ERS S AAS ee eA ch Sieh th we: oe “ aS Beneath ae oe Mes Seg: A Seta! Ay We catig Oot Bae es ma Wry gt Ghia kee en The : tong Asay is cS Wath eax RE SR Se. Py AS a Woy Nes Male Aye “yk 15 ne hy USN Cee = RMR ora tia oe MRO -G . Eanes Lee ete RSCG st ; SMS SAS SSR AOS as ECR CII TEE Uh a OM NRE BL OS At Saat ebedahaieces Ree dee Ke Nt ee ws . STR GRETA iG TEMES fea N WR a Sa 29 Tah as SATS Wa Noam tt Mis spent es BN, oH LT Jy an SSL ay “4s ae ae ee ie Wael o > aL nt pk LU ERB REE Ne : ma ett AERC FRANKLIN INSTITUTE LIBRARY PHILADELPHIA, PA. setge v4 ake ~ TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING MACHINERY Paves .\" da Bin =. . awe TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING MACHINERY BY A. J. HALL, B.Sc., F.L.C. se AUTHOR OF ‘‘ COTTON CELLULOSE ”’ CHIEF CHEMIST TO THE SILVER SPRINGS BLEACHING AND DYEING CO., LTD. EXAMINER TO THE CITY AND GUILDS OF LONDON INSTITUTE IN “* WOOL DYEING,”’ “* COTTON ae AND ARTIFICIAL SILK DYEING ’’ AND SILK AND ARTIFICIAL SILK DYEING ”’ NEW YORK VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY EIGHT: WARREN STREET 1926 é ns, Lid., Printers, Richard Clay & So: gay, PREPAGE ALTHOUGH numerous books have been written about machinery employed in spinning and weaving, no book exists which describes the construction and perform- ance of the machinery employed to-day for bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing textile fabrics, yarns and fibres. This volume has been written with the aim of filling this gap in textile literature. An attempt of this kind, pioneering as it is, is by no means easy of accomplishment, for the task of compilation is increased by the need for selection, and the usual difficulty of describing machines by means of written words and diagrams. In such a book, therefore, the arrangement of the subject matter may be varied considerably. The arrangement adopted by the author is such that the reader may imagine himself taken over an ideal bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing works and successively shown the various types of machinery by which harsh and dirty textile materials are converted into products which are attractively coloured and pleasing to handle. It has not always proved possible to arrange the subject matter in this manner, but every effort has been made to do so. The book covers so much ground previously unexplored that it is possible that certain omissions may occur, but every care has been taken to ensure that the information given is accurate and up to date. It is further hoped that the volume will at least be so far successful that it will provide textile engineers, bleachers, dyers, printers, finishers and chemists with a concise account of the construction and uses of the machinery employed in that branch of the textile industry which, more than others, allows each day’s work to be a source of interest and pleasure. The author is pleased to acknowledge much valuable assistance in the preparation of this book from various manufacturers of textile machinery, who have kindly supplied blocks and information relating to their machines. This assistance has been indicated throughout the book, but the author especially recognises the help given by Messrs. Mather and Platt, Ltd., whose textile machinery is to be found in use throughout the world. Ay J.) HAL July, 1926. 4853 CONTENTS PART I FABRICS CHAPTER I PAGES MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING . 17-80 Machinery for Sewing, Plate and Gas Singeing—Air and Gas Compressors—Piling, Washing, Squeezing and Impregnating Machines—Kiers for Fabric in Rope Form and Open Width—Bleaching Apparatus—Opening and Crease-removing Machines—Mangles —Automatic Fabric Guiders—Steam-heated Cylinders and Hot Air Drying Machines— Dollheads for Drying Cylinders—Scouring, Milling, Hydro-exhausting and Drying Machinery for Woollen Fabrics. CHAPTER II MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING . : : : 81-112 Winch Rope and Open-width Dyeing Maen O56: J ae riction Clutches for Dye Jigs—Padding Mangles—Continuous Dyeing Machines for Sulphur Black, Para Red, Indigo and Aniline Black—Mercerising Machines with Stenter Frames for Cotton Fabrics —Mercerising Machines with Roller Expanders—Caustic Recovery Apparatus for Mercerising Machines. CHAPTER III MACHINERY FOR PRINTING . : : : . 113-167 Brushing, Beating, Cleaning, Shaving and Moteing Mischiner’s —Chp Stretching Machines—Preparing Ranges—Colour Mixing Pans—Construction of Printing Machines —Nip Fittings for Printing Machines—Single-colour, Six-colour, Eight-colour and Twelve-colour Printing Machines—Sample Printing Machine—Printing Machine with Suction Washing—Duplex and Sarree Printing Machines—Blanket Washing Machines— Drying Machinery for Printed Fabrics—Ageing and Steaming Apparatus—Looped Cloth Steaming Chamber—Steaming Cottage—Machines for Washing, Chloring, Fixing, Malting and Dunging Printed Fabrics. CHAPTER IV FINISHING MACHINERY . . : ; : : : : - 168-218 Belt Stretching Machine—Conditioning Stenter—Brush and Beas Deane Machines— Starch Mangles for Slop and Ordinary Starching—Back Filling Mangles—Friction Starching Mangles—Jig Stenter with Hot Air Drying—Jigging and Differential Motions for Stenters—Swissing, Chasing, Glazing and Friction Calenders—Palmer Finishing Machine—Schreiner and Embossing Calenders—Soft Bowls for Calenders—Lancashire and Spring Beetling Machines—Stud and Spiral Roller Breaking Machines—Natural Lustre Finishing Machine—Crabbing, Raising, Rotary and Flat Plate Pressing Machines for Woollen Fabrics—Measuring, Lapping, Rigging, Plaiting and Selvedge Stamping Machines. PART II YARNS CHAPTER V MACHINES FOR SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING AND DRYING YARNS. . 219-241 Kiers—Washing, Bleaching and Soaping Machines for Skeins—Brattice Scouring Machine—Steam and Electric-driven Hydroextractors—Hot Air Drying Machines— Pole Drying Machines—Stretching and Drying Machine for Skeins. CHAPTER VI MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN . : : . 242-266 Automatic and Mechanical Machines for Dyeing Skeine—Mach@ery for Dyeing Warps —Cop Dyeing Machines—Machines for Dyeing Tops and Cheeses—Automatic and Mechanical Machines for Mercerising Cotton Skeins—Continuous Skein Mercerising Machine—Washing and Souring Machines. vil Vill CONTENTS PART III LOOSE FIBRES AND KNITTED MATERIALS CHAPTER VII PaGns MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, DYEING AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES . ; F 267-288 Bleaching Apparatus—Swing Rake and Harrow Wool Scouring Machines—Wool Carbonising and Burr Crushing Machines—Machines for Dyeing Loose Wool and Cotton —Opening Machines—Drying Machinery—Brattice Drying Machine—Machines for Scouring and Dyeing Small Hosiery Goods—Paddle Dyeing Machine—Drying and Finishing Machines for Knitted Tubular Fabric. CHAPTER VIII MACHINERY FOR SCOURING, DYEING, DRYING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS. 289-308 Scouring and Fulling Machines for Hosiery—Paddle and Rotary Dyeing Machines— Folded-fabriec Dyeing Apparatus—Hosiery Printing Machine—Hot Air Dryer for Tubular Knitted Fabric—Finishing Machines for Knitted Materials—Raising, Inspecting and Cutting Machines for Knitted Goods. CHAPTER IX MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY . : ; : : : : : : - 309-317 Steam Traps—Steam Dryers—Bearings for Machinery—Friction Clutches—Automatic Slip-Winch. INDEX 3 ’ : : : : : : é ‘ F : 318-321 ey | Q ey ines fal ado owl LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PART I FABRICS CHAPTER I MACHINES FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING Portable Sewing Machine (William Birch) Sewing Machine (William Birch) . Sewing Stitches (William Birch) Construction of Sewing Stitches Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather ana Platt) : : Construction of a Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) Transverse Motion of Two-plate Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) Singeing Plate (Mather and Platt) : Gas-heated Plate Singeing Machine (Selas Cas and ecerae Co.) Four-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) . Flame Singeing Burner (Mather and Platt) : Two-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Mather and Platt) A : Four-burner Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) Flame Singeing Burner (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) . Section of Flame Singeing Burner (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) Compressor for Air and Gas Mixture (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) Section of Gas Compressor (Selas Gas and Engineering Co.) Gas Flame Singeing Machine (Ernest Turner and Co.) Automatic Kier Piler (A. Edmeston and Sons) Roller Washing Machine (Lang Bridge) Roller Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) . Slack Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) Slack Washing Machine (Lang Bridge) Square Beater Washing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Noctoe tad Co. ) Square Beater Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) Squeezing Machine (Mather and Platt) . V-squeezing Rollers Levered Pressure System for Marie : Roller Washing Machine for Fragile Fabrics (Mather fel Platt) High Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) é : Section of High Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) . Steam Injector (Mather and Platt) Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) Longitudinal Section of Mather Kier (Mattior and Platt). Cross Section of Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) Jefferson-Walker Kier (S. Walker and Sons) . Automatic Piler for Kiers (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : Automatic Piler attached to a Kier (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) Huillard Open-width Kier (Mather and Platt) Jackson Open-width Kier (Jackson and Brother) : Impregnating Device for Jackson Kier (Jackson and Brother) Continuous Open-width Kier (A. Edmeston and Sons) Apparatus for Bleaching Fabric (Mather and Platt) Bleaching Apparatus for Fabric (Jackson and Brother) Scutcher (Mather and Platt) F Three-bar Curved Expander (Mather dad Platt) Five-bar Curved Expander (Mather and Platt) Swivel Opening and Guiding Rollers (Mather and Platt) is PACK 18 18 19 19 20 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 25 25 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 35 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 41 42 43 if 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 53 . 54 ae LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 49 a,b. Scrimp Rail (Mather and Platt) 50. Scrimp Rail (8S. Walker and Sons) 51. Spreading Roller (Mather and Platt) 52. Construction of Spreading Roller (Mather and Platt) 53a. Wooden Spreading Roller (Taylor Bros.) 53b. Conical Opening Rollers (Mather and Platt) . 54. Seroll Rollers (William Birch) ‘ 55. Three-bowl Water Mangle (Mather and Platt) 56. Automatic Fabric Guider (D. Foxwell) . 57. Cylinder Drying Machine (Mather and Platt) 58 a,b,c. Construction of Drying Cylinder (Mather and Platt) 59. Drying Cylinder (Bentley and Jaekson) ; 60. Drying Cylinders for Drying Fabric on One Side (uinthes and Platt) 61. Cylinder and Winch Drying Machine (Mather and Platt) 62. Dollhead for Drying Cylinders 63 a,b. Dollhead and Worm Drive for Deas Cylinders (W. Pp. Evan oa Sonn 64. Dollhead for Drying Cylinders (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) 65. Cell Drying Machine (S. Walker and Sons) : ; 66. Construction of Drying Cell (S. Walker and ae 67. Looped Cloth Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) , 68. Section of Looped Cloth Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 69. Looping Device in Looped Cloth Drying Machine (raniipeane) 70 and 7la. Looped Fabric Drying Machine (A. Koebig) 716. Circulation of Air in Looped Fabric Drying Machine (A. Koebie) 72. Woollen Fabric Scouring Machine (Wm. bre and Sons) 73. Construction of Milling Machine ; g , 74. Milling Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) 75. Hydroexhauster for Fabrics (Wm. Whiteley and Sans) 76. Tentering Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) : 77, 78. Pin Clips for Tentering Machine (Clay and Atkinson) 79. 'Tentering Machine for Woollen Fabric (Wm. Whiteley and Sona} 79a. Tentering Machine (Felix Billig) : : ; : CHAPTER II MACHINERY FOR. DYEING AND MERCERISING 80. Rope Dye Beck (Mather and Platt) . 81. Winch Dyeing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sona) 82. Winch Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) 83. Dye Jigs (Mather and Platt) ; é : 84. Section of a Dye Jig 85. Upper Rollers of a Dye Jig . : 86. Dye Jig with Squeezing Rollers (Mather and Platt) 87. Upper Portion of a Dye Jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) . 88. Constant Speed Dye Jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) 89. Dye Jig Roller (S. Walker and Sons) 90. Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Taylor Bros.) 5 91. Construction of Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Cavioe Bros.) 92. Friction Clutch for Dye Jig (Anderton) : 93. Construction of Friction Clutch for Dye Jig lAnderran) : 94. Dye Jig with Submerged Rollers (E. Céhnen) 95. Padding Mangle (Mather and Platt) 96, 97,98. Padding Mangles 99. Sulphur Black Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 100. Para Red Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) 101, 102. Continuous Dyeing Machines for Indigo (Mather tf Platt) PAGE 55 56 56 56 57 57 58 59 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68, 69 70 70 71 71 72 72 73 74 75 76 76 fie 78 78 79 79 82 83 84 85 85 85 86 87 88 88 89 89 90 90 91 92 93. 94 96 97, 99 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xl FIG. PAGE 103, 104. Aniline Black Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : ; eee £00,102 105. Aniline Black Dyeing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : 103 106 a,b. Apparatus for After- ae and bees Aniline-black eu Fale (Si ik Farmer, Norton and Co.) . 103 107. Mercerising Machine for Fabric (Mather and Platt) : 5 : ‘ ; . 105 108. Padding Mangle for Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ : : . 106 109. Mercerising Machine for Piece Goods (Mather and Platt) : : : ; eet hy 110. Mercerising Clip (Mather and Platt) : ‘ : ‘ Telos 111. ‘“* Matter’? Caustic Lye Recovery Apparatus (J. aoe ek Bembere) : : : . 109 112. Mercerising Machine for Fabric (Benniger) . 5 : 5 : : : SLO 113. Stretching Apparatus for Mercerising Machine (Benniger) : : é : sy Se CHAPTER III MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 114. Vertical Brushing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : : ; : . 114 115. Section of Vertical Brushing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : , ell 116. Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ , . 116 116a. Section of Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . = SLL 117. Four-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : , : : ; oe LLS 118. Construction of Four-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : 3) 119. Section of Single-cutter Shearing Machine (Mather and Platt) . : ‘ : . 120 120. Mote Cleaning Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ 5 ‘ ‘ ; : Ava 121. Canroy Machine (Mather and Platt) : i : : ‘ 3 kes 122. Short Clip Stretching Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : : . 123 123. Delivery End of Short Clip Stretching Machine (Mather and Platt) . : : oe AES 124. Differential Gear of Clip Stretching Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . ee Lew 125s ean of Differential Gear for Stretching Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and 0.) : : ; ; : : : ; ¢ ; eZ 126. Stenter Clip Cisther Ace Platt) ; ‘ . : ; A : : 5 128 127. Construction of Stenter Clip (Mather and Platt) : : ‘ : ; : a Ps: 128. Action of a Stenter Clip (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : é : ; mel 29 129, 130. Stenter Clips (Clay and Atkinson) . i : 2 : : : « 129, 130 131. Riveted Stenter Clips (Clay and Atkinson) . . ‘ : ead 132. Oil-protected Stenter Clip Rivet (Sir J. Farmer, N ed and vey ys : : eels 133. Preparing Range (Mather and Platt) . : : ‘ ; , d ; lon 134. Preparing Range with Stenter (Mather and Platt) . : : 3 z : . 133 135. Weft Straightener (Mather and Platt) . ' ; : : ; : : 22 6133 136. Hot Air Drying Chamber (Mather and Platt) é ; f A f ‘ . 134 137. Section of Hot Air Drying Chamber (Mather and Platt) . , . : ; . 135 138. Colour Mixing Pans (Mather and Platt) : : 2 : d : ‘ . 136 139. Colour Mixing Pans (Longclose Engineering Co.) . ; . , : : . 137 140. Construction of Single-colour Printing Machine ; : ‘ : ‘ : mola e 141. Construction of Multi-colour Printing Machine 5 ‘ : : : . 138 142. Nip Arrangement on a Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : ; j | 138 143. Box Wheel for Printing Roller (Mather and Platt) . : : : ; : a I) 144. Compound Slides for Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : - 5 : . 140 145. Mandrel and Printing Roller (Mather and Platt) . ; : : : F . 140 146. Mandrel Forcing Machine (Mather and Platt) ; i ; i F : . 141 147. Single-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt). : ‘ é A ‘ . 142 148. Six-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . i : : ; . 143 149. Section of Six-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ ; . 144 150. Section of Eight-colour Handkerchief Printing Machine (Mather andl Platt) : . 145 151. Twelve-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : . 146 152. Worm Reduction Drive for Twelve-colour Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . 147 X1l LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE 153. Sample Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) 3 ; : . 148 154. Printing Machine with Suction Washing Device (Mather one Platt) . : ; . 149 155. Construction of Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ; : - . 149 156. Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) 5 : ‘ . 150 157. Section of Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : . 152 157a. Front View of Four-colour Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ; - 153 158. Blanket Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) . ‘ : : ; . 154 159. Chest and Cylinder Drying Apparatus (Mather and Platt) : ‘ : ; oie ho 160. Hot Air Drying Apparatus for Printed Fabrics (Mather and Platt) . ; : . 156 161. Drying Apparatus with Hot Air and Steam Chests (Mather and Platt) . : Sar 162. Drying Apparatus for Duplex Printing Machine (Mather and Platt) : ; «SS 163. Steam Supply Pipe for Ageing Machines (Mather and Platt) . : ; 3 . 159 164. Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) ; ; : : - 159 165. Mouthpiece of Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) : : : - 160 166. Looped Fabric Ageing Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ ; : : é ior 167. Steaming Cottage (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : : ; ; » 163 168. Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Soaping Range (Mather and Platt) : : : . 164 168a. Construction of Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Soaping Range (Mather and Platt) . 164 169. Beaters for Washing Machines (Mather and Platt) . - 5 : : 5 » 165 170. Beaters for Washing Machines (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) ‘ : : 25 65 171. Washing, Fixing, ea and Malting Machine with Time Wheel (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : : ‘ . 166 CHAPTER IV FINISHING MACHINERY 172. Belt Stretching Machine (A. Edmeston and Son) . ; : : : Pee te 173. Construction of Belt Stretching Machine (A. Edmeston and Son : ; : oa SEQ 174. Conditioning and Stentering Machine (Mather and Platt) ‘ . ; : ae dt 175. Brush Damping Machine (Mather and Platt) : - : : : 5 » ele 176. Spray Damping Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) : : : : : «ET 177, 178. Threading of Fabric in Starching Mangles ‘ : A ‘ : . 174,175 179. Friction Starching Mangle (Mather and Platt) : 5 : Re di, 179a. Combined Ordinary and Back Starching Mangle Cuether. and Platt). : : at 2 Air 180. orp eaieee of Fabric in Combined Ordinary and Back Sree mens Mess and latt) . : .- 278. 181. Drying Cylinder for peel filled Petree! (Sir a Pannen Norton and Ge yee : np eke 182. Starching and Drying Range for Back-filled Fabrics (Mather and Platt) . ‘ Loe 183. Hot Air Jig Stentering ee (Mather and Platt) . : : : ‘ ‘ . 180 184. Jigging Motion . : : ; : ; : : ; : : » / 18d 185. Construction of Jig Stenter . : : ' é ; > wee 186. Drive to Hot Air Stenter (Sir J. Fanner Nostan ana Co. ) : ‘ ; : - «182 187. Jigging Motion of Hot Air Stenter : : : : : .- a183 188. Palmer Finishing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Nontin end os ee se; : é F . 184 189. Silk Fabric Finishing (Palmer) Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) ‘ . 185 190. Construction of Silk Fabric Finishing (Palmer) Machine (Swindells Engine Co.) . 186 191,192. Blanket Drying Machine with Short Stenter (Swindells Engineering Co.) . 187, 187 193. Enclosed Side Frame for Calenders : : : ‘ : : : : - ABS 194. Open Side Frame for Calenders. ; 4 : =; Se 195. Three-bowl Friction and Finishing Calendar (Mather and Platt) ; ‘ ; . 189 196. Three-bowl Light Finishing Calender (Mather and Platt) z - - 1190 197. Six-bowl Calender for Imitation Beetle Finish (Sir J. Farmer, Norton an Core . hoe 198. Seven-bowl Finishing and Chasing Calender (Mather and Platt) : : : - »b9S 199. Threadings of Fabric in Seven-bowl Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . oe 200. Ten-bowl Finishing Calender (Mather and Platt) . ; : ; ‘ . 195 201. Five-bowl Rack-geared Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Ge. ie : 4 . 196 FIG. 202. 203. 204. 205. 206. 207. 208. 209. 210. 211. 212. 213. 214. 215. 216. 217. 218. 219. 220. 221. 222. 223. 224. 225. 226. 227. 228. 229. 230. 231. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Silk Finishing Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) Single-nip Schreiner Calender (Mather and Platt) ; Driving Arrangement for Bowls of Schreiner Calender (Mather and Platt) Arrangement for Skewing Bowls on Schreiner Calender Single-nip Schreiner Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) Section of Soft Bowl for Calenders (Mather and Platt) Soft Bowl for Calenders (Mather and Platt) Embossing Calender (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) : Lancashire Beetling Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) Spring Beetling Machine (Mather and Platt) . Hammer of Spring Beetle (Mather and Platt) Horizontal Stud Breaking Machine (Mather and Platt) Spiral Roller Breaking Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) ; Construction of Spiral Breaking Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) Natural Lustre Finishing Machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . Triple-crabbing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) Raising Gig (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) Rotary Pressing Machine (Wm. Whiteley ad Sona) : Section of Rotary Pressing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) Flat Plate Pressing Machine (I. Hattersley Pickard and Co.) . Construction of Flat Plate Pressing Machine (F. Hattersley Pickard nel Co. ) Section of Flat Plate Pressing Machine (F. Hattersley Pickard and Co.) Lapping and Measuring Machine (Cooper and Sons) : ‘ Rigging Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) ; Rigging Machine with Automatic Fabric Guiders (D. Poeivolt Ba Bons) : Plaiting Machine (Cooper and Sons) : : : : : Auxiliary to Plaiting Machine (Cooper and Sana) Selvedge Stamping Machine (D. Foxwell and Sons) PARTEL YARNS CHAPTER V MACHINES FOR SCOURING, BLEACHING, WASHING, AND DRYING YARNS Low Pressure Kier (Mather and Platt) . Waggon for Mather Kier (Mather and Platt) . 232, 233. Yarn Washing Machine (Mather and Platt) 234. 230. 236. Done 237a. 238. 239. 240. 241. 242. 243. 246. 247. 248. 249. 250. Circular Yarn Washing Machine (C. G. Haubold) Yarn Bleaching Apparatus (Mather and Platt) Soaping Stocks (Mather and Platt) Brattice Yarn Scouring Machine (Petrie and MeNuueht) De-gumming Vat for Silk Skeins (Swindells Engineering Co.) Steam-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) . Section of Steam-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) Electrically-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) Section of Electrically-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) Overhead-driven Hydroextractor (T. Broadbent and Sons) Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) 244, 245. Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinacne) Section of Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) Tunnel Drying Machine for Skeins (Tomlinsons) Air Currents in Tunnel Drying Machine for Yarns (Comlinsons) Yarn Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) Xill 222, PAGH GN 198 199 200 200 201 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 210 211 PAI 212 213 214 215 215 216 217 217 ra Nel 220 221 223 224 225 226 227 227 228 228 229 229 231 232 232 233 234 235 235 236 X1V FIG. 251. 252. 253. 254. 255. 256. 257. 258. 259. 260. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Section of Yarn Drying Machine (Tomlinsons) ; Yarn Drying Machine with Conditioning Arrangements fTomlnsens) Yarn Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught). : Section of Yarn Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught) Drying and Stretching Machine for Yarns (B. Cohnen) Section of Drying and Stretching Machine (B. Cohnen) CHAPTER VI MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING YARN Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . Reversing Gear for Skein Dyeing Magne (Mago) Arrangement of Reels in Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . ; : 261, 262. Skein Dyeing Machine (8S. Spencer end Son) 263. 264. 265. Skein Dyeing Machine (Mayoux) . ‘* Centonip ’? Skein Dyeing Machine (8. Spencer Aad Ses) Construction of “‘Centonip”’ Skein Dyeing Machine (S. Spencer ia Son) 266, 267. Skein Dyeing Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) 268, 269, 270, 271, and 272. 273, 274. Skein Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 275, 276. Machine for Dyeing Warps on Beams (B. Céhnen) ins 278. 279. 280. 281. 282. 283. 284. 285. 286. 287. 288. Cop Dyeing Machine (Mather and Platt) Cop Holder (Mather and Platt) : Removal of Cops from Cop Dyeing Machine (Mather aad Platt) Cop Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . Cop Spindles (Longclose Engineering Co.) Cop Holders and Loading Frames (Longclose Hngneene Co. ) Top Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) . Section of Top Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) Cheese Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) é : Transference of Cheeses to Dyeing Tubes (Longclose Engineering Co.) Removal of Cheeses from Dyeing Tubes (Longclose Engineering Co.) Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubold) 289 a, b, c, d, e, f. Operation of Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubola) 290 a,b. Auxiliary Rollers (C. G. Haubold) . : : ‘ : 291, 292. Skein Mercerising Machine (C. G. Haubold) 293. 294. 295. 296. 297. 298. 299. 300. 301. 302. Circular Skein Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) Continuous Skein Mercerising Machine (Mather and Platt) Souring Machine for Skeins (C. G. Haubold) . PAR TRL LOOSE FIBRES AND KNITTED MATERIALS CHAPTER VII MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, DYEING, AND DRYING LOOSE FIBRES Three-bowl Continuous Scouring and Dyeing Machine (Petrie and McNaught) Section of Self-cleaning Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) Section of Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) 21-Ft. Harrow Scouring Bowl with Squeezing Press (Petrie ona MoNauene) Swing-rake Scouring Bowl (Petrie and McNaught) . Wool Scouring Bowl (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) Plain Brattice on Malleable Iron Chain (Petrie and McNaught) PAGE 236 237 238 239 240 240 243 243 244 244 245, 246 246 247 248 249, 250 Skein Dyeing Machines (Sandoz Chenavas Co. ) 250, 251, 252, 252, 252 253, 253 254, 254 263, 255 255 256 256 257 257 258 258 259 259 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 268 269 270 271 272 273 273 FIG, 303. Perforated Brattice on Malleable Iron Chain (Petrie and McNaught) 304. Steel Buckle Brattice (Petrie and McNaught) : 305. Wood Brattice on Brass Chain (Petrie and McNaught) 306. Wood and Leather Brattice (Petrie and McNaught) 307. Round and Dagger Prongs for Scouring Machines (Petrie and MoNanchey. 308. Ten-ton Squeezing Press (Petrie and McNaught) 309. Continuous Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (Wm. Whiteley and Bona) 310. Burr Crushing Machine (Wm. Whiteley and Sons) . : 311. Dyeing Machine for Loose Fibres (Longclose Engineering Co.) ‘ 312. Section of Dyeing Machine for Loose Fibres (Longclose Engineering Co.) . : 313. oe of Dyed Material from Machine for eyeing Loose Fibres ( ees ae - ing Co.) : : 314. Dyeing Machine for Dears Wi bres (Mather ant Platt) 315. Machine for Dyeing Loose Fibres (Petrie and McNaught) 316. Wool Opening Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 317. Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) ; 318. Section of Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) 319. Schilde Drying Machine for Loose Fibres (J. Rolland) 320. Section of Schilde Drying Machine (J. Rolland) 321. Brattice Drying Machine (Petrie and McNaught) 322. Multitubular Air Heater (Royles) 323. Indented Steam Pipes (Row’s Patent) fRogtes) 324. Section of Indented Steam Pipe (Royles) CHAPTER VIII MACHINERY FOR SCOURING, DYEING, DRYING AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 325. Scouring Machine for Hosiery (S. Pegg and Sons) 326. Fulling Mill (S. Pegg and Sons) 327. Hosiery Scouring and Shrinking Meenas (Hill ean Harber) 328. Paddle Dyeing Machine (8S. Pegg and Sons) 3 : 329. Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) . ‘ : F : : 330, 331. Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Longclose Engineering Co. ) : ; : . 298, 332. Dyeing Machine for Small Hosiery Goods (Smith, Drum and Co.) 333. Rotary Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) 334. Construction of Hosiery Dyeing Machine (Hill and Herbert) ; ; 335. Winch Machine for Dyeing Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Wneinosrte Co.) 336. Dyeing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Longclose Engineering Co.) . 337. Folded Fabric Dyeing Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) ; 338. Printing Machine for Hosiery (Mellor, Bromley and Co.) é 339. Horizontal Dryer for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Mandel, McIver Co., U. Ss. nt ) 340. Vertical Dryer for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Mandel, McIver Co., U.S.A.) . 341. Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Engineering Co.) 342. Biscuit for Tubular Knitted Fabric : 343. Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric iSneya Enemecrine Oa Dy : 344. Two-bowl Padding Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Swindells Engineering Ce: yr 345. Construction of Two-bowl Beene Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric pone feo Engineering Co.) . 346. Two-bed Steam Press for Hewery (8. Bees ee chat 347. Blanket Finishing Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabric (Saentielia Raeinesnne ioe is: 348. Pegson Steam-heated Calender for Knitted Fabric (S. Pegg and Sons) é 349. Small Brushing Machine with Teazles (S. Pegg and Sons) 350. Single Roller Fleecing Machine (S. Pegg and Sons) 351. Cloth Inspection Machine (Swindells Engineering Co.) 352. Cutting Machine for Knitted Tubular Fabrics (Swindells Bngineanne Co. ) LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XV PAGE 273 274 274 274 275 275 276 277 278 279 279 280 281 282 283 284 285 285 286 287 287 287 289 290 291 292 292 293 294. 294. 294 295 295 296 297 298 299 300 300 301 302 302 303 304 305 306 306 307 307 Xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS CHAPTER IX MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY FIG. PAGE 353 a, b,c. Construction of Lancaster Steam Trap (Lancaster and Tonge) : 309, 310, 310 354, Steam Trap (Royles) . : : : : : 5 : 5 Hl 355. Construction of Syphonia Steam Trap fparien) , 2 : é : : oo OLE 356. Inlet Valve for Steam Trap (Royles) . ; é 5 ; : : 4 < LdLe 357. Syphonia Rapid Steam Trap (Royles) . 3 . : ° : ~ 312 358. Lancaster Bucket Type Steam Trap (Lancaster Ge Tones) , . 5 : . 313 359. Simplicity Steam Trap (Key Engineering Co.) ; ; ; : ‘ ; . 314 360. Ordinary Steam Dryer oy and Tonge) . : : : : . 314 361. Lancaster ‘‘ Central Tube ’’ Steam Dryer (Lancaster and ‘Tones : . A » 3b 362 a,6. Roller Bearing (Ransome and Marles) . : ; ; : ; : ole 363. Friction Clutch (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) . : ; : : 2 aie 364. Construction of Friction Clutch (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co ) : , ; . 816 365. Automatic Slip Winch (George Taylor, Ltd.) ; : : : ‘ ‘ . 316 D Soe a ea te, ae ¥a\ + a, Casciato ett Sip ‘ae oer A tes. > al; ‘ ale 7 Page 27. Page 47. Page 47. Page 52. Page 53. Page 57. Page 168. Page 168. TR eee From line 2 read :— ‘““The gas burners consist of iron slotted boxes lined with corrugated nickel alloy strips arranged one above the other in a vertical frame, and fabric may be threaded over the burners so that only the face or both face and back of the fabric is singed. This machine differs, however, from others in so far that in passing through the machine the fabric is subjected to hot air projected upon its surface, the hot air being obtained by forcing air through one or more hollow iron pipes around which are drawn the hot burnt gases from the singeing flames; drying cylinders are thus dispensed with, the products of combustion are blown from the fabric, and the air occluded between the fibres assists their combustion and the heat of this combustion is utilised. Further, immediately before passing through a singeing flame, the fibre is led over a slotted pipe in Communication with a vacuum pump, the loose fibres on the fabric are thus raised while dust, fluff and steam are drawn from the face of the fabric and the singeing is thereby made effective. With such a machine, a pre-mixed gas and air mixture (about 1 part gas and 63 parts air) is delivered to the singeing flames by means of a suitable Parex mixer and compressor. The gas consumption is about 1 cubic foot per 15-30 yards of cotton fabric 40 in. wide.’’ Line 14, after ‘‘ guiding rollers ’’ read :— ‘‘ being thereby subjected to alternate steaming and saturating.” Line 15 should read :— ““the alkaline kier liquor which it contains may be raised and maintained at slightly over boiling point.” Lines 10 and 11 should read :— ‘* Both scroll rollers rotate against the direction of travel of the fabric.”’ Fig. 46 should be assigned to William Birch Ltd. instead of to Mather and Platt. Also insert corresponding correction for Fig. 46 in List of Illustrations, p. ix. Fig. 53a. The description of this should read :— ‘‘ Revolving Expander or Stretcher. (Geo. Taylor [Brassfounders] Ltd., Bolton.)”’ Line 20. -For ‘‘ indiarubber ’’ read ‘‘ canvas.’’ ’ Line 33. For ‘‘ leaves ’’ read ‘* enters.”’ TEXTILE MACHINERY. TEXTILE BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING MACHINERY PART I FABRICS CHAPTER I MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS FOR DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING It is necessary to cleanse thoroughly all fabrics before dyeing and finishing and in most instances it is essential that they should be bleached. A good scouring may be sufficient for fabrics which will be dyed in black, brown or other dark shades, but clear bright shades can only be produced by printing or dyeing perfectly white material. Cleansing and bleaching operations are therefore of considerable importance. Machinery for cleansing cotton piece goods is more varied and important than that for woollen fabrics since animal fibres are dyed and cleansed to a greater extent than cotton before weaving. / The most common impurities in grey cotton piece goods are starches, mineral, nitrogenous and fatty substances, and these are almost entirely removed by processes of scouring and kiering. The natural yellow colouring matter in cotton is not removed by these processes, but is afterwards destroyed by the well-known process of bleaching, in which chlorine or other bleaching liquors are used. Whenever possible, these treat- ments are effected on fabric in rope form, since the treatment may then be carried out by means of machines of comparatively simple construction and at high speed. In other instances, fabric is treated in open width. Generally, fabric is less damaged by displacement of its weft and warp threads and is more evenly penetrated by the treating liquors when dealt with in open width. The sequence of treatments to which cotton fabric is subjected after singeing and during kiering and bleaching differs considerably in various works and also because of the different styles in which the fabric may ultimately be finished. Generally, how- ever, a normal cleansing treatment comprises singeing, wetting-out with water, steep- ing in a wet state for several hours, washing in water, saturation with an alkaline solu- tion, kiering with numerous operations of souring and washing, then bleaching, washing and drying. For these various operations the numerous types of machines necessary include sewing machines, washing machines, bleaching apparatus, kiers for fabric in open width and rope form, mangles for fabric in open width, squeezing mangles for fabric in rope form, scutchers for opening fabric from rope form to fabric in open width, plaiting apparatus and drying cylinders. These will now be considered. Woven lengths of fabric as delivered to bleachers and dyers are usually from 50 to 150 yards long and from 20 to 70 inches wide and the first stage in their treatment generally consists of stamping each piece by hand with a “ process number ” and then sewing the pieces end to end. SEWING MACHINES Machines suitable for sewing piece goods end to end may be fixed and power- driven, or they may be portable and hand, foot or electrically driven. Fig. 1 shows 2 17 18 TEXTILE MACHINERY a typical rotary sewing machine (William Birch) on a portable tripod stand. Driving power is obtained by means of a foot lever and crank motion attached to a lower fly- wheel, the drive to the upper sewing mechanism being effected by a belt or rope which passes around a pulley fixed to the lower flywheel, or, alternatively, the machine is driven by means of 4 the small electric motor (about $ h.p.) shown. | | Machines for thick and heavy woollen fabrics | have a specially heavy flywheel and strengthened gearing. In the scouring and milling of woollen fabrics it Fic. 1.—PortTaBLE SEWING MACHINE Fic. 2.—SEwine MacuInE (WILLIAM BriRc#). (WiLL1AM BIRCH). is frequently necessary to sew the selvedges of the fabric together, the face of the fabric being inside the tubular fabric thus formed and thereby protected. For this purpose a sewing machine as shown in Fig. 2 is more suitable than the one described above, the cylindrical body giving more support to the fabric being sewn. Sewing machines must be capable of stitching both wet and dry fabrics and it is MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 19 also desirable that the length of stitch may be varied. Five typical stitches varying from fine to coarse are shown in Fig. 3 and their construction in Fig. 4. Such a form of stitch is capable of withstanding much pressure and tension, but it has the further advantage that a stitching across a fabric may be easily undone by withdrawing the end A in the direction indicated. Soft spun cotton yarns are used for sewing, since these are less likely to damage the sewn fabrics during their subsequent treatment. Fic. 3.—SEwine SrircHEes (WILLIAM Birc#). SINGEING MACHINES Singeing machines are of considerable importance, since almost all cotton piece goods are singed for the purpose of removing the nap and those loose fibres which would impair the finish and pleasing appearance of the finished fabric. Fabrics are generally singed on the face side only, although both sides are singed in special cases. In the earliest singeing machines, fabric was passed over a red-hot metal (copper) plate, but though this method is still largely used, its importance is equalled by a method in which fabric is singed by passage through a gas flame. Some machines incorporate both methods. Thread below the fabric is indicated by dotted /ines. Fig. 4.—ConstTRUCTION OF SEWING STITCHES. Plate Singeing Machines.—Fig. 5 shows a two-plate singeing machine (Mather and Platt) the construction of which is further indicated by Figs. 6 and 7. In an ordinary plate singeing machine, fabric after drying by passage over a few drying cylinders enters the machine in open width at a high speed, and in passing through the machine is pressed upon one or more circular red-hot copper plates by means of suitably placed metal guide rollers. The emerging fabric is hot and, being liable to take fire, it is immediately led in open width through a steam chamber or through a water trough, both being shown in Fig. 6. The singe plate is made of thick copper (Fig. 8) and is generally heated by means of burning coal or gas (Fig. 9), but several advantages are claimed for heating by means of liquid fuel—naphtha—a system which has been successfully used for heating plates up to 110 inches wide. Fic. 5.—Two-PLatEe SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). : Ko HAN i : AANUAANESANUANANTANRANAANE EE EANANANRE NENA AN URUNNS SSIES AA ANAS ANANAAAA NIAAA ARAN Fic. 6.—CoNsTRUCTION OF A TWO-PLATE SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 20 MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 21 It will be readily seen that the passage of fabric over a limited portion of the singe plate is likely to produce uneven heating and wear which would result in uneven singeing of the fabric (for example, burnt selvedges) and short life of the plate. For this reason the machine (Fig. 7) is fitted with a traverse motion such that the line of Fic. 7.—TRAVERSE MoTION oF Two-PLaTE SINGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). contact of the fabric with the plate is continuously varied. The traverse motion is actuated by means of a system of levers driven by the eccentric shown in Fig. 7. The dimensions of a typical copper plate are shown in Fig. 8. The advantages claimed for oil firing are :— 1. Keener and more perfect singeing because the plates may be heated more intensely and uniformly. 2. Saving of time and fuel in raising | the cold plate to red heat. 3. Cleanliness and saving of labour, le since no ashes require removal. a The machine shown in Fig. 5 will deal Fre. 8.—Srexre Pra with fabric at the rate of 100 yards per minute, but speeds of 200 yards may be obtained if desired. For high speeds, pre- drying of the fabric is essential. Fig. 9 shows a Selas plate singeing machine heated with gas. Gas Flame Singeing Machines.—A machine (Mather and Platt) of this type in which TE (MATHER AND PLATT). Fic. 10.—Four-BURNER GAS FLAME SINGEING MacHINE (MATHER AND Parr). 22 MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 23 fabric is singed by passage through four gas flames each emerging from a longitudinal slit in a gas pipe arranged parallel to the weft of the fabric is shown in Fig. 10. Fabric enters the machine over the wooden tension rails and drying cylinder shown in the top left-hand corner, passes successively through the four gas flames and over the wooden draw drum driven by the friction disc drive ' shown in the left-hand corner. A plaiting apparatus Sl (right-hand top corner) is also attached to the machine. Although four gas burners are supplied | with this machine, any less number may be supplied or utilised. The number of sides of the fabric singed is determined by the method of threading the fabric between the gas burners. Control of the burning gas is of considerable importance, since cotton fabric is liable to catch fire easily. In some machines the burner may take the form of a simple iron pipe suitably perforated along its length, but in the machine described here a more accurate control is obtained by a specially designed burner as shown in Fig. 11. The burner itself is formed of three separate parts and is of the slot type, such that the width of opening of the = Fie. 11.—F ame Sincerna Burner slot can be varied, thus enabling the same burner Sivan coe ite age to be used for gases having different calorific values. Above the burner slot is a water- cooled exhaust chamber connected to an exhaust fan, the cooling being necessary for prevention of overheating of the exhaust chamber. As the fabric passes between the slot burner and the exhaust chamber, the flame is drawn directly into the fabric, 2 iat WOAAAUAAANNAANS Si “ile \ Fic. 12.—Two-BuRNER GAs FLAME SINGEING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). which is thus efficiently singed, and the gases of combustion are then drawn through the exhaust chamber and led away from the machine. The length of the flame is regulated by means of internal sliding pistons in the slotted pipe. In Fig. 10 the exhaust fan, which is in communication with the four exhaustion 24 TEXTILE MACHINERY chambers of the machine, is shown on the top of the machine and the air blower for supplying air for combustion is shown in the left-hand bottom corner. A sectional view of a two-burner gas flame singeing machine is shown in Fig. 12. A Selas gas burner such as would be supplied with the four-burner singeing machine shown in Fig. 13 is shown in Figs. 14 and 15, and is considerably different in con- struction from that referred to above. This burner is divided into a number of separate sections each having a cross-section as shown in Fig. 15, the entry of gas to each being controlled by the valves as shown in Fig. 14. The length of singeing flame and its position along the length of the burner may thus be controlled by means of the valves. As seen from Fig. 15, each section of the burner is formed of two chambers, gas being supplied to the lower chambers of all the sections. In each section, gas passing from the lower chamber to the upper chamber, D, and thence to the burning slot, A, is con- trolled by the spindle valve, C, B, E. Under working conditions this type of burner gives a very steady uniform singeing flame. Fic. 13.—FouR-BURNER GAS FLAME SINGEING MACHINE (SELAS GAS AND ENGINEERING CoO.). In all cases a suitable mixture of gas and air is supplied to the slot burner, but whereas this mixture may be prepared and compressed apart from the singeing machine, it may also be formed by allowing separate currents of compressed gas and air to mix immediately before entrance to the slot burner. When the delivery of a compressed and prepared mixture of gas and air to singeing burners is required, such a compressor as that shown in Fig. 16 may be used. This compressor is capable of delivering a uniform mixture of air and gas at constant pres- sure independently of the variations in the amount of the mixture being used. The action of this compressor is shown in Fig. 17. Gas brought automatically to atmo- spheric pressure by means of the governor, H, and air, also at atmospheric pressure, are connected to the mixing chamber, E. By means of the regulating stud, K (the automatic mixing valve in Fig. 16), ports admitting air and gas are controlled so that the proportion of air and gas may be altered as desired. The compressor fan, Z, running at a constant speed, draws the mixture from the mixing chamber, E, and sends it forward to the singeing burners. The amount of mixed air and gas passing ‘(O00 DNIUAANTIONT ‘(OO DNINGANIDNG GNV SVD SvTag) GNV SV) SVIGQ) SHUOLXI. SVD GNV IV AOA AOSsauaWOQ—9T ‘DIT UANUNG ONIGONIG ANVIY JO NOILOAG—'CT ‘OTT YOSSSYdWOD aonv9 S3uNSsaud Pe YONYSAOD sv9o : / SATA ONIXIW — DLWWOLAY x YONYSA0D aunssaud LF1NI Sv9 “ ae 1H9N 101d aunssaud Movwg = FINI UV NIVW AY3AI130 ——> 25 26 TEXTILE MACHINERY forward to the compressor is partly controlled by the butterfly valve, N, but more especially by a port from the mixing chamber, A, which is automatically operated by a spindle attached to a diaphragm, C, sensitive to changes of pressure. It will be noticed that the fan is mounted eccentrically within the compressor chamber, U. The fan consists of a number of blades free to move in slots of a drum, W. As the fan rotates the blades in the lower part of the compressor chamber are thrown outwards by centrifugal force and impel the gas mixture forward, but when the blades approach the upper part of the compressor chamber they recede, thus maintain- ing the flow of mixture as shown by the arrows. The general action of the compressor is as follows. The valve controlling the entrance of gas is opened and the compressor started. After a few minutes the pilot Fic. 17.—SEcTION oF Gas COMPRESSOR (SELAS GAS AND ENGINEERING CO.). gas jet is lighted and the mixture of gas and air regulated by K until it is of the type desired. The mixture then passes through the compressor and is delivered to the burners at a pressure determined by the pressure governor, T, whose action depends on a valve acting from the diaphragm, 8. This governor limits the pressure developed by the compressor when the consumption of the gas mixture decreases. When the pressure increases above that desired and set by the valve attached to the diaphragm, S, the mixture passes back to the back pressure valve body, M, thereby closing valve N until the pressure falls to its normal amount. When the machine is given reason- able attention it thus supplies a uniform mixture of gas and air under a constant pressure, while the consumption of the mixture may vary widely. Electrically heated singeing plates are employed in America, but it is doubtful if this method has ever found technical application in England. Some American machines contain eight gas burners, but no great advantage appears to be gained by the use of this large number. MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 27 Another type of gas singeing machine (Ernest Turner) is shown in Fig. 18. The gas burners consist of iron slotted horizontal pipes arranged one above the other on a vertical frame, and fabric may be threaded over the burners so that only the face or both face and back of the fabric is singed. This machine differs, however, from others in so far that in passing through the machine the fabric passes in contact with Fic. 18.—Gas FLamMEe SINGEING MacHINE (ERNEST TURNER AND CO.). one or more hollow iron pipes through which are drawn the hot burnt gases from the singeing flames; drying cylinders are thus dispensed with. Further, immediately before passing through a singeing flame, the fabric is led over a slotted pipe in com- munication with a vacuum pump; the loose fibres on the fabric are thus raised and the Singeing is thereby made effective. With such a machine, a pre-mixed gas and air mixture (about 1 part gas and 14 parts air) is delivered to the singeing flames by 28 TEXTILE MACHINERY means of a suitable compressor. The gas consumption is about 1 cubic foot per 15 yards of cotton fabric 40 inches wide. Immediately after passage through singeing apparatus, fabric is passed through some form of water mangle (a suitable mangle is shown in Fig. 6) and the wetted out fabric piled in a pit or cistern and allowed to lie for a few hours. Automatic Piling Machinery.—In many works fabric in rope form is piled into stacks or cisterns by boy labour, but mechanical automatic piling apparatus is available. Fig. 19 shows the general arrangement of a machine for piling fabric in rope form. It consists of an overhead winch with attached pot eyes, the winch being capable of a forwards and backwards motion along an ovérhead track while the guiding pot eyes Fie. 19.—Avutomatic KirrR Prrer (A. EDMESTON AND Sons). through which the fabric passes periodically traverse the width of the winch. Two traversing pot eyes are shown in the machine in Fig. 19. The drive to such an automatic piling apparatus is preferably obtained through a small electric motor, but it is frequently obtained from a shaft by means of a belt. This machine requires about 2 h.p. WASHING, SQUEEZING AND IMPREGNATING MACHINES Machines of this type do not greatly differ in the chief principles of their construc- tion, since they all consist of a trough for holding water or other liquor above which are mounted two wooden or metal squeezing rollers (usually termed bowls by cotton workers), one, or less frequently both, rollers being driven. Such machines may obviously be used for both washing and impregnating fabric with suitable liquids. It is usual to pass fabric in rope form through these machines in a spiral fashion, and MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 29 frequently two fabrics are treated simultaneously as shown in Fig. 21; by this arrange- ment the fabric is successively squeezed and treated with a liquor several times instead of once, as it would be were the fabric to pass directly between the bowls. The impregnation of the fabric by the liquor in the trough is thus rendered more thorough. Roller Washing Machine.—The machine (Lang Bridge) shown in Fig. 20 is suitable for washing cloth in the rope state after any of the several treatments to which it is subjected during bleaching. It consists of two hard wood (beech or sycamore) bowls placed over a wooden tank containing water or other washing liquor. The lower bowl is driven by means of a friction clutch and pulley, clearly shown on the right hand ——— Fic. 20.—RoLLER WASHING MAcHINE (LANG BRIDGE). of the machine, and the pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of the weighted levers fitted to the top of the machine over the bowls. The bearings of the bowls are so designed that either bowl may be removed independently of the other—an impor- tant feature, since with machines of this type it is frequently necessary to remove the bowls and correct uneven wear by skimming them up in a lathe. Two freely rotating wood guide rollers are provided in the tank and the fabric is threaded up spirally around these rollers and between the two bowls (see Fig. 21), being guided and prevented from becoming entangled by means of the peg rail in front of the machine. The machine is capable of dealing with two ropes of fabric, one rope entering on each side through the attached porcelain pot eye and both ropes leaving the machine after about four passages (nips) between the bowls; usually the emerging 30 TEXTILE MACHINERY fabrics will be drawn from the machine by means of a winch or plaiting apparatus. A good flow of water is maintained in the wooden tank so that the fabric receives a thorough washing. In the washing machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 21 and similar in design to the machine described above, the bowls are diagonally disposed. This arrange- ment of the bowls increases the efficiency of the “nip.” Further, the water tank is divided into three portions by wood partitions at right angles to the length of the bowls. The incoming water from pipe C is delivered to the central compartment, and flows outwards to the two outer compartments; the purest water is thus present where the fabric leaves the machine. A separate pulley is sometimes provided on the other end of the driven bowl so that two speeds may be used. Sometimes a traversing motion is given to one bowl so as to obtain uniform wear. ~\ > SS {ee Fic. 21.—RoLLteER WaAsHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). Washing machines of the type described above have bowls up to 2 feet in diameter and 8 feet wide; they can treat 200 yards of fabric per minute. Fabric passing through the above machine is subject to considerable tension, and for fragile fabrics this may be undesirable. Hence slack washing machines are avail- able by means of which fabric is well washed with a minimum of tension and under such adjustable pressure as may be suitable. Slack Washing Machine.-—The machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 22 com- prises two hard wood bowls arranged diagonally for efficiency of washing, the lower bowl being driven through a friction clutch pulley. Pressure on the bowls is removed and also obtained by means of the long lever shown, this being suitably weighted in the usual manner. ‘The lower bowl rotates in a small wooden trough containing water or other liquid. Either bowl can be removed from the side frames independently of the other. Underneath the whole machine is a large wooden tank through which flows a good current of washing water. Fabric enters the machine in rope form through a pot eye, passes between the bowls, downwards over a driven roller into the washing tank, along the bottom of the latter, around a guiding wooden rail, upwards over a freely MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 31 rotating wooden roller, through the nip and away from the machine. The fabric is initially threaded through the machine so that some 10 to 20 yards of slack fabric lie Fic. 22.—Si~ack WasHING MAcHINE (MATHER AND P1aTT). along the bottom of the washing tank, and this form of threading is repeated spirally. The small wooden box under the lower bowl is for the purpose of collecting dirty water 32 TEXTILE MACHINERY squeezed out in the nip and thus prevents excessive fouling of the water in the main washing tank. =—Ss Sy : Sy, we a SQ ne oe Se el YH \\ NN xe ) Y l ) 4 J H f j TENSION RELIEVING , ARRANGEMENT. ae i = i i) 1a ‘ y j 7 ™& || ied , 7 , ] f 4 ) l) j f FLoor 4 ; A ry Ss < VS = BB A aaa. BV Sea BAVA =U BABA eaeee Fic. 23.—Siack WASHING MACHINE (LANG BRIDGE). A slightly different design of slack washing machine (Lang Bridge) is shown in Fig. 23. In this machine the entering fabric passes through the nip and is drawn downwards by a driven winch instead of a roller, and the pressure on the bowls may MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 33 be diminished in a more positive manner. A wooden guiding peg rail is shown in the bottom of the washing tank and no auxiliary tank is employed under the lower bowl. Square Beater Washing Machine.—Another machine (Sir J. Farmer, Norton and Co.) ~ which is suitable for washing fabrics in rope form very thoroughly is shown in Fig. 24. It contains two sycamore bowls under pressure regulated by the weighted levers shown on the top of each side frame. A wooden tank is situated under the machine and contains a large square wooden beater (the edges are covered with sheet copper) driven by a friction clutch pulley; a freely rotating wood winch is also fixed at one end of the tank. A spur wheel attached to one end of the square beater drives the lower wooden bowl (in some machines the lower bowl is driven through a friction clutch and the square beater by a spur wheel) so that these rotate in opposite directions. Fic. 24.—SquareE BreaTeER WaSHING MACHINE (Sir J. Farmer, Norton AND CoO.). The side frames of the machine are clearly shown and indicate how either bowl may be removed independently of the other. Fabric enters through the pot eye close to the winch, passes under the winch and the square beater, upwards through the nip, around the winch and is thus spirally threaded through the machine, finally leaving through the pot eye shown close to one end of the top bowl. Since the square beater rotates in a direction opposite to that of the lower bowl, it rotates against the fabric and tends to open it, so that the fabric receives a thorough washing. The method of threading a similar machine (Mather and Platt) involving an extra external winch is shown in Fig. 25. Squeezing Machine-—The machine (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 26 is very largely used for squeezing excess of liquor from fabrics. It consists essentially of two bowls maintained under pressure obtained by means of compound levers and weights, the lower bowl being driven by a pulley operating through a friction clutch. In operation, two fabrics are drawn separately in rope form through the two pot eyes, 34 TEXTILE MACHINERY then squeezed between the bowls and probably led upwards and over a driven wooden winch and piled into a kier or otherwise. The bowls may be made of compressed cocoa-nut fibre or cotton or of beech, syca- more or brass, and the framing of the machine is designed so that either bowl can be removed independently of the other. It is advantageous for the bowls to run on ball bearings. Pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of the compound levers and weights shown. This type of leverage is better shown in Fig. 28. The machine is also fitted with a traverse motion supplied by a cam to the shaft in front of the machine which carries the two pot eyes; uneven wear of the bowls is thus avoided or reduced. Fic. 25.—SquaRE BEATER WasHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). As shown with two pot eyes, the machine is capable of dealing with two ropes of fabric simultaneously at any speed up to 220 yards per minute. It is usual to provide squeezing machines of this type with a water box as shown in Fig. 26. This box is generally of wood and contains a few freely-rotating wooden guide rollers. Water or any other liquor may be put in the box for the purpose of impregnating the fabric, which will then be drawn through the box over and under the rollers. Some squeezing machines contain rollers which are not cylindrical but are V-shaped, as shown in Fig. 27, with the object of producing a better nip on the fabric in rope form passing between them. The pressure between the bowls in mangles and, as will be seen later, also in Fic. 26.—SQuEEzING MACHINE (MATHER anpD PLATT). Fic. 27.—V-sQUEEZING ROLLERS. C D Fic. 28.—LEVERED PRESSURE SySTEM FOR MANGLES. 35 36 TEXTILE MACHINERY calenders, is generally obtained by means of a system of compound levers and weights. The necessary arrangements involved in this construction are illustrated diagram- matically in Fig. 28 and they are shown in many of the machines illustrated (see Figs. 55, 195, 200). Mand N are shafts of two bowls in contact, N being supported on a fixed bearing and M being pressed downwards by the V-bearing attached to the vertical rod, L having a screw thread on its upper part; the rod L also passes through the screwed collar, P, which can swivel about a horizontal axis in the horizontal arm, K. The horizontal arm, K, is pivoted at A, and carries a vertical rod, G, pivoted at B and C, the horizontal arm, F,, carrying weights, W, and being pivoted at D. The pressure on the bowls is thus dependent on the weight, W. Owing to the construction of the side frames of a mangle, the range of motion of W about the pivot, D, is limited, v.e., the weight, W, can gener- ally rise only a_ limited amount. By means of the hand-wheel, H, however, the rod L may be screwed up- wards or downwards within the collar, P, and the position oT pp le of the weights, W, varied. Elm Bow! 16"Dia. 8+3"Wide on Face ieee = > TESS 2 $ HARK ARE 4 i VE b te it Ghereh Prigns Rillegens ai Spareneg) When the mangle is set up, peas de ‘i flan dlever for the rod L should be screwed Fm Bow! 24"Dia: <4 re ee eee fea ie the weight, rN : os X , 1s at its lowest point. SE Ih EE (Ee. : S SX Trough Follee Under these conditions, while with Foller Bearings. the bowls may be forced apart, the pressure between them remains approximately constant within the range of movement of the weight, W ; : the bowls thus allow the 7 OXI XM XVI 7 7 \\@I SS J _.._/otal aes mel! meer passage of fabric containing Site Elevation thick seams or knots without damage. Fic. 29.—RoituerR WasHina MacHINE FOR FRAGILE FABRICS 2 ee (MATHER AND PLart). Sometimes, however, it is desirable to maintain the bowls under a dead-set pressure. For this purpose, mangles are generally provided with dead-set pins; these pins are merely used for fixing the arm, K, rigidly to the side frame of the machine, and the pressure on the bowls may then be determined directly by screwing the rod L upwards or downwards in the collar, P. Although mangles fitted with levered pressure seldom damage fabrics passing through them, they are not sufficiently elastic for squeezing fabrics containing a con- siderable proportion of artificial silk or for very delicate fabrics. This disadvantage is overcome by replacing levered pressure by spring pressure in the manner indicated in Fig. 29. In the machine shown (Mather and Platt), the pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of two springs attached to each side frame, a curved pivot arm being shown adjacent to the right-hand spring. These springs thus allow the pressure to be varied from any maximum amount to zero, and, further, the bowls are fitted with roller bearings. When fabric containing a knot passes between the Fic. 30.—HicH Pressure Kier (MATHER AND PLATT). 37 38 TEXTILE MACHINERY bowls, the upper bow] lifts to accommodate the knot, but it returns with a much less bump than is the case with bowls fitted with levered pressure. This type of mangle is particularly suitable for fragile fabrics. Kiers.—Following singeing and washing, the fabric will probably be padded with milk of lime in a roller or similar squeezing machine and then plaited down compactly and evenly in a kier and given a so-called lime boil. Kiers are constructed to work at ordinary or high pressure, the higher the pressure the more drastic the treatment. a ; yi SSS fi Ne N Ag 3 1 A < D ‘Bs 8 N q 8 H N N iH q N dg. N OAS SS ~~ (Gay (CSS @ iE) eee aT | 4 mm hs ae 4a Fic. 31.—Srction or High PRESSURE KIER (MATHER AND PLATT) Low Pressure Kiers——The general construction of a low pressure kier is similar to that of the kier (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 30 (see also page 219 and Fig. 230), except that it has an open top or a loosely fitting cover. The kier itself is made of riveted mild steel plates and contains a false or perforated bottom, and is built to hold } to 4 tons of fabric. In operation, hot alkaline lye (lime water or aqueous solu- tions of caustic soda and soda ash) is continuously circulated through the fabric for several hours, the boiling liquor being delivered to the top of the kier, sprayed umbrella fashion over the top of the fabric and, after percolation through the fabric, it is MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 39 withdrawn at the bottom of the kier and re-delivered to the top. The circulation and heating of the liquor are maintained by means of a centrifugal pump and the multi- tubular heater as shown in Fig. 30 or by a steam injector as shown in Fig. 32. Fig. 31 shows the section of a high pressure kier with multitubular heater (Mather and Platt). Generally it is preferable to employ a pump and separate heater, since there is greater certainty about their action and no dilution of the alkaline liquor occurs as is the case when a steam injector is used. High Pressure Kiers.—High pressure kiers are usually built capable of treating 2 to 4 tons of fabric at 40 lb. pressure, but in some instances a pressure of 60 lb. per square inch is desired. The kier (Mather and Platt) Fig. 30 is shown fitted with circu- lating pump and multitubular heater, the details of its construction being further shown in the sectional view, Fig. 31. It is, of course, necessary to provide high pressure kiers with safety To Top of Kier valves and a cover which can be bolted down so as to withstand the pressure inside the kier. Fig. 31 clearly shows the perforated annular device for providing an umbrella spray of liquor over the fabric. The multitubular heater is of the usual type in which liquor passes through a number of vertical steel tubes surrounded by steam under pressure. High pressure kiers may be fitted with steam jep injectors instead of multitubular heaters and pumps, //quor - but they are less efficient on account of the consider- able dilution of the alkaline liquor which occurs. Jpn ih =F AIR VALVE—a—e US 2. MANHOLE SPREADER STEAM SUPPLY) | VALVE (a MAIN'STEAM RANGE 70 MAINTAIN A CONSTANT PRESSURE PLATFORM —S—S—=S ea A”-. LIQUOR TEST VALVE _ ou 1 VZEN SNS N NN NN N 877 WW B H RY AQAA AY Scale of Feet. 1 2 o Fic. 36.—JEFFERSON-WALKER KIER (S. WALKER AND SONS). Sons) is shown in Fig. 36. The method of working this kier is such that the materials within it are subjected to periodic. injections of an alkaline liquor at any desired temperature and pressure. The kier itself is composed of steel plates riveted together MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 43 in the usual manner, but its characteristic features are found in the devices whereby the circulation of liquor is controlled. The kier is operated as follows. Cotton fabric in rope form is piled evenly within the kier and the top cover then fastened down. An alkaline liquor is allowed to flow into the kier through the liquor supply pipe, 7, the air in the fabric being thereby displaced upwards. When the liquor reaches the level of the test valve, 3, the supply of liquor is cut off by closing valve 1. Steam valves, 4 and 5, are then opened and steam passes downwards to the inspirator (injector), 6, thereby drawing liquor from the kier and forcing it up pipe 7 to the top of the kier and spraying it through the Fic. 37.—AvutTomatic PineR FoR Kiers (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND CoO.). spreader, 10. After a short time, steam valve 5 being open, the pressure in the kier rises to a desired amount, as shown by the steam pressure gauge, and valve 5 is then closed and valves 12 and 13 are opened. During the subsequent boiling, steam is thus supplied to the injector through the automatic controlling device, 13. This device consists of a valve operated by an electric motor, the valve being successively opened for 60 seconds and closed 30 seconds. In this manner, a succession of inter- mittent injections of boiling liquor (about 170 gallons at the pressure originally fixed) into the top of the kier occurs, and at the same time the fabric within the kier auto- matically gently rises and falls. The “‘ breathing” (rising and falling) of the fabric tends to reduce the possibility of easy liquor channels within the piled fabric being formed. AA, TEXTILE MACHINERY Once the timing device has been accurately set it demands no further attention during successive kierings and the working of the kier proceeds uniformly and satisfactorily. re fk | SS SS eee mt AR, wer = oefeoogoegaaoaoog Ls) ?] o ta} ns ——— iI) “|-@.0-}> CO0CO6Z0GEOGO i=) Shots Wily ti eo >) Fic. 38.—AuvuToMaATic PILER ATTACHED TO A Kier (Sir J. Farmer, Norton AND CoO.), Although it is usual to use boys for piling fabric into kiers, an automatic kier piling device is now available and is shown in Figs. 37 and 38. The piler essentially consists of a funnel with attached piling mechanism or chute which are together : 7 MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS AS mounted on an overhead runway and therefore easily transferable from one kier to another. When in position, the piler rests on the central manhole of the kier with the distributing chute extending down into the kier. ‘The top of the funnel through which the fabric enters is connected by means of flexible hose to a by-pass from the liquor circulating pipe of the kier. In operation, cloth is fed into the receiving funnel of the piler by means of a winch and is washed downwards through the funnel and outwards through the chute, being simultaneously thoroughly wetted with kier liquor. The whole of the mechanism is mounted on a large worm wheel driven by a worm direct from the motor and the chute being mounted on the worm wheel revolves with it in a circular path. At the same time, the chute derives a swinging motion from a quadrant and pinion inside the machine and swings in an arc of 180 degrees. This motion is continuously varied by means of a pair of cams which accelerate it as the chute nears the centre of the kier and retards the motion as the chute approaches the walls of the kier. Simultaneously the chute is alternately lengthened and short- ened by means of a sliding motion actuated by another quadrant and pinion arrange- ment mounted on the underside of the worm wheel which operates a small block chain and sprockets. Thus, through the combination of the rotating worm wheel, the swinging of the delivery chute through an arc of 180 degrees and the sliding or tele- scopic motion of the chute, the mouth of the chute follows the path of a true logarithmic curve. The alternate accelerating and decelerating travel of the chute is in direct proportion to the area required to be covered with cloth and the fabric is thus piled up evenly and uniformly within the kier. This automatic piler has the further advantage that it ensures even wetting out of the fabric during its passage into the kier. Consideration will now be given to kiers capable of treating fabrics in open width. Huillard Open Width Kier.—This kier (Mather and Platt) is rectangular in form and provided with a cover for bolting down on the top; circulation and heating of the liquor are obtained by means of a centrifugal pump and a multitubular heater. A sectional view of the kier is shown in Fig. 39, and it will be noticed that the kier is divided into three compartments by means of two vertical perforated division plates. Fabric is plaited down in open width in the middle compartment by means of a winch and a light cover screwed down on top to prevent the fabric rising during the subse- quent treatment. A boiling alkaline liquor is then circulated from one outer com- partment, through the perforated division plate and the fabric, outwards into the other outer compartment and back to the pump and heater. Occasionally the direction of the flow of the liquor through the kier and fabric is reversed by means of suitable control valves. Kiers of the Huillard type are made to hold up to 23 tons of fabric, and the boiling is carried out at about 15 lb. per square inch pressure. Jackson Open Width Kier—An entirely novel and successful method for kiering fabrics has been devised (Jackson and Brother) by which it is possible to thoroughly “ bottom ” (cleanse) about 4000 yards of fabric in open width within two hours. The kier shown in Fig. 40 comprises a circular sheet steel chamber capable of withstanding an internal working pressure of about 60 lb. per square inch. An iron framework which may be run in and out of the kier on guide rails essentially consists of three rollers shown in Fig. 40. The two outer steel batch rollers rotate in the fixed bearings at either end of the wagon, but the central hollow perforated steel 46 TEXTILE MACHINERY cylinder of large diameter is carried on oscillating arms pivoted at either end of the base of the wagon. The arms have long open jaws at the top so that the drum is free to move upwards and also sideways by reason of the arms being pivoted. The batch rollers are both capable of being driven or running freely. The door to the front of the kier is swung on a jib crane. Sream Vale = Pee} Ee Fearoearco Rare Moc tusucaR Hearse 2 Ise Beare RAFU E ISS) 8G EI A eR] , | a $ = fy CSE 5 SSA 5 be 2 Le . sf Re 23 Vi : Fic. 39.—HUvILLARD OPEN-wiptH KieR (MATHER AND PLATT). When the wagon is run into the kier, one or other of the batch rollers makes auto- matic connection with driving gear situated within and at the back of the kier, the | other roller rotating freely. In the preliminary operations, fabric is batched on one of the special batch rollers through an alkaline kier liquor by passage around a large perforated iron cylinder submerged in the alkaline liquor contained in the iron tank shown in Fig. 41. Since the batch is thus driven by friction with the submerged cylinder, a tight well-impreg- nated batch is obtained. The batch roller with its fabric in open width is then placed on one side of the wagon, one end of the fabric being threaded around the perforated drum and attached to the other empty batch roller, as shown in Fig. 40. The wagon MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS AT is then run in the kier and the door closed, whereby the rear end of the empty batch roller engages in the driving gear and the fabric is continuously drawn on to the empty batch roller. Meanwhile hot alkaline liquor is continuously sprayed in the usual manner from the top of the kier over the single thickness of fabric passing over the perforated drum. When the fabric has passed completely from the first roller to the other, the drive is automatically reversed and the fabric is re-wound on the first roller. The passage of the fabric in open width from one roller to the other and back again is continued until the cleansing treatment is complete. Fic. 40.—Jackson OpEN-wipTH KIER (JACKSON AND BROTHER), Edmeston Open Width Kier.—Another type of kier (Edmeston) suitable for treating fabrics continuously in open width is shown in Fig. 42 and consists of a tank built of cast iron plates and having two smaller outer compartments and one larger inner com- partment formed by vertical partitions which do not reach to the bottom of the tank, as shown in Fig. 42. Fabric passes through all compartments over and under a number of guiding rollers. Closed steam coils are provided in the bottom of the tank so that the alkaline kier liquor which it contains may be raised and maintained at boiling point. The tank is air-tight except for the slots provided for the entrance and exit of the fabric being treated, but the central compartment is completely air-tight, since the liquor in the outer compartments forms a seal for the entering and exit of the fabric. In general use, the difference between the height of the liquor in the central and outer compartments is about 4 feet and this represents the pressure under which 48 TEXTILE MACHINERY the liquor in the central compartment is boiled ; when the supply of heat to the central compartment is reduced, the level of liquor in the outer compartments lowers, and when the heat supply is increased the level rises. The kier thus really consists of a steaming chamber made air-tight by means of two water seals. It is capable of treating 30 to 40 yards of fabric per minute in open width or four times that quantity in rope form (four ropes are passed through the machine simultaneously) and requires about 4 h.p. ao Ae Fic. 41.—ImprEGNATING DEVICE FoR JACKSON KIER (JACKSON AND BROTHER). BLEACHING MACHINERY Bleaching proper is usually effected by passing fabric in open width or more generally in rope form through a solution of bleaching powder or sodium hypochlorite, afterwards washing it for the removal of the spent bleaching liquor, then souring by passage through a weak acid solution, again washing, then opening out the fabric (if in rope form) by passage over a scutcher, mangling and finally drying over steam- heated drying cylinders or by means of hot air. During bleaching, the natural colouring matter present in cotton is destroyed and the fabric gradually assumes a pure white colour. The simplest method of treating fabric in rope form with bleaching liquor consists of running the fabric through a roller washing machine (see page 34) containing bleaching liquor and allowing it to lie in a loose pile for a suitable period and sub- sequently washing it in the same or a similar machine. Generally, good results are OE ‘(SNOQ GNV NOLSUWaq “Vy ) aay HLGIM-NHdQ SQONNILNOQ)— GFP “DIY CRA delete ace te Saanntiinannidiaiddddadag 49 50 TEXTILE MACHINERY obtained by this method and it has the advantage that it allows the rapid treatment of large quantities of fabric. Another process for bleaching fabric in rope form, which is superior to the piling \ BS eal ALA AR BS Cd ee method and is largely employed for the preparation of white goods, is carried out by means of the apparatus (Mather and Platt) shown in Fig. 43. This apparatus consists of an upper wood or stone tank in which fabric is plaited down and a lower tank or pit containing the bleaching liquor. A small centrifugal pump is provided for raising MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 51 the bleaching liquor so that it may percolate by gravity through the fabric as shown and ultimately run back again into the lower tank. When the treatment with bleaching liquor is complete, the fabric may be washed, soured and again washed in the same machine, using the appropriate liquors, or preferably the fabric may be withdrawn over a winch and washed, soured and again washed in adjacent washing machines of the usual type. Alternatively, the apparatus shown in Fig. 43 may be used for chemicking and souring, washing being carried out in a separate machine. Bleaching in open width may be carried out on the wagon employed in the Jackson open-width kier, and Fig. 44 indicates how the process may be effected. The wagon, an improvement on that shown in Fig. 40, is placed in a wooden tank which is over and communicates with two lower tanks, one containing a bleaching liquor and the iG st aaa =. \ > XN t a) iS Marly Ws 2 ERAS é st te Ai rn * rag wa rs ae pa 79 Lay a\ Rote beter | ba NY CHEMIC WELL SOUR WELL SAR Ss DSSS SS J Fic. 44.— BLEACHING APPARATUS FOR FaBrRic (JACKSON AND BROTHER). other a souring liquor. The fabric is run open width over the perforated drum from one batch roller to the other while it is sprayed with a bleaching or souring liquor raised from the lower tanks by means of the centrifugal pump, P. Afterwards the fabric is washed by passage through a washing-off range (see page 162 and Fig. 168), being finally mangled and batched on a roller at the delivery end of the washing machine. The fabric is then ready for drying and it is evident that under such treat- ment the bleaching is even and thorough. OPENING AND CREASE-REMOVING MACHINES After scouring, bleaching or other preparatory treatment of fabric in rope form it is necessary for the fabric to be opened out to full width before it can be dried; fabric dried in rope form would contain innumerable undesirable creases. Further, 52 TEXTILE MACHINERY before drying it is desirable to free fabric in open width from all creases that it may contain, since these will be fixed by drying. Several devices are available for effecting these operations and they will now be considered. Scutcher.—This machine is used for converting fabric in rope form to full open width, a typical scutcher (Mather and Platt) being shown in Fig. 45. It consists of a brass revolving beater A, two rotating scroll rollers B and C, a pivoted guiding device, D, and a draw roller, E. Fabric approaches the scutcher through a distant pot eye and is partially opened by the beater revolving at high speed and this opening- out is completed as the fabric passes between the scroll rollers (see Fig. 54), whose surfaces are covered spirally with metal twigging of U section. Both scroll rollers DSiot Evevation . bdo Baaw Rovcaa. m Envrering Ena FEARS MA. LA Fic. 45.—ScutcHER (MATHER AND PLATT). rotate. in the direction of travel of the fabric. The guiding device consists of three parallel horizontal metal rods arranged so that they exert a binding action on the fabric passing between them, and since these rods form a rigid system which is centrally pivoted, any tendency for the fabric to pass otherwise than centrally through the scutcher is automatically corrected by the swivelling of the guiding device. In order that the scutcher may work efficiently, the distance between the pot eye and the beater should not be less than 10 yards. Curved Hxpanders.—Fig. 46 shows a three bar (William Birch) and Fig. 47 a five bar (Mather and Platt) curved expander, both pieces of apparatus being constructed on similar principles. The expanding device consists of curved shafts on which are mounted a number of brass or cast iron grooved bobbins which interlock with each other. The bobbins on each shaft rotate as a whole when fabric passes over them, MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 53 this rotation being possible because the interlocking of the bobbins is somewhat loose. Referring to the three-bar expander, two of the shafts lie in one plane and the other above this plane, so that as the fabric passes under the first shaft, over the raised middle Fic. 46.—THREE-BAR CURVED EXPANDER (MATHER AND PLATT). Fic. 47.—FIivE-BAR CURVED EXPANDER (MATHER AND PLATT). shaft and away under the rear shaft, it is subjected to tension dependent on the relative displacement of the middle shaft. This displacement is regulated by means of the mitre wheels shown. The fabric is freed from creases by the rotation of the grooved bobbins, which expand laterally, the fabric passing over them. 54 TEXTILE MACHINERY The five-bar expander is somewhat more efficient in its action, the bind of the fabric on the bobbins being stronger because two raised shafts are present. The radius of curvature of the shafts is about 4 feet and the expanding force of the apparatus is dependent on this curvature. Swivel Opening and Guiding Rollers.—This apparatus (Mather and Platt) for opening or expanding fabric is shown in Fig. 48 attached to the front of a mangle and consists of a pivoted cast iron frame carrying a freely rotating straight roller and also a freely rotating curved roller. The latter consists of a number of metal Fic. 48.—SwivEL OPENING AND GUIDING ROLLERS (MATHER AND PLATT). bobbins (similar to those shown in Fig. 46) mounted on a steel shaft and covered with a rubber sleeve. In operation, fabric passes over the rubber-covered roller, onwards over the second straight roller and into the machine. It will be seen that the curvature of the roller and the adjustable tension of the fabric produce an opening of the latter and that this expanding force is applied to one side of the fabric only. Owing to the fact that the frame carrying the rollers is centrally pivoted, the central running of the fabric passing through it is automatically ensured. Self-sharpening Scrimp Rails and Rollers.—Another type of apparatus used before mangles, drying machines and the like is known as a Scrimp Rail, and one form (Mather and Platt) is shown in Figs. 49a and 49b. The rail is composed of a rigid steel bar of MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS Do rectangular section having cast iron end pieces screwed into both ends and provided with tightening nuts. Between the end pieces the bar is threaded alternately with metal (brass or a non-corrosive metal) plates and fibre discs, the latter having the same length but being slightly narrower than the metal discs, so that these latter project on both sides of the roller. The discs are maintained diversing by means of a V-shaped centre piece. Fabric passing over the rail is freed from warp creases by reason of the expanding action of the divergent plates. This apparatus is termed self-sharpening, since the edges of the metal discs are sharpened by passage of the fabric over the rail. The rail can be reversed when the Fic. 49a.—Scrime Ratt (MATHER AND PLATT). Fic. 496.—Scrimp Raitt (MATHER AND PLATT). metal discs on one side are worn flush with the fibre discs, and it is obviously possible to keep the rail in repair by replacement of damaged discs. Another form of scrimp or opening rail (Samuel Walker) is shown in Fig. 50. It consists of a number of metal blades projecting through a supporting metal plate which is further attached to a wood bar. The blades may be made of any metal (iron excluded on account of its susceptibility to rust) and are arranged divergently, the blades being secured underneath the supporting plate by means of solder. Porcelain scrimp rails are also available, and they have the advantage that they are not attacked by acids or alkalis and are easily cleaned. Spreading Roller.—This ingenious apparatus for applying a tension to the weft threads of fabric in open width, which is frequently placed in front of mangles and starching mangles, is shown (Mather and Platt) in Fig. 51. It comprises a stationary (LLVIG GNV ATHIV]A) UATIOY DNIGVaAUdG JO NOIONULSNOO— ‘Ze “Ol (LLVIQ GNV UAHLVI) AATIOY ONIGVaAYIG—'[G “NL L V 56 ‘(NOG GNV UAWIVAA ‘“S) TIVY AIWIHOg—'0g “YIA HAT ANN RN MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS On steel shaft on which are keyed two spirally grooved cylinders, A and B (see Fig. 52), and the roller is built up of a number of grooved brass floating strips each having roller studs which traverse the spiral grooves A or B. The brass floating strips are further Fic. 583a.—WoopEN SPREADING ROLLER (TayLor Bros.). Fic. 53b.—ConicaL OPENING ROLLERS (MATHER AND PLATT). supported by grooved end plates such that the lateral movement of the brass strips is not prevented. Fabric passing over the roller causes the latter to rotate so that the studs attached to the brass strips roll forward within the spiral grooves and thereby cause the strips to slide successively outwards from and inwards towards the centre 58 TEXTILE MACHINERY of the roller, thus spreading the fabric and removing creases. The roller is set so that the strips reach the limits of their inward motion just at the point where the fabric arrives upon the roller and so that the strips reach the limits of their outward motion where the fabric leaves the roller. This type of spreading roller is often fitted with wooden floating strips (see Fig. 53a) and is used for both wet and dry fabrics. In designing this device care must be taken to provide for lubrication of the studs without allowing the risk of oil stains to the fabric passing over the roller. Conical Opening Rollers.—These rollers (Mather and Platt) are suitable for ensuring the even and straight running of fabric in open width, and in Fig. 53b they are shown h r mt - i iim i mall | = In England, cylindrical steam-heated rotating cylinders, or “cans,” as they are sometimes called, are very largely used for drying fabrics; on the Continent, hot-air stenters or drying flues are more generally preferred. Drying cylinders are more economical and efficient, and these are the reasons for their popularity in England, but hot flues and stenters have the advantage that the fabric being dried comes into contact with the minimum of metallic surface, so that it has a better handle after drying. Further, fabric may be stretched and its weft threads straightened during drying on a stenter. Drying Cylinders.—The general construction of a set of drying cylinders (Mather and Platt) is shown in Fig. 57, in which some thirty cylinders are mounted on three pairs of uprights. Each cylinder is geared to an adjacent one, and the lowest cylinder on each upright is driven by a spur wheel attached to the main driving shaft. Altern- atively, the cylinders may be driven by mitre gear from vertical shafts. The cylinders are placed step-wise so that fabric in its travel over them utilises the greatest possible amount of cylinder surface. Steam under a pressure of 15 to 30 lb. per square inch is supplied to each cylinder through the cast iron uprights, which are hollow, the supply to each cylinder being Fic. 57.—CyitinpER Dryinc MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 62 Fic. 58a. Fie. 58d. PIG. 58e: ConsrrucTION OF DryING CYLINDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 63 64 TEXTILE MACHINERY through the “ dollhead ”’ bearings by which each cylinder is supported and attached to the vertical upright. At the same time, condensed water in the cylinders is dis- charged through the dollhead bearing and flows downwards through the hollow upright and is finally removed from the system by means of an attached steam trap (see page 309). The construction of the cylinders is of importance, and is shown in Figs. 58a, b and c. A cylinder is usually made of sheet copper, but cheaper ones are made with tinned iron sheet. The usual diameter of a cylinder is about 23 inches, thus having a circumference of about 2 yards, but cylinders used for drying after printing often have a diameter of about 28 inches. It is not possible to construct seamless cylinders of so large a diameter, so that a longitudinal brazed or soldered joint is necessary, and if this joint or seam is imperfectly made it often becomes, owing to steam leakage, a means for spoiling fabrics. Generally drying cylinders must be built to withstand both outward and inward forces, for, when in use, the normal internal steam pressure is 15 to 30 lb. and may reach 45 lb. per square inch, while on cooling, an internal vacuum may be produced Fic. 59.—DRyYING CYLINDER (BENTLEY AND JACKSON). by partial or complete condensation of the steam within, so that the cylinder is then subject to an atmospheric compression of up to 15 lb. per square inch. Fig. 58) shows the construction of a cylinder capable of withstanding these forces, and it will be seen that the cylinder has two cast iron ends and is strengthened by means of T-shaped rings. Each end of the cylinder is provided with an automatic vacuum valve such that when the pressure within the cylinder is below atmospheric Ie HE air is admitted to the cylinder, thus preventing the formation of a vacuum. Another safety precaution consists of inserting a steam pressure reducing valve between the main steam supply and the drying cylinders. The heat transference from steam to the surface of the cylinder is retarded by condensed water within the cylinder, so that it is usual to provide cylinders with water buckets or collectors for the purpose of ensuring that the water is rapidly discharged through the dollhead. Such collectors are shown in Fig. 58), and consist of suitably formed tinned copper strip arranged to be effective independently of the direction of rotation of the cylinder. Another type of water ejector (Bentley and Jackson) is shown in Fig. 59. It consists of a spiral open gutter of 1 cross-section and is connected at the discharge end with a bucket having a branch projecting into the dollhead of the cylinder. Whatever type of collector is used, the water in the cylinder » | Alpes AUS aa ee RAS exe ay KR Ye WAS KOR AS Siem ia a ome {] - 55 PA ay CAPAC Rua g wae 1 ea eee te M ES Sites ama Nia NS PPS ‘S ae fa 9 ia “Fa eer | IK eevee ct A aVa: PAA K a. —f Bx a 3 FIRE java Silents A qs 5 cane ric ae ra it(caitonee eo WIS J aa NI SED CH o-& fs EY . AR / Ce ILLIA LL PLLLLLLJLL ELE LLLLLLLLELLLLLLLLLLILLLLLLLILILLLELLLIELLLLLLELLLLLALLLLLLELLEZTITTLILLLLLLLLLLALLZILLLZLL cr for) Or Fic. 60.—DryinG CYLINDERS FoR DryINnG FaBRIC ON ONE Sipe (MATHER AND Parr). 66 TEXTILE MACHINERY is guided along the gutter or channel and discharged in the dollhead and on towards the main steam trap. A feature of the cylinder shown in Fig. 58a is that the nozzles which form part of the bearing are detachable and can therefore be replaced after wear. Fabric passing over a standard arrangement of drying cylinders is heated on both sides. In many instances, however, it is undesirable to let the face side of a fabric make contact with the cylinder. For instance, fabric having raised effects would be much flattened and its pleasing appearance diminished. For the drying of such fabrics, small copper rollers are placed adjacent to the drying cylinders and the fabric is threaded around these as shown in Fig. 60. For the same purpose, it is also possible to utilise winches instead of rollers, and a machine (Mather and Platt) having these Fic. 61.—CyLINDER AND WINCH DryING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). incorporated in its construction is shown in Fig. 61; it is suitable for drying on one side only fabrics heavily starched on one side and also those having a plush or other raised surface. Although drying cylinders are usually driven by means of spur wheels and less frequently by bevel gear wheels, a more efficient drive is shown in Figs. 63a and b. For this type of drive, a vertical driving shaft is fixed between the ends of the cylinders and the inside of the frame, and to it is secured a number of worm gears, one for each cylinder. Each worm is in mesh with a worm wheel fitted on the cylinder end as shown in Fig. 63a, so that each cylinder is then driven independently. The worm runs in an oil-bath as shown in Fig. 632 and the drive is thus effected with the minimum of strain, noise and backlash; the possibility of oil from the gear wheels being thrown . on the fabric being dried is reduced considerably. Drying cylinders are also arranged horizontally, but the principles of their design are not thereby altered. MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 67 Design of Dollheads.—The design of dollhead bearings for drying cylinders is of considerable importance, for such bearings must allow, without the risk of leakage, of a continuous supply of steam under pressure to the rotating cylinder and also allow the discharge of water arising from the condensed steam. Fig. 62 shows the ordinary type of dollhead bearing in which steam and water leakage are prevented by screwing the trunnion, C, tightly against the packing, B, within the stuffing-box as shown. At first, such a dollhead behaves satisfactorily and no leakage occurs, though it is evident that the tight grip of the packing on the rotating end, A, of the cylinder produces friction and thereby demands greater driving power. However, as the bearing wears the trunnion falls out of centre by an amount corresponding to the degree of wear and, on tightening the packing, it eventually occurs that the cylinder end is slightly lifted and rides on a thin layer of packing. With further wear, leakage of steam through the packing frequently occurs and also the friction exerted on the cylinder end becomes greater. aa \\ nna AN AAT UUUUWU UL a WU ee ae) Fig. 62.—DoLLHEAD FOR DRYING CYLINDERS. The disadvantages of the usual dollhead as described above are overcome by designing the bearing (W. P. Evans) as shown in Figs. 63a and b. In this type of bearing the packing is contained in a rotary stuffing-box having a faced joint so that as the bearing wears the stuffing-box automatically adjusts itself and maintains a steam- tight joint. Further, since the packing rotates with the cylinder end, this type of bearing is subject to much less friction than is the case with the ordinary dollhead. As shown in Fig. 63a, lubrication is effected by packing a mixture of grease and yarn into a hole in the top of the bearing. Another improved type of dollhead is shown in Fig. 64. In this case, the cylinder is mounted on ball bearings, 12, these being secured by an adapter, 10. The outer seating, 7, carried on the bucket ring, 6, does not rotate, but is free to move subject to the pressure of the spring, 4, towards or away from the adapter and thus allow for expansion and contraction of the cylinder. All friction in the dollhead is thus between the steam joint made by the faces of the adapter, 10, and the outer seating, 7, these faces being lubricated by the oil ring, 9 Walker Cell Drying Machine.—Quite a different type of machine (Samuel Walker) 68 TEXTILE MACHINERY for drying fabrics is shown in Fig. 65. It consists of a number of rectangular cells each about 5 inches deep, 44 feet wide and any suitable length (according to the width of fabric) cast from a special alloy. The cells are arranged one above the other in two tiers, each being slightly inclined to the horizontal and supported by upright cast iron columns. Steam under about 25 lb. pressure per square inch is admitted to each cell, and the fabric to be dried passes over the surface of the cells. The fabric may be in actual contact with the surface or it may pass at a slight distance from the surface of the cells, and further, the passage of the fabric is assisted by driven brass seamless Special hof neck Faced Joint Rorary Cup. WormWheel. Yarn Grease. | Common Dacking, Cover Adjusting. Crew Tae . LL Suu HAN Py D> — _Secrional Elevation showing —— —_Worm, Wheel and Dollhead —— —in Pposirion. Fic. 63a.—DoLLHEAD AND WorM DRIVE ror DRYING CYLINDERS (W. P. Evans Aanp Sons). rollers positioned one above the other at both ends of the machine. About 14 h.p. is required for driving the rollers, and this is the only power required, since all other parts of the machine are stationary. The general construction of a cell is shown in Fig. 66. Steam enters at one corner and travels in the path shown between the baffle plates, driving condensed water before it to the outlet in the other corner and then to the steam trap. As is evident, this type of drying machine is very compact, each cell being about equivalent in drying power to two ordinary drying cylinders. In tests carried out with this machine, the consumption of steam for drying a certain quantity of wet MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 69 fabric was only one-half of that necessary in the usual type of drying machine consisting of cylinders. A further advantage of the cell drying machine is that the difficulty of supplying steam to rotating cylinders without troublesome leaks is completely avoided. By means of this type of machine fabric may be dried up to 100 yards per minute. Looped Cloth Drying Machines.—Although drying cylinders are the most efficient means for drying woven fabrics, they suffer from several disadvantages. For instance, the fabric being dried must necessarily be in contact with the metal cylinder, and while this contact may affect the colour or other preparing substances within the fabric, DRYING CYLINDER {oy* Valve —_Secfional Elevation of Worm _—= —_ond Wheel with Dollhead and=—— —_ O:! Bath removed.— : Fic. 636.—DoLLHEAD AND WorM Drive ror Dryine CyLinpEers (W. P. Evans anp Sons), it will almost certainly give the fabric a harsh handle. Further, fabric passing over drying cylinders is subject to a warp tension which in many instances is undesirable, particularly when the fabric contains figured effects. When these disadvantages must be avoided, use must be made of hot air stentering machines (see page 181) or looped cloth drying machines. A looped cloth drying machine usually consists of a closed chamber through which fabric may travel in the form of loops, each loop being supported by a rod or pole attached to a travelling chain; the drying is effected by means of hot air. A typical machine (Tomlinsons) is shown in Fig. 67 and consists of a chamber or drying tunnel I y d Y; LUM [LLL A ee cA, SECTIONAL ELEVATION Fic. 64.—Do.LLHEAD FOR DRYING CYLINDERS (SiR J. FaRMER, NORTON AND Co.). HE Ed " TILE & Fic. 65.—CrELL Dryinc MAcHINE (S. WALKER AND Sons). 70 MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 71 in which a travelling chain travels in a rectangular path as shown. By means of fans each of about | h.p. air is drawn over gilled steam heating pipes, being thereby heated and circulated through the chamber in the directions shown in Fig. 68. The fans are placed in the top of the chamber and the heating units in each side. The circulation of hot air is in Steam Inlet a direction opposite to the forward travel of the fabric. The links of the endless chains are provided with outriggers which carry the horizontal poles necessary for supporting the loops of fabric, these outriggers and poles being clearly shown in Fig. 69. The poles carrying the fabric are generally made of wood (beech, sycamore or lancewood) or preferably of Monel metal, and their travel requires about 1 to 1} h.p. The loops or folds of fabric are about 4 to 5 yards in length, and the machine can carry fabric up to 150 inches wide. The formation of the folds and the method of travel of fabric through the machine are shown in Fig. 69. The pole-carrying device is driven through the constant speed cloth-carrying roller (left-hand top corner) and gives a varying stroke to the pawl A Q Outlet Fic. 66.—CoNSTRUCTION OF DRYING Crus (8S. WALKER AND Sons). Fig. 67.—Loorep CirotH DrRyING MACHINE (TOMLINSONS). through an adjustable rod and lever. The travel of the poles is intermittent, so that time is allowed for the looping of the fabric, this intermittent motion being produced by the cam, B, engaging the pawl C from the ratchet wheel, D, and the period of the motion is controlled by the cam, B, which pawl A rotates. The cloth is carried forward _—_s ‘(SNOSNIINO],) ANTHOVIT OSNIAUQ HLOIQ agao0o7T NI HOIAa(, ONIAOO'T—'69 ‘O1T ( ie = _ — — ——_ — “2s ee ee wl w a ye eS NN. ee _—= i Seems = —_ |. ) 1 MATT halahahnhahahihihihahitinil ShSASASASASAS LE LSLSLSASLSASLELELSRSRSLE LER EES | \ | \ ‘oo | i st | a | d Hj | 1S WA i as i | < j | SS Se eT TT | ~ Ny ae ; » 1 : : oe ge rs) as 8S SSE WUC SRR 2 ——— IK LOA POSIT BLS ti q ss, * BIBS I PeRE AORN Naa eae WI ean pane S iy en iy 7 : iG y && a, aN PO ak SSC VDOT HE DARKS I MMOD, NS LEIA a LI ACE SCREEN LES ALI SNE PIE ESTED Bi RASPES ASTI CIDOB S 72 y) = PSI y (UE ESS cae eee geal @| 8] Requlersctieber sy ~ ¥. = ~\. \ ~ ! F gnc 9 a = aa i Ea fl | “ =33 y ; Z| 4 : 4 i 4 CLL)" — Vi VIL PLT : ) Fic. 70.—Loorep Fasric Drying MACHINE (RADEBEULER-MASCHINENFABRIK AuGusT KoEBIG). X \ IS WI NNN IK 73 CLLLLL DS ems (creme LLL LLL Le —— 7, a 77EE WEEE 7 Jf sX, bh —$Vh VU dll fl Kel fe YLELA NL 7 7 Fic. 7la.—Loorep Fasric Drying MacHINE (RADEBEULER-MASCHINENFABRIK AUGUST KOEBIG). 74 TEXTILE MACHINERY when the ratchet wheel, D, is rotated by the pawl C, and the spur wheels, F, connect this motion to the chain wheel, E, the pole arm, G, moving through 60 degrees while the fabric advances the distance X. As the fabric advances, the arm, G, closes the wide loop. At the next movement of the pawl A which operates cam B, this disengages and gives a period allowing the formation of the next loop, and when this is complete the cam B reassumes its normal position and the pawl C engages again. At the delivery end of the chamber, simultaneously with the advance of the fabric, the chain wheel, E2, rotates through 60 degrees by reason of its connection with chain wheel E1 through the endless chain, J. At the same time the outrigger drops through 60 degrees, thus freeing the loop of fabric K which is then drawn upwards by the fabric draw roller shown (top right-hand corner). It is thus evident that in this machine fabric is dried under a minimum of tension and its handle is not deleteriously affected by contact with hot metallic surfaces. Such a machine is suitable for all kinds of fabrics, woven or knitted. Another type of looped fabric drying machine is « shown in Figs. 70, 7la and 716, and is of interesting 1G. 71b.—CIRCULATION OF AIR IN i . : : Loorep Fapric Dryinc Macuine construction, since the feed and delivery of the dried CORRE Gentoo eee fabric are adjacent. Wet fabric is brought to the machine (an unreeling machine is utilised when the wet fabric is on batch rollers) and is automatically looped over the poles travelling on endless travelling chains, so that the fabric is slowly conveyed to the turntable, where the poles describe a semi-circle and the fabric continues to the delivery end (Fig. 71a). The endless conveyor chains descend for their return while the fabric is batched up or plaited down. The looping of the fabric and its delivery at the machine are automatically effected. The current of warm air through the machine is maintained by fans as shown in Fig. 710. MACHINERY FOR WOOLLEN FABRICS Wool Scouring Machines.—Woollen fabrics are never cleansed by the methods employed for cotton fabrics, and indeed wool is not bleached to the same extent, since this is frequently unnecessary. Usually woollen fabrics are simply cleansed by treat- ment in a scouring machine such as that shown in Fig. 72. This machine consists of a hooded trough containing an alkaline scouring liquor and two wood (beech) rollers of large diameter, the lower one being driven. Suitable arrangements for heating the scouring liquor are provided. In operation, one or more pieces of woollen fabric are sewn together so as to form an endless band, and this continuously passes between the rollers, the remainder of the fabric remaining slack in the trough. The rollers usually revolve at about 60 revolutions per minute (depending on their diameter) and require about 4 h.p. In scouring machines a removable small trough is frequently provided immediately underneath the rollers for the purpose of collecting the liquor first squeezed out of the fabric, since, being dirty, it is better removed than returned to the remaining liquor. Scouring machines are constructed for treating woollen fabrics in rope form or EE MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS fea open width. The latter are usually provided with scroll rollers (see page 58) for maintaining the fabric in open width. Milling Machines.—These machines are employed for shrinking or felting woollen piece goods such that they acquire any desired density and handle. In the process of milling, woollen material is maintained moist with alkaline or, less frequently, acid solutions while pressed together between rollers or beaten by falling wooden hammers. Those machines using hammers are similar in construction to those described later (see page 221), and in such machines the stroke of the hammers may be obtained by a Fic. 72.—WoouLEN Fasric ScourRING MAcHINE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). positive crank motion or by gravity. Better milling results are obtained, however, by means of roller milling machines, which are especially suitable for fabrics. The essential principles of construction of a milling machine are shown in Fig. 73. Such a machine consists of a wooden or an iron plate chamber containing two pressure rollers, a spout, a lid provided with top weights, a drag roller, a draft board and a mouthpiece. Woollen fabric, the selvedges sewn together so that the face of the fabric is inside the long bag thus formed, in an endless length passes over the drag roller, through a draft board (for regulating the path of the fabric), into the mouthpiece, between the rollers into the contracted space within the spout and downwards into the bottom of the chamber ready for further passage through the rollers. The positions of the mouthpiece and spout are generally adjustable. Milling or alteration in the Weights Flanged Foller Dratt Board I & ED. KMWHITELEY & SONS, ockWOOD, HUDDERSFIELD.ENG, HH Mi i | ay CT Fic. 74.—Minitinc MacuinE (WM. WHITELEY AND Sows). 76 MACHINERY FOR PREPARING FABRICS 77 structure of the woollen fabric occurs while the fabric passes through the rollers and spout and is regulated by the pressure on the rollers and on the lid. A typical milling machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 74. It contains two oak rollers each 18 inches in diameter and 10 inches wide, both rollers being driven and maintained under pressure by means of compression springs, and worm gear is provided so that the pressure on both sides of the rollers may be adjusted simultaneously. The mouthpiece is glass lined and is provided with two upright sycamore guiding rollers. Pressure on the lid is maintained by a lever and weights. Such a machine requires about 6 h.p., the rollers being driven at 90 to 130 revolutions per minute. This particular machine is also provided with a trough so that the machine may also be used for scouring. a % ons ~e WMTELEX foe Fic. 75.—HypDRO-EXHAUSTER FOR Faprics (WM. WHITELEY AND Sons). Hydro-exhauster.—Before drying, wet treated woollen fabric is freed from excess water by a passage through a squeezing machine or mangle (see page 60), or by means of a centrifuge (see page 224) or an hydro-exhauster (Wm. Whiteley), shown in Fig. 75, This latter machine has the advantage that it produces no creases in the fabric being treated. It consists of a cast iron cylindrical chamber having an upper longitudinal slot whose length may be adjusted by sliding cover plates. The chamber is in com- munication with a vacuum pump. The machine is also provided with guiding rollers and a draw roller for the fabric. In operation, fabric is guided over the slot, and moisture is thereby drawn from the fabric into the chamber by reason of the vacuum maintained therein. Much of the water originally present in the fabric is thus removed, so that the fabric is then ready for drying. Drying Machines.—Woollen fabrics may be dried over steam-heated cylinders such as are employed for cotton fabrics (see page 61), but this method of drying gives the fabric a harsh handle. Hence woollen fabrics are more generally dried by means of hot air in machines which are known as Tentering Machines. Such a machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 76 and consists of a chamber through which hot air is drawn 78 TEXTILE MACHINERY by anexhaust fan. Horizontal travelling endless clip chains on each side of the chamber are driven by sprocket wheels at both ends of the chamber. The woollen fabric is dried during numerous passages backwards and forwards through the chamber, being carried and maintained in open width by means of the horizontal travelling clip chains Fic. 76.—TENTERING MacuiInE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). driven by sprocket wheels placed at the ends of the chamber. The clips are of the pin type as shown in Figs. 77 and 78. The pins of the clips pierce and thereby hold the selvedges of the fabric. With the exception that vertical (not horizontal) sprocket wheels are employed for driving the clip chains, the operation of the machine NSSy SASS sy ; Fig. 77.—Pin Cuip FoR TENTERING Fic. 78.—Pin Crie ror TENTERING MacHINES (CLAY AND ATKINSON). MacHINES (CLAY AND ATKINSON). is similar to that of the stenter frame fully described later (see Fig. 153). As shown in Fig. 76, fresh air may be admitted to various parts of the chamber and the hot air is provided by a multitubular heater. Fabric dried in such a machine has a soft full handle. Another type of tentering machine (Wm. Whiteley) is shown in Fig. 79. It is . : ; Fic. 794.—TENTERING MACHINE (FELIx BILLIG). 79 80 TEXTILE MACHINERY similar in construction to the machine described above, but the heating elements consist of horizontal layers of steam-heated serpentine coils placed between the travelling fabric. Fabric passing through the machine is thus dried by hot air and radiant heat produced by the heated coils. The machine allows rapid drying, but the handle of the dried fabric is generally harsher than that of fabric dried in the previouslv described type of tentering machine. The arrangement of another type of tentering machine provided with drying cylinders for pre-drying is shown in Fig. 79a. CHAPTER II MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING In dyeing, as in washing processes, a relative motion must be established between the textile fabric and the liquor with which it is being treated, so that thorough and uniform treatment of the fabric is obtained. In dyeing fabrics it is almost always found that uniform and complete treatment of the fabric is obtained by moving it through a more or less stationary dye liquor. Fabrics are seldom dyed by forcing a dye liquor through them while stationary within a container. Thus fabric dyeing is essentially different from the dyeing of loose wool and cotton, an operation which is generally carried out by circulating a dye liquor through perforated vessels containing the loose material. Cotton, wool and silk fabrics are therefore usually dyed in rope form or in open width by leading the fabric through a dye liquor suitably heated and the various machines employed differ chiefly in the devices they contain for ensuring the motion of the fabric. In some dyeing machines, the fabric is completely dyed by one passage through one or more dye liquor vats; alternatively, the fabric is dyed during several to-and-fro passages through a dye liquor contained in one vat, or an endless length of fabric is dyed while being gradually and repeatedly drawn in either direction through a dye liquor by means of an overhead winch. Further, dyeing is sometimes effected by passage of fabric through a padding mangle containing a suitable dye liquor. These different types of dyeing may now be considered. Rope Dye Beck.—Vig. 80 shows a machine (so-called dye-beck) by means of which fabric in rope form may be rapidly dyed. It is largely used for dyeing fabrics after printing and also ordinary cotton fabrics in pale shades. The machine consists of a wooden or iron V-shaped vat for holding dye liquor and an upper driven winch extending the full length of the vat. Fabric is led into the machine at one end and threaded up as shown. Successive passages of the fabric over the winch are separated by means of the wooden or porcelain pegs shown in front of the machine, and a certain amount of slack fabric is allowed to lie in the bottom of the vat. Such a machine will hold about 1000 yards of fabric and the whole is continually drawn out of and into the dye liquor by the upper rotating winch. The vat is usually provided with a perforated steam pipe, thus enabling the dye liquor to be heated as required. In some machines of this type, the guiding pegs are secured to a hinged horizontal rail, and when entanglement of the fabric occurs, this peg rail lifts and thereby operates a lever by which the drive to the winch is automatically disengaged ; damage to the fabric is thus avoided. Open Width Winch Dyeing Machine.—A type of machine (Wm. Whiteley) similar to that described above is shown in Fig. 81 and is adapted for the dyeing of all kinds of fabrics in open width. The machine is simply constructed and comprises an overhead winch placed above a rectangular dye vat which is fitted with a supply of steam and water, and with suitable outlet plugs. Freely rotating wooden or other guide rollers are placed across the ends and bottom of the tank and an endless length of fabric in open width is continuously drawn out of the vat and over the winch. During the operation of dyeing, practically all the fabric is being slowly dragged along the bottom of the vat. Such a machine should be provided with easy means for readily reversing the direction of rotating of the winch. Another winch machine (Longclose Engineering Co.) and suitable for dyeing cotton, woollen and artificial knitted fabric is shown in Fig. 82. This machine is constructed 6 81 SS SV \ \ SBCKRK \ ) \ N Yi \ \ Yi Vi | i (00) | TT C= LOTT i) =A) TT SOMITE CTC OS) [pa ae | ' i aly (i i oli: TU Ul | i | i il i Fic. 80.—Rore Dyr Breck (MATHER AND PLatTT). YW a ae PU HIE Pats iy be id eS NG A Inge (UBT HT RIT EB I He IM 9 WEL HIME Ld Ye WA Vy YJ} Yl Li x 82 MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 83 with vitralite and hardite throughout, so that it is practically stainless and is resistant to all types of dye liquor. It comprises a dye vat fitted with heating elements, and an upper winch and peg rail. The winch is driven through fast and loose pulleys. This machmme is also suitable for dyeing printed goods. Dye Jigs.—Probably the most generally used machine for dyeing all kinds of fabrics in open width is that shown in Fig. 83 and usually known as a jig or simply jig. Many variations in the design of jigs have been made chiefly for the purpose Fie. 81.—Wincw DyxEInG MacuineE (WM. WHITELEY AND SONS). of adapting them to different types of fabric, but the essential constructional features of all jigs are the same and are clearly shown in Fig. 84. A jig consists of a V-shaped dye vat which may be made of wood, cast iron, cast iron ends with wood sides or of stainless material such as vitralite, and upper draw rollers and lower guiding rollers. The fabric being dyed is first wound on roller A (see Fig. 84) and is then led downwards around guiding rollers C, E, F and D, being then wound on roller B. The guiding rollers are not driven but rotate freely, whereas A and B are driven alternately from a side shaft by means of mitre wheels which are frequently fitted with claw clutches. Rollers E and F are always submerged in the dye liquor, but C and D may or may not be, according to the amount of dye liquor present in the 84 TEXTILE MACHINERY jig. In dyeing, fabric is drawn from A to B (B being driven), then from B to A (A being driven) and this is repeated until the fabric has the shade desired. Generally each passage through the liquor is known as an “ end ” and dyeing is seldom completed in less than 4 or 5 ends. Between the different ends, additions of dye are made to the jig liquor according to the shade being matched. Further, the dye liquor is heated or cooled as desired. ‘The heating elements in the jig seldom consist of more than a perforated steam pipe, although a closed steam coil is advantageous, since it enables dilution of the dye liquor during heating to be avoided. > © @0e@e 8 28 8 20 8 8 2 6 82% 6 8 © 8 6 8 @ 0 0 6:6 © Fic. 82.—WincH Dyrrnc Macuine (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING Co.). It will be observed that during each end, fabric passes through the dye liquor at a constantly increasing speed, depending on the diameter of the draw-roller. After dyeing, the fabric, now batched on one of the draw rollers A or B, must be transferred to a roller which can be taken from the machine and delivered to a mangle through which the dyed fabric can be squeezed free from excess water or dye liquor. For this purpose a wooden roller, G, having an iron or brass shaft is placed in contact with either A or B (the one carrying no fabric) as shown in Fig. 85 and supported by the iron bars (centre irons), R. The fabric is then threaded between B and G, being Fic. 83.—Dye Jics (MATHER AND PuatTTt). Fabric Fic. 84.—SEcTION oF A DYE Jia. Fic. §85.—Uprer Rouuers OF A Dye JIG. 85 (LLVIG GNV UHHLV) SHATIOY ONIZTAAdG HLIM dif) FAQ '98 OT 86 MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 87 wrapped once or twice around G. On driving roller B, fabric is drawn from A and is rolled around G, since this is rotated by frictional contact with the surface of B. It will be noticed that the frictional driving of G by B is through a constantly increasing thickness of fabric; this friction is sometimes likely to damage very delicate fabrics. During the operation of dyeing, fabric passing from one roller to the other should be under definite tension and for this reason it is advisable to retard slightly the roller from which the fabric is being unwound. This result is obtained by means of small pulley wheels keyed to the ends of the shafts of rollers A and B, a friction upon these being exerted as required by means of a leather belt to which is attached an adjustable weight as shown in Fig. 83. It is sometimes desirable to squeeze the fabric wound on either draw roller during dyeing in order that the fabric on that roller may contain the minimum amount of dye liquor. This is accomplished by providing the jig with squeezing rollers which press on rollers A and B as shown in Fig. 86, the pressure being obtained by means of levers and weights. Fic. 87.—UrprrerR Portion oF A DyE JIG (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CO.). Having now indicated some of the methods by which fabrics are dyed and otherwise treated with liquors on jigs, some further points concerning their construction as shown in Fig. 83 will be appreciated. The upper draw rollers with supports for batching rollers are clearly shown. In the machines shown, the friction on the draw rollers is obtained by means of leather straps attached to a sliding weight, so that adjustable friction can be put on either roller as desired. The outlet for dye liquor is shown at one end of the jig, and here it may be mentioned that this outlet cannot be made too large; jig men should be paid for working the fabric in the jig, not for watching 40 or 50 gallons of liquor trickle through an inadequate sized outlet. Machines as shown in Fig. 86 having squeezing rollers are suitable for dyeing with sulphur and vat colours. The construction of the upper part of a dye jig (Swindells Engineering Co.) is clearly shown in Fig. 87. The drive to either roller is through D and the claw clutches C operated by the rod F. A is a centre iron supporting the batching-up roller B. The jig shown in Fig. 88 allows fabric to be drawn through the dye liquor at a constant speed. In this case the roller E driven at constant speed by D is used only as a draw-roller, the fabric being wound on the upper roller, F. The travel of the 88 TEXTILE MACHINERY fabric through the jig is thus independent of the amount of fabric wound on F. The pulley wheels A, B and C allow the reversal of direction of travel of the fabric. Although dye jigs are nominally provided for the dyeing of fabric, they are used for all kinds of operations such as scouring, bleaching, chemicking and souring and must therefore be capable of withstanding the action of alkalis and acids. Further, 1{9) [p> = NG Fic. 88.—Constant SPEED Dyk Jia (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING OO.). since one jig may be used consecutively for these different operations, it must be constructed of a material which does not readily stain and may be easily washed clean with water. Wood jigs are capable of withstanding the action of dilute acids and weak alkalis, but are attacked by caustic alkalis and oxidising agents (e.g., solutions containing Fic. 89.—Dye Jig ROLLER (S. WALKER AND Sons). peroxides). Iron jigs withstand alkalis very well, but are susceptible to the action of dilute acids. Hence wood and iron, though very largely used, are not entirely satis- factory and for this reason various other materials have come into use for the making or lining of jigs. Foremost in importance among these are Monel metal, vitralite, vulcanite and coralite. Vulcanite, however, suffers from the disadvantage that it tends to split under the action of hot and cold liquors. *(‘sougd UOTAV,L) SIF ZAC AOL HOLATIO NOW JO NOMOAULsNoQ— ‘(sougq HOTAV],) DIC AAC WOT HOLAIO NOWMOUA—'06 “YL 16 “OL 89 90 TEXTILE MACHINERY The draw rollers of jigs are generally of wood or porcelain. Wood rollers tend to split, readily become stained and are not easily cleaned except by application of bleaching solutions. On the other hand, porcelain rollers are free from these defects, although heavy and of large heat capacity. Fig. 89 shows a roller which gives about the best all-round results. It consists of an earthenware shell about 1 inch thick and through its centre runs a steel shaft secured by means of cast iron end caps which make a perfectly liquor-tight joint with the porcelain. The surface of the earthenware roller is carefully polished and glazed, and is perfectly true. The end caps are level with the surface of the earthenware shell. Friction Clutches for Jigs.—The ordinary type of clutch as fitted to many jigs is very jerky in its action, and in stopping and starting a jig the fabric passing through it is subjected to considerable strain. To- day, however, when many fabrics are particularly delicate because of the artificial silk threads which they contain, easy- running and starting jigs are required. ee pee ete ee tet DIRE SSS The tendency is therefore to supply jigs with friction clutches. A jig draw roller fitted with one type of friction clutch (Taylor Bros.) is shown in Fig. 90 and its construction is made more clear by reference to Fig. 91. In starting a jig fitted with such a friction clutch, the starting lever is operated so that the sliding sleeve, D, is pushed towards the driving shaft and its conical end thereupon acts on the cam-lever, E, and imparts radial movement to the cam, G. This cam is machine cut in the form of a cycloidal curve and in action has a rolling contact on the flat face of one end of the expanding ring, F, while the opposite end of the ring butts up against the adjusting} screw, H, so that the whole of the outer surface of friction ring makes contact with the inner surface of the shell, B, and the clutch is thus - put in gear and the roller rotates. When the sliding sleeve, D, is withdrawn, the motion of the cam- lever, E, is reversed, and the friction ring, F, is released from its contact with the shell, B, so that the roller becomes disengaged. When the draw roller is running disengaged there is ample clearance all round between the friction surfaces. Another useful type of friction clutch for dye jigs is shown in Figs. 92 and 93. In dyeing fabrics with dye liquors which are susceptible to aérial oxidation (for Fic. 93.—CoNSTRUCTION OF FRICTION CLUTCH FOR DYE JIG (ANDERTON). paseo ace rcscasiscreger MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 91 example, liquors containing vat dyestuffs), it is sometimes desirable to avoid emergence of the fabric from the dye liquor during dyeing. The jigs described above are charac- terised by having draw rollers above the dye vat and are therefore unsuitable for this purpose. The jig required must have its draw rollers completely submerged, and such a jig is shown in Fig. 94. This machine contains two driven draw rollers carried in the bottom of the dye vat and which are operated by the bevelled gear wheels and clutch shown. A further innovation in this machine consists in winding the fabric, ———— ——— 2 PPT TTT aL Ee POLIT ILI IPL eer FAV Fy Tg Fe TeV gO 5 Pg C6 oF) AO Sg FEF (STV aF FTC, Py eV Ee ES Fic. 94.—Dvye Jia with SUBMERGED Draw Roxiers (E. COHNEN). not from one draw roller to the other, but upon rollers which rest on the draw rollers and rotate by reason of their frictional contact. In this manner the rate of travel of the fabric through the dye liquor is constant and not ever-varying as is the case when fabric is wound from one draw roller upon another. The system of rollers shown above the jig are for the purpose of giving the fabric a run in air so that aérial oxidation of the vat colour dyed upon it may take place. Padding Mangle.—Fabric is also frequently mordanted and then dyed by passage in open width through a padding mangle such as that shown in Fig. 95. The two- 92 TEXTILE MACHINERY bowl padding mangle shown consists of an upper indiarubber bowl and a lower brass bowl which is driven through a spur wheel shown. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of compound levers and weights. Underneath the brass bowl is a wooden trough (not shown) containing a dye liquor or mordanting solution together with two or three freely rotating copper or wooden guiding rollers. The fabric enters the trough through tension rails, passes through the liquor and is then squeezed between the bowls. After leaving the nip, the mordanted or dyed fabric is then dried over Fic. 95.—Papping MancLE (MATHER AND PLATT). cylinders or on a stenter frame. This method is a very rapid one, but requires care if uniform shades are to be obtained. Generally it is very serviceable for pale shades or tinting. Other types of padding mangles are shown in Figs. 96, 97 and 98. Continuous Dyeing Machines Whenever large quantities of fabric are dyed to one shade such as Sulphur Black, Para Red, Aniline Black and Indigo, it becomes profitable to carry out the dyeing by a continuous method. By such methods it becomes possible to dye fabric by one single passage through a suitable machine. MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING’ 93 Machines usually employed for continuous dyeing comprise a number of rectangular tanks containing the various liquors essential to the dyeing process, each tank containing a number of freely rotating guiding rollers. Simple squeezing rollers are generally ae | “GODT ED DUFF OF ED ED UP ED BPD EF HD AF YATE A EG OF APU 0 LEP LF APP PLP PEASY ADE = - c PO CATT ed rol AAAALALL PURSES SESTSSS Fic. 98.—PADDING MANGLE. mounted over the partitions separating the tanks for the purpose of removing excess liquor from the fabric during its passage from one tank to the succeeding one. Sulphur Black Dyeing Machine.—A type of continuous dyeing machine is shown in Fig. 99 and is suitable for dyeing cotton fabrics with Sulphur Black. It comprises four tanks built up with cast iron plates and each mangle between the tanks consists ‘(LIVIG GNV UAHLV]Y) ANIHOVIY DNIDAC MOVIG WAHATAYS—'G6G ‘NIWy 94 MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 95 of a driven cast iron bowl pressed against an indiarubber-covered cast iron bowl by means of a lever and weights. Each tank is fitted with upper and lower rows of freely rotating guiding rollers, the lower row being close to the bottom of tank and the upper row at any desired height, according as to whether the fabric should emerge or not from the dye liquor contained in the tank. The cast iron bowls of the mangles are driven from a side shaft by means of bevelled gearing, and the nips thereby obtained are sufficient to draw the fabric through the machine. Each tank is provided with heating elements, an outlet and a supply of cold water. By means of valves shown outside the tanks, communication may be made between two consecutive tanks. In operation, fabric enters the machine through the overhead tension rails, passes through the tanks and is plaited down at the delivery end. In machines of this kind, arrangements must always be provided whereby the bowls of the mangles may be easily separated for threading-up purposes. In the machine shown here, this is done by means of acam motion. The tanks are constructed of iron, since this withstands better than wood the action of an alkaline sulphur black dye liquor. Para Red Dyeing Machine.—In the process for dyeing Para Red, cotton fabric is impregnated in a padding mangle, such as that previously described (see page 92), with an alkaline solution of 8-naphthol and dried in a hot flue (see page 135), is further impreg- nated with a solution of diazotised paranitraniline and after a short period, in which the Para Red shade develops, the fabric is then thoroughly washed in water, then soaped and finally dried. A machine suitable for carrying out these operations is shown in Fig. 100. The padding mangle has an upper indiarubber bowl and a lower brass bowl, pressure being obtained by means of compound levers and weights, and scrimp rails are also provided (see page 55). This padding mangle contains the diazotised para- nitraniline solution and since this solution tends to decompose when in contact with metals, the trough and guiding rollers should preferably be constructed of wood. Fabric leaving the mangle passes around a number of overhead rollers and in the time thereby occupied the diazo solution reacts with the @-naphthol in the cloth and a fine red colour is thus produced. The dyed fabric then passes through the con- tinuous washing and soaping tanks shown and after a final nip is dried on a vertical set of drying cylinders. Arrangements must be provided whereby the washing and soap liquors in the four tanks may be heated as desired. Of course the arrangements shown in Fig. 100 may be varied to suit individual requirements; those shown represent the general outlay of a dyeing plant of this type. Indigo Dyeing Machine.—Indigo dyed fabric is obtained by impregnating cotton or woollen fabric with a feebly alkaline solution of reduced indigo (indigo-white), exposing it to the air, whereby the indigo-white is oxidised to its full blue colour, and afterwards washing and soaping the fabric so that it may be freed from loosely adhering colour and impurities. Two suitable plants for effecting these operations continuously are shown in Figs. 101 and 102. The machine in Fig. 101 comprises two cast iron dye vats, each provided with substantial mangles having cast iron bowls and an overhead series of iron rollers. The upper and lower rows of the overhead rollers are of iron and are driven; the inter- mediate row are of wood and are freely rotating guiding rollers. Freely rotating iron guide rollers are also provided in the dye vats. Ns) Al CACACR B y Raz al ao, Oe fect) eS oe Oats Ne, by2 OF y Mae. aa 1-8 a a 4 <4] CGR Om KC jee : x Ao x aes >» \ | vil | Pa O O O O Q, 0 OOF O O 4 | optehlehdas! IT) altetlehdeld b 11 gs Sh ay SAS YH) SLAVE EKO YOY} —F5 U i O ili YEE Yj) © O b O O O o) vat O Ol 3s © @) S| L = = l) POSH SS ef heath © \ Ol oi U =P 5 Ol” tat a s 0 g J bal - - : : =< ==AIKN J 4 SS oO —N A S ff y / \ I ral U h L i | | — Lge) =) = = = i (a= Tams sii: apenas ff == Ss 7 =I V5 N eS rolae = Wreime . ele = 4 ae | | y= | Fie. 100.—Para Rep Dyeina Macuine (MATHER AND PLATT). ‘(LLIVIg GNV UAHLVY]) 09 IGNJT WOT ANTHOVIT ONIGAC SAOONTILNOON—'TOT ‘DIA on 98 TEXTILE MACHINERY In the process of dyeing, fabric is drawn through the first dye vat, containing a reduced indigo dye liquor, and after being squeezed in the mangle, the fabric passes upwards and traverses a number of the overhead system of rollers so that it is oxidised by the air and becomes blue. The fabric then passes downwards, enters the second dye vat, where it is further dyed with indigo and is again squeezed in the second mangle, passes upwards for a second aérial oxidation and then descends and passes through a washing tank and is then dried. Similar principles of dyeing underlie the construction of the other type of indigo dyeing machine shown in Fig. 102. This machine consists of four dye vats built up with cast iron plates and containing a framework carrying upper and lower rows of guiding rollers; the framework may be completely removed from the tank. A mangle consisting of two cast iron bowls is also provided with each dye vat. Between each dye vat is a slowly moving endless horizontal rubber apron or creeper. During the operations of dyeing, fabric passes through the first dye vat, is then drawn over the overhead winch and falls on one end of the creeper. The fabric is then drawn from the far end of the creeper and passes through similar processes in each of the other dye vats until it is finally plaited down ready for washing and drying. The high winch and slowly moving creeper (a slowly moving brattice, see page 270) allow a considerable quantity of slack fabric to lie for a few minutes between each dye vat and in this period the colour of the indigo is largely developed by aérial oxidation. In the design of machines for indigo dyeing, it should be remembered that the vat liquors tend to deposit sediment. Guiding rollers should therefore be placed at a distance from the bottom of the dye vat so that the fabric passes clear of the sediment. The machine shown in Fig. 102 is provided with agitators which prevent the accumulation of a sediment. Aniline Black Dyeing Machine.—Every year, huge quantities of cotton fabric are dyed black by means of a process involving the oxidation of aniline. This process is selected for obtaining a black shade, since it yields one of the fastest black shades known. The dyeing operation consists of impregnating cotton fabric with a cold solution containing an aniline salt (aniline hydrochloride), an oxidant (sodium chlorate) and a catalyst (copper sulphate, sodium ferrocyanide or ammonium vanadate), by means of one or more padding mangles, then drying the impregnated fabric by passage over a few drying cylinders, subsequently passing it over a number of wooden winches contained in a chamber in which the atmosphere is maintained at a suitable tem- perature and humidity. In the latter chamber, which is known as an ageing chamber or ager, the black colour of the fabric is largely developed as a result of the process of oxidation which occurs within the fibres of the fabric. Afterwards, the black shade is completely developed and rendered ungreenable by passing the fabric through a continuous chroming and washing machine and the fabric is then dried. The opera- tion of chroming consists of treating the fabric, after ageing, with a hot or cold weakly acid solution of sodium bichromate. The machine used for chroming and washing is similar in construction to that described previously (see Fig. 99). Fig. 103 shows one type of plant employed for dyeing Aniline Black. It com- prises a padding mangle, a tension compensator (see page 133), four drying cylinders (LETDEIIITLTIET ILL iC LLL SSE =| = — 4 1 7 Cy ie ( t 1 nH pL {| EH —— ry----- Seya=- == eee yee Fic. 102.—Continuvous DYEING MACHINE ror INDIGO (MATHER AND PLATT). a ea (GLVIG GNV YAHLV]) ANIHOVI, ONIGAG HOVIGE ANITINV—'E€OT “DIA i | il I 100 SSS SPSS SSS Sp SGU GSES HT o : S| re esol anne SHARALCGEE JSP E SES pene | irra ae mee XX, ~ MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 101 and a brick chamber containing 51 wooden winches, each 23 inches in diameter and arranged in four horizontal rows. The winches are driven by spur wheels and the chamber is heated by means of closed steam pipes placed below, between and above the winches, a gentle current of air being drawn continuously through the chamber by means of an exhaust fan. The mangle is provided with two vulcanite covered cast iron bowls and a central indiarubber bowl, pressure being obtained by means of compound levers and weights ; both the vulcanite bowls are driven so that slippage of the fabric is avoided. Fig. 103 clearly shows the path taken by the fabric, the aged fabric returning to and being plaited down at the feeding end of the machine. The size of the chamber varies but usually holds at least 150 yards of fabric at any particular moment. The ageing plant shown in Fig. 104 is more substantial and is capable of dealing with fabric at a greater speed. It differs from the former plant essentially in that it comprises two strong three-bowl mangles, eight drying cylinders, and the ageing chamber, containing 79 winches, is directly fed with a current of warm air by means of a fan in connection with a multitubular heater. All the winches are driven by spur wheels and the chamber is heated internally by means of a number of closed steam coils. This machine is capable of dealing with fabric at the rate of about 20 yards per minute but varies with the size of the chamber. About 20 h.p. is required to drive the whole of the components. The temperature of the ageing chamber does not usually exceed 60 to 70 degrees C. Sometimes two fabrics are dyed together. Another type of Aniline Black dyeing machine is shown in Fig. 105. This consists of two padding machines, a considerable number of drying cylinders and an ageing chamber containing two rows of horizontal rotating copper rollers. After passage through the ageing chamber, the dyed fabric is cooled by further passage over a few freely-rotating rollers. After ageing, the black shade thereby produced on fabric is rendered ungreenable by chroming. This may be effected in the jig shown in Fig. 106a and the fabric then washed in the range shown in Fig. 106a. Alternatively, after-chroming and washing may be effected continuously in one machine similar to that shown in Fig. 99. MACHINERY FOR MERCERISING CoTTON FABRICS Mercerisation of cotton fabrics is carried out for the purpose of increasing their lustre and affinity for dyestuffs. The process was discovered by Mercer in 1854, but the important part which tension plays in the process was not clearly recognised until pointed out by Lowe in 1875. Briefly the mercerisation of cotton fabric is effected by impregnating it with a solution of caustic soda of 50 to 60 degrees Tw., then subjecting the fabric to lateral tension so as to counteract the shrinkage which occurs and washing it free from caustic soda while under tension. Subsequently all traces of alkali are removed from the fabric by treating it with a dilute acid (sulphuric or hydrochloric acids) and the acid is then completely removed by washing with water. All these processes are carried out continuously by means of modern mercerising plant. It is important to remember that lustre is dependent on stretching. Fabric treated with caustic soda without tension does not gain lastre.” > Generally ithe tension pro- duced on the warp threads by drawing the: fabric through: tie mercerising machine a 4 NEN NG AIAAAAY AA AAAAAR ce, AA Wagaya PONS \ H 4 i B H } H H H H H H LH H H a? H H H Fic. 104.—AnitinE Buack Dyernc MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). ‘(O90 GNV NOLUON “UAWUVY ‘f HIG) OlMaVY GHA MOVIG-ANITINW ONIHSVAA ONV DNINOUHO-UGLAIY YO SALVUVadY “Q90T “OTH “P9OT “OIA “ZONVA} ONIHSVM “A399If ININOSH) (TS ; i © SSS || = . , ‘(OO GNVY NOLYON “AAWUV A ‘f UIQ) ANIHOVIL ONIAAGQ WOVIG ANITINV—'eOl ‘DI SK TCHIGK MS). G wou SSS SS iS SSI 103 104 TEXTILE MACHINERY is sufficient to counteract warp shrinkage; the tension necessary in the weft is about equal to that employed for pulling the shrunken fabric out to its original width. At one time, the washing liquors containing all the caustic soda employed in the process of mercerisation were discharged into the nearest drain and thereby wasted. To-day most mercerising plants are provided with arrangements whereby practically all the waste alkaline liquors or lyes are collected, concentrated, causticised and used again in the mercerising process. Mercerisation should be carried out with cold alkaline lyes. No markedly superior results appear to be obtained by cooling the mercerising liquor to about 0 degrees C., but its temperature is preferably maintained at about 10 to 20 degrees C. In this connection it must be remembered that by the action of caustic soda on cotton con- siderable heat is developed.* Barratt and Lewis (Journ. Text. Inst., 1922, 18, 17) found that when | gram of pure cotton was treated with caustic soda, heat was liberated as shown in the following table : Concentration of caustic soda. Heat liberated by 1 gram of cotton. 40° Tw. 25°9 calories Ti 314i 61a 33:0 ee Heat is also developed by the action of caustic soda on starch, and more heat is likely to be developed with sized cotton fabric than with bleached fabrics. On account of this development of heat it is advisable to employ a water-cooled container for the mercerising liquor. With these preliminary observations in mind, the design of the mercerising plant (Mather and Platt) shown in Figs. 107 and 109 will be easily appreciated. The plant divides itself naturally into three portions : (1) impregnation, (2) stretch- ing and removing by washing the greater part of the alkali, and (3) the final souring and washing. Impregnation is obtained by means of one or more mangles (see Fig. 108), each containing an intermediate indiarubber bowl and two outer cast iron bowls, both being driven so that slippage of the fabric may be avoided. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of compound levers and weights. The trough under each mangle for containing the mercerising liquor is made with a double jacket so that the lye may be cooled by means of ice-cold brine or merely cold water. In the trough are iron guiding rollers. As an assistance to penetration, the trough is sometimes fitted with a device which consists of a slotted iron tube, the width of the slot being fixed by means of internal sliding pistons. In its passage through the trough, the fabric is pressed upon the slot and at the same time the outer mercerising liquor is sucked through the fabric into the tube by means of a small vacuum pump attached to the latter, the lye being returned to the trough. In this manner the fabric is thoroughly penetrated by the lye, so that the arrangement allows fabric to be passed through the machine at a greater rate. After impregnation in the first mangle, the fabric passes over a number of freely- rotating sheet iron cylinders and then enters the second mangle, from which it passes to the stenter frame on which the operation of stretching to width is carried out. * « Cotton-Cellulose,” by A J. Hall. Ernest Benn, Ltd. 30s. net. “{ LLVIg GNV udHLVJN) OINaV gy WOE ANIHOV]L ONISTUMOUTW— LOT “OL armca , YaLSARONVA i mip Te ay yi AAA A 105 Fic. 108.—PappInc MAaNGLE FOR MERCERISING MacHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). 106 PA ot CS ay Stet - Er aS: E ms =e ei—— | TT : Sst | =) . = 6 |! ==4 ey, wi i at} a= - ew = =r ec) labile 107 RANGE FOR PIECE Goons ——_— 4a) MERCERISING MERCERISING MACHINE FOR PIECE Goops (MATHER AND PLATT). Fic. 109. 108 TEXTILE MACHINERY The run of fabric over the cylinders allows time for the caustic soda to act on the cotton fibres while under tension. The stenter frame is essentially a device for stretching fabric laterally (weft-wise) while it is travelling. The construction of a stenter frame will not be described in detail here, since in an improved and elaborate form it is largely used in finishing and is therefore fully described in Chapter IV (see page 181). Essentially, the machine consists of two side rails, J and K, each about 50 to 70 feet in length and each carrying races for an endless travelling chain of clips. The distance between the two side Fic. 110.—MeERcERISING CLip (MATHER AND PLATT). rails can be increased or diminished by means of screwed cross rods worked by power and also having hand wheels attached. As the fabric enters the stenter frame, the selvedges are securely gripped by the clips on either side rail, and by suitably inclining the first section of the rails the fabric may be pulled out to a desired amount. The remaining sections of the side rails being maintained parallel, the fabric passes through the remainder of the frame under a constant tension, afterwards passing through a mangle and then entering the souring and washing portion of the plant. Stenter clips for mercerising should be made of iron with nickel plates; brass is rapidly attacked by caustic soda. They should also be robust, since they must be capable of withstanding much tension. A typical clip is shown in Fig. 110. MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 109 The washing of the fabric during its passage through the stenter frame is secured thus :— Above the fabric are secured four spaced spurt pipes, H, capable of being swivelled so that they may accommodate themselves to the width of the fabric being mercerised, and by means of which water is sprayed on the travelling fabric. Under each spurt pipe and _ below the fabric is a separate concrete or iron tank, T. Also immediately underneath it and touching the fabric are four suction boxes G, which are a small distance behind the spurt pipes above the fabric. These suction boxes are made of cast iron and have an upper flat perforated surface; each suction box is in connection with a vacuum pump. Hot water delivered from washing box, W, to the spurt pipe nearest to the delivery end of the stenter frame is sprayed upon the fabric over the suction box below. The sprayed water is sucked into the box, thereby partially removing caustic soda from the fabric, and forming a weak alkaline lye, which is discharged into the tank underneath. Weak ) ™~, © Fig. 111.—‘‘ Marter’”’ Caustic LYE REcovERY APPARATUS (J. AND P. BEMBERG). lye from this first tank is then delivered by a small centrifugal pump to the second spurt pipe and after being sprayed and sucked through the fabric into the second suction box, the resulting stronger lye is discharged into the second tank underneath the fabric. Again the lye in this second tank is delivered to the third spurt pipe by means of a centrifugal pump, sprayed on the fabric, then sucked into the third suction box and discharged into the third tank underneath. These operations are repeated with the fourth spurt pipe and the now strong alkaline lye is discharged into the fourth tank. From the fourth tank, the strong lye is pumped to separate plant, in which it may be causticised and concentrated by well known methods and thus made suitable for re-use. With a washing system as described above, a 90% recovery of the caustic soda used is possible, and the strength of the recovered lye before concentration shouid not be less than 8 degrees Tw. The washing and souring portion of the plant is similar to the continuous dyeing machines already described (see page 92). It consists of a number of tanks built of wood, each tank being provided with upper and lower rows of freely rotating guiding *(UGDINNGG) OIUdV A UOL ANIHOVIA ONISIUBOAAI— SIL “YY 110 MACHINERY FOR DYEING AND MERCERISING 111 rollers, and a supply of hot or cold water. Small mangles are provided between each tank. The first tank contains hot water obtained from that sprayed on the fabric immediately after leaving the stenter frame and before passage through the squeezing mangle shown before W. Tank R contains dilute acid, V contains hot water and the last tank contains cold water. The travel of the fabric is controlled by the electric motor, Z, and A, B and C are pumps separately controlling the supply of liquor to the spurt pipes and the suction of the suction boxes. Fic. 113.—StretcHing APPARATUS FOR MERCERISING MACHINE (BENNIGER). A machine such as that described above requires 30-35 h.p. and is capable of mercerising up to 60 yards of fabric per minute. Those responsible for the design of mercerising stenters should remember that caustic soda is a very corrosive liquor which readily attacks the hands of workmen. For this reason all working parts of such machines likely to require attention or frequent repair should be arranged, as much as possible, out of contact with the mercerising liquor; attention to such parts while the machine is working is then possible. In some mercerising machines (Bemberg) the mercerising liquor is only partially removed from the fabric as it passes through the stenter frame, the bulk of the alkali 112 TEXTILE MACHINERY being recovered while the fabric passes through a closed chamber similar to that shown in Fig. 111. Such a recovery chamber is built up with cast iron plates and contains upper and lower rows of iron guiding rollers. Fabric passes through the chamber over and under the rollers (the upper rollers are driven) and finally leaves it through a squeezing mangle. Iron baffle plates fixed to the inclined bottom of the chamber retard the flow of a small current of water which serves to remove alkali from the fabric. The removal of alkali is effected more completely, however, by directing small jets of steam on the travelling fabric, the steam thereby thoroughly penetrating the fabric, condensing and thus removing the alkali which it contains. Mercerising Machine without Stenter Frame.—sSince the early days of mercerising fabrics, efforts have been made to avoid the use of stenter frames with the object of obtaining a more compact and easily adjusted machine. These efforts have not met with complete success, but they have resulted in the production of machines which are useful in special circumstances. Fig. 112 shows such a machine (Benniger). It consists of a padding mangle containing three cast iron bowls, two of which are covered with indiarubber, a set of expanding rollers and a caustic recovery and washing apparatus. The trough of the padding mangle may be lowered or raised as desired and the washing apparatus is of a similar type to that described above (see Fig. 111). The essential feature of the machine is concerned with the stretching of the fabric during mercerisation. The stretching device employed consists of a number of rotating curved bar expanders similar to those previously described (see page 53), but built up with cast iron (not brass or other metal attacked by caustic soda) grooved bobbins. These expanding rollers carried on ball bearings are closely geared together as shown in Fig. 113 and they serve to stretch the fabric passing between them to its full width. According to the system of alkali recovery used, the frame carrying the expanding rollers may be wholly or partly immersed in flowing water or the fabric between the rollers may be sprayed with washing water. With such a machine as that shown, it is possible to recover about 90% of the alkali used. The machine requires about 10 to 12 h.p. CHAPTER III MACHINERY FOR PRINTING Faprics of all materials may be printed, but the printing of cotton materials is carried out to a greater extent and is of much greater importance than is the printing of wool, linen and silk. Further, the machinery employed for printing cotton is essentially the same as that employed for other textile materials, so that it will only be necessary to deal here with cotton printing machinery and indicate any differences as they arise. Before printing, all fabrics require preparation. This preparation will, of course, depend on the material of which they are composed. Woollen fabrics will be cleansed by scouring, silk materials by soaping and cotton fabrics by kiering and bleaching. Much of the machinery employed for preparing fabrics for printing is therefore similar to that used in treating these materials before dyeing and finishing, and has been described in Chapter I. Before printing cotton fabrics, however, a few additional processes are necessary so that the fabric may be completely freed from motes and loose fibres and also so that its warp and weft yarns may be straightened ready for the reception of a printed design. These processes are carried out in moting, shearing, brushing, cutting and short stretching machines. PREPARING MACHINES Brushing Machines.—Fig. 114 shows a vertical brushing machine (Mather and Platt) for treating cotton fabrics before printing. Fig. 115 is a sectional view of the same machine. The machine essentially consists of a sheet iron chamber containing eight revolving brushing rollers arranged in two vertical sets of four each with an exhaust fan and batching rollers at the delivery end. Fabric entering the machine passes over tension rails and one or more guide rollers, upwards between the revolving brushes which remove loose impurities from both sides of the fabric and is then batched up outside the machine. . The brushes are similar to those shown in Fig. 116 and are bristled spirally. It is obvious that the efficiency of brushing is dependent on the pressure of the brushes against the fabric, and for this reason arrangements are provided by which this pressure may be varied. In Fig. 115 the four right-hand brushes are attached to a sliding frame, whose position can be varied laterally by rotation of the lower left-hand control wheel; rotation of the control wheel, to which is attached a vertical chain, operates four adjustable screw motions (upper and lower, on both sides of the machine) which force the brushes to or away from the fabric. Sheet iron dust guards are hinged over each brush, thereby preventing the dust removed by one brush from falling on to the brush beneath and also directing the dust to the dust boxes situated at the base of the machine, the latter being in com- munication with a small exhaust fan for removing the whole of the dust formed within the machine. Large doors provided in the side of the enclosure give easy access to the interior of the machine for purposes of cleaning and, when desired, any brush may be readily withdrawn through the side of the machine after first taking off the attached pulley and the cover fixing on the opposite end. The driving power is about 3 h.p. and the speed of the fabric through the machine about 80 to 100 yards per minute. Horizontal brushing machines are also made, but these are constructed on principles 8 113 ; 114 TEXTILE MACHINERY similar to those of the vertical machines. It will be recognised, however, that when fabric passes through a brushing machine in a horizontal direction a horizontal dust tray is required underneath the fabric and the upper set of brushes. Hence the pressure of the fabric against the brushes cannot be obtained by adjustment of the Fic. 114.—VeErticaL BRusHING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). upper and lower sets of brushes to or away from each other as in the vertical brushing machine. In horizontal machines, therefore, the positions of the brushes are fixed and their pressure on the fabric is obtained by adjustment of guide rails, which press against the fabric within the machine. Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine-—A more elaborate type of cleaning machine for cotton fabrics is the Cloth Beating, Brushing and Cleaning Machine MACHINERY FOR PRINTING Its (Mather and Platt) shown in Figs. 116 and 1164. Fabric entering the machine passes over a brake roller, A (Fig. 116a), by which the tension of the fabric is adjusted, being proportional to the frictional force exerted by the weighted leather belt shown in Fig. 116. The fabric then passes in contact with two revolving brushes, D and E, whereby it is brushed on one side, then over the beater, F, and thus beaten on the other side, and is then brushed by means of G and H and again beaten by K, disposed \ ' Deuvervy x ENTERING . fast ano Loose Driving Pucvceys. Foon Levit : ARC Te l ae EER NNN WAAAGAOAOAOAAOAOAOAOAOO Fig. 115.—SEectTion oF VERTICAL BRUSHING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). such that both sides of the fabric receive equal treatment. Subsequently the fabric is well brushed on alternate sides by means of brushes L and M, which press the fabric against small adjustable and adjacent iron rollers and the fabric then passes between two inclined mouthpieces, P and Q, from which issues a blast of air for the purpose of sweeping off all traces of dust from the fabric. The fabric is finally batched up outside the machine at R. The brushes D and E, G and H revolve in opposite directions and their pressure against the fabric is varied by adjustment of their bearings by means of the sliding end plates shown in Fig. 116. On the other hand, brushes L and M are fixed, their 116 TEXTILE MACHINERY pressure against the fabric being regulated by adjustment of the small adjacent iron rollers. ! Each of the beaters F and K comprises three light rods attached by means of leather straps to a central shaft. Rotation of the shaft causes the rods to fly out- wards and strike the full width of the fabric with a quick succession of light elastic blows, sufficient to dislodge the dust which it contains. Fie. 116.—Ciotre Bratinc, BRUSHING AND CLEANING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). The machine is enclosed in a sheet iron hood and the dust formed within is removed by means of a small exhaust fan in communication with outlet C and suction boxes Nand O. The blast of air for P and Q is supplied by the small blower shown in the bottom left-hand corner of Fig. 116. The driving power of the machine is about 5 h.p. and deals with fabric at the rate of about 80 yards per minute. The machine is suitable for treating both ‘(LLVIQd ANV UAHLV]{) ANIHOV[L DNINVAIQ ANV DNIHSAUG “ONILVAG HLOIQ FO NOMOAG—ngT] “pW TAN (LLVId GNV UHHIVI) GANIBOV] ONIYVAHS AALLNO-ynAOy— LTT “91y 118 a MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 119 bleached and grey fabrics, but for the latter it is usual to replace the four brushes D, E, G and H by an equal number of scrapers, the severity of treatment being thereby increased. In Fig. 116 plaiting down motion is shown as an alternative to batching-up. Four-cutter Shearing Machine.—Improvement of the surface of fabrics previous to printing is also effected by shearing or cutting off the nap and loose fibres. This is carried out by passing fabric over a number (2 to 6) of rotating cutters, the fabric being afterwards brushed. A four-cutter machine (Mather and ea is shown in Figs. 117 and 118. Cutters consist of steel rollers on which are spirally mounted a number (usually six) of steel cutting blades having ground edges. The faces of the blades are also milled after the fashion of a file so that they may seize fibres projecting from the fabric. LIVERY: BATCH ‘ a \ \ 9 i opal oes Vea Ty , ( e: AD ; aauaial ROX GOR KS. os oe Pee ae Pee? iNW7 H iT = a | re ANDO LOOSE — Sey DRIVING PULLEYS FOOT LEVER FOR RAISING \ ——— a omc A\\ CLOTH FROM CUTT LBA i Gio FLOOR LINE ¢—y - = 1 Ss TOTAL LENGTH OVERALL ABOUT 14'-0" WIDTH OF FACE OF CUTTERS = 40” TOTAL WIDTH OVERALL ABOUT 6-3" SIDE ELEVATION Fic. 118.—ConstTrRvucTION or FouR-cUTTER SHEARING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). The operation of the four-cutter machine is better seen by reference to a sectional view of a one-cutter machine shown in Fig. 119. 2 “phom Ress) = alah YJAITONVH aa SSE ' CJ a Huse UM II ATFIMNa SST D tu SSE) ° ———| JFHM Yds SSS 2 ——— NOINId YNAS INOE ,,% XOBHILYO HLIM JOIM,E WVIG,, 24 KAITING I'S ‘aid O'S Ge NOINId YNdS ea are) - & Wate Fi cata \ | INIT YOOTS NOINId ¥/1dS & “ye, ADLIA Al LZE —T : + \ 4. feet ——— , 9 792M YNdS feces Cha COU eT OWIO STIIHM TIAIG ‘DW TIFLS LSVD HILYE FAlYT OL AITING I'S'T'D CUT 9NOT 952 4YIAITOINVH TIIHM ANdsS IW? 4] & wid, Ath WNYAT HOLYE JIM ,% \ € ‘WYIO,052 SAITINd JSOOT FV LSV4 ptlat ‘WHI 21 TIFHMONVH ¥, oe (¥, MOdaY Be OF rea hee, —rl 125 ‘(OD GNV NOLUON “UAWUV “f AIG) ANIHOV]T ONIHOLAULY adIIQ AO UVAD IVILNAUAAIIG— FZ ‘DIA 126 MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 127 is similar to that employed on motor-cars, so that when G is rotated the rate of rotation of the sprocket wheel F is made slightly greater or less than the rate of rotation of N according to the direction of rotation of G. BRAKE LEVER->- Fic. 125.—ConstrRucTION OF DIFFERENTIAL GEAR FOR CLIP STRETCHING MACHINE (SiR J. Farmer, NORTON AND CO.). A third method for varying the speed of travel of a clip chain is shown in Figs. 124 and 125 and has the advantage that its action is instantaneous. In this device the clip chain wheel (sprocket wheel) is indirectly driven through rotation of the shaft H, A and B are loose pivoted spur wheels attached respectively to M and N and in © 128 TEXTILE MACHINERY mesh with spur wheel C, which in turn drives the sprocket wheel through the bevel gear Rand T. By asimple movement of the brake lever, the motion of either M or N may be arrested and this operates the worm gear R and T so that the speed of the sprocket wheel is accelerated or retarded. Fic. 126.—STENTER Ciip (MATHER AND PLATT). There are many types of clips, their design being dependent on their use for the stretching of heavy or fragile fabrics, but their general construction may be seen from Figs. 126 and 127. Each clip consists of a tongue, A, and a pawl, B, the tongue Fic. 127.—ConstTRUCTION OF STENTER CLIP (MATHER AND PLATT). being free to swing about a horizontal hinge-pin so as to lift the pawl clear of the bed-plate on which the fabric rests and which is slotted as shown in Fig. 126. As the clips pass around the sprocket wheels at each end of the chain races, the tongue of each clip is temporarily forced backwards by contact with a stationary projecting MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 129 steel bar fixed around each sprocket wheel, and is thereby lifted, thus allowing fabric to be fed into the clip and lie on the bed-plate between the double pawl and the two slots below. When receding from the sprocket wheel, the tongue falls, but is pre- vented from sinking into the slots underneath by the fabric as shown in the left hand Fic. 128.—AcTION oF A STENTER Cuip (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND Co.). of Fig. 127; the fabric therefore remains ungripped. However, since the side rails at the entering end of the stenter frame are divergent, the fabric gradually recedes from the clip and thus uncovers the slots, thereby allowing the tongue to fall and securely grip the fabric. In this manner it is only the selvedge of the fabric which Fic. 129.—STENTER Ciip (CLAY AND ATKINSON). is held by the clips. When the clips reach the delivery end of the stenter frame, the pivoted portion of the clip is again temporarily forced back and the fabric thus released. The operation of the clip is also clearly shown in Fig. 128. Clips are usually built of a malleable iron body fitted with a brass bed-plate, tongue and pawl. A clip must be well designed, for it can easily do much damage to fabric. 9 130 TEXTILE MACHINERY The grip of the clip on the fabric is determined by the design of the pawl and slot and also by the edge of the tongue, which may be tapered or wedge-shaped. If this grip is too keen, damage to the selvedge is certain to occur. These two types of tongue are shown in Figs. 129 and 130. In the clip shown in Fig. 129, the pressure Fic, 130.—STENTER CLip (CLAY AND ATKINSON). Fic. 131.—RIvETED STENTER CLIps (CLAY AND ATKINSON). of the tongue is exerted on only a thin line of the fabric, whereas in the clip shown in Fig. 130, the pressure is exerted over the larger area of the wedge. In forming the endless chains it is usual to rivet the clips together as shown in Fig. 131. Wear in these holes is minimised by lining them with steel bushes. Rotation of the rivets accompanied with corresponding excessive wear, is avoided by the use of wedge rivets MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 131 as shown in Figs. 129 and 131. It will be readily understood that since the chain races and clips require oil lubrication there is always a danger that oil stains may be formed on the fabric. For this reason the rivet shown in Fig. 132 is covered with a spring oil cap; oil is thus confined to the rivet. Preparing Ranges.—Before printing, fabric is frequently prepared or mordanted, and since it is desirable to do this in a continuous manner, the preparing range shown in Fig. 133 is generally used. This machine consists of a padding mangle and a set of horizontal drying cylinders. The fabric enters the machine by way of overhead tension rails and then through the padding mangle, over the curved bar expanders and is then dried on the cylinders and plaited down. The mangle is usually provided with two bowls, the upper one of wood or indiarubber and the lower one of brass, the pressure of the bowls being obtained by means of the compound levers and weights as shown. In Fig. 133 the wooden trough under the lower roller of the mangle is not shown; the trough is for the purpose of holding such liquor with which it is desired to impregnate the fabric. Since the speed of the drying cylinders is determined by the speed of the mangle, their drive is taken from the cross shaft of the mangle and further adjustment is obtained by means of cone pulleys. Another preparing range is partly shown in Fig. 134, and this consists of a stenter frame provided with hot air for drying (see page 181). The main features of this machine are similar to those of the Clip Stretching Frame already described (page 120). Fabric passes through the machine from left to right, is suitably impregnated in the mangle and then partially dried by passage over a few drying cylinders. These cylinders enable the machine to be driven at high speed, since they assist the drying of the selvedges, which are otherwise hable to pass through the stenter clips somewhat damp. Leaving the drying cylinders, the fabric passes over a weft straightening and compensating device, whose con- struction is better seen in Fig. 135, through the stenter frame, where it is dried by means of jets of hot air directed upon it from above and below and is then batched on a roller. The weft straightener essentially consists of a number of rollers whose relation to each other may be altered by means of the hand wheel shown in Fig. 135, so that they are either parallel or form a cone or pyramid, the apex of which may be at either side of the device. It is obvious that when fabric is passed at a constant speed around a conical roller one side of it will travel at a slower speed than the other, although the rate of travel of the fabric as a whole will be unaltered. The device therefore allows askew weft threads in the fabric to be straightened, it being merely necessary to adjust the position of the rollers so that they suitably diverge and thereby straighten the weft threads of the fabric before reaching the stenter. From what has been Fic. 132.—OtmL-PROTECTED STENTER Crip Rivet (Sir J. Farmer, NORTON AND Co.). *(LLVIg anv WHHLV IN) HONVY ONIUVdaYg— sé YA 132 MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 133 previously said, the straightening of the weft threads can be accomplished in the stenter frame itself, but it is obviously better to reduce the work of the stenter by this preliminary straightening. The compensating device essentially consists of the STENTER. Fie. 135.—Wert STRAIGHTENER (MATHER AND PLATT). lower roller in Fig. 134. This roller is free to slide in a vertical plane and it therefore falls or rises as the rate of travel of the fabric through the stenter is less or greater than its rate of travel over the drying cylinders. tte te ea al (LLVIG GNV YAHLV]) UTAWVHD ONIAUC, UY LOH—9ET “OL 134 MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 135 It is desirable to include a double batching apparatus with this machine, since it allows continuous working of the machine, it being unnecessary to stop when inserting another batch roller. The hot air necessary for drying is delivered by a fan to mouth- pieces which are placed above and below the fabric, the multitubular air-heater being placed on one side of the machine or above or below it. The mouthpieces are under control, so that the air delivered to the fabric may impinge on one or both sides of the fabric. Usually this machine is of the non-jigging type (see page 181). When the machine is fixed in position it is usually enclosed by a simple framing so that no hot air may be washed and the drying carried out as economically as possible. Another type of preparing range which is particularly useful for fabrics printed with Aniline Black and Para Red differs from that described above in that it contains no drying cylinders, the drying being effected by means of hot air. Such a machine is shown in Figs. 136 and 137, and consists of a sheet iron chamber, say 35 feet x 15 feet x 6 feet wide, built up on steel framing and within which is a number of steam chests and means for pro- ducing and circulating hot air. Fabric passes through the machine upwards and downwards, over and under a large number of freely rotating copper rollers, some of which are driven so as to assist the travel of the fabric. Hot air is provided by a fan and multitubular heater placed in the base of the chamber and is distributed by various mouthpieces through- out the forward end chamber. Vertical steam chests (see page 152) are placed at that end of the chamber where the fabric enters, the hot air being distributed at the other end where the fabric leaves the chamber. As the fabric passes between the steam chests and is exposed to the hot air, it is uniformly dried free from creases. Colour Mixing Pans.—Before describing printing machines, reference should here be made to Colour Mixing Pans, which are com- monly used for preparing the pastes used in printing. A range of colour mixing pans is shown in Fig. 138. Each pan is made of copper and is constructed with a double jacket; mechanical stirring gear driven ll UI} OH DOS SOOO IGAAE oars eaece meal a8 . H 3 a Je e Fic. 137.—Srction or Hor Air Drying CHAMBER (MATHER AND PLATT). 136 TEXTILE MACHINERY by spur wheels is also provided. By means of the double jacket, the contents of the pan may be heated by steam or cooled by means of cold water. The size of a pan is, of course, dependent on the user, but 200 gallons is considered a large capacity Fic. 138.—Cotour Mrxine Pans (MATHER AND PLATT). and suitable for the preparation of thickening pastes, whereas pans of 20 to 50 gallons are more frequently employed. Mechanical swivelling gear is generally provided with the larger sized pans. A useful colour mixing pan not mechanically agitated is shown in Fig. 139. This pan is lined with Vitralite and is thus unstainable and easily cleaned. oI is ee : . MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 137 Printinc MACHINES The operation of printing machines will be clearly seen from Fig. 140. P is a colour box containing the paste which is to be printed on the fabric passing around the pressure bowl, D. M is a roller or “‘ furnisher ’’ which transfers the paste to the engraved printing roller, E, which is positively driven and serves to rotate D by frictional contact and M through an intermediate spur wheel. In order that excess of colour paste may be removed from the surface of E, this printing roller is provided with a colour doctor, N, which is a sharp steel blade. Another doctor, K, the lint doctor, is also provided for the purpose of removing loose fibres picked up by the printing roller when in contact with the fabric. The cleaning doctor is the more important, since the clarity of the printed fabric is entirely dependent on the efficiency with which this doctor removes colour from the smooth parts of the printing roller and leaves the colour within the engraved design. Fie. 139.—Cotour Mixinc Pan Fic. 140.—CoNsTRUCTION OF A SINGLE-COLOUR (LONGCLOSE ENGINEERING CoO.). PRINTING MACHINE. The cleaning doctor is usually 2 to 3 inches wide and up to ;, inch thick, its length being dependent on the length of the printing roller. The edge bearing on the printing roller is bevelled sharply, and its pressure on this roller is adjusted by means of levers carrying adjustable weights. A cleaning doctor is also given a small traversing motion so as to make its wear even, this motion being obtained through a small eccentric drive. The lint doctor has no traverse motion and is usually made of brass. The pressure bowl, D, is usually of cast iron and is lapped with not more than a dozen thicknesses of a linen-wool union fabric, F. Further, the fabric C being printed is always supported by a blanket, A. Staining of the blanket is largely avoided by means of the back-grey, B. Printed fabric C, back-grey B and blanket A pass through the printing machine together, being directed to the pressure bowl by the freely-rotating drag roller, R. The various fabrics additional to the printed fabric are for the purpose of giving the printing surface elasticity. X, Y and Z are freely- rotating guide rollers. 138 TEXTILE MACHINERY Pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl D is obtained by means of springs or compound levers in much the same manner as in mangles, both types of Fig. 141.—ConstRUcTION OF A MULTI- COLOUR PRINTING MACHINE. ~~ ee, Sea nate 0 >) . « \ i pressure being shown in Fig. 149. Such a machine as is shown in Fig. 140 can be used for printing one colour. The arrange- ment of a multicolour printing machine is that shown in Fig. 141, lettered similarly to Fig. 140. Each colour requires a separate colour box com- plete with printing and furnishing rollers and the necessary doctors. In this case also, each print- ing roller is only engraved with portions of the printed design—those portions having the same colour. It therefore becomes necessary to provide arrangements whereby the printing rollers can be adjusted so that each printing roller is accurate and registers exactly with the whole design. For this purpose, the printing roller must be capable ; G ea a rua Gn ry Ai et ah a Si = bff, : Xe = Z A a H cAKA ora See e I = Fic. 142.—Nip ARRANGEMENT ON A PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). of lateral movement and also one or both ends of the roller must be capable of being raised or lowered. Further, the printing roller must be capable of independent rotation. MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 139 With these adjustments it becomes possible to make the printing rollers register their portion of the design accurately. The method by which these adjustments can be obtained may be explained by reference to Fig. 142, which shows the typical arrangement of nip fittings on a printing machine. In the upper fitting—an end view is shown—the pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl is obtained by means of a spring shown. C is a screw which allows one end of the printing roller to be raised or lowered and A is a box wheel by means of which the printing roller may be independently rotated. The construction of the box wheel is more clearly shown in Fig. 143. It is here seen that the spur wheel, 8S, which is engaged with the star wheel (the spur wheel which drives all the printing rollers of the machine) is not keyed directly to the shaft, M (mandrel), of the printing roller, but drives the printing roller indirectly through the = [A] i itt M2 Sectional View End View Fie. 143.—Box WHEEL FOR PRINTING ROLLER (MATHER AND PLATT). worm gearing, K. Under these conditions, although rotation of the printing roller always occurs when the spur wheel, 8, rotates, rotation of the printing roller quite independent of the rotation of the spur wheel is effected by rotation of the screw, T. It is thus possible to rotate the printing roller as desired while the spur wheel, 8, is stationary. Lateral movement of the printing roller across the pressure bowl is obtained by means of screw B (Fig. 142). The furnishing roller, colour box and doctors are carried on nip plates (one at each side of the machine) which are adjustable (see below). The lower sectional view shows the position of the colour box, furnishing roller and printing rollers. In this case, the pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl is obtained by means of the lever shown on the extreme right; this lever is con- nected by the lower hinged rod to the compound levers fitted in the sides of the machine and shown in Fig. 149. The upper doctor is the colour doctor and is shown in con- nection with a lever and chain for adjustment of pressure. The lower doctor near to 140 TEXTILE MACHINERY the pressure bowl is the lint doctor and its pressure on the printing roller is adjusted by means of the thumb screws shown. In the usual type of nip fittings, the furnishing roller, colour box, lint and colour doctors are carried by nip plates which are fastened to the bearing blocks for the mandrel of the printing roller and which also move towards or from the pressure bowl together with the printing roller. Under these conditions it is evident that the limited adjust- ments possible with the furnishing roller, colour box, etc., as described above, are not Colauur Dacfor Fic. 144.—CompounD SLIDES FOR PRINTING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). sufficient to accommodate printing rollers of varying diameter. Thus, when one printing roller is replaced by another of different diameter, the necessary re-arrangement of the furnishing roller, etc., involves fresh drilling of the nip plates. Recently, how- ever, improved nip fittings (Mather and Platt), usually referred to as “‘ compound slides,”’ have been devised and are shown in Fig. 144. Such fillings allow more adjust- ment of the furnishing rollers, etc., since these components are mounted on separate plates, which are adjustably mounted on the main nip rs plate; re-drilling of the nip plate is thus avoided. Printing Pallen Calico printers prefer levered nips (nip designates the pressure of the printing roller on the pressure bowl) Mandrel rather than springs. However, although levers and weights enable one to obtain a positive pressure, it is he 148 Suiocee ee found that levered nips cannot be applied generally to ROLLER (MaTHER AND PraT7). printing machines employing more than six printing rollers. Machines for printing in fourteen colours are in use and these are therefore provided with spring pressure. A printing roller consists of an engraved copper shell keyed on a steel shaft or mandrel as shown in Fig. 145. A machine for forcing a shell on a mandrel by hand power is shown in Fig. 146; machines driven by mechanical power are available. Having reviewed the principles governing the design of printing machines, we can now further see their construction by reference to a few illustrations of typical printing machines. Single-colour Printing Machine.—Fig. 147 shows a single-colour printing machine (Mather and Platt). The upper pressure bowl is carried by bearing blocks which are ‘(iaivid GNV UTHLV) ANIHOVI ONIONOY THUAGNVIN— OFT “OM i i 141 142 TEXTILE MACHINERY operated by the lifting screw shown in the top of the machine and by means of which it can be easily raised. The spur wheel on the right-hand side of the machine is keyed to the mandrel and drives the printing roller. The front upper doctor is the colour doctor and its traverse motion is obtained by means of a worm and wheel, The lint doctor is at the back of the printing roller. The pressure of the lint doctor is regulated by the small lever shown with weight attached. The sides of the machine contain levers with weights for pressing the pressure bowl against the printing roller (not the printing roller against the pressure bowl, as is usual in multi-colour printing machines). Since this type of machine is driven at high speed and a high pressure is maintained between the printing roller and pressure bowl, both of these are carried in roller bearings. Fic. 147.—SINGLE-coLOUR PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). Six-colour Printing Machine.—A six-colour machine for printing handkerchiefs is shown in Fig. 148. In this machine, it will be noticed that the two upper nips are obtained by means of springs, the other four nips by means of levered pressure, the levers and weights being shown in the sides of the machine. This machine also clearly shows the nip fittings for adjustment of the position of the printing roller, furnishing rollers and colour box. The pressure bowl is 3 feet in diameter and the nip fittings will accommodate printing rollers of 44 to 13 inches in diameter. The highest roller is a drag roller—not a printing roller—and its function is to bind the entering fabric against the pressure bowl ready for the first printing roller. A sectional view of this machine is also shown in Fig. 149. Eight-colour Printing Machine.—Fig. 150 is a diagrammatic view of an eight- colour handkerchief printing machine and clearly shows the disposition of the various parts towards the pressure bowl. In this machine, the six lower nips are obtained by means of levered pressure, the upper two being fitted with spring pressure. The right- hand top roller is a drag roller. The disposition of the levers in the sides of the MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 143 machine is typical of all printing machines. This particular machine has a cast iron pressure bowl of 66 inches diameter. Twelve-colour Printing Machine.—Another handkerchief printing machine, suitable for printing in twelve colours, is shown in Fig. 151. The pressure on all the printing rollers is obtained by means of steel springs. Owing to the large number of printing rollers, the pressure bowl is constructed very large—93 inches in diameter. At the Fic. 148.—Stx-cotour Printinc MacHIneE (MATHER AND PLATT). top of the machine are shown screws for lifting either end of the pressure bowl, but by providing a cross shaft both ends could be lifted simultaneously. From Fig. 152, which shows another side of the machine, the method of driving the printing rollers from a central spur or star wheel is indicated. Further, this illustration shows the method of driving the machine through a totally enclosed worm reduction gear. Generally, each printing machine should be driven by a separate steam engine or preferably by an electric motor. It is not satisfactory to drive from shafting. If an 144 TEXTILE MACHINERY electric motor is used, then this should preferably be a shunt wound direct current motor. Transmission of power to the printing machine is preferably accomplished through a worm reduction gear, since this largely eliminates noise and vibration. Further, a worm gearing gives a pure turning movement to the driven shaft such as is Worm reduction gears can be employed pro- not obtained by means of spur wheels. U | I if 1 | SS | Per 1 I ! 1 1 u oe Ee P| f---4- 1 1 { Diyey Nites eS eS Peer UE Fic. 149.—SEcTION OF SIxX-COLOUR PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). vided that the reduction is not excessive; where the reduction desired is great, then a combined worm and spur wheel reduction must be employed. Sample Printing Machine——For the printing of sample patterns it is desirable to have a separate machine, as interference in the output of a printing works may thus be avoided. Such a machine should be capable of printing patterns in several colours and yet be simple in construction. Fig. 153 shows a printing machine of this type. This MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 145 machine differs considerably from the usual printing machine, since the pressure bowl is driven and the printing roller, having no mandrel, rests on two pairs of freely-running rollers (one roller of each pair being shown immediately in front of the printing roller LLL Fic. 150.—Srction or ErcutT-coLtour HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). in Fig. 153). A small colour box with furnishing roller and a colour doctor are provided. In operation, fabric from the left-hand batch roller is threaded between the printing and pressure bowl and led back to the right-hand batch roller, the slackness in the fabric being taken up by the compensating rollers, which consist of rollers loosely pivoted at one end so that they can easily rise or fall. On starting the machine, the 10 Fic. 151.—TWeEtvE-coLourR PRINTING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). ‘(LLVIg aGNV UGHLVIA) ANIBOVIT ONILDNIYG WOAOTOO-TATAMT, WOM HAIWd NOWonday WaOM—'SgT “91 147 148 TEXTILE MACHINERY printing roller is raised by means of a cam until it comes in contact with the rotating pressure bowl. The printing roller then rotates and the fabric is printed. At the end of one revolution of the printing roller, the roller automatically lowers. The fabric S > 2 E * rs a ft x Fic. 153.—SAMPLE PRINTING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLaTT). is then drawn back by hand, any slackness being taken up by the compensator, and another printing roller (or shell) put in the machine. The colour in the colour box will also be replaced by another colour. After bringing the printing roller into exact register with the design, the second colour may then be printed as before. In this manner the printing of multicolour patterns can be rapidly carried out with a compara- MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 149 tively simple and adaptable machine. Usually a steam chest (see page 152) is fitted in front of the printed fabric so that the fabric may be rapidly dried. TO DRYING APPARATUS SS -- 7 a Ee aes === WN z SSSSSES SESS SSS an Se SSS SS SNS SSNS SNS SNS SS SS SSS SSS SSS SS SS San SOE 158 (LLVIg aNV UHHLV IA) ANTHOV]I ONIDOY HLIHdTASOUGA H— 'F9T “OLA SSS Q.°.kzgzgg gr SS OL ° Ss pyee4 JO e/els "IWIL INO LY HLOTO SO ee ea SOAVAOOZ NIVLNOD TTIM HFINVHD 2FLON | /_———— ee (002 -21),,0-,O% LNODY T1¥VYIAO HLONIT- ~-—- ~~ ~~~ ---=------ ----------------—_ >} Idld N@HAAS d - SOU Ee lt YIONITAD JAIVA af i ONIAT YFdd02 ONILYTILNIA’ I> Nae = = , / E 9NIMVTD OL FOIS | \ ' : FL/SAddO NO 400T | ¥ i | bs { (dl 1 | \ -301SNI onoT (00L: 90722 -— | to fa il ‘ i! FATVA ont VTILNIA ‘1 I SLSFIHD OL SASIA WWILS SIdIld WYILS dalvHosyrsd (LEVIq GNV UTHLV]Y) SANIHOV] DNIGDW wo Adiq ATddAg WVYALQ—'eg] ‘DIT adiy weazg JaUUT 159 160 TEXTILE MACHINERY of the printed effects. Thus much moisture is required in the development of indigo patterns. Generally, steaming chambers are built up of cast iron plates, or iron sheet mounted on steel framing, and contain upper and lower rows of rotating metal (usually copper) rollers. The fabric passes up and down, under and over the rollers, generally entering and leaving the chamber at the same mouthpiece. The heat of the chamber is main- tained by high pressure steam, which passes through serpentine coils usually placed in the bottom and top of the chamber. A number of steam chests may also be included in the chamber. Moisture and heat are also supplied by live steam discharged into the chamber through perforated copper pipes. As it is most important that no drops of water arising from the condensed steam should be thrown upon the fabric, the steam pipes are constructed as shown in Fig. 163. In this construction, inner and outer concentric perforated pipes are used, the perforations of the inner pipe being on the side opposite to those in the outer one. As a further precaution against water drops, the steam supply should be passed through it Nea Ia, a steam dryer (see page 314) before entrance Seca Be ie to the chamber. Water drops arising from steam condensing on the roof of the chamber must also be guarded against— usually by including steam coils in the roof fry oe Heated so as to maintain it at a high temperature. i Pann Hydrosulphite Ageing Machine.—Fig. B.....Copper swivel pipe J prepared with steam 164 shows a modern type of steaming and water connections. apparatus suitable for treating fabrics printed with hydrosulphite pastes and also for developing fabrics padded for Aniline 7 Black. This machine is built of cast iron plates and contains most of the accessories Fic. 165.—MovutTHPIECE OF HyDROSULPHITE noted above. The difficulty of water- AGEING MACHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). p : ; 2 dropping is overcome by including steam- heated steam chests in the roof of the chamber, condensation of steam thereby being prevented. The rollers are drawn copper tubes, the upper row being driven and the lower row free to rotate. An important feature of the machine is the mouthpiece through which the fabric enters and leaves the machine. This mouthpiece is con- structed as shown in Fig. 165. It consists of a steam-heated hollow copper oval pipe which swivels between the heated (by means of steam pipes, A) mouthpiece, which can thus be almost completely closed while allowing the entrance and exit of the fabric. The inclination of the oval pipe is determined by the travelling fabric and a small weighted lever as shown. The chamber is provided with an outside drying cylinder as shown in Fig. 164 with the object of partially drying the entering fabric. Perforated steam pipes are fitted in both top and bottom of the chamber. The bearings of the rollers are fitted outside the machine such that they allow the rollers to be withdrawn and replaced from outside the chamber. The ventilation of the chamber also deserves consideration. In the ventilating system shown, the chamber is connected to the outside atmosphere through a large diameter sheet iron pipe fitted with butterfly valves. When the top valve is V4? Z Z y Eee a eee ee ee i | Ca er ae i aoe Radiating Pipe — i RG ier, _————— H eS a agi G a= nH ut | Le | i | : | \ acl = adam 7 - q sinnaneneaonansnll TT a cH STE geet Tt RT a ee 161 Steam Pipe Fic. 166.—Looprp Fasric AGEING MacHIne (MaTHER AND PLAt77). 162 TEXTILE MACHINERY closed, air freely enters the chamber; when both valves are closed, no air enters the chamber and it soon becomes almost air-free and is then suitable for steaming hydro- sulphite (reducing) discharges. The total length of fabric in the chamber (22 x 10 x 6 feet) shown is about 200 yards. The machine requires about 3 h.p. Looped Fabric Ageing Chamber.—Another type of steaming and ageing machine (see page 69) is shown in Fig. 166, and it differs from that described above in that the fabric in its passage through the chamber does not pass over a number of rotating rollers but is carried on rods which travel along the top of the machine. When the fabric enters the machine, it forms a loop which reaches to within a short distance from the bottom of the chamber and is then caught by a rod which has advanced into its correct position, being carried thereto by a travelling chain. The fabric then forms another loop, and this in turn is caught by another rod which has advanced into position. As the rods travel along the top of the machine, the chamber becomes filled with loops of fabric as shown in Fig. 166. When the rods reach the end of their travel along the top of the machine, they drop down and are carried downwards and along the bottom of the chamber by the travelling chain until they again meet the entering fabric and once more carry it forward in loops. Meanwhile, with the dropping of the rods the fully steamed fabric passes out of a mouthpiece in the roof of the chamber. In machines of this type the design must allow the fabric to be carried without jerks or varying tension, and it is desirable that the rods can be easily removed for purposes of cleaning. Steaming Cottage.—Fig. 167 shows a steaming cottage (Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co.) which is employed for steaming fabrics whose printed designs are better developed at high temperatures. The cottage itself is made of steel plates, a cavity being formed in the top and to which steam is admitted at a pressure higher than that employed for steaming—water drops due to condensed steam are thus avoided. The cottage is heated by high pressure steam circulating through closed steam coils, and the necessary moisture is obtained by injection of live steam. The entrance to the cottage is closed by a cast iron or steel door, which is raised or lowered by means of chains and balance weights. The fabric is not led directly into the cottage but is first suspended in loops from rollers fixed on a movable trolley. When the trolley is filled, it is pushed into the cottage, the door lowered and secured and steaming effected at any desired ~ temperature and over any period of time. It is thus evident that a steaming cottage does not allow fabrics to be treated continuously. Roller markings on the fabric are often prevented by interleaving it with grey fabric. The rollers supporting the fabric may be rotated occasionally during the steaming by means of the handle shown protruding from the machine. Washing, Fixing, Chloring and Dunging Machines.—After printing and steaming, whereby most of the chemical reactions which occur in the printed parts are completed, further treatment of the fabric is necessary. Thus, fabrics printed with Aniline Black effects are passed through a solution of bichromate for the purpose of making this colour ungreenable, effects obtained by means of basic colours must be fixed by passage of the fabric through a bath containing tartar emetic, fabrics containing white effects are passed through a weak solution of a bleaching liquor in order to make the whites quite clear, printed fabrics which are to be overdyed are generally passed through a dunging solution in order to free the fabric from impurities which would hinder its free absorption of a dye liquor, and in most instances the printed fabric is finally washed and ‘f aig) ADVLLOO ‘(Oop GNV NOLUON SaHWav A “f N3LSaHNVH 2 NOLYON Yaw S3W vr uis SNINVALQG—'/ OT “DIT 163 ee ee ONTAVOS ANV PNINOTHD “ONIXI A ‘ONIHSVM 49 NOLLONULSNOO—*P89T “ply *(LLVId ONV MGHLVIN) ZONVY (O) | ; patted 7 Atari f hate = 2 S) ey i | wien | rH Te Spree tbeaxebeds’s mSbressbrdssbeany y H seeSicdea ame RIED 0 KN SHS Goo bo 0 Sen a —-— a nc OmoMn ue aoa eee eS ee SESee hy ae | i ar a Oe Go 8 Rea | re =" Ve \ 3 : Cad Zap “Ne cao i) a) (=) Fe) er \ aU LL ye el \y \ a) Qa203 =i =o Gates \ ry Bee one @ Cee @ cacm@) 5 | l) \ \ i (GLVIg GNV UHHLVIN) TONVE ONTa¥YOg GNV DNIHOTHD “ONTXIY ‘oNTHSV M— S9T “SLA 164 MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 165 soaped before drying and finishing. These various treatments may be effected when the fabric is in open width or rope form, treatment in open width yielding more uniform results, while treatment in rope form can be carried out more rapidly. Fic. 169.—BEATERS FOR WASHING MACHINES (MATHER AND PLATT). When fabric in open width must be subjected to several treatments, it is advan- tageous to carry these out consecutively in one machine. A machine which is largely used for simultaneously fixing (say basic colours with tartar emetic), clearing Fic. 170.—BEaTERS FoR WASHING Macuines (Sir J. Farmer, NoRTON AND Co.). whites with a bleaching liquor, soaping and washing is shown in Figs. 168, 1684. The machine consists of a number of cast iron tanks constructed so as to form a range, mangle rollers, generally of brass and rubber, being placed between each two tanks. In each tank are upper and lower rows of freely rotating metal rollers, over and under which the fabric travels in its passage through the machine. In passing from one tank to the next, the fabric is given a moderate nip. The penetration of the fabric is considerably assisted by the use of beaters, which are fitted as shown in Fig. 169. These -beaters consist of a number (usually about four) of polished brass rods mounted on a shaft as shown, and while being driven at high speed they dash the liquor in the tank against and into the fabric. Alternatively, the beaters may consist of freely-swivelling buckets as shown in Fig. 170 and used in the machine shown in Fig. 171. ae 2 — | é SEB aH || aT (A 2) a cn Pree HT | | Neate | aT ape LE Co in 4 se HITT Elk -MALTING — — Fusing - —STEAm Box— — Fixing Fig. 171.—WasuHina, Fixina, CHLORING AND Martina MacHINE WITH TIME WHEEL (Sir J. Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). as -—T MACHINERY FOR PRINTING 167 In using the above described machine, it is usual to separate the different treatments by one or perhaps two tanks containing water, so that one treating liquor is not carried by the fabric into the succeeding treating liquor. The last tank usually contains flowing water, and on emerging from this the fabric is mangled and dried over drying cylinders. Dunging ranges are constructed in much the same manner as the continuous washing and treating machine, except that only one nip is employed—the one attached to the first washing tank—it being undesirable to press loose impurities into the fabric. Machines for dyeing, washing and soaping printed fabrics in rope form are similar to those previously described (see page 33). A machine specially adapted for the after-treatment of printed fabrics is shown in Fig. 171, and in it fabrics may be fixed, washed, malted, soaped and again washed. That portion which allows a malt treatment is of particular interest. The removal of starch materials from fabrics is usually effected after treatment with a malt extract whereby the starch is liquefied, but since the liquefaction occupies several minutes it is not generally possible to carry out this process in a continuous manner. The machine shown in Fig. 171 is provided with a time wheel radially divided into compartments, and these are closed by means of an endless blanket. In operating the machine, the time wheel rotates slowly, while a definite amount of the fabric passing through the machine is delivered from an overhead winch into each compartment of the wheel successively. The wheel rotates within a tank containing a malt liquor so that the fabric is exposed to its action for a considerable and suitable period of time, although the rate of travel of the fabric through the whole machine is relatively fast. After making almost one revolution each compartment in turn emerges from the blanket and the fabric is then drawn forward through the remaining washing tanks. CHAPTER IV FINISHING MACHINERY AFTER bleaching, dyeing or printing, fabrics usually have an unpleasing appearance due to irregular shrinkage and extension associated with displacement of the warp and weft threads. Most fabrics have therefore to pass through numerous finishing processes whereby these defects are corrected and the appearance of the fabric is made as attrac- tive as possible. Further, for the purpose of giving fabrics a solid appearance, necessary weight and a desired handle, they are generally impregnated with solutions or pastes containing suitable ingredients. All these operations are effected by means of various types of finishing machinery, among which are some excellent examples of engineering skill. STRETCHING AND CONDITIONING MACHINES Belt Stretching Machine.—Generally all fabrics contract in width during bleaching, dyeing and printing, so that one part of the finishing process consists of stretching the fabric to any desired width. Stenter frames are particularly suitable for this purpose, but as an auxiliary machine the so-called Belt Stretching Machine is very useful. A modern type of belt stretching machine (Edmeston) is shown in Fig. 172 and its con- struction may be better understood from the smaller Fig. 173. The machine comprises five large stretching pulleys, A and C, mounted on a driven shafting. The outer pulleys, C, adjustably inclined to each other, are faced with indiarubber and may be separated by any desired distance to accommodate the width of the fabric passing through the machine. Endless leather or indiarubber bands passing around small pulleys press tightly against the faces of C. B are smaller pulley wheels which may be moved to or from A. When the machine is in operation, fabric is delivered on the side where distance between C and C is narrow and then passes under the pulley wheels, the selvedges being gripped between the travelling belts and the lined faces of C and C. When the fabric has reached the front of the machine, its width corresponds to the widest distance between C and C and has therefore been stretched, so that it is then batched up on a roller. The wheels A are for the purpose of supporting the fabric, and when assistance for the stretching of the middle portion of the fabric is required, the wheels B are adjusted so that they also press against the fabric, but on its other face. It will be observed that the selvedges of fabric being gripped by the travelling belt are not subjected to stretching, as is the remainder of the fabric and, further, owing to the pressure upon them they tend to become hardened. This defect is overcome in the machine shown by passing the fabric, as it leaves the stretching pulleys, between two pairs of corrugated wheels whose position on the lateral shafts is adjustable so that their pressure on the selvedges softens these. Such a belt stretching machine is capable of dealing with 120 yards of fabric per minute, but it is usual to work at lower speeds. Generally, cotton fabric is calendered before stretching. Short Conditioning and Stentering Machines.—The stretching of dry cotton fants does not yield very permanent results, better results being obtained by stretching fabric when under the combined influence of heat and moisture. Fig. 174 shows a short Conditioning Stenter suitable for stretching fabrics under such conditions ; it is usually not more than 50 feet long. This machine is similar in construction to the Clip Stretch- ing machine previously described (see page 120), being fitted with clip chains, one of which, by means of a differential motion, may be adjusted to travel temporarily at a slower or faster rate than the other, thereby allowing straightening of the weft threads to be effected. Underneath the entering end are placed perforated steam pipes 168 ‘(NOG GNV NOLSaWaW ‘W) SNIHOV] DNIHOLAULY LIAG—ZLT ‘YI 169 (LLVIg GNV UAHLV]) ANIHOVIT DNIUALNALG ANY DNINOILIGNODN—'FLI “DIT ~ 5 oe ; = : | E . eS \ ee eae 18 U U BT onpyzina AMFAITI! GC PS Hy ke ata da ae —— = =n Hite cs = = 3= ee - “ | eA dh IY / YILNILS DIP} ONILYSNAAWOO ||| 7 ie 3 y37710¥ ITINIS |||] APY, YILIV Td} | Is } YAILYIH Ay INGNLILTOW Tdid YIY TANSOTIN bbe So NMA L Sener JTONYN @ ASNWHXF ONIAYE \ al BS MTA _ SMIONITAD ONIANT (ILVIQ ONV UFHLV]N) SOIMAV] ATTMA-MOVG AOL AONVY ONIAUC INV ONTHOUVIS—“C8T “Old CLL LL kt eee ors SSD FINISHING MACHINERY 181 Jig Stentering Range.—For the rapid and satisfactory finishing of cotton fabrics, a well-designed jig stenter is necessary and such a one (Mather and Platt) is shown in Fig. 183. In general principles, the construction of this machine is similar to those stenter frames previously described (see pages 120, 168). In passing through the apparatus as shown, the fabric is first filled in the two-bowl starch mangle shown on the extreme left, and then is partially dried by passage over about six drying cylinders. Subsequently it enters the stenter frame via a compensator for correction of slight differences in the speed of the stenter and the starch mangle (see page 133) and is then dried by hot air (see page 151) oy Rey a impinging on the fabric from above and below, the weft ~ being simultaneously straightened by running one of the clip chains temporarily as desirable at a faster speed than the | | other and the fabric brought to the desired width by altering the distance between the chain races. On leaving the stenter, the fabric is batched on a roller or plaited on the extreme right of the machine, it being preferable to provide double tid batching arrangements so that stoppage of the machine for 4 1894 —Jrecine Motion. attaching the various pieces of fabric to fresh rollers may be avoided. Also, when the stenter is run at high speed, there is a possibility that the selvedges may not be completely dry on leaving the clips; this may be corrected by adding the two drying cylinders shown. An essential feature of the machine, however, is its jigging motion; this has been unnecessary in those stenters previously described. The jig motion is independent of weft straightening and is obtained by moving the rails carrying the clip chains back- wards and forwards while maintaining their parallelism to each other. This motion is Differen tial G Sprocket 14 (Operated by Whee/ Handwhee! ) Sprocket Whee! ( Driving Clip Chains ) Main Drive Fic. 185.—ConstTRUCTION OF JIG STENTER. obtained by means of an eccentric rod connected at one end to the pivoted cross bar carrying the clip chain rails and at the other to an eccentric drive from an electric motor. The relative movement of the two clip chain races thus produced is shown in Fig. 184. By alteration of the leverage of the jig eccentric rod, the limits of the jig motion may be controlled and the period of jigging by alteration of the speed of the motor. Provision is also made in the end stocks of the stenter to accommodate the sliding of the side frames. One arrangement for providing a stenter with jig motion and for allowing one clip 182 TEXTILE MACHINERY chain to travel faster than the other is best seen in Fig. 185, which shows some of the essential features of the delivery end of the jig stenter described above. The sprocket wheels which draw the clip chains along the side rails of the machine are driven by the cross shaft, D, which is geared to the main driving shaft, A. The shaft D is supported by arms, H, such that the combination can swivel in a horizontal plane about the vertical shaft, B, bevel wheels, K and C, being unaffected by this rota- tion ; the jig motion of the side rails is thus possible without affecting the travel of the clip chains. Further, sprocket wheel E is driven by D through bevel gear wheels, O and M, whereas sprocket wheel F is driven by N indirectly through the differential gearing above it. This differential gear closely resembles that commonly employed for motor cars, so that when G is rotated the rate of rotation of sprocket wheel F is made slightly greater or less than the rate of rotation of N. Thus when G is being rotated, the rate of travel of the clip chain driven by sprocket F is different from that of the clip chain directly driven by M through sprocket wheel E and it becomes possible to straighten the weft threads in the travelling fabric. DUE TO DESIGN OF SPHERICAL BOSS AND HOUSING THE DRIVING BEVELS MA/NTA/N A UNIFORM SPEED EVEN WHEN JIGGING. MAIN DRIVING SPUR WHEEL RECEIVING MOTION FROM CROSS SHAFT AND TRANSMITTING SAME THROUGH SPHERICAL BOSS TOJIG6ING SHAFT. ~ NEES fe 55 ee NEES ats ais | pe yi | Fic. 186.—DrivEe to Hor Arr Strentrer (Sir J. FarmeR, NORTON AND CoO.). The whole machine is, of course, housed in a wood and glass structure, so that economy of heat may be ensured. Such a jig stenter as that described above is usually not less than 90 feet, but is often 120 feet in length. It is capable of dealing with up to 100 yards of fabric per minute (depending, of course, on its quality). The hot air supply is maintained by means of a fan and multitubular heater, the latter being of the type shown in Fig. 137 (see page 287). The heater is about 15 feet long and 5 feet in diameter, is fitted with some 350 tubes each of 2 inches in external diameter, thereby having a total heating surface of 2400 square feet and capable of supplying 20,000 cubic feet of hot air per minute. The power required to drive the fan is about 25 h.p. A jig stenter 90 feet in length contains about 1000 stenter clips. The jig motion is about 14 feet and requires 5 to 6 h.p. For dealing with very wide fabrics the jig motion is proportionally increased. The stenter itself requires 20 h.p. Although the machine described above is satisfactory in every respect, it is seen by reference to Fig. 185 that the driving motion applied to the clip chains through bevel wheels C and K during jigging may not be uniform owing to the fact that K is not in the centre of shaft D. This objection is successfully overcome in the Hot Air Stenter made by Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co. by the method shown in Fig. 186. The shaft, D, is ‘ITINALY Uy LOY FO NOWWoy SNTOOIC— LST ‘PML ie Ze ss “ee ee | « : a salir NE ae : UBLSIHINVA aetoo °@ NOLYON YANGVT SANVE UIs : a in A a Ejacal cal sEadcn fm aN GTR AAT NaS BEAAA bela badILR DSA CCRUERIRR FRR | ee TR oc Sa SSA A Ye aa a ae a Me DM ee I, > 183 ‘(OO GNV NOLHON ‘aaWwuvy ‘¢ arg) SNIHOVI DNIHSINIW YAWIVI—'sst “oq 184 FINISHING MACHINERY 185 driven by a central spur wheel, A, and the rate of rotation of D is thus independent of the jigging motion; this arrangement, of course, necessitates the provision of the spherical housing, C. At the same time, by the arrangement of the spherical boss and housing shown at B the rate of rotation of the bevel wheels driving the clip chains is maintained uniform and independent of the speed of jigging. The method for obtaining a jigging motion in the above-described machine is shown in Fig. 187. The jig motion is transmitted through the upright pivoted lever shown in connection with a small eccentric drive and its limits may be easily determined by the position of the connecting link. Blanket Drying and Finishing Machines.—Light qualities of silk fabric are not usually finished in stenter machines, since in such treatment they would be liable to damage. It is more usual to pad, stretch and dry such fabrics in the Palmer type of Fic. 189.—Sizk Fasric FINIsHING (PALMER) MAacHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). machine shown in Figs. 188, 189 and 190. Such a machine consists of an impregnating mangle, one or more drying cylinders, an expander or type of belt stretcher and a large drying cylinder provided with a woollen blanket. In one type of this machine (Swindells Engineering Co.), Figs. 191 and 192, the stretching device consists of a short stenter. In machines of this type, which really comprise three separate machines, arrangements are necessary so that the rate of travel of the fabric being treated is uniform throughout the whole machine; otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric may occasionally be subjected to an excessive warp strain. For this reason, the separate machines are driven through friction discs as shown in Figs. 189 and 190, or fabric compensating devices are employed; in some instances a combination of these arrangements is provided. Referring to Fig. 190, it is seen that fabric batched on roller D is led through a three-bowl padding machine, E (the pressure on the bowls is regulated by the lever and weights, C) and is partially dried on cylinder F. Subsequently the fabric passes ‘(O09 DNINTANIONG STIAGNIMG) ANTHOV]L (YAWIVg) ONIHSINIY O1WaVY WIIG 10 NOILONULSNOO— 061 “PA sulyoe;w Suiysiuly qaxue|g ssajpuq dapuedx] vaw|ey ajSuep) SuiqeuSeudwy ee _= * ~ sy SS eee SL) \_ a1ugey ig FIOYUE/T SSA/PUT — 186 FINISHING MACHINERY 187 through a compensator which merely consists of a freely rotating roller, A, free to move in a vertical slot and tending to move upwards by reason of the pull exerted by weight B, and is then stretched in the Palmer (belt) expander. The fabric then passes around the large drying cylinder, H, being pressed to the surface of the cylinder by a thick woollen U oe iE NS ea 1 Dy oe eae 3 LY [Es ee Lf, y ane) if a [| j NIG Carl // Fire RY I market. —.—- J {} : a + ye | 1 ae oe ish / pene | \ \ en | | "hoo Le (cas) se se ee Oe a ey Oa (fy \ yf | Zot On ff A te eat / i : \sere 1 ih Zz Al / TO) \ heise E- ows oJ IRS Hi i * | \ \ ; ioe : He | |= NS 2 A 1B Fic. 191.—Bianket Dryinc MACHINE WITH SHORT STENTER (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). blanket, J, and the fabric thereby dried is finally batched up on a roller, or if desired it may be plaited down as shown in Fig. 191. The large drying cylinder is usually constructed of tinned sheet iron and is steam heated and rotates freely; the cylinder Fie. 192.—BLanket DryING MACHINE WITH SHORT STENTER (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CoO.). is rotated by its contact with the travelling endless blanket. In some instances the drying cylinder is positively driven as shown in Fig. 191. During its contact with the damp fabric the woollen fabric also becomes damp, and in the course of its travel it is therefore led over the steam-heated drying cylinder, K. In working this machine, the blanket sometimes becomes askew, and for the 188 TEXTILE MACHINERY correction of this the blanket passes over adjustable rollers somewhat similar to those of the weft straightening device described (page 133) in connection with stenters. Blanket drying machines are also employed in the finishing of knitted fabric and knitted tubular fabric (see page 299). They are particularly suitable for the finishing of fragile fabrics or materials not suitable for withstanding tensile strains. CALENDERS Calenders are employed for the purpose of giving any desired density, compactness, handle or lustre to cotton fabrics, and they are similar in several respects to starch mangles constructed of metal and non-metallic bowls maintained under pressure and which may rotate at the same or different speeds in relation to each other. The metal bowls differ from those used in starch mangles in so far as they are made of iron or steel and are hollow, so that they can be heated by means of gas or steam or even hot oil. Side Frame Bearing Block Plan Bow! Shaft Split Bearing Block ; Frame Elevation Fic. 193.—ENcLosED SIDE FRAME Fic. 194 —OrEn SripE FRAME FOR CALENDERS. FOR CALENDERS. The non-metallic bowls are made of compressed paper or cotton (see page 201). There are various types of calenders, including swissing, chasing, glazing, embossing and schreiner calenders. These types differ particularly in respect of the number and character of the bowls employed. Swissing calenders are built up of bowls driven at the same speed, and in passing through this type of calender, fabric is compressed so that it has a smooth compact appearance but acquires only a moderate lustre. In glazing calenders, the bowls rotate at different speeds in respect to each other, and the friction thereby produced gives the fabric a high lustre. Embossing and schreiner calenders use engraved steel bowls and thus impart special lustre effects to fabrics. The pressure on the bowls in calenders is usually obtained by means of compound levers and weights or by ‘“‘ dead-set ”’; but in the case of schreiner calenders where the pressure is exceptionally high—1 to 2 tons per square inch—and also in the case of calenders for jute materials, the pressure is obtained by hydraulic means. Side frames and driving wheels must be of robust design and strength to withstand the heavy strains imposed on such machines. Moreover, owing to the large wear on the non- FINISHING MACHINERY 189 metallic bowls, it is frequently necessary to remove these for repair or replacement, and the design of the calender must allow this to be done easily. In general, two types of side frames are used—open and closed frames—and their structure can be readily compared by reference to Figs. 193 and 194. ! t f ~ SA AUN appa Sts Sains Fig. 195.—THREE-BOWL FRICTION AND FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). Fig. 193 shows a side frame of the enclosed type, the shafts of three bowls being included. The lower bowl is carried in a three-piece bearing (or maybe in a V-bearing similar to that shown above the top bowl), the intermediate bowls are maintained in position by side liners and the upper bowl is pressed downwards by means of the inverted V-bearing. The frame A contains a loose cheek extending from B to D and secured by bolts. When it is necessary to remove the bowls, the loose cheek is first 190 TEXTILE MACHINERY removed and the bowls can then be removed with the assistance of a chain and pulley blocks. This type of side frame is clearly shown in Fig. 195. Fig. 194 shows a frame of the open type. The bearings fit into the channel-shaped side frame. When it is necessary to remove a bowl the bolts are withdrawn and the Low . eal y ! y Fic. 196.—THREE-BOWL LiGHT FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). split bearing may be pulled apart and the bowl released. This type of side frame is clearly shown in Fig. 197. The bowls of calenders are made of chilled cast iron (polished), compressed cotton or paper. In the case of schreiner and embossing calenders, the metal bowl is engraved ~~ al FINISHING MACHINERY 191 and is therefore made of steel instead of cast iron. Chilled cast iron is suitable for the metal bowls of ordinary calenders, since its surface can be well polished. Friction Calenders.—A few types of calenders may now be described briefly. Fig. 195 shows a three-bowl friction and finishing calender, with closed side frames. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by means of weights and compound levers or by dead set if the dead set pins are inserted. The upper chilled iron bowl is hollow and adapted to be heated by means of gas or steam. The centre bowl is of compressed cotton and the lower one of polished cast iron. The upper and lower bowls are geared together by means of gear wheels shown, the drive being initially transmitted to the upper bowl. In the machine shown, the gearing is such that the upper bowl rotates faster than the lower one, and the intermediate bowl will therefore rotate at some intermediate speed. Fabric passing through the machine will therefore be subjected to friction and will receive a high gloss. With such a machine it is customary to provide additional gear wheels so that the relative rates of rotation of the bowls can be varied. Further, by removing the friction gear wheels, leaving the upper bowl to be driven by lower bowls by friction contact, the machine may be used as an ordinary swissing calender. Three-bowl Swissing Calender.—Fig. 196 shows a calender for swissing, that is, subjecting cotton fabrics to pressure and heat but without friction. It consists of a central hollow chilled iron bowl, the surface being well polished, positively driven by the spur wheel shown. Upper and lower bowls made of compressed paper or cotton are driven by frictional contact with the iron bowl, which is heated internally by means of gas or steam. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by weights and compound levers or by dead set by screwing down the hand screws shown at the top of the machine after insertion of the dead set pins. The two calenders just described may be considered as containing the essential features of a large number of types of calenders which may contain many bowls. The object of providing calenders with a number of bowls is that by thus increasing the number of nips an increased effect on the fabric may be obtained in one passage through the machine; it also allows a greater variety of effects to be obtained. Machines containing a larger number of bowls also allow fabric to be finished at an increased rate. Six-bowl Calender.—The machine shown in Fig. 197 consists of an iron bottom bowl and five upper cotton bowls. It is used for swissing and chasing and gives a thready and linen-like effect to cotton fabrics, an effect which is similar to that produced by the beetling machines described later (see page 203). Efficient operation of this machine is obtained by providing the bearings of the top and bottom bowls with forced feed lubrication. Open side frames are employed with this machine. Seven-bowl Finishing and Chasing Calender.—Fig. 198 shows a seven-bowl finishing calender with open side frames. The arrangement of bowls may be varied but it comprises a lower hollow cast iron bowl arranged for heating, then two steam heated well polished chilled iron bowls, above which are four cotton or paper bowls. The arrangement of the bowl bearings with open side frames as described on page 190 is clearly shown. These bearings may be of the ring oiling type or supplied with roller bearings. The drive is through a disc friction clutch which allows the machine to be run at a slow speed for purposes of threading up with the fabric. By means of this machine, ordinary finishing and chasing (two thicknesses of the fabric pass through the nips simultaneously) may be conveniently carried out. It is also possible to introduce friction gearing into SO ateh oS. MITATION BEETLE FINisH (Sir J. FAanmER, NoRTON AND Co.). 192 Fig. 197.—S1rx-BowL CALENDER FOR I SSSESESERE TEST Bo se 3 Fic. 198.—SEVEN-BOWL FINISHING AND CHASING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). 13 193 194 TEXTILE MACHINERY this machine and thus make it suitable for the production of highly glazed fabrics. The power required for this machine is about 50 h.p. without friction. Methods for threading a seven-bowl calender such as that described above are shown in Fig. 199. In the machine shown in Fig. 198 the arrangement of the bowls is in the following order: (bottom) hard cast iron, cotton, chilled cast iron, cotton, cotton, chilled cast iron and cotton (top). Ten-bowl Calender.—Fig. 200 shows a ten-bowl finishing and chasing calender, and this represents about the normal limit in size of these machines. It is of the closed frame type and is provided with a lower cast iron bowl, above which are two steam- or gas-heated chilled iron bowls and seven cotton bowls, but in no case is it usual for two metal bowls to work in contact with each other. Pressure on the bowls is obtained as in previous machines except that pressure on the lower five bowls may be separately adjusted. These calenders are so high that it becomes necessary to adopt means for working the dead set screw handle by a device on floor level, and this is here accomplished by means of the handle wheel which operates the top screw through chain wheels * SwizzINg” “CHASING” “FRICTIONING, Fic. 199.—THREADINGS OF FABRIC IN SEVEN-BOWL CALENDER (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND OO.). and worm gearing. Batching and plaiting devices are shown fitted to this machine. The bearings may be of the roller type or the usual V-block with side liners; ring oiled bearings may also be fitted. It is obvious that the less friction in the bearings the less is the power required to drive the calender. About 60 h.p. is required to drive this ten-bowl calender and a further 20 to 25 h.p. if friction gearing is added. Five-bowl Rack-geared Calender.—For the finishing of jute fabrics it is frequently necessary to employ calenders capable of exerting a very heavy pressure, and a calender of this type is shown in Fig. 201. Pressure on the bowls is obtained through strong forged steel square threaded adjusting screws to the top bowl by means of massive wrought iron levers and a steel machine-cut rack and pinion actuated by a pair of weight multiplication pulleys. Independent adjustment of pressure may be obtained through the top screws shown fitted with hand wheels. In the above machine, the arrangement of bowls is as follows: (bottom) close- grained cast iron, paper, close-grained cast iron heated by steam, paper and cast iron. Siuk-finshing Calender—A calender suitable for finishing silk fabrics without friction and with a moderate pressure is shown in Fig. 202. It consists of two com- pressed woollen bowls and a middle highly polished steel or chilled iron bowl heated by steam or gas. All three bowls are driven positively. The bearings are of the ring oiling type and are totally enclosed so that oil stains on the fabric are prevented. i alii an TEN-BoWL FINISHING CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). Fie. 200. 195 Oe ee Aah a a ee Ld - ipa’ 1 niiaeg a - “4 ee ‘OI ‘(09 GNV NOIYON ‘aaWUVy ‘f UIG) UMGNTIVO agUVaD-MOVY TMOg-aAT—TOZ “D a 196 ‘(OO GNV NOLYON ‘TaHWUV |, “f WIG) UMANATIVO ONIHSINIY WIIS—'Z0S ‘V1 cm he ] 197 198 TEXTILE MACHINERY Pressure on the bowls is obtained through compound levers and weights. Silk fabric treated in such a machine acquires a highly lustrous appearance. Schreiner Calenders.—Cotton fabrics are passed through these calenders for the purpose of conferring on them a very high degree of lustre and, as previously described (see page 188), this is produced by the impression on the fabric of a number of lines which cross the weft thread at a small angle. Usually the lines are so fine as to number 200 to 400 per linear inch and the metal (steel) bowl of the schreiner calender must be Fic. 203.—SINGLE-NIP SCHREINER CALENDER (MATHER AND PLATT). engraved accordingly. The effects produced are largely determined by the number and nature of the engraved lines and the pressure used, the condition (moistness) of the fabric also playing a definite part. The engraved bowl is usually heated by means of gas. A schreiner calender usually consists of an engraved steel heated bowl and a cotton bowl rotating together under very high pressure. The pressure on each bearing may exceed 50 tons. In order to obtain this high pressure, the bearings of the lower cotton or paper bowl are supported by the rams of two hydraulic cylinders situated FINISHING MACHINERY 199 one in each side frame of the machine and in connection with an accumulator. Special attention must be paid to the bearings, since under the heavy pressure these tend to become hot. Perhaps, however, the construction and essential points of schreiner calender design may be most easily explained by reference to Fig. 203, which shows a successful modern type made by Mather and Platt. In this machine the upper hollow engraved steel bowl is driven by the large spur wheel seen on the extreme right. The lower bowl is driven by frictional contact with the metal bowl when fabric is passing through the machine. It will be readily understood, however, that owing to the heavy pressure on the cotton bowl it wears comparatively rapidly and must be frequently taken out and “ skimmed ”’ in a lathe till again true; its diameter is thus continually reduced. When no fabric is present, the two bowls must be separated by a short distance and preferably both be rotating, since the heat from the metal bowl tends to char and thereby spoil the cotton bowl. Under these conditions, it is therefore necessary to drive the cotton bowl from the metal bowl through a slipping clutch, and the arrangements for this are shown separ- ately in Fig. 204. A is a spur wheel keyed to the shaft of the steel bowl and engaging in wheel B on an independent shaft on which is also keyed a chain wheel, K, which operates the chain wheel of the slipping clutch, C. C also rotates chain wheel D, which is keyed to the shaft of the lower cotton bowl. The slipping clutch depends on the friction between a cast iron disc and a surface faced with Ferodo and is always op i¢4 oF Cotton maintained in gear by means of a compres- Bow! sion spring. Slipping Clutch It will therefore be readily understood Fie. 204.—Drivine ARRANGEMENT FOR BowLs : : OF SCHREINER CALENDER (MATHER AND PLaTT). that when the steel bowl is rotating and not in contact with the cotton bowl, the latter must also be rotating at approximately the same speed and that when the bowls are brought into contact, the cotton bowl quickly takes up the same speed as the steel bowl, being allowed to do so by the slipping clutch. This arrangement has the advantage that whenever the two bowls are brought together for any purpose, they are rotating at approximately the same speed and there is no sudden starting shock as would be the case were the rotating steel bowl to be brought in contact with a stationary cotton bowl. The raising of the lower cotton bowl to make contact with the steel bowl is effected by means of the hydraulic rams shown under the bearings of the cotton bowl. These hydraulic cylinders are in connection with a small hydraulic pump and an accumulator shown in a similar machine (Fig. 206) made by Sir J. Farmer, Norton & Co., and are con- trolled by the small lever near the driving wheel. By means of the lever, the pressure in the hydraulic cylinders may be immediately reduced or restored, the lower bowl being thereby lowered or raised respectively. This control is necessary so that the bowls may be separated at the moment when pastings or sewings in the fabric approach the bowls. The rams in the machine here described are 6 inches in diameter and are pressed upwards by a force of about 2 tons per square inch. A pressure gauge is fitted in front of the machine for the convenience of the operative. Shatt of Metal Bow! 200 TEXTILE MACHINERY When new, the cotton bowl has a very slight camber in respect of the steel bow], but as wear occurs this camber is lost. Instead of restoring the camber by skimming, the bowl is slightly skewed about the central Bow! Shaft point of its horizontal axis and this gives it Sliding Block camber relative to the steel bowl. For this purpose the bearing blocks of the cotton bowl are C eR ae made in two parts as shown in Fig. 205. Upper xed part of part A slides over lower part B by an amount nie at indicated by the two scales and allowed by the screw C. This skewing device also allows special Fam F we| Hur aulic finishing effects to be obtained. As stated previously, the tendency is for calender bearings to become very hot. In the machine here described, this difficulty is avoided by having totally enclosed bearings for the engraved roller which are water-cooled and supplied with forced feed oil lubrication. In this manner, a large saving of wear and driving power is effected. Cylinder Fic. 205.—ARRANGEMENT FOR SKEWING BowLs ON SCHREINER CALENDER. Fic. 206.—SINGLE-NIP SCHREINER CALENDER (Sir J. FARMER, NORTON AND CO.). The machine is fitted with the usual batching rollers and tension rails. Further, steel hooked sliding rails as shown are provided for the purpose of assisting the removal of the steel bowl for re-engraving, and a jib is also added for assisting the removal of the driving wheel of the steel bowl. FINISHING MACHINERY 201 Double Schreiner Calender.—Double schreiner calenders comprise a steel bowl between two cotton bowls, their construction being on the same principles as the single schreiner calenders. They allow two fabrics to be treated simultaneously, one between the upper cotton bowl and the middle steel bowl, and the other between the lower cotton bowl and the middle steel bowl. There should be no friction between the bowls of a schreiner calender except when the engraved lines are impressed on the fabric in a direction parallel to the warp threads. Stee/ End Cotton or Paper Plate Steel Locking Pieces Section of Pressed Bowl Fic. 207.—SEcTION oF Sorr Bown FOR CALENDERS (MATHER AND PLATT), In this exceptional case, friction is employed for the purpose of producing the highly lustrous so-called spun-glass finish. Soft Bowls for Calenders.—Sott bowls such as are employed in swissing, friction and schreiner calenders are made from cotton or paper, since these materials give, in practice, the best results as regards resistance to heat and friction and they also allow suitable degrees of elasticity. The manner in which a cotton or paper bowl is built up is shown in Fig. 207, which Fic. 208.—Sorr Bown ror CAaALENDERS (MATHER AND PLATT). shows the section of a bowl as manufactured by Mather and Platt. A central high tension steel centre or shaft forms the basis of the bowl and on this is first placed one steel end plate and then layers of circular paper sheets or carefully cleansed Egyptian cotton. The other end plate is then added and the bowl subjected to very high pressure to consolidate the cotton or paper and more of this material is added if required. The steel end plates are then fixed by means of the steel locking pieces and the surface of the paper or cotton is made true by skimming in a lathe until it has the appearance of a finished bowl as shown in Fig. 208. Frequently a slight camber is given to the finished bowl. Accuracy in the diameter of a bowl along its length is ensured by treating the bowl in a grinding machine. ‘(OO GNV NOLYUON ‘aaWwa Viaw f MIG) YAAGNATVY ONISSOAWH —"606 ‘SIA mus 983 202 FINISHING MACHINERY 203 Embossing Calenders.—These are similar in construction to schreiner calenders, the steel bowls being engraved with patterns. An embossing calender is shown in Fig. 209. Beetling Machines.—In beetling, cotton or linen fabric is wound on rollers to the extent of many thicknesses and is then subjected to a succession of blows from falling wooden or metal hammers. During the operation, the roller slowly rotates and is also subject to a traversing motion so that all parts of the fabric are evenly pounded. The effect of the process is to give the fabric a characteristic thready linen-like appearance, while the fabric regains width lost in bleaching and dyeing operations. WW wale F y K\ - a | TOIVOUETULUV AULA = eke ime Fic. 210.—LANCASHIRE BEETLING MACHINE (Sir J. Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). Two classes of beetling machines may be recognised: those in which the hammers are lifted and then allowed to fall by force of gravity and those in which the hammers are independent of gravity but deliver their blow by reason of being attached to a cam. Fig. 210 shows a Lancashire type of beetling machine. The machine comprises two lower cast iron cylinders, side by side, which rotate while subject to a traversing motion, and about 40 hardwood fallers which periodically fall by gravity, their return upward motion being produced by the wiper cylinder shown in front of them. The lower cylinders are about 14 feet long and will hold three or four batches of fabric side by side, according to width. While fabric is being beetled on one cylinder, the fabric which has already been beetled on the other is unwound and the cylinder re-wound with 204 TEXTILE MACHINERY fresh fabric ready for beetling; economy of time is thus effected. The operation of beetling may take anything from 4 to several hours. Some beetling machines, also working with gravity fallers, are provided with a flat table instead of iron cylinders, and the fabric is beetled while plaited down in laps. Fic. 211.—Spring BEETLING MAcHINE (MATHER AND PLATT). Another machine having spring fallers instead of wooden ones and which are worked by cams is shown in Fig. 211. This machine consists of three strong iron horizontal cylinders arranged in the form of a triangle and carried on two end plates, which may be rotated so that any one cylinder may be brought immediately under the beetle hammers and the batch of fabric wound on it subjected to the action of FINISHING MACHINERY 205 the hammers, while fabric may be wound on or unwound from the other cylinders. The rotation of the cylinders is effected by mechanical power. Further, during the beetling, the cylinder concerned is slowly rotated and subjected to a traverse motion. The machine shown contains about 28 hammers. The construction of the hammers is shown more clearly in Fig. 212. ran fa NN DAVUVOUNULONGD, QUNURUN‘ODCRDRERADDOGGAOVONOOGEORENGON GOO Emm) TTT) ip CII — mmm vevove vnuguncvaguonavicauvenn aensnusiieasccenvaneareet neem Z ec DISCHARGE OF MOIST AIR ROG TO ATMOSPHERE Fic. 245.—Air CURRENTS THROUGH TUNNEL DryING MACHINE (TOMLINSONS). the machine in the direction shown by the arrows. The average heating surface of each unit of gilled pipes is 200 square feet. The fans are situated either on a high or a low level, according as an upward or down- ward circulation of air through the yarn in the tunnel is desired, and in Fig. 245 the t GURL ADO GAUGODUNOOLODOO LAO GOROORROR OND NOROIOICED, CHIT TTT TTT CTT TTT q) COTTA) CTT TT TTT TTT Tn TT TTT aT / Re CUT) s| As | CTT TTT TAT) CTT | bx COT TTT TTT TTT 8 TTT TT os TT <4) CITT 5 COT TTT, Z) EEUU UNONUANGOONDNONOUAOOONIOCOUOURDOUNODOIOONOOIE® TTT TT TTT nny) eres i = hears ' ‘ “ parts Ed: EA wi NZS Cxtome Fic. 246.—SEctTIoN oF TUNNEL DRyING MACHINE Pee NERO CITT TT TTT TTT aT Ci i TTD direction of circulation through the heaters is shown when the fans are in the lower position. On the whole, therefore, it is evident the progress of air through the tunnel is spirally upwards or downwards, counter to the progress of the yarn, being periodically heated as it passes through the heating units. The speed of the air through the machine is low, owing to its spiral course, but its speed through the heaters and the material is relatively high, and such conditions are favourable to efficiency. 234 TEXTILE MACHINERY Passage of the yarn through the tunnel may be obtained mechanically or otherwise. Thus, tops, cops and the like are placed on trays accommodated on a carriage running on guide rails, the carriages being pushed by hand through the tunnel; in this case the circulation of air through the material is shown as in Figs. 246 and 247, the fans being on the high level. Yarns in skein form are suspended from sticks and placed in a similar carriage (each carriage will hold about 320 lb. of yarn) as shown in Fig. 243, but it is often preferable to utilise a modified drying machine as shown in Fig. 248 which is equipped with endless conveying chains driven by sprocket wheels, FP BP SS SE SE BE ES Pa OLE I PF ELL SE O_o ——— a 4 aetes Reape) en Pa 64 Gece aa oe | es” ee, vere. [se soaene ae | eg | 5 ae eee |, —. a SS STS eS | | l \ Hi ; we, ONS See he ia Pe Bh Seana eae Bet | xorg — fuaereccoule rN ne Ae sere Say | ORO PEAS ARSE IO A SOA SS SAD See Bet. Toft fe peau ME MCREGART CS Se IE FS OS PAS Ee —= pet |: S257 ANS, Te LED SR LATS, ra | ee a Ay i : vb. Yo to Ry say ara IY pay TTS Pe aes tesa ge ic STH BACK VIEW SHEWING LIFTING AND AUTOMATIC STOP MOTIONS. ieee ee 4 TSE ON 2S eae Fic. 337.—Fo._pEp Fasric DyEING MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). and loose pulleys shown. The usual arrangements are provided for heating the dye liquor with live steam. In operation, the fabrics, sewn end to end so as to form endless chains of about 60 yards in length, are threaded over the winch and con- tinuously drawn out of and into the dye liquor by the action of the rotating winch. In many machines the winch is circular, but the elliptical winch in the machine shown is advantageous, since it gives a plaiting motion to the fabric during its fall into the dye liquor. It is usual to provide such a machine with a peg rail in front of the winch, so that the endless chains of fabric may be maintained separate and prevented from tangling. In some machines, a device is added to the peg rail, so that if entangle- ment does occur and a strain is produced on the fabric the drive to the winch is automatically cut off and damage to the fabric thereby avoided. Another machine acting on similar principles is shown in Fig. 336, but this machine is constructed from perfectly stainless metal and therefore does not suffer from the many disadvantages of wooden machines. SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 297 Both the above machines are, of course, quite satisfactory for scouring and bleaching knitted goods before dyeing. Folded Fabric Dyeing Machine —A machine of somewhat unusual construction but very useful for certain classes of woven and knitted textile material, particularly those which are fragile or which cannot be subjected to strain, is shown in Fig. 337. Its general construction is very similar to that of the skein dyeing machine shown in Se cas Fic. 338.—Printing MACHINE FOR HosrtERY (MELLOR, BROMLEY AND CoO.). Fig. 266 (page 249). In this case, however, the knitted or woven fabric to be dyed is arranged to hang in folds from horizontal rods as shown at E. In operation, the fabric is lowered into the dye liquor contained in the vat underneath and the dye liquor then continuously circulated through the material by means of a pump. After dyeing, the fabric is raised out of the dye liquor, the latter run off and, if necessary, the vat filled with water and the fabric again lowered and washed. The machine is very useful, since it allows fabric to be dyed and treated with the minimum of handling and without subjection to strains likely to produce damage. 298 TEXTILE MACHINERY Printing Machine for Small Hosiery Goods——Although attention has been given to the machinery for printing all classes of fabrics in Chapter III, it will be convenient to describe a small printing machine suitable for printing single colour stripes or patterns on stockings and similar small hosiery goods. The machine is shown in Fig. 338, and consists essentially of a vertical printing plate (shown in the centre of the machine below three colour rollers) and an inclined plate (shown to the left of the machine opposite to the printing plate) on which the hosiery goods are secured. The printing plate may contain any suitable pattern in relief. Colour is supplied to the top roller and during the automatic working of the machine is transferred by frictional contact to the bottom roller, which periodically rolls over the surface of the vertical printing plate, thereby making it ready for printing. As soon as the roller has returned to its Fic. 339.—HorizontaL DryER FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FaBric (MANDEL, McIver Co., U.S.A.). upper position the plate holding the hosiery advances towards the printing plate and becomes vertical. Immediately afterwards it presses against the printing plate so that the hosiery becomes printed and then returns to its former nearly horizontal position ready for the removal of the printed hosiery and its replacement by other hosiery. All the above operations are automatically effected and the machine allows designs to be printed evenly and rapidly. : Drying Machines——Loose knitted goods are dried in brattice machines (see page 286). Long lengths of tubular fabric are generally dried while hung in loops from horizontal poles within hot air chambers, the looping being carried out by hand labour or by machinery as in the looped cloth drying machine previously described (see page 69). Another method for drying tubular fabric is shown in Fig. 339. It consists of a horizontal pipe attached to a blower fan which is in direct communica- tion with a large gas burner. The tubular fabric is threaded on the horizontal pipe as shown in Fig. 339, and is then drawn upwards over an internal cylindrical spreader such as is shown in Fig. 340 (a view of a vertical machine) and there rolled. During SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 299 its passage to the rolling apparatus, hot air (produced by the burning coal gas) is blown through the interstices of the fabric, and it is thus rapidly dried. The horizontal or vertical pipe is insulated so that it does not scorch the fabric upon it, the air delivered by the fan being at 200 to 400 degrees F. The apparatus is very compact and the fabric dried by means of it has a lofty condition. Finishing Machines.—Small hosiery goods are finished by methods of stretching or pressing while hot and moist. Machines for this purpose may consist of polished metal forms (internally heated) such as are used for stockings, or steam-heated cavity plates capable of being pressed together by hydraulic or dead-set pressure, or of an endless blanket passing around steam heated cylinders such that the knitted goods pass through the machine while being pressed between two layers of heated blanket. At the present time, the finishing of artificial silk knitted tubular fabric is of considerable importance, and a number of machines have been devised or adapted for this purpose. In nearly all cases, the process of finishing consists of suitably conditioning or damping knitted fabric and then subjecting it to the combined action of heat and pressure while being stretched to its desired width. One type of finishing machine is shown in Figs. 341 and 343. Machines of this type consist of two polished hollow metal bowls about 9 inches in diameter heated internally with steam. Usually both bowls are posi- tively driven at the same speed, so that fabric passing between them is not subject to friction. In front of the bowls is a slotted pipe or other similar device by means of which a mist of steam may be blown upwards into the fabric passing over it and forward between the bowls. Stretching of tubular fabric is not an easy matter and is effected by various methods. In one method, a wooden or polished metal (aluminium) frame as shown in Fie. 340.—VeERtTIcAL DRYER FOR KNITTED TuBuLAR Fasric (MAanpeLt, McIver Co., U.S.A.). Fig. 342 is placed inside the fabric and is allowed to float before the bowls of the finishing machine as shown in Fig. 341, being prevented from going forward between the rollers 300 TEXTILE MACHINERY by the rubber stops also shown. The width of the finished fabric is set by the width of the frame, or biscuit as it is generally called, and for each different width a separate biscuit is required. In another method, the fabric passes over a frame having diverging ~ Fic. 341.—Finisoinc MacuInE ror Knirrep TuBULAR FaBric (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CO.). arms (also fitted with anti-friction freely rotating wheels) as shown in the machine in Fig. 348 (page 305); the diverging arms are capable of adjustment to any angle and therefore allow adjustment to suit any desired width of fabric. Travel of t| Fabric Biscu/t Fic. 342.—Biscuir ror TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC. In operating the above machine, knitted tubular fabric is damped by steam (free from drops of water) and stretched to width as it enters the machine and is lustred and permanently set to width by passage between the heated polished bowls. On emerging from the bowls the fabric is batched up on a roller which rests lightly on the a ee. SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 301 upper bowl. The finish produced on the fabric is determined by the pressure and temperature of the bowls. It is therefore essential that the pressure between the rollers should be capable of adjustment. In the machine shown in Fig. 341 the pressure may be obtained by spring pressure or dead set pressure or by lever and weights. SNEYDEENGHECOES Fic. 343.—Finisninc MAcHINE ror KnirTeD TUBULAR FaBric (SNEYD ENGINEERING Co.). It is often desirable to allow conditioned or damped fabric to lie for some hours in order that the moisture may be uniformly distributed and absorbed by the fabric, so that in some instances fabric is passed before finishing through a padding mangle such as that shown in Figs. 344 and 345. This machine comprises three wooden bowls, the lowest bowl rotating in a trough containing water or any suitable finishing solution. Pressure between the bowls is regulated by spring pressure or lever and weight. Usually the upper two bowls are wrapped with cotton or other fabric and 302 TEXTILE MACHINERY this becomes moistened with the water in the trough by reason of the frictional contact between the bowls. As knitted fabric passes between the two upper bowls it becomes moistened and it is then immediately batched up on a loose, freely rotating roller shown resting on the upper bowl in Fig. 344. The construction of the machine is cree mene tinea Lo eee eee sono Sehnert ear meeaS RS PRESSURE BY SPRING PRESSURE BY LEVER & WEIGHT by SJ HANDLE FOR RAISING ec & LOWERING TROUGH, Fic. 345.—Construction or Two-Bowt PappING MACHINE FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FABRIC (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING CoO.). indicated in Fig. 345, where an arrangement is shown by which the trough may be raised or lowered when desired. This type of machine is simple in construction but very useful and reliable. Two-bed Steam Hosiery Press—The finishing machines described above have the advantage that they are continuous in their action and thus allow a large output. SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 303 Some finishers, however, prefer intermittent finishing machines, particularly for small hosiery goods. In Fig. 346 is shown a machine of this type and consisting of two steam-heated cast iron plates or chests capable of being pressed together; knitted material to be finished is placed between the plates. Steam at 20 to 30 lb. pressure is supplied to the plates through the spring pipes shown on the left of the machine and the pressure on the plates is obtained by swinging round the weighted upper horizontal arm and thereby screwing down the plates. When the machine is used for fabric, the plates may be swung round through 90 degrees, so that the greatest length of fabric may be treated at one time. In finishing small hosiery such as stockings, it is usual Fic. 346.—Two-Bep STEAM Press For Hosiery (8S. PEGG AND Son). to place them on shaped wood plates and press these between the hot plates for one or two minutes. In finishing lengths of knitted fabrics in this type of machine it is of course necessary to advance the fabric intermittently through the machine. The design of such plate press machines must ensure that a uniform pressure is obtained over the whole area of the plates and the latter must be strengthened so that they do not warp. The limits of motion of the plates are adjustable by means of stops, and the upward rise of the upper plate is assisted by compression springs. Three-bed presses are also employed and these allow a double output of finished material in machines occupying no more ground space than a two-bed press. They are very similar in construction to the two-bed press described above. Blanket Finishing Machines.—Artificial silk knitted tubular fabric may also be 304 TEXTILE MACHINERY finished by passage through machines in which it is pressed by a travelling blanket against a steam-heated polished metal drum, and such a machine is shown in Fig. 347. This machine is similar in construction to that previously described (page 185), and the blanket and drum may be both driven, or the drum may be driven by the travelling blanket. Tubular fabric may be conditioned before entering the machine either by means of a separate padding machine shown in Fig. 344 (page 302) or a perforated or slotted steam pipe placed immediately under the fabric entering the machine. The width of the fabric is determined by use of a suitable biscuit or other stretching device (page 300). Another type of blanket finishing machine or calender is shown in Fig. 348, which in principle is similar to that described above, except that the fabric passes between Fic. 347.—BLANKET FINISHING MACHINE FOR KNITTED TUBULAR FABRIC (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). small steam-heated bowls. From Fig. 348 it will be seen that an adjustable stretcher is employed and is of such a type that “ bowing”’ of the whole of the knitted fabric is prevented. It will be realised that when knitted fabric is stretched by means of the biscuit shown in Fig. 342 the friction of that portion of the fabric in contact with the edges of the biscuit somewhat retards its passage forward and this leads to undesirable distortion of the fabric or what is commonly known as “ bowing.” In the machine shown in Fig. 348 friction is reduced by the freely rotating wheels attached to the diverging sides of the stretcher and also by the inclined plates in the central portion of the stretcher. This stretcher has an additional rack and pinion adjustment so that its width may be slightly altered when covered with fabric. Raising Machines for Hosiery—Hosiery goods of cotton and wool are frequently raised or given a “nap” so that they may appear to be soft and wool-like. For i i ee SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS | 305 this purpose several types of machines may be used, but Figs. 349 and 350 illustrate two useful types. The machine shown in Fig. 349 is a small brushing machine which is suitable for small hosiery goods. It consists of a rotating frame carrying divergent rows of freely rotating teazles or wire bristles. In operation, the hosiery goods are merely held for a few moments against the rotating teazles and the fibres of the goods thereby brushed up and a nap raised. Fic. 348.—PEGSON STEAM-HEATED CALENDER FOR KnirTTeD Fasric (S. PEGG anp Son). The fleecing machine shown in Fig. 350 is more suitable for dealing with fabric. It essentially consists of a feeding roller in contact with a roller covered with wire carding but rotating at a different speed ; fabric passing between them is thus subjected to a brushing action. The nap or fleece produced is determined by the relative motion of the feeding and fleecing rollers, and provision is therefore made for driving the feed roller at various speeds. The machine shown treats only one side of the material, but duplex machines are made by which knitted fabric may be raised on both sides during one passage through the machine. Knitted Fabric Inspection Machine.—Although the dyeing of artificial silk knitted 20 306 TEXTILE MACHINERY tubular and plain fabric may appear to be a comparatively simple process, yet, owing to the possibility of uneven grades of silk being present in the same fabric and the Fic. 349.—SmMaLt BrusHING MAcHINE wiTtH TEAZLES (S. PEGG AND Soy). Fic. 350.—SINGLE RoLLeR FLEECING MACHINE (8. PEGG snp Son). great affinity of artificial silks for dyestuffs, faulty dyeing is comparatively frequent when carried out by inexperienced dyers. It is therefore necessary to make use’ of SCOURING, DYEING, AND FINISHING KNITTED GOODS 307 an inspection machine such as that shown in Fig. 351, which may be used for both plain and tubular fabrics. This machine comprises a batch roller, B, or a tray, G, for fabric entering the machine, tension rollers, C, the inspection table, E, a draw roller, Fig. 351.—Ciotra INspEcTION MACHINE (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). A, and a batching up roller, F. Fabric is drawn upwards over the inspection table and on roller F by reason of frictional contact between rollers A and F. In the case of tubular fabric, a biscuit is placed within the fabric so that it rests on table E, thereby DRA WING OFF FRONT FROM AA GUARDS REMOVED TO OAL on bers CUTTERS ~C VIEW DRIVING eee =e LOWER CUTTER ef it ) tt “P| SECTION ; AT A.A. exe ss IN SECTION Fic. 352.—Currina MacHINE ror Knitrep TuBuLaR Fasrics (SWINDELLS ENGINEERING Co.). stretching out the fabric to its full width; the passage of the biscuit forward is prevented by suitable stops. A foot pedal allows the machine to be stopped and started as desired. 308 TEXTILE MACHINERY Cutting Machine for Tubular Knitted Fabric—Before manufacture into garments, knitted tubular fabric is frequently cut lengthwise so as to reduce it to plain fabric. A machine suitable for this purpose is shown in Fig. 352, the fabric being cut while drawn forward over the guiding board at AA by the rubber-covered drawing-off rolls. Cutting is effected as the fabric passes between the rotating circular knives, B and C. The machine is capable of cutting knitted fabric accurately and at a very rapid rate ; it is suitable for printers of knitted fabrics. After finishing, hosiery and knitted materials are folded and parcelled in various forms, but it is not proposed to deal in this book with the machines employed for this purpose. CHAPTER IX MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY In previous chapters all the most important machines employed for bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing textile materials have been described, but it now remains in this concluding chapter to draw attention to a few accessory parts associated with such machines. Steam Traps.—In all machines for the heating or drying of yarns and fabrics, steam pipe lines and steam-heated double-jacketed vessels in which steam is stored under pressure, heat losses by radiation and conduction result in partial or complete conden- sation of the steam and the formation of a corresponding quantity of water. This water may be drained to a suitable reservoir and periodically discharged by means of Fic. 353a.—CoNsTRUCTION OF LANCASTER STEAM TRAP (LANCASTER AND TONGE). a hand-operated valve, but in most instances it is most satisfactory to arrange for the automatic discharge of the condensed steam by means of a steam trap. Several different types of steam traps are available, their design being governed by the conditions under which they are used. For instance, the water may be discharged to a higher or a lower level than the trap itself, the trap may be connected to a source of high or low pressure steam, the discharged water may be at 100 degrees C., or under less economical conditions it may be nearly as hot as the steam with which it is in contact. Generally, steam traps are divisible into two classes, those which work with a float and those whose action depends on the expansion of a metal rod or strip. Fig. 353a shows a “‘ Lancaster” steam trap (Lancaster and Tonge) of the non- lifting type with float control. E is a hollow cylindrical float perforated at F, having a tubular valve, N, and connected to a screwed spindle, S, at the end of which is a 309 310 TEXTILE MACHINERY loose valve which is alternately opened and shut by the rising and falling of the float rotating the screwed spindle, the whole being contained in a cast iron box. The normal position of the trap is with the float at the bottom of the box and the valve full open. When water accumulates in the vessel to which the trap is connected, Fic. 353b.—ConstTRUCTION OF LANCASTER STEAM TRAP (LANCASTER AND TONGE). it flows through the loose valve and passes down the hollow spindle, 8, into the float. The float thus becomes waterlogged and stays at the bottom till all the water is dis- charged. Steam then enters the float and drives out the water contained therein upwards and outwards through side holes in the head of the tubular valve, N, the water ultimately filling the box and overflowing through the top right-hand opening (Fig. 353a). The float now filled with steam becomes buoyant, rises and closes the valve. The steam left in the float condenses, water from the box then flows into it from the box through F, the float again becomes water- logged, sinks and thereby opens the valve so that the cycle of operations may be repeated. Water drained from steam at high pres- sures re-evaporates into steam when it enters the trap (at atmospheric pressure), and the escape of this steam is arranged for by the circular opening in the tubular valve, N (Fig. 3536). By rotation of the head of N, the escape of the re-evaporated water. through the opening can be regulated so that the water draining away from the trap may be at any temperature up to that of the steam as desired. Fae ation teres ee Towaui It will be noticed that the only wearing parts are the loose valve and its seating, and the trap is so designed that these parts can be readily removed without disturbing other parts. Also if owing to wear in the valve the float rises too high, this fault can be corrected by loosening the bolts shown in the quadrant (Fig. 353c) and re-setting ee MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 311 the position of the float. The right-hand attachment to the trap shown in Fig. 353¢ consists of a copper gauze filter which resists the passage into the trap of solid particles. Any excessive pressure exerted against the face of the loose valve would, by virtue of the quickness of the screw thread of 8, force it open, so that the valve also acts as a safety valve. Fic. 354.—Steam Trap (ROYLEs). Fic. 355.—ConstrRucTION oF SYPHONIA STEAM TRAP (ROYLEs). Another type of float steam trap is that known as Royle’s Syphonia Steam Trap and shown in Figs. 354 and 355, and its action can most easily be understood by considering the trap to be full of water. The float, F, thus rises and opens the inlet valve, E (Fig. 356), connected to the vessel being drained. Water is thus able to drain, through the open valve, E, and overflow through the syphon, H. When steam arrives, water is forced out of the trap through H so that the float sinks and partially 312 TEXTILE MACHINERY closes the valve E. It will now be obvious that this ejectment action will cease as soon as the float has so far closed the valve, E, that the amount of steam passing is absorbed by the natural condensation of the box. The valve, E, is therefore never absolutely closed and condensed water collecting above O at first passes slowly into the box through E, adds to the water in the box and raises the float, F, thereby further it TEE Fic. 356.—INLET VALVE FOR STEAM TRAP (ROYLES). opening the valve, E, and admits an increasing amount of water until steam arrives, when the water is driven out of the syphon, H, and the valve, E, closes as before. It will be noticed that there is never more than a slight pressure in the trap and that, in case of obstruction, it is merely necessary to remove the cover, lift the float Fig. 357.—SypHonta Rapip STEAM TRAP (ROYLES). and allow steam to blow through the trap. L is an air valve, actuated by the float lever, its function being to discharge the air on starting. The valve, E, is the only wearing part of the trap, and this, being simple in design, is easily renewable. By the addition of a check valve to prevent the return of the water, this type of trap can be used to elevate the discharged water. MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 313 In many instances, it is essential that condensed water should be discharged as rapidly as possible even if there is an unavoidable loss of heat due to the discharge of water hotter than 100 degrees C. Under such conditions the bucket type of steam trap is most suitable and some examples are shown here. Fig. 357 indicates the construction of Royle’s Syphonia Rapid steam trap, in which condensed water flows into the cast iron box, A, by the union inlet, B. When sufficient water has accumu- lated in the box it overflows into the open bucket float, C, and destroys its buoyancy so that it sinks, thereby opening the valve, D, thus allowing the water to discharge through the syphon pipe, E, and out of the trap through F. When steam enters the trap, the water in the bucket is displaced through F,, and the bucket again becoming buoyant, it rises and closes the valve, D; the cycle of operations may then be repeated. Fie. 358.—LancasterR BuckET Type STEAM Trap (LANCASTER AND TONGE). By means of a hand screw in the top of the trap, the bucket may be depressed and air, steam and water allowed to blow through the trap as desired. The valve is designed so that it may be easily renewed. Fig. 358 shows a similar Lancaster bucket steam trap. C is a free inlet for steam and water and the outlet is controlled by a valve, D, which is operated by the motion of the bucket float, E, to which it is connected by the rod, F, and lever, G. The lever allows an advantage of five to one over the valve. When water enters at C, it first fills the space outside the bucket, E, and then flows over the top of it until the bucket loses its buoyancy and falls to the bottom. In so doing, it opens the valve, D, to which it is connected, and when the water is rapidly discharged from the bucket this becomes buoyant again, thus rising and closing the valve, D, until the bucket is again filled, when the cycle of operations is repeated. 314 TEXTILE MACHINERY The Simplicity steam trap is mentioned here as being of design distinct from those described above. It is shown in Fig. 359 and contains a hollow, seamless ball of heavily nickelled copper, which floats to and is held against the discharge bushing (3) by the unbalanced steam pressure in the trap. As water accumulates in the trap, the water level, W, rises and the buoyant force of this water rolls the ball upward on the face of the discharge bushing (3), thereby exposing part or the entire area of the orifice, Y, and allowing the discharge of the water. When the water level again drops, the ball drops and covers the orifice and is again held tightly against the discharge bushing by unbalanced steam pressure. Thus at all times a water seal is provided between the steam in the top of the trap and the discharge orifice, Y, so that the possibility of steam leakage is eliminated. The wearing parts are the discharge bushing and the floating ball, and to avoid trouble in this respect, the centre of the bushing is fitted with a special nickel alloy. Fig. 359.—Simericiry STEAM Trap (KEy Fic. 360.—ORpINAaRY STEAM DRYER ENGINEERING Co.). (LANCASTER AND TONGE). Should a worn spot appear on the ball (this is less likely as the ball constantly rotates) a drop of solder can be applied to it and filed smooth; this causes the ball to turn over and keep the worn spot away from the discharge bushing. Steam Dryers.—During its transit from boiler to engine or machine through pipes, steam steadily condenses owing to heat losses by radiation and when dry steam is required for textile machines it becomes necessary to use steam dryers. A common form of dryer is shown in Fig. 360 and consists of a cylindrical chamber with a baffle plate. Steam entering at the left-hand inlet is deflected downwards, and then rises to leave by the right-hand outlet. Drops of water being carried forward by the steam have a greater momentum than the steam, and when deflected downwards they impinge on the bottom of the dryer and unite to form a small pool, which is then automatically drained away through an attached steam trap (see page 309). An improved and more satisfactory steam dryer is shown in Fig. 361, and is formed by a cylindrical receiver surrounding a central vertical pipe which forms the outlet from the receiver. Owing to this construction, steam entering at A descends in a ee MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 315 spiral direction round the central pipe as shown, at an average speed of about 90 feet per second. Drops of condensed steam are thus vigorously flung against the sides and bottom of the dryer, which are ribbed, and the drops coalesce and drain to the bottom and thence away to the steam trap. The steam, in a dry condition, finally passes upwards and outwards through the central pipe. In Fig. 361, C is a tap for draining mud or solid particles and B is the drain to a steam trap. 1 E B Fic. 362a.—RoLLER BEARING (RANSOME AND MARLEs). Fic. 361.—LANcASTER ‘‘ CENTRAL TUBE” Hie: ea ee eee NG Stream DryER (LANCASTER AND TONGE). (RANSOME AND MARLES). Bearings for Rotating Shafts —The tendency to-day is to provide, wherever possible, all machines for treating textile materials with ball or roller bearings. Such bearings not only considerably reduce friction and consequent loss of power, but they also allow machines to run more smoothly—a point of much importance now that artificial silk is being widely used in the construction of fabrics. for many classes of fabric it has become necessary to reduce warp tensions and particularly irregular warp tensions. It is not proposed to deal in detail with this aspect of textile machinery, but attention is drawn to a typical form of bearing shown in Figs. 362a and 362b, which can be used 316 TEXTILE MACHINERY on most classes of machines, particularly those employed for the treatment of fragile fabrics. These bearings may be fitted to any existing shaft, the bearing shown in Fic. 363.—FRicTION CLuTcH (Sir J. FarmMER, NORTON AND CoO.). Fig. 362a being provided with a ball race to withstand thrust. These bearings are of | the roller type and owing to being enclosed in a spherical housing they can accommodate the irregular motion of shafts which are not “true” or bent, without appreciable [SHAFT | TG eee | FRONT COVER | JAW | ADJUSTING STUD! SES G S| | LEVER \ SLIDING SLEEVE Fic. 364.—CoNsTRUCTION OF FricTION CLUTCH (SIR J. Fic. 365.—Avutomatic SLip-WINCH Farmer, NORTON AND CoO.). (GEORGE TAYLOR, LTD.). increase of friction losses. Such bearings are suitable for jigs, calenders and all kinds of finishing machinery. . Friction Clutches—Just as there is a tendency to improve the bearings of textile machines, efforts are also being made to improve methods for starting and stopping MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 317 machines. Under all these improvements lies the necessity for subjecting fabrics and textile material to the minimum of strain. This is particularly important with machines dealing with wet fabrics containing artificial silk, for all cellulose artificial silks lose about two-thirds of their strength when wet. Friction clutches for all machines are therefore being adopted. Friction clutches for jigs have been previously described (page 90), but a useful friction clutch for heavier machines such as calenders is shown in Fig. 363. This clutch is of the multiplate type and its construction is clearly shown in Fig. 364. Compression of the plates is obtained by the sliding sleeve shown. Machines fitted with such a clutch may be started with the minimum of snatch or jerk. Automatic Slip-Winch.—Winches (see page 34) are usually positively keyed to the shaft which produces their rotation. Hence when a winch is drawing fabric, the winch continues to rotate whether or not the fabric becomes fast or entangled, and damaged fabric may thus result. The slip-winch shown in Fig. 365 is not keyed to its driving shaft, but grips the latter through two spring-actuated Ferodo-lined clutches. Consequently any excessive drag or pull of the fabric on the winch causes it to slip on the driving shaft. This type of winch is therefore a satisfactory safety device. INDEX AGEING chamber, 98, 154 for looped fabric, 162 Ageing and steaming chambers; Mouthpiece for Air and gas compressor, 24, 25, 26 Aniline black dyeing machines, 98, 101 Automatic fabric guiders, 60 Automatic piling machinery for bleaching croft, 28 for kiers, 45 Automatic slip winch, 317 Back filling mangles, 177 Back greys for printing machines, 137, 149, 151 Bearings for shafts, 315 Beaters for washing machines, 165 Beating, brushing and cleaning machine for fabrics, 114 Beetling machines, 203, 204 Belt stretching machine, 168 Biscuits for hosiery finishing machines, 300 Blanket drying and finishing machines, 185 finishing machines for hosiery, 303 Blanket washing machines, 151 Blankets for printing machines, 137, 149, 151 Bleaching machines for fabric, 48, 50, 51 for yarn, 221 Bowls; Arrangement of calender, 194 ; Construction of soft calender for starching mangles, 177 for wool scouring machines, 267 Box wheel of printing roller. 139 Brattice drying machine, 286 Brattice scouring machine for yarn, 224 Brattices for wool scouring machines, 270 Brush damping machine, 172 Brushing machines, 113, 114 Brushing rollers, 113 Bucket steam traps, 313 Burr crushing machines 277 in a_seven-bow! , 201 Calenders; Chasing , 188 ; Construction of , 188, 189 —; Embossing , 188 ——; Finishing , 188 —; Friction , 191 —; Glazing , 188 —; Schreiner , 188 ——; Side frames of , 189, 190 ; Swissing , 188 Canroy machine, 120 Capacities of centrifuges, 231 Caustic lye recovery apparatus; 109 Cavity segment drying cylinder, 178 Cell drying machine, 67 Centonip skein dyeing machine, 248 Centrifuge for acid impregnated wool, 229 Centrifuge; Materials of construction of ; Consumption of power for , 239 ; Electrically driven 5 AD Chasing calenders, 188 Cheese dyeing machine, 259 Chest and cylinder drying apparatus, 153 Circular skein mercerising machine, 264 Cleaning doctor for printing machines, 137 Clip chains, 124 Clip stretching machine, 120 Clips for stenters, 128, 129, 130, 131 **Coloras’”’ skein dyeing machine, 250 Colour mixing pans, 135, 136 Combined ordinary and back filling mangles, 178 “* Matter ’? ——, » 228 318 Compensating device for fabrics, 133, 145 Compound leverage for printing machines, 138 Compound slides for printing machines, 140 Conditioning machines for hosiery, 301, 302 Conical opening rollers, 58 Construction of calenders, 188, 189 Construction of starching mangles, 174 Continuous drying machine for loose wool, 277 Continuous dyeing machine, 92 Continuous skein mercerising machine, 264 Cop dyeing machines, 255 Cop holders, 257 Cop spindles, 255, 257 Cotton; Heat liberated during mercerisation of , 104 ; Impurities in ——, 17 Crabbing machines, 212 Crease removing machinery, 51, 53 Curved bar expanders, 52 Cutting blades for shearing machines, 119 Cutting machine for knitted fabric, 308 Damping machines for fabric, 171 for knitted fabric, 301 Dead set pins, 36 Dead set pressure, 36 De-gumming vat for silk skeins, 224 Differential gear for stenter machines, 124, 127 Dollheads, 66, 67 Double schreiner calender, 201 Drag rollers for printing machines, 137 Drying cylinders, 61, 64 Drying figured fabrics, 178 Drying machines, 61, 283, 284, 286, 298 Drying machines for printed fabrics, 151, 153, 154 ; Horizontal , 66 for looped fabric, 69, 73, 74 for loose fibres, 278, 281, 282 for woollen fabrics, 77, 78 for yarns, 232, 236, 238 with cells, 68 with conditioning arrangements, 237 with rollers, 65 with winches, 66 Drying and stretching machines for fabric, 178 for yarns, 240 Dyeing machinery for fabrics, 81 for hosiery, 291 Dyeing machines for fabrics, 81 for hosiery, 291 for yarn, 242, 244, 246, 249, 253 Dye sticks, 242 Dye Vats, 242 Dunging ranges, 167 Duplex printing machines, 151 LITT I Edmeston open-width kier, 47 Eight-colour printing machine, 142 Electrically driven centrifuge, 230 Embossing calender, 188, 203 Emery rollers for mote-clearing machine, 120 Expanders; Curved bar » 52 Fabric guiders, automatic, 60, Fabric; Impregnating machines for Faller beam for shearing machine, 119 Figured Fabrics, Drying 5 Lt8 Finishing calenders, 188 Finishing machinery, 168 for hosiery, 303 for knitted goods, 299 for woollen fabrics, 209 » 28 INDEX Five bowl rack geared calender, 194 Flat plate pressing machine, 214 Folded knitted fabric dyeing machine, 297 Four cutter shearing machine, 119 Friction calenders, 191 Friction clutch, 316 Friction clutches for jigs, 90 Friction starch mangles, 176 Fuel for singeing machines, 2] Fulling mill for hosiery, 290 Furnishing rollers for printing machines, 138 Gas burners for singeing machines, 23, 24, 25 Gas flame singeing machines, 21, 22, 23, 27 Gas heated plate singeing machines, 22 Gilled steam pipes, 71 Glazing calenders, 188 Guiding rollers, 54 Hardite, 83, 243, 293 Harrow types of wool scouring machines, 267, 269 Heat liberated during mercerisation of cotton, 104 Horizontal drying machines, 66 Hosiery dyeing machine utilising compressed air, 291 Hosiery finishing machines; Biscuits for 5 Bh0i0) Hosiery; Fulling mill for , 290 ; Raising machines for , 304 ; Rotary dyeing machine for » 293 Hot air drying chamber for printed fabric, 135 Hot air stenters, 61, Hot flue, 135 Huillard open-width kier, 45 Hydraulic pressure for schreimer calenders, 199 Hydroexhauster for fabrics, 77 Hydroextractors, 224 Hydrosulphite ageing machine, 160 Impregnating machines for fabric, 28 Impurities in cotton, 17 Indented steam pipes, 287 Indigo dyeing machines, 95, 98 Injectors, steam, 39 Inspection machine for knitted fabric, 305 Jackson open-width kier, 45, 46 Jefferson Walker kier, 42, 43 Jig rollers, 88, 90 Jig with constant speed arrangements, 87 Jig with squeezing rollers, 87 Jig with submerged draw rollers, 90 Jigging motion for stenters, 178 Jigging stenter; Construction of yo Jigging stentering range, 181 Jigs, 83, 85 Kiers for fabrics, 38 ; Jefferson-Walker ——.,, 42, 43 yarns, 219 Kiers; Mather eeoD a Lo high pressure, 39 low pressure, 38 open width, 45, 46, 47 Knitted fabric inspection machine, 305 3; Cutting machine for —— ——; Damping machines for eres meee Ei Ledger blades for shearing machines, 119 Levered pressure system for mangles, 36 Lint doctor for printing machines, 137 Looped cloth ageing machine, 162 Looped cloth drying machine, 69, 73, 74 Poles for GP.23 2 319 , 267 ; 278, 281, Loose cotton; Bleaching machinery for Loose fibres; Drying machines for 282 —— ——,; Opening machines for Loose wool; Machine for drying 277 » 282 continuously, Machines for conditioning hosiery, 301, 302 —— for dyeing mercerised yarn, 242 —— for dyeing warps, 252 —— for removing creases in fabrics, 51, 53 Malting apparatus with time wheel, 167 Mandrel of printing roller, 140 Mangle for mercerising machine, 104 Mangles, 60 ; Back filling liz ; Combined ordinary and back filling ; Levered pressure system for , 36 Materials of construction of centrifuge, 228 Mather kier, 39, 40 ‘* Matter’ caustic lye recovery apparatus, 109 Measuring and lapping machine, 214 Mercerisation of cotton; Heat liberated during —— 104 Mercerised yarn; Machines for dyeing ——, 242 Mercerising machinery, 81 —— —— for fabric, 101, 109 for yarns, 260, 263 without stenter frame, 112 Milling machines, 75, 77 Monel metal, 247 Mote cleaning machine, 120 ; Emery rollers for , 120 Mouthpiece for ageing and steaming chambers, 160 Multitubular heaters, 39, 287 —, 178 Natural lustre finishing machine, 208 Nip fittings for printing machines, 139 One-colour printing machine, 137 Opening machines for loose fibres, 282 Opening rollers; Conical ry tite! Open-width kier; EKdmeston 47 3; Huillard 45 —— ——; Jackson ——,, 45, 46 Padding mangles, 91, 92, 93 Paddle dyeing machine, 291 Palmer finishing machine, 185 Para Red dyeing machine, 95 Pegson steam heated calender for hosiery, 305 Piling machinery for bleaching crofts, 28 for kiers, 45 Pin clips for stenter machines, 78 Plaiting machine, 216 Plate for singeing machines, 19 Plate singeing machines, 19 Pole-carrying device for looped cloth drying machine, ial Poles for looped cloth drying machine, 71 Preparing range, 131 Pressure bowl for printing machine, 137, 149 Printed fabrics; Drying machines for 153, 154 ; Furnishing rollers for —— ——; Lint doctors for fe LES ; Nip fittings for 7 ee) Printing machinery for woven fabrics, 113, 137 sole , 138 ; Cleaning doctors for , 137 hosiery, 298 Printing machines; Drag rollers for low ; Duplex 3 LoL 220 9 2 7 , 142° 2 . 320 Printing rollers, 139, 140, 148 ; Box wheels for —— ——; Compound slides for ; Mandrels of , 140 Prongs for rakes of scouring machines, 273 , 139 , 140 Raising gig, 213 Raising machines for hosiery, 304 Rigging machine, 216 Ring-oiled bearings of calenders, 191 Roller washing machine for fabric, 29, 30 with spring pressure, 36 Rope dye beck, 81 Rotary dyeing machine for hosiery, 293 Rotary pressing machine, 23 Sample printing machine, 144 Sarree printing machine, 151 Schreiner calender; Construction of ——-, 199 ; Hydraulic pressure for , 199 ; with slipping clutch, 199 Schreiner calenders, 188 Schreiner machines, 198 Scouring and shrinking machine for knitted goods, 290 Scouring machine for knitted goods, 289 Serimp rails, 54 ; Self-sharpening ——,, 54, 55 Scroll rollers, 58 Seutcher, 52 Self-cleansing bowls for wool scouring machine, 267 Self-sharpening scrimp rails, 54, 55 Selvedge stamping machine, 218 Seven bowl finishing calender, 191 ; Arrangement of bowls in , 194 Sewing machines, 17, 18 Sewing stitches, 19 Shafts; Bearings for , 315 Shearing machines; Cutting blades for , 119 —— ; Ledger blades for a hs) Shearing machines, 119 Shearing machine; Faller beam for cL ED ; Four-cutter 5 nits) ; Six-cutter , 119 Short conditioning machine, 168 Side frames of calenders, 189, 190 Silk finishing calender, 194 skins; De-gumming vat for , 224 Singeing machines; Plate , 19 Singeing machines; Fuel for AA ; Gas burners for , 23, 24, 25 ; Gas flame 3 Single colour printing machine, 140 Single cutter shearing machine, 120 Six bowl calender, 191 Six-colour printing machine, 142 Six-cutter shearing machine, 119 Skein dyeing machines, 242, 244, 246, 249, 253 Skein washing machines, 221 Skewing device for schreiner calender, 200 Slack washing machines, 30, 31, 32 Slip winch; Automatic 5 Gl Slotted tube device for mercerisers, 104 Soaping stocks for yarn, 221 Souring and washing machines for mercerised yarns, 266 Spiral roller breaking machine, 208 Spray damping machine, 172 Spreading rollers, 55, 57 Spring beetling machine, 204 Spring pressure for printing machines, 140 Sprocket wheel for stenter machine, 127 Square beater washing machine, 33, 34 Squeezing machines, 28,33, 84,36 ee euiei « ° a MY ee 8 « c by c ~ @€ € G6 INDEX Squeezing mangles for wool scouring machines, 274 Starching and drying range, 178 Starching mangles, 173, 174 ; Bowls for pelt ; Construction of aaa: Starch mangles; Friction , 176 Steam chest, 149, 152 Steam driven centrifuge, 228 Steam dryers, 314 Steam injectors, 39 Steam traps, 309, 310 Steaming cottage, 162, Stenter clips for mercerisers, 108 Stenter frames, 108 Stentering machines, 123 soe ; Construction of , 181 —— ——; Differential gear for 24 T —— — ; Hotair Soh —— ——; Jigging , 181 ; Jigging motion for 5 lifts) Stretching apparatus for mercerisers, 111 Suction washing device for printing machines, 149 Sulphur black dyeing machine, 93 Swing Rake type of wool scouring bowl, 269 Swivel opening and guiding rollers, 54 Swissing calenders, 188 Ten-bowl calender, 194 Tentering machines, 77, 78 Threading of seven-bowl calender, 194 Three-bed hosiery steam press, 303 Three-bowl starch mangle, 174 Three bowl swissing calender, 191 Tingor dyeing machine, 252 Top dyeing machine, 258 Traverse motion for singeing machinery, 21 Twelve colour printing machine, 143 Twigging for scroll rollers, 58 Two-bed hosiery steam press, 302 Universal filling mangles, 177 Vitralite, 83 V-squeezing rollers, 34 Waggons for Mather kier, 39, 221 Warps; Machines for dyeing ——, 252 Washing, fixing, chloring and dunging machines, 162 Washing machines; Beaters for , 165 —— for fabric, 28 —— —— for yarn, 219 Water dropping in ageing chambers; Prevention of , 160 Water ejector in drying cylinders, 64 Water mangle, 60 Weft straightening device, 131 Winch dyeing machine for woven fabric, 81 for hosiery, 296 Winches, 81 Wool carbonising machine, 275 Wool fabric scouring machines, 74, 75 Wool scouring machinery, 267 ; Bowls for Od ; Brattices for 2 210 Woollen fabrics; Drying machines for Rais fits) ; Finishing machinery for , 299 —— ——; Flat plate pressing machine for : 214 Worm reduction gear for printing machines, 144 Yarns; Bleaching machinery for , 221 ; Drying machines for » 232, 236, 238 ——; Dyeing machines for , 242, 244, 246, 249, “ORNS © BEBE ce « et “Se te 0« a . « ame - 5 pts, rie os MN , a : ss sad eS Ant ye mS a We aged ‘ ure Wicerkee nag ete Kk, RNase Pountic is mA aa aN ine Me REA - Np Es IRN, 3 . $ npn SA ety ee roe rae Os Me Fey sie iced aa la Pianta aN De ad 2 Dotan Ne Ts Simtel NR Sh id ea a ans a yap aga NS Bene od Fog Si bleed Ch G be Phe hs NY ae eee era. oy! 5 ri A a hee Ay me Sons ed Beak ira cee Rad oie pees . ~ ales ms ne ; 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