~—e mee ea . F MARCA eet em in pret ae a i ae en eR NS ES ES NS RE MN ie TE A ARE EA AR cae —-- Sa a a SS tll Wrerorrase Dy. p aydlin ast aS Pane wel SDE 2 ns eee ees rs mee ie Sos COOK? S ORACLE; CONTAINING RECEIPTS FOR PLAIN COOKERY, ON THE MOST a eMHICAL, PLAN FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES: F ALSO THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE AND ‘MOST HIGHLY FINISHED aBrotbs, Girabies, Soups, Sauces, Store Sauces, AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES: PASTRY, PRESERVES, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. ‘CONTAINING ALSO A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF COOKERY FOR CATHOLIC FAMILIES. The Quantity of each Article is ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND MEASURE; BEING THE RESULT OF — Actual Experiments INSTITUTED IN THE KITCHEN OF ‘ WILLIAM KITCHINER, M.D. AUTHOR OF. THE ART OF INVIGORATING LIFE BY FOOD$ THE HOUSEKEEPER’S LEDGER; THE HORSE AND CARRIAGE-KEEPER’S QRACIES THE TRAVELLER’S ORACLE$ THE ECONOMY OF THE EYES, AND RULES FOR CHOOSING AND USING SPECTACLES, OPERA GLASSES, AND TELESCOPES; OBSERVATIONS ON SINGING, &c.3 AND EDITOR OF THE NATIONAL AND SEA SONGS OF ENGLAND. ~ « Miscuit utile dulci.” 4 NEW EDITION. LONDON: PRINTED FOR CADELL AND CO. EDINBURGH ; SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, AND G. B. WHITTAKER, LONDON 3 ' AND JOHN CUMMING, DUBLIN. To be had of all Booksellers. 1829. SR eee ES Ge ONDON: acd MOYES, TOOK's COURT, xitatavie’ 4 Aree ee a ee a ee Pe egy ee pet ee ye te | ee BPR i ae Palate aioe: > ha HA Ait aan Ho “3 . J : ' r AS x Paty eer } aa CONTENTS. , ‘Page MR eee sep hus ha tae knee ee hs Said ot AE AS Se By pavenih Edition 400.610 sdieioek ovals wes XVii INTRODUCTION.......0200005 Behe as ane pista bats bhacdl EiyaR | ROS 8 555 oo ees ib t ain alvin bce arelghiis tietecssaes 25 Tnyiauons to Pinner’: 4's cs passes Cbpiaaisiele Maids. aces -ats 30 ee es iri orm Go 5 we S 5 cco 6 tia Mister avs wine bes Se tte: i Friendly Advice to Cooks ...... OE Ue TAP BA AT ME 45 Mable OE Werents, Ses... Se eco es TP ae I cig epee? 69 RUDIMENTS OF COOKEKY. UT ORI 5 isin’ a ae on: diols ee wince ale WHE sels Sa 8k 71 LESS OT ee ane eyes es ye iar folate Tae re LOA MUD Coins vw ne elie sc gists eek apes aie oie Meat ot Fo Peete are VIE 510255 ss wisn ele thus awn yenopee' oases o:0 4. 91 —— 4. Broiling ......... eee cee ewes eo oo ee wma §, Veretables. oc. ccc cesses cb eesvsneeeces 96 ———— 6. Fish......... rele sora Stine a0 PIG ee 100 ECS 7a oie bi wb cir a: ¥ Niacels Wy bWaieia otal sacs 103 ———— 7. Broths and Soups ............... cee eee eee 104 — —— 8. Gravies and Sauces .......... cece ee ee eee 120 Me eS CS oie sig koe se Vaiw aces Caley eee 128 Tiere Vai a giape thee 'cloi as oie Migs ain g dies > 130 Marketing Pables <0... 26.4 0ses Se aides owes bichs ate WAR ere .. 434 APPENDIX. Pastry, Confectionary, Preserves, &c............ ea ere'e eo 440 Po ees ee eine ines gers yes Oi Hania minie ole wide wits 475 Observations on Puddings CETthe Cie Ray aa Wu Cee . 478 PMI aie Ls ore pies as vets: b we Cow sweddveres inlaiie Cale. ws - 487 ME Rey La egg Mallu Lic cig us way estou Wie ER NON 495 Eee Sa oe 4 Se wa € Meals . ; ie Oe ee Te Ah cig ee 7 a: we we * oe yaw ye KEay yas" LA. hig “oh is {yee ose Whe eR PREFACE ‘THE THIRD EDITION. Amone the multitudes of causes which concur to, impair Health and produce Disease, the most general is the improper quality of our Food: this, most-fre- quently, arises from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared :—yet, strange, ‘‘ passing strange,” this is the only one for which a remedy has not been sought ;—few persons bestow half so much atten- tion on the preservation of their own Health, as they daily devote to that of their Dogs and Horses. The observations of the Guardians of Health re- spec.ing Regimen, &c. have formed no more than a Cat logue of those articles of Food, which they have considered most proper for particular Consti- tutions. | Some Medical writers have “ in good set terms” warned us against the pernicious effects of improper Diet; but—not one has been so kind as to take the trouble to direct us how to prepare Food pro- Via arora anes a PREFACE. perly— excepting only the contributions of Count Rumrorp, who says, in pages 16 and 70 of his - tenth Essay, ‘* however low and vulgar this subject has hitherto generally been thought to be—zn what Art or Science could improvements be made that would more powerfully contribute to increase the comforts and enjoyments of mankind? Would to Gop! that L could fix the public attention to this subject!” The Editor has endeavoured to write the following Receipts so plainly, that they may be as easily understood in the Kitchen as He trusts they will be relished in the Dining Room—and has been more ambitious to present to the Public a Work which will contribute to the daily Comfort of All, than to seem elaborately Scientific. The practical part of the philosophy of the Kit- chen is certainly not the most agreeable ;— Gastro- logy has.to contend with its full share of those great impediments to all great improvements in scientific pursuits,—the prejudices of the Ignorant, and the misrepresentations of the Envious. The Sagacity to comprehend and estimate the importance of any uncontemplated improvement — is confined to the very few on whom Nature has bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the Sense which is to measure it;—the candour to make a fair report of it is still more uncommon, — and the kindness to encourage it cannot often be PREFACE. _ tien expected from: those whose most vital interest it is to prevent the development. of that by: which their own importance— perhaps their only means of Exist- ence, may be for ever eclipsed —so, as Pore gb ti how many are | “‘ Condemn’d in Business or in Arts to drudge, 12 Without a rival, or without a Judge: All -fear,— None aid you,—and Few understand.” Improvements in Agriculture and the Breed of Cattle have been encouraged by Premiums — (see Note under No. 19, and under No. 59). Those who have obtained them, have been hailed as Bene- ‘factors to Society!—but the Art of making use of these means of ameliorating Life, and support- ing a healthful Existence— CooxEry — has been - neglected !! While the cultivators of the Raw Materials are distinguished and rewarded, the attempt to improve the processes, without which neither Vegetable nor Animal substances are fit for the food of Man (astonishing to say), has been ridiculed, as pair the attention of a rational Being !! The most useful* Art,—which the Editor has chosen to endeavour to illustrate, because nobody * “ The only test of the utility of Knowledge, is its promoting the Happiness of mankind.” — Dr. Stark on Diet, p. 90. vill PREFACE. else has—and because he knew not how he could employ some leisure hours more beneficially for Man- kind, than to teach them to combine the “ utile”? with the “ dulce,” and to increase their Pleasures, without impairing their Health, or impoverishing their - Fortune,—has been for many Years his favourite employment; and “ Tue Art or INviGORATING AND PRoLONGING Lire By Foop,* &c. &c.” and . this Work, have insensibly become repositories for whatever Observations he has made which he thought would make us—‘“ LivE HAPPY, AND Live tone!!!” The Editor has considered the Art. of CooxEry, not merely as a mechanical operation, fit only for | working Cooks, but as the Analeptic part of the Art of Physic. “¢ How best the fickle fabric to support Of mortal man,—in healthful body how A healthful mind the longest to maintain” (ARMSTRONG), is an Occupation neither unbecoming nor unworthy Philosophers of the highest class—such only can comprehend its importance; which amounts to no less than, not only the enjoyment of the present moment; but the more precious advantage of im- * Published by Geo. B. Whittaker, Ave Maria Lane; and Cadell and Co,, Edinburgh. PREFACE. 1X proving and preserving Heauru, and prolonging Lire, which depend on duly replenishing the daily waste of the human frame with materials pregnant with Nutriment and easy of Digestion. If Medicine be ranked among those Arts -which dignify their Professors, Cookery may lay claim to an equal, if not a superior distinction ;—to prevent Diseases is surely a more advantageous Art to Man- kind than to cure them. ‘‘ Physicians should be good Cooks, at least in theory.”— Dr. Man DEVILLE on Hypochondriasis, p. 316. ‘The learned Dr. ARBUTHNOT observes, in page 3 of the preface to his Essay on Aliment, that “‘ the choice and measure of the materials of which our Body is composed—what we take daily by Pounps —is at least of as much importance as what we take seldom, and only by Grains and spoonsful.”’ Those in whom the Organ of Taste is obtuse,— or who have been brought up in the happy habit of being content with humble fare,—whose Health is so firm, that it needs no artificial adjustment, — who, with the appetite of a Cormorant, have the digestion of an Ostrich, and eagerly devour what- ever is set before them, without asking any questions about what it is, or how it has been prepared,— may perhaps imagine that the Editor has sometimes been rather overmuch refining the business of the Kitchen, } Ava - PREFACE. * ‘¢ Where Ignorance is bliss, —’tis Folly to be wise.” But as few are so fortunate as to be trained up to understand how well it is worth their while to cultivate such habits of Spartan forbearance, —we cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome precepts, in a higher degree, than by disarming Luxury of its sting, and making the refinements of Modern Cookery minister not merely to sensual gratification, but at the same time support the substantial excitement of “ mens sana in corpore sano.” ! Delicate and Nervous Invalids, who have unfor- tunately a sensitive palate, and have been accus- tomed to a luxurious variety of savoury Sauces, and highly seasoned Viands ;— those who, from the infirmity of Age are become incapable of correcting habits created by. absurd indulgence in Youth, are entitled to some consideration, —and, for their sake, the Elements of Opsology are explained in the most intelligent manner; and I have assisted the Memory. of young Cooks, by annexing to each Dish the various Sauces which usually accompany it, refer- ring to their Numbers in the Work. Some Idle Idiots have remarked to the Author, that “ there are really so many REFERENCEs from one Receipt to another, that it is exceedingly trou- blesome indeed; they are directed sometimes to - PREFACE, XE turn to half a dozen Numbers:” this is quite true. If the Author had not adopted this plan of Refer- ence, his Book, to be equally explicit, must have been ten times as big—his object has been to give as much information as possible in as few pages, and for as few pence as possible. By reducing. Culinary operations to ‘something like a Certainty, Invalids will no longer be entirely indebted to Chance, whether they shall recover and Live long, and comfortably—or speedily Die of Sicwhtion in the midst of Plenty. These rules and orders for the Regulation of ‘fe : business of the Kitchen have been extremely bene- ficial to the Editor’s own Health and Comfort. He hopes they will be equally so to others: they will help | those who enjoy Health to preserve it; teach those who have delicate and irritable Stomachs how to keep them in good temper; and, with a little discretion, enable them to indulge occasionally, not only with impunity, but with advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which a rational Epicure* can desire. There is no Question more frequently asked — or which a Medical man finds more difficulty in -. answering, to the satisfaction of himself and his. Patient, than— What do you wish me to eat? * For the Editor’s definition of this term, see the note in page 4 of the following Introduction. Xl PREFACE. The most judicious choice of Aliment will avail nothing, unless the Culinary preparation of it be equally judicious. — How often is the skill of a - pains-taking Physician counteracted by want of corresponding attention to the preparation of Food ; and the poor Patient, instead of deriving Nourish- __ment, is distressed by Indigestion ! | PARMENTIER, in his Code Pharmaceutique, has given a chapter on the preparation of Food — some ~ of the following Receipts are offered as an humble. attempt to form a sort of APPENDIX TO THE PHAR- MACOPaIA, and like pharmaceutic prescriptions, they are precisely adjusted by Werght and Measure. The Author of a Cookery Book, first published in 1824, has: claimed this act of Industry of mine as his own original invention — ti> only notice.I shall take of his pretensions is to say, that the First | Edition of “ The Cook’s Oracle” appeared in 1817. By ordering such Receipts of the Coox’s ORACLE as appear adapted to the case, the recovery of the patient and the credit of the Physician, as far as relates to the administration of Aliment,—need ‘no longer depend on the discretion of the Cook. — For instance: Mutton. Broth, No. 490, or No. 564; Toast and Water, No. 463 ; Water Gruel, No. 5725 Beef Tea, No. 563 ; and Portasie Soup, No. 252. This concentrated Essence of Meat will be found a great acquisition to the comfort of the Army, the ‘PREFACE. Xiil Navy, the Traveller, and the Invalid ;—by dissolving half an ounce of it in halfa pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes half a Pint of good Broth for three halfpence. The utility of such accurate and precise directions for preparing Food is to TRavEL- LERs incalculable, for, by translating the Receipt, any person may prepare what is desired as perfectly as a good English Cook. . He has also circumstantially detailed the easiest, least expensive, and most salubrious methods of pre- paring those highly finished Soups —Sauces— Ra- gotits—and piguante relishes, which the most ingenious ‘‘ Officers of the Mouth” have invented © for the amusement of thorough-bred ‘* Grands Gourmands.” It has been his Aim to render Food acceptable to the Palate, without being expensive to the Purse, or offensive to the Stomach — nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury without being sur- feiting, constantly endeavouring to hold the balance — even, between the agreeable and the wholesome, the Epicure and the Economist. He has not presumed to recommend one Receipt ‘that has not been previously and repeatedly proved in His own Kitchen, which has not ‘been approved by the most accomplished Cooks; and has, more- over, been eaten with unanimous applause by A ComMMITTEE OF TasTE, composed of some of the _ Xiv , PREFACE. most illustrious Gastropholists of this luxurious Metropolis. The Editor has been materially assisted by Mr. Henry Osborne, the excellent Cook to the late Sir Josrpu Banxs:—that worthy President of the Royal Society was so sensible of the importance of the subject the Editor was investigating, that He sent his Cook to assist him in his arduous task ; and’many of the Receipts in this Edition are much improved by his suggestions and corrections. See No. 560. This is the only English Cookery Book which has been written from the Real Experiments of a HovusEKEEPER for the benefit of HouSEKEEPERS, which the reader will soon perceive bythe minute | attention that has been employed to elucidate and improve the Art or PLain Cookery, — detailing - many particulars and precautions, which may at first appear frivolous— but which experience will prove to be essential—to teach a common Cook how to provide, and to prepare common Food — so frugally, and so perfectly, that the plain every day Family Fare of the most Economicau Hovuss- KEEPER may, with scarcely additional expense, or any additional trouble—be a@ satisfactory Enter- tainment for an Epicure, or an INVALID. By an attentive consideration of “ THE. Rupt- MENTS OF CookEry,” and the respective Receipts, PREFACE, XV the most ignorant Novice in the business of the Kitchen, may work with the utmost facility and certainty of success, and soon become A Goop Cooke). Will all the other Books of Cookery that ever were printed do this?—To give his readers an idea of the immense labour attendant upon this Work, it may be only necessary for the Author to state, that he has patiently pioneered through more than Two Hunprep Cookery Books before he set about recording these results of his own Expe-' riments!!! Store Sauces, and many articles of Domestic Comfort, which are extravagantly expensive. to pur- chase, and can very seldom be procured genuine, he has given plain directions how to prepare at_ Home — of infinitely finer flavour, and considerably cheaper than they can be obtained ready made: for example, MusHroom Cartcuup, No. 439. Essence or Cerery, No. 409. Ancuovy, No. 433. Sweet Herps, No. 417. Lemon-Peet, No. 408. Savoury Spice, Nos. 421, 457, 459,. a re and 460. ) Gincer, No. 411. CayvENNE Pepper, No. 404. KV1 PREFACE. Curry Powper, No. 456. Escuatot Wiwe, No. 402. PorraBLe Soup, No. 252. Pick Es, &c. &c. &c., see p. 487. Thus, the table of the most Economical Family may, by the help of this Book, be entertained with as much elegance as that of a SOVEREIGN PRINCE. PREFACE THE SEVENTH EDITION. TuHeE whole of this Work has, a Seventh time, been carefully revised — but this last time I have found little to add, and little to alter. I have bestowed as much attention on each of | the 590 Keceipts as if the whole merit of the Book was to be estimated entirely by the accuracy of my detail of One particular process. The increasing demand .for ‘“ The Coor’s. ORACLE,” amounting in 1822 to the extraordinary number of upwards of 15,000, has been stimulus enough to excite any man to submit to the most ? unremitting study ; and the Editor has felt it as an imperative duty to exert himself to the utmost to render ‘‘ The Coox’s ORACLE”’ a faithful narrative of all that is known .of the various subjects it pro-- fesses to treat. : To the Fourrn Epirion were added One Hun- dred and Thirty New Receipts, which will greatly ene ¢ XVIUL PREFACE. improve the Comfort and Economy of all, especially of Caruoutic Fami.iss ;— being the best methods of making , Maicre Gravy Sours, No. 224. Dirtro Peass, No. 217. Ditrtro Green Pease, No. 217. Various Fisu Sours, No. 225. Aut Friep Fisw 1n Criaririep Butter, No. 259. Fresu Satmon Broitep, No. 163. Dirro Picken, No. 161. Carp To Stew, No. 158. Potrep LogpsTEerR or Cras, No. 178. LossTER Parrizs (Appendix, No. 27). STEWED Oysters, No. 182*. Sco.LLoPeD Oysters, No. 182. To Stew Fisu Maiere, No. 158. Fisu Pres, No. 158. Forcemeat, No. 383. SreweEp Ee ts, No. 164. Macaronl, No. 543. SrEWwED Onions, No. 137. OMELETTES AND VARIOUS WAyYs oF DRESSING Eees, AnD Warmineo Coup Fisu, p. 408. Potato Piz, No, 115. CHEESE AND Toast, No. 539, - ToasteD, No. 540. a BUTTERED, Noo 4is PREFACE. . XIX CHEESE, PounpEp or Portep, No. 542. ‘“PoacueEpD Eees, No. 487. | Puppines, p. 478. MAiIGRE AND SAvoury PaAstIEs, p. 443, MAIGRE AND Savoury Partizs, p. 443. PRESERVES, p. 471. Tarts, p. 450. CakEs, p. 458. And the general business of THe Pastry-Cook AND ‘THE Baker, p. 440. Also, an easy and economical Process for preparing — PickLEs, p. 487. by which they will be ready in a fortnight, and re- main good for Years. : | I hope that in these New. Receipts the quantities . of the various articles, and the processes for com- pounding them, are described so accurately and so plainly, that the most inexperienced person may work from them :—but do not vouch for all these new Receipts, — as some of them have not yet been pony in my own Kitchen. WM. KITCHINER: July 2d, 1823. * Pp s 1 « ; = if See ney ide ¢3> VER OULA a a |) ee tna ak ae INTRODUCTION. Tue following Receipts are not a mere marrowless collec- tion of shreds and patches, and cuttings and pastings, — but a bond fide register of Practical Facts, — accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued or evaporated by the igniferous terrors of a Roasting Fire in the Dog-days, — in defiance of the odoriferous and calefacient repellents, of Roasting, — Bowling, — Frying, —and Browlng ;— more- — over, the Author has submitted to a labour no preceding Cookery-Book-maker, perhaps, ever attempted to en- counter, — having eaten each Receipt before he set it down in his book, - . They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently. well-educated Palate, and a rather fastidious Stomach ; — perhaps this. certificate of the reception of the respective preparations — will partly apologise for the Book contain- ing a smaller number of them than preceding writers on this gratifying subject have transcribed — for the amuse- ment of “‘ every man’s Master,” the STOMA CH.* Numerous as are the Receipts in former Books, they vary little from each other, except in the name given to them ; the processes of Cookery are very few, —I have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain and circum- stantial a manner, as I hope will be easily understood, even by the Amateur, who is unacquainted with the prac-. tical part of Culinary concerns. — Oxtp HousexerPers may think I have been tediously j * «< The Stomacu is the Grand Organ of the human system, upon the state of which, all the powers and feelings of the individual depend.’’ — See HuUNTER’s Culina, p. 13. ** The faculty the Stomach has of communicating the impressions made by the various substances that are put into it, is such, that it Seems more like a nervous expansion from the Brain, than a mere receptacle for Food.”—Dr. WaTERHOUSE’Ss Lecture on Health, p. 4. ‘ 2 INTRODUCTION. minute on many points which may appear trifling : — my Predecessors seem to have considered the Rup1iMENTs of Cookery quite unworthy of attention. These little deli- cate distinctions constitute all the difference between a common and an elegant Table, and are not trifles to the Younc HovusrKEEPERS, who must learn them either from the communication of others,— or blunder on till their own slowly accumulating and dear-bought experience ° teaches them. ; A wish to save Time, Trouble, and Money, to inexpe- rienced Housekeepers and Cooks,— and to bring the enjoy- ments and indulgences of the Opulent within reach of the middle Ranks of Society, —were my motives for publishing this book ;—1 could accomplish it only by supposing the Reader (when he first opens it,) to be as ignorant of Cookery, —as I was when I first thought of writing on the subject.* | I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow-creatures ;——-by a careful attention to the directions herein given, the most ignorant may easily learn to prepare Food, not only in an agreeable and wholesome, but in an elegant and economical manner. This task seems to have been left for me, and I have endeavoured to collect and communicate in the clearest and most intelligible manner, the whole of the heretofore abstruse Mysteries of the Culinary Art, which are herein, I hope, so plainly developed, that the most inexperienced student in the occult Art of Cookery, may work from my Receipts with the utmost facility. I was. perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty of teach- * “ De toutes les Connoissances nécessaires 4 Vhumanité souf-- frante, la plus agréable, la plus importante a la conservation des hommes, et ala perpétuité de toutes les jouissances de la nature, c’est la parfaite connoissance des alimens destinés & former notre constitu- tion, a fortifier tous nos membres, 4 ranimer ces organes destinés & la perfection des sens, et 4 étre les médiateurs des talens, de l’esprit, du génie, &c. &e. ““C’est du suc exprimé de nos fluides alimentaires, qu’est formé le tissu de notre fréle machine ; e’est au chyle qui en provient, que: notre sang, nos chairs, nos nerfs, nos organes, et tous nos sens, doi- vent leur existence et leur geese ’ » INTRODUCTION. = ing those who are entirely unacquainted with the subject. and of explaining my ideas effectually by mere Receipts, to those who never shook hands with a Stewpan. In my anxiety to be readily understood, — I have been under the necessity of occasionally repeating the same directions in different parts of the book, but I would rather — _ be censured for repetition than for obscurity, — and hope not to be accused of Affectation, while my intention is Perspicuity. | ‘ Our neighbours in France are so justly famous for their skill in the affairs of the Kitchen, that the adage says, “ As many Frenchmen as many Cooks ;” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious Wines, and seducing Liqueurs offering every temptation to render drunkenness. delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a “ rara avis.” _ They know how, so easily, to keep Life in sufficient re- pair by good eating, that they require little or no screwing up with liquid Stimuli. — This accounts for that “‘ toujours gat,” and happy equilibrium of the animal spirits which they enjoy with more regularity than any people : — their elastic Stomachs, unimpaired by Spirituous Liquors, digest vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable, by cooking it sufficiently, — wisely con- triving to get half the work of the Stomach done by Fire and Water, till “¢ The tender morsels on the palate melt, ‘s ‘ And all the force of Cookery is felt.” See Nos. 5 and 238, &c. The cardinal virtues of Cookery, ‘ CLEANLINESS, FRU— GALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PALATEABLENESS,” pre- side over each preparation; for I have not presumed to insert a single composition, without previously obtaining the “ imprimatur” of an enlightened and indefatigable “COMMITTEE OF TASTE,” (composed of thorough- bred GRANDS GouURMANDs of the first magnitude,) whose cordial co-operation I cannot too highly praise ; and here do I most gratefully record the unremitting zeal they mani-- fested during their arduous progress. of proving the respec-. tive Recipes,——they were so truly philosophically and. 4 INTRODUCTION. disinterestedly regardless of the wear and tear of teeth and stomach, that their Labour — appeared a Pleasure to them. — Their laudable perseverance has enabled me to give the inexperienced Amateur an unerring Guide how to excite as much pleasure-as possible on the Palate, and occasion as little trouble as possible to the Principal Vis- cera, and has hardly been exceeded by those determined spirits who lately in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme of temperature, &c. in spite of Whales, Bears Icebergs, and Starvation. Every attention has been paid in directing the propor- tions of the following Compositions, not merely to make them inviting to the Appetite, but agreeable and useful to the Stomach—nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting. I have written for those who make Nourishment the chief end of Eating,* and do not desire to provoke Appe- « * J wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mortals, in as easy and simple a manner as it is in ‘* the Cooking Animals in the Moon,’ who ‘* lose no time at their meals ; but open their left side, and place the whole quantity at once in their stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next month, for they never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a year.”? — See Baron MUNCHAUSEN’S Travels,-p. 188. Pleasing the Palate is the main end in most books of Cookery, but it is my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome; for, after all, however the hale Gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion, the latter is the chief concern; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating as to think of no other, still the care cf his Health becomes part of that ; if he is sick he cannot relish his Food. “The term Gourmand or EptcuRE has been strangely perverted ; it has been conceived synonymous with a Glutton, * né pour la di- gestion,’ who will eat as long as he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, nor leave his cup while he can lift it; or like the great eater of Kent whom FuLLeER places among his Worthies, and tells us that he did eat with ease thirty dozens of Pigeons at one meal; at another, fourscore Rabbits and eighteen Yards of Black Pudding, London Measure !—ora fastidious Appetite, only to be excited by fan- tastic Dainties, as the brains of Peacocks or Parrots, the tongues of Thrushes or Nightingales, or the teats of a lactiferous Sow. ‘* In the acceptation which I give to the term EpicuRE, it means only the person who has good sense and good taste enough to wish to have his food cooked according to scientific principles; that is to say, so prepared that the palate be not offended—that it be rendered easy INTRODUCTION. 5 tite beyond the powers and necessities of Nature ; — pro- ceeding, however, on the purest Epicurean principles of indulging the Palate as far as it can be done without in- jury or offence to the Stomach, and forbidding* nothing but what is absolutely unfriendly to Health. ——*“‘ That which is not good, is not delicious To a well-govern’d and wise agen ”___ MiLTON. This is by no means so difficult a task as some gloomy philosophers (uninitiated in Culinary Science) have tried to make the world believe — who seem to have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that is Nice must be noxious ;—and that every thing that is Nasty is wholesome. *¢ How charming is Divine Philosophy ! - Not harsh, and crabbed, as dull fools suppose, . But musical as is Apollo’s lute, “And a perpetual feast of nectar’d sweets, Where no crude surfeit reigns.” Mi. Ton. _ of solution in the Stomach, and ultimately contribute to Health ; exciting him as an animal to the vigorous enjoyment of those recrea tions and duties, physical and intellectual, which constitute the hap- piness 4nd dignity of hisnature.’’ For this illustration I am indebted to my scientific friend Apicius Celius, Jun. with whose erudite ob- servations several pages of this work are enriched, to which I have affixed the signature A. C., Jun. * “© Although AiR is more immediately necessary to life than Foon, the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance ; it admits certainly of great variety, and a choice is.more fr equently i in our power. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been re commended as most conducive to Health ; but it would be more bene- ficial to mankind if we could shew them that a pleasant and varied diet was equally consistent with health, as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the Miller of Essex. These and other abstemious people who, having experienced the greatest extremities of bad health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simple diet ; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former sufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere - in so strict a course of abstinence, which persons who are in health and have no such apprehension could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue. “Tn all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human nature; the desires and appetites of mankind must, to a cer- tain degree, be " gratified, and the man who wishes to be most useful will imitate the indulgent Parent, who, whilst he endeavours to pro- mote the true interests of his children, allows them the full enjoyment - 6 INTRODUCTION. Worthy William Shakespeare declared he never found a philosopher who could endure the Toothache patiently,— ‘the Editor protests that he has not yet overtaken one who did not love a Feast. uy Those Cynical Slaves who are so silly as to suppose it unbecoming a wise man to indulge in the common comforts of Life, should be answered in the words of the French - philosopher. ‘ Hey— What, do you Philosophers eat -dainties ?” said a gay Marquess. ‘* Do you think,” replied Descartes, “‘ that God made good things only for Fools?” Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void of understanding, is an Epicure in his own way — the Epi- eures in boiling of Potatoes are innumerable, — the perfec- ‘tion of all enjoyment depends on the perfection of the facul- ties of the Mind and Body, therefore—the Temperate Man as the greatest Epicure —and the only true Voluptuary. THe PLEASURES OF THE TaBLeE, have been highly ap- preciated and carefully cultivated in all Countries and in all Ages,* — and in spite of all the Stoics, every one will allow they are the first and the last we enjoy, — and those we taste the oftenest, — above a Thousand times in a Year, every Year of our Lives ! Tue Stomacu is the mainspring of our System, — if it be not sufficiently wound up to warm the Heart and sup- port the Circulation, — the whole business of Life will, in proportion, be ineffectively performed, — we can neither Think with precision, — Walk with vigour, — Set down with comfort, — nor Sleep with tranquillity. There would be no difficulty in proving that it influ- ences (much more than people in general imagine) all our actions:—the destiny of Nations has often depended ‘ - of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in. If it ‘could be pointed out to mankind that some articles used as food were hurtful, while others were in their nature innocent, and that the datter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be dimduced to forego those which were hurtful, and confine themselves to those which were innocent.” — See Dr. Srarx’s Experiments on Diet, pp. 89 and 90. * See a curious account in Cours GasTRONOMIQUE, p. 145, and an Anacharsis’ Travels, Robinson, 1796. Vol. ii. p. 58, and Obs. and saote under No. 493. . INTRODUCTION: _ 7 upon the more or less laborious digestion of. a Prime Minister.* — See a very curious anecdote in the Memoirs of Count ZinzenporrFr in Dodsley’s Annual Register for 1762. 3d edition, p. 32. The philosopher Pythagoras seems to have been ex- tremely nice in eating; among his absolute injunctions to his disciples, he commands them to “ abstain from Beans.” This ancient Sage has been imitated by the learned who -haye discoursed on this subject since,— who are liberal of their negative, — and niggardly of their positive precepts— in the ratio, that it is easier to tell you not to do this, than to teach you how to do that. Our great English moralist Dr. 8. Jounson, his bio- grapher Boswell tells us, ‘‘ was a man of very nice discern- ment in the science of Cookery,” and talked of good eating with uncommon satisfaction. ‘‘ Some people,” said he, “ have a foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to ‘ mind what they eat; for my part, 1 mind my Belly very studi- ously and very carefully, and I look upon it that he who does not mind his Belly, will hardly mind any thing else.” The Dr. might have said, cannot mind any thing else — the energy of our Brains is sadly dependent on the be- haviour of our Bowrist — those who say, Tis no matter what we eat or what we drink, — may as well say, "Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink. The following Anecdotes I copy from BoswEt’s Life of JoHNsON. _* See the 2d, 3d, and 4th pages of Sir Wm. TEMPLE’s Essay on the Cure of the Gout by Moxa. a * He that would have a clear Head, must have a clean Sto. mach.” — Dr. CHEYNE on Health, 8vo. 1724, p- 34. i tt is sufficiently manifest how much uncomfortable feelings of the Bowels affect the Nervous System, and how immediately and completely the general disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation.”’— p- 53. *¢ We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the Nervous System, whilst there is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive’ no permanent source of strength but from the digestion of our food, it becomes important on this account that we should attend to its ‘quantity, quality, and the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its aie digestion.””--ABERNETHY’ s Sur. Obs. Svo. 1817, p. 65, 8 INTRODUCTION: Johnson. —** I could write a better Book of Cookery than has ever yet been written ; —it should be a book on’. philosophical principles. —I would tell what is the best’ Butcher’s Meat, ——the proper seasons of different Veget- ables, — and then, how to roast, and boil, and to com- pound.” Dilly. —“ Mrs. Glasse’s Cookery, which is the best, was written by Dr. Hri.” Johnson. —‘* Well, Sir —this shews how much better the subject of Cookery* may be treated by a Philoso- pher ;+ — but you shall see what a book of Cookery I shalf make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly for the Copyright.” * ¢¢ Tf Science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, it must be in this department ; the real comfort of the majority of men in this country is sought for at their own fire-side; how desirable does it then become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the means of Philosophy to increase Domestic Happi-- ness !”__ SY LVESTER’s Philosophy of Domestic Economy, 4to. 1819, ak fp : ++ The best Books of Cookery have been written by Physicians. — Sir KEnELME Dicay — Sir THEODORE MAYERNE. —See the last quarter of page 304 of vol. x. of the Phil. Trans. for 1675.— Pro- fessor BraDLEY—Dr. Hirt—Dr. Le Cointe—Dr. Hunter, &e. ; “To understand the THEORY OF COOKERY, we must attend to the action of heat upon the various constituents of alimentary sub- stances as applied directly and indirectly through the medium of some fluid, in the former way as exemplified.”” In the processes of Roast- Inc and Boriine, the chief constituents of animal substances undergo the following changes—the Fibrine is corrugated, the Albumen coagulated, the Gelatine and Osmazome rendered more soluble in water, the Fat liquefied, and the Water evaporated. ; “* If the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes first brown, and then scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibre becomes opaque, shorter, firmer, and drier; the tendons less opaque, softer, and gluy; the fat is either melted out, or rendered semi-transparent. Animal fluids become more trans- parent: the albumen is coagulated and separated, and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome. “. *¢ Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the imme- diate object of all Cookery, the meat loses the vapid nauseous smell and taste peculiar to its raw state, and it becomes savoury and grateful. ‘* Heat. applied through the intervention of boiling oil, or melted fat, as in Fry1NG, produces nearly the same changes ; as the heat is INTRODUCTIONS 9 . Miss Seward. —‘‘ That would be. Broek with the distaff indeed !” Johnson.—‘* No, Madam; Rome can spin very well,— but they cannot make a good book of a RE > See vol. ii. p. 311. | Mr. B. adds, ‘ I never Anew a man who relished good eating more than he did: when at Table, he was totally absorbed in the business of the moment: nor would he, unless in very high company, say one word, or even pay the least attention to what was said by others, until he had satisfied his Appetite.” - The peculiarities of his Constitution were as pred as éinse of his Character:— Luxury and Intemperance are relative terms, depending on other circumstances than mere quantity and quality. Nature gave him an excellent Palate, and a craving Appetite, and his intense Applica- tion rendered large supplies of nourishment absolutely ne- cessary to recruit “his exhausted spirits. The fact is, this great Man had found out that hire and Intellectual Vigour,* are much more entirely dependent upon each other than is commonly understood ; especially in those constitutions, whose digestive and chylopoietic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune, or absorb the ‘‘ pabulum vite” indolently and imperfectly, — with such, it is only now and then that the “ sensorzwm .com- sufficient to evaporate the water, and to induce a degree of scorch- ing. But when water is the medium through which heat is applied— as in Boirine, STEwine, and Baxrna, the effects are somewhat different, as the heat never exceeds 212°, which is not sufficient to commence the process of browning or decomposition, and the soluble constituents are removed by being dissolved in the water, forming soup or broth ; or, if the direct contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved i in the juices of the meat, and separate in the form of Gravy.” Vide Supplement to Encyclop. Brit. Edin. vol. iv. p. 344, the Article ** Foop,”’ to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on the subject we have seen. ““ Health, Beauty, Strength, and Spirits, and I might add all. the faculties of the Mind, depend upon the Organs of the Body ;. when these are in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the contrary when they are OES or diseased.’? — Dr. Capoagan on Nursing Children, 8vo. 1757, p. 5. B2 20 INTRODUCTION. smune” vibrates with the full tone of accurately consider- ‘ative, or creative enerzy. ‘‘ His favourite dainties were, — a leg of Pork boiled till it dropped from the bone, a veal-— pie, with plums and sugar, or the outside eut of a salt ‘buttock of beef. With regard to Drink, his liking was for the strongest, as it was not the Flavour, but the Effect that he desired.” Mr. Smale’s Account of Dr. Johnson’s — Journey into Wales, 1816, p. 174. - Thus does the Heatru always, and very often the Lirz of Invalids, and those who have weak and infirm Sro- macHS, depend upon the care and skill of the Cook, Our Forefathers were so sensible of this, that in days of ‘Yore no man of consequence thought of making a day’s journey without taking his “ Macisrer CoquoruM” with him. _ The rarity of this talent in a high degree is so well wuderstood, that besides very considerable pecuniary com- pensation, his Majesty’s first and second Cooks* are now - squires by their office; we have every reason to suppose they were persons of equal dignity heretofore. . In Dr. Pegge’s “ Forme of Cury,” 8vo. London, 1780, we read, that when Cardinal Otto, the Pope’s Legate, was at Oxford, A.D. 1248, his brother officiated as “ MaGisTEer Coguineg.” | This important post has always been held as a situation of high trust and confidence; and the “‘ Macnus Coquus,” Anglice, the Master Kitchener, has, time immemorial, been an Officer of considerable dignity in the palaces of Princes. ~ The Cook in Puautus (Pseudol) is called “ Hominum servatorem,” the preserver of mankind ; and by Mercier “un Médecin qui guérit radicalement deux maladies mor- €elles, la Faim et la Soif.” - The Norman Conqueror Wr1L114m bestowed seyeral por- fons of Land on these highly favoured domestics, the “« CoquornuM Preposiros,” and “ Coquus Rreius;” a * “* We have some good families in England of the name of Cook or Coke. Iknow not what they may think; but they may depend upon it, they all originally sprang from real and professional Cooks ; and they need not be ashamed of their extraction, any more than the Parkers, Butlers, &¢.”——Dr. PEGGE’s Forme of Cury, p. 162. INTRODUCTION... 14 ‘Manor was bestowed on Robert Argyllon the “‘Granp Queux,” to be held by the following service. See that venerable Record the Doomsday Book. | _ © Addington -— Co. Surrey. ‘*¢ Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate of Land in Ad- dington in the County of Surrey, by the service of making one mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our Lord the Kine, on the day of his coronation, called De la Groute,” i, ec, a kind of Plum porndge, or Water-gruel with Plums init. This dish is still served up at the Royal Table at Coronations, .y the Lord of the said Manor of Addington. At the Coronation of King George IV., Court of Claims, July 12, 1820: The petition of the Archbishop of Canrersury, which was presented by Sir G. Nayler, claiming to per- form the service of presenting a dish of De la Groute to ‘the King at the banquet, was considered by the Court, and decided to be allowed.” A good Dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life;—-and as the practice of Cookery is attended with so many discouraging difficulties,* so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who encounter them, to pro- cure us pleasure, and to reward their attention by rendering their situation every way as comfortable and agreeable as wecan. He who preaches Integrity to those in the Kitchen, (see “ Advice to Cooks”) may be permitted to recommend Liberality to ‘those in the Parlour; they are indeed the sources of each other. Depend upon it, ‘‘ True Self-Love * Tt is said, there are SEVEN chances against even the most simple ‘dish being presented to the Mouth in absolute perfection; for in- stance, A LEG oF MurrTon. ast. — The Mutton must be good. 2d.— Must have been kept a good time. 3d.— Must be roasted at a good fire. 4th. — By a good Cook. 5th. — Who must be in good temper. - 6th. — With all this felicitous combination you must have good luck, and 7th. — Good Appetite. — The Meat, and the mouths which are to eat it, must be ready for action at the same moment. 42: INTRODUCTION: : and Social are the same ;” “ Do as you would be done by ;” give those you are obliged to trust-—— every inducement to be honest, and no temptation to play tricks. | When you consider that a good servant eats* no more than a bad one — how much waste is occasioned by pro- visions being dressed in a slovenly and unskilful manner— and how much’ a good Cook (to whom the conduct of the Kitchen is confided) can save you by careful manage- ment—no Housekeeper will hardly deem it an unwise _ speculation, —it is certainly an amiable experiment,—to invite the Honesty and Industry of domestics, by setting them an example of Lzberality, —at least, shew them, that “‘ according to their Pains will be their Gains.” Avoid all approaches towards familiarity,—which to a proverb is accompanied by Contempt, and soon breaks the neck of Obedience. A Lady gave us the following account of the progress ay a Favourite : “The First year, She was an excellent Servant; the Second, a kind Mistress; the Third, an intolerable Tyrant; at whose dismissal, every creature about my house rejoiced heartily.” However, Servants are more likely to be praised into good conduct than scolded out of bad; always commend them when they do right—to cherish the desire of pleas- ing in them, you must shew them that you are pleased :— ‘* Be to their Faults a little blind, And to their Virtues very kind.” J * To guard against “‘ la gourmandise”’ of the second table, ‘‘ pro- vide each of your servants with a large pair of spectacles of the highest magnifying power, and never permit them to sit down to any meal without wearing them; they are as necessary, and as useful in a Kitchen as Pots and Kettles: they will make a Lark look as large as a Fow., a Goose as big as a Swan, a Leg of Mutton as large as a Hind Quarter of Beef; a twopenny loaf as large as a quartern;” and as Philosophers assure you that Pain even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same of Hunger ; and if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food, imagines, by the aid of these glasses, that he has eaten three pounds, his hunger will be as fully satisfied—and the Addition to your Optician’s Account, will soon be overpaid. by the Subtraction from your Butcher’s and Baker’s. INTRODUCTION. 13. By such conduct, ordinary Servants may be converted into Good ones ; — few are so hardened, as not to feel gra- tified when they are kindly and liberally treated. It is a good Maxim to select Servants not younger than THIRTY,—Jefore that age, however comfortable you may endeavour to make them, “their want of experience, and the Hope of something still better , prevents their being satisfied with their present state.— A fter, they have had the benefit of experience; if they are tolerably comfortable, they will endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master, for Fear they may change for the worse. Life may indeed be very fairly divided into the seasons of Hore and Fear. In Yourn, we hope every thing may be right ;—7n Act, we fear every thing will be wrong. Do not discharge a good servant for a shght offence— *¢ Bear and forbear, thus preached the stoic sages, And in two words, include the sense of pages.” ——PoPE. HuMAN NATURE IS THE SAME IN ALL STATIONS; if you can convince your Servants that you have a generous and considerate regard for their Health and Comfort, why should You imagine that They will be insensible to the good they receive ? Impose no commands but what are reasonable — nor re- ' prove but with justice and temper—the best way to en- sure which is, never to Lecture them till at least ONE DAY AFTER they have offended you. If they have any particular Hardship. to endure in your service, let them See that you are concerned for the necessity of imposing it. If they are stck,—remember you are their Patron as well as their Master remit their labour, and give them all the assistance of Food, Physic, and every comfort in your power.— Tender assidurty about an Invalid rs half a Cure ; it is a balsam to the Mind, which has a most powerful effect on the Body, soothes the sharpest Pains, and strengthens beyond the richest Cordial. The following estimate of rue Expenses oF a FrE- MALE SERVANT, was sent to us by. an experienced Housekeeper. a INTRODUCTION. They are often expected to find their own Tza and Sucar,—which with sober servants is the most comfort- able meal they have, and will require :— : Le. 8 vil Half a pound of Tea per month.......++-+ Ditto ditto Sugar, per week ........:...00+ ep on amennaite3 SR 4 pair of Shoes, per GRNUWM ..,.2.++0cnearenanseoes onogeenes 018 6 _ 2 pair of black worsted Stockings .............+ prvrriEe Me. | 2 pair of white cotton Citto ......0.-0+ vc oieitbos sibaat netre 19 12 2 Gowns........ cc seaatia oaigitciate aka phe neinactead thease ok ee. ae 6 Aprons——4 check and 2 white..........-sseccerseegeeeue 010 6 GLA. » 3 oioiooh site oS sian. n case aahs sttepeeneee eset ae ann 010 6 A Bonnet, a Shawl or Cloak, Pattens, &c. Ribands, Handkerchiefs, Pins, Needles, Threads, Thimbles, Scissors, and other working tools,—Stays, Stay-tape, and Buckram, Ke. Bute ...<:-ncnc0e nach cate aenaints a oe £9 8 0 Besides these, she has to make a shift and buy petti- coats, pockets, and many other articles. We appeal to the neatest managing and most economical Housewife, to inform us how this can be done, and how much a poor Girl will have remaining to place to her ac- count in the Savinc Banx —for help in Sickness— when out of Place—and for her supportin Old Age. Here is the source of the swarms of distressed Females which we daily ‘meet in our streets. _ Ye, who think that to protect and encourage Virtue is the best preventive from Vice, reward your Female Ser- vants liberally. Cuarity should begin at HOME— Prevention is pre- ferable to Cure—but I have no objection to see your names ornamenting the Lists of Subscribers to Foundling Hospitals and Female Penitentiaries.* Gentle Reader, * Much real reformation might be effected, and most grateful ser- vices obtained, if families which consist wholly of females, would take servants recommended from the MaGDALEN — PENITENTIARY — or GuARDIAN — who seek to be restored to virtuous society. ** Female Servants who pursue an honest course — have to travel in their peculiar orbit, through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhaps any other class of people in civilised life, _—they should be treated with something like Christian kindness ;— for want of this——a fault which might at the time have been easily amended — has become the source of interminable sorrow.” | INTRODUCTION. a5 for a definition of the word ‘* Charity” let me refer you to the 13th Chapter of St. Paul’s First Epistle to the Corin- thians. | | ‘< To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and pesti- dential exhalations of the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of the heartiest, the glare of a scorching fire, and the smoke so baneful to the eyes and the complexion, are continual and inevitable dangers: and a Cook must live in the midst of them, as a soldier on the field of ‘battle surrounded by bullets, and bombs, and ConcReve’s rockets ; with this only difference, that for the first, every day is a fighting day, that her warfare is almost always without glory, and most praiseworthy achievements pass not only without reward, but frequently without thanks — for the most consummate cook is, alas! seldom noticed by the master, or heard of by the guests; who, while they are eagerly devouring his Turtle, and drinking his wine, care very little who dressed the one, or sent the other.” — Al- manach des Gourmands. This. observation applies especially to the Seconp Coox, or first Kitchen Mavd, in large families, who have by far the hardest place in the house, and are worse paid, and truly verify the old adage, “ the more work, the less wages.” If there is any thing right, the cook has the praise—— when there is any thing wrong, as surely the Kitchen Maid has the blame.. Be it known, then, to honest Jonn Butt, that this humble domestic is expected by the Cook to take the entire management of all Roasts, Borus, Fisu, and VecetabLes—i.e. the principal part of an Englishman’s denner. “* By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known to the writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been in some situations, would have been literally Outcasts.” A most laudable Society for the ENcouRAGEMEN'’t of FEMALE SERVANTS, by a gratuitous Registry, and by Rewards, was instituted in 1813. _ Plans of which may be had gratis at the Society’s House, No. 10, Hatton Garden. The above is an extract from the Rev. H. G. Wat- KINS’s Hints to Heads of Families, a work well deserving the atten- tive consideration of inexperienced housekeepers, and from pp. 13, 96, and 98, of which the above is an extract. 16 ' INTRODUCTION. The Master, who wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table regularly well served in the best style, must treat his. Cook as his friend—-watch over her health * with the ten- * The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that. his Cook’s health be preserved: one hundredth part of the attention ‘usually bestowed on his dog, or his horse, will suffice to regulate her animal system. . * Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen ; the grand scene of action, the fire-place, should be placed where it may receive plenty of light; hitherto the contrary has pre- vailed, and the poor Cook is continually basted with her own per- spiration.”— A. C. Jun. ‘* The most experienced artists in Cookery cannot be certain of their work without tasting — they must be incessantly tasting. The spoon of a good Cook is continually passing from the stewpan to his tongue; nothing but frequent tasting his Sauces, Ragotits, &c. can discover to him what progress they have made, or enable him to season a Soup with any certainty of success; his Palate, therefore, must be in the highest state of excitability, that the least fault may be perceived in an instant. ‘** But, alas! the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves, the necessity of frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to moisten a parched throat; in short, every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiate the organs of taste # the palate becomes blunted ; its quick- ness of feeling and delicacy, on which the sensibility of the organs of taste depends, grows daily more obtuse ; and in a short time the gus- tatory nerve becomes quite unexcitable. ‘* Ir you FIND youR CooK NEGLECT HIS BUSINESS— that his Ragotts are too highly spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of the * haut goit,’ you may be sure that his Index of Taste wants regulating — his palate has lost its sensibility, and it is high time to call in the assistance of the apothecary. “< ¢ Purger souvent’ is the grand maxim in all Kitchens where de Maitre d’ Hotel has any regard for the reputation of his table. Les Bons Hommes de Bouche —submit to the operation without a murmur; to bind others, it should be made the first condition in hiring them. Those who refuse, prove they were not born to become Masters of their Art: and their indifference to Fame will rank them, as they deserve, among those Slaves who pass their lives in as much obscurity as their own stewpans.”’ , To the preceding observations from the “* Almanach des Gour- mands,’? we may add that the Mouthician will have a still better chance of success, if he can prevail on his master to observe the same régime which he orders for his Cook, or, instead of endeavouring to awaken an idle Appetite, by reading the Index to a Cookery Book, or an additional use of the pepper-box and salt-cellar — rather seek it from Abstinence or Exercise ; —the philosophical Gourmand wilt INTRODUCTION. 17 derest care, and especially be sure her Taste does not suffer from her Stomach being deranged by Bilious Attacks. Besides understanding the management of the Spit, the Stewpan, and the Rolling Pin, a CompLere Coox must know how to go to Market, write legibly, and keep- Accounts accurately. In well-regulated Private Families the most convenient custom seems to be, that the Cook keep a house-book, containing an account of the miscellaneous articles she _ purchases; and the Butcher’s, Baker’s, Butterman’s, Green- grocer’s, Fishmonger’s, Milkman’s, and Washing Bills are brought in every Monday; these it is the duty of the Cook to examine, before she presents them to her employer every Tuesday morning to be discharged. The advantage of paying such bills weekly is incalcu- lable ; among others—the constant check it affords against any excess beyond the sum allotted for defraying them, and the opportunity it gives of correcting increase of ex- pense in one week by a prudent retrenchment in the next. “‘ If you would live even with the world, calculate your expenses at Half your Income —if you would grow Rich, at One Third.” It is an excellent plan to have a table oF rules for regu- lating the ordinary expenses of the Family, in order’ to check any innovation or excess’ which otherwise might be introduced unawares, and derange the proposed “distri- bution of the annual revenue. To understand the Economy of Household Affairs is. not only essential to a Woman’s proper and pleasant per- formance of the duties of a Wife and a Mother, but is in- dispensable to the Comfort, Respectability, and general Welfare of all Families—whatever be their Circum- stances. The Editor has employed some leisure hours in collect- consider that the edge of our Appetite is generally keen, in propor- tion to the activity of our other habits; let him attentively peruse our “ Peptic Precepts,” &c. which briefly explain the Art of refreshing the Gustatory Nerves, and of invigorating the whole: System. See in the following Chapter on InviraTions To Din-. NER—A Recipe to make Forty PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS. 48. INTRODUCTION. ing Practical Hints for Instructing Inexperienced House- keepers in the useful Art of Providing Comfortably for a Family ; which is displayed so plainly and so particularly, that a Young Lady may learn the delectable Arcana of Domestic Affairs, in as little time as is usually devoted to directing the position of her Hands on a Piano-forte, or of her Feet in a Quadrille—this will enable her to make the Cage of Matrimony as comfortable as the Net of Courtship was charming. For this purpose he has contrived A HovsEKkErrPEr’s LEDGER, A Plain and Easy Plan of Keeping Accurate Accounts of the Expenses of Housekeeping, which with only One Hour’s ATTENTION IN A WEEK, will enable you to balance all such Accounts with the utmost Exactness; an acceptable acquisition to All, who admit that ORDER AND ECONOMY ARE THE BASIS OF COMFORT AND INDEPENDENCE. Published by Guo. B. Wnirraxer, Ave Maria Lane, Price, Bound, with Ruled Pages for Accounts, &e. 3s. It is almost impossible for a Cook in a large Family, to attend to the business of the Kitchen with any certainty of perfection if employed in other household concerns. It is a service of such importance, and so diffieult to perform even tolerably well, that it is sufficient to engross the entire attention of one person. “If we take a review of the Qualifications which are’ endispensable in that highly estimable domestic, a Goov Cook, we shall find that very few deserve that name.”* * “¢ She must be quick and strong of sight; her hearing most acute, that she may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble, although they be closely covered, and that she may be alarmed before the pot boils over; her auditory nerve ought to discriminate (when several saucepans are in operation at the same time) the sim- © INTRODUCTION. .- . 19 * The majority of those who set up for Professors of this _ Art are of mean ability, selfish, and pilfering every thing _-they can; others are indolent ‘and insolent. Those who really understand their Business (which are by far the smallest number), are too often either ridiculously saucy,. or insatiably thirsty; in a word, a good subject of this class is a rara avis indeed !” “< God sends Meat,”—who sends Cooks ?* the proverb has long saved us the trouble of guessing. Vide Almanach des Gourmands, p- 83. Of what value then is not this book ?—which will render every person of common sense a good Cook in as little time as it can be read through attentively. If the Masters and Mistresses of Families will some- times condescend to make an amusement of this Art, they will escape numberless disappointments, &c. which those who will not, must occasionally inevitably suffer, to the de- triment of both their Health and their Fortune. I did not presume to offer any observations of my own, till I had read all that I could find written'on the subject, and submitted (with no small pains) to a patient and attentive consideration of every preceding work, relating to culinary concerns, that I could meet with. These books vary very little from each other; except in the preface, they are ‘¢ Like in all else as one Egg to another.” mering of one, the ebullition of another, and the full-toned wabbling of a third. “* Tt is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly susceptible of the various effluvia, that her nose may distinguish the perfection of aromatic ingredients, and that in animal substances it shall evince a suspicious accuracy between tenderness and putre- faction ; above all, her olfactories should be trenoblingly alive to mustiness and empyreuma, ** It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire and judge of the Cook; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid organs it will be seen, that their perfection is indispensable.”’— A, Cus Jun. * A facetious Gourmand suggests that the old story of “ lighting a Candle to the Devil’? probably arose from this adage-—-and was an offering presented to his infernal Majesty by some Epicure who was in want of a Cook. 20 INTRODUCTION. << Ab uno, disce omnes,” cutting and pasting have been much oftener employed than the Pen and Ink: any one who has occasion to refer to two or three of them, wilk find the Receipts almost always ‘‘ verbatim et literatim ;” equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant, and use- less to those who are acquainted with the business of the Kitchen. I have perused not fewer than 250 of these volumes. During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress through these books, few of which afford the germ of. a single “idea, I have often wished that the authors of them | had been satisfied with giving us the results of their own — practice and experience— instead of idly perpetuating the errors, prejudices, and plagiarisms, of their predecessors, — the strange, and unaccountable, and uselessly extravagant farragos, and heterogeneous compositions, which fill their pages, are combinations no rational being would ever think of either dressing or eating; and without ascertaining the practicability of preparing the receipts, and their. fitness for food when done, they should never have ventured to recommend them to others:—the reader of them will often put the same quere, as Jeremy, in Congreve’s comedy of ‘* Love for Love,” when Valentine observes, “ There’s a page doubled down in Epictetus that is a feast for an Emperor. —Jer. Was Epictetus a real Cook, or did he only write Receipts?” Half of the modern Cookery books are made up with » pages cut out of obsolete works, such as the ‘‘ Chovse Manual of Secrets,” the ‘“‘ True Gentlewoman’s Delight,” &c. of as much use, in this Age of refinement, as the fol- lowing curious passage from “‘ The Accomplished Lady’s Rich Closet of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentlewoman’s Delightful Companion,” 12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7. page 42; which I have inserted in a note* to give the -* “ A Gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home, must ob- serve to keep her body straight, and lean not by any means with her elbows, nor by ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite; talk not when you have meat in your mouth; and do not smack like a Pig, nor venture to eat Spoonmeat so hot that the tears stand in your Eyes, which is as unseemly as the Gentlewoman who pretended INTRODUCTION. 21 ‘geader a notion of the barbarous manners of the 16th century, with the addition of the Arts of the Confectioner,— the Brewer,—the Baker,—the Distiller,—the Gardener,— the Clearstarcher,—and the Perfumer,—and how to make Pickles,—Puff Paste ,—Butter,—Blacking, &c.—together with my Lady Bountiful’s sovereign remedy for an inward Bruise, and other ever-failing Nostrums—Dr. Killemquick’s wonder-working Essence, and fallible Elixir which cures _ all manner of incurable maladies directly minute—Mrs. Notable’s instructions how to make soft pomatum, that will soon make more hair grow upon thy Head, “ than Dobbin, thy thill-horse, hath upon his tail,” and many others equally znvaluable !!!—the proper appellation for which would be “‘ a dangerous budget of vulgar errors,” concluding with a bundle of extracts from ‘ the Gardener’s Calendar,” and “‘ the Publican’s Daily Companion.” | Thomas Carter, in the preface to his ‘* City and Country Cook,” London, 1738, says, ‘‘ What I have published is almost the only book, one or two excepted, which of late years has come into the world, that has been the result of the author’s own practice and experience; for though very few eminent practical Cooks have ever cared to publish — what they knew of the art, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small premium from a Bookseller, to lend their names to performances in this art, unworthy their owning.” Robert May, in the introduction to his “ Accomplished Cook,” 1665, says, ‘“‘ To all honest and well-intending per= 40 have as little a Stomach as she had a Mouth, and therefore would not swallow her Peas by spoonsful; but took them one by one, and cut them in two before she would eat them. It is very uncomely to drink so large a draughi that your Breath is almost gone—and are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself—throwing down your liquor as into a Funnel is an action fitter for a Juggler thana Genitle- woman: thus much for your Observations in general; if I am de- fective as to particular s, your own pr udence, discretion, and curious observations will supply.”’ *¢ In CaRvVING at your own Fable, distribute the best pieces first, and it will appear very comely and decent to use a Fork; so touch no piece of Meat without it.” ‘* Mem. The English are indebted to Tom Coryar for intro- ducing THE Fork, for which they called him Furcifer.’’—See his Crudities, vol. i. p. 106.— Edit. 1776, 8vo. 22 ‘INTRODUCTION. sons of my profession, and others, this book cannot but be acceptable, as it plainly and profitably discovers the mystery of the whole art; for which, though I may be envied by some, that only value their private interests ‘above posterity and the public good; yet (he adds), God and my own conscience would not permit me to bury these, ‘my experiences, with my silver hairs in the grave.” Those high and mighty Masters and Mistresses of the Alimentary Art, who call themselves “ Profess” Ceoks, are said to be very jealous and mysterious beings: and that if in a long life of laborious Stove work, they have found out a few useful secrets, they seldom impart to the public the fruits of their experience; but sooner than divulge their discoveries for the benefit and comfort of their fellow- creatures, these silly selfish beings will rather run the risk of a reprimand from their employers, and will sooner spoil a good Dinner, than suffer their fellow-servants to see how they dress it!!! The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never more extremely absurd than in their unprofitable parsi- mony of what is of no use to them, but would be of actual value to others,—who in return would willingly repay them _ tenfold ;—— however, I hope I may be permitted to quote in defence of these culinary Professors, a couple of lines of a favourite old song: “¢ Tf you search the world round, each profession, youll find, Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery* they call.”” ° * % Almost all Arts and Sciences are more or less encumbered with vulgar errors and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance have - unfortunately sufficient influence to preserve, by help (or hinderance) of mysterious, undefinable, and not seldom unintelligible, technical terms — Anglicé, nicknames —— which, instead of enlightening the subject it is professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate, serve but to shroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity; and, in general, so extravagantly fond are the professors of an art of keeping up all the pomp, circumstance, and mystery of it, and of preserving the accumulated prejudices of ages past undiminished, that one might fairly suppose those who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome these obstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were de- lighted with placing difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, on purpose to deter them from the pursuit ; and that they cannot bear others should climb the hill of knowledge by a INTRODUCTION. 23 My recerrpts are the results of experiments carefully ‘made, and accurately and circumstantially related ; rt The Time requisite for dressing being stated ; The Quantities of the various articles contained in each composition being carefully set down in Number, Weicut, and MrEasure. The Weicuts are Avoirdupois ; the Measure, Lyne’s graduated Glass, i.e. a Wine pint divided into sixteen ounces, and the Ounce into eight Drachms:—by a Wine-. glass is to be understood two ounces liquid measure ;— by a large or Table-Spoonful, half an ounce ;—by a small or Tea-Spoonful, a drachm, or half a quarter of an ounce,. i. e. nearly equal to two drachms avoirdupois. At Price’s glass warehouse, near Exeter Change, in the Strand, you may get measures divided into Tea and Table-Spoons.— No Cook should be without one, who wishes to be regular in her business. This precision has never before been attempted in Cookery books, but I found it indispensable from the im- possibility of guesszng the quantities intended by such obscure expressions as have been usually employed for this purpose in former works :— | For instance: a bit of this—a handful of that—a pinch of tother,—do ’em over with an Eyg,—and a sprinkle of salt,—a dust of flour,—_a shake of pepper,—a squeeze of lemon,—or a dash of vinegar, &c. are the constant phrases ; season it to your Palate, (meaning the Cook’s,) is another form of speech: now, if she has any,—it is very unlikely that it is in unison with that of her employers,—by con- tinually sipping piqguante relishes, it becomes blunted and. insensible, and loses the faculty of appreciating delicate flavours,—so that every thing is done at random. readier road than they themselves did: and such is /’esprit du corps, t as their predecessors supported themselves by serving it out gradatim et stillatim, and retailing with a sparing hand the informa- tion they so hardly obtained, they find it convenient to follow their example: and, willing to do as they have been done by, leave and bequeath the inheritance undiminished to those who may. succeed them.” — See p. 10, of Dr. Krtcu1nEr on Telescopes, 12mo. 1825, printed for Whittaker, Ave Maria Lane. 24 INTRODUCTION. These Culinary technicals* are so very differently understood by the learned who write them, and the un- learned who read them, and their “‘ rule of Thumb” is so extremely indefinite, that if the same dish be dressed’ by different persons, it will generally be so different, that nobody would imagine they had worked from the same directions, which will assist a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the Kitchen, no more than read- ing “ Robinson Crusoe” would enable a Sailor. to steer. safely from England to India. It is astonishing how cheap Cookery Books are held by ‘practical Cooks: when I applied to an experienced artist ‘to recommend me some books that would give me a notion of the rudiments of Cookery, he replied with a smile— <¢ You may read Don Quixote, or Peregrine Pickle, they are both very good books.” Careless expressions in Cookery are the more surprising, as the Confectioner is regularly attentive, in the descrip- tion of his preparations, to give the exact quantities, though his business, compared to- Cookery, is as unim- portant, as the Ornamental is inferior to the Useful. The maker of Blanc-mange, Custards, &c. and the end- Jess. and useless collection of puerile playthings for the palate (of First and Second childhood, for the Vigour of Manhood seeketh not to be sucking Sugar, or sipping Turtle,) is scrupulously exact, evento a grain, in his ingredients ; whilst Cooks are unintelligibly indefinite, although they are intrusted with the administration of our FOOD, upon the proper quality and preparation of which, all our powers of Body and Mind depend ;— their Energy, being amnvariably in the ratio of the performance of the resto- * © Tn the present language of Cookery, there has been a woful departure from the simplicity of our Ancestors,—such a farrago of un- appropriate and unmeaning terms, many corrupted from the French, others disguised from the Italian, some misapplied from the German, while many are a disgrace to the English. What can any person suppose to be the meaning of a Shoulder of Lamb in epigram, unless ‘it were a poor dish, for a Pennyless Poet? Aspect of fish, would appear calculated for an Astrologer ; and shoulder of mutton surprised, ‘designed for a Sheep-stealer.”— A. C. Jun. INTRODUCTION. 25 rative process, i. e. the quantity, quality, and perfect di- gestion of what we Eat and Drink. Unless the Stomach be in good humour, every part of ‘the machinery of Lzfe must vibrate with languor:—can we then be too attentive to its adjustment ?!! ¢ CULINARY CURIOSITIES. The following specimen of the unaccountably. whimsical Har. lequinade of Foreign Kitchens is from ‘“‘ La Chapelle’? Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, 1748. ** A Turkey,” in the shape of “‘ Football,” or “‘ a Hedge-hog.”? ‘¢ A Shoulder of Mutton,”’ in the shape of a ‘* Bee- Hive.” —“ Entrée of Pigeons,” ‘‘in the form of a Spider,” or Sun-Fashion, or “‘ in the form of a F'rog,”’ or, in ‘* the form of the Moon.’’— Or, “‘ to make a Pig taste like a Wild Boar;”’ take a living Pig, and let him swallow the following drink, viz. boil together in vinegar and water, some rosemary, thyme, sweet basil, bay leaves, and sage; when you have let him swallow this, immediately whip him to Death, and roast him forthwith. How “ to still a Cocke for a weak bodie that is con- sumed, — take a red Cocke that is not too olde, and beat him to death.”"—-See THE BooxE or CooKkRYE, very necessary for all such as delight therein. Gathered by A. W. 1591, p. 12. How to Roast a pound of BurTeER, curiously and well: and to farce (the culinary technical for to stuff) a boiled leg of Lamb with Red Her- rings and Garlic; with many other receipts of as high a relish, and ef as easy digestion as the Devil’s Venison, i. e. a roasted Tiger stuffed with tenpenny Nails, or the ‘‘ Bonne Bouche’? the Rareskin Rowskimowmowsky offered to Baron Munchausen, “ a fricassee of Pistols, with Gunpowder and Alcohol sauce.’’—See the Adventures of Baron Munchausen, 12mo. 1792, p. 200: and the horrible but authentic account of ARDESOIF, in MouBray’s Treatise on Poultry, 8vo. 1816, p. 18. But the most extraordinary of all the Culinary Receipts that have been under my eye, is the following diabolically cruel directions of Mizald, ‘‘how to roast and eat a Goose alive.” ** Take a GOOSE or a DUCK, or some such lively creature, (but a Goose is best of all for this purpose,) pull off all her feathers, only the head and neck must be spared: then make a fire round about her, not too close to her, that the smoke do not choke her, and that the fire may not burn her too soon: nor too far off, that she may not escape free ; within , the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots full of water, wherein salt and honey are mingled : and let there be set also chargers full of sodden Apples, cut into small pieces in the dish. The Goose Cc 26 INTRODUCTION: must be all larded, arid basted over with butter, to make her the: more fit to be eaten, and may roast the better: put then fire about her, but do not make too much haste, when as you see her begin to roast ; for by walking about, and flying here and there, being cooped in by the fire that stops her way out, the unwearied Goose is kept in; she will fall'to drink the water to quench her thirst and cool her heart, and all her body, and the Apple Sauce will make her dung and cleanse and empty her. And when she roasteth, and consumes in- wardly, always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge ; and when you see her giddy with running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moisture, and she is roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your guests, and she will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten up before she be dead; it is mighty pleasant to behold !!”-See WECKER’s Secrets of Nature, in folio, endo: 1660, pp. 148, 309.* ‘¢ We suppose Mr. Mizald om this receipt fiesae the istaher of his Infernal Majesty ; probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil ordered when he invited Nero and Caligula to a feast.” — A. C. Jun. This is also related in Baptista Porvra’s Natural Magicke, fol. 1658, p. 321. This very curious (but, not scarce) Book contains among other strange tricks and fancies of ‘“‘ the Olden Time,” direc- tions, ‘‘ how to Roast and Bott a fowl at the same time, so ‘that one half shall be Roasted and the other Bo1LED 3” and ‘ if you have a lacke of Cooks, how to persuade a Goose to roast himselfe ! 1? —See a second Act of the above Tragedy in page 80 of the Gentleman’s Magazine for January 1809. ' Many articles were in vogue in ‘the 14th century, which are now obsolete. We add the following specimens of THE CULINARY ai FAIRS OF Days or YORE. Sauce for.a Goose, A.D. 1381. ‘ Take a faire panne, and set hit under the Goose whill she rostes; and kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof, and put thereto a godele (good deal) of Wyn, and a litel vinegur, and verjus, ' and onyons mynced, or garlek; then take the gottes (gut) of the Goose and slitte hom, and scrape hom clene in water and salt, and so wash hom, and hack hom small, then do all this togedur ina piffenet (pipkin) and do thereto raisinges of corance, and pouder of pepur and of ginger, and of canell and hole clowes and maces, and let” hit boyle and serve hit forthe.” “« That unwieldy marine animal the Porpus was dressed in a variety of modes, salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular in their partiality to it ; I find, from an ingenious friend of mine, that it is even now, A.D. 1790, sold in the markets of most towns in Portugal; the flesh of it is intolerably hard and rancid.’?— WaRNER’s Antig. Cul. 4to, p. 15. * See Note to No, 59, how to plump the liver of a Gooses INTRODUCTION. 27 “The Swan* was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when the elegance of the Feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which it was composed ; the number consumed at the Earl of Northumberland’s table, A. D. 1512, amounted: to sahara Listes Northumberland Household-Book, p. 108. “ The Crane was a darling dainty i in iWeHion the Cennmntior’ s time, and so partial was that:monarch to it, that when his prime-fa- vourite, William Fitz’ Osborne, the steward of the household, served him with a Crane scarcely half roasted, the King was so highly exas- perated, that he lifted up his fist, and would have strucken him, had not Eudo (appointed Dapifer immediately: after) warded off the blow.”— W arRnERr’s Antiq. Cul. p. 12. -SEats, CurLtews, Herons, BirrrErns, and he Pracock aoe that noble bird, ‘‘ the food of Lovers and the meat of Lords,” were also at this time in high fashion, when the Baronial Entertainments were characterised by a grandeur and pompous ceremonial, approach- ing nearly to the magnificence of Royalty: there was scarcely any Royal or Noble feast. without PEcoxxEs, which were stuffed with Spices and Sweet herbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered after dressing with the skin and feathers; the beak and comb gilt, and the tail spread, and some, instead of the feathers, covered it with leaf gold ; it was a common dish on grand occasions, and con- tinued to adorn the English table till the beginning of the seven- teenth century. In Massinger’s Play of ‘* the City Madam,” Holdfast exclaiming against city luxury, says, ‘* three fat wethers bruised, to make sauce for a single Peacock.” This Bird is one of those luxuries cls were often sought, because they were seldom found: its scarcity and external appearance are its only recommendation — the meat of it is tough and tasteless. Another favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers, was a Pre of stupendous magnitude, out of which, on its being opened, a flock of living birds flew forth, to the no small surprise and amusement of the guests. . ‘¢ Four-and-twenty Blackbirds baked in a Pies When the Pie was open’d the birds began to sing — Ob! what a dainty dish —’tis fit for any King.” This was a common Joke at an old English Feast. These ani- mated Pies were often introduced “ to set on,’’ as Hamlet says, “‘ a quantity of barren spectators to laugh ;’’ there is an instance of a Dwarf undergoing such an incrustation. About the year 1630, King Charles and his Queen were entertained by the Duke and Duchess * “Tt is a curious illustration of the de gustibus non est disputandum, that the ancients considered the Swan as a high delicacy, and ab- stained from. the flesh of the Goose as impure and indigestible.” Movusray on Poultry, p. 36. 28 INTRODUCTION. of Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion JEF- FERY Hupson, the Dwarf, was served up in a cold Pie. — See WatroLe’s Anecdotes of Painting, vol. ii. p. 14. The Baron oF BEEF was another favourite and substantial sup- port of old English Hospitality. Among the most polished nations of the 15th and 16th centuries, the- powdered (salted) Horse, seems to have been a dish in some es- teem: Grimalkin herself could not escape the undistinguishing fury of the Cook. Don Anthony of Guevera, the Chronicler to Charles V. gives the following account of a Feast at which he was present. *¢ J will tell you no lye, I sawe such kindes of meates eaten, as are wont to be sene, but not eaten —as a HorskE roasted —a Cat in gely—LiyZaRDs in hot brothe, Froaees fried,” &c. While we are thus considering the curious dishes of olden times, we will cursorily mention the singular diet of two or three nations of antiquity, noticed by Herodotus, lib. iv. ‘* The Androphagi (the cannibals of the ancient world) greedily devoured the carcasses of their fellow-creatures ; while the inoffensive Cabri (a Scythian tribe) found both food and drink in the agreeable nut of the Pontic Tree. ‘The Lotophagi lived entirely on the fruit of the Lotus Tree. The savage Troglodyte esteemed a living serpent the most delicate of all morsels; while the capricious palate of the Zyguntini preferred the Ape to every thing.”—Vide WaRNER’s Antiq. Cul. p. 135. .*“* The Romans, in the luxurious period of their empire, took five meals a day ; a Breakfast (jentaculum) ; a Dinner, which was a light meal without any formal preparation (prandium) ; a kind of Tea, as we should call it, between dinner and supper (merenda) ; a Supper (cena), which was their great meal, and commonly consisted of two courses ; the first of meats, the second, what we call a Dessert; and a Posset, or something delicious after supper (commissatio).”? — Apam’s Rom. Antig. 2d Edition, 8vo. 1792, p. 434 and 447. ‘*¢ The Romans usually began their entertainments with eggs, and ended with fruits; hence, AB OVO USQUE AD MALA, from the begin- ning to the end of supper, Horat. Sat. i. 3. 6.3; Cic. Fam. ix. 20. ‘* The dishes (edulia) held in the highest estimation by the Romans, are enumerated, Gell. vii. 16. Macrob. Sat. ii. 9. Martial. v. 79. ix, 48, xi. 53. &c. a Peacock (pavo), Horat. Sat. ii. 2. 23. Juvenal. i. 143. first used by Hortensius, the orator, at a supper, which he gave when admitted into the college of priests, (aditiali cena sacer- dotii), Plin. x. 20. s. 23.5 a pheasant, (pHaAstaNna, ex Phasi, Colchidis mare | Martial. iii. 58. xili. 72. Senec. ad Hely. 9. Petron. 79. Horat. ib. Gallina N HN “Africana, Juvenal. xi. 142. Martial. xiii. 73.) ; a Melian crane; an Ambracian kid; nightingales, luscinie; thrushes, ¢wrdi; ducks, geese, &c. TomACcULUM, (a reuyw), vel Istcrum, (ab tmseco ) sausages or puddings, Juvenal. x. 355. Martial. 42. 9. Petron. 31.’*— Vide ibid. p. 447. That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the INTRODUCTION. 29 heterogeneous messes with which the Roman Palate was delighted, I introduce the following Receipt from Apicius. “¢ THick SAUCE FoR A BOILED CHICKEN. — Put the following ingredients into a Mortar: Aniseed, dried Mint, and Lazar Root, (similar to Assafoetida), cover them with vinegar ; add dates; pour in Liquamen, Oil, and a small quantity of Mustard Seeds —reduce all to a proper thickness with Port Wine warmed ; and then pour this | same over your Chicken, which should previously be boiled in Anise- seed water.” Liquamen and Garum were synonymous terms for the same thing ; the former adopted in the room of the latter, about the age of Aurelian. It was a Liquid, and thus prepared: The Guts of large Fish and a variety of small Fish, were put into a vessel and well salted, and exposed to the Sun till they became putrid. Svo.. page 40. THE BEST RULE FOR MARKETING is to pay READY moNEY for every thing, and to deal with the most respect- able Tradesmen in your neighbourhood. If you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good article, at the fair market price, you will be supplied with better Provisions, and at as reasonable a rate as those. Bargain-hunters who trot ‘‘ around around around about” a market till they are trapped to buy some unchewadle old. Poultry — tough Tup-Mutton — stringy Cow Beef— or. stale Fish* — at a very little less than the price of prime and proper food: — with savings like these they toddle home in triumph, cackling all the way, like a Goose that has got ankle-deep into good-luck. All the skill of the most accomplished Cook ai avail nothing, unless she is furnished with PRIME PROVISIONS. The best way to procure these is to deal with shops of established character: you may appear to pay, perhaps, Ten per cent more than you would, were you to deal with those who pretend to sell cheap, but you would be much more than in that proportion better served. ) Every trade has its tricks and deceptions — those who follow them can deceive you if they please, and they are too apt to do so, 1f you provoke the exercise of their over- reaching talent.+ * See the MarxEeTine TaBLEs at the end of the work. + ‘* He who will not be cheated a Jitile, must be content to be abused a great deal; the first lesson in the art of comfortable Eco- nomy, is to learn to submit cheerfully to be imposed upon in due pro- portion to your situation and circumstances ; if you do not, you will continually be in hot water. ** If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a. second word, if the first will not do, nor drop the least hint of an: 4 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 65 Challenge them to a game at “ Catch who Can,” by entirely relying on your own judgment; and you will soon. find nothing but very long experience can make you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmost advantage. Before you go to Market, look over your Larder, and consider well what things are wanting — especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated family can suffer a disorderly Caterer to be jumping in and out to the Chandler’s Shop on a Sunday morning. | Give your directions to your assistants, and begin your Business early in the Morning, or it will be impossible to have the Dinner ready at the time it is ordered. To be half an hour after the time is such a frequent fault, that there is the more merit in being ready at the appointed hour. This is a difficult task, and in the best- ‘Tegulated family you can only be sure of your time by proper arrangements. With all-our love of punctuality, we must not forge that the first consideration must still be, that the Dinner ‘* be well done when ’tis done.” Lf any Accident occurs to any part of the Dinner — or if you are likely to be prevented sending the Soup, &c. to the table at the moment it is expected, send up a message to your employers, stating the circumstance, and bespeak their patience for as many minutes as you think it will take to be ready. This is better than either keeping: the Company waiting without an apology, or dishing your Dinner before it is done enough, or sending any thing to table which is disgusting to the Stomachs of the guests at the first appearance of it. Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, should have a DIAL of about twelve inches diameter, placed over the Kitchen fire-place, carefully regulated, to Keep time exactly with the clock in the Hall or Dining- Parlour; with a frame on one side, containing a TASTE imposition ; the only method to induce him to make an abatement is the hope of future favours — pay the demand, and deal with the Gen- tleman no more’; but do not let him see that you are displeased, or as. soon as you are out of sight, your Reputation will suffer as much as your pocket has.” TrusLER’s Way to be Rich, 8vo. 1776, p. 85. 66 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. TABLE Of the peculiarities of the master’s palate, and the particular rules and orders of his Kitchen; and, on the other side, of the REWARDs given to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful service. In small Families, where a Dinner is seldom given—a great. deal of preparation is required, and the preceding day. must be devoted to the business of the Kitchen. On these occasions a Char-woman is often employed to do the dirty work. Ignorant persons often hinder you more than they help you: we advise a Cook to be hired to © assist to dress the Dinner — this would be very little more expense, and the work got through with much more com- fort in the Kitchen and credit to the Parlour. When you have 4 VERY LARGE ENTERTAINMENT to prepare, get your Sours and Saucgs, Forcemegats, &c. ready the day before, and read the 7th Chapter of our Rudiments of Cookery:— many Mapr Disuzs may also be prepared the day before they are to go to table; but do not dress them guete enough the first day, that they may not be. over-done by warming up again. Prepare every thing you can the day before the Dinner, and order every thing else to be sent in early in the Morn- ing; if the tradesmen forget it, it will allow you time to send for it. The Pastry, JELLIEs, &c. you .may prepare while the Broths are doing: then truss your Game and Poultry, —and shape your Collops, Cutlets, &c.— and trim them neatly, — cut away all Flaps and Gristles, §c. Nothing should appear on table but what has indisputable preten- sions to be eaten! Put your Mane Disuzs in plates, and arrange them upon the dresser in regular order: next, see that your Roasts and Boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed, &c. and quite ready for the Spit or the Pot. Have your VEGETABLES neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean washed in the colander :— provide a tin dish, with partitions, to hold your fine herbs; Onions and Shallots, Parsley, Thyme, Tarragon, Chervil, and Burnet, minced very fine, and Lemon-peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped very small— Pepper and Salt ready mixed, and your Spice- FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 67 ‘box and Salt-cellar always ready for action, — that every thing you may want may be at hand for your Stove-work, and not be scampering about the kitchen in a whirlpool of confusion, hunting after these trifles while the Dinner is waiting. In one drawer under your Spice-zox keep ready ground, in well-stopped Bottles, the several spices sepa- rate; and also that mixture of them which is called “< Ragotit Powder” (No. 457 or No. 460):—in another, keep your dried and powdered Sweet, Savoury, and Soup Herbs, &c. and a set of weights and scales: — you may have a third drawer, containing Flavouring Essences, &c. an invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces; (see the account of the ‘‘ Macazine or Taste,” or “Sauce- Box,” No, 462.) Have also ready some THICKENING, made of the best white flour sifted, mixed with soft water with a wooden spoon till it is the consistence of thick batter, —a bottle of plain Brownine (No. 322), some strained Lemon-juice, and some good Glaze, or PortTasBLe Soup (No. 252). “< Nothing can be done rn perfection which must be done m a hurry :’*—therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your Master and Mistress, and do credit to yourself, be punctual; — take care that as soon as the Clock Strikes, the Denner-Bell Rings: —this shews the establishment to be orderly, is extremely gratifying to the Master and his Guests, and is most praiseworthy in the Attendants. | But remember, you cannot obtain this desirable reputa- tion without good management in every respect ;— if you wish to ensure Ease and Independence in the latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only they can be obtained, — and earn them by a diligent and faithful+ performance of the duties of your * Says Tom Turirty, “ except catching of Fleas.” See T. T.’s Essay on Early Rising. + N. B. “ If you will take half the pains to deserve the regard of your Master and Mistress by being a good and faithful Servant, you take to be considered a good fellow-servant,—so many of you would not, in the decline of life, be left destitute of those comforts which 68 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. station in your young days, which, if you steadily perse- vere in, you may depend upon ultimately receiving eo reward your services deserve. All Duties are reciprocal; and if you hope to receive favour, endeavour to deserve it by shewing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful when obliged —such Behaviour will win regard, and maintain it; enforce what is right, and excuse what is wrong. Quiet steady Perseverance is the only : spring which you can safely depend upon for infallibly promoting your pro- gress on the road to Independence. -If your employers do not immediately appear to be sen- sible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interest, be not easily discouraged ; — Per- severe, and do all in your power to MAKE YOURSELF USEFUL. Endeavour to promote the Comfort of every Individual in the Family — let it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is required of you, than less than your. duty —they merit little who perform merely what would be exacted ;—if you are desired to help in any business which may not strictly belong to your depart- ment — undertake it Cheerfully, Patiently, and Consci- entiously. The foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to augment the comfort. of those in the Kitchen — who will soon find that the ever-cheering reflection of having done their Duty to the utmost of their ability — is in itself, with a Christian -spirit, a never-failing source of comfort in all circumstances and situations, and that ‘“¢ VIRTUE IS ITS OWN REWARD.” age requires, nor have occasion to quote the saying that, ‘ Service is no inheritance,’ unless your own misconduct makes it so. “¢ The idea of being called a Tell-tale has occasioned many good servants to shut their Eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants. ** In the eye of the law, persons standing by and seeing a felony committed, which they could have prevented, are held equally guilty with those committing it.”-Dr. TrusLER’s Domestic Management,, p- 12, and Instructions to Servants. TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. To reduce our Culinary Operations to as exact a cer- tainty as the nature of the processes would admit of, — we have, wherever it was ein ye given the Ouantities of each article. Ture WeieutTs are Avoirdupors. Tue Measure, —the graduated glass of the Apothe- caries ; this appeared the most accurate and convenient ;— the Pint being divided into sixteen ounces, the Ounce into eight drachms. A middling-sized Tea-spoon will contain about a Drachm;—four such Tea-spoons are equal to a middling - sized Table-spoon, or half an Ounce ;—four . Table-spoons to a common-sized Wene-glass. The specific gravities of the various substances being so extremely different, we cannot offer any auxiliary standards* for the Wr1curs, which we earnestly recom- mend the Cook to employ, if she wishes to gain credit for accuracy and uniformity in her business: these she will find it necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachm Avoirdupois, which is equal to nearly seven grains Troy. Grass Measures (divided into Tea and Table-spoons), containing from Half an Ounce to Half a Pint, — may be had at Hancock and SHeenERD’s GLass Suop, at Charing-Cross, and at Pricer’s, near Exeter ’Change, Strand; : where also may be had,—the pouBLE-HEADED PEPPER AND SPICE BOXES, with caps over the gratings. ‘The superiority of these, by preserving the contents from the action of the air, must be sufficiently obvious to every one: the fine aromatic flavour of Pepper 2s soon lost, from * A large Table-spoonful of Flour weighs about half an Ounce. 70 TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. the bottles it is usually kept in not being well stopped.. Peppers are seldom ground or pounded sufficiently fine. (See N.B. to 369,) N.B. The Troven Nutmec Graters made by Brooks, Ironmonger, in Piccadilly, (near Bond Street), are by far the best we have seen, especially for those who wish to grate fine, and fast. Lloyd, furnishing Ironmonger, Strand, near Norfolk Street, sells Sprines which weigh from an ounce to: 20 pounds, for £1. Is. Lioyp’s Batance, which weighs from 3 of a drachm to 20 pounds, is a very accurate and convenient. machine for weighing. RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. - CHAPTER I. BOILING.* Tuts most simple of Culinary processes is not often per- formed in perfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and attendance as Roasting ;—to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the slower the better) all the * «¢ The process by which food is most commonly prepared for the table — Bo1L1ne — is so familiar to every one, and its effects are so uniform, and apparently so simple, that few, I believe, have taken - the trouble to inquire how, or in what manner those effects are pro- duced ; and whether any, and what improvements in that branch of cookery are possible. So little has this matter been an object of inquiry, that few, very few indeed, I believe, among the Millions of Persons who for so many ages have been daily employed in this pro- cess, have ever given themselves the trouble to bestow one serious thought on the subject. “ Boiling cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel ; but any boiling-hot liquid (by using proper means for confining the heat) may be kept doiling-hot for any length of time almost with- out any expense of fuel at all. “ The waste of fuel in culinary processes, which arises from mak- ing liquids boil wnnecessarily, or when nothing more would be neces- sary than to keep them Loiling-hot, is enormous ; I have not a doubt but that much more than half the fuel used in all the kitchens, public and private, in the whole world, is wasted precisely in this manner. ** But the evil does not stop here. This unscientific and slovenly manner of cooking renders the process much more laborious and troublesome than otherwise it would be ; —and, (what by many will be considered of more importance than either the waste of fuel or the increase of labour to the cook)—the food is rendered less savoury, and very probably less nourishing and less wholesome. ** It is natural to suppose that many of the finer and more volatile parts of food (those which are best calculated to act on the organs of taste), must be carried off with the steam when the boiling is violent.”—Cownt RuMFoRD’s 10th Essay, pp. 3, 6. ‘ 72 BOILING. while, to know how long is required for doing the joint, &c., ‘and to take it up, at the critical moment when it is done enough, comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. - ‘This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, -of which few persons are capable. The Cook must take especial Care that the water really boils all the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and make up a sufficient fire (a frugal Cook will manage with much less fire for Boiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, without much mending or stirring. When the Pot is coming to a Boil there will always, from the cleanest Meat and clearest water, rise a Scum to the top of it, proceeding partly from the Water, — this must be carefully taken off as soon as it rises. On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. S. When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw up the rest of the scum. The oftener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the Meat. If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the Meat,* which, instead of looking delicately white and nice — will have that coarse and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the Butcher and Poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the Cook in not skimming her pot. Many put in Milk, to make what they boil look white ; but this does more harm than good ; — others wrap it up in a cloth; — but these are needless precautions: if the scum be attentively removed, Meat will have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled up. This may give rather mere trouble — but Those who wish to excel in their Art must only consider how the pro- ‘cesses of wt can be most perfectly performed : a Cook who chas a proper pride and pleasure in her business, will make this her maxim on all occasions. It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thick- * If, unfortunately, this should happen, the Cook must carefully take it off when she dishes up, either with a clean Sponge or a ‘Paste-brush. BOILING. 73 mess, or before thicker parts are done enough the thinner will be done too much. Put your Meat into cold* water,—in the proportion-of about a quart of Water to a pound of Meat: it should be covered with water during the whole of the process of Boiling, but not drowrféd in it—the less water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more Savoury will be the Meat, and the better will be the Broth. The Water should be heated gradually, according to the thickness, &c. of the article boiled, — for instance, a Leg _ of Mutton of 10 pounds weight (No. 1), should be placed. over a moderate fire, which will gradually make the water hot, without causing it to boil for about forty minutes—if _ the water boils much sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up as.if it was scorched—by keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the _ meat are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which - Taust be taken off as soon as it rises. “ 104. If a vessel containing water be placed over a steady Fire, the Water will-grow continually hotter till it reaches the limit of boiling, after which the regular acces- sions of heat are wholly spent in converting it into Steam. ‘“* Water remains at the same pitch of temperature, how- ever fiercely it boils. ‘The only difference is, that with a strong fire it sooner comes to boil, and more quickly boils away, and is converted into Steam.”--Bucuanan.on the Economy of Fuel, 1810. | The Editor placed a Thermometer in water in that state which Cooks call gentle simmering,—the heat was 212°— i, e. the same degree as the strongest. boiling. : Two Murron Cuops were covered with cold water, — and one boiled a galiop —and the other simmered very gently for three quarters of an hour—the Chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly superior to that which was boiled ; it was much tenderer, more juicy, and much higher flavoured—the Liquor which boiled fast was in * Cooks, however, as well as Doctors, disagree ; for some say that “all sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the water, boils.” I prefer the above method for the reason given — gentle stewing ren- ders Meat, &c. tender, and still-leaves it‘sapid and nutritive. E 74 BOILING. like proportion more savoury, and when cold had much more fat on its surface:—this explains why quick boiling renders Meat hard, &c. — because its juices are extracted in a greater devree. Reckon THE TIME from tts first coming to a boil. — The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat we think rather too little ; -— the slower it boils, the tenderer — the plumper — and whiter it will be. For those who choose their Food thoroughly eben — which all will who have any regard for their Stomachs — TWENTY MINuTES TO a Pounpd for Frzesu —and rather more for Sattep Mrart, will not be found too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire; —allowing more or less time, according to the thickness of the Joint, and the coldness of the Weather,—to know the state of which, let a Thermometer be placed in the Pantry, and when it falls below 40, tell your Cook to give rather more time in both Roasting and Boiling, always remembering, the slower zt boils the better. Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art; and Cooks seem to suppose they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, and set it over the fire for a certain time — making no allowance whether it simmers without a bubble, or boils a gallop. Fresh-killed Meat will take much longer time boilmg than that which has been kept till it is what the butchers: call ripe, —and longer in cold than in warm weather ; — if it be frozen it must be thawed before boiling as before roasting :—2f it be fresh killed, it will be tough and hard, af you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently. — In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into a place of which the temperature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermometer. The size of the Bo1ttine-Pors should be adapted to what they are to contain: —the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon the fire; and a larger quantity of Water requires a proportionate increase “of Fire to boil it. A little Pot Is soon hot. all BOILING. wer In small Families we recommend BLOCK TIN sauce- pans, &c. as lightest and safest ; — if proper care is taken of them, and they are well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest ; the purchase of a new Tin saucepan being little more than the expense of tinning a _ Copper one. Let rue Covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to prevent unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to _ prevent the escape of the nutritive matter, which must then remain either in the Meat or in the Broth — and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself under the _ edge of the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste. See _ Observations on Saucepans, in the 2d page of chapter 7. If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is _ done enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavour. Brrr and Murrow a little wrder-done (especially very large joints, which will make the better Hash or Broil), is not a great fault—by some people it is preferred ;—but | Lamb— Pork—and Veal, are uneatable if not thoroughly — boiled,—but do not over-do them. A Triver, or Fish-dramer, put on the bottom of the _ boiling-pot, raising the contents about an inch and a half from the bottom, wiil prevent that side of the meat which. _ comes next the bottom from being done too much, — and _ the lower part of the meat will be as delicately done as the _ other part ; and this will enable you to take out the con-- tents of the Pot, without sticking a fork, &c. into it. If you have not a trivet, use four Skewers, or a Soup-plate Jaid the wrong side upwards. Take care of the Liquor you have boiled Poultry or _ Meat in; in Five Minutes you may make it into EXCEL- LENT Soup. (See Obs. to No. 555, and No. 229.) The goop HovuseEwire never boils a Jomt without con-. verting the Broth into some sort of Soup (read No. 5, and. chapter 7, and see page 55). — If the Liquor be too salt,, only use half the quantity, and the rest water ; wash salted: eo well with cold water before you put it into the oiler. | , 76 ' BOILING. An Estimation of the Loss or We1Gut which takes place in Cooking Animal Food.— From Mr. TitLocn’s Phi- losophical Magazine. “It is well known, that in whatever way the flesh of animals is prepared for food, a considerable diminution takes place in its weight. We do not recollect, however, to have any where seen a statement of the loss which meat sustains in the various culinary processes, although it is pretty obvious that a series of experiments on the subject would not be without their use in domestic economy. » ‘“‘ We shall here give the result of a series of experi- ments which were actually made on this subject in a public establishment; premising that, as they were not under- taken from mere curiosity, but, on the contrary, to serve a purpose of practical utility, absolute accuracy was not attended to. Considering, however, the large quantities of provisions which were actually examined, it is presumed that the results may be safely depended upon for any practical purpose. It would no doubt have been desirable to have known not only the whole diminution of weight, ‘but also the parts which were separated from the meat in the form of aqueous vapour, jelly, fat, &c.; but the deter- mination of these did not fall within the scope of the inquiry. | lbs. ozs. 28 pieces of beef, weighing ...... 280. 0 Lost in boiling: .-::.:...4%.0.0s sem sis 73 14 “‘ Hence, the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this case about 264|bs. in 100Ibs. dbs. ozs 19 pieces of beef, weighing ...... 190 0 Lost in’roasting: 0%. 2). 50a 61092 “The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be 32 per cent. 2a lbs. ozs 9 pieces of beef, weighing’. ...... 90 0 Lostin baking...» » giles gees 27. 0 “ Weight lost by beef in baking, 30 per cent. BOILING. a lbs. » 028 27 legs of mutton, weighing ..... 260 0 Lost in boiling, and by having the shank-bone taken off ........ 62 4 ‘¢ The shank-bones were estimated at 4 ounces each; _ therefore the loss by boiling was 55lbs. 8ozs. “The loss of weight in legs of mutton in iii is | 215 per cent. Ibs. ons. 35 shoulders of mutton, weighing. 350. 0 Lost i in pasting OS ERS Pa ee oe Soe 109 10 * The el of weight in “shoulders of mutton by roast- ing, is about 314 per cent. lbs. O28. 16 loins of mutton, weighing .... 141 0 Lost in roasting ........... -..- 49 14 -“ Hence, loins of mutton lose by roasting about 354 per cent. lbs. 0238. 10 necks of mutton, weighing.... 100 0 Mee MOUs. i... 66. eee os 32 6 “¢ The loss in necks of mutton by roasting is about 324 per cent. “‘ We shall only draw two practical inferences from the foregoing statement. — Ist, In respect of economy, it is more profitable to boil meat than to roast it. 2dly, Whe- ther we roast or boil meat, it loses by being cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight.” The loss of Roast1n@ arises from the melting out of the Fat, and evaporating the water; but the nutritious matters remain condensed in the cooked solid. In Borz1n6, the loss arises partly from the fat melted out, but chiefly from Gelatine and Osmazome being ex- tracted and dissolved by the water in which the meat. is boiled; there is, therefore, a real loss of nourishment, 78 BOILING, unless the ae be used ;—when this mode of gotking becomes the most ectunumicall * The Sauces usually sent to Table with Boren Meat, &c. These are to be sent up in Boats, and never poured over the Meat, &c. Gravy for boiled Meat ..........0.sseeseees (Ne 327. 4 Parsley and Butter .............--< oli ances No. 261. Cheryl... cn cbbschscud se aiat an uneesemaaiae No. 264.) Caper a wine btibarascelaianlbaeelaeele (No. 274. QV SGT ie one ane nntioreslinnanalemp ad iinmenaenaaae (No. 278. Liver: and. Parsley: - cei -esseodepeneen ‘No. 287. | See ee eC aie ib AAA I So No. 289. ) nF 0m os. sinvncve caneuig pas ogee eee No. 296, &c.) Shallots... .......esesccns Pickled Pork, —(No. 11.) Takes more time than any other meat. Jf you buy your Pork ready salted, ask how many days it has been in salt; if many, it will require to be soaked in water for six hours before you dress it. When you cook it, wash and scrape it as. clean as possible; when delicately dressed, it is a favourite dish with almost every body. Take care zt does” not Boil fast ; if it does, the Knuckle will break to pieces, ‘before the thick part of the meat is warm through; a LEG” of. seven pounds takes three hours and a half very slow semmering. Skim your pot very carefully, and when you take the meat out of the Boiler, scrape it clean. | Some sagacious Cooks (who remember to how many more nature has given Eyes than she has given Tongues and Brains), when Pork is boiled, score it in Diamonds, and take out every other square—and thus present a retainer to the Eye to plead for them to the palate, — but this is pleasing the Eye at the expense of the Palate. A Leg of nice Pork, nicely salted, and nicely boiled, is as nice a cold relish as cold Ham — especially if, instead of cutting into. the middle when hot, and so letting out its juices, you cut it at the Knuckle: — slices broiled, as No. 487, are a good Luncheon, or Supper. — To make PraseE Puppine, and PrasE Sour EXTEMPORE, see N. B. to Nos. 218 and 555. Mrm.—Some Persons who sell Pork ready Salted have a silly trick of cutting the Knuckle in two — we suppose that'this is done to save their salt; but it lets all the Gravy out of the Leg; and unless you boil your Pork merely for the sake of the Pot-liquor, which in this case receives all the goodness and strength of the meat, — friendly Reader, _ your Oracle cautions you to Buy no Leg of Pork which 2s slit at the Knuckle. BOILING. 141. If Pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagree- ble: —if too much, it not only loses its colour and fla- our, but its substance becomes soft like a jelly. It must never appear at table without a good Pease *udding (see No. 555), and, if you please, Parsneps No. 128); they are an excellent Vegetable, and deserve © be much more popular; or Carrots (No. 129), Turnips and Greens, or Mashed Potatoes, &c. (No. 106.) t _ Obs.— Remember not to forget the shrek hate ony (No. 369, No. 370, and No. 427). | Petit-Toes, or Suching-Pig’s Feet. —(No. 12.) ~ Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew+pan with some broth, a blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a bit of thyme ; — boil the feet till they are quite tender ; this will take full twenty minutes; — but the heart, liver, and lights, will be done enough in ten, when they are to be taken out, and minced fine. Put them all together into a Stew-pan wih some Gravy ; thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour ; season it with a little pepper and salt, and'set it over a gentle fire to sim- mer for five minutes, frequently shaking them about. While this is doing, have a thin slice of Bread toasted very lightly; divide it into Sippets, and lay them round the dish: pour the mince and sauce into the middle of it, and split the feet, and lay them round it. N.B, Petitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter, and fried a light brown. Obs.—If you have no Gravy, put into the water you stew the petitoes in an Onion, a sprig of Lemon Thyme, or sweet Marjoram, with a blade of bruised Mace, a few black Peppers, and a large tea-spoonful of Mushroom catchup (No. 439), and you will have a very tolerable substitute for Gravy. A bit of ae be will be a very great im- a Aaa to it. Bacon. —(No. 13.) - Cover a pound of nice streaked Bacon (as the Hamp- shire housewives say — that “‘ has been starved one day, and fed-another”) with cold water, —let it boil gently. for 142. BOILING. three-quarters of an hour; take it up, scrape the under side well, and cut off the rind: grate a Crust of bread not only; on the top, but all over it, as directed for the Ham in they following receipt, and put it before the fire for a few mi- nutes: it must not be there too long, or it will dry it ~ spoil it. Two pounds will require about an hour and a half, ac- cording to its thickness,—the hock or gammon being: very thick, will take more. | Obs. See Nos. 526 and 527: when only a little Bacon; is wanted, these are the best ways of dressing it. The boiling of Bacon is a very simple subject to com- ment upon,—but our main object is to teach common Cooxs the art of dressing common food in the best: manner. Bacon is sometimes as salt as salt can make it, then fore before it is boiled it must be soaked in warm water for an hour or two, changing the water once; then pare off — the rusty and smoked part, trim it nicely on the under side, — and scrape the rind as clean as possible. . Merm.—Bacon is an extravagant article in Housekeep-. ing — there is often twice as much dressed as need be, —. when it is sent to table as an accompaniment to boiled Poultry or Veal, a pound and a half is plenty for a dozen people. A good German Sausage is a very economical substitute for Bacon — or fried Pork Sausages (No. 87). Ham, (No. 14.) Though of the Bacon kind, has been so altered and hardened in the curing, that it requires still more care. Ham is generally not half-soaked,—as salt as Brine, and hard as Flint; and it would puzzle the Stomach of an: Ostrich to digest it. Msm. —The Salt, Seasoning, and Smoke, which pre- serve it before it is eaten, prevent its solution after; and unless it be very long and very gently stewed, the strongest stomach will have a tough Job to extract any nourish- ment from it. If it is a very dry Westphalia Ham, it must be soaked, according to its age and thickness, from 12 to 24 hours ;— for a Green Yorkshire or Westmoreland BOILING... 143° Jam, from four to eight hours will be sufficient. Luke~ varm water will soften it much sooner than cold—when wfficiently soaked, trim it nicely on the underside — and yare off all the rusty and smoked parts till it looks deli- rately clean. ist Ib. 02. A Ham weighed before it was soaked 13 After.... Sey «, imal oi hates ag kak ns ow ols wlaibinue siaje 13. 4 Grimmed for Table ..........+.+- ~» Ad AZ Give it plenty of water-room, and put it in while the water is cold, —let it heat very gradually, and let it be ‘on the fire an hour and a half before it comes to a bol — let it be well skimmed, and keep it simmering very gently : a middling-sized ham of fifteen pounds will be done enough in about four or five hours, according to its thickness. If not to be cut till Cold, it will cut the shorter and tenderer for being boiled about half an hour longer. Ina very small Family, where a Ham will last a week or ten. days, it is best Economy not to cut it till it is cold —it will be infinitely more juicy. Pull off the Skin carefully, and preserve it as whole as ‘possible; it will form an excellent covering to keep the ‘Ham moist ;—when you have removed the skin, rub some Bread Raspings through a Hair-sieve, or grate a crust of Bread; put it into the perforated cover of the Dredging- box, and shake it over it, or glaze it; trim the Knuckle with a fringe of cut writing-paper. You may garnish with Spinage or Turnips, &c. _. Obs. —To Pot Ham (No. 509), is a much more useful and economical way of disposing of the remains of the joint, than making Essence of it (No. 352). To make Soup: of the Liquor zt 2s boiled in, see N.B. to No, 555. Tongue. — (No. 15.) A Tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying or pickling, that it requires much more cooking than a Ham ;—nothing of its weight takes so long to dress it. properly. ; A tongue that has been salted and dried should be put ielays before they are to be dressed. 444. BOILING. to soak (if it is Old and very hard, 24 hours before it is wanted) in plenty of water; —a Green one fresh from the — pickle requires soaking only a few hours:— put your Tongue into plenty of Cold water; let it be an hour gra- — dually warming; and give it from three and a-half to four — hours very slow semmering, according to the size, &c. i Obs.—When you choose a Tongue, endeavour to learn how long it has: been dried: or « pickled,— pick out the plumpest, and that which has the smoothest skin, which denotes its being young and tender. ne The Roots, &c. make an excellent relish POTTED, like No. 509 —or "Pease Soup (No. 218). : N:B.—Our correspondent, who wished us, in this Edi- tion, to give a receipt to Roast a TonevE, will find : an answer in No. 82. Turkeys, Capons, Fowls, Chickens, 8c.—(No. 16), _ Are all Boiled exactly in the same manner, only allow-_ ing time, according to their size. For the Stuffing, &c. (Nos. 374, 375, and 377), some of it made into Balls, and boiled or fried, make a nice garnish, and are handy to help—and you can then reserve some of the inside stuff- — ing to eat with the Cold fowl, or enrich the Hash (Nos. 530 : and 533). ; A Ghicken will takévabout! itt ee 20 minutes. “A Fowl) gies = 2t's.s Cal. a Se 40 A fine le-toed Fowl or a Capon, about an hour. A small Turkey, an hour and a half. A large one, two hours or more. Chickens or Fowls should be killed at least one or two Turkeys (especially large ones) should not be iestan z till they have been killed three or four days at least—zn ~ Cold Weather six or eight,—or they will neither look ee nor eat tender.* “* Baxer in his Chronicle tells us the Turkey did not reach Eng- dand till A.D. 1524, about the 15th of Henry the 8th: he says, ‘© Turkies, carps, hoppes, piccarell, and beere, _ Came into England all in one year.” BOILING, 145 _ Turkeys, and large Fowls, should ‘have the strings or sinews of the thighs drawn out. - Truss tHem with the legs outward, ‘they are much easier carved. . | Fowls for Boiling should be chosen as white as possible : af their complexion is not so fair as you wish, veil them in No. 2 of No. 361; those which have black legs should be roasted. The best use of THE LiveER is to make Sauce (No. 287). | Poultry must be well washed in warm water —7f very dirty from the singeing, &c. rub them with a little white Soap, — but thoroughly rinse it off — before you put them into the pot. — . ne _ Make a good and clear fire: set on'a clean pot, with pure and ‘clean water, enough to well cover the Turkey, &c.; the slower it boils, the whiter and plumper it will be.—When there rises any scum, remove it; the common method of some (who-are more nice than wise) is to wrap them up in a cloth, to:prevent the ‘scum attaching to them; which, if it does, by your neglecting to skim the pot, there is no getting it off afterwards, and the Poulterer is blamed for the fault of the Cook. | If there be water enough, and it is attentively skimmed, the Fowl will both look and eat much better this way than when it has been covered up in the cleanest cloth; and the colour and flavour of your Poultry will:be preserved in the most delicate perfection. a Obs.—Turkey deserves to be accompanied by Tongue (No. 15), or Ham (No. 14); ‘if these are not come-at-able, don’t forget Pickled Pork (No. 11), or Bacon and Greens (Nos. 83, 526, and 527), or Pork Sausages (No. 87); Parsley and Butter (No. 261); don’t pour it over, but send it up in a boat; Liver (No. 287), Egg (No. 267), or Oyster sauce (No. 278). To warm cold Turkey, &c. see No. 533, and following. To Grill the Gizzard and Rump, see No. 538. Save a quart of the liquor the Turkey was boiled. in—this, with the bones and trimmings, &c. will make good gravy for a Hash, &c. Rabbits — (No. 17). » Truss your’ Rabbits short, lay them in a Basin of warm — water for ten minutes,—then put them into plenty of — water, and boil them about half an hour ;: 7f Large ones, — three quarters: efvery Old, an hour: smother them with — plenty of White Onion sauce (No. 298), mince the Liver, and lay it round the dish, or make Liver sauce (No. 287), — and send it up in a boat. Obs.—Ask those you are going to make Liver sauce for, if they like plain Liver sauce, or Liver and Parsley, or — Liver and Lemon sauce (see Nos. 287 and 288). oe N.B.—It will save much trouble to the Carver, if the ~ Rabbits be cut up in the Kitchen into pieces fit to help at — table, and the Head divided, and one-half laid at each end, and slices of Lemon and the Liver, chopped very finely, a laid on the sides of the Dish. 4 At all events, cut off the Head before you send it to Table, — we hardly remember that the thing ever lived if — we don’t see the Head; while it may excite ugly ideas to — see it cut up in an attitude imitative of Life; besides, for ~ the preservation of the Head, the per animal sometimes e suffers a slower Death. . Tripe* — (No. 18). P Take care to have fresh Tripe, cleanse it well from the j fat, and cut it into pieces about two inches broad and four — long: put it into a stew-pan, and cover it with Milk and~ water, and let it boil gently till it is tender. : If the Tripe has been prepared as it usually is at the © Tripe shops, it will be enough m about an hour, (this depends upon how long it has been previously boiled at — the Tripe shop); 2f entirely undressed, —it will require — two or three hours — according to the Age and Quality — of it. Make some Onion sauck m the same manner as you. ares a : * HOMERE rapporte, que dans un régal magnifique préparé pour ’ Achille, on servit des tripes de boeuf, et que cela s’était toujours ob-- servé aux Repas DES HERos.”’—Cours Gastronomique, p. 155. BOILING. 147 some Spanish, or the whitest common Onions you can get; '—peel them before you boil them; when they are tender, which a middling-sized Onion will be in about three quar- ters of an hour, drain them in a-hair-sieve, take off the top skins till they look nice and white, and put them with the Tripe into a tureen or soup-dish, and take off ie fat if _any floats on the surface. _ Obs.—Rashers of Bacon (Nos. 526 and: 527), or Fried Sausages (No. 87), are a very good accompaniment to boiled Tripe, Cow-heels (No. 198), or Calf’s Feet, , see ‘Mr. Micu. Ketry’s Saucer (No. 311*), or Parsley and Butter (No. 261), or Caper Sauce (No. 274), with a little ‘Vinegar and Mustard added to them—or Salad Mixture (No. 372 or 458). Trive holds the same Rank among Solids, that WaTER- GRvEL does among Soups — and the former is desirable at Dinner, when the ue, is welcome at Supper. Read No. 572. Cow-Heel — (No. 18%, In the hands of a skilful Cook, will furnish several good Meals; when boiled tender (see No. 198), cut it into hand- some pieces, Egg and bread-crumb them, and Fry them a light brown, and lay them round a dish, and put in the middle of it sliced Onions fried, or the accompaniments ordered for Tripe. The liquor they were boiled i will | make Soups (No. 229, No. 240*, or No. 555). N.B. We give :no Receipts to boil Venison, GEEsE, Ducks, Putasanrs, Woopcocks, anp PEACOCKS, &e. —as our aim has been to make a useful Book, not a Big one (see No. 82). do for Rabbits (No. 298), or boil (slowly by themselves) | ¥ A rie. | = THE COOK’S ORACLE. ROASTING, N.B. —Jf the time we have allowed for Roasting appears rather | donger than what is stated in former works, we can only say, we have written from actual Experiments, and that the difference may be — accounted for, by common Cooks generally being fond of too fierce a fire, and of putting things too near to tt. Our calculations are made for a Temperature of about 50 degrees — of Fahrenheit. Stow Roastine is as advantageous to the tenderness and flavour 4 of Meat as Slow Boiling, of which every body understands the im-— portance. See the account of Count Rumford’s Shoulder of Mutton. The Warmer the weather, and the staler killed the Meat is—the — Jess time it will require to roast tt. Meat that is very Fat—requires more time than we have stated. BEEF is in proper season throughout the whole year. MEm.—As Butchers generally calculate upon its being a Sunday’s Dinner, you. can seldom depend upon its being tender on any other day. Ser-Loin of Beef—(No. 19). _ Tur Noble Str-Lorn* of about fifteen pounds, (if much thicker, the outside will be done too much before the mside is enough), will require to be before the fire about * This Joint is said to owe its name to King Charles the Second, who dining upon a Loin of Beef, and being particularly pleased with it, asked the name of the Joint ; said for its merit it should be &nighted, and henceforth called Sir-Loin. *¢ Our second Charles, of fame facete, On Loin of Beef did dine; He held his sword, pleased, o’er the meat, Arise thou famed Sir-Loin.’’ Ballad of the New Sir John Barleycorn. ROASTING. 149 bifto and a half or four hours; take care to spit it ais that it may not be heavier on one side than the other;— gut a little clean Dripping into the dripping-pan, (tie 2 sheet of paper over it to preserve the Fat,*) baste it well , as soon as it is put down, and every quarter of an hour alt the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;. then take off the paper, and make some Gravy for it (No. 326) ; stir the fire and make it clear; to Brown and Froth it, sprinkle'a po api over it, maste’ it with butter, and dredge it with _ The ballad of ‘* The Gates of Calais” calls it: ‘Renowned Sir-Loin, ofttimes decreed The theme of English Ballad ; On thee our Kings oft deign to feed, Unknown to Frenchmen’s palate ; Then how much doth thy taste exceed Soup-meagre, frogs, and salad !” | * “Tn the present fashion of FATTENING CaTTLE, it is more desirable to roast away the Fat than to preserve it. Ifthe honour~ able Societies of Agriculturists, at the time they consulted a learned: Professor about the composition of Manures, had consulted some competent authority on the nature of Animal Substances, the Public might have escaped the over-grown corpulency of the Animal flesh, which every where fills the markets.’ — Domestic Management, 12mo, 1813, p. 182. | * Game, "and other wild animals proper for food, are of very su~ perior qualities to the tame—from the total contrast of the circum- stances attending them. They have a free range of exercise in the open air, and choose their own food, the good effects of which are _very evident in a short delicate texture of flesh, found only in them. ieee juices and flavour are more pure, and their Fat, when it is in any degree, as in Venison, and some other instances, differs as much from that of our Jatted Animals, as Silver and Gold from the grosser ihetals. The superiority of Wetcu Murron and Scorcu BEEr is owing toa similar cause.”’—Jbid, p. 150. If there is more Far than you think will be eaten with the meat., ‘cut it off, it will make an excellent Puppine (No. 554); or clarify it, (see No. 84) and use it for Frying:—for those who like their meat done thoroughly, and use a moderate fire for roasting, the Fat need not be covered witb paper. | If your Beef is large, and your family small, —cut off the thin end and_salt it,—and cut out and dress the fillet (i. e. commonly called the inside) next day as Mock Hare (No. 67*): thus you get. , Three good hot Dinners. See also No. 483, on Made Dishes. For | Sauce for Cold Beef, see No. 359, Cucumber Sr No. 399. and Horseradish Vinegar, Nos. 399* and 458. » . " 150 ROASTING. flour; let it go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises, a take it up, put it on the dish, &c. ‘4 ? : i Vi Garnish it with Hillocks of HoRsERADISH scraped as ’ Jjine as possible with a very sharp knife, (see Nos. 458 — and 399*). A Yorkshire pudding is an excellent accom- panimert (No. 595, or No. 554). Obs.—The Inside of the Sir-Loin must never be cut* Hot, but reserved entire for the Hasm, or a MOCK HARE (No. 67*). (For various ways of dressing the Ins1DE oF THE Str-Lorn, see No. 483; for the Receipt to Hash or Broil Beef, No. 484, and Nos. 486 and 487; and for — other ways of employing the remains of a joint of cold Beef, see Nos. 503, 4, 5, 6). Ribs of Beef—(No. 20). on The rirst THREE Riss, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take three hours, or three and a half: tmz rouRTH AND FIFTH Riss will take as long, managed im the same way as the Sir-Loin. — Paper the Fat, and the thin part, — or it will be done too much, before the thick part ‘is done, enough, N. 'B. A Pig-iron placed before it on: the bars of the grate answers every purpose of keeping the thin part from” | being too much done. Obs.—Many persons prefer the Rzbs to the Str-Loi. _ Rabs of Beef boned and rolled —(No. 21). When you have kept two or three ribs of beef till quite. tender, — take out the bones, and skewer it as round as — q possible (like a fillet of veal) : —before they roll it, some — Cooks Egg it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing (No. 374). As the meat is more in a solid mass, it will require more — * s¢ This joint is often spoilt for the ites day’s use, by an injudi- cious mode of Carving. If you object to the festa take the brown off, and help the next—by the cutting it onl vi on one side, you pre- y serve the Gravy in the meat, and the good appearance also — by cutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of this joint, all the gravy runs out, it becomes dry, and exhibits a most unseemly aspect. | when brought to table a second time.’ From UDE’s Cookery, 8vo, 1818, p. 109. ROASTING. 151 time at the fire than in the preceding receipt; a piece of ten or twelve pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less than four and a half or Pye hours. For the first half hour, it should not be less than chek inches from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to the centre: —the last half hour before it will be finished, sprinkle a little salt over it; and if you wish to froth it, flour it, &c. . MUTTON* —(No. 23). As beef requires a large sound fire, Mutton must have a brisk and sharp one:— if you wish to have Mutton tender, it should be hung almost as long as it will keep :+ and then good eiyht-tooth, i.e. four years old’ Mutton, is as good eating as Venison, if it is accompanied by Nos. 329 — and 346. The Leg, Haunch, and Saddle, will be the better for being hung up in a cool airy place for four or five days at * Dean Swirt’s Receipt to Roast Mutton. To GEMINIAN?’s beautiful air—‘ Gently touch the warbling lyre.’ “ Gently stir and blow the fire, Lay the mutton down to roast, Dress it quickly, I desire, In the dripping put a toast, That I hunger may remove ;— Mutton is the meat I love. *¢ On the dresser see it lie ; Oh! the charming white and red! Finer meat ne’er met the eye, On the sweetest grass it fed ; Let the jack go swiftly round, Let me have it nicely browned. <¢ On the table spread the cloth, Let the knives be sharp and clean, Pickles get and salad both, Let them each be fresh and green. With small beer, good ale, and wine, O ye gods! how I shall dine!” “+ See the chapter of ApvicE Tro Cooks. a; 152 ROASTING. least: in Temperate weather, a week ;— in Cold:weather, ten days. | tag If you think your Mutton will not be tender enough to do honour to the Spit, dress it as a “‘ Gigot de sept heures,” see N.B..to No. 1 and No. 493. A Leg—(No. 24), Of eight pounds, will take about two hours-: — let it be well basted, and frothed in the same manner as directed: in No. 19. To Hasn Murron, No. 484. To Broit 11, No. 487, &c. A. Chine or Saddle — (No. 26) (z. e. the two Loins) of ten or eleven pounds, two hours — and a half: it is the business of the Butcher to take off- the skin and skewer it on again, to defend the meat from: extreme heat, and preserve its succulence ; if this is neg-. lected, tie a sheet of paper over it (baste the strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn): about a quarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, then baste it and flour it lightly to froth it. We like No. 346. for sauce. _ N.B. Desire the Butcher to cut off the Flaps and the tail and chump end,. and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten. This will reduce a Saddle of eleven pounds weight to about six or seven pounds. A Shoulder —(No. 27),. Of seven pounds, — an hour and a half; put the spit in. close to the shank-bone, and run it along the blade-bone. N.B. The spLaDE-BONE is a favourite Luncheon or Supper relish, scored, peppered and salted, and broiled,. or done ina Dutch Oven. A Loin* — (No. 28) Of Mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and ® Common Cooks very seldom brown the ends of Necks and Loins ;- to have this done. nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each. ROASTING. $52 three quarters. — The most elegant way of carving this is to cut it lengthwise, as you do-a Saddle; read No. 26. © N.B. Spit it on a skewer or lark-spit, and tie that om ‘the common spit, and do not spoil the meat ret running? the spit through the prime part of it. A Neck — (No. 29), About the same time as a Loin. It must be carefully | jointed, or it is very difficult to carve. The Neck and Breast are in small families commonly roasted together; the Cook will then crack. the bones across the middle before they are put down to roast; if this is not done care- fully, they are very troublesome to carve, — tell the Cook, ‘when she takes it from the Spit, to separate them before: _ she sends them to table. _ . Obs.—If there is more Fat than you think will be eater | ith the lean, cut it off, and it will make an excellent Suer Pupovine (No. 551, or No. 554). N.B. The best way to Spit this is to run iron skewers across it, and put the spit between them. A Breast — a 30), _ An hour and a quarter. To Grili a breast of Mutton, see Obs. to No, 38. A Haunch — (No. 31) (2. e. the leg and part of the loin) of Mutton: send up “two sauce-boats with it; one of rich Mutton Gravy, made” without Spice or Herbs (No. 347), and the other of Sweet Sauce (No, 346). It generally weighs about 15 pounds, and requires about three hours and a half to roast it. Mutton, Venison fashion—(No. 32). Take a neck of good four or five years old Southdowr wether Mutton, cut long in the bones; let it meg Cite end than the joint that is roasting, and occasionally place the spit. slanting, so that each end may get sufficient fire; otherwise, after - the meat is done, you must take it up, and put the ends before the fire. . . H2 154 ROASTING. temperate weather) at least a week: two days before you dress it, take allspice and black pepper, ground and pounded fine, a quarter of an ounce each; rub them together, and then rub your mutton well with this mixture twice a day; —when you dress it, wash off the spice with warm water, and roast it in paste, as we have ordered the Haunch of Venison (No. 63). Obs. — Persevering and Ingenious, Epicures have in- ‘ vented many methods to give Mutton the flavour of Veni- son ;— some say that Mutton, prepared as above, may be mistaken for Venison, -— others, that it is full as good ; — the refined palate of a Grand Gourmand, (in spite of the’ Spice and Wine the meat has been fuddled and rubbed’ with) will perhaps still protest against ‘‘ Welsh Venison”—* and indeed we do not understand by what conjuration Allspice and Claret can communicate the flavour of Veni- son to Mutton : —we confess our fears that the favour of - Venison (especially of its Fat) is inimitable but believe — you may procure Prime eight-toothed Wether Murton, keep it the proper time, and send it to table with the ac-' companiments (Nos. 346 and 347, &c.) usually given to Venison, and a Rational Epicure will eat it with as much satisfaction as he would “ feed on the King’s Fallow Deer.” VEAL —(No. 38). VEAL requires particular care to roast it a nice Brown. ‘Let the fire be the same as for beef; a sound large fire for’ a large joint, and a brisker for a smaller; put it at some distance from the fire to soak thoroughly, and then draw at near to finish it brown. ; When first laid down, it is to be basted ; — baste it again occasionally. When the Veal is on the dish, pour over it half a pint of melted Butter (No. 256) : if you have a little brown Gravy by you, add that to the Butter (see No. 326). . With those joints which are not Stuffed, send up Forcemeat (No. 374, or No. 375) in Balls, or rolled into Sausages, as garnish to the dish, or fried Pork Sausages (No. 87); Bacon » (No.13;, or No, 526, or No. 527), and Greens, are also always expected with Veal. | ROASTING, 455 Fillet of Veal —(No. 34), _ Of from twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from four to five hours at a good fire; make some Stuffing or Force- _meat (No. 374 or 5), and put it in under the flap, that _ there may be some left to eat cold, or to season. a Hasi :* brown it, and pour good melted butter (No. 266) over it, | as divested 3 in No. 33. _ Garnish with thin slices of lemon and Cakes’or Balls of ‘Stuffing, or No. 374, or No. 375, or Duck stuffing (No, 61), _ or Fried Pork Sausages (see No. 87), eee sauce e (No: 348), Bacon (No. 13), and Greens, &c. — N.B. Potted Veal (No. 533). Bs Obs.—A bit of the Brown outside is a Pavivutite with the Epicure in Roasts.— The Kinney cut out —sliced and broiled (see No. 358), is a high relish, which some Bons Vivants are fond of. A Loin — (No. 35) Is the best part of the Calf, and will take about three hours roasting. Paper the kidney fat, and the back: some Cooks send it up on a Toast, which is eaten with the Kid- , ney and the fat of this part, which is as delicate as any marrow. If there is more of it than you think will be eaten with the Veal, before you roast it cut it out, :it will make an excellent suet pudding : —take care to have your Fire long enough to brown the ends—same fae pad nt ge he as No. 34. ' A Shoulder — (No. 36), From three hours to three hours anda half, — stuff it with the forcemeat ordered for the fillet of peal in the under side, or Balls made of No. 374. : Neck, best end — (No. 37), Will take two hours ; same accompaniments as No. 34. The Scrag part is best- ‘made into a pie, or broth. * To Mince or Has VEat, see No. 511, or 511*, and to make a Rasour of cold Veal, No. 512. . 'P5E ROASTING. Breast — (No. 38), From an hour and a half to two hours. Let the caul remain till it is almost done, then take it off to brown it; baste, flour,.and froth it. - Obs. — This makes a savoury relish for a Luncheon or — Supper : — or, instead of roasting, boil it enough ;: put it in a cloth between two pewter dishes, with a weight on the upper one,.and let it remain so till cold; then pare and trim, egg,.and crumb it, and broil, or warm it in @ Dutch oven;, serve with it Capers (No. 274),.or Wow Wow sauce (No. 328). Breast of Mutton may be dressed. the same way. | Veal Sweetbread — (No. 39). ‘Trim a fine Sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh); par- boil it for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain — or , Beat up the yolk of an Egg, and prepare some fine Bread- crumbs. When the Sweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth; run a lark-spit or a skewer through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit: egg it with a paste-brush ; powder it well with bread-crumbs, and roast it. For Sauce, fried Bread-Crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a little Mushroom Catchup (No. 439),. and Lemon-Juice (Nos. 307, 554, or 356), or serve them on buttered Toast, garnished with Egg Sauce (No..267),. or | with, Gravy (No. 329). | Obs.—Instead of spitting them, you may put them into a tin Dutch Oven, or Fry them (Nos. 88, 89, or 513). LAMB — (No. 40) Is a delicate, and commonly considered Tender meat — but those who talk of tender Lamb — while they are think- ing of the Age of the Animal, forget that even a Chicken must be kept a proper time after it has been killed, or it will be tough picking. Woful experience has warned us to beware of accepting an invitation to: Dinner on Laster Sunday, — unless com- manded by a thorough-bred Gourmand, our. Incisores,: Metres and Principal Viscera, have protested against the Imprudence of encountering Young tough stringy Mut- fon, under the misnomen of Grass Lams. The proper name for “‘ Easter Grass Lamb” is ‘‘ Hay Murrow.” _ .To the usual accompaniments of Roasted Meat, Green Mint Sauce (No. 303), a Salad (Nos. 372 and 138"), is commonly added; and some Cooks, about five minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little fresh- gathered and finely minced Parsley, or No. 318: Lamb, and all Young Meats, ought to be thoroughly done ; therefore do not take either Lamb or Veal off the Spit till you see it drop white gravy. _ Grass Lambis in season from Easter to MicuarELMaAs, House Lamb from Christmas to Lady-Day. Sham Lamb, see Obs. to following Receipt. N.B. When green mint cannot be got, Mint Vinegar (No. 398) is an acceptable substitute for it; and Crisp Parsley (No. 318), on a side plate, is an admirable accom- paniment. Hind- Quarter — (No. 41), Of eight pounds, will take from an Hour and three quarters to two Hours : —baste and froth it in the same way as directed in No. 19. Obs. — A Quarter of a Porkling is sometimes skiuhed, cut, and dressed Lamb-fashion, and sent up as a substitute for it.. The Leg and the Loin of Lamb, when little, should be roasted together, — the former being lean, the a fat, — and the Gravy is better preserved. Fore-Quarter —(No. 42), Of ten pounds, about two hours. N.B. It is a pretty general custom, when you take off the Shoulder from the Ribs, to squeeze a Seville orange over them, and sprinkle them with a little Pepper and Salt. Obs, — This may as well be done by the Cook before it comes to Table; some people are not remarkably expert at dividmeg these joints nicely. ROASTING. 157 $58 ‘ROASTING. Leg —(No. 43), aq ‘Of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half. Shoulder —(No. 44), With a quick fire, an hour. See Obs. to No, 27. Ribs —(No. 45), About an hour to an hour and a quarter; joint it nicely ; crack the ribs across, and divide them from the — Brisket after it is roasted. Loin — (No. 46), An hour and. a quarter. — ..4 . Neck — (No. 47), An hour. Breast —(No, 48), Three quarters of an hour, PORK — (No. 49). The ‘prime season for Pork is from Michaelmas to March. Take particular care it be DONE ENOUGH: other meats under-done are unpleasant, but Porx zs absolutely uneat- able, —the sight of it is enough to appal the sharpest Appetite, if its Gravy has the least Tint of Redness. Be careful of the Crackling —if this be not crisp — or if it be burned — you will be scolded. , For Sauces, No. 300, No, 304, and No. 342. Obs. — Peasz Puppine (No. 555) is as good an ac- companiment to‘roasted, as it is to boiled Pork; and most palates are pleased with the Savoury Powder set down in No. 51, or Bread-Crumbs, mixed with Sage and Onion, minced very fine, or, ZEST (No. 255) sprinkled over it. N.B. “ The western Pigs, from Berks, Oxford, and ‘Bucks, possess a-decided superiority over the eastern, of ROASTING, d ~ 159 Essex, Sussex, and Norfolk; not to forget another qualifi- cation of the former, at which some readers may smile, a thickness of the skin, whence the Crackling of the roasted Pork is a fine gelatinous substance, which may be easily ‘masticated ; whilst the Crackling of the thin-skinned breeds is roasted into good block Tin, the reduction of which would almost require Teeth of Iron.”— Movupray on | Poultry, 1816, p. 242. | A Leg —(No. 50), Of eight pounds, will require about three hours: score the skin across in narrow stripes (some score it in dia- -monds), about a quarter of an inch apart; — stuff the knuckle with sage and onion minced fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and the yolk of an Egg; see Duck Srurrine, No. 61. . Do not put it too near the Fire, — rub a little sweet Oil on the skin with a paste-brush, or a goose-feather: this makes the Crackling crisper and browner than basting it with dripping ; and it will be a better colour than all the: art of Cookery can make it in any other way. And this is the best way of preventing the skin from blistering — which is principally occasioned by its being put too near the fire. Leg of Pork roasted without the Skin, commonly called Mocx Goosn* —(No. 51). Parboil it; take off the skin, and then put it down to roast ; baste it with butter, and make a Savoury Powder of finely minced, or dried and powdered Sage, ground black pepper, salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubbed to- gether through a colander: you may add to this a little very finely minced Onion; sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted; put half a pint of made gravy into the * Priscilla Haslehurst, in her Housekeeper’s Instructor, 8vo. Sheffield, 1816, p. 19, gives us a receipt ‘* to Goosify a shoulder of Lamb.” ‘Un grand Cuisinier,” informed me that ‘ to Lambify”’ the leg of a Porkling is a favourite Metamorphosis in the French — kitchen, when House Lamb is very dear. Se ae a es ay nn FET Fo SaaS OS Se a rea 160 ROASTING. . dish, and Goose stuffing (No. 378) under the’ knuckle skin; or garnish the. Dish with Balls of it fried or boiled. The Griskin — (No. Spa - Of seven or eight pounds, may be dressed in the same manner : —it will take an hour and a half roasting. A Bacon Spare-Rib —(No. 53) Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly, — not exactly according to its weight, but the thickness of the meat upon it, which varies very much :—lay the thick end nearest to the Fire. A proper BaLp Spare-Rib of eight pounds weight (so called because almost all the Meat is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done in an hour and a quarter :—there is so little meat on a bald Spare-Rzb, that if you have a large fierce fire it will be burnt before it is warm through ; joint it nicely, and crack the Ribs across as you do Ribs of Lamb. When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and. baste it with a little butter; dry a dozen Sage leaves, and tub them through a hair-sieve, and put them into the top of a pepper-box ; and about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done, baste it with butter; dust the pulverised. Sage, or the savoury powder in No. 51; or sprinkle with Duck Stuffing (No. 61). Obs, — Make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any thing that is roasted ; by so doing, the dredging, &c. is washed off, and it eats insipid. Some people carve a Spare-Rib by cutting out in slices the thick part at the bottom of the bones : when this meat is cut away, the bones may be easily separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking. Apple-sauce (No. 304), Mashed Potatoes (No. 106), and good Mustard (No. 370),.are indispensable. Loin — (No. 54), Of five pounds, must be kept at a good distance from. - ROASTING. 16f he fire on account of the Crackling, and will take about wo hours — if very fat, half an hour longer. — Stuff it with Duck Stuffing (No. 378). Score the skin ‘nm stripes, about. a quarter ‘of an Inch apart, and rub it with Salad Oil, as directed in No. 50. You may sprinkle over it some of the Savoury powder recommended for the Mock Goose (No. 51). | A Chine —(No. 55), If parted down the back-bone so as to have but one side, a good fire will roast it in two hours; if not parted; three pours: N.B. Chines are generally salted and boiled. A Sucking-Pig*—(No. 56) Is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old. It loses part of its goodness every hour after it: is killed ;—if not quite fresh, no art can make the Concerns g crisp. To be in perfection, zt should be killed in the morning to be eaten at dinner ; — it requires very careful roasting. A. sucking-Pig, like a young Child, must not be left for an instant. The ends must have much more fire than the middle; for this purpose is contrived an Iron to hang before the middle part, called a Pig iron. If you have not this, use a common flat Iron, or keep the fire fiercest at the two ends. For the Srurrine, take of the crumb: of a stale loaf about five ounces ; rub it through a colander; mince fine a handful of sage (¢. e. about two ounces), and a large onion (about an ounce and a half+); mix these together * Mons. Grimop designates this “‘ Animal modeste, ennemi du faste, et le Roi des Animaux immondes.”” Maitland, in p. 758, of vol. ii. of his History of London, reckons that the number of Sucking-« ah ahaa in the City of London in the year 1725, amounted to + Some delicately sensitive Palates desire the Cook to parboil the Sage and Onions (before they are cut) to soften and take off the raw- 162 ROASTING. with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as i big as an egg; fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it up; lay it to the fire, and baste it with Salad Oil till it — is quite done ;—do not leave it a moment} it requires the : most vigilant attendance. . Roast it at a clear brisk fire at some distance. To gain i the praise of Epicurean Pig-Eaters, the CRACKLING must _ be nicely crisped and delicately lightly browned, without ; being either blistered or burnt. . A small three-weeks old Pig will be enough* in about an hour and a half. Before you take it from the Fire, cut off the head, andl part that and the body down the middle ; chop the Brains very fine with some boiled Sage leaves, and mix them with — good Veal gravy, made as directed in No. 192, or Beef ~ Gravy (No. 329), or what runs from the Pig when-you cut — its head off. Send up a tureenful of Gravy (No. 329) _ besides. Currant Sauce is still a favourite with some of -— the Old School. | . Lay your Pig back to back in the dish, with one half of — the head on each side, and the Ears one at each end, which you must take care to make nice and erdsp, or you — will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly fellow was : who bought his wife a pig with only one ear. When you cut off the Pettitoes, leave the skin long — round the ends of the legs. When you first lay the Pig before the fire, rub it all over with Fresh Butter or Salad Oil; ten minutes after, and the skin looks dry—dredge it well with flour all over —let it remain on an hour — then rub it off with a soft cloth. : N.B. A Pig is a very troublesome subject to Roast,: most persons have them Baked ; send a quarter of a pound — -of butter, and beg the baker to baste it well. } Py ee ee ee ee ae ness of their flavour; the older and drier the Onion, the stronger will be its flavour ; and the learned EVELYN orders these to be eduleo-_ rated by gentle maceration. * An ancient culinary Sage says—‘* When you see a Pig’s Eyes drop out, you may be satisfied—he has had enough of the Fire!” This. is no criterion that the body of the Pig is done enough, but arises maerely: from the briskness of the Fire before the head of it. ¥ ROASTING.» : 163 TURKEY, TURKEY Poutrs, and other Pouttry. (No. 57.) A Fows, and a Turkey require the same management at the fire, only the latter will take longer time. Many a Christmas dinner has been spoiled by the Turkey having been hung up in a cold larder, and becoming ‘thoroughly frozen ;— Jack Frost has ruined the reputation of many a Turkey-Roaster:—therefore, in very cold Weather, remember the Note in the 5th page of the 2d chapter of the Rupiments or Cookery. __ Let them be carefully picked, &c. and break the hedst- bone (to make them look plump), twist up a sheet of clean | writing-paper, light it, and thoroughly singe the Turkey all _ over, turning it about over the flame. TURKEYS, Fowns, and Carons have a much better _ appearance if, instead of trussing them with the Legs close — together, and the feet cut off, the Legs are extended on each side of the bird, and the toes only cut off, with a skewer through each foot, to keep them at a proper dis- tance. Be careful, when you draw 6 to preserve the Liver, and not to break the Gall-bag, as no washing will take off the bitter taste it gives, where it once touches. Prepare a nice clear brisk fire for it. | Make Sturrine according to No. 374, or 376,— stuff it under the breast, where the craw was taken out, and make some into Balls, and boil or fry them, and lay them round the dish ; — they are handy to help, and you can then reserve some of the inside stufting to eat with the cold Turkey, or to enrich a Hash (No. 533). Score the Gizzard, dip it into the Yolk of an Egg or melted butter, and sprinkle it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne, put it under one Pinion and the Liver under the other, cover the Liver with buttered Paper, to prevent it from getting hardened or burnt. When you first put a Turkey down to roast, dredge it with Flour, then put about an ounce of Butter into a bast- ing-ladle, and as it melts, baste the bird therewith. Keep it at a distance from the fire for the first haif hour, 164 ROASTINGs mS that it may warm gradually, then put it nearer, and when — it is plumped up, and the steam draws in toward the fire, — it is nearly enough; then dredge it lightly with flour, and — put a bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste the turkey with it; this will raise a finer Froth than: can be produced by using the fat out of the pan. A very large Turkey will require about three hours to roast it thoroughly ; a mzddling-sized one, of eight or ten pounds (which is far nicer eating than the very large one), _ about two hours; @ small one may be done in an: ‘hour and a half. : TurkeY Powuuts are of various sizes, and +i at about an hour and a half; they should be trussed, with their legs twisted under like a Duck, and the head under the wing like a Pheasant. | ' Fried Pork Savusaces (No. 87) are a very savoury and favourite accompaniment to either roasted or boiled Poultry. A Turkey thus garnished is called “an ArpER- MAN 2n Chains.” Sausage-meat is sometimes used as stuffing, instead of the ordinary Forcemeat. (No. 376, &c.) Mem.—Jf you wish a Turkey, especially a very large one, ta be tender, never dress it till at least four or five days (in cold weather, eight or ten) after it has been killed. ‘¢ No man who understands good living will say, on such a day I will eat that Turkey — but will hang it up by four of the large tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning” visit to the Larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it when it falls, that day let it be cooked.” Hen Turkeys are preferable to Cocks for whiteness and tenderness, and the small fleshy ones with black legs are’ most esteemed. Send up with them Oyster (No. 278), Egg (No. 267), Bread (No. 221), and plenty of Gravy Sauce Lak 329). To nasu Turkey, No. 533. Mem.—Some Epicures are very fond of the Gidea and Rump peppered and salted, and broiled. —(See No. 538, “how to dress a Devi with véritable Sauce d’ Enfer!1”\y 7 Carons or Fowuts —(No. 58) Must be killed a couple of days in moderate, and more n cold weather, before they are dressed, or they will eat tough :—a good criterion of the ripeness of Poultry for the. spit, is the ease with which you can then pull out the feathers; when a Fowl is plucked, leave a few to help you. to ascertain this. They are managed exactly in the same manner, and sent up with the same sauces as a Turkey, only they require ~ ‘proportionably less time at the fire : — A FULL-GROWN Five-ToED Fow1t, about an hour and ‘a quarter. A MODERATE-SIZED one, an hour. _ A Cutcxen, from thirty to forty minutes. Here, also, Pork Sausages fried (No. 87), are in general a favourite accompaniment, or Turkey Stuffing ; see Force- meats (Nos. 374, 5, 6, and 7); put in plenty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which must be tied closely (both at. the neck and rump), to keep in the stuffing. _ Some cooks put the Liver of the Fowl “into this force- meat, and others mince it and pound it, and rub it up with flour and melted butter (see No. 287). When the Bird is stuffed and trussed, score the Gizzard nicely, dip it into melted butter, let it drain, and then season it with Cayenne and Salt, put it under one pinion, and the Liver under the other—to prevent their getting hardened _or scorched, cover them with double paper buttered. Take care that your Roasted poultry be well browned ; it is as indispensable that roasted poultry should have a zich Brown complexion, as bozled poultry should have a delicate White one. Obs.—** The Art of fattening Poultry for the London Market is a considerable branch of rural Economy in some convenient situations, and consists in supplying them with _ plenty of healthy food, and confining them; and Ducks and Geese must be prevented from going into water, which prevents them from becoming fat, and they also thereby acquire a rancid fishy taste. — They are put into a dark place, and crammed with a paste made. of Barley, Meal, ROASTING. 165 ~ ney aye . Pe 3a t i \. a 166 ROASTING. mutton-suet, and some treacle or coarse Sugar mixed with milk, and are found to be completely ripe in a fortnight, If kept longer, the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletion renders them red and unsaleable, and frequently kills them.”— But Exercise is as indispensable to the health of Poultry as other creatures,—without it, the fat will be all accumulated in the cellular membrane, instead of being dispersed through its system.— See Mou- BRAY on Breeding and Fatéening Domestic Roxie | 12mo. 1819. _Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some Epil cures preferred to those called Barn-Door Fowls, whom we have heard say, that they should as soon think of ordering” a Barn-Door for Dinner as a Barn-Door Fowl. i The Age of Poultry makes all the difference : —nothing i is tenderer than a young Chicken; few things are tougher than an old Cock or Hen, which is only fit to make Broth. The meridian of perfection of Poultry is just before they _ have come to their full growth, before they have begun to harden. For Sauces, see No. 305, or Liver and Parsley, No. 287, and those ordered in the last receipt. To hash it, No. 533. ‘ Goose — (No. 59). When a Goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned, make the Srurrine with, about two ounces of Onion,* and half as much Green Sage, chop them very fine, adding four ounces, 2. e. about a large breakfast-cupful of stale Bread- crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a walnut, and a ver little Pepper and Salt (to this some Cooks add half the Liver,+ parboiling it first), the yolk of an egg or two, and * If you think the flavour of raw Onions too strong, cut them in: slices, and lay them in cold water for a couple of hours, or add as. much Apple or Potatoe as you have of Onion. +- Although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nerves. of the good folks of Great Britain, the Livers of Poultry are con- sidered a very high relish by our Continental neighbours; and the. following directions how to procure them in perfection, we copy from the Recipe of “‘ wn Vieil Amateur de Bonne Chere.” | “* The Liver of a Duck, or a Goose, which has submitted ‘to the ee ROASTING. 167 acorporating the whole well together, stuff the Goose; do 1ot quite fill it, but leave a little room for the stuffing to well. Spit it, tie it on the spit at both ends, to prevent ts swinging round, and to keep,the stuffing from coming jut. From an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters, will roast a fine full-grown Goose. Send u Gravy, ‘and Apple-sauce with it (see Nos. 300, 304, 329, and 341). To hash it, see No. 530. _ _ For another Stuffing for Geese, see No. 378. | Obs.—* Goose-feeding in the vicinity of the metropolis is so large a concern, that one person annually feeds for market upwards of 5000.” “* A Goose on a farm in Scot- jJand, two years since, of the clearly ascertamed age of 89 years, healthy and vigorous, was killed by a Sow while ‘sitting over her Eggs; it was supposed she might have lived many years, and her fecundity appeared to be per- manent. ‘Other Geese have been proved to reach the age of 70 years.” — Movusray or Poultry, p. 40. t. + ‘rules and orders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of his sebaceous glands, is a superlative exquisite to the palate of.a Parisian Epicure ;—but, alas! the poor goose, to produce this darling ' dainty, must endure sad torments. He must be crammed with meat, deprived of drink, and kept constantly before a hot fire —a miserable | Martyrdom indeed —and would be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences of his sufferings did not afford him some conso-- ' lation— but the glorious prospect of the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage and support; and when he thinks how _ speedily it will become almost as big as his Body — how high it will rank on the list of double relishes —and with what ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers “‘ des Foies gras,”’ he submits to his destiny without a sigh.— The famous Strasburg Pies are made with Livers thus prepared, and sell for an enormous price.” However incredible this ordonnance for the obesitation of a Goose's Liver may appear at first sight—will it not seem equally so to after- ages, that in this enlightened country, in 1821, we encouraged a Folly as much-greater—as its operation was more universal ?—— Will it be believed, that it was then considered the acme of perfection in Beef and Mutton, that it should be so over-fattened, that a poor man, to obtain one pound of Meat that he could eat, must purchase another which he could not, unless converted into a Suet Pudding—more- over, that the highest Premiums were annually awarded to those who produced Sheep and Oxen in the most extreme state of morbid’ Obesity! 1! ; —______—. “ expensive plans For deluging of Dripping-pans.”’ 168 ; tat neti It appears in'Dr. Stark’s Ropetadedan on Diet, p. 10, that ‘‘ when he fed upon Roasrrep Goosz, he was more vigorous both in Body and Mind than with any other diet.” The’ Goose at Michaelmas is as famous:in the mouth vof the million, as the Minced Pie at Christmas ; but, for those who eat with delicacy, it is by that time too fulle ‘grown. The true period when the Goose is in its highest per- fection, is when it has just acquired its full growth, and not begun to harden. Ifthe March goose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank; the fine time.is between both ; i from the second week in June to the first-in September : the Leg is not the most tender part of a Goose. See Mock. Goose (No.'51). a Green Goose—(No. 60). Geese are called Green till they are about four months old. The only difference between roasting these and a full-_ grown Goose, consists in seasoning it with pepper and salt 7 instead of sage and onion, and roasting it for forty. or fittyg | minutes only, Obs. This is one of the least desirable of those insipid premature productions, which are esteemed dainties. Duck—(No. 61). Mind your Duck is well cleaned, and wiped out arith a ‘clean cloth; for the SruFriNG, take an ounce of Onion and half an ounce of green Sage; chop them very fine, and mix them with two ounces, 2. e. about a breakfast-cupful, of Bread-crumbs, a bit of butter about as big asa Walnut, a very little black pepper and salt, (some obtuse palates ‘may require warming with a little Cayenne, No. 404,) and — the yolk of an egg to bind it; mix these thoroughly to- gether, and put into the Duck. For another Sturrine, see No. 378. From half to three quarters of an hour will ‘be enough to roast it, according to the size: contrive to ‘have the Feet delicatel y crisp, as some people are very fond of them:—to do this nicely you must have a sharp ROASTING. 169 | fire. For Sauce, Green Pease (No. 134), Bonne Bouche (No. 341), Gravy Sauce (No. 329), and Sacer and ONION Sauce (No. 300). ; To Hasu or Stew Ducks, see No. 530. N.B. If you think the raw Onion will make too strong an impression upon the Palate, parboil it. — Read Obs. to No. 59-5 ee) | ! To ensure Ducks being tender—in moderate weather kill them a few days before you dress them. | Haunch of Venison—(No. 63). To preserve the Fat, make a paste of flour and water, as much as will cover the haunch, wipe it with a dry cloth m eyery part, rub a large sheet of paper all over with butter, ‘and cover the Venison with it, then roll out the paste about three-quarters of an inch thick, lay this all over the fat side, and cover it well with three or four sheets of strong white paper, and tie it securely on with packthread; have a strong close fire, and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down to roast (to prevent the paper and string from burning) ; it must be well basted all the time. ae A Buck Haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 pounds, will take about four hours and:a half roasting, in warm, and longer in Cold weather,—a Haunch of from 12 to 18 pounds will be done in about three or three and a half. A quarter of an hour before it is done, the string must be cut, and the paste carefully taken off; now baste it with butter, dredge it lightly with flour, and when the froth rises, and it has got a very light brown colour, gar- nish the knuckle-bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper, and send it up, with good strong (but unseasoned) Gravy (No. 347), in one boat, and Currant-Jelly Sauce in the other, or Currant-Jelly in a side plate (not melted): see for Sauces, Nos. 344, 5, 6, and 7. Mem. “ The Alder- man’s. Walk” is the favourite part. . Obs. Buck Venison is in greatest perfection from Mid- summer to Michaelmas, and Dor from November to January. ; I AFD ieee Wk, ROASTING. Neck and Shoulder of Venison—(No. 64) ‘Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch; — only they do not require the coat or paste, and will not take’ so much time. : The best way to spit a neck is to put hee skewiia bi through it, and put the spit between the ee and the bones. ; A Fawn—(No. 65) Like a sucking Pig, should be dressed-almost as soon — as killed. When very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted. the same way as a Hare. But they are better ~ eating when of the size of a House Lamb, and are — then roasted in quarters; the hind-quarter is most es- teemed. : They must be put down toa very quick fire, and either basted all the time they are roasting, or be covered, with — sheets of fat bacon; when done, baste it with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour, till you make a nice ~ froth on it. | N.B. We advise our friends to half roast a Fawn as soon as they receive it, and then make a Hash of it like No. 528, Send up Venison sauce with it. See the preceding — Receipt, or No. 344, &c. . A Kid—(No. 65*). A young sucking Kid is very good eating ; to have it — in prime condition, the Dam should be kept up, and well fed, &c. Roast it like a Fawn or Hare. Hare—(No. 66). “6 Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus.’?—MARTIAL. The first points of consideration are, How old is the Hare ? and how long has it been killed? When young, it is easy of digestion, and very nourishing ; —when old, the: contrary in every respect. * ROASTING. ' 08 _ To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the fore- foot ; you will find a small knob, if it is a Leveret, which disappears as it grows older; then examine the ears, if they tear easily, it will eat tender; if they are tough, so will be the Hare, which we advise you to make into Soup (No. 241), or stew or sue it (see No. 523), | . When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows: stale, it becomes limp. / _ As soon as you receive a Hare, take out the Liver, par- boil it, and keep it for the stuffing; some are very fond of it ;—do not. use it if it be not quite fresh and good. ‘Some mince it, and send it up as a garnish in little hil- locks round the dish. Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the ‘inside with pepper, and hang it up in a dry cool place. ' Paunch and skin* your Hare, wash it, and lay it in a large pan of cold water four or five hours, changing the ‘water two or three times; lay it in a clean cloth, and dry ‘it well, then truss it. To make the Sturrine, see No. 379: do not make it too thin; it should be of cohesive consistence: if it is not sufficiently stiff, it is good for nothing: put this into the belly, and sew it up tight. - : Cut the neck-skin to let the blood out, or it will never appear to be done enough ; spit it, and baste it with Drip-. ‘pings,t (or the juices of the Back will be dried up before the upper joints of the Legs are half done,) till you think ‘it is nearly done, which a middling-sized Hare will be in about an hour and a quarter. When it is almost roasted * This, in culinary technicals, is called. casing it,--upon the same: principle—that ‘ eating, drinking, and. sleeping,”’ are termed non- naturals. + Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her “* Complete System of Cookery,” page 283, says she has “tried all the different things recommended to baste a hare with, and never found any thing so good as smalt beer ;” others order milk ; Dripping we believe is better than any thing. To roast a Hare nicely, so as to preserve the meat on the oak &c. juicy and nutritive, requires as much attention as a Suck... ing-Pig Instead of washing, a “grand Cuisinier” says, it is much better~ to wipe a Hare with a thin dry cloth, as so much washing, or indeed. washing at all, takes away the flavour. 172 ROASTING. enough, put a little bit of butter into your basting-ladle, — and baste it with this, and flour it, and froth it nicely. i Serve it with good Gravy (No. 329, or No. 347), and ~ Currant-jelly. For another Srurrine, see receipt No. 379. Some Cooks cut off the head and divide it, and lay one half on each side the Hare. ‘Cold Roast Hare will make excellent Soup (No. 241), chopped to pieces, and stewed in three quarts of water for a couple of hours; the Stuffing will be a very agreeable © substitute for Sweet herbs and seasoning. See receipt for — Hare Soup (No. 241), Hasnep Hare (No. 529), and Mock Harz, next Receipt. Mock Hare—(No. 66*). 7 Cut out the Fillet (2. e. the inside lean) of a Sirloin of — Beef, leaving the Fat to roast with the joint. Prepare — some nice Stuffing, as directed for a hare, in No. 66, or. 379; put this on the beef, and roll it up with tape, put a skewer through it, and tie that on a spit. Obs.—If the Beef is of prime quality—has been kept till thoroughly tender—and you serve with it the ac- © companiments that usually attend roast hare (Nos. 329 — 344, &c.), or Stew ir, and serve it with a rich thickened © Sauce garnished with Forcemeat Balls (see No. 379), the most factions palate will have no reason to regret that the Game Season is over. To make this into Harr Soup, see No. 241. Rabbit—(No. 67). If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young, and forty a full-grown Rabbit. When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge © it lightly and’ carefully with flour, that you may have it frothy, and of a fine light brown. While the rabbit is — roasting, boil its Ziver* with some Parsley 5: when. tender, chop them together, and put half the mixture into some melted butter, reserving the other half for Garnish, divided into little roihanaley Cut off the head, and lay half on each ~ side of the dish. * Liver Sauce, Nos. 287 and 288. ROASTING 178 ” Obs.—A fine, well-grown (but young) Warren Rabbit, kept some time after it has been killed, and roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eats very like a Hare, to the nature of which it approaches, —it is nice nourishing food when young, but hard and unwholesome when old. For Sauces, Nos: 298, 287, and 329. Pheasant—(No. 68) Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one. Thirty minutes will roast a young bird, and forty or fifty a full- grown Pheasant. Pick and draw it, cut a slit in the back cof the neck, and take out the craw, but don’t cut the head off: wipe the inside of the bird with a clean cloth, twist the legs close to the body, leave the feet on, but cut the toes off; don’t turn the head under the wing, but truss it like a fowl,—it is much easier to carve; baste it, butter and froth it, and prepare sauce for it (Nos. 321 and 329): see the instructions in receipts to roast fowls and turkeys, Nos. 57 and 58.._ , : Obs.— We believe the rarity of this bird is its best re- commendation ; and the character given it by an ingenious French author is just as good as it deserves. “Its flesh is naturally tough, and owes all its tenderness and succu- lence to the long time it is kept before it is cooked ;” until it is “bien mortifiée,” it is uneatable.* Therefore, instead of ‘‘ sus per col,” suspend it by one of the long tail-feathers, and the Pheasant’s falling from it is the criterion of its ripeness and readiness for the spit. Our President of the Committee of Taste (who is inde- * « They are only fit to be eaten when the Blood runs from the Bill, which is commonly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed, otherwise it will have no more savour than a common fowl.”— Ude’s Cookery, 8vo, 1819, page 216. ** Gastronomers who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in Game properly kept, had better abstain from this bird—since it is worse than a common fowl, if not waited for till it acquires the fumet it ought to have. Whole republics of Maggots have often been found rioting under the wings of Pheasants ; but being radically dis- persed, and the birds properly washed with Vinegar, every thing went right, and every guest, unconscious of the culinary ablutions, enjoyed the excellent flavour of the Phasian birds.”’— Tabella Ci- baria, p. 55. 174 ROASTING. fatigable in his endeavours to improve the Health, as well as promote the Enjoyment of his fellow-Students in the School of Good Living, and to whom the Epicure, the Economist, and the Valetudinarian, are equally indebted for his careful revision of this work, and especially for in- troducing that salutary maxim into the Kitchen, —hat “the salubrious is ever a superior consideration to the Savoury,” and indeed, that the Rational Epicure only relishes the latter when entirely subordinate to the former), has suggested to us, that the detachment of the Feather cannot take place until the body of the Bird has advanced more than one degree beyond the state of wholesome haut-. gott, and become “ trop mortsfiée ;” and that to enjoy this Game in perfection, you must have a brace of birds killed the same day; these are to be put m suspense, as above directed —and when one of them drops—the hour is come that the spit should be introduced to his com: panion : — “‘ Ultra citraque nequit consistere rectum.” N.B. Sportsmen will find the following rule of very great advantage to themselves and their Cooks,—to order their game-keepers (and observe the same themselves) to cut off a Claw of each Bird they kill, denoting. the day of the week, thus Cook should be particular in keeping each week’s killing separate. The claws should not be cut off when the Bird is dressed for Table, as they serve to shew the Company when it was killed, and consequently how long it has been kept. Mock Pheasant—(No. 69). If you have only one pheasant, and wish for a com- panion for it, get a fine young fowl, of as near as may be the same size as the bird to be matched, and make game ~of it by trussing it like the pheasant, and dressing it ~ | | | ROASTING, 175 hbeording to the above directions. Few persons will dis- cover the pheasant from the fowl, especially if the latter aas been kept four or five days. _ The peculiar flavour of the Pheasant (like that of other game) is principally acquired by long keeping. Guinea and Pea Fowls—(No. 69*) Are dressed in the same way as Pheasants. _ Partridges—(No. 70) ~ Are cleaned and érussed in the same manner as a phea- sant (but the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them very troublesome to carve); the breast is so plump, it will require almost as much roasting; send up with them rice sauce (No. 321*), or bread sauce (No. 321), and good gravy (No. 329). - *.* Tf you wish to preserve them longer than you think they will keep good undressed, half roast them, they will then keep two or three days longer ; or make a Pie of them. Black Cock (No. 71), Moor Game (No. 72), and Grouse (No. 73), Are all to be dressed like partridges; the Black Cock will take as much as a pheasant, and Moor Game and Grouse as the partridge. Send up ae them Currant- jelly and fried Bread-crumbs (No. 320). Wild Ducks—(No. 74). For roasting a Wild Duck, you must have a clear brisk fire, and a hot spit; it must be browned upon the outside, without being sodden within. To have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen or twenty Mintel will do it in the fashionable. way ; but if you like it a little more done, allow it a few minutes longer ; if it is too much it will lose its flavour. For the sauce, see No. 338 and No. 62. Widgeons and Teal—(No. 75) Are dressed exactly as the wild duck; only that less | time is requisite for a Widgeon, and still less for a Teal. 176 ROASTING. Woodcockh—(No..76).. Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the — Lovers of ‘ haut-goit” considered a ‘‘ Bonne Bouche ;” truss their legs close to the Body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, close to the body, and tie them on asmall bird spit, put them to roast at a clear fire; cut as many slices of bread as you have birds, toast or fry them a deli- cate brown, and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch the Trail;* baste them with butter, and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the. birds on the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the . dish, and send some up in a boat, see Obs. to No. 329: | twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish with slices of lemon. Obs. — Some Epicures like this bird very much under- done, and direct that — a Woodcock should be just intro- duced to the Cook, for her to shew it the Fire, and then send it up to Table. Snipes—(No. 77) Differ little from Woodcocks, unless in size; they are to — be dressed in the same way, but require about five minutes less time to roast them. For Sauce, see No. 338. Pigeons—(No. 78). When the pigeons are ready for roasting, if you are desired to stuff them, chop some green parsley very fine, the liver, and a bit of butter together, with a little pepper and salt, or with the stuffing ordered: for a fillet of veal * “ This bird has so insinuated itself into the favour of refined gourmands, that they pay it the same honours as the grand Lama, making a Ragoiit of its Excrements, and devouring them with ecstasy.” —Vide Almanach des Gourmands, vol. i. p. 56. That Exercise produces strength and firmness of fibre is excel- lently well exemplified in the Woodcock and the Partridge. —'The former flies most—the latter walks ;—the wing of the Woodcock is always very tough,—of the Partridge very tender: hence the old doggrel distich,—— “ If the Partridge had but the Woodcock’s thigh, He’d be the best Bird that e’er doth fly.” The Breast of.all Birds is the most juicy and nutritious part. ’ i \ | ROASTING, 177 ‘No. 374 or No. 375), and fill the belly of each bird with it. They will be done enough in about twenty or thirty minutes; send up Parsley and Butter (No. 261,) in the dish under them, and some in a boat, and garnish with crisp Parsley (No. 318), or Fried Bread Crumbs (No. 320), or Bread Sauce (No. 321), or Gravy (No. 329). ~ | Obs.— When Pigeons are fresh they have their full relish ; but it goes entirely off with a very little keeping ; nor is it any way so well preserved as by Roasting them,—when ‘they are put into a Pir, they are generally baked to rags, and taste more of pepper and salt than of any thing else. A little melted butter may be put into the dish with them, and the gravy that runs from them will mix with it into fine ‘sauce. Picrowns.are in the greatest perfection from Mid- ‘summer to Michaelmas, there is then the most plentiful and best food for them; and their finest growth is just when they are full feathered. When they are in the pen-feathers, they are flabby ; when they are full grown, and have flown some time, they are tough. Game and Poultry are best when they have just done growing, 2. e. as soon as Nature has perfected her work. 3 This was the secret of Solomon, the famous Pigeon- feeder of Turnham Green, who is celebrated by the poet Gay, when he says, © . * That Turnham Green, which dainty pigeons fed, But feeds no more, for Solomon is dead.”’ Larks and other small Birds—(No. 80). These delicate little birds are in high season in Novem- ber. When they are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them; brush them with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs; spit them on a lark-spit, and tie that on to a larger spit; ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire will do them enough; baste them with fresh butter while they are roasting, and sprinkle them with bread- crumbs till they are well covered with them. ) For the Sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified butter, see No. 259, and set it to drain before the fire, that it may — harden : serve the crumbs under the Larks when you dish them, and garnish them with slices of Lemon. 12 ‘278 ss * ROASTING. Wheatears—(No. 81) _ Are dressed in same way as Larks. Lobster—(No. 82). dec Receipt for boiling (No. 176). c We give no Receipt for roasting Lobster, Tongue, &eo being of opinion with Dr. King, who says, “¢ By Roasting that which our forefathers Boiled, And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled.” THE COOK’S ORACLE. FRYING. eel To Clarify Drippings—(No. 83). Pour your dripping into a clean sauce-pan over a stove or slow fire; when it is just going to boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let it stand till it is a little cooled, then pour it through a sieve into a pan. Obs. — Well-cleansed Drippings,* and the fat Skim- * Mrs. MELROK, in her Economical Cookery, page 7, tells us, she has ascertained from actual experiments that ‘‘ the Drippings of Roast Meat, combined with Wheat, Flour, Oatmeal, Barley, Pease, or Potato Starch, will make delicious Soup, agreeable and savoury to the Palate, and nutritive and serviceable to the Stomach; and that while a joint is roasting, good Soup may be made from the drippings of the Fat, which is the Lssence of Meat, as seeds are of Vegetables, and impregnates Soup with the identical taste of Meat.” | “ Writers on Cookery give strict directions to carefully shim off the Fat, end in the next sentence order Butter (a much more expen- sive article) to be added — instead of this, when any Fat appears at the top of your Soup or Stew, do not skim it off, but unite it with the broth by means of the vegetable mucilages, Flour, Oatmeal, Ground Barley, or Potato Starch ; when suspended, the Soup is equally agree- able to the palate and nutritive to the Stomach,” &c. “ Cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make Gravies; they stew and boil lean meat for hours, and, after all, their Cookery tastes more of Pepper and Salt than any thing else. If they would add the bulk of a chestnut of solid Far to a common-sized sauce-boatful of Gravy, it will give it more sapidity than twenty hours stewing lean meat would, unless a larger quantity was used than is warranted by the rules of frugality.” See Nos. 205 and 229. “The experiments of Dr. Stark on the nourishing powers of dif. ferent substances, go very far to prove that three ounces of the Fat of Boiled Beef are equal to a pound of the Lean. Dr. Pages, the traveller, confirms this opinion: ‘ Being obliyed,’ says he, ‘ during 180 FRYINGe. mings* of the Broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste: every thing as well as Butter, except game and poultry, and should supply the place of Butter for common fries, &c., for which they are equal'to lard, especially if you re- peat the clarifying twice over. N.B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may pteserve it a fortnight in summer, and longer in ‘winter. When you have done Frying, let the dripping stand a few minutes to settle, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean Basin or stone Pan, and it will do a second and_a third time as . well as it did the first,—only the Fat you have fried Fish ~ in must not be used for any other purpose. To clarify Suet to fry with—(No. 84). Cut Beef or Mutton-suet. into thin slices, pick out all the veins and skins, &c., put it into a thick and well-tinned sauce-pan, and set it over a very slow stove, or in an oven, till it is melted ; you must not hurry it, —if not done very slowly it will acquire a burnt taste, which you cannot get rid of ;—then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean brown pan. When quite cold, tie a paper over it, and keep it for use. Hog’s lard is prepared in the same way. Obs. —The waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion of over-feeding Cattle till the Fat is nearly equal to the lean, may, by good management, be in some mea- sure prevented — by cutting off the superfluous part, and preparing it as above, or by making it into Puddings ; see Nos. 551 and 554, or Soup, No. 229. the journey from North to South America by land, to live solely on Animal food, I experienced the truth of what is observed by Hunters, who live solely on Animal food, viz. that besides their receiving little nourishment from the leaner parts of it, it soon becomes offensive to _ the Taste ; whereas the Fat is both more nutritive, and continues to, be agreeable to the Palate. To many Stomachs Fat is unpleasant and indigestible, especially when converted into oil by heat ; this may be easily prevented, by the simple process of combining the Fat com- pletely with water, by the intervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting Butter, by means of flour, the Butter and Water are united into a homogeneous fluid. °”—From Practical Economy, by a Physician. Callow, 1801. * See Note at foot of No. 201. FRYING. 18% . Steaks —(No. 85). Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put some Butter, or No. 83, into an iron frying-pan, and when it is hot, lay in the steaks, and keep turning them till they are done enough. For Sauce, see No. 356, and for the accompaniments, No. 94. Obs. — Unless the Fire be prepared on purpose, we like this way of cooking them ; the gravy is preserved, and the ‘meat is more equally dressed, and more evenly browned ; which makes it more relishing, and invites the eye to en- courage the Appetite. ' Beef-Steaks and Onions — (No. 86. See also No. 501.) Fry the Steaks according to the directions given in the preceding receipt; and have ready for them some Onions prepared as directed in No. 299. For Stewed Rump-Steaks, see Nos. 500 and 501. Sausaces — (No. 87) Are best when quite fresh made. — Put a bit of Butter, or Dripping (No. 83), into a clean Frying-pan ; as soon as. it is melted (before it gets hot) put in the Sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing), fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides,—when they are done, lay them on a hair-sieve, placed before the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying Sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually, they then will not burst, if they are not stale. The common practice to prevent their bursting is to prick them with a fork ; but this lets the gravy out. You may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh butter, and lightly dredge them with flour, and put them: in a cheese-toaster or Dutch-oven for a minute. Some over-economical Cooks insist that no butter or lard, &c. is required, their own fat being sufficient to fry them ;—we have tried it, the Sausages were partially 182 FRYING scorched, oa had that pye-bald appearance that all fried \ - things have when sufficient fat is not allowed. _ Obs.—Poached Eggs (No. 548), . Pease - pudding : (No. 555), and Mashed Potatoes (No. 106), are agreeable — accompaniments to Sausages; and Sausages are as welcome — with Boiled or Roasted Pept x wor VEAL, or BOILED — Tripe (No. 18); so are ready-dressed GERMAN SausaGES, (see Mem. to No. 13); and a convenient, easily digestible, — and invigorating food for the aged, and those whose teeth are defective, as is also No. 503. For Sauce No. 356; to make Mustard, Nos. 369 and 370. N.B. Sausages, when finely chopped, are a delicate “< Bonne Bouche ;” and require very little assistance from — the Teeth to render them quite ready for the Stomach, Sweetbreads full dressed —(No. 88). Parboil them, and let them get cold, then cut them in - pieces, about three quarters of an inch thick — —dip them in the yolk of an Egg, then in fine bread-crumbs (some add Spice, Lemon-peel, and Sweet herbs); put some clean dripping (No. 83) into a frying pan: when it boils, put in . the Sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For Garnish. erisp Parsley; and for Sauce, Mushroom Catchup and melted Butter, or Anchovy sauce, or Nos. 356, 343, or 343*, or Bacon or Ham, as Nos. 526 and 527. Sweetbreads plain — (No. 89). _@ Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean »cloth, flour them, and fry them a delicate brown; take ‘care to drain the fat well from them, and garnish them “with slices of Lemon, and sprigs of Chervil or Parsley, or crisp Parsley (No. 318). For sauce, No. 356, or No..307, and Slices of Ham or Bacon, as No. 526, or No, 527, 0r Forcemeat Balls made.as Nos. 375 and 378. : — ** Take care to have a fresh Sweetbread ;—it spoils | sooner than almost any thing, therefore should be parboiled ~ soon as it comes in. Thas rs called blanching, or setting : Mutton Kidneys (No. 95) are sometimes broiled and Ke up with Sweetbreads. A .FRYING. 183 “Veal Cutlets— (No.'90 and No. 521). _ Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick, trim them, vand flatten them with acleaver; you may fry them in fresh butter, or good drippings (No. 83); when brown on ane ‘side, turn them and do the other; if the fire is very fierce, they must ichange sides oftener. The time they will take ‘depends on the thickness of the Cutlet and the heat of the fire; half an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes. Make some Gravy, by putting the trimmings into a stew- pan with a little soft water, an onion, a roll of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf; stew over a slow fire an hour, then strain it; put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it is melted, mix with itas much flour as will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till. it is all mixed, boil it for five minutes, and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put it to the cutlets; you may add some Browning (No. 322), Mushroom (No. 439), or Walnut Catchup, or Lemon Pickle, &e.; see also Sauces, Nos. 343 and 348. Or, Cut the Veal mto pieces about as big as a crown piece, beat them with a cleaver, dip them in egg beat up witha little salt, and then in fine bread-crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling lard; serve under them some good Gravy or Mushroom Sauce (No. 307), which may be made in five minutes. Garnish with Slices of Ham or Rashers of Bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), or Pork Sausages (No. 87). Obs. —VEAL FORCEMEAT or stuffing (Nos. 374, 375, and 378), Pork Sausages (No. 87), Rashers of Bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), are very relishing accompaniments, fried and sent up in the form of Balls, or Shes, and laid round as a Garnish. - Lamb, or Mutton Chops — (No. 92) Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with crisp parsley (No. 318), and slices of lemon. 184 FRYING. If they are bread-crumbed and covered with buttered. writing-paper, and then broiled , they are called‘ Maintenon Cutlets.” Pork Chops —(No. 93). Cut the Chops about half an inch thick; Trim them neatly (few Cooks have any idea how much credit they — get by this); put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of — butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning — them often till brown all over, they will be done enough in about fifteen minutes; take one upon a plate and try it; — if done, season it with a little finely minced onion, — powdered Sage, and pepper and salt. For Gravy. and Sauce, see Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356. Obs. — A little powdered Sage, &c. strewed over them, — will give them, a nice relish, or the spel Powder in © No. 51, or Forcemeat Sausages like No.3 Do not have them cut too thick, neat sate Chops to — an inch and a quarter, —trim them neatly, beat them flat, have ready some sweet herbs, or Sage and Onion chopped fine, put them in a Stew-pan with a bit of Butter about as big as a walnut, let them have one fry, beat two eggs on a plate with a little salt, add to them the herbs, mix it all well together, dip the chops in one at a time all over, and Ss oats then with bread-crumbs, fry them in hot lard or drippings. _ till they are a light brown. ~ Obs. — Veal, Lamb, or Mutton Chops, are very good: dressed in like manner. To fry Fish, see No. 145. N.B. To Fry Eees and OmMELETTES, and other things, see No. 545, and the Index. THE | COOK’S ORACLE. BROILING. | | Chops or Steaks * — (No. 94). To Strw them, see No. 500,—ditto with Onions, No. 50f. Those who are nice about Steaks, never attempt to have them, except in weather which permits the meat to be hung tall it is tender —and give the Butcher some days’ notice of their wish for them. If, friendly Reader, you wish to entertain your Mouth with a Superlative Beef- Steak, you must have the inside of the Sirloin cut into Steaks.. The next best Steaks are those cut from the middle of a Rump, that has been killed at least four days in moderate weather, —much longer in ~ cold weather,—when they can be cut about six inches long, four inches wide, and half an inch thick: do not — beat them, which vulgar trick breaks the cells in which the Gravy of the meat is contained, and it becomes dry and tasteless. ‘ } / * The season for these is from the 29th of September to the 25th of March ; to ensure their being tender when out of season, STEW THEM as in Receipt No. 500. TO WARM UP COLD RUMP-STEAKS. Lay them in a stew-pan, with one large Onion cut in quarters, six berries of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, cover the Steaks with boiling water, let them stew gently one hour, thicken the liquor with Flour and Butter rubbed together on a plate ; if a pint of gr avy, about one ounce of Flour and the like weight of Butter will do; put it into the stew-pan, shake it well over the fire for five minutes, and it is ready; lay the Steaks and Onions on a dish, and pour the gravy — through a sieve over them. 7 186 BROILING. - N.B. If your Butcher sends Steaks which are not Tender, we do not insist that you should object to let him be Beaten. . Desire the Butcher to cut them of even thickness; if he — does not, divide the thicker from the thinner pieces, and give them time accordingly. Take care to have a very clear brisk fire, throw a little - salt on it, make the Gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat from dropping into the fire, and making a — smoke. It requires more practice and care than is gene- rally supposed to do Steaks to a nicety; and for want of — these little attentions, this very common dish, which every © ‘body is supposed capable of dressing, seldom comes to table in perfection. Ask those you Cook for, if they like it wnder, or thoroughly done; and what accompaniments they like best; —it is usual to put a table-spoonful of Catchup (No. 439), or a little minced Eschalot, or No. 402, into a dish before the fire ; while you are broiling, turn the Steak, — &c. with a pair of Steak-tongs, — it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes; rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with Pickles and finely scraped Horse- radish. Nos. 135, 278, 299, 255, 402, 423, 439, and 356, are the Sauces usually composed for Chops and Steaks. N.B. Macsetn’s Receipt for Beef-Steaks is the best — — “when *tis done, ’twere well If ’twere done quickly.” Obs. —‘* Le Véritable Birrecx, comme il se fart en Angleterre,” as Mons. Beauvilliers calls (in his l’Art du Cursinier, tom. i. 8vo. Paris, 1814, p. 122) what He says, We call “ Romesteck,” —is as highly esteemed by our French neighbours, as their “‘ Ragotts” are by our Coun- trymen, who “ post to Paris go, Merely to taste their Soups, and Mushrooms know.” Kine’s Art of Cookery, p. 79. These lines were written before the establishment of Axzion Houses, Aldersgate Street, where every luxury that Nature and Art produce, is served of the primest BROILING? 187 mality, and in the most scientific manner— in a style of mincely magnificence and perfect comfort— the Wines, aiqueurs, &c. are superlative, and every department of he business of the Banquet is conducted in the most iberal manner. - _ The French author whom we have before so often quoted, assures les Amateurs de Bonne Chére on the other side of the Water, it is well worth their while to cross the Channel to taste this favourite English dish, which, when “ mortifée ad son point” and well dressed, he says, is su- petior to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisian kitchen. — Almanach des Gourmands, vol. i. p. 27. Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious Animal’ Food, and is entitled to the same rank among solid, that Brandy is among liquid Stimuli. The celebrated Trainer, Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny Park, Bart., in his Book on Wrestling, 4to. 3d Edit. 1727, p. 10, &c., greatly prefers BEEF-EATERS to Sheep-Biters, as he called those who ate Mutton. When Humphries the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the Keeper of Ipswich Jail, he was at first fed on Beef, but got so much flesh, it was changed for Mutton, roasted, or broiled: —when broiled, great part of the nutritive juices of the meat is extracted. radar ee The principles upon which rraininc* is conducted, resolve themselves into Temperance without abstemious- ness, and Exercise without fatigue. Kidneys—(No. 95). Cut them through the long way, — score them, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on them, and run a wire.skewer through them to keep them from curling on the Gridiron, so that they may be evenly broiled. Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till they are done; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, if the fire is brisk: or Fry them in Butter, and make *See “Tur Art or INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE,” | by the Editor of “ Tur Coox’s Oracie.” Published by G. B. Whittaker, No. 13, Ave Maria Lane. 188 BROILING. gravy for them in the pan (after you have taken out the kidneys), by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour; as soon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will make gravy; they will take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For Sauce, Nos. 318, 355, and 356. : Obs.—Some Cooks chop a few Parsley-leaves very fine, and mix them with a bit of fresh butter and a little Pepper and Salt, and put a little of this mixture on each Kidney. A Fowl or Rabbit, &c.—(No. 97). We can only recommend this method of dressing when the Fire is not good enough for roasting. . Pick and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it open down the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season it with a little pepper and salt, have a clear fire, and set the gridiron at a good distance over it, lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire (you may egg it and strew some grated bread over it), and broil it till it is a fine brown — take care the fleshy side is not burnt. Lay it on a hot dish, pickled Mushrooms, or Mushroom Sauce (No. 305), thrown over it, or Parsley and Butter (No. 261), or melted Butter flavoured. with Mushroom Catchup (No. 307). Garnish it with slices of Lemon, and the Liver and Gizzard, slit and notched, and seasoned with pepper and salt, and broiled nicely brown, and some slices of lemon. For Grill sauce, see No. 355. N.B. “ It was a great mode, and taken up by the Court party in Oliver Cromwell’s time, to roast half Capons — pretending they had a more exquisite taste and nutriment than when dressed whole.” — See Joan CrROMWELL’S Kitchen, London, 1664, page 39. Pigeons —(No. 98), To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well grown,. and well fed. Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear slow fire; turn them often, and put a little butter on them: when they are done, pour over them,. ia . BROILING. 189 ither stewed (No. 305) or pickled Mushrooms, or Catchup ind melted Butter (No. 307, or No. 348 or 355). | Garnish with fried Bread- “crumbs or Sippets (No. 319): or, when the Pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the oacks or breasts; season them with pepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of water, and tie them close at both ends; so when they are brought to Table, they bring their Sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with erated bread (mixed with Spice and Sweet herbs, if you please), then lay them on the gridiron, and turn them frequently: if your fire is not very clear, lay | them on a sheet of paper well buttered, to keep them from getting smoked. They are much better broiled whole. The same Sauce as in the preceding receipt, or No. 343 or 348. Vea Cutters (No. 521 and No. 91). Pork Cuors (No. 93). THE ae > COOK’S ORACLE. ‘ VEGETABLES. Srxtezrn Ways or Dressine Poraroers.* (No. 102.) Tue Vegetable Kingdom affords no Food more whole- some, more easily procured, easily prepared, or less ex- pensive than the Potato: yet although this most useful — vegetable is dressed almost every day, in almost every family, —for One plate of potatoes that comes to table as it should, Ten are spoiled. Be careful in your choice of Potatoes; no vegetable varies so much in colour, size, shape, consistence, and flavour. The reddish coloured are better than the white, but the yellowish looking ones are the best. Choose those of a moderate size, free from blemishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould; they must not be wetted tall they are cleaned to be cooked. Protect them from the Air and Frost —by laying them in heaps im a cellar, covering them with mats, or burying them in sand or in earth. The action of Frost is most destructive —if it be considerable, the life of the vegetable is destroyed, and the Potato speedily rots. * < Next to Bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparation of which, as food, deserves to be more attended to, than the Po- tato.” —Sir Joun Sinciair’s Code of Health, vol. i. p. 354. “* By the Analysis of Potato, it appears that 16 ounces contained 114 ounces of water—and the 43 ounces of solid parts remaining afforded scarce a drachm of earths ??_—PARMENTIER’S Obs. on geho tritive Vegetables, 8vo. 1783, p. 112. VEGETABLES. 198 | * Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are ory large, — fill a sauce-pan half full of Potatoes of equal ze* (or make them so by dividing the larger ones), put » them as much cold water as will cover them about an ich : they are sooner boiled, and more savoury, than when rowned in water—most boiled things are spoiled by ving too little water, but Potatoes are often spoiled by 90 much: they must merely be covered, and a little lowed for waste in boiling, so that they may be just overed at the finish. _ Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then take hem off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer lowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork —(place 10 dependence on the usual test of their skins cracking, vhich, if they are boiled fast, will happen to some Potatoes when they are not half done, ‘and the insides quite hard) —then pour the water off (if you let the potatoes remain n the water a moment after they are done enough, they will become waxy and watery), uncover the sauce-pan, and set it at such a distance from the fire as will secure it ‘rom burning; their superfluous moisture will evaporate, ind the Potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy. You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the sauce-pan’s diameter, over the Potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till wanted. Obs.— This method of managing Potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming them; and they are dressed in nalf the time. ; There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of Potatoes, that it is impossible to say how long they will lake doing; the best way is to try them witha fork. Mo- lerate-sized Potatoes will generally be done enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. See Obs. to No. 106. Cold Potatoes fried —(No. 102*). _ Puta bit of clean Dripping into a frying-pan; when it is melted, slice in your Potatoes with a little pepper and * Or the smau onzs will be done to pieces before the LaRcE, ONES are boiled enough. | 192 a a salt, put them:on the fire, Meets atthe them ; ai they ; are quite hot, they are ready. - aOOs. — This is a very good way of re-dressing. Potatoes 7 -—orsee No. 106. . Potatoes boiled and broiled — (No. 103), Dress your Potatoes as before directed, and put them on a gridiron over a very clear and brisk fire ; turn them till” they are brown ail over, and send them up dry, with melted butter in a cup. | Potatoes fried in Slices or Shavings — (No. 104). Peel large Potatoes, slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and round, as you would peel a lemon; dry them well in a clean cloth, ~ and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care that your fat — and frying-pan are quite clean; put it on a quick fire, — watch it, and .as soon as the lard boils, and is still, put in — the slices of potato, and keep moving them till they are ~ crisp; take them up and lay them to drain on a sieve; ~ send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over them. Potatoes fried whole —(No. 105). When nearly boiled enough, as directed in No. 102, put them into a stew-pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef--drippings; shake them about often (for fear of — _ burning them), till they are brown and crisp; drain them ~ from the fat. : Obs. —It will be an elegant improvement to the three — last receipts, previous to frying or broiling the Potatoes, to flour them and dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in fine sifted bread-crumbs; they will then de-— ‘serve to be called PoraATOES FULL DRESSED. Potatoes mashed—(No. 106. See also No. 112). When your Potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain them _ quite dry, pick out every speck, &c., and while hot, rub them through a colander into a clean stew-pan: to a ‘pound of Potatoes put about half an ounce of butter, and VEGETABLES. 198: a Felt eparonatls of mille: do: not make’ them: too moist ; mix them well together. _ Obs. — After Lady-day, when the Potatoes are getting ‘old and specky, and in Frosty weather, this is the best ‘way of dressing them. You may put them into shapes’ or small tea~cups ; egg them: with yolk of Egg, and brown them.very slightly before a slow fire. See No. 108. ‘ ‘Potatoes mashed with Onions — (No. 107). Prepare some boiled onions by putting them through a sieve, and mix them-with Potatoes. In proportioning the Onions to the Potatoes, you will be guided by your wish to have more or less of ‘their flavour. Obs. — See note under No. 555. Potatoes Escalloped—(No. 108). Mash Potatoes as directed in No. 106; then butter some nice clean scollop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or saucers; put in your Potatoes; make them smooth at the top; cross a knife over diem « strew a few fine bread- crumbs on them ;' sprinkle them with a paste-brush with a few drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven ; — when they are browned on the top, take them. carefully out of the shells, and brown the other side. Colcannon — (No. 108*). Boil Potatoes and Greens, or Spinage separately—mash: the Potatoes; squeeze the Greens dry; chop them quite fine, and mix them with the Potatoes with a little butter, pepper, and salt; put it into a mould, buttering it well first ; let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. Potatoes Roasted — (No. 109). Wash and dry your Potatoes (all ofa size), and put them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese-toaster : — take care not to put them too near the fire, or they will get burnt on. the outside before they are warmed through. arge Potatoes will require two hours to roast them. N.B. To saye time and trouble, some Cooks half boil them first. K 194 VEGETABLES. This is one of the best opportunites the Baker has to rival the Cook. Potatoes Roasted under Meat — (No. 110), Pi . Half boil large Potatoes, — drain the water from them, and put them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under Meat that is roasting, and baste them with some of the dripping :—when they are browned on one side turn them and brown the other; send them up round the meat, or in a small dish. Potato Balls —(No. 111). Mix mashed Potatoes with the yolk of an egg; roll. them into balls ; flour them, or egg and bread-crumb them; and fry them in clean drippings, —or brown them in a — Dutch oven. Potato Balls Ragott —(No. 112) Are made by adding to a pound of Potatoes a quarter — of a pound of grated ham, or some sweet herbs, or chopped ~ parsley, an onion or eschalot, salt, pepper, and a little grated — nutmeg, or other spice, with the yolk of a couple of eggs : they are then to be dressed as No, 111. Obs.— An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good supper- dish. Potato Snow — (No, 114). The Potatoes must be free from spots, and the whitest you can pick out; put them on in cold water; when they begin to crack strain the water from them, and put them into a clean stew-pan by the side of the fire till they are quite dry, and fall to pieces; rub them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb them afterwards. Potato Pie — (No. 115). Peel and slice your Potatoes very thin into a pie-dish; between each layer of Potatoes put a little chopped onion (three quarters of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound of Potatoes); between each layer sprinkle a little pepper VEGETABLES. 195 nd salt; put in a little water, and cut about two ounces f fresh butter into. little bits, and lay them on the top: sover it close with puff paste. It will take about an hour ind a half to bake it. | _N.B. The Yolks of four Eggs (boiled hard) may be added ; and when baked, a table-spoonful of good Mush- coom Catchup poured in through a funnel. _ Obs. —Cauliflowers divided into mouthsful, and Button Onions, seasoned with Curry Powder, &c. make a favourite Vegetable Pie. New Potatoes —(No. 116). The best way to clean New Potatoes is to rub them with ‘a coarse cloth or a flannel, or scrubbing-brush, and proceed as in No. 102. | _ N.B. New Porarozs are poor, watery, and insipid, till they are full two inches in diameter: they are not worth the trouble of boiling before Midsummer Day. _ Obs. —Some Cooks prepare Sauces to pour over Po- ‘tatoes, made with butter, salt, and pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and catchup; or stew the Potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with pepper and salt; or bake them with herrings or sprats, mixed with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet herbs, vinegar, and water; or cut mutton or beef into slices, and lay them in a stew-pan, and on them potatoes and spices, then another layer of the meat alternately, pouring in a little - water, covering it up very close, and stewing slowly. Potato Mucilage (a good substitute for Arrow Root), No. 448. . Jerusalem Artichokes —(No. 117) Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just before directed for potatoes. _ N.B. They should be covered with thick melted butter, or a nice White or Brown Sauce. Cabbage —(No. 118). — Pick Cabbages very clean, and wash them thoroughly ; ‘then look them: over carefully again ; quarter them if they 196 . VEGETABLES. - are very large. Put: them into a sauce-pan with plenty of boiling, water ; if any scum rises, take it off; put a large spoonful of salt into the sauce-pan, .and boil them till the stalks feel tender. A Young Cabbage will take about twenty minutes, or half an hour--when Full Grown, ‘near an hour: see that they are well covered with water all the time, and that no smoke or dirt arises from: stirring the: fire. With careful management, they will look as Beau- tiful when dressed. as they did when growing. . Obs. — Some Cooks say that it will much. aitelionatil the flavour of strong old Cabbages.to boil them in two waters; 7. e. when they are half done to take them out, and put them directly into another sauce-pan of boiling: water, instead of continuing them im the water into: vere they were first put. ; Boiled Cabbage fried — (No. 119). See Receipt for Bubble and Squeak. Savoys —(No. 120) ok boiled in the same manner ; quarter them when you send them to table. Sprouts and Young Greens— (No. 121). _ The Receipt we have, written: for Cabbages will answer as well. for Sprouts, only they will be boiled enough: im fifteen or twenty minutes. Spinage — (No. .122).. | Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and washed in three or four waters; when perfectly clean, lay it on a sieve or colander, to dinin the water from it. Put a sauce-pan on the fire three parts filled with water,. and large enough for the Spinage to float im it;. put a small handful of salt in it; let-it boil; skim it, and them put in the Spinage; make it boil as quick as possible till. quite tender, pressing the Spinage down frequently that it may be, done. equally; it will be enough in about’ ten minutes, if boiled. i in plenty of water :. if the-Spinage is. a VEGETABLES. 197 ittle old, give it a few minutes longer. When done, strain ton the back of a sleve; squeeze it dry with a plate, or yetween two trenchers ; chop it fine, and put it into :a stew- yan with a bit of butter and a little salt: a little cream is 1 great improvement, or instead of either some rich Gravy. Spread it in a dish, and score it into squares of proper size to help at table. Obs.—Grated nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon-juice, is a favourite addition with some cooks, and is added when you stir it up in the stew-pan with the butter garnished, pene is frequently served with Poached Eggs with fried 1 Asparagus —(No. 123), _ Set a stew- -pan with plenty of water. in it on the fire; sprinkle a handful of salt in its Jet it boil, and skim it; then put in your Asparagus, prepared thus : — Serape all the stalks till they are perfectly clean; throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them; when they are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a quarter of a hundred each, with bass, if you can get it, or tape; string cuts them to pieces: cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all of a length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green part; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be in from twenty to thirty qainutes, they are done enough. Great caremust be taken to watch the exact tume of their becoming tender; take them up just at that instant, and they will have their true paw and colour :—a minute or two more boiling dente ye oth While the ~ eos is boiling, toast a round of a quar- tern loaf, about half an inch thick ; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly in the liquor the Asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle ofa dish: melt some butter (No. 256); then lay in the Asparagus upon the Toast, which must project beyond the Asparagus, that the company may see there is a Toast. _ Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a hale or White Sauce (No. 2 of No. 364). “198 | VEGETABLES. Sea Kale —(No. 124) _ Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same’ way as Asparagus. Cauliflower — (No. 125). Choose those that are close and white, and of the middle . size; trim off the outside leaves; cut the stalk off flat at the Botton’: let them lie in salt and water an hour before : you boil them. : Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in ‘its : skim it well, and let it boil slowly till done, which a small — one will be in fifteen, a large one in about twenty minutes; ; take it up the moment it is enough, a minute or two longer” boiling will spoil it. . _N.B, Cold Cauliflowers and French Beans, Carvots and Turnips, boiled so as to eat rather crisp, are sometimes dressed as a Salad (No. 372 or 453). Broccoli — (No. 126). Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, and a sauce= pan on the fire with plenty of water, and a handful of salt” in it. Broccoli is prepared by stripping off all the side shootel 2 _ leaving the top; peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife; cut it close off at the bottom, and put it into the pan of cold water. When the water in the stew-pan boils, and the Broccoli . is ready, put it in; let it boil briskly till the stalks feel — tender, from ten to twenty minutes ;—take it up with a "slice, that you may not break it; let it drain, and serve | u “a Pie some of the heads of Broccoli are much Libeub than the others, put them on to boil first, so that they may get all done together. - Obs.—It makes a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like Asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable, and you must take it up‘the moment it is done,. and Send it to: table hot. | VEGETABLES. 199 Red Beet-Roots —(No. L2G rig Are not so much used as they deserve; they are dressed ‘im the same way as Parsneps, only neither scraped nor cut till after they are boiled: they will take from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling, according to their size,— to be sent to table with Salt Fish, Boiled Beef, &c. When young, large, and juicy, it is a very good variety, —an excellent garnish,—and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant pickle. , Parsneps —(No. 128) Are to be cooked just in the same manner as Carrots; they require more or less time, according to their size, — therefore match them in size; and you must try them by thrusting a fork into them as they are in the water; when that goes easily through, they are done enough ; boil them from an hour, or two hours, according to their size and freshness. . . Obs.—Parsneps are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as Turnips, and some Cooks quarter them before they boil them. Carrots —(No. 129). Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped: an hour is enough for young spring carrots; grown carrots must be cut in half, and will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done, rub off the peels ‘with a clean coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. The best way to try if they are done enough, is to pierce them with a fork. Obs. — Many people are fond of cold Carrot with cold Beef; ask if you shall cook enough for some to be left to send up with the cold meat. . _ _Turnips— (No. 1380). Peel off half an inch of the. stringy outside; full-grown turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling ; if you slice them, which most people do, they will be done "200 VEGETABLES. sooner; try them with a fork,— when tender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly — drained from them: send them up whole; do. not slice them. J N.B. To very young Turnips leave about two inches of ‘the Green Top. See No. 132, To Mash Turnips — (No. 131). When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as dry -as possible between two trenchers; put.them into a sauce- pan; mash them with a wooden spoon, and rub them | through a colander; add_.a little bit.of butter ; keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with them, — and they are ready for table. ‘ Turnip-Tops —(No. 132) Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the ‘old turnip roots. Put them into cold water an hour before they are to be dressed; the more water they are boiled in, the better they will look ; if boiled in a small quantity of ‘water they will taste bitter: when the water boils, put in a small handful of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and young, they will be done in about twenty minutes ; drain them on the back of a:sieve. French Beans—(No. 133). ‘Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to. the point and strip off the strings: —Jf not quite fresh, have a bowl of spring-water, with a little salt dissolved in it, ‘standing before you, and as the beans are cleaned and stringed, throw them in: — when all are done, put them -on the fire in boiling water, with some salt m it; after they have boiled fifteen or twenty minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon as they are tender take them up, throw them into a colander or sieve to drain. To send up the beans whole is much the best method when they are thus young, and their delicate flavour and colour are much better preserved. When a little more grown, they must be cut across in two after stringing; and for common tables they are split, and divided across; cut NEGETABLES. 208 ‘aem all the same length, but those who ave nice never _ave them at such.a:growth as to require splitting. _ When they are very large they look ‘pretty cut into sozenges. | Obs..—See.N.B.to.No. 125. Green Pease* —(No. 134). Young Green Pease, well dressed, are one .of the most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. . They must be young; it is equally indispensable that they be fresh gathered and cooked as soon as they are shelled, for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness. Sf you wish to feast upon PEASE IN PERFECTION, you must have them gathered the same.day they are dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled. Pass them through a riddle, 7, e. a coarse sieve, which is made for the purpose of separatmg them. This pre- caution is necessary, for large and small pease cannot be boiled together, as the former will take more time than the latter. . For a peck of pease, set on a sauce-pan with a gallon of water im it; when it boils, put in your pease, with a table-spoonful of salt, — skim it well, keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size: the best way to judge of their being-done enough, and indeed the only way to make sure of cooking them to, and not beyond, the point of perfection, or, as Pea-eaters say, of “ borling them to a bubble,” is to take them out. with a spoon and taste them. : When they are done enough, drain them on a hair-sieve. Tf you like them buttered, put them into a pie-dish, divide some butter into small bits, and lay them on the pease: put another dish over them, and turn them over and over, this will melt the butter through them; but as all people * These and all other fruits and vegetables, &c., by Mr. APPERT’S plan, it is said, may be preserved for twelve months.—See APPERT’S Book, 12mo, 1812. We have eaten of several specimens of preserved. ay eae ea looked pretty enough,—but flavour they had none at H ay EEA K -2 202 - VEGETABLES. do not like buttered pease, you had better send them to table plain, as they come out of the sauce-pan, with melted butter (No. 256) in a sauce-tureen. It is usual to. boil some Mint with the Pease; but if you wish to garnish the Pease with Mint, boil a few sprigs in a sauce-pan b themselves. See Sage ; and Onion. Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. 458). To boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham ‘and Bacon (No. 526), and Relishing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527). N.B. A Peck of young Pease will not yield more than enough for a couple of hearty Pea-eaters,—when the pods are full, it may serve for three. Mrm.— Never think of purchasing Pease ready- shelled, for the cogent reasons assigned in the first Ve of this receipt. ‘ Cucumber Stewed — (No. 135). Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water : when they are dry, flour and fry them in fresh butter; let the butter be quite hot before you put in the cucumbers; fry them till they are brown, then take them out with an egg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them (some Cooks fry sliced Onions, or some small Button Onions, with them, till they are a delicate light-brown colour, drain them from the fat, and then put them into a stew-pan, with as much gravy as will cover them): stew slowly till they are tender; take out the cucumbers with a slice, thicken the Gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up, season it with pepper and salt, and put in the cucumbers ; as soon as they are warm, they are ready. The above, rubbed through a Tamis, or fine sieve, will be entitled to be called ‘‘ CucumBEr Sauce.” See ‘No. 399, Cucumber Vinegar. This is a very favourite sauce with lamb or mutton-cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. &c.; when made for the latter, a third part of sliced onion is sometimes fried with the cucumber. Artichokes — (No. 136). Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let VEGETABLES. . 203 them boil gently till they are tender, which will;take‘an hour and a half, or two hours; the surest way to know when they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; trim them and drain them on a sieve; and send up melted butter with them, which some put into small cups, so that each guest may have one. | Stewed Onions — (No. 137). The large Portugal Onions are the best; take off the top-coats of half a dozen of these (taking care not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or the onions will go to pieces), and put them into a stew-pan broad. enough to hold them without laying them atop of one another, and just cover them with good broth. . Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two hours; when you dish them, turn them upside down, and pour the sauce over. Young Onions Stewed, see No. 296. Salads — (No. 138*, also No. 372). Those who desire to see this subject elaborately illus- trated, we refer to “‘ Evyiyn’s Acetaria,” a discourse of Sallets, a 12mo of 240 pages. London, 1699. Mr. E. gives us “an account of seventy-two herbs pro- per and fit to make Sallet with,’— and a table of thirty- Jive, telling their seasons and proportions. ‘ In the com- posure of a Sallet, every plant should come in to bear its part, like the Notes in Music: thus the comical Master Coox introduced. by Damoxenus, when asked, ‘ what Har- mony there was in Meats?’ —‘ the very same,’ says he, ‘as the 3d, 5th, and 8th have to one another in music — the main skill lies in this, not to mingle (‘ sapores minime consentientes’) ‘ Tastes not well joined —inelegant,’ as our Paradisian Bard directs Eve when dressing a sallet for her Angelical Guest,—in Mitron’s Paradise Lost.” He gives the following Receipt for the OxoLEON :-— *“*.Take of clear and perfectly good Oyl-Olive three parts — of sharpest Vinegar (sweetest of all Condiments, for it incites appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best sauce), Limon, or juice of Orange, one part — and therein * 4204 VEGETABLES. det. steep ‘some | slices of Horseradish, with :a ‘little Salt: ‘some, in a.separate Vinegar, gently bruise a pod of : Pepper, and strain it to the other—then add as much Mustard as will lie upon.a half-crown piece. Beat and mingle these well together with the yolk of two new-laid Eggs boiled hard, and pour it over your Sallet, ‘stirring it well together. The super-curious insist that the knife with which Sallet herb is cut must be of Silver,—some who are husbands of their Oyl, pour-at first the Oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the Acids, which they pour on last of all; and it is incredible how small a quantity of ‘Oyl thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful assembly of Sallet Herbs.” | Obs.— Our own directions to prepare and dress Salads _awill be found under No. 372. : ; “THE COOK'S ORACLE. ‘See Ows. on Cod Fish after No. 149. FISH. 3 Turbot to Boil—(No. 140). [ats excellent Fish is in season the greatest part of the Summer,—when good it is at oncé firm and tender, and abounds with rich gelatinous nutriment. Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh, by rubbing it lightly with salt, and keeping it in.a.cold place, you may in moderate weather preserve it for a couple of days.* “a hour or two before you dress zt, soak it in spring- water with some salt mm it,—— then score the skin across the * % J have ascertained, by many years’ observation, that a Turbot kept two or threedays is much better eating than a very fresh one.”’ —Unr’s Cookery, p. 238. “Turnots. The finest brought to the London market are caught off the Dutch coast, or German ocean, and are brought in well-boats alive. The commencement of the season is generally about March and April, and continues all the summer. Turbots, like other fish, do not spawn all at the same time; therefore there is always good and bad nearly all the year round. For this year or two past, there has been an immense quantity brought ‘to London, from all parts, and of all qualities: a great many from a new fishery off Hartlepool, which are very handsome-looking Turbot, but by no Means equal to what are caught off the Dutch coast. Many excele lent Turbots are caught off Dover and Dungeness; and a large quantity brought from Scotland, packed in ice, which are of a very inferior quality, and are generally to be bought for about one-fourth the price of good turbots. “ Brills are generally caught at the same place as turbots, and are generally of the same quality as the turbot, from the different parts.” 206 FISH. ; thickest part of the back, to prevent it breaking on the Breast, which will happen from the fish swelling, and cracking the skin, if this precaution be not used. Puta large handful of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water, lay your fish on a fish-strainer, put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim it well; then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as gently as possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fast, the fish will break to pieces); supposing it a middling-sized Turbot, and to weigh eight or nine pounds. Rub a little of the inside Red Coral:spawn of the Lob- ster through a hair sieve, without butter; and when the Turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled Parsley, sliced Lemon, and finely scraped Horseradish. - " If you like to send it to table in Full Dress, surround it with nicely Fried Smelts (No. 173),—Gupeerons are often used for this purpose, and may be bought very cheap when Smelts are very dear; lay the largest opposite the broadest part of the Turbot, so that they may form a well-propor- tioned fringe for it, — or Oysters (No. 183*),— or cut a Sole in strips, crossways, about the size of a Smelt; fry them as directed in No. 145, and lay them round. Send up Lobster sauce (No. 284), two boats of it, if it is for a large party. N.B. Cold Turbot, with No. 372 for Sauce ; or take off the Fillets that are left as soon as the Turbot returns from Table, and they will make a side dish for your next dinner, warmed in No. 364—2. Obs. — The thickest part is the favourite ; and the Carver of this Fish must remember to ask his friends if they are _Fin-Fanciers. It will save a troublesome Job to the Carver, if the Cook, when the Fish is boiled, cuts the spine- “bone “across the middle. A Brill — (No..143). Is dressed the same way as a Turbot. Soles to Boil — (No..144). A fine fresh Tuick SOLE is almost: as good eating as'a Turbot. FISH. 207 Wash and clean-it nicely ; put it into a fish-kettle with ‘a handful of salt, and as much cold water as will cover it; set it on the side of the fire, take off the scum as it rises, and let it boil gently, about five minutes (according to its size) will be long enough, unless it be very large. Send it lap on a fish-drainer, garnished with slices of Lemon and ‘sprigs of curled Parsley, or nicely fried Smelts (No. 173), lor Oysters (No. 183).. : ' Obs.—Slices of Lemon are‘a universally acceptable gar- nish with either fried or broiled fish:—a few Sprigs of crisp Parsley may be added, if you wish to make it look ‘very smart; and Parsley, or Fennel and Butter, are excel- ident sauces (see Nos. 261 and 265), or Chervil sauce | (No. 264), Anchovy (No. 270). . - N.B: Bortzep Soxes are very good. warmed up like | Eels, Wiggy’s way (No. 164), or covered with White | Sauce (No. 364—2; and see No. 158). |. SOLES, OR OTHER Fisu, ro Fry —(No..145). : Soles are generally to be procured good from some part. of the coast, as some are going out of season, and some coming in, both at the same time; a great many are brought in well-boats, alive, that are caught off Dover and Folk- stone, and some are brought from the same places by land- carriage. The finest Soles are caught off Plymouth, near the Eddystone, and all the way up the Channel, and to Torbay; and frequently weigh eight or ten pounds per pair: they are generally brought by water to Portsmouth, and thence by land; but the greatest quantity are caught eff Yarmouth and the Knole, and off the Forelands. _ Be sure they are quite fresh, or the cleverest Cook cannot. make them either look or eat well. An Hour before you intend to dress them, wash them thoroughly, and wrap them in a clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or the Bread-crumbs will not stick to them. Prepare some Bread-Crumbs,* by rubbing some. stale: * A large pair of Soles will take the fourth part of a quartern loaf, which now costs two-pence halfpenny. Oatmrat is a good substi-- tute for Bread-~Crumbs — and costs comparatively nothing !! “208 FISH. bread through a -If you wish ro MaKe Soup THE saME Day you Bort Meat orn. Poutrry, prepare the Pease the same as for Pease Pudding (No. 555), to which you may add an Onion and a head of Celery, when you rub the pease through the sieve ;—instead of putting Eggs and Butter, add some of the liquor from the pot to make it a proper thickness ;— put it on to’boil for five minutes, and it is ready. Ons.—This latter is by far the easiest, and the best way of making Pease Soup. ae Pease Soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate, without any Meat, by incorporating two ounces of fresh and nicely clarified Beef, Mutton, or Pork drippings (see No. 83), with two ounces of Oatmeal, and mixing this well into the gallon of Sonp, made as above directed : see also No, 229. Pease Soup and Pickled Pork—(No. 220). . A couple of pounds of the belly part of Pickled Pork will make very good broth for Pease Soup, if the pork be not too salt,—if it has been in salt more than two days, it must be laid in water the night before it is used. Put on the ingredients. mentioned in No. 218, in three quarts of water; boil gently for two hours, then put in the pork, and boil very gently till it is done enough to eat; this’ will take about an hour.and a half, or two hours longer, according to its thickness ;—-when done, wash the pork _ clean in hot water, send it up in a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the Soup in the tureen, with the accompaniments ordered in No. 218. Obs.— The meat being boiled no longer than to be done enough to be eaten, you get Excellent Soup, without any expense of Meat destroyed. new dish, and the British Parliament have given notoriety to inven- tions of much less importance than ‘ Curry Pease Soup.’ ”’ N.B. Celery, or Carrots,—or Turnips,—shredded or cut in squares, (or Scotch Barley—in the latter case the soup must be rather thinner,) or cut into bits about an inch long, and boiled separately, and thrown into the tureen when the soup is going to table, will give another agreeable variety, and may be called CELERY AND PEasE Soup. Read Oss. to No, 214. M 2 250 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. _ © In’ Canada the inhabitants live three-fourths of the year on Pease Soup, prepared with Salt Pork, which is boiled till the fat is entirely dissolved amongst the soup, giving it a rich flavour.” — The Hon. J. CocuRann’s Seaman’s Guide, 8vo. 1797, p. 31. Pratin Peasz Soup—(No, 221). : To a quart of split Pease, and two heads of Celery, “(and most Cooks would put a large Onion,) put three quarts of Broth or soft water; let them simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours, stirring up every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning at the bottom of the soup-kettle,—(if the water boils away and the Soup gets too thick, add some boiling water to it);—-when they are well softened, work them through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine sieve or a tamis, wash out your stew-pan, and then return the Soup into it, and give it a boil up; take off any scum that comes up, and it is ready. Prepare fried Bread, and dried. Mint, as directed in No. 218, and send them up with it on two side dishes. . Ols.—This is an excellent Family Soup, produced with very little trouble or expense,—2. e. si"d. Quart of Pease............ 0 8 Two Heads of Celery.... 0 2 Pepper and Salt........... 0 1 Dred.’ Mi onc: oacsnnee oa 0 1 1 0 So, the Two Quarts cost Onze Snittine ; —half a drachm of bruised Celery Seed, which costs only one-third of a farthing, and a little Sugar, added just before finish- ing the Soup, —will give It as much flavour as Two Heads of the fresh Vegetable. Most of the Receipts for Pease-Soup are crowded with ingredients which entirely overpower the flavour of the Pease. See No. 555. Asparagus Soup—(No. 222). This is made with the points of Asparagus, in the same BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 251 ‘manner as the Green Pease Soup (No. 216 or 17) is with pease: let half the Asparagus be rubbed through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about an inch long, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in the-soup: to make two quarts, there must be a pint of heads to thicken it, and half a pint cut in, — take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup is sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to common Pease soup. ~0bs.—Some Cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a little butter, and rub it through a sieve, and add it with the other ingredients,—the haut goét of the onion will entirely over- come the delicate flavour of the Asparagus, and we pro- test against all such combinations. Maiere, or Vegetable Gravy Soup*—(No. 224). Put into a gallon stew-pan three ounces of butter; set it over a slow fire; while it is melting, slice four ounces of Onion ; cut in small pieces one Turnip, one Carrot, and a head of Celery; put them in the stew-pan, cover it close, let it fry till they are lightly browned ; this wall take about twenty-five minutes : — have ready, in a sauce-pan, a pint of Pease, with four quarts of water ; when the Roots in the stew-pan are quite brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the pease and water to them, put it on the fire, when it boils skim it clean, and put in a crust of bread about as big as the top of a two-penny loaf, twenty-four berries of All- spice, the same of Black Pepper, and two blades of Mace ; cover it close, — let it s¢mmer gently for one hour and a half, then set it from. the fire for ten minutes, then pour it off very gently (so as not to disturb the sediment at the _ bottom of the stew-pan) into a large basin, let it stand (about two hours) till it is quite clear,—while this is doing, shred one large Turnip, the red part of a large Carrot, three ‘ounces of Onion minced, and one large head of Celery cut into small bits; put the Turnips and Carrots on the fire in * The French call this “ Soup Maigre,’—the English acceptation of which is, ‘‘ poor and watery,” and does not at all accord with the French, which is, Soups, &c. made without meat—thus, TurRTLE, the riehest dish that comes to an English table (if dressed without Meat Gravy), is a Maigre Dish. 252 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. cold water, let them boil five minutes, then drain them on a sieve,— then pour off the Soup clear into a stew-pan, put in ~ the Roots, put the Soup on the fire, let it simmer gently till ~ the herbs are tender, from thirty to forty minutes, season it» with salt and a little Cayenne, and it is ready. ous You may add a table-spoonful of Mushroom Gaictes (No. 439). Obs.—You will have Three Quarts of Soup, as a coloured, and almost: as well flavoured, as if made: with Gravy Meat, for 1s. 13d. iS. a Carrotes.sisdd01 eho. 0%1 T'ULDIPS 0 igs cerokeead 0 1 CHELY. cn. oiegeaee 0 2 Pease) sires .-0 3 OniOnsi.2.. saves toe 0 Of Fiuttetyy Occurs 0 3 Spice, Salt, &c.. 4s. 0 3 1 i NB To ‘inake thi nis it requires nearly #zve Hours. To Fry the herbs requires twenty-five minutes,—to Bod all together, one hour and a half,—to settle, at ‘the least, two hours,—when clear, and put on the fire again, half an hour more. Fisn Soups—(No. 225). Kel Soup. To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized Onions, cut them in half, and cross your knife over them two or three times; put two ounces of Butter into a stew- pan; when it is melted, put in the Onions, stir them about till they are lightly browned,—cut into pieces three pounds of unskinned Eels, put them into your stew-pan, and shake them over the fire for five minutes; then add three quarts of boiling water, and when they come to a boil, take the scum off very clean, then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green leaves (not dried) of Winter Savoury, the same of Lemon Thyme, and twice the quantity of Parsley, two drachms of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, —cover it close, and let it boil gently for two hours, then strain it BROTHS, sai iain: ‘AND SOUPS. 259 off, and skim it very clean. To ee it, put three ounces of Butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will make jit of a stiff paste, then add the liquor by degrees, let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve, then put your Soup on ina clean stew-pan—and have ready some little square pieces of Fish fried of a nice light brown,—either Eels, Soles, Plaice, or Skate will do ;—the fried Fish should be added about ten minutes before the Soup is served up. Force- meat Balls (Nos. 375, 378, &c.) are sometimes added. -Obs.— EXcELLENT Fisu Sours may be made with a Cod’s Skull,—or Skate,—or Flounders, &c. boiled in no more water than will just. cover them,—and the ade thickened with Oatmeal, &c. ; - CHEAP Sours—(No. 229). Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for ‘* Bettering the condition of the Poor,” a more ‘useful or extensive Charity cannot be devised, than that of in- structing them in Economical Cookery :—it is one of the most important objects to which the attention of any real well-wisher to the public interest can possibly be directed. The best and cheapest method of making a nourishing Soup is least known to those who have most need of it ;— it will enable those who have small incomes and large families to make the most of the little they possess, with- out pinching their children of that wholesome nourish-. ment which is necessary for the purpose of rearing them up to maturity in Health and Strength. The labouring classes seldom purchase what are called the coarser pieces of Meat, because they do not know how to dress them, but lay out their money in pieces for roast- ing, &c., of which the bones, &c. enhance the price of the actual meat to nearly a shilling per pound, and the dimz- nution of weight by Roastine amounts to 32 per cent. This, for the sake of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent to an oven to be Bakep; the nourishing parts are evaporated and dried up, zts weight 2s diminished nearly one-third, and all that a poor man can afford to purchase with his week’s earnings, perhaps does not half “254 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. ‘satisfy the appetites of himself and family for a couple of days. | . pokl3 hard-working man cannot get a comfortable meal at home, he soon finds his way to. the Public-house,—the poor wife contents herself with Tea and Bread and Butter, and the children are half starved. | Dr. Kircuiner’s Receipt to make a cheap, nutritive, ? : d and palatable Soup, fully adequate to satisfy Appetite | and support strength, will open a new source to those benevolent Housekeepers who are disposed to relieve the poor,—will shew the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them from being dependent on the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain an abund- ant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and families, for OnE Penny PER Quart. See page 255. For various Economical Soups, see Nos. 204, 239, 240, 224, 221, and Obs. to Nos. 244 and 252, and Nos. 493 and 502. . Obs.— Dripping intended for Soup should be taken out of the pan almost as soon as it has dropped from the meat;—if it is not quite clean, clarify it. See Receipt, No. 83. : Dripping thus prepared is a very different thing from that which has remained in the Dripping-pan all the time the meat has been roasting, and perhaps live coals have dropped into it.* * We copied the following Receipt from The Morning Post, Jan. '1820:— Winter Sour.—(No. 227). 210 lbs. of Beef, fore quarters. |: 12 Bundles of Leeks. 90 Ibs. of Legs of Beef. ‘| 6 Bundles of Celery. 3 Bushels of best Split Pease. 12 lbs. of Salt. . 1 Bushel of Flour. 11 lbs. of Black Pepper. These good ingredients will make 1000 quarts of nourishing and agreeable Soup, at an expense (Establishment avoided) of little less: than 2id. per quart. Of this, 2600 quarts a day have been delivered during the late in- clement weather and the cessation of ordinary employment, at two stations in the parish of Bermondsey, at one penny per quart, by which 600 families have been daily assisted, and. it thankfully re- a ass BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 255 Distrisutine Sour does not answer half so weil as teaching people how to make zt, and emprove their comfort at Home,— the time lost in waiting at the Soup House is seldom less than three hours ; in which time, by any indus- trious occupation, however poorly paid, they could earn more money than the quart of Soup is worth. Dr. Kircurtyer’s Receipt to make a Gallon of Barley Broth for a Groat. See also No, 204. Put four ounces of Scotch Burley (previously washed in cold water), and four ounces of sliced Onions, into five quarts of water;—boil gently for one hour, and pour it into a pan, then put into the sauce-pan from one to two ounces of clean Beef or Mutton Drippings, or melted Suet, (to clarify these, see No. 83) or two or three ounces of Fat Bacon minced; when melted, stir into it four ounces of Oatmeal, rub these together till you make a paste (if this be properly managed, the whole of the fat will combine ‘with the Barley Broth, and not a particle appear on the surface to offend the most delicate sto- mach), now add the Barley Broth, at first a spoonful at a time, then the rest by degrees, stirring it well together till it boils.—To season it, put a drachm of finely pounded Celery, or Cress Seed, or half a drachm of each, and a quarter of a drachm of finely pounded Cayenne (No. 404), or a drachm and a half of Ground Black Pepper, or All- spice, into a tea-cup, and mix it up with a little of the soup, and then pour it into the rest; stir it thoroughly together, let it simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer, season it with salt, and it is ready. The flavour may be varied by doubling the portion of Onions, or adding a clove of Garlic or Eschalot, and leaving out the Celery Seed (see No. 572), or put in- shredded Roots as in No. 224;—or, instead of Oatmeal, thicken it with ground Rice, or Pease, &e., and make it savoury with fried Onions. ceived. Such a nourishment and comfort could not have been pro- vided by themselves separately for four-pence a quart, if at all, and ‘reckoning little for their fire, nothing for their time. 4... GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. ‘This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without variety, soon become less .agreeable. . nev Nothing so completely disarms Poverty of its ‘sting, — as the means of rendering a scanty eae capable of yielding a comfortable variety. Change of Flavour is absolutely necessary—not merely as a matter of pleasure and comfort, but of Health — Toujours Perdrix is a true proverb. This Soup will be much improved, if, instead of water, it be made with the liquor Meat has been boiled in ; — at Tripe, Cow-heel, and Cook-shops, this may be had for little or nothing. This Soup has the advantage of being very soon and easily made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room,—those who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a Savoury and Satisfying Meal is produced by the combination of these cheap and homely ingredients. If the generally received opinion be true, that Animal and Vegetable foods afford nourishment in proportion to the quantity of Oil, Jelly, and Mucilage, that can be ex- tracted from them, — this Soup has strong claims to sige attention of Rational Economists. Craw-Fish Soup — (No. 235). This Soup is sometimes made with Beef, or Veal Broth, or with Fish, in the following manner : — Take Flounders, Eels, Gudgeons, &c., and set them on to boil in cold water ; when it 1s pretty nigh boiling, skim it well;. and to three quarts put in a couple of Onions, and. as many Carrots cut to pieces, some Parsley, a dozen ber- ries of black and Jamaica pepper, and about half a hundred Craw-fish; take off the small claws and shells of the tails; pound them fine, and boil them with the broth about an hour; strain off, and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it,—and if you can get it, the spawn of a lobster ; pound it, ‘and put to the soup; let it simmer very. gently - fora couple of minutes; put in your craw-fish to get hot, and the soup is ready. Obs. —One of my predecessors recommends Craw- 256 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 257 itn POUNDED ALIVE, to sweeten the sharpness of -the Blood. —Vide CLERMONT’s Cookery, p. 5, London, 1776. _ “Undes grands Hommes de Bouche de France,” says :— “Un bon Coulis d’Ecrevisses est le Paradis sur la terre, et digne de la table des Dieux; and of all the tribe of Shell-fish, which our Industry and our Sensuality bring from the bottom of the Sea, the River, or the Pond, the Craw-fish is incomparably the 1 most useful, and the most delicious.” | , Phas Soup — (No. pov h ae _ You must have three fine lively * Young Hen Lobsters, and boil'them, see No. 176; when cold, ‘split the tails; take out the fishy, erack the Slaite: and ‘ent the meat into. mouthfuls: take out the coral, and soft part of the body ; bruise part of the coral ina mortar $ pick out the fish from the chines; beat part of it with the coral, and with this make for¢emeat-balls, finely flavoured with mace or nut- meg, a little grated lemon- -peel, Anchovy. and Cayenne ; pound these with the yolk of an Ege. Have three quarts of Veal Broth; bruise the small legs and the chine, and put them into it, to boil for twenty . minutes, then strain it; and then to thicken it, take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a little Butter and Flour; rub it through a sieve, and add it to the soup with the meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral; let it simmer very gently for ten minutes; do not let it boil, or its fine red colour will immediately fade; turn it into a tureen ; add the juice of a good lemon, and a little Essence of Anchovy. Soup and Bouilli — (No. 238). — See also No. 5. The best parts for this purpose are the Leg or Shin, or, a piece of the middle of a Brisket of Beef, of about seven or eight pounds weight; lay it on a fish-drainer, or when you take it up put a slice under it, which will enable you to place it on the dish entire; put it into a soup-pot or deep stew-pan, with cold water enough to cover it, fal a a Read No. 176. ae BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. quart over; set it on a quick fire to get the scum up, which remove as it rises; then put in two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two large onions, two heads of celery, two or three cloves, and a faggot of parsley and sweet herbs ; set the pot by the side of the fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is just tender enough to eat: this will require about four or five hours. | Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a head or two of celery, into the soup whole, — take them out as soon as they are done enough; lay them on a dish till they are cold; then cut them into small squares : — when the Brrr is done, take it out carefully :—to dish it up, see No. 204, or No. 493; strain the Soup through a hair- ‘Sieve into a clean stew-pan; take off the Fat, and put the — Vegetables that are cut into the Soup, the flavour of which — you may heighten by adding a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup. : If a Tu1cxenep Sovp is preferred, take four large table-spoonsful of the clear Fat from the top of the pot, — and four spoonsful of Flour; mix it smooth together, then by degrees stir it well into the soup, which simmer for ten minutes longer at least,—skim it well, and pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve, and add the Vegetables and Season- ing the same as directed in the clear soup. Keep the Beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to the Soup) with finely chopped Parsley sprinkled on the top, and a Sauce-boat of No. 328. Ox-Head Soup — (No. 329) _ Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold: — therefore, the day before you want this Soup, put half an Ox-Cheek into a tub of cold water to soak for a couple of hours; then break the bones that have not. been broken at'the butcher’s, and wash it very well in warm water; put it into a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim it very clean, and then put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots, a turnip, two large onions, two dozen berries of black pepper, same of allspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS, 259 Jemon-thyme, savoury, and a handful of parsley; cover the soup-pot close, and set it on a slow fire; take off the ‘scum, which will rise when it is coming to a boil, and set’ ‘it by the fire-side to stew very gently for about three hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a fine sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by in a cool place till the next day ; — then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain off the Broth,— tb two quarts of it and the Meat into a clean stew-pan,— et it simmer very gently for half an hour longer, and it is ready. — If you wish it THICKENED (which we do not recommend, — for the reasons given in the 7th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cooktry),—put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, throw in as much flour as will dry it up; when they are all well mixed together, and browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well together ; let it simmer for half an hour longer ; Strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean stew-pan, and put to it the meat of the head, — let it stew half an hour longer, and season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of good wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. See Ox-Cheek Stewed, No. 507. Obs.—Those who wish this Soup still more savoury, &c. for the means of making it so we refer to No. 247. N.B. This is an Excellent and Economical Soup,— 8, PaO ANC es S ei ss cesne reine 1 6 SAS ORG ISS Ss SEI Seta 0 1 a a he Sch a> 0 2 EN ETS ERS ae 0 3 A» SEU aan 5 SARE AIR ean A picts 0 1 Allspice, and Black-Pepper and Salt......... 01. 2 2 And costs those who have not a garden of their own only ‘2s. 2d., and isa good and plentiful dinner for half a dozen people. See also Nos. 204 and 229. If you serve it as Soup for a dozen people, thicken one Tureen, and send up the Meat in that,—and send up the other as a clear Gravy Soup, with some of the carrots and ‘turnips shredded, or cut into shapes. 260 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. Ox-Tail Soup — (No, 240). Three Tails, costing about 7d. each, will make a Tureen of Soup (desire the Butcher to divide them at the joints) ; lay them to soak in warm water, while you, get ready the Vegetables. Put into a gallon stew-pan eight Cloves, two or three Onions, half a drachm of Allspice, and the same of Black Pepper, and the Tails ;* cover them with cold water; skim it carefully, when and as long as you see any scum rise ;— then cover the pot as close as possible, and set it on the side of the tire to keep gently simmering ¢2ll the meat becomes tender and will leave the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with a spoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork; see N.B. to No. 244; this will require about two hours: mend zt 2s not done too much: when perfectly tender, take out the meat and cut it off the bones, in neat mouthfuls; skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve: ——if you prefer a THICKENED Soup, put flour and butter, as directed in the preceding Re- ceipt,—or put two table-spoonsful of the Fat you have taken off the Broth into a clean stew-pan, with as much flour as will make it into a paste; set this over the fire, and stir them well together; then pour in the Broth by degrees, stirring it, and mixing it with the thickening; —let it simmer for another half hour, and when you have well skimmed it, and it is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into a clean stew-pan, put in the Meat, with a table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), a glass of Wine, and season it with salt. For increasing the Pzquance of this Soup, read No. 247, Obs.—See N.B. to No. 244: if the Meat is cut off the Bones, you must have three Tails for a Tureen, see N.B. to No. 244: some put an Ox-Cheek or Tails in an earthen pan, with all the ingredients as above, and send them to a slow oven for five or six hours. * Some lovers of haut gout fry the Tails before they put he into the Soup-pot. » BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 261 _-N.B. This is almost as economical as the preceding Soup : — Sa. Ae | a AE PO ee ee 1 9 PTMIOMG ANG SPIO oid. ase cheeses se hese ssn cee mean THREE Quarts of excellent Soup cost only 1 11 - To Stew Ox-Taits, see No. 531. Ox-Heel Soup — (No. 240*) Must be made the day before it is to be eaten. Procure an Ox-Heel undressed, or only scalded (not one that has been already boiled, as they are.at the Tripe shops, till almost all the gelatinous parts are extracted), and Two that have been boiled as they usually are at the Tripe shops. Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls, and set it by on a plate; put the trimmings and bones into a stew-pan, with three quarts of water, and the un- boiled heel cut into quarters; — furnish a stew-pan with two onions, and two turnips pared and sliced; pare off the red part of a couple of large carrots, adda couple of escha- lots cut in half, a bunch of savoury or lemon-thyme, and double the quantity of parsley; set this over, or by the side of a slow steady fire, and keep it closely covered and sim- mering very gently (or the soup-liquor will evaporate) for at least seven hours: during which, take care to remove the fat and scum that will rise to the surface of the’ soup, which must be kept as clean as possible. Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and put two ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir into it as much flour as will make it a stiff paste; add to it by degrees the soup-liquor; give it a boil up; strain it through a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the meat of the boiled heels, —let it go on simmering for half an hour longer, 2. e. till the meat is tender. Put in the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Wine, and a ‘table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, and the soup is ready for the tureen. Obs.—Those who are disposed to make this a more sub- stantial dish may introduce a couple of sets of Goose or 262 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. Duck-Giblets, or Ox-tails, or a pound of Veal- — cut into mouthfuls. | Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup — (No. 241). An old Hare, or Birds, when so tough as to defy the teeth in any other form, will make very eood Soup. 4 Cut off the legs and shoulders ; 3 divide the body cross- ways, and stew them very gently in three quarts of water, with one carrot, about one ounce of onion, with four cloves, ; two blades of pounded mace, twenty-four black peppers, — and a bundle of sweet herbs, till the Hare is tender (most Cooks add to the above a couple of slices of Ham or Bacon, and a Bay Leaf, &c., but my Palate and Purse both plead against such extravagance, the Hare makes sufficiently — savoury Soup without them): the time this will take de-— pends very much upon its age, and how long it has been kept before it is dressed: as a general rule, about three hours: in the meantime, make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat-balls (as. big as Nutmegs) of No. 379; when the Hare is quite tender, take the meat off the Back, and, the upper joint of the Legs; cut it into neat mouthfuls, and lay it aside; cut the. rest of the meat off the legs, shoulders, &c., mince it, and pound it in a mortar, with an ounce of butter, and two or three table-spoonsful of flour moistened with a little Soup; rub this through a hair- sieve, And put it into the Soup to thicken it; — let it sim-= mer slowly half an hour longer, skimming it well, — put it through the Tamis into the. pan again, —and put in the meat with a. glass of claret or Port wine, and a table- spoonful of Currant J elly to each quart of Soup, — season it with salt, put in the forcemeat-balls, and when all is well warmed the Soup is ready. Obs.—Coip Roast Hart will make excellent SOUP.. Chop it in pieces, and stew it in water (according to the quantity of Hare) for about an hour, and manage it as im the above receipt: the stuffing of the hare will be a sub- stitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. N.B. This Soup may be made with Mock Harz, see No. 66. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 263° Game Soup —(No. 242). In the Game Season it is easy for a Cook to give her master a very good Soup at a very little expense, by taking” all the Meat off the Breasts of any cold Birds which have been left the preceding day, and pounding it in a mortar, and beating to pieces the legs and bones, and boiling them in some broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash them, and strain them through a tamis-cloth with the meat that has been pounded in a mortar; strain your broth, and put a little of it at a time into the tamis to help you to strain all of it through. Put your soup-kettle near the fire, but do not let it boil: when ready to dish your dinner, have six yolks of eggs mixed with half a pint of cream; strain through a sieve; put your soup on the, fire, — and as it is coming to a boil, put in the eggs, and stir well with a wooden spoon: do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Goosz or Duck Giblet Soup* —(No. 244). Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of Goose, — or four of Duck Giblets (the fresher the better); wash them well in warm water, in two or three waters: cut off the Noses and split the Heads: divide the Gizzards and Necks into Mouthfuls. — If the Gizzards are not cut into pieces before they are done enough, the rest of the, Meat, &c. will be done too much ; —and Knives and Forks have no business in aSoup-plate. Crack the bones of the Legs, put them into a stew-pan,—cover them with cold water: when they boil, take off the scum as it rises, then put in a bundle of herbs, such as Lemon-Thyme, Winter Savoury,. or Marjoram, about three sprigs of each,— and double - the quantity of Parsley, an Onion, —twenty berries of Allspice, the same of black Pepper, tie them all up in a muslin bag, and set them to stew very gently till the Gizzards are tender : — this will take from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the size and age of the * Fow.s’ or TurKEys’ HEaDs make good and cheap Soup in the- same laanner. 4 264 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. Giblets : — take them up with a skimmer, or a spoon full of holes, put them into the tureen, and cover down close to keep warm till the Soup is ready. To TuickEN THE.Soup. — Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a clean stew-pan; stir in as much Flour as will make it into a paste; then pour to it by degrees a ladleful of the Giblet liquor ; add the remainder by degrees; — let it boil about half an hour, stirring it all the while for | fear it should burn,—skim it, and strain it through a fine sieve into a Basin,—wash out the stew-pan,—then return the Soup into it, and season it with a Glass of Wine, a table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, and a little salt, — let it have one boil up,——and then put the Giblets in to get hot, and the Soup is ready. Obs.—Thus managed, one set of Goose, or two of Duck -Giblets (which latter may sometimes be had for 3d.), will make a Quart of healthful, nourishing Soup: if you think the Giblets alone will not make the Gravy savoury enough, add a pound of Beef or Mutton, or bone of a knuckle of | Veal, and heighten its ‘‘ piqguance” by adding a few leaves of sweet Basil, the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and half a class of Wine, and a little of No. 343* to each quart of Soup. Those who are fond of ForcemEeat may slip the skin off the neck, and fill it with No. 378; tie up the other end tight; put it into the soup about half an hour before - al ' take it up, or make some nice savoury Balls of the Duck . stuffing, No. 61. Obs. — Bespeak the Giblets a couple of days before you desire to have them: this is a favourite Soup when the Giblets are done till nicely tender, but yet not overboiled. Giblets may be had from July to January, —the fresher they are the better. N.B. This is rather a family-dish than a company one,— the Bones cannot be well picked without the help of Alive Pincers. Since Tom Coryat introduced Forks, A.D. 1642, it = not been the fashion to put ‘* peckers and stealers” into Soup. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND. SOUPS. 265 Mock Mocx TurtLeE— (No. 245), As made by Exizanetu Lister (late Cook to Dr. Kit- chiner), Bread and Biscwt Baker, No. 6, Salcombe ‘Place, York Terrace, Regent's Park.— Goes out to dress Dinners on reasonable: terms. Line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints with an ounce of nice lean Bacon or Ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy Beef, a Cow-Heel, the inner rind of a carrot, a sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savoury, three times the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves of sweet basil,* and two eschalots; putin a large Onion, with four cloves stuck in it, eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black pepper; pour on these a quarter of a pint of cold water, — cover the stew-pan, and set it on. a slow fire, to boil gently -for a quarter ofan hour; then, for fear the meat should catch, take off the cover, and watch it; and when it has got a good brown colour, fill up the stew-pan with boiling water, and let it simmer very gently for two hours ;—if you wish to have the full benefit of the meat, only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into mouthsful, and put it into the soup. To THICKEN it, pour to two or three table-spoons- ful of flour, a ladleful of the gravy, and stir it quick till it is well mixed ; pour it back into the stew-pan where the gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer, skim it, and then strain it through a tamis into the stew- pan: cut the cow-heel into pieces about an inch square, squeeze through a sieve the juice of a lemon, a table- spoonful of mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, and a glass. of Madeira * To this fine aromatic Herb, Turtle Soup is much indebted for its spicy flavour, and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of London, who, I believe, are pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. Salmon. See his ‘* Household Dictionary and Essay on Cookery,” 8vo. London, 1710, page 34, article ‘ Basil.’ “‘ This comforts the heart, expels melancholy, and cleanses the lungs.’ See No. 397. “ This plant gave the peculiar flavour to The original Fetier-Lane Sausages.” —Grax’s Supplement to the Pharmacopeia, 8vo. 1821, p. 52. N 266 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. or Sherry wine; let it all simmer together for five minutes longer. Forcemeat or Egg-balls may be added if you please; you will find a receipt for these, No. 380, &c. *,* A pound of Veal Cutlets, or the belly part of pickled Dove or nice double Tripe cut into pieces about an inch square, and half an inch thick, and rounded and trimmed neatly from all skin, gristle, §c. and stewed till they are tender, will be a great addition. S. de One pound and a half of Gravy Beef ....... 1 0 Cow Heel 2.8 LU eee 0 7 Roots:and Herbs, &e.) «...svesunewsceasoameetuene 0 3 Butter and Flour ......... ak esoenipemen ene meeetnes OA WORE. viigens sewn as tone cektecb denis teers 0 6 FL Alf 0 Leman: wai: SScacen ts chaves eect eeenteu ah os 0 1 Bao, K0e: Kor ind 55-2 es dabaane en s*deeeren ee 0 4 Two quarts cost only ........+s.sse00r- Sieg | ‘Mock TurtLte— (No. 247) Is the ‘*‘ Bonne Bouche” which ‘ the Officers of the Mouth” of Old England* prepare, when they choose to rival ‘les Grands Cursiniers de France” in a Ragott sans Pareil. The following Receipt is an attempt (and the Committee of Taste pronounced it a successful one), to imitate the excellent and generally approved Mock Turtle made by ~ Messrs. Birch, Cornhill. Endeavour to have the Head, and the Broth ready for the Soup,+ the day before it as to be eaten. * “ Tout le monde sait que tous les Ragozts qui portent le nom de TorTvuE, sont d’origine Anglaise.”— Manuel des Amp/vitryons, 8vo. 1808, p. 229. ++_ Those who do not like the trouble, &c. of making Mock Turtle, may be supplied with it ready made, in high perfection, at Bircn’s, in Cornhill. It is not. poisoned with Cayenne Pepper, which the Turtle and Mock Turtle Soup of most Pastry Cooks and Tavern Cooks is, and to that degree, that it acts like a Blister on the Coats of the Stomach: this prevents our mentioning any other maker of this Soup, which is.often made with Cow-Heel, or the mere Scalp of the Calf*s Head, instead of the Head itself. The following are Mr. Brrcu’s Directions for warming this Soup: Empty the Turtle into a broad earthen Vessel, to keep Cool; when BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 267 ‘ e ’ It will take Hight Hours to prepare it properly. hours. Cleaning and soaking the head ................. ve tli.E To parboil it to cut up ......... sean Sn Pe 1 oon Lie as sd avien cape epess.nassns ule 1 Making the Broth and finishing the Soup...... 5 8 Get a Calf’s head with the skin on (the fresher the better), take out the brains, wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak for about an hour in spring-water, then lay it in a stew-pan, and cover it with cold water, and half a gallon over; as it becomes warm, a great deal ef scum will rise, which must be immediately removed, — let it boil gently for one hour, take it up, and when almost cold, cut the head into pieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, and the tongue into mouthsful, or rather make a side dish of the Tongue and Brains, as in No. 10. When the Head is taken out, put in the Stock Meat,* about five pounds of Knuckle of Veal, and as much Beef, add to the stock all the Trimmings and Bones of the Head, skim it well, and then cover it close, and let it boil five hours (reserve a couple of quarts of this to make Gravy Sauces, &c. see No. 307), then strain it off, and let it stand till the next morning, — then take off the fat, seta’ large stew-pan on the fire with half a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onions sliced, and four ounces of - green sage, chop ita little, let these fry one hour, then rub in half a pound of flour, and by degrees add your Broth, till it is the thickness of Cream, season it with a quarter of wanted for Table, to two quarts of Soup add one gill of boiling Water or Veal Broth, put it over a good clear Fire, keeping it gently stirred (that it may not burn); when it has boiled about three minutes, skim it, and put it in the Tureen. N.B. The Broth or Water, and the Wine, to be put into the Stew- pan before you put in the Turtle. * The reader may have remarked, that Mocx Turr Le and Portrep Brrr always come in season together. See Obs. to No. 503*. This Gravy Meat will make an excel. lent savoury Potted Relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbs and spice that are boiled with it. 268 ‘BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. an ounce of ground Allspice and halfan ounce of Black Pepper ground very fine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one Lemon peeled very thin; let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half, then strain it through a hair-sieve, — do not rub your Soup to get it through the sieve, or it will make it. grouty; if it does not run through easily, knock _ your wooden-spoon against the side of your sieve, — put it in a-clean stew-pan with the Head, and sEason ir by adding to each gallon of Soup half a pint of Wine — this should. be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the colour of your Soup, Claret, and two table-spoonsful of Lemon-juice, see No. 407*; let it simmer gently till the Meat is tender ; this may take from half an hour to an hour :—take care i. ts not over-done ;——stir it frequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan, and when the meat _ is,quite tender the soup is ready. A Head weighing twenty pounds, and ten pounds of stock meat, will make Ten quarts of excellent Soup,— be- sides the two quarts of stock you have put by for Made Dishes, &c. Obs.—If there is more meat on the head than you wish to put in the soup, prepare it for a Pie, and, with the addition of a Calf’s foot, boiled tender, it will make an excellent Racour Piz; season it with Zest, and a little minced Onion, put in half a tea-cupful of stock, cover it, with puff paste, and bake it one hour: when the soup comes from table, if there is a deal of meat and no soup, put it into a pie- dish, s season it a little, and add some little stock to it, then cover it with paste, bake it one hour, mn you have a good Mock Turrxe Pie. This Soup was eaten by the Committee of Taste with unanimous applause, and they pronounced it a very satis- factory substitute * for ‘“ the far-fetcht and dear-bought ” * “ Many Gourmets and Gastrologers prefer the copy to the ori- ginal — we confess that when done as it ought to be, the Mock Turtle is exceedingly interesting.” Tabella Cibaria, 1820, p. 30. *¢ Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country, in which case the Soup would be incomparably. improved by leaving out the Turtle, and substituting @ good Calf’s Head.”— Supplement to Encyc. Brit. Edinburgh, vol. iv. p, 331. : BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 269 TurtLe; which zs entirely indebted for its Trtle of «© SovEREIGN OF SavouRINEss,” to the Rich Soup with which it 1s surrounded. - Without its paraphernalia of subtle Double Relishes, a “ STARVED TURTLE,” has not more intrinsic sapidity than a“ FATTED CALF.”— Friendly Reader, it is really neither half so wholesome, nor half so toothsome. See Essence of Turtle, No. 343*, and Ods. to No: 493. To warm this Soup, see No, 485. To Szason rr, to each Gallon of Soup put two table- spoonsful of Lemon-juice, see No, 407*, same of Mush- room Catchup (No. 439), and one of Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), half a pint of Wine (this should be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the colour of your Soup, Claret), a tea-spoonful of Curry Powder (No. 455), or a quarter of a drachm of Cayenne, and the peel of a Lemon pared as thin as possible; let it simmer five minutes more, take out the Lemon-peel, and the Soup is ready for the Tureen. While the Soup is doing, prepare for each tureen a dozen and a half of Mock Turtle Forcemeat Balls (to make these, see No. 375 or No. 376, No. 390 to No. 396), we prefer the stuffing ordered in No. 61, and a dozen Ege ~ balls; and put them into the tureen. Brain Batts, or cakes, are a very elegant addition, and are made by © boiling the brains for ten minutes, then putting them in cold water, and cutting them into pieces about as big as a large nutmeg; take Savoury, or Lemon-thyme dried and finely powdered, nutmeg grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them all together; beat up an egg, dip the brains in it, and then roll them in this mixture, and make as much of it as possible stick to them, dip them in the egg again, and then in finely grated and sifted bread-crumbs, fry them in hot fat, and send them up as a side dish. A VEAL SWEETBREAD, prepared as in No. 89, not too much done or it will break, cut into pieces the same size as you cut the calf’s head, and put in the soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, is a superb “‘ Bonne Bouche ;” and Pickled Tongue, stewed till very tender, and cut into mouthsful, is a favourite addition. We’ order the meat to be cut into Mouthsful, that it may be eaten with a 270 BROTHS, GRAVIES,. AND SOUPS. spoon: the Knife and Fork have no business in a Soup late. : . | ; *.* Some of our culinary contemporaries order the Hau Gott of thas (as above directed, sufficiently relishing) Soup to be combustibled and be-devilled with a copious addition of Anchovies,—Mushrooms,—Truffies,— Morells,-— Curry- powder,—Artichoke bottoms,—Salmon’s head and liver,— or the soft part of Oysters or Lobsters,—Soles cut in mouths- Sul,—a bottle of Madeira,—a pint of Brandy, §c.; and to complete ther surferting and burn-gullet Olio, they put in such a tremendous quantity of Cayenne pepper,—that only a fire-proof palate, lined with Asbestos, or indurated by Indian Diet, can endure it. See Note under No. 493. N.B. In helping this Soup, the distributor of it should serve out the Meat,—Forcemeat,—and Gravy,—in equal parts ; however trifling or needless this remark may appear,. the writer has often suffered from the want of such a hint being given to the Soup-server, who has sometimes sent a: plate of mere Gravy without Meat, —at others, of Meat without Gravy,—and sometimes scarcely any thing but Forcemeat Balls. Obs. — This is a delicious Soup, within the reach of those who “ eat to live;” but if it had been composed expressly for those who only ‘live to eat,” I do not know how it could have been made more agreeable: as it is, the lover of good eating will ‘‘ wish his Throat a mile long, and every inch of it Palate.” . N.B. Cucumber in a side-plate is a laudable Vegetable accompaniment. English Turtle —(No. 248). See No. 502.. ‘* A-La-mMopr Breer.” Curry, or Mullaga-Tawny* Soup — (No. 249). Cut four pounds of a Breast of Veal into pieces, about two inches by one; put the trimmings into a stew-pan _ * Mullaga-Tawny signifies Pepper Water. The progress of in- experienced peripatetic Palaticians has lately been arrested by these outlandish words being pasted on the windows of our Coffee-Houses 5 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 271 with two quarts of water, with twelve corns of Black Pepper, and the same of Allspice ; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a half, then strain it off ;—-while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of Veal and four Onions; when they are done, put the Broth to them, put it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, — let it simmer half an hour, then mix two spoonsful of Curry, and the same of Flour, with a little cold water and a tea- spoonful of salt; add these to the soup, and simmer it gently till the Veal is quite tender, and it is ready ; or bone a couple of Fowls or Rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed above for the Veal, — and you may put in a bruised Eschalot, and some Mace and Ginger, instead of Black Pepper and Allspice. Obs.— Read No. 497. Turtle* Soup — (No. 250). As it is our wish that this work should be given to the Public at the lowest possible price, the Receipt for dressing it has, we believe, answered the “‘ Restawrateurs’”’ purpose, and often excited Joun Butt to walk in and taste : —the more familiar name of Curry Soup— would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much-loved Mock TURTLE. It is a fashionable Soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and we give the best receipt we could procure for it. * ° The usual allowance at a TURTLE FeEastT is Sir Pounds live weight per Head ;—at the Spanish Dinner, at the City of London Tavern, in August 1808, 400 guests attended, and 2500 pounds of Turtle were consumed.”—See BELu’s Weekly Messenger for August 7th, 1808. Epicure Quin used to say, it was “not safe to sit down toa Turtle Feast at, one of the City Halls, without a basket-hilted Knife and Fork.’* , We recommend our friends, before encountering such a tempta- tion, to read our Peptic Precerts. Nothing is more difficult of digestion, or oftener requires the aid of Peristaltic Persuaders, than the glutinous Callipash which is considered the ‘* bonne bouche” of this Soup. TURTLE is generally spoiled by being over-dressed. If the reader has any curiosity to know how it is prepared in the most superlative style, —it will be gratified in the highest degree, if he pays a visit to ArzBion-Hovskg, in Aldersgate Street. 272 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. a Turtle is taken out—as a professed Cook is always hired for the purpose of dressing it. The space this long receipt occupied is now filled with directions for ne useful Pickles. See No. 462. PortaBLe* Soup, or Graze — (No. 252). Desire the Butcher to break the bones of a Leg or a — Shin of Beef, of ten pounds weight (the fresher killed the better), put it into a Soup-pot (a DicrstTER + is the best utensil for this purpose) that will well hold it; just cover it with cold water, and set in on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly boils (this should be at least an hour) ;—skim it attentivély while any scum rises,—pour in a little cold water, to throw up the scum that may remain,—let it - come tg a boil again, and again skim it carefully : when no no more scum rises, and the broth appears clear (put in neither Roots nor Herbs nor Salt), let it boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair-sieve ‘into a brown stone pan; set the Broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a sieve, let it dram, make Potted Beef (No. 503),—or it will be very acceptable to many poor families. Next day remove every particle of Fat from the * <¢ A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter ; it thence follows, that 1500 pounds of the same meat, which is the whole weight of a bullock, would give only 94 pounds, which might be easily contained in an earthen Jar.””— Dr. HuTtTon’s Rational Recreations, vol. iv. p. 194. In what degree Portable or other Soup be nutritious, we know not, but refer the reader to our note under No. 185*. + This machine was invented by Dr. Denys Papin, F.R.S., about the year 1631, as appears by his Essay on ** The New Digester, or Engine for Softening Bones,” “ by the help of which (he says) the oldest and hardest Cow Beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young and choice Meat.’’ Cast Iron Digesters are made at Jackson “and Moser’s, in Frith Street, Soho. Although we have not yet found that they do. what Dr. Papin says, “‘ make old and tough Meat — young and tender,” they are, however, excellent things to make Broths and Soups in. Among a multitude of other admirable excellencies obtainable by his Digester, Dr. Parrn, in his 9th Chapter, page 54, on the Profit that a good Engine may come to, says, “* I have found that An Old Hat, very bad and loosely made, having imbibed the Jelly of Bones, became eee firm and stiff.” BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 273 top of it, and pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as quietly as possible, into a Stew-pan, taking care not to let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the Stew-pan, which should be of thick Copper, perfectly well tinned; add a quarter of an ounce of whole Black Pepper to it, let it boil briskly, with the stew-pan uncovered, en a quick fire; if any scum rises, take it off with a skim- mer; when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stew-pan; set it over a gentler fire, till it is reduced to the thickness of a very thick Syrup; take care that it does not burn, — a moment’s inattention now will lose you. all your labour, and the soup will be spoiled :—take a little of it out in a spoon and let it cool ; if it sets into a strong Jelly, it is done enough ;—if it does not, boil it a little longer till it does; — have ready some little Pots, such as are used for Potted Meats, about an inch and a half deep, taking care that they are quite dry ;— we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for home consumption—(the less zt is reduced, the better as the flavour of the Soup)—if it be sufficiently concen- trated to keep for six. months ;—if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders as are used for German Sausages, or if you prefer it in the form of Cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of an Inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh the Cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, and turn them fre- quently till they are thoroughly dried ; — this will take a week or ten days; turn them twice a‘ day ;— when well hardened, and kept in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate. | _ This extract of Meat makes excellent “‘ Tablettes de - Bourllon,” for those who are obliged to endure long fasting. : If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a little warm water, the mouldy taste does not penetrate the mass. . If, after several days’ drying it does not become so hard as you wish, put it into a Bainmarie Stew-pan, or N2 . 274 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND: SOUPS. Milk-boiler, (these are made by Luoyp, Tinman, near Norfolk-street, Strand,) till it is evaporated to the con- sistence you wish—or, set the Pots in a cool Oven, or in a Cheese-toaster, at a considerable distance from the fire ; this is the only safe way of reducing it very much, without the risk of its burning, and acquiring an extremely dis- agreeable acrid flavour, &c. Obs. — The uses of this concentrated Essence of Meat are numerous. It is equally economical and convenient for making extempore Broths enumerated in the Obs. to No. 200, Sauces and Gravies for Hashed or Stewed Meat, Game, or Poultry, &c. You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in Na. 329;—to make Gravy, Sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered for Broth. If you have time and opportunity, as there is no sea- soning in the Soup, either of Roots, Herbs, or Spice, boil an Onion with or without a bit of Parsley and Sweet Herbs, and a few corns of Allspice, or other Spice, in the water you melt the Soup in, which may be flavoured with Mushroom Catchup (No. 439),—or Eschalot Wine (No. 402),—Essence of Sweet Herbs (No. 417),—Savoury Spice (No. 421, or No. 457),—Essence of Celery (No. 409), &c. or Zest (No. 255) ; these may be combined in the pro- portions most agreeable to the palate of the Eater — and are as portable as Portable Soup, for a very small portion will flavour a Pint. The Editor adds nothing to the solution of this Soup, but a very little ground Black Pepper and some Salt. N.B. If you are a careful manager, you need not always purchase Meat on purpose to make this,—when you dress @ large Dinner, you can make GLazE at very small cost, by taking care of the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry, you use; wash them well, put them into a Stew-pan, cover them with the liquor you have boiled Meat in, and proceed as in the above Receipt; and see Obs. on No. 185. Mem. This Portasxe Sovr is a most convenient article in Cookery — especially in Small Families, where it will BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS» 275 save a great deal of time and trouble. It is also Economical, for no more will be melted than is wanted —so there is no waste. . Nine pounds of Neck of Beef, costing 2s. 74d. produced nine ounces of very nice Soup; the Bones, when boiled, weighed ten ounces. Half an Ox-Cheek, costing 1s. 9d. and weighing 14% pounds, produced thirteen ounces — but not so firm or clear, and far inferior in flavour to that obtained from a Shin of Beef. | A Sheep’s Head, costing 9d., produced three ounces and a half. Two pounds of lean Meat, from the Blade Bone of Beef, produced hardly an ounce. The addition of an ounce of Gum Arabic, and two ounces of IJstnglass, to four ounces of the extract from a Leg of Beef, considerably diminished the consistence of the mass, without adding to its bulk. It has been thought that the Portable Soup which is manufactured for sale—is partly made with Ox-Heels; but the experiment (No. 198), proves this cannot be, as an ounce of the Jelly from Ox-Heel costs 5d. For the cheapest method of procuring a hard Jelly, see N.B. to No. 481; nineteen Bones, costing 44d. produced three ounces :—almost as cheap as Salisbury Glue. We are informed, that there is now for sale at Leipsig— some Tons of Portable Soup—for Two shillings per pound. During the late war, there was a great deal imported into this country from Russia. A Knuckle of Veal, weighing 42 pounds, and costing 2s. 4d. produced five ounces. A Sun or Beer, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1s. 104d. produced nine ounces of concentrated Soup, sufficiently reduced to keep for several months. After the boiling, the bones in this joint weighed two pounds and a quarter, and the Meat two pounds and a quarter. The result of these experiments is, that the product from Legs and Shins of Beef was almost as large in quan- tity, and of much superior quality and flavour, as that obtained from any of the other materials ;—the flavour, 276 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. of the product from Mutton, Veal, &c. is comparatively insipid. . as As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality — and we could not find any proper and circum- - stantial directions for making it, which, on trial, answered the purpose,—and it is really a great acquisition to the Army and Navy—to Travellers, Invalids, &c.—the Editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring to learn— and to teach how it may be prepared in the easiest, most economical, and perfect manner. The ordinary selling price is from 10s. to 12s., but you may make it according to the above Receipt for 3s. 6d. per Pound—. e. for 24d. per Ounce, which will make you a Pint of Broth. Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, may add the lean of Ham, in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of Leg of Beef. It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time ‘you put the Broth into the smaller Stew-pan, Mushroom ‘Catchup, Eschalot Wine, Essences of Spice or Herbs, “&c.;—we prefer it quite plain—it is then ready to be converted, in an instant, into a basin of Beef Tea; for an Invalid, and any flavour may be immediately communi- ‘cated to it by the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). To Clarify Broth or Gravy—(No. 252*). Put on the Broth jn a clean Stew-pan, break the white and Shell of an Egg, beat them together, put them into the Broth, stir it with a whisk; when it has boiled a few “minutes, strain it through a Tamis or a napkin. Obs. — A careful Cook will seldom have occasion to clarify her Broths, &c. if prepared according to the direc- — tions given in No. 200. THE ‘COOK'S ORACLE. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Melted Butter Is so simple and easy to prepare, that it is a matter of ge- neral surprise, that what is done so often in every English kitchen, is so seldom done right, — Foreigners may well say, that although we have only Onz Sauce for Vegetables, Fish, Flesh, Fowl, &c.—we hardly ever make that good. It is spoiled nine times out of ter, more from Idleness than from Ignorance, and rather because the Cook won’t ‘than because she can’t do it,—which can only be the case when Housekeepers will not allow Butter to do it with. Goop MELTED BurTerR cannot be made with mere flour and water; there must be a full and proper propor- tion of Butter.—As it must be always on the Table, and is THE FOUNDATION OF ALMOST ALL ouR ENGLISH SAUCES$ we have Melted Butter and Beles ——_——- Parsley, Anchovies, eS, —_____-____—— Shrimps, ———— Lobsters, Capers, &c. &c. &e. I have tried every way of making it; and I trust, at last, that I have written a receipt, which if the Cook will care- fully observe, she will constantly succeed in giving satis- faction. In the quantities of the various Sauces I have ordered, I have had in view the providing fora Family of half-a- -dozen moderate people. 278, GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Never pour Sauce over Meat, or even put it into the dish ; — however well made, some of the Company may — have an antipathy to it;—- Tastes are as different as Faces : — moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left may be put by for another time, or used for another purpose. - Lastly.— Observe, that in ordering the proportions of Meat, Butter, Wine, Spice, &c. in the following re- ceipts, the proper quantity zs set down, and that a less quantity, will not do ;—and in some imstances those Pa- _ lates which have been used to the extreme of Piquance, will require additional excitement.* — If we have erred, it has been on the right side, from an anxious wish to com- bine Economy with Elegance, and the Wholesome with the Toothsome. The following we recommend as an ele- gant Relish to finish Soups and Sauces. ZEST, For Chops, Sauces, AND Made Dishes. ai (No. 255.) This piquante quintessence of Ragowz imparts to what- ever it touches a most delicious Relish ;—it awakens the Palate with delight,—refreshes Appetite,—and in- stantly excites the good humour of (every man’s master) the Stomach. Soon-made Savoury Sauce. Stir two drachms of ZEST into a half-pint of melted butter (No. 256). Let it boil up, and strain it through a sieve ;—or each Guest may add it at table like Salt, : and adjust the vibration of his Palate to his own Fancy. Sold at ButriER'’s Herb-shop, opposite Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. It will keep, for any time, in any Climate. * This may be easily accomplished by the aid of that Whip and Spur, which Students of long standing in the Sehool of Good Living are generally so fond of enlivening their palate with, i. ¢. Cayenne: and Garlic. ~ GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 279 Melted Butter. Keep a pint stew-pan* for this purpose only. Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt more easily, and mix more readily ;— put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoonful (2. e. about three drachms) of Flour, (some prefer Arrow Root, or Potato Stareh, No. 448), and two table-spoonsful of Milk. “When thoroughly mixed, —add six table-spoonsful of water; hold it over the fire, and shake it round every minute (all the while the same way), till it just begins to simmer, then let it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of the thickness of good cream. N.B. Two table-spoonsful of No. 439, instead of the milk, will make as good Mushroom Sauce as need be, and is a Superlative accompaniment to either Fish, — Flesh, — or Fowl. , Obs.—This is the best way of preparing melted butter ;-— Milk mixes with the butter much more easily and more in- timately than water alone can be madetodo. This is of proper thickness to be mixed at table with Flavouring Essences, Anchovy, Mushroom, or Cavice, &c. If made merely to pour over vegetables, add a little more milk to it. N.B. If the Burren OI1ts, put a spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with a spoon, —if it is very much oiled, it Parstey (No. 261), Currvir (No. 264), CELERY (No. 289), Cress (No. 397*), Tarracon (Ne. 396), Burnet (No. an Basi (No. 397), Escuator (Nos. 295 and 403), Caper (Nos. 274 | and 295), FENNEL (No. 265), Liver (Nos. 287 and 288), Curry (Nos. 348 and 455), Ece (No. 267), Musyroom (No. 403), An- cHovy (Nos. 270 and 433), Racour (Nos. 421 and 457), SHriap (No. 283), Bonne BoucnueE (No. 341), SupERLATIVE (No. 429), and various Flavouring Essences. See from No. 396 to 463. Any of the above Vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to table on a little plate, and those who like their flavour may mix them with Melted Butter, &c. This is a hint for Economists, bape will save them many pounds of Butter, &c. See MEm. to 0. 256. * A Sirver SauceEPan is infinitely the best,—you may have one: big enough to melt butter for a moderate family for four or five: pounds, Bn Ss 2 must be poured backwards and forwards from the Stew- — pan to the Sauce-boat till it is right again. Mrm.— Melted Butter made to be mixed with flavour- ing Essences, Catchups, &c. should be of the thickness of light Batter, that it may adhere to the Fish, &c. Thickening —(No. 257). Clarified butter is best for this purpose; but if you have — none ready, put some Fresh Butter into a stew-pan over a slow clear fire ;-—when itis melted, add fine Flour sufficient make it the thickness of paste ; —stir it well together with — a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is quite smooth, and the colour of a Guinea: this must be done very gradually and patiently; if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it, it will become bitter and empy- Teumatic ; pour it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a fortnight in Summer, and longer in Winter. A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a ‘Quart of Gravy. Obs.—This, in the French kitchen, is called Roux. Be particularly attentive in making of it; if it gets any burnt smell or taste, it will spoil every thing it is put ito, see Obs. to No. 322. When cold, it should be thick enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid paste. It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is the basis of consistency in most made-dishes, soups, sauces, and ragodts :—if the Gravies, &c. are too thin, add this ‘Thickening, more or less, according to the consistence you would wish them to have. Mrm.—In making Thickening,—the less Butter, and the more Flour you use, the better ;—they must be thoroughly worked together, and the broth, or soup, &c. you put them to, added by degrees ; — take especial care to incorporate them well together, or your sauces, &c. will taste floury, and have a disgusting, greasy appearance ; — therefore, »after you have thickened your sauce, add to it some broth, or warm water, in the proportion of two table-spoonsful to a pint, and set it by the side of the fire, to raise any fat, &ec. that is not thoroughly incorporated with the. gravy, 280 _ GRAVIES AND SAUCES. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 281 which you must carefully remove as it comes to the 28 This is called cleansing, or finishing the sauce. : ** Half an ounce “of Butter, and a table-spoonful of ‘Flour, are about the proportion for a pint of Sauce to make it as thick as Cream. . - N.B.. The Fat Skimmings off the top of the Broth Pot are sometimes substituted for Butter, (see No. 240), — some Cooks merely thicken their Soups and Sauces with Flour, as we have-directed in No. 245, or Potato Fa- rina, No. 448. ; Clarified Butter —(No. 259). _ Put the Butter in a nice clean stew-pan, over a very clear slow fire; watch it,—and when it is melted carefully, skim off the butter-milk, &c. which will swim on the top; —let it stand a minute or two for the impurities to sink to the bottom, —then pour the clear butter through a sieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan. Obs.—Butter thus purified will be as sweet as Marrow,— a very useful covering for Potted Meats, &c., and for frying Fish equal to the finest Florence oil, for which purpose it is commonly used by Catholics, and those whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands fried i in animal oil. Burnt Butter — (No. 260). Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small frying-pan; when it becomes a dark brown colour, add to it a table- spoonful and a half of good vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Obs.—This is used as sauce for boiled Fish, or pee : Eges. Oiled Butter — (No. 260°). | Put two ounces of fresh Butter into a sauce-pan; set it at a distance from the fire, so that it may melt gradually, till it comes to an Oil, —and pour it off quietly from the ~ dregs. q Obs. — This will supply the place of Olive Oil; and by some is preferred to it either for Salads or Frying. 282 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Parsley and Butter — (No. 261). Wash some Parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf by leaf; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water: boil the Parsley about ten minutes; drain it on a sieve; mince it quite fine, and then bruise it to a ulp. F The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent Relish depends upon the Parsley being minced very fine: put it into a sauce-boat, and mix with it, by degrees, about half a pint of good melted butter (No. 256)—only do not put so much flour to it, as the Parsley will add to its thickness: — never pour Parsley and Butter over boiled things, but send it up in a Boat. Obs.—In French Cookery Books this is called ‘‘ Melted Butter, English Fashion ;” and, with the addition of a slice of lemon cut into dice, a little Allspice and Vinegar,. “* Dutch Sauce.’ , N.B. To prEesEeRvE PaRSLEY through the winter, — in May, June, or July, take fine fresh-gathered sprigs; pick, and wash them clean; set on a stew-pan half full of water; put a little salt in it; boil, and skim it clean, and then put in the Parsley, and let it boil for a couple of minutes, and take it out, and lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may be dried as quick as possible, — put it by in a Tin Box, and keep it in a dry place, —when you want it, lay it in a Basin, and cover it with warm water a few minutes before you use it. Gooseberry Sauce — (No. 263). Top and tail them close with a pair of scissors, and scald half a pint of green Gooseberries; drain them on a _ hair-sieve, and put them into halfa pint of melted Butter, No, 256. | | Some add grated Ginger and Lemon-Peel, and the French minced Fennel, — others send up the Gooseberries whole or mashed, without any Butter, &c. -GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 988 Cuervit,—BasiLt,—Tarracon,—Burnet,—Cress— and Butter — (No. 264). This is the first time that Chervil, which has so long been a favourite with the sagacious French Cook, has been introduced into an English book. — Its flavour is a strong concentration of the combined taste of Parsley and Fennel, but more aromatic and agreeable than either; and is an excellent sauce with boiled Poultry or Fish. Prepare it, ‘&c. as we have directed for Parsley and Butter, No. 261. Fennel and Butter for Mackarel, &c. — (No.. 265) Is prepared in the same manner as we have just de- scribed in No. 261. Obs. — For Mackarel Sauce, or boiled Soles, &c.— some people take equal parts of Fennel and Parsley : — others add a sprig of Mint, or a couple of young Onions minced very fine. Mackarel Roe Sauce — (No. 266).. Boil the Roes of Mackarel (soft roes are best); bruise them with a spoon with the yolk of an Ege, beat up with a very little pepper and salt, and some Fennel and Parsley boiled and chopped very fine, mixed with almost halfa pint of thin melted butter, see No. 256. Gee catchup, Walnut pickle, or Soy, may be added. Egg Sauce— (No. 267). This agreeable accompaniment to reasted Poultry, or salted Fish, —is made by:putting three Eggs into boiling water, and boiling them for about twelve minutes, when they will be hard; put them into cold water till you want them.— This will make the Yolks firmer, and prevent their surface turning black, and you can cut them much neater, — use only two of the Whites; cut the Whites into small dice, —the Yolks into bits about a quarter of an inch square, — put them into a Sauce-boat; pour to them half a pint of melted Butter, and stir them together. Re y ~ 284 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Obs.—The Melted Butter for Egg Sauce need not be made quite so thick as No. 256. If you are for Superla- tive Egg Sauce, pound the Yolks of a Couple of Eggs, and tub them with the melted butter to thicken it. N.B. Some Cooks garnish Salt Fish with hard-boiled eges cut in half. Plum-Pudding Sauce — (No. 269). A giass of Sherry, half a glass of Brandy (or ‘* Cherry- Bounce”), or Curacoa (No. 474), or Essence of Punch (Nos. 471 and 479), and two tea-spoonsful of pounded lump sugar (a very little grated Lemon-Peel is sometimes added), in a quarter of a pint of Thick Melted butter : grate Nutmeg on the top. See Pudding Cutchup, No. 446. Anchovy Sauce — (No. 270). Pound three Anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of Butter; rub it through a double Hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into almost half a pint of Melted butter (No. 256); or stir in a table-spoonful of Essence of Anchovy, No. 433.—To the above, many cooks add Lemon-juice and Cayenne, Obs. — Foreigners make this sauce with. good Brown Sauce (No. 329), or White Sauce (No. 364), instead of melted Butter, add to it Catchup, —Soy,— and some of their flavoured Vinegars, as Elder or Tarragon, — Pepper and fine Spice, — sweet herbs, — Capers,— Eschalots, &c. They serve it with most Roasted Meats. N.B. Keep your Anchovies well covered, first tie down your Jar with Bladder moistened with vinegar, and then wiped dry; tie Leather over that: when you open a Jar, moisten the bladder, and it will come off easily, — as soon as you have taken out the Fish, replace the coverings: the air soon rusts and spoils Anchovies. See No. 433, &c. Garlic Sauce — (No. 272). Pound two cloves of Garlic with a piece of fresh Butter, about as big as a Nutmeg: rub it through a double hair- sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter, or Beef Gravy; or make it with Garlic Vinegar, Nos. 400, 401, and 402. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. . — 285 Phibh Sauce — (No. 273). Pare a Lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crown piece ; divide these into Dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint of Melted Butter, No. 256. Obs.—Some Cooks mince a bit of the Lemon-Peel (pared very thin) vety jine, and add it to the above. Caper Sauce — (No. 274), —See also No. 295. To make a Quarter of a Pint, take a table- spoonful of Capers, and two tea-spoonsful of Vinegar. The present fushion of cutting Capers is to mince one- third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put them into a quarter of a pint of melted Butter, or good thickened Gravy (No. 329); stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. Obs. — Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of Parsley, or Chervil, or Tarragon, and add these to the sauce; — others the juice’ of half a Seville Orange, or Lemon. Mem.—Keep the Caper bottle very closely corked, and do not use any of the Caper liquor: —if the Capers are not well covered with it, they will immediately spoil; and. it is an excellent ingredient in Hashes, &c. The Dutch use it as a Fish Sauce, mixing it with melted butter. Mock Caper Sauce — (No. 275, or No. 295). Cut some pickled Green Pease, — French Beans, — _ Gherkins, — or Nasturtiums, into bits the size of Capers; put them into half a pint of melted butter, with two tea- spoonsful of Lemon-juice, or nice Vinegar. Oyster Sauce — (No. 278). Choose Plump and Juicy Natives for this purpose : — Dowt take them out of their Shell till you put them into: the Stew-pan, see Qds. to No. 181. 286 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. To make good Oyster Sauce for half a dozen hearty Fish-Eaters, you cannot have less than three or four dozen Oysters. — Save their liquor; strain it, and put it and them into a stew-pan: as soon as they boil, and the fish plump, take them off the Fire, and pour the contents of the stew-pan into a sieve over a clean basin; wash the stew-pan out with hot water, and put into it the strained liquor, with about an equal quantity of Milk, and about two ounces and a half of Butter, with which you have well rubbed a large table-spoonful of Flour, — give it a boil up, and ‘pour it through a sieve into a basin (that the Sauce may be quite smooth), and then back again into the sauce- — pan,—now shave the Oysters, and (if you have the honour of making sauce for ‘“‘ a Commettee of Taste,” take away the gristly part also) put 2 only the soft part of the Oysters : ‘aif they are very large, cut them in half, and set them by the fire to keep hot: ‘‘ if they boil after, they will become hard.” If you have not Liquor enough, add a little Melted Butter, or Cream (see No. 388), or Milk beat up with the yolk of an Egg (this must not be put in till the sauce is done). Some barbarous Cooks add Pepper, or Mace, — the juice or peel of a Lemon, — Horseradish,—Essence of Anchovy,—Cayenne, &c. :—Plain Sauces are only to taste of the Ingredient from which they derive their name. Obs. —— It will very much heighten the flavour of this Sauce to pound the soft part of half a dozen (unboiled) Oysters; rub it through a hair-sieve, and then stir it into the sauce: —this Essrence or Oyster (and for some palates a few grains of Cayenne) is the only addition we recommend. See No. 44), Preserved Oysters — (No. 280). Open the Oysters carefully, so as not to cut them except in dividing the gristle which attaches the shells,—put them into a Mortar, and when you have got as many as you can conveniently pound at once, add about two drachms of Salt to a dozen Oysters, — pound them, and rub them through the back of a hair-sieve, and put them into a mortar again, with as much Flour (which has been pre- GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 287 viously thoroughly dried) as will make them into a paste; roll it out several times, — and, lastly, flour it, and roll it out the thickness of a half crown, and divide it into pieces about an inch square; lay them in a Dutch oven, where they will dry so gently as not to get burned, — turn them every half hour, and when they begin to dry, crumble them, —they will take about four hours to dry, —then pound them fine, — sift them, and put them into bottles, and seal them over. N.B. Tureez pozen or Natives required 73 ounces of dried Flour to make them into a paste, which then weighed 11 ounces,—-when dried and powdered 63 ounces. To make half a pint of Sauce, put one ounce of Butter into a stew-pan, with three drachms of Oyster powder, and six table-spoonsful of milk; set it on a slow fire; stir it till it boils, and season it with salt. This Powder, if made with Plump Juicy Natives, will abound with the flavour of the Fish ; and if closely corked, and kept in a dry place, will remain good for some time. Obs. — This Extract is a welcome succedaneum while Oysters are out of season, and in such inland parts as seldom have any, is a valuable addition to the list of Fish sauces: it is equally good with boiled Fowl, or Rump Steak,—and sprinkled on Bread and Butter makes a very good Sandwich, and is especially worthy the notice of Country Housekeepers—and as a Store Sauce for the Army and Navy. See Anchovy Powder, No. 435. Shrimp Sauce—(No. 283), Shell a Pint of Shrimps, pick them clean, wash them and put them into half a pint of good Melted Butter. A Pint of unshelled Shrimps is about enough for Four Persons. Obs.—Some stew the Heads and Shells of the Shrimps, (with or without a blade of bruised Mace,) for a quarter of an hour, and strain off the liquor to melt the butter with, and add a little Lemon-juice,—Cayenne,—and Essence of Anchovy,—or Soy,—Cavice, &c. ;—but the Flavour of the Shrimp is so delicate it will be overcome by any of ‘such additions. 288 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Mxm.—If your Shrimps are not quite fresh, they will eat tough and thready, as other Stale Fish do.—See Ors. to No. 140. Lobster Sauce—(No. 284). Choose a fine Spawny Hen Lobster,* be sure it is fresh, so get a live one if you can, (one of my culinary prede- cessors says, “let it be heavy and lively,”) and boil it as No. 176; pick out the Spawn and the Red Coral into a mortar, add to it half an ounce of Butter, pound it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; cut the meat of the Lobster into small squares, or pull it to pieces with a fork, put the pounded Spawn into as much melted Butter (No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it together till it is thoroughly mixed,— now put to it the meat of the Lobster, and warm it on the fire; take care zt does not bol, which will spoil its com- plexion, and rts brilliant Red colour will mmediately fade. The above is a very easy and excellent manner of making this Sauce. Some use strong Beef or Veal Gravy instead of melted Butter, adding Anchovy, Cayenne, Catchup, Cavice, Le- mon-juice, or pickle, or Wine, &c. Obs.—Save a little of the inside Red Coral Spawn, and rub it through a sieve (without butter) :—it is a very orna- mental garnish to sprinkle over Fish; and if the skin is broken, (which will sometimes happen to the most careful Cook, when there is a large dinner to dress, and many other things to attend to,) you will find it a convenient and elegant Veil, to conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous Gourmands, »B. Various methods have been tried to PRESERVE LozstrrErs, see No. 178, and Lobster Spawn, for a Store * You must have a Hen Lobster, on account of the Live Spawn. Some Fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the Fish before they are boiled ; — lift up the tail of the Lobster, and see that it has not been robbed of its Eggs ; — the goodness of your Sauce depends wpon its having a full share of the Spawn in it, to which it owes not merely its brilliant Red Colour, but the finest part of its Flavour. - GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 289 Sauce. The Live Spawn may be kept some time in strong Salt and Water — or in an Ice-house. The following process might, perhaps, preserve it _ longer : — Put it into a Sauce-pan of boiling water, with a large spoonful of Salt in it, and let it boil quick for five minutes; then drain it on a hair-sieve; spread it out thin on a plate, and set it in a Dutch Oven till it is thoroughly dried, — grind it ina clean mill, and pack it closely in well-stopped Bottles. See also Potted Lobsters, No. 178. Sauce for Lobster, §c.—(No. 285).—See also No. 372. Bruise the yolks of two hard-boiled Eggs with the back of a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water, and the soft inside and. the spawn of the lobster; rub them quite smooth, with a tea- spoonful of made Mustard, two table-spoonsful of Salad Oil, and five of Vinegar; season it with a very little Cayenne pepper, and some salt. Obs.—To this, Elder or Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), or Anchovy Essence (No. 433), is occasionally added. Liver and Parsley Sauce —(No. 287), or Liver and Lemon Sauce. Wash the Liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a Fowl or Rabbit, and boil it five minutes in five table-spoonsful of water ;— chop it fine; or pound or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through a sieve : — wash about one-third the bulk of Parsley leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling water, with a tea- spoonful of salt in it; lay it on a hair-sieve to drain, and _ Mince it very fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it up; — do not Tet it boil. Or, To make Lemon and Liver Sauce. Pare off the rind of a Lemon, or of a Seville Orange, as thin as possible, so as not to cut off any of the White with _ it;—now cut off all the White, and cut the Lemon into O 290, GRAVIES AND SAUCES slices, about as thick as a couple of half-crowns; pick out the pips, and divide the slices into small squares: add these, and a little of the peel minced very fine to the Liver, prepared as directed above, and put them into the melted Butter, and warm them together, — but do not, let them, boil. _ N.B. The Poulterers can always let you have fresh, Livers — if that of the Fowl or Rabbit is not good, or not large enough to make as much Sauce as you wish. Obs.—-Some Cooks, instead of pounding, mince the Liver very fine (with half as much Bacon), and leave out the Parsley, — others add the juice of half a Lemon, and some of the Peel grated,-—or a tea-spoonful of Tarragon or Chili Vinegar, a table-spoonful of White Wine, or a little beaten Mace or Nutmeg, or Allspice : —if you wish it a little more lively on the palate, pound an Eschalot, ora few leaves of Tarragon or Basil, with Anchovy or Catchup, or Cayenne. Liver Sauce for Fish —(No. 288). Boil the Liver of the Fish, and pound it in a mortar with a little flour, stir it into some Broth, or some of the liquor the fish was boiled in, or melted Butter, Parsley, and a few grains of Cayenne, a little Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), or Soy, or Catchup (No. 439) ;—give it a boil up, and rub it through a sieve:—-you may add a little Lemon-Juice, or Lemon cut in dice. Celery Sauce, White —(No. 289). Pick and wash two heads of nice White Celery, cut it into pieces about an inch long; stew it in a pint of water, and a teca-spoonful of salt, till the Celery is tender; * roll an ounce of butter with a table-spoonful of flour; add this to half a pint of cream, and give it a boil up. N.B. See No. 409, * So much depends upon the age of the Celery, that we cannot give any precise timefor this. Young fresh-gathered Celery will be enough: in three quarters of an hour ; old will sometimes take twice as long. GRAVIES AND SAUCES, 29k Celery Sauce Purée, Ya boiled Turkey, Veal, Fowls, Sas (No. 290). . . Cut small half a dozen heads of nice White Celery that is quite clean, and two Onions sliced; put in a two-quart: Stew-pan, with a small lump of Butter : sweat them over @ slow fire till quite tender, then put in two spoonsful of flour, half a pint of water (or Beef or Veal Broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or milk; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass through a fine hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. If you wish for Celery sauce, when Celery is not in season, a quarter of a drachm of Celery-seed, or a. little Essence of Celery (No. 409), will impregnate half a. pint of sauce with a sufficient “portion of the flavour of the Vegetable. See Obs. to No. 214. Green, or Sorrel Sauce — (No. 291). Wash and clean a large Ponnet of Sorrel, put it into a Stew-pan that will just hold it, with a bit of Butter the size of an Egg, cover it close, set it over a-slow fire for a quarter of hour, pass the Sorrel with the back of a wooden spoon through a hair-sieve, season with Pepper, Salt, and a small pinch. of powdered Sugar, make it hot, and serve up under Lamb, Veal, Sweetbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, Nutmeg, and Lemon-Juice, are sometimes added. | Tomata, or Love-Apple Sauce — (No. 292). See also No. 443. Have twelve or fifteen Tomatas, ripe and red; take off the stalk; cut them in half; squeeze them just enough to get all the water and seeds out; put them in a stew-pan with a Capsicum, and two or three table-spoonsful of Beef Gravy; set them on a slow stove for an hour, or till pro- perly melted; then rub them through a tamis into a clean stew-pan, with a little white pepper and salt, and let them simmer together a few minutes. ; N.B. To the above the French Cook adds an Onion or Eschalot, a Clove or two, or a little Tarragon Vinegar. 2.92 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Mock Tomata Sauce — (No. 293). The only difference between this and genuine Love- Apple Sauce, is the substituting the pulp of Apple for that of Tomata, colouring it with Turmeric, and communicating an acid flavour to it “by Vinegar. Eschalot Sauce — (No. 294). Take four Eschalots, and make it in the same manner as Garlic Sauce (No. 272). Or, ~ You may make this sauce more extemporaneously by putting two table-spoonsful of Eschalot Wine (No. 403), and a sprinkling of Pepper and Salt, into (almost) half a pint of thick melted Butter. Obs.— This is an excellent Sauce for Chops or Steaks ; many are very fond of it with Roasted or Boiled Meat, Poultry, &c. Eschalot Sauce for Boiled Mutton — (No. OD). This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for “* Caper Sauce.” Mince four Eschalots very fine, and put them into a small sauce-pan, with almost half a pint of the liquor the Mutton was boiled in: let them boil up for five minutes ; then put in a table-spoonful of Vinegar, a quarter tea- spoonful of Pepper, a little Salt, and a bit of Butter (as big as a walnut) rolled in flour; shake together till it boils. See (No. 402) Eschalot Wine. Obs.— We like a little Lemon-peel with Eschalot ;— the haut gott of the latter is much ameliorated by ‘the Gelicate aroma of the former. Some Cooks add a little finely chopped Parsley. Young Onion Sauce —(No. 296). Peel a pint of Button Onions, and put them in water till you want to put them on to boil; put them into a stew- pan, with a quart of cold water : let them boil till tender: they will take (according to their size and age) from half an hour toan hour. You may put them into half a pint of No. 307. See also No, 137. | _ GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 293 Onion Sauce — (No. 297). Those who lke the full flavour of Onions only cut off the strings and tops (without peeling off any of the skins), put them into salt and water, and let them lie an hour; then wash them, put them into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, pass them through a colander, and mix a little melted Buiter with them. . N.B. Some mix the pulp of Apples, or Turnips, with the Onions,— others add Mustard to them. White Onion Sauce — (No. 298). ‘The following is a more mild and delicate* prepara- tion:—Take half a dozen of the largest and whitest Onions (the Spanish are the mildest, but these can only be had from August to December), peel them and cut them in half, and lay them in a pan of spring-water for a quarter of an hour, and then boil for a quarter of an hour — and then, if you wish them to taste very mzld — pour off that water, and cover them with fresh boiling water, and let them boil till they are tender, which will sometimes take three quarters of an hour longer — drain them well on a hair-sieve, lay them on the chopping-board, and chop and bruise them, put them into a clean sauce-pan, with some Butter and Flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and some Cream, or good milk; stir it till it boils; then rub the whole through a tamis, or sieve, adding cream or milk, to make it the consistence you wish. Obs.— This is the usual sauce for boiled Rabbits, Mut- ton, or Tripe.— There must be plenty of it; the usual expression signifies as much, for we say, smother them with it. Brown Onion Sauces, or Onion Gravy — (No. 299). Peel and slice the Onions (some put in an equal quan- tity of Cucumber or Celery) into a quart stew-pan, with *- Tf you wish to have them very mild, cut them in quarters, boil them for five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cook them in fresh water. i atl 994 “GRAVIES AND SAUCES. an ounce of Butter; set it on a slow fire, and turn the Onion about till it is very lightly browned ; now gradually ‘stir in half an ounce of Flour; add a little broth, and a | ‘little pepper and salt, boil up for a few minutes, ‘add ‘a table-spoonful of Claret, or Port Wine, and same of ‘Mushroom Catchup, — (you may sharpen it with a little ‘Lemon-Juice or Vinegar,)— and rub it through a tamis or ‘fine sieve. Curry Powper (No. 348) will convert this into ex- ‘cellent Curry Sauce. N.B. If this Sauce 1s ror Srraks, shred:an ounce of Onions, fry them a nice brown, and put them to the sauce you have rubbed through a tamis;—or some very small ‘round young silver Button Onions (see No. 296), peeled ‘and boiled tender, and put in whole when your sauce is ‘done, will be an acceptable addition. Obs.—If you have no Broth, put in half a pint of water, and see No. 252 ;—yjust before you give it the last boil up, add to it another table-spoonful of Mushroom Carchup, ‘or the same quantity of Port Wine or good Ale. - The flavour of this Sauce may be varied by adding ‘Tarragon or Burnet Vinegar (Nos. 396 and 399). : Sage and Onion, or Goose-stuffing Sauce —(No. 300). Chop very fine an ounce of Onion and half an ounce of green Sage leaves, put them into a stew-pan with four ‘spoonsful of water, simmer gently for ten minutes, then ‘put in a tea-spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce of fine bread-crumbs; mix -well together ; then pour to it a quarter of a pint of (Broth, or Gravy, or) Melted Butter, stir well together, and simmer it a few minutes longer. Obs.—This is a very relishing Sauce for Roast Pork, Poultry, Geese, or Ducks; or Green Pease on ‘Maigre Days. See.also Bonne Bouche for the above, No. 341. Green Mint Sauce—(No. 303). Wash half a handful of nice young fresh-gathered Green Mint (to this some add one-third the quantity of Parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and ‘GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 295 put them into a sauce-boat, with a tea-spoonful of moist _ Sugar, and four table- spoonsful of Vinegar. Obs.— This is the usual accompaniment to Hot Lamb; and an equally agreeable relish with Cold Lamb. If Green Mint cannot be procured, this sauce may be cage with Mint Vinegar (No. 398). A pple Bunce —(No. 304). Pare and core three good-sized baking Apples, put them into a well-tinned pint sauce-pan, with two table-spoonsful of cold water; cover the sauce-pan close, and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of hours before dinner, — some Apples will take a long time stewing,—others will be ready in a quarter of an hour ak the Apples are done enough, pour off the water, let them stand a few minutes to get dry; then beat them up with a Fork, with a bit of Butter about as big as a Nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered Sugar. ~ N.B. Some add Lemon-peel, grated, or minced fine,—or boil a bit with the Apples. Some are fond of Apple Sauce with cold Pork —ask those you serve if they desire it. Mushroom Sauce —(No. 305). Pick and peel half a pint of Mushrooms (the smaller the better), wash them very clean, and put them into a sauce- pan with half a pint of Veal Gravy or Milk, a little Pepper and Salt, and an ounce of Butter rubbed with a table- spoonful of Flour, stir them together, and set them over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender ;—skim and strain it. Obs.— It will be a great improvement to this, and the two following Sauces, to add to them the juice of half a dozen Mushrooms, prepared the day before, by sprinkling them with salt, the same as when you make Catchup;' or add a large spoonful of good Double Mushroom RAIS (No. 439). ‘ See QuINTESSENCE OF Mustrooms, No. 440. N.B. Much as we love the flavour of Mushrooms, we must enter our protest against their being eaten in sub- stance,—when the morbid effects they produce too often prove them worthy of the appellations Seneca gave them, 296 GRAVIES AND. SAUCES. ‘¢ Voluptuous Poison,” “lethal luxury,” &c.; and. we cau- tion those who cannot refrain from indulging their palate with the seducing relish of this deceitful Fungus, to masti- cate it diligently. ; We do not believe that Mushrooms are nutritive, — every one knows they are often dangerously indigestible, — therefore the Rational Epicure will be content with ex- tracting the flavour from them —which is obtained in the utmost perfection by the process directed.in No. 439: Mushroom Sauce, Brown — (No. 306). Put the Mushrooms into half a pint of Beef Gravy (No. 186, or No. 329); thicken with Flour and Butter, and proceed as above. Mushroom Sauce, Extempore — (No. 307.) Proceed as directed in No. 256 to melt Butter, —only, instead of two table-spoonsful of Milk, put in two of Mush- room Catchup (No..439 or No. 440) ;—or add it to thick- ened Broth, Gravy, or Mock Turtle Soup, &c.—or put in No. 296. . Obs. —This isa welcome Relish with Fish, Poultry, or Chops and Steaks, &c. A couple of quarts of good Catchup (No. 439),.will make more good Sauce than ten times its cost of Meat, &c. Walnut Catchup will give you another variety; and Baxu’s Cavice, which is excellent, and sold at No. 81, New Bond Street. Poor Man’s Sauce —(No. 310). Pick a handful of Parsley leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, strew over a little salt; shred fine half a dozen young green Onions, add these to the Parsley, and put them into a sauce-boat, with three table-spoonsful of ' Oil, and five of Vinegar; add some ground Black Pepper and Salt; stir together and send it up. Pickled French Beans or Gherkins, cut fine, may be added, or a little grated Horseradish. Obs. —This Sauce is in much esteem in France, where | | | . i GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 297 | “people of taste, weary of rich dishes, to obtain the charm of variety, occasionally order the fare of the Peasant. a the Rich, tired with continual Feasts, For change become their next poor Tenants’ guests ; Drink hearty draughts of Ale from plain brown bowls, And snatch the homely Rasher from the Coals.’’, DryDEn’s Prologue to ** All for Love.” The Spaniard’s Garlic Gravy —(No. 311). See also No. 272. Slice a pound and a half of Veal or Beef, pepper and ‘salt it, lay it in a stew-pan with a couple of Carrots split, and four cloves of Garlic sliced, a quarter pound of sliced Ham, and a large spoonful of water; set the stew-pan ‘over a gentle fire, and watch when the meat begins to Stick to the pan; when it does, turn it, and let it be very well browned (but take care it is not at all burnt); then dredge it with flour, and pour in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet Herbs, a couple of Cloves bruised, and slice i ina Lemon; set it on again, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half longer; then take off the fat, and strain the gravy from the ingredients, by pouring it through a napkin, straining, and pressing it very hard. Obs. — This, it is said, was the secret of the Old Spa- niard, who kept the house called by that name on Hamp- stead Heath. Those who love Garlic, will find it an extremely rich relish. Mr. Micwari Kevriy’s* Sauce for Boiled Tripe, Calf- head, or Cow-heel—(No. 311*). : Garlic Vinegar, a table-spoonful,—of Mustard, Brown Sugar, and Black Pepper, a tea-spoonful each, stirred into half a pint of oiled melted butter. Mr. Ketiy’s Sauce Prquante. Pound a table-spoonful of Capers,—and one of minced Parsley, —as fine as possible; then add the yolks of three * * Composer and Director of the Music of the Theatre bch Drury Lane, and the Italian Opera. 02 98 -GRAVIES AND SAUCES. chard Eggs, rub them well together with a table-spoonful of Mustard, — bone six Anchovies, and pound them, rub — them through a hair-sieve, and mix with two table-spsons- - ful of Oil, one of Vinegar, one of Eschalot ditto, and a few grains of Cayenne Pepper; rub all these well together in a “mortar, till thoroughly incorporated ; then stir them into half a pint of good Gravy, or melted soar and put the whole through a sieve. Fried Parsley—(No. 317). _ Let it be nicely picked and washed, then put into a cloth, and swung backwards and forwards till it is perfectly dry ;—put it into a pan of hot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the moment it is crisp (in another moment it will be spoilt); put it on a sieve, or coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. Crisp Parsley—(No. 318). Pick and wash young Parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to — drain the water from it; spread it on a sheet of clean paper, in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn it fre- quently until it is quite crisp. —This is a much more easy way of preparing it than Frying it, which is not seldom Hl done. Obs.—A very pretty ¢ garnish for Lamb Chops, Fish, &c. | Fried Bread Sippets-—(No. 319). Cut a slice of Bread about a quarter of an inch thick, ‘divide it with a sharp knife into pieces two inches square ;— ‘shape these into Triangles or Cresses;— put some very clean Fat into an iron Frying- pan: when it is hot, put in the sippets, and fry them a delicate light brown ; take them up with a Fish slice, and drain them well from Fat, turning them occasionally ; — this will ‘ake a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan at such a distance from the fire that — the fat may be hot enough to brown without burning the bread ; — this is a requisite precaution in frying. delicate thin things, . Obs. — These are a pretty garnish, and very reload accompaniment and improvement to the finest Mapp GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 299 Disurs:— they may also be sent up with Pease and other Soups;—but when intended for Soups, the Bread must be cut into bits, about half an inch square. - N.B. If these are not done very ite aa clean and dry, they are uneatable. Fried Bread-Crumbs—(No. 320). Rub Bread (which has been baked two days) through a wire sieve, or colander ;—or you may rub them in a cloth till they are as fine as if they had been grated and sifted ; put them into a stew-pan, with a couple of ounces of Butter, place it over a moderate fire, and stir them about with a wooden spoon till they are the colour of a Guinea; spread them on a sieve, and let them stand ten minutes to drain, turning them frequently. Obs.— Fried Crumbs are sent up with roasted Sweet- breads, —or Larks, — Pheasants, — Partridges, — Wood- ecocks,— and Grouse,—or Moor Game, —especially if they have been kept long enough. Bread Sauce—(No. 321). Put a small tea-cupful of Bread-Crumbs into a stew- pan, pour on it as much milk as it will soak up, and a little more; or, instead of the milk, take the Giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c. of the Poultry, &c. and stew them, and moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on the fire with a middling-sized Onion, and a dozen berries of Pepper or Allspice, ora little Mace; let it boil, then Stir it well, and let it simmer till it is quite stiff, and then ‘put to it about two table-spoonsful of Cream or melted Butter, or a little good Broth; take out the Onion and Pepper, and it is ready. a Ods.—This is an excellent accompaniment to Game and Poultry, &c., and a good vehicle for receiving various fla- vours from THE MaGazine or Tastr (No. 462). Rice Sauce—(No. 321%). Steep a quarter of a pound of Rice in a pint of milk, with Onion, Pepper, &c, as in the last Receipt ; when the rice is quite tender (take out the spice), rub it through @ 300 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Sieve into a clean stew-pan:. if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it. Obs.—This is a very delicate White sauce ; — and at elegant tables is frequently served instead of Bread Sauce. » Browninc—(No. 322) Is a convenient article to colour those Soups or Sauces, of which it is supposed their deep brown complexion de- notes the strength and savouriness of the composition. Burnt Sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the — Brewers, who use it under the name of “ Essentia Bina” to colour their Beer ;—it 1s also employed by the Brandy- makers, in considerable quantity, to colour Brandy ; to which, besides enriching its complexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught Brandy drinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cognac in its genuine state. When emp’oyed for Culinary Purposes, this is some- times made with strong Gravy, or Walnut Catchup. Those who like a got#t of Acid may add a little Walnut Pickle. It will hardly be told from what is commonly called “¢ genuine Japanese Soy,”* (for which it is a very good substitute). Burnt Treacle or Sugar,—the Peels of Wal- nut,—Cayenne pepper, — or Capsicums, — or Chilies, — Vinegar, — Garlic,— and pickled Herrings (especially the Dutch),—Sardinias, — or Sprats, — appear to be the bases of almost all the Sauces which now, to use the maker’s phrase, —stand unrivalled. Although indefatigable research and experiment bate put us in possession of these compositions, it would not be quite fair to enrich the Cook at the expense of the Oil- man, &c._we hope we have said enough on these sub- jects to satisfy ‘“‘ the Rational Epicure.” Put half a pound of pounded Lump Sugar, and a table- spoonful of water, into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it * ¢¢ By the best accounts I can find, Soy is a preparation from the seeds of a species of the Dolichos, prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt.”—CULLEN’S Mat. Med. vol. i. p. 430.. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 30 becomes a bright brown colour, and begins to smoke; then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees with water, till it is the thickness of Soy; let it boil, take off the scum, and strain the liquor into bottles, which ‘dust be well stopped: if you have not any of this by you, and you wish to darken the colour of your sates, pound ‘a tea-spoonful of lump-sugar, and put it into an iron spoon, with as much water as will dissolve it; hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a very dark brown colour ; _mix it with the soup, &c. while it is hot. -Obs.— Most of the preparations under this title are a medley of Burnt Butter, — Spices, — Catchup, — Wine, &c. We recommend the Rational Epicure to be content with the natural Colour of Soups and Sauces, which, to a well-educated Palate are much more agreeable, without any of these empyreumatic additions ; however they may please the Eye, they plague the Stomach most grievously, so “‘ open your Mouth and shut your Eyes.” For.the sake of producing a pretty colour, ‘‘ Cheese,”— “ Cayenne” (No. 404),—“ Essence of Anchovy” (No. 433), &c. are frequently adulterated with a colouring matter con- taining Red Lead! !-—-See Accvm on the Adulteration of Food, 2d Edit. 12mo. 1820. A scientific ‘‘ homme de Bouche de France” observes — “The generality of Cooks calcine Bones, till they are as black as a Coal, and throw them hissing hot into the stew- pan, to give a brown colour to their Broths. These ingre- ‘dients, under the appearance of a nourishing Gravy, enve- lop our food with stimulating acid and corrosive Poison. _ “ Roux, or Thickening (No. 257), if not made very carefully, produces exactly the same effect ; and the juices of Beef or Veal, burnt over a hot fire, to ‘give a rich colour to Soup or Sauces, grievously offend the Stomach, and create the most distressing indigestions. “« The judicious Cook will refuse the help of these incendiary articles, which ignorance or quackery only employ,—not only at the expense of the credit of the Cook, but the health of her employers.” N.B. The nest Brownine is good Home-made Glaze (No, 252),— Mushroom Catchup (No. 439),—or Claret,. ™ 7 302 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. or Port Wine. See also No. 257:—or cut meat into slices, and broil them brown, and then stew them. Gravy for Roast Meat—(No. 326). : Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &c. to make half a pint of plain Gravy, which you may colour with a few drops of No. 322 ;— for those that do not, about half an hour before you think the meat will be done, mix a salt- spoonful of Salt, with a full quarter pint of boiling Water; drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the jomt; set a dish under to catch it (the meat will soon brown again) ; set it by,—as it cools, the Fat will float on the surface } ‘when the meat is ready, carefully remove the Tat, and warm up the Gravy, and pour it into the Dish. The Common Method is, when the meat is in the dish you intend to send it up in, to mix half a tea-spoonful of Salt in a quarter pint of boiling water, and to drop some of this over the corners and underside of the meat, and to pour the rest through the hole the spit came out of, —and some pierce the inferior parts of the joint with a sharp skewer. “<< The followmg Receipt was given us by a very éoud Cook:— You may make good Browning for Roast Meat and Poultry, by saving the Brown Bits of Roast Meat or Broiled; cut them small, put them into a basin, cover them with boiling water, and put them away till next day; then put. it into a sauce-pan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it away for use. When you want Gravy for Roast Meat, put two table-spoonsful into half a pint of boiling water with a little salt ;—if for Roasted Veal, put three table-spoonsful into half a pint of thin melted Butter. N.B. The Gravy which comes down in the dish, the Cook (if she is a good housewife) will preserve to enrich Hasnes on LITTLE Mave Disues, &c. . Obs. —-Some Culinary professors, who think nothing can be excellent that is not extravagant,— call this “ ster Gravy;” not, I believe, intending it, as it certainly is, compliment to the laudable and rational oi deg | of that intelligent and sober-minded people. "GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 303 N.B. This gravy should be brought to table in a Sauce- | boat; preserve the intrinsic Gravy which flows from the meat in the Argyll. Gravy for Bowled Meat—(No. 397) May be made with Parings and Trimmings, — or pour from a quarter to half a pint of the liquor in which the Meat was boiled, into the dish with it, and pierce the in- ‘ferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer. Wow Wow Sauce for Stewed or Bouilli Beef—(No. 328). . Chop some Parsley-leaves very finely, quarter two or ‘three pickled Cucumbers, or Walnuts, and divide them into small squares, and set them by ready ;— put into a sauce- pan a bit of Butter as big as an egg; when it is melted, Stir to it a table-spoonful of fine Flour, and about halfa pint of the Broth m which the Beef was boiled; add a table-spoonful of Vinegar, the like quantity of Mushroom Catchup, or Port Wine, or both, and a tea-spoonful of made Mustard; let it simmer together till it is as thick as you wish it, put im the Parsley and Pickles to get warm, and pour it over the Beef, — or rather send it up in a Sauce-tureen. Obs.—If you think the above not sufficiently pequante, add to it some Capers, ora minced Eschalot, or one or two tea-spoonsful of Eschalot Wine (No. 402), — or Essence of Anchovy,—or Basil (No. 397),—Elder, or Tarragon (No. 396), or Horseradish (No. 399*), or Burnet Vinegar ; or strew over the Meat Carrots and Turnips cut into dice, — minced Capers, — Walnuts, —- Red Cabbage, — pickled Cucumbers,—or French Beans, &c. Beer Gravy Sauce—(No. 329),—or Brown Sauce for Ragott, Game, Poultry, Fish, sc. If you want Gravy immediately, see No. 307, or No. 252. If you have time enough, furnish a thick and well-tinned stew-pan with a thin slice of fat Ham or Bacon, or an ounce of Butter, and a middling-sized Onion ;—on this lay a pound of nice juicy Gravy Beef, (as the object in making Gravy is to extract the nutri- - 304° GRAVIES AND SAUCES. tious succulence of the Meat, it must be beaten’ to comminute. the containing vessels, and scored to. aug- ment the surface to the action of the water,) cover the Stew-pan, set it on a slow fire; when the meat begins to brown, turn it about, and let it get slightly browned (but take care it is not at all burnt): then pour in a pint and a half of boiling water, set the par on the fire ;— when it boils,—carefully catch the scum,—and then put “in a crust of Bread toasted brown (don’t burn it)—a sprig of Winter Savoury, or Lemon Thyme and Parsley —a roll of thin-cut Lemon-Peel, a dozen berries of Allspice, and a dozen of Black Pepper; cover the stew-pan close, let it stew very gently for about two hours, then strain it through a sieve into a basin. If you wish to THICKEN it, seta clean stew- -pan over a slow fire, with about an ounce of Butter in it; when it is melted, dredge to it (by degrees) as much flour as will dry it up, Stirring them well together; when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little of the Gravy,—stir it well together, aud add the remainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let it simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and skim off the fat, &c. as it rises; when it is about as thick as cream, squeeze it through a tamis, or fine sieve,—and you will have a fine rich Brown Sauce, at a very moderate Ex- pense, and without much trouble, Obs.— If you wish to make 2 still more Relishing, —if it is for Pouliry, you may pound the Liver with a bit of Butter, rub it through a sieve, and stir it into the Sauce when you put in the ‘thickening. - For a Racovut or Game, add at the same time a table-. spuontal of Mushroom Catchup, or No. 343,* or No. 429,. * One of ‘‘les bonnes hommes de Bouche de France” orders the following addition for Game Gravy:—“ For a pint, par-roast a Part- ridge or a Pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it into the Stew-pan when you thicken the Sauce.” — We do not rvecommend either Soup or Sauce to be THICKENED, — because it re-- quires (to give it the same quickness on the Palate it had before it was thickened) double the quantity of Piquante materials, — which are thus smuggled down the Red Lane, without affording any amusement to the Mouth, and at the risk of—highly cae the: Stomach. . GRAVIES ° AND SAUCES. 305 or a few drops of No. 422, the juice of half a Lemon, and a roll of the rind pared thin, a table-spoonful of Port, or other wine (Claret is best), and a few grains of Cayenne Pepper ; — or use double the quantity of Meat,—or add a bit of Glaze, or Portable Soup (No. 252) to it. You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a little Basil, or Burnet Wine (No. 397), or Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), or a wine-glass of Quintessence of Mushrooms (No. 450). See the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). N.B. This is an excellent Gravy ; and at a large Dinner, a pint of it should be placed at each end of the Table — you may make it equal to the most costly Consommé of the Parisian Kitchen. _ Those families who are frequently in want of Gravy, Sauces, &c. (without plenty of which no Cook can support the credit of her Kitchen), should keep a stock of Port- ABLE Soup or Gtaze (see No. 252): this will make Gravy immediately. sf Game Gravy—(No. 337). See Obs. to No. 329. Orange Gravy Sauce, for Wild Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, Widgeon, and Teal, &c. “4 No, 308). ! _ Set on a Sauce-pan with half a pint of Veal Gravy (No. 192), add to it half a dozen leaves of Basil, a small ‘Onion, and a roll of Orange or Lemon Peel, and let it boil up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville Orange, or Lemon, half a tea- a of Salt, the same of Pepper, and a glass of Red Wine; send it up hot. Eschalot and Cayenne may be added. Obs.—This is an excellent Sauce for all kinds of Wild water-fowl. The common way of gashing the breast, and squeezing in an Orange, cools and hardens the flesh, and compels every one to eat Duck that way : — some people like Wild fowl very little done, and without any Sauce. Gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat : 306 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. they keep hot longer; and it leaves it to the choice of the Company to partake of them or not. i Borne Boucue ror Goosz, Duck, or Roasr Pork — (No. 341). ; Mix a tea-spoonful of made Mustard, a salt-spoonful of Salt, and a few grains of Cayenne, in a large wine-glassful of Claret or Port-wine ;* pour it into the Goose by a slit in the apron just before serving up;+ or, as all the Com- pany may not like it, stir it into a quarter of a pint of thick melted Butter, or thickened Gravy, and send vt up m a Boat. See also Sage and Onion Sauce, No. 300. Or, A Favourite Reuisn for Roast Pork, or Geese, ¢, is, two ounces of leaves of Green Sage, an ounce of fresh Lemon-Peel pared thin, same of Salt, minced Eschalot, and half a drachm of Cayenne Pepper, ditto of Citrie Acid, steeped for a fortnight in a pint of Claret; shake it up well every day; let it stand a day to settle, and decant the clear liquor, — bottle it, and cork it close, —a table- spoonful or more in a quarter pint of Gravy, or melted Butter. } Robert Sauce for Roast Pork, or Geese, &c. —(No. 342), Put an ounce of Butter into a Pint Stew-pan: when i is melted, add to it half an ounce of Onion minced very fine; turn it with a wooden spoon till it takes a light brown colour; then stir in a table-spoonful of Flour, a table- spoonful of Mushroom Catchup (with or without the like quantity of Port wine), half a pint of Broth, or water, ant : ' * To this some add a table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup No. 439, and instead of the salt-spoonful of Salt, a tea-spoonful 0 Essence of Anchovy, No. 433. If the above articles are rubber together in a mortar, and put into a close-stopped bottle, they wil keep for some time. + Thus far the above is from Dr. HunTER’s “ Culina,” whi says it is a secret worth knowing :—we agree with him, and so tell i here ; with a little addition, which we think renders it a still mor | | gratifying communication. | ! | f e | GRAVIES AND SAUCES. | ‘307 ‘@ quarter of a tea-spoonful of Pepper, the same of Salt, give them a boil, —then add a tea-spoonful of Mustard, and the juice of half a Lemon, or one or two tea-spoonsful ‘of Vinegar or Basil (No. 397), or Tarragon sp ot); or Burnet Vinegar (No. 399). Obs. — The French call this “‘ Sauce Rovent” (from the name of the cook who invented it), and are very fond of it with many things, which Mary Smiru, in the “ Com- plete Housekeeper,” 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translates ney | Boat-Saucz. See Obs. to No. 529. ~Turtle Sauce —- (No. 343). | Pat into your Stew-pan a pint of Beef Gravy thickened (No. 329); add to this some of the following Essence of Turtle (No. 343*), or a wine-glassful of Madeira, the juice and peel of half a Lemon, a few leaves of Basil,* an Escha- dot quartered, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, or Curry powder, and alittle Essence of Anchovy ; let them simmer together for five minutes, and strain through a tamis : — you may introduce a dozen Turtle Forcemeat Balls. See Receipt, No. 380, &c. *» Obs. — This is the Sauce for boiled or hashed Calf’s head, -— Stewed Veal,—or any dish you dress Turtle fashion. The far-fetcht and dear-bought Turtle owes its high zank on the list of savoury Bonnes Bouches to the relishing and piquante sauce that is made for it ; without, it would -be as insipid as any other fish is without Sauce. See Obs. to No. 493. Essence of Turtle —(No. 343*). Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), one wine-glassful. | Eschalot Wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto. Basil Wine (No. 397), four ditto. Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), two ditto. Concrete Lemon Acid, one drachm, or some Aréificial Lemon-Juice ee: 407*), * See Basil Wine, No. 397. 308 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Lemon-Peel, very thinly pared, three quarters of an ounce. Curry Powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce. Steep for a week to get.the flavour of the Lemon- Peel, &c. Obs. —This is very convenient to ivtenporaneai Turtlefy Soup, Sauce, or Potted. Meats, Ragotts, Sa- voury Patties, Pies, &c. &c. Wine Sauce for Venison or Hare —(No. 344). A quarter of a pint of Claret or Port Wine, the same quantity of plain unflavoured Mutton Gravy (No. 347), and a table-spoonful of Currant Jelly: let it just boil up, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. Sharp Sauce for Venison — (No. 345). Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned sauce- pan, half a pint of the best white-wine vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded : set it over the fire, and let it simmer gently; skim it carefully; pour it through a tamis or fine sieve, and send it up in a basin. Obs.— Some people like this better than the Sweet Wine sauces. Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare —(No. 346). Put some Currant-Jelly into a stew-pan; when it is melted, pour it into a sauce-boat. N.B. Many send it to table without melting. ‘To make Currant-Jelly, see No. 479%. This is a more salubrious relish than either Spice or Salt, and when the Palate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked. — Currant-Jelly is a good accompaniment to Roasted or Hashed Meats. Muiton Gravy for Venison or Hare-—(No. 347). The best gravy for Venison is that made with the trim- mings of the Joint: if this is all used, and you have no undressed Venison, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces; broil it a little brown; then put it into a clean stew-pan, with a GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 309 quart of boiling water; cover it close, and let it simmer zently for an hour : now uncover the stew-pan, and let it — reduce to three quarters of a pint; pour it through a hair- sieve; take the fat off, and send it up in a boat. —It is only to be seasoned with a little salt, that it may not over- power the natural flavour of the meat. You may colour it with a very little of No. 322. __N.B. Some prefer the unseasoned Beef Gravy, No. 186, which you may make in five minutes with No. 252. Tue Quren’s Gravy or Mutton, as made by:her Majesty’s “ Escuyer de Cuisine,” Monsieur La Montagne. * Roast a juicy leg of Mutton three quarters; then cash it in several places, and press out the juice by a screw- press."— From Sir Kenetm Diesy’s Cookery, 18mo. London, 1669. 5 | Curry Sauce — (No. 348) Is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of Curry stuff, (see No. 455) into gravy or melted butter, or onion sauce ‘Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy (No. 299, or No. 339). | The compositions of Curry Powder, and the Palates of ‘hose who eat it, vary so much, that we cannot recom- mend any specific quantity. The Cook must add it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not to put in too much. Obs.—The Curry Powder (No. 455) approximates more nearly to the best Indian Curry stuff, and is an agreeable and well-blended mixture of this class of aromatics. N.B. To dress Curries, see No. 497. te Essence of Ham— (No. 351). _ Essence or Ham and of Brrr, may be purchased at the Eating-houses which cut up those joints,—the former “or half a crown or three shillings a Quart: it is therefore 1most Economical relish for Made-Dishes, and to give viguance to Sauces, &c. Grill Sauce —(No. 355). To half a pint of Gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of ‘tesh Butter, and a table-spoonful of Flour, PIOVAESy 310° GRAVIES AND SAUCES. well rubbed together, the same of Mushroom or Walnut Catchup,—two tea-spoonsful of Lemon-juice, one of made Mustard, one of minced Capers, half a one of black Pepper, a quarter of a rind of a Lemon, grated very thin, a tea-spoonful of Essence of Anchovies, and a little Eschalot wine (No. 402), or a very small piece of minced Eschalot, and a little Chili Vmegar (No. 405), or a few grains of Cayenne; simmer together for a few minutes, and pour a little of it over the Grill, and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen. For Anchovy toasts, No. 573, or No. 538. Or, Sauce & la Tartare. Pound in a mortar three hard yolks of Eggs; put them into a Basin, and add half a table-spoonful of made Mustard, and a little Pepper and Salt; pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about two wine- glassesful of salad oil,—stir it together till it comes to a good thickness. N.B. A little Tarragon or Chervil minced very finely, and a little Vinegar, may ‘xe added; or some of the in- gredients enumerated in No. 372. Obs. — This from the French Artist who wrote the Re- ceipt for dressing a Turcle. Mem.—These are ‘piquante relishes for Anchovy toasts (No. 573, or No. 533); for BRotten Devits, &c. “ Vée- ritable Sauce d’Enfer,” see No. 538; and a refreshing excitement for those idle palates, who are as incessantly mumbling out “‘ piquante, piquanie,’ as Parrots do “ Pretty Poll, Pretty Poll.” | ‘* For palates grown callous almost to disease, Who peppers the highest is surest. to please.”’ | GOLDSMITH. — Sauce for Steaks, or Cuops, CuTiets, &c. — (No. 356). See also No. 331. ' Take your Chops out of the Frying-Pan ; -— for a pound of meat keep a table-spoonful of the Fat in the Pan, or i 4 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 31t. put in about an ounce of Butter,—put to it as much flour as will make it a paste; rub. it well together over the fire till they are a little brown, —then add as much boiling ‘water as will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, and a table-spoonful of Mushroom or Walnut Catchup, or Pickle, or Browning (No. 322, or No. 449); let it boil together a few minutes, and pour it through a sieve to the Steaks, &c. _ Obs.—'To the above is sometimes added a sliced. “Onion, or a minced Eschalot, with a table-spoonful of Port wine, or a little Eschalot wine (Nos. 402, 423, or 135). Garnish with finely scraped Horseradish, or pickled Walnuts, Gherkins, &c. Some Beef Eaters like hopped Eschalots in one Saucer, and Horseradish grated. ‘i Vinegar, in another. Broiled Mushrooms are favourite Bptishes to Beef-Steaks. “Sauce Piquante for Cold Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c. q y _ or Salads—(No. 359). See also No. 372, and Cucumber Vinegar, Nos. 399 and 453. 1 rate _ Pound in a mortar the yolks of two eggs that have been ‘boiled hard (No. 547), with a mustard-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt; add two table- ‘spoonsful of Salad Oil; mix well, and then add three ‘table-spoonsful of Vinegar; rub it up well till it is quite ‘smooth, and pass it through a tamis or sieve. ' _Obs.—To the above, some add an Anchovy, or a table- Spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, or Walnut Pickle, some finely chopped Parsley, — grated Horseradish, —or young. Onions minced, or Burnet (No. 399), Horseradish (No. 399*, or No. 402), or Tarragon, or Elder Vinegar (No. 396), &c., and Cayenne or minced Pickles, Capers, “&c. This is a piquante relish for Lobsters, Crabs, Cold, fish, &c. ; Sauce ror Hasuzrs or Mutron on Beer —(No. 360).. See also Nos. 451, 485, and ro Make Piain Hasu, No, 486. Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the Palate of those you are working for,—shew those who: | 312 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. | | are to eat the Hash this Receipt, and beg of them to direct you how they wish it seasoned. Half the number of the ingredients enumerated will 2 more than enough,—but as itis a Receipt so often wanted we have given variety. See also No. 486. To prepare the Meat, see No. 484. Chop the bones and. fragments .of the joint, &c., and put them into a stew-pan, “and cover them with boiling water, six berries of Black Pepper, the same of Allspice, a small bundle of Parsley, half a head of Celery cut in pieces, and a small sprig of Savoury, or Lemon-thyme, or sweet Marjoram; cover up, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Slice half an ounce of Onion, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of Butter, fry it over a sharp fire for about a couple of minutes, till it takes a little colour; then stir in as much Four as will make it a stiff paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made from the bones, &c. ; let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour, till it is the consistence of cream, strain it through a tamis or sieve into a basin; put it back into the stew-pan; to SEASON IT, see No. 451, or cut in a few pickled Onions,— or Walnuts, —or a couple of Gherkins,—and a table- spoonful of Mushroom Catchup,—or Walnut or other Pickle Liquor, — or some Capers, and Caper Liquor, — or a table-spoonful of Ale,—or a little Eschalot, or Tarragon Vinegar; cover the bottom of the dish with Sippets of Bread (that they may become savoury reservoirs of Gravy), which some toast and cut into triangles. You may garnish it with fried Bread. Sippets (No. 319). N.B. To HASH MEAT IN PERFECTION,—it should be laid in this Gravy only just long enough to get properly warm through. be Ns ee Obs.— If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or ran from the joint when it was roasted, be left, it will be a great improvement to the Hash. If you wish to make Mock Ventson,—instead of the Onion, put in two or three Cloves, a table-spoonful of Currant Jelly, and the same quantity of Claret or Port ‘wine, instead of the Catchup. 7 aa : ng 7 ri f GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 313 _- You may’ make a Curry Hasn by adding some’ of No. 455. ; : _N.B. A pint of No. 329 is an excellent Gravy to warm up either Meat or Poultry. Sauce for Hashed or Minced Veal — (No. 361). See No. 511. Take the bones.of cold roast or boiled Veal, dredge them well with flour, and put them into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water, a smali Onion, a little grated or finely minced Lemon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small Lemon, pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a blade of pounded Mace ;—to Thicken it, rub a. table-spoonful of Flour into half an ounce of Butter ; stir it into the broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil very gently for about half an hour, strain through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to put to the veal to warm up, which is to be done by placing the stew-pan by the side of | the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bottom of the dish with toasted bread sippets cut into triangles, and garnish the dish with slices of Ham or Bacon. See Nos. 526 and 527. BecuameE., by English Cooks commonly called WHITE Sauce—(No. 364). Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two pounds of lean Veal, half a pound.of lean Ham, melt in a stew-pan two ounces of Butter; when melted let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the bottom (it requires great attention, as if it happen to catch at the bottom of the. stew-pan, it will spoil the look of your Sauce), then add to it three table-spoonsful of flour; when well mixed, add: to.it three pints of broth or water, pour a little at a time, that the thickening be smooth, stir it until it boil, put the stew-pan on the corner of the stove to boil gently for two hours, season it with four cloves, one onion, twelve pepper-’ corns, a blade of mace, a few mushrooms, and a fagot made . of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the Sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a tamis cloth. P 314 GRAVIES AND SAUCKES.. To make a BeciramEL Sauce, add to a quart of the above, a pint of good cream, stir it until it is reduced to a good thickness; a few mushrooms: give a good flavour to that Sauce; strain it through a tamis cloth. . Obs.— The above was given us by a French Artist, A more Economical Method of making a Pint of WurtE Sauce —(No. 364—2).. Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stew-pan with an onion and a blade of mace, set it on the fire to boil ten minutes, have ready and rub together on a plate an ounce: of Flour and Butter, put it mto the stew-pan, stir it well till it boils up, then stand it near the fire or stove, stirring” it every now and then till it becomes quite smooth, then: strain it through a sieve into a basin, put it back into the stew-pan, season it with salt and the juice of a small lemon, beat up the yolks of two Eggs well with about three table-spoonsful of milk, strain it through a sieve into your Sauce, stir it well and keep it near the fire, but be sure and do not let it boil, for it will curdle. Obs.— A convenient veil for boiled Fowls, &c. whose complexions are not inviting. Mem.— With the assistance of the Magazine of Taste: (No, 462) you may give this Sauce a variety of flavours. Obs.-—— BrecuaMEL implies a thick white Sauce, ap- 1 takes its name from a wealthy French Marquess, maitre d’hétel de Lous XIV, and famous: for his patronage of “ les Officiers de Bouche,” — who have: immortalised him, by calling by his name this delicate composition. _ Most of the French Sauces take their name from the per- son whose palate they first pleased, as “a la Maintenon ;” or from some famous Cook who invented them, as ‘‘ Sauce: Robert,” “a2 la Montizeur,” &c. We have in the English kitchen, our “Arey” for Gravy, and the little “ Sanpwicn,” “ monumentum ere perennius.” * And thus MonTEITH Has, by one vessel, saved his Name from Death.” Kine’s Art of Cookery: -GRAVIES AND SAUCES. , "815 Poivrade Sauce —(No, 365). . This, as its title tells us, is a Sauce of French extraction. The following receipt is from “ La Cusiniére Bourgeorse,” page 408. *« Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan _ with two or three (bits) of onion, carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, two eschalots, two cloves, a bay-leaf, thyme, and basil; keep turning ‘them in the pan till they get a little colour, —shake in some flour, and add a glass of red Wine, a glass of water, a spoonful of Vinegar, and a little Pepper and Salt, Bor half an hour, skim and strain it.” Mustard in a Minute — (No. 369). | Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar, an - ounce of flour of Mustard, with three table-spoonsful of Milk (cream is better), half a tea-spoonful of Sait, and the' same of sugar, rub them well together till quite smooth. Obs. — Mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter, and is therefore instantly ready for the table. N.B. It has been said that Flour of Mustard is some- times adulterated with common flour, &c. &c. The Musrarp sold at AporHecariss’. Hatt is excel- - lent, where may also be had all sorts of Peppers, Spiczs, _ &c. of the best qualitv, and very finely powdered. Mix (by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar) the best Durham flour of Mustard, with vinegar—white wine— or cold water, in which scraped Horseradish has been boiled ; — rub rt well together Jor at least Ten minutes, till it ts per- fectly smooth ; it will keep ina stone jar closely stopped, for a fortnight ; —only put as much into the Mustard-pot as will be used in a day or two. Tur Reapy-mapEe Musrarp prepared at the oil shops is mixed with about one-fourth part salt: this is done to preserve it, if it is to be kept long; otherwise, by all means. omit it. Phe best way of eating Salt is in substance. *x” See also Recipe No. 427. Ch ae ‘ 316 - GRAVIES AND SAUCES. a a Obs. — Mustarp is the best of all the stimulants that are employed to give energy to the Digestive organs.—It was in high favour with our Forefathers; in the North- aumberland Household Book for 1512, p. 18, isan order for an annual supply of 160 gallons of Mustard. — Some opulent Epicures mix it with Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled or flavoured Vinegar, instead of Horse- radish water. The French flavour their Mustard with Champagne and other Wines,—or with Vinegar flavoured with Capers,— Anchovies,—Tarragon,— Elder, — Basil, — Burnet, — Gar- lic,—Eschalot,—or Celery,—see No. 395 to No. 402 :— warming it with Cayenne, or the various Spices ;—Sweet,— Savoury,—fine Herbs,—Trufiles,—Catchup, &c. &c., and seem to consider Mustard merely as a vehicle of flavours. N.B. In Mons. Marttir et AcLocaqur’s catalogue of Parisian ‘“‘ Bons Bons,” theve is a list of twenty-eight dif- ferently flavoured Mustards. . Satt—(No. 371) Is (“‘ altorum condimentorum Condimentum,” as Plutarch ealls it,) Sauce for Sauce. Common Salé is more relishing than Basket Salt ;—it should be prepared for the Table by drying it in a Dutch oven before the fire ; then put it on a clean paper, and roll it with a rolling-pin ;—if you pound it in a Mortar till it is quite fine, it well look as well as Basket Salt. Maupin Sar is still more piquante. *x* Select for Table use the Lumps of Salt. Obs.— Your Salt-Box must have a close cover, and be kept in a dry place. Satap Mixture— (No. 372), See also Nos. 138* and 453. Endeavour to have your Salad Herbs as fresh as possi- ble; if you suspect they are not ‘‘ morning gathered,” they will be much refreshed by lying an hour or two in spring-water; then carefully wash and pick them, and trim off all the worm-eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves, and, after washing, let them remain a while in the colander GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 317 to drain; lastly, swing them gently in a clean napkin ;— when properly picked “and cut, arrange them in the Salad Dish,—mix the Sauce ina Soup plate, and put it into an Ingredient Bottle,* or pour it down the side of the Salad Dish, —and don’t stir it up till the mouths are ready for it. If the Herbs be young,—fresh gathered, —trimmed neatly, and drained dry,—and the Sauce-maker ponders patiently over the following directions,—he cannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished Salad- dresser. - Boil a couple of Eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in a basin of cold water for a few minutes,—the Yolks must be quate cold and hard, or they will not incorporate with the gredients. Rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a table-spoonful of Water, or fine double Cream, then add two table-spoonsful - of Oil or melted Butter ; when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful of Salt, or powdered lump Sugar, and the same of made Mustard; when these are smoothly united, add very gradually three table-spoonsful of Vinegar, rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorpo- rated with them ; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish _ the top of the salad with it. . Let the Sauce remain at the bottom of the. Bowl, and do not stir up the Salad till it is to be eaten ; — we recommend the eaters to be mindful of the duty of mastication,—without the due performance _of which, all undressed Vegetables are troublesome com- pany for the principal viscera, and some are even ene Sea ously indigestible. BorLeD SALAD. This is best compounded of boiled or baked Onions (af Portugal the better), some baked Beet-root, Cauliflower, or Broccoli, and boiled Celery and French Beans, or any of these articles, with the common Salad dressing; added to * These are sold at the Glass-shops under the name of Incor- PORATORS,—we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the Company can then take it or leave it, as they like. F718 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. this, to give it an enticing appearance, and to give some of the crispness and freshness so. pleasant in salad, a small quantity of raw Endive, or Lettuce and Chervil, or Burnet, strewed on the top: this is by far more wholesome than the Raw Salad, and is much eaten when put on the table. N.B. The above Sauce is equally good with cold Meat,- — cold Fish,—or for Cucumbers,—Celery,—Radishes, &c. (and all the other Vegetables that are sent to table un- dressed); to the above, a little minced Onion is generally an acceptable addition. Obs.— Salad is a very compound dish with our neigh- bours the French, who always add to the mixture above, Black Pepper, and sometimes Savoury Spice. The Italians mince the white meat of Chickens into this: sauce. The Dutch, cold boiled Turbot, or Lobster; or add to it a spoonful of grated Parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or mince very fine a little Tarragon,—or Chervil,—Bur- net,—or young Onion Pe ke pickled Gherkins, &e. Joan Cromwe tu’s Grand Salad was composed of equal parts of Almonds, Raisins, Capers, Pickled Cucumbers, Shrimps, and boiled Turnips. ' This mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled butter, (see No. 260*), or some good Jelly of meat (which many prefer to the finest Florence oil), and flavoured with Salad Mixture (No. 453), Basil (No. 397), or Cress or Celery Vinegar (No. 397*), Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399*), Cu- cumber Vinegar (No. 399), and Obs. to No. 116 of the Appendix, Tarragon, or Elder Vinegar; essence of Celery (No. 409), Walnut or Lemon Pickle, or a slice of Lemon _ cut into dice, essence of Anchovy (No. 433).. : | FORCEMEAT STUFFINGS — (No. 373). Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable accom- paniment to most Made Dishes, and when composed with good taste, gives additional spirit and relish to even that iy Sovereion of Savouriness,” Turtle Soup. GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 319 It is also sent up in Patties, and for stuffing of Veal, “Game, Poultry, &c.: The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no one flavour predominates. To give the same ‘stuffing for Veal, Hare, &c. argues a poverty of Invention; with alittle contrivance, you may make as great a variety as you have Dishes, I have given Receipts for some of the most favourite _ compositions, and a Table of Materials, a glance at which will enable the ingenious Cook to make an infinite variety of combinations: the First column containing the spirit, the Second the substance of them. The pozgnancy of Forcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness of the viands, to which it is intended to” give an additional Zest. Some dishes require a very deli- cately flavoured forcemeat,—for others, it must be full and high seasoned. What would be p:quante in a Turkey,— would be znszpzd with Turtle. Tastes are so different, and the praise the Cook re- ceives will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all her sagacity must be on the alert, to produce the flavours to which her employers are’ partial. See pages 45 and 46, Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in -stuffings, &c., and what exactly pleases one, seldom is precisely what another considers the most agreeable: and after all the contrivance of a pains-taking palatician, to combine her “‘ hauts gotéts” in the most harmonious pro- portions, *¢ The very dish one likes the best, Is acid, or insipid, to the rest.” Custom is all in all in matters of Taste,—it is not that one person is naturally: fond of this or that, and another naturally averse to it; but that one is used to it, and another is not. The consistency of Forcemeats is rather a difficult thing to manage; they are almost always either too light or too heavy. 329 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Take care to pound zt till perfectly smooth, and that sae the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. | Forcemeat balls must not be larger than a small Nut- meg,—if they are for Brown Sauce, flour them‘and fry them; —if for White, put them into boiling water, and boil them for three minutes; the latter are by far the most delicate. N.B. If not of sufficient stiffness, it falls to pieces, and makes Soup, &c. grouty and very unsightly. SwrEETBREADs and ToncusEs are the favourite materials for forcemeat. . STUFFINGS. 321 MarTenriats usED For Forcemeat, SturFines, &e. ‘Sprit. Common Thyme. Lemon-Thyme. Orange-Thyme. Sweet Marjoram. Summer and Winter Savoury. Sage. Fresh and green, or in dried Gprtagon (No. 396). / powder (No.461) Burnet (No. 399). Basil (No. 397). Bay-leaf. —., Truffles and Morells. Mushroom Powder (No. 439). Leek ; Onio Eschalot (No. 402). Garlic. Lemon-Peel (see Nos. et and 408). Shrimps (No. 175). Prawns. Crabs. Lobsters (Nos. 176 and 178). Oysters. Anchovy (No: 433). Dressed Toncur. (See N.B. to No. 373). Ham. - Bacon Black or White Pepper. Allspice. Mace. Cinnamon. Capers and Pickles (minced or pound- ed). rote Powder (No. 465). Soup Herb Powder (No. 467). Curry Powder (No. 455). Cayenne (No. 404). Zest (No. 255). SUBSTANCES: Flour. Crumbs of Bread. Parsley. (See N.B. to No. 261). Spinage. Boiled Onion. Mashed Potatoes (No. 106). Yolks of Hard Eggs (No. 574). Mutton. ; Beef. Veal Suet,* or + Marrow. Calf’s Udder, or Brains. Parboiled SwEETBREAD. Veal, minced and pounded, and Potted Meats, é&c. (No. 503).° For Liquids, you have Meat Gravy, Lemon- Juice, Syrup of Lemons (Nos. 391 and 477), Essence of An- chovy (see No. 433), the various Vegetable Essences (see No. 407), and Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), and the Wines, —and the Essence whites and yolks of Eggs, — of Spices. _* Tf you have no Suet, the best substitute for it is about one. third P2 part the quantity of Butter. 322 FORCEMEATS. © Stuffing for Veal, Roast Turkey, Fowl, &c.—(No. 374). Mince a quarter of a pound of Beef Suet (Beef Marrow is better), the same weight of Bread-Crumbs, two drachms of Parsley-leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet Marjoram - (or Lemon-thyme), arid the same of grated Lemon-peel: and Onion chopped as fine as possible, a little Pepper and Salt: —pound thoroughly together with the yolk and white of two Eggs, and secure it in the Veal with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread. Make some of it into Balls or Sausages; flour them,. and boil, or fry them, and send them up as a garnish, or in aside dish, with roast Poultry, Veal, or Cutlets, &c. N.B. This is about the quantity for a TurKEY Poutr: a very large Turkey will take nearly twice as much. To the above may be added an ounce of dressed Ham,—or use equal parts of the above Stuffing, and Pork Sausage Meat (No. 87), pounded well together. Obs.— Good Stuffing has always been considered a chef- d’ceuvre in Cookery: it has given immortality to *¢ Poor Roger Fowler, who ’d a generous mind, Nor would submit to have his hand confin’d, But aimed at all,—yet never could excel In any thing but stuffing of his Veal.” Kine’s Art of Cookery, p. 113. Veal Forcemeat -— (No. 375). Of undressed lean Veal (after you have scraped it quite fine, and free from skin and sinews), two ounces, the samé quantity of (Beef or Veal) Suet, and the same of Bread-. Crumbs ; chop fine two drachms of Parsley, one of Lemon- peel, one of Sweet Herbs, one of Onion, and half a drachm of Mace, or Allspice (beaten to, fine powder) ; pound all. together in a mortar; break into it the yolk and white of an Ee ge ;—rub it all up well together, and season it with a. little pepper and salt. Obs.—This-may be made more savoury by the addition of cold boiled pickled Tongue, Bee Eschalot, sei enne, or Curry powder, &e. + > a ie = yh ieee U ‘ ‘ f .: - nd . _ STUFFINGS.. 3 ‘$23 Stuffing for Turkeys or Fowls, §c. — (No. 377).. Take the foregoing composition for the Roast Turkey,— vor add the soft part of a dozen Oysters to it,—an Anchovy, —or a little grated Ham, or Tongue, if you like it, is still more. relishing. » Fill the craw of the Fowl, &c.; > but do not cram it so as to disfigure.its shape. Pork Sausage Meat is sometimes used to stuff Turkeys and Fowls, —or fried, and sent up as a Garnish. Goose or Duck Stuffing —(No. 378). Chop very fine about two ounces of Onion, of green Sage-leaves about an ounce (both unboiled), four ounces of Bread-Crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a walnut, &c., the yolk and white of an Egg, and a little pepper and salt; some add to this a minced Apple. For another, see Roasted Goose and Duck (Nos. 59 and 61), which latter we like as Forcemeat Balls for Mock. Turtle; then add a little Lemon-peel, and warm it with Cayenne. Stuffing for Hare —(No. 379). Two ounces of Beef Suet chopped fine,—three ounces of fine Bread-Crumbs,—Parsley, a drachm,—Eschalot, half a drachm,—a drachm of Marjoram, Lemon - -Thyme, or _ Winter Savoury,—a drachm of grated Lemon-peel,—and the same of Pepper and Salt ;—mix these with the white and yolk of an Ege,—do not make it thin,—it must be of cohesive consistence,—if your Stuffing is not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing,—put it in the hare, and sew it u “ If the Liver is quite sound, you may parboil it, and Bisa at very fine, and add it to the above. ec cancait Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes (No. 380). See also No..375. Pound some Veal in a marble mortar, rub it through a “sieve with as much of the udder as you have Veal, or about a third of the quantity of Butter:— put some Bread- Crumbs into a stew-pan, moisten them with milk, add a 324 FORCEMEATS. little chopped Parsley and Eschalot, rub them well toge- ther in a mortar, till they form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve, and when cold, pound, and mix all toge- ~ ther, with the yolks of three Egos boiled hard; season it with salt, pepper, and Curry powder, or Cayenne, add to it the yolks of two raw Eggs, rub it well together, and make small balls: ten minutes before your Soup is ready, put them in. , Egg Balls — (No. 381). Boil four Eges for ten minutes, and: put them into cold water,—when they are quite cold, put the yolks into a mortar with the yolk of a raw egg, a tea-spoonful of flour, ‘same of chopped parsley, as much salt as will lie on.a shilling, and a little black pepper, or Cayenne; rub them well together, roll them into small Balls (as the swell in boiling),—boil them a couple of minutes. Brain Balls. See No. 247, or beat up the brains of a Calf in the way we have above directed the Egg. Curry Balls for Mock Turtle, Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, &c. —' (No. 382) Are made with Bread-crumbs, the yolk of an Egg boiled | hard, and a bit of fresh Butter about half as big, beaten together in a mortar, and seasoned with Curry powder, see No. 455; make and prepare small Balls, as directed in No. 381. fish Forcemeat — (No. 383). Take two ounces of either Turbot, Sole, Lobster, Shrimps, or Oysters, free from skin, put it in a mortar, with two ounces of fresh Butter, one ounce of Bread-crumbs, the yolk of two Eggs boiled hard, and a little Eschalot, grated Lemon-peel, and Parsley, minced very fine; then pound it | well till it is thoroughly mixed and quite smooth ; season it with salt and Cayenne to your taste, break in the yolk and white of one Egg, rub it well together, and it is ready ; wm z nn } : - ; f | ae ‘ ) ae ° E Pa ’ é for use.- Oysters parboiled and’ minced fine, and an An- ey: may be added. > Zest Balis— (No. 386). See No, 255. Prepared in the same way as No. 381. Orange or Lemon-Peel, to mix wrth Stuffing — (No. 387). Peel a Seville Orange, or Lemon, very thin, taking off only the fine yellow rind (without any of the white), pound “it in a mortar with a bit of lump sugar, rub it well with the peel,—by degrees add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed with; when it is well ground and blended with this, “imix it with the whole: there is no other way of incorpo- rating it so well. Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by the insuf- ficient mixing ‘of the ingredients. ~Clouted or Clotted Cream — (No. 388). STORE SAUCES. ‘ga 5% The milk which is put into the pans one morning stands ° till the next; then set the pan on‘a hot hearth (or in a Copper Tray,* half full of water, —put this over a stove) ; in from ten to twenty minutes, according to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan, it will be enough, — the sign of which is, that bladders rise on its surface; this de- notes that it is near boiling, which-it must by no means do; and it, must be instantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy till the next OER» when the fine eream is thrown up, and is ready for the table, or for Butter, into which it is soon converted by stirring it with the hand. N.B. This Receipt we have not proved. Raspberry Vinegar — (No. 390). The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of the best white wine Vinegar on a pint and a half of fresh- gathered Red Raspberries in a Stone Jar, or China bowl (neither glazed earthenware, nor any metallic vessel, must. be used) ; ; the next day strain the liquor over a like quan- * A Bain-marie. See Note to No. 48&e- ‘\ 326 ' §TORE SAUCES. tity of fresh Raspberries; and the day following do the same. Then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a Jelly Bag (previously wetted with plain ‘Vinegar) into a stone Jar, with a pound of pounded lump ‘Sugar to each pint. When the Sugar is dissolved, stir it ‘up, cover down the Jar, and set it in a sauce-pan of water, — and keep it boiling for an hour, taking off the scum; add to each pint a glass of Brandy, and bottle it: mixed in — about eight parts of water, it is a very refreshing and de- lightful Summer drink. An excellent cooling beverage to - assuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, and inflammatory complaints, &c., and is agreeable to most palates. See No. 479*. N.B. We have not proved this Receipt. Syrup of Lemons —(No. 391). The best Season for Lemons is from November to March. ‘Put a pint of fresh Lemon-juice to a pound and three- quarters of lump Sugar; dissolve it by a gentle heat, skim it till the surface is quite clear,—add an ounce of thin-cut Lemon-peel; let them simmer (very gently) together for a few minutes, and run it through a flannel. When cold, bottle and cork it closely, and keep it in a cool place. Or, Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (Avozrdupors) of Citric, 2. e. crystallised Lemon-acid, in a pint of Clarified Syru (No. 475), flavour it with the Peel, with No. 408, or dis- solve the acid in equal parts of Simple Syrup (No. 475), and Syrup of Lemon-peel, made as No. 393. The Justice's Orange Syrup for Punch or Puddings — (No. 392). Squeeze the Oranges, and strain the juice from the pulp into a large pot; boil it up with.a pound and a half of fine Sugar to each pint of juice, skim it well, let it stand till cold, and then bottle it, and cork it well, Obs. — This makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavoured Punch; and, added to melted butter, is a good relish to Puddings. STORE SAUCES. 327 ; Syrup of Orange or Lemon-Peel —(No. 393). ‘Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or Lemon-peel, gree ounces, apothecaries’ weight; boiling water, a pint. nda half; infuse them for a night ina close vessel; then train the liquor; let it stand to settle ; and having poured _ off clear from the sediment, dissolve in it two pounds of ouble-refined loaf sugar, and make it into‘a syrup with a ‘entle heat. . Obs.—In making this syrup, if the sugar be dissolved n the infusion with as gentle a heat as possible, to prevent he exhalation of the volatile parts of the Peel, this syrup vill possess a great share of the fine flavour of the orange, x lemon-peel. Vinegar for Salads — (No. 395). «© Take of Tarragon ,— Savoury, — Chives, — Eschalots, three ounces each,—a handful of the tops of Mint and Balm,—all dry and pounded; put into a wide-mouthed Bottle, with a gallon of best Vinegar; cork it close, set it in the Sun, and in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the herbs, let it stand a day to settle, and then strain it through a filtering Bag.”— From Parmenrier’s Art de Fazre les Vinaigres, 8vo. 1805, p. 205. | Tarragon Vinegar —(No. 396). This is a very agreeable addition to Soups, Salad Sauce (No. 455), and to mix Mustard (No. 370). Fill a wide- mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered Tarragon-leaves, 2. e. between Midsummer and Michaelmas (which should be gathered on a dry day, just before it flowers), and pick the leaves off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire ; cover them with the best Vinegar, let them steep fourteen days, then strain through a flannel Jelly Bag till it is fine, then pour it into half-pint bottles; cork them carefully, and keep them in a dry place. 7 Obs. —You may prepare Elder-flowers and Herbs in the same manner; Elder and Tarragon are those in most general use in this country. 328 STORE SAUCES: A Our neighbours, the French, prepare Vinegars flavoured with Celery, — Gitnmbers ,— Capsicums, — Garlic, — Es- chalot, — Onion, — Capers, —Chervil, —-Cress-seed,—Bur- net, — Truffles, —Seville Orange-Peel, — Ginger, &c.; in short, they impregnate them with almost every Herb,— Fruit,—Flour,—and Spice separately, and in innumerable! combinations. Messrs. Marie et Aciocaus, Vinaigriers a Paris, sell) sixty-five sorts of variously favoured VinEGaAR, and twenty- eight different sorts of Musrarp. Basil Vinegar or Wine — (No. 397). Sweet Basil is in full perfection about the middle of August. Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of Basil (these give much finer and more flavour than the dried), and cover them with Vinegar, or Wine,— and let them steep for ten days; if you wish a very strong Essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days more. Obs.— This is a very agreeable addition to Sauces,— Soups,—and to the mixture usually made for Salads, see Nos. 372 and 453. It is a secret the makers of Mock Turrie may thank us for telling; a table-spoonful put in when the Soup is finished will impregnate a tureen of Soup with the Basil and Acid flavours, at very small cost, when. fresh Basil and Lemons are extravagantly dear. The flavour of the other SwEET and Savoury lounge CrLery, &c., may be procured, and preserved in the same manner (see No. 409, or No. 417), by infusing them in Wine or vinegar. Cress Vinegar —(No. 397*). ‘Dry and pound half an ounce of Cress-Seed (such as ig sown in the garden with Mustard), pour upon it a. quart of the best Vinegar, let it steep ten days, shaking it up every day. Obs. —This is very strongly flavoured with Cress,—and for Salads, and Cold Meats, &c., it is a great favourite FLAVOURING ESSENCES. 329: with many ;— the Quart of Sauce costs only .a Hal f- ese 4 more than the Vinegar. . Crvery Vinegar is made in the same manner. _ The Crystal Vinegar (No, 407*), which is, we believe, the Pyroligneous Acid, is the best for receiving flavours,-— having scarcely any of its own. Green Mint Vinegar —- (No. 398) ' Is made precisely in the same manner, and with the ‘same proportions as in No. 397. ' Obs.—-In the early season of Housed Lamb, Green Mint is sometimes not to be got; the above is then a welcome substitute. Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar —(No. 399). This is made in precisely the same manner as directed in No. 397. The flavour of Burnet resembles Cucumber so exactly, that when infused in Vinegar, the nicest palate would pronounce it to be Cucumber. _ Obs:—This is a very favourite relish with Cold Meat, Salads, &c. Burnet is in best season from Midsummer to Michaelmas. Horseradish Vinegar —(No. 399*). _ Horseradish is in highest perfection about November. ’ Pour a quart of best Vinegar on three ounces of scraped | Horseradish, an ounce of minced Eschalot, and one drachm of Cayénne; let it stand a week, and you will have an ex- eellent relish for Cold Beef, Salads, &c. costing scarcely _ any thing. N.B. A portion of Black Pepper and Mustard, Celery or Cress- seed, may be added to the above. Obs. — Horseradish: Powder (No. 458%). Garlic Vinegar —(No. 400.) Garlic is ready for this purpose from Midsummer to Michaelmas. Peel. and chop two ounces of Garlic, pour on them a quart of white wine Vinegar, stop the jar close, and let it 330 STORE SAUCES. ihe ten days, shaking it well every day; then pour off the clear liquor into small bottles. Obs. — The Cook must be careful not to use too much of this; a few drops of it will give a pint of Gravy a suffi- cient smack of the Garlic, the flavour of which, when slight and well blended, is one of the finest we have;— when used in excess, it is the most offensive. The best way to use Garlic, is to send up some of this Vinegar in a Cruet, and let the company flavour their own - Sauce as they like. N.B. The most: elegant preparation of the Onion Tribe is the EscHaLorT Wise, No. 402. Eschalot Vinegar — (No. 401) Is made in the same manner, and the Cook should never be without one of these useful auxiliaries ; they cost scarcely any thing but the little trouble of making, and will save a pie deal of trouble in mG 08 Soups and Sauces with | a taste of Onion. N.B. Eschalots are in high perfection during July, August, and September. Escuator Winzt —(No. 402). Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of / | | . Eschalots, and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten days, —then pour off the clear liquor on three ounces more | Eschalots, and let the wine stand on them ten days longer. | Obs. — This is rather the most expensive, but infinitely the Onion flavour to Soups and Sauces, for Chops, Steaks, — or boiled Meats, Hashes, &c. more agreeably than any: it | does not leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth, or to the - breath, nor repeat, as almost all other preparations of © Garlic, Onion,* &c. do. * 6 Tf Leekes you like, but do their smell dis-leeke, Eat Onyons, and you shall not smell the Leeke ; If you of Onyons would the scent expell, Eat Garlicke, that shall drowne the Onyons’ smell.” See page 59 of the Philosopher's Banquet, 16mo. London, 1633. the most elegant preparation of Escuatot, and imparts CAYENNE PEPPER. - $88 _ N.B. An ounce of scraped Horseradish may be added to he above, and a little thin-cut Lemon-Peel, or a few drops f No. 408. . Camp Vinegar — (No. 403). Cayenne Pepper, one drachm, avoirdupois weight. Soy, two table-spoonsful. Walnut Catchup, four ditto. _ Six Anchovies chopped. ; _A small clove of Garlic, minced fine. Steep all for a month in a pint of the best Vinegar, fre- quently shaking the bottle: strain through a tamis, and seep it in small bottles, corked as tightly as possible. CavENNE. Perper — (No. 404), _ Mr. Accum has informed the Public (see his book on Adulterations) that from some specimens that came direct to him from India, and others obtained from respectable Oil Shops in London, he has extracted Lead! “* Foreign Cayenne Pepper is an indiscriminate mixture of the powder ‘of the dried pods of many species of Capsi- cums,—especially of the Berd Pepper, which is the hottest of all. As it comes to us from the West Indies, it changes the infusion of Turnsole to a beautiful Green, probably owing to the Salt, which is always added to it, and the Red Oxide of Lead, with which it is said to be adulterated.” _ Duncan’s New Edinburgh Dispensary, 1819, Article Capsicum, p. 81. ’ The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless man- ner, and often looks as if the pods had lain till they were decayed, before they were dried : — this accounts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly has. If properly dried as soon as gathered, it will be of a clear red colour : to give it the complexion of that made with good fresh- gathered Capsicums or Chilies, some Annatto, or other Vegetable Red colouring matter, is pounded with it: this, Mr. A. assures us, is frequently adulterated with Indian Red, z. e. “* Red Lead!” _ When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a consider- able portion of Salt, to prevent its flying up and hurting 332 » STORE SAUCES. the Eyes: this might be avoided by grinding it in a Mill, which may easily be made close enough, especially if it be passed through a second time, and then sifted through @ fine drum-headed sieve, to produce as fine a powder as can be obtained by pounding; however, our English Chilies may be pounded in a deep mortar without any danger. _ Capsicums and Chilies are ripe and red, and in finest condition, during September and October: they may be purchased at the Herb Shops in Covent-Garden— the ‘former for about five, the latter for two shillings per hundred. The flavour of the Chilies is very superior to that of the Capsicums, and will be good in proportion as they are dried as soon as possible, taking care they are not burnt. Take away the stalks, ‘and put the pods into a Colander; set it before the Fire; they will take full twelve hours to dry; then put them into a mortar, with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound them, and rub them till they are ” fhe as possible, and put them into a well-stopped bottle. N.B. We advise those who are fond of Cayenne not to think it too much trouble to make it of English Chilies,— there is no other way of being sure it is senuine, — and: they will obtain a pepper of ‘auch finer flavour, without half the heat of the Foreign. A hundred large Chilies, costing only Two Shillings, will produce you about two ounces of Cayenne, — so it is as cheap as the commonest Cayenne. Four hundred Chilies, when the stems were taken off, weighed half a pound ; and when dried ee a haa of a pound of Cayenne Pepper. Essence of Cayenne —(No. 405). _ Put half an ounce of Cayenne Pepper (No. 404) into half a pint of Brandy or Wine; let it steep for a brea and then pour off the clear liquor. This rs nearly equal to fresh Chilv juice. Obs. — This or the Chili Vinegar (No. 405*), is ex- tremely convenient for the ertempore seasoning and finish- ing of Soups, Sauces, &c., its flavour being instantly, and I TS ” 7 ie _ | eon ; ~LEMON-PEEL. 333 equally diffused. Cayenne Pepper varies so much in strength, that it is impossible to season Soup any other way to the precise point of a pei ay Chili. Vinegar — (No. 405*). This is commonly made with the Foreign Bird Pepper; but you will obtain a much finer flavour from infusing fifty Fresh Red English Chiles (cut in half, or pounded) in a pint of the best Vinegar for a fortnight, or a quarter of an ounce of Cayenne Pepper, No. 404. ~ Obs.— Many people cannot eat Fish without the addi- tion of an Acid, and Cayenne Pepper: to such Palates this will be an agreeable relish. Chili, or Cayenne Wine — (No. 406). ’ Pound and steep fifty fresh Red Chilies, or a quarter of an ounce of Cayenne Pepper, in half a pint of Brandy, White Whine, or Claret, for fourteen days. Obs. —This is a “ Bonne Bouche” for the lovers of Cayenne, of which it takes up a larger proportion of its flavour than of its fire; which being instantly diffused, it Is a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish Soups and Sauces, &c. Essence of Lemon-Peel.—(No. 407). _ Wash and brush clean the Lemons ;—let them get per- fectly dry: —take a lump of Loaf Sugar, and rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the sugar ; — scrape off the surface of the sugar into a preserving pot, and press it hard down; cover it very close, and it will keep for some time. _ In the same way you may get the essence of Seville Orange-Peel. Obs. —This method of procuring, and preserving the flavour of Lemon-Peel, by making an Oleo-saccharum, is far superior to the common practice of paring off the rind, or grating it, and pounding, or mixing that with sugar :— by this process you obtain the whole of the fine, fragrant, essential Oil, in which is contained the flavour. 334 STORE SAUCES. Artificial Lemon-Juice — (No. 407*). | ‘ \ If you add a drachm of Lump Sugar, pounded, and six - drops of No. 408, to three ounces of Chrystal Vinegar, which is the name given to the Pyroligneous Vinegar, you will have an excellent substitute for Lemon-Juice —for Fish Sauces and Soups, and many other culinary pur- poses. The flavour of the Lemon may also be communi- cated to the Vinegar by infusing some Lemon-Peel in it. N.B. The Pyroligneous Vinegar is perfectly free from all flavour, save that of the pure Acid,—therefore, it is a very valuable menstruum for receiving impregnations from various flavouring materials. THe Pyrotigngeous Acip seems likely to produce quite a revolution in the process of curing Hams, Herrings, &c. &c.— See TrrLocn’s Philosophical Magazine, 1821, No. 173, p. 12. Quint-Essence of Lemon-Peel — (No. 408). Best oil of Lemon, one drachm. Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces, | Introduced by degrees till the spirit kills, and completely mixes with the oil. This elegant preparation possesses. all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the freshest. Lemon-Peel. Obs. — A few drops on the Sugar you make Punch with will instantly impregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious method of grating the rind, or rubbing the Sugar on it. It will be found @ superlative substitute for fresh Lemon- Peel for every purpose that it is used for: Blanc Mange,— Jellies, — Custards, — Ice, — Negus, — Lemonade, —and Pies and Puddings, — Stuffings, — Soups, — Sauces, a Ragotits, &c. See also No. 393. Tincture of Lemon-Peel — (No. 408*). A very easy and economical way of obtaining, and pre- serving the flavour of Lemon-Peel, is to fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of Brandy, or proof spirit ; and when FLAVOURING ESSENCES. 335 you use a Lemon, pare the rind off very thin,.and put it nto the Brandy, &c. : — in a fortnight it will impregnate he spirit with the flavour very strongly. Essence of Celery —(No. 409). Brandy, or proof spirit,.a quarter of a pint. Celery-seed bruised, half an ounce, Avoirdupois weight. . Let it steep for a fortnight. _ Obs. — A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of Broth, and are an excellent addition to Pease, and other Soups, and the salad mixture of Oil, Vinegar, &c. No. 392). _N.B. To make Celery Sauce, see No. 289. Aromatic Essence of Ginger — (No. 411). Three ounces of fresh-grated* Ginger, and two ounces of thin-cut Lemon-Peel, into a quart of Brandy, or Proof Spirit (apothecaries’ measure); let it stand for ten days, shaking it up each day. 3 Obs. —The proper title for this would be “ Tincture yf Ginger :” however, as it has obtained the name of “ Essence,” so let it be called. N.B. If Ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect, (© warm the Stomach, or dispel flatulence, — this is the Jest preparation. ' Essence of Allspice for Mulling of Wine —(No. 412). Oil of Pimento, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure. Strong Spirit of Wine, two ounces, Mixed by degrees: a few drops will give the flavour of Allspice to a pint of Gravy, — or Mulled Wine, — or to make a Bishop. Mulled wine made with Burgurdy is called Bishop; with old Rhenish wine, Cardinal ; and with ‘Tokay, Pope.—Rirrzr’s Weinlehres, p. 200. * The fragrant aroma of Ginger is so extremely volatile, that it vaporates almost as soon as it is powdered,—and the fine Lemon« eel yodt flies off presently. 336. STORE SAUCES. Tincture * of Allspice — (No. 413). Of Allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weights . Brandy, a quart. Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then pour off the clear liquor : : it is a most grateful addition in all cases where Allspice is used, for making a Bishop, or to MuLiep WineE Extempore, or in Gravies, &c., or to flavour and preserve Potted Meats (No. 503). See Sir Hans Sioane’s Obs. on Allspice, p. 96.- ‘ Tincture of Nutmeg — (No. 413*) Is made with the same proportions of Nutmeg and Brandy, as ordered for Allspice. See Obs. to No. 415. Essence of Clove and Mace — (No. 414). Strongest Spirit of Wine, two ounces, apothecaries’ measure. Oil of Nutmeg, or Clove, or Mace, a drachm, apothes caries’ measure. Tincture of Clove — (No. 415) Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. Brandy, one quart. Let it steep ten days: strain it through a flannel sieve. — Obs. — Excellent to flavour ‘* BisHop,” or “ Mulled Wine.” Essence of Cinnamon. — (No. 416). Strongest rectified Spirit of Wine, two ounces. Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. Tincture of Cinnamon — (No. 416*). This exhilarating Cordial is made by pouring a bottle of genuine Cognac (No. 471), on three ounces of bruised Cinnamon — (Cassia will not do). * Tinctures are much finer flavoured than Essences. FLAVOURING ESSENCES. 337 This restorative was more in vogue formerly than it is now :—a tea-spoonful of it, and a lump of Sugar, in a glass of good Sherry or Madeira, with the yolk of an Ege beat up in it, was called “ Balsatiain Vite.” “ Cur moriatur homo, qui sumit de Cinnamomo?”—Cinnamon is verie comfortable to the Stomacke, and the principall pe of the bodie.”’ “* Ventriculum, Jecur, Lienem, Cerebrum, Nervosque juvat et roborat.”*—‘* I reckon it a great treasure for a student to. have by him in his closet, to take now and then a spoonful.’’—CoGan’s Haven of Health, 4to, 1584, p. 111. Obs. — Two tea-spoonsful in a wine-glass of water, are a present and pleasant remedy in Nervous Languors, and in relaxations of the Bowels:—Zin the latter case, five drops of Laudanum may be added to each dose. Essence of Marjoram — (No. 417). Strongest rectified Spirit, two ounces. Oil of Origanum, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. VrcErTabLE EssENCcES — (No. 417*). The flavour of the various SWEET AND SAVOURY Herss may be obtained by combining their Essentzal Oils with Rectified Spirit of Wine, in the proportion of one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter, or by picking the leaves, and laying them for a couple of hours in a warm place to dry, and then filling a large- mouthed bottle with them, and pouring on them Wine, Brandy, Proof Spirit, or Vinegar, and letting them steep for fourteen days. Soup-Herb* Spirit — (No. 420). Of Lemon-Thyme, - Winter Savoury, - Sweet Marjoram, ‘Sweet Basil,—half an ounce of each. * For the season, &c. when these Herbs, &c. come in perfection, and how to dry them, see No. 461. Q 2 She | ae 338 STORE SAUCES. bi? Lemon-Peel grated, two drachms. Eschalots, the same. Celery-Seed, a drachm avoirdupois weight. Prepare them as directed in No, 461 ; and infuse them: in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for ten days: they may also be infused in Wine or Vinegar, but neither ex- tract the flavour of the ingredients half so well as the spirit. Spiret of Savoury Spice —(No. 421). Black pepper, an ounce,— Allspice, half an ounce, pounded fine. Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, artedamaial weight. Infuse in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit,. for ten days ; — on, infuse the ingredients enumerated in No. 457,. in a quart of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for the like time. Soup-herb and Savoury Spice Spirit—(No. 422). Mix half a pint of Soup-herb spirit with a quarter of a pint of Spirit of Savoury spice. Oxns.—These preparations are valuable aumiliaries to mmmediately heighten the flavour, and finish Soups, Sauces, Ragotts, §c., will save much time and reenl to the Cook, and keep for twenty years. Relish for Chops, &c.—(No. 423). Pound fine an ounce of Black Pepper, and half an ounce of Allspice, with an ounce of Salt, and half an ounce of scraped Horseradish, and the same of Eschalots, peeled. and quartered; put these ingredients into a pint of Mush- room Catchup, or Walnut Pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, and then strain it. Obs.—A. tea- spoonful or two of this is generally an acceptable addition, mixed with the Gravy usually sent up for Chops and Steaks (see No..356); or added to thick melted butter. : SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. - 329 Fish Sauce — (No. 425), Two wine-glasses of Bort: and two of Walnut Pickle, four of Mushroom Catchup, half a dozen Anchovies, pounded, the like number of Eschalots sliced and pounded, a table-spoonful of Soy, and half a drachm of Cayenne per; let them simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, and when cold, put it into bottles; well corked, and oct over, it will keep for a considerable time. ~ Obs. — This is commonly called Quzn’s Sauce, and was Riven to me by a very sagacious Sauce-maker. Keeping Mustard — (No. 427). Dissolve three ounces of Salt in a quart of boiling water, or rather Vinegar, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped Horseradish; closely cover down the jar, and let it stand twenty-four hours :—strain, and mix it by degrees with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat well together till quite smooth, and of the proper thickness ; put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and stop it closely. For the various ways to flavour Mus ard, see No. 370. SAUCE SUPERLATIVE*—(No. 429). Claret, or Port Wine, and Mushroom Catchup ase No. 439), a pint of each. _Halfa pint of Walnut or other Pickle liquor. Pounded Anchovies, four ounces. Fresh Lemon-peel, ae very thin, an ounce. F ie We eo this title will not offend those who may quote against ‘it the old Adage, ‘* that Good Appetite i is the best Sauce.”’--Allowing this to be generally true (which is a more candid confession than could be expected from a Cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers will vote with us, that there are many good things (Fish especially) ‘that would be rather insipid,—without a little Sauce of another kind. ‘¢ Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth, With such a fuli and unwithdrawing hand, Covering the earth with odours, fruits, and flocks, Thronging the seas with spawn innumerable ; a eee all to please and sate the curious taste | po oe MILTON. 340 SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. Peeled and sliced Eschalots, the same. Scraped Horseradish, ditto. _ Allspice, and © Black Pepper powdered, half an ounce each. : Cayenne, one drachm, or Curry-powder, three drach Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. . All avoirdupois weight. Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it up every day for a fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition of a quarter ofa pint of Soy, or thick Browning, see No. 322,) and you will have a “‘ DELICIOUS DOUBLE RELISH.” * * This composition is one of the ‘ chefs d’ceuvre” of many experiments I have made, for the purpose of enabling the good Housewives of Great Britain to prepare their own Sauces : it 1s equaliy agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragotts, §c., and as a fair lady may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, — by the certainty that all the ingredients are good and wholesome. Ots.— Under an infinity of circumstances, a Cook may be in want of the substances necessar’ to ake Sauce ; the above composition of the several ne fromn which the various gravies derive their flavour, will be found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large table-spoonful ‘with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, broth, or No. 252, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your Lingual nerves into good humour as any thing I know. To make a boat of Sauce for Potty &c. put a piece of butter about as big as an ege into a stew-pan, set it on . the fire; when it is melted, put to it a table-spoonful of flour ; stir it thoroughly together, and add to it two table- spoonsful of Sauce, and by degrees about half a pint of broth or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a few minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready, ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. 341 QUINTESSENCE OF ANCHOVY*—(No. 483). The goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely on having fine mellow Fish, that have been in.pickle long enough (2. e. about twelve months) to dissolve BpailyeniTst are not at all rusty. Choose. those that are in the state they come over in, not such as have been put into fresh Pickle, mixed with Red Paint,+ which some add to improve the complexion of the Fish, —it has been said, that others have a trick of putting Anchovy liquor on pickled Sprats ;} you will easily discover this by washing one of them, and tasting the flesh of it, which in the fine ‘Anchovy is mellow, red, and high- flavoured, and the bone moist and oily. Make only as much as will soon be used, the fresher it-is the better. Put ten or twelve os ee ito a mortar, and pound them to a pulp ;—put this into a very clean iron, or silver, or very well-tinned§ sauce-pan, then put a large table- spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer good vinegar) into the mortar; shake it round, and pour it to the pounded anchovies; set them by the side of a slow fire, very fre- — quently stirring them together till they are melted, which they will be in the course of five minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a drachm of good Cayenne pepper (No. 404), _* The invention of this favourite Fish Sauce is claimed by Mr. Thomas Young, see ** The Epicure,’ Harding, London, 1815, page 12. He says, there still is a cabal between some of the makers of this sauce, which of them makes it best. ‘Though they do not pre- tend to the invention, all of them denominate themselves the best makers. One is “ the real maker!!!” another ‘‘ the superior! ! 1°” another ‘‘ the improved!!!" another ‘‘ the original superior!!!” With cautions to guard against the ‘‘ spurious makers.” + ‘* Several samples which we examined of this Fish Sauce, have been found contaminated with ee »__See Accum on Adulter ation, mge 328. + They may do very well for common palates ; ; but to imitate the fine flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well-educated Gourmand, still remains in the catalogue of the Sauce-maker’s de- siderata. § The best vessel for this purpose is the pint Boinearte sold 1 Lloyd, Ironmonger, near Norfolk Street, Strand. 342 ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. and let it remain by the side of the fire for a few minutes longer; then, while it is warm, rub it through a hair-sieve,* with the back of a wooden spoon. The Essence of Anchovy, which is prepared for THE CoMMITTEE OF TasTE, is made with double the above quantity of water—as they are of opinion that it ought to be so thin as not to hang about the sides of the Bottle —. when it does, the large surface of it is soon acted upon by the air, and becomes rancid and spoils all the rest of it. A roll of thin-cut Lemon-peel infused with the Anchovy, imparts a fine, fresh, delicate, aromatic flavour, which is very grateful; this is only recommended when you make _ Sauce for immediate use,— it will keep much better with- out; if you wish to acidulate it, instead of water make it with artificial Lemon-juice (No. 407*), or add a little of Coxwell’s concrete acid to tt. Obs.—The above is the proper way to perfectly dissolve Anchovy+, and to incorporate it with the water; which, if completely saturated, will contmue suspended. To prevent the separation of Essence of Anchovy, and give it the appearance of being fully saturated with Fish,— various other expedients have been tried, such as dissolv- ing the fish in thin Water Gruel, or Barley Water, or thickening it with Mucilage, Flour, &c.,—when any of these things are added, it does not keep half so well as it does without them ; and to preserve it, they overload it with Cayenne Pepper. Mem.—You cannot make Essence of Anchovy half so cheap as you can buy it.—Thirty prime Fish, weighing a pound and a quarter, and costing 4s. 6d. and two table- spoonsful of water, made me only half a pint of Essence,— you may commonly buy that quantity ready made for 2s., and we have seen an Advertisement offering it for sale as low as 2s. 6d. per Quart. * The Economist may take the thick remains that won’t pass through the sieve, and pound it with some flour, and make AN« cHovy PasTr, or PowpER. See Nos. 434 and 435. + Epicure Quin used to say, ‘* Of all the Banns of Marriage I ever heard, none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicate ANN-CHOVY with good JoHN-DORY.” ‘ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. 343 ' It must be kept very closely stopped,— when you tap a bottle of Sauce, throw away the old perforated Cork, and put in a new taper velvet cork ;—7f the air gets to it, the Fish takes the rust,* and if is sporled directly. Essence of Anchovy is sometimes coloured} with bole Armeniac, Venice red, &c.; but all these additions dete- riorate the flavour of the sauce, and the Palate and Sto- mach suffer for the: gratification of the Eye, which, in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by the sagacious Gourmand at the expense of these two primum mobiles of his pursuits. | *. Essence of Anchovy is sometimes made with Sherry or Madeira wine, or good Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), . instead of water. Ifyou like the acid flavour, add a little citric acid, or dissolve them in good Vinegar. N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of using Anchovy, as each guest may mix sauce for himself, and make it strong or weak, according to his own taste. It is also much more Economical, as plain melted Butter (No. 256) serves for other purposes at table. _Awcnovy Paste, or le Beurre d’Anchois—(No. 484). - Pound them in a mortar, then rub it through a fine sieve ; pot it; cover it with clarified butter, and keep it in acool place. = ~ N.B. If you have Essence of Anchovy, you may make Anchovy Paste Extesnpore, by rubbing the Essence with as much Flour as will make a paste. Mem. This is merely mentioned as the means of making it immediately, — it will not keep. Obs. — This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of a little Flour of Mustard,—a pickled Walnut,— Spice (No. 460), Curry Powder (No. 455), or Cayenne, * <¢ Rust in Anchovies, if I’m not mistaken, Is as bad as Rust in Steel, or Rust in Bacon.” Youna’s Epicure, page 14. + If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some Lobsters’ Eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the Com- plexion of your Sauce, but improve its flavour. This is the only ‘Rouge we can recommend. See Note to No. 284. 344. . CATCHUPS. and then becomes a'tival to “la véritable Sauce d’Enfer” (No. 538),—or Pdté a@ la Diable for Deviling Biscuits (No. 574), — Grills (No. 538), &c. It is an excellent — garnish for Fish, put in pats round the edge of the dish, or will make’ Anchovy Toast (No. 573),—or Devil a Biscuit (No. 574), &c. in high style. Anchovy Powder—(No. 435). Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and make them into a paste with dried flour, roll it into thin cakes, and dry them in a Dutch oven before a slow fire; pounded to a fine powder, and put into a well-stopped. bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very savoury relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See Oyster powder (No. 280). Obs.—To this may be added a small portion of Cayenne Pepper, grated Lemon-Peel, and Citric Acid. Walnut Catchup—(No. 438). Take six haif-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, from two to three pounds, let them stand for six days, frequently beating and mashing them ; by this time the shells become soft and pulpy, then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and at the same time by raising the tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out: the mashing and banking-up may be repeated as often as liquor is found. The quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let’ it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients, let it slowly boil for half an hour; when bot- tled, let an equal quantity of the spice go mto each bottle ; when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork them tight, seal them over, and put them into a cool and dry place for one year before they are used.. N.B. For the above we are indebted toa respectable Oil- man, who has many years proved the Receipt. CATCHUPS. 345 - MUSHROOM CATCHUP—(No. 439). If you love Goop Catcuupr, gentle reader, make it yourself,* after the following directions, and you will have a delicious Relish for Made-dishes, Ragotits, Soups, Sauces, or Hashes. _ Mushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavour of Meat gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is the superlative substitute for it; in Meagre Soups and Extem- pore Gravies, the Chemistry of the “Kitchen has yet con- trived to agreeably awaken the Palate, and encourage the Appetite. A couple of Quarts of Double Catchup, made according to the following Receipt, will save you some score pounds of Meat, besides a vast deal of time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good Sauce as can be:made | for either Fish, Flesh; or Fowl. See No. 307. I believe the following is the best way of extracting and preparing the Essence of Mushrooms, so as to procure and preserve their flavour for a considerable length of time. Look out for Mushrooms from the beginning of Sep- tember. ‘Take care they are the right sort, and fresh gathered. Full-grown Flaps are to be preferred: put a layer of these at the bottom ofa deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with Salt, then another layer of Mushrooms, and some more salt on them, and so on alternately, salt and mush- rooms ; —let them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to break;—then pound them in a mortar, or mash them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day ;—then pour them intoa stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole Black Pepper, and half an ounce of Allspice ; stop * ‘¢ The Mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made Catchup, are generally those which are in a putrefactive state. In afew days after those Fungi have been gathered, they become the habitation of myriads of insects.” Accum on Culinary Poisons, 12mo. 1820. p. 350. Q2 346 . CATCHUPS. the jar very close, and set it in a stew-pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least.—Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair-sieve (without squeezing* the mushrooms) into a clean stew-pan; let it boil very gently for half an hour; those who are for SUPERLATIVE Catcuup, will continue the boiling till the Mushroom-juice is reduced to half the quantity, it may sna be call ed Double Cat-sup or Doo ; su There are several advantages attending this concentra- tion ; it will keep much better, and only half the quantity be required ;—so you can flavour Sauce, &c. without thin- ning it:—neither is this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is evaporated; skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day, then pour it off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug.) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly clear; add a table-spoonful of good Brandy to each pint of Catchup, and’let it stand as be- fore ;——a fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the Catchup is to be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints or half pmts (which have been washed with Brandy. or spirit); it is best to keep it in such quantities as are soon used. Take especial care that it is closely corked, and sealed down, or dipped in Bottle Cement. Pie kept in a cool, dry place, it may be preserved for a jeng time; but if it be badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil. Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again with a few peppercorns. We have ordered no more spice, &c. than is absolutely * The Squeezings are the perquisite of the Cook, to make Sauce for the Second Table ; do not deprive her of it, it is the most profit- able save-all you can give her, and will enable her to make up a good Family Dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the Mushrooms have been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, and make Musiroom PowpDER. if - CATCHUPS. 347 necessary to feed the Catchup, and keep it from ferment- . &c. The compound, commonly called Catchup, is generally an injudicious combination of so many different tastes, that the flavour of the Mushroom is overpowered by a farrago of Garlic, Eschalot, Anchovy, Mustard, Horse- radish, Lemon-peel, Beer, Wine, Spice, &c. Obs. — A table-spoonful of Dovsie Catcnur will impregnate half a pint of Sauce with the full flavour of Mushroom, in much greater perfection than either ae or powder of mushrooms. We have bought good Mushroom Catchup at Burer’s _ herb and seed shop, opposite Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. | QuINTESSENCE oF Musurooms—(No. 440). _ This delicate Relish is made by sprinkling a little salt over either flap or button Mushrooms ;—three hours after, mash them, —next day, strain off the liquor that will flow from them, put it into a stew-pan, and boil it till it is reduced to half. It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the Catchups, which, in order to preserve them, must have Spice, &c., which overpowers the flavour of the Mush- rooms. An Artificial Mushroom Bed will supply thes all the ‘year round. To make Sauce with this, see No. 307. ~ Oyster Catchup—(No. 441). Take fine fresh Milton oysters; wash them in their own liquor, skim it, pound them in a marble mortar, to a pint of Oysters add a pint of Sherry, boil them up, and add an ounce of salt, two drachms of pounded mace, and one of ' Cayenne,— —let it just boil up again, skim it, and rub it through a sieve, and when cold, bottle it, and “cork it well, and seal it down. Obls.—See also No. 280, and Obs. to No. 278. N.B. It is the best way to pound the Salt and Spices, ~ _ &c. with the ‘aglme ~ 348 CATCHUPS.. _ Obs. — This composition very agreeably heightens the. flavour of white sauces, and white made-dishes ; ‘and if you add a glass of brandy. to it, it will keep good for a con- siderable time longer than ‘Oysters are out of season in England. | | Cockle and Muscle Catchup—(No. 442) - May be made by treating them in the same way as the Y Oysters in the preceding Receipt. Pudding Catchup—(No. 446). Half a pint of Brandy, ‘‘ Essence of Punch” (No. 479), or ‘‘ Curacoa” (No. 474), or “ Noyeau,” a pint of Sherry, An ounce of thin-pared Lemon-peel, Half an ounce of Mace. Steep them for fourteen days, then strain it, and add a quarter of a pint of Capillaire, or No. 476. This will keep for‘years, and, mixed with melted butter, is a delicious re- lish to Puddings and Sweet dishes. See Pudding Sauce, No. 269, and the Justice’s Orange Syrup, No. 392. Potato* Starch—(No. 448). Peel, and wash a pound of full-grown Potatoes, grate | them on a bread-yrater into a deep dish, containing a quart of clear water; stir it well up, and then pour it through a hair-sieve, and leave it ten minutes to settle, till the water is quite clear: then pour off the water, and put a quart of fresh water to it, stir it up, let it settle, and repeat this till the water is quite clear; you will at last find a fine white powder at the bottom of the vessel. (The criterion of this process being completed, is the purity of the water that comes from it after stirring it up.) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair-sieve to dry, either in the sun or * “ Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by Frost, Germination, &c., provided they are raw, constantly afford Starch, differing only in quality, the round gray ones the most, a pound pro- ducing about two ounces.’ PaRMENTIER on Nutritive Vegetables, 8vo, p. 31. *¢ 1001b. of Potatoes yield 10lb. of Starch.” S. Gray’s Supplement to the Pharmacopeia, 8vo. 1821. p. 198. a POTATO FLOUR: 349 before the fire, and it is ready for use, and in a well- stopped bottle will keep good for many months. If this be well made, half an ounce (i. e. a table-spoon- ful) of it mixed with two table-spoonsful of cold water, and stirred into a Soup or Sauce, just before you take it up, will thicken a pint of it to the consistence of Cream. Obs.—This preparation much resembles the “ Indian Arrow Root,” and is a good substitute for it; it gives a fulness on the palate to Gravies and Sauces at hardly any expense, and by some is used to thicken Melted Butter instead of Flour. , As it is perfectly tasteless, it will not alter the flavour of the most delicate Broth, &c. Or THE Frour or PotaToEs. “‘ A patent has been recently obtained at Paris, a gold medal bestowed, and other honorary distinctions granted, for the discovery and practice, on a large:scale, of pre- ‘paring from potatoes a fine flour; a sago, a flour equal to ground rice; and a semolina or paste, of which 1/6. is equal to 124/b. of rice, 13/b. of vermicelli, or, it is asserted, 8Jbs. of raw potatoes. ‘*‘ These preparations are found valuable to maz with wheaten flour for bread, to make biscuits, pastry,. pie- crusts, and for all soups, gruels, and panada. « Large engagements have been made for these prepara- tions with the French marine, and military and other hos- pitals, with the approbation of the faculty. - * An excellent bread, it.is:said, can be made of this flour, at half the cost of wheaten bread. _“ Heat having been applied in these preparations, the articles will keep unchanged for years, and on board ship,. to China and back ; rats, mice, worms, and insects, do not infect or destroy this flour. _ Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten minutes” fit for food, when fire and all other resource may be wanted ; and twelve ounces are sufficient for a day’s sustenance, im case of necessity. “« The Physicians and Surgeons in. the Hospitals, in case 350 CURRY POWDER. of great debility of the Stomach, have employed these pre- — parations with advantage. _ “The point of this discovery is, the cheapness of pre-_ paration, and the conversion of a surplus growth of pota- toes into a keeping stock, in an elegant,’ portable, and salubrious form.” Salad or Piquante Sauce for Cold Meat, Fish, &c.— (No. 453). See also No. 372. Pound together An ounce of scraped Horsengevee! Half an ounce of Salt, A table-spoonful of made Mustard, No. 379, Four drachms of minced Eschalots, see No. 409, Half a drachm of Celery-Seed, see No. 409, And half ditto of Cayenne, see No. A04, Adding gradually a pint of Burnet, see No. 399, or Tarragon. Vinegar (No. 396), and let it stand in a Jax a week, and then pass it through’ a sieve. Curry Powder—(No. 455). Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night— and the next morning pound them in a marble mortar, -and rub them through a fine sieve. d. Coriander-Seed, three ounces ............. 3 Turmeric, three. OUNCES, . Seu ri. 6 Black Pepper, Mustard, and Ginger, one ounce Offemchs ssc. Ces ch Si ae an ee & Allspice and Lesser Cardamoms, half an ounce ofeach oo 0005 14 Lee eee 5 Cumin-Seed, a quarter of an ounce....:.... 1 ‘Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them in a well-stopped bottle. Those who are fond of Curry Sauces, may steep three ounces of the powder in a quart of Vinegar or White Wine . for ten days, and will get a liquor inpaees with all the flavour of the Powder. Obs. — This receipt was an attempt to imitate some of _ 3 ‘ eA “ -RAGOUT POWDER.. 351 the Best Indian sac Powder, selected for me by a friend at the India House :—the flavour approximates to the ‘Indian Powder so exactly, the most profound Palaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy of the original Curry Stuff. The following remark was sent to the Editor by an East Indian friend. “ The ingredients which you have selected to form the Curry Powpser, are the same as are used in India, with this difference only, that some of them are in a raw green state, and are mashed together, and afterwards dried, powdered, and sifted.”—For Curry Sauce, see No. 348. . N.B. Chickens, — Rabbits, — Sweetbreads, — Breasts of Veal,— Veal Cutlets, — Mutton, — Lamb, — ex Pork Chops, — Lobster, — Turbot, — Soles, — Eels, — Oysters, &c. are dressed Curry Fashion, see No. 497; or Stew thes im No. 329 or No. 348, and flavour with No. 455 a, Obs.—The common fault of Curry Powder is the too great proportion of Cayenne (to the milder Aromatics from which its agreeable flavour is derived), preventing a sufficient quantity of the Curry Powder being used. Savoury Ragott Powder —(No. 457 ). Salt, an ounce, Mustard, half an ounce, Allspice,* a quarter of an ounce, Black Pepper ground, and Lemon-peel grated, or of No. 407, pounded and sifted fine, half an ounce each, Ginger, and Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce each, Cayenne Pepper, two drachms. Pound them patiently, and pass them Lec aaale a fine hair-sieve ; bottle them for use. The above nate will pound easier and finer, if they are dried first in a Dutch * Tf you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead of Allspice put in Mace and Cloves. The above is very similar to the Powder-fort used in King Richard the Second’s Kitchen.. ys D. 1390. See ‘* Pegge Forme of Cury,”’ p. xxx. 352": PEASE POWDER.. oven* before a very gentle fire, at a good distance from. | it; —if you give them much heat, the fine flavour of them wil be presently evaporated, and they will soon get a strong, rank, empyreumatic taste. N.B. Infused in a quart of Vinegar or Wine, they make a savoury relish for Soups, Sauces, &e. Obs.—The Spices in a Ragotit are indispensable to give it a flavour, but not a predominant one ;— their pre- sence should be rather supposed than perceived ; — the are the invisible spirit of good Cookery: indeed, a Cook without Spice would be as much at a loss as a Confec- tioner without Sugar:—a happy mixture of them, and proportion to each other and the other ingredients, is the “< chef-d’euvre” of a first-rate. Cook. The art of combining Spices, &c., which may be termed the “‘ Harmony of Flavours,’ no one hitherto has at-_ tempted to teach: and ‘“ the rule of Thumb” is the only Guide that experienced Cooks have heretofore given for the assistance of the Novice in the (till now, in these pages explained, and rendered, we hope, perfectly intel- ligible to the humblest capacity) Occutr ArT .oF CooxEry.— This is the first time Recerpts in Cookery have been given accurately by Wze1cut orn Mrasvure!!! “(See Obs. on “ the Education of a Cook's Tongue,” pages 52 and 53.) PEASE POWDER — (No. 458). Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each of dried Mint and Sage, a drachm of Celery-Seed, and a quarter of a.drachm of Cayenne Pepper; rub them through a fine sieve. This gives a very savoury relish to Pease Soup, and to Water Gruel, which, by its help, if the eater of it has not the most lively imagination, he may fancy he is sipping good Pease Soup. * The back part of these Ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done too much, before those in the front are done enough. HORSERADISH atte hal ke. — 353 Obs. — A drachm of Allspice, or Black Paiee may be pounded with the above as an addition, or instead of the Cayenne. Horseradish Powder —(No. 458*). _ The time to make this is during November and De- sember ; slice it the thickness of a shilling, and lay it to Iry very gradually in a Dutch oven (a strong heat soon svaporates its flavour); when dry enough, pound it and ottle it. Obs.—See Horseradish Vinegar, No. 399*. Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable Relish —(No. 459). Dried Parsley, Winter Savoury, Sweet Marjoram, Lemon-thyme, of each two ounces ; Lemon-peel, cut very thin, and dried, and Sweet Basil, an ounce of each. *,* Some odd to the above Bay-leaves and Celery-Seed, 4 drachm each. Dry them in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven: when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, and pass them through a double hair- -sieve ; put them in a bottle closely stopped, they will retain their fragrance and flavour for several months. N.B. These Herbs are in full perfection in July and August (see No. 461*). An infusion of the above in Vinegar or Wine makes a good relishing Sauce, but the Havour is best when made with fresh-gathered herbs, as directed in No. 397. Obs.—This composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an invaluable acquisition to the Cook in those seasons or situations when fresh herbs cannot be had; and we prefer it to the Ragofit powder, No. 457: it impregnates sauce, soup, &c. with as much relish, and renders it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory nerves, without so. much risk of offending the Stomach, &c.. _ 354 TO DRY SWEET HERBS. Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Quintessence of Ragott —(No. 460). Take three parts of Soup-herb powder (No. 459) to one part of Savoury powder, No. 457. Obs. — This agreeable combination of the aromatic Spices and Herbs should be kept ready prepared: it will save a great deal of time in cooking Ragotts, Stuffings, Forcemeat-balls, Soups, Sauces, &c. ; kept dry, and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength may be preserved undiminished for some time. N.B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of Vinegar or Wine with a very agreeable relish, ~ To Dry Swzer anp Savoury Hurps—(No. 461). For the following accurate and valuable Information, the Reader is indebted to Mr. Burier, Herbalist and Seedsman (opposite Henrietta Street), Covent Garden Market, of whom the several articles may be obtained of the best Quality, at the fair Market Price. . _ It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing swEET HERBS. «< All Vegetables are in the haghest state of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower : — the first and last crop have neither the fine fla- vour, nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe. ‘“‘ Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt and dust ;* cut off the roots ; separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by * This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If you buy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt and dust by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands over a hair-sieve,—put them into the sieve, and shake them weil, and the dust will go through. wa aos TO DRY SWEET HERBS. 355 the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, 2. e. ‘ Kill em quick, says a great Bo- tanist;—— by this means their flavour will be best pre- served :—there can be no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, &c. hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution requisite is to avoid burn- ing; and of this a sufficient test is afforded by the pre- servation of the colour.”— The common custom is, when they are perfectly dried to put them in Bags, and lay them in a dry place; but the best way to preserve the flavour of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried, and to pound them, and put them through a hair-sieve, and keep them in well-stopped Bottles.* See No. 459. Bastt is in the best state for drying from the middle of August, and three weeks after, see No. 397. Kwnotrep Marsoram, from the beginning of July, and during the same. WinTer Savoury, the latter end of July, and through- out August, see Obs. to No. 397. SUMMER SAVOURY, the latter end of July, and through- out August. THYME, Lemon-THYME, OranGe-Tuyme,} during June and July. Mr, latter end of June, “and during July, see No. 398. Sacer, August and September. TaRRAGON, June, July, and August, see No. 396. CuErvit, May, June, and July, see No. 264. © Burnet, June, July, and August, see No. 399. Parstey, May, June, and July, see N.B. to No. 261. Frenne, May, June, and July. _ * The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a shelf in the Kitchen exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: thus they soon lose their flavour. + A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known. é 356 MAGAZINE. OF TASTE. ExLper Fiowers, May, June, and July. OranGE Frowers, May, June, and July. N.B. Herbs nicely dried are a very.acceptable substitute when fresh ones cannot be got, — but, however carefully dried, the flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs are in- comparably finer. THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE —(No. 462). This is a conyenient auxiliary to the Cook — It may be arranged as a pyramidical Epergne for a Dormant in the centre of the table, or as.a Travelling Store- Chest. The following Sketch will enable any one to fit up an assortment of flavouring materials according to their own fancy and palate, and, we presume, will furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of the gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred Grand Gourmand ‘of the first magnitude (if Cayenne and Garlic have not completely consumed the sensibility of his Palate), and consists of a ‘¢‘ SaucE-Box,” containing four eight-ounce bottles,* sixteen four-ounce, — and eight two-ounce bottles: 1. Pickles. © 15. Soy (No. 436). ° 2. Brandy.+ 16. Lemon-Juice. 3. Curagoa (No. 474). 17. Essence of Anchovy (No. 4. Syrup (No. 475). 433). 5. Salad Sauce (Nos. 372 and | 18. Pepper. 453). 19. Cayenne (No. 405, or No. 6. Pudding Catchup (No. 446). 406). 7. Sauce Superlative, or double | 20. Soup-herb Powder (No.459). relish (No. 429). 21. Ragoit Powder (No. 457). 8. Walnut pickle. 22. Pease Powder (No. 458). 9. Mushroom Catchup (No.439) | 23. Zest (No. 255). — . 10. Vinegar. 24. Essence of Celery (No. 409). 11. Oil. 25. Sweet Herbs (No. 419). 12. Mustard (see Nos. 370 and | 26. Lemon-Peel (No. 408). 427). 27. Eschalot Wine (No. 402). . Salt (see No. 371). 28.. Powdered Mint. —_ hm OO . Curry Powder (No. 455). * Tf the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces, as LyNr’s graduated measures are, it will save trouble in com- pounding. _- + The finest Branpy I have ever tasted I had from Mr. H. Hyde, No. 59, Mark Lane. MAGAZINE OF TASTE,. &c. he ST In a drawer under. Half a dozen one ounce bottles. Nutmeg-grater. Weights and scales. Table and tea-spoon. A graduated glass measure, di- | Knife and fork. vided into tea and table- | A steel, anda spoons. Small mortar. Corkscrew. | 1 6 14 22 é 15 23 2 8 16 24 9 17 25 3 | N.B. The portable Macazine or Taste alluded to in page 43, may be furnished with.a four-ounce bottle for Cognac (No. 471), a ditto for Curagoa (No. 474), an ounce bottle for Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), and one of like size for Mushroom Catchup. Toast and Water — (No. 463). ' Cut a Crust of Bread offa stale loaf, about twice the thickness toast is usually cut; toast it carefully until it be completely browned all over, but not at all blackened or burnt; pour as much boiling water as you wish to make 358 BEER CUP—CIDER CUP. into drink, into the Jug; put the Toast into it, and let it stand till it is quite cold: the fresher it is the better. Obs.—A roll of thin fresh-cut Lemon, or dried Orange- Peel, or some Currant-Jelly (No. 475*), Apples sliced or roasted, &c. infused with the bread, are grateful additions. N.B. If the boiling water be poured on the Bread it will break it, and make the drink grouty. N.B. This is a refreshing Summer Drink ; and Be the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse per- spiration, may be drank plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in the day, it will then become warmed by the heat of the air, and may be drank without danger — which water, Cold as it comes from the well, cannot in Hot weather. Or, To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and just cover it with boiling water; let it stand till cold, then fill it up with cold png Wael, and pour it through a fine sieve. Obs. — The above is a pleasant and Eerie beverage, grateful to the Stomach, and deserves a constant place by the Bed-side. Coo! Tankard, or Beer Cup —(No. 464). A quart of mild Ale, a glass of white Wine, one of Brandy, one of Capillaire, the juice of a Lemon, a roll of the Peel pared thin, Nutmeg grated at the top (a sprig of Borrage* or Balm), and a bit of toasted Bread. Cider Cup — (No. 465) Is the same,—only substituting Cider for Beer. “* ¢¢ BorRRAGE is one of the four Cordial flowers ;”’ it comforts the- heart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says Sat.. MON, in the 45th page of his ‘* Household Companion,” London, 1710. And Evyiyn, in page 13 of his Acetaria, says, ** the sprigs in wine are of known virtue to revive the Hypochondriac, and cheer the hard Student.’”-—Combined with the ingredients in the above- Receipt, we have frequently observed it produce all the Cardiac and. Exhilarating effects ascribed to it. ; FLIP TEWAHDIDDLE, &c. 359 Flip — (No. 466). Keep grated Ginger and Nutmeg with a little fine dried -Lemon-Peel, rubbed together in a mortar. To make a quart of Flip : — Put the Ale on the fire to warm, and beat up three or four Eggs with four ounces of moist Sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated Nutmeg or Ginger, and a quartern of good old Rum or Brandy. When the Ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the Rum and Eggs, &c. into another ;—turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as Cream. N.B. This quantity I styled One Yard of Flannel. Obs.—The above is set down in the words of the Publi-. can who gave us the Receipt. Tewahdiddle — (No. 467). A pint of Table Beer (or Ale, if you intend it for a sup- plement to your “‘ Night Cap”), a table-spoonful of Brandy, and a tea-spoonful of brown Sugar, or Clarified Syrup (No. 475)—a little grated Nutmeg or Ginger may be added, and a roll of very thin-cut Lemon- Peel. Obs. — Before our readers make any remarks on this Composition, we beg of them to taste it: if the materials are good, and their palate vibrates in unison with our own, they will find it one of the pleasantest beverages they ever put to their lips, —and, as Lord Ruthven says, “ this is a Right Gossip’s Cup that far exceeds all the Ale that ever Morurr Buncu made in her life-time.”—See his ° Lordship’s Experiments in Cookery, &c. 18mo. London, 1654, p. 215. Sir FLerrwoop SHEPHERD’sS SACK ReesRty- (No. 467*). “ From fam’d Barbadoes on the western main Fetch Sugar, ounces four — fetch Sack from Spain, A pint,—and from the Eastern Indian Coast Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast ; - O’er flaming Coals let them together heat, Till the all-conquering Sack dissolve the Sweet ; 360 TO BOTTLE BEER, &c. O’er such another fire put Eggs just ten, New-born from tread of Cock and Rump of Hen : Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking To see the untimely end of ten fine Chicken ; From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet,— A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. When boiled and cold, put milk and Sack to Eggs, Unite them firmly like the triple league, And on the fire let them together dwell Till Miss sing twice—you must not kiss and tell— Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, And fall on fiercely like a starved Dragoon.” To Bottle Beer—(No. 468). When the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in th cask fail, and they become dead and vapid, which the generally do soon after they are tilted, —let them b Bottled. Be careful to use clean and dried bottles ; leave ther unstopped for twelve hours, and then cork them’as closel as possible with good and sound new Corks; put a bit c lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each Bottle: the Bee will be ripe, 2. é. fine and sparkling, in about four or fiv weeks: if the weather vs cold, to put at up the day befor at 1s drank, place it in a room where there ws a Fire. “Remember there is a sediment, &c. at the bottom the Bottles, which you must carefully avoid disturbing, — so pour it off at once, leaving a wine-glassful at th bottom. *.* If Beer becomes Hard or Stale, a few grains 0 Carbonate of Potash added to rt at the time it rs dran. will correct it, and make Draught Beer as brisk a Bottled Ale. Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy — (No. 469). Bruise the finest ripe Raspberries with the back of : ‘spoon; strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jat ‘allowing a pound of fine powdered Loaf Sugar to eacl ‘quart of juice; stir it well together, and cover it down let it stand for three days, stirring it up each day; pou -off the clear, and put two quarts of Sherry, or one o LIQUEURS. 361 > ‘Cognac Brandy, to each quart of juice; bottle it off: it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight. N.B. Or make it with the Jelly, No. 479. Liqguzurs — (No. 471). We have very little to tell from our own experience, and refer our Reader to “‘ Nouverite Cuimiz pu Gout er DE L’Oporart, ou l’Art du Distillateur, du Confiseur, et du Parfumeur,.mis @ la portée de tout le Monde,” — Paris, 2 tom. 8vo. 1819. Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the information where those things may be procured ready _ - made of the best quality. | It ts in vain to atiempi to imitate the best ForE1eNn Liqueurs, unless we can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made. Jounson and Co., Foreign Liqueur and Brandy Mer- chants to his Majesty and the Royal Family,.No. 2, — | Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous for importing of the best quality, and selling in a genuine state, seventy-one varieties of Foreign Liqueurs, &c. : Curacoa — (No. 474). . Put five ounces of thin-cut Seville Orange-Peel, that has been dried and pounded, or, which is still better, of the fresh Peel of a fresh Shaddock, which may be bought at ' ~ the Orange and Lemon shops in the beginning of March, into a quart of the finest and cleanest Rectified Spirit,— after it has been infused a fortnight, strain it, and add a quart of Syrup (No. 475), and filter; see the following Receipt :— To make a Quart of Curacoa. To a pint of the cleanest and strongest Rectijied Spirit, add two drachms and a half of the Sweet Ol of Orange- Peel, shake it up,—dissolve a pound of good Lump Sugar in a pint of cold water, make this into a Clarified Syrup {No. 475), which add to the Spirit, shake it up, and. let it stand till the following day,—then line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and that with filtering-paper, and filter it R 362 LEMONADE IN A MINUTE. two or three times till'it is quite bright. This Liqueur is an admirable cordial,—and a tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing Summer Drink, and a great im- provement to PuncuH. Clarified Syrup — (No. 475), Break into bits two Pounds (avoirdupois) of double re- fined Lump Sugar, and put it into a clean stew-pan (that is well tinned), with a pint of cold spring-water; when the Sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire: beat about half the white of an Egg, put it to the Sugar before it gets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it, and when it boils take off the scum ; keep it boiling till no scum rises, . and it is perfectly clear, then run it through a clean napkin: put it into a close-stopped bottle; it will keep for months, and is an elegant Article on the Sideboard for Sweetening. Obs.—The proportion of Sugar ordered in the above Syrup is a quarter pound more “than that directed in the. Pharmacopeeia of the London College of Physicians. The “quantity of Sugar must be as much as the liquor is capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will ferment, and quickly spoil; if kept in a temperate degree of heat, the above proportion of Sugar may be considered the basis of © all Syrups. Capillaire — (No. 476). To a pint of Clarified Syrup add a wine-glass of Curagoa (No. 474),—or dissolve a drachm of Oil of Nerolz in two ounces of Rectified Spirit, and add a few drops of it to Clarified Syrup. . LemonapE in a presrany, A477). Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of Citric, 2. e. crystallised Lemon Acid,* with a few _drops of quint- essence of Lemon-Peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint of Clarified Syrup (No. 475), or Capillaire. * Tartaric is only half the price of Citrie Acid ; but it is very ins | ferior in flavour, &c:; and those who: prepare this Syrup for Home: Consumption, will always use the Cédric. : _ 4 id ¥ PUNCH DIRECTLY. » 363 ~ For Superlative Syrup of Lemons, see No, 391. ~ Obs.—The proportion of Acid to the Syrup, was that selected (from several specimens) by the: CommiTrsE oF Taste. We advise those who are disposed to verify our Receipt, to mix only three quarters of a pint of Syrup first, and add the other quarter if they find it. too acid. If you have none of No. 408, flavour your Syrup with thin-cut Lemon- Peel, or use Syrup of Lemon - Peel (No. 393). A table-spoonful of this in a pint of wader will imme- diately produce a very agreeable Sherbet ; the addition of Rum and Brandy will convert this into Puncn pirectiy — (No. 478). . Shrub, or Essence of Punch — (No. 479). _ Brandy or Rum, flavoured with No. 477, will give you very good extempore ‘‘ EssENCE OF Puncu.” Obs.—The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira makes ‘‘ Puncu Royat;” if, instead of Wine, the above quantity of Water be added, it will make “ Punch Sor Chambermaids,” according to SaLMoN’s Cookery, 8vo. London, 1710; see page 405; and No. 268 in Norv’s | | ee Dictionary, 8vo. 1724. Whit, Red, or Black Currant,—Grape,—Raspberry, &e. Jelly — (No, 479%) Are all made precisely in the same manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day : —as soon as it is nicely picked, put it into a Jar, and cover it down very close. Set the Jar in a sauce-pan about. three paits. filled with cold water; put it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the Jar into a Jelly-Bag: pass the juice through a second time; —do not squeeze the bag. To each Pint of juice add a pound and. a half of very ‘good Lump Sugar pounded ; when it is dissolved, put it ‘into a preserving-pan, set it on the fire, and boil. gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or k 364 CALVES’ FEET JELLY. forty minutes), 2. e. till no more scum. rises;—and it is per- fectly clear and fine: pour it while warm into pots,—and when cold, cover them with paper wetted in Brandy. Half a pint of this Jelly,: dissolved in a pint of Brandy _ oF Vinegar, will give you excellent Currant or Raspberry _ Brandy or Vinegar. To make Sweet Sauce, see No. 346. Obs. — JELLIES from other fruits are made in the sume _ way,—and cannot be preserved in perfection without pent of good Sugar. Those who wish Jelly to turn out very ay ee . Isinglass in a little water, strain through a sieve, and add it in the proportion of half an ounce to a pint of Juice, and put it in with the Sugar. The best way is the cheapest,—Jellies made with too small a proportion of Sugar—require boiling so long—there is much more waste of juice and flavour by evaporation than the due quantity of Sugar costs; and they neither look nor taste half so delicate, as when made with a proper proportion of Sugar, and moderate boiling. Mock Arrack — (No. 480). Dissolve two scruples of flowers of Benjamin in a quart of good Rum, and it will immediately impart to it the in- viting fragrance of “ VauxHaLy Nectar.” Calves’ Feet Jelly —(No. 481). Take four Calves’ Feet (not those which are sold at Tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all the Gelatine is extracted,—but buy them at the Butcher’s), slit them in two, take away the Fat from between the claws, | wash them well in lukewarm water, then put them in a large stew-pan, and cover them with water; when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be reduced to about two quarts, then) strain it through a sieve, and skim off all the oily substance| which is on the surface of the liquor. If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the Calves’ } feet the day before you make the Jelly, as when the liquor. is cold, the oily part being at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paper applied to it, you may CALVES’ FEET JELLY. 365 remove every particle of the oily substance, without wasting any of the liquor. Put the Liquor in a stew-pan to melt, with a pound of Lump Sugar, the peel of two Lemons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of Eggs beat together, and a bottle of Sherry or Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is on the boil, then put it by the side of the stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour; strain it through a Jelly- bag; what is strained first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright and as clear as rock-water; then put the Jelly in moulds, to be cold and firm; if the weather Is too warm, it requires some ice. Obs. — When it is wished to be very stzff, half an ounce of Isinglass may be added when the Wine is put in. It may be flavoured by the juice of various Fruits, and Spices, &c. and coloured with Saffron,—Cochineal,— ‘Red Beet Juice,—Spinage Juice,—Claret, &c.—and it is ‘sometimes made with Cherry Brandy, or Noyeau Rouge,— -or Curacgoa (No. 474), or Essence of Punch (No. 479), instead of Wine. N.B. Ten SHanx Bones or Mutton, which may be bought for 23d., will give as much Jelly as a Calf’s foot, which costs a Shilling. See twenty-three lines from the top of page 275 of this work. THE COOK’S ORACLE. MADE DISHES, &c. Receipts for Economical Mave Disues, written for the Cooxk’s OracLe—by an accomplished Encuisn Lapy. (No. 483.) Turse Experiments have arisen from my aversion to Cold Meat, and my preference for what are termed Frencu Disuss; with which (by a certain management) I think I can furnish my table at far less expense—than is gene-_ rally incurred in getting up a Plain Dinner. Gravy orn Soup Meats I néver buy,—and yet am sel- dom without a good provision of what is technically deno- minated Stock. When, as it frequently happens, we have Ham dressed, if the Joint be above the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared in the following manner :—First, ensure that it has been properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a nicety,—then put it into an Earthen Vessel, as near its own size as possible, with just as much water | as will cover it, to which add four Onions, a clove of Garlic, half a dozen Eschalots, a Bay-leaf, a bunch of Sweet ‘herbs, half a dozen Cloves, a few Peppercorns and Allspice : this should be well closed, and kept semmering about three hours. It is then served with Raspings or | with Glazing, the rind having first been taken off neatly The liquor is strained, and kept till Poultry of any sort, or Meat, is boiled, when the liquor in which they have been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down fast till reduced to about three pints: ‘when cold, it will be a MADE DISHES, &c. 367 highly flavoured, well-coloured Jelly,* and ready for Sauce | for all kinds of Ragowts and Hashes, &c. &c. A Fitter or Veau f£ divide into Three Parts; the Meat before it is skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, and will pull asunder as you would quarter an Orange ;—the Largest Piece should be stuffed with No. 374 or No. 375, and rolled up, compactly ‘skewered, &c. and makes a very pretty small Fillet, — the square flat Piece will either cut into Cutlets (No. 90, -or No. 521), or slice for a Pie,—and the Thick Piece must be well larded and dressed as a Fricandeau-—which I do in the following manner :—Put the larded Veal into a stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as will cover it; when it has sémmered till delicately white, and so tender as to be cut with a Spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart,—and it will be ready to serve up either with Sorrel, Tomata, Mushrooms (No. 305, or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned Stock— the Fricandeau being previously coloured with Glazing,— if with Mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in Salt, and Vinegar, and Water, which gives them flavour, and keeps them of a good colour. | Tue Srrioiw or Beer I lkewise divide into Three Parts ; I first have it nicely boned. The Under part, or Fillet, as the French call it, will dress (when cut into slices) excellently, either as plain Steaks (No. 94), Curry (No. 197), or it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts of water (a Bay- leaf, two Onions, their skins roasted brown, four Cloves, Allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it should be taken out, drained quite dry, and put away,—it is then ready to be used at any time in the following manner: — Season and dredge it well, then put ‘it into a stew-pan in which a ‘piece of Butter has been previously fried to a fine froth ; when the Meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the pan half a dozen middle-sized Onions, todo afine . Gold Colour; that accomplished, (during which the Dred-' * This may be still longer preserved-——by the process directed in No. 252. 368 MADE DISHES, &c. ger should be in constant use,) add half a pint of Stock, and a tea-spoonful of Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), and let the Onions stew gently till nearly tender: the Beef should then be returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to simmer till the meat is warm through: care must be taken that the Onions do not break, and they should be served round the Beef with as much Sauce as will look graceful in the dish. The Fillet is likewise very good without the fried Onions ;—in that case you should chop and mix up together an Eschalot, some Parsley, a few Capers, and the Yolk of a hard Egg, and strew them lightly over the surface of the Beef. The Fat End of the Sirloin and Bones should be put to. simmer in the liquor in which the Fillet was first stewed, and done till the Beef looks loose; it should then be put away into a deep vessel, and the Soup strained over it, which cooling with the Fat upon the top (thereby exclud- ing the air), will keep as long as may be required ;—when the Soup is to be used, the fat must be cleared from it,— a Carrot, Parsnep, a head of Celery, a Leek, and three Turnips, cleaned and scalded, should be added to it, and the whole suffered to simmer gently till the vegetables are quite done, when they must be strained from the liquor, and the Soup served up with large aimee thick pieces of toasted bread. Those who like a Plain Bouillt warm the Beef in the Soup, and serve it up with the Turnips and Carrots which had been strained before from the Soup. A White Cab- bage quartered is no bad addition to the Garnish of the Bouilli, or to the flavour of the Soup. If it is a Dressed Bouilli, sliced Carrots and Button Onions should be stewed in thickened Stock, and poured over the Meat. A Neck of Mutton boned, sprinkled with dried Sage, powdered fine, or (No. 378) seasoned, rolled, and roasted, is very good. The Bones and Scrag make excellent Gravy stewed ‘down, and if done very gently, the Meat is not bad eating. The same herbs should be put to it as to other Stocks, with the addition of a Carrot; this will make very good Mutton Broth. In short, ehinxeuee there are Bones or Trimmings to be got out of any Meat that is dressed in MADE DISHES, &c. 369 my Kitchen, they are made to contribute towards Soup or Gravy,.or No. 252. : Instead of roasting a Hare (which at best is but dry food), stew it, if Young, Plain, —if an Old one, Lard it. The Shoulders and Legs should be taken off, and the _ Back cut into three pieces; these, with a Bay-leaf, half a dozen Eschalots, one Onion pierced with four Cloves, should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four hours, in a deep dish. In the mean time, the Head, Neck, Ribs, Liver, Heart, &c. &c. should ‘be browned in frothed Butter well seasoned — add half a pound of lean Bacon, cut into small pieces, a large bunch of Herbs, a Carrot, and a few Allspice,—simmer these in @ quart of water tillit be reduced to about half the quantity, when it should be strained, and those parts of the Hare which have been infused in the vinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those who like Onions may brown half a dozen, stew them in a part of the Gravy, and dish them round the Hare. When it comes from the table, supposing some to be ’ left, the Meat should be taken from the Bones, and with a _ few Forcemeat Balls, the remains of the Gravy, about.a quarter of a pint of Red Wine, and a proportionable quan- tity of water, it will make a very pretty soup; — to those who have no objection to Catchup (No. 439), a spoonful in the original Gravy is an improvement, as indeed it is in every made Dish, where the Mushroom itself is not at command. Every Ragoit, in my opinion, should be dressed the day before it is wanted, that any Faé which has escaped _ the skimming spoon, may with ease be taken off when cold. Caur’s Heap. —Take the half of one, with the skin on,—put it into a large stew-pan, with as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of Ham, and the usual accompani- ments of Onions, Herbs, &c. &c., and let it simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon,— do so, and while still hot, cut it into as large a sized-square as the piece will admit of;-—the trimmings and half the R 2 370 MADE DISHES, &c. liquor put by ina tureen ; to the remaining half add a gill of White Wine, and reduce the whole of that by quack boiling till it is again half consumed, when it should be * Xe ae poured over the large square piece in an Earthen Vessel, | surrounded with Mushrooms, white Button Onions, small pieces of Pickled Pork, half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length, and the tongue in slices, and sim- mered till the whole is fit to serve up; some browned Forcemeat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from the Table, the remains should be cut into small pieces, and mixed up with the trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine), properly thickened, will make a very good Mock Turtle Soup for a future occasion, To Hash Mutton, &c. —(No. 484). Cut the Meat into slices, about the thickness of two shillings, trim off all the sinews, skin, and gristle, &c.— put in nothing but what is to be eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; prepare your Sauce to warm it in, a8 RECEIPT (No. 360, or No. 451, or No. 486), put in the Meat, and Jet it simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm : — do not let it’ Boil, as that will make the Meat tough and hard,* and it will be, as Joan CromweE ttf has it, a Harsh. Obs.— Select for your Hash those parts of the joint that are least done. ig Mrm.—Hashing is a mode of Cookery by no means * Hasues and Meats dressed a second time, should only simmer © genily till just warm through: it is supposed they have been done very nearly, if not quite enough, already: select those parts of the joint that have been least done. In making a Hash from a Leg of Mutton, do not destroy the Mar- row-bore to help the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no perceptible addition ; but saw it in two, twist writing-paper round the ends, and send it up on a plate as a side dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley : —if if is a Roast leg, preserve the END BONE, and send it up between the marrow-bones. This is a very pretty Lune cheon, or Supper dish. + See “‘ the Court and Kitchen of EL1zaBETH, commonly called Joan Cromwell”? 16mo. London, 1664, page 106. MADE DISHES, &c. 37 suited to delicate stomachs: unless the’ Meat, &c. be considerably under-done the first time, a second dressing must spoil it, for what is done enough the First time, must be done too much the Second. f To warm Hasues,* — Mave Disnes,— Stews, — _ Racouts, — Sours, &c. —(No. 485). . Put what you have left into a deep hash-dish, or tureen ; » when you want it, set this in a stew-pan of boiling water : det it stand till the contents are quite warm. | To Hash Buzr, &c.— (No. 486). Put a pint and a half of Broth, or Water, with an ounce of No. 252, or a large table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, into a stew-pan with the Gravy you have saved that was left from the Beef, and put in a quarter ounce of onion sliced very fine, and boil it about ten minutes; put a large table-+ spoonful of Flour into a basin, just wet it with a little | water, mix it well together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it a boil for five or ten minutes, rub it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the Beef, &c.; let it stand by the side of the fire till the Meat is warm, N.B. A tea-spoonful of Parsley chopped as fine as pos- sible, and put in five minutes before it is served up, isa * The.“ Bain- Marie,” or WaTER-Batu (see note to No. 529), | . is the best utensil to warm up made dishes, and things that have been already sufficiently dressed, as it neither consumes the sauce, nor hardens the meat: —if you have not a Water-Bath, a Dutch Oven will sometimes supply the place of it. “ Bain-Marie is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil: the effect of this Bain-Marie is to keep every thing warm without altering either the quantity or the quality, _ particularly the quality. When I had the honour of serving a noble- -man, who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using Bain-Marie, as a certain means of preserving the flavour of all m dishes. If you keep your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. This is the best way of warming Turtle, or Mock Turtle Soup, —as the thick part is always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, and. keeps it always good.” —Upkr’s Cookery, page 18. 372 - ‘MADE DISHES, &c. great. addition ;—others like half a wine-glass of Port wine, and a dessert-spoonful of Currant Jelly. See also No. 360, which will shew you every variety of manner of making and flavouring the most highly finished Hash Sauce, and Nos. 484, 485, and 506. Cold Meat Broiled, with Poached Eggs — (No. 487). The inside of a Sirloin of Beef is best for this dish, or a Leg of Mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thick- ness, and broil and brown them carefully and slightly over” a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven; give those slices most fire that are least done; —Jay them in a dish before the fire to keep hot, while you poach the Eggs, as directed in No. 546, and mashed Potatoes (No. 106). Obs.—This makes a savoury Luncheon or Supper,— but is more relishing than nourishing, unless the Meat was under-done the first time it was dressed. No. 307 for Sauce, to which some add a few drops of Eschalot wine or vinegar. See No, 402, or No. 439, or No. 359, warmed, — or Grill Sauce (No. 355). Mrs. Puiiyips’s Irish Stew — (No. 488). Take five thick Mutton Chops, or two pounds off the neck or loin; two pounds of Potatoes,—peel them, and cut them in halves; six Onions, or half a pound of onions,— . peel and slice them also: first put a layer of Potatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan, then a couple of Chops and some of the Onions; then again potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quate full; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a half of salt, and three gills of broth or gravy, and two tea- -spoonsful of Mushroom Catchup, cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let them stew for an hour and a half on a very slow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to » this dish. The Cook. will be the best judge when it is. — done, as a great deal depends on the fire you have. N.B. Great care must be taken not to let it burn, and: that it does not do too fast. > MADE DISHES, &c. ‘373: To make an Irish Stew, or HuntTER’s Pie. Take part.of.a Neck of Mutton, cut it into chops, season it well, put it into a stew-pan, let it brase for half an hour,. take two dozen of potatoes, boil them, mash them, and ‘season them, butter your mould, and line it with. the potatoes, put in the Mutton, bake it for half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole in the top, and add some good gravy to it. - _ N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison, of the Leinster Hotel, Dublin. A good Scotch Haggis— (No. 488%). Make the haggis-hbag perfectly clean; parboil the draught ; boil the liver very well, so as it will grate; dry the meal before the fire; mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half of the liver; mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; “mix all these materials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal; spread them on the table, and “season them properly with salt and mixed spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin (é. e. a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into the bag, and that broth in it; then. sew up the bag; but be sure to put out all the wind before “you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you: May putitinacloth. If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling. N.B. The above we copied verbatim from Mrs. Maciver,. a celebrated Caledonian Professor of the Culinary Art, who taught, and published a Book of Cookery, at Edinburgh, A.D. 1787. | Mincep Co.Luops. “This is a favourite Scotch dish,—few families are with- out it,—it keeps well, and is always ready to make an extra dish. “‘ Take Beef, and chop and mince it very small; to which add some salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, into- 374 MADE DISHES, &c. ‘small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butter into a frying-pan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Adda little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up.”— The Hon. JoHn CocHRANE’s Seaman’s Guide, 8vo. 1797, page 42. Haricot* Mutton — (No. 489). Cut the best end of a Neck or Loin of Mutton, that has been kept till tender, into Chops of equal thickness, one rib to each (‘les bons hommes de bouche de Paris” cut two chops to one bone, but it is more convenient to help when there is only one,—two at,a time is too large a dose for John Bull), trim off some of the fat, and the lower. end of the chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stew-pan, with an ounce of Butter; set it over a smart Jire ; if your fire is not sharp, the Chops will be done be- fore they are coloured: the intention of frying them is merely to give them a very light browning. While the Chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of young button Onions in about three pints of water for about fifteen or twenty minutes, set them by,— and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stew- pan with the Chops: ifthat is not sufficient to cover them, add as much boiling water as will; remove the scum as it rises, and be careful they are not stewed too fast or too much ;—so take out one of them with a fish-slice, and try it: wien they are tender, which will be in about an hour and a half, then pass the gravy through a sieve into a basin, set it in the open air that it may get cold, you may then easily and completely skim off the fat,—in the mean time set the meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling water over the button Onions to warm them. Have about six ounces of Carrots, and eight ounces of Turnips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into Balls about as big as a Nutmeg, boil the Carrots about half an hour—the Turnips about a quarter of an hour, and put = * Probably a contraction ef “* Haut Ragott.” . bE | | MADE DISHES, &c. 375 ‘them on a sieve to drain, and then put them round the Dish, the last thing. | - Taicken THE Gravy by putting an ounce of Butter into a, stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much Flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a fine sieve or tamis into a stew-pan, put in the Carrots and Turnips to get warm, and let it simmer gently while you dish up. the Meat ; lay the chops round a dish, put the Vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickened gravy over. Some ‘put in Capers, &c., minced Gherkins, &c. | Oe Ree steaks, Wane Wed Hits! and ‘Brrr- “TAILS, make excellent dishes dressed in the like manner. “Mutton-Chops delicately Stewed, and good Mutton Broth (No. 490). Put the Chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them, and an Onion,—when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and ‘set it over a very slow fire till the Chops are tender ;—if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an hour's very gentle simmering. Send up Turnips with them (No. 130); they may be boiled with the chops, skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish, with the Broth ‘they were ‘stewed in. _N.B. The Broth will make an Economist one, and the Meat another, wholesome and comfortable meal. Shoulder of Lamb Grilled —(No. 491). — Boil it,—score it in checkers,about an inch square, rub “it over with the yolk of an egg, pepper and salt it, ‘strew it with bread-crambs and dried parsley, or sweet herbs, or No. 457, or No. 459, and Carbonado, z. e. Grill, 2. e. Broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a nice. light brown; send up some gravy with it, or make‘a sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut eatchup, and the juice of half a lemon. See also Grill Sauce (No. 355). 376 MADE DISHES, &c. N.B. Breasts of Lamb are often. done in the same way, and with Mushroom or Mutton Sauce (No. 307). Lamb’s Fry — (No. 492). Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew some fine stale bread-crumbs over it; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389). For sauce, No. 355, or No. 356. Suin oF Beer* Stewep—(No. 493). Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put it into a stew-pan, and just cover it with cold water,—when it simmers, skim it clean,—then put in a bundle of Sweet Herbs, a large Onion, a head of Celery, a dozen berries of Black Pepper, and the-same of Allspice : stew very gently over a slow fire till the Meat is tender,— this will take from about three hours and a half, to four and a half. | . Take three Carrots, peel and cut them into small squares; peel and cut ready in small squares a couple of Turnips, with a couple of dozen of small young round silver Button Onions; boil them till tender,—the Turnips and Onions will be enough in about fifteen ‘minutes,—the Carrots will Tequire about twice as long,—drain them dry. When the Beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half of the Gravy: to do this, mix three table-spoons- ful of flour with a tea-cupful of the beef liquor; to make Sour of the rest of it, see No. 238; stir this thoroughly together till it boils, skim off the Fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your vegetables in to warm ;—Season with pepper, salt, and a wine-glass of Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), or Port wine, or both, and pour it over the Beef. . Send up Wow-Wow Sauce (No. 328) in a boat. N.B. Or, instead of sending up the Beef whole, cut the meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it \ oe * The proverb says, ‘‘ Of ail the Fowls of the Air, commend me to the Su1n or Brer,—for there’s Marrow for the Master, Meat for the Mistress, Gristles for the Servants, and Bones for the Dogs.’” MADE DISHES, &c. 377. in the middle of the dish, with the Vegetables and Sauce (which, if you flavour with No. 455, you may call ‘“‘ Beer Curry”) round it. A Lee or "Mutton is excellent dressed the same way,—equal to “ Ze Gigot de pe heures,” so famous in the French kitchen. Obs.—This Stew has every claim to the attention of the Rationul Epicure, being one of those in which “ Fru- Gauity,” “ NourisumMentT,” and “ PALATABLENESS,” ‘are most happily combined,—and you get half a Gallon of excellent Broru into the bargain. We advise the Mistress of the table to call it “ Racour ‘Beer,”—this will ensure its being eaten with unanimous applause ; ; the homely appellation of Shzn of Beef stewed, is enough to give your genteel eater a locked jaw. ** Remember, when the Judgment’s weak, the Prejudice is strong.” Our modern Epicures resemble the ancient,* who thought the dearest dish must be the most delicious : “ And think all Wisdom lies In being impertinently nice.” Thus, they reckon Turtle and Punch to be “ sheventy-fotve per shent” more inviting than Mock Turtle and Good Malt Liquor,—however bad the former may be, and however good the latter ;—-we wish these folks could be made to understand, that the Soup for each, and all the accom- ane are precisely the same ;—there i is this only dif- erence, the former is commonly made with a “STARVED TURTLE ” (see Notes at the foot of page 266), the latter * The remotest parts of the world were visited, and Earth, Air, and Ocean, ransacked, to furnish the complicated delicacies ofa Roman Supper. *¢ Suidas tells us, that Pityllus, who had a Hot tongue and a Cold stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former, made a "sheath for his Tongue, so that he could swallow his pottage scalding hot ; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire Gentleman of the like quality !! !°?__See Dr. MorratT on Food, Ato. 1655. ‘* In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the Culinary arts are pushed to excess, luxury becomes false to itself, ‘and things are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeable to the ee petite, but in proportion as they are rare, out of season, or costly.”’m= Canocan on Gout, 8vo. 177], p. 48.. 378 MADE DISHES, &c. with a“ FATTED CALF.” See Nos. 247, 343, and 343%. | : | The scarcity of tolerably good cooxs ceases to be sur- prising, when we reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who assume the character of Scientific GourMaNpDs,* so extremely ignorant of ‘ the affairs of the Mouth,’ ’— they seem hardly to “ know @ Sheep's head from a Carrot,” and their real pretensions to be profound Palaticians, are as moderate as the wine- merchant’s customer, whose sagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite, that he knew that Port wine was black, and that if hé drank enough of it, it would make him drunk. Brisket of Beef Stewed — (No, 494). This is prepared in exactly the same way as ‘‘ Soup and Bouilli.” See Nos. 5, 238, or 493. Haricot of Beef — (No. 495). A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same Sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for haricot of mutton (No. 489), is a most excellent dish, of very mode- rate expense. Savoury Salt Beef BukndaiNo: 496). The Tongue Side of a round of Beef is the best bit for this purpose: ifit weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three days; then take Tnwke ounces of Saltpetre, one ounce of coarse Sugar, a quarter of an ounce of Black Pepper, and the same of Allspice (some add a quarter of an ounce of Ginger, or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury Herbs (No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common Salt; incorporate these ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take the bone out, and = : _ rub the Meat well with the above mixture, turning it and rubbing it every day for a fortnight. a Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals; and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent appli- cation, no small sluibe of intellect, and the strictest sobriety and punctuality.’’ — Preface to UDE’s Cookery, p. 6. 4 MADE DISHES, &c. 379 _ When you dress it, put it ito a pan with a quart of water; cover the meat with about three pounds of mutton suet* shredded rather thick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flour crust to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a moderate-heated oven for about six hours (or, just cover it with water, and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send it to table, cover the top of it with finely chopped Parsley). If the Beef weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients. | _ The Gravy you will find a strong Consommé, excellent for Sauce or Soup,—or making Soy, or Browning, see No. 322, and being impregnated with Salt, will keep several days. This Joint should not be cut till ct is Cold, —and then, with a sharp knife, to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely to the eye. Obs. — This is a most excellent way of preparing and dressing Beef (No. 503),—and a savoury dish for Sand- wiches, &c. — In moderate weather it will keep good for a fortnight after it is dressed: it is one of the most economi- cal and elegant articles of ready-dressed keeping provi- sions; deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently have Accidental Customers dropping in at Luncheon or Supper —to whom we recommend Morri~ son’s Provisons, No. 3, Charlotte Row, Mansion House. Currirs—(No. 497 ; see also No. 249). Cut Fowls or Rabbits into joints, and wash them clean; — put two ounces of Butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put in the meat, and two middling-sized Onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire till they are of a light brown, then put in half a pint of Broth ; let it sim- mer twenty minutes. * This Suetsis not to be wasted,—when it comes from the oven, take out the Beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve, —let it stand till it is cold,—then clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, and it will do for Frying, &c. 380 MADE DISHES, &c. Put in a basin one or two table-spoonsful of Curry Powder (No. 455), a tea-spoonful of Flour, and a tea- spoonful of Salt; mix it smooth with a little cold water, put it into the stew-pan, and shake it well about till it boils ; let it simmer twenty minutes longer; then take out the Meat—and rub the Sauce through a tamis or sieve — add to it two table-spoonsful of cream or milk, give it a boil up —then pour it into a dish, lay the meat over it — send up the Rice in a separate dish. « Obs.— Curry is made also with Sweetbreads — Breast of Veal—Veal Cutlets—Lamb—Mutton or Pork Chops— Lobster —Turbot —Soles—Eels— Oysters, &c.—prepared . as above, or enveloped in No. 348. Obs. — This is a very savoury and economical dish, and a valuable variety at a moderate table. See Wow-Wow Sauce (No. 328), Stewed Rump-Steaks—(No. 500). The Steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling, — let them be all the same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others too much. Put an ounce of Butter into a stew-pan, with two Onions; when the Butter is melted, lay in the Rump-Steaks, let. them stand over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn them, and let the other side of them fry five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of Button Onions; they will take from half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in to the Steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, ~ add broth or boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns of Black Pepper and a little Salt, and let them simmer very gently for about an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor (about a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce. — Put two ounces of Butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much Flour as will make it into a stiff paste ; some add thereto a table-spoonful of Claret, or Port wine, the same of Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), halfa tea-spoonful of Salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground Black Pepper: add the liquor by degrees, let it MADE DISHES, &c.. 381. boil up for fifteen minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the Steaks with the Onions round the dish, and pour the ay over. Vea-Cur.ets or Mvrrox-Cuops may be done the same way, or as Veal Olives (No. 518). - This is generally a second-course dish, and is usually Biade too rich,— and only fit to re-excite an Appetite already satiated. Our endeavour is to combine agreeable Savouriness with substantial nourishment; those who wish to enrich our Receipt, may easily add Mushrooms, — Wine, — Anchovy, — Cayenne, — Bay-leaves, &c. Obs. — Rump-Steaks are in best condition from Michaelmas to Lady-day. To ensure their being tender, give the Butcher three or four days’ notice of your wish for them. Broiled Rump-Steak with Onion Gravy—(No. 50 1). See also No. 299. Peel and slice two large Onions, put them into a quart stew-pan, with two table-spoonsful of water; cover the stew-pan close, and set, it on a slow fire till the water has boiled away, and the Onions have got a little browned, — _ then add half a pint of good Broth,* and boil the Onions. till they are tender; strain the Broth from them, and chop them very fine, and season it with Mushroom Catchup, pepper, and salt; put the Onion into it, and let it boil | gently for five minutes, pour it into the Dish, and lay over it a Broiled Rump-Steak. If instead of Broth you use = god Beef Gravy, it will be superlative. : * Stewed Cucumber (No. 135), is another agreeable IF accompaniment to Rump-Steaks. ALAMODE BEEF, or VEAL—(No. 502). _ In the 180 volumes on Cookery, we patiently pioneered through, before we encountered the tremendous labour and expense of proving the Receipts of our predecessors,— ae _. * Ifyou have no Broth,—put in half a pint of water, thicken it as - in the above receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, add __ to it alarge spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, and if you like, the same » quantity of Port Wine. 382 MADE DISHES, &c. and, set about recording these results of our own Experi- ments,— we could not find one Receipt that approximated to. any thing like an accurate description of the way in which this excellent dish is actually dressed in the best Alamode Beef Shops ; — from whence, of course, it was impossible to obtain any information : — however, after all, the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening the gravy of Beef that has been very slowly* stewed, and flavouring it with Bay-leaves and Allspice. Take about eleven pounds of the Mouse Buttock, — or Clod of Beef, —or a Blade-Bone, —or the Sticking-piece, or.the like weight of the Breast of Veal; cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each; put three or four ounces of Beef drippings, and mince a couple of large Onions, and put them into a large deep stew-pan ; as soon as it is quite. hot, flour the Meat, put it into the stew-pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; when it has been. on about ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keep doing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it; then — cover it with boiling water (it will take about a gallon), adding it by degrees, and stirring it together; skim it when it boils, and then put in one drachm of ground Black Pepper, two of Allspice, and two Bay-leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance over it, and let it stew very slowly for about three hours ; when you find the meat sufliciently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready for table. It is customary to send up with it a nice Salad; see No. 372. ** To the above many Cooks add CuampicNnons; but as these are almost always decayed, and often of deleterious — quality, they are better left out, —and indeed the Bay- LEAVES deserve the same prohehition. Obs.—Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as * ¢¢ Tt must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inacces- sible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of | charcoal in the furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation.” — TasELLA CIBARIA,, p. 47. MADE DISHES, &. 383 ay as the Ecc-Broru of the Miser,—who fed his Valet vith the water in which his Egg was boiled, —or as the ‘ Potage a la Pierre, a la Soldat,”* mentioned by Giles Rose, in the 4th page of his. dedication of the “ PERFECT. iCHOOL OF INSTRUCTION FOR THE OFFICERS OF THE 4outH,’ 18mo. London, 1682. ‘ Two Soldiers were ainded to have a Soup; the first of them coming into a touse, and asking for all things necessary for the making if one, was as soon told that he could have none of those hings there, whereupon he went away ;—the other, coming a with a Stone in his knapsack, asked only for a pot to yoil his stone in, that he might make a dish of broth of t for his Supper, which was quickly granted him; when he Stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small niece of Meat or Bacon, and a few Herbs and Roots, &c. ust merely to give it a bit of a flavour; till, by little and ittle, he got all things requisite, and so made an excellent *ottage of his Stone.’—See Obs. to No. 493. Fas (ie Onions, Pepper, Allspice, and Bay-leaves ......... 0 3 RITE ROG cl. Lp wncsvesyenncavsce'ersn+sonn ces 3 8 Made Eight Quarts ...........5.05. 3 11 ie. Sixpence per QuART. -To Por Berr,—VeraL,—GameE, or Pouttry, &c. (No. 503). Take three pounds of lean Gravy Beef, rub it well with n ounce of Saltpetre, and then a handful of common Salt; st it lie in Salt for a couple of days, rubbing it well each ay; then put it into an earthen pan, or stone jar that will * “¢ C’est la Soupe,’ says one of the best of proverbs, ‘ qui fait le loldat ;’ ‘It is the Soup that makes the Soldier.’ Excellent as our roops are in the field, there cannot be a more unquestionable fact, han their immense inferiority, to the French in the business of okery- ‘The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once n the coals, by which means the one and the better half is lost,—. nd the other burnt toa cinder. Whereas six French troopers fling heir messes into the same pot, and extract a delicious Soup, ten imes more nutritious than the simple Roti could ever be. *__ BLACK roon’s Edinburgh Magazine, vol. vii. p. 668. 384 MADE DISHES, &c. just hold it; cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off, and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close with paste, and set it in a very slow oven for about four hours; or prepare it as directed in No. 496. - , | When it comes from the Oven, drain the gravy from it into a basin; pick out the gristles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it with a little of the Gravy you poured from the Meat, which is a very strong Consommé (but rather salt), and it will make excellent Pease Soup, or ' Browning (see No. 322); pound the Meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with some fresh Butter,* till it is a fine paste (to make Potted Meat smooth there is nothing equal to plenty of Elbow-grease)—seasoning it (by degrees as you are beating it) with a little Black Pepper and All- spice,—or Cloves pounded, or Mace, or grated Nutmeg. Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover it a quarter of an inch thick with Clarified Butter; to prepare which, sce receipt No. 259, and if you wish to preserve it a long time, over that tie a Bladder. Keep it in a dry place. : Obs. — You may mince a little Ham or Bacon,—or an Anchovy, — Sweet. or Savoury Herbs, —or an Eschalot, and a little Tarragon, Chervil, or Burnet, &c., and pound them with the Meat, with a glass of Wine, or some Mus- tard, or Forcemeat (No. 376, or Nos. 378 and 399*, &c.); if you wish to have it Devilish savoury, add Ragodt Powder (No. 457), Curry Powder (No. 455), or Zest (No. 255), and moisten it with Mushroom Catchup (No. 439), or Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), or Tincture of Allspice (No. 413), or Essence of Turtle (No. 343*). — Or—(No. 503*). It is a very agreeable and economical way of using the remains of Game or Poultry, or a large joint of either roasted or boiled Beef, Veal, Ham, or Tongue, &c. to mince it with some of the Fat, (or moisten it with a little .* The less Gravy or Butter, and the more beating, the better will be your Potted Beef, if you wish it to keep; — if for immediate eating, you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat will pound easier, and look and taste more mellow. MADE DISHES, Kc. : 385 Butter, or No. 439, &c.) and beat it in a mortar with the seasoning, &c., as in the former Receipt. ~ When either the Teeth or Stomach are extremely feeble, especial care must be taken to keep Meat till ct is tender before it is cooked—or call in the aid of those excellent helps to bad teeth, the Pestle and Mortar. And see Nos. 10, 18, 87, 89, 175,.178; from 185 to 250, 502, 542—and especially 503. Or dress in the usual way whatever is best liked,—mince it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little Broth or melted Butter, — Vege- table, — Herb, — Spice, — Zest (No. 255), &c. according to the taste, &c. of the Eater. The business of the Sto- mach is thus very materially facilitated. “Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp, may be very advantageously used in fevers attended with debility.” — Darwrn’s Zoonomia, vol. ii. p. 400. : _ Mincing or Pounding Meat saveth the grinding of the Teeth ; and therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, espe- cially i in Age,—or to them that have weak teeth; but butter is not proper for weak bodies, — and therefore Moisten it in pounding with a little Claret wine, and a very little Cinnamon or Nutmeg.”—Lord Bacon; Natural History, Century I. 54. _ Obs.—Meat that has been boiled down for Gravies, &c, see Nos. 185* and 252, (which has heretofore been»: sonsidered the perquisite of the Cat) and is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a mortar with Salt and a little ground Black Pepper and Allspice, as directed n the foregoing Receipt, and it will make as good Potted Beef as Meat that has been baked till its moisture is en- sirely extracted, which it must be, or it will not keep two lays. _ Mem. — Meat that has not been previously salted, will 1ot keep so long as that which has. | SanpwicuEes—(No. 504), Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient Lun- theon or Supper,—but have got “out of Fashion—from the vad manner in which they are commonly made: to cut the 3read neatly with a sharp knife seems to be considered S . 386 _ MADE DISHES, &e, ; the only essential, and the lining is composed of any offal odds and ends — that cannot be sent to table in any other form. Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from ev bit of Skin, Gristle, &c.— and nothing introduced but what you are absolutely certain will be acceptable to the Mouth. . MaTERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES, Cold Meat, or Poultry. Cold Pork ditto (No. 87). Potted ditto (No. 503). Hard Eggs, pounded with a little Savoury ditto (No. 496). Butter and Cheese. Potted’ Lobster (No. 178), or | Grated Ham, or Beef. Shrimp (No. 175). Various Forcemeats, &c. (No. Potted Cheese (No. 542). 373), &c. Potted, or Grated Ham(No.509). | Curry- Powder, Zest, Mustard, Ditto, or grated Tongue. Pepper, and Salt, are added oc- Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435). casionally. German Sausage. Meat Cakes—(No. 504*). If you have any cold Meat, Game, or Poultry (if under- done, all the better), mince it fine, with a little fat bacon or ham, cr an anchovy; season it with a little pepper and salt; mix well, and make it into small cakes three inches long, half as wide, and half an inch thick: fry. these a light brown, and serve them with good gravy, or put it into a mould and boil or bake it. ' N.B. Bread-crumbs, hard yolks of Eggs, Onions, Sweet, Herbs, Savoury Spices, Zest, or Curry-Powder, or any of the Forcemeats. See Nos. 373 to 382. : _ Fisu Cakes for Maigre Days, may be made in like. manner. til MADE DISHES, &e. 387 Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef or M utton and — _ Cabbage—(No. 505), <° When ’midst the frying Pan, in accents savage, _. +. The Beef, so surly, quarrels with the Cabbage.” \) _D b. Minor. ta i ans ae PRE SE A CONE Pole te \eae SSS | J BE EF» | ~? f ° 2 a Se rie Ee: << | ae CABBAGE, BEE | val or Gh, Mayo rg ~ Poe. we ae ea ia. ; an PEE fi Wt esi hp | pei oi deo Pe ’ | Gp rape | _ For this, as for a Hash, select those parts of the joint that iave been least done ; —it is generally made with slices of sold boiled salted Beef, sprinkled with a little Pepper, and ust lightly browned with a bit of Butter in a frying-pan : ft is fried too much zt will be hard. | Boil a Cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; ake the Beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the Cabbage nit; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it; keep the yan moving over the fire for a few minutes; lay the Cab- Jage in the middle of a dish, and the Meat round it. For Sauce, see No. 356, or No. 328. dashed Beef, and Roast Beef Bones Boiled — (No. 506). _ To hash Beef, see Receipt, Nos. 484, 5, 6, and Nos. 160, 484, and 486. | The best part to hash is the Fillet or Inside of the Sir- om, and the good housewife will always endeavour to pre- erye it entire for this purpose. See Obs. to No, 19, and “lock Hare, No. 67*, 388 - MADE DISHES, Ke. Roast Beef Bones furnish a very relishing Luncheon or Supper, prepared in the following manner, with Poached Eggs (No. 546), or Fried Eggs (No. 545), or Masha Potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments. ° Divide the Bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each ; — score them in squares, pour a little melted butter — on them, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt: put_ them in a dish; set them in a Dutcu Oven for half or three quarters of an hour, according to the thickness of the meat; keep turning them till they are quite hot and- brown ;— or broil them on the gridiron. Brown them, but don’t burn them black. For Sauce, Nos. 355, or 356. | Ox-Cheek Stewed — (No. 507). 4 Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten ; clean it, and put it into soft water just warm; let it lie three or four hours, then put it into cold water, and let it soak” all night; —next day wipe it clean, put it into a stew- | pan, and just cover it with water ; -— ‘skim it well when it is coming to a boil, then put two whole Onions, stick two’ or three Cloves into each, three Turnips quartered, a couple of Carrots sliced, two Bay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of Allspice, a head of Celery, and a bundle of Sweet Herbs, pepper, and salt; to these, those who are for a “ haut gout” may add Cayenne and Garlic, in such pro= portions as the palate that requires them may desire. Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, 2. e. about three hours; then take out the Cheek, divide it into handsome) pieces, fit to help at table ; skine and strain the gravy. | melt an ounce and a half of butter in a stew- -pan ; stim into it as much flour as it will take up; mix with. it by degrees a pint and a half of the gravy; add to it a table- spoontul of Basil, Tarragon, or Elder vinegar, or the like quantity of Mushroom or Walnut Catchup, or Cavice, or Port wine, and give it a boil. ‘# Serve up in a soup or ragotit-dish; or make it int Barley Broth, No. 204. Obs. —This is a very economical, nourishing, and sa- voury meal. See Ox-Curxzx Sour, No. 239, and o | Head Hashed, No. 520. MADE DISHES, &c. 389 Ox-Tails Stewed —(No. 508). Divide them into joints; wash them ; ‘parboil them; set hem on to stew in just water enough to cover them —and lress them in the same manner as we have directed in No. 531, Stewed Giblets, for which they are an excellent ubstitute, N.B. See Ox-Tail Soup, No. 240. Potted Ham, or Tongue — (No. 509). Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled Ham or Tongue, ind pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of the at, or with fresh butter (in the proportion of about two yunces to a pound), till it is a fine paste (some season it »y degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice) ; put it ‘lose down in pots for that purpose, and cover it with Slarified Butter, No. 259, a quarter of an inch thick; let t stand one night in a cool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. See Obs. on No. 503. Hashed Veal—(No. 511). Prepare it as directed in No. 484; and to make sauce (o: warm: Veal, see No. 361. Hashed or Minced Veal — (No. 511*). To make a Hasu™* cut the Meat into slices ; — to pre- pare Mrincep Veal, mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-pan with a few spoonsful of Veal or Mutton Broth, or make some with the Bones and Trimmings, as ordered for Veal Cutlets (see No. 90, or No. 361), a little Lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful | of milk or cream; thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonful of Lemon pickle, or Basil wine, No. 397, &c., or a pinch of Curry powder. # = If you have no Cream, beat up the yolks of a couple of Eggs with a little milk: line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread. * See Receipt to Hash Mutton, Nos. 360 and 361, and No. 484. 390 MADE DISHES, &c. +e Obs.—Minced Veal makes a very pretty dish, put into scollop shells, and bread-crumbed over, and sprinkled with alittle butter, and browned in a Dutch Oven, or a cheese- toaster. t a To make an excellent Ragotst of Cold Veal—(No. 512), Either a Neck,—-Loin,—or Fillet of Veal, will furnish this excellent Ragott with a very little expense or trouble. Cut the Veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter or clean dripping into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown: take it oul, and if you have no gravy ready, make some as directed in the note to No. 517; or put a pint of boiling water into the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a minute, and straii it into a basin while you make some thickening in the fol ° lowing manner :— Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flout as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying: pan; let them simmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporated) ; season it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom catchup or wine; strain it through a tamis to. the meat, and stew very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed, If you have any ready-boiled Bacon, cut it in slices, and put in to warm with the meat, or No. 526 or 527. Veal Cutlets, see No. 90, &e. Breast of Veal Stewed — (No. 516), A breast of Veal stewed till quite tender, and smothered with Onion sauce, is an excellent dish ; or in ‘the 7 ordered i in the Note to No. 517. Breast of Veal Ragoté —(No. 517). a Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half, lengthways; divide it into pieces, about four inches long, by two inches wide, z. e. in handsome pieces, not too large to help at once :— put about two ounces of Butter mto 2 MADE DISHES, &c. - 808 ying-pin, and fry the Veal till it is a light brown,* then put it into a stew-pan with veal broth,—or as much boil- img water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or lemon-thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades of pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll of lemon-peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a tea-spoonful of salt; cover it close, and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender, 7. e. for about an hour and a half,—if it is very thick, two hours; then strain ofl as much (about a quart) of the gravy, as you think -you will want, into a basin; set the ‘stew-pan, with the meat, &c. in it by the fire to keep hot. To thicken the Gravy you have taken out, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is ‘melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; add the gravy by degrees; season: it with salt; let it boil ten minutes; ‘skim it well, and season it with two table-spoonsful of white wine, one of mushroom catchup, and same of lemon- : juice ; give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the veal into a ragott dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. Or, By hii the Meat whole, you will better preserve the Bicculerice of it. Put the Veal into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter and two whole onions (such as weigh about two ounces each); put it on the fire, and fry it about five minutes ; then cover it with boiling water; when it et skim it; * Some Cooks make the Gravy, &e. in the following manner : Slice a large Onion ; fry it brown; drain all fat from it, and put Ag into a stew-pan with a bunch of Sweet Herbs, a couple of dozen berries of Allspice, same of Black Pepper, three blades of Mace, and a pint and a half of water; cover down close, and boil gently for half an hour ; then strain it through a sieve over the Veal, and let it simmer gently for about three hours: about half an hour before it is done, mix’ two table-spoonsful of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water ; mix some of the gravy with it, and then put it into the stew-pan. N.B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added. when the Veal is put in. 392 MADE DISHES, &c. then put in two small blades of mace, a dozen blades of allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the gravy as you think you will want-into a basin; put the stew-pan by the fire to keep hot. To thicken it, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan: when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; add. the gravy by degrees; season it with salt, and wed it boils it is ready. Put the Veal on a dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve over it. Obs. — Forcemeat Balls, see No. 375, &c.; Truffles, Morells, Mushrooms, and Curry powder, &c. are some= times added ; and Rashers of Bacon or Ham, Nos. 526° and 527, or Fried Pork Sausages, No. 83. N.B. These aré nice dishes in the Pease season. Scotch Collops—(No. 517%). The Veal must be cut the same as for Cutlets, in pieces about as big as a crown-piece; flour them well, and fry: them of a lisht brown in fresh butter; lay them in a stew- pan; dredge them over with flour, ‘and. then put in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal; pour this in, by degrees, shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire: when it comes to a doil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour; lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. N.B. Lemon-Juice and Peel,—Wine,—Catchup, &c., are sometimes added; add Curry Pownper, No. 455, and you have Curry Conzors. Veal Olives — (No. 518). Cut half a dozen slices off a Fillet of Veal, half an inch thick, and as long and square as you can; flat them with a chopper, and rub them over with an ege that has been beat on a plate; cut some fat bacon as thin. as possible, the same size as the veal; lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt, No. 375, and spread it very thin over the bacon; i MADE DISHES, &c. 393 roll up the olives tight, rub them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs ; put them on a lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk fire: they willtake three quar- ters of an hour: Rumr-Sreaks are sometimes dressed this way. Mushroom Sauce, brown :(Nos. 305 or 306), or Beef Gravy (No. 329).. Vide Chapter on Sauces, &c. Cold Calf’s Head Hashed—(No. 519). See Obs. to boiled Calf’s head, No. 10. Calf’s Head Hashed, or Ragott —(No. Sate See No. 247. Wash a Calf’s head, which, to make this dish in the ‘best style, should have the Skzn on, and boil it, see No. 10; boil one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done when put into the hash to warm,—the other quite tender: from this half take out the bones: score it super- ficially ; beat up an egg; put it over the head with a paste- ‘brush, and strew over it a little grated Bread and Lemon- Peel, and Thyme and Parsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then Bread-crumbs, and put it in the Dutch oven ‘to brown. Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put ‘it into a stew-pan with a quart of Gravy (No. 329), or “Turtle Sauce (No. 343), with Forcemeat balls (Nos. 376, 380), Ege-balls, a wine-glass of White Wine, and some Catchup, “&e. : put in thie meat; let it warm together, and skim off the fat. Peel the Tongue, and send it wp with the Brains round ‘it as a side dish, as.directed in No. 10; or beat them up in a basin with a spoonful of flour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and a tew leaves of very finely-minced sage; rub them well together in a ‘mortar, with pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg’; fry them (in little.-cakes) a very light brown; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in the middle; ,and .garnish with crisp, .or curled rashers of Bacon, fried s 2 394 MADE DISHES, &c. Bread aippat (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the Brain: Cakes. : N.B. It is by far the we way to make a Stde Dish of the Toneve and Brains, if you do send up a piece of Bacon as a companion for it, or garnish the Tongue and Brains with the rashers.of Bacon and the Forcemeat balls, both of which are much better kept dry than when im- mersed in the gravy of the Ragoit. Obs.— In order..to make what Common Cooks, who merely cook for the eye, call a fine —large—handsome Dishfui, they put in not only the eatable parts, but all the knots of gristle, and lumps of fat, offal, &c.; and when the Grand Gourmand fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could wish, he often finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of lumps of gristle, fat, &c. | We have. seen a very elegant dish of the Scalp only sent to table rolled sa ié looks like a suns Pig. teal Cutlets Broiled pita or Full- draised-—(Na. 521). Divide the best end of a neck of Veal into cutlets, one rib to each, — broil them plain, or make some fine bread- ~ erumbs ;—mincee a little parsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as possible; put it into a clean stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, and fry it for a minute, — then put on a plate the yolks of a couple of Eggs; mix the herbs, &e. with it, and season it with pepper and salt: dip the Cut-— lets into this mixture, and then into the Bread ; — lay them on a Gridiron over a clear slow fire till they are nicely browned on both sides, — they will take about an hour: send up with them.a few slices of Ham or Bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and 527, and half a pint of No. 343, or No. 356. Knuckle of Veal, to Ragott —(No. 522). Cut a knuckle of Veal into slices about half an inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the trimmings into a stew-pan, with the bone broke in several places; an onion sliced, a head of celery, . , 5 MADE DISHES, &c. 395 a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades of bruised Mace: pour in warm water enough to cover them about an inch; cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours; strain it, and then thicken it with flour and butter; put ina spoonful of Catchup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil up, and strain into a clean stew-pan; put in the meat, make it hot, and serve up. Obs. — If Celery is not to be iad. use a Carrot instead, or flavour it with Celery-Seed, or No. 409. Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rece —-(No. 523). - As boiled knuckle of Veal cold is nota very favourite relish with the generality, cut off some Steaks from it, which you may dress as in the. foregoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave the Knuckle no larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed, Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put it in a large stew-pan with two quarts of water, an Onion, two blades of Mace, and a tea-spoonful of Salt: set it on a quick fire + when it boils, take off all the scum. Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of Rice; put it into the stew-pan with the Meat, and let it stew very ‘gently for about two hours: put the Meat, &c. in a deep dish, and the Rice roured it. . “Send up Bacon with it, Parsneps, or Greens, and finely minced Parsley and Butter, No. 261. 6 Mr. Gay’s Recezpi to Stew a Knuckle of Veal — (No. 524). Take a knuckle of Veal ; You may buy it or steal: In a few pieces cut it, In a stewing-pan put it ; Salt, pepper, and mace, Must season this knuckle ; Then, what’s joined to a place* With other herbs muckle ; * Vulgo, salary. Pe ar 396 ° . MADE DISHES, &c. That which kill’d King Will,* And what never stands still ;+ Some sprigs of that bed} Where children are bred. Which much you will mend, if Both spinach and endive, And lettuce and beet, With marigold meet. Put no water at all, For it maketh things small, Which lest it should happen, A close cover clap on: Put this pot of Wood’s metal|| In a boiling hot kettle ; And there let it be, (Mark the doctrine I teach), About, let me see, Thrice as long as you preach.§ So skimming the fat off, Say grace with your hat off, O! then with what rapture Will it fill Dean and Chapter ! Slices of Ham or Bacon —(No. 526). Ham, or Bacon, may be fried, or BROILED On a grid- won over a clear fire, or TOASTED with a fork: —take care to slice it of the same thickness in every part. If you wish it CURLED, cut it in slices about two inches long (if longer, the outside will be done too much before the inside is done enough); roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer through. it; put it ina Cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, turning it as_it sets crisp. This is considered the yahauatel way of dressing Bacon; but we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper, and more equally done. Obs.—Slices of Ham or Bacon should not be more than half a quarter of an inch thick, and will eat much more * Supposed sorrel. + This is by Dr. BENTLEY thought to be time, or thyme. + Parsley.. Vide CHAMBERLAYNE. ii Of this composition, see the works of the copper-farthing dean. § Which we suppose to be near four hours. a MADE DISHES, &c. 397° mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before they are broiled, &c. Relishing Rashers of Bacon — (No. 527). eit you have any Cold Bacon, you may make a very nice dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; grate some crust of bread, as directed for Ham (see No. 14), and powder them well with it on both sides; lay the rashers in a Cheese-toaster, — they will be -browned on one side in about three minutes; — turn them and do the other. Obs.—These are a delicious accompaniment to poached or fried Eggs:—the Bacon having been boiled* first, is tender and. mellow. — They are an excellent garnish round Veal Cutlets, or Sweet-breads, or Calf’s head Hash, or Green Pease, or Heeb, &e. aid Venison — (No. 528). If you have enough of its own Gravy left, it is prefer- ‘able to any to warm it up in: — if not, take some of the ‘Mutton Gravy (No. 347), or the bones and trimmings of the joint (after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can to make the hash); put these into some water, and stew them gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan ; when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, and stir it well together; add to it by degrees the Gravy you have been making of the trim- “mings, and some Red Currant Jelly; give it a boil up; skim it; strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive ‘the Venison; put it in, and let it just get warm : —2f you det 2t boil, it will make the Meat hard. Hashed Hare — (No. 529). Cut up the Hare into pieces fit to help at table, and ‘divide the joints of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. ‘Pat the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a * To boil Bacon, see No. 13. 398 MADE DISHES, &e. pint of water (there should be a pint of liquor), and @ table-spoonful of Currant Jelly, into a clean stew-panj and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and pour it back into the stew-pan ; now flour the Hare, put it into the gravy, and let it simmer very gently till the Hare is warm (about twenty minutes); cut the Stuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about five minutes before you” serve it; divide the head, and lay one half on each side the Aish . For Hare Soup, see No. 241, Mock Hare, No. 66*. Jugged Hare —(No. 529"). Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help at table, and put them into a Jugging-Pot (these are made by Luoyp, No. 178, Strand), or into a Stone Jar,* just sufficiently laree to hold it well; put in some Sweet Herbs, a roll or two of rind of a Lemon, or a Seville Orange, and a fine large Onion with five cloves stuck in it ,—and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the Hare, a quarter of a pint of water; if you are for a Ragoit, a quarter of a pint of claret, or Port wine, and the juice of a Seville Orange, or Lemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam can escape; put a little hay in the bottom of the sauce-pan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the top of the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare (take care it is * Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being imme~ diately exposed to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally employed: it becomes delicately tender, without being over-done, and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved. This, in chemical technicals, is called Balneum Maris, a WaTER- Batu; in culinary, Batn-Manie ; which A. CHaPPELLe, in his *¢ Modern Cook,” 8vo, page 25, London, 1744, translates ‘¢ Mary’s Bath.” See Note to No. 485. Mary Smirn, in her ** Complete Housekeeper,” 1772, 8vo, pages 105 and 247, translates ‘* Sauce Robert,” RorE-BoatT SaucE,— an °¢ Omeletie,” a HaMLET,—and gives you a receipt how to make “¢ Soupe & la Rarn !” not over-done, which is the general fault in all made dishes, especially this), keeping it boiling all the time, and fill up the pot as it. boils away. When quite tender, strain off the gravy clear from fat; thicken it with flour, and give it a boil»wp : —lay the Hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy toit. — | _ Obs.—You may make a Pudding the same as for Roast Hare (see No. 397), and boil it in a cloth; and when you dish up your Hare, cut it in slices, or make Forcemeat Balls of it, for garnish. For Sauce, No. 346. Or, proceeding, is the following: — ! Prepare the Hare the same as. for jugging; put it into a stew-pan with a few Sweet Herbs, half a dozen Cloves, the same of Allspice and Black pepper, two large Onions, and a roll of Lemon-pee!: cover it with water; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender ‘(about two hours), then take it up with a slice, set it by ‘the fire to keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter, and some flour; rub together; put Strain it through a sieve over the Hare, and it is ready. hi Dressed Ducks, or Geese Hashed — (No. 530). Cut an Onion into smail dice; put it into a stew-pan with a bit of Butter; fry it, but do not let it get any colour; ‘put as much boiling water into the stew-pan as will make sauce for the hash; thicken it with a little flour; cut up the duck, and put it into the sauce to warm; do not let it boil; season it with pepper and salt, and catchup. N.B. The Lees or Gress, &c., broiled, and laid on a. bed of Apple Sauce, are sent up for Luncheon or Supper. Or, Divide the Duck into joints; lay it by ready; put the trimmings and stufting into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water; let it boil half an hour, and then MADE DISHES, &c. 399° _ Amuch easier and quicker, and more certain way of in the gravy; stir it well, and let it boil about ten minutes;, - 400 MADE DISHES, &c. rub it through a sieve ;— put half an ounce of butter: into a stew-pan; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flour with it; stir it over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it by degrees; as soon as it boils, take off the ‘scum, and strain through a sieve into a stew-pan ; put in the Duck, and let it stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes, if the Duck is rather under-roasted : if there is any fat, skim it off: line the dish you serve it up in wil Sippets of bread either fried or toasted. Racovuts oF Pouttry, Gamer, Prcrtons, Rapsits, &c¢. (No. 530*.) Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into joints and pieces proper to help at table, and put it into a stew- pan, with a pint and a half of broth,—or as much water,— with any trimmings or parings of meat you have, one ‘large Onion with cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of All- spice, the same of Black Pepper, anda roll of Lemon-peel; when it boils, skim it very clean ; let it simmer very gently for about an hour and a quarter, ifa Duck or Fowl, — longer if a larger Bird; then strain off the liquor, and leave the Ducks by the fire to keep hot ; skim the fat off ;— put into a clean stew-pan two ounces of Butter; when it ‘is hot stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste; add. the liquor by degrees; let it boil up; put in a glass of Port wine, and a little Lemon-juice, and simmer it ten minutes ; put the Ducks, &c. into the dish, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried Bread, No. 319. Obs. — If the Poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only till just nicely tender, this ‘will be an acceptable Bonne Bouche to those who are fond of Made Dishes. The flavour may be varied by adding Catchup,—Curry Powder,—-or any of the flavoured Vinegars. This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you have a large Dinner to dress; and coming to table ready carved saves a deal of time and trouble ; it is therefore an excellent way of serving Poultry, &c. for a Large Party. ——a MADE DISHES, &c. 401 Or, - Roast or boil the Poultry in the usual way; then cut it up, and pour over it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 329, or No. 364, or No. 2. Stewed Giblets — (No. 531). ~ Clean two sets of Giblets (see Receipt for Giblet Soup, No. 244); put them into a sauce-pan, just cover them with cold water, and set them on the fire ; when they boil, take off the scum, and put in an Onion, three Cloves, or two blades of Mace, a few berries of Black Pepper, the same of Allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of Salt; cover the stew-pan close, and let it simmer very gently till the Giblets are quite tender :— this well take from one hour and a half to two and a half, according to the age of the Giblets,—the pinions will be done first, and must-then be taken out, and put in again to warm when the Gizzards are done: watch them that they do not get too much ‘done : — take them out, and thicken the sauce with Flour and Butter ; — let it boil half an hour, or till there is just enough to eat with the Giblets, and then strain it through ‘a tamis into a clean stew-pan;— cut the Giblets into mouthsful; put them into the Sauce, with the juice of half a Lemon, a table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup ;— pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of Bread at the bottom. Obs. —Ox-Tatts prepared in the same way are excel- pat eating. Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit — (No. 533). ' Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan with a quart of the Broth they were boiled in, and a large Onion cut in four; let it boil half an hour; strain it through a sieve: then put two table-spoonsful of Flour in a basin, and mix it well by degrees with the hot Broth ; set it on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a fine Sieve: wash out the stew-pan, lay the Poultry in it, and pour the gravy on it (through a sieve); set it by the side 402 MADE DISHES, &¢. of the fire to simmer very gently (it must not boc) for fifteen minutes; five minutes before you serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and put the Poultry in the middle; carefully skim the fat off the gravy, then shake it round well i in the stew-pan, and pour it to_ the Hash. N.B. You may garnish the dish with Bread Sippets hghtly toasted. a Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken —(No. 534). ' Skin a cold Chicken, Fowl, or Turkey ; take off the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne; thicken it with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, till the meat is warm, In the mean time score the legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled chicken. Obs. — Three table-spoonsful of good cream, or the yolks of as many Eggs, will be a great improvement to it. € To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon or Rabbit — (No. 535). Cut them in quarters, beat up an Egg or two (accordin ing to the quantity you dress) with a little grated Nutmeg, a Pepper and Salt, some Parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs of Bread; mix these well together, and cover the Fowl, &c. with this batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them a light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put a large spoonful of Catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and pour the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of Lemon and toasted Bread. See No. 355. ) MADE DISHES, &c. 408 “ Devil — (No. 538). ‘The Gizzard and Rump, or Legs, &c. of a dressed Turkey, Capon, or Goose, or Mutton or Veal Kidney, scored,—Peppered,—Salted,—and Broiled, sent up for a relish,—being made 3 hot, has obtained the name of a « Devil.” Obs. — This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a sauce of thick melted butter or gravy, flavoured with Catchup (No. 439), Essence of Anchovy, or No. 434, Eschalot wine (No. 402), Curry Stuff (No. 455, &c.) See Turtle Sauce (No. 343), or Grill Sauce (No. 355), which, as the Palates of the present day are adjusted, will perhaps please Grands Gourmands as well as “ véritable Sauce @Enfer.” —Vide School for the Officers of the Mouth, p. 368, 18mo, London, 1682. at Every man must have experienced that—when he has got deep into his third bottle—his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and his stomach is seized with a certain craving, which seem to demand a Stimulant to the powers of both. The provocatives used on such occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term devils. “« The diables au feu d’enfer, or dry devils, are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry, ‘fish-bones, or biscuits s. and, if pungency alone can justify their appellation, never was title better deserved, for they are usually prepared without any other at- tention than to make them ‘hot as their native element,’ and any jone who can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under ho apprehension of the pains of futurity. It is true, they answer the purpose of exciting thirst ; but they excoriate the palate, vitiate-its nicer powers of discrimination, and pall the relish for the high fla~ ‘vour of good wine: in short, no man should venture upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic, unless they be seasoned by a cook who can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should the scales of justice. ** Tt would be an insult to. the understanding of our readers, to suppose them ignorant of the usual mode of treating common devils ; but we shall make no apology for giving the most minute instruc- tions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant, which, besides, pos- sesses this advantage—that it may be all done at the table, either by yourself, or at least under your own immediate inspection. ‘¢ Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, and curry-powder, with double the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, secundum ariem, a brace of woodcocks rather under-roasted, split the heads, sub-divide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the whole gently over with 404 MADE DISHES, &c. | the mixture ; crush the trail and brains along with the yolk of a hard- boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence of a fine paste: then add a table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira, and the juice of two Seville oranges throw this sauce, along with the birds, into a silver stew-dish, to be heated with spirits of wine—cover close up—light the lamp—and keep gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until the flesh has) imbibed the greater part of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad. oil, stir all once more well together, ‘ put out the light, and then !’"— serve it round instantly; for it is scarcely necessary to say, that a devil should not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot. . ‘* There is, however, one precaution to be used in’ eating it, to which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention, and for want of which, more than one accident has occurred. It is not, as some people might suppose—to avoid eating too much of it— for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent ; but it is this :—in order. to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some portion of it with your fingers; and, as they thereby become impreg- nated with its flavour, if you afterwards chance to let them touch your tongue—you will infallibly lick them to the bone, if you do not ‘swallow them entire.’’— See page 124, &c. of the entertaining ‘‘ Es- ‘SAYS ON GooD LiIvING,” just published. Crusts of Bread for Cheese, §c.—(No. 538). It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at Taverns a loaf entirely spoiled — by furious Epicures paring off the crust to eat with cheese : — to supply this— and to eat with Soups, &c.— pull lightly into small pieces the crumb of a new loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a baking dish; set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and nicely browned— or do them in a Dutch oven. Toast and Cheese —(No. 539). ‘* Happy the man that has each fortune tried, To whom she much has giv’n, and much denied ; With abstinence all delicates he sees, And can regale himself on toast and cheese.” Kine’s Art of Cookery. - Cut a slice of Bread about half an inch thick; pare off the crust, and toast zt very slightly on -one side so as just to brown it, without making it hard or burning it. my n _ TOASTED CHEESE, 405 Cut a slice of Cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese,. or double Gloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a quarter of an inch thick, not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side : — pare off the rind, —cut out all the specks and rotten parts,* and lay it on the toasted Bread in a cheese-toaster;— carefully watch it that it does not burn, and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pel- licle forming on the surface. Have ready good Mustard, Pepper, and Salt. ~ If you observe the directions here given, the Cheese will eat mellow, and will be uniformly done, and the Bread crisp and soft, and will well deserve its ancient appellation of a Mm Rare Bit.” : - Obs.—One would think nothing could be easier than to prepare a Welsh Rabbit ;— yet, not only in Private Fami- lies, but at Taverns, it is very seldom sent to table in per- fection. — We have attempted to account for this:in the last paragraph of Obs. to No. 493. Toasted Cheese, No. 2 —(No. 540). - We have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting the Cheese in the last receipt, except that in Sending it up,—zé wall save much Time in portioning rt out at table if you have half a dozen small Silver or Tin pans to fit into the Cheese-Toaster, and do the Cheese in these: each person may then be helped to a separate pan, and it will keep the Cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold plate. Merm.—Send up with it as many Cobblers} as you have Pans of Cheese. Obs.—Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over Comfort than in the serving out of this dish ; — which, to be presented to the Palate in perfection, it is imperatively indispensable that it be introduced to the Mouth as soon. as it appears on the Table. * Rotten Cheese toasted is the ne plus ultra of haut gout,— and’ only eatable by the thorough-bred Gourmand in the most inverted: state of his jaded Appetite. + The Nursery name for Bread Toasted on one side only. - ? 406 MACARONI. Buttered Toast and Cheese —(No. 541). Prepare a round of Toast ; — butter it; — grate over it good Cheshire Cheese about half the thickness of “ toast, and give it a brown. . Pounded Cheese — (No. 542). Cut a pound of good mellow Chedder, Cheshire, dk North Wiltshire cheése into thin bits; add to it two, and if the Cheese is dry, three ounces of fresh Butter ; pound, and rub them well together in a mortar till it is quite smooth. Obs. — When Cheese is dry, and for those whose di- gestion is feeble, this is the best way of eating it; and spread on Bread, it makes an excellent Luncheon be Supper. N.B. The piquance of this is sometimes increased by pounding with it Curry Powder (No. 455), Ground Spice, Black Pepper, Cayenne, and a little made Mustard ; and some moisten it with a glass of Sherry. If pressed down hard in a jar, and covered with clarified Butter, it wild keep for several days in cool weather. Macaroni — (No. 543), See Macaront Pudding for the Bovling it. The usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding a white sauce, and Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and burning it; but this makes a dish which is pro verbially unwholesome; its bad qualities arise from the oiled and burnt cheese, and the half-dressed flour and butter put into the white sauce. Macaroni plain boiled, and some rich stock or. portabla soup added to it quite hot, will be found a delicious dish, and very wholesome. Or boil Macaroni as directed in the receipt for the Pudding, and serve it quite hot in a deep tureen, and let each guest add grated Parmesan and cold butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is ex- cellent ; this is the most. common Italian mode of dressing -MACARONT. 407 it Macaroni with Cream, Sugar, and Cinnamon, or a little Varicelli added to the Cream, makes a ni nice sweet dish. | English way of dressing Macaroni. Put a quarter of a pound of Riband Macaroni into a stew-pan, with a pint of boiling Milk, or Broth, or Water ; let it boil gently till it is tender, this will take about a quarter of an hour—then put in an ounce of grated cheese, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it well together, and put it on a dish—and stew over it two ounces of grated Parmesan or Cheshire Cheese—and give it a light brown in a Dutch oven. Or put all the Cheese into the Macaroni, and put Bread-crumbs over the top. Macaroni is very good put into a thick Sauce with some shreds of dressed Ham, or in a Curry Sauce. Ri- band Macaroni is best for these dishes, and should not be done so much. Macarom Pudding. . One of the most elegant preparations of Macaroni is the Timbale de Macaront. Simmer half a pound of Macaroni in plenty of water, and a table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but take care not to have it too soft’; though tender, it should be firm, and the form en- tirely preserved, and no part beginning to melt, (this caution will serve for the preparation of all Macaroni). Strain the water from it—beat up five yolks and the white of two eges —take half a pint of the best cream, and the breast of a fowl, and some thin slices of Ham. Mince the breast of the fowl with the Ham —add them with from two to three table-spoonsful of finely grated Par- Mmesan Cheese, and season with Pepper and Salt. . Mix all these with the Macaroni, and put into a pudding- mould well buttered, and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about an hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy (as in Omelette). See No. 543%. - Obs.—This, we have been informed, is considered by a Grand Gourmand as the most important recipe which was added to the collection of his Cook during a gastronomic 408 OMELETTES. tour, through Europe; it is not an uncommon mode preparing Macaroni on the continent. & Omeleties and various ways of dressing Eggs —(No.543* ) There is:no dish which in this country may be con- sidered as coming under the denomination of a Made Dish of the second order, which is so generally eaten, if good, as an Omelette; and no one is so often badly dressed: it is a very faithful assistant in the construc tion of a dinner. : When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an appearance beyond what is provided for the every day dinner, a little portable soup melted down, and some Zest (No. 255), and a few Vegetables, will make a good broth—a pot of the stewed veal of Morrison’s, warmed up—an Omelette, and some Apple or Lemon Fritters, can all be got ready at ten minutes’ notice, and with the original foundation of a Leg of Mutton, or a piece of Beef, will make up a very good dinner when com- pany unexpectedly arrives, in the country. The great merit of an Omelette is, that it shoulda not ‘be greasy, burnt, nor too much done : if too much of the white of the Eggs is left in, no art can prevent its being hard, if it 1s done: to dress the Omelette, the fire should not be too hot, as it is an object to have the whole substance heated, without much browning the outside. — - One of the great errors in the cooking an Omelette is, that it is too thifl: consequently, instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, the substance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather : to get the Omelette thick is one of the great objects. With respect to the flavours to be introduced, these are infinite ; that which is most com- mon, however, is the best, viz. finely chopped Parsley, and Chives or Onions; or Eschalots :—however, one made of a mixture of Tarragon, Chervil, and Parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or adding the Onion or Chives. Of the Meat flavours, the Veal Kidney is the most deli- cate, and is the most admired by our neighbours the French: this should be cut in dice, and should be dressed (boiled) before it is added ;.in the same manner, Ham and a -OMELETTES. 409° Beenovice: shred small, or Tongue, will make a very deli- cately flavoured dish. The objection to an Omelette is, that it is too rich, which makes it advisable to eat but a small quantity. | ‘An addition of some finely mashed. Potatoes, about two table- Beconsis! to an Omelette of six eggs, will much lighten it. Omelettes are often served with rich gravy, but, as a Becca principle, no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy, but accompanied by it:—or what ought to eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened and flat. : taken that the flavour does not overcome that of the Omelette, a thing too little attended to; a fine gravy, with a flavouring of Sweet Herbs and Onions, we think the best: some add a few drops of Tarragon Vinegar ; but this is to be done only with great care: gravies to Omelettes are in general thickened: this should never be done with flour; Potato Starch, or Arrow Root, is the best. Omelettes should be fried in a small F rying-pan made for that purpose, witha small quantity of Butter. The Omelette’s great merit is to be thick, so as not to taste of the outside; therefore use only half the number of whites that you do yolks of Eggs: every care must be taken in frying, even at the risk of not having it quite set in the middle: an Omelette, which has so much vogue abroad, is here, in general, a thin doubled-up piece of leather, and erder than soft leather sometimes. The fact is, that as much care must be bestowed on the frying, as should be taken in poaching an Egg. A Salamander is necessary to those who will have the top brown; but the kitchen Shovel may be substituted for it. The following Receipt is the basis of all Omelettes, of which you may make an endless variety, by taking, in- stead of the Parsley and Eschalot, a’ portion of Sweet of Materials used for making Forcemeats, see No. 373; or any of the Forcemeats between Nos. _373 and 386. : ~Omelettes are called by-the name of what is added to | In the compounding the gravy, great care should be ‘Herbs; or any of the articles etitowerated in the Table’ 410 OMELETTES. flavour them;—-a Ham or Tongue Omelette, —an An- chovy, or a Veal Kidney Omelette, &c.: these are pre= pared exactly in the same way as im the first receipt, leaving out the Parsiey and Eschalot, and mincing the Ham or Kidney very fine, &c., and adding that in the place of them, and then pour over them all sorts of thickened Gravies, — Sauces, &c. | RECEIPT FOR THE CoMMON OMELETTE. Five or six Eggs will make a good-sized Omelette 3 break them into a Basin, and beat them well with a fork ; and add a salt-spoonful of salt; have ready chopped two drachms of Onion, or three drachms of Parsley, a good clove of Eschalot minced very fine; beat it well up ‘with: the Eegs; then take four ounces of fresh Butter, and break half of it into little bits, and put it mto the Omelette, and the other half mto a very clean frying= pan; when it is melted, pour in the Omelette, and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all round the edges, and state it is of a nice brown it is done : — the safest way to take it, out is to put a plate om the Omelette, and turn the pan upside-down : serve it on a hot dish; it should never be done till just wanted. [fF Maigre, grated Cheese, Shrimps, or Oysters.—If Oysters, boil them four minutes, and take away the beard and gristly part; they may either be put in whole, or cut im hits. | ‘¢ Or, Take Eggs ready boiled hard, and either fry them whole, or cut them in half;— when they are boiled (they will take five minutes), let them lie in cold water till you want to use them; then roll them lightly with your hand on a table, and they will peel without breaking; put them on @ cloth to dry, and dredge them lightly with Flour: — | two Eggs in a basin, dip the Eggs in, one at a time, and — then roll them in fine bread- crumbs, or in Duck (No, 378) | or Veal Stuffing (No. 374); set them away ready for fry- ing; fry them in hot Oil or clarified Butter, serve them up : -OMELETTES. ' Alt with Mushroom Sauce, or any other thickened Sauce you please ; crisp Parsley is a pretty garnish. Or, | Do not boil the Eggs till wanted ; boil them ten minutes, peel them as above, cut them in half, put them on a dish, and have ready a Sauce made of two ounces of Butter and. Flour well rubbed together on a plate, and put it in a stew-pan with three quarters of a pint of good Milk; set it on the fire, and stir it till it boils ; —if it is not quite smooth, strain it through a sieve, chop some Parsley and a clove of Eschalot as fine as possible, and put in your Sauce: season it with salt to your taste: a little Mace and Lemon-peel boiled with the Sauce, will improve it: — if you like it still richer, you may add a little Cream, or the yolks of two Eggs, beat up with two table-spoonsful of Milk, and stir it in the last thing: do not let it boil after; place the half Eggs on a dish with the yolks up- ward, and pour the Sauce over them. | N.B. Any coLp Fisu cut in pieces may be warmed in the above Sauce for a sené Dinner. Or, Slice very thin two Onions weighing about two ounces each, put them into a stew-pan with three ounces of Butter; keep therm covered till they are just. done, stir them every now and then, and when they are of a nice Brown, stir in as much Flour as will make them of a stiff paste, then by degrees.add as much Water or Milk as will make it the thickness of good Cream: season it with pepper and salt to your taste; have ready boiled hard four or five. Eggs, — you may either shred them, or eut them in halves or quarters,—then put. them in the Sauce: when they are hot they are ready: garnish them with sippets of Bread. , Or, have ready a plain Omelette, cut into bits, and put them into the Sauce. Or, cut off a little bit of one end of the Eggs, so that they may stand up; and take out the yolks whole of some of them, and cut the whites in half, or in quarters. 412 EGGS. Obs. — This is called 1 in the Parisian kitchen, “ ‘ Eggs ‘ | la Trip, with a Roux.” — | Marrow-Bones—(No. 544). Saw the Bones even, so that they will stand steady ; 3 om i a piece of paste into the ends: set them upright in a Sauce-pan, and boil till they are done enough: —a Beef Marrow-Bone will require from an hour and a half to two” hours ; serve fresh-toasted Bread with them. ! Eggs fried with Bacon-—(No. 545). Lay some slices of fine streaked Bacon (not more than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them before the fire in a Cheese-toaster, turning them when the upper side is browned — first ask those who are to eat the Bacon, if they wish it much or little done, 2. e. curled and — crisped, see No. 526,—or mellow and soft (No. 527) —if the latter, parboil it first. Well-cleansed (see No. 83) Dripping, or Lard, or Fresh Butter, are the best fats for frying Eggs. } Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat is hot, break two or three Eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat ever them with a spoon: — when the Yolk just begins to took white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, they are done enough ; — the white must not lose ets transpa- rency, but the Yolk be seen blushing through it : —if they are done nicely, they will look as white and delicate as if _ they had been poached, take them up with a tin slice, drain the Fat from them, trim them neatly, and send them up with the Bacon round them. Ragott of Eggs and Bacon—(No. 545*). Boil half a dozen Eggs for ten minutes, throw them into cold water, peel them and cut them into halves ; pound the yolks in a marble mortar, with about an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed Fowl, or Veal, a little chopped Parsley, an Anchovy, an Eschalot, a quarter of an ounce of Butter, a table-spoonful of Mushroom Catchup, a little Cayenne, some Bread-crumbs, and a very little beaten ges — i ae Mace, or Allspice; incorporate them well together, we fill the halves of the whites with this mixture ; do them over with the yolk of an Egg, and brown them in a Dutch oven, and serve them on relishing rashers of Bacon or Ham, see No. 527. For Sauce, melted Butter, flavoured to the fancy of the Eaters, with Mushroom Catchup, Anchovy, Ee: der (No. 455), or Zest (No. 255). To Poacu Egcs—(No. 546). The Cook who wishes to display her skill in Poaching, must endeavour to procure Eggs that have been laid a couple of days, those that are quite new-laid are so milky that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them will seldom procure you the praise of being a Prime Poacher ;— you must have fresh Eggs, or it is equally impossible. _ The beauty of a Poached Egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the White, — which should only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a transparent Veil for the Egg. ies some boiling water* in a Tea-kettle, — pass as much of it through a clean-cloth as will half-fill a stew- pan; break the Egg into a cup, and when the water boils, Temove the stew-pan from the stove, and gently slip the Egg into it; it must stand till the white is set ; then put it Over a very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the Ege is ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly. round off the ragged edges of the white,—send them up on Breap toasted on one Side only,+ with or without Butter; or. without a toast, garnished with streaked Bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, or as done in No. 545, or slices of Broiled Beef or Mutton (No. 487), Anchovies _ * Straining the water is an indispensable precaution, unless 1 use Spring-water. + ‘* A couple of poached Eggs, with a few fine dry fried collops of - pure Bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal,” says Sir Keneum Dicry, M.D. in his Closet of Cookery, London, 1669, page 167. a iptart S he Wore 414 EGGS. (Nos. 434 and 435), Pork Sausages (No. 87), or Spinage ’ (No, 122). ‘Obs.—The Bread should be a little larger than the Egg, ~and about a quarter of an inch thick; only just give it a yellow colour: —if you toast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour ;— or moisten it by pouring a little hot water on it; some sprinkle it with a few drops of Vinegar, —or of Essence of Anchovy (No. 433). Lo boil Eggs to eat an the Shell, or for Sataps—(No. 547). The fresher laid the better, put them into boiling water; if you like the white just set,* about fwo minutes boiling is enough; a new-laid egg will take a little more; if you wish the yolk to be set, it will take three, —and to boil it hard for a Savap, ten minutes. See No. 372. Obs. — A new-laid Egg will require boiling longer than a stale one, by half a minute. Tin Machines for boiling Eggs on the Breakfast Table are sold by the Ironmongers, which perform the process very regularly :—in four minutes the white is just set. N.B. “ Eggs may be preserved for Twelve Months, in a sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell, or using for Salads, by boiling them for one minute ; and when wanted for use let them be boiled in the usual manner: the white may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg, but the yolk will shew no difference.”—See HUNTER’ s Culina, page 257. Liggs Poached with Sauce of Minced Ham—(No. 548). Poach the Eggs as before directed, and take two or three slices of boiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a morsel of onion, a little parsley, and pepper and salt's stew all together a quarter of an hour; serve up your sauce about half boiling; put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over the juice of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour the sauce over them. * *¢ The lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table, is to boil them only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater part of the white, without depriving the yolk of its fluidity.”” — Dr. PrEarson’s Mat. Alim. 8vo. 1808, p. 36. TEA. 415 Fried Eggs and Minced Ham or Bacon——(No. 549). Choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of lean ; cut this into very thin slices, and afterwards into ‘small square pieces; throw them into a stew-pan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may lose some of their fat. When as much as will freely come is thus melted from them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stew-pan a ladleful of melted bacon or lard; ; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the , Stew-pan and break in an egg. Manage this. carefully, \and the egg will presently be done: it will be very round, and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take care the yolks do not harden: when the ege is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and do the others. ** They reckon: 685 ways of dressing Eggs in the French Kitchen 3—we hope our half dozen Receipts bad ae variety for the English Kitchen. Ta *—(No. 650). “The Jesuit that came from China, A.D. 1664, told Mr. Waller, that to a drachm of tea they put a pint of water, * Various Ways or Maxine Tera. 1 e 5 . ; : , = “¢ The Japanese reduce their Tea to a fine powder by pounding it.; hey put certain portions of this“into a tea-cup, pour boiling water “apon it, stir it up, and drink it as soon as it is cool enough.” *¢ DuBuIsson’s MANNER OF Maxine TEa. “ Put the Tea into a kettle with cold water,—cover it close, set it on the fire, and make it all but boil, when you see a sort of white #cum on the surface, take it from the fire; ; when the leaves sink she is - ready.” 3 ** The night before you wish to have Tea adele for drinking, pour on it as much cold water as you wish to make T’ea,—next morn- ing pour off the clear liquor, and when you wish to drink it, make it — warm.”” The above are from “‘ L’ Art du Limonadier”’ de Dubuisson, ee spp. 267, 268. Or, 416 COFFEE. and frequently take the yolks of two new-laid eggs, and beat them up with as much fine sugar as is sufficient for — the tea, and stir all well together. ie ale informed. him, — that we let the hot water remain too'long soaking upon the tea, which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of — the herb; the water must remain upon it no longer than while: you can say the ‘ Miserere’ psalm very leisurely ; | you have then only the spiritual part of the tea, the pro- portion of which to the water must be about a drachm to a pint.”—Sir Kenetm Dicesy’s Cookery, London, 1669, page 176. Obs. —'The addition of an Egg makes the “ Chinese ' ae ” a more nutritious and substantial meal for a Tra- CoFrrFrEE. * Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double pur- pose of an agreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without the unpleasant effects of wine. Coffee, as drank in England, debilitates the Stomach, and. produces a slight nausea.. In France and in Italy it is made strong from the best Coffee, and is poured out hot and transparent. In England it is usually made from bad Coffee, served out tepid and muddy, and drowned in a deluge of water, and sometimes deserves the title given it in “ the Petition against Coffee,” 4to, 1674, page 4, ‘* a base, black, thick, nasty bitter, stinking Puddle Water.” To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German Athly, : “A great saving may be made by making a Tincture of Tea, thus, —pour boiling water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full _ —Fill- each cup up with hot water from an urn or kettle, thus the Tea will be always hot and equally strong to the end,—and one tea-spoon- ful will be found enough for three cups for each person ; according to ay. que present moge of making it, three times the quantity is often — sed.” — See Dr. TrusiER’s Way to be Rich and Respectable, Bro, 1796, page 27. * See Dr. Houghton on Coffee, in vol. xxi. of the Phil. Trans. am page 311. ; BNE : : Oj ce 1 & See oe . : Nags \ ag Aba : ye vf _ F. = ) PUDDINGS. AIT fi Me pey at least 4s. the pound for it,—and take at “Ieast in ounce for two breakfast-Cups. No Coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in London. London people should either take their Coffee pure, or | pt a cou eek of tea-spoonsful of cream to each cup. he above is a contribution from an intelligent Traveller who has passed some years on the Contin Suet Pudding, Wiggy’s way — (No. 551). Suet, a quarter of a pound ; flour, three table-spoonsful ; eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. pin so as to mix it well with the flour; beat up the eges, mix them with the milk, and then mix all together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has zt, ‘‘ when You have made Your water bowl, then put Your pudding into Your pot.” Yorkshire Rating under Roast Meat, the Gypsies’ way . (No. 552)... This pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment ; to a Sir-loin of Beef,—Loin of Veal,—or any fat and juicy joint. __ Six table-spoonsful of flour, three eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a pint of milk: so as to make a middling stiff batter, a little stiffer than you would for pancakes; beat it up well, and take care it is not lumpy; put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop into it till it is quite hot and well ereased ; then pour in the batter ;—when the b ae Mince the suet as fine as possible, roll it with the ola upper surface is brown and set, turn it, that both sides may bé brown alike; if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding — an inch thick; it will take two hours at a "good fire. N.B. The true Yorkshire Pudding is about half an inch thick. when done; but it is the fashion in London to make — a : them full twice that thickness, eee 72 418 MY PUDDING. * Plum Pudding —(No. 558). Suet, chopped fine, six ounces. Malaga raisins, stoned, six ounces. Currants, nicely washed and picked, eight ounces. Bread- crumbs, three ounces. Flour, three ounces. Ne NE dey 98 Z Eggs, three. ee ee Sixth of a nutmeg. % Small blade of mace, same quantity | of cinnamon, a pounded as fine as possible. . 3 Half a tea-spoonful of Salt. Half a pint of milk, or rather less. Sugar, four ounces: to which may be added, Candied lemon, one ounce. Citron, half an ounce. Beat the eggs and spice well together; mix the milk 4 with them by ‘degrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine close linen cloth into boiling water, and put jit — in a hair-sieve; flour it a little, and tie it up close ; ; put it © into sayce-pan containing six quarts of boiling water : keep a kettle of boiling water along-side of it, and fill up your pot as it wastes ; ‘be sure to keep it boiling six hours . atleast. — oe My Poi —-(No. 554), sey Béat up the yolks and whites of three Eges; strain ; sthem through ‘a sieve (to keep out the treddles), and — os | gradua lly ada to them about a quarter of a pin et Milk, © stir these, well together,—rub together ii a mortaretwo «ounces of inbist Sugar, and, as niueh grate ¥ will a ona Sixpence, Str these into ¢ os ae. : bell as jine as possible aye: ree. 01 read- cru Ds—mix all'thoroughly 1 to her at. Teast half au hour 1 pu they pudding “the pot; pu ang eartnenw: udding-mould that you have well ‘Sudtered fit | a pudding-cloth over it very ti ion” ag it into bones a tel bis boil it three hours. _ PUDDINGS. | 419 ut One Good Plum into it, and Moost-Aye says, you may then tellithe Economist that you have made a coop Prom Puppinc—without Plums : — this would. be what School-Boys call ‘ Mile-Stone Pudding,” i. €. “a Mile between one Plum and another.” _ N.B. Half a pound of Muscatel Raisins cut in half, * cand added to the above, will make a most admits * \PLum sad cious we) _— erated Lemon-Peel may be added, | | Oxs.—If the water ceases to boil, the Pudding w4ll _ become heavy, and be spoiled ; —if properly managed, this and the following will.be as fine Puddings of the ‘kind as if ‘art can produce. °— » ' Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two befoie! . they are boiled, — the meredients by that means amalga- mate, and the: mrhole becomes richer and fuller of flavour: especially if he various articles be ruorovcHiy well # - stirred together. : A table-spoonful of Treacie wilf give it a rich brown -colour. See Pudding Sauce, No. 269, and Pudding Catchup,:No. 446. N.B. This pudding may be BaKep in an oven, or under Meat, the same as Yorkshire Pudding (No. 552) ; make it the same, only add half a pint of Milk mére : it should be above an inch and a quarter in thi ckness, it will take: full two hours;— it requires careful watching, for if the _ top gets burned, an empyreumatic flavour will a vade the | ‘whole of the Pudding, ~~ @r butter some Tin imince-pie _ patty-pans, or Saucers, and fill them with ‘pudding, and «set thein it a Dutch ov en—they will take about an peat =. - Vie g Maine Prum Puppine. ‘Si immer half a pint of Milk with two blades of Mace, Ms 2. Toll of Lemon-Peel, for ten minutes: then strain ity 9 a Basin; set it away to get cold— in the mean time _ beat three Eges“in a Basin with three ounces of Loaf : Sugar, and the gr ofa Nutmeg: then add’three oinces ‘ of. Flour; beat 1t wellgtogether, and adtl emi by de- 9." -gtees: then put in three ounces of Fresh Butter broke >: : _Anto small pieces, and three ounces of pate Cram ooh 4 he * 420 PUDDINGS. three ounces of Currants washed and picked clean, three — ounces of Raisins stoned and chopped —stir it all well - ‘together. Butter a mould ;, put it in, and tie a cloth tight — over it.’ Boil it two hours and.a half, Serve it up with melted Butter, two table-spoonsful of mies ie and a little Toaf-Sugar. A Far Puppine. Break five Eggs in a basin; beat them up with a tea- ‘spoonful of Sugar and a: table-spoonful of Flour; beat it quite smooth; then put to it a pound of Raisins, and a pound of Suet—it must not be chopped very fine; butter _ amould well; put in the pudding ; tie a cloth over it tight, and boil it Five hours. * N.B. This is very rich, anit is coma called a Mar- Row Puppine. Pease Pudding — (No. 555). Put.a quart of split pease into a clean cloth; do not tie them up tco close, but leave a little room for them to swell; put them on to boil in cold water, slowly till they are tender: if they are good pease they will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half; rub them through a sieve into a deep dish, adding* to them an egg or two, an ounce of butter, and some pepper and salt; ‘beat them well together for about ten minutes, when these ingre- dients are well incorporated together; then flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tiedt up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour lonver. It is as good with boiled Beef as it is with boiled Pork: ; and why be with roasted. Pork ? Obs.—This is a very good accompaniment to cold Pork ‘or cold Beef. N, B. Stir this Pudding into two qnate of the il * To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, — _. the economiealyhousekeeper who has a large family to feed may now add two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. aan To many this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. . See also No. 107. _ . Ae z , é . a fae UN mh: “aa = “e > 2 ier at " a > et ; 2 PUDDINGS. 421 Meat: or Poultry has been boiled in; give. it a boil up, and in five minutes it will make excellent EXTEMPORE _ Peass Soup, especially if the pudding has been boiled in the same pot as the Meat (see No. 218, &c.) Season it with Pease Powder, No. 458. sh Plain Bread Pudding — (No. 556). Make five ounces of Bread- crumbs; put them in a basin; _ pour three quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them ; put a plate over the top to keep in the steam ; let it stand twenty minutes, then beat it up quite smooth with two ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. Break four eggs on a plate, leaving out one white; beat them well, and add them to the Pudding. Stir it all well toge- ther, and put it in a mould that has been well buttered and floured ; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one hour. Bread and Butter Pudding — (No. 557). You must have a dish that will hold a quart,—wash and pick two ounces of currants; strew a few at the bot- tom of the dish; cut about four layers of very thin Bread | and Butter, and between each layer of Bread and Butter strew some currants; then break four eggs in a basin, leaving out one white; beat them well, and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm of nutmeg; stir it well together with a pint of new milk; pour it over about ten | minutes before you put it in the oven, —it will take three quarters of an hour to bake. Pancakes and Fritters — (No. 558). Break three Eggs in a Basin ; beat them up with a little _hutmeg and salt, — then put to them four ounces and a ~ half of. flour, and a little milk, —beat it of a smooth ~ batter then add by degrees as much milk as will make it the thickness of good cream : the frying-pan must be about the size ofa pudding plate, and very clean, or they will stick; make it hot, and to each pancake put in a bit of _ butter about as big as a walnut: when it is melted, pour % in pane batter to cover the bottom of the pan; make them: es « . 422 as PUDDINGS. the thickness of half a crown; fry them of a light | brown, on both sides. . The above will do for Apple Purend by adding | one spoonful more of Flour; peel your Apples, and cut them in thick slices; take out the core, dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot lard ,—put them on a sieve to drain, —dish them neatly, and grate some loaf-sugar over © them. | No. 560. The following Receipts are from Mr. Henry Oszorne, ‘Cook to Str JosrrH Banxs, the late President of the ‘Royal Society : — Soho Square, April 20, 1820. Sir—TI send you herewith the last part of the Cook’s ‘Oracle. I have attentively looked over each receipt, and hope they are now correct, and easy to be understood. If ryou think any need further explanation, Sir Joseph has desired me to wait on you again. 1 also send the Receipts for my ten Puddings, and. my method of using Sprig Fruit and Gourds. Tam, Sir, Your humble Servant, Henry Osporne. Boston ead Pudding. Peel one dozen and a half of good Apples ; take out _ the cores, —cut them small,—put into a stew- -pan that will just hold them, with a little water, a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel of a lemon; stew over a slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and pass it through a hair-sieve; add to it the yolks of four eggs and one white, a quarter of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of one lemon: beat all well together; line the inside of a pie- ‘dish with good puff paste; put m the pudding, and bake chalf an hour. PUDDINGS. a Spring Fruit Pudding. Peel, and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb: put into a stew-pan with the pudding a lemon, a little cinna- mon, and as much moist sugar as will make it quite sweet ; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade; pass through a hair-sieve, and proceed as directed for the Boston Pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice, as the -thubarb will be found sufficiently acid of itself. Nottingham Pudding. Peel six good apples; take out the core with the point of a small knife, or an apple corer, if you have one, — but be sure to leave the apples whole; fill up where you took the core from with sugar; place them in a pie-dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, prepared as for Batter Pudding, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. Battier Pudding. Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eges; beat up well with a little milk, added by de- grees till the batter is quite smooth — make it the thick- ness of cream,—put into a buttered pie-dish, and bake three quarters of an hour, or into a buttered and floured basin, tied over tight with a cloth—boil one and a half _ hour, or two hours. Newmarhet Pudding. Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with halfa lemon- : peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf; boil gently for five or ten minutes; sweeten with loaf sugar; break the yolks of five, and the whites of three eggs, into a basin : a them ell, and add the milk,—beat, ‘all well together, d strain through a fine hair-sieve, or tamis ,—have some Ecad and butter cut very thin; lay a layer of it ina pie- dish, and then a layer of currants, and so on till the dish is nearly full, —then pour the custard over. it, and bake half an hour. ‘424 PUDDINGS. Newcastle, or Cabinet Pudding. Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and stick all round with dried cherries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread and butter, &c. as inthe above; and steam it an hour and a half. | 4s Vermicellt Pudding. | Boil a pint of milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon; — sweeten with loaf-sugar; strain through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli; boil ten minutes, then put in the yolks of five, and the whites of three eggs; mix well together, and steam it one hour and a quarter: the same may be baked half an hour. » Bread Pudding. Make a pint of Bread-crumbs; put them in a ‘stew-pan with as much milk as will cover them, the peel of a lemon, and a little nutmeg grated, a small piece of cinnamon: boil about. ten minutes; sweeten with powdered loaf- sugar; take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs; beat all well together, and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. Custard Pudding. Boil a pint of Milk, and a quarter of a pint of good Cream; thicken with flour and water made perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an ege on it; break in the yolks of five eggs; sweeten with powdered loaf- sugar; grate in a little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add half a glass of good brandy, then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite stiff, and mix gently all together : line a pie-dish with good puff paste, and bake half ‘an hour. : ' N.B. Ground Rice,* Potato Flour, Panada, and all Puddings made from Powders, are, or may be, prepared - In the same way. MISCELLANEOUS. 425 Boiled Custards. Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or Taurel-leaf, a small stick ‘of cinnamon ; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it does not boil over: when it boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten minutes; break the ‘yolks of eight, and the whites of four eggs into a basin ; beat them well, —then pour in the milk a little at a time, stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the eggs curdling; set it on the fire again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve: when cold, add a little brandy, or white wine, as may be most agreeable to the eater’s palate : -~— serve up in glasses, or cups. CustaRDs FOR BAKING are prépared as above,— passed through a fine sieve; put them into cups; grate a little nutmeg over each, —bake them about 15 or 20 minutes. TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. vents Fruit Sour. Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of Rhubais blanch it in water three or four minutes; drain it on.a sieve, and put it into a stew-pan, with two Onions sliced, a Carrot, an ounce of lean Ham, and a good bit of Butter; let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender; then put in two quarts of good Consommé, to which add two or three ounces of Bread-crumbs; boil about fifteen minutes; skim. off all the fat; season with -salt and Cayenne pepper; pass it through a tamis, and serve up with fried _bread. . Sprine Fruit Ruppine. Clean as above three or four dozen sticks of Rhubarb; put: it in a stew-pan, with the peel of a Lemon, a bit of Cinnamon, two Cloves, and as much moist sugar as will $weeten it; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade; Dis ae 426 MISCELLANEOUS. pass it through a hair-sieve; then add the peel of a Lemon, and half a Nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good Butter, and the yolks of four Eggs and one white, and mix all well together; line a pie-dish (that will just con- tain it) with good puff paste; put the mixture in, and bake it half an hour. Sprinc Frurir— A Mock GoosEBERRY SAUCE FOR MackeEREL, &c. Make a Marmalade of three dozen sticks of Rhubarb, sweetened with moist Sugar; pass it through a hair-sieve, and serve up ina sauce heb Sprine Fruit Tart. Prepare Rhubarb as above; cut it mto small pieces into a Tart-dish ; sweeten with Loaf-Sugar pounded; cover it with a good short crust paste; sift a little Sugar over the top, and bake half an hour ina rather hot oven: serve up cold. SPRING Cream, on Mock GoosEBperry Foot. Prepare a Marmalade as directed for the Pudding: to which add a pint of good thick Cream; serve up in glasses, or in a deep dish:—if wanted ina shape, dissolve two ounces of Isinglass in a little water ;. strain it through a tamis, and when nearly cold put it to the Cream; pour it into a Jelly mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. Serine Fruit SHERBET. Boil six or eight sticks of Rhubarb (quite clean) ten minutes in a quart of water; strain the liquor through a tamis into a jug, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table-spoonsful of clarified Sugar; let it stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink. Gourps (now called Vegetable Marrow) SteweEp. Take off all the skin of six or eight Gourds, put them into a stew-pan, with water, Salt, Lemon-juice, and a bit MISCELLANEOUS. 427 - ) of Butter, or fat Bacon, and let them stew gently till quite tender, and serve up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any other ‘sauce you please that is piquante. | GourRpD Soup Should be made of full-grown Gourds, but not those that have hard skins; slice three or four, and put them in a stew-pan, with two or three Onions, and a good bit of Butter; set them over a slow fire till quite tender (be careful not to let them burn); then add two ounces of crust of Bread, and two quarts of good Consommé ; season with salt and Cayenne pepper: boil ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim off all the fat, and pass it through atamis; then make it quite hot, and serve up with fried bread. Friep Gourps. Cut five or six Gourds in quarters; take off the skin and pulp; stew them in the same manner as for table: when done, drain them,quite dry; beat up an Egg, and dip the Gourds in it, and cover them well over with Bread-crumbs; make some Hog’s-lard hot, and fry them a nice light colour ; throw a little salt and pepper over them, and serve up quite dry. ’ Another Way. Take six or eight small Gourds, as near of a size as possible; slice them with a Cucumber-slice ; dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great attention is requisite to do these. well, — if the fat is quite hot, they are done in a minute, and will soon spoil — if not hot enough, they will eat greasy and tough. To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea —(No. 563). Cut & pound of lean gravy Meat into thin slices; put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water, set it over a very gentle fire, where it will become gradually warm $ when the scum rises, let it continue simmering gently for 428 MISCELLANEOUS. about an hour, then strain it through a fine sieve, ora nap- kin, let it. stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour: off the clear Tea. N.B. An Onion, and a few grains of Black Pepper, are sometimes added. If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you ‘may mince it and pound it as directed in No. 503, and make Porrep Berer. | To make half a pint of Beef Tea in five minutes for three halfpence, see No. 252. . Mutton Broth for the Sick—(No. 564). Have a pound and a half of a Neck or Loin of Mutton, take off the skin and the fat, and put it into a sauce-pan ; - cover it with cold water, (it will take about a quart toa pound of meat,) let it simmer very gently, and skim it _ well; cover it up, and set it over a moderate fire, where it may stand gently stewing for about an hour, then strain it off. It should be allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles will float on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken off, and the settlings will remain at the bottom. See also Nos. 490 and 252. ) N.B. We direct the Meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to be eaten,—so a sick man may have plenty of good Broth for nothing, as by this manner of producing it, the meat furnishes also a good family meal. Obs.—This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick per- sons—and the only Mutton Broth that should be given to convalescents, whose constitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easy digestion. The common way of making it with Roots— Onions—Sweet Herbs, &c. &c. is too strong for weak Stomachs. Plain Broth will agree with a delicate Stomach, when the least addi- tion.of other ingredients would immediately offend it. For the various ways of flavouring Broth, see No. 527. Few know how much good may be done by such Broth, taken in sufficient quantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers, — half a pint taken at a time. : MISCELLANEOUS. — 429 See the last two pages of the 7th Chapter of the Rudi- | ‘ments of Cookery. Barley Water—(No. 565). — Take a couple of ounces of Pearl Barley, wash it clean with cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes; pour off this water, and add to it two quarts of boiling water: boil it to two pints, and strain it. The above is simple Barley Water ; — to a quart of this is frequently added Two ounces of Figs, sliced ; The same of Raisins, stoned; _ Half an ounce of Liquorice, sliced and bruised ; And a pint of water. Boil it till it is reduced to a quart, and strain. Obs. — These drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent Fevers and inflammatory disorders, for which plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the principal remedies : — and if not suggested by the Medical attendant, is fre- quently demanded by honest Instinct, in terms too plain to be misunderstood: —the Stomach sympathises with every fibre of the human frame, and no part of it can be distressed without in some degree offending the Stomach : therefore it is of the utmost importance to soothe this grand Organ, by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant and agreeable asthe nature of the case will admit of:—the Barley drink prepared according to the second receipt, will be received with pleasure by the most deli- cate palate. Wuey —(No. 566). Make a pint of Milk boil, —put to it a glass or two of white Wine— put it on the fire till it just boils again — then set it on one side till the Curd has settled — pour off the clear Whey, and sweeten it as you ke. | Cider is often substituted for Wine, or half the quantity of Vinegar that we have ordered Wine. : - Obs.— When there is no fire in the sick room, this may 430 MISCELLANEOUS.. be put. hot into a bottle-—and:laid between the Bed and Mattress — it will keep warm several hours. Toothach and Anti-rheumatic Embrocation — (No. 567). In no branch of the practice of Physic is there more Dangerous Quackery, than in the dental department. To all People the Tooruacu is an intolerable Torment — not even a Philosopher can endure it patiently — what an overcoming agony, then, must it be to a Grand Gour- mand ! —besides the mortification of being deprived of the means of enjoying that consolation which he looks to as the grand solace for all sublunary cares. When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the fol- lowing specific for it ; RK Sal volinbe three parts. Laudanum, one part. Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the Tooth which aches be hollow, drop some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the Tooth ;—for a general Face- ache, or sore Throat, moisten a bit of flannel with it, and put it at night to the part affected. Stomachie Tincture — (No. 569) —is Peruvian Bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. Orange Peel, do. one ounce. Brandy, or Proof Spirit, one pint. Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle every day. — let it remain quiet two days — -and then decant the clear liquor. Dose — a Tea-spoonful in a wine- glass of water, twice a day, when you feel languid, 2. e. when the Stomach is empty, about an hour before Dinner, and in the Evening. This agreeable Aromatic Tonic, is an effective help to concoction, — and we are under personal obligations to it, for frequently restoring our Stomach to, good temper, and procuring us good Appetite and good Digestion. In low nervous affections arising from a languid cireula- tion —and when the Stomach is in a state of debility from age, intemperance, or other causes—this is a most ac-- ceptable restorative. ¥ MISCELLANEOUSe. 43% N.B. Tra made with dried and bruised Srvitur Orance Prszt, in the same way as common Tea, and drank with Milk and Sugar, has been taken by nervous re dyspeptic persons with great benefit. Sucxine a bit of dried Orange-Peel about an hour Remre dinner, when the Stomach is empty, is very paeiot and strengthening to it. | Parecoric Exrirxir — (No. 570), _ A drachm of purified Opium. Same of Flowers of Benjamin. _ Same of Oil of Aniseed. Camphor, two scruples. Steep all in a pint of Brandy or Proof Spirit; let it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up. Strain. A tea-spoonful in half a pint “of White Wine Whey (No. 562), Tewahdiddle (No. 467), or Gruel (No. 572), taken the last thing at night, is an agreeable and effectual medicine for Coughs and Colds. It is also excellent for Children who: have the Hooping- Cough, in doses of from five to twenty drops in a little water, or ona little bit of Sugar. Dr. Kircu1ner’s Receipt to make Gruel—(No. 572). Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it Tu1cx or thin; if the latter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint. basin, one table- spoonful of Oatmeal, with three of cold water; — if the former, use two spoonsful. _ Have ready in a Stew-pan, a pint of boiling water or milk,— pour this by degrees to the Oatmeal you have mixed, — return it into the Stewpan,— set it on the fire,— and let it boil for five minutes, — stirring it all the time to prevent the Oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the Stewpan, — skim and strain it through a Hair-Sieve. 2d. To convert this into Caupte, —adda little Ale,— Wine,— or Brandy, are disordered, a little Ratines or Ginger erated. Obs.—Gruel may be made with Broth (No. 490, or No. 252, or No. 564,) instead of water,—(to make Crowdie, see No. 205*)— and may be flavoured with, sae “MISCELLANEOUS. Sweet Herbs, Soup Roots, and Savoury Spices, — by boil-_ ing them for a few minutes in the water you are going to — make the Gruel with;—or ZEst (No. 255),—Pease Powder — (No. 458),—or dried Mint ,~~Mushroom Catchup (No. 409), — — or a few grains of Curry Powder (No. 455),— or Sa-— voury Ragotit Powder (No. 457), or Cayenne (No. 404), —or Celery-Seed bruised,—or Soup Herb Powder (No. 459), or an Onion minced very fine and bruised in- with the Oatmeal, — ora little Eschalot Wine (No. 402), — or Essence of Celery (Nos. 409, 413, 417, or No. 420), &c. PLAIN Ghurt, such as is directed in the first part of this Receipt, is one of the best breakfasts and Suppers that we can recommend to the rational Epicure —is the most comforting soother of an irritable Stomach that we know — and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day’s work of intemperate Feasting — when the addition of half an ounce of butter, and a tea-spoonful of Epsom Salt, will give it an aperient quality, which will assist the principal Viscera to get rid of their burden. “‘Water Gruel,’ says Tryon in his Obs. on Health, 16mo, 1688, p. 42, is ‘‘ the Kine of Spoon Meats,” and ‘* the QurrN of Soups,” and. gratifies nature beyond all others. In the “ Art of Thriving,” 1697, p. 8, are directions for preparing Fourscore Noble and Wholsesome Dishes, upon most of which a Man may live excellent well. for - Two-pence a day; the author’s Obs. on Water Gruel is, that ‘“‘ Essence or Oarmtat makes a noble and exhl- rating meal !” Dr. FRaNKLIN’s favourite Breakfast was a good basin of warm Gruel, in which there was a small slice of Butter, with Toasted Bread and Nutmeg, — the expense of this he reckoned at three halfpence. Scotch Burgoo — (No. 572*). ‘‘ This humble dish of our Northern brethren forms no contemptible article of food. It possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, ‘in fact, a sort of Oatmeal Hasty Pudding without milk, = MISCELLANEOUS. 433 “much used by those patterns of combined industry, fru- -gality, and temperance, the Scottish peasantry, and this, among other examples of the economical Scotch, is well worthy of being occasionally adopted by all who have large families and small incomes.’ It is made in the following easy and expeditious manner : — . “© To a quart of Oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water, so that the whole may smoothly mix : then stirring it continually over the fire, boil it together for a quarter of an hour; after which, take it up, and stir in a little Salt and Butter, with or ‘without Pepper. This quantity will serve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal.” —Onppy’s Family Receipt Book, p. 204. Anchovy Toast — (No. 573). Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar - with a little fresh butter; rub them through a sieve, and spread them on a toast, see Nos. 434 and 435, and No. 355. Obs.—You may add, while pounding the anchovies, a little made Mustard and Curry Powder (No.455) or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little Mace or-other spice. It may be made still more savoury, by frying the toast in vanes butter. Deviled Biscuit — (No. 574) Is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in a Dutch oven, with a sufficient quantity . of salt and savoury Spice (No. 457), Zest (No. 255), Curry Powder (No. 455), or Cayenne Pepper, sprinkled over it. Obs.—This ne plus ultra of high spiced relishes, and No. 538, frequently make their appearance at tavern . dinners, when the votaries of Bacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to the Jolly God. UC MARKETING TABLES, Shewing the Seasons when Meuat—Pouttry — Fisn —~ and VEGETABLES — are Best and CHEAPEST. : ) MEAT. The Prices were fixed (January 1, 1817) by an eminent Butcher, who sells an article of first-rate quality; and though the Price should vary, the relative value will be exnibited. bend vo ES | se a> ei $ SS. i are aa ae | BEEF. OS'S OSs = & THE HIND QUARTER. ’ lb. oz. | Ib. oz. per lb. 13 1 8} I. Sir Loin.---+------. 0: 9 ee Aaya in 94) teak to Broil (No. to 20 0) 4 oO [fe RUMP ire sarne eee 09 Stew (Nos. 500 and 501). 11-04) .1. 4) 3. Edge-Bone .++---+. 0 6 | Boiled (No. 8). 1312] 1 §| 4. Buttock, or Round. 0 7 Satiod HechiNortae ATe 5. Mouse ditto-------- 0 6 | For Alamode Beef (No. 502). 6. Veiny Piece----+---- 0 ‘7 | Generally Baked or Salted. 1}: 0 5 Rae 7. Thick Flank ------ QO 6 | ceeeeceee Salted. 8. Thin ditto --+----- 0 63 oe sreeee abet : : Os Legit ipaeek wares 0: 23 “(No. wae 1P0)» tee THE FORE QUARTER. ee Per ib.) ¢ Roasted (No. 20), Boned and 14 4| 1 12| 10. Fore Rib, 6 Ribs ---0 9 Rolled (No. 21). ll. Middle do., 3do. -- 0 7 | Ditto. J2. Chuck do., 3do. -. 0 5 | For making Gravy.. _ SOP utes Beet 0 6 | For Steaks or Soup. For Stewing (No. 494), or 14. Brisket --++-.-++-0. 0 6 pees (No. 495), — or alted. . Principally used for Beef [5 Clods..3 wast. anes 4 Sat ewe Bie F/O 7107) 16. spt eo ae 0 84) Ditto, or making Soup. Excellent Scotch Barley 9 Of} 2 4117. Shin --ereeeeveeee 23 STN re and Stew- e ta) 18. The Head, 3s. Gd. «++++++ : { Pontos Sy bank Stewed, The Tail, 7d. --++++-++++> Ditto (No. 240}, Do. ie riod OA PERS heey tae Boiled (No.-18*), Jelly o The Heels --+++-++ { (No. 198), Soup (No. 240*), The Nos. refer to the Receipts for dressing. Weight of Meat ay og Oro before it was dressed. so. o aS o pens ~~ D > Bes MUTTON. Ses & i ee eee Bolled (No..1),, or Roasted). 2. Loin, béstend ---. + 0 8 ee 3. Ditto, chump end -- {i bnop Ms Roasted (No. = ’ : : Ditto (No. oy Roasted hee 29), Irish Stew (No. 488 0 3} 4 Neck, best end +--+ 0: 7 } Haricot (No. 489), Stewed (No. 490). 5. Ditto, scrag end.----+ 0 5} 'Tomake Broth (No. 194). 1 O | 6. Shoulder -.---.-.-+-- 0 7 Roasted (No. 27). “7. Breast «--++-+ee-- «++ 0 51] Grilled (Obs. to No. 38), Head, 9d. ----+++ee5- Broth. The Chine, oe the : Saddle, two Loins re The Haunch is ak 0 8 Saree aes ae eninone Leg, and part =| pias the Loin * << oes. 6% VEAL. | er Ib. 1. Loin, best end ------ 011 | Roasted (No. 35). 2. Ditto, chump end -- 0 11 | Ditto Ditto. : Roasted (No. 34), to make 3. Fillet. --++-++e++-s see Veal Olives (No. 510) Scotch ; Collops (No. 517*). a 4. Knuckle, Hind.-.--- G27 ff ES ROCONS: | (NS Onn AA a tOr The whole Leg |-----0 103 | yew {ho 229) S00P oF 1 0} 5. Neck, best end-...-- 0 11 | Roasted (No. 37). 0 10 } 6. Ditto, scrag end ---- 0 8 | Ditto Ditto. The whole Neck---- 0 93 7. Blade Bone --------- 0 10 | Roasted. : Stewed (No. 515); to Ra- 8. Breast, bestend ---- 0 11 goat (No. 517), to Curry (No. 497). ; es 9. Ditto, brisket end -. 0.10 | { Saved, (or Bip) to Rago’ 10. Knuckle, Fore-----. 0-7 | Same as Hind Knuckle. The Head, with the Skin} § Boiled ‘plain (No. 10), to on, from 7s. to 15s. ----- ¢@ Hash (Nos. ‘10 and 520). Ditto, skinned, 5s.....---. Fried (No. 90), MARKETING TABLES. | MEAT. PETTELOESA).0/0:3)'8 00:6. 8. cose s Halapee 521). 435 Broiled (No. > 436 MARKETING TABLES. In the foregoing Table, we have given the proportions of Bone to Meat, — the for-- mer not being weighed till cooked,—by which, of course, its weight was considerably diminished. These proportions differ in almost every Animal,—and from the different manner in which they are cut. Those who pay the highest—do not always pay the dearest Price. In fact the Best Meat is the cheapest ;—and those who treat a tradesman liberally, have a much better chance of being well served — than those who are for ever bargaining for the Market Penny. In dividing the Joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the Bones, Fat, Flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more ‘than a penny per pound in most pieces — and a Butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife in favour of that Customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he pur- chases :—have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain? Have they not invited such conduct ? The Quality of BurcHErR-MEAT varies quite as much as the Price of it —accord- ing to its age—how it has been fed—and especially how it has been treated the week before it has been killed. The following statements were sent to us by a very re- spectable Tradesman :— Be&F is best and cheapest from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The Price, per pound, now varies from 4d. to ls. VBZAL is best from March to July. The price varies accordiug to the season and the supply—and the quality differs so much, that the same Joints now sell from 5d. to 1ld. per pound. MurtTTon is best from Christmas to Midsummer —the difference in price between the worst and the best, is now from 5d, to 9d. per pound. ' j Grass Lamp is best from Easter to June— Housep LAms from Christmas to une. The Editor has for many years purchased his Butcher-Meat of Mr. Traepway, the corner of Titchfield and Upper Mary-le-bone Street. . POULTRY. eae ————-; POULTRY. Come into Season. Continue. Cheapest. Chickens. <«-.- +15 +20 doy Rin es 6 : a hae : all ee November. Poulards with eggs, March. -- March . -+-.--.-.--+|Till September.----.- FIATES occ cc scucsess September 0.) Sa. wieim © " Partridges 5 Sa OS Ae Pheasants ---++--++- OCEODER Si < a eta ate 20h Grouse. -+=-s20% --|AuguSt .--- ais beieee ‘ MOOr Game «0 -cccccfesncscctccescreseose Tall MATCH s «006s s0a0 * Woodcock Snipes. --|November ------+.- ecg Combs, Fat Livers, Eggs, &e. are dearest in April and May, and cheapest in ugust. P Vowie? HEADs may be had three for a penny, —a dozen will make a very good ‘Pie, or Soup, like No. 244. TuRKEY Heads, about 2 penny each. Ducx GisueEts, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a Twreen of good Soup for sixpence, see No: 244, Ons.—PouLtRy is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty. The Price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the supply at market, — and the demand for it. . It is generally Dearest from March to July, when the town’ is fullest, —and Cheapest about September, when the Game season commences, and the weather being colder, allows of its being brought, from more distant parts, and the town i cage thin, there is less Gemand for it. The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to Economical Fami- -lies,—who, from hearing the very high price Poultry sometimes costs; aré deterred from ever inquiring about it,—in the cheap seasons we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as Butcher-meat. The Editor purchasés His Poultry of Mr. Harris, Duke Street, Oxford Street. FISH, The Price or Fisn is as changeable as the position of the wind, — and entirely depends upon the supply. : ae ou may purchase as much for one shilling to-day, as to-morrow you can get for two or three,—and may generally buy one sort of fish much cheaper than another. ° For the following, and for several other observations on Fish, the Public are a to Mr. WILLIAM TuckER, Fishmonger, Great Russell Street, Blooms- ury- pee? shia *€ October 18, 1816.' «« Sin, —SBASONS OF FisH frequently will vary; the spawning time being governed, in some degree, by the heat or coldness of the season; and there may be a good Cod in the midst of summer,—or a good» Turbot in the midst of winter. — Attention to the proper Seasons of Fish is, however, very important, for many are absolutely poisonous when out of season—especially BARBEL — SALMON— SKATE, &c., and occasion most frightful vomitings and purgings; &c. : ** There is no article so fluctuating in price as fish; the London market being supplied principally by water-carriage from all parts of the coast, the wind cannot be fair for all; the consequence then is, frequently, a great abundance of some sorts, -and none; or little, of many others. ; ‘ ‘© Persons send their servants to market; to get; perhaps a Turbot, or Cod’s head and shoulders; —it very likely happens those aiticles, are scarce and extrava- _ #gant:—the servants have no other order, or perhaps will not take the trouble to -. get other orders, but order a turbot at 3s. or 40s.; whereas they might have 438 MARKETING TABLES. as good a dish of any other sort for half the money In this case the tradesman is frequently condemned as an extravagant fellow, when, perhaps, he gets nothing by selling it. It is people’s own fault that they have fish at such an extravagant price: if masters or mistresses were to go to market themselves, —if one sort was dear, they could have another; or, if not convenient to go themselves, desire the fish- monger to send a handsome dish, the most seasonable and reasonable, for so many persons.’ mar VEGETABLES. ‘The Public residing in London, and other large Towns, are frequently, from want of regular information when the proper seasons arrive for Vegetables, put to much inconvenience in attending the Markets, making unnecessary inquiries, &c. ‘ ae following List, it is presumed, will afford much useful information to the eader : — Earliest time for Earliest Names of Vegetables. FRAPS Natunel Crbenie When cheapest. Artichokes (INO. 136) -+++-|eceseceeeseeeees July on to October -:- App emaitere Ditto Jerusalem (No. 117)|-++++++++eee ++--| From Sept. to June fol. masiaeehg Angelica stalks, for poet et, okie { ge ae re Cyne and" PR SETVING ++-+eeeeeeee . whole of June ---- : Mid. of April, Ma Asparagus (No. 123) ------ Begin. of Jan. { Fine ea July via June and July. Beans, French or Kidneys| Early in Feb. { Anes oe oe August. Dari i Seiad Hatch Gib aero 8 elostie nil etavaceareieien oe viigratent July Spats lone avetdve) eumts eto September. indsor beans, long pods June : ...| July and Au and early kinds igs) Rae Seas eeceses eoreccs eeceveee ee2eecece £- Beet, Red (NO. 127) ---2+s[oeeeeceeseeeeees All the year ---+--+--- Dec. and Jan. Ditto, White, the dea ved ere «6 ves cretion isle a July -+++e-eee peswialese ete Se eee sie Fede untae Nees ..».-| November ----+----«-| Dec. and Jan. | Broccoli (No. 126) v-ccsccclocvcovcvcescvess OGHODET. «© skeis enero e sers vee and Mar. Cabbage (No. 118)! .---ceelecencceccccseees May and June..--.-.-.| Julye_ Ditto Rad esos t o Sols cies epee sale dieinsaists July and August -----} August. MDILLOS BWW ILC: deacon iss ctave-cit susietnteveetns woke eee October - ++ i piahe - * --| October. Nov. and three fol- Cardoons ----- ents 5:0 sia he wlohe tele eetecrs Pore { lowing months .-. } December. Carrots: (NO. 129): -2-\-colssseecseccnies coe] May -- eer eeeseeecene August. Caulifiowers (No. 125) -+++|.2+-+-seeeeeeees Beginning of June -.--| July and Aug. Celery (NO. 289) --+-sscee[eeeseccasceucees Ditto September -----| November. rena % "8 Diss Die de 06 46:00. 4'lew a ciaere dele walpene April ee . Howey Corn Salad. + -+ N.B. This Crust is frequently Iced. | | Ratsep Prrs—(No. 5). Put two pounds and a half of Flour on the Paste- board,—and put on'the fire, in a sauce-pan, three quarters of a pint of Water, and half a pound of good Lard ;— when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of ‘the ‘flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mix- ing the flour with it with a Spoon, and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff; dredge a little Flour to prevent its. sticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth : — do not roll it with the Rolling-pin, —but roll it with your hands, about the thickness of a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers, — put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside till you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: — have your meat ready cut, and seasoned with Pepper and Salt :—if Pork, cut it in small slices; the Griskin is the best for ‘pasties: — if you use Mutton, cut it in very neat cutlets, and put them in the Pies as you make them; roll out the covers with the Rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumb and finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of Scissors quite even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half. Paste for Boiled Puddings--(No. 6). Pick and chop very fine half a pound of Beef Suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of Flour, and a little Salt: mix it with halfa pint of Milk or Water, and beat it well with the Rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour. ; u 2 442 PASTRY, &e. ~ [ Appendix. Paste for stringing Tartlets, §c.—(No. 7). Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of Flour, an ounce of fresh Butter, and a little cold water; rub it elk between the board Rae) your hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your Tartlets in any device you please, and bake them ured Paste for Cronies or Cut Pastry—(No. 8). To half a pound of fine Flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted Loaf Sugar; mix it well together with Yolks of Eggs till of a good stiffness. Venison Pasty—(No. 9). Take a Neck, Shoulder, or Breast of Venison, that has not hung too. long, bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port Wine, two Onions, or a few Eschalots sliced, some Pepper, Salt, three blades of Mace, about a dozen Allspice, and enough Veal Broth to cover it; put it over a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done: put the trimmings into another sauce-pan, cover it with water, and set it on a fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into a deep dish with a little of their Liquor, and set it by to cool; then add the remainder of the Liquor to the Bones and Trimmings, and boil it till the Pasty is ready,—then cover the Pasty with paste made like No. 5; ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow Oven; and before it is sent-to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some Pepper, Salt, half a gill of Port, the Juice of half a Lemon, and a little Flour and Butter to thicken it. rhe Mutton or Veal Pie—(No. 10). Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of the fat of a Loin, or best end of a Neck -Appendiz. | | PASTRY, &c. 443 of Mutton (the former the best), season them, and_ lay ‘them in ‘a pie-dish, with a little Water and half a gill of Mushroom Catchup. (chopped Onion and Potatoes, if ap-— proved); cover it with Paste (No. 2), bake it two hours ; when done, lift: up the crust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, and pour it into the Pie. Vreat Pie may be made ofthe brisket part of the ‘breast ; but must be parboiled first. Hare Pie—(No. 11). Take the Hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it for two minutes to cleanse it, wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot with six Eschalots chopped, a gill of Port Wine, a small quantity of Thyme, Savoury, sweet Marjoram, and Parsley, tied in a bunch, four Cloves, ‘and half a dozen Allspice; cover it with Veal Broth, and ‘ stew it till half done; pick out the prime pieces, such as the Back, Legs, &c. (leaving the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take the parts preserved, and fill them intoa dish with some water, and cover it with Paste as No. 2, bake it an hour, strain the gravy from the trimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, the Juice of half a Lemon, and pour it into the Pie boiling hot ;—line the bottom of the dish with Hare Stuff- ing (No. 379), or make it into Forcemeat Balls. ‘Pies or Game anp Witp Fow1 are made in like manner ; —and as the following receipt for Pzgeon Pie. Savoury Piers, Pastizs, anp Patrrizs—(No. 12). The piquance of Pies may be regulated ad libetum, by sprinkling the articles with Zest (No. 255), Curry- -Powder No. 455, and see Nos. 457 and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the Forcemeats enume- rated in Nos. 373:to 385, and making it into Balls; lay one ring of these, and another of hard-boiled Eg ges cut in halves, round the top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy. After the pies are baked, pour 444 3 PASTRY, &c. | Appendix. i” through a funnel any of the various Gravies, Sauces, Se. 3 Trafftes, Mushrooms, Wine, Spices, Pickles, &c. are also added. ‘See also Nos, 396 to 402. Mem.—tThese are dishes contrived rather to excite Ap- petite than to satisfy it. Putting Meat or Poultry into a Pie is certainly the very worst way of cooking it ;— it is _ often. baked to rags;——and very rarely indeed does a Savoury Pie come to table that deserves to be introduced to the Stomach. | Pigeon or Lark Pie—(No. 13). Truss half a dozen fine large Pigeons as for stewing, sea- son them with Pepper and Salt ; lay at the bottom ‘of the dish a Rump -Steak of about a pound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with a chopper; on it lay the Pigeons, the Yolks of three Eggs boiled hard, and a gill of Broth or Water, and over these a layer of Steaks, wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with Puff paste (No. 1), or the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with Yolk of Ege, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the Pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it is sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some good Gravy quite hot. Giblet Pie—(No. 14). Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of Goose Giblets; cut vhs Lee in two,—the Wing and Neck into three,— and the Gizzard into four pieces ; preserve’ the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the. pie with :— then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put them into a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No.2, rub it over with yolk of Ege, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven: in the mean- time take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim it free . from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew- -pan, thicken it a little with Flour and Butter, or Flour and Water, season it with Pepper and Salt, and the Juice of half a Lemon, add a few drops of browning, strain it through a fine sieve, | Appendix.) PASTRY, &c. 445 and when you take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of the dish a moderately thick Rump-Steak : — if you have any Cold Game or Poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the eat st Rump-Steak Pie—(No. 15). Cut three pounds of Rump-Steak (that has been kept tilltender) into pieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part which has not indisput- able pretensions to be eaten, and beat them with a chopper. Chop very fine half a dozen Eschalots, and add them to half an dunce of Pepper and Salt mixed, strew some of the mixture’ at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of Steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of Mushroom Catchup, and the same quantity of Gravy, or Red Wine; cover it as in the pre- ceding receipt, and bake it two hours. N. B. Large Oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alter- nately with the Steaks, — their liquor reduced and substi- tuted instead of the Catchup and Wine, will be a variety. Chicken Pie—(No. 16). Parboil and then cut up neatly two Young Chickens — dry them — set them over a slow fire for a few minutes + have ready some Veal Stuffing or Forcemeat (No. 374 or No.-375), lay it at the bottom “of the dish, and place in the Chickens upon it, and with it some pieces ‘of dressed Ham; cover it with Paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two hours, — when sent to table, add some good. Gravy, well seasoned, and. not too thick. Duck Piris made i in like manner, only substituting the Duck stuffing (No. 378), instead of the Veal. N.B. The above may be put into a raised French Crust (see No. 18) and Baked ; when done, take off the or and . put a ragotit of Sweetbread to the Chicken. Rabbit Pie— (No. BF): _ Made in the same way’; but make a Forcemeat to cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a quarter of a pound 446 FASTRY, &c. [ Appendiv.. : of boiled Bacon with ‘the Livers of the. Rabbits; some Pepper and Salt, some pounded Mace, some chopped Parsley, and an Eschalot, thoroughly beaten together ; and you may lay some thin slices of ready-dressed Ham or Bacon on the top of your Rabbits. ‘“ This Pie will ask Two hours baking,” says Mrs. Mary Tillinghast, in - page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of Rare Receipts, 1678. Raised French Pie—(No. 18). Make about two pounds of Flour into a Paste, as directed (No. 5);—knead it well, and into the shape of a Ball,— press your thumb into the centre, and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the most general), till about five inches high,—put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse Flour or Bran,—roll gut a covering for it about the same thickness as the sides,—cement its sides with the yolk of Egg,—cut the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb,—yolk of Egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy may direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the Flour or Bran, brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a Fricassee of Chicken, Rabbit, or any other Entrée most convenient. Send-it to table with a Napkin under. 3 Raised Ham Pie — (No. 19). Soak a small Ham four or five hours—wash and scrape it well—cut off the Knuckle, and boil it for half an hour— then take it up and trim it very neatly—take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with a pint of Madeira or Sherry, and enough Veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for two hours, or till three parts done—take it out and set it in a cold place—then raise a Crust as in the foregoing receipt, large enough to receive it—put in the Ham—and round it the Veal Forcemeat—cover and ornament—it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a slow oven: when done, take off the cover—glaze the top, and pour round the following: sauce, viz. take the liquor the Ham was stewed in—skim it free from Fat—thicken with a little | - Appendix. | PASTRY, &c. 44% “Flour.and Butter mixed together—a few drops of Brown- ing, and some Cayenne Pepper. P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small Ham, and has a good effect cold for a Supper. Veal and Ham Pie — (No. 20). Take two pounds of Veal Cutlet—cut them in middling- sized pieces—season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of Raw or Dressed Ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some Forced or Sausage Meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with some stewed Button Mushrooms, and the yolks of three Eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as with Rump-Steak Pie. N.B. The best end of a Neck is the fine part for a Pie, cut into chops, and the Chine Bone taken away. Raised Pork Pre —(No. 21). Make’ a raised crust, of a) good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5), about four inches high,—take the rind and Chine Bone from a Loin of Pork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your Pie; put on the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge, rub it over with yolk of egg, and bake it two hours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When done, pour in some good Gravy, with a little ready-mixed Mustard (if approved). N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an ex- cellent repast for a journey, and will keep for several days. © Eel Pie —(No. 22). Take Eels about half a pound each,—skin, wash, and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors,—cut them into pieces three inches long, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the Heads and Tails. Add a gill of water or Veal Broth, cover it with Paste (No. 2), rub it over with a Paste-Brush dipped in yolk of egg, ornament it with some of the same paste, bake it an hour, and when done, make a hole in the centre, and pour in the | ‘ 448 PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix, — following sauce through a funnel :—The trimmings boiled in half a pint of Veal Stock, seasoned with pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of Lemon-Juice, and thickened with flour and water, strained through a fine sieve—add it boiling hot. | Raised Lamb Pies — (No. 23). . Bone a Loin of Lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and lay them in the bottom of a stew- or frying-pan, with an ounce of Butter, a tea-spoonful of Lemon-Juice, and some pepper and salt : put them over a fire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five small Pies with Paste (as No. 6), about the size of a Tea-cup, put some Veal Forcemeat at the bottom, and the Cutlets upon it; roll out the top an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half an hour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some Good Brown Sauce. Beef-Steak Pudding -—(No. 24). Get Rump-Steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, stews, &c.; have ready an Onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise some’ Potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick, rub the inside of a Basin or an oval plain mould with Butter, sheet it with paste as directed for Boiled Puddings (No. 7); season the Steaks with pepper, salt, and a little grated Nut- - meg; put ina layer of Steak, then another of Potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing in part of the chopped Onion;—add to it half a gill of Mushroom Catchup, a table-spoonful of Lemon Pickle, and half a gill of Water or Veal Broth; roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in ; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up the Pudding ; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould. | q # Appendix.) PASTRY, &c. 449 . Vol au Vent — (No. 25), ' Roll off Tart Paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an —anch thick : then, with a Tin Cutter made for that purpose {about the size of the bottom of the dish you intend send- “ing to table), cut out the shape, and lay it on a baking- plate with paper, rub it over with yolk of egg; roll out good Puff Paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same Cutter, and lay it on the Tart Paste, then take a _ Cutter two sizes smaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the Puff Paste;—rub the top with yolk of Egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste inside the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and ‘when wanted, fill it with a White Fricassee of Chicken, Rabbit, Ragoit of Sweetbread, or any other Entrée you wish. Oyster Patties — (No. 26). Roll out Puff Paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten Patty Pans, put upon each a bit of bread the size of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put on the _ top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yolk of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a quarter j of an hour: when done, take a thin slice off the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread and the inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboit two dozen of Large Oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and cut them into four, put them into a stew- _ pan with an ounce of Butter rolled in F lour, half a gill of _good Cream, a little grated Lemon-peel, the ‘Oyster liquor, ' free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half, some _ Cayenne Pepper, Salt, and a tea-spoonful of Lémon-juice ; ’ stir it over a fire five minutes, and fill the Patties. Lobster Patties —(No. 27). Prepare the Patties as in the last receipt. Take a Hen Lobster already boiled—pick the meat from the Tai! and 450 “PASTRY, &c. ~ [Appendix — Claws, and chop it fine; put it into a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, — an ounce of fresh Butter, half a gill of Cream, and half a gill of Veal Consommé, Cayenne Pepper, and Salt, a tea-spoonful of Essence.of Anchovy, the same of Lemon- juice, and a table-spoonful of Flour and water: stew it five minutes. Veal and Ham Patives — (No. 28). Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean Veal, and three ounces of Ham very small, — put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of Butter rolled in flour, half a gill of Cream, half a gill of Veal Stock, a little grated Nutmeg and Lemon- peel, some Cayenne Pepper and Salt, a spoonful of Essence of Ham and Lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, taking care it does not burn. Chicken and Ham Patties —(No. 29). Use the White Meat from the Breast of Chickens. or Fowls, and proceed as in the last Receipt. Ripe Fruit Tarts —(No. 30). Gooseberries, Damsons, Morrello Cherries, Currants mixed with Raspberries, Plums, Green Gages, White Plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and washed. Lay them in the dish with the centre highest, and about a quarter of a pound of Moist or Loaf Sugar pounded to a quart of fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a little water—rub the edges of the dish with yolk of Ege—cover it with Tart Paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick—press your thumb round the rim, and close it well ; pare it round with a knife, make a hole in the sides below the rim,—bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes before it is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry.* Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry —(No. 3l). Beat up in a half-pint mug the White of two Eggs to a solid Froth ;—Jlay some on the middle of the Pie with a paste-brush,—-sift over plenty of pounded Sugar, and press Ir | Appendix. ] PASTRY, &c. ~ 454 it down with the hand, — wash out the brush, and splash by degrees with water till the Sugar is dissolved,—and put it in the oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. : Apple Pie — (No. 32). Take eight Russetings, or Lemon Pippin Apples,—pare, core, and cut not smaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into a pie-dish, with four Cloves ; rub together in a mortar some Lemon-Peel, with four ounces of good Moist Sugar, and, if agreeable, add some Quince Jam,—cover it with Puff Paste,—bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally eaten warm.) Apple Tart Creamed — (No. 33). Use green Codlings, in preference to any other Apple, and proceed as in the last Receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the Apple some rich boiled Custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light. colour. Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks — (No. 34). Roll out Puff Paste (No. 1) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a Crown piece, pare them round with a knife, and put a small quantity of Apricot, —Damson,—Raspberry,—Straw- berry,—Apple,—Marmalade,—or any other kind of Jam (No. 92), in the centre; take Paste (No. 7), and string them crossways, bake them from six to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light brown colour. French Tart of Preserved Fruit — (No. 35). Cover a Flat Dish, or Tourte Pan, with Tart Paste (No. 4), about an eighth of an inch thick, roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inch thick, cut it out in strips an inch wide, wet the Tart Paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of arim; fill the centre with Jam or Marma- lade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of Puff Paste, bake it half an hour, and send it to table cold. « . “ P 452 PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix, N.B. The above may be filled before the Puff Paste is laid on, neatly strung with Paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after. | Obs. —'The most general way of seks din Toutes to table, is with a Croquante of Paste (No. 86), or a Caramel of spun Sugar (No. 85), put over after it is baked. Small Puffs of Preserved Fruit — (No. 36). Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff Paste (No. 1), and cut it into pieces four inches square, lay @ small quantity of any kind of Jam on each,—double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, half moons,—lay them with paper on a baking- plate,—ice them (as at No. 31),—bake them about twenty minutes, taking care not to colour the icing. Cranberry Tart —(No. 37). Take Swedish, American, or Russian Cranberries, ‘pick and wash them in several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a Lemon, a quarter of a pound of Moist or pounded Loaf Sugar, to a quart of Cranberries, Cover it with Puff (No. 1) or Tart Paste (No. 4), and bake it three quarters of an hour; if Tart Paste is used, draw it from the oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it to the oven, and send it to table cold. Mince Pies —(No. 38), Sheet with Tart Paste (No. 4) half a dozen of tin pans of any size you please—fill them with Mince Meat (No. 39), and cover with Puff Paste, a quarter of an inch thick,—trim round the edges with a knife, make an aperture at the top with a fork, bake them ina moderate-heated oven, and send them to table hot, first removing the tin. N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over. Mince Meat —(No. 39). Two pounds of Beef Suet, picked and chopped fine ; two pounds of Apple, pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of Currants, washed and picked ; one pound of Raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good Moist Sugar; half Appendix] : PASTRY, &e. A53 a pound of Citron, cut into thin slices; one pound of Candied Lemon and Orange-Peel, cut as ditto ; two pounds of ready-dressed Roast Beef, free from skin and gristle, and. chopped fine; two Nutmegs, grated; one ounce of Salt; one of ground Ginger; half an ounce of Coriander Seeds; half an ounce of Allspice ; half an ounce of Cloves; all ground fine: the juice of six Lemons, and their rinds, grated; half a pint of Brandy, and a pint of sweet Wine.. Mix the Suet, Apple, Currants, Meat-Plums, and Sweet- meats, well together in a large pan, and strew in the Spice by: degrees: mix the Sugar, Lemon-Juice, Wine, and Brandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together—set it by in close-covered pans in a cold. place: when wanted, stir it up from the bottom, and add half a glass of Brandy to the quantity you require. | N.B. The same weight of Tripe is frequently substituted. for the Meat, and sometimes the yolks of Eggs boiled hard. . | Obs.—The lean side of a Buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generally chosen for Mince Meat. Cheesecakes — (No. 40). - Put two quarts of New Milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, and stir in two table-spoonsful of rennet: let it stand till it is set. This will take about an hour: break it well with your hand, and let it remain half an hour longer, then pour off the whey, and put the curd into a colander to. drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth, then add four ounces of Sugar, pounded and sifted; and three ounces of fresh Butter, oil it first by putting it in a little potting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together: beat the yolks of four Eggs in a basin, with a little Nutmeg grated, Lemon-Peel, and a glass of Brandy: add this to the curd, with two ounces of Currants, washed and picked —stir it all well together— have your tins ready lined with Puff Paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inch thick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bake them twenty minutes. When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a Mould of Curp anp Crean, by putting the curd. 454 PASTRY, &c. © [ Appendiz. in a Mould full of holes, instead of the colander; let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully on a dish, and pour over it half a pint of good Cream sweetened with Loaf Sugar—and a little Nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, will make excellent cheesecakes the next day. Lemon Cheesecakes — (No. 41). Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two Lemons, and mix them with three Sponge Biscuits, six ounces of Fresh Butter, four ounces of ‘sifted Sugar, a little grated Nutmeg and pounded Cinnamon, half a gill of Cream, and three Eggs well beaten, work them with the hand, and fill the pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with Puff Paste, and lay two or three slices of Candied Lemon-Peel, cut thin, upon the top. Orange Cheesecakes —(No. 42). To be made in the same way, ee the Lemons, and using Oranges instead. Almond Cheesecakes — (No. 438). Blanch six ounces of Sweet, and half an ounce of Bitter Almonds ; let them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound them very fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonstul of Rose or Orange Flour Water, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of Fresh Butter; set it m a warm place, and cream it very smooth with the. hand, and add it to the Almonds, with six ounces of sifted Loaf Sugar, a little grated Lemon- Peel, some good Cream, four Eogs; rub all well together with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with Puff Paste; fill in the mixture; ornament it with slices of Candied Lemon- Peel and Almonds split, and bake it halfan hour in a brisk oven. , Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste —(No. 44). Roll out Puff Paste (No. 1) half an inch thick; cut out with a cutter made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond, or any other form and Appendix. | PASTRY, &c. 455 to be got of most tinmen), observing to let the first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it to table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on a baking-plate — yolk of ege the top —and hake them of a light brown colour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size in the dish, then a layer of Apricot Jam; then the next size, a layer of Raspberry Jam, and so on, varying the Jam between each layer of Paste to the top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a Caramel (No. 85) of Sugar over it. Brunswick Tourte —(No. 45). Make a crust as for Vol au Vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoop eight or ten Golden Pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of Sweet Wine, and four ounces of sifted Loaf Sugar, a bit of Lemon-Peel, a small stick of Cinnamon, and a blade of Mace; stew them over a slow fire till the Apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in the Paste, and pour round them some ~ good Custard (No. 53). Blancmange—(No. 46). Boil for a few minutes a pint and half of New Milk, with an ounce of picked Isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind of ‘half a Lemon peeled very thin, a little Cinnamon, and a blade of Mace, and two and a half ounces of Lump Sugar; blanch and pound eight or ten Bitter, and halfan ounce of Sweet ‘Almonds’ very fine, with a spoonful of Rose Water, and mix them with the Milk; strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good Cream. Let it stand half an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom, and when ‘nearly cold fill it into moulds : when wanted, put your finger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre of a dish, and garnish with slices of Orange. N.B. About. half a gil of Noyeau may be substituted for the Almonds, 456 PASTRY, &e. [ Appendia. Orange Jelly — (No. 47). Boil in a pint of Water one ounce and a quarter of picked Isinglass, the rind of an Orange cut thin, a stick of Cinnamon, a few Corianders, and three ounces of Loaf- Sugar, till the Isinglass is dissolved, —then squeeze two Seville Oranges or Lemons, and enough China Oranges. to make a pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it” through a tamis or lawn sieve into a basin; set it in a cold 1 place for half an hour; pour it into piathie basin free — mould: when wanted, dip the mould into Jukewarm water; turn it out on a dish, and garnish with Orange or Lemon cut in slices, and placed round. N.B. A few grains of Saffron put in the water will add much to its appearance. Italian Cream — (No. 48). Rub on.a lump of Sugar’the rind of a Lemon, and ‘scrape it off with a knife into. a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of Brandy, two ounces and a half of sifted Sugar, the juice of a Lemon, and a pint of Double Cream, and beat.it up well with a clean whisk ;—in the meantime, boil an ounce of Isinglass in a gill of Water till quite dissolved ; strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, — and fill your mould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt. | _ N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, Raspberry, Strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared Cochineal, and named. to correspond with the flavour given. Trifle — (No. 49). Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted Sugar, the juice of a Lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of Brandy, and ditto of Lisbon or Sweet Wine, and a pint and a half of good Cream; whisk the whole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve, continue to whisk it till you haye enough of the whip, Appendix. | PASTRY, ker” 457 set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay ‘in a deep dish six or eight Sponge Biscuits, a quarter of a pound of Ratafia, two ounces of Jordan Almonds blanched and split, some grated Nutmeg and Lemon-Peel, Currant Jelly and Raspberry Jam, half a pint of Sweet Wine, and. a little Brandy ; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over about a. pint of Custard, made rather thicker than for Apple Pie—and, when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a few Nonpareil Comfits. Whip Syllabub — (No. 50). Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of Cream half a pint of Sweet Wine, a glass of Brandy, the juice of a Lemon, grated Nutmeg, six ounces of sifted Loaf Sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip. Chantilly Basket —(No. 51). Dip into Sugar boiled to a caramel (see No. 85) small Ratafias, stick them on a dish in what form you please, ’ then take Ratafias one size larger, and having dipped them into the Sugar, build them together till about four or five inches high; make a rim of York Drops or Drageas of Gum Paste, likewise a handful of Sugar or Ratafia, and set it over the basket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it is wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for Trifle, and upon that plenty of good Whip. ' Baked Custard — (No. 52). Boil in a pint of Milk a few Coriander Seeds, a little Cinnamon and Lemon-Peel, sweeten with four ounces of Loaf Sugar, and mix with it a pint of cold Milk, beat well eight Eges for ten minutes, and add the other ingredients, pour it from one pan into another six or eight times, strain it through a sieve, let it stand some time, skim off the froth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them imme- diately in a hot oven, to give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them. x 458 _PastRy, &c. [ Appendix, — Boiled Custard — (No. 53). 4 Boil in a pint of Milk, five mmutes, Lemon-Peel, Coris — anders, and Cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a — dozen of Bitter Almonds, blanched and pounded; and four — ounces of Loaf Sugar: mix it with a pint of Cream, the — yolks of ten Eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten, pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire — till it begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and con- — tinue to stir it till nearly cold, add two table-spoonsful of — Brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate Nutmeg over. Almond Custards — (No. 54). ’ Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of Rose Water, six ounces of Sweet; and half an ounce of Bitter Almonds, boil a pint of Milk as No. 52, sweeten it with two ounces and a half of Sugar,-rub the Almonds through a fine sieve, with a pint of Cream, strain the Milk to the yolks of eight Eggs, and the whites of three weil beaten,— stir it over a fire till it is of a good thickness, take it off the fire; and stir it till nearly cold, to prevent its curdling. ‘ N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puff paste put round. Twelfth Cake—(No. 55). Two pounds of sifted Flour, two pounds of sifted Loaf Sugar, two pounds of Butter, eighteen Eggs, four pounds of Currants, one half pound of Almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of Citron, one pound of Candied Orange and Lemon-Peel cut into thin slices, a large Nut- meg grated, half an ounce of ground Allspice; ground Cinnamon, Mace, Ginger, and Corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of Brandy. . Put the Butter into a stew-pan, in a warm. place, and work it into a smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the Sugar and Spice in a pan (or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the Eggs by degrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes ; —stir in the Brandy, and then the Flour, and work it a little; add the Fruit, Sweetmeats, and Almonds, and mix all together lightly,— Appendix. | PASTRY, &c. | ASD have ready a hoop cased with paper, on.a. baking-plate,— put in the mixture, smooth it on the top with your hand— dipped in milk—put the plate on another, with sawdust between, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much,— bake it in a slow oven* four hours or more, and wher nearly cold, ice it with No. 84. | This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inches over. ) Obs. —If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broke into a pan, and set into another filled with hot water; like- wise the fruit, sweetmeats, almonds, laid in a warm place; otherwise it may chill the butter, and cause the cake to be heavy. : | Bride, or Wedding Cake —(No. 56). The only difference usually made in these Cakes is, the addition of one pound of Raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit. * The goodness of a Cake or Biscuit depends much on its being well baked ; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat of the oven ; be sure to have it-of a good sound heat at first, when, after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as require a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in a well-heated or moderate oven, and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or cool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known. In making Butter Cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too’ much attention cannot be paid to have the Butter well creamed, for should it be made too warm, it would cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to bake, the Fruit, Sweetmeats, &c. would in that event fall to the bottom. Yeast Cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will prove but little afterwards. In making Biscuits and Cakes where Butter is not used, the dif. ferent utensils should be kept free from all kinds of Grease, or it is - next to impossible to have good ones. In buttering the insides of Cake-moulds, the butter should be nicely clarified, and when nearly: cold, laid on quite smooth, witha small brush kept for that purpose. > Sugar and Flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recom- mended for the Sugar. The old way of beating the yolks and whites of Eggs separate (except in very few cases) is not-only useless, but a ‘waste of time. ‘They should be well incorporated with the other in. | gredients, and in some instances they cannot be beat too much. 460 PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix. Plain Pound Cake —(No. 57). Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of Butter, and work it well together with one pound of sifted Sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and put them by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix in~ lightly one pound of Flour,—put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven. An ounce of Carraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed a Azch Seed Cake. Plum Pound Cake —(No. 58). Make a Cake as No. 57, and when you have beat it, mix in lightly half'a pound of Currants, two ounces of Orange, and two ounces of candied Lemon-Peel cut small, and half a Nutmeg grated. Common Seed Cake —(No. 59). Sift two and a half pounds of Flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon or Loaf Sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl,—make a cavity in the centre, and pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thick yeast,— mix the milk and yeast with enough flour to make it as thick as cream (this is called setting a sponge), set it by in a warm place for one hour,—in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh Butter, and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of Carraway Seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop with paper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it some time to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate about an hour, in rather a hot oven, — when done, rub the top over with a paste-brush dipped in milk. Rich Yeast Cake — (No. 60). Set a sponge as in the foregoing Receipt, with the same proportions of Flour, Sugar, Milk, “and Yeast,—when it has lain some time, mix it with three quarters of a pound of Appendix. | PASTRY, &e, 461 Butter oiled, one pound and a quarter of Currants, half a pound of candied Lemon and Orange-Peel cut fine, grated Nutmeg, ground Allspice and Cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each—case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it ina good-heated oven one hour and a half. N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a Twelfth Cake. Queen, or Heart Cakes —(No. 61). One pound of sifted Sugar, one pound of Butter, eight Eggs, one pound and a quarter of cashed. two ounces of Currants, and half a Nutmeg grated. Cream the Butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice, then put in half the eggs, and beat it ten minutes,—add the remainder of the eggs, and work it ten minutes longer,—stir in the flour lightly, and the currants afterwards,—then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and - bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, en a sheee of matted wire, or on a baking-plate,—when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans. Queen’s Drops — (No. 62). Leave out four ounces of Flour from the last Receipt, and add two ounces more of Currants, and two ounces of candied Peel cut small,—work it the same as in the last receipt, and when ready put the mixture into a Biscuit funnel,* and lay them out in drops about the size of half a crown, on white paper,—bake them in‘a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, take them from the paper. * Take fine Brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bot- tom, and tie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long ; and the bore must be large or small, according to the size of the Biscuits or Cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipe close to the paper, and press it out in rows. Some use a Bullock’s bladder for the purpose. 462 PASTRY, &c, Shrewsbury Cakes —(No. 63). Rub well together one pound of pounded Sugar, one pound of fresh Butter, and one pound and a half of sifted Flour,—mix it into a paste, with half a gill of milk or eream, and one egg,—let it lie half an hour, roll it out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about three inches over, and bake them on a Snr baking- plate, ina moderate’ oven. Banbury Cakes— (No. 64). Set a sponge with two table-spoonsful of thick Yeast, a gill of warm Milk, and a pound of Flour,—when it has worked a little, mix with it half a pound of Currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candied Orange and Lemon Peel cut small, one ounce of Spice, such as ground Cinnamon, Allspice, Ginger, and grated Nutmeg: mix the whole together with half a pound of Honey, roll out Puff Paste (No, 1) a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with a ctitter, about four inches over, lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close.it round with the fingers in the form of an oval ; “place the join under- neath; press it flat with the hand; sift sugar Over it, and bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour. . Bath Buns — (No. 65). Rub together with the hand one pound of fine Flour, and half a pound of Butter; beat six Eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. with a table-spoonful of good Yeast; mix them all together, with about half a tea-cupful of milk ; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in six ounces of sifted Sugar, and a few Carraway Seeds; mould them — mto Buns with a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate ; throw six or eight Carraway Comfits on each, and bake them’ tn a hot oven about ten minutes, ‘This quantity should make about eighteen. 4 | . ; Appendix. | _. PASTRY, &c. 463 Sponge Biscuits — (No. 66). ‘ Break into a round-bottomed Preserving-Pan* nine good-sized Eggs, with one pound of sifted Loaf Sugar, and some grated Lemon-Peel ; —set the pan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot to set the Eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, which may be a quarter of an hour,—then stir in the flour lightly with a spattle, previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows: — Wipe them well out with a clean cloth—vrub- the insides with a brush dipped in butter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over;—fill the frames with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five minutes in a. brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, i lay ‘them on a sieve. Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould — (No. 67), Take nme Eggs, their weight of Sugar, and six of Flour, some grated Lemon, or a few drops of Essence of . Lemon, and half a gill of Orange-flower Water,—work them as in the last receipt;—put in the orange-flower water when you take it from the fire;—be very careful the mould is quite dry;—rub it all over the inside with Butter,—put some pounded Sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get it out of the cre- vices : — tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in-a slack -Oven ; — when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould, which may be done by see it a little. Biscuit Drops — (No. 68). Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted Sugar, with eight Eggs for twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of Carraway Seeds, and one pound and a * A wide-mouthed Earthen Pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a fire, will be a good substitute, 464 - PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix. quarter of Flour: — lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate,— put the mixture into a biscuit funnel, and drop it out on — the paper about the size of half a crown; sift Sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven. Savoy Biscuits — (No. 69). | To be made as Drop Biscuits, omitting the carraways, and quarter of a pound of flour : — put it into the biscuit funnel, and lay it out about the length and ‘size of your finger, on common shop-paper ; —strew Sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven ; — when cold, wet the backs of the paper with a paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take them carefully off, and place them back to back. Italian Macaroons — (No. 70). Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan Almonds, blanched, — pound them quite fine with the whites of four Eggs; add two pounds and a half of sifted Loaf Sugar, aud rub them well. together with the pestle, — put in by degrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you put them in ;— but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is to bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two more whites ;— put the mixture into. a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out © on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having ready about two ounces of blanched and dry Almonds cut into. slips, — put three or four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a Baking-Plate, in a slow oven. . Obs.—Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days before they are used, by which means they will work much better, — and where large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a mill provided for that purpose. . ‘ Ratafia Cakes —(No. 71). To half a pound of blanched Bitter, and half a pound of — Sweet Almonds; put the Whites of four Eggs,—beat them Appendizx.[| - PASTRY, &c. 465 quite fine in a mortar, and stir in two pounds and a quarter of Loaf Sugar, pounded and sifted, — rub them well toge- ther with the whites (by degrees) of nine Eggs (try their lightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnel on cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake them in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them from the papers as soon as cold. N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles. Almond Sponge Cake—(No. 72). Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched Almonds - quite fine, with the Whites of three Eggs,—then put in one pound of sifted Loaf-Sugar, some grated Lemon-peel, and the Yolks of fifteen Eggs,—work them well together ; beat up to a solid froth the Whites of twelve Eggs, and stir them into the other Ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry Flour: — prepare a mould as at No. 67; put inthe mixture, and bake it an hour in a slow oven : — take it carefully from the mould, and set it on a sieve. Ratafia Cake — (No. 73). To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, and substituting a quarter of a pound of Bitter Almonds. Diet Bread Cake — (No. 74), Boil, in half a pint of Water, one pound and a half of Lump- Sugar, — have ready one pint of Eggs, three parts Yolks, in a pan, — pour in the Sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour, — then stir in two pounds of sifted Flour; case the insides of square tins with white paper; fill them three parts full; sift a little Sugar over, and bake it in a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds. x 2 466 , - PASTRY, &c. —— [Appendia~ Orange Gingerbread —(No. 75). . Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine Flour, and add to ita pound and three quarters of Treacle, six ounces of Candied Orange-peel cut small, three quarters of a pound of Moist Sugar, one ounce of ground Ginger, and one ounce of Allspice: — melt to an Oil three quarters of a pound of Butter,—mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours, — roll it out with as little Flour as possible, about half an inch thick ; cut it into pieces three mehes long and two. wide,— mark them in the form of eheckers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking- plate about a quarter of an inch apart, —-rub them over with a Brush dipped into the Yolk of an Egg beat up with 2 tea-cupful of Milk; bake it m a cool oven about a quar- ter of an hour; — when done, wash them slightly over again, — divide the pieces with a knife (as in paki they will run together). Eracshatel Nuts — (No. 76). -To two pounds of sifted Flour, put two pounds. of Treacle, three quarters of a pound of Moist Sugar, half a pound of Candied Orange-peel cut small, one ounce and a half of ground Ginger, one ounce of ground Carraways, and three quarters of a pound of Butter oiled : — mix all well together, and set it by some time,—then roll it out in pieces about the size of a small walnut,—lay them in rows on a baking-plate; press them flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes. Plain Buns — (No. 77). To four pounds of sifted Flour put one pound of good Moist Sugar,—make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good Yeast, a pint of lukewarm Milk, with enough of the Flour to make it the thickness of cream, — cover “it over, and let it lie two hours, — then melt to an oil (but not hot) one pound of Butter,—stir it into the other Ingre- dients, with enough warm Milk to make it a soft paste ; — throw a little Flour over, and let them lie an hour, — have -Appendix.] PASTRY, Ke. 467 ready a baking-platter rubbed over with Butter, — mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of a large egg, — lay them in rows full three inches apart ; set them in a warm place for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size, — bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with a brush dipped into Milk when drawn from the oven. Cross Buns — (No. 78). . To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground Allspice, Cinnamon, and Mace, mixed, —and when half proved, press the form of a cross with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and aa as above. Seed Buns — (No. 79). Take two pounds of plain Bun Dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce of Carraway Seeds, — butter the insides of small tart-pans,—mould the dough into buns, and put one in each pan, — set them to rise in a warm place, and when sufliciently proved, ice them with the White of an ‘Egg beat to a froth, and laid on with a paste-brush—some _ pounded Sugar upon that, and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush:—— bake them in a warm oven ‘about ten minutes. Plum Buns — (No. 80). £ To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of Currants, a quarter of a pound of Candied Orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a Nutmeg grated, half an ounce of mixed Spice, such as Allspice, Cinnamon, &c.:—mould them into Buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed as-with Plain Buns, No. 77. Orgeat — (No. 81). Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of Bitter Almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill of Orange-flower water to keep them from oiling,—then mix with them one pint of Rose and one pint of Spring-water,— rub it through a tamis cloth or-lawn sieve, till the Almonds 468 PASTRY, &C. T Appendix. are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart: — have ready three pints of Clarified Sugar or Water, and boil it to a crack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, and then into cold ‘water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your finger, it has boiled enough); put in the Almonds; boil it One minute, —and when cold put it into small bottles close corked, a table-spoonful of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water :—shake the bottle before using. Obs. —Ifthe Orgeat is for present use, the Almonds “may be pounded as above, and mixed with one quart of Water, one quart of Milk, a pint of Capillaire or Clarified Sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, and put into decanters for use. Baked Pears — (No. 82). Take twelve large baking Pears, — pare and cut them into halves, leaving on the stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of a knife, and place them close together in a: block-tin sauce-pan, the inside of which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close, — put to them the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of Cinnamon, and twenty grains of Allspice; cover them with spring-water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: — cover them up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow even :—they will be quite tender, and of a bright colour. Obs.—Prepared Cochineal is generally used for colouring the Pears; but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answer best. To Dry Apples — (No. 83). Take Biffins, or Orange or Lemon-Pippins,—the former are the best; choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on clean straw on a baking-wire, — cover them well with more straw; set them into a slow oven, —let them remain for four or five hours, — draw them out, and rub them in your hand, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burst the skins; —return them Appendix. | PASTRY, &C. 469 into the oven for about an hour; press them again,—when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a little clarified Sugar. Obs. — By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing them between each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as the dried Biffius from Norfolk. Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake—({No. 84). Take one pound of double-refined Sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve; — put into a pan quite free from grease,—break in the whites of six eggs, and as much powder Blue as will lie on a sixpence ; — beat it well with a spattle for ten minutes, then squeeze in the juice of a Lemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake you intend to Ice in an oven or warm place, five minutes,—then spread over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible; — if for a Wedding Cake only, plain ice it; if for a Twelfth Cake, ornament it with Gum Paste, or fancy articles of any description. Obs.—A good Twelfth Cake, not baked too much, and .kept in a cool dry place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if Twelve months old. To Bow Sugar to Caramel—(No. 85). Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined Sugar, put in a gill of spring-water ; — set it on a fire, when it boils skim it quite clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called Crack, which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, and let it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remains hard, it has attained that degree ; — squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it remain one minute longer on the fire, then set the pan into another of cold water ;—-have ready moulds of any shape,—rub them over with sweet oil, dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it over the mould in fine threads, till.it is quite covered ;— make a small handle of Caramel, or stick on two or three small Gum Paste rings, by way of ornament,. and place it over small pastry of any description.. 470 ae i KC. [ Appendix, A Croquante of Paste—(No. 86). Roll out Paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of anvinel } thick,—rub over a plain mould with a little fresh butter ;— lay on the Paste very even, and equally thin on both sides ;——pare it round the rim; then with a small pen- — knife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct,—such as diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &e.,—or use a small tin — cutter of any shape ; let it lie to: dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a light colour; —re- — move it from the mould, and place it over a Tart, or any other dish of small Pastry. Derby or Short Cakes—(No. 87). Rub in with the hand one pound of Butter into two ~ pounds of sifted Flour ; — put one pound of Currants, one ~ pound of good moist sugar, and one egg ; mix all together — with half a pint of milk, —roll it out thin, and cut them — into round Cakes with a Cutter ;—lay them on a clean | Baking-Plate, and put them into a middling- heated oven — for about five minutes. Egg and Ham Patties—(No. 88). Cut a slice of Bread two inches thick, from the most © solid part of a stale quartern loaf: —have ready a tin © round Cutter, two inches diameter, — cut out four or five © pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, press it nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife — the bread from the inner circle ;—have ready a large stew- pan full of boiling Lard; —fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a clean cloth, and set them — by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean Ham, © mince it small, add to it a gill of good brown Sauce ;— © stir it over the fire a few minutes, and put a small quan- ~ tity of Cayenne Pepper and Lemon-Juice ;—fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached Egg (see No. ane | upon each. Damson, or other Plum Cheese—(No. 89). ‘Take Damsons that have been preserved without sugar, — — Appendix. | PASTRY, &cs 471 pass them through a sieve, to take out the skins and stones, To every pound of Pulp of Fruit put half a pound of Loaf Sugar, broke small; boil them together till it becomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, rubbed with a little sweet oil,—put it into a warm place to dry, and when quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape you choose. N.B. Damson Cheese is generally used in Desserts. Barley Sugar—(No. 90). Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined Sugar, — boil it to the degree of cracked (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into'the Sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appears brittle, it-is boiled enough) ; Squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the Juice, and four drops of Essence of Lemon, and let it boil up once or twice, and set it by a few minutes: —have ready a marble slab, or smooth stone, rubbed over with Sweet Oil, —pour over ‘the Sugar, cut it into long stripes with a large pair of scis- sors, — twist it a little, and’ when cold, keep it from a air in-tin boxes or canisters. N.B. A few drops of Essence of Ginger, ited of Lemon, will make what is called Ginger Barley Sugar. Barley Sugar Drops—(No. 91), To be made as the last Receipt. Have ready, by the time the Sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of Paper, with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it;—put the boiled Sugar into a ladle that has a fine lip;—pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to the sifted sugar ; when Sai fold them up Separately in white paper. N.B. Some use an oiled. marble slab instead of the sifted Sugar. Raspberry Jam—(No. 92). Rub fresh-gathered Raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wicker sieve, — to one pint of the pulp put one pound of Loaf Sugar, broke small ;—put it into a pre- serving-pan over a brisk fre, = whan it begins to boil, AT2 PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix... skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes ;— put into small pots,—cut white paper to the size of the top of the pot,— dip them in Brandy, and put them over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot. - SrrawBerry Jam is made the same way, and thé Scarlets are most proper for that purpose. Apricot, or any Plum Jam—(No, 938). After taking away the stones from the Apricots, and cutting out any blemishes they may have,—put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half a pint of water ;—when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve :— to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf sugar,—put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and throw in the kernels of the Apricots, and half an ounce of bitter Almonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it all the time ;—remove it from the fire, and fill it into Pots, and cover them as at No. 92. N.B. Green Gages or Plums may be done in the same way, omitting the Kernels or Almonds. Lemon Chips—(No. 94). Take large smooth-rinded Malaga Lemons;—race or cut off their peel into Chips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do it properly); throw them into salt and water till next day,—have ready a pan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain them well :—after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified Sugar to cover them, and then let them lie two days ;— then strain the Syrup, put more Sugar, and reduce it by boiling till the Syrup is quite thick,—put in the Chips, and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days y—repeat it once more, let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy, which must be done as follows :—take four pints of clarified Sugar, which will be sufficient for six pounds of Chips, — boil it to the degree of blown (which may be known by dip- -ping the skimmer into the Sugar, and blowing strongly Appendix. | PASTRY, &c. AT3 through the holes of it; if little bladders appear, it has attained that degree) ; and when the Chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the Syrup, stirring them about with the skimmer till you see the Sugar become white;—then take them out with two forks, shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into a stove, or in a warm place to dry. N.B. Orange Chips are done in the same way. Dried Cherries—(No. 95). Take large Kentish Cherries, not too ripe,— pick off the stalks, and take out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen :—to three pounds of which, take three pounds or pints of clarified Sugar—(see No. 475), boil it to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in the Cherries, — give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the next day, when strain the Syrup,— add more Sugar, and boil it of a good consistence ; — put the Cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and set them by another day :—repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted, drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or nearly cold oven. Green Gages Preserved in Syrup—(No. 96). Take the Gages when nearly ripe, cut the stalks about half an inch from the fruit, — put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the size of a walnut ;— set them on a slow fire till they come to simmer. — Take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; — drain, and pack them close into a preserving-pan, pour over them enough clarified Sugar to cover them,—sim- mer them two or three minutes;—-set them by in an earthen pan till next day, when drain the Gages, and_ boil the Syrup with more Sugar, till quite thick, — put in the Gages, and simmer them three minutes more, and repeat it for two days,—when boil clarified Sugar to a blow, as at No. 94, place the Gages into glasses, and pour the Syrup over, and when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; and should you want any for 474 PASTRY, &c. [ Appendix. | drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a stove or slow oven. Apricots or Egg Plums may be Janel in the same way. To Preserve Ginger—(No. 97). - Take green Ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife, — throw it into a pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white,—when you have sufficient, boil it till tender, chang- ing the water three times; each time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the ginger,—when tender, throw it into cold water ;—-for seven pounds of Ginger, clarify eight pounds of Refined Sugar, see No. 475; when cold, drain the Ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the Sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days, —then pour the Syrup from the Ginger to the re- mainder of the Sugar; boil it some time, and when cold, pour it on the Ginger again, and set it by three days at least. Then take the Syrup from the Ginger, —boil it, and put it hot over the Ginger ;—proceed in this way till you find the Sugar has entered the Ginger, boiling the Syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each time, until the Syrup becomes rich as well as the Ginger. __ Obs. —-If you put the Syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the Ginger will shrink, and not take the Sugar. - N.B. When green Ginger is not to be procured, take large races of Jamaica Ginger boiled several times in water till tender,—pare neatly, and proceed as above. To Preserve Cucumbers—(No. 98). Take large and fresh-gathered Cucumbers, — split them down and take out all the Seeds, lay them in salt and water that will bear an Egg three days; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of Alum, and boil them a few minutes, or till tender ;—-drain them, and pour on them a thin ‘Syrup ;—-let them lie two days, boil the Syrup again, and put it over the Cucumbers, repeat it twice more, then have ready some fresh-clarified Sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the Cucumbers, and simmer it five minutes ;—set it by till next day ;—boil the Appendiz.| BREAD. ATS ‘Syrup and Cucumbers again, and set them in glasses for ase. Preserved Fruit, without Sugar--(No. 99). Take Damsons when not too ripe ;—pick off the stalks, and put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care. not to put im any but what are whole, and without. ble- mish ;——shake them well down (otherwise the bottles will not be half full when done);—stop .the bottles with new soft corks, not too tight ;—set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or five hours;—the slower they are done the better ; when they begin to shrink in the bot- tles, it is a sure sign that the Fruit is thoroughly warm :— take them out, and before they are cold drive in the corks quite tight ;—set them in a bottle-rack or basket with the mouth downwards, and they will keep good several years. Green Goaseberries, Morrello Cherries, Currants, Green Gages, or Bullace, may be done the same way. _ Obs.—If the Corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasion for cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary. BREAD—(No. 100). Put a quartern of Flour into a large Basin, with two tea-spoonsful of Salt,—make a hole in the middle, — then ‘put in a Basin four table-spoonsful of good Yeast; stir in a pint of Milk lukewarm; put it in the hole of the Flour; stir it just to make. it of a thin Batter; then strew a little Flour over the top, —then set it on one side of the fire, and cover it over; let it stand till the next morning,—then make it into dough ;—add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, and then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half,—then knead it again, and it is ready either for Loaves or Bricks: — bake them from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the $1Ze. French Bread and Rolls — (No. 100*). . Take a pint and a half of Milk; make it quite warm ; half a pint of Small-Beer Yeast; add sufficient Flour to . 476 BREAD. . [ Appendix. — make it as thick as Batter; put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen as high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm Water, and half an — ounce of Salt,— mix them well together, —rub into a little Flour twa ounces of Butter; then make your Dough, not quite so stiff as for your Bread ; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready to make into Rolls, &c. :—let them stand till they have risen, and bake them in a quick oven. SaLtty Lunn.—Tea Cakes — (No. 101). Take one pint of Milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick Smail-Beer Yeast; put them into a pan with Flour sufficient to make it as thick as Batter, — cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen as high as it will, 2. e. about two hours: add two ounces of Lump Sugar, dis- solved in a quarter of a pint of warm Milk,* a quarter of a pound of Butter rubbed into your Flour very fine,—then make your Dough the same as for French Rolls, &c. ; — let it stand half an hour; then make up your Cakes, and put them on tins: — when they have stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. Care should be taken never to put your Yeast to Water or Mik too hot, or too cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation: In Slush wien it should be lukewarm, — in Winter a little warmer,—and in very cold weather, warmer still. When it has first risen, if you are not pre- pared, it will not hurt to stand an hour. Muffins — (No. 102). Take one pint of Milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick Small-Beer Yeast, — strain them into a pan, and add sufficient Flour to make it like a Batter, — cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen,— then add a quarter of a pint of warm Milk, and one ounce of Butter rubbed in some Flour quite fine,—mix them * If you do not mind the expense, the Cake will be much lighter if, instead of the Milk, you put four Eggs. MA ee Appendix. | BREAD» 477 well together, — then add sufficient Flour to make it into Dough, — cover it over, and let it stand half an hour, — then work it up again, and break it into small pieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of an hour ;—then bake them. Crumpets — (No. 103). The same: instead of making the mixture into Dough, add only sufficient Flour to make a thick Batter,—and when it has stood a quarter of an hour it will be ready to bake. Muffins and Crumpets bake best on a Stove with an Iron Plate fixed on the top; but they will also bake in a Frying-pan, taking care the fire is not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned. Yorkshire Cakes —(No. 104). . Take a pint and a half of Milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick Small-Beer Yeast; mix them well together in a pan with sufficient Flour to make a thick Batter, — let it stand in a warm place covered over until it has risen as high as it wili, —rub six ounces of Butter into some Flour till it is quite fine,—then break three Eggs into your pan with the Flour and Butter; mix them well toge- ther, — then add sufficient Flour to make it into a Dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour, then work it up again, and break it into pieces about the size of an egg, or larger, as you may fancy,-——roll them round and smooth with your hand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a light piece of flannel. *.* The six last Recerpts were written by Mr. TuRNER, Bread and Biscuit Baker, corner of London and Frtzroy Street, Fitzroy Square. | © 478 [ Asjpendil: | OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES. Tue quality of the various Articles employed in the coms position of Puddings and Pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactly according to the same receipt, will be so different* one would hardly suppose they were made by the same person,—and certainly not with pre-_ eisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same Ingre- dients. Flour fresh ground— pure New Milk — Fresh- laid Eggs — Fresh Butter—- Fresh Suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when kept till each article is half spoiled. Plum Puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool Ble in the cloth they are boiled in, will heep good some months ; when wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into “a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through — they are ready. Mem. — In composing these Receipts, the quantities of Ecos, Burrer, &c. are considerably less than are ordered in other Cookery Books ; but quite sufficient for the pur- pose of making the puddings light and wholesome, —we * have diminished the Expense, without impoverishing the preparations; and the Rational Epicure will be as well pleased with them—as the Rational Economist. : MILK, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of Cream it will throw up,—depending on the material with which the Cow is fed. The Cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most Cream, which varies fifteen or twenty per cent; this may be imme- diately and accurately ascertained by the Lactometer, sold. by Jones, Mathematical Instrument Maker, Charing Cross, price 2s. ‘6d. In London, the Miik is not only subject to these yaria- * An old Gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on Puddings, — told us it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good—till she made the following Rule—‘‘if the Pudding was good, — she let the Cook have the remainder of it —if it was not, she gave it — to her Lap-Dog ;”? but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-Wow seldom got the sweet treat after. | Appendix. | PUDDINGS AND PIES. rg tions; but is generally not only skimmed, — but thinned with "Shy -blue (water) from the Tron-tailed Cow (the pump). London Cream, we are told, is sometimes adulterated with Milk, thickened with Potatoe-starch, and tinged with Turmeric : — this accounts for the Cockneys, on making an expedition into the country, being so extremely sur- he to find the thickest part of the Cream — at the op! Eces vary considerably in size; in the following Re- ceipts we mean the full-sized Hen’s Egg ;—if you have only Pullet’s Eggs, use two for one. Break Eggs one by one into a Basin, and not all into the bow! together; because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest:—strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles. _ N.B. To preserve Eges for twelve months, see N.B. to - No. 547. Snow—and Smartt Breer—have been recom- mended by some Economists as admirable substitutes for Eggs :—they will no more answer this purpose than as substitutes for Sugar or Brandy. Friour, according to that champion against adultera= tion, Mr. ‘Accum, varies in quality as much as any thing. . Burrer also varies much in quality. Salt Butter may be washed from the Salt, and then it will make very good Pastry. Larp varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchase it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain. that it be sweet and eood. Surr. Beef is the best—then Mutton and Veal:— when this is used’ in very hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little Flour. Brrr-Marrow is excellent for most of the purposes. for which Suet is employed. Darrppines, especially from Beef, when very clean and nice, are frequently used for Kitchen Crusts and Pies, and for such purposes are a satisfactory substitute for Butter, Lard, &c. To clean and preserve Drippings, see No. 83. Curran TS, previous to putting them into the Pudding, should be plumped : this is done by pouring some boilmg ¥ 480 PUDDINGS AND PIES. [ Appendix. water upon them : — wash them well, and then lay them — on a sieve or cloth before the fire, — pick them clean from the stones ;— this not only makes them look better, but cleanses iho from all dirt. Raisins, Fics, Drirp CHERRIES, Ganuite Oni nas AND gk PEEL, Crrron, anp Preserves of all kinds, FresH Rea Gooseberries, Currants, Plums, i Damsons, &c. are added to Batter and Suet Puddings, or enclosed in the Crust ordered for Apple Dumplings, and make all the various Puddings called by those names. Barrer Puppines must be quite smooth and free from Jumps; to insure this, first mix the Flour with a little Milk — add the remainder by degreegy—and then the other ingredients. If it is a plain Pudding, put it through a hair-sieve — this will take out all lumps effectually. Barrer Puppines should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter it first—if baked, also butter the Pan. Be sure the water boils before you putin the Pudding — set your stew-pan on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the time—if set upon the fire, the Pudding often burns. Be scrupulously careful that your Budde Cloth is per- fectly sweet and clean; wash it without any Soap—unless very greasy—-then rince it thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it in Boiling Water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with Flour. If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the Puddings every now and then, to keep them from sticking to the ‘bottom of the sauce-pan ; if in a Mould, this cave is not so much required, but keep plenty of water in the sauce-pan, When Puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a Basin of cold water, before you untie the Pudding-Cloth, as that will prevent it from sticking; but - when Fetled in a Mould, if it is well buttered, they will. turn out without. . Custard or. Bread Puddings require to ‘stand five minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled in a Mould or Cups. ' Keep your Paste-board, Rolling-pin, Cutters, and Tins very clean—the least dust on the Tins and Cutters, or the RR a % dpeendie) PUDDINGS AND PIES. -seast hard Paste on the Rolling-pin, will spoil the whole oi your labour. : ie | Things used for Pastry or Cakes should not be duediten: 7 any other purpose ; be very careful that your Flour is driéd at the fire before you use it, for Puff Paste or Cakes; if damp it will make them heavy. | In using Butter for Puff Paste, you should take the greatest care to previously work it wellon the Paste-board or Slab, to get out all the water and butter-milk, which very often remains in;— when you have worked it well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and itis _then ready to lay on your Paste ; do not make your Paste “ee over stiff beforé you put in your Butter. For those who do not understand making Puff Paste, it is by far the best way to work the Butter in at two separate times—divide it in half—and break the half in little bits, _ and cover your Paste all over; dredge it lightly with Flour—then fold it over each side and ends, roll it out quite thin, and then put in the rest of the Butter—fold it, and roll it again. Remember always to roll Puff = Paste from you. The best-made Paste, if not prope a baked, will not do the Cook any credit. | Those who use Jron Ovens do not always succeed in. baking Puff Paste, Fruit Pies, &c.—Puff Paste is often — spoiled by baking it after’ Fruit Pies, in an iron oven. | This may be easily avoided, by putting two or three bricks __ that are quite even into the oven betore. it is first set to © get hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling — out of the Pies—but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and house—and almost answer the same — purpose as a brick oven. College Puddings—(No. 105). . Beat four Eggs, yolks and whites togetlieli in a quart basin, with two ounces of Flour, half a Nutmeg, a little Ginger, and three ounces of Sugar—pounded Loaf Sugar — is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; then add six | ounces of Suet, chopped fine, six of Currants, well washed and picked ; mix it all well together—a class of Brandy or White Wine will improve it. These Puddings _ ¥ PUDDINGS. AND PIES: [ Appendix. Oe ‘generally fried in Butter or Lard; but they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes. will bake them :—if fried, fry them. till they are of a nice light brown, and when fried, roll them in a little _ Flour. You may add one ounce of Orange or Citron; _ minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more Egg, or two spoonsful of Milk. Serve them up with ie White- Wine Sauce. o pe: ‘ Rice Puddings Baked, or Boiled—({No. 106). __ Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of pee Rice, put it in a quart stew-pan three parts filled with gold water, set it on the fire, let it boi™five minutes— -. pour away the water, and put in one quart of Milk, a roll of Lemon-Peel, and a bit of Cinnamon ; let it boil : gently till the Rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and a quarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in an ounce and a half of Fresh Butter, ‘and. beat up three Eggs on a 2 hee plate, a salt-spoonful of Nutmeg, two ounces of Sugar; put it into the Pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth— line a pie-dish big enough to hold it with Puff Paste, ‘notch it round the edge, | put uP your Pudding, and bake. it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firm - Pudding. If you like at to eat_more like Custard, add one more” _ Ege, and half-a-pint more milk; it will be better a little . thinner when boiled; one hour will boil it. If -you like it in little Puddings, butter small tea-cups, and either bake or boil them—half an hour will do either: you may vary the Pudding by putting.in Candied Lemon or Orange- Peel, minced very fine—or dried Cherries, — or three ounces of Currants—or Raisins,—or Apples minced fine. ie If the Puddings are baked or boiled, serve them ‘with es sesh teniatbe Sauce, or Butter and Sugar. Ground Rice Pudding—(No, 107). ce Put four ounces of ground Rice into.a stew-pan, and _. by degrees stir in a pint “and a half of Milk; set at on ‘the - fire, with a roll of Lemon and a bit of Pre pensivite keep: es | - PUDDINGS AND PIEs. 483 -stirring it till it boils—beat’ it to a smooth Batter—thén “set it on the trivet, where’ it will simmer gently for a hg. sae heen of an hour;—then beat three. Eggs: on a plate, stir them into the Pudding with two ‘ounces of Sugar -and :two: drachms of Nutmee—take out the Lemon-Peel _and Cinnamon—stir it all well together, line a pie-dish with thin Puff paste (No. 1 of Receipts for Pastry), big enough to hold it, or Butter the Dish well, and bake. it half an hour —if boiled, it will: take one hour in a mould well buttered—three ounces of Currants may be added; Rice Snow Bails — (No. 108). ied Wash and pick half a pound of Rice very ete put it onina sauce-pan with plenty of water ; when it boils let “It boil ten minutes, drain it on a sieve till it. is. quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. Divide the Rice into six parcels, in separate cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour, “serve it with Sugar and ‘Batter; or wine sauce, . Race Blancmange — (No. 109). Put a tea-cupful of whole Rice into the least water possible, till it almost bursts; then add half a pint of good Milk or thin Cream, and boil it till it is. quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on the fire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry it, put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it will cone easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten with cream or custard, and preserved fruits raspberries are best. It should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm: ; This Blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with Spices, Lemon- Peel, &c., and sweetened with a little Loaf _ Sugar, add it with the Milk, and take out the sin tite | before you put in the mould. * Save-all Pudding — (No. 110). Put any*scraps of Bread into a clean sauce-pan,—to about a pound, put a pint of Milk; set it on the trivet till it boils, beat it up quite smooth, then break in three Eggs, 484 PUDDINGS AND PIES. [ Appendiz. three ounces of Sugar, with a little Nutmeg, Ginger, or Allspice, and stir it.all well together. Butter a Dish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready two ounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of _ the pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour; four. ounces of Currants will make it much better. | Batter Pudding, Baked or Bowled —(No. 111). - Break three Eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie _ on a sixpence, beat them well together, and then add four ounces of Flour—beat it into a smooth Batter, and by degrees add half a pint of Milk: have your sauce-pan ~ ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put the pudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter. Or put it in a dish that — you have well buttered, and bake it three quarters of an © hour. Currants washed and picked clean, or Razsins stoned, are good in this pudding, and it is then called a Black Cap: or, add Loaf Sugar, and a little Nutmeg and Ginger without the fruit, it is very good that way,—serve it with Wine sauce. Apple Pudding Boiled —(No. 112). Chop four ounces of Beef Suet very fine, or two ounces ef Butter, Lard, or Dripping—but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it on the paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of a heap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it well together with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will make it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times with the rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of Apples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, than when boiled © in a pudding-cloth well floured; boil it an hour and three -quarters,—but the surest way is to stew the apples first in, 2 stew-pan, with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some people like it flavoured with Appendix. | PUDDINGS AND PIES. 485 ‘Cloves and Lemon-Peel, and sweeten it with two ounces of Sugar. - GoosEBERRIES, CuRRANTS, RASPBERRIES, and CHER- RIES, Damsons, AND VARIOUS PLUMS AND FRuITs, are made into Puddings with the same Crust directed for APPLE PuppDINGs. | _ Apple Dumplings — (No. 113). . Make Paste the same as for Apple Pudding, divide it into as many pieces as you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out your paste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tie them in pudding-cloths very tight,—one hour will boil them,—and when you take them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn out without breaking. Suet Pudding or Dumplings — (No. 114). © Chop six ounces of Suet very fine,—put it in a basin with six ounces of Flour, two ounces of Bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of Salt,—stir it all well together ;— beat two eggs on a plate, add to them six table-spoonsful of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir it all well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them sepa- rate, previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour. . This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above will make a good pudding, boiled in an earthen- ware mould, with the addition of one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it two hours. : . N.B. The most Economical way of making Suet Dump- lings, is to boil them without a cloth in a pot with Beef or Mutton,—no Eggs are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour before you put them into the pot; add six ounces of Currants, washed _ and picked, and you have Currant Pudding,—or divided into six parts, Currant Dumplings,—a little sugar will improve them. ASG PUDDINGS AND PIES; [Appendix bacco Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake —(No. 115). -Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of Potatoes; beat. them up into.a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of Milk, two ounces of moist is and two or three beaten Eggs. Bake it about three quarters of an hour, Three ouncés of Currants or Raisins may be added. _. : Leave out the Milk, and add three ounces of Butter, it, will ate a very nice Cake. | Appendix. dt A487 ‘OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. .. We are not fond of Prcxirs,—these sponges of Vinegar are often very Indigestible, especially in the crisp state im which they are most admired, The Inpian Fasniow. of pounding Pickles 2s an excellent one.—We recommend. ose who have any regard for their Stomach, yet still wish to indulge their Tongue,-—instead of eating Pickles, which _ are really merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of Vinegar and Spice, &c. to use the Flavoured Vinegars, — such as Burnet (No. 399), Horseradish (No. 399*), Tar- ragon (No. 396), Ment (No. 397), Cress (Nos. 397*, 401, 403, 405*, 453, 457), &c.; by combinations of these, a relish may easily be composed, exactly in harmony ‘with the palate of the eater. . Lhe Pickle made to preserve Cucumbers, &c. is generally. so strongly impregnated with Garlic, Mustard, and Spice, &c. that the original flavour of the Vegetables is quite: overpowered ; and if the eater shuts his eyes, his Lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is munch- ing an Onion or a Cucumber, &c., and nothing can be -more absurd, than to pickle Plums, Peaches, Apricots, Currants, Grapes, &e. » The Strongest Vinegar must be used for Pickling : it must not be boiled (or the strength of the Vinegar and Spices will be evaporated). By parboiling the Pickles’in brine, they will be ready in much less time than they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in cold salt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine, let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the Pickle. To assist the preservation of Pickles, a portion of Salt is added, and for the same purpose, and to give flavour,— Long Pepper, — Black Pepper, — Allspice, — Ginger, — Cloves,— Mace,—Gailic,—Eschalots,— Mustard ee ee radish,—and Capsicum, The following is the best method of preparing the Pickle; as cheap as any, and requires less care than any other way.: Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above Spices ;— 488 PICKLES. [ Appendix. put them into a stone jar with a quart of the strongest Vinegar, stop the jar closely with a bung,—cover that with a bladder soaked with Pickle, set it on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up at least three times in the day, the pickle should be at least three inches above the Pickles. The Jar being well closed, and the infusion being made with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation. To enable the articles pickled more easily and speudity to imbibe the flavour of the Pickle they are immersed in, pre- viously to pouring it on them —run a larding-pin through them in several places. _ The Spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in the Receipt for pickling Walnuts, which is also an excel- lent Savoury Sauce for cold meats. The flavour ray be varied ad infinitum by adding Celery, Cress-Seed, or Curry Powder (No. 455), or by taking for the Liquor any of the flavoured Vinegars, &c. we have enumerated above, and see the receipts between Nos. 395 and 421. Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed Earthenware, or Glass Jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them, observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefully stopped with well- fitting bungs, and tied over as closely as possible with a bladder wetted with the Pickle; and if to be preserved a long time, after that is dry, it must be dipped in Bottle- Cement, see page 127. When the Pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little fresh spice. To Walnut Liquor may be added a few Anchovies and Eschalots; let it stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish your table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for Hashes, Made Dishes, Fish, &c. at very small cost, see No. 439. Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles pickled, which should be covered with Pickle at least two inches above their surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, that are not covered, are soon spoiled. Appendiz. | _ PICKLES. | 489° - When they have been done about a week, open the Jars, and fill them up with Pickle. Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with. If you wish to have Gherkins, &c. very Green, this may be easily accomplished by keeping them in Vinegar, sufi ciently hot, till they become so. If you wish Cauliflowers, Onions, &o. to be White, use. distilled Vinegar for them. To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the Acid upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare Pickles, the whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed Stone Jars. | N. B. The maxim of “‘ Open your Mouth, and shut 1 your Eyes,” cannot be better applied than to Pickles; and the only direction we have to record for the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith,—“ If their colour does not please you, send ’em to Hammersmith, — that’s the way to Turnham Green.” Commencing the list with Waxtnuts, I must take this opportunity of impressing the necessity. of being strictly particular in watching the due season; for of all the, _ variety of articles in this department to furnish the well- regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, — for fre- quently after the first week that Walnuts come in season, | they become hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one: therefore let the prudent housekeeper con- sider it indispensably necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at market ; — should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the disappoint-, ment of finding, six months hence, when you go to your pickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your Chops, &c. to find the nuts incased ina shell, which defies both teeth and steel: I therefore recommend you to look for Wai wuts from the twelfth of July ; that being, I may say, the earliest possible time. Nasturtivums are to be had by the middle of July. Gartic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. Escuatots, ditto. x 2 490 . PICKLES. [ Appendi#. . Ontons, the various ‘kinds for pickling, are to be had se the middle of July, and for a month after. Guerxrns are to be had by the middle of July, wha for a month after. Cucumbers are to-be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. Me.ons and Mancoss are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. Capsicums, green, red, and.yellow, the end of Judy} and following month. | Curiiss, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*, and No. 406. Love Appxes, or Tomatas, end of July, and through- out August. See No. 443. CavuLiFLow_ER, for pickling, July and August. ARTICHOKES, for pickling, July and August. "JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, for pickling, July elt August, and for three months after. Rapisu Pops, for pickling, July. Frencu Beans, for pickling, July. - Musirooms, for pickling ‘and prise © September. See No. 439. ~ Rep CasBaGeE, Aucust. ‘ WHITE Cazzacn, September and October. - SAMPHIRE , August. Honsenabien, November and December. Watnouts — (No. 116). ' Make a brine of Salt and Water, in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of Salt to a quart of Water— put the Walnuts into this to soak fora week —or 2f you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating— run a larding-Pin through them in half a dozen places — this will allow the Pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated : — put them into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer—put them on a sieve to drain—then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black—this may take a Appendix. ] PICKLES, 491. couple of days put them into Glass, or unglazed Stone’ Jars — fill these about three parts with the peters ane, ai them up with the following Pickle. 3 To each quart of the strongest Vinegar put two ounces: of Black Pepper, one of Ginger, same of Eschalots, same of Salt, halfan ounce of Allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jars > cover it with a bladder, wetted with the pickle —tie over that some leather, and set the Jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the Walnuts, and cover them down | with Bladder wetted with the Pickle, leather, &c. GueErRKins =(No. 117), - Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude half-grown little Gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. — Put them into (unglazed) Stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover them down; set them on the hearth before the fire for two or three days till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them with hot Vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till they become Green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the Vinegar,—having ready to cover them a — Pickle of fresh Vinegar, &c., the same as directed in the ‘preceding receipt for Walnuts (leaving out the Eschalots) ; cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the Observations on Pickles, p. 487. it Obs. — The Vinegar the Gherkins were greened in will make excellent Satap Saucr—or for Cold Meats.—lIt is, ‘in fact, superlative Cucumber Vinegar. _.Frencu Beanws—Nasturtivums, &c.—(No. 118), ~ When young,—and most other small green Vegetables, may be pickled the same way as Gherkins. Brrr Roots — (No. 119), - Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an hour and a half to two anda half); then 492 PICKLES. [ Appendix. take them out, and when a little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch thick. Have ready. a pickle for it, made by adding to each quart of Vinegar. an ounce of ground Black Pepper, half an ounce of Ginger pounded, same of Salt, and of Horseradish cut in thin slices ; and you may warm it, if you like, with a few Cap- sicums, or a little Cayenne ;—put these ingredients into a Jar; stop it close, and let them steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire—then, when cold, pour the clear liquor on the rnieeC which have previously ar- ranged in a jar. _ Rep Caspace — (No. 120). Get a fine purple Cabbage—take off the outside leaves— quarter it — take out the stalk—shred the leaves into a colander — sprinkle them with salt — let them remain till the morrow — drain them dry — put them into a Jar, and: cover them with the pickle ordered for Beet Roots. Ontons —.(No. 121). The small round silver button Onions, about as big a as & Nutmeg, make a very nice Pickle.—Take off their top: coats, — have ready a stew-pan, three parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many Onions as will cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately - take them up with a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot _ Pickle, made by infusing an ounce of Horseradish, same of Allspice, and same of Black Pepper, and same of Salt, in a quart of best White-Wine Vinegar, in a stone jar, on. a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, keeping it well closed; — when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather. CAULIFLOWERS OR Broccori—(No. 122). Choose those’ that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe — cut away the leaves and stalks. Set ona stew-pan half full of water, salted. in propor- Appendix. | PICKLES. _ 493 tion of a quarter of a pound of Salt toa quart: of water — throw in the cauliflower —let it heat gradually, when it boils take it up with a spoon full of holes, and spread them | on a cloth to dry before the fire, for twenty-four hours at. least — when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs—and cover them with the pickle we: have directed for Beet Roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the Curry Powder (No. 455) for three days i in a quart of Vinegar by the side of the fire. Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above. Iypian orn Mixep Picxtr—Manco or PiccaLitti— (No. 123). The flavouring ingredients of Inp1aw PIcKLESs are a: compound of Curry Powder, with a large proportion of Mustard ‘and Garlic. The following will be found something like the real Mango Pickle, especially if the Garlic be used plentifully.. To each gallon of the strongest Vinegar put four ounces of Curry Powder (No. 455), same of Flour of Mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of Salad Oil);. three of. Ginger bruised, and two of Turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of Eschalots (slightly baked in a Dutch oven), two ounces of Garlic, prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of Salt, and two drachms of’ Cayenne Pepper. Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times a day — it will then be ready to receive *Gherkins — sliced Cucumbers — sliced Onions — Button Onions — Cauliflowers—Celery—Broccoli—French Beans—Nastur-' tiums — Capsicums, and small green Melons. The latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow- spoon, with which take out all the seeds — then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry thém, and: fill them with Mustard-Seed, and two Cloves of Garlic, and bind the Melon round with packthread. _. Large Cucumbers may be prepared in like manner. 494 FICKLES. [| Appendia, — ..-Green Peaches make the best imitation of the Indian Mango. » . The other articles are to be separately parboiled (ex- 1 -cepting the Capsicums) in a brine of Salt and Waterstrong enough to bear an egg—taken out and drained—and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun—on a stove-—or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into the Pickle. . | Any thing may be put mto this Pickle, except Red Cabbage and. Walnuts. It will keep several years. .. Obs. —To tut Inpian Maweoo Pickus is added a considerable quantity of Mustard-Seed Oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our Salad Sauces. — INDEX. ‘The Figures in the body: of the Index refer‘to the Number'of the Receipts; those _ im the column under the word PAGE, to whére the Receipts are to be found ; and, those Wrecated by Ap. to the Receipts in the Appendix. PAGE Acip of SER artificial, 407* mS . oot Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 . . 341 An alderman in chains, 57. . 164 A-la-mode beef, or veal, or . English turtle, 502. . . 381 Allspice, essence of, 412 . 335 . tincture of, 413 . 336 _ Sir H. Sloane on, MOR 0. % .- 109 Albion House, Aldersgate- street, note. . - 271 Almond custards (Ap. 54). 458 Anchovy sauce, 270 . . 284 ; essence, 433. . 341 toast,573 . . . 433 — butter,) , paste, J 434- - 343 powder, 435 . . 344 to keep them well, Obs. to SI i oe Se . 284 Apicius, his sauce for boiled ~ chicken . . 29 Appetite, good, why the best - Sauce. .- . to refresh . cA a ae il y a trois cei i they his art of preserving : vegetables, note . . » 201 Apple pie (Ap. 32). >.<.» A04 +— pudding, b boiled (Ap. 119) |. . 484 > dumplings, ditto to(AD. ~ 113) <=; sauce, 304.” able, vee ) io gah Hall, N.B. $2, Apples, to dry (Ap. 83) . Apricot jam ( Ap. 93) Artichokes, 136 . . » ote —_—__—__—_—. Jerusalem, 117 195 Asparagus, ie hogs eee ______ soup, 222... 250 Arrack, to ay 480 . 364 Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, — Preface, page ix. ‘ Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 7 | Bacon, 13. OPIS | slices of, 526 . . 396 relishing rashers of, O21 4 weak 6 ate 397 sparerib, to roast, 53 160 Bain-Marie, note to 485 & Meo bles ke eh 398 | Baking : 79 Baked custard (Ap. 52) « . 457 pears (Ap.82) . . 468 Barley-water, 565 . . . 429 broth, 204 . . . 241 to make ae 5 lon fora groat. . . » 255 ——— sugar (Ap. 90) . ~ 471 drops (Ap. 91) .. « . ib. Basil, when to dry 355 vinegar, or wine, 397 328 sauce, 264... .« 283 Batter pudding (Ap. 111) . 484 Beans, French, 133 . . . 200 Beauty . . A 5Y Bechamel, 13 igiehg . 313 Beef bouilli, 5, 238, 493, 132, 257, 376 ——. how nutritive and eco-. ~pomical, Bb am ine, ave men scsi 60 salt, 6 6. 3. en ta, ae sme SAVOUFY, 496,» 378 496 INDEX. PAGE Beef, a round of, salted, to boil, 7 oh aikkcl waiotniias saa itil Abia what the outside slices ‘are good for, N.B. to ‘ . 137 H-Bone, 8 . ae ribs, and rolled, 9. . 138 baron of. . . 28 sirloin roasted, 19. - 146 - proper way to carve, in note'tol9 .:. .~. 150 as mock hare, 66* . . 172 —— ribs roasted,20 . . 150 ditto boned and rolled, a1. : ib. steak pudding (Ap.24) 448 season for, see note to 4a kj tien Rigen eure Oe with onions, 86 . . 18r to broil, 94... . . 185 the superlative, steak ib. Macbeth’s receipt, and le véritable bif-teck de Beauvilliers, N.B. to 94. 186 to stew, 500 . 380 —— with onion gravy, 501 381 broth, 185... °. . 234 broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, Bs abs wie) Sel cee cate ee ——egravy, 186 . . . . 235 strong gravy, 188. . 236 — cullis, 189 . . $a ke for poultry, &e. 329 - 303 ‘ ——— shin of, soup, 193. . 237 — tea, b63 0 oath to. hash 496 os eae ——- shin stewed, 493 . . 376 —— brisket stewed, 494 . 378 haricot, 495 . . . ib. Hunter’s savoury, baked or stewed, 496. . . . ib. a.la-mode, or English turtle, 502 . . . . . 381 —.to pot,503 . . . . 383 —— bubble and squeak, and the tune of, 505 . . . 387 ~—- hashed, and _ bones broiled, 506 she ee BOE steaks, to ‘fry, 85 . _ 181 PAGE Beef, cold, broiled, &c. 487 372 Beer, to recover when hard, : ABB: ne is dee 5 9 Ae eee ‘ nen to bottle; 468.45 S3-abs cup, 464 . .°. . 358° Beet roots, 127 .-. ot. d99 to Pickle Sees 419) 8 or oy Mk Biscuit drops (Ap. 68) . - 463 Bishop, essence of, 412. . 335 Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 7 BOG Black cdek. Jol 0. aster ees tee Blancmange (Ap. 46) . . 455 Boitine . pee pl Boiled custard (Ap. 53). - 458 Bouillon de santé, 196 . . 239 Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 . . . . 306 Brandy, how to obtain gen- uine Cognac . 36F BreaD, to make (Ap. 100) 475 sauce, DAL is. iasanmeweed sippets fried, 319 . 298 ——_. crumbs, do. 320 . 299 pudding, 556 . . 421 Broccoli, 126. . . 198 - pickled (Ap. 122) . 492 Bride, or mpedding cake (Ap. 56°. ° doug, a) OO Brill, 143%. - 206 Brains are sadly dependent on bowels... y Dr. Cadogan’ 3 obs. thereon, note . . . . 9 Brain: ballas oy 272. . 324 BROILING, see the 4th chap. of Rudiments of Cookery 94 Brose, Scotch, 205* . . . 244 Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45) 455 Broru, see the 7th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 104 black) <0/.46 9s) cet O of fragments . . 56 ——— beef, 185 -... . 234 to clarify, 252% . 276 mutton, 194 . . 238 mock ditto, 195 . 239 erent With cutlets, 490 . 375 INDEX... PAGE Broth, Scotch barley, 204 . 241 ——~—- for sick, 564. . . 428 Browning, -to colour soup ~ and sauce, &c. 322 . . 300 Bill of fare fora week . . 58 Buns, plain(Ap.77) . . cross (Ap. 78 - -. 467 seed (Ap. 79 : ——_— plum (Ap. 80 2? ab. Bath (Ap. 65 - 462 Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 . 329 sauce, 264 . 283 Buargoo, Scotch, 572"... , 432 Butler’s directions for dry- ing herbs, 461... . 304 to mar- ket for vegetables. . . 438 Butler, Obs. on the business FOr We, UOtetre sy: POM La rgd Butter,’ best manner of meting +. +s +. « - 279 Cube ‘=< Peo. eto! -<--abs clarified, 259 burnt, 260... -..-ib. oiled, 260* e ° ib. F CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cook- ery for, 158, 224 . 217, 251 Cabbage, 118. . . . . 195 boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119, QOS pet se. ditto ditto, tune Of 505.0 25%, 65 2*337 Cakes, common seed (Ap. DO) ss - . 460 rich yeast, (Ap. 60) ib. queen, or heart (Ap. 61). wake 461 ——-- Shrewsbury (Ap. 63) me --—— Banbury (Ap. 64) . ——-- Savoy, or sponge PAD. GT he fy ie, pin), o% 463 --——. Ratafia(Ap. 71) . 464 ——-- almond ipvee (Ap. 72j 465 ee diet bread (Ap. 74) ib. 196, 387- 497 PA Cakes, Derby, or short (Ap. 8 - 470- =~ Yorkshire (Ap. 104) 477 Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247. . 260- *s head to boil, 10. . 138 to hash,10 . 139 ragout, 520. 393° mock turtle, 247 266-- feet jelly, 48]. . . 364 Camp vinegar, 403. . . 331. Carp stewed, 158. . . . 216- Carrots, . 129 4 ove +0 £99 soup, 212 . Carving, best rule for - ancient terms of, - note . ‘ AL. Cat-sup of mushrooms, 439 345 - double ditto, or. ddg-sup) 6 sso 0 0 BAB of walnuts, 438 ..344. of oysters, 441 . 347° of cockles, 442 . 348 — of cucumbers, 399 329 pudding, 446 . . 348 Cina sauce, 274... . . 285 mock, 375. .' 4.2 iB. Capon to roast, 58 « «© 165- Capillaire, 476 othe rey 0) See Caramel, to boil — to, (Ap. 85) . na - » 469 Cauliflower, 125 . . - 198- eta (Ap. - 42 122) . . 492. Caudle, 572. of Saige NE habe, Cautions to carvers . . 41. Cayenne, how to make, 404 331 essence of, 405 . . 332. Celery soup, 214... . . 245 sauce, 289,290 9. . seed, substitute for ce- T6ry, NOtE, ye 0-3 ne 5 ee essence, 409 . « 335 - Chantilly basket (Ap. 51). 457 Cheap soup, 229 . . « 253. Cheese and Toast, 538*, 539 404 toasted, 540 . . . 4085. seem buttered ditto, 541 . 406 —— pounded or potted, 542 ib. 498° INDEX. PAGE JED: PAGE Cheesecakes (Ap. 40) . 453, | Colouring, a frequent cause’ .~ lemon ditto (Ap. of adulteration, 322. . 301. a) oat ai ty . 454. | Committee of taste -. . . 3 orange do. (Ap. 42) ib.. |} Consommé, 252 +. . . . 272 ~<___—.. almond do. (Ap.43) ib. | Coffee, to make . « 416 Cherries, dried (Ap. 95) . . 473. | Cooks, friendly advice to « 45 Chervil sauce, 264. ..........283. hints £639 "seth -. 04. Chili vinegar, 405* - 333. ditto, when they have niles —-= wine, 4060 20... .- ib. avery.largedinner . .. 66. Chicken.. See Fowl. , . cause of the scarcity of... pie (Ap. 16) . . « 445 00d ONES.) 5 dw 8 He 378 ——_-~ and ham patties(Ap. —— deserve good wages . 12 29)... . 450 | —— a manor given to one... .... Chops, mutton, pork, heef, “ by William the Conqueror 10 st0 broil, 94.0450 6: . 185 | —— Obs. concerning their —— to fry, BS. oom we 281. |. Maealth, note’. Isr 2s 16 —— to stew, 490.. .. . » 375 Cookateaser, where not. to nes ~<—— relish for, A235: << « d06 put him 2 » 43 sauce for, 356 . .... 310 Cooking animals, dine only if Cinnamon, essence of, 416 . 336 once a month, note. « « 4 tincture-of, 416* sincere Cookery, Descarte’s obsers Claret, best wine for sauces... (vations on. 6 YBEe. : oe we LIQ | new Dr. Johnson's ditto - & Clarified syrup, 475 » » ~~ B62.{ ——— theory of, note .. . ib. Clarify broth, to, 252* ..... 276. — importance OF 6 oe Clove .and Lees essence of, —— Dr. Stark. . .. .. vii. Ald... : - 336. | ~——~ the analeptic mt Po i ei tincture of, physic\. 7.2. z 4 7 ae » » ib | — — Dr. Mandeville. - ix. Cockle Catchup, 442, - a 848 Arbuthnot . .. ~. ib, Cod, boiled,.149 .. - 210 Parmentier . . » Zii- the tail filleted, note Sylvester’s Obs. — su under’ 149 28 oe QO note. « 8 -—. slices boiled,.151 212 best books. on, note ib. —— skull stewed, 158 . © 216 theory of the pro-. .... —— shaved, and sold for cesses of, from the Ency- _whitings, Obs. to 153. . 213 cloped. Brit, note.» « abs Cold meat, to broil with opinion of a cook on poached eggs, 487 . . . 372 books of 0) se 6) 24 +.— do..to warm, the best . Coquus Magnus, or Master... _ way. BAe Rok ae i ear Kitchener . ‘ 10 Gah: oe i ie — or thickened ; gravy, bie sauce for, 453, 359, EBS. 0: PENG elt ens tk) ‘and 307 . : 350, 311, 296 Coup -@apres fa oie decal veal, an excellent dish Crab,.to boil, 177.. a vedg28 of, 512. wide « » 390 Craw-fish soup, 235 . . ...256 fowl, ditto, 533. . . 401. | ———— do. pounded alive, —.. Colouring for soup and sauce, vecsnicaneied by. Mons. DDD ss wie i ay tg aw Sp BBO Clermont, 235 «2. --- ibe INDEX. 499, go2 PAGE ; : PAGE Coals, what kind produce Dripping soup.» » « % 255. the greatest heat . . .. 84 | Duck,toroast,6l1 . ~. . 168. Cream, clouted, 388 . . . 325 Cranberry tart (Ap. BI) + >~ 452 Croquante of paste (Ap. 86) 470. Cottage potato ae (Ap. 115 Crisp parsley, 318. : Currant-jelly, 479* . . Curry-powder, 455 . » soup, 249 . * —— ‘sauce, 348 . . « wt halls BE. 29 iy +— to dress, 497 . . Curagoa, how to make, 474. 361 bia Custard-pudding . . . ~ 412 Cyder-cup, 465 . . ..~+ 338 Culinary Curiosities . ... 25 Cianbui B2G8 6 Bie ae QF Cnblows.). 06-0 is sw 2 Gb. Cat-in-gely et tse 28 Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1. Cement for sealing bottles » ib. Cow-heel, to dress, 18* . 5 Cress-sauce, 264 . . . ~ 283 | vinegar, 397" =. » Cucumber stewed, 135 . . 202 vinegar, 399 . to preserve (Ap.. BO DBE) Blok ac aa, Carp, tostew, 158 . . Charity, the greatest. . . 14 Crumpets (Ap. 103) ~~ ~ 477 Dew, B38 ~ 2 6. 6 nw ANB set venison . « . «25 saucedor .-....+ » 310 $3. Biscuit; apts" 6 Dallaway’ s. Servant’s Moni- tor.quoted. . . .- - 49 Damson. cheese (Ap. 89): ~ 470 Digestion, how important oS Digester, note 2.0 2) 62272 Dripping-pan.... - 85 Dripping, to slarify, 83. - + 179 Mrs. Melroe and » Dr. Stark’s-Obs. on, 83 . ib. bonne. bouche for, 341. 306 - to hash, 530... . .-399. —~ cold, to warm, 535. . 402 wild, to.roast, 74 . ..1795. Dutch salad, Obs. t0.372.. . 316 Dinner, seven chances against its being hn dressed, mote ... » Il — . hints. for preparing See large, pp-.66, 67,—a good... one for 5d.204. 4. » 241 invitation to. . » «30. importance of punctua. .... ..- lity, the only act which. ~ . cannot be postponed . ~ 31 arrangement of guests... eee ware ye eee | rules for behaviour at, . from .the .Accomplished.. Ladies’ Delight, note ... 20 hints for providing .- 32 + nee Obs. on second OB El “ene —&e. : .~ 33 a punishment: : fae not nial _ being punctual at. . + 37 Boileaun’s Obs. on . + 38 <— Hints to those whodine.. .-- OUL. . Tk ea Oe eee Edge-bone .of beef, see H- howe, Bois fei ws GY Olas ways of spelling, ‘ib. © Education of a cook’s tongue 53 Eels, stewed Wiggy’s way, LOB: ot Us is me” pg itnee ane —— pickled, 161 . a! a BED fried, 165. . 222 pie (Ap. 22) . ~ + 447 Spitchcocked, 166 . . 222 Ops 2250: oe BR Eggs, to preserve for twelve. months, see N.B. to 547 . 414 sauce, 267 6) es.) ) < 2S fried with bacon, 545. -412 ragoiit, 545% 2. dhe ——-. with minced bacon, 549.415 500 Eggs poached, 546 . —— ditto, with minced ham, 548. 3 bolled:it in the shell; 547 ——. ditto for a salad, 372 2 ——~ various ways of dress. ing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88) . . : Epictetus, a relish ‘fot, 27 Eschalot sauce, 294 . wine, 402. . Essence of turtle, 343 of ham, 351 . where to buy it, 351 ——. of mushrooms, 440 . ; of oysters, 441 ——— of anchovy, 433 . . of Cayenne, 405 . lemon-peel, 407 « ditto, 408 . . of celery, 409 - ginger, 411 . allspice, 412. . clove, 414 . ——— mace, 414. cinnamon, 416 . . marjoram, 417 . . sweet herbs, 417* . soup herbs, 420 . eschalot, 402 . soup herbs and sa- voury spice, 422 Epicure, the editor’s defini- tion of, note . the temperate man vinegar, AO} S85 Gite. INDEX. PAGE to - 413 | Fish, to stew, 158. . . © —— soups, 225 . . . . 414 — forcemeat, 383 . . . ib. sauce, 425... - : . 316 to pickle, 161 oat Forcemeat, to make, 373. materials used for 470 for veal, 375. - 152 for turkey, 377 - 292 for goose, 378 . . 330 for hare, 379 . . ib. balls, for mock turtle 307 and made dishes, 380. . 309 egg ditto, 381. . . ib. curry ditto, 382. . 347 — zest, &c. 386. . . ib. of fish for maigre 341 dishes, 383. 2° 55 0). 332 to mix orange and 333 lemon-peel, 387. . .- 334 <} Flip, 466%. 6 20s ois) e) Gan as 335 | Flounders, 155... . ib. | Fowls, to boil one half and ib. roast the other at the same 336 time . a aes ibs | —— to boil, 16 oe ay ib. to roast, 58 . - f° 337 | ——.to broil, 97 6s . ib. | hashed, 533. 2 ib. | +. pulled; 534.342 é 330 | —— to dress cold, 535. . é ie Apicius’s sauce for °. 338 | French beans, 133... . ————___— pickled (Ap. 4 118) Ae Ce tart of preserved fruit 6 CAD. 35 bia’ ms the greatest . : Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 64 Fawn, 65 - 170 Fennel and butter for mack. erel, 265 . - 283 Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery sb cold, to re-dress fecundity of, note . "aor —— how to market for... 437 bread and rolls (Ap. TOO") 20:5 Rae Froth roast meat, to. . . Frogges, fried 0. eh soe Fare, bill of, fora week. . Frying... , . Flavour, agents étipliyed to soups aud ig note under... Flounders, fried or boiled, LOB 6 oy OD pears Fritters, SSB" oe isi ees 214 421 ‘Fruit, to preserve, without ‘sagar (Ap. 99))s 2 «... Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting . . —— Soup, 242. . ‘Garlic vinegar, 400 . sauce, 272 - . gravy, 311 Giblets, stewed, 531 - soup, 244 pie (Ap..14) “Gherkins (Ap. 117) . e bos @-0, 0 8 #2 INDEX. PAGER 475 ‘Gigot de Sept agai N.B. . tal... * Ginger, essence of, dah preserved (Ap. 97). Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 7 the Goose, Dr. Stark says is t most nutritive food . —— toroast, 59... - fettetey Gilt ALVE bie yes. ey ss himself!!. .. . . ; how the liver is fat tened for the Strasburg pies. Innoteto59 . . —— to hash, 530... .. green, 60 . .. - mock, 51 . . a bonne bouche for, 341 relish for, 341 . . Gourds, various ways of dressing . . GOURMAND defined, note * Gourmandise, to oie against, note . Gooseberry sauce, 263 : Gravy, read the 8th chap- ter of the Rudiments of Cookery .. . ‘ for poultry, ragoits, &c., 329 . .- ponjon, 299... .... garlic, 311... game, 337. «Ce for wild duck, 338. ——- roasted meat, 326 . to persuade onetoroast — boiled, 327. . . « 30° a —_— SOL PAGE Gravy, wow-wow for salted. or stewed beef, 328 . . for grills and hyoila, es ee earn ae for chops and steaks, SOO wien Hiage so ‘ relish for chops and Steaks, 423% oi) 4, 6k piping : for cold meat, or poultry, &c., 359. . . hashes of mutton, &c., 360 . . . oy oy db. ditto veal, 361 «, «313 for venison, of wine, DIA Pe a's 0h 4 RL OS 5 eS of vinegar, 345... ib. for venison, of cur- rant-jelly, 346. . . .. ib. of mutton, 347 . .~ ib. brown colouring for, DAD: oe vec. of eh TK Foes oa O portable, 252 . . 272 soup, 200... :.,...240 vegetable ditto, 224 251 Green pease, 154. . . . 201 soup, 216.) 3). 2486 maigre ditto, 217. . ib. Green gages, preserved in | syrup (Ap. 96). ..... 4973 Grill sauce, 355 . . . 309 Grouse, 735-4) 0 po ea ees Gruel, water, various ways of making and meg BIS aes ete eee gL Guinea-fowl, 69* . oa eet Pe Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery . 8 Gridiron. A jo. 6 Fy GS Haddock, 157... «3 ) eBIS Findhorn do., 157* . ib. Haggies, a good Scotch, 488* 373 Ham, to. boily.14. ys Be to pot, 509 . . . . 389 —— slices of broiled, 526 . 396 essence of, 351 .. .. '. 309 where to buy do., 351 ib. Hare, roast, 66. . ... 170 juggeds 529% 6. jens BOB: 303 309 310 338 311 502 Bae ainod 4° ache soup, 241 ).. 6 <4’. 262 Soe. mock, BE ie Faas ARTZ : hashed, GO coe BOF pie (Ap. Lh) < soe 5243 Haricot of mutton, lamb, ... veal, or beef, 489. .. . . 374 . of beef, 495 na tee Hashes, mutton, 484. . . 370 —— to warm up, 485... 371 —— beef, 486 ovale te: te a, Weal lB. ae ——~ venison, 528. 4% ——. cold calf’s head, 519. ny HIEGOS EO GOs. SF bs ete COLE'S head, or ragout, CRE. Ysa Gg RO harey S29 ie? Lot we BOF duck. or goose, 530. » 399 —— poultry, game, or rab- .-. bits AB: 0 eo ae we OD sauce for, 360. .. . . 31} Haunch (see H.) bone -of beef, 8 . . é denkenberg Herbs, Heeb and how: a dry, 461 .. 2 frei g VOB ne: pickled, LP 2 4-224 broiled, 171* . .. 225 « red ditto, FZ BS 226 Horseradish powder, 458* . 353 vinegar, 399* . . 329 Housekeeping, plan of .. > 17 OOK a Ls - 18 oo w ae Horse powdered « . - 28 Hill, Dr.,. author of. Mire. Glasse’ sCookery . . 8 -Hanger, Col., quoted, his . hints for guarding against “¢ la Gourmandise,”’ note. 12 Hudson, the dwarf, served tpin.a pie...» <0. DF Ne Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ao. 3) ~ 450 = for ‘twelfth-cake (Ap. ; BAI ca a bs Sef Sd eR ong Indigestion oA iia Pa es BB Y lozenges for, note. ib. Ketan -TEMCAY f0K 0 we B4 INDEX. gaia eS PAGE Inve how to send . 36 ~toanswer 2) 2 83ST dean: or mixed pickle (Ap. 123). e ° e vt - 493° ‘Independence, the road to . ° 68 Italian.salad, see Obs. to 372-316: : cream (Ap. 48)". ° . 456° macaroons (Ap. 70) -464 Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips’s,. 488 os oe SS I mt —— Do.,. Mr. Morrison’ me 488... (Lc bbe pale Ohta Jack, to dress, 158.» 6 Jacks, Obs. on = - «'. . 81 Jelly, ox-heel, 198 =~ «=. 239 calf’s feet, 481. . . 364 of currants, and other ©’ ' fruits, 479* oo. - 363° Jerusalem ariighokes: 117 « 195: Jockey; how to waste « 231° Jounson’s brandy and lis ~~ queurs, 472 if) Goh BEL Jounson, Dr., quoted. .~-8 Kay, Mr.,-of Albion-House,; wines, &c.; Obs. to 94.186 turtle, &c., note. . 271 KELLY’s sauce for calf-head or Sethe: SELL be OF. ditto ‘for sauce pi- =! Baaiee BEE. 20) Seyi: Kid to roast, 65* . . . 2-170 Kidneys to broil, 95... 187 Kitchen-maid, business of a ‘15 _ Kitchen fire-place, best or- naments for. « 68 chimney should ve swept often... . 56 ideniille tos 0h 304 Kitchiner, nse “5 aire cng: aha B7O...) sc yee 22 Lirr, THE ART or Invi- - GORATING AND. PRO« ~~ LONGING, by the author= ~~ —__—— soup, 237 ari ae 2. potted, 178. on . INDEX. ‘ 503° pt oe Nad ; PAGS. 1) ska of this work, published by Lobster, patties (Ap. 27). G. B. Whittaker, . Ave. . sem, Salad, B72 6 ou co BIG: Maria Lane. . . « viii spawn. to Rene eee Lacedamon, black broth of --29 N.B..t0.284 «. 6 (em a 283: ditto sauce . ib. > 4 Lamb, to broil, 3. . . ~ 131 Mfacaroni,.642 Lciais 1h2 encase ee _ to roast, Mii. Sea i 156 soup, see Obs..to 2.) | —— sham lamb ditto,40 . 157 |. 200. one Q4E —— hind quarter, 41 “it i Mackerel, boiled, 167 « ve 223 ‘———— fore quarter, 42. . ib.» ee broiled, 169 % »~ 224 imo —~ logy AS; 6 a8 4 -we-e 158 | -2—-——., baked, 170+... iib. —— shoulder, 44 arab. pickled, ed ens to goosefy ditto, note : roe sauce, 266 .. 283 to5l « - © . « & ~« 159 '{ Made dishes, Obs. om. See. ; ebetine TUS, 45 1S e's, 158 9th chapter of, Rudiments. i, loi 46. 4%. - «- 4b. ‘of.Cookery. . Paere 1: — neck, 47... 6 -« ib. “economical do., 483. 366 —— breast, 48 . - ib. | Magazine of Taste ... ..336 —— chops, 93. - 183 | Marere Coorrery. See °. —— shoulder grilled, 49k - 375 | © Prefacetotheseventh edit. xviii + lamb’s fry, 492. . 376 .forcemeat, 383. -..... 324 ‘Larders, proper, note 60 .plum pudding, 554. 419 Larks, 80 . . - « 177 | Mandeville, Dr., geri, Lemon-chips (Ap. 94) 472 Preface; i; 25% a seem ——_.—. syrup, 391 .. «)~ 326 | Manners, the importance of sauce, 273. . « 285 good. . « AT juice, artificial, 407* 334 Marjoram, e: essence of, 417 . 337 Lemon.and liver sauce, 287. 289 | Marrow bones, 544 . . ..412 ‘peel essence, 407 . 333 | Meat, soup from.any boiled. 75. - quintessence de: 408 334 Melroe, Mrs. , her Economi-., oe tincture do., 408* . ib. cal Cookery, 9h opt note Lemonade in a minute, to.83. .. . wi - 179 AFT bis’ meshes . 362 | Melted butter .. 2.4) -.279- Liquamen of the Romans - 29 | Minced collops . -.« « 373 Liqueurs, 471... +. « 361.)| Mince pies (Ap. 38). « + 452- Lister, Mrs., leg of beef meat (Ap. 39)». «ib... soup.’ See shin of beef Mint sauce, 303. - « + 294 soup. vinegar, 398 « «.. 329 Liver of a goose. See note Mock turtle soup, 247 .. . 266. under 59 . < . 166 do. do. by E. Lasse ys sae! —— and parsley sauce, 287 289 245. - 265 — ditto for fish, 288 . 290 | Mille feuilles (Ap. ‘44) - + 464 Lobster, to roast, 82. . . 178 | Moor game, 72. .-« «, +195 ———— to boil, 196 . - « 228 | Morels, Obs. on . 113 . sauce, 284. 288 Mulled wine, coon POG renin ——_—— sauce for lobster, - gence for, 412.5. 6064 3 BBB QRS en drre a 289 |. Mustard, to make, 370°... BLS” to: 369 . @ * me e Oo gem where to buy, N,Bw.... re “ sth 504 PAGE Mustard, to make in a mi. nute, 369 ° e ‘ee ° 315 —— do. to keep, 427. . 339 seed oil.» . .« - . 494 Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century . .- 21 good effects of good 41 bad effects of bad. . ib. Measures, glass ones. . . 23 Meat, ‘how long it must - hang tobe tender. . .- 59 ——.if-frozen . . ib. —— killing it by electricity makes it tender imme- diately | Sli.) EO Marketing . . - 64 best rule for. oben Eb. GIt60 8 ells Bi 58 MarkETING ater on for meat. . : - + 434 ~ poultry eet ee 436 fish yup 437 -vegetables .... eat skreen- .- .+ 2% 2-0. 6 $6 Meat cakes, 504* . . . . 386 Musician, epitaph ona 100 Mutton, to boil a 7 a rerad bi) “——— neck, 2... 2 i 131 Mutton, 23. - 151 —— roast aleg, 24... . 152 eens itto saddle, 265 6s.8 2021b. —+~—: shoulder, 27: <. 6s. “ib. loin, 28+. ke Ruees Ib. neck, 29 . od OD breast 30 vi.06) S5).5.450 Cab. rele ae haunch, Bhi! Meare hy do. venison fashion, 32 ib. or veal pie (Ap. 10) - 442 chops, 92 .. Betas b 375) —— ditto stewed, 490 ae 7 broth, 194, 564. 238, 428 mock, 195. - 239 —— to hash, 484 - 370 —— haricot, "489 , - 374 — mullagatawnysoup,249 270 _ Mushroom sauce, 305 - 295 ——. ditto brown, 306 - 296 —— extempore, 307... -ib. OS a Oy ae en ee pl , : \ PAGE Mushroom, quintessence of, 440% bug ees «we. hee] Marrow bones, 544 aed ate vegetable jveure. 426 Muffins (Ap. 102)... «476 Musical epitaph . .. . 100 Music of bubble and squeak 387 Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* . 336 grater, the best .. 70- - 408 - 108 - 492 - 203 Omelettes, 543% . . . Onion, Obs. on, note. pickled (Ap. 121) stewed, 137... young, sauce, 296 . 292 sauce, 297 . - 293 white,, 298 » +10. brown, 299 . ib. sage and, 300... . 294 Orange jelly (Ap. 47) . . 456 gingerbread (Ap.75) 466 Orgeat (Ap. 81) .-. . . 467 Ox-cheek stewed, 507... . 388 portable soup of, ster pened 2 . 389 258 -. 260 282). Ox-tails stewed, 508 whit» Ox-head soup, 239 “E55 Ox-tail soup, 240. . Ox-heel jelly, 198 . .. . 239 -— soup, 240* - 261 Oysters, how to feed and to preserve their lives, and how to tickle them to death, 181... «-. - 229 certainly not so nu- tritive as supposed, N.B. LO LE elo ei eae - 231 ———~ native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, note to RSL oe, Sollee eles «229 essence of, 441 . . 347 scalloped, 182 . . 232 stewed, 182* . . . 233 ——— fried, 183... . ib. ——— sauce, 278 . . - 285 Z INDEX. ies ‘ PAGE ; 7 3 PAGE Oysters preserved in powder, Pheasanits:68 she 6 ee eh LGB: 280. ae stm su) #6 286 mock ditto, 69 . . 174 patties (Ap. 26)).....449°7 criterion ofits being . . ikem, H. Cook to Sir J. “assez mortifiée,’? Obs. _ anksna any. ts. xiv, 52 on, 68% Wa Sai 32 ETS —_— ditto, his receipts for PICELES de Pea ay _ puddings, &c. 560. ~ i422 Obs..on) 3 5 a0 2 489 Oatmeal, a substitute for pounded, .. . 9. . 487 bread-crumbs, note . 93 wholesome substi. é ; tube for tea Sy a nate: Pigeons, FORBES A cae, a ao BancakéssG58' © )on.)! «421 a ayaa ae 63 Paregoric elixir, 570 . . 431 or jeter pie (Ap. 13) 444 Pharmacopeia, Appendixto xii | Pig, sucking, 56 . - 161 Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib. | Petit-toes, or sucking-pig’s Parsley and butter, 261. . 282 Feet TO eg woos oe Lal to preserve, N.B. to Piquante vinegar, 453 - » 390 Bi eh PUNO ks hee ae re SDs Plaice, fried, 155 . tec Bia. FriedyS17 222.) 298 | Plain pound cake (Ap. 57) 460 PEICLISD, LO Cates 6s Ab. Plum pudding, 553 + AVS Partridges, 70... . 175 | Plum-pudding sauce, 269 . 284 soup, 241 . - 262 | Pound cake (Ap. 58) . . 460 Paste for croquants, or cut — | Poached eggs, 546. . . 413 pastry (Ap. 8) . . . . 442 | Poor man’s sauce, 310 . . 296 for meat or savoury Poor, soup for, 229 . . . 258 pies (Ap.2) . . - 440 Papin, ag his bisects for boiled puddings note . Pie 4) (Ap. 6)a cere . 441 | Pork, the season for it, and for stringing tartlets, the accompaniments, &c. > SetAipa pies Haute. 442 MO oP Ae eee Pease, to boil, 134 pert ine QOL toroastaleg,50 . . 159 © pudding, DGD ate. 420 to boil ditto, 11. . 140 show to make for to roast without the half the usual expense, site on, SL or ae ee ae note to555 . . . . ib. mock goose, 51 . ib. soups, 218, 220 . 247, 249 to lambify the leg ofS a —— ditto in five minutes, porkling, see note to Os. cs Sie Obs. £61585" 2 . 420 griskingS2 6: ei5 160 curry pease ‘Rad note -Sparerib, 53... 6 ib. tODIR Fk + « 248 loing, 548 oie rey ee celery do. do. 218 iis DAT chine.) 5S) 349 colkaunens 108% 193 Potted beef, veal, game, &e. 503. ° - ee tee nen veal, game, &c. “why in season at the same time as mock turtle, note under 247 °..* . é 267 Potted ham, &c., 509 25 3b9 Prawns, 175 227 Poultry, to render imme- . diately ripe for roasting . 60 marketing tables SOR As bce - « 436 Pudding, my, 554. 418 plum, 553 - ib. do. do. sauce for, YOO \G:. pW Meee | suet, 551. 4 417 Yorkshire, 552 . ib. pease, 555 420 + macaroni, 543 406 Bape PALLET” Ciel S's) ww MeO Pudding, bread and butter, se ae a a ‘ PAGE boiled and baked, 557 . . 421 Boston apple. . . 422 spring fruit . . . 423 Nottingham... . ib. Newmarket . . . ib. Newcastle or cabinet 424 Vermicelli. 2. 2.020 ib. breades Hensel. ocdib, Custard: o.0i¢. 424 - boiled ditto . . . 425 college (Ap. 105) . 481 rice, baked or boiled 482 ground . . ib. save-all (Ap. 110) . 483 Puddings and pies, Obs. on 478 Pudding ope 446 . . 348 Puff paste (Ap. 1) - . 440 Pulled turkey, chicken, &e. 534... : ss 408 Punch directly, 478 otha SB essence of, to make, A FO se DRT ib. Purger souvent les Cuisi- niers (de la nécessité) - . 16 Pig’s petitoes, 12... . 141 Politeness, ancient rules for, note./ (ois. sheds yea Porpus . . 26 Pie, Jeffery Hudsea ‘served upinone.. . « 28 Provisions, how to procure the best 2. 225. 64,-486 Pepper, Obs. ona. 2-2 Sed vedaninir amen boxes 69 Queen’s drops (Ap. 62). . 461 Quin’s sauce, 425... 339 ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy’s marriage, in note to 433. : oN Be Rabbit, roast, 67 . . . .172 boiled, 17... . - 146 broiled, 97... 188 soup, 240 i. eh SH 26R pie (Ap. 17)... 445 INDEX. 507 Heine PAGE PAGE Rabbit, a Welch, 539 . - 404 Ragoiit beef, see Obs. to 493 377 i. sauce, 329 bile att : savoury powder, 4577 301 quintessence of ditto, . 304 : of poultry, to dress, 530* - 400 po eae rons of veal, 517 . 390 raised pies (Ap. 5). 441 French pies (Ap. 18) 446 ham pie ae. 19) . ib. pork pie (Ap. 21) . 447 ——__—— lamb pie (Ap. 23) . 448 Raspberry vinegar, 390. . 325 —_—_—_——_ wine or brandy, AGED. Sewers ty |» 2 BB jam (Ap. 92) . 471 wae “abbage ‘sapien (Ap. 460 - 492 Rhuberb, various ways of dressing ae . - 425 Rice blancmange (Ap. 109). 483 pudding (Ap. 106). . 482 ———.Sauce, 321* : —— snowballs (Ap. 108) - 483 Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30) . 450 RoastTIne, see the 2d chap. of Rudiments of Cookery 81 Robert sauce for — and geese, 342... - 306 Roe-boat. mites see Obs. to 342 - 307 Rouge, see note to 433. . a cin eee Roux, see Obs. to 257 . 280 Rump-steak broiled, 94. . 185 stewed, 500 . 380 ——__—_——. do., with onion WTAVY BOL sie: tec: . B81 pie (Ap. 15) . 445 Romans ate five meals a day 28 their favourite dishes ib. liquamen and garum 29 Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd’s, Bids tes REO sien... B09 Sage and onion sauce, 300 . 294 ground,pudding(Ap. 107)ib. 299 : - 476 Salt, to prepare for table, 371 316 Salt) Fisht, RG0 tists Sette a REO Salting meat, 6 - 134 to make itred,6 . . 135 —— to make it savoury, 6 ib. to pickle meat . . . ib. Sandwiches, 504 - 386 Save-all pudding (Ap. 110). 483 Scorcu haggis, 488* - 373 — collops, 517* - 392 ditto, minced . . 373 ——— gravy,seeObs.to 326 302 —_——— brose, 205*. . . 244 barley broth, 204. 241 beef, note . . . 149 soups, 205 . - 243 ———— winter hotch bite 205 1a Nala po & soup, or cocky leeky, 205 . . » aD, ——__— lamb stew, 295 . 244 Salads, Evelyn’s directions about, 138 and 372 . 203, 316 ‘Dutch, French, Ita- lian, &c. Obs. to 372. - - 318 ——— sauce, 372 and 453 316, 350 Salmon pickled, 161. . . 219 boiled, 162... . .!:ab. broiled, 163 . - 220. Sauce, before you make, read the 8th chapter of ~ ~~ Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101) Rudiments of Cookery . 120 anchovy, 270 - 284 apple, 304 - 295. basil vinegar or wine, _ . SOTA tae te ets trey His cay scolee ne balls for mock tur- tle, 360° 2... PRP bechamel, 364 «naan bottled oyster, 278. 285. beef gravy,for poul- LY: BID 50). 2:00 iw - 303. bonne bouche for a goose, 341 . 2» s 1» BOB, bread, 321 . . » 299. browning, 322 . . 300 508 PAGE Sauce, butter, melted, 256. 279 burnt, ditto, 260 . 281 clarified, ditto, 259. ib. oiled, ditto, 260* ~. ib. — to recover, N.B. to BRE. ot COs. eR DED catchup of mush- rooms, 439 . ... - 345 of walnuts, 438 . 344 of cockles, &c. BAD Sse ae BEB for puddings, 446 . ib. camp vinegar, 403 . 331 caper, 274 . . . 285 celery, 289 9. «~.-290 ———.. ditto, brown, 290 ». 291 chervil, 264 . «283 Chili vinegar, 405 . 333 crisp parsley, 318 . 298 cucumber, 185. . . 202 curry, 348 . .. . 309 egg, 267. - 283 essence of turtle,343* 307 of ham, 351 . . 309 of mushrooms, 440 347 of oysters, 441 ~.. ib. of Cayenne, 405 . 332 of anchovy, 433 . 34] of lemon-peel, 407 333 ————. quintessenceof ditto, MOS. earns : . 334 : essence of celery, 409 335 of ginger, 411 . . ib. of allspice, 412 . ib. of clove, 2414 . 396 of mace, § of cinnamon, 416 ib. of soup-herbs, 420 337 of soup-herb and savoury spice, 422. ... of eschalot, 402 . 330 of punch, 479 . eschalot, 294. . . 292 ditto, vinegar, 401 . 330 fennel and butter for mackerel, &c. 265. . . 283 fish, 425 . . . . 339 forcemeat, to make, PaO. : Haig Ie Hor he LS oe ear ” INDEX. PA Sauce, forcemeat balls. for mock turtle, 380... . . 323 egg balls, 381 . . 324 +. ciirry ditto; 382°.-.- 1b. fish forcemeat, 383 .- ib. - zest ditto, 386 '. 325 for veal, 375 . . . 322 to mix orange or le- mon-peel, 387. . . . 320 gravy for poultry, ragouts, &e. 329 - 303 ditto for game, 337 305 ditto for wild duck, BSB TP OE sores ditto of onion, 299 . 293 ditto of garlic, 311°. 297 ditto for roasted meat, S26. 2S . 302 ditto fai boiled ditto, v327 . 303 ae OW, Yor boiled beef, 328 ...+. . : ab. wine, see venison, B44 eit Ms a se OS vinegar for venison, BAB! 0a Wied On eee steers mutton!) Pe eli. ——~— for grills, 355 . . 309 for chops and pet BOB AIO for cold meat or poul- try, 359... >. - dil — for hashes of niutton, &c. 360 Ve ee Seb. for ditto of veal, 361 313 relish for chops, 423 338 . 310 gooseberry, 263. . 282 garlic, 272. . « 284 ditto gravy, 311. . 297 ditto vinegar, 400 . 329 M. Kelly’s, for calf’s head or cow-heel, 311* .:297 ditto say piquante, BLGP eG: Ms NG Pag te 53 lemon, syrup of, 391 326 lemonade in a minute, 7 My pr mae EP Ee Pe dal lemon, 273... . 285 ditto and liver, or INDEX. 509° PAGE PAGE parsley. and liver sauce, Savoys, 120. oth 196: + + 2 « « «+ « 289 | Savoury-salt beef, 496 . . 378 Sauce, liver, for fish, 288 290 | Savoury pies, pasties, &c. lobster, 284 . . . 288 (Ap. 12). ‘ 43 for lobster, 285 . ~ 289 | Soup-herb powder, or vege- mackerel-roe, 266 . 283 table relish, 459 . . . 353 green mint, 303 . 294 | Shrimps, potted, 175 . . 227 vinegar, 398 . - 329 | Shrimp sauce, 283 . . . 287 ———— mushroom, 305 . . 295 | Shrub, 479... . 363 ditto, brown, 306. . 296 | Small puffs of preserved frit ditto, in five minutes, (Ap. 36) , - . 452 Pete wee eer ta ae? ab. | Snipes, FF es 176 - mustard, to make, Soda water, Obs. on, note . 33 SG ide eee 2 BRO | Sorfel sauce, 201°. -. - 291 ditto, in a minute, Sponge biscuits (Ap. 66) - 463 BID cinta pile «abs. |; Sprouts, 121°* 7 gs —-—- ditto, to keep, 427 - 339 | Sparerib of nba to thority oyster, 278 . . ~ 285 re - 160 bottled ditto, 280 . 286 | Spices, Obs. on. 499 . . 340 onion, 297 293 | Soup-herb and savoury pow- ———. ditto, white, for rab der, 460 . af eG . 354 bits, &c. 298 . . seaab. spirit, 420, 421, 429 young onion, 296 . 292 dy 338 fried, or brown onion, Spinage, 122. . - 196 299 nhj liga - 293 | Stock, first, note to 185. 234. sage and onion, 300 294 second, note to 185 . 235 ox-heel jelly, 198 . 239 | Stuffing, 373. . . 318: parsley and. butter, moe for hare, 379 . 323 ML elas qa, Vm ea» BBQ — for goose, 378. . ib. ditto, fried, 317 . . 298 — for turkey, 377 ib. Gitte, crisp, 318... -~—ib.. | ——_— for véal, 874... -« S22 pease powder, 458 . 352 | Suet pudding, 551. - 417 pickles, 462 . . . 466 | Syrup, clarified, 475. . . 362 piquante vinegar, of lemon-peel, 393 . 327 MGS pinetws! sol tan, pa lia + B00 of lemon, 391. . . 326 plum-pudding, 269 . 284 of orange, 392 ib. poivrade, 365 . . 315 | Stomach, an Englishman’s poor man’s, 310. . 296 cooking kettle, Dr. Hun- potato mucilage, 448 348 ter’s Obs.on; Waterhouse’s: ragout sauce, 329 .. 303 ditto, note ragout powder, 457. 351 the machinery of ——— quintessence of ra- life? gout powder, 460 . . . 354 | —— Dr. Cheyne’s Obs. rice,waei*:. . . 299 on; Abernethy’s ditto 7 salad mixture, 372. 316 | Stomachic tincture, 569 430 salad, 453 . 350 Spectacles for Gourmands . 12 superlative, 429. . 339 | Spring fruit, various Niitde of . box, 462 - 62, 356 . dressing . « « 425 Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69). . 464 Sprats, to broil, 170" Pay 7,2 225° 519 PAGE Sprats, to pickle,171 . . 224 to stew, 170** . . 225 to fry, 173... ». 227 Store sauces . . atomv Servants, Sei expenses of 14 - Wm. Wat- ‘ kins’ ceva institution for the encouragement of 15 friendly advice to 45 Dallaway’s moni- OK FOR ee Oy ea maxims for ap EDS Swan. - - 206 es es 27 Seale er ve thee . ib. Skate, 148 . . . 210 Soups, under the name of the article they are made of. Soup, Obs.on . . . . . 104 —~cheap. . & fey cew kh OG and bouilli, 23 238. Steaks, 85,94. .°. 181, 185 Stew-pan . oe hO4 Suet, to clarify for frying, &e., 4S pe a ea OLD. _—— puddings sage his - 479 Smrvru, hislozenges, note . 33 Sausages, to fry, 87 . . . 181 Sweetbread, to fry, 88 Sah 2 do. plain, 89. ib. Sweet, or short and crisp tar t-paste (Ap. es she 44) Sea-kale, 124 . os cata el QB Soles, to boil; 144... .. ..206 to fry, V45 usiasvephtet ce 7. en 't0. stews 146, '. 158, DOE hie) ha ye BO, 2IG eek 4 flleteds 147) iia 210 Skate, fried, 154... . .. 213 PiuTPreon, 1H2 oo. peo Sea. Tart-paste (Ap. 3) .... Fartlets (Ap. 34). . - 451 Taste, the Committee sof, Preface 6) 25. : xill the Magazine of, ee Schl a gees BBG yarieties of «. 51, &e. INDEX. PAGE Tastes, six simple, note . 54 Tamis, note to, 189 . .. . 237 Tankard, cool, 464... «358 Tarragon sauce, 264. . . 283 vinegar, 396 - 327 Tea, to make, 550 . . « 415 Tender, to make meat .. ...60 Tewahdiddle, 467. . . ..359 Thickening, or rowr, 257 . 280 ditto’), ¢intig-+ L1G Toast and water, 465 © .. . 357. and cheese, 539 - 404 Toasted cheese, 540 . >. .. 405 Tomata sauce, 292 .... . 291 - mock ditto, 293 . 292 Tongue, to boil, 15 .. . 143 what the roots are good for, see Obs. to 15. 144 Toothach, cure for, 567. . 430 Tripe, 18... Vets aro AAG Trifle (Ap. 49) - 456 Trusler, Domestic Manage- ment . «ie TAM” cued Truffles, Obs. OT eae eh -d dS Turbot, to boil, 149... - 200 Turkey, to boil, 1G4 spar 144 to fatten and whiten, TG peers th Rie Ie CaaS ese Toast, 257 wes de0iee SEBS hash, &c., 533... 401 pulled, 534. . ..402 Turnips, 130... of eh 99 —. to.mash, 131 - 200 Turnip-tops, 132... ..-ib. soup, 213... ... . 245 Turtle, to dress, 250. . . 271 at ALBIoN Housgs, Aldersgate-street, note to 250... «tb, fowls ditto, 247 J &e. 266 Birch’s ditto, excel- lent note-to:B4qe so) Ue wtb: mock mock do., 245. 265 —_——. English, 248 « 270 —~.| save, 343 . 307. essence, 343*.... ... ib, hints toturtle eaters, Obs. to 493... o OTT 2500. pounds of, Vegetables, Obs. on. eaten at one “eae note ’ to 250- oe “e e oe ane (Ap. 65): . : Viuxhall nce; to imitate, SPEGO). 2. te HR te te: Veal, toboil,4. ... toroast, 33. . . —— fillet, SAP 1gih, SHG. aisr. shoulder, 36... neck, best end, 37 breast, 38. 56°. sweetbread, 39. . cutlet, 90... ditto, sauce for, 90 ° - e e . e . e e . oo ae ere oe — —— ditto, full dressed, 521. broth, 191°... *. gravy,192 ...- - —— knuckle soup, 193. . —— stuffing, Roger Fow- es yd: ie ae é forcemeat, 375. . . breast, stewed, 515 wo Minced, S1b%) (. . meee Hashed 511.) sauce for, 361. . . excellent hot ragout of cold veal, 512 . . = potted, 603 sh... breast ragoit, 517. . 3 ditto with pease, note LOND oes SORT Ce te. 6-5 eee MEE GOES, po) 3" —— cutlets, broiled, 521 knuckle, to ragout, 522 With rice, G23...) ..{j\. —— Gay’s nal ditto, G24 ye seh and ham patties (Ap. 28). ; pie (Ap. 20) : See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery Vegetable essences, to ex- EEOGS EE hie boo lie —— marrow . INDEXs PAGE 51t ; PAGE Vegetables, marketing tables POS ES Oa ada tay cee Venison, to roast a haunch, GOs te tea Fp there «Oe neck, or shoulder, G4 eis Ra te OD to hash, 528. . . 397 to vensonify mut- CONS. GEN tue he rghitey hes ee the Devil’s . . . 25° ———. wine sauce for, 344 308 ——— sharp do. for, 345 . ib.- ———. sweet do., 346 . ib. —_— mutton gravy, 347. ib. pasty (Ap.9) . . 442 Vinegar sauce for venison, SAGs ii oitte) xeraigeaitnes mt aOG burnet, or cucum- ber, 399 . . es basil, 397 « OI Aaa Rs Pi Pee, CLESS, GOT ne «05 ckDs ——— garlic, 400: ..... - 329 — — horseradish, 399* . ib. ——— eschalot,401. . 330 —— camp, 403 . . . 331 ——— piquante, 453 . 3o0 ——— for salads, 395: ..-. 327 ——— tarragon, 396 ib. raspberry, 390 . . 325 sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c., Obs. to 396 igh green mint, 398 - 329 — pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* -. oi ya Vol au vent (Ap. 25) = 9) 449 Walnuts, to. pickle 116) .. ; Walnut catchup, 438 . 344 Water Bt uel immediately, ihe 5 atcha ee eee oe | various relishes for, 572 ib. Watkins, the Rev. G., his (Ap. - . 490 hints to heads of families 15 Water souchy, 156 . . . 214 Welsh rabbit, 539 . . . 404 Wheatears, 81 . . ~ 178 512 ‘INDEX. PAGE White sauce, 364, 365 314, 315 wine whey, 566. . 429 Whitings, fried, 153. . . 213 Whip syllabub (Ap. 50). 457 Widgeons and teal, 75 . . 175 Wild ducks, 74. . . ~ . ib. Wine sauce for venison, &c. © ea eschalot, 402 . . . 330 Woodcock, 76... . . 176 has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note to 76. . . ib. oe ~ » 308: \y » ; P. ’ Wow-wow sauce for boiled. ~ beet, 328. 4. 0elget es AGRE’ - 303: Weights and measures for cookery, table of . . e 69 , Weight, the diminution that takes place in cook- 11 ae ees oy Yorkshire pudding, 552. Zest, 255° oo 6 ee 8 - 76 - 417 - FAREWELL TO THE READER. Wes now have made, in one design, The Utile and Dulce join; Ayvgi taught the poor, and men of wealth, To reconcile their tastes to Health; Restrain each forward appetite, To dine with prudence and delight, And, careful all our rules to follow, To masticate before they swallow. Tis thus HyGEIA guides our pen, To warn the greedy sons of men, To moderate their wine and meat, And < eat to live, not live to eat.” #or the rash Palate oft bestows Arthritic Lectures on the Toes!!! "The Stomach, void of wind and bile, Shall praise our monitory style; And as he cannot speak, enlist Himself as your ventriloquist— _ The Head, now clear from pain and vapour, ‘ Shall order out his ink and paper; And dictate praises on these rules, "To govern gormandising fools. ‘The Legs, now fearless of the gout, As ready messengers turn out, To spread our volume far and near, Active in gratitude sincere. While thus the Body, strong and sound, Cur constant advocate is found ; And pointing to receipts delicious, Exclaims ‘* who reads our new APICIUS, If he has brains may keep them cool; If a sound stomach and r fool, May keep it so, unclogged by food, Indigestion’s sickly brood ; His Hunger, though oppressive, ease, His Palate, though capricious, please; And if with care he reads our book, In theory may be a Cook: Learn the delights good rules procure us When appetite by reason’s aw’d, (Zeno alike and Epicurus Pleasures combin’d with health applaud,) — He who is Stomach’s master, he The noblest Empire then may boast, And at whatever Feast he be, That man alone < shall rule the Roast.” e THE END. @ LONDON: Jo MOYES, TOOK’S COURT, CHANCERY LANE+e - (Me lal(ahs of hinfoths Crrcls) ™ Meo Galberes ee As Ae OAs nite. a : Parged cc. Lto Ce cecocet pheno mag Jt ined en: tthe, cefeid Te HES sak a Tas ns teak y, (Corbi alr PMP 5 tae pera: a7 Sjia fey ras | e gts : ' Ancl I IS ci1y Fi PEN. 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