SI ereagres menses, = eis eirentes sat aba es sietsoatie : -- = SUAEIth te dean segnssbeeoaseronmedinntl Serb meee Sy seeeees am saecaa find : ee picaweress Db) go" tett cones simcereiny toferemagzereteertosesetee erage reste tary oeeat ee toyeseraeceege = . ay salah mony eserer SEEMEcLtLoELL Hiei 4 hil j 4 i a marae ee one Sree eS — ae a if t re") eg IO OTC Ay eyo Keb = es > ZA IN /ee USS ale os ere Rian (reat sheooete tise WESP COL n\ ag RS sesel MODERN COOKERY, IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. SALM O'N S MW) Y TURBOT. isl MIDDLE . OF MOD ERN C00 KERY, - ALL ws BRANCHRS Py i en al ie “REDUCED TO A SYSTEM OF EASY PRACTICE, FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE FAMILIES. IN A SERIES OF RECEIPTS, WHICH HAVE BEEN STRICTLY TESTED, AND ARE GIVEN WITH THE MOST MINUTE EXACTNESS. af BY ELIZA ACTON. ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL AND NUMEROUS WOODCUTS. SIXTH EDITION, TO WHICH ARE ADDED, DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN AND LONGMANS, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1847. ; Londou: (= 4 erintas by Brews and MURRAY, = 4 =Ola le f ye DEDICATED TO THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS OF ENGLAND. PREFACE, TxE proper and wholesome preparation of our daily food, though it may hold in the estimation of the world but a very humble place among the useful arts of life, can scarcely be considered an altogether unimportant one, involving so entirely, as it does, both health and comfort. England is, beyond most other countries, rich in the varied and abundant produce of its soil, or of tts commerce, which in turn supply to it all that the necessities or the luxury of its people can demand; yet, until within very recent years, its cookery has remained far inferior to that of nations much less advanced in civilization; and foreigners have been called in to furnish to the tables of our aristocracy, and of the wealthier orders of the community, those refinements of the art which were not to be obtained from native talent. Our improvement was for a long time opposed by our own strong and stubborn prejudices against innovation in general, and against the innovations of strangers in particular ; but these, of late, have fast given way before the more rational and liberal spirit of the times: happily for ourselves, we have ceased to be too bigoted, or too proud to profit by the superior information and experience of others upon any subject of utility. The pre- sent age is one of rapid and universally progressing knowledge; Vili PREFACE. and nothing which is really calculated to advance either the great or the small interests of society is now regarded as too homely or too insignificant for notice. The details of domestic economy, in particular, are no longer sneered at as beneath the attention of the educated and accomplished ; and the truly refined, intelligent, and high-minded women of England have ceased, in these days of comparative good sense, to consider their acquaintance with such details as inconsistent with their dignity, or injurious to their attractions:—and who can direct their households with the same taste, the same judgment, and the same watchful care for the comfort of others as themselves? — ‘Who, indeed, can guard all the interests of home as they can? And surely a woman does not preside less pleasingly in her own immediate circle, nor do the honours of her table, or of her drawing-room, with less grace and propriety for having given (often from pursuits much more congenial to her) some portion of the day to the examination and control of her do- mestic affairs; it is rare, too, we should suppose, for a husband to be otherwise than grateful to his wife for the exertion of a surveillance which, if steadily and judiciously maintained, will affect his expenditure beyond all that a careless calculator would imagine possible. This, at a period when the struggle for income is so general, and the means of half the families holding a certain rank in the world are so insufficient for the support of their position, is a-consideration of very deep im- portance. Few things are more certain to involve persons of narrow fortune in painful difficulties than the ruinous, because constant (though not always perceptible), extravagance which so often exists in every department of a house of which the sole regula- tion is left to servants, who, more than any other class of people in the world, would appear to be ignorant of the true value of PREFACE. IX. money, and of the means of economizing it. We speak, of course, of the generality. Some amongst them there are, we know, equally trustworthy and conscientious, who protect their employers’ property from abuse more scrupulously even than if it Were their own; but the greater number are reckless enough in their wasteful profusion when uncontrolled by the eye of a superior: an inexperienced housekeeper cannot be too soon aware of this. It sometimes happens, however, that the young mistress of a family has had no opportunity before her mar- riage of acquiring the knowledge which would enable her to conduct her household concerns as she could desire; and that, with a high sense of her duties, and an earnest wish to fulfil them to the utmost, she is prevented by her entire ignorance of domestic affairs from accomplishing her object. In sucha case, unless she should chance to possess that rare treasure of com- mon English life, a superior cook,* the economy of her table will not be amongst the lightest of her difficulties; and she may be placed, perhaps, by circumstances at a distance from every friend who could counsel or assist her. Thrown thus entirely upon her own resources, she will naturally and gladly avail herself of the aid to be derived from such books as can really afford to her the information she requires.. Many ad- mirably calculated to do this, in part, are already in possession of the public; but amongst the large number of works on cookery, which we have carefully perused, we have never yet met with one which appeared to us either quite intended for, or * It can scarcely be expected that good cooks should abound amongst us, if we consider how very few receive any training to fit them for their business. Every eraft has its apprentices; but servants are generally left to scramble together as they can, from any source which accident may open to them, a knowledge of their respective duties. We have often thought, that schools in which these duties should be taught them thoroughly, would be of far greater benefit to them than is the half-knowledge of comparative un-useful matters so frequently be- stowed on them by charitable educationists. Ce PREFACE, entirely suited to the need of the totally inexperienced ; none, in fact, which contained the first rudiments of the art, with direc- tions so practical, clear, and simple, as to be at once understood, and easily followed, by those who had no previous knowledge of the subject. This deficiency, we have endeavoured in the present volume to supply, by such thoroughly explicit and minute instructions as may, we trust, be readily comprehended. and carried out by any class of learners; our receipts, moreover, with a few trifling exceptions which are scrupulously specified, are confined to such as may be perfectly depended on, from having been proved beneath our own roof and under our own personal inspection. We have trusted nothing to others; but having desired sincerely to render the work one of genuine use- fulness, we have spared neither cost nor labour to make it so, ds the very plan on which it has been written must of itself, we think, evidently prove. It contains some novel features, calculated, we hope, not only to facilitate the labours of the kitchen, but to be of service likewise to those by whom they are directed. The principal of these is the summary appended to the receipts, of the different ingredients which they contain, with the exact proportion of each, and the precise time required to dress the whole. This shows at a glance what articles have to be prepared before hand, and the hour at which they must be ready ; while it affords great facility as well, for an estimate of the expense attending them. ~The additional space occupied by this closeness of detail has necessarily prevented the admis- sion of so great a variety of receipts as the book might otherwise have comprised; but a limited number, thus completely ex- plained, may perhaps be more acceptable to the reader than a larger mass of materials vaguely given. Our directions for boning poultry, game, &c., are also, we may venture to say, entirely new, no author that is known to PREFACE. ».@ us having hitherto afforded the slightest information on the subject; but while we have done our utmost to simplify and to render intelligible this, and several other processes not generally well understood by ordinary cooks, our first and best attention has been. bestowed on those articles of food of which the con- sumption is the most general, and which are therefore of the greatest consequence; and on what are usually termed plain English dishes. With these we have intermingled many foreign ones which we know to be excellent of their kind, and which now so far belong to our national cookery, as to be met with commonly at all refined modern tables. But we find that we have, in every way, so far exceeded the limits assigned to us for our volume, that we feel compelled to take here our somewhat abrupt leave of the reader; who will, no doubt, discover easily, without our assistance, both any merit and any deficiency which may exist in the work. . ‘a chee Fe ea rt ae eae NOTICE TO THIRD EDITION. oo Ix preparing a third edition of the Moprrn Cooxsry for the press, within so very short a time of its first publication, the authoress has endeavoured to show her sense of the gratify- _ ing reception which has been given to the work, by improving it to the utmost of her power. To this end, she has gladly availed herself of the space afforded by a slight variation in the size of the type, to add a large number of new and ex- cellent receipts, which, like all that the volume originally contained, have been tested with exceeding care. She has also arranged the dishes appropriate to the first and second course under the French names of entrées and entremets, by which they are now commonly distinguished ; and in explana- tion of these, and some few other foreign terms, which may not be perfectly familiar to all her readers, a short vocabulary has been annexed to the book. Every exertion has, in fact been made, which the extremely short period that could be commanded for the purpose would allow, both to correct the work throughout, and to augment as much as possible its value, by increasing its usefulness. It must, however, be ob- served, that no effort on the part of the authoress can ensure NOTICE TO THIRD EDITION. a satisfactory result of her labours, unless the directions, which have cost her so much toil, and which, to prevent the chance of failure, have, in many instances, been repeated almost to tediousness, be implicitly followed by the learner: she cannot answer for their success if they be not strictly adhered to, their very exactness rendering any deviation from them always likely to endanger it. Attention to this point is the more strongly urged, because the object of the writer, in taking the infinite pains of having each separate receipt of a series of upwards of eleven hundred worked through before it was inserted in the volume, that she might assure herself of its entire correct- ness and real practical utility, and safely guarantee them to others, must be at once defeated if her instructions be departed from. The book has received, since it was issued to the public, numberless flattering and kindly testimonies of approval, both through the medium of the press, and through various private channels ; but none which have afforded the authoress more heart-felt pleasure—though all have given her much—than the cordial assurances of many young housekeepers that it has realized to them all that it professes, and proved a most valuable assistant in their households. May it continue so to fulfil her intention and her wishes. July, 1845. NOTICE TO FIFTH EDITION. A very agreeable opportunity again presents itself to the writer of the following pages of addressing a few words to her readers, and she takes advantage of it with-peculiar pleasure, both to make some explanations which appear almost due to the earlier friends of the work, and to offer some. observations upon one or two points on which she has hitherto but slightly touched. The rapidity with which the several editions of the Modern Cookery have succeeded each other up to the present moment, and the favour with which the book has continued to be received, might seem to render the new efforts which have just been made for its improvement altogether superfluous; but in arranging it, in the first instance, for publication, the Authoress confined its contents strictly to the one subject on which it was professedly written, and left entirely unnoticed the many merely relative matters which are usually annexed to domestic treatises, upon it. Amongst these were Directions for Carving, the omission of which, as she learned but recently, was regretted by some of the purchasers ; and it was suggested that their insertion would considerably enhance the utility of the work, especially NOTICE TO FIFTH EDITION. to young housekeepers. She has therefore now supplied them, in the best manner that time and circumstances would permit; and they are accompanied by a series of very superior illustra- _ tive engravings on steel, which do credit, she thinks, alike to the artist whose name is attached to them, and to the spirit and good taste of the publishers by whom they were decided on. It is improbable that, after these, any further additions will be made to the work, which has already been extended very far beyond its original limits. Her own exertions for it being thus apparently terminated, the Authoress hopefully commits its future fortunes to the public, whose .reception of it has been marked by a degree of urbanity of which, through all her life, she will remain deeply sensible. Her task has been a laborious and a trying one; so much so, that she has been tempted often entirely to relinquish it; yet, in parting now from her kind readers, she sees it finally accomplished almost with regret. Norr.—The Authoress has to acknowledge here her great obligation to M. Soyer of the Reform Club, who, to facilitate the progress of the plates, was so good as to direct the arrange- ment of many of the subjects, and allow drawings of them to be made under his own most able surveillance. Circumstances of the moment prevent the Authoress from entering, for the present, upon the further subjects on which she had proposed to offer some remarks; she will therefore hope to retract her adieu, and to make them hereafter an occa- sion of again addressing herself to her readers. APRIL, 1846. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. SOUPS. Introductory Remarks . . page 1 , Potato Soup . «6 «page 20 A few directions to the Cook - 2] Apple Soup . : - . . ib. To thicken Soups - 3 | Parsnep Soup 3 . - 21 To fry Bread to serve with Soups. 4 | Another Parsnep Soup . s ¢ . ib. Sippets @ la Reine . - 5 | Westerfield White Soup e «AD, To make Nouilles, an excellent A richer White Soup . ° - 22 substitute for Vermicelli - ib. | Mock Turtle Soup : C » 23 Vegetable Vermicelli for Soups . ib. Bouillon, or good Beef Broth. (French receipt.) . é 6 Clear, Pale, Gravy Soup, or Stock 8 Another receipt¢for Gravy Soup . 9 Cheap, Clear, Gfavy Soup . « /9 Vermicelli Soup. (Potage au Vermicelle.) .« - A . Semoulina Soup. (Suup ¢ la ' Semoute.) é wal Maccaroni Soup . spler Potage aux Nouilles (or Taillerine Soup). . ° . 5 ; Sago Soup . ° : - Tapioca Soup. °. ° . =, 1D3 Rice Soup . . F, ‘ White Rice Soup . . F Rice-Flour Soup '. . . Stock for White Soups . . - ib. Mutton-Stock for Soups ° The Lord Mayor’s Soup . . - 15 The Lord Mayor’s Soup. (Au- thor’s receipt.) ah ease a1Dy Cocoa-nut Soup . . . oie! Chestnut Soup ; ahi Jerusalem Artichoke, or Pales- tine Soup ‘ . . . 18 Common Carrot Soup. “ Haye a finer Carrot Soup . 4 . 19 Common Turnip Soup . : iD, A quickly made Turnip Soup - 20 Old-fashioned Mock. Turtle . . 26 Good Calf’s-head Soup (not ex- ; pensive) ‘ . ‘ = 27 Potage @ la Reine. » 29. White Oyster Soup (or Oyster ©, Soup @ la Reine) . ~ - 30 Rabbit Soup, @ la Reine : wads Brown Rabbit Soup ; . . ol Superlative Hare Soup - » ib, A less expensive Hare Soup. « 32 Pheasant Soups. q . ib. Another Pheasant Soup 2 . 34 Partridge Soup. ° ° + 1b. Mullagatawny Soup . - ib. To boil Rice for Mullagatawny Soup, or Curries ‘ Another receipt for boiling Rice ° Vegetable Mullagatawny a =D. Cucumber Soup . : An excellent Green Peas Soup ‘ Green Peas Soup without meat : ‘ - ib. A cheap Green Peas Soup : Rich Peas Soup . . : Common Peas Soup . ° Peas Soup without meat ° Ox-tail Soup . . : A cheap and good Stew. Soup... _ ib. Soup in haste ° ’ : - 44 Veal or Mutton Broth . . e ib. Milk Soup with Vermicelli . 2 45 XIV CONTENT . .CHAPTER IL FISH. - 45 | To boil Haddocks . 4 . To choose Fish . » : - 47 | Baked Haddocks . C ° . 66 To clean Fish : A To keep Fish ; To sweeten tainted Fish Brine for boiling Fish . To render boiled Fish firm To keep Fish hot for table To boil a Turbot . . Turbot @ la Créme A Turbot au Béchamelt . ° - 48 | To fry Haddocks . = 5 ° - ib. | To dress Finnan Haddocks . : . 49 | Fresh Herrings (Farleigh receipt) ib. ° . ib. | To boil Plaice or Flounders . - 67 . - ib. | To fry Plaice or Flounders . ay 10 ‘ . ib. | To roast, bake, or broil Red Mullet ib. 4 - 51 ST Grey Mullet . . . 68 . - ib. ry Smelts . « e aia To boil a John Dory - ib. | Baked Smelts ° . ib. To boila Brill . - ib. | To dress White Bait (Greenwich | Salmon @ la Genevoise - 52 receipt) . . 69 Crimped Salmon . . To boil Salmon =. Salmon @ la St Marcel - ib. | Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt) ib. - ib. | Shad, Touraine fashion . ‘ - 799 . 53 Stewed Trout (good common re- To boil Cod Fish . : wD; ceipt) “ . : : abs Slices of Cod Fish fried - 54 | To boil Pike’. ° : : uae Stewed Cod Fish . s - ib. | To bake Pike - 72 Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 55 | To bake Pike (superior receipt) 210s To boil Salt Fish . : . ib. | To boil Perch ; : Pas Salt Fish @ la Maitre @ Hotel - 56 | To fry Perch or Tench . Y > 1h. To boil Cods’ Sounds . .ib.| Tofry Eels . F - ib. To fry Cods’ Sounds in patter . ib. | Boiled Eels (German receipt) . 74 Tofry Soles . ° c - 57 | Eels (Cornish receipt) . 5 . ib. To boil Soles . : ; ; . 58 | To boil Lobsters « : . 75 Fillets of Soles 3 . ib. | Lobster fricasseed, or aw Béchamel ib. Baked Soles (or Soles au Plat) : 59 | Buttered Crab or Lobster : . ib. Sales stewed in cream . : . ib. | To boil Cray-fish . : > - 76 To fry Whitings . ° . - 60 | To boil Prawns . en - ib. Fillets of Whitings F . . ib. | To boil: Shrimps. Porig | boil Whitings (French re- Croute-aux-Crevettes, or Shrimp- Sy ceipt) «. . 61 Toast . ; kb . Baked Whitings @ la FPrangaise . ib. | Shrimp-Toast @ la "Reine 2 ib; Te boil Mackerel : ‘ ; . 62 | Oysters . A : A 5 - 78 To bake Mackerel : : . ib. | To stew Oysters. < ; > ID. Fried Mackerel (common French To scallop Oysters . A - 9 receipt) . : . 63 | Scallopped Oysters @ la Reine . 80 . Boiled fillets of Mackerel . . ib. | Oyster Sausages (Entrée) . - ib. Fillets bf Mackerel 4 $ - ib. | To fry Oysters . eit * Mackerel broiled whole : . 64 | Red Herrings a ta Dauphin. F . 81 Mackerel stewed in Wine (Entrée)ib. Red Herrings (common English Fillets of Mackerel stewed in Wine » mode) : ED; (excellent) (Zinivéc) . hiastionsins fried in batter yeas CHAPTER IIL GRAVIES. Introductory remarks . . . 82 | Rich deep-coloured. Veal Gravy . 86 To heighten the colour and flavour Good Beef or Veal Gravy (English of Gravies i . 83 receipt) . - ib. Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies . 84 | A rich English brown Gravy ek Rich pale Veal Gravy, or Consom- Gravy for Venison : ° - ib. mée Ds Mild Eschalot Sauce e e ib. XVi A fine Sauce, or Purée of Vege- table Marrow. . - 123 Excellent Turnip, or Artichoke Sauce, for boiled Meat. Ds Olive sauce . 5 ° 5 - 124 Celery Sauce 5 e og 10; White Chestnut Sauce . . . . 125 Brown Chestnut Sauce 5 «10s Sweet Pudding Sauce . ib. Punch Sauce for Sweet Puddings 126 Common Pudding Sauce . ids A delicious German Pudding Sauce ib. Parsley - green, for colouring Sauces . $ . * : Tocrisp Parsley . . . «© 127 ib. CONTENTS. Fried Parsley ° «127 Anchovy Butter (exellent). - ib. Tartar Mustard . - 128 Another Tartar Mustard F aes Mild Mustard ' a - » 129 Mustard, the common way . + ib. French Batter for frying Vege- tables, and for Apple, Peach, or Orange Fritters. 4 - ib. To prepare Bread for frying Fish ib. Browned Flour for thickening CHAPTER V. STORE SAUCES. Observations . . . . - 181) Chetney Sauce . . ° - 182 Mushroom Catsup : ib. Mushroom Catsup (another re- * ceipt) . - 133 _ Double Mushroom Catsup ose hkOd Compound, or Cook’s Catsup . ib. Walnut Catsup . sib. Another good receipt for Walnut ‘jaan Catsup . : . . 135 Lemon Pickle, or Catsup > 5) ahs Pontac Catsup for Fish 6 - 136 Bottled Tomatas, or, Tomata Cat- sup . 2 se e e ib. Epicurean Sauce . ° ° Ag liy Tarragon Vinegar ; ° 7 dor e e e ib. Green Mint Vinegar General remarks on Forcemeats 142 Good common Forcemeat for Veal, Turkeys, &c., No.1 . 148 Another good common Forcemeat, No. 2 - ib. Superior Suet Forcemeat, No. af 144 Common Suet Forcemeat, No.4. ib. Oyster Forcemeat, No.5 . - 145 Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No.6 . ib. Mushroom Forcemeat, No.7 . ib. Forcemeat for Hare, No. 8. - 146 Onion and Sage stuffing for Geese, Ducks, &c., No. 9 4 «Ds Cook’s Forcemeat for Geese or Ducks, No. 10ers Soups and Gravies . - 130 Fried Bread-Crumbs . . 7 2D: Bread for Garnishing Swipe Rajah’s Sauce . +2 te sail | Cucumber Vinegar ». . . 137 | Celery Vinegar . qemiud | Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar. 5 - 138 | Eschalot Wine . . oy its Horse-radish Vinegar . . om alte Cayenne Vinegar . - 139 Lemon Brandy for “flavouring Sweet Dishes. 6 Agcy, Another Store Flavouring for Puddings or Cakes -. . ibe Dried Mushrooms A : 2 10s Mushroom Powder . . - 140 Potato Flour (Fecule de Pommes de Terre) . . to aBs To make Flour of Rice. . . 141 Powder of Savoury Herbs . Api The Doctor’s Zest ° - A tie CHAPTER VI. FORCEMEATS. Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle Soups, No. 11~° . ; - 147 Egg Balls, No. 12 . . - 148 Brain Cakes, No. 13 . : sad. Another receipt for Brain Cakes, No. 14 . ' os te Chestnut Forcemeat, N 0. 15 . 149 An excellent French Forcemeat, No. 16. 2 ep Ti French Forcemeat, called “ Que- nelles, No. 17 " 150 Forcemeat for raised and ‘other ei cold Pies, No.18. . - 15) Panada, No.19 2. 4 sw ibs ae CONTENTS. ee CHAPTER VIL BOILING, ROASTING, ETC. To boil Meat e e ‘ . 158) Baking. ° . Ps ° « 163 Poélée . < . e e » 154 Braising . ° e ° . 165 A Blane ee e « ib. | Larding : . ° . . 166 Roasting . Onesie . 155 | Boning . ° “ . 167 Steaming . «6 co e ~ 157| To blanch Meat or Vegetables . ib. Stewing F . e ¢ - 158] Glazing. “ : ° Y ae lis Broiling e Bite e - 160 | Toasting . «Abs ERVIN) oe tee Oe Sosy 1G Browning with Salamander. . 169 5 1 CHAPTER VIIL BEEF. To choose Beef . . : - 170 To roast Sirloin or Ribs of Beef. ib. Roast Rump of Beef . 5 . 171 To roast part of a Round of Beef ib. To roast a Fillet of Beef . . 172 Roast Beef Steak. +. é aeliet sF To broil Beef Steaks . A ib. Beef Steaks @ la sia eal (En- trée . - 174 Beef Steaks @ la Francaise (another receipt) (Entrée) . Stewed Beef Steak (Entrée) . ib, Fried Beef Steaks . : . 175 Beef Steak stewed in its own Gravy (good and wholesome) . 7 aib, Beef or Mutton Cake (very good) (Entrée) Bist ee to A German Stew . e« - Welsh Stew . : oH « « 11D. A good English Stew . Mee To stew Shin of Beef . ide French Beef 4 la Mode (common receipt) . é Pee Wi) Stewed Sirloin of Beef. . ‘ . 179 To stew a Rump of Beef . AltA Beef Palates (Entrée) A - 180 Beef Palates (Neapolitan mode) . 181 Stewed Ox-tails (Entrée) ib. Broiled Ox-tail (good) (Entrée) ib. To salt and pickle Beef in various , ys. ° anes - To salt and boil a Round of Bee . é : ~ Awe oe Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, Hams, and Tongues . . 183 Another Pickle for Tongues ‘Beef, and Hams . ; de Dutch, . Hung Beef . ° . 184 Collared Beef . ° - 184 Collared Beef (another receipt) - 185 A common receipt for Salting Beek “=. ib. Spiced Round of Beef (very highly flavoured) . ib. Spiced Beef (good and whole- some) . A miniature Round of Beef. . 187 Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt) . ib. Beef Roll (or Canellon de Hoey ) (Enirée) 5 . 188 Minced Collops aw Naturel. (En- EP E66): shoo Ye . 189 Savoury minced Collops (Entrée) ib. A richer variety of minced Col- lops (Entrée) : « tee Scotch minced Collops : . 190 Beef Tongues c ib. Beef Tongues (a Suffolk receipt) ib. To dress Beef Tongues | 191 Bordyke receipt for ee tips a Tongue . ; Fy ° To roast a Beef Heart . ; ° Beef Kidney : < Beef Kidney (a plainer way) + db, An excellent hash of cold Beef or Mutton . 5 193 A common hash of cold Beef or Muiton . ' ¢ « 3D. Breslaw of Beef (good) A Apis Norman Hash : . 194 French receipt for hashed Bouilli ib. Baked minced Beef . 5 - 195 Saunders’ . . : 2 228 To roast a Shoulder of Mutton . 228 Spiced Shoulder of Mutton Apis e Forced Shoulder of Mutton - 229 Mutton Cutlets stewed in their own gravy (good) ib. To broil Mutton Cuilets (Entrée) 230 China Chilo (Entrée) . ° ib. A good Family Stew of Mutton . 231 An Irish Stew. + dee) ib. Cutlets of cold Mutton” - 232 Mutton Kidneys @ la Francaise (Entrée) ‘ A > 1iDe Broiled Mutton Kidneys : - 233 Oxiona Bdooipt fon eiatoas saeye (breakfast dish, or Entiée) . To roast a Quarter ‘of Lamb fe Roast Saddle of Lamb =. Sly Roast Loin of Lamb , - . 284 ; Stewed Leg of Lamb, with white sauce (Entrée) . ° : Loin of Lamb stewed in butter (Eatr ée) e re 2 CONTENTS. xix Lamb or Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise sauce (Entrée). - 235 Lamb Cutlets in their own gravy (Entrée) 2 Poiep aye is - 235 ' Cutlets of Cold Lamb . e Aig hie CHAPTER XI PORK. To choose Pork . ° . - 236 | Hams superior to Westphalia *. 244 To melt Lard . 6 - 237 | Hams (Bordyke receipt) . . 245 To preserve unmelted Lard for To boila Ham . - 246 many months ° - . ib. | French receipt for boiling a "Ham 247 To roast a Sucking Pig ‘ - 238 | To bake a Ham . . . ein Baked Pig - . : - 239 | To boil Bacon. . - ib. Pig a la Tartare (Entr ée). « ib. | Bacon broiled or fried : 2 248 Sucking Pig, en blanquette (En- Dressed Rashers of Bacon . . ib. tree) =>. ¢ . A - ib. | Tonbridge Brawn P ‘ ede To roast Pork. ° ° . 240 | Italian Pork Cheese . - 249 To roast a Saddle of Pork . . ib. | Sausage-meat Cake (or Pain de To broil or fry Pork Cutlets - 241 Pore Frais) . . . - 250 Cobbett’s receipt for curing Bacon — ib. | Sausages . sritbs A genuine Yorkshire receipt for curing Hams and Bacon... 242 Kentish mode of cutting up and curing a Pig. . 4 . 243 French Bacon for larding . . 244 To pickle Cheeks of Bacon and Hams r ° ° e 5 #P Kentish Sausage- meat. . eiDs Excellent Sausages sails - 251 Pounded Sausage-meat(very good) iv. Boiled Sausages (Entrée) . Ee aia: Sausages and Chestnuts (an excel- lent dish) (Entrée) . . .« ib. Truffled Sausages, or Saucisses — aux truffies) © ce eel CHAPTER XIL POULTRY. To choose Poultry = : - 253 | Fricasseed Fowls or Chickens | To bone a Fowl or Turkey with- (Entrée) c - 264 out opening it c . 254 | Chicken Cutlets (Entr ée) ° + 265 Another mode of boning a Fowl Cutlets of Fowls, Partridges, or or Turkey / - 255 Pigeons Erorrew coeiny (En- To bone Fowls for Fricassees, Curries, and Pies . . . 256 To roast a Turkey t : me De To boil a Turkey . . 257 Turkey boned and forced (an ex- cellent dish) . : . 258 Turkey a la Flamande, or dinde poudrée. . . ° . 259 To roast a Goose . : . . 260 To roast a green Goose . é 26% To roast a Fowl . ‘ ‘ Roast Fowl (a French receipt) : To roast a Guinea Fowl. . «) ib. Fowl d@ la Carlsfors (Entrée) . Boiled Fowls . » 263 To broil a Chicken or Fowl ev ibs trée) - ib. Fried Chicken a la Malabar (Entrée) 2 ‘ . . 266 Hashed Fowl (Entrée) “ ib. Minced Fowl (French receipt) (Entrée) ¢ . . ib. Cold Fowls en Friture (Entrée) 267 Scallops of Fowl au aaeanemnet (intr ée) 5 ° ae ke Grillade of cold Fowls. . . . 268 Cold Fowls (the houpekoapes6 re- ceipt) a supper dish, oie Fowls @ la Mayonnaise é To roast Ducks . tig. Po) ae a) Stewed Duck (Entrée) Witt ne 200 To roast Pigeons . . e - 270 Boiled Pigeons A ° e - vib. xx CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIUL GAME. To choose Game . ane as Arp To roast a Haunch of Venison . 272 To stew a Shoulder of Venison . 273 To hash Venison . A - . 274 To roast a Hare . ; . abs Roast Hare (superior receipt) . 275 Stewed Hare , 4 ‘ - 276 To roast a Rabbit e * « 277 To boil Rabbits . 5 : e ib. Fried Rabbit 5 ‘ 7 eis ‘To roast a Pheasant . . 278 Boudin of Pheasant, a la Riche- liew (Entrée) : : sels To roast Partridges . « 279 Boiled Partridges : . - 280 Partridges with Mushrooms oid: Broiled Partridge (breakfast dish) 281 Broiled Partridge (French receipt) ib. The French, or Red-legged Part- ridge ib. To aa Black Cock and Grey Hen > . . ° . 282 To roast Grouse . ib. A salmi of Moorfowl, "Pheasants or Partridges (Entrée) . 283 A French salmi, or hash ‘of Game (Entrée) . . “lds To roast Woodcocks or Snipes . 284 To roast the Pintail or Sea- Pheasant ‘ ‘ 5 ces To roast Wild Ducks . 3 A salmi or hash of Wild Fowl . a CHAPTER XIV. CURRIES, Remarks on Curries . Mr. Arnott’s Currie Powder - 287 Mr. Arnott’s Currie . 3 . 288 A Bengal Currie (Entrée) Gtlee depen 1: A dry Currie (EZnirée) . 5 - 289 A common Indian Currie (En- trée) . 290 Selim’s Curries (Captain White’s) (Entrée) Piet ce tne ereu L _ Curried Maccaroni (Entrée) SDs Curried Eggs (Entrée) z . 292 Curried Sweeibreads (Fnitrée) . ib. POTTED MEATS, &e. CHAPTER XV. VEGETABLES. Observations on Vegetables 5 . 299 To clear Vegetables from Insects. 300 To boil Vegetables green . Gua hee To boil Potatoes (genuine Irish receipt) . ' «ab, To boil Paiatoad (Lancashire re- ceipt) . . ° - 301 To boil new Potatoes : . wan; New Potatoes in Butter 3 - 302 To boil Potatoes (Captain Kater’s receipt) . . e ib. To roast or bake Potatoes a < iD: Scooped Potatoes (Entremets) . ib. Curried Oysters (Hnirée) . . 298 Curried Gravy . . fs - 294 Potted Meats : ° - 295 Potted Ham 4 7 Fe . 296 Potted Chicken, Partridge, or Pheasant : ; 5 - 297 Potted Ox Tongue ° A Papi Potted Anchovies . . runs Lobster Butter . 5 A . 298 Potted Shrimps, or Prawns - ib. Potted Mushrooms (see Chapter e e s e ° ° ib. Fried Potatoes (Entremets) - 803 Mashed Potatoes . - . - ,ib. English Potato Balls . - 304 Potato Bouleties (good) (Entre- mets) . . be Ds Potato Rissoles (French) : = dbs Potatoes d la Maitre d’Hotel . 305 Potatoes @ la Créme . “ - ibe To boil Sea-Kale (Entremets) . ib. Sea-Kale stewed in Gravy (En- tremets) ‘ ib. Spinach (French receipt) ( Entre- “8 ‘CONTENTS, Spinach @ lV’ Anglaise, or English fashion (Entremets) . 306 Spinach (common English mode) 307 Another common English receipt for Spinach . «Ds Boiled Turnip Radishes c: «-1dDe Boiled Leeks : . : Ap wy Stewed Lettuces . “ : Ae as To boil Asparagus ‘ - 308 Asparagus - points dressed like Peas (Entremets) . ° «aD. To boil Green Peas. “ Green Peas ad la Francaise, or French fashion (Eniremets). ib. Green Peas with cream (Entre- mets) .. : 310 To boil French Beans . . . aid. French Beans @ la Francaise (Entremets) . ib. An excellent receipt for French Beans @ la Francaise . . 311 To boil Windsor Beans - aed. Dressed Cucumbers . ib. Mandrang, or Mandram (West Indian receipt) . . 312 Another receipt for Mandram Se by Dressed Cucumber (Author’s re- ceipt) . ib. Stewed Cucumber (English mode) 313 Cucumbers @ ia Poulette (Entre- mets) . ib. Cucumbers @ la Créme (Entre- mets). . - 314 Fried Cucumbers, to serve in common stews, hashes, and minces . . ‘ : aD Melon .°' . A ib. Salad . ; : c : French Salad 3 ; Suffolk Salad B é Yorkshire Ploughman’s Salad mud: Des Cerneaux, or Walnut Salad To boil Cauliflowers . . Caulifiowers, French receipt Ib. Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese . 4 ejattle Cauliflowers a la Francaise agiDs Broccoli . . ‘ . 317 xxi Vegetable Marrow e “ . 318 Tomatas en Salade . 7 318 Roast Tomatas . 3 3 ib. Stewed Tomatas . . P ib. Forced Tomatas (English receipt) 319 Forced Tomatas (French receipt) ib. Purée of Tomatas ° c - 320 Mushrooms au Beurre . - ib. Potted Mushrooms é 3 . B21 Mushroom-Toast, or Croute awx Champignons . ° . Truffles. A 2 322 Truffles with Champagne (a la Serviette) (Entremets) Truffles @ I’Italienne (Entre- mets) . 323 To boil Sprouts, Cabbages, or Savoys . : : 4 iD. Stewed Cabbage . ° : seks To boil Turnips . ‘ - 324 To mash Turnips . ib. Turnips in white Sauce (Entre- mets) . 6 4 ib. Turnips stewed in Butter 325 Turnips in Gravy. . : ails To boil Carrots . ib. Carrots, the Windsor are (En- =, ECG a Sith : . 326 Sweet Carrots (Entremets) c ib. Carrots aw Beurre . - 327 To boil Parsneps . fi - ib. Fried Parsneps . a ees Jerusalem Artichokes . : ib. To fry Jerusalem Artichokes (Bn. tremets) . . 328 Jerusalem Artichokes a ‘la Reine (Entremets) ib. Mashed Jerusalem Artichokes . Flaricots Blanes . * : «Ds To boil Beet-Root - p ia To Bake Beet-root 4 A re Stewed Beet-root . ° ib. To stew Red Cabbage (Flemish receipt) . ‘ . . ib. Brussels Sprouts ° : ° : Salsify . . Fried Salsify (Entremets) . ean Boiled Celery : . To boil ‘Artichokes - = - ib. | Stewed Celery (Entremets). ib. Artichokes en Salade (Hors Stewed Onions . oi Bhd ib. ad Giwvre) K ‘ P - ib. Stewed Chestnuts. . . 833 CHAPTER XVI PASTRY. Introduetory remarks .-" . . 334 | Cream Crust (very good) . . 387 To glaze or ice Pastry . . - 335 | Pate Brisée (or French Crust for Feitilletage, or fine Puff Paste . ib. hot or cold Meat Fes) ib, Very good light Paste A - 336 | Flead Crust y cee. 1D. English Puff Paste . . . ib. | Common Suet-Crust for Pies . 338 oe Xxil Very superior Suet-Crust . - 838 Very rich short Crust for Tarts . 339 ‘Briorhe Paste. 5 ip. Modern Potato Pasty (an excel- lent family dish) . : . 340 Casserole of Rice : . 842 Agocdcommon English: Game Pie 342 ~ Modern Chicken Pie - A common Chicken Pie . . 344 Pigeon Pie . ° ° ° iD. Beef-steak Pie . . ° *1 aD. Mutton Pie (common) . - 345 A good Mutton Pie . - 345 Raised Pies . 5 s . 346 A Vol-au- Vent ( Entrée) 5 » 347 A Vol-au- VentofFruit( Entremets)349 A Vol-au-Vent a la Créme (En- tremets) . . 349 Oyster Patties (Entrée) . . 349 Good Chicken Patties (Entrée) . 350 Patties @ la Pontife, and @ la Cardinale(Entrées) . . 350 Excellent Meat Rolls . = - 351 Patties, Tartlets, and small Vols- au- Vents . . - 351 Another receipt for Tartlets Ailey ASefton, or Veal Custard ( Entrée) 352 Apple Cake, or German Tart (En- tremets) Z . 352 Tourte Meringuée, or “Tart with royal icing (Hntremets) . 353 A good Apple Tart, and Creamed Apple Tart ( Entremets) . 354 CONTENTS. Barberry Tart ( Enéremets) » 354 Genoises & la Reine, or her Ma- jesty’s Pastry (Entremets) . 355 Almond Paste . » id. Tartlets of Almond Paste ‘(En- tremets) 5 . 306 Mincemeat (Author? s receipt) - 307 Superlative Mincemeat . = bs Mince Pies (Entremets) . . 858 Mince Pies Royal (Hnitremets) . ib. The Monitor’s Tart, or Tourte @ _ la Judd (Entremets) . Pudding Pies (Entremets) . Common Pudding Pies . : Cocoa-Nut Cheesecakes (Entre- mets) . 5 ib. Lemon Cheesecakes, Christ- Church College receipt (En-. tremets) . 860 Common Lemon Tartlets (Entre- : mets) . ead Madame Werner’s ” Rosenvik Cheesecakes (Entremets) . Créme Patissiére,or Pastry Cream Small Vols-au- Vents & la Howitt (Entremets) . . 362 Pastry Sandwiches (Entremets) . ib. Lemon Sandwiches (#ntremets) ib. Fanchonettes (Entremets) . — . 863 Currant-Jelly Tartlets, or Cus- tards (Entremets) : : Ramakins @ l’Ude, or Sefton- Fancies (second course remove) ib. ° 361 ib. ib. CHAPTER XVII. BOILED PUDDINGS. - 864 366 General Directions A ley for washing Pudding-cloths To clean Currants for Puddings or Cakes ° : To mix Batter for Puddings aa lig Suet Crust for Meat, or Fruit Pudding : ‘ 5 Butter Crust for Puddings . sul. Beef-steak, or John Bull’s ; Pudding 368 Small Beef-steak Pudding . 369 Ruth Pinch’s Pudding, or Beef- steak Pudding @ la Dickens. ib. Superlative Beef Puddin spabs Mutton Pudding Bic a . 370 Partridge Pudding “Ye.” 4. ib: Common Batter Pudding . Ay tee Another Batter Pudding . . 371 L'ack Cap Pudding . * ow IDs Ba.ter eee Pudding . ° - ib. ish Su . - 372 eo riige ls e ° ib. Apple, Currant, Cherry, or other fresh Fruit Pudding . . 372 A common Apple Pudding . » 373 The Publisher’s Pudding . - 374 Her Majesty’s Pudding fe - 375 Small Custard Pudding . «10. Common Custard Pudding . Fg 8s Prince Albert’s Pudding . - 376 German Pudding and Sauce - ib. A Cabinet Pudding . F - 377 A very fine Cabinet Pudding . ib. Miss Bremer’s Pudding . . 378 Very good Raisin Pudding . . 379 A superior Raisin Pudding . + SD. The Cig pe teseome Pud- din "4 . 380 Pudding a la Scoones . ° ib, Ingoldsby Christmas Pudding . ib. Cottage Christmas Pudding - 381 Small light Plum Pudding - ib: Another Pudding (light and wholesome) »© ce « ei “CONTENTS. Vegetable Plum Pudding (cheap and good) . An. ae small Mincemeat Pudding : ib. The Author’s Christmas “Pud- ding. : are) ag A Well Pudding — 7 : . 5 Rolled Pudding . ‘ ° é Bread Pudding c - ; Brown Bread Pudding - A good boiled Ricé Pudding - Cheap Rice Pudding . _ Rice and Gooseberry Pudding ° XXill Tomata Pudding or Dumplings (American receipt) : Fashionable Apple Dumplings . ib. Orange Snow Balls . ' « 387 Apple Snow Balls ° : aide Light Currant Dumplings . % ib. Lemon Dumplings : oe 1De Suffolk, or Hard Dumplings «ibe, Norfolk Dumplings . - 388 Sweet boiled Patties (good). Aa iie Boiled Rice to serve with stewed Fruit, Preserve, or Raspberry Vinegar oa: wear wy eile CHAPTER XVIII. BAKED PUDDINGS. Introductory Remarks 3 The Printer’s Pudding Ps . Almond Pudding S An excellent Lemon Pudding Another Lemon Pudding . “ Lemon Stet Pudding. . . Bakewell Pudding . ee Ratafia Pudding . ; The elegant Economist’s Pudding Rich Bread. and Butter Pudding A common Bread and Butter Pudding ° ‘A good baked Bread Pudding ‘ Another baked Bread Pudding . A good Semoulina Pudding . French Semoulina Pudding, or Gdteau de Semoule . . Sutherland, or Castle Puddings . out Puddings (to be served 1 co f “ ; : - A French Rice Pudding, or Gda- teau de Riz . ‘ : - A common Rice Pudding . Richer Rice Pudding . 3 . Rice Pudding Meringué . . Good ground Rice Pudding ‘ Common ground Rice Pudding . Green Gooseberry Pudding. . : a0 - 892 | | \ \ - 3889 , Potato Pudding . eee - 400 cot A richer Potato Pudding . An excellent Sponge Cake Pud- ding ° - ib. The Duchess’s Pudding - a abs Baked Apple Pudding, or Custard 402 Another baked Apple Pudding . ib. - | A.common baked Apple Pudding ib. ' Essex Pudding (cheap and good) 403 | Gabrielle’s Pudding, or sweet Cas- | ies Dutch Custard, or baked Rasp- berry Pudding . «2b CHAPTER XIX. SOUFFLES, OMLETS, ETC. Observations on Omlets, Fritters, Cc. é ‘ : Z f Omlette aux Fines Herbes . - A common Omlet F : ‘ An Omlette Sougjiée (Entremets) or second-course remove) . - 410 ib. 41] serole of Rice ‘ . Pople : Vermicelli Pudding . e . 404 Small Cocoa-nut Pudding . . 405 Good Yorkshire Pudding . a ae Common Yorkshire Pudding . 406 ie ormandy Pudding . P ~) IDs ‘ Damson and Rice Pudding - ib. Barberry and Rice Pudding . ibe Apple and Rice Pudding . . 407 Common Raisin Pudding . «> Ibe A richer Raisin Pudding . - ib. Poor Author’s Pudding c o> Ie? Pudding @ la Paysanne (cheap ! and good) . ‘ F . 408 Indian Pudding . e ° Pais | 08 Baked Hasty Pudding ° - ide | Sougiés . - 411 Rice Souffié (second-course re- move) . ae - 412 Louise Franks’ Citron Soufflé . ib. A Fondu (second course re- move) . ° oe) tee. 413 XXIV Kentish Fritters (Entremets) . 414 Plain common Fritters (Entve- mets) . 5 « ib. Pancakes ( Entremets) - xeealay Fritters of Cake and Pudding (Entremets) . ° . ao ig ‘Mincemeat Fritters (Entremets). ‘Venetian Fritters (very good) . iD Fritters of Spring Fruit( Entremets)416 ‘Apple, Peach, Apricot, or Orange Fritters (Entremets) . oy, aD Brioche Fritters (Entremets) Potato Fritters (Entremets) : Lemon Fritters (Eniremets) . Cannelons (Entremets) . 2B: Cannelons of Brioche paste. -418 CONTENTS. Croquettes of Rice (Entremets). 418 Finer Croquettes of Rice . . 419 Savoury Croquettes of Rice( Entrée) ib. 4 Rissoles (Entrée) : 20 Very savoury Rissoles (Entrée). ib. Rissoles of fish (Entrée) . . ib. To boil Pipe Maccaroni ; 74 Ribband Maccaroni . ‘ : Dressed Maccaroni (Entremets, or second course remove) . ib. Maccaroni é@ la Reine . ‘ Polenta, an Italian dish (second course remove) . sees Forced Eggs for Salad. 4 . 424 Forced Eggs, or Eggs en surprise (Entremets). «2. «6 «ibd. CHAPTER XxX. SWEET DISHES, To prepare Calf’s Feet Stock . 425 To clarify Calf’s Feet Stock - 426 To clarify Isinglass . A « ib. Spinach Green, for colouring Sweet Dishes, Confectionary, or Soups j ‘ . 427 Prepared Apple or Quince Juice. ib. Cocoa-nut flavoured Milk (for sweet dishes, &c.) . : - 428 Compotes of Fruit e eieke © ib. Compote of Peaches. . - 480 Another receipt for stewed Peaches . ib. ‘Stewed Barberries, or Compote . @ Epine-Vinetie . : . ‘Another Compote of Barberries j for Dessert . . ° . Gateau de Pommes . < ° Gédteaw of mixed Fruits (good) . ‘Calf’s Feet Jelly Another receipt for Calf’s. Feet Jelly . e . 434 Apple Calf’s Feet J elly ee a aelles Orange Calf’s Feet Jelly .. . 485 Grange Isinglass Jelly . e - 436 Oranges filled with Jelly . ALO '. Lemon Calf’s Feet Jelly . . 437 en Jelly . : . loys _ Strawberry Isinglass J by - 438 Fancy Jellies a . 489 Queen Mab’s Pudding Mar -ele- gant summer dish) ° - 440 Nesseiréde Cream Se ti . 44) Créne a& la Comtesse, or the Countess’s Cream .n - 442 An excellent Trifle . ° Swiss Cream, or Trifle (very good) 443 Tipsy Oe or Brandy Trifle . 444 OR ENTREMETS. Chantilly Basket filled with whipped Cream and fresh Strawberries . = : . 444 Créme Meringuée : R « ab. Lemon Cream, made without Cream , . ° A Very good Lemon Creams c ) ie Fruit Creams, and Italian Creams 446 Very superior whipped Syllabubs ib. Good common Blamange,orBlanc Manger (Author’s receipt) . Richer Blamange . . ; - ib. Jaumange, or Jaune Manger ; sometimes called Dutch Plum- mery . 448 Eevkfewiole good Sinavition gt Bla- mange . t Ds Quince Blamange "(delicious) 67 ib. Quince Blamange, with Almond Cream . ; . 449 Apricot .Blamange, or Créme Parisienne . “ “re ID. Blamange Rubané, or striped Blamange . : “ . 450 Currant Blamange . ,. -: ats Strengthening Blamange . . 451 Lemon Sponge, or Moulded Lemon Cream . ib. An Apple Hedgehog, or Suédoise 452 Imperial Gooseberry-fool . p ED. Very good old-fashioned Custard . : : Rich boiled Custard . The Queen’s Custard . Currant Custard . Quince or Apple Custards ‘The Duke’s Custard . Chocolate Custards . boiled # “Gooseberries dried without Sugar ‘CONTENTS. Common baked Custard . 2 455 “A finer baked Custard . ‘ . 456 French Custards . A Pests: German Puffs Pee 4 . 457 Meringue of Pears, or other fruit ib. An Apple Charlotte, or Charlotte de Ponumes . eels Marmalade for the Charlotte 3 abe A Charlotte @ la Parisienne > abs A Gertrude @ la Créme . . 458 XV { Pommes au Beurre (Buttered Apples, exceilent) o » 459 Suédoise of Peaches . . - 460 Arocé Docé (cr Sweet Rice. ala Portugaise) . 3 461 Buttered Cherries (Cerises au Beurre) . s é : «adh. Sweet Maccaroni . P , 462. Bermuda Witches . A ib. Nesselréde Pudding . Z . 463 CHAPTER XXI. PRESERVES. Introductory remarks . 3 . 464 A few General Rules and Direc- tions for Preserving To Extract = Juice of Plums - 466 for Jell . 468 To weigh the J uice of Fruit oe: Rhubarb Jam . < 3 ead, Green Gooseberry J elly - C Green Gooseberry Jam (firm and of good colour) . . weds To dry green Gooseberries . + ibs Green Gooseberries for Tarts . 470 Green Gooseberry Solid : » ib. Red Gooseberry Jam . . - IDs Very fine Gooseberry Jam . - 471 Jelly of ripe Gooseberries aad lent) . «1D. emixed Gooseberry J relly . « « 472 Gooseberry Paste. A ib. To dry ripe Gooseberries with Sugar. ib. Cherry Jam . To dry Cherries “with Sugar (a quick and easy method) she ah Oy Dried Cherries (superior receipt). 474 Cherries dried without Sugar . ib. Morella Cherries . ‘ - «475 Common Cherry Cheese . aD. Cherry Paste (French). : Alatee Strawberry Jam . “ é pyaD. Strawberry Jelly . - 476 Another very fine: Strawberry Jelly . : IDs To preserve Strawberries or Rasp- berries, for Creams or Ices, without boiling . ‘ . Raspberry Jam . Good Red or White “Raspberry Jam ib. Raspberry Jelly “for ‘flavouring Creams . . 478 Another Raspberry Jelly (very id. ib. ib. ° ° ° Red Currant Jelly ° Superlative Red. Currant oy elly (Norman receipt) . ( «aD. French Currant Jelly . ‘ 480 Delicious Red Currant Jam 5 ce lor Very fine White Currant Jelly . 481 - White Currant Jam, a beautiful Preserve . : ; habe Currant Paste rs : ede Fine Black Currant J: elly : . 482 Common Black Currant Jelly. . ib. Black Currant Jam . . abs Nursery Preserve. ‘ ls Another good common Preserve 483 Agood Me élange,or mixed Preserve ib. Groseillée(anothergood Preserve) ib. A fine Preserve of the Green Orange Plum (sometimes called the Stonewood Plum) 484 Greengage Jam, or Marmalade . ib. Preserve of the Magnum Bonum, ~ or Mog ms; ;'. c : To dry or preserve Mogul Pums in syrup ~ + @ib, Mussel Plum Cheese and J élly oA De Apricot Marmalade . A » 486 To dry Apricots (a quick and easy method) ‘ at ons Dried Apricots (French receipt) . 487 Peach Jam, or Marmalade . 488 To preserve, or to dry Peaches or. — Nectarines (an easy and ex- | cellent receipt) . ‘ «iB: Damson Jam (very good) . 489 Damson Jelly ' ‘ 4 « iD, Damson solid (good) . 4 ands Excellent Damson Cheese . 490 Grape Jelly . sey 7 ib. English Guava . 5 ib. Very fine Imperatrice Plum Mar- malade . : . 491 To dry Imperatrice Plums (an easy method) = . 492 To bottle Fruit for winter use . ib. | Apple Jelly . . : ° - 493 ate XXVI Exceedingly fine mee Jelly Quince Jelly : ; - 494 Quince Marmalade “ - 495 Quince and Apple Marmalade . 496 Quince Paste A 7 As oy Jelly of Siberian Crabs * ib. To preserve Barberries in bunches 497 CONTENTS. Barberry Jam (second receipt) . 498 Very common Jam . “ - ib. Superior Barberry J elly, and Mar- malade . . 4 +<.iD. Orange Marmalade . ; . 499 Genuine Scotch Marmalade * 500 Orange Conserve for Puddings . 501 Barberry Jelly -. ib. | Lemon Conserve, ee 2 « ibe Barberry Jam (a good receipt) - 498 CHAPTER XXII. PICKLES. ‘ Observations on Pickles e- + 502, To pickle Walnuts ° A itd r To pickle Cherries . ° - 503 | To pickle Beet-root . . . 508 Topickle Gherkins . . ib. | Pickled Eschalots ogre, eee d De To pickle Gherkins (a French Pickled Onions’ 4.7). "15 ab. receipt) To pickle Lemons and Limes To pickle Peaches, and Peach (excellent) 22... ei enue Mangoes 5 - ib. | To pickle Nasturtiums ; ib, Sweet Pickle of Melon, to serve To pickle Barberries and Sibe- Eta with roast meat (good) . 505 rian Crabs , e . - 510 To pickle Mushrooms - . 506 | Pickled Cabbage oC re. ie ee Ay, Mushrooms in brine, for winter . use (very good) . . - 507 - CHAPTER XXIIL CAKES. Saas Remarks on Cakes - 511 { A good Madeira Cake . 5 . 519 To blanch Almonds . . .4512{| A Solimemne (a rich French To pound Almonds . . s ADs breakfast cake,or Sally Lunn) ib. -.To reduce Almond a Paste Banbury Cakes . . . - 520 (the quickest and easiest way) -ib. | Meringues . “ . ° - 521 - To colour Almonds or Sugar- Italian Meringues : oh 22 grains, for Cakes or Pastry . 518 | Thick, light Gingerbread . . ib. To prepare Butter for rich Cakes. ib. | Good common Gingerbread - 523 To whisk Eggs for light rich Richer Gingerbread . : . “ib. Cakes . i : - ib. | Cocoa-nut Gingerbread . «ape Orange-Flower Macaroons (de- licious) . 4 . . . 514 Almond Macaroons . = bib. Cocoa-nut Macaroons (very fine) 515 Imperials (not very rich) . .- ib. Very good small rich Cakes ScD. - Almond Rocher . A > sabe Bitter Almond Biscuits . . 516 Fine Almond Cake . . SISEDS Pound Cake A * . POLE, Rice Cake . r 4 6 iF te Ds White Cake Shee i: eer Ds A good Sponge Cake . ‘ . 518 A smaller Sponge Cake (very . ib. 00d) ce"). " c : A Sponge Cake (good and quickly WHQ0G) Bred 0): ay steed ee OLD ‘| Most excellent Buns . < 3 Another. receipt for Cocoa-nut Gingerbread . . . 524 Parliament . : . ° » ib. Cheap Ginger Biscuits <4 ib. Judge Franks’ Ginger Biscuits (very good) . . . Chestnut Biscuits : Isle of Wight Dough-Nuts . Cinnamon, or Lemon Cakes Queen Cakes * ° . Jumbles . ° A cheap common “Cake ° A good Soda Cake . . A good light Bun .- Cocoa-nut Biscuit (excellent) : tO OR Cee 8 @ ee 6 2 bate ele ; or “A Galette . e ° ° CONTENTS. XxXvil Cornish heavy Cake . . - 530 | Good Captain’s Biscuits wn OSL Fleed, or Flead Cakes ° - ib. | The Colonel’s Biscuits ; - ID. ‘ Threadneedle-street Biscuits - 531 | Aunt Charlotte’s Biscuits . . ib. a CHAPTER XXIV. CONFECTIONARY. To clarify Sugar . : - 5382 | Orange-Flower Candy (another To boil Sugar from Syrup to receipt) . = C : : Candy to Caramel i - 583 | Cocoa-nut Candy ° : « iby Caramel (the quickest ray) - 534 | Palace Bon-Bons ° ° . 537 Barley Sugar é . -- ib. Everton Toftie’ "ss aD Nougat bois: Pirsae ja 64D, :| Lottie (another Way )ip sa seen sae ; Ginger Candy 3 - . 535 | Chocolate Drops : ©. ye OD Sores eres Candy . . 5386 | Chocolate Almonds . e aa ARs CHAPTER XXYV. DESSERT-DISHES. . Mélange of Fruit : ; - 539 | Baked Compote of Apples (our Fruit en Chemise or Perlé els little lady’s receipt) . . 542 Peach Salad . 5 A c - 540 | To bake Pears . 5 et £0 . ib. Orange Salad ji ib. | Stewed Pears < , 2) eet Os Compote of Oranges (a Hebrew Boiled Chestnuts . F : . 543 dish) . C - 5 - ib. | Roast Chestnuts . . gn? toes Oranges warmed . 3 . ib. | Almond Shamrocks (very good Black Caps par excellence : . 541 and very pretty) . Raise ig 1: Normandy Pippins . ; ib. | Small Sugar Souffiés . , ay egy: Stewed Pruneaux de Tours, or ‘hin ness. Tours dried Plums a AD. ini * AM, | Se: i e) CHAPTER XXVI. ; SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC. Mi Strawberry Vinegar, of delicious The Regent’s, or George the abt flavour . : r - 545 Fourth’s, Punch . ~ - 551 oM Strawberry Acid Royal : - 546] The old Bachelor’s Punch . « id, Mars cs Very fine Raspberry Vinegar .547/ Mint Julep (an American re- var Fine Currant Syrup, or Sirop de ceipt) . - « 952 Groseilles . . ib. | Delicious Milk Lemonade : « ibs Orange-flower Ratafia (a delicious Excellent Portable Lemonade . ib. liqueur) . . ° . - 548 | Excellent Barley Water (poor Y x Oxford Punch. 5 TID: _ Xury’s receipt) . ib. Oxford receipt for Bishop . - 549 | Raisin Wine (which, if long kept, Cambridge Milk Punch ; *) 1D. really resembles foreign) . 553 To Mull Wine (an excellent French | Elderberry Wine(very good) . ib. receipt) . a . - 550 [ Very good Ginger Wine . - 554 A birthday Syllabub > j . ib. | Excellent Orange Wine rari |3 Cuirasseau, or Curacoa(an excel- Counsellor’s Cup . . C - 555 ___ lent and wholesome liqueur) 551 4 XXVill CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIL COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC. To roast Coffee . “ A . 556 called. Gloria) . . 559- To make Coffee . - «557 | To make Chocolate (French re- Burnt Coffee (in France vulgarly ceipt) . re ey) igh CHAPTER XXVIII. BREAD. To purify Yeast for Bread or Cakes 560 ; Rusks .. - . O64 The Oven . A ; ; - ib. | Crusts to serve with Cheese : . 565 To make Bread . - 561 | Cocoa-nut Bread . - 105 Bordyke Bread (Author’s receipt) 562 | Excellent Bread Crust for Hot _ Brown Bread | . 4 . - 563 Pies or Tarts , is Potato Bread ° 5 5 - ib. | English Brioche, and Br ioche- Geneva Rolls 5 e ° . 564 Rusks . 2 ; antes APPENDIX. Cherry-Brandy a uappington: Eve- The Gentle Critic’s Tourte a la Créme . A e, e ° A Peas Pudding (to serve weit second course 5 S ; rard receipt) . . 566 boiled pork) . . 575 Brandied Morella Cherries : - ib. | The Poor Curate’s Pudding - O76 Peaches in cei (Rotterdam The Cavalier’s Broil . ib. receipt) . - + «ib. | Veal Goose (City of London Chantilly Pectin 5 A . 567 receipt . . 576 To make Orange Baskets for Jelly ib. | To Dress Rein Deer Tongues . O77 Strawberry Tartlets (good) . . ib. | Currant Shrub. ib. Raspberry Puffs . ° . « ib. | Sausage Soup (Swedish receipt) . ib. Creamed Tartlets. . . . ib. | Calf ’s Liver Stoved, or Stewed . 578 Norfolk Cheese Cakes . 568 | Sugar-Glazings, and Icings (for Store Mixture fo Tartlets fine pastry and cakes) . va A (which will remain good for To Dress and to Choose Macea- a year or two 3 ib. roni, and other Italian pastes 579 Puffs @ la Colburn (extremely Venetian Cake, or Cakes (super- goo . excellent . - 580 Rice @ la Vati ek ib. | Scottish Shortbread (excellent) . 581 Croustades, 0 Sweet Patties a Excellent Short Crust for sweet la minute . pastry . otis Crisped Potatoes, or Potato- Aue. Kegntye "(German re- Ribbons (to serve with eipt) . ib. Cheese) . 5 x . 571 Fairy Fancies (Fantarsres de Savoury Toasts . ib. DT Oe ‘ . 582 Croquettes of Shrimps (Entrée) 571 An Admirable Cool Cup Ns 583 Trufiied Omlet (Entremets) - 572 | Moulded Rice, or nage and A Poivrade Sauce 4 2 ore Apple-juice . : 3) fale An English Potvrade Sauce - ib. | To Dress Carp (a common coun- The Poet’s Receipt for Salad . 573 try receipt. . . 584 Lobster Salad (Entremets) . ib.| Moulded Potted Meat for the CONTENTS. XXIX APPENDIX, No IL ~ Curried Soles . To poach Eggs 6 Poached Eggs with Gravy (Entre- mets) Gufs Pochés au Jus 584d Broiled Hels with Sage (Entrée) Ger- man receipt . C ais Potted Lobsters (Entremets) . 584¢ Lobsier Cutlets (a superior Entrée) ib. Superlative Lobster Patties . . 584d Lobster Sausages . “ i Ds To steam a Pudding in a common Stewpan or Saucepan . eclipse Maize Pudding (an excellent substi- - tute for Potatoes) . = . 584e Pudding of Polenta, or Italian Flour of Maize . ; 584e Sweet Pudding of Polenta 4 + Ibe Polenta a VItalienne . . 584f Mush, or Porridge of Maize- Meal, which resembles the Scottish Crowdie . : Shrimps, Potted, Whole (an admir- able receipt) ue To render Chickens white, for poil- in aL Oe Saree Soup and Soup ala J alienne 584h TRUSSING AND CARVING. TRUSSING :—* General Directions for Trussing Xxxili To truss a Turkey, Fowl, Phea- sant, or Partridge, for roast- ing . : : C fe 8.8-9:°4) CARVING:— No.1. Cod’s Head and Shoulders (and Cod Fish generally) xxxvii No. 2. A Turbot 5 é . XXXViii Soles E “ - A ib. No.3. Salmon . : ib. No. 4. Saddle of Mutton A ; ib. No. 5. A Haunch of Venison (or Mutton) . RMB 8:6:4-6 No. 6. Sirloin of Beef F : ib. Ribs of Beef . e : ib. Around of Beef . A ib. -A brisket of Beef . - ib. No. 7. Leg of Mutton : . x1 No, 8. A quarter of Lamb : ib. No. 9. Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb ib. No. 10. A Sucking Pig . C xl A fillet of Veal . : ib. - Aloin of Veal. A xli No.1]. A Breast of Veal . ' ib. No. 12. A Tongue . q : ib. No. 13. A Calf’s Head. 6 ib. No.14.A Ham. . ‘ < xlii No. 15. A Pheasant > ‘ xliii No. 16. A boiled Fowl . ib. No. 17. A roast Fowl : xliv No. 18. A Partridge - 0 ib. No. 19. A Woodcock : é xIv No. 20. A Pigeon . ( . ib. No. 21. A Snipe . F xlvi No, 22. A Goose é < b ib. Ducks . : Z — ADs No. 28. A Wild Duck xlvii No. 24. A Turkey «5. = ib. No, 25. A Hare ae. ; ib. . A Fricandeau of Veal xlviii VOCABULARY OF TERMS, PRINCIPALLY FRENCH, USED IN MODERN COOKERY. Aspic—fine transparent savoury jelly, in which cold game, poultry, fish, &c., are mould- ed ; and which serves also to decorate or garnish them. AssietieVolante—a dish which is handed round the table with- out ever being placed upon it. Small fondus in paper cases are often served thus; and various other prepara- tions, which require to be eaten very hot. Blanquette—a kind of fricassee. Boudin—a somewhat expensive dish, formed of the French forcemeat called quenelies, composed either of game, poultry, butcher’s meat, or fish, moulded generally into the form of a rouleau, and gently poached until it is firm, then sometimes: broiled or fried, but as frequently served plain. Bouilli—boiled beef, or other meat, beef being more gene- rally understood by the term. Bouillie—a sort of hasty pud- ding. Bouillon—broth. Casserole—a stewpan; and the name also given to a rice- crust, when moulded in the form of a pie, then baked and filled* with a mince or purée of game, or with a blanquette of white meat. Court Bouillon—a preparation of vegetables and wine, in which (in expensive cookery) fish is boiled. Consommée—very strong rich stock or gravy. Croustade—a case or crust formed of bread, in which minces, purées of game, and other preparations are served. Crouton—a sippet of bread. Entrée—a first course side or corner dish.* Entremets—a second course side or corner dish. Espagnole, or Spanish sauce—a brown gravy of high savour. * Neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of entrées ; and the same remark applies equally to the entremets in the second course. Large standing dishes at the sides, such as raised pies, timbales, &c., served usually in grand repasts, are called flanks ; but in an ordinary service, all the intermediate dishes between the joints and roasts are distinguished by the name of entrées, or entremets. XxXXil Farce—forcemeat. Fondu—a cheese soufjlé. Gateau—a cake, also a pudding, as Giiteau de Riz; some- times alsu a kind of tart, as Gateau de Pithiviers. Hors d’cuvres—small dishes of anchovies, sardines, and other relishes of the kind, served in the first course. Macaroncini—a small kind of maccaroni. Maigre--made without meat. Matelote—a rich and expensive stew of fish with wine, gene- rally of carp, eels, er trout. Meringue—a cake, or icing, made of sugar and whites of egg beaten to snow. Meringué—covered or iced with a meringue-mixture. Nouilles—a paste made of yolks of egg and flour, then cut small like vermicelli. VOCABULARY OF TERMS. Purée—meat, or vegetables, re- duced to a smooth pulp, and then mixed with sufficient liquid to form a thick sauce or soup. Quenelles—French forcemeat, for which see page 150. Rissoles — small fried pastry either sweet or savoury. Sparghettti—Naples vermicelli. Stock—the unthickened broth or gravy which forms the basis of soups and sauces. ; Tammy—a strainer of fine thin woollen canvas.* Timbale—a sort of pie made in a mould. Tourte—a delicate kind of tart, baked generally in a shallow tin pan, or without any, see page 574. Vol-au-vent—for this, see page > 347. Zita—Naples maccaront * Sold at the Italian warehouses. i's é oo XXXII TRUSSING. Trussing Needles. Common and untrained cooks are often deplorably ignorant of this branch of their business, a knowledge of which is, neverthe- less, quite as essential to them as is that of boiling or roasting, for without it they cannot, by any possibility, serve up dinners of decently creditable appearance. We give such brief general directions for it as our space will permit, and as our own obser- vation enables us to supply; but it has been truly said, by a great authority in these matters, that trussing cannot be “ taught by words ;” we would, therefore, recommend, that instead of relying on any written instructions, persons who really desire thoroughly to understand the subject, and to make themselves acquainted with the mode of entirely preparing all varieties of game and poultry more especially, for table, in the very best manner, should apply for some practical lessons to a first-rate poulterer; or, if this cannot be done, that they should endeavour to obtain from some well-experienced and skilful cook the in- struction which they need. 1 GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. Before a bird is trussed the skin must be entirely freed from any.down which may be vn it, and from all the stubble-ends of the feathers ;* the hairs also must be singed from it with lighted writing paper, care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in the operation. - Directions for cleansing the insides of birds after they are drawn, are given in the receipts for dressing them, Chapters xii. and xiii. Turkeys, geese, ducks—wild or tame, fowls, and pigeons, should all have the necks taken off close to the bodies, but not the skin of the necks, which should be left sufficiently long to * This should be particularly attended to. Cc XXXIV TRUSSIN , turn down upon the backs for a couple of inches or more, where it must be secured, either with a needle and coarse soft cotton, or by the pinions of the birds when trussed. For boiling, all poultry or other birds must have the feet drawn off at the first joint of the leg, or as shown in the en- graving. (In the latter case the sinews of the joint must be slightly cut, when the bone may be easily turned back as here.) The skin must then be loosened with the finger entirely from the legs, which must be ~, pushed back into the body, and the small 2S ’ ends tucked quite under the apron so as to be ~ entirely out of sight. The wings of chickens, fowls, turkeys, and pigeons are left on entire, whether for roasting or boiling. From geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, black game, “YZ moor-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, wild-fowl of ail\. *?:. kinds, and all small birds, the first two joints are taken off, leaving but one joint on, thus :— The feet are left on ducks, and those of tame ones are trussed as will be seen at page 269; and upon roast fowls, pheasants, black and moor-game, pigeons, woodcocks, and snipes. The thick coarse skin of the legs of these must be stripped, or rubbed off with a hard cloth after they have been held in boil- ing water, or over a clear fire for a few minutes. The sharp talons must be pulled out, and the nails clipped. The toes of pigeons for roasting should be cut off. Geese, sucking-pigs, hares, and rabbits have the feet taken off at the first joint. The livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast turkeys and fowls only. The heads are still commonly left on pheasants, partridges, and black, and moor-game; but the fashion is declining. Of this we shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter. Poultry and birds in general, except perhaps quite the larger kinds, are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with twine and needles proper to the purpose (for which see p. 33), than with skewers. The manner in which the legs and wings are confined is much the same for all ; the principal difference being in the arrangement of the former for boiling, which has already been explained. There is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for boiling or stewing which to our taste is more novel than attrac- - tive. The feet are left an, and after the skin has been loesened TRUSSING. XXXV from them in-every part, the legs are thrust entirely into the body by means of a slight incision made in the skin just above the. first joint on the underside, the feet then appear almost as if growing out of the sides of the breast: the effect of this is not pleasing. TO TRUSS A TURKEY, FOWL, PHEASANT, OR PARTRIDGE FOR ROASTING. First draw the skin of the neck down over the back, and secure it from slipping up; then thread a trussing needle of convenient size,* for the occasion, with packthread or small twine. (the former, from being the most flexible, is best); pass it through the pinion of the bird, then through the thick part of the thigh, which must be brought up close under the wing, and in a straight line quite through the body, and through the leg and pinion on the other side; draw them close, and bring the needle back, passing it through the thick part of the leg, and through the second joint of the pinion, should it be left on the bird; tie it quite tight ; and then to secure the legs, pierce the sidebone and carry the twine over the legs, then pass the needle through the other sidebone, and tie them close down. If skewers be used they should be driven through the pinions and the legs, and a twine passed across the back of the bird, and caught over the points of it, and then tied in the centre of the back : this is only - needful when the trussing is not firm. e When the head is left on a bird, it may still be trussed in the same way, and the head brought round, as shown \)/7_.....__ here, and kept in place by a SA canny === Skewer passed through it, an ogg and run through the body. Partridge. Should the bird be trussed entirely with skewers, the point of one is brought from the other side, through the pinions and the thighs, and the head is fixed upon it. The legs are then pressed as much as possible under the breast, between it and the side-bones, where they are lettered ab, The partridge in the engraving is shown with the skewers ay ~~ 7 just. withdrawn after being roasted. Hares, after beiny filled with forcemeat, and sewn or securely fastened up with skewers, are brought into proper roasting form. ' © These may be had, of various sizes, at any good ironmonger’s. c2 XXXVI TRUSSINGe by having the head fixed between the shoulders, and either fastened to the back by means of a long skewer, run through the head quite into it, or by passing one through the upper part of the shoulders and the neck together, which will keep it equally well in place, though less thrown back. ‘The fore-legs are then laid straight along the sides of the hare, and a skewer is thrust through them both and the body at the same time; the sinews are just cut through under the hind-legs, and they are brought forward as much as possible, and skewered in the same manner as the others. A string is then thrown across, under the hare and over the points of both skewers, being crossed before it is passed over the second, and then tied above the back. The ears of a hare are left on; those of a rabbit, which is trussed in the same way, are taken off. Joints of meat require but little arrangement, either for the spit or for boiling. A fillet of veal must have the flap, or part to which the fat adheres, drawn closely round the outside, and be skewered or bound firmly into good shape: this will apply equally to a round of beef. The skin or flank of loins of meat must be wrapped over the ends of the bones, and skewered on the underside. The cook should be particularly careful to joint these when it has not been done by the butcher, and necks of veal or mutton also, or much trouble will often arise to the carver. y To flatten and bring cutletsinto uniform shape, a bat of this form is used; and to egg or to cover === them with clarified butter Cutlet Bat. when they dre to be crumbed, a paste-brush should be at hand. Indeed, these and many other small means and appliances, ought to be provided for every cook who is expected to perform her duty in a regular and proper manner, for they save much time and trouble, and their first expense is very slight; yet many kitchens are almost entirely without them. CARVING. . XXXVIL ‘CARVING. SK TItTT | I a SS a aSe (TLS LG Sea SSS aS == S222 56=5 2 => eases Fish Knife, or Slice. Wuetuer the passing fashion of the day exact it of her or not, a gentlewoman should always, for her own sake, be able to carve, well and easily, the dishes which are placed before her, that she may be competent to do the honours of a table at any time with propriety and_self-possession.* -To gentlemen, and especially to those who mix much in society, some knowledge of this art, and a certain degree of skill in the exercise of it, are indispensable, if they would avoid the chance of appearing often to great disadvantage themselves, and of causing dissatisfaction and annoyance to others; for the uncouth operations of bad carvers occasion almost as much discomfort to those who wit- ness, as they do generally of awkwardness and embarrassment to those who exhibit them. The precise mode of carving various dishes must of course depend on many contingencies. For a piain family-dinner, or where strict economy is an imperative consideration, it must- sometimes, of necessity, differ from that which is laid down here. We have confined our instructions to the fashion usually adopted in the world. Carving knives and forks are to be had of many forms and sizes, and adapted to different purposes: the former should always have a very keen edge, and the latter two prongs only. . No.1. ccp’s HEAD AND SHOULDERS (AND COD FISH GENERALLY). The thick part of the back of this, as of all large fish—salmon’ excepted—is the firmest and finest eating. It should be carved * As this can only be accomplished by practice, young persons should be early accustomed to carve at home, where the failure of their first attempts will cause them much less embarrassment than they would in another sphere, and at a later period of life. XXXVIIL CARVING. across, rather thick, and, as much as possible, in unbroken slices, from a to 6. The sound, which is considered a delicacy, lies underneath, and lines the back-bone: it must be reached with a spoon in the direction c. The middle of the fish, when served to a family party, may be carved in the same manner, or in any other which convenience and economy may dictate.. No. 2. A TURBOT. In carving this most excellent fish, the rich gelatinous skin attached to it, and a portion of the thick part of the fins should be served with every slice. If the point of the fish-knife be drawn down the centre of the back through to the bone, in the line a bc, and from thence to ddd, the flesh may easily be raised upon the blade in handsome portions. The thickest parts of all flat fish are the best. A brill and a John Dory are’ served exactly like a turbot. There are some choice morsels about the head of the latter. . SOLES. _ The more elegant mode of serving these, and the usual one at good tables, is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot, which is easily done when the fish are large ; but when they are too small well to admit of it, they must be divided across quite through the bone: the shoulders, and thick part of the body, are the superior portions. No. 3. SALMON. It is customary to serve a slice of the thick part of the back of this fish, which is marked from a to 6, with one of the thinner and richer portions of it, shown by the line, from ¢ to d. It should be carved quite straight across, and the fine flakes of the flesh should be preserved as entire as possible. Salmon-peel, pike, haddocks, large whitings, and all fish which are served curled round, and with the backs uppermost, are carved in the same manner ; the flesh is separated from the ‘bone in the centre of the back, and taken off, on the outer side first, in convenient portions for serving. The flesh of mackerel is best raised from the bones by passing the fish-slice from the tail to the head: it may then be divided in two. No. 4. SADDLE OF MUTTON. This joint is now trussed for roasting in the manner shown. in the engraving; and when it is dished a silver skewer replaces CARVING. y XXX1X the one markede. It is likewise often still served in good families with only two or three joints of the tail left on. The most usua mode of carving it is in thin slices cut quite along the bone, on either side, in the line a to 6; but at simple dinners it is some- times sliced obliquely from ¢ to d: this last fashion is rather gaining ground. ‘The thick end of the joint must then, of course, be to the left of the.carver. A saddle of pork or of lamb is carved in exactly the same manner. oy No: 5. A HAUNCH OF VENISON (OR MUTTON). An incision must first be made entirely across the knuckle end of this joint, quite down to the bone, in the line a 4,'to let the gravy escape; it must then be carved in thin slices taken as deep as they can be, the whole length of the haunch, from ¢ tod. A portion of the fat should invariably be served _ with the venison. No. 6. sIRLOIN OF BEEF. As the very tender part of this favourite joint, which lies under the bone, and is called the /illet, is preferred by many eaters, the beef should be raised, and some slices be taken from it in the direction a b, before the carver proceeds further. The slices should be cut quite across the joint, from side to side, as indicated by the line from ¢ to d, in which direction the whole of the meat is occasionally carved, though it is much more usual to slice the upper part from e to f. When the brown outside has been taken off this, it should be evenly carved in thin slices, and served with some of the gravy in the dish, and accompanied with horse-radish very lightly and finely scraped, with tufts by which the beef is commonly garnished. ar RIBS OF BEEF Are carved in the same manner as the sirloin; but there is no fillet attached to them. A ROUND OF BEEF. To carve this well, a very sharp-edged and thin-bladed knife is requisite. A thick slice should first be taken entirely off the top of the joint, leaving it very smooth ; it should then be cut as thin and as evenly as possible, and delicate slices of the fat or udder should be served with the lean. A BRISKET OF BEEF Is carved in slices quite across the bones. xl CARVING. No. 7. LEG OF MUTTON. This, whether roast or boiled, is dished as it lies in the en- graving, unless when fanciful eaters prefer the underside of the joint laid uppermost, and carved quite across the middle, for the sake of the finely-grained meat which lies beneath the part commonly called the Pope’s eye. In a general way, the mutton should be sliced, rather thick than thin, as directed by the line between a and 0b; the fat will be found inthe direction c d. No. 8. A QUARTER OF LAMB. The shoulder must be divided, and raised entirely from the breast in the direction of the lettersa bed. A slice of butter sprinkled with cayenne and salt is then usually laid between them, and a little lemon-juice is added, or a cold Maitre d Hotel sauce is substituted for these. ‘The shoulder may then be removed into a separate dish or not, as is most convenient. The brisket is next separated from the long bones in the line e f, and carved in the direction g 4; the rib-bones are divided from t Q tojj. The choice of the different parts is offered in serving them. No. 9. SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB. Commence by cutting from the outer edge direct to the bone of the shoulder in the line a 6, and carve as many slices from that part of the joint as it will afford ; then, if more be required, draw the knife on either side of the ridge of the blade-bone in the direction ec ¢dd. The fat must be carved in the line e /. Some eaters have a preference for the juicy, but not very finely- grained flesh on the under-side of the shoulder, which must be turned, for it to be carved. For the mode of boning a shoulder of mutton or veal, and giving it a more agreeable appearance, see p. 206. No. 10. A SUCKING PIG. Every part ofa sucking pig is good, but some epicures consider the flesh of the neck which lies between the shoulders, and the ribs as the most delicate portion of it. The shoulders them- selves are preferred by others. They should be taken off, and the legs also, by passing the knife under them at the letters abc. The ribs may then be easily divided from etod. The flesh only of the larger joints should be served to ladies; but gentlemen often prefer it sent to them on the bones. CARVING, xli A FILLET OF VEAL. There is no difference between the mode of carving this and a round of beef; but the brown outside slice of the veal is much liked by many eaters, and a portion of it should be served to them when it is known to be so. The forcemeat must be reached by cutting deeply into the flap, and a slice of it served always with the veal. a A LOIN OF VEAL. This may be carved at choice quite across through the thick part of the flesh, or in slices taken in the direction of the bones. A slice of the kidney, and of the fat which surrounds it, should accompany the veal. ~ No. 11. A BREAST OF VEAL. The brisket or gristles* of this joint must first be entirely separated from the rib-bones by pressing the knife quite through it in the line between a and 0b; this part may then be divided as shown by the letters ccc ddd, and the long bones or ribs may easily be separated in the direction e f. The taste of those who are served should be consulted as to the part of the joint which is preferred. ‘The sweetbread is commonly sent to table with a roast breast of veal, and laid upon it: a portion of it should be served with every plate of the breast. No. 12. A TONGUE. This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best part, shown by the letters a 6. The fat of the root, when it is liked, must be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the ~ direction ¢ d. No. 13. A CALF’s HEAD. An entire calf’s head, served in its natural form, recalls too * The tendons are literally the small white gristles themselves, which are found under the flesh in this part of the joint. When freed from the bone attached to them, they may be dressed in a variety of ways, and are extremely good; but they require long stewing, four hours or more, to render them perfectly tender, even when each tendon is divided into three or four slices. We regret having been compelled to omit our receipts for them, as well as for many other small light dishes of the kind. The upper flesh must be laid back from the tendons before they are taken from the breast, not left adhering to them. They are very good simply stewed in white gravy, and served with green peas, @ la Frangaise, in the centre. The breast entirely boned, forced, and rolled, makes a handsome dish, either roasted or stewed. xlii CARVING» forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has be- longed not to be very uninviting. Even when the half of one only is sent to table, something of the same aspect remains, and. as it is in every way improved, and rendered most easy to carve when boned* and rolled, we would recommend its being so pre-.- pared whenever it can be done without difficulty. Our engray- EE ing does not give a very flattering ,, representation of it in that form, but /, having been dressed with the skin on, j) t was not quite so easily brought into “handsome shape asif it had been freed. from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is carved across the cheek, in the line from ato 6; the throat sweetbread, which is regarded as a delicacy, lies in the direction indicated by the letters cd. The flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel, which must be detached from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole, in the circle marked e e. No. 14, A HAM. Strict economists sometimes commence the carving of a ham at the knuckle, and so gradually reach the choicer portion of it; but this method is not at all to be recommended. It should be cut at once through the thick part of the flesh, quite down to the bone, in the line a 8, and sliced very thin and evenly, with- out separating the fat from the lean. Of the manner in which the ham No. 14 is decorated, we can only inform the reader here, that a portion of the rind is left on at the knuckle in a semi-circle, and then trimmed into scollops or points at plea- sure; and that the ornamental part of the top is formed from the fat, which is pared away from the thick end and the edges. * this will be more easily accomplished by an inexperienced cook after the head has been boiled. for half an hour and then allowed .to cool; but it should not be left till cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing. After the bones are re+ moved, it should be laid on a clean cloth, and the inside sprinkled over or rubbed with a little salt, mace, and cayenne, well mixed together; the tongue may be laid upon, and rolled up in it. It must be secured, first with a skewer, and then bound tightly round with tape. It should be boiled or stewed extremely tender; and ig excellent when just covered with good stock, and simmered for a couple of hours, or when strong broth is substituted for this, and the bones are added to it. The head may be glazed, and served with rich brown gravy, or with the ordinary sauces if prepared; and it may be eaten cold, with Oxford brawn sauce, which is compounded of brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt, mixed to the taste, with the addition of oil when it is liked. CARVING. 'f xliii A paper ruffle, as will be seen, is wrapped round the bone of the knuckle. . No. 15. A PHEASANT. ; This bird is still commonly sent to table with the head on, but it is a barbarous custom which, it is hoped, may soon be alto- gether superseded by one of better taste. The breast is by far ,. the finest part of a pheasant, and it is carved in slices from pinion to pinion in the lines a a 6 b; the legs may then be taken off, in the direction ¢ d. The bird, when it is preferred so, may be entirely dismembered by the directions for a fowl, No. 16. Black and moor-game are trussed and served like pheasants. The breasts of both are very fine eating, and the thigh of the black-cock is highly esteemed. No. 16. A BOILED FOWL. The boiled fowl of plate 6 is represented as garnished with branches of parsley, which is an error, as they would be appro- Sie to it only if it were cold, and it is seldom served so, eing considered insipid. Small tufts of cauliflower would have been in better keeping with it, as the bird is supposed to be dished for the dinner-table. Unless it be for large family parties, fowls are seldom carved there entirely into joints ; but when it is wished to divide them so, the fork should be fixed firmly in the centre of the breast, and the leg, being first disengaged from the skin, may be taken off with the wing in the line a 6; or, the wing being previously removed, by carving it down the line to 6, and there separating it from the neck-bone, the leg may be released from the skin, and easily_ taken off, by cutting round it from a to ¢, and then turning it with the fork, back from the body, when the joint will readily be perceived. After the leg and wing on the other side have been taken off in the same manner, the merrythought must follow. To remove this, the knife must be drawn through the flesh in the the line d e, and then turned towards 477. the neck quite under the merrythought,- whichin é it will so lift from the breast, in this form:— “~ “S$ The neck-bones—which lie close under the upper part of the wings, and are shaped thus — must next be disengaged from the fowl, by putting \(/ the knife in at the top of the joint, dividing the xliv CARVING. long part of the bone from the flesh, and breaking the short one off by raising it up, and turning it from the gy body; the breast, which is shown iy d here, may then be divided from itWiA by merely cutting through the tender ribs on either side. | It is seldom that further disjointing than this is required at table ; but when it is necessary to cut up the entire tow, the remainder of it must be laid with the —OHOHUDH == back uppermost, and to take off the & side-bones, which are of this shape— the point of the knife must be pressed << through the back-bone, near the top, about half an inch from the centre, and brought down towards the end of the back, quite through the bone, then turned in the opposite direction, when the joints will separate without difficulty. All which then remains to be done is, to lay the edge of the knife across the middle of the only two undivided bones, and then with the fork to raise the small end of the fowl, which will part them immediately : to carve a boiled fowl or chicken in a more modern manner, see the directions which follow. The breast, wings, and merrythought, are the most delicate parts of a fowl. No. 17. A ROAST FOWL. It is not usual to carve fowls entirely at table in the manner described above. The wings, and any other joints are taken off only as they are required. ‘The breast of a very large fowl may be carved in slices like that of a turkey; or the whole of that of a small one may be taken off with the wings, as shown by the line ab. As the liver is a delicacy, the handsomer mode of serving these last is to remove the gizzard, which is seldom eaten, then to divide the liver, and to send an equal portion of it with each wing. The whole ofa roast fowl may be carved by the directions we have already given for No. 16. No. 18. A PARTRIDGE. ‘When partridges are served to ladies only, or in parties where they are present, it is now customary to take off the heads, to truss the legs short, and to make them appear (in poulterer’s hrase) all breast. For gentlemen’s dinners, the heads may be Tet on or not at choice. The most ready mode of carving a par- tridge is to press back the legs, then to fix the fork firmly in the no} * CARVING. . xiv inside of the back, and by passing the blade of the knife flat. under the lower part of the breast, to raise it, with the wings, entire from the body, from which it easily separates. The breast may then be divided in the middle, as shown by the line from a to 6 in the engraving here. Thisis_ , Ay t by far the best and handsomest manner D of carving a partridge, but when the 4 supply of game at table is small, and it is necessary to serve three persons from ~~ th the choicer parts of one bird, a not very large wing should be taken off with the leg on either side, in the line from a to 6 in No. 13, and sufficient of the breast will still remain to send to a third eater. The high game-flavour of the back of a par- tridge, as well as that of various other birds,* is greatly relished SS WSS, SA) -by many sportsmen. No. 19. A woopcock. cocks or snipes for table is this: the (=yaxc™ trussing of the legs is, however, better Yj shown at Nos. 19 and 21 of Plate 6. No. 20. A PIGEON. The breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same way as those of a partridge (see No. 18); or the bird may be _ carved entirely through in the line a 6. For the second course, pigeons should be dished upon water-cresses.f * A great man of the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as “the most pungent, palate-piercing, wild, bitter-smveet.” + We wish to rectify here an error which has escaped correction in the body of the work. Pigeons have no gall, xl vi ! CARVING. No. 21. A SNIPE. This bird is trussed, roasted, and served exactly like a wood- cock, It is not of asize to require any carving, beyond dividing in two, if at all. No. 22. A GOOSsE. ~ The skin below the breast, called the apron, must first be cut off in a circular direction as indicated by the letters a a a, when a glass of port-wine or of claret, ready mixed with a teaspoonful of mustard, may be poured into the body or not, at choice. Some of the stuffing should then be drawn out with a spoon, and the neck of the goose, which ought to be to the right and not to the left hand, as here, being turned a little towards the carver, the flesh of the breast should be sliced in the lines from bb btoc cc, on either side of the bone. The wings may then be taken off like those of any other bird, and then the legs, which, in the engraving, No. 22, are trussed so completely under the apron as to render their outline scarcely distinguish- able. Graceful and well-skilled carvers never turn birds on their sides to remove any of the joints, but those of a goose, unless it be very young, are sometimes severed from it with difficulty ; and the common directions for assisting the process in that case are, to turn it on its side, and with the fork to press down the small end of the leg ; then to pass the knife quite under it from the top down to the joint, when the leg should be turned back from the bird with the fork, while the thigh-bone is loosened from its socket with the knife. The end of the pinion marked d is then held down in the same manner, to facilitate the separation of the bones at e, from which point the knife is drawn under the wing, which it takes off. The merrythought of a goose is small, and, to remove it, the knife must first be turned a little from the neck, after the flesh has been cut through, and then passed. under it, back towards the neck. For the remainder of the carving, the directions for that of a fowl will suffice. DUCKSe Tame ducks are served with the feet (which areliked by many people) left upon them and trussed up over the backs. If large they may be carved like a goose, but when very young — may be disjointed like chickens; the only material differerice between them being the position of the thigh-joints, which lie much further towards the back-bone than those of a fowl. CARVING. xivii No. 23. A WILD DUCK. : The breasts of wild-fowl are the only parts of them held in much estimation, and these are carved in slices from the legs to the neck. The legs and pinions may, if required, be taken off exactly like those of a pheasant. No. 24. A TURKEY. The carving of a turkey commences by taking slices off the breast, from the letters b 6 quite through the forcemeat, which lies under the letter a, to cc: the greater part of the flesh of the wings is thus taken off likewise. When the bird is boned and filled with sausage or other forcemeat, the breast 1s carved entirely across in the direction de, nearly,or quite down to the back, which it is better not altogether to divide at first, as the appearance of the turkey is not then so good. When it has been prepared in the ordinary manner, after the breast has been disposed of, the pinions and the legs may be taken off, the first in the line from f'to g, and the latter by passing the knife under it at h, and bringing it down to the joint at 77 where it must be taken off in the line shown. The whole of the joints being in form exactly like those of a fowl may be separated in the same manner. ‘Lhe gizzard is more commonly eaten broiled after having been scored, and very highly seasoned with cayenne © and with a sufficiency of salt, than in any other way. A slice or portion of the liver should be served with the white flesh of the turkey as far as possible. No. 25. A HARE. A hare should be placed with its head to the left of the carver, therefore the’ engraving No. 25 shows it turned in the wrong direction. It is so very great an improvement to take out the back-bone before a hare is roasted, that we would recommend it to be done wherever it can be so without difficulty : it may then be carved in the line a 6 quite through, or only partially so at choice: When the bone remains in, slices may be taken down the whole length of the back from ¢ ¢ to dd; the legs, which, next to the back, are considered the best eating, may then be taken off in the direction e f, and the flesh divided from or served upon them, after the small bones have been parted from the thighs. The shoulders, which are not generally much esteemed, though sometimes liked by sportsmen, may next be © taken off by passing the knife at the letters g A between the xlviil CARVINCe | joint and the body. When a hare is young the back is some= times divided at the joints into three or four parts, after being freed from the ribs and under-skin. No. 27. A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. This is usually stewed, or rather braised sufficiently tender to be divided with a spoon, and requires no carving ; but the fat — (or udder-part of the fillet) attached to it, marked a a a, which is sometimes, but not invariably served with it now, may be carved in even slices. ‘The larding differs somewhat from that which we have described, but the mode shown here allows the fricandeau to be glazed with more facility. The engraving of the entrée No. 26 is intended merely to show the manner of dishing the cutlets. They may be of mutton, lamb, veal, or pork ; and the centre may be filled with the sauce or stewed vegetable appropriate to either ; as soubise, purée of asparagus, of mushrooms, or of tomatas ; or green peas a@ la Frangatse, stewed cucumbers, or aught else that is suited to the kind of meat which is served. . ee SADDLE . OF. MUTTON, aS HAUNCH OF -VEWLS ON?. ‘: gh ol SIRLOZN. OF BEEF, HAdlarad, sc is Ta QUARTER OF LAMB. SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Plate 3, “ “Ye H Adtard JC L—_. Plate 4. LO. we A Adlard, sc, SUCKING PIG, Ll Bi Puls I. OFF VE Ad ae PIR Ge Ore ON G UE 5 CALF Ss EAS 14 my HAM. Sind . Plate 6. ie we - . rm 18 L9 PHEASANT. PARTRIDGE. , WOODCOCK, BOLLED FOWL. Pei BOW ; ROAST FOWL, s E BAdtarit., sc GIO) Ss: 5 23 De WiLD Plate 6. ENTREE OF CUTLETS. a FRICANDEAU OF VEAL ~ MODERN COOKERY. CHAPTER L SOUPS. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. Tue art of preparing good, wholesome, palatable soups, without great expense, which is so well understood in France, and in other countries where they form part of the daily food of all classes of the people, has hitherto been very much neglected in England ; it is one, therefore, te which we would particularly direct the attention of the cock, who will find, we think, on a careful perusal of the present chapter, that it presents no diffi- culties which a common degree of care and skill will not easily overcome. ‘The reader, who may be desirous to excel in it, should study the instructions given under the article Bouillon, where the principles of this branch of cookery are fully ex- » plained. The spices and other condiments used to give flavour to soups and gravies should be so nicely proportioned that none predo- minate nor overpower the rest; and this delicate blending of savours is perhaps the most difficult part of a cook’s task : it is an art, moreover, not easily acquired, except by long experience, unless great attention be combined with some natural refine- ment of the palate. A zealous servant will take all possible pains on her first entrance into a family, to ascertain the particular tastes of the individuals she serves; and will be guided entirely by them in the preparation of her dishes, however much they may be opposed to her own ideas, or to her previous practice. Exceeding cleanliness, both in her personal habits and appear- ~ ance, and in every department of her work, is so essential in a - cook, that no degree of skill, nor any other good qualities which she may possess, can ever atone for the want of it.. The very idea of a dirty cook is so revolting, that few people will be B +s* 2 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I. induced to tolerate the reality ; and we would therefore most strongly urge all* employed in the culinary department of a household, who may be anxious for their own success in life, or solicitous to obtain the respectand approbation of their employers, to strive to the utmost against any tendency to slovenliness of which they may be conscious, or which may be pointed out to them by others. Modern Copper Stock-Pot, A FEW DIRECTIONS TO THE COOK. In whatever vessel soup is boiled, see that it be perfectly clean, and let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally so. Wash the meat, and prepare the vegetables with great nicety before they are laid into it; and be careful to keep it always closely shut when it is on the fire. Never, on any account, set the soup by in it, but strain it off at once into a clean pan, and fill the stock-pot immediately with water: pur- sue the same plan with all stewpans and saucepans directly they are emptied. Skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil, or it can never afterwards be rendered clear; throw in some salt, which will assist to bring the scum to the surface, and when it has all been taken off, add the herbs and vegetables; for if not long stewed in the soup, their flavour will prevail too strongly. Remember, that the trimmings, and especially the bones of fresh meat, the necks of poultry, the liquor in which a joint has been boiled, and the shank-bones of mutton, are all excel- lent additions to the stock-pot, and should be carefully reserved for it. | * An active, cleanly, and attentive kitchen-maid will generally become an admirable cook. CHAP. J. | SOUPS. 3 Let the soup heat gradually over a moderate fire, and after it has been well skimmed, draw it to the side of the stove and keep it semmering softly, but without ceasing, until it is done; for on this, as will hereafter be shown, its excellence principally depends. Every good cook understands perfectly the difference produced by the fast boiling, or the gentle stewing of soups and gravies, and will adhere strictly to the latter method. Pour boiling water, in small quantities at first, to the meat and vegetables of which the soup is to be made when they have _been fried or browned; but otherwise, add cold water to the meat. Unless precise orders to the contrary have been given, onions, eschalots, and garlic, should be used for seasoning with great moderation always; fur not only are they very offensive to many eaters, but to persons of delicate habit, their effects are sometimes extremely prejudicial; and it is only in coarse cookery that their flavour is allowed ever strongly to prevail. A small proportion of sugar, about an ounce to the gallon, will very much improve the flavour of gravy-stock, and of all rich brown soups; it may be added also to some others with advan- tage ; and for this, directions will be given in the proper places. Two ounces of salt may be allowed for each gallon of soup or broth in which large quantities of vegetables are stewed ; but an ounce and a half will be sufficient for such as contain few or none ; it is always easy to add more if needful, but oversalting in the first instance is a fault for which there is no remedy but that of increasing the proportions of all the other ingredients, and stewing the whole afresh, which occasions needless trouble and expense, even when time will admit of its being done. As no particle of fat should be seen floating on your soups when they are sent to table, it is desirable that the stock should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may become quite cold, when the fat may be entirely cleared off without difficulty. When cayenne pepper is not mixed with rice-flour, or with any other thickening, grind it down with the back of a spoon, and stir a little liquid to it before it is thrown into the stewpan, as it is apt to remain in lumps, and to occasion great irritation of the throat when swallowed so. Serve, not only soups and sauces, but all your dishes as hot as possible. TO THICKEN SOUPS. Except for white soups, to which arrow-root is, we think, more appropriate, we prefer, to all other ingredients generally 4 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. 1 used for this purpose, the finest and freshest rice-flour, which after being passed through a lawn-sieve, should be thoroughly blended with the salt, pounded spices, catsup, or wine, required to finish the flavouring of the soup. Sufficient liquid should be added to it very gradually to render it of the consistency of batter, and it should also be perfectly smooth ; to keep it so, it should be moistened sparingly at first, and beaten with the bagk of a spoon until every lump has disappeared. The soup should boil quickly when the thickening is stirred into it, and be simmered for ten minutes afterwards. From an ounce and a half to two ounces of rice-flour will thicken sufficiently a quart of soup. ropes of this, arrow-root or the condiment known by the name of tous les mots, which greatly resembles it, or potato- flour, or the French thickening called rowx (see page 96) may be used in the following proportions :—Two and a half ounces of either of the first three, to four pints and a half of soup; to be mixed gradually with a little cold stock or water, stirred into the boiling soup, and simmered for a minute. Six ounces of flour with seven of butter,* will be required to thicken a tureen of soup; as much as half a pound is sometimes used ; these must be added by degrees, and carefully stirred round in the soup until smoothly blended with it, or they will remain in lumps. : : All the ingredients used for soups should be fresh, and of good quality, particularly Italian pastes of every kind (macca- roni, vermicelli, &c.), as they contract, by long keeping, a peculiarly unpleasant, musty flavour. Onions, freed from the outer skin, dried gradually to a deep brown, in a slow oven, and flattened like Norfolk biffins, will keep for almost any length of time, and are extremely useful for heightening the colour and flavour of broths and gravies.t TO FRY BREAD TO SERVE WITH SOUP. Cut some slices a quarter-inch thick, from a stale loaf; pare off the crust, and divide the bread into dice, or cut it with a deep paste-cutter into any other form. For half a pound of bread put two ounces of the best butter into a frying-pan, and when it is quite melted, add the bread; keep it turned, over a * We would recommend any other thickening in preference to this unwhcle- some mixture. : + The fourth part of one of these dried onions (des ognons britlés), of moderate size, is sufficient for a tureen of soup. They are sold very commonly in France, and may he procured, we should suppose, without difficulty in London, at the foreign warehouses. CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 5 gentle fire, until it is equally coloured to a very pale brown, then drain it from the butter, and dry it on a soft cloth, or a sheet of paper placed before a clear fire, upon a dish, or on a sieve reversed. SIPPETS A LA REINE. . Having cut the bread as for common sippets, spread it on a dish, and pour over it a few spoonsful of thin cream, or of good “milk; let it soak for an hour, then fry it in fresh butter of a delicate brown, drain, and serve the sippets hot. TO MAKE NOUILLES ; (An elegant substitute for Vermicellt.) Wet, with the yolks of four eggs, as much fine, dry, sifted flour as will make them into a firm but very smooth paste. Roll it out as thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an inch and a quarter in width. Dust them lightly with flour, and place four of them one upon the other. Cut them obliquely in the finest possible strips; separate them with the point of a knife, and spread them on writing paper, so that they may dry a little before they are used. Drop them gradually into the boiling soup, and in ten minutes they will be done. Various other forms may be given to this paste at will. It may be divided into a sort of riband maccaroni; or stamped with small confectionary cutters into different shapes. VEGETABLE VERMICELLI. (Vegetables cut very fine for Soups.) Cut the carrots into inch-lengths, then pare them round and round in ribbons of equal thickness, till the inside is reached ; next cut these ribands into straws, or very small strips; celery is prepared in the same way, and turnips also are first pared into ribands, then sliced into strips: these last require less boiling than the carrots, and attention must be paid to this, for if broken, the whole would have a bad appearance in soup. The safer plan is to boil each vegetable separately, till tolerably . tender, in a little pale broth (in water if this be not at hand), to drain them well, and put them into the soup, which should be clear, only a few minutes before it is dished. For cutting them small, in-other forms, the proper instruments will be found at the ironmonger’s. 6 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap. I. BOUILLON. (The Common Soup of France ; cheap, and very wholesome.) This soup, or broth, as we should perhaps designate it in England, is made once or twice in the week, in every family of respectability in France; and by the poorer classes as often as their means will enable them to substi- tute it for the vegetable or mazgre soups, on which they are more commonly obliged to subsist. It is served usually on the first day, ==— with slices of untoasted bread ee SS IES, j= soaked in it; on the second, it is Cs generally varied with vermicelli, French Pot-au-Few ; or, Earthen rice, or semoulina. The ingre- Soup Pot. dients are, of course, often other- wise proportioned than as we have given them, and more or less meat is allowed, according to the taste or circumstances of the persons for whom the bouillon is prepared; but the process of making it is always the same, and is thus described (rather learnedly) by one of the most skilful cooks in Europe: “The stock-pot of the French artisan,’ says Monsieur Caréme, “supplies his principal nourishment ; and it is thus managed by his wife, who, without the slightest knowledge of chemistry, conducts the process in a truly scientific manner. She first lays the meat into her earthen stock-pot, and pours cold water to it in the proportion of about two quarts to three pounds of the beef;* she then places it by the side of the fire, where it slowly becomes hot; and as it does so, the heat enlarges the fibre of the meat, dissolves the gelatinous substances which it contains, allows the albumen (or the muscular part which produces the scum) to disengage itself, and rise to the surface, and the osmazomE (which is the most savoury part of the meat) to be diffused through the broth. Thus, from the simple circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner, a relishing and nutritious soup will be obtained, and a dish of tender and palatable meat ; but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick fire, the albumen will coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the water from penetrating it, and the osmazome from disengaging * This is a large proportion of meat for the family of a French artisan ; a pound to the quart would be nearer the reality; but it is not the refuse-meat which would be purchased by persons of the same rank in England for making broth. & CHAP. I. | | SOUPS. 2 itself; the result will be a broth without flavour or goodness, and a tough, dry bit of meat.” It must be observed in addition, that as the meat of which the bouallon is made, is almost invariably sent to table, a part of the rump, the mouse-buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef, should be selected for it ; and the simmering should be continued only until this is perfectly tender. When the object is simply to make good, pure-flavoured beef broth, part of the shin, or leg, with a pound or two of the neck, will best answer the purpose. When the boulli (that is to say, the beef which is boiled in the soup), is to be served, bind it intoa good shape, add to it a calf’s foot, if easily procurable, as this much improves the quality of the bouillon, pour cold water to it in the proportion mentioned above, and proceed, as Monsieur Caréme directs, to heat the soup slowly by the side of the fire; remove carefully the head of scum, which will gather on the surface, before the boiling com- mences, and continue the skimming at intervals, for about twenty minutes longer, pouring in once or twice a little cold water. Next, add salt in the proportion of two ounces to the’ gallon ; this will cause a little more scum to rise,—clear it quite off, and throw in three or four turnips, as many carrots, half a head of celery, four or five young leeks, an onion stuck with six or eight cloves, a large half-teaspoonful of pepper-corns, and a. bunch of savoury herbs. Let the whole stew verry softly, without ceasing, from four hours and a half to six hours, according to the quantity: the beef in that time will be extremely tender, but not overdone. It will be excellent eating, if properly managed, and might often, we think, be substituted with great advantage for the hard, half-boiled, salted beef so - often seen at an English table. It should be served with a couple of cabbages, which have been first boiled in the usual way, then pressed very dry, and stewed for about ten minutes in a little of the broth, and seasoned with pepper and salt. The other vegetables from the bouillon may be laid round it or not, at choice. The soup, if served on the same day, must be strained, well cleared from fat, and sent to table with fried or toasted bread, unless the Continental mode of putting slices or crusts of untoasted bread into the tureen, and soaking them for ten minutes in a ladleful or two of the bouillon, be, from custom, preferred. Beef, 8 to 9 Ibs.; water, 6 quarts; salt, 3 ozs. (more if needed) ; carrots, 4 to 6; turnips, 4 or 5; celery, one small head ; leeks, 4 to 6; one onion, stuck with 6 cloves; pepper- ai >» 3 8 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. 1. corns, one small teaspoonful ; large bunch of savoury herbs: (calf’s foot if convenient) to semmer 5 to 6 hours. Obs. 1.—This broth forms in France the foundation of all richer soups and gravies. Poured on fresh meat (a portion of which should be veal) instead of water, it makes at once an excellent consommée, or strong jellied stock. If properly man- aged, it is very clear and pale; and with an additional weight of beef, and some spoonsful of glaze, may easily be converted into an amber-coloured gravy-soup, suited to modern taste. ~ Obs. 2.--It is a common practice abroad to boil poultry, pigeons, and even game, in the pot-au-feu, or soup-pot. They should be properly trussed, stewed in the broth just long enough to render them tender, and served immediately, when ready, with a good sauce. A small ham, if well soaked, washed ex- ceedingly clean, and freed entirely from any rusty, or blackened parts, laid with the beef when the water is first added to it, and boiled from three hours and a half to four hours, in the bouillon, is very superior in flavour to those cooked in water only, and infinitely improves the soup, which cannot, however, so well be‘eaten until the following day, when all the fat can easily be taken from it: it would, of course, require no salt. CLEAR, PALE, GRAVY-SOUP OR STOCK. Rub a deep stewpan or soup-pot with butter, and lay into it three quarters of a pound of ham freed entirely from fat, skin, and rust, four pounds of leg or neck of veal, and the same weight of lean.beef all cut into thick slices; set it over a clear and rather brisk fire, until the meat is of a fine amber-colour : it must be often moved, and closely watched, that it may not stick to the pan, nor burn. When itsis equally browned, lay the bones upon it, and pour in gradually four quarts of boiling water. ‘Take off the scum carefully as it rises, and throw in a pint of cold water. at intervals, to bring it quickly to the surface. When no more appears, add two ounces of salt, two onions, two large carrots, two turnips, one head of celery, a two-ounce faggot. of savoury herbs, a dozen cloves, half a teaspoonful of whole white pepper, and two large blades of mace. Let the soup boil gently from five hours and a half, to six hours and a half; then strain it through a very clean, fine cloth, laid ina hair sieve. When it is perfectly cold, remove every particle of fat from the top; and, in taking out the soup, leave the sediment untouched; heat in a clean pan the quantity required for table, add salt to it if needed, and a few drops of Chili or of cayenne vinegar. Harvey's sauce, or very fine ‘ma | i : : * CHAP. 1.| _ SOUPS. 9 / e mushroom catsup, may be substituted for these. When thus prepared, the soup is ready to serve: it should be accompanied by pale sippets of fried bread, or sippets @ la reine. Rice, maccaroni in lengths or rings, vermicelli, or nouilles, may in turn be used to vary it; but they must always be boiled apart till tender, in broth, or water, and well drained before they are slipped into it. The addition of young vegetables, too, and especially of asparagus, will convert it into an elegant spring- soup; but they, likewise, must be separately cooked. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR GRAVY-SOUP. Instead of browning the meat in its own juices, put it with the onions and carrots, into a deep stewpan, with a quarter-pint of bouillon ; set it over a brisk fire at first, and when the broth is somewhat reduced, let iteboil gently until it has taken a fine colour and forms a glaze (or jelly) at the botton of the stew- pan ; then pour to it the proper quantity of water, and finish the soup by the preceding receipt.* Obs.—A rich, old-fashioned English brown gravy-soup may be made with beef only. It should be cut from the bones, dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried a clear brown; then stewed for six hours, if the quantity be large, with a pint of water to each pound of meat, and vege- tables as above, except onions, of which four moderate-sized ones, also fried, are to be added to every three quarts of the soup, which, after it has been strained, and cleared from fat, may be thickened with six ounces of fresh butter,,worked up very smoothly with five of flour. In twenty minutes afterwards, a tablespoonful of the best soy, half}a pint of sherry, and a little cayenne may be added to the soup, which will then be ready to serve. CHEAP, CLEAR GRAVY-Soup-*™ ge: the The shin or leg of beef, if not large or coarse, will answer * The juices of meat, drawn out with a small portion of liquid, as directed here, may easily be reduced to the consistency in which they form what is called glaze ; for particulars of this, see Chapter III. The best method, though perhaps not the easiest, of making the clear, amber-coloured stock, is to pour a ladleful or two of pale, but strong beef-broth to the veal, and to boil it briskly until well reduced, thrusting a knife, when this is done, into the meat, to let the juices escape; then to proceed more slowly and cautiously as the liquid approaches the state in which it would burn. It must be allowed to take a dark amber-colour only, and the meat must be turned, and often moved in it. When the desired point is reached, pour in more boiling broth, and let the pan remain off the fire for a few minutes, to detach and melt the glaze; then shake it wveli round before the boiling is continued. A certain quantity of deeply coloured glaze, made apart, and stirred into strong, clear, pale stock, would produce the desired etiect of this, with much less trouble. : a 10 . MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, I. extremely well for this soup, and afford at the same time a highly economical dish of boiled meat, which will be found very tender, and very palatable also, if it be served with a sauce of some piquancy. From about ten pounds of the meat let the butcher cut evenly off five or six from the thick fleshy part, and again divide the knuckle, that the whole may lie compactly in the vessel in which it is to be stewed. Pour in three quarts of cold water, and when it has been brought slowly to boil, and been well skimmed, as directed for bowzllon (page 6), throw in an ounce and a half of salt, half a large teaspoonful of pepper-corns, eight -cloves, two blades of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, a couple of small carrots, and the heart of a root of celery: to these add a mild onion or not, at choice. When the whole has stewed very softly for four hours, probe the larger bit of beef, and if quite tender, lift it out for table ; let the soup be simmered from two to three hours longer, and then strain it through a fine sieve, into a clean pan. When it is perfectly cold, clear off every particle of fat ; heat a couple of quarts, stir in, when it boils, half an ounce of sugar, a small tablespoonful of good soy, and twice as much of Harvey’s sauce, or should this not be at hand, of clear and fine mushroom catsup. If carefully made, the soup will be perfectly trans- parent and of good colour and flavour. A thick slice of lean ham will improve it, and a pound or so of the neck of beef with an additional pint of water, will likewise enrich its quality. A small quantity of good broth may be made of the fragments of the whole boiled down with a few fresh vegetables. Brown caper, or hot horse-radish sauce, or sauce Robert, or sauce piquante, made with the liquor in which it is boiled, may be served with the portion of the meat which is sent to table. VERMICELLI SOUP. (Potage au Vermicelle.) Drop very lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of vermicelli, broken rather small, into three quarts of boiling bouillon, or clear gravy soup ; let it simmer for half an hour* over a gentle fire, and stir it often. This is the common French mode of making vermicelli soup, and we can recommend it as a particu- larly good one for family use. In England it is customary to soak, or to blanch the vermicelli, then to drain it well, and te * When of very fine quality, the vermicelli will usually require less boiling than this. We have named to the reader, in another part of the volume, Mr. Cob- bett, 18, Pall Mall, as supplying all the Italian pastes extremely good. A CHAP. 1.] SOUPS, 11 stew it for a shorter time in the soup ; the quantity, also, must be reduced quite two ounces, to suit modern taste. | Bouillon, or gravy-soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 6 ozs.; 30 - minutes. Or, soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 4 ozs.; blanched in boiling water 5 minutes ; stewed in soup 10 to 15 minutes. SEMOULINA SOUP. (Soupe a la Sémoule.) Semoulina is used in the same way as the vermicelli. It should be dropped very lightly and by degrees into the boiling soup, which should be stirred all the time it is being added, and very frequently afterwards ; indeed, it should scarcely be quitted for a moment until it is ready for table. Skim it carefully, and let it simmer from twenty to five and twenty minutes. This, - when the semoulina can be procured good and fresh, is, to our taste, an excellent Soup, 3 quarts; semoulina 6 ozs.: nearly, or quite 25 minutes. MACCARONI. SOUP. Throw four ounces of fine fresh* mellow maccaroni into a pan of fast-boiling water, with about an ounce of fresh butter, and a small onion stuck with three or four cloves.— When it has swelled to its full size, and become tender, drain it well, and slip it into a couple of quarts of clear gravy-soup; let it simmer for a few minutes, when it will be ready for table. Observe, that the maccaroni should be boiled quite tender; but it should by no means be allowed to burst, nor to become pulpy. Serve grated Parmesan cheese with it. Maccaroni, 4 ozs.; butter, 1 oz.; 1 small onion; 5 cloves: = hour, or more. In soup, 5 to 10 minutes. Obs.—The_ maccaroni for soups should always be either broken into short lengths before it is boiled, or sliced quickly afterwards into small rings not more than the sixth of an inch thick, unless the cu¢ maccaroni, which may be purchased at the Italian warehouses, be used; this requires but ten minutes’ boiling, and should be dropped into the soup in the same way as vermicelli. Four ounces of it will be sufficient for two quarts of stock. It may be added to white soup after having been pre- viously boiled in water or veal-broth, and well drained from it: * We must here repeat our warning against the use of long-kept maccaroni, vermicelli, or semoulina; as, when stale, they will render any dish into which they are introduced quite unfit for table. + For White Soups omit the onion. 12 MODERN COOKERY. : [CHAP. I. it has a rather elegant appearance in clear gravy-soup, - but should have a boil in water before it is thrown into it. POTAGE AUX NOUILLES, OR TAILLERINE SOUP. Make into nouille-paste the yolks of four fresh eggs, and when ready cut, drop it gradually into five pints of boiling soup ; keep this gently stirred for ten minutes, skim it well, and serve it quickly. This is a less common, and a more delicately fla- voured soup than the vermicelli, provided always that the nouilles be made with really fresh eggs. The same paste may be cut into very small diamonds, squares, stars, or any other form, then left to dry a little, and boiled in the soup until swelled to its full size, and tender. Nouille-paste of four eggs; soup, 5 pints: 10 minutes. SAGO SOUP. Wash in several waters, and float off the dirt from six ounces of sago; put it into three quarts of good cold gravy-stock; let it stew gently from half to three quarters of an hour, and stir it occasionally, that it may not burn nor stick to the stewpan. A quarter-ounce more of sago to each pint of liquid, will thicken it to the consistency of peas-soup. It may be flavoured with half a wineglassful of Harvey’s sauce, as much cayenne as it may need, the juice of half a lemon, an ounce of sugar, and two glasses of sherry; or these may be omitted, and good beef-broth may be substituted for the gravy-soup, for a simple family dinner, or for an invalid. Sago, 6 ozs.; soup, 3 quarts: 30 to 45 minutes. TAPIOCA SOUP. This is made in the same manner, and with the same propor- tions as the preceding soup, but it must be simmered from fifty to sixty minutes. RICE SOUP. In France this soup is served well thickened with the rice, which is stewed in it for upwards of an hour and a half, and makes thus, even with the common bouillon of the country, an excellent winter potage. Pick, and wipe in a dry cloth, eight ounces of the best rice; add it, in small portions, to four. quarts of hot soup, of which the boiling should not be checked as it is thrown in. When a clear soup is wanted, wash the rice, give it five minutes’ boil in water, drain it well, throw it into as much boiling stock or well-flavoured broth as will keep it covered till CHAP. 1. | SOUPS. 13 done, and simmer it very softly until the grains are tender, but still separate ; drain it, slip it into the soup, and let it remain in it a few minutes before it is served, but without simmering. When stewed in the stock, it may be put at once, after being drained, into the tureen, and the clear gravy-soup may be poured to it. An easy English mode of making rice-soup is this: put the rice into plenty of cold water; when it boils, throw in a small quantity of salt, let it simmer ten minutes, drain it well, throw it into the boiling soup, and simmer it gently from ten to fifteen minutes longer; some rice will be tender in half that time. An extra quantity of stock must be allowed for the reducticn of this soup, which is always considerable. WHITE RICE SOUP. Throw four ounces of well-washed rice into boiling water, and in five minutes after pour it into a sieve, drain it well, and put it into a couple of quarts of good white, boiling stock; let it stew till tender; season the soup with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace; stir to it three quarters of a pint of very rich cream, give it one boil, and serve it quickly. Rice, 4 ozs.: boiled 5 minutes. Soup, 2 quarts: 2 hour or more. Seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne ; cream, ¢ pint: 1 minute. \ RICE-FLOUR SOUP. Mix with a little cold broth, eight ounces of fine rice-flour, and pour it into a couple of quarts of fast-boiling broth or gravy soup. Add to it mace, and cayenne, with a little salt if needful. It will require but ten minutes’ boiling. Soup, 2 quarts; rice-flour, 8 ozs.: 10 minutes. Obs.—-T wo dessertspoonsful of currie-powder, and the strained juice of half a moderate-sized lemon will greatly improve this soup : it may also be converted into a good common white soup, Gf it be made of veal stock), by the addition of three-quarters of a pint of thick cream to the rice. STOCK FOR WHITE SOUP. Though a knuckle of veal is usually preferred for this stock, part of the neck will, on an emergency, answer very well. Whichever joint be chosen, let it be thoroughly washed, once or twice divided, and laid into a delicately clean soup-pot, or well- tinned large stout iron saucepan, upon a pound of lean ham, freed entirely from skin and fat, and cut into thick slices. 14 MODERN COOKERY. [oaar. 1. Should very rich soup be wished for, pour in a pint only of cold water for each pound of meat, but otherwise a pint and a half may be allowed. When the soup has been thoroughly cleared __ from scum, which should be carefully taken off, from the time of its first’ beginning to boil, throw in an ounce of salt to the gallon (more can be added afterwards if needed), two mild onions, a moderate-sized head of celery, two carrots, a small teaspoonful of whole white pepper, and two blades of mace ; and let the soup stew very softly from five to six hours, if the quantity be large: it should simmer until the meat falls from the bones. The skin of a calf’s head, a calf’s foot, or an old fowl may always be added to this stock with good effect. Strain it into a clean deep pan, and keep it in a cool place till wanted for use. Lean ham, 1 Ib.; veal, 7 Ibs.; water, 4 to 6 quarts; salt, 13 oz. (more if needed); onions, 2; celery, 1 head ; carrots, 2; pepper-corns, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 2 blades: 5 to 6 hours. MUTTON-STOCK FOR SOUPS. Equal parts of beef and mutton, with the addition of a small portion of ham, or of very lean bacon, make excellent stock, especially for winter-soups. ‘The necks of fowls, the bones of an undressed calf’s head, or of any uncooked joint may be added to it with advantage. According to the quality of soup desired, pour from a pint to a pint and a half of cold water to each pound of meat; and after the liquor has been well skim- med on its beginning to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt to the gallon, two small heads of celery, three mild, middling-sized onions, three well-flavoured turnips, -as many carrots, a faggot of thyme and parsley, half a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, twelve cloves, and a large blade of mace. Draw the soup-pot to the side of the fire, and boil the stock as gently as possible for about six hours; then strain, and set it by for use. Be particu- larly careful to clear it entirely from fat before it is prepared for table. One third of beef or veal, with two of mutton, will make very good soup; or mutton only will answer the purpose quite well upon occasion. Beef, 4 Ibs. ; mutton, 4 Ibs. ; (or, beef or veal from 2 to 3 Ibs. ; mutton from 5 to 6 Ibs.;) water, 1 to'1} gallon; salt, 13 oz.; mildturnips, 1 1b. ; onions, 6 ozs.; carrots, 3 lb.; celery, 6 to 8 ozs.; 1 bunch of herbs; peppercorns, 4 teaspoonful; cloves, 12; mace, 1 large blade: 6 hours. Oés.—Salt should be used sparingly at first for stock in which CHAP. I.] . SOUPS. 15 any portion of ham is boiled ; allowance should also be made for its reduction, in case of its being required for gravy. THE LORD MAYOR'S SOUP. Wash thoroughly two sets of moderate-sized pigs’ ears and _ feet, from which the hair has been carefully removed ; add to them five quarts of cold water, and stew them very gently, with a faggot of savoury herbs, and one large onion stuck with a a dozen cloves, for nearly four hours, when the ears may be lifted out ; stew the feet for another hour, then take them up, strain the soup, and set it in a cool place that it may become cold enough for the fat to be quite cleared from it. Next, bone the ears and feet, cut the flesh down into dice, throw a clean folded cloth over it, and leave it so until the soup requires to be prepared for table; then strew upon it two tablespoonsful of savoury herbs minced small, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a little white pepper, and some salt. Put into a large saucepan half a pound of good butter, and when it begins to simmer thicken it gradually with as much flour as it will absorb; keep these stirred over a very gentle fire for ten minutes or more, but do not allow them to take the slightest colour ; pour the soup to’ them by degrees, letting it boil up after each portion is added; put in the meat, and half a pint of sherry, simmer the whole from three to five minutes ; dish the soup, and slip into it two or three dozens of delicately fried forcemeat-balls. (See Chapter VI.) Pigs’ feet, 8; ears, 4; water, 5 quarts ; bunch savoury herbs ; 1 large onion; cloves, 12: 33 to 4 hours, feet, 1 hour more. Butter, 3 lb; flour, 6 ozs.*: 10 to 12 minutes. Minced herbs, 2 tablespoonsful; cayenne and common pepper, each 3} salt- spoonful ; salt, } teaspoonful or more; sherry, 4 pint: 3 to 5 minutes. Forcemeat-balls, 2 to 3 dozens. Obs.— We have given this receipt with the slightest possible variation from the original, which we derived from a neighbour- hood where the soup made -by it was extremely popular. We have better adapted it to our own taste by the following altera- tions. THE LORD MAYOR'S SOUP. (Author’s Receipt.) We prefer to have'this soup made, in part, the evening before it is wanted, Add the same proportion of water to the ears and 3 *, * The safer plan for an inexperienced cook, is to weigh the flour, and then te sprinkle it from a dredging-box into the butter. 16. MODERN COOKERY. [owar. 1, feet as in the preceding directions; skim it thoroughly when it first boils, and throw in a tablespoonful of salt, two onions of moderate size, a small head of celery, a bunch of herbs, two whole carrots, a small teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and a blade of mace. Stew these softly until the ears and feet are pereeeuly tender, and after they are lifted out, let the ligour be © ept just simmering only, while they are being boned, that it may not be too much reduced. Put the bones back into it, and stew them as gently as possible for an hour; then strain the soup into a clean pan, and set it by till the morrow in a cool place. ‘The flesh should be cut into dice while it is still warm, and covered with the cloth before it becomes quite cold. To prepare the soup for table, clear the stock from fat and sediment, put it into a very clean stewpan, or deep, well-tinned saucepan, and stir to it, when it boils, six ounces of the finest rice-flour smoothly mixed with a quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne, three times as much of mace, and salt, the strained juice of a lemon, three tablespoonsful of Harvey’s sauce, and half a pint of good sherry or Madeira. Simmer the whole for six or eight minutes, add more salt if needful, stir the soup often, and skim it tho- roughly ; put in the meat, and herbs, and after they have boiled gently for five minutes, dish the soup, add forcemeat and egg- balls or not, at pleasure, and send it to table quickly. Moderate-sized pigs’ feet, 8 ; ears, 4; water, 5 quarts; salt, 1 tablespoonful ; onions, 2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 2; bunch of herbs; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful; mace, 1 blade: 34 to 4} hours. Stock, 5 pints; rice-flour, 6 ozs.; cayenne, 4+ teaspoonful; mace and salt, each $ of a teaspoonful; juice of 1 lemon; Harvey’s sauce, 3 tablespoonsful; sherry or Madeira, 4 pint: 6 to 8 minutes. Savoury herbs, 2 tablespoonsful: 5 minutes. Obs. 1.—Should the quantity of stock exceed five pints, an additional ounce or more of rice must be used, and the flavouring be altogether increased in proportion. Of the minced herbs, two-thirds should be parsley, and the remainder equal parts of lemon thyme and winter savoury, unless sweet basil should be at hand, when a teaspoonful of it should be substituted for half of the parsley. ‘I’o some tastes a seasoning of sage would be acceptable; and a slice or two of lean ham will much improve the flavour of the soup. | Obs. 2.—Both this soup, and the preceding one, may be rendered very rich by substituting strong Coudlon (see page 6) or good veal broth for water, in making them. Me cHAP. I.| SOUPS. 1 COCOA-NUT SOUP. Pare the dark rind from a very fresh cocoa-nut, and grate it fine on an exceedingly clean, bright grater; weigh it, and allow two ounces for each quart of soup. Simmer it gently for one hour in the stock, which should then be strained and thickened for table. ‘This nut imparts a remarkably fine flavour to any kind of soup or broth, and it is considerably heightened by browning it with a morsel of fresh butter to a fine amber- colour, in a thick stewpan or saucepan, over a slow fire, before the soup is poured to it. It must be stirred constantly, and the greatest care should be taken that no single particle be burned. An ounce of butter will be sufficient for a quarter-pound of the nut, which should be added as soon as the butter is just dissolved. Veal stock, gravy-soup, or broth, 5 pints; grated cocoa-nut, 5 ozs.: 1 hour. Flour of rice, 5 ozs.; mace, 3 teaspoonful; little cayenne and salt ; mixed with } pint cream, if at hand: 10 minutes. For brown soup: butter, 14 0z.; cocoa-nut, 5 ozs.: 5 to 10 minutes. Gravy-soup, or good beef-broth, 5 pints: 1 hour. Rice flour, 5 ozs.; soy and lemon-juice, each 1 tablespoonful ; sugar pounded fine, 1 oz. ; cayenne, } teaspoonful; sherry, 2 glasses. ~ Obs.—When either cream or wine is objected to for these soups, a half-pint of the stock should be reserved to mix the thickening with. : | * CHESTNUT SOUP. Strip the outer rind from some fine, sound Spanish chestnuts, throw them into a large pan of warm water, and as soon as it becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it, take it from the fire, lift out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and throw them into cold water as they are done; wipe, and weigh them; take three quarters of a pound for each quart of soup, cover them with good gravy-stock, and stew them gently for upwards of three quarters of an hour, or until they break when touched with a fork; drain, and pound them smoothly, or bruise them to a mash with a strong spoon, and press them through a fine sieve reversed; mix with them by slow degrees, the proper quantity of stock, add sufficient mace, cayenne, and salt, to season the soup, and stir it often until it boils. Three quarters of a pint of rich cream will greatly improve it. The stock in << 18 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when its sweetness is not objected to; or it may in part be added to it. Chestnuts, 13 lb.: stewed from 2 to 1 hour. Soup, 2 quarts; seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne: 1 to 3 minutes. Cream, ? pint (when used). JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, OR PALESTINE SOUP, Wash and pare quickly some freshly-dug artichokes, and to preserve their colour, throw them into spring-water as they are done, but do not let them remain in it after all are ready. Boil three pounds of them in water for ten minutes; lift them out, and slice them into three pints of boiling stock; when they have stewed gently in this from fifteen to twenty minutes, press them, with the soup, through a fine sieve, and put the whole into a clean saucepan with a pint and a half more of stock ; add suffi- cient salt and cayenne to season it, skim it well, and after it has simmered two or three minutes, stir it to a pint of rich boiling cream. Serve it immediately. ¢* Artichokes, 3 lbs. boiled in water: 10 minutes. Veal stock, 3 pints: 15 to 20 minutes. Additional stock, 14 pint; little cayenne and salt: 2 to 3 minutes. Boiling cream, | pint. Obs.—The palest veal stock, as for white soup, should be used for this; but for a family dinner, or where economy is a consi- deration, excellent mutton-broth, made the day before, and per- fectly cleared from fat, will answer very well as a substitute; — milk, too, may in part take the place of cream, when this last is scarce: the proportion of artichokes should then be increased a little. Vegetable-marrow, when young, makes a superior sdup even to this, which is a most excellent one. It should be well pared, trimmed, and sliced into a small quantity of boiling veal stock, or broth, and when perfectly tender, pressed through a fine sieve, and mixed with more stock, and some cream. In France, the marrow is stewed first in butter, with a large mild onion or two, also sliced; and afterwards in a quart or more of water, .which is poured gradually to it; it is next passed through a tammy,* seasoned with pepper and salt, and mixed with a pint or two of milk, and a little cream. COMMON CARROT SOUP. The easiest way of making this soup is to boil some carrots very tender in water slightly salted; then to pound them * Derived from the French tamis, which means a sieve or strainer. CHAP. I. ] | SOUPS. 19 extremely fine, and to mix gradually with them boiling gravy- , soup (or bouillon) in the proportion of a quart to twelve ounces ~ of the carrot. The soup should then be passed through a strainer, seasoned with salt and cayenne, and served very hot, __ with fried bread in a separate dish. If only the red outsides of the carrot be used, the colour of the soup will be very bright : they should be weighed after they are pounded. Turnip soup may also be made in the same manner. Soup, 2 quarts; pounded carrot, 1} lb.; salt, cayenne: 5 minutes. A FINER CARROT SOUP. Scrape very clean, and cut away any blemishes from some highly-flavoured red carrots; wash, and wipe them dry. Cut them in quarter-inch slices. Put into a large stewpan three ounces of the best butter, and when it is melted, add two pounds of the sliced carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour with- out browning; pour to them then four pints and a half of brown gravy-soup, and when they have simmered from fifty minutes to an hour, they ought to be sufficiently tender. Press them through a sieve or strainer with the soup ; add salt, and cayenne if required ; boil the whole gently for five minutes, take off all the scum, and serve the soup as hot as possible. Send it to table with a dish of bread, cut in dice, and fried. Butter 3 ozs.; carrots 2 lbs.: 1 hour. Soup 43 pints: 50 to 60 minutes. Salt, cayenne: 5 minutes. Obs.—Three ounces of Scotch, or of pearl barley, soaked for one night, and stewed slowly the next day for an hour and a half, ina quart of broth, then mixed with common carrot soup, will make what is considered, by many persons, an excellent potage. A fashionable variety of this soup is also made by diminishing a little the quantity of carrots, and adding to it three ounces of rice previously swelled in broth till tender. COMMON TURNIP SOUP. Wash and wipe the turnips, pare and weigh them; allow a pound and a half for every quart of soup. Cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick. Melt four ounces of butter in a clean stewpan, and put in the turnips before it begins to boil; stew them gently for three quarters of an hour, taking care that they shall not brown. Then have the proper quantity of soup ready boiling, pour it to them, and let them simmer in it for three quarters of an hour. Pulp the whole through a 20 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, I. _. coarse sieve or soup-strainer, put it again on the fire, keep it stirred until it has boiled three minutes, take off the scum, add salt and peppet, if required, and serve it very hot. Turnips 3 lbs.; butter 4 ozs.: ? hour. Soup 2 quarts: 2 hour. Last time: 3 minutes. ’ % ‘Pare and slice into three pints of veal or mutton stock, or of good broth, three pounds of young mild turnips; stew them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they can be reduced quite to pulp; press the whole through a sieve, add to it another quart of stock, a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and one lump of sugar; simmer it a minute or two, skim and serve it. A large white onion, when the flavour is liked, may be sliced and stewed with the turnips. A little cream improves much the colour of this soup. Turnips, 3 Ibs.; soup, 5 pints: 25 to 30 minutes. A QUICKLY MADE TURNIP SOUP. POTATO SOUP. Mash to a smooth paste three pounds of good mealy potatoes, which have beeh steamed, or boiled very dry; mix with them by degrees, two quarts of boiling broth, pass the soup through a strainer, set it again on the fire, add pepper and salt, and let it boil five minutes. Take off entirely the black scum that will - rise upon it, and serve it very hot with fried or toasted bread. Where the flavour is approved, two ounces of onions, minced and fried a light brown, may be added to the soup, and stewed in it for ten minutes before it is sent to table. ° Potatoes, 3 lbs.; broth, 2 quarts: 5 minutes. (With onions, 2 ozs.:) 10 minutes. APPLE SOUP. (Soupe a la Bourguignon.) Clear the fat from five pints of good mutton-broth, bowzllon, or shin of beef stock, and strain it through a fine sieve; add to it, when it boils, a pound and a half of good pudding apples, and stew them down in it very softly, to a smooth pulp; press the whole through a strainer, add a small teaspoonful of pow- dered ginger, and plenty of pepper, simmer the soup for a couple of minutes, skim, and serve it very hot, accompanied by a dish of rice, boiled as for curries. Broth, 5 pints; apples, 14 lb.: 25 to 40 minutes. Ginger, 1 teaspoonful ; pepper, 4 teaspoonful: 2 minutes. CHAP. 1.) SOUPS. of PARSNEP SOUP. * a Dissolve, over a gentle fire, four ounces and a half of goo butter, in a wide stewpan or saucepan, and slice in directly two ounds of sweet tender parsneps ; let them stew very softly until “all are tender, then pour in gradually sufficient veal stock, or good broth to cover them, and boil the whole slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour; press it with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve, add as much stock as will make two quarts in all, season the soup with salt and white pepper, or cayenne, give it one boil, skim, and serve it very hot. Send pale fried sippets to table with it. Butter, 44 ozs.; parsneps, 2 Ibs.: 2 hour, or more. Stock, 1 quart ; 20 to 30 minutes; 1 full quart more of stock ; pepper, salt: 1 minute. Obs.—We can particularly recommend this soup to those who like the peculiar flavour of the vegetable. ANOTHER PARSNEP SOUP. Slice into five pints of boiling veal stock or strong colourless broth, a couple of pounds of parsneps, and stew them as gently as possible from thirty minutes to an hour ; when they are perfectly tender, press them through a sieve, strain the soup to them, season, boil, and serve it very hot. With the addition of cream, parsnep soup made by this receipt resembles in appearance the Palestine soup. Veal stock or broth, 5 pints; parsneps, 2 Ibs.: 30 to 60 mi- nutes. Salt and cayenne: 2 minutes. WESTERFIELD WHITE SOUP. Break the bone of a knuckle of veal in one or two places, and put it on to stew, with three quarts of cold water to the five pounds of meat ; when it has been quite cleared from scum, add to it an ounce and a half of salt, two ounces and a half of onions, twenty corns of white pepper, and two or three blades of mace, with a liitie cayenne pepper. When the soup is reduced one third by slow simmering, strain it off, and set it by till cold; then free it carefully from the fat and sediment, and heat it again in a very clean stewpan. Mix with it when it boils, a pint of thick cream smoothly blended with an ounce of good arrow- root, two ounces of very fresh vermicelli previously boiled ten- der in water slightly salted and well-drained from it, and‘ an 22 | MODERN COOKERY. [SHAR I. _ Ounce and a half of almonds blanched, and cut in strips ;* give it one minute’s simmer, and serve it immediately, with a French roll i in the tureen. _ Veal, 5 Ibs.; water, 3 quarts; salt, 13 0z.; onions, 23 ozs.3; a a Sd t 20 corns white pepper; 2 large blades of mace : 5 hours i. more. ‘Cream, 1 pint; ‘almonds, 13 oz.3 vermicelli, 1 oz. minute. Little thickening, if needed. Obs.—Cream should always be boiled for a few minutes be- ‘ fore it is added to any soup. The yolks of two or three very fresh eggs beaten well, and mixed with half a pint of the boiling soup, may be stirred into the whole, after it 1s taken from the fire. Some persons put the eggs into the tureen, and add the soup to them by degrees; but this is not so well. Ifa superior white soup to this be wanted, put three quarts of water to seven pounds of veal, and half a pound of the lean part of a ham; or, Instead of water, use very clear, weak veal broth. Grated Par- mesan cheese should be handed round the table when white or maccaroni soup is served. A RICHER WHITE SOUP. Pound very fine indeed six ounces of sweet almonds, then add to them six ounces of the breasts of roasted chickens or par- tridges, and three ounces of the whitest bread which has been soaked in a little veal broth, and squeezed very dry in a cloth. Beat these altogether to an extremely smooth paste; then pour to them boiling and by degrees, two quarts of rich veal stock ; strain the soup through a fine hair sieve, set it again over the fire, add to it a pint of thick cream, and serve it, as soon as it is at the point of boiling, with a French roll in the tureen.° When cream is very scarce, or not easily to be procured, this soup may be thickened sufficiently without it, by increasing the quantity of almonds to eight or ten ounces, and pouring to them, after they have been “reduced to the finest paste, a pint of boiling stock, which must be again wrung from them through a coarse cloth with very strong pressure: the proportion of meat and bread also should then be nearly doubled. The stock should be _ well seasoned with mace and cayenne before it is added to the other ingredients. * We have given this receipt without any variation from the original, as the soup made exactly by it was much approved by the guests of the hospitable country gentleman, at whose elegant table it was served often for many years; but we would rather recommend that the almonds should be pounded, or merely blanched, cut in spikes, stuck into the crumb of a French a and putinto the tureen, simply to give flavour to the soup, CHAP. 1.] . SOUPS. ‘93 soaked bread, 3 ozs. ; a stock, 2 quarts ; cream, 1 ‘pint. a Obs.—Some persons pound the yolks of four or five hard- boiled eggs with the almonds, meat, and bread for this white aii. soup; French cooks beat smoothly with them an ounce or two if whole rice, previously boiled from fifteen to twenty minutes. ~ Obs.—A good plain white soup may be made simply by adding to a couple of quarts of pale veal stock or strong well flavoured veal broth, a thickening of arrow-root, and from half to three quarters of a pint of cream. our ounces of maccaroni boiled tender and well drained may be slipped into it a minute or two before it is dished, but the thickening may then be dimi- nished a little. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. To make a single tureen of this favourite English soup in the most economical manner, when there is no stock at hand, stew gently down in a gallon of water four pounds of the fleshy part of the shin of beef, or of the neck, if more convenient, with two or three carrots, one onion, a small head of celery, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, a half-teaspoonful of pepper- corns, and an ounce of salt. When the meat is quite in frag- ments, strain off the broth, and pour it when cold upon three pounds of the knuckle, or of the neck of veal; simmer this until the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, but be careful to stew it as softly as possible, or the quantity of stock will be so much reduced as to be insufficient for the soup. Next, take the half of a fine calf’s head with the skin on, remove the brains, and and then bone it* entirely, or let the butcher be requested to do this, and to return the bones with it: these, when there is time, may be stewed with the veal, to enrich the stock, or boiled after- wards with the head and tongue. Strain the soup through a hair-sieve into a clean pan, and let it drain closely from the meat. When it is nearly or quite cold, clear off all the fat from it; roll the head lightly round, leaving the tongue inside, or taking it out as is most convenient, secure it with tape or twine, pour the soup over, and bring it gently to boil upon a moderate fire; keep it well skimmed, and simmer it from an hour to an hour anda quarter ; then lift the head into a deep pan or tureen, * This is so simple and easy a process, that the cook may readily accomplish it with very little attention. Let her only work the knife close to the bone always. so as to take the flesh clean fromit, instead of leaving large fragments on. The jaw-bone may first be removed, and the flesh turned back from the edge of the other. . 24 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. 1 add the soup to it, and let it remain in until early cold, as this will prevent the edges from becoming dark. Cut into -"*quarter-inch slices, and then divide into dice, from six to eight ounces of the lean of an undressed ham, and if possible, one of good flavour; free it perfectly from fat, rind, and the Cine edges; peel and slice four moderate sized eschalots, or if these should not be at hand, one mild onion in lieu of them. Dissolve in a well-tinned stewpan, or thick iron saucepan which holds a gallon or more, four ounces of butter; put in the ham and eschalots, or onion, with half a dozen cloves, two middling sized blades of mace, a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns, three or four very small sprigs of thyme, three teaspoonsful of minced parsley, one of lemon thyme and winter savoury mixed, and when the flavour is thought appropriate, the very thin rind of half. a small fresh lemon. Stew these as softly as possible for nearly or quite an hour, and keep the pan frequently shaken; then put into a dredging box two ounces of fine dry flour and sprinkle it to them by degrees ; mix the whole well together, and after a few minutes more of gentle simmering, add very gradually five full pints of the stock taken free of fat and sediment, and made boiling before it is poured in; shake the pan strongly round as the first portions of it are added, and continue to do so until it contains from two to three pints, when the remainder may be poured in at once, and the pan placed by the side of the fire that it may boil in the gentlest manner for an hour. At the end of that time turn the whole into a hair-sieve placed over a large pan, and if the liquid should not run through freely, knock the sides of the sieve, but do not force it through with a spoon, as that would spoil the appearance of the stock. The head in the mean while should have been cut up, ready to add to it. For the finest kind of mock turtle, only the skin, with the fat that adheres to it should be used; and this, with the tongue, should be cut down into one inch squares, or if preferred, into strips of an inch wide. Jor ordinary occasions, the lean part of the flesh may be added also, but as it is always sooner done than the skin, it is better to add it to the soup a little later. When it is quite ready, put it with the strained stock into a clean pan, and sim- mer it from three quarters of an hour to a full hour: it should | be perfectly tender, without being allowed to break. Cayenne, if needed, should be thrown into the stock before it is strained ; salt should be used sparingly, on account of the ham, until the whole of the other ingredients have been mixed together, when a sufficient quantity must be stirred into the soup to season it properly. A couple of glasses of good sherry or Madeira, with CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 25 a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice are usually added two or three minutes only before the soup is dished, that the spirit ¥ and flavour of the wine may not have time to evaporate ; but it is sometimes preferred mellowed down by longer boiling. The roportion of lemon-juice may be doubled at will, but much acid oA not generally liked. We can assure the reader of the excel- lence of the soup made by this receipt: it is equally palatable and delicate, and not heavy or cloying to the stomach, like many of the elaborate compositions which bear its name. The fat, through the whole process, should be carefully skimmed off. The ham gives far more savour, when used as we have directed, than when, even in much larger proportions, it is boiled down in the stock. Two dozens of forcemeat balls, prepared by the receipt No. 11, Chap. VI., should be slipped into the soup when it is ready for table. It is no longer customary to serve egg- balls in it. First broth :—shin, or neck of beef, 4 Ibs.; water, 4 quarts ; carrots, 2 or 3; large mild onion, 1; celery, small head; bunch savoury herbs; mace, 1 large blade; peppercorns, } teaspoonful; cloves, 6; salt, 1 oz.: 5 hours or more, very gently. For stock: the broth and 3 lbs. neck or knuckle of veal (bones of head if ready): 4 to 5 hours. Boned half-head with skin on and tongue, 1 to 1i hour. Lean of undressed ham, 6 to 8 ozs. (6 if very salt); shalots, 4, or onion, 1; fresh butter, 4 ozs.; cloves, 6 ; middling sized blades of mace, 2; pepper-corns, 3 teaspoonful ; small sprigs of thyme, 3 or 4; minced parsley, 3 large teaspoons- ful; minced savoury and lemon-thyme mixed, 1 small teaspoonful (thin rind 3 small lemon, when liked): 1 hour. Flour, 2 ozs¢: 5 minutes. Stock, full five pints; flesh of head and tongue, 13 to 2 lbs.: 2 of an hour to 1 hour (salt, if needed, to be added in interim). Good sherry, or Madeira, 2 wineglassesful ; lemon-juice, 1 to 2 dessertspoonsful; forcemeat balls, ‘24. Obs. 1.—The beef, veal, bones of the head, and vegetables may be stewed down together when more convenient : it is only necessary that a really good, well-flavoured, and rather deeply- . coloured stock should be prepared. A calf’s foot is always an advantageous addition to it, and the skin of another calf’s head* a better one still. . * Country butchers, in preparing a calf’s head for sale in the ordinary way take of the skin (or scalp), considered so essential to the excellence of this soup, and frequently throw it away; it may, therefore, often be procured from them at very slight cost, and is the best possible addition to the mock turtle. It is cleared from the head in detached portions with the hair on, but this may easily be removed after a few minutes’ scalding as from the head itself, or the feet, by the direction given in C2ap. IX. 26 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. 1. Obs. 2.—A couple of dozen mushroom-buttons, cleaned with salt and flannel, then wiped very dry, and sliced, and added to the ham and herbs, when they have been simmered together about half an hour, will be found a great improvement to the soup ; but when they are not procurable, a pleasant flavour may be imparted to it by substituting two or three fresh bay- leaves. Obs. 3.—Claret is sometimes added to this soup instead of sherry or Madeira, but we do not think it would in general suit English taste so well. From two to three tablespoonsful of Harvey’s sauce can be stirred in with the wine ‘when it is liked, or when the colour requires deepening. OLD-FASHIONED MOCK TURTLE. After having taken out the brain and washed and soaked the head well, pour to it nine quarts of cold water, bring it gently ’ to boil, skim it very clean, boil it, if large, an hour and a half, lift it out, and put into the liquor eight pounds of neck of beef, lightly browned in a little fresh butter, with three or four thick slices, or a knuckle of lean ham, four large onions sliced, three heads of celery, three large carrots, a large bunch of sweet herbs, the rind of a lemon pared very thin, a dessertspoonful of pepper-corns, two ounces of salt, and after the meat has been taken from the head, all the bones and fragments. Stew these gently from seven to eight hours, then strain off the stock, and set it into a very cool place, that the fat may become firm enough on the top to be cleared off easily. The skin and fat of the head should be taken off together and divided into strips of two or three inches in length, and one in width; the tongue may be cut in the same manner, or into dice. Put the stock, of which there ought to be between four and five quarts, into a large soup or stew pot; thicken it when it boils with four ounces of fresh butter* mixed with an equal weight of fine dry flour, a half-teaspoonful of pounded mace, and a third as much cf cayenne (it is better to use these sparingly at first, and to ~ add more should the soup require it, after it has boiled some little time); pour in half a pint of sherry, stir the whole together until it has simmered for a minute or two, then put in the head, and let it stew gently from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half: stir it often, and clear it perfectly from scum. Slip into it, just before it is ready for table, three dozens _* When the butter is considered objectionable, the flour, without it, may be mixed to the smoothest batter possible, with a little cold stock or water, and ~ stirred briskly into the boiling soup: the spices should be blended with it. x CHAP. 1.} SOUPS. ie of small forcemeat-balls; the brain cut into dice (after having been well soaked, scalded,* and freed from the film), dipped « into beaten yolk of egg, then into the finest crumbs mixed with salt, white pepper, a little grated nutmeg, fine lemon-rind, and ~ chopped parsley fried a fine brown, well drained and dried; and _.as many egg-balls, the size of a small marble, as the yolks of ~ four eggs will supply. (See Chapter VI.) This quantity will be sufficient for two large tureens of soup; when the whole is not wanted for table at the same time, it is better to add wine only to so much as will be required for immediate consumption, or if it cannot conveniently be divided, to heat the wine in a small saucepan with a little of the soup, to turn it into the tureen, and then to mix it with the remainder by stirring the whole gently after the tureen is filled. Some persons simply put in the cold wine just before the soup is dished, but this is not so well. Whole calf’s head with skin on, boiled 14 hour. Stock: neck of beef, browned in butter, 8 lbs.; lean of ham, 3 to 2 Ib. (or a knuckle) ; onions, 4; large carrots, 3; heads of celery, 3; large bunch sweet herbs; salt, 2 ozs. (as much more to be added when the soup is made as will season it sufficiently) ; thin rind, 1 lemon; peppercorns, 1 dessertspoonful ; bones and trimmings of head: 8 hours. Soup: stock, 4 to 5 quarts; flour and butter for thickening, of each 4 ozs.; pounded mace, half-teaspoonful; cayenne, third as much (more of each as needed) ; sherry, half pint: 2 to 3 minutes. Flesh of head and tongue, nearly or quite, 2 lbs.: 14 to14 hour. Forcemeat- balls, 36 ; the brain cut and fried ; egg-balls, 16 to 24. Obs.—W hen the brain is not blanched it must be cut thinner in the form of small cakes, or it will not be done through by the time it has taken enough colour: it may be altogetler omitted without much detriment to the soup, and will make an excellent corner dish, if gently stewed in white gravy for half an hour, and served with it thickened with cream and arrow-root, to the | consistency of good white sauce, then rather highly seasoned, and mixed with plenty of chopped parsley, and some lemon- juice. GOOD CALF’S HEAD SOUP. (Not expensive.) Boil down from six to seven pounds of the.thick part of a ee The brain should be blanched, that is, thrown into boiling water with a - litile salt in it, and boiled from five to eight minutes; then lifted out, and ee barat cold water for a quarter of an hour; it must be wiped very dry before is fried. - 28 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I. shin of beef with a little lean ham, or a slice of hung beef trimmed free from the smoky edges, should either of these last be at hand, in five quarts of water, till reduced nearly half, . with the addition, when it first begins to stew, of an ounce of salt, a large bunch of savoury herbs, one large onion, a head of celery, three carrots, two or three turnips, two small blades of mace, eight or ten cloves, and a few white or black pepper- corns. Let it boil gently, that it may not be too much reduced, for six or seven hours, then strain it into a clean pan and set it by for use. Take out the bone from half a calf’s head with the skin on (the butcher will do this if desired), wash, roll, and bind it with a bit of tape or twine, and lay it into a stewpot, with the bones and tongue; cover the whole with the beef stock, and stew it for an hour and a half; then lift itinto a deep earthen pan and let it cool in the liquor, as this will prevent the edges from being dry or discoloured. ‘Take it out before it is quite cold; strain, and skim all the fat carefully from the stock ; heat five pints in a large clean saucepan, with the head cut into small thick slices or into inch-squares. As quite the whole will not be needed, leave a portion of the fat, but add every morsel of the skin to the soup, and of the tongue also. Should the first of these not be perfectly tender, it must be simmered gently till it is so; then stir into the soup from six to eight ounces of fine rice-flour mixed with a quarter-teaspoon- ful of cayenne, twice as much freshly pounded mace, half a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and sufficient cold broth or water to render it of the consistency of batter; boil the whole from eight to ten minutes ; take off the scum, and throwin two glasses of sherry; dish the soup and slip into the tureen some delicately fried, and well dried forcemeat-balls made by the receipt No. 1, 2, or 3 of Chapter VI. A small quantity of lemon-juice or other acid can be added at pleasure. The wine and forcemeat-balls may be omitted, and the other seasonings of the soup a little heightened. As much salt as may be required should be added to the stock when the head first begins to boil in it: the cook must regulate also by the taste the exact pro- portion of cayenne, mace, and catsup, which will flavour the soup agreeably. The fragments of the head, with the bones and the residue of the beef used for stock, if stewed down together with some water and a few ‘fresh vegetables, will afford some excéllent broth, such as would be highly acceptable, especially if well thickened with rice, to many a poor family during the winter months. Stock: shin of beef, 6 to 7 Ibs.; water, 5 quarts: stewed CHAP. 1.] SOUPS. 29 down (with vegetables, &c.) till reduced nearly half. Boned half-head with skin on stewed in stock, 14 hour. Soup: stock, 5 pints; tongue, skin of head, and part of flesh: 15 to 40 minutes, or more if not quite tender. Rice-flour, 6 to 8 ozs. ; cayenne, quarter-teaspooniul ; mace, twice as much ; mushroom ‘eatsup, } wineglassful: 10 minutes. Sherry, 2 wineglassesful , forcemeat-balls, 20 to 30. P POTAGE A LA REINE. Should there be no strong veal broth, nor any white stock in readiness, stew four pounds of the scrag or knuckle of veal, with a, thick slice or two of lean ham, a faggot of sweet herbs, two moderate-sized carrots, and the same of onions, a large blade of mace, and a half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns, in four quarts of water until reduced to about five pints; then strain the liquor, and set it by until the fat can be taken entirely from it. Skin, and wash thoroughly, a couple of fine fowls, or three young pullets, and take away the dark spongy substance which adheres to the insides ; pour the veal broth to them, and _ boil them gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour ; then lift them out, take off all the white flesh, mince it small, pound it to the finest paste, and cover it with a basin till wanted for use. In the mean time let the bodies of the fowls be put again into the stock, and stewed gently for an hour and a half; add as much salt and cayenne as will season the soup properly, strain it off when sufficiently boiled, and let it cool; skim off every particle of fat; steep, in a small portion of it, which should be boiling, four ounces of the crumb of light stale bread, sliced thin, and when it has simmered a few minutes, drain or wring the moisture from it in a clean cloth, add it to the flesh of the chickens, and pound them together until they are perfectly blended ; then pour the stock to them in very small quantities at first, and mix them smoothly with it; pass the whole through a sieve or tammy, heat it in a clean stewpan, stir to it from a pint to a pint and a halfof boiling cream, and add, should it not be sufficiently thick, an ounce and a half of arrow-root, quite free from lumps, and moistened with a few spoonsful of cold milk or stock. For stock: veal, 4 Ibs.; ham, 6 ozs.; water, 4 quarts; bunch of herbs; carrots, 2; onions, 2; mace, large blade; pepper- corns, 4 teaspoonful; salt: 5. hours. Fowls, 2, or pullets, 3; 2 to 1 hour; stewed afterwards 1 to 13 hour. Crumb of bread, 4 ozs.; cream, 1 te 13 pint; arrow-root (if needed), 13 oz. 80 ‘ MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I. *zq Obs.—Some cooks pound with the bread and chickens the — yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, but these improv neither the colour nor the flavour of the soup. WHITE OYSTER SOUP, Or, Oyster Soup a la Reine. When the oysters are small, from two to three dozens for each pint of soup should be prepared, but this number can, of course, be diminished or increased at pleasure. Let the fish (which should be finely conditioned natives) be opened carefully ; pour the liquor from them, and strain it; rinse them in it well, and beard them; strain the liquor a second time through a lawn- sieve or folded muslin, and pour it again over the oysters. Take a portion from two quarts of the palest veal stock, and simmer the beards in it from twenty to thirty minutes. Heat the soup, flavour it well with mace and cayenne, and strain the stock from the oyster-beards into it. Plump the fish in their own liquor, but do not let them boil; pour the liquor to the soup, and add to.it a pint of boiling cream; put the oysters into the tureen, dish the soup, and send it to table quickly. Should any thickening be required, stir briskly to the stock an ounce and a half of arrow-root, ground very smooth in a mortar, and carefully mixed with a little milk or cream ; or, in lieu of this, when a r7ch soup is liked, thicken it with four ounces of fresh butter well blended with three of flour. Oysters, 8 to 12 dozens; pale veal stock, 2 quarts; cream, 1 pint; thickening, 14 oz. arrow-root, or butter, 4 ozs., flour, 3 OZS. RABBIT SOUP A LA REINE. Wash and soak thoroughly three young rabbits, put them whole into the soup-pot, and pour on them seven pints of cold water, or of clear veal broth; when they have stewed gently about three quarters of an hour, lift them out, and take oif the flesh of the backs, with a little from the legs, should there not be half a pound of the former; strip off the skin, mince the meat very small, and pound it to the smoothest paste; cover it from the air, and set it by. Put back into the soup the bodies of the rabbits, with two mild onions of moderate size, a head of celery, three carrots, a faggot of savoury herbs, two blades of mace, a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns, and an ounce of salt. Stew the whole softly about four hours, strain it off, let it stand to settle, pour it gently from the sediment, put from four to five | pints into a clean stewpan, and mix it very gradually while hot, CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 7 - ? with the pounded rabbit-flesh : this must be done with care, for if the liquid be not added in very small portions at first, the meat will gather into lumps, and will not easily be worked smooth afterwards. Add as much pounded mace and cayenne as will season the soup pleasantly, and pass it through a coarse but very clean sieve; wipe out the stewpan, put back the soup into it, and stir in when it boils, a pint and a quarter of good cream, mixed with a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root: salt, if needed, should be thrown in previously. Young rabbits, 3; water, or clear veal broth, 7 pints: $ of an hour. Remains of rabbits; onions, 2; celery, 1 head; car- rots, 3; savoury herbs; mace, 2 blades; white peppercorns, a half-teaspoonful ; salt, 1 0oz.: 4 hours. Soup, 4 to 5 pints; pounded rabbit-flesh, 8 ozs. ; salt, mace, and cayenne, if needed ; cream, 1} pint; arrow-root, 1 tablespoonful (or 13 0z.) BROWN RABBIT SOUP Cut down into joints, flour, and fry lightly, two full grown, or three young rabbits; add to them three onions of moderate size, also fried to a clear brown; on these pour gradually seven pints of boiling water, throw in a large teaspoonful of salt, clear off all the scum with care as it rises, and then put to the soup a faggot of parsley, four not very large carrots, and a small tea- spoonful of peppercorns; boil the whole very softly from five hours to five and a half; add more salt if needed, strain off the soup, jet it cool sufficiently for the fat to be skimmed clean from it, heat it afresh, and send it to table with sippets of fried bread. Spice, with a thickening of rice-flour, or of wheaten flour browned in the oven, and mixed with a spoonful or two of very good mushroom catsup, or of Harvey’s sauce, can be added at pleasure to the above, with a few drops of eschalot-wine, or vinegar; but the simple receipt will be found extremely good without them. ‘ sized ; water, 7 pints ; salt, 1 large teaspoonful or more ; carrots, scot of parsley ; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful: 5 to 54 hours. SUPERLATIVE HARE SOUP. Cut down a hare into joints, and put it into a soup-pot, or large stewpan, with about a pound of lean ham, in thick slices, three moderate-sized mild onions, three blades of mace, a faggot tf thyme, sweet marjoram, and parsley, and about three quarts of good beef stock. Let it stew very gently for full two A * 39 . MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP, I. hours from the time of its first beginning to boil, and more, if ‘the hare be old. Strain the soup and pound together very * fine the slices of ham and all the flesh of the back, legs, and - © shoulders of the hare, and put this meat into a stewpan with the liquor in which ‘it was boiled, the crumb of two French rolls, and half a pint of port wine. Set it on the stove to simmer twenty minutes ; then rub it through a sieve, place it again on the stove till very hot, but do not let it boil; season it with salt and cayenne, and send it to table directly. . - Hare, 1; ham, 12 to 16 ozs; onions, 3 to 6; mace, 3 blades; faggot of savoury herbs ; beef stock, 3 quarts: 2 hours. Crumb of 2 rolls; port wine, 3 pint; little salt and cayenne: 20 mi- nutes. A LESS EXPENSIVE HARE SOUP.* Pour on two pounds of neck or shin of beef, and a hare well washed and carved into joints, one gallon of cold water, and when it boils and has been thoroughly skimmed, add an ounce and a half of salt, two onions, one large head of celery, three moderate-sized carrots, a teaspoonful of black peppercorns, and six cloves. . Let these stew very gently for three hours, or longer, should the hare not be perfectly tender. Then take up the principal joints, cut the meat from them, mince, and pound it to a fine paste, with the crumb of two penny rolls (or two ounces of the crumb of household bread), that has been soaked in a little of the boiling soup, and then pressed very dry in a cloth; strain, and mix smoothly with it, the stock from the remainder of the hare ; pass the soup through a strainer, season it with cayenne, and serve it when at the point of boiling: if not sufficiently thick, add tovit a tablespoonful of arrow-root, moistened with little cold broth, and let the soup simmer for an instant af wards. ‘Two or three glasses of port wine, and two d small forcemeat balls, are sometimes added to this very good efiect. MES Beef, 2 lbs.; hare, 1; water, 1 gallon; salt, 14 oz.; Onions, 2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 3; bunch savoury herbs; pepper- » corns, 1 teaspoonful; cloves, 6: 3 hours, or more. Bread, 2 OZS.3 cayenne; arrow-roct (if needed), 1 tablespoonfal. a PHEASANT SOUP. Half roast a brace of well-kept pheasants, and flour them * The remains of a roasted hare, with the forcemeat and gravy, are admirably calculated for making this soup. i CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 33 Ei rather thickly when they are first laid to the fire. As soon as they are nearly cold take all the flesh from the breasts, put it aside, and keep it covered from the air; carve down the re- mainder of the birds into joints, bruise the bodies thoroughly, ~ and stew the whole gently from two to three hours in five pints of strong beef broth; then strain off the soup, and press as much of it as possible from the pheasants. Let it cool, and in the mean time strip the skin from the breasts, mince them small, and pound them to the finest paste, with half as much fresh ‘butter, and half of dry crumbs of bread ; season these well with cayenne, sufficiently with salt, and moderately with pounded mace, and grated nutmeg, and add, when their flavour is liked, three or four eschalots, previously boiled tender in a little of the soup, left till cold, and minced before they are put into the mortar ; moisten the mixture with the yolks of two or three eggs, roll it into small balls of equal size, dust a little flour upon them, skim all the fat from the soup, heat it in a clean stewpan, and when it boils throw them ‘In and poach them from ten to twelve minutes, but first ascertain that the soup is properly sea- soned with. salt and cayenne. Minced savoury herbs, and even grated lemon-rind, would perhaps to English taste improve the forcemeat, as well.as a small portion of lean ham, a thick slice of which might be stewed in the soup for the purpose. We have recommended that the birds should be partially roasted before they are put into the soup-pot, because their flavour is much finer when this is done than when they are simply stewed ; they should be placed rather near to a brisk fire that they be quickly browned on the surface, without losing any of their juices, and the basting should be constant. A slight thickening of rice-flour or arrow-root can be added to the soup at pleasure, and the forcemeat-balls may be fried and slipped into the tureen when they are preferred so. Half a dozen eschalots lightly browned in butter, and a small head of celery may also be thrown in after the birds begin to stew, but nothing should be allowed to prevail over the natural flavour of the game itself’;. and this should be observed equally with other kinds, as par- tridges, grouse, and venison. Pheasants, 2: roasted 20 to 30 minutes. Strong beef broth, or stock, 5 pints: 2 to 3 hours. £orcemeat-balls: breasts of pheasants, half as much of dry bread-crumbs-and of butter, salt, mace, cayenne ; yolks of 2 or 3 eggs (and at choice 3 or 4 boiled eschalots). he Obs.—The stock may be made of six pounds of shin of beef, and four quarts of water reduced to within a pint of half. A D yf yarn ree # e346 MODERN COOKERY. [omar. 1. onion, a large carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, and some salt and spice should be added to it: one pound of neck of veal or of beef will improve it. ANOTHER PHEASANT SOUP. Boil down the half-roasted birds as directed in the foregoing receipt, and add to the soup, after it is strained and re-heated, — the breasts pounded to the finest paste with nearly as much bread soaked in a little of the stock and pressed very dry ; for the proper manner of mixing them, see Potage a la Reine, page 29. Half a pint of small mushrooms cleaned as for pickling, then sliced. rather thickly, and stewed from ten to fifteen minutes, without browning, in an ounce or two of fresh butter, with a slight seasoning of mace, cayenne, and salt, then turned into the mortar and pounded with the other ingredients, will be found an excellent addition to the soup, which must be passed through a strainer after:the breasts are added to it, brought to the point of boiling, and served with sippets a la Reine, or with others simply fried of a delicate brown and well dried. We have occasionally had a small quantity of delicious soup made with the remains of birds which have been served at table; and where game is frequently dressed, the cook, by reserving all the fragments for the purpose, and combining different kinds, may often send up a good tureen of such, made atia very slight cost. Pheasants, 2; stock, 5 pints; bread soaked in gravy (see Panada, Chapter VI.), nearly as much i bulk as the flesh of the breasts of the birds; mushrooms, } pint, stewed in 1 or 2 ozs. of butter 10 to 15 minutes, then pounded with flesh of pheasants. Salt, cayenne, and mace, to season properly. PARTRIDGE SOUP. vA This is, we think, superior in flavour to the pheasant soup. — It should be made in precisely the same manner, but three -birds: allowed for it instead of two. Grouse and partridges together will make a still finer one: the remains of roast grouse even, added to a brace of partridges, will produce a very good , effect. | ~& MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. Slice, and fry gently in some good butter three or four large onions, and when they are of a fine equal amber-colour lift them out with a slice and put them into a deep stewpot, or large thick saucepan; throw a little more butter into the pan, and ; 2 CHAP. I. | SOUPS. 85 then brown lightly in it a young rabbit, or the prime joints of two, or a fowl cut down small, and floured. When the meat is sufficiently browned, lay it upon the onions, pour gradually to them a quart of good boiling stock, and stew it gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour ; then take it out, and press the stock and onions through a "fine sieve or strainer. Add to them two pints and a half more of stock, pour the whole into a clean pan, and when it boils stir to it two heaped table- spoonsful of currie-powder mixed with nearly as much of browned flour, and a little cold water or broth; put in the meat, and simmer it for twenty minutes or longer should it not be perfectly tender, add the juice of a small lemon just before it is dished, serve it very hot, and send boiled rice to table with it. Part of a pickled mango is sometimes stewed in this soup, and — is much recommended by persons who have been long resident in India. We have given here the sort of receipt commonly used in England for mullagatawny, but.a much finer soup.may be made by departing from it in some respects. ‘The onions, of which the proportion may be increased or diminished to the taste, after being fried slowly, and with care, that no part should be overdone, may be stewed for an hour in the first guart of stock with three or four ounces of grated cocoa-nut, which will impart a rich mellow flavour to the whole. After all of this that can be rubbed through the sieve has been added, to as much stock as will be required for the soup, and the currie- powder and thickening have boiled in it for i minutes, the fiesh of part of a calf’s head previously stewed almost suffi- ciently, and cut as for mock turtle, with a sweetbread also stewed or boiled in broth tolerably tender, and divided into inch-squares, will make an admirable mullagatawny, if sim- mered in the stock until they have taken the flavour of the '. currie-seasoning. The flesh of a couple of calves’ feet, with a sweetbread or two, may, when more convenient, be substituted for the head. A large cupful of thick cream, first mixed and boiled with a teaspoonful of fiour or arrow-root to prevent its, curdling, and stirred into the soup before the lemon-juice, will enrich and improve it much. Rabbit, 1, or the best joints of 2, or fowl, 1; large onions, 4 to 6; stock, 1 quart: ? to 1 hour. 24 pints more of stock ; currie-powder, . 2 heaped tablespoonsful, with 2 of browned flour; meat and all simmered together 20 minutes or more; juice of lemon, 1 small; or part of pickled mango stewed im the soup. _Or,—onions, 3 to 6; cocoa-nut, 3 to 4 ozs.; stock, 1 quart: 36 MODERN COOKERY.. [CHAP. I. stewed, 1 hour. Stock, 3 pints (in addition to the first quart) ; currie-powder and thickening each, 2 large tablespoonsful: 20 minutes. Flesh of part of calf’s head and sweetbread, 15 minutes, or more. Thick cream, 1 cupful; flour, or arrow-root, 1 teaspoonful : boiled 2 minutes, and stirred to the soup. Chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful, or lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful. Obs. 1.—The brain of the calf’s head stewed for twenty minutes in a little of the stock, then rubbed through a sieve, diluted gradually with more of the stock, and added as thicken- ing tothe soup, will be found an admirable substitute for part of the flour. Obs.2.—Three or four pounds of a breast of veal, or an equal weight of mutton, free from bone and fat, may take the place of rabbits or fowls in this soup, for a plain dinner. The veal should be cut into squares of an inch and a half, or into strips of an inch in width, and two in length; and the mutton should be trimmed down in the same way, or into very small cutlets. Obs. 3.—For an elegant table, the joints of rabbit or of fowl should always be boned before they are added to the soup, for which, in this case, a couple of each will be needed for a single tureen, as all the inferior joints must be rejected. TO BOIL RICE FOR MULLAGATAWNY SOUPS, OR FOR CURRIES. The Patna, or small-grained rice, which is not so good as the Carolina for the general purposes of cookery, is the sort which ought to be served with currie. First take out the unhusked .grains, then wash the rice in two or three different waters, and - put it into a large quantity of cold; bring it gently to boil, keeping it uncovered, and boil it softly for fifteen minutes, when it will be perfectly tender, and every grain will remain distinct. Throw it into a /arge cullender, and let it drain for ten minutes near the fire; should it not then appear quite dry, turn it into a dish, and set it for a short time into a gentle oven, or let it steam in a clean saucepan near the fire. It should neither be stirred, except just at first, to prevent its lumping while it is still quite hard, nor touched with either fork or spoon; the stewpan may be shaken occasionally, should the rice seem to require it, and it should be thrawn lightly from the cullender upon the dish. A couple of minutes before it is done, throw in some salt, and from the time of its beginning to boil, remove the scum as it rises. Patna rice, 3 lb.; cold water, 2 quarts: boiled slowly, 15 minutes. Salt, 1 large teaspoonful. _Obs.—This, of all the modes of boiling rice, which we have ? CHAP. I.] SOUPS. | . 37 tried, and they have been very numerous, is indisputably the best. ‘The Carolina rice even, answers well dressed, in this way. One or two minutes, more or less, will sometimes, from the varying quality of the grain, be requisite to render it tender. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BOILING RICE. (Wot so good as the preceding one.) Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, and soak it for an hour; drain and throw it into a large quantity of fast-boil- ing water. Leave it uncovered, take off the scum, and add salt when it is nearly done. When it has boiled from fifteen to eighteen minutes, drain it well, heap it lightly in a dish, and place it in a gentle oven to dry. Obs.—Rice is of far better flavour when cooked in so much water only as it will absorb; but it cannot then so easily be rendered dry enough to serve with currie, or. with curried soups. One pint of rice, washed and soaked for a few minutes, then wiped very dry, and dropped by degrees into five half pints of water, which should boil quickly, and continue to do so, while the rice is being added, and for a minute afterwards, and then placed over the fire, that it may stew very softly for half an hour, or until it is tender, and as dry as it will become without being burned, will be found very good. The addition of a couple of ounces of fresh butter, when it is nearly done, will convert it into a very palatable dish of itself. VEGETABLE MULLAGATAWNY. Dissolve in a large stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, four ounces of butter, and when it is on the point of browning, throw in four large mild onions sliced, three pounds weight of young vegetable marrow, cut in large dice, and cleared from the skin and seeds, four large, or six moderate sized cucumbers, pared, split, and emptied likewise of their seeds, and from three to six large acid apples, according to the taste; shake the pan often, and stew these over a gentle fire until they are tolerably tender ; then strew lightly over, and mix well amongst them, three heaped tablespoonsful of mild currie powder, with nearly a third — as much of salt, and let the vegetables stew from twenty to thirty minutes longer; then pour to them gradually sufficient boiling water (broth or stock if preferred), to just cover them, and when they are reduced almost to a pulp press the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon, and heat it in a clean stewpan, with as much additional liquid as will make two quarts with | that which was first added. Give any further flavouring that 38 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. I. may be needed, whether of salt, cayenne, or acid, and serve the soup extremely hot. Should any butter appear on the surface, let it be carefully skimmed off, or stir in a small dessertspoonful of arrow-root (smoothly mixed with a little cold broth or water) to absorb it. Rice may be served with this soup at pleasure, but as it is of the consistency of winter peas soup, it scarcely requires any addition. The currie powder may be altogether omitted for variety, and the whole converted into a plain vege- table potage; or it may be rendered one of high savour, by browning all the vegetables lightly, and adding to them rich brown stock. ‘Tomatas, when in season, may be substituted for the apples, after being divided, and freed from their seeds. Butter, 4 ozs.; vegetable marrow, pared and scooped, 3 Ibs. ; _ large mild onions, 4; large cucumbers, 4; or middling-sized, 6 ; apples, or tomatas, 3 to 6: 30 to 40 minutes. Mild currie- powder, 3 heaped tablespoonsful ; salt, one small tablespoonful : 20 to 32 minutes. Water, broth, or good stock, 2 quarts. CUCUMBER SOUP. Pare, split, and empty from eight to twenty* fine, well rown, but not old cucumbers,—those which have the fewest seeds are best for the purpose; throw a little salt over them, and leave them for an hour to drain, then put them with the white part only of a couple of mild onions, into a deep stewpan, or delicately clean saucepan, cover them nearly half an inch with pale, but good veal stock, and stew them gently until they are perfectly tender, which will be in from three quarters of an hour to an hour anda quarter; press the whole through a hair- sieve, and add to it as much more stock as may be needed to make the quantity of soup required for table; and as the cucumbers, from their watery nature, will thicken it but little, stir to it when it boils, as much arrow-root, rice-flour, or tous les mois (see page 4), as will bring it to a good consistency; add from half to a whole pint of boiling cream, and serve the soup immediately. Salt and cayenne, sufficient to season it, should be thrown over the cucumbers while they are stewing. The yolks of six or eight eggs, mixed with a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, may be used for this soup instead of cream; three dessertspoonsful of minced parsley may then be strewed into it a couple of minutes before they are added: it must not, of course, be allowed to boil after they are stirred in. * This is a great disparity of numbers; but some regard must be had to expense, where the vegetable cannot be obtained with facility. CHAP. 1.] SOUPS. 39 AN EXCELLENT GREEN PEAS SOUP. Take at their fullest size, but before they are of bad colour or worm-eaten, three pints of fine large peas, and boil them as for table (see Chapter XV.) with half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda in the water, that they may be very green. When they are quite tender, drain them well, and put them into a couple of quarts of boiling, pale, but good beef or veal stock, and stew them in it gently for half an hour, then work the whole through a fine hair-sieve ; put it into a clean pan and bring it to the point of boiling ; add salt, should it be needed, and a small tea- spoonful. of pounded sugar, clear off the scum entirely, and serve the soup as hot as possible, with small pale sippets of fried bread. An elegant variety of it is made by adding a half pint more of stock to the peas, and about three quarters of a pint of - asparagus points, boiled apart, and well drained before they are thrown into it, which should be done only the instant before it is sent to table: the fried bread will not then be needed. Green peas, 3 pints: boiled 25 to 30 minutes, or more. Veal or beef stock, 2 quarts (with peas): 4 an hour. Sugar, one small teaspoonful ; salt, if needed. Obs.—W hen there is no stock at hand, four or five pounds of shin of beef, boiled slowly down with three quarts of water to two, and well seasoned with savoury herbs, young carrots, and onions, will serve instead quite well. A thick slice of lean, undressed ham would improve it. Should a common English peas soup be wished for, make it somewhat thinner than the one above, and add to it, just before it is dished, from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas boiled tender, and well drained. GREEN PEAS SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT. Boil tender, in three quarts of water, with the proportions of salt and soda directed for them in Chapter XV., one quart of large, full grown peas ; drain and pound them in a mortar, mix -with them gradually five pints of the liquor in which they were boiled, put the whole again over the fire, and stew it gently for a quarter of an hour; then press it through a hair-sieve. In the mean time, simmer, in fiom three to four ounces of butter,* three large, or four small cucumbers, pared and sliced, the hearts of three or four lettuces shred small, from one to four onions, * Some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine brown, then drained on a sieve, and weil dried before the fire; but though more savoury so, they do not improve the colour of the soup. 40 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. t according to the taste, cut thin, a few small sprigs of parsley, and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen leaves or more of mint, roughly chopped: keep these stirred over a gentle fire for nearly or quite an hour, and strew over them a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a good seasoning of white pepper or cayenne. When they are partially done, drain them from the butter, put them into the strained stock, and let the whole boil gently until all the butter has been thrown to the surface, and been entirely cleared from it; then throw in from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas, boiled as for eating, and serve the soup im- mediately. When more convenient, the peas, with a portion of the liquor, may be pressed through a sieve, instead of being crushed in a mortar ; and when the colour of the soup is not so much a con- sideration as the flavour, they may be slowly stewed until per- fectly tender in four ounces of good butter, instead of being boiled: a few green onions, and some branches of parsley may then be added to them. Green peas, 1 quart; water, 5 pints; cucumbers, 3 to 6; lettuces, 3 or 4; onions, 1 to 4; little parsley ; mint (if liked), 12 to 20 leaves; butter, 3 to 4 ozs.; salt, half-teaspoonful ; seasoning of white pepper or cayenne: 50 to 60 minutes. Young peas, 3 to 2 of a pint. Obs.—We must repeat that the peas for these soups must not be old, as when they are so, their fine sweet flavour is entirely lost, and the dried ones would have almost as good an effect ; nor should they be of inferior kinds. Freshly gathered mar- rowfats, taken at nearly, or quite their full growth, will give ths; best quality of soup. We are credibly informed, but can- nut assert it on our own authority, that it is often made for ex- pensive tables in early spring, with the young, tender plants or halms of the peas, when they are about a foot in height. They are cut off close to the ground, like small salad, then boiled and pressed through a strainer, and mixed with the stock. The ' flavour is affirmed to be excellent. ; . A CHEAP GREEN PEAS SOUP. Wash very clean, and throw into an equal quantity of boiling. water, salted as for peas, three quarts of the shells, and in from twenty to thirty minutes, when they will be quite tender, turn the whole into a large strainer, and press the pods strongly with a wooden spoon. Measure the liquor, put two quarts of it into a clean, deep saucepan, and when it boils, add to it a quart of full grown peas, two, or even three large cucumbers, as many i ce ey meres ts CHAP. I. | SOUPS. 41 — moderate-sized lettuces freed from the coarser leaves, and cut. small, one large onion (or more if liked), sliced extremely thin and stewed for half an hour in a morsel of butter before it is added to the soup, or gently fried without being allowed to brown; a branch or two of parsley, and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen leaves of mint. Stew these softly for an hour, with the addition of a small teaspoonful, or a larger quantity if required, of salt, and a good seasoning of fine white pepper, or of cayenne; then press the whole of the vegetables with the soup through a hair-sieve, heat it afresh, and send it to table with a dish of small fried sippets.. The colour will not be so bright as that of the more expensive soups which precede it, but - it will be excellent in flavour. Pea-shells, 3 quarts; water, 3 quarts: 20 to 30 minutes. Liquor from these, 2 quarts; full-sized green peas, 1 quart; large cucumbers, 2 or 3; lettuces, 3; onion, 1 (or more); little parsley; mint, 12 leaves; seasoning of salt and pepper or cay- enne: stewed 1 hour. Obs.—The cucumbers should be pared, quartered, and freed from the seeds before they are added to the soup. ‘The peas, as we have said already more than once, should not be old, but taken at their full growth, before they lose their colour: the youngest of the shells ought to be selected for the liquor. RICH PEAS SOUP. Soak a quart of fine yellow split peas for a night, drain them well, and put them into a large soup-pot with five quarts of good brown gravy stock ; and when they have boiled gently for half an hour, add to the soup three onions, as many carrots, and a turnip or two, all sliced and fried carefully in butter; stew the whole softly till the peas are reduced to pulp, then add as much salt and cayenne as may be needed to season it well, give it two or three minutes’ boil, and pass it through a sieve, press- ing the vegetables with it. Put into a clean saucepan as much as may be required for table, add a little fresh stock to it should it be too thick, and reduce it by quick boiling if two thin; throw in the white part of some fresh celery sliced a quarter of an inch thick, and when this is tender send the soup quickly to table with a dish of small fried sippets. A dessertspoonful or more of currie-powder greatly improves peas soup : it should be smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of it, and poured to the remainder when this first begins to boil after having been strained. Split peas, 1 quart: soaked one night. Good brown gravy re 42 MODERN COOKERY. [CH APy Ine soup, 5 quarts: 830 minutes. Onions and carrots browned in butter, 3 of each; turnips, 2: 25 to 35 hours. Cayenne and salt as needed. Soup, 5 pints; celery sliced, 1 large or 2 small heads: 20 minutes. . Obs.—When more convenient, six pounds of neck of beef well scored and equally, but carefully browned, may be boiled gently with the peas and fried vegetables in a gallon of water (which should be poured to them boiling) for four or five hours. COMMON PEAS SOUP. Wash well a quart of good split peas, and float off such as ‘remain on the surface of the water; soak them for one night, and boil them with a bit of soda the size of a filbert in just sufficient water to allow them to break toa mash. Put them into from three to four quarts of good beef broth, and stew them in it gently for an hour; then work the whole through a sieve, heat afresh as much as may be required for table, season it with salt and cayenne or common pepper, clear it perfectly — from scum, and send it to table with fried or toasted bread. Celery sliced and stewed in it as directed for the rich peas soup, will be found a great improvement to this. Peas, 1 quart: soaked 1 night; boiled in 2 quarts or rather | more of water, 2 to 25 hours. Beef broth, 3 to 4 quarts: 1 hour. Salt and cayenne or pepper as needed: 3 minutes. PEAS SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. To a pint of peas, freed from all that are worm-eaten, and well washed, put five pints of cold water, and boil them toler- ably tender ; then add a couple of onions (more or less according to the taste), a couple of fine carrots grated, one large or two moderate-sized turnips sliced, all gently fried brown in butter; half a teaspoonful of black pepper, and three times as much of salt. Stew these softly, keeping them often stirred, until the vegetables are sufficiently tender to press through a sieve; then rub the whole through one, put it into a clean pan, and when it boils throw in a sliced head of celery, heighten the seasoning if - needful, and in twenty minutes serve the soup as hot as possible, with a dish of fried or toasted bread cut into dice. A little Chili vinegar can be added when liked : a larger proportion of veget- ables also may be boiled down with the peas at pleasure. Weak broth, or the liquor in which a joint has been boiled, can, when at hand, be substituted for the water, but the soup is very CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 43 palatable as we have given the receipt for it. Some persons like it flavoured with a little mushroom catsup. Split peas, 1 pint; water, 5 pints: 2 hours or more. Onions, 2; carrots, 2; large turnip, 1; pepper, 4 teaspoonful; salt, 14 teaspoonful: 1 to 14 hour. Celery, 1 head: 20 minutes. OX-TAIL SOUP. An inexpensive and very nutritious soup may be made of ox-tails, but it will be insipid in flavour without the addition of a little ham, knuckle of bacon, or a pound or two of other meat. Wash and soak three tails, pour on them a gallon of cold water, let them be brought gradually to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt, and clear off the scum carefully as soon as it forms upon the surface; when it ceases to rise, add four mode- rate-sized carrots, from two to four onions, according to the taste, a large faggot of savoury herbs, a head of celery, a couple of turnips, six or eight cloves, and a half-teaspoonful of pepper- corns. Stew these gently from three hours to three and a half, — if the tails be very large; lift them out, strain the liquor, and skim. off all the fat; cut the meat from the tails (or serve them, if preferred, divided into joints), and put it into a couple of quarts or rather more of the stock ; stir in, when these begin to boil, a thickening of arrow-root or of rice-flour, (see page 4) mixed with as much cayenne and salt as may be required to flavour the soup well, and serve it very hot. If stewed down until the flesh falls away from the bones, the ox-tails will make stock which will be quite a firm jelly when cold; and this, strained, thickened, and well flavoured with spices, catsup, or a little wine, would, to many tastes, be a superior soup to the above. ta ee A CHAP. It.] FISH. 59 plenty of boiling lard; or merely well floured and fried from eight to ten minutes. When the fish are not very large, they are sometimes boned without being parted in the middle, and each side is rolled from the tail to the head, after being first spread with pounded shrimps mixed with a third of their volume of butter, a few bread-crumbs, and a high season- ing of mace and cayenne; or with pounded lobster mixed with a large portion of the coral, and the same seasoning, and propor- tion of butter as the shrimps; then laid into a dish, with the ingredients directed for the soles au plat ; well covered with - crumbs of bread-and clarified butter, and baked from twelve to sixteen minutes, or until the crumbs are coloured to a fine brown in a moderate oven. The fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of uniform size, lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne, salt and flour, and fried in butter over a brisk fire; then well drained, and sauced with a good bechamel, flavoured with a teaspoonful of minced parsley. BAKED SoLEs. (Soles au plat.) coon. Clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter, and pour it into the dish in which the fish are to be served ; add to it a little salt, some cayenne, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and from one to two glasses of sherry, or of any other dry white wine ; lay in a couple of fine soles which have been well cleaned and wiped very dry, strew over them a thick layer of fine bread-crumbs, moisten them with clarified butter, set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake the fish a quarter of an hour. A layer of shrimps placed between the soles is a great improvement; and we would also recommend a little lemon-juice to be mixed with the sauce. Baked, 15 minutes. Obs.—The soles are, we think, better without the wine in this receipt. They require but a small portion of liquid, which might be supplied by a little additional butter, a spoonful of water or pale gravy, the lemon-juice, and store-sauce. Minced parsley may be mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked. SOLES STEWED IN CREAM. Prepare some very fresh middling sized soles with exceeding nicety, put them into boiling water slightly salted, and simmer them for two minutes only ; lift them out, and let them drain ; lay them into a wide stewpan with as much sweet rich cream as” will nearly cover them ; add a good seasoning of pounded mace, 60 . MODERN COOKERY: cayenne, and salt; stew the fish softly from six to ten minutes, or until the flesh parts readily from the bones; dish them, stir the juice of half a lemon to the sauce, pour it over the soles, and send them immediately ‘to table. Some lemon-rind may be boiled in the cream, if approved; and a small teaspoonful of arrow-root, very smoothly mixed with a little milk, may be stirred to the sauce (should it require thickening) before the lemon-juice is added. Turbot and brill also may be dressed by this receipt, time, proportioned to their size, being of course. allowed for them. Soles, 3 or 4: boiled in water 2 minutes. Cream, 3 to whole pint ; salt, mace, cayenne: fish stewed, 6 to 10 minutes. Juice of half a lemon. Obs.—In Cornwall the fish is laid at once into thick clotted cream, and stewed entirely in it ;-but this method gives to the sauce, which ought to be extremely delicate, a coarse fishy flavour which the previous boil in water prevents. At Penzance, grey mullet, after being scaled, are divided in the middle, just covered with cold water, and softly boiled, with the addition of branches of parsley, pepper, and salt, until the fiesh of the back parts easily from the bone; clotted cream, minced parsley, and lemon-juice are then added to the sauce, and the mullet are dished with the heads and tails laid even to the thick parts of the back, where the fish were cut asunder. Hake, too, is there divided at every joint (having previously been scaled), dipped into egg, then thickly covered with fine bread-crumbs mixed with plenty of minced parsley, and fried a fine brown. TO FRY WHITINGS. In full season from Michaelmas to beginning of February. Clean, skin, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fasten their tails to their mouths, brush them equally over with beaten eggs, and cover them with the finest bread-crumbs, mixed with a little flour ; fry them a clear golden brown in plenty of boiling lard, drain and dry them well, dish them on a hot napkin and serve them with good melted butter, and. the sauce cruets, or with well made shrimp or anchovy sauce. A small half-teaspoonful of salt should be beaten up with the eggs used in preparing the whitings: two will be sufficient for half a dozen fish. 5 to 8 minutes, according to their size. FILLETS OF WHITINGS. Empty and wash thoroughly, but do not skin the fish. Take off the flesh on both sides close to the bones, passing the knife [omar 1. a ‘ 7 ttt oe NP OT ae ee Pats i FU Sieg eee ree . " Ls ry. or } CHAP, 11. ] FISH. 61 from the tail to the head; divide each side in two, trim the fillets into good shape, fold them in a cloth, that the moisture may be well absorbed from them; dip them into, or draw them through, some beaten egg, then dip them into fine crumbs mixed with a small portion of flour, and fry them a fine light brown, in lard or clarified butter ; drain them well, press them in white blotting-paper, dish them one over the other in a circle, and send the usual sauce to table with them. The fillets may also be broiled after being dipped into eggs seasoned with salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread, then next into clarified butter, and a second time into the bread-crumbs (or, to shorten the process, a portion of clarified butter may be mixed with the eggs at first), and served with good melted butter, or thickened veal gravy, seasoned with cayenne, lemon-juice, and chopped parsley. Five minutes will fry the fillets, even when very large: rather more time will be required to broil them. TO BOIL WHITINGS. (French Receipt.) Having scraped, cleaned, and wiped them, lay them on a fish-plate, and put them into water at the point of boiling; throw in a handful of salt, two bay leaves, and plenty of parsley, well washed, and tied together; let the fish just semmer rom five to ten minutes, and watch them closely that they may not be over-done. Serve parsley and butter with them, and ae in making it the liquor in which the whitings have been oiled. Just simmered from 5 to 10 minutes. BAKED WHITINGS A LA FRANCAISE. Proceed with these exactly as with baked soles, page 59, or, _ pour a little clarified butter into a deep dish, and strew it rather thickly with finely-minced mushrooms, mixed with a teaspoonful of parsley, and (when the flavour is liked, and considered appro- priate) with an eschalot or two, or the white part of a few green onions, also chopped very small. On these place the fish, after they have been scaled, emptied, thoroughly washed, and wiped dry : season them well with salt, and white pepper, or cayenne; sprinkle more of the herbs upon them ; pour gently from one to two glasses of light white wine into the dish, cover the whitings with a thick layer of fine crumbs of bread, sprinkle these plenti- fully with clarified butter,and bake the fish from fifteen to twenty minutes. Send a cut lemon only to table with them. When the wine is not liked, a few spoonsful of pale veal gravy can be 62 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. 11. can be used instead; or a larger quantity of clarified butter, with a tablespoonful of water, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle and of mushroom catsup, and a few drogs of soy. 15 to 20 minutes. | TO BOIL)MACKEREL. In full season in May, June, and July; may be had also in eazly spring. Open the fish sufficiently to admit of the insides being per- fectly cleansed, but not more than is necessary for this purpose ; empty them with care, lay the roes apart, and wash both them and the mackerel delicately clean. It is customary now to lay these, and the greater number of other fish as well, into cold water when they are to be boiled; formerly all were plunged at once into fast-boiling water. for such as are small and deli- cate, it should be’ warm, but not scalding; they should be brought gently to a soft boil, and simmered until they are done ; the scum should be cleared off as it rises, and the usual propor- tion of salt stirred into the water before the mackerel are put in. “The roes are commonly replaced in the fish, but as they some- times require more boiling than the mackerel themselves, it is better, when they are very large, to lay them upon the drainer. by their sides. From fifteen to twenty minutes will generally be sufficient to boil a full-sized mackerel: some will be done in less time, but they must be watched, and lifted out as soon as the tails split, and the eyes are starting. Dish them on a napkin, and send.fennel or gooseberry sauce to table with them, and plain melted butter also. . Small mackerel, 10 to. 15 minutes; large, 15 to 20 minutes. TO BAKE MACKEREL. After they have been cleaned and well washed, wipe them very dry, fill the insides with the forcemeat, No. 1 of Chapter VI. sew them up, arrange them, with the roes, closely together in a coarse baking-dish, flour them lightly, strew a little fine salt over, and stick bits of butter upon them; or pour some equally over them, after having just dissolved it in a small saucepan. Half an hour in a moderate oven will bake them. Oyster forcemeat is always appropriate for any kind of fish which is in season, while the oysters are so; but the mackerel are commonly served, and are very good with that which we have named. Lift them carefully into a hot dish after they are taken from the oven, and send melted butter, and the sauce cruets to table with them. 4 hour. LS CHAP. It.] ON a yh 63 Obs.—The dish in which they are baked, should be buttered before they are laid in. ; FRIED MACKEREL. (Common French Receipt.) After the fish have been emptied and washed extremely clean, cut off the heads and tails, split the bodies quite open, and take out the backbones ;* wipe the mackerel very dry, dust fine salt, and pepper (or cayenne), over them, flour them well, fry them a fine brown in boiling lard, drain them thoroughly, and serve them with the following sauce :—Dissolve in a small saucepan an ounce and a half of butter smoothly mixed with a teaspoon- ful of flour, some salt, pepper, and cayenne, shake these over a gentle fire until they are lightly coloured, then add by slow degrees nearly half a pint of good broth, or gravy, and the juice of one large lemon: boil the sauce for a couple of minutes, and serve it very hot. Or, instead of this, add a large teaspoonful of strong made-mustard, and a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, | to some thick melted butter, and serve it with the fish. A spoonful of Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, can be mixed with this last, at pleasure. FILLETS OF MACKEREL. (Fried or Broiled.) Take off the flesh quite whole on either side, from three fine mackerel, which have been opened and properly cleaned ; let it be entirely free from bone, dry it well in a cloth, then divide each part in two, and dip them into the beaten yolks ofa couple of eggs, seasoned with salt and white pepper or cayenne ; cover them equally with fine dry crumbs of bread, and fry them like soles; or dip them into clarified butter, and then again into the crumbs, and broil them over a very clear fire of a fine brown. Dish them in a circle one over the other, and send them to table with the Maitre d’Hotel sauce of Chapter IV., or with the one which follows it. The French pour the sauce into the centre of the dish; but for broiled fillets this is not so well, we think, as serving it in a tureen. The roes of the fish, after being well “washed and soaked, may be dressed with them, or they may be made into patties. Minced parsley can be mixed with the bread- crumbs when it is liked. BOILED FILLETS OF MACKEREL. After having taken off and divided the flesh of the fish, as * We recommend in preference that the flesh of the fish should be taken off the bones as in the following receipt. a twin . a ae \ A G4 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP, IL. above, place it flat in one layer in a wide stewpan or saucepan, and just cover the fillets with cold water; throw in a teaspoon- ful of salt, and two or three small sprigs of parsley. Bring the mackerel slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with care, and after two or three minutes of slow simmering, try the fillets with | afork; if the thick part divides with a touch, they are done. Lift them out cautiously with a slice; drain, and serve them very hot with good parsley and butter; or strip off the skin quickly, and pour a Maitre d’ Hotel sauce over them. MACKEREL BROILED WHOLE. (An excellent Receipt.) Empty, and cleanse perfectly a fine and very fresh mackerel, but without opening it more than is needful; dry it well, either in a cloth, or by hanging it in a cool air until it is stiff; make, with a sharp knife, a deep incision the whole length of the fish, on either side of the back bone, and about half an inch from it, and with a feather put in a little cayenne and fine salt, mixed with a few drops of good salad oil or clarified butter. Lay the mackerel over a moderate fire upon a well heated gridiron, which has been rubbed with suet; loosen it gently should it stick, which it will do unless often moved; and when it is equally done on both sides, turn the back to the fire. About half an hour will broil it well. If a sheet of thickly-buttered writing-paper be folded round it, and just twisted at the ends before it is laid on the gridiron, it will be finer eating than if exposed to the fire; but sometimes when this is done, the skin will adhere to the paper, and be drawn off with it, which injures its appearance. A cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce (see Chap- ter [V.), may be put into the back before it is sent to table. This is one of the very best modes of dressing a mackerel, which in flavour is quite a different fish when thus prepared to one which is simply boiled. A drop of oil is sometimes passed over the skin to prevent its sticking to the iron. It may be laid to the fire after having been merely cut as we have directed, when it is preferred so. 30 minutes; 25 if small. MACKEREL STEWED WITH WINE. (Very good.) Work very smoothly together a large teaspoonful of flour with two ounces of butter, put them into a stewpan, and stir or shake them round over the fire until the butter is dissolved ; add a quarter-teaspoonful of mace, twice as much salt, and some eS a ek CHAP. 11.] BISH 59 | 65 cayenne; pour in by slow degrees three glasses of claret, and when the sauce boils, lay in a couple of fine mackerel, weil cleaned, and wiped quite dry; stew them very softly from fifteen to twenty minutes, and turn them when half done; lift them out, and dish them carefully; stir a teaspoonful of made- mustard to the’ sauce, give it a boil, and pour it over the fish. When more convenient, substitute port wine and a little lemon- juice, for the claret. . “ Mackerel, 2; flour, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 2 ozs.; seasonin of salt, mace, and cayenne; claret, 3 glassesful ; made-mustard, 1 teaspoonful: 15 to 20 minutes. FILLETS OF MACKEREL STEWED IN WINE, (Hacellent.) Raise the flesh entire from the bones on either side of the mackerel, and divide it once, if the fish be small, but cut the whole into six parts of equal size should they be large. Mix with flour, and dissolve the butter as in the preceding receipt, and when it has simmered for a minute throw in the spice, a little salt, and the thinly pared rind of half a small fresh lemon; lay in the fillets of fish, shake them over a gentle fire from four to five minutes, and turn them once in the time; then pour to them in small portions a couple of large glassesful of port wine, a tablespoonful of Harvey’s sauce, should it be at hand, a teaspoonful of soy, and one of lemon-juice; stew the mackerel very softly until the thinner parts begin to break, lift them out with care, dish and serve them in their sauce as hot as possible. We can recommend the dish to our readers as a very excellent one. A garnish of fried sippets can be placed round the fish at will. A teaspoonful of made-mustard should be stirred to the -sauce before it is poured over the fish. Mackerel, 2; butter, 2 ozs.; flour, 1 teaspoonful; rind of 3 lemon ; salt, cayenne, pounded mace: 2 minutes. Fish, 4 to 5 minutes. Port wine, 2 large glassesful; Harvey’s sauce, 1 tablespoonful ; soy and lemon-juice each, 1 teaspoonful: 4 to 6 minutes. Mustard, 1 teaspoonful. Obs.—Trout may be dressed by this receipt. / TO BOIL HADDOCKS. In the best season in October, November, and December. ‘Scrape the outsides very clean, open the fish, empty them, wash the insides thoroughly, take out the gills, curl the had- docks round, fasten the tails to the mouths, arrange them on a fish-plate, and lay them into warm water salted as for mackerel, . F 66 _ MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. 11. with a very small bit of saltpetre to render them firm. Skim the water, and simmer them from seven to ten minutes, accord- ing to their size. Send them very hot to table, with a tureen of — melted butter, and one of anchovy sauce. 7 to 10 minutes. Obs.—In Scotland, haddocks are skinned before they are boiled, and the heads taken off, but we see no advantage in this mode of dressing them. Whitings, fresh herrings, and codlings, _ may all be dressed by this receipt, the time only being varied — according to the size of the fish. BAKED HADDOCKS. After they have been cleaned, dry them thoroughly, then bake them, as directed in the common receipt for pike, or fill them with oyster-forcemeat, or with No. 1. of Chapter IV., if more convenient, and proceed as for baked mackerel. 20 to 30 minutes; longer if very large. TO FRY HADDOCKS. Follow the directions given for fillets of whitings, or should a more simple method be preferred, clean and dry the fish well, cut off the heads and tails, take out the backbones, cut each fish in three, egg and crumb them, fry them in boiling lard a fine golden brown, and serve them, well drained and dried, with the same sauces as boiled haddocks. TO DRESS FINNAN HADDOCKS. These are slightly salted, and dried. They are excellent eating, if gently heated through upon the gridiron without ‘being hardened, and are served usually as a relish at the break- fast or supper table; a feather dipped in oil may be passed over them before they are laid to the fire. FRESH HERRINGS. (Farleigh Receipt.) ’ In season from May to October. Scale and clean the fish with the utmost nicety, split them quite open, and wash the insides with particular care ; dry them well in a cloth, take off the heads and tails, and remove the backbones; rub the insides with pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace ; stick small bits of butter on them and skewer two of the fish together as flat as possible, with the skin of both outside ; flour, and broil or fry them of a fine brown, and serve them CHAP. I1.] FISH. 67 with melted butter mixed with a teaspoonful or more of mustard, some salt, and a little vinegar or lemon-juice. To broil from 20 to 25 minutes ; to fry about 10 minutes. TO BOIL PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS. Plaice in season from May to January; flounders in September, October, and November. After having emptied and well-cleaned the fish, make an inci- sion in the back as directed for turbot; lay them into cold spring water ; add salt, and saltpetre in the same proportion as for cod fish, and let them just simmer for four or five minutes after the water first begins to boil, or longer, should their size require it, but guard against their being broken. Serve them with plain melted butter. 4 to 5 minutes; longer if needful. TO FRY PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS. Sprinkle them with salt, and let them lie for two or three hours before they are dressed. Wash and clean them tho- roughly, wipe them very dry, flour them well, and wipe them again with a clean cloth; dip them into egg, and fine bread- crumbs, and fry them in plenty of lard. If the fish be large, raise the flesh in handsome fillets from the bones, and finish them as directed for fillets of soles. Obs.—Plaice is said to be rendered less watery by beating it gently with a paste-roller before it is cooked. It is very sweet and pleasant in flavour while it is in the best season, which is from the end of May to about September. - TO ROAST, BAKE, OR BROIL RED MULLET. In best season through the summer: may be had all the year. First wash, and then dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, but neither scale nor open it; wrap it closely in a sheet of thickly buttered paper, tie this securely at the ends, and over the mullet with packthread, and roast it in a Dutch oven, or broil it over a clear and gentle fire, or bake it in a moderate oven : from twenty to thirty minutes will be sufficient generally to dress it in either way, if it be only of moderate size. For sauce, put into a little good melted butter the liquor which has flowed from fish, a small dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies, some cayenne, a glass of port wine, or claret, and a little lemon- juice. Remove the packthread, and send the mullet to table in 68 MODERN COOKERY. [cmar. 1. the paper case. This is the usual mode of serving it; but it is dished without the paper, for dinners of high taste. 20 to 30 minutes. TO BOIL GREY MULLET. This fish varies so much in size and quality, that it is difficult — to give exact directions for the time of cooking it. When quite young and small, it may be boiled by the receipt for whitings, haddocks, and other fish of about their size; but at its finest growth it must be laid into cold water, and managed like larger fish. We have ourselves partaken of one which was caught upon our eastern coast, that weighed ten pounds, of which the flesh was quite equal to that of salmon, but its weight was, we believe, an unusual one. Anchovy, or caper fish sauce, with melted butter, may be sent to table with grey mullet. TO FRY SMELTS.. In season from beginning of November to May. Smelts when quite fresh have a perfume resembling that of a cucumber, and a peculiarly delicate and agreeable flavour when dressed. Draw them at the gills, as they must not be opened ; wash and dry them thoroughly in a cloth; dip them into beaten egg-yolk, and then into the finest bread~crumbs, mixed with a small quantity of flour; fry them of a clear golden brown, and serve them very crisp and dry, with good melted butter in a tureen. They are sometimes dipped into batter and then fried; when this is done, we would recommend for them the French batter of Chapter IV. 3 to 4 minutes. BAKED SMELTS. Prepare them as for frying; pour some clarified butter into the dish in which they are to be sent to table, arrange them neatly in it, with the tails meeting in the centre, strew over them as much salt, mace, and cayenne, mixed, as will season them agreeably, cover them smoothly with a rather thick layer of very fine bread-crumbs, moisten them equally with clarified butter poured through a small strainer, and bake the fish in a moderately quick oven, until the crumbs are of a fine light brown. ). ee oe | ee vr . : % 114 MODERN COOKERY. . [cuar. Iv. yenne, or white pepper. Mix gradually with them, working the whole well together, two or three tablespoonsful of oil and two of vinegar. Should the sauce be curdled, pour it by degrees to the yolk of a raw egg, stirring it well round as directed for the Mayonnaise. A spoonful of tarragon, cucumber, or eschalot- vinegar, may be added with very good effect; and to give it increased relish, a teaspoonful of cavice, or a little of Harvey’s sauce, and a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar may be thrown: into it. This last is an excellent addition to all cold sauces, or salad dressings: the Rajah’s sauce (see Appendix), when good, is of finer flavour, and more pungent. Hard yolks of 2 or of 3 eggs; mustard, 1 teaspoonful (more when liked); salt, 4 teaspoonful; pepper or cayenne; oil, 3 tablespoonsful; vinegar, 2. If curdled, yolk of 1 raw egg. Good additions: tarragon or eschalot, or cucumber-vinegar, 1 tablespoonful ; Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful, or Rajah’s sauce, halfas much. Cavice or Harvey’s sauce at pleasure. Obs.—A. dessertspoonful of eschalots very finely minced are sometimes pounded with the yolks of eggs for this sauce: a morsel of garlic, not larger than half a hazel nut, may be sub- stituted for them advantageously. FENNEL SAUCE. Strip from the stems, wash very clean, and boil quickly in salt and water untilitis quite tender, a handful of young fennel; press the water well from it, mince it very small, and mix it gradually. with the quantity of melted butter required for table: Fennel, small handful; 10 minutes, or until quite tender. Melted butter, 1 to 3 pint; little salt. Obs.—The French use good pale veal gravy thickened with flour and butter for this sauce. PARSLEY AND BUTTER. Proceed exactly as for the fennel, but boil the parsley four or five minutes less; and be careful to press the water from it tho- roughly. For an improved sauce, substitute béchamel or white melted butter for the common melted butter. Chervil is boiled, chopped, and mixed with gravy, or with butter in the same way. Melted butter, or thickened veal gravy, third of pint ; parsley, boiled and minced, 1 dessertspoontful. CHAP. IV. ] . SAUCES! 1/05" 115 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR MACKEREL. Cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite young gooseberries, wash them well, just cover them with cold water and boil them very gently indeed until they are tender ; drain them well, and mix with them a small quantity of melted butter made with rather less flour than usual. Some eaters prefer the mashed gooseberries without any addition; others like that of a little ginger. The best way of making this sauce is to turn the gooseberries into a hair-sieve to drain, then to press them through it with a wooden spoon, and to stir them in a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire with from half toa whole teaspoonful of sugar, just to soften their extreme acidity, and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut. When the fruit is not passed through the sieve it is an improvement to seed it. COMMON SORREL SAUCE. Strip from the stalks and the large fibres, from one to a couple of quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel; wash it very clean, and put it into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan (or into a German enamelled one, which would be far better), without any water ; add to it a small slice of good butter, some pepper and salt, and stew it gently, keeping it well stirred, until it is exceedingly tender, that it may not burn; then drain it ona sieve, or press the liquid well from it; chop it as fine as_pos- sible ; and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two of gravy, or the same quantity of cream or milk, mixed with a half-teaspoonful of flour, or with only a fresh slice of good butter. The beaten yolk of an egg or two stirred in just as the sorrel is taken from the fire will soiten the sauce greatly, and a saltspoonful of pounded sugar will also be an improvement. ASPARAGUS SAUCE, FOR LAMB CHOPS. Cut the green tender points of some young asparagus into half-inch lengths, wash them well, drain and throw them into plenty of boiling salt and water. When they are quite tender, which may be in from ten to fifteen minutes, turn them into a hot strainer and drain the water thoroughly from them; put them, at the instant of serving, into half a pint of thickened veal gravy (see Sauce Tournée), mixed with the yolks of a couple of eggs, and well seasoned with salt and cayenne, or white pepper; or, into an equal quantity of good melted butter: add to this. last a squeeze of lemon-juice. ‘The asparagus will 116 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv. ~ ‘become yellow if reboiled, or if left long in the sauce before it is served. Asparagus points, 3 pint: boiled 10 to 15 minutes, longer if not quite tender. Thickened veal gravy, 3} pint; yolks of egos, 2. Or: good melted butter, } pint; lemon-juice, small dessertspoonful, seasoning of salt and white pepper. GREEN MINT SAUCE, FOR ROAST LAMB. The mint for this sauce should be fresh and young, for the leaves when old are tough. Strip them from the stems, wash them with great nicety, and drain them on a sieve or dry them in a cloth. Chop them very fine, put them into a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped tablespoonsful of the mint add two of pounded sugar; mix them well, and then add gradually six tablespoonsful of good vinegar. The sauce made thus is excellent, but Lisbon sugar can be used for it when preferred, and all the proportions can be varied to the taste. It is com- monly served too liquid, and not sufficiently sweetened ; and it will be found much more wholesome, and generally far more palatable made by this receipt. Young mint minced, 3 heaped tablespoonsful ; pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonsful; vinegar, 6 tablespoonsful. CAPER SAUCE. Stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three to four dessertspoonsful of capers; add a little of the vinegar, and dish the sauce as soon as it boils. Keep it stirred after the berries are added: part of them may be minced and a little Chili vinegar substituted for their own. Pickled nasturtiums make a very good sauce, and their flavour is sometimes pre- ferred to that of the capers. For a large joint, increase the quantity of butter to half a pint. Melted butter, third of pint; capers, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful. BROWN CAPER SAUCE. Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed for Sauce Tournée, and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers, and a dessertspoonful of the pickle liquor, or of Chili vinegar, Ma cayenne if the former be used, and a proper seasoning of salt. Thickened veal, or beef gravy, 3 pint; capers, 2 tablespoons- ful; caper-liquor or Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful, CHAP. Iv.] SAUCES. 117 CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. To nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six spoonsful of strong veal gravy or jelly, atablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and some Chili vinegar or cayenne. When there is no gravy at hand substitute a half wineglassful of mushroom catsup, or of Harvey’s sauce; though these deepen the colour more than is desirable. COMMON CUCUMBER SAUCE. Pare, slice, dust slightly with pepper, and with flour, two or three young cucumbers, and fry them a fine brown, in a little butter, or dissolve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan, or iron saucepan, and shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve to fifteen minutes ; pour to them, by degrees, nearly half a pint of strong beef broth, or of brown gravy ; add salt, and more pepper if required; stew the whole for five minutes, and send the sauce very hot to table. A minced onion may be browned with the cucumbers when it is liked, and a spoonful of vinegar added to them before they are served. Cucumbers, 2 or 3; butter, 14 0z.; broth or gravy, nearly 4 pint ; salt, pepper. ANOTHER COMMON SAUCE OF CUCUMBERS. Cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sauce. Pare and slice a couple, or three, should they be small, and put them into a saucepan, in which two ounces, or rather more, of butter have been dissolved, and are beginning to boil; place them high over the fire, that they may stew as softly as possible without taking colour, for three quarters of an hour, or longer should they require it; add to them a good seasoning of white pepper, and some salt, when they are half done, and just before they are served stir to them half a teaspoonful of flour, mixed with a morsel of butter; strew in some minced parsley, give it a boil, and finish with a spoonful of good vinegar. WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. Quarter some young quickly grown cucumbers, without many seeds in them; empty them of these, and take off the rinds. Cut them into inch lengths, and boil them from fifteen to eighteen minutes in salt and water; squeeze, and work them through a sieve; mix them with a few spoonsful of béchamel, or thick white sauce; do not let them doz! again, but serve them very hot. A sauce of better flavour is made by boiling the cucumbers in veal 118 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv. gravy well seasoned, and stirring in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs, and a little Chili vinegar or lemon-juice, at the in- stant of serving. Another also of cucumbers sliced, and stewed in butter, but without being at all browned, and then boiled ir pale veal gravy, which must be thickened with rich cream, i excellent. A morsel of sugar improves this sauce. Cucumbers, 3: 15 to 18 minutes. White sauce, } pint. WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. Cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button mushrooms; clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel, and throw them into cold water, slightly salted, as they are done; drain them well, or dry them in a soft cloth, and throw them into half a pint of boiling béchamel (see page 97), or of white sauce made with very fresh milk, or thin cream, ‘thickened, with a tablespoonful of flour, and two ounces of butter. Sim- mer the mushrooms from ten to twenty minutes, or until they are quite tender, and dish the sauce, which should be properly seasoned with salt, mace, and cayenne. Mushrooms, } pint; white sauce, 4 pint; seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne: 10 minutes. ANOTHER MUSHROOM SAUCE. Prepare from half to a whole pint of very small mushroom- buttons with great nicety, and throw them into as much sauce tournée; when they are tender add a few spoonsful of rich cream, give the whole a boil, and serve it. Hither of these sauces may be sent to table with boiled poultry, breast of veal, or veal-cutlets: the sauce tournée should be thickened rather more than usual when it is to be used in this receipt. | Mushrooms and sauce tournée each, } to whole pint : stewed tilltender. Cream, 4 to 8 tablespoonsful. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. * Very small flaps, peeled and freed entirely from the fur, will answer for this sauce. Leave them whole, or quarter them, and stew them tender in some rich brown gravy; give a full season- ing of mace and cayenne, add thickening, and salt if needed, and a tablespoonful of good mushroom catsup. COMMON TOMATA SAUCE. Tomatas are so juicy when ripe, that they require but little liquid to reduce them to a proper consistency for sauce; and CHAP. iv.] ) <2 SAUCES. 119 they vary so exceedingly in size and quality that it is difficult to give precise directions for the exact quantity which is needed for them. Take off the stalks, halve the tomatas, and gently squeeze out the seeds and watery pulp; then stew them softly with a few spoonsful of gravy or of strong broth until they are quite melted. Press the whole through a hair-sieve, and heat it afresh with a little additional gravy should it be too thick, and some cayenne, and salt. Serve it very hot. Fine ripe tomatas, 6 or 8; gravy or strong broth, 4 table- — spoonsful: 3 to $ hour, or longer if needed. Salt and cayenne sufficient to season the sauce, and two or three spoonsful more of gravy if required. Obs.—For a large tureen of this sauce, increase the propor- tions; and should it be at first too liquid, reduce it by quick boiling. , When neither gravy nor broth is at hand, the tomatas may be stewed perfectly tender, but very gently, in a couple of ounces of butter, with some cayenne and salt only, or with the addition of a very little finely minced onion; then rubbed through a sieve, and heated, and served without any addition, or with only that of a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar; or, when the colour is not a principal consideration, with a few spoonsful of rich cream, smoothly mixed with a little flour to prevent its curdling. ‘The sauce must be stirred without ceasing should the last be added, and boiled for four or five minutes. A FINER TOMATA SAUCE. Stew very gently a dozen fine red tomatas, prepared as for the preceding receipt, with two or three sliced eschalots, four or five chilies, or a capsicum or two, or in lieu of either, with a quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a few small dice of lean ham, and half a cupful of rich gravy. Stir these often, and when the tomatas are reduced quite to a smooth pulp, press them through a sieve; put them into a clean saucepan, with a few spoonsful more of rich gravy, or Espagnole, add salt, if needed, boil the sauce, stirring it well, for ten minutes, and serve it very hot. When the gravy is exceedingly good, and highly flavoured, the ham may be omitted: a dozen small mushrooms, nicely cleaned, may also be sliced, and stewed with the tomatas, instead of the eschalots, when their flavour is pre- ferred, or they may be added with them. The exact proportion of liquid used is immaterial, for should the sauce be too thin, it may be reduced by rapid boiling, and diluted with more gravy if too thick. ¢ 120 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. BOILED APPLE SAUCE. Apples of a fine cooking sort require but a very small portion of liquid to boil down well and smoothly for sauce, if placed over a gentle fire in a close-shutting saucepan, and simmered as softly as possible, until they are well broken; and their flavour is injured by the common mode of adding so much to them, that the . greater part must be drained off again before they are sent to table. Pare the fruit quickly, quarter it, and be careful entirely to remove the cores; put one tabiespoonful of water into a saucepan before the apples are thrown in; and proceed, as we have directed, to simmer them until they are nearly ready to serve: finish the sauce by the receipt which follows. Apples, 3 lb.; water, 1 tablespoonful; stewed very softly : 30 to 60 minutes. Obs.—These proportions are sufficient only for a small tureen of the sauce, and should be doubled for a large one. BAKED APPLE SAUCE. (Good.) Put a tablespoonful of water into a quart basin, and fill it with good boiling apples, pared, quartered, and carefully cored: put a plate over, and set them into a moderate oven for about an hour, or until they are reduced quite to a pulp ; beat them smooth with a clean wooden spoon, adding to them a little sugar, and a morsel of fresh butter, when these are liked, though they will scarcely be required. The sauce made thus is far superior to that which is boiled. When no other oven is at hand, a Dutch or an American one would probably answer for it; but we cannot assert this on our own experience. Good boiling apples, 1 quart: baked, 1 hour (more or less according to the quality of the fruit, and temperature of the oven); sugar, 1 oz.; butter, 4 oz. BROWN APPLE SAUCE. Stew gently down to a thick and perfectly smooth marmalade, a pound of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured boiling apples, in about the third of a pint of rich brown gravy : season the sauce rather highly with black pepper or cayenne, and serve it very hot. Currie sauce will make an excellent substitute for the gravy when a very piquante accompaniment is wanted for pork or other rich meats. CHAP. Iv. | SAUCES. 121 __Apples pared and cored, 1 lb.; good brown gravy, third of pint: ?to1j hour. Pepper or cayenne as needed. WHITE ONION SAUCE. Strip the skin from some large white onions, and after having taken off the tops and roots, cut them in two, throw them into cold water as they are done, cover them plentifully with more, and boil them very tender; lift them out, drain, and then press the water thoroughly from them; chop them small, rub them through a sieve or strainer, put them into a little rich melted butter, mixed with a spoonful or two of cream or milk, add a seasoning of salt, give the sauce a boil, and serve it very hot. Portugal onions, when they can be obtained, are superior to any others, both for this and for most other purposes of cookery. For the finest kind of onion sauce, see Soubise, below. BROWN ONION SAUCE. Cut off both ends of the onions, and slice them into a sauce- pan in which two ounces of butter have been dissolved; keep them stewing over a clear fire until they are lightly coloured ; then pour to them half a pint of brown gravy, and when they have boiled until they are perfectly tender, work the sauce alto- gether through a strainer, season it with a little cayenne, and serve it very hot. ANOTHER BROWN ONION SAUCE. Mince the onions, stew them in butter until well coloured, stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, shake the stewpan over the fire for three or four minutes, pour in only as much broth or gravy as will leave the sauce tolerably thick, season, and serve it. SOUBISE. (English Receipt.) Skin, slice, and mince quickly, two pounds’ weight of the white part only of some fine mild onions, and stew them in from two to.three ounces of good butter, over a very gentle fire, until they are reduced to a pulp, then pour to them three quarters of a pint of rich veal gravy ; add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, if needed ; skim off the fat entirely, press the sauce through a sieve, heat it in a clean stewpan, mix it with a quarter-pint of rich boiling cream, and serve it directly. Onions, 2 lbs.; butter, 2 to 3 ozs.: 30 minutes to 1 hour. Veal gravy, } pint; salt, cayenne: 5 minutes. Cream, 4 pint. 122 MODERN. COOKERY. [cHAP. Iv. SOUBISE. (French Recezpt.) Peel some fine white onions, and trim away all tough an discoloured parts; mince them small, and throw them into plenty of boiling water ; when they have boiled quickly for five minutes, drain them well in a sieve, then stew them very softly indeed in an ounce or two of fresh butter, until they are dry and perfectly tender ; stir to them as much béchamel as will bring them to the consistency of very thick peas soup, pass the whole through a strainer, pressing the onion strongly that none may remain behind, and heat the sauce afresh, without allowing it to boil. A small half-teaspoonful of pounded sugar is sometimes added to this soubise. White part of onions, 2 lbs.: blanched 5 minutes. Butter, 2 ozs.: 30 to 50 minutes. Béchamel, 2 to 1 pint, or more. Obs.—These sauces are served more particularly with lamb or mutton cutlets, than with any other meats; but they would probably find many approvers if sent to table with roast mutton, or boiled veal. Half the quantity given above will be sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. MILD RAGOUT OF GARLIC, OR, L'AIL A LA BORDELAISE. Divide some fine cloves of garlic, strip off the skin, and when all are ready, throw them into plenty of boiling water, slightly salted; in five minutes drain this from them, and pour in as much more, which should also be quite boiling; continue to change it every five or six minutes until the garlic is quite tender ; throw in a moderate proportion of salt the last time to give it the proper flavour. Drain it thoroughly, and serve it in the dish with roast mutton, or put it into good brown gravy, or white sauce for table. By changing very frequently the water in which it is boiled, the root will be deprived of its naturally pungent flavour and smell, and rendered extremely mild ; when it is not wished to be quite so much so, change the water every ten minutes only. Garlic, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes or more. Water to be changed every 5 or 6 minutes; or every 10 minutes when not wished so very mild. Gravy or sauce, | pint. MILD ESCHALOT SAUCE. | Prepare and boil from half to a whole pint of eschalots by the preceding receipt; unless very large, they will be tender in about fifteen minutes, sometimes in less, in which case the water CHAP. IV. | "SAUCES. 123 must be poured from them shortly after it has been changed for the second time. When grown in a suitable soil, and cultivated with care, the eschalots are sometimes treble the size that they are under other circumstances; and this difference must be allowed for in boiling them. Drain them well, and mix them with white sauce or gravy, or with good melted butter, and serve them very hot. A FINE SAUCE, OR PUREE OF VEGETABLE MARROW. Pare one or two half grown marrows and cut out all the seeds ; take a pound of the vegetable, and slice it with one ounce of mild onion, into a pint of strong veal broth or of pale gravy , stew them very softly for nearly or quite an hour; add ‘alt and cayenne, or white pepper, when they are nearly done; press the whole through a fine and delicately clean hair-sieve ; heat it afresh, and stir to it when it boils about the third of a pint of rich cream. Serve it with boiled chickens, stewed or boiled veal, lamb cutlets, or any other delicate meat. When to be served as a purée, an additional half pound of the vegetable must be used; and it should be dished with small fried sippets round it. For a maigre dish, stew the marrow and onion quite tender in butter, and dilute them with half boiling water and half cream. Vegetable marrow, 1 lb.; mild onion, 1 oz.; strong broth or pale gravy, 1 pint: nearly or quite 1 hour. Pepper or cayenne, and salt as needed; good cream from 4 to 4 of pint. For purée, 3 lb. more of marrow. EXCELLENT TURNIP, OR ARTICHOKE SAUCE FOR BOILED MEAT. Pare, slice, and boil quite tender, some finely-grained mild turnips, press the water from them thoroughly, and pass them through a sieve. Dissolve a slice of butter in a clean saucepan, and stir to it a large teaspoonful of flour, or mix them smoothly together before they are put in, and shake the saucepan round until they boil; pour to them very gradually, nearly a pint of thin cream (or of good milk mixed with a portion of cream), add the turnips with a half-teaspoonful or more of salt, and when the whole is well mixed and very hot, pour it over boiled mutton, veal, lamb, or poultry. There should be sufficient of the sauce to cover the meat entirely, and when properly made it improves greatly the appearance of a joint. A little cayenne tied in a muslin may be boiled in the milk before it is mixed with the turnips. Jerusalem artichokes make a more delicate 124 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. sauce of this kind even than turnips; the weight of both veget- ables must be taken after they are pared. Pared turnips or artichokes, 1 1b.; fresh butter, 13 oz. ; flour, 1 large teaspoonful (twice as much if all milk be used) ; salt, 3 teaspoonful or more ; cream, or cream and milk mixed, from % to 1 pint. OLIVE-SAUCE. Remove the stones from some fine French or Italian olives by paring the fruit close to them, round and round in the form of a corkscrew : they will then resume their original shape when done. Weigh six ounces thus prepared, throw them into boil- ing water, let them blanch for five minutes, drain, and throw them into cold water, and leave them in it from half an hour to an hour, proportioning the time to their saltness; drain them well, and stew them gently from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in a pint of very rich brown gravy, or Hspagnole (see Chapter IIL.): add the juice of half a lemon, and serve the sauce very hot. Half this quantity will be sufficient for a small party. Olives, stoned, 6 ozs.; rich gravy, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes. Juice, } lemon. Obs.—In France this sauce is served very commonly with ducks, and sometimes with beef-steaks, and stewed fowl. CELERY SAUCE. Slice the white part of from three to five heads of young tender celery ; peel it if not very young, and boil it in salt and water for twenty minutes. If for white sauce, put the celery, after it has been well drained, into half a pint of veal broth or gravy, and let it stew until it is quite soft; then add an ounce and a half of butter, mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour, and a quarter-pint of thick cream, or the yolks of three eggs. The French, after boiling the celery, which they cut very small, for about twenty minutes, drain, and chop it; then put it witha slice of butter into a stewpan, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; they keep these stirred over the fire for two or three minutes, and then dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour ; when this has lost its raw taste, they pour in a sufficiency of white gravy to moisten the celery, and to allow for twenty minutes’ longer boiling. A very good common celery sauce is made by simply stewing the celery, cut into inch-lengths, in butter, until it begins to be tender; and then adding a spoonful of flour, which must be allowed to brown a little, and half a LCC CHAP. Iv. ] SAUCES, 125 pint of good broth or beef gravy, with a seasoning of pepper o: cayenne. Celery, 3 to 5 heads: 20 minutes. Veal broth, or gravy, ! pint: 20 to 40 minutes. Butter, 1} 0z.; flour, 1 dessertspoon- ful ; cream, } pint, or three yolks of eggs. WHITE CHESTNUT SAUCE. Strip the outer rind from six ounces of sound, sweet chestnuts, then throw them into boiling water, and let them simmer for two or three minutes, when the second skin will easily peel off. Add to them three quarters of a pint of good cold veal gravy, and a few strips of lemon peel, and let them stew gently for an hour and a quarter. Press them, with the gravy, through a hair-sieve reversed, and placed over a deep dish or pan, as they are much more easily rubbed through thus than in the usual way: a wooden spoon should be used in preference to any other for the process. Add a little cayenne and mace, some salt if needed, and about six tablespoonsful of rich cream. Keep the sauce stirred until it boils, and serve it immediately. Chestnuts without their rinds, 6 ozs.; veal gravy, 3 pint; rind of } lemon: 13 hour. Salt; spice; cream, 6 tablespoons- ful. e, Obs.—This sauce may be served with turkey, with fowls, or with veal-cutlets stewed. BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE. Substitute rich brown gravy for the veal stock, omit the lemon-rind and cream, heighten the seasonings, and mix the chestnuts with a few spoonsful of Espagnole or highly flavoured gravy after they have been passed through the sieve. SWEET PUDDING SAUCE. Boil together for fifteen minutes the thin rind of half a small lemon, an ounce and a half of fine sugar, and a wineglassful of water; then take out the lemon-peel, and mix very smoothly an ounce of butter with rather more than a half-teaspoonful of flour, stir them round in the sauce until it has boiled one minute; next add a wineglassful and a half of sherry or Madeira, or two thirds of that quantity and a quarter-glass of brandy : when quite hot, serve the sauce. Port-wine sauce is made in the same way, with the addition of a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, some grated nutmeg, and a little more sugar: orange rind and juice may be used to give it flayour when preferred to lemon. 126 MODERN COOKERY. [cmap. rv. Rind } lemon; sugar, 11 0z.; water, 1 wineglassful: 15 minutes. Butter, 1 oz.; flour, large 4 teaspoonful: 1 minute. Wine, 14 wineglassful; or, 1 of wine, and 3 glass of brandy. PUNCH SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. This is a favourite sauce with custard, plain bread, and plum- puddings. With two ounces of sugar and a quarter-pint of water, boil very gently the rind of half a small lemon, and somewhat less of orange-peel, from fifteen to twenty minutes ; strain out the rinds, thicken the sauce with an ounce and a half of butter and nearly a teaspoonful of flour, add a half-glass of brandy, the same of white wine, two thirds of a glass of rum, with the juice of half an orange, and rather less of lemon- juice : serve the sauce very hot, but do not allow it to boil after the spirit is stirred in. Sugar, 2 ozs.; water, + pint; lemon and orange rind: 14 to 20 minutes. Butter, 14 0z.; flour, 1 teaspoonful; brandy and white wine each } wineglassful ; rum, two thirds of glassful; _ orange and lemon juice. COMMON PUDDING SAUCE. Poa Sweeten a quarter-pint of good melted butter with an ounce and a half of sugar, and add to it gradually a couple of glasses of wine; stir it until it is at the point of boiling, and serve it immediately. Lemon-grate, or nutmeg, can be added at pleasure. A DELICIOUS GERMAN PUDDING SAUCE. Dissolve in half a pint of sherry or of Madeira, from three to four ounces of fine sugar, but do not allow the wine to boil ; stir it hot to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and mill the sauce over a gentle fire until it is well thickened, and highly frothed ; pour it over a plum, or any other kind of sweet boiled pudding, of which it much improves the appearance. Half the quantity will be sufficient for one of moderate size. A small machine, resembling a chocolate mill, is used in Germany for frothing this sauce ; but a couple of silver forks, fastened to- gether at the handles, will serve for the purpose, on an emer- gency. We recommend the addition of a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice to the wine. For large pudding, sherry or Madeira, 3 pint; fine sugar, 3 to 4 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 6; lemon-juice (if added), 1 dessert- spoonful. Obs.—The safer plan with sauces liable to curdle is to thicken ste eeepeemnmnnetianinicnieeadal CHAP. Iv. | ; SAUCES. : 127 them always in a jar or jug, placed in a saucepan of water ; when this is not done, they should be held over the fire, but never placed upon it. PARSLEY-GREEN, FOR COLOURING SAUCES. Gather a quantity of young parsley, strip it from the stalks, wash it very clean, shake it as dry as possible in a cloth, pound it in a mortar, press all the juice closely from it through a hair- sieve reversed, and put it into a clean jar; set it into a pan of boiling water, and in about three minutes, if gently simmered, the juice will be poached sufficiently ; lay it then upon a clean sieve to drain, and it will be ready for use. ' TO CRISP PARSLEY. Pick some branches of young parsley, wash them well, drain them from the water, and swing them ina clean cloth until they are quite dry; place them on a sheet of writing paper in a Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, and keep them frequently turned _ until they are quite crisp. They will be done in from six to eight minutes. FRIED PARSLEY. When the parsley has been prepared as for crisping, and is quite dry, throw it into plenty of lard or: butter, which is on the point of boiling; take it up with a skimmer the instant it is crisp, and drain it on a cloth spread upon a sieve reversed, and placed before the fire. ANCHOVY BUTTER. (Eacellent.) Scrape the skin quite clean from a dozen fine mellow ancho- vies, free the flesh entirely from the bones, and pound it as smooth as possible in a mortar; rub it through the back of a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; wipe out the mortar, and put back the anchovies with three quarters of a pound of very fresh butter, a small half-saltspoonful of cayenne, and more than twice as much of finely grated nutmeg, and freshly pounded mace ; and beat them together until they are thoroughly blended. If to serve cold at table, mould the butter in small shapes, and turn it out. A little rose pink (which is sold at the chemists’) is sometimes used to give it a fine colour, but it must be sparingly used, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour: it should be well pounded, and very equally mixed with it. For kitchen use, Cee 128 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. Iv. press the butter down into jars or pattypans, and keep it in a cool place. Fine anchovies, 12; butter, ? lb.; cayenne, small } saltspoon- ful; nutmeg and mace, each more than twice as much ; Tose- * pink (if used), } teaspoonful. Obs.—This proportion differs from potted anchovies, nae in the larger proportion of butter mixed with the fish, and the milder seasoning of spice. It will assist to form an elegant dish if made into pats, and stamped with a tasteful impression, then placed alternately with pats of lobster-butter, and decorated with light foliage. It is generally eaten with much relish when carefully compounded, and makes excellent sandwiches. To convert it into a good fish sauce, mix two or three ounces of it with a teaspoonful of flour and a few spoonsful of cold water, or of pale veal stock, and keep them constantly stirred until they boil. The butter should not be moulded directly it is taken from the mortar, as itis then very soft from the beating. It should be placed until it is firm in a very cool place, or over ice, when it can be done conveniently. TARTAR. MUSTARD. Rub four ounces of the best Durham mustard very smooth. with a full teaspoonful of salt, and wet it by degrees with strong horseradish vinegar, a dessertspoonful of cayenne, or of Chili vinegar, and one or two of tarragon vinegar, when its flavour is not disliked. A quarter-pint of vinegar poured boiling upon an ounce of scraped horseradish, and left for one night, closely covered, will be ready to use for this mustard, but it will be better for standing two or three days. Durham mustard, 4 ozs.; salt, large teaspoonful ; cayenne, or Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful ; horseradish vinegar, third of int. Obs.—This is an exceedingly pungent compound, but has many admirers. ANOTHER TARTAR MUSTARD. Mix the salt and mustard smoothly, with equal parts of horse- radish vinegar, and of Chili vinegar. Mustard made by these receipts will keep long, if put into jars or bottles, and closely stopped. Cucumber, eschalot, or any other of the flavoured vinegars for which we have given receipts, may in turn be used © for it, and mushroom, gherkin, or India pickle-liquor, like- “Wise. ae ren oo eee CHAP. IVv.] SAUCES. 129 MILD MUSTARD. Mustard for instant use should be mixed with milk, to which a spoonful or two of very thin cream may be added. MUSTARD THE COMMON WAY. The great art of mixing mustard, is to have it perfectly smooth, and of a proper consistency. The liquid with which it is moistened should be added to it in small quantities, and the mustard should be well rubbed, and beaten with a spoon. Mix a, half-teaspoonful of salt with two ounces of the flour of mus- tard, and stir to them by degrees, sufficient boiling water to reduce it to the appearance of a thick batter; do not put it into the mustard-glass until cold. Some persons like a half-tea- spoonful of sugar, in the finest powder, mixed with it. It ought to be sufficiently diluted always to drop easily from the spoon. FRENCH BATTER. (For frying vegetables, and for apple, peach, or orange fritters ) Cut a couple of ounces of good butter into small bits, pour on it less than a quarter-pint of boiling water, and when it is dis- solved, add three quarters of a pint of cold water, so that the whole shall not be quite milk warm; mix it then by degrees, and very smoothly, with twelve ounces of fine dry flour, ‘anda — small pinch of salt, if the batter be for fruit fritters, but with more if for meat or vegetables. Just before it is used, stir into it the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth ; but previously to this, add a little water should it appear too thick, as some flour requires more liquid than other, to bring it to the proper consistency. Butter, 2 ozs.; water, from 3? to nearly 1 pint; little salt ; flour, 3 lb.; whites of 2 eggs, beaten to snow. TO PREPARE BREAD FOR FRYING FISH. Cut thick slices from the middle of a loaf of light bread, pare the crust entirely from them, and dry them gradually in a cool oven until they are crisp quite through; let them become cold, then roll or beat them into fine crumbs, and keep them in a dry place for use. To strew over hams or cheeks of bacon, the bread should be left all night in the oven, which should be suffi- ciently heated to brown, as well as to harden it: it ought indeed to be entirely converted into equally-coloured crust. It may be sifted through a dredging-box on to the hams, after it has been reduced almost to powder. K 130 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. IVs BROWNED FLOUR FOR THICKENING SOUPS AND GRAVIES. Spread it on a tin or dish, and colour it, without burning, in a gentle oven, or before the fire in a Dutch or American oven: turn it often, or the edges will be too much browned before the middle is enough so. ‘This, blended with butter, makes a con- venient thickening for soups or gravies, of which it is desirable to deepen the colour; and it requires less time and attention than the French roux of page 96. | FRIED BBEAD-CRUMBS. Grate lightly into very fine crumbs four ounces of stale bread, and shake them through a cullender, without rubbing or touch- ing them with the hands. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, throw in the crumbs, and stir them constantly over a moderate fire, until they are all of a clear gold colour; lift them out with a skimmer, spread them on a soft cloth laid upon a sieve reversed, and dry them before the fire. They may be more delicately prepared by browning them in a gentle oven without the addition of butter. Bread, 4 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs. FRIED BREAD FOR GARNISHING. Cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter-inch thick: form them into diamonds, or half diamonds, or shape them with a paste-cutter in any other way ; fry them in fresh butter, some of a very pale brown, and others a deeper colour: dry them well, and place them alternately round the dish that is to be garnished. ‘They may be made to adhere to the edge of the dish, when they are required for ornament only, by means of a little flour and white of egg brushed over the side which is placed on it: this must be allowed to dry before they are served. THE RAJAH’S SAUCE. Strain, very clear, the juice of six fine lemons; add to it a small teaspoonful of salt, a drachm of good cayenne-pepper, and a slight strip or two of the lemon-rind cut extremely thin. Give the sauce three or four minutes simmering ; turn it into a China jug or basin; and when it is quite cold, strain it again, put it into small dry bottles, cork them well, and store them in a cool place which is free from damp. The sauce is good with- out being boiled, but is apt to ferment after a time: it is, we think, of much finer flavour than Chili vinegar. Lemon-juice 4 pint; salt 1 small teaspoonful; cayenne 1 drachm ; simmered 5 minutes. CHAP. V. | STORE SAUCES. 131 CHAPTER V. STORE SAUCES, Mushrooms, Eschalois, and Tomatas. OBSERVATIONS. A wet selected stock of these will always prove a convenient resource for giving colour and flavour to soups, gravies, and made dishes; but unless the consumption be considerable, they should not be over-abundantly provided, as few of them are improved by age, and many are altogether spoiled by long keeping, especially if they be not perfectly secured from the air by sound corking, or if stored where there is the slightest degree of damp. To prevent loss, they should be examined at short intervals, and at the first appearance of mould or fermentation, such as will bear the process should be reboiled, and put, when again quite cold, into clean bottles; a precaution often especially needful for mushroom catsup when it has been made in a wet season. ‘This, with essence of anchovies, walnut catsup, Har- vey’s sauce, cavice, lemon-pickle, Chili, cucumber, and eschalot vinegar, will be all that is commonly needed for family use, but there is at the present day an extensive choice of these stores on sale, some of which are excellent. 182 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP, ¥, CHETNEY SAUCE. j (Bengal Receipt.) | Stone four ounces of good raisins, and chop them small, with half a pound of crabs, sour ~ apples, unripe bullaces, or of any other hard acid \fruit. ‘Take four ounces of coarse brown sugar, two of powdered ginger, and the same quantity of salt and cayenne pepper; grind these ingredients separately in a mortar, as fine as possible; then pound the fruits well, and mix the spices with them, one by one; beat them together until they are perfectly blended, and add gradually as much vinegar as will make the sauce of the consistency of thickcream. Put it into a bottle with an ounce of garlic, divided into cloves, and cork it tightly. Stoned raisins, 4 ozs.; crabs, or other acid fruit, he 3 lb.; coarse sugar, 4 ozs.; powdered ginger, /| - 2 ozs.; salt, 2 ozs.; cayenne-pepper, 2 ozs. ; garlic, Garlic. 1 oz.; vinegar, enough to dilute it properly. Obs.—This favourite oriental sauce is compounded in a great variety of ways ; but some kind of acid fruit is essential ‘to it. The mango is used in India; here the bullaces in an unripe state answer very well. Gooseberries also, while still hard and green, are sometimes used for it; and ripe red chilies and tomatas are mixed with the other ingredients. The sauce keeps better if it be exposed to a gentle degree of heat for a week or two, either by the side of the fire, or in a full southern aspect in the sun. In this case it must be put into a jar or bottles, and well secured from the air. Half a pound of gooseberries, or of these and tamarinds from the shell, and green apples mixed, and the same weight of salt, stoned raisins, brown sugar, powdered ginger, chilies, and garlic, with a pint and a half of vinegar, and the juice of three large lemons, will make another genuine Bengal chetney. / MUSHROOM CATSUP. Cut the ends of the stalks from two gallons of freshly-gathered mushroms (the large flaps are best for this purpose, but they should not be worm-eaten) ; break them into a deep earthen pan, and strew amongst them three quarters of a pound of salt, reserving the larger portion of it for the top. Let’ them stand for three, or even four days, and stir them gently once every four and twenty hours; then drain off the liquor without, CHAP. v.] STORE SAUCES. 133 pressing the mushrooms; strain and measure it; ‘put it into a very clean stewpan, and boil it quickly until reduced nearly or quite half. For every quart, allow half an ounce of whole black pepper, and a drachm of mace ; or, instead of the pepper, @ quarter-teaspoonful (ten grains) of eood cayenne; pour the catsup into a clean jug or jar, lay a folded cloth over it, and keep it in a cool place until the following day ; pour it gently from the sediment, put it into small bottles, cork them well, and rosin them down. A teaspoonful of salad-oil may be poured into each bottle before it is corked, the better to exclude | the air from the catsup: it must be kept in a dry cool place. Mushrooms, 2 gallons; salt, 2 lb.; to macerate three or four days. ‘To each quart of liquor, } oz. black pepper, or quarter- teaspoonful cayenne ; and 1 drachm mace: to be reduced half. Obs. 1.—Catsup made thus will not be too salt, nor will the flavour of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices ; of which a larger quantity, and a greater variety, can be used at will. a Obs. 2.—After the mushrooms have stood for three or four days, as we have directed, the whole may be turned into a large stewpan, brought slowly to a boil, and simmered for a few minutes before the liquor is strained off. We think the catsup keeps rather better when this is done, but we recommend only just sufficient simmering to preserve it well. When the mush- rooms are crushed, or mashed, as some authors direct, the liquor will necessarily be very thick; it is better to proceed as above, and then to boil the squeezings of the mushrooms with the sediment of the catsup, and sufficient cloves, pepper, allspice, and ginger, to flavour it highly: this second catsup will be found very useful to mix with common thickened sauces, hashes, and stews. In some seasons it is necessary to boil the catsup with the spice a second time after it has been kept for three or four months: this, by way of precaution, can always be done, but it had better then be put into large bottles in the first instance, and stored in the small ones afterwards. MUSHROOM CATSUP. (Another Receipt.) Break a peck of large mushrooms into a deep earthen-pan; strew three quarters of a pound of salt amongst them, and set them into a very cool oven for one night, with a fold of cloth or paper over them. The following day strain off the liquor, measure, . and boil it for fifteen minutes ; then, for each quart, add an ounce of black pepper, a quarter-ounce of allspice, half an ounce ~ 134 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V. of ginger, and two large blades of mace, and let it boil fast for twenty minutes longer. When perfectly cold, put it into bot- tles, cork them well, and dip the necks into melted rosin. Mushrooms, 1 peck; salt, 1b. Liquor to boil, 15 minutes. To each quart, 3 oz. black pepper; } oz. allspice; 4 oz. ginger ; 2 blades mace: 20 minutes. DOUBLE MUSHROOM CATSUP. On a gallon of fresh mushrooms strew three ounces of salt, and pour to them a quart of ready-made catsup (that which is a year old will do if it be perfectly good); keep these stirred occasionally for four days, then drain the liquor very dry from the mushrooms, and boil it for fifteen minutes, with an ounce of whole black pepper, a drachm and a half of mace, an ounce of ginger, and three or four grains only of cayenne. Mushrooms, 1 gallon; salt, 3 ozs.; mushroom catsup, 1 quart; peppercorns, 1 oz.; mace, 14 drachm; ginger, 1 oz. ; cayenne, 3 to 4 grains: 15 minutes. COMPOUND, OR COOK’S CATSUP. Take a pint and a half of mushroom catsup when it is first made, and ready boiled (the double is best for the purpose), simmer in it for five minutes, an ounce of small eschalots nieely peeled ; add to these half a- pint of walnut catsup, and a wine- glassful of cayenne vinegar,* or of Chili vinegar; give the whole one boil, pour it out, and when cold, bottle it with the eschalots. Mushroom catsup, 14 pint; eschalots, 1 0z.; walnut catsup or pickle, 3 pint ; cayenne or Chili vinegar, 1 wineglassful. WALNUT CATSUP. The vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled, when they have remained in it a year, will generally answer all the purposes for which this catsup is required, particularly if it be drained from them and boiled for a few minutes, with a little additional spice, and a few eschalots; but where the vinegar is objected to, it nay be made either by boiling the expressed juice of young walnuts for an hour, with six ounces of fine anchovies, _ four ounces of eschalots, half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter- ounce of cloves, and a drachm of mace, to every quart; or as follows :— Poundin a mortar a hundred young walnuts, strewing * We have always had the cayenne-vinegar used in this receipt, but the Chili would, without doubt, answer as well, or better. CHAP. V.] STORE SAUCES. 185 amongst them as they are done half a pound of salt; then pour to them a quart of strong vinegar, and let them stand until they have become quite black, keeping them stirred three or four times a day ; next add a quart of strong old beer, and boil the whole together for ten minutes ; strain it, and let it remain until the next day; then pour it off clear from the sediment, add to it half a pound of anchovies, one large head of garlic bruised, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, the same quantity of cloves and black pepper, and two drachms of mace: boil these together for half an hour, and the following day bottle and cork the catsup well. It will keep for a dozen years. Many persons add to it, before it is boiled, a bottle of port wine; and others recommend a large bunch of sweet herbs to be put in with the spice. Ist Recipe. Expressed juice of walnuts, 1 quart; anchovies, 6 ozs.; eschalots, 4 ozs.; black pepper, 3 0z.; cloves, 1 0z.; mace, 1 drachm: 1 hour. 2nd. Walnuts, 100; salt, }1b.; vinegar, 1 quart: to stand till black. Strong beer, 1 quart; anchovies, 3 lb.; 1 head garlic; nutmegs, } 0z.; cloves, } oz.; black pepper, } oz. ; mace, 2 drachms: } hour. ANOTHER GOOD RECEIPT FOR WALNUT CATSUP. Beat a hundred green walnuts in.a large marble mortar until they are thoroughly bruised and broken, and then put them into a stone jar, with half a pound of eschalots, cut in slices, one head of garlic, half a pound of salt, and two quarts of vinegar ; let them stand for ten days, and stir them night and morning. Strain off the liquor, and boil it for half an hour with the addition of two ounces of anchovies, two of whole pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and two drachms of mace; skim it well, strain it off, and when it is quite cold pour it gently from the sediment (which may be reserved for flavouring common sauces) into small dry bottles; secure it from the air by sound corking, and store it in a dry place. Walnuts, 100; eschalots, 3} lb.; garlic, 1 head; salt, 3 lb.; vinegar, 2 quarts: 10 days. Anchovies, 2 ozs.; black pepper, 2 ozs.; mace, + 0z.; cloves, } oz.: 4 hour. LEMON PICKLE OR CATSUP. Hither divide six small lemons into quarters, remove all the pips that are in sight, and strew three ounces of salt upon them, and keep them turned in it for a week, or, merely make deep incisions in them, and proceed as directed for pickled lemons. 136 MODERN COOKERY. [CILAP. V: When they have stood in a warm place for eight days, put into a stone jar two ounces and a half of finely scraped horseradish, and two ounces of eschalots, or one and a half of garlic; to these add the lemons with all their liquor, and pour on them a pint and a half of boiling vinegar in which half an ounce of bruised ginger, a quarter-ounce of whole white pepper, and two blades of mace have been simmered for two or three minutes. The pickle will be fit for use in two or three months, but may stand four or five before it is strained off. Small lemons, 6; salt, 3 ozs.: 8 days. Horseradish, 2! ozs.- eschalots, 2 ozs., or garlic 1} 0z.; vinegar, 14 pint; ginger, } oz. whole white pepper, + 0z.; mace, 2 blades: 3 to 6 months. PONTAC CATSUP FOR FISH. On one pint of ripe elderberries stripped from the stalks, pour three quarters of a pint of boiling vinegar, and let it stand in a cool oven all night; the next day strain off the liquid without pressure, and boil it for five minutes with a half-teaspoonful of salt, a small race of ginger, a blade of mace, forty corns of pepper, - twelve cloves, and four eschalots. Bottle it with the spice when it is quite cold. BOTTLED TOMATAS, OR TOMATA CATSUP. Cut half a peck of ripe tomatas into quarters; lay them on dishes, and sprinkle over them half a pound of salt. The next day drain the juice from them through a hair-sieve into a stew- pan, and boil it half an hour with three dozens of small capsi- cums, and half a pound of eschalots; then add the tomatas, - which should be ready pulped through a strainer. Boil the whole for thirty minutes longer; have some clean bottles, kept - warm by the fire, fill them with the catsup while it is quite hot; cork, and rosin them down directly. Tomatas, 3 peck; salt, 3 lb.; capsicums, 3 doz.; eschalots, 4]lb.: 4 hour. After pulp is added, 3 hour. Obs.—This receipt has been kindly contributed by a person who makes by it every year large quantities of the catsup, which is considered excellent: for sauce, it must be mixed with gravy or melted butter. We have not ourselves been able to make trial of it. EPICUREAN SAUCE. Mix well, by shaking them in a bottle a quarter-pint of Indian soy, half a pint of Chili vinegar, half a pint of walnut catsup, and a pint and a half of the best mushroom catsup. These proportions make an excellent sauce, either to mix with CHAP. V.]. STORE SAUCES. 137 melted butter, and to serve with fish, or to add to different kinds of gravy ; but they can be varied, or added to, at pleasure. Indian soy, 1 pint; Chili vinegar, 4 pint; walnut catsup, 3 pint ; mushroom catsup, 13 pint. Obs.—A_ pint of port wine, a few eschalots, and some thin strips of lemon-rind will convert this into an admirable store- sauce. Less soy would adapt it better to many tastes. TARRAGON VINEGAR. Gather the tarragon just before it blossoms, which will be late in July, or early in August; strip it from the larger stalks, and put it into small stone jars or wide-necked bottles, and in doing this twist some of the branches so as to bruise the leaves and wring them asunder; then pour in sufficient distilled or very pale vinegar to cover the tarragon; let it infuse for two months, or more: it will take no harm even by standing all the winter. When it is poured off strain it very clear, put it into small dry bottles, and cork them well. Sweet basil vinegar is made in exactly the same way, but it should not be left on the leaves more than three weeks. ‘The jars or bottles should be filled to the neck with the tarragon before the vinegar is added : its flavour is strong and peculiar, but to many tastes very agreeable. It imparts quite a foreign character to the dishes for which it is used. GREEN MINT VINEGAR. Pick and slightly chop, or bruise, freshly-gathered mint, and put it into bottles; fill them nearly to the necks, and add vinegar as for tarragon : in forty days, strain it off, and bottle it for use. The mint itself, ready minced for sauce, will keep well in vinegar, though the colour will not be very good. CUCUMBER VINEGAR. First wipe, and then, without paring, slice into a jar some young and quickly-grown cucumbers; pour on them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well, with a teaspoonful of salt, and two thirds as much of peppercorns to the pint and a half of vinegar: it may remain on them for a month, or even for two, if well defended from the air. A mild onion can be intermixed with the cucumbers, when its flavour is considered an improvement. CELERY VINEGAR. Put into a wide-necked bottle or pickle-jar eight ounces of 138 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. V. the white part of the root and stalks of fine fresh celery cut into slices, and pour on it a pint of boiling vinegar; when a little cool, cork it down, and in three weeks it will be ready to strain, and to bottle for keeping. Halfan ounce of bruised celery-seed will answer the same purpose, when the root cannot be ob- tained. This is an agreeable addition to a salad, when its flavour is much liked: a half-teaspoonful of salt should be boiled in it. ESCHALOT, OR GARLIC VINEGAR. On from four to six ounces of eschalots, or on two of garlic, peeled and bruised, pour a quart of the best vinegar; stop the jar or bottle close, and in a fortnight or three weeks the vine- gar may be strained off for use: a few drops will give a suffi- cient flavour to a sauce, or to a tureen of gravy. Eschalots, 4 to 6 ozs. ; or, garlic, 2 to 4 ozs.; vinegar, 1 quart: 15 to 21 days. Obs.—These roots may be used in smaller or in larger pro- | portion, as a slighter or a stronger flavour of them is desived, and may remain longer in the vinegar without any detriment to it. ESCHALOT WINE. This is a far more useful preparation even than the preceding one, since it can be used to impart the flavour of the eschalot to dishes for which acid is not required. Peel and slice, or bruise, four ounces of eschalots, put them into a bottle, and add to them a pint of sherry; in a fortnight pour off the wine, and should it not be strongly flavoured with the eschalots, steep in it two ounces more, for another fortnight; a half-teaspoonful of ca- yenne may be added at first. he bottle should be shaken occasionally, while the eschalots are infusing, but should remain undisturbed for the last two or three days, that the wine may be clear when it is poured off to bottle for keeping. Sweet- basil wine is made by steeping the fresh leaves of the herb in wine, from ten to fifteen days. Eschalots, 4 ozs.; sherry 1 pint: 15 days, or more. HORSERADISH VINEGAR. -On four ounces of young and freshly-scraped horseradish pour a quart of boiling vinegar, and cover it down closely: it will be ready for use in three or four days, but may remain for weeks, or months, before the vinegar is poured off. An ounce eee CHAP. V.] | - STORE SAUCES. 189 of minced eschalot may be substituted for one of the horse- radish, if the flavour be liked. CAYENNE VINEGAR. Put from a quarter to half an ounce of the best cayenne. pep- per into a bottle, and pour on it a pint of pale vinegar. Cork it closely, and shake it well every two or three days. It may remain any length of time before it is poured off, but will very soon be ready for use. From being so extremely pungent, it is, for some purposes, preferable to Chili vinegar, as the cayenne seasoning can be given with less of acid. It may be made of any degree of strength. We warn the young housekeeper against using essence of cayenne (or cayenne steeped in brandy) for flavouring any dishes, as the brandy is very perceptible al- ways, and gives an exceedingly coarse taste. Good cayenne pepper, } to 4 0z.; vinegar, 1 pint: infuse from 2 weeks to 12 months. LEMON BRANDY. (For flavouring sweet dishes.) Fill any sized wide-necked bottle lightly with the very thin rinds of fresh lemons, and cover them with good brandy; let them remain three weeks, then strain off the spirit and keep it well corked for use : a few apricot-kernels blanched and infused with the lemon-rind will give an agreeable flavour. ANOTHER STORE-FLAVOURING FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES. Rasp on from two to four ounces of sugar the rinds of a couple of fine lemons, reduce the lumps to powder, and add it gra- dually to, and pound it with, an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and wiped very dry. When these have been beaten to a fine paste, and the whole is well blended, press the mixture into a small pan, tie a paper over, and keep it for use. The proportions can be varied at pleasure, and the quantities in- creased: from a teaspoonful to three times as much can be mixed with the ingredients for a pudding. Cakes require more in proportion to their size. Rinds large lemons, 2; sugar, 2 to 4 0zs.; bitter almonds, 1 0z. DRIED MUSHROOMS. Peel small, sound, freshly-gathered flaps, cut off the stems, and scrape out the fur entirely ; then arrange the mushrooms singly on tins or dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible “in a gentle oven. Put them, when they are done, into tin 140 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V. canisters, and store them where they will be secure from damp. French cooks give them a single boil in water, from which they then are well drained, and dried, as usual. When wanted for table, they should be put into cold gravy, slowly heated, and gently simmered, until they are tender. MUSHROOM POWDERe When the mushrooms have been prepared with great nicety, and dried, as in the foregoing receipt, pound them to a very fine powder; sift it, and put it immediately into small and perfectly dry bottles; cork and seal them without delay, for if the powder be long exposed to the air, so as to imbibe any humidity, or if it be not well secured from it in the bottles, it will be likely to become putrid: much of that which is purchased, even at the best Italian warehouses, is found to be so, and, as it is sold at a very high price, it is agreat economy, as well as a surer plan, to have it carefully prepared at home. It is an exceedingly useful store, and an elegant addition to many dishes and sauces. ‘To insure its being good, the mushrooms should be gathered in dry weather, and if any addition of spices be made to the powder (some persons mix with it a seasoning of mace and cayenne), they should be put into the oven for awhile before they are used: but even these precautions will not be sufficient, unless the powder be stored in a very dry place after it is bottled. A teaspoonful of it, with a quarter-pint of strong veal gravy, as much cream, and a small dessertspoonful of flour, will make an excellent béchamel or white sauce. ; POTATO FLOUR. (Fecule de Pommes de terre.) Grate into a large vessel full of cold water, six pounds of sound mealy potatoes, and stir them well together. In six hours pour off the water, and add fresh, stirrmg the mixture well; repeat this process every three or four hours during the day, change the water at night, and the next morning pour it off; put two or three quarts more to the potatoes, and turn them directly into a hair-sieve, set over a pan to receive the flour, which may then be washed through the sieve, by pouring water to it. Let it settle in the pan, drain off the water, spread the potato-sediment on dishes, dry it in a slow oven, sift it, and put it into bottles or jars, and cork or cover them closely. The flour thus made will be beautifully white, and perfectly tasteless. It will remain good for years. ; aS aM CHAP. V. | STORE SAUCES. 141 TO MAKE FLOUR OF RICE. Take any quantity of whole rice, wash it thoroughly, chang- ing the water several times; drain and press it in a cloth, then spread it on a dish, and dry it perfectly ; beat it in a mortar toa smooth powder, and sift:it through a fine sieve. When used to thicken soup or sauces, mix it with a small quantity of cold water or of broth, and pour it to them while they are boiling. This flour, when newly made, is of much purer flavour than any usually prepared for sale. POWDER OF SAVOURY HERBS. All herbs which are to be dried for storing should be gathered in fine weather ; cleared from dirt and decayed leaves ; and dried quickly, but without scorching, in a Dutch oven before the fire, or in any other that is not toomuch heated. The leaves should then be stripped from the stalks, pounded, sifted, and closely corked in separate bottles; or several kinds may be mixed and pounded together for the convenience of seasoning in an instant gravies, soups, forcemeats, and made dishes: appropriate spices, celery-seed, and dried lemon-peel, all in fine powder, can be added to the herbs. THE DOCTOR'S ZEST. Pound to the finest powder separately, eight ounces of basket salt, a quarter-ounce of cayenne, a drachm of mace, and of nut- meg; of cloves and pimento, a drachm and a half each; then add the other ingredients, one by one, to the salt, and pound them together until they are perfectly well blended. Put the zest into wide-mouthed phials, and cork them tightly. Half an ounce of mushroom-powder, and a drachm of dried lemon-peel, will greatly improve this mixture. 142 MODERN COOKERY. CHAPTER VL FORCEMEATS. GENERAL REMARKS. Tue coarse and unpalat- able compounds so con- stantly met with under the denomination of forcemeat, even at tables otherwise Se tolerably well served, show with how little attention they are commonly pre- . pared. Weighing Machine. Many very indifferent cooks pique themselves on never doing any thing by rule, and the consequence of their throwing together at random (or “ by guess” as they call it) the ingredients which ought to be pro- portioned. with exceeding delicacy and exactness is, repeated failure in all they attempt to. do. Long experience, and a very correct eye may, it is true, enable a person to dispense occasion- ally with weights and measures, without hazarding the success of their operations ; but it is an experiment which the learner will do better to avoid. A large marble or Wedgwood mortar is indispensable in making all the finer kinds of forcemeat; and equally so indeed for many other purposes in cookery; no kitchen, therefore, should be without one; and for whatever preparation it may be used, the pounding should be continued with patience and perseverance until not a single lump nor fibre be perceptible in _. the mass of the articles beaten together. This particularly “applies to potted meats, which should resemble the smoothest paste ; as well as to several varieties of forcemeat. Of these last it should be observed, that such as are made by the French method (see quenelles) are the most appropriate for an elegant dinner, either to serve in soups or to fill boned poultry of any kind ; but when their exceeding lightness, which to foreigners constitutes one of their great excellencies, is objected to, it may be remedied by substituting dry crumbs of bread for the panada, and pounding a small quantity of the lean of a boiled ham, with the other ingredients: however, this should be done. only for the balls. 3 CHAP. VI. | FORCEMEATS. 143 _ No particular herb or spice should be allowed to predominate powerfully in these compositions; but the whole of the season- ings should be taken in such quantity only as will produce an agreeable savour when they are blended together. NO. 1. GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT, FOR ROAST VEAL, TURKEYS, &c. Grate very lightly into exceedingly fine crumbs, four ounces of the inside of a stale loaf, and mix thoroughly with it, a quar- ter of an ounce of lemon-rind pared as thin as possible, and minced extremely small ; the same quantity of savoury herbs, of which two thirds should be parsley, and one third thyme, like- wise fiely minced, a little grated nutmeg, a half teaspoonful of salt, and as much common pepper or cayenne as will season the forcemeat sufficiently. Break into these, two ounces of good butter in very small bits, add the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and with the fingers work the whole well together until it is smoothly mixed. It is usual to chop the lemon-rind, but we prefer it lightly grated on a fine grater. It should always be fresh for the purpose, or it will be likely to impart a very unpleasant fla- vour to the forcemeat. Half the rind of a moderate-sized lemon will be sufficient for this quantity ; which for a large turkey must be increased one-half. 2 Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; lemon-rind, } oz. (or grated rind of 4 lemon) ; mixed savoury herbs, minced, } 0z.; salt, 4 teaspoon- ful; pepper + to 4 of teaspoonful ; butter, 2 ozs.; yolk, 1 egg. Obs.—This, to our taste, is a much nicer and more delicate forcemeat than that which is made with chopped suet, and we _ would recommend it for trial in preference. Any variety of herb or spice may be used to give it flavour, and a little minced onion or eschalot can be added to it also; but these last do not appear to us suited to the meats for which the forcemeat is more particularly intended. Half an ounce of the butter may be omitted on ordinary occasions: and a portion of marjoram or of sweet basil may take the place of part of the thyme and parsley when preferred to them. NO. 2. ANOTHER GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT. Add to four ounces of bread-crumbs two of the lean of a boiled ham, quite free from sinew, and very finely minced; two of good butter, a dessertspoonful of herbs, chopped small, some lemon-grate, nutmeg, a little salt, a good seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and one whole egg, or the yolks of two. This may be 4 144 ; MODERN COOKERY. | [cHAP. VI. fried in balls of moderate size, for five minutes, to serve with — roast veal, or it may be put into the joint in the vsual way. _ Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; lean of ham, 2 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; _ minced herbs, 1 dessertspoonful ; lemon-grate, 1 teaspoonful ; nutmeg, mace, and cayenne, together, 1 small teaspoonful ; little salt ; 1 whole egg, or yolks of 2. NO. 3. SUPERIOR SUET FORCEMEAT, FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, &c. Mix well together six ounces of fine stale crumbs, with an equal weight of beef-kidney suet, chopped extremely small, a large dessertspoonful of parsley, mixed with a little lemon-thyme, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of cayenne, and asaltspoonful © or rather more of mace and nutmeg together ; work these up with three unbeaten egg-yolks, and three teaspoonsful of milk ; then put the forcemeat into a large mortar, and pound it per- fectly smooth. ‘Take it out, and let it remain in a cool place for half an hour at least before it is used ; then roll it into balls, if it be wanted to serve in that form; flour and fry them gently from seven to eight minutes, and dry them well before they are dished. Beef suet finely minced, 6 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 6 ozs.; parsley, . mixed with little thyme, 1 large dessertspoonful; salt, 1 tea- spoonful; mace, large saltspoonful, and one fourth as much cayenne; unbeaten egg-yolks, 3; milk, 3 teaspoonsful: well © pounded. Fried in balls, 7 to 8 minutes, or poached, 6 to 7. Obs.—The finely grated rind of half a lemon can be added to this forcemeat at pleasure; and for some purposes a morsel of garlic, or three or four minced eschalots, may be mixed with it before it is put into the mortar. NO. 4. COMMON. SUET FORCEMEAT. Beef suet is commonly used in the composition of this kind of forcemeat, but we think that veal-kidney suet, when it could be obtained, would have a better effect; though the reader will easily comprehend that it is scarcely possible for us to have every variety of every receipt which we insert put to the test; in some cases we are compelled merely to suggest what appear to us likely to be improvements. Strip carefully every morsel of skin from the suet, and mince it small; to six ounces add eight of bread-crumbs, with the same proportion of herbs, spice, salt, and lemon-peel, as in the foregoing receipt, and a couple of whole eggs, which should be very slightly beaten, after the specks have been taken out with the point of a small fork. Should more liquid be required, the yolk of another egg, or & CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS, ke spoonful or two of milk, may be used. Half this quantity will be sufficient for a small joint of veal, or for a dozen balls, which, when it is more convenient to serve it in that form, may be fried or browned beneath the roast, and then dished round it, though this last is not a very refined mode of dressing them. From eight to ten minutes will fry them well. No. 5. OYSTER FORCEMEAT. Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the beards, strain their liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters, but not too small, and mix them with the bread; add an ounce and a half of good butter, broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, a small saltspoon- ful of pounded mace, some cayenne, a little salt, and a large teaspoonful of parsley: mix these ingredients well, and work them together with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and a little of the oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat. Oysters, 1 dozen; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, 14 0z.; rind 1 small lemon; mace, 1 saltspoonful; some cayenne and salt; minced parsley, 1 large teaspoonful ; yolk 1 egg; oyster-liquor, 1 dessertspoonful: rolled into balls, and fried from 7 to 10 minutes, or poached from 5 to 6 minutes. Obs.—In this forcemeat the flavour of the oysters should pre- vail entirely over that of all the other ingredients which are mixed with them. No. 6. A FINER OYSTER FORCEMEAT. __ Pound the preceding forcemeat to the smoothest paste, with the addition only of half an ounce of fresh butter, should it be sufficiently dry to allow of it. It is remarkably good when thus prepared, and may be poached or fried in balls for soups or made dishes, or used to fill boned fowls, or the breasts of boiled turkeys with equally good effect. NO. 7. MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT. Cut closely off the stems’ ‘of some small, just-opened mush- rooms, peel them, and take out the fur. ‘Dissolve an ounce and a half of good butter in a saucepan, throw them into it with a little cayenne, and a slight sprinkling of mace, and stew them softly, keeping them well shaken, from five to seven minutes ; then turn them into a dish, spread them over it, and raise one end, that the liquid may drain from them. When L 146 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI, they are quite cold, mince, and then mix them with four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of good but- ter, and part of that in which they were stewed, should the forcemeat appear too moist to admit of the whole, as the yolk of one egg, at the least, must be added, to bind the ingredients together; strew in a saltspoonful of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and about the same quantity of mace and nutmeg, with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind. ‘The seasonings must be rather sparingly used, that the flavour of the mushrooms may not be overpowered by them. Mix the whole thoroughly with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, or of two, and use the forcemeat poached in small balls for soup, or fried and served in the dish with roast fowls, or round minced veal; or to fill boiled fowls, partridges, or turkeys. Small mushrooms, peeled and trimmed, 4 ozs. ; butter 14 oz.; slight sprinkling mace and cayenne: 5 to 7 minutes. Mush- rooms minced ; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, 14 oz. (with part of that used in the stewing); salt, 1 saltspoonfal; third as much of cayenne, of mace, and of nutmeg ; grated lemond-rind, 1 teaspoonful; yolk of 1 or 2 eggs. In balls, poached, 5 to 6 minutes ; fried, 6 to 8 minutes. Obs.— This, like most other forcemeats, is improved by being well beaten in a large mortar after it is entirely mixed. No. 8. FORCEMEAT FOR HARE- The first receipt of this chapter will be found very good for hare, without any variation; but the liver boiled for five minutes, and finely minced, may be added to it, when it is thought an improvement: another half ounce of butter, and a small portion more of egg will then be required. A couple of ounces of rasped bacon, and a glass of port-wine are sometimes recommended for this forcemeat, but we think it is better without them, especially when slices of bacon are used to line the hare. A flavouring of minced onion, or eschalot can be added, when the taste is in its favour; or the forcemeat No. 3 mav be substituted for this altogether. | | No. 9. ONION AND SAGE STUFFING, FOR PORK, GEESE, 4 OR DUCKS. Boil three large onions from ten to fifteen minutes, chop them small, and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, a heaped. tablespoonful of minced sage, an ounce of butter, a half -saltspoonful of pepper, and twice as much of salt, and put them into the body of the goose; part of the liver boiled for CHAP. VI. ] FORCEMEATS. 147 two or three minutes, and shred fine, is sometimes added to these, and the whole is bound together with an egg-yolk or two; but they are quite as frequently served without. The onions can be used raw, when their very strong flavour is not objected to, but the odour of the whole dish will then be some- what overpowering. Large onions, 3: boiled 20 to 30 minutes. Sage, 2 to 3 dessertspoonsful (or } to ? 0z.); butter, 1 oz.; pepper, 3 tea- spoonful; salt, 1 teaspoonful. No. 10. MR. COOKE’S FORCEMEAT FOR DUCKS OR GEESE» Two parts of chopped onion, two parts of bread-crumbs, three of butter, one of pounded sage, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. This receipt we have not proved. wo. 11. FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR MOCK TURTLE SOUPS. The French forcemeat, No. 17 of the present Chapter, is the most elegant and appropriate forcemeat to serve in mock turtle, but a more solid and highly seasoned one is usually added to it in this country. In very common cookery the ingredients are merely chopped small and mixed together with a moistening of eggs; but when the trouble of pounding and blending them _ properly is objected to, we would recommend the common veal forcemeat, No. 1, in preference, as the undressed veal and suet, when merely minced, do not produce a good effect. Four ounces each of these, with an ounce or so of the lean of a boiled ham, and three ounces of bread-crumbs, a large dessertspoonful of minced parsley, a small portion of thyme, or marjoram, a saltspoonful of white pepper, twice as much salt, or more, a little cayenne, half a small nutmeg, and a couple of eggs, well mixed with a fork first, to separate the meat, and after the moistening is added, with the fingers, then rolled into balls, and boiled in a little soup for twelve minutes, is the manner in which it is prepared; but the reader will find the following receipt very superior to it:—Rasp, that is to say, scrape with a knife, clear from the fibre, four ounces of veal, which should be cut into thick slices, and taken quite free from skin and fat ; _chop it fine, and then pound it as smoothly as possible in a large mortar, with three ounces of the rasped fat of an unboiled ham, of good flavour, or of the finest bacon, and one of butter, two ounces of bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of the lean of a boiled ham, should it be at hand, a good seasoning of cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, mixed together, a heaped dessertspoonful of minced { | ie 1 ORS A ar a oe 148 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI. herbs, and the yolks of two eggs; poach a small bit when it is mixed, and add any further seasoning it may require; and when it is of good flavour, roll it into balls of moderate size, and boil them twelve minutes ; then drain and slip them into the soup. No forcemeat should be boiled in the soup itself, on account of the fat which would escape from it in the process: a little stock should be reserved for the purpose. Very common:—Lean of neck of veal, 4 ozs.; beef-kidney suet, 4 ozs., both finely chopped; bread-crumbs, 3 ozs.; minced parsley, large dessertspoonful ; thyme or marjoram, small tea- spoonful; lean of boiled ham, 1 to 2 ozs.; white pepper, 1 salt- spoonful ; salt, twice as much ; 3 small nutmeg ; eggs, 2: in balls, 12 minutes. Better forcemeat :—Lean veal rasped, 4 ozs.; fat of unboiled ham, or finest bacon, 3 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. ; lean of boiled ham, minced, 1 large tablespoonful ; minced herbs, 1 heaped dessertspoonful; full seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, mixed ; yolks of eggs, 2: 12 minutes. no. 12. EGG BALLS. Boil four or five new-laid eggs for ten or twelve minutes, and lay them into fresh water until they are cold. Take out the yolks, and pound them smoothly with the beaten yolk of one raw egg, or more, if required; add a little salt and cayenne, roll the mixture into very small balls, and boil them for two minutes. Half a teaspoonful of flour is sometimes worked up with the eggs. Hard yolks of eggs, 4; 1 raw; little salt, cayenne : 2 minutes. no. 13. BRAIN CAKES. Wash and soak the brains well in cold water, and afterwards in hot; then remove the skin and large fibres, and boil them in water, slightly salted, from two to three minutes; beat them up with a teaspoonful of sage, very finely chopped, or with equal parts of sage and parsley, half a teaspoonful or rather more of salt, half as much mace, a little white pepper or cayenne, and one egg; drop them in small cakes, and fry them a fine light brown: two yolks of eggs will make the cakes more delicate than the white and yolk of one. A teaspoonful of flour and a little lemon-grate are sometimes added. , NO. 14. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BRAIN CAKES. Boil the brains in a little good veal-gravy very gently for ten minutes ; drain them on a sieve, and when cold, cut them into se ‘CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS. 149 thick dice ; dip them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into very fine bread-crumbs, mixed with salt, pounded spices, and fine herbs, minced extremely small; fry them of a light brown, drain and dry them well, and slip them into the soup or hash after it is dished. When broth or gravy is not at hand, the brains may be boiled in water. no. 15. CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT. Strip the outer skin from some fine sound chestnuts, then throw them into a saucepan of hot water, and set them over the fire for a minute or two, when they may easily be blanched like almonds. Put them into cold water as they are peeled. Dry them in a cloth, and weigh them. Stew six ounces of them very gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, za just sufficient strong veal-gravy to cover them. Take them up, drain them on a sieve, and when cold pound them perfectly smooth with half their weight of the nicest bacon, rasped clear from all rust or fibre, or with an equal quantity of fresh butter, two ounces of dry bread-crumbs, a small teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, one of salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, a moderate quantity of cayenne, and the unbeaten yolks of two or of three eggs. This mixture makes most excellent forcemeat cakes, which must be moulded with a knife, a: spoon, or the fingers, dipped in flour ; more should be dredged over, and pressed upon. them, and they should be slowly fried from ten to fifteen minutes. Chestnuts, 6 ozs.; veal-gravy, } of a pint: 15 to 20 minutes. Bacon or butter, 3 ozs.; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs.; lemon-peel and salt, 1 teaspoonful each. no. 16. AN EXCELLENT FRENCH FORCEMEAT. Take six ounces of veal free from fat and skin, cut it into dice and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a large teaspoonful of parsley finely minced, half as much thyme, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and a sufficient seasoning of nutmeg, cayenne, and mace, to flavour it pleasantly. Stew these very gently from twelve to fifteen minutes, then lift out the veal and put into the saucepan two ounces of bread-crumbs; let them simmer until they have absorbed the gravy yielded by the meat; keep them stirred until they are as dry as possible; beat the _ yolk of an egg to them while they are hot, and set them aside to cool. Chop and pound the veal, add the bread to it as soon as it is cold, beat them well together, with an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and two of the finest bacon, scraped quite clear | _ from rust, skin, and fibre; put to them the yolks of two eerie Gt. |. f as 150 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VI. small eggs, and mix them well; then take the forcemeat from the mortar, and set it in a very cool place until it is wanted for use. Veal, 6 ozs.; butter, 2 0zs.; minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful ; thyme, salt, and lemon-peel, each 3 teaspoonful; little nut- meg, cayenne, and mace: 12 to 15 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 2 ozs.; butter, 1} 0z.; rasped bacon, 2 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 2 to 3. Obs. 1.—When this forcemeat is intended to fill boned fowls, the livers of two or three, boiled for four minutes, or stewed with the veal for the same length of time, then minced and pounded with the other ingredients, will be found a great im- provement; and, if mushrooms can be procured, two table- spoonsful of them chopped small, should be stewed and beaten with it also. A small portion of the best end of the neck will afford the quantity of lean required for this receipt, and the re- mains of it will make excellent gravy. No. 17. FRENCH FORCEMEAT CALLED QUENELLES, This is a peculiarly light and delicate kind of forcemeat, which by good French cooks is compounded with exceeding care. It is served abroad in a variety of forms, and is made of « very finely-grained white veal, or of the undressed flesh of — poultry, or of rabbits, rasped quite free from sinew, then chopped and pounded to the finest paste, first by itself, and afterwards with an equal quantity of boiled calf’s udder or of butter, and of panada, which is but another name for bread soaked in cream or gravy and then dried over the fire until it forms a sort of paste. As the three ingredients should be equal in volwme, not in weight, they are each rolled into a separate ball before they . are mixed, that their size may be determined by the eye. When the fat of the fillet of veal (which in England is not often divided for sale, as it is in France) is not to be procured, a rather less proportion of butter will serve in its stead. The following - will be found a very good, and not a troublesome receipt for veal forcemeat of this kind. Rasp quite clear from sinew, after the fat and skin have been entirely cleared from it, four ounces of the finest veal; chop, and pound it well: if it be carefully prepared there will be no necessity for passing it through a sieve, but this should other- wise be done. Soak in a small saucepan two ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf in a little rich but pale veal gravy, or white sauce; then press and drain as much as possible of the moisture from it, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is as dry CHAP. VI. | FORCEMEATS. 151 as it will become without burning: it will adhere in a ball to the spoon, and leave the saucepan quite dry when it is sufficiently done. Mix with it, while it is still hot, the yolk of one egg, and when it is quite cold, add it to the veal with three ounces of very fresh butter, a quarter-teaspoonful of mace, half as much cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a saltspoonful of salt. When these are perfectly beaten, and well blended together, add another whole egg after having merely taken out the germs ; the mixture will then be ready for use, and may be moulded into balls, or small thick oval shapes, a little flattened, and poached in soup or gravy from ten to fifteen minutes. These quenelles may be served by themselves in a rich sauce, as a corner dish, or in conjunction with other things. They may likewise be first poached for three or four minutes, and left on a drainer to become cold; then dipped into egg and the finest bread-crumbs, and fried, and served as croquettes. NO. 18. FORCEMEAT FOR RAISED AND OTHER COLD PIES. The very finest sausage-meat, highly seasoned, and made with an equal proportion of fat and lean, is an exceedingly good forcemeat for veal, chicken, rabbit, and some few other pies ; savoury herbs minced small, may be added to heighten its fla- vour, if it be intended for immediate eating; but it will not then remain good quite so long, unless they should have been previously dried. .To prevent its being too dry, two or three spoonsful of cold water should be mixed with it before it is put into the pie. One pound of lean veal to one and a quarter of the pork-fat is sometimes used, and smoothly pounded with a high seasoning of spices, herbs, and eschalots, or garlic, but we _ cannot recommend the introdyction of these last into pies unless they are especially ordered : mushrooms may be mixed with any kind of forcemeat with far better effect. Equal parts of veal — and fat bacon, will also maxe a good forcemeat for pies, if chopped finely, and well spiced. Sausage-meat, well seasoned. Or: veal, 1 lb.; pork-fat,. - 1} Ib.;-salt, 1 0z.; pepper, + to 4 oz.; fine herbs, spice, &c., - as in forcemeat No. 1, or sausage-meat. Or: veal and bacon, equal weight, seasoned in the same way. PANADA. This is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed with the French forcemeats, and which renders them so pecu- liarly delicate. Pour on the crumb of two or three rolls, or on that of any other very light bread, as much good boiling broth, Pac ‘ Anh Sanaa 152 MODERN COOKERY. . [omap.-vry | milk, or cream, as will cover and moisten it well; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and let it remain for half an hour, or more; then drain off the superfluous liquid, and squeeze the panada dry by wringing it round in a thin cloth into a ball; put it into a small stewpan, or well tinned saucepan, and pour to it as much only of rich white sauce or of gravy, as it can easily absorb, and stir it constantly with a wooden spoon, over a clear and gentle fire, until it forms a very dry paste, and ad- heres in a mass to the spoon; when it is in this state, mix with it, thoroughly, the unbeaten yolk of two fresh eggs, which will give it firmness, and set it aside to become quite cold before it is put into the mortar. The best French cooks give the highest degree of savour that they can to this panada, and add no other seasoning to the forcemeats of which it forms a part: it is used in an equal proportion with the meat, and calf’s udder or butter of which they are composed, as we have shown in the preceding receipt for quenelles. They stew slowly for the purpose, a small bit of lean ham, two or three minced eschalots, a bayleaf, a few mushrooms, a little parsley, a clove or two, and a small blade of mace, in a little good butter, and when they are suffi- ciently browned, pour to them as much broth or gravy as will be needed for the panada; and when this has simmered from twenty to thirty minutes, so as to have acquired the proper flavour, without being much reduced, they strain it over, and boil it into the bread. The common course of cookery in an English kitchen does not often require the practice of the greater niceties and refinements of the art: and trouble (of which the French appear to be perfectly regardless when the excellence of their preparations is concerned) is there in general so much thought of, and exclaimed against, that a more summary pro- cess would probably meet with a better chance of success. A quicker and rougher mode of making the panada, and indeed the forcemeat altogether, is to pour strong veal broth or gravy upon it, and after it has soaked, to boil it-dry, without any addition except that of a little fine spice, lemon-grate, or any other favourite English seasoning. Minced herbs, salt, cayenne, and mace may be beaten with the meat, to which a small portion of well-pounded ham, may likewise be added at pleasure. asi . CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 15s Sy) we CHAPTER VU. BOILING, ROASTING, &c. TO BOIL MEAT. Larce joints of meat should be neatly trimmed, washed extremely clean, and Mas i skewered or bound firmly into good @-s shape, when they are of a nature to } require it; then well covered with coid water, brought to boil over a moderate fire, and simmered until they are done, the scum being care- fully and entirely cleared from the surface of the water, as it gathers there, which will be principally from within a few minutes of its beginning to boil, and during a few minutes afterwards. If not thoroughly skimmed off at the, proper time, it will sink, and adhere to the joint, giving it a very uninviting appearance. We cannot too strongly again impress upon the cook the advantages of gentle simmering over the usual fast-boiling of meat, by which, as has been already forcibly shown (see article Bouillon, Chapter I.), the outside is hardened and deprived of its juices before the inside is half done, while the starting of the fiesh from the bones which it occasions, and the altogether ragged aspect which it gives, are most unsightly. Pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh; and that which is smoked and dried longer still. This last should always be slowly heated, and if, from any circumstances, time cannot have been allowed for soaking it properly, and there is a probability of its being too salt when served, it should be brought very softly to boil in a large quantity of water, which should in part be changed as soon as it becomes quite briny, for as much more that is ready boiling. _ ., It is customary to lay large joints upon a fish-plate, or to throw some Coes wooden skewers under them, to prevent their sticking to the vessel O in which they are cooked; and it is \Y; as wellto take the precaution, though, unless they be placed over a very fierce fire, they cannot be in danger of this. ‘The time allowed for them Large Copper or Iron Stockpot.* * The most suitable, and the most usual form of stockpot for making soup in Iron Boiler. 154 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIT.. is about the same as for roasting, from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. For cooking rounds of beef, and other ponderous _ joints, a pan of this form is very convenient. By means of two almost equally expensive preparations, called a poélée, and a blanc, the insipidity which results from boiling meat or vegetables in water only, may be removed, and the whiteness of either will be better preserved. Turkeys, fowls, sweetbreads, calf’s brains, cauliflowers, and artichoke bottoms, are the articles for which the poélée and the blanc are more especially used in refined foreign cookery: the reader will judge by the following receipts how far they are admissible into that of the economist. POELEE. Cut into large dice two pounds of lean veal, and two pounds of fat bacon, cured without saltpetre, two large carrots, and two onions; to these add half a pound of fresh butter, put the whole into a stewpan, and stir it with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire, until the veal is very white, and the bacon is partially melted; then pour to them three pints of clear boiling broth or water, throw in four cloves, a small bunch or two of thyme and parsley, a bay-leaf, and a few corns of white pepper ; boil these gently for an hour and a half, then strain the poélée through a fine sieve, and set it by in acool place. Use it instead of water for boiling the various articles we have already named: it will answer for several in succession, and will remain good for many days. Some cooks order a pound of butter in addition to the bacon, and others substitute beef-suet in part for this last. A BLANC. Put into a stewpan one pound of fat bacon rasped, one pound of beef-suet cut small, and one pound of butter, the strained juice of two lemons, a couple of bay-leaves, three cloves, three carrots, and three onions divided into dice, and less than half a pint of water. Simmer these gently, keeping them often stirred, until the fat is well melted, and the water has evaporated ; then pour in rather more than will be required for the dish which is to be cooked in the blanc ; boil it softly until all the ingredients have given out their full flavour, skim it well, add salt if needed, and strain it off for use. A calf’s head is often boiled in this. large quantities is the deep one, which will be found at page 2; but the handles should be at the sides as in that shown above, with others on the cover to corres- pond (or with one in the centre of it), which, from some inadvertence, have been omitted in the present engraving. CHAP. VII. ] BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 155 ROASTING. Roasting, which is quite the favourite mode of dressing meat. in this country, and one in which the English are thought to excel, requires unremitting attention on the part of the cook, rather than any great exertion of skill. Large kitchens are usually fitted with a smoke-jack, by means of which several spits, if needful, can be kept turning at the same time; but in small establishments, a roaster which allows of some eco- nomy in point of fuel is more commonly used. That shown in the print is of very advantageous construction in this respect, as a joint may be cooked in it with a comparatively small fire, the heat being strongly reflected from the screen upon the meat; in con- Bottle-jack and Niche Sereen.* sequence of this, it should never be placed very close to the grate, as the surface of the joint would then become dry and hard. A more convenient form of roaster, with a spit placed hori- zontally, and turned by means of a wheel and chain, of which the movement is regulated by a spring contained in a box at the top, is of the same economical order as the one above. For roasting without either of these, make up a fire propor- ‘tioned in width and height to the joint which is to be roasted, and which it should surpass in dimensions every way, by two or three inches. Place some moderate-sized lumps of coal on the top; let it be free from smoke Improved Spring-jack and and ashes in front; and so com- Roaster. * The bottle-jack, without the screen, is used in many families very success- fully; it is wound up like a watch, by means of a key, and turns very regularly until it has run down. 156 : MODERN COOKREY. - [CHAP. VII. pactly arranged that it will neither require to.be disturbed, nor supplied with fresh fuel, for some considerable time after the meat is laid down. Spit the joint and place it very far from the fire at first; keep it constantly basted, and when it is two parts done, move it nearer to the fire that it may be properly browned; but guard carefully against it being burned. A few minutes before it is taken from the spit, sprinkle a little fine salt over it, baste it thoroughly with its own dripping, or with butter, and dredge it with flour: as soon as the froth is well risen, dish, and serve the meat. Or, to avoid the necessity of the frothing which is often greatly objected to on account of the raw taste retained by the flour, dredge the roast liberally soon after it is first laid to the fire ; the flour will then form a savoury incrustation upon it, and assist to-prevent the escape of its juices. When meat or poultry is wrapped in buttered paper it must not be floured until this is removed, which should be fifteen or twenty minutes before either is served. Remember always to draw back the dripping-pan when the fire has to be stirred, or when fresh coals are thrown on, that the cinders and ashes may not fall into it. When meat is very lean, a slice of butter, or a small quantity of clarified dripping should be melted in the pan to baste it with at first; though the use of the latter should be scrupulously avoided for poultry, or any delicate meats, as the flavour it imparts is to many persons peculiarly objectionable. Let the spit be kept bright and clean, and wipe it before the meat is put ~ on; balance the joint well upon it, that it may turn steadily, and if needful secure it with screw-skewers. A cradle spit, which is so constructed that it contains the meat in a sort of framework, instead of passing through it, may be often very advantageously used instead of an ordinary one, as the perfora- tion of the meat by this last must always occasion some escape of the juices ; and it is, moreover, particularly to be objected to in roasting joints or poultry which have been boned and filled with forcemeat. The cradle spit (for which see “ Turkey Boned. and Forced,” Chapter XII.) is much better suited to these, as well as to a sucking pig, sturgeon, salmon, and other large fish ; but it is not very commonly to be found in our kitchens, many of which exhibit a singular scantiness of the conveniences which facilitate the labours of the cook. For heavy and substantial joints, a quarter of an hour is gene- rally allowed for every pound of meat; and with a sound fire and frequent basting, will be found sufficient when the process is conducted in the usual manner; but by the slow method, as we shall designate it, almost double the time will be required. Pork, CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 157 veal, and lamb, should always be well roasted ; but many eaters prefer mutton and beef rather under-dressed, though some per- sons have a strong objection to the sight even of any meat that is not thoroughly cooked. Joints which are thin in proportion to their weight, require less of the fire than thick and solid ones. Ribs of beef, for example, will be sooner ready to serve than an equal weight of the rump, round, or sirloin; and the neck or shoulder of mut- ton, or spare rib of pork, than the leg. When to preserve the succulence of the meat is more an object than to economize fuel, beef and mutton should be laid at twice the usual distance from the fire, and allowed to remain so until they are perfectly heated through ; the roasting, so ma- naged, will of course be slow ; and from three hours and a half to four hours will be necessary to cook by this method a leg of mutton of ordinary size, for which two hours would amply suf- fice in a commen way ; but the flesh will be remarkably tender, and the flew of gravy from it most abundant. It should not be drawn near the fire until within-the last hour, and should then be placed only so close as to brown it properly. No kind of roast indeed should at any time be allowed to take colour too quickly ; it should be heated gradually, and kept at least at a moderate distance from the fire until it.is nearly done, or the outside will be dry and hard, if not burned, while the inside will be only half cooked. STEAMING. The application of steam to culinary purposes is becoming very general in our kitchens at the present day, espe- cially in those of large establishments, many of which are furnished with 7-7 apparatus for its use, so admirably constructed, and so complete, that the process may be conducted on an ex- tensive scale, with very slight trouble to the cook; and with the further advantage of being at a distance from the fire, the steam being conveyed by pipes to the vessels intended to receive it. Fish, butcher’s meat, poultry, vegetables, puddings, maccaroni, and rice, are all subjected to its action, instead of being immersed in water, as in simple boiling ; and the result is to many persons perfectly satisfactory; though, as there is a difference of opinion amongst first-rate cooks, with regard to the comparative Saucepan, with Steamer. 158 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. vit. merits of the two modes of dressing meat and fish, a trial should be given to the steaming, on a small scale, before any great - expenses are incurred for it, which may be done easily with a common saucepan or boiler, fitted like the one shown aboye, with a simple tin steamer. Servants not accustomed to the use of these, should be warned against boiling in the vessel itself any thing of coarse or strong flavour, when the article steamed is of a delicate nature. The vapour from soup containing onions, for example, would have a very bad effect on a sweet pudding especially, and on many other dishes. Care and dis- cretion, therefore, must be exercised on this point. By means of a kettle fixed over it, the steam of the boiler in the kitchen range, may be made available for cooking, in the way shown by the engraving, which exhibits fish, potatoes, and their sauces, all in progress of steaming at the same time.* The limits of our work do not permit us to enter at much length upon this subject, but the reader who may wish to under- stand the nature of steam, and the various modes in which its agency may be applied to domestic pur- poses, will do well to consult Mr. Webster's excellent work,t of which we have more particularly spoken in another chapter. ‘The quite inexperienced cook may require to be told, that any article of food which is to be cooked by steam in a saucepan of the form exhibited in the first of the engravings of this section, must be prepared exactly as for boiling, and laid into the sort of strainer affixed to the top of the saucepan; and that water, or some other kind of liquid, must be put into the saucepan itself, and kept boiling in it, the lid being first closely fixed into the steamer. a00%00000 STEWING. This very wholesome, convenient, and economical mode of cookery is by no means so well understood nor profited by in England as on the continent, where its advantages are fully appreciated. So very small a quantity of fuel is necessary to sustain the gentle degree of ebullition which it requires, that this alone would recommend it to the careful housekeeper; but * Invented and sold by Mr. EvAns, Fish-street Hill, t Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. LONGMAN & Co. CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 159 if the process be skilfully conducted, meat softly stoved or stewed, in close- shutting, or luted vessels, isin every respect equal, if | not superior, to that which is roasted ; but it must be simmered only, and in the gentlest possible manner, or,- instead of being ten- der, nutritious, and highly po It will be dry, Hot Plate, or Hearth. ard, and indigestible. The common cooking stoves in this country, as they have hitherto been constructed, have rendcred the exact regula- tion of heat which stewing requires rather difficult; and the smoke and blaze of a large coal fire are very unfavourable to many other modes of cookery as well. The French have generally the advantage of the embers and ashes of the wood which is their ordinary fuel ; and they have always, in addit‘on, a stove of this construction in which charcoal or brazse (for explanation of this word, see remarks on preserving, Chapter XXI.) only is burned; and upon which their stewpans can, when there is occasion, be left un- oe 2 nee: a covered, without the danger of <-Ze/ 4—/ \ their contents being spoiled, which there generally is with us. It is true that of late great improve- ments have been made in our own stoves; and the hot plates, or hearths with which the kitchens of good houses are always furnished, are admirably adapted to the simmering system; but when the cook has not the convenience of one, the stewpans must be placed on trevets high above the fire, and be constantly watched, and moved, as occasion may require, nearer to, or further from the flame. No copper vessels from which the inner tinning is in the slightest degree worn away should be used ever for this or for . any other kind of cookery; or not health only, but life itself, _ may be endangered by them.* We have ourselves seen a dish * Sugar, being an antidote to the poisonous effects of verdigris, should be plentifully taken, dissolved in water, so as to form quite a syrup, by persons who may unfortunately have partaken of any dish into which this dangerous ingre- dient has entered. 160 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. VIt. of acid fruit which had been boiled without sugar, in a copper pan from which the tin lining was half worn away, coated with verdigris after it had become cold; and from the careless habits of the person who had prepared it, the chances were greatly in favour of its being served to a family afterwards, if it had not been accidently discovered. Salt acts upon the copper in the same manner as acids: vegetables, too, from the portion of the latter which they contain, have the same injurious effect ; and the greatest danger results from allowing preparations contain- ing any of these to become cold (or cool) in the stewpan, in contact with the exposed part of the copper in the inside. Thick, well-tinned iron saucepans will answer for all the ordi-. nary purposes of common English cookery, even for stewing, provided they have tightly-fitting lids to prevent the escape of the steam; but the copper ones are of more convenient form, and better adapted to a superior order of cookery. We shall have occasion to speak more particularly in another part of this work, of the German enamelled stewpans, so safe, and so well suited, from the extreme nicety of the composition, resembling earthenware or china, with which they are lined, to all delicate compounds. The cook should be warned, however, that they retain the heat so long, that the contents will boil for several minutes after they are removed from the fire, and this must be guarded against when they have reached the exact point, at which further boiling would have a bad effect; as would be the case with some preserves, and other sweets. BROILING. Broiling is the best possible mode of cooking and of preserv- ing the flavour of several kinds of fish, amongst which we may specify mackerel and whitings ;* it is also incomparably superior to frying for steaks and cutlets, espe- cially of beef and mutton; and it — is far better adapted, also, to the preparation of food for invalids ; but it should be carefully done, Sts for if the heat be too fierce, the aT as outside of the meat will bescorched ae and hardened so as to render it A Conjurer. uneatable; and if, on the con- * Salmon broiled in slices, is a favourite dish with eaters who like the full rich flavour of the fish preserved, as it is much more luscious (but less delicate) dressed thus than when it is boiled. The slices should be cut from an inch to an CHAP. VII. | BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 161 trary, it be too gentle, the gravy will be drawn out, and yet the lesh will remain so entirely without firmness, as to be unplea- sant eating. ie aw a a el TORS GY.) imal : x da, Seed on CHAP. IX. | VEAL. ) 213 the vegetables may be at once divided: if extremely young they will not need the previous boil. Before the harrico is served, skim the fat from it, and add salt and pepper should it not be sufficiently seasoned. A few bits of lean ham, or shoulder of - bacon browned with the veal, will much improve this dish, and for some tastes, a little acid will render it more agreeable. Very delicate pork chops may be dressed in the same way. Veal, 2 to 3 lbs.; water (or gravy), 1 pint; new potatoes, 11 to 2 Ibs.; faggot, parsley and green onions : 1 hour or more. VEAL CUTLETS. Take them, if possible, free from bone, and after having trimmed them into proper shape, beat them with a paste roller until the fibre of the meat is thoroughly broken; flour them well to prevent the escape of the gravy, and fry them from twelve to fifteen minutes over a fire which is not sufficiently fierce to burn them before they are quite cooked through : they should be of a fine amber brown, and perfectly done. Litt them into a hot dish, pour the fat from the pan, throw in a slice of fresh butter, and when it is melted, stir or dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour ; keep these shaken until they are well- coloured, then pour gradually to them a cup of gravy or boil- ing water; add pepper, salt, a little lemon pickle or juice, give the whole a boil, and pour it over the cutlets : a few forcemeat balls, fried, and served with them, is usually a very acceptable addition to this dish, even when it is garnished or accompanied _ with rashers of ham or bacon. A morsel of glaze, or of the jelly of roast meat, should, when at hand, be added to the sauce, which a little mushroom powder would further improve : mushroom sauce, indeed, is considered by many epicures, as in- dispensable with veal cutlets. We have recommended, in this one instance, that the meat should be thoroughly beaten, be- cause we find that the veal is wonderfully improved by the process, which, however, we’still deprecate for other meat. 12 to 15 minutes. VEAL CUTLETS A LINDIENNE, OR INDIAN FASHION. (ENTREE.) Mix well together four ounces of very fine stale bread- crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of the best currie powder. Cut down into small well-shaped cutlets or _ -eollops, two pounds of veal free from fat, skin, or bone; beat the slices flat, and dip them first into some beaten egg- a yolks, and then into the seasoned crumbs; moisten them . ‘ ' Mah 214 MODERN COOKERY. - (CHAP. IX. again with egg, and pass them a second time through the bread-crumbs. When all are ready, fry them in three or four ounces of butter over a moderate fire, from twelve to fourteen — minutes. For sauce, mix smoothly with a knife, a teaspoonful of flour and an equal quantity of currie-powder, with a small slice of butter; shake these in the pan for about five minutes, pour to them a cup of gravy or boiling water, add. salt and. cayenne, if required, and the strained juice of half a lemon; simmer the whole till well flavoured, and pour it round the — cutlets. A better plan is, to have some good currie sauce ready prepared to send to table with this dish; which may likewise be served with only well-made common cutlet gravy, from the pan, when much of the pungent flavour of the currie- powder is not desired. Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; currie powder, 1 tablespoonful; veal, 2 lbs.: 12 to 14 minutes. — Obs.—These cutlets may be broiled; they should then ‘be well beaten first, and dipped into clarified butter instead of egg, before they are passed through the curried seasoning. VEAL CUTLETS,; OR COLLOPS. (ENTREE.) (A la Frangaise.) Cut the veal into small, thin, round collops of equal size, arrange them evenly in a sauté-pan, or in a small frying-pan, and sprinkle a little fine salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg on them. Clarify, or merely dissolve in a clean saucepan, with a gentle degree of heat, an ounce or two of good butter, and pour it equally over the meat. Set the pan aside until the dinner-hour, then fry the collops over a clear fire, and when they are lightly browned, which will be in from four to five minutes, lift them into a hot dish, and sauce them with a little Hspagnole, or with a gravy made quickly in the pan, and flavoured with lemon-juice and cayenne. They are excellent even without any sauce. 3 to 4 minutes. SCOTCH COLLOPS. (ENTREE.) CHAP. IX. } VEAL. 215 1 - VEAL CUTLETS, A LA MODE DE LONDRES} OR, LONDON FASHION. (ENTREE.) Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a neck of veal, free it from the skin, and from the greater por- tion of the fat, slice it equally into cutlets little more than a quarter of an inch thick, brush them with egg, strew them with fine bread-crumbs, and fry them of a light brown. ‘Toast, or _ fry apart as many small slices of bacon as there are cutlets, and - let them be trimmed nearly to the same shape; place them alternately on their edges round the inside of a hot dish (so as to form a sort of chain), and pour into the middle some rich gravy made in the pan, and very slightly flavoured with escha- lot; or substitute for this some good brown mushroom sauce. Savoury herbs, grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or mace, salt, and white pepper, or cayenne, should be mixed with the bread- crumbs, in the proportions directed at page 200, for cutlets of calf’s head; or they may be varied at pleasure. A cheek of bacon is best adapted to this dish. SWEETBREADS SIMPLY DRESSED (ENTREE.) In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be well soaked in lukewarm water, then thrown into boiling water to blanch them, as it is called, and to render them firm. If lifted out after they have boiled from five to ten minutes, according to their size, and laid immediately into fresh spring water to cool, their colour will be the better preserved. ‘They may then be gently stewed for three quarters of an hour in veal gravy, which, with the usual additions of cream, lemon, and egeg-yolks, may be converted into a fricassee sauce for them, when they are done; or they may be lifted from it, glazed, and served with good Spanish gravy; or, the glazing being omitted, they may be sauced with the sharp Maitre d’Hotel sauce of age 106. They may also be simply floured, and roasted in a Dah oven, being often basted with butter, and frequently — turned. A full sized sweetbread, after having been blanched, will require quite three quarters of an hour to dress it. Blanched 5 to 10 minutes. Stewed ? hour or more. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS. (ENTREE.) . Boil the sweetbreads for half an hour in water, or veal broth, | and when they are perfectly cold, cut them into slices of equal _ _ thickness, brush them with yolks of egg, and dip them into very 2 il 216 | MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX.: fine bread-crumbs, ‘seasoned with salt, cayenne, grated lemon- rind, and mace; fry them in butter of a fine light brown, arrange them ina dish, placing them high in the centre, and pour wnder them a gravy made in the pan, thickened with mushroom powder, and flavoured with lemon-juice ; or, in lieu of this, sauce, them with some rich brown gravy, to which a glass of sherry or Madeira has been added. When it can be done conveniently, take as many slices of a cold boiled tongue, as there are sweetbread cutlets; pare the rind from them, trim them into good shape, and dress them with the sweetbreads, — after they have been egged and seasoned in the same way; place each cutlet upon a slice of tongue when they are dished. For variety, substitute croutons of fried bread, stamped out to — the size of the cutlets, with a round or fluted paste or cake cutter. ‘The crumb of a stale loaf, very evenly sliced, is best for the purpose. STEWED CALF’S FEET. (Cheap and good.) This is an excellent family dish, highly nutritious, and often very inexpensive, as the feet, during the summer, are usually sold at a low rate. Wash them with nicety, divide them at the joint, and split the claws; arrange them closely in a thick stewpan’or saucepan, and pour in as much cold water as will cover them about half an inch: three pints will be sufficient for _ acouple of large feet. When broth or stock is at hand, it is good economy to substitute it for the water, as, by this means, a portion of strong and well-flavoured jellied gravy will be obtained for general use, the full quantity not being needed as sauce for the feet. The whole preparation will be much improved by laying a thick slice of the lean of an unboiled ham, knuckle of bacon, hung beef, or the end of a dried tongue, at the bottom of the pan, before the other ingredients are added ; or, when none of these are at hand, by supplying the deficiency with a few bits of stewing-beef or veal: the feet being of them- selves insipid, will be much more palatable with one or the other of these additions. Throw in from half to three quarters of a teaspoonful of salt, when they begin to boil, and, after the scum has been all cleared off, add a few branches of parsley, a little celery, one small onion or more, stuck with half a dozen cloves, a carrot or two, a large blade of mace, and twenty corns of whole pepper; stew them softly until the flesh will part entirely from the bones; take it from them; strain part of the gravy, and skim off all the fat, flavour it with catsup, orany — CHAP. IX. | VEAL. 217 other store sauce, and thicken it, when it boils, with arrow- root, or flour and butter ; put in the flesh of the feet, and serve the dish as soon as the whole is very hot. A glass of wine, a little lemon-juice, and a few forcemeat balls will convert this into a very superior stew; a handful of mushroom-buttons also. simmered in it for half an hour before it is dished, will vary it agreeably. Calf’s feet (large), 2; water, 3 pints; salt, 3 to 3 teaspoonful; Onions, 1 to 3; cloves, 6; peppercorns, 20; mace, large blade; little celery and parsley; carrots, 1 or 2: stewed softly, 23. to 3} hours. Mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoonful ; flour, or arrow- root, 1 large teaspoonful; butter, 1 to 2 ozs. Cayenne, to taste. CALF’S LIVER FRIED. To render the liver firm when dressed, lay it into a deep dish, and pour over it half a pint of vinegar; turn it often in this, and let it lie for four and twenty hours, or longer even, if more convenient. Sliced onions, or eschalots, and branches of parsley, may be steeped with it in the vinegar, when their flavour is relished ; but, in general, they would not, we think, be con- sidered an improvement. Wash and wipe the liver very dry, slice it evenly, season it with pepper, salt, and savoury herbs shred extremely small, then flour and fry it in butter quickly of a fine light brown; lift it out and keep it very hot, while a gravy is made for it in the pan. Pour out the fat, throw in a small slice of fresh butter, and when it boils stir to it a half- teaspoonful of flour; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, about a quarter-pint of boiling water, and a little lemon-juice, Chili vinegar, or lemon-pickle; shake the pan well round, give the whole a boil, sauce the liver with it, and send it to table with or without a garnish of curled bacon. TO ROAST CALF’S LIVER. Take the whole or part of a fine white sound liver, and either lard it as a fricandeau upon the surface, or with large strips of highly-seasoned bacon in the inside (see Larding, page 166) ; or should either of these modes be objected to, merely wrap it in a well-buttered paper, and roast it from an hour to an hour and a quarter, at a moderate distance from a clear fire, keeping it constantly basted. Remove the paper, and froth the liver well from ten to fifteen minutes before it is done. It should be served with a sauce of some piquancy, such as a poivrade, or brown eschalot, in addition to some good gravy. French cooks 218 | MODERN COOKERY. [cnar. 1x. steep the liver over-night in vinegar, with a sliced onion and branches of savoury herbs laid over it; this whitens and renders it firm. As an economical mode, some small bits of the liver may be trimmed off, floured, and lightly fried with a sliced onion, and stewed down for gravy in three quarters of a pint of water which has been poured into the pan, with the addition of a few peppercorns, and a small bunch of herbs. A seasoning of salt must not be forgotten, and a little lemon pickle, or juice, would generally be considered an improvement. 1 to 13 hour. . BLANQUETTE OF VEAL OR LAMB, WITH MUSHROOMS. (ENTREE.) ; Slice very thin the white part of some cold veal, divide and trim it into scallops not larger than a shilling, and lay it into a clean saucepan or stewpan. Wipe with a bit of. new flannel and a few grains of salt, from a quarter to half a pint of mush- room-buttons, and slice them into a little butter which just begins to simmer; stew them in it from twelve. to fifteen minutes, without allowing them to take the slightest colour; then lift them out and lay them on the veal. Pour boiling to -them a pint of sauce tournée (see page 96); let the blanquette - remain near but not close to the fire for awhile; bring it nearer, heat it slowly, and when it is on the point of boiling mix a spoonful or two of the sauce from it with the well beaten yolks of four fresh eggs; stir them to the remainder; add the strained juice of half a small lemon; shake the saucepan above the fire until the sauce is just set, and serve the blanquette instantly. Cold veal, Ib.; mushrooms, ¥ to $ pint: stewed in 14 02. butter, 12 to 15 minutes. Sauce tournée, or thickened veal gravy, 1 pint ; yolks of eggs, 4; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful. Obs.—Any white meat may be served en blanquette. The mushrooms are not indispensable for it, but they are always a great improvement. White sauce substituted for the thickened veal gravy will at once convert this dish into an inexpensive fricassee. Mace, salt, and cayenne, must be added to either preparation, should it require seasoning. MINCED VEAL. When there is neither gravy nor broth at hand, the bones and trimmings of the meat must be boiled down to furnish what is required for the mince. As cold meat is very light in weight, a pound of the white part of the veal will be sufficient CHAP. IX. | VEAL. 219 for a dish, and for this quantity a pint of gravy will be needed. Break down the bones of the joint well, add the trimmings of the meat, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a slice or two of carrot or of celery; a blade of mace, a few white peppercorns, and a bit or two of lean ham, boiled, or unboiled if it can be had, as either will improve the flavour of the mince. Pour to these a pint and a half of water, and stew them gently for a couple of hours ; then strain off the gravy, let it cool and clear it entirely from the fat. Cut the white part of the veal small with a very sharp knife, after all the gristle and brown edges have been trimmed away. Some persons like a portion of fat minced with it, others object to the addition altogether. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful and a half of flour smoothly mixed with a small slice of butter, season the veal with a salt- spoonful or more of salt, and half as much white pepper and grated nutmeg, or pounded mace; add the lightly-grated rind of half a small lemon; mix the whole well, put it into the gravy, and heat it thoroughly by the side of the fire without allowing it to boil; serve it with pale-toasted sippets in and round the dish. A spoonful or two of cream is always an improvement to this mince. MINCED VEAL AND OYSTERS. The most elegant mode of preparing this dish is to mince about a pound of the whitest part of the inside of a cold roast fillet or loin of veal, to heat it without allowing it to boil, ina_ pint of rich white sauce, or béchamel, and to mix with it at the moment of serving, three dozens of small oysters ready bearded, and plumped in their own strained liquor, which is also to be added to the mince; the requisite quantity of salt, cayenne, and mace should be sprinkled over the veal before it is put into the sauce. Garnish the dish with pale fried sippets of bread, or with fleurons* of brioche, or of puff-paste. Nearly half a pint of mushrooms minced, and stewed white in a little butter, may be mixed with the veal instead of the oysters; or should they be very small they may be added to it whole: from ten to twelve minutes will be sufficient to make them tender. Balls of delicately fried oyster-forcemeat laid round the dish will give another good variety of it. Veal minced, 1 lb.; white sauce, 1 pint; oysters, 3 dozens, with their liquor; or mushrooms, } pint, stewed in butter 10 to - 12 minutes * Fleurons, flowers, or flower-like figures, cut out with tin shapes. ; | a tk a ‘ are ho beg me ‘a 220 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX., VEAL-SYDNEY. (GOOD.) Pour boiling on an ounce and a half of fine bread-crumbs nearly half a pint of good veal stock or gravy, and let them stand till cool; mix with them then, two ounces of beef-suet shred very small, half a pound of cold roast veal carefully trimmed from the brown edges, skin, and fat, and finely minced; the grated rind of half a lemon, nearly a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne, the third of a teaspoonful of mace or nutmeg, and four well-beaten eggs. Whisk up the whole well together, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it from three quarters of an hour toan hour. Cream may be used instead of gravy when more convenient, but this last will give the better flavour. A little clarified butter put into the dish before the other ingre- dients are poured in will be an improvement. Bread-crumbs, 14 0z.; gravy or cream, nearly } pint; beef-. suet, 2 ozs. ; cold veal, 3 Ib.; rind of 4 lemon; salt, small tea- spoonful; third as much mace and nutmeg; little cayenne; eggs, 4 large or 5 small: 3 to 1 hour. FRICASSEED VEAL. Divide into small, thick, handsome slices of equal size, about a couple of pounds of veal, quite free from fat, bone, and skin; dissolve a couple of ounces of butter in a wide stewpan, and just as it begins to boil lay in the veal, and shake it over the fire until it is quite firm on both sides; but do not allow it to take the slightest colour. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and when it is well mixed with the cutlets, pour gradually to them, shaking the pan often, sufficient boiling veal-gravy to almost cover them. Stew them gently from fifty to sixty minutes, or longer should they not be perfectly tender. Add a flavouring of mace, some salt, a quarter-pint of rich cream, a couple of egg-yolks, and a little lemon-juice, observing, when the last are added, the directions given for a blanquette of veal, page 218. Strips of lemon-rind can be stewed in the gravy at pleasure. Two or three dozens of mushroom-buttons, added twenty minutes before it is served, will much improve this fricassée. "MUTTON. 221 CHAPTER X. MUTTON. No. No. ‘1. Leg. 6. Shoulder. 2. Best End of Loin. 7. Breast. 3. Chump End of Loin. . A Saddle is the Two Loins. 4. Neck, Best End. A Chine, the Two Necks. 5. Neck, Scrag End. TO CHOOSE MUTTON. Tus best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely-grained, and short-legged; the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright hue, and the fat white and clear: when this is yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad quality. Mutton is not considered by expe- rienced judges to be in perfection until it is nearly or quite five years old; but to avoid the additional expense of feeding the animal so long, it is commonly brought into the market at three years old. ‘The leg and the loin are the superior joints; and the preference would probably be given more frequently to the latter, but for the superabundance of its fat, which renders it a not very economical dish. The haunch consists of the leg and the part of the loin adjoining it; the saddle, of the two loins ‘ together, or of the undivided back of the sheep: these last are always roasted, and are served usually at good tables, or for company-dinners instead of the smaller joints. The shoulder, dressed in the ordinary way, is not very highly esteemed, but when boned, rolled, and filled with forcemeat, it is of more presentable appearance, and to many tastes, far better eating; shough some persons prefer it in its natural form, accompanied. by stewed onions. It is occasionally boiled or stewed, and 222 MODERN COOKERY. - FOHAP. Xe covered with rich onion sauce. The neck is sometimes roasted, but it is more generally boiled; the scrag, or that part of it which joins the head, is seldom used for any other purpose than making broth, and should be taken off before the joint is dressed. Cutlets from the thick end of the loin are commonly preferred to any others, but they are frequently taken likewise from the best end of the neck (sometimes called the back-ribs) and from the middle of the leg. Mutton kidneys are dressed in various ways, and are excellent in many. The trotters and the head of a sheep may be converted into very good dishes, but they are scarcely worth the trouble which is required to render them palatable. The loin and the leg are occasionally cured and smoked like hams or bacon. TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF MUTTON. This joint should be well kept, and when the larder-accom- modations of a house are not good, the butcher should be re- quested to hang it the proper time. Roast it carefully at a large sound fire, and let it remain at a considerable distance for at least a couple of hours; then draw it nearer, but never suf- ficiently so to burn or injure the fat. Keep it constantly basted ; flour it soon after it is laid to the fire, instead of frothing it, as this latter mode is not generally relished, though fashion is in its favour. In from three and a half to four hours, the haunch will be done, and it will require something less of time when not kept back at first, as we have advised; but if roasted en- tirely on the plan mentioned at page 157 it will be much finer than in the usual way. Serve it with a good Espagnole, or with plain mutton-gravy and currant-jelly. This joint, when the meat is of very fine quality, may be dressed and served exactly like venison. 33 to 4 hours. 5 hours or more by the slow method. ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. This is an excellent joint, though not considered a very eco- nomical one. It is usual for the butcher to raise the skin from . it before it is sent in, and to skewer it on again, that in the roasting the juices of the meat may be better preserved, and the fat prevented from taking too much colour, as this should be only slightly browned. In something less than half an hour before the mutton is done, remove the skin, and flour the joint lightly after having basted it well. Our own great objection to frothed meat would lead us to recommend that the skin should be taken off half an hour earlier, and that the joint CHAP. xX.] MUTTON. 223 should be kept at sufficient distance from the fire to prevent the possibility of the fat being burned ; and that something more of time should be allowed for the roasting. With constant basting, great care, and good management, the cook may always ensure the proper appearance of this, or of any other joint (except, perhaps, of a haunch of venison) without having recourse to papering or pasting, or even to replacing the skin; but when unremitted attention cannot be given to this one part of the dinner, it is advisable to take all precautions that can secure it from being spoiled. 23 to 2? hours. More if very large. TO ROAST A LEG OF MUTTON. In a cool and airy larder a leg of mutton will hang many days with advantage, if the kernel be taken out, and the flap wiped very dry when it is first brought in; and it is never tender when freshly killed: in warm weather it should be well dredged with pepper to preserve it from the flies. If washed before it is put upon the spit, it should be wiped as dry as pos- sible afterwards, and well floured soon after it is laid to the fire. When the excellence of the joint is more regarded than the ex- pense of fuel, it should be roasted by what we have denomi- nated the slow method; that is to say, it should be kept at a considerable distance from the fire, and remain at it four hours instead of two: it may be drawn nearer for the last twenty or thirty minutes to give it colour. The gravy will flow from it in great abundance when it is cut, and the meat will be very superior to that roasted in the usual way. When this plan is not pursued, the mutton should still be kept quite a foot from the fire until it is heated through, and never brought suffi- ciently near to scorch or to harden any part.. It should be constantly basted with its own fat, for if this be neglected, all other precautions will fail to ensure a good roast; and after it . is dished a little fine salt should be sprinkled lightly on it, and a spoonful or two of boiling water laded over. ‘This is the most palatable mode of serving it, but it may be frothed when it is preferred so, though we would rather recommend that the flour should be dredged on in the first instance, as it then prevents the juices of the meat from escaping, and forms a savoury coat- ing to it ; while the raw taste which it so often retains with . mere frothing is to many eaters especially objectionable. Leg of mutton, 7 to 8 lbs.; slow method 4 hours, common method 12 to 2 hours. ne a 224 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. ’ Cover the joint well with cold water, bring it gradually to — boil, and let it simmer gently for half an hour ; then lift it out, put it immediately on to the spit, and roast it from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, according to its weight. ‘This mode of dressing the joint renders it remarkably juicy and ten- der; but there must be no delay in putting it on the spit after it is lifted from the water. A mild ragout of garlic (see page 122,) may be served in the dish with it, or it may be garnished with roast tomatas. Boiled, 4 hour ; roast, 14 to 14 hour. BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. Take out the bone as far as the first joint by the directions of the following receipt, roll some large strips of bacon ina seasoning of mixed spice, and of savoury. herbs minced extremely fine, or dried and reduced to powder, and with these lard the inside of the boned portion of the joint; or fill the cavity with forcemeat highly seasoned with eschalot or garlic. Sew up the meat, and place it in a braising-pan, or ham-kettle nearly of its ‘size, with slices of bacon under and over it, two or three onions, \ four or five carrots, two bay leaves, a large bunch of savoury herbs, a few bones, or bits of undressed mutton or veal, and about three quarters of a pint of gravy. Stew the meat as softly as possible from four to five hours, and keep live embers on the top of the pan (or, as this mode of cooking is not general in England, set the mutton, if it can be done conveniently, into a moderately-heated oven, after having luted the edges of the vessel in which it is arranged, with a bit of coarse paste); lift-it cut, strain the gravy, reduce it quickly to glaze, and brush the meat with it; or merely strain, free it from fat, and pour it over the mutton. White beans (haricots blanes), boiled tender and well drained, or a mild ragout of garlic or eschalots, may be laid in the dish under it. The joint can be braised equally well without any part of it being boned. 4 to 5 hours. LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND FORCED. Turn the underside of the mutton upwards, and with a sharp knife cut through the middle of the skin from the knuckle to the first joimt, and raise it from the flesh on the side along which ~ the bone runs, until the knife is just above it, then cut through the flesh down to the bone; work the knife round it in every 7 CHAP. x. | MUTTON. 225 part till you reach the socket; next remove the flat bone from the large end of the joint, and pass the knife freely round the remaining one, as it is not needful to take it out clear of the meat ; when you again reach the middle joint, loosen the skiu round it with great care, and the two bones can then be drawn out without being divided. This being done, fill the cavities with the forcemeat, No. 1. (page 143), adding to it a somewhat high seasoning of eschalot, garlic, or onion ; or cut out with the bone, nearly a pound of the inside of the mutton, chop it fine with six ounces of delicate striped bacon, and mix with it tho- roughly three quarters of an ounce of parsley, and half as much of thyme and winter savory, all minced extremely small ; a half teaspoonful of pepper (or a third as much of cayenne) ; the same of mace, salt, and nutmeg, and either the grated rind of a small lemon, or four eschalots finely shred. When the lower part of the leg is filled, sew the skin neatly together where it has been cut open, and tie the knuckle round tightly, to prevent the escape of the gravy. Replace the flat bone at the large end, and » with a long needle and twine, draw the edges of the meat to- gether over it. If it can be done conveniently, it is better to roast the mutton thus prepared in a cradle spit. or upon a hanging or bottle-jack, with the knuckle downwards. Place it at first far from the fire, and keep it constantly basted. It will require nearly or quite three hours roasting. Remove the twine before it is served, and send it very hot to table with some rich brown gravy. : MOCK VENISON. Hang a plump and finely-grained leg of mutton in a cool place, for as many days as it can possibly be kept without becoming altogether uneatable. Lay it on a dish, pour over, and rub well into it, about half a small cupful of pyroligneous acid, and let it remain ten minutes. Wash it very thoroughly, cut off the knuckle, and trim away the flap, and any part that may continue very offensive, or take a few inches from either end of the joint; then lay it into a close-shutting stewpot, or thick iron saucepan of its own size, with no other liquid than the drops of water which adhere to it, and simmer it over a very slow fire, from four and a half to five hours, turning it several times, that it may be equally done. Give it no seasoning beyond pepper and salt. Should the gravy be too much reduced, add ‘two spoonsful of boiling water, or of mutton gravy. Send the meat to table in its own juices, with currant jelly, or sharp veni- son sauce apart. We owe this receipt entirely to accident; for, Q “eines ae a ; 226 MODERN COOKERY. [oHar. x. wishing to have proof of the anti-putrescent qualities of fed Rae acid, we had it applied to a leg of mutton which — ad been too long kept, and which was dressed in the way we have described. When brought to table, its resemblance to venison, — both in appearance and flavour, was remarkable; and several persons partook of it hashed on the following day, and were all — perfectly unconscious that they were-not really eating venison ; in the latter instance, it was served in rich gravy made in part — of hare; a glass of port wine, a little compound catsup, and a — thickening of rice flour were added. The meat, of course, was only heated through, and not allowed to boil. On a second trial we found it an improvement to touch the mutton in every part with a feather dipped in the acid, as soon as it gave evi- dence of having been sufficiently kept, and then to let it hang three or four days longer: it was again washed with the acid, and afterwards with cold water before it was dressed. TO BOIL A LEG OF MUTTON. (An excellent Receipt.) Trim into handsome form a well-kept, but perfectly sweet leg of mutton, of middling weight ; wash, but do not soak it; lay it into a vessel as nearly of its size as convenient, and pour in rather more than sufficient cold water to cover it; set it over a good fire, and when it begins to boil, take off the scum, and continue to do so until no more appears; throw in a tablespoonful of salt (after the first skimming), which will assist to bring it to the surface, and as soon as the liquor is clear, add two moderate-sized onions, stuck with a dozen cloves, a large faggot of parsley, thyme, and savoury, and four or five large carrots, and half an_ hour afterwards, as many turnips. Draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let the mutton-be simmered gently for two hours and a half, from the time of its first beginning to boil. Serve it with caper, brown cucumber, or oyster, sauce. If stewed softly, as we have directed, the mutton will be found excellent dressed thus; otherwise, it will but resemble the unpalatable and ragged-looking joints of fast-boiled meat, so constantly sent to table by common English cooks. Any undressed bones of veal, mutton, or beef, boiled with the joint, will improve it much, and the liquor will then make excellent soup or bouillon. 2 to 23 hours. COLD ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. When only a few slices have been cut from the middle of the - joint, it will still afford a fillet of tolerable size, which, dressed CHAP. X. ] MUTTON. 227 in the following manner, will make a dish of better appearance and savour than a common hash or mince. Take off as much of the large end of the leg, quite through, as will render that side of the fillet perfectly flat; cut also evenly through the joint, where it has been carved ; then remove the bone from the fillet, and replace it with veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 143); put the meat, with the bones, knuckle, and trimmings, into a stew- pot, or stout saucepan adapted to its size, and just cover it with water, or with broth in preference, when any stock is at hand ; as soon as it boils, add a couple of onions, a bunch of parsley, two or even three bay leaves, four or five carrots, and as many turnips (plenty of vegetables, in fact), and simmer the whole gently for nearly, or quite a couple of hours. Thickening, spice, or store-sauce, can be added to the gravy at will, before the meat is served, which it should be with the vegetables round it. A FILLET OF MUTTON. Cut some inches from either end of a large and well-kept leg of mutton, and leave the fillet shaped like one of veal. Remove the bone, and fill the cavity with forcemeat (No. 1, page 148), which may be flavoured with a little minced eschalot, when its flavour is liked: more forcemeat may be added by detaching the skin sufficiently on the flap side to admit it. When thus prepared, the fillet may be floured, and roasted, served with currant-jelly and brown gravy, or with only melted butter poured over it ; or it may be stewed gently for nearly or quite four hours, in a pint of gravy or water, after having been floured and browned all over in a couple of ounces of butter ; it must then be turned every hour that it may be equally done. ‘Two or three small onions, a faggot of herbs, a couple of carrots sliced, four or five cloves, and twenty whole peppercorns can be added at will. Roasted 2 hours, or stewed 4 hours. TO ROAST A LOIN OF MUTTON. The flesh of the loin of mutton is superior to that of the leg, when roasted ; but to the frugal housekeeper this consideration is usually overbalanced by the great weight of fat attached to it; this, however, when economy is more considered than ap- pearance, may be pared off and melted down for various kitchen uses, or finely chopped, and substituted for suet in making hot pie or pudding crust. When thus reduced in size, the mutton will be soon roasted. If it is to be dressed in the usual way, the 228 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. x. butcher should be desired to take off the skin; care should be taken to preserve the fat from being ever so slightly burned ; it should be managed, indeed, in the same manner as the saddle, in every respect, and carved also in the same way, that is to say, the meat should be cut out in slices the whole length of the back-bone, and close to it. Without the fat, i to 14 hour ; with 14 to 12 hour. TO DRESS A LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. Skin and bone a loin of mutton, and lay it into a stewpan, or braising-pan, with a pint of water, a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves, half a pint of port wine and a spoonful of vine- gar; add, when it boils, a smali faggot of thyme and parsley, and some pepper and salt: let it stew three hours, and turn it often. Make some gravy of the bones, and add it at intervals to the mutton when required. This receipt comes to us so strongly recommended by persons who have partaken frequently of the dish, that we have not thought it needful to prove it ourselves. 3 hours. TO ROAST A SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Flour it well, and baste it constantly with its own dripping ; do not place it close enough to the fire for the fat to be in the slightest degree burned, or even too deeply browned. An hour and a half will roast it, if it be of moderate size. Stewed onions are often sent to table with it. A shoulder of mutton is some-. times boiled, and smothered with onion sauce. 13 hour, SPICED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Bone the joint, and rub it, if large, with four ounces of the coarsest-sugar (or with three, if it be small), well mixed with a dessertspoonful of pounded cloves, half that quantity of pepper and of mace, and a fourth part as much of ginger: the following day add four ounces of salt. Keep the mutton turned, and rubbed occasionally with the pickle from eight to ten days; then roJl it up tight, bind it with a fillet, and stew it gently for four hours in a pint and a half of beef broth, or put into the stewpan with it a pound and a half of neck of beef, three half pints of water, one large mild onion, two carrots, two turnips, and a large faggot of herbs. When the mutton is perfectly tender, serve it with some of its own gravy, thickened and highly flavoured with lemon-pickle, or with any other acid sauce; or send it to table with a good sauce piquante. CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 229° Mutton, 8 to 9 lbs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; cloves, in powder, 1 des- sertspoonful; mace, and pepper, 1 teaspoonful each; ginger, } teaspoonful; salt, 4 ozs.: 8 to 10 days. Beef broth, 14 pint: 4 hours. Obs.—For variety, the inside of the mutton may be thickly strewed with minced herbs before it is rolled. FORCED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Cut off all the flesh from the inside of the joint down to the blade-bone, and reserve it for a separate dish. It may be lightly browned with some turnips or carrots, or both, and made into a small harrico, or stewed simply in its own gravy, or it will make in part, a pudding or a pie. Bone the mutton (see page 167), flatten it on a table, lay over the inside some thin and neatly-trimmed slices of striped bacon, and spread over them some good veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 143) to within an inch of the outer edge; roll the joint up tightly towards the knuckle (of which the bone may be left in or not, at pleasure), secure it well with tape or twine, and stew it gently in good gravy, from four hours to four and a half. 4 to 44 hours. Obs.—In France it is usual to substitute sausage-meat for the bacon and veal stuffing in this dish. MUTTON CUTLETS STEWED IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. (Good.) Trim the fat entirely from some cutlets taken from the loin; just dip them into cold water, dredge them moderately with pep- per, and plentifully, on both sides with flour; rinse a thick iron saucepan.with spring water, and leave a couple of tablespoonsful in it; arrange the cutlets in one flat layer, if it can be done con- veniently, and place them over a very gentle fire ; throw in a little salt when they begin to stew, and let them simmer as softly as Sage but without ceasing, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. If dressed with great care, which they require, they will be equally tender, easy of digestion, and nutritious ; and being at the same time free from everything which can disagree with the most delicate stomach, the receipt will be found a valuable one for invalids. The mutton should be of good quality, but the excellence of the dish mainly depends on its being most gently stewed; for if allowed to boil quickly all the gravy will be dried up, and the meat will be unfit for table. The cutlets must be turned when they are half done: a couple 230 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. of spoonsful of water or gravy may be added to them should they not yield sufficient moisture, but this is rarely needful. 13 to 13 hour. TO BROIL MUTTON CUTLETS. (ENTREE.) These may be taken from the loin, or the best end of the neck, but the former are generally preferred. Trim off a portion of the fat, or the whole of it, unless it be liked ; pepper ' the cutlets, heat the gridiron, rub it with a bit of the mutton suet, broil them over a brisk fire, and turn them often until they are done; this, for the generality of eaters, will be in about eight minutes if they are not more than half an inch thick, which they should not be. French cooks season them with ‘ pepper and salt, and give them a light coating of dissolved butter or of oil, before they are laid to the fire, and we have found the cutlets so managed extremely good. Lightly broiled, 7 to 8 minutes. Well done, 10 minutes. Obs.—A. cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce may be laid under the cutlets when they are dished; or they may be served quite dry, or with brown gravy; or when none is at hand, with good melted butter seasoned with mushroom catsup, cayenne, and Chili vinegar, or lemon-juice. CHINA CHILO. Mince a pound of an undressed loin or leg of mutton, with or without a portion of its fat, mix with it two or three young lettuces shred small, a pint of young peas, a teaspoonful of salt, half as much pepper, four tablespoons- ful of water, from two to three ounces of good butter, and, if the flavour be liked, a few green onions minced. Keep the whole well stirred with a fork, over a clear and gentle fire until it is quite hot, then place it closely covered by the side of the stove, or on a high trevet, that it may stew as softly as possible for a couple of hours. One or even two half-grown cucumbers, cut small by scoring the ends deeply as they are sliced, or a quarter-pint of minced mushrooms may be added with good effect; or a dessertspoonful of currie-powder and a large chopped onion. A dish of boiled rice should be sent to table with it. Mutton, 1 pint; green peas, 1 pint; young lettuces, 2; salt, 1 teaspoonful; pepper, 3 teaspoonful; water, 4 tablespoonsful ; butter, 2 to 3 ozs.: 2 hours. Varieties: cucumbers, 2; or mushrooms minced, } pint; or currie-powder, 1 dessertspoonful, and 1 large onion. CHAP. X.] “MUTTON. 231 A GOOD FAMILY STEW OF MUTTON. Put into a broad stewpan or saucepan, a flat layer of mutton chops, freed entirely from fat and from the greater portion of the bone, then just dipped into cold water, seasoned with pepper, and lightly dredged with flour; on these put a layer of mild turnips sliced half an inch thick, and divided into squares; then some carrots of the same thickness, with a seasoning of salt and black pepper between them ; next, another layer of chops, then plenty of vegetables, and as much weak broth or cold water as will barely cover the whole; bring them slowly to a boil, and let them just simmer from two to three hours, according to the quantity. One or two minced onions may be strewed between the other vegetables when their flavour is liked. The savour of the dish will be increased by browning the chops in a little butter before they are stewed, and still more so by frying the vegetables lightly as well, before they are added to it. A head or two of celery would to many tastes improve the flavour of the whole. In summer, cucumber, green onions, shred lettuces, and green peas may be substituted for the winter vegetables. Mutton, free from fat, 23 lbs.; turnips, 3 lbs.; carrots, 3 lbs. ; celery (if added), 2 small heads: 2 to 3 hours. Obs.—The fat and trimmings of the mutton used for this and for other dishes into which only the lean is admissible, may be turned to advantage by cutting the whole up rather small, and ‘then boiling it in a quart of water to the pound, with a little spice, a bunch of herbs and some salt, until the fat is nearly dissolved : the liquid will then, if strained off and left until cold, make tolerable broth, and the cake of fat which is on the top, if again just melted and poured free of sediment into small ans, will serve excellently for common pies and for frying itchen dinners. Less water will of course produce broth of better quality, and the addition of a small quantity of fresh meat or bones will render it very good. AN IRISH STEW. Take a couple of pounds of small thick mutton cutlets with or without fat according to the taste of the persons to whom the stew is to be served; take also four pounds of good pota- toes, weighed after they are pared, slice them thick, and put a portion of them in a flat layer, into a large thick saucepan or stewpan; season the mutton well with pepper, and place some ~ of it on the potatoes, cover it with another layer, and proceed in the same manner with all, reserving plenty of the vegetable 232 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaAP. x. for the top; pour in three quarters of a pint of cold water, and add, when the stew begins to boil, an ounce of salt; let it simmer gently for two hours, and serve it very hot. When the addition of onion is liked, strew in two or three minced ones with the potatoes. - Mutton cutlets, 2 Ibs.; potatoes, 4 lbs.; pepper, } 0z.; salt, 1 oz. ; water, ? pint: 2 hours. Obs.—For a real Irish stew the potatoes should be boiled to amash : an additional quarter-hour may be necessary for the full quantity here, but for half of it two hours are quite sufficient. CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON. Trim into weli-shaped cutlets, which should not be very thin, the remains of a roast loin or neck of mutton, or of a quite under-dressed stewed or boiled joint; dip them into egg and well seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil or fry them over a quick fire that they may be browned and heated through with- out being too much done. This is a very good mode of serv- ing a half roasted loin or neck. When the cutlets are broiled they should be dipped into, or sprinkled thickly with butter just dissolved, or they will be exceedingly dry; afew additional crumbs should be made to adhere to them after they are mois- tened with this. MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA FRANGAISE. (ENTREE.) Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and without opening them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew over them a large dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two thirds should be parsley and the remainder thyme, with a tole- rable seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and some fine salt. Melt two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both sides; when nearly done, stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of flour and shake them well in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of gravy (or of hot water in default of this), the juice of half a lemon, and as much of Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will flavour the whole pleasantly ; bring these to the point of boiling, and pour them into a dish garnished with fried sippets, or lift out the kidneys first, give the sauce a boil and pourit onthem. We generally have the store-sauce of page 177 (see English stew) used to flavour this dish in preference to simple catsup. In France, a couple of glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, are frequently added to the gravy; one of port wine can be substituted CHAP. X. |] LAMB. 233 for either of these. A dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may be strewed over the kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of very small ones, previously stewed till tender in fresh butter over a gentle fire, may be added after they are dished. This is a very excellent and approved receipt. Fried 6 minutes. BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS. Split them open lengthwise without dividing them; strip off the skin and fat; run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling ; season them with pepper or cayenne; lay them over a clear brisk fire, with the cut sides towards it; turn them in from four to five minutes; and in as many more dish, and serve them quickly, with or without a cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce under them. Erench cooxs season them with pepper and fine salt, and brush a very small quantity of oil, or clarified butter over them before they are broiled: we think this an improvement. 8 to 10 minutes. OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS. (BREAKFAST DISH, OR ENTREE.) Fry gently, in a little good butter, a dozen crotitons (slices of bread, of uniform shape and size, trimmed free from crust), cut half an inch thick, about two inches and a half wide, and from three to four in length: lift them out and keep them hot. Split quite asunder six fine fresh kidneys, after having freed them from the skin and fat; season them with fine salt and cayenne; arrange them evenly in a clean frying-pan, and pour some clarified butter over them. Fry them over a somewhat brisk fire; dish each half upon a crotiton; make a sauce in the pan as for veal cutlets, but use gravy for it instead of water, should it be at hand; add a little wine or catsup; pour it round the crotitons, and serve the kidneys instantly. 10 minutes. TO ROAST A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and plentifully basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready for table; but though it requires quick roasting, it must never be placed sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat, which is very liable to catch or burn. When the joint is served, the shoulder should be separated from the ribs with a sharp knife, and a small slice of fresh butter, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of 284 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X.* lemon juice should be laid between them ; ifthe cook be an expert carver, this had better be done betore the lamb is sent to table. The cold Maitre d’Hotel sauce of page 107, may be substituted for the usual ingredients, the parsley being omitted or not, ac- cording to the taste. Serve good mint sauce, and a fresh salad. with this roast. A leg, shoulder, or loin of lamb should be cooked by the same directions as the quarter, a difference only being made in the time allowed fur each. Fore quarter of lamb, 13 to 2 hours. Leg, 14 hour (less if very small) ; loin, 1 to 13 hour. Obs.—The time will vary a little, of course, from the diffe- rence in the weather, and in the strength of the fire. Lamb should always be well roasted. .SADDLE OF LAMB. This is an exceedingly nice joint for a small party. It should be roasted at a brisk fire, and kept constantly basted with its own dripping: it will require from an hour and three quarters to two hours roasting. Send it to table with mint sauce, and if convenient, with brown cucumber sauce also, and a salad. 12 to 2 hours. Obs.—The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint sauce: — With three heaped tablespoonsful of finely- chopped young mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best vinegar : stir it until the sugar is dissolved. ROAST LOIN OF LAMB. Place it at a moderate distance from a clear fire, baste it fre- quently, froth it when nearly done, and serve it with the same sauces as the preceding joints. A loin of lamb may be boiled and sent to table with white cucumber, mushroom, common. white sauce, or parsley and butter. 1 to 12 hour. ; STEWED LEG OF LAMB WITH WHITE SAUCE. (ENTREE.) Choose a small plump leg of lamb, not much exceeding five pounds in weight ; put it into a vessel nearly of its size, with a few trimmings, or a bone or two of undressed veal if at hand; cover it with cold water, bring it slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with great. care when it is first thrown to the surface, and when it has all been skimmed off, add a bunch of thyme and parsley, and two carrots of moderate size. Let the lamb simmer only, but without ceasing, for an hour and a quarter; serve it covered CHAP. X.] . LAMB. 3 235 with béchamel, or rich English white sauce, and send a boiled tongue to table with it, and some of the sauce in a tureen. 14 hour. LOIN OF LAMB STEWED IN BUTTER. (ENTREE.) Wash the joint, and wipe it very dry; skewer down the flap, and lay it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan, or saucepan, in which three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed to boil ; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle _. fire for two hours and a quarter, and turn it when it is rather more than half done. Lift it out, skim and pour the gravy over it; send brown asparagus, cucumber, or soubise sauce to table with it; or brown gravy, mint sauce, and a salad. 21 hours. LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SOUBISE SAUCE. (ENTREE.) . The best end of two necks of either will be required for a handsome dish. Cut them thin with one bone to each ; trim off the fat and all the skin, scrape’ the bones very clean that they may look white, and season the cutlets with salt and white pepper; brush them with egg, dip them into very fine bread- crumbs, then into clarified butter, and again into the bread- crumbs, which should be flattened evenly upon them, and broil them over a very clear and brisk fire, or fry them in a little good butter of a fine clear brown; press them in two sheets of white blotting paper to extract the grease, and dish them an end, with the points meeting at the top; or place them one over the other in a chain, and pour into the centre a sou- bise, or a purée of cucumbers. Brown cucumber sauce, or a rich gravy, may be substituted for either of these in serving a quite simple dinner. Cutlets of the loin may be dressed in the same way, after being dipped into crumbs of bread mixed with a full seasoning of minced herbs, and a small quantity of eschalot, when its flavour is liked. The small flat bone at the end of the cutlets should be taken off, to give them a very good appearance. LAMB CUTLETS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of time, and an additional spoonful of liquid. CUTLETS OF COLD LAMBe See the receipt for Cutlets of Cold Mutton, page 232, ro (oe) or) MODERN COOKERY. _ [cHar XI. CHAPTER XL PORK. No. No. 1. The Spare Rib. 4. Fore Loin. 2. Hand. 5. Hind Loin. 8. Belly, or Spring. 6. Leg. TO CHOOSE PORK. Tus meat is so proverbially, and we believe even dangerously unwholesome when ill fed, or in any degree diseased, that its quality should be closely examined before it is purchased. When not home-fatted, it should be bought if possible of some respect- able farmer, or miller, unless the butcher who supplies it can be perfectly relied on. Both the fat and lean should be very white, and the latter finely grained; the rind should be thin, smooth, and cool to the touch; if it be clammy, the pork is stale, and should be at once rejected ; it ought also to be scru- ' pulously avoided when the fat, instead of being quite clear of all blemish, is full of small kernels, which are indicative of disease. ‘The manner of cutting up the pork varies im different counties, and also according to the purposes for which it is intended. ‘The legs are either made into hams, or slightly salted for a few days and boiled; they are also sometimes roasted when the pork is not large nor coarse, with a savoury forcemeat inserted between the skin and flesh of the knuckle. The part of the shoulder called the hand is also occasionally pickled in the same way as hams and bacon, or it may be salted and boiled, but it is too sinewy for roasting. After these and the head have been taken off, the remainder, without further division than being split down the back, may be converted into whole sides, CHAP, XI.’} PORK. Boe 237 or flitches, as they are usually called, of bacon; but when the _ meat is large, and required in part for various other purposes, a chine may be taken out, and the fat pared off the bones of the ribs and loins for bacon; the thin part of the body converted into pickled pork, and the ribs and other bones roasted, or made into pies or sausages. ‘The feet, which are generally salted down for immediate use, are excellent if laid for two or three weeks into the same pickle as the hams, then well covered with cold water, and slowly boiled until tender. The loins of young and delicate pork are roasted with the skin on; and this is scored in regular stripes of about a quarter- inch wide with the point of a sharp knife, before the joints are laid to the fire. The skin of the leg also is just cut through in the same manner. This is done to prevent its blistering, and to render it more easy to carve, as the skin (or crackling) becomes. so crisp and hard in the cooking, that it is otherwise sometimes difficult to divide it. To be at any time fit for table, pork must be perfectly sweet, and thoroughly cooked; great attention also should be given to it when it is in pickle, for if any part of it be long exposed to the air, without being turned into, or well and frequently basted with the brine, it will often become tainted during the process of curing it. TO MELT LARD. Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well- fed pig; slice it small and thin; put it into a new or well-scalded jar, set it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a clear fire. As it dissolves, strain it into small stone jars, or deep earthen pans, and when perfectly cold, tie over it the skin that was cleared from the lard, or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped very dry. Lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour, and keeps perfectly well, if stored in a cool . place ; it may be used with advantage in making pastry, as well as for frying fish, and for various other purposes. It is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart from that which is first poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in quality. TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTHS. For the particular uses to which the leaf-fat, or fleed, can be advantageously applied, see fleed-crust, Chapter XVI. It may be kept well during the summer months by rubbing fine salt rather plentifully upon it when it is first taken from the pig, and leaving it for a couple of days; it should then be welk drained, and covered with a strong brine: this, in warmer 238 MODERN COOKERY. weather, should be changed occasionally. When wanted fore : use, lay it into cold water for two or three hours, then wipe it dry, and it will have quite the effect of the fresh leaf when made. into paste. Inner fat of pig, 6 lbs.; fine salt, } to 3 lb: 2 days. ‘Brine; to each quart of water, 6 ozs. salt. TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG. After the pig has been scalded and pre- pared for the spit, wipe it as dry as pos- sible, and put into the body about half a pint of fine bread- crumbs, mixed with three heaped tea- spoonsful of sage, minced very small, three ounces of good butter, a large saltspoon- ful of salt, and two thirds as much of pepper, or some cayenne. Sew it up with soft, but strong cotton, truss it as a hare, with the fore legs skewered back, and the hind ones forward; lay it to a strong, clear fire, but keep it at a moderate distance, as it would quickly blister or scorch, if placed too near. So soon as it has become warm, rub it with a bit of butter, tied in a fold of muslin, or of thin cloth, and repeat this process constantly while it is roasting. When the gravy begins to drop from it, put basins, or small deep tureens under, to catch it in. As soon as the pig is of a fine light amber brown, and the steam draws strongly towards the fire, wipe it quite with a clean cloth, and rub a bit of cold butter over it. When it is half done, a pig iron, or in lieu of this, a large flat iron should be hung in the centre of the grate, or the middle of the pig will be done long before the ends. When it is ready for table, lay it into a very hot dish, and before the spit is withdrawn, take off and open the head, and split the body in two; chop together quickly the stuffing and the brains, put them into half a pint of good veal gravy, ready thickened, add a glass of Madeira or of sherry, and the gravy which has dropped from the pig ; pour a small portion of this under the meat, and serve the remainder as hot as possible in a tureen; a little pounded mace and cayenne, with a squeeze of lemon-juice, may be added, should the flavour require heightening. Fine bread sauce, and plain gravy should likewise be served with it. Some persons CHAP. XI. ] PORK. 239 ‘still prefer the old-fashioned currant sauce to any other; and ~many have the brains and stuffing stirred into rich melted but- ter, stead of gravy ; but the receipt which we have given has usually been so much approved, that we can recommend it with some confidence, as it stands. Modern taste would perhaps be rather in favour of rich brown gravy and thick tomata sauce, or sauce Poivrade. _ In dishing the pig, lay the body flat in the middle, and the head and ears at the ends and sides. When very pure oil can be obtained, it is preferable to butter for the basting : it should be laid on with a bunch of feathers. A suckling of three weeks old is considered as best suited to the spit; and it should always be dressed, if possible, the day it is killed. 11 to 13 hour. BAKED PIG. Prepare the pig exactly as for roasting, truss, and place it in the dish in which it is to be sent to the oven, and anoint it thickly in every part with white of egg which has been slightly beaten: it will require no basting, nor further attention of any kind, and will be well crisped by this process. PIG A LA TARTARE. When the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire, take them off with care, remove the skin, trim them into good form, dip them into clarified butter or very pure salad oil, then into fine crumbs highly seasoned with cayenne and mixed with about a half-teaspoonful of salt. Broil them over a clear brisk fire, and send them quickly to table, as soon as they are heated through and equally browned, with tomata sauce, or sauce Robert. Curried crumbs and a currie-sauce will give an ex- cellent variety of this dish; and savoury herbs, with two or three eschalots chopped small together and mixed with the bread-crumbs, and brown eschalot sauce to accompany the broil, will likewise be an acceptable one to many tastes. SUCKING PIG EN BLANQUETTE. (ENTREE.) Raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig, free it from the crisp outer skin or crackling, and cut it down into small handsome slices. Dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg, and, if they can be easily procured, throw in a handful of button- mushrooms, cleaned and sliced; shake these over the fire for three or four minutes, then stir to them a dessertspoonful of flour, and continue to shake or toss them gently, but do not / 240 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI. allow them to brown. Add a small bunch of parsley, a bay- leaf, a middling-sized blade of mace, some salt, a small quantity of cayenne or white pepper, half a pint of good veal or beef broth, and from two to three glasses of light white wine. Let these boil gently until reduced nearly one third; take out the parsley and mace, lay in the meat, and bring it slowly to the point of simmering; stir to it the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, and the strained juice of half a lemon. Serve the blan- quette very hot. TO ROAST PORK. When the skin is left on the joint which is to be roasted, it must be scored in narrow strips of equal width, before it is put to the fire, and laid at a considerable distance from it at first, that the meat may. be heated through before the skin hardens or begins to brown; it must never stand still for an instant, and the basting should be constant. Pork is not at the present day much served at very good tables, particularly in this form; and it is so still less with the old savoury stuffing of sage and onions, though some eaters like it always with the leg: when it is ordered for this joint, therefore, prepare it as directed for a goose, at page 146, and after having loosened the skin from the knuckle, insert as much as can well be secured init. A little clarified butter, or salad oil may be brushed over the skin quite at first, particularly should the meat not be very fat, but unless remarkably lean, it will speedily yield sufficient dripping to baste it with. Joints from which the fat has been pared, will require of course far less roasting than those on which the crackling is retained. Brown gravy and apple or tomata sauce, are the usual accompaniments to all roasts of pork, except a sucking pig; they should always be thoroughly cooked. Leg of pork of 8 lbs., 3 hours; loin of from 5 to 6 lbs. with the skin on, 2 to 23 hours; spare-rib of 6 to 7 Ibs., 12 hour. TO ROAST A SADDLE OF PORK. The skin of this joint may be removed entirely, but if left on it must be scored lengthwise, or in the direction in which it will be carved. The pork should be young, of fine quality, and of moderate size. Roast it very carefully, either by the directions given in the preceding receipt, or when the skin is taken off, by those for a saddle of mutton, allowing in the latter case from three quarters of an hour to a full hour more of the fire for it in proportion to its weight. Serve it with good brown gravy CHAP. 2) PORK. 241 and tomata sauce, or sauce Robert; or with apple sauce should it be preferred. 20 minutes to the pound, quite. TO BROIL OR FRY PORK CUTLETS. Cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork, trim them into neat form, and take off part of the fat, or the whole of it when it is not liked; dredge a little pepper or cayenne upon them, and broil them over a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes, sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are dished. They may be dipped into egg and then into bread-crumbs mixed with minced sage, then finished in the usual way. When fried, flour them well, and season them with salt and pepper first. Serve them with gravy made in the pan, or with sauce Robert. 'COBBETT’S RECEIPT FOR CURING BACON. (Extracted from his “ Cottage Economy.”) “ Allother parts being taken away, the two sides that remain, and which are called flziches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their inside, or flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost in a salting trough, which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine; for to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of taste that barrel- pork and sea-junk have, and than which nothing is more villainous, Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state. Therefore, change the salt often ; once in four or five days. Let it melt and sink in, but let it not lie too long. Change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on the top. Do this a couple of times. This mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode ; but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As to the time required for making the flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances; the thickness of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place wherein the salting is going on. It takes a longer time for a thick than for a thin flitch; it takes longer in dry than in damp weather, it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place. But for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or very damp, about six weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give time enough ; for you are to have bacon till Christmas comes again. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but R 242 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. xt. always admit of a free circulation of air; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied with a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two pre- cautions are necessary: first to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them, and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the time that it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire be large or small. A month will do if the fire be pretty constant, and such as-a farm house fire usually is. But over- smoking, or rather, too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust. Great attention should, therefore, be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh-side pretty thickly over with bran or with some fine saw-dust, not of deal or fir. Rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it. This keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried on. “To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift fine some clean and dry wood-ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch ; and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp they should be put in the fire-place to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day.” bs.—Although the preceding directions for curing the bacon ‘are a little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork, we think those for its after-management will be acceptable to many of our readers, as in our damp climate it is often a matter of great difficulty to preserve hams and bacon through the year from rust. A GENUINE YORKSHIRE RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS AND BACON. “Let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours before they are killed (and observe that neither a time of severe frost, nor very damp weather is favourable for curing bacon). After a pig has beer killed and scalded, let it hang twelve hours before it is cut up, then for every stone, or fourteen pounds’ weight of the meat, take one pound of salt, an ounce and a GHAP. x1:| PORK. 243 quarter of saltpetre, and half an ounce of coarse sugar. Rub the sugar.and saltpetre first into the fleshy parts of the pork, and remove carefully with a fork any extravasated blood that may appear on it, together with the broken vessels adjoining ; apply the salt especially to those parts, as well as to the shank- ends of the hams, and any other portions of the flesh that are more particularly exposed. Before the salt is added to the meat, warm it a little before the fire, and use only a part of it in the first instance; then, as it dissolves, or is absorbed by the meat, add the remainder at several different times. Let the meat in the mean while lie either on clean straw, or on a cold brick or stone floor: it will require from a fortnight to three weeks’ curing, according to the state of the atmosphere. When done, hang it in a cool dry place, where there is a thorough current of air, and let it remain there until it is perfectly dry, when the salt will be found to have crystallized upon the surface. The meat may then be removed to your store, and kept in a close chest, surrounded with clean outer straw. If very large, the hams will not be in perfection in less than twelve months from the time of their being stored.” Pork, 20 stone; salt, 20 lbs.; saltpetre, 20 ozs.; sugar, 10 ozs.: 14 to 21 days. . KENTISH MODE OF CUTTING UP AND CURING A PIG. To a porker of sixteen stone Kentish weight, (that is to say, eight pounds to the stone, or nine stone two pounds of common weight), allow two gallons of salt, two pounds of saltpetre, one pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds of bay-salt, well dried and reduced to powder. Put aside the hams and cheeks to be cured by themselves; let the feet, ears, tail, and eye-parts of the head be salted for immediate eating. The blade-bones, and ends of the loins and ribs reserved for sausage-meat should it be wanted, and the loin and spare-ribs for roasting. Divide and salt the remainder thus: Mix well together the saltpetre, sugar, and bay-salt, and rub the pork gently with them in every part; cover the bottom of the pickling tub with salt, and pack in the pork as closely as possible, with a portion of the remaining salt between each layer. gradually either hot water, or broth from the stock-pot ; cover the stewpan, and let the whole boil up. Meanwhile, have ready the meat of a cocoa-nut, grated or rasped fine, put this into the stewpan with a few sour tamarinds (if they are to be obtained, if not, a sour apple, chopped). Let the whole simmer over the fire until the apple is dissolved, and the cocoa-nut very tender; then add a cupful of strong thickening made of flour and water, and sufficient salt, as'a currie will not bear being salted at table. Let this boil up for five minutes. Have ready also, a vegetable marrow, or part of one, cut into bits, and sufficiently boiled to require little or no further cooking. Put this in with a tomata or two; either of these vegetables may be omitted. Now put into the stewpan the oysters with their liquor, and the milk of the cocoa-nut; stir them well with the former ingredients; let the currie stew gently for a few minutes, then throw in the strained juice of half a lemon. Stir the currie from time to time with a wooden spoon, and as soon as * We find that a small portion of Indian pickled mango, or of its liquor, is an | agreeuble addition to a currie, as well as to mullagatawny soup. : 294 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XIV. the oysters are done enough serve it up with a corresponding dish of rice on the opposite side of the table. The dish is con- sidered at Madras the ne plus ultra of Indian cookery.”* We have extracted this receipt, as it stands, from the. Maga- zine of Domestic Economy, the season in which we have met with it not permitting us to have it tested. Such of our read- ers as may have partaken of the true Oriental preparation, will be able to judge of its correctness; and others may consider it worthy of a trial. We should suppose it necessary to beard the oysters. CURRIED GRAVY. The quantity of onion, eschalot, or garlic used for a currie should be regulated by the taste of the persons for whom it is prepared ; the very large proportions of them which are accept- able to some eaters, preventing others altogether from partaking of the dish. Slice, and fry gently in a little good butter, from a couple to six large onions (with a bit of garlic, and four or five eschalots, or none of either), when they are coloured equally of a fine yellow-brown, lift them on to a sieve reversed to drain; put them into a clean saucepan, add a pint and a half of good gravy, with a couple of ounces of rasped cocoa-nut, or of any other of the condiments we have already specified, which may require as much stewing as the onions (an apple or two, for instance), and simmer them softly from half to three quar- ters of an hour, or until the onion is sufficiently tender to be pressed through a strainer. We would recommend that for a delicate currie this should always be done; for a common one’ — ’ it is not necessary ; and many persons prefer to have the whole of it left in this last. After the gravy has been worked through the strainer, and again boils, add to it from three to four des- sertspoonsful of currie-powder, and one of flour, with as much salt as the gravy may require, the whole mixed to a smooth batter with a small cupful of good cream.* Simmer it from fifteen to twenty minutes, and it will be ready for use. Lob- ster, prawns, shrimps, maccaroni, hard-boiled eggs, cold calf’s head, and various other meats may be heated and served in it with advantage. For all of these, and indeed for every kind of currie, acid of some sort should be added. Chili vinegar an- swers well when no fresh lemon-juice is at hand. * Native oysters, prepared as for sauce, may be curried by the receipt for eggs or sweetbreads, with the addition of their liquor. ; + This must be added only just before the currie is dished, when any acid fruit has been boiled in the gravy: it may then be first blended with a small portion of arrow-foot, or flour, & CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 295 Onions, 2 to 6 (garlic, 1 clove, or eschalots, 4 to 5, or neither); fried a light brown. Gravy, 1} pint; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. (3, if very young): 3 to $ hour. Currie-powder, 3 to 4 dessert- spoonsful; flour, 1 dessertspoonful ; salt, as needed; cream, 1 small cupful: 15 to 20 minutes. __ Obs.—In India, curds are frequently added to curries, but that may possibly be from their abounding much more than sweet cream in so hot a climate. POTTED MEATS, Any tender and well-roasted meat, taken free of fat, skin, and gristle, as well as from the dry outsides, will answer for potting admirably, better, indeed, than that which is generally baked _ for the purpose, and which is usually quite deprived of its Juices by the process. Spiced or corned beef also is excellent when thus prepared; and any of these will remain good a long time if mixed with cold fresh butter, instead of that which is clarified ; but no addition that can be made to it will render the meat eatable, unless it be thoroughly pounded ; reduced, in fact, to the smoothest possible paste, free from a single lump or a morsel of unbroken fibre. If rent into fragments, instead of being cut quite through the grain, in being minced, before it is put into the mortar, no beating will bring it to the proper state. Unless it be very dry, it is better to pound it for some time before any butter is added, and it must be long and . patiently beaten after all the ingredients are mixed, that the whole may be equally blended and well mellowed in flavour. The quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature of the meat; ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion than roast meat, or than the breasts of poultry and game ; white fish, from being less dry, will require comparatively little. Salmon, lobsters, prawns, and shrimps are all extremely good, prepared in this way. They should, however, be perfectly fresh when they are pounded, and be set immediately after- wards into a very cool place. For these, and for white meats in general, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne or white pepper, are the appropriate spices. A small quantity of cloves may be added to hare and other brown meat, but allspice we would not re- commend unless the taste is known to be in favour of it. The following receipt for pounding ham will serve as a general one © for the particular manner of proceeding. * 2 296 MODERN COOKERY. (CHAP. XIv. POTTED HAM. (An excellent Receipt.) To be eaten in perfection this should be made with a freshly cured ham, which, after having been soaked for twelve hours, should be wiped dry, nicely trimmed, closely wrapped in coarse paste, and baked very tender.* When it comes from the oven, remove the crust and rind, and when the ham is perfectly cold, take for each pound of the lean, which should be weighed after every morsel of skin and fibre has been carefully removed, six ounces of cold roast veal, prepared with equal nicety. Mince these quite fine with an exceedingly sharp knife, taking care to cut through the meat, and not to tear the fibre, as on this much of the excellence of the preparation depends. Next put it intoa Jarge stone or marble mortar, and pound it to the smoothest paste with eight ounces of fresh butter, which must be added by degrees. When three parts beaten, strew over it a tea- spoonful of freshly-pounded mace, half a large, or the whole of a small nutmeg grated, and the third of a teaspoonful of ca- yenne well mixed together. It is better to limit the spice to this quantity in the first instance, and to increase afterwards either of the three kinds to the taste of the parties to whom the meat is to be served.f We do not find half a teaspoonful of cayenne, and nearly two teaspoonsful of mace, more than is generally approved. After the spice is added, keep the meat often turned from the sides to the middle of the mortar, that it may be seasoned equally in every part. When perfectly pounded, press it into small potting-pans, and pour clarified butter{ over the top. If kept in a cool and dry place, this. meat will remain good for a fortnight, or more. Lean of ham, 1 lb.; lean of roast veal, 6 ozs.; fresh butter, © 8 ozs.; mace, from 1 to 2 teaspoonsful; 3 large nutmeg; ca- yenne, } to } teaspoonful. Obs.—The roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the ham alone is generally too salt; for the same reason butter, fresh taken from the churn, or that which is but slightly salted and quite new, should be used fur it in preference to its own fat. When there is no ready-dressed veal in the house, the best part of the neck, roasted or stewed, will supply the * See Baked Ham, Chapter XI., page 247. + Spice, it must be observed, varies so very greatly in its quality that discretion is always necessary in using it. { This should never be poured hot on the meat: it should be less than milk- warm when added to it. ¥ CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 297 requisite quantity. The remains of a cold boiled ham will answer quite well for potting, even when a little dry. POTTED CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, OR PHEASANT. Roast the birds as for table, but let them be thoroughly done, for if the gravy be left in, the meat will not keep half so well. Raise the flesh of the breast, wings, and merrythought quite clear from the bones, take off the skin, mince, and then pound it very smoothly with about one third of its weight of fresh butter, or something less, if the meat should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity; season it with salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small portions until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last: proceed with it as with other potted meats. POTTED OX-TONGUE. te Boil tender an unsmoked tongue of good flavour, and the following day cut from it the quantity desired for potting, or take for this purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table. ‘Trim off the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it very small, then pound it as fine as possible with four ounces of butter to each pound of tongue, a small tea- spoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg and cloves, and a tolerably high seasoning of cayenne. After the spices are well beaten with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A few ounces of any well-roasted meat mixed with the tongue will give it firmness, in which it is apt to be deficient... The breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants may be used for the purpose with good effect. Tongue, 1 lb.; butter, 4 ozs.; mace, 1 teaspoonful ; nutmeg and cloves each, } teaspoonful ; cayenne, 5 to 10 grains. ; POTTED ANCHOVIES. Scrape the anchovies very clean, raise the flesh from the bones, and pound it to a perfect paste in a Wedgwood or marble mortar; then with the back of a wooden spoon press it through a hair-sieve reversed. Next, weigh the anchovies, and pound them again with double their weight of the freshest butter that can be procured, a high seasoning of mace and cayenne, and a small quantity of finely-grated nutmeg; set the mixture by in a cool place for three or four hours to harden it before it is put into the potting pans. If butter be poured over, it must be only lukewarm; but the anchovies will keep well for two or three weeks without. A little rose-pink may be added to 298 MODERN COOKERY. [onap. xIv. improve the colour, but it must be used sparingly, or it will impart-a bitter taste. The quantity of butter can be increased or diminished in proportion as it is wished that the flavour of the anchovies should prevail. . bed Anchovies pounded, 3 ozs.; butter, 6 ozs.; mace, third of teaspoonful ; half as much cayenne ; little nutmeg. LOBSTER BUTTER. Pound to the smoothest paste the coral of one or two fine bsters, mix with it about a third of its volume of fresh butter, — and the same proportion of spices as are given in the preceding receipt. Let the whole be thoroughly blended; set it by fora while in a cool place and pot it, or make it up into small pats and serve them with curled parsley round the dish, or with any light foliage that will contrast well with their brilliant colour. The flesh of the lobster may be ctit fine with a very sharp knife, and pounded with the coral. POTTED SHRIMPS, OR PRAWNS. (Delicious.) Let the fish be quite freshly boiled, shell them quickly, and just before they are put into the mortar, chop them a little with a very sharp knife; pound them perfectly with a small quantity of fresh butter, mace, and cayenne. Shrimps (uushelled), 2 quarts; butter, 2 to 4 ozs.; mace, 1 small 2 hour. TO DRY GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. Take the finest green gooseberries, fully grown, and freshly gathered ; cut off the buds, split them across the tops half way down, and with the small end of a tea or of an egg-spoon, scoop out the seeds. Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound 7 470 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXI.. and a half of the finest sugar, and a pint of water; skim this 3 Ee syrup thoroughly and throw into it a pound of the seeded — gooseberries; simmer them from five to seven minutes, when they ought to be clear and tender ; when they are so, lift them out, and throw as many more into the syrup; drain them a little when done, spread them singly on dishes, and dry them very gradually in a quite cool stove or oven, or in a sunny window. They will keep well in the syrup, and may be potted in it, and dried when wanted for use. Green gooseberries without the seeds, 2 lbs.; water, 1 pint; sugar, 13 lb.: boiled, 15 minutes. Gooseberries simmered, 5 to 7 minutes. GREEN GOOSEBERRIES FOR TARTS. Fill very clean, dry, wide-necked bottles with gooseberries gathered the same day, and before they have attained their full growth. Cork them lightly, wrap a little hay round each. of them, and set them up to their necks in a copper of cold water which should be brought very gradually to boil. Let the fruit be gently simmered until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded ; then take out the bottles, and with the contents of one or two. fill up the remainder, and use great care not to break the fruit in doing this. When all are ready pour scalding water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely with it, or they. _ will become mouldy at the top. Cork the bottles well imme- diately, and cover the necks with melted rosin; keep them in a. cool place; and when they are used pour off the greater part of the water, and add sugar as for the fresh fruit, of which they will have quite the flavour and appearance; and they will be found much more wholesome prepared in this manner than if simply baked or steamed in the bottles. | GREEN GOOSEBERRY SOLID. Bruise well, and boil six pounds of fresh green gooseberries for an hour and a quarter without sugar, and for half an hour after having stirred to them a couple of pounds of good quality, reduced quite to powder. Press the preserve into shallow pans or small shapes, and unmould it when it is wanted for © table. _ Green gooseberries, 6 Ibs.: 13 hour. Sugar, 2 Ibs.: 2 hour. RED GOOSEBERRY JAM. The small rough red gooseberry, when fully ripe, is the best for this preserve, which may, however, be made of the larger MS a ae ey eae CHAP. XXI. ] _ PRESERVES. 471. kinds. When the buds and stalks have been taken carefully from the fruit, weigh, and boil it quickly for three quarters of an hour, keeping it well stirred; then for six pounds of the gooseberries, add two and a half of good roughly-powdered. sugar (or three of fine Lisbon, if only a common preserve be wanted); boil these together briskly, from twenty to twenty- five minutes and stir the jam well from the bottom of the pan, as it is liable to burn if this be neglected. : Small red gooseberries, 6 lbs.: $ hour. Pounded sugar, 23 lbs. (for common jam Lisbon sugar 3 Ibs.) : 20 to 25 mi- nutes. VERY FINE GOOSEBERRY JAM. Seed the fruit, which for this jam may be of the larger kind: of rough red gooseberry: those which are smooth skinned are generally of far inferior flavour. Add the pulp which has been scooped from the prepared fruit to some whole gooseberries, and stir them over a moderate fire for some minutes to extract the juice ; strain and weigh this; pour two pounds of it to four of the seeded gooseberries, boil them rather gently for twenty-five minutes, add fourteen ounces of good pounded sugar to each pound of fruit and juice, and when it is dissolved boil the preserve from twelve to fifteen minutes longer, and skim it well during the time. Seeded gooseberries, 4 lbs. ; juice of gooseberries, 2 Ibs. : 25 minutes. Sugar, 5+ lbs. (or 14 ozs. to each pound fruit and juice): 12 to 15 minutes. JELLY OF RIPE GOOSEBERRIES. (Lacellent.) * Take the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of any kind of well-flavoured ripe red gooseberries, and keep them stirred gently over a clear fire until they have yielded all their juice, which should then be poured off without pressing the fruit, and, passed first through a fine sieve, and afterwards through a double muslin-strainer, or a jelly-bag. Next weigh it, and to every three pounds add one of white currant juice, which has previously been prepared in the same way; boil these quickly for a quarter of an hour, then draw them from the fire and stir to them half their weight of good sugar ; when this is dissolved, boil the jelly for six minutes longer, skim it thoroughly, and pour it into jars or moulds. If a very large quantity be made, a few minutes of additiong) boiling must be given to it before the sugar is added, ” * 472 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXf.> Juice of red gooseberries, 3 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 1 lb.: 15 minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs.: 6 minutes. Obs.—The same proportion of red currant juice, mixed with that of the gooseberries makes an exceedingly nice jelly. UNMIXED GOOSEBERRY JELLY. ' Boil rapidly for ten minutes four pounds of the juice of red gooseberries, prepared as in the preceding receipt ; take it from the fire, and stir in it until dissolved three pounds of sugar beaten to powder ; boil it again for five minutes, keeping it constantly stirred and thoroughly skimmed. Juice of red gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 5 minutes. GOOSEBERRY PASTE. : Press through a sieve the gooseberries from which the juice has been taken for jelly, without having been drained very closely from them; weigh and then boil the pulp for upwards of an hour and a quarter, or until it forms a dry paste in the . pan; stir to it, off the fire, six ounces of good pounded sugar for each pound of the fruit, and when this is nearly dissolved boil the preserve from twenty to twenty-five minutes, keeping it stirred without cessation, as it will be liable to burn should this be neglected. Put it into moulds, or shallow pans, and turn it out when wanted for table. Pulp of gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 1} to 13 hour. Sugar, 14 lb. ; 20 to 25 minutes. TO DRY RIPE GOOSEBERRIES WITH SUGAR. _ Cut the tops, but not the stalks, from some ripe gooseberries of the largest size, either red or green ones, and after having taken out the seeds as directed for unripe gooseberries, boil the’ fruit until clear and tender, in syrup made with a pound of sugar to the pint of water, boiled until rather thick. Seeded gooseberries, 2 lbs.; sugar, 1} lb.; water, 1 pint: boiled to syrup. Gooseberries, simmered 8 to 12 minutes, or more. Obs.—Large ripe gooseberries stripped of their buds, and put into cold syrup in which cherries or any other fruit has been boiled for drying, then heated very gradually, and kept at the: point of boiling for a few minutes before they are set by for a couple of days, answer extremely well as a dry preserve. On ~ the third day the syrup should be drained eonn them, sim- mered, skimmed, and poured on them the instant it is taken’ CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 473 from the fire; in forty-eight hours after, they may be drained from it and laid singly upon plates or dishes, and placed in a gentle stove or oven. GOOSEBERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. Choose them fine and ripe, spread them separately on large dishes, and dry them very gradually by the heat of a gentle oven, or in the sun where they will be well protected from dust. If flattened with the finger when partially done, they will preserve a better form, and be more quickly dried. CHERRY JAM. First stone, and then weigh some freshly gathered Kentish or Flemish cherries; boil them over a brisk fire for an hour, keeping them almost constantly stirred from the bottom of the pan, to which they will otherwise be liable to stick and burn; add half a pound of good sugar roughly powdered for each pound of the fruit, and boil the preserve quickly for twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. ‘The blanched kernels of part of the cherries may be added to the jam five minutes before it is taken from the fire. We can recommend this receipt as producing a firm preserve of fine colour and flavour, and very far superior to any that can be made by the more common method of boiling the fruit and sugar together from the beginning. Stoned cherries, 6 lbs.: 1 hour. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 20 minutes. Obs.—Increase the proportion of sugar, when it is liked, to twelve or sixteen ounces, and diminish the boiling a quarter of an hour before it is added, and ten minutes after. We have found almost invariably, that preserves made by the receipts we have given have been preferred to richer ones. TO DRY CHERRIES WITH SUGAR. (A quick and easy method.) ’ Stone some fine, sound, Kentish, or Flemish cherries; weigh and put them into a preserving pan, with six ounces of sugar reduced to powder, to each pound of the fruit; set them over a moderate fire, and simmer them gently for nearly or quite twenty minutes; let them remain in the syrup until they are a little cooled, then turn them into a sieve, and before they are cold lay them singly on dishes, and dry them very gradually, as directed for other fruits. When the cherries are quite ripe the stones may generally be drawn out with the stalks, by gait | MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. Xxt. pressing the fruit gently at the same time; but when this method fails, they must be extracted with a new quill, cut round at the end: those of the very short-stalked, turnip- shaped cherry, which abounds, and is remarkably fine in many arts of Normandy, and which we have occasionally met with ere, though it is not, we believe, very abundant in our mar- kets, are easily removed with a large pin, on the point of which the stone may be caught at the stalk end, just opposite the seam of the fruit, and drawn out at the top, leaving the cherry apparently entire. | DRIED CHERRIES. (Superior Recetpt.) To each pound of cherries, weighed after they are stoned, add eight ounces of good sugar, and boil them very softly for ten minutes; pour them into a large bowl, or pan, and leave them two days in the syrup; then simmer them again for ten minutes, and set them by for two or three days; drain them slightly, and dry them very slowly, as directed in the previous receipts. Keep them in tin cases, or canisters, “when done. These cherries are generally preferred to such as are dried with a larger proportion of sugar; but when the taste is in favour of the latter, three quarters, or a full pound, can be allowed to the pound of fruit, which may then be potted in the syrup and _ dried at any time; though we think the flavour of the cherries is better preserved when this is done within a fortnight of their being boiled. Cherries, stoned, 8 lbs. ; sugar, 4 Ibs.: 10 minutes. Left two or three days. Boiled again, 10 minutes ; left two days; drained and dried. CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. These are often more pleasant and refreshing to invalids and travellers'than a sweetened confection of the fruit, their flavour and agreeable acidity being well preserved when they are simply spread on dishes or hamper-lids, and slowly dried.* Throw aside the bruised and decayed fruit, and arrange the remainder singly, and with the stalks uppermost on the dishes. The Kentish cherries are best for the purpose, but Morellas also answer for it excellently. The former are sometimes stoned, — and simmered until quite tender in their own juice, before they are dried; but this is scarcely an improvement on the more - usual method of leaving them entire. _ © The dishes on which they are laid should be changed daily. bid CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. ae ¥ MORELLA CHERRIES. __ Take off the stalks but do not stone the fruit; weigh and add to it an equal quantity of the best sugar reduced quite to pow- der, strew it over the cherries and let them stand for half an hour ; then turn them gently into a preserving-pan, and simmer them softly from five to seven minutes. a COMMON CHERRY CHEESE. _ Stone the fruit, or if this trouble be objected to, bruise and boil it without, until it is sufficiently tender to press. through a sieve, which it will be in from twenty to thirty minutes. Weigh the pulp in this case, and boil it quickly to a dry paste, then stir to it six ounces of sugar for the pound of fruit, and when this is dissolved, place the pan again over, but not upon, a brisk fire, and stir the preserve without ceasing, until it is so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched; then press it. immediately into small moulds or pans, and turn it from them when wanted for table. When the cherries have been stoned, a good common preserve may be made of them without passing them through a sieve, with the addition of five ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit, which must be boiled very dry both before and after it is added. - Kentish -or Flemish cherries without stoning: 20 to 30 minutes. Passed through a sieve. To each pound of pulp (first boiled dry), 6 ozs. sugar.. To each pound of cherries. stoned and boiled to dry paste, 5 ozs. sugar. CHERRY PASTE. (FRENCH.) Stone the cherries; boil them gently in their own juice for thirty minutes ; press the whole through a sieve; reduce it to a very dry paste; then take it from the fire, and weigh it ; boil an equal proportion of sugar to the candying point; mix the fruit with it; and stir the paste, without intermission, over a moderate fire, until it is again so dry as to form a ball round the spoon, and to quit the preserving-pan entirely ; press it quickly into small moulds, and when it is cold, paper, and store it like other preserves. . STRAWBERRY JAM. Strip the stalks from some fine scarlet strawberries, weigh, and boil them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them very con- stantly stirred; throw in eight ounces of good sugar, beaten small, to the pound of fruit; mix them well off the fire, then AT6 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XXIo boil the preserve again quickly for twenty-five minutes. " One pound of white currant-juice added in the first instance to four - of the strawberries, will greatly improve this preserve, which will be quite firm, and sufficiently, but not over sweet. Strawberries, 6 lbs.: 35 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 25 minutes. Or: strawberries, 4 lbs.; currant-juice, 1 lb.:; 30 to 35 minutes. Sugar, 2} lbs.: 25 minutes. Obs.—We do not think it needful to give directions with each separate receipt for skimming the preserve with care, and keeping it constantly stirred, but neither should in any case be neglected. . STRAWBERRY JELLY. This, when made with fine, full-flavoured, scarlet straw- berries, is a very delicious preserve, and is by many persons preferred to guava jelly, which it greatly resembles. Stalk the fruit, bruise it very slightly, and stir it for a few minutes over a.gentle fire ; strain it without pressure, weigh, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes in a German enamelled stewpan, or preserving-pan, if possible, that the colour may not be injured; take it from the fire, and stir into it twelve ounces of sugar to the pound of juice; when this is dissolved, boil it again quickly for twenty minutes, clear it perfectly from scum, and pour it into jars or glasses. ‘The preserve will be firmer, and require less boiling, if one fourth of red or white currant- juice be mixed with that of the strawberries, but the flavour will not then be quite so perfect. A superior jelly to this is made by taking an equal weight of juice and sugar, and by boiling the latter to candy height, before the juice (which should previously be boiled five minutes) is added to it; and when they have been stirred together off the fire until this is entirely dissolved, boiling the whole quickly from ten to twenty minutes; the time required varying very much from the diffe- rence which is found in the quality of the fruit. Fruit, simmered 4 to 5 minutes. Juice of strawberries, 4 lbs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 20 minutes. Or: juice of strawberries, 4lbs.: 5 minutes. Sugar, boiled to candy height, 4 lbs.: 10 to 20 minutes. . . ANOTHER VERY FINE STRAWBERRY JELLY. Express the juice from the fruit through a cloth, strain it clear, weigh, and stir to if an equal proportion of the finest sugar, dried and reduced to powder; when this is dissolved, place the preserving-pan over a very clear fire, and stir the CHAP. XXI. | | PRESERVES. AT? jelly often until it boils; clear it carefully from scum, and boil it quickly from fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Equal weight of strawberry-juice and sugar: 15 to 25 minutes. : Obs.—This receipt is for a moderate quantity of the pre- serve : a very small portion will require much less time. TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES, FOR CREAMS © - OR ICES, WITHOUT BOILING. Let the fruit be gathered in the middle of a warm day, in very dry weather ; strip it from the stalks directly, weigh it, turn it into a bowl or deep pan, and mix with it an equal weight of fine dry sifted sugar, and put it immediately into small, wide-necked bottles ; cork these firmly without delay, and tie bladder over the tops. Keep them in a cool place, or the fruit will ferment. The mixture should be stirred softly, and only just sufficiently to blend the sugar and the fruit. ‘The bottles must be perfectly dry, and the bladders, after having been cleaned in the usual way, and allowed to become nearly so, should be moistened with a little spirit on the side which is to be next to the cork. Unless these pre- cautions be observed, there will be some danger of the whole being spoiled. Equal weight of fruit and sugar. | RASPBERRY JAM. Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of ripe, and freshly-gathered raspberries, and boil them over a brisk fire for twenty-five minutes ; stir to them half their weight of good sugar, roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved, boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes, keeping it well stirred and skimmed. When a richer jam is wished for, add to the fruit at first its full weight of sugar, and boil them together twenty minutes. Raspberries, 6 lbs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes. » GOOD RED OR WHITE RASPBERRY JAM. Boil quickly, for twenty minutes, four pounds of either red or white sound ripe raspberries in a pound and a half of cur- rant-juice of the same colour; take the pan from the fire, stir in three pounds of sugar, and when it is dissolved, place the pan again over the fire, and continue the boiling for ten minutes longer: keep the preserve well skimmed and stirred from the beginning, | : | 478 MODERN COOKERY. * ([cHAP. XxXI. % Raspberries, 4 Ibs. ; currant-juice, 14 1b.: 20 minntes. Sugar, 3 Ibs.: 10 minutes. RASPBERRY JELLY FOR FLAVOURING CREAMS. Take the stalks from some quite ripe, and freshly-gathered raspberries, stir them over the fire until they render their juice freely, then strain and weigh it ; or press it from them through a cloth, and’then strain it clear; in either case boil it for five minutes after it is weighed, and for each pound stir in a pound and a quarter of good sugar, reduced quite to powder, sifted, and made very hot; boil the preserve quickly for five minutes longer, and skim it clean. ‘The jelly thus made will sufficiently sweeten the creams without any additional sugar. Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs.: 5 minutes. Sugar, made hot, 5 lbs.: 5 minutes. . ' ANOTHER RASPBERRY JELLY. (Very good.) : Bruise the fruit a duttle, and draw the juice from it by four or five minutes gentle simmering; strain and weigh it; boil it quickly for twenty minutes, draw it from the fire, add three quarters of a pound of good sugar for each pound of juice, and when this is dissolved place the pan again on the fire, and boil the preserve fast from twelve to fifteen minutes longer; skim it thoroughly, and keep it well stirred. This jelly is infinitely ‘improved in colour and in firmness, though not perhaps in flavour, by mixing with the raspberry juice one fourth, or even as much as a third, of the juice of ripe- white currants : the pre- serve will then require rather less boiling. When it jellies in falling from the spoon or skimmer, it is done. Nothing of tin or iron should be used in making it, as these metals will convert its fine red colour into a dull purple. Fruit, simmered 5 to 6 minutes, Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 12 to 15 minutes. Or: juice of raspberries, 4 lbs.; juice of white currants, 2 lbs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 43 lbs.: 10 minutes, or less. GREEN CURRANT JAM. For each pound of currants take fourteen ounces of good sugar, in fine powder ; bruise part “Of the fruit with a small portion of the sugar, and put it first into the preserving-pan, that the juice may flow from.jit sufficiently to prevent the remainder from being burned: it should be placed over a very | gentle fire, and stirred constantly until it has yielded moisture sa cs . 4 Tike, r a a —_ CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 479 enough for this. All the fruit and sugar may then be added, and the whole (well mixed and stirred) boiled from ten to fif- teen minutes, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer. Some fruit will require less time, and some rather more. To each pound of currants, stripped from stalks, 14 0zs. of sugar: 10 to 15 minutes, RED CURRANT JELLY. With three parts of fine ripe red currants, freshly gathered, and stripped from the stalks, mix one of white currants; put them into a clean preserving-pan, and stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice flows from them freely; then turn them into a fine hair-sieve, and let them drain well, but without pressure. Pass the juice through a folded muslin or a jelly-bag, weigh it, and then boil it fast for a quarter of an hour; add for each pound, eight ounces of sugar coarsely powdered, stir this to it off the fire until it is dissolved, give the jelly eight minutes more of quick boiling, and pour it out. It will be firm, and of excellent colour and flavour. Be sure to clear off the scum as it rises, both before and after the sugar is put in, or the preserve will not be clear. , Juice of red currants, 3 lbs.; juice of white currants, 1 lb.: 15 minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs.: 8 minutes. Obs.—An excellent jelly may be made with equal parts of the juice of red and of white currants, and of raspberries, with the same proportion of sugar and degree of boiling as in the foregoing receipt. | SUPERLATIVE RED CURRANT JELLY. (Norman Receipt ) Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants of the finest quality, and mix -with them an equal weight of good sugar reduced to powder ; boil these together quickly for exactly eight minutes, keep them stirred all the time, and clear off the scum as it rises; then turn the preserve into a very clean sieve, and put into small jars the jelly which runs through it, and which will ‘be delicious in flavour, and of the brightest colour. It should be carried immediately, when this is practicable, to an extremely cool but not a damp place, and left there until perfectly cold. The currants which remain in the sieve make an excellent jam, particularly if only part of the jelly be taken from them. In Normandy, where the fruit is of richer quality than in a © i . ee ae 4 Bie 14 ng . 480 MODERN COOKERY. ‘[euar. xxi England, this preserve is boiled only one minute, and is both firm and beautifully transparent. Currants, 3 lbs.; sugar, 3 lbs.: 8 minutes. FRENCH CURRANT JELLY. Mix one third of white currants with two of red, and stir them over a gentie fire until they render their juice freely; pour it from them, strain and weigh it; for every four pounds break three of fine sugar into large lumps, just dip them ‘into cold water, and when they are nearly dissolved boil them to a thick syrup; stir this without ceasing until it falls in large thick white masses from the skimmer; then pour in the. currant juice immediately, and when the sugar is again dis- solved, boil the whole quickly for five minutes, clear off the scum perfectly, pour the jelly into jars or warm glasses, and set it in a cool place. Red currants, two thirds; white currants, one third; juice, 4 lbs.; sugar boiled to candy height, 3 lbs.: jelly boiled, 5 minutes. Obs.—A flavouring of raspberries is usually given to currant jelly in France, the preserve being there never served with any kind of joint, as it is with us. DELICIOUS RED CURRANT JAM. This, which is but an indifferent preserve when made in the usual way, will be found a very fine one if the following direc- tions for it be observed; it will be extremely transparent and bright in colour, and will retain perfectly the flavour of the fruit. Take the currants at the height of their season, the finest that can be had, free from dust, but gathered on a dry day ; strip them with great care from the stalks, weigh and put them into a preserving-pan with three pounds of the best ‘sugar reduced to powder, to four pounds of the fruit; stir them gently over a brisk clear fire, and boil them quickly for exactly eight minutes from the first full boil. As the jam is apt to rise over the top of the pan, it is better not to fill it more than two thirds, and if this precaution should not be sufficient to prevent it, it must be lifted from the fire and held away for an instant. To many tastes, a still finer jam than this (which we find suffi- ciently sweet) may be made with an -eqnal weight of fruit and sugar boiled together for seven minutes. There should be. great exactness with respect to the time, as both the flavour and the brilliant colour of the preserve will be injured by longer boiling. : f Se a CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES, 481 Red currants (without stalks), 4 Ibs.; fine sugar, 3 Ibs.: boiled quickly, 8 minutes. Or, equal weight fruit and sugar: 7 minutes. VERY FINE WHITE CURRANT JELLY. The fruit for this jelly should be very white, perfectly free from dust, and picked carefully from the stalks. To every ound add eighteen ounces of double refined sifted sugar, and oil them together quickly for six minutes ; throw in the strained juice of a sound fresh lemon, or of two, should the quantity of preserve be large; boil it two minutes longer; pour it into a delicately clean sieve, and finish it by the directions given for the Norman red currant jelly (page 479). White currants, 6 lbs.; highly refined sugar, 62 lbs.: 6 minutes. Juice of 2 moderate-sized lemons: 2 minutes. WHITE CURRANT JAM, A BEAUTIFUL PRESERVE. Boil together quickly for seven minutes an equal weight of fine white currants, picked with the greatest nicety, and of the best sugar pounded and passed through a sieve. Stir the preserve gently the whole time, and be careful to skim it thoroughly. Just before it is taken from the fire throw in the strained juice of one good lemon to four pounds of the fruit. White currants, 4 lbs.; best sugar, 4 lbs.: 7 minutes. Juice 1 lemon. CURRANT PASTE. Stalk and heat some red currants as for jelly, pour off three parts of the juice, which can be used for that preserve, and press the remainder, with the pulp of the fruit, closely through a hair-sieve reversed; boil it briskly, keeping it stirred the whole time, until it forms a dry. paste; then for each pound (when first weighed) add seven ounces of pounded sugar, and boil the whole from twenty-five to thirty minutes longer, taking care that it shall not burn. This paste is remarkably pleasant and refreshing in cases of fever, and acceptable usually for winter-desserts. ; Red currants boiled from 5 to 7 minutes, pressed with one fourth of their juice through a sieve, boiled from 14 to 2 hours. To each pound add 7 ozs. pounded sugar: 25 to 30 minutes. Obs.—Confectioners. add the pulp, after it is boiled dry, to If K 482 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI. an equal weight of sugar at the candy height: by making trial of the two methods, the reader can decide on the better one. . FINE BLACK CURRANT JELLY. Stir some black currants over the fire until they have yielded their juice; strain, weigh, and boil it for twenty minutes; add to it three pounds and a half of sifted sugar of good quality, made quite hot, and when it is dis- solved boil the jelly for five minutes only, clearing off the scum with care. This, though an excellent preserve, is too sweet for our own taste, and we think one made with less sugar likely to be more acceptable in cases of indisposition generally. Juice of black currants, 4 1bs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 3} lbs.: 5 minutes.’ COMMON BLACK CURRANT JELLY. ° Boil from three to six pounds of the juice rapidly for twenty minutes, stirring it well; then mix with it off the fire, half a pound of sugar for each pound of juice, and continue the boil- ing for ten minutes. ot Juice of black currants, 3 to 6 Ibs.: 20 minutes. To each _pound juice 3 lb. good sugar: 10 minutes. Obs.—This jelly may be made with Lisbon sugar, but will then require rather more boiling. BLACK CURRANT JAM. To six pounds of the fruit, stripped carefully from the stalks, add four pounds and a half of sugar. Let them heat gently, but as soon as the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly for fifteen minutes. A more common kind of jam may be made by boiling the fruit by itself from ten to fifteen minutes, and for ten minutes after half its weight of sugar has been added to it. Black currants, 6 lbs.; sugar, 44 lbs.: 15 minutes. Or: fruit, 6 Ibs.: 10 to 15 minutes. Sugar, 3 Ibs.: 10 minutes. Obs.—There are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and so useful in illness as those of black currants, and it is therefore advisable always to have a store of them, and to have them well and carefully made. NURSERY PRESERVE. _ Take the stones from a couple of pounds of Kentish cherrics, and boil them twenty minutes; then add to them a pound and a half of raspberries, and an equal quantity of red and of — CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES, 483, white currants, all weighed after they have been cleared from - their stems. Boil these together briskly for twenty minutes; mix with them three pounds and a quarter of common sugar, and give the preserve fifteen minutes more of quick boiling. A pound and a half of gooseberries may be substituted for the cherries ; but they will not require any stewing before they are added to the other fruits. The jam must be well stirred from © the beginning, or it will burn to the pan. Kentish cherries, 2 Ibs.: 20 minutes. Raspberries, red cur- rants, and white currants, of each 13 lb.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 34 lbs.: 15 minutes. ee ANOTHER GOOD COMMON PRESERVE. Boil together, in equal or in unequal portions (for this is immaterial), any kinds of early fruit, until they can be pressed through a sieve; weigh, and then boil the pulp over a brisk fire for half an hour ; add half a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, and again boil the preserve quickly, keeping it well stirred and skimmed, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Cherries, . unless they be morellas, must first be stewed tender apart, as — they will require a much longer time to make them so than any other of the first summer fruits. A GOOD MELANGE, OR MIXED PRESERVE. Boil for three quarters of an hour in two pounds of clear red gooseberry juice, one pound of very ripe greengages, weighed after they have been pared and stoned; then stir to them one pound and a half of good sugar, and boil them quickly again for twenty minutes. If the quantity of preserve be much increased, the time of boiling it must be so likewise: this is always better done before the sugar is added. ; Juice of ripe gooseberries, 2 lbs.; greengages, pared and stoned, 1 lb.: ? hour. Sugar, 1} lb.: 20 minutes. GROSEILLEE. (Another good preserve.) ‘Cut the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of well-fia- voured ripe gooseberries, throw them into a large preserving- pan, boil them for ten minutes, and stir them often with a wooden spoon; then pass both the juice and pulp through a fine sieve, and to every three pounds’ weight of these add half a pint of raspberry-juice, and boil the whole briskly for three quarters of an hour; draw the pan aside, stir in for the above s 484 MODERN COOKERY. [LcHAP. XXI. — portion of fruit, two pounds of sugar, and when it is dissolved renew the boiling for fifteen minutes longer. | Ripe gooseberries, boiled 10 minutes. Pulp and juice of gooseberries, 6 lbs. ; raspberry-juice, 1 pint: ? hour. Sugar, 4 lbs.: 15 minutes. Obs.—When more convenient, a portion of raspberries can be boiled with the gooseberries at first. A FINE PRESERVE OF THE GREEN ORANGE PLUM. (Sometimes called the Stonewood plum.). This fruit, which is very insipid when ripe, makes an excel- lent preserve if used when at its full growth, but while it is still quite hard and green. Take off the stalks, weigh the plums, then gash them well (with a silver knife, if convenient) as they are thrown into the preserving pan, and keep them stirred with- out ceasing, over a moderate fire, until they have yielded suffi- cient juice to prevent their burning; after this, boil them quickly until the stones are entirely detached from the flesh of the fruit. Take them out as they appear on the surface, and when the preserve looks quite smooth and is well reduced, stir in three quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to powder, for each pound of the plums, and boil the whole very quickly for half an hour or more. Put it, when done, into small moulds or pans, and it will be sufficiently firm when cold to turn out well: it will also.be transparent, of a fine green colour, and very agree- able to the taste. Orange plums, when green, 6 lbs. : 40 to 60 minutes. Sugar, 4} lbs, : 30 to 50 minutes. . * Obs.—The blanched kernels of part of the fruit should be ‘added to this preserve a few minutes before it is poured out: if too long boiled in it they will become tough. They should always be wiped very dry after they are blanched. GREENGAGE JAM, OR MARMALADE. When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins, stone, weigh, and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes, keeping them well stirred; then to every four pounds add three of good sugar reduced quite to powder, boil the preserve from five to eight minutes longer, and clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured into the jars. When the flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the stones, weigh and throw the plums whole into the preserving pan, boil them to a pulp, pass them through a sieve, and deduct the weight of the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to the jam, CHAP. XXI. |. PRESERVES. 485 The Orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in this receipt. Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs.: 50 minutes. Sugar, 4} Ibs.: 5 to 8 minutes. PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM. Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes ; stir to them half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it is dissolved continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and skim the preserve carefully during the time. This is an excel- lent marmalade, but it may be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar. The blanched kernels of a portion of the fruit stones will much improve its flavour, but they should be mixed with it only two or three minutes before it is taken from the fire. When these plums are not entirely ripe, it is difficult to free them from the stones and skins: they should then be boiled down and pressed through a sieve, as directed for green- - gages, in the receipt above. Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Su- gar, 3 lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes. TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP. Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks or stones; take their weight of dry sifted sugar, lay them into a deep dish or bow], and strew it over them; let them remain thus for a night, then pour them gently into a preserving pan, with all the sugar, heat them slowly, and let them just simmer for five minutes ; in a couple of days repeat the process, and do so again and again at, an interval of two or three days, until the fruit is tender and very clear; put it then into jars, and keep it in the syrup, or drain and dry the plums very gradually, as directed for other fruit. When they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part from them readily, they must be covered with spring water, placed over a slow fire, and just scalded until it can be stripped from them easily. MUSSEL PLUM CHEESE AND JELLY. Fill large stone jars with the fruit, which should be ripe, dry, and sound; set them into an oven from which the bread has ‘been drawn several hours, and let them remain all night; or, if this cannot conveniently be done, place them in pans of water, and boil them gently until the plums are tender, and have 486 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI. yielded their juice to the utmost. Pour this from them, strain it through a jelly bag, weigh, and then boil it rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Have ready, broken small, three pounds of sugar for four of the juice, stir them together until it is dis- solved, and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes longer, and be careful to remove all the scum. Pour the pre- serve into small moulds or pans, and turn it out when it is wanted for table: it will be very fine, both in colour and in flavour. Juice of plums, 4 Ibs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 mi- nutes. The cheese.—Skin and stone the plums from which the juice has been poured, and after having weighed, boil them an hour and a quarter over a brisk fire, and stir them constantly ; then to three pounds of fruit add one of sugar, beaten to powder ; boil the preserve for another half hour, and press it into shallow pans or moulds. Plums, 3 lbs.: 14 hour. Sugar, 1 lb.: 30 minutes. APRICOT MARMALADE. This may be made either by the receipt for greengage, or — Mogul plum marmalade; or the fruit may first be boiled quite tender, then rubbed through a sieve, and mixed with three quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of apricots: from twenty to thirty minutes will boil it in this case. A richer pre- serve still is produced by taking off the skins, and dividing the plums in halves or quarters, and leaving them for some hours, with their weight of fine sugar strewed over them before they are placed on the fire; they are then heated slowly, and gently simmered for about half an hour. TO DRY APRICOTS. (A quick and easy method.) Wipe gently, split, and stone some fine apricots, which are not over-ripe ; weigh, and arrange them evenly in a deep dish or bowl, and strew in fourteen ounces of sugar, in fine powder, to each pound of fruit; on the following day turn the whole carefully into a preserving-pan, let the apricots heat slowly, and simmer them very softly for six minutes, or for an instant longer, should they not in that time be quite tender. Let them remain in the syrup for a day or two, then drain and spread them singly on dishes to dry. CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 487 _ To each pound apricots, 14 ozs. of sugar; to stand 1 night, to be simmered from 6 to 8 minutes, and left in syrup 2 or 3 days. DRIED APRICOTS. (French Receipt.) Take apricots which have attained their full growth and’ colour, but before they begin to soften ; weigh, and wipe them lightly ; make a small incision across the top of each plum, pass the point of a knife through the stalk end, and gently push out the stones without breaking the fruit; next, put the apricots into a preserving-pan, with plenty of cold water, place it over a moderate fire, and when it begins to boil, should the apricots be quite tender, lift them out and throw them into more cold water, but simmer them, otherwise, until they are so. Take the same weight of sugar that there was of the fruit before it was stoned, and boil it for ten minutes with a quart of water to the four pounds; skim the syrup carefully, throw in the apricots (which should previously be well drained on a soft cloth, or on a.sieve), simmer them for one minute, and set them by in it until the following day, then drain it from them, boil it for ten minutes, and pour it on them.the instant it is taken from the fire; in forty-eight hours repeat the process, and when the syrup has boiled ten minutes, put in the apricots, and simmer them from two to four minutes, or until they look quite clear. They , may be stored in the syrup until wanted for drying, or drained from it, laid separately on slates or dishes, and dried very gra- dually: the blanched kernels may be put inside the fruit, or added to the syrup. Apricots, 4 lbs., scalded until tender; sugar, 4 lbs.; water, 1 quart: 10 minutes. Apricots, in syrup, 1 minute; left 24 hours. Syrup, boiled again, 10 minutes, and poured on fruit : stand 2 days. * Syrup, boiled again, 10 minutes, and apricots 2 to 4 minutes, or until clear. : Obs.—The syrup should be quite thick when the apricots are put in for the last time; but both fruit and sugar vary so much in quality, and in the degree of boiling which they require, that no invariable rule can be given for the latter. The apricot syrup strained very clear, and mixed with twice its measure of pale French brandy, makes an agreeable liqueur, © which is much improved by infusing in it for a few days half an ounce of the fruit-kernels, blanched and bruised, to the quart of liquor. ; We have found that cherries prepared by either of the 488 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI.° receipts which we have given for preserving them with sugar, | if thrown into the apricot syrup when partially dried, just scalded in it, and left for a fortnight, then drained and dried as usual, become a delicious sweetmeat. Mussel, imperatrice, or any other plums, when quite ripe, if simmered in it very gently until they are tender, and left for a few days to imbibe its flavour, then drained and finished as usual, are likewise excellent. « PEACH JAM, OR MARMALADE. The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, - should be finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly sound. Pare, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for three quar- ters of an hour, and do not fail to stir it often during the time; draw it from the fire, and mix with it ten ounces of well-refined sugar, rolled or beaten to powder, for each pound of the peaches; — clear it carefully from scum, and boil it briskly for five minutes ; - throw in the strained juice of one or two good lemons; continue the boiling for three minutes only, and pour out the marma- lade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit, add the blanched kernels of part of the peaches. Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs.; # hour. Sugar, 23 lbs.: 2 minutes. Blanched peach-kernels: 3 minutes. Juice of 2 small lemons: 3 minutes. Obs.—This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing the fruit through a sieve after it has been partially boiled. Nothing can be finer than its flavour, which would be injured by adding the sugar at first; and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet. Nectarines and peaches mixed, make an admirable preserve. TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES. (An easy and excellent Receipt.) The fruit should ‘be fine, freshly gathered, and fully ripe, but still in its perfection. Pare, halve, and weigh it after the stones are removed; lay it into a deep dish, and strew over it an equal weight of highly refined pounded sugar; let it remain until this is nearly dissolved, then lift the fruit gently into a preserving pan, pour the juice and sugar to it, and heat the whole over a very slow fire; let it just simmer for ten minutes, then turn it softly into a bowl, and let it remain a couple of days; repeat the slow heating and simmering at intervals of two or three days, until the fruit is quite clear, when it may be potted in the syrup, or drained from it, and dried upon large ~ CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 489 clean slates or dishes, or upon wire-sieves. The flavour will be _ excellent. ‘The strained juice of a lemon may be added to the syrup, with good effect, towards the end of the process, and an additional ounce or two of sugar allowed for it. DAMSON JAM. (VERY GOOD.) The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe. Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes; then stir in half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved, give the preserve fifteen minutes addi- tional boiling, keeping it stirred, and thoroughly skimmed. Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 15 minutes. Obs.—A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit through a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excel- lent without. DAMSON JELLY. Bake separately in a very slow oven, or boil in a water-bath (see page 467), any number of fine ripe damsons, and one third the quantity of bullaces, or of any other pale plums, as a portion of their juice will, to most tastes, improve, by softening the flavour of the preserve, and will render the colour brighter. Pour off the juice clear from the fruit, strain and weigh it; boil it quickly without sugar for twenty-five minutes, draw it from the fire, stir into it ten ounces of good sugar for each pound of juice, and boil it quickly from six.to ten minutes longer, carefully clearing off all the scum. The jelly must be often stirred before the sugar is added, and constantly after- wards. DAMSON SOLID. (Goop.) Pour the juice from some damsons which have stood for ‘a night in a very cool oven, or been stewed in a jar placed in a pan of water; weigh and put it into a preserving pan with a pound and four ounces of pearmains (or of any other fine boiling apples), pared, cored, and quartered, to each pound of the juice; boil these together, keeping them well stirred, from twenty-five to thirty minutes, then add the sugar, and when it is nearly dissolved, continue the boiling for ten minutes. This, if done with exactness, will give a perfectly smooth and firm preserve, which may be moulded in small shapes, and turned out for table. To each pound clear damson-juice, 1} Ib. pearmains (or other 490 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXI. good apples), pared and cored: 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14 ozs.: 10 minutes. EXCELLENT DAMSON CHEESE. When the fruit has been baked or stewed tender, as directed above, drain off the juice, skin and stone the damsons, pour back to them from a third to half of their juice, weigh, and then boil them over a clear brisk fire until they form a quite dry paste; add six ounces of pounded sugar for each pound of ' the plums; stir them off the fire until this is dissolved, and boil the preserve again without quitting or ceasing to stir it, until it leaves the pan quite dry, and adheres in a mass to the spoon. If it should not stick to the fingers when lightly touched, it will be sufficiently done to keep very long; press it quickly into pans or moulds; lay on it a paper dipped in spirit when it is perfectly cold; tie another fold over it, and store it in a dry place.. ipa Bullace cheese is made in the same manner, and almost any © _ kind of plum will make an agreeable preserve of the sort. To each pound of fruit, pared, stoned, and mixed with the juice, and boiled quite dry, 6 ozs. of pounded sugar: boiled again to a dry paste. | GRAPE JELLY. Strip from their stalks some fine ripe black-cluster grapes, and stir them with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until all have burst, and the juice flows freely from them; strain it off without pressure, and pass it through a jelly-bag, or through a twice folded muslin ; weigh and then boil it rapidly for twenty minutes ; draw it from the fire, stir in it until dissolved, fourteen’ ounces of good sugar, roughly powdered, to each pound of juice, and boil the jelly quickly for fifteen minutes longer, keeping it constantly stirred, and perfectly well skimmed. It will be very clear, and of a beautiful pale rose-colour. Juice of black-cluster grapes: 20 minutes. To each pound of juice, 14 ozs. good sugar: 15 minutes. Obs.—We have proved this jelly only with the kind of grape which we have named, but there is little doubt that fine purple grapes of any sort would answer for it well. ENGLISH GUAVA. i Strip the stalks from a gallon or two of the large kind of bullaces called the shepherd’s bullace ; give part of them a cut, put them into stone jars, and throw into one of them a pound or = | : ; y % 5 CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 491 two of imperatrice plums, if they can be obtained; put the jars into pans of water, and boil them as directed at page 467; then drain off the juice, pass it through a thick strainer or jelly-bag, and weigh it; boil it quickly from fifteen to twenty minutes ; take it from the fire, and stir in it till dissolved three quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of juice; remove the scum with care, and boil the preserve again quickly from eight to- twelve minutes, or longer should it not then jelly firmly on the skimmer. When the fruit is very acid, an equal weight of juicegn sugar may be mixed together in the first instance, and boiled briskly for about twenty minutes. It is impossible to indicate the precise time which the jelly will require, so much depends on the quality of the plums, and on the degree of boiling previously given to them in the water-bath. When properly made it is remarkably transparent and very firm. It should be poured into shallow pans or small moulds, and turned from them before it is served. When the imperatrice plum cannot be procured, any other that will give a pale red colour to the juice will answer. The bullaces alone make an admir- able preserve ; and even the commoner kinds afford an excellent one. Juice of the shepherd’s bullace and imperatrice, or other red plum, 4 lbs.: 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 8 to 12 minutes. Or juice of bullaces and sugar, equal weight: 20 minutes. Obs.—After the juice has been poured from the plums they may be stoned, pared, weighed, and boiled to a paste; then six ounces of sugar added to the pound, and the boiling continued until the preserve is again very dry: asmall portion of the juice should be left with the fruit for this. VERY FINE IMPERATRICE-PLUM MARMALADE. Weigh six pounds of the fruit when it is quite ripe, but before the frost has touched it; give each plum a cut as it is thrown into the preserving pan, and when all are done boil them from thirty-five to forty minutes, taking out the stones as they rise to the surface, when they are quite detached from the flesh of the fruit. Draw back the pan from the fire, stir in two pounds of good sugar beaten to powder, and boil the preserve quickly for fifteen minutes. The imperatrice plum is of itself so sweet that this proportion of sugar makes with it a — very rich preserve. Imperatrice plums (without the stalks) 6 Ibs.: boiled 35 to & 492 MODERN COOKERY. [oHaP. XXI. 40 minutes. Sugar 2 Ibs. (added after the stones are out): 15. minutes. Obs.—Some slight trouble would be avoided by pressing the fruit through a sieve after the first boiling; but we do not think the marmalade would be improved by being freed from the skins of the plums. , . can TO DRY IMPERATRICE PLUMS. (An easy method.) Put them into jars, or wide-necked bottles, with half a pound _ of good sugar, rolled or pounded, to twice the weight of fruit; set them into a very cool oven for four or five hours; or, if - more convenient, place them, with a little hay between them, in a pan: of cold water, and boil them gently for rather more than three hours. Leave them in the syrup for a few days, and finish them as directed for the drying of other fruits. Tie a bladder over the necks of the jars or bottles before they are placed in ‘the pan of water, and fasten two or three folds of paper over the former, or cork the bottles when the fruit is to be baked. The sugar should be put in after the fruit, without — being shaken down; it will then dissolve gradually, and be absorbed by it equally. To each pound of plums, 8 ounces pounded sugar: baked in cool oven 4 or 5 hours, or steamed 3 hours. TO BOTTLE FRUIT FOR WINTER USE. Gather the fruit in the middle of the day in very dry weather; _ strip off the stalks, and have in readiness some perfectly clean and dry wide-necked bottles; turn each of these the instant before it is filled, with the neck downwards, and hold in it two or three lighted matches; drop in the fruit before the vapour escapes, shake it gently down, press in some new corks, dip the necks of the bottles into melted rosin, set them at night into an oven from which the bread has been drawn six or seven hours at least, and let them remain until the morning: if the heat be too great the bottles will. burst. Currants, cherries, damsons, greengages, and various other kinds of plums will remain good for quite twelve months when bottled thus, if stored in a ~ dry place. . To steam the fruit, put the bottles into a copper or other vessel up to their necks in cold water, with a little hay between and under them ; light the fire, let the. water heat slowly, and keep it at the point of gentle simmering until the fruit is suffi- ‘ciently scalded. Some kinds will of course require a much ~ - aia | .. ie CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 493 longer time than others. From: half to three quarters of an hour will be sufficient for gooseberries, currants, and rasp- berries ; but the appearance of all will best denote their being done. When they have sunk almost half the depth of the bottles, and the skins are shrivelled, extinguish the fire, but leave them in the water until it is quite cold; then wipe and store the bottles in a dry place. A bit of moistened bladder tied over the corks is better than the rosin when the fruit. is steamed. b APPLE JELLY. ‘Various kinds of apples may be used successfully to make this jelly, but the nonsuch is by many persons preferred to all others for the purpose. The Ripstone pippin, however, may be used for it with very good effect, either solely, or with a mix- ture of pearmains. It is necessary only that the fruit should be finely flavoured, and that it should boil easily to a mar- malade. Pare, core, quarter, and weigh it quickly that it may not lose its colour, and to each pound pour a pint of cold water, and boil it until it is well broken, without being reduced to a quite thick pulp, as it would then be difficult to render the juice perfectly clear, which it ought to be. Drain this well from the apples, either through a fine sieve or a folded muslin strainer, and pass it afterwards through a jelly-bag, or turn the fruit at once into the last of these, and pour the liquid through a second time if needful. When it appears quite transparent, weigh, and reduce it by quick boiling for twenty minutes; draw it from the fire, add two pounds of sugar, broken very small, for three of the decoction, stir it till it is entirely dissolved, then place the preserving-pan again over a clear fire and boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes, or until it jellies firmly upon the skimmer when poured from it; throw in the strained juice of a small lemon for every two pounds of jelly, a couple of minutes before it is taken from the fire. Apples, 7 lbs.; water, 7 pints: 4 to full hour. Juice, 6lbs.: 20 minutes quick boiling. Sugar, 4 lbs.: 10 to 25 minutes. Juice three lemons. ) EXCEEDINGLY FINE APPLE JELLY. Pare quicklysome highly flavoured juicy apples of any kind, or of various kinds together, for this is immaterial ; slice, without dividing them; but first free them from the stalks and eyes; shake out some of the pips, and put the apples evenly into very clean large stone jars, just dipping an occasional layer into cold water —_— * Eee +. 3 494 MODERN COOKERY. _ [oHap. xx1. as this is done, the better to preserve the colour of the whole. — Set the jars into pans of water, and boil the fruit slowly until it is quite soft, then turn it into a jelly-bag or cloth and let the juice all drop from it. ‘The quantity which it will have yielded — will be small, but it will be clear and rich. Weigh, and boil it for ten minutes, then draw it from the fire, and stir into it, until it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of good sugar tothe pound and quarter (or pint) of juice. Place the preserve again over the fire and stir it without intermission, except to clear off the scum, until it has boiled from eight to ten minutes longer, for otherwise it will jelly on the surface with the scum upon.it, which it will then be difficult to remove, as when touched it will break and fall into the preserve. The strained juice of one small fresh lemon to the pint of jelly should be thrown into it two or three minutes before it is poured out, and the rind of one or two cut very thin may be simmered in the juice before the sugar is added; but the pale, delicate colour of the jelly will be injured by too much of it, and many persons would altogether prefer the pure flavour of the fruit. se Juice of apples, 1 quart, or 2) lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 13 lb.: 8 to 10 minutes. Juice, 2 small lemons; rind of 1 or more ~ at pleasure. i Obs. 1.—The quantity of apples required for it renders this a rather expensive preserve, where they are not abundant ; but it is a remarkably fine jelly, and turns out from the moulds in perfect shape and very firm. It may be served in the second course, or for dessert. It issometimes made without’paring the _ apples, or dipping them into the water, and the colour is then a deep red: we have occasionally had a pint of water added to about a gallon and a half of apples, but the jelly was not then quite so fine in flavour. ook | Obs. 2.—The best time for making this apple. jelly is from the end of November to Christmas. . i. F : Obs. 3.—Quince jelly would, without doubt, be very fine ; made by this receipt; but as the juice of that fruit is richer than that of the apple, a little water might be-added. Alter- _ nate layers of apples and quinces would also answer well, we : : QUINCE JELLY. __ - . ne Pare, quarter, core, and aweigh some ripe but quite sound =~ . quinces, as quickly as possible, and throw them as they are done ‘into part of the water in which they are to be boiled, as directed at page 427; allow one pint of this to each ‘pound of the fruit, and simmer it gently until it is a little broken, but not solong ~~ f 2A : x, Me ‘ : Fae aa 3: A, vr PhS te me an a ‘ CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 495 - as to redden the juice, which ought to’be very pale. Turn the whole into a jelly-bag, or strain the liquid through a fine cloth, and let it drain very closely from it, but without the slightest pressure. Weigh the juice, put it into a delicately clean pre- serving pan, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes; take it from the fire and stir into it, until # is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of sugar for each pound of juice, or fourteen ounces if the fruit should be very acid, which it will be in the earlier part of the season ; keep it constantly stirred and thoroughly cleared from scum, from ten to twenty minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer ; then pour it directly into glasses or moulds. If properly made, it will be suffieigntly firm to turn out of the latter, and it will be beautifully transparent, and rich in flavour. It may be made with an equal weight of juice and sugar mixed together in the first instance, and boiled from twenty to thirty minutes. It is difficult to state the time precisely, because from different causes it will vary very much. It should be reduced rapidly to the proper point, as long boiling injures the colour: this.is always more perfectly preserved by boiling the juice without the sugar first. To each pound pared and cored quinces, 1 pint water: 2 to 14 hour. Juice, boiled 20 minutes. To each pound, 12 ozs. sugar: 10 to 20 minutes. Or, juice and sugar equal weight: 20 to 30 minutes. QUINCE MARMALADE. When to economize the fruit is not an object, pare, core, and quarter some of the inferior quinces, and boil them in as much water as will nearly cover them,‘ until they begin to break ; strain the juice from them, and for the marmalade put half a pint of it to-each pound of fresh quinces: in preparing these, be careful to cut out the hard stony parts round the’eores. Simmer them gently until they are perfectly tender, then press them, with the juice, through a coarse sieve; put them intoa perfectly clean pan, and boil them till they form almost a dry paste ; add for each pound of quinces and the half pint of juice, three quarters of a pound of sugar, in fine powder, and boil the — marmalade for half an hour, stirring it gently without ceasing: ” it will be very firm and bright in colour. If made shortly © after the fruit is gathered, a little additional sugar will be ~ - required; and when a richer and less dry marmalade is better liked, it must be boiled a shorter time, and an .equal weight of fruit and sugar must be*used. ‘ si | ~ Quinces, pared and cored, 4 lbs. ; prepared juice, 1 quart: 2 ae Seay ¥ | . 496 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. Xxt.' to 3 hours. Boiled fast to dry, 20 to 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 30 minutes. ‘ Richer marmalade: quinces, 4 lbs.; juice, 1 quart; sugar, 4 lbs. . - QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE. Boil together, from three quarters of an hour to an hour, two pounds of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured apples, in an equal weight of prepared quince-juice (see page 427), then take them from the fire, and mix with them a pound and a half of sugar, in fine powder ; when this is a little dissolved, set the pan again over a brisk fire, and boil the preserve for twenty minutes longer, keeping it stirred all the time. Prepared quince-juice, 2 Ibs.; apples, 2 Ibs.: 3 to 1 hour. Sugar, 1} lb,: 20 minutes. QUINCE PASTE. If the full flavour of the quinces be desired, stew them suffi- ciently tender to press through a sieve, in the prepared juice of page 427; otherwise, in just water enough to about three parts cover them; when they are soft quite through, lift them out, let them cool, and then pass them through a sieve; reduce them to a dry paste, over a very clear fire, and stir them constantly ; then weigh the fruit, and mix it with an equal proportion of pounded sugar, or sugar boiled to candy height (we find the effect nearly the same, whichever method be pursued), and stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to quit the pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball; press it into shallow pans or dishes; cut it, as soon as cold, into small squares, and, should they seem to require it, dry them with a very gentle degree of heat, and when they are again cold store them in tin cases with well-dried foolscap paper between them : the paste may be moulded, when more convenient, and kept until it is wanted for table, in a very dry place. In France, where the fruit is admirably confected, the pate des coigns, or quince paste, is somewhat less boiled than we have directed, and dried afterwards in the sun, or in an extremely gentle oven, in square rims of tin, about an inch and a half deep, placed upon clean slates. he JELLY OF SIBERIAN GRABS. This fruit makes a jelly of beautiful colour, and of pleasant flavour also; it may be stored in small moulds of ornamental shape, and turned out for a dessert dish. Take off the stalks, CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 497 ‘weigh, and wash the crabs; then, to each pound and a: half, add a pint of water, and boil them gently until they are broken, but do not allow them to fall toa pulp. Pour the whole into a jelly-bag, and when the juice is quite transparent, weigh it, put it into a clean preserving-pan, boil it quickly for ten minutes, take it from the fire, and stir in it, until dissolved, ten ounces of fine sugar, roughly powdered, to each pound of the juice ; boil the jelly from twelve to fifteen minutes, skim it very clean, and pour it into the mould. Should the quantity be large, a few additional minutes boiling must be given to the juice before the sugar is added. To each 13 lb. of crabs; water, 1 pint: 12 to 18 minutes. Juice to be fast boiled, 10 minutes; sugar, to each pound, 10 ozs.:. 12 to 15 minutes. TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES. Take the finest barberries, without stones, that can be pro- cured, tie them together in bunches of four or five sprigs, and for each half pound of the fruit (which is extremely light), boil one pound of very good sugar in a pint of water for twenty minutes, and clear it well from scum ; throw in the fruit, let it heat gently, and then boil from five to seven minutes, when it will be perfectly transparent. So long as any snapping noise is heard, the fruit is not all done; it should be pressed equally down into the syrup until the whole of the berries have burst ; it should then be turned into jars, which must be covered with skin, or with two or three folds of thick paper, as soon as the preserve is perfectly cold. The barberries thus prepared make a beautiful garnish for sweet dishes, or for custard- puddings. » . Barberries, tied in bunches, 13 lb.; sugar, 3 lbs.; water, 14 pint: 20 minutes. Barberries boiled in syrup: 5 to 7 minutes. BARBERRY JELLY. To each pound of barberries, stripped from the stalks, put a pint and a half of cold water, and boil them for fifteen minutes ; bruise them with the back of a wooden spoon, pour them into a hair-sieve or muslin strainer, and pass the juice afterwards through a jelly-bag. When it appears perfectly clear, weigh, and then boil it fast for ten minutes; take it from the fire, and stir into it as many pounds of sugar in fine powder as there were pounds of juice ; when this is dissolved boil the jelly again K K oe 498 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XxI. for ten minutes, skim it carefully, and pour it into jars or glasses: if into the latter warm them previously, or the boiling jelly may cause them to break. Barberries, 3 lbs.; water 43 pints: 15 minutes.. Juice alone, 10 minutes. To each pound of juice 1 lb. of sugar: 10 minutes. BARBERRY JAM. (A good Receipt.) The barberries for this preserve should be quite ripe, though they should not be allowed to hang until they begin to decay. Strip them from the stalks, throw aside such as are spotted, and for each pound of the fruit allow eighteen ounces of well-refined sugar; boil this, with one pint of water to every four pounds, until it becomes white, and falls in thick masses from the spoon; then throw in the fruit, and keep it stirred over a brisk fire for six minutes only; take off the scum, and pour it into jars or glasses. Sugar, 43 Ibs. ; water, 14 pint: boiled to candy height. Bar- berries, 4 lbs.: 6 minutes. BARBERRY JAM. (Second Receipt.) The preceding is an excellent receipt, but the preserve will be very good if eighteen ounces of pounded sugar be mixed and boiled with the fruit for ten minutes; and this is done at a small expense of time and trouble. Sugar pounded, 23 lbs.; fruit, 2 lbs.: boiled 10 minutes. VERY COMMON BARBERRY JAM. Weigh the fruit after it has been stripped from the stalks, and boil it for ten minutes over a moderate fire, keeping it stirréd all the time; then add to it an equal weight of good’ Lisbon sugar, and boil the preserve for five minutes. Barberries, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes. Lisbon sugar, 3 lbs.: 5 minutes. Obs.—The small barberry, without stones, must be used for the foregoing receipts, but for those which follow either sort will answer. SUPERIOR BARBERRY JELLY, AND MARMALADE. Strip the fruit from the stems, wash it in spring-water, drain, bruise it slightly, and put it into a clean stone jar, with no more liquid than the drops which hang about it. Place the jar in a pan of water, and steam the fruit until it is quite tender: this will be in from thirty minutes to an hour. Pour off the clear CHAP. XXI. | PRESERVES. 499 juice, strain, weigh, and boil it fast from five to seven minutes, with eighteen ounces of sugar to every pound. For the mar- malade, press the barberries through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and boil them quickly for the same time, and with the same proportion of sugar as the jelly. Barberries boiled in water-bath until tender; to each pound of juice, 1 lb. 2 ozs. sugar: 5 minutes. Pulp of fruit, to each pound, 18 ozs. sugar: 5 minutes. Obs.—We have always had these preserves made with very ripe fruit, and have found them extremely good; but more sugar thay be needed to sweeten them sufficiently when the barberries have hung less time upon the trees. ORANGE MARMALADE. Rasp very slightly on a fine and delicately clean grater the rinds of some sound Seville oranges; cut them in quarters, and separate the flesh from the rinds; then with the small end of a tea, or eggspoon, clear it entirely from the pips, and from the loose inner skin and film. Put the rinds into a large quantity of cold water, and change it when they have boiled about twenty minutes. As soon as they are perfectly tender lift them out, and drain them on a sieve; slice them thin, and add eight ounces of them to each pound of the pulp and juice, with a pound and a half of highly-refined sugar in fine powder ; boil the marmalade quickly for half an hour, skim it well, and turn it into the jars. The preserve thus made will not have a very powerful flavour of the orange rind. When more of this is liked, either leave a portion of the fruit unrasped, or mix with the preserve some of the zest which has been grated off, allowing for it its weight of sugar. Or proceed thus: allow to a dozen Seville oranges two fine juicy lemons, and take the weight of the whole in sifted sugar, of excellent quality. With a sharp knife cut through the rinds just deep enough to allow them to be stripped off in quarters with the end of a spoon, and throw them for a night into plenty of cold spring-water; on the following morning boil them suffi- ciently tender to allow the head of a pin to pierce them easily ; then drain them well, let them cool, and scrape out the white part of the rind, and cut the remainder into thin chips. In the mean time have the pulp of the fruit quite cleared from the pips and film; put it with the sugar and chips into a preserving pan, heat it slowly, then boil it from twenty to thirty minutes: it will be very rich, good marma- lade. Thesugar, first broken into large lumps, is sometimes oY 500 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XXI. made into a very thick syrup, with so much water only as will just dissolve it; the pulp and juice are in that case boiled — in it quickly for ten minutes before the chips are added; and. a part of these are pounded and stirred into the preserve with the others. March is the proper month for making this pre-- serve, the Seville orange being then in perfection. For lemon marmalade proceed exactly in the same manner as for this. — The whole of the rinds of either fruit are pounded to a paste, — and then boiled with the pulp, to make what is called trans- parent marmalade. Rinds of Seville oranges, lightly rasped and boiled tender, 2 lbs.; pulp and juice, 4 Ibs.; sugar, 6 lbs.: 4 hour. Or, weight of oranges, first taken in sugar, and added, with all the rinds, to the pulp after the whole has been properly prepared. GENUINE SCOTCH MARMALADE. “ Take some bitter oranges, and double their weight of sugar; cut the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off, and if the marmalade be not wanted very thick, take off some of the spongy white skin inside the rind. Cut the chips as thin as possible, and about half an inch long, and divide the pulp into small bits, removing carefully the seeds, which may be steeped in part of the water that is to make the marmalade, — and which must be in the proportion of a quart to a pound of fruit. Put the chips and pulp into a deep earthen dish, and pour the water boiling over them; let them remain for twelve or fourteen hours, and then turn the whole into the preserving pan, and boil it until the chips are perfectly tender. When they are so, add by degrees the sugar (which should be pre- , viously pounded), and boil the marmalade until it jellies. The water.in which the seeds have been steeped, and which must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of the preserve, should be poured into a hair-sieve, and the seeds well worked in it with the back of a spoon; a strong clear jelly will be obtained by this means, which must be washed off them by pouring their own liquor through the sieve in small portions over them. This must be added to the fruit when it is first set on the fire.” Oranges, 3 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; sugar, 6 lbs, Obs.—This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is guaranteed as an excellent one by the Scottish lady from whom it was procured. CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 501 ORANGE CONSERVE FOR PUDDINGS. Wash and then soak in plenty of spring water for three days, changing it night and morning, half a dozen Seville oranges ; then boil them until they are sufficiently tender for the head of a pin to pierce them easily; drain and weigh them, and for each pound take, and reduce to fine powder, two pounds of good sugar. Cut the oranges asunder, and remove the pips and the coarse loose skin of the cores; then beat them, with the sugar, in a large mortar, and pick out, as this is done, any bits of fibre or coarse inner skin which cannot be reduced to a paste. When the whole forms a smooth conserve, put it into small jars for use, as it requires no boiling after the fruit and sugar are mixed: if stored in a dry place it will remain good for two years. Each orange should be tied in a thin small cloth or a bit of muslin when it is boiled, and the water should be changed once (or even twice when the fine aromatic bitter of the rind is altogether objected to), or the fruit may be lifted from the water and thrown immediately into another pan containing more which is ready bciling. Two tablespoonsful of this con- serve, with the yolks of five or six eggs, a couple of ounces of sugar, and as much clarified butter smoothly mixed and well beaten together, will make good cheesecakes, or an excellent but not large pudding: the same proportion will be found an agreeable addition to a plum pudding also. Seville oranges, boiled tender, 2 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.; beaten together, not boiled. LEMON CONSERVE, This is made like the conserve which precedes it, but does not require quite so large a proportion of sugar. Choose for it some fine fresh lemons, wipe, and weigh them; and for each pound allow a pound and a half of sugar. Throw them into boiling water, and when they are quite soft, which will be in something more or less than an hour, lift them out, drain them a little, cut them in halves, and take out the pips; then pound them to a very smooth paste, removing, as this is done, the coarse skin and fibres; mix the sugar perfectly with them in the mortar, and store the conserve in small jars. Lemons, 2 lbs.; boiled 2 to1 hour or more. Sugar, 3 lbs. Obs.—The fruit requires no previous soaking before it is boiled for this preserve ; nor is it necessary to change the water, nor to tie the lemons in muslin. 502 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap. XXII.» CHAPTER XXIL PICKLES, Mango. OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. Tue first requisite in making pickles is to have unadulterated vinegar, for all the expense and trouble bestowed upon them is often entirely lost in consequence of ingredients being mixed with this which soften, and sometimes even partially decompose, the substances immersed in it. That which is home-made is generally found for all purposes to answer best, and it may be prepared of almost any degree of strength by increasing the ordinary proportion of fruit and sugar, or whatever else may be used for it. The refuse of raisin-wine, and green gooseberries, may both be converted into excellent vinegar; but unless the pickles be quite covered with their liquor, and well protected _from the air, and from'the influence of damp, which is more than anything destructive of them, the purity of the vinegar will not preserve them eatable. We can confidently recommend to the reader the rather limited number of receipts which follow, and which might easily be multiplied did the size of our volume permit. Pickling is so easy a process, however, that when in any degree properly acquired, it may be extended to almost every kind of fruit and vegetable successfully. A few of the .choicer kinds will nevertheless be found generally more accept- ‘able than a greater variety of inferior preparations. Mushrooms, gherkins, walnuts, lemons, eschalots, and peaches, for all of which we have given minute directions, will furnish as much CHAP. XXII. | PICKLES. 503 choice as is commonly required. Very excellent Indian mangoes too may be purchased at the Italian warehouses, and to many tastes will be more acceptable than any English pickle. We have had them very good from Mr. Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall, whose house we have already had occasion to name. TO PICKLE CHERRIES. Leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine, sound Kent- ish or Flemish cherries, which are not over ripe; put them into a jar, cover them with cold vinegar, and let them stand for three weeks ; pour off two thirds of the liquor and replace it with fresh vinegar ; then, after having drained it from the fruit, boil the whole with an ounce of coriander seed, a small blade of mace, a few grains of cayenne, or a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and four bruised cochineals to every quart, all tied loosely in a fold of muslin. Let the pickle become quite cold before. it is added to the cherries: in a month they will be fit for use. The vinegar which is poured from the fruit makes a good syrup of itself, when boiled with a pound of sugar to the pint, but it is improved by having some fresh raspberries, cherries, or currants previously infused in it for three or four days, TO PICKLE GHERKINS. Let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day, before the frost has touched them; take off the blossoms, put them into a stone jar, and pour over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them well. The following day take them out, wipe them singly, lay them into a clean stone jar, with a dozen bay leaves over them, and pour upon them the following pickle, when it is boiling fast : as much vinegar as will more than cover the gherkins by an inch or two, with an ounce and a quarter of salt, a quarter- ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and a half of ginger sliced, or slightly bruised, and two small blades of mace to every quart; put a plate over the jar, and leave it for two days, then: drain off the vinegar, and heat it afresh ; when it boils, throw in the gherkins, and keep them just on the point of simmering for two or three minutes; pour the whole back into the jar, put the plate again upon it, and let it remain until the pickle is quite cold, when a skin, or two separate folds of thick brown paper, must be tied closely over it. ‘The gherkins thus pickled are | very crisp, and excellent in flavour, and the colour is sufficiently good to satisfy the prudent. housekeeper, to whom the brilliant and poisonous green produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass skillet (a process constantly recommended in books of cookery) 504 MODERN COOKERY. -[omap. xxi. is anything but attractive. To satisfy ourselves of the effect produced by the action of the acid on the metal, we had a few gherkins thrown into some vinegar which was boiling in a brass pan, and nothing could be more beautiful than the colour which they almost immediately exhibited. We fear this dangerous method is too often resorted to in preparing pickles for sale. Brine to pour on gherkins :—6 ozs. salt to each quart water: 24 hours. Pickle:—to each quart vinegar, salt, 14 0z.; black peppercorns, } 0z.; ginger, sliced or bruised, 14 oz.; mace, 2 small blades; bay leaves; 24 to 100 gherkins, more when the fla- vour is liked: 2 days. Gherkins simmered in vinegar, 2 to 3 minutes. Obs.—The quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins will be shown by that cf the brine: so much depends upon their size, that it is impossible to direct the measure exactly. A. larger proportion of spice can be added at pleasure. TO PICKLE GHERKINS. (A French Receipt.) Brush or wipe the gherkins very clean, throw them into plenty of fast-boiling water, and give them a single boil, take them out quickly, and throw them immediately into a large quantity of very cold water; change it once, and when the gherkins themselves are quite cold, drain them well, spread them on sieves or dishes, and dry them in the air. When this is done, put them into stone jars, and pour on them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well ; heat it anew, and pour it on them again the following day; and on the next throw them into it for a minute so soon as it boils, with plent of tarragon in branches, a few very small silver onions, and salt and whole pepper in the same proportions as in the receipt above. It should be observed that the French vinegar, from its superior excellence, will have a very different effect, in many preparations, to that which is made up for sale generally in England; but unless it be at Mr. Beaufoy’s, Lambeth, we know not where it can be procured genuine in this country. TO PICKLE PEACHES, AND PEACH MANGOES. Take, at their full growth, just before they begin to ripen, six large or eight moderate-sized peaches; wipe the down from thet and put them into brine that will float an egg. In three days let them be taken out, and drained on a sieve reversed for several hours. Boil in a quart of vinegar for ten minutes two ounces of whole white pepper, two of ginger ‘ CHAP. XXII. | PICKLES. 505 slightly bruised, a teaspoonful of salt, two blades of mace, half a pound of mustard-sced, and a half-teaspoonful of ca- yenne tied in a bit of muslin. Lay the peaches into a jar, and os the boiling pickle on them : in two months they will be fit or use. ” Peaches, 6 or 8: in brine 3 days. Vinegar, 1 quart; whole white pepper, 2 ozs.; bruised ginger, 2 ozs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 2 blades ; mustard-seed, 1 1b.: 10 minutes. Obs.—The peaches may be converted into excellent man- goes by cutting out from the stalk-end of each, around of sufficient size to allow the stone to be extracted: this should be done after they are taken from the brine. They may be filled with very fresh mustard-seed, previously washed in a little vinegar; to this a small portion of garlic, or bruised eschalots, cayenne, horse-radish, chilies (the most appropriate of any), or spice of any kind may be added, to the taste. The part cut out must be replaced, and secured with a packthread crossed over the fruit. SWEET PICKLE OF MELON. (To serve with Roast Meat.) (Good.) Take, within three or four days of their being fully ripe, one or two well-flavoured melons; just pare off the outer rind, clear them from the seeds, and cut them into slices of about half an inch thick; lay them into good vinegar, and let them re- main in it for ten days; then cover them with cold fresh vine- gar, and simmer them very gently until they are tender. Lift them on to a sieve reversed, to drain, and when they are quite cold stick a couple of cloves into each slice, lay them into a jar (a glass one, if at hand) and cover them well with cold syrup, made with ten ounces of sugar to the pint of water, boiled quickly together for twenty minutes. In about a week take them from the syrup, let it drain from them a little, then put them into the jars in which they are to be stored, and cover them again thoroughly with good vinegar, which has been boiled for an instant, and left to become quite cold be- fore it is added to them. This pickle is intended to be served more particularly with roast mutton, hare, and venison, instead of currant jelly, but it is very good with stewed meat also. Small blades of cinna- mon, and a larger proportion of cloves are sometimes stuck into the melon, but their flavour should not ‘prevail too strongly. We have found the receipt answer extremely well e ‘ 506 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXII. as we have given it, when tried with small green melons, cut within four days of being fit for table. Melons not quite ripe, pared from hard rind and sliced, 1 or 2: in vinegar 10 days. Simmered in it until tender. In syrup 6 to 7 days. In fresh vinegar toremain. Ready to serve in a month. TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS. Select for this purpose, if they can be procured, the smallest buttons of the wild or meadow mushrooms, in preference to those which are artificially raised, and let them be as freshly gathered as possible. Cut the stems off quite close, and clean them with a bit of new flannel slightly moistened, and dipped in fine salt; throw them as they are done into plenty of spring-water, mixed with a large spoonful of salt, but drain them from it quickly afterwards, and lay them into a soft cloth to dry, or the moisture which hangs about them will too much weaken the pickle. For each quart of the mushrooms thus prepared, take nearly a quart of the palest white wine vinegar (this is far superior to the distilled vinegar generally used for the purpose, and the variation in the colour of the mushrooms will be very slight), and add to it a heaped tea- spoonful of salt, half. an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of ginger, sliced or slightly bruised, about the fourth of a saltspoonful of cayenne, tied in a small bit of muslin, and two large blades of mace; to these may be added half a small nutmeg, sliced; but too much spice will entirely overpower the fine natural flavour of the mushrooms. - When the pickle boils, throw them in, and boil them in it over a clear fire mo- derately fast from six to nine minutes, or somewhat longer, should they not be very small. When they are much dispro- portioned in size, the larger ones should have two minutes boil before the others are thrown into the vinegar. As soon — as they are tolerably tender, put them at once into small stone jars, or into warm wide-necked bottles, and divide the spice equally amongst them. The following day, or as soon as - they are perfectly cold, secure them from the air with large - corks, or tie skins and paper over them. They should be stored in a dry place, and guarded from severe frost. When the colour of the mushrooms 1s more considered than the ex- cellence of the pickle, the distilled vinegar can be used for it.. The reader may rely upon this receipt as a really good one; we have had it many times proved, and it is altogether our own. ¥ ; * CHAP. XXII. ] PICKLES. 507 Mushroom buttons (without the stems), 2 quarts; palest white wine vinegar, short 3 gallon ; salt, /arge dessertspoonful, or 14 oz.; white peppercorns, 1 0oz.; whole ginger, 2 ozs.5 cayenne, small 3 saltspoonful ; 1 small nutmeg. MUSHROOMS IN BRINE. For Winter use. (Very good.) We have had small mushroom-buttons excellently preserved through the winter prepared as follows, and we therefore give the exact proportions which we had used for them, though the same quantity of brine would possibly allow of rather more mushrooms in it. Prepare them exactly as for the preceding pickle, and measure them after the stems are taken off. For each quart, boil together for five minutes two quarts of water, with half a pound of common white salt, a small dessertspoonful of white peppercorns, a couple of blades of mace, and a race of ginger; take off the scum thoroughly, and throw in the mush- rooms; boil them gently for about five minutes, then put them into well-warmed, wide-necked bottles, and let them become perfectly cold; pour a little good salad-oil on the top, cork them with new corks, and tie bladder over, or cover them with two separate bladders. When wanted for use, soak the mushrooms in warm water until the brine is sufficiently extracted. Mushrooms, 1 quart; water, } gallon; salt, 4 1b.; peppercorns, 1small dessertspoonful; mace, 2 blades; ginger, 1 race: 5 minutes. Mushrooms, in brine: 5 minutes. TO PICKLE WALNUTS. The walnuts for this pickle must be gathered while a pin can pierce them easily, for when once the shell can be felt, they have ceased to be in a proper state for it. Make sufficient brine to cover them well, with six ounces of salt to the quart of water; take off the scum, which will rise to the surface as the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, and stir them night and morning ; change the brine every three days, and if they are wanted for immediate eating, leave them in it for twelve days; otherwise, drain them from it in nme, spread them on dishes, and let them remain exposed to the air until they become black: this will be.in twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them with something more than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred, a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of black pepper, three - of bruised ginger, a drachm of mace, and from a quarter to half an ounce of cloves (of which some may be stuck into three or four small onions), and four ounces of mustard-seed. Boil the a 508 MODERN COOKERY. — [CHAP. XXII . whole of these together for about five minutes; have the. walnuts ready in a stone jar, or jars, and pour it on them as it is taken from the fire. When the pickle is quite cold, cover the ~ jar securely, and store it in a dry place. Keep the walnuts ee well covered with vinegar, and boil that which is added to them. _ Walnuts, 100; in brine made with 12 ozs. salt to 2 quarts water, and changed twice or more, 9 or 12 days. Vinegar, full 3 gallon; salt, 1 teaspoonful; whole black pepper, 2 ozs.; ginger, 3 ozs.; mace, 1 drachm; cloves, } to40z.; smallonions, 4to6; mustard-seed, 4 ozs.: 5 minutes. TO PICKLE BEET-ROOT. Boil the beet-root tender by the directions of page 329, and when it is quite cold, pare and slice it; put it into a jar, and cover it with vinegar previously boiled and allowed to become again perfectly cold: it will soon be ready for use. It is excellent when merely covered with Chili vinegar. A few small shalots may be boiled in the pickle for it when their flavour is liked. To each quart vinegar, salt, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne tied in muslin, } saltspoonful, or white peppercorns, } to whole oz. PICKLED ESCHALOTS. For a quart of ready-peeled eschalots, add to the same quan- tity of the best pale white wine vinegar, a dessertspoonful of salt, and an ounce of whole white pepper; bring these quickly to a boil, take off the scum, throw in the eschalots, simmer them for two minutes only, turn them into a clean stone jar, and when they are quite cold, tie a skin, or two folds of thick. paper over it. Eschalots, 1 quart; vinegar, 1 quart; salt, 1 dessertspoonful; whole white pepper, 1 oz. Obs.—The sooner the eschalots are pickled after they are ripe and dry, the better they will be. PICKLED ONIONS. Take the smallest onions that can be procured,* just after they are harvested, for they are never in so good a state for the pur- pose as then; proceed, after having peeled them, exactly as for the eschalots, and when they begin to look clear, which will be in three or four minutes, put them into jars, and pour the ® The Reading onion is the proper kind for pickling. CHAP. XXII | PICKLES. 509 pickle on them. The vinegar should be very pale, and their colour will then be exceedingly well preserved. Any favourite Spices can be added to it. TO PICKLE LEMONS, AND LimES. (Lxcellent.) Wipe eight fine sound lemons very clean, and make, at equal distances, four deep incisions in each, from the stalk to the blossom end, but without dividing the fruit; stuff them with as much salt as they will contain, lay them into a deep dish, and place them in a sunny window, or in some warm place for a week or ten days, keeping them often turned and basted with their own liquor; then rub them with some good pale turmeric, and put them with their juice, into a stone jar with a small head of garlic, divided into cloves and peeled, and a dozen small onions stuck with twice as many cloves. Boil in two quarts of white wine vinegar, half a pound of ginger slightly bruised, two ounces of whole black pepper, and half a pound of mustard- seed; take them from the fire and pour them directly on the lemons; cover the jar with a plate, and let them remain until the following day, then add to the pickle half a dozen capsicums (or a few chilies, if more convenient), and tie a skin and a fold of thick paper over the jar. Large lemons stuffed with salt, 8: @to 10 days. Turmeric, 1 to 2 ozs.; ginger, 1 lb.; mustard-seed, 4 lb.; capsicums, 6 ozs. Obs.—The turmeric and garlic may, we think, be omitted from this pickle with advantage. It will remain good for seven years if the lemons be kept well covered with vinegar: that which is added to them should be boiled and then left till cold before it is poured into the jar. The lemons will not be fit for tabie in less than twelve months; but if wanted for more im- mediate use, set them for one night into a cool oven after the bread is drawn; they may then be eaten almost directly. Limes must have but slight incisions made in the rinds; and they will be sufficiently softened in four or five days. Two ounces of salt only will be required for half a dozen; and all which remains unmelted must, with their juice, be put into the jar with them before the vinegar is poured on: this should be mixed with spice and mustard-seed, and be boiling when it is added to the limes. . TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS. These should be gathered quite young, and a portion of the buds, when very small, should be mixed with them. Prepare a pickle by dissolving an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of | 510 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP, XXII. pale vinegar, and throw in the berries as they become fit, from day to day. ‘They are used instead of capers for sauce, and by some persons are preferred to them. When purchased for pickling, put them at once into a jar, and cover them well with the vinegar. TO PICKLE BARBERRIES AND SIBERIAN CRABS. When wanted for garnishing only, take the fruit before it is very ripe, cut half the length of their stalks from the crabs, and free the barberries from the leaves, and from any discoloured berries that may be amongst them. Put thém into stone jars, and cover them well with brine, which has been boiled and left to become perfectly cold. Look at them occasionally during the winter, and should any scum or mould have gathered on the sur- face, clear it well off, drain the brine closely from the fruit, and fill the jars with some that is freshly made. Six ounces of salt, and a morsel of alum half the size of a bean to the quart of water should be boiled together for ten minutes and well skimmed, both for the first brine, and for any that may be re- quired afterwards. To pickle these fruits in vinegar, add the alum to a sufficient quantity to cover them, and boil it with a few white pepper- corns, which must be strained out before it is poured into the jars : it must be quite cold when added to the barberries or crabs. ‘These last should not be ripe when they are used, or they will burst in the pickle; they should have attained their growth and full colour, but be still hard. TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE. Strip off the outer leaves, wipe, and slice a fine sound cab- bage or two extremely thin, sprinkle plenty of salt over them, and let them drain in a sieve, or on a strainer for twelve hours or more; shake or press the moisture from them; put them into clean stone jars, and cover them well with vinegar, in which an ounce of black pepper to the quart has been boiled. Some per- sons merely cover the vegetable with strong, unboiled vinegar. CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. — 611 CHAPTER XXIIL CAKES. I Modern Cake Mould. GENERAL REMARKS ON CAKES, Tue ingredients for cakes, as well as for puddings, should all be fresh and good, as well as free from damp; the lightness of many kinds depends entirely on that given to the eggs by whisking, and by the manner in which the whole is mixed. A small portion of carbonate of soda, which will not be in the slightest degree — pagte-board mould for perceptible to the taste after the cake is large buns. baked, if thrown in just before the mixture is put into the oven, will ensure its rising well. To guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast when it is used for cakes or biscuits, it should be sparingly added, and the sponge should be left twice the usual time to rise. This method will be found to answer equally with bread. For example: should a couple of spoonsful of yeast be ordered in a receipt, when it is bitter, use but one, and let it stand two WT Vine IWR 512. MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP, XXIII. hours instead of half the time: the fermentation, though slow, will be quite as perfect as if it were more quickly effected, and the cake or loaf thus made will not become dry by any means so soon asif a larger portion of yeast were mixed with it. All light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set them; very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat sufficient to bake them through; and smail sugar-cakes a very slow oven, to prevent their taking a deep colour before they are half done: gingerbread, too, should be gently baked, unless it be of the light thick kind. Meringues, macaroons, and ratafias, will bear a slight degree more of heat than these. For sponge and savoy cakes the French butter their moulds thickly, and shake fine sugar in them until they are equally covered with it: the loose sugar must be turned out before they are used. To ascertain whether a cake be done, thrust a knife into the centre, and should this come out clean, draw it from the oven directly; but should-the paste adhere to it, continue the baking. Several sheets of paper are placed usually under large plum- cakes. TO BLANCH ALMONDS, - Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and heat it slowly; when it is just scalding turn the almonds into a basin, peel, and throw them into cold water as they are done: dry them well in a soft cloth before they are used. If the water be too hot it will turn them yellow. TO POUND ALMONDS. Almonds are more easily pounded, and less liable to become — oily, if dried a little in a very gentle degree of heat after they are blanched; left, for example, in a warm room for two or three days, lightly spread on a large dish or tin. They should be sprinkled during the beating with a few drops of cold water, or white of egg, or lemon-juice, and pounded to a smooth paste: this is more easily done, we believe, when they are first roughly chopped, but we prefer to have them thrown at once into the mortar. TO REDUCE ALMONDS TO A PASTE. , (The quickest and easiest way.) Chop them a little on a large and very clean trencher, then with a paste-roller (rolling-pin), which ought to be thicker in’ the middle than at the ends, roll them well until no small bits CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 513 are perceptible amongst them. We have found this method answer admirably; but as some of the oil is expressed from the almonds by it, and absorbed by the board, we would recommend a marble slab for them in preference, when it is at hand; and _ should they be intended for a sweet dish, that some pounded ° sugar should be strewed under them. When a board or strong trencher is used, it should be rather higher in the middle than at the sides. TO COLOUR ALMONDS OR SUGAR-GRAINS FOR CAKES, OR PASTRY. Blanch, dry, and chop them rather coarsely; pour a little prepared cochineal into the hands, and roll the almonds between them until they are equally coloured; then spread them ona sheet of paper, and place them in a very gentle degree of heat to dry. Use spinage-juice (see page 427) to colour them green, and a strong infusion of saffron to give them a yellow tint. They have a pretty effect when strewed over the icing of tarts or cakes, especially the rose-coloured ones, which should be ‘rather pale. The sugar is prepared in the same manner, after being first broken into lumps, and then, with the end of a paste roller, into grains about the size of a pea; but unless it be dry and hard, and carefully done, it will absorb too much of the cochineal: when but slightly coloured it is very ornamental dropped on the borders of creamed tourtes, or on other varieties of fine pastry. TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR RICH CAKES. For all large and very rich cakes the usual directions are, ¢o beat the butter to a cream; but we find that they are quite as light, if not more so, when it is cut small and gently melted with just so much heat as will dissolve it, and no more. If it be shaken round in a saucepan previously warmed, and held near - the fire for a short time, it will soon be liquefied, which is all that is required: it must on no account be hot when it is added to the other ingredients, to which it must be poured in small portions after they are all mixed, in the way which we have minutely described in the receipt for a Madeira cake, and that of the Sutherland puddings (Chapter XVIII). To cream it, drain the water well from it, after it is cut, soften it a little before the fire should it be very hard, and then with the back of a large strong wooden spoon beat it until it resembies thick cream. When prepared thus, the sugar is added to it first, and then the other ingredients in succession. LL 514 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII, TO WHISK EGGS FOR LIGHT RICH CAKES. Break them one by one, and separate the yolks from the whites: this is done easily by pouring the yolk from one half of the shell to the other, and letting the white drop from it into a — basin beneath. With a small three-pronged fork take out the specks from each egg as it is broken, that none may accidentally escape notice. Whisk the yolks until they appear light, and — the whites until they are a quite solid froth; while any liquid remains at the bottom of the bowl they are not sufficiently beaten: when a portion of them, taken up with the whisk, and dropped from it, remains standing in points, they are in the proper state for use, and should be mixed at the cake directly. ORANGE-FLOWER MACAROONS. (DELICIOUS.) .” Have ready two pounds of very dry white sifted sugar. Weigh two ounces of, the petals of freshly-gathered_ orange- - blossoms after they have ‘been picked from the stems; and cut them very small with ir.of ‘scissors.znto the sugar, as they — will become discoloured if not mixed with it quickly after they are cut. When all are done, add the whites of seven eggs, and whisk the whole well together until it looks like snow ; then drop the mixture upon paper without delay, and send the cakes to a ‘very cool oven. Pounded sugar, 2 lbs.; orange-blossoms, 2 ozs.; whites of © eggs, 7: 20 minutes, or-more. i¢ OQés.—It is almost impossible to state with accuracy the pre- cise time required for these cakes, so much depends on the oven: they should be very delicately coloured, and yet dried © through. ‘i ALMOND MACAROONS. Blanch a pound of fresh Jordan almonds, wipe them dry, and set them into a very cool oven to render them perfectly so; pound them to an exceedingly smooth paste, with a little white of egg; then whisk to a firm solid froth the whites of seven eggs, or of eight, should they be small; mix with them a pound and a half of the finest sugar; add these by degrees to the almonds, whisk the whole up well together, and drop the mix- ture upon wafer-paper, which may be procured at the confec- tioner’s: bake the cakes in a moderate oven a very pale — brown. It is an improvement to their flavour to substitute ounce of bitter almonds for one of the sweet. They ar times made with an equal weight of each; and anoth HAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 515 of them is obtained by gently browning the almonds in a slow oven before they are pounded. Jordan almonds blanched, 1 Ib.; sugar, 14 1b.; whites of 7 or 8 eggs: 15 to 20 minutes. . VERY FINE COCOA-NUT MACAROONS. Rasp a fresh cocoa-nut, spread it on a dish or tin, and let it dry gradually for a couple of days, if it can be done conve- niently; add to it double its weight of fine sifted sugar, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a solid froth (see page 514), to the pound. Roil the mixture into small balls, place them on a buttered tin, and bake them in a very gentle oven about twenty minutes. Move them from the tin while they are warm, and store them in a very dry canister as soon as they are cold. Cocoa-nut, 3 lb.; sugar, 1 lb.; whites of eggs, 8: very gentle oven, 2() minutes. “iB IMPERIALS. (NOT VERY RICH.) Work into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and mix well with. them half a pound of sifted sugar, six ounces of currants, two ounces of candied orange-peel, the grated rind of a lemon, and four weil-beaten eggs. Flour a tin lightly, and with a couple of forks place the paste upon it in small rough heaps quite two inches apart. Bake them im a very gentle oven, from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes, or untilthey are equally coloured to a pale brown. Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 8 ozs.; currants, 6 ozs.; candied peel, 2 ozs.; rind of 1 lemon; eggs, 4: 15 to 20 minutes. VERY GOOD. SMALL RICH CAKES. Beat and mix well together four eggs properly whisked, and half a pound of fine sifted sugar; pour to them by degrees a quarter-pound of clarified butter, as little warmed as possible; stir lightly in with these four ounces of dry sifted flour, beat the mixture for about ten minutes, put it into small buttered patty- pans, and bake the cakes a quarter of an hour in a moderate oyen. They should be flavoured with the rasped or grated rind of asmall lemon, or with pounded mace or cianamon. Eggs, 4; sugar, 4 1b.; butter, 4 ozs.; flour, 4 ozs.; lemon- - rind, mace, or cinnamon: baked, 15 minutes. ALMOND ROCHER. ) together very fine eight ounces of almonds, blanched, d, six of candied orange-rind, or of orange and lemon a : moisten them with a few drops of cold water or white of egg, to SL > MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII. rind mixed, and one ounce of citron; then add to them two ounces of flour, three quarters of a pound of sugar, a small teaspoonful of mace and cinnamon mixed, and the whites of three large eggs; roll the mixture into balls about the size of a large marble and bake them on wafer-paper twenty minutes in a moderate oven: they should be quite crisp, but not deeply coloured. Almonds, 8 0zs.; candied orange-rind, 6 ozs.; citron, 1 0z.; flour, 2 ozs.; sugar, ? lb.; mace and cinnamon mixed, 1 tea- spoonful; whites of eggs, 3 large: baked, moderate oven, 20 ‘ minutes. : Obs.—When the flavour is not disliked, it will be found an improvement to substitute an ounce of bitter almonds for one of the sweet ; and we prefer the whole of the almonds and candied peel also cut into spikes instead of being chopped: the ingre- dients must then be made into a lither paste, and placed in small heaps on the paper. BITTER-ALMOND BISCUITS. Blanch, and then chop as fine as possible, two ounces of bit- ter almonds, and add them to half a pound of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar, and two ounces of butter, previously well mixed together. Whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a strong froth, beat them lightly to the other ingredients, drop the cakes on a buttered tm, or copper oven-leaf, and bake them rather slowly from ten to twelve minutes: they should be very small. Should the proportion of bitter almonds be considered unhealth- ful, use half as many, and substitute sweet ones for the re- mainder. ; . Flour, 4 lb.; sugar, 4 lb.; butter, 2 ozs.; bitter almonds, 2 ozs. ; whites of eggs, 2: slow oven, 10 to 12 minutes. FINE ALMOND CAKE. Blanch, dry, and pound to the finest possible ‘paste, eight ounces of fresh Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter; — prevent their oiling ; then mix with them very gradually twelve fresh eggs which have been whisked until they are exceedingly light; throw in by degrees one pound of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and keep the mixture light by constant beating, with a large wooden spoon, as the separate ingredients are added. Mix in by degrees three quarters of a pound of dried and sifted flour o the best quality; then pour geritly from the sediment a pound of butter which has been just melted, but not allowed t 1 CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 517 hot, and beat it very gradually, but very thorougnly, into the cake, letting one portion entirely disappear before another is thrown in; add the rasped or finely-grated rinds of two sound fresh lemons, fill a thickly-buttered mould rather more than half full with the mixture, and bake the cake from an hour and a half to two hours in a well-heated oven. Lay paper over the top when it is sufficiently coloured, and guard carefully against its being burned. Jordan almonds, 3 lb.; bitter almonds, 1 0z.; eggs, 12; su- gar, 1 lb.; flour, ¢ lb.; butter, 1 lb.; rinds lemons, 2: 13 to . 2 hours. Obs.—Three quarters of a pound of almonds may be mixed with this cake when so large a portion of them is liked, but an additional ounce or two of sugar, and one egg or more, will then be required. ) | POUND CAKE. Mix, as directed in the foregoing receipt, ten eggs (some cooks take a pound in weight of these), one pound of sugar, one of flour, and as much of butter. A glass of brandy and a pound of currants may be added very gradually just before the cake is put into the oven, with any spice that is liked ; and two or three | ounces of candied orange or lemon rind, sliced thin, or an ounce of carraway seeds, may supply the place of all. A cake made a half the quantity of the ingredients must be baked one our. RICE CAKE. Take six eggs, with their weight in fine sugar, and in butter ‘also, and half their weight of flour of rice, and half of wheaten flour ; make the cake as directed for the Madeira or almond cake, but throw in the rice after the flour; then add the butter | in the usual way, and bake the cake about an hour and ten mi- nutes. Give any flavour that is liked. The butter may be altogether omitted. This is a moderate-sized cake. Eggs, in the shell, 6; their weight in butter and in sugar; half as much flour of rice, and the same of wheaten flour: 1 hour, 10 minutes. WHITE CAKE. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it an equal weight of dried and sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of eight eggs, separately whisked, two ounces of candied orange- peel, half a teaspoonful of mace, a glass of brandy, one pound of ® flour strewed in by degrees, and last of all a pound and a quarter of currants. Directly it is mixed send the cake toa well-heated - oven, and bake it for a couple of hours. Four ounces of pounded. almonds are sometimes added to it. Butter, $ Ib.; sugar, 3 lb.; eggs, 8; mace, } teaspoonful, brandy, 1 wineglassful; flour, 1 lb.; candied-peel, 2 ozs.; cur- rants, 1}1b.: 2 hours. A GOOD SPONGE CAKE. Rasp on some lumps of well-refined sugar the rind of a fine sound lemon, and scrape off the part which has imbibed the es- — sence, or crush the lumps to powder, and add them to as much more as will make up the weight of eight or ten fresh eggs in the shell; break these one by one, and separate the whites from the yolks; beat the latter in a large bowl for ten minutes, then strew in the sugar gradually, and beat them well together. In the mean time let the whites be whisked to a quite solid froth, add them to the yolks, and when they are well blended sift and str the flour gently to them, but do not beat it into the mixture; pour the cake into a well-buttered mould, and bake it an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven. sev Rasped rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 8 or 10; their weight of dry, sifted sugar; and half their weight of flour: baked, 14 hour, moderate oven. A SMALLER SPONGE CAKE. (Very good.) om Five full-sized eggs, the weight of four in sugar, and of nearly three in flour, will make an exceedingly good cake: it “may be flavoured, like the preceding one, with lemon-rind, of with bitter almonds, vanilla, or confected orange-blossoms re- 518 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII. duced to powder. An hour will bake it thoroughly. All the - : ingredients for sponge cakes should be of good quality, and the sugar and flour should be dry; they should also be passed q through a fine sieve kept expressly for such purposes. The excellence of the whole depends much on the manner in which the eggs are whisked; this should be doneas lightly as possible; but it is a mistake to suppose that they cannot be too long beaten, as after they are brought to a state of perfect firmness they are » injured by a continuation of the whisking, and will at times — : curdle, and render a cake heavy from this cause. CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 519 A SPONGE CAKE. . (Good and quickly made.) Beat together for between twenty and thirty minutes, the yolks of nine and the whites of five fresh eggs; then by degrees add three quarters of a pound of sugar, and six and a half of flour. Flavour it or not, at choice, with the grated rind of a lemon, and bake it an hour, or rather more, in a brisk oven. A GOOD MADEIRA CAKE. Whisk four fresh eggs until they are as light as possible, then, continuing still to whisk them, throw in by slow degrees the following ingredients in the order in which they are written : six ounces of dry, pounded, and sifted sugar; six of flour, also dried and sifted ; four ounces of butter just dissolved, but not heated; the rind of a fresh lemon; and the instant before the cake is moulded, beat well in the third of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda: bake it an hour in a moderate oven. In this, as in all compositions of the same nature, observe particu- larly that each portion of butter must be beaten into the mix- ture until no appearance of it remains before the next is added; and if this be done, and the preparation be kept light by con- stant and light whisking, the cake will be as good, if not better, than if the butter were creamed. Candied citron can be added to the paste, but it is not needed. Eggs, 4; sugar, 6 ozs.; flour, 6 ozs.; butter, 4 ozs.; rind of 1 lemon; carbonate of soda, 4 of teaspoonful: 1 hour, mo- derate oven. A SOLIMEMNE. (A rich French breakfast cake, or Sally Lunn.) From three quarters of a pound of flour, take three ounces Si a for the leaven, and make it into a lithe paste with half an ounce of solid, well-washed yeast (see Chapter XX VIII.), mixed with | two or three tablespoonsful of just warm cream, or new milk ; throw a cloth over and leave it near the fire to rise for about half an hour, or until it is twice its original size. In the interim make a hollow in the centre of the remainder of the flour, and put into it a quarter of an ounce of fine salt, one ounce of ounded sugar, the yolks of four fresh eggs, four ounces of cccean butter, and a couple of tablespoonsful of cream, also warm. Mix the whole gently and carefully into a perfectly fig oT Aae 520 7 MODERN COOKERY. [omap. xxtr. smooth paste, flatten it with the hand upon the dresser, spread the leaven over it, and blend them thoroughly with light knead- ing, as directed for brioche paste, page 339. ‘The whole should be of the same colour throughout. Next, put it into a small, well-buttered copper stewpan, or plain cake-mould, and let it remain in a moderately warm place until-it has risen, like the leaven, to double its original size ; then with a paste-brush or feather wash the top with beaten ege, and without disturbing it, set it into a tolerably quick oven, and bake it nearly or quite an hour; but do not allow it to be too deeply coloured. -‘Turn it from the mould, cut it once or twice asunder, and pour over the slices plenty of good. butter, just dissolved in a small saucepan ; put the cake together again, and serve it immediately. It may be converted into an excel- lent entreméts by spreading currant, or other fine jelly, or pre- . serve, quickly upon it when it is cut, and sifting sugar thickly on the top after it is restored to its proper form: it is then called a Dresden cake. We think that when left until cold and toasted, the solimemne is even better than when served hot. It will be many hours rising ; sometimes as many as six or eight. If wanted for breakfast it should be made over night. Flour 2 lb.; yeast, 3 oz.; little cream ; salt, 4 oz. ; sugar, 1. 02. ; yolks of eggs, 4; butter, 4 ozs.: to rise from 6 to 8 hours. Baked 1 hour. m BANBURY. CAKES. First, mix well together a pound of currants, cleaned with | great nicety and dried, a quarter-pound of beef-suet, finely minced, three ounces:each of candied orange and lemon-rind, shred small, a few grains of salt, a full quarter-ounce of pounded cinnamon and nutmeg mixed, and four ounces of macaroons or ratafias rolled to’ powder. Next, make a light paste with four- teen ounces of butter to the pound of fiour; give it an extra. ‘turn or two to prevent its rising too much in the oven; roll out one half in a very thin square, and spread the mixed fruit and spice equally upon it; moisten the edges, lay on the re- maining half of the paste, rolled equally thin, press the edges securely together, mark the whole with the back of a knife in regular divisions of two inches wide and three in length, bake the pastry in a well-heated oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and divide it into cakes while it is still warm. They may be served as a second course dish either hot or cold, and may be glazed at pleasure. Currants, 1 lb.; beef-suet, 4 ozs.; candied orange and lemon- ee ae oo 7 CHAP, XXIII. | CAKES. 521 rind each, 3 ozs.; salt, small pinch ; mixed spices, } oz. ; maca- roons or ratafias, 4 ozs.: baked 25 to 30 minutes. MERINGUES. Whisk, to the firmest possible froth, the whites of six very fresh eggs, taking every precaution against a particle of the yolk falling in amongst them. Lay some squares or long strips of writing paper closely upon a board or upon very clean trenchers, which ought to be nearly or “== quite an inch thick, to —— prevent the meringues from receiving any colour from the bot- tom of the oven. When all is ready, mix with the eggs three quarters of a pound of the finest sugar, well dried, and sifted; stir them together for half a minute, then with a table or des- sertspoon lay the mixture quickly on the papers in the form of a half-ege, sift sugar over them without delay, blow off with the bellows all that does not adhere, and set the meringues into a gentle oven. The process must be expeditious, or the sugar melting will cause the cakes to spread, instead of retaining the shape of the spoon, as they ought. The whole art of making them, indeed, appears to us to consist in preserving their proper form, and the larger the proportion of sugar worked into the eggs, the more easily this will bedone. When they are coloured to a light brown, and are firm to the touch, draw them out, turn the papers gently over, separating the meringues from them, and with a teaspoon scoop out sufficient of the insides to form a space for some whipped cream or preserve, and put them again into the oven upon clean sheets. of paper, with the moist sides uppermost, to dry: when they are crisp quite through they are done. Let them become cold; fill, and then join them together with a little white of egg so as to give them the appearance shown in the plate. Spikes of pistachio nuts, or almonds, can be stuck over them, as represented there, at plea- sure. They afford always, if well made, a second course dish of elegant appearance, and they are equally ornamental to breakfasts or suppers of ceremony. ‘They are made in perfec- tion by the pastry-cooks in France, being equally light, delicate, Tia 522 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII. ° and delicious. Much of their excellence, it must be observed, depends at all times on the attention they receive in the baking, as well as in the previous preparation. ‘They must, of course, be quite cold before the preserve or cream is laid into them. From four to six ounces of almonds, finely pounded, may be smoothly mixed with the other ingredients for them ; and they may be flavoured with citron, lemon, or orange-rind by rasp- ing the skins of the fruit with part of the sugar with which _they are to be made; then drying, and reducing it to powder. Whites of very fresh eggs, 6; sugar # lb.: gentle oven, 20 to 30 minutes. ITALIAN MERINGUES, Take for these the proportion of whites of eggs and sugar al- ready indicated in the receipt for Nesselrode pudding, page 463 ; that is to say, six to the pound, or half that quantity for a small number of meringues. Boil the sugar with a pint of water until it whitens, and begins to fall in flakes from the skimmer; have the eggs whisked to a perfectly solid froth quite ready at the proper moment, and when the sugar has stood for two or three minutes, and been: worked well from the sides of the pan, mingle them gradually, but very quickly, with it, that the mass may be quite smooth; continue to stir them until they become firm enough to retain their. shape perfectly when moulded with a teaspoon; lay out the cakes on paper, and place them in an oven so slow as to harden without giving them colour. As they are not to be filled, but merely fastened to- gether, they may be baked on tins. Part of them may be varied by the addition of three or four ounces of pounded almonds mixed thoroughly with the remainder of the eggs and sugar, when a portion of the meringues have been moulded: these, however, will require to be much longer baked than the others; but they will be excellent. They should be lightly browned, and crisp quite through. Sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1 pint; whites of eggs, 6: very slow _ oven, 20 to 30 minutes, or longer. THICK, LIGHT GINGERBREAD. ; Crumble down very small eight ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of flour, then add to, and mix thoroughly with them, _ half a pound of good brown sugar, two ounces of powdered ginger, and half an ounce of ground carraway-seeds; beat gra- dually to these, first two pounds of treacle, next three well- whisked eggs, and last of all half an ounce of carbonate of soda, 4 A CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 523 dissolved in a very small cupful of warm water ; stir the whole briskly together, pour the mixture into-very shallow tins, put it immediately into a moderate oven, and bakeit for an hour and a half. The gingerbread made thus will be remarkably light and good. For children part of the spice and butter may be omitted. : + Flour, 2 Ibs.; butter, 8 ozs.; sugar, 3 lb.; powdered ginger, 2 ozs.; eggs, 3; carbonate of soda, } 0z.; water, very small cup- ful: baked 14 hour. Obs.— We think that something less than the half ounce of soda would be sufficient for this gingerbread, for with the whole quantity it rises in the oven to three times its height, and is apt to run over the tops of the tins, even when they are but half filled with it at first. GOOD COMMON GINGERBREAD. ‘Work very smoothly six ounces of fresh butter (or some that has been well washed from the salt, and wrung dry in a cloth) into one pound of flour, and mix with them thoroughly an ounce of ginger in fine powder, four ounces of brown sugar, and half a teaspoonful of beaten sloves and mace. Wet these with three quarters of a pound of cold treacle, or rather more, if needful; roll out the paste, cut the cakes with a round tin cutter, lay them on a floured or buttered baking tin, and put them into a very slow oven. Lemon-grate or candied peel can be added, when it is liked. Flour, 1 lb ; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 41b.; ginger, 1 oz.; cloves and mace, 4 teaspoonful ; treacle, 3 Ib.: 4 to ¢ hour. RICHER GINGERBREAD. Melt together three quarters of a pound of treacle and half a pound of fresh butter, and pour them hot on a pound of flour mixed with half a pound of sugar and three quarters of an ounce of ginger. When the paste is quite cold, roll it out with as much more flour as will prevent its adhering to the board: bake the cakes in a very gentle oven. COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD. Mix well together ten ounces of fine wheaten flour, and six of flour of rice (or rice ground to powder), the grated rind of a lemon, and three quarters of an ounce of ginger; pour nearly boiling wpon these a pound of treacle, five ounces of fresh butter, and five of sugar, melted together in a saucepan; beat the mixture, which will be almost a batter, with a wooden 524 MODERN COOKERY. -[cHAP. XXIII. spoon, and when quite smooth leave it until it is perfectly cold, then add to it five ounces of grated, cocoa-nut, and when it is thoroughly blended with the other ingredients, lay the paste in small heaps upon a buttered tin, and bake them in a ay, slack oven from half to three quarters of an hour. Flour, 10 ozs.; ground rice, 6 ozs.; rind of 1 learn ginger, 20z.; treacle, 1 lb.; sugar, 5 ozs.; butter, 5 02zs.; cocoanut, 5 ozs.: 4 to ? hour. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD. This receipt varies from the preceding one only in its propor- tions. On eight ounces of flour, well mixed with an equal weight of ground rice,* three quarters of an ounce of ginger, and the rind of a lemon, pour hot the same quantity of treacle, butter, and sugar, as directed above. When the paste is cold, strew over, and beat well into it, six ounces and a half of grated cocoa-nut. A couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon rind, cut small, can be added, at pleasure. Flour, 4 lb.; ground rice, 4 lb.; ginger, 2 oz.; rind of 1 lemon; butter, 5 ozs.; sugar, 5 ozs.; treacle, 1 lb.; cocoa- nut, 6} ozs. Obs.—We can particularly recommend these receipts to the reader: the cakes made by them are excellent. PARLIAMENT. Roll a pound of Lisbon sugar, to take out the lumps, and mix it well with two and a half of flour, and four ounces of ginger in fine powder. On these pour, quite boiling, a pound of butter, and a pound and a half of treacle which have been heated together, and when the paste is sufficiently cool, knead it very | smoothly, and roll it out thin upon the tins on which it is to be baked; mark it with the back of a knife into squares, set it into a slow oven, and let it remain until it is quite crisp, with- out allowing it to take much colour. Divide it while it is still wari, and as soon as it is cold put it into a dry canister. Lisbon sugar, 1 Ib.; flour, 2} lbs.; ginger, 4 ozs.; eas 1 lb.; ; treacle, 14 lb.: slow oven, 15 to 20 minutes. CHEAP GINGER BISCUITS. Work into quite small crumbs three ounces of good butter, with two pounds of flour, then add three ounces of pounded sugar and two of ginger, in fine powder, and knead them into a * Properly, rice-flour. CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 525 stiff paste, with new milk. Roll it thin, cut out the biscuits with a cutter, and bake them in a slow oven until they are crisp quite through, but keep them of a pale colour. A couple of eggs are sometimes mixed with the milk for them, but are no material improvement; an additional ounce of sugar may be used when a sweeter biscuit is liked. To make good ginger cakes, increase the butter to six ounces, and the sugar to eight, for each pound of flour, and wet the ingredients into a paste with eggs: a little lemon-grate will give it an agreeable flavour. Biscuits: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs.; pounded sugar, 3 02s. ; ginger, 2 ozs. Cakes: flour, 1 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 8 ozs.; ginger, 1 oz.; 3 to 4 eggs; rind of } lemon. JUDGE FRANKS’ GINGER BISCUITS. (Very gocd.) With half a pound of fine wheaten flour mix an equal weight of polenta (see page 423), and as much pounded and sifted sugar, with an ounce and a half of ginger, and a grain of salt. Make these ingredients into a smooth paste with thick sweet cream, roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into small square biscuits with a paste-runner or tin shape, and bake them twenty minutes, or more, in a quite slow oven. Wheaten flour, polenta, and pounded sugar, each 8 ozs. ; ginger, 14 oz.; a grain of salt; cream, } to 2 pint: 20 to 25 minutes, slow oven. CHESTNUT BISCUITS. A pound and two ounees of fine sound Spanish chestnuts will afford the weight required for these cakes. Make a slight incision in the rinds, but without cutting into the kernels, and throw the chestnuts into a large pan of boiling water; in half an hour, should they be tolerably soft, drain them from it, spread them on a tin, and set them into a gentle oven to dry. They should be well cooked, but without being in the slightest degree hardened. Strip off the rind and skin, and pound them perfectly smooth in a large mortar; weigh three quarters of a pound of this paste, and add to it half a pound of flour, pre- viously well mixed with six ounces of sifted sugar; blend the ingredients thoroughly by working them together with the fingers ; then pour gradually to them a couple of eggs; mould the cakes about the size of a chestnut; wash them with beaten egg mixed with a little milk; and bake them in a quite gentle 526 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXIII.. oven from twenty to thirty minutes. If well made, they will be very crisp and good. | Pounded chestnuts, 12 ozs.: flour, 8 ozs.; sugar, 6 02zs.; eggs, 2: 20 to 30 minutes, slow oven. \ ISLE OF WIGHT DOUGH-NUTS. Work smoothly together with the fingers four ounces of good lard, and four pounds of flour; add half a pound of fine brown sugar, two tablespoonsful of allspice, one drachm of pounded cinnamon, half as much of cloves, two large blades of mace, beaten to powder, two tablespoonsful of fresh yeast which has been watered for one night, and which should be solid, and as much new milk as will make the whole into a rather firm dough ; let this stand from an hour to an hour and a half near the fire, then knead it well, and make it into bails about the size of a small apple; hollow them with the thumb, and enclose a few currants in the middle; gather the paste well over them, and throw the dough-nuts into a saucepan half filled with boiling lard; when they are equally coloured to a fine brown, lift them out and dry them before the fire on the back of a sieve. When they are made in large quantities, as they are at certain seasons in the island, they are drained upon very clean straw. ‘The lard should boil only just before they are dropped into it, or the outsides will be scorched before the insides are sufficiently done. Flour, 4 lbs.; lard, 4 ozs.; sugar, 4 Ib.; allspice, 2 table- spoonsful; pounded cinnamon, 1 drachm; cloves and mace, each } drachm ; yeast (solid), two large tablespoonsful : to rise, 1to ljhour. Currants, at choice: dough-nuts boiled in lard, . 5 to 7 minutes. CINNAMON, OR LEMON CAKKS. Rub six ounces of good butter into a pound of fine dry flour, and work it lightly into crumbs; then add three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, a dessertspoonful of pounded cinnamon (or half as much when only a slight flavour is liked), and make these ingredients into a firm paste with three eggs, or four, if needed. Roll it, not. very thin, and cut out the cakes with a tin shape. Bake them in a very gentle oven from fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer, should they not be done quite through. As soon as they are cold, put them into a clean © and dry tin canister, a precaution which should be observed with all small sugar cakes, which ought also to be loosened from the oven-tins while they are still warm. % Sad th + te i we CHAP. XXIII. } CAKES, 527 Flour, 1 Ib.; butter, 6 ozs.; sugar, 3 1b.; cinnamon, 1 dessertspoonful (more or less, to the taste) ; eggs, 3 to 4. : Obs.— Lemon cakes can be made by this receipt by substitut- ing for the cinnamon the rasped or grated rinds of two lemons, and the strained juice of one, when its acidity is not objected to. More butter, and more or less of sugar, can be used at will, both for these and for the cinnamon cakes. QUEEN CAKES. To make these, proceed exactly as for Sutherland puddings (see Chapter XVII.), but allow ten eggs for the pound of sugar, butter, and flour, and when these are all well mixed, throw in half a teaspoonful of mace, and a pound of clean dry currants. Bake the cakes in small well-buttered tin pans (heart-shaped ones are usual), in a somewhat brisk oven, for about twenty minutes. JUMBLES. | Rasp on some good sugar the rinds of a couple of lemons; dry, reduce it to powder, and sift it with as much more as will make up a pound in weight; mix with it one pound of flour, four well-beaten eggs and six ounces of warm butter: drop the mixture on buttered tins, and bake the jumbles in a very slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes. They should be pale, but perfectly crisp. A CHEAP COMMON CAKE. Knead well into a couple of, pounds of light, well-risen, bread-dough, halfa pound of butter, half a pound of Lisbon sugar, and half a pound of currants; add some grated nutmeg, and leave the cake to rise for an hour, then bake it in a rather brisk oven for about an hour andaquarter. For children, two ounces of the butter may be omitted; but when a somewhat richer cake is desired four ounces more of sugar and of cur- rants, a little candied peel, and the yolks of a couple of eggs, or a small cup of warm cream, may be added to it. Some cooks despatch it tothe oven as soon as it is mixed, but it is not then so light. A GOOD SODA CAEE. Break down half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of fine dry flour, and work it into very small crumbs; mix well with these half a pound of sifted sugar, and pour to them first, a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and next, three well- ™ ' ais a 528 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXiITs 9 whisked eggs; add some grated nutmeg, or fresh lemon-rind, © and eight ounces of currants, cleaned and dried; beat the whole well and lightly together, then strew in a very small teaspoon- ful of good carbonate of soda in thefinest powder, and again, beat the cake well and lightly for three or four minutes; put it into a buttered mould, and bake it from an hour to an hour and a quarter; or divide it in two, when three quarters of an hour will be sufficient for each part. Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 4 Ib.; sugar, 4 1b.; boiling milk, full i pint ; eggs, 3; currants, } 1b.; good carbonate of soda, 1 very small teaspoonful: 1 to 14 hour. Or: divided in two, } to 2 hour. Obs.—This, if carefully made, resembles a pound cake, but is much less expensive, and far more wholesome, while it has ~~ the advantage of being very expeditiously prepared. Great care, however, must be taken to avoid mixing with it too large a proportion, or a coarse quality of soda; as either will impart to it a far from agreeable flavour. A GOOD LIGHT BUN. Break quite small three ounces of good butter into a pound and a quarter of flour, stir into the middle of these a spoonful — and a quarter of solid, well-purified yeast, mixed with some- thing more than a quarter-pint of warm milk, and leave it to rise before, but not close to the fire, for an hour, or longer, should it not then appear extremely light. Add to three eggs, properly whisked, a few spoonsful of warm milk, strain and beat them to the bun; next, mix with it six ounces of pale brown sugar, six of well-cleaned currants, and the grated rind of a small lemon, or some nutmeg, if preferred; or, in lieu of either, slice into it an ounce and a half of candied orange-rind. Let it again rise for an hour, then beat it up lightly with a wooden spoon, put it into a buttered pan, and bake it in a brisk oven for nearly or quite an hour. An additional ounce of butter will improve it. Flour, 13 lb. ; yeast, 13 tablespoonful: 1 hour, ormore. Eggs, 3; milk, less than 4 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; currants, 6 ozs. ; lemon- grate, nutmeg, or candied orange-rind, at pleasure: 1 hour, Baked nearly or quite an hour; brisk oven. i COCOA-NUT BISCUIT, (Hacellent.) With a pound of flour mix three ounces of a sound fresh . cocoa-nut, rasped on a fine grater; make a leaven as for the CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 529 . bun in the foregoing receipt, with a large tablespoonful of good yeast, and about the third of a pint of warm new milk; let it stand for an hour, then strew over and mix well up with it four ounces of pounded sugar; next, dissolve two ounces of butter in a very little milk, cool it down with a few spoonsful of cold milk if needful, and pour it to a couple of well-whisked eggs; with these make the other ingredients into a very light dough, let it stand from three quarters of an hour to an hour, and bake it about the same time in a rather quick oven. Two ounces more of sugar, one of butter, and two of candied orange-rind, sliced thin, will convert this into a good cake, the cocoa-nut imparting great richness as well as flavour to the mixture: the proportion -of this can also be regulated by the taste, after the first trial. Flour, 1 lb.; grated cocoa-nut, 3 ozs.; yeast, 1 large table- spoonful; milk, } of pint: 1 hour. Pounded sugar, 4 ozs.; butter, 2 ozs.; eggs, 2; little milk: 2 tol hour. Or: sugar, 6 ozs.; butter, 3 ozs.; candied orange-rind, 2-ozs.; baked nearly or quite an hour. MOST EXCELLENT BUNS. Work into half a pound of fiour three ounces of butter, until it is quite in crumbs ; mix thoroughly with them four ounces of - sugar, the slightest pinch of salt, an ounce, or rather more, of candied orange or lemon rind, shred extremely small, and a - little grated nutmeg ; to these pour boiling a small teacupful of cream, or of milk when this cannot be had; mix them a little, and add immediately two eggs, leaving out the white of one, and when the whole is well mingled, dust over, and beat well into it, less than half a teaspoonful of good carbonate of soda, perfectly free from lumps; rub an oven-tin with butter, drop the buns upon it with a spoon, and send them to a moderate oven. When they are firm to the touch in every part, and well coloured underneath, they are done. They resemble good cakes, if properly made, although in reality they are not rich: to render them so thé proportion of sugar and of butter can be increased, and currants added also. It is immaterial, we find, whether they be put into the oven as soon as they are mixed, or an hour afterwards. They are equally light. Flour, }1b.; butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; candied orange- rind, 1 oz. or more; grated nutmeg; cream (or milk) 1 small teacupful ; egg-yolks 2, white 1; good carbonate of soda about. a third of teaspoonful: 15 to 25 minutes, moderate oven. ; Obs.— These proportions make just a dozen of small buns. ? M M 530 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIII. A GALETTE. The galette is a favourite cake in France, and may be made rich, and comparatively delicate, or quite common, by using more or less butter for it, and by augmenting or diminishing the size. Work lightly three quarters of a pound of good butter into a pound of flour, add a large saltspoonful of salt, and make these into a paste with the yolks of a couple of eggs mixed with a small cupful of good cream, should it be at hand; if not, with © water ; roll this into a complete round, three quarters of an inch thick; score it in small diamonds, brush yolk of egg over the top, and bake the galette for about half an hour in a tolerably brisk oven: it is usually eaten hot, but is served cold also. An ounce of sifted sugar is sometimes added to it. A good galette: flour, 1 lb.; butter, ¢ Ib.; salt, 1 saltspoonful ; yolks of eggs, 2; cream, small cupful: baked 3} hour. Common galette: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 to 1 Ib.; no eggs. CORNISH HEAVY CAKE. Mix with a pound and a half of flour, ten ounces of well- cleaned currants, and a small teaspoonful of salt; make these into a smooth paste with clotted cream (any which is very thick will do), roll the cake until it is an inch and a quarter in depth, and bake it thoroughly in a quick oven, after having scored the top. . Flour, 15 Ib.; currants, 10 ozs.; salt, small teaspoonful ; clotted, or very thick cream, ~ to full pint: 35 to 45 minutes, brisk oven. FLEED OR FLEAD CAKES. These are very much served as a tea-cake at the tables of the superior order of Kentish farmers. For the mode of making them, proceed as for flead-crust (see Chapter XVI.); cut the cakes small with a round cutter, and leave them more than half an inch thick: if well made they will rise much in the oven. Bake them rather quickly, but keep them pale. Flour, 2 Ibs.; flead, 14 lb.; butter, 6 ozs.: baked 10 to 15 minutes. | THREADNEEDLE STREET BISCUITS. ‘ * Mix with a couple of pounds of sifted flour of the very best quality, three ounces of good butter, and work it into the smallest possible crumbs; add four ounces of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and make them into a firm paste with new milk; beat CHAP. XXIII. | CAKES. 531 this forcibly for some minutes with the rolling-pin, and when it is extremely smooth roll it the third of an inch thick, cut it with a small square cutter, and bake the biscuits in a very slow oven until they are crisp to the centre: no part of them should remain soft. Half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda is said to improve them, but we have not put it to the test. Caraway- seeds can be added when they are liked. Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; new milk, 1 pint, or more: biscuits s/owly baked until crisp. GOOD CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS. Make some fine white flour into a smooth paste with new milk; divide it into small balls; roll, and afterwards pull them with the fingers as thin as possible ; prick them all over, and bake them in a somewhat brisk oven from ten to twelve minutes. THE COLONEL’S BISCUITS. Mix a slight pinch of salt with some fine sifted flour; make it into a very smooth paste with thin cream, and bake the biscuits gently, after having prepared them for the oven like those which precede. Store them as soon as they are cold in a dry canister, to preserve them crisp: they are excellent. AUNT CHARLOTTE’S BISCUITS. These biscuits, which are very simple and wholesome, may be made with the same dough as good white bread, with the addition of from half to a whole ounce of butter to the pound, kneaded into it after it has risen. Break the butter small, ‘spread out the dough a little, knead it in well and equally, and leave it for about half an hour ; then roll it a quarter of an inch thick, prick it well all over, cut out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes: they should be crisp quite through, but not deeply coloured. White-bread dough, 2 lbs. ; butter, 1 to2 ozs.: to rise } hour. Baked in moderate oven 10 to 15 minutes. Obs.—To make the biscuits by themselves, proceed as for Bordyke bread; but use new milk for them, and work three ounces of butter into two pounds of flour before the yeast is added. 532 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIV. CHAPTER XXTYV. CONFECTIONARY. Citron. "Oo CLARIFY SUGAR.. Ir is an economy to use at once the very best sugar for confece tionary in general, for when highly refined it needs little or no clarifying, even for the most delicate purposes ; and the coarser kinds lose considerable weight in the process. Break it into large lumps, and put it into a very clean preserving pan ; mea- sure for each pound a pint of spring water if it be intended for syrup, but less than half that quantity for candying or making barley-sugar. Beat first apart (but not to a strong froth), and afterwards with the water, about half the white of an egg for six pounds of sugar, unless it should be very common, when twice as much may be used. When they are well mixed pour them over the sugar, and let it stand until it is nearly dissolved; then stir the whole thoroughly, and place it over a gentle fire, but do not disturb it after the scum begins to gather on the top; let it boil for five minutes, then take the pan from the fire, and when it has stood a couple of minutes lear off the scum entirely, with a skimmer; set the pan again over the fire, and when the sugar begins to boil throw in a little cold water, which has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity first measured, and repeat the skimming until the syrup is very clear; it may then CHAP. XxIv.] CONFECTIONARY. 533 be strained through a muslin, or a thin cloth, and put into a clean pan for further boiling. For syrup: sugar, 6 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; 4 white of 1 egg. For candying, &c.: sugar, 6 lbs.; water, 24 pints: 5 to 10 minutes. TO BOIL SUGAR FROM SYRUP TO CANDY, OR TO CARAMEL. The technicalities by which confectioners distinguish the dif- ferent degrees of sugar-boiling, seem to us calculated rather to puzzle than to assist the reader; and we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to such plain English terms as may suffice, we hope, to explain them. After having boileda certain time, the length of which will in a measure depend upon the quality of the sugar as-well as on the quantity of water added, it becomes a thin syrup, and will scarcely form a short thread if a drop be pressed between the thumb and finger and they are then drawn apart; from five to ten minutes more of rapid boiling will bring it to a thick syrup, and when this degree is reached the thread may be drawn from one hand to the other at some length without break- ing; but its appearance in dropping from the skimmer will per- haps best denote its being at this point, as it hangs in a sort of string as it falls. After this the sugar will soon begin to whiten, and to form large bubbles in the pan, when, if it be intended for barley-sugar, or caramel, some lemon-juice or other acid must be added to it, to prevent its graining or becoming sugar again; but if wanted to candy, it must be stirred without ceas- ing until it rises almost to the top of the pan, in one large white mass, when it must be used immediately or laded out into paper cases or on to dishes, with the utmost expedition, as it passes in an instant almost, from this state to one in which it forms a sort of powder, which will render it necessary to add water, to stir it until dissolved, and to reboil it to the proper point. For barley-sugar likewise it must be constantly stirred, and carefully watched after the lemon-juice is added. A small quantity should be dropped from time to time into a large basin of cold water by those who are inexperienced in the process; when in falling into this it makes a bubbling noise, and if taken out immediately after it snaps clean between the teeth without sticking to them, it must be poured out znstantly: if wanted for sugar-spinning, the pan must be plunged as quickly as possible into a vessel of cold water. 584. : MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIV. _ CARAMEL. (The quickest way.) . Put into a brass skillet, or preserving pan, some sifted sugar of the finest quality, and stir it softly with a wooden spoon or spatula, over a very gentle fire until it has become liquid; a pale or a deep tint may then be given to it, according to the purpose for which it is required: so soon as it is entirely melted, and looks clear, it is ready for use. French cooks glaze small pastry by just dipping the surface into it; and they © use it also for nougat, and other confectionary, though it is not in general quite so brilliant as that which is made by the pre- ceding receipt. When thesugar first begins to melt it should be .,btirred only just in that part, or it will not be equally coloured. BARLEY-SUGAR. Add to three pounds of highly-refined sugar one pint and a quarter of spring water, with sufficient white of egg to clarify it in the manner directed in the last page but one; pour to it, when it begins to whiten, and to be very thick, a dessertspoonful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon; and boil it quickly until it is at the point which we have indicated above. A few drops of essence of lemon may be added to it, just as it is taken from the fire. Pour it on to a marble slab, or on to a shallow dish which has been slightly oiled, or rubbed with a morsel of fresh butter; and when it begins to harden at the edges form it into ‘sticks, lozenges, balls; or any other shapes at pleasure. While it is still liquid it may be used for various purposes, such as Chan- tilly baskets, palace bonbons, des croques-en-bouches,* cerises au caramel, &c.: for these the vessel containing it must be set into a pan of water, and it must again be liquefied with a very gentle degree of heat should it cool too quickly. As it soon dissolves if exposed to damp, it should be put into very dry canisters as soon as it is cold, and these should be kept in a dry place. Best sugar, 3 lbs.; water, 1} pint; white of egg, 4 of 1; lemon- - juice, 1 dessertspoonful. NOUGAT. This is a preparation of barley sugar, and almonds, filberts, or pistachio-nuts, of which good confectioners, both foreign and * These are formed of small cakes, roasted chestnuts, and various other things, just dipped singly into the barley-sugar, and then arranged in good form and joined in a mould, from which they are turned out for table. _ CHAP. XXIV. | CONFECTIONARY. 535 English, make a great variety of highly ornamental dishes. We must, however, confine our directions to the most common and simple mode of serving it. Blanch twelve ounces of fine Jor- dan almonds in the usual way, wipe them very dry, split them in halves, and spread them upon tins or dishes; dry them in a very gentle oven, without allowing them to brown; or if the flavour be liked better so, let them be equally coloured to a pale | gold tint: they should then be often turned while in the oven. Boil to barley sugar in a small preserving pan six ounces of highly-refined sugar, throw in the almonds, mix them with it well without breaking them, turn the nougat on to a dish slightly rubbed with oil, spread it out quickly, mark it into squares, and cut it before it is cold; or pour it into a mould, and with an oiled lemon spread it quickly, and very thin over it, and turn it out when cool. It. must at all times be carefully preserved from damp ; and should be put into a dry tin box as soon as it is cold. Sugar, 6 ozs.; almonds, 12 ozs. Another, and more expeditious way of making it, is to boil the sugar to caramel without any water, as directed at page 534: the proportion of almonds can be diminished at pleasure, but the nougat should always be well filled with them. GINGER CANDY. Break a pound of highly-refined sugar into lumps, put it into a preserving pan, and pour over it about the third of a pint of spring water; let it stand until the sugar is nearly dissolved, thenset itover a perfectly clear fire, and boil it until 1t becomes a thin syrup. Have ready ina large cup a teaspoonful of the very best ginger in powder ; mix it smoothly and gradually with two or three spoonsful of the syrup, and then stir it well into the whole. Watch the mixture carefully, keep it stirred, and drop it oftenfrom a spoon to_ascertain the exact point of boiling it has reached. When it begins to fall in flakes, throw in the freshly- grated rind of a very large lemon, or of two small ones, and work the sugar round quickly as itis added. The candy must now be stirred constantly until it is done: this will be when it falls in a mass from the spoon, and does aot sink when placed in a small heap ona dish. It must be poured, or /aded out, as expeditiously as possible when ready, or it will fall quite into powder. If this should happen, a little water must be added to it, and it must be reboiled to the proper point. The candy, if dropped in cakes upon cold dishes, may be moved off without difficulty before it is thoroughly cold, but it must not be touched while quite hot, or it will break. 536 MODERN COOKERY. [cHaP. XxIv. Sugar, highly refined, 1 lb.; water, 4 of a pint; ginger, 1 teaspoonful; rind of 1 large lemon. ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY. Beat in three quarters of a pint, or rather more, of water, about the fourth part of the white of an egg, and pour it on two pounds of the best sugar broken into lumps. When it has stood a little time, place it over a very clear fire, and let it boil for a few minutes, then set it on one side, until the scum has subsided; clear it off, and boil the sugar until it is very thick, then strew in by degrees three ounces of the petals of the orange- blossom, weighed after they are picked from their stems. Con- tinue to stir the candy until it rises in one white mass in the ~ pan, then pour it into small paper cases, or on to dishes, and follow for it precisely the same directions as are given for the ginger-candy in the preceding receipt. The orange-flowers will turn brown if thrown too soon into the syrup: it should be more than three parts boiled when they are added. ‘They must be gathered on the day they are wanted for use, as they become soon discoloured from keeping. ; Sugar, 2 Ibs.; water, 2 pint; + white of egg; orange-blos- soms, 3 ozs. ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY: (Another Recetpt.) The French, who are very fond of the delicious flavour of the orange-blossom, leave the petals in the candy; but a more deli- cate confection, to English taste, is made as follows:—Throw the orange-flowers into the syrup when it has boiled about ten minutes, and after they have simmered in it for five more, pour the whole out, and leave them to infuse until the following day, -or even longer, if more convenient; then bring the syrup to - the point of boiling, strain it from the blossoms through a muslin, and finish it by the foregoing receipt. COCOA-NUT CANDY. Rasp very fine a sound fresh cocoa-nut, spread it on a dish, and let it dry naturally for two or three days, as it will not bear ~ the heat of an oven, and is too oily for use when freshly broken. Four ounces of it will be sufficient for a pound of sugar for most tastes, but more can be used at pleasure. Boil the sugar as for the orange-flower candy, and when it begins to be very thick and white strew in the nut, stir and mix it well, and CHAP. XXIV, | CONFECTIONARY. 537 do not quit it for an instant until it is finished. The pan should not be placed upon the fire but over it, as the nut is liable to burn with too fierce a heat. For almond-candy proceed in exactly the same way, but let the almonds, either whole or split, be perfectly well dried in a gentle oven, and do not throw them into the sugar until it approaches the candying point. PALACE-BONBONS. Take some fine fresh candied orange-rind, or citron, clear off the sugar that adheres to it, cut it into inch-squares, stick these singly on the prong of a silver fork, or on osier-twigs, dip them into liquid barley-sugar, and place them on a dish rubbed with the smallest possible quantity of very pure salad oil. When cold, put them into tin boxes or canisters well dried, with paper between each layer. EVERTON TOFFIE. Put into a. brass skillet, if at hand, three ounces of very fresh butter, and as soon as it is just melted add a pound of brown sugar of moderate quality; keep these stirred gently over a very clear fire for about fifteen: minutes, or until a little of the mixture, dropped into a basin of cold water, breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to them: when it is boiled to this point, it must be poured out immediately, or it will burn. The grated rind of a lemon, added when the toffie is half done, improves it much; or a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger, moistened with a little of the other ingredients, as soon as the sugar is dissolved, and then stirred to the whole, will vary it pleasantly to many tastes, The real Everton toffie is made, we apprehend, with a much larger proportion of butter, but it is the less wholesome on that very account. If dropped upon dishes first rubbed with a _ buttered paper, the toffie when cold can be raised from them easily. Butter, 3 ozs.; sugar, 1 lb.: 15 to 18 minutes. TOFFIE. (ANOTHER WAY.) Boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter for twenty minutes; then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched, divided, and thoroughly dried in a slow oven, or before the fire. Let the toffie boil after they are added, till it crackles when — 538 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXIV. dropped into cold water, and snaps between the teeth without sticking. Sugar, 1 lb.; butter, 5 ozs.; almonds, 2: o0zs.: 20 to 30 minutes. CHOCOLATE DROPS. Throw into a well heated metal mortar from two to four ounces of the best quality of cake-chocolate, broken small, and pound it with a warm pestle until it resembles a smooth paste, or very thick batter; then add an equal weight of sugar, in the finest powder, and beat them until they are thoroughly blended. Roll the mixture into small balls, lay them upon sheets of writing paper or upon clean dishes, and take them off when they are nearly cold. The tops may be covered with white nonpareil comfits, or the drops may be shaken in a paper con- taining some of these, and entirely encrusted with them; but it must be recollected that they will not adhere to them after they become hard. More or less sugar can be worked into the cho- colate according to the taste; and a Wedgwood mortar may be used for it when no other is at hand, but one of bell-metal will answer the purpose better. CHOCOLATE ALMONDS. When the chocolate has been softened, and mixed with an equal proportion of sugar, as directed in the foregoing receipt, enclose-singly in small portions of it some almonds previously well dried, or even slightly coloured in the oven, after having been blanched. Roll them very smooth in the hand, and cover them with the comfits, or form them like the almond shamrocks of page 543. Filberts and pistachio-nuts may be substituted for the almonds with good effect ; but they also must be per- fectly dry. | A, CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT. DISHES. 539 CHAPTER XXYV. DESSERT-DISHES. Olive, MELANGE OF FRUIT. Hear a dessert-dish quite high with alternate layers of fine fresh strawberries stripped from the stalks, white and red currants, and white or red raspberries ; strew each layer plenti- fully with sifted sugar, and just before.the dish is sent to table, pour equally over the top a glass. and a half of brandy, or, if preferred, the same quantity, or rather more, of white wine, mixed with the strained juice of one small, or of half a large lemon. Currants by themselves are excellent prepared in this way, and strawberries also. The fruit should be gently stirred with a spoon when it is served. Each variety must be picked with great nicety from the stalks. The brandy would, we think. be less to the general taste in this country than the wine. FRUIT EN CHEMISE, OR PERLE. Select for this dish very fine bunches of red and white currants, large ripe cherries, and gooseberries of different colours, and strawberries or raspberries very freshly gathered. Beat up the white of an egg with about half as much cold water, dip the fruit into this mixture, drain it on a sieve for an instant, and then roll it in fine sifted sugar until it is covered in every part; give it a gentle shake, and lay it on sheets of white | paper todry. In England, thin gum-water is sometimes used, p “a * : 540 MODERN COOKERY. [cnap. xxv. we believe, for this dish, instead of the white of ege; we give, however, the French method of preparing it. It will dry gradually in a warm room, or a sunny window, in the course of three or four hours. PEACH SALAD. Pare and slice half a dozen fine ripe peaches, arrange them in a dish, strew them with pounded sugar, and pour over them two or three glasses of champagne: other wine may be used, but this is best. Persons who prefer brandy can substitute it for wine. The quantity of sugar must be proportioned to the sweet- ness of the fruit. | ORANGE SALAD. Take off the outer rinds, and then strip away entirely the white inside skin from some fine China oranges; slice them thin, and remove the pips as this is done; strew over them plenty of white sifted sugar, and pour on them a glass or more of brandy : when the sugar is dissolved serve the oranges. In France ripe oe of superior quality are sometimes sliced in with the oranges. owdered sugar-candy used instead of sugar, is an improvement in this salad; and the substitution of port, sherry, or Madeira for the brandy is often considered so. ‘The fruit may be used without being pared, and a little cuirasseau or any other liqueur may be added to the brandy; or this last, when unmixed, may be burned after it is poured on the oranges. COMPOTE OF ORANGES. (A Hebrew dish.) After having pared and stripped the white inner rind from some fine oranges, pull them into quarters, arrange them neatly in a dish, and just before they are sent to table pour over them some rich syrup, and garnish the whole tastefully with preserved citron cut in thin slices, Half a pint of syrup will be sufficient for a large number of oranges: it would be improved, we think, if the rind of one, pared very thin, were infused in it for an hour before it is used. ‘his is one of the receipts which we have not considered it needful to prove. ORANGES WARMED. Place them in a Dutch oven at a considerable distance from the fire, and keep them constantly turned: they should be only just warmed through. Fold them in a napkin when done, and send them immediately to table. This mode of treating them is said to improve greatly the flavour of the oranges. CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT DISHES. 541 BLACK CAPS PAR EXCELLENCE. Cut a dozen fine Norfolk biffins in two without paring them, scoop out the cores, and fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh lemon-rind and with candied orange-peel. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar, press the two halves of each apple together, and place them closely in the tin; pour half a bottle of raisin or of any other sweet wine over them, and be careful to moisten the tops of all; sift white sugar thickly on them, and set the tin into a very hot oven at first, that the outsides of the apples may catch or become - black; then draw them to the mouth of the oven, and bake them gently until they are soft quite through: they will resemble a rich sweetmeat when done, and will remain good for many days. The Norfolk biffin answers for this dish far better than any © other kind of apple, but the winter queening, and some few firm sorts beside, can be used for it with fair success. These for variety may be cored without being divided, and filled with orange marmalade. The black caps served hot, as a second course dish, are excellent. Norfolk biffins, 12; rinds fresh lemons, 1 to 2; candied orange-rind, 2 to 3ozs.; pale brown sugar, 31b.; raisin or other wine, 4 bottle; little sifted sugar: 3 to 1 hour, or more. NORMANDY PIPPINS. To one pound of the apples, put one quart of water and six ounces of sugar; let them simmer gently for three hours, or more should they not be perfectly tender. A few strips of fresh lemon- peel and a very few cloves are by some persons considered agree= able additions to the syrup. . Dried Normandy pippins, 1 lb. ; water, 1 quart ; sugar, 60zs.: 3 to 4 hours. . Obs.—These pippins, if stewed with care, will be converted into a rich confection: they may be served hot in a border of rice, as a second course dish. t STEWED PRUNEAUX DE TOURS, OR TOURS DRIED PLUMS. These plums, which resemble in form small dried Norfolk biffins, make a delicious compéte: they are also excellent served dry. InFrance they are stewed until tender in equal parts of water, and of the light red wine of the country, with about four ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit: when port wine is used for them a smaller proportion of it will suffice. The sugar should not be added in stewing any dried fruits until they are at least half- Oa 542 MODERN COOKERY. © [[CHAP. XXV. done, as they will not soften by any means so easily in syrup as in unsweetened liquid. Dried plums, 1 lb.; water, 4 pint, and light claret, 3 pint, or water, 3 pint, and port wine, 4 pint: 14 hour. Sugar, 4 ozs.: 1 hour, or more. Obs.—Common French plums are stewed in the same way, with or without wine. A little experience will teach the cook the exact quantity of liquid and of sugar which they require. BAKED COMPOTE OF APPLES. (Our little lady's recetpt.) Put into a wide Nottingham jar, with a cover, two quarts of golden pippins, or of the small apple which resembles them in appearance, called the orange pippin (this is very plentiful in the county of Kent), pared and cored, but without being di- vided; strew amongst them some small strips of very thin fresh lemon-rind, throw on them, nearly at the top, half a pound of good Lisbon sugar, and set the jar, with the cover tied on, for some hours, or for a night, into a very slow oven. The apples will be extremely good, if not too quickly baked: they should remain entire, but be perfectly tender, and clear in appearance. Add a little lemon-juice when the season is far advanced. Apples, 2 quarts; rind, quite small lemon; sugar, } lb.: 1 night in slow oven; or some hours baking in a very gentle one. Obs.—These apples may be served hot as a second course dish; or cold, with a boiled custard poured round or over them. They will likewise answer admirably to fill Gabrielle's pudding, or a vol-au-vent a la créme, or the creamed toute em- périale, for which see Appendix. TO BAKE PEARS. : Wipe some large sound iron pears, arrange them on a dish with the stalk end upwards, put them into the oven after the bread is drawn, and let them remain all night. If well baked, they will be excellent, very sweet, and juicy, and much finer in . flavour than those which are stewed or baked with sugar: the bon chrétien pear also is delicious baked thus. STEWED PEARS. Pare, cut in halves, and core a dozen fine iron pears, put them — into a close shutting stewpan with some thin strips of lemon- rind, half a pound of sugar, in lumps, as much water as will nearly cover them, and should a very bright colour be desired,a __ dozen grains of cochineal, bruised, and tied in a muslin; stew the en ~ rh Yr a @ CHAP. XXv. | DESSERT DISHES. 543 fruit as gently as possible, from four to six hours, or longer, should it not be very tender. The Chamontel pear, which sometimes falls in large quantities before it is ripe, is excellent, if first baked until tolerably tender, and then stewed in a thin syrup. BOILED CHESTNUTS. Make a slight incision in the outer skin only, of each chest- nut, to prevent its bursting, and when all are done, throw them into plenty of boiling water, with about a dessertspoonful of salt to the half gallon. Some chestnuts will require to be boiled nearly or quite an hour, others little more than half the time; the cook should try them occasionally, and as soon as they are soft through, drain them, wipe them in a coarse cloth, and send them to table quickly in a hot napkin. ROASTED CHESTNUTS. The best mode of preparing these is to roast them, as in Spain, in a coffee-roaster, after having first boiled them from seven to ten minutes, and wiped them dry. They should not be allowed to cool, and will require but from ten to fifteen minutes roasting. They may, when more convenient, be finished over the fire as usual, or in a Dutch or common oven, but in all cases the previous boiling will be found an improve- ment. Never omit to cut the rind of each nut slightly before it is,cooked. Serve the chestnuts very hot in a napkin, and send salt to table with them. ALMOND SHAMROCKS. (Very good, and very pretty.) Whisk the white of a very fresh egg to a froth sufficiently solid to remain standing in high points when dropped from the whisk ; work into it from half to three quarters of a pound of very fine dry sifted sugar, or more should it be needed, to bring the mixture to a consistency in which it can be worked with the fingers. Have ready some fine Jordan almonds which have been blanched, and thoroughly dried at the mouth of the oven; roll each of these in a small portion of icing until it is equally covered, and of good form ; then lay them on sheets of thick writing paper, placing three together in the form of the shamrock, or trefoil, with a small bit of sugar twisted from the centre almond to form the stalk. When all are ready, set them into a very slow oven for twenty minutes or longer: they 544 MODERN COOKERY. [cHap, xxv. should become quite firm without taking any colour. They make an excellent and very ornamental dish. To give them flavour and variety, use for them sugar which has been rasped on the rinds of some sound lemons, or Seville oranges, or upon citron, and dried before it is reduced to powder ; or add to the mixture a drop of essence of roses, and a slight colouring of prepared cochineal. A little spinach-juice will give a beautiful green tint, but its flavour is not very agreeable. Filberts, or pistachio nuts will answer as well as almonds, iced in this way. SMALL SUGAR SOUFFLES. These are made with the same preparation of egg and sugar as the almond-shamrocks, and may be flavoured and coloured in the same way. The icing must be sufficiently firm to roll into balls scarcely larger than a nut: a little sifted sugar should be dusted on the fingers in making them, but it must not remain on the surface of the soufilés. ‘They are baked usually in very small round paper cases, plaited with the edge of a knife, and to give them brilliancy, the tops are slightly moistened, before they are set into the oven, by passing the finger, or a paste- brush, just dipped in cold water, lightly over them. Look at them in about a quarter of an hour, and should they be quite firm to the touch in every part draw them out; but if not let them remain longer. They may be baked on sheets: of paper, but will not preserve their form so well. For 1 white of egg, whisked to a very firm froth, 8 to 10 ozs. of sifted sugar, or more: soufilés, baked in extremely gentle oven, 16 to 30 minutes, or longer if needful. For a further variety of dessert dishes the reader is referred to the compotes of Chapter XX. These, with fresh and dried fruits, biscuits, cakes, olives, preserved ginger, and various other confections, form, with ices all that belong commonly to them, CHAP, XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. : 545 CHAPTER XXYVI. SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. Gays SS SSS oo ti eg i Wim n py fs Antique Wine Vase. STRAWBERRY VINEGAR, OF DELICIOUS FLAVOUR. Taxe the stalks from the fruit, which should be of a highly flavoured sort, quite ripe, fresh from the beds, and gathered in dry weather; weigh and put it into large glass jars, or wide- necked bottles, and to each pound pour about a pint and a half of fine pale white wine vinegar, which will answer the purpose better than the entirely colourless kind sold under the name of distilled vinegar, but which is, we believe, the pyroligneous acid greatly diluted. Tie a thick paper over them, and let the strawberries remain from three to four days; then pour off the vinegar and empty them into a jelly-bag, or suspend them in a cloth, that all the liquid may drop from them without pressure ; replace them with an equal weight of fresh fruit, pour the vine- gar upon it, and three days afterwards repeat the same process, diminishing a little the proportion of strawberries, of which the flavour ought ultimately to overpower that of the vinegar. In from two to four days drain off the liquid very closely, and after having strained it through a linen or a flannel bag, weigh it, and mix with it an equal quantity of highly-refined sugar roughly powdered ; when this is nearly dissolved, stir the syrup over a very clear fire until it has boiled five minutes, and skim NN Fo. 546 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI. it thorough.y; pour it into a delicately clean stone pitcher, or into large china jugs, throw a folded cloth over and let it re- — main until the morrow; put it into pint or half-pint bottles, and cork them lightly with new velvet corks; for if these be pressed in tightly at first, the bottles will be liable to burst : in four or five days they may be closely corked, and stored in a dry and cool place. Damp destroys the colour and injures the flavour of these fine fruit-vinegars; of which a spoonful or two in a glass of water affords so agreeable a summer beverage, and one which, in many cascs of illness, is so acceptable to in- valids. They make also most admirable sauces for Her Majesty’s pudding, common custard, batter, and various other simple and sweet light puddings. Strawberries (stalked), 4 lbs.; vinegar, 3 quarts: 3 to 4 days. Vinegar drained and poured on fresh strawberries, 4 lbs.: 3 days. Drained again on to fresh fruit, 3 to 4 Ibs..: 2 to 4 days. To each pound of the vinegar, 1 lb. of highly-refined sugar: boiled 5 minutes. Lightly corked, 4 or 5 days. —Where there is a garden the fruit may be thrown into Ss it ripens, within an interval of forty-eight hours, lof being all put to infuse at once, and it must then re- main in it a proportionate time: one or two days in addition to that specified will make no difference to the preparation. ‘The enamelled German stewpans are the best possible vessels to boil it in; but it may be simmered in a stone jar set into a pan of boiling water, when there is nothing more appropriate at hand ; though the syrup does not usually keep so well when this last method is adopted. Raspberries and strawberries mixed will make a vinegar of very pleasant flavour; black currants also will afford an ex- ceedingly useful syrup of the same kind. STRAWBERRY ACID ROYAL. Dissolve in a quart of spring water two ounces of citric acid, and pour it on as many quite ripe and richly-flavoured straw- berries, stripped from their stalks, as it will just cover; in twenty-four hours drain the liquid-closely from the fruit, and pour on it as much more; keep it in a cool place, and the next day drain it again entirely from the fruit, and boil it gently for three or four minutes, with its weight of very fine sugar, which should be dissolved in it before it is placed over the fire. It should be boiled, if possible, in an enamelled stewpan. ‘When perfectly cold put it into small dry bottles for use, and store it in a cool, but not damp place. It is one of the most delicate and CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 547 deliciously flavoured preparations possible, and of beautiful colour. Ifallowed to remain longer than the eight-and-forty hours before it is boiled, a brisk fermentation will commence. t must be well secured from the air when stored. Water, 1 quart; citric acid, 2 ozs.; strawberries, 2 to 3 lbs.-: 24 hours. Same quantity of fruit: 24 hours. Equal weight of sugar and this liquid: 3 to 4 minutes at the utmost. VERY FINE RASPBERRY VINEGAR. Fill glass jars, or large wide-necked bottles, with very ripe but perfectly sound, freshly gathered raspberries, freed from their stalks, and cover them with pale white wine vinegar: they may be left to infuse from a week to ten days without injury, or the vinegar may be poured from them in four and five, when more convenient. After it is drained off, turn the fruit into a sieve placed over a deep dish or bowl, as the juice will flow slowly from it for many hours ; put fresh raspberries into the bottles, and pour the vinegar back upon them; two or th ys later change the fruit again, and when it has stood the dace of time, drain the whole of the vinegar from it, pass jelly-bag, or thick linen cloth, and boil it gently for! five minutes with its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, or a pound and a quarter to the exact pint, and be very carefal to remove the scum entirely, as it rises. On the following day bottle the syrup, observing the directions which we have given for the strawberry vinegar. When the fruit is scarce it may be changed twice only, and left a few days longer in the vinegar. Raspberries, 6 lbs.; vinegar, 9 pints: 7 to 10 days. Vinegar drained on to fresh raspberries (6 lbs. of): 3 to.5 days. Poured again on fresh raspberries, 6 lbs.: 3 to 5 days. Boiled 5 minutes with its weight of sugar. Obs.—W hen the process of sugar-boiling is well understood, it will be found an improvement to boil that which is used for raspberry or strawberry vinegar to candy height before the liquid is mixed with it; all the scum may then be removed with a couple of minutes simmering, and the flavour of the fruit will be more perfectly preserved. For more particular direc- tions as to the mode of proceeding, the chapter of confectionary may be consulted. FINE CURRANT SYRUP, OR SIROP DE GROSEILLES. Express the juice from some fine ripe red currants, which have been gathered in dry weather, and stripped from the stalks; 548 MODERN COOKERY. [cmaP. XXVI. strain, and put it into a new, or a perfectly clean and dry earthen pitcher, and let it stand in a cellar or some cool place for twenty-four hours, or longer, should it not then appear per- fectly curdled, Pour it gently into a fine hair-sieve, and let the clear juice drain through without pressure; pass it through a jelly-bag, or a closely-woven cloth, weigh it, and add as much good sugar, broken small, as there is _juice, and when this is dissolved turn the syrup into a preserving pan or stewpan, and boil it gently for four or five minutes, being careful to clear off all the scum. In twelve hours afterwards the syrup may be put into small dry bottles, and corked and stored in a cool, but dry place. It is-a most agreeable preparation, retaining per- fectly the flavour of the fresh fruit; and mixed with water, it atfords, like strawberry or raspberry vinegar, a delicious sum- mer beverage, and one which is peculiarly adapted to invalids. - It makes also a fine isinglass jelly, and an incomparable sweet- pudding sauce. A portion of raspberry or cherry-juice may be mixedswit! ong of the currants at pleasure. - ORANGE-FLOWER RATAFIA. (A delicious kiqueur.) sugar, and bs quarters of a pint of water; throw into it three ounces of the petals only, plucked one by one from the stems, of some freshly gathered orange-blossoms, give them two minutes boil, take them from the fire, and when the whole is half cold stir in two bottles of white French brandy ; turn the mixture into a new and well-scalded stone pitcher, or jar, make it air-tight as soon as the liqueur is quite cold, and in from three to four weeks it will be ready to bottle after the flowers dave been strained ’from it: they: give it a delicious flavour. Water, $ pint; sugar, 1} 1b.: 15 to 20 minutes, or more. Petals of the orange-blossom, 3 ozs. ; 2 minutes. White French - brandy, 2 quarts: infuse 3 to 4 weeks. OXFORD PUNCH. Extract the essence from the rinds of three lemons by rub- bing them with sugar in lumps; put these into a large jug with the “peel of two Seville oranges and of two’ lemons cut extremely thin, the juice of, four Sev ile oranges and of ten lemons, and six glasses of calf’s feet jelly ina liquid state. Stir these well together, pour to them two quarts of boiling water, cover the — jug closely, and set it near the fire for a quarter of an hour, — then strain the mixture through a sieve into a punch bowl ‘eri: on oo 5 ig CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 549 jug, sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire, add half a pint of white wine, a pint of French brandy, a pint of Jamaica rum, and a bottle of orange shrub; stir the punch as the spirit is poured in. If not sufficiently sweet, add sugar in small quan- tities, or a spoonful or two of capillaire. Rinds of lemons rubbed with sugar, 3; thin peel of lemons, 2; of. Seville oranges, 2; juice of 4 Seville oranges, and 10 lemons; calf’s feet jelly, 6 glasses; water, 2 quarts. 3 hour. Capillaire, 1 bottle; white wine, } pint; French brandy and Jamaica rum, each 1 pint; orange shrub, 1 bottle. OXFORD RECEIPT FOR BISHOP. “Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon,* stick ‘cloves in these, and roast the lemon by a slow fire. Put small but equal quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace, and allspice, with a race of ginger, into a saucepan with half a pint of water: let it boil until it is reduced one half. Boil one bottle of port wine, burn a portion of the spirit Gis out of it by applyinga lighted paper 2== ==) to the saucepan. Put the roasted ===“ ———— _ lemon and spice into the wine; ‘stir <=== a it up well, and let it stand near the fire ten minutes. Rub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug, with the juice of half a lemon (not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate in some nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, and serve it up with the lemon and spice floating in it.” CAMBRIDGE MILK PUNCH. Throw into a couple of quarts of new milk the very thinly- pared rind of a fine lemon, and half a pound of good sugar in lumps; bring it slowly to boil, take out the lemon-rind, draw it from the fire, and stir quickly in a couple of well- whisked eggs which have been mixed with less than half a pint of cold milk, and strained through a sieve; the milk must not of course be allowed to boil after these are mixed with it. Add gradually a pint of rum, and half a pint of brandy; mill * A Seville orange stuck with cloves, to many tastes imparts a finer flavour than the lemon, * ee 550 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI. the punch to a froth, and serve it immediately with quite warm glasses. At the University the lemon-rind is usually omitted, but it is a great improvement to the flavour of the beverage. The sugar and spirit can be otherwise apportioned to the taste; and we would recommend the yolks of three eggs, or of four, in preference to the whole ones. New milk, 2 quarts; rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 2; cold milk, $ pint; rum, 1 pint; brandy, 3 pint. TO MULL WINE. (An excellent French receipt.) Boil in a wineglassful and a half of water, a quarter of an ounce of spice (cinnamon, ginger slightly bruised, and cloves), with three ounces of fine sugar, until they form a thick syrup, which must not on any account be allowed to burn. Pour ina pint of port wine, and stir it gently until it is on the pornt of boiling only: it should then be served immediately. The addi- tion of a strip or two of orange-rind cut extremely thin, gives to this beverage the flavour of bishop. In France light claret takes the place of port wine in making it, and the better kinds of vin du pays are very palatable thus prepared. Water, 14 wineglassful; spice, + oz., of which fine cloves, 24, and of remainder, rather more ginger than cinnamon; sugar, 3 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes. Port wine or claret, 1 pint; orange- rind, if used, to be boiled with the spice. Obs.—Sherry, or very fine raisin, or ginger wine, prepared as above, and stirred hot to the yolks of four fresh eggs, will be found excellent. A BIRTHDAY SYLLABUB. Put into a large bowl half a pound of sugar broken small, and pour on it the strained juice of a couple of fresh lemons; stir these well together, and add to them a pint of port wine, a pint of sherry, and half a pint of brandy; grate in a fine nut- meg, place the bowl under the cow, and milk it full. In serv~. ing it put a portion of the curd into each glass, fill it up with whey, and pour a little rich cream on the top. The rind of a lemon may be rasped with part of the sugar when the flavour is liked, but it is not usually added. ~ Juice of lemons, 2; sugar, 4 lb. or more; port wine, 1 pint; sherry, 1 pint; brandy 4} pint; nutmeg, 1; milk from the cow, 2 quarts. Obs.—We can testify to the excellence of this receipt. CHAP. XXVI. | SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 551 CUIRASSEAU, OR CURACOA. (An excellent and wholesome liqueur.) Stick into the rind of a very fine China orange of rich flavour from three to four cloves; put it into a glass jar, and shower over it half a pound of West Indian sugar, of good quality ; pour in a quart of French brandy, tie a couple of bladders over the jar, or stop it with a cork fitted to its size, and place it in a sunny window, or any other warm place, for a month; shake it gently round every day to dissolve the sugar, or stir it, if need-~ ful; then strain it off, and bottle it. It is sometimes filtered; but the long exposure to the air which this occasions is better avoided. It is an admirable household stomachic liqueur, of which we obtained the receipt abroad, from a friend who had it made yearly in considerable quantity. One very fine richly-flavoured China orange, left whole (or 2 small ones), stuck with 3 or 4 cloves; good pale brown sugar, 3 lb.; French brandy, 1 quart: infuse, 1 month. THE REGENT’S, OR GEORGE THE FOURTH’S, PUNCH. Pare as thin as possible the rinds of two China oranges, of two lemons, and of one Seville orange, and infuse them for an hour in half .a pmt of thin cold syrup; then add to them the juice of the fruit. Make a pint of strong green tea, sweeten it well with fine sugar, and when it is quite cold, add it to the fruit and syrup, with a glass of the best old Jamaica rum, a glass of brandy, one of arrack, one of pine-apple syrup, and two bottles of cham- pagne; pass the whole through a fine lawn sieve until it is per- fectly clear, then bottle, and put it into ice until dinner is served. We are indebted for this receipt to a person who made the punch daily for the prince’s table, at Carlton palace, for six months ; it has been in our possession some years, and may be relied on. Rinds and juice of 2 China oranges, 2 lemons, and of 1 Seville orange ;.syrup, 4 pint ; strong green.tea, sweetened, 1 pint ; best old Jamaica rum, arrack, French brandy (vieux cognac), and pine-apple syrup, each 1 glasstul; champagne, 2 bottles. In ice tor a couple of hours. THE OLD BACHELOR’S PUNCH. Put into a half-pint tumbler the very thin rind of a fresh lemon, and fill it with boiling water; squeeze the juice into a second glass of the same size, and fill 1t more than half full om 552 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. XXVI, with sugar in lumps; then pour in as much boiling water as it will contain, and when ‘the sugar is dissolved, turn the contents of both glasses into a hot jug; add a tablespoonful of fine cur- rant (or of guava) jelly, should it be at hand, stir the whole well, keep it very hot, and add to it as much spirit as will make it pleasant, but in the proportion of two glasses of brandy to one of rum. © MINT JULEP. (An American receipt.) “‘ Strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler, and add to them as much wine, brandy, or any other spirit, as you wish to take. Put some pounded ice into a second tumbler; pour this on the mint and brandy, and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the other until the whole is sufficiently impregnated with the flavour of the mint, which is extracted by the particles of the ice coming into brisk contact when changed from one vessel to the other. Now place the glass in a larger one, containing pounded ice; on taking it out of which it will be covered with frost-work.” DELICIOUS MILK LEMONADE. Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and mix with them a quarter-pint of lemon-juice, and the same quantity of Sherry; then add three quarters of a pint of cold milk, stir the whole well together, and pass it through a jelly- bag till clear. | EXCELLENT PORTABLE LEMONADE. Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a very fine juicy lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained juice of the fruit. Press the mixture into a jar, and when. wanted for use dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. It will keep a considerable time. If too sweet for the taste of the drinker, a very small portion of citric acid may be added when it is taken. EXCELLENT BARLEY WATER. — (Poor Xury’s receipt.) Wipe very clean, by rolling it in a soft cloth, two tablespoons- _ ful of pearl-barley; put it into a quart jug, with a lump or two of sugar, a grain or two of salt, and a strip of lemon-peel, cut thin; fill up the jug with boiling water and keep the mixture gently stirred for some minutes; then cover it down, and let it CHAP. XXVI.]. SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 553 stand until perfectly cold. In twelve hours, or less, it will be fit for use; but it is better when made over-night. If these direc- tions be followed, the barley-water will be comparatively clear, and very soft and pleasant to drink. A glass of calf’s feet jelly added to the barley is an infinite improvement; but as lemon- rind is often extremely unpalatable to invalids, their taste should be consulted before that ingredient is added, as it should be also for the degree of sweetness that is desired. After the barley-water has been poured off once, the jug may be filled with boiling water a second time, and even a third time with advantage. , RAISIN WINE. (Which, tf long kept, really resembles foreign.) First boil the water which is to be used for the wine, and let it again become perfectly cold; then put into a sound sweet cask eight pounds of fine Malaga raisins for each gallon that is to be used, taking out only the quite large stalks; the fruit and water may be put in alternately until the cask is full, the raisins being well pressed down in it; lay the bung lightly over, stir the Wine every day or two, and keep it full by the addition of water that has, like the first, been boiled, but which must always be quite cold when it is used. So soon as the fermentation has entirely ceased, which may be in from six to seven weeks, press in the bung, and leave the wine untouched for twelve months ; draw it off then into a clean cask, and fine it, if necessary, with isinglass, tied in a muslin and suspended in it. We have not ourselves had this receipt tried; but we have tasted wine made by it which had been five years kept, and which so much re- sembled a rich foreign wine that we could with difficulty believe it was English-made. To each gallon of water (boiled and left till cold) 8 Ibs. of fine Malaga raisins; to stand 12 months; then to be drawn off and fined. Obs.—The refuse raisins make admirable vinegar if fresh water be poured to them, and the cask placed in the sun. March is the best time for making the wine. ELDERBERRY WINE. (VERY GOOD.) Strip the berries, which should be fresh, and gathered on a dry day, clean from the stalks, and measure them into a tub or large earthen pan. Pour boiling water on them, in the pro- portion of two gallons to three of berries, press them down into the liquor, cover them closely, and let them remain until the 554 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XXVI. following day; then strain the juice from the fruit through a sieve or cloth, and, when this is done, squeeze from the berries the greater part of the remaining juice, mix it with that which was first poured off, measure the whole, add to it three pounds of sugar, three quarters of an ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ginger, for every gallon, and boil it twenty minutes, keeping it thoroughly skimmed. Put it, when something more than milk-warm, into a perfectly dry and sweet cask (or if but a very small quantity of wine be made, into large stone bottles, which answer the purpose quite well), fill this entirely, and set the wine directly, with a large spoonful of new yeast dropped into the bung-hole, and just stirred round in the liquor, or with a small toasted crust thickly spread with yeast.* VERY GOOD GINGER WINE. Boil together, for half an hour, fourteen quarts of water, twelve pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of the best ginger bruised, and the thin rinds of six largelemons. Put the whole, when milk-warm, into a clean dry cask, with the juice of the lemons, and half a pound of sun raisins; add one large spoonful of thick yeast, and stir the wine every day for ten days. When it has ceased to ferment, add an ounce of isinglass, and a pint of brandy; bung the wine close, and in two months it will be fit to bottle, but must remain longer in the cask should it be too sweet. When it can be obtained, substitute for the water in this receipt cider fresh from the press, which will give a very superior wine. Water, 14 quarts; sugar, 12 pounds; lemon-rinds, 6 ; ginger, 3 lb.; 4 hour. Juice of lemons, 6; raisins, $ lb.; yeast, 1 spoon- ‘ful; isinglass, 1 0z.; brandy, 1 pint. EXCELLENT ORANGE WINE. Take half a chest of Seville oranges, pare off the rinds as thin as possible, put two thirds of them into six gallons of water, and let them remain for twenty-four hours. Squeeze the oranges (which ought to yield seven or eight quarts of juice) through a sieve into a pan, and as they are done throw them into six gallons more of water; let them be washed well in it with the hands, and then put into another six gallons of water and left till the following day. For each gallon of wine, put * In from fourteen to twenty days this wine will have fermented sufficiently ; in three months it will be ready to drink; but it is better, and more wholesome, when longer kept. CHAP. XXVI.] SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 555 into the cask three pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, and the liquor strained clear from the rinds and pulp. Wash these again and again, should more liquor be required to fill the cask; but do not at any time add raw water. Stir the wine daily until the sugar is perfectly dissolved, and let it ferment from four to five weeks ; add to it two bottles of brandy, stop it down, and in twelve months it will be fit to bottle. Obds.—The excellence of all wine depends so much upon the fermentation being properly conducted, that unless the mode of regulating this be understood by the maker, there will always be great danger of failure in the operation. There is, we be- lieve, an excellent work upon the subject by Mr. McCulloch, which the reader who needs information upon it will do well to consult : our own experience is too slight to enable us to mul- tiply our receipts. COUNSELLOR’S CUP. Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar upon the rinds of two fine China oranges, put it into an enamelled stewpan and pour on it a pint of water; let these boil gently for two or three minutes, then pour in. half a pint of China orange-juice mixed with that of one lemon and previously strained through muslin; the moment this begins to boil, pour it into a hot jug, and stir to it half a pint of the best Cognac brandy.. Serve it immediately. When preferred cold, prepare the syrup with the juice of the fruit, cover it down in the jug, set it into ice, or into a very cool place, and add the spirit only just before the cup is wanted for table. Should the fruit be very acid, increase the proportion ef sugar. A few slight strips of the rind of a Seville orange cut very thin, would to many tastes be an agreeable addition to ne beverage ; which should be made always with fresh sound ruit. Sugar, 4 ozs. (6-if needed) rasped rinds of China oranges, 2; water, 1 pint: 3 minutes. Strained juice of China oranges mixed with that of 1 large lemon, 4 pint; best Cognac brandy, 3 pint. lObaes For a large cup these proportions must be doubled. Sherry or Madeira substituted for the brandy, will make a oes cold cup of this kind; and equal parts of well made emonade, and of any good light white wine, thoroughly cooled down, will give another agreeable beverage for warm weather ; but a much smaller proportion of wine would better adapt it to many tastes. As SR te 558 MODERN COOKERY. . [CHAP. XXVII. CHAPTER XXVIL. COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c. TO ROAST COFFEE. Persons who drink coffee habitually, and who are particular about its flavour and quality, should purchase the best kind in a raw state, and have it roasted at home. This can be done in very small quantities by means of the inexpensive apparatus shown above; the cost of this not exceeding seven or eight shil- lings,* and the supply of charcoal needed for it being very trifling indeed. The cylinder which contains the coffee should be only half filled, and it should be turned rather slowly over the fire, which should never be fierce, until a strong aromatic smell is emitted ; the movement should then be quickened, as the grain is in that case quite heated, and it will become too highly coloured before it is roasted through, if slowly finished. When it is of a fine, light, equal brown, which must be ascer- * We must refer the reader to Mr. Livermore, 30, Oxford-street, for this, as well as for the small French furnace, and other things which we have named, be- cause we have supplied him with the model, which we brought from abroad ; and which we have had used as we direct for several years. CHAP. XXVII.| COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c, sf - tained, until some little experience has been acquired, by sliding back the door of the cylinder, and looking at it occasionally towards the end of the process, spread it quickly upon a large ‘dish, and throw a folded cloth over it. Let it remain thus until it is quite cold; then put it into canisters or bottles, and exclude the air carefully from it. Mr. Webster, in his admirable Ency- clopedia of Domestic Economy,* says, “Mr. Donovan recom- mends that, instead of roasting the coffee in an atmosphere of its own steam, it should first be dried in an iron pan, over a very gentle fire, being constantly stirred until the colour becomes yellow; it is then to be pounded into coarse fragments, by no means too fine, each grain being divided into four or five parts only: it is then to be transferred to the roaster, and scorched to the proper degree.” This plan we have not tried, because we have found the other to answer quite well; though Mr. Donovan’s might nevertheless prove a very superior one. «A roaster of the form shown here may be purchased for about fourteen shillings. < TO MAKE COFFEE. It is more usual at the present day to filter than to boil coffee, but many persons still prefer the latter mode. The degree of strength which is to be given must of course depend on the taste of those for whom it is prepared ; but it should always be good when served to strangers, as a preference for weak coffee is very rare, and in many instances it would be peculiarly unacceptable to the drinkers, more especially so to those who have resided. much abroad, where this beverage is in general much better prepared than it is in England. An ounce of the berries, if recently roasted, and ground at the instant of using them, will make, with the addition of a * (Longman and Co.) This work contains much useful and valuable informas. tion on an infinity of subjects connected with Domestic Economy. o—~. 558 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. xxviI. pint of water, two breakfast - cupsful of sufficiently good coffee for common family use. It will be stronger if slowly filtered in what is called a perco- lator, or coffee-biggin, than if it be boiled. Press the powder closely down, measure the proper quantity of water into a;common coffee-pot, or small kettle, pour in suffi- cient to just wet the = coffee in the first in- Patent Percolator with Spirit-Lamp. stance, and then add sthe remainder slowly, keeping the water boiling all the time. Let it run quite through before the top of the percolator is lifted off, and serve it very hot with boiling milk or cream, or with both; or with boilmg milk and cold cream. ‘The propor- tion of coffee, after the first trial, can easily be increased or diminished at will. To make French breakfast-coffee, pour only a third as much of water on the powder, fill the cups two thirds with good new boiling milk, then add the coffee, which should be very strong. For the café noir served after dinner in all French families put less water still (this is the very essence of coffee, of which, however, not more than a small cup about two thirds filled, and highly sweetened with sugar in Jumps, is generally taken by each person), and serve it without cream or milk, or any accompaniment, except white sugar- candy in powder, or highly refined sugar in lumps. This is drank immediately after the dinner; in families of moderate rank, generally before they leave the table ; in more refined life, it is served in the drawing-room the instant dinner is ended; sometimes with liqueurs after it, but not invariably. - To boil coffee and refine it, put the necessary quantity of water into a pot which it will not fill by some inches; when it boils stir in the coffee ; for unless this is at once moistened, it re- — mains on the top and is liable to fly over. Give it one or two strong boils, then raise it from the fire, and simmer it for ten minutes only ; pour out a large cupful twice, hold it high over the coffee pot and pour it in again, then set it on the hob for CHAP. XXVII.] COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c. 559 ten minutes longer. It will be perfectly clear, unless mis- managed, without any other fining. Should more, however, be deemed necessary, a very small pinch of isinglass, or a clean egg- shell, with a little of the white adhering to it, is the best that can be used. (We cannot recommend the skin of any fish for the purpose.) If tried, with the same proportions by both the methods we have given, the reader will easily ascertain that which answers best. ever use mustard to fine coffee with. It is a barbarous custom of which we have heard foreigners who have been in England vehemently complain! Coffee, 2 ozs.; water, 1 quart. Filtered; or boiled 10 minutes; left to clear 10 minutes. BURNT COFFEE. (In France vulgarly called Gloria.) Malkse some coffee as strong and as clear as possible, sweeten it in the cup with white sugar almost to syrup, then pour brandy | on the top gently over a spoon; set fire to it with a lighted paper, and when the spirit is in part consumed, blow out the flame and drink the gloria quite hot. TO MAKE CHOCOLATE. (French Receipt.) An ounce of chocolate, if good, will be sufficient for one person. Rasp, and then boil it from five to ten minutes with about four tablespoonsful of water; when it is extremely smooth add nearly a pint of | new milk, give it another boil, stir it | well, or mill it, and serve it directly. | For water-chocolate use three quarters | of a pint of water instead of the milk, _ and send rich hot cream to table with | it. The taste must decide whether it | shall be made thicker or thinner. | Chocolate, 2 ozs.; water, quarter- | pint, or rather more; milk, 1} pint: 3 minute. | Obs—The general reader will understand the use of the _ chocolate-mill shown in the engraving with the pot; but to the | uninitiated it may be as well to observe, that it is worked quickly | round between both hands to give a fine froth to the chocolate. _ It also serves in lieu of a whisk for working creams, or jellies, toa froth or whip. i ee 560 MODERN COOKERY. [[CHAP. XXVIII. CHAPTER XXVIII. BREAD. TO PURIFY YEAST FOR BREAD OR CAKES, Tue yeast procured from a public brewery is often so extremely bitter that it can only be rendered fit for use by frequent washings, and after these even it should be cautiously employed. Mix it, when first brought in, with a large quantity of cold water, and set it by until the following morning in a cool place; then drain off the water, and stir the yeast up well with as much more of fresh: it must again stand several hours before the water can be poured clear from it. By changing this daily in winter, and both night and morning in very hot weather, the yeast may be preserved fit for use much longer than it would otherwise be; and should it ferment rather less freely after a time, a small portion of brown sugar stirred to it before the bread is made will quite restore its strength. German yeast, imported in a solid state, is now much sold in London, and answers, we are told, remarkably well; but we have not ourselves had an opportunity of proving it. THE OVEN. A brick oven, heated with wood, is far superior to any other for baking bread, as well as for most other purposes, the heat of an iron one being much less easy to. regulate; but those attached to kitchen ranges are convenient, for the facility they CHAP. XXVIII. ] BREAD. 561 afford at all times of baking in a small way. They are, however, we should say, generally far from economical as regards the proportion of fuel required to heat them; and the same objec- tion may be made to the American oven also; the strong smell, too, emitted from the iron ones, and diffused often entirely through a house, is peculiarly unpleasant. A brick oven should be well heated with faggot wood, or with a faggot, and two or three solid logs;.and after it is cleared, the door should be closely shut for quite half an hour before the baking com- mences: the heat will then be well sustained for a succession of bread, pies, cakes, and small pastry. . The servant who habitu- ally attends at an oven will soon become acquainted with the precise quantity of fuel which it requires, and all other peculiarities which may be connected with it. In general more time must be allowed to bake any thing in an iron, than in a brick oven. TO MAKE BREAD. Every cook, and we might almost say, every female servant, ought to be perfectly acquainted with the mode of making good household bread ; and skill in preparing other articles of food is poor compensation for ignorance upon this one essential point. A very slight degree of attention, moreover, will enable any person to succeed in it, and there is, consequently, small excuse for those who neglect to render themselves properly acquainted with the process. The best flour will generally be found the cheapest in the end: it should be purchased if possible from a miller who can be depended on for supplying it good and unadulterated. Let it be stored always in a dry place, as damp is very injurious to it. If kept habitually in a chest, this should be entire.y emptied at intervals, cleaned with great nicety, and not filled again until it is perfectly dry. The kneading trough, tub, or pan, with every thing else indeed used for the bread, or for the oven, should at all times be kept scrupulously clean. The yeast of mild home-brewed beer¢is the best that can be procured, and requires no purifying; but it should be strained through a hair-sieve after it is mixed with a portion of warm milk, or water, before it is added to the flour. Very rapid fermentation, which is produced by using more than the necessary quantity of yeast, is by no means advan- tageous to the bread, which not only becomes dry and stale from it, but is of less sweet and pleasant flavour than that which is more slowly fermented. In winter it should always be 00 562 MODERN COOKERY. [[CHAP. XXVIII. placed near the fire, but never sufficiently so to become hot; nor should it ever be allowed to become perfectly cold. Put — half a bushel (more or less, according to the consumption of the family) of flour into the kneading tub or trough, and hollow it well in the middle; dilute a pint of yeast as it is brought from the brewery, or half the quantity if it has been washed and rendered solid, with four quarts or more of lukewarm milk or water, or a mixture of the two; stir into it, from the surround- ing part, with a wooden spoon, as much flour as will make a thick batter; throw a little over it, and leave this, which is called the leaven, to rise before proceeding further. In about ‘ an hour it will have swollen considerably, and have burst through the coating of flour on the top; then pour in as much more warm liquid as will convert the whole, with good kneading, and this should not be spared, into a firm dough, of which the surface should be entirely free from lumps or - crumbs. Throw a cloth over, and let it remain until it has risen very much a second time, which will be in an hour, or something more, if the batch be large. Then work it lightly up, and mould it into loaves of from two to three pounds weight; send them directly to a well heated oven, and bake them from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters. Flour, } bushel; salt (when it is liked), 4 to 6 ozs.; yeast, 1 pint unwashed, or } pint if purified ; milk, or water, 2 quarts: 1 to 1} hour. Additional liquid as needed. BORDYKE BREAD. (Author's Receipt.) Mix with a gallon of flour a large teaspoonful of fine salt, make a hollow in the centre, and pour in two tablespoonsful of solid, well-purified yeast, gradually diluted with about two pints and a half of milk, and work it into a thick batter with » the surrounding flour; dust a little on the top, and leave it to rise from an hour to an hour and a half; then knead it up ~ with as much more warm skimmed milk as will render it quite firm and smooth without being very stiff; let it rise another hour, and divide it into three loaves; put them into square tins slightly buttered, or into round baking pans, and bake them about an hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven. The dough can be formed into household loaves if preferred, and sent to the oven in the usual way. When a finer and ,more spongy kind of bread is required for immediate eating, substitute new milk for skimmed, dissolve in it about an ounce of butter, leave it more liquid when the sponge is set, and CHAP. XXVIII. | BREAD. 563 let the whole be lightly kneaded into a lithe dough: the bread thus made will be excellent when new, and for a day or iad it is baked, but it will become dry sooner than the other. Flour, 1 gallon ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; skimmed milk, 23 pints: to rise from 1 to 1} hour. Additional milk, 1 to 2 pints: to rise 1 hour. 3 loaves, baked 14 hour. Obs. 1.—A few spoonsful of cream will wonderfully improve either of the above receipts, and sweet butter-milk, substituted. for the other, will give to the bread the shortness of a cake: we would particularly recommend it for trial when it can be procured, Obs. 2.—For an invalid, especially when the digestion is im- paired, butter should be altogether omitted from the bread; and eggs, which are often added to the finer sorts of rolls, are better avoided also. Obs. 3.—We must repeat our caution against milk or water of a scalding heat being mixed ever with the yeast: it should be warm, rather more so than when taken from the cow, but not much. BROWN BREAD. Make this by either of the foregoing receipts, with meal, as it is called (that is to say, the wheat just as it is ground, either separated from the coarse bran or not, according to the quality of the bread required), instead of flour. It ferments easily, and does not therefore require a very full proportion of yeast ; and it absorbs more moisture than the flour; it also retains it longer, if properly baked. The loaves should be well soaked in the oven, but not over dried. Obs.—The best bread we ever tasted was made in great part with rye-flour : this was in a provincial town in France. POTATO BREAD. One pound of good mealy potatoes, steamed or boiled very dry, in the ordinary way, or prepared by Captain Kater’s receipt (see Chapter XV.), and rubbed quite hot, through a coarse sieve, into a couple of pounds of flour, with which they should be well mixed, will produce excellent bread, which will remain moist much longer than wheaten bread made as usual. The yeast should be added immediately after the potatoes. An ounce or two of butter, an egg and some new milk, will conyert this bread into yery superior rolls. 564 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP, XXVIII. COCOA-NUT BREAD. Hither mix with the flour the same proportion of the nut, finely grated, as for the biscuit receipt, and then proceed as for other bread, or merely use very strongly flavoured cocoa-nut milk to make the dough: the bread will be excellent. GENEVA ROLLS. Break down very small three ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of flour; add a little salt, and set the sponge with a large tablespoonful of solid yeast, mixed with a pint of new milk, and a tablespoonful or more of strong saffron water ; let it rise for a full hour, then stir to a couple of well-beaten eggs as much hot milk as will render them lukewarm, and wet the rolls with them to a light, lithe dough; leave it from half to three quarters of an hour longer, mould it into small rolls, brush them with beaten yolk of egg, and bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour. The addition of six ounces of good sugar, three of butter, halfa pound or more of currants, the grated rind of a large lemon, and a couple of ounces of can- died orange-rind, will convert these into excellent buns. When the flavour of the saffron is not liked, omit it altogether. Only so muck should be used at any time as will give a rich colour to the bread. Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 ozs. ; solid yeast, 1 large tablespoonful (saffron, 1 teaspoonful; water, less than a quarter pint); new milk, 1 pint: 1 hour, or more. 2 eggs, more milk: 3 hour: baked 20 to 30 minutes. RUSKS. Break very small six ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of fine dry flour, and mix them into a lithe paste, with two tablespoonsful of mild beer yeast, three well beaten eggs, and nearly helfa pint of warm new milk. When it has risen to its full height knead it smooth, and make it into very small loaves or thick cakes, cut with a round cake-cutter; place them on a floured tin, and let them stand in a warm place, to prove, from ten to twenty minutes before*they are set into the oven. Bake them about a quarter of an hour; divide them while they are still warm, and put them into a very slow oven to dry. When they are crisp quite through they are done. Four teaspoonsful of sifted sugar must be added when sweet- ened rusks are preferred. Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 6 ozs.; yeast, 2 tablespoonsful; eggs, new milk, nearly half a pint: baked 4 hour. CHAP. XXVIII. | BREAD. 565 CRUSTS TO SERVE WITH CHEESE. Take a half-baked loaf from the oven, and tear it into small rough bits with a couple of forks; lay these on a tin, and put them back into the oven for ten minutes. If a light loaf be made for the purpose, with a couple of ounces of butter and new milk they will quite resemble rusks. A sweet light cake pulled apart in the same manner is likewise very good. EXCELLENT BREAD CRUST FOR HOT PIES OR TARTS. Roll out square a pound of good white dough which is just ready for the oven; make four ounces of butter into a ball, put it in the centre of the paste, fold the corners well over it, and roll it out lightly two or three times, folding the ends always into the centre. Use it immediately. We have had this paste tried only with the Bordyke bread of page 562, which was made entirely with milk, and we have found it extremely good ; but an additional ounce of butter, or even more, may be required with common dough. Meat well seasoned, and folded in it in the form of a turnover, and baked about half an hour answers well. White bread dough, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 Ib., or more; little salt. ENGLISH BRIOCHE, AND BRIOCHE-RUSKS. Mix into a very light dough half a pound of flour with an ounce of purified yeast, and five or six tablespoonsful of warm milk or cream. While this is rising, make a pound of flour into rich cream-crust, or the finest puff-paste, by the receipt for either in Chapter XVI.; and when the leaven is double its original size, mingle them perfectly as directed for brioche paste, page 339, and leave the mass to rise for four or five hours; then mould it lightly into small brioche-shapes, or-roll it an inch thick, and form it into rusks with a round paste- cutter. Wash the tops with beaten egg, and bake them in a somewhat brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes, or until they are well baked and well coloured. The rusks must be divided, and put again into the oven when the heat has subsided a little, and left in it until they are very crisp, and equally browned. The whole -of the paste may be baked in a round cake-mould, and served in the same manner as the Solimemne of page 519. Flour, 4 1b; yeast, 1 oz.; milk or cream, 5 or 6 tablespoons- ful: 3} to 3 hour. Cream, or puff-paste: flour, 1 lb.; other ingredients as given in receipt: 4 to 5 hours, Baked, in small shapes, 10 to 15 minutes; in large, 1 to 1} hour. APPENDIX. CHERRY-BRANDY. (Tappington Everard Recezpt.) ; Fill to about two thirds of their depth, some wide-necked bottles with the small cherries called in the markets brandy- blacks; pour in sufficient sifted sugar to fill up more than half of the remaining space, and then as much good French brandy as will cover the fruit, and reach to the necks of the bottles. Cork them securely, and let them stand for two months before they are opened: the liqueur poured from the cherries will be excel- lent, and the fruit itself very good. BRANDIED MORELLA CHERRIES. Let the cherries be ripe, freshly gathered, and the finest that can be had; cut off half the length of the stalks, and drop them gently into clean dry quart bottles with wide necks; leave in each sufficient space for four ounces of pounded white sugar candy (or of brown, if better liked) ; fill them up entirely with the best French brandy, and cork them closely : the fruit will not shrivel if thus prepared. A few cherry, or apricot kernels, or a small portion of cinnamon, can be added when they are considered an improvement. PEACHES IN BRANDY. (Rotterdam Receipt.) Prepare and stew some fine full-flavoured peaches by the receipt of page 430, but with two ounces more of sugar to the half pint of water; when they are tender put them, with their syrup, into glass or new stone jars, which they should only half fill; and when they are quite cold pour in white, or very pale, French brandy to within an inch and a half of the brims: a few peach or apricot kernels can be added to them. The jars must be corked down. APPENDIX. 567 e CHANTILLY BASKET. The form of these is shown by the plate at page 444, but they can be varied to the taste, and made with cakes of different sizes. it is essential to keep them very dry after they are fastened together, and, as we have before observed, they should be filled only the instant before they are sent to table. They may first be lined with wafer-paper: a pint and a half of cream, when flavoured and whisked, will fill a large basket of this kind. . TO MAKE ORANGE BASKETS FOR JELLY. The oranges for these should be large. First, mark the handle of the basket evenly across the stalk end of the fruit with the back of a small knife, or with a silver one, and let it be quite half an inch wide; then trace a line across from one end of the _handle to the other, exactly in the middle of the orange, and when the other side is marked in the same way, cut just through the rind with the point of a pen knife, being careful not to pierce the fruit itself; next, with a tea or dessert spoon, take off the quartered rind on either side of the handle; pass a penknife under the handle itself; work the point of a spoon gently be- tween the orange and the basket, until they are separated in every part; then take the fruit between the thumb and fingers, and press it carefully out through one of the spaces on either side of the handle. STRAWBERRY TARTLETS. (GOOD.) Take a full half-pint of freshly-gathered strawberries, with- out the stalks: first crush, and then mix them with two ounces and a half of powdered sugar; stir to them, by degrees, four well-whisked eggs, beat the mixture a little, and put it into pattypans lined with fine paste: they should be only three parts filled. Bake the tartlets from ten to twelve minutes. RASPBERRY PUFFS. Roll out thin some fine puff-paste, cut it in rounds or squares of equal size, lay some raspberry jam into each, moisten the edges of the paste, fold and press them together, and bake the putts from fifteen to eighteen minutes. Strawberry, or any other jam will serve for them equally well. CREAMED TARTLETS. Line some pattypans with very fine paste, and put into each 568 APPENDIX. a layer of apricot jam; on this pour some thick boiled custard, | or the pastry cream of page 361. Whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a solid froth, mix a couple of tablespoonsful of sifted sugar with them, lay this icing lightly over the tartlets, and bake them in a gentle oven from twenty to thirty minutes, unless they should be very small, when less time must be allowed for them. NORFOLK CHEESE CAKES. Beat well together until they are perfectly smooth, three quarters of a pound of cheese curd and five ounces of butter ; add to them two ounces of almonds, of which five or six should be bitter ones, four ounces of sifted sugar, four eggs, leaving out two of the whites, three spoonsful of cream, two of brandy, a little mace or nutmeg, and if candied peel and currants are considered an improvement, one ounce and a half of the first, and three of the latter. Bake the cheese-cakes, in pattypans lined with paste, for twenty minutes: the curd may be passed through a sieve before it is used. Curd, 3 lb.; butter, 5 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; almonds, 2 ozs. ; egos, 4 yolks, 2 whites; cream, 3 tablespoonsful; brandy, 2; little mace or nutmeg; currants (if added), 3 ozs.; candied orange or lemon-rind, 1} oz. : 20 minutes. STORE MIXTURE FOR LEMON TARTLETS, Which will remain good for a year or two. Put into a very clean stewpan or saucepan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a pound of good sugar, beaten to powder, the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of four, whisked and strained, the grated rinds of two large lemons, and the strained juice of three ; and keep the whole stirred over a gentle fire until it is as thick as good cream. When it is quite cold, pour it into small jars or pans, and tie paper over it. When required for table, put it into pattypans lined with thin puff-paste, and bake the cheesecakes from fifteen to eighteen minutes. This is a very convenient store, especially quite in the country, where it is sometimes difficult to obtain the fresh fruit. The proportions may be varied so that the lemon shall predominate more or less, according to the taste; and the rinds may be rasped on part of the sugar before it is pounded; or they may be boiled tender, and beaten to. a paste previously to being mixed with the other ingredients: but the receipt, as we haye given it, is exceedingly good. ie 4 APPENDIX. 569 Fresh butter, 3 Ib.; sugar, 1 lb.; yolks 6 eggs; whites 4; rinds 2 lemons; juice of 3. PUFFS A LA COLBURN. (EXTREMELY GOOD.) Make first a good pastry cream (see Créme Patissiére, page 337), with three quarters of a pint of cream, and as much new milk, or with either by itself,-as may be most convenient ; though a portion of the former is desirable, as these puffs should be rich, though very light. After having mixed the ingredients in the usual way, and thickened them, add to the créme patis- stére three ounces of fresh butter cut small or clarified, and four of pounded sugar. When the mixture is nearly cold stir to it four ounces of ratafias crusted to powder, and add a little sugar which has been rasped on a citron, or on a Seville orange; — or in lieu of this, flavour the milk or cream in the first instance with from a third to half of a pod of vanilla, as directed for Nes- selrodde cream (page 441); then strain, and bring it again to a full boil before it is poured to the flour and eggs. Make a. delicate cream crust (see page 361), roll it very thin in rounds of equal size, and six inches in diameter; lay in some of the cream; moisten the edges; fold and press them together, very securely; ice the tops lightly with the whites of a couple of eggs beaten to snow, and mixed with three ounces of sugar; strew over them rose-coloured almonds (see page 513), not very finely chopped, and bake them in a moderate oven from twenty- . five to thirty minutes. For variety, pistachio-nuts, merely blanched and sliced, may be sprinkled over them, instead of almonds, and will have a very good effect. RICE A LA VATHEK. Blanch, and then pound carefully to the smoothest possible paste four ounces of fine Jordan almonds and half a dozen bitter ones, moistening them with a few drops of water to prevent their oiling. Stir tothem by slow degrees a quart of boiling milk, which should be new, wring it again closely from them through a thin cloth, which will absorb it less than a tammy, and set it aside to cool. Wash thoroughly, and afterwards soak for about ten minutes, seven 570 APPENDIX, ounces of Carolina rice, drain it well from the water, pour the almond-milk upon it, bring it very slowly to boil, and simmer it softly until it is tolerably tender, taking the precaution to stir it often at first that it may not gather into lumps nor stick to the pan. Add to it a couple of ounces of fresh butter and four of pounded sugar, and when it is perfectly tender and dry, proceed with it exactly as for Gabrielle’s pudding, page 403 ; but in moulding the rice press it closely and evenly in, and hollow it in the centre, leaving the edge an inch thick in every part, that it may not break in the oven. The inside must be slightly brushed with butter before it is baked, to prevent its becoming too dry, but a morsel of white blotting paper will take up any portion that may remain in it. When it is ready to serve, pour into it a large jarful of apricot jam, and send it immediately to table. If well made it is delicious. It may be served cold, (though this is less usual,) and decorated with small thin leaves of citron-rind, cut with a minute paste-cutter. — The same preparation may be used also for Gabrielle’s pud- ding, and filled with hot preserved fruit, the rice scooped from the inside being mixed with the syrup, CROUSTADES, OR SWEET PATTIES A LA MINUTE. Slice some firm stale bread, about half an inch thick, and with a small round or fluted paste-cutter take from it as many croustades as will be required for a dish; mark the centres with a smaller cutter, leaving a rim of equal width all round; scoop out the insides, and fry them in good butter a pale brown; drain and dry them well, and fill them with hot apple marma- lade, or with any warm preserve. The croustades may like- . wise be filled with a good mince of mutton, hare, or any brown meat, and served in the first course. To make Dresden patties, or croustades, pare the crust neatly from one or two French rolls, slice off the ends, and divide the remainder into as many patties as the size Of the rolls will allow; hollow them in the centre, dip them into milk or thin cream, and lay them on a drainer over a dish; pour a spoonful or two more of milk over them at intervals, but not sufficient to cause them to break; brush them with egg, rasp the c1ust of the rolls over them, fry and drain them well, fill them with a good mince, or with stewed mushrooms or oysters, and serve them very hot upon a napkin ; they may be filled for the second course with fruit or preserve. ‘They are very good pt ee * is APPENDIX. 571 CRISPED POTATOES, OR POTATO-RIBBONS. (To serve with Cheese.) Wash well, and wipe, some potatoes of good flavour; cut them up into slices of from half to a whole inch thick, free them from the skins, and then pare them round and round in very thin, and very long ribbons, like the dressed cucumber of page 312. Lay them into a pan of cold water, and half an hour before they are wanted for table lift them on to a sieve that they may be well drained. Fry them in very hot lard, butter, or clarified dripping, of the purest quality, until they are quite crisp and lightly browned; drain and dry them on a soft cloth, pile them in a hot dish, strew over them a mixed seasoning of salt and cayenne in fine powder, and serve them without delay. For the second course, dress them in the same manner, but omit the cayenne. Five or six minutes will fry | them. Some cooks tie them in fanciful bows and knots, before they are laid into the water. SAVOURY TOASTS. Cut some slices of bread free from crust, about half an inch thick, and two inches and a half square ; butter the tops thickly, spread a little mustard on them, and then cover them with a deep layer of grated cheese and ham seasoned rather highly with cayenne ; fry them in good butter, but do not turn them — in the pan; lift them out, and place them in a Dutch oven for rae or four minutes to dissolve the cheese: serve them very ot. To 4 tablespoonsful of grated English cheese, an equal portion of very finely minced, or grated ham ; but of Parmesan, or Gruyére, 6 tablespoonsful. CROQUETTES OF SHRIMPS. (ENTREE.) Shell quickly from a quart to three pints of fine fresh brown shrimps; chop them a little with a very sharp knife; put four ounces of them into a mortar and pound them to the smoothest paste, with the addition of an ounce and a half of fresh butter, a seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, and a very small quantity of salt. Pour boiling, on an ounce and a half of the crumb of a stale loaf sliced thin, sufficient milk or cream to just cover it; let it soak for a quarter of an hour, then turn it into a small saucepan, and stir it over a clear and gentle fire until it forms a quite dry paste; let it become cold; 572 APPENDIX. then add it to, and pound it with, the shrimps, and when they are perfectly blended mix well with them the unbeaten yolks of two eggs, and the whisked white of one. Set the mixture aside in a cool place, for a short time to become firm; then dust a little flour upon the fingers and mould the croquettes smoothly into small balls, or olive- -shapes; roll them gently in egg, and in the finest bread-crumbs, and fry them from five to seven minutes, or give them first two minutes boil, drain them on a sieve, and when they are again quite cold, egg, crumb, and fry them: they are, we think, rather firmer with the previous oaching. Shelled shrimps, 4 ozs.; fresh butter, 14 oz. (2 ozs. if the paste will not be too moist with it); mace, nutmeg, and ca- yenne mixed, 1 large saltspoonful; Wttle salt; yolks 2 eggs, white of 1: fried 5 to 7 minutes, or poached 2 minutes, fried 4 to 5. Obs.—These proportions are only sufficient for a very small dish of the croquettes, which are very delicate. TRUFFLED OMLET. (ENTREMETS.) Whisk very lightly half'a dozen fresh eggs, throw in a sea- soning of cayenne, in very fine powder, and a large saltspoon- ful of salt; dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a ti ng pan, and when it begins to boil, throw into the eggs a ae earplc of large bottled truffles * minced very small, then proceed - as for a common omlet (see page 410). If fresh truffles be used, they must be stewed tender in a little butter after they are minced before they are stirred to the eggs. A POIVRADE SAUCE. Flavour some rich brown gravy highly with ham and oe lots, by the receipt for Hspagnole (page 88), and add to it, before it is dished, a high seasoning of pepper, and half a wine- glassful of vinegar. AN ENGLISH POIVRADE SAUCE. Mince a couple of ounces of mild onions, and take as. much * The young housekeeper must be warned that the bottled truffles when once opened must be used immediately ; ; or weil drained from the liquid and thrown into ciarified butter, stewed in it for a minute or two, put into clean jars, and perfectly covered with the butter, which should be poured on them free from any liquid they may have yielded. ‘They will also keep any length of time if minced and potted in the butter. As they are expensive, so far as regards their first cost, though a small quantity will impart a high degree of savour, all pre- caution should be taken against their being spoiled or wasted. APPENDIX: ae 56 lean of ham cut into small dice, and either lightly fry them or stew them gently in a small slice of butter, until they are equally coloured; stir in half a teaspoonful of flour, and then pour to them by degrees half a pint of boiling broth or brown gravy; boil the whole softly for half an hour, strain, skim, and re-heat it with pepper and vinegar as above. THE POETS RECEIPT FOR SALAD.* “ Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve Unwonted softness to the salad give; Of mordent mustard, add a single spoon, Distrust the condiment which bites so soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt ; Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And once with vinegar, procured from town ; True flavour needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs; © Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And lastly, in the favour’d compound toss A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce: ) Then, though green turtle fail, though venison’s tough, And ham and turkey are not boiled enough, Serenely full, the epicure may say— Fate cannot harm me,—TI have dined to-day.” Two well-boiled potatoes, passed through a sieve; a tea- spoonful of mustard ; two teaspoonsful of salt; one of essence of anchovy; about a quarter of a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped onions, well bruised into the mixture; three tablespoonsful of oil ; one of vinegar ; the yolks of two eggs, hard boiled. Stir up the salad immediately before dinner, and stir it up thoroughly. “ N. B.—As this salad is the result of great experience and re- flection, it is hoped young salad makers will not attempt to make any improvements upon it.” hy LOBSTER SALAD. (ENTREMETS.) First, prepare a sauce with the coral of a hen lobster, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, and very gradually mixed with a * Note. This receipt, though long privately circulated amongst the friends. and acquaintance of its highly distinguished and regretted author, now (with permis- sion) appears for the first time in print. We could not venture to deviate by a word from the original, but we would suggest, that the mixture forms almost a substitute for salad, instead of a mere dressing. It is, however, an admirable compound for those to whom the slight flavouring of onion is not an objection. ¥ f 574 APPENDIX. good mayonnaise, remoulade, or English salad-dressing. (See pages 111—113.) Next, half fill the bowl or more with small salad herbs, or with young lettuces finely shred, and arrange upon them spirally, or in a chain, alternate slices of the flesh of — a large lobster, or of two middling-sized ones, and some hard boiled eggs cut thin and evenly. Leave a space in the centre, pour in the sauce, heap lightly some small salad on the top, and send the dish immediately to table. The coral of a second ~ lobster may be intermingled with the white flesh of the fish with very good efiect ; and the foreed eggs of page 424 may be placed at intervais round the edge of the bowl as a decoration, and an excellent accompaniment as well. Another mode of making the salad is to lay the split bodies of the fish round the bowl, and the claws, freed carefully from the shells, arranged high in the centre on the herbs ; the soft part of the bodies may be mixed with the sauce when it is liked; but the colour wili not then be good. Obs.—The addition of cucumber in ribbons (see Author’s — Receipt, page 312), laid lightly round it, is always an agreeable one to lobster salad: they may previously be sauced, and then drained from their dressing a little. ‘GENTLE CRITIC’S TOURTE A LA CREME, To make this kind of tart, (which is both _ delicate eating, and - {=== of very tasteful ap- ee pearance, ) in the best and easiest manner, ad ? a couple of fluted Form of Tourte. cutters should be had, like those described in the receipt for a vol-au-vent, page 347. Roll off some good puff, or cream-crust to about the third of an inch thick, and with the larger tin shape, cut two portions of equal size ; press the small cutter quite through the second of these, and gently disengage it from the border of paste which it will form; then, after having moistened the under side of this equally all round, lay it very evenly upon the other part of the paste and press it with the blade of a knife just sufficiently to make it adhere; set the tart into a mo- derate oven and when it appears perfectly baked, which it will usually be in from twenty to thirty minutes, draw it out, and fill it with apricot, or green-gage jam, or with any other rich preserve; let it become quite cold, and then heap lightly over o APPENDIX. 575 it some well-drained whipped cream, which has been slightly flavoured and sweetened. The edge may be glazed when it is first taken from the oven in the same manner as the vols-au- vents ala Howitt ; or the whipped cream being omitted, small leaves of almond-paste may be laid round it, and others over the preserve; or it may be iced with a white icing, and orna- mented with rose-coloured grains of sugar; and to convert it into an excellent enirée (or first course dish) it may be filled with stewed oysters in a rich white sauce, or with fricasseed lobster, or scallops of fowl; but the sauce of either must be thick. Obs.—The fluted cutters * which we have recommended for it are not indispensable in making this tourte, which can be shaped with plain ones, or neatly trimmed, on an emergency, to the size of the dish in which it is to be served, with a knife, ‘the border being also evenly cut with one. A PEAS PUDDING. ,S (To serve with boiled pork.) Separate carefully from a pint of good mellow split peas, all that are worm-eaten ; wash the remainder well, and soak them for a night in plenty of soft water. The following day tie them up in a thick pudding cloth, giving them room to swell, cover them well with cold soft water and boil them. gently from two hours to two and a half: if they are not then quite tender, they are of bad quality, and cannot be rendered so. Lift them into a cullender, untie the cloth, and crush them to a paste with a wooden spoon, stir in a good slice of butter, and a seasoning © of pepper and salt, tie them up again very tight, and boil them for half an hour; turn the pudding gently into a dish that it may not break, and serve it as hot as possible. This is the com- mon old-fashioned mode of preparing a peas pudding, and many persons prefer it to the more modern one which follows. Soak, and boil the peas as above, drain the water well from them before the cloth is untied, rub them through a cullender or sieve, mix the seasoning and the butter thoroughly with them, then add gradually a couple, or even three well whisked eggs, tie the mixture tightly and closely in a floured cloth, and boil it for one hour. . Good split peas, 1 pint; soaked in soft water 1 night. Boiled 2 to 2: hours. Butter, 1 oz.: salt, pepper: boil again 20 to 30 minutes. Or: butter, 14 0z.; eggs, 2 or 3: boiled 1 hour. * These are so generally useful in making pastry, and forming croustades, &c., that the cook should not be without them. ~ 576 APPENDIX. Obs.—When soft water cannot be had, a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda must be stirred into that in which the peas are boiled. They must have room to swell or they will be — hard; but if too much be given them they will be watery and it will be difficult to convert them into a pudding at all.” THE POOR CURATE’S PUDDING. This is but a variation of the pudding, a la Paysanne of page 408, but as it is both good and inexpensive it may be acceptable to some of our readers. Wash, wipe, and pare some quickly grown rhubarb-stalks, cut them into short lengths, and put a layer of them into a deep dish with a spoonful or two of Lisbon sugar ; cover these evenly with part of a penny roll sliced thin ; add another thick layer of fruit and sugar, then one of bread, then another of the rhubarb; cover this last with a deep layer of fine bread-crumbs well mingled with about a tablespoonful of sugar, pour a little clarified butter over them, and send the pudding to a brisk oven. From thirty to forty minutes will bake it. Good boiling apples sliced, sweetened, and flavoured with nutmeg or grated lemon-rind, and covered with well but- tered slices of bread, make an excellent pudding of this kind. THE CAVALIER’S BROIL. Half roast or stew, or parboil, a small, or moderate-sized shoulder. of mutton; lift it into a hot dish, score it on both sides down to the bone, season it well with fine salt and cayenne or pepper, and finish cooking it upon the gridiron over a brisk fire. Skim the fat from any gravy that may have flowed from it, and keep the dish which contains it quite hot to receive the joint again. Warm a cupful of pickled mushrooms, let a part of them be minced, and strew them over the broil when it is ready to be served; arrange the remainder round it, andsend it instantly to table. The reader will scarcely need to be told that this is a most excellent dish. VEAL GOOSE. — (City of London receipt.) “This is made with the upper part of the flank of a loin of veal, (or sometimes of the fillet) covered with a stuffing of sage and onions, then rolled, and roasted or broiled. It is served with brown gravy and apple sauce, is extremely savoury, and has many admirers.” We transcribe the exact receipt for this dish, which was procured for us from a house in the city, which is famed for it. We had it tested with the skin of the best end APPENDIX. es vie of a fine neck of veal, from which it was pared with something _ more than an-inch depth of the flesh adhering to it. It was roasted one hour, and answered extremely well. It is a conve- nient mode of dressing the flank of the veal when the fiesh is required free from skin and bone for other purposes. TO DRESS REIN DEER TONGUES. These, from being highly dried, require long soaking, but they are very finely flavoured, and excellent eating if well dressed. Lay them into plenty of water for a night, and on the following day take them out, for three or four hours, then lay them again into fresh water, and towards evening let them be for some hours longer exposed to the air. At night lay them into more fresh water, take them out in the morning, scrape and clean them well, and they will be ready to boil. Cover them well with cold water, bring them gently to a boil, clear off the scum perfectly as it rises, and simmer them for about two hours, These tongues may be purchased at any good Italian warehouse. CURRANT SHRUB. ' Dissolve in a couple of quarts of white, black, or red currant juice, a pound and a half of sugar of the best quality ; then stir to them, a gallon of old Jamaica rum, and stop the vessel closely; leave it for a night, and the foliowing day filter the shrub through blotting paper, and pour it into clean, dry bottles, which should be well corked. It may be kept for any length of time. SAUSAGE SOUP. (Swedish Receipt.) Strip away the decayed leaves from a couple of moderate- sized winter cabbages, or savoys, cut out the stalks, wash and soak the vegetables well, and slice them very thin into a pan of spring water; drain them on a sieve, or in a large cullender, and drop them into three quarts of boiling beef-broth, or soup ; add a couple of pounds of sausages in links, and boil the whole gently for half an hour; before it is served, throw in a good seasoning of black pepper, and as much salt as may be required. Prick the sausages before they are put into the soup to prevent their bursting. Mutton or veal broth may be used for this soup instead of bouillon. , Paw APPENDIX: cr a2 ie) CAL¥F’S LIVER STOVED, OB STEWED. From three to four pounds of the best part of the liver will be sufficient for a dish of moderate size. First lard it quite through by the directions of page 166, with large lardoons, rolled in a seasoning of spice, and of savoury herbs very finely minced; then lay it into a stewpan or saucepan just fitted to its size, and pour in about half a pint of broth or gravy; heat it very gently, and throw in, when it begins to simmer, a sliced carrot, a small onion cut in two, a small bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace; stew the liver as softly as possible over a very slow fire from two hours and a half to three hours; thicken the gravy with a little brown roux (see page 96), or with a dessert- spoonful of browned flour; add a couple of glasses of white wine, and a little spice if needed, and serve it very hot, after having taken out the herbs and vegetables. The liver may be stewed without being larded; it may like- wise be browned all over in a carefully made roux, before the gravy is poured to it: this must then be made to boil, and be added in small portions, the stewpan being well shaken round as each is thrownin. The wine can be altogether omitted ; or a wineglassful of port, mixed with a little lemon-juice, may take the place of sherry. After the liver has been wiped very dry, minced herbs may be strewed thickly over it before it is laid into the stewpan ; and it may be served in its own gravy, or with a sauce piquante. Liver, 3 to 4 lbs.: 2 to 3 hours. SUGAR-GLAZINGS, AND ICINGS, (For Fine Pastry and Cakes.) The clear glazing which resembles barley sugar, and which requires to be as carefully guarded from damp, is given by just dipping the surface of the pastry into liquid caramel (see page 553); or by sifting sugar thickly over it directly it is drawn from the oven, and melting it down with a salamander, or red- hot shovel held closely over it; or by setting it again into an oven sufficiently heated to dissolve the sugar ; though this latter method is not so well, as there is danger from it of the crust being scorched. To make a fine white or coloured icing, whisk, as directed at page 514, the whites of a couple of fresh eggs to a © solid froth, then, with a wooden spoon or spatula, mix gradually with them eight ounces of the best sugar, which has been dried, and sifted through a fine sieve; work them together for a APPENDIX. 579 minute or two, and add less than a teaspoonful of strained lemon-juice; spread it evenly over the cake or pastry, and dry it very gently indeed, either in a quite cool oven, or in a meat screen placed before the fire. From the difference in the size of eggs, a little more or less of sugar may be required for this icing. It may be coloured with a very few drops of prepared cochineal, or of spinage-juice, to give it a rose, or pale green tint. Whites of eggs beaten to snow, 2; sugar, 8 ozs.; lemon- juice, small teaspoonful. TO DRESS AND TO CHOOSE MACCARONI, AND OTHER ITALIAN PASTES. After careful and repeated trial of different modes of dress- ing various kinds of maccaroni, we find that in preparing them with Parmesan cheese, unmixed with any of a more mellow nature, there is always a chance of failure, from its tendency, which we have elsewhere noticed, to gather into lumps; we would therefore recommend the inexperienced reader to sub- stitute for it in part, or altogether, any finely flavoured English cheese ; and the better to ensure its blending smoothly with the other ingredients (when neither white, nor any other thickened sauce is used with it), to dissolve the butter, and to stir to it a small teaspoonful of flour, before any liquid is added, then care~ fully to mix with it the cream or gravy, as directed for Sauce Tournée, page 96, and to give this a boil before the maccaroni and cheese are added: if gently tossed as these become hot, the whole will be smooth, and the cheese will adhere properly to the paste. The Neapolitan maccaroni, of which the pipes are large, and somewhat thin, should be selected always for the table in preference to the Genoa, which is less in size, but more substantial, and therefore better suited to the formation of the various fanciful timbales, for which it is usually chosen. We have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks. We have already noticed the ribbon maccaroni (or /azanges), which is very good, and quickly boiled; but we have not mentioned the maccaroncint, which, though not much larger than a straw, requires more time to render it soft. ‘The Naples vermicelli, which is much larger than any other, may be dressed like maccaroni: it is also preferable to the smaller kind for soups. All these pastes should be of a yellowish 580 APPENDIX. colour, and by no means white. It is desirable to purchase them at a good foreign warehouse, from which they will usually be supplied of first-rate quality. . Naples maccaroni, to boil nearly or quite, # hour; Genoa maccaroni, nearly 1 hour, sometimes longer; maccaroncini, 20 to 25 minutes; Naples vermicelli, about 20 minutes. Obs.—The time named here is for boiling the various pastes in water: in milk or soup it will vary somewhat from this. VENETIAN CAKE, OR CAKES. (Super-excellent.) Take of fine Jordan almonds, blanched and well dried at the mouth of a cool oven, or in a sunny window, seven ounces, full weight, and one of bitter almonds with them; pound the whole to a perfect paste with a few drops of white of egg or orange- flower water; then mix them thoroughly with one pound of flour and eight ounces of butter (which should be cool and firm, or it will render the paste too soft), and break this down quite small; then add eight ounces of pounded sugar, on part of which the rind of a fine lemon has been rasped previously to its being crushed to powder. Make these into a paste with the yolks of four eggs, or with rather less should they be large, for . if too moist, it will adhere to the board and roller. To make a Venetian cake of moderate size, roll the paste less than a quarter of an inch thick, and cut with the larger fluted cutter, shown at page 574, six or seven portions of equal size; lay them on lightly floured or buttered tins, and bake them in a slow oven until they are firm and crisp, and equally coloured of a pale brown. Should they seem to require it, lay them one on the other, while they are still warm, and place a baking-tin, with a slight weight, upon them to render them quite level. When they are cold, spread upon each a different kind of choice preserve, and pile the whole evenly into the form of an entire cake. The top may be iced, and decorated with pistachio- nuts, or grains of coloured sugar, or with a wreath of almond- paste leaves. There are many varieties of this excellent dish, which is known by different names in different countries. It is . sometimes called a Neapolitan Cake, sometimes a Thousand Leaf Cake a la Frangaise.. It is occasionally made entirely of almond-paste, and highly decorated ; it may be formed also of many layers of puff or fine short crust, cut of uniform size, or gradually less, so as to leave round each a clear border of an “ach wide, which may be covered with coloured icing, or orna- APPENDIX. ; 581 _ mented with preserved fruit, tinted almonds, grains of white or pink sugar candy, or aught else that the fancy may direct. To make the small Venetian cakes, roll the paste directed for ‘the large one at the commencement of this receipt, into balls, flatten them with the hand to about the third of an inch thick, brush them with beaten egg, and cover them plentifully with sugar-candy crushed about half the size of a pea: bake them in a slow oven. Almonds, 8 ozs.; flour, 1 lb.; butter, 8 ozs.; sugar, 3 Ib.; rind of 1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 3 to 4: preserve as needed.* SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD. (Excellent.) With one pound of flour mix well a couple of ounces of sifted sugar, and one of candied orange-rind or citron, sliced small ; make these into a paste with from eight to nine ounces of good butter, made sufficiently warm to be liquid; press the paste together with the hands, and mould it upon tins into large cakes nearly an inch thick, pinch the edges, and bake the shortbread in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or longer, should it not be quite crisp, but do not allow it to become deeply coloured. Flour, 1 lb.; sugar, 2 ozs.; candied orange or citron, 1 02.; butter, 8 to 9 ozs.: 20 minutes or more. EXCELLENT SHORT CRUST FOR SWEET PASTRY. Work very lightly half a pound of butter into a pound of flour, breaking it quite small; add a slight pinch of salt, two ounces of pounded sugar, and sufficient milk to make it into a perfectly smooth paste: bake it slowly, and keep it pale. It is an admirable crust, if well made and lightly handled: ten ounces of butter will render it very rich, but we find eight quite sufficient. APFEL KRAPFEN. (German Receipt.) Boil down three quarters of a pound of good apples with four ounces of pounded sugar, and a small glass of white wine, or the strained juice of a lemon; when they are stewed quite to a pulp, keep them stirred until they are thick and dry; then mix them gradually with four ounces of almonds, beaten to a paste, * An equal weight of almonds, sugar, flour, and butter may be used for this paste, which will then be found delicious, but rather less easy to mould than the one we have given, 582 ‘APPENDIX. or very finely chopped, two ounces of candied orange or lemon- rind shred extremely small, and six ounces of jar raisins stoned ‘and quartered : to these the Germans add a rather high flavour- ing of cinnamon, which is a very favourite spice with them, but a grating of nutmeg, and some fresh lemon-peel, are, we think, preferable for this composition. Mix all the ingredients well together; roll out some butter-crust a full back-of-knife thick- ness, cut it into four-inch squares, brush the edges to the depth of an inch round with beaten egg, fill them with the mixture, lay another square of paste on each, press them very securely _ together, make, with the point of a knife, a small incision in the top of each, glaze them or not at pleasure, and bake them rather slowly, that the raisins may have time to become tender. They are very good. *The proportion of sugar must be regu- lated by the nature of the fruit; and that of the almonds can be diminished when it is thought too much. A delicious tart of the kind is made by substituting for the raisins and candied orange-rind, two heaped tablespoonsful of very fine apricot jam. FAIRY FANCIES. (Fantasies de Fées.) A small, but very inex- pensive set of tin cutters must be had for this prety form of a =stei== pastry, which is, however, 7 4 ==— — quite worthy of so slight a = cost. The short crust, of which the receipt precedes this, answers for it better than puff paste. Roll it thin and very even, and with the larger tin, shaped thus, cut out a dozen or more of small sheets; then, with a cou- ple of round cutters, of which one should be about an inch in diameter, and the other only half the size, form four times : . the number of rings, and lay them on the sheets in the manner shown in the engraving. The easier mode of placing them regularly, is to raise each ring without removing the small cutter from it, to moisten it with a camel’s hair brush dipped in white of egg, and to lay it on the paste as it is gently loosened from the tin. When all the pastry is prepared, set it into avery gentle oven, that it may become crisp and yet remain APPENDIX. 583 quite pale. Before it is sent to table, fill the four divisions of each fanigiste with preserve of a different colour. For ex- ample: one ring with apple or strawberry jelly, another with apricot jam, a third with peach or green-gage, and a fourth with raspberry jelly. The crusts may be iced, and ornamented in various ways before they are baked. They are prettiest when formed of white almond-paste, with pink or pale green rings: they may then be filled, at the instant of serving, with well- drained whipped cream. . AN ADMIRABLE COOL CUP. Weigh six ounces of sugar in lumps, and extract the essence from the rind of a large fresh lemon by rubbing them upon it; then put them into a deep jug, and add the strained juice of one lemon and a half. When the sugar is dissolved, pour in a bottle of good cider, and three large wineglassesful of sherry ; add nearly half a small nutmeg lightly grated, and serve the cup with or without some sprigs of fresh balm or borage in it. Brandy is sometimes added to it, but is, we think, no improve- ment. If closely covered down, and placed in ice for a short time, it will be more agreeable as a summer beverage. MOULDED RICE, OR SAGO, AND APPLE JUICE. Free seven ounces of Carolina rice from the unhusked or ‘discoloured grains, and wipe it well in a soft cloth; pour to it a quart of cold prepared apple-juice (see page 427), and place it over a gentle fire: stir it often before it begins to boil, or it will gather into hard lumps. When it has stewed softly until it is tolerably tender, add to it six ounces of pounded sugar, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and stir it constantly until it is very thick and dry; then press it into a mould which has been - laid into water, and in twelve hours it may be turned out, and served either quite plain or with a rich syrup of apple-juice well flavoured with lemon; or it may be stuck with almond- spikes, and covered with a good boiled custard. For invalids, to whom it is peculiarly adapted, it is better without any accompaniment. After having well washed, and then drained the water from, eight ounces of sago, pour to it a pint and a half of apple juice, and proceed exactly as above; add four ounces of sugar, with the strained juice and grated rind of a lemon, and boil the mixture from fifteen to twenty minutes. In Sweden, and other countries, sago is boiled thick in the juice of cranberries, but of this preparation we have no expe- rience. It is very agreeable with the apple-juice, with which \ 584 APPENDIX. we had it tried in the first instance for a person in delicate health, to whom it proved extremely palatable. The juice of gooseberries, or of spring fruit, may be substituted for this on occasion ; and we would recommend that of white currants, mixed with a few strawberries, as likely to prove much more agreeable than either. 3 ; Carolina rice, 7 ozs.; prepared apple-juice, 1 quart; sugar, 6 ozs.; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful : boiled till very thick and dry. ; “ Or: sago, 4 ozs.; apple-juice, 13 pint; rind and juice, 1 niet sugar, 4 ozs.: 15 to 20 minutes, or longer if not very thick. TO DRESS CARP. (A common country receipt.) Scale and clean the fish with exceeding care, lay them into a stewpan, and cover them with good cold beef or veal broth; add one small onion stuck with a few cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, three or four slices of carrot, and a little salt, and stew the carp as gently as possible for nearly or quite an hour. Have ready some good brown gravy, mixed with a couple of glassesful of port wine, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, dish the carp very carefully, pour the sauce over, and serve them immediately. We would recommend the Genevese Sauce, of page 108, as superior to any other for this dish. MOULDED POTTED MEAT. (For the second course.) Press very closely and smoothly into a pan or mould the potted ham, or any other meat, of Chapter XIV., pour a thin layer of clarified butter on the top, and let it become quite cold. When wanted for table, wind round it for a moment a cloth which has been dipped into hot water, loosen the meat gently from it with a thin knife, turn it on to a dish, and glaze it lightly ; lay a border of small salad round it, with or without a decoration of hard eggs, or surround it instead with clear savoury jelly cut in dice. The meat, for variety, may be equally sliced, and laid regularly round a pile of small salad. A very elegant second course dish may be made with potted lobsters in this way, the centre being ornamented with a small shape of lobster butter. (See page 298.) . 584a APPENDIX IL CURRIED SOLES. First, fry gently in a morsel of butter a moderate-sized onion ~ sliced thin, and when it is well browned lift it on to a sieve reversed, to drain; then lay it into the stewpan in which the currie is to be made; next, mix about three dessertspoonsful of good currie powder with a teaspoonful of salt and a large table- spoonful of flour; raise the flesh in fillets from a couple of quite large soles, or take the heads and tails from two or three small ones, and divide each fish once or twice without boning it; rub half the powder on the soles, and fry them quickly and lightly; .then place them upon the onion, pour a little boiling water or broth into the pan, give it a shake, and a minute’s boil, add it to the fish, and when it begins to simmer, stir in the remainder of the powder, very smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of cold broth or water. Stew the currie softly from fifteen to twenty minutes ; throw in a spoonful of lemon-juice or Chili-vinegar ; and serve it as hot as possible. Onion, 1; flesh of soles, 2 large; (or small soles unboned 3 or 4;) currie powder, 3 dessertspoonsful ; salt, 1 small teaspoonful; flour, 1 tablespoonful; water or broth, 4 to 4 pint; lemon-juice or chili-vinegar, 1 to 2 dessertspoonsful: 15 to 20 minutes. Obs. 1. We have been favoured since the third edition of the present work was published, with some very obliging remarks on curries by Dr. Dickson of Curzon Street, who says, that to all curries a proportion of mushroom-powder should be added ; and that this may be obtained of Butler, herbalist, Covent Gar- den, at the very moderate price of sixpence per ounce. We much regret that our want of space precludes for the present the insertion of the remainder of his observations. Obs. 2. We have made trial of a large variety of currie powders, and found many of them good; but we think that sold - by Cooke and Co., 24, Princes Street, Cavendish Square, the most likely, perhaps, to meet with general approval. Selim’s currie paste, also, when genuine, answers well; but not unless it be subjected to the action of the hot butter before any liquid is added to it. When simply diluted, and stirred into boiling gravy, it is not so agreeable as the powder above named. - TO POACH EGGS. Take for this purpose a wide and delicately clean pan about half-filled with the clearest spring-water; throw in a table- PPO 5846 APPENDIX. spoonful of distilled or of extremely pale vinegar, and a small saltspoonful of salt, and place it over a fire quite free from smoke. Break some new-laid eggs into separate cups, and do this with care, that the yolks may not be injured. When the water boils, draw back the pan, slip the eggs gently into it, and let them stand until the whites appear almost set, which will be in about a minute; then, without shaking them, move the pan over the fire, and boil them softly from two minutes and a half to three minutes. Lift them out separately with a slice, trim quickly off the ragged edges, and serve them upon dressed spinach, or upon minced veal, turkey, or chicken; or dish them for an invalid, upon delicately toasted bread, sliced thick, and freed from crust: it isan improvement to have the bread but- tered, butt is then less wholesome. Some cooks drop the eggs at once into the water when it boils, and leave them in it for nearly or quite three minutes. We find either mode successful. . To stand in the water 1 minute; to simmer from 2 minutes and a 3 to 3 minutes; or to boi 3 minutes. Obs. Good cooks sometimes strike off the end of the egg which is to be poached, and drop it from the shell into the water, turning it, at the same time round in the hand: this an- swers well if adroitly done, not otherwise. POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY. (ENTREMETS.) Gufs Pochés au Jus. Dress the eggs as above, giving them as good an appearance as possible, lay them into a very hot dish, and sauce them with some rich, clear, boiling veal gravy, or with some Hspagnole. Each egg, for variety, may be dished upon a crouton of bread cut with a fluted paste-cutter, and fried a pale brown: the sauce should then be poured round, not over them. BROILED EELS WITH SAGE. (ENTREZ.) (German receipt.) . Skin, open, and cleanse one fine eel (or more), cut it into — finger-lengths, rub it with a mixed seasoning of salt and white pepper, and leave it for half an hour. Wipe it dry, wrap each length in sage leaves, fasten them round it with coarse thread, roll the eel in good salad oil or clarified butter, lay it on the gridiron, squeeze lemon-juice over, and broil it gently until it ~ is browned in every part. Send it to table with a sauce made of two or three ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of Chili, tar- Pere en ee vs sea Ali at atch! pa ticn APPENDIX, 584c ragon, or commorn vinegar, and one of water, with a little salt. To keep this smooth, proceed as for the Norfolk sauce of page 99. . We think this receipt might be applied with very good effect to some other kinds of fish, and to dressed meat also. We have found it answer agreeably even for cold shin of beef, which had been stewed in good gravy, and lifted from it while hot. POTTED LOBSTERS. (ENTREMETS,) Split the bodies and break the claws of some perfectly fresh lobsters, clear the flesh from all tough skin and shell, cut it quickly with a very sharp knife, and pound it, with all the in- side coral, to the smoothest paste, adding about an ounce and a half of butter, for each lobster of moderate size, and a seasoning of fine mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. When there is no coral, colour may be given to the mixture by stewing gently the red skin of the tails in part of the butter for about ten minutes, and adding it to the flesh, after it has been strained, and has become cold.* When flavour is preferred to good appearance, the soft _ part of the bodies may be beaten to the mixture. For precise directions for potting fish and meat, see Chapter XIV.; and for an elegant mode of serving this preparation en solade, see page 584. We recommend the addition of a few very fresh shrimps to the lobster here, as a great improvement to the receipt. The proportion of butter can be increased at pleasure. LOBSTER CUTLETS. (A SUPERIOR ENTREE). Prepare and pound with exceeding nicety, by the receipt which precedes this, about three quarters of a pound of the flesh of a couple of fine fresh lobsters, of which one must be a hen lobster ; add to it, when it is partially beaten, an ounce and a half of sweet new butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and about two- thirds as much of mixed mace and cayenne, with a dessertspoonful of the inside coral (the whole of which should be rubbed with a wooden spoon through a hair sieve, to be in readiness for use). When all these ingredients are well blended, and beaten to the finest and smoothest paste, the mixture should be tested by the taste, and the seasoning heightened if needful; but, as the pre- * By pounding separately part of the white flesh of the fish, freed from every particle of the skin, and by colouring the remainder highly with the coral of the lobster, and then pressing the two in alternate and regular layers into a mould, a dish of pretty appearance is produced, which should be turned out of the mould for table. Ham and turkey, or any other white meat, are often potted in this - way. , 584d APPENDIX. paration is very delicate it dwotie: not be over-spiced. Mould it into the form of small cutlets, about the third of an inch thick ; stick into each a short bit of the smallest claws; strew the coral lightly over them, so as to give them the appearance of being crumbed with it; arrange them round the dish in which they are to be sent to table; place them in a very gentle oven for eight or ten minutes only, to heat them through, or warm them in a Dutch or American oven, placed at some inches from the fire, that the brilliant colour of the coral may not be de- stroyed, and pour into the centre some good béchamel (see page 97), or the Lady’s Sauce, or the Cream Sauce of Chapter IV. A very white sauce best contrasts with the colour of the cutlets. This is an excellent and elegant dish, of which an admirable | variety is made by the addition of three or four ounces of the freshest shrimps, quickly shelled, and chopped before they are thrown into the mortar; with half an ounce of butter and a little spice. All the coral can be added to the cutlets at pleasure; but it is generally in request for many purposes, and 1s required for this one, only in part. SUPRRLS Oe LOBSTER PATTIES. Form into balls about half the size ( ».. . of a filbert either the cutlet mixture 7G wl” é\ or the pounded lobster above ; roll them = POP yl ) in the sifted coral, warm them through LN I very gently, have ready some hot patty-cases. (see page 351), pour into each a small spoonful of rich white sauce, or Sauce al Aurore (see page 108), lay the balls round the edge, pile a larger one in the centre, and serve the whole very quickly. The Dresden patties of page 570 may be thus filled. LOBSTER SAUSAGES. Prepare the fish as for the cutlets, but pound half or more of the coral with the flesh of the lobsters; shape it like small sausages, sprinkle them with the coral, and heat them through in a Dutch or American oven. They may be brushed with clarified butter before the coral is strewed over them, but they scarcely need it. A fierce degree of heat will destroy the excellence of all these preparations. TO STEAM A PUDDING IN A COMMON STEWPAN OR SAUCEPAN. Butter and fill the mould or basin as usual ; tie over it, first, awell-buttered paper, and then a thin floured cloth or muslin, Pa eo ee APPENDIX, 584e which should be quite small; gather up and tie the corners, and. be careful that no part of it, or of the paper, reaches to the water; pour in from two to three inches depth of this, according to the height of the mould, and when it boils put in the pudding, and press the cover of the stewpan closely on ; then simmer it gently without ceasing until it is done. This is the safer method of boiling all puddings made with polenta, or with the American flour of maize. MAIZE PUDDING.* (AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR POTATOES). Put half a pint of the maize-meal into a bowl, add to it a saltspoonful of salt, cut about an ounce of butter (even less will suffice, or a bit of dripping when it is not disliked), into half a pint of milk, and when it boils, take it from the fire, and add to it a quarter of a pint of cold milk, as it must be poured hot, but not bovling to the meal; then proceed to mix it with the maize; butter a pie or tart dish, which should not be very shallow; pour in the pudding, smooth the top, and bake it very slowly, in a Dutch or American oven for two hours, when, if properly managed, it will have become quite firm. If placed too near the fire at first the surface will harden, and the pud- ding will not bake as it ought. When it does not adhere to the knife if tried with the blade, it is done. PUDDING OF POLENTA, OR ITALIAN FLOUR OF MAIZE. Half a pound of polenta, a pint and a quarter of milk, an ounce of butter, and some salt and cayenne, managed and mixed exactly like the maize above, and crntiy baked before the fire from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, will make an excellent plain pudding sufliciently firm to be turned out of the dish in which it is baked before it is sent to table. SWEET PUDDING OF POLENTA. From half to a whole ounce of butter, three to four ounces of sugar, dissolved in the milk, the grated rind of a lemon, four ounces of Sultana raisins, and one of finely shred candied orange- rind, added to the foregoing receipt, will make a good sweet family pudding. For a very cheap one, two tablespoonsful of treacle, well worked up with the polenta before the milk is poured to it, and a little lemon-grate will be all sufficient, instead of thé more expensive ingredients. Obs. Next to their perfect wholesomeness, the great recom- * This receipt is for the American maize-meal. 584f APPENDIX. mendation of these puddings is their being quite firm without any eggs: the yellow tint of the polenta itself gives them the appearance of containing many. POLENTA A L’ITALIENNE. Mix seven ounces of the polenta with one quart of cold miik, and stir them over a clear fire until they boil; continue to stir the mixture until it is as thick as it can be,—(from ten to twelve minutes will usually be sufficient), then proceed in all else by the receipt of page 423. Salt and cayenne must be added, as there, to the polenta at first. MUSH, OR PORRIDGE OF MAIZE-MEAL,* WHICH RESEMBLES THE SCOTTISH CROWDIE. The raw flavour of the maize is, we think, best overcome by mixing it with cold milk or water, and then stirring it over the fire until it has become thick from boiling. To half a pint of — meal add about a saltspoonful of salt, and mix it gradually with rather more than a quart of liquid. Turn it into a saucepan, and stir it over a clear fire until it has boiled from ten to fifteen minutes; or, if this method be thought troublesome, mix the meal with part of the liquid, and pour it into the remainder when it boils. It is very pleasant in flavour... * Called also stir-about.— The importations of American maize-flour or meal have hitherto been very insufficient to supply the eager demand for it which has arisen in this country since public attention has been directed to it by the legis- lature as a cheap and nutritious article of diet. There is little doubt, however, that it will soon become common food throughout the kingdom; and we therefore much regret that our limits will not permit us to make known here the many uses to which we find it admirably adapted. But we are compelled to reserve, for a little work upon the subject which we have now in progress,’ all the remainder of our receipts for its preparation. The polenta, or Italian Indian-corn meal, differs, both in its quality and its nature, from the American, though it is derived from the same species of grain; but this in Italy is highly dried, when harvested, either by the action of the sun, or by artificial means. It assumes, in consequence, a fine yellow tint, and is so much hardened that it almost resembles flour-of-rice when ground. It is at present sold at sixpence the pound at the best Italian ware= houses (we have ourselves been supplied with it always extremely good by Mr. Cobbett of Pall Mall); but when its superior quality, and its genwineness also, . are considered, its price will not appear so disproportionate to that of the Ameri- can meal as it would seem at first. We have had specimens of the latter from Liverpool, Manchester, and London. The best of the three samples by far was half “oatmeal very coarsely prepared. The London packet had literally been ‘‘ made up” for sale with bean-flour and other matters, and produced, when used, an entirely different effect to the meal of Indian corn, and its flavour bore no resemblance to it whatever. We mention this, that our readers may see the desirableness of — procuring the corn itself, and having it ground into flour or meal at home. A small mill for the purpose might, we should suppose, be constructed without great expense. APPENDIX, 584g Maize-meal, half-pint; milk or water, full quart; salt, one saltspoonful: ten to fifteen minutes. | | Obs. This porridge may be made in the Scottish fashion, by dropping the meal lightly through the fingers into the boiling liquid, and beating it smooth with a sort of stick kept for the purpose; but the method we have given will better prevent its lumping. Polenta, used in the same proportion as the American meal in this receipt, with milk, and the addition of a little sugar _and nutmeg, makes agreeable food for the nursery and for invalids. SHRIMPS, POTTED, WHOLE.“ (AN ADMIRABLE RECEIPT.) Let the fish for this receipt be very fresh ; shell them quickly, touching them as lightly as possible; melt down, with a gentle degree of heat, some new butter; skim and pour it, clear of sediment, into a clean enamelled saucepan ; add a little salt, mace, and cayenne; and when these have just simmered for three or four minutes, throw in the fish, toss them in the butter, that all may be covered with it, and let them heat through by the side of the stove, but on no account be allowed to boil ; turn them into shallow pans, and press them down into the butter. Should it not cover them entirely, pour a little more over them when they are nearly cold. Shelled shrimps, 1 pint; butter, 4 to 5 oz.; small quantity each of salt, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne. TO RENDER CHICKENS WHITE, FOR BOILING. Lay them, after they are trussed, into a pan of spring water for ten or fifteen minntes. This may weaken their flavour slightly, but it will improve their appearance. Cover them well with more cold water; heat them slowly; watch and clear off all the scum as it appears, and boil them gently until they are ready to serve. (See p. 263.) Truss them without the livers or gizzards. For a more expensive and refined mode of dressing them, see Poelée, p. 154. * We have, in part, derived this receipt, of which we have permission to make use, from a small treatise on pickling and curing meat and fish, by Mr. Robin- son. (Longman and Co.) But we have adapted it to our own taste by some variations which render it; we think, more delicate. We would here observe, that . all shell-fish, after having been sufficiently boiled for eating, is, like meat, injured if more than just heated through a second time. This applies particularly to - lobsters. 584k APPENDIX. SPRING SOUP AND SOUP A LA JULIENNE. Throw into three quarts of strong clear broth, or shin of beef stock, or of gravy-soup, half a pint each of turnips and carrots, prepared by the directions of page 5, or turned into any other shape that may be preferred, with rather less of the solid part of some white celery stems, and of leeks or of very mild onions mixed. The latter must, if used, be sliced, drawn into rings, and divided into slight shreds. When these have simmered from twenty to thirty minutes, add the leaves of one or two lettuces and a few of sorrel, trimmed or: torn, about the size of half-a- crown. Continue the gentle boiling until these are tender, and at the moment of serving add half a pint of asparagus-points boiled very green, and as many French beans cut into small lozenges, and also boiled apart; or substitute green peas for these last. For the Julienne soup, first stew the carrots, &c. tolerably tender in a couple of ounces of butter; pour the stock boiling ‘to them; skim off all the fat from the surface, and finish as above. Sprigs of chervil, spinage (boiled apart, and sparingly added), green onions, very small tufts of brocoli or cauliflower, may all be used in these soups at choice., Both the kind and the proportion of the vegetables can be regulated entirely by. the taste. Bread stamped out with a very small round cutter, and dried a pale brown in the oven, is added generally to this spring soup, but is, we should say, no improvement. Winter vegetables should have three or four minutes previous boiling (or blanching) before they are put into the soup. . INDEX. Acid Royal, strawberry, 545 Alderman’s pudding, 392 Almond, cake, 516 candy, 537 biscuits, bitter, 516 cream, for blamange, 449 macaroons, 514 paste, 355 paste, fairy fancies of, 582 paste, sandwiches of, 362 paste, tartlets of, 356 rocher, 515 shamrocks, (very good and very : pretty ) 543 Almonds to blanch, 512 chocolate, 538 — - to colour for cakes or pastry, 513 in cheesecakes, 361 to pound, 512 in soups, 21, 22 to reduce to paste, the quickest and easiest way, 512 Anchovies, eggs forced with, 424 tried in batter, 81 potted, 297 ' Anchovy, butter, 127 sauce, 105 Apfel krapfen (German receipt), 581 Apple cake, 352 calf’s-feet jelly, 434 Charlotte, or Charlotte de Pom- mes, 458 marmalade for Charlotte de Pommes, 458 custards, 454 dumplings, fashionable, 386 fritters, 416 hedgehog, or Swédoise, 452 jelly, 493 jelly, exceedingly fine, 493 juice, prepared, 427 pudding, 372 pudding, small common, 373 sauce, 120 sauce, baked, 120 sauce, brown, 120 Apple soup, 20 snowballs, 387 tart, 354 creamed tart, 354 Apples, baked compote of, (our little lady’s receipt), 542 buttered, or Pommes au beurre, 459 Apricots, compote of green, 429 Apricots dried, French receipt for, 487 to dry, a quick and easy method, 486 Apricot blamange, 449 fritters, 416 marmalade, 486 Artichokes, @ la Reine, 329 to boil, 317 en salade, 317 to remove the chokes from, 317° Jerusalem, to boil, 327 to fry, 327 mashed, 328 excellent sauce of, 123 soup of, 18 Asparagus, to boil, 308 _ to serve cold, 308 points, dressed like peas, 308 Aspic, or clear savoury jelly, 94 Arnott Stove, 329 Arocé Docé, or sweet rice @ la Portu- gaise, 461 Arrow-root, to thicken sauces with, 83 to thicken soup with, 3. 23. 33. 8 Bacon, to boil, 247 broiled or fried, 248 Cobbet’s receipt for, 241 dressed rashers of, 248 French, ‘for larding, 244 lardoons of, 166 to pickle cheeks of, 244 genuine Yorkshire receipt for curing, 242 : Bain-marie, use of, 95 586 INDEX. apple-pudding, another receipt for, 402 fillet of, braised, 172 fillet of, roast, 172 Baked apple-pudding, or custard, 402 | Beef, Dutch or hung, 184 | apple-pudding, a common, 402 compote of apples, 542 minced beef, 195 round of spiced beef, 185 beet-root, 329 bread-puddings, 395 calf’s feet, and head, 163 custard, 455, 456 haddocks, 66 ham, 247 hasty pudding, 408 joints, with potatoes, 164 mackerel, 62 marrow bones, 196 mullet, 67 pike, 72 potatoes, 302 salmon, 164 smelts, 68 soles (or soles aw plat), 59 soup, 164 sucking-pig, 239 whitings, @ la Franeaise, 61 Baking, directions for, 163 Banbury cakes, 520 Barberries, to pickle, 510 in bunches, to preserve, 497 stewed, for dessert, 431 Barberry jam, a good receipt for, 498 jam, another receipt for, 498 - jam, very common, 498 jelly, 497 superior jelly and marmalade, 498 and rice pudding, 406 tart, 354 Barley-sugar, 534 Barley-water, excellent, (poor Xury’s ! receipt), 552 Batter, French, for frying meat and vegetables, &c., 129 cod’s sounds fried in, 56 salsify, fried in, 331 spring fruit, fried in, 416 to mix for puddings, 366 Béchamel, 97, 98 Beans, French, to boil, 310 a la Francaise, 310 another excellent receipt for, 310 Windsor, to boil, 311 Beef, @ la mode, 178 breslaw of, 193 cake, (very good) 175 to choose, 170 minced collops of, 189 savoury minced collops of, 189 Scotch minced collops of, 190 richer minced collops of, 189 divisions of, 169 hashed, French receipt for, 194 cold, common hash of, 193 cold, excellent hash of, 193 collared, 184 collared, another receipt for, 185 Norman hash of, 194 heart, to roast, 192 kidney, to dress, 192. kidney (a plainer way), 192 marrow-bones, to boil, 195 marrow-bones, baked, 196 palates, (Entrée), 180 palates (Neapolitan mode), 182 Hamburg pickle for, 183 another pickle for, 183 roll, or canellon de boeuf, 180 miniature round of, 187 round of, to salt and boil, 182 round. of, spiced, 185 round of, roast, 171 rump of, to roast, 171 | rump of, to stew, 179 common receipt for salting, 185 shin of, to stew; 177 shin uf, for stock, 84 sirloin of, to roast, 170 sirloin of, stewed, 179 spiced soot, and . wholesome), 18 steak, roast, 172 steak, stewed, 174 steak, stewed in its own gravy, 175 steaks, best and most mder, ‘170 4 steaks, broiled, 172 steaks, broiled, sauces appropri- ate to, 173 steaks, fried, 175 steaks, & la Francaise, 174 , steaks, @ la Francaise, another receipt for, 174 ; steak pie, 344 steak puddings, 368, 369 good English stew of, 177 German stew, 176 Stufato, 187 Welsh stew of, 176 tongue (Bordyke’s receipt stewing), 191 tongue potted, tongues (various modes of curing), 188. 190 tongues, to dress, 191 tongues, Suffolk receipt for, 190 Beet-root, to bake, 330 ' to boil, 329 to stew, 330 INDEX. Bengal currie, 288 Bermuda witches, 462 Birthday syllabub, 550 Biscuits, almond, bitter, 516 Aunt Charlotte’s, 531 Captain’s, 531 chestnut, 525 Colonel’s, 531 cheap ginger, 524 Judge Franks’ ginger, 525 Biscuit, cocoa-nut, 528 Bishop, Oxford receipt for, 549 Black-cap pudding, 371 Black-caps par excellence, 541 Black cock, and grey hen, to roast, + 982 Blamange, or blanc manger, apricot, 449 (author’s receipt,) 447 calf’s feet, to make, 426 currant, 450 quince (delicious), 449 quince, with almond cream, 449 rich, 447 vubané, or striped, 450 strawberry (extremely good), 448 strengthening, 451 Blane, a, 154 Blanch, to, meat, vegetables, &c., 167 Blanquette, of sucking pig, 239 of ae lamb with mushrooms, 21 Boiled calf’s head, 198 . chestnuts, 543 custard, 453 eels (German receipt), 74 fowls, 263 leeks, 307 rice, to serve with stewed fruit, c., 388 rice-pudding, 385 turnip-radishes, 307 breast of veal, 206 fillet of veal, 204 knuckle of veal, 208 loin of veal, 205 Boiling, general directions for, 153 Bone to, calf’s head for brawn, 203 calf’s head, the cook’s receipt, 1 calf’s head for mock turtle soup, 23 @ fowl-or turkey without opening it, 254 @ fowl or turkey, another mode, 255 fowls, for fricassees, curries, and pies, 256 a hare, 275 @ leg of mutton, 224 @ loin of mutton for pies, 345 587 Bone to, a shoulder of veal or mutton, 206 neck of venison for pies, 342 Boning, general directions for, 167 Bon-bons, palace, Bottled fruits, for winter use, 492 sooseberries, 470 tomatas, or tomata-catsup, 136 Boudin, ad la Richelieu, 278 Boulettes, 304 Bouiili, 6 French receipt for hashed, 194 Bouillon, 6 Brain cakes, 148 calf’s, added to soup, 23. 28 Braise, to burn, 465 Braised, fillet of beef, 172 leg of mutton, 224 Braising, directions for, 165 Brandy, cherry (Tappington Eve- rard receipt), 566 lemon, for flavouring dishes, 139 peaches preserved in, 566 trifle, or tipsy cake, 444 Brandied morella Cherries, 566 Brawn, calf’s head (Author’s receipt), sweet Tonbridge, 248 Bread, Bordyke receipt for, 562 brown, 563 cocoa-nut, 564 crumbs, fried, 130 crumbs, to prepare for frying fish, 129 crust, for pies or tarts (excellent), 5 to fry for garnishing, 130 to fry for soups, 4 partridges served with, 265 potato, 563 puddings, 384, 394 and butter puddings, 393, 394 sauce, 102 sauce with onion, 103 to purify yeast for, 560 Brezolles, 211 Brioche paste, 339 Brioche rusks, English, 565 Brill, to boil, 51 Broccoli, 317 Broiled beef-steak, 172 bacon, 248 cutlets, mutton, 230 cutlets, pork, 241 fowl, 263 mackerel, 160 partridge, 281 partridge (French receipt), 281 salmon, 160 whitings, 160 588 Broiling, general directions for, 160 Broil, the Cavalier’s, 576 Broth, 6 veal, or mutton, 44 Browned flour for thickening soups and sauces, 130 Browning, with salamander, 169 Brown, rich, English gravy 87 gravy, common, 91 caper sauce, 116 chestnut sauce, 125 mushroom sauce, 118 onion sauce, 121 rabbit soup, 31 Brussels sprouts, 331 Bullaces, jelly of, 490 stewed, or compote of, 428 Bun, a good light, 528 _ Buns, most excellent, 529 Geneva, 564 P Burlington Whimsey, 200 Burnt coffee, or gloria, 559 Buttered apples, 459 cherries, 461 Butter, anchovy, 127 burnt, 100 clarified, for storing and for im- mediate use, 100 to cool for crust, 335 creamed, and otherwise prepared for cakes, 513 lobster, 298 melted, good common, 99 melted, French, 99 melted, rich, 98 melted, rich, without flour, 99 melted, and parsley, 114 melted, white, 99 loin of lamb stewed in, 235 Butter-milk, for bread, 550 Cabbage, to boil, 323 in currie, 289 stewed, 323 -red, to stew (Flemish receipt), 330 red, to pickle, 510 Café noir, 558 Cake, fine almond, 516 apple, 352 beef or mutton, 175 a cheap common, 527 Cornish, heavy, 530 Dresden, 520 - thick, light gingerbread, 552 a good Madeira, 519 pound, 517 rice, 517 sausage-meat, or pain de pore Srais, 250 a@ good soda, 527 &@ good sponge, 518 Cake, another sponge, (good, INDEX, and quickly made), 519 a smaller sponge, 518 tipsy, 444 veal, 209 Be ae (Bordyke receipt for), Eye i, or Neapolitan (super- . excellent), 580 white, 517 Cakes, Banbury, 520 cinnamon, or lemon, 526 flead, or fleed, 530 cocoa-nut gingerbread, 528 common gingerbread, 528 richer gingerbread, 523 queen, 527 very good small rich, 515 to prepare butter for rich, 518 to whisk eggs for light rich, 514 small Venetian, 581 Calf’s head, dla Maitre d@ Hotel, 202 boiled, 198 boned and rolled, 199 to clear the hair from, 197 cutlets of, 200 hashed, 201 a cheap hash of, 201 See the cook’s receipt, 199 soup, 2 The Warder’s way, 198 Calf’s feet jelly, 4382 jelly, in barley-water, 552 jelly, in punch, 548 to prepare for stock, 425 stewed, 216 stock, 425 stock, to clarify, 426 Calf’ s-foot, in bouillon, 7 in shin of beef stock, 84 Calf’s-liver, fried, 217 stoved or stewed, 577 roast, 217 sweetbreads, 215 Cambridge milk punch, 549 Candy, almond, 537 cocoa-nut, 536 ginger, 585 orange-flower, 536 orange-flower (another receipt for), 536 Canellon de boeuf, 188 Canellons, filled with apricot or ae marmalade, 417 of brioche paste, 418 Caper sauce, 116 sauce for fish, 117 Capillaire in punch, 549 Caramel, to boil sugar to, 583 ~ the quickest way, 534 Carp, to stew, 533 a TA, ae! li? 2 sa ™ eet ae INDEX. 589 Carrots, aw beurre, $27 to boil, 325 in plum pudding, 382 sweet, for second course, 326 the Windsor receipt, 326 Carrot, soup, common, 18 soup, a finer, 19 Casserole of rice, savoury, 342 of rice, sweet, 403 Catsup, the cook’s, or compound, 134 lemon, 135 mushroom, 132, 133. mushroom, double, 134 pontac, for fish, 136 tomata, 136 walnut, 134, 135 Caulifiowers, to boil, 316 French receipt for, 316 ala Frangaise, 316 with Parmesan cheese, 316 served with fowls, 263 Cayenne, vinegar, 139 Celery, boiled, 332 salad, to serve with pheasants, 315 sauce, 124 stewed, 332 Chantilly baskets, 444. 567 Charlotte de pommes, or apple Char- lotte, 453 a la Parisienne, 459 Cheese, in fondu, 413 with maccaroni, 421 with maccaroni, @ la Reine, 422 in ramakins, 363 to serve with white and macca- roni soup, 11, 22 Cheesecakes, cocoa-nut (Jamaica re- ceipt), 359 lemon (Christ-Church College re- ceipt), 360 Norfolk, 568 Madame Werner’s Rosenvik, 361 Cherries, brandied morella, 566 compote of Kentish, 429 compote of morella, 429 dried with sugar, 473 dried without, 474 dried, superior receipt, 474. to pickle, 503 preserved, morellas, 475 Chestnuts, boiled, 543 roasted, 543 stewed, 333, Chestnut, biscuits, 525 sauce, brown, 125 sauce, white, 125 soups, 17 Chetney, various ways of making, 132 Chicken, broiled, 263 cutlets, 265 fried, a la Malabar, 266 patties (good), 350 Chicken pie, (common), 344 modern pie, 343 Chickens, boiled, 263. fricasseed, 264 in soup, 29 China chilo, of, mutton, 230 Chocolate, almonds, 588 custard, 445 drops, 538 to make, 559 Chops, lamb or mutton, broiled, 230 mutton, stewed in their own gravy (good), 229 pork, 241 Christopher North’s own sauce for many meats, 110 Cinnamon cakes, 520 Cocoa-nut bread, 553 biscuit, 528 candy, 536 cheesecakes, 359 in curries, 292 gingerbread, 523, 524 milk, flavoured with, for sweet dishes, 428 macaroons, 515 puddings, 405 soup, 17 Cod fish, to boil, 53 slices of, fried, 54 stewed, 54 stewed in brown gravy, 55 Cod’s sounds, to boil, 56 to fry in batter, 56 Coffee, to boil, 557 breakfast, French, 558 burnt, 559 to filter, 558 to refine, 558 strong, clear, to serve after din- ner, called café noir, 558 to roast,*556 Cold, calf’s head, to re-dress, 201, 202 fowls, ditto, 266, 267 leg of mutton, ditto, 226 mattre @ hotel, sauce, 107 meat, excellent sauces to serve with, 109, 113 salmon, to dress, 53 turbot, ditto, 51 Collops minced, au naturel, 189 savoury minced, 189 sauté-pan tor frying, 162 Scotch, 214 Scotch minced, 190 Compote of apples, baked (our little Lady’s receipt), 542 of green apricots, 429 of bullaces, 430 of cherries, 429 of Kentish cherries, 429 of Morella cherries, 429 590 INDEX. Compote of green currants, 429 of red currants, 429 of damsons, 429 of green gooseberries, 429 of magnum bonum, or other large plums, 430 of Oranges (a Hebrew dish), 540 of peaches, 430 of peaches, another receipt, 430 of Siberian crabs, 480 of spring truit (rhubarb), 428 Conjuror, a, its uses, 160 Consommée, 85 j - Constantia jelly, 437 Cool cup, a, 583 Cornish heavy cake, 530 Counsellor’s cup, 555 Crab, buttered, 76 Crabs, Siberian, jelly of, 496 Cray-fish, to boil, 76 Creamed apple tart, 354 tartlets, 567 Cream, Chantilly basket filled with, 444 crust, 337 jelly, filled with, 439 lemon, made without cream, 445 Nesselréde, 441 sauce for fish, 106 Swiss, 443 in one: 13. 17, 18. 20, 21. 238. Creams, rites (very, good), 445 fruit, 446 Italian, 446 Créme a la Comtesse, or the Coun- tess’s cream, 442 meringuée, 444 Parisienne, 449 patissiére, 361 | Crust, common suet, for pies, 388 very superior suet, for pies, 338 suet, for puddings, 367 Crusts, to serve with cheese, 565 eekolse (Author’s receipt), to dress, soup, 38 vinegar, 137 Cucumbers, @ la Créme, 314 a la Poulette, 318 dressed, 311 fried, 314 stewed, 313 Cuirasseau, or curacao, 551 Currants, to clean for puddings and cakes, 364 green, stewed, 429 red, stewed, 429 red, stewed, to serve with sweet puddings, 375 Currant, blamange, 450 custard, 454 dumplings, 387 jam, green, 478 jam, red (delicious), 480 jam, white, 481 jelly, French, 480 jelly, superlative red, 480 jelly, white, very fine, 481 jelly, tartlets, 863 paste, 481 pudding, 372 shrub, 577 syrup, or oe dé groseilles, 547 Curried eggs, 292 gravy, 294 maccaroni, 291 oysters, 293 sweetbreads, 292 Crisped potatoes, or potato-ribbons, ; Currie, Mr. Arnott’s, 288 K a to serve with cheese, 571 Critic’s the gentle, fowrte a la créme, 574 Croquettes of rice, 418 of rice, filled with preserve, 419 of rice, savoury, 419 of shrimps, 571 Croustades, or sweet patiies d@ la minute, 570 Croute-aux-champignons, or mush- room-toast, 321 Croute - aux - crevettes, or shrimp toast, 77 Crust, excellent bread (for hot pies or tarts), 565 butter, for puddings, 367 cream, 337 tlead, 337 French, for hot or cold meat pies, 337 excellent short, 581 rich short, for tarts, 839 a Bengal, 288 — to boil rice for, 36, 37 a dry, 289 ; common Indian, 290 Currie powder, Mr. Arnott’s, 287 Bass, remarks on, 286 Selim’s (Capt. White’s) 291 | Custard, baked, 454 currant, 454 the Duke’s, 455 the Queen’s, 454 i veal, or a Sefton, 352 — Custards, boiled, 453 boiled, rich, 453 chocolate, 455 French, 456 » » quince, or apple, 454 Cutlets of calf’s head, 200 of fowls, partridges, or pigeons, 265 lamb, in their own gravy, stewed, 229 ae ee ee oe a 7 INDEX. Cutlets, lamb, or mutton, with Soubise sauce, 235 mutton, broiled, 230 of cold mutton, 232 tmoutton, in their own gravy, stewed, 229 pork, 241 veal, @ la Francaise, 214 veal, @ lV’ Indienne, or Indian fashion, 213 veal, ad la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 215 veal, fried, 213 of sweetbreads, 215 Damson, cheese, 490 jam, 489 jelly, 489 solid, 489 pudding, 406 Des Cerneaux, or walnut salad, 315 Dough oe Isle of Wight, receipt for, 51 ; Dresden cake, 520 patties, or croustades, 570 Dried apples, to stew, 54] apricots, French receipt, 487 cherries, with sugar, 473 cherries, without sugar, 474 gooseberries, with and without sugar, 472 mushrooms, 139 vlums (Pruneauax de Tours), to stew, 541 Dry, to, apricots, a quick and easy method, 486 Imperatrice plums, 492 Mogul plums, 485 peaches or nectarines, 488 Duck, stewed, 269 Ducks, to roast, 268 stuffing for, No. 9, 146 wild, to roast, 285 Dumplings, apple (fashionable), 386 currant, light, 387 lemon, 387 Norfolk, 388 Suffolk, or hard, 387 tomata, American, 386 Dutch, or hung beef, 184 custard, 403 flummery, 448 Eels, boiled, German receipt, 74 Cornish receipt, 74 to fry, 73 Egg balls, 148 sauce, for calf’s head, 101 sauce, common, 101 sauce, good, 160 591 Eggs, curried, 292 forced, or en surprise, 424 forced, for salad, 424 to whisk, for cakes, 513 Elderberry wine, 553 Elegant, the Economist’s, pudding, 380, 3 lobster salad, 584 English, brioche, and brioche-rusks, 565 brown gravy, 87 game pie, 342 puff paste, 336 stew, 177 Entremets, apfel krapfen (German receipt), 581 apple cake, or German tart, 352 apple calf’s feet jelly, 434 apple custards, 454 epple, rene or orange fritters, apple hedgehog, or Suédoise, 452 apple tarts, 354 apricot blamange, 449 arocé docé, or sweet rice @ la Portugaise, 461 asparagus points, dressed like peas, 309 barberry tart, 354 Bermuda witches, 462 ~blamanges (various), 447, 448, 449, 450 boiled custards, 453, 454 brioche fritters, 416 buttered cherries, or cerises au beurre, 461 calf’s feet jelly, 432 ' canellons, 417, 418 cauliflowers @ da Francaise, 316 cauliflowers with Parmesan cheese, 316 . Chantilly basket, 444 Charlotte @ la Parisienne, 544 chocolate custard, 455 cocoa-nut cheese cakes, 359 compote of peaches, 430 compotes (various) of fruit, 428, 429 constantia jelly, 437 creamed tartlets, 367 créme a@ ta Comtesse, or the Countess’s cream, 442 créme meringuée, 444 croquettes of rice, 418 croquettes of rice, finer, 419 croustades, or sweet paities @ la minute, 570 cucumbers @ la créme, 314 cucumbers @ la poulette, 313 currant jelly tartlets or custards, custards, (baked), 455, 456 592 . INDEX. ‘Entremets, pancakes, 414 —s Entremets, custards (various), 453, 3 Dresden cake, 520 dressed maccaroni, 421 fairy fancies, 582 Sanchonettes, 363 forced eggs, or eggs en surprise, 424 French beans @ la Francaise,310 gateau of mixed fruits, 432 gateau de pommes, 431 gdteau de riz, 397 giteau de semoule, 395 genoises a la Reine, 355 gentle ee s tourte a la créme, 57 gentleman commoner’s pudding, 444 German puffs, 457 Gertrude @ la créme, 458 green peas @ la Francaise, 309 green peas with cream, 310 imperial gooseberry fool, 452 Italian creams, 440 - jaumange, or jaune manger, 448 Jerusalem artichokes @ la Reine, 828 . Kentish fritters, 414 lemon calf’s feet jelly, 437 lemon cheese cakes, 360 ‘lemon creams, 445 lemon fritters, 417 lemon sandwiches, 362 lemon sponge, 451 - lemon tartlets, 363 lobster au béchamel, 75 lobster salad, 573 Louise Franks? citron souffle, 412 Madame Werner’s Rosenvik cheese cakes, 361 Madeleine puddings, 397 Meringue of pears, 544 Meringues, 521 mincemeat fritters, 415 mince pies, 358 mince pies royal, 558 monitor’s tart, 359 moulded rice, or sago, and apple- juice, 583 mushroom-toast, 32] mushrooms au beurre, 320 Nesselréde pudding, 461 Norfolk cheesecakes, 568 omlette aux fines herbes, 410 omlette souffiée, 411 orange calf’s feet jelly, 485 orange fritters, 416 3 orange isinglass jelly, 436 oranges filled with jelly, 436 pastry sandwiches, 362 plain common fritters, 414 pommes au beurre, or buttered apples, 458 potatoes & la maitre @’hotel, 305 potato doulettes, 304 potato fritters, 417 potato-ribbons, 571 potted meats, 584 prawns, 76 pudding-pies, 359 puffs @ la Colburn, 569 ine Mab’s summer pudding,* 0 quince blamange, 448 ramakins @ l’ Ude, 363 raspberry pufis, 567 rice @ la Vathek, 569 rice souffié, 412 salad of potted lobster, 584 sea-kale, 305 sea-kale stewed in gravy, 305 scooped potatoes, 302 mans Se. 8 a la Howitt, 2 spinach, @ ? Anglaise, 306 spinach (French receipt), 306 stewed celery, 332 stewed, peaches, 430 strawberry blamange, 448 strawberry isinglass jelly, 488 strawberry tartlets, 567 suédoise of peaches, 458 sweet carrots, 326 sweet casserole of rice, 403 sweet maccaroni, 461 Swiss cream, or trifle, 448 tartlets of almond paste, 356 tipsy cake, or brandy trifle, 444 © tourte meringuée, 353 trifle (excellent), 442 truffied omlet, 572 ee truffles a l’Italtienne, 393 truffles @ la serviette, 322 turnips in white sauce, 324 Venetian cake, 580 Venetian fritters, 415 Vol-au-vent a la créme, 349 Vol-au-vent of fruit, 349 Enirées, beef cake, 175 beef collops, 189 beef palates, 180, 181 beef roll, or canellon de beeuf, 188 beef steaks @ la Frangaise; 174, 175 beef tongues, 191 Bengal currie, 288 blanquette of sucking pig, 239 ee * Though not included in this list, all sweet puddings are served as entre. ines, except when they replace the roasts of the second course. —_ INDEX. 5938 Entrées, blanquette of veal or lamb with mushrooms, 218 broiled mutton cutlets, 230 broiled oxtail, 181 ones a a la maitre Whotel, cals head the Warder’s way, calf’s tee fried, 217 casserole of rice, 342 chicken cutlets, 265 chicken patties, 350 common Indian currie, 290 croquettes of shrimps, 571 croustades filled with mince, 570 cutlets of calf’s head, 200 cutlets of fowls, partridges, or pigeons, 265 curried eggs, 292 curried maccaroni, 291 curried oysters, 293 curried sweetbreads, 292 Dresden patties, 576 fillets of mackerel, 63 fillets of mackerel i in wine, 64, 65 fillets of soles, 58 fillets of whitings, 60* fowl @ la Carlsfors, 262 Sricandeau of veal, 210 fricasseed fowls or ‘chickens, 264 fried chicken @ la Malabar, 266 hashed fowl, 266 agra! cutlets in their own gravy, 30 lamb or mutton cutlets, with soubise sauce, 235 loin of lamb stewed in butter, 235 minced fowl, 266 minced veal with oysters, 219 mutton cutlets in their own gravy, 229 mutton kidneys @ la Frangaise, 233 Oxford receipt for mutton kid- neys, 233 oyster patties, 349 oyster sausages, 8 patties @ la pontife and @ la cardinale, 350 pork cutlets, 241 a rissoles, 420 rissoles of fish, 420 Entrées, salmis of ‘game, 223-—224 savoury croquettes of rice, 418 savoury rissoles, 420 sausages and chestnuts, 251 scallops of fowl aw béchamel, 267 Sefton, a, or veal custard, 352 asian de veau, or veal cake, spring stew of veal, 211 stewed beefsteak, 174 stewed calf’s feet, 216 stewed duck, 269 stewed leg of lamb, with white sauce, 234 stewed oxtails, 181 stewed tongue, 191 sweetbread cutlets, 215 sweetbreads, stewed, fricasseed, or roasted, 215 truffled sausages, or saucisses aux truffies, 251 veal cutlets, 213 veal cutlets or collops @ la Fran- eaise, 214 veal cutlets @ ? Indienne, or In- dian fashion, 213 veal cutlets @ la mode de Lon- dres, or London fashion, 215 veal fricasseed, 220 vol-au-vent, 347 small vols-aw-vents, 351 Epicurean sauce, 136 Eschalots, to pickle, 508 to serve with venison, 274 Eschalot sauce, mild, 122 vinegar, 138 wine, 138 Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, 88 with wine, 89 Fairy Fancies (fantatisies de fées), 582 Fanchonnettes, 363 Fancy jellies, 439 Fennel sauce, 114 Feuilletage, or fine puff paste, 335 Fillets, of fowl, 265. 267 of mackerel boiled, 63 of mackerel, fried or broiled, 63 of mackerel stewed in wine, 65 * Fish is not usually served as an entrée in a common English dinner: it is, however, very admissible, either in fillets, or scallops, in a currie, or in a vol-au-vent. Various circumstance; must determine much of the general arrangement of a dinner, the same dishes answering at times for different parts of the service. For example, a fowl may be served as the roast for a small company, and for a large one as an entrée. For a plain family dinner, too, many dishes may be served in a different order to that which is set down. QQ 594 Fillets of soles, 58 of whitings, 60 Fillet of mutton, 227 of veal, boiled, 204 of veal, roast, 204 Finnan haddocks (to dress), 66 Fish, boiled, to render firm, 49 brine, for boiling, 49 to choose, 45 to clean, 47 to keep, 48 to keep hot for table, 49 to sweeten when tainted, 48 salt, to boil, 55 salt, d@ la maitre d’ hotel, 56 salt, in potato-pasty, 341 Flead, or fleed crust, 337 Flavouring, for sweet dishes, 139 lemon brandy (for sweet dishes), 139. Flounders, to boil, and fry, 67 Flour, browned. for thickening soups, &e., 130 Flour of potatoes (fecule de pommes de terre), 140 of rice, 141 Fondu, a, 413 Forced eggs, or eggs en surprise, 424 eggs, for salad, fowl, 262 turkey, 258 Forcemeats, general remarks on, 142 Forcemeat balls for mock turtle, No. b] chestnut, No. 15, 149 Mr. Cooke’s, for geese or ducks, N , good common, for veal, turkeys, &c. No. 1, 143 another good common, No. 2, 143 French, an excellent, No. 16, 149 French, called queneliles, No. 17, 150 for hare, No. 8, 146 mushroom, No. 7, 145 oyster, No. 5, 145 oyster, finer, No. 6, 145 for raised, and other cold pies, No. 18, 151 common, suet, No. 14, 144 superior suet, No. 3, 144 e Fourneau économique, or portable _. French furnace, 464, 465 Fowl, a, to bone, without opening it,254 to bone, another way, 255 to broil, 263 ad la Carlsfors, 262 Q curried, 289 fried, a la Malabar, 266 hashed, 266 minced (French receipt), 266 INDEX. Fowl, roast (French receipt), 262 to roast a, 261 scallops of, aw béchamel, 267 Fowls @ la mayonnaise, 268 to bone, for fricassees, curries, and pies, 256 boiled, 263 cutlets of, 265 fricasseed, 264 cold, en friture, 267 cold, grillade of, 268 ane ee housekeeper’s receipt, 8 French batter, for frying fruit, vege- tables, &c., 129 . melted butter, 98, 99 Miers cake, or Sally Lunn, crust, for hot or cold pies, 337 receipt for boiling a ham, 247 maitre d’hotel sauce, 106, 107 rice pudding, 397 partridges, 281 semoulina pudding, 395 salad, 315 salad dressing, 112 \ galmi, or hash of game, 283 thickening, or roux, 96 beans, @ la Francaise, 310 ee igi Aer excellent receipt for, beans, to boil, $10 Fresh herrings( Farleigh receipt for), 66 Fricandeau of veal, 210 Fried anchovies in batter, 81 bread -crumbs, 130 bread for garnishing, 130 canellons, 417 cod-fish, slices of, 54 Jerusalem artichokes, 328 mackerel, 63 parsneps, 327 potatoes, 303.571 salsify, 331 Fritters, apple or apricot, 416 brioche, 416 e cake, 415 Kentish, 414 lemon, 417_—_—i;. mincemeat (very good), 415 orange, 416 plain, common, 414 of plum-pudding, 415 potato, 417 of spring fruit (rhubarb), 416 — Venetian, 415 Fruit, to bottle for winter use, 463 creams, 446 en chemise, 539 isinglass jellies, 436. 438 stewed, 428, 430, 431 INDEX. Fruit tart, with royal icing, 353 Frying, general directions for, 162 Galantine of chicken, 255 Galette, 530 Game, to choose, 271 directions for keeping, 272 gravy of, 283 Garlic, mild ragout of, 122 recommended in sauces, 112 mutton served on, 224 vinegar, 138 Gdteaw of mixed fruits, 432 de pommes, 431 de semoule, or French semoulina pudding, 395 de riz, or French rice pudding, 397 Geneva buns, 5 rolls, 544 Genevese sauce, 108 Genoises, a la Reine, or her Majesty’s pastry, 355 Gentle Bere (the) courte a la créme, 57. German puffs, 455 pudding, 376 pudding sauce (delicious), 126 Gertrude @ la Créme, 448 Gherkins, to pickle, 503 to pickle, French receipt, 504 Ginger biscuits, cheap, 524 biscuits, Judge ‘Franks’ (very good), 525 bread, 522, 523, 524 candy, 585 wine (excellent), 554 Glaze, to make, 98 Glaze, to, pastry, 335 Glazing, directions for, 168 for fine pastry and cakes, 578 Goose, to deprive of its strong odour, 260 to roast, 260 to roast a green, 261 Gooseberries, to bottle for tarts, 470 dried, with sugar, 472 dried, without sugar, 473 jelly of, 471 Gooseberry jam, red, 470 jam, very fine, 471 jelly, 471, 472 paste, 472 pudding, 372, 400 sauce for mackerel, 115 Grape jelly, 490 Gravies, to heighten the colour and flavour of, 83 introductory remarks on, 82 _ shin of beef stock for, 84 595 Gravy, good beef or veal (English receipt), 86 common brown, 91 rich brown, 87 cheap, for a fowl, 90 another cheap, 91 curried, 294 Espagnole, highly-flavoured, 88 Espagnole with wine, 89 for a goose, 91 in haste, 90 jus he rognons, or kidney gravy, orange, for wild fowl, 92 veal, rich, deep-coloured, 86 veal, rich, pale, or consommée, 85 ‘ for venison, 87 another ditto, 87 rich, for venison, 88 sweet sauce, or gravy, for venison, 88 soup, or stock, clear, pale, 8 soup, cheap, clear, 9 soup, another receipt for, 9 Green apricots, stewed, 482 gage jam, or marmalade, 484 goose, to roast, 261 mint sauce, 116 mint vinegar, 137 orange plum, preserve of, 484 peas, @ la Frangaise, 309 peas, to boil, 309 peas, with cream, 310 peas-soup, cheap, 40 peas-soup, excellent, 39 peas-soup, without meat, 39 Groseiilée, 483 Ground rice puddings, 99, 400 in pudding-pies, 359 Grouse, to roast, 282 salmé of, 283 Grouse in soup, 34 Guava, English, 490 strawberry jelly, which resem- bles, 476 Guinea-fowl, to roast, 262 Haddocks, baked, 66 to boil, 65 Finnan, to dress, 66 to fry, 66 Hake, to dress, 60 Ham, to bake a, 247 » to boil a, 246 to boil a (French receipt), 247 potted, 296 Hams, Bordyke receipt for, 245 to pickle, 244 596 Hams, superior to Westphalia, 244 genuine Yorkshire receipt for, 242 Hamburgh pickle, for hams, beef, and tongues, 185 another pickle, for hams, beef, and tongues, 183 Hare, to choose, 272 forcemeat for, No. 8, 146 sweet gravy for, 276 in pie, 342 to roast, 274 to roast, superior receipt, 275 soup, superlative, 31 soup, a less expensive, 32 stewed, 276 Harricots blancs, 328 Harrico, Norman, 212 Hashed Dowtilli, 194 calf’s head, 201 fowl, 266 venison, 274 Hash, a, of cold beef or mutton (ex- cellent), 193 common, of cold beef or mutton, 193 cheap, of calf’s head, 201 Norman, 194 Haunch of mutton, to roast, 222 of venison, to roast, 272 Herrings, fresh, 66 red, a la Dauphin, 81 Iced pudding, Nesselréde, 461 Ice, advantage of, for jellies, fine paste, &e., 385 Icing, for tarts, Ke., 335 white or coloured, for fine pastry, . or cakes, 578 Imperatrice plums, to dry, 492 very fine marmalade of, 491 Imperial gooseberry fool, 452 Imperials, 515 Indian currie, common, 290 pudding, 408 Ingoidsby Christmas paiditie, 880 Trish stew, 231 Isinglass to clarify, 426 jelly, Constantia, 437 jelly, orange, 485 jelly, strawberry, and other fruit, 438 Italian. creams, 446 jellies, 489 meringues, 522 modes of dressing maccaroni, 421 pork cheese, 249 dam, apricot, 486 * barberry, 498 INDEX. Jam, cherry, 478 currant, green, 478 currant, red, superlative, 480 currant, white, a beautiful pre- serve, 481 gooseberry, red, 470 gooseberry, red, very fine, 471 green gooseberry, 470 of mixed fruits, 483 of Mogul plums, 485 peach (or nectarine), 488 raspberry, 477 eg gree very good, red or white, rhubarb, 468 strawberry, 475 i Jaumange, or jaune- manger, called also Dutch flummery, 448 Jellies, calf’s feet stock for, 425 to clarify caif’s feet stock for, 426 to clarify isinglass for, 426 meat, for pies and sauces, 92 cheaper meat, 93 Jelly, apple, 493 apple, exceedingly fine, 493 apple, calf’s feet, 334 barberry, 497 calf’s feet, 432, 484 lemon, calf’s feet, 487 orange, calf’s feet, 4385 orange isinglass, 436 Constantia, 487— black currant, common, 482 black currant, fine, 482 currant, red, 479 currant, red, French, 480 red currant superlative (Norman receipt), 479 currant, white, very fine, 481 damson, 489 green gooseberry, 469 ripe gooseberry, 472 raspberry, 478 strawberry (very fine), 476 John Dory, to boil a, 51 ; Judge Franks’ ginger biscuits, 525 Jumbles, 527 Kater’s, Captain, receipt for boiling potatoes, 302 Kentish, receipt for cutting up and curing a pig, 243 fritters, 414 suet pudding, 372 Kidneys, mutton, @ la Francaise, 232 mutton, to broil, 233 mutton Oxford receipt for, 233 Kidney, beef, to dress, 192 veal, fat “of, for pudding, 369 a en ee “ INDEX. Lady’s the, sauce for fish, 108 Lamb, cuilets, 2 leg of, with white sauce, 234 roast join of, 234 - loin of, stewed in butter, 235 to roast a quarter of, 233 roast saddle of, 234 sauce for, 234 Lard, to melt, 287 to preserve unmelted, for many months, 237 to, a pheasant, 167 Larding, general directions for, 166 Larding-pins, 166 Lardoons, 166 Leeks, to boil, 307 Lemonade, delicious, milk, 540 excellent, portable, 540 Lemon brandy, 139 cakes, 526 cheesecakes, 360 conserve, 501 creams, 445 dumplings, 387 fritters, 417 jelly, calf’s feet, 437 pickle, or catsup, 135 pudding, an excellent, 391 pudding, another receipt for, 391 sponge, or moulded cream, 451 ~ suet pudding, 391 tartlets, 306 Lemons in mincemeat, 357 to pickle, 506 Lettuces, in mayonnaise of fowls, 268 stewed, 307 in salads, 315 Limes, to pickle, 509 Lie, or ley, for washing pudding- cloths, 366 Liver, calf’s, fried, 217 to roast, 217 stoved, or stewed, Lobsters, to boil, 75 Lobster, or crab, buttered, 75 butter, 298 fricasseed, or au béchamel, 75 patties, salad, 573. 584 vol-au-vent, 348 Macaroons, almond, 514 cocoa-nut (very fine), 515 orange-flower, 514 Macaroncini, to boil and to choose, 579 Maccaroni, Genoa, to boil, 579 Neapolitan, to boil, 579 ribbon (or dazanges), to boil, 421 597 Maccaroni, to dress @ la Reine, 422 to dress in various ways, 421 with gravy, 421 soup, 11 sweet, 462 Mackerel, to bake, 62 to boil, 62 broiled whole, 64 fillets of, boiled, 63 - fillets of, broiled or fried, 63 fillets of, stewed in wine, 65 fried (French receipt), 63 Madeira cake, 519 Madeleine puddings, to serve cold, 897 Magnum bonum plumbs, to dry, or preserve, 485 Maitre d’hotel, sauce, cold, 107 sauce, French, 107 sauce, maigre, 107 tai eld (English receipt for), Majesty’s, her, pastry, 355 pudding, 375 Mandrang, or mandram, West In- dian receipt, 312 another receipt for, 312 Mangoes, Indian, 503 peach, 504 * Marmalade, apple, for Charlotte, 458 apricot, 486 barberry, 498 Imperatrice plum, 491 orange, 499 orange, genuine Scotch receipt for, 500 peach, 488 quince, 495 quince and apple, 496 Marrow bones, baked, 196 to boil, 195 Marrow in pudding, 374 clarified, to keep, 196 vegetable, to dress in various ways, 318 vegetable soup, 18 Mashed, artichokes, Jerusalem, 328 carrots, 327 parsneps (see turnips), 324 potatoes, 303 potatoes, crust of, for pasty, 340 gan (an excellent receipt for), 3 Mayonnaise, a delicious sauce to serve with cold meat, &c., 113 Mayor’s, the Lord, soup, 15 soup (Author’s receipt for), 15 Meat, jellies for, pies, 92. 93 pies, crust for, 337, 338 puddings, 368, 369 rolls, 351 Mélange of fruit for dessert, 589 598 Mélange, or mixed preserve, 483 Melon, to serve with meat, 314 sweet pickle of, to serve with roast meat (good), 505 Melted butter, 98, 99 Meringue of pears, or other fruit, 544 Meringues, 521 Italian, 522 Milk, cocoa-nut flavoured, for sweet dishes, 428 lemonade, delicious, 540 Mild eschalot sauce, 122 mustard, 129 ragout of garlic, or Vail @ la Bordelaise, 122 Minced, collops, 189, 190 fowl, 266 veal, 218 veal, with oysters, 219 Mincemeat, (Author’s receipt), 357 superlative, 357 fritters, 415 pudding; 382 Mince pies, 358 royal, 358 Miniature round of beef, 187 Mint julep, 552 sauce, 116 Miss Bremer’s pudding, 378 Mock, brawn, 248 turtle soup, 23 turtle soup, good old fashioned, 26 venison, 225 Modern blamange-mould, 447 cake-mould, 511_ - chicken pie, 843, jelly-mould, potato pasty, 344 Monitor’s at or tourte @ la Judd, 358 Moor game, to roast and hash, 282, 283 Mould for French pies, or casseroles of rice, 334 Mull, to, wine, an excellent receipt (French), 550 Mullagatawny soup, 34 vegetable, 37 Mullet, grey, to boil, 68 Penzance mode of dressing, 60 red, to bake, broil, or roast, 67 Mushroom catsup, 132 catsup, another receipt for, 18 catsup, double, 134 forcemeat, 145 powder, 140 sauce, brown, 118 sauce, another, 118 sauce, white, 118 care am croute aus champignons, ] 5 INDEX. Mushrooms, aw beurre, 320 - dried, 189 partridges with, 280 in pigeon pie, 344 pickled, in brine for winter use, 507 to pickle, 506 potted (delicious), 321 Mussel-plums, preserves of, 485 Mustard, to make, 129 Tartar, 128 horseradish vinegar for ditto, 138 Mutton, broth, 44 to choose, 221 cutlets broiled, and Sowbdise sauce, 235 cutlets, to broil, 230 cutlets, stewed in their own gravy, 229 fillet of, 227 haunch’ of, to roast, 222 kidneys @ la Francaise, 232 kidney, broiled, 233 kidneys, Oxford’ receipt for, 233 leg of, to boil (an excellent re- ceipt), 226 leg of, boned and forced, 224 leg of, braised, 224. leg of, roast, 293 leg of, roast (superior receipt for), 294 leg of, cold roast, 226 loin of, roast, 927 loin of, stewed like venison, 228 pie, common, 345 pie, good, 345 saddle of, to roast, 222 shoulder of, to bake with po- tatoes, 164 _ shoulder of, to roast, 228 shoulder of, forced, 229 shoulder of, spiced, 228 a good family stew of, 231 stock for soup, 14 Nasturtiums, to pickle, 509 Nesselréde cream, 441. pudding, 461 hee Norfolk cheesecakes, a sauce, 99 % Norman harricot, 212 — Nougat, 534 poh ae Nouitiles, to make, 5 : Old Bachelor’s, the, punch, 551 fashioned boiled custard, 452 —.. Oil, in sauces and salads, 113. 312. 315 INDEX. Olive sauce, 124. Omlette aux fines herbes, 410 souffiée, 411 Omlets, observations on, 409 Omlet, common, 410 Onion sauce, brown, 121 sauce, brown, another receipt for, 121 sauce, white, 121 and sage stuffing for ducks and geese, No. 9, 146 rich white sauce of, or Soubise, 121, 122 Onions, to pickle, 506 stewed, 332 Orange, baskets for jelly, 567 calf’s feet jelly, 435 cheesecakes, or pudding, 501 conserve, 501 fritters, 416 gravy, 92 isinglass jelly, 436 marmalade, plums, preserve of, 434 salad, 540 snowballs, 387 wine, 554 Orange-flower, candy, 536 ratafia, 548 Oranges, compote of (a Hebrew dish), 540 filled with jelly in stripes, 436 warmed, 540 Oven, American, 163 management of, 560 objection to iron ones, 561 Oxfurd receipt for Bishop, 549 for mutton kidneys, 233 punch, 548 Ox-tail, broiled, 181 stewed, 181 soup, 43 Ox tongue, to pickle, 183 potted, 297 Oyster forcemeat, No. 5, 145 patties, 349 sauce, common, 105 sauce, good, 104 sausages, 80 soup, white, or d la Reine, 30 Oysters, curried, 293 to feed, 78 to fry, 80 ' scalloped, d@ la Reine, 80 to scallop, 79 to stew, 78 to stew, another receipt, 79 Pain devworc frais, or sausage-meat , 250 599 Pain de veau, or veal cake, 209 Pain de veau (Bordyke receipt), 209 Palace-bonbons, 537 Palates, beef, to dress, 180, 181 Panada, No. 19, 151 Pancakes, 414 Parsley and butter, 114 to crisp, 127 fried, 127 kee dt for colouring sauces Parsneps to boil, 327 fried, 327 Partridge, broiled, 281 broiled (French receipt), 281 ph or red-legged, to dress, gravy, 230 potied, 297 pudding, 370 soup, 34 Partridges, boiled, 280 with mushrooms, 280 to roast, 279 salmi, or rich hash of, 283 salmi of (French), 283 Paste, almond, 355 brioche, 339 cherry (French), 475 currant, 481 gooseberry, 472 very good light, 336 English puff, 336 fine puff, or fewilletage, 335 quince, 496 Pastry, to colour almonds or sugar- grains for, 513 icing for, 335 sugar-icing for, 579 her Majesty’s, 355 general remarks on, 334. sandwiches, 362 Pasty, potato, 340 varieties of, 341 mould for, 330 Pate Brisée, or French crust for hot or cold pies, 337 Patties a la Cardinale, 351 a la Pontife, 350 good chicken, 350 oyster, 349 sweet boiled, 388 tartlets, or small vols-au-vents, tc make, 351 Peach, fritters, 416 jam, or marmalade, 488 mangoes, 504 Peaches, compote of, 430 to, dry, an easy and excellent Keeipt, 486 to pickle, 505 600 Peaches, preserved in brandy (Rotter- dam receipt), 566 stewed, a second receipt for, 430 Suédoise of, 458 vol-au-vent of, 349 Pears, baked, 552 meringue of, 457 Peas, green, to boil, 309 : green, with cream, 310 green, soup of, 39, 40 green, stewed, @ la Francaise, 310 pudding, 575 soup, common, 42 soup, without meat, 42 soup, rich, 41 — Tarch, to boil, 73 to fry, 73 Pheasant, boudin of, 278 to roast, 278 sali of, 283 soup, 82 34 Pickle, for beef, tongues, and hams, 183 : Pickle t6, barberries, 510 beet-root, 508 cherries, 503 eschalots, 508 se gherkins, 504 3 gherkins (French ma 504 limes, 509 lemons, 509 * mushrooms in brine, 507 mushrooms (an excellent receipt), 50! nasturtiums, 509 onions, 508 ~ peaches, and peach mangoes, 504 pork, 183 red cabbage, 510 Siberian crabs, 510 walnuts, 507 ° Pickles, where to be procured good, 503 general remarks on, 502 Pie, beef-steak, 344 a common chicken, 344 a modern chicken, 343 a good common English game, 342 mutton, common, 345 a good mutton, 345 pigeon, 344 Pies, excellent bread-crust for, 565 good crust for, 337 suet-crust for, 338 meat jelly for, 92 mince, 358 mince royal, 358 pudding, 359 © raised, 346 _ INDEX. Pigeons, to boil, 270 to roast, 270 = served with cresses, for second. course, 270 Pig, divisions. of, 23 to bake a sucking, 239 sucking, en blanguectie, 239 to roast a sucking, 238 a la Tartare, 239 Pig’s cheeks, to pickle, 244 feet and ears, in brawn, 248 Pike, to bake, 72 to bake (superior receipt) 7 to boil, 71 Pintail, or Sea Pheasant, to roast, 285 Pippins, Normandy, to stew, 541 Piquante sauce, 109 Pistachio nuts, to ornament eeet dishes, 442 Plaice, to boil, 67 to fry, 67 Plum-puddings, 381, 382 . Plums, compote of, 430 Poélée, 154 Poet’s the, receipt for salad, 578 Polenta (an Italian dish), good, 423 Pommes au beurre, or buttered apples, 459 Pontac catsup, 186 Poor author’s pudding, 407 Poor curate’s pudding, 576. ~Poor man’s sauce, 111 Pork, to choose, 236 cutlets of, to broil or fry, 241 Italian cheese of, 249 observations on, '236 to pickle, 183 to roast, 240 to roast a saddle of, 240 sausages of, 250, 251 Portable, lemonade, 540 Potage @ la Reine, 29 Pot-au-Feu, or stock pot, 6 fowls &c., boiled in, 6 Potato-balls (English), 304 boulettes (good), 304 bread, 551 fritters, 417 flour, ‘or fecule de pommes de terre, 140 pasty (modern), 340 puddings, 400, 401 ribbons, to serve with cheese, §71 : rissoles, French, 304 soup, 20 Potatoes, @ la créme, 805 a la mattre @hotel, 305 to boil (genuine Irish receipt), 300 to boil (Lancashire receipt), 301 INDEX. Potatoes, to boil (Captain Kater’s re- ceipt), 302 fried, 303 mashed, and moulded in various ways, 303 new, in butter, 302 new, to boil, 301 to roast, or bake, 802 scooped, 302 Potted anchovies, 297 cyrapiny partridge, or pheasant, ham, 296 lobster, 298 meats (various), 295 meat, for the second course, 584 mushrooms, 321 , OX-tongue, 297 shrimps, 298 Poultry, to bone, 254 to choose, 253 observations on keeping, 258 to lard, 167 Powder, mushroom, 140 of savoury herbs, 141 Prawns, to boil, 77 to pot (see shrimps), 298 Prepared apple or quince juice, 427 calf’s head (the cook’s receipt),199 Preserve, a, fine, of red currants, 480 delicious, of white currants, 481 an excellent, of the green orange, or Stonewood plum, 484 groseillée, a mixed, 483 eae good mélange or mixed, nursery, 482 Preserve to, the colour and flavour of fruit-jams, and jellies, 467 Preserving-pan, 466 ; Preserves, French furnace and stew- pan, convenient for making, 464, 465 ange rules and directions for, Pruneaux de Tours, or compote of dried plums, 541 Prince Albert’s pudding, 376 Pudding (baked), @ éa@ Paysanne, 408 almond, 390 apple (or custard), 402 another apple, 402 common apple, 402 apple and rice, 407 Bakewell, 392 barberry and rice, 406 good bread, 394, 395 common bread and butter, 394 rich bread and butter, 393 damson and rice, 406 the Duchess’s, 401 601 Pudding, the elegant economist’s, 393 Essex, cheap and good, 403 Gabrielle’s, or sweet casserole of rice, 403 green gooseberry, 400 good ground rice, 399 a common ground rice, 400 hasty, 408 Indian, 408 lemon, 391 an excellent lemon, 391 lemon-suet, 391 Normandy, 406 poor author’s, 407 poor curate’s, 576 (baked), potato, 400 a richer potato, 401 the printers’, 390 the publishers’, 374 a common raisin, 407 a richer raisin, 407 raspberry, or Dutch custard, 403 ratafia, 392 _ ; @ common rice, 398 a French rice, or Gdteau de riz, _ 397 ice, meringué, 399 2 good semoulina, 395 @ French semoulina (or Gdieas de semoule), 895 sponge cake, 401 vermicelli, 404 common Yorkshire, 406 good Yorkshire, 405 Pudding (boiled) @ la Scoones, 380 apple, cherry, currant, or any other fresh fruit, 372 @ common apple, 373 the author’s Christmas, 382 common batter, 370 another batter, 371 batter and fruit, 371 beef-steak, or John Buil’s, 368 beef-steak, epicurean receipt for, 369 small beef-steak, 69 a black cap, 371 Ruth Pinch’s, or beef-steak pud- ding, @ la Dickens, 389 superlative beef-steak, 369 bread, 384 brown bread, 384 Bremer’s, Miss, 378 cabinet, 377 a very fine cabinet, 377 cottage Christmas, 381 common custard, 375 small custard, 375 the elegant economist’s, 380 German pudding and sauce, 376 602 Puddings, Ingoldsby ‘. tmas pud- dings, 380 her Majesty’s, 375 an excellent small mincemeat, 382 mutton, 370 partridge, 370 peas, 575 small light plum, 381 another small light plum, 381 vegetable plum, 3882 _ : a very good raisin, 379 a superior raisin, 379 a cheap rice, 385 a good rice, 385 rice and gooseberry, 885 rolled, 383 a cheap suet, 372 another suet, 372 Kentish suet, 372 tomata, 386 a well, 383 Puddings, general. directions for, baked, 389 to mix batter for, 366 general directions for — 364 ! , boiled, butter crust for, 367 cloths for, to wash, 366 suet-crust, for, 367 to clean currants for, 366 ~— small cocoa-nut, 40 Madeleine, to serve cold, 307 Sutherland, or castle, 396 Pudding-pies, 359 a common receipt for, 359 Puff-paste, canellons of, 417 English, 336 finest, or feuillétage, 385 very good light, 336 Puffs a pra ta§ (extremely good), German, 445 raspberry, or other fruit, 369 Punch, old bachelor’s, 551 Oxford, 548 Regent’s, or George IV.’s (a ge- nuine receipt), 551 sauce for sweet puddings, 126 Purée of artichokes, 123 Swit fine, of onions, or Soubise sauce, 121, 122 of tomatas, 320 of turnips, 123 : of vegetable marrow, 123 Quenelles, or French forcemeat, 150 Queen cakes, 527 Queen’s custard, 454 INDEX. Queen Mab’s pudding, 440 Quince blamange, 448 blamange, with almond cream, 449 custards, 454 jelly, 494 juice, prepared, 427 marmalade, 495 paste, 496 ah Rabbits, to boil, 277 Rabbit, to fry, 277 to roast, 277 soup, @ la Reine, 30 soup, brown, 31 Radishes, turnip, to boil, 307 Raisin puddings, 379. 407 wine, which resembles foreign, 553 Ramakins @ l’ Ude, 363 Raspberries, to preserve for creams or ices, without boiling, 477 Raspberry jam, 477 jam, red or white, 476 jelly, for flavouring creams, 478 jelly, another good, 478 vinegar, very fine, 547 Ratafia, orange flower, 548 pudding, 392 Red cabbage, to stew, 330 Regent’s, or George IV.’s punch, (ge- nuine), 551 Rein-Deer tongues, to dress, 577 Remoulade, 118 ere or spring fruit, compote of, 28 Rice, to boil for curries, or mullaga- tawny soup, 36, 37 boiled, to serve with fruit, &c., 388 cake, 51 casserole of, savoury, 342 casserole of, sweet, 403 croquettes of, 418, 419 savoury croquettes of, 419 puddings, 385, 397, 398, 399 soup, 12 soup, white, 13 sweet, @ la Portugaise, or aroc® docé, 460 Rice-flour, to make, 141 soup, 13 to thicken soups with, 4 Rissoles, 420 of fish, 420 very savoury, 420 Roasting, general directions for, 155 slow method of, 157 ‘Roast beef, (see Chapter VIII.) chestnuts, 543 game, (see Chapter XIII.) stewed ee a no a INDEX. Roast lamb, (see Chapter X.) mutton, (see Chapter X.) potatoes, 302 pork, (see Chapter XI.) poultry, (see Chapter XII,) veal, (see Chapter IX.) _ Rolled, calf’s head, 199 shoulder of mutton, 228, 229 shoulder of yeal, 207 ribs of beef, 184 sirloin of beef, 179 Roll, beef, or canellon de boeuf, 188 Rolls, Geneva, 564 Roux, or French thickening brown, 96 white, 96 Rusks, brioche, 565 Rusks, 564 Sago, moulded, with apple-juice, 583 soup, 12 Salad, to dress, 314 French, 315 lobster, 573 very elegant lobster, 584 orange, 540 peach, 540 Suffolk, 315 walnut, or des cerneaux, 315 Yorkshire ploughman’s, 315 dressings, and sauces, 111, 112 Salamander to brown with, 169 Salmi of moor fowl, pheasants or partridges, 283 : French, or hash of game, 288 of wild fowl, 285 . Salmon, @ la Genevese, 52 & la St. Marcel, 58 to bake, 164 to boil, 52 to broil, 167 crimped, 52 in potato pastry, 340 to roast, 164 Salsify, to boil, 331 to fry in batter,-331 Salt fish, to boil, 55 a la Maitre @hotel, 56 Salt to, beef, in various ways, 182, 183 limes and lemons, for pickling, Sauce, anchovy, 105 baked apple, 120 boiled apple, 120 brown apple, 120 artichoke, 123 asparagus, for lamb cutlets, 115 béchamel, 97 béchamel maitgre, 98 602 Sauce, another common déchamel, 98 bread, 102 bread, with onion, 108 caper, 116 brown caper, 116 caper for fish, 117 celery, 124 brown chestnut, 125 white chestnut, 125 Chetney, 132 Christopher North’s own. (for many meats), 110 cream, for fish, 106 common cucumber, 117 another common cucumber, 117 white cucumber, 117 Dutch, 102 common egg, 101 egg, for calf’s head, 109 very good egg, 100 epicurean, 136 mild eschalot, 122 Espagnole, 88 _Espagnole, with wine, 89 fennel, 114 see, 102 vese, or sauce Genevoise, 08 _ German, for fricassees, 97 tooseberry, for mackerel, 115 _horse-radish, excellent, to serve hot or cold, with roast heef, 109 hot horse-radish, 110 the lady’s, for fish, 108 common lobsier, 103 good lobster, 104 Maitre Whotel, sauce, 107 cold Maitre @hotel, 107 Maitre Whotel sauce maigre, 107 sharp Maitre d’hotel, 103 mayonnaise (very fine), to serve with cold meat, fish, or vege- tables, 113 green mint for roast lamb, 116 brown mushroom, 118 another mushroom, 118 - white mushroom, 118 Norfolk, 99 olive, 124 brown onion, 121 another brown onion, 121 white onion, 121 common oyster, 105 good oyster, 104 piquante, 109 poor man’s, 111 common pudding, 126 = delicious, German pudding, 126 or steward’s ~ 604 sweet pudding, 125 the Rajah’s, 130 remoulude, 113 Robert, 109 shrimp, 105 common sorrel, 115 Soubise, 121 Soubise, French receipt, 122 Spanish, 88 common tomata, 118 a finer tomata, 119 INDEX. Sauce punch, for sweet puddings, 126 | Solimemmne, a, or rich French breake fast cake, 519 Sorrel sauce, 115 Sougié, Louise Franks’ citron, 412 rice, 412 Soufié-pan, 400 Sougiés, remarks on, 411 small sugar, 544 Sounds, cods’, to boil, 56 to fry ‘in batter, 56 Soup, apple, 20 artichoke, or Palestine, 18 good calf’s head, not expensive, tournée, or thickened pale gravy, excellent titrnip, 123 very common white, 101 English white, 101 Saucisses @ Vail, or garlic-flavoured sausages, 252 Que prunes, or truffied sausages, Ay eee Sausage-meat, cake of, 250 in chicken-pie, 343 to make, 250, 251 boned turkey, filled with, 258 Sausage-soup (Swedish), 577 Sausages, boiled, 251 : and chestnuts (an excellei nt 251 ion Savoury Cone 571 Scotch marmalade, 500 Scottish short-bread, excellent, 582 Sea-kale to boil, 305 stewed in gravy, 305 -Sea-pheasant, or pintail, to roast, 285 Sefton, a, oe vrs, 352 3 Sefton fancies, 36 Shad, Touraine fashion, 70 Shrimp sauce, 105 toasts, 77 Shrimps, to boil, 77 eroquettes of, 571 potted, 298 Short crust (excellent) for sweet pastry, 581 Sippets @ la Reine, 5 fried, 5 Sirloin of beef, to roast, 170 stewed, 179 : Smelts to bake, 68 to fry, 68 Snipes, to roast, 284 Soda cake, 555 Soles, “eth or au plat, 59 to boil, to sade 45 fillets of, 58 to fry, 57 stewed in cream, 59 27 common carrot, 18 a finer carrot, 19 chestnut, 17 cocoa-nut, 17 cucumber, 38 clear, pale gravy, 8 another gravy, 9 cheap, clear gravy, 9 superlative hare, 31 a less expensive hare, 32 in haste, 44 the Lord Mayor’s, 15 the Lord Mayor’s (Author’s re- ceipt for), 15 maccaroni, 11 milk, with vermicelli, 45 mock turtle, good ee fashioned mock turtle, mullagatany, 34 vegetable mullagatawny, 37 , mutton stock for soups, 14 oxtail, 43 white oyster, or oyster-soup @ la Reine, 80 parsnep, 21 another parsnep, 21 partridge, 34 common peas, 42 peas, without meat, 42 rich peas, 41 a cheap green peas, 40° an excellent green peas, 39 green peas, without meat, 39 pheasant, 32 another pheasant, 34 potage aux nouilles, or taillerine soup, 12 potage ala Reine, 29- potato, 20 rabbit @ la Reine, 30 brown rabbit, 31 Trice, 12 rice flour, 18 white rice, 18 sago, 12 sausage (Swedish receipt), 877 INDEX. » Soup, semoulina (or soup @ la , Semoule), 11 a cheap and good stew, 43 tapioca, 12 common turnip, 19 @ quickly made turnip, 20 vermicelli (or potage au vermi- celle), 10 Westerfield white, 21 a richer white, 22 Soups, introductory remarks on, 1 to fry bread to serve with, 4 nouilles to serve in, 5 to thicken, 3 vegetable vermicelli for, 5 Spanish sauce, or Espagnole, 88 sauce with wine, 89 Spiced beef, 185, 186 Spinach, @ VP Anglaise, or English fashion, 306 common English modes, of dress- ing, 307 French receipt for, 306 green, for colouring sweet dishes, C., Steaks, beef, 172 Steaming, general directions for, 157 Stewed beef, sirloin of, 179 beef-steak, 172, 174, 175 beef-steak, in its own gravy, 175 __ beet-root, 330 - eabbage, 330 calf’s feet, 216 calf’s liver, 578 carp, 584 celery, 332 chestnuts, 332 cod fish, 54, 55 cucumber, 313 eels, 74 ee (various), 428, 429, 430, 31 hare, 276 lamb cutlets, 235 leg a lamb with white sauce, 2 -loin of lamb, in butter, 235 lettuces, 307 mackerel, in wine, 64 fillets of mackerel, in wine (ex- cellent), 65 mutton cutlets, in their owr gravy, 229 loin of mutton, 228 mushrooms, 321 onions, 332 oxtails, 181 ox, or beef tongue (Bordyke re- ceipt), 190 oysters, 78 sea-kale in gravy, 305 605 Stewed, soles in cream, 59 tomatas, 318 trout, 70 turnips in butter, 325 turnips in gravy, 325 knuckle of veal, with rice or green peas, 208 shoulder of veal, 207 shoulder of venison, 273 Stew, a good English, 177 a good family, 231 a German, 176 an Irish, 231 Spring stew of veal, 211 a Welsh, 176 . Stew to, shin of beef, 177 arump of beef, 179 Stewing, general directions for, 158 Stock, clear pale, 8 for white soup, 13 mutton, for soups, 14 shin of beef, for gravies, 84 veal, for white soups, 8 Store-flavouring, for puddings, cakes, and sweet dishes, 139 Store-mixture for lemon tartlets, which will remain good for a year or two, 568 ‘Store sauces, from page 131 to 141 Strawberries, to preserve, for favour- » ing creams, &c., 477 Strawberry, acid royal, 548 jam, 475 jelly, 476 isinglass jelly, 488 tartlets, 567 vinegar, of delicious flavour, 545 Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt), 107 Stuffing for geese and ducks, No. 9, 146 Cook’s stuffing for geese and ducks, 147 Suédoise, or apple hedgehog, Suédoise of peaches, Sugar-glazings, and icings, for fine pastry and cakes, 578 barley, 534 Sugar, to boil, from candy to carae mel, to clarify, 532 in grains, to colour, 513 sovpjlés, small, 544 Sweetbreads, to dress, 215 a la Maitre Whotel, 215 cutlets of, 215 Us roasted, 215 Sweet, patties d la minute, 570 Syllabub, a birthday, 550 Syllabubs, superior whipped, 446 Syrup, fine currant, or sirop de grosetlles, 547 606 Tamarinds acid, in curries, 287 Tapioca soup, 12 Tarragon vinegar, 137 Tart, a good apple, 354 creamed apple, 354 barberry, 354 German, 352 the monitor’s, 359 Tartlets, of almond paste, 356 to make, 35] strawberry, 554 creamed, 567 Tarts, to ice, 335 Tench, to fry, 73 Tipsy cake, 444 — Toasting, directions for, 168 Toffie, Everton, 537 Toffie, another. way, 537 Tomata catsup, 136 sauces, 118, 119 Tomatas, forced, 318 purée of, 320 roast, 318 en salade, 318 stewed, 318 Tongue, to boil, 191 to stew, 191 Tongues, to pickle, 133. 190 rein-deer, to dress, 575 Tourte, a la Judd, 359 gentle critic’s, or creamed Tourte Impériale, 574 meringuée or with royal icing, 353 Trifle brandy, or tipsy cake, 444 an excellent, 442 Swiss, very good, 443 Trout, to stew (a good common re- ceipt), 70— in wine, 71 Truffled omlet, 572 sausages, Truffles, @ l’Italienne, 323 with champagne, @ la serviette, : 822 in patties, 350 Turbot, to boil, 49 au béchamel, 51 ad la créme, 51 Turkey, to boil, 257 boned and forced, 258 to bone, 254 a la Flamande, 259 to roast, 256 Turnip radishes, to boil, 307 soups, 19, 20 Turnips to boil, 324 to mash, 324 stewed in butter, 325 in gravy, 225 in white sauce, 324 INDEX. * Vanilla rita: pudding, &e., 875, 1 & Veal, blanquette of, with mushroons, 218 boiled breast of, 206 roast breast of, 206 cakes, 209 ~ to choose, 197 custard, or Sefton, 352 cutlets, 213 cutlets, or collops, @ la Fran- eaise, 214 cutlets, @ U’Indienne, or Indian fashion, 213 cutlets, @ la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 215 boiled fillet of, 204 roast fillet of, 204 _ \ fricandeau of, 210 . fricasseed, 220 ' : a Sa of London receipt,) 576 boiled knuckle of, 208 knuckle of, en ragout, 208 knuckle of, with rice or green peas, 208 boiled loin of, 205 roast loin of, 204 stewed loin of, 205 minced, 218 minced, with oysters (or mush- rooms), 219 _ to bone a shoulder of, 206 stewed shoulder of, 207 spring stew of, 255 Sydney, 265 Vegetable marrow, to boil, fry, mash, &e., 318 Vegetables, brine for boiling, 300 to clear insects from, 300 to keep fresh, 299 Velouté, 98 Venetian cake, (super excellent), 580 cakes, 580 fritters, (very good), 415 Venison, to choose, 271 to ‘hash, 274 a common hash of, 274 a” mock, 225 to roast a haunch of, 272 sauces for, 87, 88 to stew a loin:of mutton like, 228 to stew a shoulder of, 273 . Vermicelli, Neapolitan, to boil, 579 to choose, 579 pudding, 404 soup, 10 Vinegar, ‘cayenne, 139 celery, 137 - cucumber, 137 eschalot, or garlic, 138 Sy > eee ae ae ee Sn ee INDEX. 607 Vinegar, horse-radish, 188 green mint, 137 raspberry (very fine), 547 strawberry (delicious), 545 tarragon, 137 Vol-au-vent, a, 347 Vol-au-vent, a la créme, 349 Vol-au-vent, a, of fruit, 349 Vols-au-vents, @ la Howitt, 362 small, to make, 351 Walnut catsup, 184, 135 Walnuts, to pickle, 507 salad of, 315 Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt), 69 White bait (Greenwich receipt), 69 Whitings, ee a la Frangaise, 61 to boil, 6 to fry, 60 fillets of, 60 Wild ducks, to roast, 285 Wild ducks salmi, or hash of, 285 Wine, elderberry, (good), 553. eschalot, 188 ginger, 554 to mull (an excellent French re- ceipt), 550 orange, 554 oe ee ge resembles foreign, Wine-vase, antique, 545 Woodcock in pudding, 369 Woodcocks, or snipes, to roast, 284 Yeast, to Sate for bread or cakes, 560 Yorkshire ploughman’s salad, 315 pudding, common, 406 pudding, good, 405 Zest, the doctor’s, 14] INDEX TO CARVING AND TRUSSING. Carving, directions for, xxxvii Carve, to, a brill, xxxviii a brisket of beef, xxxix ribs of beef, xxxix No. 6, a sirloin of beef, xxxix No. 18, a calf’s head, xli No. 1, cod’s head and shoulders, XXXVii ducks, xlvi No. 28, a wild duck, xlvii No. 16, a boiled fowl, xliii No. 17, a roast fowl, xliv No. 22, a goose, xlvi haddocks, xxxviii No. 14, a ham, xlii No. 25, a hare, xlvii a John Dory, xxxviii No. 8, a quarter of lamb, xl mackerel, xxxviii No. 5, a haunch of mutton, xxxix No. 7, leg of mutton, xl No. 4, saddle of mutton, xxxviii No. 9, shoulder of mutton, xl No. 18, a partridge, xliv No. 15, a pheasant, xliii pike, xxxviii_ No. 10, a sucking pig, xl No. 20, a pigeon, xlv No. 3, salmon, xxxviii salmon-peel, xxxviii soles, xxxvili No. 21, a snipe, xlvi. No. 12, a tongue, xli No. 2, a turbot, xxxviii No. 24, a turkey, xlvii No. 11, a breast of veal, x a fillet of veal, xli a loin of veal, xli No. 5, a haunch of venison, xxxix No. 19, a woodcock, xlv Trussing, general directions for, xxxiii XXXiv. XXXV. Xxxvi Truss, to, a fowl, partridge, pheasant, or turkey, for roasting, xxxv hares, or rabbits, xxxv joints of meat, xxxvi a woodcock, or snipe, xlv * GORY INDEX. * INDEX TO APPENDIX II. Chickens, to render, white for boiling, | Maize pudding, 584¢ 584g Mush, or porridge of maize-meal, 584f Eels, broiled with sage, 5843 Polenta @ ?’Italienne, 584f Eggs, to poach, 584a pudding of, 584e poached with gravy, 584b sweet pudding of, 584e Indian corn, observations on, 584f Pudding, to steam a, in a common stew- Lobster cutlets, 584¢ pan, 584 y patties, superlative, 584d Shrimps, potted, whole, 584q sausages, 584d Soles curried, 584a ‘ Lobsters, potted, 584c y Soup a la Julienne, 584h potted in stripes, 584c spring, 584% * ‘ 5 . ) 78) January, 1847. A CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS PRINTED FOR MESSRS. LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS, LONDON. CLASSIFIED INDEX. AGRICULTURE & RURAL AFFAIRS. Pages Bayldon on Valuing Rents,etce. = - 6 Bray’s Essay on Agriculture, etc. - —iey Crocker’s Land Surveying - : <9 Davy’s Agricultural Chemistry - =e Johnson’s Farmer’s Encyclopedia - - 16 Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Agriculture - 18 Self-Instruction for Farmers,etc. 18 3 (Mrs.) Lady’sCountry Companion 18 Low’s Breeds ofthe DomesticatedAnimals 19 x5 Elements of pericaliare . ec ae o) On Landed Property - - 19 3 On the Domesticated Animals - 19 Parnellon Roads - - - 23 Thomson on Fattening Cattle, ete. - - 29 Topham’ s Agricultural Chemistry - 30 Whitley’s Agricultural Geology : - 32 ARTS; MANUFACTURES, AND ARGHITECTURE. Brande’s Dictionary of Science,etc. - 7 Bray’s Essay on Manufactures, etc. ores Buckler’s St. Alban’s Abbey - - es Budge’s Miner’s Guide - - - errs Cartoons (The Prize) = sat) Cresy’s Encycl., of Civil Engineering - 9 De Burtin on the eee of Pictures 9 Dresden Gallery - - 10 Gwilt’s Encyclopedia of Architecture - J3 Haydon’s Lectures on Painting & Design 13 Holland’s Manufacturesin Metal - 14 Lerebours On Bhotasrspky - - - 17 Loudon’s Rural Architecture - - - 18 Moseley’s Engineering and Architecture 22 Parnell on Roads - - - - 23 Porter’s Manufacture of Silk - - - 24 Porcelain & Glass 24 Reid’ (Dr.) on Warming and Ventilating 25 Steam Engine (The), by the Artisan che 5 Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, ete. - 31 Wilkinson’s Engines of War - - - 32 BIOGRAPHY . Aikin’s Life of Addison - - pe Bell’s Lives of the British Poets - += 56 Dover’s Life of the King of Prussia - > 19 Dunham’s Early Writers of Britain - lg Lives ofthe British Dramatists 19 Forster’s Statesmen ofthe Commonwealth 1 1 Life of Jebb - “ - i Gleig” s British Military Commanders - 12 Grant (Mrs.) Memoir and Correspondeuce 12 James’s Lifeof the Black Prince - = 15 Eminent Foreign Statesmen =" 15 LAl’s (M.) Life of Dost Mohammed - - 2) Leslie’s Life of Constable = = 17 Mackintosh’s Life of SirT, More - - 19 Maunder’s BiographicalTreasury - 21 Roscoe’s Lives of Eminent British Lawyers Russell’s Bedford Correspondence Shelley’s Literary Men of Italy, etc. - Eminent French Writers - Southey’ s Lives of the British Admirals - Ss Life of Wesley - - - - Townsend’s Twelve Eminent Judges = Waterton’s Autobiography and Essays - BOOKS OF GENERAL UALIEY Acton’s (Eliza) Cookery Book - Black’s Treatise on Brewing - Collegian’s Guide - Donovan’s Domestic Economy. Hand-Book of Taste - Hints on Etiquette ~ - Hudson’s Parent’s Hand- Book »» Executor’sGuide. _- F3 On Making Wills : Loudon’s Self Instruction - (Mrs.) Amateur Gardener Maunder’s Treasury of Knowledge = 9 Scientificand Literary Treasury 93 Treasury of History - 5 Biographical fet Lag ats - Parkes’s Domestic Duties Pycroft? s Course of English Reading Reader’s Time Tables - Riddle’s Eng. -Lat. and Lat. KHe. Dict. Robinson’s Art of Curing, peeCRRAL, Ae Rowton’s Debater - - Short Whist - - - Thomson’s Management of Sick Room - Interest Tables - - - Tomlins? Law Dictionary - ~- - - Walker’s Dictionary, by Smart - - Webster’s Encycl, of Domestic Economy BOTANY AND GARDENING. Abercrombie’s Practical Gardener - and Main’s Gardener Calleott’s ScriptureHerbal = - Conversations on Botany - C Drummond’s First Steps to Botany: Henslow’s Botany -~ Hoare On the Grape Vine on Open Walls 9», Onthe Roots of Vines - - Hooker’s British Flora = - - Jackson’s Pictorial Flora - = - Lindley’s Theory of Horticulture - 3 Orchard and Kitchen Garden ” Introduction to Boreny - Flora Medica’ - ae Synopsis of British Florace - Loudon’s Hortus Britannicus - ° - aa Hortus Lignosus Londinensis - », Encyclopedia of Trees & Shrubs os ” Gardening - aS Plants - - A. Suburban Gardener - =~ x Self-Instruction for Gardeners (Mr.) Amateur Gardener - - Repton’ s Landscape Gardening, etc. < 'eee6 6 op@aeaeeuet London; Printed by M. Mason, Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row. 21 21 : a 2 CLASSIFIED INDEX 3 Pages Pages Rivers’s Rose Amateur’s Guide - > 26 Maury’s Statesmen of America - 21 Roberts on the Vine - = 8 = = 26 Milner’s Church History - - - 21 Rogers’s Vegetable Cultivator - ° - 26 Moore’s History of Ireland - - 22 5: Schleiden’s Scientific Botany - - - 26 Mosheim’s Ecclesiastical History = 22 Smith’s Introduction to Bowny: : - 2 Nicolas’s Chronology of History - Smith’s English Flora = Ranke’s History of the Reformation »> Compendium of English Flora 27 Rome, History of - - - Russell’s Bedford Correspondence - CHRONOLOCY. Scott’s History of Scotland = - = oe eo dade 8 ho w r i 3s a Sinnett’s Byways of History - Nees cheno ee Soe ae Stebbing’s History of the Christian Church a Riddle’s Ecclesiastical Chronology « - 25 ” see Sherpas ead 21 - - -= 99 ee md z Tate’s Horatius Restitutus 29 Switzerland, Histeryof ae 28 COMMERCE AND MERCANTILE Be ee . 29 AFFAIRS. aoOks s History of Paless On t A ties - ae cG ‘urner’s History of England - Gilbart On Banking Sy pres = = 49 Tytler’s Elements of General Hintary. 31 M‘Culloch’s Dictionary of Commerce = 2 Zumpt’s LatinGrammar - - 32 Reader’s Time Tables - - - - 26 Steel’s Shipmaster’s Assistant - + - 28 JUVENILE BOOKS. Thomson’s Tables of Interest - - - 30 A . Walford’s Customs’ Laws - - «81 my Herbert - = Boy’s (The) Own Rok i here ee 7 "GEOGRAPHY AND ATLASES. sere oe a Gower’s Scientific Phenomens - - 12 Butler’s Ancient and Modern Geography 7 Hawes’s Tales of the N. AmericanIndians 13 9, Atlas of Modern Geography mii, Howitt’s Boy’s Country Book - - - 15 Ao »5 AncientGeography - 8 Laneton Parsonage - - - 16 General Geography. - 8 Mackintosh’s Life of Sir T. More eee tS) Cooley’s World Surveyed - - a Marcet’s Conversations— De Strzelecki’s New South Wales - On the History of England Forster’s Historical Geography of maebia, 11 On Chemistry : : 20 Hall’s Large General Atlas - - 13 On Natural Philosophy Sete - 20 M‘Culloch’s Geographical Dictionary - 20 On Political Economy - atid ety M‘Leod’s Sacred Geography ~- = 20 On Vegetable Physiology - - = 20) Murray’s Encyclopedia of Geograp hy =e On Land and Water - - - - 20 Ordnance Maps, and Dablicanons: of the On Language - - - - 20 Geological Society - - - - 23 Marryat’s Masterman Ready - i ee U Parrot’s Ascent of Mount Ararat < - 8 a Priva! eer’s-Man - - - 20 on Settlersin Canada - - - 20 HISTORY AND CRITICISM. Mission; or, Scenesin Africa 20 Adair’s (Sir R.) Mission to Vienna - ie Pycroft’ s Course of English Reading - 24 ue Constantinople - - - - 5 Bell’s History of Russia - ee - 6 MEDICINE « Blair’s Chron. and Historica Ta es ie Bull’s Hints to Mothers 9 Seas, Mere Bloomfield’s Translation of Thucydides - 6 », Management of Chil ren “ 2 ! Edition of Thucydides - 6 Copland’s Dictionary of Medicine - - 9 Cooley’s Maritime and Inland Discovery 8 Elliotson’s Human Physiology 27h SL Crowe’s History of France 9 Esdaile’s MesmerisminIndia - - ~+ 11 j De Sismondi’s Fail of the Roman Empire 10 Holland’s Medical Notes - ae Nirah Sa Italian Republics - 10 Lane’s Water Cure at Malvern ~ ae 16 Dunham’ s History of Spain and Portugal, 10 Pereira On Food and Diet = ee aa 39 History ee ae Ns ig Reece’s MedicalGuide - + - = 25 ; r ry mpir Th Food = - - - = : es Denmark, Sweden,and Norway 10 maheues ry! - History of Poland - - =el0 j Dunlop’ s History of Fiction - - 10 MISCELLANEOUS. Eccleston’s English Antiquities . - 10 Adshead. on Prisons - = = . Fergus’s United States of America = 11 Bray’s Philosophy of Necessity Se Grant (Mrs. ) Memoir and Cotespongence, 12 Social Systems - - - Grattan’s History of Netherlands - 12 Cartoons (The Prize) - - - - Grimblot’s William III. and Louis XIV. 12 Clavers’s Forest Life - - - - Guicciardini’s Hist. Maxims - - - 1 Cocks’s Bordeaux, its Wines, etc. - - Haisted’s Life of Richard IIT. - - 13 Collegian’ sGuide - - - = - Haydon’s Lectures on Paintingand Design 13 Colton’s Lacon - : - Historical Pictures of the Middle Ages - 14 De Burtin On the Knowledge of Pictures Horsley’ s (Bp.) Biblical Criticism - - 14 De Morgan On Probabilities - Jeffrey’s (Lord) Contributions = Keightley’ s Outlines of History Laing’s Kings of Norway - Lempriére’ s Classical Dictionary Macaulay’s Essays - Mackinnon’s History of Civilisation Mackintosh’s History of England - 16 De Strzelecki’s New South Wales - 16 DresdenGallery - - & Dunlop’s History of Fiction - 17 Good’s Book of Nature - 19 Gower’s Scientific Phenomena. 19 Graham’s English - Grant’s feltens from the Mountains Miscellaneous Works 19 Guest’s Mabinogion - - - M‘Culloch’s Dictionary, Historical, pe Hand-Book of Taste Ca) graphical, and Statistical - 20 Higgins’s Anacalypsis - = Maunder’s Treasury of History - - 21 54 Altic Druids - - ch Ps oo¢oegs = a oo bal v6 ret _ © rs rid ny Colonisation and Christianity - 15 ” of Gardening »» Of Agriculture - > TO MESSRS. LONGMAN AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. | 3 Pages Pages | Hobbes’s (Thos.) complete Works - 14 Copland’s, of Medicine - = ) Howitt’s Rural Life of England - - 4 Cresy’s, of Civil Engineering - - 9 », Visits to Remarkable Places - 14 Gwilt’s, of Architecture - = - 13 rT Student Life of Germany - 15 Johnson’s Farmer - « 2) - 16 » Ruraland Social Life of Germany 15 Loudon’s, of Trees and Shrubs - 18 Jaenisch on Chess Openings - - - 16 gree (aed) Contributions ai = 16 King’s (' ol.) Argentine Republic - - 16 Lane’s Life at the Water Cure - - 16 Loudon‘’s(Mrs.) Lady’s Country Companion 18 Macaulay’s Critical and Historical Essays 19 Mackintosh’s (Sir J.) Miscellaneous Works 19 Maitland’s Church in Catacombs” - - 2 Michelet’s Priests, Women, and Families 21 cy The People - - - = SE Necker De Saussure’s on Education - 23 Perry On German University Education - 24 PeterPlymley’s Letters - - - ~ 24 Plunkett onthe Navy - - = «= 24 Pycroft’s English Course of Reading - 24 Roget’s Economic Chess-board - ea Rowton’s Debater - - - - 26 Sandford’s Parochialia_ - - - - 26 Seaward’s Narrativeof hisShipwreck - 26 Southey’s Common-Place Book - - 28 aa The Doctor, etc. Vol. VI. - 28 Sydney Smith’s Works - - - - 28 Thomson on Food of Animals, etc. - - 29 Walker’s Chess Studies - - - - 31 Willoughby’s (Lady) Diary - ~ - - 32 Zumpt’s Latin Grammar - - - - 32 NATURAL HISTORY IN GENERAL. Catlow’s Popular Conchology : 2a= 8 Doubleday’s Butterflies and Moths - 10 Drummond’s Letters to a Naturalist - 10 Gray’s Figures of Molluscous Animals - 12 », and Mitchell’s Ornithology - =e 12 “3 mS Accipitres - - 12 Kirby and Spence’s Entomology - - 16 Lee’s Taxidermy - . - - - 7 »» Elements of Natural History - minke Newell’s Zoology of the English Poets - 23 Stephens’ British Coleoptera - - - 28 Swainson on the Study of NaturalHistory 29 29 Animals - - - - 29 ae Quadrupeds - : ° - 29 oy, Birds re ae - - 29 2 Animals in Menageries - 29 ” Fish, Amphibians, & Reptiles 29 Ae Insects = - - 29 A Malacology - - - 29 Sh Habits and Instincts - - 2 ” Taxidermy - - = aabte, Turton’s Shellsofthe BritishIslands - 31 Waterton’s Essays on Natural History - 31 Westwood’s Classification of Insects - 32 Zoology of H.M.S.s’ Erebus and Terror 32 NOVELS AND WORKS OF FICTION. Bray’s (Mrs.) Novels - Dunlop’s History of Fiction Fawn of Serturius - - Marryat’s Masterman Read »» Privateer’s-Man Settlersin Canada - - », Mission; or, Scenes in Africa Pericles, A Tale of Athens - - Southey’s, The Doctor, etc. Vol. VI. Willis’s (N.P.) Dashes at Life - a, CR Ph on he BL eee ho [—) ONE VOLUME ENCYCLOPADIAS AND DICTIONARIES. Blaine’s, of Rural Sports - - - = 6 Brande’s, of Science, Literature, and Art 7 af of Plants - e = 18 >, of Rural Architecture - 18 M‘Culloch’s Geographical Dictionary 20 Dictionary of Commerce 20 2 Murray’s Encyclopedia of Geography Ure’s Arts, Manufactures, and Mines Webster’s Domestic Economy - POETRY AND THE DRAMA. tt o¢ sh 2 he oe TA Bos ~ too) Aikin’s (Dr.) British Poets - - - 26 Birger’s Leonora, by Cameron: - ee A Chalenor’s WalterGray - - - - 8 Collier’s Roxburghe Ballads - - - 8 Costello’s Persian Rose Garden - - 9 Goldsmith’s:Poems,--.. =.= _.=. <« 12 Gray’s Elegy, illuminated - - - 12 Gutch’s Robin Hode - - : - 13 Horace, by Tate - 8 - - 29 Howitt’s (Mary) Ballads > fe ap epee L. E, L.’s Poetical Works - of ae Linwood’s Anthologia Oxoniensis - + 18 Macaulay’s Lays of AncientRome - - 19 Mackay’s English Lakes - - - - 19 Montgomery’s Poetical Works - - 22 Moore’s Poetical Works - - - > 22 »5 Lalla Rookh - - - - 22 »» Irish Melodies - - - - 22 Moral of Flowers - - - - - 22 Poets’ Pleasaunce ~ - - - - 24 Pope’s Works - - - - - - 24 Reynard the Fox = - - ° wo 25 Shakspeare, by Bowdler - = -° 27 She ldon’s Minstrelsy - - - - 27 Sophocles, by Linwood - + + = 28 Southey’s Poetical Works = = - 28 wes British Poets - S . - 26 Spirit of the Woods = : - - 28 Thomson’s Seasons - - - 29 Watts’s (A. A.) Lyrics of the Heart POLITICAL ECONOMY AND STATISTICS, Gilbart on Banking - - - os = 12 M‘Culloch’s Geographical, Statistical, and Historical Dictionary : - - 20 M'‘Culloch’s Dictionary of Commerce - 20 55 Literature of Polit. Economy 19 >», On Taxation and Funding - 19 »5 Statistics of the British Empire 19 Marcet’s Conversations on Polit. Economy 20 Registrar-General’s Report - - - 25 Symonds’ Merchant Seamen’s Law - Thornton on Over-population - - - Tooke’s History of Prices - = ~- RELIGIOUS AND MORAL WORKS, ETC. Amy Herbert, edited by Rev. W. Sewell Barrett’s Old Testament Criticisms - - Bloomfield’s Greek Testament - - a Collegeand Schoolditto - 79 Lexicon to Greek Testament Burder’s Oriental Customs : > - Burns’s Christian Philosophy - », Christian Fragments - Callcott’s Scripture Herbal - Cooper's Sermons -— - - Dale’s Domestic Liturgy - Dibdin’s Sunday Library - - Doddridge’s Family Expositor SOOHVCONANNARMAA ee < 4 CLASSIFIED INDEX. Ee eS eS ee a Pages Englishman’s Hebrew Concordance = Il as Greek Concordance = - ll Etheridge’s Syrian Churches specced Fitzroy’s (Lady) Scripture Conversations 11 Forster’s Historical Geography of Arabia 11 ” Life of Bishop Jebb - - - jl From OxfordtoRome - =- = = Ili Gertrude, edited by the Rev. W. Sewell - 11 Hook’s (Dr.) Lectures on Passion Week 14 Horne’s Introduction to the Scriptures - . 14 >») Compendium ofditto - - 14 Horsley’s (Bp.) Biblical Criticism - - 14 39 Psalms = - = C = 414 Jebb’s Correspondence with Knox - - 15 >> Translation of the Psalms - - 15 Kip’s Christmasin Rome - = 27 A6 Knox’s (Alexander) Remains - = - 16 Laing’s Notes on the German Schism - 16 Laneton Parsonage - - - ~ - 16 Letters to my Unknown Friends = = 17 Maitland’s Church in the Catacombs - 20 Margaret Percival - rent ele All Michelet’s Priests, Women, and Families 2] A and Quinet’s Jesuits - = PN Milner’s Church History - - - gna Moore on the Power of the Soul = - 22 >», onthe Use of the Body - - 22 Mosheim’s Ecclesiastical History - = 22 My Youthful Companions - - - 22 Parables - - - - - - - 23 Parkes’s Domestic Duties : - - 23 Pearson’s Prayers for Families = - 23 Peter Plymley’s Letters - = a oe Pitman’s-Sermons on the Psalms = - 24 Quinet’s Christianity - - - = 25 Riddle’s Letters from a Godfather - - 25 Sandford On Female Improvement - - 26 os On Woman - - - a Sy 7 ’s Parochialia - - - - 96 Sermon onthe Mount (The) - - = 97 Shepherd’s Horz Apostolic - = 27 Smith’s Female Disciple - - - - 27 ” (G.) PerilousTimes - - - 27 Tere Religion of Ancient Britain 27 Southey’s Life of Wesley - - = 28 Stebbing’s Church History - - - 28 Steepleton - - s < - - 28 Sydney Smith’s Sermons - eo 2 O80 Tate’s History of St. Paul - - = 29 Tayler’s(Rey.C.B.) Margaret; or, the Pearl 29 os 9 Sermons - - 29 . » DoraMelder - aes) os % Lady Mary - - 29 Taylor’s (Jeremy) Works - - - 29 Tomline’s Introduction to the Bible - 380 Trevor; or the New St, Francis - - 30 Trollope’s Analecta Theologica - = 30 Turner’s Sacred History S2a0s =. ent aO Wardlaw On Socinian Controversy - 81 Weil’s Bible, Koran, and Talmud - - 32 Wilberforce’s View of Christianity - 82 Wilkinson’s Catechisms of Church History 32 Willoughby’s (Lady) Diary - . - 32 Woodward’s Essays, Sermons, etc. - 32 RURAL SPORTS. Blaine’s Dictionary of Sports - - - 6 Ephemera on Angling - - - - il Hansard’sFishingin Wales’ - - - 13 Hawker’s Instructions to Sportsmen - 13 Loudon’s (Mrs.) Lady’s Country Companion Stable Talk and Table Talk - - 18 28 THE SCIENCES IN GENERAL, AND MATHEMATICS. Pages Bakewell’s Introduction to Geology dee 7] Balmain’s Lessonson Chemistry - <= 9 Brande’s Dictionary of Science, etc. = 7 Brewster’s Optics - - - = = 7 Conversations on Mineralogy - = 8 Dela Beche on theGeology of Cornwall,etc. 9 Donoyan’s Chemistry - - - = 10 Farey onthe SteamEngine - - = Il Fosbroke on the Arts of the Ancients - 11 Gower’s Scientific Phenomena ae a) 7 Greener on the Gun oS ee Sore eaea, Herschel’s Natural Philosophy - - 13 a Astronomy - - - - 13 Holland’s Manufactures in Metal - - 14 Humboldt’s Cosmos <5 ee ep Hunt’s Researches on Light - = age he Kater and Lardner’s Mechanics - - 16 La Place’s System ofthe World = - 16 Lardner’s Cabinet Cyclopedia - - 16 At Hydrostatics and Pneumatics - 17 ” and Walker’s Electricity -~ V7 ay Arithmetic - - = - 16 “F Geometry * - - = WZ Ee Treatiseon Heat - - = 7 Lerebours On Photography - - - V7 Marcet’s Conversations onthe Sciences 20 Memoirs of the Geological Survey - - 2) Moseley’s Practical Mechanics - = 22 - Engineering and Architecture 22 Nesbit’s Mensuration - - - - 23 Owen’s Lectures On Comparative Anatomy 23 Pearson’s Practical Astronomy - - 23 Peschel’s Physics - - - - - 24 Phillips’s PaleozoicF ossilsof Cornwall, etc. 24 », GuidetoGeology - - - 24 »» . Treatise on Geology - - - 24 Poisson’s Mechanics - - - - 24 Portlock’s Geology of Londonderry = 24 Powell’s Natural Philosophy - “ mien Quarterly Journal of the Gocleiad Society 24 Ritchie (Robert) on Railways - = 2 Topham’s Agricultural Chemistry - - 30 Whitley’s Agricultural Geology - - 32 TRAVELS, Allan’s Mediterranean - - - - Cooley’s World Surveyed - - - Costello’s (Miss) North Wales - “ De Custine’s Russia - - - - De Strzelecki’s New South Wales - aad Erman’s Travels through Siberia - - Harris’s Highlands of Athiopia - - 13 King’s (Col.) Argentine Republic - - 16 Kip’s Holydaysin Rome —. - - - 16 Laing’s Tourin Sweden - - - 16 Mackay’s English Lakes = = - 19 Montauban’s Wanderings - - = 22 Parrot’s Ascent of Mount Ararat - - §8 Paton’s (A.A.) Servia - - fia ea Oe oe Modern Syrians - - 23 Pedestrian Reminiscences = = dS} Seaward’s Narrative of hisShipwreck - 26 Tischendorf’s Travels in Russia « = 80 Von Orlich’s Travels in India’ - - 31 VETERINARY MEDICINE Miles On the Horse’s Foot - - - 21 Stable Talk and Table Talk - - «= 98 Thomson on Fattening Cattle - = 29 Winter Onthe Horse - - = =" 22 76 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS. ABERCROMBIE.—ABERCROMBIE’S PRACTICAL GARDENER, AND IMPROVED SYSTEM OF MODERN HORTICULTURE, alphabetically arranged. 4th es thiage: tes an Introductory Treatise on Vegetable Physiology, and Plates by W. Salisbury. mo. 6s. boards. ABERCROMBIE AND MAIN.—THE PRACTICAL GARDENER’S COM- PANION; Or, Horticultural Calendar: to which is added, the Garden-Seed and Plant Estimate. Edited, from a MS, of J.Abercrombie, by J.Main. 8th Edition. 32mo. 2s. 6d. sewed. ACTON (MISS).—_MODERN COOKERY, In allits Branches, reduced to a System of Easy Practice. Forthe use ofPrivate Families. 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