eKtone 
 
 wa 
 t 
 
 % 
 
 $3 ot din Mn 
 
L CANMPO 
 
 m, Pubhshed by JolmEbers &Co.N°27, Old Bond Street 
 
 Printed by Engehnann Co. 
 
THE 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER;, 
 
 OR 
 COMPLETE ECONOMY 
 
 OF 
 
 DESSERTS, 
 
 ACCORDING TO THE MOST MODERN AND APPROVED PRACTICE. 
 
 By G. A. JARRIN, 
 
 CONFECTIONER, NEW BOND STREET. 
 
 Ea: 
 
 NEW EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN EBERS AND CO., OLD BOND-STREET, 4 
 
 SOLD ALSO BY 
 HURST AND CO.$ AND SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, LONDON$ WILSON AND 
 SONS, YORK$ H. MOZLEY, DERBY5 W. AND W. CLARKE, AND T,. 
 GREGSON, MANCHESTER $ G. AND J. ROBINSON, LIVER- 
 POOL$ BELL AND BRADFUTE, EDINBURGH 5 
 GRIFFIN, GLASGOW 5 J. CUMMING, 
 DUBLIN 5 AND BOLSTER, 
 CORK. 
 
 ae 
 
 MDCCCXXIX. 
 
fr eS TE HY 
 x a os 
 
 ‘ 
 
 oe, ven re | ae , 
 Lay NY A eee 
 ae avai e) 
 hi ae a >i x t 
 
 e 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE very favourable reception given by- the Public 
 to the former Editions of the Ivatian Cownrec- 
 TIONER, demands the author’s warmest acknowledg- 
 ment ; and he has endeavoured, in consequence, to 
 render the impression now offered more worthy of 
 patronage, by correcting errors, and by various 
 additions, which he trusts will make the work more 
 acceptable, both to the professional and private 
 reader. With this view, besides the introduction 
 of such novelties as occurred in his own practice, 
 the author has examined the principal works on 
 the Confectioner’s Art published in Italy, Germany, 
 and France, with the hope of selecting something 
 that might be serviceable to his plan. The result 
 is before the reader: for himself, the author can 
 truly affirm, that his object has been to produce a 
 book that should be useful to his brethren and the - 
 public. Devoted-as he is to the improvement of 
 his art, his ambition will be fully gratified, if his 
 labours should be found to contribute to a result so 
 desirable. 
 
 Bond-street, Jan. 1829. 
 
{ ae, 
 4 = ‘. <4 here ilebent = 
 
 jive 200 vemmtoc a ‘poncitesing | 
 iri} viedo ned age. 2 
 tk ae BindvsS ai: Yried 
 ried eaten baviiqob doidve 
 oats itor at elisa 
 note sai 
 
 Hcy he 
 
 . oa Ss 84h es Pa TS ts pees 
 
 anod Rosen tie tog a "4 
 
 a +t ey 
 “yt Ar ssi ee coe 
 
 2 serif fe ad 
 
 pe Pape". p perie § 
 
 teost eetiod Oe fe 
 
 ‘eft Io stettohy tt he . 
 BeCRS Tae f piney 
 
 483 rie ee “9 si a sesh 
 
 "pe 
 * 
 7 
 <i 
 ? 
 “ 
 
 “nga ih iva aut a 6 stig ikea 
 es on see bbatnet cD wad. ree 
 
 Psy Wa Ahaalg Hi teil Sent 7 
 a7 
 I a 
 
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. 
 
 Tue art of the Confectioner, in common with 
 almost every other art, has been greatly improved 
 by the aid of modern Chemistry : the events of the 
 French Revolution also, which deprived many in- 
 genious men of their situations in noble families, 
 and compelled them to seek a subsistence by laying 
 before the public the secrets of Confectionery, 
 have done much towards the appaveh of this 
 agreeable art. 7 
 
 The Confectioner is not without books which 
 pretend to teach the principles of his profession ; 
 but these are, in general, more applicable to the 
 theory than the practice of Confectionery, and most 
 of them are very imperfect; some recent publica- 
 tions being totally silent on matters of the first 
 importance. ‘There is not, indeed, any treatise in 
 the English language which can be of essential 
 use to the Confectioner. The author, therefore, 
 after many years’ successful practice of his art, ven- 
 tures to present his Irat1an ConFecTioneER to the 
 public, in the full confidence that it will not only 
 supply the defects of former treatises, but will be 
 found to contain every important particular which 
 
¥1 PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. 
 
 relates to, or is connected with Confectionery; in- 
 ~ cluding a variety of articles entirely new, and 
 describing processes little, if at all, known in 
 England. | 
 The Work is divided into Sections, and treats at 
 large of Sucar, and the manner of preparing: it ; 
 of the numerous Candies, and Bon-Bons, as they 
 are made in France ; of the Imitation of Vegeta- 
 bles, Fruits, and other natural objects, in Sugar, 
 and ofa great variety of Drops, Prawlings, &c. &c.; 
 of the best mode of preparing Chocolate and 
 Cocoa; of Syrups, Marmanapes, Jecuies, Fruit, 
 and other Pastes, and of Preservep Fruits, in- 
 cluding directions for Preserving Fruit without 
 sugar, according to the method of M. ApprErt; 
 with hints respecting the construction of Ovens 
 and Stoves, and a Table of the various degrees 
 of heat adapted to the different articles of Con- 
 fectionery. | 
 The Iratian ConrecTioner will also be found 
 to contain receipts to make Tablets and Rock 
 Sugar ; the various Compotes ; the French method 
 of preparing Comrits ; the best manner of making 
 Creams and Ices, with some important hints 
 respecting the latter, upon which their excellence 
 entirely depends ; how to preserve Fruits in Brandy ; 
 to make and arrange Pieces Montées, Confectionery 
 
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. Vil 
 
 Paste, and the mode of producing Picturesque 
 Scenery, with trees, lakes, rocks, &c.; LozENnces 
 ~ and Jellies ; Cool Drinks for balls and routes; 
 Cakes, Wafers, Biscuits, (particularly those of 
 Italy,) rich Cakes, Biscotint, Macaroons, &c. &c. 
 
 The Section on Distitiation includes Distilled 
 Waters, Liqueurs composed of Spirits, and Ra- 
 tarias of all kinds. That part of the Work which 
 regards the Decoration or THE TABLE, necessa- 
 rily treats of the articles which compose the various 
 - ernaments used for this purpose; as Gum Paste, 
 and the most approved mode of Mopg.iine Flow- 
 ers, Animals, Figures, &c.; of Colours for Confec- 
 tionery, with full instructions how to prepare them ; 
 of Varnishing and Gilding; of Moutpinc, with 
 directions to enable every Confectioner to make his 
 own moulds; of Works in Pasteboard, Gold and 
 Silver Papers, Borders, &c. &c.; and, to com- 
 plete the whole, and render the Confectioner inde- 
 pendent of every other artist, the manner of En- 
 GRAVING ON STEEL, and on Woop, is fully ex- 
 plained. | 
 
 The various arts of Drawing, Modelling, En- 
 graving, Carving, Moulding, and many other 
 pursuits, usually considered foreign to the practice 
 of the Confectioner, have been closely studied 
 by the author for many years; and the very nu- 
 
vil PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION; 
 
 merous processes described in his Work (many of 
 which he invented) have all been employed by him 
 with the most complete success. 
 
 The Prates, it is hoped, will be found hiofak — 
 Many of the tools and implements described were 
 invented or improved by the writer; and he can 
 safely recommend them, from long experience a 
 their utility in his own practice. . 
 
 In offering his first production to the pablios the 
 author feels the diffidence natural to a new attempt. 
 His object has been to produce a useful, rather 
 than a large volume; and, wherever the subject 
 admitted it, he has, as much as possible, com- 
 pressed his materials. In describing the minutize 
 of various processes used in his art, (however fami- 
 liar to himself in practice,) he fears he may not 
 always have succeeded in conveying his ideas so 
 clearly as might be desired; but the difficulty of 
 explaining, by words alone, the most trifling ma- 
 nual operation, is so well known to all who have 
 made the experiment, that he solicits, and relies 
 upon the indulgence of the liberal critic, for any 
 deficiencies that may be found in this department 
 of his Work ; and generally, for any other defects, 
 which he is apprehensive may have occurred, from 
 writing in a language not native to him. 
 
 G, Aro 
 
- - 
 
 ~ | DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 Figure 1.—A copper boiler, fixed in brick and mortar, to clarify 
 sugar in large quantities, with a cock at the bottom to draw. off the 
 clarified syrup.—See page 1. 
 
 Figure 2.—A cloth strainer, or flannel bag, to strain the sugar 
 when clarified and reduced to syrup, and conduct it into the reser- 
 voir, which is of copper; with a cock at the bottom to draw off the 
 syrup as wanted.—See page 2, No. 2. 
 
 Figure 3.—A round mould for sugar candy, in which a number 
 of small holes are bored for the purpose of stretching threads across, 
 that the candy may fix to them, as explained in page 6, No. 13: 
 this mould may he either of copper or tin ; its size in proportion to 
 the quantity of sugar candy required. 
 
 Figure 4,—A box of tin, to receive the wire-work gratings, No. 
 4, in order to dry and drain off candied fruits: the box must have 
 a hole, and small pipe, at one corner, that the extra syrup may pass 
 off; it must be tightly corked during the work.—See page 7, 
 No. 16. 
 
 Figure 5.—A box, twelve inches long, eight inches wide, and two 
 inches deep, with a hole and pipe at one corner to drain off syrup‘ 
 this box is to be placed in the stove, or cupboard, jig. 6, and is 
 used to dry meteors, liqueur rings, and every candy, as directed at 
 page 9, No. 17. 
 
 Figure 6.—A stove, or cupboard, made of iron, containing nine 
 eases, on three shelves, which, by means of pivots placed on the 
 outside of the cupboard, may be moved in a slanting direction to 
 let the syrup flow off: these shelves are kept in the position re- 
 
x . DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 quired, by pins adapted to small square holes in a quarter circle; 
 near the bottom there must be a sort of basin, formed like a funnel, 
 to receive the drainings of the nine boxes, and conduct It into a 
 pan at the bottom of the stove. . 
 
 The cupboard receives heat, which may be carried to 140 aire 
 by a single pipe fixed to a stove in the laboratory, whose smoke is 
 carried into a chimney near at hand; the heat may be applied 
 according to the situation, observing that it should always proceed 
 from the bottom of the stove. When the cupboard is shut, it shews 
 a circular opening, which may be closed at pleasure, to evaporate 
 the heat when in excess ; on the opening is a dial to mark the hour 
 when the candy is put in the stove, and the time when it should be 
 withdrawn, in order to secure exactness in the process. 
 
 This stove was invented by the Author; it is extremely con- 
 venient, and he uses it with complete success.—See page 12, No. 
 23.—Liqueur Rings in Candy. 
 
 Figure 7—A frame, twelve inches square, made of tin, divided 
 into small squares, used for cutting out barley-sugar tablets.—See 
 page 18, No. 35, These squares vary in date, according to the 
 size you would have your tablets. 
 
 Figure 8.—A copper funnel, which must be provided with a stick 
 to fit the aperture, moveable at will: it is an implement of the 
 greatest utility, and was invented by the Author for Liqueur Drops 
 and various other articles—See page 32, No. 65. 
 
 Figure 9.—A funnel, with a screw, without which it would be 
 impossible to make the little jewel drops (page 33, No: 67) uniform 
 and perfect in shape and size. The Author invented this tool, and 
 the frame which receives the drops, both of which he finds of the 
 utmost service for various purposes.—See page 33, No. 67. 
 
 Figure 10.—A box-wood mould, of which the hollow is intended 
 to receive a paper cut round, which the pressure at the top compels 
 to take the form of a ring; it is used for liqueur rings.—See page 
 34, No. 68, 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. © Xi 
 
 Figure 11.—A stewpan used in making drops, to warm the paste, 
 and run it on the marble slab.—See page 35, No. 71. 
 
 : Figure 12.—A spatula, or spaddle: this is a much more vibe 
 tool.for a confectioner than the wooden spoon generally used ; 
 
 saves sugar, and performs its office more effectually: the an 
 can safely recommend the adoption of it—See page 146, No. 369, 
 &6,.5— Boos 
 
 Figure 13.—A stone slab for making chocolate, thirty inches 
 long, eighteen wide; hollow in the inside to contain a chaffing-dish 
 to warm the stone: the roller is of polished iron. The stone should 
 be of a fine texture, and very smooth.—See page 44, No. 102. 
 
 Figure 14.—A tin mould to form the chocolate into half-pound 
 cakes ; the stripes inside are relieved, which forms the hollow marks 
 on the chocolate, each square being the quantity sufficient for a 
 cup.—See page 44, No. 102. 
 
 Figure 15.—A tin mould for forming mushrooms, or champig- 
 nons, in rock sugar, made to open in two pieces, and held together 
 with a hinge; they should be provided of different sizes.—See 
 Mushroom in Rock Sugar, page 86, No. 210. 
 
 Figure 16.—A tin funnel, containing a paste sufficiently liquid to 
 run without pressure by its own weight ; used to form the patience 
 biscuits, as described in page 146, No. 369, 
 
 Figure 17.—A funnel with four holes, or pipes, used for savoy 
 biscuits only.—See page 147, No. 372. 
 
 Figure 18.—A mould of box-wood, intended to give paper the 
 form of a small basket: the paper being pressed into the hollow 
 takes the shape required, as explained in page 148, No, 374. 
 
Xl DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, 
 
 PLATE IL 
 
 Figure 1.—A tin syringe, or cylinder, into which almond paste 
 is put, and being forced through by the handle, takes the shape of 
 a star, or any other form you may choose to place at the aperture: 
 this tool is used for making syringe biscuits—See page 168, No. 
 418. 
 
 - 
 
 Figure 2.—A balancing pan, in copper, used for making com- 
 fits; the sides must be rounded, and it has two handles on the 
 sides, and one in the centre, which serve to shake it when at work; 
 inside the two lateral handles are eyes of iron, which receive two 
 SS, to which hang chains, or cords, fixed over a bar of iron, or 
 wood, placed horizontally to balance the pan on the bar; the bar 
 must be fixed in the centre to another S, and a hook secured in the 
 cieling of the room; in the centre is represented a funnel used to 
 pearl the comfits ; it is made like that described in plate I. fig. 9. 
 The little dish at the bottom is of iron, and contains fire to dry the 
 comfits.—See page 95, No. 240.—Of Comjits. 
 
 Figure 3.—A screw press, to press gum-dragon, and suitable for 
 different purposes: it is of wood, the cylinder pierced with small 
 holes, is copper, of a good thickness; the press must be fixed to a 
 wall in the laboratory, to obtain sufficient strength to tighten the 
 vice or screw; the prepared gum is to be inclosed in a linen bag 
 contained within the cylinder.—See page 193, No. 488. 
 
 Figure 4.—A piece of box-wood, engraved to resemble the shell 
 and kernel of a walnut; this is used to push fancy biscuits in,— 
 See page 168, No. 419. | 
 
 Figure 5.—An iron tool to make wafers: the ring at the top is 
 to keep the iron closed when not in use; when you put it away, be 
 careful to cut a piece of whited-brown paper in it, to prevent the 
 blades from rusting. Its useis described in page 14], No. 360. 
 
 Figure 6.—Position of the hands when flattening and modelling 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. xin 
 
 a rose leaf with a tool of ivory, to which is affixed two little balls. 
 —See page 196, No, 494. 
 
 Figure 7.—A table, with apparatus for modelling flowers: to the 
 two iron uprights are fixed cross wires to hook the flowers on as 
 they are finished, in order to dry them; on the table is a tin cutting 
 tool to form the leaf; a square mould in wood, in which is engraved 
 the calyx of the flower ; on the right is an ivory tool, used to stripe 
 the carnation leaf, &c.—See page 196, Nos. 494, 495. ; 
 
 Figure 8.—A mould in lead for ice fruits ; it must have a hinge: 
 for the manner of using it, and its use, see page 95, No. 240, 
 and page 120, No. 314. 
 
 Figure 9.—A tub containing the freezing- pot for ices ; described 
 in page 110, No. 275. 
 
 Figure 10.—A quill, notched at the point as the teeth of a saw, 
 used in modelling paste, to produce the frizzled appearance of the 
 wool of the lamb.—See page 202, No. 510. 
 
 Figure 11.—A piece of wood, to turn small horns upon; and one 
 of them complete, as a model. The use of this tool is explained in ~ 
 page 198, No. 498. 
 
 Figure 12.—A tin cutting tool, used in notching shells, which 
 are afterwards turned on the tool described in Fig. 11. 
 
 Figure 13.—A large square, and a small one, to show the mode 
 of reducing a large drawing to any smaller dimension you may 
 require.—See page 201, No. 508. 
 
 Figure 14.—A_ block of wood, hollowed out in the centre, con- 
 taining the tool for cutting out borders of paper: the cutter is con- 
 fined by a screw, which keeps it in its place ; upon this the gilt, or 
 any other paper, is placed, and being struck,with the hammer, 
 which is of lead, takes an impression, and is cut out.—See page 
 920, No. 548. 
 
 Figure 15.—A draw bench, to make English gilt paper borders : 
 
XIV DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 this implement is of iron, and must be fixed to a table. The mode 
 of using it is minutely described in page 220,.No, 549. 
 
 Figure 16.—A wheel made of walnut tree, two inches thick and 
 eighteen inches in diameter, used for engraving figures in wood. — 
 The mode of using it is minutely explained under that head.—See 
 page 228, No. 556. 
 
 Figure 17.—Engraving tools of steel, four or five inches long : 
 they are of various patterns, and used in engraving wood.—See 
 that article, page 228, No. 556. 
 
 Figure 18.—A still, fixed on its stove, in the act of distilling : 
 the recipient should be supported on a mattress of straw, which is 
 omitted in the plate—See Distellation, page 179, No. 443. — 
 
 Figure 19.—An ornament, or assiette montée, finished, and pre- 
 pared to receive sweetmeats on the tambour, or pedestal, at bottom, 
 which is formed of pasteboard: it is to be sent up on a dish, and © 
 arranged on the table, with its accompaniments.—See the Descrip- 
 tion, page 222, No, 551. 
 
BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS. 
 
 No. I. 
 Bill of Fare for Four Persons. 
 
 Marischino 
 Cream Ice 
 
 PLATEAU. 
 
 gq Compote. 
 
 Straw- 
 berry 
 Tce. 
 
Xvi BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS, 
 
 No. II. 
 Bill of Fare for Six Persons. | 
 
 Barberry 
 Water 
 Ice. 
 
 Biscuit. 
 
 Apple PLATEA UW Pear 
 
 Compote. Compote. 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 Brown 
 Bread‘ 
 Ice Cream. 
 
BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS. XVil 
 
 No. III. 
 Bill of Fare for Six to Ten Persons. 
 
 Bomba 
 Ice. 
 
 Biscuit. Waters. 
 
 i Lemon 
 Fruit. Peel. 
 Strawberry PLATEAU. Orange 
 Compote. Compote. 
 
 Dry Fruit. 
 Cherries. 
 
 Waters. ye Biscuit. 
 
 Millefruit 
 Water Ice. 
 
XVliL BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS. 
 
 No. IV. 
 Bill of Fare for Ten to Twelve Persons. 
 
 Zee il o 2 
 
 Wafers. yo aes Biscuits. 
 
 ‘Apple PLATEAU. Pear 
 
 Compote. Compote. 
 
 Biscuits. Bi. it Wafers. 
 
BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS. xix 
 
 4 
 * 
 
 No. V. 
 Bill of Fare for Twelve to Twenty Persons. 
 
 2 RRR A Rae 
 
 oor 
 
 pan Gun 
 
 Pine 
 Apple 
 Water Ice. 
 
 : Wafer au 
 Macaroni. Citron. 
 
 Pear 
 Compote. 
 
 Fruits. 
 
 PLATEAU. 
 
 Green Cherr 
 Apricot ‘j 
 Compote. Compote. 
 
 Savoy 
 Finger 
 Vanilla. Biscuit. 
 
XX BILLS OF FARE FOR DESSERTS, 
 
 No. VI.—Bill of Fare for Twenty-four to Thirty Persons. 
 
 Geneva ee 
 Oranges Grapes | 
 in in 
 Casanas, REMOVE. base 
 eu at Ornament, 
 4 garnished 
 Fruit. with 
 Candy. 
 * Orange 
 Peel. 
 Pn re 
 Pear 
 ompote.| 
 aI wee, a ae ane a 
 s Ornament, Ornament, "i 
 garnished garnished 
 st with PLATEAU. with ° 
 aI Bonbons. Candy. < 
 2 S 
 Orange S 
 Heart om 
 Biscuit. . 
 Lemon 
 Peel 
 Ornament, ; 
 Fruit. garnished Fruit. 
 vith Mixe: 
 Bonbons. 
 Cherries REMOVE, 
 in 
 Casanas. 
 P lombie: 
 
 Cream. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Section I. Or SUGAR. 
 Page| No. Page 
 z ‘Of Sugar . 1.| 6A Thread ”’. ; . 3 
 2 To Clarify loaf Susie on il £ Pa Pearl: <> , . 4 
 3 To Clarify Coarse Brown 8 A Blow : : . ib. 
 Sugar, &c. > ib. | 9 A Feather «, 1b 
 4 A new method of Carte. 10 A Ball ‘ : . ib. 
 ing Sugar : . B11 ACrackk  . : . ib. 
 5 Degree of Boiling the Sugar ib. | 12 A Caramel . <> 
 Section II, Or CANDIES, &e. 
 13 Sugar Candy : . 6 | 24 Millefruit Candy 12 
 14 Production of Candy . ib. | 25 Harlequin Candy 13 
 15 Flowers in Candy . . 7} 26 Holland Candy ib. 
 16 Fruit in Candy . ib. | 27 Chocolate Candy 14 
 17 Meteorsin Candy . - . 9{| 28 JellyinCandy . gy, 
 18 Grapes in Candy . ib. | 29 Chips in Candy ib, 
 19 French Ribbon in Candy . 10 | 30 Apple Paste in pe 15 
 20 Orange Candy : . ib. | 31 Ball Candy ib. 
 21 North Pole Candy . ib. | 32 Orange-Flowers in Ceol 16 
 22 A Nosegay in Candy . 11 | 33 Jujube in Candy ib. 
 23 Liqueur Rings in Candy . 12 
 Section III. Or CARAMEL WORK. 
 
 34 Barley Sugar A . 17 | 43 Sugar-Tablets with Elder- 
 35 Barley-Sugar Tablets . 18 Flowers . 20 
 36 Barley-Sugar Drops . ib. | 44 Fruit in Caramel . 21 
 37 Poppy Drops : . ib. | 45 Chesnuts in Caramel ib. 
 38 French Ribbon . 19 | 46 Orange Quarters in Caramel ib. 
 
 39 Caromel Work . ib. | 47 Quartered Lemons in Ca- 
 40 Pine-Apple Tablets . 20 ramel 22 
 41 Barley-sugar Tablets . ib. | 48 Chaniilly basket . 7 3D: 
 42 Ginger Tablets . ib. | 49 Almond Caramel Baskets ib. 
 
XXll CONTENTS. 
 
 No. Page| No. Page 
 50 Nogat . : . 23173 Chocolate drops . «uae 
 51 Cake Nogat : . ib. | 74 Coffee Drops ; - 37 
 52 Of Spinning sugar . ib. | 75 Barberry Drops . > eae 
 53 Bon-bons . . . 25 | 76 Cinnamon Drops . 1b. 
 54 Different sorts of Bonthens 26 | 77 Clove Drops : » ‘tee 
 55 Transparent Bon-bons . ib. | 78 Vanilla Drops . - ib, 
 56 Bon-bons prepared with Li- 79 Angelica Drops . .. 38 
 queurs ib. | 80 Orgeat Drops : . pie 
 
 _ 57 Vegetables and F ruits in 81 Peppermint Drops ee 
 Sugar . 27} 82 Lemon Drops . ea is 
 
 58 Chesnuts with Beat - ib. | 83 Vinegar Drops . Jie 
 59 Natural Fruit ©. - 28 | 84 Pine-Apple Drops . 39 
 60 Light Fruits, and of a Na- 85 Caraway Drops . » 1D. 
 tural Size : . 29 | 86 Poppy Drops ‘ ela | 
 
 61 Artificial Strawberries ., 30 | 87 Raspberry Drops ee 
 62 Small Sausages. . ib. | 88 Drops of two colours . ae 
 63 Imitation of Ham - ib. | 89 Ginger Drops . . Ib. 
 64 Of Liqueur Drops . 31 | 90 Catechu Drops . 40 
 65 To make Liqueur Drops . 32 | 91 Prawlings : tee 
 66 Round Liqueur drops in 92 White Prawlings - ib. 
 one piece : - 33 | 93 Almond Prawlingsin Red ib: 
 
 67 Jewel Liqueur Drops . ib. | 94 Natural Almond Prawlings 41 
 68 Liqueur Rings for Candy 34 | 95 White Almond Prawlings ib. 
 
 69 A new sort of Candy - ib. | 96 Pistachio Prawlings . ib: 
 70 Liqueur Drops of different 97 Nut Prawlings . =a 
 
 shapes . ; 35 | 98 Orange-Flower Prawlings 42 
 71 Of Drops - ib. | 99 Rose Harlequin Pistachios ib. 
 72 Orange-Flower Drank . 36 
 
 Section IV. CHOCOLATE. 
 
 100 Chocolate Harlequin Pis- 104 Chocolate Drops in Moulds 45 
 tachios : . 43 | 105 Vanilla Chocolate Drops _ ib. 
 
 101 Cocoa Nuts : - ib. | 106 Cocoa Nutsin Sugar . 46 
 
 102 Chocolate ; 44 | 107 Catechu Seeds . bee 
 
 103 Chocolate Drops, with; 108 Flavoured Catechu o> abe 
 Nonpareils . ~ 45 
 
 Section V. Or SYRUPS. 
 
 109 Of Syrups ‘ 47 | 114 Mulberry Syrup . «, 49. 
 110 Orgeat Syrup , ib. | 115 Barberry Syrup . sities 
 111 Raspberry Syrup. 48 | 116 Strawberry Syrup Cae 
 112 Currant Syrup ‘ ib. | 117 Raspberry-Vinegar Syrup. ib, 
 
 113 Morello-Cherry Syrup ib. | 118 Capillaire Syrup . 7) ie 
 
CONTENTS. 
 No, Page| No. 
 119 Lemon Syrup . » 50 | 123 Syrup of Pinks . ‘ 
 120 Coffee Syrup . + ib. | 124 Violet Syrup. : 
 121 Wormwood Syrup . ib. | 125 A necessary Observation 
 
 122 Marsh-Mallow Syrup 
 
 Section VI. 
 
 » dl upon all Syrups 
 
 Or MARMALADES. 
 
 126 Of Marmalades 53 | 132 Pear Marmalade F 
 127 Green Apricot Raticalads ib. | 183 Orange Marmalade . 
 128 Ripe Apricot Marmalade 54 | 134 Peach Marmalade : 
 129 Cherry Marmalade . ib. | 135 Barberry Marmalade 
 
 130 Raspberry Marmalade ib. | 136 Black-Currant Marmalade 
 131 Plum Marmalade . 55 | 137 Pine-Apple Marmalade 
 
 SecTion VII. 
 
 138 Of Jellies 
 139 Currant Jelly 
 
 140 Cherry Jelly ‘ 
 141 Raspberry Jelly . 
 
 Or JELLIES. 
 
 . 57 | 142 Black-Currant Jelly 
 ib. | 143 Apple Jelly 
 58 | 144 Quince Jelly : 
 ib. | 145 Barberry Jelly . ° 
 
 Section VIII. Or FRUIT AND OTHER PASTES. 
 
 146 Of Fruit Pastes 
 147 Apple Paste 
 
 148 Quince Paste 
 149 Currant Paste 
 150 Cherry Paste 
 
 151 Apricot Paste 
 152 Plum Paste 
 
 153 Peach Paste 
 
 154 Raspberry Paste . 
 
 Section IX, 
 
 162 Of preserved Fruits 
 163 Wet Cherries 
 
 164 Dried Cherries 
 
 165 Whole Cherries . 
 
 59 | 155 Orange Paste 
 ib. | 156 Lemon Paste . : 
 60 | 157 Black-Currant Paste or 
 ib. Drops . 
 . ib.| 158 Marsh-Mallow Paste 
 61. | 159 Liquorice Paste , 
 ib. | 160 Jujube Paste 
 62 | 161 Orgeat Paste 
 chats 
 
 Or PRESERVED FRUITS. 
 
 65 | 171 Apricots filled with other 
 66 Fruits : 
 ib. | 172 Apricots preserved, with. 
 67 out fire . 
 
 166 Dried Cherries in Satie i 
 167 Green Apricots, wet 5 ity 
 168 Green Apricots, pared, wet 68 
 169 Ripe Apricots wet se ae 
 170 Ripe Apricots, pared, wet 69 
 
 173 Raspberries, wet . 
 
 174 Diy Raspberries . 
 
 175 Walnuts, wet . 
 
 176 Green Gages, wet 
 
 177 Mirabelle Plums, wet 
 b3 
 
 Xxlli 
 
 Page 
 
 51 
 ib. 
 
 52 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XXIV 
 No. Page| No. Page 
 178 Pears, wet 72 | 189 Chesnuts r a | 
 179 Peaches, wet 73 | 190 Green Hops, wet » “4b 
 180 Figs,wet  . ‘ 74 | 191 Whole Pine-Apple 78 
 181 Quinces, wet ib. | 192 Pine-Apple Chips . ak 
 182 Oranges cut in Figures 75 | 193 Green Gooseberries > oe 
 183 Whole Orange Peels ib. | 194 Cucumbers, or Gerkins . ib. 
 184 Lemons cut in Figures ib. | 195 Damsons, wet ib: 
 185 Cedraty : . 76 | 196 Mogul Plums , 80 
 186 Lemon Chips. . ib. | 197 Currants in bunches ib. 
 187 Orange Chips. . ib. | 198 On Candying Fruit - 8) 
 188 Angelica ‘ - ib. | 199 Clear Cakes . i ab 
 Section X. Tur STOVE, AND DEGREE OF HEAT. 
 200 The Stove ; 82 | 201 Degree of Heat . . 82 
 Section XI. Or TABLETS AND ROCK SUGAR. 
 202 Conserve Tablets « 83 | 208 Chocolate Tablets 85 
 ~ 203 Orange-Flower Tablets . ib. | 209 Rock Sugar » ab; 
 204 Fruit Tablets . 84 | 210 Mushroom in Rock Sugar 86 
 205 Flour and Essence Tablets ib. | 211 Vases in Rock Sugar » jab, 
 206 Pistachio Tablets . ib. | 212 Eggs in Rock Sugar 87 
 207 Almond Tablets 85 | 213 Eggs in grained Sugar . ib, 
 Section XII. Or COMPOTES. 
 214 Compotes 88 | 227 Pear Compote with Wine 91 
 215 Green Apricot Compotes ib. | 228 Apple Compote eh 
 216 Green Almond Compote 88 | 229 Apple Compote in Jelly 92 
 217 Green Gooseberry Compote 89 | 230 Stuffed Apple Compote ib. 
 218 Cherry Compote . ib. | 231 Quince Compote ib. 
 219 Raspberry Compote ib. | 232 Nut Compote  . > ab; 
 220 Currant Compote . ib. | 233 Barberry Compote 93 
 221 Ripe Apricot Compote 90 | 234 Chesnut Compote - ib, 
 222 Whole Apricot Compote. ib. | 235 Strawberry Compote ib. 
 223 Plum Compote - ib. | 236 Elder Flower Compote . ib. 
 224 Peach Compote . . ib. | 237 Compote of Orange Peel 94 
 225 Pear Compote . ib. | 238 Orange Compote 7 ah 
 226 Broiled Pear Compote . 91 | 239 Masked Compotes 2 tbe 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 SecTION XIII. 
 
 No. Page 
 240 Of Comfits ; « 35 
 241 Almond Comfits 7 bi 
 
 242 Comifits in Liqueurs , 203 
 243 Almonds with Vanilla . ib. 
 244 Almond Comfits of various 
 
 XXV 
 
 Or COMFITS. 
 
 No. Page 
 
 250 Cinnamon Comfits - 160 
 251 Angelica Comfits - lol 
 252 Lemon Comfits «AD, 
 253 Celery Comfits és gids 
 254 Cherry Comfits 102 
 255 Barberry Comfits «(23D 
 256 Caraway Comfits <a. 
 
 257 Comfitsin Gum Paste . ib. 
 
 258 Nonpareils 103 
 
 259 To Colour Nonpareils ._ ib. 
 
 Section XIV. Or FRUIT PRESERVED WITHOUT 
 SUGAR. 
 
 flavours : - 98 
 245 Rose Almonds . e 3D, 
 246 Cinnamon Almonds +. “ibs 
 247 Egg Comfits A «SEB 
 248 Nut Comfits ‘ « (99 
 249 Pistachio Comfits Pa 
 260 Fruit preserved without 
 
 Sugar ; 104 
 261 Bottled Apricots e* by 
 262 Pulped Apricots 105 
 263 Currant Juice - ib. } 
 
 Currant Juice, another way 106 
 
 SECTION XV. 
 
 267 Of Creams : 107 
 268 Whipt Cream . 4 ae 
 269 Chocolate Whipt Cream 108 
 270 Coffee Whipt Cream ib. 
 271 Vanilla Whipt Cream . 108 | 
 
 264 Juice of various Fruits 106 
 265 Of preserved Fruits in 
 general : ib. 
 
 266 Composition for Bis. Bg 
 
 Section XVI. Or ICES. 
 
 275 Of Ices . - 110 
 276 Custard for Ices v 4d 
 277 Chocolate Ice Cream 112 
 278 White Coffee Ice Cream ib. 
 279 Tea Ice Cream * <alk 
 280 Vanilla Ice Cream aah 
 281 Cinnamon Ice Cream 113 
 282 Pistachio Ice Cream «> vib: 
 283 Chesnut Ice Cream +: ABD. 
 284 Spanish-Nut Ice Cream ib. 
 285 Orgeat Ice Cream 114 
 
 the Corks of the Bottles 107 
 Or CREAMS. 
 272 Orange and Lemon 
 -— Whipt Cream . 
 273 Strawberry Whipt cre ib. 
 274 Rose Whipt Cream ib. 
 286 Plain Ice Cream 5. Ee 
 
 287 Brown-Bread Ice Cream 1]4 
 288 Maraschino Ice Cream ib. 
 289 Noyau Ice Cream « 44De 
 , 290 Orange-Flower Ice Cream 115 
 291 Strawberry Ice Cream . ib. 
 292 Raspberry Ice Cream . ib. 
 293 Currant Ice Cream pee 
 294 Pine-Apple Ice Cream . ib. 
 
 295 Strawberry Water Ice . ib. 
 
 296 Raspberry WaterIce . 116 
 
 109 
 
XXVI CONTENTS. 
 No. Page, No. Page 
 267 Currant Water Ice 116 | 308 Orange Water Ice ib. 
 298 Cherry Water Ice ib. | 309 Champagne Water Ice ib. 
 299 Apricot Water Ice ib. | 310 Punch Water Ice ‘.. 
 300 Peach Water Ice » 117 | 311 Bomba Ice . 19 
 301 Apple Water Ice ib. | 312 Pine-Apple Water Ice ib. 
 302 Pear Water Ice ib. | 313 Grape Water Ice ib. 
 303 Barberry Water Ice ib. | 314 Ices in Fruit Shapes 120 
 304 Lemon Water Ice ib. | 315 Observations on Winter 
 305 Maraschino Water Ice 118 Ices " .) BE 
 306 Cedraty Water Ice ib. | 316 Ice Well ‘ e \ Ibs 
 307 Ginger Water Ice ot 
 Section XVII. Or FRUITS IN BRANDY. 
 317 Fruitin Brandy - 123 | 320 Green Gagesin Brandy 124 
 318 Peaches in Brandy 124 | 321 Cherriesin Brandy  . 125 
 319 Apricots in Brandy ib. 
 Section VIII. Or CLEAR JELLIES AND PIECES 
 . MONTEES. 
 322 Clear-Jellies, and Pieces 335 Vanilla Jelly . . 130 
 Montées 126 | 336 Lemon Jelly ib, 
 323 Clear Jelly 127 | 337 Coffee Jelly 131 
 324 To Clarify Isinglass ib. | 338 Tea Jelly ib. 
 325 Venus’s Clear Jelly ib. | 339 Arrack or Rum Jelly ib. 
 326 Orange-Flower Jelly 128 | 340 Liqueur Jelly . ib. 
 327 Strawberry Jelly ib, | 341 Whisked Jellies ib. 
 328 Currant Jelly ib. | 342 Macedoine Jelly 132 
 329 Cherry Jelly 129 | 343 Blane Manger, or Orgeat 
 330 Orange Jelly ie ds Jelly ; iB 
 331 Grape Jelly ib. | 344 Piece Montées Baskets, 
 332 Pine-Apple Jelly 130 Vases, Pavilions, ,and 
 333 Apricot Jelly ib. other Articles, as Orna- 
 334 Barberry Jelly ab lik ments in Spun Sugar 133 
 Section XIX. Or CONFECTIONERY PASTE, &c., 
 345 Pate d’Office, or Confec- 300 Rock Piece Montée in 
 tionery Paste 134 a Lake Madd 5, 
 346 Confectionery Paste in 351 Royal Iceing . . 138 
 Colours ib. | 352 Of Grass, and small 
 347 Coloured Sugars &. NSS Trees, or Bushes Tb: 
 348 Of Colouring Almonds . 136 | 353 Marble Biscuits s 189 
 349 Almond Paste ib. | 354 Green Biscuits ib, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XXVil 
 
 Section XX. Or LOZENGES AND WAFERS. 
 
 No. Page, No. Page 
 395 Rose Lozenges . 140 | 359 Lozenges in general 141 
 356 Cinnamon Lozenges . ib. | 360 Wafers ale 
 357 Orange-Flower Lozenges ib. | 361 Neapolitan Wafers 142 
 
 362 Flemish Wafers a 
 
 358 Tablets of Marsh Mallows 141 
 
 Section XXI.. Or COOL DRINKS FOR BALLS, ROUTES, &c. 
 
 363 Currant, Cherry, Straw- 
 berry, and igesiad 
 Waters 143 
 
 SEcTION XXII. 
 
 367 Of Ovens . 145 
 368 Rich Plum Cake ges | 
 369 Patience Biscuits 146 
 370 Queen Cakes or Drops ._ ib. 
 
 371 Champagne Biscuits , 447 
 372 Savoy Biscuits yy Ae 
 373 Sponge Biscuits 148 
 374 Biscuits in Cases ie, 
 375 Italian Cakes . 149 
 376 Almond Hearts » 150 
 377 Orange Hearts 3, Cab, 
 378 Biscuits of different tastes 151 
 379 Lemon Cakes ie 2 
 330 Brown-Bread Biscuits 152 
 381 Spanish Bread . a ae 
 382 Geneva Biscuits eres en 
 
 383 Chesterfield Biscuits mes AY 
 
 384 Nut Biscuits , . 154 
 385 Savoy Cake : aaa if 
 386 Almond Cakes . aes 
 387 General Observations on 
 Biscuits 155 
 
 388 Fine Spongati Italian Cake ib. 
 389 Another sort of Spongati, 
 
 or Italian Christmas Cake 156 
 390 Rice Cake with Butter 157 
 391 Rice Cake without Butter ib. 
 392 Fine Rusks w dae Sy, 
 393 Almond Biscuits <c4168 
 
 364 Orgeat Water 144 
 365 Lemonade : => 9bG 
 366 Orangeade ; + RS 
 THE OVEN. 
 394 Pistachio Biscuits Ame 113 
 395 Aniseed Biscuit, Wolves’ 
 Teeth . 5h de 
 396 Chesnut Biscuits . 159 
 397 German Biscuits 3 BD 
 398 Cream Biscuits a Ae 
 399 Another Cream Biscuit ib. 
 400 Coffee Biscuits . 160 
 
 401 Chocolate Biscuits - . ib. 
 402 Biscotini Pistachios 
 403 Biscotini Almonds maine 2% 
 404 Mustacioli Biscuits «EBs 
 
 405 Firenze Biscuits 162 
 406 Gimblettes Mes 
 407 Apple-Biscuits 163 
 408 Bitter Macaroons wer aie 
 409 French Macaroons 164 
 410 Light Macaroons ole 
 411 English Macaroons 165 
 
 412 Chocolate Macaroons ._ ib. 
 
 413 Spice Macaroons $0 BO 
 414 Fasting Macaroons - 166 
 415 Ratafia Biscuits Pee 
 416 Almond Wafers 167 
 417 Fancy Biscuits Pe a 0 
 
 418 Fancy Biscuits, pushed 
 with a Syringe 
 
 419 Mould Fancy Biscuits . ib. 
 
 420 Walnut Biscuits 
 
XXViil CONTENTS. 
 
 No. Page| No. Page 
 421 Walnut Biscuits - 169 | 432 Cocoa Biscuits eS, OS 
 422 Moss Biscuits . ib. | 433 Cinnamon Stick Biscuits _ ib. 
 423 Italian Wafers 170 | 434 Cinnamon Blow Biscuits ib. 
 424 Almond Faggots . ib. | 435 Little Blow Biscuits 175 
 425 Zephyr Biscuits . 171 | 436 Wafer Biscuits “> oe 
 426 Gingerbread Nuts . ib. | 437 Dry Meringues “it 26 
 
 427 Flat Gingerbread Nuts 172 
 
 438 Italian Meringues er abe 
 
 428 Ginger Cakes with Butter ib. | 439 White Meringues 177 
 429 Ginger Cakes, without 440 Light Meringues oe 
 
 Butter . ib. |} 441 Meteors ; 178 
 430 Shrewsbury Cakes . 173 | 442 Water Cakes . « ae 
 431 Portugal Cakes Perey : 
 
 Section XXIII. Or DISTILLATION—Or SPIRITS, 
 LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS, &c. &e. 
 
 443 Of Distillation 179 | 466 Bourdeaux Aniseed - 186 
 444 Rose Water. - 180 | 467 Spirit of Cloves wt: Abs 
 445 Orange-Flower Water. 181 | 468 General Observations on 
 446 Distilled Waters of all Spirits ; at a 
 
 ‘Kinds : : ib. 
 447 Of Spirits for Liqueurs ib. 
 448 Spirits of Violets 182 
 449 Maraschina 5 aa 
 450 Cordial Spirit of Vanilla ib. 
 
 451 Spirit of Barbadoes Cream 183 
 452 Spirit of Angelica pas 
 453 Spirit of Orange oo es 
 454 Aniseed Spirit 0 BY ges 
 455 Spirit of Cinnamon ot pA 
 456 Spirit of Cedratys 184 
 457 Spirit of Pinks ene 
 458 Spirit of Escubac <p 83D 
 459 Spirit of Venus eel 
 460 Spirit of Coffee Pan 5 
 461 Spirit of Tea ‘ 185 
 462 Spirit of Almonds ib. 
 463 Spirit of Cuirasseau <1. Ds 
 464 Spirit of Pericot ib. 
 
 465 Kirchewasser, or aire 
 Cherries ° a aD. 
 
 469 Liqueur made with Spirits 187 
 470 Of Colouring Liqueurs. ib. 
 471 Ratafias d oe 
 472 Ratafias of Cherries . kee 
 473 Another Ratafia of 
 
 Cherries ; bei | - 
 474 Ratafia from four Fruits __ ib. 
 475 Ratafia of Black Currants 189 
 476 Badiane . : pe ah 
 477 Ratafia of Orange «iD 
 478 Ratafia of Raspberries . ib 
 479 Ratafia of Currants ae 
 
 480 Ratafia of Mulberries . 190 
 481 Vespitro ; oa ADs 
 482 Ratafia of Orange-Flowers ib. 
 483 Yellow Escubac aioe cs 
 484 Ratafia of Green Walnut 
 Shells ° ; 191 
 415 Angelica Ratafia hs 
 
 486 Ratafia of Red Pinks, ._ ib: 
 
CONTENTS, XX1X 
 
 Section XXIV. Or GUM AND OTHER PASTES. 
 
 No. Page | No. | Page 
 487 Of Gum Paste . 192 | 492 Drying Oil Paste . 194 
 488 Fine Gum Paste - 193 | 493 Alabaster Paste, which 
 489 Common Gum Paste .._ ib. will resist Damp, and 
 490 Rice Gum Paste - 194 all sorts of Insects 195 
 
 491 Plaster Gum Paste eae 
 
 SEction XXV. Or MODELLING FLOWERS, ANIMALS 
 FIGURES, &c. 
 
 494 On Modelling Flower's in 504 Figures in Moulds 4 db. 
 fine Gum Paste 199 | 505 To pushin the Mould . _ ib. 
 495 Pinks . . . ib. | 506 Of fixing Borders . 201 
 496 Jasmine , . 197 | 507 Of Modelling in Gum Paste ib. 
 497 Fruitin Gum Paste . 197 | 508 To reduce a large Figure 
 
 498 Horns in Gum Paste . 198 by a Scale of Squares . ib. 
 499 Shellsin Gum Paste . ib. | 509 On Modelling Figures in 
 
 500 Pastilles, Mille-Fleurs ib. Gum Paste. « 202 
 501 - Jewel Fruit in Gum Paste 199 | 510 On Modelling Animals in 
 
 502 Small Animals in fine Paste ib. Gum Paste ‘ 9 ib. 
 
 503 Animals in common Paste 200 | 511 Birds in Gum Paste . ib. 
 
 Section XXVI. Or COLOURS FOR CONFECTIONERY. 
 
 512 Of Colours for’ Confec- 519 Sap Green ‘ - 206 
 
 tionery ‘ . 203 | 520 Spinach Green ear’ ibe 
 513 To choose Cochineal . ib. | 521 Ivory Black ewe Sas 
 514 Of preparing Cochineal ib. | 522 Prussian Blue . . tee 
 515 Carmine . . ib. | 523 Vermilion and Cinabar 207 
 516 Vegetable Carmine - 205 | 524 Bol Ammoniac orate 
 517 Gamboge : - ib. | 525 Of Using Colours eh 
 518 Saffron . A . 206 | 526 Colours goodtoeat . ib. 
 
 Section XXVII. Or VARNISHING AND GILDING. 
 
 527 Varnish for Gum Paste 208 | 530 Oil Gilding : ~ 209 
 528 Of Gilding Gum Paste ib. | 531 Method of preparing Lin- 
 529 Burnished Gilding . 209 seed Oil for Size . 210 
 
KXX CONTENTS. 
 
 Section XXVIII. Or MOULD-MAKING, MOULDING, 
 AND MODELLING IN WAX. 
 
 No. Page |] No, Page 
 532 Of Mould-Making » 210} 536 Plaster Moulds . 213 
 533 Stucco Moulds . . 211 | 537 Modelling in Wax ... ate 
 534 Sulphur Moulds » 212 | 538 Another Modelling in 
 
 535 Leaden Moulds ; ao, Wax, Flesh-coloured ib. 
 
 SEcTION XXIX. Or DECORATION, OF WORKS IN PASTE- 
 BOARD, GOLD AND SILVER PAPER-FOIL, &c. &c. 
 
 539 Of Decoration . - 215 | 548 Borders in Gold and Silver 
 
 540 To make Pasteboard ._ ib. Paper . . > 220 
 
 541 Paste to make Pasteboard216 | 549 English Borders .. (ab 
 
 542 Paste for joining Paste- 550 Of Foil in Copper and 
 
 board : ao ay Pewter : . Bak 
 
 543 Silver Paper . . ib. | 551 Of the Construction of an 
 
 544 Gold Paper. oe EB Assiette Montée -. 222 
 
 545 Plate, or Size, for Bur- 552 Worksin Pasteboard . 223 
 nished Paper . . 218 | 553 Paste made of Pasteboard 
 
 546 Columns in Wood, gilt 219 or Paper : . 224 
 
 547 Gildingin Oil . - ib. | 554 Spun Glass . ~ B25 
 
 Section XXX. ENGRAVING ON IRON AND STEEL. 
 
 555 To make Tools for cutting Borders . , . 5, 226 
 
 Section XXXI. ENGRAVING ON WOOD. 
 656 Engraving on Wood . . a . : - 228 
 
THE 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Section I.—OF SUGAR. 
 
 No. 1. Of Sugar. 
 
 Loar-suear should be fine, white, dry, and difficult to 
 break, and present a sparkling appearance when broken, 
 As fine a syrup may be obtained from the common as 
 from the double-refined loaf-sugar, if it be clarified in 
 the same manner as moist sugar. This may be done with 
 less trouble than with the whites of eggs only, if the ap- 
 paratus be used which is described in plate I. fig. 1. 
 This consists of a boiler, with a cock at the bottom, 
 which -serves to convey the syrup into the strainer, or 
 woollen bag, and thence into the reservoir. After with- 
 drawing the first produce, which is black, and putting 
 it again into the boiler, the syrup which continues to flow 
 after the deposit is formed in the strainer, will be very clear 
 and fine in the reservoir. This done, put boiling water 
 into the boiler, and closing the reservoir, receive the water, 
 which carries with it the particles of sugar attached to the 
 charcoal. ‘This may be used again, or you may evapo- 
 rate it by ebullition, and return it into the consistence of 
 syrup, to be added to the mass. ‘There is a great va- 
 riety in the qualities of different sugars; they do not all 
 give the same result when worked: some sugar appears 
 not near the crack, if you judge by the boiling only; 
 B 
 
2 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 therefore be careful, for it may burn in an ‘instant, and 
 adopt the means prescribed, (Caramel, No. 12), to pre- 
 -vent its graining, as there are twenty ways to grease it, but 
 not one to make it grain when it is greasy. Sugar will 
 not ferment nor be fermented, without yeast; being dis- 
 solved in four times its weight of water, that is, four 
 pounds of water to one of sugar. When once the fer- 
 mentation begins, it continues to the end. 
 
 No. 2. Yo clarify Loaf-Sugar. 
 
 Break the sugar you want into a copper pan, which 
 will hold a third more than the required quantity; put 
 about half a pint of water to every pound of sugar, and 
 beat up some whites of eggs with it : one is sufficient for 
 six pounds of sugar; (some confectioners put the yolk 
 and shells with the whites crusted together, but this only 
 adds to the scum): put it on the fire, and when it rises 
 in boiling, throw in alittle cold water, which must always 
 be kept at hand in a basin, in case the sugar should rise 
 rapidly and boil over. Let it rise three times without 
 skimming it; the fourth time skim it well, throwing in 
 a little cold water each time, till the white scum ceases 
 to rise ; then strain it through a sieve, cloth-strainer, or 
 flannel bag.—(See plate I. fig. 2.)—Save the scum for 
 use. When a certain quantity of scum is taken off, it 
 may be clarified; the latter skimming may be reserved, 
 to add to fermented wines. 
 
 No.3. To clarify coarse brown Sugar. 
 
 Take as much brown sugar as you wish to clarify, (sup- 
 pose fifty pounds) ; put it into a pan that will contain a 
 third more than the required quantity, and pour in about 
 twenty pints of water, first well mixed with five whites of 
 eggs. Take five pounds of small branch charcoal, pound 
 
¥ 
 
 ‘ ITALIAN CONFECTIONER: 3 
 
 it very fine, mix it in the copper pan while on the fire, 
 and let it boil; it will look as black as ink. If it rises 
 too fast add cold water; strain it through a bag: at first 
 it will be black, but continue to strain it till quite clear, 
 which will be readily seen by receiving the syrup in a 
 
 glass. It must be repeatedly put back again, till it comes. 
 
 out as fine as clarified loaf-sugar. 
 
 No. 4. A new method of clarifying Suyar to an ex- 
 
 _ treme whiteness, not to be equalled, fit for Liqueur 
 Drops, Bon-bons, and Objects extremely White. 
 
 Take a loaf of fine white crystallized sugar, suppose ten 
 pounds ; ; break it in pieces, and put it in a pan with two 
 quarts of water, in which beat up one pound of ivory- 
 black, and two whites of eggs whipped up; melt it ona 
 moderate heat, and take care your sugar does not boil; 
 add a little cold water occasionally, to prevent ebullition ; 
 when the whole is well melted, pass it through a flannel 
 bag: at first it will run quite thick, but by returning it 
 
 for a time back into the bag, it will at length become as. 
 
 clear as spring water. This syrup is kept for the most 
 delicate sort of work. 
 
 No. 5. Degree of boiling the Sugar. 
 
 Confectioners, in general, have seven essential degrees 
 of boiling sugar, or bases of their art: 1. Le lissé, or 
 thread, large or small;—2. Le perlé, or pearl ;—3. 
 Le soufflet, the blow ;—4. La plume, the feather ;—9. 
 Le bhoulet, the ball, large or small;—6. Le cassé, the 
 crack ;—and, 7, The caramel. 
 
 B 2 
 
 * 
 
@ 
 
 * * 
 a“. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 No. 6. A Thread, 
 
 Dip the tip of your fore-finger into the syrup, and pa 
 it to your thumb; on parting them, you will find a 
 thread, which will el at a little distance, and remain 
 as a drop on the finger: this is the small thread: if the 
 thread be longer, it is the great thread. at 
 
 ro 
 
 No. 7; A Pearl. 
 
 When you separate your thumb and finger, and the 
 thread reaches, without breaking, from one to the other, 
 it isthe small pearl ; if the finger and thumb be Stretched 
 to their utmost extent, and the thread remain unbroken, 
 it is the large pearl: this may also be known by the 
 bubbles on the boiling sugar, which are round and raised ; 
 but this test is not always sure. 
 
 No. 8. A Blow. 
 
 May be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, 
 shaking it, and blowing through the holes: if, in doing 
 this, sparks of light or bubbles be seen, we may be sure 
 of the blow. 
 
 No. 9. A Feather. 
 
 The larger and greater quantity of bubbles, when blown. 
 Hivaa oll the Sener are the large feather.. 
 
 No. 10. A Ball. 
 
 Dip your finger into a glass of cold water, then into your 
 sugar, and into the water again; if you make your 
 sugar into a small ball, it is the small ball; when larger, 
 and harder, it is the great ball. 
 
: ns *, he Y ie Sis * 
 ‘ ITALIAN CONFECTIONER). | 5 
 
 a 
 
 ° _No, 11, A Crack. 
 
 Dip the same finger into the sugar, and on taking it out, 
 if the sugar that adheres to it breaks in your finger, with 
 a slight noise, and does not stick to the tooth, it is a 
 crack, Boil it again ; and if it break on plunging your 
 finger into the water, it is the great crack: you must be 
 very attentive, for it passes rapidly to caramel, and will 
 burn, if not attended to, in a minute. 
 
 No. 12. A Caramel. 
 
 It breaks, as just observed, making a noise like glass. 
 When the sugar is at the crack, add to it five or six 
 drops of lemon-juice, to prevent its graining, When 
 boiled, take it from the fire, and put the bottom of the 
 pan into cold water, to prevent its burning. The pro- 
 duction of caramel is attended with some difficulty, and 
 great attention is necessary. As we can see in amoment 
 the colour of caramel we wish to obtain, we must use the 
 lemon-juice cautiously, as too large a quantity would 
 spoil the sugar. If no lemon-juice be at hand, a few 
 drops of vineyar, honey, or butter—any acid or grease will 
 smooth the sugar, which is naturally disposed to grain, 
 As the sugar has no longer any moisture, it requires a 
 strong fire; but this must be applied to the body of the 
 sugar only; for, if the fire be too fierce, it will burn the 
 sugar to the sides of the pan, which will completely spoil 
 it. The edges of the pan must be kept clean with a 
 small sponge. 
 
6 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. ¥ 
 
 # 
 
 Section I].—OF CANDIES, &c. 
 
 No. 13. Sugar Candy. 
 
 Canpy is crystallized sugar, congealed and dried into 
 small shining particles. ‘To make sugar candy, you must 
 have a copper or tin mould, of a somewhat conical shape, 
 pierced with holes to receive the threads, which must be’ 
 fastened in.—(See plate I. fig. 3.)—The outside must be 
 covered with double paper, pasted on close, to prevent 
 the sugar from running through; and the mould must be 
 perfectly dry. Have a stove heated to a moderate heat, 
 (see No. 201), and when ready, proceed as follows. 
 
 No. 14. Production of Candy. 
 
 Put into a pan, syrup enough, that is, clarified sugar, 
 (see [No. 2), to fill your moulds; place the pan ona 
 brisk fire, till the syrup comes to the small feather, (see 
 No. 9); skim it well, take the pan from the fire, and 
 pour into it a.small quantity of spirits of wine. If you 
 wish it to sparkle, let it rest till you see a small skin on 
 its surface, which is candy ; take it off with a skimmer or 
 slice, and pour it directly into the mould, which you 
 must place in your stove, the heat of which must be kept 
 at the same degree as described in No. 201, for eight 
 days. You must then drain the candy, by making a 
 hole, and slanting the mould on a basin or pan to receive 
 the drainings; let it drain twelve hours, till it is per- 
 fectly dry, then loosen the paper, by moistening it 
 with warm water; put it near the fire, warm it all 
 round, and turn out the candy, by striking it hard on 
 the table. Put the candy on a sieve in the stove, to 
 finish drying it ; but you must neither touch nor move 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 7 
 
 the candy while in the stove, and an equal heat must 
 be kept up ; for without attending to these precautions, 
 there would be a mash, instead of a candied sugar. 
 Spirits of wine serve to take off the grease, and do not 
 affect the candy, as they soon evaporate: the candy may 
 be made of any colour, by grinding the particular colour 
 in spirits of wine, and adding it as the sugar feathers. 
 
 No. 15. Flowers in Candy. 
 
 Candied flowers, no longer in fashion, are thus made: 
 Pull the flowers to pieces, leaf by leaf, either orange, 
 violet, jonquil, rose, carnation, &c.; weigh three 
 pounds of flowers, and then take six pounds of clari- 
 fied sugar, boiling it to a blow, (see No.8) ; throw in 
 your flowers, take off your pan from the fire, let it rest 
 a quarter of an hour, that the flowers may lose their 
 moisture ; replace the pan on the fire, and let the sugar 
 boil till it comes to a blow ; then immediately pour the 
 contents of the pan into a candy mould, fill it with half 
 sugar and half flowers, and put them into the stove, 
 moderately heated, (see No. 201); leave it twenty-four 
 hours, then make a hole in the sugar, drain and finish 
 it, as in No, 14: it may be cut in any shape, according 
 to fancy. 
 
 No. 16. Fruit in Candy. 
 
 Green apricots, ripe apricots in halves, apricots stuck 
 with green almonds, greengages, mirabelles, barberries: 
 in bunches, cherries, angelica, orange, or any other 
 fruit, being previously preserved in syrup, strained, and 
 passed through warm water, to take off the sugar that 
 adheres to them, which is always greasy, and would 
 prevent them from drying or candying: apple paste, 
 and other pulpy fruit, cinnamon drops, paste of almonds, 
 
8 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 every dry fruit or paste, may be candied. Examine first 
 the fruit you intend to. candy, one by one, and prepare 
 them as above; they must be quite dry; then take a 
 nearly square mould, broader at the top than at the 
 bottom, with wire gratings, (see Plate I. Fig. 4), and 
 place each article, side by side, on the first grating, 
 nearly at the bottom of the mould, so that one does not 
 touch the other. The first sort being thus arranged, 
 take the second, and placing it on the fruit of the first, 
 cover it in like manner; continue thus to the last, which 
 you must cover with a grating, on which place an iron or 
 leaden weight, to fix the whole, and keep it firm; then 
 place your mould or box in the stove, in a moderate 
 heat, (see No. 201); take and boil a sufficient quantity of 
 clarified sugar, to fill up the remaining vacancy in the 
 mould ; take the sugar off as soon as it comes to the 
 little blow, (see No. 8); let it cool, take off, with your 
 skimmer, the little candy formed on it in cooling; pour it 
 into the mould, let it candy without touching it, keeping 
 it an equal heat for ten or twelve hours; then strain it, 
 by uncorking the mould, and slanting it towards a bowl 
 placed to receive the waste syrup. If you wish to 
 ascertain the size of the grain of the candy, place in the 
 four corners of the mould a small piece of whisk; when 
 you draw one out, after ten hours, you may judge by the 
 three others, which you withdraw every hour, of its con- 
 sistence ; let it drain well, and turning it over, let it dry; 
 when it is perfectly dry, turn it over, and striking it on @ 
 table prepared with paper to receive it, take out your 
 gratings, and carefully take off the candied fruit, one 
 after another; cinnamon must be steeped in spirits of 
 wine, or brandy, or you will not be able to cut it ; besides, 
 it opens the pores of the cinnamon, and facilitates the 
 entrance of the sugar in which it must be first prepared, 
 —See the article, Cinnamon. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.. § 
 
 $ave No. 17. Meteors in Candy. 
 
 Make meteors of different colours, (see Meteors) ; put 
 the halves together perfectly dry, and have several 
 moulds made as that represented in plate I. fig. 3, 
 Boil some clarified sugar to the little blow, (see No. 8); 
 put about half an inch in depth of sugar in each mould, 
 place over the syrup in your moulds, your meteors, side 
 by side, and let them touch each other; all your moulds 
 being thus filled, put them into a hot stove (see No. 201) 
 for about an hour, or an hour anda half. You will then 
 find your meteors fixed in a crust, made by the sugar; 
 this crust must be rather strong; boil to the feather 
 (see No.9) some of the same clarified sugar; take a 
 small flat ladle, put the syrup in it, and gradually cover 
 the meteors with it, by pouring it over them, as a cook 
 bastes a joint of meat. When the meteors are well 
 covered with sugar, leave them three hours more in the 
 stove; take out the corks of the moulds, and let them. 
 drain; when quite dry, turn them out on a table, like the: 
 other candies, by striking hard on the pans, 
 
 No. 18. Grapes in Candy. 
 
 Prepare your moulds, as for the meteors, and fill 
 them more than half full of syrup, boiled to the small 
 blow, (see No. 8); take your liqueur drops, or grapes, 
 (see Liqueur Drops), by handfuls, well mixed in colours, 
 and put them in the moulds, in heaps, pressed down to 
 the bottom. Your moulds, thus filled, put them in the 
 stove; in an hour’s time, cover them with fresh syrup 
 boiled to the feather, (see No. 9); three hours after- 
 wards, strain off the syrup as before; when quite dry, 
 turn them out on a table, and separate them with your 
 hand, for they will be in alump. This candy is very 
 pretty. BS , 
 
10 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 19. French Ribbon in Candy. 
 
 With this article may be formed ribbons, small wreaths, 
 knots, lyres, and other little ornaments, which you may 
 candy in the same manner as the meteors.—(See the 
 
 article, French Ribbon). 
 
 No. 20. Orange Candy. 
 
 Choose six large and fine Malta oranges, blanch them 
 like any other fruit, dip them in clean water, cut them 
 into slices cross-ways, neither too thick nor too thin, 
 and put them, as you cut them, into syrup, which 
 must be lukewarm; you must put your syrup on the 
 fire three days running; strain it from the slices, and 
 boil it a few minutes each time: the fourth day boil the 
 syrup to a blow, (see No. 8); throw in your slices of 
 orange, cover them, and boil up once; take them out, 
 put them on gratings to dry; and when the surface is 
 dry, take them out, and candy them like the meteor, 
 To take them from the candy mould, you must wait till 
 they are quite dry and cold, as the slice of fruit being 
 moist within, the candy would easily drop off. 
 
 No. 21. North Pole Candy. 
 
 “Take the yolks of twelve fresh eggs, without any of 
 the whites, beat them up in a small pan or basin with 
 a spoon; pour in three glasses of maraschino, and stir 
 the mixture till it comes toa cream. Have some cla- 
 rified sugar boiled to a blow ; take a funnel with a small 
 bore, pour your composition into it, and let it run into 
 the sugar as it boils, till it is all exhausted, turning 
 your hand, that it may run all over the syrup. It will 
 form a kind of yellow thread; take your pan from the 
 fire, and with a fork take out the threads ; put them on 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. IL 
 
 a grating, in little heaps, about the size of a half-crown, 
 and in the form of rocks; dry them for some hours in 
 the stove, after which you candy them like the others, 
 covering and finishing them as above mentioned. They 
 retain their moisture inside, of a beautiful yellow, well 
 tasted, and it is difficult to guess what they are made 
 of. Youmay add a few pistachios, which, being cut very 
 fine, and stuck in, have a pretty effect. 
 
 No. 22. A Nosegay in Candy. 
 
 Take young melons, about the size of an orange, cut 
 them in slices, about a quarter of an inch. thick, and’ 
 peel them, taking care that the slices be round ; avoid 
 the inside, and make a complete circle. Put them into 
 cold water; blanch them like other fruit, and put them 
 again into cold water; when blanched, take them out, 
 and when dried, put them into a pan, and pour over 
 them a sufficient quantity of clarified sugar to cover 
 them. Your syrup must be light and lukewarm ; put 
 in a few cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon; and, if you 
 please, a little vinegar, as the melon is extremely in- 
 sipid. Drain them for five days, and put your syrup 
 daily to boil, and skim it; the sixth day boil your syrup 
 to a blow, (see No. 8); put in your slices by sliding 
 them in; let them boil over; take your pan from the 
 fire, and with a fork put them in order on your gratings, 
 taking care to turn them when the surface is dry. 
 Candy them as follows, (they should be as transparent 
 as apple jelly): take your candy moulds, prepared and 
 filled with syrup as for the meteors, and the same degree 
 of boiling; place your slices of melon side by side, and 
 let them touch each other; get some liqueur drops, of 
 different colours, forming roses and other flowers, (you 
 must even use the pencil), small bits of sugar, grains of 
 
12 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 eum paste, pistachios shred, small threads of angelica, 
 of cinnamon, and vanilla, extremely fine ; all these small 
 articles must form little nosegays, by placing them in 
 the centres of each circle of melon, on the prepared 
 syrup. You may have small knots of mbbon (made in 
 a mould, engraved on wood) to form the nosegay, and 
 tie it; thus prepared, put them into the stove, and finish, 
 like the other candies: you will have the prettiest candy. 
 
 possible. 
 
 No. 23. Liqueur Rings in Candy. 
 
 Take your rings, made as directed in the article, No. 
 68, (Liqueur Rings), and candy them like the meteors, 
 being covered and finished in the same manner. ‘This 
 article must be prepared with a pen-knife, with which cut 
 out the candy from the centre, that it may form a ring; 
 or you may make small lozenges, oval stars, &c. It is 
 difficult to make a large quantity without some of the 
 rings being touched by the droppings, which prevents 
 them from shining. The Author has constructed a stove 
 on purpose, with boxes, as for the meteors. (See plate 
 I. fig. 6.)\—The twelve boxes being placed in the stove, 
 need not be moved till ready to be taken out when dry; 
 the racks on which they are fixed, turn with an almost 
 imperceptible motion; and the syrup drips slowly and 
 equally, without fear of shaking, or other accident. 
 
 No. 24. Millefruit Candy. 
 
 Make a paste, of gum paste of different (deep) colours, | 
 scents, and tastes, and form them into grains, In the. 
 shape of oats. When dry, and mixed of all colours, 
 prepare your candy moulds with syrup, of half an inch 
 in depth, and boiled to a blow, (see No. 8), as for can 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER: 13 
 
 dies in general; then take your grains by the handful, 
 sprinkle them over the syrup, so as to cover it; put your 
 box in the stove, cover them with syrup, as before men- 
 tioned, and finish them in the same manner. This candy 
 
 may be made with pastilles on a sieve.—See the article, 
 Pastilles, 
 
 No. 25. Harlequin Candy. 
 
 Choose some fine almonds, blanch them by putting 
 them into boiling water, wherein let them remain till 
 you perceive the skins come off freely ; and as you blanch 
 them, throw them into a pan containing some fresh 
 water; when finished, drain, and wipe them well ina 
 cloth ; cut them in two or three slices lengthways ; then 
 put a pound of clarified sugar on the fire to every pound 
 of almonds; reduce it to a feather; at this degree, 
 throw in your almonds, and let the whole boil till your 
 sugar is reduced to a crack; then withdraw quickly 
 your pan from the fire, and with your spatiles move 
 them about to prawline them; by this operation, the 
 sugar clings round the almonds; then sift them, to take 
 away the sugar which does not adhere; separate them 
 In as many parts as you wish to obtain colours, Take 
 care to colour them lightly, and when dry, candy them 
 in the same way as the millefruit candy: they are used 
 to ornament plates, and are pleasing to the eye and to 
 the taste. 
 
 No. 26. Holland Candy. 
 
 Holland candy contains something of all sorts; as pieces 
 of angelica, cinnamon, almonds of all colours, held toge- 
 ther as in the preceding article. 
 
14 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 27. Chocolate Candy. Pte 
 
 Boil fyour 'syrup to a feather, (see No. 9), and pour it 
 into your boxes as usual; let it form a little crust; put 
 in gently the articles previously shaped in chocolate, and 
 push them under with your finger. This chocolate is 
 made in the same manner as for chocolate drops, No. 
 103; you may form rings, hearts, lozenges, long canes, 
 drops, stars, and any other shape which your ingenuity 
 may invent, and the chocolate will take. Cover and 
 finish them as directed in the other candies, except that 
 when drained, and dry, you must take your boxes from 
 the stove, and let them cool, as the chocolate remains in: 
 a liquid state for a considerable time. . 
 
 No. 28. Jelly in Candy. 
 
 This is not only pleasing to the eye, but very agreeable 
 
 to the palate; it has the appearance of being solid, 
 
 and is, notwithstanding, almost a liquid, melting in the 
 
 mouth. To make this candy, you must have leaden 
 moulds of rings, ovals, squares, lozenges, halves of 
 apples, pears, melons, raisins, or grapes, infinitely varied. 
 
 Pour; apple jelly, either red or white, (see No. 143), and 
 when it has formed a little crust, take the moulds out of 
 the stove, and the jelly shapes from the moulds; turn 
 them out on a sheet of tin, and let them crust; when 
 you see the surface dry, turn them on a sieve to finish 
 
 drying, which is a slight crystallization of the dried par- 
 ticles of sugar. You must candy them in the same 
 
 manner as chocolate and others. 
 
 No. 29. Chips in Candy. 
 
 They are preserved in the same manner as fruit: as soon 
 as they are drained from the syrup, they must be twisted 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 45 
 
 round the finger to a certain thickness, and when anys 
 eo 
 
 No. 30. Apple-paste in Candy. 
 
 Lay thin apple-paste on plates of pewter; cut it, when 
 half-dry, in little slips, a quarter of an inch over; form 
 it into knots, rings, and fanciful shapes of different 
 colours; dry them in the stove, and candy them. In 
 this manner may be candied all sorts of fruit pastes, al- 
 monds, pistachio kernels, and gum pastes.—See the 
 several articles. | 
 
 No. 31. | Ball Candy. 
 
 This ball in candy is, without contradiction, a beautiful 
 thing, and capable of puzzling the most skilful confec- 
 tioner, by the curiosity of its construction; it is abso- 
 lutely like a ball in crystal, empty in the interior, light 
 and transparent, as if it was really blown in glass. To 
 make this ball, you must have two pieces of wood, the 
 one concave, and the other convex, about the size of 
 half an egg; cut some pieces of paper of a sufficient 
 size to take the form of half a ball; when pressed be- 
 tween these two pieces of wood, you must fold the paper 
 in small folds, so as to be able to take easily the form of 
 half a ball; having a certain quantity made, you must 
 fill them with powdered loaf-sugar ; this operation being 
 finished, have several moulds made like that represented 
 in plate I. fig.5; boil some clarified sugar to the blow, 
 put about an inch in depth of sugar in each mould; 
 place over the syrup in your moulds your half balls, side 
 by side, so as not to touch each other: all your moulds 
 being thus filled, put them in a hot stove for about six 
 hours ; afterwards strain off the syrup as before; let 
 
16 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 them dry, and close up perfectly during seven or eight 
 hours, then turn your mould upside down on the table, 
 and take out all the powdered sugar which served to re-. 
 tain them in the syrup like a vessel ; then take a camel’s- 
 hair pencil, and with cold water wet the paper in the 
 interior, which will enable you to take off the paper with 
 ease, and the candy fixed round will remain solid and 
 transparent, in half balls; these, when dry, you can 
 smooth, by rubbing them with a fine file, or some scour- 
 ing-paper, so as to make both parts meet with exact- 
 ness, and form a ball, which you will fix with a little 
 gum arabic; you can also paint in the interior some 
 small flowers, a motto, or other ornaments, which pro- 
 duces a pleasing effect. 
 
 No. 32. Orange-flowers in Candy. 
 
 Take some of the whitest prawlined orange-flowers, and 
 place them on a wire, and then in a candying-box, (see 
 plate I. fig. 4), followmg the prescribed method, (see 
 Fruit in Candy); let them remain in the stove eight 
 hours; take them off the wires, by separating them leaf 
 from leaf: this candy is extremely agreeable. | 
 
 No. 33. Jujube in Candy. 
 
 Take some of the finest and whitest gum arabic, dissolve 
 it in a sufficient quantity of orange-flower water. To, 
 every pound of gum, add two ounces of crystallized: 
 sugar; reduce it in the bain marie to a very thick con-. 
 sistence, similar to jelly, without stirring or moving it, 
 which would hinder it from being transparent; pro-. 
 cure a square box of about half an inch in thickness, 
 and fill it with very dry starch powder, and make some 
 small holes in it, of the same size as you wish the pas-. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 17 
 
 tilles to be ; then fill these small holes with your paste, 
 and put it in the stove to dry; when dry, wipe all the 
 starch off perfectly clean, and put them in candy like any 
 other objects, 
 
 Section IIJ.—OF CARAMEL WORK. 
 
 No. 34. Barley-sugar. 
 
 Take a quantity of clarified sugar, boil it to a crack, (see 
 No. 11), and be very exact and attentive to the boiling, 
 as on this will depend the quality of your barley-sugar, 
 When the sugar is near the crack, add to it two or three 
 drops of lemon-juice, to prevent its graining, or a little 
 vinegar or alum dissolved in water; any acid will grease 
 sugar, and prevent it from graining. When it is come to 
 the crack, take it off instantly, and dip your pan in cold 
 water, which will prevent it from becoming a caramel, 
 or burning; let it stand a little, and then pour itona 
 marble, which must be previously rubbed with oil. Cut 
 the sugar into small pieces with a pair of scissars, and 
 throw them to your assistant, who must be ready to roll 
 them out like wax. Expedition is requisite, and the 
 pieces must be as nearly as possible of the same size; 
 there are women in Paris, who can roll six in each hand 
 ata time. You may add any essence you choose ; cit- 
 ron is the commonest, one drop of which will be suffi- 
 cient; too much is unpleasant. This preparation is 
 called barley-sugar, because originally it was made with 
 a decoction of barley. The method of making it, above 
 described, is the best for confectioners who have occasion 
 
18 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 for large quantities. A small portion of barley-sugar 
 may be run in sticks, on a marble, by the spout of the 
 pan; and, when it begins to cool, twist it into a shape; 
 it is then called twisted sugar. 
 
 No. 35. . Barley-sugar Tablets. 
 
 These are made as the last, except that, when the sugar 
 is run on the marble, you must let it cool alittle. Itwill 
 be readily seen whether the sugar gives, by touching it 
 with your hand, as it must not adhere to the finger. 
 Take a tin frame, as in plate I. fig. 7; lean on it, and 
 make the lines deep; when cold it will easily part: take 
 a handful of powdered sugar, and sprinkle the whole, to 
 dry it, and prevent it from sticking together; then put it 
 up in white or coloured papers, according to fancy. 
 
 No. 36. Barley-sugar Drops 
 
 Are made in the same manner as the tablets, except that 
 instead of being poured out at once, they must be drop- 
 ped. Take a funnel, as in plate. I. fig. 8 ; hold it in the 
 left hand, full of sugar; have a small stick in the right 
 hand, and stop the funnel with it; only one drop to be 
 let out ata time. A little practice will enable you to do 
 this quickly and well; the blade of a knife will detach 
 the drops from the marble; strew some powdered sugar 
 over them, and twist them up in papers. 
 
 No. 37. Poppy Drops 
 
 Are made in the same way as barley-sugar, by adding, a 
 minute before the sugar comes tothe crack, (see No. 11), 
 a stong decoction of poppies; they may be cut likethe 
 barley-sugar tablets, (see No. 35), and then put in small 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 19 
 
 boxes without powdered sugar. The wild poppy is better 
 than that cultivated in our gardens; the flower is of a 
 lively red. 
 
 No. 38. French Ribbon. 
 Take clarified sugar, boil it to a crack, (see No. 11) ; add 
 
 to it, an instant before it is done, a quantity of white 
 honey about the size of a filbert, or some lemon-juice ; 
 put in the essence you mean to use the moment it is at 
 the crack, and put the bottom of the pan into cold water, 
 for the reason given in No. 34; let it rest till it ceases 
 boiling, and pour it on an oiled marble. As soon as you 
 can bear the heat, collect the edges quickly into the mid- 
 dle, work and fold it, and handle it till it looks as white as 
 silver, and shines; then divide it into two equal parts ; 
 one to remain white, the other coloured with carmine, in 
 powder. Let your assistant work with you till the two 
 portions become quite brilliant ; unite them, and form one 
 ball of two colours ; flatten this ball in strings between 
 your finger and thumb, and roll it on rollers prepared for 
 the purpose, two or three feet long, and tapering, that the 
 sugar may come off without breaking. You may form 
 this composition into cockades, knots, rings, twists; in 
 short, into any shape you please. The French ribbon 
 may be made of three or four colours, but you must em- 
 ploy as many hands as you can, as it is required to be 
 done quickly: use your colours as dry as possible.—(See 
 
 Colours.) 
 
 No. 39. Caramel Work. 
 
 Caramel is the last degree of heat given to sugar, (see 
 Nos. 11 and 12).—Every article made with sugar boiled 
 to a crack, is, in general, called caramel; as baskets, 
 
20 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 vases, temples, fruits, spun sugar, figures, animals, me- 
 ' dals and a thousand other things, cast in leaden moulds,’ 
 whether for the table, or put up in papers, as a bon-bon, 
 question and answer, rebus, &c, 
 
 No. 40. Pine-apple Tablets. f 
 
 Take half of a pine-apple, cut it in slices, pound it in a 
 mortar, and extract the juice through a cloth; boil the 
 quantity of sugar you desire to a crack; but when you 
 perceive the sugar approaching this degree, you will add, 
 gradually, your juice from the pine ; the whole being em- 
 ployed, and the sugar reduced to its just degree, pour it 
 on a slab, and finish as for barley-sugar tablets. 
 
 No. 41. Barley-sugar Tablets, (Sucre de Pommes). 
 
 Cut half a dozen of fine apples fit to make a jelly; boil 
 them in a glass of water; pass this decoction through a 
 flannel bag; use and finish it like pine-apple tablets. 
 
 No, 42, Ginger Tablets. 
 
 They are made the same as barley-sugar tablets, by add- 
 ing from five to six drops of the essence of ginger, at the 
 moment the sugar is near the crack, 
 
 No. 43. Sugar-tablets, with Elder-flowers. 
 
 Take a pound of elder-flowers to three pounds of sugar; | 
 put your elder-flowers into a pint of water, give it a mi- 
 nute’s boiling; take it off, and let it infuse four hours; 
 clarify your sugar, and reduce it to a crack ; pour in your 
 infusion, previously passed through a cloth; then reduce 
 it again to a crack; pour it out on the slab, and cut it 
 out like the other tablets. These tablets are an excellent 
 remedy for the stomach complaint. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. Al 
 
 ew | No. 44. Fruit in Caramel. 
 
 Prepare (as directed in Nos. 11 and 12) a quantity of 
 sugar, proportioned to that of your fruit; take small 
 pieces of whisk to stick in your fruit; plunge one after 
 the other in the boiling sugar, and place them on a 
 marble stightly rubbed with butter; this fruit is set out on 
 _ cut.or stamped paper, forming Salianiaincntel pyramids, 
 Choose the prettiest preserved fruit you have, dry from 
 the sugar, or preserved in brandy. 
 
 No. 45. Chesnuts in Caramel. 
 
 Take some chesnuts, and roast them in a pan on the fires 
 when peeled, stick into each a piece of whisk; dip them 
 in your sugar, and lay them on the marble; or, if you 
 would form them into a basket, place them side by side 
 in a mould for that purpose, slightly buttered, and raise 
 them progressively to the required height ; which you 
 may also do without a mould, by putting a drop of cara- 
 mel between them. Having finished placing the ches- 
 nuts, you may ornament them with little flowers, or 
 horns, rings, wreaths, &c. all in gum paste, and coloured 
 with other trifles in candy. 
 
 No. 46. Orange Quarters in Caramel. 
 
 Peel, and divide into quarters, some fine oranges; care- 
 fully take off the pith, put them for a short time in the 
 stove, stick them with pieces of whisk, and dip them in 
 the caramel, as the other fruits. Serve them up de- 
 tached, or in a basket, similar to the chesnuts. Cherries, 
 apples, and grapes also, whether in brandy, or fresh, may 
 be done the same way: ornament your baskets as much 
 as possible, forming handles to them with spun sugar in 
 caramel,—(See No, 52). 
 
22 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 47. Quartered Lemons in Caramel. 
 
 Quartered lemons are put in caramel like oranges; they 
 are excellent; many prefer them to oranges, and they 
 make a very pretty plate. 
 
 No. 48. Chantilly Basket. 
 
 It would take up too much time to describe every variety 
 which may be made under this head ; suffice it to say, 
 that every thing that is done in biscuit may be made of 
 pleasing forms, as little rings, lozenges, ovals, squares, 
 stars, meteors, iced or not, fixed to each other with a drop 
 of caramel, and formed to your fancy. These may be 
 also made of paste of almonds, by fixing a case on the 
 outside of a buttered mould, and baking it of a clear 
 brown: covers may be made to the baskets, of spun 
 sugar, formed in mosaic, and some may be cast of the 
 same sugar, into round balls, figures, feet, &c. (as stands 
 for the baskets), in leaden moulds. 
 
 No. 49. Almond Caramel Baskets. 
 
 Take picked almonds, blanched, cut them into long 
 slices, colour them pink with cochineal, in a small copper 
 pan, and put them on a gentle fire, stirring them with 
 your hand till dry. When this is done, take a sheet of 
 copper or tin, rub it with a small quantity of butter, 
 strew your pink almonds on the plate, or rather place 
 them in the form of half the mould, whose shape you 
 choose, and of which you must take a pattern in paper ; 
 the form of the paper must be that of your almonds on 
 the plate. Have some sugar prepared, and spin it over 
 the almonds, (see No. 52); being perfectly spun, your 
 almonds must be all fixed to it; turn it, and spin over 
 the other side ; and, after applying them to your mould, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 23 
 
 fix them together with some of the same sugar; cut off 
 
 _ the waste parts, and finish your basket with ornaments: 
 you may make them with pistachios, of biscuits cut small, 
 or of liqueur drops, the whole being in little pieces. 
 
 No. 50, Nogat. 
 12 oz. Almonds, 7 oz. Sugar. 
 
 Take a small copper pan, in which you put seven ounces 
 of powdered sugar ; place it on a moderate fire, and melt 
 it, stirring it with a spaddle; when equally melted, and 
 it has taken a clear brown colour, put in twelve ounces 
 of almonds, blanched, and cut in lengths, dried the pre- 
 vious day in the stove; you may even colour them by 
 placing them at the mouth of the oven. Every thing 
 being ready, mix your almonds well with the sugar till they 
 are covered with it, and of a clear brown ; pour them on 
 a marble, taking care first to rub it with a small quantity 
 of butter : if you wish to give it a shape, have a mould of 
 copper, or tin, slightly buttered ; and that you may not 
 burn your fingers, spread it with a lemon or carrot, as 
 thin and even as possible. When cold, take it off from 
 the mould, taking care, while it is still warm, to detach it 
 on all sides. 
 
 No. 51. Cake Nogat. 
 
 This nogat may be made in moulds, or square pieces, 
 which may be flattened on the stone, cut with a knife in 
 all sorts of forms to ornament plates, made into rocks, 
 &c, decorated with sugar, in colours, or white. 
 
 No. 52. Of spinning Sugar. 
 
 You must have moulds of vases, baskets, &c. or any 
 shape you may choose, either in copper, tin, or glass; 
 
24 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 they must be made so as to deliver well, inside and out, 
 and must be rubbed with butter as slightly as possible ; 
 sugar spun inside the mould is always better than that 
 spun outside, as you may strengthen it with the threads 
 that fly over by the motion of your arms, and the sugar 
 will look smoother and more finished than when it is 
 done on the outside. Take clarified sugar of the neces- 
 sary proportion to the size of your mould, and boil it in 
 a copper pan, which must be perfectly clean, and have a 
 small sponge, dipped in clean water and squeezed out, to 
 keep the inside edge of the pan free from sugar bubbles, 
 which will not fail to fix there while it boils to a crack. 
 (See No. 11).—At the precise moment when this takes 
 place, add a drop or two of lemon-juice to grease it a 
 little, that the sugar may not grain. (See No. 12).— 
 Any acid, or even apple-jelly, if at hand, will answer the 
 same purpose. 
 
 Your sugar being ready, take the pan from the fire, let 
 it cool a little, then have a spoon, or two forks united, or 
 a four-pronged tool, the prongs distant from each other 
 three quarters of an inch, forming a cross; dip it in 
 your sugar, try it by raising up some of it, and spin it by 
 ‘a shake of the hand; if the sugar forms threads easily, 
 hold your mould in your left hand, the tool m the right, 
 moving it backwards and forwards, spinning it inside like 
 silken threads, taking care to let none of it fall in 
 drops, as it would spoil your work; your threads will 
 be coarser if you use the coldest part of the sugar. 
 Strengthen the inside with the sugar which falls on the 
 outside; take the basket, or vase, off the mould, while it 
 is warm, and put it again lightly into your mould, to 
 cool and keep its shape; when cold, ornamentit with 
 various draperies, garlands, and wreaths, of the same 
 sugar, spun on the blade of a knife. Hold the knife in 
 your left hand, and over the back of it spin some of 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 29 
 
 >the thickest threads, or you may likewise spin some on 
 
 -anapkin, or a tin plate; dispose them tastefully on your 
 basket, make handles of the same sugar, twisted or cast 
 in leaden moulds (see No. 263), in the shape of heads, 
 feet, or any other ornament; with spun sugar you may 
 make every required ornament, temples, vases, ships, 
 globes, covers for vases, and even imitate horse-hair on 
 a helmet, &c. 
 
 No. 53. Bon-bons. 
 
 There is a great demand for these articles in France, par- 
 ticularly on New-year’s day; and the various envelopes 
 in which they are put up, display the usual ingennity of 
 this gay and versatile people; fables, historical subjects, 
 songs, enigmas, jeux de mots, and various little gallan- 
 tries, are all inscribed upon the papers in which the bon- 
 bons are inclosed, and which the gentlemen present to 
 the females of their acquaintance But as this custom is 
 not pursued. in England, (bon-bons being chiefly used 
 as ornaments to the dessert), we will not detain the 
 reader with any description of the various devices just 
 alluded to, but proceed to describe the method of making 
 bon-bons practised by the author. 
 
 Provide leaden moulds (see that article, No. 473), 
 which must be of various shapes, round, oval, square, 
 lozenge shape, octagon shape, &c. and be oiled with oil 
 of sweet almonds; take a quantity of syrup in proportion 
 to your moulds; boil it to a blow, add a drop of any 
 
 _essence you please, rose, cinnamon, orange-flower, lemon, 
 cedratys, vanilla, bergamotte, &c., and vary the colours 
 according to fancy. If you would have the bon-bons 
 white, when your sugar has cooled a little, stir it round 
 the pan till it grains, and shines on the surface; pour it 
 into a funnel (see plate I. fig. 8), and fill your little 
 
 Cc 
 
26 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER., 
 
 moulds, and it will take a proper form and harden ; when 
 cold, take it from the moulds, let it dry two or three 
 days, and then put it in its paper. If you wish the 
 bon-bons to be coloured, add the colour just as your 
 sugar is ready to be taken off the fire; if the colour be 
 fluid, boil the sugar a little more.—(See Colowrs.) 
 
 No. 54. Different sorts of Bon-bons. 
 
 Boil your sugar to a crack, add to it a drop of any essence, 
 and fill your prepared moulds as directed in the preced- 
 ing article; when cold take out the bon-bons, put them 
 in the stove that the heat may turn them, that is to say, 
 that the sugar may take a crystallization outwardly, 
 which prevents it from becoming damp. Do, not put 
 them over one another, as they will adhere together. 
 
 No. 50. Transparent Bon-bons, 
 
 Boil your sugar to the great blow; take it off, and add 
 a very small quantity of aromatic spirits, either coffee, 
 maraschino, vanilla, &c. Take care not to stir the 
 sugar, lest it should grain; let it rest from boiling before 
 you fill your moulds ; let your moulds be slightly oiled, 
 then pour in your sugar; leave it eight. or ten hours in a 
 stove, with a very slack heat, or im any warm place free 
 from dust: this bon-bon is crystallized, solid, trans- 
 parent, and very good. 
 
 No. 58, on-bons prepared with Liqueurs. 
 
 Take small moulds as for the transparent bon-bons, and 
 the required quantity of double-refined sugar; pound 
 and sift it through a lawn sieve, put it into an earthen 
 pan, and moisten it with a little rose-water, or orange- 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. pag 
 
 flower water, till it forms a stiff paste; add to it a small 
 ‘quantity of spirits, or the liqueur you wish it to taste of, 
 till your paste is of the consistence of thin iceing ; put it 
 on the fire in a copper pan, and keep stirring it; when 
 you see it disposed to rise, and your sugar shines on the 
 surface, stir it, and pour it into your funnel, (see plate I. 
 fig. 8), and fill your little moulds ; when cold, take them 
 out, and put them into a warm stove to dry, a few hours; 
 they are then fit for use. 
 
 No. 57. Vegetables and Fruits in Sugar. 
 
 Take small leaden moulds, (see No. 164), made to open 
 in two, representing the fruit you would imitate; boil 
 your sugar to a blow, and add the colour of your vege- 
 table or fruit, (see colowrs) ; stir your sugar till it grains, 
 and the surface shines; pour it into the moulds with a 
 funnel, such as you use for liqueur drops, (see plate I. 
 fig. 8), and stop the funnel with a little stick every time 
 the mould is full. - If you wish to imitate carrots, colour 
 them with saffron, and stick in bits of angelica, while hot, 
 to form the green top; place the mould so that the head 
 of the carrot will form the mouth of it. Apples, pears, 
 radishes, are to be coloured after they are made, with 
 carmine. ‘Turnip-radishes, mushrooms, eggs, dominos, 
 dice, &c. must be made like conserve, that is, with fine 
 powdered sugar, as they will be much whiter; give each 
 a different taste with essences, or spirits; mushrooms 
 are coloured with chocolate, melted very thin on a warm 
 stove: asparagus, potatoes, everything, in short, may 
 be imitated with moulds. 
 
 No. 58. Chesnuts with Sugar. 
 
 Take a pound of the finest clarified sugar, boil it to a 
 blow ; take it from the fire, and work it as for a con- 
 C2 
 
28 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 serve; take six yolks of eggs, beat them up, and add a 
 glass of maraschino, or any other liqueur. When your 
 sugar is nearly to a conserve, add your eggs, working 
 them well in, till you produce a stiff paste. Put it on a 
 marble with some fine powdered sugar, and roll it into 
 balls, to which you must give the shape of chesnuts, 
 marking stripes as in the real chesnut, when peeled: 
 everything being finished, and imitated in the best man- 
 ner, make a piece of iron wire red-hot, and touch differ- 
 ent parts of the chesnut, to imitate the roasted fruit, 
 which will add to it a taste of caramel. 
 
 No, 59. Nose Fruit. 
 
 Take wooden moulds, representing the kernel of each 
 fruit, as peach, apricot, plum, &c. and fit them to the 
 mould with gum paste, of the colour of the stone; put a 
 small almond in each kernel, and into every kernel a 
 wire, the other end of which must be a little hooked, to 
 attach it toa packthread, which must be stretched across 
 the room to dry and harden, as the stones must be hard ; 
 blanch some sweet almonds the evening before, and 
 pound them in a mortar, with the juice of lemon, not 
 too fine, and take care that they do not oil; add a quan- 
 tity of powdered sugar in proportion to your almonds; 
 form a malleable paste that can be easily worked by the 
 hand, and make the fruit of it, by working the paste 
 round the kernels prepared as above. Your fruit being 
 ready take some clarified isinglass, divide it equally 
 and put the two portions into two little pans; one must 
 be made yellow with saffron, the other red with carmine 
 or cochineal; hold your fruit by the wire stalk, dip one 
 side in the yellow, the other in the red, according to its 
 kind, and hang them to dry; when half-dried, or at least 
 when you can handle them without their sticking to your 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 29, 
 
 fingers, take a powder-bag, that is, a bit of rag, in which 
 you puta little starch powder, and powder your fruit. 
 with it round, to imitate the bloom or down of the fruit; 
 plums must be sprinkled with blue powder, the same 
 way as the starch. These fruits must have a skin like 
 the real fruit, and the isinglass forms this, so that they 
 are soft to the touch, like natural ripe fruit, and feel fresh 
 like it. 
 
 No. 60. Light Fruits, and of a natural size. 
 
 You must first make the moulds in plaster of Paris, 
 made to open in two or three parts, upon some fine and 
 very fresh fruits ; when your moulds are ready, boil to a 
 blow some syrup, clarified with animal black, as stated in 
 the white clarification; when boiled to a blow, let it 
 stand a moment off the fire ; then add to it a tea-spoon- 
 ful of white French vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon; 
 work them with a spattle; this syrup to grain it; and 
 when it begins to whiten, pour it into the plaster moulds, 
 which you have dipped in fresh water a few minutes pre- 
 viously. When your moulds are full, turn them upside 
 down to empty them, and there will remain a portion of 
 sugar congealed in the interior of the mould, which, when 
 cold, by opening the mould, will come out, formed in its 
 natural state. When all your fruits that you desire to 
 obtain, are finished, paint them with water-colours, ac- 
 cording to their nature. 
 
 You must observe not to use any colours but what are 
 wholesome; viz., spinage green, fine carmine, cochi- 
 neal, saffron; and for the imitation of brown spots, use 
 a decoction of coffee, chocolate, and Spanish-liquorice 
 juice: the bloom of the peaches and fruits is applied 
 with fine-pounded sugar. 
 
30 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 61. Artificial Strawberries. 
 
 Make an almond paste, (see Almond Paste(, and roll 
 and cut it to the size of a strawberry ; then work it in 
 your hands, to give it the same form, and fix a piece of 
 whisk in the stalk-end of each; put them, as prepared, 
 ina sieve full of pounded sugar, that they may stand 
 regularly ; have some sugar pounded coarse, then. sift it 
 through a coarse sieve, and a still finer one, to take away 
 the dust... Dip your strawberries into a syrup of rasp- 
 berries, or any other fruit, and then in your sugar, to 
 form the little seeds. The strawberry being dry, take 
 some carmine dissolved in strong gum, that the fruit may 
 shine, and give the colours with a fine hair pencil. When | 
 dry, take out the pieces of whisk, and leave the hole 
 white; put them ina warm place to dry for a few hours, 
 and serve them on plates, with strawberry-leaves. 
 
 No. 62. Small Sausages. 
 
 Take some entrails, which may oe had ready cleaned at 
 the pork-butchers; wash them again very clean; then 
 take some red and white apple, or quince paste, chop it 
 like sausage-meat, and put in, if you choose, some apri- 
 cots, cherries, or any other red or white fruit, with some 
 red and white currants, or any kind of fruit to imitate 
 nature, and a few coriander seeds. Fill the skins, tie a 
 knot at each end with some thread, and roll the sausages _ 
 in your hands, with a drop of oil of sweet almonds. It 
 may be cut lengthways or across: it is an excellent imi- 
 tation of nature,—(For the Paste, see each article sepa- 
 rately). | 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 31 
 
 No. 63. Imitation of Ham. 
 
 Take half a pound of almond paste, (see Almond Paste,) 
 and divide it into three equal parts ; keep one part white, 
 to imitate the fat, and colour the other two portions red, 
 to imitate the lean. Give it, to the best of your power, 
 the shape of a ham, by placing the fat and lean properly. 
 Dissolve some vanilla chocolate (see No. 104) in water, 
 and lay it over the ham, to imitate the rind. Prepare 
 dried macaroons in the oven, and reduce them to powder, 
 to cover your ham, as this will imitate the raspings of 
 bread, usually put on it; it may be cut in slices. With 
 the same paste, many other things of the kind may be 
 imitated, which the taste or fancy may suggest. 
 
 No. 64. Of Liqueur Drops, 
 
 Or drops of syrup prepared for candy. (See No. 14.)— 
 No liqueur is necessary to form the liquid found in 
 them, it being only the moisture of the syrup which the 
 crystallization of the sugar confines there. As a proof 
 of this, liqueur drops may be made transparent, contain- 
 ing liquid in the inside, without putting any liqueur in 
 them. ‘They are also better, if spirits be used instead 
 of factitious liquids. Liqueur drops, whether made in 
 France, or by confectioners, or in private houses in Lon- 
 don, are in general uneven, and extremely irregular, 
 Most confectioners make small paper moulds to hold the 
 drops, and take them off by wetting the back of the 
 paper, as candy and liqueur rings; but this process is 
 tooslow. The following will be found the best method: 
 By pouring the drops on paper, they run, and lose their 
 shape at the least fold in the paper; wooden frames, 
 therefore, are greatly preferable. ‘Take a sufficient num- 
 ber of these, wet your paper with clean water, and let it 
 
32 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 steep ten minutes; then stretch it, fixing it on the frames 
 with gum arabic; as the paper dries, it becomes as tight 
 as a drum, and by that means the drop remains perfectly 
 round, equal, and as it ought to be; the same frames 
 will serve several times, by washing them as soon as the 
 
 drop is off. 
 
 No. 65. To make Liqueur Drops. 
 
 Put the required quantity of syrup into a pan, and boil 
 it to a blow (see No. 8); then add a little liqueur to 
 your taste; as maraschino, noyau, rosolio, Vhuile de 
 Venus, macaroni, cinnamon, &c. ; to make which, see 
 Liqueurs. If you use the spirit of liqueurs, you must 
 put in a less quantity, and boil your sugar only to the 
 small blow (see No. 8), as the factitious liqueurs con- 
 tain much syrup. . Let it rest a moment, and when you 
 perceive a small candy or skin on the surface of the 
 sugar, pour a part into the funnel (see plate I. fig. 8), 
 with the stick that is to stop it as itdrips. Take the 
 funnel in the left hand, and hold it two inches from the 
 frame which is to receive the drops, with the stick in 
 your right hand, leaning on the edge of the funnel with 
 the little finger of the right hand; then raise the stick, 
 to let a drop fall, and instantly close it. Place the drops 
 a quarter of an inch from each other, and when finished, 
 put them in a stove moderately heated. The next day, 
 if the drops be of a good consistence, rub a wet sponge 
 on the back of the paper frame, and in a few minutes, 
 having imbibed the moisture, they will easily come off: 
 as you remove the drops, put them back to back, the 
 moist parts together. They may be made of any colour, 
 by adding it to the liqueur or spirits ; the lightest colours 
 are most agreeable to the eye.—(See Colours). 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 838 
 
 No. 66. Round Liqueur Drops, in one Piece. 
 
 Sets 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as for the preceding ones : 
 instead of running them on paper, run them in fine 
 powdered sugar or starch; but the author gives the pre- 
 ference to sugar. Have a frame or box, about two feet 
 Square and one inch deep ; fill it with powdered sugar 
 extremely dry, and mark as many impressions with a 
 half ball as the box will contain, by placing them close 
 together; run your drops in these holes; or, to express 
 myself better, fill them, and put them into the stove. 
 during twenty-four hours, at the expiration of which 
 time take out your drops, put them in a sieve, and pass: 
 them by steam ; that is to say, having a pan of boiling 
 water upon the fire, the vapour which descends, you let 
 pass through your sieve, by holding it over the steam till 
 all the white sugar is totally melted, and that your drops 
 become brilliant: return them to the stove to dry. You 
 can make them of different colours, such as rose, blue, 
 green, yellow, and purple; but if you wish the colours. 
 to show well, one-fourth part of them should be made: 
 white. 
 
 No. 67. Jewel Liqueur Drops. 
 
 This drop, from its small size and transparency, is ex- 
 tremely beautiful; but is not at all common, from the 
 difficulty of making it equal and perfectly round. The 
 following method may be depended on: The funnel (see 
 plate 1. fiy. 9) should be fixed in the work-room, so as 
 to be taken off at pleasure; in the middle of it isa bar 
 and screw, the point of which fits the middle of the fun- 
 nel, and descends perpendicularly, to stop the whole 
 when the syrup drops. ‘The sugar being prepared with 
 the liqueur, as before directed, and coloured to your 
 C5 
 
34, ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 fancy, pour it into the funnel; have your frame ready, 
 open the screw, and let a very small drop fall, which you 
 must receive on the papered frame, moving it about, and 
 holding it with both hands. As the sugar ceases drop- 
 ping from the candy which forms on the screw, open it a 
 little more ; when done, put them in the stove, and finish 
 
 them as the last, but not jomed together: they are ex- 
 tremely small. 
 
 No. 68. Liqueur Rings for Candy. 
 
 Take a small wooden mould composed of two pieces, 
 the one forming the inside of a ring, the other the out- 
 side; they must be hollow, and fit one another, (see 
 plate I. fig. 10); cut some paper of the shape of the 
 mould, but rather larger, and lay it in, and adapt it to 
 the mould; place several of the moulds on the table, 
 fill them, by means of the funnel, with the sugar of the 
 liqueur drops, and put them in a stove moderately 
 heated. Take off the paper, when the rings are suffi- 
 ciently firm, by wetting it with a hair-pencil dipped in 
 water, giving them sufficient time to moisten; then candy 
 
 them.—(See No. 23, Liqueur Rings in Candy). 
 
 No. 69. A New Sort of Candy, which can be made in 
 
 every shape that imagination may direct. 
 
 First, you must form your model, suppose a harp, 
 whether in paste, plaster, lead, or wood, so that it is in 
 one hard and solid body, and, like unto copper founders, 
 have some squares or wooden boxes of about half an 
 inch deep; fill it with very fine powdered loaf-sugar ; 
 smooth it with a rule, and print with your models as 
 many Impressions as you wish to obtain pieces of candy; 
 run in all these vacancies the same composition as for 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 35 
 
 liqueur rings, and put your box into the stove for twelve 
 hours; the next day you will find your ornaments quite 
 solid: when well brushed free from sugar, paint them 
 
 according to your taste, and put them in candy, in the 
 usual manner. | 
 
 No. 70. Liqueur Drops of different Shapes. 
 
 These drops are made like the others, but in smaller 
 papers, to which must be given the shape of squares, 
 lozenges, triangles, little festooned vases, &c.; for which 
 purpose you must use little blocks of wood and small 
 rollers, to form the required shape. The paper must be 
 plaited with the blade of a knife; it may also be crimped 
 with the fingers. The beauty of the form depends entirely 
 on the dexterity of the maker. Fill and take off the drops 
 in the same way as the others. 
 
 No. 71. Of Drops. 
 
 The drop is composed of aromatic refined sugar only; 
 it requires much care and cleanliness in the making. 
 Take double refined sugar, and pound and sift it through 
 a hair sieve, not too fine to obtain a large grain; then sift 
 it through a silk sieve, to take out all the fine dust, which 
 would destroy the beauty of the drop, as this takes away 
 its transparency, and prevents its shining. The sugar 
 being thus prepared, put it into a very clean pan, and 
 moisten it with any aromatic you choose, as rose-water, 
 &c.; pour in the rose-water slowly, stirring it with a 
 spaddle; you will know whether the sugar be moist 
 enough, if, on taking up some on the spaddle, it falls off 
 without sticking to it. You may colour the sugar if you 
 please with a small quantity of liquid carmine, or any 
 other colour ground very fine, and made yery smooth by 
 
36 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 moistening it with water only: the lightest colours are 
 best. Take a small pan with a lip (see plate I. fig. 11), 
 and fill it about with paste, and place the pan on a small 
 stove, the half-hole being of the size of the pan; stir the 
 sugar with a little ivory or bone spaddle, till it becomes 
 liquid; when you see it about to boil, take it from the 
 fire, and continue to stir it; if it be toomoist, take a little 
 of the powdered sugar, (which you should reserve for the 
 purpose when you begin), and add a spoonful to your 
 paste, and keep stirring it till it be of such a consistence 
 as to run without extending itself too much; have a tin- 
 plate very clean and smooth; take the little pan in your 
 left hand, and hold in your right a bit of iron, copper, or 
 silver wire, four inches long, to take off the drop from the 
 lip of the pan, and let it fall regularly on the tin-plate ; 
 two hours afterwards you may take off the drops with the 
 blade of a knife. 
 
 No. 72. Orange-flower Drops 
 
 Are made as the preceding, only using orange-flower 
 water (see the Distillation of that article, No. 455); if 
 you have no water, use the essence of naroli, which is 
 the essential oil of that flower, and it will answer the 
 purpose: the best is that of Florence. 
 
 No. 73, Chocolate Drops. 
 
 Scrape the chocolate to powder, and put an ounce to a 
 pound of sugar; moisten the paste with clear water, and 
 work it as above, only taking care to use all the paste 
 prepared, as, if it be put on the fire a second time, it 
 greases, and the drop is not of the proper consistence. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER; 37 
 
 No, 74, Coffee Drops. 
 
 An ounce of coffee, to a pound of sugar, will form @ 
 strong decoction; when cleared, use it to moisten the 
 sugar; and then make the drops as above. 
 
 No, 79. Barberry Drops. 
 
 Take the expressed juice of a quarter of a pound of 
 barberries to a pound of sugar; moisten the sugar with 
 the juice, add a little water, if necessary, and take the 
 same precautions as for chocolate drops, as this paste will 
 easily grease. There are three sorts of barberries; scarlet, 
 white, and stoneless. 
 
 No. 76, Cinnamon Drops. 
 
 Take an ounce of cinnamon to a pound of sugar, and 
 pound and sift the cinnamon through a silk sieve, or add 
 to the sugar a few drops of the essence of cinnamon; drop 
 them as before. 
 
 No. 77. Clove Drops 
 
 Are made as the cinnamon drops, the cloves being 
 pounded, or the essence used. Good cloves should be 
 black, heavy, of a pungent smell, hot to the taste, and 
 full of oil. 
 
 No. 78. Vanilla Drops, 
 
 To a pound of sugar, add two pods of vanilla, which 
 you must first cut very small with a knife, and pound in 
 a mortar with a little powdered sugar, without which you 
 cannot reduce it into powder; sift it through a silk sieve. 
 The essence of vanilla is not fit for use, as it gives but 
 little taste, and greases, 
 
38 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 79, Angelica Drops. 
 
 Reduce to an impalpable’ powder the erain of angelica$ 
 put an ounce of it to a pound of sugar, and make the 
 drops as before. 
 
 - No. 80, Orgeat Drops. 
 
 Take four ounces of blanched almonds, pound them 
 very fine, and moisten them with clear water, to form a 
 paste; to this add orange-flower water, and strain the 
 whole through a cloth; this should produce about half a 
 pint of milk of almonds. Moisten your sugar with it, and 
 make the drops as directed before. Observe, that as 
 almonds are of an oily nature, you must use the same 
 precautions as with chocolate-—(See No, 73.) 
 
 No. 81. Peppermint Drops. 
 
 To make these drops, the following are the requisites: 
 extreme cleanliness, the finest sugar, and a few drops of 
 the essence of peppermint. 
 
 No. 82, Lemon Drops, 
 Use the essence of lemon, made by rubbing the lemon 
 
 on a piece of loaf-sugar, and scraping it into your paste: 
 this is better than any other essence. 
 
 No. 83. Vinegar Drops. 
 
 Moisten your sugar with French white-wine vinegar ; 
 it will very soon grease the sugar.—(See No, 73.) 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 39. 
 
 No. 84. Pine-apple Drops. 
 
 Rub the rind of the fruit on sugar (see No. 82), pound 
 and pass the fruit through a fine hair sieve, mix it with 
 the rind in the sugar to your taste; moisten it with clear 
 water; it will very soon grease.—(See No. 73.) 
 
 No. 85. Caraway Drops. 
 
 Moisten your sugar with caraway water. 
 
 No. 86. Poppy Drops. 
 
 Make a decoction of poppies, strain it through a cloth, 
 and moisten your sugar with it. 
 
 No. 87. Raspberry Drops. 
 
 Take very ripe raspberries, put them in a cloth to 
 
 squeeze out the juice, and moisten your sugar with it; 
 this will grease it.—(See No. 73.) 
 
 No. 88. Drops of two Colours. 
 
 All drops, of which the compounds are not greasy, may 
 be party-coloured ; take a little pan, with a lip, anda 
 partition in the middle of it, to keep the two pastes sepa- 
 rate, just allowing them to meet on the lip.—(See plate 
 
 I. fig. 11.) 
 No. 89. Ginger Drops. 
 
 Pound and sift through a silk sieve the required quan- 
 tity of ginger, according to the strength you wish, and 
 add it to your sugar with clean water. The ginger 
 brought from China is the best; it is yellowish, of a 
 sharp hot taste, and very aromatic, 
 
40. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 90. Catechu Drops. - 
 
 Pulverise, and sift through a silk sieve, three ounces 
 of catechu, and add it toa pound of sugar, using clear 
 water (see No. 107).—Violet drops are made in the 
 same manner, pounding iris-root instead of catechu. 
 
 No. 91. Prawlings. 
 
 Everything is called a prawling, which is covered with 
 dry sugar to preserve it from moisture, as orange flowers, 
 lemon peel, orange peel, almonds, pistachios, &c. 
 
 No. 92. White Prawlings. — 
 
 Boil your sugar to a feather (see No. 9), put in the 
 fruit or almonds, and boil it to a erack (see No. 11); 
 take it from the fire and work it with a spaddle (see plate 
 I. fig. 12), till the sugar becomes a powder, then throw 
 the whole into a sieve to take off the surplus of sugar; 
 afterwards put the prawlings into a box for use. 
 
 No. 93. Almond Prawlings in Red. 
 1lb. Almonds, 11b. Sugar. 
 
 Take a pound of almonds, free from dust, dissolve with 
 a little water a pound of sugar, put the almonds in, and 
 boil them with the sugar; when the almonds crack, take 
 them off the fire, stir them to a-sand, sift them to take 
 off the loose sugar; put back the sugar in a pan on the 
 fire, with a little water ; boil it toa caramel (see No. 12); 
 add your almonds with a little liquid carmine; stir them 
 till they have taken all the sugar; put them into a sieve, 
 and sprinkle them with a little orange-flower water, to 
 give them a flavour, and make them shine. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, Al 
 
 No. 94. Natural Almond Prawlings 
 
 Are made in the same manner, but without colour; 
 they must be heated till they acquire a lustre from the 
 caramel, 
 
 No. 95. White Almond Prawlings. 
 1lb. Almonds, 2lb. Sugar. 
 
 Take two pounds of clarified sugar (see No. 2), boil it 
 ‘to a ball (see No. 10); put a pound of Jordan almonds, 
 blanched and dried, into the pan with the sugar; stir them, 
 take them from the fire, and make them imbibe as much 
 sugar as possible ; and repeat this if you want them more 
 saturated with sugar. To make them pink, add some 
 liquid carmine to the sugar, as in the last process. 
 
 No. 96. Pistachio Prawlings. 
 11d. Sugar, 1lb. Pistachios. 
 
 Dissolve a pound of sugar with a little water, and when 
 _ boiled to the little ball (see No. 10), add your pistachios; 
 take the pan from the fire, work the pistachios in the 
 same way as the almonds, and finish as there directed. 
 
 No. 97. Nut Prawlings. 
 
 1lb. Sugar, 1lb. Nuts. 
 
 Heat your nuts in a pan, on a quick fire, to take off the 
 skin; when clean, work them as the pistachios, putting a 
 pound of nuts to a pound of sugar. 
 
42 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 98. Orange-flower Prawlings. | 
 
 Pick your orange-flowers quite clean, directly they are 
 gathered, and let them steep in fresh water, while you 
 put on a sufficient quantity of clarified sugar (see No. 2), 
 which you must boil to a little ball (see No. 10); take 
 the orange-flowers, and break thestalks and ribs in your 
 hands to soften them, and open the pores that the sugar 
 may penetrate, and that the flower may be soft, flat, and 
 in its natural state. When the sugar is ready, add the 
 flowers to it, turning them round with a spaddle; as 
 they will diminish the heat of your sugar, you must boil 
 it again to the little ball (see No. 10), then take it from 
 the fire, and work it till reduced to sand; when yon can 
 bear your hand in it, rub it lightly to break every lump, 
 and sift it through a clean sieve. Keep the waste sugar to 
 
 flavour biscuits with, or for any other purpose you may 
 require. | 
 
 No. 99. Rose Harlequin Pistachios. 
 
 Take pounded sugar, as at No. 71, and moisten it with 
 rose-water ; wrap up a pistachio in the paste, shape it in 
 _ your hand, and throw it into some white nonpareils, 
 
 which you must have in a bowl near you, that it may be 
 covered with them. Continue to do the same with all the 
 pistachios; you may add to the paste a little moistened 
 carmine. These pistachios may be made like com/fits: 
 they do not dissolve so readily in the mouth, but they are 
 made in less time than comfits. You may vary the flavour 
 of your paste, and give to it the taste of orange-flowers, 
 
 lemon, bergamotte, pine-apples, vanilla, coffee, cinna- 
 mon, &c. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 43: 
 
 Szerton IV.—CHOCOLATE. 
 
 No. 100. Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios. 
 
 Take a small metal mortar, and warm it well; when 
 warm, pound in it the required quantity of chocolate, 
 with sugar (see No. 102); thus prepared, take the size 
 of a nut of the paste, put a pistachio in it, and shake it in 
 your hand till it has acquired the form ofan olive ; throw 
 it into harlequin coloured) nonpareils, that it may be en- 
 veloped in it, and so on continue with the other nuts.— 
 All kinds of pistachios are generally put up in white or 
 coloured paper, with the ends cut, and the paper should 
 contain mottos or poetry. 
 
 No. 101. Cocoa Nuts. 
 
 The cocoa nut is the fruit of a tree, about the height of an 
 orange tree, which grows more particularly in America, 
 and produces a fruit containing about thirty kernels. Of 
 cocoa there are many sorts—the cocoa of the Caraco, of 
 Cayenne, of Berbice, of the island of St. Magdalen, of 
 St. Domingo—they all differ in quality and taste ; that of 
 Caraco is the best to be prepared for chocolate ; it is 
 mixed in equal parts with that of St. Magdalen, as it is 
 too dry of itself for that operation. ‘To make chocolate, 
 the kernels must be roasted in an iron pan, like coffee, 
 stirring it all the time; when it is done enough, the peel- 
 ing comes off easily, when you hold it between your finger 
 and thumb, and care must be taken not to roast it too 
 much, Then winnow it like corn, to take off the husks ; 
 
A4. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 thus cleansed, put it back on the fire, and keep it stirring 
 till you see it shine ; take it off a second time, to remove 
 any of the husks that may be left. 
 
 No. 102. Chocolate. 
 10lbs. of Cocca, Tilbs. Sugar. 
 
 Take 10lbs. of cocoa, prepared as in the preceding num- 
 ber, have a cast-iron mortar, and warm it by filling it 
 with live charcoal; when very hot, wipe it out well, that 
 there may be no dust; pound your cocoa nuts with the 
 iron pestle till you have reduced them to an oily paste, 
 which you will ascertain by the pestle sinking into it by 
 its own weight; add to the paste seven pounds and a half 
 of fine powdered sugar, and continue to pound it till per- 
 fectly mixed; then take out the paste, put it into a pan, 
 and place it on one side in your stove (see plate I. 
 jig. 13), having a charcoal fire on the other side to heat 
 the stone, which must be very flat and smooth, eighteen 
 inches wide and thirty long. Take about a pound of the 
 paste, and grind it with an iron roller, till, upon tasting it, 
 it will melt in your mouth like butter, without leaving any 
 sediment. Put this into another pan, and continue to 
 
 roll the remainder; the stone should be so heated as 
 - scarcely to bear your hand on it. When the several par- 
 cels are thus prepared, make the whole into one mass on 
 the stone, lessen the degree of heat, mix it well, and 
 divide it into quantities of two ounces; put them into 
 moulds of tin (see plate I. fig. 14), place the moulds on 
 a board, and on shaking the board your chocolate must 
 become flat in the moulds, and shine; let it cool, and 
 take it out of the moulds. To make the vanilla choco- 
 late, you must pulverise two ounces of vanilla with one 
 part of sugar, and add it to the gross quantity of paste 
 when finished, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 45 
 
 3 7 No. 103. Chocolate Drops, with Nonpareils. 
 
 ‘Take a quantity of chocolate, warm a small cast-iron or 
 metal mortar, and pound your chocolate in it till it be- 
 comes malleable; divide it into small balls, and place 
 them on square pieces of paper, about three quarters of 
 an inch from one another; shake the paper to flatten 
 them, and pass over them some white nonpareils, entirely 
 to cover their surface; when cold take them off the 
 
 papers. 
 No. 104. Chocolate Drops in Moulds. 
 
 To make these you must have two sorts of moulds; one 
 sort of thin copper, tinned inside, about the eighth of an 
 inch deep, representing some object, coat of arms, or 
 device ; the other flat, a simple sheet of metal the size of 
 the first mould, having likewise some device upon it, and 
 also tinned; the hollow mould to receive a small ball of 
 prepared chocolate, and the flat one to cover it, which, 
 being flattened between the two pieces, takes the form and 
 impression on both sides; when the drop is cold it comes 
 out easily: it must be well impressed and shining. 
 
 No. 105. Vanilla Chocolate Drops. 
 
 18 pods of Vanilla, 84 drachms of Cinnamon, 8 Cloves, 
 2 grains of Ambergris, and 3 pounds of Sugar in 
 powder. 
 
 Pound the above articles in a metal mortar with half a 
 pound of sugar; sift the whole through a silk sieve, and 
 mix it with the remainder of the sugar; put four pounds 
 of chocolate in an iron or metal mortar, first warmed, and 
 pound it till it is melted, and your pestle sinks into it by 
 
AG ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 its own weight; then add your other ingredients, and 
 pound and mix the whole; the drops are to be dropped 
 on paper, as in No. 103, except that they are to be small, 
 as the drop No. 71, and without nonpareils, 
 
 No. 106. Cocoa Nuts in Sugar. 
 
 Take cocoa kernels, roasted asin No. LOL. Then moisten 
 _with orange-flower water, or clear water,into which essence 
 of cinnamon has been dropped, a sufficient quantity of pow- 
 dered sugar to form a paste for drops. (See No. 71.)— 
 Wrap the nuts in the paste, as pistachios (see No. 99), 
 with or without nonpareils; they are also put in papers, 
 cut at both ends. . 
 
 No. 107. Catechu Seeds. 
 
 Catechu comes from the West Indies, and is a hard, dry, 
 gummy paste, bitter to the taste at first, but leaving a 
 pleasant sweetness: it tastes somewhat like the iris or 
 violet, and is made into drops. (See No. 90.)—To make 
 catechu seeds, soak two ounces of gum dragon, well 
 chosen, (see No. 488), and put it to a pound of sugar, 
 sifted through a silk sieve; add half a pound of catechu 
 in powder, also sifted through a silk sieve; the paste thus 
 prepared, form it with your fingers into little grains, like 
 oat seeds; dry it in the stove, and keep it ina box. . 
 
 No. 108. Flavoured Catechu 
 
 Is made as above, with the addition of any essence you 
 please: if rose or foreign flower water, dissolve the gum 
 with it; for violet flavour, add iris in powder: amber- 
 gris, musk, cinnamon, and vanilla, must be all in powder, 
 or you may use essences, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER: Al 
 
 SEcTIon V.i—OF SYRUPS. 
 
 No. 109. Of Syrups. 
 
 Syrups are liquids of a certain consistence, which pre- 
 serve the taste of the juice of the fruits and flowers of 
 which they are made; the finer the sugar used, the bet- 
 ier, for the Beeeration of the syrup depends on its qua- 
 lity, and the degree of boiling. Some syrups will in time 
 become mouldy, as that of mallows, which easily con- 
 tracts a bad smell, this syrup requiring, more than any 
 other, to be boiled well; others, if done beyond a certain 
 point, are subject to ied 5 it is therefore necessary to 
 be particular, and not to bottle the syrup till quite cold ; 
 cork it well, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 No. 110. Orgeat Syrup. 
 
 Lb. Sweet Almonds, 2 oz. Bitter Almonds, 1 pint of 
 Spring Water, 3lbs. of Sugar. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter 
 almonds, and put them into boiling water; when the 
 skin peels off easily, put them into cold water; then 
 pick and throw them into fresh water; when finished, 
 put them into a marble mortar, very clean, and pound 
 them with the juice of a lemon, adding, from time to 
 time, half a pint of spring water. When completely 
 pounded, so as to leave no bits of the almonds, mix the 
 paste with another half-pint of water, strain it through 
 a cloth, which must be twisted by two persons, and 
 receive the milk of almonds in a basin. Put back the 
 paste in the cloth into the mortar, pound it again with 
 a little more water, and strain it, and add it to the 
 
48 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 others ; clarify three pounds of sugar, boil it to a crack 
 (see No. 11); take your pan from the fire to add the 
 milk of almonds, put it on the fire again, give it a boil 
 up and take it off: keep stirring it round with a spaddle, 
 or skimmer, till it is cold, which will prevent its dividing 
 when bottled, as I have seen it at many confectioners’ in 
 London. Add a small glass of orange-flower water, or 
 half a drop of essence of naroli, and strain it through a 
 cloth, which is essentially necessary to prevent its parting. 
 
 No. l1l. Raspberry Syrup. 
 1 pint of Raspberry Juice, 2lbs. of Sugar. 
 
 Take red or white raspberries, pick them clean, mash 
 them, put them into a pan, in a warm place, and let them 
 ferment for two or three days; afterwards draw off the 
 juice, and filter it through blotting paper ; to every pint of 
 juice add two pounds of loaf-sugar, melting it on the fire, 
 and taking care to skim it well, without boiling it; do it 
 to a pearl (see No. 7); strain it through a cloth, let it 
 cool, and when cold, bottle it. 
 
 No. 112. Currant Syrup. 
 
 Currant syrup is made as the preceding; adding to the 
 currants, when mashed and fermented, a few raspberries, 
 according to your taste. 
 
 No. 113. Morello-Cherry Syrup. 
 1lb. Morellos, 2dbs. Sugar. 
 
 Take one pound of ripe Morello cherries, mash them 
 on a sieve, press the juice from them, and strain it 
 through a flannel bag, till it is very clear; clarify two 
 pounds of sugar (see No. 2), boil it to a crack (see 
 No. 11), and add the juice to it. Put it on a gentle 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. A9 
 
 fire to melt the sugar, keep stirring it with a skimmer, 
 5 sand let it boil up once; skim it well, take it from the 
 “Cody and when quite eal bottle it. 
 
 No. 114. Mulberry Syrup. 
 
 1 pint of Syrup, 1 pint of Juice. 
 
 __ Obtain, by pressure, a pint of juice, from very ripe mul- 
 berries; boil a pint of syrup to a crack (see No. 11), 
 and pour in your juice; reduce it to a pearl (see No. 7); 
 skim it, let it cool, and bottle it. In England there are 
 only three sorts of mulberries: black, red, and white. 
 In Italy there are seven kinds. 
 
 No. 115. Barberry Syrup 
 
 Is made in the same way as Morello syrup.—(See 
 
 No. 113.) 
 ? No. 116. Strawberry Syrup 
 
 Is made in the same way as mulberry syrup.—(See 
 
 No. 114.) 
 
 No. 117. Raspberry-Vinegar Syrup. 
 Take white or red raspberries, pick them very clean, 
 mash them, and let them ferment (see No. 111); drain 
 off the juice, and for every pint add two pints of vinegar; 
 filter it, add three pounds of loaf sugar, reduce it to a 
 pearl (see No. 7).—Observe to take white wine vinegar, 
 and fine loaf-sugar, to white raspberries. 
 
 ali leat aaah eae 
 ate 
 
 No. 118. Capillaire Syrup. 
 lb. of Sugar, 1 oz. Capillaire. 
 Capillaire (maidenhair) is a plant which grows on the 
 
 sides of wells and fountains; its stem is of a reddish 
 D 
 
50 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 purple, about fifteen inches long; it has greenish leaves, 
 obtuse and dented on one side; the best is that of 
 Canada; you must make an infusion of it to obtain your 
 syrup. I give these particulars, as I find that what is 
 generally sold in London as capillaire, is only syrup, with 
 orange-flower water in it. ‘Take an ounce of capillaire, 
 and put it into a small quantity of boiling water, to 
 infuse, as you would tea ; put a pound of sugar into the 
 infusion, and clarify it with the white of an egg; boil it to 
 a pearl (see No.7); strain it through a cloth, and when 
 cold, put in a little orange-flower water, and bottle it. 
 
 No. 119. Lemon Syrup. 
 1 pint of Lemon Juice, 2 pints of Syrup. 
 
 Take a pint of lemon juice, filter it through blotting 
 paper; boil two pints of syrup to the litte crack (see 
 No. 11), and add the juice; put it on the fire, let it boil 
 toa pearl (see No. 7), skim it, take it off the fire, let it 
 cool, and then boitle it. 
 
 No. 120. Coffee Syrup. 
 1 pint of Coffee, 2 pints of Syrup. 
 “Make a strong decoction of Mocha coffee, very clear, 
 to the amount of a pint; take two pints of syrup, boil it 
 to a ball (see No. 10), and add the coffee; put it again 
 
 on the fire, boil it to a pearl (see No. 7), and strain it 
 through a cloth; bottle it when cold. 
 
 No. 121. Wormwood Syrup. 
 1 oz. of Wormwood, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Make nearly a pint of the infusion of wormwood ; add 
 to it a pound of loaf-sugar; clarify it (see No. 2), and 
 boil it to a pearl (see No. 7); when cold, bottle it, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 51 
 
 No. 122. Marsh-Mallow Syrup. 
 
 Take two ounces of marsh-mallow roots, cut them into 
 small pieces, bruise them in a mortar, and boil the mal- 
 lows in a pint and a half of water, till reduced to a pint; 
 then clear it, and add a pound of sugar, finishing it in 
 the same way as capillaire.—(See No. 118.) 
 
 No. 123. Syrup of Pinks. 
 1b. of Pinks, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Pick off all the green parts from half a pound of pinks, 
 put the flowers in a mortar, and pound them with a 
 pint of boiling water; strain the decoction through a 
 cloth; clarify one pound of loaf-sugar (see No. 2), 
 boil it to a ball (see No. 10), and.add it to the decoction ; 
 put it again on the fire, and boil it to a pearl (see No. 
 7).—This syrup may also be made without pounding the 
 flowers, only boiling them with the sugar; when done, 
 skim it, and strain it through a cloth. The dark red 
 velvety single pink is the best for syrup. 
 
 No. 124, Violet Syrup 
 
 Is made in the same way as the preceding, only 
 leaving the flowers half a day in boiling water, in a 
 close and very warm place. The garden violet, of a 
 dark colour, is the best for the confectioner, as its 
 perfume is the strongest, and does not escape so soon 
 in working. Syrup of roses is made the same as violet 
 syrup. 
 D2 
 
52 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 125. A necessary observation upon all Syrups. 
 
 The Author has proved by experience, that generally 
 all syrups done in the bain marie, are, without doubt, 
 more perfect than those done upon the fire. 
 
 The quantities in the mixture are the same; the 
 difference only is, that instead of using clarified sugar, 
 you must take double refined crystallized white sugar, 
 and put it in a glass with the juice of the fruit, decoc- 
 tion, or milk extracted from almonds: by putting this 
 glass in water upon the fire, the sugar melts by the 
 caloric of the water, and no alteration of taste is pro- 
 duced. 
 
 The glass being shut or corked, and the sugar being 
 perfectly melted, the syrup is found done. The Author 
 has an instrument, which .he obtained at Paris, called 
 a pese sirop, or saccharometer, the same as the pese 
 liquors, or hydrometer; this is steeped in the syrup; 
 and if at thirty-two degrees, it is done to that consist- 
 ence fit to keep. ‘The same instrument serves also to 
 ascertain every degree of sugar; that is to say, to know 
 what quantity of sugar is contained in the liquid: for 
 instance, put the instrument into water, and it will mark 
 Q; but if you add a small portion of syrup, it will mark 
 the degree. This instrument is extremely necessary 
 when clarifying sugar with animal black, as we make use 
 of it in the clarification, which assures us if it requires 
 any more water, or no, at the point of eballition, to bring 
 it to its proper degree. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 53 
 
 Section VI.—OF MARMALADES. 
 
 No. 126.—Of Marmalades. 
 
 Marmarapes are a half liquid preserve, made of the 
 pulp of fruits, of a certain consistence ; no marmalades 
 can be well made without putting, at least, twelve ounces 
 of sugar to a pound of fruit ; they must also be boiled to 
 a proper degree, as afterwards described. 
 
 ce 127. Green Apricot Marmalade. 
 1lb. of Apricots, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Put a small quantity of wood ashes in a pan with water, 
 and boil it, taking care to skim off the small bits of 
 charcoal which willswim on the top; then let it stand, 
 and draw it off clear. Put it on the fire again, and, when 
 boiling, throw in the little apricots to clear off their down ; 
 when the down comes off easily, take them off the fire, 
 and put them into cold water to cool; when cold, put 
 them into acloth, and rub them clean. 
 
 Another Way. 
 
 Take two handfuls of salt, put it into a towel, with your 
 green apricots, and roll them in it till the down comes 
 off; put them into water to wash them, and then into 
 second clean water on the fire; let them boil till you can 
 crush them between your fingers; strain them, and 
 pound them well in a mortar; pass them through a fine 
 hair sieve with a spaddle; put the pulp into a pan on 
 the fire, and dry it till you see the fruit begin to stick to 
 the bottom of the pan; take it off, and weigh the con- 
 
54 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 tents, and for every pound add a pound of loaf-sugar ; 
 clarify it, boil it toa feather, add the pulp to it, and boil 
 it up two or three times, taking care to stir it, to prevent 
 its burning to the bottom of the pan. You must then put 
 into pots, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 No. 128. Ripe Apricot Marmalade. 
 1lb. of Apricot Pulp, 1b. of Sugar. 
 
 Take ripe apricots, put them into boiling water, leave 
 them a few minutes, then take them out, and extract the 
 stones, and pass them through a hair sieve; weigh the 
 pulp, and to every pound take a pound of loaf-sugar ; 
 clarify it; boil it to the great feather; add your pulp, 
 stirring and boiling it till it hangs on the spaddle like a 
 jelly ; take it from the fire, and add the kernels of the 
 apricots which you use, previously blanched and dried. 
 
 No. 129. Cherry Marmalade. 
 albs. of Cherries, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Choose two pounds of very ripe cherries, of a fine colour, 
 take out the stones and stalks, put them into a pan on 
 the fire, and reduce them nearly one half. Clarify two 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and boil it to the little crack; add 
 the pulp, and mix it in well; put it back on the fire, and 
 stir it with the spaddle: when you can easily see the 
 bottom of the pan, you may be certain of its being done 
 enough. 
 
 No. 130. Raspberry Marmalade. 
 1lb. of Raspberries, 2lbs. of Sugar. 
 
 Let your raspberries be fresh; clean them from the 
 stalks and leaves; mash and pass them through a 
 splinter sieve, and reduce them on the fire to half, like 
 
(oS a ee 
 
 No. 128.) 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 55 
 
 the cherries. Clarify two pounds of loaf-sugar, boil it te 
 a ball, and mix it with the pulp; put it back on the fire, 
 to boil it up a few times; then put it into pots. 
 
 No. 131. Plum Marmalade. 
 116. of Plum Pulp, 12 oz. of Sugar. 
 
 Take plums of any kind you please; if they be not ripe 
 enough to pass through a sieve, put them in boiling 
 water on the fire, and let them boil till tender; then take 
 them out, drain them, and pass them through a hair 
 sieve ; weigh the pulp, put it on the fire again, and reduce 
 it to one half; to every pound of pulp, take twelve 
 ounces of loaf-sugar; clarify, and boil it to the litéle 
 crack ; add the pulp, continue to boil it, and stir it with 
 a spaddle: when, on holding up the spaddle, you see the 
 mixture fall off like a jelly, it is then done. 
 
 No. 1382, Pear Marmalade. 
 lb, of Pears, 12 oz. of Sugar. 
 
 Any pears may be used for marmalades: put them into 
 boiling water, and let them boil a few minutes; then 
 take them out, peel and cut them in pieces, put them 
 back on the fire, and let them boil till tender; next pass 
 them through a cullender, by means of a wooden pestle; 
 weigh the pulp, and to every pound put twelve ounces of 
 loaf-sugar ; clarify and boil it to the /itfle crack; take it 
 off, add the pulp, mix it, put it back on the fire, and boil 
 it to the same consistence as apricot marmalade.—(See 
 
 No. 133. Oranye Marmalade. 
 lb. of Seville Oranges, Ub. of Loaf-sugar. 
 
 Take Seville oranges, and squeeze the juice through a 
 sieve ; put the peels into water, boil them till quite soft, 
 
56 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 and throw them on a hair sieve to drain; clean them 
 from the pulp, and cut them in pieces, then pound them, 
 with the juice, in a mortar, quite fine; pass them through 
 a fine hair sieve; weigh it, and for every pound of fruit, 
 clarify a pound of loaf-sugar, boil it to the large feather ; 
 take it off, mix them well, and put it back on the fire. 
 Let it boil till it becomes a jelly dropping from the 
 spaddle, like plum marmalade (see No. 131); then put 
 it into pots, and keep it in a very dry place. 
 
 No, 134. Peach Marmalade. 
 llb. of Peach Pulp, 12 oz. of Sugar. 
 
 Peel and take out the stones of your peaches, put them 
 for a moment into boiling water, but not on the fire ; 
 drain them, and pass them through a sieve: weigh the 
 pulp, and for every pound, take twelve ounces of loaf- 
 sugar; clarify it, and boil it toa feather; then add the 
 pulp, first reduced to one half, as cherries (see No. 129); 
 mix them well together, and let them boil for five mi- 
 nutes ; it is then fit to be put into pots. 
 
 No. 135. Barberry Murmalade. — 
 1lb. of Barberries, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Mash the barberries in a little water, on a warm stove; 
 pass them through a hair sieve with a spaddle; weigh the 
 pulp, and put it back on the fire; reduce it to one half; 
 take a pound of loaf-sugar, clarify it, and boil it as above; 
 put in the pulp, and boil it together for a few minutes. 
 * 
 No. 136. Black Currant Marmalade. 
 
 1lb. of Black Currants, 12 oz. of Sugar. 
 
 Pick the currants clean from the stalks, put them on 
 the fire with a little water, till they are quite mashed ; 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 57 
 
 then pass them through a hair sieve, and weigh the pulp; 
 put it on the fire, reduce it as above, and take for every 
 pound, twelve ounces of loaf-sugar ; clarify it, and boil it 
 to a crack; mix the whole, and boil it till it becomes of 
 the consistence of a jelly, which will be proved by the 
 spaddle, as in apricot marmalade.—(See No. 128.) 
 
 ’ Red Currant Marmalade is made in the same manner. 
 
 No. 137. Pine-Apple Marmalade. 
 
 Take off the outside of the pine, cut the fruit in pieces, 
 pound it in a mortar, and pass it through a hair sieve ; 
 weigh the pulp, and take for every pound one pint of 
 syrup; boil it to a blow, add the pulp, and boil it till it 
 jellies, like apricot marmalade.—(See No. 128.) 
 
 ® Section VII.—OF JELLIES. 
 
 4 No. 138. Of Jellies. 
 
 JeLty is composed of the juice of fruits, mixed with 
 sugar, but it is not every kind of fruit that will make a 
 jelly ; such only as are mucilaginous, as currants, apples, 
 black currants, cherries, apricots, &c., being used for this 
 purpose. 
 
 * No. 139. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Take any quantity of currants you please, pass them 
 
 through a splinter or cane sieve, and put them on the fire, 
 
 stirring them with a spaddle till they begin to boil; then 
 D5 
 
58 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 pass them through a flannel bag to clear the juice; mea- 
 sure your jelly, and take an equal quantity of syrup, boil 
 it to a crack, put in the juice, and let it boil, till you see, 
 by dipping your skimmer in the jelly, and again raising it, 
 the jelly forms a web upon it, which, if boiled enough, 
 will remain on the skimmer. Take it off the fire, let it 
 stand a few minutes till the scum has settled on the sur- 
 face, which must be removed with a skimmer, and it is 
 then fit to put in your pots. When cold, cut pieces of 
 paper to the size of your pots, and steep them in brandy 
 to cover the jelly. ’ 
 
 No. 140. Cherry Jelly. 
 
 ‘Take the required quantity of cherries, pick off the stalks, 
 and take out the stones, and add a fourth part of currants: 
 make it as in No. 139, 
 
 No. 141. Raspberry Telly. 
 
 Raspberry jelly is rather a currant jelly, with rasp- 
 berries, as there must be three parts of currants and only 
 one part of raspberries. It is made as No. 139. : 
 
 ge ~ 
 
 rs 
 
 No. 142. Black Currant Jeily 
 
 Is made in the same manner as red.—( See No. 139.) 
 
 No. 143. Apple Jelly. 
 
 Pare your apples, cut them into quarters, and put them 
 into cold water sufficient to cover them; boil them till they 
 become a mass; put them into a sieve to strain off the 
 liquid, and run it through a flannel bag to clear it; mea- 
 sure it, take the same quantity of syrup, boil it toacrack; 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 5D 
 
 put in your juice, or jelly, and finish it like the currant 
 jelly. —(See No. 139.) 
 
 No. 144. Quince Jelly 
 
 2 
 Is made like that of apples. 
 
 No. 145. Barberry Jelly. 
 
 Pick your barberries clean from the stalks, weigh them, 
 and for every pound take one pound of syrup; boil it 
 together till the sugar comes to the pearl, then pass it 
 through a fine hair sieve into an earthen pan, with a 
 spaddle, to extract the juice; when strained, put it again 
 on the fire, and finish it. like currant jelly.—(See No. 
 139.) 
 
 Section VIIJ].—OF FRUIT AND OTHER PASTES, 
 
 eg No. 146. Of Fruit Pastes. 
 
 Pastes are fruits of which the pulp has been extracted, 
 reduced into paste by heat, and being mixed with sugar, 
 become of a consistence susceptible of taking an) shape 
 you please; they also candy very well. 
 
 No. 147. Apple Paste. 
 
 Take apples, according to the quantity of paste you wish 
 to make, boil them in water till they are quite soft, then 
 take them out of the water, mash and pass them through 
 avhair sieve ; weigh the pulp and put intoa pan. Take 
 
60 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the same weight of sugar, clarify it, and boil it to the’ 
 large feather; take it off, mix it with the pulp, then put 
 it on a slow fire, and stir it with a spaddle; when it 
 begins to boil a little, it is done; pour it out thin on © 
 plates, or in moulds, which must be previously placed on 
 sheets of tin: they may be of different shapes, as hearts, 
 circles, &c. That which you run out on plates, after 
 remaining twenty-four hours in the stove, may be cut in 
 rings, or fillets to form knots, or any other form you 
 please. When wanted for candy, or any other purpose, 
 it may be coloured by adding a little liquid carmine 
 to the pulp before you mix it with the sugar. Dry the 
 articles in a stove. 
 
 No. 148. Quince Paste. 
 
 Quince paste is made in the same manner as the preced- 
 ing; it may be made of different colours, and is cut in 
 fillets to form different shapes. 
 
 No. 149. Currant Paste. 
 
 Take a quantity of currants, pass them through a hair 
 sieve to take out the seeds, reduce them on the fire, 
 
 stirring it all the time with a spaddle; when you see the 
 pulp forms a paste, take it off and weigh it: to a pound 
 and quarter of reduced juice, add a pound and half of 
 loaf-sugar; clarify it, and boil it to a feather; mix the 
 whole, boil it up, and put it into moulds, or spread it out 
 thin on tin plates, and cut it according to the purpose for 
 which you may want it, as apple paste.—(See No. 147.) 
 
 No. 150. Cherry Paste. 
 
 ‘Take some cherries, quite ripe, clear them from the stalks 
 and stones, put them in a pan on the fire, and boil them 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 61 
 
 for a little time; take them off and pass them through a 
 hair sieve, by the help of a spaddle; weigh the pulp, 
 and to every pound add a pound of loaf-sugar; clarify it, 
 and boil it to the feather; having reduced the cherries 
 to a paste, mix it with the sugar with the spaddle; put 
 it again on the fire till it boils, and pour it into moulds 
 or on tin plates, and let it dry in the stove ; when dried 
 on one side take it from the moulds, and dry the other 
 side on a sieve. 
 
 No. 151. Apricot Paste. 
 
 Take ripe apricots, put them into boiling water, boil them 
 two or three minutes to soften them, and pass them 
 through a hair sieve; put back the pulp into the pan to 
 reduce it, stirring it with a spaddle lest it should burn 
 to the bottom ; when brought to a pulpy consistence, take 
 it from the fire, weigh it, and to every pound of pulp put 
 half a pound of loaf-sugar; clarify it, and boil it to a 
 feather ; add the pulp, put it back on the fire to boil for 
 a minute, and when you find your paste drop off easily 
 from the spaddle, take it from the fire, fill your moulds, 
 and dry itas before; or you may make papers plaited on 
 pieces of wood, to the required shape, aad fill and dry 
 them in the stove in the same way; when dry, you must 
 wet the papers to take out the paste. 
 
 No. 152. Plum Paste. 
 
 Take the stones out of green gages, or any sort of plums 
 that will preserve well, put them into a pan with a little 
 water, boil them to a jam, pass them through a hair sieve, 
 with a spaddle, and put the pulp on the fire to reduce as 
 above; then take it off, weigh it, and to every pound of 
 pulp put one pound of loaf-sugar ; clarify it, and boil it 
 
62 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 to the great ball; mix, and boil the whole together; 
 put it in moulds, and dry it, as cherry paste.—(See 
 No. 150.) 
 
 No. 153. Peach Paste. 
 
 Peel some ripe and very good peaches, and cut them into 
 little pieces; put them in a pan without water, to boil and 
 reduce them; take them off, weigh them, and for every 
 pound of pulp put halfa pound of loaf-sugar; clarify it, 
 boil it to a feather, and add it to the pulp; put it back 
 on the fire for a few minutes; take it off, pour it out, and 
 dry it in the stove, as cherry paste——(See No. 150.) 
 
 No. 154. Raspberry Paste. 
 
 Pass through a sieve the quantity of raspberries you mean 
 to use; reduce them, as directed before} on the fire, to the 
 consistence of paste, and to every pound and a quarter of 
 pulp, take one pound and a half of loaf-sugar ; clarify, 
 and boil it to a feather; mix the whole, and finish it as 
 before. 
 
 No. 155. Orange Paste. 
 
 Extract the juice of Seville oranges by pressure, then boil 
 the rinds till they are tender enough to be crushed between 
 your finger and thumb; scoop out the pulp, and then 
 pound the rinds, with half the juice, ina mortar very 
 fine, and pass them through a fine hair sieve ; keep it on 
 the fire till it forms a marmalade; take it off, weigh it, 
 and for every pound of pulp take two pounds of loaf- 
 sugar; Clarify it, and boil it to a feather ; mix, and finish 
 it like currant paste.—(See No. 149.) 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 63 
 
 No. 156. Lemon Paste 
 
 Is made as the preceding, except that you must not use 
 any of the juice ; put it on the fire, and reduce it a little; 
 add a pound of powdered sugar, and boil it up once. 
 
 No. 157. Black-Currant Paste or Drops. 
 
 This is made in the same way as red-currant paste (see 
 No. 149), except that when the paste is cold, it must be 
 put into a bladder, and forced through the pipe like ma- 
 caroons, to form small drops; lay it on tin plates slightly 
 buttered, and put them in a warm stove; when dry enough, 
 detach them with the blade of a knife, and put them on 
 a sieve to finish drying. 
 
 No. 158. Marsh-Mallow Paste. 
 
 1lb. of Gum Senegal, 11b. of Sugar in syrup, half a 
 pint of Apple Juice, Hssence of Naroli. 
 
 Put into a mortar a pound of gum Senegal, pound and sift 
 it through a hair sieve, dissolve it in double its quantity 
 of water, and let it stand a day or two: when perfectly 
 melted, strain it throngh a lawn sieve, and add to it half 
 a pint of apple juice * prepared as for apple jelly (see No. 
 143) ; put it on the fire, with a pound of sugar clarified, 
 and dry it to a thick consistence, taking care to have a 
 little fire, covered with ashes, under it; then whisk toa 
 snow six whites of eggs, and add them to your paste. 
 Continue to stir the mixture, to prevent its sticking to the 
 pan, which would entirely spoil your paste. You will 
 
 * Marsh-Mallow is not used on account of its unpleasant taste ; 
 apple jelly is equally good, and possesses the same healing qualities 
 —if it be wished, however, to use marsh-mallow, the necessary 
 quantity is half a pound, taking care that the roots be quite fresh. 
 
64 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 know when it is done, if, on applying some of the paste 
 to the back of your hand, it does not stick: this mode of 
 making it is rather tedious, but it is the best. Add to 
 your paste a drop of essence of naroli, or a glass of orange- 
 flower water ; when finished, powder a marble slab with 
 starch-powder, on which you must flatten your paste; 
 when cold, you may cut it into long strips ; then put it in 
 boxes, well powdered with starch, that it may not stick 
 together. 
 No. 159. Liquorice Puste 
 
 Ts made like the preceding. You must cut into little 
 pieces a pound of stick-liquorice, and boil it in a sufficient 
 quantity of water to dissolve a pound of gum Senegal; 
 add to the liquorice half a dozen apples (rennets), and a 
 handful of pearl barley ; draw off the decoction, dissolve 
 the gum in it, and add half a pound of sugar; finish as 
 for marsh-mallow paste. 
 
 No. 160. Jujube Paste. 
 
 1lb. of Gum Senegal, $lb. of Sugar, Orange-Flower 
 Water. 
 
 Take a pound of gum Senegal, pound and dissolve it in 
 orange-flower water, sufficient when it is dissolved to 
 drain and leave a sediment ; put it on a slow fire to re- 
 duce, and keep stirring it; when it is of the consistence 
 of paste, clarify half a pound of loaf sugar, boil it to a 
 blow, and add it to your paste ; when mixed, put it ona 
 very slow fire, and dry it to a good consistence; run it 
 into moulds of tin about a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 place them in a stove. When dry, take out the paste 
 and cut it into small pieces, or in any shapes you please*, 
 
 * Jujube paste is in great vogue in France, and on the continent, 
 as a medicine for coughs and colds. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 65 
 
 No. 161. Orgeat Paste. ' 
 1lb. of Almonds, 21lbs. of Sugar. 
 
 Put some almonds into boiling water to blanch, take off 
 the skins, and put them into cold water instantly, that 
 they may be perfectly white; leave them a day in this 
 water, and the next day pound them very fine, sprinkling 
 them at intervals with orange-flower water; weigh the 
 ‘ paste, and to every pound take one pound and a quarter 
 of loaf-sugar; clarify it, boil it to the little crack, and 
 add the sugar to your almonds; mix them well with a 
 spaddle ; take out the paste, and put it to cool in an 
 earthen pan; when cold, pound it ina mortar to make it 
 sufficiently elastic; then powder with sugar a marble 
 slab, put your paste on it, and form it into tablets, or roll 
 it so as to form sticks. 
 
 Section [IX.—OF PRESERVED FRUITS. 
 
 No. 162. Of Preserved Fruits. 
 
 Tue ancients preserved their fruit in honey, of which they 
 distinguished three sorts: the common honey, or honey 
 from flowers; the honey-dew, gathered in abundance on 
 Mount Libanus, by the Arabs; and honey from reeds, 
 nearly the same as our sugar. Preserves are dry or 
 moist, and are made accordingly, some with half, and 
 some with full sugar. They should be kept in a dry 
 place, but not too warm, because too much heat will cause 
 them to ferment. If the place be damp, the preserves 
 
66 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 will become musty ; some also that have the full quantity 
 of sugar will candy ; in this case a small quantity of pul- 
 verised alum, dissolved in a spoonful of water, must be 
 put into the syrup. 
 
 No. 163. Wet Cherries. 
 1lb. of Cherries, 1lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Choose some fine cherries, stone and pick them, and to 
 every pound of fruit add one pound of loaf-sugar ; clarify 
 it, and boil it to a feather ; put in your cherries, and take 
 care to move the pan from time to time, that the sugar 
 may boil all over the fruit; when it has boiled over ten 
 or twelve times, take it from the fire and put it into a 
 pan. ‘The next day you must drain the syrup from the 
 cherries, put it on the fire, and boil it to a pearl; put 
 your cherries in again, and boil them up several times: 
 do this four days running, boiling them a degree more 
 each day; on the fifth day drain them, and boil your 
 sugar to the little blow ; put in your cherries, and give 
 them a boil over; put the cherries and syrup into pots, 
 but do not fill them quite, that you may cover them with 
 currant jelly, which will form a smooth and transparent 
 gloss on the cherries; when the fruit is cold, cover the 
 pots with paper. 
 
 No. 164. Dried Cherries. 
 1lb. of Cherries, $lb. of Sugar. 
 
 Stone and pick your cherries ; take half a. pound of sugar 
 to a pound of fruit, and put the cherries in a pan, a layer 
 of cherries, a layer of powdered sugar, and so on; let 
 them stand three days, then pour the mixture into a cop- 
 per pan, and boil it up five or six times ; let it cool, take 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 67 
 
 them out of the syrup, drain them, and spread them thin 
 on hair sieves; put them ina hot stove to dry, turning 
 them on clean sieves every eight hours till dry. 
 
 No. 165. Whole Cherries. 
 1lb. of Cherries, 11b. of Sugar. 
 
 Take one pound of cherries, shorten the stalks, and pre- 
 serve as directed at No. 163; drain them on sieves, and 
 dry them in the stove till you can handle them: roll 
 them in your fingers, to make them round and smooth, 
 then by applying to them four or six of the dried cherries 
 (see No. 164), they will appear very large cherries; lay 
 them, when done, on tin plates, the stalk upward, and 
 powder them lightly with fine powdered sugar, and put 
 them into a stove: the next day turn and powder them 
 again; when sufficiently dried, put them in boxes for use. 
 
 No. 166. Dried Giviatée in Bunches. 
 
 Choose cherries of equal size, and form them into 
 bunches, by tying the stalks with iron binding wire; boil 
 some syrup to a blow, and put your bunches into it, boil- 
 ing them over several times; take them from the fire, 
 pour them into an earthen pan, the next day boil them 
 over again a few times; when cold, drain and dry them 
 in the stove, on sieves, with a moderate heat. 
 
 No. 167. Green Apricots, Wet. 
 
 Take apricots, of which the stones are not yet formed, 
 and through which you can thrust a pin: take off the 
 down (see No, 127), and put them into boiling water to 
 blanch ; when you see them rise on the top of the water, 
 take them off the fire, and if you can easily put the 
 
68 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER; 
 
 head of a pin in them, take them out with your skimmer, 
 and throw them into cold water; some minutes after-— 
 wards drain them on sieves; take some syrup prepared 
 (as in No, 2), let it just boil up, and put in your apri- 
 cots; let them boil over a few times, then put them out 
 into a pan; after you have skimmed them well, the next 
 day drain the syrup from them, and increase the quan- 
 tity of syrup by adding some fresh to it, and boil it more 
 by a degree; put back your apricots into the syrup, boil 
 them up two or three times during five days, adding 
 each day alittle fresh syrup ; the last boiling of the syrup 
 must be to the large pearl, but must not exceed that 
 point ; boil them over, that is, when the sugar boils it 
 must cover the fruit; skim them well, and put them by 
 in dry pans; take them out, and dry them when wanted. 
 
 No. 168. Green Apricots, pared, Wet. 
 
 Take apricots as above, and with a pen-knife pare them, 
 throwing them, as you do them, into cold water; blanch 
 them (see No. 167); let them cool in the water in which 
 they are blanched, and when your fruit is cold, put it, 
 with the same water, on a slow fire for a short time to 
 make it green; but take care that the water does not 
 boil, only simmer at most: when the head of a pin will 
 easily go through them, take out your apricots, put them 
 into cold water, and preserve them as before. 
 
 No. 169. Ripe Apricots, Wet*. 
 
 Take apricots, neither too ripe nor too green, and if they 
 are to be whole, cut a small slit near the stem, and push 
 out the stone ; put them into boiling water to blanch, but 
 
 * The three kinds of apricots best for the confectioner’s use are 
 as follow: the first resembling the peach, red on one side and yel- 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 69 
 
 mind they do not break, which will be the case if you 
 blanch them too much ; take out the apricots as they rise 
 on the water, put them into cold water, and drain them 
 onasieve. ‘Take some syrup, boil it to a feather, and 
 put in gently as many of your apricots as will swim; 
 boil them up a few times, skim them, and put them in 
 an earthen pan; the next day drain the syrup from the 
 fruit, and add to it a small quantity of fresh syrup ; boil 
 and skim it till it comes to the small pearl; put your 
 apricots into it, let your syrup boil all over them, skim 
 and put them back into your pan, and repeat this the 
 third day ; the fourth day your syrup must be boiled to 
 the small blow ; put in your apricots, boil them up a 
 few times, skim them very carefully, pat them by in dry 
 pans, keep them for use, and dry them when required. 
 
 No. 170. Ripe Apricots, pared, Wet, 
 
 Are preserved, like the preceding, except that they must 
 be divided, the stones taken out, and lightly peeled with 
 a small knife: these apricots are excellent for compotes. 
 
 No. 171. Apricots filled with other Fruits. 
 
 Filled apricots are preserved whole. The stone must be 
 taken out through a small incision near the stem, (See 
 No. 169.) If, when preserved whole, you want to fill 
 them, wash the syrup off with warm water, and put in 
 plums, dried cherries, raspberries, or any other fruit, 
 with one of the kernels peeled. Dry them in the stove, 
 
 low on the other, the stone smooth and flat ; the second is between 
 the peach and the plum, the colour lighter and the kernel sweeter ; 
 the third is smaller, yellower, and less agreeable to the taste. In 
 England, the following are the principal species: the Masculine, 
 Moreparks, Peach, Brussels, Breda, Turkey, Algiers, Orange, 
 Transparent, Alberge, and Portugal Apricot. 
 
70 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 172. Apricots preserved, without Fire. 
 
 Take very ripe apricots, cut them in halves, take out the 
 stones, and put a layer of them in a pan; take white 
 sugar-candy, pound and sift it fine, and powder your 
 apricots with it, forming a layer of apricots and a layer 
 of sugar. You must put a pound and a half of sugar- 
 candy to a pound of fruit; let your pan stand in the sun 
 for four days, and stir the fruit three or four times a day; 
 then put them in pots. Apricots preserved this way taste 
 better than when preserved by boiling, and they will keep 
 equally well. 
 
 No. 173. Raspberries, Wet. 
 
 Take-raspberries, which must be very clean, and as much 
 clarified sugar as will swim your fruit; boil it to a blow, 
 and let the fruit boil up ten or a dozen times; take it 
 from the fire, skim it well, and put it intoa pan. The 
 next day drain off the syrup, and put the raspberries into 
 pots; boil your syrup with the same-quantity of currant 
 juice, prepared as for currant jelly (see No. 139), let it 
 boil to a light jelly, and fill your pots with it over the 
 raspberries ; cover them over with paper when cold. A 
 ‘fine, strong, cordial and stomachic wine is made from 
 raspberries: a spirituous liquor is also made from them. 
 
 No. 174. Dry Raspberries. 
 
 Preserve them as the last; but instead of putting them 
 in pots, drain them on sieves, and put them in a stove to 
 dry. 
 
 No. 175. Walnuts, Wet. 
 
 Choose some of the largest green walnuts before the 
 shell is formed; peel off the green rind as far as the 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. AL 
 
 white, and put them, as you do them, into cold water; 
 put a pan of water on the fire, and when boiling, throw 
 in your walnuts, with a little pulverised alum ; blanch 
 them till you can put the head of a pin through them; 
 take them out and put them into cold water ; when cold, 
 drain them quite dry, and put them into an earthen pan. 
 Clarify some double refined sugar, boil it to the litéle 
 thread, let it cool, and pour it over your nuts. Continue 
 to drain the syrup from them for five days, putting it on 
 _ the fire each day to increase its degree, yet it must not 
 boil, as it would blacken it; each day you must add a 
 little fresh syrup, to replace that which is imbibed by the 
 nuts. The fifth day, for the last time, your sugar must 
 boil to the great pearl ; when it is getting cold, pour it on 
 your nuts, as directed before, cover your pan, and keep 
 them till you want to dry and use them. 
 
 No. 176. Green Gages, Wet. 
 
 Let your fruit be neither ripe nor green ; prick the gages 
 all round with a fork, and put them in a copper pan with 
 water enough to swim in; put it on a moderate fire, and 
 when the water nearly boils, take it off, and let the gages 
 remain in it till next day, then put them back on the fire 
 in the same water, with a handful of salt, or spinach, to 
 turn them green; you must keep them warm for three 
 hours, taking care that the water does not boil.. Con- 
 tinue to stir them; when they are green increase the 
 fire, and when they begin to swim take them out and put 
 them into cold water, which should be ready for the pur- 
 pose; renew the water several times, that the gages may 
 be quite cold; drain them on sieves. 
 
 Take some syrup and boil it to the little thread ; put 
 the fruit into it, and let it boil up a few times; skim it 
 well, and let the gages remain in the syrup for four days; 
 
fips ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 drain the fruit off every day, and put the syrup to boil a 
 degree, and skim and pour it over the fruit. The fifth 
 day your sugar must be at the pearl; put the fruit in,” 
 and let the syrup boil over it; take it off, skim it well, - 
 and put it in dry pans for use, with syrup enough to 
 cover it. 
 
 No. 177. Mirabelle Plums, Wet*. 
 
 Prick them all over, like the green gages, and put them 
 into cold water; when ready, put on the fire a pan full 
 of water; when it boils put in your mirabelles; as soon 
 as they rise on the top of the water take them out with a 
 skimmer, and put them into cold water: when cold, 
 drain them, take syrup, boil it to the little thread, and 
 preserve them as green gages.—(See No. 176.) 
 
 No. 178, Pears, Wet +. 
 
 The pulp of the eating pear should be tender, delicate, © 
 sugary, of a good flavour, and a little perfumed, the 
 juice sweet and perfumed ; and such as are scented must 
 
 * The Mirabelle Plum is not common in England ; it is found in 
 great abundance in the neighbourhood of Metz; and the confec- 
 tioners of that town carry on an extensive trade in them: when 
 preserved, they are packed in round boxes, each containing a 
 pound, and are forwarded to all parts of France, the continent, 
 and foreign countries. 
 
 ‘+ We have the following varieties of the Pear: Jargonel, Green 
 Chissel, Windsor, Charmontelle, Colmar Catherine, Beurré du 
 Roy, White Beurré, Winter Beurré, Orange, Bergamotte, Gansel 
 Bergamotte, Summer Bergamotte, Autumn Bergamotte, Summer 
 Bonchrétienne, Winter Bonchrétienne, St. Germain, Kamden’s 
 Bergamotte, Brown Beurré, Caditac Baking Pear, Worsted Baking 
 Pear, Parkinson’s Baking Pear. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 3 
 
 » not be very hard, strong, and stringy ; those for preserving 
 - must be sweet, fleshy, and rather firm. 
 
 Prick your pears all round with a fork, put them in a 
 pan on the fire, with water enough to swim in, and stir 
 them till they become soft, which you can ascertain by 
 feeling them ; take them out, throw them into cold water, 
 and pare them, leaving as little mark of the knife as 
 possible; put them into another pan of cold water, and 
 afterwards put them on the fire again to finish blanching 
 them, till you can easily thrust the head of a large pin 
 
 through them; put them again in cold water, drain 
 them and put them into a very light syrup, that is to 
 say, boiled to the small thread; let the syrup boil over 
 them twice, take them off, skim them, and put them in 
 an earthen pan; the next day drain your pears, and boil 
 your syrup a degree more; add, if necessary, a little 
 new syrup to replace that already imbibed by the pears. 
 Let them stand till the next day, when you must repeat 
 the same process; the fourth day drain off the syrup, 
 and boil it to the great pearl; put in your pears, and 
 give them a good boil over; take them off, skim them 
 well, and put them in dry pans for use. 
 
 No. 179. Peaches, wet. 
 
 The pulp of the peach should not be very firm, the skin 
 should be fine, and yellow, without any green spots ; the 
 fruit should melt in the mouth and its juice must be 
 sweet, and should have a taste of wine, and even of 
 musk; a slight down on the skin, and a small stone *, 
 
 * There are 22 sorts of Peaches: Royal George, Montauban, 
 Nobles, Early Ann, Red Magdalen, French Mignone, Galand, 
 Old Newington, Admirable, Early Want, Chancellor, Nivette, 
 Late Newington, Double Swalsh, Double Montague, Téton de 
 Venus, Early Newington, Late Violet, Nutmeg, Incomparable, 
 Millet, and Catherine Peaches. , 
 
 E 
 
eres _ ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 Take some very fine peaches, prick them with a 
 large needle, throw them mto cold water, and put them 
 -on the fire in the same water to blanch them; when you - 
 feel them soft, take them out, and put them again into 
 cold water; when cold, drain them, and arrange them in 
 an earthen pan; then cover them with syrup, which 
 must be boiled to the Jittle thread. The next day drain 
 off the syrup, boil it a degree more, skimming it care- 
 fully, and add a little more fresh syrup if required; the 
 third day repeat the same process; on the fourth day 
 drain them, and boil the syrup to the large pearl; put in 
 your peaches, and boil the syrup over them once; skim— 
 them well, and put them in dry pans for use, They may 
 be also cut in halves, and preserved in the same manner. 
 
 No. 180. Figs, wet. 
 
 Take nearly ripe figs, make an incision of half an inch in 
 length near the stem, and throw them into cold water; 
 then put them-on the fire, and let them boil at least half 
 an hour; take them out, put them into cold water, and 
 preserve them as in the preceding article. 
 
 No. I8l. Quinces, wet*. 
 
 Choose your quinces fine and ripe, of a clear yellow, 
 without spots; prick them with a fork, put them in a 
 pan of cold water, and put them on the fire; when ten- 
 der, take them off, and put them into cold water; when 
 cold, pare off the skin, cut them in quarters, and take 
 out the core; as you pare them, put them into a third 
 cold water, in which you must finish blanching them like 
 
 * There are three kinds of quinces: pear, apple, and Portugal 
 quinces. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. Wis) 
 
 the pears (see No. 178) ; preserve them in the same way, 
 if you wish them to be red, add some prepared cochi- 
 neal, (see colours,) or liquid carmine. 
 
 No. 182. Oranges cut in Figures. 
 
 Cut on the rind of your oranges stars, borders, or any 
 other fanciful ornament, but take care not to go deeper 
 than the pith or white; put them into a pan of boiling 
 water, boil them till the head of a pin will easily pene- 
 trate; throw them into cold water; take some syrup, 
 boil it to a thread, put in your oranges, which you must 
 have previously drained dry, boil them up six or eight 
 times, and put them by in a pan till next day, then drain 
 your fruit, boil up your syrup a few minutes, skim it well, 
 and pour it on the fruit; repeat the same process the 
 third day; the fourth day drain off your syrup, add 
 some fresh to it if required, and boil it to the large pearl ; 
 put in your oranges, boil them up, take them off, skim 
 them well, and put them in dry pans for. use. Tie them 
 down when cold. 
 
 No. 183. Whole Orange Peels.’ 
 
 Preserve them as the preceding, except that you must 
 take out the inside, with the handle of a table spoon, 
 or any tool you may have that will answer the purpose, 
 through a hole about the size of a shilling, at the stem of 
 the orange. When they are blanched you may easily 
 take out the pulp which adheres to the peel with the 
 same spoon or tool: these are sometimes filled with jelly, 
 which looks very pretty. 
 
 No. 184. Lemons cud in Figures, 
 
 Pick fine lemons, of which the rind is very smooth and 
 clear, and cut; blanch and preserve them as in No, 182. 
 
 E 2 
 
ae) ATALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 185. Cedraty. 
 
 ‘The cedraty, a fragrant and beautiful variety of the lemon 
 species, growing chiefly in Italy and the South of France, 
 is preserved in quarters in the same manner as the quince. 
 
 —(See No. 181.) 
 
 No. 186. Lemon Chips. 
 
 Take some fine lemons, with thick rinds, turn off the peel 
 in long chips, with a small knife, and put them, as they 
 are cut, into cold water; when you have turned the 
 necessary quantity, boil them till they may be crushed 
 between your finger and thumb ; then put them out into 
 cold water again; when cold, drain the water from them, 
 put them into a pan, or tub; take as much syrup as will 
 cover them, boil it to a thread, and pour it hot on your 
 chips. The next day drain off the syrup, boil it a degree 
 more, and pour it over your chips; repeat the same the 
 third day: the fourth day you must boil the syrup, to 
 the great pearl, and add some fresh syrup, as you see 
 necessary; put in your chips, and give them another 
 boil: they are now fit for use. If you wish to candy 
 them, drain them two or three hours before on a sieve, 
 - or you may put some in rock candy, which you must 
 dry in the stove the day before, and afterwards turn 
 them round on your finger. 
 
 No. 187. Orange Chips 
 
 Are made in the same manner as lemon chips. 
 
 No. 188. Angelica, 
 
 Choose some fine tender Angelica stems, and having cut 
 them into proper lengths of from six to eight inches, put 
 them in water on the fire; when ready to boil take it off 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, V7 
 
 and let it stand for an hour, it will then be soft enough 
 -to allow the filaments and the upper skin to be drawn 
 out with a knife; as you do them, put them into cold 
 water, next boil them till they look whitish, then take 
 them off, and put in a handful of salt ; let them cool in 
 the water; when cold, take them out and throw them into 
 cold water; drain them, boil your syrup to a thread (see 
 No. 6), and preserve them as greengages.—(See No. 176.) 
 
 No. 189. Chesnuts. 
 
 Take any quantity of chesnuts you wish to preserve, take 
 off the rind with a knife, and throw them as you do them 
 into a pan of cold water; when done, put them on the 
 fire, and blanch them; then take off carefully their inside 
 skin, and put them into another pan, with an extremely 
 light syrup; that is to say, just sweetened: put your pan 
 by the side of the fire, and then let them just simmer for 
 a whole day, taking care not to let them boil; adding to 
 them, from time to time, a little syrup. The next day 
 continue the same operation, till your syrup comes to a 
 good consistence, so as to keep ; when you wish to make 
 use of your chesnuts, take them out of the syrup, and 
 put them to drain; then put in a small copper pan, a 
 small quantity of syrup; boil it to a blow, then take it 
 off, and when rather-cold, work it against the edges of 
 your pan, with a spaddle, till it becomes brilliant; then 
 dip your chesnuts in, take them out, and put to drain on 
 a wire; then put them to dry a few minutes ona stove, 
 They ought to be very brilliant, and great precaution fs 
 required in preserving them, 
 
 No, 190. Green Hops, wet. 
 
 Choose some of the finest green gooseberries, and with a 
 penknife slit them across down to the stem, and take 
 
78 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 out the seeds; then have a needle and white thread, 
 making a knot at the end, and take one of your prepared 
 gooseberries, and pass the needle through the stem end ; 
 then take another, and so on, till you have formed a re- 
 semblance of the hops, then fasten off your thread. Put 
 them in a pan of cold water, with a handful of salt, and. 
 let. them stand all night; the next day put them ina 
 pan of fresh water, and then on the fire to blanch them 
 till quite tender; drain them off, and preserve them as 
 green apricots.—(See No. 167.) 
 
 No. 191. Whole Pine Apple. 
 
 Break off the top and stem of your pines, trim them well, 
 ‘and prick them all over with a fork, then put them into 
 a pan of water and boil them till tender; take them out 
 and put them into cold water; when cold drain them 
 quite dry, and put them in a glass jar, or a pan; take 
 syrup enough to cover them, boil it to a thread, and pour 
 it on your pines; let them stand two or three days, then 
 drain off your syrup, boil it a degree more, skim it well, 
 ‘and pour it over your pines ; repeat this three days more, 
 adding some new syrup as the pines imbibe the first 
 quantity; the sixth day you must boil your sugar to the 
 great pearl, then put in your pines and give them a boil 
 up; take them off, skim them well, and put them in dry 
 pans for use. 
 
 No. 192. Pine-Apple Chips. 
 
 Cut your preserved pine apples in slices, half an inch’ 
 thick, wash them in warm water, and place them on hair 
 sieves, so as they do not touch each other ; sift some 
 fine-powdered sugar over them, and put them in the stove 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.. "“ 
 
 for four days ; turn and sift some more sugar over them 
 every day; when dry, put them in boxes, with white 
 paper between each layer. 
 
 No. 193. Green Gooseberries. 
 
 Take large green gooseberries, pick them, and run a pen= 
 knife through them, then put them on the fire in a pan. 
 of water, with a handful of salt; stir them till they rise 
 on the water, then take them out, and throw them into 
 cold water; when cold, drain and preserve them like 
 green apricots.—(See No. 167.) 
 
 No, 194. Cucumbers or Gerkins. 
 
 Choose some fresh and very green cucumbers, free from 
 specks, and prick them all over with a fork ; put them 
 on the fire in a pan of water, with a handful of salt, let 
 them boil till quite tender, take them out, throw them 
 into cold water, drain and preserve them as the green- 
 
 gages.—(See No. 176.) 
 
 No. 195. Damsons, wet. 
 
 Fill your preserving-pan half full of syrap, boil it to a 
 thread ; put in as many damsons as will swim in the 
 syrup, warm them on a slow fire till they burst, then take» 
 them off, and let them stand till the next day. Drain 
 off the syrup, add, if necessary, some fresh syrup, boil it. 
 to. a strong thread, skim it well, and then put in your dam- 
 sons ; give them a boil round, and let them stand till the: 
 next day; drain off the syrup, and boil it to the large 
 pearl; boil your fruit in it a few minutes, and then put it 
 in dry pans for use. | | 
 
80 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 196, Mogul Plums *. 
 
 Take moguls, neither too ripe nor too green, that is, when 
 they begin to turn yellow; prick them all over witha 
 fork, and put them into cold water ; put them on the fire © 
 with sufficient water, so that they do not rub against one 
 another, add a handful of salt, and stir them till they are 
 tender ; you must be very careful, as they will soon go to ~ 
 pieces, and spoil; take them out, and put them into cold 
 water : when cold, drain and preserve them as in No. 176. 
 
 No. 197. Currants in Bunches +. 
 
 Take the finest red or white currants you can get, open - 
 them on one side, and take out the seeds with a needle, 
 and tie as many of them together by the stalk, with red 
 thread, as will form a pretty bunch; weigh them, and for 
 every pound of fruit, take one pound and a half of clari- 
 fied sugar (see No. 2) ; boil it to the great pearl; put in 
 your bunches of currants, and boil them all over well; 
 take them off, let them stand five minutes, and skim them 
 well. Repeat this twice more; you will know when they 
 are done, as the syrup boils exactly like the currant jelly. 
 —(See No, 139.) 
 
 * The plum should melt in the mouth, should be sweet, and have 
 a little perfume in its flavour. There are twenty sorts of plums; 
 Early Morocco, Early Damask, Orleans, Green Gage, Primordian, 
 Black Damask, La Royale, Great Damask, Egg Plum, Apricot 
 Plum, Catherine, Red Imperial, Drap d'Or, Imperatrice, Damson, 
 Wine Sour, Violet, Perdrigon, Blue Gage, Bullace, and Mirabelle 
 Plums. | 
 
 + The white currants possess the same qualities as the red, and 
 are. generally larger. The different kinds are, White Grape, 
 Common White, Common Red, Champaigne, and Black Cur- 
 rants, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. Sk 
 
 No. 198. On Candying Fruit. 
 
 The fruit you mean to candy must be taken from its 
 syrup, washed clean in lukewarm water, and dried in the 
 stove ; for, without that precaution, the candy would not 
 adhere to the fruit.- Boil some syrup to a blow, and put 
 in your fruit; but as they will lessen the degree of your 
 syrup, boil it up till it is at the blow again ; then take the 
 pan off the fire, let it stand a few minutes, and grain your 
 sugar by rubbing the inside of the pan with a skimmer; 
 when the sugar begins to whiten, take your fruit separately,. 
 and stir it into the white part ; take the fruit out with a. 
 fork, and place it on a wire grating over a pan, to drain > 
 it dries directly, and remains s brilliant. 
 
 No. 199. Clear Cakes. 
 Take any kind of jelly (see Apple Jelly, No. 143, and 
 
 following numbers) ; but for this purpose it must not be so 
 much boiled as usual, because a crust or candy on the 
 surface is requisite. When the jelly is boiled, whether 
 red or white, put it into pots about the depth of half an 
 inch, more or less, and place them in the stove of a proper 
 heat (see No. 201) ; leave them for a day, and then see 
 whether a crust be formed on the surface ; if so, carefully 
 take the cakes out with a knife, by turning it close to the 
 pot ; then lay them on plates of tin extremely clean: they 
 may be cut into any shape you please, as ovals, squares, 
 lozenges, &c.; then put them back into the stove, that 
 they may form a crust all over ; take them from the tin 
 when firm, and finish drying them on sieves in the stove: 
 they are now fit tocandy.—(See Candied Jelly, No. 28.) 
 They may also be used without candying, for garnishing, 
 
 and for various purposes. 
 E5 
 
§2. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Section X.—THE STOVE, AND DEGREE 
 OF HEAT. 
 
 No. 200. The Stove. 
 
 Tuts is indispensable, and it is equally important for the 
 confectioner that he should study the different degrees of 
 heat, so as to proportion the exact heat necessary for a 
 particular article by the thermometer. A drying stove 
 must always be heated by another external stove, the flues 
 of which should cross it at the bottom, the stove being put 
 against the back of it. The flues should lay inside, and 
 be placed in the angles, to give the stove an equal and 
 continued heat, which heat may be regulated by increas- 
 ing and diminishing the quantity of fire in the outside 
 stove ; the drying stove is thus kept clean and free from 
 the least dust, which could not be the case were it heated 
 with charcoal, or any other fuel fire, placed inside for 
 that purpose. These stoves must have iron bars to sup- 
 port the sieves, plates, wire-gratings, or any other thing 
 put to dry on them. The door of the stove must shut. 
 close, and the whole stove must be close, and fire-proof ; 
 two circular openings, tbree cr four inches over, at the 
 side, having: each their little door, must be made to let. 
 out and evaporate the excess of heat; they must be 
 near the top. A Reanmur’s thermometer must be 
 placed withinside, to ascertain the proper degree of heat. 
 
 No. 201. Degree of Heat. 
 
 This must be regulated according to the nature of the 
 
 confections exposed to it: 
 Degrees. 
 Sugar Candy, at eight days ‘ : : : 4 or 
 Candy in three or four hours 2 4 3) a, 106 
 
LTALIAN CONFECTIONERS. 83. 
 
 KG if fi ; ‘Degrees. > 
 , When it drains, to facilitate and dry the candy . 120 | 
 Dry fruit, such as cherries, strawberries, &c. (more 
 
 heat would make them black) ...,. SO a: 
 The finest biscuits, iced, white or coloured eae . 
 Comfits, to whiten them,during their making, from 70 to 75 
 Liqueur Drops ... . ‘ tye gine 80 
 
 Blanched Almonds, whether to use whole, or to pre- 
 serve for winter . ; ‘ : ‘ ai 70 
 
 In summer the almonds may be dried in the air, as too” 
 much heat will occasion them to separate. Observe, 
 that the degree of heat is always stronger at the top of 
 the stove than in any other part. 
 
 t 
 
 Section XI.—OF TABLETS AND ROCK SUGAR. 
 
 No. 202. Conserve Tablets, 
 
 THEsE are wrought sugar made in the form of a tablet; 
 they contain a part of the pulp of fruits, or are flavoured 
 with essences. They are agreeable to the taste, and serve 
 as an ornament to asietles montées for the dessert. 
 
 No. 203. Orange-Flower Tablets. 
 2lbs. of double-refined Sugar, 1b. of Orange- Flowers. 
 
 Clarify, and boil to the large feather, two pounds of 
 double-refined loaf-sugar; take half a pound of picked 
 orange-flowers, cut them up with a knife, not very small, 
 wetting them with lemon-juice to preserve their white- 
 ness; then throw them into your sugar, and boil it up 
 
84. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 again to the degree just mentioned, Take the pan from 
 
 the fire, let the mixture rest for a few minutes, and then 
 
 work it with a spaddle, rubbing it round the edges of the 
 
 pan: when you observe a bright icy appearance on the 
 surface, stir it in the middle with the spaddle, and pour 
 
 it ina paper, formed as a large case.. Mark the cake 
 
 with the point of a knife of the size you intend your 
 
 tablets to be, and when cold it will easily break in the 
 proper pieces, 
 
 No. 204. Fruit Tablets, 
 41b. of Fruit, 2lbs. of Sugar, 
 
 Take any fruit in season, and make half a pound of pulp 
 (see Fruit Paste, No. 146); boil two pounds of sugar, 
 as directed in the preceding article, and finish them in 
 the same manner. 
 
 No. 205. Flower and Essence Tablets 
 
 Are made in the same manner as the  orange-flower 
 tablets (see No, 203), using what flowers or essence you 
 please, as roses, violets, pinks, &c.; pound them in a 
 marble mortar, adding the juice of a lemon, 
 
 } No. 206. Pistachio Tablets. 
 ~S1b. of Pistachios, 2lbs. of Sugar. 
 
 Put into boiling water half a pound of pistachio kernels, 
 when the skins will easily come off; then take them off 
 the fire, throw them into cold water, and strip off all the 
 skins; pound them quite fine in a marble mortar, very 
 clean, with some juice of spinach to make them green; 
 when completely levigated, proceed as for the other 
 tablets, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 85> 
 
 “No, 207, Almond Tablets 
 
 Are made in the same way as the preceding. Before the. 
 almonds are used they may be put into an oven, just long 
 enough to colour them, as it improves their taste: they 
 must be pounded with orange-flower water. 
 
 No. 208. Chocolate Tablets. 
 
 Two ounces of chocolate, and one pound of sugar, pre- 
 pared as above, the chocolate being previously dissolved 
 in a very small quantity of warm water, 
 
 No. 209, Rock Sugar, 
 
 Take double-refined sugar in proportion to the rock sugar 
 you wish to make; clarify it, let it rest; then take small 
 quantities, according to the colours you want; put into 
 a very clean pan some whites of eggs, but leave no par- 
 ticle of the yolk, which would spoil your work; add some 
 double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through a silk 
 sleve, make an iceing of it, or what the confectioners call 
 a royal iceing, and work it as long as possible with a little 
 wooden spaddle; divide it into four or six little pots, 
 according to the colours you wish to have, and then add 
 the colours (see Colours, No. 515); put some more 
 sugar, to make it as firm as it was before. When ready, 
 put the syrup on the fire in a pan, boil it to the little 
 crack, take the pan from the fire, put in about the size 
 of a walnut of this iceing with your spaddle, and mix it with 
 your sugar, turning it round very quickly, without stop- 
 ping; the sugar will rise directly, then let it fall, and 
 when it rises the second time, pour it into a hair sieve, 
 keeping the sieve covered a moment with your pan, that 
 
86. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.. 
 
 it may not fall or become flat. In making rock sugar, 
 much depends on the exact degree of heat, the Sieve 
 of the work, and lightness of the iceing. 
 
 No. 210. Mushroom in Rock Sugar. 
 
 The mushroom in rock sugar is a a great ornament to the 
 table. It must havea stand, or pedestal, made of paste- 
 board, which may be of any form you please, as a pyramid, 3 
 or two drums, placed, the one above the other, the upper 
 one being smallest, and fitted with a hollow tube pro- 
 jecting from its centre, to receive the stalk of the mush-- 
 room. ‘The three pieces of this frame-work must be held 
 together, and may be ornamented according to fancy, 
 either in gum-paste, gold, or silver, and the steps of the. 
 pyramid, or drums, must be made wide enough to contain 
 different articles of dessert. 
 
 To make a mushroom, you must have a tin mould of 
 that shape, opening in the middle with hinges.—See plate 
 I. fig. 15.) —Commence in the same manner as for rock 
 sugar, pouring the sugar into the mould instead of a 
 sieve; it must be lined with buttered paper, cut out at 
 the top, and covering the whole of the upper part of the 
 mould: the moulds are about eight inches im diameter 
 at the head, and the stem about ten inches long, and two 
 and a half in diameter; place a nosegay in it when you 
 serve it up. 
 
 No, 211. Vases in Rock Sugar. 
 
 Vases have a pretty effect on a table filled with flowers, 
 and ornamented with gum-paste, with pedestals made of 
 pasteboard, ornamented in the same manner, or in gold 
 or silver. You must have plaster moulds hardened with 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 87 
 
 drying oil, or if not hardened, dip them in cold water, 
 and there let them remain a quarter of an hour while you 
 prepare the sugar; wipe them well with a sponge, and 
 put your stigar in them as directed—(See Rock Sugar, 
 No. 209.)—The moisture of the mould is forced out by 
 the heat of the sugar, which detaches itself easier than by 
 any other means. Baskets, perfuming pans, pyramids, 
 and figures, are all made in the same way. 
 
 No, 212. Eggs in Rock Sugar.. 
 
 Make moulds which open in two equal parts, shaped on 
 large eges; place them on a table, and take sugar pre= 
 pared as at No. 209, and fill one half of each mould, 
 while your assistant closes them instantly and. completely. 
 They are very light, and look very natural. 
 
 No, 213. Eggs in Grained Sugar. 
 
 To make egg-shells as thin as natural ones, take moulds 
 in lead, opening in two, and run one side in grained 
 sugar, as for bon-bons (see No. 53); another person 
 must instantly close it, turning it round in his hands till 
 the sugar has taken all round the mould inside; there 
 must be a person to every two moulds, as only one can 
 be turned in the hand at a time; the egg comes out: 
 whole, having neither opening nor seam ; it is empty and 
 transparent, nor can any one imagine how it is made. 
 Fruit, or anything else, may be imitated in the same 
 manner. If you choose to break one end of the egg, it 
 may be filled with yellow cream, to represent the yolk of 
 = dene egg. 
 
88 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Section XII.—OF COMPOTES, 
 
 No. 214. Compotes. 
 
 Compotes are served up in compotiers, with a thin syrup, 
 as an accompaniment to ices, All sorts of fruits are pre- 
 pared as if to be preserved, except that they are not 
 boiled so much : in winter you must use preserves, which 
 must be taken from their own syrup to be put into a 
 thinner one, with the juice of a lemon, 
 
 No. 215. Green Apricot Compote. 
 
 Blanch and prepare green apricots as for preserves (see 
 No. 167) ; when blanched, take them from the fire, cover 
 them with a napkin to make them recover their green 
 colour, and throw them into cold water, draining them 
 onasieve. ‘Take fine clarified sugar, and make it boil, 
 put in the apricots, and let the syrup cover them; boil 
 them up, take them from the fire, and let them imbibe the 
 sugar for four or five hours; drain them, boil the syrup to 
 the great thread, and put the fruit, covered with the 
 syrup, into a pan; when cold you may serve them up in 
 compotiers, Observe, that they will not keep many days, 
 except they are boiled every other day; they are made 
 as above only to be used immediately, or the next day at 
 furthest. 
 
 No. 216. Green Almond Compote. 
 
 The almonds intended for the compote must be so tender — 
 that a pin will easily go through them. It is made in the 
 same way as the preceding. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 89° 
 
 No, 217. Green Gooseberry Compote. 
 
 Open your gooseberries, and take out the seeds, blanch 
 them in water, and put them on the fire without boiling 
 them ; as soon as they rise on the water take them off, 
 and let them stand to cool before you drain them; when 
 drained, proceed as for green apricot compote, in No, 
 
 dS 
 ; No, 218, Cherry Compote. 
 
 Take some fine cherries, cut off half the stalks, and wash 
 them in cold water, and let them drain. Boil some syrup 
 to a pearl, put in your cherries, and boil them on a strong 
 fire, letting them boil up five or six times, as red fruit 
 preserves its colour best by'a great heat. Take them 
 from the fire, move them a little with a spaddle, let them 
 cool, and put them in the compotiers. You may take 
 the stones out if you please, | 
 
 No, 219. Raspberry Compote. 
 
 Choose some fine, clean, and ripe raspberries; wash 
 them, boil some syrup to a blow, and put in the raspber- 
 ries, and take them off again almost instantly, as they 
 must not be suffered to boil. Leave them in the syrup 
 four or five hours, put them on the fire again, and warm 
 them till they are near boiling; afterwards let them cool, 
 and put them in your compotiers, 
 
 No. 220. Currant Compote. 
 
 You may use either red or white currants; take out the 
 seeds, and put the fruit into cold water, draining it on a 
 sieve ; boil some syrup to a feather, throw in the currants, : 
 
90 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 and let them boil up two or three times; take them off, 
 skim them perfectly clean, then let them stand to cool, 
 and serve them up in compotiers. 
 
 No. 221. Ripe Apricot Compote. 
 
 Take some very fine apricots, peel them, divide them into 
 halves, and take out the stones ; prick them all over with 
 a large needle, and blanch them carefully; press each 
 singly between your fingers to squeeze out the water; put 
 them in the syrip, and finish them as above. 
 
 No. 222. Whole Apricot Compote. 
 
 Make a small cut near the stalk of the apricot, take out 
 the stones, prick them all over, blanch them, and care- 
 fully press them as above; put them in syrup, and finish 
 as before. 
 
 No. 223. Plum Compote. 
 
 Prepare your plums like the mirabelles (see No. 177); 
 but if green, as in No. 176, put them in the syrup, and 
 let it cover them ; they must boil up two or three times, 
 
 Leave the plums in the syrup a day, or till evening; boil 
 them up again all over, and skim them well; let tem: 
 cool, and. they are then fit to serve up. 
 
 No. 224. Peach Compote. 
 
 Put the fruit into boiling water, take off the skins, and 
 stone them, and finish as for apricots. 
 
 No. 225, roe Comanne 
 
 If the pears be small you need not cut them; the large 
 ones must be cut in half. Boil them m water till they 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. oF 
 
 are soft to the touch, pare them clean, scrape the stalk, 
 and put them in cold water; drain. them, and put them 
 into. syrup boiled to a thread ; boil them on a strong fire 
 till they are perfectly done ; “4 the syrup be not ‘suffi- 
 ciently reduced, take out your pears, and boil up the 
 syrup and let it cool; put the pears into the syrup, and’ 
 serve it up. If you wish the pears to be white, put the 
 juice of a lemon into the syrup while boiling. The lemon 
 flavour is very agreeable in almost every compote. 
 
 No. 226, Broiled Pear Compote. 
 
 Put the pears on the live coals of a very bright fire, that 
 the skins may broil ; when done, take them off with the 
 tongs, and throw them into cold water; rub off the skin, 
 or burnt parts, with a cloth, put them in syrup, and finish 
 as above. 
 
 No. 227. Pear Compote, with Wine. 
 
 Choose very ripe pears, peel them, and cut them in 
 halves; put them ina silver pan, with a glass of good 
 wine, and some pulverised sugar and cinnamon; let them 
 broil, and reduce the syrup; when done, take them off, 
 and put them into a silver compotier, and. cover it with 
 your pan to make them a fine colour. . 
 
 No. 228. Apple Compote. 
 
 Take fine apples and cut them in two, peel them, take 
 out the core, put them into cold water, take them out, 
 and put them into a thin syrup, boil them till they are 
 soft, and then put them into the compotiers ; strain the 
 syrup through a silk sieve, and then add it to your apples. 
 
92 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 229. Apple Compote in Jelly. 
 
 Prepare your apples as for the preceding; cut some into 
 small bits, according to the quantity of compote you wish 
 to make, and put them, with the halves, into a very thin 
 syrup. When the halves are tolerably soft, put them into 
 the compotiers, and reduce the small pieces with the 
 
 . . syrup; if the syrup be not of a sufficient jelly, strain it 
 
 through a sieve, and boil it to a proper consistence (see 
 No. 138) ; then pour it over your apples. 
 
 No. 230. Stuffed Apple Compote. 
 
 Prick your apples with the point of a knife, make a hole 
 through them, take out the cores without breaking them, 
 fillthem with marmalade of apricots, and bake them, 
 taking care to stop the hole with a piece of apple. . 
 
 No. 231. Quince Compote. 
 
 Cut your quinces into quarters, peel them, take out the 
 cores, blanch them quite tender, and put them into cold 
 water, and let them drain; put them into your syrup, 
 boil them up five or six times, and they are finished. 
 
 No. 232. Nut Compote. 
 
 Prepare and blanch your nuts as directed in No. 175, 
 put them in the syrup, and let them simmer on the fire 
 without boiling ; leave them five or six hours in the syrup, 
 then put them again on the fire, and let them simmer ; 
 when cold put them in the compotier. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, ‘93 
 
 233. Barberry Compote. 
 
 Take some fine very ripe barberries, pick them from the 
 ‘stalks, throw them into syrup boiled to a blow ; boil them 
 up five or six times, and then pour them into the com- 
 potiers. 
 
 No. 234. Chesnut Compote. 
 
 Roast your chesnuts, peel them clean, and flatten them a. 
 dittle with your hands; put them in syrup, and warm 
 them a little on the fire that the syrup may penetrate ; add 
 ‘a little lemon juice, and some lemon chips, and put them 
 in the compotiers; sprinkle them over with powdered 
 sugar, and glaze them with a salamander. 
 
 No. 235. Strawberry Compote. 
 
 The strawberry is naturally so delicious a fruit that it 
 seldom requires the art of the confectioner. To make 
 this compote, put the strawberries in the compotiers, and 
 pour over them a raspberry or currant jelly boiling-hot. 
 
 No. 236, Elder-Flower Compote. 
 
 Make a very strong decoction of elder-flowers, strain it 
 through a silk sieve, and use it to boil some apples in, 
 (which you must have previously peeled and cut in small 
 pieces, ) free from speck or blemish ; stir them with your 
 spaddle, and make them into a kind of apple paste or 
 marmalade, and add sugar to the reduced pulp. When 
 of the proper consistence, put the marmalade into a sil- 
 ver compotier, and cover it with a stewing pan, upon the 
 top of which you put some live coals to give it a fine 
 crust without making it red-hot or burning it. This 
 compote may be decorated with jellies of different colours. 
 
94 ‘ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 237. Compote of Orange Peel. 
 
 Peel some fine China oranges, take off the white or pith 
 very clean, and cut the peels up as fine as vermicelli ; 
 blanch them, put them in a sieve to drain, then put them 
 in syrup, and boil them up five or six times. 
 
 No. 238. Orange Compote 
 
 Is made without boiling the oranges ; they are only to be 
 peeled, cut in slices, the core taken out ; add some syrup 
 or sugar in powder, and the juice of an orange. : 
 
 No. 239. Masked Compotes 
 
 Include all such as have been mentioned; covered or 
 masked with a red or white jelly, which is to be made as 
 directed in No. 138. It is to be run very thin on a silver 
 dish, and then suffered to cool. When you wish to use 
 it, you can take it off by slightly warming the dish on the 
 fire, and then cover the compote which you wish to mask. 
 You may likewise stain the edges with a colour which 
 may be eaten, leaving the centre white, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 95 
 
 Section XIIJ.—OF COMPITS, 
 No. 240. Of Comfits. 
 
 A Comrtr is an almond, fruit, seed, or paste, inclosed in 
 a covering of sugar, formed of different layers; the 
 _ beauty and quality of the sugar are its chief recommen- 
 dation. The best comfits are made at Verdun, in 
 ‘France, and the following method is that of Messrs. Le 
 Roux and Courronne, confectioners of that town. They 
 use the same utensils and tools as in England, and have 
 a copper basin, or pan, with handles at the side and at 
 both ends in iron; two cords are attached to a balance, 
 to which the pan is slung by two pieces of iron formed 
 like an S; this is called the balancing pan.—(See plate 
 I]. fig. 2.)—The following are also necessary: an iron 
 vessel, or chafling-dish, to contain charcoal, placed under 
 the pan, and five or six inches from it: another basin or 
 pan, larger and flatter, fixed ona tub or barrel, with an 
 opening, is used to make fine nonpareils as well as com- 
 fits, of every form; a copper beading pan, made in the 
 shape of a funnel, with a spindle in the centre to regu- 
 late the syrup, and pearl the comfits, a tool which gave 
 the idea of mine for drops (see plate I. fig. 8); sieves of 
 leather, perforated, of different sizes; a small charcoal 
 stove, or brazier, to keep the syrup in the pan of an 
 equal heat, and a ladle to pour it on the comfits. 
 
 No. 241. Almond Comfits. 
 
 Take ten‘pounds of Jordan almonds, picked, of equal 
 size, put them into boiling water to peel them; throw 
 them into cold water, and put them on sieves to dry in 
 
96 ATALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the air; when nearly dry, put them in the stove to finish 
 drying ; next dissolve some gum Senegal in water, pass 
 it through a silk sieve, that it may be particularly clean, 
 and take eight pounds of syrup, boil it to the strong 
 thread, put in a table spoonful of the gum Senegal to 
 give it a body; take it from the fire, and place it at your 
 right hand on the little charcoal brazier, the fire of which 
 must be covered with ashes lest it should be too fierce, 
 and to keep the sugar of an equal heat. Now put the 
 almonds, blanched as above, into the comfit-pan de- 
 scribed in the last article, and give them two charges of 
 eum; dry the almonds well each time, then give them a 
 small charge of syrup, but do not moisten them too much, 
 as that would take off the gum. The syrup must then be 
 added at six different times, increasing the quantity each 
 charge; the eighth time put half gum and half syrup; 
 rub the almonds with your left hand to make them take 
 equally, and not stick to each other, and continue the 
 same till your comfits are of the size you wish, sifting 
 them every tenth charge, to take away the dust of the 
 sugar which is formed in the pan; and if the pan be- 
 comes very rough, you must wash it. When the comfits 
 are of a proper size, take them out of the pan on a 
 sieve, and put them in the stove till the next day. 
 Clarify, in spring water, some fine loaf-sugar, boil it to 
 a strong thread, let the first charge have a little gum in 
 it, giving twelve charges, adding likewise to the eighth 
 charge some gum arabic, or Senegal; be careful to dry 
 every charge well, that your almonds may be white, 
 keeping only a moderate heat under the pan, as too much 
 heat would spoil their whiteness. On the third day take 
 double refined sugar, clarify, and boil it to the little 
 pearl; give the almonds ten charges, let each charge be 
 less than the preceding one, and to whiten them, dry 
 them for half an hour, between each charge, shaking 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 97 
 
 » them very gently, and keeping them just warm; take 
 »-them out, sift them, and put them in the stove till next 
 wee On the fourth day, to smooth the comfits, take 
 ‘some of the whitest crystallized sugar, boiled to the little 
 . thread; ; give the comfits three charges, without fire under 
 » them; take care to work them longer than usual, put a 
 - gentle fire under them to dry them, and then put them 
 in boxes, 
 
 No. 242. Comfits in Liqueurs. 
 
 _ Take ten pounds of the kernels of apricots, or bitter 
 almonds, and put them into hot water to open their pores, 
 that the liqueur may penetrate; take them from the 
 water and let them drain a few minutes; put into a jug 
 
 the spirits you prefer, as maraschino, brandy, coffee, 
 roses, orange-flower, &c. (see No. 25); this must be 
 twenty-two or twenty-three degrees of strength, temper- 
 ing them with water, that it may penetrate your almonds ; 
 infuse them in the spirit, cork the jug or pot well to pre- 
 vent evaporation, put it in a warm place for a fortnight; 
 take out the almonds, and drain and dry them in the 
 stove ; when perfectly dry, make them in comfits, as 
 described in the preceding article. 
 
 No. 243. Almonds, with Vanilla, 
 
 Are prepared in the same way as the others, adding, 
 when about half their size, in the process of covering 
 
 _them with sugar, two ounces of good vanilla, pounded 
 with sugar, and sifted through a silk sieve ; mix this with 
 the syrup intended to lay over them ; it will be concealed 
 by the white sugar when finished. 
 
98 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 No, 244. Almond Comfits of various flavours. 
 
 Rose and orange-flower almonds are made by clarifying 
 the sugar with water distilled from those flowers: berga- 
 motte, jessamine, cedraty, orange, cinnamon, cloves, &c. 
 &c. are made by adding essences to the syrup with which 
 you give the comfits the central layers. 
 
 No. 245. Rose Almonds 
 
 Are to be made as above. To colour them, put some 
 liquid carmine in the syrup intended for the last ten 
 charges; on the third day add gum Senegal in the first 
 charge. Take care that the almonds are only luke- 
 warm, as too much heat makes them take the heat in 
 ' plots. Each charge must be gradually diminished, so 
 that the last must be a very small one ; on the fourth day, 
 smooth them, as directed in No. 241, with fine sugar, 
 
 but no colour; they must have three charges to give 
 them a gloss. 
 
 No. 246. Cinnamon Almonds. 
 
 As before; only at every fourth layer of sugar, you must 
 add gum Senegal, and a litte pulverized cinnamon. 
 Striped almonds, or those which show various colours in 
 stripes, when broken, are made by mixing a different 
 colour in every four or six charges of sugar, and after- 
 wards covering the whole with white. 
 
 No, 247. Egg Comfits. 
 
 Have the two halves of an egg made.in box-wood; take 
 some gum paste, roll it out quite thin, and put into the 
 casts, make it lay close, cut off with a knife the outside 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 99 
 
 edges quite smooth, let them dry, and prepare what you 
 mean to put into them. They are usually filled with 
 imitations of all sorts of fruits. (See No. 501.)—In 
 Paris they put in a number of nicknacks, little alma- 
 nacks, smelling bottles with essences, and even things 
 of value, for presents. Join the two halves with some of 
 the same paste, moistened with a little water and some 
 gum arabic; then proceed as in No. 141. 
 
 No. 248. Nut Comfits. 
 
 Crack a quantity of nuts, take eight pounds of good ker- 
 nels, and put them in the stove for four or five days to 
 dry ; make a good fire under your pan for comfits, and 
 put in your nuts, rub your hand over them to take off the 
 loose skins, sift them, that no dust may remain, and put 
 them back in the pan, which is slung to a balance, then 
 proceed as in No. 241. They may be flavoured with any 
 essence you choose. 
 
 No. 249. Pistachio Comfits. 
 
 Take eight pounds of pistachio kernels, the finest and 
 
 greenest you can get, put them in the stove to dry a little, 
 
 and proceed as in No. 241. The hollow at the top of 
 the pistachios must be filled up with sugar. For this 
 
 purpose, sift some sugar through a silk sieve, and powder 
 the nuts in the first three charges, to cover the inequali-- 
 ties of the pistachio, without causing them to stick toge-- 
 ther. To make them taste of roses, orange-flower, &c. 
 
 the sugar must be clarified with the distilled water of 
 those flowers. To give them any other flavour, add the- 
 different essences to the middle layers, if you wish to colour 
 them.—(See No. 245.) 
 
 F 2 
 
100 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 200. Cinnamon Comfits. 
 
 As the bark of the cassia lignea is frequently sold for 
 cinnamon of Ceylon, be particular to choose it of a dark 
 colour, of a fine taste, strong smell, and leaving no muci- 
 lage in the mouth when chewed. Some confectioners 
 purchase the bark of the cassia lignea above noticed, as 
 the price is very moderate ; but this is a false calculation, 
 as it requires more than double the quantity of cassia to 
 give anything like the taste of cinnamon; when used in 
 comfits, the former gives no taste whatever. Take a 
 pound of cinnamon, steep it two or three hours in warm 
 water to soften it, till it is easy to cut it into little pieces 
 half an inch long, as thin as possible; when cut, put it 
 into the stove to dry; when sufficiently dry, put it into 
 the pan slung over a charcoal fire, then take a whisk, 
 dip it into your syrup, boiled to the strong thread, and 
 shake it over the cinnamon with your left hand, shaking 
 the pan with the right, to move the cinnamon; give 
 eight or ten charges, taking care to shake it well till each 
 is dry. Repeat this operation two or three times a-day, 
 ‘till you perceive that the cinnamon is white, and of a 
 sufficient consistence to allow you to put the syrup on 
 with a ladle; when the pieces of cinnamon are com- 
 pletely covered, whiten them, giving them eight small 
 charges ; not forgetting to dry them after every charge, 
 shaking them gently. ‘Take care also to sift them every 
 time you see any dust in the pan, and each time you put 
 them into the stove todry. When the comfits are white, 
 have some syrup boiled to a pearl in your beading funnel, 
 suspended to a cord, tied across the work-room by a 
 spindle to direct the sugar, which must flow like a small 
 thread gradually on the comfits, which you must con- 
 tinue to shake as gently as possible, and then put them 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. LOL 
 
 again into the stove. The next day continue the same 
 operation, increasing the quantity of syrup; on the third 
 and last day, use the double-refined sugar clarified. 
 
 No. 251. Angelica Cemfits. 
 
 ‘Cut some fine stems of angelica into little rings, blanch 
 them in hot water, throw them into cold water, drain them 
 off, and put them into syrup; boil them till the syrup 
 comes to the pearl; take them off on sieves to dry in the 
 stove, minding to turn them from time to time, that they 
 may not adhere to each other; when dry, put them into 
 the comfit pan, and work them as the cinnamon comfits. 
 
 No. 252. Lemon Comfits. 
 
 Take some lemon peel, and clearit from the pith, leaving 
 only a thin rind, which you must cut into small threads 
 like the cinnamon; blanch and prepare them as the 
 angelica, and finish in the same manner.—Orange comfits 
 the same. 
 
 No. 253. Celery Comfits. 
 
 Take half a pound of clean celery seeds, and put them in 
 the pan placed on the barrel, and warmed by the chaffing- 
 dish ; pour some syrup on them without the gum Senegal, 
 working them with both hands; when they are large 
 enough, put them in the stove for 24 or 48 hours, that 
 they may be perfectly dry; put them back in the pan, 
 give them eight charges of white syrup to whiten them, 
 taking care to dry them well each time, and then put them 
 in the stove ; the next day put them into the balancing 
 pan, pour some syrup into the beading funnel boiled to a 
 pearl. Continue and finish them in two days as for the 
 cinnamon.—(See No. 290.) 
 
102 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 254. Cherry Comfits. 
 
 Take ten pounds of dried cherries (see No, 164), roll 
 them singly in your hands to make them round, and put 
 ihem ina sieve, sprinkled with fine sugar, and roll them 
 well in it, to prevent their sticking to one another; put 
 them in the stove; when dry, place them in the balanced 
 ‘comfit pan, and give them a charge of gum Senegal, 
 stirring them lightly with your hand, that they may be 
 moistened equally; throw in some very finely sifted 
 sugar, dry them well, and put them back in the stove for 
 two or three hours ; afterwards repeat the operation as 
 above, and put them back in the stove for a day ; on the 
 next day proceed as for almonds.—(See No. 241.) 
 
 No. 205. Barberry Comfits 
 
 Are made in the same way as the preceding. Currant 
 and Raspberry comfits are also made in the same manner. 
 
 No. 256. Caraway Comfits. 
 
 Clean and prepare your caraways as the celery seed (see 
 No. 253) ; they must be smoothed like the almonds (see 
 No. 241), and they may be pearled like the celery. 
 
 No. 207. Comfits in Gum-paste. 
 
 Confectioners who make large quantities of comfits, keep 
 together the scrapings of their comfit pan, and broken 
 bits, to be dried, pounded, and sifted through a silk sieve, 
 which, mixed with gum dragon, moistened, form a gum 
 paste. Different flavours are given, as coffee, chocolate, 
 bergamotte, vanilla, &c. A large piece of this paste is 
 to be rolled with a roller, and cut with tools of different 
 forms, as lozenges, hearts, clubs, &c.; cut a sufficient 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 103 
 
 quantity for a pan, which is about eight pounds, dry 
 them in the stove, put them into your comfit pan over 
 over the barrel, and work them as before, observing that 
 all the small comfits are made in the pan over the barrel, 
 and are only put in the balance pan to be finished 
 smooth, the three last charges. 
 
 No. 258. Nonpareils. 
 
 Nonpareils may be reckoned among the first species of 
 confectionary, and from their great utility, will last, pro- 
 bably, as long as the art itself. - Put into the pan over the 
 barrel half a pound of Florence orris-root, pulverized and 
 sifted, and warmed with a gentle fire. Take about halfa 
 table spoonful of syrup boiled to a pearl, moisten the 
 powder with it, and with your hands make them into 
 small grains; increase the charges by degrees, sift the 
 nonpareils to take off the small particles and dust of the 
 sugar ; repeat the sifting often, taking care to have sieves 
 of different sizes. At night place the nonpareils in the 
 stove to dry, increasing them in size day after day with 
 the finest sugar, and finish as above. Half a pound of 
 orris will make more than a hundred weight of nonpareils. 
 
 No. 259. To colour Nonpareils. 
 
 Prepare your colours (see No. 512), and take syrup 
 boiled to a thread ; mix your colours in separate pots, 
 and divide the nonpareils; the quantity of white non- 
 pareils being double that of any other colour, this being 
 necessary to set off the other colours to advantage. Put 
 one of the portions of your nonpareils into a pan, warm 
 them, and pour on your colour; stir them well till they 
 are all separated, and put them into the stove to dry. It 
 is very important to give the exact quantity of colour, that 
 
104 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the surface only of the nonpareils may be wet, and to 
 leave them in the stove only time enough to dry them, as 
 too much heat will make the colours fade. 
 
 Section XIV. OF FRUIT PRESERVED 
 WITHOUT SUGAR, 
 
 No. 260. Fruit Preserved without Sugar. 
 
 Tus method of preserving fruit was invented by Mr. 
 Appert, and has been used by the Author very exten- 
 ‘sively. Take very clean bottles, without any smell; the 
 fruit must be gathered in the morning it is to be used, 
 bottled instantly, corked quite tight, tied with wires, and 
 steamed the same day. To preserve fruit on a large 
 scale, you should be provided with square wooden cases, 
 lined with lead, air-tight when closed, and capable of con- 
 taining ten or twelve dozen of bottles, with an apparatus 
 to receive heat by steam. 
 
 No. 261. Bottled Apricots. 
 
 Gather the apricots in the morning of the day you mean 
 to preserve your fruit; cut them into two or four pieces, 
 according to their size, put them into bottles, and cork 
 them, and tie down the cork with a wire crossed over it, 
 and made fast round the neck of the bottle, as Champagne 
 wine is corked. Lay the bottles on their sides at the bottom 
 of the case, arranged as if packed for a long journey, ona 
 bed of hay; when the case has as many bottles as it will 
 hold, fill it three-quarters full with cold water ; the case 
 
eITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 105 
 
 must then be supplied with steam from the steam pipe, 
 and the case closed: in half an hour’s time the water will 
 be at 200 degrees of heat, the proper heat fixed by Mr. 
 Appert. Having ascertained this, instantly turn the 
 steam pipe, and leave the case in that state till next day 3 
 at six the next morning the heat has been found at 110 
 degrees; at eight o’clock the bottles were so hot they 
 could scarcely be touched. They should be now un- 
 packed, and when the bottles are cold, the corks should 
 be rosined, and they may be put in the cellar like wine 
 
 All sorts of fruit may be preserved in this way, and the 
 method has been found to answer very well, but the frutt 
 must be bottled the same day it is gathered, or many of 
 the bottles will break and the fruit be spoiled. 
 
 No. 262. Pulped Apricots. 
 
 Put your apricots in a fixed boiler, without water; open 
 the steam-pipe, and in ten minutes they will be blanched, 
 and fit to pass through a sieve; when the whole of the 
 pulp is extracted, fill some bottles with it, and proceed as 
 in No. 261. The pulp keeps extremely well, and apricot 
 paste may be made of it, and used as if made of new 
 fruit, fresh gathered. 
 
 No. 263. Currant Juice. 
 
 When you have mashed some currants on a sieve, and 
 strained them through a flannel bag, put them in bottles, 
 and proceed as above ; the juice will keep very tebe but 
 it forms a sediment, and looks thick, 
 
 FS 
 
106 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Currant Juice, another way. 
 
 After straining the juice through a sieve, put it in a cellar 
 to ferment ; two days after take off the crust formed by 
 the fermentation, strain it through a flannel bag, bottle it, 
 and proceed as before; it keeps very well, is quite clear, 
 and has the same taste as if it were just bottled. Itis 
 excellent for ices, syrups, and currant water. 
 
 No. 264. Juice of various Fruits. 
 
 The juice of cherries, raspberries, mulberries, black cur- 
 rants, &c. may be preserved very clear without leaving 
 any sediment; each being mashed separately, strained 
 through a sieve, bottled, and submitted to heat as above. 
 
 No. 265. Of Preserved Fruits in general. 
 
 Every species of fruit, whether with or without kernels, 
 gathered and bottled the same day, may be preserved 
 without loss: that is, scarcely any of the bottles are 
 broken except accidentally, and they keep well. The 
 average loss of bottles, when the fruit is not gathered the 
 same day, is ten or twelve per case. ‘The fruit, when so 
 mismanaged, shews a small white spot upon it, is apt to 
 become musty, and consequently must not be kept too 
 long. Those bottles in which you see a white spot form- 
 ing, should be looked out for immediate use. The 
 manner of corking is of the greatest consequence; the 
 
 bottles should be perfectly air-tight, or the frait will not 
 keep. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 107 
 
 No, 266. Composition, re covering the Corks of the 
 m Bottles, 
 
 May be easily purchased, or made in the following man- 
 ner: melt a quantity of rosin, a fourth part of this quan- 
 tity of bees’ wax, and a fourth of brick-dust, and mix 
 them well in a pot on the fire; dip the cork and the top 
 of the bottle in it, turning it round, that it may completely 
 cover the cork. 
 
 Section XV,.—OF CREAMS, 
 
 No, 267. Of Creams. 
 
 Cream, used in great quantities by the confectioner, is 
 formed on the surface of new milk, poured on a table, 
 hollowed out on purpose to receive the milk. Formerly 
 all creams were in the department of the confectioner, 
 now many kinds are generally prepared in the kitchen. 
 We will confine ourselves to our limits. 
 
 No. 268, Whipt Cream. 
 
 Take one quart of cream, put it into a bowl with some 
 powdered sugar and orange-flower powder, or water, and 
 have another bow! near you, over which you must place a 
 sieve to receive and drain the cream; whip the cream 
 with a whisk, and as it rises in a froth, take it off with a 
 skimmer, and put it into the sieve; continue to the end, 
 putting back into the first bowl till you have finished that 
 which drains from the sieve ; when done, put it into your 
 
108 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 dish, ornament it with zest of lemon, or cedraty, cut very 
 fine and tastefully; it is likewise served in glasses. It 
 may be iced, by putting it into a cellaret in some ice 
 pounded with salt: this is a tin vessel made on purpose 
 to preserve or keep creams, &c. iced. When your cream 
 is not quite fresh, put in a little gum dragon in powder, 
 but it is best to do without this. 
 
 No. 269. Chocolate Whipt Cream 
 
 Is made in the same manner, dissolving four ounces of 
 chocolate in a cup of boiling milk, for two pints of cream; 
 let it cool in ice; add four or five ounces of fine powdered 
 sugar, and proceed as above. 
 
 No, 270. Coffee Whipt Cream. 
 
 Roast two ounces of Mocha coffee, throw it quite hot 
 into a glass of boiling water, and cover it up; when cold, 
 strain the infusion through a sieve into a basin, and add 
 five or six ounces of pounded sugar; put it on the fire, 
 boil it to a blow, reduce it to a sand, by working it with 
 the spaddle; when cold, add it to your cream, or you 
 may make an infusion of coffee, and put it to the cream 
 when cold; whip and finish it as above. 
 
 No. 271. Vanilla W hipt Cream. 
 
 Cut a pot of good vanilla very fine, pound it with pow- 
 dered sugar, such as is intended for your cream; sift it 
 through a lawn sieve, and add it to your cream as directed 
 above, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 109 
 
 No. 272. Orange and Lemon Whipt Cream. 
 
 Rub or rasp on a piece of sugar the peel of two fine 
 Seville oranges; scrape off the sugar as it imbibes the 
 essence, mash it very fine, and add it to your cream. 
 Lemon cream is made in the same manner. 
 
 No, 273, Strawberry Whipt Cream. 
 
 Pick a small quantity of very ripe strawberries, mash them 
 in a sieve, and add the juice to your cream, with powdered 
 sugar, and a little liquid carmine, or cochineal, to give it 
 a fine rose colour.—(See Colours, No. 515.)—When you 
 send it to table, decorate it with a few strawberries, and 
 some leaves cut out of very thin cedraty, or a few green 
 leaves cut in paste of almonds; but they must be very 
 thin, and pushed in a mould of the real strawberry leaf. 
 
 No. 274. Rose Whipt Cream. 
 
 Proceed as in the former number, adding a small gost: 
 of essence of roses to your rose colour. : 
 
110 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 Section XVI.—OF ICES. 
 
 No. 275. Of Ices. 
 
 Ices are composed of the juice of fruits, creams, and 
 liqueurs, prepared and congealed by means of pounded. 
 ice, mixed with salt, or with salt, nitre, or soda. The 
 freezing-pot should be always of pewter, because it pre- 
 vents the contents of the vessel from congealing too 
 quickly, and there is time enough to mix them tho- 
 roughly ; for on this circumstance, in a great measure, 
 depends the excellence of the ice. ‘Tin vessels occasion 
 too rapid a congelation, and do not afford time to well 
 mix the materials. Some are of opinion, that when any — 
 article is iced it loses its sweetness, and that it ought 
 therefore to have an additional quantity of sugar; but 
 this is not correct: the diminution of the sweetness 
 arises from the materials not being properly mixed or 
 worked with the spaddle, when in the freezing-pot. In 
 ices that are badly mixed, the sugar sinks to the bottom, 
 and they have necessarily a sharp, unpleasant taste. 
 Another very general defect in ices, is their appearing 
 full of lumps; they are also often of a disagreeable, 
 dirty, red colour; and there are few houses in London 
 where ices are to be found entirely free from these 
 faults. 
 
 To make ices, you must have a tub, or pail, in which 
 you place your freezing-pot in the midst of pounded ice, 
 well-mixed with salt; the mixing of the salt with the 
 ice must be particularly attended to, as upon this cir- 
 cumstance depends the freeezing power, and conse- 
 quently, in a great measure, the goodness of the ice. The 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. lll 
 
 freezing pots being set in the middle of the ice, up to the 
 covers (see Plate II. Fig. 9), put into them the articles 
 ‘you intend to ice, which must be made agreeable to the 
 palate, without being too sweet, as it is very easy to add 
 a little syrup if necessary ; keep turning the pots quickly 
 round about in the ice, by means of the handles at top, 
 till the cream. is set, opening them every three minutes, 
 and with a copper spaddle take the contents from the 
 edges, mixing and stirring the whole well together; con- 
 tinue to do this till your ice is completed, and do not 
 spare your labour, for on this part of the operation, as is 
 said before, very much depends ; then cover your pot 
 with fresh ice, mixed with salt, and let it remain till 
 wanted to be served up. 
 
 No. 276. Custard for Ices. 
 
 Take a pint of good fresh cream, and mix it slowly in a 
 small copper pan with eight yolks of eggs, which must be 
 quite fresh ; cut a very thin slice of lemon peel, just the 
 surface of the rind of a lemon, and put it in the cream; 
 put your pan on a slow fire, and stir the cream con- 
 stantly with a whisk, taking care not to let it boil, for it 
 will turn to curds; this you will easily perceive, as it 
 then begins to form small lumps ; you will know when it 
 is done enough by the cream becoming of a thicker con- 
 sistence, and instead of turning round the pan, it at once 
 stops ; then immediately take it from the fire, add to it 
 six ounces of pounded sugar, more or less, according to 
 taste; strain it through a sieve over a basin, and give it 
 what flavour you choose. In case of necessity you may 
 use half milk and half cream, by adding the yolks of two 
 more eggs, but it is better with new cream and fewer 
 
 eges. + 
 
412 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. BITE OPA R NE Cream. 
 
 Add to a pint of cream, prepared as in No. 276, four 
 ounces of good chocolate dissolved in a little warm water, 
 and stirred on a slow fire; mix it well with the cream, 
 and strain it through a sieve; when cold, put into the 
 freezing-pot, and work it as directed above. | 
 
 No. 278. White Coffee Ice Cream. 
 
 To a pint of cream, prepared as in No. 276, without any 
 flavour, add four ounces of Mocha coffee roasted ; while 
 your coffee is roasting, put the prepared cream into a 
 vessel with a cover, and throw in your coffee berries hot; 
 cover it up, and put a napkin over it to prevent any 
 evaporation ; leave it for an hour, then strain it through 
 a sieve, and you will have a white cream with a delicious 
 flavour of coffee ; sweeten it as directed above, and when 
 cold pour it into the freezing pot to ice. You may like- 
 wise make it with a strong infusion of coffee, but then it 
 will take the colour of coffee. 
 
 No. 279. Tea Ice Cream. 
 
 Take a cup of the finest and strongest green tea, just 
 cover it with boiling water, wherein let it steep fora 
 quarter of an hour; then add it to a pint of cream pre- 
 pared as in No, 276, proceeding exactly in the same 
 manner. 
 
 No. 280. Vanilla Ice. Cream. 
 
 Take half an ounce of vanilla, cut it as fine as possible, 
 pound it in a little brass mortar, with the six ounces of 
 sugar intended to sweeten your cream; add it to your 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 113 
 
 cream, with yolks of eggs, as in No. 276, and strain it 
 through a sieve; when cold, put it into the freezing-pot 
 and work it. 
 
 ~ 
 
 No. 281. Cinnamon Ice Cream. 
 
 Prepare the real sticks of cinnamon in the same manner 
 as vanilla, and finish as above. - To choose cinnamon, 
 
 see No, 200. 
 
 No. 282. Pistachio Ice Cream. 
 
 Take four ounces of pistachios, blanch them in hot 
 water, peal and pound them perfectly smooth, adding a 
 little cream or milk, to prevent them from turning into 
 oil; while you pound them, put in a piece of preserved 
 ‘cedraty (see No. 278), prepare a pint of cream (see 
 No. 276), and add your pistachios to it; strain it several 
 times through a sieve, and put in half a pound of pow- 
 dered sugar, more or less, to your taste; when cold, pour 
 it into the freezing-pot, and work it. 
 
 No. 283. Chesnut Ice Cream. 
 
 Take off the husks of three or four dozen chestnuts, bake 
 them in an oven, pick them perfectly clean from every 
 bit of skin, pound them in a mortar by degrees, witha 
 pint of fresh cream; add to it eight yolks of eggs, six 
 ounces of pounded sugar, and a little orange-flower water, 
 or not, as you please: put it on the fire, and proceed as 
 
 _in No. 276. 
 
 No. 284, ‘Spanish-Nut Ice Cream. 
 
 Take half a pint of nuts (measure-when cracked), bake 
 them in the oven, then pound them with a little cream; 
 
114 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 add to them a pint of cream, eight yolks of eggs, and six 
 ounces of powdered sugar; put-it on the fire, and pre- 
 ceed as in No. 276. , 
 
 No. 285. Orgeat Ice Cream — 
 
 Is made in the same manner as the preceding. Choose — 
 new sweet almonds, and add a few bitter almonds; 
 sprinkle them with orange-flower water while they are 
 being pounded. 
 
 No. 286. Plain Ice Cream. 
 
 Whip a pint of fresh double cream, quite strong (see 
 No. 268) ; when whipped, add to it six ounces of pounded 
 sugar: put it into the freezing-pot, and work it well. 
 
 No. 287. Brown-Bread Ice Cream. 
 
 Make a quart of plain ice cream (see No, 291); when 
 froze, work into it some brown bread previously browned 
 at the mouth of the oven, and cut im very small square 
 slices. 
 
 No. 288. Maraschino Ice Cream. 
 
 Take a pint of good double fresh cream; whip it strong 
 (see No, 268); when whipped, add to it six ounces of 
 pounded sugar, and genuine maraschino, sufficient to 
 flavour it: put it into the freezing-pot, and work it well. 
 
 No. 289. Noyau Ice Cream. 
 
 Proceed as for the at only, instead of maraschino, 
 flavour it with noyau, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 115 
 
 5 Ki No. 290. Orange-Flower Ice Cream. 
 
 Proceed as in No. 276; flavour it with orange-flower 
 water, or a small drop of naroli; but the latter must be 
 used sparingly, being the essential oil of orange-flowers. 
 
 No, 291. Strawberry Ice Cream. 
 
 Mash and strain some strawberries over a basin; have a 
 _ sufficient quantity of juice to add to a pint of fine cream, 
 with the juice of a lemon without boiling; but the mix- 
 ture must be so managed as to be equal; neither the 
 taste of the strawberries nor of the cream must prepon- 
 derate. Sweeten it to your palate with pounded sugar, 
 pass it through a sieve, and put it into the freezing-pot to 
 ice, working it as usual. 
 
 No, 292. Raspberry Ice Cream 
 
 _Is made in the same way as strawberry cream. 
 
 No. 293. Currant Ice Cream 
 
 Is made like strawberry cream, adding a few raspberries 
 for flavour. | 
 
 No. 294. Pine-Apple Ice Cream. 
 
 To a pint of cream, add as much pine-apple pulp as will 
 flavour it, with six ounces of pounded sugar, and the 
 juice of a lemon; strainit; pour it into the freezing- — 
 ‘pot, working it as usual. 
 
 No. 295. Strawberry Water Ice. 
 
 Pick some fine strawberries very clean, strain them 
 through a lawn sieve over a basin, and add to the juice 
 
we 
 
 116 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 sufficient clarified sugar to sweeten it, and a little lemon- 
 juice, and ice it; if you find it does not freeze enough, 
 add a little water; if too much, it is necessary to add a 
 little syrup. Observe, that the chief recommendation 
 of all ice, is to be smooth and soft. 
 
 No. 296. Raspberry Water Ice 
 
 Is made like strawberry ice: add, if you please, a few 
 currants and cherries, well mashed and mixed with the 
 juice of the raspberries ; strain it through a sieve. 
 
 No. 297. Currant Water Ice. 
 
 Pick, mash, and strain your currants through a sieve, and 
 proceed as in No. 290. To lessen the acid taste, you 
 may add, if you like, a few very ripe cherries and rasp- 
 berries; cherries alone may be prepared and iced in the 
 same manner, 
 
 No. 298. Cherry Water Ice. 
 
 Take one pound of Kentish cherries, pound them, and 
 extract the juice ; then proceed as for strawherry water 
 ice (see No. 295): add a little noyau, to give it the 
 flavour of the cherry kernel, previous to freezing it. 
 
 No. 299. Apricot Water Ice. 
 
 Take very ripe apricots. mash and strain them through a 
 sieve into a basin; pound the kernels of the same apri- 
 cots very fine with a little water, that they may pass 
 through the sieve, adding the juice of a lemon, a little 
 water, and some syrup; strain it several times, and put 
 it into the freezing-pot; if, in working it, you do not find 
 it to your taste, add a little water, syrup, or lemon juice. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 117 
 
 efOits No. 300. Peach Water Ice, 
 
 The same process as for apricots. Should your fruit not 
 be ripe enough, blanch it in water. 
 
 No. 301. Apple Water Ice. 
 
 Choose fine apples, cut them into small pieces, and take 
 out the core; put them on the fire in some water to boil, 
 and reduce them to a paste; strain it through a sieve, 
 add the juice of a lemon, and sweeten it to your taste 
 with syrup, putting a little water to the pulp if too thick ; 
 pour it into the freezing-pot, and work it as above. 
 
 No. 302, Pear Water Ice, 
 
 Be particular in choosing your fruit, and proceed as for 
 apples, 
 
 No. 303. Barberry Water Ice. 
 
 Take a quantity of very ripe barberries in proportion to 
 the ice you intend to make, and put them in a pan of 
 water on the fire; boil them till they break, cover them 
 with syrup, boil and strain them through a cloth held by 
 two people; when cold, put them in a freezing-pot to ice. 
 
 No. 304, Lemon Water Ice, 
 
 Take any number of lemons you please; of every fourth 
 lemon rasp the peel close to the surface over a basin, into 
 which you are to squeeze the juice, adding a little water 
 and syrup to it; when mixed to your taste, strain it 
 through a lawn sieve, and put it into the freezing-pot. 
 
 a 
 
118 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 305. Maraschino Water Ice. 
 
 Make a pint of lemon ice (see No. 304), and flavour it 
 well with genuine maraschino; put it into the freezing- 
 pot, and work it well. 
 
 No. 306. Cedraty Water Ice. 
 
 Make a quart of lemon ice (see No. 304); when made, 
 add to it the zest of a fine cedraty previously rubbed on 
 sugar; strain it, and freeze it. 
 
 No. 307. Ginger Water Ice. 
 
 Take two or three ounces of preserved ginger, and pound 
 it with a little raw ginger; make a pint of lemon ice (see 
 No. 304), mix them together, and freeze it. 
 
 No. 308. Orange Water Ice. 
 
 Prepare the oranges like the lemons (see No. 304); to 
 procure the essence of oranges or lemons, rub the peel 
 on a large piece of sugar, and scrape off the outside of 
 the sugar with a knife. 
 
 No. 309. Champagne Water Ice. 
 
 Rasp six lemons on a piece of sugar, and squeeze the 
 juice in a basin; to this put the sugar which has imbibed 
 the essence of the lemon, and a bottle of Champagne; 
 sweeten it to your taste with syrup, and then proceed as 
 in No. 275; any kind of wine may be used in the same 
 way. 
 
 No. 310. Punch Water Ice. 
 
 Make a pint of lemon ice (see No. 304), then flavour it 
 with white rum, put it into the freezing-pot, and freeze it. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 119 
 
 No. 311. Bomba Tce. 
 
 _ Mix the yolks of sixteen fresh eggs in a pint of spring 
 water, with a glass of noyau, or maraschino; add syrup 
 
 to your liking, and put your pan on the fire, whip it with 
 _ a whisk, as if you were whipping the whites of eggs; when 
 it is nearly upon the boil take it from the fire, continue to 
 whip it till it becomes a light froth, then pour it into the 
 freezmg-pot, and let it remain for two or three hours 
 without stirring it; when you wish to serveit up, dip the 
 freezing-pot into warm water, and turn out the ice on 
 your dish. You may line the inside of the freezing-pot 
 with paper, which will save you the trouble of dipping 
 into warm water, as the ice will then come out easily, 
 and you may take the paper off afterwards. You can 
 mask this ice by cutting out with a spoon the middle of 
 the ice, and filling up the pot with cream ice of any other 
 kind or colour. 
 
 No. 312. Pine-Apple Water Ice. 
 
 Peel a pine-apple, pound it, and pass it through a fine 
 hair sieve; add the juice of three lemons, and syrup,‘ to 
 your taste, with a little water; strain the whole, and pour 
 it into the freezing-pot, working it as usual, 
 
 No. 313. Grape Water Ice. 
 
 Take a handful of dried elder-flowers, put them into a 
 freezing-pot, and cover them with boiling water; let them 
 _ stand for half an hour, strain them through a sieve, and 
 add two lemons; sweeten it to your liking with syrup ; 
 when frozen, add a glass of white wine, but mix it only a 
 little at a time, then put it in your moulds, 
 
120 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 314, Ices in Fruit Shapes. 
 
 These require much attention ; you must hovel! leadest 
 
 moulds to open with a hinge, as in plate I].sfig. 8: 
 Every ice we have described, may be moulded to repre-*~ 
 sent the fruits of which it bears the name; the proper — 
 
 flavour being given at the same time. When your ice is 
 
 prepared (suppose apricot), open your mould, and fill it _ 
 
 with apricot ice; insert, through the little hole-at the 
 end, a stem, or even a leaf or two, of the tree, or a good 
 imitation of it, and close it again directly, leaving the leaf 
 and branch outside; wrap the mould in paper, and place 
 it in a tub, in which you must put pounded ice with salt, 
 with which cover it; let the moulds remain an hour or 
 
 more in the ice. The stone of the fruit may, when well 
 
 cleaned, be put into apricots, peaches, &c. You must 
 also have a case in the ice: this case is a sort of box 
 made of tin, with shelves and compartments, and a square 
 opening at the top and front; line the inside with paper, 
 or vine leaves, if in season; take your moulds out of the 
 
 tub one by one, dip them into lukewarm water with the’ 
 
 paper, as that too, being frozen, would stick to the leaves 
 and branch, tear them off, and spoil the appearance of 
 your fruit; dip them immediately after mto cold water 
 
 to take off the salt which might adhere to them, open . 
 
 the mould, take out the fruit, and give it directly the 
 colour proper for it;—the colours are prepared cochineal, 
 indigo, carmine, aihionee burnt sugar, chocolate, fresh 
 cream, and saffron stone. All these colours must be 
 separately dissolved in cups or gallypots: for every colour 
 you must have two pots, the one light, the other dark ;— 
 in colouring your fruit, Nature must be your guide. To 
 make the colours, see Colour, No. 512, As you colour 
 them, put them into the case above described, and place 
 
 ‘ © nd 
 ee Se ee ee 
 
 * —s 
 ea ee if. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 121 
 
 the case in ice;. leave them there till wanted to be sent 
 _ up to table on plates or glasses. 
 ~ No. 315. Observations on Winter Ices. 
 
 > In winter we must supply the place of fresh fruit by mar- 
 _ malades, or preserved fruits, or have recourse to fruit as 
 prepared by M. Appert, without sugar, and as described 
 in No. 260, 261; and which plan we have tried on a 
 very-large scale with complete success; fruit thus pre- 
 _ ‘served is extremely valuable for ices. 
 
 No. 316. Jce-7eil, 
 
 It being the Author’s wish that his work should be useful 
 to every class of readers, whether private or professional, 
 he considers it essential to add to this edition some prac- 
 tical observations upon the construction and management 
 of ice-wells, having been frequently consulted by noble- 
 men on this subject. 
 
 __ To obtain a good ice-well, you should choose a spot 
 
 ~ looking towards the north, the soil either sand, gravel, or 
 chalk, wherein you can easily build a well which will 
 drain itself, the water soaking into the soil, by a waste 
 well made under the other. An ice-well should be larger 
 round than it is deep, for it is a common error to imagine 
 that the deeper a well is the better; on the contrary, we 
 know that the water naturally runs towards the depth, 
 and drawing towards the wells, penetrates through the _ 
 brick-work, and produces a humidity that melts the ice. 
 
 To avoid this, a good well should be built with double 
 walls, at the distance of eighteen inches or two feet 
 apart, and the interval between filled up with ashes, or | 
 any other matter of an absorbent quality. 
 The well must be built with a domed top (like a soup 
 G 
 
322 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 tureen), and a hole in the centre left to receive the ice, 
 Over the dome of brick-work there should be a covering 
 of earth, at least six feet in thickness, upon which a plan- 
 _ tation may be formed, to keep off the sun’s rays: the 
 hole in the centre of the dome should have a neck (like a 
 large chimney-pot), secured with a strong cover of iron, 
 running up through the superincumbent earth three or 
 four feet, and should be kept always well covered with 
 soil, and turfed over, as soon as the well is alae to pre- 
 vent any access of air in that direction. 
 
 At the side of the well, upon a line with the bottom of 
 the dome, an entrance must be made to take out the ice: 
 it should consist of a porch with double doors, the outer 
 of which must. be covered with straw, or thatched, and 
 every crevice in both doors stopped up and made as air- 
 tight as possible. 
 
 A. dry time ought to be chosen for filling the well; the 
 ice should be broken as small as possible, in order that it 
 may reunite in the interior, and three or four men should 
 be employed in levelling and pounding it, till the well is 
 filled to the very top: if a long frost ensues, it should be 
 filled up from time to time, as the ice first introduced 
 will diminish considerably in bulk as it forms itself into 
 a compact mass, by freezing in the well. 
 
 When the ice is taken out, every precaution should be 
 adopted to prevent the rush of a volume of air into the 
 well, upon the opening of the doors. 
 
 At first the ice must be taken out as it comes to hand, 
 until the mass sinks to a level with the door; but after- 
 wards, by means of a ladder, it must be taken from the 
 sides of the well, all round quite down to the bottom, 
 leaving the centre to the last, which will be found solid 
 and compact even in the midst of summer; if, on the 
 contrary, the ice is first taken away from the middle, you 
 disturb the body, and the air which introduces itself will 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 123 
 
 destroy more than you consume. The first object, it 
 must be always recollected, in preserving the ice ina 
 well, is to keep it dry; and if unfortunately the well is 
 placed in a soil that will not permit it to drain itself, a 
 pump must be fixed on the outside to draw off the water 
 accumulated in the waste well. 
 
 Secrion X VII.—OF FRUITS IN BRANDY. 
 No. 317. Fruit in Brandy. 
 
 Mosr fruits may be preserved in brandy, but cherries, 
 
 peaches, apricots, green gages, mirabelle plums, and 
 
 pears, are generally used for this purpose. The quality 
 
 of the brandy contributes much to the good or bad taste 
 
 of the fruit. Old French brandy is to be preferred to 
 that made in England, but it is not easy always to dis- 
 
 cover its age ; it may be generally known by its sparkling, 
 
 and the beads which it forms round the glass when poured 
 out, the smell it leaves on the palm of the hands on rub- 
 
 bing some in them, ‘or the taste on the palate. But the 
 
 confectioners, who have to preserve much fruit in brandy, 
 
 may save expense by the following method:—Take a 
 
 barrel capable of holding the quantity of brandy you 
 
 expect to use in the year, and calculate the quantity of 
 water necessary to reduce the English spirit to thirty de-- 
 grees, then dissolve a sufficient quantity of brown sugar- 
 candy, boil it to a pearl (one quarter of sugar to two- 
 thirds of brandy); mix the whole in the barrel; leave it. 
 in the cellar for a year till the fruit season arrives, then. 
 tap it, and you will have a liquor more fit for your fruit: 
 _ than what is generally bought for this purpose, and quite 
 as good as the brandy of France, 
 
 G2 
 
124 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 318. Peaches in Brandy. 
 
 Choose the peaches you mean to preserve a little before 
 they are ripe, take off the down by wiping them with a 
 cloth; prick them with a small fork to the stone, and 
 put them as you do them into water, then on a moderate 
 fire, keeping the water nearly boiling; when you find 
 your fruit softened so as to give way to the finger, throw 
 them into cold water, and leave them to stand fora 
 quarter of an hour; change this water for another, and 
 let them stand another quarter of an hour; drain them 
 on clean towels, and when dry, arrange them regularly in 
 a glass jar; have some clarified sugar boiled to the little 
 pearl; a quarter of syrup for two-thirds of fruit is a suf- 
 ficient quantity; put to them double the quantity of 
 brandy, at thirty degrees; mix, and strain it through a 
 flannel bag two or three times, and place the peaches re- 
 gularly in your jars, and cover them with bladders well 
 tied down. 
 
 No. 319. Apricots in Brandy. 
 
 Apricots are prepared in the same way as peaches, ex- 
 cept that you must boil them in the syrup, in which they 
 must be left for a day; on the next take them out, drain, 
 and put them in order in your glasses; put your syrup on 
 the fire, boil it to the pearl, and finish like the peaches, 
 Mirabelle plums, and other fruits, are done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 No. 320. Green Gages in Brandy. 
 
 Take green gages before they are quite ripe; cut off half 
 the stem, prick them and put them in a pan full of water, 
 so that the water be three or four inches above the fruit ; 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 125 
 
 place your pan on a moderate fire, and when the water 
 is so hot that you cannot bear your finger in it, take the 
 pan off, and throw in a handful of salt and a handful of 
 spinach ; cover it with a cloth, and let it cool. The next 
 day put the fruit on a gentle fire for two or three hours, 
 taking care that the water does not boil; if you have a 
 thermometer, you may regulate the heat to two hundred 
 degrees, which it should never exceed. When the fruit 
 is of a perfect green, and it rises on the water, put it into 
 cold water, and finish as the apricots. 
 
 No, 321. Cherries in Brandy. 
 
 Take some fine morello cherries, cut off half the stems, 
 and put them into cold water; when well washed, drain 
 them on a sieve, and place them in your glasses; fill them 
 with brandy at twenty-three degrees, and add to each 
 bottle a little cinnamon broken or slightly pounded : ren- 
 der the bottles completely air-tight, and leave them for 
 a month or two. After that time separate the cherries 
 from the brandy, measure it, and add to every pint four 
 ounces of pounded sugar; stir and melt it, and strain it 
 two or three times through a flannel bag ; when perfectly 
 clear, put it on your cherries to be used at pleasure. 
 
226 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Section ‘XVIII.—OF CLEAR JELLIES, AND 
 PIECES MONTEES. 
 
 No. 322. Clear Jellies, and Pieces Montées. 
 
 In treating of these, we are aware that we trespass a little 
 on the culinary department ; but as it is our object to 
 make our readers acquainted with every thing directly or 
 indirectly connected with confectionery, we shall proceed 
 to describe the Piece Montée, and the various kinds of 
 jellies. 
 
 A. Piece Montée is not the same article as an Assiette 
 Montée ; but is an ornament to be eaten, and is to appear 
 but once on the table: it is composed of biscuits, con- 
 serves, rock-sugar, nogat, &c. fixed on a building of 
 paste, ornamented with spun-sugar, &c. according to the 
 fancy of the artist; taste, design, foresight, neatness, and 
 activity, are all necessary to the perfection of the Piece 
 Montée : taste, to vary the colours and the materials, and 
 to give elegance to the ornament; foresight, to prepare 
 beforehand every little requisite; design, to give the proper 
 proportion and elegance to the whole ; neatness, in putting 
 the parts together, which must not be clumsily mixed 
 with one another, nor must the caramel be seen with 
 which you join them ; and activity, as not to be obliged 
 to warm your caramel five or six times, which would 
 blacken it, and make your work look dirty, besides being 
 disagreeable to the taste, as the caramel loses its strength, 
 and takes the damp more quickly than sugar just boiled 
 enough, 
 
ATALIAN CONFECTIONER. 127 
 
 No. 323. Clear Jelly. 
 
 Take two calves’ feet, cut them in pieces, and put them 
 in a saucepan with three quarts of waters boil this to 
 three pints, take it off, and strain it through a sieve into 
 a basin ; take off the fat, and let it stand till next day— 
 this is called stock ; then put it into a saucepan with a pint 
 and a half of white wine, the juice of three lemons, the - 
 peel of one, three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and 
 the whites of eight eggs beat up to a strong snow ; add a 
 little cinnamon, and the shells of the eggs, stirring them 
 altogether with a spoon; put this on the fire; when it 
 rises up, take it off, then put it on again, then take it off, 
 and run it through a flannel bag; if you want it for moulds, 
 you must put one ounce of isinglass in the saucepan be- 
 fore you put it on the fire. : 
 
 No. 324. To clarify Isinglass. 
 
 Break your isinglass into small pieces with a hammer, 
 wash it in several waters, and to four ounces add six pints 
 of water ; reduce it one-third, skimming it carefully ; take 
 it from the fire, and strain it through a silk sieve, to use 
 for the following receipts. 
 
 No. 325. Venus’s Clear Jelly. 
 
 Take an ounce of clarified isinglass, add halfa pound of 
 syrup from fine clarified sugar, coloured with a little 
 cochineal, prepared for ice (see No. 516), of a fine rose 
 colour; add a small drop of essence of roses, and half a 
 glass of good brandy ; mix it lightly with a spoon, strain 
 it through a silk sieve, take a copper mould of any form 
 you please, according to the dish you mean to make ; 
 place the mould in a box full of pounded ice, quite to 
 
128 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the edge of the mould, and surrounded on all sides ; pour 
 your jelly into it, cover it with a tin cover, or any other 
 equally thin, and put some ice on it; three hours is suf- 
 ficient to ice this sort of jelly; when you wish to serve 
 it up, take a basin of warm water, plunge your mould 
 quickly into it, and instantly turn it out on the plate, 
 
 No. 326. Orange-Flower Jelly, 
 
 Take two ounces of newly gathered orange-flowers, or if 
 you cannot procure these, take prawlined orange-flowers, 
 boil them in half a pint of syrup, let it cool, and infuse it 
 closely covered up; when nearly cold, add an ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, and the juice of three oranges, or 
 jemons ; strain it through a silk sieve, and finish as Ve- 
 nus’s clear jelly. You may also add a glass of Cham- 
 pagne, and colour it pink, 
 
 No. 3827. Strawberry Jelly. 
 
 Mash a pound of strawberries, strain the juice through a 
 fine sieve, and add half a pint of syrup, and boil them ; 
 when nearly cold, add an ounce of clarified isinglass, the 
 juice of two lemons, and a little prepared cochineal ; 
 strain the whole through a silk sieve, pour it into your 
 mould, and ice it. 
 
 No. 328. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Take a pound of currants, and mash them with four 
 ounces of raspberries ; strain them through a flannel bag, 
 and that your jelly may be quite clear, add an ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, and a little prepared cochineal ; ice it 
 as above. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 129 
 
 soe No, 329, Cherry Jelly. 
 
 Express the juice of two pounds of very ripe cherries, 
 and four ounces of red currants; strain it through a 
 flannel bag, and add half a pint of syrup, and an ounce 
 of prepared isinglass; strain it through a silk sieve, and 
 ice it as above. 
 
 No. 330. Orange Jelly. 
 
 Squeeze the juice from ten oranges and two lemons, and 
 drain it through a sieve ; rub two orange peels on a large 
 piece of sugar, scrape the essence with a knife into your 
 boiling syrup, mix it, and strain it through a flannel bag; 
 when nearly cold add to it an ounce of isinglass, and 
 pour it into the mould, after it is coloured with cochineal. 
 Oranges may likewise be iced in quarters, which have a 
 pretty effect. The jelly is to be made as above, but 
 instead of pouring it into moulds, it is to be put into the 
 peels, prepared as follows: Open ten or twelve oranges 
 with a tin cutting-tool at the stalk end, about the size of 
 a shilling, clear out the inside, without breaking the peel, 
 with a small tea-spoon, and use the juice for your jelly. 
 When the inside is quite cleaned, throw the peels into 
 water to make them firm ; when your jelly is ready, drain 
 your peels, fill them with it, and ice them. When about 
 to serve them up, cut them in four with a sharp knife, 
 and set them on the plate. 
 
 No. 331. Grape Jelly. 
 
 Take the juice of two pounds of grapes, strain it through 
 a flannel bag, add the juice of two lemons, half a pint 
 of syrup, and an ounce of prepared isinglass: finish as 
 for Venus’s clear jelly, 
 
 G5 
 
130 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 332. Pine-apple Jelly. 
 
 Take a pine apple, pound it, and strain the pulp through 
 a cloth ; add to the fruit half a pound of syrup, and boil 
 it up once; when nearly cold, add the juice of two lemons 
 strained through a silk sieve, and mix an ounce of pre- 
 pared isinglass, and a little sugar in dark caramel, to give 
 it a finer colour ; and finish as above. 
 
 No. 333. Apricot Jelly 
 
 Is made in the same manner as the pine-apple jelly, 
 except the lemon juice, which is never used. 
 
 No. 334. Barberry Jelly. 
 
 Take two ounces of very ripe barberries, pick them, and 
 boil them in half a pint of syrup, so as to cover them ; 
 let them stand some time, then strain them through a 
 cloth ; finish like the pine-apple jelly. 
 
 No. 335. Vanilla Jelly. 
 
 Add to half a pint of syrup two pods of vanilla cut ex- 
 tremely fine, boil it up once, then let it stand to infuse; 
 put a third part of a pint of very clear water to your 
 syrup, and strain it through a flannel bag; when nearly 
 cold, put in an ounce of prepared isinglass, and a glass of 
 maraschino, or any other liqueur: finish as usual. 
 
 No. 336, Lemon Jelly 
 
 Is made with the juice of two or three lemons, without 
 any peel; strain it well through the flannel bag, as the 
 jelly must be white: finish as above. 
 
 alae By Kase ie ni 2S 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 13L 
 
 No. 337. Coffee Jelly 
 
 As above; choose very good coffee, roast and grind it, 
 - and make an infusion of four ounces, strain it through a 
 flannel bag to have it very clear; take the same quantity 
 of sugar and isinglass. 
 
 No. 338. Tea Jelly. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of an ounce of tea, and when you put it 
 to your syrup, add a glass of brandy, or any other spirits, 
 a light shade of prepared cochineal, and your isinglass; 
 take care to strain every infusion through a flannel bag. 
 
 No. 339. Arrack, or Rum Jelly. 
 
 Rub on a large lump of sugar the peel of two lemons, and 
 scrape off the zest into half a pint of syrup; express the 
 juice of five lemons, strain and add it, with a glass of rum, 
 to your syrup, which must be lukewarm; put in the 
 ounce of prepared isinglass, and ice it as usual. 
 
 No, 340. Liqueur Jelly. 
 
 Jellies may be made with all sorts of liqueurs or wines, 
 and are prepared in the same way as Venus’s clear jelly. 
 
 No. 341. Whisked Jellies 
 
 Are nothing more than the preceding jellies whisked, 
 when cold, with a rod of birch twigs; they must be put in 
 their moulds as soon as they are set, like a soft cream ; 
 they must not have time to fix before they are whisked, as 
 they would not take the smooth form of the moulds; the 
 jelly thus whisked is not so long taking the ice as the 
 others. 
 
132. ITALIAN: CONFECTIONER%:. 
 
 No. 342. Macedoine Jelly. 
 
 All the jellies from No. 322 to 341, are called Macedoine 
 
 Jellies, when in the middle of the jellies are introduced 
 all sorts of fruit in season, and in the winter such as are 
 
 preserved in brandy. If you use preserved fruit, the 
 
 jellies must be liqueur or wine jellies. The different fruits 
 must be arranged with taste, and their colours well 
 
 blended and contrasted; large fruit must be cut in slices, 
 
 These jellies are best made by using two moulds of dif- 
 ferent sizes; the smaller mould is put inside the larger 
 one, and surrounded by jelly ; when it is fixed, the inner 
 mould is taken out by using a little warm water, and the 
 hollow it leaves is to be filled up with layers of fruit and 
 layers of jelly, which must be put in gradually, and each 
 allowed to set before the next is added ; when the whole 
 is set, it is to be turned out on the dish and served up, 
 
 No. 343. Blane Manger, or Orgeat Jelly. 
 
 This should more properly be called Orgeat Jelly, as it 
 is only milk of almonds sweetened and fixed with isin- 
 glass. Take a pound of almonds, and pound them as 
 for orgeat syrup, (see No. 110): they should produce a 
 pint and a half of milk, to which add an ounce of cla- 
 rified isinglass, and half a pint of syrup, as for clear 
 jellies. You may flavour the blanc manger as you do 
 jellies. It is likewise made of different colours. To do 
 this, you must separate your milk into as many parts as 
 you mean to use colours; stain one part of a rose colour, 
 another blue, another yellow, &c. and finish the jelly; 
 then pour it into your moulds in layers of about an inch 
 in depth, arranging and varying the colours according to 
 your taste, only taking care to let each layer seé before 
 the next is poured in. With proper moulds, you may 
 
 1 ptt 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 133. 
 
 make asparagus, or any other form you like, giving it 
 the native colour. You may use chocolate in this way, 
 dissolving four ounces of it in a glass of water; or pista- 
 chios, preparing them in the same way as the almonds. 
 
 No. 344. Piece M ontées, Baskets, Vases, Pavilions, and 
 other Articles, as Ornaments in Spun Sugar. 
 
 Boil and prepare your sugar as before described, and 
 when nearly cold, have a stick, pointed similar to a 
 pencil; dip it in your sugar, and raise your hand, and 
 you will perceive it will fall as thick as twine; then, 
 having your moulds ready buttered, form a Mosaic, 
 taking the shape of the object, which you must loosen 
 before it is quite cold: replace it again on the mould, 
 for it to retain its proper shape; but take notice, these 
 objects are spun outside of the mould, by spinning Mo- 
 saics flat upon a greased sheet in different shapes, and 
 uniting them together, soldered with the same sugar. 
 Temples and pavilions of four to five feet in height can 
 be made; and when the sugar is properly boiled, and in 
 dry weather, this work will keep several days: the author 
 has kept some pieces quite perfect for a month, by ex- 
 cluding them carefully from the air. 
 
134 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 Srctton XIX,—OF CONFECTIONERY, 
 PASTE, &c. 
 
 No, 345. Pate d’ Office, or Confectionery Paste. 
 
 Srrr, on a marble slab, a pound and a half of fine flour, 
 with a pound of sugar, making a hollow in the middle, to 
 contain the whites of eight eggs; mix it up into a stiff 
 paste ; but if too stiff, add some more whites of eggs 5 
 when of a proper consistence, knead it with your wrists 
 till perfectly smooth. This paste is to form the carcass 
 or frame-work of your Pieces Montées, which are to be 
 cut out of it, of the size and shape of the dish you mean 
 to use; it must be rolled a quarter of an inch thick; 
 it will likewise be useful to roll it in bands or fillets, as 
 supporters to the whole. You bake them on plates 
 slightly buttered, in an oven of a moderate heat ; when 
 half done, draw them out, and cut them to your fancy ; 
 you are to construct with them castles, pavilions, Chinese 
 temples, hermits’ cells, pyramids, cottages, Turkish pa- 
 vilions, monuments, and any other thing the fancy may 
 suggest. When they are cut out and exactly fitted 
 together, put them back in the oven to finish baking. We 
 will now give the preparation of the materials. 
 
 No. 346. Confectionery Paste in Colours. 
 
 Take one pound of flour and eight whites of eggs, and 
 form a paste as directed above; the sugar must be per- 
 fectly white, and sifted fine, and half an ounce of gum 
 dragon must be added, dissolved in a small glass of water. 
 This paste must be very smooth and compact, and must 
 
. ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 135 
 
 be rolled out flat about the eighth of an inch in thickness ; 
 out of this, you must cut the design you propose, with a 
 pen-knife, the same as you would cut pasteboard; dry 
 the pieces in the stove, mount and join them together 
 with some of the same paste; to this add some gum 
 water, to moisten it, which you are to use as cement; 
 colour some of the same paste according to your as 
 (see Colours), and use it for moulding and borders, to be 
 pushed in wooden moulds (see Moulding, No. 505), and 
 joined together by this cementing paste: you may sand 
 the ground-work with coloured sugar, and ornament the 
 whole with spun sugar, according to your taste, 
 
 No. 347. Coloured Sugars. 
 
 Coloured sugar was originally used to embellish the pla- 
 teaux on which fruit, &c. was brought to table, placed 
 in the sugar; afterwards crystal. bowls, dishes, and 
 vases, were introduced for holding fruit, and then sugar 
 being no longer necessary, coloured sand was used to 
 ornament the plateaux, with which artists of merit made 
 the most beautiful designs, and even formed elegant 
 landscapes; but fromthe modern alterations made in the 
 arrangement of the table, and the want of ingenious men 
 who can execute this department of our art with success, 
 _ few opportunities have been afforded for the display of 
 these pleasing ornaments. ‘There are two ways of 
 obtaining coloured sugar: one for conserves (see No. 
 53), by working the coloured sugar till pulverized; the 
 other by pounding and sifting crystallized sugar to the 
 ' required size; the finer particles being taken away by a 
 silk sieve, as at No. ‘71; the sugar must be divided into 
 as many parts as you want colours; wet it with the 
 colours moistened in water (see No. 512), rubbing it in 
 the hand till the colour is spread equally: put it on 
 paper to dry in the stove. 
 
136 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No, 348. Of colouring Almonds. 
 
 After blanching and picking your almonds, as directed at 
 No. 241, they must be cut small to the required size, 
 and coloured like sugar; they are used to ornament dif- 
 ferent kinds of biscuits. Pistachios cut in pieces make 
 a good green for Pieces Montées, &c.; they may be 
 made darker by spinach green.—(See No, 520.) 
 
 No. 349. Almond Paste. 
 
 Blanch a pound or two of sweet almonds, and let them 
 remain a day or two in clean water; the next day drain 
 them dry, pound them extremely fine, pass them through 
 a fine sieve, and put back the residue to be pounded 
 again, Continue this till they are all passed through the 
 sieve, taking care to sprinkle them with lemon juice while 
 you are pounding, to prevent them from oiling. Put 
 your almonds in a pan, with half a pound of sugar to 
 every pound of almonds, on a gentle fire; stir it with a 
 wooden spaddle, that it may not stick to the pan; when 
 dry enough it does not stick to the fingers ; take it off 
 and when cold put it back into the mortar and pound it 
 again, adding half an ounce of gum dragon dissolved in 
 a glass of cold water; pass itas for gum-paste; half an 
 ounce of gum is sufficient for two pounds of dried paste. 
 In pounding it you add fine powdered sugar till it is suffi- 
 ciently stiff for your purpose; it may be coloured accord- 
 ing to fancy.—(See colours.)—You may use this paste 
 for all sorts of Pieces Montées, giving it sufficient soli- 
 dity to form supports; the articles made of this paste 
 must be dried in the stove; it is likewise used to make 
 the green moss to ornament groups of rocks; for this 
 purpose it must be coloured with spinach green ; force 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 137 
 
 it through a wire sieve with your hands, or a spaddle, 
 and with a card take off the moss, in little heaps, which 
 are formed by the pressure. 
 
 No. 350. Rock Piece Montée ina Lake. 
 
 I describe the mode of making this rock, merely to give 
 a general idea of what may be done in this department 
 of our art, as it would be tedious, as well as unnecessary, 
 to give details of every article. There is hardly an ob- 
 ject in nature which may not be represented in, or form 
 an ornament to, a Piece Montée; and with so wide a 
 field for the exercise of taste and fancy, we may safely 
 leave the ingenious artist to his own judgment: our object 
 is not to make a large book, but to compress and give 
 as much information as possible in the smallest compass, 
 otherwise a moderate volume might be written on this 
 head alone. 
 
 Roll out some confectionery paste (see No. 345), a 
 quarter of an inch thick, the size of the dish intended to 
 receive it; put into a mould representing your pond 
 a lining of almond paste, coloured pale pink, and place 
 in the centre a sort of pedestal of almond paste, sup- 
 ported by lumps of the same paste baked; when the 
 whole is dry, fix the pieces to one another, taking care 
 that it is all perfectly dry and well joined, then put it into 
 the stove. Boil to the great blow a sufficient quantity of 
 syrup to fill the hollow of the lake, to represent the water ; 
 having previously modelled in gum paste little swans, 
 place them in various parts of the syrup ; put it into the 
 stove for three hour§, then make a small hole through 
 the paste, under your lake, to drain off the syrup; acrust 
 will remain with the swans fixed in it, representing the 
 water. You must now build the rock on the pedestal 
 with pieces of rock-sugar, biscuits, and other appropriate 
 
138 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 articles in sugar, fixed to one another, supported by the 
 confectionery paste you have put in the middle, the 
 whole being cemented together with caramel, and ornas 
 mented according to your fancy. The rest of the piece 
 must now be neatly finished; the moulding and heads 
 should be pushed in almond paste, coloured red; the 
 cascades and other ornaments must be spun in sugar.— 
 
 (See No. 52.) 
 
 Now 83h Royal Iceing. 
 
 If you wish to mask the Piece Montée with iceing to imi- 
 tate marble, take some double-refined sugar pounded 
 and sifted extremely fine ; wet it with the juice of lemon, 
 and clean water, and mix it with a spaddle; when of a 
 tolerable consistence, lay it on parts of your Piece Mon- 
 tée with a hair pencil; when dry, it will make the finest 
 possible glaze, and you may paint on it whatever you 
 please. 
 
 No. 352. Of Grass and small Trees, or Bushes. 
 
 There are different means of imitating trees and bushes ; 
 a sprig of thyme must be the body of the tree, to which 
 must be fixed leaves of pistachios, or coloured almonds, 
 cut to the size you want them, or leaves of gum paste (see 
 No. 487) made in a wooden mould, others with almond 
 paste forced through a sieve, but the prettiest are those 
 of candy, coloured green; for these last prepare some 
 handsome twigs of thyme, take a candy box, five or six 
 inches deep, according to the size of your trees, tie 
 strings of packthread across it, to which you suspend your 
 twigs, taking care they do not touch each other. Boil to 
 the blow sufficient syrup to fill the mould to the trunk of 
 the tree; place it in the stove for six or eight hours: 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER? 139 
 
 strain offthe syrup as for candies, and you will have some 
 pretty little trees; if you put them in candy a second . 
 time, they will come out ornamented with crystals ex- 
 tremely A gyi to the eye. 
 
 No. 353. Marble Biscuits. 
 
 Take the quantity you want of the paste for Savoy biscuit 
 (see No. 372), divide it into four parts, dissolve an ounce 
 of chocolate, and add it to two of the portions in unequal 
 quantities, that one may be dark and the other light; for 
 the other two parts take vegetable carmine (see No. 
 916); mix it with a little saffron to make it of an orange 
 colour, and give one a pale, the other a deep colour, 
 Make a paper case, and put in the pastes with a spoon 
 to intermix the colours, so that when baked it may 
 cut out like variegated marble; in another case it may 
 be laid in veins; put them in a slack oven, that they may 
 be two or three hours baking; take them out, let them 
 cool, and cut them in pieces, to imitate the stone, or parts 
 of the rock which you want. 
 
 No. 354. Green Biscuits 
 
 Are made in the same manner as the preceding, except 
 that to the paste, when divided, you add to one part 
 spinach green (see No. 520); to another saffron ; to the 
 third red, and the fourth: blue: you thus have the natu- 
 ral colours of the rock. 
 
140 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 _ Section XX.—OF LOZENGES AND WAFERS. - 
 No. 355. Rose Lozenges. | 
 
 Sreep in rose-water the requisite quantity of gum dragon 
 using only one ounce to eight pounds of sugar, as it is 
 not to be so stiff as gum paste.—(See No. 487.)—Pro- 
 ceed in the same manner using very fine powdered sugar ; 
 
 colour it with vegetable carmine, or cochineal; if the ~ 
 
 rose-water does not give ita sufficient flavour, add a 
 drop of essence of roses; when the paste is ready, roll it 
 out about the thickness of half a crown on a marble slab 
 very clean and even; in rolling it out use a little pow- 
 dered sugar, or a small quantity of starch powder, to pre- 
 yent its sticking. Cut it into different shapes with a tin 
 cutter; put the articles on a sieve to dry in the stove, 
 and then into boxes for use. 
 
 No. 356. Cinnamon Lozenges. 
 
 Pound and sift extremely fine two ounces of good cinna- 
 mon, and make your paste as above; dissolve the gum 
 in water, and work in the cinnamon with the powdered 
 sugar ; it may be made without pounded cinnamon, by 
 adding the’oil of cinnamon, and may be coloured with 
 bol ammoniac: finish as above. 
 
 No. 357. Orange-Flower Lozenges. 
 
 Dissolve your gum in double-distilled orange-flower 
 water, or add a drop of the essence of naroli to your 
 paste: make it a fine white, and finish as before. 
 
 Bit Se r he en 
 
 > eae ee ee 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 141 
 
 No. 308. Tablets of Marsh-Mallow. 
 
 Jake four ounces of marsh-mallow root, cut it into small 
 pieces, and boil them in a pint of water; strain them 
 through a cloth, and put two ounces of gum dragon to 
 steep in it, with a little orange-flower water ; fill it with 
 sugar, and follow the same method as before. 
 
 No. 359. Lozenges in general. 
 
 Whatever flavour you may wish to give your Lozenges, 
 the mode of making is the same in nearly all; but the 
 taste is varied according to the essence you use; the 
 colours should be appropriate, as, if flavoured with essence 
 _ of lemon, they should be yellow; of oranges, rather 
 darker ; of violet, the colour of the flower ; if of ginger, 
 a little bol ammoniac may be used, &c.. The essences 
 inust be used sparingly, as too strong a flavour is dis- 
 agreeable. 
 
 No. 360. afers. 
 
 Vanilla, two pods ; Sugar, 1b. ; Brandy, one glass; 
 Flour, 1lb.; the yolks of eiyht Eggs, and 4 oz. of 
 Fresh Butter. eee 
 
 To make wafers you must have an engraved iron, as in 
 plate I. fig. 5. Take the vanilla, cut it very small, and 
 pound it with some powdered sugar; sift it through 
 a silk sieve, and put it into a pan with your flour, yolks 
 of eggs, and brandy, and stir it all together; add your 
 . butter, first dissolved, in a cup of warm milk; when the 
 whole is mixed, it must be quite thin, so as when you dip 
 a spoon in the mixture and hold it up, it must leave a vel- 
 yety appearance on it. Put the iron on a clear charcoal 
 fire, and when it is regularly heated, rub it slightly, with 
 
142 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 a bit of butter tied in a rag, or a piece of rind of pork 
 or bacon; ‘pour in a spoonful of your batter, taking care 
 ihat it spreads equally over the engraved part of the iron; 
 close the instrument gently, and put it on the fire; when 
 the batter is done on one side, turn and bake it equally,’ 
 of a fine colour, which a little practice will soon enable 
 you to do; take it from the fire, pare it carefully round, 
 take out the wafer, and turn it immediately on a piece of 
 round wood, or in the shape of a horn; you may use any 
 essence you please instead of the vanilla. 
 
 No. 361. Neapolitan Wafers. 
 
 Flour, 4 oz.; Sugar, 3 0z.; Fresh Butter, 1oz.; Olive 
 
 Oil, 1 oz.; three Eggs; Essence of Cinnamon and 
 Cloves. 
 
 Neapolitan wafers are made the same way as the pre- 
 ceding. Mix the sugar and flour, put in your eggs 
 (yolks and whites), and melt the butter in water, with an 
 ounce of olive oil; add a drop of essence of cloves, and 
 of cinnamon; finish as above. You may colour them 
 pink, with the proper prepared colour, and yellow with 
 saffron: these wafers may be made of all colours, but 
 their own colour is the best. 
 
 No. 362. Flemish Wafers. 
 
 Flour, 8o0z.; Sugar, 40z.; Butter, 8oz.; the yolks of siz 
 Eiggs; Yeast, Loz.; Milk, half a pint; and the whites 
 of six Liggs. 
 
 To make these wafers you must have square irons, en- 
 graved half an inch in depth, with the two halves to 
 correspond, Put your flour into a pan, and stir in the 
 warm milk with the yeast, which must be strained 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 143 
 
 through a sieve; make your paste soft and smooth, and 
 put it ito the stove that it may rise; when risen, add 
 your yolk of eggs (saving the whites), and the zest of a 
 lemon, which you rub on sugar, and scrape into the 
 butter; mix it well, whip up to a snow the whites of eggs 
 you have reserved, and add them to it, stirring it gently 
 with a spoon; to this may be added a spoonful of cream, 
 as it will be a great improvement, but it must be beaten 
 up like the eggs. Put the paste back in the stove, and it 
 will rise to double its quantity; warm your irons, rub them 
 lightly with butter, fill one side of the irons, and put it 
 on the fire; as soon as it is done on that side, turn it, 
 and when of a good colour, take out the wafers, put them 
 on a plate, and sift the powdered sugar over them. Add 
 any flavour you please to the sugar, to suit that you have 
 put in the paste, drying and sifting it as vanilla. 
 
 Section XXI.—OF COOL DRINKS FOR BALLS, 
 ROUTS, &c. 
 
 No. 363. Currant, Cherry, Strawberry, and Rasp- 
 berry Waters, 
 
 Are in general made by mashing either of the above 
 fruits, straining the juice through a sieve, and afterwards 
 through a flannel bag; water is then added, with syrup, 
 to the taste; strain it again through the bag, ice it, and 
 serve it up very fresh. But the liquor is never so trans- 
 parent or clear as when the fruit is boiled in the water. 
 
144 ~  -TTALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 364. Orgeat Water. 
 
 Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, with a dozen 
 bitter ones; pound them well, and add to them two pints 
 of water, or more, to the taste, with sugar and orange- 
 flower water ; mix them well together, and strain and ice 
 the liquor in a bottle ; it may be made with orgeat syrup. 
 
 No. 365. Lemonade. 
 
 Take the outside of the rinds of six lemons, cut as fine 
 as possible, and put them into two quarts of water; then 
 cut your lemons in halves, squeeze the juice into the 
 water, and add syrup to your taste; mix the ingredients 
 well, and let them stand for some time; strain the liquor 
 through a flannel bag, and ice it. 
 
 No, 366. Orangeade 
 
 Is made in the same way, using China oranges instead of 
 lemons. The above are the most pleasant, as well as the 
 most wholesome drinks for parties at balls and routs, 
 &c. Many other receipts for drinks have been given in 
 _ former publications of this nature, and it would be very 
 easy to enlarge the list, but none are considered so 
 elegant, nor can be so safely recommended as the above. 
 
 Ce ee De jth 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 145 
 
 Section XXII.—THE OVEN. 
 
 No. 367. Of Ovens. 
 
 THERE are two sorts of ovens, the one brick-work, and 
 the other of cast iron: the brick oven is the best, as the 
 iron one requires a constant fire kept under it, to retain 
 it of a proper heat; the brick oven must be heated 
 equally, cleaned, and mopped out; and before you put 
 your articles to bake, you must wait till the heat is fallen, 
 that is, till the oven is equally heated all over; keep it 
 closed till you are going to use it. 
 
 No. 868. Rich Plum Cake. 
 
 11d. Fresh Butter, 1 1b. Sugar, 141b. Flour, 2 lbs. Cur- 
 rants, a glass of Brandy, 1 1b. Sweetmeats, 2 oz. sweet 
 Almonds, ten Eggs, } oz. Allspice, and 4 oz. Cinnamon. 
 
 Melt your butter to a cream, and put in the sugar, and 
 stir it till quite light, adding the allspice and the pounded 
 cinnamon; when you have stirred it for a quarter of an 
 hour, take the yolks of the eggs and work them in two or 
 three at a time, and the whites of the same must by this 
 time be beaten to a strong snow quite ready to work in; 
 as the paste must not stand to chill the butter, or it will 
 be heavy; work in the whites gradually; then add the 
 orange peel, lemon, and citron, cut in fine stripes, and the 
 currants, which must be mixed in well with your sweet 
 
 almonds; then add the sifted flour and glass of brandy: 
 - bake this cake in a tin hoop in a hot oven for three hours 
 Put twelve sheets of paper under it, and four or five on 
 the top, to keep it from burning. 
 
146 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 369. Patience Biscuits. 
 Siz whites of Eggs, 8 oz. Sugar, 10 oz. Flour, Lemon 
 
 Peel. 
 
 Take smooth plates of copper, warm them at the mouth 
 of the oven, or on a stove, and wipe them well, rubbing 
 them lightly all over with paper and virgin wax, then let 
 them cool for use. Break your whites of eggs in a cop- 
 per pan, whip them up a little, add the powdered sugar 
 and flour, and mix the whole with a spaddle (see plate I. 
 fig. 12), with some raspings of lemon peel, or of oranges, 
 limes, cedratys, &c. Take a funnel, as in plate I. fig. 16, 
 fill it with paste, and holding itin your right hand, let the 
 paste fallin drops as large as a shilling, by the side of one 
 another, as many as your waxed plate will contain. Put 
 all the plates in a warm place for five or six hours, till the 
 surface of the biscuits harden and dry, forming a little 
 crust, Bake them of a good colour in a hot oven. 
 
 | No. 370. Queen Cakes or Drops. 
 13 lb. of Flour, 1lb. of Butter, 1 lb. Sugar, 14 Egqs, 
 
 31b. Currants, and the Raspings of two Lemons. 
 
 Melt your butter to a cream, in a basin, adding the pow- 
 dered sugar with the lemon raspings, and stirring it for a 
 quarter of an hour with six or seven pieces of cane tied 
 together in the form of a whisk, till it becomes quite light 
 and ¥ vhite. Have your eggs-ready broken in a pot or 
 basin, and put in three or four at a time, allowing an in- 
 terval of five minutes, and stirring your paste well every 
 time you put in the eggs; when the eggs are all mixed, 
 stir in your currants, being first well washed and picked 5 
 then add the flour sifted, and keep stirring it for five mi- 
 nutes, ‘These cakes, about the size of half a crown, are 
 baked in a hot oven, with six sheets of paper under them. 
 
 ey! Ae Th ee a, ey ee 
 
 7 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 147 
 
 No. 371. Champagne Biscuits. 
 
 1lb. Fresh Butter, 15 1b. Sugar, 16 Eggs, 2 lbs, Flour, 
 and about 2 oz. Caraway Seeds. 
 
 Break your eggs in a basin with the powdered sugar, Af 
 stir the mixture quickly till it comes to a thick paste ; as 
 it will take a long time, if not stirred very quickly when 
 you begin : have your butter melted to a cream, and when 
 the paste is quite thick, stir it in; next stir in the flour 
 and the caraway seeds. Put the biscuits in crinkled 
 papers, afterwards on tins of the same shape as the papers, 
 and then bake in a hot oven. 
 
 No. 372. Savoy Biscuits. 
 
 15 Eggs, 1lb. Sugar, 8 oz. Flour, and Raspings of 
 Lemon Peel. 
 
 Break your eggs, and put the yolks in one basin, and the 
 whites in another ; add a pound of sugar to the yolks, and 
 a little grated lemon peel; work it with two spaddles, 
 one in each hand, rolling them like drum-sticks one over 
 the other; by this motion the mixture will froth up; con- 
 tinue to do so for at least a quarter of an hour, during this 
 time your assistant must whip the whites with a birch 
 whisk ; when they are come to a snow and firm, put a 
 fourth part to the yolks, and mix them well with your 
 spaddle ; then pour in the whole of the whites, and mix 
 them gently while another person must sift the flour. 
 them. Make your paste smooth, which is done b 
 mixing the flour; lay the biscuits on sheets of pape 
 
 a spoon, or with the funnel with three or four holes.— © 
 ~ (See plate I. fig. 17. )—iti is usual to make the biscuits : 
 
 three and a half inches in length; when the papers are 
 filled, ice them with fine powdered sugar, sifted through a 
 lawn sieve on the table before you; throw the sugar over 
 
 H 2 
 
148 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the first row with your hands, and taking the sheet of 
 paper by the upper corner, you scatter the sugar over the 
 others, laying the surplus sugar again before you to ice 
 the next sheet with, or, if you prefer it, the sugar may be 
 sifted over the cakes through a silk sieve. After a few 
 minutes, put them on plates, and bake them of a fine clear 
 colour; when cold, detach them with the blade of a knife ; 
 - they are generally placed back to back. 
 
 No. 373. Sponge Biscuits. 
 10 Eggs, 1 lb. Sugar, 6 oz. Flour, and Raspings of 
 
 Ftwo Lemons. 
 
 Keep the whites and the yolks of your eggs separate, 
 mixing the sugar and lemon raspings with the yolks ; work 
 them as above, adding flour of potatoes or common flour. 
 Fill the moulds, which must be first buttered, and then 
 -sift some sugar over the biscuits, like the cased ones, 
 (see No. 374); bake them in a moderate heat, and when 
 they are of a fine colour, take them carefully from the 
 moulds, and set the glazed side downward in a sieve, that 
 it may not fall, 
 
 No. 374. Biscuits in Cases. 
 
 15 E'ggs, 1 lb. Sugar, 8 oz. Flour, Lemon Raspings, and 
 the same Paste as the Sponge Biscuits. 
 
 The only difference is, that when the paste is put into 
 cases or papers, it must be iced with coarse sugar, sifted 
 over them directly afterwards. Shake them on one side 
 to take off the overplus sugar, and put them in the oven 
 arranged in order on plates. When the sugar is melted, 
 give your cases their intended shape: they are generally 
 made of a square form, and sometimes round like little 
 
 baskets,—(See plate 1. fig. 18.) Cut your paper some- 
 
 ny SP he te ee 
 
. 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. * * 149 
 
 what larger than is necessary to fill the moulds, and make 
 a circular mark with the knife on the paper. Then fold 
 the paper with the blade ofa knife, held in your right 
 hand, and the paper between the thumb and finger of the 
 
 left hand, and thus form plaits like the frill of a shirt, round, 
 
 the paper to the circular mark. Put it on the mould and 
 
 make it go into the box, which must just contain it; lean 
 
 hard on it, and cut off the waste paper with a pair of scis- 
 sors; take out the paper, and the case will be of a fine 
 shape. ‘They may be made of all sizes. 
 
 No. 375, Italian Cakes. 
 Light Eggs, 1 lb. Sugar, 1 1b. Flour, and Raspings of 
 
 three Lemons, 
 
 Break your eggs in a pan with a circular bottom, add the 
 powdered sugar and the lemon raspings, and whisk this 
 till you observe it becomes thick, white, and very light ; 
 it will take half an hour beating at least, but the surest 
 way of knowing when it is light enough, is by observing 
 the bladders that rise on the surface, with which it will be 
 covered in the space of a minute; when you see this, sift 
 your flour, and mix it in as light as possible with a spoon. 
 This is a round cake, baked on paper, about three inches 
 in diameter ; for the purpose of dressing it out, you must 
 have a round wooden ring, the eighth of an inch thick, 
 and of the proper circumference. Spread as many as 
 you can on a sheet of paper, and bake them in a hot oven ; 
 when cold take them off, place two of them together, back 
 to back, and put them in a warm place for two days; 
 these cakes will keep good for a yearif put in a dry place. 
 
 # 
 a 
 
 CH 
 
150 | ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 rs | | 
 
 y { No. 376. Almond Hearts. 
 
 Lb. sweet Almonds, 14.1b. Sugar, the Raspings of four 
 Lemons, 24 Eggs, and 1 lb. Flour. 
 
 Take your almonds fresh blanched, and pound them very. 
 fine with whole eggs; when you cannot feel any lumps 
 in them, add your powdered sugar, and mix it well in the 
 mortar with the lemon raspings, then take out your paste 
 and put it in a large circular pan or basin, taking care to 
 have a vessel large enough, as the mixture will fill a 
 twelve quart pan. Put the yolks of twenty-four eggs to 
 your paste, and whisk it for a quarter of an hour; then 
 break in six whole eggs, and whisk it another quarter of 
 an hour, and afterwards six more eggs, and repeat the 
 same again, making altogether eighteen whole eggs; if 
 your paste be not thick enough, it will require a little 
 more whisking till it becomes a thick paste, for the good- 
 ness of the paste depends more on the proper whisking of 
 it than on the whites of eggs; then take the twenty-four 
 whites of eggs, and whisk them toa strong snow; sift 
 your flour, stir it well in your paste, and then put in your 
 whites, and stir them in as light as you can; butter your 
 heart-tins, and put six sheets of paper under them; bake 
 the hearts in a gentle heat, as they will then keep their 
 shape ; if you bake them in too hot an oven, they fall in 
 the sides and their shape is spoiled. 
 
 No. 377. Orange Hearts. 
 
 1 lb. of Sugar, 11 lb. yolks of Eggs, four caps of preserved 
 Orange Peel, 4 lb. sweet Almonds, the Raspings of four 
 Lemons, the whites of eight Eggs, and $/b. Flour. 
 
 Take your yolks of eggs, powdered sugar, preserved orange 
 peel, pounded, the almonds pounded very fine, with rose- 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 151 
 
 water and the lemon raspings, and mix all together, stir- 
 ring it with a wooden spoon in a circular-bottomed pan, 
 till it comes to a light paste ; when the paste is very light, 
 whisk up your whites of eggs to a strong snow, and put 
 the paste to them, turning it over gently till the whites are 
 well mixed in; sift your flower, and stir it in as lightly as 
 possible. Bake these biscuits in a slack oven, in tins, 
 the shape of a heart, with five sheets of paper under 
 them; observe to butter your tins well, and ice the bis- 
 cuits before they are baked. 
 
 No. 378. Biscuits of different Tastes. 
 
 To make these biscuits, use the same paste as for sponge 
 biscuits, but whatever flavour you desire, add it to your 
 eggs, when mixed with the sugar, as an example for va- 
 nilla, take a pod or two of vanilla, cut it very fine with a 
 knife, and mix it with powdered sugar, pounding it very 
 fine in a mortar ; then sift and add it to your paste; the 
 flavour of orange, lemon, or cedratys, may be given by 
 rubbing the fruit on the top of loaf-sugar, or grating it on 
 a nutmeg-erater, or you may pound them in a mortar with 
 some sugar, to obtain a more complete essence. 
 
 No. 379. Lemon Cakes. 
 
 1lb, Sugar, 1b. Flour, 14 Eqgs, two table spoonsful of 
 Rose-Water, the Raspings and the Juice of four 
 Lemons. 
 
 Take your egzs, which must be very fresh, and be parti- 
 cular in separating the whites from the yolks, for if you 
 leave any of the yolks with the whites they will not beat 
 up strong; and you will not be able to make this biscuit 
 good without a very good white. To the yolks add the 
 powdered sugar, the lemon raspings, the juice, and the 
 
152 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 rose-water ; beat this well together in a pan with a round. 
 bottom till it becomes quite light; this will require half 
 an hour’s beating. _ Put your whites in a round-bottomed 
 pan, and whisk them till they will bear an egg, which is 
 quite strong enough ; put your paste into the whites, and 
 mix it very light with a spoon; when well mixed, take 
 your flower and sift and mix it in as lightly as possible. 
 These biscuits are in general baked in small oval tins, 
 with six or seven sheets of paper under them, in a mode- 
 rate heat ; butter the tins well, or you will find it difficult 
 to take out the biscuits; this is a very good biscuit if well 
 made. Take care to ice, before you bake them, but very 
 lightly, as the less they are iced the better, so that ey 
 be done equally all over. 
 
 No. 380. Brown-Bread Biscuits. 
 
 Lb, Sugar, 20 Eggs, the Raspings of four Lemons, 11d: 
 Flour, and 6 oz. Brown Bread. 
 
 Take your eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, put. 
 the pounded sugar and lemon raspings with the yolks into 
 a basin, and stir them with a wooden spoon till light and 
 very white; then whisk up the whites of the eggs to a 
 strong snow, put the paste to them, and mix it very lightly, 
 and sift and mix your flower with the brown bread, pre- 
 viously crummed. Bake these biscuits in small tins, such 
 as hearts, ovals, and squares, with six sheets of paper 
 under them, in a moderate heat. 
 
 No. 3881. Spanish Bread. 
 
 21 yolks of Eggs, 14 whites, 12 oz. Sugar, 6 oz. Flour, 
 6 oz. Starch, and Raspings of Orange or Lemon- 
 Peel. 
 
 Take twenty-one yolks of eggs (reserving fourteen whites 
 to beat to a snow), and put your sugar and a small quan- 
 
* * 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 153 
 
 tity of rasped lemon or orange-peel to the yolks, beating 
 them up well as for other biscuits; when the whites are. 
 beat up mix them together, while you sift over them your 
 flour and starch, to be well mixed. Put it into tins, or 
 paper cases, two inches deep ; place them in a gentle heat, 
 take out the tin, and when the bread is firm to the touch. 
 take it from the moulds directly, and cut it into square 
 pieces of the shape and thickness of dice; ice them with 
 chocolate, white iceing, or any colour you choose ; flavour 
 them according to your taste. 
 
 bd 
 
 No. 382. Geneva Biscuits. 
 
 1 lb. powdered Sugar, 1lb. Flour, 4 oz. bitter and 4 oz. 
 sweet Almonds, 12 Eggs, and \lb. Butter. 
 
 Put your sugar, flour, and almonds, into a bowl, and 
 grind or pound them with whites of eggs, then break in 
 six whole eggs, and work it up with a spaddle. In ano- 
 ther bowl put six whites of eggs, adding the yolks to 
 your paste; melt your butter, pour it lukewarm into 
 your mixture, and continue to work it till it is very 
 smooth; beat up your whites, and when done, mix the 
 whole together. Fill small round moulds, and cover 
 them with white almond prawlings chopped small. (See 
 Prawlings, No. 91.)—This paste is likewise put into 
 _long moulds, an inch thick; when cold, it is cut into. 
 lozenges, or iced, at pleasure, like the chocolate bis- 
 cuits ; but if you wish to ice them, they must not be 
 covered with prawlings. 
 
 No. 383. Chesterfield Biscuits. 
 
 20 Eggs, 1 lb. Sugar, 1 1b. Flour, and 202, Caraway- 
 Seeds, 
 
 Put the yolks of your eggs, the sugar, and the caraways 
 
# 
 154 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 into a bowl, and beat them up; into another vessel put 
 the twenty whites, beat them up toa strong froth, and~ 
 mix the whole together; while the flour is sifted over 
 them, stir it in lightly, and put the paste in a paper: 
 case. When baked, cut the paste into thin long slices, 
 and put them into the oven to dry. 3 
 
 No. 384. Nut Biscuits 
 
 “Are made the same as almond biscuits, except that you 
 must brown the nuts in the oven or on a fire; pound 
 them fine, and add two whites of eggs. 
 
 No. 385, Savoy Cake. 
 
 Use the same paste as for case biscuits (see No. 374) ; 
 put them into a moderately-heated oven, and when baked, 
 take them from the moulds, and put them back into the 
 oven, without the mould, to dry them. Choose the 
 moulds low, as they always succeed the best, the centre 
 being always perfectly baked. Savoy cakes may likewise 
 be made with almonds, nuts, pistachios, currants, &c., 
 and of every flavour. 
 
 No. 386. Almond Cakes. 
 
 6 oz. sweet Almonds, 11b. Sugar, seven Eggs, 6 oz. Flour, 
 and the raspings of four Lemons. 
 
 Pound your almonds very fine with whole eggs, then add 
 the powdered sugar and lemon raspings, and mix them 
 well together in the mortar. Take it out, put it ina 
 basin, and stir it with the yolks of eggs till it is as white 
 as a sponge paste; beat up the whites of the eggs toa 
 strong snow, mix them very lightly with your paste, then 
 take your flour and mix it as lightly as you can ; the 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 155 
 
 lighter you work this paste the better, nor will you make 
 a good cake without great attention in stirring and mixing 
 your paste lightly. Butter the mould, and bake it ina 
 slack oven, which is the best for all sorts of almond bis- 
 cuits ; this cake will take an hour baking, with ten sheets 
 of paper under it, and one on the top. 
 
 No. 387. General Observations on Biscuits. 
 
 The pastes of which all biscuits are made are nearly the 
 same; it is useless, therefore, to describe the almost 
 numberless shapes and names that are given to this 
 article ; suffice it to observe, that the goodness as well as 
 the elegance of the biscuit must depend upon the skill, 
 taste, and ingenuity of the artist, and that such a person 
 will never be at a loss to invent new forms and combina- 
 tions—as rounds or ovals fixed together by marmalades 
 or jellies ; put up in white or coloured iceing, powdered or 
 ornamented with sugar of different colours, pistachios, 
 almonds cut, currants, chocolate, &c, &c. 
 
 No. 388. Fine Spongati Italian Cake. 
 
 One pound six ounces of white bread, dried in the oven 
 and reduced to a coarse powder; one pound four ounces 
 of walnuts, blanched and chopped very fine with a double 
 handled knife ; six ounces of currants well washed and 
 cleaned; five ounces of wild pine kernels; five pounds 
 five ounces of virgin honey, clarified ; three grains of 
 cinnamon in powder; one grain of cloves; one grain of 
 strong pepper; and one grain of nutmeg in powder. 
 
 The above articles must be mixed together, and en- 
 closed in acrust paste, made of the following materials, 
 viz., two pounds eight ounces of the best wheaten flour ; 
 six ounces of fresh butter; five ounces of loaf sugar, 
 
: ~ = 
 156 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 pounded ; one ounce of olive oil of Aix in Provence, and’ 
 half an ounce of salt, with a sufficient quantity of white: 
 wine to mix the whole. This paste being of a moderate 
 consistence, is to be formed into round cases or crusts, 
 into which the first mixture is to be introduced, and a 
 cover of the same paste must be put on, which must be 
 pricked all over with the point of the knife. Let them 
 stand for a whole day, put them in an oven, moderately 
 heated, on plates dusted over with flour; these cakes 
 should be an inch thick : they may be iced or not, as you 
 please. . 
 
 No. 389. Another sort of Spongati, or Italian 
 Christmas Cakes. 
 
 Five yolks of fresh eggs ; one pound seven ounces of sugar. 
 in powder; seven ounces of bread, dried and powdered 3 
 one pound two ounces of almonds, blanched and roasted 
 like cocoa; four ounces of wild pine-apple kernels ; 
 
 three drachms of fine cinnamon; three drachms of . 
 
 cloves; three and a half drachms of nutmeg ; two ounces 
 of preserved cedratys; and one drachm of ground 
 pepper. 
 
 This mixture must likewise be put into a crust or cover- 
 ing made of the following paste, viz., steep two ounces 
 of gum-dragon in twice its volume of orange-flower 
 water, and put on your marble slab fourteen pounds of 
 pulverized sugar, and six pounds of fine starch; add 
 your gum, and strain it through a cloth like the paste for 
 drops; form a malleable paste by adding a little white 
 wine; make your crust, put in the above ingredients, 
 and cover them with a large wafer paper; make them 
 an inch thick. You may have wooden moulds repre- 
 senting different subjects, into which you may put your 
 paste, and fill the moulds as above, covering them with 
 
 ee ee ere ee 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER: AAT 
 
 awafer paper. They must he kept in a stove in a gentle 
 heat a day before they are baked, ina slack oven. | 
 
 No. 390. Rice Cake with Butter. 
 
 Lib. Butter, Lib. Sugar, 12 Eggs, 41b. Flour, and 1 Ib. 
 ; . Rice Flour. 
 
 Take the butter, melt it to a cream, and add your sugar 
 pounded ; stir it till it is light, then break in twelve eggs, 
 three at a time, and keep stirring your paste all the time; 
 when the eggs are worked, add the pounded rice and 
 flour: bake this in a hoop in ‘the same way as a plum cake, 
 
 No. 391. Rice Cake without Butter. 
 
 12 Eggs, 12 oz. Sugar, the Raspings of two Lemons, 
 1 lb. Flour, and Goz. of Rice Flour. 
 
 Separate the whites from the yolks of your eggs, whisk 
 up the whites to a strong snow, then mix in the yolks, 
 powdered sugar, and lemon raspings ; whisk this over a 
 slow fire, till you observe it come quite thick and light, 
 which will require half an hour’s whisking. Take it off 
 the fire and whisk it till quite cold, then stir in the flour 
 and rice; bake these cakes in paper cases in a moderate 
 heat; put four or five sheets of paper under them, and 
 ice before you bake them. 
 
 No. 392. Fine Rusks. 
 11b. Sugar, 14 Eggs, 120z. Flour, and about oe 
 Caraway Seeds. 
 
 Take fresh eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and’ 
 beat up the whites to a strong snow; in making this bis- 
 cuit you must be very particular in having a good white; 
 
. 
 158 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 when your whites will bear an egg shell, whisk in the yolks _ 
 and powdered sugar, with as many caraway-seeds as you ~ 
 please; take out your whisk, and mix in the flour with a 
 spoon. Bake them in buttered moulds three inches wide 
 and two deep, and twelve inches long, in a warm oven ; 
 when cold, cut them in slices, and brown them in a hot 
 oven, first on one side, then on the other. 
 
 No. 393. Almond Biscuits. 
 
 13 Eggs, 11b. Sugar, 30z. sweet and 1 oz. bitter Almonds, 
 60z. Flour, and the Raspings of two Lemons. 
 
 Separate the whites of your eggs from the yolks, and 
 work them as usual with the sugar and almonds, which 
 must be pounded with the white of an egg, to prevent 
 their turning to oil. Beat the whites, and add them to 
 the yolks, which must be likewise well whipt; sift and 
 mix the flour, and put your paste in the moulds, or in 
 paper cases, powdered with sugar as usual. Some con- 
 fectioners put chopped almonds all over the biscuits, but 
 this does not look well, and takes away the beauty of the 
 iceing. 
 
 No. 394. Pistachio Biscuits. 
 
 These biscuits are made in the same manner as the pre- 
 ceding, using pounded pistachios instead of almonds ; 
 you may add a little spinach, to colour them as pistachios. 
 —(See Colours.)—You should always have some almonds 
 _ and pistachios, blanched, ready for use. 
 
 No. 395. Aniseed Biscuit, Wolves Teeth. 
 
 The same as pistachios, except adding two ounces of 
 aniseed instead of pistachios; you must lay them in but- 
 tered paper folded like an open fan, and placed in tin 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 159 
 
 moulds to bake them in; when laid out, they are to be 
 strewed with comfits dipped in aniseed. Take them 
 from the moulds, when baked, and put them in the oven 
 to = 
 
 No. 396. Chesnut Biscuits 
 
 Are made like almond biscuits, except that the chesnuts 
 must be baked, well picked, and pounded with the white 
 of an egg in the same proportion as the almonds. 
 
 No. 397. German Biscuits. 
 
 Take cloves, cinnamon, corianders, nutmeg, of each a 
 quarter of an ounce, and pound and sift them (or the 
 essence of those spices will answer the same purpose) ; 
 two ounces of preserved lemon peel, and one pound of 
 sweet almonds cut into fine prawlings; mix these ingre- 
 dients with twenty-four eggs, and five pounds of sugar, 
 and as much flour as will make it of a malleable paste. 
 Roll it out into squares, lozenges, ovals, or any other 
 shape; when baked, put on them an iceing of chocolate, 
 
 &c. to your taste. 
 
 No. 398. Cream Biscuits. 
 
 The same paste, adding only a few spoonsful of whipt 
 cream, according to the quantity you mean to make; put 
 it into paper cases, and ice them like the others. 
 
 No. 399. Another Cream Biscuit. 
 
 10 yolks and five whites of Eggs, 402. Sugar, half a pint 
 thick Cream. 
 
 These biscuits must be made to the minute you want 
 them Put the yolks of your eggs in a bowl with the 
 
 Ps 
 
160 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER;: 
 
 sugar, and add any flavour you choose, (vanilla is the 
 most agreeable), and well work the ingredients, while you 
 make the whites into a strong snow; when ready, add 
 your yolks and whipt cream; mix the whole, and put it in 
 paper cases; ice.and bake ened in a moderate heat; five | 
 minutes baking is sufficient; serve them up quickly, as 
 
 they will scon sink. | 
 
 No. 400. Coffee Biseurts 
 
 Are made as chocolate biscuits, only add coffee, sifted 
 through a very fine sieve, to your taste; you may also 
 put a decoction of coffee to your iceing. 
 
 No. 401. Chocolate Biscuits. 
 
 Put into large paper, or tin cases, some biscuit paste, 
 flavoured with vanilla, and bake it without iceing, (that is, 
 without powdering it with sugar); when it is done and 
 cold, cut it into little squares, long lozenges, or any shape 
 you like; make an iceing with the white of an egg, and 
 some fine sifted sugar, which confectioners call royal 
 iceing, and a quantity of scraped chocolate melted in the 
 oven, more or less, to your taste. This mixture must be 
 sufficiently liquid, well worked, and shining; cover your 
 biscuits with it, spreading it on with a knife; dry them at. 
 the mouth of the oven; you may ice them to any colour 
 you choose, adding the essence to correspond.—(See 
 Colours.)—You may likewise make the iceing as conserve - 
 of tablets. —(See No, 202.) 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 16L 
 
 No, 402. Biscotini Pistachios. 
 
 1b, Sugar, 1lb, Flour, Soz. Pistachios, and the yolks ot 
 | 20 Eggs. 
 
 Put your sugar and yolks of eggs in a bowl, mix them 
 well with a spaddle, then add your pistachios and flour, 
 and put the paste into two large cases, an inch deep; 
 bake them in a moderate heat, and when cold, cut them 
 in pact like aniseed cakes. 
 
 No. 403. Biscotint Almonds 
 
 Are made in the same manner as pistachios. 
 
 No. 404. Mustaciolt Biscuits. 
 
 11b. 1loz. Almonds, 8 oz. Flour, 2 lbs. 8 oz. Sugar, 14 
 drachm Pepper, 3 drachms Cinnamon, 3 drachms 
 
 Cloves, and half a Nutmeg. 
 
 Pound the almonds very fine, moistening them with an 
 ege; when extremely fine and smooth, put them on your 
 marble slab, and add the flour and sugar pound and sift 
 through a silk sieve your pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and 
 nutmeg, and work the whole with as many eggs as is 
 necessary to make any paste malleable and strong; roll 
 it to any shape you please, and bake it in a slack oven; 
 the biscuits, when baked, may be iced either white or 
 chocolate colour, or you may touch them with a pencil 
 with syrup, boiled to a blow: they are excellent, with the 
 addition of candied dry fruits, lemon, orange, cedratys, &c. 
 
162 “-TALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 No. 405. Firenze Biscuits. 
 
 1 1b. 10 oz. Sugar, 1 lb. 14 oz. Almonds, 11d. Walnuts, 
 141d. preserved Fruit, 1 oz. Pepper, and 13 oz. Spice 
 of all kinds, 
 
 Clarify your sugar in a pan, boil it to the little thread, 
 add the pepper, the above quantity of spices, as cinna- 
 mon, cloves, and nutmegs,.in powder: then add preserved 
 fruit, that has been candied, as cedratys, lemon, orange, 
 &c., and boil the whole during ten minutes; then add 
 the quantity of whole almonds, half of which must be 
 roasted like coffee, and the nuts without taking off the 
 skin; mix the whole well together, and leave it for a 
 minute on the fire; after which pour out the contents on 
 a marble slab, to be worked with flour. Make the paste 
 into small loaves, which bake in a moderate heat, cover 
 ing them with royal iceing. 
 
 No, 406. Gimblettes. 
 Three Eggs, 6 oz. Sugar, Flour, and Lemon Peel. 
 
 Break your eggs whole, and add the fine sugar, and 
 some rasped lemon peel; work it up for a few minutes 
 with a spaddle, then add some flour, till your paste is 
 malleable, neither too stiff nor too soft; roll it out, and 
 form rings, as large as a crown piece; have a basin of 
 boiling water, put your rings into it, and take them out 
 as they rise on the water; they are then white enough ; 
 set them on a napkin or sieve to drain and dry; then put 
 them on your plates, or paper, to bake, and let the heat 
 be moderate ; when baked, moisten them with the white 
 of an egg, put them back to dry in the oven, and that will 
 make them shine. 
 
 ee ee ee 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 163 
 
 No. 407, - Apple Biscuits. 
 
 1 1b. of pulp Apples, 14.1b. powdered Sugar, £1b, Flour, 
 4b. Starch Powder, four whites, and oné whole Egg, 
 and Essence of Cloves, 
 
 Take as many apples as will produce a pound of pulp; 
 bake them in a hot oven till quite soft, then pass them 
 through a fine hair sieve ; put them in a copper pan, and 
 add the sugar and a whole egg with a little essence of 
 cloves; whisk it over a gentle fire till quite hot, then 
 take it off and whisk it cold; afterwards take four whites 
 of eggs and whisk them to a strong snow; put your 
 _ paste in, and mix them well together; sift the starch 
 
 powder and flour, and mix these in together as light as 
 you can; dress them round with a spoon on paper, and 
 bake them in a moderate heat ; iceing the biscuits before 
 you bake them. | 
 
 No. 408. Bitter Macaroons. 
 
 3 lbs. Sugar, 1 lb. bitter Almonds, and the whites of 
 eight Eggs. 
 
 Take your almonds blanched, and dry and pound them 
 in a mortar with the whites of eggs, which you must do 
 by degrees, to ‘prevent them turning into oil; when the 
 almonds are perfectly pounded, put in the sugar, sifted 
 through a silk sieve, and six or seven whites of eggs, 
 according to the state of the paste; wet your fingers 
 with water to prevent its sticking. ‘These macaroons are 
 _ to be dropped in little lumps, like balls; dip your hand 
 in cold water, and touch them lightly at the top to make 
 them shine ; they must be baked in a slack oven, and to 
 be certain of its heat, put one or two first in the oven to 
 try the heat; they may be run very easily through a 
 
164 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 bullock’s bladder, fixed to a pipe; by filling the bladder 
 with a paste, and pressing it, you will easily opens your 
 macaroons of a round-shape, ? 
 
 No. 409, French Macaroons. 
 
 1 1b. Almonds, 2 lbs. Sugar, and the whites of seven 
 eggs. 
 These macaroons are made in the same manner as the 
 bitter almond macaroons; it is difficult to fix the exact 
 number of eggs to be used, as the size of the eggs, the 
 dryness of the almonds and sugar, frequently make a 
 difference. 
 
 No. 410. Light Macaroons. 
 2lb. sweet, i1b. bitter Almonds, and 141b, Sugar. 
 
 Cut your almonds into fillets or small pieces; the bitter 
 almonds must be prawlined white, or moistened with the 
 whites of eggs; to make them, take part of the above, 
 with a pound and a half of sugar, which must be sifted 
 over them through a silk sieve; to make them brown, 
 put your almonds in the mouth of the oven, and when of 
 a fine clear colour, mix them with the remainder of the 
 sugar and the whites of three eggs, more or less, accord- 
 ing to your paste, which must be of a sufficient con- 
 sistence to drop. Wet your hand as usual, and touch 
 them lightly on the top to make them shine ; when cold, 
 take them from the paper. They may be made with 
 nuts, filberts, or pistachios; the oven must be of a gentle 
 heat 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 165 
 
 No. 411. English Macaroons. 
 
 1b. sweet Almonds, 1} lb. Sugar, six whites of Eggs, 
 and the raspings of two Lemons. 
 
 Pound the almonds very fine with six whites of eggs, or 
 a few more if required, as this depends on the size of the 
 eges; feel the almonds, and if there be no lumps in 
 them they will do; then add your powdered sugar, and 
 mix it well with the lemon raspings. Dress them on 
 wafer paper, of what size or shape you please; the 
 general shape is oval; bake them in a moderate heat; 
 when done, let them stand till cold, then cut the wafer 
 paper round them, but leave it on the bottoms of the 
 cakes. 
 
 No. 412. Chocolate Macaroons 
 
 11b. Sweet Almonds, 3 lbs. Sugar, the whites of eight 
 Eggs, 3 pods of Vanilla, reduced to a powder, 4 oz, 
 Chocolate, and a little Cinnamon. 
 
 These macaroons are made the same as those with 
 bitter almonds; melt the chocolate to mix with the 
 paste, add a little vanilla, and some cinnamon, according 
 to your taste; a small quantity of ambergris may be 
 added, and two cloves; or they may be made with cho- 
 colate only.: 
 
 No. 413. Spice Macaroons. 
 
 1 1b. sweet Almonds ; 3 lbs. Sugar; eight or nine whites 
 of Eggs ; a spoonful of Cinnamon, three Cloves ; and 
 rasped Orange and Lemon Peel. 
 
 Work these ingredients as for the macaroons, with bitter 
 almonds, except that the spices must be pounded and 
 sifted through a silk sieve. 
 
166 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 414. Fasting Macaroons 
 
 Take their name from being used on the Continent, on — 
 fast-days, in nunneries, and religious houses; in these 4 
 macaroons gum-dragon is used as a substitute for eggs H 
 the gum must be dissolved very thin in common or 
 orange-flower water, and strained through a sieve by the 
 aid of a spaddle; it produces the same effect as the 
 white of an egg. 
 
 No. 415. Ratafia Biscuits. 
 
 1 1b, bitter, 4. 1b. sweet Almonds, 2 lbs. Sugar, and seven 
 whites of Eygs. 
 
 Blanch and clean the almonds, and put them in your 
 mortar, with seven whites of eggs, and pound them very 
 fine; then add the powdered sugar, and mix it in your 
 mortar for a quarter of an hour, asa good ratafia biscuit 
 cannot be made unless the sugar be well mixed in. 
 Dress these biscuits on strong paper, or you will find it 
 difficult to take them off; tie a pipe on the end of a 
 bladder, but first cut a hole in the bottom of the bladder, 
 so as just to admit the pipe, then tie it with a string; 
 this pipe is generally about an inch and a half long; you 
 must have it longer or smaller in the bore, according to 
 _the size of the biscuit; fill the bladder with the paste, 
 and drop it on your paper, but the biscuits must not 
 touch each other ; bake them on plates in a warm oven ; 
 if your paper and biscuits are good, they will come off 
 easily ; but if you find them stick, wet the paper at the 
 bottom, and they will soon come off: in this case you 
 must put them in the stove to dry for three or four hours. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 167 
 
 No. 416. Almond Wafers. 
 
 _4$1b. Almonds, 4 oz. pounded Sugar, 1 oz. Flour, and 
 two Eggs. 
 
 Cut your almonds into very fine fillets, wet them with 
 two or three eggs, yolks and whites together; add the 
 sugar in powder, and the flour, and mix the whole well 
 with a drop of any essence you please; lightly butter a 
 plate of copper, tinned, and spread the mixture on it as 
 thin as possible ; bake it of a fine colour, cut it with a 
 knife into long squares, roll them on pieces of wood like 
 hollow pillars, or give them any other form you may pre- 
 fer. These wafers may be made of pistachios, covered 
 with currants, and powdered with coarse sifted sugar: 
 they are used to garnish creams; when in season, a 
 strawberry may be put into each end, but it must be a 
 fine one. 
 
 No. 417, Fancy Biscuits. 
 
 1b. Almonds, 11b. Sugar, and some Orange-flower 
 Water. 
 
 Pound your almonds very fine, sprinkling them with 
 orange-flower water; when they are perfectly smooth to 
 the touch, put them in a small pan with sugar sifted 
 through a silk sieve; put the pan on a slow fire, and dry 
 the paste till it does not stick to your fingers ; move it 
 well from the bottom, that it may not burn, which it very 
 soon will if not well stirred; take it off, and roll it into 
 small round fillets, to make knots, rings, &c., and cut it 
 into various shapes; make a royal iceing of different 
 colours, dip one side of them in it, and set them on wire 
 gratings to drain. They may be varied, by strewing over 
 them coloured pistachios or coloured almonds, according 
 to fancy. | 
 
168 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 418. . Fancy Biscuits, pushed with a Syringe. 
 
 1b, sweet Almonds, 141. Sugar, and three whites 
 . of Eggs. oe 
 
 Pound your almonds very fine with the whites of eggs, — 
 then add the sugar, sifted through a silk sieve; make 
 this into a paste, and put in what essence you please; _ 
 take a syringe, of which the pipe must form a star (see — 
 plate Il. fig. 1); put some of your paste in, and force it — 
 by pressure to the shape, and cut it into the proper — 
 lengths; as for rings, half-moons, knots, &c., arrange — 
 them on sheets of paper, and bake them of a fine colour, 
 ina slack oven. You may bake some of them the next 
 day on boards, that they may only rise without losing the — 
 shape given to them; they may be coloured by adding 
 the colour to the paste; but if this be the case, they 
 must be baked in a slacker oven, or the colour will not 
 stand. 
 
 No. 419, Mould Fancy Biscuits. 
 1lb. Almonds, 11b. Sugar, and any Essence you please. 
 
 Blanch and steep your almonds in water to whiten them, 
 pound them very fine, and add half a pound of sugar, 
 - sifted through a silk sieve ; put this in a copper pan on a 
 very slow fire, stirring it with a spaddle, and taking great 
 care that it does not burn. If it does not stick to the 
 fingers, it is sufficiently dry to be put back into the mor- 
 tar, and pounded again with the other half pound of 
 sugar, or more if necessary, to make it malleable. With 
 this paste you may imitate any fruit you have a 
 mould for, engraved on wood (see plate II. fig. 4) ; and 
 colour the paste according to the fruit you imitate. To 
 make the shell of a nut, fill your paste with powdered 
 cinnamon (see Colours), You may with this paste make 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 169 
 
 any thing you please besides fruit, as flowers, animals, 
 and even temples, pyramids, or ornaments of any kind; 
 it is in this respect like gum paste, and may be candied. 
 
 No. 420. Walnut Biscuits. 
 
 1 1b. Almonds ; six whites of Eggs; %1b. Sugar, Nut- 
 | meg and Allspice. 
 
 To make the shell of the walnut, first pound your al- 
 monds very fine, with whites of eggs; add the sugar, 
 mix this well together, take it out, and work in some 
 nutmeg and allspice to colourit. Cut your paste to such 
 a size as will push your mould full, roll it in sugar to 
 prevent its sticking, and bake the biscuits on plates in a 
 slack oven. 
 
 No. 421. Walnut Biscuits. 
 
 1 lb, Jordan Almonds ; 4 1b. Sugar, and six whites of 
 kiggs. 
 
 To make the kernel, blanch and pound your almonds 
 with whites of eggs, and when they are very fine, mix in 
 the sugar; then take a small copper pan, put in your 
 paste, and dry it on a gentle fire till it becomes quite 
 stiff; take it off the fire, and when cold cut it in small 
 pieces, as above, and push it in your moulds. Bake 
 these biscuits ina slack oven, for they must have little or 
 no colour; when they are cold, stick the shell and kernel 
 together with a little melted gum arabic, then put them 
 in-the oven for two or three minutes to dry. 
 
 No. 422. Moss Biscuits. 
 Lib. Sweet Almonds, five whites of Eggs, and 4 lb. Sugar. 
 
 Pound your almonds very fine with the whites of eggs, 
 add powdered sugar, beat this well in your mortar to a 
 I 
 
170 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 stiff pastes then take it out and work it on a pasteboard, — 
 roll it out, and cut it in pieces the size of a walnut; dip — 
 one end in some cochineal, and squeeze it through a wire 
 sieve to the size of a halfpenny ; fill your sieve, and let 
 them hang downwards as you push them; let them hang 
 til they are dry enough to stand up stiff, and bake them 
 on plates, with one sheet of paper under them, in aslack 
 oven. 
 
 No. 423. Italian Wafers. 
 
 Cut some wafer papers of an oval shape, and spread 
 them with French macaroon paste, very thin (see Maca- 
 roon Paste, No. 409); have some almonds chopped fine, 
 but in pieces of equal size, and cover the wafers all over 
 with them; bake them on arched pans made for that 
 purpose, and they will form a pretty arch; bake them in 
 a slack oven. Butter the pans a little, but you must 
 afterwards rub them well with a piece of paper, or it 
 will discolour the wafer paper ; take them off while they 
 are hot. 
 
 No, 424. Almond Faggots. 
 
 “Whisk up the whites of four eggs, and put in the yolks of 
 three, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, 
 whisk this together well, then put in as many almonds, 
 cut very fine into strips, as will make it quite stiff, but let 
 the almonds be very dry, then cover the plate, or wire, 
 with wafer paper, and dress them in small heaps, as 
 pointed as you can; bake them in a slack oven; when 
 coloured they are done; take them out, and let them 
 stand till cold, then trim the wafer paper round them, 
 but let it remain at the bottom. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. L7L. 
 
  gbse 
 - No. 425. Zephyr Biscuits. 
 
 Pound your almonds, and sprinkle them with orange- 
 flower water, to prevent their turning to oil; prepare the 
 sugar, boiled to a feather, mix it with the ends, and 
 make it a malleable paste. Powder your table with fine 
 sugar sifted through a silk sieve, and pour the paste on 
 it to set it; roll it out, and cut it into different shapes 
 with tin cutting-tools; bake the biscuit in a slow heat. 
 You may make them about the thickness of half a crown; 
 but when baked they will be about four times that thick- 
 ness. 
 
 No. 426. Ginger-Bread Nuts 
 
 1 1b. Flour, +1b, moist Sugar, lb. Butter, 1 Ib. Orange, 
 Lemon, and Citron Peel, 10 oz. of Treacle, and 2 oz. 
 of Ginger. 
 
 Sift your flour on a pasteboard, and mix the sugar and 
 ginger with it; make a wall with as large a hole as you 
 can, then take the treacle and fresh butter, warm them 
 in a pan till the butter is all melted, and pour it in the 
 hole on your board: then take the orange, lemon, and 
 citron peel, pound it, and pass it through a hair sieve, 
 mixing this in your treacle, and making it up altogether 
 into a paste. Roll it out with a little flour, and cut it in 
 pieces as large as you choose; they may be made 
 round, but the general mode is to pinch them up with 
 your finger; bake them on buttered papers on plates, in 
 a hot oven, 
 
 12 
 
172 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No, 427. Flat Ginger-bread Nuts. 
 
 1lb. Butter, 1£1b. Sweetmeats, 20z. Allspice, Loz. 
 Ginger, 11b. moist Sugar, 3lbs. Flour, and 3 lbs. 
 
 Treacle. 
 
 Sift the flour on your board, and make a wall; putin 
 the treacle, moist sugar, butter, allspice, ginger, orange, 
 lemon and citron peel, chopped very fine, and mix these 
 altogether to a paste, with as little extra flour as pos- 
 sible, Roll it out about the size of half a crown when 
 on the sheets, flatten them a little with your fingers, 
 and bake them on buttered papers in a hot oven; take 
 them off as soon as baked, or they will stick to the 
 
 paper. 
 No, 428. Ginger Cakes, with Butter. 
 
 1 lb. Butter, 10 0z. Sugar, 5 oz. Ginger, two Eggs, and 
 half a pint of Cream. 
 
 Sift some flour on your pasteboard, and make a wall; 
 put in the butter, pounded sugar, pounded ginger, the 
 eges, and half a pint of cream; mix this up with as 
 much flour as will make a stiff paste, roll it out to the 
 eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut it out with a round 
 cutter to the size you like. Bake the cakes ina mode- 
 rate heat, on plates on which flour has been sifted. 
 
 No. 429. Ginger Cakes without Butter.. 
 
 1b, Sugar, 4 1b. Ginger, a pint of Water, 2 lbs. Flour, 
 and eight caps of Orange Peel. 
 
 Pound and sift the ginger, and add a pint of water ; boil 
 it on the fire for five minutes, and let it stand till cold: 
 then pound the preserved orange peel, and pass it 
 through a hair sieve; take the flour and put it on a 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 173 
 
 pasteboard, make a wall, and put in the orange peel 
 
 and ginger with the water you boiled; mix this up toa 
 
 paste, and roll it out (as above) ; prick the caltes all over 
 before you bake them. 
 
 | No. 430. Shrewsbury Cakes. 
 
 11. fresh Butter, 1 lb. Flour, 14.1b, powdered Sugar, two 
 Eggs, and 4 0z. Caraway-Seeds. 
 
 Mix these ingredients well together on a pasteboard ; if 
 you find the paste too stiff, add a little more egg to make 
 it work easily; use as little flour to roll it out as possible, 
 because if you have too much flour, the paste will be 
 tough, and draw up in baking; roll the biscuits quite 
 thin, cut them out with a round cutter, and bake them 
 on plates in a hot oven. r 
 
 No. 431. Portugal Cakes. 
 
 2 lbs. Butter, 2lbs. Sugar, nine yolks and four whites of 
 Eggs, 2 lbs. Currants, and a glass of Brandy. : 
 
 Melt the fresh butter to a cream, add the powdered 
 sugar, and stir it very lightly with five or six pieces of 
 cane, tied in the form ofa whisk; work in your yolks of 
 eggs two or three at a time, and have ready four whites 
 of eggs, beat up to a strong snow, and work them in 
 immediately, as you must not have to wait for them, or 
 the paste will become ‘stiff and work heavy ; add the 
 currants and brandy, and mix it well together. Bake the 
 cakes in round tins in a hot oven, with six sheets of paper 
 under them. 
 
174 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 432. Cocoa Hisense 
 
 1 lb. sweet Almonds, 1 lb. Cocoa Nut, 4 lbs. fine Sugar, 
 » — and six pods of Vanilla, 
 
 Pound your almonds very fine with a little water, to pre- 
 vent their turning to oil: then pound the cocoa nut sepa- 
 rately, which must be burnt and picked; when well 
 pounded, add the almonds with the white of an egg; and 
 afterwards the pounded sugar, previously sifted through 
 a silk sieve, and mix them with the paste; over which 
 put the pounded vanilla, which must be sifted through 
 the same sieve as the sugar was; then roll out your 
 paste to the thickness of half a crown, and cut it with a 
 tin cutter into rounds or ovals. Set them on paper, and 
 put them in the oven, after slightly touching them on the 
 surface with a pencil dipped in cold water, that they may 
 be iced ; let your oven be slack. 
 
 No. 433. Cinnamon Stick Biscuits. 
 
 Take the quantity you want of the paste of fancy bis- 
 cuit (see No. 419); add cinnamon in powder, and a 
 little bol ammoniac, to imitate the colour of cinnamon ; 
 roll it out extremely thin on wafer paper, cut and turn 
 it on little rods, to imitate as closely as possible sticks of 
 cinnamon; bake them in a slack oven. 
 
 No, 434, Cinnamon Blow Biscuits. 
 1 1b. Sugar, 1 1b. Flour, four whites of Eggs, and 
 
 Essences. 
 
 These biscuits are made in the same manner as the pa- 
 tience biscuits (No. 369), except that the paste is made 
 
 more firm; make them round or oval on paper, colour- | 
 
 ing and finishing them as in the next article. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER., 175 
 
 No. 435. Little Blow Biscuits. 
 Whites of Eggs, fine Sugar, and Essences. 
 
 Take whites of eggs, according to the quantity you want 
 to make ; in general, one white is enough for half a pound 
 of sugar. Make a malleable paste, sift the sugar through 
 a silk sieve, leave half the paste white, and divide the 
 rest into as many parts as you wish to have colours: 
 add to each part what colour and essence you please 
 (see Colours), as rose colour for roses; orris for violet ; 
 brown for chocolate, cinnamon, coffee, &c.; white for 
 orange-flower ; green for pistachios, filberts, almonds, 
 &c. The various colours may be mixed, and thus pro 
 duce a pleasing assortment, as yellow and red together, 
 blue and yellow, red and blue, &c. The paste, thus pre- 
 pared, roll into little balls in the palm of your hands, 
 taking care to wet them with a little water, to make them 
 shine; set them on paper in a very slack oven, as the 
 colours require great care and attention. You may 
 make little paper cases also, like those for biscuits (see 
 plate 1. fig. 18), but they must be only an inch over, 
 
 * with depth in proportion ; into these put some of the 
 same paste; it is then called biscuit case ; you may put 
 a small almond in each, or some prawlined orange- 
 flowers; always moisten the surface before you bake 
 them. 
 
 No. 436. Wafer Biscuits. 
 
 2o0z. Sugar, 24 oz. Flour, the whites of two Eggs, a drop 
 of Oil of Cinnamon, and a drop of Cloves. 
 
 Take the whites of eggs, melt the sugar, sifted through 
 a silk sieve, and mix these articles with the flour, and 
 a drop of essence of cinnamon and cloves, making a liquid 
 paste ; have copper plates, tinned, butter them slightly, 
 
176 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 and lay your paste on them, which-must be very liquid, 
 
 or moist, in drops the size of a penny, distant from each 
 other four inches ; when the plate is prepared, increase - 
 the size of the drops by spreading them with the fore- 
 
 finger till they are very large, and of the thickness of 
 
 wafers; bake them ofa fine colour; have a small roller 
 
 to roll them on like other wafers, or turn them into little 
 
 horns; they are excellent to ornament a cream. 
 
 No. 437. Dry Meringues. 
 Twelve whites of Eggs, and 1 lb. Sugar. 
 
 Beat up the whites of eggs; when firm, add a pound of 
 powdered sugar, with what essence you please; lay out 
 
 the paste with an iron or silver spoon into the shape of 
 half a large egg, on sheets of paper; then cover them 
 
 with sugar sifted through a silk sieve, and blow away the 
 
 surplus sugar. Have a board, about two inches in thick- 
 
 ness, on which you put the meringues to bake, as they 
 
 must receive no heat but from the top; when they are of 
 
 a fine colour, take them from the papers, beat in, with the - 
 back of a spoon, the liquid part to form a hollow, and 
 
 then put them back into the oven to dry the inside, which 
 
 is to be filled with a cream or jelly at pleasure, to be put 
 
 in the moment you serve them up. Meringues are varied 
 
 in taste and form, and may be ornamented with pistachios 
 
 cut in fillets, and stuck in them; or currants or almonds 
 
 may be added. 
 
 No, 438. Italian Meringues. 
 Twelve whites of Eggs, 1 1b. Sugar, and $1b, Almonds. 
 
 Make the paste exactly as for the dry meringues, and add 
 the almonds cut into lengths, with a few prawlined orange- 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 177 
 
 flowers ; have ready square paper cases, rather deep, and 
 put in your paste ; ice the meringues with sugar, as BOVE, 
 and bake them on a tin sheet. gf 
 
 ‘No. 439, White Meringues. 
 Ll. Syrup, six whites of Eggs, and any Flavour you 
 
 please. 
 
 Take a pound of clarified sugar, boil it to the little fea- 
 ther, and let it cool a little; in the mean time beat up the 
 whites to a strong snow, and when the whites are ready, 
 take a spaddle and rub the sugar on the sides of the pan ; 
 when you see it white put your whites in, and mix them 
 in well, and the paste will become very white, firm, and 
 shining; put it out on sheets of paper, in the desired shape, 
 and let them be baked in a very slack oven. They may 
 be made pink by adding a little carmine or cochineal. 
 (See Colours.)—Observe, that in all the above meringues, 
 when served, the hollow must be filled with cream, jelly, 
 or marmalades, and then the two halves must be joined 
 together, which will give the appearance of a whole egg. 
 
 No, 440. Light Merinques. 
 
 Twelve whites of Eggs, 1 lb. Sugar, and Orange-flower 
 Water. 
 
 Make these in the same manner as the dry meringues, 
 only put the paper on plates of copper, that they may 
 bake equally; give them any pretty shape but do not join 
 them. 
 
178 ss HPALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 441. Meteors, 
 Three whites of Eggs, 1 lb. Sugar, made into Syrup, 
 
 _and any Essence you please. 
 
 Put on the fire a pound of syrup in a pan that has a lip 
 to it, and boil it to a blow ; in the mean time beat up the 
 whites of the eggs, taking care to have them ready the 
 moment the sugar is at the blow; pour the syrup in lightly 
 to the eggs, and continue turning it till it is compact, 
 smooth, and shining ; ; lay it on paper, in drops as large as 
 a penny, and dry it in the stove ; then take off the meteors, 
 by wetting the papers at the back. To give them a proper 
 shape, you must have frames in paper; they may be made 
 of all colours, and may be candied.—(See Candy.)— 
 You may also make them small like drops, but you must 
 observe, that as you take them off, they must be neatly 
 joined where they have been moistened, and they will 
 then stick together. Cy 
 
 No. 442. Water Cakes. 
 
 1lb. Flour, 4 lb. Butter, 4 1b. Sugar, and 2 oz. of 
 Caraway-Seeds. 
 
 Rub your butter well into the flour, add powdered sugar, 
 and seeds, and take milk enough to make a paste that 
 will roll very thin; roll these cakes as thin as possible, 
 with very little flour, and bake them on buttered papers, 
 observing to prick them all over before you bake them ; 
 they must be baked very light in a slack oven. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. ‘179 
 
 Section XXIV.—OF DISTILLATION—OF 
 SPIRITS, LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS, 
 &c. &c. 
 
 No, 443. Of Distillation. 
 
 A practicat knowledge of this art is particularly useful 
 to the confectioner to enable him to obtain, at a small 
 expense, the various flavours and spirits which he is in 
 daily want of, and also to distil the choicest liqueurs which 
 he may find it necessary to keep for the gratification of 
 the amateur, The abuses and vile sophistication prac. 
 tised in this department of the business, are so notorious, 
 that the confectioner cannot be too particular in attending 
 himself to this important operation, upon which, in a very 
 mat@fal degree, depends the success of all his efforts. 
 
 First, you must have an alembic which will hold ten or 
 twelve pints (see plate II, fig. 18), composed of two pieces, 
 the cucurbit to contain the infusion, and the capital or 
 head to receive the vapour, and conduct it into the worm, 
 which discharges it into a receiver. ‘To obtain the essen- 
 tial oil of plants, you must distil with an open fire, that 
 is, with a fire that must immediately strike the bottom of 
 the cucurbit; to distil spirits, the cucurbit must be put 
 into a pan half full of water. 
 
 Distillation with an open fire is the quickest; but it 
 requires great attention: that with the bath is less expe- 
 _ ditious, but more sure; it has also the advantage of pre- 
 venting the article from burning, and is undoubtedly the 
 best for the confectioner, Fill the cucurbit only three 
 quarters full, to give it room to boil, and place it in a pan 
 of water on the fire, indlining it a little to the side of the 
 
180 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 lip or spout; then lute it well, that is, close it completely, 
 to prevent evaporation. Take a lute, made of equal pro- 
 portions of flour, whitening, and salt, mixed together with 
 the blade of a knife, and diluted with water ; spread this. 
 on pieces of rag, and close all the crevices; the worm- 
 tub must be kept full of cold water, which must be changed 
 as often as it becomes hot, by opening a cock placed at 
 the third of the height of the tub, as the water at the 
 bottom will be cold, while that of the surface will be very 
 hot. 
 
 The alembic being thus placed, you must not quit it 
 an instant ; and when the fire begins to heat it, you must 
 be careful not to let the contents of the cucurbit boil too 
 hastily, and lessen the fire accordingly ; you must be pro- 
 vided with cloths, dipped in cold water, to put round the 
 alembic, in case of accident, or if it should boil too vio- 
 lently. To operate well, you should keep a little streamlet 
 continually flowing from the beginning to the end of the 
 quantity you are to receive. If you see the phlegmfarise, 
 which is aqueous and insipid, and any part of it gets into 
 the receiver, that must be set apart to be distilled over 
 again, as will be hereafter mentioned. 
 
 No. 444. Rose Water. is 
 
 The pale single roses are the best ; they must be gathered 
 fresh in the morning, after sunrise, in dry weather, be- 
 cause moisture takes off a part of the perfume : pick off 
 the leaves, weigh them, and to every pound of roses add 
 a pint of water; then put them in a pan with a handful 
 of salt, and let them steep for twenty-four hours. Fill 
 the cucurbit two-thirds and put a bed of straw at the 
 bottom of the alembic, as the roses are apt to stick to the 
 bottom, which would occasion a bad smell in the dis- 
 tilled water. If the distillation is of twelve pints, the 
 
 gee. ee 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 181 
 
 four first will be the best; the other four or five will 
 be inferior, but they may be used to distil other roses, 
 which will improve the quality of the water: if you wish 
 to have it double, you must distil it again with fresh 
 roses. | . 3 
 
 No. 445. Orange-Flower Water. 
 
 Gather the orange-flowers after sunrise, and put them, 
 without picking them to pieces, into the cucurbit; add- 
 ing to every pound of flowers two pints of water: this 
 will produce a pint and a halfto the pound. ‘The fire 
 must be kept equal while you distil, and the water will 
 be stronger and more agreeable, if you take only the 
 leaves of the flowers, and put a pint of water to every 
 pound of flowers. 
 
 No. 446. Distilled Waters of all kinds. 
 
 By the processes above detailed, you may obtain any dis- 
 tilled water you choose ; if you want lemon-water, scrape 
 or rasp some lemon-peel, putting a pint of water to a 
 pound of lemon-peel, and distil it as above. Orange, 
 wormwood, lavender, cinnamon, caraways, mint, and all 
 other plants, in the same manner; observing that it is 
 better to let the plants steep in water for twenty-four 
 hours before you distil them. To distil roots, or dry 
 plants, they should be put to infuse in boiling *water, be- 
 fore they are distilled. 
 
 No. 447. Of Spirits for Liqueurs. 
 
 These are made by putting into the cucurbit, orange, 
 rose, or any other flowers, and to every pound adding 
 half a pint of spirits of wine, or alcohol, at thirty-nine 
 
182 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 degrees. Distil them in the bath, as above, and the pro- 
 duce will be as much in quantity as the spirits we <— 
 put over the flowers. . 
 
 No. 448. Spirits of Violets. 
 
 Take four ounces of pulverized orris-root, and infuse 
 it for a fortnight in a pint of spirits of wine. Spirits of 
 lemon, orange-peel, mint, vanilla, and ginger, are made 
 in the same manner: they must be filtered through 
 blotting-paper. 
 
 No. 449. Maraschino. 
 
 One pound of Morello cherries, one pound of black 
 wild cherries, one pound of raspberries, a quarter of a 
 pound of peach-leaves, seven pints of brandy, and one 
 pint of water. Mash the fruit, and put the juice ina 
 jug; pick out the stalks of the cherries, pound the 
 stones and skins with the peach-leaves, and let them 
 infuse in the jug for fifteen days, in seven pints of 
 brandy and one of water. Distil, and draw four pints of 
 spirits. 
 
 No, 450. Cordial Spirit of Vanilla, 
 
 Eleven pints of brandy, thirty ounces of fennel, two 
 ounces of aniseed, one ounce of mace, a handful of mar- 
 joram, three ounces of vanilla, three ounces of cloves, 
 two ounces of cinnamon, half an ounce of saffron, the 
 raspings of nine oranges, and of three lemons. Break 
 up the whole, and put them to infuse in a pitcher or jar, 
 in eleven pints of brandy, for a month; afterwards distil 
 it, and receive about six pints of spirits. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 183 
 
 No. 451. Spirit of Barbadoes Cream. 
 
 The raspings of fourteen Seville oranges, of eight China 
 oranges, and eight lemons, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, eight pints of brandy, one pint of water, sixteen 
 cloves, and a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, pounded 
 before they are put in the brandy: put the whole in the 
 still, and draw by a small stream or fillet, four pints and 
 a, half of spirits. 
 
 No, 452. Spirit of Angelica. 
 
 Four ounces of angelica-seeds, and seven pints of brandy : 
 pound the seeds, infuse them in the brandy; let them 
 steep for eight days. Distil three pints and a half of 
 spirits. ; 
 
 No, 453, Spirit of Orange. 
 
 Seven pints of brandy, the raspings of six China oranges, 
 and of eight Seville oranges: to be infused for a month, 
 and distilled together by a small fillet or stream, 
 
 No. 454,  Aniseed Spirit. 
 
 Hight ounces of aniseed, and nine pints of brandy. 
 Pound the aniseed, and steep it in the brandy for eight 
 days: distil five pints, 
 
 No. 455. Spirit of Cinnamon. 
 
 . Nine pints of brandy, and one pound of cinnamon. You 
 may distil this at once, without waiting to infuse it. 
 
184 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 456. Spirit of Cedratys. 
 
 The raspings of twelve cedratys, and seven pints of 
 brandy, to be infused for fifteen days: distil, and draw 
 three pints anda half of spirits. - 
 
 No, 497. Spirit of Pinks. 
 
 Seven pints of brandy, half a drachm of angelica-seeds, 
 one drachm of cloves, four handsful of leaves of pinks, 
 and one drachm of mace: distil directly, and receive 
 three pints and a half, 
 
 No. 458. Spirit of Escubac. 
 
 One ounce of saffron, four ounces of catechu, half a 
 grain of ambergris, ten pints of brandy, eight ounces of 
 Barcelona nuts, two drachms of corianders, and the 
 rinds of two oranges. Pound the whole, and after a few 
 days infusion, distil it to about six pints. 
 
 No. 459. Spirit of Venus. 
 
 Four ounces of juniper, one ounce of cinnamon, one 
 ounce of raspings of cedratys, ten pints of brandy, four 
 ounces of corianders, two ounces of celery-seeds, and 
 the rasping of one orange: infuse for a week and distil 
 six pints. 
 
 No. 460. Spirit of Coffee. 
 
 One pound of coffee, and nine pints of brandy. Roast 
 a pound of coffee, grind and infuse it in the brandy ; let 
 it steep for a week; distil it, and receive about five pints 
 of spirit. 
 
 ' 
 | 
 . 
 
ATALIAN CONFECTIONER. 185 
 
 No. 461. Spirit of Tea. 
 
 Four ounces of tea, and nine pints of brandy. Make a 
 decoction of four ounces of the best tea you can procure, 
 in a pint of boiling water; let it draw for two hours, 
 then pour it into a jug, with nine pints of brandy: let it 
 infuse for eight days: distil it, and draw five pints. 
 
 No. 462. Spirit of Almonds. 
 
 One pound of bitter almonds, nine pints of brandy, and 
 half an ounce of angelica-roots. Pound the bitter 
 almonds very fine, moisten them with water, lest they 
 should oil; add your angelica-root crushed, and mix it 
 with nine pints of brandy; let it infuse for a fortnight : 
 distil, and draw five pints. 
 
 No. 463, Spirit of Cuirasseau. 
 
 Four drachms of cinnamon, ten pints of brandy, two. 
 drachms of mace, and the raspings of twenty-four 
 Seville oranges. Pound the whole coarsely, and infuse 
 it for a week; after which, distil it to six pints of spirit. 
 
 No. 464. Spirit of Percicot. 
 
 One pound of kernels of apricot, one pound of peach- 
 leaves, one drachm of cinnamon, and nine pints of 
 brandy. Pound the kernels and the peach-leaves; add 
 the cinnamon coarsely pounded, and infuse for eight 
 days. Distil to five pints of spirits. 
 
 No. 465. Kirchewasser, or Spirit of Cherries. 
 
 Take the head off a barrel, and fill it with small wild 
 black cherries, picked from the stalks ; cover them with 
 
186 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 plaster or mortar, and leave them for two months; then | 
 take them out and distil them, and they will furnish an 
 excellent spirit, when bottled, and of some age. 
 
 No. 466. Bourdeaux Aniseed. 
 
 Two ounces of coriander, five ounces of aniseed (star), 
 five ounces of aniseed green, once ounce of fennel, and 
 nine pints of brandy, Pound the grains coarsely, and 
 infuse them in the brandy for eight days. Distil to five 
 pints and a half. 
 
 No, 467. Spirit of Cloves. 
 
 Six ounces of cloves, and nine pints of brandy. Distil 
 to four pints and a half. 
 
 No. 468. General Observations on Spirits. 
 
 The spirits just described may be made according to the 
 strength of the brandy used; but for a certain rule, 
 notice, that when the least phlegm runs into the receiver, 
 you must take it away, and leave off distilling. The 
 phlegm is easily known, as it is white, and one single 
 drop would thicken the spirit, and give it a bad taste. 
 You must also mind, that the spirit comes by a small 
 streamlet or fillet; for if the fire be too strong, you will 
 raise the phlegm along with the spirit; in this case, you 
 must cohobate, that is, put back what you have received 
 into the cucurbit, and re-distil it; all these spirits are 
 used for liqueur drops, conserves, ices, and all other 
 articles in which liqueurs are introduced. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 187 
 
 No. 469. Liqueur made with Spirits. 
 
 One pint of spirits, one pint of water, and one pound of 
 sugar. To render our distilled aromatic spirits fit for 
 drinking, we must add water and sugar. When you wish 
 to make a few bottles of liqueurs, or factitious spirits, 
 take a pound of fine sugar, dissolve it ina pint of cold 
 water, and add to it a pint of spirits; mix them, and let 
 them stand for twenty-four hours, filtering them through 
 blotting-paper, which must be folded and put into a 
 funnel in the bottle intended to receive the liqueur: the 
 strength of the liqueur may be regulated according to 
 taste. Dealers in compounds and cordials, filter their 
 liqueurs through a thick kind of cloth, made by hatters, 
 in the form of a bag; the bag is to be wetted with 
 isinglass, clarified with white wine, by moistening it 
 with a sponge, and wetting the bag regularly all over the 
 inside; the liqueur then passes through it very clear. 
 
 No. 470. Of Colouring Liqueurs. 
 
 All spirits being white, liqueurs are commonly coloured, 
 either to please the eye, or to conceal the defects of an 
 inferior article; pernicious colours, as blue and violet, 
 are sometimes used for this purpose; the rose and yellow 
 colours are perfectly innocent: to colour yellow, infuse 
 saffron in spirits of wine, or dissolve caramel in a little 
 water, (see No. 12); but the sugar must be burnt of a 
 darker colour; to colour liqueurs red, use prepared 
 cochineal. As the other colours are pernicious, we shall 
 not name the ingredients. 
 
 No. 471. Ratafias. 
 
 Every liqueur made by infusions, is called ratajia ; that 
 is, when the spirit is made to imbibe thoroughly the 
 
188 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 aromatic flavour and colour of the fruit steeped in it: 
 when this has taken place, the liqueur is drawn off, and 
 sugar added to it; it is then filtered and bottled. | 
 
 No. 472. Ratafia of Cherries. 
 
 Wild cherries ten pounds, Morello cherries ten pounds, 
 cinnamon two drachms, mace two drachms, brandy eight 
 pints, strawberries two pounds, raspberries two pounds, 
 corianders four ounces, and four ounces of sugar to every 
 pint of juice. Crush the fruit, strain the juice through 
 a sieve, and pound the stones, corianders, cinnamon, and 
 mace, separately, and infuse the whole in a jar. To 
 every pint of juice add four ounces of sugar ; let it steep 
 for a month; filter it, and bottle for use. 
 
 No. 473. Another Ratifia of Cherries. 
 
 Juice of Morello cherries fifteen pints, peach-leaves one 
 pound, brandy fourteen pints, cinnamon three drachms, 
 cloves one drachm, sugar eight pounds. Crush, and 
 strain through a sieve the pulp of your cherries, pound 
 the stones, put them altogether in a pan on the fire, and 
 give them one boil. When cold, measure the juice, and 
 when you have fifteen pints, add your peach-leaves, 
 cinnamon, and cloves; which must have been previously 
 bruised in a mortar, the sugar and brandy being added. 
 Put the whole into a jar, leave it for a month; draw it off, 
 and bottle it. 
 
 No. 474. Ratafia from four Fruits. 
 
 Morello cherries eight pounds, wild cherries six pounds, 
 raspberries four pounds, red currants eight pounds, black 
 currants four pounds, mace one drachm, cloves one 
 drachm, and four ounces of sugar to every pint of juice. 
 Proceed in the same manner as for cherries. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 189. 
 
 No. 475. Ratafia of Bluck Currants. 
 
 Black currants four pounds, black currant leaves one 
 pound, Morello cherries two pounds, cloves one drachm, 
 
 brandy ten pints, sugar ten pounds. Steep them as 
 above. 
 
 No. 476. Badiane. 
 
 Brandy three pints, water three pints, bitter almonds 
 one: pound, sugar one pound, one lemon peel rasped, six 
 cloves, cinnamon one ounce. Break up the whole, put 
 it into a jar with the lemon peel; the sugar being melted 
 in three pints of water, infuse for a month, strain it 
 through a flannel bag, and then filter the liqueur and 
 bottle it. 
 
 No. 477. Ratafia of Orange. 
 
 Six Chima oranges, two pounds of sugar, four pints of 
 brandy, and one pint of water. Peel six fine oranges, 
 infuse the rind in the brandy for fifteen days; melt 
 your sugar in the cold water, and strain and filter it as 
 above. 
 
 No. 478. Ratafia of Raspberries. 
 
 Raspberries ten pounds, sugar four pounds, brandy ten 
 pints, cinnamon two drachms, cloves one drachm, Infuse 
 the articles for fifteen days, stir the mixture every day, 
 strain it through a bag, and filter it. 
 
 No. 479. Ratafia of Currants. 
 
 Currants ten pounds, brandy ten pints, sugar four pounds,, 
 cinnamon two drachms, cloves two drachms, and proceed 
 as for raspberries. 
 
190 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,: 
 
 No. 480. Ratafia of Mulberries. 
 
 Mulberries ten pounds, brandy ten pints, sugar four 
 pounds, mace two drachms. Proceed as before, 
 
 No. 481. Vespitro. 
 
 Brandy two pints, aniseed one ounce, two lemons, sugar 
 one pound, corianders two ounces, fennel one ounce, 
 angelica two drachms. Break up these ingredients, and 
 put them in a jug, with two pints of brandy; peel the 
 two lemons, which you must add to the mixture, and 
 squeeze in the juice; break the sugar, dissolve it in 
 water, and put it into the jar; let it stand for a fort- 
 night, then strain it through a flannel bag, filter and 
 bottle it. 
 
 No. 482. Ratafia of Orange-Flowers, 
 
 Brandy three pints, water two pints, orange-flowers one 
 
 pound, and sugar one pound. Put the whole in a jar 
 
 well stopped, place it in a bath, almost boiling hot, for a 
 day ; the next day filter and bottle it. 
 
 No. 483, Yellow Toh 
 
 One ounce of saffron, one ounce of Damascus raisons, 
 one ounce of cinnamon, three pouuds of sugar, one 
 ounce of liquorice, one ounce of corianders, three pints 
 of brandy, two pints of water. Pound these: ingredients, 
 and dissolve the sugar in two pints of water; put the 
 whole in a jar to infuse for a month, taking care to stir it 
 up every second day, or the third at farthest, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 191 
 
 No. 484. Ratafia of Green Walnut Shells. 
 
 Two hundred walnuts, ten pints of brandy, four pounds 
 of sugar, one drachm of nutmeg, one drachm of cloves. 
 Choose two hundred walnuts, so young that a pin may 
 easily go through them, pound them in a mortar, and in- 
 fuse them in the brandy, with the nutmeg and cloves, for 
 a month; after that time strain the mixture through a 
 flannel bag, filter and bottle it. 
 
 No. 485. Angelica Ratafia. 
 
 Four ounces of angelica seeds, two ounces of the roots of 
 angelica, ten pints of brandy, one drachm of cloves, one 
 drachm of cinnamon, four pounds of sugar. Pound the 
 ingredients coarsely ; dissolve the sugar in water, and add 
 it to the mixture; infuse it in the brandy for a month ; 
 strain it through a bag and filter it. 
 
 No. 486. Ratafia of Red Pinks. 
 
 Three pounds of pinks, ten pints of brandy, four pounds 
 of sugar, one drachm of cloves, one drachm of cinnamon. 
 Pick off the green from your pinks, pound the leaves, and 
 infuse them for a month in the brandy, with the cloves and 
 cinnamon ; after this draw off the liquor and filter it. 
 
192 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 a 
 
 Suction XXV._OF GUM AND OTHER PASTES. 
 
 No. 487, Of Gum Paste. 
 
 Tue making of articles in gum-paste is one of the most 
 
 ‘ fs 
 » a an teal, ec 
 
 — es 
 
 interesting branches of the confectioner’s art. This mode’ — 
 
 of decoration and embellishment was once in great vogue, 
 and the most magnificent and costly ornaments have been 
 made of gum paste; but it has fallen comparatively into 
 disuse: and, what is worse for the confectioner, the frag- 
 ments of the art have been transferred to pastry-cooks, 
 and cooks, who have at once disfigured, if not destroyed, 
 the most beautiful flower in the banquet of the confec- 
 tioner. ‘To make gum-paste properly, great care and 
 dexterity, much patience, some knowledge of mythology, 
 of history, and of the arts of modelling and design, are re- 
 quisite—qualifications seldom possessed by the mere pas- 
 try-cook. The author, when at Paris, had many oppor- 
 
 tunities of knowing what might be done in this department,’ 
 
 and ‘every confectioner in that capital is well acquainted 
 with his productions in this way. 
 
 At a dinner given by the city of Paris to Napoleon, 
 then Emperor of the French, on his triumphant return 
 from Germany, the author constructed a groupe, two feet 
 in height; the Emperor, whose figure bore a striking re- 
 semblance, was represented standing, and putting up his 
 sword into the sheath, led by Victory, attended by several 
 allegorical figures, which were intended to express the 
 various high qualities so liberally attributed to Napoleon 
 by the French, as long as success attended him. It was 
 made for the centre of a table; and the Emperor, who 
 rarely noticed any thing which ornamented the table, ob- 
 served his portrait, and, with his characteristic attention 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 193 
 
 to works of ingenuity, was pleased to encourage the artist 
 _by his approbation. 
 
 No. 488. Fine Gum Paste. 
 Gum-dragon is the principal ingredient in gum paste; it 
 should be white and light, and every little spot on it 
 ‘should be scraped off with a penknife: put into a pan 
 the required quantity of gum, and pour water on it to 
 wash it, which you may do twice; when clean, put fresh 
 water on it to dissolve it, from one to two inches above the 
 ~ gum; let it stand for twenty-four hours, then crush it with 
 ‘a spaddle, strain it very thick, through a cloth, that it may 
 be clean, and let two persons wring the cloth. Shouid 
 much of it be wanted, a press (as in plate Il. fig. 3) will 
 be found useful: it was invented by the author when he 
 was in the habit of mixing sixty or eighty pounds of gum 
 paste every week, and he found it veryserviceable. ‘The 
 gum is to be put in a bag of thick linen, tightened and 
 fixed within a cylinder, pierced as in plate II. fig. 3. 
 When the gum is strained, pound it in a mortar, adding 
 some extremely fine and white powdered sugar, a very 
 little at a time: the great art of making this paste white, 
 is the using of very fine sugar and gum, and having the 
 mortar, as well as every thing else used for it, perfectly 
 clean ; the use of lemon-juice, or any other secret, is mere 
 fancy. When the paste breaks in pulling, it is done; 
 keep it in a pot covered with a wet cloth. . This paste is 
 to be used in every thing which is intended to be eaten, 
 
 No. 489. Common Gum Paste 
 
 Is made like the fine, except that to the sugar you pound 
 it with, is added some starch, powdered very fine, half 
 sugar, half starch ; it may be made still more common, 
 by adding one quarter of sugar only, 
 
194 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 
 
 No. 490. Rice Gum Paste. 
 
 Instead of starch, use rice flour. 
 
 No. 491. Plaster Gum Paste. 
 
 Moisten some fine plaster of Paris with water, and let it 
 set; dry it perfectly in the stove, reduce it again to pow- 
 der; wet, dry, and pound it again, to take out the remain- 
 ing heat; sift it through a silk sieve, and use it to fill the 
 sum-dragon instead of sugar. Marble gum paste is 
 made in the same manner, using marble dust instead of 
 sugar, of which there is to benone in either of these 
 pastes ; harden both with a little powdered starch ; it must 
 be used half dry, to fix it, as it is apt to shrink very much. 
 These pastes are only used for ornament. 
 
 No. 492. Drying Oil Paste. 
 
 When you have steeped the gum, as directed in No. 488, 
 put it into a mortar, with nearly an equal quantity of gum 
 Senegal, dissolved rather stiff, and add pulverized sugar to 
 give it a body or consistence; when well pounded, and so 
 that it sticks well, add a little drying oil prepared from 
 linseed. Take equal parts of starch, prepared plaster, 
 and rice flour, with whitening, and harden your paste 
 with this mixture; when your paste is smooth, compact, 
 and shining, you have used oil enough. This paste is 
 only fit for gilding or bronze, as it is never white enough 
 for any other purpose. To bronze it, put some bronze- 
 powder, with a hair pencil, on the upper surface of the 
 projecting parts. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 195 
 
 No. 493. Alabaster Paste, which will resist Damp, and 
 
 a" all sorts of Insects. 
 
 Moisten a quantity of gum-dragon, as for the fine paste: 
 after twenty-four hours, stir it, and add a glass of the fol- 
 lowing liquid. Fill a bottle half full of garlic, picked 
 quite clean, and bruised; fill up the bottle with the 
 strongest spirits of wine you can obtain: stop the bottle 
 lightly with paper, that it may not burst; put it into warm 
 water, boil it till it is reduced one-third, and then stop it 
 well for use. Put a small glass of this liquor to your 
 gum, pound them together, and fill it with the powder of 
 alabaster, adding liquor in proportion; finish hardening 
 it with starch as you use it. This paste is very beautiful, 
 and the best of compositions for the confectioner, as it 
 delivers well from the mould, and is very easy to work.— 
 If you cannot procure Italian alabaster, use the stone 
 plaster of Paris, in the same way as the alabaster powder, 
 The Italian alabaster, when baked, becomes plaster, 
 
196 ATALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 - $ 
 
 i. 
 Section XXVI.—OF MODELLING FLOWERS, 
 ANIMALS, FIGURES, &c. 
 
 No. 494. On modelling Flowers in fine Gum Paste, 3 
 
 DivivE your paste into the principal colours, as white, 
 red, blue, and yellow; and with these colours make the 
 compounds green, violet, dark and pale orange, employ- 
 ing the colour nearest to that of the flower you intend to 
 represent. For example, to model a rose, you must have 
 the calyx of the flower engraved in wood, and push it 
 with paste coloured green ; the heart you must model in 
 yellow paste; fix it by a wire to the calyx, and with a 
 little saffron, cut fine, and moistened with gum arabic, 
 imitate the seeds. Roll out your red paste very thin, 
 
 and with a tin cutter (see plate Il. fig. '7) cut out the 
 
 leaves; take them singly, and, witha modelling tool (see 
 plate II. fig. 6), roll them in your hand as thin as nature; 
 then take up the leaves, and fix them one by one round 
 the heart. When you have fixed a sufficient quantity of 
 leaves, push the calyx in the mould (see plate II. 
 
 fig. 7) ; and finish the whole, so as to unitate nature in 
 the best possible manner. 
 
 No. 495. Pinks. 
 
 It is more difficult to make pinks than roses, the varie- 
 gated colours not being easily imitated. Roll your paste, 
 as if you intended to make a ball; flatten it between your 
 finger and thumb, put it on a marble, and with the 
 modelling tool (see plate II. fig. 7) make stripes at ran- 
 dom, declining toward the edges, like the leaf; then fix 
 it to the calyx, or cup. The calyx must be formed with 
 
* 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 19%... 
 
 green. paste, by rolling it in the form of an olive, and 
 cutting it with the scissors, at top and bottom, so as to 
 
 make five or six marks, like nature. When your flowers 
 
 are mounted, you will sprinkle them with red, by dipping 
 a hair pencil in liquid carmine, and striking it over your 
 
 finger; stick the down or feather of a quill in the middle 
 of the flower, that it may be a better imitation of nature. 
 
 No. 496. Jasmine. 
 
 Take a ball of paste, and with a pair of scissors, cut six 
 or eight strips about half way down, and with a modelling 
 tool, worked against the fore-finger of your left hand, 
 imitate the flowers of the natural jasmine. Any other 
 flower may be imitated by following the natural direc- 
 tions givenabove. Much, of course, is left to the inge 
 nuity of the artist, as it would be obviously impossible to 
 give directions for every flower that may be modelled in 
 this way, without an excessive enlargement of the work ; 
 
 and, as before observed, the Author’s wish is to compress 
 his observations into as small a compass as is consistent 
 
 with distinctness. 
 
 No. 497. Fruit in Gum Paste. 
 
 Two kinds of fruit are made in gum paste; fruit of the 
 natural size, and very small fruit, called jewel fruits. To 
 make the large fruit, you must have plaster moulds taken 
 on fine fruit; make your paste the colour of the ground 
 of the fruit, roll it to about the thickness of half a crown, 
 
 apply it inside the mould, and take care to have a good 
 
 impression of it. Powder your mould with starch powder, 
 tied in a small linen bag, before you apply your paste, 
 that it may not stick ; ben nearly dry, join the two sides 
 of the fruit, with the same paste diluted with water ; 
 
198 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 when quite dry, take off the edges smooth with a fine 
 file; smooth it with polishing paper, and rub on the — 
 colour dry, with a piece of cotton; as red with carmine, 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 No. 498. Hornsin Gum Paste 
 
 Are made with or without mottos, and are used to orna- 
 ment spun sugar, vases, baskets, pieces montées, or any 
 thing executed in caramel. ‘Take the necessary quantity 
 of fine paste, of what colour you please; roll it out as 
 thin as paper, and stripe it with a fluted roller; cut them 
 out with a tin cutter, about the size of a shilling, and 
 have a piece of pointed stick (see plate II. fig. 11), on 
 which turn the little piece of paste to form a horn; 
 moisten the edges to join them, that they may keep their 
 form, and let them dry; if you wish to put mottos in 
 them, roll them up tight, and stick one in each, with a 
 little dissolved gum arabic. 
 
 No. 499. Shells in Gum Paste 
 
 Are cut out and made in the same manner, except that 
 you leave the lips more open. (See plate II. fig. 12.) 
 
 No. 500. Pastilles, Mille-Fleurs, 
 
 Are made with fine gum paste, of different colours. 
 Take a small quantity of paste in your left hand, pick off 
 little pieces with your right; and with the fore-finger roll 
 them on the gratings of a fine wire sieve, to take the im- 
 pression and form of ashell; they may be scented with 
 any essence you please. You may also have different 
 pleasing forms engraved on a board, to answer the same 
 purpose as the sieve, and to give variety. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 199 
 
 No. 501. Jewel Fruitin Gum Paste. 
 
 Divide your paste into as many colours as you intend to 
 represent fruits, as small apples, pears, peaches, apricots, 
 plums, or any kind of vegetables; in short, any object 
 you may fancy. You must have moulds for melons, nuts, 
 walnuts, almonds, cards, figures, and a thousand little 
 things which belong to the jewel comfits; put different 
 essences to the fruit, and form and finish them like the 
 large fruit. If you wish to make a large quantity, you 
 must have twenty or more of those little fruits, or other 
 objects, engraved on a board; by this means you may 
 make them with great rapidity. ‘The Author has found 
 this so great an advantage, that he has engraved an entire 
 collection of different fruit, &c.; they should not be 
 larger than peas. 
 
 No. 502. Small Animals, in fine Paste, 
 
 Are commonly made with double moulds, giving the back 
 and front representations of the objects which are after- 
 wards to be joined together. You must push the whole 
 quantity of fronts you would have, and place them in 
 order on boards, or very smooth plates, that they may 
 dry perfectly straight ; taking care when you push them, 
 to put pieces of fine wire in the legs, &c., as they are 
 apt to break. The next day you push the backs, which 
 you must loosen gently in the mould; put the dry front 
 to it, which touch with some liquid paste inside, that it 
 may stick to the other; take it out, and with a modelling 
 - tool, join it exactly, smoothing it off with a hair pencil, 
 dipped in water; colour them afterwards to your taste. 
 
200° ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 503. Animals in Common Paste. 
 
 Articles made in common paste, should be pushed back 
 and front the same day, as this paste shrinks; when 
 done, put them by on an even board till the next day ;_ 
 they must not be placed in the heat, as they will dry 
 enough without it. To join them, wet a marble slab all 
 over with a sponge, on this place six or eight backs and 
 faces, and let them stand a few minutes; then take one 
 of each and rub it on the damp marble a litile, in order 
 to moisten the paste, which will enable you to stick the | 
 articles together ; finish them as above. — 
 
 No. 504. Figures in Moulds. 
 
 Figures are moulded in the same manner as fruit, and 
 are taken from the mould by moistening a piece of paste, 
 and applying it to the figures, which will stick to the — 
 paste: the shortest and best way is, to strike the mould 
 with a mallet, and the figure will come out directly ; but 
 in this case, the moulds must be bound with iron, or the 
 strokes of the mallet (which must be struck on the same 
 side as the figure) will split ihe board, They are to be 
 joined together, and finished like the animals, 
 
 No. 505. To push in the Mould. 
 
 Every thing made in a hollow mould is said to be pushed, — 
 particularly fillets. Roll your paste to the length of your 
 mould, powder it with starch, which you must keep for 
 that purpose, tied up in a piece of linen, and also powder 
 your mould a little; put in your paste, and with your 
 thumb make it take the impression; then take off the 
 remaining parts with a knife, holding the blade quite iat, 
 that you may not cut the mould. The fillet will come 
 out very easily, by touching it with a piece of paste, 
 which you must moisten, to make it stick, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.. 201. 
 
 No. 506.. Of Fixing Borders. 
 
 Borders, bas-reliefs, figures, indeed every thing in paste, — 
 must stand to dry five or ten minutes before you use 
 them, to prevent spoiling the impression; and they also © 
 shrink in drying, especially those in which there is no 
 sugar. Use isinglass, or light glue, to fix them on paste- 
 board, paper, satin, wood, or gilding; place them on your ~ 
 work in the most ingenious and tasteful way you can.’ 
 
 No. 507. Of modelling in Gum Paste. 
 
 Figures, animals, birds, &c., are without dispute much 
 better when modelled, than those made in a mould, as 
 the modeller can give a grace and attitude to his figure, 
 which it is impossible to obtain by the other mode. It is 
 not so difficult to learn the art of modelling as is sup- 
 posed: accustom’yourself to handle the paste, and how- 
 ever bad the first attempt may be, strive to improve it, 
 by copying from Nature, or a good representation, and 
 with patience and perseverance, you cannot fail of be- 
 coming a good modeller. 
 
 No, 508. To reduce a large Figure by a Scale of 
 
 Squares. 
 
 If you have a drawing of a large figure, which you wish 
 to reduce, you must divide it into small squares, both in 
 length and breadth, and make the same number of 
 squares, of smaller proportion, on another paper, and 
 fill them with the parts of the figure that are in the cor- 
 responding squares of the large figure.—(See plate I. 
 fig. 13.) 1 mention this operation, as it is of great use 
 to the artist, and applicable not only to figures but to or- 
 naments, and to most purposes of a similar nature. 
 K 5 
 
202 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. ‘ 
 
 No. 509. On modelling Figures in Gum Paste. 
 
 Model the limbs by hand, and fix on the head with a 
 wire ; and afterwards dress the figure, making every part 
 of the drapery of its proper colour. ‘To model the hand, 
 you must divide the fingers with a pair of scissors, and 
 mark the nails and joints with a modelling tool: this 
 method will be found much better than pushing the 
 figures in wooden moulds, as is usually done. 
 
 No. 510. On modelling Animals in Gum Paste. 
 
 Make your paste of the natural colour of the animal, 
 (that is, withoutits coat); roll the paste of the necessary 
 length and thickness. Suppose for a sheep: model the 
 end of your paste to the head; give it the attitude ; then 
 model and fix on the legs, and let it dry; when dry, re- 
 pair it neatly with a penknife, and a bit of sand-paper, 
 or a file: then take some very white paste, make it rather 
 thin with water, and cover it thinly all over: with a 
 notched quill, (as in plate II. fig. 10,) form the frizzled 
 appearance of the wool, and comb the animal’s head and 
 body with it, to imitate nature. 
 
 No. 511. Birds in Gum Paste. 
 
 >. 
 Make the body of the bird in the same manner as 
 for animals; have the wings carved on wood, according 
 to the size of the bird, push them, and paint them after- 
 wards. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 203 
 
 Section XXVII.—OF COLOURS FOR 
 CONFECTIONERY. 
 
 No. 512. Of Colours for Confectionery. 
 
 ‘Tue colours used in confectionery are generally harm- 
 less ; for though no one thinks of eating an ornament or 
 figure, yet such colours as vermillion, verdigris, yellow 
 ochre, and many others which are poisonous, should be 
 avoided, if possible. 
 
 No. 513. To choose Cochineal. 
 
 Cochineal should be large, clean, heavy, dry, of a silvery 
 shining colour, and, when bruised, of a dark red. 
 
 No, 514. Of preparing Cochineal. 
 
 Take an ounce of cochineal, pound it well, and make a 
 soft lye with wood-ashes boiled in water; clear it off 
 through a flannel bag; take a pintof it, let it boil up, 
 and put in your cochineal; pound a quarter of an ounce 
 of alum and a quarter of an ounce of cream of tartar, and 
 add them to the cochineal ; and reduce it by boiling, till 
 it becomes of a very dark fine red; if it is for keeping, 
 add pulverized sugar. You may use this colour in every 
 thing, particularly in gum paste, compotes, preserves, 
 jellies, ices, &c. 
 
 No. 515. Carmine. 
 
 Carmine, No. 1, is the best, though the dearest; as the 
 inferior article is generally adulterated with cinnabar; 
 
204 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.. 
 
 but you may easily manufacture carmine as follows: 
 Take a boiler sufficiently large to contain two pails and 
 a half of river water, perfectly clear; put it on the fire, — 
 and when it boils, shake in gently a ene of cochineal, 
 ground in a new coffee mill; stir it with a clean hair 
 pencil, and if the heat be too great, lesson your fire, and 
 throw in a glass of cold water, that the cochineal may 
 not boil over; let it boil for half an hour, then add an 
 alkaline lye, prepared as follows: Boil three-quarters of 
 an ounce of pulverized soda in two quarts of water, for 
 eight or ten minutes; take it off, filter it, put it into your 
 cochineal ; let it boil up five or six times; take off the 
 boiler, place it in a slanting position, that the cochineal 
 may deposit; add to it three-quarters of an ounce of 
 powdered alum, stir it well to dissolve the alum, and let 
 it stand for twenty-five minutes. See if it takes a fine 
 scarlet colour; pour off the liquor very gently into 
 another clean boiler, and do not stir it much, to avoid 
 dividing the deposit; beat up the whites of two eggs in 
 a pint of water, pour it into the colour; stir it well, put 
 the boiler on the fire, till it nearly boils; the whites of 
 the eggs will coagulate, and precipitate with the colouring 
 particles which are to form the carmine. Take the 
 boiler off, and let the carmine settle for twenty- -five 
 minutes; pour off the liquid till you see the carmine at 
 the bottom, which will be like thick milk; pour it into 
 an earthen pan or bowl, strain it thoaged a fine cloth 
 to let the moisture run from it, and drain the carmine. 
 You must strain the liquid several times till it is quite 
 clear; when the carmine is drained, and has a proper 
 consistence, take it up with a silver spoon, lay it on 
 plates to dry in the stove, and, when dry, grind it on 
 the stone. 
 
ITALIAN: CONFECTIONER. - 205-. 
 
 No. 516. Vegetable Carmine. 
 
 2 Ib. Brazil-Wood, 2 oz. pulverized Cochineal, 14 oz. | 
 Rock Alum, 11 0z. Sal Ammoniac, 1 oz. Salt, 1 1b. 12 oz. 
 _ Nitric Acid, and 8 oz. Pewter Filings. 
 
 Divide the alum into four parts, and boil the Brazil- 
 wood in eight pints of water, with the pulverized cochi- 
 neal tied in a piece of cloth ; when reduced to half, take 
 it from the fire, put into it one of your parcels of alum ; 
 strain the decoction through a cloth, into a pan; put back 
 the chips on the fire with the same quantity of water: 
 reduce it as at first; strain it off, and repeat the same 
 four times, putting one part of the alum each time. At 
 the last boiling, add one quarter of an ounce of sal am- 
 moniac, and put the whole together into a pan, keeping 
 it warm. Put your nitric acid into a long-necked bottle, 
 in which, on the previous evening, should have been 
 dissolved one ounce of salt, and ounce of sal ammoniac ; 
 place it in a pan full of water; fix it so as not to move; 
 warm the water more than lukewarm, and put in your 
 pewter filings by small quantities, and continue this era- 
 dually as you see it dissolve. When the whole is dis- 
 solved, pour it into the decoction, mix it well, strain it 
 through a cloth, and let it stand for twenty-four hours ; 
 then- pour off the yellow water till you come to the 
 colour; fill up your pan with clean water, and repeat this 
 morning and evening for eight days, when you will find 
 the water quite clear, leaving no salt or acid in the 
 colour. Keep it in a pot for use, always having some 
 clean water on it to preserve it in a liquid state. 
 
 No. 517. | Gamboge. 
 
 This is a gum, and must be dissolved in cold, or luke- 
 warm water, to colour gum paste. In large quantities, it 
 would act as an emetic and cathartic. 
 
206 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 No. 518. Saffron 
 
 Must be infused in warm water; it should be chosen 
 very dry and soft, in long shreds of a fine red colour, 
 and of a pleasant balsamic taste: it is a good sto- 
 machic. : iW 
 
 No. 519. Sap Green. 
 
 This is prepared from the fruit of the buckthorn; it 
 is in a hard paste, and must be dissolved in water for 
 use, to paint gum paste; it is not good to eat in large 
 quantities. 
 
 No. 520. Spinach G'reen. 
 
 Take the necessary quantity of spinach, pound it well, 
 and squeeze the juice through a cloth; put it ina pan, 
 on a strong fire, stir it with a spoon, and as soon as you 
 see it look curdy take it off the fire, and drain the 
 liquor through a silk sieve; what remains on the sieve 
 will be the colour. 
 
 No. 021. Ivory Black 
 
 Is made with ivory cut in small pieces, and calcined in 
 the fire in a covered pot or crucible, till it ceases smoak- 
 ing: it is only used to paint gum paste. 
 
 No. 522. Prussian Blue. 
 
 Prussian blue is to be preferred by the confectioner, 
 though it must be used sparingly: the turnsole and 
 indigo afford a bad colour. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 207 
 
 No. 523. Vermillion and Cinnabar. 
 
 Are two different shades of a lively red colour; they are 
 equally dangerous, and should never be used in confec- 
 tionery unless absolutely indispensable. 
 
 No. 524. Bol Ammoniac 
 
 Is of a reddish colour, something like cinnamon, and 
 used for gilding (see 529), or to paint gum paste, as well 
 as brown umber, and bistre. 
 
 No. 525. Of using Colours. 
 
 The colours just mentioned are those used to paint gum 
 paste; they are ground on a marble slab, and are 
 moistened with water, and a little gum arabic dissolved 
 and strained through a cloth, with a pinch of fine pow- 
 dered sugar, or sugar candy ; the gum is to fix the colour, 
 and the sugar to make it shine; if you have no gum 
 you may use isinglass, but then the colour must be warm. 
 
 No. 526. Colours good to eat. 
 
 The colours fit to eat are cochineal, carmine diluted, 
 saffron, spinach green, Prussian blue, and colours made 
 with chocolate and caramel; caramel should be diluted 
 with a little water, as it goes farther than the dry powder, 
 yet in some cases it must be used dry, as in the royal 
 iceing, and in articles for the small oven: saffron must 
 be infused in hot water, consequently you must put the 
 _mecessary quantity to your sugar a moment before it is 
 done ; it will require a few minutes more boiling, as the 
 saffron will lessen the degree of heat; spinach green is 
 to be used to colour opaque bodies; such as are trans- 
 parent must be coloured with a little Prussian blue, mixed 
 
208 ITALIAN ‘CONFECTIONER, 
 
 with yellow; if blue alone be wanted, it must be ground _ 
 with a little water, taking care to use but a small quan-_ 
 tity of it; browns may be made of chocolate, a strong 
 decoction of coffee, or caramel burnt and dissolved in ~ 
 water ; the violeé colour is made with red and blue; 
 orange with saffron and red; and the green with yellow — - 
 and blue. 
 
 Section XXVIIIT.—-OF VARNISHING AND 
 GILDING. 
 
 No. 527. Varnish for Gum Paste. 
 
 THREE-QUARTERS Of a pound of gum arabic, or Senegal, 
 dissolved in warm water ; beat up the whites of six eggs, 
 throw them into a sieve to receive their oil, and mix it 
 with the gum ; take three-quarters of a pound of fine 
 sugar, clarify it, and boil it to a blow; take it from the 
 fire, put in a glass of spirits of wine, and when cold, mix 
 the whole and bottle it for use; if too thick when 
 wanted, add a little spirits of wine. This varnish is per- 
 fectly harmless. 
 
 No. 028. . Of gilding Gum Paste. 
 
 This department is so extensive, that it would be impos- 
 sible to describe the great variety of articles that are gilt, 
 and the mode of gilding them; we shall therefore give 
 some general directions, which will be quite sufficient to 
 enable every confectioner to gild the different articles for 
 which he may have occasicn, and will enable him to imi- 
 tate, successfully, every thing made in bronze, porcelain, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 209: 
 
 wood, or pasteboard, and a great variety of other little 
 articles made for presents to young persons, for pieces 
 montées, ornaments and embellishments of the table. 
 —(See Decoration, No. 539.) The piece you mean to 
 gild must be previously prepared and polished—if in- 
 tended to be eaten, prepare it as follows: Take gum 
 arabic, dissolved, and strained very clean; grind it with 
 nearly an equal quantity of white sugar candy, it must 
 be rather stiff, spread it with a pencil, rather hard, on 
 the parts you wish to gild; when dry, breathe on the 
 part, and apply the gold leaf; when this has dried, take 
 off the gold that has not fixed, with a fine hair pencil, 
 and your gilding will be bright. 
 
 No. 529. Burnished Gilding. 
 
 Take about the size of a nut of bol ammoniac, sugar 
 candy about the size of your thumb, grind them together 
 dry, beat up the white of an egg, and throw it on a sieve 
 to receive its oil, which you must use to grind it again; 
 put a thin coat on the article you mean to gild, but do 
 not put on your gold till the egg is perfectly dry; when 
 you put on the gold leaf wet the part with cold water. 
 
 No. 530. Oil Gilding. 
 
 Put a light coat of isinglass on your gum paste ; when 
 dry, see that it has taken equally, if not, give it another 
 coat; when perfectly dried, take some prepared linseed 
 oil, lay it on equally and light with a pencil rather blunt ; 
 _ dry it till it sticks to your fingers when you touch it: 
 apply your gold, and fill the hollows with the broken and 
 waste parts of it; rub it with a dry pencil to make it 
 take equally, and become uniformly brilliant. The time 
 necessary for drying it varies very much, according to 
 
210 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the goodness of the oil, the season, and the heat of the 
 room: sometimes six hours are sufficient, but it some- 
 times requires twelve hours. 
 
 No. 531. Method of preparing Linseed Oil for Size. 
 
 Colourmen in general sell the prepared linseed oil; yet 
 it is convenient to know the preparation of it. Pour 
 some linseed oil into a new glazed pan, double the size 
 of its contents, put it on a moderate fire, just sufficient 
 to make it boil slowly: add two ounces of litharge, tied 
 up in a cloth, and a dozen cloves of garlic, picked ; let it 
 boil for four or six hours; you will know when it is done 
 enough, if on dipping a straw in it, and holding it up, 
 you see the oil drop clear, and of a fine gold colour, but 
 thick; take great care not to let it boil over, as it is very 
 inflammable. 
 
 Section XXIX.—OF MOULD MAKING, 
 MOULDING, AND MODELLING 
 IN WAX. 
 
 No. 5382. Of Mould making. 
 
 Tue art of moulding and counter moulding is one of 
 considerable utility, as by means of it we obtain, with 
 ease, moulds that it would have been very difficult and 
 expensive to engrave. By the practice of this art, how- 
 ever, we have only to procure a good cast of any object 
 we approve, and from this we are enabled to form our 
 own mould at a very trifling expense. You must proceed 
 as follows: Almost all the small figures, or animals, 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. ' OF 
 
 made in France or Germany, are executed in common 
 paste, and consequently liable to take the damp. Put 
 the figures into a pasteboard or deal box, between two 
 towels, or other linen; place them in a cellar for eight 
 days; if made of very common paste, three days will be 
 sufficient; they will easily part in two with the blade of a 
 knife; then they may be moulded, as will be seen in No. 
 036. 
 
 These figures are generally put together with light 
 paste, moistened with water: but whatever the cement 
 may be, that part of the figure where it is joined is the 
 weakest; consequently, by putting them in a warm stove, 
 or in an oven, the great dryness which takes place will 
 open your figures in two parts; if they are made of fine 
 sugar, you must have two figures alike, placing the back 
 of one to the face of the other on wet linen; you can 
 easily fit them together afterwards. Place them on a 
 marble to receive the composition, and if your mould is 
 in plaster, you must put some prepared linseed oil on it 
 that the sugar may not melt. 
 
 No. 533. Stucco Moulds. 
 
 Prepare the pieces you intend to mould, as for the sul- 
 phur (see the following article); have slips of glass of 
 the length and breadth of your moulds, place them to 
 form a frame for it, and take some fine plaster, wetting it 
 with water in which you have melted some glue and 
 salt; pour this on your paste, and strike the table a little 
 to make it fall into every hollow, and to preventits blow- 
 ing. ‘This mould will become very hard, and more solid 
 than the sulphur mould; the slips of glass are used to 
 prevent the knife from cutting the mould; the glue 
 hardens the plaster, and forms the stucco, and the salt 
 makes it take quickly ; but however well they are made, 
 they are never equal to wooden moulds. 
 
2123 _ ITALIAN CONFECTIONER.- 
 
 No. 534. (Sulphur Moulds. 
 
 Such articles as are in two pieces may be moulded in, — 
 
 different compositions; the thing to be moulded must be 
 fixed on a marble or glass table, very dry, and: surrounded 
 with a piece of pasteboard, to prevent it from running 
 over, and to give the mould the form of a long square; 
 prepare pieces of bent wire the length of your mould, 
 which being placed in directly you put your composition, 
 will strengthen it. Oil lightly the articles you intend to 
 mould, with a hair pencil; put some sulphur in a glazed 
 earthen pipkin, sufficient to cover your article three- 
 eighths of an inch, and melt it on the fire; when it is 
 melted and clear, and begins to thicken by the heat, 
 take it from the fire, and add to it half its weight of 
 pounded slate, brick, marble, iron, or brass filings, which 
 must have been pounded and sifted through a silk sieve ; 
 mix, and stir it with a stick ; and when it is well mixed, 
 and smooth, pour it into your mould, not over the paste, 
 
 but by the side of it, and the sulphur will find its level | 
 
 softly without blowing; when you see it covered lay on 
 your wires, put a little more over them; if you wish 
 them stronger, put some plaster, and take off the mould 
 with the blade of a knife; should anything stick fast in 
 them, put them to soak in cold water. 
 
 No. 535.  Leaden Moulds. 
 
 Leaden or pewter moulds are used to run grained sugar 
 into, and for caramel and ices in fruit shapes. Model 
 the article you intend to mould, either in clay or wax 
 (see Modelling in Wax, No. 537); or if you have cut 
 in wood, take an exact mould of it in plaster, as the 
 leaden mould is to be, in two or more parts, that it may 
 deliver well; when exactly prepared, it will be necessary 
 
 | 
 af 
 , 
 
* 
 
 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. ‘213 
 
 to make another mould from it: oil your ‘mould, that 
 the plaster may not stick to it. Each division of the 
 mould should be moulded in two other parts; these aré 
 to be given to the founder to be cast in metal. The 
 mould as it€omes from the founders is very rough, and 
 particles of sand are fixed in it, especially if the cast be 
 common; it must, therefore, be put in a pan with two- 
 thirds of aqua-fortis, and one-third of water, to pickle it ; 
 wash it clean, and with files and cutting tools chase or 
 repair it like the model; in this mould, when thus pre- 
 pared, you run lead, or pewter, having left an opening to 
 receive it; the mould must be heated, that the metal 
 may run smoothly in every part of the hollow: open the 
 mould, take out the cast, join the two parts together 
 neatly, and finish them with a file, as directed for the 
 first mould made in plaster. You may have by this 
 process as many moulds as you please, at a trifling 
 expense. 
 
 No. 536. Plaster Moulds. 
 
 Take the vase, figure, &c. you intend to mould, whether 
 in wood or any other composition, and according to its 
 form prepare to make your mould in two or four parts 
 or divisions, with a view to its delivering well; put round 
 each of these divisions a fillet or wall of pipe-clay, to 
 retain the liquid plaster, and prevent it from running 
 over ; run some plaster in it, about two inches thick ; 
 when it is set, which you will know by its being hot, take 
 that piece or division off, repair it neatly, and with a knife 
 
 cut notches in the edges, that the parts may fit closely 
 
 when joined; oil it with a hair-pencil, and put it again 
 on the object with pipe-clay ; repeat the operation, with 
 another division; you will leave then one-half of your 
 mould formed in two pieces. Repair and cut notches in 
 
214 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the fresh quarter, that the parts may fit each other, and 
 be firm: make the other two divisions in the same man- 
 ner. You will then have the whole of your mould in four 
 pieces, which you must dry in the stove. When dry, — 
 you may harden it by rubbing some linseed oil on it—see 
 No, 531; dry it afterwards again in the oven, and oil and 
 dry it several times, as before.—These moulds will serve 
 for rock sugar.—(See No. 209.) 
 
 No. 537. Modelling in Waa. 
 
 Put into a new pipkin six ounces of rosin, one pound of 
 bees’-wax, two ounces of lard, and four ounces of flour; 
 colour it with vermillion; stir the whole on a gentle fire, 
 and when melted and well mixed, pour it into a paper 
 case, to use it for modelling figures, &c. 
 
 No. 538. Another Modelling Waz, Flesh-coloured. 
 
 - Scrape a quantity of virgin wax into a new pipkin, and 
 melt it by placing the pipkin in hot water, that it may not 
 soil; add more or less Venice turpentine, a little mag- 
 nesia in powder, and a little vermillion, according to the 
 _ shade of colour which you require. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 215 
 
 Section XXX.—OF DECORATION, OF WORKS 
 IN PASTEBOARD, GOLD AND SILVER 
 ~ PAPER-FOIL, &c. &c. 
 
 No, 539, Of Decoration. 
 
 Tue decoration of the table regards chiefly the arrange- 
 ment of the Dessert, which should consist of Assitettes 
 Montées, baskets of fruit and flowers, a variety of bon- 
 bons, porcelain figures, glass, &c. which should all be 
 arranged with taste and elegance. The art of decoration 
 was formerly carried to a great extent in France, im- 
 mense sums were expended upon it, and many of the 
 first artists in the different departments were employed ; 
 the whole, when completed, had the appearance of en- 
 chantment. ‘The author is proud to enumerate among 
 his friends, Messrs. Monprivé, Leccelan, and Cocard, 
 who have executed decorations and embellishments for the 
 
 table, which will probably never be surpassed. But this 
 ~ ornamental style of arranging the dessert is not much used 
 in England, a few Assiettes Montées only being employed © 
 to decorate the table. Farewell, then, fine groupes, alle- 
 gorical subjects, trophies, country sports, landscapes, and 
 mythological emblems! Till better times shall arrive, we 
 must content ourselves with the simple Assiettes Montées: 
 the construction of which, and the materials composing 
 them, we shall describe. 
 
 No. 540. To make Pasteboard. 
 
 All sorts of pasteboard may be had ready made; but for 
 the confectioner’s use, it may be readily manufactured 
 _ with sheets of paper. Take fine white paper, not stiff- 
 ened, (common paper will do for the inside,) and place 
 
216 | ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 the sheet on a board, using some of the paste described — 
 in No. 541, and making it thin with water, so as to use 
 it like oil paint: then spread your pasteon a sheet of © 
 white paper with a large brush, put over it another sheet — 
 of coarser paper, and a second or third, according to the 
 strength you mean to give it, with a layer of paste be- 
 tween each sheet, and cover the top one with a sheet of 
 fine paper. You should have pasteboards of every thick- 
 ness, some even with fifteen sheets of paper, as some 
 must be thin enough to turn, and others thick, to form 
 the bottoms of your work. Press the sheets till the over= — 
 plus of the paste is forced out, screw down the press and — 
 leave them for two days, till equally moistened through= — 
 out; then hang them up with wire hooks, in any airy 
 place, neither in the heat nor in the sun, and let them 
 dry gradually; when perfectly dried, they may be po- — 
 lished by a burnisher of flint, set in a long handle and ~ 
 fixed to the ceiling, the paper being placed on a polished © 
 stone table; if you cannot have a table, or regular bur- — 
 nisher, the rib of an ox, or the bottom of a glass bottle, | 
 will answer the same purpose. 
 
 No. 541: Paste to make Pasteboard. 
 
 Take three or four ounces of rock alum, pound and melt — 
 it in six pints of water, and moisten a pound of flour ~ 
 with that water; strain it through a sieve, that no lumps ~ 
 may remain; put it on the fire, stir it with a spaddle, and — 
 when thick and done enough, put it in a pan for use. A 
 skin will form on the paste, and when you want to use it, — 
 do not break that skin, or use any of it, but raise it gently, ' 
 and take the paste from under it, as the skin will preserve — 
 the paste fora long time. Starch paste is made in the 
 same way, using starch instead of flour. 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER,., 217 
 
 No. 042. Paste for Joining Pasteboard. 
 
 Many pastes are used to join pasteboard ; sometimes the 
 above, isinglass, glue, or gum paste, which is composed 
 of gum Senegal, melted thick with flour, and a few cloves 
 of garlic. The older gum paste is, the stronger it gets: 
 if the crust formed round the pots is preserved and mixed 
 with the fresh paste, it is said to increase its strength 
 greatly. 
 
 No. 543. Silver Paper. 
 
 The most ready manner of making silver paper is. with 
 starch paste: to render it more easy to fix on the silver 
 leaf, cut the paper in strips, the size of the silver book; 
 put your paste, with great care, very even, with a hair 
 pencil on the paper, open the book, and present the silver 
 leaf to.it, which will instantly take it up; put another near 
 it, and so on to the end of the strip; then hang it up to 
 dry ; when dry, rub it with cotton, to take off the parts 
 which have not stuck ; add a bit of paste, and some silver- 
 leaf, to mend those parts which may have escaped: when 
 the silver is fixed all over, and dry, put a slight layer of 
 the same paste on it, to prevent its discolouring: without 
 this precaution, the air would spot and change its colour 
 and make it gray, so that it would be unfit for use: this 
 paper is used to make borders, &c. for the Assvettes 
 Montées. 
 
 No. 544. Gold Paper. 
 
 Dead gold is made in the same manner as the preceding, 
 
 _ adding a little saffron to the paste. If you want gold 
 
 papers of a large size, you must have a gilder’s cushion 
 
 covered with leather, which is used to spread and cut the 
 
 gold-on with a straight and sharp knife. The gold is taken 
 
 off with a brush made of squirrel’s hair, broad and flat: 
 L 
 
218 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 gilders use this to apply the gold to the paper. You 
 must not work where there is any current of air, as the 
 gold would be rumpled, and rendered of no use. 
 
 _ Burnished Gold Paper requires another preparation. 
 Apply the size (see No. 549) very even with a pencil (it 
 is common to: give it two coats of size); let it dry, and 
 pin it at the corners on a piece of board the size of your 
 paper; have near you a glass of clean water, wet the 
 paper with a hair pencil, to the size of a gold leaf, apply 
 it directly, and continue the same till you have gilt your 
 sheet of paper. When perfectly dry, rub it with a piece 
 of cotton, to take off the edges, or overplus gold; if any 
 place has not taken, you must wet it, and apply another 
 piece of gold; let it dry, and take it from the board to 
 burnish it. For this purpose, have a square piece of 
 polished marble, lay your paper on it, and with a bur- 
 nishing tool, a square stone flint, or agate, about two 
 inches wide, burnish it, by holding, in both your hands, 
 the long handle, which should reach to your right shoul- 
 » der, and rubbing it backwards and forwards upon the 
 
 paper. 
 
 No. 545. Plate, or Size, for Burnished Paper. 
 
 Three drachms of Sanguine Stone, 1 1b. of Bol Ammoniac, 
 3 drachms of Black Lead, 3 drachms of Spermacett. 
 
 Grind each of these articles separately, and put them all 
 into a new pipkin on a genile fire, with a little water to 
 melt, and mix them well; it should be of the thickness of 
 pipeclay, soft, without being too stiff; to keep it fit for 
 use, it must stand covered with water. When you intend 
 to use it, make a size with cuttings of parchment, which 
 you must boil in water till it is all dissolved like isinglass 
 for jelly.—(See Clarification of Isinglass.) When done, 
 strain it through a sieve, let it cool, and it will be like a 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONERs 219 
 
 jelly. Moisten as much of the above mixture with it as 
 you want, and lay it on the article you intend to burnish, 
 as for gold paper.—(See No. 544.) 
 
 No. 546. Columns in Wood, gilt. 
 
 All articles, whether in gum paste, alabaster, plaster, or 
 paper, are gilt by the same process; but those objects 
 which are turned in wood, made of paste, of pasteboard, 
 or of plaster, or are of a porous nature, require particular 
 preparation. Take a wooden column, fix it with a pin 
 or tack to a small bit of wood, by which you can hold it, 
 and at the same time keep it straight ; grind some whiten- 
 ing in your parchment size, and give the column three 
 successive layers of it with a fine brush, taking care to dry 
 each layer well ; when perfectly dry, repair with a file the 
 contour of your pillar, and rub it with a polishing paper, 
 as if you meant to leave it white; when finished, give it 
 a layer or two of your burnishing plate, or size; dry it, 
 and apply your gold, as directed above. Burnish the 
 pillar with a crooked agate, in the form ofa hog’s tooth, 
 which you may buy of various sizes; you must not begin” 
 to burnish till the pillar is perfectly dry. The parts you 
 wish to be dead, you must not touch with the burnisher 
 put over them, with a pencil, some of the parchment size, 
 very lightly. It is common to use parchment or kid 
 leather to make size, because isinglass is too dear, though 
 oftener at hand than parchment. 
 
 No. 547. Gilding in Oil. 
 
 To gild in oil, see No. 530. This mode is quicker than 
 
 burnishing, and is naturally brilliant ; but it does not last 
 
 like the burnished gold, having neither its splendour nor 
 
 beauty; yet it is often used in caryatides, and for bas- 
 L 2 
 
220 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 reliefs in pastes. It has a good effect when mixed with 
 other parts that are burnished. The colour of the gold 
 may likewise be varied: the gold-beaters make some gold 
 of a lemon colour, some darker, green red, and white, 
 according tothe metals they put into the crucible. 
 
 No. 548. Borders in Gold and Silver Paper. 
 
 Borders are strips of paper cut with engraving tools (see 
 No. 555), in different sizes, according to a drawing. 
 Take your tool, commonly six inches in length, and 
 place it on a block in which is a hollow to receive it, and 
 ascrew to tighten it at pleasure, and to fix it.—(See 
 plate II. fig. 14.) You must also have a leaden mallet, 
 and be provided with some dozens of them, run ina 
 mould made for that purpose, leaving a hole in the centre 
 to receive the handle, which must be of beech, and 
 elastic, made of part of a branch with the bark on it. 
 Place the gold or silver paper, on the tool, the gilt side 
 next to it, and strike it hard with the leaden hammer till 
 it has entered the engraving, and is well cut out; take it 
 off, and continue thus to the end of your border. These 
 borders are used to ornament assiettes montées, fixing 
 them on with gum.—(See Ornaments, No. 551.) 
 
 No. 549. English Borders. 
 
 ‘English borders are made solid, that is, they are not 
 pierced in any part, and in consequence cannot be turned 
 round a medallion, or an oval; they are, however, very 
 useful, and have a pleasing effect ; they are preferable to 
 the French borders, on account of the beauty of the gold, 
 which is obtained by a mixture of parts of copper with 
 the gold, a process not known to the French. They are 
 made by means of two little wheels (roulettes) held in 
 the draw-bench ; one of them (an engraved one) in steel, 
 
ATALIAN CONFECTIONER, 221 
 
 the other in brass, which takes the counter-impression 
 by the pressure of the draw-bench, on being screwed 
 tight, and the wheel turned. The first of these borders 
 brought to France by an Englishman, gave the author 
 an idea of the machine with which they were made, 
 and in eight days afterwards he made some borders, 
 the only difference in which was the colour of the gold, 
 which was much inferior to the English, for the reason 
 just stated. | 
 
 Strips of paper must be cut to the breadth of the 
 wheels; by putting one end of the paper to the wheel, 
 and turning the handle, it draws it in, and the paper 
 takes the impression: this is done very quickly, so that 
 you may make as many borders in a day as will serve for 
 a year. 
 
 No. 550. Of Foil in Copper and Pewter. 
 
 Copper foil cari only be fixed to pasteboard by first put- 
 ting iton paper. Take some dissolved isinglass, spread it 
 on the back of a sheet of foil, and apply a sheet of silver 
 paper of the same size; when dry, you may afterwards 
 stick it on any thing you please. Pewter foil will easily 
 stick on any thing, and wiih any paste. Foil may be co- 
 loured with a light size of isinglass, stained with any 
 colour you please, either yellow, green, &c. (see colours) ; 
 but for this you must have a sheet of fine metal flattened 
 and polished, or pewter beat out like gold and silver leaf, 
 as on their brilliancy and polish depends their beauty when 
 you colour them. To colour them, you must have your 
 isinglass of a proper heat, and ready coloured, in a square 
 dish; lay the foil gently on it, and afterwards suspend in 
 to dry, by means of a crooked wire, on a piece of twine 
 or cord tied across the room to receive it. 
 
 ae 
 
oe ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 ‘No. 551. Of the Construction of an Assiette Montée.' 
 
 Taste, and a knowledge of drawing, are requisite to form 
 this article ; a temple, for instance, must be made conform- 
 ably to the rules of architecture, as a bad, heavy, mas- 
 sive structure would not answer the purpose; it should 
 be light and elegant, calculated to display, to the best ad- 
 vantage, the bon-bons of various kinds that are strewed 
 upon it. ‘ 
 
 The author intended to have given drawings of several 
 ornaments of this description, which he has designed and 
 executed; but was deterred from giving more than one, 
 by the great expense of engraving.—(See plate II. 
 Fig. 19.) 
 
 Assiettes Montées may be made of pasteboard, or of 
 wire-work, or partly of both; you must have some wire 
 of different sizes, according to the solidity of the article 
 you intend to make ; Risten one end to a hook, and with 
 a piece of wood to the other end, pull it tight to straighten 
 it. Cut it in lengths of about three feet, for use. Take 
 some silver paper, cut it in strips of about a quarter of an 
 inch wide, and cover the wire uniformly with them, having 
 some flour paste, and pasting the paper with it; twist it 
 round the wire evenly, and rub a little paste overit to keep 
 it fixed. When you have determined on the object you 
 would make, take as many of these wires as you want, 
 bind them together with binding wire, which must be thin, 
 and should have been heated, to make it more pliable, 
 and then turn your main wires on pieces of wood, to form 
 circles, garlands, wreaths, &c. : you must have a correct 
 drawing to work from; the lengths must be calculated, 
 and the wires kept as much as possible in one piece; ex- 
 perience will shew you the necessity of being exact in 
 your measures.. When your frame-work is formed, tie 
 the parts together with binding wire ; by the help of a pair 
 
 es a ee ee se 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONERs 223 
 
 of plyers, twist it tight, conceal the ends, and cut them off: 
 when the wire frame-work is thus put together, whiten it 
 with whitening and size, if it is to be in silver paper or 
 gum paste ; if to be gold, you must colour it yellow, and 
 take care to put size to the colour. To fix the paper, 
 whether mosaic or gilt paper, satin or gauze, dip your pen- 
 cil in dissolved gum, and touch the part you mean to 
 cover, taking care first to fold the paper to the required 
 shape; paste a small gold fillet over the joints, to conceal 
 them: you must be extremely neat and clean in this 
 work, as neither paste nor joints should be visible; it must © 
 look, when finished, as of a single piece, and as if it had. 
 just come from the silversmith’s or jeweller’s hands. 
 
 No. 552. Works in Pasteboard. 
 
 Pasteboard work demands as much exactness as wire 
 work, You must have a square board larger than the 
 sheet of pasteboard, an iron ruler as long as the board, 
 perfectly true, and rather heavy; a square, proportioned 
 to the ruler, and a tracer, a sort of double-edged knife, 
 the blade of which is fixed tothe centreof the handle, which 
 is kept pointed like a pencil. Put your sheet of paste- 
 board on the training board, square it by cutting off the 
 edges, mark with the compass the lines where it is to be 
 cut, lay the ruler on it, and cut it into strips according to 
 measure. ‘To use these strips, or bands, turn them band 
 pieces of wood, to make them take the shape you wish $ 
 join the extremities with a slip of paper, or vellum, or you 
 may, if you please, cut the strips longer, and with asharp 
 _ knife pare them thin at each end, and join them by wrap- 
 ping one end over the other. Nowcut out a piece of paste- 
 board to form the bottom or pedestal, fix it into the circle 
 you have made, add mouldings and borders, according to 
 
224 ATALIAN CONFECTIONER,. 
 
 your drawing, as in plate II. fig. 19; when put together, 
 cover the projecting parts with extremely thin gilt paper ; 
 use stronger paper for the flat parts of the work, to receive 
 the borders, bas-reliefs, and other ornaments. 
 
 If you wish to use looking-glass, get some thin German 
 glass, cover it at the back with silver paper, by laying 
 gum on the edges of the glass (not on the quicksilver, as 
 it would come off); a small quantity on the edges will be 
 sufficient, as the gilt paper border will make it steady.— 
 When the several parts of your work are finished, you 
 must fix the whole together with binding wire very neatly, 
 concealing the joints with small ornaments, using as much 
 dexterity and cleverness as possible. 
 
 The difficulty of giving intelligible descriptions of mi- 
 nute operations of this nature is so obvious, that the 
 reader, it is hoped, will make allowances, if the author 
 has not succeeded in conveying his ideas so clearly as he 
 could wish, not only upon this, but several similar occa- 
 sions. 
 
 No. 553. Paste made of Pasteboard, or Paper. 
 
 Sometimes it happens in decorating the table, that you 
 are in want of a vase, or cassoleite, in pasteboard, Take 
 the impression from any mould you may have, or imitate 
 a figure, trunk of a tree, &c. Pasteboard paste will be 
 useful for this purpose, and the author recommends the 
 following, which he has used with success in Paris for se- 
 veral years, to make a great variety of articles, both fanci- 
 ful, and imitations of nature, such as are sold for new year’s 
 gifts in every shop in that capital, and to contain bon- 
 bons, &c. 
 
 Take some paper shavings, very white, which you may 
 buy ata book-binder’s, and boil them in water till reduced 
 to a paste; let it cool, and when cold enough, press out 
 the water with your hands, put it ina mortar, and pound 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER, 229. 
 
 it perfectly, then into a glazed pipkin, with a piece’ 
 about the size of your thumb of gum Senegal, dissolved in 
 water very thick ; put it on the fire, stir it well till it has 
 taken the gum and is thick; let it cool, make it of the con- 
 sistence of gum paste with flour; mould your article with 
 it, take it off and let it dry; if it is to be white, give it a 
 coat of parchment, size, and whitening, mixed about the 
 thickness of oil paint ; paint and gild it as you think pro- 
 per, in the same way as wood, taking care to clean and 
 polish it first; if you wish to imitate black japan, take 
 ivory black, and the varnish of gum-lac, with spirits of 
 wine, give it ten coats of colour, and polish each coat, 
 beginning with glass paper, and finishing with tripoly, 
 reduced to an impalpable powder. 
 
 No. 504. Spun Glass. 
 
 As the confectioner may not, at all times, be able to pro- 
 cure spun glass, the following method of making it may 
 be found useful: Puta quantity of wood-ashes into a pan, 
 and form akind of flooring in it with large pieces of char- 
 coal placed close to each other ; raise on each side a sort 
 of wall, distant about four inches, and cover the top like 
 a vault with large charcoal placed across, so as to form 
 somewhat of a square oven, open at each end. Set fire 
 to the charcoal, make it burn fiercely, letting it catch on 
 all sides, and take a piece of glass, as the stopper of a de- 
 canter, the stem of a wine glass, or any other broken glass, 
 and put it in the middle of the fire; your assistant must 
 have a pair of tongs ready to catch it at the moment it 
 _ begins to run, while you take hold of the other end with 
 another pair of tongs, and draw the glass to you, twisting 
 it as you draw it: you will thus have a twisted spun glass, 
 round and even ; the thickness depends on the manner in 
 
 L 5 
 
226 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 which you draw it—if slowly, it will be thick; if quick, it 
 
 will be fine; you may likewise twist it in the flame of a 
 candle; fix it to your ornaments with isinglass. It may 
 be made coloured with coloured glass. If you have a 
 blow-pipe you may form tubes, figures, animals, &c., but 
 
 this requires dexterity. Some use an oil drawn from, the 
 
 marrow of horses, which gives sufficient heat to blow 
 
 bottles, vases, &c. 
 
 Section XXXL—ENGRAVING ON IRON AND 
 
 ‘STEEL. 
 
 No. 555.—Zo make Tools for Cutting Borders. 
 
 Eneravine on iron and steel is easier than engraving on 
 wood, as most of the parts may be punched, which, in 
 wood, must be cut out. To make tools fit to cut out 
 borders for gilt paper, you must forge a piece of iron, 
 about six inches in length, and one inch and a half in 
 width, as thick as the breadth of the border you wish to 
 make, because the engraving is to be made _ on its edge; 
 when forged, smooth and polish it with a very fine file, 
 tracing on it, with a steel graver, the lines by which you 
 are to be guided in your work. Your punch must be 
 made of a piece of steel, representing, in relief, the sec- 
 tion of the border, and must be engraved with gravers 
 and riflers of different forms and sizes; it must then be 
 ‘tempered, by putting the engraved end into a brazier 
 ‘with charcoal; when you see the opposite end, which is 
 ‘out of the as become of a gold, or yellow botolly’ rian 
 draw it, and dip it in water, urine, tallow, or grease ;—= 
 the author uses water. 
 
 a oe 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 227 
 
 Having thus obtained a single punch, you must now 
 proceed to make another, which is to be double pointed, 
 in order to repeat the engraving and make the design 
 correct. To make it, you must have a piece of untem- 
 pered steel, - flat, like a die; take the single tool, tem- 
 pered, and with a hammer strike it into the new piece of 
 steel; strike on it two impressions close to each other, to 
 form a double design, both: being equally deep; then ~ 
 temper the square piece ; and have ready another punch 
 prepared of double the breadth of the design, not tem- 
 pered (which of course is not so hard) ; place thisupon 
 the tempered dye which contains the double design, and 
 by striking repeated small blows with the hammer, you 
 will cause it to take the form and design, in relief, of the 
 hollows to which it is applied; this double punch must 
 be repaired with a fine file, like the first, and tempered 
 in the same way ; by this means you may make all sorts 
 of small tools, some for indenting the borders, single or 
 double; others to make leaves, the hearts of flowers, 
 or any other ornament. 
 
 The punches being made and tempered, place the 
 tool which you have prepared and traced to be engraved, 
 on a work-board of strong wood, fix it straight between 
 two pieces of cast iron, cast on purpose to receive diffe- 
 rent-sized irons; knock in, by repeated little blows of 
 the hammer, the single graver, or punch, and follow it 
 with the double one, that the design may be correct, 
 Continue to strike it till well engraved; polish it with 2 
 fine file; take off with chisels the straight lines of the 
 breadth of the drawing, and polish the hollow with a 
 
 rifler ; take off the surplus of iron from the sides with a 
 - file, and that of the inside with the graver, so that your 
 engraving may be sharp; try if it will cut the paper, 
 you will then see if it wants correcting: if not well 
 made, or the engraving be not deep enough, repair it 
 
228 ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 
 
 accordingly. ‘The most difficult thing is to make the 
 punches, which must be of steel, well tempered, as they 
 are apt to break in working: in this case you must have 
 recourse to your die to make a new punch. The 
 engraving tool, when finished, is used for cutting bor- 
 
 ders.—(See plate II. fig. 14.) 
 
 Section XXXIT.—ENGRAVING ON WOOD. 
 
 No. 556. Engraving on Wood. 
 
 Eneravine on wood is done with gouges, cutting chisels, 
 &c., (see plate Il. fig. 17,) some of which are bent, 
 some straight, some round, and others square. To 
 learn to engrave on wood, you must previously model in 
 clay or wax the object you intend to represent, and 
 finish it completely. From this take an impression in 
 plaster—(See Moulding.) Keep this mould before you 
 as a pattern, and with the larger tools, take off the waste 
 wood, then engrave the parts which are to project. To 
 explain this better, suppose you want a figure: first take 
 off the wood to give the attitude of the body, finish it 
 naked, shew the muscles and the distinctions of the sex ; 
 then engrave the shirt in all the parts of it which are to 
 be seen, the cravat, pantaloons, waistcoat, coat, buttons, 
 &c. &c., all of which must be cut smooth and clean, and 
 be polished, and finished. Time and patience will 
 enable any one to excel in this art. ‘The author has 
 laboured for sixteen years, and has made himself par- 
 ticularly perfect in the figure; and he can assure his 
 readers, that they may succeed in the art of engraving 
 on wood without the assistance of masters, by copying 
 
ITALIAN CONFECTIONER. 229 
 
 good models,-and particularly by accustoming themselves 
 to examine the reverse of objects, and the effect will then 
 be apparent. 
 
 The human figure, as well as animals, must be made 
 in two pieces, the back and the front: to make the parts 
 fit well, you must draw the outline on paper, and then 
 prick this exactly on wood with a pin; turn the paper, 
 and put the pin in the same holes to mark its counterpart. 
 Some engravers fix the piece of wood to the table with an 
 iron holdfast, as carpenters do, and every time they want 
 to turn the mould, they are obliged to take it off, which 
 is very inconvenient, and occasions much loss of time: 
 to remedy this defect the author has constructed a wheel, 
 which he has used with great success ; it is pierced in 
 the centre, and it turns on a spindle, fixed to the table ; 
 the board to be engraved, is fixed in the middle to this 
 wheel with four screws and nuts, according to the size of 
 the wood, the wheel being full of small holes to receive 
 different sizes.—(See plate Il. fig. 16.) You must have 
 tools from the size of a needle to that used by carvers in 
 wood: the wood fittest for engraving is pear-tree, or box, 
 and it must be chosen very dry. The tools of an en- 
 graver are generally long, like those of a carpenter, and 
 consequently must be held in both hands, which is 
 probably the cause that engravings on wood are fre- 
 quently coarse and harsh: to remedy this inconvenience, 
 the author makes his tools about five inches in length, 
 including the handle; he holds the tool in the hollow of 
 the palm of his right hand, and engraves with the 
 greatest ease, and very quickly—the thumb serves as a 
 support and security, and the left hand turns the wheel 
 when needful. 
 
ee 
 
 isn ict a bs lieu 
 
 Et dred ade: paltag es ee 
 CENRSE i Sika. oy fy weer: = “ 
 any : trig a tlie hao wo vi 
 
 ——— ot deste ening 
 
 va te iF 
 
 & ficrg aaa wbstin 
 Ho ti cole of bayiide os yort 
 
 A 
 EN Sad 23 he 
 
 parhe ‘edo1eRII0 fi * 
 
 ts distl¥: id slboea, 
 conv el yonetgae 
 
 f 
 
 t 
 prey 
 es ee 8 t 
 S98 AY 
 
 : Bari — (s 
 
 M 50th 
 eed st) oe 
 
 gs 
 
 foes uaianae, 
 Pieri thy] sone pa sali hia 
 
 f 
 Ae EK OHONS 
 
 arb fi Lae 
 
eis 
 sist cs 
 
 axe! 
 
 apne 
 
 es 
 
> 
 
 ee "ieee 8 |__|f a = 
 
 WW 
 | UI | L 
 l 
 
 | be = Gi) al ‘ 4 
 
 Sra | | I Rng “a 
 He 
 
 sheditpalinn E bers, & C80ld Bond Street, Teak 18 29. 
 
 — 
 
 —— 
 
4 
 
 ag ee 
 
 Rs SP 
 
 “He 
 
 Mt pr mat 
 
ez KN 
 B2Er ae 
 Reece's 
 
 aeeas 
 
 ovat cee ee 
 
 waa 
 
 SN a 
 
 Ed 
 (28 SA ee 
 
 HA : 
 
 Na 
 SS 
 
 ~ Ls 
 
 > 
 ae temas - vey 5 “ae 
 
 ner 
 SSS 
 PU 
 
 inn 
 
 Ti 
 
eget TET 
 
 panne y mes - 
 - 4 ‘ 
 
PAGE 
 Almond Caramel Biscuits . 22 
 Paste * ~~ 136 
 
 Animals, small, in fine paste 199 
 common paste 200 
 Appert, M., his mode of pre- 
 serving fruit without sugar 104 
 Assiette Montée, to make . 222 
 
 Badiane me ° - 189 
 Barley Sugar ‘ au tdd 
 Tablets is sl 
 
 —— Drops . ae | 
 Birds, in gum paste. - 202 
 Biscotini Pistachios . ».16] 
 Almonds . eee 
 Biscuits, Marble . - 139 
 —— Green . ateee | 
 . Patience iy AO 
 Champagne - 147 
 
 Savoy ., meee | 
 
 Sponge . tae © £3 
 
 incases . Mahe | 
 
 of different Tastes 151 
 Brown Bread . 152 
 
 ——— Spanish Bread ib. 
 ——— Geneva - 153 
 —— Chesterfield erin ADs 
 —— Nut ; «; a4 
 ——— General Observations 
 ' : on 5 RD 835 
 —_— Fine Rusks pn 
 = Almond |. ae 0515) 
 ——— Pistachio NE 
 -————  <Aniseed, Wolves’. 
 ; Teeth pe eee 
 ——_ Chesnut ee 8) 
 —— German — «. ib. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Biscurts,Cream . » 159, 
 Another Cream . ib, 
 
 Coffee, ..+ - 160 
 
 mere Chocolate Pian it 
 ——_ Mustacioli » 161 
 Firenze . . 162 
 
 Apple . - 163 
 
 ee: tt ae - 166 
 -———— Fancy . 167 
 
 irs case Hidedadtaacen ial ee 
 ——— Mould Fancy . ib 
 
 Walnut . - 169 
 
 Moss ib. 
 
 Almond ally 170 
 
 Zephyr . » jl 
 
 Cocoa. 174 
 
 Cinnamon Stick ib. 
 
 Cinnamon Blow ib. 
 
 Little Blow . 175 
 
 ———. Wafer . a a 
 
 | Blanc Manger ‘ . 132 
 
 | Bol Ammoniac P . 207 
 
 Bon-Bons”. » 2a 
 different sonia of. 26 . 
 
 Transparent wea. 
 
 Prepared with Li- 
 
 De GINCUTS 9 <4 «ibe 
 
 Borders, of fixing . + 20% 
 
 in Gold & Silver Paper 220 
 
 English. Ee 
 
 Tools for cutting . 226 
 
 Brandy, Fruitin - 123 
 
 Peaches in - 124 
 
 Apricots in « Mm, 
 
 ~ Cherries in « 125 
 Burnished Gilding . + 209 
 
 Green Gagesin . 142 
 
202 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE| PAGE 
 CaxEs, Clear F . 81 | Catechu Seeds e : - 46 
 Rich Plum . » 145 Flavoured , pee 
 Queen : . 146} Chantilly Basket . 4. 2S 
 ees Ltalian ; . 149 | Chesnuts with Sugar rane 
 ——— Almond Hearts - 150 | Chocolate, tomake . . 44 
 Orange Hearts . ib. | ———— Harlequin Pistachios 43 
 Lemon . . 151} —.-. Drops, with Nonpa- 
 Savoy . oS E reils** - 48 
 Almond ; ib. | ———— in Moulds ib, 
 Fine Spongati Ttaltan 155 | Clear Cakes . . eo 8) 
 Another sort of Spon- Cochineal, to choose « 203 G 
 gati - . 156 to prepare wocalh. 
 ——— Rice, with Butter . 157 | Cocoa Nuts . . - 43 
 without Butter — ib. in Sugar og 
 Ginger, with Butter 172 | Coloured Sugars. . 1358 
 without Butter ib. —— Almonds . e136 @ 
 Shrewsbury . 173 | Cotours, for Confectionery 203 — 
 Portugal . . ib. | ——~— to choose Cochineal ib. 
 — Water : as HY «53 of preparing Cochi- 
 Candies . ‘ 6 ; neal . 2 Ca. 
 Canpy, Production of > ab |... Carmmes, eoah 
 Flowers in . ; 7 | ———— Vegetable Carmine 205 
 . Fruit in : . ib. | —————_ Gamboge Bel: 4 
 ~—_—— Meteors . > 9 | ———— Saffron . . 206 
 Novena CITE PES EIN are . ib |——— Sap Green eats 
 - French Ribbonin . 10|——— Spinach Green . ib. 
 ——— Orange ; . ib. | ——— Ivory Black ie 
 +t North’ Pole bgp. | Leb Prussiiin Binge —~s-1b: 
 —. Nosegay in . . 11 | ————- Vermilionand Cin- 
 ——— Liqueur Ringsin . 12 nabar . - 207 
 Hoes etruie . ib. | ——— _ Bol Ammoniac «ib. 
 o——— Harlequin’ . . 13 | ———— of Using . ~~ ib, 
 —— Holland . ib. | ———— good to eat oat 
 *——— Chocolate . . 14 | Columns in Wood, Gilt or are 
 Jelly in 3°" voogb] | Comerts 4 Mh 295 
 Chips in : a Almond rear 
 . Apple Paste in mat 3 in Liqueurs oo 
 Candying of Fruit . ee 5 Almond, with Vanilla ib. 
 Caramel Work t Paes | of various flavours - 98 
 Fruit m°*. rans” Rose Almond ib, 
 Chesnuts in ~° rsa Cinnamon Almond ib. 
 : Orange Quarters in © ib. | ——-~— Egg . + ib. 
 Carmine, to prepare ~ 203 Nut . + 99 
 
 Carmine, Vegetable ; 205 )——+— Pistachios - «99 
 
233 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE PAGE 
 
 Comrits, Cinnamon . 100 | Creams, Orange and Lemon, ~ 
 Angelica . 101 Whipt . . 109 
 Lemon . a~ ab. Strawberry, Whipt ib. 
 ———— Celery ; . ib. | ——— Rose, Whipt ee 
 Cherry . «102 Cuirasseau - 185 
 
 Barberry . e-~b. 
 
 ———-— Caraway . . ib. | Decoration of the Table . 215 
 —in Gum Paste . ib. | Distillation . ‘ . 179 
 — Nonpareils. 103 | Distilled Rose Water 180 
 
 to Colour Nonpareils ib. 
 ComproTeEs . ‘ - 88 
 Green Apricot . ib. 
 Green Almond . ib. 
 Green Gooseberry 89 
 
 ———— Cherry . mans 
 aaa Raspberry s” Hae. 
 — Currant —“tbi 
 
 Ripe Apricot . 90 
 Whole Apricot . ‘ib. 
 
 roam’. ., 7. Rs 
 —- Peach . orb: 
 Pear Be ta 
 a Broiled Pear . 91 
 —— Pear, with wine. ib. 
 —————— Apple . ie | A 
 
 Applein Jelly . 92 
 Stuffed Apple ._ ib. 
 
 —~ Quince . “aaa 
 —- Nut A » as 
 
 Barberry + 93 
 ——_——— Chesnut ee Lis 
 
 Strawberry spina |S 
 Elder-flower ._ ib. 
 ———— Orange Peel . 94 
 
 ———_— Orange . ame < 
 paket Masked . mises BB 
 
 Corks of Bottles, Composition 
 for covering ‘ - 107 
 ‘CREAMS : 4 weseRaC 
 Whipt . eae 
 
 —— Chocolate, Whipt. 108 
 Coffee, Whipt .. ib. 
 Vanilla, Whipt . ib. 
 
 Orange-flower Water 181 
 Waters of all kinds . ib. 
 Drinks, cool, for Balls, Routes, 
 &c.—See Waters. 
 Drops, Liqueur . . di 
 of different shapes . 39 
 Jewel Liqueur nieces 
 
 ——— Barley Sugar. . . 18 
 ——— Poppy 18, 39 
 —— Orange-flower - 36 
 
 Chocolate . 2 5 DS 
 ——. Coffee : epee: | 
 ——- Barberry . gee 1 
 —— Cinnamon . « db, 
 —— Clove ; 5 elite 
 —— Vanilla . a: eal 
 —— Angelica - . 38 
 ——. Orgeat . Cue i 
 —— Peppermint . sib. 
 —— Lemon ° midnndlls 
 ——— Vinegar . oct its 
 ——— Pine-Apple . es! 
 ——— Caraway .- 2 ADs 
 iene Jeaspberry . seers 
 ——— of two colours - ib. 
 ——. Ginger . eet: 
 ———. Catechu “ - 40 
 
 Chocolate with Non- 
 pareils. 40 
 in Moulds ib. 
 Vanilla Chocolate . ib. 
 
 Eggs in Rock Sugar .. pene, |. 
 jn Grained Sugar ED 
 
204 INDEX: - 
 PAGE PAGE 
 Engraving on Iron and Steel 226 | Guu Past, Drying Oil , 194 
 me Wood. - 228 Alabaster . 195 
 Escubac, Spirit of . » 184 on Modelling 
 Yellow «. » 190 Flowers in fine 196 
 ° ——_———. Pinks. 3. ae 
 Faggois, Almond, . 170) Jasmine) + 197 
 Figure, reduction of a large _——_ Fruit in « -db 
 one . = i. eS Horns in « 198 
 Figures, Modelling of, in Gum ee Shells in‘ ib. 
 Paste : « 202 Pastilles, Mil. 
 in Moulds . » 200 lefleursin . ib. 
 Foil, in copper and pewter . 221 Jewel Fruit in 199. 
 French Ribbon , - 19 —— Small Animals 
 Fruit preserved without Sugar 104 in fine -. db. 
 Bottled Apricots ib. | ——~—~—-—— Animals in Com- 
 sen Pulped Apricots 105 mon Paste ib. 
 ————. Currant Juice «ib. | ——————=_ Figures in : 
 ete Another way . 106 Moulds » 200 
 — Juice of various “Sti to push in the 
 > Fruitg) > ph; _ Moulds + ib. 
 General Obser- of Fixing Bor- 
 - vationson . ib. _ ders + 201 
 ——— Pastes.—See Pastes . 59 | ——————— of Modellingin ib. 
 — to Candy 2 ap on Modelling 
 — in Brandy 2 . 123 Figures in . 202 
 —— in Gum Paste . . 197 | ————— on Modelling 
 —— See Preserved Fruits . 106 Animalsin. ib. 
 — Birds in a 
 _Gamboge, to prepare .« » 205 : 
 Gilding Gum Paste . - 208 | Ham, imitation of . - 30 
 - Burnished . - 209 | Heat, various degrees of » 82 
 ; Oil - ° ; ib. | Hornsin Gum Paste. « 198 
 . in Oil a” “279 , 
 Gimblettes  . : « 162 | Ick CrEams « . 12 
 Gingerbread Nuts. « 171 ——-Chocolate ~~. ib. 
 Flat » 172 —— White Coffee. ib. 
 Gold Paper «Ohya Tea . ae 
 Wornished 218 | ——— ‘Vanilla « ib. 
 — to imitate Grass. 138 | —__-_—_——Cinnamon_. 1138 
 Gum Paste. - 192 —— Pistachio o7 ae 
 Fine . « 193} — Chesnut “I. ib. 
 Common . ib. | —————~Spanish Nut. ib. 
 ee Rice . - 194 Orgeat - 114 
 — Plaster, » ib. ' —— Plain . «| ib. 
 
Icrk Creams, Brown-Bread 
 Maraschino . 
 Noyau . 
 —__. Orange-flower 
 oie nee StTaw berry 
 
 a ‘Raspberry 
 Currant : 
 —— Pine-Apple . 
 Ice Well ‘ p : 
 See Water Ices. 
 Ices, Remarkson . “ 
 —— Custard for é 
 —— in Fruit Shapes . 
 Winter, Observations on 
 Iceing, Royal . . 
 Tron, Engravingon . “ 
 Isinglass, to clarify . . 
 
 Ivory Black, to prepare 
 
 Jasmine, artificial .« ° 
 Jellies ‘ ° e 
 Currant . ° 
 —— Cherry ° 
 Raspberry . 4 
 Black Currant : 
 ——— Apple . } : 
 Quince ‘ 7 
 Barberry : 3 
 Jelly, Clear . : . 
 ——___——- Venus’s 
 
 Orange-flower . 
 Strawberry ‘ 
 
 Currant : 
 Cherry . ‘ 
 ——— Orange . . 
 — Grape . ° 
 ho—-- Pine-A pple 
 ——_—— Apricot 
 Ser-7 Barberry . 
 ———_—— Vanilla . . 
 a Lemon . ’ 
 —_—- Coffee . . 
 —o—-T TPM cls 0 . 
 
 * 
 
 —_——— Arrack, or Rum 
 
 INDEX. 
 PAGE PAGE 
 114 | Jelly, Clear, Liqueur] » 131 
 ib. Whisked vee | 
 ib. | —— Macedoine ow. LBB 
 ne) Blanc Manger, 
 ib. or Orgeat ib. 
 ib. — Piece Montées, | 
 ib. Baskets, Vases, Pavilions, 
 ib. &c. a3 Ornaments in Spun 
 121 Sugar ° . «. 133. 
 Jewel Fruit in Gum Paste . 199 
 110 
 1ll | Kirchewasser . » 185 
 120 
 121 | Lemonade . ‘ . 144 
 138 | Linseed Oil, method of pre- 
 226 paring for Size. . 210 
 127 | Liqueur Drops . eer: | 
 206 Jewel. 2. 33. 
 Rings for Candy . 34 
 197 anewsort of Candy ib. 
 57 | —————. Drops of different : 
 ib. shapes » -» 39 
 58 made with Spirits . 187 
 ib. of Colouring Ee 
 58 | Lozenges, Rose ‘ » 140 
 ib. | ———— Cinnamon . oiiit.: See 
 59 | ———— Orange-flower . ib, 
 ib. in general . 14L 
 127 
 ib. | Macaroons, Bitter « « 163. 
 128 French ’. . 164 
 ib: | — Light... qn Ae 
 ib, | —————-— English . . 165 
 129 | —— Chocolate _ aa | 
 ib. Spice . o> lie 
 ih) Fasting . . 166 
 130 | Marmalades . : » 53 
 ib. Green Apricot ._ ib. 
 ib. | —— Ripe Apricot o4 
 ib. | ———-———. Cherry . ee 
 ib, | —— Raspberry a A 
 131 | ———_-——- Plum .. . 53 
 ib. | -——— Pear’) ee | 
 ib. | ——--————- Orange . » ib. 
 
 a 
 
236 INDEX. 
 PAGE 
 Marmalades, Peach . 56 | Orgeat Water s 
 
 Barberry eee 
 Black Currant . ib. 
 
 oo 
 
 Pine-Apple 57 
 Maraschino : 182 
 Meringues, Dry 176 
 Italian 5 anne RD: 
 White STF 
 tds. Light ’ ised 
 Meteors 178 
 Modelling yibleaiee in San 
 . Gum Paste. 196 
 Pinks : ee |) 
 Jasmine UE OT 
 Fruit " ste tr 
 Animals 199 
 Figures. - 200 
 Wax ; 214 
 the same, Flesh Co- 
 loured ras 
 Horns in Gum 
 Paste - 198 
 Shells ib. 
 
 Pastilles, Millefleurs ib. 
 
 Mould, to push in the 200 
 Moulding F 210 
 Moulds, Figures in . 200 
 Stucco 211 
 Sulphur - e212 
 Leaden ; eR: 
 Plaster 213 
 Nonpareils - 103 
 to colour poeta irc 
 Natural Fruit 28 
 Nogat : : 223 
 Cake . ; 3 aie 
 Oil Gilding . 209 
 —- Linseed, method of pre- 
 paring for Size . 210 
 Orangeade 144 
 181 
 
 Orange-flower Water 
 
 Ovens, Observations on : 
 
 PasTES MADE OF FRUIT 
 Paste, Apple 
 
 Quince 
 
 Currant 
 
 Cherry : 
 Apricot : 
 Plum 
 
 Peach R 
 Raspberry . 
 Orange 
 
 Lemon : 
 Black Currant, or 
 Drops : 
 Marsh-Mallow 
 Liquorice 
 
 Jujube 
 
 Orgeat, > 
 Almond — 
 
 Pasteboard, to make 
 
 Paste to make 
 Paste to join 
 Works in 
 Paste made of 
 
 Pastilles 
 Pate d’ Office, or Gomaeuieames 
 Paste . . 
 in Colours 
 Pieces Montées i * 
 Pinks, Artificial ° . 
 
 Pistachios, Rose Harlequin . 
 Chocolate Harle- 
 quin 
 Plate, or Size, for Busuished 
 Paper 
 Prawlings . - ° 
 Whiter tile: 
 Almond, in Red . 
 Natural Almond . 
 White Almond . 
 Pistachio . : 
 
INDEX. 237 
 PAGE PAGE 
 Prawlings, Nut 41 | Preserved Currants in 
 Orange-flower 42 bunches. 5 inant 
 Preserved Fruits. . 65 | Prussian Blue, to pr wees 206 
 Cherries, wet . 66 
 Cherries, dried . ib. | Ravarias 187 
 —_—- Cherries, whole 67 | Ratafia of Cherries 188 
 Cherries dried in Another of GheeBen: ib. 
 - bunches ib. from four Fruits ib. 
 ———— GreenApricots,wet ib. of Black Currants . 189 
 ——— Green Apricots, pared, Badiane . nib: 
 wet. ~~ G8 of Oranges. . esi. 
 ——_—_—. Ripe Apricots, wet ib. of Raspberries i 
 —_—_—. Ripe Apricots pared, of Currants . ib. 
 wet. Pee 5) of Mulberries 190 
 Apricots filled with Vespitro ib. 
 other Fruits ib. of Orange-flowers ib. 
 Apricots,without fire 70 Yellow Escubac ib. 
 Raspberries, wet . ib. of Green Walnut 
 ——_—. Raspberries, dry . ib. Shells 191 
 Walnuts, wet ib. Angelica Meee 
 Greengages, wet . 71 of Red Pinks ee Ibe 
 Mirabelle Plums, wet 27 Rock Sugar . . 85 
 Pears, wet ib. Mushroom in 86 
 Peaches, wet 73 Vases in ib. 
 Figs, wet . ai 94 Eggs in - 87 
 Quinces,. wet ib. | Rock. Piece. Montée. in a 
 Oranges, cut in Fi- Lake 137 
 gures 75 | Rose Harlequin Pistachios 42 
 Whole Orange- Pecks ib. | Rose. Water . os 180 
 Lemons, cut in Fi- _| Royal Iceing . ° - 138 
 gures ib. | Rusks, Fine . «157 
 Cedraty 76 | Reduction of a large Figure 
 Lemon Chips ib. bya Scale of Squares 201 
 ———- Orange Chips ib. 
 Angelica ib. | Saffron, to prepare . . 206 
 Chesnuts . . 477 | Sap Green, to prepare ib. 
 Green Hops, wet . ib. | Sausages, imitation of ras) 
 Whole Pine-Apple 78 | Shells in Gum Paste. - 198 
 Pine-Apple Chips _ib. | Shrewsbury Cakes 173 
 Green Gooseberries 79 Silver Paper. ‘ Oe 4 be 
 Cucumbers or Ger- Size,, method of preparing 
 kins ib. _ Linseed-oil for 210 
 Damsons, wet ._ ib. for Burnished Paper 218 
 Mogul Plums . 80 | Spinach Green, to prepare 206 
 
238 _ INDEX. 
 PAGE PAGE 
 Spinning Sugar . . 23] Sucar,A Crack — + «ail 
 Spun Glass - . = 225 — A Caramel . , 5 
 Spirits for Liqueurs . ~ él — Candy ‘ . 6 
 General Observations — to Spin . a 
 - On % te - 186 ~ Vegetables and Fruits _ 
 Spirit of Violets ‘ . 182 in m - 2am 
 Maraschino . yah. See Rock Sugar - 85 
 ——- Cordial Vanilla ib. | Syrups " 47-52 
 —__—. Barbadoes Cream . 183 | Syrup, Orgeat . ee 
 —— Angelica . «-- db. Raspberry - - 46 
 yO Orange : vo gh, — Currant ‘ eae 
 —— Aniseed : eo. Morello « Pert 
 ——- Cinnamon . ib. Mulberry .« 49: 
 —— Cedratys . . 184 Barberry. . 3a 
 — Pinks . 2 a Strawberry . « ibe 
 —— Escubac ‘ rae 18 — Raspberry Vinegar . ib. — 
 ——— Venus : ey. Capillaire . 0 see 
 ——— Coffee 2 7 orb. Lemon . . 50 
 Seed Tea ° e e 185 ve Coffee ° ° “ib. 
 ——__-. Almonds ~". Paes Wormwood . cle 
 _ Cuirasseau . mh: Marsh-Mallow «BR 
 Percicot 6, Eb, of Pinks . eee 
 ——~ Kirchewasser, or Spi- Violet ° ae 
 rit of Cherries ON aes 
 ——— Bourdeaux Aniseed . 186 Tablets, Barley Sugar , 
 Sean Cloves © « ib. Gi : 
 : inger : . 2 
 Liqueurs + « 187 C 4 
 : onserve . » 83 
 Steel, Engraving on . . 226 O ‘ 
 : range-flower o . 4b. 
 Stove, Remarks on its Con- ‘ 
 : Fruit . . 6&4 
 struction . ~ 82 : 
 Flower and Essence iba 
 ——=~ the proper degrees of ey kar : 
 : Pistachio . +. Sore 
 
 Heat . Pe . 
 
 : bis -——— Almond . ¢ ae 
 Strawberries, artificial ot BO 
 S eet iainice AE i Chocolate . . os 
 
 ag: ae — boiling of : 12 of Marsh-Mallow . 141 
 e a, T e . ns , ; 
 iy ontedelaitle " rees or Bushes, to imitate 138 
 —+— coarse brown, to cla- 
 
 rify . : « ib. | Vanilla Chocolate Drops .. 45 
 
 ——— Degrees of boiling . 3 | Varnishing and Gilding - 206 
 
 —— A Thread ». « ib. | Varnish for Gum Paste « ab. 
 A Pearl «4 ‘ 4 | Vegetables and Fruits, in 
 
 ——A Blow =. o Eb: Sugar ° > « 37 
 
 A Feather . . ib. | Vermilion and Cinnabar .« 206 
 
 —-— A Ball » - ib. | Vespitro . . »« -190 
 
L 
 | 
 Ww 
 WwW 
 : 
 : 
 
 ! Wafers a ® 
 
 —— Neapolitan . 
 
 eee Flemish ° 
 Almond . 
 Italian ‘ 
 Water Cakes : 
 Water, Currant ° 
 Cherry . 
 Strawberry . 
 Raspberry . 
 eee ° 
 Lemonade , 
 Orangeade . 
 Waters—See Distillation 
 ATER IcEs . 
 Water Ice, Strawberry 
 Raspberry 
 — — — Currant 
 Cherry 
 
 Apricot ® 
 
 r 
 & 
 
 INDEX. 209 
 PAGE PAGE 
 141 | Water Ice, Peach pA 1iT 
 142 inenten ADDIG ~s «ab. 
 ib. | —— Pear . i> ane 
 167 Barberry ae ats 
 170 | ———-—— Lemon ear i. 
 178 | —— Orange . ~. de 
 143 Maraschino ena t 2 
 ib. Cedraty . eae tie 
 ib. | — Ginger . Pesce 
 143 Champagne ee, Ft 
 144 | — Punch . Pepe 
 ib. — Bomba . a 219 
 ib. | -———-— Pine-Apple see 8 
 179 Grape . vib. 
 115 | Wax, Modelling in . 214 
 ib. Another, flesh colour a ib. 
 11g | Winter Ices, Observations 
 ib. on ° . ‘121 
 ib. | Wood, Engraving on » 228 
 ib. 
 
2 
 
 ee 
 
 0 
 
 Peme Vemyiadimingy 
 
 iy 
 
 ay 
 
‘s 
 > 
 , : 
 " * 
 ! 
 ' 
 i 
 : 
 2 
 ¢ 
 ‘ 
 my 
 < 
 i 
 “| 
 : 
 si 
 eee 
 | as 
 | A 
 ut 
 f 44g 72 
 ae 
 Nhe 
 ‘ ee 
 ; = 
 4 
 i ! 
 * 
 . 
 oY ‘. 
 hy 
 ae 
 », 
 a Le 
 + 
 pe 
 7 
 , . 
 
> nae 
 
 bakery S 
 Pe en 
 
 erm