaspoonful ;
water, } pint: 14 hour.

A GOOD MUTTON PIE.

Lay a h:lf-paste of short or of puff crust round a buttered
dish ; take the whole or part of a loin of mutton, strip off the
fat entirely, and raise the flesh clear from the bones without
dividing it, then slice it into cutlets of equal thickness, seison
them well with salt and pepper, or cayenn’, and strew between
the layers some finely-minced herbs mixed with two or three

346 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XVI.

eschalots, when the flavour of thes last is liked; or cmit them,
and roll quite thin some good forcemeat (which can be flavoured
with a little minced eschalot at pleasure), and lay it between
the cutlets: two or three mutton kidneys intermingled with the
meat will greatly enrich the gravy; pour in a little cold water,
roll the cover half an inch thick, or more should the crust be
short, as it will not rise like puff paste, close the pie very
securely, trim the edges even with the dish, ornament the pie
‘according to the taste, make a hole in the centre and bake it
from an hour anda half to a couple of hours. The propor-
tions of paste and meat may be ascertained by consulting the
last receipt. Gravy mae with part of the bones, quite cleared
from fat, and left to become cold, may be used to fill the pie
instead of water.

RAISED PIES.

These may be made of
any size, and with any kind
of-meat, poultry, or game,
but the whole must be en-
» tirely free from bone. When
#2 the crust is not to be eaten,

~ it is made simply with a few

ounces of lard or butter
= dissolved in boiling water,
Raised Pie. with which the flour is to
be mixed (with a spoon at first, as the heat would be too great
for the hands, but afterwards ‘with the fingers) to a smooth and
firm paste. The French, who excel greatly in this form of pie,*
use for it a good crust which they call a pate brisée (see page
337), and this is eaten usually with the meat which it contains.
In either case the paste must be sufficiently stiff to retain its
- form perfectly after it is raised, as it will have no support to
prevent its falling. ‘The celebrated Monsieur Ude gives the
following directions for moulding it-to a proper shape without
difficulty ; and as inexperienced cooks generally find a little at
first in giving a good appearance to these pies, we copy his
instructions for them: ‘Take a lump of paste proportionate
to the size of the pie you are to make, mould it in the shape of

* We remember having partaken of one which was brought from Bordeaux,
and which contained a small boned ham of delicious flavour, surmounted by
boned partridges, above which were placed fine larks likewise boned; all the
interstices were filled with super-excellent forcemeat; and the whole, being a
solid mass of nourishing viands, would have formed an admirable traveller’s
larder in itself.

CHAP. XVI. | PASTRY. B47

a sugar loaf, put it upright on the table, then with the palms of
your hands flatten the sides of it; when you have equalized it
all round and it is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the
point down to half the height of the paste,” then hollow the
inside by pressing it with the fingers, and in doing this be care-
ful to keep it in every part of equal thickness. Fill it,* roll
out the cover, egg the edges, press them securely together,
make a hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste round it, and
encircle this with a wreath of leaves, or ornament the pie in
any other way, according to the taste; glaze it with well-beaten
ohn of egg, and bake it from two to three hours in a well-
eated oven if it be small, and from four to five hours if it be
large, though the time must be regulated in some measure by
the nature of the contents, as well as by the size of the dish.
Obs.--We know not if we have succeeded in making the
reader comprehend that this sort of pie (with the exception of
the cover, for which a portion must at first be taken off) is
mace from one solid lump of paste, which, after having been
shaped into a cone, as Monsieur Ude directs, or into a high
round, or oval form, is hollowed by pressing down the centre
with the knuckles, and continuing to knead the inside equally
round with the one hand, while the other is pressed close to
the outside. It is desirable that the mode of doing this should
be once seen by the learner, if possible, as mere verbal instruc-
tions are scarcely sufficient to enable the quite-inexperienced
cook to comprehend at once the exact form and appearance
which should be given to the paste.

A VOL-AU-VENT. (ENTREE.)

Thisdish can be suc-
cessfully made only
with the finest and
lightest puff - paste
(see feuilletage, page
(335), as its height,
which ought to be
from four to five
inches, depends en-
tirely on its rising in
the oven. Roll it to something more than an inch in thickness,

* For the mode of doing this, see observations, page 343, and note, page 346.
A ham must be boiled or stewed tender, and freed from the skin and blackened
Pecan it is laid in; poultry and game, boned; and all meat highly

» ~

348 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI.

and cut it to the shape and size of the inside of the dish in which
it is to be served, or stamp it out with a fluted tin of proper
dimensions; then mark the cover evenly about an inch from
the edge all round, and ornament it and the border also, with a
knife, as fancy may direct; brush yolk of egg quickly over
them, and put the vol-au-vent immediately into a brisk oven,
that it may rise well, and be finely coloured, but do not allow
it to be scorched. In from twenty to thirty minutes, should it
appear baked through, as well as sufficiently browned, draw it
out, and with the point of a knife detach the cover carefully
where it has been marked, and scoop out all the soft unbaked
crumb from the inside of the vol-au-vent; then turn it gently
on to a sheet of clean paper, to drain the butter from it. At
the instant of serving, fill it with a rich fricassee of lobster, or of
sweetbreads, or with turbot a la créme, or with the white part
of cold roast veal cut in thin collops not larger than a shilling,
and heated in good white sauce with oysters (see minced veal
and oysters, page 219), or with.any other of the preparations
which we shall indicate in their proper places, and send it im-
mediately to table. The vol-au-vent, as the reader will perceive,
is but the case, or crust, in which various kinds of delicate
ragouts are served in an elegant form. As these are most fre-
quently composed of fish, or of meats which have been already
dressed, it is an economical as well as an excellent mode of
employing such remains. The sauces in which they are heated
must be quite thick, for they would otherwise soften, or even
run through the crust. This, we ought to observe, should be
examined before it is filled, and should any part appear too thin,
a portion of the crumb which has been taken out should be
fastened to it with some keaten egg, and the whole of the
inside brushed lightly with more egg, in order to make the
loose parts of the vol-au-vent stick well together. ‘This method
is recommended by an admirable and highly experienced cook,
but it need only be resorted to when the crust is not solid
enough to hold the contents securely.

For moderate-sized vol-au-vent, flour, } Ib.; butter, } Ib.;
salt, small saltspoonful; yolk, 1 egg; little water. Larger
vol-au-vent, 3 lb. flour; other ingredients in proportion: baked
20 to 30 minutes.

Obs.—When the vol-au-vent is cut out with the fluted cutter,
a second, some sizes smaller, after being just dipped into hot
water, should be pressed nearly half through the paste, to mark
the cover. The border ought to be from three quarters of an -
inch to an inch and a half wide.

CHAP. XVI | FINE PASTRY. 349

A VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. (ENTREMETS.)

After the crust has been made and baked as above, fill it at
the moment of serving with peaches, apricots, mogul, or any
other richly flavoured plums, which have been stewed tender in
syrup; lift them from this, and keep them hot while it is boiled
rapidly almost to jelly; then arrange the fruit in the vol-au-
vent, and pour the syrup over it. For the manner of preparing
Ht, see compotes of fruit, Chapter XX; but increase the pro-
portion of sugar nearly half, that the juice may be reduced
quickly to the proper consistency for the vol-au-vent. Skin
and divide the apricots, and quarter the peaches, unless they
should be very small.

VOL-AU-VENT A LA CREME. (ENTREMETS.)

After having raised the cover and emptied the vol-au-vent,
lay it on a sheet of paper, and let it become cold. Fill it just
before it is sent to table with fruit, either boiled down to a rich
marmalade, or stewed as for the preceding vol-au-vent, and
heap well flavoured, but not too highly sweetened, whipped
cream over it. The edge of the crust may be glazed by sifting
sugar over it, when it is drawn from the oven, and holding a
salamander or red hot shovel above it; or it may be left un-
glazed, and ornamented with bright coloured fruit jelly.

OYSTER PATTIES.* (ENTREE.)

Line some small patty-pans with fine puff-paste, rolled thin
and to preserve their form when baked, put a bit of bread into
each; lay on the covers, pinch and trim the edges, and send the
patties to a brisk oven. Plump and beard from two to three
dozens of small oysters; mix very smoothly a teaspoonful of
flour with an ounce of butter, put them into a clean saucepan,
shake them round over a gentle fire, and let them simmer for
two or three minutes; throw in a little salt, pounded mace, and
cayenne, then add, by slow degrees, two or three spoonsful of
rich cream, give these a boil, and pour in the strained liquor of
the oysters; next, lay in the fish, and keep at the point of boil-
ing for a couple of minutes. Raise the covers from the patties,
take out the bread, fill them with the oysters and their sauce,
and replace the covers. We have found it an improvement to

* These patties should be made small, with a thin crust, and be well-filled with
the oysters and their sauce. The substitution of fried crumbs for the covers will
vary them very agreeably. For lobster patties, prepare the fish as for a vol-aue
vent, but cut it smaller.

350 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI,

stew the beards of the fish with a strip or two of lemon-peel, in
a little good veal stock for a quarter of an hour, then to strain
and add it to the sauce. The oysters, unless very small, should
be once or twice divided.

GOOD CHICKEN PATTIES. (uNTREE.)

Raise the white flesh entirely from a young undressed fowl,
divide it once or twice, and lay it into a small clean saucepan,
in which about an ounce of butter has been dissolved, and just
begins to simmer; strew in a slight seasoning of salt, mace, and
cayenne, and stew the chicken very softly indeed for about ten
minutes, taking every precaution against its browning: turn it
into a dish with the butter, and its own gravy, and let it become
cold. Mince it with a sharp knife; heat it, without allowing it
to boil, in a little good white sauce (which may be made of some
of the bones of the fowl), and fill ready-baked patty-crusts, or
small vol-au-vents with it, just before they are sent to table; or
stew the flesh only just sufficiently to render it firm, mix it after
it is minced and seasoned with a spoonful or two of strong
gravy, fill the patties, and bake them from fifteen to eighteen
‘minutes. It is a great improvement to stew and mince a few
mushrooms with the chicken. :

The breasts of cold turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants,
or the white part of cold veal, minced, heated in a béchamel
sauce, will serve at once for patties: they may also be made of
cold game, heated in an #’spagnole, or in a good brown gravy.

PATTIES A LA PONTIFE. (ENTREE.)
(A fast day, or Margre dish.)

Mince, but not very small, the yolks of six fresh hard boiled
eggs; mince also and mix with them a couple of fine trufiles,*
a large saltspoonful of salt, half the quantity of mace and nut-
meg, and a fourth as much of cayenne. Moisten these ingredients
with a spoonful of thick cream, or béchamel maigre (see page
98), or with a dessertspoonful of clarified butter; line the patty-
moulds, fill them with the mixture, cover, and bake them from
twelve to fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. They are excel-
lent made with the cream-crust of page 337.

Yolks hard-boiled eggs, 6; truffles, 2 large; seasoning of
salt, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne; cream, or béchamel maigre, 1
tablespoonful, or clarified butter, 1 dessertspoonful: baked
moderate oven, 12 to 15 minutes,

* The bottled ones will answer svell for these.

CHAP. XVI. | FINE PASTRY. 351

_ Obs.—A spoonful or two of jellied stock or gravy, or of good
white sauce, converts these into admirable patties: the same
ingredients make also very superior rolls or cannelons. For
patties 4 la Cardinale, small mushroom-buttons stewed as for
partridges, Chapter XIII., before they are minced, must be sub-
stituted for truffles; and the butter in which they are simmered
should be added with them to the eggs.

EXCELLENT MEAT ROLLS.

Pound, as for potting (see page 297), and with the same pro-
portion of butter and of seasonings, some half-roasted veal,
chicken, or turkey. Make some forcemeat by the receipt No.
1, Chapter VI., and form it into small rolls, not larger than a
finger; wrap twice or thrice as much of the pounded meat
equally round each of these, first moistening it with a teaspoonful
of water; fold them in good puff-paste, and bake them from
fifteen, to twenty minutes, or until the crust is perfectly
done. A small quantity of the lean of a boiled ham may be
finely minced and pounded with the veal, and very small mush-
rooms, prepared as for a partridge (page 280), may be substituted
for the forcemeat.

PATTIES, TARTLETS, OR SMALL VOLS-AU-VENTS.

These are quickly and easily made with two round paste-cut-
ters, of which one should be little more than half the size of the
other: to give the pastry a better appearance, they should be
fluted. Roll out some of the lightest puff-paste to a half-inch .
of thickness, and with the larger of the tins cut the number of
patties required ; then dip the edge of the small shape into hot
water, and press it about half through them. Bake them in a
moderately quick oven from ten to twelve minutes, and when
they are done, with the point of a sharp knife, take out the small
rounds of crust from the tops, and scoop all the crumb from the
insides of the patties, which may then be filled with shrimps,
oysters, lobster, chicken, pheasant, or any other of the ordinary
varieties of patty meat, prepared with white sauce. Fried crumbs
may be laid over them instead of the covers, or these last can
be replaced.

For sweet dishes, glaze the pastry, and fill it with rich whip-
ped cream, preserve, or boiled custard ; if with the last of these
put it back into a very gentle oven until the custards are set.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR TARTLETS.
For a dozen tartlets, cut twenty-four rounds of paste of the

352. - MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVI.

usual size, and form twelve of them into rings by pressing the
small cutter quite through them ; moisten these with cold water,
or white of egg, and lay them on the remainder of the rounds
of paste, so as to form the rims of the tartlets. Bake them from
ten to twelve minutes, fill them with preserve while they are
still warm, and place over it a small ornament of paste cut from
the remnants, and baked gently of a light colour. Serve the
tartlets cold, or if wanted hot for table put them back into the
oven for one minute after they are filled.

A SEFTON, OR VEAL CUSTARD. :

Pour boiling, a pint of rich, clear, pale veal gravy on six fresh
egos, which have been well beaten and strained: sprinkle in
directly the grated rind of a fine lemon, a little cayenne, some
salt if needed, and a quarter-teaspoonful of mace. Put a paste
border round a dish, pour in, first two ounces of clarified butter,
and then the other ingredients ; bake the Sefton in a very slow
oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until it is quite firm
in the middle, and send it to table with a little good gravy. -
Very highly flavoured game stock, in which a few mushrooms
have been stewed, may be used for this dish with. great advan-
tage in lieu of veal gravy; and a sauce made of the smallest
mushroom buttons, may be served with it in either case. ‘The
mixture can be baked in a whole paste, if preferred so, or in well
buttered cups; then turned out and covered with the sauce be-
fore it is sent to table.

Rich veal or game stock, 1 pint; fresh eggs, 6; rind, 1 lemon;
little salt and cayenne; pounded mace, } teaspoonful ; butter, 2
ozs.. baked, 25 to 30 minutes, slow oven.

APPLE CAKE, OR GERMAN TART.

Work together with the fingers, ten ounces of buiter and a
pound of flour, until they resemble fine crumbs of bread ; throw
in a small pinch of salt, and make them into a firm smooth
paste with the yolks of two eggs and a spoonful or two of water.
Butter thickly, a plain tin cake, or pie mould (those which open
at the sides, see plate, page 334, are best adapted for the purpose);
roll out the paste thin, place the mould upon it, trim a bit to its
exact size, cover the bottom of the mould with this, then cut a
band the height of the sides, and press it smoothly round them,
joining the edge, which must be moistened with egg or water, to
the bottom crust; and fasten upon them, to prevent their sepa-
ration, a narrow and thin band of paste, also moistened. Next,
fill the mould nearly from the brim with the following marma-

CHAP. XVI. ] FINE PASTRY. (3853.

lade, which must be quite cold when it is putin. Boil together,
over a genile fire at first, but more quickly afterwards, three
pounds of good apples with fourteen ounces of pounded sugar,
or of the finest Lisbon, the strained juice of a large lemon, three
ounces of the best butter, and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon,
or the lightly grated. rind of a couple of lemons: when the whole
is perfectly smooth and dry, turn it into a pan to cool, and let it
be quite cold before it is put into the paste. In early autumn,
a larger proportion of sugar may be required, but this can be
regulated by the taste. When the mould is filled, roll out the
cover, lay it carefully over the marmalade that it may not touch
it ; and when the cake is securely closed, trim off the superfluous
paste, add a little pounded sugar to the parings, spread them out
very thin, and cut them into leaves to ornament the top of the
cake, round which they may be placed as a sort of wreath.*
Bake it for an hour in a moderately brisk oven; take it from
the mould, and should the sides not be sufficiently coloured put
it back for a few minutes into the oven upon a baking tin. Lay
a paper over the top, when it is of a fine light brown, to prevent
its being too deeply coloured. ‘This cake should be served hot.
Paste: flour, 1 lb.; butter, 10 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 2; little
water. Marmalade: apples, 3 lbs.; sugar, 14 ozs. (more if
needed) ; juice of lemon, 1; rinds of lemons, 2: butter, 3 ozs. :
baked, 1 hour.

TOURTE MERINGUEE, OR TART WITH ROYAL ICING.T

Lay a band of fine paste round the rim of a tart-dish, fill it
with any kind of fruit mixed with a moderate proportion of
sugar, roll out the cover very evenly, moisten the edges of the
paste, press them together carefully, and trim them off close to
the dish ; spread equally over the top, to within rather more
than an inch of the edge all round, the whites of three fresh
eggs beaten to a quite solid froth, and mixed quick!y at the mo-
ment of using them, with three tablespoonsful of dry sifted
sugar. Put the tart into a moderately brisk oven, and when the
crust has risen well, and the icing is set, either lay a sheet of
writing-paper lightly over it, or draw it to a part of the oven

® Or, instead of these, fasten on it with a little white of egg, after it is taken
from the oven, some ready-baked leaves of almond-paste (see page 355), either
plain or coloured.

+ The limits to which we are obliged to confine this volume, compe! us to omit
many receipts which we would gladly insert; we have, therefire, rejected those
which may be found in almost every English cookery book, for such as are, we
apprehend, less known to the reader: this will account for the small number of
receipts for pies and fruit tarts to be found in the present chapter.

354 MODERN COOKERY. [emap. xvi.

where it will not take too much colour. This is now dfashion:.
able mode of icing tarts, and greatly improves their appearance.
Bake half an hour.

A GOOD APPLE TART,

A pound and a quarter of apples, weighed after they are
pared and cored, will be sufficient for a small tart, and four
ounces more for one of moderate size. Lay a border of English
puff-paste, or of cream-crust round the dish, just dip the apples
into water, arrange them very compactly in it, higher in the
centre than at the sides, and strew amongst them from three to
four ounces of pounded sugar, or more should they be very
acid: the grated rind, and thestrained juice of half a lemon will
much improve their flavour. Lay on the cover rolled thin, and
ice it or not at pleasure. Send the tart to a moderately brisk
oven for about half an hour. This may be converted into the
old-fashioned creamed apple tart, by cutting out the cover while
it is still quite hot, leaving only about an inch-wide border of
paste round the edge, and pouring over the apples when they
have become cold, from half to three quarters of a pint of rich
boiled custard. The cover divided into triangular sippets, was
formerly stuck round the inside of the tart, but ornamen-
tal leaves of pale puff-paste have a better effect. Well-
drained whipped cream may be substituted for the custard, and
piled high, and lightly over the fruit.

BARBERRY TART.

Barberries, with half their weight of fine brown sugar, when
they are thoroughly ripe, and with two ounces more when they
are not quite so, make an admirable tart. For one of moderate
size, put into a dish bordered with paste, three quarters of
a pound of barberries stripped from their stalks, and six ounces
of sugar in alternate layers ; pour over them three tablespoons-
ful of water, put on the cover, and bake the tart for half an
hour. Another way of making it is, to line a shallow tin pan
with very thin crust, to mix the fruit and sugar well together
with a spoon, before they are laid in, and to put bars of paste
across instead of a cover; or it may be baked without either.*

* The French make their fruit-tarts generally thus, in Jarge shallow pans.
Plums, split and stoned (or if of small kinds, left entire), cherries and currants
freed trom the ‘stalks, and various other fruits, all rolled in plenty of sugar, are
baked in the uncovered crust; or this is baked by itself, and then filled afterwards
With iruit previously. stewed tender.

” CHAP. XVI. ] FINE PASTRYe 355

GENOISES A LA REINE, OR HER MAJESTY’S PASTRY.

Make some nouilles (see page 5) with the yolks of four fresh
éges, and when they are all cut, as directed there, drop them
lightly into a pint and a half of boiling cream (new milk will
answer quite as well, or a portion of each may be used), in
which six ounces of fresh butter have been dissolved. When
these have boiled quickly for a minute or two, during which
time they must be stirred to prevent their gathering into lumps,
add a small pinch of salt, and six ounces of sugar, on which the
rinds of two lemons have been rasped ; place the saucepan over
a clear and very gentle fire, and when the mixture has sim-
mered from thirty to forty minutes take it off, stir briskly in
the yolks of six eggs, and pour it out upon a delicately clean
baking-tin which has been slightly rubbed in every part with
butter ; level the nouilles with a knife to something less than
a quarter-inch of thickness, and let them be very evenly spread ;
put them into a moderate oven, and bake them of a fine equal
brown: should any air-bladders appear, pierce them with the
point of a knife. On taking the paste from the oven, divide it
into two equal parts; turn one of these, the under-side upper-
most, on to a clean tin or a large dish, and spread quickly over
it a jar of fine apricot-jam, place the other half upon it, the
brown side outwards, and leave the paste to become cold; then
stamp it out with a round or diamond-shaped cutter, and ar-
range the genoises tastily in a dish. This pastry will be found
delicious the day it is baked, but its excellence is destroyed by
keeping. Peach, green-gage, or magnum bonum jam, will serve
for it quite as well as apricot. We strongly recommend to our
readers this preparation, baked in patty-pans, and served hot;
or the whole quantity made into a pudding. From the smaller
ones a little may be taken out with a teaspoon, and replaced
with some preserve just before they are sent to table; or they
may thus be eaten cold.

Nouilles of 4 eggs; cream or milk, 1} pint; butter, 6 ozs. ;
sugar, 6 ozs.; rasped rinds of lemons, 2; grain of salt: 30 to
40 minutes. Yolks of eggs, 6: baked from 15 to 25 minutes.

ALMOND PASTE.

For a single dish of pastry, blanch seven ounces of fine Jor-
- dan almonds and one of bitter;* throw them into cold water as
they are done, and let them remain in it for an hour or two;

* When these are objected to, use half a pound of the sweet almonds.

856 MODERN COOKERY. [cnar. xvp

then wipe, and pound them to the finest paste, moistening them
occasionally with a few drops of cold water, to »revent their
oiling; next, add to, and mix thoroughly with them, seven
ounces of highly-refined, dried, and sifted sugar; put them
into a small preserving-pan, or enamelled stewpan, and stir
them over a clear and very gentle fire until they are so dry as
not to adhere to the finger when touched; turn the paste im-
mediately into an earthen pan or jar, and when cold it will, be
ready for use.

Jordan almonds, 7 ozs.; bitter almonds, 1 oz.; cold water, 1
tablespoonful ; sugar, 7 ozs.

Obs.—The pan in which the paste is dried, should by no
means be placed upon the fire, but high above it on a bar or
trevet: should it be allowed by accident to harden too much,
it must be sprinkled plentifully with water, broken up quite
small, and worked, as it warms, with a strong wooden spoon to
a smooth paste again. We have found this method perfectly
successful; but, if time will permit, it should be moistened some
hours before it is again set over the fire.

TARTLETS OF ALMOND PASTE.

Butter slightly the smallest-sized patty-pans, and line them
with the almond-paste rolled as thin as possible; cut it with a
sharp knife close to their edges, and bake or rather dry the
tartlets slowly at the mouth of a very cool oven. If at all
coloured, they should be only of the palest brown; but they
will become perfectly crisp without losing their whiteness if lett
for some hours in a very gently-heated stove or oven. They
should be taken from the pans when two thirds done, and laid,
reversed, upon a sheet of paper placed on a dish or beard,
before they are put back mto the oven, At the instant of
serving, fill them with bright-coloured whipped cream, or with
peach or apricot jam; if the preserve be used, lay over it a
small star or other ornament cut from the same paste, and dried
with the tartlets. Sifted sugar, instead of flour, must be
dredged upon the board and roller in using almond paste.
Leaves and flowers formed of it, and dried gradually until per-
fectly crisp, will keep for a long time in a tin box or canister,
and they form elegant decorations for pastry. When a fiuted
cutter the size of the pattypans is at hand, it will be an im-
provenyet to cut out the paste with it, and then to press it
Nightly into them, as it is rather apt to break when pared off
with a knife. To colour it, prepared cochineal, or spinache ~
green, must be added to it in the mortar. ,

CHAP. XVI. ] - FINE PASTRY. 357

MINCEMEAT.
(Author's Recerpt.)

To one pound of an unsalted ox-tongue, boiled tender and
cut free from the rind, add two pounds of fine stoned raisins,
' two of beef kidney-suet, two pounds and a half of currants well
cleaned and dried, two of good apples, two and a half of fine
Lisbon sugar, from half to a whole pound of candied pcel
according to the taste, the grated rinds of two large lemons, and
two more boiled quite tender, and chopped up entirely, with the
exception of the pips, two small nutmegs, half an ounce of salt,
a large teaspoonful of pounded mace, rather more of ginger in
powder, half a pint of brandy, and as much good sherry or
Madeira. Mince these ingredients separately, and mix the
others all well before the brandy and the wine are added; press
the whole into a jar or jars, and keep it closely covered. It
should be stored for a few days before it is used, and will remain
good for many weeks. Some persons like a slight flavouring of
cloves in addition to the other spices; others add the juice of
two or three lemons, and a larger quantity of brandy. The
inside of a tender and well-roasted sirloin of beef will answer
quite as well as the tongue.

Of a fresh-boiled ox-tongue, or inside of roasted sirloin, 1 1b. ;
stoned raisins and minced apples, each 2 Ibs.; currants and fine
Lisbon sugar, each 23 lbs.; candied orange, lemon or citron
rind, 8 to 16 ozs.; boiled lemons, 2 large; rinds of two others,
grated; salt, 40z.; nutmegs, 2 small; pounded mace, 1 large
teaspoonful, and rather more of ginger ; good sherry or Madeira,
} pint ; brandy, } pint.

Obs.—The lemons will be sufficiently boiled in from one hour
to one and a quarter.

SUPERLATIVE MINCEMEAT.

Take four large lemons, with their weight of golden pippins
pared and cored, of jar-raisins, currants, candied ,citron and
orange-rind, and the finest suet, and a fourth part more of
pounded sugar. Boil the lemons tender, chop them small, but
be careful first to extract all the pips; add them to the other
ingredients, after all have been prepared with great nicety, and
mix the whole well with from three to four glasses of good
brandy. Apportion salt and spice by the preceding receipt.
~ We think that the weight of one lemon, in meat, improves this
mixture ; or, in lieu of it, a small quantity of crushed macaroons
added just before it is baked.

358 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XvI.

MINCE PIES. (ENTREMETS.)

Butter some tin pattypans well, and line them evenly with
fine puff paste rolled thin; fill them with mincemeat, moisten the
edges of the covers, which should be nearly a quarter of an inch
thick, close the pies carefully, trim off the superfluous paste,
make a small aperture in the centre of the crust with a fork or
the point of a knife, ice the pies with cold water and sifted
sugar (see page 335), or not, at pleasure, and bake them half an
hour in a well-heated but not fierce oven: lay a paper over them
when they are partially done, should they appear likely to take
too much colour. Zk

2 hour.

MINCE PIES ROYAL, (ENTREMETS.)

Add to half a pound of good mincemeat an ounce and a half
of pounded sugar, the grated rind and the strained juice of a
large lemon, one ounce of clarified butter, and the yolks of four
eggs; beat these well together, and half fill, or rather more,
with the mixture, some pattypans lined with fine paste; put
them into a moderate oven, and when the insides are just set,
ice them thickly with the whites of the eggs beaten to snow,
and mixed quickly at the moment with four heaped table-
spoonsful of pounded sugar; set them immediately into the
oven again, and bake them of a fine light brown.

Mincemeat, }-1b. ; sugar, 1} oz. ; rind and juice, 1 large lemon;
butter, 1 0z.; yolks, 4 eggs. Icing: whites, 4 eggs; sugar, 4
tablespoonsful. , |

THE MONITOR’S TART, OR TOURTE A LA JUDD.

Put into a German enamelled stewpan,.or into a delicately
clean saucepan, three quarters of a pound of well-flavoured
apples, weighed after they are pared and cored; add to them
from three to four ounces of pounded sugar, an ounce and a
half of fresh butter, cut small, and half a teaspoonful of pounded
cinnamon, or the lightly grated rind of a small lemon. Let
them stand over, or by the side of a gentle fire until they
begin to soften, and toss them now and then to mingle the whole
well, but do not stir them with a spoon ; they should all remain
unbroken and rather firm. Turn them into a dish, and let
them become cold. Divide three quarters of a pound of good
light crust into two equal portions; roll out one quite thin and
round, flour an oven-leaf and lay it on, as the tart cannot so
well be moved after it is made; place the apples upon it in the

CHAP, XVI. ] FINE PASTRY. | 359

form of a dome, but leave a clear space of an inch or more
round the edge; moisten this with white of egg, and press the
remaining half of the paste (which should be rolled out to the
same size, and laid carefully over the apples) closely upon it:
they should be well secured, that the syrup from the fruit may
‘not burst through. Whisk the white of an egg to a froth,
brush it over the tart with a small bunch of feathers, sift sugar
thickly over, and then strew upon it some almonds blanched
and roughly chopped; bake the tart in a moderate oven from
thirty-five to forty-five minutes. It may be filled with peaches,
or apricots, half stewed, like the apples, or with cherries merely
rolled in fine sugar; or with the pastry cream of page 361.

Light paste, 4 to ¢ lb.; apples, 12 ozs.; butter, 14 oz.; sugar,
4ozs.; glazing of egg and sugar; almonds, 3 0z.: 35 to 45
minutes,

PUDDING PIES. (ENTREMETS.)

This form of pastry (or its name at least) is, we believe,
peculiar to the county of Kent, where it is made in abundance,
and eaten by all classes of people during Lent. Boil for fifteen
minutes three ounces of ground rice* in a pint and a half of new
milk, and when taken from the fire stir into it three ounces of
butter and four of sugar; add to these six well-beaten eggs, a
grain or two of salt, and a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon-rind
at pleasure. When the mixture is nearly cold, line some large
pattypans or some saucers with thin puff paste, fill them with it
three parts full, strew the tops thickly with currants which have
been cleaned and dried, and bake the pudding-pies from fifteen
to twenty minutes in a gentle oven.

Milk, 1} pint; ground rice, 3 ozs.: 15 minutes. Butter, 3
ozs.; sugar, + lb.; nutmeg or lemon-rind; eggs, 6; currants,
4 to 6 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes.

PUDDING-PIES.
(A commoner kind.)

One quart of new milk, five ounces of ground rice, butter,
one ounce and a half (or more), four ounces of sugar, half a
small nutmeg grated, a pinch of salt, four large eggs, and three
ounces of currants.

COCOA-NUT CHEESE-CAKES. (ENTREMETS.)
(Jamaica Receipt.) ,
Break carefully the shell of the nut, that the liquid it con-

* Or rice-fiour.

860 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. xvi.

tains may not escape.* Take out the kernel, wash it in cold
water, pare thinly off the dark skin, and grate the nut on @
delicately clean bread-grater ; put it, with its weight of pounded
sugar, and its own milk, if not sour, or if it be, a couple of
spoonsful or rather more of water, into a silver or block-tin
saucepan, or a very small copper stewpan perfectly tinned, and
keep it gently stirred over a quite clear fire until it is tender:
it will sometimes require an hour’s stewing to make it so.
‘When a little cooled, add to the nut, and beat well with it,
some eggs properly whisked and strained, and the grated rind
of halfa lemon. Line some pattypans with fine paste, put in
the mixture, and bake the cheese-cakes fiom thirteen to fifteen
minutes.

Grated cocoa-nut, 6 ozs.; sugar, 6 ozs.; the milk of the nut,
or of water, 2 large tablespoonsful: 4 to 1 hour. Eggs, 5;
lemon-rind, 4 of 1: 13 to 15 minutes.

Obs.—We have found the cheese-cakes made with these pro-
portions very excellent indeed, but should the mixture be con-
sidered too sweet, another egg or two can be added, and a little
brandy also.

LEMON CHEESE-CAKES. (ENTREMETS.)
(Christ-Church-College Receipt.)

Rasp the rind of a large lemon with four ounces of fine sugar,
then crush, and mix it with the yolks of three eggs, and half
the quantity of whites, well whisked; beat these together tho-
roughly; add to them four tablespoonsful of cream, a quarter
of a pound of oiled butter, the stramed juice of the lemon,—
which must be stirred quickly in by degrees,—and a little
orange-flower brandy. Line some pattypans with thin -puff-
' paste, half fill them with the mixture, and bake them thirty
minutes in a moderate oven.

Sugar, 4 ozs.; rind and juice, 1 large lemon; butter, 4 ozs.;
cream, 4 tablespoonsful; orange-flower brandy, 1 tablespoonful:
bake 3 hour.

COMMON LEMON TARTLETS.

Beat four eggs until they are exceedingly light, add to them
gradually four ounces of pounded sugar, and whisk these to-
gether for five minutes; strew lightly in, if it be at hand, a
dessertspoonful of potato-flour, if not, of common flour well

* This, as we have elsewhere stated, is best secured by boring the shell before it
is broken.

‘

CHAP. XVIe | - FINE PASTRY. | 361

dried and sifted ;* then throw into the mixture by slow degrees,
three ounces of good butter, which should be dissolved, but
only just luke-warm ; beat the whole well, then stir briskly in,
the strained juice and the grated rind of one lemon and a half.
Line some pattypans with fine puff-paste rolled very thin,
fill them two thirds full, and bake the tartlets about twenty
minutes, in a moderate oven.

Eggs, 4; sugar, 4 ozs.; potato-flour, or common flour, 1
‘dessertspoonful ; butter, 3 ozs.; juice and rind of 1} full-sized
lemon: baked 15 to 20 minutes. j

MADAME WERNER’S ROSENVIK CHEESE-CAKES.

Blanch and pound to the finest possible paste, four ounces of
fine fresh Jordan almonds, with a few drops of lemon-juice or
water, then mix with them, very gradually indeed, six fresh,
‘and thoroughly well-whisked eggs; throw in by degrees twelve
ounces of pounded sugar, and beat the mixture without inter-
mission all the time; add then the finely grated rinds of four
small, or of three large lemons, and afterwards, by very slow
degrees, the strained juice of all. When these ingredients are
perfectly blended, pour to them in small portions, four ounces
of just liquefied butter (six of clarified if exceedingly rich cheese-
cakes are wished for), and again whisk the mixture lightly for
several minutes; thicken it over the fire like boiled custard,
and either put it into small pans or jars for storing, f or
fill with it, one third full, some pattypans lined with the
finest paste; place lightly on it a layer of apricot, orange, or
Jemon-marmalade, and on this pour as much more of the mix-
ture. Bake the cheese-cakes from fifteen to twenty minutes
in a moderate oven. They are very good without the layer of
preserve.

Jordan almonds, 4 ozs.; eggs, 6; sugar, 12 ozs.; rinds and
strained juice of 4 small, or of 3 quite large lemons; butter, 4
ozs. (6 for rich cheese-cakes) ; layers of preserve. Baked 15 to
20 minutes, moderate oven. ie

CREME PATISSIERE, OR PASTRY CREAM.

_ To one ounce of fine flour add, very gradually, the beaten
yolks of three fresh eggs; stir to them briskly, and in small

* A few ratifias, or three or four macaroons rolled to powder, or a stale sponge
or Napies biscuit or two, reduced to the finest crumbs, may be substituted for
either of these: more lemon, too, can be added to the taste.

+ This preparation will make excellent funchonettes, or pastry-sandwiches. It
will not curdle if gently boiled for two or three minutes (and stirred without
ceasing), and it may be long kept afterwards.

. 862 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVI.

portions at first, three quarters of a pint of boiling cream, or of
cream and new milk mixed; then turn the whole into a clean
stewpan, and stir it over a very gentle fire until it is quite thick,
take it off, and stir it well up and round; replace it over the
fire, and let it just simmer from six to eight minutes; pour it
into a basin, and add to it immediately a couple of ounces of
pounded sugar, one and a half of fresh butter, cut small, or
clarified, and a spoonful of the store mixture of page 139, or a
little sugar which has been rubbed on the rind of a lemon.
The cream is rich enough for common use without further
addition; but an ounce and a half of ratifias, crushed almost to
powder-with a paste roller improves it much, and they should be
mixed with it for the receipt which follows. .

Flour, 1 0z.; yolks of eggs, 3; boiling cream, or milk and
cream mixed, 3 pint: just simmered, 6 to’ 8 minutes. Butter,
1} 0z.; sugar, 2 ozs.; little store-flavouring, or rasped lemon-
rind; ratifias, 14 ez.

Obs.—This is an excellent preparation, which may be used
for tartlets, cannelons, and other forms of pastry, with extremely
good effect. |

SMALL VOLS-AU-VENTS, A LA HOWITT. (ENTREMETS.)

Make some small vols-au-vents by the directions of page 351,
either in the usual way, or with the rings of paste placed upon
the rounds. Ice the edges as soon as they are taxen from the
oven, by sifting fine sugar thickly on them, and then holding a
salamander or heated shovel over them, until it melts and forms °
a sort of pale barley-sugar glaze. Have ready, and quite hot,
some créme patissiére, made as above; fill the vols-au-vents with
it, and send them to table instantly.

PASTRY SANDWICHES.

Divide equally in two, and roll off square and as thin as
possible, some rich puff crust ;* lay one half on a buttered tin,
or copper oven-leaf, and spread it lightly with fine currant,
strawberry, or raspberry jelly; lay the remaining half closely
over, pressing it a little with the rolling pin after the edges are
well cemented together ; then mark it into divisions, and bake
it from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

LEMON SANDWICHES.
Substitute for preserve, in the preceding receipt, the lemon
cheese-cake mixture of page 361, with or without, the almonds
in it. :
* Almond paste is sometimes substituted for this.

CHAP. XVI. - FINE PASTRY. » Boe

FANCHONNETTES, (ENTREMETS.)

Roll out very thin and square some fine puff paste, lay it on a
tin or copper oven-leaf, and cover it equally to within something
less than an inch of the edge with peach or apricot jam; roll. a
second bit of paste to the same size, and lay it carefully over
the other, having first moistened the edges with beaten egg, or
water; press them together securely, that the preserve may not
escape; pass a paste brush or small bunch of feathers dipped in
water over the top, sift sugar thickly on it, then with the back
of a knife, mark the paste into divisions of uniform size, bake it
in a well-heated but not fierce oven for twenty minutes, or
rather more, and cut it while it is still hot, where it is marked.
The fanchonnettes should be about three inches in length
and two in width. In order to lay the second crust over the
preserve without disturbing it, wind it lightly round the-paste-
roller, and in untwisting it, let it fall gently over the other

art.
This is not the form of pasty called by the French fan-
chonnettes.

Fine puff paste, 1 lb.; apricot or peach jam, 4 to 6 ozs.:
baked 20 to 25 minutes.

CURRANT-JELLY TARTLETS, OR CUSTARDS.

Put four tablespoonsful of the best currant-jelly into a basin,
and stir to it gradually twelve spoonsful of beaten egg; if the
preserve be rich and sweet, no sugar will be required. Line
some pans with paste rolled very thin, fill them with the cus-
tard, and bake them about ten minutes.*

RAMEKINS A L'UDE, OR SEFTON FANCIES.

Roll out, rather thin, from six to eight ounces of fine cream-
crust, or feuzlletage (see page 335); take nearly or quite half
its weight of grated Parmesan, or something less of dry white
English cheese; sprinkle it equally over the paste, fold it
together, roll it out very lightly twice, and continue thus until
the cheese and crust are well mixed. Cut the ramekins with a
small paste-cutter ; wash them with yolk of egg mixed with a
little milk, and bake them about fifteen minutes. Serve them

very hot.
' Cream-crust, or feuilletage, 6 ozs.; Parmesan, 3 ozs.3 or
- English cheese, 2} ozs.: 15 minutes.

® Strawberry or raspberry jelly will answer admirably for these,

364 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVII.

CHAPTER XVII.

BOILED PUDDINGS,

Ingoldsby Christmas pudding.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS.

At the ingredients for puddings should be fresh and of good
quality. It is a false economy to use for them such as have
been too long stored, as the slightest degree of mustiness or
taint in any one of the articles of which they are composed
will spoil all that are combined with it. Eggs should always
be broken separately into a cup before they are thrown together
in the same basin, as a single very bad one will occasion the
loss of many when. this precaution is neglected. They should
also be cleared from the specks with scrupulous attention,
either with the point of a small three pronged fork, while they
are in the cup, or by straining the whole through a fine hair-
sieve after they are beaten. The perfect sweetness of suet and
milk should be especially attended to, before they are mixed
into a pudding, as nothing can be more offensive than the first
when it is over-kept, nor worse in its effect than the curdling
of the milk, which is the certain result of its being ever so
slightly soured. sine

Currants should be ¢keaned, and raisins stoned with exceed-
ing care; almonds and spices very finely pounded, and the
rinds of oranges or lemons rasped or grated lightly off, that the
bitter part of the skin may be avoided, when they are used for
this, or for any other class of dishes; if pared, they should be
cut as thin as possible. .

Custard puddings, to have a good appearance, must be s¢m-
mered on® * sing; for if boiled in a quick and
car* e, instead of being smooth and

r
i)

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS, 365

velvety, will be full of holes, or honey-combed, as it is called,
and the whey will flow from it and mingle with the sauce. A
thickly-buttered sheet of writing-paper should be laid between
the custard mixture and the cloth, before it is tied over, or the
lid of the mould is closed upon it ;. and the mould itself, or the

basin in which it is boiled, and which should always be quite *

full, must likewise be well buttered; and after it is lifted
from the water the pudding should be left in it for quite five
minutes before it is dished, to prevent its breaking or spreading
about.

Batter is much lighter when boiled in a cloth, and al-
lowed full room to swell, than when confined in a mould:
it should be well beaten the instant before it is poured into
it, and put into the water immediately after it is securely
tied. The cloth should be moist and thickly floured, and the
pudding should be sent to table as expeditiously as possible
after it is done, as it will quickly become heavy. This applies
equally to all puddings made with paste, which are rendered
uneatable by any delay in serving them after they are ready:
they should be opened a littie at the top as soon as they are
taken from the boiler or stewpan.

Plum-puddings, which it is now customary to boil in moulds,
are both lighter and less dry, when closely tied in stout cloths
well buttered and floured, especially when they are made in
part with bread; but when this is done, care should be taken
not to allow them to burn to the bottom of the pan in which
they are cooked ; and it is a good plan to lay a plate or dish
under them, by way of precaution against this mischance ; it
wili not then so much matter whether they be kept floating
or not. It is thought better to mix these entirely (except the
liquid portion of them) the day before they are boiled, and it
is perhaps an advantage when they are of large size to do so,
but it is not really necessary for small or common ones.

A very little salt improves all sweet puddings, by taking off
the insipidity, and bringing out the full flavour of the other
ingredients, but its presence should not be in the slightest degree
perceptible. When brandy, wine, or lemon-juice is added to them
it should be stirred in briskly, and by degrees, quite at last, as i
would be likely otherwise to curdle the milk or eggs,

Many persons prefer their puddings steamed ; but when this

_is not done, they should be dropped into plenty of boiling water,
and be kept well covered with it until they are ready to serve;
and the boiling should never be allowed to cease for an instant,
for they soon become heavy if it be interrupted.

a ; *

366 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVII.

Pudding and dumpling cloths should not only be laid into
plenty of water as soon as they are taken off, and washed after-
wards, as we shall direct, but it is essential to their perfect sweet-
ness that they should be well and quickly dried Gn the open air
if possible), then folded and kept in a clean drawer. We have
known them left wet by a careless servant, until when brought
forward for use, they were as offensive almost as meat that had
been too long kept. To prevent their ever imparting an
unpleasant flavour when used, they should be washed in a ley
made as follows; but when from any circumstance this cannot
be done, and soap is used for them, they should be rinsed, and

soaked in abundance of water, which should be changed several
times.

A LIE, oR LEY, FOR WASHING PUDDING-CLOTHS.

Toa pint of wood ashes pour three quarts of boiling water,
and either wash the cloths in the mixture without straining it, or
give them two or three minutes boil in it first, then let the whole
cool together ; wash the cloths perfectly clean, and rinse them
in abundance of water, changing it several times: this both takes
the grease off, and renders them very sweet. ‘Two ounces of
soda dissolved in a gallon of water will answer almost as well,
provided the rinsing afterwards be carefully attended to.

TO CLEAN CURRANTS FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES.

Put them into a cullender, strew a handful of flour over them,
and rub them with the hands to separate the lumps, and to detach
the stalks; work them round in the cullender, and shake it well,
when the small stalks and stones will fall through it. Next
pour plenty of cold water over the currants, drain, and spread
them on a soft cloth, press it over them to absorb the moisture,
and then lay them on a very clean oven-tin, or a large dish, and
dry them very gradually (or they will become hard), either in a
cool oven, or before the fire, taking care in the latter case that
they are not placed acently near it for the ashes to fall
amongst them. When they are perfectly dry, clear them
entirely from the remaining: stalks, and from every stone that
may be amongst them. The best mode of detecting these is to
lay the fruit at the far end of a large white dish, or sheet of
paper, and to pass it lightly, and in very small portions,
with the fingers, towards oneself, examining it closely as this
is done.

TO MIX BATTER FOR PUDDINGS.
Put the fiour and salt into a bowl, and stir them together ;

OHAP, XVII. ] BOILED PUDDINGS. | 367

whisk the eggs thoroughly, strain them through a fine hair-sieve,
and add them very gradually to the flour; for if too much
liquid be poured to it at once it will be full of lumps, and it is
easy, with care, to keep the batter perfectly smooth. Beat it
well, and lightly with the back of a strong wooden spoon, and
aiter the eggs are added thin it with milk to a proper consis-
tency. ‘The whites of the eggs beaten separately to a solid froth,
and stirred gently into the mixture the instant before it is tied
up for. boiling, or before it is put into the oven to be baked, will
render it remarkably light. When fruit is added to the batter,
it must be made thicker than when it is served plain, or it will
sink to the bottom of the pudding. Batter should never stick
to the knife when it is sent to table ; it will do this both when a
sufficient number of eggs are not mixed with it, and when it is
not enough cooked. About four eggs to the half pound of flour
will make it firm enough to cut smoothly.

SUET-CRUST, FOR MEAT OR FRUIT PUDDINGS.

Clear off the skin from some fresh beef kidney-suet, and with
a sharp knife slice it thin, free it entirely from’ fibre, and mince
it very fine: six ounces thus prepared will be found quite suffi-
cient for a pound of flour. Mix them well together, add half a
teaspoonful of salt for meat puddings, and a third as much for
fruit ones, and sufficient cold water to make the whole into a
very firm paste; work it smooth, and roll it out of equal thick-
ness when it is used. The weight of suet should be taken after
it is minced. This crust isso much lighter, and more whole-
some than that which is made with butter, that we cannot refrain
from recommending it in preference to our readers. Some cooks
merely slice the suet in thin shavings, mix it with the flour, and
beat the crust with a paste roller, until the flour and suet are
perfectly incorporated.

Flour, 2 lbs.; suet, 12 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; water, 1
pint.
: BUTTER CRUST FOR PUDDINGS.

When suet is disliked for crust, butter must supply its place,
but there must be no intermixture of lard in paste which is to be
boiled. Eight ounces to the pound of flour will render it suffi-
ciently rich for most eaters, and less will generally be preferred;
rich crust of this kind being more indigestible by far than that
which is baked. The butter may be lightly broken into the
. flour before the water is added, or it may be laid on, and rolled
into the paste as for puff-crust. A small portion of salt must

ge tt a ea al 3b

368 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVII.

be added to it always, and for a meat pudding the same propor-
tion as directed in the preceding receipt. For kitchen, or for
quite common family puddings, butter and clarified dripping are
used sometimes in equal proportions. From three to four
ounces of each will be sufficient for the pound and quarter of
fiour.

Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 8 ozs.; salt, for fruit puddings, 3 salt-
spoonful; for meat puddings, 3 teaspoonful.

BEEF-STEAK, OR JOHN BULL’S PUDDING.

This, and all other meat puddings are more conveniently made
in deep pans or basins having a thick rim, below which the
cloths can be tied without the hazard of their slipping off; and
as the puddings should by no means be turned out before they
are sent to tabie, a basin or pan to match the dinner-service, at
least in colour, is desirable.* Roll out a suet crust to half an
inch in thickness, line evenly with it a quart, or any other sized
basin that may be preferred, and raise the crust from an inch and
a half to two inches above the edge. Fill it with layers of well-
kept rump-steak, neatly trimmed, and seasoned with salt and
pepper, or cayenne; pour in some cold water to make the gravy;-
roll out the cover, moisten the edge, as well as that of the
pudding; draw and press them together carefully, fold them
over, shake out a cloth which has been dipped into hot water,
wrung out, and well floured; tie it over the pudding, gather
the corners together, tie them over the top of the pudding, put
it into plenty of fast boiling water, and let it remain in from
three to five hours, according to its size. The instant it is lifted
out, stick a fork quite through the middle of the crust to pre-
vent its bursting; remove the cloth quickly, and cut a small
round or square in the top to allow the steam to escape, and serve
the pudding immediately. Though not considered very admis-
sible to an elegantly served table, this is a favourite dish with
many persons, and it is said to be in great esteem with Sussex
sportsmen, for whom it is often provided in preference to fare
which requires greater exactness in the time of cooking; as an
additional hour’s boilmg, or even more, will have little effect on

* It is now customary in many families to have both meat and fruit puddings
boiled, and served in pie or tart-dishes. They are lined entirely with very thin
crust, or merely rimmed with it, according to taste; then filled, closed, and
cooked in the usual manner. The plan is a good and convenient one, where the
light upper-crust is preferred to the heavy and sodden part which is under the

meat. In Kent and Sussex, shallow pans, in form somewhat resembling a large

deep saucer, are sold expressly for boiling ueat puddings,

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 369

a large pudding of this kind, beyond reducing the quantity of
gravy, and rendering it very thick. |

Some cooks flour the meat slightly before it is laid into the
crust, but we do not think it an improvement: where fat is
liked, a portion may be added with the lean, but all skin and
sinew should be carefully rejected. Beat the steak with a paste
roller, should it not appear to be perfectly tender, and divide
it into portions about the size of two fingers. Two or three
dozens of oysters, bearded and washed free from grit in their
own liquor (which should afterwards be strained and poured
into the pudding), may be intermingled with the meat.

A true epicurean receipt for this dish directs the crust to be
made with veal-kidney suet, and filled with alternate layers of
the inside of the sirloin, sliced and seasoned, and of fine plump
native oysters, intermixed with an occasional small slice of the
_ veal fat.

SMALL BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

Make into a very firm, smooth paste, one pound of flour, six
ounces of beef-suet, finely minced, half a teaspoonful of salt, and
half a pint of cold water. Line with this a basin which holds a
pint and a half. Season a pound of tender steak, free from bone
and skin, with half an ounce of salt and half a teaspoonful
of pepper well mixed together; lay it in the crust, pour in a
pedi: of water, roll out the cover, close the pudding care-

ully, tie a floured cloth over, and boil it three hours and a half.
We give this receipt in addition to the preceding one, as an
exact guide for the proportions of meat-puddings in general.

Flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 6 ozs.; salt, 4 teaspoonful; water, 3 pint;
rump-steak, 1 Ib.; salt, 5 0z.; pepper, 3 teaspoonful ; water, }
pint: 34 hours.

RUTH PINCHS BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

To make Ruth Pinch’s celebrated pudding (known also as
beef-steak pudding @ la Dickens), substitute six ounces of butter
for the suet in this receipt, and moisten the paste with the well-
beaten yolks of four eggs, or with three whole ones, mixed with
a little water; butter the basin very thickly before the crust is
laid in, as the pudding is to be turned out of it for table. In

all else proceed exactly as above.

SUPERLATIVE BEEF-PUDDING.

Take a fine woodcock that is ready for the spit, and put it
into the middle of a large beef-pudding, laying the meat under,
BB

370 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP, XVIr.

over, and round it; finish it as usual, and boil it four hours or
more: the fine flavour of the bird will pervade the whole con-
tents of the pudding.

MUTTON PUDDING.

Mutton freed perfectly from fat, and mixed with two or three
sliced kidneys, makes an excellent pudding. The meat may be
sprinkled with fine herbs as it is laid into the crust. This will
require rather less boiling than the preceding puddings, but it
is made in precisely the same way.

PARTRIDGE PUDDING.

Skin a couple of well-kept partridges and cut them down into
joints; line a deep basin with suet crust, observing the directions
given in the preceding receipts; lay in the birds, which should
be rather highly seasoned with pepper or cayenne, and mode-
rately with salt ; pour in water for the gravy, close the puddin
with care, and boil it from three hours to three and a half.
The true flavour of the game is admirably preserved by this
mode of cooking. When mushrooms are plentiful, put a layer
of buttons, or small flaps, cleaned as for pickling, alternately
with a layer of partridge, in filling the pudding, which will
then be most excellent eating : the crust may be left untouched,
and merely emptied of its contents, where it is objected to; or
its place may be supplied with a richer one made of butter. A
seasoning of pounded mace or nutmeg can be used at discretion.
Puddings of veal, chickens, and young rabbits, may all be made
by this receipt, or with the addition of oysters, which we have
already noticed.

COMMON BATTER PUDDING.

Beat four eggs thoroughly, mix with them half a pint of
milk, and pass them through a sieve, add them by degrees to
half a pound of flour, and when the batter is perfectly smooth,
thin it with another half pint of milk. Shake out a wet pud-
ding. cloth, flour it well, pour the batter in, leave it room to
swell, tie it securely, and put it immediately into plenty of fast-
boiling water. An hour and ten minutes will boil it. Send it
to table the instant it is dished, with wine sauce, a hot compote
of fruit, or raspberry vinegar : this last makes a delicious pudding”
sauce. Unless the liquid be added very gradually to the flour,
and the mixture be well stirred and beaten as eaca portion is

oured to it, the batter will not be smooth: to render it very
ight, a portion of the whites of the eggs, or the whole of them,

CHAP, XVII.] —S- BOILED _ PUDDINGS, 371

should be whisked to a froth and stirred into it just before it is
‘put into the cloth. »

Flour, 3 lb.; eggs, 4; salt, 2 teaspoonful; milk, 1 pint: 1 hour
and 10 minutes.

Obs.—Modern taste is in favour of puddings boiled in moulds,
but, as we have already stated, they are seldom or ever so light
as those which are tied in cloths only. Where appearance is the
first consideration, we would recommend the use of the moulds,
of course.

ANOTHER BATTER PUDDING.

_ Mix the yolks of three eggs smoothly with: three heaped
tablespoonsful of flour, thin the batter with new milk until it is
of the consistency of cream, whisk the whites of eggs apart, stir
them into the batter, and boil the pudding in a floured cloth or
buttered basin for an hour. Before it is served, cut the top
quickly into large dice, half through the pudding, pour over it
a small jarful of fine currant, raspberry, or strawberry jelly, and
send it to table without delay.

Flour, 3 tablespoonsful; eggs, 3; salt, 3 teaspoonful; milk,
from 3 to a whole pint: 1 hour.

Obs.—For a very large pudding, double the quantity of in-
gredients and the time of boiling will be required.

BLACK-CAP PUDDING.

Make a good light thin batter, and just before it is poured
into the cloth stir to it half a pound of currants, well cleaned
and dried; these will sink to the lower part of the pudding and
blacken the surface. Boil it the usual time, and dish it with the
dark side uppermost; send very sweet sauce to table with it.
Some cooks butter a mould thickly, strew in the currants, and
pour the batter on them, which produces the same appearance
as when the ingredients are tied in a cloth.

BATTER FRUIT PUDDING.

Butter thickly a basin which holds a pint and a half, and fill
it nearly to the brim with good boiling apples pared, cored, and
quartered; pour over them a batter made with four table-
spoonsful of flour, two large or three small eggs, and half'a pint
of milk. Tie a buttered and floured cloth over the basin, which
ought to be quite full, and boil the pudding for an hour and a
quarter. Turn it into a hot dish when done, and strew sugar
thickly over it: this, ifadded to the batter at first renders it
heavy. Morella cherries make a very superior pudding of this

372 MODERN COOKERY. [enap. xvin.

kind; and green gooseberries, damsons, and. various other fruits,
answer for it extremely well: the time of boiling it must be
varied according to their quality and its size.

For a pint and half mould or basin filled to the brim with
apples or other fruit; flour, 4 tablespoonsful; eggs, 2 large or 3
small; milk, } pint: 13 hour.

Obs.—Apples cored, halved, and mixed with a good batter,
make an excellent baked pudding, as well as red currants,
cherries, and plums of different sorts.

KENTISH SUET PUDDING.

To a pound and a quarter of flour add half a pound of finely
minced beef-suet,* half a teaspoonful of salt, and a.quarter one
of pepper ; mix these into a smooth paste, with one well-beaten
egg, and a little cold milk or water; make it into the shape of
a paste-roller, fold a floured cloth round it, tie the ends tightly,
and boil it for a couple of hours. In Kent this pudding is
usually sent to table with boiled beef, and is sometimes cooked
* with it also. It is very good sliced and broiled, or browned in

a Dutch oven, after having become quite cold.

Flour, 13 lb.; suet, } lb.; salt, 3 teaspoonful; half as much
pepper; 1 egg; little milk or water: boiled 2 hours.

ANOTHER SUET PUDDING.

Make into a somewhat lithe, but smooth paste, half a pound
of fine stale bread-crumbs, three quarters of a pound of flour,
from ten to twelve ounces of beef-suet, chopped extremely
small, a large half-teaspoonful of salt, and rather less of pepper,
with two eggs and a little milk. Boil it two hours and a
quarter. . :

A CHEAP SUET PUDDING.

With a pound of flour mix well an equal weight of good
potatoes boiled and. grated (or prepared by Captain Kater’s
receipt, page 302), a quarter pound of suet, and a small tea-
spoonful of salt. Make these into a stiff batter, with milk, and
boil the pudding one hour in a well-floured cloth.

APPLE, CURRANT, CHERRY, OR OTHER FRESH FRUIT PUDDING.’

Make a paste as for a beef-steak pudding, either with suet or
butter ; lay into a basin a well-floured cloth, which has been

* A very common fault with bad and careless cooks is, that of using for paste
one he as suet coarsely chopped, which is, to many eaters, distasteful to the
ast degree. } ¥ ‘ i

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. - 3738

dipped into hot water, wrung dry, and shaken out; roll the
paste thin, press it evenly into the basin upon the cloth, fill it
with apples, pared, cored, and quartered, or with any other
fruit ; put on the cover, taking care to moisten the edges of the
paste, to press them well together, and fuld them over; gather
up the ends of the cloth, and tie it firmly close to the pudding,
which should then be dropped into plenty of fast boiling water.
When it is done, lift it out by twisting a strong fork into the
corner of the cloth, turn it gently into the dish in which it is to
be served, and cut immediately a small round or square from
the top, or the pudding will quickly become heavy; send it to
table without the slightest delay, accompanied by pounded, and
by good Lisbon sugar, as many persons prefer the latter, from
its imparting a more mellowed flavour to the fruit. A small
slice of fresh butter, and some finely grated nutmeg, are usually
considered improvements to an apple pudding; the juice, and
the grated rind of a lemon may be added with good effect, when
the fruit is laid into the crust, especially in spring, when the
apples generally will have become insipid in their flavour.
When puddings are preferred boiled in moulds or basins, these
must be thickly buttered before the paste is laid into them, and
the puddings must be turned from them gently, that they may
not burst.

Currant, gooseberry, or cherry pudding, 1 to 1} hour.
Greengage, damson, mussel, or other plum, 1 to 13 hour.
Apple pudding, from 1 to 2 hours, according to its size, and
the time of year.

Obs.—If made of codlings, an apple pudding will require
only so much boiling as may be needed for the crust.

A COMMON APPLE PUDDING.

Make a light crust with one pound of flour, and six ounces of
very finely minced beef-suet, roll it thin, and fill it with one
pound and a quarter of good boiling apples; add the grated rind
and strained. juice of a small lemon, tie it in a cloth, and boil it
one hour and twenty minutes before Christmas, and from
twenty to thirty minutes longer after Christmas. A small slice
of fresh butter, stirred into it when it is sweetened will, to many
tastes, be an acceptable addition; grated nutmeg, or a little
cinnamon in fine powder, may be substituted for the lemon-rind

when either is preferred. To convert this into a richer pudding
use half a pound of butter for the crust, and add to the apples a
spoonful or two of orange or quince marmalade.

Crust: flour, 1 lb.; suet, 6 ozs. Fruit, pared and cored,

ov 4 MODERN COOKERY: [cHAP. XVII.’

13 lb.; juice and rind of 1 small lemon (or some weimey or
cinnamon in powder).

Richer pudding: flour, 1 lb.; butter, 3 Ib.; in addition to
fruit, 1 or 2 tablespoonsful of orange or quince marmalade.

THE PUBLISHER'S PUDDING.

This pudding can scarcely be made too rich. First blanch,
and then beat to the smoothest possible paste, six ounces of
fresh Jordan almonds, and a dozen bitter ones; pour very
gradually to them, in the mortar, three quarters of a pint of
boiling cream; then turn them into a cloth, and wring it from
them again with strong expression. Heat a full half pint of it
afresh, and pour it, as soon as it boils, upon four ounces of fine
bread-crumbs, set a plate over, and leave them to become nearly
cold; then mix thoroughly with them four ounces of macaroons,
erushed tolerably small; five of finely minced beef-suet, five of
marrow, cleared very carefully from fibre, and from the splinters
of bone which are sometimes found in it, and shred not very
small, two ounces of flour, six of pounded sugar, four of dried
cherries, four of the best Museatel raisins, weighed after they
are stoned, half a pound of candied citron, or of citron and
orange-rind mixed, a quarter saltspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg,
the yolks only of seven full-sized eggs, the grated rind of a large
lemon, and last of all, a glass of the best Cognac brandy, which
must be stirred briskly in by slow degrees. Pour the mixture —
into a thickly buttered mould or basin, which contains a full
quart, fill it to the brim, lay a sheet of buttered writing-paper
over, then a well-floured cloth, tie them securely, and boil the
pudding for four hours and a quarter; let it stand for a couple
of minutes before it is turned out; dish it carefully, and serve it
with the German pudding sauce of page 126.

Jordan almonds, 6 ozs.; bitter almonds, 12; cream, ? pint;
bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; cream wrung from almonds, 4 pint;
crushed macaroons, 4 ozs.; flour, 2 ozs.; beef-suet, 5 0zs.5
marrow, 5 ozs.; dried cherries, 4 ozs.; stoned Muscatel raisins,
4 ozs.; pounded sugar, 6 ozs.; candied citron (or citron and
orange-rind mixed), 4 lb.; pinch of salt; 4 nutmeg; grated
rind 1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 7; best cognac, 1 wineglassful 5
boiled in mould or basin, 44 hours.

Obs.—This pudding, which, if well made, is very light as well
as rich, will be sufficiently good for most tastes without the
almonds: when they are omitted, the boiling cream must be
poured at once to the bread-crumbs.

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 375

"ss HER MAJESTY’sS PUDDING. ©

Infuse in a pint of new milk half a pod of vanilla, cut into
short lengths, and bruised; simmer them gently together for
twenty minutes, and strain the milk through muslin to half a
pint of cream; put these again on the fire in a clean saucepan,
with three ounces of fine sugar, and pour them, when they boil,
to the beaten yolks of eight very fresh eggs. Stir the mixture
often until it is nearly or quite cold, and boil it as gently
as possible for an hour in a well-buttered mould or basin
that will just hold it. Let it stand for four minutes at least
before it is turned out; dish it carefully, strew, and garnish it
thickly with branches of preserved barberries, or send it to table
with a rich syrup of fresh fruit, or with clear fruit-jelly, melted.
We have had often a compote (see Sweet Dishes) of currants,
cherries, or plums served, and greatly relished with this pudding,
which we can recommend to our readers as an extremely
delicate one. The flavouring may’ be varied with bitter almonds,
lemon-rind, noyeau, or aught else which may be better liked
than the vanilla.

New milk, 1 pint; vanilla, 3} pod: 20 minutes. Cream, $
pint; sugar, 3 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 8: 1 hour.

Obs.—The cook must be reminded that unless the eggs be
stirred briskly as the boiling milk is gradually poured to them,
they will be likely to curdle. A buttered paper should always
be put over the basin before the cloth is tied on, for all custard
puddings.

SMALL CUSTARD PUDDING.
(Aldeburgh White Lion Receipt.)

Dissolve in half a pint of new milk a dessertspoonful of
pounded sugar, and pour it to three well-beaten eggs; strain
the mixture into a buttered basin, which should be full ; lay a
half sheet of buttered writing paper, and then a floured cloth
over it, and tie them tightly on; boil the pudding gently for
twenty-five minutes, and let it stand four or five more before it
is turned out, that it may not spread in the dish. Serve it with
wine sauce.

New milk, } pint; sugar, 1 dessertspoonful; fresh eggs, 3:
25 minutes. .

COMMON CUSTARD PUDDING,

Whisk three eggs well, put them into a pint basin, and add to
them sufficient milk to fill it; then strain, flavour, and sweeten

376 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII,

it with fine sugar; boil the pudding very softly fain exact
half hour, let it stand a few minutes, dish, and serve it with
sugar sifted over, and sweet sauce in a tureen, or send stewed
gooseberries, currants, or cherries to table with it. A small
quantity of lemon-brandy, or of ratifia can be added, to give it
flavour, when it is made, or the sugar with which it is sweetened
may be rasped on a lemon or an orange, then crushed and
dissolved in the milk; from an ounce and a half to two ounces
will be sufficient for general taste.

PRINCE ALBERT’S PUDDING.

Beat to a cream half a pound of fresh butter,* and mix with
it by degrees an equal weight of pounded loaf-sugar, dried and
sifted; add to these, after they have been well beaten together,
first the yolks, and then the whites of five fresh eggs, which
have been thoroughly whisked apart; now strew lghtly in,
half a pound of the finest flour, dried and sifted, and last of all,
half a pound of jar raisins, weighed after they are stoned. Put
these ingredients, perfectly mixed, into a well-buttered mould,
or floured cloth, and boil the pudding for three hours. Serve
it with punch sauce. We recommend a little pounded mace, or
the grated rind of a small lemon, to vary the flavour of this
excellent pudding; and that when a mould is used, slices of
candied peel should be laid rather thickly over it after it is
buttered.

Fresh butter, pounded sugar, flour, stoned raisins, each 3 Ib. ;
eggs, 5: 3 hours.

GERMAN PUDDING, AND SAUCE.

Stew, until very tender and dry, three ounces of whole rice
in a pint and a quarter of milk ; when a little cooled, mix with
it three ounces of beef-suet, finely chopped, two ounces and a
half of sugar, an ounce of candied orange or lemon-rind, six
ounces of sultana raisins, and three large eggs well beaten, and
strained. Boil the pudding in a buttered basin, or in a well-
floured cloth, for two hours and a quarter, and serve it with the
following sauce :—Dissolve an ounce and a half of sugar broken
small in two glasses of sherry, or of any other white wine, and
stir them, when quite hot, to the beaten yolks of three fresh
egos; then stir the sauce in a small saucepan held high above
the fire until it resembles custard, but by no means allow it to

* The ingredients may be mixed like those of the Sutherland puddings,
page. 396, with as good an effect, the raisins being thrown in last.

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 317

boil, or twill instantly curdle; pour it over the pudding, or, if
preferred, send it to table in a tureen. We think a full tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice added to the wine an improvement to
this sauce, which is excellent ; and we can recommend the pud-

ding also to our readers.

Milk, 14 pint; rice, 3 ozs.: 1 hour, or more. Suet, 3 ozs.;
sugar, 24 ozs.; candied peel, 1 oz.; sultana raisins, 6 ozs.; eggs,
3 large: 21 hours. Sauce: sherry, 2 glasses; sugar, 13 02z.;
yolks of eggs, 3; little lemon-juice.

We have already, in a previous part of the volume, directed
that the German sauce should be milled to a fine froth, and
poured upon the pudding with which it is served: when this is
not done, the quantity should be increased.

A CABINET PUDDING.

Split and stone three dozens of fine jar raisins, or take an
equal number of dried cherries, and place either of them regu-
larly, in a sort of pattern, in a thickly-buttered plain quart
mould or basin ; next, slice and lay into it three penny sponge-
cakes; add to these two ounces of ratifias, four macaroons, an
ounce and a half of candied citron, sliced thin, the yolks of four _
eges with the whites of three only, thoroughly whisked, mixed
with half a pint of new milk, then strained to half a pint of
sweet cream, and sweetened with two ounces and a half of
pounded sugar: these ought to fill the mould exactly. Steam
the pudding, or boil it very gently for one hour; let it stand a
few minutes before it is dished, that it may not break; and
serve it with good wine or brandy sauce.

Jar raisins, or dried cherries, 3 dozens (quart mould or basin);
sponge biscuits, 3; macaroons, 4; ratifias, 2 ozs.; candied citron,
13 0z.; yolks of 4 eggs, whites of 3; new milk, } pint; cream,
} pint ; sugar, 24 ozs.: steamed, or boiled, 1 hour.

Obs.—We have given this receipt, for which we are indebted
to a friend, without any variation from the original, because on
testing it we have found it very exact with regard to quantity
and time ; but though an’extremely delicate and excellent pud-
ding, a little flavouring would, we think, improve it: a small
portion of the milk may be omitted, and its place supplied by
ratifia, lemon-brandy, or aught else that is preferred.

A VERY FINE CABINET PUDDING:
Butter thickly a mould of the same size as for the preceding
pudding, and ornament it tastefully with dried cherries, or if
these are not procurable, with the finest bloom raisins opened

378 MODERN COOKERY, [cHAP. XVII.

\ H
and stoned ; lay lightly into it a quarter-pound of sponge biscuit
cut in slices, and intermixed with an equal weight of ratifias;
sweeten with three ounces of sugar in lumps, and flavour highly
with vanilla, or with the thin rind of half a fine lemon, and six
sound bitter almonds bruised (should these be preferred), three
quarters of a pint of thin cream, or of cream and new milk
mixed; strain and pour this hot to the well-beaten yolks of six.
eggs and the whites of two, and when the mixture is nearly
cold, throw in gradually a wineglassful of good brandy; pour it
gently, and by degrees, into the mould, and steam or boil the’
pudding very softly for an hour. Serve it with well made
wine sauce. Never omit a buttered paper over any sort of
custard-mixture; and remember that quick boiling will destroy
the good appearance of this kind of pudding. The liquid should
be quite cold before it is added to the cakes, or the butter on
the mould would melt off, and the decorations with it: pre-
served ginger, and candied citron in slices, may be used to vary
these, and the syrup of the former may be added to give flavour
to the other ingredients.

Dried ¢herries, 3 to 4 ozs.; sponge-biscuits, } lb.; ratifias,
4 ozs.; thin cream, or cream and milk, 2 pint; sugar, 3 ozs. ;
vanilla, 4 pod (or thin rind of 3} lemon and 6 bitter almonds
bruised); yolks of 6 eggs, whites of 2; brandy, 1 wineglassful
(preserved ginger and candied citron at choice): steamed, or
gently boiled, 1 hour.

MISS BREMER’S PUDDING.

Blanch, dry, and beat to the smoothest possible paste, half a
pound of fresh Jordan almonds and five or six bitter ones, and
moisten them as they are done with a few drops of water, or a
little white of egg, to prevent their oiling. Add to them in very
small portions at first, or they will be lumpy, the yolks of seven
fresh eggs, and the whites of two well beaten; then throw in
gradually four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, and whisk
the mixture thoroughly until it looks very light ; next, strew
in, continuing the whisking, four ounces of fine bread-crumbs,
and the grated rind of a lemon; and last of all, add four ounces
of just-liquid butter, which must, by no means, be heated more
than enough to dissolve it, and which must be poured in by
slow degrees, and beaten thoroughly to the other ingredients,
until there is no appearance of it left. Butter thickly a pint
and a half mould, shake fine bread-crumbs thickly and equally
over it, half fill it very gently with the pudding-mixture, and
place lightly upon this a layer of apricot-jam; put the re-

CHAP, XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 379

mainder of the pudding carefully upon it, lay a buttered paper
over the mould, then close it, or should there be no cover, tie
a cloth securely round it, and boil the pudding a full hour.
Serve it with German, or common sweet wine sauce.

Jordan almonds, 3 lb.; bitter ones, 5 or 6; yolks of 7 eggs,
whites of 2; pounded sugar, 4 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 4 02zs.;
lemon-rind, 1; butter, 4 ozs.; apricot-marmalade, 1 jarful:
full hour.

VERY GOOD RAISIN PUDDING.

To three quarters of a pound of flour add four ounces of fine
crumbs of bread, one pound of beef-suet, a pound and six ounces
of raisins, weighed after they are stoned, a quarter-teaspoonful
of salt, rather more of ginger, half a nutmeg, an ounce and a
half of candied peel, and four large or five small eggs, beaten,
strained, and mixed with a cupful of milk, or as much more as
will make the whole of the consistency of a very thick batter.
Pour the mixture into a well-floured cloth of close texture,
which has previously been dipped into hot water wrung, and
shaken out. Boil the pudding in plenty of water for four hours
and a half. It may be served with very sweet wine, or punch
sauce; but if made as we have directed, will be much lighter
than if sugar be mixed with the other ingredients before it is
boiled; and we have found it generally preferred to a richer
plum-pudding.

Flour, 3 lb.; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; beef-suet, 1 lb.; stoned
raisins, 1 lb. 6 ozs. ; candied peel, 13 oz.; 4 nutmeg; eggs, 4
large, or 5 small ; little salt and ginger: 43 hours.

A SUPERIOR RAISIN PUDDING.

Grate very lightly, but quite fine, four ounces of the crumb
of a stale loaf, and mix it with a quarter-pound of flour, twelve
ounces of beef kidney-suet, minced small, a pound of stoned
raisins, a little salt, half a small nutmeg, a saltspoonful of
pounded ginger, half as much mace, four ounces of good sugar,
two of candied citron or orange-rind, four eggs, and two or three
spoonsful of milk or brandy. Stir, and beat these ingredients
thoroughly together, pour them into a thick, well-floured cloth,
and boil the pudding for four hours.

Bread-crumbs and flour each, 4 ozs.; suet, 12 ozs.; stoned
raisins, 1 lb.; salt, third of saltspoonful; 4 nutmeg; ginger,
~4 teaspoonful; half as much mace; sugar, 4 ozs.; candied
citron or orange-rind, 2 ozs.; eggs, 4; mulk or brandy, 3 to 5
tablespoonsful: 4 hours.

380 MODERN COOKERY. — [CHAP. XVII.

Obs.—The remains of this pudding will answer Well for the
receipt which follows. .

THE ELEGANT ECONOMIST'S PUDDING.

Butter thickly a plain mould or basin, and line it entirely
with slices of cold plum or raisin pudding, cut so as to join
closely and neatly together; fill it quite with a good custard,
lay, first a buttered paper, and then a floured cloth over it, tie
them securely, and boil the pudding gently for an hour; let it
stand for ten minutes after it is taken up before it is turned out
of the mould. This is a more tasteful mode of serving the
remains of a plum-pudding than the usual one of broiling them
in slices, or converting them into fritters. The German sauce,
well milled or frothed, is generally much relished with sweet
boiled-puddings, and adds greatly to their good appearance ;
but common wine, or punch-sauce, may be sent to table with
the above quite as appropriately.

Mould or basin holding 13 pint, lined with thin slices of
plum-pudding; 3 pint new milk boiled gently 5 minutes with
grain of salt ; 6 bitter almonds, bruised; sugar in lumps, 23 ozs. ;
thin rind of 3 lemon, strained and mixed directly with 4 large

well-beaten eggs; poured into mould while just warm ; boiled —

gently 1 hour.
PUDDING A LA SCOONES.
Take of apples finely minced, and of currants, six ounces

each ; of suet, chopped small, sultana raisins, picked from the

stalks, and sugar, four ounces each, with three ounces of fine
bread-crumbs, the grated rind, and the strained juice of a
small lemon, three well-beaten eggs, and two spoonsful of
brandy. Mix these ingredients perfectly, and boil the pudding
for two hours in a buttered basin; sift sugar over it when it is
sent to table, and serve wine or punch sauce apart.

Minced apples and currants, each, 6 ozs.; suet, sultana
raisins, and sugar, each, 4 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 3°0zs.; lemon, 1 ;
eggs, 3; brandy, 2 spoonsful: 2 hours.

INGOLDSBY CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS.

Mix very thoroughly one pound of finely-grated bread with
the same quantity of flour, two pounds of raisins stoned, two of
currants, two of suet minced small, one of sugar, half a pound
of candied peel, one nutmeg, half an ounce of mixed spice, and
the grated rinds of two lemons; mix the whole with sixteen
egos well beaten and strained, and add four glasses of brandy.

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 381

These proportions will make three puddings of good size, each
of which should be boiled six hours.

Bread-crumbs, 1 lb.; flour, 1 lb.; suet, 2 lbs.; currants,
2 lbs. ; raisins, 2 Ibs.; sugar, 1 lb.; candied peel, 3 1b.; rinds of
lemons, 2; nutmegs, 1; mixed spice, 4 0z.; salt, } teaspoonsful ;
eggs, 16; brandy, 4 glassesful: 6 hours.

Obs.—A fourth part of the ingredients given above, will
make a pudding of sufficient size for a small party: to render
this very rich, half the flour and bread-crumbs may be omitted,
and a‘few spoonsful of apricot marmalade well blended with
the remainder of the mixture.*

COTTAGE CHRISTMAS PUDDING.

A pound and a quarter of flour, fourteen ounces of suet, a
pound and a quarter of stoned raisins, four ouncés of currants,
five of sugar, a quarter-pound of potatoes smoothly mashed,
half a nutmeg, a quarter-teaspoonful of ginger, the same of salf,
and of cloves in powder: mix these ingredients thoroughly,
add four well-beaten eggs with a quarter-pint of milk, tie the
pudding ina well-floured cloth, and boil it for four hours.

Flour, 14 lb.; suet, 14 ozs.; raisins stoned, 20 ozs.; currants,

4 ozs.; sugar, 5 ozs.; potatoes, + lb.; 4 nutmeg; ginger, salt,

cloves, } teaspoonful each ; eggs, 4; milk, } pint: 4 hours.

SMALL LIGHT PLUM PUDDING.

Put half a pint of fine bread-crumbs into a basin, and pour
on them a quarter-pint of boiling milk; put a plate over, and

let them soak for half an hour; then mix with them half a

pint of suet chopped extremely small, rather more of stoned
raisins, three teaspoonsful of sugar, one of flour, three eggs, a
tiny pinch of salt, and sufficient grated lemon-peel or nutmeg to
flavour it lightly. ‘Tie the pudding in a well-floured cloth, and
boil it for two hours.

Bread-crumbs, } pint; milk, } pint; suet, } pint; raisins,
nearly ? pint; sugar, 3 teaspoonful, and 1 of flour; eggs, 3;
little salt nutmeg: 2 hours. ;

ANOTHER PUDDING, LIGHT AND WHOLESOME.
With three ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf finely grated

* Rather less liquid wil! be required to moisten the pudding when this is done,
and four hours and a quarter will boii it.

+ Both this, and the preceding pudding, will be found very delicate, and weil
suited to invalids.

382 MODERN COOKERY. [onap. xvi.

and soaked in a quarter-pint of boiling milk, mix Pg ounces of
suet minced very small, one ounce of dry bread-crumbs, ten
ounces of stoned raisins, a little salt, the grated rind of a china-
orange, and three eggs, leaving out one white. Boil the pud-
. ding for two hours, and serve it with very sweet sauce; put no
sugar in it

VEGETABLE PLUM PUDDING,
(Cheap and good.)

Mix well together one pound of smoothly-mashed potatoes,
half a pound of carrots boiled quite tender, and beaten to a
paste, one pound of flour, one of currants, and one of raisins
(full weight after they are stoned), three quarters of a pound
of sugar, eight ounces of suet, one nutmeg, and a quarter-
teaspoonful of salt. Put the pudding into a well-floured cloth,
tie it closely, and boil it for four hours. The correspondent
to whom we are indebted for this receipt says, that the cost of
the ingredients does not exceed half a crown, and that the
pudding is of sufficient size for a party of sixteen persons.
We can vouch for its excellence, but as it is rather apt to
break when turned out of the cloth, a couple of eggs would
perhaps improve it. Sweetmeats, brandy, and spices can be
added at pleasure. .

Mashed potatoes, 1 lb.; carrots, 8 ozs.; flour, 1 lb.; suet,
4 lb.; sugar, # lb.; currants and raisins, 1 1b. each ; nutmeg, 1 ;
little salt: 4 hours.

AN EXCELLENT SMALL MINCRMEAT PUDDING.

Pour on an ounce of bread-crumbs sutticient boiling milk to
soak them well; when they are neariy cold drain as much of it
from them as you can, and mix them thoroughly with half a

‘pound of mincemeat, a dessertspoonful of brandy, and three eggs
beaten and strained. Boil the pudding for two hours in a well-
buttered basin, which should be full, and serve it with sauce
made with a little melted butter, half a glass of white wine, a
tablespoonful of brandy, half as much lemon-juice, and sufficient
sugar to make it tolerablv sweet.

Bread-crumbs, 1 oz. ; mincemeat, 3 lb. ; brandy, dessertspoon-
ful; eggs, 3: 2 hours.

THE AUTHOR'S CHRISTMAS PUDDING.

To three ounces of flour, and the same weight gp fine lightly-
grated bread-crumbs, add six of beef kidney-suet, chopped
sinall, six of raisins weighed after they are stoned, six of well-

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. — 883

cleaned currants, four ounces of minced apples, five of sugar,
two of candied orange-rind, half a teaspoonful of nutmeg mixed
with pounded mace, a very little salt, a small glass of brandy,
and three whole eggs. Mix and beat these ingredients well
together, tie them tightly in a thickly floured cloth, and boil
them for three hours and a half. We can recommend this as a
remarkably light small rich pudding: it may be served with
German, wine, or punch sauce.

Flour, 3 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 3 ozs. ; suet, stoned raisins, and
currants, each, 6 ozs. ; minced apples, 4 ozs.; sugar, 5 ozs. ; can-
died peel, 2 ozs. ; spice, 4 teaspoonful ; salt, few grains ; brandy
small wineglassful; eggs, 3: 3} hours.

A WELL PUDDING.

Make into a firm smooth paste, with cold water, one pound
of flour, six ounces of finely-minced beef-suet, three quarters of
a pound of currants, and a small pinch of salt, thoroughly *
mixed together. Form into a ball six ounces of good butter,
and enclose it securely in about a third of the paste (rolled to a
half inch of thickness), in the same way that an apple-dumpling
is made; roll out the remainder of the paste, and place the por-
tion containing the butter in the centre of it, with the part
where the edge was drawn together turned downwards: gather
the outer crust round it, and after having moistened the edge,
close it with great care. Tie the pudding tightly in a well-
floured cloth, and boil it for two hours and a half. It must be
dished with caution that it may not break, and a small bit must
be te directly from the top, as in a meat pudding. (See page
368).

This is a very favourite pudding in some parts of England;
the only difficulty in making or in serving it, is to prevent the
escape of the butter, which, if properly secured, will be found
in a liquid state in the inside, on opening it. Some timid cooks
fold it in three coverings of paste, the better to guard against its
bursting through; but there is no danger of this if the edges of
the crust be well closed. When suet is objected to, seven ounces
of butter may be substituted for it. The currants are occasion-
ally omitted.

Flour, 1 Ib. ; suet, 6 ozs.; currants, 3 lb.; salt, small pinch;
ball of butter, 6 ozs.: 24 hours.

ROLLED PUDDING.

Roll out thin a bit of light puff paste, or a good suet crust,
and spread equally over it to within an inch of the edge, any

384. MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XvII.

kind of fruit'jam. Orange marmalade, and mincemeat make
excellent varieties of this pudding, and a deep layer of fine brown
sugar, flavoured with the grated rind and strained juice of one
very large, or of two small, lemons, answers for it extremely
well. Roll it up carefully, pinch the paste together at the ends,
fold a cloth round, secure it well at the ends, and boil the pud-
ding from one to two hours, according to its size and the
nature of the ingredients. Half a pound of flour made into a
paste with suet or butter, and covered with preserve, will be quite
sufficiently boiled in an hour and a quarter.

BREAD PUDDING.

Sweeten a pint of new milk with three ounces of fine sugar,
throw in a few grains of salt, and pour it boiling on half a
pound of fine, and lightly-grated bread-crumbs ; add an ounce
of fresh butter, and cover them with a plate; let them remain

for half an hour or more, and then stir to them four large well-

whisked eggs, and a flavouring of nutmeg, or of lemon-rind ;

our the mixture into a thickly-buttered mould or basin, which

olds a pint and a half, and which ought to be quite full; tie a
paper and a cloth tightiy over, and boil the pudding exactly an

our and ten minutes. This is quite a plain receipt, but by ~
omitting two ounces of the bread, and adding more butter, one
egg, a small glass of brandy, the grated rind of a lemon, and as
much sugar as will sweeten the whole richly, a-very excellent
pudding will be obtained; candied orange-peel also has a good
effect when sliced thinly into it; and half a pound of currants is
generally considered a further improvement.

New milk, 1 pint; sugar, 3 ozs.; salt, few grains; bread-
crumbs, } lb.; eggs, 4 (5, if very small); nutmeg or lemon-rind
at pleasure: 1 hour and 10 minutes.

Or: milk, 1 pint; bread-crumbs, 6 ozs.; butter, 2 to 8 02s. ;
sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 5; brandy, small glassful; rind, 1 lemon.
Further additions at choice: candied peel, 14 0z.; currants, } Ib.

BROWN BREAD PUDDING.

To half a pound of stale brown bread, finely and lightly
grated, add an equal weight of suet, chopped small, and of cur-
rants cleaned and dried, with half a saltspoonful of salt, three
ounces of sugar, the third of a small nutmeg grated, twe ounces
of candied peel, five well-beaten exgs, and a glass of brandy.
Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and boil the pudding in a
cloth for three hours anda half. Send wine sauce to table with -
ths The grated rind of a large lemon may be added with good
effect.

CHAP. XVII. | BOILED PUDDINGS. 385

Brown bread, suet, and currants, each 8 ozs.; sugar, 3 0zs.;
candied peel, 2 ozs.; salt, 3 saltspoonful; 4 of small nutmeg ;
eggs, 5; brandy, 1 wineglassful: 3} hours.

A GOOD BOILED RICE PUDDING.

Swell gradually,* and boil until quite soft and thick, four
ounces and a half of whole rice in a pint and a half of new
milk; sweeten them with from three to four ounces of sugar,
broken small, and stir to them while they are still quite hot, the
‘grated rind of half a large lemon, four or five bitter almonds,
pounded to a paste, and four large well-whisked eggs; let the
mixture cool, and then pour it into a thickly buttered basin, or
mould, which should be quite full; tie a buttered paper and a
floured cloth over it, and boil the pudding exactly an hour; let
it stand for two or three minutes before it is turned out, and
serve it with sweet sauce, fruit syrup, or a compote of fresh
fruit. An ounce anda half of candied orange-rind will improve
it much, and a couple of ounces of butter may be added to
enrich it, when the receipt without is considered too simple. It
is excellent when made with milk highly flavoured with cocoa-
nut (see Chapter XX).

Whole rice, 43 ozs. ; new milk (or cocva-nut-flavoured milk),
1 pint ; sugar, 3 to 4 ozs.; salt, a few grains; bitter almonds,
4 to 6; rind of } lemon; eggs, 4: boiled 1 hour.

CHEAP RICE PUDDING.

Wash six ounces of rice, mix it with three quarters of a pound
of raisins, tie them in a well-floured cloth, giving them plenty
of room to swell ; boil them exactly an hour and three quarters,
and serve the pudding with very sweet sauce: this is a nice
dish for the nursery. A pound of apples pared, cored, and
quartered, will also make a very wholesome pudding, mixed
with the rice, and boiled from an hour and a quarter to an hour
and a half. ;

Rice, 6 ozs.; raisins, 4 lb.: 2 hours. Or, rice, 6 0zs.; apples,
1 Ib.: 14 to 14 hour.

RICE-AND-GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

Spread six ounces of rice equally over a moist and well-
floured pudding-cloth, and place on it a pint of green goose-
berries, measured after the heads and stalks have been taken off.
. Gather the cloth up carefully round the fruit, give room for the
* That is to say, put the rice into the milk while cold, heat it slowly, and let it

simmer only until it is done.
Cc

386 _MODERN COOKERY. { CHAP. XVII.

rice to swell, and boil the pudding for an hour and a quarter,
Very sweet sauce, or plenty of sugar, should be eaten with it. .
Rice, 6 ozs.; green gooseberries, 1 pint: 1} hour.

TOMATA DUMPLINGS, OR PUDDINGS.
(An American Receipt.)

“In the manner of composition, mode of cooking, and saucing,
the good housewife must proceed in the same way as she would
for ax. apple dumpling, with this exception, care must be taken
in paring the tomata not to extract the seed, nor break the meat
in the operation of skinning it. We have eaten tomatas raw
without anything ;—cut up with pepper, salt, vinegar, and mus-
tard ;—-fried in butter and in lard ;—broiled and basted with
butter ;—stewed with and without bread, with cream and with
butter ;—-and, with a clear conscience, we can say, we like them
in every way they have ever been fixed for the palate ; but of
ali the modes of dressing them, known to us, we prefer them
when cooked in dumplings, for to us it appears that the steam-
ing they receive in their dough-envelope increases in a very
high degree that delicate spicy flavour which even in their
uncooked state makes them such decided favourites with the
epicure.”

Obs.—It is possible that the tomata, which is, we know, abun-
dantly grown and served in a great variety of forms in America,
may there, either from a difference of climate, or from some
advantages of culture, be produced in greater perfection than
with us, and possess really “the delicate spicy flavour,” attri-
buted to it in our receipt, but which we cannot say we have
ever yet discovered here; nor have we put its excellence for
puddings to the proof, though some of our readers may like to
do so.

FASHIONABLE APPLE DUMPLINGS.

These are boiled in small knitied or closely-netted cloths (the
former have, we think, the prettiest effect), which give quite an
ornamental appearance to an otherwise homely dish. ‘Take out
the cores without dividing the apples, which should be large, and
of a good boiling sort, and fill the cavity with orange or lemon
marmalade, enclose them in a good crust rolled thin, draw the
cloths round them, tie them closely and boil them for three
quarters of an hour. Lemon dumplings may be boiled in the
same way.

¢ to 1 hour, if the apples be not of the best boiling kind.

CHAP, XVII. ] BOILED PUDDINGS: ‘ 387

a ORANGE SNOW-BALLS.

Take out the unhusked grains, and wash well half a pound of
rice; put it into plenty of water, and boil it rather quickly for
ten minutes; drain and let it cool. Pare four large, or five
small oranges, and clear from them entirely the thick white
inner skin ; spread the rice, in as many equal portions as there
are oranges, upon some pudding or dumpling cloths; tie the
fruit separately in these, and boil the snow-balls for an hour
and a half; turn them carefully on to a dish, and strew plenty
of sifted sugar over them.

Rice; 8 ozs. ; China oranges, 5: 14 hour.

APPLE SNOW-BALLS.

Pare and core some large pudding-apples, without dividing
them, prepare the rice as in the.foregoing receipt, enclose them ~
in it, and boil them for one hour: ten minutes less will be suffi-
cient should the fruit be but of moderate size. An agreeable
addition to them is a slice of fresh butter, mixed with as much
sugar as can be smoothly blended with it, and a flavouring of
powdered cinnamon, or of nutmeg: this must be sent to table
apart from them, not in the dish.

LIGHT CURRANT DUMPLINGS.

For each dumpling take three tablespoonsful of flour, two of
finely-minced suet, and three of currants, a slight pinch of salt,
-and as much milk or water as will make a thick batter of the
ingredients. ‘Tie the dumplings in well-floured cloths, and boil
them for a full hour: they may be served with very sweet wine
sauce.

LEMON DUMPLINGS.

Mix, with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs, half a pound of
beef-suet, chopped extremely small, one large tablespoonful of
flour, the grated rinds of two small lemons, or of a very large
one, four ounces of pounded sugar, three large, or four small
eggs beaten and strained, and last of all the juice of the lemons,
also strained. Divide these into four equal portions, tie them
in well-floured cloths, and boil them an hour. ‘The dumplings
will be extremely light and delicate; if wished very sweet more
sugar must be added to them.

SUFFOLK, OR HARD DUMPLINGS.

Mix a little salt with some flour, and make it into a smooth
and rather lithe paste, with cold water or skimmed milk; form

388 | MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XVII.

it into dumplings, and throw them into boiling water: in half
an hour they will be ready to serve. A better kind of dumpling
is made by adding sufficient milk to the flour to form a thick
batter, and then tying the dumplings in small well -floured
cloths. In Suffolk farm-houses, they are served with the drip-
ping-pan gravy of roast meat; and they are sometimes made
very small indeed, and boiled with stewed shin of beef.

NORFOLK DUMPLINGS.

Take a pound of dough from a baking of very light white
bread, and divide it into six equal parts; mould these into
dumplings, drop them into a pan of fast: boiling water, and boil
them quickly from twelve to fifteen minutes. Send them to
table the znstant they are dished, with wine sauce or raspberry
vinegar. In some counties they are eaten with melted butter,
well sweetened, and mixed with a little vinegar. They must
never be cut, but should be torn apart with a couple of forks.

SWFKET BOILED PATTIES. (GOOD.)

Mix into a very smooth paste, three ounces of finely-minced
suet, with eight of flour, and a slight pinch of salt ; divide it
into fourteen balls of equal size, roll them out quite thin and
round, moisten the edges, put a little preserve into each, close
the patties very securely to prevent its escape, throw them into
a pan of boiling water, and in from ten to twelve minutes lift
them out, and serve them instantly. Butter-crust may be used
for them instead of suet but it will not be so light.

Flour, 8 ozs.; suet, 3 ozs.; (ttle salt; divided into fourteen
portions: boiled 10 to 12 minutes.

BOILED RICE TO BE SERVED WITH STEWED FRUITS, PRESERVES,
OR RASPBERRY VINEGAR.

Take out the discoloured grains from half a pound of good
rice ; and wash it in several waters; tie it very loosely in a
pudding cloth and boil it for three quarters of an hour; it will
then be quite solid, and resemble a pudding in appearance.
Sufficient room must be given to allow the grain to swell to its
full size, or it will be hard; but too much space will render the
whole watery. With a little experience the cook will easily
ascertain the exact degree to be allowed for it. . Four ounces of
rice will require quite half an hour’s boiling; a little more or
less of time will sometimes be needed, from the difference of
quality in the grain.

Carolina ;ice, 4 1b., boiled 3 hour; 4 ozs. rice, 1 hour.

OMAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 385

CHAPTER XVIII.

BAKED PUDDINGS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

We have little to add here to the remarks which will be
found at the commencement of the preceding Chapter, as they
will apply equally to the preparation of these and of boiled
puddings.

All of the custard kind, whether made of eggs and milk only,
or of sago, arrow-root, rice, ground or in grain, vermicelli, &c.,
require a very gentle oven, and are spoiled by fast-baking.
Those made of batter, on the contrary, should be put into one
sufficiently brisk to raise them quickly, but without scorching
them. Such as contain suet and raisins must have a well-
heated, but not a fierce oven; for as they must remain long in
it to be thoroughly done, unless carefully managed, they will
either be much too highly coloured, or too dry.

By whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for
any pudding, and stirring them softly into it at the instant of
placing it in the oven, it will be rendered exceedingly light, and
will rise very high in the dish; but. as it will partake then of
the nature of a souffié, it must be despatched with great expe-
dition to table from the oven, or it will become flat before it is
served.

When a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface (that
is to say, of a fine equal amber-colour) before it is baked
through, a sheet of writing paper should be laid over it, but not
before it is se¢: when quite firm in the centre, it will be done.

Potato, batter, plum, and every other kind of pudding in-
- deed, which is sufficiently solid to allow of it, should be turned
reversed on to a clean hot dish from the one in which it is
baked, and strewed with sifted sugar, before it is sent to table.

390_ MODERN COOKERY. (omar. XVIII.

Minute directions for the preparation and management of
each particular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt
for it. ,

THE PRINTER'S PUDDING.

Grate very lightly six ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf, and
put it into a deep dish. Dissolve in a quart of cold new milk
four ounces of good Lisbon sugar; add it to five large, well-
whisked eggs; strain, and mix them with the bread-crumbs ;
stir in two ounces of a fresh finely-grated cocoa-nut; add a
flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind, and the slightest pinch
of salt; let the pudding stand for a couple of hours to soak the
bread; and bake it in a gentle oven for three quarters of an
hour: it is excellent if carefully made, and not too quickly
baked. When the cocoa-nut is not at hand, an ounce of but-
ter just dissolved, should be poured-over the dish before the
crumbs are put into it; and the rind of an entire lemon may be
used to give it flavour; but the cocoa-nut imparts a peculiar
richness when it is good and fresh.

Bread-crumbs, 6 ozs. ; new milk, 1 quart; sugar, 4 ozs ; eggs,
5; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs.; (or rind, 1 large lemon, and 1 oz. butter)
slightest pinch of salt: to stand 2 hours. Baked in gentle oven
full 2 hour. ‘

Obs.—When a very sweet pudding is liked, the proportion of
sugar may be increased.

ALMOND PUDDING.

On two ounces of fine white bread-crumbs pour a pint of
boiling cream, and let them remain until nearly cold, then mix
them very gradually with half a pound of sweet and six bitter
almonds pounded to the smoothest paste, with a little orange-
flower water, or, when this is not at hand, with a few drops of

spring water, just to prevent their oiling; stir to them by de- |

grees the well-beaten yolks of seven and the whites of three
eggs, six ounces of sifted sugar, and four of clarified butter ;
turn the mixture into a very clean stewpan, and stir it without
ceasing over a slow fire until it becomes thick, but on no account
allow it to boil. When it is tolerably cool add a glass of
brandy, or half a one of noyeau, pour the pudding into a dish
lined with very thin puff paste, and bake it half an hour ina
moderate oven.

Bread-crumbs, 2 ozs.; cream, 1 pint; pounded almonds, } Ib.;
bitter almonds, 6; yolks of 7, whites of 3 eggs; sugar, 6 ozs. 5

CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 391

butter, 4 ozs.; brandy, 1 wineglassful, or } glass of noyeau: }
hour, moderate oven.

AN EXCELLENT LEMON PUDDING.

Beat well together four ounces of fresh butter, creamed, and
eight of sifted sugar; to these add gradually the yolks of six
and the whites of two eggs, with the grated rind and the strained
juice of one large lemon :—this last must be added by slow de-
grees, and stirred briskly to the other ingredients. Bake the
pudding in a dish lined with very thin puff-paste for three
quarters of an hour, in a slow oven.

Butter, 4 ozs.; sugar,} lb.; yolks of 6, whites of 2 eggs; large
lemon, 1: # hour, slow oven.

ANOTHER LEMON PUDDING.
( Good.)

Stir over a slow fire until they boil, four ounces and a half
of butter with seven ounces of pounded sugar, then pour them
into a dish and let them remain until cold, or nearly so. Mix
very smoothly.a large dessertspoonful of flour with six eggs
that have been whisked and strained; add these gradually
to the sugar and butter, with the grated rinds and the juice
of two moderate-sized lemons; put a border or a lining of
puff-paste to the pudding, and bake it for an hour in a gentle
oven.

Butter, 44 ozs.; sugar, 7 ozs.; flour, 1 large dessertspoonful;
eges, 6; lemons, 2: 1 hour, gentle oven.

Obs.—The proportion of butter in these puddings is less than
is commonly used for them, but a larger quantity renders them
so unwholesomely rich that they are usually preferred with
less. When a very powerful flavour of the fruit is liked, an
additional lemon may be used in either of these receipts. The
rinds may be rasped on part of the sugar, instead of being
grated. A couple of sponge-biscuits soaked in cream, then
pressed dry, and very finely bruised, can be substituted for the
flour.

LEMON SUET PUDDING.

To eight ounces of finely grated bread-crumbs, add six of
fresh beef kidney-suet, free from skin, aud minced very small,
three and a half of pounded sugar, six ounces of currants, the
grated rind and the strained juice of a darge lemon, and four
full-sized or five small well-beaten eggs; pour these ingredients
into a thickly-buttered pan, and bake the pudding for an hour ina

392 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVIII.

brisk oven, but draw it towards the mouth when it is of a fine
brown colour. ‘Turn it from the dish before it is served, and
strew sifted sugar over it or not, at pleasure : two ounces more of
suet can be added when a larger proportion is liked. The pud-
- ding is very good without the currants. ak

Bread-crumbs, 8 ozs.; beef-suet, 6 ozs.; pounded sugar, 3}
ozs.; lemon, 1 large ; currants, 6 ozs.; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small:
1 hour, brisk oven.

BAKEWELL PUDDING.

This pudding is famous not only in Derbyshire, but in several
of our northern counties, where it is usually served on all
holiday-occasions. Line a shallow tart-dish with quite an inch-
deep layer of several kinds of good preserve mixed together,
and intermingle with them from two to three ounces of candied
citron or orange-rind. Beat well the yolks of ten eggs, and add
to them gradually half a pound of sifted sugar; when they are
well mixed, pour in by degrees half a pound of good clarified
butter, and a little ratifia or any other flavour that may be pre-
' ferred; fill the dish two thirds full with this mixture, and bake
the pudding for nearly an hour in a moderate oven. Half the
quantity will be sufficient for a small dish.

Mixed preserves, 1} to 2 lbs.; yolks of eggs, 10; sugar, 4 Ib. ;
butter, 4 lb.; ratifia, lemon-brandy, or other flavouring to the
taste: baked, moderate oven, ? to 1 hour.

Obs.—This is a rich and expensive, but not a very refined
pudding. A variation of it, known in the south as an Alder-
man’s Pudding is, we think, superior to it. It is made without
the candied peel, and with a layer of apricot-jam only, six ounces
of butter, six of sugar, the yolks of six, and the whites of two

eggs.
RATIFIA PUDDING.

Flavour a pint and a half of new milk rather highly with
bitter almonds, blanched and bruised, or, should their use be
objected to, with three or four bay leaves and a little cinnamon;
add a few grains of salt, and from four to six ounces of sugar in
lumps, according to the taste. When the whole has simmered
gently for some minutes, strain off the milk through a fine sieve
or muslin, put it into a clean saucepan, and when it again boils
stir it gradually and quickly to six well-beaten eggs which have
been likewise strained ; let the mixture cool, and then add to it
a glass of brandy. Lay a half-paste round a well-buttered
dish, and sprinkle into it an ounce of ratifias finely crumbled,

, CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 393

grate the rind of a lemon over,* and place three ounces of whole
ratifias upon them, pour in sufficient of the custard to soak
them; an hour afterwards add the remainder, and send the -
pudding to a gentle oven: half an hour will bake it.

New milk, 14 pint; bitter almonds, 8 to 10 (or bay leaves,
3 to 5, and bit of cinnamon); sugar, 4 to 6 ozs.; eggs, 6;
feuey, 1 wineglassful ; ratifias, 4 ozs.; rind } lemon: baked,
3 hour. , ' ;

THE ELEGANT ECONOMIST'S PUDDING.

We have already given a receipt for an exceedingly good
boiled pudding bearing this title, but we think the baked one
answers even better, and it is made with rather more facility.
Butter a deep tart-dish well, cut the slices of plum-pudding to
join exactly in lining it, and press them against it lightly to
make them adhere, as without this precaution they are apt to
float off; pour in as much custard (previously thickened and
left to become cold), or any other sweet pudding mixture as will
fill the dish almost to the brim; cover the top with thin slices
of the plum pudding, and bake it in a slow oven from thirty
minutes to a full hour, according to the quantity and quality of
the contents. One pint of new milk poured boiling on an
ounce and a half of tows les mois, smoothly mixed with a quarter
pint of cold milk, makes with the addition of four ounces of
sugar, four small eggs, a little lemon-grate, and two or three
bitter almonds, or a few drops of ratifia, an excellent pudding of
this kind; it should be baked nearly three quarters of an hour
in a quite slack oven. Two ounces and a half of arrow-root
may be used in lieu of the tous les mots, when this last is not
procurable. We would especially recommend for trial the
ingredients of the lemon-pudding of page 391,f with the plum-
pudding crust, as likely to make a very superior variety of this
dish ; we have not had it tested, but think it could scarcely fail.
It must be well, though slowly baked.

RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.

Give a good flavour of lemon-rind and bitter almonds, or of
cinnamon, if preferred, to a pint of new milk, and when it has —
simmered a sufficient time for this, strain and mix it with a
quarter-pint of rich cream; sweeten it with four ounces of sugar
in lumps, and stir it while still hot to five well-beaten eggs ;

* A more delicate flavour is imparted by rasping the lemon-rind on sugar, and

adding this to the mixture.
+ Second receipt.

394 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVIII.

throw in a few grains of salt, and move the mixture briskly with
a spoon as a glass of brandy is added to it. Have ready ina
thickly-buttered dish three layers of thin bread and butter cut
from a half-quartern loaf, with four ounces of currants, and
one and a half of finely shred candied peel, strewed between and
over them; pour the eggs and milk on them by degrees, letting
the bread absorb one portion before another is added: it should
soak for a couple of hours before the pudding is taken to the
oven, which should bea moderate one. Half an hour will bake
it. It is very good when made with new milk only; and some
persons use no more than a pint of liquid in ally but part of the
whites of the eggs may then be omitted. Cream may be
substituted for the entire quantity of milk at pleasure.

New milk, 1 pint; rind of small lemon, and 6 bitter almonds
bruised (or 3} drachm of cinnamon): simmered 10 to 20
minutes. Cream, 4 pint; sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 6; brandy, 1
wineglassful. Bread and butter, 3 layers; currants, 4 ozs. ;
candied orange or lemon-rind, 14 0z.: to stand 2 hours, and to
be baked 30 minutes in a moderate oven.

COMMON BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.

Sweeten a pint and a half of milk with four ounces of Lisbon
sugar; stir it to four large well-beaten eggs, or to five small
ones, grate half a nutmeg to them, and pour the mixture into a
dish which holds nearly three pints, and which is filled almost
to the brim with layers of bread and butter, between which
three ounces of currants have been strewed. Lemon-grate, or
orange-flower water can be added to this pudding instead of
nutmeg, when preferred. From three quarters of an hour to
an hour will bake it.

Milk, 1} pint; Lisbon sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 4 large, or 5
smail; 4 small nutmeg; currants, 3 ozs.: baked ~ to 1 hour.

A GOOD BAKED BREAD PUDDING.

Pour, quite boiling, on six ounces (or three quarters of a pint)
‘of fine bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter, a pint of new
milk, cover them closely, and let them stand until the bread is
well soaked ; then stir to them three ounces of sugar, five eggs,
leaving out two of the whites, two ounces of candied orange-
rind, sliced thin, and a flavouring of nutmeg; when the
mixture is nearly or quite cold pour it into a dish, and place
lightly over the top the whites of three eggs beaten to a firm
froth, and mixed at the instant with three large tablespoonsful
of sifted sugar. Bake the pudding half an hour in a moderate

CHAP. XVIII. | ‘BAKED PUDDINGS. 395

oven. The icing may be omitted, and an ounce and a half of
butter, just warmed, put into the dish before the pudding, and
plenty of sugar sifted over it just as it is sent to the oven.

Bread, 6 ozs.; butter, 1 oz.; milk, 1 pint; sugar, 2 ozs.;
eggs, 5 yolks, 3 whites; candied orange-rind, 2 ozs. ; little nut-
one Icing, 3 whites of eggs; sugar, 3 tablespoonsful: baked,
4 hour.

ANOTHER BAKED BREAD PUDDING,

Add to a pint of new milk a quarter-pint of good cream, and
pour them boiling on eight ounces of bread crumbs, and three
of fresh butter; when these have stood half an hour covered
with a plate, stir to them four ounces of sugar, six ounces of
currants, one and a half of candied orange or citron, and five

eggs.
A GOOD SEMOULINA PUDDING.

Drop lightly into a pint and a half of boiling milk two large
tablespoonsful of semoulina, and stir them together as this is
done, that the mixture may not be lumpy ; continue the stirring
for seven or eight minutes, then throw in two ounces of good
butter, and three and a half of pounded sugar, or of the finest
Lisbon ; next add the grated rind of a lemon, and, while the
semoulina is still hot, beat gradually and briskly to it five well-
whisked eggs; pour it into a buttered dish, and bake it about
half an hour in a moderate oven.

New milk, 14 pint; semoulina, 2} ozs.: 7 to 8 minutes. Su-
gar, 34 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; rind of lemon; eggs, 5: baked in
moderate oven, } hour.

FRENCH SEMOULINA PUDDING 3
Or, Géteau de Semoule,

Infuse by the side of the fire, in a quart of new milk, the very
thin rind of a fine fresh lemon, and when it has stood for half
an hour bring it slowly to a boil: simmer it for four or five
minutes, then take out the lemon rind, and throw lightly into
the milk, stirring it all the time, five ounces of the best quality
of semoulina ;* let it boil over a gentle fire for ten minutes, then
add four ounces of sugar roughly powdered, three of fresh but-

* We have never in England, and rarely even in France, obtained any ap-
proaching in quality to some, which, in conjunction with a packet of vermicelli,
equally good, was procured for. us by a country chemist, from Mr. Barron, 18,
ray Mall, whose successor, Mr. A. Cobbett, supplies excellent articles of the same

ind.

396 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. Xvimt.

ter, and less than a small quarter-teaspoonful of salt; boil the
mixture for two or three additional minutes, keeping it stirred
without ceasing ; take it from the fire, let it cool a little, and
stir to it briskly, and by degrees, the yolks of six eggs and the
whites of four well beaten together, and strained or prepared for
use as directed at page 364: four or five bitter almonds,
pounded with a little sugar, will heighten the flavour pleasantly
to many tastes. When the pudding is nearly cold, pour it
gently into a stewpan or mould, prepared as for the Gateau de
Riz of page 397, and bake it in a very gentle oven from an hour ~
and a quarter to an hour and a half. :

SUTHERLAND OR CASTLE PUDDINGS.

Take an equal weight of eggs in the shell, of good butter, of
fine dry flour, and of sifted sugar. First, whisk the eggs for ten
minutes, or until they appear extremely light; then throw in
the sugar by degrees, and continue the whisking for four or
five minutes ; next, strew in the flour, also gradually, and when
it appears smoothly blended with the other ingredients, pour
the butter to them in small portions, each of which should be
beaten in until there is no appearance of it left. It should pre-
viously be just liquefied with the least possible degree of heat;
this may be effected by putting it into a well-warmed saucepan,
and shaking it round until it is dissolved. A grain or two of
salt should be thrown in with the flour; and the rind of half
a fine lemon rasped on sugar, or grated, if more convenient,
or some pounded mace, or the store-flavouring of page 139, can
be added at choice. Pour the mixture, directly it is ready, into
well-buttered cups, and bake the puddings from twenty to
twenty five minutes. When cold, they resemble good pound
cakes, and may be served as such. Wine sauce should be sent
to table with them.

Eggs, 4; their weight in flour, sugar, and butter; dzté/e salt ;
flavouring of pounded mace or lemon-rind.

Obs.—Three eggs are sufficient for a small dish of these pud-
dings. They may be varied with an ounce or two of candied
citron; or with a spoonful of brandy, or a little orange flower
water. The mode we have given of making them will be found
perfectly successful if our directions be followed with exact-
pia In a slack oven they will not be too much baked in half
an hour.

CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 397

MADELEINE PUDDINGS
(To be served cold.)

Take the same ingredients as for the Sutherland puddings,
but clarify an additional ounce of butter; skim, and then fill
some round tin pattypans with it almost to the brim, pour it
from one to the other until all have received a sufficient coating
to prevent the puddings from adhering to them, and leave half
a teaspoonful in each; mix the remainder with the eggs, sugar, |
and flour, beat the whole up very lighily, fill the pans about
two thirds full, and put them directly into a rather brisk oven,
but draw them towards the mouth of it when they are suff-
ciently coloured; from fifteen to eighteen minutes will bake
them. Turn them out, and drain them on a sheet of paper.
When they are quite cold, with the point of the knife take out
a portion of the tops, hollow the puddings a little, and fill them
with rich apricot-jam, well mixed with half its weight of
pounded almonds, of which two in every ounce should be bitter
ones.

A FRENCH RICE PUDDING, OR GATEAU DE RIZ.

Swell gently in a quart of new milk, or in equal parts of
milk and cream, seven ounces of the best Carolina rice, which
has been cleared of the discoloured grains, and washed and
drained; when it is tolerably tender, add to it three ounces of
fresh butter, and nve of sugar roughly powdered, a few grains
of salt, and the lightly grated rind of a fine lemon, and simmer
the whole until the rice is swollen to the utmost; then take it
from the fire, let it cool a little, and stir to it quickly, and by
degrees, the well-beaten yolks of six full-sized eggs. Pour
into a small copper stewpan* a couple of ounces of clarified
butter, and incline it in such a manner that it may receive an
equal coating in every part; then turn it upside down for an
instant, to drain off the superfluous butter; next, throw in
some exceedingly fine light crumbs of stale bread, and shake
them entirely over it, turn out those which do not adhere, and
with a small brush or feather sprinkle more clarified butter
slightly on those which line the pan. Whisk quickly the
whites of the eggs to snow, stir them gently to the rice, and
pour the mixture softly into the stewpan, that the bread-
crumbs may not be displaced; put it immediately into a mode-

* One which holds about five pints is well adapted to the purpose. When this
is not at hand, a copper cake-mould may be substituted for it. The stewpan
taust not be covered while the gateau is baking.

398 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XVIII.

rate oven, and let it remain in a full hour. It will then, if
properly baked, turn out from the mould or pan well browned,
quite firm, and having the appearance of a cake; but a fierce
heat will cause it to break, and present an altogether un-
sightly appearance. In a very slack oven a longer time must
be allowed for it. .

New milk, or milk and cream, 1 quart ; Carolina rice, 7 ozs.:
$ hour. Fresh butter, 3 ozs.; sugar, in lumps, 5 ozs.; rind,
1 large lemon: ? to 1i hour. Eggs, 6: baked in a moderate
oven, 1 hour.

Obs.—An admirable variety of this gateau is made with
cocoa-nut flavoured milk, or cream (see Chapter XX.), or
with either of these poured boiling on six ounces of Jordan
almonds, finely pounded, and mixed with a dozen of bitter
ones, then expressed from them with strong pressure; it may
likewise be flavoured with vanilla, or with candied orange-
blossoms, and covered at the instant it is dished, with straw-
berry, apple, or any other clear jelly.

A COMMON RICE PUDDING.

Throw six ounces of rice into plenty of cold water, and boil
it gently from eight to ten minutes; drain it well in a sieve or
strainer, and put it into a clean saucepan with a quart of milk;
let it stew until tender, sweeten it with three ounces of sugar,
stir to it, gradually, three large, or four small eggs, beaten and
strained ; add grated nutmeg, lemon-rind, or cinnamon, to give
it flavour, and bake it one hour in a gentle oven.

Rice, 6 ozs.; in water, 8 to 10 minutes. Milk, 1 quart:
8 tol hour. Sugar, 3 ozs.; eggs, 3 large, or 4 small; flayour-
ing of nutmeg, lemon-rind, or cinnamon: bake 1 hour, gentle
oven. |

RICHER RICE PUDDING.

Pick and wash very clean four ounces of whole rice, pour on
it a-pint and a half of new milk, and stew it slowly till quite
tender ; before it is taken from the fire, stir in two ounces of
good butter, and three of sugar ; and when it has cooled a little,
add four well-whisked eggs, and the grated rind of half a
lemon. Bake the pudding in a gentle oven from thirty to _
forty minutes. As rice requires long boiling to render it soft in
milk, it may be partially stewed in water, the quantity of milk
diminished to a pint, anda little thick sweet cream mixed with

__ it, before the other ingredients are added.

CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 399

Rice, 4 ozs.; new milk, 14; butter, 2 ozs.; sugar, 3 02s. ;
eggs, 4; rind of } lemon: 30 to 40 minutes, slow oven.

RICE PUDDING MERINGUE.

Swell gently four ounces of Carolina rice in a pint and a
quarter of milk or of thin cream ; let it cool a little, and stir to
it an ounce and a half of butter, three of pounded sugar, a
grain or two of salt, the grated rind of a small lemon, and the
yolks of four large, or of five small eggs. Pour the mixture
into a well-buttered dish, and lay lightly and equally over the
top the whites of four eggs, beaten as for sponge cakes, and
mixed at the instant with from four to five heaped tablespoons-
ful of sifted sugar. Bake the pudding half an hour in a mode-
rate oven, but do not allow the meringue to be too deeply
coloured ; it should be of clear brown, and very crisp. Serve it

directly it is taken from the oven.
Rice, 4.0zs.; milk, or cream, 14 pint; butter, 14 oz. ; sugar,
3 0zs.; rind, 1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 4 or 5; the whites beaten
to snow, and mixed with as many tablespoonsful of sifted sugar :
baked 4 hour, moderate oven.

Qbs.—A couple of ounces of Jordan almonds, with six bitter
ones, pounded quite to a paste, will improve this dish, whether
mixed with the pudding itself, or with the meringue.

GOOD GROUND RBICE PUDDING.

. Mix very smoothly five ounces of flour of rice (or of ground
rice, if preferred), with half a pint of milk, and pour it intoa
pint and a half more which is boiling fast; keep it stirred con-
stantly over a gentle fire from ten to twelve minutes, and be
particularly careful not to let it burn to the pan; add to it
before it is taken from the fire, a quarter of a pound of good
butter, from five to six ounces of sugar, roughly powdered, and
a half-saltspoonful of salt; turn it into a pan, and stir it fora
few minutes, to prevent its hardening at the top; then mix with
it, by degrees, but quickly, the yolks of eight eggs, and the
whites of only two, the grated or rasped rind of a fine lemon,
and a glass of brandy. Lay a border of rich paste round a
buttered dish, pour in the pudding, strain a little clarified
butter over the top, moisten the paste with a brush, or small
bunch of feathers dipped in cold water, and sift plenty of sugar
_ on it, but less over the pudding itself. Send it to a very gentle
oven to be baked for three quarters of an hour.

Rice-flour (or ground rice), 5 ozs.; new milk, 1 quart: 10 to

12 minutes. Butter, 4 ozs.; sugar, 5 to 6 ozs. ; salt, } saltspoon-

— 400 =, MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XvIIt.

ful ; yolks, 8 eggs; whites, 2; rind, 1 large lemon; brandy, large
wineglassful: 2 hour, slow oven.

Obs.—These proportions are sufficient for a pudding of larger
size than those served usually at elegant tables; they will make —
two small ones; or two thirds of the quantity may be taken for
one of moderate size. Lemon-brandy or ratifia, or a portion of
each, may be used to give it flavour, with good effect; and it
may be enriched, if this be desired, by adding to the other
ingredients from three to four ounces of Jordan almonds, finely
pounded, and by substituting cream for half of the milk.

COMMON GROUND RICE PUDDING.

One pint and a half of milk, three ounces and a half of rice,
three of Lisbon sugar, one and a half of butter, some nutmeg,
of lemon-grate, and four eggs, baked slowly for half an hour,
or more, if not quite firm.

GREEN GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

Boil together, from ten to twelve minutes, a pound of green
gooseberries, five ounces of sugar, and rather more than a
quarter-pint of water ; then beat the fruit to a mash, and stir to
it an ounce and a half of fresh butter; when nearly, or quite
cold, add two ounces and a half of very fine bread-crumbs, and
four well-whisked eggs. Bake the pudding half an hour. To
make a finer one of the kind, work the fruit through a sieve,
mix it with four or five crushed Naples biscuits, and use double
the quantity of butter.

Green gooseberries, 1 Ib.; sugar, 5 ozs.; water, full + pint:
10 to 12 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 24 ozs. ; eggs, 4: 4 hour.

Obs.—Spring fruit (rhubarb), is sometimes made into this
kind of pudding, but we cannot particularly recommend it, It
is infinitely better in a tart, or as a compote.

POTATO PUDDING.

With a pound and a quarter of fine mealy potatoes, boiled
very dry, and mashed perfectly smooth while hot, mix three
ounces of butter, five-and a half of sugar, five eggs, a few grains
of salt, and the grated rind of a small lemon. Pour the mixture
into a well-buttered dish, and bake it in a moderate oven for
nearly three quarters of an hour. It should be turned out and
sent to table with fine sugar sifted over it; or for variety, red
currant jelly, or any other preserve may be spread on it as soon
as it is dished.

CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 401

Potatoes, 14 lb. ; butter, 3 ozs.: sugar, 5} ozs.; eggs, 5; lemon-
rind, 1; salt, few grains: 40 to 45 minutes.

Obs.—When cold, this pudding eats like cake, and may be
served as such, omitting, of course, the sugar or preserve, when
it is dished.

A RICHER POTATO PUDDING.

Beat well together fourteen ounces of mashed potatoes, four
ounces of butter, four of fine sugar, five eggs, the grated rind of
a small lemon, and a slight pinch of salt; add half a glass of
brandy, and pour the pudding into a thickly-buttered dish,
ornamented with slices of candied orange or lemon rind; pour a
little clarified butter on the top, and then sift plenty of white
sugar over it.

Potatoes. 14 ozs.; butter, 4 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 5 ; lemon
rind, 1; little salt; brandy, } glassful; candied peel, 14 to 2 ozs.:
40 minutes.

Obs.—The potatoes for these receipts should be lightly and
carefully mashed, but never pounded in a mortar, as that will
convert them into a heavy paste. The better plan is to prepare
them by Captain Kater’s receipt (page 302), when they will fall
to powder almost of themselves; or they may be grated while
hot through a wire-sieve. From a quarter to a half pint of
@eam is, by many cooks, added to potato puddings.

AN EXCELLENT SPONGE CAKE PUDDING.

Slice into a well-buttered tart-dish three penny sponge cakes,
and place on them a couple of ounces of candied orange or
lemon-peel cut in strips. Whisk thoroughly six eggs, and stir
to them boiling a pint and a quarter of new milk, in which
three ounces of sugar have been dissolved; grate in the rind of
a small lemon, and when they are somewhat cooled, add half a
wineglassful of brandy ; while still warm, pour the mixture on
to the cakes, and let it remain an hour; then strain an ounce
and a half of clarified butter over the top, sift or strew pounded
sugar rather thickly on it, and bake the pudding for half an hour
in a moderate oven.

Sponge cakes, 3; candied peel, 2 ozs.; eggs, 6; new milk,
1} pint; sugar, 3 0zs.; lemon-rind, 1; brandy, 3 glass; butter,
1 oz.; sifted sugar, 1} oz.: 4 hour.

THE DUCHESS’S PUDDING.
Mix with half a pound of potatoes very smoothly mashed,
three quarters of a pound of mincemeat, the grated rind of half
DD

4C2 MODERN COOKERY. [oHap. XVIII.

a lemon, a dessertspoonful of sugar, and four large, or five
small eggs; pour the whole into a well-buttered dish, and put
over the top clarified butter and sugar, as in the preceding
receipt. Bake the pudding for a full hour and twenty minutes.

Potatoes, 4 lb.; mincemeat, 3 lb.; rind of lemon, 3; sugar,
1 dessertspoonful ; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small: 1 hour 20 minutes.

BAKED APPLE PUDDING, OR CUSTARD.

Weigh a pound of good boiling apples after they are pared
and cored, and stew them to a perfectly smooth marmalade,
with six ounces of sugar, and a spoonful or two of water: stir
them often that they may not stick to the pan. Mix with them
while they are still quite hot, three ounces of butter, the grated
rind and the strained juice ‘of a lemon, and lastly, stir in by
degrees the well-beaten yolks of five eggs, and a dessertspoonful
of flour, or in lieu of the last, three or four Naples’ biscuits, or
macaroons crushed small. Bake the pudding for a full half
hour in a moderate oven, or longer should it not be quite firm
in the middle. A little clarified butter poured on the top,
with sugar sifted over, improves all baked puddings.

Apples, 1 lb.; sugar, 6 ozs.; water, 1 cupful; butter, 3 ozs. ;
juice and rind, 1 lemon; 5 eggs: 3 hour, or more.

Obs. —Many cooks press the apples through a sieve after
they are boiled, but this is not needful when they are of a go
kind, and stewed, and beaten smooth.

ANOTHER BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

Stew until smooth and dry, a pound of apples, with seven
ounces of sugar, and a very little water; add to them five
ounces of butter, the grated rinds of two moderate-sized lemons,
and the juice of one and a half, the beaten yolks of six eggs,
and the whites of three; do not add the eggs until the butter is
dissolved, then stir them in quickly in small portions ; beat the
whole well together; add, if it can be obtained, two or three .
spoonsful of the syrup of preserved ginger, and one of flour, or
a little crushed Naples’ biscuit, put a border of paste round a
dish, pour in the pudding, and bake it from half to three
quarters of an hour.

Apples, 1 lb.; sugar, 7 ozs.; water, 4 tablespoonsful; butter,
5 ozs.; rinds of 2 lemons, juice of 14; yolks of eggs, 6, whites, 3;
syrup of preserved ginger, 3 spoonsful: 30 to 45 minutes.

A COMMON BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
Boil a pound and a quarter of apples with half a small cupful

CHAP, XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 403

of water and six ounces of brown sugar; when they are reduced
to a smooth pulp, stir to them two ounces of butter, a table-
spoonful of flour, or a handful of fine bread-crumbs, and five
well-beaten eggs; grate in half a nutmeg, or flavour the
pudding with pounded cinnamon, and bake it nearly three
quarters of an hour. More or less of sugar will be required for
these puddings, according to the time of year, as the fruit is
much more acid when first gathered than when it has been
some months stored.

Apples, 13 lb.; water, 4 small cupful; sugar, 6 ozs.; butter,
2 ozs.; flour, 1 tablespoonful, or bread-crumbs, 1 handful;
% nutmeg; eggs, 5: ¢ hour.

ESSEX PUDDING. (CHEAP AND GOOD.)

Mix with a quarter of a pound of mashed potatoes, haif a
pound of good boiling apples minced, four ounces of brown
sugar, four small eggs well beaten and strained, and a little
grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. Increase the ingredients one
half, and add two ounces of butter, should a, larger and better
pudding be desired: about half an hour will bake it.

Potatoes mashed, 4 ozs.; apples, 8 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs,
4: 4 hour.

DUTCH CUSTARD, CR BAKED RASPBERRY PUDDING.

Lay into a tart-dish a border of puff-paste, and a pint and a
half of freshly-gathered raspberries, well mixed with three
ounces of sugar. Whisk thoroughly six large eggs with three
ounces more of sugar, and pour it over the fruit: bake the
pudding from twenty-five to thirty minutes in a moderate oven.

Break the eggs one at a time into a cup, and with the, point
of a small three-pronged fork take off the specks or germs, be-
fore they are beaten, as we have directed in page 364.

Raspberries, 13 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; eggs, 6: 25 to 30
minutes.

GABRIELLE’S PUDDING, OR SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE.

Wash half a pound of the best whole rice, drain it on a hair-
sieve, put it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan, and pour on
it a quart of cold new milk. Stir them well together, and place
them near the fire that the rice may swell very gradually; then
let it simmer as gently as possible for about half an hour, or
until it begins to be quite tender; mix with it then, two
ounces of fresh butter and two and a half of pounded sugar,
and let it continue to simmer softly until it is dry and perfectly

404 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. Xvi.
tender.* Before it is taken from the fire, scrape into it the out-
side of some sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a
fresh lemon. Have ready a tin mould of pretty form, wel!
buttered in every part; press the rice into it while it is still hot,
smooth the surface, and let it remain till cold. Should the
mould. be one which opens at the ends, like that shewn in the
plate at 334, the pudding will come out easily ; but if it should
be in a plain common one, just dip it into hot water to loosen it;
turn out the rice, and then again reverse it on to a tin or dish,
and with the point of a knife mark round the top a rim of about
an inch wide; then brush some clarified butter over the whole
pudding, and set it into a brisk oven. When it is of an equal
light golden brown draw it out, raise the cover carefully
where it is marked, scoop out the rice from the inside, leaving
only a crust of about an inch thick in every part, and pour into
it some preserved fruit warmed in its own syrup, or fill it with
a compote of plums or peaches (see Chapter XX); or with some
good apples boiled with fine sugar to a smooth rich marmalade.
This is a very good as well as an elegant dish: it may be en-
riched with more butter, and by substituting cream for the milk
in part, or entirely, but it is excellent without either.

Rice, 3 Ib. ; new milk, 1 quart: } hour. Fresh butter, 2 ozs. ;
pounded sugar, 2} ozs.; rasped rind, 1 lemon: 3 hour or more.

Obs.—The precise time of baking the pudding cannot well be
specified : it only requires colour.

VERMICELLI PUDDING. 3

Drop lightly into a pint and a half of boiling’ milk four
ounces of fresh vermicelli, and keep it simmering and stirred
gently for ten minutes, when it will have become very thick ;
then mix with it three ounces and a half of sugar, two ounces
of butter, and a small pinch of salt. When the whole is well
blended pour it out; beat it for a couple of minutes to cool it
a little; then add by degrees five well-whisked eggs, the grated
rind of a lemon, and just before it is put into the dish, a small
glass of brandy: bake it from half, to three quarters of an hour.
Vermicelli varies much in quality, and of some kinds three
ounces will render the pudding quite firm enough.

Milk, 14 pint; vermicelli, 4 0zs.; 10 minutes. Sugar, 3} ozs. ;
butter, 2 ozs.; pinch of salt; eggs, 5; lemon-rind, 1; brandy,
1 wineglassful: } to ? hour.

Obs.—This pudding requires, more than many others, a

* Unless the rice be boiled slowly, and very dry, it will not answer for the
casserole.

CHAP. XVIII. BAKED PUDDINGS. 405

little clarified butter poured on the top, and sugar sifted over.
Candied peel may be added. to it with good effect; and three

or four bitter almonds pounded, may be used to give it flavour
instead of lemon-rind.

SMALL COCOA-NUT PUDDINGS.

Melt together over a slow fire two ounces of fresh butter cut
small, and four of pounded sugar; pour them out when they
have boiled for a couple of minutes, and let them cool; mix
with them two ounces of finely-grated cocoa-nut, an ounce of
citron shred small, the grated rind of half a large lemon, and
four eggs: when these have been well beaten together, add the
strained juice of the half lemon; put the mixture into buttered
eur or pudding-cups, sift sugar over, and bake them

alf an hour in a moderate oven. ‘This is an excellent and a
perfectly new receipt ; but mm making use of it care should be
taken to ascertain that the nut be fresh and sweet flavoured, as
the slightest degree of rancidity will spoil the puddings. They
are better hot than cold, though very good either way.

Fresh butter, 2 ozs.; pounded sugar, 3 lb.; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. ;
candied citron, 1 0z.; rind and juice of 4 lemon; eggs, 4: 3 hour.

Obs.—The same ingredients may be made into one pudding
only, and longer baked.

GOOD YORKSHIRE PUDDING.

To make a very good and light Yorkshire pudding, take an
equal number of eggs and of heaped tablespoonsfuls of: flour,
with a teaspoonful of salt to six of these. Whisk the eggs well,
strain, and mix them gradually with the flour, then pour in by
degrees as much new milk as will reduce the batter to the con-
sistency of rather thin cream. The tin which is to receive the
pudding must have been placed for some time previously under
a joint that has been put down to roast: one of beef is usually
preferred. Beat the batter briskly and lightly the instant
before it is poured into the pan, watch it carefully that it may
not burn, and let the edges have an equal share of the fire.
When the pudding is quite firm in every part, and well-.
coloured on the surface, turn it to brown the under side. This
is best accomplished by first dividing it into quarters. In
Yorkshire it is made much thinner than in the south, roasted
generally at an enormous fire, and not turned at all: currants
there are sometimes added to it.

Eggs, 6; flour, 6 heaped tablespoonsful, or from 7 to 8 ozs. ;
milk, nearly or quite, 1 pint; salt, 1 teaspoonful: 2 hours.

406 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XVIIf.

-Obs.—This pudding should be quite an inch thick when it is
browned on both sides, but only half the depth when roasted
in the Yorkshire mode. The cook must exercise her discretion
a little in mixing the batter, as from the variation of weight in
flour, and in the size of eggs, a little more or less of milk may
be required: the whole should be rather more liquid than for a
boiled pudding.

COMMON YORKSHIRE PUDDING.

Half a pound of flour, three eggs (we would recommend
euounte); rather more than a pint of milk, and a teaspoonful
of salt.

NORMANDY PUDDING. (GOOD.)

Boil, until very soft and dry, eight ounces of rice in a pint
and a half, or rather more, of water,* stir to it two ounces of
fresh butter, and three of sugar, and simmer it for a few minutes
after they are added; then pour it out, and let it cool for use.
Strip from the stalks as many red currants, or Kentish cherries,
as will fill a tart-dish of moderate size, and for each pint of the
fruit allow from three to four ounces of sugar. Line the bottom
and sides of a deep dish with part of the rice; next, put in a
thick layer of fruit and sugar; then one of rice and one of fruit
alternately until the dish is full. Sufficient of the rice should
be reserved to form a rather thick layer at the top: smooth
this equally with a knife, and send the pudding to a moderate
but not very slow oven, for half an hour, and more, should it
be large. When two thirds baked, it may be glazed with yolk
of egg, brushed over, and fine sugar sifted on it. Morella
cherries, with a little additional sugar, make an excellent pud-
ding of this kind. j |

DAMSON-AND-RICE PUDDING.

With five ounces of whole rice boiled soft and dry, mix an
ounce of butter, ten ounces of damson-jam, a teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, and five eggs. Beat the whole well together, and
bake it about half an hour.

‘ Rice, 5 ozs.; damson-jam, 10 ozs.; butter, 1 0z.; eggs, 5:
4 hour.
BARBERRY-AND-RICE PUDDING
Mix ten ounces of barberries stripped from the stalks, with

* A quart of milk can be substituted for this; but with the fruit, water perhaps
aeuswers. better.

CHAP. XVIII. | BAKED PUDDINGS. 407

four ounces of whole boiled rice, eight ounces of sugar, a small
slice of butter, and five large, or six small eggs.

APPLE-AND-RICE PUDDING.

Boil together one pound of good pudding-apples, and six
ounces of sugar, until they are reduced to a smooth pulp; stir
them often to prevent their burning; mix with them four
ounces of boiled rice, two ounces of butter, and five large eggs.
Should the apples be very acid, increase the quantity of sugar :
add lemon rind or juice, at pleasure. These puddings are better
if mixed while the ingredients are still warm.

Apples, 1 lb.; sugar, 6 ozs.; boiled rice, 4 ozs.; butter, 2
ozs.; eggs, 5: 30 to 35 minutes.

COMMON RAISIN PUDDING.

Beat well together three quarters of a pound of flour, the
same quantity of raisins, six ounces of beef-suet, finely chopped,
a small pinch of salt, some grated nutmeg, and three eggs
which have been thoroughly whisked, and mixed with about
a quarter-pint of milk, or less than this, should the eggs be
large. Pour the whole into a buttered dish, and bake it an
hour and a quarter. Fora large pudding, increase the quan-
tities one half.

Flour and stoned raisins, each 2 Ib.; suet, 6 ozs.; salt,
small pinch; nutmeg, } teaspoonful; eggs, 3; milk, + pint: 1}
hour.

A RICHER RAISIN PUDDING.

Mix and whisk well, and lightly together, a pound of raisins
weighed after they are stoned, ten ounces of finely minced beef-
suet, three quarters of a pound of flour, a little salt, half a small
nutmeg, or the grated rind of a lemon, four large eggs, and as
_ much milk as may be needed to make the whole into a very
thick batter: bake the pudding a few minutes longer than the
preceding one. The addition of sugar will be found no im-
provement as it will render it much less light.

POOR AUTHOR'S PUDDING.

Flavour a quart of new milk by boiling in it for a few
minutes half a stick of well-bruised cinnamon, or the thin rind
of a small lemon; add a few grains of salt, and three ounces of
sugar, and turn the whole into a deep basin; when it is quite
cold, stir to it three well-beaten eggs, and strain the mixture

408 MODERN COOKERY. [omar. xvii

intoa pie-dish. Cover the top entirely with slices of bread free
from crust, and half an inch thick, cut so as to join neatly, and
buttered on both sides: bake the pudding in a moderate oven
for about half an hour, or in a Dutch oven before the fire.

New milk, 1 quart; cinnamon, or lemon-rind ; sugar, 3 ozs.;
little salt ; eggs, 3; buttered bread: baked } hour.

PUDDING A LA PAYSANNE.
(Cheap and good.)

Fill a deep tart-dish with alternate layers of well-sugared
fruit, and very thin slices of the crumb of a light stale loaf; let
the upper layer be of fruit, and should it be of a dry kind,
sprinkle over it about a dessertspoonful of water, or a little
lemon-juice : raspberries, currants, and cherries, will not require
this. Send the pudding to a somewhat brisk oven to be baked
for about half.an hour. The proportion of sugar used must be
regulated, of course, by the acidity of the fruit. For a quart of
ripe greengages, split and stoned, five ounces will be sufficient.
Apricots, peaches, and nectarines will scarcely require more;
but damsons, bullaces, and various other plums will need a much
larger quantity. A superior pudding of this kind is made hy
substituting sponge cake for the bread.

INDIAN PUDDING.

Put into a deep dish from six to eight ounces of rice which
has been washed, and wiped in a dry cloth; just moisten it
with milk, and set it into a gentle oven; add milk to it at
intervals, in small quantities, until the grain is swollen to its
full size, and is tender, but very dry; then mix with’ it two
dessertspoonsful of fine sugar, and if it should be at hand, four
or five tablespoonsful of rich cream. Fill a tart-dish almost to
the brim with fruit properly sugared, heap the rice equally over
it, leaving it rough, and bake it in a moderate oven for half an
hour, unless the fruit should be of a kind to require a longer
time; when very hard, it must be half stewed with the sugar
before it is put into the dish. The rice may be swelled over a
very slow fire when more convenient ; and the Dutch or Ameri-
can oven will serve quite well to bake the pudding.

BAKED HASTY PUDDING.

Take from a pint of new milk sufficient to mix into a thin
batter two ounces of flour, put the remainder, with a small pinch
of salt, into a clean saucepan, and when it boils quickly, stir the
flour briskly to it; keep it stirred over a gentle fire for ten

CHAP. XIX. | SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &c. 4.09

minutes, pour it out, and when it has become a little cool, mix
with it two ounces of fresh butter, three of pounded sugar, the
grated rind of a small lemon, four large, or five small eggs, and
half a glass of brandy, or as much orange-flower water. To
these half a dozen bitter almonds, pounded to a paste, are some-
times added. Bake the pudding half an hour in a gentle oven.

New milk, 1 pint; flour, 2 ozs.: 10 minutes. Butter, 2 ozs. ;
sugar, 3 ozs.; eggs, 4 or 5; grated rind of lemon; brandy, or
orange-flower water, 4 wineglassful.

CHAPTER XIX.

SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &.

Silver Soufflé-pan and dish.

OBSERVATIONS ON OMLETS, FRITTERS, &e.

Tue composition and nature of a soufflé are altogether different,
but there is no difficulty in making good omlets, pancakes, or
fritters, and as they may be expeditiously prepared and served,
they are often a very convenient resource when, on short notice, —
an addition is required to a dinner. The eggs for all of them

410 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIx.

should be well and lightly whisked ; the lard for frying batter
should be extremely pure in flavour, and quite hot when the
fritters are dropped in; the batter itself should be smooth as
cream, and it should be briskly beaten the instant before it is
used. All fried pastes should be perfectly drained from the fat
before they are served, and sent to table promptly when they
are ready. Eggs may be dressed in a multiplicity of ways, but
are seldom, in any form, more relished than in a well-made and
expeditiously served omlet. This may be plain, or seasoned
with minced herbs, and a very little eschalot, when the last is
liked, and is then called an ‘‘ Omletie aux fines herbes ;” or it
may be mixed with minced ham, or grated cheese ; in any case,
it should be light, thick, full-tasted, and frzed only on one side ;
if turned in the pan, as it frequently is in England, it will at
once be flattened and rendered tough. Should the slight raw-
ness which is sometimes found in the middle of the inside, when
the omlet is made in the French way, be objected to, a heated. -
shovel, or a salamander, may be held over it for an instant,
before it is folded on the dish. The pan for frying it should be
quite small ; for if it be composed of four or five eggs only, and
then put into a large one, it will necessarily spread over it and
be thin, which would render it more like a pancake than an
omlet; the only partial remedy for this, when a pan of pro-
per size cannot be had, is to raise the handle of it high, and to
keep the opposite side close down to the fire, which will confine
the eggs into a smaller space. No gravy should ever be poured
into the dish with it, and indeed, if properly made, it will require
none. Lard is preferable to butter for frying batter, as it ren-
ders it lighter ; but it must not be used for omlets.

A COMMON OMLET.

From four to eight very fresh eggs may be used for this,
according to the sized dish required. Half a dozen will gene-
rally be sufficient. Break them singly and carefully; clear
them in the way we have already pointed out in the introduc-
tion to boiled puddings, or when they are sufficiently whisked
pour them through a sieve, and resume the beating until they
are very light. Add to them from half to a whole teaspoonful
of salt, and a seasoning of pepper. Dissolve in a small frying-
pan a couple of ounces of butter, pour in the eggs, and as soon
as the omlet is well risen and firm throughout, slide it on to a
hot dish, fold it together like a turnover, and serve it zmme-
diately ; from five to seven minutes will fry it.

CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLfs, OMLETS, &c. 411

For other varieties of the omlet, see the observations which
precede this. :

# . AN OMLETTE SOUFFLEE.

Separate, as they are broken, the whites from the yolks of six
fine fresh eggs; beat these last thoroughly, first by themselves
_ and then with four tablespoonsful of dry, white sifted sugar, and
the rind of half a lemon grated on a fine grater.* Whisk the
whites to a solid froth, and just before the omlet is poured into
the pan, mix them well, but lightly, with the yolks. Put four
ounces of fresh butter into a very small delicately clean
omlet, or frying pan, and as soon as it is all dissolved, add
the eggs and stir them round, that they may absorb it entirely.
When the under side is just set, turn the omlet into a well-but-
tered dish, and send it to'a tolerably brisk oven. From five to
ten minutes will bake it; and it must be served the instant it
is taken out ; carried, indeed, as quickly as possible to table from
the oven. It will have risen to a great height, but will sink
and become heavy in a very short space of time: if sugar be
sifted over it, let it be done with the utmost expedition.

Eggs, 6; sugar, 4 tablespoonsful; rind, 4 lemon; butter,
4 ozs.: omlet baked, 5 to 10 minutes.

Obs.—A large common frying-pan will not answer for omlets:
a very small one should be kept for them, when there is no re-
gular omlet-pan.

SOUFFLES.

The admirable lightness and delicacy of a well-made soufflé
render it generally a very favourite dish, and it is now a fashion-
able one also. It may be greatly varied in its composition, but
in all cases must be served the very instant it is taken from the
oven; and even in passing to the dining-room it should, if pos-
sible, be prevented from sinking by a heated iron or salamander
held above it. A common souffié-pan may be purchased for
four or five shillings, but those of silver or plated metal which
are of the form shown at the commencement of this chapter, are
of course expensive; the part in which the soufflé is baked is
placed within the more ornamental dish when it is drawn from
the oven. A plain, round, shallow cake-mould, with a strip of
writing paper six inches high, placed inside the rim will answer
on an emergency to bake a soufflé in. The following receipt
will serve as a guide for the proper mode of making it: the

* As we have before said, a much more delicate flayour is imparted by rasping
the lemon-rind on sugar.

412 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. xIx.

process is always the same whether the principal ingredient be
whole rice boiled very tender in milk and pressed through a.
sieve, bread-crumbs soaked as for a pudding and worked through
a sieve also, arrow-root, potato-flour, or ought else of which
light puddings in general are made.

Take from a pint and a half of new milk or of cream sufficient
to mix four ounces of flour of rice to a perfectly smooth batter ;
put the remainder into a very clean, well-tinned saucepan, and
when it boils, stir the rice briskly to it ; let it simmer, keeping it
stirred all the time, for ten minutes, or more should it not be
very thick, then mix well with it two ounces of fresh butter, one
and a half of pounded sugar, and the grated rind of a fine lemon
(or let the sugar which is used for it be well rubbed on the lemon
before it is crushed to powder) ; in two or three minutes take it
from the fire, and beat quickly and carefully to it by degrees
the yolks of six eggs; whisk the whites to a very firm solid
froth, and when the pan is buttered, and all else quite ready for
the oven, stir them gently to the other ingredients; pour the
souffié immediately into the pan and place it in a moderate oven, ’
of which keep the door closed for a quarter of an hour at least.
When the soufflé has risen very high, is of a fine colour, and
quite done in the centre, which it will be in from half to three
De ate of an hour, send it instantly to table. The exact time

or baking it depends.so much on the oven that it cannot be
precisely specified. We have known quite a small one not too
much baked in forty-five minutes in an tron oven; but gene-
rally less time will suffice for them: the heat, however, should
always be moderate.

New milk or cream, 1} pint; flour of rice, 4 ozs.; fresh
butter, 2 ozs.; pounded sugar, 14 0z.; eggs, 6; grain of salt;
rind, 1lemon: 80 to 45 minutes. : |

Qos. 1.—The soufflé may be flavoured with vanilla, orange-

flowers, or ought else that is liked.. Chocolate and coffee also
may be used for it with soaked bread: a very strong infusion
of the last, and an ounce or two of the other, melted with a
little water, are to be added to the milk and bread.
_ Obs. 2.—A soufflé is commonly served in a dinner of cere-
mony as a remove of the roast, but the better plan for this, as
for a fondu, is to have it: quickly handed round, instead of
being placed upon, the table.

LOUISE FRANK’S CITRON SOUFFLE.

To obtain the flavour of the citron-rind for this celebrated
Swedish soufilé, take a lump of sugar which weighs two ounces

CHAP. XIX. | SOUFFLEs, oMLETS, &c 413

and a half, and rub it on the fruit to extract the essence, or
should the citron not be sufficiently fresh to yield it by this
means, pare it off in the thinnest possible strips and infuse it,
by the side of the fire, in the cream of which the soufflé is to
be made. Should the first method be pursued, crush the sugar
to powder, and dry it a little before it is added to the other
ingredients. Blend very smoothly two ounces of potato-flour
w:th a quarter of a pint of milk, and pour boiling to them a
pint of good cream; stir the mixture in a large basin or bowl
until it thickens, then throw in a grain of salt, two ounces of
fresh butter just dissolved in a small saucepan, and the sugar
which has been rubbed on the citron; or should the rind have
been pared the same weight, some of which is merely pounded.
Add next, by degrees, the thoroughly whisked yolks of six
fresh eggs, or of seven, should they be very small. Beat the
whites lightly and quickly, until they are sufficiently firm to
remain standing in points when dropped from the whisk ; mix
them with the other ingredients, at the mouth of the oven, but
without beating them; fill the souffié-pan less than half full;
set it instantly mto the oven, which should be gentle, but not
exceedingly slack, close the door immediately, and do not open
it for fifteen or twenty minutes: in from thirty to forty the
soufflé will be ready for table unless the oven should be very
slow: a fierce degree of heat will have a most unfavourable
effect upon it.

Rind of half citron (that of a Seville orange may be sub-
stituted on occasions) ; sugar, 24 0zs.; cream, 1 pint; potato-
flour, 2 ozs.; milk, 4 pint; butter, 2 ozs.; yolks and whites of
6 large or of 7 small eggs: 30 to 40 minutes, or more in very
slow oven. im

A FONDU.

Mix to a smooth batter, with a quarter of a pint of new
milk, two ounces of potato-flour, arrow-root, or tows les mots ;
pour boiling to them three quarters of a pint more of milk,
or of cream in preference, stir them well together, and then
throw in two ounces of butter cut small. When this is
melted, and well-beaten into the mixture, add the well-whisked
yolks of four large or of five small eggs, half a teaspoonful
of salt, something less of cayenne, and three ounces of lightly-
grated cheese, Parmesan or English, or equal parts of both.
Whisk the whites of the eggs to a quite firm and solid froth;
then proceed, as for a soutilé, to mix and bake the fondu.

20 minutes.

414 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XIX.

- KENTISH FRITTERS. :

Beat up the whites of three eggs and the yolks of six with
half a pound of flour, a cupful of milk, and a large teaspoonful
of yeast; put the mixture mto a jug, cover it, and set it by the
fire until the next day, then add to the batter two large apples
finely chopped, and fry the fritters as usual.

_ Whites of eggs, 3; yolks,6; flour, 8 ozs.; milk, 1 cupful;

yeast, 1 teaspoonful : 24 hours. .

PLAIN COMMON FRITTERS.

Mix with three well-beaten eggs a quarter-pint of milk, and
strain them through a fine sieve; add them gradually to three
large tablespoonsful of flour, and thin the batter with as much
more milk as will bring it to the consistency of cream; beat it
up thoroughly at the moment of using it, that the fritters may
be light. Drop it in small portions from a spouted jug or
basin into boiling lard; when lightly coloured on one side,
turn them, drain them well from the lard as they are lifted
out, and serve them very quickly. They are eaten generally
with fine sugar, and orange or lemon juice: the first of these
may be sifted thickly over them after they are dished, the
oranges or lemons cut in two, and sent to table with them.
The lard used for frying them should be fresh and pure-
flavoured: it renders them more crisp and light than butter,
and is, therefore, better suited to the purpose.

Eggs, 3; flour, 3 tablespoonsful ; milk, 3 to 4 pint.

PANCAKES.

These may be made with the same batter as fritters, if it be
sufficiently thinned with an additional egg or two, or a little
milk or cream, to spread quickly over the pan: to fry them
well, this ought to be small. When the batter is ready, heat
the pan over a clear fire and rub it with butter in every part,
then pour in sufficient batter to spread over it entirely, and let
the pancake be very thin: in this case it will require no
turning, but otherwise it must be tossed over with a sudden
jerk of the pan, in which the cook who is not somewhat expert
will not always succeed; therefore the safer plan is to make
them so thin that they will not require this. Keep them hot
before the fire until a sufficient number are ready to send to
table, then proceed with a second supply, as they should always
be quickly served. Either roll them up and strew fine sugar

CHAP. XIX. ] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &c. 415

over them, or spread them quickly with preserve, laying them
one on the other. A richer kind of pancake may be made
with a pint of cream, or of cream and new milk mixed, five
eggs, or their yolks only, a couple of ounces of flour, a little
pounded cinnamon or lemon-rind rasped on sugar and scraped
into them, with two ounces more of pounded sugar, and two
ounces of clarified butter: a few ratifias rolled to powder may
be added at pleasure, or three or four macaroons.
From 4 to 5 minutes.

FRITTERS OF CAKE AND PUDDING.

Cut plain pound, or rice cake into small square slices half an
inch thick; trim away the crust, fry them slowly a light
brown, in a small quantity of fresh butter, and spread over
them when done a layer of apricot-jam, or of any other pre-
serve, and serve them immediately. These fritters are im-
proved by being moistened with a little good cream before they
are fried: they must then be slightly floured. Cold plum
pudding sliced down as thick as the cake, and divided into por-
tions of equal size and good form, then dipped into French or
English batter, and gently fried, will also make an agreeable
variety of fritter.

MINCEMEAT FRITTERS.

With half a pound of mincemeat mix two ounces of fine
bread-crumbs (or a tablespoonful of flour), two eggs well
beaten, and the strained juice of halfa small lemon. Mix these
well, and drop the fritters with a dessertspoon into plenty of
very pure lard of fresh butter; fry them from seven to eight
minutes, drain them on a napkin or on white blotting paper,
and send them very hot to table: they should be quite small.

Mincemeat, } lb.; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. (or flour, 1 table-
spoonful) ; eggs, 2; juice of } lemon: 7 to 8 minutes.

VENETIAN FRITTERS.

(Very good.)

Pick, wash, and drain three ounces of whole rice, put it into
a full pint of cold milk, and bring it very slowly to boil; stir it
often, and let it simmer gently until quite thick and dry. When
~ about three parts done add to it two ounces of pounded sugar,
and one of fresh butter, a grain of salt, and the grated rind of
halfa small lemon. Let it be cold in the saucepan, and when
only just warm mix with it thoroughly three ounces of cur-

416 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. XIX.

rants, four of apples, chopped fine, a teaspoonful of flour, and
three large or four small well-béaten eggs. Drop the mixture
in small fritters, fry them in butter from five to seven minutes,
and let them become quite firm on one side before they are
turned: do this witha slice. Drain them as they are taken up,
and sift white sugar over them after they are dished.

Whole rice, 3 ozs.; milk, 1 pint; sugar, 2 ozs.; butter, 1 oz. ;
grated rind of 1 lemon; currants, 3 ozs.; minced apples, 4 ozs. ;
flour, 1 teaspoonful ; a little salt; eggs, 3 large, or 4 small: 5
to 7 minutes.

FRITTERS OF SPRING FRUIT.

The rhubarb for these should be of a good sort, quickly ©
grown, and tender. Pare, cut it into equal lengths, and throw
it into the French batter of page 129; with a fork lift the
_ Stalks separately, and put them into a pan of boiling lard or
butter: in from five to six minutes they will be done. Drain
them well and dish them on a napkin, or pile them high with-
out one, and strew sifted sugar plentifully over them: they
should be of a very light brown, and quite dry and crisp. The
young stalks look well when left in their entire length, and
only slightly encrusted with the batter, through which they
should be merely drawn.

5 to 6 minutes.

APPLE, PEACH, APRICOT, OR ORANGE FRITTERS.

Pare and core without dividing the apples, slice them in
rounds the full size of the fruit, dip them into the same batter
as that directed for the preceding fritters; fry them a pale
brown, and let them be very dry. Serve them heaped high
upon a folded napkin, and strew sifted sugar over them.
Aitter having stripped the outer rind from the oranges, remove
carefully the white inner skin, and in slicing them take out the
pips; then dip them into the batter and proceed as for the
apple fritters. The peaches and apricots should be merely
skinned, halved, and stoned before they are drawn through
the batter, unless they should not be fully ripe, when they
must first be stewed tender in a thin syrup.

8 to 12 minutes. ?

BRIOCHE FRITTERS.

The brioche-paste,* when good, makes very superior canne- .

lons and fritters: it is, we should say, better in this form than
* For this see page 339,

CHAP. XIx. | SOUFFLEs, OMLETS, &c, 417:

in that of the bun or cake, in which it is seen so commonly
abroad. Make it, for the fritters, into very small balls; roll:
them quite thin, put a teaspoonful or less of rich preserve into
each, moisten the edges and fold the paste together securely,
or with a small tin shape cut as many rounds of the brioche as
are wanted, place some preserve in the centre of one half of
these, moisten the edges, lay the remainder lightly over them, |
press them carefully together and restore them to a good form
with the tin cutter, by trimming them with it to their original
size; slip them gently into a pan of boiling lard, and fry them
from four and a half to five minutes.. Serve them very hot,
crisp, and dry, piled on a folded napkin. The cannelons are
made like those of paste, and are extremely good. They are
sometimes filled with lemon-cheesecake mixture (see appendix),
or with Madame Werner's (page 361): with the first of these they
are even better than with preserve.
Fritters, 44 to 5 minutes; cannelons, 5 to 6 minutes.

POTATO FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.)

See directions for potato puddings. The same mixture
dropped in fritters into boiling butter, and fried until firm on
both sides will be found very good. e°

LEMON FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.)

Mix with six ounces of very fine bread-crumbs four of beef
suet, minced as small as possible, four ounces of pounded sugar,
a small tablespoonful of flour, four whole eggs, well and lightly
whisked, and the gratcd rind of one large or of two small
lemons, with half or the whole of the juice, at choice; but
before this last is stirred in, add a spoonful or two of milk or
cream if needed. Fry the mixture in small fritters for five or
six minutes.

CANNELONS. (ENTREMETS.)

Roll out very thin
and evenly, some fine
puff-paste into a long
strip of from three to
four inches’ wide,
moisten the surface
with a feather dipped
in white of egg, and
cut it into bands of
nearly two inches

_
i) —————\ =

418 - MODERN COOKERY. (cap. x1x.

wide ; lay some apricot or peach marmalade equally along these,
and fold the paste twice over it, close the ends carefully, and
when all are ready slide them gently into a pan of boiling lard ;*
as soon as they begin to brown, raise the pan from the fire that
they may not take too much colour before the paste is done
quite through. Five minutes will fry them. Drain them well,
and dry them on a soft cloth before the fire; dish them ona
napkin, and place one layer crossing another, or merely pile
them high in the centre. If well made, and served of a light
brown and very dry, these cannelons are excellent: when lard
is objected to butter may be used instead, but the paste will |
then be somewhat less light. Only lard of the purest quality:
will answer for the purpose.
5 minutes.

CANNELONS OF BRIOCHE PASTE. (ENTREMETS.)

Proceed exactly as for the cannelons above, substituting the
brioche for the puff-paste, and rolling it as thin as possible, as
it swells very much in the pan. It is a good plan to pass a
notched paste-runner, should there be one at hand, lightly upon
the edge of the second folding of the crust, which should
reach about to the centre of the cannelon: precaution should
always be taken to close the paste so as to prevent the escape of
the preserve. Fine sugar may be sifted over these after they
are dried and dished.

4 to 5 minutes.

CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.)

Croquettes.

Wipe very clean, in a dry cloth, seven ounces of rice, put it

_* Cannelons may be either baked or fried: if sent to the oven, they may first
be glazed with white of egg and sugar. sup:

CHAP. XIX. | SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &c. 419

into a clean stewpan, and pour on it a quart of new milk; let it
swell gently by the side of the fire, and stir it often that it may
not stick to the ffan, nor burn; when it is about half done, stir
to it five ounces of pounded sugar, and six bitter almonds
beaten extremely fine: the thin rind of half a fresh lemon may
be added in the first instance. The rice must be simmered
until it is soft, and very thick and dry; it should then be spread
on a dish, and left until cold, when it is to be rolled into small
balls, which must be dipped into beaten egg, and then covered
in every part with the finest bread-crumbs. When all are
ready, fry them a light brown in fresh butter, and dry them
well before the fire, upon a sieve reversed and covered with a
very soft cloth, or with a sheet of white blotting paper. Pile
them in a hot dish, and send them to table quickly.

Rice, 7 ozs.; milk, 1 quart; rind of lemon: 3 hour. Sugar,
5 ozs.; bitter almonds, 6: 40 to 60 minutes, or more. Fried, 5
to 7 minutes.

FINER CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.)

Swell the rice in thin cream, or in new milk strongly flavoured
with cocoa-nut (see page 429), add the same ingredients as in the
foregoing receipt, and when the rice is cold, form it into balls,
and with the thumb of the right hand hollow them sufficiently
to admit in the centre a small portion of peach jam, or of apricot
marmalade ; close the rice well over it; egg, crumb, and fry the
croquettes as usual. As, from the difference of quality, the
same proportions of rice and milk will not always produce the
same effect, the cook must use her discretion in adding, should
it be needed, sufficient liquid to soften the rice perfectly: but
she must bear in mind that if not boiled extremely thick and
dry, it will be difficult to make it into croquettes.

SAVOURY CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREE.)

These are made with the same preparation as the casserole of
rice of Chapter XVI., but it must be boiled very dry, and left to
become quite cold before it is used. A few spoonsful of rich
white sauce stirred into it when it is nearly tender, will improve
it much. Form and hollow the croquettes as directed in the last
. receipt ; fill them with a small portion of minced fowl, partridge,
or pheasant, in athick sauce, or with a stewed oyster, or two cut
in quarters; close the rice perfectly over them; egg, and crumb
the croquettes, fry and serve them garnished with crisped parsley.
French cooks mix sometimes a little grated Parmesan cheese
‘with the rice at the moment it is taken from the fire, and roll

420. MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIX;

the croquettes in more after they are egged ; they press this on:
and dip them again in egg, and then into the crumbs. Raise.
the pan high above the fire when the croquettes are lightly
browned, that they may heat through; then heighten the colour,
and lift them out immediately.

RISSOLES. .(ENTREE.)

This is the French name for smell fried pastry of various
forms, filled with meat or fish previously cooked; they may be
made with brioche, or with light puff-paste, either of which
must be rolled extremely thin. Cut it with a small round cutter
fluted or plain; put a little rich mince, or good pounded meat,
‘in the centre, and moisten the edges, and press them securely
together that they may not burst open in the frying. ‘The
rissoles may be formed like small patties, by laying a second —
round of paste over the meat; or, like cannelons; they may,
likewise, be brushed with egg, and sprinkled with vermicelli,
broken small, or with fine crumbs. ‘They are sometimes made
in the form of croquettes, the paste being gathered round the
meat, which must form a ball. .

In frying them, adopt the same plan as for the croquettes,
raising the pan as soon as the paste is lightly coloured. Serve
all these fried dishes well drained, and on a napkin.

From 5 to 7 minutes, or less.

VERY SAVOURY RISSOLES. (ENTREE.)

Make the forcemeat No. 1, page 143, sufficiently firm with
unbeaten yolk of egg, to roll rather thin on a well-floured board;
cut it into very small rounds, put a little pounded chicken in the
centre of one half, moistening the edges with water, or white of
egg, lay the remaining rounds over these, close them securely,
and fry them in butter a fine light brown; drain and dry them
well, and heap them in the middle of a hot dish, upon a napkin
folded flat: these rissoles may be egged and crumbed before they

are fried.

RISSOLES OF FISH. (ENTREE.)

Take perfectly clear from bones and skin, the flesh of any
cold fish that can be pounded to an exceedingly fine paste; add
to it, when in the mortar, from one quarter to a third as much
of good butter, and a high seasoning of cayenne, with a moderate

one of mace and nutmeg. ‘To these may be added, at pleasure, —
a few shrimps, or a little of any of the finer fish sauces, or some ~
lobster-coral. When the whole is well beaten and blended to-

CHAP. XIX. ] SOUFFLEs, OMLETS, &c. 421

gether, roll out some good puff-paste extremely thin, and witha
small round tin shape, cut out the number of rissoles required;
put some of the fish into each of these, moisten the edges with
white of egg, fold and press them securely together, and when
all are ready, slip them gently into a pan of boiling lard or but-
ter; fry them a pale brown, drain them well, and dry them on
white blotting-paper, laid upon a sieve, reversed; but do not
place them sufficiently near to scorch or to colour them.

TO BOIL PIPE MACCARONI.

We have found always the continental mode of dressing
maccaroni the best. English cooks sometimes soak it in milk
and water for an hour or more, before it is boiled, that the pipes
may be swollen to the utmost, but this is apt to render it pulpy,
though its appearance may be improved by it. Drop it lightly,
and by degrees, into a large pan of fast-boiling water, into which
a little salt, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut, have pre-
viously been thrown, and of which the boiling should not be
stopped by the addition of the maccaroni. In from three quar-
ters of an hour to an hour this will be sufficiently tender; it
should always be perfectly so, as it is otherwise indigestible,
though the pipes should remain entire. Pour it into a large
cullender, and drain the water well from it. It should be very
‘softly boiled after the first minute or two.

8 to 1 hour.

RIBBAND MACCARONI.

This is dressed in precisely the same manner as the pipe
maccaroni, but requires only from fourteen to sixteen minutes’
boiling in water, and twenty or more in broth or stock.

DRESSED MACCARONI.

_ Four ounces of pipe maccaroni is sufficient for a small dish,
but from six to eight should be prepared for a family party
where it is liked. ‘The common English mode of dressing it 1s
with grated cheese, butter, and cream, or milk. French cooks
substitute generally a spoonful or two of very strong rich jellied
gravy for the cream; and the Italians, amongst their many
other modes of serving it, toss it in rich brown gravy, with
sufficient grated cheese to flavour the whole strongly ; they send
it to table also simply laid into a good Hspagnole or brown
gravy (that drawn from the stufato, for example), accompanied
by a plate of grated cheese. Another, and an easy mode of
~dressing it is to boil and drain it well, and to put it into a deep

422 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIX.

dish, strewing grated cheese on every layer, and adding bits of
fresh butter to it. The top, in this case, should be covered
with a layer of fine bread-crumbs, mixed with grated cheese;
these should be moistened plentifully with clarified butter, and
colour given to them in the oven, or before the fire ; the crumbs
may be omitted, and a layer of cheese substituted for them. An
excellent preparation of maccaroni may be made with any well-
flavoured, dry white cheese, which can be grated easily, at much
less cost than with the Parmesan, which is expensive, and in the
country not always procurable even; we think that the rich
brown gravy is also a great advantage to the dish, which is
further improved by a tolerably high seasoning of cayenne. —
These, however, are innovations on the usual modes of serving,
it in England.

After it has been boiled quite tender, drain it well, dissolve
from two to three ounces of good butter in a clean stewpan, with _
a few spoonsful of rich cream, or of white sauce, lay in part of
the maccaroni, strew part of the cheese upon it, add the re-
mainder of the maccaroni and the cheese, and toss the whole
gently until the ingredients are well incorporated, and adhere to
the maccaroni, leaving no liquid perceptible: serve it immediately.

Maccaroni, 6 ozs.; butter, 3 ozs.; Parmesan cheese, 6 02s. ;
cream, 4 tablespoonsful.

Obs.—If preferred so, cheese may be strewed thickly over
the maccaroni after it is dished, and just melted and browned
with a salamander.

MACCARONI A LA REINE.

This is a very excellent and delicate mode of dressing macca-
roni. Boil eight ounces in the usual way (see page 421), and
by the time it is’ sufficiently tender, dissolve gently ten ounces
of any rich, well-flavoured white cheese in full three quarters of
a pint of good cream; add a little salt, a rather full seasoning of

cayenne, from half to a whole saltspoonful of pounded mace,
- anda couple of ounces of sweet fresh butter. The cheese should,
in the first instance, be sliced very thin, and taken quite free of
the hard part adjoining the rind; it should be stirred in the
cream without intermission until it is entirely dissolved, and the
whole is perfectly smooth: the maccaroni, previously well-
drained, may then be tossed gently in it, or after it is dished,
the cheese may be poured equally over the maccaroni. The
whole, in either case, may be thickly covered before it is sent to
table, with fine crumbs of bread fried of a pale gold colour, and
dried perfectly, either before the fire or in an oven, when such

CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLIs, OMLETS, &c. 423

an addition is considered an improvement. Asa matter of pre-
caution, it is better to boil the cream before the cheese is melted
in it; rich white sauce, or béchamel, made not very thick, with
an additional ounce or two of butter, may be used to vary and
enrich this preparation. If Parmesan cheese* be used for it, it
must of course be grated. Half the quantity may be served.
Maccaroni, § lb.; cheese, 10 ozs.; good cream, # pint (or rich
white sauce) ; butter, 2 ozs. (or more); little salt, fine cayenne,
and mace. |

POLENTA, AN ITALIAN DISH. (GOOD.)

Throw into a quart of milk, when it is fast boil-
ing, half a teaspoonful of salt, and then shake
lightly into it five ounces of the best semoulina ;
stir the milk as this is added, and continue to do so
from eight to ten minutes, letting the mixture boil
gently during the time. It should be very thick,
and great care must be taken to prevent its sticking
to the saucepan, which should be placed over a
clear fire on a bar or trevet, but not upon the coals.
Pour the semoulina, when it is done, into a basin,
which it will not fill by an inch or two, and let it
remain some hours in a cool place, that it may be-
come perfectly cold; it will then turn out quite
solid, and like a pudding in appearance. Cut it
with a large, sharp carving-knife, or a bit of thin
wire, into half-inch slices; wash the basin into
which it was poured at first, and butter it well;
grate from six to eight ounces of good cheese (Parmesan, or any
other), and mix with it a half-teaspoonful of cayenne, and
twice as much pounded mace ; clarify from two to three ounces
of fresh butter, and put a small quantity into the basin, strew in
a little of the cheese, and then lay in the first slice of the semor-
lina, on this put a thick layer of the cheese, moisten it with
some drops of butter, and place the second slice upon it; then
more cheese and butter, and continue thus until all the semou-
lina is replaced in the basin ; put plenty of cheese upon the top,
add the remainder of the clarified butter, and bake the mixture |
for about half an hour in a gentle oven. It should be of a fine
golden colour when served. Turn it carefully into a dish, and
send it instantly to table. A little rich brown gravy: poured’
round might, to some tastes, improve it, but it is excellent

_ © The Parmesan being apt to gather into lumps, instead of mingling smoothly
with the liquid, had better be avo-ded for this dish, ne

424 MODERN: COOKERY. [[cmap. xix.

without, and may be substituted for maccaroni, which it much
resembles in flavour. In Italy, the flour of Indian corn (maize),
which is there called polenta, is used for it*, but the semoulina,
when good, answers the purpose perfectly. The dish may be
enriched by adding butter to the milk, or by mixing with it a
portion of cream; and it may be browned in a Dutch oven,
when no other is in use.

New milk (or milk mixed with cream), 1 quart ; ; salt, large 3
teaspoonful ; Se 5 ozs.: 10 minutes, Grated cheese, 6
to 8 02S. ; cayenne, .} | teaspoonful ; mace, 1 small teaspoonful ;
‘butter, 2 to 3 ozs. : baked 4 1 hour, ‘gentle oven.

Obs.—A plain mould can be used instead of the basin.

FORCED EGGS FOR SALAD.

Pound and press through the back of a hair-sieve, the flesh
of three very fine, or of four moderate-sized anchovies, freed
from the bones and skin. Boil six fresh eggs for twelve
minutes, and when they are perfectly cold, halve them length-
wise, take out the yolks, pound them to a paste with a third
of their volume of fresh butter, then add the anchovies, a
quarter-teaspoonful of mace, and as much cayenne as will
season the mixture well; beat these together thoroughly, and
fill the whites of egg neatly with them. A morsel of garlic,
not larger than a pea, perfectly blended with the other ingre-
dients, would to some tastes greatly improve this preparation: a
portion of anchovy-butter (see page 127), or of potted ham,
will supply the place of the fish in it very advantageously.

Eggs, 6; anchovies, 4; butter, size of 2 oes ; mace, }
teaspoonful; Fone third as much.

FORCED EGGS, OR EGGS EN SURPRISE. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil, and divide, as in the receipt above, half a dozen very
fresh eggs; pound the yolks perfectly, first by themselves, then
with three ounces of good butter, a seasoning of salt, cayenne,
and nutmeg, or mace, a large teaspoonful or more of minced
parsley, and the yolks of two raw eggs. Slice a small bit off
the whites to make them stand flat, hollow the insides well,
fill them smoothly with the yolks, form a small dome in the
centre of the dish with the remainder of the mixture, and lean

“ This may be purchased in London at the Italian warehouses, and will be
found of excellent effect’ for biscuits and baked puddings, as well as for this
preparation. :

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS: 425

the eggs against it, placing them regularly round. Set them
into a gentle oven for ten minutes,* and send them quickly to
table. .

CHAPTER XX.

SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.

/\ ; ;
iH Mice im

White and Rose-coloured Jelly

,
TO PREPARE CALF’S FEET STOCK.T

Tue feet are usually sent in from the butcher’s ready to dress,
but as a matter of economyt{ or of convenience it is sometimes
desirable to have them altogether prepared by the cook. Dip
them into cold water, lay them into a deep pan, and sprinkle
equally over them on both sides some rosin in fine powder;
pour in as much boiling water as will cover them well, and let.
them remain fcr a minute or two untouched ; then scrape the.
hair clean from them with the edge of a knife. When this is
done, wash them very thoroughly both in hot and in cold
wa‘er ; divide them at the joint, split the claws, and take away
the fat that is between them. Should the feet be large, put a
gallon of cold water to the four, but from a pint to a quart less

* Half of one of the raw egg-yolks may be omitted, and a spoonful of rich
cream used instead; the eggs can also be steamed until the insides are firm,
by placing them with a little good gravy, or white sauce, in a stewpan, and sime
rnering them gently from fifteen to twenty minutes.

+ For fuller and better directions for this, see page 197, Chapter IX.

- t The are sc'4 at a much lower price when not cleared from, the hai-.

426. MODERN COOKERY. —

if they be of moderate size or small. Boil them gently down.
until the flesh has parted entirely from the bones,.and the
liquor is reduced nearly or quite half; strain, and let it stand.
until cold; remove every particle of fat from the top before it
is used, and be careful not to take the sediment.

Calf’s feet, (large) 4; water, 1 gallon: 6 to 7 hours.

TO CLARIFY CALF’S FEET STOCK.

Break up a quart of the stock, put it into a clean stewpan
with the whites of five large or of six small eggs, two ounces of
sugar, and the strained juice of a small lemon; place it over a
gentle fire, and do not stir it after the scum begins to form; .
when it has boiled five or six minutes, if the liquid part be
clear, turn it into.a jelly-bag, and pass it through a second time
should it not be perfectly transparent the first. To consumptive
patients, and others requiring restoratives, but forbidden to take
stimulants, the jelly thus prepared is often very acceptable, and
may be taken with impunity, when it would be highly injurious
made with wine. More white of.egg is required to clarify it
than when sugar and acid are used in larger quantities, as both
of these assist the process. For blamange omit the lemon-juice,
and mix with the clarified stock an equal proportion of cream
(for an invalid new milk), with the usual flavouring, and weight
of sugar; or pour the boiling stock very gradually to some
finely pounded almonds, and express it from them as directed
for Quince Blamange, allowing from six to eight ounces to the

int.
: Stock, 1 quart; whites of eggs, 5; sugar, 2 ozs.; juice, 1
small lemon: 5 to 8 minutes.

TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS.

The finely-cut purified isinglass, which is now in general use,
requires no clarifying except for clear jellies: for all other dishes
it 1s sufficient to dissolve, skim, and pass it through a muslin
strainer. When two ounces are required for a dish, put two
and a half into a delicately clean pan, and pour on it ‘a pint of
spring water which ‘has been gradually mixed with.a teaspoonful
of beaten white of egg; stir these thoroughly together, and let
them heat slowly by the side of a gentle fire, but do not allow.
the isinglass to stick to the pan. When the scum is well risen,
which it will be after two or three minutes’ simmering, clear it
off, and continue the skimming until no more appears, then,
should the quantity of liquid be more than is needed, reduce it
by quick boiling to the proper point, strain it through a thin

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 427

muslin, and set it by for use: it will be perfectly transparent,
and may be mixed lukewarm with the clear and ready sweetened.
juicetof various fruits, or used with the necessary proportion of
syrup, for jellies flavoured with choice liqueurs. As the clarify
ing reduces the strength of the isinglass,—or rather as a portion
of it is taken up by the white of egg,—an additional quarter to
each ounce must be allowed for this: if the scum be laid to drain
on the back of a fine sieve which has been wetted with hot water,
a little very strong jelly will drip from it.

Isinglass, 2} ozs.; water, 1 pint; beaten white of egg, 1 tea-
spoonful.

SPINACH GREEN, FOR COLOURING SWEET DISHES, CONFEC=
TIONARY, OR SOUPS.

' Pound quite to a pulp, in a marble or Wedgewood mortar, a
handful or two of young freshly-gathered spinach, then throw
it into a hair-sieve, and press through all the juice that can be
obtained from it; pour this into a ciean white jar, and place it
in a pan of water that is at the point of boiling, and which must
be allowed only to just simmer afterwards ; in three or four mi-
nutes. the juice will be poached or set ; take it then gently with
a spoon, and lay it upon the back of a fine sieve to drain. If
wanted for immediate use, merely mix it in the mortar with some
finely-powdered sugar ;* but if to be kept as a store, pound it
with as much as will render the whole tolerably dry, boil it to .
candy-height over a very clear fire, pour it out in cakes,-and.
keep them in a tin box or-canister. For this last preparation
consult the receipt for orange-flower candy.

PREPARED APPLE, OR QUINCE JUICE.

Pour into a clean earthen pan two quarts of spring water, and
throw into it as quickly as they can be pared, cored, and weighed, »
four pounds of nonsuches, pearmains, Ripstone pippins, or any
other good boiling apples of fine flavour. When all are done
stew them gently until they are well broken, but not reduced
quite to pulp; turn them into a jelly-bag, or strain the juice
from them without pressure through a closely-woven cloth,
which should be gathered over the fruit, and tied, and suspended
above a deep pan until the juice ceases to drop from it: this, if
not very clear, must be rendered so before it is used for syrup
or jelly, but for all other purposes once straining it will be suffi-

4.28 MODERN COOKERY. | [cHAP. Xx,

cient. Quinces are prepared in the same way, and with the
same proportions of fruit and water, but they must not be too
long boiled, or the juice will become red. We have found it
answer well to have them simmered until they are perfectly
tender, and then to leave them with their liquor in a bowl until
the following day, when the juice will be rich and clear. They
- should be thrown into the water very quickly after they are
pared and weighed, as the air will soon discolour them.
Water, 2 quarts; apples or quinces, 4 lbs.

COCOA-NUT FLAVOURED MILK.
(For sweet dishes, &c.)

Pare the dark outer rind from a very fresh nut, and grate it
on a fine and exceedingly clean grater; to every three ounces
pour a quart of new milk, and simmer them very softly for three
quarters of an hour, or more, that a full flavour of the nut may
be imparted to the milk without its being much reduced; strain
it through a fine sieve, or cloth, with sufficient pressure to leave
the nut almost dry : it may then be used for blamange, custards,
rice, and other puddings, light cakes and bread.
: To each quart new milk, 3 ozs. grated cocoa nut: ¢ to 1

our.

- Obs.—The milk of the nut, when perfectly sweet and good,
may be added to the other with advantage. To obtain it, bore
one end of the shell with a gimlet, and catch the liquid in a
cup; and to_extricate the kernel, break the shell with a ham-
mer: this is better than sawing it asunder.

COMPOTES OF FRUIT.

We would particularly invite the attention of the reader to
these wholesome and agreeable preparations of fruit, which are
much less served at English tables, generally, than they deserve
to be. We have found them often peculiarly acceptable to
persons of delicate habit who were forbidden to partake of
pastry in any form; and accompanied by a dish of boiled rice,
they are very preferable for children, as well as for invalids, to
either tarts or puddings.

Compote of spring fruit——(Rhubarb.) Take a pound of the
stalks after they are pared, and cut them into short lengths;
have ready a quarter-pint of water boiled gently for ten mi-'
nutes with five ounces of sugar, or with six should the fruit be
very acid; put it in, and simmer it for about ten minutes.
Some kinds will be tender in rather less time, some will require
more. ;

_ CHAP. XX.| SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. _ 429

Ods.—Good sugar in lumps should be used generally for these
dishes, and when they are intended for dessert the syrup should
be enriched with an additional ounce or two. Lisbon sugar will -
answer for them very well on ordinary occasions, but that which
is refined will render them much more delicate. |

Compote of green currants.—Spring water half pint ; sugar
five ounces; boiled together ten minutes.. One pint of green
currants stripped from the stalks; simmered three to five mi-
nutes.

Compote of green gooseberries.—This is an excellent compote
if made with fine sugar, and very good with any kind. Break
five ounces into small lumps and pour on them half a pint of
water; boil these gently for ten minutes, and clear off all the
scum ; then add to them a pint of fresh gooseberries freed from
the tops and stalks, washed, and well drained. Simmer them
gently from eight to ten minutes, and serve them hot or cold.
Increase the quantity for a large dish. ‘Ye

Compote of green apricots.—Wipe the down from a pound of
quite young apricots, and stew them very gently for nearly
twenty minutes in syrup made with eight ounces of sugar
and three quarters of a pint of water, boiled together the usual
time.

Compote of red currants.—A quarter-pint of water and five
ounces of sugar: ten minutes. One pint of ready picked
currants to be just simmered in the syrup from five to six
minutes. This receipt will serve equally for raspberries, or for
a compote of the two fruits mixed together. Hither of them
will be found an admirable accompaniment to batter, custard,
bread, ground rice, and various other kinds of puddings, as well
as to whole rice plainly boiled.

Compote of Kentish or Flemish cherries.—Simmer five ounces
of sugar with half a pint of water for ten minutes; throw into
the syrup a pound of cherries weighed after they are stalked,
and let them stew gently for twenty minutes; it is a great
improvement to stone the fruit, but a larger quantity will then
be required for a dish.

Compote of Morella cherries.— Boil together for fifteen
minutes, five ounces of sugar with half a pint of water; adda
pound and a quarter of ripe Morella cherries, and simmer
them very softly from five to seven minutes: this is a delicious
compote. i

Compote of Damsons.—Four ounces of sugar and half a pint
of water to be boiled for ten minutes; one pound of damsons
to be added, and simmered gently from ten to twelve minutes.

430 MODERN COOKERY. [[cnap. xx.

Compote of the Magnum Bonum, or other large plums.—Boil
six ounces of sugar with half a pint of water the usual time;
take the stalks from a pound of plums, and simmer them very
softly for twenty minutes. Increase the proportion of sugar if
needed, and regulate the time as may be necessary for the
different varieties of fruit.

Compote of bullaces.— The large, or shepherds’ bullace, is
very good stewed, but will require a considerable quantity of
sugar to render it palatable, unless it be quite ripe. Make a
syrup with eight ounces, and three quarters of a pint of water,
and boilin it gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, a pint and a
half of the bullaces freed from their stalks.

_ Compote of Siberian crabs.—To three quarters of a pint of

water add six ounces of fine sugar, boil them for ten or twelve
minutes, and skim them well. Add a pound and a half ot
Siberian crabs without their stalks, and keep them just at the
pont of boiling for twenty minutes; they will then become
tender without bursting. A few strips of lemon-rind and a _
little of the juice are sometimes added to this compote. ,

COMPOTE OF PEACHES.

Pare half a dozen ripe peaches, and stew them yery softly
from eighteen to twenty minutes, keeping them often turned in
a light syrup, made with five ounces of sugar, and half a pint of
water boiled together for ten minutes. Dish the fruit ; reduce
the syrup by quick boiling, pour it over the peaches, and serve
them hot for a second-course dish, or cold for dessert. They
should be quite ripe, and will be found delicious dressed thus.
A little lemon-juice may be added to the syrup, and the blanched
kernels of two or three peach or apricot stones.

Sugar, 5 ozs.; water, 4 pint: 10 minutes. Peaches, 6: 18 to
20 minutes.

Obs.—Nectarines, without being pared, may be dressed in the
same way, but will require to be stewed somewhat longer, unless
they be perfectly ripe.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR STEWED PEACHES.

Should the fruit be not perfectly ripe, throw it into boiling
water and keep it just simmering, until the skin can be easily
stripped off. Have ready half a pound of fine sugar boiled to
a light syrup with three quarters of a pint of water; throw in
the peaches, let them stew softly until quite tender, and turn
them often that they may be equally done; after they are
dished, add a little strained lemon-juice to the syrup, and

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 431

‘reduce it by a few minutes’ very quick boiling. The fruit is
sometimes pared, divided, and stoned, then gently stewed
until it is tender.

Sugar, 8 ozs.; water, ? pint: 10 to 12 minutes. Peaches, 6
or 7; lemon-juice, 1 large teaspoonful.

STEWED BARBERRIES, OR COMPOTE D’EPINE-VINETTE.

Boil to a thin syrup half a pound of sugar and three quarters
of a pint of water, skim it well, and throw into it three quarters
of a pound of barberries stripped from the stalks; keep them
pressed down into the syrup, and gently stirred: Morn five to
seven minutes will boil them. "

Sugar, 8 ozs.; water, } pint: 12 to 15 minutes. Barberries,
3 lb.: 5 to 7 minutes.

ANOTHER COMPOTE OF BARBERRIES FOR DESSERT.

When this fruit is first ripe it requires, from its excessive
acidity, nearly its weight of sugar to render it palatable; but
after hanging some time upon the trees it, becomes much mel-
lowed in flavour, and may be sufficiently sweetened with a
smaller proportion. According to the state of the fruit then,
take for each pound (leaving it in bunches) from twelve to
sixteen ounces of sugar, and boil it with three quarters of a
pint of water until it forms a syrup. Throw in the bunches of
fruit, and simmer them for five or six minutes. If their weight
of sugar be used, they will become in that time perfectly trans-
parent. As all vessels of tin affect the colour of the barberries,
they should. be boiled in a copper stewpan, or in a German
enamelled one, which would be far better.

Barberries, 1 lb.; sugar, 12 to 16 ozs.; water, 3 pint: fruit
simmered in syrup, 5 to 6 minutes.

GATEAU DE POMMES.

Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound of well refined
sugar and half a pint of water; then add a couple of pounds of
nonsuches, or of any other finely-fiavoured apples which can be
boiled easily to a smooth pulp, and the juice of a couple of
small, or of one very large lemon. Stew these gently until the

mixture is perfectly free from lumps, then boil it quickly,
keeping it stirred, without quitting it, until it forms a very
thick and dry marmalade. A few minutes before it is done add
the finely grated rinds of a couple of lemons; when it leaves
the bottom of the preserving-pan visible and dry, press it into
moulds of tasteful form; and either store it for winter use, or if

432 - * MODERN COOKERY. | [cHAP. XX.

wanted for table, serve it plain for dessert, or ornament it with
spikes of blanched almonds, and pour a custard round it for a
second course dish.

Sugar, 1 lb.; water, } pint: 15 minutes. Nonsuches or other
apples, 2 lbs.; juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons: 2 hours or more.

“GATEAU OF MIXED FRUITS. (GOOD.)

Extract the juice from some fresh red currants by simmering
them very gently for a few minutes over a slow fire; strain it
through a folded muslin, and to one pound of it add a pound
and a half of nonsuches or of freshly gathered codlings, pared,
and rather deeply cored, that the fibrous part of the apple may
be avoided. Boil these quite slowly until the mixture is per-
fectly smooth, then, to evaporate part of the moisture, let the
boiling be quickened. In from twenty-five to thirty minutes
draw the pan from the fire, and throw in gradually a pound |
and a quarter of sugar in fine powder; mix it well with the
fruit, and when it is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for
twenty minutes longer, keeping the mixture constantly stirred;
put it into a mould, and store it, when cold, for winter use, or
serve it for dessert, or for the second course: in the latter case
decorate it with spikes of almonds blanched, and heap solid
whipped cream round it, or pour a custard into the dish. For
dessert it may be garnished with dice of the palest apple-jelly.

Juice of red currants, 1 lb.; nonsuches, or codlings (pared and
cored), 13 lb.: 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14 lb.: 20 minutes.

Obs.—A. portion of raspberries, if still im season, may be
mixed. with the currants for this gateau, should their flavour be
liked.

For other and excellent varieties of gateaux of fruit, ~see
Newton solid, and Damson solid, Chapter XXI. Ripe peaches
and nonsuches will likewise do well for it. Codlings answer
perfectly for the preceding receipt, and the preparation is of
fine colour and very pleasant flavour: it ought to cut in clear
firm slices.

JELLIES.

CALF’S FEET JELLY. (ENTREMETS.)

- We hear inexperienced housekeepers frequently complain
of the difficulty of rendering this jelly perfectly transparent ;
but by mixing with the other ingredients, while quite cold,
the whites, and the crushed shells of a sufficient number of
egos, and allowing the head of scum which gathers on the jelly
to remain undisturbed after it once forms, they will scarcely

é
“

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 433

fail to obtain it clear. It should be strained through a thick
flannel-bag of a conical form (placed before the fire, should the
weather be at all cold, or the : 7
mixture will jelly before it
has run through), and if not
perfectly clear it must be
strained, again and again,
until it becomes so; though
we generally find that once
suffices. Mix thoroughly in —=—=
a large stewpan five half- “Sig
ee of strong ae pe l
stock (see page 425), a fu :

pint =A eterthall a pound of sear tor es

sugar roughly powdered, the juice of two fine lemons, the rind
of one and a half, cut very thin, the whites and shells of four
large eggs, and half an ounce of isinglass. Let these remain a
few minutes off the fire, that the sugar may dissolve more
easily; then let the jelly be brought to boil gradually, and do
not stir it after it begins to heat. When it has boiled gently
for sixteen minutes, draw it from the fire, and let it stand a

short time before it is poured into the jelly-bag, under which a -

bowl should be placed to receive it. When clear and cool, put
it into moulds which have been laid for some hours in water:
these should always be of earthenware in preference to metal.
If to be served in glasses, or roughed, the jelly will be sufficiently
firm without the isinglass, of which, however, we recommend a
small quantity to be thrown in always when the jelly begins to
boil, as it facilitates the clearing.

Calf’s feet stock, 2} pints; sugar, 1 1b.; sherry, 1 pint; juice
of lemons, 2 darge ; rind of 13; whites and shells of eggs, 4 large,
or 5 small: 16 minutes.

Obs. 1.—After all the jelly has dropped through the bag,
an exceedingly agreeable beverage may be obtained by pouring
in some boiling water ; from one to three half pints, according

to the quantity of jelly which has been made. The same ©

lan should be pursued in making orange or lemon jelly for an
invalid.
Obs. 2.—As it is essential to the transparency of calf’s feet
jelly of all kinds that the whole of the ingredients should be
quite cold when they are mixed, and as the stock can only be
measured in a liquid state, to which it must be reduced by heat-
ing, the better plan is, to measure it when it is first strained
from the feet, and to put apart the exact quantity required for
FF

an oe.

434 , “MODERN COOKERY. [cHap, Xx...

a receipt; but when this has not been done, and it is necessary
to liquefy it, it must be left until quite cold again before it is
used.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR CALF’S FEET JELLY.

To four calf’s feet, well cleaned and divided, pour a gallon
of water, and let them stew until it is reduced to rather less
than two quarts; or if, after the flesh has quite fallen from the
bones, the liquor on being strained off should exceed that quan-
tity, reduce it by rapid boiling in a clean uncovered pan over a
very clear fire. When it is perfectly firm and cold, take it,
clear of fat and sediment, and add to it a bottle of sherry, which
should be of good quality (for poor, thin wines are not well
adapted to the purpose), three quarters of a pound of sugar
broken small, the juice of five large or of six moderate-sized
lemons, and the whites, with the shells finely crushed, of seven
eggs, or of more, should they be very small. The rinds of three
lemons, pared exceedingly thin, may be thrown into the jelly a
few minutes before it is taken from the fire; or they may be
put into the jelly-bag previously to its being poured through,
when they will impart to it a slight and delicate flavour, with-
out deepening its colour much, If it is to be moulded, some-
thing more than half an ounce of isinglass should be dropped
lightly in where the liquid becomes visible through the head
of scum, when the mixture begins to boil; for if not sufficiently
firm, it will break when it is dished. It may be roughed, or
served in glasses without this addition; and in a liquid state
will be found an admirable ingredient for Oxford, or other
unch. .
x Calf’s fect, 4; water, 1 gallon: to be reduced more than
half. Sherry, 1 bottle; sugar, 2 lb. (more to taste); juice of
5 large lemons, or of six moderate-sized; whites and shells of 7
eggs, or more if small; rinds of lemons, 3 (for moulding, nearly
8 oz. of isinglass): 15 to 20 minutes.
- Obs.—An excellent and wholesome jelly for young people
may be made with good orange or raisin wine, instead of sherry ;
to either of these the juice of three or four oranges, with a small
portion of the rind, may be added instead of part of the lemons.

APPLE CALF'S FEET JELLY.

Pour a quart of prepared apple-juice: (see. page 427) on a
pound of fresh apples pared and cored, and simmer them until
they are well broken ; strain the juice, and let it stand until cold;
then measure, and put a pint and a half of it into a stewpan

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR. ENTREMETS. 435

with a quart of calf’s feet stock (see page 425), nine ounces of
sugar broken small, or roughly pounded, the juice of two fine
lemons, and the thin rinds of one and a half, with the whites
and shells of eight eggs. Let it boil gently for ten minutes,
then strain it through a flannel-kag, and when cool put it into
moulds. I¢ will be very clear, and firm, and of pleasant flavour.
Apples of good quality should be used for it, and the quantity
of sugar must be regulated by the time of year, as the fruit
will have lost much of its acidity during the latter part of the
season. ‘This receipt, which is the result of our own experi-
ment, and which we have found very successful, was first tried
just after Christmas, with pearmains and Ripstone pippins. A
little syrup of preserved ginger, or a small glass of fine white
brandy, would perhaps, to some tastes, improve the jelly ; but
we give it simply as we have had it proved ourselves.

Prepared apple juice, 1 quart; fresh apples, 1 lb.: 4 to ¢

hour. Strained juice, 11 pint; calf’s feet stock, 1 quart ; sugar,
9 ozs.; juice of lemons, 2; rind of 11; whites and shells of eggs,
8: 10 minutes.
_ Obs.—We would recommend the substitution. of quinces for
apples in this receipt as likely to afford a very agreeable variety
of the jelly: or equal portions of the two fruits might answer
well.

Unless the stock be very stiff, add isinglass to this, as to the
calt’s feet jelly, when it is to be moulded. |

ORANGE CALF’S FEET JELLY.

To a pint and a half of firm calf’s feet stock, put a pint of
strained China orange-juice, mixed with that of one or two
lemons; add to these six ounces of sugar, broken small, the
very thin rinds of three oranges and of one lemon, and the
whites of six eggs with half the shells crushed small. Stir
these gently over.a clear fire until the head of scum begins to
form, but not at all afterwards. Simmer the jelly for ten mi-
nutes from the first full boil; take it from the fire, let it stand
a little, then pour it through a jelly-bag until perfectly clear.
This is an original, and entirely new receipt, which we can re-
commend to the reader, the jelly being very pale, beautifully
transparent, and delicate in flavour: it would, we think, be
peculiarly acceptable to such invalids as are forbidden to take
wine in any form.

The proportions both of sugar and of lemon-juice must be
somewhat varied according to the season in which the oranges
are used. .

436 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XX.

Strong calf’s feet stock, 1} pint ; strained orange-juice, mixed
with a small portion of lemon-juice, 1 pint ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; rinds
of oranges, 3; of lemon, 1: 10 minutes.

Obs.—A small pinch of isinglass thrown into the jelly when
it begins to boil will much assist to clear it. When the flavour
of Seville oranges is liked, two or three can be used with the
sweet ones. ;

ORANGE ISINGLASS JELLY.

To render this perfectly transparent the juice of the fruit
must be filtered, and the isinglass clarified; but it is not usual
to take so much trouble for it. Strain as clear as possible, first.
through a sieve or muslin, then through a thick cloth or jelly
bag, one quart of China orange-juice, mixed with as muc
lemon-juice as will give an agreeable degree of acidity, or with
a small proportion of Seville orange-juice. Dissolve two
ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water, skim it well,
throw in half a pound of sugar, and a few strips of the orange-
rind, pour in the orange-juice, stir the whole well together,
skim it clean without allowing it to boil, strain it through a
cloth or through a muslin, many times folded, and when nearly
cold put it into the moulds.* | This jelly is sometimes made
without any water, by dissolving the isinglass and sugar in the
juice of the fruit.

Orange - juice, 1 quart; water, 1 pint; isinglass, 23 ozs.;
sugar, } lb.

ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. & ow
This is one of the
fanciful dishes which
make a pretty appear-
ance On a supper ta-
ble, and are accept-
able when much va-
riety is desired. Take
some very fine China
oranges, and with the
point of a small knife
cut out from the top
of each a round about
the size of a shilling;
then with the small

* In France, orange-jelly is very commonly served in the halved rinds of the
fruit, or in little baskets made as we shall hereafter direct. See Appendix.

, *

CHAP, XX.| SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 437

end of a tea or egg spoon, empty them entirely, taking pet
care not to break the rinds. Throw these into cold wateryand
make jelly of the juice, which must be well pressed from the
pulp, and strained as clear as possible. Oolour one halfa fine _
rose colour with prepared cochineal, and leave the other very, —
pale; when it is nearly cold, drain and wipe the orange rinds,
and fill them with alternate stripes of the two jellies; when
they are perfectly cold cut them in quarters, and dispose them
tastefully in a dish with a few light branches of myrtle between
them. Calf’s feet or any other variety of jelly, or different
blamanges, may be used at choice to fill the rinds; the colours,
uowever, should contrast as much as possible.

LEMON CALF’S FEET JELLY.

Break up a quart of strong calf’s feet stock, which should have
been measured while in a liquid state; let it be quite clear of .
fat and sediment, for which a small additional quantity should
be allowed ; add to it a not very full half-pint of strained lemon-
juice, and ten ounces of sugar, broken small (rather more or
Pes according to the state of the fruit), the rind of one lemon
pared as thin as possible, or of from two to three when a full
flavour of it is liked, and the whites, with part of the shells
crushed small, of five large or of six small eggs. Proceed as for
the preceding jellies, and when the mixture has boiled five
minutes throw in a small pinch of isinglass; continue the boiling
for five or six minutes longer, draw the pan from the fire, let it
stand to settle; then turn it into the jelly-bag. We have found
it always perfectly clear with once passing through ; but should
it not be so, pour it in a second time.

Strong calf’s feet stock, 1 quart; strained lemon-juice, short
1 pint; sugar, 10 ozs. (more or less according to state of fruit) ;
rind of from 1 to 3 large lemons; whites and part of shells of 5
large or 6 smalleggs: 5 minutes. Pinch of isinglass: 5 minutes
longer.

Che. About seven large lemons will produce the half pint of
juice. ‘This quantity is for one mould only. The jelly will be
found almost colourless unless much of the rinds be used, and
as perfectly transparent as clear spring water: it is also very
agreeable in flavour. For variety, part of the juice of the fruit
might be omitted, and its place supplied by maraschino, or any
other rich white liqueur of appropriate flavour.

CONSTANTIA JELLY.
Infuse in a pint of water for five minutes the rind of half a

438 MODERN COOKERY. | [omsp.xxe:

Seville orange, pared extremely thin ; add an ounce of isinglass3.
and when this is dissolved throw in four ounces of good sugar |
in lumps; stir well, and simmer the whole for a few minutes, ~
then mix with it four large wineglassesful of Constantia, and
strain the jelly through a fine cloth of close texture ; let it settle
and cool, then pour it gently from any sediment there may be,
into a mould which has been laid for an hour or two into water.
We had this jelly made in the first instance for an invalid .
who was forbidden to take acids, and it proved so agreeable-in
flavour that we can recommend it for the table. The isinglass,
with an additional quarter-ounce, might be clarified, and the
sugar and orange-rind boiled with it afterwards.

Water, 1 pint; rind } Seville orange: 5 minutes. Isinglass,
1 oz. ; sugar, 4 ozs.: 5 to 7 minutes. Constantia, 4 large wine-
glassesful.

STRAWBERRY ISINGLASS JELLY.

A great variety of equally elegant and excellent jellies for
the table may be made with clarified isinglass, clear syrup, and
the juice of almost any kind of fresh fruit ; but as the process of
making them is nearly the same for all, we shall limit our
receipts to one or two, which will serve to direct the makers for
the rest. Boil together quickly for fifteen minutes one pint of
water and three quarters of a pound of very good sugar ; mea-
‘sure a quart of ripe richly-flavoured strawberries without their
stalks; the scarlet answer best from the colour which they give;
on these. pour the boiling syrup, and let them stand all night.
The next day clarify two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint
of water, as directed at the beginning of this chapter; drain the
syrup from the strawberries very closely, add to it two or three
tablespoonsful of red currant juice, and the clear juice of one
large or of two small lemons ; and when the isinglass is nearly cold
mix the whole, and put it into moulds. . The French, who excel
in these fruit-jellies, always mix the separate ingredients when
they are almost cold; and they also place them over ice for an
hour or so after they are moulded, which is a great advantage,
as they then require less isinglass, and are in consequence much
more delicate. ‘When the fruit abounds, instead of throwing it
into the syrup, bruise lightly from three to four pints, throw
two. tablespoonsful of sugar over it, and let the juice flow
from it for an.hour or two; then pour a little water over,
and use the juice without boiling, which will give a jelly of
finer flavour than the other. ,

Water, 1 pint; sugar, ¢ Ib.: 15 minutes. Strawberries,

CHAP. XX.]° SWEET, DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 439.

1 quart; isinglass, 2} ozs.; water, 1 pint (white of egg 1 to 2
teaspoonsful) ; juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons. __ :

Obs.—The juice of any fruit mixed with sufficient sugar to
sweeten, and of isinglass to stiffen it, with as much lemon-juice
as will take off the insipidity of the flavour, will serve for this
kind of jelly. Pine-apples, peaches, and such other fruits as
do not yield much juice, must be infused in a larger quantity
of syrup, which must then be used in lieu of it. In this same
manner jellies are made with various kinds of wine and
liqueurs, and with the ingredients for punch as well; but we
cannot further multiply our receipts for them.

FANCY JELLIES.

. To give greater tran-
sparency of appearance to
jelly, it is made often in a
moulé of this form, or a
variation of it, somewhat ===
resembling the lower com-
partment of this. The
space left in the centre is
sometimes filled with very
light, whipped cream, fla-
voured and coloured so as
to eat agreeably with it,
' and to please the eye as
well: this may be taste-
fully garnished with pre-
served, or with fresh fruit. we
Italian jelly is made by A Ls
half filling a mould of Mould with cylinder.

this, or any of more convenient shape, and laying round upon.
it in a chain, as soon as it is set, some blamange made rather
firm, and cut of equal thickness and size with a small round
cutter ; the mould is then filled with the remainder of the jelly,
which must be nearly cold, but not beginning to set. Brandied
morella cherries, drained very dry, are sometimes dropped into
moulds of pale jelly ; and fruits, either fresh or preserved, are
arranged in them with exceedingly good effect when skilfully
managed ; but this is best accomplished by having a mould for

the purpose, with another of smaller size fixed in it by means .

of slight wires, which hook on to tne edge of the outer one.
By pouring water into this it may easily be detached from the
jelly ; the fruit is then to be placed in the space left by it, and

440 MODERN COOKERY, ~—“«([CHAP. XX.

- the whole filled up with more jelly: to give the proper effect, _
it must be recollected that the dish will be reversed when sent
to table.

QUEEN MAB’S PUDDING,
(An elegant summer dish.)

Throw into a pint of new milk the thin rind of a small
lemon, and six or eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised ;
or substitute for these half a pod of vanilla, cut small, heat it
slowly by the side of the fire, and keep it at the point of boil-
ing until it is strongly flavoured, then add a small pinch of
salt, and three quarters of an ounce of the finest isinglass, or a
full ounce should the weather be extremely warm; when this
is dissolved, strain the milk through a muslin, and put it into
a clean saucepan, with four ounces and a half of sugar in
lumps, and half a pint of rich cream; give the whole one boil,
and then stir it briskly and by degrees to the well-beaten yolks
of six fresh eggs ; next, thicken the mixture as a custard, over a
gentle fire, but do not hazard its curdling; when it is of
tolerable consistency, pour it out, and continue the stirring
until it is half cold, then mix with it an ounce and a half of
candied citron, cut in small spikes, and a couple of ounces of
_ dried cherries, and pour it into a mould rubbed with a drop of
- oil: when turned out it will have the appearance of a pudding. ~
' From ‘two to three ounces of preserved ginger, well drained
and sliced, may be substituted for the cherries, and ‘an ounce
of pistachio-nuts, blanched and split, for the citron; these will
make an elegant variety of the dish, and the syrup of the
ginger, poured round as sauce, will be a further. improvement.
Currants steamed until tender, and candied orange or lemon-
rind, are often used instead of the cherries, and the well-
sweetened juice of strawberries, raspberries (white or red),
_ apricots, peaches, or syrup of pine-apple, will make an agree-
able sauce; a small quantity of this last will also give a delicious
flavour to the pudding itself, when mixed with the other in-
_ gredients. Cream may be substituted entirely for the milk,
when its richness is considered desirable.

New milk, 1 pint; rind 1 small ‘lemon; bitter almonds, 6 to
8 (or, vanilla, 3 pod) ; salt, few grains; isinglass, 3 oz. (1 oz. in
sultry weather); sugar, 43 ozs.; cream, } pint; yolks, 6 eggs;
dried cherries, 2 ozs.; candied citron, 14 oz. (or, preserved
ginger, 2 to 3 ozs., and the syrup as sauce, and 1 oz. of blanched
pistachio-nuts; or 4 ozs. currants, steamed 20 minutes, and

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 441
2 ozs. candied orange-rind). For sauce, sweetened juice of
strawberries, raspberries, or plums, or pine-apple syrup.

_ Obs.—The currants should be steamed in an earthen cul-
lender, placed over a saucepan of boiling water, and covered
with the lid. It will be a great improvement to place the
pudding over ice for an hour before it is served.

NESSELRODE CREAM.

. Shell and blanch (see page 333*) twenty-four fine Spanish
chestnuts, and put them with three quarters of a pint of water
into a small and delicately clean saucepan. When they have
simmered from six to eight minutes, add to them two ounces of
fine sugar, and let them stew very gently until they are
perfectly tender; then drain them from the water, pound
them, while still warm, to a smooth paste, and press them
through the back of a fine sieve. While this is being done,
dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in two or three spoonsful of
water, and put to it as much cream as will, with the small
quantity of water used, make half a pint, two ounces of sugar,
about the third of a pod of vanilla, cut small, and well bruised,
and a strip or two of fresh lemon-rind, pared extremely thin.
Give these a minute’s boil, and then keep them quite hot by the
side of the fire, until a strong flavour of the vanilla is obtained.
Now, mix gradually with the chestnuts half a pint of rich,
unboiled cream, strain the other half pint through a fine
muslin, and work the whole well together until it becomes very
thick ; then stir to it a couple of ounces of dried cherries, cut
into quarters, and two of candied citron, divided into very
small dice. Press the mixture into a mould which has been
rubbed with a particle of the purest salad-oil, and in a few
hours it will be ready for table. The cream should be suffi-
ciently stiff, when the fruit is added, to prevent its sinking to
the bottom, and both kinds should be dry when they are used.

Chestnuts, large, 24; water, ? pint; sugar, 2 ozs. ; isinglass,
3 0z.; water, 3 to 4 tablespoonsful; cream, nearly } pint;
vanilla, } of pod; lemon-rind, 1 of 1 large: infuse 20 minutes
or more. Unboiled cream, 4 pint; dried cherries, 2 ozs.;
candied citron, 2 ozs.

Ohs.—When vanilla cannot easily be obtained, a little noyeau
may be substituted for it, but a full weight of isinglass must
then be used. Both this receipt and the following one are
entirely new, and our directions for them must be followed with
exactness, should the reader wish to ensure their success.

* Receipt, Stewed Chestnuts.

442 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXs'

CREME A LA COMTESSE, OR THE COUNTESSS CREAM.

~ Prepare as above, boil and pound, eighteen fine sound chest-
nuts; mix with them gradually, after they have been pressed —

through a fine sieve, half a pint of rich sweet cream; dissolve in
half a pint of new milk a half-ounce of isinglass, then.add to.
them from six to eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised,
with two thirds of the rind of a small lemon, cut extremely thin,
and two ounces and a half of sugar; let these simmer gently for
five minutes, and then remain by the side of the fire for awhile.’
When the milk is strongly flavoured, strain it through muslin,
press the whole of it through, and stir it by degrees to the
chestnuts and cream; beat the mixture smooth, and when it
begins to thicken, put it into a mould rubbed with oil, or into
one which has been dipped in water and shaken nearly free of
the moisture. If set into a cool place, it will be ready for
table in six or eight hours. It has a pretty appearance when
partially stuck with pistachio-nuts, blanched, dried, and cut in
spikes, their bright green colour rendering them very orna-
mental to dishes of this kind: as they are, however, much more
expensive than almonds, they can be used more sparingly, or
intermingled with spikes of the firm outer rind of candied
citron.

Chestnuts, 18; water, full § pint; sugar, 1 oz: 15 to 25.
minutes, or more. Cream, } pint; new milk, } pint; isinglass, —

1 oz.3 bitter almonds, 6 to 8; lemon-rind, two thirds of 1;
sugar, 2} ozs.*

Obs.—This is a very delicate kind of sweet dish, which we
can particularly recommend to our readers: it may be rendered
more recherché by a flavouring of maraschino, but must then
have a little addition of isinglass. The preparation, without
this last ingredient, will be found excellent iced.

AN EXCELLENT TRIFLE.
Take equal parts of wine and brandy, about a wineglassful

of each, or two thirds of good Sherry or Madeira, and one of

spirit, and soak in the mixture four sponge-biscuits, and half a
pound of macaroons and ratifias; cover the bottom of the
trifle-dish with part of these, and pour upon them a full pint of
rich boiled custard made with three quarters of a pint, or
rather more, of milk and cream taken in equal portions, and

® The proportions boih of this and of the preceding cream must be increased
for a lar ze mould.

CHAP. XX.| SWEET.-DISITES, OR ENTREMETS. 443:

six eggs; and sweetened, flavoured and thickened by the receipt
of page 452; lay the remainder of the soaked cakes upon it,
and pile over the whole, to the depth of two or three inches,
the whipped syllabub of page 446, previously well drained ;
then sweeten and flavour slightly with wine only, less than
half a pint of thin cream (or of cream and milk mixed) ;
wash and wipe the whisk, and whip it to the lightest possible —
froth; take it off with a skimmer and aie it gently over the
trifle.

Macaroons and ratifias, | lb. ; wine sak brandy ed L
pint; rich boiled custard, 1 pint; whipped syllabub (see page
446) ; light froth to cover the whole, short 4 pint of cream and
milk mixed ; sugar, dessertspoonful ; wine, } glassful.

SWISS CREAM, OR TRIFLE.
(Very good.)

Flavour pleasantly with lemon rind and cinnamon, a pint of
rich cream, after having taken from it as much as will mix
smoothly to a thin batter four teaspoonsful of the finest flour ;
sweeten it with six ounces of well-refined sugar, in lumps;
place it over a clear fire in a delicately clean saucepan, and
when it boils stir in the flour, and simmer it for four or five
minutes, stirring it gently without ceasing; then pour it out,
and when it is quite cold mix with it by degrees the strained
juice of two moderate-sized and very fresh lemons. Take a
quarter of a pound of macaroons, cover the bottom of a glass
dish with a portion of them, pour in a part of the cream, lay
the remainder of the macaroons upon it, add the rest of the
cream, and ornament it with candied citron, sliced thin. It
should be made the day before it is wanted for table. The’
requisite flavour may be given to this dish by infusing in the’
cream the very thin rind of a lemon, and part of a stick of
cinnamon, slightly bruised, and then straining it before the —
flour is added ; or, these and the sugar may be boiled together,
with two or three spoonsful of water, to a strongly flavoured
syrup, which, after having been passed through a muslin
strainer, may ‘be stirred into the cream. Some cooks boil the
cinnamon and the graiéed rind of a lemon with all the other
ingredients, but the cream has then to be pressed through a
sieve after it is made, a process which it is always desirable to
avoid.

Rich cream, 1 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; rind, 1 lemon; cinnamon,
1 drachm ; flour, 4 teaspoonsful; juice, 2 femons macaroons,
4 02s; candied citron, 1 to 2 ozs.

444 MODERN COOKERY. [clAP. XX:

TIPSY CAKE, OR BRANDY TRIFLE.

The old-fashioned mode of preparing this dish was to soak a
light sponge or Savoy cake in as much good French brandy as
it could absorb; then, to stick it full of blanched almonds cut
into whole-length spikes, and to pour a rich cold boiled
custard round it. It is more usual now to pour white wine
over the cake, or a mixture of wine and brandy; with this the
juice of half a lemon is sometimes mixed.

Chantilly Basket. —

FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND FRESH STRAWBERRIES.

Take a mould of any sort that will serve to form the basket
on, just dip the edge of some macaroons in melted. barley sugar,
and fasten them together with it; take it out of the mould,
keep it in a dry place until wanted, then fill it high with whipped
strawberry cream which has been drained on a sieve from the
preceding day, and stick very fine ripe strawberries over it. It
should not be filled until just before it is served.*

CREME MERINGUEE.

Infuse in a pint of new milk the very thin rind of a lemon,
with four or five bitter almonds bruised. As the quantity
should not be reduced, it should be kept by the side of the fire
until strongly flavoured, and not be allowed to boil for more
than two or three minutes. Sweeten it with three ounces of fine
sugar in lumps, and when this is dissolved, strain, and mix the

_ * For more minute directions, see Appendix.

CHAP, XX.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 445

milk with half a pint of cream; then stir the whole gradually
to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and thicken it like
boiled custard. Put it, when cold, into a deep dish, beat to a
solid froth the whites of the six eggs, mix them with five table-
spoonsful of pounded and sifted sugar, and spread them evenly
over the custard, which should be set immediately into a mode-
rate oven, baked half an hour, and served directly it is taken
out.

New milk, 1 pint ; rind of 1 lemon; bitter almonds, 5 ; sugar,
3 ozs. ; cream, 4} pint; yolks of eggs, 6; frothed whites of eggs,
6; sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonsful: baked, } hour.

Obs.—A layer of apricot, peach, or magnum bonum, marma-
lade, placed in the dish before the custard-mixture is poured in,
will convert this into the Gentleman Commoner’s pudding.

LEMON CREAM, MADE WITHOUT CREAM.

Pour on the very thin rinds of two fresh lemons, and a pound
of fine sugar broken small, or roughly powdered, one pint of
boiling water, and let them remain an hour ; then add the whites
_ of six eggs and the yolks of two, previously well beaten together,
and the juice of six lemons; mix them thoroughly, strain the
whole into a deep jug, set this into a pan of boiling water, and
stir the cream without quitting it until it is well thickened ; pour
it out, and continue the stirring at intervals until it is nearly
cold, when it may be put into the glasses. In cool weather this
cream will remain good for several days, and it should always
be made at least twenty-four hours before it is served.

Lemon-rinds, 2 ; sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1 pint: 1 hour. Whites
of 6 eggs; yolks of 2; juice of 6 lemons.

VERY GOOD LEMON CREAMS.

- Pour over the very thin rinds of two moderate-sized but
perfectly sound fresh lemons, and six ounces of sugar, half a
pint of spring water, and let them remain six hours; then add
the strained juice of the lemons, and five fresh eggs well beaten,
and also strained ; take out the lemon-rind, and stir the mixture
without ceasing over a gentle fire until.it has boiled softly from
six to eight minutes: it will not curdle as it would did milk
_ supply the place of the water and lemon-juice. The creams are,
we think, more delicate, thovgh not quite so thick, when the
yolks only of six eggs are used for them. They will keep well
for nearly a week in really cold weather.

Rinds of lemons, 2; sugar, 6 ozs. (or 8 when a very sweet dish

44.6 “MODERN COOKERY. = [OHAP. XX.

is preferred) ; cold water, } pint: 6 hours. Juice of lemons, 2;
eggs, 5: to be boiled softly 6 to 8 minutes.

Obs.—Lemon creams may, on occasion, be more th at Pd ;

prepared, by rasping the rind of the fruit upon the sugar whic
is used for them; or, by paring it thin, and boiling it for a few
minutes with the lemon-juice, sugar, and water, before they are
stirred to the eggs.

FRUIT CREAMS, AND ITALIAN CREAMS.

These are very quickly and easily made, by mixing with good

cream a sufficient proportion of the sweetened juice of fresh
fruit, or of well-made fruit jelly or jam, to flavour it: a few
drops of prepared cochineal may be added to deepen the colour
when it is required for any particular purpose. A quarter-pint
of strawberry or of raspberry jelly will fully flavour a pint of
cream: a very little lemon-juice improves almost all composi-
tions of this kind. When jam is used it must first be gradually
mixed with the cream, and then worked through a sieve, to
take out the seed or skin of the fruit. All fresh juice, for this
purpose, must of course, be cold; that of strawberries is best
obtained by crushing the fruit and strewing sugar over it.
Peaches, pine-apple, apricots, or nectarines, may be simmered
for a few minutes in a little syrup, and this, drained well from
them, will serve extremely well to mix with the cream when it
has become thoroughly cold: the lemon-juice should be added
to all of these. When the ingredients are well blended, lightly
whisk or mill them to a froth; take this off with a skimmer as
it rises, and lay it upon a fine sieve reversed, to drain, or if it is
to be served in glasses, fill them with it at once. ;

Italian creams are either fruit-flavoured only, or mixed with
wine like syllabubs, then whisked to a stiff froth and put into a
perforated mould, into which a muslin is first laid; or into a
small hair-sieve (which must also first be lined with the muslin),
and left to drain until the following day, when the cream must
be very gently turned out, and dished, and garnished, as fancy
may direct.

VERY SUPERIOR WHIPFED SYLLABUBS.

Weigh seven ounces of fine sugar and rasp on it the rinds of
two fresh sound lemons of good size, then pound or roll it to
powder, and put it into a bowl with the strained juice of the

lemons, two large glasses of sherry, and two of brandy; when —

the sugar is nearly or quite dissolved add a pint of rich cream,

and whisk or mill the mixture well; take off the froth as it —

CHAP. XX. | SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 4AT
rises, and put it into glasses. These syllabubs will remain
good for several days, and should always be made if possible,
four and twenty hours before they are wanted for table. The
full flavour of the lemon-rind is obtained with less trouble than
in rasping, by paring it very thin indeed, and infusing it for
some hours in the juice of the fruit.

Sugar, 7 ozs.; rind and juice of lemons, 2; sherry, 2 large
wineglassesful; brandy, 2 wineglassesful ; cream, 1 pint.

Obs—These proportions are sufficient for two dozens or more
of syllabubs: they are often made with almost equal quantities
of wine and cream, but are certainly neither so good nor so
wholesome without a portion of brandy.

BLAMANGES.
GOOD COMMON BLAMANGE, OR BLANC MANGERe
(Author's Receipt.)
Infuse for an hour in a i

pint and three quarters of Ma,
new milk the very thin
rind of one small, or
of half a large lemon

blanched and bruised; then =
add two ounces of sugar,
or rather more for persons rm
who like the blamange Modern blamange or cake mould.
very sweet, and an ounce
and a half of isinglass. Boil them gently over a clear fire,
stirring them often until this last is dissolved; take off the
scum, stir in half a pint of rich cream, and strain the blamange
into a bowl: it should be moved gently with a spoon until nearly
cold to prevent the cream from settling on the surface. Before
it is moulded, mix with it by degrees a wineglassful of brandy.
New milk, 12 pint ; rind of lemon, 3 large or whole small 1 ;
bitter almonds, 8; infuse 1 hour. Sugar, 2 to 3 ozs.; isinglass,
14 oz.: 10 minutes. Cream, } pint; brandy, 1 wineglassful.

RICHER BLAMANGE.
A pint of good cream with a pint of new.milk, sweetened and

- flavoured as above, or with a little additional sugar, and the rind

of one very fresh lemon with the same proportion of isinglass
will make very good blamange. A couple of ounces of Jordan
almonds may be pounded and mixed with it, but they are not
needed with the cream. ;

448 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XX

JAUMANGE, OR JAUNE MANGER, SOMETIMES CALLED DUTCH
FLUMMERY.

Pour on the very thin rind of a large lemon, and half a pound
of sugar broken small, a pint of water, and keep them stirred
over a gentle fire until they have simmered for three or four
minutes, then leave the saucepan by the side of the stove, that
the syrup may taste well of thelemon. In ten or fifteen minutes
afterwards add two ounces of isinglass, and stir the mixture often
until this is dissolved, then throw in the strained juice of four
sound, moderate-sized lemons, and a pint of sherry; mix the
whole briskly with the beaten yolks of eight fresh eggs, and then
pass it through a delicately clean hair-sieve : next thicken it in
a jar or jug placed in a pan of boiling water, turn it into a bowl,
and when it has become cool, and been allowed to settle for a
minute or two, pour it into moulds which have been laid in
water. Some persons add a small glass of brandy to it, and -
deduct so much from the quantity of water.

Rind of 1 lemon ; sugar, 8 ozs.; water, 1 pint : 3 or 4 minutes.
Tsinglass, 2 ozs.; juice, 4 lemons; yolks of eggs, 8; wine, 1 pint;
brandy (at pleasure), 1 wineglassful.

EXTREMELY GOOD STRAWBERRY BLAMANGE.

Crush slightly, with a silver or wooden spcon, a quart, meas,
sured without their stalks, of fresh and richly-flavoured straw-
berries ; strew over them eight ounces of pounded sugar, and
let them stand three or four hours; then turn them on to a fine
hair-sieve reversed, and press them through it. Melt over a
gentle fire two ounces of the best isinglass in a pint of new
milk, and sweeten it with four ounces of sugar ; strain it through
a muslin, and mix it with a pint and a quarter of sweet thick
cream; keep these stirred until they are nearly or quite cold,
then pour them gradually to the strawberries, whisking them
briskly together ; and last of all throw in, by small portions,
the strained juice of a fine sound lemon. Mould the blamange,
and set it in a very cool place for twelve hours or more, before
it is served.

Strawberries stalked, 1 quart; sugar, 8 ozs.; isinglass, 2 oz. ;
new milk, 1 pint; sugar, 4 0zs.; cream, 1} pint; juice, 1 lemon.

QUINCE BLAMANGE,
(Delicious.) ,
This, if carefully made, and with ripe quinces, is one of the
most richly- flavoured preparations of fruit that we have ever

CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 449

tasted; and the receipt, we may venture to say, will be alto-
gether new to the reader. Dissolve in a pint of prepared juice
of quinces (see page 427), an ounce of the best isinglass; next,
add ten ounces of sugar, roughly pounded, and stir these to-
gether gently over a clear fire, from twenty to thirty minutes,
or until the juice jellies in falling from the spoon. Remove the
scum carefully, and pour. the boiling jelly gradually to half a
pint of thick cream, stirring them briskly together as they are
mixed: they must be stirred until very nearly cold, and then
poured into a mould which has been rubbed in every part with
the smallest possible quantity of very pure salad oil, or, if more
convenient, into one that has been dipped into cold water.

Juice of quinces, 1 pint; isinglass, 1 oz.: 5 to 10 minutes.
Sugar, 10 ozs.: 20 to 80 minutes. Cream, } pint.

QUINCE BLAMANGE, WITH ALMOND CREAM,

When cream is not procurable, which will sometimes happen
in the depth of winter, almonds, if plentifully used, will atford
a very good substitute, though the finer blamange is made from
the foregoing receipt. On four ounces of almonds, blanched
and beaten to the smoothest paste, and moistened in the pound-
ing with a few drops of water, to prevent their oiling, pour a
pint of boiling quince-juice ; stir them together, and turn them
into a strong ‘cloth, of which let the ends be held and twisted
different ways by two persons, to express the cream from the
almonds; put the juice again on the fire, with half a pound of
sugar, and when it boils, throw in nearly an ounce of fine
isinglass ; simmer the whole for five minutes, take off the scm,
stir the blamange until it is nearly cold, then mould it for table.
Increase the quantity both of this and of the preceding bla-
mange, when a large dish of either is required.

Quince-juice, 1 pint ; Jordan almonds, 4 ozs.; sugar, 4 lb.3
isinglass, nearly 1 oz.: 5 minutes.

APRICOT BLAMANGE, OR CREME PARISIENNE.

Dissolve gently an ounce of fine isinglass in a pint-of new

milk or of thin cream, and strain it through a folded muslin;
put it into a clean saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, broken
into small lumps, and when it boils, stir to it half a pint of
“rich cream; add it, at first by spocnsful only, to eight ounces
of the finest apricot jam, mix them very smoothly, and stir the
whole until it is nearly cold that the jam may not sink to the
bottom of the mould: a tablespoonful of lemon-juice will
improve the flavour. ity

450 MODERN COOKERY. (car. xx.

When cream is scarce, use milk instead, with an additional
quarter-ounce of isinglass, and enrich it by pouring it boiling
on the same proportion of almonds as for the second quince
blamange (see page 449). Cream can in all cases be substi-
tuted entirely for the milk, when a very rich preparation is
desired. Peach jam will answer admirably for this receipt ;
but none of any kind should be used for it which has not been
passed through a sieve when made.

Isinglass, 1 oz.; new milk, 1 pint; cream, } pint; sugar, 3
0zs.; apricot jam, 4 lb.; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful. Or:
peach jam, } 1b.; cream, 1 pint. |

CURRANT BLAMANGE.

In three quarters of a pint of clear currant-juice, drawn from °
the fruit as for jelly, and strained, dissolve an ounce and a half
of isinglass ; add nine ounces of sugar broken small, give the
whole a boil, strain it, and stir it by slow degrees to three
quarters of a pint of thick cold cream; when it is less than
milk-warm pour it into the moulds. The proportions of juice
and cream can be varied to the taste, and a portion of rasp-
berries or strawberries added to the currants. Black currants
would, we think, make an agreeable variety of this blamange
for persons who like their peculiar flavour, but we have not
tried them. a:

Clear juice of red currants, } pint; isinglass, 1} oz.; sugar,
9 ozs. ; cream, # pi

BLAMANGE RUBANE, OR, STRIPED BLAMANGE.

Make in the ordinary way, but a little firmer, one quart or
two of blamange, according to the number of moulds that are.
to be filled ; divide it into three or four equal portions; add to.
one, sufficient prepared spinach-juice (see page 427), to colour it
a full or a pale green; to another, some liquid cochineal or.
carmine ;* to a third, should further variety be desired, a few
drops of a strong infusion of saffron, or if its peculiar flavour
be objected to, stir quickly some of the blamange quite boiling
to the well-beaten yolks of three or four fresh eggs, and thicken
it a little over a gentle fire with an additional spoonful or two
of milk, for unless the whole be nearly of the same consistency,
it will be liable to separate in the unmoulding. Chocolate, first
boiled very smooth in a small quantity of water, will give an
additional colour; and some firm, clear isinglass, or calf’s-foot

“ This may be purchased at any chemist’s, when the trouble of preparing it is
objected to. ;

CHAP. XX. | SWEET DISHES. . *451

jelly, may be used for an occasional stripe, where great variety
is desired. The different kinds of blamange should be poured
into the mould in half-inch depths, when so cool as to be only
just liquid, and one colour must be perfectly cold before
another is added, or they will run together, and spoil the
appearance of the dish. When ice is not procurable, the
moulds in warm weather may be set into water, mixed with
plenty of salt and saltpetre: the insides should be rubbed with
a drop of very pure salad oil, instead of being laid into fresh
water, as usual.

STRENGTHENING BLAMANGE. (EXCELLENT.)

Dissolve in a pint of new milk, half an ounce of isinglass,
strain it through a muslin, or a fine silk sieve, put it again on the
fire with the rind of half a small lemon pared very thin, and two
ounces of sugar, broken small; let it simmer gently until well
flavoured, then take out the lemon-peel, and stir the milk to the
beaten yolks of three fresh eggs; pour the mixture back into
the saucepan, and hold it over the fire, keeping it stirred until it
begins to thicken ; put it into a’deep basin, and keep it moved
with a whisk or spoon, until it is nearly cold, then pour it into
moulds which have been laid in water, and set it in a cool place
till firm. ‘This is both a wholesome and an agreeable prepara-
tion, which we can particularly recommend for invalids, as well
as for the table generally.

New milk, 1 pint; isinglass, } oz.; lemon rind, 3 of 1: 10 to
15 minutes. Sugar, 2 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 3.

LEMON SPONGE, OR MOULDED LEMON CREAM.

Infuse in half a pint of cream the very thin rind of one large
lemon, or of one and a half of smaller size; or, instead of this,
rasp the fruit with the sugar which is to be used for the pre-
paration. Add three quarters of an ounce of fine isinglass, and
when this is dissolved throw in seven ounces of sugar in small
lumps. Do not boil the mixture, to reduce it, but let it be
kept near the point of simmering, until the sugar and isinglass
are entirely dissolved, and a full flavour of the lemon-rind has
been obtained; then stir in another half pint of cream, and
_ strain the mixture immediately into a deep bowl or pan. When
it is quite cold, add to it very gradually the strained juice of
one lemon and a half, whisking the preparation well all the
time ; and when it begins to set, which may be known by its he-
coming very thick, whisk it lightly to a sponge, pour it into an
oiled mould, and, to prevent its breaking when it is dished,

452 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. Xx.

just dip the mould into hot, but not boiling water; loosen the
edges carefully, and turn out the cream: to save time and
trouble the whisking may be omitted, and a viens lemon-cream
take place of the sponge.

Cream, 1 pint; rind of lemons 2 middling-sized, or 1} large;
isinglass, 2 oz.; sugar, 7 ozs.; juice of 14 lemon.

Obs.—For this, as for all other dishes of the kind, a little
more or less of isinglass may be required according to the state
of the weather, a larger proportion being needed in summer
than in winter. ~

AN APPLE HEDGE-HOG, OR SUEDOISE.

This dish is formed of apples, pared, cored without being
divided, and stewed tolerably tender in a light syrup. These
are placed in in a dish, after being well drained, and filled with
apricot, or any
other rich marma-
lade, and arranged
in two or more
layers, so as to give,
when the whole is
complete, the form
shown in the en-
= graving. ‘The num-
ber renin must depend on the size of the dish. From
three to five pounds more must be stewed down into a smooth
and dry marmalade, and with this all the spaces between them
are to be filled ‘up, and the whole are to be covered with it; an
icing of two eggs, beaten to a very solid froth, and mixed with two
heaped tablespoonsful of sugar, must then be spread evenly over.
the suédoise, fine sugar sifted on this, and spikes of blanched
almonds, cut lengthwise, stuck over the entire surface ; the dish
is then to be placed in a moderate oven until the almonds are
browned, but not too deeply, and the apples are hot through. |
It is not easy to give the required form with less than fifteen
apples; eight of these may first be simmered in a syrup made
with half a pint of water and six ounces of sugar, and the
remainder may be thrown in after these are lifted out. Care
must be taken to keep them firm. The marmalade should be
sweet, and pleasantly flavoured with lemon.

IMPERIAL GOOSEBERRY-FOOL.

Simmer a pound of green gooseberries which have been freed
from the buds and stalks, in three quarters of a pint of water,

CHAP. XX. | SWEET DISHES. 453°

until they are well broken, then strain them, and to half a
pound of the juice add half a pound of sugar, broken small: .
boil these together for fifteen minutes. Dissolve half an ounce
of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of rich cream, pour them into a
basin, and stir them until only lukewarm, then mix them by
degrees with the sugar and gooseberry-juice, which should also
have been allowed to cool; add the strained juice of half a small
lemon, and mould the mixture, which should stand at least
. twelve hours, in a cool place before it is turned out.

These proportions are sufficient for a small mould only, and
must: be doubled for a large one. ‘The dish is too sweet for our
own taste, but as it has been highly approved by several persons
who have tasted it, we give the receipt exactly as we had
it tried in the first instance: it will be found extremely easy to —
_ Vary it.

VERY GOOD OLD-FASEIONED BOILED CUSTARD,

Throw into a pint and a half of new milk, the very thin rind
of a fresh lemon, and let it infuse for half an hour, then simmer
them together for a few minutes, and add four ounces and a
half of white sugar. Beat thoroughly the yolks of fourteen
fresh eges, mix with them another half-pint of new milk, stir
the boiling milk quickly to them, take out the lemon-peel, and.
turn the custard into a deep jug; set this over the fire in a pan
of boiling water, and keep the custard stirred gently, but
without ceasing, until it begins to thicken; then move the
spoon rather more quickly, making it always touch the bottom
of the jug, until the mixture is brought to the point of boiling,
when it must be instantly taken from the fire, or it will curdle
in a moment. Pour it into a bowl, and keep it stirred until
nearly cold, then add to it by degrees a wineglassful of good
brandy, and two ounces of blanched almonds, cut into spikes;
or omit these, at pleasure. A few bitter ones, bruised, can be
boiled in the milk in lieu of lemon-peel, when their flavour is
preferred.

New milk, 1 quart; rind of 1 lemon; sugar, 43 ozs.; yolks
of eggs, 14; salt, less than } saltspoonful.

RICH BOILED CUSTARD.

Take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream, and simmer
the remainder for a few minutes with four ounces of sugar and
the rind of a lemon, or give it any other flavour that may be
preferred. Beat and strain the yolks of eight eggs, mix them,

AGA MODERN COOKERY. [orap. ‘xx, *

with the cupful of cream, and stir the rest boiling to them:
thicken the custard like the preceding one.
Cream, 1 quart ; sugar, 4 0zs.; yolks of eggs, 8.

THE QUEEN'S CUSTARD.

On the beaten and strained yolks of twelve new laid eggs
pour a pint and a half of boiling cream which has been sweetened,
with three ounces of sugar; add thé smallest pinch of salt, and
thicken the custard as usual. When nearly cold, flavour it
with a glass and a half of noyeau, maraschino, or cuirasseau, and
add the sliced almonds or not, at pleasure.

Yolks of eggs, 12; cream, 14 pint; sugar, 3 ozs. ; little salt ;
noyeau, maraschino, or cuirasseau, ]} wineglassful. |

CURRANT CUSTARD.

Boil in a pint of clear currant-juice ten ounces of sugar for
three minutes, take off the scum, and pour the boiling juice on
eight well beaten eggs; thicken the custard in a jug set into a
pan of water, pour it out, stir it till nearly cold, then add to it
carefully, and by degrees, half a pint of rich cream, and last of
all two tablespoonsful of strained lemon-juice. When the cur-
rants are very ripe omit one ounce of the sugar.

White currants and strawberries, cherries, red or white rasp-
berries, or a mixture of any of these fruits, may be used for
these custards with good effect: they are excellent.

Currant-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 10 ozs.: 3 minutes. Eggs, 8;
cream, } pint; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful.

QUINCE, OR APPLE CUSTARDS.

Add to a pint of apple-juice prepared as for jelly, a table-
spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and from four to six ounces of
sugar according to the acidity of the fruit; stir these boiling,
quickly, and in small portions, to eight well-beaten eggs, and
thicken the custard in a jug placed in a pan of boiling water, in
the usual manner. A larger proportion of lemon-juice and a
high flavouring of the rind can be given when approved. For
quince custards, which if well made are excellent, observe the
same directions as for the apple, but omit the lemon-juice. As
we have before. observed, all custards are much finer when made
with the yolks only of the eggs, of which the number must. be
increased nearly half, when this is done.

Prepared apple-juice (see page 427), 1 pint; lemon-juice, 1
tablespoonful ; sugar, 4 to 6 ozs.; eggs, 8. Quince custards, —
same proportions, but no lemon-juice.

baer

CHAP. XX, | SWEET DISHES. 455

_Obs.—In making lemon-creams the apple-juice may be sub-
stituted very advantageously for water, without varying the
receipt in other respects.

THE DUKE’S CUSTARD.

Drain well from their juice, and then roll in dry sifted sugar,
as many fine brandied Morella cherries as will cover thickly the
bottom of the dish in which this is to be sent to table; arrange
them in it, and pour over them from a pint to a pint and a haif
of rich cold boiled custard ; garnish the edge with macaroons or
Naples biscuits, or pile upon the custard some solid rose-coloured
whipped cream, highly flavoured with brandy.

Brandied Morella cherries, } to whole pint; boiled custard,
from 1 to 1} pint ; thick cream, } pint or more; brandy, ] to 2
glassesful; sugar, 2 to 3 ozs.; juice of } large lemon; prepared
cochineal, or carmine, 20 or 40 drops.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS.

Dissolve gently by the side of the fire an ounce and a half
of the best chocolate in rather more than a wineglassful of water,
and then boil it until it is perfectly smooth ; mix with it a pint
of milk well flavoured with lemon peel or vanilla, add two
ounces of fine sugar, and when the whole boils, stir it to five
well-beaten eggs that have been strained. Put the custard into
a jar or jug, set it into a pan of boiling water, and stir it with-
out ceasing until itis thick. Do not put it into glasses or a dish
till nearly or quite cold. These, as well as all other custards,
are infinitely finer when made with the yolks only of the eggs,
of which the number must then be increased. ‘Two ounces of
chocolate, 2 pint of milk, half a pint of cream, two ounces and a
half or three ounces of sugar, and eight yolks of eggs, will make
very superior custards of this kind.

Rasped chocolate, 14 oz.; water, 1 large wineglassful: 5 to 8
minutes. New milk, 1 pint; eggs, 5; sugar, 20zs. Or: choco-
late, 2 ozs.; water, + pint; new milk, 1 pint: sugar, 23 to 3 ozs.;
cream, 4 pint; yolks of eggs, 8.

Obs.—Kither of these may be moulded by dissolving from
half to three quarters of an ounce of isinglass in the milk. The
proportion of chocolate can be increased to the taste.

COMMON BAKED CUSTARD.

Mix a quart of new milk with eight well beaten eggs, strain
the mixture through a fine sieve, and sweeten it with trom five
to eight ounces of sugar, according to the taste; add a small

456. MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XX.

pinch of salt, and pour the custard into a deep dish with or
without a lining or rim of paste, grate nutmeg or lemon rind.
over the top, and bake it in a very slow oven from twenty to
thirty minutes, or longer, should it not be firm in the centre.
A custard, if well made, and properly baked, will be quite
smooth when cut, without the honey-combed appearance which
a hot oven gives; and there will be no whey in the dish.

New milk, 1 quart; eggs, 8; sugar, 5 to 8 ozs.; salt, 4 salt-
spoonful; nutmeg or lemon-grate: baked, slow oven, 20 to 30
minutes, or more.

A FINER BAKED CUSTARD.

Boil together gently, for five minutes, a pint and a half of
new milk, a few grains of salt, the very thin rind of a lemon,
and six ounces of loaf sugar; stir these boiling, but very gra-

dually to the well-beaten yolks of ten fresh eggs, and the whites '
of four; strain the mixture, and add to it half a pint of good.

cream ; let it cool, and then flavour it with a few spoonsful of

brandy, or a little ratafia; finish and bake it by the directions

given for the common custard above; or pour it into small

well-buttered cups, and bake it very slowly from ten to twelve

minutes. |
FRENCH CUSTARDS.

To a quart of new milk allow the yolks of twelve fresh eggs,
but to equal parts of milk and cream of ten only. From six
to eight ounces of sugar will sweeten the custard sufficiently
for general taste, but more can be added at will; boil this for
afew minutes gently in the milk with a grain or two of salt,
and stir the mixture briskly to the eggs, as soon as it is taken
from the fire. Butter a round deep dish, pour in the custard,
and place it in a pan of water at the point of boiling, taking
care that it shall not reach to within an inch ofthe edge; let it
just simmer, and no more, from an hour to an hour and 4 half:
when quite firm in the middle, it will be done. A very few
live embers should be kept on the lid of the stewpan to prevent
the steam falling from it into the custard. When none is at

hand of a form to allow of this, it is better to use a charcoal |

fire, and to lay an oven-leaf, or tin, over the pan, and the em-
bers in the centre. The small French furnace, shown in Chap-
ter XXI., is exceedingly convenient for preparations of this

kind; and there is always more or less of difficulty in keeping

a coal fire entirely free from smoke for any length of time.
Serve the custard cold, with chopped macaroons, or ratafias, laid
thickly round the edge so as to form a border an inch deep,

CHAP. XX. ] SWEET DISHES. 457

A few petals of fresh orange-blossom infused in the milk, will
give it a most agreeable flavour, very superior to that derived
from the distilled water. Half a pod of vanilla, cut in short
lengths, and well bruised, may be used instead of either; but
the milk should then stand some time by the fire before or after
it boils, and it must be strained through a muslin before it is
added to the eggs, as the small seed of the vanilla would pro-
bably pass through a sieve.

New milk, 1 quart ; yolks of eggs, 12 ; sugar, 6 to 8 ozs. Or:
new milk, 1 pint; cream, 1 pint; yolks of eggs, 10; flavouring
~ orange-flowers or vanilla: simmered in water-bath, 1 to 1}

our.

GERMAN PUFFS.

Pound to a perfectly smooth paste two ounces of Jordan al-
monds and six bitter ones; mix with them, by slow degrees,
the yolks of six, and the whites of three eggs. Dissolve in half
a pint of rich cream, four ounces of fresh butter, and two of
fine sugar ; pour these hot to the eggs, stirring them briskly to-
gether, and when the mixture has become cool, flavour it with
half a glass of brandy, of cuirasseau, or of orange-flower water ;
or, in lieu of either, with a little lemon-brandy. Butter some
cups thickly, and strew into them a few slices of candied citron,
or orange rind; pour in the mixture, and bake the puffs twenty
minutes, in a slow oven.

Jordan almonds, 2 ozs.; bitter almonds, 6; eggs, whites, 3,
—yolks, 6; cream, } pint ; butter, 4 ozs.; sugar, 2 ozs.; brandy,
culrasseau, or orange-flower water, 4 wineglassful (or little ©
lemon-brandy) : 20 minutes, slow oven.

MERINGUE OF PEARS, OR OTHER FRUIT.

Fill a deep tart-dish nearly to the brim with stewed pears,
and let them be something more than half covered with their
juice. Whisk to a solid froth the whites of five eggs, stir to
them five tablespoonsful of dry sifted sugar, and lay them
lightly and equally over the fruit; put the. meringue im-
mediately into a moderate oven, and bake it half an hour.
Cherries, bullaces, and damsons, with various other kinds of
geile first either stewed as for compotes (see page 428), or

aked with sugar, as for winter use, answer as well as pears for
this dish; which may, likewise, be made of apples, peaches,
apricots, or common plums boiled down quite to a marmalade,
with sufficient sugar to sweeten them moderately: the skins and

458 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XX.

stones of these last should be removed, but a few of the blanched
kernels may be added to the fruit.

Dish filled with stewed pears or other fruit; whites of eggs,
5; pounded sugar, 5 tablespoonsful: baked, } hour.

AN APPLE CHARLOTTE, OR CHARLOTTE DE POMMES.

Butter a plain mould (a
round or square cake- tin
will answer the purpose
quite well), and line it
entirely with thin slices of
the crumb of a stale loaf,
cut so as to fit into it with
great exactness, and dipped
into clarified butter. When this is done, fill the mould to the
brim with apple marmalade; cover the top with slices of bread
_ dipped in butter, and on these place a dish, a large plate, or the
cover of a French stewpan with a weight upon it. Send the
Charlotte to a brisk oven for three quarters of an hour
should it be small, and for an hour if large. Turn it out
with great care, and serve it hot. If baked in a slack
oven it will not take a proper degree of colour, and it will
be liable to break in the dishing. ‘The strips of bread must of
course join very perfectly, for if any spaces were left between
_ them the syrup of the fruit would escape, and destroy the good
appearance of the dish: should there not have been sufficient
marmalade prepared to fill the mould entirely, a jar of quince
or apricot jam, or of preserved cherries even, may be added to
it with advantage. ‘The butter should be well drained from the
Charlotte before it is taken from the mould; and sugar may be
sifted thickly over it before it is served, or it may be covered
with any kind of clear red jelly.

A more elegant, and we think an easier mode of forming the
crust, is to line the mould with small rounds of bread stamped
out with a plain cake or paste cutter, then dipped in butter, and
placed with the edges sufficiently one over the other to hold the
fruit securely: the strips of bread are sometimes arranged in the
same way. +
_ # tol hour, quick oven.

MARMALADE FOR THE CHARLOTTE.

Weigh three pounds of good boiling apples, after they have
been pared, cored, and quartered; put them into a stewpan with
six ounces of fresh butter, three quarters of a pound of sugar

CHAP. XX. | SWEET DISHES. - 459

beaten to powder, three quarters of a teaspoonful of pounded
cinnamon, and the strained juice of a lemon; let these stew
over a gentle fire, until they form a perfectly smooth and dry
marmalade; keep them often stirred that they may not burn,
and let them cool before they are put into the crust. This
quantity is for a moderate-sized Charlotte.

A CHARLOTTE A LA PARISIENNE.

_ This dish is sometimes called in England a Vienna cake; and
it is known here also, we believe, as a Gdleauxw de Bordeaux.
Cut horizontally into half-inch slices a Savoy or sponge cake,
and cover each slice with a different kind of preserve; replace
them in their original form, and spread equally over the cake an
icing made with the whites of three eggs, and four ounces of
the finest pounded sugar; sift more sugar over it in every part,
and put it into a very slack oven to dry. The eggs should be
whisked to snow before they are used. One kind of preserve,
instead of several can be used for this dish; and a rice or a
pound cake may supply the place of the Savoy, or sponge
biscuit.

A GERTRUDE A LA CREME.

Slice a plain pound or rice cake as for the Charlotte a la
Parisienne, and take a round out of the centre of each slice with
a tin-cutter before the preserve is laid on; replace the whole in
its original form, ice the outside with a green or rose coloured
icing at pleasure, and dry it ina gentle oven; or decorate it
instead with leaves of almond paste, fastening them to it with
white of egg. Just before it is sent to table, fill it with well-
drained whipped cream, flavoured as for a trifle, or in any
other way, to the taste.

POMMES AU BEURRE.
(Buttered apples. Excellent.)

Pare six or eight fine apples of a firm kind, but of a good
cooking sort, and core without piercing them through, or
dividing them; fill the cavities with fresh butter, put a quarter-
pound more, cut small, into a stewpan just large enough to con-
tain the apples in a single layer, place them closely together on
it, and stew them as softly as possible, turning them occasionally
until they are almost sufficiently tender to serve; then strew
upon them as much sifted sugar as will sweeten the dish highly,
and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon; shake these well in
and upon the fruit, and stew it for a few minutes longer. Lift
it out, arrange it in a hot dish, put into each apple as much

a 4
7
a
f

460 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. Xx.

warm apricot jam as it will contain, and lay a small quantity on
the top; pour the syrup from the pan round, but not on the fruit,
and serve it immediately.

Apples, 6 to 8; fresh butter, 4 ozs., just simmered till tender.
Sugar, 6 to 8 ozs.; cinnamon, | teaspoonful: 5 minutes. Apri-
cot jam as needed.

Obs.—Particular care must be taken to keep the apples entire:
they should rather steam in a gentle heat than boil. It is im-
possible to specify the precise time which will render them suffi-
ciently tender, as this must depend greatly on the time of year
and the sort of fruit. Ifthe stewpan were placed in a very slow
oven, the more regular heat of it would perhaps be better in its
effect than the stewing.

three ounces of very
white sugar, boiled
together for fifteen
minutes; lift them
out carefully into a
deep dish, and pour
about half the syrup
over them, and into
the remaining half throw a couple of pounds more of quite
ripe peaches. and boil them to a perfectly smooth, dry pulp,
or marmalade, with as much additional sugar, in fine powder,
as the nature of the fruit may require. Lift the other
peaches from the syrup, and reduce it, by very quick boiling,
more than half. Spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a
dish, arrange the peaches symmetrically round it, and fill all the
spaces between them with the marmalade; place the half of a
blanched peach-kernel in each, pour the reduced syrup equally
over the surface, and border the dish with Italian macaroons, or,
in lieu of these, with candied citron, sliced very thin, and cut
into leaves with a small paste-cutter, A little lemon-juice brings
out the flavour ofall preparations of peaches, and may be added
with good effect to this. When the fruit is scarce, the marma-
lade (which ought to be very white) may be made in part, or
entirely. with nonsuches. ‘Che better to preserve their form,
the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and then boiled tole-
rably tender in the syrup before they are pared or split. Half,

Suédoise of Peaches.

CHAP. XX. | SWEET DISHES, 461

a pint of water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must then
be allowed for them. If any of those used for the marmalade
should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it through a
sieve, when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy.

Large ripe peaches, pared and halved, 4: simmered in syrup,
5 to 8 minutes. Marmalade: peaches (or nonsuches), 2 lbs.;
sugar, 3 to }lb.: $ to 1lhour, and more. Strained lemon-juice,
1 tablespoonful. Citron, or macaroons, as needed.

Peaches, if boiled whole in syrup, 15 to 18 minutes. .

Obs.—The number of peaches can, at pleasure, be increased to
six, and three or four of the halves can be piled above the others
in the centre of the dish.

AROCE DOCE (OR SWEET RICE, A LA PORTUGAISE).

Wipe thoroughly, in a dry soft cloth, half a pound of the best
Carolina rice, after it has been carefully picked ; put to it three
ints of new milk, and when it has stewed gently for half an
our, add eight ounces of sugar, broken into small lumps; let
it boil until it is dry and tender, and when it is nearly so, stir
to it two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. ‘Turn the
rice, when done, into shallow dishes, or soup-plates, and shake
it until the surface is smooth ; then sift over it, rather thickly,
through a muslin, some freshly-powdered cinnamon, which will
give it the appearance of a baked pudding. Serve it cold.
It will remain good for several days. This is quite the best
sweet preparation of rice that we have ever eaten, and it is a very
favourite dish in Portugal, whence the receipt was derived. One
or two bitter almonds, pounded with the sweet ones, might a
little improve its flavour, and a few spoonsful of rich cream could
occasionally be substituted for a small portion of the milk, but
it should not be added until the preparation is three parts done.
Rice, 8 ozs.; milk, 3 pints: 30 minutes. Sugar, 8 ozs.: 1
hour, or more. Pounded almonds, 2 ozs.; cinnamon, | tea-
spoonful.
Obs.—The rice must be frequently stirred while boiling, par-
_ ticularly after it begins to thicken ; and it will be better not to
add the entire quantity of milk at first, as from a quarter to half
a pint less will sometimes prove sufficient. ‘The grain should be
thoroughly tender, but dry and unbroken.

BUTTERED CHERRIES. (CERISES AU BEURRE.)
Cut four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into dice, and
_fry them a light brown in an ounce and a half of fresh butter ;
take them up, pour the butter from the pan, and put in another

4.62 | MODERN COOKERY. — [cHaP. xx.

ounce and a half; to this add a pound of Kentish cherries with-
out their stalks, and when they are quite warmed through,
strew in amongst them four ounces of sugar, and keep the whole
well turned over a moderate fire ; pour in gradually half a pint
of hot water, and in fifteen minutes the cherries will be tender.
Lay the fried bread into a hot dish, pour the cherries on it, and
serve them directly.

Bread, 4 ozs.; butter, 1} oz. Cherries, 1 Ib.; butter, 13 oz::
10 minutes. Sugar, 4 ozs.; water, } pint: 15 minutes.

Obs.—Black-heart cherries may be used for this dish instead
of Kentish ones: it is an improvement to stone the fruit. We
think our readers generally would prefer to the above, Morella
cherries stewed from five to seven minutes, in syrup (made by
boiling five ounces of sugar in half a pint of water, for a quarter
of an hour), and poured hot on the fried bread. ‘Two pounds
of beh fruit, when it is stoned, will be required for a full-sized
dish.

SWEET MACCARONI.

Drop gently into a pint and a half of new milk, when it is
boiling fast, four ounces of fine pipe maccaroni, add a grain or
two of salt, and some thin strips of lemon or orange rind: cin-
namon can be substituted for these when preferred. Simmer
the maccaroni by a gentle fire until it is tolerably tender, then
add from two to three ounces of sugar broken small, and boil it
till the pipes are soft, and swollen to their full size; drain, and
arrange it in a hot dish; stir the milk quickly to the well-beaten
ror of three large, or of four small eggs, shake them round

riskly over the fire until they thicken, pour them over the
maccaroni and serve it immediately ; or instead of the eggs, heat
and sweeten some very rich cream, pour it on the drained
maccaroni, and dust finely-powdered cinnamon over through a
muslin, or strew it thickly with crushed macaroons. For
variety, cover it with the German sauce of page 126, milled to
a light froth. .

New milk, 13 pint; pipe maccaroni, 4 ozs.; strips of lemon-
rind or cinnamon ; sugar, 2 to 3 ozs.: 2 to 1 hour, or more.

BERMUDA WITCHES.

Slice equally some rice, pound, or Savoy cake, not more than
the sixth of an inch thick ; take off the brown edges, and spread
one half of it with Guava jelly, or, if more convenient, with fine
strawberry, raspberry, or currant jelly of the best quality (see
Norman receipt, 478); on this strew thickly some fresh cocoa-
nut grated small, and lightly ; press over 1t the remainder of the

CHAP. Xx. ] SWEET DISHES. 468

cake, and trim the whole into good form; divide the slices if .
large, pile them slopingly in the centre of a dish upon a very
white napkin folded flat, and garnish or intersperse them with
small sprigs of myrtle. For very young people a French roll
or two, and good currant jelly, red or white, will supply a
wholesome and inexpensive dish.

NESSELRODE PUDDING. .
We give Monsieur Caréme’s own receipt for this favourite and
fashionable dish, not having ourselves had a good opportunity of
proving it; but as it originated with him he is the best autho-
rity for it. It may be varied in many ways, which the taste or
ingenuity of the reader will easily suggest. Boil forty fine
sound Spanish chestnuts quite tender in plenty of water, take
off the husks, and pound the chestnuts perfectly with a few
spoonsful of syrup; rub them through a fine sieve, and mix
them in a basin with a pint of syrup made with a pound of
sugar clarified, and highly-flavoured with a pod of vanilla, a
pint of rich cream, and the yolks of twelve eggs; thicken the
mixture like a boiled custard; when it is cold put it intoa
freezing pot, adding a glass of maraschino, and make it set as
an iced cream; then add an ounce of preserved citron cut in
dice, two ounces of currants, and as many fine raisins stoned
and divided (all of which should be soaked from the day before
in some maraschino with a little sugar) ; the whole thus mingled,
add a plateful of whipped cream, and the whites of three eggs
prepared as for Italian meringue. When the pudding is per-
fectly frozen, mould it in a pewter mould of the form of a pine-
apple, and place it again in the ice till wanted to serve. Pre-
served cherries may be substituted for the raisins and currants.
Chestnuts, 40; syrup, 1 pint some spoonsful ; vanilla, 1 pod ;
cream, 1 pint; yolks of eggs, 12; maraschino, 1 glassful ; citron,
1 oz.; currants, 2 ozs.; raisins, 2 ozs.; whipped cream, 1 plate-
ful; whites of eggs beaten to snow, 3.
Obs,—As Monsieur Caréme directs the eggs for his Italian
meringues to be prepared as follows, he probably intends that
they should be mixed with the syrup before they are added to

_ the pudding. Boil together half a pound of the finest sugar,

and half a pint of water, until they begin to be very thick,

‘then with a wooden spoon, work the sugar against the side of

the pan till it whitens; leave it to cool a little, work it again,

_ and then with a whisk mingle with it the eggs whipped to a very

_ firm froth, which ought to produce a preparation very white,
_ smooth, and brilliant.

RE ce Sed ed

* ; a

AGA MODERN COOKERY. FoHaP. KXI.

CHAPTER XXL

PRESERVES.

Portable French Furnace, with Stewpan and Trevet.

No. 1. Portable French Furnace.—2. Depth at which the grating is placed.—
3. Stewpan.—4. Trevet.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS...

Fruir for preserving should always be gathered in perfectly
dry weather; it should also be free both from the morning
and evening dew, and as much so as possible from dust.
When bottled, it must be steamed or baked during the day on
which it is gathered, or there will be a great loss from the
bursting of the bottles; and for jams and jellies it cannot be
too soon boiled down after it is taken from the trees.

The small portable French stove, or furnace,* shown above,
with the trevet and stewpan adapted to it, is exceedingly con-
venient for all preparations which require either more than
usual attention, or a fire entirely free from smoke; as it can
be placed on a table in a clear light, and the heat can be regu-
lated at pleasure. It has been used for all the preserves of

* Called in France, Un Forneau Economique. To be had of Mr. L1vERMORE,
30, Oxford-street, at a very trifling expense, not more than seven shillings; the
stewpan, of course, not included. A baking-tin should be placed on the table for
the furnace to stand upon, to guard against danger from the ashes or embers
falling from it.

‘CHAP, XXI.] "PRESERVES. 465

which the receipts are given in this chapter, as well as for
various dishes contained in the body of the work. There
should always be a free current of air in the room in which it
stands when lighted, as charcoal or braise (that is to say, the
live embers of large well-burned wood, drawn from an oven
and shut immediately into a

closely-stopped iron or cop-
per vessel to extinguish

them) is the only fuel suited

to it. To kindle either of
these, two or three bits must

be lighted in a common fire,

and laid on the top of that

‘in the furnace, which should

be evenly placed between the

grating and the brim, and

then blown gently with the Q¥Y, ¥
bellows until the whole is Closed Furnace and Cover.
alight: the door of the fur-

nace must in the mean while

be open, and remain so, un-

- —

less the heat should at any
time be too fierce for the
preserves, when it must be
closed for a few minutes, to
moderate it. To extinguish
the fire altogether, the cover
must be pressed closely on,
and the door be quite shut:
the embers which remain will
serve to rekindle it easily, but —___
before it is again lighted the eS a Se
grating must be lifted out and ee ae hus

all the ashes cleared away. It should be set by in a place
which is not damp.

The German enamelled stewpans, now coming into general
use, are, from the peculiar nicety of the composition with
which they are lined, better adapted than any others to
_ pickling and preserving, as they may be used without danger
for acids; and red fruits, when boiled in them, retain the
brightness of their colour as well as if copper or bell-meial
were used for them. The form of the old-fashioned preserving-
pan, made usually of one or the other of these, is shown
above; but it has not, we should say, even tie advantage of

H H

Grating.

466 “MODERN COOKERY. [cnap. xxI.

being of convenient shape; for
the handles quickly become
heated, and the pan, in conse-
quence, cannot always be instan-
taneously raised from the fire
when the contents threaten to
over-boil or to burn.

It is desirable to have three

Copper Preserving Pan. = or four wooden spoons or spa-

tulas, one fine hair-sieve, at the least, one or two large squares
of common muslin, and a strainer, or more of closer texture,
kept exclusively for preparations of fruit, for if used for
other purposes, there is the hazard, without great care, of
their retaining some strong or coarse flavour, which the
would impart.to the preserves. A sieve, for example, throug
which any preparation of onions has been poured, should.
never, on any account, be brought into use for any kind of
confectionery, nor in making sweet dishes, nor for straining
eges or milk for puddings, cakes, or bread. Damp is the
great enemy, not only of preserves and pickles, but of number-
less other household stores; yet, in many Situations, it 1s
extremely difficult to exclude it. To keep them in a “dr
cool place’ (words which occur so frequently both in this
book, and in most others on the same subject), is more easily
directed than done. They remain, we find, more entirely
free from any danger of moulding, when covered with a
brandied paper only, and placed on the shelves of a tolerably
dry store-room ; but they are rather liable to candy when thus
kept, and we fancy that the flavour of the fruit is somewhat
less perfectly preserved than when they are quite secured from
the air by skins stretched over the jars. If left uncovered,
the inroads of mice upon them must be guarded against, as
they will commit great havoc in a single night on these sweet
stores. When the slightest fermentation is perceptible in
syrup, it should immediately be boiled for some minutes, and
well skimmed; the fruit taken from it should then be thrown
in, and well scalded also, and the whole, when done, should
be turned into a very clean dry jar: this kind of preserve
should always be covered with one or two skins, or with
parchment and thick paper.

A FEW GENERAL RULES AND DIRECTIONS FOR PRESERVING. .

1, Let everything used for the purpose be delicately clean
‘and dry ; bottles especially so.

CHAP, Xx1.] _- PRESERVES. © 4.67.

2. Never place a preserving pan flat upon the fire, as this
will render the preserve liable to burn to, as it is called; that
is to say, to adhere closely to the metal, and then to burn; it
should rest always on a trevet (that shown with the French
furnace is very convenient, even for a common grate), or on the
lowered bar of a kitchen range.

3. After the sugar is added to them, stir the preserves gently
at first, and more quickly towards the end, without quitting
them until they are done: this precaution will always prevent
the chance of their being spoiled. |

4. All preserves should be perfectly cleared from the scum

as it rises. .
__ 5. Fruit which is to be preserved in syrup must first be
blanched or boiled gently, until it is sufficiently softened to
absorb the sugar ; and a thin syrup must be poured on it at
first, or it will shrivel instead of remaining plump, and _ be-
coming clear. Thus, if its weight of sugar is to be allowed,
and boiled to a syrup with a pint of water to the pound, only
half the weight must be taken at first, and this must not be
boiled with the water more than fifteen or twenty minutes at
the commencement of the process; a part of the remaining
sugar must be added every time the syrup is reboiled, unless it
should be otherwise directed in the receipt.

6. To preserve both the true flavour and the colour of fruit
in jams and jellies, boil them rapidly until they are well
reduced, before the sugar is added, and quickly afterwards, but
do not allow them to become so much thickened that the sugar
will not dissolve in them easily, and throw up its scum. In
some seasons, the juice is so much richer than in others, that
this effect takes place almost before one is aware of it; but the
drop which adheres to the skimmer when it is held up, will
show the state it has reached.

7. Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers, for
preserves, as they will convert the colour of red fruit into a
dingy purple, and impart, besides, a very unpleasant flavour.

8. When cheap jams or jellies are required, make them at
once with Lisbon sugar, but use that which is well refined
always, for preserves in general; it is a false economy, as we
have elsewhere observed, to purchase an inferior kind, as
‘there is great waste from it in the quantity of*scum which
it throws up. The best has been used for all the receipts
given here,

468 MODERN COOKERY. = [[CHAP. XXI

TO EXTRACT THE JUICE OF PLUMS FOR JELLY.

Take the stalks from the fruit, and throw aside all that is not
perfectly sound: put it into very clean, large stone jars, and
give part of the harder kinds, such as bullaces and damsons,
a gash with a knife as they are thrown in; do this especially in
filling the upper part of the jars. Tie one or two folds of
thick paper over them, and set them for the night into an oven
from which the bread has been drawn four or five hours;
or cover them with bladder, instead of paper, place them in
deep pans of water, and boil them gently from two to three
hours, or until the fruit is quite soft, and has yielded all the
juice it will afford: this last is the safer and better mode for
jellies of delicate colour.

TO WEIGH THE JUICE OF FRUIT.

Put a basin into one scale, and its weight into the other; add
to this last the weight which is required of the juice, and pour
into the basin as much as will balance the scales. It is always
better to weigh than to measure the juice for preserving, as it
can generally be done with more exactness.

RHUBARB JAM.

The stalks of the rhubarb (or spring-fruit, as it is called,)
should be taken for this preserve, which is a very good and
useful one, while they are fresh and young. Wipe them ver
clean, pare them quickly, weigh, and cut them into half-ine
lengths; to every pound, add an equal weight of good sugar
in fine powder; mix them well together, let them remain for
ten: minutes or a quarter of an hour to draw out the juice a
little, then turn them into a preserving pan, let them heat
rather slowly, but as soon as the stalks are tender boil the
preserve rapidly, stirring it well for about half an hour. It
will be of excellent flavour, and will serve admirably for tarts.

A somewhat cheaper mode of making the jam is to stew it

until tender in its own juices, and then to boil it rapidly until it’

is tolerably dry, to add to it only half its weight of sugar, and to
give it from twenty to thirty minutes boiling.

Spring fruit (rhubarb), 4 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.: heated slowly,
and when tender, boiled quickly, 30 minutes.

Obs.—A jelly cf excellent flavour may be made in the same 4

manner as fine apple jelly, in this chapter, but it will require
longer boiling before the sugar is added to it,

CHAP. XX PRESERVES. ~ 469

GREEN GOOSEBERRY JELLY.

Wash some freshly gathered gooseberries very clean, after
having taken off the tops and stalks, then to each pound, pour,
three quarters of a pint. of spring water, and simmer them
until they are well broken; turn the whole into a jelly-bag
or cloth, and let all the juice drain through; weigh, and bol
- it rapidly for fifteen minutes. Draw it from the fire, and
stir in it until entirely dissolved, an equal weight of good sugar
reduced to powder; boil the jelly from fifteen to twenty
minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly on the spoon or
skimmer ; clear it perfectly from scum, and pour it into small
jars, moulds, or glasses. It ought to be very pale and trans-
parent. Preserved fruits just dipped into hot water to take
off the syrup, then well drained and dried, may be arranged
wit': good effect in the centre of the gooseberry jelly if the
glasses be rather less than half filled before they are laid in,
and the jelly just set: the remainder must be kept liquid to
fill them up. ‘The sugar may be added to the juice at first,
and the preserve boiled from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes,
but the colour will not then be so good. When the fruit
abounds, the juice may be drawn from it with very little water,
as directed for apples, page 491, when it will require much less
boiling. }

Gooseberries, 6 lbs.; water, 4 pints: 20 to 30 minutes.
Juice boiled quickly, 15 minutes; to each pound, 1 lb. sugar:
15 to 20 minutes.

GREEN GOOSEBERRY JAM.
(Firm and of good colour.)

Cut the stalks and tops from the fruit, weigh and bruise it.
slightly, boil it for six or seven minutes, keeping it well turned
during the time, then to every three pounds of gooseberries add
two and a half of sugar beaten to powder, and boil the preserve
quickly for three quarters of an hour. It must be constantly
stirred, and carefully cleared from scum.

Green gooseberries, 6 lbs.: 6 to 7 minutes. Sugar, 5 lbs. ;
> 2 hour.

TO DRY GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.
Take the finest green gooseberries, fully grown, and freshly
gathered ; cut off the buds, split them across the tops half

way down, and with the small end of a tea or of an egg-spoon,
scoop out the seeds. Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound

470 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXI..

and a half of the finest sugar, and a pint of water; skim this

3
Ee

syrup thoroughly and throw into it a pound of the seeded —

gooseberries; simmer them from five to seven minutes, when
they ought to be clear and tender ; when they are so, lift them

out, and throw as many more into the syrup; drain them a little

when done, spread them singly on dishes, and dry them very
gradually in a quite cool stove or oven, or in a sunny window.
They will keep well in the syrup, and may be potted in it, and
dried when wanted for use.

Green gooseberries without the seeds, 2 lbs.; water, 1 pint;
sugar, 13 lb.: boiled, 15 minutes. Gooseberries simmered, 5 to
7 minutes.

GREEN GOOSEBERRIES FOR TARTS.

Fill very clean, dry, wide-necked bottles with gooseberries
gathered the same day, and before they have attained their full
growth. Cork them lightly, wrap a little hay round each. of
them, and set them up to their necks in a copper of cold water
which should be brought very gradually to boil. Let the fruit be
gently simmered until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded ;

then take out the bottles, and with the contents of one or two.

fill up the remainder, and use great care not to break the fruit

in doing this. When all are ready pour scalding water into

the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely with it, or they. _

will become mouldy at the top. Cork the bottles well imme-

diately, and cover the necks with melted rosin; keep them in a.

cool place; and when they are used pour off the greater part of
the water, and add sugar as for the fresh fruit, of which they
will have quite the flavour and appearance; and they will be
found much more wholesome prepared in this manner than if
simply baked or steamed in the bottles. |

GREEN GOOSEBERRY SOLID.

Bruise well, and boil six pounds of fresh green gooseberries
for an hour and a quarter without sugar, and for half an hour
after having stirred to them a couple of pounds of good quality,
reduced quite to powder. Press the preserve into shallow

pans or small shapes, and unmould it when it is wanted for ©

table.
_ Green gooseberries, 6 Ibs.: 13 hour. Sugar, 2 Ibs.: 2 hour.

RED GOOSEBERRY JAM.

The small rough red gooseberry, when fully ripe, is the best
for this preserve, which may, however, be made of the larger

MS a ae ey eae

CHAP. XXI. ] _ PRESERVES. 471.

kinds. When the buds and stalks have been taken carefully
from the fruit, weigh, and boil it quickly for three quarters of
an hour, keeping it well stirred; then for six pounds of the
gooseberries, add two and a half of good roughly-powdered.
sugar (or three of fine Lisbon, if only a common preserve be
wanted); boil these together briskly, from twenty to twenty-
five minutes and stir the jam well from the bottom of the pan,
as it is liable to burn if this be neglected. :

Small red gooseberries, 6 lbs.: $ hour. Pounded sugar,
23 lbs. (for common jam Lisbon sugar 3 Ibs.) : 20 to 25 mi-
nutes.

VERY FINE GOOSEBERRY JAM.

Seed the fruit, which for this jam may be of the larger kind:
of rough red gooseberry: those which are smooth skinned are
generally of far inferior flavour. Add the pulp which has been
scooped from the prepared fruit to some whole gooseberries, and
stir them over a moderate fire for some minutes to extract the
juice ; strain and weigh this; pour two pounds of it to four of
the seeded gooseberries, boil them rather gently for twenty-five
minutes, add fourteen ounces of good pounded sugar to each
pound of fruit and juice, and when it is dissolved boil the
preserve from twelve to fifteen minutes longer, and skim it well
during the time.

Seeded gooseberries, 4 lbs. ; juice of gooseberries, 2 Ibs. : 25
minutes. Sugar, 5+ lbs. (or 14 ozs. to each pound fruit and
juice): 12 to 15 minutes.

JELLY OF RIPE GOOSEBERRIES.
(Lacellent.) *

Take the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of any kind
of well-flavoured ripe red gooseberries, and keep them stirred
gently over a clear fire until they have yielded all their juice,
which should then be poured off without pressing the fruit, and,
passed first through a fine sieve, and afterwards through a
double muslin-strainer, or a jelly-bag. Next weigh it, and to
every three pounds add one of white currant juice, which has
previously been prepared in the same way; boil these quickly
for a quarter of an hour, then draw them from the fire and stir
to them half their weight of good sugar ; when this is dissolved,
boil the jelly for six minutes longer, skim it thoroughly, and
pour it into jars or moulds. If a very large quantity be made,
a few minutes of additiong) boiling must be given to it before
the sugar is added, ”

472 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXf.>

Juice of red gooseberries, 3 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 1 lb.:
15 minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs.: 6 minutes.

Obs.—The same proportion of red currant juice, mixed with
that of the gooseberries makes an exceedingly nice jelly.

UNMIXED GOOSEBERRY JELLY.

' Boil rapidly for ten minutes four pounds of the juice of red
gooseberries, prepared as in the preceding receipt ; take it from
the fire, and stir in it until dissolved three pounds of sugar beaten
to powder ; boil it again for five minutes, keeping it constantly
stirred and thoroughly skimmed.

Juice of red gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.:
5 minutes.

GOOSEBERRY PASTE. :

Press through a sieve the gooseberries from which the juice
has been taken for jelly, without having been drained very
closely from them; weigh and then boil the pulp for upwards
of an hour and a quarter, or until it forms a dry paste in the .
pan; stir to it, off the fire, six ounces of good pounded sugar for
each pound of the fruit, and when this is nearly dissolved boil
the preserve from twenty to twenty-five minutes, keeping it
stirred without cessation, as it will be liable to burn should this
be neglected. Put it into moulds, or shallow pans, and turn it
out when wanted for table.

Pulp of gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 1} to 13 hour. Sugar, 14 lb. ;
20 to 25 minutes.

TO DRY RIPE GOOSEBERRIES WITH SUGAR.

_ Cut the tops, but not the stalks, from some ripe gooseberries
of the largest size, either red or green ones, and after having
taken out the seeds as directed for unripe gooseberries, boil the’
fruit until clear and tender, in syrup made with a pound of
sugar to the pint of water, boiled until rather thick.

Seeded gooseberries, 2 lbs.; sugar, 1} lb.; water, 1 pint:
boiled to syrup. Gooseberries, simmered 8 to 12 minutes, or
more.

Obs.—Large ripe gooseberries stripped of their buds, and put
into cold syrup in which cherries or any other fruit has been
boiled for drying, then heated very gradually, and kept at the:
point of boiling for a few minutes before they are set by for a
couple of days, answer extremely well as a dry preserve. On ~
the third day the syrup should be drained eonn them, sim-
mered, skimmed, and poured on them the instant it is taken’

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 473

from the fire; in forty-eight hours after, they may be drained
from it and laid singly upon plates or dishes, and placed in a
gentle stove or oven.

GOOSEBERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR.

Choose them fine and ripe, spread them separately on large
dishes, and dry them very gradually by the heat of a gentle
oven, or in the sun where they will be well protected from
dust. If flattened with the finger when partially done, they
will preserve a better form, and be more quickly dried.

CHERRY JAM.

First stone, and then weigh some freshly gathered Kentish
or Flemish cherries; boil them over a brisk fire for an hour,
keeping them almost constantly stirred from the bottom of the
pan, to which they will otherwise be liable to stick and burn;
add half a pound of good sugar roughly powdered for each
pound of the fruit, and boil the preserve quickly for twenty
minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. ‘The blanched kernels
of part of the cherries may be added to the jam five minutes
before it is taken from the fire. We can recommend this
receipt as producing a firm preserve of fine colour and flavour,
and very far superior to any that can be made by the more
common method of boiling the fruit and sugar together from
the beginning.

Stoned cherries, 6 lbs.: 1 hour. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 20 minutes.

Obs.—Increase the proportion of sugar, when it is liked, to
twelve or sixteen ounces, and diminish the boiling a quarter of
an hour before it is added, and ten minutes after. We have
found almost invariably, that preserves made by the receipts we
have given have been preferred to richer ones.

TO DRY CHERRIES WITH SUGAR.
(A quick and easy method.)

’ Stone some fine, sound, Kentish, or Flemish cherries; weigh
and put them into a preserving pan, with six ounces of sugar
reduced to powder, to each pound of the fruit; set them over a
moderate fire, and simmer them gently for nearly or quite
twenty minutes; let them remain in the syrup until they are a
little cooled, then turn them into a sieve, and before they are
cold lay them singly on dishes, and dry them very gradually,
as directed for other fruits. When the cherries are quite ripe
the stones may generally be drawn out with the stalks, by

gait | MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Xxt.

pressing the fruit gently at the same time; but when this
method fails, they must be extracted with a new quill, cut
round at the end: those of the very short-stalked, turnip-
shaped cherry, which abounds, and is remarkably fine in many
arts of Normandy, and which we have occasionally met with
ere, though it is not, we believe, very abundant in our mar-
kets, are easily removed with a large pin, on the point of which
the stone may be caught at the stalk end, just opposite the
seam of the fruit, and drawn out at the top, leaving the cherry
apparently entire. |

DRIED CHERRIES.
(Superior Recetpt.)
To each pound of cherries, weighed after they are stoned,
add eight ounces of good sugar, and boil them very softly for
ten minutes; pour them into a large bowl, or pan, and leave
them two days in the syrup; then simmer them again for ten
minutes, and set them by for two or three days; drain them
slightly, and dry them very slowly, as directed in the previous
receipts. Keep them in tin cases, or canisters, “when done.
These cherries are generally preferred to such as are dried with
a larger proportion of sugar; but when the taste is in favour of
the latter, three quarters, or a full pound, can be allowed to the
pound of fruit, which may then be potted in the syrup and
_ dried at any time; though we think the flavour of the cherries
is better preserved when this is done within a fortnight of their
being boiled.
Cherries, stoned, 8 lbs. ; sugar, 4 Ibs.: 10 minutes. Left two
or three days. Boiled again, 10 minutes ; left two days; drained
and dried.

CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR.

These are often more pleasant and refreshing to invalids and
travellers'than a sweetened confection of the fruit, their flavour
and agreeable acidity being well preserved when they are simply
spread on dishes or hamper-lids, and slowly dried.* Throw
aside the bruised and decayed fruit, and arrange the remainder
singly, and with the stalks uppermost on the dishes. The
Kentish cherries are best for the purpose, but Morellas also
answer for it excellently. The former are sometimes stoned, —
and simmered until quite tender in their own juice, before they
are dried; but this is scarcely an improvement on the more -
usual method of leaving them entire.

_ © The dishes on which they are laid should be changed daily. bid

CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. ae

¥ MORELLA CHERRIES.

__ Take off the stalks but do not stone the fruit; weigh and add

to it an equal quantity of the best sugar reduced quite to pow-
der, strew it over the cherries and let them stand for half an
hour ; then turn them gently into a preserving-pan, and simmer
them softly from five to seven minutes. a

COMMON CHERRY CHEESE.

_ Stone the fruit, or if this trouble be objected to, bruise and
boil it without, until it is sufficiently tender to press. through
a sieve, which it will be in from twenty to thirty minutes.
Weigh the pulp in this case, and boil it quickly to a dry paste,
then stir to it six ounces of sugar for the pound of fruit, and
when this is dissolved, place the pan again over, but not upon,
a brisk fire, and stir the preserve without ceasing, until it is
so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched; then press
it. immediately into small moulds or pans, and turn it from
them when wanted for table. When the cherries have been
stoned, a good common preserve may be made of them without
passing them through a sieve, with the addition of five ounces
of sugar to the pound of fruit, which must be boiled very dry
both before and after it is added.

- Kentish -or Flemish cherries without stoning: 20 to 30
minutes. Passed through a sieve. To each pound of pulp
(first boiled dry), 6 ozs. sugar.. To each pound of cherries.
stoned and boiled to dry paste, 5 ozs. sugar.

CHERRY PASTE. (FRENCH.)

Stone the cherries; boil them gently in their own juice for
thirty minutes ; press the whole through a sieve; reduce it to
a very dry paste; then take it from the fire, and weigh it ; boil
an equal proportion of sugar to the candying point; mix the
fruit with it; and stir the paste, without intermission, over a
moderate fire, until it is again so dry as to form a ball round
the spoon, and to quit the preserving-pan entirely ; press it
quickly into small moulds, and when it is cold, paper, and store
it like other preserves. .

STRAWBERRY JAM.

Strip the stalks from some fine scarlet strawberries, weigh,
and boil them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them very con-
stantly stirred; throw in eight ounces of good sugar, beaten
small, to the pound of fruit; mix them well off the fire, then

AT6 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XXIo

boil the preserve again quickly for twenty-five minutes. " One

pound of white currant-juice added in the first instance to four -

of the strawberries, will greatly improve this preserve, which
will be quite firm, and sufficiently, but not over sweet.

Strawberries, 6 lbs.: 35 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 25 minutes.
Or: strawberries, 4 lbs.; currant-juice, 1 lb.:; 30 to 35 minutes.
Sugar, 2} lbs.: 25 minutes.

Obs.—We do not think it needful to give directions with
each separate receipt for skimming the preserve with care, and
keeping it constantly stirred, but neither should in any case be
neglected. .

STRAWBERRY JELLY.

This, when made with fine, full-flavoured, scarlet straw-
berries, is a very delicious preserve, and is by many persons
preferred to guava jelly, which it greatly resembles. Stalk
the fruit, bruise it very slightly, and stir it for a few minutes
over a.gentle fire ; strain it without pressure, weigh, and boil it
quickly for twenty minutes in a German enamelled stewpan,
or preserving-pan, if possible, that the colour may not be
injured; take it from the fire, and stir into it twelve ounces
of sugar to the pound of juice; when this is dissolved, boil it
again quickly for twenty minutes, clear it perfectly from scum,
and pour it into jars or glasses. ‘The preserve will be firmer,
and require less boiling, if one fourth of red or white currant-
juice be mixed with that of the strawberries, but the flavour
will not then be quite so perfect. A superior jelly to this is
made by taking an equal weight of juice and sugar, and by
boiling the latter to candy height, before the juice (which
should previously be boiled five minutes) is added to it; and
when they have been stirred together off the fire until this is
entirely dissolved, boiling the whole quickly from ten to twenty
minutes; the time required varying very much from the diffe-
rence which is found in the quality of the fruit.

Fruit, simmered 4 to 5 minutes. Juice of strawberries,
4 lbs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 20 minutes. Or: juice of
strawberries, 4lbs.: 5 minutes. Sugar, boiled to candy height,
4 lbs.: 10 to 20 minutes. . .

ANOTHER VERY FINE STRAWBERRY JELLY.

Express the juice from the fruit through a cloth, strain it
clear, weigh, and stir to if an equal proportion of the finest
sugar, dried and reduced to powder; when this is dissolved,
place the preserving-pan over a very clear fire, and stir the

CHAP. XXI. | | PRESERVES. AT?

jelly often until it boils; clear it carefully from scum, and boil
it quickly from fifteen to twenty-five minutes.
Equal weight of strawberry-juice and sugar: 15 to 25
minutes. :
Obs.—This receipt is for a moderate quantity of the pre-
serve : a very small portion will require much less time.

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES, FOR CREAMS ©
- OR ICES, WITHOUT BOILING.

Let the fruit be gathered in the middle of a warm day, in
very dry weather ; strip it from the stalks directly, weigh it,
turn it into a bowl or deep pan, and mix with it an equal
weight of fine dry sifted sugar, and put it immediately
into small, wide-necked bottles ; cork these firmly without
delay, and tie bladder over the tops. Keep them in a
cool place, or the fruit will ferment. The mixture should be
stirred softly, and only just sufficiently to blend the sugar and
the fruit. ‘The bottles must be perfectly dry, and the bladders,
after having been cleaned in the usual way, and allowed to
become nearly so, should be moistened with a little spirit on
the side which is to be next to the cork. Unless these pre-
cautions be observed, there will be some danger of the whole
being spoiled.

Equal weight of fruit and sugar. |

RASPBERRY JAM.

Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds
of ripe, and freshly-gathered raspberries, and boil them over a
brisk fire for twenty-five minutes ; stir to them half their weight
of good sugar, roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved,
boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes, keeping it well stirred
and skimmed. When a richer jam is wished for, add to the
fruit at first its full weight of sugar, and boil them together
twenty minutes.

Raspberries, 6 lbs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes. »

GOOD RED OR WHITE RASPBERRY JAM.

Boil quickly, for twenty minutes, four pounds of either red
or white sound ripe raspberries in a pound and a half of cur-
rant-juice of the same colour; take the pan from the fire, stir
in three pounds of sugar, and when it is dissolved, place the
pan again over the fire, and continue the boiling for ten minutes
longer: keep the preserve well skimmed and stirred from the
beginning, | : |

478 MODERN COOKERY. * ([cHAP. XxXI.
%

Raspberries, 4 Ibs. ; currant-juice, 14 1b.: 20 minntes. Sugar,
3 Ibs.: 10 minutes.

RASPBERRY JELLY FOR FLAVOURING CREAMS.

Take the stalks from some quite ripe, and freshly-gathered
raspberries, stir them over the fire until they render their juice
freely, then strain and weigh it ; or press it from them through
a cloth, and’then strain it clear; in either case boil it for five
minutes after it is weighed, and for each pound stir in a pound
and a quarter of good sugar, reduced quite to powder, sifted,
and made very hot; boil the preserve quickly for five minutes
longer, and skim it clean. ‘The jelly thus made will sufficiently
sweeten the creams without any additional sugar.

Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs.: 5 minutes. Sugar, made hot,
5 lbs.: 5 minutes. . '

ANOTHER RASPBERRY JELLY.
(Very good.) :

Bruise the fruit a duttle, and draw the juice from it by four
or five minutes gentle simmering; strain and weigh it; boil it
quickly for twenty minutes, draw it from the fire, add three
quarters of a pound of good sugar for each pound of juice, and
when this is dissolved place the pan again on the fire, and boil
the preserve fast from twelve to fifteen minutes longer; skim
it thoroughly, and keep it well stirred. This jelly is infinitely
‘improved in colour and in firmness, though not perhaps in
flavour, by mixing with the raspberry juice one fourth, or even
as much as a third, of the juice of ripe- white currants : the pre-
serve will then require rather less boiling. When it jellies in
falling from the spoon or skimmer, it is done. Nothing of tin
or iron should be used in making it, as these metals will
convert its fine red colour into a dull purple.

Fruit, simmered 5 to 6 minutes, Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs. :
20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 12 to 15 minutes. Or: juice of
raspberries, 4 lbs.; juice of white currants, 2 lbs.: 20 minutes.
Sugar, 43 lbs.: 10 minutes, or less.

GREEN CURRANT JAM.

For each pound of currants take fourteen ounces of good
sugar, in fine powder ; bruise part “Of the fruit with a small
portion of the sugar, and put it first into the preserving-pan,
that the juice may flow from.jit sufficiently to prevent the
remainder from being burned: it should be placed over a very |
gentle fire, and stirred constantly until it has yielded moisture

sa cs . 4 Tike, r a a

—_

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 479

enough for this. All the fruit and sugar may then be added,
and the whole (well mixed and stirred) boiled from ten to fif-
teen minutes, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the
skimmer. Some fruit will require less time, and some rather
more.

To each pound of currants, stripped from stalks, 14 0zs. of
sugar: 10 to 15 minutes,

RED CURRANT JELLY.

With three parts of fine ripe red currants, freshly gathered,
and stripped from the stalks, mix one of white currants; put
them into a clean preserving-pan, and stir them gently over a
clear fire until the juice flows from them freely; then turn
them into a fine hair-sieve, and let them drain well, but without
pressure. Pass the juice through a folded muslin or a jelly-bag,
weigh it, and then boil it fast for a quarter of an hour; add for
each pound, eight ounces of sugar coarsely powdered, stir this
to it off the fire until it is dissolved, give the jelly eight minutes
more of quick boiling, and pour it out. It will be firm, and of
excellent colour and flavour. Be sure to clear off the scum as
it rises, both before and after the sugar is put in, or the preserve
will not be clear. ,

Juice of red currants, 3 lbs.; juice of white currants, 1 lb.:
15 minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs.: 8 minutes.

Obs.—An excellent jelly may be made with equal parts of
the juice of red and of white currants, and of raspberries, with
the same proportion of sugar and degree of boiling as in the
foregoing receipt. |

SUPERLATIVE RED CURRANT JELLY.
(Norman Receipt )

Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants of the
finest quality, and mix -with them an equal weight of good sugar
reduced to powder ; boil these together quickly for exactly eight
minutes, keep them stirred all the time, and clear off the scum
as it rises; then turn the preserve into a very clean sieve, and
put into small jars the jelly which runs through it, and which
will ‘be delicious in flavour, and of the brightest colour. It
should be carried immediately, when this is practicable, to an
extremely cool but not a damp place, and left there until perfectly
cold. The currants which remain in the sieve make an excellent
jam, particularly if only part of the jelly be taken from them.
In Normandy, where the fruit is of richer quality than in

a ©

. ee ae 4 Bie
14
ng

. 480 MODERN COOKERY. ‘[euar. xxi

England, this preserve is boiled only one minute, and is both
firm and beautifully transparent.
Currants, 3 lbs.; sugar, 3 lbs.: 8 minutes.

FRENCH CURRANT JELLY.

Mix one third of white currants with two of red, and stir
them over a gentie fire until they render their juice freely;
pour it from them, strain and weigh it; for every four pounds
break three of fine sugar into large lumps, just dip them ‘into
cold water, and when they are nearly dissolved boil them to a
thick syrup; stir this without ceasing until it falls in large

thick white masses from the skimmer; then pour in the.

currant juice immediately, and when the sugar is again dis-
solved, boil the whole quickly for five minutes, clear off the
scum perfectly, pour the jelly into jars or warm glasses, and set
it in a cool place.

Red currants, two thirds; white currants, one third; juice,
4 lbs.; sugar boiled to candy height, 3 lbs.: jelly boiled, 5
minutes.

Obs.—A flavouring of raspberries is usually given to currant
jelly in France, the preserve being there never served with any
kind of joint, as it is with us.

DELICIOUS RED CURRANT JAM.

This, which is but an indifferent preserve when made in the
usual way, will be found a very fine one if the following direc-
tions for it be observed; it will be extremely transparent and
bright in colour, and will retain perfectly the flavour of the
fruit. Take the currants at the height of their season, the
finest that can be had, free from dust, but gathered on a dry
day ; strip them with great care from the stalks, weigh and
put them into a preserving-pan with three pounds of the best
‘sugar reduced to powder, to four pounds of the fruit; stir them
gently over a brisk clear fire, and boil them quickly for exactly
eight minutes from the first full boil. As the jam is apt to rise
over the top of the pan, it is better not to fill it more than two
thirds, and if this precaution should not be sufficient to prevent
it, it must be lifted from the fire and held away for an instant.
To many tastes, a still finer jam than this (which we find suffi-
ciently sweet) may be made with an -eqnal weight of fruit and

sugar boiled together for seven minutes. There should be.

great exactness with respect to the time, as both the flavour

and the brilliant colour of the preserve will be injured by

longer boiling. :
f

Se a

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES, 481

Red currants (without stalks), 4 Ibs.; fine sugar, 3 Ibs.:
boiled quickly, 8 minutes. Or, equal weight fruit and sugar:
7 minutes.

VERY FINE WHITE CURRANT JELLY.

The fruit for this jelly should be very white, perfectly free
from dust, and picked carefully from the stalks. To every
ound add eighteen ounces of double refined sifted sugar, and
oil them together quickly for six minutes ; throw in the strained
juice of a sound fresh lemon, or of two, should the quantity of
preserve be large; boil it two minutes longer; pour it into a
delicately clean sieve, and finish it by the directions given for
the Norman red currant jelly (page 479).
White currants, 6 lbs.; highly refined sugar, 62 lbs.: 6
minutes. Juice of 2 moderate-sized lemons: 2 minutes.

WHITE CURRANT JAM, A BEAUTIFUL PRESERVE.

Boil together quickly for seven minutes an equal weight of
fine white currants, picked with the greatest nicety, and of the
best sugar pounded and passed through a sieve. Stir the
preserve gently the whole time, and be careful to skim it
thoroughly. Just before it is taken from the fire throw in
the strained juice of one good lemon to four pounds of the
fruit.

White currants, 4 lbs.; best sugar, 4 lbs.: 7 minutes. Juice
1 lemon.

CURRANT PASTE.

Stalk and heat some red currants as for jelly, pour off three
parts of the juice, which can be used for that preserve, and
press the remainder, with the pulp of the fruit, closely through
a hair-sieve reversed; boil it briskly, keeping it stirred the
whole time, until it forms a dry. paste; then for each pound
(when first weighed) add seven ounces of pounded sugar, and
boil the whole from twenty-five to thirty minutes longer, taking
care that it shall not burn. This paste is remarkably pleasant
and refreshing in cases of fever, and acceptable usually for
winter-desserts. ;

Red currants boiled from 5 to 7 minutes, pressed with one
fourth of their juice through a sieve, boiled from 14 to
2 hours. To each pound add 7 ozs. pounded sugar: 25 to 30

minutes.
Obs.—Confectioners. add the pulp, after it is boiled dry, to

If K

482 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI.

an equal weight of sugar at the candy height: by making
trial of the two methods, the reader can decide on the better
one. .

FINE BLACK CURRANT JELLY.

Stir some black currants over the fire until they have

yielded their juice; strain, weigh, and boil it for twenty
minutes; add to it three pounds and a half of sifted
sugar of good quality, made quite hot, and when it is dis-
solved boil the jelly for five minutes only, clearing off the
scum with care. This, though an excellent preserve, is too
sweet for our own taste, and we think one made with less sugar
likely to be more acceptable in cases of indisposition generally.

Juice of black currants, 4 1bs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 3} lbs.:
5 minutes.’

COMMON BLACK CURRANT JELLY. °

Boil from three to six pounds of the juice rapidly for twenty
minutes, stirring it well; then mix with it off the fire, half a
pound of sugar for each pound of juice, and continue the boil-
ing for ten minutes. ot

Juice of black currants, 3 to 6 Ibs.: 20 minutes. To each
_pound juice 3 lb. good sugar: 10 minutes.

Obs.—This jelly may be made with Lisbon sugar, but will
then require rather more boiling.

BLACK CURRANT JAM.

To six pounds of the fruit, stripped carefully from the stalks,
add four pounds and a half of sugar. Let them heat gently,
but as soon as the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly
for fifteen minutes. A more common kind of jam may be made
by boiling the fruit by itself from ten to fifteen minutes, and for
ten minutes after half its weight of sugar has been added to it.

Black currants, 6 lbs.; sugar, 44 lbs.: 15 minutes. Or:
fruit, 6 Ibs.: 10 to 15 minutes. Sugar, 3 Ibs.: 10 minutes.

Obs.—There are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and
so useful in illness as those of black currants, and it is therefore
advisable always to have a store of them, and to have them well
and carefully made.

NURSERY PRESERVE.

_ Take the stones from a couple of pounds of Kentish cherrics,
and boil them twenty minutes; then add to them a pound and

a half of raspberries, and an equal quantity of red and of —

CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES, 483,

white currants, all weighed after they have been cleared from -
their stems. Boil these together briskly for twenty minutes;
mix with them three pounds and a quarter of common sugar,
and give the preserve fifteen minutes more of quick boiling. A
pound and a half of gooseberries may be substituted for the
cherries ; but they will not require any stewing before they are
added to the other fruits. The jam must be well stirred from ©
the beginning, or it will burn to the pan.

Kentish cherries, 2 Ibs.: 20 minutes. Raspberries, red cur-
rants, and white currants, of each 13 lb.: 20 minutes. Sugar,
34 lbs.: 15 minutes. ee

ANOTHER GOOD COMMON PRESERVE.

Boil together, in equal or in unequal portions (for this is
immaterial), any kinds of early fruit, until they can be pressed
through a sieve; weigh, and then boil the pulp over a brisk
fire for half an hour ; add half a pound of sugar for each pound
of fruit, and again boil the preserve quickly, keeping it well
stirred and skimmed, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Cherries, .
unless they be morellas, must first be stewed tender apart, as —
they will require a much longer time to make them so than
any other of the first summer fruits.

A GOOD MELANGE, OR MIXED PRESERVE.

Boil for three quarters of an hour in two pounds of clear red
gooseberry juice, one pound of very ripe greengages, weighed
after they have been pared and stoned; then stir to them one
pound and a half of good sugar, and boil them quickly again for
twenty minutes. If the quantity of preserve be much increased,
the time of boiling it must be so likewise: this is always better
done before the sugar is added. ;

Juice of ripe gooseberries, 2 lbs.; greengages, pared and
stoned, 1 lb.: ? hour. Sugar, 1} lb.: 20 minutes.

GROSEILLEE.
(Another good preserve.)

‘Cut the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of well-fia-
voured ripe gooseberries, throw them into a large preserving-
pan, boil them for ten minutes, and stir them often with a
wooden spoon; then pass both the juice and pulp through a
fine sieve, and to every three pounds’ weight of these add half
a pint of raspberry-juice, and boil the whole briskly for three
quarters of an hour; draw the pan aside, stir in for the above

484 MODERN COOKERY. [LcHAP. XXI. —

portion of fruit, two pounds of sugar, and when it is dissolved
renew the boiling for fifteen minutes longer. |

Ripe gooseberries, boiled 10 minutes. Pulp and juice of
gooseberries, 6 lbs. ; raspberry-juice, 1 pint: ? hour. Sugar,
4 lbs.: 15 minutes.

Obs.—When more convenient, a portion of raspberries can
be boiled with the gooseberries at first.

A FINE PRESERVE OF THE GREEN ORANGE PLUM.
(Sometimes called the Stonewood plum.).

This fruit, which is very insipid when ripe, makes an excel-
lent preserve if used when at its full growth, but while it is still
quite hard and green. Take off the stalks, weigh the plums,
then gash them well (with a silver knife, if convenient) as they
are thrown into the preserving pan, and keep them stirred with-
out ceasing, over a moderate fire, until they have yielded suffi-
cient juice to prevent their burning; after this, boil them
quickly until the stones are entirely detached from the flesh of
the fruit. Take them out as they appear on the surface, and
when the preserve looks quite smooth and is well reduced, stir
in three quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to powder, for each
pound of the plums, and boil the whole very quickly for half
an hour or more. Put it, when done, into small moulds or pans,
and it will be sufficiently firm when cold to turn out well: it
will also.be transparent, of a fine green colour, and very agree-
able to the taste.

Orange plums, when green, 6 lbs. : 40 to 60 minutes. Sugar,
4} lbs, : 30 to 50 minutes. .

* Obs.—The blanched kernels of part of the fruit should be

‘added to this preserve a few minutes before it is poured out:
if too long boiled in it they will become tough. They should
always be wiped very dry after they are blanched.

GREENGAGE JAM, OR MARMALADE.

When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins,
stone, weigh, and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty
minutes, keeping them well stirred; then to every four pounds
add three of good sugar reduced quite to powder, boil the
preserve from five to eight minutes longer, and clear off the
scum perfectly before it is poured into the jars. When the
flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the stones, weigh
and throw the plums whole into the preserving pan, boil them
to a pulp, pass them through a sieve, and deduct the weight of
the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to the jam,

CHAP. XXI. |. PRESERVES. 485

The Orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in this
receipt.

Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs.: 50 minutes. Sugar,
4} Ibs.: 5 to 8 minutes.

PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM.

Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes ; stir to
them half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it
is dissolved continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and
skim the preserve carefully during the time. This is an excel-
lent marmalade, but it may be rendered richer by increasing the
proportion of sugar. The blanched kernels of a portion of the
fruit stones will much improve its flavour, but they should be
mixed with it only two or three minutes before it is taken from
the fire. When these plums are not entirely ripe, it is difficult
to free them from the stones and skins: they should then be
boiled down and pressed through a sieve, as directed for green-
- gages, in the receipt above.

Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Su-
gar, 3 lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.

TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP.

Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks or stones; take
their weight of dry sifted sugar, lay them into a deep dish or bow],
and strew it over them; let them remain thus for a night, then
pour them gently into a preserving pan, with all the sugar,
heat them slowly, and let them just simmer for five minutes ; in
a couple of days repeat the process, and do so again and again at,
an interval of two or three days, until the fruit is tender and
very clear; put it then into jars, and keep it in the syrup, or
drain and dry the plums very gradually, as directed for other
fruit. When they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part
from them readily, they must be covered with spring water,
placed over a slow fire, and just scalded until it can be stripped
from them easily.

MUSSEL PLUM CHEESE AND JELLY.

Fill large stone jars with the fruit, which should be ripe, dry,
and sound; set them into an oven from which the bread has
‘been drawn several hours, and let them remain all night; or, if
this cannot conveniently be done, place them in pans of water,
and boil them gently until the plums are tender, and have

486 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI.

yielded their juice to the utmost. Pour this from them, strain
it through a jelly bag, weigh, and then boil it rapidly for
twenty-five minutes. Have ready, broken small, three pounds
of sugar for four of the juice, stir them together until it is dis-
solved, and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes
longer, and be careful to remove all the scum. Pour the pre-
serve into small moulds or pans, and turn it out when it is
wanted for table: it will be very fine, both in colour and in
flavour.

Juice of plums, 4 Ibs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 mi-
nutes.

The cheese.—Skin and stone the plums from which the juice
has been poured, and after having weighed, boil them an hour
and a quarter over a brisk fire, and stir them constantly ; then
to three pounds of fruit add one of sugar, beaten to powder ;
boil the preserve for another half hour, and press it into shallow
pans or moulds.

Plums, 3 lbs.: 14 hour. Sugar, 1 lb.: 30 minutes.

APRICOT MARMALADE.

This may be made either by the receipt for greengage, or —
Mogul plum marmalade; or the fruit may first be boiled quite
tender, then rubbed through a sieve, and mixed with three
quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of apricots: from
twenty to thirty minutes will boil it in this case. A richer pre-
serve still is produced by taking off the skins, and dividing the
plums in halves or quarters, and leaving them for some hours,
with their weight of fine sugar strewed over them before they
are placed on the fire; they are then heated slowly, and gently
simmered for about half an hour.

TO DRY APRICOTS.
(A quick and easy method.)

Wipe gently, split, and stone some fine apricots, which are
not over-ripe ; weigh, and arrange them evenly in a deep dish
or bowl, and strew in fourteen ounces of sugar, in fine powder,
to each pound of fruit; on the following day turn the whole
carefully into a preserving-pan, let the apricots heat slowly, and
simmer them very softly for six minutes, or for an instant longer,
should they not in that time be quite tender. Let them remain

in the syrup for a day or two, then drain and spread them singly
on dishes to dry.

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 487

_ To each pound apricots, 14 ozs. of sugar; to stand 1 night,
to be simmered from 6 to 8 minutes, and left in syrup 2 or 3
days.

DRIED APRICOTS.
(French Receipt.)

Take apricots which have attained their full growth and’
colour, but before they begin to soften ; weigh, and wipe them
lightly ; make a small incision across the top of each plum, pass
the point of a knife through the stalk end, and gently push out
the stones without breaking the fruit; next, put the apricots
into a preserving-pan, with plenty of cold water, place it over a
moderate fire, and when it begins to boil, should the apricots
be quite tender, lift them out and throw them into more cold
water, but simmer them, otherwise, until they are so. Take
the same weight of sugar that there was of the fruit before it
was stoned, and boil it for ten minutes with a quart of water to
the four pounds; skim the syrup carefully, throw in the apricots
(which should previously be well drained on a soft cloth, or on
a.sieve), simmer them for one minute, and set them by in it
until the following day, then drain it from them, boil it for ten
minutes, and pour it on them.the instant it is taken from the
fire; in forty-eight hours repeat the process, and when the syrup
has boiled ten minutes, put in the apricots, and simmer them
from two to four minutes, or until they look quite clear. They ,
may be stored in the syrup until wanted for drying, or drained
from it, laid separately on slates or dishes, and dried very gra-
dually: the blanched kernels may be put inside the fruit, or
added to the syrup.

Apricots, 4 lbs., scalded until tender; sugar, 4 lbs.; water,
1 quart: 10 minutes. Apricots, in syrup, 1 minute; left 24
hours. Syrup, boiled again, 10 minutes, and poured on fruit :
stand 2 days. * Syrup, boiled again, 10 minutes, and apricots
2 to 4 minutes, or until clear. :

Obs.—The syrup should be quite thick when the apricots
are put in for the last time; but both fruit and sugar vary so
much in quality, and in the degree of boiling which they
require, that no invariable rule can be given for the latter.
The apricot syrup strained very clear, and mixed with twice
its measure of pale French brandy, makes an agreeable liqueur, ©
which is much improved by infusing in it for a few days half
an ounce of the fruit-kernels, blanched and bruised, to the
quart of liquor. ;

We have found that cherries prepared by either of the

488 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI.°

receipts which we have given for preserving them with sugar, |
if thrown into the apricot syrup when partially dried, just
scalded in it, and left for a fortnight, then drained and dried
as usual, become a delicious sweetmeat. Mussel, imperatrice,
or any other plums, when quite ripe, if simmered in it very
gently until they are tender, and left for a few days to imbibe
its flavour, then drained and finished as usual, are likewise
excellent.

PEACH JAM, OR MARMALADE.

The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, -

should be finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly
sound. Pare, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for three quar-
ters of an hour, and do not fail to stir it often during the time;
draw it from the fire, and mix with it ten ounces of well-refined
sugar, rolled or beaten to powder, for each pound of the peaches; —
clear it carefully from scum, and boil it briskly for five minutes ;
- throw in the strained juice of one or two good lemons; continue
the boiling for three minutes only, and pour out the marma-
lade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit, add
the blanched kernels of part of the peaches.

Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs.; # hour. Sugar, 23 lbs.:
2 minutes. Blanched peach-kernels: 3 minutes. Juice of 2
small lemons: 3 minutes.

Obs.—This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing
the fruit through a sieve after it has been partially boiled.
Nothing can be finer than its flavour, which would be injured
by adding the sugar at first; and a larger proportion renders
it cloyingly sweet. Nectarines and peaches mixed, make an
admirable preserve.

TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES.
(An easy and excellent Receipt.)

The fruit should ‘be fine, freshly gathered, and fully ripe,
but still in its perfection. Pare, halve, and weigh it after the
stones are removed; lay it into a deep dish, and strew over it
an equal weight of highly refined pounded sugar; let it remain
until this is nearly dissolved, then lift the fruit gently into a
preserving pan, pour the juice and sugar to it, and heat the
whole over a very slow fire; let it just simmer for ten minutes,
then turn it softly into a bowl, and let it remain a couple of
days; repeat the slow heating and simmering at intervals of
two or three days, until the fruit is quite clear, when it may be
potted in the syrup, or drained from it, and dried upon large

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 489

clean slates or dishes, or upon wire-sieves. The flavour will be
_ excellent. ‘The strained juice of a lemon may be added to the
syrup, with good effect, towards the end of the process, and an
additional ounce or two of sugar allowed for it.

DAMSON JAM. (VERY GOOD.)

The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite
ripe. Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes;
then stir in half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered,
and when it is dissolved, give the preserve fifteen minutes addi-
tional boiling, keeping it stirred, and thoroughly skimmed.

Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 15
minutes.

Obs.—A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excel-
lent without.

DAMSON JELLY.

Bake separately in a very slow oven, or boil in a water-bath
(see page 467), any number of fine ripe damsons, and one third
the quantity of bullaces, or of any other pale plums, as a portion
of their juice will, to most tastes, improve, by softening the
flavour of the preserve, and will render the colour brighter.
Pour off the juice clear from the fruit, strain and weigh it;
boil it quickly without sugar for twenty-five minutes, draw it
from the fire, stir into it ten ounces of good sugar for each
pound of juice, and boil it quickly from six.to ten minutes
longer, carefully clearing off all the scum. The jelly must
be often stirred before the sugar is added, and constantly after-
wards.

DAMSON SOLID. (Goop.)

Pour the juice from some damsons which have stood for
‘a night in a very cool oven, or been stewed in a jar placed in
a pan of water; weigh and put it into a preserving pan with
a pound and four ounces of pearmains (or of any other fine
boiling apples), pared, cored, and quartered, to each pound of
the juice; boil these together, keeping them well stirred, from
twenty-five to thirty minutes, then add the sugar, and when
it is nearly dissolved, continue the boiling for ten minutes.
This, if done with exactness, will give a perfectly smooth and
firm preserve, which may be moulded in small shapes, and
turned out for table.

To each pound clear damson-juice, 1} Ib. pearmains (or other

490 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI.

good apples), pared and cored: 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14
ozs.: 10 minutes.

EXCELLENT DAMSON CHEESE.

When the fruit has been baked or stewed tender, as directed
above, drain off the juice, skin and stone the damsons, pour
back to them from a third to half of their juice, weigh, and
then boil them over a clear brisk fire until they form a quite
dry paste; add six ounces of pounded sugar for each pound of
' the plums; stir them off the fire until this is dissolved, and
boil the preserve again without quitting or ceasing to stir it,
until it leaves the pan quite dry, and adheres in a mass to the
spoon. If it should not stick to the fingers when lightly
touched, it will be sufficiently done to keep very long; press it
quickly into pans or moulds; lay on it a paper dipped in spirit
when it is perfectly cold; tie another fold over it, and store it in
a dry place..

ipa

Bullace cheese is made in the same manner, and almost any ©

_ kind of plum will make an agreeable preserve of the sort.

To each pound of fruit, pared, stoned, and mixed with the
juice, and boiled quite dry, 6 ozs. of pounded sugar: boiled
again to a dry paste. |

GRAPE JELLY.

Strip from their stalks some fine ripe black-cluster grapes,
and stir them with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until all
have burst, and the juice flows freely from them; strain it off
without pressure, and pass it through a jelly-bag, or through a
twice folded muslin ; weigh and then boil it rapidly for twenty

minutes ; draw it from the fire, stir in it until dissolved, fourteen’

ounces of good sugar, roughly powdered, to each pound of
juice, and boil the jelly quickly for fifteen minutes longer,
keeping it constantly stirred, and perfectly well skimmed. It
will be very clear, and of a beautiful pale rose-colour.

Juice of black-cluster grapes: 20 minutes. To each pound

of juice, 14 ozs. good sugar: 15 minutes.

Obs.—We have proved this jelly only with the kind of grape
which we have named, but there is little doubt that fine purple
grapes of any sort would answer for it well.

ENGLISH GUAVA. i

Strip the stalks from a gallon or two of the large kind of
bullaces called the shepherd’s bullace ; give part of them a cut,
put them into stone jars, and throw into one of them a pound or

= |
:

;
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5

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 491

two of imperatrice plums, if they can be obtained; put the jars
into pans of water, and boil them as directed at page 467; then
drain off the juice, pass it through a thick strainer or jelly-bag,
and weigh it; boil it quickly from fifteen to twenty minutes ;
take it from the fire, and stir in it till dissolved three quarters
of a pound of sugar to the pound of juice; remove the scum
with care, and boil the preserve again quickly from eight to-
twelve minutes, or longer should it not then jelly firmly on the
skimmer. When the fruit is very acid, an equal weight of
juicegn sugar may be mixed together in the first instance, and
boiled briskly for about twenty minutes. It is impossible to
indicate the precise time which the jelly will require, so much
depends on the quality of the plums, and on the degree of
boiling previously given to them in the water-bath. When
properly made it is remarkably transparent and very firm. It
should be poured into shallow pans or small moulds, and turned
from them before it is served. When the imperatrice plum
cannot be procured, any other that will give a pale red colour
to the juice will answer. The bullaces alone make an admir-
able preserve ; and even the commoner kinds afford an excellent
one.

Juice of the shepherd’s bullace and imperatrice, or other red
plum, 4 lbs.: 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 8 to 12
minutes. Or juice of bullaces and sugar, equal weight: 20
minutes.

Obs.—After the juice has been poured from the plums they
may be stoned, pared, weighed, and boiled to a paste; then six
ounces of sugar added to the pound, and the boiling continued
until the preserve is again very dry: asmall portion of the juice
should be left with the fruit for this.

VERY FINE IMPERATRICE-PLUM MARMALADE.

Weigh six pounds of the fruit when it is quite ripe, but
before the frost has touched it; give each plum a cut as it is
thrown into the preserving pan, and when all are done boil
them from thirty-five to forty minutes, taking out the stones as
they rise to the surface, when they are quite detached from
the flesh of the fruit. Draw back the pan from the fire, stir
in two pounds of good sugar beaten to powder, and boil the
preserve quickly for fifteen minutes. The imperatrice plum is
of itself so sweet that this proportion of sugar makes with it a —
very rich preserve.

Imperatrice plums (without the stalks) 6 Ibs.: boiled 35 to

492 MODERN COOKERY. [oHaP. XXI.

40 minutes. Sugar 2 Ibs. (added after the stones are out): 15.

minutes.

Obs.—Some slight trouble would be avoided by pressing the
fruit through a sieve after the first boiling; but we do not think
the marmalade would be improved by being freed from the
skins of the plums. , .

can

TO DRY IMPERATRICE PLUMS.
(An easy method.)

Put them into jars, or wide-necked bottles, with half a pound

_ of good sugar, rolled or pounded, to twice the weight of fruit;

set them into a very cool oven for four or five hours; or, if -

more convenient, place them, with a little hay between them,
in a pan: of cold water, and boil them gently for rather more
than three hours. Leave them in the syrup for a few days,
and finish them as directed for the drying of other fruits. Tie
a bladder over the necks of the jars or bottles before they are
placed in ‘the pan of water, and fasten two or three folds of
paper over the former, or cork the bottles when the fruit is to

be baked. The sugar should be put in after the fruit, without —

being shaken down; it will then dissolve gradually, and be
absorbed by it equally.

To each pound of plums, 8 ounces pounded sugar: baked in
cool oven 4 or 5 hours, or steamed 3 hours.

TO BOTTLE FRUIT FOR WINTER USE.

Gather the fruit in the middle of the day in very dry weather;
_ strip off the stalks, and have in readiness some perfectly clean
and dry wide-necked bottles; turn each of these the instant
before it is filled, with the neck downwards, and hold in it two
or three lighted matches; drop in the fruit before the vapour
escapes, shake it gently down, press in some new corks, dip the
necks of the bottles into melted rosin, set them at night into an
oven from which the bread has been drawn six or seven hours
at least, and let them remain until the morning: if the heat be
too great the bottles will. burst. Currants, cherries, damsons,
greengages, and various other kinds of plums will remain

good for quite twelve months when bottled thus, if stored in a ~

dry place. .

To steam the fruit, put the bottles into a copper or other
vessel up to their necks in cold water, with a little hay between
and under them ; light the fire, let the. water heat slowly, and
keep it at the point of gentle simmering until the fruit is suffi-

‘ciently scalded. Some kinds will of course require a much ~

aia | .. ie

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 493

longer time than others. From: half to three quarters of an
hour will be sufficient for gooseberries, currants, and rasp-
berries ; but the appearance of all will best denote their being
done. When they have sunk almost half the depth of the
bottles, and the skins are shrivelled, extinguish the fire, but
leave them in the water until it is quite cold; then wipe and
store the bottles in a dry place. A bit of moistened bladder
tied over the corks is better than the rosin when the fruit. is
steamed.
b APPLE JELLY.

‘Various kinds of apples may be used successfully to make
this jelly, but the nonsuch is by many persons preferred to all
others for the purpose. The Ripstone pippin, however, may be
used for it with very good effect, either solely, or with a mix-
ture of pearmains. It is necessary only that the fruit should
be finely flavoured, and that it should boil easily to a mar-
malade. Pare, core, quarter, and weigh it quickly that it may
not lose its colour, and to each pound pour a pint of cold water,
and boil it until it is well broken, without being reduced to
a quite thick pulp, as it would then be difficult to render the
juice perfectly clear, which it ought to be. Drain this well
from the apples, either through a fine sieve or a folded muslin
strainer, and pass it afterwards through a jelly-bag, or turn the
fruit at once into the last of these, and pour the liquid through
a second time if needful. When it appears quite transparent,
weigh, and reduce it by quick boiling for twenty minutes; draw
it from the fire, add two pounds of sugar, broken very small,
for three of the decoction, stir it till it is entirely dissolved, then
place the preserving-pan again over a clear fire and boil the

preserve quickly for ten minutes, or until it jellies firmly upon

the skimmer when poured from it; throw in the strained juice
of a small lemon for every two pounds of jelly, a couple of
minutes before it is taken from the fire.

Apples, 7 lbs.; water, 7 pints: 4 to full hour. Juice, 6lbs.:
20 minutes quick boiling. Sugar, 4 lbs.: 10 to 25 minutes.
Juice three lemons. )

EXCEEDINGLY FINE APPLE JELLY.

Pare quicklysome highly flavoured juicy apples of any kind, or
of various kinds together, for this is immaterial ; slice, without
dividing them; but first free them from the stalks and eyes; shake
out some of the pips, and put the apples evenly into very clean
large stone jars, just dipping an occasional layer into cold water

—_— * Eee

+. 3

494 MODERN COOKERY. _ [oHap. xx1.

as this is done, the better to preserve the colour of the whole. —
Set the jars into pans of water, and boil the fruit slowly until it
is quite soft, then turn it into a jelly-bag or cloth and let the
juice all drop from it. ‘The quantity which it will have yielded —
will be small, but it will be clear and rich. Weigh, and boil it
for ten minutes, then draw it from the fire, and stir into it,
until it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of good sugar tothe
pound and quarter (or pint) of juice. Place the preserve again
over the fire and stir it without intermission, except to clear off
the scum, until it has boiled from eight to ten minutes longer,
for otherwise it will jelly on the surface with the scum upon.it,
which it will then be difficult to remove, as when touched it will
break and fall into the preserve. The strained juice of one
small fresh lemon to the pint of jelly should be thrown into
it two or three minutes before it is poured out, and the rind of
one or two cut very thin may be simmered in the juice before
the sugar is added; but the pale, delicate colour of the jelly
will be injured by too much of it, and many persons would
altogether prefer the pure flavour of the fruit. se
Juice of apples, 1 quart, or 2) lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 13
lb.: 8 to 10 minutes. Juice, 2 small lemons; rind of 1 or more ~
at pleasure. i
Obs. 1.—The quantity of apples required for it renders this a
rather expensive preserve, where they are not abundant ; but it
is a remarkably fine jelly, and turns out from the moulds in
perfect shape and very firm. It may be served in the second
course, or for dessert. It issometimes made without’paring the _
apples, or dipping them into the water, and the colour is then
a deep red: we have occasionally had a pint of water added to
about a gallon and a half of apples, but the jelly was not then
quite so fine in flavour. ook |
Obs. 2.—The best time for making this apple. jelly is from
the end of November to Christmas. . i. F :
Obs. 3.—Quince jelly would, without doubt, be very fine ;
made by this receipt; but as the juice of that fruit is richer
than that of the apple, a little water might be-added. Alter- _
nate layers of apples and quinces would also answer well, we
: : QUINCE JELLY. __ - . ne
Pare, quarter, core, and aweigh some ripe but quite sound =~
. quinces, as quickly as possible, and throw them as they are done
‘into part of the water in which they are to be boiled, as directed
at page 427; allow one pint of this to each ‘pound of the fruit,
and simmer it gently until it is a little broken, but not solong ~~

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‘
CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 495

- as to redden the juice, which ought to’be very pale. Turn the
whole into a jelly-bag, or strain the liquid through a fine cloth,
and let it drain very closely from it, but without the slightest
pressure. Weigh the juice, put it into a delicately clean pre-
serving pan, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes; take it
from the fire and stir into it, until # is entirely dissolved, twelve
ounces of sugar for each pound of juice, or fourteen ounces if
the fruit should be very acid, which it will be in the earlier part
of the season ; keep it constantly stirred and thoroughly cleared
from scum, from ten to twenty minutes longer, or until it jellies
strongly in falling from the skimmer ; then pour it directly into
glasses or moulds. If properly made, it will be suffieigntly firm
to turn out of the latter, and it will be beautifully transparent,
and rich in flavour. It may be made with an equal weight of
juice and sugar mixed together in the first instance, and boiled
from twenty to thirty minutes. It is difficult to state the time
precisely, because from different causes it will vary very much.
It should be reduced rapidly to the proper point, as long boiling
injures the colour: this.is always more perfectly preserved by
boiling the juice without the sugar first.

To each pound pared and cored quinces, 1 pint water: 2 to 14
hour. Juice, boiled 20 minutes. To each pound, 12 ozs. sugar:
10 to 20 minutes. Or, juice and sugar equal weight: 20 to 30
minutes.

QUINCE MARMALADE.

When to economize the fruit is not an object, pare, core, and
quarter some of the inferior quinces, and boil them in as much
water as will nearly cover them,‘ until they begin to break ;
strain the juice from them, and for the marmalade put half a
pint of it to-each pound of fresh quinces: in preparing these,
be careful to cut out the hard stony parts round the’eores.
Simmer them gently until they are perfectly tender, then press
them, with the juice, through a coarse sieve; put them intoa
perfectly clean pan, and boil them till they form almost a dry
paste ; add for each pound of quinces and the half pint of juice,
three quarters of a pound of sugar, in fine powder, and boil the —
marmalade for half an hour, stirring it gently without ceasing: ”
it will be very firm and bright in colour. If made shortly ©
after the fruit is gathered, a little additional sugar will be ~
- required; and when a richer and less dry marmalade is better
liked, it must be boiled a shorter time, and an .equal weight of
fruit and sugar must be*used. ‘ si |
~ Quinces, pared and cored, 4 lbs. ; prepared juice, 1 quart: 2

ae
Seay

¥ |
.

496 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. Xxt.'
to 3 hours. Boiled fast to dry, 20 to 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.:
30 minutes. ‘

Richer marmalade: quinces, 4 lbs.; juice, 1 quart; sugar,
4 lbs. .

- QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE.

Boil together, from three quarters of an hour to an hour, two
pounds of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured apples, in
an equal weight of prepared quince-juice (see page 427), then
take them from the fire, and mix with them a pound and a half
of sugar, in fine powder ; when this is a little dissolved, set the
pan again over a brisk fire, and boil the preserve for twenty
minutes longer, keeping it stirred all the time.

Prepared quince-juice, 2 Ibs.; apples, 2 Ibs.: 3 to 1 hour.
Sugar, 1} lb,: 20 minutes.

QUINCE PASTE.

If the full flavour of the quinces be desired, stew them suffi-
ciently tender to press through a sieve, in the prepared juice of
page 427; otherwise, in just water enough to about three parts
cover them; when they are soft quite through, lift them out,
let them cool, and then pass them through a sieve; reduce them
to a dry paste, over a very clear fire, and stir them constantly ;
then weigh the fruit, and mix it with an equal proportion of
pounded sugar, or sugar boiled to candy height (we find the
effect nearly the same, whichever method be pursued), and
stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to
quit the pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball; press
it into shallow pans or dishes; cut it, as soon as cold, into small
squares, and, should they seem to require it, dry them with a
very gentle degree of heat, and when they are again cold store
them in tin cases with well-dried foolscap paper between them :
the paste may be moulded, when more convenient, and kept
until it is wanted for table, in a very dry place. In France,
where the fruit is admirably confected, the pate des coigns, or

quince paste, is somewhat less boiled than we have directed,
and dried afterwards in the sun, or in an extremely gentle oven,

in square rims of tin, about an inch and a half deep, placed upon
clean slates. he

JELLY OF SIBERIAN GRABS.

This fruit makes a jelly of beautiful colour, and of pleasant

flavour also; it may be stored in small moulds of ornamental
shape, and turned out for a dessert dish. Take off the stalks,

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 497

‘weigh, and wash the crabs; then, to each pound and a: half,

add a pint of water, and boil them gently until they are broken,

but do not allow them to fall toa pulp. Pour the whole into
a jelly-bag, and when the juice is quite transparent, weigh it,
put it into a clean preserving-pan, boil it quickly for ten
minutes, take it from the fire, and stir in it, until dissolved, ten
ounces of fine sugar, roughly powdered, to each pound of the
juice ; boil the jelly from twelve to fifteen minutes, skim it very
clean, and pour it into the mould. Should the quantity be
large, a few additional minutes boiling must be given to the
juice before the sugar is added.

To each 13 lb. of crabs; water, 1 pint: 12 to 18 minutes.
Juice to be fast boiled, 10 minutes; sugar, to each pound, 10
ozs.:. 12 to 15 minutes.

TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES.

Take the finest barberries, without stones, that can be pro-
cured, tie them together in bunches of four or five sprigs, and
for each half pound of the fruit (which is extremely light), boil
one pound of very good sugar in a pint of water for twenty
minutes, and clear it well from scum ; throw in the fruit, let it
heat gently, and then boil from five to seven minutes, when it
will be perfectly transparent. So long as any snapping noise is
heard, the fruit is not all done; it should be pressed equally
down into the syrup until the whole of the berries have burst ;
it should then be turned into jars, which must be covered with
skin, or with two or three folds of thick paper, as soon as
the preserve is perfectly cold. The barberries thus prepared
make a beautiful garnish for sweet dishes, or for custard-
puddings. » .

Barberries, tied in bunches, 13 lb.; sugar, 3 lbs.; water, 14
pint: 20 minutes. Barberries boiled in syrup: 5 to 7 minutes.

BARBERRY JELLY.

To each pound of barberries, stripped from the stalks, put a

pint and a half of cold water, and boil them for fifteen minutes ;

bruise them with the back of a wooden spoon, pour them into a

hair-sieve or muslin strainer, and pass the juice afterwards

through a jelly-bag. When it appears perfectly clear, weigh,

and then boil it fast for ten minutes; take it from the fire, and

stir into it as many pounds of sugar in fine powder as there

were pounds of juice ; when this is dissolved boil the jelly again
K K

498 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XxI.

for ten minutes, skim it carefully, and pour it into jars or
glasses: if into the latter warm them previously, or the boiling
jelly may cause them to break.

Barberries, 3 lbs.; water 43 pints: 15 minutes.. Juice alone,
10 minutes. To each pound of juice 1 lb. of sugar: 10 minutes.

BARBERRY JAM.
(A good Receipt.)

The barberries for this preserve should be quite ripe, though
they should not be allowed to hang until they begin to decay.
Strip them from the stalks, throw aside such as are spotted, and
for each pound of the fruit allow eighteen ounces of well-refined
sugar; boil this, with one pint of water to every four pounds,
until it becomes white, and falls in thick masses from the spoon;
then throw in the fruit, and keep it stirred over a brisk fire for
six minutes only; take off the scum, and pour it into jars or
glasses.

Sugar, 43 Ibs. ; water, 14 pint: boiled to candy height. Bar-
berries, 4 lbs.: 6 minutes.

BARBERRY JAM.
(Second Receipt.)

The preceding is an excellent receipt, but the preserve will
be very good if eighteen ounces of pounded sugar be mixed and
boiled with the fruit for ten minutes; and this is done at a small
expense of time and trouble.

Sugar pounded, 23 lbs.; fruit, 2 lbs.: boiled 10 minutes.

VERY COMMON BARBERRY JAM.

Weigh the fruit after it has been stripped from the stalks,
and boil it for ten minutes over a moderate fire, keeping it

stirréd all the time; then add to it an equal weight of good’

Lisbon sugar, and boil the preserve for five minutes.
Barberries, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes. Lisbon sugar, 3 lbs.: 5
minutes.
Obs.—The small barberry, without stones, must be used for
the foregoing receipts, but for those which follow either sort
will answer.

SUPERIOR BARBERRY JELLY, AND MARMALADE.

Strip the fruit from the stems, wash it in spring-water, drain,
bruise it slightly, and put it into a clean stone jar, with no more
liquid than the drops which hang about it. Place the jar in a
pan of water, and steam the fruit until it is quite tender: this
will be in from thirty minutes to an hour. Pour off the clear

CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 499

juice, strain, weigh, and boil it fast from five to seven minutes,
with eighteen ounces of sugar to every pound. For the mar-
malade, press the barberries through a sieve with a wooden
spoon, and boil them quickly for the same time, and with the
same proportion of sugar as the jelly.

Barberries boiled in water-bath until tender; to each pound
of juice, 1 lb. 2 ozs. sugar: 5 minutes. Pulp of fruit, to each
pound, 18 ozs. sugar: 5 minutes.

Obs.—We have always had these preserves made with very
ripe fruit, and have found them extremely good; but more

sugar thay be needed to sweeten them sufficiently when the
barberries have hung less time upon the trees.

ORANGE MARMALADE.

Rasp very slightly on a fine and delicately clean grater the
rinds of some sound Seville oranges; cut them in quarters,
and separate the flesh from the rinds; then with the small
end of a tea, or eggspoon, clear it entirely from the pips,
and from the loose inner skin and film. Put the rinds into a
large quantity of cold water, and change it when they have
boiled about twenty minutes. As soon as they are perfectly
tender lift them out, and drain them on a sieve; slice them
thin, and add eight ounces of them to each pound of the pulp
and juice, with a pound and a half of highly-refined sugar in fine
powder ; boil the marmalade quickly for half an hour, skim it
well, and turn it into the jars. The preserve thus made will
not have a very powerful flavour of the orange rind. When more
of this is liked, either leave a portion of the fruit unrasped,
or mix with the preserve some of the zest which has been
grated off, allowing for it its weight of sugar. Or proceed
thus: allow to a dozen Seville oranges two fine juicy lemons,
and take the weight of the whole in sifted sugar, of excellent
quality. With a sharp knife cut through the rinds just deep
enough to allow them to be stripped off in quarters with the
end of a spoon, and throw them for a night into plenty of
cold spring-water; on the following morning boil them suffi-
ciently tender to allow the head of a pin to pierce them
easily ; then drain them well, let them cool, and scrape out
the white part of the rind, and cut the remainder into thin
chips. In the mean time have the pulp of the fruit quite
cleared from the pips and film; put it with the sugar and
chips into a preserving pan, heat it slowly, then boil it from
twenty to thirty minutes: it will be very rich, good marma-
lade. Thesugar, first broken into large lumps, is sometimes

500 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XXI.

made into a very thick syrup, with so much water only as
will just dissolve it; the pulp and juice are in that case boiled —
in it quickly for ten minutes before the chips are added; and.
a part of these are pounded and stirred into the preserve with
the others. March is the proper month for making this pre--
serve, the Seville orange being then in perfection. For lemon
marmalade proceed exactly in the same manner as for this. —
The whole of the rinds of either fruit are pounded to a paste, —
and then boiled with the pulp, to make what is called trans-
parent marmalade.

Rinds of Seville oranges, lightly rasped and boiled tender,
2 lbs.; pulp and juice, 4 Ibs.; sugar, 6 lbs.: 4 hour. Or,
weight of oranges, first taken in sugar, and added, with all
the rinds, to the pulp after the whole has been properly
prepared.

GENUINE SCOTCH MARMALADE.

“ Take some bitter oranges, and double their weight of
sugar; cut the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off,
and if the marmalade be not wanted very thick, take off some
of the spongy white skin inside the rind. Cut the chips as
thin as possible, and about half an inch long, and divide the
pulp into small bits, removing carefully the seeds, which may
be steeped in part of the water that is to make the marmalade, —
and which must be in the proportion of a quart to a pound of
fruit. Put the chips and pulp into a deep earthen dish, and
pour the water boiling over them; let them remain for twelve
or fourteen hours, and then turn the whole into the preserving
pan, and boil it until the chips are perfectly tender. When
they are so, add by degrees the sugar (which should be pre-
, viously pounded), and boil the marmalade until it jellies.
The water.in which the seeds have been steeped, and which
must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of
the preserve, should be poured into a hair-sieve, and the seeds
well worked in it with the back of a spoon; a strong clear
jelly will be obtained by this means, which must be washed off
them by pouring their own liquor through the sieve in small
portions over them. This must be added to the fruit when it is
first set on the fire.”

Oranges, 3 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; sugar, 6 lbs,

Obs.—This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is
guaranteed as an excellent one by the Scottish lady from whom
it was procured.

CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 501

ORANGE CONSERVE FOR PUDDINGS.

Wash and then soak in plenty of spring water for three days,
changing it night and morning, half a dozen Seville oranges ;
then boil them until they are sufficiently tender for the head of
a pin to pierce them easily; drain and weigh them, and for each
pound take, and reduce to fine powder, two pounds of good sugar.
Cut the oranges asunder, and remove the pips and the coarse
loose skin of the cores; then beat them, with the sugar, in a
large mortar, and pick out, as this is done, any bits of fibre or
coarse inner skin which cannot be reduced to a paste. When
the whole forms a smooth conserve, put it into small jars for
use, as it requires no boiling after the fruit and sugar are
mixed: if stored in a dry place it will remain good for two
years. Each orange should be tied in a thin small cloth or a
bit of muslin when it is boiled, and the water should be
changed once (or even twice when the fine aromatic bitter of the
rind is altogether objected to), or the fruit may be lifted from
the water and thrown immediately into another pan containing
more which is ready bciling. Two tablespoonsful of this con-
serve, with the yolks of five or six eggs, a couple of ounces of
sugar, and as much clarified butter smoothly mixed and well
beaten together, will make good cheesecakes, or an excellent but
not large pudding: the same proportion will be found an
agreeable addition to a plum pudding also.

Seville oranges, boiled tender, 2 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.; beaten
together, not boiled.

LEMON CONSERVE,

This is made like the conserve which precedes it, but does
not require quite so large a proportion of sugar. Choose for it
some fine fresh lemons, wipe, and weigh them; and for each
pound allow a pound and a half of sugar. Throw them into
boiling water, and when they are quite soft, which will be in
something more or less than an hour, lift them out, drain them
a little, cut them in halves, and take out the pips; then pound
them to a very smooth paste, removing, as this is done, the
coarse skin and fibres; mix the sugar perfectly with them in
the mortar, and store the conserve in small jars.

Lemons, 2 lbs.; boiled 2 to1 hour or more. Sugar, 3 lbs.

Obs.—The fruit requires no previous soaking before it is
boiled for this preserve ; nor is it necessary to change the water,
nor to tie the lemons in muslin.

502 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. XXII.»

CHAPTER XXIL

PICKLES,

Mango.

OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES.

Tue first requisite in making pickles is to have unadulterated
vinegar, for all the expense and trouble bestowed upon them is
often entirely lost in consequence of ingredients being mixed
with this which soften, and sometimes even partially decompose,
the substances immersed in it. That which is home-made is
generally found for all purposes to answer best, and it may be
prepared of almost any degree of strength by increasing the
ordinary proportion of fruit and sugar, or whatever else may be
used for it. The refuse of raisin-wine, and green gooseberries,
may both be converted into excellent vinegar; but unless the
pickles be quite covered with their liquor, and well protected
_from the air, and from'the influence of damp, which is more than
anything destructive of them, the purity of the vinegar will not
preserve them eatable. We can confidently recommend to the
reader the rather limited number of receipts which follow, and
which might easily be multiplied did the size of our volume
permit. Pickling is so easy a process, however, that when in
any degree properly acquired, it may be extended to almost
every kind of fruit and vegetable successfully. A few of the
.choicer kinds will nevertheless be found generally more accept-
‘able than a greater variety of inferior preparations. Mushrooms,
gherkins, walnuts, lemons, eschalots, and peaches, for all of
which we have given minute directions, will furnish as much

CHAP. XXII. | PICKLES. 503

choice as is commonly required. Very excellent Indian mangoes
too may be purchased at the Italian warehouses, and to many
tastes will be more acceptable than any English pickle. We
have had them very good from Mr. Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall,
whose house we have already had occasion to name.

TO PICKLE CHERRIES.

Leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine, sound Kent-
ish or Flemish cherries, which are not over ripe; put them into a
jar, cover them with cold vinegar, and let them stand for three
weeks ; pour off two thirds of the liquor and replace it with fresh
vinegar ; then, after having drained it from the fruit, boil the
whole with an ounce of coriander seed, a small blade of mace, a
few grains of cayenne, or a teaspoonful of white peppercorns,
and four bruised cochineals to every quart, all tied loosely in a
fold of muslin. Let the pickle become quite cold before. it is
added to the cherries: in a month they will be fit for use. The
vinegar which is poured from the fruit makes a good syrup of
itself, when boiled with a pound of sugar to the pint, but it is
improved by having some fresh raspberries, cherries, or currants
previously infused in it for three or four days,

TO PICKLE GHERKINS.

Let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day, before the frost
has touched them; take off the blossoms, put them into a stone
jar, and pour over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them
well. The following day take them out, wipe them singly, lay
them into a clean stone jar, with a dozen bay leaves over them,
and pour upon them the following pickle, when it is boiling fast :
as much vinegar as will more than cover the gherkins by an
inch or two, with an ounce and a quarter of salt, a quarter-
ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and a half of ginger
sliced, or slightly bruised, and two small blades of mace to every
quart; put a plate over the jar, and leave it for two days, then:
drain off the vinegar, and heat it afresh ; when it boils, throw in
the gherkins, and keep them just on the point of simmering for
two or three minutes; pour the whole back into the jar, put the
plate again upon it, and let it remain until the pickle is quite
cold, when a skin, or two separate folds of thick brown paper,
must be tied closely over it. ‘The gherkins thus pickled are |
very crisp, and excellent in flavour, and the colour is sufficiently
good to satisfy the prudent. housekeeper, to whom the brilliant
and poisonous green produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass
skillet (a process constantly recommended in books of cookery)

504 MODERN COOKERY. -[omap. xxi.

is anything but attractive. To satisfy ourselves of the effect
produced by the action of the acid on the metal, we had a few
gherkins thrown into some vinegar which was boiling in a brass
pan, and nothing could be more beautiful than the colour which
they almost immediately exhibited. We fear this dangerous
method is too often resorted to in preparing pickles for sale.

Brine to pour on gherkins :—6 ozs. salt to each quart water:
24 hours. Pickle:—to each quart vinegar, salt, 14 0z.; black
peppercorns, } 0z.; ginger, sliced or bruised, 14 oz.; mace, 2 small
blades; bay leaves; 24 to 100 gherkins, more when the fla-
vour is liked: 2 days. Gherkins simmered in vinegar, 2 to 3
minutes.

Obs.—The quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins
will be shown by that cf the brine: so much depends upon
their size, that it is impossible to direct the measure exactly.
A. larger proportion of spice can be added at pleasure.

TO PICKLE GHERKINS.
(A French Receipt.)

Brush or wipe the gherkins very clean, throw them into
plenty of fast-boiling water, and give them a single boil, take
them out quickly, and throw them immediately into a large
quantity of very cold water; change it once, and when the
gherkins themselves are quite cold, drain them well, spread
them on sieves or dishes, and dry them in the air. When this
is done, put them into stone jars, and pour on them as much
boiling vinegar as will cover them well ; heat it anew, and pour
it on them again the following day; and on the next throw
them into it for a minute so soon as it boils, with plent
of tarragon in branches, a few very small silver onions, and salt
and whole pepper in the same proportions as in the receipt
above. It should be observed that the French vinegar, from
its superior excellence, will have a very different effect, in many
preparations, to that which is made up for sale generally in
England; but unless it be at Mr. Beaufoy’s, Lambeth, we know
not where it can be procured genuine in this country.

TO PICKLE PEACHES, AND PEACH MANGOES.

Take, at their full growth, just before they begin to ripen,
six large or eight moderate-sized peaches; wipe the down
from thet and put them into brine that will float an egg.
In three days let them be taken out, and drained on a sieve
reversed for several hours. Boil in a quart of vinegar for ten
minutes two ounces of whole white pepper, two of ginger

‘

CHAP. XXII. | PICKLES. 505

slightly bruised, a teaspoonful of salt, two blades of mace,
half a pound of mustard-sced, and a half-teaspoonful of ca-
yenne tied in a bit of muslin. Lay the peaches into a jar, and
os the boiling pickle on them : in two months they will be fit
or use. ”

Peaches, 6 or 8: in brine 3 days. Vinegar, 1 quart; whole
white pepper, 2 ozs.; bruised ginger, 2 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful ;
mace, 2 blades ; mustard-seed, 1 1b.: 10 minutes.

Obs.—The peaches may be converted into excellent man-
goes by cutting out from the stalk-end of each, around of
sufficient size to allow the stone to be extracted: this should
be done after they are taken from the brine. They may be
filled with very fresh mustard-seed, previously washed in a
little vinegar; to this a small portion of garlic, or bruised
eschalots, cayenne, horse-radish, chilies (the most appropriate
of any), or spice of any kind may be added, to the taste. The
part cut out must be replaced, and secured with a packthread
crossed over the fruit.

SWEET PICKLE OF MELON.
(To serve with Roast Meat.) (Good.)

Take, within three or four days of their being fully ripe, one
or two well-flavoured melons; just pare off the outer rind,
clear them from the seeds, and cut them into slices of about half
an inch thick; lay them into good vinegar, and let them re-
main in it for ten days; then cover them with cold fresh vine-
gar, and simmer them very gently until they are tender. Lift
them on to a sieve reversed, to drain, and when they are
quite cold stick a couple of cloves into each slice, lay them into
a jar (a glass one, if at hand) and cover them well with cold
syrup, made with ten ounces of sugar to the pint of water,
boiled quickly together for twenty minutes. In about a week
take them from the syrup, let it drain from them a little, then
put them into the jars in which they are to be stored, and
cover them again thoroughly with good vinegar, which has
been boiled for an instant, and left to become quite cold be-
fore it is added to them.

This pickle is intended to be served more particularly with
roast mutton, hare, and venison, instead of currant jelly, but it
is very good with stewed meat also. Small blades of cinna-
mon, and a larger proportion of cloves are sometimes stuck
into the melon, but their flavour should not ‘prevail too
strongly. We have found the receipt answer extremely well

e
‘

506 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXII.

as we have given it, when tried with small green melons, cut
within four days of being fit for table.

Melons not quite ripe, pared from hard rind and sliced, 1
or 2: in vinegar 10 days. Simmered in it until tender. In
syrup 6 to 7 days. In fresh vinegar toremain. Ready to serve
in a month.

TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS.

Select for this purpose, if they can be procured, the smallest
buttons of the wild or meadow mushrooms, in preference to
those which are artificially raised, and let them be as freshly
gathered as possible. Cut the stems off quite close, and clean
them with a bit of new flannel slightly moistened, and dipped
in fine salt; throw them as they are done into plenty of
spring-water, mixed with a large spoonful of salt, but drain
them from it quickly afterwards, and lay them into a soft cloth
to dry, or the moisture which hangs about them will too
much weaken the pickle. For each quart of the mushrooms
thus prepared, take nearly a quart of the palest white wine
vinegar (this is far superior to the distilled vinegar generally
used for the purpose, and the variation in the colour of the
mushrooms will be very slight), and add to it a heaped tea-
spoonful of salt, half. an ounce of whole white pepper, an
ounce of ginger, sliced or slightly bruised, about the fourth of
a saltspoonful of cayenne, tied in a small bit of muslin, and
two large blades of mace; to these may be added half a small
nutmeg, sliced; but too much spice will entirely overpower
the fine natural flavour of the mushrooms. - When the pickle
boils, throw them in, and boil them in it over a clear fire mo-
derately fast from six to nine minutes, or somewhat longer,
should they not be very small. When they are much dispro-
portioned in size, the larger ones should have two minutes

boil before the others are thrown into the vinegar. As soon —

as they are tolerably tender, put them at once into small stone
jars, or into warm wide-necked bottles, and divide the spice

equally amongst them. The following day, or as soon as -

they are perfectly cold, secure them from the air with large
- corks, or tie skins and paper over them. They should be
stored in a dry place, and guarded from severe frost. When
the colour of the mushrooms 1s more considered than the ex-
cellence of the pickle, the distilled vinegar can be used for it..
The reader may rely upon this receipt as a really good one;
we have had it many times proved, and it is altogether our
own.

;

CHAP. XXII. ] PICKLES. 507

Mushroom buttons (without the stems), 2 quarts; palest
white wine vinegar, short 3 gallon ; salt, /arge dessertspoonful,
or 14 oz.; white peppercorns, 1 0oz.; whole ginger, 2 ozs.5
cayenne, small 3 saltspoonful ; 1 small nutmeg.

MUSHROOMS IN BRINE.
For Winter use. (Very good.)

We have had small mushroom-buttons excellently preserved
through the winter prepared as follows, and we therefore give
the exact proportions which we had used for them, though the
same quantity of brine would possibly allow of rather more
mushrooms in it. Prepare them exactly as for the preceding
pickle, and measure them after the stems are taken off. For
each quart, boil together for five minutes two quarts of water,
with half a pound of common white salt, a small dessertspoonful
of white peppercorns, a couple of blades of mace, and a race of
ginger; take off the scum thoroughly, and throw in the mush-
rooms; boil them gently for about five minutes, then put them
into well-warmed, wide-necked bottles, and let them become
perfectly cold; pour a little good salad-oil on the top, cork them
with new corks, and tie bladder over, or cover them with two
separate bladders. When wanted for use, soak the mushrooms
in warm water until the brine is sufficiently extracted.

Mushrooms, 1 quart; water, } gallon; salt, 4 1b.; peppercorns,
1small dessertspoonful; mace, 2 blades; ginger, 1 race: 5 minutes.
Mushrooms, in brine: 5 minutes.

TO PICKLE WALNUTS.

The walnuts for this pickle must be gathered while a pin
can pierce them easily, for when once the shell can be felt, they
have ceased to be in a proper state for it. Make sufficient
brine to cover them well, with six ounces of salt to the quart
of water; take off the scum, which will rise to the surface as
the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, and stir them night and
morning ; change the brine every three days, and if they are
wanted for immediate eating, leave them in it for twelve days;
otherwise, drain them from it in nme, spread them on dishes,
and let them remain exposed to the air until they become black:
this will be.in twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them
with something more than half a gallon of vinegar to the
hundred, a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of black pepper, three
- of bruised ginger, a drachm of mace, and from a quarter to half
an ounce of cloves (of which some may be stuck into three or
four small onions), and four ounces of mustard-seed. Boil the

a
508 MODERN COOKERY. — [CHAP. XXII .

whole of these together for about five minutes; have the.
walnuts ready in a stone jar, or jars, and pour it on them as it is
taken from the fire. When the pickle is quite cold, cover the ~
jar securely, and store it in a dry place. Keep the walnuts

ee well covered with vinegar, and boil that which is added

to them.

_ Walnuts, 100; in brine made with 12 ozs. salt to 2 quarts
water, and changed twice or more, 9 or 12 days. Vinegar, full

3 gallon; salt, 1 teaspoonful; whole black pepper, 2 ozs.;

ginger, 3 ozs.; mace, 1 drachm; cloves, } to40z.; smallonions,

4to6; mustard-seed, 4 ozs.: 5 minutes.

TO PICKLE BEET-ROOT.

Boil the beet-root tender by the directions of page 329, and
when it is quite cold, pare and slice it; put it into a jar, and
cover it with vinegar previously boiled and allowed to become
again perfectly cold: it will soon be ready for use. It is
excellent when merely covered with Chili vinegar. A few
small shalots may be boiled in the pickle for it when their
flavour is liked.

To each quart vinegar, salt, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne tied in
muslin, } saltspoonful, or white peppercorns, } to whole oz.

PICKLED ESCHALOTS.

For a quart of ready-peeled eschalots, add to the same quan-
tity of the best pale white wine vinegar, a dessertspoonful of
salt, and an ounce of whole white pepper; bring these quickly
to a boil, take off the scum, throw in the eschalots, simmer
them for two minutes only, turn them into a clean stone jar,
and when they are quite cold, tie a skin, or two folds of thick.
paper over it.

Eschalots, 1 quart; vinegar, 1 quart; salt, 1 dessertspoonful;
whole white pepper, 1 oz.

Obs.—The sooner the eschalots are pickled after they are
ripe and dry, the better they will be.

PICKLED ONIONS.

Take the smallest onions that can be procured,* just after they
are harvested, for they are never in so good a state for the pur-
pose as then; proceed, after having peeled them, exactly as for
the eschalots, and when they begin to look clear, which will be
in three or four minutes, put them into jars, and pour the

® The Reading onion is the proper kind for pickling.

CHAP. XXII | PICKLES. 509

pickle on them. The vinegar should be very pale, and their
colour will then be exceedingly well preserved. Any favourite
Spices can be added to it.

TO PICKLE LEMONS, AND LimES. (Lxcellent.)

Wipe eight fine sound lemons very clean, and make, at equal
distances, four deep incisions in each, from the stalk to the
blossom end, but without dividing the fruit; stuff them with as
much salt as they will contain, lay them into a deep dish, and
place them in a sunny window, or in some warm place for a
week or ten days, keeping them often turned and basted with
their own liquor; then rub them with some good pale turmeric,
and put them with their juice, into a stone jar with a small
head of garlic, divided into cloves and peeled, and a dozen small
onions stuck with twice as many cloves. Boil in two quarts of
white wine vinegar, half a pound of ginger slightly bruised, two
ounces of whole black pepper, and half a pound of mustard-
seed; take them from the fire and pour them directly on the
lemons; cover the jar with a plate, and let them remain until the
following day, then add to the pickle half a dozen capsicums
(or a few chilies, if more convenient), and tie a skin and a fold
of thick paper over the jar.

Large lemons stuffed with salt, 8: @to 10 days. Turmeric, 1
to 2 ozs.; ginger, 1 lb.; mustard-seed, 4 lb.; capsicums, 6 ozs.

Obs.—The turmeric and garlic may, we think, be omitted
from this pickle with advantage. It will remain good for seven
years if the lemons be kept well covered with vinegar: that
which is added to them should be boiled and then left till cold
before it is poured into the jar. The lemons will not be fit for
tabie in less than twelve months; but if wanted for more im-
mediate use, set them for one night into a cool oven after the
bread is drawn; they may then be eaten almost directly.

Limes must have but slight incisions made in the rinds; and
they will be sufficiently softened in four or five days. Two
ounces of salt only will be required for half a dozen; and all
which remains unmelted must, with their juice, be put into the
jar with them before the vinegar is poured on: this should be
mixed with spice and mustard-seed, and be boiling when it is

added to the limes. .

TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS.
These should be gathered quite young, and a portion of the
buds, when very small, should be mixed with them. Prepare
a pickle by dissolving an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of |

510 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, XXII.

pale vinegar, and throw in the berries as they become fit, from
day to day. ‘They are used instead of capers for sauce, and by
some persons are preferred to them. When purchased for
pickling, put them at once into a jar, and cover them well with
the vinegar.

TO PICKLE BARBERRIES AND SIBERIAN CRABS.

When wanted for garnishing only, take the fruit before it is
very ripe, cut half the length of their stalks from the crabs, and
free the barberries from the leaves, and from any discoloured
berries that may be amongst them. Put thém into stone jars,

and cover them well with brine, which has been boiled and left
to become perfectly cold. Look at them occasionally during the
winter, and should any scum or mould have gathered on the sur-
face, clear it well off, drain the brine closely from the fruit, and
fill the jars with some that is freshly made. Six ounces of salt,
and a morsel of alum half the size of a bean to the quart
of water should be boiled together for ten minutes and well
skimmed, both for the first brine, and for any that may be re-
quired afterwards.

To pickle these fruits in vinegar, add the alum to a sufficient
quantity to cover them, and boil it with a few white pepper-
corns, which must be strained out before it is poured into the
jars : it must be quite cold when added to the barberries or crabs.
‘These last should not be ripe when they are used, or they will
burst in the pickle; they should have attained their growth and
full colour, but be still hard.

TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.

Strip off the outer leaves, wipe, and slice a fine sound cab-
bage or two extremely thin, sprinkle plenty of salt over them,
and let them drain in a sieve, or on a strainer for twelve hours
or more; shake or press the moisture from them; put them into
clean stone jars, and cover them well with vinegar, in which an
ounce of black pepper to the quart has been boiled. Some per-
sons merely cover the vegetable with strong, unboiled vinegar.

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. — 611

CHAPTER XXIIL

CAKES.

Modern Cake Mould.

GENERAL REMARKS ON CAKES,

Tue ingredients for cakes, as well as for
puddings, should all be fresh and good,
as well as free from damp; the lightness
of many kinds depends entirely on that
given to the eggs by whisking, and by
the manner in which the whole is mixed.
A small portion of carbonate of soda,
which will not be in the slightest degree — pagte-board mould for
perceptible to the taste after the cake is large buns.
baked, if thrown in just before the mixture is put into the
oven, will ensure its rising well.

To guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast
when it is used for cakes or biscuits, it should be sparingly
added, and the sponge should be left twice the usual time to
rise. This method will be found to answer equally with bread.
For example: should a couple of spoonsful of yeast be ordered
in a receipt, when it is bitter, use but one, and let it stand two

WT Vine
IWR

512. MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP, XXIII.

hours instead of half the time: the fermentation, though slow,
will be quite as perfect as if it were more quickly effected, and

the cake or loaf thus made will not become dry by any means

so soon asif a larger portion of yeast were mixed with it.

All light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set
them; very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat
sufficient to bake them through; and smail sugar-cakes a very
slow oven, to prevent their taking a deep colour before they
are half done: gingerbread, too, should be gently baked, unless
it be of the light thick kind. Meringues, macaroons, and
ratafias, will bear a slight degree more of heat than these.

For sponge and savoy cakes the French butter their moulds
thickly, and shake fine sugar in them until they are equally
covered with it: the loose sugar must be turned out before they
are used.

To ascertain whether a cake be done, thrust a knife into the
centre, and should this come out clean, draw it from the oven
directly; but should-the paste adhere to it, continue the baking.

Several sheets of paper are placed usually under large plum-

cakes.
TO BLANCH ALMONDS, -
Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and heat

it slowly; when it is just scalding turn the almonds into a

basin, peel, and throw them into cold water as they are done:
dry them well in a soft cloth before they are used. If the
water be too hot it will turn them yellow.

TO POUND ALMONDS.

Almonds are more easily pounded, and less liable to become —

oily, if dried a little in a very gentle degree of heat after they

are blanched; left, for example, in a warm room for two or
three days, lightly spread on a large dish or tin. They should
be sprinkled during the beating with a few drops of cold water,

or white of egg, or lemon-juice, and pounded to a smooth paste:
this is more easily done, we believe, when they are first roughly

chopped, but we prefer to have them thrown at once into the
mortar.

TO REDUCE ALMONDS TO A PASTE.

, (The quickest and easiest way.)

Chop them a little on a large and very clean trencher, then

with a paste-roller (rolling-pin), which ought to be thicker in’

the middle than at the ends, roll them well until no small bits

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 513

are perceptible amongst them. We have found this method
answer admirably; but as some of the oil is expressed from the
almonds by it, and absorbed by the board, we would recommend
a marble slab for them in preference, when it is at hand; and _
should they be intended for a sweet dish, that some pounded °
sugar should be strewed under them. When a board or strong
trencher is used, it should be rather higher in the middle than
at the sides.

TO COLOUR ALMONDS OR SUGAR-GRAINS FOR CAKES, OR PASTRY.

Blanch, dry, and chop them rather coarsely; pour a little
prepared cochineal into the hands, and roll the almonds between
them until they are equally coloured; then spread them ona
sheet of paper, and place them in a very gentle degree of heat
to dry. Use spinage-juice (see page 427) to colour them green,
and a strong infusion of saffron to give them a yellow tint.
They have a pretty effect when strewed over the icing of tarts
or cakes, especially the rose-coloured ones, which should be
‘rather pale. The sugar is prepared in the same manner, after
being first broken into lumps, and then, with the end of a paste
roller, into grains about the size of a pea; but unless it be dry
and hard, and carefully done, it will absorb too much of the
cochineal: when but slightly coloured it is very ornamental
dropped on the borders of creamed tourtes, or on other varieties
of fine pastry.

TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR RICH CAKES.

For all large and very rich cakes the usual directions are, ¢o
beat the butter to a cream; but we find that they are quite as
light, if not more so, when it is cut small and gently melted
with just so much heat as will dissolve it, and no more. If it be
shaken round in a saucepan previously warmed, and held near
- the fire for a short time, it will soon be liquefied, which is all
that is required: it must on no account be hot when it is added
to the other ingredients, to which it must be poured in small
portions after they are all mixed, in the way which we have
minutely described in the receipt for a Madeira cake, and that
of the Sutherland puddings (Chapter XVIII). To cream it,
drain the water well from it, after it is cut, soften it a little
before the fire should it be very hard, and then with the back
of a large strong wooden spoon beat it until it resembies thick
cream. When prepared thus, the sugar is added to it first, and
then the other ingredients in succession.

514 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII,

TO WHISK EGGS FOR LIGHT RICH CAKES.

Break them one by one, and separate the yolks from the
whites: this is done easily by pouring the yolk from one half of
the shell to the other, and letting the white drop from it into a —
basin beneath. With a small three-pronged fork take out the
specks from each egg as it is broken, that none may accidentally
escape notice. Whisk the yolks until they appear light, and —
the whites until they are a quite solid froth; while any liquid
remains at the bottom of the bowl they are not sufficiently
beaten: when a portion of them, taken up with the whisk, and
dropped from it, remains standing in points, they are in the
proper state for use, and should be mixed at the cake directly.
ORANGE-FLOWER MACAROONS. (DELICIOUS.) .”

Have ready two pounds of very dry white sifted sugar.
Weigh two ounces of, the petals of freshly-gathered_ orange-

- blossoms after they have ‘been picked from the stems; and cut
them very small with ir.of ‘scissors.znto the sugar, as they —
will become discoloured if not mixed with it quickly after they
are cut. When all are done, add the whites of seven eggs, and
whisk the whole well together until it looks like snow ; then drop
the mixture upon paper without delay, and send the cakes to a
‘very cool oven.

Pounded sugar, 2 lbs.; orange-blossoms, 2 ozs.; whites of ©
eggs, 7: 20 minutes, or-more. i¢

OQés.—It is almost impossible to state with accuracy the pre-
cise time required for these cakes, so much depends on the
oven: they should be very delicately coloured, and yet dried ©
through. ‘i

ALMOND MACAROONS.

Blanch a pound of fresh Jordan almonds, wipe them dry, and
set them into a very cool oven to render them perfectly so;
pound them to an exceedingly smooth paste, with a little white
of egg; then whisk to a firm solid froth the whites of seven
eggs, or of eight, should they be small; mix with them a pound
and a half of the finest sugar; add these by degrees to the
almonds, whisk the whole up well together, and drop the mix-
ture upon wafer-paper, which may be procured at the confec-
tioner’s: bake the cakes in a moderate oven a very pale —
brown. It is an improvement to their flavour to substitute
ounce of bitter almonds for one of the sweet. They ar
times made with an equal weight of each; and anoth

HAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 515

of them is obtained by gently browning the almonds in a slow
oven before they are pounded.

Jordan almonds blanched, 1 Ib.; sugar, 14 1b.; whites of 7
or 8 eggs: 15 to 20 minutes. .

VERY FINE COCOA-NUT MACAROONS.

Rasp a fresh cocoa-nut, spread it on a dish or tin, and let it
dry gradually for a couple of days, if it can be done conve-
niently; add to it double its weight of fine sifted sugar, and the
whites of eight eggs beaten to a solid froth (see page 514), to
the pound. Roil the mixture into small balls, place them on a
buttered tin, and bake them in a very gentle oven about twenty
minutes. Move them from the tin while they are warm, and
store them in a very dry canister as soon as they are cold.

Cocoa-nut, 3 lb.; sugar, 1 lb.; whites of eggs, 8: very gentle
oven, 2() minutes.

“iB

IMPERIALS. (NOT VERY RICH.)

Work into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and mix well
with. them half a pound of sifted sugar, six ounces of currants,
two ounces of candied orange-peel, the grated rind of a lemon,
and four weil-beaten eggs. Flour a tin lightly, and with a
couple of forks place the paste upon it in small rough heaps
quite two inches apart. Bake them im a very gentle oven, from
a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes, or untilthey are equally
coloured to a pale brown.

Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 8 ozs.; currants, 6 ozs.;
candied peel, 2 ozs.; rind of 1 lemon; eggs, 4: 15 to 20 minutes.

VERY GOOD. SMALL RICH CAKES.

Beat and mix well together four eggs properly whisked, and
half a pound of fine sifted sugar; pour to them by degrees a
quarter-pound of clarified butter, as little warmed as possible;
stir lightly in with these four ounces of dry sifted flour, beat the
mixture for about ten minutes, put it into small buttered patty-
pans, and bake the cakes a quarter of an hour in a moderate
oyen. They should be flavoured with the rasped or grated rind
of asmall lemon, or with pounded mace or cianamon.

Eggs, 4; sugar, 4 1b.; butter, 4 ozs.; flour, 4 ozs.; lemon-
- rind, mace, or cinnamon: baked, 15 minutes.

ALMOND ROCHER.

) together very fine eight ounces of almonds, blanched,
d, six of candied orange-rind, or of orange and lemon

a : moisten them with a few drops of cold water or white of egg, to

SL > MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII.

rind mixed, and one ounce of citron; then add to them
two ounces of flour, three quarters of a pound of sugar, a small
teaspoonful of mace and cinnamon mixed, and the whites of
three large eggs; roll the mixture into balls about the size of a
large marble and bake them on wafer-paper twenty minutes in
a moderate oven: they should be quite crisp, but not deeply
coloured.

Almonds, 8 0zs.; candied orange-rind, 6 ozs.; citron, 1 0z.;
flour, 2 ozs.; sugar, ? lb.; mace and cinnamon mixed, 1 tea-
spoonful; whites of eggs, 3 large: baked, moderate oven, 20
‘ minutes. :

Obs.—When the flavour is not disliked, it will be found an
improvement to substitute an ounce of bitter almonds for one of
the sweet ; and we prefer the whole of the almonds and candied
peel also cut into spikes instead of being chopped: the ingre-
dients must then be made into a lither paste, and placed in
small heaps on the paper.

BITTER-ALMOND BISCUITS.

Blanch, and then chop as fine as possible, two ounces of bit-
ter almonds, and add them to half a pound of flour, half a pound
of sifted sugar, and two ounces of butter, previously well mixed
together. Whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a strong
froth, beat them lightly to the other ingredients, drop the cakes
on a buttered tm, or copper oven-leaf, and bake them rather
slowly from ten to twelve minutes: they should be very small.
Should the proportion of bitter almonds be considered unhealth-
ful, use half as many, and substitute sweet ones for the re-
mainder. ; .

Flour, 4 lb.; sugar, 4 lb.; butter, 2 ozs.; bitter almonds, 2
ozs. ; whites of eggs, 2: slow oven, 10 to 12 minutes.

FINE ALMOND CAKE.

Blanch, dry, and pound to the finest possible ‘paste, eight
ounces of fresh Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter; —

prevent their oiling ; then mix with them very gradually twelve
fresh eggs which have been whisked until they are exceedingly
light; throw in by degrees one pound of fine, dry, sifted sugar,
and keep the mixture light by constant beating, with a large
wooden spoon, as the separate ingredients are added. Mix in
by degrees three quarters of a pound of dried and sifted flour o

the best quality; then pour geritly from the sediment a pound
of butter which has been just melted, but not allowed t

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 517

hot, and beat it very gradually, but very thorougnly, into the
cake, letting one portion entirely disappear before another is
thrown in; add the rasped or finely-grated rinds of two sound
fresh lemons, fill a thickly-buttered mould rather more than
half full with the mixture, and bake the cake from an hour and
a half to two hours in a well-heated oven. Lay paper over the
top when it is sufficiently coloured, and guard carefully against
its being burned.

Jordan almonds, 3 lb.; bitter almonds, 1 0z.; eggs, 12; su-
gar, 1 lb.; flour, ¢ lb.; butter, 1 lb.; rinds lemons, 2: 13 to
. 2 hours.

Obs.—Three quarters of a pound of almonds may be mixed
with this cake when so large a portion of them is liked, but an
additional ounce or two of sugar, and one egg or more, will then
be required. )

|
POUND CAKE.

Mix, as directed in the foregoing receipt, ten eggs (some cooks
take a pound in weight of these), one pound of sugar, one of
flour, and as much of butter. A glass of brandy and a pound of
currants may be added very gradually just before the cake is
put into the oven, with any spice that is liked ; and two or three |
ounces of candied orange or lemon rind, sliced thin, or an ounce
of carraway seeds, may supply the place of all. A cake made
a half the quantity of the ingredients must be baked one

our.

RICE CAKE.

Take six eggs, with their weight in fine sugar, and in butter
‘also, and half their weight of flour of rice, and half of wheaten
flour ; make the cake as directed for the Madeira or almond
cake, but throw in the rice after the flour; then add the butter |
in the usual way, and bake the cake about an hour and ten mi-
nutes. Give any flavour that is liked. The butter may be
altogether omitted. This is a moderate-sized cake.

Eggs, in the shell, 6; their weight in butter and in sugar;
half as much flour of rice, and the same of wheaten flour: 1
hour, 10 minutes.

WHITE CAKE.

Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it an
equal weight of dried and sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of
eight eggs, separately whisked, two ounces of candied orange-
peel, half a teaspoonful of mace, a glass of brandy, one pound of

flour strewed in by degrees, and last of all a pound and a quarter

of currants. Directly it is mixed send the cake toa well-heated -

oven, and bake it for a couple of hours. Four ounces of pounded.
almonds are sometimes added to it.

Butter, $ Ib.; sugar, 3 lb.; eggs, 8; mace, } teaspoonful,
brandy, 1 wineglassful; flour, 1 lb.; candied-peel, 2 ozs.; cur-
rants, 1}1b.: 2 hours.

A GOOD SPONGE CAKE.
Rasp on some lumps of well-refined sugar the rind of a fine

sound lemon, and scrape off the part which has imbibed the es- —

sence, or crush the lumps to powder, and add them to as much more
as will make up the weight of eight or ten fresh eggs in the shell;
break these one by one, and separate the whites from the yolks;
beat the latter in a large bowl for ten minutes, then strew in the
sugar gradually, and beat them well together. In the mean time
let the whites be whisked to a quite solid froth, add them to the
yolks, and when they are well blended sift and str the flour
gently to them, but do not beat it into the mixture; pour the
cake into a well-buttered mould, and bake it an hour and a
quarter in a moderate oven. sev

Rasped rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 8 or 10; their weight
of dry, sifted sugar; and half their weight of flour: baked, 14
hour, moderate oven.

A SMALLER SPONGE CAKE.

(Very good.) om
Five full-sized eggs, the weight of four in sugar, and of
nearly three in flour, will make an exceedingly good cake: it
“may be flavoured, like the preceding one, with lemon-rind, of
with bitter almonds, vanilla, or confected orange-blossoms re-

518 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII.

duced to powder. An hour will bake it thoroughly. All the - :

ingredients for sponge cakes should be of good quality, and the

sugar and flour should be dry; they should also be passed q

through a fine sieve kept expressly for such purposes. The

excellence of the whole depends much on the manner in which
the eggs are whisked; this should be doneas lightly as possible;
but it is a mistake to suppose that they cannot be too long beaten,
as after they are brought to a state of perfect firmness they are

» injured by a continuation of the whisking, and will at times — :

curdle, and render a cake heavy from this cause.

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 519

A SPONGE CAKE. .
(Good and quickly made.)

Beat together for between twenty and thirty minutes, the
yolks of nine and the whites of five fresh eggs; then by degrees
add three quarters of a pound of sugar, and six and a half of
flour. Flavour it or not, at choice, with the grated rind of a
lemon, and bake it an hour, or rather more, in a brisk oven.

A GOOD MADEIRA CAKE.

Whisk four fresh eggs until they are as light as possible,

then, continuing still to whisk them, throw in by slow degrees
the following ingredients in the order in which they are written :
six ounces of dry, pounded, and sifted sugar; six of flour, also
dried and sifted ; four ounces of butter just dissolved, but not
heated; the rind of a fresh lemon; and the instant before the
cake is moulded, beat well in the third of a teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda: bake it an hour in a moderate oven. In
this, as in all compositions of the same nature, observe particu-
larly that each portion of butter must be beaten into the mix-
ture until no appearance of it remains before the next is added;
and if this be done, and the preparation be kept light by con-
stant and light whisking, the cake will be as good, if not better,
than if the butter were creamed. Candied citron can be added
to the paste, but it is not needed.
Eggs, 4; sugar, 6 ozs.; flour, 6 ozs.; butter, 4 ozs.; rind of
1 lemon; carbonate of soda, 4 of teaspoonful: 1 hour, mo-
derate oven.

A SOLIMEMNE.
(A rich French breakfast cake, or Sally Lunn.)

From three quarters of a pound of flour, take three ounces Si a

for the leaven, and make it into a lithe paste with half an ounce

of solid, well-washed yeast (see Chapter XX VIII.), mixed with |

two or three tablespoonsful of just warm cream, or new milk ;
throw a cloth over and leave it near the fire to rise for about
half an hour, or until it is twice its original size. In the interim
make a hollow in the centre of the remainder of the flour, and
put into it a quarter of an ounce of fine salt, one ounce of

ounded sugar, the yolks of four fresh eggs, four ounces of
cccean butter, and a couple of tablespoonsful of cream, also
warm. Mix the whole gently and carefully into a perfectly

fig
oT Aae

520 7 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. xxtr.

smooth paste, flatten it with the hand upon the dresser, spread
the leaven over it, and blend them thoroughly with light knead-
ing, as directed for brioche paste, page 339. ‘The whole should
be of the same colour throughout.

Next, put it into a small, well-buttered copper stewpan, or
plain cake-mould, and let it remain in a moderately warm place
until-it has risen, like the leaven, to double its original size ;
then with a paste-brush or feather wash the top with beaten
ege, and without disturbing it, set it into a tolerably quick
oven, and bake it nearly or quite an hour; but do not allow it
to be too deeply coloured. -‘Turn it from the mould, cut it once
or twice asunder, and pour over the slices plenty of good. butter,
just dissolved in a small saucepan ; put the cake together again,
and serve it immediately. It may be converted into an excel-

lent entreméts by spreading currant, or other fine jelly, or pre- .

serve, quickly upon it when it is cut, and sifting sugar thickly
on the top after it is restored to its proper form: it is then
called a Dresden cake. We think that when left until cold
and toasted, the solimemne is even better than when served
hot. It will be many hours rising ; sometimes as many as six
or eight. If wanted for breakfast it should be made over night.

Flour 2 lb.; yeast, 3 oz.; little cream ; salt, 4 oz. ; sugar, 1. 02. ;
yolks of eggs, 4; butter, 4 ozs.: to rise from 6 to 8 hours.
Baked 1 hour. m

BANBURY. CAKES.

First, mix well together a pound of currants, cleaned with |

great nicety and dried, a quarter-pound of beef-suet, finely
minced, three ounces:each of candied orange and lemon-rind,
shred small, a few grains of salt, a full quarter-ounce of pounded
cinnamon and nutmeg mixed, and four ounces of macaroons or
ratafias rolled to’ powder. Next, make a light paste with four-

teen ounces of butter to the pound of fiour; give it an extra.

‘turn or two to prevent its rising too much in the oven; roll
out one half in a very thin square, and spread the mixed fruit

and spice equally upon it; moisten the edges, lay on the re-

maining half of the paste, rolled equally thin, press the edges
securely together, mark the whole with the back of a knife in
regular divisions of two inches wide and three in length, bake
the pastry in a well-heated oven from twenty-five to thirty
minutes, and divide it into cakes while it is still warm. They

may be served as a second course dish either hot or cold, and

may be glazed at pleasure.
Currants, 1 lb.; beef-suet, 4 ozs.; candied orange and lemon-

ee ae

CHAP, XXIII. | CAKES. 521

rind each, 3 ozs.; salt, small pinch ; mixed spices, } oz. ; maca-
roons or ratafias, 4 ozs.: baked 25 to 30 minutes.

MERINGUES.

Whisk, to the firmest
possible froth, the whites
of six very fresh eggs,
taking every precaution
against a particle of the
yolk falling in amongst
them. Lay some squares
or long strips of writing
paper closely upon a
board or upon very
clean trenchers, which
ought to be nearly or “==
quite an inch thick, to ——
prevent the meringues from receiving any colour from the bot-
tom of the oven. When all is ready, mix with the eggs three
quarters of a pound of the finest sugar, well dried, and sifted;
stir them together for half a minute, then with a table or des-
sertspoon lay the mixture quickly on the papers in the form of
a half-ege, sift sugar over them without delay, blow off with
the bellows all that does not adhere, and set the meringues into
a gentle oven. The process must be expeditious, or the sugar
melting will cause the cakes to spread, instead of retaining the
shape of the spoon, as they ought. The whole art of making
them, indeed, appears to us to consist in preserving their proper
form, and the larger the proportion of sugar worked into the
eggs, the more easily this will bedone. When they are coloured
to a light brown, and are firm to the touch, draw them out,
turn the papers gently over, separating the meringues from
them, and with a teaspoon scoop out sufficient of the insides to
form a space for some whipped cream or preserve, and put
them again into the oven upon clean sheets. of paper, with
the moist sides uppermost, to dry: when they are crisp quite
through they are done. Let them become cold; fill, and then
join them together with a little white of egg so as to give them
the appearance shown in the plate. Spikes of pistachio nuts, or
almonds, can be stuck over them, as represented there, at plea-
sure. They afford always, if well made, a second course dish
of elegant appearance, and they are equally ornamental to
breakfasts or suppers of ceremony. ‘They are made in perfec-
tion by the pastry-cooks in France, being equally light, delicate,

Tia

522 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII. °

and delicious. Much of their excellence, it must be observed,
depends at all times on the attention they receive in the baking,
as well as in the previous preparation. ‘They must, of course,
be quite cold before the preserve or cream is laid into them.
From four to six ounces of almonds, finely pounded, may be
smoothly mixed with the other ingredients for them ; and they
may be flavoured with citron, lemon, or orange-rind by rasp-
ing the skins of the fruit with part of the sugar with which
_they are to be made; then drying, and reducing it to powder.

Whites of very fresh eggs, 6; sugar # lb.: gentle oven, 20 to
30 minutes.

ITALIAN MERINGUES,

Take for these the proportion of whites of eggs and sugar al-
ready indicated in the receipt for Nesselrode pudding, page 463 ;
that is to say, six to the pound, or half that quantity for a small
number of meringues. Boil the sugar with a pint of water until
it whitens, and begins to fall in flakes from the skimmer; have
the eggs whisked to a perfectly solid froth quite ready at the
proper moment, and when the sugar has stood for two or three
minutes, and been: worked well from the sides of the pan,
mingle them gradually, but very quickly, with it, that the
mass may be quite smooth; continue to stir them until they
become firm enough to retain their. shape perfectly when
moulded with a teaspoon; lay out the cakes on paper, and place
them in an oven so slow as to harden without giving them
colour. As they are not to be filled, but merely fastened to-
gether, they may be baked on tins. Part of them may be varied
by the addition of three or four ounces of pounded almonds
mixed thoroughly with the remainder of the eggs and sugar,
when a portion of the meringues have been moulded: these,
however, will require to be much longer baked than the others;
but they will be excellent. They should be lightly browned,
and crisp quite through.

Sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1 pint; whites of eggs, 6: very slow
_ oven, 20 to 30 minutes, or longer.

THICK, LIGHT GINGERBREAD. ;
Crumble down very small eight ounces of butter into a couple

of pounds of flour, then add to, and mix thoroughly with them, _

half a pound of good brown sugar, two ounces of powdered
ginger, and half an ounce of ground carraway-seeds; beat gra-
dually to these, first two pounds of treacle, next three well-
whisked eggs, and last of all half an ounce of carbonate of soda,

4
A

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 523
dissolved in a very small cupful of warm water ; stir the whole
briskly together, pour the mixture into-very shallow tins, put it
immediately into a moderate oven, and bakeit for an hour and
a half. The gingerbread made thus will be remarkably light
and good. For children part of the spice and butter may be
omitted. : +

Flour, 2 Ibs.; butter, 8 ozs.; sugar, 3 lb.; powdered ginger,
2 ozs.; eggs, 3; carbonate of soda, } 0z.; water, very small cup-
ful: baked 14 hour.

Obs.— We think that something less than the half ounce of
soda would be sufficient for this gingerbread, for with the whole
quantity it rises in the oven to three times its height, and is apt
to run over the tops of the tins, even when they are but half
filled with it at first.

GOOD COMMON GINGERBREAD.

‘Work very smoothly six ounces of fresh butter (or some that
has been well washed from the salt, and wrung dry in a cloth)
into one pound of flour, and mix with them thoroughly an ounce
of ginger in fine powder, four ounces of brown sugar, and half a
teaspoonful of beaten sloves and mace. Wet these with three
quarters of a pound of cold treacle, or rather more, if needful;
roll out the paste, cut the cakes with a round tin cutter, lay
them on a floured or buttered baking tin, and put them into a
very slow oven. Lemon-grate or candied peel can be added,
when it is liked.

Flour, 1 lb ; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 41b.; ginger, 1 oz.; cloves
and mace, 4 teaspoonful ; treacle, 3 Ib.: 4 to ¢ hour.

RICHER GINGERBREAD.

Melt together three quarters of a pound of treacle and half a
pound of fresh butter, and pour them hot on a pound of flour
mixed with half a pound of sugar and three quarters of an ounce
of ginger. When the paste is quite cold, roll it out with as much
more flour as will prevent its adhering to the board: bake the
cakes in a very gentle oven.

COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD.

Mix well together ten ounces of fine wheaten flour, and
six of flour of rice (or rice ground to powder), the grated rind of
a lemon, and three quarters of an ounce of ginger; pour nearly
boiling wpon these a pound of treacle, five ounces of fresh
butter, and five of sugar, melted together in a saucepan; beat
the mixture, which will be almost a batter, with a wooden

524 MODERN COOKERY. -[cHAP. XXIII.

spoon, and when quite smooth leave it until it is perfectly cold,
then add to it five ounces of grated, cocoa-nut, and when it is
thoroughly blended with the other ingredients, lay the paste in
small heaps upon a buttered tin, and bake them in a ay, slack
oven from half to three quarters of an hour.

Flour, 10 ozs.; ground rice, 6 ozs.; rind of 1 learn ginger,
20z.; treacle, 1 lb.; sugar, 5 ozs.; butter, 5 02zs.; cocoanut,
5 ozs.: 4 to ? hour.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD.

This receipt varies from the preceding one only in its propor-
tions. On eight ounces of flour, well mixed with an equal
weight of ground rice,* three quarters of an ounce of ginger,
and the rind of a lemon, pour hot the same quantity of treacle,
butter, and sugar, as directed above. When the paste is cold,
strew over, and beat well into it, six ounces and a half of grated
cocoa-nut. A couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon rind,
cut small, can be added, at pleasure.

Flour, 4 lb.; ground rice, 4 lb.; ginger, 2 oz.; rind of
1 lemon; butter, 5 ozs.; sugar, 5 ozs.; treacle, 1 lb.; cocoa-
nut, 6} ozs.

Obs.—We can particularly recommend these receipts to the
reader: the cakes made by them are excellent.

PARLIAMENT.

Roll a pound of Lisbon sugar, to take out the lumps, and mix
it well with two and a half of flour, and four ounces of ginger
in fine powder. On these pour, quite boiling, a pound of butter,
and a pound and a half of treacle which have been heated
together, and when the paste is sufficiently cool, knead it very |
smoothly, and roll it out thin upon the tins on which it is to be
baked; mark it with the back of a knife into squares, set it
into a slow oven, and let it remain until it is quite crisp, with-
out allowing it to take much colour. Divide it while it is still
wari, and as soon as it is cold put it into a dry canister.

Lisbon sugar, 1 Ib.; flour, 2} lbs.; ginger, 4 ozs.; eas
1 lb.; ; treacle, 14 lb.: slow oven, 15 to 20 minutes.

CHEAP GINGER BISCUITS.

Work into quite small crumbs three ounces of good butter,
with two pounds of flour, then add three ounces of pounded
sugar and two of ginger, in fine powder, and knead them into a

* Properly, rice-flour.

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 525

stiff paste, with new milk. Roll it thin, cut out the biscuits
with a cutter, and bake them in a slow oven until they are crisp
quite through, but keep them of a pale colour. A couple of
eggs are sometimes mixed with the milk for them, but are no
material improvement; an additional ounce of sugar may be
used when a sweeter biscuit is liked. To make good ginger
cakes, increase the butter to six ounces, and the sugar to eight,
for each pound of flour, and wet the ingredients into a paste
with eggs: a little lemon-grate will give it an agreeable
flavour.

Biscuits: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs.; pounded sugar, 3 02s. ;
ginger, 2 ozs.

Cakes: flour, 1 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 8 ozs.; ginger,
1 oz.; 3 to 4 eggs; rind of } lemon.

JUDGE FRANKS’ GINGER BISCUITS.
(Very gocd.)

With half a pound of fine wheaten flour mix an equal weight
of polenta (see page 423), and as much pounded and sifted sugar,
with an ounce and a half of ginger, and a grain of salt. Make
these ingredients into a smooth paste with thick sweet cream,
roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into small square
biscuits with a paste-runner or tin shape, and bake them twenty
minutes, or more, in a quite slow oven.

Wheaten flour, polenta, and pounded sugar, each 8 ozs. ;
ginger, 14 oz.; a grain of salt; cream, } to 2 pint: 20 to 25
minutes, slow oven.

CHESTNUT BISCUITS.

A pound and two ounees of fine sound Spanish chestnuts
will afford the weight required for these cakes. Make a slight
incision in the rinds, but without cutting into the kernels, and
throw the chestnuts into a large pan of boiling water; in half
an hour, should they be tolerably soft, drain them from it,
spread them on a tin, and set them into a gentle oven to dry.
They should be well cooked, but without being in the slightest
degree hardened. Strip off the rind and skin, and pound them
perfectly smooth in a large mortar; weigh three quarters of a
pound of this paste, and add to it half a pound of flour, pre-
viously well mixed with six ounces of sifted sugar; blend the
ingredients thoroughly by working them together with the
fingers ; then pour gradually to them a couple of eggs; mould
the cakes about the size of a chestnut; wash them with beaten
egg mixed with a little milk; and bake them in a quite gentle

526 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII..

oven from twenty to thirty minutes. If well made, they will
be very crisp and good. |

Pounded chestnuts, 12 ozs.: flour, 8 ozs.; sugar, 6 02zs.;
eggs, 2: 20 to 30 minutes, slow oven.

\ ISLE OF WIGHT DOUGH-NUTS.

Work smoothly together with the fingers four ounces of good
lard, and four pounds of flour; add half a pound of fine brown
sugar, two tablespoonsful of allspice, one drachm of pounded
cinnamon, half as much of cloves, two large blades of mace,
beaten to powder, two tablespoonsful of fresh yeast which has
been watered for one night, and which should be solid, and as
much new milk as will make the whole into a rather firm
dough ; let this stand from an hour to an hour and a half near
the fire, then knead it well, and make it into bails about the
size of a small apple; hollow them with the thumb, and enclose
a few currants in the middle; gather the paste well over them,
and throw the dough-nuts into a saucepan half filled with
boiling lard; when they are equally coloured to a fine brown,
lift them out and dry them before the fire on the back of a
sieve. When they are made in large quantities, as they are at
certain seasons in the island, they are drained upon very clean
straw. ‘The lard should boil only just before they are dropped
into it, or the outsides will be scorched before the insides are
sufficiently done.

Flour, 4 lbs.; lard, 4 ozs.; sugar, 4 Ib.; allspice, 2 table-
spoonsful; pounded cinnamon, 1 drachm; cloves and mace,
each } drachm ; yeast (solid), two large tablespoonsful : to rise,

1to ljhour. Currants, at choice: dough-nuts boiled in lard, .

5 to 7 minutes.

CINNAMON, OR LEMON CAKKS.

Rub six ounces of good butter into a pound of fine dry flour,
and work it lightly into crumbs; then add three quarters of a
pound of sifted sugar, a dessertspoonful of pounded cinnamon
(or half as much when only a slight flavour is liked), and
make these ingredients into a firm paste with three eggs, or
four, if needed. Roll it, not. very thin, and cut out the cakes
with a tin shape. Bake them in a very gentle oven from
fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer, should they not be done

and dry tin canister, a precaution which should be observed
with all small sugar cakes, which ought also to be loosened
from the oven-tins while they are still warm.

Sad th
+ te

i we

CHAP. XXIII. } CAKES, 527

Flour, 1 Ib.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 3 1b.; cinnamon, 1
dessertspoonful (more or less, to the taste) ; eggs, 3 to 4. :

Obs.— Lemon cakes can be made by this receipt by substitut-
ing for the cinnamon the rasped or grated rinds of two lemons,
and the strained juice of one, when its acidity is not objected to.
More butter, and more or less of sugar, can be used at will, both
for these and for the cinnamon cakes.

QUEEN CAKES.

To make these, proceed exactly as for Sutherland puddings
(see Chapter XVII.), but allow ten eggs for the pound of
sugar, butter, and flour, and when these are all well mixed,
throw in half a teaspoonful of mace, and a pound of clean dry
currants. Bake the cakes in small well-buttered tin pans
(heart-shaped ones are usual), in a somewhat brisk oven, for
about twenty minutes.

JUMBLES. |

Rasp on some good sugar the rinds of a couple of lemons;
dry, reduce it to powder, and sift it with as much more as will
make up a pound in weight; mix with it one pound of flour,
four well-beaten eggs and six ounces of warm butter: drop
the mixture on buttered tins, and bake the jumbles in a very
slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes. They should be
pale, but perfectly crisp.

A CHEAP COMMON CAKE.

Knead well into a couple of, pounds of light, well-risen,
bread-dough, halfa pound of butter, half a pound of Lisbon
sugar, and half a pound of currants; add some grated nutmeg,
and leave the cake to rise for an hour, then bake it in a rather
brisk oven for about an hour andaquarter. For children, two
ounces of the butter may be omitted; but when a somewhat
richer cake is desired four ounces more of sugar and of cur-
rants, a little candied peel, and the yolks of a couple of eggs, or
a small cup of warm cream, may be added to it. Some cooks
despatch it tothe oven as soon as it is mixed, but it is not then
so light.

A GOOD SODA CAEE.

Break down half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of
fine dry flour, and work it into very small crumbs; mix well
with these half a pound of sifted sugar, and pour to them first,
a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and next, three well-

™ ' ais a
528 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXiITs 9
whisked eggs; add some grated nutmeg, or fresh lemon-rind, ©
and eight ounces of currants, cleaned and dried; beat the whole
well and lightly together, then strew in a very small teaspoon-
ful of good carbonate of soda in thefinest powder, and again,
beat the cake well and lightly for three or four minutes; put
it into a buttered mould, and bake it from an hour to an hour
and a quarter; or divide it in two, when three quarters of an
hour will be sufficient for each part.

Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 4 Ib.; sugar, 4 1b.; boiling milk, full
i pint ; eggs, 3; currants, } 1b.; good carbonate of soda, 1 very
small teaspoonful: 1 to 14 hour. Or: divided in two, } to
2 hour.

Obs.—This, if carefully made, resembles a pound cake, but
is much less expensive, and far more wholesome, while it has ~~
the advantage of being very expeditiously prepared. Great
care, however, must be taken to avoid mixing with it too large
a proportion, or a coarse quality of soda; as either will impart
to it a far from agreeable flavour.

A GOOD LIGHT BUN.

Break quite small three ounces of good butter into a pound
and a quarter of flour, stir into the middle of these a spoonful —
and a quarter of solid, well-purified yeast, mixed with some-
thing more than a quarter-pint of warm milk, and leave it to
rise before, but not close to the fire, for an hour, or longer,
should it not then appear extremely light. Add to three eggs,
properly whisked, a few spoonsful of warm milk, strain and
beat them to the bun; next, mix with it six ounces of pale
brown sugar, six of well-cleaned currants, and the grated rind
of a small lemon, or some nutmeg, if preferred; or, in lieu of
either, slice into it an ounce and a half of candied orange-rind.
Let it again rise for an hour, then beat it up lightly with a
wooden spoon, put it into a buttered pan, and bake it in a brisk
oven for nearly or quite an hour. An additional ounce of
butter will improve it.

Flour, 13 lb. ; yeast, 13 tablespoonful: 1 hour, ormore. Eggs,

3; milk, less than 4 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; currants, 6 ozs. ; lemon-
grate, nutmeg, or candied orange-rind, at pleasure: 1 hour,
Baked nearly or quite an hour; brisk oven.

COCOA-NUT BISCUIT,
(Hacellent.)

With a pound of flour mix three ounces of a sound fresh .
cocoa-nut, rasped on a fine grater; make a leaven as for the

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 529 .

bun in the foregoing receipt, with a large tablespoonful of good
yeast, and about the third of a pint of warm new milk; let it
stand for an hour, then strew over and mix well up with it four
ounces of pounded sugar; next, dissolve two ounces of butter in
a very little milk, cool it down with a few spoonsful of cold
milk if needful, and pour it to a couple of well-whisked eggs;
with these make the other ingredients into a very light dough, let
it stand from three quarters of an hour to an hour, and bake it
about the same time in a rather quick oven. Two ounces more
of sugar, one of butter, and two of candied orange-rind, sliced
thin, will convert this into a good cake, the cocoa-nut imparting
great richness as well as flavour to the mixture: the proportion
-of this can also be regulated by the taste, after the first trial.

Flour, 1 lb.; grated cocoa-nut, 3 ozs.; yeast, 1 large table-
spoonful; milk, } of pint: 1 hour. Pounded sugar, 4 ozs.;
butter, 2 ozs.; eggs, 2; little milk: 2 tol hour. Or: sugar, 6
ozs.; butter, 3 ozs.; candied orange-rind, 2-ozs.; baked nearly
or quite an hour.

MOST EXCELLENT BUNS.

Work into half a pound of fiour three ounces of butter, until
it is quite in crumbs ; mix thoroughly with them four ounces of -
sugar, the slightest pinch of salt, an ounce, or rather more, of
candied orange or lemon rind, shred extremely small, and a
- little grated nutmeg ; to these pour boiling a small teacupful of
cream, or of milk when this cannot be had; mix them a little,
and add immediately two eggs, leaving out the white of one,
and when the whole is well mingled, dust over, and beat well
into it, less than half a teaspoonful of good carbonate of soda,
perfectly free from lumps; rub an oven-tin with butter, drop
the buns upon it with a spoon, and send them to a moderate
oven. When they are firm to the touch in every part, and
well coloured underneath, they are done. They resemble good
cakes, if properly made, although in reality they are not rich:
to render them so thé proportion of sugar and of butter can
be increased, and currants added also. It is immaterial, we
find, whether they be put into the oven as soon as they are
mixed, or an hour afterwards. They are equally light.

Flour, }1b.; butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; candied orange-
rind, 1 oz. or more; grated nutmeg; cream (or milk) 1 small
teacupful ; egg-yolks 2, white 1; good carbonate of soda about.
a third of teaspoonful: 15 to 25 minutes, moderate oven. ;

Obs.— These proportions make just a dozen of small buns.

? M M

530 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII.

A GALETTE.

The galette is a favourite cake in France, and may be made
rich, and comparatively delicate, or quite common, by using
more or less butter for it, and by augmenting or diminishing the
size. Work lightly three quarters of a pound of good butter
into a pound of flour, add a large saltspoonful of salt, and make
these into a paste with the yolks of a couple of eggs mixed with
a small cupful of good cream, should it be at hand; if not, with ©
water ; roll this into a complete round, three quarters of an inch
thick; score it in small diamonds, brush yolk of egg over the
top, and bake the galette for about half an hour in a tolerably
brisk oven: it is usually eaten hot, but is served cold also. An
ounce of sifted sugar is sometimes added to it.

A good galette: flour, 1 lb.; butter, ¢ Ib.; salt, 1 saltspoonful ;
yolks of eggs, 2; cream, small cupful: baked 3} hour. Common
galette: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 to 1 Ib.; no eggs.

CORNISH HEAVY CAKE.

Mix with a pound and a half of flour, ten ounces of well-
cleaned currants, and a small teaspoonful of salt; make these
into a smooth paste with clotted cream (any which is very thick
will do), roll the cake until it is an inch and a quarter in depth,
and bake it thoroughly in a quick oven, after having scored
the top. .

Flour, 15 Ib.; currants, 10 ozs.; salt, small teaspoonful ;
clotted, or very thick cream, ~ to full pint: 35 to 45 minutes,
brisk oven.

FLEED OR FLEAD CAKES.

These are very much served as a tea-cake at the tables of the
superior order of Kentish farmers. For the mode of making
them, proceed as for flead-crust (see Chapter XVI.); cut the
cakes small with a round cutter, and leave them more than half
an inch thick: if well made they will rise much in the oven.
Bake them rather quickly, but keep them pale.

Flour, 2 Ibs.; flead, 14 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.: baked 10 to 15
minutes. |

THREADNEEDLE STREET BISCUITS. ‘ *

Mix with a couple of pounds of sifted flour of the very best
quality, three ounces of good butter, and work it into the
smallest possible crumbs; add four ounces of fine, dry, sifted
sugar, and make them into a firm paste with new milk; beat

CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 531

this forcibly for some minutes with the rolling-pin, and when it
is extremely smooth roll it the third of an inch thick, cut it with
a small square cutter, and bake the biscuits in a very slow oven
until they are crisp to the centre: no part of them should
remain soft. Half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda is said to
improve them, but we have not put it to the test. Caraway-
seeds can be added when they are liked.

Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; new milk, 1 pint,
or more: biscuits s/owly baked until crisp.

GOOD CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS.

Make some fine white flour into a smooth paste with new
milk; divide it into small balls; roll, and afterwards pull them
with the fingers as thin as possible ; prick them all over, and
bake them in a somewhat brisk oven from ten to twelve
minutes.

THE COLONEL’S BISCUITS.

Mix a slight pinch of salt with some fine sifted flour; make it
into a very smooth paste with thin cream, and bake the biscuits
gently, after having prepared them for the oven like those
which precede. Store them as soon as they are cold in a dry
canister, to preserve them crisp: they are excellent.

AUNT CHARLOTTE’S BISCUITS.

These biscuits, which are very simple and wholesome, may
be made with the same dough as good white bread, with the
addition of from half to a whole ounce of butter to the pound,
kneaded into it after it has risen. Break the butter small,
‘spread out the dough a little, knead it in well and equally, and
leave it for about half an hour ; then roll it a quarter of an inch
thick, prick it well all over, cut out the biscuits, and bake
them in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes: they
should be crisp quite through, but not deeply coloured.

White-bread dough, 2 lbs. ; butter, 1 to2 ozs.: to rise } hour.
Baked in moderate oven 10 to 15 minutes.

Obs.—To make the biscuits by themselves, proceed as for
Bordyke bread; but use new milk for them, and work three
ounces of butter into two pounds of flour before the yeast is
added.

532 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIV.

CHAPTER XXTYV.

CONFECTIONARY.

Citron.

"Oo CLARIFY SUGAR..

Ir is an economy to use at once the very best sugar for confece
tionary in general, for when highly refined it needs little or no
clarifying, even for the most delicate purposes ; and the coarser
kinds lose considerable weight in the process. Break it into
large lumps, and put it into a very clean preserving pan ; mea-
sure for each pound a pint of spring water if it be intended for
syrup, but less than half that quantity for candying or making
barley-sugar. Beat first apart (but not to a strong froth), and
afterwards with the water, about half the white of an egg for
six pounds of sugar, unless it should be very common, when
twice as much may be used. When they are well mixed pour
them over the sugar, and let it stand until it is nearly dissolved;
then stir the whole thoroughly, and place it over a gentle fire,
but do not disturb it after the scum begins to gather on the top;
let it boil for five minutes, then take the pan from the fire, and
when it has stood a couple of minutes lear off the scum entirely,
with a skimmer; set the pan again over the fire, and when the
sugar begins to boil throw in a little cold water, which has been
reserved for the purpose from the quantity first measured, and
repeat the skimming until the syrup is very clear; it may then

CHAP. XxIv.] CONFECTIONARY. 533

be strained through a muslin, or a thin cloth, and put into a
clean pan for further boiling.

For syrup: sugar, 6 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; 4 white of 1 egg.
For candying, &c.: sugar, 6 lbs.; water, 24 pints: 5 to 10
minutes.

TO BOIL SUGAR FROM SYRUP TO CANDY, OR TO CARAMEL.

The technicalities by which confectioners distinguish the dif-
ferent degrees of sugar-boiling, seem to us calculated rather to
puzzle than to assist the reader; and we shall, therefore, confine
ourselves to such plain English terms as may suffice, we hope,
to explain them. After having boileda certain time, the length
of which will in a measure depend upon the quality of the sugar
as-well as on the quantity of water added, it becomes a thin
syrup, and will scarcely form a short thread if a drop be pressed
between the thumb and finger and they are then drawn apart;
from five to ten minutes more of rapid boiling will bring it to a
thick syrup, and when this degree is reached the thread may be
drawn from one hand to the other at some length without break-
ing; but its appearance in dropping from the skimmer will per-
haps best denote its being at this point, as it hangs in a sort of
string as it falls. After this the sugar will soon begin to whiten,
and to form large bubbles in the pan, when, if it be intended
for barley-sugar, or caramel, some lemon-juice or other acid
must be added to it, to prevent its graining or becoming sugar
again; but if wanted to candy, it must be stirred without ceas-
ing until it rises almost to the top of the pan, in one large white
mass, when it must be used immediately or laded out into
paper cases or on to dishes, with the utmost expedition, as it
passes in an instant almost, from this state to one in which it
forms a sort of powder, which will render it necessary to add
water, to stir it until dissolved, and to reboil it to the proper
point. For barley-sugar likewise it must be constantly stirred,
and carefully watched after the lemon-juice is added. A small
quantity should be dropped from time to time into a large basin
of cold water by those who are inexperienced in the process;
when in falling into this it makes a bubbling noise, and if taken
out immediately after it snaps clean between the teeth without
sticking to them, it must be poured out znstantly: if wanted for
sugar-spinning, the pan must be plunged as quickly as possible
into a vessel of cold water.

584. : MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIV. _

CARAMEL.
(The quickest way.) .

Put into a brass skillet, or preserving pan, some sifted sugar
of the finest quality, and stir it softly with a wooden spoon or
spatula, over a very gentle fire until it has become liquid; a
pale or a deep tint may then be given to it, according to the
purpose for which it is required: so soon as it is entirely
melted, and looks clear, it is ready for use. French cooks

use it also for nougat, and other confectionary, though it is not
in general quite so brilliant as that which is made by the pre-
ceding receipt. When thesugar first begins to melt it should be
.,btirred only just in that part, or it will not be equally coloured.

BARLEY-SUGAR.

Add to three pounds of highly-refined sugar one pint and a
quarter of spring water, with sufficient white of egg to clarify it
in the manner directed in the last page but one; pour to it,
when it begins to whiten, and to be very thick, a dessertspoonful
of the strained juice of a fresh lemon; and boil it quickly until it
is at the point which we have indicated above. A few drops of
essence of lemon may be added to it, just as it is taken from the
fire. Pour it on to a marble slab, or on to a shallow dish which
has been slightly oiled, or rubbed with a morsel of fresh butter;
and when it begins to harden at the edges form it into ‘sticks,
lozenges, balls; or any other shapes at pleasure. While it is
still liquid it may be used for various purposes, such as Chan-
tilly baskets, palace bonbons, des croques-en-bouches,* cerises au
caramel, &c.: for these the vessel containing it must be set into
a pan of water, and it must again be liquefied with a very gentle
degree of heat should it cool too quickly. As it soon dissolves
if exposed to damp, it should be put into very dry canisters as
soon as it is cold, and these should be kept in a dry place.

Best sugar, 3 lbs.; water, 1} pint; white of egg, 4 of 1; lemon- -

juice, 1 dessertspoonful.

NOUGAT.

This is a preparation of barley sugar, and almonds, filberts,
or pistachio-nuts, of which good confectioners, both foreign and

* These are formed of small cakes, roasted chestnuts, and various other things,
just dipped singly into the barley-sugar, and then arranged in good form and
joined in a mould, from which they are turned out for table.

_ CHAP. XXIV. | CONFECTIONARY. 535

English, make a great variety of highly ornamental dishes. We
must, however, confine our directions to the most common and
simple mode of serving it. Blanch twelve ounces of fine Jor-
dan almonds in the usual way, wipe them very dry, split them
in halves, and spread them upon tins or dishes; dry them in a
very gentle oven, without allowing them to brown; or if the
flavour be liked better so, let them be equally coloured to a pale |
gold tint: they should then be often turned while in the oven.
Boil to barley sugar in a small preserving pan six ounces of
highly-refined sugar, throw in the almonds, mix them with it
well without breaking them, turn the nougat on to a dish slightly
rubbed with oil, spread it out quickly, mark it into squares, and
cut it before it is cold; or pour it into a mould, and with an
oiled lemon spread it quickly, and very thin over it, and turn it
out when cool. It. must at all times be carefully preserved from
damp ; and should be put into a dry tin box as soon as it is cold.

Sugar, 6 ozs.; almonds, 12 ozs.

Another, and more expeditious way of making it, is to boil
the sugar to caramel without any water, as directed at page
534: the proportion of almonds can be diminished at pleasure,
but the nougat should always be well filled with them.

GINGER CANDY.

Break a pound of highly-refined sugar into lumps, put it into
a preserving pan, and pour over it about the third of a pint of
spring water; let it stand until the sugar is nearly dissolved,
thenset itover a perfectly clear fire, and boil it until 1t becomes a
thin syrup. Have ready ina large cup a teaspoonful of the very
best ginger in powder ; mix it smoothly and gradually with two
or three spoonsful of the syrup, and then stir it well into the
whole. Watch the mixture carefully, keep it stirred, and drop
it oftenfrom a spoon to_ascertain the exact point of boiling it has
reached. When it begins to fall in flakes, throw in the freshly-
grated rind of a very large lemon, or of two small ones, and
work the sugar round quickly as itis added. The candy must
now be stirred constantly until it is done: this will be when it
falls in a mass from the spoon, and does aot sink when placed
in a small heap ona dish. It must be poured, or /aded out, as
expeditiously as possible when ready, or it will fall quite into
powder. If this should happen, a little water must be added to
it, and it must be reboiled to the proper point. The candy, if
dropped in cakes upon cold dishes, may be moved off without
difficulty before it is thoroughly cold, but it must not be touched
while quite hot, or it will break.

536 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XxIv.

Sugar, highly refined, 1 lb.; water, 4 of a pint; ginger,
1 teaspoonful; rind of 1 large lemon.

ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY.

Beat in three quarters of a pint, or rather more, of water,
about the fourth part of the white of an egg, and pour it on
two pounds of the best sugar broken into lumps. When it has
stood a little time, place it over a very clear fire, and let it boil
for a few minutes, then set it on one side, until the scum has
subsided; clear it off, and boil the sugar until it is very thick,
then strew in by degrees three ounces of the petals of the orange-
blossom, weighed after they are picked from their stems. Con-

tinue to stir the candy until it rises in one white mass in the ~

pan, then pour it into small paper cases, or on to dishes, and
follow for it precisely the same directions as are given for the
ginger-candy in the preceding receipt. The orange-flowers will
turn brown if thrown too soon into the syrup: it should be more
than three parts boiled when they are added. ‘They must be
gathered on the day they are wanted for use, as they become
soon discoloured from keeping. ;

Sugar, 2 Ibs.; water, 2 pint; + white of egg; orange-blos-

soms, 3 ozs.

ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY:
(Another Recetpt.)

The French, who are very fond of the delicious flavour of the
orange-blossom, leave the petals in the candy; but a more deli-
cate confection, to English taste, is made as follows:—Throw
the orange-flowers into the syrup when it has boiled about ten
minutes, and after they have simmered in it for five more, pour
the whole out, and leave them to infuse until the following day,

-or even longer, if more convenient; then bring the syrup to
- the point of boiling, strain it from the blossoms through a

muslin, and finish it by the foregoing receipt.

COCOA-NUT CANDY.
Rasp very fine a sound fresh cocoa-nut, spread it on a dish,

and let it dry naturally for two or three days, as it will not bear ~

the heat of an oven, and is too oily for use when freshly broken.
Four ounces of it will be sufficient for a pound of sugar for
most tastes, but more can be used at pleasure. Boil the sugar as
for the orange-flower candy, and when it begins to be very
thick and white strew in the nut, stir and mix it well, and

CHAP. XXIV, | CONFECTIONARY. 537

do not quit it for an instant until it is finished. The pan
should not be placed upon the fire but over it, as the nut is
liable to burn with too fierce a heat.

For almond-candy proceed in exactly the same way, but let
the almonds, either whole or split, be perfectly well dried in
a gentle oven, and do not throw them into the sugar until it
approaches the candying point.

PALACE-BONBONS.

Take some fine fresh candied orange-rind, or citron, clear off
the sugar that adheres to it, cut it into inch-squares, stick these
singly on the prong of a silver fork, or on osier-twigs, dip
them into liquid barley-sugar, and place them on a dish rubbed
with the smallest possible quantity of very pure salad oil.
When cold, put them into tin boxes or canisters well dried,
with paper between each layer.

EVERTON TOFFIE.

Put into a. brass skillet, if at hand, three ounces of very
fresh butter, and as soon as it is just melted add a pound
of brown sugar of moderate quality; keep these stirred
gently over a very clear fire for about fifteen: minutes, or
until a little of the mixture, dropped into a basin of cold
water, breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to
them: when it is boiled to this point, it must be poured out
immediately, or it will burn. The grated rind of a lemon,
added when the toffie is half done, improves it much; or a
small teaspoonful of powdered ginger, moistened with a little
of the other ingredients, as soon as the sugar is dissolved, and
then stirred to the whole, will vary it pleasantly to many tastes,
The real Everton toffie is made, we apprehend, with a much
larger proportion of butter, but it is the less wholesome on that
very account. If dropped upon dishes first rubbed with a

_ buttered paper, the toffie when cold can be raised from them

easily.
Butter, 3 ozs.; sugar, 1 lb.: 15 to 18 minutes.

TOFFIE. (ANOTHER WAY.)

Boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter for
twenty minutes; then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched,
divided, and thoroughly dried in a slow oven, or before the fire.
Let the toffie boil after they are added, till it crackles when

— 538 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIV.

dropped into cold water, and snaps between the teeth without
sticking.

Sugar, 1 lb.; butter, 5 ozs.; almonds, 2: o0zs.: 20 to 30
minutes.

CHOCOLATE DROPS.

Throw into a well heated metal mortar from two to four
ounces of the best quality of cake-chocolate, broken small, and
pound it with a warm pestle until it resembles a smooth paste,
or very thick batter; then add an equal weight of sugar, in the
finest powder, and beat them until they are thoroughly blended.
Roll the mixture into small balls, lay them upon sheets of
writing paper or upon clean dishes, and take them off when
they are nearly cold. The tops may be covered with white
nonpareil comfits, or the drops may be shaken in a paper con-
taining some of these, and entirely encrusted with them; but it
must be recollected that they will not adhere to them after they
become hard. More or less sugar can be worked into the cho-
colate according to the taste; and a Wedgwood mortar may be
used for it when no other is at hand, but one of bell-metal will
answer the purpose better.

CHOCOLATE ALMONDS.

When the chocolate has been softened, and mixed with an
equal proportion of sugar, as directed in the foregoing receipt,
enclose-singly in small portions of it some almonds previously
well dried, or even slightly coloured in the oven, after having
been blanched. Roll them very smooth in the hand, and cover
them with the comfits, or form them like the almond shamrocks
of page 543. Filberts and pistachio-nuts may be substituted
for the almonds with good effect ; but they also must be per-
fectly dry. |

CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT. DISHES. 539

CHAPTER XXYV.

DESSERT-DISHES.

Olive,

MELANGE OF FRUIT.

Hear a dessert-dish quite high with alternate layers of fine
fresh strawberries stripped from the stalks, white and red
currants, and white or red raspberries ; strew each layer plenti-
fully with sifted sugar, and just before.the dish is sent to table,
pour equally over the top a glass. and a half of brandy, or, if
preferred, the same quantity, or rather more, of white wine,
mixed with the strained juice of one small, or of half a large
lemon. Currants by themselves are excellent prepared in this
way, and strawberries also. The fruit should be gently stirred
with a spoon when it is served. Each variety must be picked
with great nicety from the stalks. The brandy would, we
think. be less to the general taste in this country than the wine.

FRUIT EN CHEMISE, OR PERLE.

Select for this dish very fine bunches of red and white
currants, large ripe cherries, and gooseberries of different
colours, and strawberries or raspberries very freshly gathered.
Beat up the white of an egg with about half as much cold
water, dip the fruit into this mixture, drain it on a sieve for an
instant, and then roll it in fine sifted sugar until it is covered in
every part; give it a gentle shake, and lay it on sheets of white |
paper todry. In England, thin gum-water is sometimes used,

p “a
*
:

540 MODERN COOKERY. [cnap. xxv.

we believe, for this dish, instead of the white of ege; we give,
however, the French method of preparing it. It will dry
gradually in a warm room, or a sunny window, in the course of
three or four hours.

PEACH SALAD.

Pare and slice half a dozen fine ripe peaches, arrange them in
a dish, strew them with pounded sugar, and pour over them
two or three glasses of champagne: other wine may be used, but
this is best. Persons who prefer brandy can substitute it for
wine. The quantity of sugar must be proportioned to the sweet-
ness of the fruit. |

ORANGE SALAD.

Take off the outer rinds, and then strip away entirely the
white inside skin from some fine China oranges; slice them thin,
and remove the pips as this is done; strew over them plenty of
white sifted sugar, and pour on them a glass or more of brandy :
when the sugar is dissolved serve the oranges. In France ripe
oe of superior quality are sometimes sliced in with the oranges.

owdered sugar-candy used instead of sugar, is an improvement
in this salad; and the substitution of port, sherry, or Madeira
for the brandy is often considered so. ‘The fruit may be used
without being pared, and a little cuirasseau or any other liqueur
may be added to the brandy; or this last, when unmixed, may
be burned after it is poured on the oranges.

COMPOTE OF ORANGES.
(A Hebrew dish.)

After having pared and stripped the white inner rind from
some fine oranges, pull them into quarters, arrange them neatly
in a dish, and just before they are sent to table pour over them
some rich syrup, and garnish the whole tastefully with preserved
citron cut in thin slices, Half a pint of syrup will be sufficient
for a large number of oranges: it would be improved, we think,
if the rind of one, pared very thin, were infused in it for an hour
before it is used. ‘his is one of the receipts which we have not
considered it needful to prove.

ORANGES WARMED.

Place them in a Dutch oven at a considerable distance from
the fire, and keep them constantly turned: they should be only
just warmed through. Fold them in a napkin when done,
and send them immediately to table. This mode of treating
them is said to improve greatly the flavour of the oranges.

CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT DISHES. 541

BLACK CAPS PAR EXCELLENCE.

Cut a dozen fine Norfolk biffins in two without paring them,
scoop out the cores, and fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh
lemon-rind and with candied orange-peel. Cover the bottom
of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar,
press the two halves of each apple together, and place them
closely in the tin; pour half a bottle of raisin or of any other
sweet wine over them, and be careful to moisten the tops of all;
sift white sugar thickly on them, and set the tin into a very hot
oven at first, that the outsides of the apples may catch or become -
black; then draw them to the mouth of the oven, and bake them
gently until they are soft quite through: they will resemble a
rich sweetmeat when done, and will remain good for many days.
The Norfolk biffin answers for this dish far better than any ©
other kind of apple, but the winter queening, and some few firm
sorts beside, can be used for it with fair success. These for
variety may be cored without being divided, and filled with
orange marmalade. The black caps served hot, as a second
course dish, are excellent.

Norfolk biffins, 12; rinds fresh lemons, 1 to 2; candied
orange-rind, 2 to 3ozs.; pale brown sugar, 31b.; raisin or other
wine, 4 bottle; little sifted sugar: 3 to 1 hour, or more.

NORMANDY PIPPINS.

To one pound of the apples, put one quart of water and six
ounces of sugar; let them simmer gently for three hours, or more
should they not be perfectly tender. A few strips of fresh lemon-
peel and a very few cloves are by some persons considered agree=
able additions to the syrup. .

Dried Normandy pippins, 1 lb. ; water, 1 quart ; sugar, 60zs.:
3 to 4 hours. .

Obs.—These pippins, if stewed with care, will be converted
into a rich confection: they may be served hot in a border of
rice, as a second course dish. t

STEWED PRUNEAUX DE TOURS, OR TOURS DRIED PLUMS.

These plums, which resemble in form small dried Norfolk
biffins, make a delicious compéte: they are also excellent served
dry. InFrance they are stewed until tender in equal parts of water,
and of the light red wine of the country, with about four ounces
of sugar to the pound of fruit: when port wine is used for them
a smaller proportion of it will suffice. The sugar should not be
added in stewing any dried fruits until they are at least half-

done, as they will not soften by any means so easily in syrup as
in unsweetened liquid.

Dried plums, 1 lb.; water, 4 pint, and light claret, 3 pint, or
water, 3 pint, and port wine, 4 pint: 14 hour. Sugar, 4 ozs.:
1 hour, or more.

Obs.—Common French plums are stewed in the same way,
with or without wine. A little experience will teach the cook
the exact quantity of liquid and of sugar which they require.

BAKED COMPOTE OF APPLES.
(Our little lady's recetpt.)

Put into a wide Nottingham jar, with a cover, two quarts of
golden pippins, or of the small apple which resembles them in
appearance, called the orange pippin (this is very plentiful in
the county of Kent), pared and cored, but without being di-
vided; strew amongst them some small strips of very thin fresh
lemon-rind, throw on them, nearly at the top, half a pound of
good Lisbon sugar, and set the jar, with the cover tied on, for
some hours, or for a night, into a very slow oven. The apples
will be extremely good, if not too quickly baked: they should
remain entire, but be perfectly tender, and clear in appearance.
Add a little lemon-juice when the season is far advanced.

Apples, 2 quarts; rind, quite small lemon; sugar, } lb.: 1
night in slow oven; or some hours baking in a very gentle one.

Obs.—These apples may be served hot as a second course
dish; or cold, with a boiled custard poured round or over
them. They will likewise answer admirably to fill Gabrielle's
pudding, or a vol-au-vent a la créme, or the creamed toute em-
périale, for which see Appendix.

TO BAKE PEARS. :

Wipe some large sound iron pears, arrange them on a dish
with the stalk end upwards, put them into the oven after the
bread is drawn, and let them remain all night. If well baked,
they will be excellent, very sweet, and juicy, and much finer in
. flavour than those which are stewed or baked with sugar: the
bon chrétien pear also is delicious baked thus.

STEWED PEARS.

Pare, cut in halves, and core a dozen fine iron pears, put them —

into a close shutting stewpan with some thin strips of lemon-
rind, half a pound of sugar, in lumps, as much water as will

nearly cover them, and should a very bright colour be desired,a __

dozen grains of cochineal, bruised, and tied in a muslin; stew the

en
~

Yr
a @

CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT DISHES. 543

fruit as gently as possible, from four to six hours, or longer,
should it not be very tender. The Chamontel pear, which
sometimes falls in large quantities before it is ripe, is excellent,
if first baked until tolerably tender, and then stewed in a thin

syrup.
BOILED CHESTNUTS.

Make a slight incision in the outer skin only, of each chest-
nut, to prevent its bursting, and when all are done, throw them
into plenty of boiling water, with about a dessertspoonful of salt
to the half gallon. Some chestnuts will require to be boiled
nearly or quite an hour, others little more than half the time;
the cook should try them occasionally, and as soon as they are
soft through, drain them, wipe them in a coarse cloth, and send
them to table quickly in a hot napkin.

ROASTED CHESTNUTS.

The best mode of preparing these is to roast them, as in
Spain, in a coffee-roaster, after having first boiled them from
seven to ten minutes, and wiped them dry. They should not
be allowed to cool, and will require but from ten to fifteen
minutes roasting. They may, when more convenient, be
finished over the fire as usual, or in a Dutch or common oven,
but in all cases the previous boiling will be found an improve-
ment. Never omit to cut the rind of each nut slightly before
it is,cooked. Serve the chestnuts very hot in a napkin, and
send salt to table with them.

ALMOND SHAMROCKS.
(Very good, and very pretty.)

Whisk the white of a very fresh egg to a froth sufficiently
solid to remain standing in high points when dropped from the
whisk ; work into it from half to three quarters of a pound of
very fine dry sifted sugar, or more should it be needed, to
bring the mixture to a consistency in which it can be worked
with the fingers. Have ready some fine Jordan almonds which
have been blanched, and thoroughly dried at the mouth of the
oven; roll each of these in a small portion of icing until it is
equally covered, and of good form ; then lay them on sheets of
thick writing paper, placing three together in the form of the
shamrock, or trefoil, with a small bit of sugar twisted from the
centre almond to form the stalk. When all are ready, set them
into a very slow oven for twenty minutes or longer: they

544 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap, xxv.

should become quite firm without taking any colour. They
make an excellent and very ornamental dish. To give them
flavour and variety, use for them sugar which has been rasped
on the rinds of some sound lemons, or Seville oranges, or upon
citron, and dried before it is reduced to powder ; or add to the
mixture a drop of essence of roses, and a slight colouring of
prepared cochineal. A little spinach-juice will give a beautiful
green tint, but its flavour is not very agreeable. Filberts, or
pistachio nuts will answer as well as almonds, iced in this way.

SMALL SUGAR SOUFFLES.

These are made with the same preparation of egg and sugar
as the almond-shamrocks, and may be flavoured and coloured
in the same way. The icing must be sufficiently firm to roll
into balls scarcely larger than a nut: a little sifted sugar should
be dusted on the fingers in making them, but it must not remain
on the surface of the soufilés. ‘They are baked usually in very
small round paper cases, plaited with the edge of a knife, and
to give them brilliancy, the tops are slightly moistened, before
they are set into the oven, by passing the finger, or a paste-
brush, just dipped in cold water, lightly over them. Look at
them in about a quarter of an hour, and should they be
quite firm to the touch in every part draw them out; but if
not let them remain longer. They may be baked on sheets: of
paper, but will not preserve their form so well.

For 1 white of egg, whisked to a very firm froth, 8 to 10 ozs.
of sifted sugar, or more: soufilés, baked in extremely gentle
oven, 16 to 30 minutes, or longer if needful.

For a further variety of dessert dishes the reader is referred
to the compotes of Chapter XX. These, with fresh and dried
fruits, biscuits, cakes, olives, preserved ginger, and various other
confections, form, with ices all that belong commonly to them,

CHAP, XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. : 545

CHAPTER XXYVI.

SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c.

Gays SS SSS oo
ti eg i
Wim n py

Antique Wine Vase.

STRAWBERRY VINEGAR, OF DELICIOUS FLAVOUR.

Taxe the stalks from the fruit, which should be of a highly
flavoured sort, quite ripe, fresh from the beds, and gathered in
dry weather; weigh and put it into large glass jars, or wide-
necked bottles, and to each pound pour about a pint and a half
of fine pale white wine vinegar, which will answer the purpose
better than the entirely colourless kind sold under the name of
distilled vinegar, but which is, we believe, the pyroligneous
acid greatly diluted. Tie a thick paper over them, and let the
strawberries remain from three to four days; then pour off the
vinegar and empty them into a jelly-bag, or suspend them in a
cloth, that all the liquid may drop from them without pressure ;
replace them with an equal weight of fresh fruit, pour the vine-
gar upon it, and three days afterwards repeat the same process,
diminishing a little the proportion of strawberries, of which the
flavour ought ultimately to overpower that of the vinegar. In
from two to four days drain off the liquid very closely, and after
having strained it through a linen or a flannel bag, weigh it,
and mix with it an equal quantity of highly-refined sugar
roughly powdered ; when this is nearly dissolved, stir the syrup
over a very clear fire until it has boiled five minutes, and skim
NN

Fo.

546 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI.

it thorough.y; pour it into a delicately clean stone pitcher, or
into large china jugs, throw a folded cloth over and let it re- —
main until the morrow; put it into pint or half-pint bottles,
and cork them lightly with new velvet corks; for if these be
pressed in tightly at first, the bottles will be liable to burst :
in four or five days they may be closely corked, and stored in
a dry and cool place. Damp destroys the colour and injures
the flavour of these fine fruit-vinegars; of which a spoonful or
two in a glass of water affords so agreeable a summer beverage,
and one which, in many cascs of illness, is so acceptable to in-
valids. They make also most admirable sauces for Her
Majesty’s pudding, common custard, batter, and various other
simple and sweet light puddings.

Strawberries (stalked), 4 lbs.; vinegar, 3 quarts: 3 to 4

days. Vinegar drained and poured on fresh strawberries, 4 lbs.:
3 days. Drained again on to fresh fruit, 3 to 4 Ibs..: 2 to 4 days.
To each pound of the vinegar, 1 lb. of highly-refined sugar:
boiled 5 minutes. Lightly corked, 4 or 5 days.
—Where there is a garden the fruit may be thrown into
Ss it ripens, within an interval of forty-eight hours,
lof being all put to infuse at once, and it must then re-
main in it a proportionate time: one or two days in addition to
that specified will make no difference to the preparation. ‘The
enamelled German stewpans are the best possible vessels to boil
it in; but it may be simmered in a stone jar set into a pan of
boiling water, when there is nothing more appropriate at hand ;
though the syrup does not usually keep so well when this last
method is adopted.

Raspberries and strawberries mixed will make a vinegar of
very pleasant flavour; black currants also will afford an ex-
ceedingly useful syrup of the same kind.

STRAWBERRY ACID ROYAL.

Dissolve in a quart of spring water two ounces of citric acid,
and pour it on as many quite ripe and richly-flavoured straw-
berries, stripped from their stalks, as it will just cover; in
twenty-four hours drain the liquid-closely from the fruit, and
pour on it as much more; keep it in a cool place, and the next
day drain it again entirely from the fruit, and boil it gently for
three or four minutes, with its weight of very fine sugar, which
should be dissolved in it before it is placed over the fire. It
should be boiled, if possible, in an enamelled stewpan. ‘When
perfectly cold put it into small dry bottles for use, and store it
in a cool, but not damp place. It is one of the most delicate and

CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 547

deliciously flavoured preparations possible, and of beautiful
colour. Ifallowed to remain longer than the eight-and-forty
hours before it is boiled, a brisk fermentation will commence.
t must be well secured from the air when stored.
Water, 1 quart; citric acid, 2 ozs.; strawberries, 2 to 3 lbs.-:
24 hours. Same quantity of fruit: 24 hours. Equal weight
of sugar and this liquid: 3 to 4 minutes at the utmost.

VERY FINE RASPBERRY VINEGAR.

Fill glass jars, or large wide-necked bottles, with very ripe
but perfectly sound, freshly gathered raspberries, freed from their
stalks, and cover them with pale white wine vinegar: they may
be left to infuse from a week to ten days without injury, or the
vinegar may be poured from them in four and five, when more
convenient. After it is drained off, turn the fruit into a sieve
placed over a deep dish or bowl, as the juice will flow slowly
from it for many hours ; put fresh raspberries into the bottles,
and pour the vinegar back upon them; two or th ys later
change the fruit again, and when it has stood the dace of
time, drain the whole of the vinegar from it, pass
jelly-bag, or thick linen cloth, and boil it gently for!
five minutes with its weight of good sugar roughly powdered,
or a pound and a quarter to the exact pint, and be very carefal
to remove the scum entirely, as it rises. On the following day
bottle the syrup, observing the directions which we have given
for the strawberry vinegar. When the fruit is scarce it may be
changed twice only, and left a few days longer in the vinegar.

Raspberries, 6 lbs.; vinegar, 9 pints: 7 to 10 days. Vinegar
drained on to fresh raspberries (6 lbs. of): 3 to.5 days. Poured
again on fresh raspberries, 6 lbs.: 3 to 5 days. Boiled 5
minutes with its weight of sugar.

Obs.—W hen the process of sugar-boiling is well understood,
it will be found an improvement to boil that which is used for
raspberry or strawberry vinegar to candy height before the
liquid is mixed with it; all the scum may then be removed with
a couple of minutes simmering, and the flavour of the fruit
will be more perfectly preserved. For more particular direc-
tions as to the mode of proceeding, the chapter of confectionary
may be consulted.

FINE CURRANT SYRUP, OR SIROP DE GROSEILLES.

Express the juice from some fine ripe red currants, which
have been gathered in dry weather, and stripped from the stalks;

548 MODERN COOKERY. [cmaP. XXVI.

strain, and put it into a new, or a perfectly clean and dry
earthen pitcher, and let it stand in a cellar or some cool place
for twenty-four hours, or longer, should it not then appear per-
fectly curdled, Pour it gently into a fine hair-sieve, and let the
clear juice drain through without pressure; pass it through a
jelly-bag, or a closely-woven cloth, weigh it, and add as much
good sugar, broken small, as there is _juice, and when this is
dissolved turn the syrup into a preserving pan or stewpan, and
boil it gently for four or five minutes, being careful to clear off
all the scum. In twelve hours afterwards the syrup may be
put into small dry bottles, and corked and stored in a cool, but
dry place. It is-a most agreeable preparation, retaining per-
fectly the flavour of the fresh fruit; and mixed with water, it
atfords, like strawberry or raspberry vinegar, a delicious sum-
mer beverage, and one which is peculiarly adapted to invalids.
- It makes also a fine isinglass jelly, and an incomparable sweet-
pudding sauce. A portion of raspberry or cherry-juice may
be mixedswit! ong of the currants at pleasure.

- ORANGE-FLOWER RATAFIA.
(A delicious kiqueur.)

sugar, and bs quarters of a pint of water; throw into it
three ounces of the petals only, plucked one by one from the
stems, of some freshly gathered orange-blossoms, give them two
minutes boil, take them from the fire, and when the whole is
half cold stir in two bottles of white French brandy ; turn the
mixture into a new and well-scalded stone pitcher, or jar, make
it air-tight as soon as the liqueur is quite cold, and in from
three to four weeks it will be ready to bottle after the flowers
dave been strained ’from it: they: give it a delicious flavour.
Water, $ pint; sugar, 1} 1b.: 15 to 20 minutes, or more.
Petals of the orange-blossom, 3 ozs. ; 2 minutes. White French -
brandy, 2 quarts: infuse 3 to 4 weeks.

OXFORD PUNCH.

Extract the essence from the rinds of three lemons by rub-
bing them with sugar in lumps; put these into a large jug with
the “peel of two Seville oranges and of two’ lemons cut extremely
thin, the juice of, four Sev ile oranges and of ten lemons, and
six glasses of calf’s feet jelly ina liquid state. Stir these well
together, pour to them two quarts of boiling water, cover the —
jug closely, and set it near the fire for a quarter of an hour, —
then strain the mixture through a sieve into a punch bowl ‘eri:

on oo

5 ig
CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 549

jug, sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire, add half a pint of
white wine, a pint of French brandy, a pint of Jamaica rum,
and a bottle of orange shrub; stir the punch as the spirit is
poured in. If not sufficiently sweet, add sugar in small quan-
tities, or a spoonful or two of capillaire.

Rinds of lemons rubbed with sugar, 3; thin peel of lemons,
2; of. Seville oranges, 2; juice of 4 Seville oranges, and 10
lemons; calf’s feet jelly, 6 glasses; water, 2 quarts. 3 hour.
Capillaire, 1 bottle; white wine, } pint; French brandy and
Jamaica rum, each 1 pint; orange shrub, 1 bottle.

OXFORD RECEIPT FOR BISHOP.

“Make several incisions in the
rind of a lemon,* stick ‘cloves in
these, and roast the lemon by a
slow fire. Put small but equal
quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace,
and allspice, with a race of ginger,
into a saucepan with half a pint of
water: let it boil until it is reduced
one half. Boil one bottle of port
wine, burn a portion of the spirit Gis
out of it by applyinga lighted paper 2== ==)
to the saucepan. Put the roasted ===“

————

_ lemon and spice into the wine; ‘stir <=== a
it up well, and let it stand near the
fire ten minutes. Rub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a
lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug, with the juice of half
a lemon (not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate in some
nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, and serve it up with the
lemon and spice floating in it.”

CAMBRIDGE MILK PUNCH.

Throw into a couple of quarts of new milk the very thinly-
pared rind of a fine lemon, and half a pound of good sugar in
lumps; bring it slowly to boil, take out the lemon-rind,
draw it from the fire, and stir quickly in a couple of well-
whisked eggs which have been mixed with less than half a
pint of cold milk, and strained through a sieve; the milk must
not of course be allowed to boil after these are mixed with it.
Add gradually a pint of rum, and half a pint of brandy; mill

* A Seville orange stuck with cloves, to many tastes imparts a finer flavour
than the lemon,

* ee
550 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI.

the punch to a froth, and serve it immediately with quite warm
glasses. At the University the lemon-rind is usually omitted,
but it is a great improvement to the flavour of the beverage.
The sugar and spirit can be otherwise apportioned to the
taste; and we would recommend the yolks of three eggs, or of
four, in preference to the whole ones.

New milk, 2 quarts; rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 2;
cold milk, $ pint; rum, 1 pint; brandy, 3 pint.

TO MULL WINE.
(An excellent French receipt.)

Boil in a wineglassful and a half of water, a quarter of an
ounce of spice (cinnamon, ginger slightly bruised, and cloves),
with three ounces of fine sugar, until they form a thick syrup,
which must not on any account be allowed to burn. Pour ina
pint of port wine, and stir it gently until it is on the pornt of
boiling only: it should then be served immediately. The addi-
tion of a strip or two of orange-rind cut extremely thin, gives
to this beverage the flavour of bishop. In France light claret
takes the place of port wine in making it, and the better kinds
of vin du pays are very palatable thus prepared.

Water, 14 wineglassful; spice, + oz., of which fine cloves, 24,
and of remainder, rather more ginger than cinnamon; sugar,
3 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes. Port wine or claret, 1 pint; orange-
rind, if used, to be boiled with the spice.

Obs.—Sherry, or very fine raisin, or ginger wine, prepared as
above, and stirred hot to the yolks of four fresh eggs, will be
found excellent.

A BIRTHDAY SYLLABUB.

Put into a large bowl half a pound of sugar broken small,
and pour on it the strained juice of a couple of fresh lemons;
stir these well together, and add to them a pint of port wine, a
pint of sherry, and half a pint of brandy; grate in a fine nut-
meg, place the bowl under the cow, and milk it full. In serv~.
ing it put a portion of the curd into each glass, fill it up with
whey, and pour a little rich cream on the top. The rind of a
lemon may be rasped with part of the sugar when the flavour
is liked, but it is not usually added. ~

Juice of lemons, 2; sugar, 4 lb. or more; port wine, 1 pint;
sherry, 1 pint; brandy 4} pint; nutmeg, 1; milk from the
cow, 2 quarts.

Obs.—We can testify to the excellence of this receipt.

CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 551

CUIRASSEAU, OR CURACOA.
(An excellent and wholesome liqueur.)

Stick into the rind of a very fine China orange of rich flavour
from three to four cloves; put it into a glass jar, and shower
over it half a pound of West Indian sugar, of good quality ; pour
in a quart of French brandy, tie a couple of bladders over
the jar, or stop it with a cork fitted to its size, and place it in a
sunny window, or any other warm place, for a month; shake it
gently round every day to dissolve the sugar, or stir it, if need-~
ful; then strain it off, and bottle it. It is sometimes filtered;
but the long exposure to the air which this occasions is better
avoided. It is an admirable household stomachic liqueur, of
which we obtained the receipt abroad, from a friend who had it
made yearly in considerable quantity.

One very fine richly-flavoured China orange, left whole (or 2
small ones), stuck with 3 or 4 cloves; good pale brown sugar,
3 lb.; French brandy, 1 quart: infuse, 1 month.

THE REGENT’S, OR GEORGE THE FOURTH’S, PUNCH.

Pare as thin as possible the rinds of two China oranges, of two
lemons, and of one Seville orange, and infuse them for an hour
in half .a pmt of thin cold syrup; then add to them the juice
of the fruit. Make a pint of strong green tea, sweeten it well
with fine sugar, and when it is quite cold, add it to the fruit and
syrup, with a glass of the best old Jamaica rum, a glass of brandy,
one of arrack, one of pine-apple syrup, and two bottles of cham-
pagne; pass the whole through a fine lawn sieve until it is per-
fectly clear, then bottle, and put it into ice until dinner is served.
We are indebted for this receipt to a person who made the

punch daily for the prince’s table, at Carlton palace, for six
months ; it has been in our possession some years, and may be
relied on.

Rinds and juice of 2 China oranges, 2 lemons, and of 1 Seville
orange ;.syrup, 4 pint ; strong green.tea, sweetened, 1 pint ; best
old Jamaica rum, arrack, French brandy (vieux cognac), and
pine-apple syrup, each 1 glasstul; champagne, 2 bottles. In ice
tor a couple of hours.

THE OLD BACHELOR’S PUNCH.

Put into a half-pint tumbler the very thin rind of a fresh
lemon, and fill it with boiling water; squeeze the juice into a
second glass of the same size, and fill 1t more than half full

552 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXVI,

with sugar in lumps; then pour in as much boiling water as it
will contain, and when ‘the sugar is dissolved, turn the contents
of both glasses into a hot jug; add a tablespoonful of fine cur-
rant (or of guava) jelly, should it be at hand, stir the whole
well, keep it very hot, and add to it as much spirit as will make
it pleasant, but in the proportion of two glasses of brandy to one
of rum. ©
MINT JULEP.
(An American receipt.)

“‘ Strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler, and add to
them as much wine, brandy, or any other spirit, as you wish
to take. Put some pounded ice into a second tumbler; pour
this on the mint and brandy, and continue to pour the mixture
from one tumbler to the other until the whole is sufficiently
impregnated with the flavour of the mint, which is extracted by
the particles of the ice coming into brisk contact when changed
from one vessel to the other. Now place the glass in a larger
one, containing pounded ice; on taking it out of which it will
be covered with frost-work.”

DELICIOUS MILK LEMONADE.

Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water,
and mix with them a quarter-pint of lemon-juice, and the same
quantity of Sherry; then add three quarters of a pint of cold
milk, stir the whole well together, and pass it through a jelly-
bag till clear. |

EXCELLENT PORTABLE LEMONADE.

Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a very fine
juicy lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained
juice of the fruit. Press the mixture into a jar, and when.
wanted for use dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water.
It will keep a considerable time. If too sweet for the taste of
the drinker, a very small portion of citric acid may be added
when it is taken.

EXCELLENT BARLEY WATER. —

(Poor Xury’s receipt.)
Wipe very clean, by rolling it in a soft cloth, two tablespoons- _
ful of pearl-barley; put it into a quart jug, with a lump or two
of sugar, a grain or two of salt, and a strip of lemon-peel, cut
thin; fill up the jug with boiling water and keep the mixture
gently stirred for some minutes; then cover it down, and let it

CHAP. XXVI.]. SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 553

stand until perfectly cold. In twelve hours, or less, it will be fit
for use; but it is better when made over-night. If these direc-
tions be followed, the barley-water will be comparatively clear,
and very soft and pleasant to drink. A glass of calf’s feet jelly
added to the barley is an infinite improvement; but as lemon-
rind is often extremely unpalatable to invalids, their taste
should be consulted before that ingredient is added, as it should
be also for the degree of sweetness that is desired. After the
barley-water has been poured off once, the jug may be filled
with boiling water a second time, and even a third time with
advantage. ,

RAISIN WINE.
(Which, tf long kept, really resembles foreign.)

First boil the water which is to be used for the wine, and let
it again become perfectly cold; then put into a sound sweet cask
eight pounds of fine Malaga raisins for each gallon that is to be
used, taking out only the quite large stalks; the fruit and water
may be put in alternately until the cask is full, the raisins being
well pressed down in it; lay the bung lightly over, stir the
Wine every day or two, and keep it full by the addition of water
that has, like the first, been boiled, but which must always be
quite cold when it is used. So soon as the fermentation has
entirely ceased, which may be in from six to seven weeks, press
in the bung, and leave the wine untouched for twelve months ;
draw it off then into a clean cask, and fine it, if necessary, with
isinglass, tied in a muslin and suspended in it. We have not
ourselves had this receipt tried; but we have tasted wine made
by it which had been five years kept, and which so much re-
sembled a rich foreign wine that we could with difficulty believe
it was English-made.

To each gallon of water (boiled and left till cold) 8 Ibs. of
fine Malaga raisins; to stand 12 months; then to be drawn off
and fined.

Obs.—The refuse raisins make admirable vinegar if fresh
water be poured to them, and the cask placed in the sun.
March is the best time for making the wine.

ELDERBERRY WINE. (VERY GOOD.)

Strip the berries, which should be fresh, and gathered on a
dry day, clean from the stalks, and measure them into a tub or
large earthen pan. Pour boiling water on them, in the pro-
portion of two gallons to three of berries, press them down into
the liquor, cover them closely, and let them remain until the

554 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI.

following day; then strain the juice from the fruit through a
sieve or cloth, and, when this is done, squeeze from the berries

the greater part of the remaining juice, mix it with that which

was first poured off, measure the whole, add to it three pounds
of sugar, three quarters of an ounce of cloves, and one ounce of
ginger, for every gallon, and boil it twenty minutes, keeping
it thoroughly skimmed. Put it, when something more than
milk-warm, into a perfectly dry and sweet cask (or if but a
very small quantity of wine be made, into large stone bottles,
which answer the purpose quite well), fill this entirely, and set
the wine directly, with a large spoonful of new yeast dropped
into the bung-hole, and just stirred round in the liquor, or with
a small toasted crust thickly spread with yeast.*

VERY GOOD GINGER WINE.

Boil together, for half an hour, fourteen quarts of water,
twelve pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of the best ginger
bruised, and the thin rinds of six largelemons. Put the whole,
when milk-warm, into a clean dry cask, with the juice of the
lemons, and half a pound of sun raisins; add one large spoonful
of thick yeast, and stir the wine every day for ten days. When
it has ceased to ferment, add an ounce of isinglass, and a pint of
brandy; bung the wine close, and in two months it will be fit
to bottle, but must remain longer in the cask should it be too
sweet. When it can be obtained, substitute for the water in
this receipt cider fresh from the press, which will give a very
superior wine.

Water, 14 quarts; sugar, 12 pounds; lemon-rinds, 6 ; ginger,
3 lb.; 4 hour. Juice of lemons, 6; raisins, $ lb.; yeast, 1 spoon-

‘ful; isinglass, 1 0z.; brandy, 1 pint.

EXCELLENT ORANGE WINE.

Take half a chest of Seville oranges, pare off the rinds as
thin as possible, put two thirds of them into six gallons of
water, and let them remain for twenty-four hours. Squeeze
the oranges (which ought to yield seven or eight quarts of
juice) through a sieve into a pan, and as they are done throw
them into six gallons more of water; let them be washed well in
it with the hands, and then put into another six gallons of water
and left till the following day. For each gallon of wine, put

* In from fourteen to twenty days this wine will have fermented sufficiently ;
in three months it will be ready to drink; but it is better, and more wholesome,
when longer kept.

CHAP. XXVI.] SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 555

into the cask three pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, and the
liquor strained clear from the rinds and pulp. Wash these
again and again, should more liquor be required to fill the cask;
but do not at any time add raw water. Stir the wine daily until
the sugar is perfectly dissolved, and let it ferment from four to
five weeks ; add to it two bottles of brandy, stop it down, and in
twelve months it will be fit to bottle.

Obds.—The excellence of all wine depends so much upon the

fermentation being properly conducted, that unless the mode of

regulating this be understood by the maker, there will always
be great danger of failure in the operation. There is, we be-
lieve, an excellent work upon the subject by Mr. McCulloch,
which the reader who needs information upon it will do well to
consult : our own experience is too slight to enable us to mul-
tiply our receipts.

COUNSELLOR’S CUP.

Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar upon the rinds of two fine
China oranges, put it into an enamelled stewpan and pour on it
a pint of water; let these boil gently for two or three minutes,
then pour in. half a pint of China orange-juice mixed with that
of one lemon and previously strained through muslin; the
moment this begins to boil, pour it into a hot jug, and stir to
it half a pint of the best Cognac brandy.. Serve it immediately.
When preferred cold, prepare the syrup with the juice of the
fruit, cover it down in the jug, set it into ice, or into a very cool
place, and add the spirit only just before the cup is wanted for
table. Should the fruit be very acid, increase the proportion
ef sugar. A few slight strips of the rind of a Seville orange
cut very thin, would to many tastes be an agreeable addition to
ne beverage ; which should be made always with fresh sound
ruit.

Sugar, 4 ozs. (6-if needed) rasped rinds of China oranges, 2;
water, 1 pint: 3 minutes. Strained juice of China oranges
mixed with that of 1 large lemon, 4 pint; best Cognac brandy,
3 pint.

lObaes For a large cup these proportions must be doubled.
Sherry or Madeira substituted for the brandy, will make a
oes cold cup of this kind; and equal parts of well made

emonade, and of any good light white wine, thoroughly cooled
down, will give another agreeable beverage for warm weather ;
but a much smaller proportion of wine would better adapt it to
many tastes.

As
SR te

558 MODERN COOKERY. . [CHAP. XXVII.

CHAPTER XXVIL.

COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c.

TO ROAST COFFEE.

Persons who drink coffee habitually, and who are particular
about its flavour and quality, should purchase the best kind in
a raw state, and have it roasted at home. This can be done in
very small quantities by means of the inexpensive apparatus
shown above; the cost of this not exceeding seven or eight shil-
lings,* and the supply of charcoal needed for it being very
trifling indeed. The cylinder which contains the coffee should
be only half filled, and it should be turned rather slowly over
the fire, which should never be fierce, until a strong aromatic
smell is emitted ; the movement should then be quickened, as
the grain is in that case quite heated, and it will become too
highly coloured before it is roasted through, if slowly finished.
When it is of a fine, light, equal brown, which must be ascer-

* We must refer the reader to Mr. Livermore, 30, Oxford-street, for this, as
well as for the small French furnace, and other things which we have named, be-
cause we have supplied him with the model, which we brought from abroad ; and
which we have had used as we direct for several years.

CHAP. XXVII.| COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c, sf

- tained, until some little experience has been acquired, by sliding

back the door of the cylinder, and looking at it occasionally
towards the end of the process, spread it quickly upon a large
‘dish, and throw a folded cloth over it. Let it remain thus until
it is quite cold; then put it into canisters or bottles, and exclude
the air carefully from it. Mr. Webster, in his admirable Ency-
clopedia of Domestic Economy,* says, “Mr. Donovan recom-
mends that, instead of roasting the coffee in an atmosphere of its
own steam, it should first be dried in an iron pan, over a very
gentle fire, being constantly stirred until the colour becomes
yellow; it is then to
be pounded into coarse
fragments, by no means
too fine, each grain
being divided into four
or five parts only: it is
then to be transferred
to the roaster, and
scorched to the proper
degree.” This plan we
have not tried, because
we have found the other
to answer quite well;
though Mr. Donovan’s
might nevertheless
prove a very superior
one. «A roaster of the
form shown here may
be purchased for about fourteen shillings.

TO MAKE COFFEE.

It is more usual at the present day to filter than to boil coffee,
but many persons still prefer the latter mode. The degree of
strength which is to be given must of course depend on the taste
of those for whom it is prepared ; but it should always be good
when served to strangers, as a preference for weak coffee is very
rare, and in many instances it would be peculiarly unacceptable
to the drinkers, more especially so to those who have resided.
much abroad, where this beverage is in general much better
prepared than it is in England.

An ounce of the berries, if recently roasted, and ground at
the instant of using them, will make, with the addition of a

* (Longman and Co.) This work contains much useful and valuable informas.

tion on an infinity of subjects connected with Domestic Economy.

o—~.

558 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. xxviI.

pint of water, two
breakfast - cupsful of
sufficiently good coffee
for common family
use. It will be stronger
if slowly filtered in
what is called a perco-
lator, or coffee-biggin,
than if it be boiled.
Press the powder
closely down, measure
the proper quantity of
water into a;common
coffee-pot, or small
kettle, pour in suffi-
cient to just wet the

= coffee in the first in-
Patent Percolator with Spirit-Lamp. stance, and then add
sthe remainder slowly, keeping the water boiling all the time.

Let it run quite through before the top of the percolator is
lifted off, and serve it very hot with boiling milk or cream, or
with both; or with boilmg milk and cold cream. ‘The propor-
tion of coffee, after the first trial, can easily be increased or
diminished at will. To make French breakfast-coffee, pour
only a third as much of water on the powder, fill the cups two
thirds with good new boiling milk, then add the coffee, which
should be very strong. For the café noir served after dinner
in all French families put less water still (this is the very
essence of coffee, of which, however, not more than a small cup
about two thirds filled, and highly sweetened with sugar in
Jumps, is generally taken by each person), and serve it without
cream or milk, or any accompaniment, except white sugar-
candy in powder, or highly refined sugar in lumps. This is
drank immediately after the dinner; in families of moderate
rank, generally before they leave the table ; in more refined
life, it is served in the drawing-room the instant dinner is ended;
sometimes with liqueurs after it, but not invariably.

- To boil coffee and refine it, put the necessary quantity of
water into a pot which it will not fill by some inches; when it
boils stir in the coffee ; for unless this is at once moistened, it re- —
mains on the top and is liable to fly over. Give it one or two
strong boils, then raise it from the fire, and simmer it for ten
minutes only ; pour out a large cupful twice, hold it high over
the coffee pot and pour it in again, then set it on the hob for

CHAP. XXVII.] COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c. 559

ten minutes longer. It will be perfectly clear, unless mis-
managed, without any other fining. Should more, however, be
deemed necessary, a very small pinch of isinglass, or a clean egg-
shell, with a little of the white adhering to it, is the best that
can be used. (We cannot recommend the skin of any fish for
the purpose.) If tried, with the same proportions by both the
methods we have given, the reader will easily ascertain that
which answers best. ever use mustard to fine coffee with. It
is a barbarous custom of which we have heard foreigners who
have been in England vehemently complain!

Coffee, 2 ozs.; water, 1 quart. Filtered; or boiled 10
minutes; left to clear 10 minutes.

BURNT COFFEE.
(In France vulgarly called Gloria.)

Malkse some coffee as strong and as clear as possible, sweeten it
in the cup with white sugar almost to syrup, then pour brandy |
on the top gently over a spoon; set fire to it with a lighted
paper, and when the spirit is in part consumed, blow out the
flame and drink the gloria quite hot.

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.
(French Receipt.)

An ounce of chocolate, if good, will be sufficient for one
person. Rasp, and then boil it from
five to ten minutes with about four
tablespoonsful of water; when it is
extremely smooth add nearly a pint of
| new milk, give it another boil, stir it
| well, or mill it, and serve it directly.
| For water-chocolate use three quarters
| of a pint of water instead of the milk,
_ and send rich hot cream to table with
| it. The taste must decide whether it
| shall be made thicker or thinner.
| Chocolate, 2 ozs.; water, quarter-
| pint, or rather more; milk, 1} pint: 3 minute.
| Obs—The general reader will understand the use of the
_ chocolate-mill shown in the engraving with the pot; but to the
| uninitiated it may be as well to observe, that it is worked quickly
| round between both hands to give a fine froth to the chocolate.
_ It also serves in lieu of a whisk for working creams, or jellies,
toa froth or whip.

560 MODERN COOKERY. [[CHAP. XXVIII.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

BREAD.

TO PURIFY YEAST FOR BREAD OR CAKES,

Tue yeast procured from a public brewery is often so extremely
bitter that it can only be rendered fit for use by frequent
washings, and after these even it should be cautiously employed.
Mix it, when first brought in, with a large quantity of cold

water, and set it by until the following morning in a cool place;

then drain off the water, and stir the yeast up well with as
much more of fresh: it must again stand several hours before
the water can be poured clear from it. By changing this daily
in winter, and both night and morning in very hot weather,
the yeast may be preserved fit for use much longer than it
would otherwise be; and should it ferment rather less freely
after a time, a small portion of brown sugar stirred to it before
the bread is made will quite restore its strength.

German yeast, imported in a solid state, is now much sold in
London, and answers, we are told, remarkably well; but we
have not ourselves had an opportunity of proving it.

THE OVEN.

A brick oven, heated with wood, is far superior to any other
for baking bread, as well as for most other purposes, the heat
of an iron one being much less easy to. regulate; but those

attached to kitchen ranges are convenient, for the facility they

CHAP. XXVIII. ] BREAD. 561

afford at all times of baking in a small way. They are, however,
we should say, generally far from economical as regards the
proportion of fuel required to heat them; and the same objec-
tion may be made to the American oven also; the strong smell,
too, emitted from the iron ones, and diffused often entirely
through a house, is peculiarly unpleasant. A brick oven should
be well heated with faggot wood, or with a faggot, and two or
three solid logs;.and after it is cleared, the door should be
closely shut for quite half an hour before the baking com-
mences: the heat will then be well sustained for a succession of
bread, pies, cakes, and small pastry. . The servant who habitu-
ally attends at an oven will soon become acquainted with the
precise quantity of fuel which it requires, and all other
peculiarities which may be connected with it. In general more
time must be allowed to bake any thing in an iron, than in a
brick oven.

TO MAKE BREAD.

Every cook, and we might almost say, every female servant,
ought to be perfectly acquainted with the mode of making good
household bread ; and skill in preparing other articles of food
is poor compensation for ignorance upon this one essential point.
A very slight degree of attention, moreover, will enable any
person to succeed in it, and there is, consequently, small excuse
for those who neglect to render themselves properly acquainted
with the process.

The best flour will generally be found the cheapest in the end:
it should be purchased if possible from a miller who can be
depended on for supplying it good and unadulterated. Let it
be stored always in a dry place, as damp is very injurious to it.
If kept habitually in a chest, this should be entire.y emptied at
intervals, cleaned with great nicety, and not filled again until it
is perfectly dry. The kneading trough, tub, or pan, with every
thing else indeed used for the bread, or for the oven, should at
all times be kept scrupulously clean.

The yeast of mild home-brewed beer¢is the best that can be
procured, and requires no purifying; but it should be strained
through a hair-sieve after it is mixed with a portion of warm
milk, or water, before it is added to the flour.

Very rapid fermentation, which is produced by using more
than the necessary quantity of yeast, is by no means advan-
tageous to the bread, which not only becomes dry and stale
from it, but is of less sweet and pleasant flavour than that
which is more slowly fermented. In winter it should always be

562 MODERN COOKERY. [[CHAP. XXVIII.

placed near the fire, but never sufficiently so to become hot;
nor should it ever be allowed to become perfectly cold. Put —
half a bushel (more or less, according to the consumption of the
family) of flour into the kneading tub or trough, and hollow it
well in the middle; dilute a pint of yeast as it is brought from
the brewery, or half the quantity if it has been washed and
rendered solid, with four quarts or more of lukewarm milk or
water, or a mixture of the two; stir into it, from the surround-
ing part, with a wooden spoon, as much flour as will make a
thick batter; throw a little over it, and leave this, which is
called the leaven, to rise before proceeding further. In about
‘ an hour it will have swollen considerably, and have burst
through the coating of flour on the top; then pour in as much
more warm liquid as will convert the whole, with good
kneading, and this should not be spared, into a firm dough, of
which the surface should be entirely free from lumps or
- crumbs. Throw a cloth over, and let it remain until it has
risen very much a second time, which will be in an hour, or
something more, if the batch be large. Then work it lightly
up, and mould it into loaves of from two to three pounds
weight; send them directly to a well heated oven, and bake
them from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters.
Flour, } bushel; salt (when it is liked), 4 to 6 ozs.; yeast,
1 pint unwashed, or } pint if purified ; milk, or water, 2 quarts:
1 to 1} hour. Additional liquid as needed.

BORDYKE BREAD.
(Author's Receipt.)

Mix with a gallon of flour a large teaspoonful of fine salt,
make a hollow in the centre, and pour in two tablespoonsful
of solid, well-purified yeast, gradually diluted with about two
pints and a half of milk, and work it into a thick batter with

» the surrounding flour; dust a little on the top, and leave it to
rise from an hour to an hour and a half; then knead it up ~
with as much more warm skimmed milk as will render it
quite firm and smooth without being very stiff; let it rise
another hour, and divide it into three loaves; put them into
square tins slightly buttered, or into round baking pans, and
bake them about an hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven.
The dough can be formed into household loaves if preferred,
and sent to the oven in the usual way. When a finer and

,more spongy kind of bread is required for immediate eating,
substitute new milk for skimmed, dissolve in it about an ounce
of butter, leave it more liquid when the sponge is set, and

CHAP. XXVIII. | BREAD. 563

let the whole be lightly kneaded into a lithe dough: the
bread thus made will be excellent when new, and for a day or
iad it is baked, but it will become dry sooner than the
other.

Flour, 1 gallon ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; skimmed milk, 23 pints:
to rise from 1 to 1} hour. Additional milk, 1 to 2 pints: to
rise 1 hour. 3 loaves, baked 14 hour.

Obs. 1.—A few spoonsful of cream will wonderfully improve
either of the above receipts, and sweet butter-milk, substituted.
for the other, will give to the bread the shortness of a cake:
we would particularly recommend it for trial when it can be
procured,

Obs. 2.—For an invalid, especially when the digestion is im-
paired, butter should be altogether omitted from the bread; and
eggs, which are often added to the finer sorts of rolls, are better
avoided also.

Obs. 3.—We must repeat our caution against milk or water
of a scalding heat being mixed ever with the yeast: it should
be warm, rather more so than when taken from the cow, but
not much.

BROWN BREAD.

Make this by either of the foregoing receipts, with meal, as
it is called (that is to say, the wheat just as it is ground, either
separated from the coarse bran or not, according to the quality
of the bread required), instead of flour. It ferments easily,
and does not therefore require a very full proportion of yeast ;
and it absorbs more moisture than the flour; it also retains it
longer, if properly baked. The loaves should be well soaked in
the oven, but not over dried.

Obs.—The best bread we ever tasted was made in great part
with rye-flour : this was in a provincial town in France.

POTATO BREAD.

One pound of good mealy potatoes, steamed or boiled very
dry, in the ordinary way, or prepared by Captain Kater’s
receipt (see Chapter XV.), and rubbed quite hot, through a
coarse sieve, into a couple of pounds of flour, with which they
should be well mixed, will produce excellent bread, which will
remain moist much longer than wheaten bread made as usual.
The yeast should be added immediately after the potatoes.
An ounce or two of butter, an egg and some new milk, will
conyert this bread into yery superior rolls.

564 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP, XXVIII.

COCOA-NUT BREAD.

Hither mix with the flour the same proportion of the nut,
finely grated, as for the biscuit receipt, and then proceed as for
other bread, or merely use very strongly flavoured cocoa-nut
milk to make the dough: the bread will be excellent.

GENEVA ROLLS.

Break down very small three ounces of butter into a couple
of pounds of flour; add a little salt, and set the sponge with
a large tablespoonful of solid yeast, mixed with a pint of new
milk, and a tablespoonful or more of strong saffron water ; let
it rise for a full hour, then stir to a couple of well-beaten eggs
as much hot milk as will render them lukewarm, and wet the
rolls with them to a light, lithe dough; leave it from half to
three quarters of an hour longer, mould it into small rolls,
brush them with beaten yolk of egg, and bake them from
twenty minutes to half an hour. The addition of six ounces of
good sugar, three of butter, halfa pound or more of currants,
the grated rind of a large lemon, and a couple of ounces of can-
died orange-rind, will convert these into excellent buns. When
the flavour of the saffron is not liked, omit it altogether. Only
so muck should be used at any time as will give a rich colour
to the bread.

Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs. ; solid yeast, 1 large tablespoonful
(saffron, 1 teaspoonful; water, less than a quarter pint); new
milk, 1 pint: 1 hour, or more. 2 eggs, more milk: 3 hour:
baked 20 to 30 minutes.

RUSKS.

Break very small six ounces of butter into a couple of
pounds of fine dry flour, and mix them into a lithe paste, with
two tablespoonsful of mild beer yeast, three well beaten eggs,
and nearly helfa pint of warm new milk. When it has risen
to its full height knead it smooth, and make it into very small
loaves or thick cakes, cut with a round cake-cutter; place
them on a floured tin, and let them stand in a warm place, to
prove, from ten to twenty minutes before*they are set into the
oven. Bake them about a quarter of an hour; divide them
while they are still warm, and put them into a very slow oven
to dry. When they are crisp quite through they are done.
Four teaspoonsful of sifted sugar must be added when sweet-
ened rusks are preferred.

Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 6 ozs.; yeast, 2 tablespoonsful; eggs,

new milk, nearly half a pint: baked 4 hour.

CHAP. XXVIII. | BREAD. 565

CRUSTS TO SERVE WITH CHEESE.

Take a half-baked loaf from the oven, and tear it into small
rough bits with a couple of forks; lay these on a tin, and put
them back into the oven for ten minutes. If a light loaf be
made for the purpose, with a couple of ounces of butter and
new milk they will quite resemble rusks. A sweet light cake
pulled apart in the same manner is likewise very good.

EXCELLENT BREAD CRUST FOR HOT PIES OR TARTS.
Roll out square a pound of good white dough which is just
ready for the oven; make four ounces of butter into a ball, put
it in the centre of the paste, fold the corners well over it,
and roll it out lightly two or three times, folding the ends
always into the centre. Use it immediately. We have had
this paste tried only with the Bordyke bread of page 562, which
was made entirely with milk, and we have found it extremely
good ; but an additional ounce of butter, or even more, may be
required with common dough. Meat well seasoned, and folded
in it in the form of a turnover, and baked about half an hour
answers well.
White bread dough, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 Ib., or more; little salt.

ENGLISH BRIOCHE, AND BRIOCHE-RUSKS.

Mix into a very light dough half a pound of flour with an
ounce of purified yeast, and five or six tablespoonsful of warm
milk or cream. While this is rising, make a pound of flour into
rich cream-crust, or the finest puff-paste, by the receipt for
either in Chapter XVI.; and when the leaven is double its
original size, mingle them perfectly as directed for brioche
paste, page 339, and leave the mass to rise for four or five
hours; then mould it lightly into small brioche-shapes, or-roll
it an inch thick, and form it into rusks with a round paste-
cutter. Wash the tops with beaten egg, and bake them in a
somewhat brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes, or until they
are well baked and well coloured. The rusks must be divided,
and put again into the oven when the heat has subsided a little,
and left in it until they are very crisp, and equally browned.
The whole -of the paste may be baked in a round cake-mould,
and served in the same manner as the Solimemne of page 519.

Flour, 4 1b; yeast, 1 oz.; milk or cream, 5 or 6 tablespoons-
ful: 3} to 3 hour. Cream, or puff-paste: flour, 1 lb.; other
ingredients as given in receipt: 4 to 5 hours, Baked, in small
shapes, 10 to 15 minutes; in large, 1 to 1} hour.

APPENDIX.

CHERRY-BRANDY.
(Tappington Everard Recezpt.) ;

Fill to about two thirds of their depth, some wide-necked
bottles with the small cherries called in the markets brandy-
blacks; pour in sufficient sifted sugar to fill up more than half
of the remaining space, and then as much good French brandy as
will cover the fruit, and reach to the necks of the bottles. Cork
them securely, and let them stand for two months before they
are opened: the liqueur poured from the cherries will be excel-

lent, and the fruit itself very good.

BRANDIED MORELLA CHERRIES.

Let the cherries be ripe, freshly gathered, and the finest that
can be had; cut off half the length of the stalks, and drop them
gently into clean dry quart bottles with wide necks; leave in
each sufficient space for four ounces of pounded white sugar
candy (or of brown, if better liked) ; fill them up entirely with
the best French brandy, and cork them closely : the fruit will
not shrivel if thus prepared. A few cherry, or apricot kernels,
or a small portion of cinnamon, can be added when they are
considered an improvement.

PEACHES IN BRANDY.
(Rotterdam Receipt.)

Prepare and stew some fine full-flavoured peaches by the
receipt of page 430, but with two ounces more of sugar to the
half pint of water; when they are tender put them, with their
syrup, into glass or new stone jars, which they should only half
fill; and when they are quite cold pour in white, or very pale,
French brandy to within an inch and a half of the brims: a few
peach or apricot kernels can be added to them. The jars must
be corked down.

APPENDIX. 567

e CHANTILLY BASKET.

The form of these is shown by the plate at page 444, but they
can be varied to the taste, and made with cakes of different sizes.
it is essential to keep them very dry after they are fastened
together, and, as we have before observed, they should be filled
only the instant before they are sent to table. They may first
be lined with wafer-paper: a pint and a half of cream, when
flavoured and whisked, will fill a large basket of this kind. .

TO MAKE ORANGE BASKETS FOR JELLY.

The oranges for these should be large. First, mark the handle
of the basket evenly across the stalk end of the fruit with the
back of a small knife, or with a silver one, and let it be quite
half an inch wide; then trace a line across from one end of the

_handle to the other, exactly in the middle of the orange, and
when the other side is marked in the same way, cut just through
the rind with the point of a pen knife, being careful not to
pierce the fruit itself; next, with a tea or dessert spoon, take off
the quartered rind on either side of the handle; pass a penknife
under the handle itself; work the point of a spoon gently be-
tween the orange and the basket, until they are separated in
every part; then take the fruit between the thumb and fingers,
and press it carefully out through one of the spaces on either
side of the handle.

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS. (GOOD.)

Take a full half-pint of freshly-gathered strawberries, with-
out the stalks: first crush, and then mix them with two ounces
and a half of powdered sugar; stir to them, by degrees, four
well-whisked eggs, beat the mixture a little, and put it into
pattypans lined with fine paste: they should be only three
parts filled. Bake the tartlets from ten to twelve minutes.

RASPBERRY PUFFS.

Roll out thin some fine puff-paste, cut it in rounds or squares
of equal size, lay some raspberry jam into each, moisten the
edges of the paste, fold and press them together, and bake the
putts from fifteen to eighteen minutes. Strawberry, or any other
jam will serve for them equally well.

CREAMED TARTLETS.
Line some pattypans with very fine paste, and put into each

568 APPENDIX.

a layer of apricot jam; on this pour some thick boiled custard, |
or the pastry cream of page 361. Whisk the whites of a couple
of eggs to a solid froth, mix a couple of tablespoonsful of sifted
sugar with them, lay this icing lightly over the tartlets, and
bake them in a gentle oven from twenty to thirty minutes,
unless they should be very small, when less time must be allowed
for them.

NORFOLK CHEESE CAKES.

Beat well together until they are perfectly smooth, three
quarters of a pound of cheese curd and five ounces of butter ;
add to them two ounces of almonds, of which five or six should
be bitter ones, four ounces of sifted sugar, four eggs, leaving
out two of the whites, three spoonsful of cream, two of brandy,
a little mace or nutmeg, and if candied peel and currants are
considered an improvement, one ounce and a half of the first,
and three of the latter. Bake the cheese-cakes, in pattypans
lined with paste, for twenty minutes: the curd may be passed
through a sieve before it is used.

Curd, 3 lb.; butter, 5 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; almonds, 2 ozs. ;
egos, 4 yolks, 2 whites; cream, 3 tablespoonsful; brandy, 2;
little mace or nutmeg; currants (if added), 3 ozs.; candied
orange or lemon-rind, 1} oz. : 20 minutes.

STORE MIXTURE FOR LEMON TARTLETS,
Which will remain good for a year or two.

Put into a very clean stewpan or saucepan a quarter of a pound
of fresh butter, a pound of good sugar, beaten to powder, the
yolks of six eggs, and the whites of four, whisked and strained,
the grated rinds of two large lemons, and the strained juice of
three ; and keep the whole stirred over a gentle fire until it is as
thick as good cream. When it is quite cold, pour it into small
jars or pans, and tie paper over it. When required for table,
put it into pattypans lined with thin puff-paste, and bake the
cheesecakes from fifteen to eighteen minutes. This is a very
convenient store, especially quite in the country, where it is
sometimes difficult to obtain the fresh fruit. The proportions
may be varied so that the lemon shall predominate more or
less, according to the taste; and the rinds may be rasped on
part of the sugar before it is pounded; or they may be boiled
tender, and beaten to. a paste previously to being mixed with
the other ingredients: but the receipt, as we haye given it, is
exceedingly good.

ie 4

APPENDIX. 569

Fresh butter, 3 Ib.; sugar, 1 lb.; yolks 6 eggs; whites 4;
rinds 2 lemons; juice of 3.

PUFFS A LA COLBURN. (EXTREMELY GOOD.)

Make first a good pastry cream (see Créme Patissiére, page
337), with three quarters of a pint of cream, and as much new
milk, or with either by itself,-as may be most convenient ;
though a portion of the former is desirable, as these puffs should
be rich, though very light. After having mixed the ingredients
in the usual way, and thickened them, add to the créme patis-
stére three ounces of fresh butter cut small or clarified, and
four of pounded sugar. When the mixture is nearly cold stir
to it four ounces of ratafias crusted to powder, and add a little
sugar which has been rasped on a citron, or on a Seville orange; —
or in lieu of this, flavour the milk or cream in the first instance
with from a third to half of a pod of vanilla, as directed for Nes-
selrodde cream (page 441); then strain, and bring it again to
a full boil before it is poured to the flour and eggs. Make a.
delicate cream crust (see page 361), roll it very thin in rounds
of equal size, and six inches in diameter; lay in some of the
cream; moisten the edges; fold and press them together, very
securely; ice the tops lightly with the whites of a couple of
eggs beaten to snow, and mixed with three ounces of sugar;
strew over them rose-coloured almonds (see page 513), not very
finely chopped, and bake them in a moderate oven from twenty- .
five to thirty minutes.

For variety, pistachio-nuts, merely blanched and sliced, may
be sprinkled over them, instead of almonds, and will have a
very good effect.

RICE A LA VATHEK.

Blanch, and then
pound carefully to the
smoothest possible
paste four ounces of
fine Jordan almonds
and half a dozen bitter
ones, moistening them
with a few drops of water to prevent their oiling. Stir tothem
by slow degrees a quart of boiling milk, which should be new,
wring it again closely from them through a thin cloth, which
will absorb it less than a tammy, and set it aside to cool. Wash
thoroughly, and afterwards soak for about ten minutes, seven

570 APPENDIX,

ounces of Carolina rice, drain it well from the water, pour the
almond-milk upon it, bring it very slowly to boil, and simmer
it softly until it is tolerably tender, taking the precaution to stir
it often at first that it may not gather into lumps nor stick to
the pan. Add to it a couple of ounces of fresh butter and four
of pounded sugar, and when it is perfectly tender and dry,
proceed with it exactly as for Gabrielle’s pudding, page 403 ;
but in moulding the rice press it closely and evenly in, and
hollow it in the centre, leaving the edge an inch thick in every
part, that it may not break in the oven. The inside must be
slightly brushed with butter before it is baked, to prevent its
becoming too dry, but a morsel of white blotting paper will
take up any portion that may remain in it. When it is ready
to serve, pour into it a large jarful of apricot jam, and send it
immediately to table. If well made it is delicious. It may be
served cold, (though this is less usual,) and decorated with

small thin leaves of citron-rind, cut with a minute paste-cutter. —

The same preparation may be used also for Gabrielle’s pud-
ding, and filled with hot preserved fruit, the rice scooped from
the inside being mixed with the syrup,

CROUSTADES, OR SWEET PATTIES A LA MINUTE.

Slice some firm stale bread, about half an inch thick, and
with a small round or fluted paste-cutter take from it as many
croustades as will be required for a dish; mark the centres
with a smaller cutter, leaving a rim of equal width all round;
scoop out the insides, and fry them in good butter a pale brown;
drain and dry them well, and fill them with hot apple marma-

lade, or with any warm preserve. The croustades may like- .

wise be filled with a good mince of mutton, hare, or any brown
meat, and served in the first course. To make Dresden patties,
or croustades, pare the crust neatly from one or two French
rolls, slice off the ends, and divide the remainder into as many
patties as the size Of the rolls will allow; hollow them in the
centre, dip them into milk or thin cream, and lay them on a
drainer over a dish; pour a spoonful or two more of milk over
them at intervals, but not sufficient to cause them to break;
brush them with egg, rasp the c1ust of the rolls over them, fry
and drain them well, fill them with a good mince, or with
stewed mushrooms or oysters, and serve them very hot upon a
napkin ; they may be filled for the second course with fruit or
preserve. ‘They are very good

pt ee * is

APPENDIX. 571

CRISPED POTATOES, OR POTATO-RIBBONS.
(To serve with Cheese.)

Wash well, and wipe, some potatoes of good flavour; cut
them up into slices of from half to a whole inch thick, free
them from the skins, and then pare them round and round in
very thin, and very long ribbons, like the dressed cucumber of
page 312. Lay them into a pan of cold water, and half an
hour before they are wanted for table lift them on to a sieve
that they may be well drained. Fry them in very hot lard,
butter, or clarified dripping, of the purest quality, until they
are quite crisp and lightly browned; drain and dry them on a
soft cloth, pile them in a hot dish, strew over them a mixed
seasoning of salt and cayenne in fine powder, and serve them
without delay. For the second course, dress them in the same
manner, but omit the cayenne. Five or six minutes will fry |
them. Some cooks tie them in fanciful bows and knots, before
they are laid into the water.

SAVOURY TOASTS.

Cut some slices of bread free from crust, about half an inch
thick, and two inches and a half square ; butter the tops thickly,
spread a little mustard on them, and then cover them with a
deep layer of grated cheese and ham seasoned rather highly
with cayenne ; fry them in good butter, but do not turn them —
in the pan; lift them out, and place them in a Dutch oven for
rae or four minutes to dissolve the cheese: serve them very

ot.

To 4 tablespoonsful of grated English cheese, an equal
portion of very finely minced, or grated ham ; but of Parmesan,
or Gruyére, 6 tablespoonsful.

CROQUETTES OF SHRIMPS. (ENTREE.)

Shell quickly from a quart to three pints of fine fresh
brown shrimps; chop them a little with a very sharp knife;
put four ounces of them into a mortar and pound them to the
smoothest paste, with the addition of an ounce and a half of
fresh butter, a seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, and a
very small quantity of salt. Pour boiling, on an ounce and a
half of the crumb of a stale loaf sliced thin, sufficient milk or
cream to just cover it; let it soak for a quarter of an hour,
then turn it into a small saucepan, and stir it over a clear and
gentle fire until it forms a quite dry paste; let it become cold;

572 APPENDIX.

then add it to, and pound it with, the shrimps, and when they
are perfectly blended mix well with them the unbeaten yolks
of two eggs, and the whisked white of one. Set the mixture
aside in a cool place, for a short time to become firm; then
dust a little flour upon the fingers and mould the croquettes
smoothly into small balls, or olive- -shapes; roll them gently in
egg, and in the finest bread-crumbs, and fry them from five to
seven minutes, or give them first two minutes boil, drain them
on a sieve, and when they are again quite cold, egg, crumb, and
fry them: they are, we think, rather firmer with the previous
oaching.

Shelled shrimps, 4 ozs.; fresh butter, 14 oz. (2 ozs. if the
paste will not be too moist with it); mace, nutmeg, and ca-
yenne mixed, 1 large saltspoonful; Wttle salt; yolks 2 eggs,
white of 1: fried 5 to 7 minutes, or poached 2 minutes, fried
4 to 5.

Obs.—These proportions are only sufficient for a very small
dish of the croquettes, which are very delicate.

TRUFFLED OMLET. (ENTREMETS.)
Whisk very lightly half'a dozen fresh eggs, throw in a sea-
soning of cayenne, in very fine powder, and a large saltspoon-
ful of salt; dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a

ti ng pan, and when it begins to boil, throw into the eggs a
ae earplc of large bottled truffles * minced very small, then proceed

as for a common omlet (see page 410). If fresh truffles be

used, they must be stewed tender in a little butter after they

are minced before they are stirred to the eggs.

A POIVRADE SAUCE.

Flavour some rich brown gravy highly with ham and oe
lots, by the receipt for Hspagnole (page 88), and add to it,
before it is dished, a high seasoning of pepper, and half a wine-
glassful of vinegar.

AN ENGLISH POIVRADE SAUCE.
Mince a couple of ounces of mild onions, and take as. much

* The young housekeeper must be warned that the bottled truffles when once
opened must be used immediately ; ; or weil drained from the liquid and thrown
into ciarified butter, stewed in it for a minute or two, put into clean jars, and
perfectly covered with the butter, which should be poured on them free from
any liquid they may have yielded. ‘They will also keep any length of time if
minced and potted in the butter. As they are expensive, so far as regards their
first cost, though a small quantity will impart a high degree of savour, all pre-
caution should be taken against their being spoiled or wasted.

APPENDIX: ae 56

lean of ham cut into small dice, and either lightly fry them or
stew them gently in a small slice of butter, until they are
equally coloured; stir in half a teaspoonful of flour, and then
pour to them by degrees half a pint of boiling broth or brown
gravy; boil the whole softly for half an hour, strain, skim,
and re-heat it with pepper and vinegar as above.

THE POETS RECEIPT FOR SALAD.*

“ Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve
Unwonted softness to the salad give;
Of mordent mustard, add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment which bites so soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
To add a double quantity of salt ;
Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
And once with vinegar, procured from town ;
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs; ©
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
And lastly, in the favour’d compound toss
A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce: )
Then, though green turtle fail, though venison’s tough,
And ham and turkey are not boiled enough,
Serenely full, the epicure may say—
Fate cannot harm me,—TI have dined to-day.”

Two well-boiled potatoes, passed through a sieve; a tea-
spoonful of mustard ; two teaspoonsful of salt; one of essence of
anchovy; about a quarter of a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped
onions, well bruised into the mixture; three tablespoonsful of
oil ; one of vinegar ; the yolks of two eggs, hard boiled. Stir up
the salad immediately before dinner, and stir it up thoroughly.

“ N. B.—As this salad is the result of great experience and re-
flection, it is hoped young salad makers will not attempt to make
any improvements upon it.”

LOBSTER SALAD. (ENTREMETS.)

First, prepare a sauce with the coral of a hen lobster, pounded
and rubbed through a sieve, and very gradually mixed with a

* Note. This receipt, though long privately circulated amongst the friends. and
acquaintance of its highly distinguished and regretted author, now (with permis-
sion) appears for the first time in print. We could not venture to deviate by a
word from the original, but we would suggest, that the mixture forms almost a
substitute for salad, instead of a mere dressing. It is, however, an admirable
compound for those to whom the slight flavouring of onion is not an objection.

574 APPENDIX.

good mayonnaise, remoulade, or English salad-dressing. (See
pages 111—113.) Next, half fill the bowl or more with small
salad herbs, or with young lettuces finely shred, and arrange
upon them spirally, or in a chain, alternate slices of the flesh of —
a large lobster, or of two middling-sized ones, and some hard
boiled eggs cut thin and evenly. Leave a space in the centre,
pour in the sauce, heap lightly some small salad on the top, and
send the dish immediately to table. The coral of a second ~
lobster may be intermingled with the white flesh of the fish
with very good efiect ; and the foreed eggs of page 424 may be
placed at intervais round the edge of the bowl as a decoration,
and an excellent accompaniment as well. Another mode of
making the salad is to lay the split bodies of the fish round the
bowl, and the claws, freed carefully from the shells, arranged
high in the centre on the herbs ; the soft part of the bodies may
be mixed with the sauce when it is liked; but the colour wili
not then be good.

Obs.—The addition of cucumber in ribbons (see Author’s —
Receipt, page 312), laid lightly round it, is always an agreeable
one to lobster salad: they may previously be sauced, and then
drained from their dressing a little.

‘GENTLE CRITIC’S TOURTE A LA CREME,

To make this kind

of tart, (which is both

_ delicate eating, and
- {=== of very tasteful ap-
ee pearance, ) in the best
and easiest manner,
ad ? a couple of fluted
Form of Tourte. cutters should be had,
like those described in the receipt for a vol-au-vent, page
347. Roll off some good puff, or cream-crust to about the
third of an inch thick, and with the larger tin shape, cut
two portions of equal size ; press the small cutter quite through
the second of these, and gently disengage it from the border of
paste which it will form; then, after having moistened the
under side of this equally all round, lay it very evenly upon
the other part of the paste and press it with the blade of a
knife just sufficiently to make it adhere; set the tart into a mo-
derate oven and when it appears perfectly baked, which it will
usually be in from twenty to thirty minutes, draw it out, and
fill it with apricot, or green-gage jam, or with any other rich
preserve; let it become quite cold, and then heap lightly over

APPENDIX. 575

it some well-drained whipped cream, which has been slightly
flavoured and sweetened. The edge may be glazed when it is
first taken from the oven in the same manner as the vols-au-
vents ala Howitt ; or the whipped cream being omitted, small
leaves of almond-paste may be laid round it, and others over
the preserve; or it may be iced with a white icing, and orna-
mented with rose-coloured grains of sugar; and to convert it
into an excellent enirée (or first course dish) it may be filled with
stewed oysters in a rich white sauce, or with fricasseed lobster,
or scallops of fowl; but the sauce of either must be thick.

Obs.—The fluted cutters * which we have recommended for
it are not indispensable in making this tourte, which can be
shaped with plain ones, or neatly trimmed, on an emergency,
to the size of the dish in which it is to be served, with a knife,
‘the border being also evenly cut with one.

A PEAS PUDDING. ,S
(To serve with boiled pork.)

Separate carefully from a pint of good mellow split peas, all
that are worm-eaten ; wash the remainder well, and soak them
for a night in plenty of soft water. The following day tie them
up in a thick pudding cloth, giving them room to swell, cover
them well with cold soft water and boil them. gently from two
hours to two and a half: if they are not then quite tender,
they are of bad quality, and cannot be rendered so. Lift them
into a cullender, untie the cloth, and crush them to a paste with
a wooden spoon, stir in a good slice of butter, and a seasoning ©
of pepper and salt, tie them up again very tight, and boil them
for half an hour; turn the pudding gently into a dish that it
may not break, and serve it as hot as possible. This is the com-
mon old-fashioned mode of preparing a peas pudding, and many
persons prefer it to the more modern one which follows. Soak,
and boil the peas as above, drain the water well from them
before the cloth is untied, rub them through a cullender or
sieve, mix the seasoning and the butter thoroughly with them,
then add gradually a couple, or even three well whisked eggs,
tie the mixture tightly and closely in a floured cloth, and boil
it for one hour. .

Good split peas, 1 pint; soaked in soft water 1 night. Boiled
2 to 2: hours. Butter, 1 oz.: salt, pepper: boil again 20 to 30
minutes. Or: butter, 14 0z.; eggs, 2 or 3: boiled 1 hour.

* These are so generally useful in making pastry, and forming croustades, &c.,
that the cook should not be without them.

576 APPENDIX.

Obs.—When soft water cannot be had, a small teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda must be stirred into that in which the peas
are boiled. They must have room to swell or they will be —
hard; but if too much be given them they will be watery and
it will be difficult to convert them into a pudding at all.”

THE POOR CURATE’S PUDDING.

This is but a variation of the pudding, a la Paysanne of page
408, but as it is both good and inexpensive it may be acceptable
to some of our readers. Wash, wipe, and pare some quickly
grown rhubarb-stalks, cut them into short lengths, and put a
layer of them into a deep dish with a spoonful or two of Lisbon
sugar ; cover these evenly with part of a penny roll sliced thin ;
add another thick layer of fruit and sugar, then one of bread,
then another of the rhubarb; cover this last with a deep layer
of fine bread-crumbs well mingled with about a tablespoonful
of sugar, pour a little clarified butter over them, and send the
pudding to a brisk oven. From thirty to forty minutes will
bake it. Good boiling apples sliced, sweetened, and flavoured
with nutmeg or grated lemon-rind, and covered with well but-
tered slices of bread, make an excellent pudding of this kind.

THE CAVALIER’S BROIL.

Half roast or stew, or parboil, a small, or moderate-sized
shoulder. of mutton; lift it into a hot dish, score it on both
sides down to the bone, season it well with fine salt and cayenne
or pepper, and finish cooking it upon the gridiron over a brisk
fire. Skim the fat from any gravy that may have flowed from
it, and keep the dish which contains it quite hot to receive
the joint again. Warm a cupful of pickled mushrooms, let a
part of them be minced, and strew them over the broil when it
is ready to be served; arrange the remainder round it, andsend
it instantly to table. The reader will scarcely need to be told
that this is a most excellent dish.

VEAL GOOSE. —
(City of London receipt.)

“This is made with the upper part of the flank of a loin of
veal, (or sometimes of the fillet) covered with a stuffing of
sage and onions, then rolled, and roasted or broiled. It is served
with brown gravy and apple sauce, is extremely savoury, and
has many admirers.” We transcribe the exact receipt for this
dish, which was procured for us from a house in the city, which
is famed for it. We had it tested with the skin of the best end

APPENDIX. es vie

of a fine neck of veal, from which it was pared with something
_ more than an-inch depth of the flesh adhering to it. It was
roasted one hour, and answered extremely well. It is a conve-
nient mode of dressing the flank of the veal when the fiesh is
required free from skin and bone for other purposes.

TO DRESS REIN DEER TONGUES.

These, from being highly dried, require long soaking, but
they are very finely flavoured, and excellent eating if well
dressed. Lay them into plenty of water for a night, and on the
following day take them out, for three or four hours, then lay
them again into fresh water, and towards evening let them be
for some hours longer exposed to the air. At night lay them
into more fresh water, take them out in the morning, scrape
and clean them well, and they will be ready to boil. Cover
them well with cold water, bring them gently to a boil, clear
off the scum perfectly as it rises, and simmer them for about
two hours, These tongues may be purchased at any good
Italian warehouse.

CURRANT SHRUB.

' Dissolve in a couple of quarts of white, black, or red currant
juice, a pound and a half of sugar of the best quality ; then stir
to them, a gallon of old Jamaica rum, and stop the vessel
closely; leave it for a night, and the foliowing day filter the
shrub through blotting paper, and pour it into clean, dry
bottles, which should be well corked. It may be kept for any
length of time.

SAUSAGE SOUP.
(Swedish Receipt.)

Strip away the decayed leaves from a couple of moderate-
sized winter cabbages, or savoys, cut out the stalks, wash and
soak the vegetables well, and slice them very thin into a pan of
spring water; drain them on a sieve, or in a large cullender,
and drop them into three quarts of boiling beef-broth, or soup ;
add a couple of pounds of sausages in links, and boil the whole
gently for half an hour; before it is served, throw in a good
seasoning of black pepper, and as much salt as may be required.
Prick the sausages before they are put into the soup to prevent
their bursting. Mutton or veal broth may be used for this
soup instead of bouillon. ,

Paw

APPENDIX:

cr
a2
ie)

CAL¥F’S LIVER STOVED, OB STEWED.

From three to four pounds of the best part of the liver will
be sufficient for a dish of moderate size. First lard it quite
through by the directions of page 166, with large lardoons,
rolled in a seasoning of spice, and of savoury herbs very finely
minced; then lay it into a stewpan or saucepan just fitted to its
size, and pour in about half a pint of broth or gravy; heat it
very gently, and throw in, when it begins to simmer, a sliced
carrot, a small onion cut in two, a small bunch of parsley, and
a blade of mace; stew the liver as softly as possible over a very
slow fire from two hours and a half to three hours; thicken the
gravy with a little brown roux (see page 96), or with a dessert-
spoonful of browned flour; add a couple of glasses of white
wine, and a little spice if needed, and serve it very hot, after
having taken out the herbs and vegetables.

The liver may be stewed without being larded; it may like-
wise be browned all over in a carefully made roux, before the
gravy is poured to it: this must then be made to boil, and be
added in small portions, the stewpan being well shaken round
as each is thrownin. The wine can be altogether omitted ; or
a wineglassful of port, mixed with a little lemon-juice, may take
the place of sherry. After the liver has been wiped very dry,
minced herbs may be strewed thickly over it before it is laid
into the stewpan ; and it may be served in its own gravy, or
with a sauce piquante.

Liver, 3 to 4 lbs.: 2 to 3 hours.

SUGAR-GLAZINGS, AND ICINGS,
(For Fine Pastry and Cakes.)

The clear glazing which resembles barley sugar, and which
requires to be as carefully guarded from damp, is given by just
dipping the surface of the pastry into liquid caramel (see page
553); or by sifting sugar thickly over it directly it is drawn
from the oven, and melting it down with a salamander, or red-
hot shovel held closely over it; or by setting it again into an
oven sufficiently heated to dissolve the sugar ; though this latter
method is not so well, as there is danger from it of the crust
being scorched. To make a fine white or coloured icing, whisk,
as directed at page 514, the whites of a couple of fresh eggs to a ©
solid froth, then, with a wooden spoon or spatula, mix gradually
with them eight ounces of the best sugar, which has been dried,
and sifted through a fine sieve; work them together for a

APPENDIX. 579

minute or two, and add less than a teaspoonful of strained
lemon-juice; spread it evenly over the cake or pastry, and dry
it very gently indeed, either in a quite cool oven, or in a meat
screen placed before the fire. From the difference in the size of
eggs, a little more or less of sugar may be required for this
icing. It may be coloured with a very few drops of prepared
cochineal, or of spinage-juice, to give it a rose, or pale green
tint.

Whites of eggs beaten to snow, 2; sugar, 8 ozs.; lemon-
juice, small teaspoonful.

TO DRESS AND TO CHOOSE MACCARONI, AND OTHER ITALIAN
PASTES.

After careful and repeated trial of different modes of dress-
ing various kinds of maccaroni, we find that in preparing them
with Parmesan cheese, unmixed with any of a more mellow
nature, there is always a chance of failure, from its tendency,
which we have elsewhere noticed, to gather into lumps; we
would therefore recommend the inexperienced reader to sub-
stitute for it in part, or altogether, any finely flavoured English
cheese ; and the better to ensure its blending smoothly with the
other ingredients (when neither white, nor any other thickened
sauce is used with it), to dissolve the butter, and to stir to it a
small teaspoonful of flour, before any liquid is added, then care~
fully to mix with it the cream or gravy, as directed for Sauce
Tournée, page 96, and to give this a boil before the maccaroni
and cheese are added: if gently tossed as these become hot, the
whole will be smooth, and the cheese will adhere properly to
the paste. The Neapolitan maccaroni, of which the pipes are
large, and somewhat thin, should be selected always for the
table in preference to the Genoa, which is less in size, but more
substantial, and therefore better suited to the formation of the
various fanciful timbales, for which it is usually chosen. We
have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless very
skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in
much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the
aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks.
We have already noticed the ribbon maccaroni (or /azanges),
which is very good, and quickly boiled; but we have not
mentioned the maccaroncint, which, though not much larger
than a straw, requires more time to render it soft. ‘The
Naples vermicelli, which is much larger than any other, may
be dressed like maccaroni: it is also preferable to the smaller
kind for soups. All these pastes should be of a yellowish

580 APPENDIX.

colour, and by no means white. It is desirable to purchase
them at a good foreign warehouse, from which they will usually
be supplied of first-rate quality. .

Naples maccaroni, to boil nearly or quite, # hour; Genoa
maccaroni, nearly 1 hour, sometimes longer; maccaroncini, 20
to 25 minutes; Naples vermicelli, about 20 minutes.

Obs.—The time named here is for boiling the various pastes
in water: in milk or soup it will vary somewhat from this.

VENETIAN CAKE, OR CAKES.
(Super-excellent.)

Take of fine Jordan almonds, blanched and well dried at the
mouth of a cool oven, or in a sunny window, seven ounces, full
weight, and one of bitter almonds with them; pound the whole
to a perfect paste with a few drops of white of egg or orange-
flower water; then mix them thoroughly with one pound of
flour and eight ounces of butter (which should be cool and firm,
or it will render the paste too soft), and break this down quite
small; then add eight ounces of pounded sugar, on part of
which the rind of a fine lemon has been rasped previously to its
being crushed to powder. Make these into a paste with the
yolks of four eggs, or with rather less should they be large, for .
if too moist, it will adhere to the board and roller. To make
a Venetian cake of moderate size, roll the paste less than a
quarter of an inch thick, and cut with the larger fluted cutter,
shown at page 574, six or seven portions of equal size; lay them
on lightly floured or buttered tins, and bake them in a slow
oven until they are firm and crisp, and equally coloured of a
pale brown. Should they seem to require it, lay them one on
the other, while they are still warm, and place a baking-tin,
with a slight weight, upon them to render them quite level.
When they are cold, spread upon each a different kind of
choice preserve, and pile the whole evenly into the form of an
entire cake. The top may be iced, and decorated with pistachio-
nuts, or grains of coloured sugar, or with a wreath of almond-
paste leaves. There are many varieties of this excellent dish,
which is known by different names in different countries. It is .
sometimes called a Neapolitan Cake, sometimes a Thousand
Leaf Cake a la Frangaise.. It is occasionally made entirely of
almond-paste, and highly decorated ; it may be formed also of
many layers of puff or fine short crust, cut of uniform size, or
gradually less, so as to leave round each a clear border of an
“ach wide, which may be covered with coloured icing, or orna-

APPENDIX. ; 581

_ mented with preserved fruit, tinted almonds, grains of white or
pink sugar candy, or aught else that the fancy may direct.

To make the small Venetian cakes, roll the paste directed for
‘the large one at the commencement of this receipt, into balls,
flatten them with the hand to about the third of an inch thick,
brush them with beaten egg, and cover them plentifully with
sugar-candy crushed about half the size of a pea: bake them in
a slow oven.

Almonds, 8 ozs.; flour, 1 lb.; butter, 8 ozs.; sugar, 3 Ib.;
rind of 1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 3 to 4: preserve as needed.*

SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD.
(Excellent.)

With one pound of flour mix well a couple of ounces of sifted
sugar, and one of candied orange-rind or citron, sliced small ;
make these into a paste with from eight to nine ounces of good
butter, made sufficiently warm to be liquid; press the paste
together with the hands, and mould it upon tins into large
cakes nearly an inch thick, pinch the edges, and bake the
shortbread in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or longer,
should it not be quite crisp, but do not allow it to become
deeply coloured.

Flour, 1 lb.; sugar, 2 ozs.; candied orange or citron, 1 02.;
butter, 8 to 9 ozs.: 20 minutes or more.

EXCELLENT SHORT CRUST FOR SWEET PASTRY.

Work very lightly half a pound of butter into a pound of
flour, breaking it quite small; add a slight pinch of salt, two
ounces of pounded sugar, and sufficient milk to make it into a
perfectly smooth paste: bake it slowly, and keep it pale. It is
an admirable crust, if well made and lightly handled: ten
ounces of butter will render it very rich, but we find eight
quite sufficient.

APFEL KRAPFEN.
(German Receipt.)

Boil down three quarters of a pound of good apples with four
ounces of pounded sugar, and a small glass of white wine, or the
strained juice of a lemon; when they are stewed quite to a
pulp, keep them stirred until they are thick and dry; then mix
them gradually with four ounces of almonds, beaten to a paste,

* An equal weight of almonds, sugar, flour, and butter may be used for this

paste, which will then be found delicious, but rather less easy to mould than the
one we have given,

582 ‘APPENDIX.

or very finely chopped, two ounces of candied orange or lemon-
rind shred extremely small, and six ounces of jar raisins stoned
‘and quartered : to these the Germans add a rather high flavour-
ing of cinnamon, which is a very favourite spice with them, but
a grating of nutmeg, and some fresh lemon-peel, are, we think,
preferable for this composition. Mix all the ingredients well
together; roll out some butter-crust a full back-of-knife thick-
ness, cut it into four-inch squares, brush the edges to the depth
of an inch round with beaten egg, fill them with the mixture,
lay another square of paste on each, press them very securely
_ together, make, with the point of a knife, a small incision in
the top of each, glaze them or not at pleasure, and bake them
rather slowly, that the raisins may have time to become tender.
They are very good. *The proportion of sugar must be regu-
lated by the nature of the fruit; and that of the almonds can
be diminished when it is thought too much. A delicious tart
of the kind is made by substituting for the raisins and candied
orange-rind, two heaped tablespoonsful of very fine apricot
jam.
FAIRY FANCIES.
(Fantasies de Fées.)

A small, but very inex-
pensive set of tin cutters must
be had for this prety form of
a =stei== pastry, which is, however,
7 4 ==— — quite worthy of so slight a

= cost. The short crust, of
which the receipt precedes
this, answers for it better than puff paste. Roll it
thin and very even, and with the larger tin, shaped thus,
cut out a dozen or more of
small sheets; then, with a cou-
ple of round cutters, of which
one should be about an inch
in diameter, and the other only
half the size, form four times : .
the number of rings, and lay them on the sheets in the manner
shown in the engraving. The easier mode of placing them
regularly, is to raise each ring without removing the small
cutter from it, to moisten it with a camel’s hair brush dipped in
white of egg, and to lay it on the paste as it is gently loosened
from the tin. When all the pastry is prepared, set it into
avery gentle oven, that it may become crisp and yet remain

APPENDIX. 583

quite pale. Before it is sent to table, fill the four divisions of
each fanigiste with preserve of a different colour. For ex-
ample: one ring with apple or strawberry jelly, another with
apricot jam, a third with peach or green-gage, and a fourth with
raspberry jelly. The crusts may be iced, and ornamented in
various ways before they are baked. They are prettiest when
formed of white almond-paste, with pink or pale green rings:
they may then be filled, at the instant of serving, with well-
drained whipped cream. .

AN ADMIRABLE COOL CUP.

Weigh six ounces of sugar in lumps, and extract the essence
from the rind of a large fresh lemon by rubbing them upon
it; then put them into a deep jug, and add the strained juice of
one lemon and a half. When the sugar is dissolved, pour in
a bottle of good cider, and three large wineglassesful of sherry ;
add nearly half a small nutmeg lightly grated, and serve the
cup with or without some sprigs of fresh balm or borage in it.
Brandy is sometimes added to it, but is, we think, no improve-
ment. If closely covered down, and placed in ice for a short
time, it will be more agreeable as a summer beverage.

MOULDED RICE, OR SAGO, AND APPLE JUICE.

Free seven ounces of Carolina rice from the unhusked or
‘discoloured grains, and wipe it well in a soft cloth; pour to it a
quart of cold prepared apple-juice (see page 427), and place it
over a gentle fire: stir it often before it begins to boil, or it will
gather into hard lumps. When it has stewed softly until it is
tolerably tender, add to it six ounces of pounded sugar, and a
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and stir it constantly until it is
very thick and dry; then press it into a mould which has been
- laid into water, and in twelve hours it may be turned out, and
served either quite plain or with a rich syrup of apple-juice
well flavoured with lemon; or it may be stuck with almond-
spikes, and covered with a good boiled custard. For invalids,
to whom it is peculiarly adapted, it is better without any
accompaniment. After having well washed, and then drained
the water from, eight ounces of sago, pour to it a pint and a
half of apple juice, and proceed exactly as above; add four
ounces of sugar, with the strained juice and grated rind of a
lemon, and boil the mixture from fifteen to twenty minutes.
In Sweden, and other countries, sago is boiled thick in the
juice of cranberries, but of this preparation we have no expe-
rience. It is very agreeable with the apple-juice, with which

584 APPENDIX.

we had it tried in the first instance for a person in delicate
health, to whom it proved extremely palatable. The juice of
gooseberries, or of spring fruit, may be substituted for this on
occasion ; and we would recommend that of white currants,
mixed with a few strawberries, as likely to prove much more
agreeable than either. 3 ;

Carolina rice, 7 ozs.; prepared apple-juice, 1 quart; sugar,
6 ozs.; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful : boiled till very thick and
dry. ; “
Or: sago, 4 ozs.; apple-juice, 13 pint; rind and juice, 1
niet sugar, 4 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes, or longer if not very
thick.

TO DRESS CARP.
(A common country receipt.)

Scale and clean the fish with exceeding care, lay them into a
stewpan, and cover them with good cold beef or veal broth;
add one small onion stuck with a few cloves, a faggot of savoury
herbs, three or four slices of carrot, and a little salt, and stew
the carp as gently as possible for nearly or quite an hour.
Have ready some good brown gravy, mixed with a couple of
glassesful of port wine, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, dish the
carp very carefully, pour the sauce over, and serve them
immediately. We would recommend the Genevese Sauce, of
page 108, as superior to any other for this dish.

MOULDED POTTED MEAT.
(For the second course.)

Press very closely and smoothly into a pan or mould the
potted ham, or any other meat, of Chapter XIV., pour a thin
layer of clarified butter on the top, and let it become quite cold.
When wanted for table, wind round it for a moment a cloth
which has been dipped into hot water, loosen the meat gently
from it with a thin knife, turn it on to a dish, and glaze it
lightly ; lay a border of small salad round it, with or without a
decoration of hard eggs, or surround it instead with clear
savoury jelly cut in dice. The meat, for variety, may be
equally sliced, and laid regularly round a pile of small salad.
A very elegant second course dish may be made with potted
lobsters in this way, the centre being ornamented with a small
shape of lobster butter. (See page 298.) .

584a

APPENDIX IL

CURRIED SOLES.

First, fry gently in a morsel of butter a moderate-sized onion ~
sliced thin, and when it is well browned lift it on to a sieve
reversed, to drain; then lay it into the stewpan in which the
currie is to be made; next, mix about three dessertspoonsful of
good currie powder with a teaspoonful of salt and a large table-
spoonful of flour; raise the flesh in fillets from a couple of quite
large soles, or take the heads and tails from two or three small
ones, and divide each fish once or twice without boning it; rub
half the powder on the soles, and fry them quickly and lightly;
.then place them upon the onion, pour a little boiling water or
broth into the pan, give it a shake, and a minute’s boil, add it to
the fish, and when it begins to simmer, stir in the remainder of
the powder, very smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of cold
broth or water. Stew the currie softly from fifteen to twenty
minutes ; throw in a spoonful of lemon-juice or Chili-vinegar ;
and serve it as hot as possible.

Onion, 1; flesh of soles, 2 large; (or small soles unboned 3 or
4;) currie powder, 3 dessertspoonsful ; salt, 1 small teaspoonful;
flour, 1 tablespoonful; water or broth, 4 to 4 pint; lemon-juice
or chili-vinegar, 1 to 2 dessertspoonsful: 15 to 20 minutes.

Obs. 1. We have been favoured since the third edition of the
present work was published, with some very obliging remarks
on curries by Dr. Dickson of Curzon Street, who says, that to
all curries a proportion of mushroom-powder should be added ;
and that this may be obtained of Butler, herbalist, Covent Gar-
den, at the very moderate price of sixpence per ounce. We
much regret that our want of space precludes for the present
the insertion of the remainder of his observations.

Obs. 2. We have made trial of a large variety of currie
powders, and found many of them good; but we think that sold -
by Cooke and Co., 24, Princes Street, Cavendish Square, the
most likely, perhaps, to meet with general approval. Selim’s
currie paste, also, when genuine, answers well; but not unless it
be subjected to the action of the hot butter before any liquid is
added to it. When simply diluted, and stirred into boiling
gravy, it is not so agreeable as the powder above named.

TO POACH EGGS.

Take for this purpose a wide and delicately clean pan about
half-filled with the clearest spring-water; throw in a table-
PPO

5846 APPENDIX.

spoonful of distilled or of extremely pale vinegar, and a small
saltspoonful of salt, and place it over a fire quite free from
smoke. Break some new-laid eggs into separate cups, and do
this with care, that the yolks may not be injured. When the
water boils, draw back the pan, slip the eggs gently into it, and
let them stand until the whites appear almost set, which will be
in about a minute; then, without shaking them, move the pan
over the fire, and boil them softly from two minutes and a
half to three minutes. Lift them out separately with a slice,
trim quickly off the ragged edges, and serve them upon dressed
spinach, or upon minced veal, turkey, or chicken; or dish them
for an invalid, upon delicately toasted bread, sliced thick, and
freed from crust: it isan improvement to have the bread but-
tered, butt is then less wholesome.

Some cooks drop the eggs at once into the water when it
boils, and leave them in it for nearly or quite three minutes.
We find either mode successful. .

To stand in the water 1 minute; to simmer from 2 minutes
and a 3 to 3 minutes; or to boi 3 minutes.

Obs. Good cooks sometimes strike off the end of the egg

which is to be poached, and drop it from the shell into the

water, turning it, at the same time round in the hand: this an-
swers well if adroitly done, not otherwise.

POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY. (ENTREMETS.)
Gufs Pochés au Jus.

Dress the eggs as above, giving them as good an appearance
as possible, lay them into a very hot dish, and sauce them with
some rich, clear, boiling veal gravy, or with some Hspagnole.
Each egg, for variety, may be dished upon a crouton of bread
cut with a fluted paste-cutter, and fried a pale brown: the sauce
should then be poured round, not over them.

BROILED EELS WITH SAGE. (ENTREZ.)
(German receipt.) .

Skin, open, and cleanse one fine eel (or more), cut it into —

finger-lengths, rub it with a mixed seasoning of salt and white
pepper, and leave it for half an hour. Wipe it dry, wrap each
length in sage leaves, fasten them round it with coarse thread,
roll the eel in good salad oil or clarified butter, lay it on the

gridiron, squeeze lemon-juice over, and broil it gently until it ~

is browned in every part. Send it to table with a sauce made
of two or three ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of Chili, tar-

Pere

en ee

vs sea Ali
at atch! pa ticn

APPENDIX, 584c

ragon, or commorn vinegar, and one of water, with a little salt.
To keep this smooth, proceed as for the Norfolk sauce of
page 99. .

We think this receipt might be applied with very good effect
to some other kinds of fish, and to dressed meat also. We have
found it answer agreeably even for cold shin of beef, which had
been stewed in good gravy, and lifted from it while hot.

POTTED LOBSTERS. (ENTREMETS,)

Split the bodies and break the claws of some perfectly fresh
lobsters, clear the flesh from all tough skin and shell, cut it
quickly with a very sharp knife, and pound it, with all the in-
side coral, to the smoothest paste, adding about an ounce and a
half of butter, for each lobster of moderate size, and a seasoning
of fine mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. When there is no coral,
colour may be given to the mixture by stewing gently the red
skin of the tails in part of the butter for about ten minutes, and
adding it to the flesh, after it has been strained, and has become
cold.* When flavour is preferred to good appearance, the soft
_ part of the bodies may be beaten to the mixture. For precise
directions for potting fish and meat, see Chapter XIV.; and for
an elegant mode of serving this preparation en solade, see page
584. We recommend the addition of a few very fresh shrimps
to the lobster here, as a great improvement to the receipt. The
proportion of butter can be increased at pleasure.

LOBSTER CUTLETS. (A SUPERIOR ENTREE).

Prepare and pound with exceeding nicety, by the receipt
which precedes this, about three quarters of a pound of the
flesh of a couple of fine fresh lobsters, of which one must be a
hen lobster ; add to it, when it is partially beaten, an ounce and a
half of sweet new butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and about two-
thirds as much of mixed mace and cayenne, with a dessertspoonful
of the inside coral (the whole of which should be rubbed with a
wooden spoon through a hair sieve, to be in readiness for use).
When all these ingredients are well blended, and beaten to the
finest and smoothest paste, the mixture should be tested by the
taste, and the seasoning heightened if needful; but, as the pre-

* By pounding separately part of the white flesh of the fish, freed from every
particle of the skin, and by colouring the remainder highly with the coral of the
lobster, and then pressing the two in alternate and regular layers into a mould, a
dish of pretty appearance is produced, which should be turned out of the mould
for table. Ham and turkey, or any other white meat, are often potted in this -
way. ,

584d APPENDIX.

paration is very delicate it dwotie: not be over-spiced. Mould
it into the form of small cutlets, about the third of an inch
thick ; stick into each a short bit of the smallest claws; strew
the coral lightly over them, so as to give them the appearance
of being crumbed with it; arrange them round the dish in which
they are to be sent to table; place them in a very gentle oven
for eight or ten minutes only, to heat them through, or warm
them in a Dutch or American oven, placed at some inches from
the fire, that the brilliant colour of the coral may not be de-
stroyed, and pour into the centre some good béchamel (see page
97), or the Lady’s Sauce, or the Cream Sauce of Chapter IV.
A very white sauce best contrasts with the colour of the cutlets.

This is an excellent and elegant dish, of which an admirable |

variety is made by the addition of three or four ounces of the
freshest shrimps, quickly shelled, and chopped before they are
thrown into the mortar; with half an ounce of butter and
a little spice. All the coral can be added to the cutlets at
pleasure; but it is generally in request for many purposes, and
1s required for this one, only in part.

SUPRRLS Oe LOBSTER PATTIES.

Form into balls about half the size
( ».. . of a filbert either the cutlet mixture
7G wl” é\ or the pounded lobster above ; roll them
= POP yl ) in the sifted coral, warm them through
LN I very gently, have ready some hot
patty-cases. (see page 351), pour into each a small spoonful of
rich white sauce, or Sauce al Aurore (see page 108), lay the balls
round the edge, pile a larger one in the centre, and serve the
whole very quickly.
The Dresden patties of page 570 may be thus filled.

LOBSTER SAUSAGES.

Prepare the fish as for the cutlets, but pound half or more of
the coral with the flesh of the lobsters; shape it like small
sausages, sprinkle them with the coral, and heat them through
in a Dutch or American oven. They may be brushed with
clarified butter before the coral is strewed over them, but they
scarcely need it. A fierce degree of heat will destroy the
excellence of all these preparations.

TO STEAM A PUDDING IN A COMMON STEWPAN OR SAUCEPAN.

Butter and fill the mould or basin as usual ; tie over it, first,
awell-buttered paper, and then a thin floured cloth or muslin,

Pa
eo ee

APPENDIX, 584e

which should be quite small; gather up and tie the corners, and.
be careful that no part of it, or of the paper, reaches to the water;
pour in from two to three inches depth of this, according to the
height of the mould, and when it boils put in the pudding, and
press the cover of the stewpan closely on ; then simmer it gently
without ceasing until it is done. This is the safer method of
boiling all puddings made with polenta, or with the American
flour of maize.

MAIZE PUDDING.* (AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR POTATOES).

Put half a pint of the maize-meal into a bowl, add to it a
saltspoonful of salt, cut about an ounce of butter (even less
will suffice, or a bit of dripping when it is not disliked), into
half a pint of milk, and when it boils, take it from the fire, and
add to it a quarter of a pint of cold milk, as it must be poured
hot, but not bovling to the meal; then proceed to mix it with
the maize; butter a pie or tart dish, which should not be very
shallow; pour in the pudding, smooth the top, and bake it very
slowly, in a Dutch or American oven for two hours, when, if
properly managed, it will have become quite firm. If placed
too near the fire at first the surface will harden, and the pud-
ding will not bake as it ought. When it does not adhere to
the knife if tried with the blade, it is done.

PUDDING OF POLENTA, OR ITALIAN FLOUR OF MAIZE.

Half a pound of polenta, a pint and a quarter of milk, an
ounce of butter, and some salt and cayenne, managed and mixed
exactly like the maize above, and crntiy baked before the fire
from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, will make an
excellent plain pudding sufliciently firm to be turned out of the
dish in which it is baked before it is sent to table.

SWEET PUDDING OF POLENTA.

From half to a whole ounce of butter, three to four ounces of
sugar, dissolved in the milk, the grated rind of a lemon, four
ounces of Sultana raisins, and one of finely shred candied orange-
rind, added to the foregoing receipt, will make a good sweet
family pudding. For a very cheap one, two tablespoonsful of
treacle, well worked up with the polenta before the milk is
poured to it, and a little lemon-grate will be all sufficient, instead
of thé more expensive ingredients.

Obs. Next to their perfect wholesomeness, the great recom-

* This receipt is for the American maize-meal.

584f APPENDIX.

mendation of these puddings is their being quite firm without
any eggs: the yellow tint of the polenta itself gives them the
appearance of containing many.

POLENTA A L’ITALIENNE.

Mix seven ounces of the polenta with one quart of cold miik,
and stir them over a clear fire until they boil; continue to stir
the mixture until it is as thick as it can be,—(from ten to twelve
minutes will usually be sufficient), then proceed in all else by the
receipt of page 423. Salt and cayenne must be added, as there,
to the polenta at first.

MUSH, OR PORRIDGE OF MAIZE-MEAL,* WHICH RESEMBLES THE
SCOTTISH CROWDIE.

The raw flavour of the maize is, we think, best overcome by
mixing it with cold milk or water, and then stirring it over the

fire until it has become thick from boiling. To half a pint of —

meal add about a saltspoonful of salt, and mix it gradually with
rather more than a quart of liquid. Turn it into a saucepan,
and stir it over a clear fire until it has boiled from ten to fifteen
minutes; or, if this method be thought troublesome, mix the
meal with part of the liquid, and pour it into the remainder
when it boils. It is very pleasant in flavour...

* Called also stir-about.— The importations of American maize-flour or meal
have hitherto been very insufficient to supply the eager demand for it which has
arisen in this country since public attention has been directed to it by the legis-
lature as a cheap and nutritious article of diet. There is little doubt, however,
that it will soon become common food throughout the kingdom; and we therefore
much regret that our limits will not permit us to make known here the many uses
to which we find it admirably adapted. But we are compelled to reserve, for a
little work upon the subject which we have now in progress,’ all the remainder
of our receipts for its preparation. The polenta, or Italian Indian-corn meal,
differs, both in its quality and its nature, from the American, though it is derived
from the same species of grain; but this in Italy is highly dried, when harvested,
either by the action of the sun, or by artificial means. It assumes, in consequence,
a fine yellow tint, and is so much hardened that it almost resembles flour-of-rice
when ground. It is at present sold at sixpence the pound at the best Italian ware=
houses (we have ourselves been supplied with it always extremely good by

Mr. Cobbett of Pall Mall); but when its superior quality, and its genwineness also, .

are considered, its price will not appear so disproportionate to that of the Ameri-
can meal as it would seem at first. We have had specimens of the latter from
Liverpool, Manchester, and London. The best of the three samples by far was half
“oatmeal very coarsely prepared. The London packet had literally been ‘‘ made up”
for sale with bean-flour and other matters, and produced, when used, an entirely
different effect to the meal of Indian corn, and its flavour bore no resemblance

to it whatever. We mention this, that our readers may see the desirableness of —

procuring the corn itself, and having it ground into flour or meal at home. A

small mill for the purpose might, we should suppose, be constructed without great

expense.

APPENDIX, 584g

Maize-meal, half-pint; milk or water, full quart; salt, one
saltspoonful: ten to fifteen minutes. | |

Obs. This porridge may be made in the Scottish fashion, by
dropping the meal lightly through the fingers into the boiling
liquid, and beating it smooth with a sort of stick kept for the
purpose; but the method we have given will better prevent its
lumping. Polenta, used in the same proportion as the American
meal in this receipt, with milk, and the addition of a little sugar
_and nutmeg, makes agreeable food for the nursery and for
invalids.

SHRIMPS, POTTED, WHOLE.“ (AN ADMIRABLE RECEIPT.)

Let the fish for this receipt be very fresh ; shell them
quickly, touching them as lightly as possible; melt down, with
a gentle degree of heat, some new butter; skim and pour it,
clear of sediment, into a clean enamelled saucepan ; add a little
salt, mace, and cayenne; and when these have just simmered
for three or four minutes, throw in the fish, toss them in the
butter, that all may be covered with it, and let them heat
through by the side of the stove, but on no account be allowed
to boil ; turn them into shallow pans, and press them down into
the butter. Should it not cover them entirely, pour a little
more over them when they are nearly cold.

Shelled shrimps, 1 pint; butter, 4 to 5 oz.; small quantity
each of salt, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne.

TO RENDER CHICKENS WHITE, FOR BOILING.

Lay them, after they are trussed, into a pan of spring water
for ten or fifteen minntes. This may weaken their flavour
slightly, but it will improve their appearance. Cover them
well with more cold water; heat them slowly; watch and clear
off all the scum as it appears, and boil them gently until they
are ready to serve. (See p. 263.) Truss them without the
livers or gizzards. For a more expensive and refined mode of
dressing them, see Poelée, p. 154.

* We have, in part, derived this receipt, of which we have permission to make
use, from a small treatise on pickling and curing meat and fish, by Mr. Robin-
son. (Longman and Co.) But we have adapted it to our own taste by some
variations which render it; we think, more delicate. We would here observe, that .
all shell-fish, after having been sufficiently boiled for eating, is, like meat, injured
if more than just heated through a second time. This applies particularly to
- lobsters.

584k APPENDIX.

SPRING SOUP AND SOUP A LA JULIENNE.

Throw into three quarts of strong clear broth, or shin of beef
stock, or of gravy-soup, half a pint each of turnips and carrots,
prepared by the directions of page 5, or turned into any other
shape that may be preferred, with rather less of the solid part
of some white celery stems, and of leeks or of very mild onions
mixed. The latter must, if used, be sliced, drawn into rings,
and divided into slight shreds. When these have simmered from
twenty to thirty minutes, add the leaves of one or two lettuces
and a few of sorrel, trimmed or: torn, about the size of half-a-
crown. Continue the gentle boiling until these are tender, and
at the moment of serving add half a pint of asparagus-points
boiled very green, and as many French beans cut into small
lozenges, and also boiled apart; or substitute green peas for these
last.

For the Julienne soup, first stew the carrots, &c. tolerably
tender in a couple of ounces of butter; pour the stock boiling

‘to them; skim off all the fat from the surface, and finish as
above. Sprigs of chervil, spinage (boiled apart, and sparingly
added), green onions, very small tufts of brocoli or cauliflower,
may all be used in these soups at choice., Both the kind and

the proportion of the vegetables can be regulated entirely by.

the taste. Bread stamped out with a very small round cutter,
and dried a pale brown in the oven, is added generally to this
spring soup, but is, we should say, no improvement. Winter
vegetables should have three or four minutes previous boiling
(or blanching) before they are put into the soup. .

INDEX.

Acid Royal, strawberry, 545
Alderman’s pudding, 392
Almond, cake, 516
candy, 537
biscuits, bitter, 516
cream, for blamange, 449
macaroons, 514
paste, 355
paste, fairy fancies of, 582
paste, sandwiches of, 362
paste, tartlets of, 356
rocher, 515
shamrocks, (very good and very
: pretty ) 543
Almonds to blanch, 512
chocolate, 538 — -
to colour for cakes or pastry,
513
in cheesecakes, 361
to pound, 512
in soups, 21, 22
to reduce to paste, the quickest
and easiest way, 512
Anchovies, eggs forced with, 424
tried in batter, 81
potted, 297
' Anchovy, butter, 127
sauce, 105
Apfel krapfen (German receipt), 581
Apple cake, 352
calf’s-feet jelly, 434
Charlotte, or Charlotte de Pom-
mes, 458
marmalade for Charlotte de
Pommes, 458
custards, 454
dumplings, fashionable, 386
fritters, 416
hedgehog, or Swédoise, 452
jelly, 493
jelly, exceedingly fine, 493
juice, prepared, 427
pudding, 372
pudding, small common, 373
sauce, 120
sauce, baked, 120
sauce, brown, 120

Apple soup, 20
snowballs, 387
tart, 354
creamed tart, 354
Apples, baked compote of, (our little
lady’s receipt), 542
buttered, or Pommes au beurre,
459
Apricots, compote of green, 429
Apricots dried, French receipt for, 487
to dry, a quick and easy method,
486

Apricot blamange, 449
fritters, 416
marmalade, 486
Artichokes, @ la Reine, 329
to boil, 317
en salade, 317
to remove the chokes from, 317°
Jerusalem, to boil, 327
to fry, 327
mashed, 328
excellent sauce of, 123
soup of, 18
Asparagus, to boil, 308
_ to serve cold, 308
points, dressed like peas, 308
Aspic, or clear savoury jelly, 94
Arnott Stove, 329
Arocé Docé, or sweet rice @ la Portu-
gaise, 461
Arrow-root, to thicken sauces with,
83

to thicken soup with, 3. 23. 33.
8

Bacon, to boil, 247

broiled or fried, 248

Cobbet’s receipt for, 241

dressed rashers of, 248

French, ‘for larding, 244

lardoons of, 166

to pickle cheeks of, 244

genuine Yorkshire receipt for

curing, 242 :

Bain-marie, use of, 95

586 INDEX.

apple-pudding,

another receipt
for, 402

fillet of, braised, 172
fillet of, roast, 172

Baked apple-pudding, or custard, 402 | Beef, Dutch or hung, 184 |

apple-pudding, a common, 402
compote of apples, 542
minced beef, 195
round of spiced beef, 185
beet-root, 329
bread-puddings, 395
calf’s feet, and head, 163
custard, 455, 456
haddocks, 66
ham, 247
hasty pudding, 408
joints, with potatoes, 164
mackerel, 62
marrow bones, 196
mullet, 67
pike, 72
potatoes, 302
salmon, 164
smelts, 68
soles (or soles aw plat), 59
soup, 164
sucking-pig, 239
whitings, @ la Franeaise, 61
Baking, directions for, 163
Banbury cakes, 520
Barberries, to pickle, 510
in bunches, to preserve, 497
stewed, for dessert, 431
Barberry jam, a good receipt for, 498
jam, another receipt for, 498
- jam, very common, 498
jelly, 497
superior jelly and marmalade, 498
and rice pudding, 406
tart, 354
Barley-sugar, 534
Barley-water, excellent, (poor Xury’s
! receipt), 552
Batter, French, for frying meat and
vegetables, &c., 129
cod’s sounds fried in, 56
salsify, fried in, 331
spring fruit, fried in, 416
to mix for puddings, 366
Béchamel, 97, 98
Beans, French, to boil, 310
a la Francaise, 310
another excellent receipt for, 310
Windsor, to boil, 311
Beef, @ la mode, 178
breslaw of, 193
cake, (very good) 175
to choose, 170
minced collops of, 189
savoury minced collops of, 189
Scotch minced collops of, 190
richer minced collops of, 189
divisions of, 169

hashed, French receipt for, 194

cold, common hash of, 193

cold, excellent hash of, 193

collared, 184

collared, another receipt for, 185

Norman hash of, 194

heart, to roast, 192

kidney, to dress, 192.

kidney (a plainer way), 192

marrow-bones, to boil, 195

marrow-bones, baked, 196

palates, (Entrée), 180

palates (Neapolitan mode), 182

Hamburg pickle for, 183

another pickle for, 183

roll, or canellon de boeuf, 180

miniature round of, 187

round of, to salt and boil, 182

round. of, spiced, 185

round of, roast, 171

rump of, to roast, 171 |

rump of, to stew, 179

common receipt for salting, 185

shin of, to stew; 177

shin uf, for stock, 84

sirloin of, to roast, 170

sirloin of, stewed, 179

spiced soot, and . wholesome),
18

steak, roast, 172

steak, stewed, 174

steak, stewed in its own gravy,
175

steaks, best and most mder,
‘170 4

steaks, broiled, 172

steaks, broiled, sauces appropri-
ate to, 173

steaks, fried, 175

steaks, & la Francaise, 174 ,

steaks, @ la Francaise, another
receipt for, 174 ;

steak pie, 344

steak puddings, 368, 369

good English stew of, 177

German stew, 176

Stufato, 187

Welsh stew of, 176

tongue (Bordyke’s receipt
stewing), 191

tongue potted,

tongues (various modes of curing),
188. 190

tongues, to dress, 191

tongues, Suffolk receipt for, 190

Beet-root, to bake, 330 '

to boil, 329
to stew, 330

INDEX.

Bengal currie, 288
Bermuda witches, 462
Birthday syllabub, 550
Biscuits, almond, bitter, 516

Aunt Charlotte’s, 531

Captain’s, 531

chestnut, 525

Colonel’s, 531

cheap ginger, 524

Judge Franks’ ginger, 525
Biscuit, cocoa-nut, 528
Bishop, Oxford receipt for, 549
Black-cap pudding, 371
Black-caps par excellence, 541
Black cock, and grey hen, to roast,

+ 982

Blamange, or blanc manger, apricot,
449

(author’s receipt,) 447
calf’s feet, to make, 426
currant, 450
quince (delicious), 449
quince, with almond cream, 449
rich, 447
vubané, or striped, 450
strawberry (extremely good), 448
strengthening, 451
Blane, a, 154
Blanch, to, meat, vegetables, &c., 167
Blanquette, of sucking pig, 239
of ae lamb with mushrooms,
21
Boiled calf’s head, 198
. chestnuts, 543
custard, 453
eels (German receipt), 74
fowls, 263
leeks, 307
rice, to serve with stewed fruit,
c., 388
rice-pudding, 385
turnip-radishes, 307
breast of veal, 206
fillet of veal, 204
knuckle of veal, 208
loin of veal, 205
Boiling, general directions for, 153
Bone to, calf’s head for brawn, 203
calf’s head, the cook’s receipt,
1

calf’s head for mock turtle soup,
23
@ fowl-or turkey without opening

it, 254
@ fowl or turkey, another mode,
255

fowls, for fricassees, curries, and

pies, 256
a hare, 275
@ leg of mutton, 224
@ loin of mutton for pies, 345

587

Bone to, a shoulder of veal or mutton,
206

neck of venison for pies, 342
Boning, general directions for, 167
Bon-bons, palace,

Bottled fruits, for winter use, 492

sooseberries, 470

tomatas, or tomata-catsup, 136
Boudin, ad la Richelieu, 278
Boulettes, 304
Bouiili, 6

French receipt for hashed, 194
Bouillon, 6
Brain cakes, 148

calf’s, added to soup, 23. 28
Braise, to burn, 465
Braised, fillet of beef, 172

leg of mutton, 224
Braising, directions for, 165
Brandy, cherry (Tappington Eve-

rard receipt), 566
lemon, for flavouring
dishes, 139

peaches preserved in, 566

trifle, or tipsy cake, 444
Brandied morella Cherries, 566
Brawn, calf’s head (Author’s receipt),

sweet

Tonbridge, 248
Bread, Bordyke receipt for, 562

brown, 563

cocoa-nut, 564

crumbs, fried, 130

crumbs, to prepare for frying
fish, 129

crust, for pies or tarts (excellent),
5

to fry for garnishing, 130
to fry for soups, 4
partridges served with, 265
potato, 563
puddings, 384, 394
and butter puddings, 393, 394
sauce, 102
sauce with onion, 103
to purify yeast for, 560
Brezolles, 211
Brioche paste, 339
Brioche rusks, English, 565
Brill, to boil, 51
Broccoli, 317
Broiled beef-steak, 172
bacon, 248
cutlets, mutton, 230
cutlets, pork, 241
fowl, 263
mackerel, 160
partridge, 281
partridge (French receipt), 281
salmon, 160
whitings, 160

588

Broiling, general directions for, 160
Broil, the Cavalier’s, 576
Broth, 6
veal, or mutton, 44
Browned flour for thickening soups
and sauces, 130
Browning, with salamander, 169
Brown, rich, English gravy 87
gravy, common, 91
caper sauce, 116
chestnut sauce, 125
mushroom sauce, 118
onion sauce, 121
rabbit soup, 31
Brussels sprouts, 331
Bullaces, jelly of, 490
stewed, or compote of, 428
Bun, a good light, 528
_ Buns, most excellent, 529
Geneva, 564 P
Burlington Whimsey, 200
Burnt coffee, or gloria, 559
Buttered apples, 459
cherries, 461
Butter, anchovy, 127
burnt, 100
clarified, for storing and for im-
mediate use, 100
to cool for crust, 335
creamed, and otherwise prepared
for cakes, 513
lobster, 298
melted, good common, 99
melted, French, 99
melted, rich, 98
melted, rich, without flour, 99
melted, and parsley, 114
melted, white, 99
loin of lamb stewed in, 235
Butter-milk, for bread, 550

Cabbage, to boil, 323
in currie, 289
stewed, 323
-red, to stew (Flemish receipt), 330
red, to pickle, 510
Café noir, 558
Cake, fine almond, 516
apple, 352
beef or mutton, 175
a cheap common, 527
Cornish, heavy, 530
Dresden, 520 -
thick, light gingerbread, 552
a good Madeira, 519
pound, 517
rice, 517
sausage-meat, or pain de pore
Srais, 250
a@ good soda, 527
&@ good sponge, 518

Cake, another sponge, (good,

INDEX,

and
quickly made), 519

a smaller sponge, 518

tipsy, 444

veal, 209

Be ae (Bordyke receipt for),

Eye i, or Neapolitan (super-
. excellent), 580
white, 517
Cakes, Banbury, 520
cinnamon, or lemon, 526
flead, or fleed, 530
cocoa-nut gingerbread, 528
common gingerbread, 528
richer gingerbread, 523
queen, 527
very good small rich, 515
to prepare butter for rich, 518
to whisk eggs for light rich, 514
small Venetian, 581
Calf’s head, dla Maitre d@ Hotel, 202
boiled, 198
boned and rolled, 199
to clear the hair from, 197
cutlets of, 200
hashed, 201
a cheap hash of, 201
See the cook’s receipt, 199
soup, 2
The Warder’s way, 198
Calf’s feet jelly, 4382
jelly, in barley-water, 552
jelly, in punch, 548
to prepare for stock, 425
stewed, 216
stock, 425
stock, to clarify, 426
Calf’ s-foot, in bouillon, 7
in shin of beef stock, 84
Calf’s-liver, fried, 217
stoved or stewed, 577
roast, 217
sweetbreads, 215
Cambridge milk punch, 549
Candy, almond, 537
cocoa-nut, 536
ginger, 585
orange-flower, 536
orange-flower (another receipt
for), 536
Canellon de boeuf, 188
Canellons, filled with apricot or ae
marmalade, 417
of brioche paste, 418
Caper sauce, 116
sauce for fish, 117
Capillaire in punch, 549
Caramel, to boil sugar to, 583 ~
the quickest way, 534
Carp, to stew, 533

TA, ae!

li? 2 sa

™

eet ae

INDEX. 589

Carrots, aw beurre, $27
to boil, 325
in plum pudding, 382
sweet, for second course, 326
the Windsor receipt, 326
Carrot, soup, common, 18
soup, a finer, 19
Casserole of rice, savoury, 342
of rice, sweet, 403
Catsup, the cook’s, or compound, 134
lemon, 135
mushroom, 132, 133.
mushroom, double, 134
pontac, for fish, 136
tomata, 136
walnut, 134, 135
Caulifiowers, to boil, 316
French receipt for, 316
ala Frangaise, 316
with Parmesan cheese, 316
served with fowls, 263
Cayenne, vinegar, 139
Celery, boiled, 332
salad, to serve with pheasants, 315
sauce, 124
stewed, 332
Chantilly baskets, 444. 567
Charlotte de pommes, or apple Char-
lotte, 453
a la Parisienne, 459
Cheese, in fondu, 413
with maccaroni, 421
with maccaroni, @ la Reine, 422
in ramakins, 363
to serve with white and macca-
roni soup, 11, 22
Cheesecakes, cocoa-nut (Jamaica re-
ceipt), 359
lemon (Christ-Church College re-
ceipt), 360
Norfolk, 568
Madame Werner’s Rosenvik, 361
Cherries, brandied morella, 566
compote of Kentish, 429
compote of morella, 429
dried with sugar, 473
dried without, 474
dried, superior receipt, 474.
to pickle, 503
preserved, morellas, 475
Chestnuts, boiled, 543
roasted, 543
stewed, 333,
Chestnut, biscuits, 525
sauce, brown, 125
sauce, white, 125
soups, 17
Chetney, various ways of making, 132
Chicken, broiled, 263
cutlets, 265
fried, a la Malabar, 266
patties (good), 350

Chicken pie, (common), 344
modern pie, 343
Chickens, boiled, 263.
fricasseed, 264
in soup, 29
China chilo, of, mutton, 230
Chocolate, almonds, 588
custard, 445
drops, 538
to make, 559
Chops, lamb or mutton, broiled, 230

mutton, stewed in their own
gravy (good), 229
pork, 241

Christopher North’s own sauce for
many meats, 110
Cinnamon cakes, 520
Cocoa-nut bread, 553
biscuit, 528
candy, 536
cheesecakes, 359
in curries, 292
gingerbread, 523, 524
milk, flavoured with, for sweet
dishes, 428
macaroons, 515
puddings, 405
soup, 17
Cod fish, to boil, 53
slices of, fried, 54
stewed, 54
stewed in brown gravy, 55
Cod’s sounds, to boil, 56
to fry in batter, 56
Coffee, to boil, 557
breakfast, French, 558
burnt, 559
to filter, 558
to refine, 558
strong, clear, to serve after din-
ner, called café noir, 558
to roast,*556
Cold, calf’s head, to re-dress, 201, 202
fowls, ditto, 266, 267
leg of mutton, ditto, 226
mattre @ hotel, sauce, 107
meat, excellent sauces to serve
with, 109, 113
salmon, to dress, 53
turbot, ditto, 51
Collops minced, au naturel, 189
savoury minced, 189
sauté-pan tor frying, 162
Scotch, 214
Scotch minced, 190
Compote of apples, baked (our little
Lady’s receipt), 542
of green apricots, 429
of bullaces, 430
of cherries, 429
of Kentish cherries, 429
of Morella cherries, 429

590 INDEX.

Compote of green currants, 429
of red currants, 429
of damsons, 429
of green gooseberries, 429
of magnum bonum, or other large
plums, 430
of Oranges (a Hebrew dish), 540
of peaches, 430
of peaches, another receipt, 430
of Siberian crabs, 480
of spring truit (rhubarb), 428
Conjuror, a, its uses, 160
Consommée, 85 j
- Constantia jelly, 437
Cool cup, a, 583
Cornish heavy cake, 530
Counsellor’s cup, 555
Crab, buttered, 76
Crabs, Siberian, jelly of, 496
Cray-fish, to boil, 76
Creamed apple tart, 354
tartlets, 567
Cream, Chantilly basket filled with, 444
crust, 337
jelly, filled with, 439

lemon, made without cream, 445

Nesselréde, 441

sauce for fish, 106

Swiss, 443

in one: 13. 17, 18. 20, 21. 238.

Creams, rites (very, good), 445
fruit, 446
Italian, 446

Créme a la Comtesse, or the Coun-

tess’s cream, 442

meringuée, 444
Parisienne, 449
patissiére, 361

| Crust, common suet, for pies, 388

very superior suet, for pies, 338
suet, for puddings, 367
Crusts, to serve with cheese, 565
eekolse (Author’s receipt), to dress,

soup, 38

vinegar, 137
Cucumbers, @ la Créme, 314

a la Poulette, 318

dressed, 311

fried, 314

stewed, 313
Cuirasseau, or curacao, 551
Currants, to clean for puddings and

cakes, 364

green, stewed, 429

red, stewed, 429

red, stewed, to serve with sweet

puddings, 375

Currant, blamange, 450

custard, 454

dumplings, 387

jam, green, 478

jam, red (delicious), 480

jam, white, 481

jelly, French, 480

jelly, superlative red, 480

jelly, white, very fine, 481

jelly, tartlets, 863

paste, 481

pudding, 372

shrub, 577

syrup, or oe dé groseilles, 547
Curried eggs, 292

gravy, 294

maccaroni, 291

oysters, 293

sweetbreads, 292

Crisped potatoes, or potato-ribbons, ; Currie, Mr. Arnott’s, 288 K a

to serve with cheese, 571
Critic’s the gentle, fowrte a la créme,
574

Croquettes of rice, 418
of rice, filled with preserve, 419
of rice, savoury, 419
of shrimps, 571
Croustades, or sweet patiies d@ la
minute, 570
Croute-aux-champignons, or mush-
room-toast, 321
Croute - aux - crevettes, or shrimp
toast, 77
Crust, excellent bread (for hot pies
or tarts), 565
butter, for puddings, 367
cream, 337
tlead, 337
French, for hot or cold meat
pies, 337
excellent short, 581
rich short, for tarts, 839

a Bengal, 288 —

to boil rice for, 36, 37

a dry, 289 ;

common Indian, 290
Currie powder, Mr. Arnott’s, 287
Bass, remarks on, 286

Selim’s (Capt. White’s) 291

| Custard, baked, 454

currant, 454
the Duke’s, 455
the Queen’s, 454 i
veal, or a Sefton, 352 —
Custards, boiled, 453
boiled, rich, 453
chocolate, 455
French, 456
» » quince, or apple, 454
Cutlets of calf’s head, 200
of fowls, partridges, or pigeons,
265

lamb, in their own gravy,
stewed, 229

ae ee ee oe a 7

INDEX.

Cutlets, lamb, or mutton, with Soubise

sauce, 235

mutton, broiled, 230

of cold mutton, 232

tmoutton, in their own gravy,
stewed, 229

pork, 241

veal, @ la Francaise, 214

veal, @ lV’ Indienne, or Indian
fashion, 213

veal, ad la mode de Londres, or
London fashion, 215

veal, fried, 213

of sweetbreads, 215

Damson, cheese, 490

jam, 489

jelly, 489

solid, 489

pudding, 406
Des Cerneaux, or walnut salad, 315
Dough oe Isle of Wight, receipt for,

51 ;

Dresden cake, 520
patties, or croustades, 570
Dried apples, to stew, 54]
apricots, French receipt, 487
cherries, with sugar, 473
cherries, without sugar, 474
gooseberries, with and without
sugar, 472
mushrooms, 139
vlums (Pruneauax de Tours), to
stew, 541
Dry, to, apricots, a quick and easy
method, 486
Imperatrice plums, 492
Mogul plums, 485
peaches or nectarines, 488
Duck, stewed, 269
Ducks, to roast, 268
stuffing for, No. 9, 146
wild, to roast, 285
Dumplings, apple (fashionable), 386
currant, light, 387
lemon, 387
Norfolk, 388
Suffolk, or hard, 387
tomata, American, 386
Dutch, or hung beef, 184
custard, 403
flummery, 448

Eels, boiled, German receipt, 74
Cornish receipt, 74
to fry, 73

Egg balls, 148
sauce, for calf’s head, 101
sauce, common, 101
sauce, good, 160

591

Eggs, curried, 292
forced, or en surprise, 424
forced, for salad, 424
to whisk, for cakes, 513
Elderberry wine, 553
Elegant, the Economist’s, pudding,
380, 3

lobster salad, 584
English, brioche, and brioche-rusks,
565

brown gravy, 87
game pie, 342
puff paste, 336
stew, 177
Entremets, apfel krapfen (German
receipt), 581
apple cake, or German tart, 352
apple calf’s feet jelly, 434
apple custards, 454
epple, rene or orange fritters,

apple hedgehog, or Suédoise, 452

apple tarts, 354

apricot blamange, 449

arocé docé, or sweet rice @ la
Portugaise, 461

asparagus points, dressed like
peas, 309

barberry tart, 354

Bermuda witches, 462

~blamanges (various), 447, 448,

449, 450

boiled custards, 453, 454

brioche fritters, 416

buttered cherries, or cerises au
beurre, 461

calf’s feet jelly, 432

' canellons, 417, 418

cauliflowers @ da Francaise, 316

cauliflowers with Parmesan
cheese, 316 .

Chantilly basket, 444

Charlotte @ la Parisienne, 544

chocolate custard, 455

cocoa-nut cheese cakes, 359

compote of peaches, 430

compotes (various) of fruit, 428,
429

constantia jelly, 437

creamed tartlets, 367

créme a@ ta Comtesse, or the
Countess’s cream, 442

créme meringuée, 444

croquettes of rice, 418

croquettes of rice, finer, 419

croustades, or sweet paities @ la
minute, 570

cucumbers @ la créme, 314

cucumbers @ la poulette, 313

currant jelly tartlets or custards,

custards, (baked), 455, 456

592 . INDEX.

‘Entremets, pancakes, 414

—s

Entremets, custards (various), 453,

3
Dresden cake, 520
dressed maccaroni, 421
fairy fancies, 582
Sanchonettes, 363
forced eggs, or eggs en surprise,
424

French beans @ la Francaise,310

gateau of mixed fruits, 432

gateau de pommes, 431

gdteau de riz, 397

giteau de semoule, 395

genoises a la Reine, 355

gentle ee s tourte a la créme,
57

gentleman commoner’s pudding,
444

German puffs, 457

Gertrude @ la créme, 458

green peas @ la Francaise, 309

green peas with cream, 310

imperial gooseberry fool, 452

Italian creams, 440 -

jaumange, or jaune manger, 448

Jerusalem artichokes @ la Reine,
828 .

Kentish fritters, 414

lemon calf’s feet jelly, 437

lemon cheese cakes, 360

‘lemon creams, 445

lemon fritters, 417

lemon sandwiches, 362

lemon sponge, 451

- lemon tartlets, 363

lobster au béchamel, 75

lobster salad, 573

Louise Franks? citron souffle, 412

Madame Werner’s Rosenvik
cheese cakes, 361

Madeleine puddings, 397

Meringue of pears, 544

Meringues, 521

mincemeat fritters, 415

mince pies, 358

mince pies royal, 558

monitor’s tart, 359

moulded rice, or sago, and apple-
juice, 583

mushroom-toast, 32]

mushrooms au beurre, 320

Nesselréde pudding, 461

Norfolk cheesecakes, 568

omlette aux fines herbes, 410

omlette souffiée, 411

orange calf’s feet jelly, 485

orange fritters, 416 3

orange isinglass jelly, 436

oranges filled with jelly, 436

pastry sandwiches, 362

plain common fritters, 414

pommes au beurre, or buttered
apples, 458

potatoes & la maitre @’hotel, 305

potato doulettes, 304

potato fritters, 417

potato-ribbons, 571

potted meats, 584

prawns, 76

pudding-pies, 359

puffs @ la Colburn, 569

ine Mab’s summer pudding,*

quince blamange, 448

ramakins @ l’ Ude, 363

raspberry pufis, 567

rice @ la Vathek, 569

rice souffié, 412

salad of potted lobster, 584

sea-kale, 305

sea-kale stewed in gravy, 305

scooped potatoes, 302

mans Se. 8 a la Howitt,
2

spinach, @ ? Anglaise, 306

spinach (French receipt), 306

stewed celery, 332

stewed, peaches, 430

strawberry blamange, 448

strawberry isinglass jelly, 488

strawberry tartlets, 567

suédoise of peaches, 458

sweet carrots, 326

sweet casserole of rice, 403

sweet maccaroni, 461

Swiss cream, or trifle, 448

tartlets of almond paste, 356

tourte meringuée, 353

trifle (excellent), 442

truffied omlet, 572 ee

truffles a l’Italtienne, 393

truffles @ la serviette, 322

turnips in white sauce, 324

Venetian cake, 580

Venetian fritters, 415

Vol-au-vent a la créme, 349

Vol-au-vent of fruit, 349

Enirées, beef cake, 175

beef collops, 189

beef palates, 180, 181

beef roll, or canellon de beeuf, 188

beef steaks @ la Frangaise; 174,
175

beef tongues, 191

Bengal currie, 288

blanquette of sucking pig, 239

* Though not included in this list, all sweet puddings are served as entre.
ines, except when they replace the roasts of the second course.

—_

INDEX. 5938

Entrées, blanquette of veal or lamb

with mushrooms, 218
broiled mutton cutlets, 230
broiled oxtail, 181
ones a a la maitre Whotel,

cals head the Warder’s way,

calf’s tee fried, 217

casserole of rice, 342

chicken cutlets, 265

chicken patties, 350

common Indian currie, 290

croquettes of shrimps, 571

croustades filled with mince, 570

cutlets of calf’s head, 200

cutlets of fowls, partridges, or
pigeons, 265

curried eggs, 292

curried maccaroni, 291

curried oysters, 293

curried sweetbreads, 292

Dresden patties, 576

fillets of mackerel, 63

fillets of mackerel i in wine, 64, 65

fillets of soles, 58

fillets of whitings, 60*

fowl @ la Carlsfors, 262

Sricandeau of veal, 210

fricasseed fowls or ‘chickens, 264

fried chicken @ la Malabar, 266

hashed fowl, 266

agra! cutlets in their own gravy,

lamb or mutton cutlets, with
soubise sauce, 235

loin of lamb stewed in butter, 235

minced fowl, 266

minced veal with oysters, 219

mutton cutlets in their own
gravy, 229

mutton kidneys @ la Frangaise,
233

Oxford receipt for mutton kid-
neys, 233

oyster patties, 349

oyster sausages, 8

patties @ la pontife and @ la
cardinale, 350

pork cutlets, 241 a

rissoles, 420

rissoles of fish, 420

Entrées, salmis of ‘game, 223-—224
savoury croquettes of rice, 418
savoury rissoles, 420
sausages and chestnuts, 251
scallops of fowl aw béchamel, 267
Sefton, a, or veal custard, 352
asian de veau, or veal cake,

spring stew of veal, 211
stewed beefsteak, 174
stewed calf’s feet, 216
stewed duck, 269
stewed leg of lamb, with white
sauce, 234
stewed oxtails, 181
stewed tongue, 191
sweetbread cutlets, 215
sweetbreads, stewed, fricasseed,
or roasted, 215
truffled sausages, or saucisses
aux truffies, 251
veal cutlets, 213
veal cutlets or collops @ la Fran-
eaise, 214
veal cutlets @ ? Indienne, or In-
dian fashion, 213
veal cutlets @ la mode de Lon-
dres, or London fashion, 215
veal fricasseed, 220
vol-au-vent, 347
small vols-aw-vents, 351
Epicurean sauce, 136
Eschalots, to pickle, 508
to serve with venison, 274
Eschalot sauce, mild, 122
vinegar, 138
wine, 138
Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, 88
with wine, 89

Fairy Fancies (fantatisies de fées),
582

Fanchonnettes, 363
Fancy jellies, 439
Fennel sauce, 114
Feuilletage, or fine puff paste, 335
Fillets, of fowl, 265. 267
of mackerel boiled, 63
of mackerel, fried or broiled, 63
of mackerel stewed in wine, 65

* Fish is not usually served as an entrée in a common English dinner:

it is, however, very admissible, either in fillets, or scallops, in a currie, or in
a vol-au-vent. Various circumstance; must determine much of the general
arrangement of a dinner, the same dishes answering at times for different
parts of the service. For example, a fowl may be served as the roast for a
small company, and for a large one as an entrée. For a plain family dinner,
too, many dishes may be served in a different order to that which is set

down.
QQ

594

Fillets of soles, 58
of whitings, 60
Fillet of mutton, 227
of veal, boiled, 204
of veal, roast, 204
Finnan haddocks (to dress), 66
Fish, boiled, to render firm, 49
brine, for boiling, 49
to choose, 45
to clean, 47
to keep, 48
to keep hot for table, 49
to sweeten when tainted, 48
salt, to boil, 55
salt, d@ la maitre d’ hotel, 56
salt, in potato-pasty, 341
Flead, or fleed crust, 337
Flavouring, for sweet dishes, 139
lemon brandy (for sweet dishes),
139.
Flounders, to boil, and fry, 67
Flour, browned. for thickening soups,
&e., 130
Flour of potatoes (fecule de pommes
de terre), 140
of rice, 141
Fondu, a, 413
Forced eggs, or eggs en surprise, 424
eggs, for salad,
fowl, 262
turkey, 258
Forcemeats, general remarks on, 142
Forcemeat balls for mock turtle, No.
b]
chestnut, No. 15, 149
Mr. Cooke’s, for geese or ducks,
N ,
good common, for veal, turkeys,
&c. No. 1, 143
another good common, No. 2, 143
French, an excellent, No. 16, 149
French, called queneliles, No. 17,
150

for hare, No. 8, 146

mushroom, No. 7, 145

oyster, No. 5, 145

oyster, finer, No. 6, 145

for raised, and other cold pies,

No. 18, 151

common, suet, No. 14, 144

superior suet, No. 3, 144 e
Fourneau économique, or portable

_. French furnace, 464, 465
Fowl, a, to bone, without opening it,254

to bone, another way, 255

to broil, 263

ad la Carlsfors, 262 Q

curried, 289

fried, a la Malabar, 266

hashed, 266

minced (French receipt), 266

INDEX.

Fowl, roast (French receipt), 262

to roast a, 261

scallops of, aw béchamel, 267
Fowls @ la mayonnaise, 268

to bone, for fricassees, curries, and

pies, 256

boiled, 263

cutlets of, 265

fricasseed, 264

cold, en friture, 267

cold, grillade of, 268

ane ee housekeeper’s receipt,

French batter, for frying fruit, vege-
tables, &c., 129 .

melted butter, 98, 99
Miers cake, or Sally Lunn,
crust, for hot or cold pies, 337
receipt for boiling a ham, 247
maitre d’hotel sauce, 106, 107
rice pudding, 397
partridges, 281
semoulina pudding, 395
salad, 315
salad dressing, 112

\ galmi, or hash of game, 283
thickening, or roux, 96
beans, @ la Francaise, 310

ee igi Aer excellent receipt for,

beans, to boil, $10
Fresh herrings( Farleigh receipt for), 66
Fricandeau of veal, 210
Fried anchovies in batter, 81
bread -crumbs, 130
bread for garnishing, 130
canellons, 417
cod-fish, slices of, 54
Jerusalem artichokes, 328
mackerel, 63
parsneps, 327
potatoes, 303.571
salsify, 331
Fritters, apple or apricot, 416
brioche, 416 e
cake, 415
Kentish, 414
lemon, 417_—_—i;.
mincemeat (very good), 415
orange, 416
plain, common, 414
of plum-pudding, 415
potato, 417
of spring fruit (rhubarb), 416 —
Venetian, 415
Fruit, to bottle for winter use, 463
creams, 446
en chemise, 539
isinglass jellies, 436. 438
stewed, 428, 430, 431

INDEX.

Fruit tart, with royal icing, 353
Frying, general directions for, 162

Galantine of chicken, 255
Galette, 530
Game, to choose, 271
directions for keeping, 272
gravy of, 283
Garlic, mild ragout of, 122
recommended in sauces, 112
mutton served on, 224
vinegar, 138
Gdteaw of mixed fruits, 432
de pommes, 431
de semoule, or French semoulina
pudding, 395
de riz, or French rice pudding, 397
Geneva buns, 5
rolls, 544
Genevese sauce, 108
Genoises, a la Reine, or her Majesty’s
pastry, 355
Gentle Bere (the) courte a la créme,
57.
German puffs, 455
pudding, 376
pudding sauce (delicious), 126
Gertrude @ la Créme, 448
Gherkins, to pickle, 503
to pickle, French receipt, 504
Ginger biscuits, cheap, 524

biscuits, Judge ‘Franks’ (very
good), 525

bread, 522, 523, 524

candy, 585

wine (excellent), 554
Glaze, to make, 98
Glaze, to, pastry, 335
Glazing, directions for, 168
for fine pastry and cakes, 578
Goose, to deprive of its strong odour,
260

to roast, 260
to roast a green, 261
Gooseberries, to bottle for tarts, 470
dried, with sugar, 472
dried, without sugar, 473
jelly of, 471
Gooseberry jam, red, 470
jam, very fine, 471
jelly, 471, 472
paste, 472
pudding, 372, 400
sauce for mackerel, 115
Grape jelly, 490
Gravies, to heighten the colour and
flavour of, 83
introductory remarks on, 82
_ shin of beef stock for, 84

595

Gravy, good beef or veal (English
receipt), 86
common brown, 91
rich brown, 87
cheap, for a fowl, 90
another cheap, 91
curried, 294
Espagnole, highly-flavoured, 88
Espagnole with wine, 89
for a goose, 91
in haste, 90
jus he rognons, or kidney gravy,

orange, for wild fowl, 92

veal, rich, deep-coloured, 86

veal, rich, pale, or consommée,
85 ‘

for venison, 87

another ditto, 87

rich, for venison, 88

sweet sauce, or gravy, for venison,
88

soup, or stock, clear, pale, 8
soup, cheap, clear, 9
soup, another receipt for, 9
Green apricots, stewed, 482
gage jam, or marmalade, 484
goose, to roast, 261
mint sauce, 116
mint vinegar, 137
orange plum, preserve of, 484
peas, @ la Frangaise, 309
peas, to boil, 309
peas, with cream, 310
peas-soup, cheap, 40
peas-soup, excellent, 39
peas-soup, without meat, 39
Groseiilée, 483
Ground rice puddings, 99, 400
in pudding-pies, 359
Grouse, to roast, 282
salmé of, 283
Grouse in soup, 34
Guava, English, 490
strawberry jelly, which resem-
bles, 476
Guinea-fowl, to roast, 262

Haddocks, baked, 66
to boil, 65
Finnan, to dress, 66
to fry, 66

Hake, to dress, 60

Ham, to bake a, 247

» to boil a, 246

to boil a (French receipt), 247
potted, 296

Hams, Bordyke receipt for, 245
to pickle, 244

596

Hams, superior to Westphalia, 244
genuine Yorkshire receipt for, 242
Hamburgh pickle, for hams, beef, and
tongues, 185
another pickle, for hams, beef,
and tongues, 183
Hare, to choose, 272
forcemeat for, No. 8, 146
sweet gravy for, 276
in pie, 342
to roast, 274
to roast, superior receipt, 275
soup, superlative, 31
soup, a less expensive, 32
stewed, 276
Harricots blancs, 328
Harrico, Norman, 212
Hashed Dowtilli, 194
calf’s head, 201
fowl, 266
venison, 274
Hash, a, of cold beef or mutton (ex-
cellent), 193
common, of cold beef or mutton,
193
cheap, of calf’s head, 201
Norman, 194
Haunch of mutton, to roast, 222
of venison, to roast, 272
Herrings, fresh, 66
red, a la Dauphin, 81

Iced pudding, Nesselréde, 461
Ice, advantage of, for jellies, fine
paste, &e., 385
Icing, for tarts, Ke., 335
white or coloured, for fine pastry,
. or cakes, 578
Imperatrice plums, to dry, 492
very fine marmalade of, 491
Imperial gooseberry fool, 452
Imperials, 515
Indian currie, common, 290
pudding, 408
Ingoidsby Christmas paiditie, 880
Trish stew, 231
Isinglass to clarify, 426
jelly, Constantia, 437
jelly, orange, 485
jelly, strawberry, and other fruit,
438

Italian. creams, 446
jellies, 489
meringues, 522
modes of dressing maccaroni, 421
pork cheese, 249

dam, apricot, 486 *
barberry, 498

INDEX.

Jam, cherry, 478

currant, green, 478

currant, red, superlative, 480

currant, white, a beautiful pre-
serve, 481

gooseberry, red, 470

gooseberry, red, very fine, 471

green gooseberry, 470

of mixed fruits, 483

of Mogul plums, 485

peach (or nectarine), 488

raspberry, 477

eg gree very good, red or white,

rhubarb, 468

strawberry, 475 i
Jaumange, or jaune- manger, called

also Dutch flummery, 448

Jellies, calf’s feet stock for, 425

to clarify caif’s feet stock for, 426

to clarify isinglass for, 426

meat, for pies and sauces, 92

cheaper meat, 93
Jelly, apple, 493

apple, exceedingly fine, 493

apple, calf’s feet, 334

barberry, 497

calf’s feet, 432, 484

lemon, calf’s feet, 487

orange, calf’s feet, 4385

orange isinglass, 436

Constantia, 487—

black currant, common, 482

black currant, fine, 482

currant, red, 479

currant, red, French, 480

red currant superlative (Norman

receipt), 479

currant, white, very fine, 481

damson, 489

green gooseberry, 469

ripe gooseberry, 472

raspberry, 478

strawberry (very fine), 476
John Dory, to boil a, 51 ;
Judge Franks’ ginger biscuits, 525
Jumbles, 527

Kater’s, Captain, receipt for boiling
potatoes, 302
Kentish, receipt for cutting up and
curing a pig, 243
fritters, 414
suet pudding, 372

Kidneys, mutton, @ la Francaise, 232

mutton, to broil, 233

mutton Oxford receipt for, 233
Kidney, beef, to dress, 192

veal, fat “of, for pudding, 369

a en ee

“

INDEX.

Lady’s the, sauce for fish, 108
Lamb, cuilets, 2
leg of, with white sauce, 234
roast join of, 234
- loin of, stewed in butter, 235
to roast a quarter of, 233
roast saddle of, 234
sauce for, 234
Lard, to melt, 287
to preserve unmelted, for many
months, 237
to, a pheasant, 167
Larding, general directions for, 166
Larding-pins, 166
Lardoons, 166
Leeks, to boil, 307
Lemonade, delicious, milk, 540
excellent, portable, 540
Lemon brandy, 139
cakes, 526
cheesecakes, 360
conserve, 501
creams, 445
dumplings, 387
fritters, 417
jelly, calf’s feet, 437
pickle, or catsup, 135
pudding, an excellent, 391
pudding, another receipt for, 391
sponge, or moulded cream, 451 ~
suet pudding, 391
tartlets, 306
Lemons in mincemeat, 357
to pickle, 506
Lettuces, in mayonnaise of fowls, 268
stewed, 307
in salads, 315
Limes, to pickle, 509
Lie, or ley, for washing pudding-
cloths, 366
Liver, calf’s, fried, 217
to roast, 217
stoved, or stewed,
Lobsters, to boil, 75
Lobster, or crab, buttered, 75
butter, 298
fricasseed, or au béchamel, 75
patties,
salad, 573. 584
vol-au-vent, 348

Macaroons, almond, 514
cocoa-nut (very fine), 515
orange-flower, 514
Macaroncini, to boil and to choose,
579

Maccaroni, Genoa, to boil, 579
Neapolitan, to boil, 579
ribbon (or dazanges), to boil, 421

597

Maccaroni, to dress @ la Reine, 422
to dress in various ways, 421
with gravy, 421
soup, 11
sweet, 462

Mackerel, to bake, 62
to boil, 62
broiled whole, 64
fillets of, boiled, 63 -
fillets of, broiled or fried, 63
fillets of, stewed in wine, 65
fried (French receipt), 63

Madeira cake, 519

Madeleine puddings, to serve cold, 897

Magnum bonum plumbs, to dry, or

preserve, 485

Maitre d’hotel, sauce, cold, 107
sauce, French, 107
sauce, maigre, 107
tai eld (English receipt for),

Majesty’s, her, pastry, 355
pudding, 375
Mandrang, or mandram, West In-
dian receipt, 312
another receipt for, 312
Mangoes, Indian, 503
peach, 504 *
Marmalade, apple, for Charlotte, 458
apricot, 486
barberry, 498
Imperatrice plum, 491
orange, 499
orange, genuine Scotch receipt
for, 500
peach, 488
quince, 495
quince and apple, 496
Marrow bones, baked, 196
to boil, 195
Marrow in pudding, 374
clarified, to keep, 196
vegetable, to dress in various
ways, 318
vegetable soup, 18
Mashed, artichokes, Jerusalem, 328
carrots, 327
parsneps (see turnips), 324
potatoes, 303
potatoes, crust of, for pasty, 340
gan (an excellent receipt for),
3

Mayonnaise, a delicious sauce to
serve with cold meat, &c., 113
Mayor’s, the Lord, soup, 15
soup (Author’s receipt for), 15
Meat, jellies for, pies, 92. 93
pies, crust for, 337, 338
puddings, 368, 369
rolls, 351
Mélange of fruit for dessert, 589

598

Mélange, or mixed preserve, 483
Melon, to serve with meat, 314
sweet pickle of, to serve with
roast meat (good), 505
Melted butter, 98, 99
Meringue of pears, or other fruit, 544
Meringues, 521
Italian, 522
Milk, cocoa-nut flavoured, for sweet
dishes, 428
lemonade, delicious, 540
Mild eschalot sauce, 122
mustard, 129
ragout of garlic, or Vail @ la
Bordelaise, 122
Minced, collops, 189, 190
fowl, 266
veal, 218
veal, with oysters, 219
Mincemeat, (Author’s receipt), 357
superlative, 357
fritters, 415
pudding; 382
Mince pies, 358
royal, 358
Miniature round of beef, 187
Mint julep, 552
sauce, 116
Miss Bremer’s pudding, 378
Mock, brawn, 248
turtle soup, 23
turtle soup, good old fashioned, 26
venison, 225
Modern blamange-mould, 447
cake-mould, 511_ -
chicken pie, 843,
jelly-mould,
potato pasty, 344
Monitor’s at or tourte @ la Judd,
358

Moor game, to roast and hash, 282,
283

Mould for French pies, or casseroles
of rice, 334
Mull, to, wine, an excellent receipt
(French), 550
Mullagatawny soup, 34
vegetable, 37
Mullet, grey, to boil, 68
Penzance mode of dressing, 60
red, to bake, broil, or roast, 67
Mushroom catsup, 132
catsup, another receipt for, 18
catsup, double, 134
forcemeat, 145
powder, 140
sauce, brown, 118
sauce, another, 118
sauce, white, 118
care am croute aus champignons,
] 5

INDEX.

Mushrooms, aw beurre, 320 -
dried, 189
partridges with, 280
in pigeon pie, 344
pickled, in brine for winter use,
507
to pickle, 506
potted (delicious), 321
Mussel-plums, preserves of, 485
Mustard, to make, 129
Tartar, 128
horseradish vinegar for ditto, 138
Mutton, broth, 44
to choose, 221
cutlets broiled, and Sowbdise sauce,
235
cutlets, to broil, 230
cutlets, stewed in their own gravy,
229
fillet of, 227
haunch’ of, to roast, 222
kidneys @ la Francaise, 232
kidney, broiled, 233
kidneys, Oxford’ receipt for, 233
leg of, to boil (an excellent re-
ceipt), 226
leg of, boned and forced, 224
leg of, braised, 224.
leg of, roast, 293
leg of, roast (superior receipt for),
294

leg of, cold roast, 226

loin of, roast, 927

loin of, stewed like venison, 228

pie, common, 345

pie, good, 345

saddle of, to roast, 222

shoulder of, to bake with po-
tatoes, 164

_ shoulder of, to roast, 228

shoulder of, forced, 229

shoulder of, spiced, 228

a good family stew of, 231

stock for soup, 14

Nasturtiums, to pickle, 509
Nesselréde cream, 441.
pudding, 461 hee
Norfolk cheesecakes, a
sauce, 99 %
Norman harricot, 212 —
Nougat, 534 poh ae
Nouitiles, to make, 5 :

Old Bachelor’s, the, punch, 551
fashioned boiled custard, 452 —..

Oil, in sauces and salads, 113. 312.

315

INDEX.

Olive sauce, 124.
Omlette aux fines herbes, 410
souffiée, 411
Omlets, observations on, 409
Omlet, common, 410
Onion sauce, brown, 121
sauce, brown, another receipt
for, 121
sauce, white, 121
and sage stuffing for ducks and
geese, No. 9, 146
rich white sauce of, or Soubise,
121, 122
Onions, to pickle, 506
stewed, 332
Orange, baskets for jelly, 567
calf’s feet jelly, 435
cheesecakes, or pudding, 501
conserve, 501
fritters, 416
gravy, 92
isinglass jelly, 436
marmalade,
plums, preserve of, 434
salad, 540
snowballs, 387
wine, 554
Orange-flower, candy, 536
ratafia, 548
Oranges, compote of (a Hebrew dish),
540

filled with jelly in stripes, 436
warmed, 540
Oven, American, 163
management of, 560
objection to iron ones, 561
Oxfurd receipt for Bishop, 549
for mutton kidneys, 233
punch, 548
Ox-tail, broiled, 181
stewed, 181
soup, 43
Ox tongue, to pickle, 183
potted, 297
Oyster forcemeat, No. 5, 145
patties, 349
sauce, common, 105
sauce, good, 104
sausages, 80
soup, white, or d la Reine, 30
Oysters, curried, 293
to feed, 78
to fry, 80 '
scalloped, d@ la Reine, 80
to scallop, 79
to stew, 78
to stew, another receipt, 79

Pain devworc frais, or sausage-meat
, 250

599

Pain de veau, or veal cake, 209
Pain de veau (Bordyke receipt), 209
Palace-bonbons, 537
Palates, beef, to dress, 180, 181
Panada, No. 19, 151
Pancakes, 414
Parsley and butter, 114
to crisp, 127

fried, 127

kee dt for colouring sauces

Parsneps to boil, 327
fried, 327
Partridge, broiled, 281
broiled (French receipt), 281
ph or red-legged, to dress,
gravy, 230
potied, 297
pudding, 370
soup, 34
Partridges, boiled, 280
with mushrooms, 280
to roast, 279
salmi, or rich hash of, 283
salmi of (French), 283
Paste, almond, 355
brioche, 339
cherry (French), 475
currant, 481
gooseberry, 472
very good light, 336
English puff, 336
fine puff, or fewilletage, 335
quince, 496
Pastry, to colour almonds or sugar-
grains for, 513
icing for, 335
sugar-icing for, 579
her Majesty’s, 355
general remarks on, 334.
sandwiches, 362
Pasty, potato, 340
varieties of, 341
mould for, 330
Pate Brisée, or French crust for hot
or cold pies, 337
Patties a la Cardinale, 351
a la Pontife, 350
good chicken, 350
oyster, 349
sweet boiled, 388
tartlets, or small vols-au-vents,
tc make, 351
Peach, fritters, 416
jam, or marmalade, 488
mangoes, 504
Peaches, compote of, 430
to, dry, an easy and excellent
Keeipt, 486
to pickle, 505

600

Peaches, preserved in brandy (Rotter-
dam receipt), 566
stewed, a second receipt for, 430
Suédoise of, 458
vol-au-vent of, 349
Pears, baked, 552
meringue of, 457
Peas, green, to boil, 309
: green, with cream, 310
green, soup of, 39, 40
green, stewed, @ la Francaise,
310

pudding, 575
soup, common, 42
soup, without meat, 42
soup, rich, 41 —
Tarch, to boil, 73
to fry, 73
Pheasant, boudin of, 278
to roast, 278
sali of, 283
soup, 82 34
Pickle, for beef, tongues, and hams,
183 :

Pickle t6, barberries, 510
beet-root, 508
cherries, 503
eschalots, 508 se
gherkins, 504 3
gherkins (French ma 504
limes, 509
lemons, 509 *
mushrooms in brine, 507
mushrooms (an excellent receipt),

50!

nasturtiums, 509
onions, 508 ~
peaches, and peach mangoes, 504
pork, 183
red cabbage, 510
Siberian crabs, 510
walnuts, 507 °
Pickles, where to be procured good,
503

general remarks on, 502
Pie, beef-steak, 344
a common chicken, 344
a modern chicken, 343
a good common English game,
342
mutton, common, 345
a good mutton, 345
pigeon, 344
Pies, excellent bread-crust for, 565
good crust for, 337
suet-crust for, 338
meat jelly for, 92
mince, 358
mince royal, 358
pudding, 359 ©
raised, 346

_ INDEX.

Pigeons, to boil, 270
to roast, 270 =

served with cresses, for second.

course, 270
Pig, divisions. of, 23
to bake a sucking, 239
sucking, en blanguectie, 239
to roast a sucking, 238
a la Tartare, 239
Pig’s cheeks, to pickle, 244
feet and ears, in brawn, 248
Pike, to bake, 72
to bake (superior receipt) 7
to boil, 71
Pintail, or Sea Pheasant, to roast,
285
Pippins, Normandy, to stew, 541
Piquante sauce, 109

Pistachio nuts, to ornament eeet

dishes, 442
Plaice, to boil, 67
to fry, 67
Plum-puddings, 381, 382

. Plums, compote of, 430

Poélée, 154

Poet’s the, receipt for salad, 578

Polenta (an Italian dish), good, 423

Pommes au beurre, or buttered
apples, 459

Pontac catsup, 186

Poor author’s pudding, 407

Poor curate’s pudding, 576.

~Poor man’s sauce, 111

Pork, to choose, 236
cutlets of, to broil or fry, 241
Italian cheese of, 249
observations on, '236
to pickle, 183
to roast, 240
to roast a saddle of, 240
sausages of, 250, 251
Portable, lemonade, 540
Potage @ la Reine, 29
Pot-au-Feu, or stock pot, 6
fowls &c., boiled in, 6
Potato-balls (English), 304
boulettes (good), 304
bread, 551
fritters, 417
flour, ‘or fecule de pommes de
terre, 140
pasty (modern), 340
puddings, 400, 401
ribbons, to serve with cheese,
§71 :
rissoles, French, 304
soup, 20
Potatoes, @ la créme, 805
a la mattre @hotel, 305
to boil (genuine Irish receipt), 300
to boil (Lancashire receipt), 301

INDEX.

Potatoes, to boil (Captain Kater’s re-
ceipt), 302
fried, 303
mashed, and moulded in various
ways, 303
new, in butter, 302
new, to boil, 301
to roast, or bake, 802
scooped, 302
Potted anchovies, 297
cyrapiny partridge, or pheasant,

ham, 296
lobster, 298
meats (various), 295
meat, for the second course, 584
mushrooms, 321
, OX-tongue, 297
shrimps, 298
Poultry, to bone, 254
to choose, 253
observations on keeping, 258
to lard, 167
Powder, mushroom, 140
of savoury herbs, 141
Prawns, to boil, 77
to pot (see shrimps), 298
Prepared apple or quince juice, 427
calf’s head (the cook’s receipt),199
Preserve, a, fine, of red currants, 480
delicious, of white currants, 481
an excellent, of the green orange,
or Stonewood plum, 484
groseillée, a mixed, 483
eae good mélange or mixed,

nursery, 482
Preserve to, the colour and flavour of
fruit-jams, and jellies, 467
Preserving-pan, 466 ;
Preserves, French furnace and stew-
pan, convenient for making,
464, 465
ange rules and directions for,

Pruneaux de Tours, or compote of
dried plums, 541
Prince Albert’s pudding, 376
Pudding (baked), @ éa@ Paysanne, 408
almond, 390
apple (or custard), 402
another apple, 402
common apple, 402
apple and rice, 407
Bakewell, 392
barberry and rice, 406
good bread, 394, 395
common bread and butter, 394
rich bread and butter, 393
damson and rice, 406
the Duchess’s, 401

601

Pudding, the elegant economist’s, 393
Essex, cheap and good, 403
Gabrielle’s, or sweet casserole of

rice, 403
green gooseberry, 400
good ground rice, 399
a common ground rice, 400
hasty, 408
Indian, 408
lemon, 391
an excellent lemon, 391
lemon-suet, 391
Normandy, 406
poor author’s, 407
poor curate’s, 576
(baked), potato, 400
a richer potato, 401
the printers’, 390
the publishers’, 374
a common raisin, 407
a richer raisin, 407
raspberry, or Dutch custard, 403
ratafia, 392 _ ;
@ common rice, 398
a French rice, or Gdteau de riz,
_ 397
ice, meringué, 399

2 good semoulina, 395
@ French semoulina (or Gdieas
de semoule), 895
sponge cake, 401
vermicelli, 404
common Yorkshire, 406
good Yorkshire, 405
Pudding (boiled) @ la Scoones, 380
apple, cherry, currant, or any
other fresh fruit, 372
@ common apple, 373
the author’s Christmas, 382
common batter, 370
another batter, 371
batter and fruit, 371
beef-steak, or John Buil’s, 368
beef-steak, epicurean receipt for,
369

small beef-steak, 69

a black cap, 371

Ruth Pinch’s, or beef-steak pud-
ding, @ la Dickens, 389

superlative beef-steak, 369

bread, 384

brown bread, 384

Bremer’s, Miss, 378

cabinet, 377

a very fine cabinet, 377

cottage Christmas, 381

common custard, 375

small custard, 375

the elegant economist’s, 380

German pudding and sauce, 376

602

Puddings, Ingoldsby ‘. tmas pud-

dings, 380

her Majesty’s, 375

an excellent small mincemeat,
382

mutton, 370

partridge, 370

peas, 575

small light plum, 381

another small light plum, 381

vegetable plum, 3882 _ :

a very good raisin, 379

a superior raisin, 379

a cheap rice, 385

a good rice, 385

rice and gooseberry, 885

rolled, 383

a cheap suet, 372

another suet, 372

Kentish suet, 372

tomata, 386

a well, 383

Puddings, general. directions for,

baked, 389

to mix batter for, 366

general directions for —
364 ! ,

boiled,

butter crust for, 367
cloths for, to wash, 366
suet-crust, for, 367
to clean currants for, 366 ~—
small cocoa-nut, 40
Madeleine, to serve cold, 307
Sutherland, or castle, 396
Pudding-pies, 359
a common receipt for, 359
Puff-paste, canellons of, 417
English, 336
finest, or feuillétage, 385
very good light, 336
Puffs a pra ta§ (extremely good),

German, 445
raspberry, or other fruit, 369
Punch, old bachelor’s, 551
Oxford, 548
Regent’s, or George IV.’s (a ge-
nuine receipt), 551
sauce for sweet puddings, 126

Purée of artichokes, 123 Swit
fine, of onions, or Soubise sauce,
121, 122

of tomatas, 320
of turnips, 123 :
of vegetable marrow, 123

Quenelles, or French forcemeat, 150
Queen cakes, 527
Queen’s custard, 454

INDEX.

Queen Mab’s pudding, 440
Quince blamange, 448
blamange, with almond cream, 449
custards, 454
jelly, 494
juice, prepared, 427
marmalade, 495
paste, 496
ah

Rabbits, to boil, 277
Rabbit, to fry, 277
to roast, 277
soup, @ la Reine, 30
soup, brown, 31
Radishes, turnip, to boil, 307
Raisin puddings, 379. 407
wine, which resembles foreign, 553
Ramakins @ l’ Ude, 363
Raspberries, to preserve for creams
or ices, without boiling, 477
Raspberry jam, 477
jam, red or white, 476
jelly, for flavouring creams, 478
jelly, another good, 478
vinegar, very fine, 547
Ratafia, orange flower, 548
pudding, 392
Red cabbage, to stew, 330
Regent’s, or George IV.’s punch, (ge-
nuine), 551
Rein-Deer tongues, to dress, 577
Remoulade, 118
ere or spring fruit, compote of,
28

Rice, to boil for curries, or mullaga-

tawny soup, 36, 37

boiled, to serve with
fruit, &c., 388

cake, 51

casserole of, savoury, 342

casserole of, sweet, 403

croquettes of, 418, 419

savoury croquettes of, 419

puddings, 385, 397, 398, 399

soup, 12

soup, white, 13

sweet, @ la Portugaise, or aroc®

docé, 460

Rice-flour, to make, 141

soup, 13

to thicken soups with, 4
Rissoles, 420

of fish, 420

very savoury, 420
Roasting, general directions for, 155

slow method of, 157

‘Roast beef, (see Chapter VIII.)

chestnuts, 543
game, (see Chapter XIII.)

stewed

ee a no

INDEX.

Roast lamb, (see Chapter X.)
mutton, (see Chapter X.)
potatoes, 302
pork, (see Chapter XI.)
poultry, (see Chapter XII,)
veal, (see Chapter IX.)

_ Rolled, calf’s head, 199
shoulder of mutton, 228, 229
shoulder of yeal, 207
ribs of beef, 184
sirloin of beef, 179

Roll, beef, or canellon de boeuf, 188

Rolls, Geneva, 564

Roux, or French thickening brown, 96
white, 96

Rusks, brioche, 565

Rusks, 564

Sago, moulded, with apple-juice, 583
soup, 12
Salad, to dress, 314
French, 315
lobster, 573
very elegant lobster, 584
orange, 540
peach, 540
Suffolk, 315
walnut, or des cerneaux, 315
Yorkshire ploughman’s, 315
dressings, and sauces, 111, 112
Salamander to brown with, 169
Salmi of moor fowl, pheasants or
partridges, 283 :
French, or hash of game, 288
of wild fowl, 285 .
Salmon, @ la Genevese, 52
& la St. Marcel, 58
to bake, 164
to boil, 52
to broil, 167
crimped, 52
in potato pastry, 340
to roast, 164
Salsify, to boil, 331
to fry in batter,-331
Salt fish, to boil, 55
a la Maitre @hotel, 56
Salt to, beef, in various ways, 182,
183

limes and lemons, for pickling,

Sauce, anchovy, 105
baked apple, 120
boiled apple, 120
brown apple, 120
artichoke, 123
asparagus, for lamb cutlets, 115
béchamel, 97
béchamel maitgre, 98

602

Sauce, another common déchamel,
98

bread, 102

bread, with onion, 108

caper, 116

brown caper, 116

caper for fish, 117

celery, 124

brown chestnut, 125

white chestnut, 125

Chetney, 132

Christopher North’s own. (for
many meats), 110

cream, for fish, 106

common cucumber, 117

another common cucumber, 117

white cucumber, 117

Dutch, 102

common egg, 101

egg, for calf’s head, 109

very good egg, 100

epicurean, 136

mild eschalot, 122

Espagnole, 88

_Espagnole, with wine, 89

fennel, 114

see, 102

vese, or sauce Genevoise,

_ German, for fricassees, 97

tooseberry, for mackerel, 115

_horse-radish, excellent, to serve

hot or cold, with roast heef, 109

hot horse-radish, 110

the lady’s, for fish, 108

common lobsier, 103

good lobster, 104

Maitre Whotel,
sauce, 107

cold Maitre @hotel, 107

Maitre Whotel sauce maigre,
107

sharp Maitre d’hotel, 103

mayonnaise (very fine), to serve
with cold meat, fish, or vege-
tables, 113

green mint for roast lamb, 116

brown mushroom, 118

another mushroom, 118 -

white mushroom, 118

Norfolk, 99

olive, 124

brown onion, 121

another brown onion, 121

white onion, 121

common oyster, 105

good oyster, 104

piquante, 109

poor man’s, 111

common pudding, 126 =

delicious, German pudding, 126

or steward’s

604

sweet pudding, 125
the Rajah’s, 130
remoulude, 113
Robert, 109

shrimp, 105
common sorrel, 115
Soubise, 121
Soubise, French receipt, 122
Spanish, 88
common tomata, 118
a finer tomata, 119

INDEX.

Sauce punch, for sweet puddings, 126 | Solimemmne, a, or rich French breake

fast cake, 519
Sorrel sauce, 115
Sougié, Louise Franks’ citron, 412
rice, 412
Soufié-pan, 400
Sougiés, remarks on, 411
small sugar, 544
Sounds, cods’, to boil, 56
to fry ‘in batter, 56
Soup, apple, 20
artichoke, or Palestine, 18
good calf’s head, not expensive,

tournée, or thickened pale gravy,

excellent titrnip, 123
very common white, 101
English white, 101

Saucisses @ Vail, or garlic-flavoured

sausages, 252

Que prunes, or truffied sausages,

Ay eee
Sausage-meat, cake of, 250
in chicken-pie, 343
to make, 250, 251
boned turkey, filled with, 258

Sausage-soup (Swedish), 577

Sausages, boiled, 251
: and chestnuts (an excellei nt
251 ion
Savoury Cone 571
Scotch marmalade, 500

Scottish short-bread, excellent, 582

Sea-kale to boil, 305
stewed in gravy, 305

-Sea-pheasant, or pintail, to roast,
285
Sefton, a, oe vrs, 352
3

Sefton fancies, 36

Shad, Touraine fashion, 70

Shrimp sauce, 105
toasts, 77

Shrimps, to boil, 77
eroquettes of, 571
potted, 298

Short crust (excellent) for sweet

pastry, 581
Sippets @ la Reine, 5
fried, 5
Sirloin of beef, to roast, 170
stewed, 179 :
Smelts to bake, 68
to fry, 68
Snipes, to roast, 284
Soda cake, 555
Soles, “eth or au plat, 59
to boil,
to sade 45
fillets of, 58
to fry, 57
stewed in cream, 59

common carrot, 18

a finer carrot, 19

chestnut, 17

cocoa-nut, 17

cucumber, 38

clear, pale gravy, 8

another gravy, 9

cheap, clear gravy, 9

superlative hare, 31

a less expensive hare, 32

in haste, 44

the Lord Mayor’s, 15

the Lord Mayor’s (Author’s re-
ceipt for), 15

maccaroni, 11

milk, with vermicelli, 45

mock turtle,

good ee fashioned mock turtle,

mullagatany, 34

vegetable mullagatawny, 37 ,

mutton stock for soups, 14

oxtail, 43

white oyster, or oyster-soup @ la
Reine, 80

parsnep, 21

another parsnep, 21

partridge, 34

common peas, 42

peas, without meat, 42

rich peas, 41

a cheap green peas, 40°

an excellent green peas, 39

green peas, without meat, 39

pheasant, 32

another pheasant, 34

potage aux nouilles, or taillerine
soup, 12

potage ala Reine, 29-

potato, 20

rabbit @ la Reine, 30

brown rabbit, 31

Trice, 12

rice flour, 18

white rice, 18

sago, 12

sausage (Swedish receipt), 877

INDEX.

» Soup, semoulina (or soup @ la
, Semoule), 11
a cheap and good stew, 43
tapioca, 12
common turnip, 19
@ quickly made turnip, 20
vermicelli (or potage au vermi-
celle), 10
Westerfield white, 21
a richer white, 22
Soups, introductory remarks on, 1
to fry bread to serve with, 4
nouilles to serve in, 5
to thicken, 3
vegetable vermicelli for, 5
Spanish sauce, or Espagnole, 88
sauce with wine, 89
Spiced beef, 185, 186
Spinach, @ VP Anglaise, or English
fashion, 306
common English modes, of dress-
ing, 307
French receipt for, 306
green, for colouring sweet dishes,
C.,
Steaks, beef, 172
Steaming, general directions for, 157
Stewed beef, sirloin of, 179
beef-steak, 172, 174, 175
beef-steak, in its own gravy, 175
__ beet-root, 330
- eabbage, 330
calf’s feet, 216
calf’s liver, 578
carp, 584
celery, 332
chestnuts, 332
cod fish, 54, 55
cucumber, 313
eels, 74
ee (various), 428, 429, 430,
31

hare, 276

lamb cutlets, 235

leg a lamb with white sauce,
2

-loin of lamb, in butter, 235

lettuces, 307

mackerel, in wine, 64

fillets of mackerel, in wine (ex-
cellent), 65

mutton cutlets, in their owr
gravy, 229

loin of mutton, 228

mushrooms, 321

onions, 332

oxtails, 181

ox, or beef tongue (Bordyke re-
ceipt), 190

oysters, 78

sea-kale in gravy, 305

605

Stewed, soles in cream, 59

tomatas, 318

trout, 70

turnips in butter, 325

turnips in gravy, 325

knuckle of veal, with rice or

green peas, 208

shoulder of veal, 207

shoulder of venison, 273
Stew, a good English, 177

a good family, 231

a German, 176

an Irish, 231

Spring stew of veal, 211

a Welsh, 176 .
Stew to, shin of beef, 177

arump of beef, 179
Stewing, general directions for, 158
Stock, clear pale, 8

for white soup, 13

mutton, for soups, 14

shin of beef, for gravies, 84

veal, for white soups, 8
Store-flavouring, for puddings, cakes,
and sweet dishes, 139
Store-mixture for lemon tartlets,
which will remain good for a
year or two, 568

‘Store sauces, from page 131 to 141

Strawberries, to preserve, for favour-

» ing creams, &c., 477

Strawberry, acid royal, 548

jam, 475

jelly, 476

isinglass jelly, 488

tartlets, 567

vinegar, of delicious flavour, 545

Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt), 107

Stuffing for geese and ducks, No. 9,
146

Cook’s stuffing for geese and
ducks, 147

Suédoise, or apple hedgehog,

Suédoise of peaches,

Sugar-glazings, and icings, for fine
pastry and cakes, 578

barley, 534

Sugar, to boil, from candy to carae

mel,

to clarify, 532

in grains, to colour, 513
sovpjlés, small, 544
Sweetbreads, to dress, 215

a la Maitre Whotel, 215
cutlets of, 215 Us
roasted, 215

Sweet, patties d la minute, 570
Syllabub, a birthday, 550
Syllabubs, superior whipped, 446
Syrup, fine currant, or sirop de
grosetlles, 547

606

Tamarinds acid, in curries, 287
Tapioca soup, 12
Tarragon vinegar, 137
Tart, a good apple, 354
creamed apple, 354
barberry, 354
German, 352
the monitor’s, 359
Tartlets, of almond paste, 356
to make, 35]
strawberry, 554
creamed, 567
Tarts, to ice, 335
Tench, to fry, 73
Tipsy cake, 444 —
Toasting, directions for, 168
Toffie, Everton, 537
Toffie, another. way, 537
Tomata catsup, 136
sauces, 118, 119
Tomatas, forced, 318
purée of, 320
roast, 318
en salade, 318
stewed, 318
Tongue, to boil, 191
to stew, 191
Tongues, to pickle, 133. 190
rein-deer, to dress, 575
Tourte, a la Judd, 359
gentle critic’s, or creamed Tourte
Impériale, 574
meringuée or with royal icing,
353
Trifle brandy, or tipsy cake, 444
an excellent, 442
Swiss, very good, 443
Trout, to stew (a good common re-
ceipt), 70—
in wine, 71
Truffled omlet, 572
sausages,
Truffles, @ l’Italienne, 323
with champagne, @ la serviette,
: 822

in patties, 350
Turbot, to boil, 49
au béchamel, 51
ad la créme, 51
Turkey, to boil, 257
boned and forced, 258
to bone, 254
a la Flamande, 259
to roast, 256
Turnip radishes, to boil, 307
soups, 19, 20
Turnips to boil, 324
to mash, 324
stewed in butter, 325
in gravy, 225
in white sauce, 324

INDEX.

Vanilla rita: pudding, &e., 875,
1 &
Veal, blanquette of, with mushroons,
218

boiled breast of, 206
roast breast of, 206
cakes, 209 ~
to choose, 197
custard, or Sefton, 352
cutlets, 213
cutlets, or collops, @ la Fran-
eaise, 214
cutlets, @ U’Indienne, or Indian
fashion, 213
cutlets, @ la mode de Londres, or
London fashion, 215
boiled fillet of, 204
roast fillet of, 204 _
\ fricandeau of, 210 .
fricasseed, 220 ' :
a Sa of London receipt,)
576
boiled knuckle of, 208
knuckle of, en ragout, 208
knuckle of, with rice or green
peas, 208
boiled loin of, 205
roast loin of, 204
stewed loin of, 205
minced, 218
minced, with oysters (or mush-
rooms), 219 _
to bone a shoulder of, 206
stewed shoulder of, 207
spring stew of, 255
Sydney, 265
Vegetable marrow, to boil, fry, mash,
&e., 318
Vegetables, brine for boiling, 300
to clear insects from, 300
to keep fresh, 299
Velouté, 98
Venetian cake, (super excellent), 580
cakes, 580
fritters, (very good), 415
Venison, to choose, 271
to ‘hash, 274

a common hash of, 274 a”

mock, 225

to roast a haunch of, 272

sauces for, 87, 88

to stew a loin:of mutton like, 228
to stew a shoulder of, 273 .

Vermicelli, Neapolitan, to boil, 579

to choose, 579
pudding, 404
soup, 10

Vinegar, ‘cayenne, 139

celery, 137 -
cucumber, 137
eschalot, or garlic, 138

Sy > eee ae ae ee

Sn ee

INDEX. 607

Vinegar, horse-radish, 188
green mint, 137
raspberry (very fine), 547
strawberry (delicious), 545
tarragon, 137
Vol-au-vent, a, 347
Vol-au-vent, a la créme, 349
Vol-au-vent, a, of fruit, 349
Vols-au-vents, @ la Howitt, 362
small, to make, 351

Walnut catsup, 184, 135
Walnuts, to pickle, 507
salad of, 315

Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt), 69

White bait (Greenwich receipt), 69
Whitings, ee a la Frangaise, 61
to boil, 6
to fry, 60
fillets of, 60
Wild ducks, to roast, 285

Wild ducks salmi, or hash of, 285
Wine, elderberry, (good), 553.
eschalot, 188
ginger, 554
to mull (an excellent French re-
ceipt), 550
orange, 554
oe ee ge resembles foreign,

Wine-vase, antique, 545

Woodcock in pudding, 369

Woodcocks, or snipes, to roast, 284

Yeast, to Sate for bread or cakes,
560

Yorkshire ploughman’s salad, 315

pudding, common, 406
pudding, good, 405

Zest, the doctor’s, 14]

INDEX TO CARVING AND TRUSSING.

Carving, directions for, xxxvii
Carve, to, a brill, xxxviii

a brisket of beef, xxxix
ribs of beef, xxxix
No. 6, a sirloin of beef, xxxix
No. 18, a calf’s head, xli
No. 1, cod’s head and shoulders,
XXXVii
ducks, xlvi
No. 28, a wild duck, xlvii
No. 16, a boiled fowl, xliii
No. 17, a roast fowl, xliv
No. 22, a goose, xlvi
haddocks, xxxviii
No. 14, a ham, xlii
No. 25, a hare, xlvii
a John Dory, xxxviii
No. 8, a quarter of lamb, xl
mackerel, xxxviii
No. 5, a haunch of mutton, xxxix
No. 7, leg of mutton, xl
No. 4, saddle of mutton, xxxviii
No. 9, shoulder of mutton, xl
No. 18, a partridge, xliv

No. 15, a pheasant, xliii
pike, xxxviii_
No. 10, a sucking pig, xl
No. 20, a pigeon, xlv
No. 3, salmon, xxxviii
salmon-peel, xxxviii
soles, xxxvili
No. 21, a snipe, xlvi.
No. 12, a tongue, xli
No. 2, a turbot, xxxviii
No. 24, a turkey, xlvii
No. 11, a breast of veal, x
a fillet of veal, xli
a loin of veal, xli
No. 5, a haunch of venison, xxxix
No. 19, a woodcock, xlv
Trussing, general directions for, xxxiii
XXXiv. XXXV. Xxxvi
Truss, to, a fowl, partridge, pheasant, or
turkey, for roasting, xxxv
hares, or rabbits, xxxv
joints of meat, xxxvi
a woodcock, or snipe, xlv

GORY INDEX.

* INDEX TO APPENDIX II.

Chickens, to render, white for boiling, | Maize pudding, 584¢

584g Mush, or porridge of maize-meal, 584f
Eels, broiled with sage, 5843 Polenta @ ?’Italienne, 584f
Eggs, to poach, 584a pudding of, 584e

poached with gravy, 584b sweet pudding of, 584e
Indian corn, observations on, 584f Pudding, to steam a, in a common stew-
Lobster cutlets, 584¢ pan, 584 y

patties, superlative, 584d Shrimps, potted, whole, 584q

sausages, 584d Soles curried, 584a ‘
Lobsters, potted, 584c y Soup a la Julienne, 584h

potted in stripes, 584c spring, 584%

‘
5 . )

78)

January, 1847.

A CATALOGUE OF

NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS

PRINTED FOR

MESSRS. LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN,

AND LONGMANS,

LONDON.

CLASSIFIED INDEX.
AGRICULTURE & RURAL AFFAIRS.

Pages

Bayldon on Valuing Rents,etce. = - 6
Bray’s Essay on Agriculture, etc. - —iey
Crocker’s Land Surveying - : <9
Davy’s Agricultural Chemistry - =e
Johnson’s Farmer’s Encyclopedia - - 16
Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Agriculture - 18
Self-Instruction for Farmers,etc. 18

3 (Mrs.) Lady’sCountry Companion

Low’s Breeds ofthe DomesticatedAnimals 19
x5 Elements of pericaliare . ec ae o)
On Landed Property - - 19

3 On the Domesticated Animals - 19
Parnellon Roads - - - 23
Thomson on Fattening Cattle, ete. - - 29
Topham’ s Agricultural Chemistry - 30
Whitley’s Agricultural Geology : - 32

ARTS; MANUFACTURES, AND
ARGHITECTURE.

Brande’s Dictionary of Science,etc. - 7
Bray’s Essay on Manufactures, etc. ores
Buckler’s St. Alban’s Abbey - - es
Budge’s Miner’s Guide - - - errs
Cartoons (The Prize) = sat)
Cresy’s Encycl., of Civil Engineering - 9
De Burtin on the eee of Pictures 9
Dresden Gallery - - 10
Gwilt’s Encyclopedia of Architecture - J3
Haydon’s Lectures on Painting & Design 13
Holland’s Manufacturesin Metal - 14
Lerebours On Bhotasrspky - - - 17
Loudon’s Rural Architecture - - - 18
Moseley’s Engineering and Architecture 22
Parnell on Roads - - - - 23
Porter’s Manufacture of Silk - - - 24
Porcelain & Glass 24
Reid’ (Dr.) on Warming and Ventilating 25
Steam Engine (The), by the Artisan che 5
Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, ete. - 31
Wilkinson’s Engines of War - - - 32
BIOGRAPHY .
Aikin’s Life of Addison - - pe
Bell’s Lives of the British Poets - += 56
Dover’s Life of the King of Prussia - > 19
Dunham’s Early Writers of Britain - lg
Lives ofthe British Dramatists 19
Forster’s Statesmen ofthe Commonwealth 1 1
Life of Jebb - “ - i
Gleig” s British Military Commanders - 12
Grant (Mrs.) Memoir and Correspondeuce 12
James’s Lifeof the Black Prince - = 15
Eminent Foreign Statesmen =" 15
LAl’s (M.) Life of Dost Mohammed - - 2)
Leslie’s Life of Constable = = 17
Mackintosh’s Life of SirT, More - - 19
Maunder’s BiographicalTreasury - 21

Roscoe’s Lives of Eminent British Lawyers
Russell’s Bedford Correspondence

Shelley’s Literary Men of Italy, etc. -

Eminent French Writers -
Southey’ s Lives of the British Admirals -
Ss Life of Wesley - - - -
Townsend’s Twelve Eminent Judges =
Waterton’s Autobiography and Essays -

BOOKS OF GENERAL UALIEY

Acton’s (Eliza) Cookery Book -
Black’s Treatise on Brewing -
Collegian’s Guide -
Donovan’s Domestic Economy.
Hand-Book of Taste -
Hints on Etiquette ~ -
Hudson’s Parent’s Hand- Book
»» Executor’sGuide. _-
F3 On Making Wills :
Loudon’s Self Instruction -
(Mrs.) Amateur Gardener
Maunder’s Treasury of Knowledge =

9 Scientificand Literary Treasury
93 Treasury of History -
5 Biographical fet Lag ats -

Parkes’s Domestic Duties
Pycroft? s Course of English Reading
Reader’s Time Tables -
Riddle’s Eng. -Lat. and Lat. KHe. Dict.
Robinson’s Art of Curing, peeCRRAL, Ae
Rowton’s Debater - -
Short Whist - - -
Thomson’s Management of Sick Room -
Interest Tables - - -
Tomlins? Law Dictionary - ~- - -
Walker’s Dictionary, by Smart - -
Webster’s Encycl, of Domestic Economy

BOTANY AND GARDENING.

Abercrombie’s Practical Gardener -
and Main’s Gardener

Calleott’s ScriptureHerbal = -

Conversations on Botany - C

Drummond’s First Steps to Botany:
Henslow’s Botany -~
Hoare On the Grape Vine on Open Walls
9», Onthe Roots of Vines - -
Hooker’s British Flora = - -
Jackson’s Pictorial Flora - = -
Lindley’s Theory of Horticulture -
3 Orchard and Kitchen Garden
” Introduction to Boreny -
Flora Medica’ -
ae Synopsis of British Florace -
Loudon’s Hortus Britannicus - ° -
aa Hortus Lignosus Londinensis -
», Encyclopedia of Trees & Shrubs
os ” Gardening -
aS Plants - -
A. Suburban Gardener - =~
x Self-Instruction for Gardeners
(Mr.) Amateur Gardener - -
Repton’ s Landscape Gardening, etc. <

'eee6 6

op@aeaeeuet

London; Printed by M. Mason, Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row.

21
21

: a

2 CLASSIFIED INDEX 3
Pages Pages

Rivers’s Rose Amateur’s Guide - > 26 Maury’s Statesmen of America - 21
Roberts on the Vine - = 8 = = 26 Milner’s Church History - - - 21
Rogers’s Vegetable Cultivator - ° - 26 Moore’s History of Ireland - - 22 5:
Schleiden’s Scientific Botany - - - 26 Mosheim’s Ecclesiastical History = 22
Smith’s Introduction to Bowny: : - 2 Nicolas’s Chronology of History -

Smith’s English Flora =

Ranke’s History of the Reformation
»> Compendium of English Flora

27 Rome, History of - - -
Russell’s Bedford Correspondence -

CHRONOLOCY. Scott’s History of Scotland = - =

oe eo dade 8
ho
w

r i 3s a Sinnett’s Byways of History -
Nees cheno ee Soe ae Stebbing’s History of the Christian Church a
Riddle’s Ecclesiastical Chronology « - 25 ” see Sherpas ead 21
- - -= 99 ee md z
Tate’s Horatius Restitutus 29 Switzerland, Histeryof ae 28

COMMERCE AND MERCANTILE Be ee

. 29

AFFAIRS. aoOks s History of Paless On
t A ties - ae cG ‘urner’s History of England -
Gilbart On Banking Sy pres = = 49 Tytler’s Elements of General Hintary. 31
M‘Culloch’s Dictionary of Commerce = 2 Zumpt’s LatinGrammar - - 32
Reader’s Time Tables - - - - 26
Steel’s Shipmaster’s Assistant - + - 28 JUVENILE BOOKS.
Thomson’s Tables of Interest - - - 30 A .
Walford’s Customs’ Laws - - «81 my Herbert - =

Boy’s (The) Own Rok i here ee 7
"GEOGRAPHY AND ATLASES. sere oe a

Gower’s Scientific Phenomens - - 12

Butler’s Ancient and Modern Geography 7 Hawes’s Tales of the N. AmericanIndians 13

9, Atlas of Modern Geography mii, Howitt’s Boy’s Country Book - - - 15

Ao »5 AncientGeography - 8 Laneton Parsonage - - - 16

General Geography. - 8 Mackintosh’s Life of Sir T. More eee tS)
Cooley’s World Surveyed - - a Marcet’s Conversations—

De Strzelecki’s New South Wales - On the History of England

Forster’s Historical Geography of maebia, 11 On Chemistry : : 20
Hall’s Large General Atlas - - 13 On Natural Philosophy Sete - 20
M‘Culloch’s Geographical Dictionary - 20 On Political Economy - atid ety
M‘Leod’s Sacred Geography ~- = 20 On Vegetable Physiology - - = 20)
Murray’s Encyclopedia of Geograp hy =e On Land and Water - - - - 20
Ordnance Maps, and Dablicanons: of the On Language - - - - 20
Geological Society - - - - 23 Marryat’s Masterman Ready - i ee U
Parrot’s Ascent of Mount Ararat < - 8 a Priva! eer’s-Man - - - 20
on Settlersin Canada - - - 20
HISTORY AND CRITICISM. Mission; or, Scenesin Africa 20
Adair’s (Sir R.) Mission to Vienna - ie Pycroft’ s Course of English Reading - 24
ue Constantinople - - - - 5
Bell’s History of Russia - ee - 6 MEDICINE «
Blair’s Chron. and Historica Ta es ie Bull’s Hints to Mothers 9 Seas, Mere
Bloomfield’s Translation of Thucydides - 6 », Management of Chil ren “ 2 !
Edition of Thucydides - 6 Copland’s Dictionary of Medicine - - 9
Cooley’s Maritime and Inland Discovery 8 Elliotson’s Human Physiology 27h SL
Crowe’s History of France 9 Esdaile’s MesmerisminIndia - - ~+ 11 j
De Sismondi’s Fail of the Roman Empire 10 Holland’s Medical Notes - ae Nirah Sa
Italian Republics - 10 Lane’s Water Cure at Malvern ~ ae 16
Dunham’ s History of Spain and Portugal, 10 Pereira On Food and Diet = ee aa
39 History ee ae Ns ig Reece’s MedicalGuide - + - = 25 ;
r ry mpir Th Food = - - - = :
es Denmark, Sweden,and Norway 10 maheues ry! -
History of Poland - - =el0 j
Dunlop’ s History of Fiction - - 10 MISCELLANEOUS.
Eccleston’s English Antiquities . - 10 Adshead. on Prisons - = = .
Fergus’s United States of America = 11 Bray’s Philosophy of Necessity Se
Grant (Mrs. ) Memoir and Cotespongence, 12 Social Systems - - -
Grattan’s History of Netherlands - 12 Cartoons (The Prize) - - - -
Grimblot’s William III. and Louis XIV. 12 Clavers’s Forest Life - - - -
Guicciardini’s Hist. Maxims - - - 1 Cocks’s Bordeaux, its Wines, etc. - -
Haisted’s Life of Richard IIT. - - 13 Collegian’ sGuide - - - = -
Haydon’s Lectures on Paintingand Design 13 Colton’s Lacon - : -
Historical Pictures of the Middle Ages - 14 De Burtin On the Knowledge of Pictures
Horsley’ s (Bp.) Biblical Criticism - - 14 De Morgan On Probabilities -

Jeffrey’s (Lord) Contributions =
Keightley’ s Outlines of History
Laing’s Kings of Norway -
Lempriére’ s Classical Dictionary
Macaulay’s Essays -
Mackinnon’s History of Civilisation
Mackintosh’s History of England -

16 De Strzelecki’s New South Wales -

16 DresdenGallery - - &

Dunlop’s History of Fiction -

17 Good’s Book of Nature -

19 Gower’s Scientific Phenomena.

19 Graham’s English -

Grant’s feltens from the Mountains

Miscellaneous Works 19 Guest’s Mabinogion - - -

M‘Culloch’s Dictionary, Historical, pe Hand-Book of Taste Ca)
graphical, and Statistical - 20 Higgins’s Anacalypsis - =

Maunder’s Treasury of History - - 21 54 Altic Druids - -

ch Ps
oo¢oegs
=
a

oo bal

v6 ret
_
©

rid

ny Colonisation and Christianity - 15

” of Gardening
»» Of Agriculture - >

TO MESSRS. LONGMAN AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. | 3

Pages Pages

| Hobbes’s (Thos.) complete Works - 14 Copland’s, of Medicine - = )
Howitt’s Rural Life of England - - 4 Cresy’s, of Civil Engineering - - 9
», Visits to Remarkable Places - 14 Gwilt’s, of Architecture - = - 13

rT Student Life of Germany - 15 Johnson’s Farmer - « 2) - 16

» Ruraland Social Life of Germany 15 Loudon’s, of Trees and Shrubs - 18

Jaenisch on Chess Openings - - - 16
gree (aed) Contributions ai = 16
King’s (' ol.) Argentine Republic - - 16
Lane’s Life at the Water Cure - - 16
Loudon‘’s(Mrs.) Lady’s Country Companion 18
Macaulay’s Critical and Historical Essays 19
Mackintosh’s (Sir J.) Miscellaneous Works 19
Maitland’s Church in Catacombs” - - 2
Michelet’s Priests, Women, and Families 21
cy The People - - - = SE
Necker De Saussure’s on Education - 23
Perry On German University Education - 24
PeterPlymley’s Letters - - - ~ 24
Plunkett onthe Navy - - = «= 24
Pycroft’s English Course of Reading - 24
Roget’s Economic Chess-board - ea
Rowton’s Debater - - - - 26
Sandford’s Parochialia_ - - - - 26
Seaward’s Narrativeof hisShipwreck - 26
Southey’s Common-Place Book - - 28
aa The Doctor, etc. Vol. VI. - 28
Sydney Smith’s Works - - - - 28
Thomson on Food of Animals, etc. - - 29
Walker’s Chess Studies - - - - 31
Willoughby’s (Lady) Diary - ~ - - 32
Zumpt’s Latin Grammar - - - - 32

NATURAL HISTORY IN GENERAL.

Catlow’s Popular Conchology : 2a= 8
Doubleday’s Butterflies and Moths - 10
Drummond’s Letters to a Naturalist - 10
Gray’s Figures of Molluscous Animals - 12
», and Mitchell’s Ornithology - =e 12
“3 mS Accipitres - - 12
Kirby and Spence’s Entomology - - 16
Lee’s Taxidermy - . - - - 7
»» Elements of Natural History - minke
Newell’s Zoology of the English Poets - 23
Stephens’ British Coleoptera - - - 28
Swainson on the Study of NaturalHistory 29
29 Animals - - - - 29
ae Quadrupeds - : ° - 29
oy, Birds re ae - - 29
2 Animals in Menageries - 29
” Fish, Amphibians, & Reptiles 29
Ae Insects = - - 29
A Malacology - - - 29

Sh Habits and Instincts - - 2
” Taxidermy - - = aabte,
Turton’s Shellsofthe BritishIslands - 31
Waterton’s Essays on Natural History - 31
Westwood’s Classification of Insects - 32
Zoology of H.M.S.s’ Erebus and Terror 32

NOVELS AND WORKS OF FICTION.

Bray’s (Mrs.) Novels -
Dunlop’s History of Fiction
Fawn of Serturius - -
Marryat’s Masterman Read
»» Privateer’s-Man
Settlersin Canada - -
», Mission; or, Scenes in Africa
Pericles, A Tale of Athens - -
Southey’s, The Doctor, etc. Vol. VI.
Willis’s (N.P.) Dashes at Life -

CR Ph on he BL eee
ho
[—)

ONE VOLUME ENCYCLOPADIAS
AND DICTIONARIES.

Blaine’s, of Rural Sports - - - = 6
Brande’s, of Science, Literature, and Art 7

af of Plants - e = 18

>, of Rural Architecture - 18
M‘Culloch’s Geographical Dictionary 20
Dictionary of Commerce 20

2
Murray’s Encyclopedia of Geography
Ure’s Arts, Manufactures, and Mines
Webster’s Domestic Economy -

POETRY AND THE DRAMA.

tt o¢ sh 2 he oe TA Bos
~
too)

Aikin’s (Dr.) British Poets - - - 26
Birger’s Leonora, by Cameron: - ee A
Chalenor’s WalterGray - - - - 8
Collier’s Roxburghe Ballads - - - 8
Costello’s Persian Rose Garden - - 9
Goldsmith’s:Poems,--.. =.= _.=. <« 12
Gray’s Elegy, illuminated - - - 12
Gutch’s Robin Hode - - : - 13
Horace, by Tate - 8 - - 29
Howitt’s (Mary) Ballads > fe ap epee
L. E, L.’s Poetical Works - of ae
Linwood’s Anthologia Oxoniensis - + 18
Macaulay’s Lays of AncientRome - - 19
Mackay’s English Lakes - - - - 19
Montgomery’s Poetical Works - - 22
Moore’s Poetical Works - - - > 22
»5 Lalla Rookh - - - - 22

»» Irish Melodies - - - - 22
Moral of Flowers - - - - - 22
Poets’ Pleasaunce ~ - - - - 24
Pope’s Works - - - - - - 24
Reynard the Fox = - - ° wo 25
Shakspeare, by Bowdler - = -° 27
She ldon’s Minstrelsy - - - - 27
Sophocles, by Linwood - + + = 28
Southey’s Poetical Works = = - 28
wes British Poets - S . - 26
Spirit of the Woods = : - - 28
Thomson’s Seasons - - - 29

Watts’s (A. A.) Lyrics of the Heart

POLITICAL ECONOMY AND
STATISTICS,

Gilbart on Banking - - - os = 12

M‘Culloch’s Geographical, Statistical, and
Historical Dictionary : - - 20

M'‘Culloch’s Dictionary of Commerce - 20

55 Literature of Polit. Economy 19
>», On Taxation and Funding - 19
»5 Statistics of the British Empire 19
Marcet’s Conversations on Polit. Economy 20
Registrar-General’s Report - - - 25
Symonds’ Merchant Seamen’s Law -
Thornton on Over-population - - -
Tooke’s History of Prices - = ~-

RELIGIOUS AND MORAL
WORKS, ETC.

Amy Herbert, edited by Rev. W. Sewell
Barrett’s Old Testament Criticisms - -
Bloomfield’s Greek Testament - -
a Collegeand Schoolditto -
79 Lexicon to Greek Testament
Burder’s Oriental Customs : > -
Burns’s Christian Philosophy -
», Christian Fragments -
Callcott’s Scripture Herbal -
Cooper's Sermons -— - -
Dale’s Domestic Liturgy -
Dibdin’s Sunday Library - -

Doddridge’s Family Expositor

SOOHVCONANNARMAA

CLASSIFIED INDEX.

Ee eS eS ee a

Pages
Englishman’s Hebrew Concordance = Il
as Greek Concordance = - ll
Etheridge’s Syrian Churches specced
Fitzroy’s (Lady) Scripture Conversations 11
Forster’s Historical Geography of Arabia 11
” Life of Bishop Jebb - - - jl
From OxfordtoRome - =- = = Ili
Gertrude, edited by the Rev. W. Sewell - 11
Hook’s (Dr.) Lectures on Passion Week 14
Horne’s Introduction to the Scriptures - . 14
>») Compendium ofditto - - 14
Horsley’s (Bp.) Biblical Criticism - - 14
39 Psalms = - = C = 414
Jebb’s Correspondence with Knox - - 15
>> Translation of the Psalms - - 15
Kip’s Christmasin Rome - = 27 A6
Knox’s (Alexander) Remains - = - 16
Laing’s Notes on the German Schism - 16
Laneton Parsonage - - - ~ - 16
Letters to my Unknown Friends = = 17
Maitland’s Church in the Catacombs - 20
Margaret Percival - rent ele All
Michelet’s Priests, Women, and Families 2]
A and Quinet’s Jesuits - = PN
Milner’s Church History - - - gna
Moore on the Power of the Soul = - 22
>», onthe Use of the Body - - 22
Mosheim’s Ecclesiastical History - = 22
My Youthful Companions - - - 22
Parables - - - - - - - 23
Parkes’s Domestic Duties : - - 23
Pearson’s Prayers for Families = - 23
Peter Plymley’s Letters - = a oe
Pitman’s-Sermons on the Psalms = - 24
Quinet’s Christianity - - - = 25
Riddle’s Letters from a Godfather - - 25
Sandford On Female Improvement - - 26
os On Woman - - - a Sy
7 ’s Parochialia - - - - 96
Sermon onthe Mount (The) - - = 97
Shepherd’s Horz Apostolic - = 27
Smith’s Female Disciple - - - - 27
” (G.) PerilousTimes - - - 27
Tere Religion of Ancient Britain 27
Southey’s Life of Wesley - - = 28
Stebbing’s Church History - - - 28
Steepleton - - s < - - 28
Sydney Smith’s Sermons - eo 2 O80
Tate’s History of St. Paul - - = 29
Tayler’s(Rey.C.B.) Margaret; or, the Pearl 29
os 9 Sermons - - 29
. » DoraMelder - aes)
os % Lady Mary - - 29
Taylor’s (Jeremy) Works - - - 29
Tomline’s Introduction to the Bible - 380
Trevor; or the New St, Francis - - 30
Trollope’s Analecta Theologica - = 30
Turner’s Sacred History S2a0s =. ent aO
Wardlaw On Socinian Controversy - 81
Weil’s Bible, Koran, and Talmud - - 32
Wilberforce’s View of Christianity - 82
Wilkinson’s Catechisms of Church History 32
Willoughby’s (Lady) Diary - . - 32
Woodward’s Essays, Sermons, etc. - 32
RURAL SPORTS.
Blaine’s Dictionary of Sports - - - 6
Ephemera on Angling - - - - il
Hansard’sFishingin Wales’ - - - 13
Hawker’s Instructions to Sportsmen - 13

Loudon’s (Mrs.) Lady’s Country Companion
Stable Talk and Table Talk - -

18
28

THE SCIENCES IN GENERAL,
AND MATHEMATICS.

Pages
Bakewell’s Introduction to Geology dee 7]
Balmain’s Lessonson Chemistry - <= 9
Brande’s Dictionary of Science, etc. = 7
Brewster’s Optics - - - = = 7
Conversations on Mineralogy - = 8
Dela Beche on theGeology of Cornwall,etc. 9
Donoyan’s Chemistry - - - = 10
Farey onthe SteamEngine - - = Il
Fosbroke on the Arts of the Ancients - 11
Gower’s Scientific Phenomena ae a) 7
Greener on the Gun oS ee Sore eaea,
Herschel’s Natural Philosophy - - 13
a Astronomy - - - - 13
Holland’s Manufactures in Metal - - 14
Humboldt’s Cosmos <5 ee ep
Hunt’s Researches on Light - = age he
Kater and Lardner’s Mechanics - - 16
La Place’s System ofthe World = - 16
Lardner’s Cabinet Cyclopedia - - 16
At Hydrostatics and Pneumatics - 17
” and Walker’s Electricity -~ V7
ay Arithmetic - - = - 16
“F Geometry * - - = WZ
Ee Treatiseon Heat - - = 7
Lerebours On Photography - - - V7
Marcet’s Conversations onthe Sciences 20
Memoirs of the Geological Survey - - 2)
Moseley’s Practical Mechanics - = 22
- Engineering and Architecture 22
Nesbit’s Mensuration - - - - 23
Owen’s Lectures On Comparative Anatomy 23
Pearson’s Practical Astronomy - - 23
Peschel’s Physics - - - - - 24
Phillips’s PaleozoicF ossilsof Cornwall, etc. 24
», GuidetoGeology - - - 24
»» . Treatise on Geology - - - 24
Poisson’s Mechanics - - - - 24
Portlock’s Geology of Londonderry = 24
Powell’s Natural Philosophy - “ mien
Quarterly Journal of the Gocleiad Society 24
Ritchie (Robert) on Railways - = 2
Topham’s Agricultural Chemistry - - 30
Whitley’s Agricultural Geology - - 32
TRAVELS,
Allan’s Mediterranean - - - -
Cooley’s World Surveyed - - -
Costello’s (Miss) North Wales - “
De Custine’s Russia - - - -
De Strzelecki’s New South Wales - aad
Erman’s Travels through Siberia - -
Harris’s Highlands of Athiopia - - 13
King’s (Col.) Argentine Republic - - 16
Kip’s Holydaysin Rome —. - - - 16
Laing’s Tourin Sweden - - - 16
Mackay’s English Lakes = = - 19
Montauban’s Wanderings - - = 22
Parrot’s Ascent of Mount Ararat - - §8
Paton’s (A.A.) Servia - - fia ea Oe
oe Modern Syrians - - 23
Pedestrian Reminiscences = = dS}
Seaward’s Narrative of hisShipwreck - 26
Tischendorf’s Travels in Russia « = 80
Von Orlich’s Travels in India’ - - 31
VETERINARY MEDICINE
Miles On the Horse’s Foot - - - 21
Stable Talk and Table Talk - - «= 98
Thomson on Fattening Cattle - = 29
Winter Onthe Horse - - = =" 22

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14 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS

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HOOK (DR. W. F.)—THE LAST DAYS OF OUR LORD’S MINISTRY ;
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16 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS

LORD JEFFREY.— CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE EDINBURGH REVIEW.

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JOHNSON.—THE FARMER’S ENCYCLOPADIA,
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KIRBY AND SPENCE.—AN INTRODUCTION TO ENTOMOLOCY;
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KNOX (ALEXANDER). — REMAINS OF ALEXANDER KNOX, ESQ.

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LAING.—NOTES ON THE SCHISM FROM THE CHURCH OF ROME,
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LAPLACE (THE MARQUIS DE).—THE SYSTEM OF THE WORLD.

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LARDNER.—A TREATISE ON GEOMETRY,
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LARDNER.—A TREATISE ON HEAT.
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LARDNER.—A TREATISE ON HYDROSTATICS AND PNEUMATICS.
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LARDNER AND WALKER.—A MANUAL ON ELECTRICITY, MAC-
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LEMPRIERE.—-A CLASSICAL DICTIONARY 5
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LETTERS TO MY UNKNOWN FRIENDS.
By a Lady. Foolscap 8vo. 68. 6d. cloth.

“ The author is no commonplace retuiler of cut and dried marims, but a woman of strong
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LINDLEY.—INTRODUCTION TO BOTANY.
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LINDLEY.—FLORA MEDICA 5
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LINDLEY.—A SYNOPSIS OF THE BRITISH FLORA,
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LINDLEY.—THE THEORY OF HORTICULTURE 5
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LINDLEY.—CUIDE TO THE ORCHARD AND KITCHEN CARDEN;
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18 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS

LINWOOD (W.)—-ANTHOLOCIA OXONIENSIS 5 ;
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LOUDON (MRS.)—THE AMATEUR CARDENER’S CALENDAR;
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author of ‘The Lady’s Country Companion,” “‘ Gardening for Ladies,’ etc. Feap. 8vo.-
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LOUDON (MRS.)—THE LADY’S COUNTRY COMPANION;
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LOUDON (J. C.)—SELF INSTRUCTION 5 :
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LOUDON.—AN ENCYCLOPADIA OF TREES AND SHRUBS 5

Being the ** Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum”’ abridged: containing the Hardy Trees
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The Original Work; a New Edition, in 8 vols. 8vo. with above 400 8yo. Plates of Trees, and
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LOUDON.—AN ENCYCLOPADIA OF GARDENING 5

Presenting in one systematic view, the History and Present State of Gardening in all Coun-
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LOUDON.—AN ENCYCLOPADIA OF AGRICULTURE 5

Comprising the Theory and Practice of the Valuation, Transfer, Laying-out, Improvement,
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LOUDON.—AN ENCYCLOPADIA OF PLANTS;
Including all the Plants which are now found in, or have been introduced into, Great Britain;
giving their Natural History, accompanied by such Descriptions, Engraved Figures, and
Elementary Details, as may enable a beginner, who is a mere English reader, to discover the
name of every Plant which he may find in flower, and acquire all the information respeeting
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*,* The last Supplement, separately, 8vo. 158. cloth.

LOUDON.— AN ENCYCLOPADIA OF COTTACE, FARM, AND VILLA
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LOUDON.—HORTUS BRITANNICUS :
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LOUDON.—THE SUBURBAN CARDENER AND VILLA COMPANION:
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perch to fifty acres and upwards in extent; intended for the instruction of those who know |} —
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LOUDON.—HORTUS. LIGNOSUS. LONDINENSIS 5
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LOW.—ON LANDED PROPERTY, AND THE ECONOMY OF ESTATES;
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