wae (\ UM tes OX aa sokeors Se so aE RE NY Sa, pea nr {Sah SUA AAT * DORSET sec We E Cé 5 HOWLETT AND BRIMMER, PRINTERS, 10, FRITH STREET, SOHO. PREFACE [OQ THE SECOND EDITION: Tuts work is a practical one, and easy to. be understood by those who have the least insight into Cookery.—Unlike other publications on the same subject, it is not made up of obsolete Receipts, borrowed from preceding authors,* and retained only with the view of increasing the price of the book.—-When I state these facts, it will not, I trust, be thought presumptuous in me, to assert ~ that mine in trial will be found the most truly valuable work on Cookery extant; all the follow-"— a ing receipts I daily practise myself, and they are equally well suited to all families where elegance and economy are studied with due regard to the Sn nr arn * Ten receipts only from the Almanach des Gourmands, which are acknowledged where they occur, form the exceptions to this statement, aud these are given rather on account of their singularity than for any other reason. AZ iv PREFACE. situation of the parties and circumstances, com- prehending the table and house of the nobleman to that of the most humble tradesman.—And I regret to observe in this place, that there are very many good cooks capable of dressing the finest dinners, but have not the least contrivance, or economy, launching out to the highest pitch of extravagance, without the least possible use, destroying every thing before them. This extra- vagance is particularly noticeable with those kitchen-boys, (for they cannot be called cooks,) that come over yearly from France. In this edition are now first given one hundred choice Receipts in CONFECTIONARY,. besides several for bottling of fruits and juices, Distilling, and Pickling.—These have been added because the last edition of my work was considered by many of my friends as incomplete without Receipts of so much importance and general use to the accomplished housekeeper and amiable mistress of a family. On the mode of laying out a dinner I would observe, that the present fashion is neither to fill the dishes, nor to cover the table to half the same extent as formerly was practised.—This fashion is founded in good taste, and must be a permanent PREFACE, : ¥ one in all civilized societies; for what can display worse judgment than to fill the side dishes or entrées so full that the sauce must run over, or to crowd tables with dishes even in the centre, where itis impossible to reach them without a violent and ungraceful motion, requiring also a strength of nerve, not always at command?-—In fact, ‘the ponderous hospitality,” as Sir Walter Scott happily calls it, of former times, is completely banished, and would now appear to a well-bred person as extremely vulgar; because it would indicate that those invited to an entertainment were not accus- tomed to a dinner every day, and came with ploughmen’s or poets’ appetites. With respect to the dessert, the dishes of fruit ought to be well filled, but placed in a light and fanciful manner— picturesque is perhaps a word which to an artist of genius will best convey my meaning—as most pleasing groups or combinations may be formed by a judicious arrangement of the fruit. | Before I conclude, I think it right to suggest, that all kitchens in larger families should, if pos- sible, be constructed so as to prevent the admis- sion of any servant whatever. Let the dinner, lunch, or supper, be put through a sliding door, A3 oe PS IS Ia ea RE Rea, A se in ES < RES eseeraeess = VI PREFACE. made in the wall, into a passage or adjoining room. Such architectural arrangement would prevent the confusion occasioned by servants interrupting and interfering in matters they know nothing about, and it would also prevent their conversation engaging the attention of those who, when employed in cooking, ought not to be dis- turbed, or have their minds directed from the subject. With many dishes—indeed with most— a moment is of the utmost consequence, and hence the complaint of the poet so often and so justly quoted :— . “God sends us good meat, but the devil sends couks.”” The very great disadvantage of admitting men-seryants, in particular, into the kitchen, is so obvious as scarcely to require explanation ; and in every family where good order, regularity, and cleanliness are desired, the practice should be put a stop to, RR, Jan. 1, 1829. te pasha ie . PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. ly A PRINCIPAL consideration in Cookery being fuel, and which is most expensive, when ill managed, I beg leave to offer a few remarks, in — stating, that upon moderate calculation, eight and ten shillings worth of coals are destroyed in the day, with old fashioned, bad constructed ranges; these it will be needless to describe; but I shall mention the form and make of a modern one, which is almost the reverse of the former. The width and size of a kitchen range, ought to suit the situation and family it is intended for; but as a specimen, for form and dimension, if large or small, they should be equally propor- tioned; five or six bars are generally the depth approved of; and reversing the old system, the bottom should be broad, and the top comparatively narrow; for instance, if the bottom is nine inches broad, the top should be six only, bearing forward three inches; by which means the fire, if properly attended to, is always clear at the bottom, and the Viil PREFACE. heat thrown where it is wanted; instead of which, the old system was to send the heat up the » chimney, from the range being placed too high, with a broad top, and so near the chimney piece, as to cause‘four times a greater draught than the present mode, at the same time taking ai least double the quantity of coals or fuel. I do not introduce this assertion on mere theory, but from practice and plain matter of fact, that all the rea- soning in the world cannot contradict, although it is difficult to destroy old customs. Respecting the stoves, I think it advisable to have them built square at bottom, instead of arched, so that a stewpan may be placed as well under the fire as above it, by which means you have every advantage of the heat of the stoves; which advantage will be the saving of charcoal, a most expensive article. It is needless to say much regarding the management and detail of the kitchen, as the necessity must be evident to every person em- ployed, that the most perfect cleanliness, regu- larity, and order, should be observed; and thus it is ap important duty of the clerk of the kitchen, or head cook, to see that it is so. baal TABLE OF CONTENTS. Different Things as in Season throughout the Year. Page Meat and Venison...... 1 Poultry and Game .... ib. PRN 3Veverccec cesses oe Wrnits 4 ts Mutton ...0.. ib: iene nareaD'. Se Aas als ens 8 Pores sh ae an de Hams sk ce nO. Bacon ...... ib. Brawn ...-.. 9 see Venison....-. ib. Turkies...... ib. —_—_—— Pigeons...,.. ib. Poultry ...... ib. Ducks .,.,... 10 it Ee Geese. sec ce An: Pheasants.... ib. ——_———. Partgidges..... ib. ————— Woodcocks and Snipes .....,8ee08--4 1D, Hares .....- il Page To choose Rabbits...... 11 Sturgeon .... 12 +, Turbot ....05 ib. ————- Salmon ...... ib. SA Su roubiigeoren ae. Code ii acai Oth Skate....0... ih, Soles ...e6++- 13 Smelts ...-.. ib. Herrings .... ib. Tench Eels- ...s.e0+ id. Whitings -... ib. Prawns and Shrimps ......- bhce'ls uaa ————-. Lobsters. .... ib. Crabsias eas sab. ————. Oysters...... ib. A receipt to promote the digestion of Oysters.. ib. Directions for keeping the Kitchen accounts. 15 Salting. To salt Beef ......000-6 17 Hung Beef .... ib. ——— Tongues ....5» 18 Leg of Mutton.. ib. Pork ....5...5- ib. x TABLE OF Page Pickled Pork....... See 9 To salt Hams.......... ib. ——— Hams smoked . 20 PAGCOR, 5s esavs sears ib. Boiling. To boil Beef ......... oo Tongues! | 23.04% 22 Leg of Mutton.. ib. Leg of Mutton another way .... ib. —— Neck of Veal. ib. -——— leg of Lamb 23 —— lLeg of Pork.... ib. ———— Ham .:........ ib. ——— Bacon ....... 24: —— Pigs’ feet and eats ib. —— Cow- heel . ib. Directions for Trussing, To truss Fowls........ 24, —— Turkies ..... ees ——--_— Turkey Poults. ib. —— Pheasants and Partridges ..... .... ib. Pigeons...... 26 — Geese .....ee. ib. ——. Ducks ...... 97 Moor Fowl .. ib. Woodcocks and SUNOS SU h cs ses 0 iD. Larks, Wheat- ears, and small birds.. ib. Hawes. oh ous. ib. Rabbits ...... 28 Swans........ ib. Directions for Carving. To carve Round of Beef 29 Brisket ...... ib. Ui Smloin. 6 5 40/2: ib. Beef Tongue ~ ib. Fillet of Veal . ib. ——_——— Breast of do .. 30 CONTENTS. Page To carve Leg of Mutton 30 _———_ — Shoulder of do. ib. Neck of do.... 31 Saddle of do... ib; a ForeQuarter of amb: ak Osi. ‘ ib. PIS, BB eece ib. Sparerib of Pork 32 —-——. Hams ........ ib. — Haunch of Ve- MISO. ces es i ib. Bist ehsccs. eaciaw W Bowlsecd ea 33 — Turkies and Turkey Poults ...... ib. Pheasants and Partridges:. 005. 6° ib, ~~ Pigeons ...... ib. ——+— Geese....... - 384 Pueks esi," ib. —-—— Moor Fowl ib. Woodccocks and PA ae : ib. Larks and gmail Pips iis ccise ioeteccon ihe ak ib, Hares. 6> grillés, with Mushrooms .......< a la Turque.. a Hollandaise ala Provengale aux Huitres, or with Oysters ........ en Haricot- WIOTBES . eis skies s aux Haricots- verts, or with French TS GANS: « 5 aieis tates kbvs = au Céleri, or with Celery. .. vissees a 122 ib. 123 124 ib. ib. with Onions 125 a la Bretonne ib. 126 ib. 127 128 ib. 130 ib. 131 ib. ib. 132 ib. ib. 133 ib. 134 ib. 133 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page Chickens aux Choufleurs, or with Cauliflowers.. 135 Poularde aux Truffes, or Fow! with Truffles .. ib, ————- aux Quenelles de Vieatesenees oahos Saib: ala Financiére 136 Fricassée of Chicken with Mushrooms........+, ib. —_—— a VI- talienne 4. eels 137 —— en Haricot-vierge ...... ib. ———_—_——_--—___—_ aux petits Pois ieee 3) cece ibs Fillets of Chicken sauté Ala d’Artoise........ 138 a la Béchamelle...:...... ib. —_ ——— a la Maitre-d’Hétel ...... ib. —— with Endive sec ee eb, —— al’Ita- lienvie se". + See Sagi 199 a la Ravisote ?i.ccmeeeon 1b: ————— a .la Rein@iee Se eos eee Blanquette of Chicken with Cucumbers .... ib. in a Casserole of Rice 140 with Macaroni ...... ib. Potage 4 la Camerani.. 141 Cutlets of Chicken grilled ib. Mince Chicken, with the Legs broiled... ance AAO ce in oa Timbale ............ ib, Gratin of Chicken...... 143 Croquettes of Chicken. ib. fiecons ta ee ary la Boyale..........0- ib. Page Fillets of Chicken ° in savoury Jelly ........ 144 ——_———__+—_————. in an Italian Salad ........ ib. Chicken or Fowl forced, in savoury Jelly...... 145 Turkey. Turkey with Truffles .. 145 a VEspagnole .. 146 ——-—— with Sausages .. ib. ——— ala Royale .... ib. —— with Oysters.... ib. en Haricot-vierge 147 ina Ragoit .... ib, to be served cold ib. Ducks, Ducks stewed with red Cabbage ............ 148 farce 4 l’Espagnole ib, —— with a Purée of Carrots See £49 aeoovesn aux Légumes, or with Vegetables...... ib. ala Braize ...,.. — alVOrange ....... ib. ae en Salaiser ooh.) 150 en Salmis 4 l’Estra- LOW isseidielslsisjeiein ee stale ale — aux Truffes ...... ib. -~——grillées, et Champig- nouns sosee 152 in a Tureen with young Peas.......... ib. : Pigeons. Pigeons farce a l’Estra- gon, or with Tarragon 153 ala Dauphine».... ib. ——alaLune ......... ib. aux ‘Truffes, or with Truffles ........ 154 A* 2 XVI TABLE OF Page Pigeons en Compote.... 154 au Court-bouillon ib. ——— en Marinade.... 155 en Ragott... ib. grillés with Mush- room Sauce alVAllemande .. farce a lHollan- 156 ib. daise 157 aux Quenelles, PEspagnole evrenaeeses Pheasants. Pheasant with Truffles —-— with Celery .... farce a lEspag- MOLE Va scc ae betes e eee e a l’Italienne .... en Fillets ...... a VAllemande .. alaTurque .... en Gratin’...... Partridges. Partridges with Truffles ————- with red Cab- Dage.vercesrecs ala Lune .... — alItalienne.. en Salmis, or grillés, with Mushrooms ....e..e.. ib. farce a l’Estra- gon, or with Tarragon 162 Fillets of Partridge griilés ib. ——— sautés —_——_—_——_—_———_ en Attelets eee eee OS Blanquette of Partridge with Truffles ........ ib. with young Peas.... 164 Croquettes of Partridge ib. 160 eeoee Hash ib. a l’Italienne ib. CONTENTS. Page Rabbits. Rabbits boiled with white Onion Sauce.... 165 roasted with brewn Onion Sauce... ib. ina Fricassée .. 166 alVItalienne .... ib. Fillets of Rahbits en At- telets .. pevewintslcesoe Lol a — ala Maréchale ...ecceeee Blanquette of Rabbits.. ib. 168 Hare. Hare au Chevreuil, or as * Roe-buck ...... —~ en Salmis, or Hash en Ragotit...ecses Civet . Fillets of Hare aux Truf- fes, or with Truffles.. — grillés, aux Coucombres Gateau de Levraut, or Hare Cake eocee eeeereveonoed eeoecoece Woodcocks and Snipes. Woodcocks en Salmis .. en Salmis au Bernardin .....ceece en Salmis- gunde v....ecseeveey Ib. en Croquettes 175 enVol auVent ib. and Snipes FOASTOU TS ees ce eee | TR. Snipes with Truffles .. 176 alEspagnole.... ib. 174 Sauces for every Occasion. Sauce Tournée, or plain Sauce ..seeee- velcwe AVG &. PEspagnole, or Spawish Sauce ...... 179 Butter Sauce ...s.seeey ib: eae TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page Béchamelie .......... 179 Crean secede Pee 480 Mushroom a ’Espagnole ib, White Mushroom Sauce ib. Italian Sauce .......... ib. Sauce a la Reine ...... 181 &laVenétienne .._ ib. —— a la Maitre-d’Hotel, or House. Steward’s Say@e: i056, Sao ab: a la Hollandaise, or Dutch Sauce ........ ib. another Dutch Sauce ib. -——— ala Bretonne...... 182 Egg Sauce ...-........ ib. Celery Sauce .......... ib. Onion Sauce, white .... ib. Ditto brown.... 183 Sorrel Sauce ....eesee. ib. Sauce Robert, or Car- rier’s Sauce ........ 184 Swan Sauce .......... ib. Caper Sauce .......... ib. Sauce for roasted Rabbits 185 Bread Sauce \..66 desea scab. ‘Tomatus Sauce ........ ib. Mint:Sauee: 6.663086 e vib. Apple Sauce .......... 186 Tarragon Sauce........ ib. Truffle Sauce .......... ib. Cucumber Sauce ...... ib. Larks dressed and gar- MHSHE Mises ce coe oe £87 Venison Sauce ........ ib. To clarify Butter ...... ib. Gravy for roast Meat, or plain Hashes ........ 188 italian Sauce for Salads ib. Sauce for Sturgeon .... ib. Oyster Sauce.......... 189 Lobster Sauce ........ 190 Shrimp Sauce.......... ib. Anchovy Sauce ........ ib. XVII Page Sauce for baked Pike .. 190 To make Ketchup .... 191 Remoulade Sauce .....-. ib. Dishes and Entrées of Fish. Sturgeon roasted en Ma- rinade: «sf as e0. os 495 a VItalienne .. ib. —~ stewed with Madeira Wine ...... ib. Cutletsof Sturgeon griliés 196 Fillets of Sturgeon sautés, with young Peas .... ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel .. 197 alaTurque ........ ib. with Tarragon Sauce ib. Mince Sturgeon a la Portugaise .......... ‘ib. Gratin of Sturgeon .... ib, Sturgeon in an Italian Salad.civiawcasikos £98 in savoury Jelly ib. Turbot boiled ........ 199 BPNC! Ceo Zag ae, small fried...... ib. a Hollandaise... 200 Fillets of Turbot sautés aVAurore .........+ ib. with Mushrooms a la Béchamelle........:> ib. ——___ grillés 201 Turbot with Macaroni : ina Gratin.......... ib. Salmon boiled ........ ib. ——— baked with Pike SAUCE i a lHollandaise.... ib. —— in Fillets fried .... ib. —ala Ravigote. coves 218 Eels grillés a ’Italienne ib. —— ina Matelotte .... ib. ——— stewedal’Espagnole ib. =— Gollared, ¢ ses cies v5 2 219 Prawns ib. Shrimps in a Gratin ..,. 220 WPDStOE: 4 asker ae teiiee ORD. in an Italian Sa- eco4usevevvev ee eee e ib. in Savoury Jelly ib. Oysters in a Gratin .... 221 To makea Brondade .. ib. Vegetables. Artichokes boiled. ...e+ a VItalienne.. ib. a ’Etouffade..~ ib. al’Espagnole.. 225 eoeeroeseeevee eed lad 224 TABLE OF Page Beet Root baked ...... 225 Brocoli boiled. ..,...+. ib. Beans, French, ditto.... 226 —— Garden, ditto ee raat os Cabbage a la Dame Si- MIQN EI EY) Soke aviiareuccaoulas stewed a lEspa- SNAG, n.o.0;0 co SGiewinig meae er To make a Garbure three WAYS) 0.5, side ies ie averale eid. Cauliflowers a ra Gime 229 Carrots ina ac A EN on Stewed .....0. —eeoD Cucumbers a la Créme ib. al’Espagnole.. 231 ———— en Gratin .... ib. Bour- ee ——-—— 4 la geoise ..... Celery stewedalaCréme_ ib. 2 with a Tvast ib. e@veeteoee —_—————-enGratin.. 233 Chesnuts stewed ....-. ib. : —— inaPurée.... ib. Endive ina Purée.....- 234 stewed .....++2 ib. Jerusalem Artichokes .. 235 Lettuce farce a la Dame SIMONC) fics daa setae seals ina Purée,....- ib. stewed to gar- nish Beef, or in a Brown Sauce Sidhe vcssuioiebOs Leeks on Toasts....eco2 ib, Mushrooms stewed .... ib. ——__~-— large, broiled 236 — nomall a la CLEMO ie ei Becta carers -n ib. on Gratin .. ib. — en Marinade fried pli Guakerdl wide Beet Mittas:. cvs wedonts Meast ditto. was cseday a Hard ditto-sd caiaien tien Raspberry or Currant do. Pancakes a la Francoise ib. alItalienne .. 287 PIB 603 Sxapare Es Apple fritters.....eee.. ib. ala Turque .... 288 alaFrangipane.. 289 —alaNone ...... ib. Meringue ...... ib. en Miroton .... 290 “———— en Compote .... ib. Chartreuse de Pommes.. ib. Charlotte of Apples.... 291 CONTENTS. XXI Page Cherries in a Timbale .. 292 Apricots ditto ...... ib, Marmalade .... ib. Currants ina Timbale .. ib. Gooseberries in an open Tart, with or without Cream ..0ccsindis ves 01998 GooseberryFool,orGoose- berries with Cream.. ib, Peaches ina Compote .. ib. in a Timbale..,. 294 Pines ina Compote .... ib. Pears stewed. ..sccasss ADs Quinces ditto.......... ib. in a Marmalade... 295 Jellies and Creams. To clarify Sugar ...... 296 Tapas oe ee Isinglass. e@eceaeve 297 Apple Jelly... ccesscsee ADs Barberry Jelly ........ 298 Cherry Jelly ..ciscnvae ibi Currant Jelly ...ses0e+» 299 Chicken or Fowl in Jelly ib. Italian Jelly ....e0sc0: ibs Lemon Jelly .........+ 300 Orange Jelly &......++ ib. Peach Jelly ....s.0e.+ 301 Strawberry Jelly ....... ib. Wine Jelly .......225++ 302 Eggs and Anchovies in POUY. has a0:a:n9:% boinc eee Pine Jelly , «<9 siaecateudannne Apricot Cream ........ 304 Blanc-Mange aux Aman- DOS sis:o's o's nig Sashulowavey SI Almond Cream -- 805 Burnt Cream ....;.....) ib. Italian Cream ...,..5+ 306 Cream another Way soccesecisvoeses ib. S@eeesceoerses M XIE Page Tea Cream.....cseceee 307 Coffee Cream........ APL ee To roast Coffee ......+- 308 Chocolate Cream ..... ibe Vanilla Cream ........- ib. To give the flavour of Va- nilla to Coffee........ Peach Crean’... 0.4 e's > iD; hum. GH Sse se ela ib. Pear: ditto, Gace Gercie S30 ib. Cream grillée.......... ib. StrawberryCream .... Ice Cream in a Savoy Biscuit i Whipped Cream ...... 341 Ree Creams esis. cose 328 Confectionary. To clarify Sugar ...... $13 The degrees of ditto.... 312 Rock Sugar . ..... vee 313 Barley ditto .......... 314 Sugar Tablets, or Kisses ib. 3a Sugar ..3.... viele ee ID. PANO .. «te ceteris ED Lemon Drops.......++. 315 Orange ditto ....... ace 4b. Waolet Gitto. < ew nciees ss 6)/ 1D: Orange Flower ditto .. ib. Peppermint ditto ...... 316 Ditto Lozenges.....,.. ib. BOSE OILED kos a seinieie ous ib. Vanilla ditto .......... ib. PPPOE oars Uae cee Ds Finger Biscuits, or Drops 317 Toad-in-the-Hole Biscuits ib, Patience ditto ........ ib. Water ditto Carraway ditto ........ ib. Ratafia ditto, or Drops . ib. Chantilly Basket ...... 319 Almond Cake.......... ib, Qucen ditto ....663.0. ib Shrewsbury ditto...... 520 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page Ginger Cake ........4.. 320 Gingerbread Nuts .... 321 A Gingerbread Cake .. ib. PUske eee. he Vesee es. AD. PMNS e's wis cele l Ss Paes a's GEE Seed Cake ....... é¢ese.. 1D. Large rich Currant, or Plum Cake........+» ib. Pium Cake another way 323 Iceing for Cakes ...... 324 Lemon Wafers .......- ib. Orange ditto ......0006 325 Peppermint ditto ...,.. ib. ROSE Gitte <55 6 x.6'i.40<5s 1D. Apricot Jams icces... stb. Raspberry ditto ....... 326 Strawberry ditto ...... ib. Damson ditto.......... ib. Barberry ditto ....... ~ ib. Currant Jelly.......... Apple ditto........ee0. ib. Gooseberry ditto ....... 328 Raspberry ditto........ ib. Apricot Ice-cream...... ib. Strawberry ditto ...... 329 Biscuit ditto Jo. jesse. a: Ginger ditto .......... 330 PRAM: GitlO: 6 «:0.s:0:03)8 ve ks SADS Orange Water Ice .... ib. Beach ditto!) S.6. s.0.3 a6. fie Cherry ditto .......... 331 Strawberry ditto ...... ib. Damson ditto.......++. ib. Lemon ditto .......... ib. Punch ala Romain, or Roman Punch ...... 332 Bottled Fruits. Rihbanbs ees Cel ee 333 Green Apricots........ ib, Gooseberries .......... ib. Currants ....... wale Cielo (OO4 Currant Juice.....+...; ib. Raspberries ..... ve ib. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page Cherries .............. 334 Cherry Juice .......... 335 APTiCOtS . ss ceesctee abe Plums’ soos. stu ace Gite Damsons...........e0s ib. Peaches... iepesse css S36 Neetarines:.....64..... ib. Barberries............ ib, Fruit in Brandy, Morella Cherries ...... ib. APricots.. 0c. sc ue ee Peaches “2. 0600.6 eee co 337 Green Gages .........._ ib. Plums..... Saleiave elie Preserved Fruit, wet. Apricots ..ceeseereeees ib. Green Gages .......... 338 Strawberries .......e-+ id. Orange Peel .......00¢ 339 Lemon ditto'.......... ib, CHELTICS 565-05 ois coves Re Cucumbers, or Girkins . ib. Green Gooseberries .... 340 Damsons:.. Seve cecaieccs 1D: Angelica ...+.secssedes 341 Dried Fruits. Apricots .o..ssecceesee ibd, Green Gages .......0.+. ib. Orange Peel ......0:.+6 342 CHEDFIES fois dee ee Ie Angelica ..ccecse-cceee ID. DamsOns:.< 56.6 cc sce os 343 Bins .csscccccesesecs AD. Home-made Wines. Cowslip ...c...522,232 ib. Gooseberryescesesseree 344 Currant ..2..e.2s.200. ib, CHEITY.. 6s 00s seccecere ID, PRG CL oo wreciae eeareeie soe Oa XXIII , Page Elder Flower .......... 345 Raiguh cies euccus ss. a4ae GINGOR es ce isis ckane a. Orange en ccrc ses cee lite GlaPCvcctancdavsinces ns SAF Damson ......sesee0e- ibd, Distillation. Cherry Brandy ........ 350 Créme de Noyau ...... ib. Créme d’Orange ...... ib, Ratafia de Cerise ...... ib. Anniseed Cordial....... 351 Citron ditto .......... ib. Peppermint Water .... ib. Ditto Cordial.......... ib. Essence of Peppermint... 352 Lavender Water ...... ib. Rose:ditto on 3.6 ses ca. hk Elder Flower Water.... ib. Ditto Syrup: ¢.......... ib, Capillaire \........... 353 To make Yeast........ ib. Pickling. Common Vinegar ...... 354 ‘Tarragon ditto ........ id. Green Apricots ........ ib, GIRINS: ees scai ese ce Gat Beetroot voles cc cs coon Cauliflowers ...-...... ib. Mushrooms........++ »« 356 Red Cabbage ........-. ib. Onions’ +0530 te oi, oe See Samphire i. 24's ese cea 10, Nasturtiums ........... ib. Indian Pickle, or Pieca- THO’. seep eee French Beans......,... ib, Mangoes... .ceceseses- S50 East India Curry .......360 another way ib, & S ~~ =. 2s Rs = © s™_ ~ e =: is oS = 8 iS) = gs Oo* Ww = = 2s > 2 4 > 2 a hs @ bw Oo & ae 2 & ee reEe — SS m3 [x an | ml PRACTICAL FRENCH AND ENGLISH COOKERY; Sinplified to all Capacities, and adapted to the Use of every Rank and Degree in Life. BOOK f. MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, FISH, FRUIT, AND VEGETABLES, IN SEASON DURING THE DIF- FERENT MONTHS OF THE YEAR. MEAT. Beer, veal and mutton, are in season through- out the year. cd House lamb, from December to April. Grass lamb, from April to September. Pork from October to March. Venison (Buck), from June to September, and Doe venison, from November to January. POULTRY AND GAME. January.— Fowls, capons, chickens, pullets, turkies, tame pigeons, rabbits, hares, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks and snipes. february.—F owls, capons, chickens, pullets, turkies, pigeons, rabbits, hares, pheasants, par- tridges, woodcocks and snipes. ee | March.—Fowls, capons, chickens, pullets, turkies, ducklings, pigeons, tame rabbits. April. —Feowls, capons, chickens, pullets, ‘ ducklings, pigeons, levercts, rabbits. a B May 9 POULTRY, &c. 1N SEASON, May. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducklings green geese, turkey poults, leverets, rabbits. June.—Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducklings, green geese, turkey poults, —plovers, leverets, rabbits. July.—Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducklings, green geese, turkey poults, pigeons, plovers, leverets, rabbits. August. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducks, green geese, turkey poults, rabbits, leverets, grouse, black cocks. September. — Fowls, chickens, - pullets, ducks, geese, partridges, grouse, black cocks, rabbits, hares. P October.—F owls, chickens, pullets, wild ducks, geese, pigeons, partridges, pheasants, woodcocks, snipes, widgeons, teal, rabbits, hares, dot- terels. November. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, wild ducks, geese, partridges, pheasants, woodcocks, snipes, larks, widgeons, teal, dotterels, rabbits, hares, turkeys, swans. December. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, wild ducks, turkeys, partridges, pheasants, woedcocks, snipes, larks, widgeons, teal, dotterels, rabbits, hares. a FISH. J anuary.—Sturgeon, turbot, -cod, whitings, flounders, plaice, skate, lampreys, carp, tench, perch, eels, smelts, soles, oysters, lobsters and prawns. february.—Sturgeon, turbot, cod, whitings, flounders, plaice, scate, soles, smelts, eels, lam- preys, perch, carp and tench, oysters, lobsters and crabs, cray fish and prawns. : March. FISH IN SEASON. 3 . March.—Turbot, soles, whitings, flounders, plaice, scate, thornback, eels, carp, teneh, oys- ‘ters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, cray fish. April.—Turbot, soles, salmon, trout, scate, mullets, smelts, carp, tench, prawns, lobsters, crabs, cray-fish. . : May.—Turbots, soles, salmon, trout, smelts, carp, tench, prawns, crabs, cray-fish, lobsters, ehub. June.— Turbot, soles, salmon, trout, smelts, mullets, mackerel, pike, tench, carp, herrings, lobsters, cray-fish, prawns, ; . July. — Soles, salmon, mullets, haddocks, plaice, herrings, mackerel, thornbut, eels, pike, earp, tench, lobsters, cray-fish, prawns. August.—Cod, salmon, mullets, haddocks, plaice, flounders, herrings, thornbut, scate, pike, carp, tench, eels, lobsters, cray-fish, prawns. September.—Cod, haddocks, thornbut, floun- ders, plaice, smelts, soles, scate, carp, eels, oysters, tench, pike, lobsters. October.—Dorees, salmon trout, smelts, brills, gurnets, pike, carp, tench, perch, oysters, lob- sters, cockles, November. — Salmon trout, dorees, smelts, - gurnets, pike, carp, tench, oysters, cockles, muscles, lobsters, soles. December. — Sturgeon, cod, codlings, soles, smelts, gurnets, turbot, eels, carp, dorees, oys- ters, muscles, cockles. FRUITS. January.— Apples, pears, medlars, grapes, almonds, chesnuts, nuts, oranges. __ February. — Apples, pears, grapes, almonds, oranges. BQ ; March. 4 FRUITS, VEGETABLES, &c. IN SEASON. March.— Apples, pears, strawberries, oranges. April.—Apples, pears, green apricots, cherries. é P ) § ‘OS, ; May.—Apples, pears, strawberries, cherries, green apricots, melons, green gooseberries, currants. June.—Peaches, apricots, melons, nectarines > cee 9 2 . 3 grapes, cherries, strawberries, gooseberries. ~ July.—Peaches, apricots, melons, nectarines ; Me ) eae ng ’ pine-apples, strawberries, raspberries, goose- berries, currants, cherries. August.—Peaches, nectarines, plums, cher- ries, pine-apples, melons, strawberries, rasp- berries, currants, gooseberries, mulberries, figs. September. — Peaches, plums, cherries, pine- apples, grapes, melons, quinces, currants, wal- _nuts, filberts, hazel-nuts, barberries, damsons. October. — Peaches, grapes, apples, pears, quinces, plumbs, cherries, damsons, bullace, walnuts, filberts, hazel-nuts, barberries. _November.—Apples, pears, quinces, grapes, pine-apples, medlars, chesnuts, walnuts, nuts. December.—Apples, pears, medlars, grapes, chesnuts, walnuts, nuts. VEGETABLES, ROOTS, AND HERBS. J anuary.—Brocoli, savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spinage, endive, lettuces, edleey: sorrel, cardoons, scorzonera, potatoes, artichokes, beet - root, carrots, turnips, parsnips, asparagus, tarragon, chervil, savory, thyme, parsley, small sallad, mushrooms. february.—Brocoli, savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spinage, endive, lettuces, celery, sorrel, cardoons, beans forced, asparagus, beet-root, turnips, parsnips, chervil, tarragon, savory, cucumbers, thyme, burnet, smal] sallad, mushrooms. | : March. ROOTS AND HERBS IN SEASON. 5 March.—Savoys, cabbages, spinage, sprouts, lettuces, parsnips, turnips, carrots, artichokes, cardoons, beans, cucumbers, chives, burnet, savory, thyme, mint, tarragon, chervil, sallad, mushrooms, sorrel, parsley. April.—Cabbages, brocoli, spinage, sprouts, sorrel, lettuces, french-beans, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, young onions, radishes, thyme, mint, burnet, tarragon, chervil, parsley, sallad, mush- rooms. May.—Young cabbages, cauliflowers, spinage, turnips, carrots, young potatoes, sorrel, lettuces, cucumbers, french beans, asparagus, onions, cresses, fennel, tarragon, chervil, parsley, mush- rooms, sallad and all kinds of herbs. June. —~ Cauliflowers, peas, beans, spinage, artichokes, lettuces, cucumbers, asparagus, tur- nips, carrots, potatoes, onions, cresses, parsnips, radishes, sorrel, sallad and all kinds of herbs. July.—Cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes, peas, beans, lettuces, carrots, turnips, potatoes, sorrel, salsify, onions, garlick, radishes, cucu mbers, parsnips, celery, tarragon, chervil, sallad, and all kinds of fine herbs. 2 August.—Cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes, peas, beans, lettuces, carrots, turnips, potatoes, sorrel, salsify, onions, celery, beet-root, sprouts, parsley, shalots, mushrooms, sallad and all kinds of fine herbs. September.—Cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes, sprouts, beans, peas, carrots, onions, turnips, pees salsify, scorzonora, celery, beet-root, lettuces, sorrel, leeks, mushrooms, sallad, and all kinds of fine herbs. October.—Cauliflowers, cabbages, sprouts, Q Py B potatoes, eer et et 6 MARKETING. potatoes, turnips, endive, lettuce, celery, salsify, parsnips, spinage, cardoons, scorzonora, beet- root, leeks, parsley, skirrets, sallad, and all kinds of fine herbs. November. — Cauliflowers, cabbages, arti- chokes, salsify, cardoons, scorzonora, lettuces, celery, turnips, leeks, potatoes, endive, skirrets, parsnips, beet-root, savoys, parsley, tarrajon, chervil, thyme, mushrooms, sallad. December. — Brocoli, cabbages, savoys, spin- age, lettuces, cardoons, salsify, scorzonora, celery, leeks, endive, beet-root, turnips, parsnips, skir- rets, potatoes, parsley, carrot, thyme, mushrooms, tarragon, chervil, savory, small sallad. MARKETING FOR ALL KINDS OF MEAT, FOWL, AND FISH. To chuse Beef To chuse Turkies — Mutton —-———. Pigeons — Veal ———. Poultry Lamb ———— Ducks ————_ Pork _—_-——._ Geese ——— Hams : ———— Pheasants ————. Bacon ————. Partridges Brawn ———— Woodcocks and Snipes Venison ——_——-_ Hares Rabbits —— Eels Sturgeon —— Whitings ° Turbot ———— Prawns and Shrimps~ Salmon ————— Lobsters ——— Trout - Crabs ——— Cod Oysters ——— Skate A receipt to promote the diges- ——— Soles _ tion of oysters. ——— Smelts ~ Directions for keeping the ——— Herrings kitchen accounts. Tench Directions for Marketing. Before you go to market it is proper to fix in your mind, what you mean to purchase, and what quantity, MARKETING. ? quantity, according to the number in family, first accurately observing what remains from the preceding day ; so that on entering a tradesman’s shop you may quickly determine, and have no- thing to do, but to chuse the best articles, At the butcher’s, always see your meat weighed, and placed ready to be sent home before you leave the shop; if for a few you wish a piece of beef for roasting, either take part of the ribs or surloin, the latter is preferable ; if for five or six persons, a piece of eight or ten pounds weight will do. TO CHUSE BEEF. If young ox beef, it will have a smooth and open grain, of a fine brightred, and very tender, the fat should be straw colour, and the suet per- fectly white. Cow beef runs closer in the grain, the lean is not so red, and the fat whiter than ox beef. Bull beef is still closer in the grain, the lean of a dark red, the fat skinny, and it has a stronger smell than either ox or cow beef, MUTTON. If wether mutton, the flesh is of a deep red, the grain close, and the fat rather soft ; the flesh of ewe mutton is paler and the grain closer: if you squeeze young mutton it will feel tender, but if old, it will feel hard, continue wrinkled, and the fat clammy ; black nosed mutton is the most esteemed. : VEAL. If the head is fresh, the eyes will appear full, if stale, sunk and wrinkled ; if the shoulder vein is not of a clear red, the meat. is stale, and if there are any green or yellow spotsit is certainly bad. The flesh of a cow calf is whiter than fe BA 0 &. MARKETING. of a bull, though not so much esteemed, but the fillet is often preferred on account of the udder; a stale loin will be soft and slimy, and of course the kidney very bad, as that part is the first tainted ; if good neck or breast should look white and clear, without being smeared over with fat ; indeed veal should never be kept long undressed, for it is not improved by keeping. LAMB. The same observations nearly serve for lamb; but the vein in the fore quarter must be of aclear blue for it to be fresh, if green and yellow it is stale. PORK. The flesh of pork appears cool and smooth if fresh ; if tainted, it is clammy: the knuckle in general is affected first.. There isa kind of pork called measley; when in this state it is very un- wholesome but it is easily perceived by the fat being impregnated with small kernels. When pork is old, the rind is hard and rough, not easily penetrated with the finger. _ ‘HAMS. Put a knife under the bone of a ham, if it comes out clean and smells well, the ham is good ; if smeared and has an unpleasant smell, it is bad. BACON. In good bacon the fat will feel oily, though firm and white, the lean, of a clear colour, will adhere close to the bone; if beginning to rust, some yellow streaks will be touclied in the lean. The rind of young bacon is thin, of old bacon thick. BRAWN. © MARKETING. BRAWN. The fat and horny parts of sow brawn are very tender, and the meat of a pale clear red : but of old brawn, the rind is hard and thick. VENISON. The choice of venison depends chiefly on the fat; if young, the fat will appear thick, clear, and close ; if old, it appears tough and coarse : as it begins to change first towards the haunches, Tun your knife into that part; if tainted, you will perceive a rank smell, and it will have a green or blackish appearance. TURKIES. A young cock turkey has smooth black le with a short spur, the eyes are bright and full: if stale, the eyes are sunk, the feet dry; which, when fresh, are soft and pliable. An old hen turkey’s legs are rough and red, the vent hard ; if with egg, the vent will be soft and open. PIGEONS. When fresh and in good order, they are plump and fat at the vent, and their feet pliable ; if stale, the vent withered, open, and green. Tame pigeons are preferable to wild. Wood pigeons are of a coarser and larger kind; still follow the same rules to chuse them, as likewise larks _ and other small birds. POULTRY. Judge of a young cock in the same manner as a turkey, and the hens too. The latter are best a week or two before they begin to lay. Observe that a good capon has a fat and full breast, a large rump, and the comb pale. BO DUCKS. 10 MARKETING. DUCKS. AA good fresh killed duck is fat, the breast hard and thick, the legs rather soft. If stale, the feet are dry and the skin difficult to scald off, A tame duck’s feet are yellowish and stronger than those of a wild duck, which are of a reddish colour. Ducklings should be scalded, but ducks picked in the same manner as poultry. GEESE. , Chuse a goose with a yellow bill and feet, and you will find it young; when old, the feet and bill are red. If fresh, the feet are pliable; if stale, stiffand dry. The same remarks apply to wild geese. : PHEASANTS. When you chuse a young cock pheasant, ob- serve that the spurs are short and round ; if old, the spurs are long and sharp. A cock pheasant is a finely flavoured bird, but the-hen is prefer« able. If the bird is stale, the skin peels off the vent when rubbed with the finger. The same observations will serve for black cocks: which game is found on the moors‘in the northern coun- ties, PARTRIDGES If young, they have a dark bill, and legs of a yellowish colour ; the plumage on the breast of a hen is light; of a cock, tinged with red. When stale, the same as pheasants. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPEs. This is a finely flavoured bird, but being a bird of passage, it is only found in England during the winter: it lives on suction, therefore it is supposed that it comes from Russia, when the . severe MARKETING. iL severe frost begins, and seeks a winter abode in warmer climates. When fat, it feels full and thick, the vent the same, and a streak of fat runs on the side of the breast : if fresh killed, the head and throat are clear and the feet pliable. Snipes, the same. | i HARES. | When a hare is old, the ears are dry and tough, the opening in the lip wide, and the claws blunt : but if young, the claws are smooth and sharp, the ears tender, and the opening in the lip much closer than when old. When newly killed, the body is stiff and flesh pale; but when stale, it becomes black and soft: still a hare is better for being kept a little. The difference between a hare and a leveret is, that a leveret in general has a small bone near the foot on the fore leg, which a hare has not. RABBITS. If an old rabbit, the claws are rough and ‘long, and the fur will be turning grey; but when young the coat is sleek and the claws smooth. If fresh, the flesh will appear white} dry and stiff; but the contrary, when stale. TO CHOOSE FISH. Observe when you choose fish that the gills are of a bright red and stiff, the eye full, and the fins likewise stiff. Always smell under the gills. When you buy fish, provide according to the number to dine. Suppose a salmon, it being both a common, and very good fish. If you have eight or ten to dinner, chuse a salmon, or part of one, weighing twelve pounds; or one of eight pounds, and garnish the dish with small B 6 fried oe a a a TS 12 MARKETING. fried fish, as smelts, small soles, or fillets of any other fish. STURGEONS. The flesh of a good sturgeon is white, the gristles and veins blue, the grain even with a few blue veins, and the skin tender; if hard, tough, and dry, and the gristles yellow and dark, the fish is bad. The smell is pleasant when fresh and good, but very much the reverse if not.- TURBOT. A good turbot is thick and full, the belly of a cream colour, but if flat and of a bluish cast, it is not good. SALMON. _. When salmon is fresh and good, the gills and flesh are of a bright red, the scales clear, and the fish itself stiff. TROUT. This is a fresh water fish, highly esteemed; when good, it is of a flesh colour and the spots very bright; the female is thought the best, and is known by the head being smaller and the body deeper than the male. It is most in season in June. cop. The flesh of a cod should be white, firm,‘ and bright, and the skin on the back dark: if the skin looks pale or yellow, and the flesh is soft, it is not good. ; SKATE. ‘There is some judgment required to dress this fish at a proper time; if too fresh, it is hard and unpleasant to the palate; and when stale, the smell is disagreeable. Therefore it must be kept a MARKETING. a little time, but not long enough to produce an unpleasant smell. When good, it is very white and thick. SOLES. Soles when good are thick and firm, but if bad, they are flabby and have a bluish cast. Plaice and flounders the same. SMELTS. This is an excellent fish when fresh, and it smells very like a cucumber; the scales have a silvery appearance, and the body is very stiff: it is stale, if flabby. | HERRINGS. | If the gills are red, the fish stiff, the scales bright, and the eyes full, the fish is good; butif the reverse, they are bad. ‘The best red herrings are large, firm, and have a yellow cast, they are likewise full of roe. TENCH. This is a fresh water fish. When good, the eyes are bright, the body stiff, and the outside free from slime. It ought to- be dressed alive. ‘The same observations apply to carp. EELS. The best eels have a dark back, and belly a light colour; there is an eel called the silver eel, which is the best; and is generally caught in the Thames. ‘They are mostly in season, except in the hottest months. : WHITINGS. - The silver appearance of the skin, the firmness of the body, and stiffness of the fins, prove this fish bemg good. If dull and soft it is bad. Mackeel the same and must be full. PRAWNS. 14 MARKETING. PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS. Prawns when fresh have bodies of a bright colour and tails stiff. Shrimps come under the same observations, LOBSTERS. When you buy lobsters ready boiled, try if the tatls are stiff, by drawing them out at length and if they return back with a spring, the lobsters are good ; if flabby, they are bad. It is best to buy them alive and boil them yourself . The cock lobster is known by the back part of the tail being narrow, and the two uppermost fins under the tail very stiff. The tail of the hen lobster is broader, and the small under fins are softer than those of the cock. ‘The goodness of a lobster may be known hy weighing it in the hand, The cock is preferred, béing primer and better flavoured. CRABS. If fresh, the joints ef the legs will be stiff and the inside has an agreeable smell. When light they are watery; therefore always choose the | heaviest. ‘They are stale when the eyes look — dead. OYSTERS, There are several kinds of oysters, the Milford, Pyfleet, Colchester, and Milton; the latter is a fine oyster being fatter and whiter, They should not be opened till just before they are eaten or they lose their flavour. The rock oyster is a° larger and coarser kind. Zo promote the digestion of Oysters. [rom the Almanach des Gourmands.] “< A very simple method to accelerate the diges- “* tion of oysters, is to eat some milk porridge im- “* mediately < KITCHEN ACCOUNTS, 15 ** mediately after them, warm milk being an ex- ** cellent dissolvant of this species of shell fish, ** causing it to melt instantly, and thus preventing ‘* its laying on the stomach.” KITCHEN ACCOUNTS, Having given instructions how to choose the different kinds of meat, fowl, and fish; it will be necessary to offer a few hints respecting keeping the kitchen accounts, as that belongs to the head cook, where there is no clerk of the kitchen. Begin by being provided with several small ruled books, according to the number of the trades- men employed ; place the name or profession of each on the cover ; then regularly every Saturday morning deliver them out, at the same time giving each of them orders to have the weekly account entered by Monday morning; at which time they should be returned you. If it happens that the business of the morning prevents you from look- ing then over, leave it till evening, then examine them to see that they are correct, if so, enter them in a large parchment cover book, which is called, “ the Litchen’s weekly expenditure ;”’ this being ruled on each line, write thus ; suppose the butcher first with his weekly account against it, then on the next line the fishmonger, on the next the cheesemonger, &c. having entered each with their respective sums against their profession, then add them together, and it will give you the sum total for the week; this sum must be carried on in the kitchen expenditure from one week to another, so that at the end of the year you will find the whole expense of the kitchen. To prevent all mistakes, it is a good aun to then _ SS a 16 HINTS ON SALTING. number each week on the top of the page where the tradesman writes his bill; thus, for instance, on the first week put No, 1, which must be the same on each book; the next week No. 2 on each book; by which means it will be impossible to make mistakes. The sooner your accounts are ready for inspection, the better, as delaying these kinds of concerns often occasions confusion and loss.’ Having these small books is a much better method than taking in so many bills weekly. SALTING. To salt Beef. To salt Pickled Pork. ee Hung Beef. ——— Hams. Tongues. —_——— ——- smoaked, ——— Leg of Mutton. =e Baeon: =—a—— Pork, Hints. on Salting. It is highly necessary to cut out the kernels of meat to be salted, especially in summer ; there are several in the neck pieces, one in each round, one in the flap, and in the middle of the fat in the thick flank ; besides small bloody veins, these mustbe cut out and the meat wiped dry. If these trifles are neglected in the summer season, salt- ing will be of no.use. Cattle, before itis killed in the winter, should fast twenty-four hours, in the summer double that time ; for if killed when not perfectly cleared of food, the meat soon spoils ; besides it is better to keep the meat three or four days before it is salted, when there are no flies; some imagine that meat while salting re- quires to be greatly rubbed, and that strength is necessary. It is a wrong idea, rub every part well over with salt, cover it well with it, and turn it often. The larger pieces (to a certainty), such as a round, on account of its substance, re- quires HINTS ON SALTING. 17 quires stronger rubbing than the thin flank. Tf you have a large quantity to salt at once, it is some- times necessary (particularly in summer) to haye « brine to cover the meat, made thus: put a good quantity of salt into a large copper kettle on the fire, fill it about three parts with water; when it begins to boil, skim it well, and put in an ege; if it swims on the top, the brine is strong enough, if ‘not, add more salt, till the egg will swim; then take it off the fire, and when cold, pour it into the salting trough, into which put the meat. The trough should either be lined with lead, or of solid stones the latter is the best. Wood wil do, but it neither looks so well nor can be kept so clean as the two I have mentioned. TO.SALT BEEF, The pieces of beef for salting consist of two rounds, two rumps, flanks, brisket, ische-bone, veiny-piece, and blade-bone every part of these pieces should be rubbed well with good white salt, and laid close together in the brine; remember. to turn them every other day. The thin, small pieces of course are used first, as they will be ready sooner than the larger, HUNG BEEF. Take either a round of beef or the navel piece cut in two or three pieces, and let it hang up for five or six days till rather stale, then take it down and wash it in sugar and water; when so far prepared, take two pounds of dry bay salt, and one of saltpetre finely pounded, mix them well together with three table-spoonsfull of brown sugar, with which rub your beef well all over, set it close ina pan, and cover it with common salt, in which let it lie’ for eight days; then turn it 18 HINTS ON SALTING. ‘it every other day for ten days longer: after that dry it, spinkle it vith flour, and hang it up ina warm place (but not hot) for a fortnight; when you wish to boil it, set it on in cold pump water, with a little bay salt, let it boil very gently, till tender, then take it out to cool. It will keep well when boiled, for a month or two. It makes a good dish for supper, either cut into slices, or grated and it serves to slice for breakfast. TONGUES, Having well wiped your tongues with a dry cloth, salt them with common salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, and a table-spoonfull of brown sugar. Then set them close in a pan, and turn them every day for a week, salt them over again, and let them lie ten days longer. Then take them out, dry, flour them, and hang them up in a dry place. The fresher they are used the better. LEG OF MUTTON. Take a leg of wether-mutton, of about twelve pounds weight; and let it hang for two or three days. Then take half a pound of common salt, the same of bay, two ounces of saltpetre, and half a pound of brown sugar; the whole being well mixed, put itin astewpan and make it hot, then take the mutton and rub it well in. Lay it in a pan, and turn it every day for six days, then rub it again with a couple of handsfull of common salt; in ten days take it out, dry it, shake it over with flour, and hang it over wood smoke for ten days or more. PORK. | The pieces mostly used for salting of a young porker are the springs (which is the shoulder ) piece HINTS ON SALTING. 19 and ears; the necks and loins are usually roasted without salting, so sometimes are the legs. For this purpose use common salt, with about four ounces ofsaltpetre, for one porker, rub the pork all over with it, and lay it in the salting tub. In about five or six days it will be ready for use. Dress the springs first, as of course they take the salt soonest. - PICKLED PORK. Sprinkle the pork well with salt, and let it drain twenty-four hours, then finely pound four ounces of saltpetre, an ounce of salt-prunella, a little common salt, and three quarters of a pound of brown sugar: these being well mixed, rub your pork, place it very close in a deep tub, filling up the cavities with common salt, with which cover it well ; put a cover made to go in- side the tub close on the pork, with heavy weights on it, that it may not swim in the pickle. If the air is totally excluded, it will keep perfectly good for above a year. HAMS. For three hams, pound and mix together half a peck of salt, half an ounce of salt-prunella, three ounces of saltpetre, and four pounds of course salt; rub the hams well with this, and lay what you have to spare over them.; let them lay in three days, and then hang them up. Take the pickle in which the hams were, put water enough to cover the hams with more common salt, till it will bear an ege (as directed for brine for salt beef), then boil and skim it well ; put it in the salting tub, and the next morning put in the hams ; keep them down the sameas pickled pork ; in a fortnight take them out of the liquor, rub C them 920 HINTS ON SALTING. them well with bran and hang them up to dry. Before you hang them up they may be rubbed over with flour. HAMS SMOKED. Take two ounces of salt-prunella, beat it fine, rub it into a couple of hams, and let them lie four and twenty hours. Then take a quarter of a pound of common salt, half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of brown salt, with half a pound of eoarse sugar; mix these well together, and rub them well into the hams, and let them lie three days. Then makea brine the same as for salt beef, only with the addition of half a pound of brown sugar ; boil and skim it well, when cold put in the hams, and turn them in the pickle every two days for three weeks. ‘Then hang them up in a chimney, where there is wood and straw smoke, for a week or ten days ; afterwards hang them in a dry place, the same as the other hams. BACON. Having cut off the hams of the pig, cut it down the middle and take out the chine bone; then salt the bacon well with common salt, anda little saltpetre, letting it lie on a table or slab ten days, that the’ brine may run from it; then salt it again, and turn it every day (after the second salting) for twelve days longer. Scrape it very clean, rub it again over with salt, then hang it up. When any white froth appears, wipe it off and rub the place with salt, which will prevent it from rusting. BOILING, 21 BOILING, Te boil Beef To boil Leg of Lamh _ PRON SWCS Ree gag eect ree of Pork Leg of Mutton ——— Ham — — ——-—— another ——— Bacon way ——— Pigs Feet and Ears -——-— Neck of Veal ——— Cow-heel, Having given directions respecting boiling poultry, fish, vegetables, &c. the following re- ceipts are directions for plain and large joints only, as beef, mutton, veal, lamb and pork ; which are better put into cold water, observing to take off all the scum as it rises, otherwise the meat when done, will look dark coloured, and particles of the scum will hang about it. The meat must boil very gently by the side of the fire; in short, it cannot boil too slowly; the time a joint takes boiling depends on its size, the general allowance is twenty minutes for every pound, but that must not always be depended on. Vegetables proper to boil with meat are only carrots or parsnips with beef, or turnips with mutton. After the meat is boiled and taken out, vegetables, scraps of meat, or spare bread, may be put into the water, which will make excellent broth for the poor. While the meat is boiling, always keep it covered. | BEEF. Take a round of beef, well salted for eight or ten days (cut out the bone), and soak it in cold water for two or three hours; wrap it neatly round, and tie it close with tape; put it in the water while cold, skim it, whenever any scum rises, and keep it boiling very gently till done. A piece of beef weighing twenty pounds, will c 2 take 99 "BOILING. take nearly four hours, it may be served garnish- ed with carrots. Stop the ends of the bone with paste, to prevent the marrow running out, boil it with the beef, and serve it on a plate with toasted bread. TONGUE. A tongue that has not been dried requires very little soaking, if dried it must lay in water three - or four hours, then put it into cold water, and boil it gently till very tender. LEG OF MUTTON. Chuse a leg of mutton rather fat and white, _ chop off the shank bone, and cut the skin at the back of the knuckle; put it into cold water, boil it gently, and skim it well till done; it will take about two hours and a half; serve it garnished with mashed turnips, (see Vegetables) or with caper sauce. (See Sauces). Another way to boil a Leg of Mutton. [From the Almanach des Gourmands.] “¢ Take a leg of mutton, wrap it up very tight ina clean linen cloth, and put it into a saucepan of boiling water, taking care that it is large enough to hold it; keep up a constant ebullition, and when it has been ina sufficient time, which the size must determine, serve it up without any other seasoning. It ought to boil as many quar- ters of an hour as it weighs pounds.” ' NECK OF VEAL. Take a fine white neck of veal, chop off the chine bone, sprinkle it with flour, put it in cold water, skim it well, and boil it very gently ; when en ee BOILING. 98 when, done, serve it with parsley and butter, oyster sauce (see Sauces) or garnished with tongue or ham. LEG OF LAMB. If you have some plain mutton broth, it will be best, if not, water will do; put in the lamb, skim it, and let it boil gentiy for three quarters of an hour, at which time (if not very large) it will be done, serve it garnished with spinage, plain or dressed, with stewed peas, or asparagus, peas stewed: see Vegetables. The loin may be made into cutlets, fried and garnished round, if you think proper. LEG OF PORK. Take a leg of pork that has been in salt a week or ten days, put it to soak in cold water for an hour or Jess; then set it on in cold water and let it boil very "gently for two hours, if about five pounds weight, or more or less according to its size, then serve it garnished with peas pudding, as directed for legs pe: pork dressed; vide Tad. HAM. Procure a good ham, chop off the end of the hock and the under bone, so that it may lay even on the dish ; put it to soak for twelve hours; take it out of the water, and with a knife scrape it well till perfectly clean, then set it on in a kettle of cold water, to boil very gently ; a mo- derate sized ham will take about.four hours ; when done trim the skin off neatly, glaze it and serve it garnished with spinage or any other vegetable, This goes well with boiled chickens. The more hams you boil together the better their flavour, c 3 if D4 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. BACON. If you are so situated as to kill your own hogs, it will be proper to observe, that the fat parts, such as the back, should always be kept for jarding, or laying over poultry or game; and the lean for boiling, which must be always soak- ed, scraped clean, and the rust if any cut off, then boil it very gently till well done; cut off the rind and serve it either garnished with green pease, beans, or cabbage, or without; a piece of veal, or boiled fowl, should always be served up with it. PIGS FEET AND EARS, AND COW-HEEL. The feet and ears being salted with the other salting parts, for eight or ten days, must be soaked in water for a short time; then put it on to boil very gently in a large saucepan of soft water with nearly a quart of milk, when very tender they are done enough, this will be in about three hours. Cow-heel may be boiled the same, except that salt must be added, and four or five large onions, which are served with them. DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. To truss Fowls, To truss Moor Fowl, ———— Turkies, — Woodcocks and — Turkey Poults, Snipes, Pheasants and Par- ———-— Larks, Wheatears, and small Birds, tridges, — Pigeons, ——_—— Hares, — Geese, —--— Rabbits, Ducks. ———— Swans. FOWLS. The fowl being well picked and singed, bruize the bone close to the foot, and draw the strings out of the thigh ; then cut a slit in the back of the neck, and carefully take out the crop without breaking ANILO DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSINQR??"" O°" breaking it; cut off the neck close to the back, and likewise cut the skin, but leave enough to turn over the back; then cut off the vent, and take out the inside without breaking the gall; break the back-bone and the two bones leading to the pinions, wipe the fowl with a cloth, and put a little pepper and saltin it; then begin to truss it thus: press the legs close down on the apron, through which runaskewer; take another skewer and put it through the joint of the wing, body and wing on the other side, and the same through the liver, being washed, and the gizzard well cleaned ; place them in the pinions. If for boiling, cut the under part of the thigh near the joint, and put the legs under the apron, with only the ends to be seen; observe to keep the breast as full as possible. The surest way to prevent the fowl losing its shape is to tie a string across the back, from the point to the head of each of the skewers. : TURKIES. Truss the turkey after the same manner as di- rected for fowls, and always observe to put some good stuffing (the same as for fillet of veal) in the part from which the crop was taken, it being roasted or boiled. TURKEY POULTS. , These.must be drawn and trussed in the same manner as a turkey, except leaving the head on, which turns under the pinions with the bill point- ing outwards. PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES, Being well picked and singed, cut a slit in the back of the neck, and take out the crop without cA breaking W A 26 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. breaking it; then cut off the vent, and draw out the inside, which after wiping well put in a little pepper and salt mixed with a bit of butter. Hav- ing cleansed them, proceed to truss them, by first cutting off the pinion at the first joint, so the feathers need not to be picked oft that part; break the back-bone, and truss them the same as a fowl by pressing the legs close to the apron, then turn the birds on the breast, and run a skewer through the end of the pinion, the leg, ‘the body and the leg, and pinion on the other side, with the head fixed on the end of the skew- er; over the breast lay a bard of fat bacon, which tie on with packthread. If for boiling or stew- ing, truss them the same as a fowl for boiling. PIGEONS. These birds are drawn in the same manner as fowls, except that the livers are left in, as a pigeon has no gall; skewer them the same, with stuffing as for fillet of veal, put where the crop was taken out. ; GEESE. The goose being well picked and stubbed, cut off the pinions at the first joint, and the feet also. Make a slit in the back of the neck, and take out the throat, cut off the neck close to the back and the skin, but leave enough to turn over the back ; make a slit between the vent and rump, through which draw out the entrails, then wipe it clean. Draw the legs up, keeping them close to the side, then put a skewer into the wing through the mid- dle of the leg, body, and the leg and wing on the other side ; put another through the smail of the leg, which keep close to the sidesmen, run it through, DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. gi. through, and do the same on the other side. Cut through the end of the vent, through which put the rump, to prevent the stuffing falling out. DUCKS. Ducks are arranged like geese, except when trussed; leave the feet on, and turn them up close to the legs. MOOR FOWL. Observe the manner of treating partridges and pheasants for these birds; sometimes a piece of bread fried brown in good butter is served un- der them. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. When these birds are picked they should be handled as little as possible, because the skin is very tender, and if broken spoils the beauty of the bird. Then cut off the pinions at the first joint, the legs press close to the side, through which and the body pierce the beak of the bird, then cross the feet and lay a bard of bacon over the breast. These birds and snipes are never drawn. . LARKS, WHEATEARS, AND SMALL BIRDS. Being picked, cut off the pinions at the first joint, draw out the inside, turn the feet close to the legs and entwine one in the other ; then run a long skewer through the middle of the bodies of as many as you intend to dress, and tie them on the spit. HARES. Having chopped off the four feet at the first joint, raise the skin off the back, and draw it over the hind legs, leaving the tail whole, then draw the skin over the back, and slip out the fore e5 legs, © 98 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. legs, very gently cut it off the neck and head, but leave the earson. Take out the liver and lights, and clean the vent. Take the hind legs, cut the under sinews, and bring them up to meet the fore legs, then run a skewer through one hind leg, the body and the hind leg on the other side, and do the same with the fore legs, then put the stuffing in; tie a string round the body and over the legs, to keep them in their place. The head must be skewered back by running a skewer through the mouth, the back of the head, and between the shoulders. When the hare is roasted. (See Roasting.) | RABBITS. Observe the rules for skinning and trussing hares, except in skinning rabbits cut off the ears, and if two together are roasted, skewer each head against the shoulders outwards, with four or five skewers through the bodies, to fasten them well to the spit. SWANS. Truss it the same as a goose, served with sauce in a boat. (See Sauces.) DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. To carve Round of Beef, To carve Hams, ———— Brisket, “~---—— Haunch of Venison, ———— Sirloin, — Fish, —-=-——— Beef Tongue, ee Fowls, reeas Eillet of Veal: — Turkies and Turkey 7 - Breast of ditto, Poults, “e — Leg of Mutton, —_ Pheasants and Par- _ Shoulder of ditto, tridges, ‘———— Neck of ditto, re, Piscons, ———— Saddle of ditto, — Geese, —-——-— Fore quarter of Lamb, ———— Ducks, Sere fies women Moor Fowl, sem Spare-rib of Pork, DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 99 To .carve Woodcocks and To carve Hares, Snipes, —=——— Rabbits, wwe Larks, Wheatears, —-—-—— Swans. and small Birds, ROUND OF BEEF, Cut aslice off the top first, as that in general is dry, and loses its flavour in the boiling, then (a slice off the whole round being too much to help to at once) ask which side is preferred, which ac- cordingly give, with a portion of the side fat and, if there is any, udder. Always endeavour to cut as even as possible, that the joint may have a good appearance when cold. BRISKET OF BEEF. This part is always boiled. It must be cut length-ways down to the bone; lay the first cut aside, for it should not be offered to any one, unless they prefer it. The fat in the slices is rather gristly, underneath is some more mellow. SIRLOIN OF BEEF. The meat on the upper side is much firmer than on the under which is very tender, and preferred by many persons ; but there is no par- ticular rule to carve it, some preferring it near the end, or in the middle, and others the under side ; but it is advisable to cut the slices tolerably thin. BEEF TONGUE. The most rich and juicy part is about two inches from the root, at which part you should begin to cut thin slices. Towards the tip it is much drier. FILLET OF VEAL. This must be cut as a round of beef, being the same part of a calfas of an ox, that is, the thigh. c 6 Some 30 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. Some prefer the outside cut, as the most savoury, but as many do not it is necessary to ask which part they prefers With every slice of meat give a Slice of stuffing, which is put under the skirt or flap, with a little of the fat. Be careful to cut even. BREAST OF VEAL. First divide the gristles from the ribs; the gristles are in general called the brisket; cut them in several pieces at the joints, and divide the ribs ; before you-help any person, enquire which they most prefer, as some fancy the brisket, and others the ribs; if there is any sweetbread give a piece to each person you help, with some stuffing, which is under the skin on the ribs. LEG OF MUTTON. The proper method of carving this joint is to cut through the thickest part down to the bone, at the same time you will cut through the kernel of fat, which is called the pope’s eye. This many people take, some prefer the shank which is‘much drier and coarser than any other part of the joint. A leg of wether mutton is the best flavoured, and is known by a small round lump‘of fat on the top of the thick part. Whe- ther boiled or roasted carve it the same. SHOULDER OF MUTTON. This joint by many is preferred to the leg (though not so profitable) as it has several fine cuts in it, and is much more juicy than a leg. Place your knife in the hollow part, and cut it down to the bone, the parts cut will immediately open wide enough to take several slices from it. The best fat is on the outer edge and should be cut DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. Sl ‘cut in thin slices. When the hollow part is cut away, begin to cut on each side of the ridge of — the blade bone; under the shoulder towards the broad end there are some good pieces, which some prefer. The knuckle is coarse and dry like the leg, still it is often preferred by some. NECK OF MUTTON. There is no great difficulty in cutting this piece when it is well jointed (which it always should be), itis only to divide each bone. The fat end is the most esteemed, though some prefer the lean end. SADDLE OF MUTTON. This joint consists of the two loins undivided, and as the back bone runs down the middle, long slices are taken on each side, which is the fleshy part; there are also two small fillets un- derneath, which are cut lengthways like the other; these are much more tender and are often preferred. FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. This joint is always roasted, and before it comes to table, the shoulder is cut off, and the juice of alemon or Seville orange squeezed on the cut part ; proceed to carve the shoulder as if mutton, and separate the neck from ihe breast, which part is the most esteemed. But always ask whether shoulder, neck or breast, is prefer- red ; if either of the latter, help to two ribs or a couple of bones from the neck. ! PIG. Before it is sent to table the head is cut off, and split down the back, the head likewise split in two is laid on each side. Then sepa- rate §2 : DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. rate the shoulders and legs from the body; then divide the ribs, the most delicious part is near to the neck, next is the ribs; in short of a youne pig, every part is a delicacy; but some still prefer One part, some another; therefore it is always necessary to inquire. : SPARE-RIB OF PORK. First cut some slices from the thick part at the bottom of the bones, then separate the bones, which are in general preferred being very sweet picking, | HAMS. The most proper way of carving a ham is to cut it through the middle to the bone, and be careful that the slices are very thin; some begin to cut near the knuckle, and others at the thick end. But the middle is the prime part, and hand- some slices are easily taken from it. HAUNCH OF VENISON, Cut it across down to the bone, a short distance from the knuckle, then from the centre of that cut, take another as deep as you can- length- ways, from which place you may take as many slices as you please. It will form a kind of letter T. Venison should not be cut either too thick or too thin; when you help any person be sure to give plenty of gravy, which had better be served in a boat, as it quickly cools. A neck of yenison is carved in the same manner as. a neck of mutton, FIsH. There is no particular directions for fish; the best mode is easily attained by a little practice, Of a salmon cut a small slice across down to the bene, which will contain some of the back and belly DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. —— $3 belly. Of a turbot, enter your fish slice in the centre over the back bone, the thickest part is most esteemed. Soles whether boiled or fried, cut across through the bone. .Mackerel, slice it along the side, but do ‘not begin too near the gills, as it is often ill-flavoured ; do not fail to help each person to some of the roe. Carp, tench and whitings, and others of the same form, are sliced on the side. Eels are cut through the bone in several pieces according to its size, the thickest part is most esteemed. FOWLS. First loosen the legs, then cut off the wings, next the merry-thought, then take off both the legs atthe joints; the carcase now only remain- ing, lay it on one side and cut through the tender ribs to separate the back bone from the breast; place the back bone upwards and fix the fork under the rump, press the edge of the knife on the back, lift up the lower part of the back, and you will find it readily divide; then cut off the side bones from the lower part of the back, (which are generally called sidesmen). The fowl is now completely cut up. TURKIES AND TURKEY POULTS.. Carve them by cutting several thin slices from the breast, then cut off the pinions and legs at the jomts, and finish them in the same manner as a fowl. Turkey poults the same as a fowl, if there are two roasted one should be larded. PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES. ‘To carve these observe the manner of fowls.» PIGEONS. To carve them, cut them down the breast and through 34 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. through the back, which will be divided into halves. GEESE. Take off both the legs and the belly piece at the extremity of the breast, cut a piece on each side about half an inch from the sharp bone; di- vide the pinions, cut off the merry-thought, and another slice from each side of the breast bone ; then turn the goose on one side, and cut it through to separate the breast bone from the back, the latter divide hy cutting it above the Joins. When you help to goose, give some of the stuffing. After goose a small glass of brandy will have a good effect upon some stomachs. DUCKS. When roasted cut off the wings, loosen the legs and merry-thought, and divide the back from the breast. They are sometimes stuffed with sage and onion. Wild-ducks, widgeons and teels, are arranged in the same manner. MOOR FOWL. Observe the manner of carving partridges and pheasants for these birds ; sometimes a piece of bread fried brown in good butter served under them. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. These carve like fowls or pigeons, the head must be opened, as some like the brains. LARKS, WHEATEARS AND SMALL BIRDS. These being so small require no carving, as one or two is not too much to help at once. HARES. Begin to carve thus, put the point of your knife under the shoulder and cut to the rump, then DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 35 then do the same on the other side; by this me- thod the body then will be divided in three, then cut the back through the spine in five or six pieces, this is mostly esteemed the tenderest and most juicy; separate the legs from the back bone, the meat of which is closer and not so juicy as the back; cut off the shoulders, these are in general full of blood, 6n which account some prefer them to any other part; others prefer the head and brains, which must be divided as fol- lows; having cut the head at the joint in the neck, take off the ears, as some prefer them, then place it on a plate and hold it firm with a fork in one hand, with the other force the point of your knife between the ears down to the nose, the head may then be easily divided; but this method will only serve when the hare is young; if otherwise cut slices down the back, take off the legs at the joints, and cut slices from them, a leg being too much for one person. The head is cut off and split, but it requires more strength and exactness in effecting it. RABBITS. Carve them by cutting off the legs and shoul- ders (which are in general called wings), then place your knife at the top of the back between the shoulders, and cut down to the rump, it then will be divided, cut it across in three or four pieces. The head should be cut off and split before it is sent to table. If a very young rab- bit it only need be cut across, not down the back. SWANS. Cut slices from the breast, or split it equally down the middle; serve the sauce in a boat. (See Sauces). 36 DINNER TABLEs, TABLE FOR TWELVE—First Course. $9 Vegetable Soup. YP Remove. 0 Turbot, boiled. aoe 3 Petits Patés of Sweet- (~~) Cutlets of Mutton, i ‘@ with ‘Purnips. Fern bread. nf Chickens, &la Macé- ‘Ham, glacé aux Epi- : » 8 es] } ~ I { doine. C) ( i nards. | ly Salmis of Partridge. oe ; Fillets of Rabbits, a la Maréchale. Vermicelli Soup, ala S) Remove. purée de céleri. Soles, fried. SIDE TABLE. Saddle of Mutton, a Fillet of Veal, i Sey ey Game Pie. Pudding. Cold Fowl. Vegetables. a OR BILLS OF FARE. «97 TABLE FOR TWELVE-—Second Course. Chickens, roasted. _ , Remove. Géteauz Madeleine, Or ange Jelly. fe - Mushrooms alacréme, Petits Bouches. 5 Gateaux de Boulogne. Cauliflowers. } Charlotte‘of Apples. firouse, roasted: Remove, Souffle ala Reine, 2 38 DINNER TABLES, TABLE FOR SIXTEEN—Fivst Course. Soup & la Reine. oe GS) Remove. vA. eee? Piece of Sturgeow yoasted, Volau Vent of Vege- Rissoles ala d’Artoise. tables. A Blanquette of Chick- en with Cucumbers. Pigeons ala Lune. \ Wild Ducks 3 PO- : range, gee Fillets of Rabbits in a an Cutlets of Lamb em Epigramme. Neck of Veal 4 la | Créme. | Fillets of Soles sautés, & & la Maitre d’Hotel. Casserole of Rice with Marinade, fried. ‘} a Ragoit. Potage a la Julienne.

Remove. =e Turbot boiled. a aeeanenannaneneeemeiaenennenin ate Sips TABLE. Leg of Mutton, roasted. Round of Beef, boiled. Ham, — Raised Pie. Fowl. Pudding. Vegetables, OR BILLS OF FARE. 39 TABLE FOR SIXTEEN—Second Course, Pheasant reasted. Remove. Gateaux ala Crémne. Peas 4 la Frangoise. a tars Spinage. a LC Miroton of Apples. Tartelettes melle.— Savoy Biscuit. — Remove to Remove to Peach Jelly. Partridges roasted. Hare roasted. Italian Sallad with Lobsters. Cs) Orange Flower Cream. Celery stewed a la Créme. (a 3 French Beans, (apon roasted. Remove. Souglé au Fromage. a Se Ea A LT TES NCTM IEE "= : f | ib AO DINNER TABLES, TABLE FOR TWENTY—First Course. Soup Lorraine. ricassee of Chickens. Petiis Patés of Oys- ters. Cutlets of Mutton in a Harricot. Rice Soup with a pu- rée of carrots.— Removed with a Fowl and Truffles. Hare en salmis, in an open Pye, Fillets of shia) fried. Fillets of Hsin. sau- tés a la Vénitienne, To remove tke Soup. on) =, 3S O x O US Ae —~, Dt O 2 O US Asparagus Soup. Remove. Salmon Trouts boiled. Sweetbreads with Tarragon Sauce. Fillets of Partridge, grillés a Vaspic. Collops of Cod 4 la Créme. Potage a la Jardiniére. Removed with Stewed Beef aia Ma- réechuie, Pigeons in a Compote. Cammelon a la Lux-. embourg. he Mince Veal a la Por- tugaise. iss Lurbot boiled, garnished with fried Smelt. SIDE TABLE. Saddle of Mutton, Sirloin of Beef, Loin of Veal. Ham a l’aspie. Game Pie. ¢ roasted, Pig’s Head with Trufiles, Brawn. Oysters. Pudding. Vegetables, OR BILLS OF FARE. Al TABLE FOR TWENTY—Second Course. Dati wad ar ¢ Remote. Partridges roasted. aa Fondues of Cheese. Tears Danes ius 3 Peas a la Bourgeoise. a oa Preush Boe Pine Jelly. % Be oO hy Tart with Italian Sallad with a cy Cherry Pudding with Sturgeon. Marasquin. Hare roasted.— ay | Small Chickens roast. Removed with E) wy | en Patés de Genoisse, emoved with Petits choux, garnis, Omelet. ve ae Eggs and Anchovies in savoury Jelly, Pade oC ‘oy Strawberry Cream. Cauliflowers. 1s ; Lx Artichokes a l’Itali- enne,. Black Cocks roasted, oO ves Tee Ay etits choux alad’ Ara totse. 42 DINNER TABLES, DINNER FOR SIX. Flemish Soup, Removed with a Loin of Veal ala Béchamelle..- Fillets of chickens, & | Calves’ Brains en Ma- . Pécarlate. | _ telotte. Soles fried, ‘ Removed with Partridge and Red Cabbage. Guinea Fowl roasted, Removed with a Currant Tart. Eggs a la Bourgui- | Asparagus in Peas, gnot. stewed. Hare roasted, Removed with a Soufflé of Rice. _ Side Table. Saddle of Mutton roasted. Game Pie. Pudding. Cold Roast Beef. Vegetables. DINNER FOR TEN, Spring Soup, Removed with young Chickens and Cauliflowers. Petits Patés de Godi-.| Fillets of Salmon, with veau. - arragon Sauce Blanquette of Fowl, | Minced Mutton, with with Trufiles. Cucumbers. Carp stewed with wine, Removed with a Leg of Lamb and Asparagus Peas. a OR BILLS OF FARE. AS Ducklings roasted, Removed with Strawberry Cream . in.a Limbale. Cherry Jelly. . Peas. Mushrooms au Crouton. Savoy Biscuit. Pigeons roasted, —- _ Removed with petits Choux Meringues. Side Table. Piece of Beef roasted. Game Pie. Fowl. Ham. Pudding. Vegetables. ee ees eee BOOK il, SOUPS. Consommeé, or Jelly Broth. Espagnole. Beef Stock. Portable Soup, or Glaze. Glaze for glazing Meat. ‘Turtle Soup. Nageoires de Tortue, or the 'Turtle-fins. Mock Turtle, or Calves-head Soup. Potage & la Jambe de Bois, from the Almanach des Gour- mands. ——— aux Légumes, or Vegetable Soup. ——— a la Jardiniére, or Garden Soup. a la Julienne. a l’Hochepot. ——-— aux Navets, or Turnip Soup. ~——_——— a la Purée de Céleri, or Celery Soup. aux Laitues, or Lettuce Soup. ——-——— 4 la Chicorée, or Endive Soup. D4 Potage SE a LL Potage 4 l’Angloise, or English Soup. —-—— du Printemps, or Spring Soup. — a la Purée de Laitues, or Lettuce Soup. ala Purée de Pois verds, or Green Peas Soup. ala Purse de Pois for winter. ; ——— 4 la Queensberry. au Faubonne. ———— de Printanier. ala Purée de Lentilles, or Lentile Soup. au Riz, or Rice Soup. ——— au Vermicelli, or Vermicelli Soup. Soupe a la Reine. —————— Lorraine. Potage au Vermicelli 4 l’Allemande, or Vermicelli Soup a V Allemande. Pay - au Vermicelli 4 la Reine. au Riz a la Reine, or Rice Soup a la Reine. ——— a la Purée d’Oseille, or Sorrel Soup. a l’Espagnole, or Spanish Soup. ——— a la Frangoise, or French Soup. & la Bourgeoise, or Citizen’s Soup. Soupe de Santé, or Health Soup. —alVIvrogne, or Drunkards’ Soup. Potage aux Asperges, or Asparagus Soup. ala Purée de Gibier, or Game Soup. ala Court-bouillon. ——— aux Oignong Blancs, or White Onion Soup. a la Sainte Ménéhould. ——-— 4 la Flamande, or Flemish Soup. de l’Esturgeon, or Sturgeon Soup. ——-— d’Ecrevisses, or Cray-fish Soup. To make a Coulis of Cray-fish au Gras. and au Maigre. Preliminary Hints and Observations. Ler great care be taken that the stock: pots and covers are kept perfectly clean and well tinned, not only the inside, but about an inch down the edge on the outside of each pot or stewpan, as it will be a sure preventive of any bad efleets from the copper. Never let the consommé, stock, or soups, or any other liquid stand for any space of time in the stewpans; if through neglect or . any other cause this should happen, be careful 7 Baits always ee come SOUPS, 45 always to put the contents into another vessel before they are put on the fire, and take off all the scum that rises on the top, before and while it is boiling. -. The two or three first receipts should be at- tentively observed, as on those depend the fine taste of all the sauces, soups, &c. then follows several kinds of soups both clear and in purée. ye CONSOMME, OR JELLY BROTH. Prepare this with a leg or shoulder of veal and an old fowl, except you have any trimmings of chicken which will answer the same purpose. Chop the joint of veal in pieces and wash it well; put a very little water at the bottom of the stock pot, and put in the veal with the bones, next to the bottom: to about fourteen pounds of veal and an old fowl put two good carrots, three middling sized onions, and half a pound of Jean* ham ; keep it stirring over a moderate fire, and shake it often that it may not stick to the bot- tom; when the liquor gets thick and appears like a glaze it is ready to put hot water into. Cover your meat about four inches; when it begins te boil skim it well, and put in a bunch of well washed parsley; then let it boil gently by the side of the stove, and skim it when you perceive it necessary. When the meat comes from the bone and appears stringy, pass the consommé through a siik sieve intoa pan for that purpose, it is then ready for use; your sauce tournée you will see in Sauces, or clear transparent soups, white soups, as @ la reine, or a la lorraine, or clear aspic jellies, and several other things it is used for, whieh you will find in different parts of this work. : nS Put 46 SouPS. ESPAGNOLE. Put this on after the same manner as the cori- sommé, except that more ham, a few pepper- corns, and a very little spice with a clove of gar- lick must be added; let this stew over a moderate fire, and shake it often till it takes a brown colour, then put water to it as to a consommé, and when ready run it through a sieve in the same manner. You must mix this in the same as for the sauce tournée, being brown it serves for the brown sauces, which are called espagnole ; or if you wish the soup to be a higher colour than usual, put half of this and half of consommé ; but this is only necessary where there is company, and you perceive that several dishes in your bill of fare require brown sauces. ¥ ; BEEF STOCK. “This is made from the legs, shin, and scrags of beef, or any bones that are to spare. Chop them into pieces, wash them, and put them ina Jarge pot on the fire filled half with cold and half with hot water; it must be closely attended to when it begins to boil, in order to take off the scum; then set it on one side of the stove to boil gently, and put in three or four carrots well scraped and washed, onions, parsley, pepper- corns, salt, and one clove of garlick; put the cover on and mind to skim it when wanted ; When the meat is done to pieces, run it through the sieve the same as a consommé. This serves for plain hachis, or to reduce to glaze for your vege- table soups, butter sauces, &c. if required. PORTABLE SOUP, OR GLAZE. Take a consommé espagnole, or beef stock, (cither ne ee «oem h Bo ene Ser cat “comnann SS | eeeens SOUPS. | AM - (either of which you mean to make into a glaze), and take the fat off the top. Put it ina large pan and set it over a clear fire to boil quick, taking great care to skim it; when it thickens run it through a silk sieve into a smaller stewpan, and set it over the fire again with a wooden spoon in it; continue stirring till it is reduced to the thickness of sauces in general, then pour it into pots for use. Mind that your fire be very gen- tle, or it will burn. If you set veal or chicken on with an intent to make the whole of it ina glaze, it had better not be stewed, but proceed as for beef stock. | x A GLAZE FOR HAM, VEAL, OR ANY KIND OF MEAT. Take the braize in which a neck of veal & la saint-garat has been stewed, reduce it as portable soup, and put it into pots; when some is wanted for use cut a piece out, put it in a small stewpan with a bit of butter, and a little broth of any kind, merely to keep it from burning; put a brush into it and stir it by the fire till dissolved, then with the brush glaze the ham, cutlets, or whatever else is wanted, set it ina bain marie if wanted again, to keep liquid. If you should happen to have none of this braize, set some meat on after the same manner. TURTLE SOUP. The day before you dress a turtle chop the herbs and make the forcemeat, then on the preceding evening suspend the turtle by the two hind fins with a cord; and put one round the neck with a heavy. weight attached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be + fs) 48 SOUPS. off with more ease, otherwise you stand a chance of breaking your knife; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood will be well drained from the body. ‘Then early in the morn- ing, having your stoves and plenty of hot water ready, take the turtle, lay it on the table on its back, and with a strong ni knife cut all round the under shell (which is the ‘callipée) ; there are joints at each end, which must be care- fully found, gentiy separate it from the callipash (which is the upper Shell) ; be careful in cutting out the gut that you do not break the gall. When the callipée and callipash are perfectly separated, take out part of the gut that leads from the throat, that with the three hearts put into a bason of water by themselves; the other interior part put away. Take the callipée, and cut off the meat which adheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twenty pounds of veal, chop it up, and set it on in a large pot, az before directed for espagnole, putting the flesh of the turtle in at the same time, with all kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of lean ham, pepper-corns, salt, a lit- tle spice, and two bay leaves, leaving it to stew till it takes the colour of espagnole; put the fins (the skins being scalded off) and hearts in half an hour before you fill it, with half water and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch of parsley and let it boil gently, like consommé. While the turtle is stewing carefully scald the head, the callipée, and all that is soft of the callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest particle of skin that might remain ; put them with the gut into a large pot of water, to -_ - —_ 7 o_o SOUPS. 49 _ to boil till tender; when so, take them out and cut them in squares, putting them in a bason by themselves till wanted for the soup. ‘The next thing is the thickening, which must be prepared in the same manner as sauce tournée (See Sauces). The turtle being well done, take out the fins and ltearts and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass threugh a sieve into a large pan, then with a clean ladle take off all the fat, put it intoa bason, then mix in the turtle liquor (little at a time) with the thickening made th same as sauce tournée; but it does not require, neither must it be, one twentieth part so thick ; set it over a brisk fire, and continue to stir it till it boils; when it has boiled two hours, being skimmed all the while, squeeze it through the tammy into another large stewpan, stir it on the fire, and stir it as before till it boils; when it has boiled gently for one hour, put in the calli- pée and callipash, with the gut, hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares, with the forcemeat balis and herbs, which you wiil have ready chopped and stewed in espagnole (the herbs are parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram, basil, savory, and a few chop- ped mushrooms if you have them). It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a half before dinner put in a bottle anda half of Madeira wine and nearly halfa bottle of brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it; then take a bason, put a little cayenne pepper into it, with the. juice of six lemons squeezed through a sieve. When the dinner is wanted skim the turtle, stir it well up, _@nd pat in a little salt if necessary, then stir - tue 50 SOUPS, the eayenne and lemen juice, and ladle it inte the tureen. This receipt will answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds. NAGEOIRES DE TORTUE, OR THE TURTLE FINS. These being stewed: with the turtle, as in the last receipt, make.a dish of them alone, by put- ting them in a stewpan with some good strong espagnoie, and some madeira or port wine, in which let them boil gently till the rawness is off the wine; then squeeze in some lemon juice: lay them in a dish with a paste border round the edge (for which see Pastry); garnish them with forcemeat, either in balls or lengths, and pour. the sauce over the whole. They may be served with an italienne, tarragon, or any other sauce : the inside flesh of the turtle, which has the ap- pearance of chicken, may be larded and treated as a fricandeau of veal. CALVES HEAD SOUP, OR MOCK TURTLE. Take a white calf’s head, with the hair well scalded off; split it in two, and boil it in plenty of water till very tender; then take all the meat from the bones, with the white skin, and cut it in squares like the turtle meat. Make a thicken. ing the same as for turtle, which mix with good strong espagnole; boil it in the same manner, and put in the herbs, forcemeat, wine, &c.; in short, finish it after the receipt for turtle. POTAGE A LA JAMBE DE Bols. [Che following potage is from the Almanach des Gourmands: it may be served with a small dinner, but being so plain and roughly served it will not look well for a company dinner ; still -it is a thing which several may like.] Take a shin of beef, cut away both ends, Jcaving the large bone about a foot long; put it in SOUPS. ' i) ina stewpan with some good stock, a piece of beef steak, and a sufficient quantity of cold wa- ter. After scumming it, season it with salt and cloves ; add two or three dozen carrots, a dozen onions, two dozen heads of celery, twelve tur- nips, and ground pepper, a fowl and two old partridges. Observe you put your pot on the fire early in the morning, and let it simmer very gently, that the liquor may be very good. Then take a piece of fillet of veal, of about two pounds weight; let it steam in a stewpan, and moisten it with your liquor; when it is freed from the fat add a dozen heads of celery, and put the whole into the porridge-pot for about an hour before you serve itup. ‘The liquor being done and well tasted, take some rasped bread, cut off the crust, and put them into a saucepan; moisten them with the liquor, and let them simmer: when done, lay them on your soup dish, and garnish them with all the different vegetables in your porridge pot ; then place the shin of beef on the potage, pour on sufficient liquor, and serve it very hot. POTAGE AUX LEGUMES, OR VEGETABLE SOUP, Wash half a dozen cabbage lettuces, as many heads of celery, one large carrot, a few turnips, and peas, if to be had. After having cut the dead leaves off the lettuces, blanch them in plenty of water, with salt, and lay them on a sieve; cut the celery into round shapes, the size ofa shilling, and blanch it; cut the carrots and turnips into large squares, then with a small Knife turn them round in the shape of a barrel ; Dlanch the carrots till tender; fry the turnips 2 goa . See ee SS SR 1 } Se a pat eee 59 SOUPS. good clarified butter, with onions cut in squares, till they become of a light brown colour, drain them on a hair sieve with the carrots; and cut the lettuce in three pieces without the stalk, put a few peas and fried cucumbers into the sieve with them. The vegetables being ready, put them in the soup-pot, with a small bit of sugar and salt; fill the pot up with three parts con- sommé and the remainder espagnole (or it may be all consommé if you like), or of beef. .How- ever, set it by the side of the stove to boil gently, and skim off all the scum that rises to the top ; when it has well boiled, and been skimmed for two or three hours, it will be ready to clarify, which is done thus: talze the soup from the fire and run it through a clean hair sieve into a large white bason (taking great care you do not break the vegetables); then beat up the whites of three eggs with one altogether in a large stewpan, with a very little sugar and salt if required, and, glaze tf you think it not strong enough; when you have beaten the egg for two minutes (as it must not rise to a strong froth), skim off all the fat from the top of the soup, first with a spoon, then by passing a sheet of paper across it; when cleared of the fat pour it into the eggs, and con- tinue to stir it over the fire till it boils, then take out the spoon, and let it boil gently for a quar- ter of an hour, in short, till perfectly clear ; have the soup-pot well scoured, into which put the vegetables out of the sieve; lay a clean tam- my over the soup-pot, and carefully run your soup through to the vegetables, (let it be done very gently, and be careful that you do not squeeze the tammy, as that will thicken the soup); SOUPS. 58 sdup); then set it by the side of the stove to boil for half a minute, to take off what scum may arise from the vegetables; put in the crust of a French roll, cut in small round pieces, and browned in the oven. The soup is then ready to serve. Other clear soups are clarified in the same manner, ‘This is a tureen for nine or ten: as the compariy increases, of course increase the soup. POTAGE A LA JARDINIERE, OR GARDEN SOUP. The same kind of vegetables as for potage aux légumes, with the addition of sorrel and chervil. The lettuce, sorrel, celery, and carrot must be cut square in a bason of water, with the chervil finely picked; they then must be well washed and blanched in a large stewpan of water, when done drain them on a sieve; the turnips, cut in small squares; fry till of a good colour in clari- fied butter with onions, cut the same, then drain them on a sieve with the vegetables. Proceed then by putting it on the same as the last soup : perhaps it will be better to omit the espagnole, as it should be of a lighter colour; clarify it the same. POTAGE A LA JULIENNE. Take half.a dozen cabbage lettuces, two hand- fuls of sorrel, six heads of celery, and a carrot, well washed ; cut them into fine shreds ina large bason of water, witha little picked chervil, wash them well and set them on a sieve to drain; take then a good onion, shred it likewise, and put it with some clarified butter in the bottom of .a stewpan; fry them a light brown; then add the vegetables. 54 SOURS. vegetables you have cut to the onions, cover them close down, and let them stew gently till done, then turn them on a sieve to drain: they then are ready to:put on and clarify, as directed for the other'soups. Here espagnole is required: asparagus or cucumbers may be introduced when in season. ' - pOTAGE A L’HOCHEPOT. Prepare your vegetables as for vegetable soup, except that one hour before clarifving it put In eight or nine thin mutton cutlets; when done take them out with a fork, lay them between two plates, then clarify the soup as usual. Before the soup is served, lay the cutlets in the tureen, and: pour the soup over them. POTAGE AUX NAVETS, OR TURNIP SOUP. Take ten or a dozen turnips that are not the least spongy, cut them about an inch square, ther shape them like a barrel, and put them into a bason of water as'you do them; while they are preparing, set a quarter'of a pound of butter on the fire to clarify, ina shallow stewpan; when the turnips are ready, and drained fromthe wa- : ter, put them in the butter and fry them till of a fine brown colour, then put them-in-a sieve that the butter may run off: put them into a soup- pot with a little sugar and salt, and fill-it up with consommé; set it by the stove to boil gently, skiny it well, and clarify it the same as other soups. A-few heads of celery cut round, blanch- ed, and put in at first with the turnips, will bea ereat addition. Bread must be put. in this and all other clear soups with vegetables. | | a POTAGE SOUPS. 55 POTAGE A LA PUREE DE CELERI, OR CELERY SOUP. Chuse two dozen heads of fine white celery, neatly trim, split them in two, and wash them well; then put them on to blanch in a large stewpan of water with plenty of salt; when ten- der, drain them ona sieve, and stir the potage on the fire ina stewpan, with about three ounces of butter, and a very little sugar and salt. When the butter begins to look clear, mix in a ladle of consommeé, when that has boiled for a few minutes, and the celery is perfectly mashed, stir in three table-spoonfuls of sauce tournée; when that has weil boiled, rub it through the tammy; and add a pint of strong consommé, and nearly as much thick cream. Put it in the soup-pot, and half an hour before dinner, or rather more, set it on the fire to boil, and skim it. Serve it with celery cut round, blanched and stewed; put this in just before you serve it. If you wish the soup to be brown instead of white, use espagnole in- stead of consommé, and no cream. POTAGE AUX LAITUES, OR LETTUCE SOUP. Take two dozen fine cabbage lettuces, well washed and blanched in salt and water; when done take then a colander spoon and put them in a stewpan of clear water for a few minutes, place them on a clean hair sieve, and when well strain- ed, they must be cut across in three pieces, and put in a soup pot with a little sugar and salt; fill it up with good consommé, and finish it as direct- ed for turnip soup. POTAGE, AUX CHICORES, OR ENDIVE SOUP. This is a clear soup made in the same manner a 56 SOUPS. as lettuce soup. Take great care to pick out the bitter parts and wash the endive well. POTAGE A L’ANGLOISE, OR ENGLISH SOUP. Lettuce, turnips, carrots, thyme, parsley, ce- lery, and marygolds, are the vegetables for this soup: the turnips and carrots must be cut round with a cutter, for the purpose, and put in two separate basons of water; the turnips must be fried a light brown, with a few onions cut square, - in some good clarified butter; when done put them in a hair sieve; the carrots must be blanch- ed by themselves, and added to the turnips, when done: the lettuce must be cut in large squares in a bason of water with the celery, which is to be cut round and blanched by themselves, and put in the sieve with the other vegetables; then put some common thyme well washed, and picked fine, in the soup-pot, enough to cover the bot- tom, which must be stewed with a small bit of butter. The vegetables in. the sieve may then he putin the soup-pot with the thyme, which must be filled up with some good beef stock, and one ladleful of plain mutton broth. The — parsley must be picked fine and blanched by itself, as well as the marygolds, and not put in before the soup is clarified: when clarified add a little sugar and salt, as directed inthe other clear soups. POTAGE DE PRINTEMS, OR SPRING SOUP. This soup is made in the same manner as ve- getable soup, except the lettuce must be cut in squares, and stewed with some sorrel cut the same, and plenty of chervil picked: instead of the onions beg cut square, they must be small round onions fried whole with the turnips. Plas 1em SOUPS. 57 them when done and drained, into the soup-pot, with a very little sugar and salt, filling it up with good light coloured consommé, and centinue to skim it till it boils, then clarify it the same as ve- getable soup. You may put points of asparagus in this soup; and be careful that it is not too high coloured. POTAGE A LA PUREE DE LAITUES, OR LETTUCE SOUP IN PUREE. Having two dozen fine cabbage lettuces well picked, washed and blanched, as directed for cleay lettuce soup, squeeze them well in a tammy, till the water is entirely out; put them in a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, which must stew gently till the butter begins to fry; adda Jadleful of good consommé, letting it simmer on a slow fire till it is near reduced, then put two or three ladlefuls more of consommeé, with three table-spoonfuls of plain sauce, which must be set on the fire to boil for a minute, and then rubbed through the tammy. While being rubbed through there may be added a ladleful of con- sommé; put it in a soup-pot and boil it gently by the side of the stove near an hour before sent to table. Then add the yolks of five eggs, with half a pint of good cream passed through the tammy. Before you serve it, care must be taken that it does not boil after the eges are in. POTAGE A LA PURSE DE POIS, OR PEAS soup. Two quarts of large peas, but not too old must be ready in a sieve with two cabbage let tuces, three green onions, a small bunch of pars- Jey, three leavesof mint, and a small carrot; these must be well washed and put altogether ina large SN ee stew- 58 | SOUPS. stewpan of boiling water with a handful of salt ; they must be kept boiling till done, and then put into a hair sieve to drain for a few minutes. Have aclean stewpan ready with about two ounces of butter to put the peas in ona slow fire; adda small ladle of consommé as you perceive them thicken, till they are ready to pass through the tammy. While they are getting ready cut two cucumbers about the size of a shilling, taking great care not to leave any of the seeds; fry them a fine brown, in some clarified butter: drain them on a sieve and put them in a stewpan with a pint of good consummé to simmer by a slow fire till half reduced. When the peas have been well rubbed through the tammy, put them in the soup-pot, and half an hour before dinner set it on a slow fire, gently stirring it till it boils: then let it simmer on one side. If it should appear thick, continue adding consommé to keep it that of cream ; a quarter of an hour before it is served, put in the cucumbers, a small lump of sugar, and salt to your taste; be careful to. skim it when- ever you see any scum rise; put a toast cut in small squares in the tureen. ANOTHER PEAS SOUP FOR WINTER. Instead of green peas take those that are split, and proceed in the same manner as the last re- ceipt, only donot boil them in water, but put them at first in a stewpan tostew with about two ounces of beef stiet; vegetables as above direct- ed, and.a few white peppercorns; some water must be put in the bottom of the stewpan till they are soft, then add consommé as in green peas soup. If cucumbers cannot be had take celery Sa ae ne SS SOUPS. 59 celery blanched instead of fried, and proceed as with cucumbers. POTAGE A LA QUEENSBERRY. This is made exactly the same as green peas soup, only with all kinds of vegetables cut square and prepared as for potage a la jardinicre: but instead of clarifying the consommé your vegeta- bles are in, let it boil down, skim it, and put it in the peas purée, the same as the cucumbers in the above receipt. : POTAGE AU FAUBONNE Is another peas soup made either with green or split peas, made like the others, but very strong, with half a dozen cabbage lettuces cut square, stewed very gently over a slow fire, and put in the soup at the same time as the vegetables in the other peas soups. POTAGE PRINTANIER. Six good cabbage lettuces, half the quantity of sorrel, a little chervil, and three leaves of mint must be picked im a large bason of clear water, and washed in several waters till perfectly free from grit and sand; then squeeze them well with your hands, and lay them on a clean table, take a large knife and chop them fine, but not quite so fine as parsley ; put them in a soup pot with one ounce of butter, and let them stew gently ona slow fire, stirring them at times till they are done. One quart of good consommé must be added, but only a pint at first, and when that is nearly reduced add the other; when it boils put in nine table-spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces’) which must boil gently for one hour. If it should get too thick, adda little more consommé. ae Have ESE r ee or ee eee eee a we =. a ‘ ms = . = rs E . — - Nr ICT AN AE Pi oo yaaa See bo erates — z Sean ae 60 SOUPS. Have ready a leagon of seven yolks of eggs and half a pint of cream squeezed through a tammy, which add the minute before you serve it; season it with salt to your palate. If if is to warm again, the soup-pot must be set in a stewpan of hot water, and stirred till it attains the heat wanted. POTAGE A LA PUREE DE LENTILLES, OR LEN- TILE SOUP, _ Take about half a pint of lentiles, pick and wash them clean, and put them on in the same manner as the split peas soup; when stewed till tender keep adding a little espagnole as you add consommé in the peas soup; when the whole is well stewed together rub it through a tammy, put it into the soup pot, and let it boil gently one hour and a half, before it is sent totable; it must be kept the thickness of cream; if it proves too thick add a little more espagnole. Put some bread cut round (and fried in butter till brown) ito the tureen. POTAGE AU RIZ, OR RICE SOUP. Take some rice well picked, and put it on the fire to blanch, then drain it ona sieve; about one tea-cupful must be put in the soup pot, with one head of celery, then pour one quart of con- sommé on it, and let it simmer by the side of the stove for three hours. If it gets too thick, add some more consommé, put in a little salt, take out the celery, and send it to table. POTAGE AU VERMICELLI,OR VERMICELLI SOUP. 4 Let the vermicelli boil up once in some clear water with a little salt, drain it quick ona sieve, and put it in a quart of consommé, which must be ready boiling with one head of celery, and fi- nish 2 SOUPS. 61 nish it the same as rice soup. @his may be made in one hour, or less. X SOUPE A LA REINE. Stew the crumbs of two French rolls, one handful of rice blanched, with one head of celery, ina pint of good consommé; cut the meat of the breast of two fowls, and pound it in the mortar till fine, then add the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and pounded together with a few sweet almonds blanched ; if it becomes too stiff add a ‘little of the bread to soften it. When all is well pounded together, put it in a tammy with the remaindey of the bread, a little sugar, and salt : as you rub it through add first a pint of good consommé, a little at atime, then a pint of cream in the same manner, till the whole is entirely through the tammy. Pour itina soup-pot, warm it gently by putting the pot in another stewpan of hot water and often stirring it. Be very careful that the consommé is kept clear and free from dust, and as your soup is warming, boil one quart of it down to the thick- ness of soup, then put what you have boiled in the soup, stir it well and serve it up to. table. SOUPE A LA LORRAINE Is made after the same manner as 4 la reine; but instead of a small quantity of almonds, put half a pound well picked and blanched, and when put in the tureen, have five or six very small rolls, the crumb to be taken out, the crust toasted, and minced chicken put in, these must swim on the soup. Boil the consommé the same as a la reine. y | 1 f a | i 3 ‘ ny Pa! | } t Seer ae ae tocol oe ahs Sears weg E 4 POTAGE tes age Ee pm 62 SOUPS. POTAGE AU WERMICELLI A L’ALLEMANDE, OR x VERMICELLI SOUP A L’ ALLEMANDE. Prepare the vermicelli the same as directed for vermicelli soup, but the minute before it is serv- ed up, stir together in a bason seven yolks of eges with half a pint of cream, as directed in potage printanier. POTAGE AU VERMICELLI A LA REINE, OR VERMICELLI SOUP A LA REINE, Is made as vermicelli soup, except having half the quantity with halfthat of soup a la reine to be mixed just before it is served up; be always careful that it does not boil when the a la reine is mixed. RICE SOUP A LA REINE. Make your rice soup as usual, and proceed in the same manner as directed in vermicelli 4 la reine. ? f ! | | i} a i | x i } i { | ie | tae i i j i. i ji mh | } : fi ft i iy f iY Ff j uy "i i f r POTAGE 1 LA PUREE D’OSEILLE, OR SORREL SOUP. Have two pecks. of young sorrel, pick it well from the stalks and wash it in several waters ; then squeeze it well and let it stew on a slow fire, with nearly a quarter of a pound of butter till done. Drain it for two minutes ona hair sieve, and put it again in a stewpan with a small bit of butter on a slow fire; when the butter is melted adda half pint ladleful of consommé, when nearly reduced add another, then seven or eight table spoonfulls of plain sauce (see Sauces). When all is well boiled together rub it through a tammy, adding a quart of consommé while you pass it. Let it boil very gently two pa ore Spec SE a ran en ee SOUPS. | 63 fore the dinner, and add six eggs and half a pint of cream mixed together as directed for the other soups, put this in the minute before it is served up; if it should not be strong enough to your palate, boil down some beef stock and mix in with it. POTAGE A L’ESPAGNOLE, OR SPANISH SOUP. This soup is made with espagnole (see Sauces), it must however be nearly half the thickness as used for sauce. Have every kind of vege- tables prepared, as directed for vegetable soup and put them in one quart of good veal or beef gravy, to boil gently for two or three hours skim- ming them when required. Add one quart of strong but thin espagnole and let it boil again for nearly halfan hour; before it is served, skim it, and add a little sugar and salt with the juice of one lemon. “POTAGE A LA FRANCOISE, OR FRENCH SOUP. Put six or eight good cabbage lettuces well washed and cut in small squares ina bason of water; let them drain well and put them intoa small stewpan with one ounce of butter to stew on a slow fire, when done lay them on a sieve. Have some celery and carrots turned round, the same as for Spanish soup, blanched and laid ona sieve with the lettuce, then take some turnips turned, and small round onions, fry them together in clarified butter of a fine light brown, and put them on the sieve with the other vegetables; two cucumbers cut the size of a shilling and fried, must be put on the sieve with the rest; a few mushrooms likewise may be fried, but not brown; if liked, some chervil may be added picked and blanched. When the vegetables are prepared EO put Seana anes eee eee Te ee f sierra 2) a ean as CU, ay ae I Ee a I ont IR GYR ne en 64 SOUPS. put them in the soup-pot with three pints of good consommé, asmall jump of sugar, and a little salt, which must boil gently at the corner of the stove for iour hours, skimming it at times, and adding more consommé to keep it near the quantity as at first; half an hour before dinner put in six or seven table spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces) and stir it till it boils; a leason of six yolks of eggs and cream should be ready as directed in the other soups, stir it well and mix it just before you send it to table. POTAGE 4 LA BOURGEOISE, OR CITIZEN’S SOUP. One dozen heads of fine endive and as many of celery well picked, washed, and boiled to- gether, they must not be put in till the water boils, and care must be taken to skim off what comes to the top; when done drain them ona sieve, and put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little salt, and a few white peppercorns. Stir it well on the fire till the butter begins to fry, then add about half a pint of consommé; continue stirring it for ten minutes, then add three good spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces). When well boiled together, rub it through the tammy, adding at the same time one quart of good strong veal gravy. When all is through, put it in the soup-pot, and let it boil by the side of the stove one hour anda half be- fore dinner ; have ready to put into the soup be- fore you serve it, half a dozen heads of celery eut round and blanched, with four heads of en- dive cut into small pieces and stewed on a slow fire; when these are done, put them on a hair sieve to drain, and then let them boil gently in a quart SOUPS. 63 quart of good veal gravy (or espagnole) till re- duced to one half; put into ‘the tureen the breast of a fowl cut in thin round slices and pour the soup over them when ready ; put a little salt if wanted , SOUPE DE SANTE. At the bottom of your stewpan lay six or eight slices of lean ham with some beef over them, then some veal, with some partridge legs or moor gam, or chicken; salt peppercorns, Ja- maica pepper, three or four cloves, a bay leaf, and one clove of garlic; stew the whole toge- ther till it takes a fine brown colour, then fill it up, half with water, and half good beef-stock, add three heads of celery, two good turnips, parsley, lemon, thyme, two carrots, three large onions, and a small bunch of winter savory: when the whole is thoroughly done, pass it through a dou- ble silk or lawn sieve into a bason. ‘Then cut about the thickness of a quill and half an inch long, two good turnips and three large leeks, and fry them a fine brown colour together: next shred two good cabbage lettuces, celery, endive, sorrel, and chervil; and stew them down ona very slow fire with a small bit of butter. When done put them ona sieve with the turnips; then put them in the soup-pot, and pour the soup from the bason over them; set it on a clean stove, take care to skim it, and set it on one side when it boils, and let it simmer very gently for two hours; ‘cut the crust of two French rolls in round pieces, brown them in the oven, and put them in the tureen, and pour your soup over them. If you like, it may be clarified, as other clear ek ; ut | | i 4 t qh if ] f i i if a apne nice net ee See - nee dpe ~eoe Sa ee eee Se a nr eae en RR Yea er ARON a a SU a Ey ont A Pa ee eae a 66 SOUPS. but the real soupe de santé ought not to be clari- fied. SOUPE A L°:IVROGNE, OR DRUNKARD’S SOUP. Cut five or six large onions into a stewpan, with a small bit of carrot sliced; parsley, one head of celery, a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and three lumps of lean ham; stir these over rather a quick fire, till of a fine light brown; and add a gill of beef stock, stirring it again for ten minutes: hext add a pint, and when it boils, three good spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces) ; jet it boil down to one half, put in four table spoonfuls of vinegar, and rub it through the tammy, adding a pint of good strong beef stock at the same time ; let it boil gently one hour be- fore dinner, shred some onions very fine, fry them brown and stew them in a pint of beef stock till nearly reduced; then put them in the soup and serve it tp. If not sour enough add a little more vinegar. POTAGE AUX ASPERGES, OR ASPARAGUS SOUP. Take three quarters of a hundred of aspara- gus, scrape and cut them in pieces into a basin of clear water; pick and wash two cabbage-let- tuces, four or five green onions, a carrot, and a bunch of parsley; put them on in some boiling water with the peas and a spoonful of salt, to boil up at once that you may skim them; as soon as skimmed, put them in a hair sieve; have a clean large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, put the peas, &c. in, and stir them on the fire till perfectly mashed; halfa pint of con- sommé must then be added, stirring it gently . at ee Dror ee Bi) NE en a sn ys SOUPS. G7 at times. When the whole is thoroughly done, putin a small lamp of sugar and a little sait, then rub it through a tammy, adding a quart of good strong consommé and beef stock mixed, let it boil one hour and a half before diuner and put ina quarter of a hundred of asparagus, cut in peas, and well blanched half an hour before it is served. POTAGE A LA PUREB DE GIBIER, OR GAME SOUP. This kind of soup may be made of partridges; moor fowl, and woodcocks together; if these are ready roasted, take the breast of one of each sort, put them in a clean marble mortar and pound them, the backs and legs must be put in a quart of strong veal gravy (or espagnole) on the fire, with a green onion and a lean piece of ham, till the goodness is entirely drawn out; in the mean time you must pound what is in the mortar with the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, then adda little of the veal gravy to soften the whole, take out the legs and back bones and put in three spoonfuls of plain sauce; when it boils, mix it together, out of the mortar, in the tammy, with the crumb of a french roll stewed in consommé with a little rice, as for soupe a la reine, and rub it through, adding some strong veal gravy till it takes the thickness of soupe a la reine, and warm it in another stewpan of water, as directed for soupe a la reine; if it stands still too long it will spoil. Some pieces of partridge or moor fowl may be cut in thin slices, and laid at the bottom of the tureen, with a few crusts of roll cut round and baked. POTAGE 68 SOUPS. POTAGE A LA COURTE BOUILLON. Prepare some ham, beef, and veal, in a stew- pan with spice and vegetables, as directed for soupe de santé, and fill it up with consommé, and about one bottle of sherry; when the meat is well done, pass it through a lawn sieve into a pan or basin; have some carrots and celery pre- pared as for vegetable soup, blanched and stewed in strong consommé, likewise five or six fine cab- bage lettuces done whole, and stewed as carrots and celery ; two dozen small onions must be fried brown, and put into the soup pot with the other vegetables; when they are properly stewed, pour the soup from the basin over them, and let. them simmer gently by the side of the stove for four hours, skimming it when it wants. Put the srust of two French rolls, cut round and fried of light brown, in the tureen, and pour the soup over them. POTAGE AUX OIGNONS BLANCE, OR WHITE ONION SOUP, Take a dozen of the finest large onions, peel and cut them in two in a basin of clear water; first, half boil and skim them in one stewpan of water with a spoonful of salt, then have another stewpan of boiling water; turn them on a sieve and put them immediately into the boiling water till they are done, then drain them on a sieve for a few minutes, when drained put them in a stew- pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir them on the fire for a few minutes till the butter begins to fry, and add a half pint ladle of good consommeé ; stir them again till well mixed, and add four or five table spoonfuls of plain sauce, soe SOUPS. 69 (see Sauces). When all is well boiled together, rub it through a tammy, first adding one pint of good strong consommé, then one pint of good cream, and salt it to your palate; let it boil gently for one hour by the side of the stove, adding before you serve it up one dozen of very small round onions, boiled and stewedgin some consommé with the crusts of two French rolls, cut round and baked, put in the tureen, and the soup put ~ over them. POTAGE A LA SAINTE-MENEHOULD,. : For this you must have eight or nine clear carrots, scraped, cut in quarters, and the inside white taken out, then boil it with six heads of celery ina stewpan of water with a spoonful of salt, till perfectly tender; put them in a sieve for a few minutes, then stir them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, on a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, with a little salt, a small lump of sugar, and one handful of peppercorns; when they are well washed, put in a ladleful of good veal gravy or espagnole, and when it boils rub it through a tammy, adding a pint more of the gravy when the whole is put into the soup- pot, till within one hour of the dinner, then place it on the stove to boil gently; having some vegetables prepared, as in potage a la jardini‘re, well stewed down in a quart of good consommé, put them in the purée for ten minutes; before it is served, skim and stir it gently, then put it in the tureen. POTAGE A LA FLAMANDE, OR FLEMISH SOUP. Take lettuce, sorrel, three leaves of mint, a few young carrots and celery, all of which cut about an inch long, and the thickness of a quill, putting 70 SOUPS. putting them as you do them in a large basin with some chervil picked fine, likewise cut some onions the same, which fry in the soup-pot with clarified butter till they begin to brown; then having the vegetables well washed and drained, put them to the onions to stew very gently, turn- ing them at times; when the butter begins to fry take them from the fire and keep them closely covered. While the vegetables are stewing, cut a couple of good cucumbers the same shape, and fry them merely in clarified butter, drain it from them when done, and put them with the other vegetables; now put a quart of good consomme, with avery little sugar and salt, let it boil down gently, taking care to skim it and add more con- somm, to keep it to the same quantity as at first ; when the fat is skimmed off and well boiled, put in five table-spoonfuls of sauce tourné, and let it continue boiling gently as at first; when nearly the dinner time taste it, and if you think it not strong enough, add a little veal glaze mixed well in, then put in some points of asparagus, well boiled and green. When the dinner is want- ed, take the soup from the fire, and mix a leason of the yolks of seven eggs with nearly a pint of cream, with it stir the whole well together, and pour it in the tureen, which should be warm, or this soup very soon thickens; but, be very care- ful not to put it to the fire after the eggs are in. POTAGE DE L’BSTURGEON, OR STURGEON SOUP. Take a fine piece of sturgeon, cutting off the fins and the egristley bone inside, with tke skin; put it all to stew with halfa pound of lean ham, a bunch SOUPS. Pl punch of herbs, carrots, onions, peppercorns, and allspice, with a little salt; when it is stewed of a fine brown colour, fill it up with veal con- sommé, half a bottle of madeira, and a gill of good vinegar; when well boiled and skimmed, put ina large piece of sturgeon to stew very gently with a fire under and above the stewpan, tillit is well done; then take it out to cool, and pass the li- quor through a lawn sieve, thickening it with ham, as directed for turtle soup ; boil it just the same. When ready, cut your sturgeon in small squares, and put them in the soup with a few stewed oysters and mushrooms; let it boil gently fora few minutes, skim it and put in the juice of two lemons with a very little cayenne, then serve it up; if not strong enough, reduce a little beef stock and put it in. If liked, herbs may be added. POTAGE D’ECREVISSES, OR CRAWFISH SOUP. Pick off the meat of the tails of half a hundred crawfish; after boiling them, pound the claws and putihem in a stewpan with consommé enough to cover them, to boil for ten minutes; then pass them through a sieve into a bason, have a thicken- ing made the same as for the plain sauce (see Sauces), and mix it with good consommé the same as for sauce, but not quite so thick; when it has boiled gently near one hour, squeeze it through atammy. Pound the fine red spawn of one or two lobsters with a bit of butter, and rub it through a fine hair sieve, which you must put in a stewpan and mix it with the liquor of the shells, first adding it by degrees till it is all mixed; it must boil for a minute, then put it with the other soup, and let it boil gently till it comes to a good thickness, | iW 4 4 a | Hy i i i i 72 SOUPS, thickness, but not quite so thick assauce. Half an hour before it is served put in the tails, which must be split down the middle; five or six very small rolls (with the crumb taken out and the crust toasted) must be filled with shrimps well picked, and put them to swim on the top of the soup. TO MAKE A COULIS OF CRAWFISH AU GRAS ET AU MAIGRE. [From the Almanach des Gourmands.] The coulis au gras makes an excellent substi- stute for the consommé to be mixed in the craw- fish soup. COULIS OF CRAWFISH AU GRAS’ Take about thirty crawfish of a middling size, and after washing them several times, boil them in water; then pick them, and putting theshells apart, pound them well in a mortar with twelve sweet almonds and the crawfish. ‘Then take a fillet of veal and a piece of ham, cut them into \ slices with an onion, and add some slices of carrots and parsnips ; when the whole has taken colour, add some melted bacon and a little flour; let it simmer awhile, stirring it well, then moisten the whole with some good stock or broth. Add salt, pepper, cloves, basilic, parsley, young onions, mushrooms, truffles, crusts of bread, and let it simmer; then take out the veal, dilute the con- tents of the mortar with the juice, and strain the whole through a sieve. COULIS OF CRAWFISH AU MAIGRE. Instead of melted bacon substitute butter; let whatever you make it of be only half browned, and MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. 73 and moisten it with good fish liquor. But of course a coulis au maigre can never equal the excellence of a coulis au gras. BOOK fil. MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. ‘To roast Venison. To roast Turkies. - Haunch of Mutton. ———-_——. Pheasants. Saddle of Do. ———— Partridges. Fore-guarter ofLamb. -——_— Pigeons. Fillet of Veal. tee Ducks, tame and a Neck, Leg or Loin wild. of Pork. ———— Woodcocks and a Spare-rib. Snipes. Ham. ——— Quails. Fowls. Ruffs and Rees. — —- Chickens. —_ Hares. Guinea Fowls. —— Rabbits. — Geese. A roti sans parcil. Preliminary Hints and Observations. Berore the meat is put down to roast set the dripping-pan before the fire ; into which put some of the dripping from the day before, with a little salt and water, with which baste your meat. It is hardly possible to say with correctness the time a joint will take, as it depends on the size, the time of year, the kind of fire you have, and hew itis situated: a good screen is a material thing towards roasting well, and with a little practice the time for each article may soon be acquired.— However, suppose you have a large piece of beet, be careful to balance it properly on the spit, and cover it well dver with paper; when down, baste it immediately; the larger it is, keep at the Cam WPeR ed Nice tL) ny rProeaver Le) Ss ee . or — TA MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. greater distance from the fire, which must be kept clear by stirring it at times from the top to the bottom; when nearly done, take off the paper, put it near the fire, baste and dredge it well with flour, and sprinkle salt over it. A small piece, as a neck of mutton, ribs of lamb or pork, put near the fire, and roast quickly ; if you like a salt flavour sprinkle it while roasting, for it always draws the gravy out if salted before it is roasted. Pork and veal should be well done; wild ducks and teal be under done, for if roasted to loose the gravy their good flavour is lost likewise; hares require great attention that they may be done at both ends and no blood seen ; still they must not be oyer-done, or.they will be unpleasant and dry to the palate. Observe too that most meat is the better for keeping a short time. Mutton and beef ten days, a fortnight, or a week may do ; but never longer than a fortnight, for it then looses its flavour. If by chance the meat should freeze, do not put it to the fire in that state; the best me- thod is to put it in cold water till it is thawed, then dry it and roast it as usual. ‘The larder for undressed meat should be in a dry situation, have a current of air, and be well secured with wire from the flies, and in a situation where the sum- mer’s sun cannot reach it; if possible, manage so as to evade the winter frosts. The following receipts will explain more particularly the me- thod of roasting. ‘0 HAUNCH OF VENISON. Chop off the shank of the venison, take off the skin, but none of the fat; then put it on the spit. Make a dough of flour and water, roll it out to the shape of the venison, lay it on spite an MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. 7) and cover it over with paper, which must be well secured with packthread. Set it to roast at a good distance from the fire, and baste it often. A quarter of an hour before dinner cut off the dough that covered it, dredge it with flour, baste it with a bit of butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it; and when of a fine brown colour, take it up, place it on the dish with good gravy under it, and garnish the bone with cut paper. Serve it with hot port wine, or, currant jelly in a boat. Ifa large haunch, it will take nearly five hours at a moderate fire. A neck cover with dough, and roast it in the same manner; but of course not so long. HAUNCH OF MUTTON. Chuse a good, fat, stale hind quarter of mutton, cut it venison fashion; spit and treat it in the same manner as a haunch of venison; but roast it more quickly (two hours and a half will do it). Half an hour before dinner cut off the paper and baste it with port wine; then froth it with butter, colour it the same as venison; and serve it with ‘the same kind of sauce in a boat. SADDLE OF MUTTON. After neatly cutting off the skin, cover the mut- ton up in a sheet of paper, and screw it in a cra- dle spit; er have a round skewer to run through the pith, tie it well to a straight spit ;*and roast- it for one hour and a half, or more, according to its size. This joint being unequal sometimes requires a balance on the one. side, therefore have a weight in readiness. But never run the spit through the fillets; in short, the less a spit goes through any meat the better, F 2 FORE= eS eee dit 1 | | 76° MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. Lamb, both house and grass, requires to be well roasted; cover it well with paper, and roast it of a fine light brown. Before it is served cut off the shoulder, squeeze a Seville orange under it, and lay the shoulder in its place again. Serve it with good gravy, and garnish it with water- cresses; send mint sauce in a boat, and puta salad on the side-table. ; FILLET OF VEAL. Take a fillet of good white veal, cut out the bene, trim a little of the fat from the outside, and put it in the place of the bone. Make astuffing of two handfuls of fine bread-crumbs, two outices of butter, parsley, and lemon; thyme, well chopped, a little pepper and salt, one egg, and a little grated nutmeg, if liked: mix these ingredients well together; put a little in the centre of the fillet, and the remainder in the flap; skewer it, cover it with paper, and tie it well together; run the spit through, or put it in a cradle spit, and let it roast till well done; then take it up, cut off the paper, and serve it with good gravy and melted butter poured over it. A NECK, LEG, OR LOIN OF PORK. . Take a neck of pork, not too fat, neatly score the skin, and cut out the blade bone; in the place of which put some sage and onion finely chopped 5 spit it, tie some paper over it, and roast it till well done. Serve it with gravy in the dish and apple sauce, or sauce robert: (see Sauces) in a boat. A leg, or loin, may be roasted and served in the samemanner, but score them very lightly; very gently cut up the fat, under which lay the stuffing MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. 77 stuffing of sage and onion, so that as each slice is cut the stuffing may come with it without any further trouble SPARE-RIB OF PORK. Skewer the spare-ribs crossways, tie them to the spit, roast them at a quick fire, baste them often, and sprinkle them over with salt. When done lay them on a dish, with sage finely chopped sprinkled over them ; send gravy in the dish, and apple sauce ma boat. HAM. Take a good ham that has been well soaked, cut off the ‘skin, spit it, put two or three cloves in the shank, rub it over with Madeira, prick it with a knife, and make it imbibe as much wine as pos- sible; cover it with a paste, the paste with pa- per, and tie it up as venison. When done, cut off the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinkle crumbs of bread on it, baste it gently with butter, and continue to sprinkle ¢rumbs of bread til] a crust is formed, and it assumes a good brown colour; then lay it on the dish, garnish the bone with a paper as for venison ; aid potr under it a good sauce 4 l’espagnole With Madeira wine boiled in it. ¢ FOWLS. -} Put pepper and salt into the fowls before you spit them, roast them at a clear fire; froth them up when nearly done by sprinkling them over with flour and salt, and basting them with but- ter. When done be careful in taking out the skewers, serve them with good clear’ gravy in the dish, aiid bread or egg sauce jp a boat. FO | - “CHICKENS a 78 MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. CHICKENS. Having your chickens singed and well trussed with pepper and salt in them as for fowls, roast them at a clear quick fire; froth them well, serve them with good gravy, garnished with water cresses —parsley and butter may be sent in a boat. GUINEA FOWL. Dress these in the same manner as pheasants, except when larded, then of course they require no bacon to be laid over them. GEESE. After a green goose has been well trussed and singed, put into the inside a good bit of butter mixed. with pepper and salt; put it to roast, and baste it frequently with butter. When nearly done shake over it some flour and salt, when ready take out the skewers, lay it on the dish with good gravy under it, and green sauce in a boat (see Sauces, Sorrel) ; three quarters of an hour will roast it. Stuff a stubble goose with plenty of sage and onions chopped, mixed with pepper and salt; if the sage and onion should be thought too strong, soften it with a few bread erumbs; it will take about an hour and half to roast. Serve it with good gravy and apple sauce in a boat. TURKIES. For roasted turkies, see Made Dishes of Tur- kies, PHEASANTS. Having cleanly taken the entrails out and simged the pheasant over a stove, put into the inside a bit of butter rolled in pepper and salt ; truss MEATS AND BIRDS PAIN ROASTED. 79 truss it neatly with the head turned on one side, keeping the breast as fullas possible; over which lay bards of fat bacon, tying them on with pack- thread ; before you spit it break the back bone, that it may lay the etter on the dish. A good sized pheasant will take half an hour; when nearly done cut away the bacon, brown it well; sprinkle it with flour and salt, and froth it with butter. Serve it garnished with water cresses, a good gravy under it, and bread sauce in a boat. PARTRIDGES. ~ Proceed in the same manner as directed for ¥ ; pheasants. ae PIGEONS. . * The pigeons being well cleaned, leaving the livers in, truss them and put a stuffing into the crops, as fora fillet of veal; put them down to roast and singe them well; about a quarter of an hour will roast them; froth them with butter; serve them garnished with water cresses, sood gravy under them, and parsley and butter in a oat. an eee eee Siamese Eas neaeinieepeiegae sincere eg ——— EI io —- ™ DUCKS, TAME AND WILD. The entrails being taken out of the wild ducks, wipe them well with a cloth; put into the in- side a bit of butter rolled in pepper and salt ; when trussed spit them and roast them quickly for a quarter of an hour which will be enough, for the gravy must not run out before you take them up, shake flour and salt over them and froth them with butter. Put good strong gravy under them, and you may send hot port wine in aboat. Tame ducks dress after the same man- ak Mes ney So oereet = Ser =—— a AEE LN Ti rl, ees eee a = LS ea Segui See . ie 80 MBATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. ner as geese, with sage and onion, and apple sauce in a boat. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. To dress these, see Entrées, or Made Dishes of PVoodcocks. QUAILS. Put a stuffing in the crops as for pigeons, lay a vine leaf on the breast of each with a bard of bacon over it, run a long skewer through them and tie them to the spit; when nearly done cut off the bacon and baste them with butter; when of a delicate brown serve them garnished with fried bread crumbs; serve some good clear gravy in a boat, in which squeeze a little lemon juice. RUFFS AND REES. These birds being particularly delicate must be handled very lightly in the picking ; run them side by side on a long skewer, and roast them twelve or fourteen minutes at a good distance from the fire, baste them with butter, and serve them with good gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a boat. RABBITS. ; Having skinned the rabbits, skewer the heads through the mouths on their backs, make the hind and fore legs meet, which skewer to the sides; making a stuffing as for a fillet of veal, and sew it up in their insides and spit them— they will take nearly three quarters of an hour to roast, froth them with butter as for any other roast. When done take out the skewers and thread they were sewed with; cut off the heads, which split in two; the rabbits being on. the FO dish, MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED. S&S] dish, place the heads round with gravy under. them; liver sauce in a boat, (see Sauces). | A ROTI SANS PARCIL. [From the Almanach des Gourmands, not that .it may be esteemed a luxury, but it curiously unites the forest, marshes, plains and poultry yard ; or sea production, such as oysters or sturgeon in one compact body ; making a good entrée or flank for the first course. | Take a fine large olive stuffed with capers and anchovies, aud preserved in the best oil, and put it into a fig peeker ; after cutting off its head and legs, put the fig peeker into the body of a fine fat ortolan; put the ortolan into the body of a skylark; besides cutting off the head and legs take away all the principal bones, and wrap it in a thick fillet of bacon; put the sky- lark thus prepared into a thrush, trimmed and arranged in a similar way ; put the thrush inte a fine plump quail; put the quail without bacon but wrapped in a vine leaf into a lapwing, and the lapwing well trussed and covered with thin bacon into a fine golden plover; put the plover also rolled up in bacon into .a fine young par- tridge ; put the partridge into a good succulent woodceck, and after surrounding the latter with very thin crusts of bread, put it into a teal; put the teal well trussed and covered with bacon into a Guinea hen, and the Guinea hen also surrounded with bacon into a fine young wéd duck, in preference to a tame one; put the duck into a fine plump fowl, and the fowl into a fine large red pheasant, be sure it is very high fla- youred; put the pheasant into a fine fat wild goose; put the wild goose into a Guinea fowl ; ut the Guinea fowl into a very fine bustard, and if it should not fit it, fill up the cavities with chesnuts, 82 MEATS AND BIRDS PLAIN ROASTED, chesnuts, sausage meat, and stuffing excellently made. Put these ingredients thus prepared inte a vessel hermetically sealed, and closed round with paste, and add onions stuck with cloves, carrots, small bits of ham, celery, herbs, ground pepper, slices of bacon weil seasoned, salt, spices, coriander, and a bit or two of garlick. ~ Let it simmer for twenty-four hours over a slow fire, so arranged as to reach every part alike. Perhaps an oven might be better. Serve it up on a hot dish, after dressing it, to look agree- able to the eye, with good sauce a Vespagnole. Thus eyery kind of bird contributes his quota towards producing a réti sans parcil, uniting in itself the quintessence of every thing the most choice either of the plain, the forest, the marshes, or the poultry yard. This dish may be varied according to the season and the talent of the cook, only observing to begin with the smaller birds, and proceed gradually to the larger. HARE. Truss and stuff the hare in the same manner as arabbit ; place it in the centre of the spit, that the fire may reach each end, so that no blood may be seen about the neck, which will happen if not closely attended to, and often basted ; about an hour will roast it; finish it with shaking flour and salt over it, and froth it with butter ; serve it garnished with water-cresses, plenty of gravy under it, and warm currant jelly in a boat, If you wish the hare to be particularly nice, place under it in a dish a pint of thick cream, with which baste it often when half done, and shake a little flour over it; continue this till the cream is used and formed a crust round the hare: ; . cut ; MADE DISHES OF BEEF. $3 cut off the head, split it in two, and place it on each side: gravy under it and jelly in a boat, as before. BOOK IV. MADE DISHES OF BEEF. Piéce de Beeuf 41a Maréchale, wae 2 | Ttalienne, ———— ——— aux Légumes. nae ala Breton. . ———--—— aux Choux, farci 4 la Dame Simoneé. Se eee a la Purée de Lentilles, —————— 4 |’ Anglioise. Filets de Boeuf in a Marinade. Rouleau de Beeuf. Cételettes de Boeuf aux Coucombres, Filets de Beeuf a la Vinaigrette. Surlonge de Boeuf en Epigramme. Emincé de Beeuf aux Oignons. Piéce de Beeuf 4 la Tremblante. Langue de Boeuf réti, or Beef Tongue roasted. Emincé de Boeuf aux Coucombres, or Mince Beef with Cus cumbers. PIECE DE BHUF A LA MARECHALE. Take a fat rump of beef, cut out the bone, tie it up with packthread, and have a brazier ready for the bone which you cut out, and what trim- mings of mutton you may happen to have; lay the bones at the bottom of the brazier, then the piece of beef, with some carrots, onions, pars- ley, one clove of garlick, a few peppercorns, allspice and salt; then lay the remainder of the. meat over, and cover the whole with some good broth, or braize remaining from the day before. Lay a sheet of paper over it, cover it close, and let NN S4 MADE DISHES OF BEEF. let it stéw very gently for eight hours, at which tiiWe take it off the fire, and let it stand till half cold. ‘Take it up with a large slice, trim it; and put it on a copper dish in the oven; glaze it two or three times before it is served up: have some carrots and turnips turned round, about two inches in length, blanch them, and put them to stew in some of the braze from the beef (but mind they be kept in two separate stewpans); set them upright round the beef, first placing a car- rot, then a turnip, till completely garnished : reduce some good beef stock with some plain sauces (see Sauces); when of a proper thickness, stir in a small Jump of butter and a litthe lemon ee pour it over the vegetables and send it to table. ‘ PIECE DE BUF A L’ITALIENNE. Take a rump of beef, ‘stew it as directed in the last receipt, but garnish it with some good pota- toes, cut in neat, round, thin slices, over which pour a good italienne sauce, with parsley, thyme, and mushrooms, chopped as directed in the sauces. PIECE DE BUF AUX LEGUMES. . Have a rump of beef exactly prepared as di- rected in the first receipt, and some carrots,. tur- nips, and celery, turned in the shape of a barrel, which must all be blanched separately, and three or four good Savoy cabbages, or cabbage let- tuces; when the whole is well blanched and skimmed, put them on separate sieves to drain, and afterwards into separate stewpans, to stew as directed in piéce de bouf & la maréchale, with the same kind of sauce, but with the addition of a few mushrooms. PIECE Se ee ae Oe MADE DISHES OF BEEF, 85 PIECE DE BHUF A LA BRETONNE. Prepare a rump as directed in the three pre- ceding receipts, and have a sauce prepared a la bretonne, (see Sauces,) with some good harricot beans well boiled mixed init; before it is served, they must be made very hot and poured into the dish. ‘The beef glazed, of course, and laid on the top. PIECE DE BOUF AUX CHOUX, FARCI A LA DAME SIMONE. This likewise must be of a good rump of beef, well stewed, as before directed; then take five or six fine Savoy cabbages blanched, and the in- side filled with a farce made of veal (see Force- meat); they then must be tied up, and put to stew in some strong braize, with a carrot, an onion, one clove of garlic, parsley, and a little salt, in the bottom of the stewpan, then a layer of fat bacon, then the cabbage, then another layer of bacon, and covered with a round paper; when stewed gently between two fires for three hours, drain them on a sieve, and when the beef is served garnish it round with the cabbages, The sauce must be some good bechamelle, or sauce 4 lespagnole (see Sauces), but the bécha- melle is the most proper. Instead of cabbages you may dress some cabbage lettuces in the same’ way, but with cream sauce. When well done with lettuce it is an excellent dish, PIECE DE B@UF A LA PUREE DE LENTILUES, Having prepared a rump of beef as before di- rected, prepare some lentiles as directed for len- tile soup, but thicker ; add some good espagnole (see Sauces), and after having passed them org | 86 MADE DISHES OF BEEF. through a tammy, boil them down. to a fine smooth thickness; pour it out on a hot dish, and lay your beef on the top, glazed, as before di- rected. PIECE OF BEEF A WL’ ANGLOISE. Take a stale piece of the flank, with an equal quantity of fat and lean, roll it up, and tie it well together with packthread; stew it as di- rected for the rumps of beef, glaze it, garnish it with slices of turnip cut very neatly, fried, and stewed gently in some of the strong broth of the braize; pour over the turnips a good strong brown sauce, with a very litthe sugar and salt mixed in before you serve it up. FILLETS OF BEEF IN A MARINADE. Take the fillet from a sirloin of beef, let it be neatly larded, and put it into a marinade half of vinegar and half water, carrots, onions, one clove of garlic, parsley, peppercorns and ‘salt. {t must stand im this pickle for tio days ‘be- fore it is dressed; cut itin two or three pieces, according to the size of the fillet, and roast it; when nearly done, take it'up and glaze it, put it in the oven for a few minutes, glaze it again, return it to the oven for two minutes more, but be careful that it is not too hot, then dish it up. The satice the same as for a neck of venison au chevreuil, with tarragon vinegar. ROULEAU DE B@UF, OR ROLLED BEEF, . This is made of the fillet of beef cut into se- ven or eight thin slices, beaten flat, and spread over with veal forcemeat, neatly rolled up, and secured with three’ wooden skewers: they must stew ina stewpan of strong braize til Very ten- a7 Sapte Ger 5 MADE DISHES OP BEEF. ST der; when done, éut them in two, and lay thein’ regularly in the dish, with the cut side upper- most. The sauce must be a good ragoat of cocks-combs, fat livers, and mushrooms; or a strong brown cullis. : COTELETTES DE BHUF AUX COUCOMBRES, oR FILLETS OF BEEF WITH CUCUMBERS. Take the inner fillet of a sirloin of beef, cut it in three or four pieces, according to the size of the dish you mean to dress; having 4 good braize ready, lay it m, with thin sli¢es of bacon under and over, and let it stew between two fires till very tender ; then take it off, and let it remain in the braize till nearly cold; take it out, trim, and put it ina gentle oven, to be glazed over two or three times before it is served up. For the sauce, cut two cucumbers in round pieces, about the size of a shilling, carefully taking out all the seeds; fry them a light brown in some good clarified butter, drain them on a sieve, and put them in a stewpan, with about one pint ladle of good consommé, as much plain sauce (see Sauces); a lit=' tlesalt, and very little bit of sugar; this must boil very gently, till it takes the thickness of sauce in general. Squeeze in a little lemon, pour it in the dish and lay your béef over it. x _ FILETS DE BOUF 1 LA VINAIGRETTE. This is made With some thin slices of a rump of beef stewed the day before, eut very neatly, placed in a mireton round’your dish, with some clear aspic jelly in the middle and a little round the edges to garnish it. This dish is chiefly served ata supper, or cold entertainment. Or beef vinaigrette may be plain broiled te with 88 MADE DISHES OF BEEF. with a shallot cut in some strong gravy, pepper, salt, and a little vinegar. SURLONGE DE B@UF EN EPIGRAMME. Having roasted a sirloin “of beef, carefully take up the skip of the meat, which you must cut out and mince it in fine shreds; but take care that you do not cut the sides. Have a strong brown sauce ready with a few mushrooms, pep- per, and salt, and a little lemon juice; put in the mince, lay it inside the beef, and cover the skin over. Serve it up hot with a strong gravy. MINCE BEEF WITH ONIONS, Cut a few slices of rump of beef, before it is dressed into long slips, have a sharp knife and shred it very fine; put it in a stewpan with three table spoonfuls of clarified butter, a little salt, and stir it ona quick fire till done, then add about a gill of good consommé, and as much: sauce tournée, or plain sauce (see Sauces); let it boil gently tillit takes a good thickness; mean- while shred two large onions very fine, fry them in some clarified butter ; when brown drain them ona sieve, and put them ina small stewpan with the same quantity of consommé and sauce as di- rected for the beef; let each boil gently down till it takes the thickness of sauce in general; then first lay your small stewpan of beef in the dish, mix the onion with a little lemon juice, and lay them over the beef. PIECE DE BHUF A LA TREMBLANTE. Take a brisket of beef, roll it and tie it up tight, then stew it well in good braize as directed for the rumps of beef; turn some carrots and turnips which must. be blanched and stewed in | soma MADE DISHES OF BEFF. 89 some good broth. When done, drainthem on a sieve, and put them in a strong brown sauce, called espagnole (see Sauces), witha few mush- roons, eight or nine small girkins, and a table spoonful of capers, chopped fine, with a little lemon juice: when the beef is done, take it up, put it in the oven, and glaze it once or twice; then lay it on the dish with the sauce, and gar- nish it round. BEEF TONGUE ROASTED. Take a large fat tongue, scald it to get the skin off; cut off the root, and trim it so that it will stand well upon a dish; put a thin skewer strait through it, and stick a few cloves under where the root is cut off: tie it on the spit, sprinkle a little salt over it, and baste it with butter till done. For your sauce, reduce half a pint of port wine to a gill, and add five or six good spoonfuls of espagnole (see Sauces). When it boils, stir in about ‘two ounces of butter, and alittle lemon juice; lay the tongue on the dish, and pour the sauce round it. MINCE BEEF WITH CUCUMEERS. Prepare the beef exactly as directed for mince with onions; and have a brace of fine cucumbers cut into round pieces the size of a shilling ; fry them brown, drain them on a sieve, and put them in a small stewpan with about a gill of good consommé, and as much plain sauce (see Sauces), and a very little saltand sugar; let it simmer gently till it takes the thickness of the sauce you put in; lay the mince in the dish, and pour the cucumbers over it, with the addition of a little Yemon 90 | MADE DISHES OF MUTTON. Jemon juice before it is taken out of the stew- pan. MADE DISHES OF MUTTON. Saddle of Mutton alaBretonne. Cételettes de Mouton, glacés Leg of ditto ditto. aux navets, or stewed with Neck of ditto, au chevreuil. turnips. Fillet of ditto ditto, ———-—-——--——— glacés Cotelettes de Mouton, grillées with a purée of turnips. a litalienne. in - —— grillées. Harricot. ——-—— —-- sauté a la purée de pommes de terre. SADDLE OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE. Have your mutton skinned and prepared as for roasting; have some good braize ready of beef or mutton, and put it into a brazier that will just hold the saddle of mutton; let it stew for two or three hours, according to the size; the while blanch seme harricot beans till very tender, and drain them on a sieve. ‘Then pre- pare a sauce with three good onions, cut a carrot in three, with parsley, peppercorns, bam, salt, and a bay leaf, stirred on the fire with a bit of butter till of a fine brown, and add a spoonful of consommé; when it is thick add another, then two of plain sauce (see Sauces) ; when it has boiled to the thickness ofa good cream satice, pass it through a tammy, with one good table spoonful of vinegar; when through, put it ina stewpan with a few of the harricot beans. Take the mutton up, put it in the oven, and glaze it once or twice; lay the beans very hot in your dish, and place the mutton on the top. LEG OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE. | This is done in the same way: boil the leg, glaze MADE DISHES OF. MUTTON: 01 glaze it, and lay it over the above mentioned sauce. NECK: OF MUTTON AU CHEVREUIL, OR DRES- SED IN ROEBUCK FASHION, Have a large stale neck of mutton, take all the fat and skin nicely off the lean or fillet part, then neatly lard it with thin slips of bacon; it then must be put in a long pan (on purpose) with a good marinade, or pickle, half of vinegar and half wat er, enough to cover it, one bay leaf, peppercor ms, salt, carrots, onions, one clove of garlic, and a small bunch of parsley 5 : lay a sheet of paper over it, and let it stand for we or three gay: § then. carefully tie it on the pit, by. running a long skewer through it, and is or three ofl ones across, in order to keep it steady, and take great care of it till well done. When done take it off the spit, lay it on a dish, and glaze the larded part: put it in a gentle oven to glaze it again before it is dished. Pre- pare the sauce with two table s spoonfuls of 'Tar- ragon vinegar reduced to one; add a little strong gravy, and three or four large spoonfuls of plain sauce, which play boil till nearly the thickness of other sauces; about two ounces of butter must be aived in, and a little lemon juice; pour it on a hot dish, lay the mutton om the top, and serve it dete table. FILETS DE MOUTON AU CHEVREUIL: Take the fillets out from two or three stalé necks of mutton, prepare them exactly as di- rected in the last recei ipt, glaze them and serve them Op with the same sauce. If you like, f hey may be stewed in good strong braize, and when 6 svelt 92 MADE DISHES OF MUTTON. well done taken out, and glazed, the same as when roasted. COTELETTES DE MOUTON GRILLEES A L’ITALI- ENNE. Chuse a fine large stale neck of mutton, ‘cut it into cutlets, each must have a bone; beat and trim each of them very neatly, scraping the bone quite clean. Toss them in a basin with one egg, and a little pepper and salt; make some bread crumbs, and put a little butter on to clarify ; first throw them in the bread crumbs, and lay them carefully on a sheet of paper, then dip them in the clarified butter; bread crumb them, and lay them on paper again. Chop a little parsley and lemon thyme, put it in a small stew- pan with one clove of garlic and a small bit of butter; stir them on the fire till they begin to fry, then add two table spoonfuls of strong con- somme, which must be reduced till nearly dis- solved, then add four small spoonfuls of butter Sauce (see Sauces); stir it well, and cover it till wanted. ‘Ten minutes before dinner broil the cut- lets on a good charcoal fire made of the ashes, and. place them neatly round the dish; make the same very hot (but not to boil), squeeze in a lit- tle lemon juice, pour it in the middle and serve them up. Veal may be dressed in the same way. COTELETTES DE MOUTON GRILLEES. These are prepared with butter, bread crumbs and eggs, the same as directed in the last receipt. Broil them on a charcoal fire; when done dish them up, with some good strong gravy poured into the dish, but not over the cutlets. COTELETTES MADE DISHES OF MUTTON. 93 COTELETTES DE MOUTON SAUTES h LA PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE. Cut a neck of mutton into cutlets, each hav- ing a bone, which you must beat. and trim very neatly; then lay them in the cutlet pan with some clarified butter, and cover them up till wanted to be dressed; the while cut and slice five or six good potatoes, boil them with a bit of butter as for mashing; when done drain them on a sieve, and stir them well in a stewpan, witha bit of butter, pepper and salt, and some good cream ; rub the whole through a sieve, and put it again in a stewpan to warm; then put the cut- lets on a moderate fire, turn them tilldone; add a spoonful of consommé, or veal broth, and a small bit ef glaze; stir them about till well glazed, place them round the dish, and put the potatoes hot in the middle. COTELETTES DE MOUTON GLACKS AUX NAVETS, OR STEWED WITH TURNIPS. Have a couple of necks of mutton, cut them into sixteen good thick cutlets; beat them a little and lay them between slices of fat bacon, with the scrag ends and trimmings chopped in pieces, placing some at the bottom and some over the cutlets, with a carrot, onion, parsley, clove of garlic, peppercorn, and a small spoon- ful of salt, and some good strong braize, of any former stewing, just enough to cover them ; let them stew very gently for two hours, or rather more (when tender), take the whole from the fire together to cool, then trim them very neatly, and lay them on the cutlet pan. A quarter of an hour before dinner put them in a gentle oven, G2 and 94 MADE DISHES OF MUTTON. and glaze them two or three times with some glaze, a small bit of butter, and a little gravy mixed up with a brush and laid on. them; cut and fry turnips as for turnip soup, put them in a stewpan, with a good ladieful of espagnole, and as much plain sauce, a little bit of sugar, and salt; when reduced to the thickness of the sauce at first, then add a little lemon juice, pour them in the centre of the cutlets, and send them to table. . COTELETTES DE MOUTON GLACES } LA PUREE DE NAVETS, OR MUTTON CUTLETS WITH TUR- NIP PURGE. Prepare these the same as directed in the last receipt, and have five or six good turnips cut in slices and boiled till tender: when done, well squeeze them, and put these into a stewpan on the fire with about two ounces of butter, till they begin to fry, then add a ladleful of good con- sommé, which must be reduced till of the same thickness as before you put it; then two table- spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces), which must be stirred well together till it boils; add about half a tea-spoonful of sugar and the same of salt; pass the whole through a tammy while hot, adding the while nearly half a pint of good cream ; put it again in a stewpan, and when the cutlets are done proceed as directed before, pour- ing the purée in the middle, and send it hot to table. COTELETTES DE MOUTON EN HARICOT, OR HAR- RICOT OF MUTTON. Prepare the cutlets as directed in the two for- mer receipts, and the while cut some mores and MADE DISHES OF MUTTON, » 95 aid iry them, as directed in cutlets with turnips. A few carrots blanched, four good cabbage let- fuces, and half a dozen fine heads of celery, cut the size of a shilling; when they are blanched till tender, lay them separate on a large hair sieve to drain; then put your turnips in a middle sized stewpan, with nearly a quart of good’ con- sommeé and espagnole mixed, and six or eight good table spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces), which must be reduced to the thickness of the sauce when put in; put your celery to stew in a small quantity of good consommé¢; your carrots and lettuces must be separately stewed in some good beef stock ; when the carrots and celery are well stewed down, drain them on a sieve, and put them in the stewpan with the turnips, adding a little sugar and salt to the sauce; when the sauce looks smooth, and these three kinds of ve- getables are properly prepared, pour them into a deep dish, ora dish with a border made of paste (see Pastry), and when your cutlets have been well glazed, dress them neatly round on the top ofthe vegetables; then take the lettuces, squeeze them in a napkin, cut them in four or five pieces and Jay them in the centre of the cutlets, accord- ing to your fancy; a few mushrooms may be added, and some cauliflowers nicely boiled and laid round between the border and the cutlets; peas or asparagus may be stewed or added when in season. This is most proper for a flank dish, or indeed it may be served in a tureen, adding more sauce and vegetables, sf MARE ee | ( 96 ) MADE DISHES OF VEAL. Téte de Veau 4 l’Italienne, or Calf’s Head a l’Italienne. — ala Béchamelle. ——--——~ Hashed. ——-—— 41]’Espagnole, or with Brown Sauce. Neck of Veal a la Créme. —— a la Royale. ———- —— pique glacé 4 la Purée d’Oseille, or with Sorrel. ————-—— a la Saint-Garat. Loin of Veal 4 la Béchamelle. —~———- a l’Espagnole. —————- with a Ragott. Fricandeaux de Veau a la Purée d’Oseille, or a Neck of Veal with Sorrel. aux petits Pois, or with young Peas. aux Asperges en petits Pois, or with As- paragus Peas. ———--—— ——— 4 la Purée de Navets, or with Turnips Purée. Fillet of Veal in a Ragotit. Veal Cutlets grillés 4 l’Italienne. with Mushrooms. ————_ ——.——. 4 la Saint-Garat. caren a l’Espagnole, or with Brown Sauce. Veal Sweetbreads roasted. ——-——--—-—-- Jarded, in a Ragoit. ————-——- 4 la Dauphine. ———_———-———— in Collops with Tarragon Sauce, ————__——-~ 4 la Maitre-d’ Hotel. —— a la Vénitienne. ————-—_-—_——— 4 I’Italienne. ——— ——-————. aux petits Pois. ———————- 4 la Béchamelle. —————————— 4 la Créme, Mince Veal a la Portugaise. ————-— in a Gratin. ———-~ 4 la Royale. ————~ in a Timbale. ; Blanquette de Veau aux petits Pois, or with young Peas. —— ou Champignons, or with Mushrooms. eens en Casserole au Riz. —————— ————-— Ala Béchamelle, —— eee 4)’ Allemande. een nrtmnnrcmennee tt Macaron}, or with Macaroni, Tendons MADE DISHES OF VEAL. OF Tendons de Veau ala Purée d’Oseille, or with Sorrel. - aux petits Pois, or with young Peas. ——~ —————— 4 la Purée de Laitues, or with Lettuce Purée. Breast of Veal rolled in a Ragout. Calves Brains a la Ravigote, or with Tarragon Sauce. wenn En Matelotte. ——- ala Vénitienne. ° —————- en Ragoiit Mélée, or in a mixed Ragotit. CALF’S HEAD GRILLE A L’ITALIENNE. Put a calf’s head with the skin on in a large brazier of cold water, with two handfuls of salt, be careful to skim it, letting it boil gently till well done, then take it out of the water, and likewise the bones must be taken out of the head, lay it on a large dish, beat up an egg with some pepper, salt and butter, clarified by the side of the fire. First egg it well with a brush or fea- thers, and shake some bread crumbs over it, then sprinkle the butter all over it with a spoon and bread crumbs again; half an hour before dinner (if you should prepare it early) put t in a gentle oven for a few minutes, salamander it till of a fine brown colour, and put it again in the oven or hot closet till wanted. The brains must be well picked and blanched by themselves, with a little salt, lemon juice, and a small bit of butter drained on a sieve, and garnished round the head, with the tongue skin- ned and cut in four slices placed according to your taste; Italienne sauce (see Sauces) must be poured round the head and over the tongue and brains. Be careful in sending it very hot to table. CALF’S HEAD A LA BECHAMELLE. Prepare this exactly as directed in the last G 4 receipt, 08 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. receipt, only as soon as it is well done, take ié out of the water, bone it, and dish it up with the tongue and brains garnished round it; then pour some good white béchamelle sauce (see Sauces) over it, with a few small mushrooms if you have them. Be careful while the head is boiling to skim it, and keep it as white as _pos- sible, and let it have plenty of water. CALF’S HEAD HASHED. a Let it be prepared as directed in the two former receipts, but boiled the day before, ex- cept the brains, which are better boiled just be- ‘fore you want them. Then prepare the sauce with a green cnion, cut in three or four pieces ; three stalks of parsley, a bit of lean ham, one clove of garlic and a few trimmings of mush- rooms ; put these on the fire with nearly a quar- ter of a pound of butter, to do gently till they ‘ begin to fry; then take them off and add one: good spoontul of flour, and mix them well toge- ther; then add about three pints of good con- sommé and beef stock mixed, stirring in a table spoonful, and then another, and so on till the whole is mixed in and smooth; put it on the fire and carefully stir it till it boils; if too thick, add a little more consommé, and let it boil gently till it takes the thickness of sauce in general. ‘The while chop some parsley, lemon thyme, and a few mushrooms very fine, stew them in a middle size stewpan, with a small bit of butter till they begin to fry, then add a small ladleful of consommé, and when it boils, aqueeze the sauce through a tammy to the herbs; Jet it boil gently on one side ofthe stove, ae . the MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 99 the ,meat,:the white skin off the head and the tongue. in small squares, put them into the sauce which must boil very gently, and if too thick, add.some consommé to keep it the proper thick- ness ; half an hour before dinner, put in half a botile of Madeira, and before you serve it up a little .cayenne pepper to your palate, and the juice of two or three lemons; mix the whole well together, pour it intoa deep dish garnished with some fried. bread and the brains laid on the top; it may be put ina dish with a paste border (see Pastry), if so, there needs no bread. \ CALF’Ss HEAD A-L’ESPAGNOLE, OR WITH 3 BROWN SAUCE. Boil the head.as directed in the receipt 4 Ja ‘béchamelle, bone it; when done, dish it up with the brains and: tongue garnished on the top of the head; you must have a good salt :beef tongue boiled, which place nicely round the head, having ready .a good brown sauce, 4,.l’espagnole or Spanish. sauce (see Sauces), with some mush- rooms and, the juice of a lemon ; pour it all over the head and,tongue just before you send it to table. | . ‘NECK OF VEAL A LA CREME. Take .a ljarge neck, chop off the scrag end, and trim itso that it may lay flat onthe dish, but be sure not to take off the chine bone: tie it even on the spit and let it be well roasted. ‘When done, :put it in the ‘larder,to cool ; when thoroughly cold, cut outall the meat. of the fillet, shred it very fine, have some béchamelle sauce ready, reduced to a double thickness. (see,Sauces), but be careful it does not turn oily. Stir the G5 veal eee 100 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. veal in with a little salt if required, then pour it in the neck, smooth it over with a knife, shake some bread crumbs over it, then some clarified butter (as directed for the calf’s head a l’Ita- lienne), and bread crumbs again: this may be done in the morning, and half an hour before dinner, put it in a slow oven or hot closet, but be careful it does not boil. Brown it over with the salamander a fine colour, and serve it up with some good gravy in the dish. NECK OF VEAL A LA ROYALE. Prepare and roast this the same as directed in the last receipt; the only difference is, there must be part of a good beef tongue, minced in smaJl squares, and the veal minced the ‘same: then proceed with the sauce and prepare it as in the preceding receipt, with the gravy in the dish; add a few mushrooms. NECK OF VEAL PIQUE, GLAC# A LA PUREE D’OSEILLE, OR LARDED WITH SORREL SAUCE. Take a white neck, and cut all the skin and fat neatly off the fillet; but only off the lean part or fillet, not taking any from the ribs. ‘The chine bone must be taken off, however, neat- ly, and closely lard it with some good fat bacon, and put it down to roast two hours, or one hour and a half, according to its size; take it up a few minutes before it is wanted, and glaze it once or twice, lightly touching it with the brush over the larded part: the sorrel sauce being prepared (see Sauces), pour it in the dish, and lay the veal over it. It may be stewed as a fricandeau (see Fricandcan). NECK MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 101 NECK OF VEAL A LA SAINT-GARAT. This must be prepared like the last, by cut- ting the skin and fat neatly off the fillet. Then cut some ham about an inch and a half long and the thickness of a quill; stick the pieces in equal lines, by drawing a larding pin through the veal; when it is well done all over, put some trimmings of veal and beef, and bones, if you have them, at the bottom ofa brazier or stew- pan; then some carrots, onions, parsley, a clove of garlick, a bay leaf, peppercorns, and a few bards of fat bacon laid smoothly over upon these ; lay the veal and some more bards of bacon to cover it, then lay the remainder of the trim- mings of veal, and just cover it with some good braize or beef stock, whichever you may have, a little salt, and a round paper well buttered laid over it: put it to stew very gently till you find the veal is done; take it off, and let it stand in the liquor till nearly cold: then take it out, and having a sharp knife trim it very neatly by cutting the fillet very smooth, in order to show it spot- ted with the ham; half an hour before dinner put it in a moderate oven in a copper dish; when hot glaze it, then put it in again. Repeat this three or four times, the while reducing a good pint of the liquor it was stewed in, to which add five or six spoonfuls of espagnole (or brown sauce, see Sauces); when this boils and is per- fectly smooth, squeeze in the juice of half a le- mon : place the veal ona hot dish, and pour the sauce round it. : LOIN OF VEAL A LA BECHAMELLE. q e eo ° ° . Take a white loin of veal, the size according to your 102 MADE. DISHES GF VEAL. your company, chop out the inner bone, and trim it so that it may smooth om the dish; chop off part of the chump end, and put it down to reast SO as to be well done by dinner time; have your béchamelle sauce ready; and afew minutes be- fore dinner, take it wp, and cut a deep square hole just close towhere the chump was cut off; minceor shred the lean you cut out very fine, put it in the hot béchamelle sauce, and pour it again into the hole; serve it up with a teast well buttered un- ler the kidney, and: plenty of gravy. Some cooks when they dress it, take the whole of the skin off the loin, mince the lean, pour it i the lem again, and cover the skin over: but the first is the best way, both for the look and is most likely to suit the palate of the company, being both meat and mince. LOIN OF VEAL A L’ESPAGNOLE, OR IN THE SPANISH FASHION. Trim a fine loin of veal as directed in the last receipt, and cut some pieces of raw ham in pieces about four inches iu Iength, place them in rows over the veal by piercing a large larding pin through every part it will go, cut them all close to the veal, and put it down to roast in good time to be well done by dinner, for the last five minutes baste it with butter, and shake flour over it. Serve it up on a hot dish, with large pieces of fried bread about the kidney, and a sharp brewn sauce with a little more lemon juice than usual, LOIN OF VEAL WITH A RAGOOT. Prepare this as directed in the two former re- ceipts, but be careful that it is not roasted too high MADE DISHES OF VEAD. 103 high a colour; then prepare a ragoit with truf- fles, mushrooms, cocks’-combs, livers, &c. &c. artichoke bottoms well stewed; place the arti- chokes round the dish, your veal in the centre, and pour the ragofit round and over the arti- chokes; send it to table. FRICANDEAU DE VEAU A LA PUREE D’OSEILLE, OR A NUT OF VEAL WITH SORREL. Cut out the nut of a fine large leg of veal, take off the fat and skin off the outside; when it is smooth and neatly trimmed lard it well, when done put it in some boiling water to blanch for about three minutes, then take it out, and put it to stew in the same manner as the neck of veal a la Saint-Garat, and when done leave it in the liquor till nearly cold, then take it out and put it in the oven a short time before dinner, in order to glaze it, two or three times; prepare the sorrel as directed (see Sauces); pour it on the dish, and lay the veal over it. FRICANDEAU DE VEAU AUX PETITS POIS. Prepare this the same as the former, but in- stead of sorrel pour some peas very nicely stew- ed on the dish, before you lay the veal on. (For the stewed peas see Vegetables). FRICANDEAUX DE VEAU AUX ASPERGES EN PETITS POIS, OR WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. Take out the nut and prepare it as before di- rected ; cut your asparagus in small peas, taking care you do not cut the hard and bitter part ; blanch and stew them in the manner as peas, with the same béchamelle sauce, pour them on the dish, and lay your veal, when well glazed, over them. FRICANDEAYV \ A] ; a as See Spear A gl eee =“ 104 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. FRICANDEAU DE VEAUALA PUREE DE NAVETS, OR WITH TURNIPS PUREE. Lay a purée of turnips (made as for mutton cutlets) in the bottom of the dish, and piace the fricandeau on the top, glazed and done as before directed. FILLET OF VEAL IN A 'RAGOOT. Chuse a large white fillet of veal, take out the bone, and in its place put plenty of good force- meat; tie it up well, put it on the spit, and cover if with buttered paper; put it down two or three hours before dinner, according to the size; have a ragotit like that for the loin of veal with stewed artichokes, cut into any shape you please, the veal being placed in the centre of the dish, the artichokes round it; then pour out the ragoit, but not over the veal. VEAL CUTLETS GRILLEES A L’ITALIENNE. Cut and trim seven cutlets from a neck of veal, toss them into one egg, beaten up with pepper and salt; have some bread crumbs ready, and some clarified butter, by the side of the fire; take the cutlets separately out of the egg, bread crumb them, and lay them on a sheet of paper, dip them in the clarified butter, and bread them again; lay them on the paper till about twenty minntes before dinner, then piace them on the _ gridiron, the side which lay downwards to be placed uppermost, and put them over a clear charcoal fire, made principally with ashes, till of a fine brown colour on both sides ; dish them up immediately, and pour Italienne sauce in the centre just at the moment of their being served. VEAL MADE DISHES OF VEAL&l. 103 VEAL CUTLETS GRILLEES WITH MUSHROOMS. Do these in bread crumbs and broil them as directed for the last; take some mushrooms, stew them in butter; when stewed a few minutes, and nearly done, add about half a pint of beef stock, and four or five table-spoonfuls of espagnole, or brown sauce (see Sauces), and let this reduce gently till of a moderate thickness. When din- ner-is wanted squeeze in a little lemon juice, and a-very small quantity of cayenne pepper ; stir it well together and pour it in the middle of the cutlets, always taking care not to pour the sauce over the cutlets whenever bread-crumbed ; you may omit the cayenne if not liked. VEAL CUTLETs A’ LA SAINT-GARAT. Cut seven cutlets off a neck of veal, you need not trim them but beat them; eut some pieces of raw ham an inch long, and the thickness of .. a quill, and with a larding pin neatly, thus, stick about sixteen in each cutlet. Then put --- them to stew exactly as directed for the neck ’- of veal a la Saint-Garat; when done leave them in the liquor till cool, then take them out, and with a sharp knife trim them neatly, by cutting them . _.smooth, and scraping the bones clean; lay them _ ona cutlet pan, put them in the oven and glaze them three times, putting them in the oven each time for a few minutes; then dish them up. The ‘sauce prepared the same as for the neck of veal i a la Saint-Garat, with the addition of a few mush- rooms, | VEAL 106 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. VEAL CUTLETS A L’ESPAGNOLE, OR WITH BROWN SAUCE. These are sometimes called Scotch collops.— First cut a nut out of a leg of veal; cut it intoa dozen or more thin slices, beat them, trim them as nearly round as possible, and lay them in a cutlet pan, with some clarified butter, over which sprin- kle a little salt. ‘Ten minutes before dinner, set them over a quick fire to brown themselves; when done place them round the dish, neatly pouring the fat out of the pan, into which put three or four spoonfuls of consommé,’and the same of brown sauce (see Sauces); when it has boiled together, pass it through a tammy into a small stewpan with a few mushrooms, set this on the fire again to boil; when smooth, and rather thick, stir in a small bit of butter, and a little lemon juice ; just before it goes to table pour it over the cutlets or collops. VEAL SWEETBREADS ROASTED. To make a dish, take three heart sweetbreads, trim off the tough part, and blanch them for three minutes in a stewpan of water with a little salt ; take them off and put them in a bason of cold water till cool, have an egg beat up in a dish, some bread crumbs, and butter clarified, run a skewer through them, and tie them on the spit ; egg them all over with a brush, shake some bread crumbs over them, with a spoon, sprinkle them - over with clarified butter,and shake some crumbs over them again; put them down to roast for a quarter of an hour, then take them: off the skewer, and dish them up, pouring under ee hi ittle MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 107 little butter sauce (see Sauces) mixed with a spoonful of gravy, a small bit of glaze, and a little drop of lemon juice; let it be hot, but not boiling, and well mixed together before you pour it under the sweet-breads. VEAL SWEETBREADS LARDED IN A RAGOOT. | Take three heart sweetbreads, trim and scald them for a minute: when cold lard them with thin slips of fat bacon very neatly, stew them in a braize that a fricandeau has been done in, if you can; if not, lay two or three thin bards of bacon in the bottom of the stewpan, then the sweet- breads and three more bards over them, vege- tables the same as for the fricandeau, though in a smaller quantity. When they have stewed very gently for nearly twenty minutes, take them from the fire and leave them in the liquor till cold, then take them out, and a short time before . dinner put them in the oven to heat, lightly glaz- ing them every two or three minutes; then have aragotit ready with mushrooms, livers, cocks’- combs, &c. mixed well up, which put into your dish, and lay the sweetbreads over them ; they are then ready for table. VEAL SWEETBREADS A LA DAUPHINE. The sweetbreads must be larded and stewed in the manner directed for the last; but before you put them to stew cuta slit in one side of each, but not to let it pass through ; into which put a farce made with veal (see Forcemeat); when stewed and prepared, as directed in the last re- ceipt, pour in the disha good ragoit with truffles, mushrooms, fat livers, combs, artichokes’ bottoms, , stewed 108 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. stewed and cut in small rounds, and a few balls of forcemeat, with the juice of a small orange; lay the sweetbreads on the top, and send it hot to table. / VEAL SWEETBREADS AL ESTRAGON, OR WITH TARRAGON SAUCE. Chuse a heart and throat sweetbread, or two throat. sweetbreads will do; blanch them for three or four minutes, then stew them between bards of fat bacen, with a ladleful of braize or beef stock for a quarter of an hour or more; take them off the fire, and Jet them stand in the liquor till cold; then take them out, cut them in slices, and place them neatly round the dish; put them in the oven for afew minutes to warm, then pour some good tarragon sauce (see Sauces) over them, and send them. hot to table. VEAL SWEETBREADS ALA MAITRE D’HOTEL. Prepare these and dish them up as directed in the last receipt, but have your maitre d’hétel sauce ready (see Sauces); pour it over them hot just before you send them to table. VEAL SWEETBREADSA LA VENITIENNE. Take three heart sweetbreads, blanch and stew them between bards of fat bacon as directed in the former receipts ; take them out of the braize while hot, drain them ona sieve, and dish them with Vénitienne sauce (see Sauces) over them. VEAL SWEETBREADS-A L ITALIENNE. Prepare these the same as in the receipt for tarragon sauce, but instead of which send them with Italienne sauce (see Sauces). VEAL MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 109° _ ‘VEAL SWEETBREADS AUX PETITS POIS, OR | WITH PEAS, Having stewed a heart and throat sweetbread, when cool cut them in slices in a good béchamelle sauce, into which put half a pint of young stewed peas (see Vegetables), a leason of one yellow egg, and a table spoonful of cream, mixed in before you dish it up. VEAL SWEETBREADS A LA BECHAMELLE. Take one heart and one throat sweetbread, or two throat sweetbreads will do, just blanch them and put them to stew in some good braize for fifteen minutes; take them out, and when cool, irim them neatly round, and cut them intolerable thin slices into some good béchamelle sauce (see Sauces); make the whole very hot and send it te table—if you have a few mushrooms it will be a good addition. | VEAL SWEETBREADS 4 LA CREME. Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the last receipt, cut them in round slices into a stew-@ pan; then prepare a sauce with the trimmings of a few mushrooms, two or three stalks of parsley, — a bit of onion, and a small piece of lean ham, with about twe ounces of butter, stir them on the fire till the butter begins to fry, and stir in near a spoonful of flour; when well mixed, add a: table spoonful of good pale consomm:, and when that is mixed put another and another till itis very thin; stir it on the fire till it boils. If it should be any ways thick when boiled, add some more consommé to thin it, and then let it boil down ) till it becomes very thick like béchamelle sauce, | then pour in some good cream. as for the above are sauce 3 110 MADE DISHES’OF VEAL. sduce; when this takes the thickness of bécha. nelle, squeeze it through. a tammy to the sweet- breads, with the addition of a few mushrooms, if you have any ; adda little salt, and a very small quantity of lemon juice, before you send it to table. MINCE VEALA LA PORTUGAISE, OR WITH POACHED EGGS. Having roasted part of a fillet of veal, mince it very fine, and put it in astewpan; have some good hot béchamelle sauce ready, pour enough over to make it of a tolerable thickness, which must depend on your judgment ; then have a stew- pan full of water, with a little vinegar in it, and when it boils, quickly break in two eggs, and keep it boiling quick (but not so as to boil over) ;. when, on trying them, you find them done, take them out with a colander spoon, and put them in another stewpan of clear warm water; break two more, and use them in the same manner, till you have six well done; and when the dinner is wanted, squeeze a little lemon juice in the mince, pour it on a hot dish, take your eggs out of the water, neatly trim them, and lay them on the top of the veal. MINCE VEAL IN A GRATIN. Mince and prepare this the same as the last receipt, with some good béchamelle sauce, pour it in the dish, shake a few bread crumbs over the top, sprinkle a little clarified butter over them, then crumbs ‘again; have the salamander ready, hold it over till of a fine brown colour, and serve it on table. : MINCE . w MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 111 MINCE VEALALA ROYALE. ‘Take about half the quantity of veal as directed in the two last receipts, mince it and make it up with some tongue minced full as fine, then add some béchamelle sauce, with two spoonfuls of butter sauce (see Sauces), a little lemon juice, and pour itin the dish hot, just as the dinner is served. For the three last receipts you must have borders: made to your dishes, if shallow, with paste (see Pastry), if deep, some garnitures of puff paste (see Pastry). MINCE VEAL IN A TIMBALE. Make some mince veal as directed in the first receipt of the minces; keep it hot by the fire, fry some good plain pancakes, without any sugar or lemon peel, take a round or oval mould well but- tered; lay a pancake at the bottom, and all round, then lay the rest open and spread each with the mince, rolling them neatly up and lay- jing them close in the mould; cover them up with a pancake; half an hour before dinner, put it in a gentle oven, and when wanted turn them out in the dish, with a little strong gravy in the bot- tom after turned out. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX PETITS POIS, OR WITH YOUNG PEAS. Take part of a fillet of veal, cut it in thin round pieces about the size of a shilling intoa stewpan; have some young peas stewed (see Vegetables), put them to the veal, and add some good béchamelle sauce. Before you send it to table, stir in one yellow egg and a table spoonful of good cream, with garnitures of puff paste, or a border of paste to your dish (see Pastry). H 2 BLANQUETTE ‘Hi t { { i i a q i af ] ' fe 2| i ' eee ee TSE ISS + ne ies Sn 112 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS, OR WITH MUSHROOMS. Prepare this dish as the last; instead of peas add mushrooms of the smallest kind. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE AU RIZ. Cut the veal in a blanquette into some good béchamelle sauce, which cover up in a stewpan till wanted; then stew about half a pound of rice for two or three hours with some consommé without the fat being taken off, and a good bit of lean ham; let this stew to a good stiff paste; if too stiff, add a little more consommé. Cut the crumb of a loaf, about six inches in circumference and three in length, making the top and bottom fiat, so that it may stand upon the dish; then with a spoon place the rice neatly round and over the bread, and smooth it with a knife, formed thus «Zip: and when quite cold, bake it of’a fine brown colour in a very hot oven; take it out a fei minutes before dinner, cut out the bread, pour the blanquette of veal in the centre very hot, and serve it up. BLANQUETTE OF VEAU } LA BECHAMELLE. Have a good nut of veal well roasted, cut it as directed in the former receipt, put it in some good béchamelle sauce (see Sauces); serve it up hot, with a little drop of lemon juice. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L/ALLEMANDE. Cut some paste, the same as for borders, in very fine shreds like vermicelli, put it in boiling water with a little salt, and blanch it for three minutes, then drain it on a sieve, and put it to stew in a small stewpan, with a bit of butter and a very MADE DISHES OF VEAL. 113 a very little salt and pepper. When it begins to fry, add about two spoonfuls of consommé ; shake it well that it may not stick to the bottom, and when the consommé is reduced add two table spoonfuls of béchamelle sauce, and a very little hutmeg grated, lay this at the bottom of the dish, and pour a blanquette of veal a la bécha- melle over it, made as directed in the last re- ceipt. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AU MACARONI, OR WITH | MACARONI, Boil a handful of fine pipe macaroni in a mo- _ derate sized stewpan of water, with a spoonful of salt and a good bit of butter; when tender, drain it carefully on a clear hair sieve, and when rather cool, cut it in pieces about two inches in length into a stewpan; cut your veal in round pieces into it, then pour some good béchamelle sauce over, and shake it well together ; make it very hot, serve it to table, with a little lemon juice squeezed in, the last minute. TENDONS DE VEAU A LA PURSE D’OSEILLE, OR WITH SORREL SAUCE. Take one or two breasts of veal, according to the size of your dish; cut out the gristle or ten- dons ; each must be the breadth of two bones ; blanch and skim them in a large stewpan of wa- ter with a little salt, then put them to stew be- tween bards of bacon and trimmings of veal, both under and over them, with vegetables, and filled up with strong braize, stewed the same as for fricandeau of veal; when done take them off the fire, let them stand in the liquor till cold, then take them out, trim them neatly, and H 3 place SS 114 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. place them ona cutlet pan. Half.an hour before dinner put them in a gentle oven, and glaze ‘them three or four times as they are warming. When the dinner is wanted have the dish hot, pour the sorrell (see Vegetables) in the bottom, and lay the tendons of veal neatly on the top. TENDONS DE VEAU AUX PETITS POIS, OR WITH YOUNG PEAS. : Prepare these as directed in the last receipt ; have a pint or quart (according to your dish) of young peas, blanch and stew them well, as di- rected for stewed peas (see Vegetables), with lenty of béchamelle sauce; pour them very hot into the bottom of the dish, and lay the ten- dons over them well glazed. TENDONS DE VEAU A LA PURSE DE LAITUES, OR : WITH LETTUCE PUREE, Take eight or a dozen cabbage lettuces, blanch them well, drain them a few minutes on a hair sieve, with a wooden spoon rub the whole through, and lay it at one corner of another sieve for an hour or two, till the whole of the water has run from it; put it then into a stewpan with a bit of butter, which must be stirred on the fire till it begins to fry, then add a table-spoonful of good consommé ; when this is well reduced, putin five or six table-spoonfuls of good bécha- melle sauce; stir it on the fire till it boils, put in a little salt if wanted, take it from the fire, stir one yolk of an egg and two table-spoonfuls of cream in a bason, pour it on a warm dish, and Jay the tendons over it. BREAST OF VEAL ROLLED IN A RAGOOUT. Chuse a breast of veal, take out the bones, beat MADE DISHES OF VEAE: 115 beat it and spread it over with forcemeat of veal (see Forcemeats); one half of the forcemeat must be beaten up with the yolks of five or six eggs in a mortar till very smooth, and spread half the breast with the plain and half with the yellow forcemeat (that it may appear marbled when cut); then roll it up tight, and tie it well with packthread; stew it very tender in some good braize, in which a rump of beef had been stewed, or veal cutlets 4 la Saint-Garat. When done let it stand in the braize till nearly cold, then take it out, trim it, lay it ona dish, put it in a gentle oven, and glaze it three or four times; have a rago(it ready of truffles, mush- rooms, cocks’-combs, sweetbreads, fat livers, and artichoke bottoms, well prepared, as directed fora ragoit; shake these gently in some good béechamelle sauce, making them very hot, and a leason of two yolks of eggs, with a little cream | mixed in, and a few drops of lemon juice; put the whole in the dish, and lay the breast of veal in the centre. CALVES’ BRAINS A LA RAVIGOTE, OR WITH TARRAGON SAUCE. Take the brains out of two heads, put them in water, pick all the blood from them, and lay them in another bason of cold water; have rea- dy on the fire a middle size stewpan of water boiling, with a little salt, half the juice of a lemon, a small bit of butter, and some common tart paste rolled up about the size of the finger, must be put in; let the brains boil very gently - ull done before they are dished up, drain them on a hair sieve for a few minutes, then place H 4 them it | Hy " | ees 116 MADE DISHES OF VEAL. them properly in the dish, and pour tarragon sauce over them. CALVES’ BRAINS EN MATELOTTE. Prepare a forcemeat of veal (see Forcemeat), roll it about an inch long, and the thickness of your little finger; blanch it well in some beef stock for five or six minutes, then drain it ona hair sieve, and put it to stew in some good con- sommé till it is nearly reduced, then put it in some good white béchamelle sauce with a few mushrooms; a leason of one yellow egg anda spoonful of cream must be added when it is very hot; it must not be put near the fire afterwards. Having prepared the brains as directed in the last receipt, dish them up neatly and pour the sauce over them, placing the forcemeat between the brains. CALVES BRAINS A LA VENITIENNE. Have some butter sauce (see Sauces), put about six table-spoonfuls in a small stewpan, chop some parsley very fine, and blanch it for half a minute; when well drained on a sieve, put it in the sauce and make it very hot, but be careful that it does not boil, then add a little lemon juice and a leason, as directed in the last receipt, stir it well up and pour it over the brains, dished as before directed. CALVES BRAINS EN’ RAGOOUT MELEsS. Have a good ragofit of truffles, mushrooms, cocks’.combs, fat livers, &c. and artichoke bot- toms, with some forcemeat balls, both yellow and plain ; stir them gently in some good bécha- melle sauce, make them very hot, with the addi- tion of a little lemon juice, dish.up the brains, and MADE DISHES OF LAMB. 117 and pour the ragodt over them; if the dish should be flat and shallow, make a border of paste round the edge, that the sauce may not soil the edge of it. (For the border see Pastry.) MADE DISHES OF LAMB. Leg of Lamb stewed with Peas. SEE --—- with Spinage. ——————--———-— 4 Ja Purée de Laitues, or with Lettuces. ———-—_-——_--—— aux Concombres, or with Cucumbers. Breast of Lamb rolled ina Ragoitit. shot Sriitiin Ta to be eat cold. ——-——. grillée with Italian Sauce, Loin of Lamb a la Kebobed. Lamb Cutlets en Epigramme, ——_—_—_—_———- with Asparagus Peas. —— grillées with Mushrooms. ——— aux Concombres, or with Cucumbers. al’ Allemande. ——____—-— 4 laPurée de Lentilles, or with Lentile Purée. a a la Purée de Laitues, or with Lettuce Purée. ——-—«—— au Céleri, or with Celery. Lambs’ Pluck plain, LEG OF LAMB STEWED WITH PEAS. Take a leg of house lamb, grass will do, but the former Is better, and stew it in some stock or beef braize. When nicely done, take it out, put itin a slow oven and glaze it three or four times; then have some good young peas well stewed, with sorne good béchamelle sauce (see Vegetables), pour them in the dish and lay the leg on the top, and cut the loin into cutlets, and do them on the fire with some butter and some strong gravy; when nearly done shake them wellin their glaze, dish them round the lamb over the peas, and send them hot to table. LEG OF LAMB WITH SPINAGE. Pick and well wash some spinage, boil it and 118 MADE DISHES OF LAMB. prepare it as directed (see Vegetables); dress it neatly in the bottom of the dish and lay the lamb over it, glazed and prepared as directed in the last receipt, with the cutlets garnished round it. . LEG OF LAMB 4k LA PURSE DE LAITUES, OR WITH LETTUCE PUREE. Take a dozen or more cabbage lettuces, ac- cording to the size of the dish; pick them well from the stalks in a large pan of water, well wash and blanch them; when done drain them on asieve for a few minutes, then with a wooden spoon rub them all through on a plate; let them drain again inside of the sieve for one or two hours, and stir them well in a small stewpan with a bit of butter; when it begins to fry add a lit- tle good consommé, and when that is reduced put in some good cream sauce, and let it boil a ‘few minutes; just before you pour it in the dish, mix in the yolks of two eggs, taking care the dish 1s hot; lay the lamb on the top and garnish it with the cutlets, as before directed. LEG OF LAMB AUX CONCOMBRES, OR WITH CUCUMBERS. Have three fine cucumbers, not seedy, cut them about the size of a shilling, carefully tak- ing out the seeds and rind quite off, fry them a light brown in some good clarified butter, drain them on a hair sieve, and put them in a stewpan with a small ladle of good consommé and as much plain sauce (see Sauces), a little sugar and salt; when reduced to the thickness of sauce in general, add a little glaze if not strong enough ; squeeze ina small quantity of lemon juice, which mix MADE DISHES OF LAMBS. 119 mix carefully all together, pour it in the dish, and lay the lamb on it, garnishing it with the cutlets as before directed. If you think proper, the cucumbers may be dressed to go under the lamb in white sauce, thus: after they have been fried of a very light brown, stew them gently in some good pale consommé, with a very little sugar and salt, then put them ona sieve to drain what liquor should happen to remain ; and shake them up in some good béchamelle sauce, with a leason of one yolk of an egg anda spoonful of cream; serve them up the same as the brown sauce. BREAST OF LAMB ROLLED IN A RAGOOT. Get a breast of lamb that is cut rather broad, take out the whole of the bones, spread it well with veal forcemeat and roll it up, tying it well | about with packthread, and put it to stew gently in some good braize mutton cutlets had been stewed in, if you have any, if not any other braize may do; when well stewed take it out, put it in a gentle oven, and glaze it two or three times; then have a good rago(it ready, which pour in the dish and lay the lamb on the top. BREAST OF LAMB TO BE EAT €OLD? Prepare a breast of lamb by boneing it, as before directed, then have a good forcemeat made of fat livers, truffles, &c. the same as for a game pye (see Savoury Pies), and an omelette made of the white of eggs and of the yolks, co- loured with spinage juice; when cold cut them in long slips; first lay some forcemeat, then the slips of omelettes, with a few truffles laid be- tween, and likewise some fat livers, then spread H 6 all . q i f 1 4 i - He oh ‘ hi % i iy See eae ae a ai ae Ee ee 2 i Sakae ao 120 MADE DISHES OF LAMB. all over with the forcemeat, then roll it up and tie it in an old tammy or napkin, and put it to stew very gently for three or four hours; when done let it stand in the liquor till cold, then take it out, and let it stand for two days before you cut it; trim it well, lay it on the dish, and gar- nish it with aspic jelly minced and scattered roundit. For the jelly (see Jellies). BREAST OF LAMB GRILLSE WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. Bone a breast of lamb, pepper, salt, and egg it, do it well in crumbs of bread, sprinkle it well with butter and bread again, lay it on the gridiron over a gentle charcoal fire made with the wood ashes; when of a fine light brown co- jour on both sides dish it up, with some good ftalienne sauce under it. LOIN OF LAMB A LA KEBOBEB. Cut a loin of lamb in four or five pieces, toss them up with an egg in a dish, with plenty of pepper and salt, and bread crumb them, and then lay them on paper; have some clarified butter ready, dip them in, and bread crumb them again, laying them on paper as before ; half an hour before dinner grill them on the gridiron a fine brown colour, and when done dish them up. For the sauce, a strong gravy with a little tarragon vinegar; garnish the lamb with pic- kles, as gerkins, mushrooms, cauliflowers, &c. LAME CUTLETS EN EPIGRAMME. Chuse a neck or loin of lamb, make it into cutlets, trimming them neatly, and laying them in a cutlet pan with some clarified butter ; do them moderately quick on a stove, and when nearly done — ee Sod = en aE MADE DISHES OF LAMB. 12] done add some good strong gravy, stirring them well about to glaze them; when done place them neatly round the dish, and pour a good mince of chicken in the centre: or the chicken may only be shreded fine with some béchamelle sauce. LAMB CUTLETS WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. Cut up aneck of lamb into cutlets, trimming them neatly, and laying them in a cutlet pan with some clarified butter, and a little salt sprin- kled over them; set them on a quick fire at first, then on a slow fire, with a small ladleful of con- sommé, shaking them well at times to make them take the glaze; when well glazed dish them neatly round the dish, and pour some stew- ed asparagus peas in the middle. LAMB CUTLETS GRILLEES WITH MUSHROOMS. Take these from a neck of lamb, as directed for mutton cutlets 4 VItalienne (see Dishes of MUTTON); place them round the dish, and pour a good mushroom sauce in the centre. LAMB CUTLETS AUX CONCOMBRES, OR WITH CUCUMBERS. These cutlets must be taken from the neck, preparing them as directed for asparagus peas, with a good cucumber sauce in the centre, as for a leg of lamb. LAMB CUTLETS A L’ALLEMANDE. Make a paste of three eggs, a very small bit of butter, and about two ounces of flour, with a little salt; mix them together, and roll out the | paste on a marble slab as thin as possible; turn _ 1¢ over three or four times, and with a eae knife Se = ~ 199 MADE DISHES OF LAMB. knife shred it very fine, then blanch it for five or six minutes, drain it on asieve, and put it to stew with a bit of butter; when it appears to fry add aspoonful of good consommé, and when that is reduced three or four spoonfuls of good béchamelle sauce, with a very little grated nut- meg; pour this in the centre of the cutlets, pre- pared as directed in the former receipts. LAMB CUTLETS A LA PURSE’ DE LAITUES, OR WITH LETTUCE PUREE, Make a purée of lettuce as directed for the leg of lamb; dress your cutlets neatly round the dish, and pour the purée in the centre. LAME CUTLETS A LA PURSE DE LENTILLES, OR WITH LENTILE PUREE. Pick and wash about a quarter of a pint of - lentiles, put them in a stewpan with water enough to cover them, a small bit of beef suet, a carrot, an onion, peppercorns, salt, a few stalks of pars- ley, and a small bit of garlic; let these all stew very gently till well done and pasty, then add a small ladle of consommé, which must reduce till not very thick, then a good table-spoonful of plain sauce (see Sauces) ; when they have boiled together well pass or rub all through the tammy, adding a little good consommé if too thick ; then set it on the fire again and let it boil a few mi- nutes, stir in a small bit of fresh butter (having your cutlets neatly glazed and dished up) ; pour the lentile purée in the middie, serving it hot to table. LAMB CUTLETS WITH CELERY. Take eight or nine fine heads of celery, trim off the bad, and cut the good about the size of a shilling MADE DISHES OF LAMB. 198 shilling into a bason of water, blanch them fora few minutes, and drain them on a sieve; havea small stewpan ready, with about half a ladleful of good consommé and the same of sauce, a lit- tle sugar and salt, into which put your celery, and let it reduce gently to the thickness of sauce in general ; then mix in a small bit of butter, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice ; having your cutlets ready on the dish, pour your sauce in the centre; or you may serve the celery with cream sauce, by stewing it gently (after being blanched) in some good pale consommé, with a little sugar — and salt ; drain it on a sieve when done, and toss it in some cream sauce, which serve with the cutlets. LAMB’s PLUCK IN A PLAIN WAY. _ The head being skinned, saw it in two, wash it well and put it to boil; wash also the heart, liver, and lights, and boil them; when the head is done take it off and egg it, shake some crumbs of bread over #t, sprinkle it with clarified butter, shake some crumbs of bread again over it, and colour it well with the salamander ; then mince the heart, &c. and put it in a stewpan with some good plain sauce (see Sauces), and a little pepper and salt; before you put it on the dish put ina little mushroom ketchup and lemon-juice, serv- ing the head on the top. MADE DISHES OF PORK. Leg of Pork with Peas Pudding. with a Purée of green Peas. Pork Cutlets 4 la Sauce Robert, or with Carriére Sauce. with Onions. a la Bretonne. Young Pig roasted- on—--—— 4 la Pierre Douillette. Pigs’ 124 MADE DISHES OF PORK. Pigs’ Pettitoes 4 la Sainte Ménéhould. Pork Sausages. Mock Brawn. AO LEG OF PORK WITH PEAS PUDDING. | Boil a fine leg of pork (that has been salted) till well done; the while stew about a pint or more of split peas (according to the size you wish your pudding), witha few peppercorns, salt, and a bit of butter; when stewed rub them up in the stewpan with a wooden spoon, put in two whole eggs and the yolk of one, stirring them well in one at a time; then a small bit more of butter, a little salt, and a very little nutmeg grated, rub all through a hair sieve, tie it up in a cloth, so that it may be long, and boil it one . hour anda half; when done, having laid the leg of pork on a dish, and turned the pudding out of the cloth, cut it in several slices, garnish it in a miroton round the pork, and serve it hot to table. You may make it a round pudding, and serve it on a separate dish. LEG OF PORK WITH A PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. Make a purée of green peas, the same as di- rected for the soup but much thicker, taking care that it is very green; pour it in the dish, and lay a boiled leg of pork over it. PORK CUTLETS A LA SAUCE ROBERT. Having cut the cutlets from a neck of pork, pre- pare a sauce with one or two good onions cut in slices in a stewpan, a good bit of lean ham, pep- percorns, salt, a small bit of garlick, a bay leaf, with about two ounces of better, stir them ona gentle fire till of a fine brown colour ; add a small ladle of consommé, and when it has boiled a few minutes, two or three spoonfuls of plain sauce iene rrsonschineremvene MADE DISHES OF PORK. 195 sauce (see. Sauces), which must boil till tolerable thick, but not so thick as sauce in general; take it from the fire, and put in a table-spoonful of mustard, and the same (or more) of vinegar, with a little oil; rub all through the tammy, and mix it well up; put it in the sauceboat to be eaten cold. Broil the cutlets over a moderate fire; when done, rub them with butter, and dish them up with good gravy: if the sauce Robert should be wanted hot, warm it gently, and take care that it does not boil. PORK CUTLETS GRILLEES WITH ONIONS. Cut and broil the cutlets as directed in the last receipt; and cut four or five fine onions in slices, which put in a stewpan, with a few peppercorns, salt, and some clarified butter; stir these on the fire till well done, and of a fine brown colour ; then add two spoonfuls of consommé, and the same of plain sauce; when it boils rub it through a tammy; have ready fried, one or two good onions cut in shreds till well browned, which put into the sauce passed through the tammy ; stir it gently on the fire till it begins to boil, then squeeze in the juice of near half a lemon. The cutlets being broiled and dished up, pour the sauce in the centre, and serve it up. a™ f PORK CUTLETS A LA BRETONNE. Pick and well blanch some harricot beans till very tender, drain them on a hair sieve, and shake them up in the same kind of sauce as directed for a saddle of mutton (see Mutton); then, having taken the cutlets from the neck neatly trimmed, put them into a cutlet pan, over a moderate fire, with some clarified butter, and a little salt shook over nn ae . a —e _ 126 MADE DISHES OF PORK. over them, till well done, anda fine brown colour ; place them round the dish, and pour the sauce with beans in the centre. YOUNG PIG ROASTED. A pig to roast is best from three to four weeks old. Prepare a stuffing with slices of bread and butter, sprinkled well with chopped sage, and seasoned with pepper and salt, laying five or six slices one upon another and put them into the inside of the pig; skewer it well, that it may not fall out, and then spit it, rubbing it over with sweet oil; put it down before a moderate fire to roast for two hours, more or less, according to its size; when thoroughly done, take off the head and split the pig straight down the back, (there must be a dish under ready to receive it); then dish up the two halves, and splitting the head, lay half at each end of the dish, pour some good strong gravy under it, and serve it hot. Or you may take out the stuffing and mix it with some melted butter, and serve it as sauce; or sausage meat may be put inside of the pig instead of the bread and sage. YOUNG PIG A LA PIERRE DOUILLETTE. Take a pig, cut off the head, and cut the pig into four quarters, putting them to stew between bards of fat bacon, with the head split and laid in the middle, covering the whole with good braize, and nearly half a bottle ofsherry, with a bay leaf, carrots, onions, parsley, a small bit of garlick and salt; let the whole stew very gently between two fires for half an hour, then take it up and lay it ina stewpan with a little of the braize it was stewed in, and set it by the fire; pass MADE DISHES OF PORK. 1297 pass the remainder through ‘a sieve into another stewpan, which put on the fire;'and when it boils stir in -four or five good spoonfuls of plain sauces (see Sauces); when that boils, put in a few truffies, mushrooms, morelis, fat livers, and let it boil till nearly as thick as sauce in general. Having taken the stewed pig up, and laid it on the dish, cut a sweetbread (which has been stew- ed) into slices, laying it round the pig, put a lea- son of two yolks of eggs and a little cream into the sauce with the other things; squeeze in half a lemon juice, and pour the whole over the pig ; be careful that it is very hot, but be sure that it does not boil after the eggsare in. + PIGS’ PETTITOES A LA SAINTE-MENSHOULD. Have the pettitoes well cleaned and wash- ed, take a stewpan ofa proper size, and lay at the bottom an onion, and a carrot cut in slices, a few peppercorns, parsley, one clove of garlick, and a bay leaf; over these lay bards of fat bacon, then place the pettitoes regularly over, then an- other layer of bacon, then pettitoes again, and bacon over them; add some good beef stock, with a round paper laid close on the top, cover it, put them to stew between two fires, very gently, till well done ; then take them off, and when cool, toss them in eges with pepper and salt; take them out and bread crumb them, laying them on paper ; then dip them in clarified butter, and crumb them a second time; lay them on the gridircn and grill them a fine light brown; dish them up, and put under them a good remolade sauce (see Sauees). i PORK 128 MADE DISHES OF PORK: | PORK SAUSAGES. nant Take eight pounds of lean pork that is free from gristle and skin, shred and chop it very fine, then chop four pounds of beef suet and as muck pork fat, shred very fine, and a good handful of sage; spread out the chopped meat on a large dish and shake sage over it; grate in a couple of nutmegs, a spoonful of salt, and about three tea- spoonfuls of sweet herbs chopped very fine; shake over it the suet and port fat, mix all well up together ; pot it close down with paper over it. It will be better to standa day or two, When you wish tomake them up, roll them about the size of a sausage, shake them in a littleegg, then roll them in flour; have some butter on the fire, and when very hot put them in, shaking them about nearly the whole of the time, till of a fine colours then serve them hot to table. If you like you may put them in skins, taking care that they are very clean, filling them gently with a funnel, or they stand a chance of breaking: these are best for garnishing a turkey. : x : MOCK BRAWN. Take four cow heels, well cleaned from the hair and washed ; boil them in plenty of water till very tender, then take them out and shred them in long pieces, which put ina stewpan, just cover them with some good stock, and let them stew down a little; have ready chopped a hand- ful of capers and half as many girkins, which stir in with the heels, and one glass of vinegar ; put.it allinto.a mould of any shape you please, (I should recommend a plain round or oval mould,) ng eee er yh ey _“sMADE DISHES OF PORK. 199. mould,) and when cold take it out. It makes a zood dish for supper eaten with brawn sauce. Calves’ feet may be dressed. in the same manner. MADE DISHES OF CHICKENS. Chickens “& la Macédoine. a la Nelle. ———— a |’ Allemande. — Farce & l’ bstragon, or with tarragon. ———-— 4 |’Ecarlate. ———— grillées with Mushrooms, ala Turque. a ———— 4l’Hollandaise. ———— 4 Ja Prevengale. ———— aux Huitres, or with Oysters. —-———— en Haricot-vierge. ———-—. aux Haricots Verts, or with French meme ———— au Céleri, or with Celery. ———— au Choux Fleurs, or with Cauliflowerse Poularde au ‘Truffes. ———-——— aux Quenelles de Veau. ————— 4 la Financiere. Fricassée of Chicken with Mushrooms. ————.— ———- 4 l’Ttalienne. ee ee en Haricot Vierge. —-— aux petits Pois. ‘Fillets of Chicken sauté ala d’Artoise. ——_-——_ ala Béchamelle. Rene? ee —— —_—___-_—-__._ 3 a Maitre de Hotels ——— —————— with Endive. —— = —_—. —— —— 4 |’ Italienne. —— 8 la Ravigote. ee 21a Reine, Blanquette of Chicken with Cucumbers.. —— _- ——_ — —-—~ jin a Casserole of Rice. et nee With Macaroni. Potage 4 la Camerani, from the Almanach des Goundands Cutlets of Chicken grilled. Mince Chicken with the legs broiled, in a Timbale. Gratin of Chicken. Croquettes of Chicken. mien 41a Royale, 1g Fillets 130 MADE DISHES OF CHICKEN. Fillets of Chicken in Savory Jelly. ——_ ——-——— in an Italian Salad. Chicken or Fowl forced in Savory Jelly. , CHICKENS A LA MACEDOINE. ‘Take two or three fine young chickens, and truss them for boiling, with bards of fat bacon tied over the breast. Cut two cucumbers the size of a shilling, fry them a fine light brown, and stew them in good consommé; cut a few french- beans square and boil them, taking caré to keep them green; some mushrooms that have been stewed, five or six heads of celery cut like the cucumbers, blanched and stewed in good ¢on- sommé, and a head or two of eauliflowers boiled. When the chickens have boiled very gently about half an hour, in some mutton broth or braize, take them out, drain them from the liquor, lay them on the dish, and place the vegetables round ac- cording to your taste; pour some good butter sauce (see Sauces), with about half the juice of a lemon, over the chickens and vegetables, obsery- ing that the whole is very hot: let the dish be large that the sauce may not soil the cloth. CHICKENS A LA NELLE. Make some veal forcemeat as directed (see Forcemeat), roll it up about three inches in cir- cumference, and the same in length, and boil it till done in some beef stock ; with a colander spoon put them to drain on a sieve. Having two good size chickens well boiled as before directed, dish them up, garnish the forcemeat round and betiveen them, and pour over them some good béchamelle sauce. A fowl may be done in the same manner. CHICKENS MADE DISHES OF CHICKEN. 131 ; CHICKENS A L’ALLEMANDE. - ‘ Prepare a paste as for the border of a dish, the yolks of three eggs, a handful of flour, a little salt anda very small bit of butter ; mix them into a stiff paste, beat it with the rolling pin, and give itone turn; roll it out as thin as possible, double it up two or three times, and with a very sharp knife cut itin fine threads like vermicelli; blanch it in some water with a little salt for five minutes, then drain it on a sieve, put it in a stewpan with a bit of butter and a little salt, shake it well by the side of the stove; when the butter begins to fry put in a little consommé, and let it stew gent- ly till nearly dry; stir it gently about with a wooden spoon, grate ina little nutmeg, and a very little white pepper; when well mixed, spread it on the dish, and lay the boiled chickens on it, with some good béchamelle sauce poured over the whole. ) CHICKENS FARCE A L’ESTRAGON. The same veal farce must be made. as for a la nelle, except having three or four small pullets, instead of two, where the crop was put in the farce, securing it well by turning the skin over; stew them in some good braize till done, take them out, drain them for a few mi- nutes, and lay themon the dish; tarragon sauce (see Sauces) must be put over them. CHICKENS A L’£CARLATE. Roast a couple of chickens; a few minutes be« fore dinner, cut them up while hot, trim them, take off the skin, lay them on the dish, with pieces of tongue cut like a heart, placed between the pieces according to your a The sauce hates I 2 q | i i | Spe a seeaes ss cea ae 132 MADE DISHES OF CHICKEN: be some strong consommé and plain sauce boiled thick to a fine colour, into which stir a bit of but- ter, and the juice of nearly half a lemon ; pour it, over the chicken very hot, and serve it to table. x CHICKENS GRILLES WITH MUSHROOMS. ‘* Have two fine chickens, take out the side, split them in two, take out the back bone, beat them with a wooden spoon, dip them in clarified butter, and set them on the gridiron over a char- coal fire to broil for half an hour ; mind to lay the inside downwards over the fire, and let it remain so till nearly done ; turn the other side in order to give it a fine light brown colour ; put some stew- ed mushrooms into a stewpan, with an equal quantity of beef stock and plain sauce; boil it gently to the thickness of sauce in general; add a very little cayenne pepper aid a little lemon juice, mix them well, (and having laid the chickens on the dish), pour the sauce over them. CHICKENS A LA TURQUE. Take about a quarter of a pound of rice, pick and blanch it, drain it upon a sieve, and put it in a stewpan with a bit of lean ham, a little salt, and consommé enough (with little of the fat) to cover it, and set it over a gentle fire to stew; when tender, lay it on the dish, set the chickens over it, smoothing the rice neatly about them. The sauce, some good béchamelle poured over them. A capon or large fowl may be dressed in the same manner. ‘ CHICKENS 4 LA HOLLANDAISE. Pick some parsley very fine, each leaf separate- ly, blanch it, and drain it ona sieve; have ready some good butter sauce, into which put the en ey; MADE DISHES OF CHICKENS. 133 ley; having the chickens we!l boiled, dish them ups squeeze a little lemon juice into the sauce and pour it hot over the chickens, but be sure it does not boil. CHICKENS A LA PROVENCALE. Take a couple of fine large chickens, bone them carefully without breaking the skin; chop some parsley and lemon thyme very fine, put it into an oval stewpan, large enough to hold the chickens, with some chopped mushrooms, a bay leaf, and a bit of butter; stir them well on the fire till the butter begins to fry; then take the chickens, and put a good spoonful of the herbs and butter into the inside, with somé pepper and salt; set them neatly in the stewpan in the herbs, with the breast uppermost, put them over a mo derate fire to stew, shaking and turning them every tbree or four minutes; when the breast has taken a fine colour add a ladle of consommé, in which let them stew for a few minutes; take them outon a dish, add four or five spoonfuls of plain Sauce (see Sauces) to the herbs and consommé and stir it till it boils to nearly the thickness of sauce in general; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, dish up the chickens, and pour thé sauce over them. CHICKENS AUX HUITRES, OR WITH OYSTERS. Put five dozen oysters in a stewpan with their liquor, set them onthe fire till they boil, take theni off, and when nearly cold, beard them; put them into another stewpan with the liquor drained ‘through a sieve, set them on the fire again till they boil, then take them off and put them on a sieve todrain; put a little clarified butter into a 14 stewpan, 134 MADE DISHES OF CHICKEN: stewpan, into which put the oysters; set them on a gentle fire for three or four minutes, add half béchamelle sauce and half butter sauce (for whieh see Sauces) enough to garnish the chickens; the chickens being boiled and set on the dish as be- fore directed, add the juice of half a lemon to the oyster sauce, making it very hot, pour it over the chickens; and serve them to table. set K it - Slices of fat bacon over the breast, boil i 14 MADE DISHES OF TURKEY. it on a dish and pour some good truffle sauce round it, for which (see Sauces). TURKEY A L’ESPAGNOLE. Chuse half a hundred fine Spanish chestnu roast and skin them, put them to simmer gently in a ladleful of good consommé, as much plain sauce, and a very little sugar and salt; when reduced to the thickness of sauce in general, gently mix in a little portable soup (if you think it not strong enough), a few mushrooms and truffles with the juice of half a lemon ; the tur- key being roasted and set on the dish as directed in the last receipt, pour the sauce round it, and serve it to table. ts, TURKEY WITH SAUSAGES. Having roasted a turkey and fried some sau- sages, (for which see page 61), garnish them round the turkey, and serve it to table with good strong gravy. Bread sauce in a boat. TURKEY A LA ROYALE. Frepare a mince of tongue, ham, mushr and truffles, put them intoa S sauce (see Sauces); the turkey being roasted dish it up, squeeze a little lemon juice in the mince, pour it round it, and send it to table. . TURKEY WITH OYSTERS. Take a good white turkey, truss it for boiling, -With the feet turned up like a fowl, tie a few t gently in braize or stock pot, take it up a few minutes before it is wanted, to drain the liquor from it ; take out the ‘skewers and. packthread which trussed it, set itona large dish, and pour plenty O ooms panish or brown MADE DISHES OF TURKEY. 147 of good oyster sauce over it, for which (see Sauces), Some stuffing must be put in the crop, as directed for turkeys when roasted. TURKEY EN HARICOT VIERGE. Cut into small squares four or five turnips, blanch them on the fire, put them to stew in some good consommé with a little sugar, salt, a small bit of butter, and a round paper over them; let them stew very gently till nearly dry, then lay them carefully on a sieve; half a dozen heads of celery must be cut, and stewed in the same manner as the turnips in aseparate stew- pan. The turkey being well boiled and laid on the dish, garnish it round with the turnips and celery, and‘over the whole pour some béchamelle sauce (see Sauces). TURKEY EN RAGOOT. Have a ragofit in béchamelle sauce, of mush- rooms, truffles, cocks-comb, fat livers, and arti- chokes bottoms, lay them over and about the turkey when boiled and laid on the dish. TURKEY TO BE SERVED COLD. This must be dressed like a fowl forced in savory jelly (see Jellies), and served for sup- per or a cold entertainment ; or it may be done without setting it in jelly, by laying it on the dish, cutting the jelly into pieces and garnishing it round. MADE DISHES OF DUCKS. Ducks stewed with Red Cabbage. — farce a l’Espagnole. ——- with a Purée of Carrots. -—— ala Breton. K 2 Dueks TLE AT EP TERNAL BESET OOS 148 MADE DISHES OF DUCKS. Ducks aux Légumss, or with V egetables. - a4 la Braize ——-— 4 ]’Orange. ——-~— en Salis. ~——- en Salmis 4 P Estragon. —-— aux Truffes. ——- grillée et Champignons. ———— ina Tureen with young Peas. DUCKS STEWED WITH RED CABBAGE, Having singed and trussed your ducks, with q pepper and salt in the inside, put them to stew very gently for one hour and a half or two hours, in some good braize that beef or cutlets have been stewed in: the while shred the cab- bage very ‘fine, wash it, and drain it on a sieve for a few minutes, put it to stew with a good bit of butter, and a little pepper and salt, na stewpan closely covered, shaking it every three or four minutes, If it should get dry and burn at the bottom, add nearly a ladle of good con- sommé; when well done and tender, mix in a small glass of vinegar, lay it cn the dish, and the ducks over it: cover it and serve it to table. DUCKS FARCE A L’ESPAGNOLE. Take three small ducks, bone them without breaking the skin, put in a farce of veal (see Forcemeat), place them neatly at the bottom of a stewpan, with bards of bacon laid under und overthem; carrots, onions, parsley, a small bit of garlic, bayleaf, and pepper and salt, with good consommeé or beef stock, just enough to cover them; let them stew for one hour anda half; take them out witha small slice, let them drain for a few minutes, dish them up and pour some good sauce 4 l’espagnole (see Sauces), with a MMaMiesie ato dknt Kevahet eetiisk caw, bY RUN ETT a aR lS BIS A aT TITS Ey ati , , . Te ~~ MADE DISHES OF DUCKS. 149 a few mushroonis over them, and the juice of half a lemon. DUCKS WITH A PURKE OF CARROTS. Scrape and cut in quarters eight or nine large carrots, boil them very tender, put them in a sieve, and when drained, stir them well on the fire with a good bit of butter; when well mashed and the butter begins to fry, put in half a ladle of consommé, when dry add as much more, then two or three spoonfuls of good plain sauce (see Sauces), adda little salt and a small bit of sugar, rub the whole through a tammy into a large dish ; fae it again in a stewpan; and before it is wanted, stir it well on the fire with » wooden spoon ; if not strong enough, add a bit of glaize ; pour it in the dish, and lay the ducks (stewed as for red cabbage) in the centre. DUCKs A LA BRETON. Slice three or four fine onions in a stewpan with a small bit of carrot, parsley, peppercorns, salt, a piece of lean ham, and a bit of butter: stir them on the fire till of a fine brown colour; add a small ladle of consommé which must gently boil till above half reduced; then put in three spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces), and when it has boiled for five minutes, stir in two spoon- fuls of vinegar, rub the whole through the tam- my, and put it ina stewpan: having some hari- cot-beans well boiled, shake them gently in, and make the whole very hot, lay it on a warm dish and the stewed ducks on it. DUCKS AUX LEGUMES, OR WITH VEGETABLES. Take carrots, turnips, and celery, cut and turn them the same as for piece of beef aux Jé- Kk 3 gumes } i q if He Ha i | 1 y 150 MADE DISHES OF DUCKs. gumes (see Beef), and stew them in the same manner ; when the ducks have stewed gently in some good braize, take out the skewers, lay them on the dish, garnish them round with the vegetables with the addition of three or four savoy cabbages stewed, and intermixed with the vegetables ; pour over the whole a good brown sauce, with the juice of half a lemon squeezed in; and send it very hot to table. DUCKs A LA BRAIZE. Take two ducks, lard them well through the breast with slips of ham, lay them in a stewpan with a piece of beef at the bottom, slices of ba- con, and upon them the ducks; cover them over with bacon and bits of beef or veal, a carrot, onion, parsley, peppercorns, salt, clove of gar- lic, a little allspice and a bayleaf; pour some good beef stock or braize on them, and set them to stew very gently between two fires, for near- ly three hours ; take them out, and lay them on the dish ; for the sauce some good strong espagnole or brown sauce (see Sauces), with a couple of. glasses of Madeira, and parsley and thyme well chopped, and put itin when the whole is boiled to a good thickness ; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, mix it well and pour it over the ducks just as they are going to table. DUCKS A L’ORANGE. Let a couple of ducks be half roasted, take them from the spit, cut them neatly up, and lay them in a stewpan to which put a little con- sommé and a glass of port wine; when they have boiled gently for ten minutes, add three spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces). When the whole MADE DISHES OF DUCKS. 15] whole has boiled again and you find the duck done, take them out, dish and garnish them with fried bread; let the sauce reduce to its usual thickness, squeeze in the juice of an orange, mix it well, and pour it very hot over the duck. Wild ducks may be done in the same way. DUCKS EN SALMIS. Let the ducks be half roasted as directed in the former receipt, cut them up, laying the legs, wings, and breast, in one stewpan, and the back bone inanother ; let thelegs and wings stew gently in a little good consommé till nearly dry, put one small onion, a bit of lean ham, a few stalks of parsley, anda ladle of consommé in the stew- pan with the back bone when it boils, add three spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sazces), and let it boil gently, stirring it now and then, till of the usual thickness; squeeze the whole through a tammy into the stewpan with the duck; make it very hot, place the duck in the dish garnished with fried bread; stir in the sauce a leason of one yolk of an egg, and a spoonful of cream, pour it over the duck and serve it to table. DUCKS EN SALMIS A L’ESTRAGON. Prepare these in a salmis as directed in the last receipt, but before you serve it to table, shake in some tarragon and chervil chopped fine and blanched, and a table spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; a leason the same as before.» DUCKS AUX TRUFFES, OR WITH TRUFFLES. Take two fine ducks, singe and truss them neatly, and having some truffles ‘stewed with chopped parsley, thyme, and mushrooms, put a few inside of the ducks; spit them with bards of K 4 bacon 152 MADE DISHES OF DUCKS. bacon over them, and roast them likea fowl with truffles (see page 135), and with the same sauce ; wild ducks may be done the same. DUCKS GRILLEE ET CHAMPIGNONSO R WITH MUSHROOMS. The inside being taken out of two ducks, turn the legs under the skin, and with a large knife divide them in two, by cutting them down the middle: beat them with a wooden spoon, dip them in some good clarified butter, and lay them on the gridiron over a gentle charcoal fire. The inside must lay towards the fire till nearly done, then turn them on the other side, let them be of a fine brown colour; sprinkle pepper and salt over them now and then while broiling; when done lay them on the dish, and pour mushroom sauce over them as for broiled chicken (see Sauces). DUCKS WITH YOUNG PEAS. Having a couple of ducks well roasted, neatly cut them up all but the back bone, and put ina stewpan with young peas that have been well stewed in plenty of cream sauce (see Vegetables) ; shake in a leason of two yolks of eggs witha little cream, and serve them in a tureen or a dish, with a good border of paste (see Pastry). MADE DISHES OF PIGEONS. Pigeons farce 4)’Estragon, or with Tarragon. ala Dauphine. ala Lune. -———-— aux Truffes, or with Truffles. ——_—— en Compote. ————— au Court-bouillon. e————— en Marinade. Pigeons IRS RUT ha laa 5 RR RR ON BN SANA li a aD TELE = TU SOI ic ant MADE DISHES OF PIGEONS. 153 Pigeons en Ragout. ——— grillées with Mushroom Sauce. ———-— 4] Allemande. ——-~ farce al’ Hollandaise. ——-— aux Quenelles a l’Espagnole. PIGEONS FARCE A L’ESTRAGON, OR WITH TARRAGON SAUCE. Take five or six fine young pigeons, prepare them like a fowl for stewing with the legs turned in, put into the crop a good farce of veal (see Veal Forcemeat), draw the skin close over it, and tie bards of fat bacon on the breast; set them to .stew gently im good braize, in which beef or veal has been stewed till very tender; witha small slice carefully take them out, untruss them and lay them on the dish; for the sauce, some good tarragon poured over the whole very hot. PIGEONS A LA DAUPHINE. Stew five or six pigeons, according to the size of the dish, as directed in the last receipt; have a rago(it of fat livers, cocks’-combs, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms stewed, shake it gently in some good butter sauce (see Sauces) ; when very hot, but not boiling, squeeze in the juice of half an orange, and a very little lemon juice, with aleason of the yolk of one egg and a table spoonful of cream; when the pigeons are laid on the dish, pour the whole over them, and send them to table. : PIGEONS A LA LUNE. The pigeons being well stewed and laid on a dish, garnish them with an omelette (see Hige's), eut in rounds with a cutter; bread cut in the shape of a half moon and fry of a fine brown colour; the pigeons bemg thus garnished, pour Kk Oo over ib4 MADE. DISHES OF PIGEONS. over the whole a good [talienne sauce (see Sauces). PIGEONS AUX TRUFFES, OR WITH TRUFFLES. Having some pigeons trussed as for stewing, put.a few truffies which have been stewed, with chopped mushrooms, parsiey and thyme, into their inside: spit them carefully with butter paper tied round them, roast them till well dene and of a fine light brown colour, then take them from the spit and carefully lay them on the dish; gar- nish them with truffles in sauce, and serve them to table. Partridges or pheasants may be dress- ed in the same, way. | PIGEONS IN A COMPOTE. Bone five or six pigeons without breaking the skin, fill them with a good farce of veal (see Veal Forcemeat), place them neatly at the bottom ofa stewpan, then add one glass of Madeira, a few truffles, mushrooms, cloves, a small bit of garlic, peppercorns and salt, and nearly cover them with good consommé; let them stew (turn- ing them at times) till nearly dry, place them on a dish; then have a good béchamelle sauce rea- dy, into which put a few truffles and mushrooms ; when the sauce is very hot, stir ina leason of the yolk of an egg and a spoonful of cream; place the pigeons properly on the dish, and gar- nish them round with six very small rolls fried, with the inside crumb taken out, and the sauce over the whole; or you may serve them with sauce @ l’espagnole. PIGEONS AU COURT-BOUILLON. Let some pigeons be trussed and prepared with a good farce in the crop, as directed in the first petition a at “MADE DISHES OF PIGEONS. 155 first receipt for pigeons: cut a carrot in slices, onions, parsley, one clove of garlic, peppercorns, salt, and a bay leaf; lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, large enough to hold the pigeons, over which put thin bards of fat bacon, then the pigeons, and bacon over them; cover the pi- geons with good braize and nearly half a bottle of sherry: let the whole stew gently between two fires till very tender; take them off and let them stand in the braize till half cold, then with a slice carefully take them out, lay them on the dish, and while very hot pour over them a good butter sauce (see Sauces) rather stronger than usual, with nearly the juice of a lemon - Squeezed into it. PIGEONS IN A MARINADE. Take six, young pigeons, split them in two, take out the back bone; the other two halves of each pigeon lay in a marinade, of the juice of one lemon, about four table spoonfuls of vine- gar, salt, peppercorns, one clove of garlic, car- rot, onion, parsley, and a bay leaf; the pigeons must stand in this pickle for six hours at least ; then lay them ona plate, have some good lard quite hot, shake them in flour, fry them till well done and of a fine brown colour; lay them on paper and when wanted dish them up; the sauce must be butter sauce (see Sauces) made strong, and about one table spoonful of tarragon vinegar introduced ; mushrooms may go in the marinade and fry them after the pigeons. PIGEONS EN RAGOOT. Having trussed and prepared some pigeons, the number according to the dish, with a farce of | veal one nme = ae —= cs prereatis vans = 156 MADE DISHES OF PIGEONS. veal in the crops, put them to stew in good beef or veal braize till well done; then carefully place them on the dish you mean to send to table, and pour a good ragout of mushrooms, livers, cocks’- combs, artichoke bottoms, and bails of forcemeat round and over them. The ragoit must be mixed with béchamelle sauce (see Sauces). PIGEONS GRILLES WITH MUSHROOMS. If for a large dish. cut six pigeons as directed for a marinade (see page 155), have some clarified butter ready into which dip the pigeons, set them to broil over a gentle charcoal fire with the bone side downwards, which must remain till near done; then turn them on the other, that it may also take a fine brown colour; lay them on the dish, and pour over them a good mushroom gauce (see Sauces). -PIGEONS A L’ALLEMANDE. Make a paste with about two ounces of flour, avery small bit of butter, salt, and the yolks of three eggs, work it well up till very smooth and stiff, roll it out as thin as a wafer ; this done double it four or five times over and with a sharp knife shred it as fine as possible, so that it may appear like vermicelli; boil it quick for five minutes in plenty of water, with a little salt, when done drain it on a sieve, and put it to stew with a small bit of butter in a stewpan; when the butter begins to fry put intwo or three spoonfuls of consommé, and let it stew again till nearly dry ; grate ina little nutmeg, and put in two or three spoonfuls of béchamelle sauce; lay your paste on the dish and the pigeons over it (being stewed as ~ eet naa a Prt IES EO ANOS BORER IT TTT PtSi 2. aT a iL CO ait aeons MADE DISHES OF PHEASANTS. 157 as directed in the first receipt), and béchamelle sauce over the whole, sending it hot to table. PIGEONS FARCE A L’HOLLANDAISE. Put a farce of veal in the crops of four pigeons, and stew them in good braize; when done, lay them on the dish; then having some butter sauce ready, pick some parsley very fine by taking each small leaf separately, blanch it for a few minutes, then drain it on a sieve and mix it into your sauce; make it very hot, but not boil- ing, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and pour it over the pigeons. PIGEONS AUX QUENELLES A L’ESPAGNOLE. Prepare a veal forcemeat, and, having six pi- geons trussed for stewing, put some of it in the crops, and then stew your pigeons gently between twofiresin good braize; the remainder ofthe force- meat make into long round rolls, boil them for a few minutes in beef stock or mutton broth, and put them to stew gently in good consommé ; when stewed till nearly dry, and the pigeons likewise well done, place them on the dish, gar- nish the forcemeat round them, and pour sauce a Vespagnole (or brown sauce) over the whole, with the juice of half a lemon mixed in. MADE DISHES OF PHEASANTS. Pheasant with Trufiles. Pheasant en Filets. with Celery. ———— 4] Allemande. — farce a l’Espagnole. — a la Turque. a VItalienne, — en Gratin. These are a few only of the principal receipts for dressing this beautiful bird ; it may be done in almost every manner a fowl is, besides en pe- tits. se 158 MADE DISHES OF PHEASANTS. tits patés (see Pies), croquettes (see page 143), in an aspic jelly, or [talian salad. PHEASANT WITH TRUFFLES. Take one fine large pheasant (two if for a large dish), and prepare it as a fow! for boiling, with bards of bacon on the breast ; put four or five good truffles in the inside, and some chopped with parsley and thyme; roast it till well done, and of a fine brown colour, then dish it up and garnish it with a good brown sauce with truffles and mushreoms in, as in page 154. ~ PHEASANT WITH CELERY. Let a pheasant be prepared as a fowl for boil- ing, then stew it in any kind of good braize you may have till well done; having six fine heads of celery, cut in rounds about the size of a shil- ling, blanch them for a few minutes, drain them on a sieve, and put them to stew in good con- sommeé till nearly dry; have some good brown sauce ready, with a bit of butter mixed in it, put the celery to it, with a squeeze of lemon juice, stir it gently and pour the whole over the phea- sant, sending it hot to table. PHEASANT FARCE A L’ESPAGNOLE. Make a veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), part of which put into the crop of the pheasant (it be- ing prepared for stewing), and the remainder make in long rolls; blanch and stew them as di- rected for pigeons, with the same sauce (see page 157). PHEASANT A L7’ITALIENNE. Having a couple of small pheasants (or one large one), well stewed with a farce in the crops, place MADE DISHES OF PHEASANTS. 159 place them carefully on the dish, pour an Itali- enne sauce over the whole and send them to table. PHEASANT IN .FILLETs, Cut out the fillets of the breast, as of a fowl, lay them on the table, and with a large sharp knife cut them in three thin slices, which careful- ly lay in some good clarified butter. When the whole is done sprinkle a little salt over them ; do them over a quick fire for a minute only (turn- ing them on each side), but be careful that they are not brown; drain them from the butter, neatly dish them up in the form ofa star, and put over them some good butter sauce, very hot, with half of a lemon squeezed in it. FILLETS OF PHEASANTS A L’ALLEMANDE. Make a paste, and prepare it as for chickens a Vallemande (see page 131); when well done lay it in the middle of the dish, then place your pheasant (it being in fillets, and done as in the last receipt) neatly round it, pour some good béchamelle sauce made very het over it, and serve them to table. A whole pheasant may be done in the same manner as chickens 4 V’alle- mande. ? PHEASANTS A LA TURQUE. Take two fine young pheasants, prepare them as chickens for stewing, with bards gi fat bacon laid over the breasts, then put them to stew very gently in good braize till done; the while, hav- ing some rice well stewed in some good consom- mé, with a small quantity of the fat, a little salt, and a bit of lean ham; when well stewed, so that no liquid remains, lay it neatly in the ie ; an (SES a ep a pean ate aaa =e epee Soe ite Se sites We 2 nets 160 MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGBES. and the pheasants on the top, and, when wanted, pour over the whole a good béchamelle sauce. GRATIN OF PHEASANT. | Mince the breast of a pheasant that has been well roasted very fine, put it in some béchamelle sauce, and mix it well up, with a little lemon juice squeezed in; then pour it in the dish, shake a few bread crumbs over it, sprinkle it with cla- rified butter, and crumbs of bread again; just before it is wanted colour it with the salamander. MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGES. Partridges with Truffles. Fillets of Partridge grillée. —_—-——— with Red Cabbage. ————————. sauté al’Ita- ——-—— 4 la Lune, lienne. —__—_-—— 4 I’Italienne. _—— ————— en Attelets. —___-—— en Salmis, or Hash. Blanquette of Partridge with ——_—-— erillée with Mush- Truffles. rooms. ee — with —-— farce 4l’Estragon, or | young Peas. with Tarragon. Croquettes of Partridges. PARTRIDGES WITH TRUFFLES. Prepare three or four partridges, with truffles inside, the same as directed for a pheasant, but instead of roasting stew them in good braize ; then having a few truffles well prepared and mixed in good brown sauce, squeeze in a-lemon, and when very hot pour the whole over the par- tridges. PARTRIDGES WITH RED CABBAGE. Cut in fine shreds two red cabbages, which wash well, and put to stew with a good bit of butter and a little pepper and salt; if they begin to stick to the’ bottom of the stewpan, put a small ladle of consommé, which add every time they appear dry till done; then mix ip two table spoonfuls MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGES. 161 spoonfuls of vinegar and lay them neatly on the dish, with three partridges well stewed laid on the top. PARTRIDGES A LA LUNE. These are to be done the same as directed for pigeons (see page 153). PARTRIDGES A L>ITALIENNE. Let three partridges be well stewed, witha farce in their crops (or they may be boned, and plenty of good farce put in the inside), lay them on the dish, and with a spoon garnish them with an Italienne sauce. PARTRIDGES IN A SALMIS, OR HASH. Having a brace of partridges well roasted, cut off the wings, legs, and breast very neatly ; put them into a stewpan, and the back bone into another, witha bit of lean ham, one small onion, two or three stalks of parsley, a few pepper- corns, one clove of garlic, one glass of sherry, a ladle of good consommé, and as much plain sauce; the whole must boil over a gentle fire to the thickness of sauce in general; this done, squeeze it through a tammy to the legs and wings in the other stewpan; put it to the fire to be very hot, then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, a leason of the yolk of one egg, anda table-spoonful of cream; shake the whole well together, lay the partridges neatly, on the dish, and serve it to table. PARTRIDGES GRILLEES WITH MUSHROOMS. Take three or four partridges, according ‘to the size of the dish; prepare them, split them down the middle, broil them as directed for chickens (see page 132), and likewise a good mushroom 162 MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGES. mushroom sauce, with the addition of a little parsley and lemon thyme, and a few chopped truffles ; pour this over them very hot just before they are sent to table. PARTRIDGES FORCED WITH TARRAGON. Make a veal farce (see Forcemeats), put it in the crops of four partridges that are neatly truss- ed for stewing; stew them very gently, and well covered, till very tender, then after draining the liquor from them, lay them on the dish, and pour over them a good tarragon sauce (see Sauces) ; but instead of chopping tarragon and chervil, as directed in the sauces, take some good strong tar- ragon, cut it in a diamond shapé, blanch it and put it in the sauce. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES GRILLEES. Cut out the fillet and merry-thought bone of three fine partridges, a part of which remains in the thick end, take it out, cut the under thin skin very neatly off, and place the bone in the thin end, so that it may be like a cutlet; toss them up in an egg, beaten up with pepper and salt, then bread crumbs, and lay them on paper ; dip them in clarified butter, and bread crumb them again; broil them over a moderate char- coal fire till of a fine light brown colour, then place them neatly round the dish, and pour some good butter sauce in the middle, with a bit of glaze mixed in, one squeeze of lemon juice, and a little pepper and salt. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES SAUTE A L’ITALIENNE. The fillets of three partridges (or more if re- quired) must be taken as directed in the last re- ceipt, and with a sharp knife (after having laid your fillets flat on the table) take out the inner fillet MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGES. 163 fillet, which beat flat with a knife; lay it in cla- rified butter, which should be ready in a cutlet pan; the other fillets must be cut in two flat slices, and laid in butter like the inner fillets ; sprinkle a little salt over them, and shake them over a quick fire for one minute only, taking great care that they do not brown; drain off the butter, then dish them neatly in the form ofa star, and pour over them a good Italienne sauce, as directed in the sauces. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES EN ATTELETS, Take off the fillets, as before directed, and cut them the same ; have a marinade ready of half vinegar and water in a basin, with a bit of car- rot, onion, parsley, peppercorns, salt, one clove of garlic and a bay leat; then put the fillets into it, with a few chicken livers and a dozen small round mushrooms; these must lay in the mari- nade, or pickle, eight hours before dinner, then have plently of good lard very hot over 4 sharp fire ; fry the partridges first, the livers, and then the mushrooms, laying them ona sheet of paper as they are fried; place them neatly on the dish, and for the sauce reduce two table spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar to one, add about three spoon- fuls of butter sauce, a small bit of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; when very hot put it neatly in between the fillets, but not over them. A BLANQUETTE OF PARTRIDGE WITH TRUF- : FLES. Fillet three partridges, as before directed ; have some clarified butter in a cutlet pan, cut the partridges in small round collops, and lay them in the butter. When all is done, sprinkle if _ alittle | z i So Se it a aes — = a rc ee SS LRT ie? 164 MADE DISHES OF PARTRIDGES. a little salt over them, and stir them with a spoon over a quick fire for one minute; when done drain off the butter, and stir them gently in some good béchamelle sauce. The while have five or six good truffles cut into very neat thin rounds, put them in a small stewpan to stew gently over the fire with a bit of butter; when the butter begins to fry add_ two table-spoonfuls of eonsom- mé, and when that is nearly reduced take the truffles and mix them gently in the sauce with the partridge; make the whole very hot,, mix in a leason of the yolk of an egg and a spoonful of cream, then serve it to table. A BLANQUETTE OF PARTRIDGE WITH YOUNG PEAS. Let the partridges be cut and prepared as directed in the preceding receipt, in béchamelle sauce; have halfa pint of young peas blanched, put them to stew with a bit of butter, a little sugar and salt, a small green onion, tied up with two or three stalks of parsley; they must stew gently till very tender, shaking them now and then, and adding a spoonful of consommé to prevent them from burning. When stewed toss them gently in the sauce with the partridge, making the whole very hot, and shaking it up with a leason as in the last receipt; when all is well mixed put it into the dish. You may add mushrooms by arranging them — as truffles and celery, or asparagus peas, by treating them the same as young peas. CROQUETTES OF PARTRIDGES. Shred and chop very fine the meat ‘of the breasts of two partridges, carefully taking out all the skin and sinews; have ready two wooden spoonfuls MADE DISHES OF RABBITS. 165 spoonfuls of good béchamelle sauce, which must boil gently, stirring it all the time till it acquires a double thickness. Then proceed as for cro- quettes of chickens (see Chickens). MADE DISHES OF RABBITS. Rabbits boiled with white Onion Rabbits a l’Italienne. : Sauce. Fillets of Rabbits en Attelets. ——-— roasted with brown ———-—— —— 4 la Maré- “Onion Sauce. chale. —-—— in aFricassée. Blanquette of Rabbits. It will be useless to fill this work with repeti- tions of receipts, therefore I have given but a few ofthe principal methods of dressing rabbits ; they may be dressed. nearly in the manner as fowls ; they also make good pies, petits patés, croquettes, rissoles, &c. all of which are found in different parts of this book. RABBITS BOILED WITH ONION SAUCE. ‘Take a couple of rabbits, boil them gently till done, with a little salt in the water; the while ia and cut in two half a dozen onions, which oil very ‘tender, drain them on a sieve, and chop them; put them ina stewpan with a bit of butter ; when it begins to fry add half a ladle of consommé, when it has reduced put in three eects of plain sauce (see Sauces), and stir in fialfa pint of cream, put in a little pepper and salt, make it very hot; your rabbits being laid on the dish with the heads cut off, split in two, and laid round them, pour the whole of the sauce over them. If you wish the onion sauce to be par- ticularly fine, see White Onion Sauce, in the Sauces. RABBITS ROASTED WITH BROWN ONION SAUCE. Two rabbits being well roasted, with plenty of stuffing in the inside, peal and cut in slices a dozen onions, put them in a stewpan with a L 2 good 166 MADE DISHES OF RABBITS. good bit of butter, peppercorns, and salt; stir it well on the fire with a wooden spoon till the onions are of a fine brown colour, then put in a good ladleful of espagnole, which when reduced, put in three small spoonfuls of plain sauce (see Sauces), and when it boils rub the whole through the tammy; the rabbits being laid on the dish, with the heads placed round, make the sauce very hot, squeeze in half a lemon, and pour it round the rabbits. | RABBITS IN A FRICASSEE. Cut a couple of fine white rabbits in pieces, by cutting off the legs, shoulders, and back ; put them in boiling water to blanch, and skim them for one minute ; have a few trimmings of mushrooms, stir them in a stewpan on the fire, with a bit of butter, till it begins to fry, then stir in a spoon- ful of flour; mix into-the flour a little at a time nearly a quart of good consommé, which set on the fire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gently till. done, then put them into another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boiling cream, and when it becomes - the. thickness of béchamelle sauce in general, squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbitsy make it very hot, shake iv a few mushrooms, the yolk ofan egg, and a little cream, then serve it to table. FRICASSEE OF RABBITS A L’ITALIENNE. Proceed as directed in the last receipt, but before you serve it shake in some parsley, lemon thyme, and mushrooms chopped, and squeeze in the juice of nearly half a lemon. | FILLETS MADE DISHES OF RABBITS. - 167 FILLETS OF RABBITS EN ATTELETS. Take the fillets of three rabbits, lay them on the table, and with a sharp knife cut each of thent in two long slices, putting them in a mari- nade half vinegar and half water, carrots, onions, parsley, peppercorns, salt, clove of garlick, and a bay leaf, with five or six fat livers of chickens, and mushrooms ; when they have stood about eight hours.in this pickle, some good lard.being made very hot, fry them a fine brown colour, laying them as they are done on a sheet of pa- per; lay them neatly on the dish, gdrnishing them with the livers and mushrooms: and for the sauce reduce a very little tarragon vinegar, to which put three small spoonfuls of: butter sauce (see Sauces); when it is very hot stir in about a table-spoonful more of tarragon vinegar, and pour it carefully between the fillets, but not over them. FILLETS OF RABBITS A LA MARECHALLE. Take the fillets of three rabbits, as in the last receipt, but do not cut them; trim them neatly, leave them whole, and toss them in an egg bea- ten up with pepper and salt. Wash the inner fillets in warm water, into which (after the skin is taken off) roll the kidney; there will be: six small fillets, each of which must be rolled with a kidney; place them ona skewer and toss them im the egg with the other fillets, then with a fork take them out of the egg and roll them in bread- crumbs, laying them on paper as you do them ; after doing the whole in bread, dip them in cla- vified butter and crumbs of bread again; then lay a layer of ashes on the top of the stove, and L 3 some 168 MADE DISHES OF RABBITS. some red hot charcoal over that; and over that fire broil your fillets till of a fine light brown, then lay them on the dish, with the kidneys cross- ways on the top. For the sauce, three spoonfuls of butter sauce with a bit of glaze mixed in it to make it strong, a little pepper and salt, and nearly the juice of half a lemon; make it very hot and pour it between the fillets. A BLANQUETTE OF RABBIT. Take off the fillets of three rabbits, cut them in small thin round collops, laying them in a cut- let pan with clarified butter as you do them ; and when the whole is done sprinkle over them a little salt, and stir them over a quick fire for one minute, taking care that they are particularly white; then set the pan aside to drain off the butter, trim them neatly, and put them in a stewpan with béchamelle sauce; make it very hot, and mix in a leason of the yolk of one egg and a spoonful of cream, or you may mix it with butter sauce, then squeeze in a little lemon juice; but when you send it with béchamelle sauce, if you like, you may sometimes put in a few smal] stewed mushrooms, sometimes truffles cut in slices, stewed and put in; at other times stewed peas or celery; in short, several things may be introduced by way of change. I shall now proceed with a few of the diffe- rent ways in which a hare may be dressed, though the dishes of this animal are not near so numerous as those of rabbits, partridges, or chickens ; but still those it produces have a fine relish if properly managed. MADE MADE DISHES OF HARES. 169 MADE DISHES OF HARES. Hare au Chevreuil, or as Roebuck, ~—~— en Salmis, or Hash. ~-— in a Ragoiit. om Civet. Fillets of Hare aux Truffes, or with Truffles, ———-——.—. srillée aux Concombres. Gateau de Levraut, or Hare Cake. HARE LARDED warm; pass the liquor through a sieve, which reduce on the fire with four spoonfuls of sauce tournée (see Sauces); being properly reduced, squeeze it through a tammy into another stew- pan, stirin a bit of butter and the juice of half a lemon; the herrings being laid regularly on the dish, pour the satice over them. ) FILLETS OF HERRINGS SAUTE A L’ESTRAGON, The fillets being taken off the same as had- docks or soles, lay them in a sauté pan and pro- ceed the same; when done drain them well from the liquor, place them in the form of a star on ‘the dish, and pour over them some good tarragon sauce (see Sauces). PICKLED HERRINGS, Havea straight brown pan on purpose, one that will permit the herrings to lay at full length; inthe bottom put a little spice and a layer of herrings, then grate a tittle nutmeg in, some salt, and a bay leaf, then put in another layer of herrings, and so proceed till the pan is full, pressing them close together; pour over vinegar enough to gover them, tie them down witha bladder and : a sheet 214 MADE DISHES OF FISH. a sheet of brown paper; set them in a cool oven for twelve hours, at which time take them out, and let them stand two days before you open the pan: at all events they must be thoroughly cold before the pan is opened. RED HERRINGS TO BE SENT UP WITH THE CHEESE. The Yarmouth are the best for this purpose, and are prepared thus: scrape the herrings, cut them down the back, put them to soak for twenty minutes in warm milk and water, or longer if you do not like them salt, then dry them, and lay them open on the gridiron over a quick fire for two minutes; if broiled too long they will eat hard and salt, which is very unpleasant. When done,rub them over with butter, and send them up with the cheese. TO DRESS RED HERRINGS. [Red herrings another way, from the Almanach des Gourmands, which makes a good change; but instead of serving it with cheese, place it on the side table or between the two courses. ] Take a large thick sheet of paper, double it, and form a case able to hold eight herrings, but- ter it well on both sides; then take eight very fine herrings, cut off the heads and tails, skin them, and take away the back bone, then cut them in two, and lay them side by side in the case, taking care to put little lumps of fresh butter, mixed with fine herbs, several mush- rooms cut im square bits (a whole handful for eight herrings), parsley, young onions, shalots, a clove of garlic chopped very small, and ground pepper, anda little oil of the best quality may be added ; then strew over the whole very fine raspings MADE DISHES OF FISH. 215 raspings of bread, and put them on the gridiron over avery clear fire—take very great care that the paper does not burn, on which account we recommend strong, thick, and in short the very best paper. When done, serve them in the case with a little lemon juice squeezed over them. JOHN DOREY BOILED. Set it on in cold spring water, treat it in every shape like turbot ; send lobster sauce in a boat. JOHN DOREY i LA CREME. Observe the manner in which turbot is dressed a la Hollandaise (see page 200); and when done, and well drained from the liquor, lay the John Dorey on a dish, and pour good cream sauce over it—mushrooms would improve it. PIKE BOILED. Prepare a stuffing with two handfuls of crumb of bread, pepper and sait, a bit of butter, two eggs, and a very little grated nutmeg, mix them well together to make a stiff paste. The pike being well cleaned, crimp it in three or four places on each side, truss it with packthread thus ~@) , and skewer the stuffing in well; set. it on in boiling water with plenty of salt, and let it, boil very gently till done; serve it ona fish plate with anchovy sauce in a boat. PIKE BAKED, COMMONLY CALLED ROASTED. Make a stuffing, and prepare the pike by truss- ing it-as directed in the last receipt, rub it over with eggs beaten up with pepper and salt, sprin- kle it over with crumbs of bread, and with a spoon shake some clarified butter over it, then crumbs of bread again, bake it in a quick oven ; till = RS A age Se eS concrete ae a. as * 216 MADE DISHES OF FISH. till well done, and of a fine brown colour, take out the packthread and skewer, and serve it with pike sauce under it (see Sauces). PIKE GRILLEE AS CUTLETS. The fillets of pike being taken off with a sharp knife, cut each fillet in a sloping manner into four or five pieces, at the same time taking off the skin, toss them up in an egg beaten up vith pepper and salt; treat them in the same as fillets of soles or veal cutlets grillées ; squeeze . the juice of nearly half a lemon into four table- spoonfuls of butter sauce, which mix well up with a bit of glaze; when very hot pour it in the centre of your fish. FILLETS OF PIKE SAUTE. Sauté these the same as fillets of soles or tur- bot, and serve them with a cream sauce, italian or tarragon sauce, or any otlier you think proper. CARP OR TENCH IN A SALMIS OR. HASH. The carp being cleaned and washed, cut off the head, split it down the back, and cut both sides 4nto three or four pieces ; have ready on the fire some good consommeé in a large stewpan, with a carrot, onion, some parsley, a few peppercorns, salt, one clove of garlic, a bay leaf, a bit of lean ham, and halfa bottle of port. Put the fish into this, let it stew till well done, and put it into another stewpan. ‘The liquor in which the fish was, must stew down with four large spoonfuls of sauce tournée till it takes a moderate thick- ness, then squeeze it through a tammy to the fish, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and be careful to send it very hot to table. ‘Tench may be done in the same manner. CARP MADE DISHES OF FIstt, O17 CARP OR TENCH STEWED WITH WINE. ‘Take either a carp or tench, being well clean- ed, crimp it two or three times, set it in a stewpan with some good consommé, a bottle of Madeira, a little salt, a bay leaf, and a few peppercorns; let it stew gently between two fires till well done, then take it out, lay it on a dish; the liquor must stew with three spoonfuls of sauce tournée till tolerably thick, if not quite smooth squeeze it through a tammy, put in the juice of a lemon, with a very little cayenne pepper, and pour it over the fish, which must be garnished with veal forcemeat (see Savory Pies). PERCH BOILED. Set the perch on in cold spring water, with plenty ‘of salt, and when they boil skim them well, and place them aside to simmer till done ; serve them on a fish plate with anchovy sauce in a boat. PERCH h L’HOLLANDAISE. The perch being cleaned and washed, set them on the fire in jhalf milk, half water, some salt, and a bit of butter; let them simmer gently over a slow fire, and when done drain off the liquor, lay them ona dish with sauce & la Hollandaise (either way) over them (see Sauces). FILLETS OF PERCH FRIED IN A MARINADE, Scale and cut off the fillets of six good perch without any bone, put them ina marinade for ten hours, half vinegar, half water, carrots, onions, a bay leaf, peppercorns, salt, and one clove of garlic. A few minutes before dinner take them out of the marinade, shake them in o flour, 918 MADE DISHES OF FISH. flour, and fry them quick in good clear lard; when free from the fat, place them on the dish, with good strong butter sauce under them, into which put a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; when very hot pour it between the fish. ‘ PERCH A LA RAVIGOTE. Dress these the same as Hollandaise, except when done pour over them a good hot tarragow sauce. . EELS GRILLEE A L’ITALIENNE, For an entrée take two moderate sized eels, take off the skin, wash, bone, and dry them well; toss them in an egg beaten up with pepper and salt, and proceed in the same manner as for soles grillée, cutlets, &c. with good Italian sauce under them. EELS IN A MATELOTTE. Skin and wash the eels, cut them in three or four pieces,, lay them between bards of fat bacon and consommé enough to cover them, to which puta little carrot, onions, parsley, peppercorns, salt, bay leaf, and one clove of garlic; let them stew till well done, and let them stand in their liquor till nearly cold ; then take them out, trim them, lay them on the dish, to which add a few rolls of very good veal forcemeat blanched, and over the whole pour good béchamelle sauce, with a leason gently mixed in. EELS STEWED A L’ESPAGNOLE. Stew the eels as directed in the last receipt, dish them the same, but pour over them a good sauce a |’ Espagnole, if with mushrooms or truf- fles in it the better. EELS MADE DISHES oF FISH. 219 EELS IN A COLLAR. Chuse the largest eels, which must be cut open, take out the entrails, cut off the head and tail, and neatly cut out the bone, have ready some fine pepper, salt, shreded sage, and a little nutmeg grated; the whole being mixed together, sprinkle it over the eel as it lies flat on the table, roll it up as tight as possible, and tie it up in a small cloth for that purpose; then put, on the fire, half consommé and half water, with the head, .tail and-bones of the eel, a few pepper- corns, salt, a bay leaf, five cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; these must boil together for a few minutes, then pass the liquor through a sieve into another stewpan, into which ‘put the eels, and let them*boil very gently till done; take them from the fire, let them stand in the liquor till nearly cold and then take them out, but do not take off the cloths till the eels are thoroughly _ cold, then lay them in a pan or basin with the liquor poured over them. When cold this is a very proper supper dish, cutting the eels into slices, and laying them round the dish, with the liquor in the centre. ; PRAWNS. Prawns you may always get ready boiled in town, if not, boil them in salt and water for three or four minutes; when cold serve them up for a second course or supper dish, neatly placed round parsley, put in the centre of the dish; or smooth a bit of butter in a convex in the centre of the dish, into which stick the heads of the prawns; the tails projecting form a strange ap- pearance. o 2 SHRIMPS 220 MADE DISHES OF FISH. SHRIMPS IN A GRATIN. Pick a quart or two of shrimps, according to the size of the dish wanted, toss them in good béchamelle sauce with a little lobster spawn pounded and mixed in it, as directed for lobster sauce ; make the whole very hot, and squeeze in a little lemon juice, then lay it on the dish with » crumbs of bread over it, as directed for any other gratin, giving it a fine colour with the salaman- der before it is served to table. LOBSTERS IN A GRATIN. Two lobsters being well boiled, mince the meat very fine and take out the spawn ; pound it well with butter, and after rubbing it through a tammy, mix it with béchamelle sauce, as directed for the last, and finish it in the same manner. LOBSTERS IN AN ITALIAN SALAD. Take two lobsters, cut them in pieces by tak- ing off the claws and tail, each of which neatly split in two; the spawn rub through a dry sieve to garnish the salad; then proceed with the same herbs and Italienne sauce as directed for a salmon salad, placing the lobster and other things according to your fancy. LOBSTER IN A SAVOURY JELLY. Make a good aspic jelly, as directed in fow] in jelly; being very clear, and the mould ready in ice, half fill it with the jelly, and when it is set, lay some anchovies shreded fine in what form you please on the jelly, then your lobster cut as for salad over it, fill the mould with the remainder of the jelly, and when set serve it for a second course, entrée, or asupper dish. | OYSTERS Se ee ee MADE DISHES OF FISH. 99} OYSTERS IN A GRATIN. ‘Take five dozen of oysters, set them on the fire till they begin to boil, then take them off and beard them, putting them in another stewpan as you do them, pass the liquor through a sieve over them, and set them on the fire again till they begin to boil; then drain the liquor from them, and toss them over the fire into a stewpan with a bit of butter. When melted, and it be- gins to fry, put in some good cream or bécha- melle sauce, with a very little lemon juice; lay it in the dish, and treat it in the same manner as a gratin of chicken, or of any other thing, browning it with the salamander before it is served on table. TO MAKE A BRONDADE. [From the Almanach des Gourmands, not that it is a choice dish, but it shows the proper method of dressing a stock fish, which is strong and tough, so as to make it tender and easy of di- gestion]. Take a piece of fine stock fish, let it soak for four and twenty hours in water to cleanse and soften, then put it in a pot full of water on the fire, taking care to remove it as soon as it begins to boil; then put some butter, oil, parsley, and garlick into a saucepan, and let it melt over a gentle fire; during the time you pick the stock fish and break it into small pieces, then put it in the saucepan, and now and then pour in a little oil, butter, or milk, as you see it thicken; you must keep stirring the saucepan till the stock fish is melted to a sort of cream. If you chuse it green pound spinage instead of parsley. A. stock fish, naturally hard and strong, becomes by this means tender and easy of digestion. 0 3 a al Fl ( iM EEE gs —————— Saget —— Sees embers Sen Sree 999 VEGETABLES. VEGETABLES DRESSED IN DIFFERENT WAYS. Preliminary Hints and Observations. All vegetables, particularly cabbages, lettuces, cauliflowers, &c. and such as have leaves or ca- vities, great care must be taken to wash them in several waters; the garden people generally wash them, but it is wrong to trust to them, therefore split cabbages and cauliflowers nearly in half at the stalk end, that all filth and insects may come out in the water, without which it is impossible the vegetables should be clean ; and as it is not customary to boil these kinds of vegeta- bles in stewpans, butin saucepans on the kitchen fire, or any other fire appropriated for that pur- pose, and as this is trusted to a kitchen maid (some- timesnot very cleanly), often examine the sauce- pansin which the vegetables are boiled, because to save trouble they may be used the second or third time without cleaning; endeavour as nearly as you can guess to have them ready just as the din- ner is wanted, for by standing greens get strong, tough, and unpleasant. Let them boil quickly, with plenty of salt in the water; but the time of their boiling depends upon the taste of those you dress them for, some liking them much done, others preferring them crisp ; but above all things be careful they are clean, as earwigs in cabbages, and gritty spinage denotes dirty cookery. Artichokes boiled. . ; ———-— 4 |’Italienne. a l’Etouffade. -— 4]’Espagnole, Beet Root baked. Broccoli boiled. Beans, French. —— Garden. Cabbage ala Dame Simone. Cabbage ——— ere eee VEGETABLES. 995 Cabbage stewed & l’Espagnole. ‘To make a Garbure three ways: from the Almanach des Gourmands. Cauliflowers ala Créme. Carrots in a Purée. stewed. Cucumbers 4 la Créme. a l’Espagnole. —— en Gratin. a la Bourgeoise. Celery stewed & la Créme. —H————— with a Toast. ————— —— en Gratin. Chesnuts. stewed. --—- in a Purée. Endive. ood stewed. Jerusalem Artiehokes. Lettuce farce 4 la Dame Simone. Lettuce in a Purée. stewed to garnish Beef ; or in Brown Sauce. Leeks on Toasts. Mushrooms stewed. —— large, broiled. ——~—— small, 4 la Créme. : — en Gratin. — en Marinade. Onions and Beef in a Salad, — fried. Potatoes in a Purée. in different ways. Peas, plain boiled. —— stewed a la Frangoise. ala Bourgeoise. in a Purée, Parsnips. - Parsley fried. Spinage plain. ——-— with Sauce. Sorrel in a Purée. Salsify stewed with different Sauces. Scorzonera ditto. Turnips in a Purée. ————-—— en Haricot-blanc. ——-— a&lEspagnole, or in the Spanish fashion. Plain Salad in the English fashion, o 4 ARTICHOKES ’ yy A ee = See —a rt es 994 VEGETABLES. ARTICHOKES BOILED. Take half a dozen or eight young artichokes before the choke becomes unpleasant to eat, cut them off the top, and neatly trim the bottom round, tossing them in cold water as you do them ; half an hour before they are wanted have plently of water boiling, into which put your artichokes with a handful of salt; when done, and the water drained off, serve them by them- selves on a dish, with melted butter in a boat. . ARTICHOKES i L’ITALIENNE. If the artichokes are not quite so young as for boiling it does not matter, however with a sharp knife cut them in quarters, trim off the top and the green round the bottom, take out the choke, rub them as you do them with lemon, and put them in a stewpan of cold water; have ready on the fire a large stewpan of boiling water with plenty of salt, into which put the artichokes to blanch for four or five minutes; with a colander spoon put them out into cold water, pick off all the loose leaves, and set them to stew in good braize between bards of fat bacon, with a car- rot, an onion, parsley, peppercorns, salt, one clove of garlick, and a bay leaf; when done carefully lay them on a sieve to drain, place them in what form you please on the dish, with good Italienne sauce over them (see Sauces). s ARTICHOKES A L’ETOUFFADE. Trim your artichokes as directed in the first receipt, set them to stew the same as the Ita- lienne, with a small bit of butter laid over each choke ; when done, and the liquor well drained off by turning their tops downwards on a sieve, place VEGETABLES. 225 place them on the dish; the while have sotie good strong gravy reduced nearly to glaze, to which put two table-spoonfuls of butter sauce ; when hot squeeze in a little lemon juice, and pour it over the artichokes before you serve them to table. ARTICHOKES A L’ESPAGNOLE. This dish in general is made of the bottoms, which are dried ; set them the overnight to soak in a pan of water, change it in the morning, and put them in warm water till wanted. An hour before the dinner set them on the fire to blanch and skim them for two or three minutes, then take them out, and put them to stew between bards of fat bacon, as directed in the two former receipts; when done, and the liquor drained off, place them in a miroton or any other form round the dish, with sauce a lespagnole over them (see Sauces), ito which before you serve it stir in a bit of butter with a squeeze of lemon juice. BEET-ROOT BAKED. Take a good red beet, wash it well, and cut off the green, but be careful not to break or cut off the roots, as frequently by that neglect the beet-roots lose their beautiful colour; bake them in a moderate oven till well done; when cold’ cut them in thin slices, or any shape you fancy, to garnish your salads, or for any other use you may want them ; some prefer boiling, but I re- commend baking them, for when well baked they cut finer and eat much richer. BROCOLI BOILED. Chuse four or six heads of brocoli, according o 5 to Seen i Etna a Sia Se, a EES AIS — = Seas SS SS Soap as RE 296 " VEGETABLES, to the size of the dish wanted, cut off the stalk and split them a little at that end, put them in spring water; have some water on the fire boil- ing with plenty of salt, into which put the heads of brocoli, and let them boil gently till done’; serve them either in the vegetable tureen or on a dish, with butter sauce over them. FRENCH BEANS BOILED. Cut each bean in two or three shreds, putting them in water as you cut them, till you have as many as you want, drain them on a sieve, and set them on the fire in boiling water with plenty of salt, to boil quickly till done; serve them on a dish with butter sauce, or tarragon sauce, poured over them (see Sazces). GARDEN BEANS BOILED. When the beans are shelled boil them quickly in plenty of water with salt; when done toss them in a stewpan, with a good bit of butter, and pepper and salt, and serve them to table with parsley and butter in a boat; the plainest way (and a good one it is), is to boil them with a piece of ham or bacon, which serve to table with the beans round it. CABBAGE A LA DAME SIMONE. Six good Savoy cabbages must be blanched, or half boiled, theri lay them in cold water ; have a veal farce ready (see Savoury Pies), and your cabbages being taken out and drained from the water, put a little of this farce into each cab- bage, tie them up separately with packthread to keep in the farce, and lay them between bards of fat bacon in a stewpan, to stew gently till well done; take them out to drain, pass the liquor through VEGETABLES. 997 through a sieve, take off the fat, let the liquor reduce over the fire till very strong, lay the cab- bages on a dish, and pour the gravy over them. CABBAGE STEWED A L’ESPAGNOLE. Take as many cabbages as directed in the last receipt, and boil them well; when done drain them on a sieve, tie each séparate with pack- thread, and lay them between bards of fat bacon with some good braize, to stew very gently; take them out of the braize, and lay them in a line upon a clean cloth; cut off the packthread, and roll the cabbages tight up in the cloth for a minute or two, then open the cloth and cut the cabbages in pieces about six inches in length, lay them on the dish; have a sauce 4 l’espagnole. ready, with a bit of butter mixed in it, and one squeeze of lemon; this sauce when very hot pour over the cabbages, and serve it to table. Cabbage stewed in this way is very good, and proper to garnish stewed beef of any kind, sometimes with other vegetables intermixed. TO MAKE A GARBURE. [From the Almanach des Gourmands, which may be served in a large dinner as a vegetable for the second course. ‘The Gar- bure en Maigre as an entrée for the first course. But the next. Garbure with Partridges is the most esteemed, though neither can be ranked a genteel dish.] Begin with having some good stock, or some excellent broth, then take some cabbages, which you must cut into four parts; after blanching and washing them well, press them till they are dry, and tie up each quarter separately; then place some bacon at the bottom of a porridge pot or stewpan, and arrange the cabbages on it, either with some little or large pieces of ham, and a o 6 fillet 998 VEGETABLES. fillet or leg of veal; after covering the whole with slices of bacon, add carrots, onions, seve- ral herbs, moisten it with the stock or broth, and let it stew over a gentle fire; when it is well stewed cut some bread, and let it simmer till it is rather thickened with the stock or broth, then drain the cabbages on a-clean towel, and press them. Take some gruyére or Parmesan cheese, well grated and mixed in equal parts, then sprin- kle your vessel with it; this ought to be of sil- ver, or at least of some substance that will bear the fire. Strew some cheese on a layer of cab- bages, then put a layer of the stewed bread, likewise sprinkled with cheese, and so succes- sively till the dish is filled to the brim, taking care that the cabbages must form the under layer, which ought to be more sprinkled than the rest ; the dish being filled to the edge, put it to simmer gently, either inan oven or on a stone, a very gentle heat above and below, and serve it up burning hot. At the same time send some very good broth to table, for thdse that do not like any thing thick. A GARBURE EN MAIGRE. Make a good broth of dried peas, carrots, onions and celery; when it is stewed enough strain it, then take some other onions, carrots, and celery, and let them simmer in a saucepan with a little butter; as soon as they begin to stick, pour the peas soup into it, and let the whole stew together; you may add the legs of frogs, carp, tench, but all very fresh, and you will have an excellent dish ; press it after tasting it, and proceed as before to make your garbure, except VEGETABLES. 299 except that you must use butter to stew the cab- bages instead of bacon, and you must moisten it _ with the liquor of vegetables. ANOTHER FAMOUS GARBURE. Roast an old partridge newly killed, take about fifty fine chesnuts well roasted and picked, and put them into the stewpan; bone and skin your partridge, and pound the flesh, drain your chesnuts, put them and the partridge into a mortar, and pound and mix them well together, then put them into a sieve and press them well, then put some bits of bread to stew, and mix them with the remainder. CAULIFLOWERS A LA CREME. Boil a couple of white cauliflowers as directed for broccoli, have ready some good cream sauce (see Sauces) in a large stewpan, into which carefully pick the flower without breaking ity a few minutes before it is wanted, gently toss it over the fire to warm (but do not use a spoon), then put it out in the dish; or when the cauli- flowers are boiled, place them neatly on a dish in the form of one, over which put your cream sauce. Sometimes serve them with butter sauce, CARROTS IN A PUREE. Scrape and cut in quarters some carrots, take out the inside pale yellow and do not use it: when you have washed the outsides boil them very tender in plenty of water with salt, then drain them ona sieve, and put them in a stew- pan with a good bit of butter; with a wood- en spoon stir them over the fire till the but- ter begins to fry, and the carrots are well mashed, put in a small ladleful of good con- sommé, 230 VEGETABLES. sommé, a very little sugar and salt, and conti- nue to stir them over the fire till nearly reduced to the thickness they were at first; add three table spoonfuls of sauce tournée (see Sauces), stir it on the fire for three minutes, and rub it through the tammy in a large dish; if it should be thick and difficult to go through, add a very little more consommé as you pass it; afterwards put it in a stewpan, and before it is wanted stir it over the fire to boil for four or five minutes : if you think it not strong enough, mix in a bit of glaze. This may serve to garnish stewed beef, mutton, lamb, ducks, &c. CARROTS STEWED. Cut astrait clear carrot in lengths of about three inches, boil them well, and when done put them to stew between bards of bacon, as other vegetables: you may serve these on a dish by themselves, with brown sauce, but. the usual way of serving them is with stewed beef, or with stewed cutlets or fillets of mutton; in. short, they are useful as a garnish with other vegetables for many things. a CUCUMBERS A LA CREME. Take four strait rough-coated cucumbers, taste each end that it is not bitter; cut them in half, then in four quarters, and with a sharp knife cut out the seeds and turn off the skin, tossing them in water as you do them; have ready some good clarified butter, into which (Wheh well drained from the water) put in your cuctitibers ; let thein fry (turning them at times) ‘till of a fine light co- four, then ay them ‘on a sieve to drain the but- ter from them: when free from fat, lay them in a stew- VEGETABLES. 93} a stewpan to stew gently, with consommé enough to cover them, a very little sugar and salt, and a round paper over over the whole; when stewed nearly dry, lay them them again ona sieve, then place them neatly on the dish, and pour over them some good cream sauce (see Sauces), with a leason of the yolk of one ege with a little cream: be careful to serve it very hot. CUCUMBERS A L’ESPAGNOLE. These may be cut and prepared like the last, but instead of cream sauce serve them with sauce a Vespagnole. (See Sauces.) The most usual way with this kind of sauce is thus: cut two good cucumbers in pieces, each about one inch and a half in length, take out the seeds and turn off the skin, and round the corners, putting them in water as you do them, then fry them in clarified butter a light brown colour; when done, and well drained on a sieve, put them in a stewpan with a small ladleful of consommé and the same of sauce tournce, a very little sugar, and the same quantity of salt; let these boil very gently by the side of the stove till reduced to half, observing to skim it when any fat or scum rises; if it should not be strong enough for the use you want it, mix in a bit of glaze. adding salt or more sugar if it should not suit your pa- late : these in general are served with mutton or lamb cutlets, leg of lamb, &c. &c. CUCUMBERS IN A GRATIN. Cut in your cucumbers as in the last receipt, and stew them in consommé as 4 la créme, and when drained from stewing, toss them in some 232 VEGETABLES. some good hot béchamelle sauce (see Sauces), with a leason of the yolk of one egg; put them into a dish and shake some fine bread crumbs over them, and with a spoon sprinkle some cla- rified butter over them and crumbs of bread again; then brown them well over with the sa- lamander. CUCUMBERS A LA BOURGEOISE. Prepare and dish your cucumbers as a la créme; the while shred three or four onions very fine, and fry them in butter till brown; when so, andedrained off from the butter, put them in a stewpan to simmer by the side of the stove, with four table-spoonfuls of consommé, and the same of sauce tournée (see Sauces); when reduced to half the thickness, stir in a hit of butter, and one squeeze of lemon juice, salt is required ; pour this very hot over the cucum- ers, CELERY STEWED A LA CREME. Chuse a dozen heads of the best white celery, boil them in salt and water till nearly done, then set them to stew between bards of good fat ba- con, with consommé enough to cover them; when very tender, drain them on a sieve, and serve them with a good béchamelle sauce. (See Sauces.) CELERY WITH TOASTS. Stew them as in the last receipt, then have two or three small toasts made, about three inches square, and well buttered, on which lay the celery, and serve it to table. This is proper for a supper dish. : CELERY Se ee ROOT a RS ee ee VEGETABLES, 233 CELERY IN A GRATIN. Take a dozen heads of white celery, trim off the stringy parts, and the other neatly cut in round shapes, about the size of a shilling; boil them till done, then put them to stew in good consommé, with a bit of butter, a little sugar, and salt; and when nearly dry, drain them ona sieve, toss them in good béchamelle sauce, and finish them like a gratin of cucumbers. CHESNUTS STEWED. Take half a hundred Spanish chesnuts, (if for a large dish,) and with a knife nick a bit of the skin off each; shake them over the fire in a stew- pan, with a bit of butter, till the rind and inner ‘Skin comes clean off: put them to simmer gen- tly in some consommé, tossing them over at times, but be careful that you do not break them; when they are nearly dry, put to them some good sauce 4 lespagnole (see Sauces), in which they must simmer géntly for a short time : if too thick, add a little consommé and galt to your palate, with the addition of a few stewed mushrooms; serve them with roasted turkey, stewed beef, &c. CHESNUTS IN A PUREE. Having taken off the rind and stewed them in consommé, as in the last receipt, with a wooden | spoon mash them together, and put in a little salt and three table spoonfuls of sauce tournée (see Sauces); when these are well mixed and boiled together, rub them through the tammy ; if stiff and difficult to pass, add a ladleful of strong consommé while rubbing it through. This . is O34 VEGETABLES, is seryed with beef and entrées of cutlets, tur- keys, ducks, &c. ENDIVE IN A PUREE, A dozen heads of endive must be picked and well washed in several waters; then having a Jarge stewpan of water boiling on the fire, put in the endive, with a handful of salt; skim it well, and let it boil till done, then drain it ona large hair sieve for two or three minutes, and with a wooden spoon rub it through the same sieve into a dish ; put it in a corner of the sieve again for an hour or more, to drain the water from it, then stir it on the fire in a stewpan, with a bit of butter; when it is well melted, put in. three or four table spoonfuls of good consommé, and continue stirring it on the fire till it boils to its former thickness; when’ so, mix in three spoonfuls of béchamelle sauce: for a minute boil it on the fire, take it off, and stir in the yolk of one ege with a little cream, and salt, with a yery little sugar if required. Serve it with fillets of chicken sauté, lamb cutlets, or for a second course dish, &c. &c. ENDIVE STEWED. : The same quantity of endive may be taken as for the last receipt, but observe it must be the best; pick off what you think bitter, wash it well, and blanch it whole in plenty of water, | with a good handful of salt: when done lay them ona sieve to drain, and proceed as directed for cabbage a Vespagnole, but instead of braize to stew them in take good strong consommé. Serve it as a garnish, or with sauce a Vespagnole, or béchamelle saucer PERUSALEM VEGETABLES. 985 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. These must be neatly peeled, and boiled very gently by the side of the stove, with a little salt in the water; when well done (but not too much, for it will then be impossible to make them look well,) place them en the dish, and serve them with plain butter sauce, or italienne, béche- melle, &c. LETTUCE FARCE A LA DAME SIMONE: Proceed with these as directed for cabbage 4 la Dame Simone, but,you may make the farce finer, by introducing chickens with the veal, and instead of braize stew them in consommé. Serve them with the same kind of strong sauce, or, for a change, béchamelle. LETTUCE IN A PUREE, Dress these in the same manner as endive. LETTUCE STEWED TO GARNISH BEEFs Observe the receipt for stewed cabbage, and dress these in the same way. ; LEEKS WITH TOASTS. « Take a dozen fine leeks, split them nearly iri half, amd wash them well; tie them like aspara- gus, and put them ina stewpan of boiling water with a handful of salt: when weil done, put them outon a sieve to drain, the while have one or two thick toasts, well buttered, on which lay the leeks, and serve them to table. MUSHROOMS STEWED. The mushrooms being cleaned and peeled, set them over & moderate fire, with a bit of butter, alittle pepper and salt, and a few of the trimmings chopped fine: toss them about that they do not P**. stielk | iF ] % 2396 VEGETABLES. stick to the bottom, and when the butter begins to fry put in a very little consommé; when they have stewed a few minutes longer, add to them some good strong sauce 4 l’espagnole, let them boil again for a short time, and before you serve them stir in a bit of butter and one squeeze of lemon juice. MUSHROOMS BROILED. : These must be of the largest sort, but be care- ful to take none but those that grow in the open pasture land, for those that grow near or under trees are poisonous, and not proper to be used in cookery. The skin looks yellow, and the un- der part has not the clear flesh colour of the real. mushroom, besides which they smell rank and disagreable ; but the skin of a good mushroom is white and. clear (when not old), the under part a fine flesh colour, and ‘the smell is plea- sant: these only are the kinds to be used. Pep- per and salt them well, lay them with the stalk upwards ona small gridiron, broil them rather quick, and serve them with strong gravy. x SMALL MUSHROOMS A LA CREME, OR WITH CREAM SAUCE. To small mushrooms, as in sauce tournée (see Sauces), put some good cream sauce, in which let them boil a few minutes; toast the crust of a rasped French roll, fill it with the mushrooms, turn it over on the dish, and pour the remainder over it. MUSHROOMS IN A GRATIN. These are prepared with cream sauce, like. the last; put them out into the dish, shake some fine crumbs of bread over them, and sprinkle ee with WEGETABLES. 397 with clarified butter, then crumbs of bread again; before you serve them brown them with the salamander. : _ MUSHROOMS IN A MARINADE FRIED. _Chuse some good button mushrooms, peal them, and put them te pickle (for a day) in half vinegar and half water, salt, one clove of gar- lic, peppercorns, parsley, carrots, and onions 3 have some good fresh lard on the fire, take the mushrooms from the pickle, shake them in flour. and fry them while the lard is hot, laying them on paper as you do them; serve them with a sharp sauce, made of three table spoonfuls of butter sauce mixed with a little glaze, and the juice of nearly half a lemon. ONIONS AND BEETROOT IN A SALAD. Boil some sound large onions till well done, then set them on a dish to cool; having some beetroot well baked, cut it into thin slices, and the onion the same, then lay a slice of onion be-. > ‘tween two of beet, putting them into’ the form you please, on the dish; pour over them an lia- lienne sauce as for Italienne salad (see Sauces), and serve it to table. he ONIONS FRIED. Take either large onions, slice them very fine, and fry them in goed clarified butter, or small. sound onions, done the same as for garnishing with any other vegetables, &c.; if for steaks, or any thing plain, fry them in the fat after the steaks, &c. are fried; but be careful not to let them burn, as of course they will acquire a bad taste. Pp 2 POTATOES 238 VEGETABLES. POTATOES IN’A PUREE. Peel and slice some potatoes, and set them on the fire ina stewpan of cold water, with a bit of butter and a little salt; let them boil very gently till done, then pour them on a sieve to drain; when the water has run off, mash them well to- gether over a stove, with a good bit of butter and a little salt; when the butter is well mixed, stir in some thick cream, and rub them through a hair sieve: this may be served as a supper dish, with crumbs of bread over it, browned with the salamander, or served in the centre of lamb or mutton cutlets, &c. _ POTATOES A LA MAITRE-D’HOTEL. Boil a few kidney potatoes; when done neatly trim them, lay them in a miroton round the dish, and pour over them sauce a la maitre-d’hétel, (see Sauces): you may serve them with an Ita-— lienne sauce, or any other. xX YOUNG POTATOES A LA CREME. Take some fine young potatoes, when they first come in; boil them in a little water with plenty of galt, and when done neatly take off the skin; toss them in good cream sauce, and serve them at the second course. PEAS PLAIN. BOILED. Have on the fire a large pan of spring water, when it boils, put in the peas with a handful of salt, and a stalk of mint; when done, drain them in a colander and toss them into a stewpan witha good bit of butter, a little salt and pep- per; if for the second course, be careful that theyare the very youngest, and leave out the PEBPE: PEAS VEGETABLES. . 239 PEAS STEWED A LA FRANCOISE. Boil some very young peas in plenty of spring water and a bit of salt; when done drain the water off, and set them to stew with a bit of but-. ter, green onion, and a small bunch of parsley, a little sugar and salt, let these stew together for a few minutes, then add two or three spoon- fuls of consommé; when they appear dry, add some cream sauce, but be careful not to put too much; if for the second course, as there is not so much required as for an entrée in the first course ; before you serve them mixin a leason of the yolk of one egg with a little cream. PEAS A LA BOURGEOISE. Cut in squares two or three cabbage lettuces or heads of endive, three green onions, which fry in clarified butter, of a fine brown colour: the - lettuces being well washed and drained from the ’ ° : co water, put them in the pan with the onions to stew very gently till done, and then drain them onasieve. ‘Toss them together with the peas, and stew them as directed in the last receipt, a la Francoise, PEAS IN Ac PUREE. Proceed as directed for peas soup, but let the purée be much thicker, and put in a little more sugarand salt; this will serve to garnish a stew- ed tee of lamb; lamb or mutton cutlets, ducks stewed, &c. PARSNIPS BOILED. Boil them in plenty of water with salt, till ten- der, then serve them on a dish by themselves; or when boiled, eut them in slices, and toss them Pp 3 ya up q i] a t Ft { 3 a | rte es a 240 VEGETAGLES. up in a good bit of butter: they are eaten in ge- neral with salt fish. PARSLEY FRIED. Pick some parsley, (but not very fine) wash it well and set it in ona sieve to drain; after the fish, croquettes, &c are fried, while the fat is very hot, put in the parsley, stir it about with a colander spoon for a minute, then spread it out ona sheet of paper; this is generally used for croquettes or fried fish. SPINAGE BOILED. This is apt to be gritty, so pick and wash it well, in several waters; the while havea large saucepan of water, boiling on the fire with plen- ty of salt in it, into which put the spinage, and when done, pour it into a colander; squeeze it well, cut it in squares, lay it on a dish, and serve it to table. SPINAGE WITH SAUCE, Boil this as the last, and when the water is well squeezed from it, lay it on the table, chop it fine, put it in a stewpan with a bit of butter over the stove for a few minutes, till the butter is melted, and begins to fry; then add a small Ia- dieful of gravy; when that is reduced, put in three table spoonsful of sauce tournée, stir it over , the fire for a few minutes longer, and add a very little salt if not enough; thea put it out on the dish, spread it smooth with a knife, and cross it each way, place round it garnitures, or toasted bread. SORREL IN A PURGE. Young sorrel is the best; wash and drain the water VEGETABLES. 241 water from it well, put a bit of butier in the bottom of a stewpan, and put in the sorrel, cover it down close, and set it stewing very gently till well done; drain it on a hair sieve for a few mi- nutes, rub it through on a plate, and when all through, put it in a stewpan witha bit of buiter, avery little sugar and salt, then treat it the same as spinage, but instead of sauce tournée put béchamelle, or cream sauces. SALSIFY. . Scrape and wash the salsify, and boil it in plenty of water with salt till done, then set it to stew in good strong veal braize (if you have any); serve it on adish for the second course, with butter, béchamelle, Italienne or tarragon sauce. Or when it is boiled, instead of stewing it, make a batter, but much stiffer than for batter pudding, into which dip the salsify, and fry it in hot ined ; serve it dry, or with a strong brown sauce under it, : . SCORZONERA. Proceed in the same manner as for salsify. TURNIPS IN A PUREE. See mutton cutlets. TURNIPS IN A HARICOT BLANC. Turn your turnips in the shape of a barrel, or cut them like dice. Boil and skim them well till nearly done, put them to stew in some good light coloured consommé, with a small bit of butter, a little sugar and salt; a round paper over the whole, and be careful to keep them as white as possible. When done put them on a sieve to drain. Neatly place them onthe dish and pour over them some cream sauce. These in general p 4 are 9 AQ VEGETABLES. are used as garnish, for boiled chickens, cutlets, é&c. cut and stew some celery in the same manner as turnips, which intermixed with them, will make a great improvement. TURNIPS A L’ESPAGNOLE, OR IN THE SPANISH WAY. Let the turnips be cut as in the preceding re- ceipt. Have some clarified butter ready on the fire, in a large stewpan, into which put the tur- nips, and fry them of a fine brown colour, then put them on a sieve to drain; have a stewpan on the fire, half veal espagnole and half sauce tournée, into which put the turnips with a very little sugar and salt, and let them boil gently by the side of the stove till nearly reduced to one half; if not strong enough gently mix in a bit of glaze. These in general are used as a garnish. PLAIN SALAD IN THE ENGLISH FASHION. Take two or three gerse lettuces split in two, wash them and cut them across into eight or nine pieces, with which intermix small salad, celery, and beetroot, cut in pieces, a few young radishes, sliced cucumber, and a boiled egg cut in pieces and garnished about it: then prepare a sauce with two yolks of eggs boiled hard, which rub well together in a basin with a wooden spoon ; a little pepper, salt, and mustard, when these are mixed to a smooth paste, begin by putting in a very little oil, mixing it between each tea - spoonful, when as much as necessary is put, mx in the vinegar the same. If the sauce 1s mixed as directed above, it will never require shaking, and it will always appear like cream; to see par- ticles of oil on the top of the salad liquor looks : very ~ EGGS. 243 very bad. Pour this over the salad, or serve it in a cruet. EGGS IN DIFFERENT WAYS. Buttered Eggs. Eggs a la Bourguignote. Omelet. —— in Paste fried. Eggs au Miroir. —— with Anchovies. poached. —— with Cream. a la Suisse. —— with Sorrel. BUTTERED EGGS. Break into a stewpan nine whole eggs, and three yolks, which beat well up, then add nearly a quarter of a pound of butter, two spoonfuls of béchamelle sauce and a little pepper and salt, stir them over a gentle fire, till they become thick (stirring them the whole of the time with a wooden spoon) ; put them into the dish, and garnish them round with toasted bread or garnitures of puff paste. Do not leave them too long on the fire, or they will get hard. Q AN OMELET. Beat up in a basin the same quantity of eggs as in the last receipt, to which put a little pepper and salt, four table-spoonfuls of cream sauce, a little thick cream and a small bit of butter; all these being well beaten up together, have a fry-_ ing pan over a brisk fire with a good bit of butter in it, into which pour the eggs, and stir them quickly about till they turn rather thick, then take out the spoon, hold them over the fire to brown; and turn them on a dish with the brown side upwards. You may put to the eggs before they are fried, either parsley, lemon, thyme, and mushrooms, chopped fine, and stewed in butter, or some grated ham. Or lay some stewed aspa- pd ragus O44 RaGS. ragus peas under the omelet. Be careful the pan is perfectly clean. EGGS AU MIROIR. Set a cutlet pan over the fire with a bit of but- ter in it, into which when melted, break five or six eggs, and sprinkle them over with pepper and salt. When the white is well set, and the egg done, with a plain cutter cut each egg out separately, and lay them on the dish with a good strong gravy under them. POACHED EGGS. Take a middle sized stewpan, fill it. almost with water, and near a pint of vinegar, set it over a brisk fire; when it boils, break in three eggs, and cover them closely, they will be done in a minute and a half; which you must try with a colander spoon; when done, take them out, trim them, and put them in another pan of cold water, so proceed till you have as many as you want. About half an hour before they are want- ed set the stewpan, with them in, to warm gently by the side of the fire. EGGS WITH SORREL. Have a purée of sorrel (see Vegetables), which. lay in the dish, and over it lay five or six poach- edeggs. You may serve eggs with spinage in the same manner. EGGS A LA BOURGUINOTE. Beat up the whites of seven eggs, to a strong froth, then add fine powdered sugar to them, till they look perfectly smooth; have a large stewpan with some milk in it boiling on the fire, then with a spoon take up some of the whites and drep in three spoonfuls; cover them aie an FGGS. GAS and when boiled up once, with a colander spoon take them out and lay them on a large hair sieve;; proceed thus till you have done the whole; stir nearly a pint of thick cream with some pounded orange flower and ratafie, and the yolks of two eggs, some sugar rubbed with lemon peel scrap- ed in, stir them on the fire till they boil, pour it out in the dish, and lay your eggs on thetop. A border placed round the dish will be an improve- ment, for which see Pastes. | EGGS IN PASTE FRIED. Chuse some of the smallest eggs, poach them as usual; when trimmed and cold, carefully dry them in acloth; then have a paste, as for ris- soles, into which lay the eges, cut them the same shape, fry them in the same manner, and serve them very hot, ona napkin. EGGS WITH ANCHOVIES, Take two or three French rolls, cut them into slices, (but not very thin) and toast and butter them; over them cross shreds of anchovies, place - them on the dish, and before you serve them, lay a poached egg on each toast. : EGGS WITH CREAM.- | Whip upa pint of thick cream into a. strong froth, to which put plenty of potinded orange flower and sugar; beat up the yolks by them- selves, and the whites by themselves into a smooth froth; mix the yolks with the cream, and . then the whites; squeeze the whole through a tammy ; fill some cream cups with it; put it ina balneo maré with fire under and over it, till it is perfectly set and done; then serve it in the cups. i EGGS ‘ A 1 I Hi le) i ly j \ A g | } | ‘ 1 ) A 246 SAVORY PIES, &c. EGGS A LA SUISSE. , Prepare your eggs as for au miroir, lay them in the bottom of the dish, which must have a border strong not deep, for which see Pastry, and over them pour a good brown sauce with grated Parmesan cheese in it; on the top sprinkle some bread crumbs with cheese, then clarified butter and crumbs again; then with the salamander brown it nicely over. SAVORY PIES, PATES, AND RISSOLES. Forcemeat for raised. Pies, &c. &e. Another Forcemeat of Veal. Petits Patés 4 la Reine. —-— de Godiveau. : aux Légumes, or with Vegetables. ——----——— de Fajsan, ou Truffes. ae 2 |’ Espagnole: de Ris de Veau, or with Sweetbreads. wee Of Chicken Livers with Truffles. ————~——— de Quenelles de Veau, or with Forcemeat. ————----—— of Sturgeon. ————-— of Soles. mene Of Pike. —————ae— Of Lobsters. of Oysters. of Shrimps: \ Vol au Vent, with the different Things used to garnish it. A raised Pie to be served hot, either of Mutton, Partridge, Chicken, Carp, or Eels. ‘ = A French raised Pie, to be served cold. Pork Pie. Pigeon Pie hot. Venison Pie or Pasty, cold. 2 to be served hot. coe ease. = Plain Chicken Pie, —— Veal Pie. =—— Beef Steak Pie, Plain SOVORY PIES, &c. 247 Ylain Mutton Pie. ~-— Giblet Pie, Rissoles ala d’Artoise. Cammelon a la Luxembourg. Sea Pie or Pudding. : FORCEMEAT FOR RAISED PIES. Chop some parsley, lemon thyme, and mush~ rooms, set them on the fire with a small bit of butter, and one clove of garlic, stir them till the butter begins to look clear, then put in the crumb of a French roll, and cover it with good consommeé ; stir it on the fire till it has boiled to a paste, then take it off; take a dozen fat chick- ens livers, set them on the fire in cold water with salt; when they begin to boil take them off, drain them from the water, trim off any part that looks bad, and fry them in a little clarified butter till done; put them all in the mortar, pound them till smooth, with the yolks of two eggs boiled hard; then add to them about two ounces of fat, from a fillet of veal that has been dressed, which mix together; then add the bread and pound the whole well; when they are well blended, put in two or three bits of truffles or the liquor from them; two whole eggs and the yolks of three, with pepper, salt, and pounded spice to your palate, rub the whole through a fine hair sieve, put it in a basin, and cover it with bards of fat bacon till wanted. ANOTHER FORCEMEAT, Prepare some fine herbs with the crumb of a French roll, as directed in the last receipt, take out the nut of a good fillet of veal, cut off all the skin, shred it, and chop it very fine; when nearly chopped enough add the bread, a few " trufiles pr Seems Ca 8 ve RT STs agement “848 SAVORY Pigs, &c. truffles and their liquor, some good fat bacon, and ham shredded and put into it: finish it with pepper, salt, spice and eggs, as directed in the last receipt: but chserve to chop and mix it well till the whole is in, then put it by foruse. ‘This is used for pies when livers are not to be got. VEAL FORCEMEAT. ! Prepare some fine herbs with bread and con- sommé, as directed for raised pie forcemeat, which set on a plate to ccol; then take the nut out of a fillet of veal, cut the veal in slices and scrape each slice till you have entirely taken the meat from the sinews, chop it well, put itin a mortar, pound it, and when pounded, rub it through a fine wire or hair sieve; take the side fat from a dressed fillet of veal, cut it in pieces and pound it till perfectly smooth; the bread being cold put it into the fat, rub and pound them well together, and rub them through the sieve to the veal; having it so far ready, put the whole in the mortar again, pound and rub it well altogether; put in one egg first, and then the yolks of two, with some fine white pepper and salt; when the whole is well corporated (if not wanted for use immediately) put it in a basin with bards of bacon laid over it; when wanted turn it out, roll it into balls, lengths, or whatever shape you wish, If you like to make yellow balls, as for turtle soup, or for calf’s- head hash, proceed thus :. take two table spoon- fuls of the yeal forcemeat; rub and pound it wellin the mortar, with the yolks of six eggs boiled hard, and one yolk unboiled, to bind them together ; when it looks perfectly smooth take if SAVORY PIES, &c. 249 it out, and roll it into balls; set some water on the fire with salt in it, and when it boils, put in the forcemeat ; if small balls five minutes boil- ing will do, if larger set your time accordingly. If you wish this forcemeat particularly fine, use chicken or rabbit instead of veal, or half veal, and half chicken ; if coarse it may be made with good tender beef, but as it requires to be higher seasoned, a little spice may be added: mind of whatever it is made, let it be well mixed and pounded, without which it cannot be light, or as good as it should be. | PETITS PATES A LA REINE. Take the fillets of one or two roasted chick- ens, which shred and chop very fine, then mix it in some good cream sauce (see Sauces); before you fill the patés make it very hot, and mix ina eason of the yolk of an egg, with a little cream ; be careful to fill your petits patés well, but not to run over. PETITS PATES DE GODIVEAU. Take either veal, chicken, or partridge, make it into a kind of forcemeat in the manner of croquettes (see Chicken), but you may adda few truffles chopped very fine; whencold roll it into small round balls; roll out a plece of puff paste rather thin, cut it about an inch and half square ; egg one square a little, on which lay a ball of forcemeat, and another square of paste over it to meet the bottom one, when both are joined ; with a plain round cutter, trim off the corners, eg them, make a hole in the-top and bake them in a moderately hot oven. Scrape off the bottom before you serve them. PET:T$§ 250 SAVORY RIES, &c. PETITS PATES AUX LEGUMES, OR WITH VEGETABLES. . Cut half a dozen cabbage lettuces in squares, having well washed them, stew them gently in clarified butter, drain them on a sieve, and stew them again in good consommé; some young peas stewed, cucumbers, celery, mushrooms, and truffles (if you have them), cut square and stew them as before directed. Having put the whole on.a sieve to drain off the liquor that might remain, toss: them in good béchamelle sauce; make it very hot, put in a leason of the yolk of an egg with a little cream; a very little sugar and salt; and fill your petits patés. PETITS PATES OF PHEASANTS AND ,TRUFFLES. Mince the breast of a pheasant very fine that has been roasted (or you may sauté the breast of a pheasant and mince it), mince also some stew- ed truffles; mix them in a good strong butter sauce, to which add a little veal glaze, make it very hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice and the yolk of an egg, with a very little cream, and fill your petits patés. PETITS PATEs A L’ESPAGNOLE. Take the fillet off a stale tender neck of mut- ton, cut off all the skin and nerves, ‘shred it as fine as possible, put it in a stewpan with a little good butter and salt, and stir it over a quick fire for four or five minutes till done; then set it on one side, reduce a pint or more of strong consommé to a glaze, put it into butter sauce enough for the patés, mix it well together with a little lemon juice and a few small button mushrooms ; SAVORY PIEs, &c. 251 mushrooms; put it to the minced mutton, make it hot, and fill your petits patés. : PETITS PATES DE RIS DE VEAU, OR OF VEAL SWEETBREADS. ) Stew a couple of sweetbreads between bards of bacon in good beef or veal braize till well done, “then take them from the fire, and let them re- main in the braize till cold; cut them in small squares, toss them in some hot béchamelle sauce, to which put a leason of the yolk of an egg with cream, then fill your petits patés. | PETITS PAT#¥S OF CHICKEN LIVERS WITH TRUFFLES. Having blanched ten or a dozen of fat livers, fry them gently in butter till done, let them cool and mince them in small squares, and some stewed truffles, mince the same; take two or three table spoonfuls of sauce tournée (see Sauces), which boil for two or three minutes with a little truffle liquor, then mix in a bit of butter and some glaze to make it brown and strong, with a squeeze of lemon; stir this with the mince and put it into the petits pAtés. PETITS PATE£S DE QUENELLES DE VEAU, OR OF VEAL FORCEMEAT. Make a forcemeat of veal as directed (see page 248), this roll in very small balls, which blanch in some plain broth till done ;. drain them on a sieve and stew them in consommé enough to cover them till nearly dry; mix them in cream sauce with a few small mushrooms, make it hot _and fill your petits patés, PETITS Hi q Nay i bd | ‘| ; i NG the 4 iy AB “ay AN ‘K a i nie 4d ante Be y Hi Bl 7 bt oe Hi 4 re i i } M4 of i 4b) | SAVORY PIES, &c. PETITS PATES OF STURGEON. Take a piece of sturgeon that has been roast- ed the day before, cut it into small squares, and put them in a stewpan with a few mushrooms minced very fine, to which put a few spoonfuls of cream sauce; before you fill your patcs squeeze in a little lemon juice, with the yolk of one egg mixed with a little cream, and salt if not enough. . \ PETITS PATES OF SOLES. Mince the fillets of soles in small squares and proceed in the same manner as for sturgeon. PETITS PATES OF PIKE. Mix some butter sauce in a small stewpan with a bit of glaze to make it strong: having filleted a pike and sauté it as for entrée, cut it in squares, which put into the sauce with a squeeze of lemon, and a leason of the yolk of an egg, with avery little cream; make it hot, but not boiling, then fill your petits patcés, or you may serve them with cream sauce, as sturgeon and soles. ; PETITS PATES OF LOBSTER. Having a good lobster well boiled take out the meat, cut it in small squares into a stewpan ; the spawn or coral put into a clean marble mortar, with about half as much butter as there is spawn, which pound till it appears. perfectly smooth; scrape it clean out of the mortar with a card, and rub it well through the tammy intoa dish; take a few small spoonfuls of béchamelle sauce, with which mix the lobster spawn pound- ‘ed, make it very hot,’ squeeze in a little lemon juice and a small bit of glaze, which mix toge- ther ; P en OR a ne re SAVOURY PIES, &c. 253 gether; put it to the lobster and fill your petits pités. Cray fish the same. PETITS PATE£S OF OYSTERS. Take five dozen fine oysters, blanch them in their liquor with a little salt, with a colander spoon take them out of the liquor, beard them, put them into another stewpan as you do them; to which pass their hquor through a sieve, and set them on the fire to boil for hal te, uw then put them on a sieve to drain, cut each of them in four bits; put them over the fire ma small pan with a bit of butter; when they have been on till the butter begins to look clear, put to them half béchamelle and half butter sauce, with a small bit of veal glaze; make them very hot, but not boiling, squeeze in some lemon juice, and fill your petits patés. When you blanch the oysters at first, be careful they do not boil too much. PETITS PATES OF SHRIMPS. Take shrimps enough for your petits patés, and after boiling them, picl them well from the shell, tossing them in a small stewpan with a bit of butter over the fire for two minutes, then put in three or four small spoonfuis of butter sauce; pick, wash, and pound four anchovies, with a small bit of butter, rub them through a sieve, mix them with the shrimps and sauce; stir it well, make it hot, and squeeze in some lemon juice, then fill your petits patés. If you like, instead of anchovies, colour the sauce with lob- ster spawn. Q VOLS so nn atl 254 SAVOURY PIES, &e. VOLS AUX VENTS, WITH THE DIFFERERY, THINGS USED TO GARNISH THEM. For a vol au vent make a pound, a pound and a half, or two pounds, of good puff paste ; being very careful in rolling it out, that one part is not thicker than another ; observe, also, that when you have given your paste six turns (which it is usual to give puff paste), roll # very gently, and let it be tolerably thick; butter a baking sheet, on which lay the paste, then with a sharp pointed knife cut it either round, oval, or square, to the fashion of the dish it is intended for ; when cut out, mark it round the edge the same as a common pie; egg the top witheut touching the edge, then with the point of your knife mark round the part you mean to cut off, to take out the inside; bake 1t m a mederate hot oven, be careful not to take it out before it is thorough- ly done; if it should take too much colour, lay a sheet of paper over it; as soon as it is done, take out the inside, gently scrape the bottom, and Jay it on a sheet of paper. Now observe, for a vol au vent, you may put in entrées of chickens, pigeons, partridges, ducks, veal, sweet- breads, with a rago(it, &c. &c. all of which you will find by applying to the respective things already mentioned; for instance, a blanquette of chicken, or veal with mushrooms or forcemeat, a salmis of partridge or wild ducks, a fricassée of rabbits, pigeons 4 l’espagnole, collops of cod fish & la créme, fillets of soles a la béchamelle, and eels a V’espagnole, &c. &c. All these will be found in the different parts of either fish, flesh, or fowl. RAISED SAVOURY PIES, &c. RAISED PIE TO BE SERVED HOT. Make a stiff paste as directed for raised pies, which mix with warm water ; when well mixed and blended together, roll it out tolerable thin ; cut a piece out for the bottom, and two for the sides, according to the shape of the dish, egg the edges of the parts you mean to join and press them well together, so that the joining may not be seen; shape it, garnish it with leaves or iestoons, according to your fancy, fill it nearly to the tep with bran, ege it, and bake it ina moderate het oven; when done of a fine light colour turn out the bran, and set it ready for what yeu intend te put in, which may be either cutlets of mutton stewed with vegetables, par- tridges farced with a brown sauce, chicken cut up with a ragofit in a brown sauce, stewed carp, or eels, &e. A FRENCH PLE RAISED TO BE SERVED COLD. Bone seme chiekens, partridges, or pheasants, more or less, according to the size you intend your pie, and be careful that no particle of bone remains, and that yeu do not break the skin; when the whole is boned, with pepper and salt sprinkled in, fill it well with the forcemeat made of chicken livers (see the first receipt), and lay in long slips of lean ham, truffles, and fat livers ; then close your chickens or whatever they are, by drawing the skin of the neck over the part that is open; raise your pie as in the last re- ceipt, only let the crust be much thicker, and se- cure all the joining parts; when so far done, cut some large thin slices of fat bacon, lay them first at the bottom, thenall round the sides ; a2 make FF heoneereeee SS ee 256 ‘SAVOURY Pins, &c, make what you intend to put in, to the shape of the pie as nearly as you can by filling up every part, that there may be no cavity under the meat, or it may occasion your pie to fall or go out of shape; when all is placed in, cover it well over with fat bacon, and three bay leaves laid on ihe top; for a little gravy put in some hquor in which truffles have been stewed, or some good strong veal or beef braize, egg the edge of the pie round and lay on a good thick cover, joining it well to the edge, that being a great support to the pie, then neatly trim it all round; on the top of the crust form a star of leaves, witha hole in the centre; on the side festcons, leaves or garlands, according to your fancy; egg it lightly over, and bake it in a hot regularly heat- ed oven; ope of a small size will take four hours, a larger accordingly ; be careful on first putting it in that it does not catch and burn, which it is apt to do, and in that case, have plenty of paper ready to lay over it. Before the pie is quite done, set on some good consommé or veal braize, to boil till itis very strong, pour it into the pie as soon as it comes.out of the oven, and set it to cool; ifthe next day it should appear to have taken all the gravy, add more. It had _ better stahd three or four days before it is served; sometimes for a change take off the cover, and in its place sprinkle some clear savoury jelly on the top. This is a good dish for the side table. PORK PIE TO BE SERVED COLD. Make a short paste as for tarts, butter a large deep copper mould, or a stewpan will do, round the bottom and sides, place the paste tolerably thick, Sineiat teakallien acon aoncoesreteneagre ts es SAVOURY PIES, &e. 257 thick, and having stewed the pork with pepper and salt and a little grated nutmeg, place it in the crust with the gravy over it; cover it in with a good crust on the top, garnish it over with leaves, egg it, and bake it in a moderate oven ; when done take it out, letting it stand in the mould till cold; and having stewed some odd bits of pork or bones for gravy, reduce it till it be- comes tolerable strong, turn the pie out of the mould, and pour in the gravy. If you have no bits of pork to make gravy, beef will'do; it must not be cut till thoroughly cold; the odd pieces near the spare-rib, the kidneys, &c. do very well for this pie; the less bone, the better it will cut. PIGEON PIE. Chop some parsley and lemon thyme with a few mushrooms, these stew in a little butter, into which put half a dozen young pigeons, with pepper and salt in their insides, and their legs turned in; stew them for a few minutes and turn them; when they begin to fry, put in consommé enough to cover them, in which let them stew till well done; take them from the fire ‘to cool ; the while make a good puff paste, part of which roll out and place round the edge of the dish; lay the pigeons in with the yolks of four eges boiled hard, and pour over them half the liquor they were stewed in, and alittle pepper and salt; then lay on the top paste, trimming it neatly round, as you would any other pie; on the to form a star of leaves with a hole in the centre, egg it lightly over, and bake it in a moderate oven, taking care that it has not too much colour ; when done, add a little butter sauce to the liquor ra age that 258 SAVOURY PiEs, &¢. that remained from the pigeons, make it very hot and pour it on the pie. Serve it hot, either for a remove or side dish. VENISON PIE, OR PASTY. Take one or two breasts of venison (according to what size you want the pasty), take out all the bones, beat it very flat, and shake some pepper and salt over it, rollit up as tight as possible, and tie it well up with strong packthread. Set the bones and trimmings cut off to stew, with carrots, onions, parsley, one clove of garlic, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and allspice; when stewed till nearly dry, fill it up with half beef or mutton braize and half water, which let boil very gently till the trimmings of venison are done; then put in the roll of venison, lay paper on the top, cover it close, and set it to stew gent- ly with fire under and over. When thoroughly done take it from the fire, and let it remain in the liquor till nearly cold; then make a plain paste of four pounds of fiour and one of butter, as for raised pie; but, instead of mixing it stiff, let it be as soft as possible; take a part of this paste, lay it as thick as you can round the edge of the dish; take the venison, cut off the pack- thread, skin, and lay it in the dish, to which add some of the gravy it was stewed in; cover it over with the remainder of the paste, trim it neatly round, make a hole in the top, egg it, and bake it in a gentle oven for three or four hours ; reduce the liquor it was stewed in till strong, when the paste is done pour it in, and serve it when thoroughly cold. Your pasty can- not be too thick. VENISON 5 SRI SE RR AC MSGI AN a RO SAVOURY PIEs, &c. 259 VENISON PASTY TO BE SERVED HOT. ‘Take a breast and neck of venison, the breast cut in pieces to stew for gravy for the neck; the breast being well stewed and filled with mutton broth, or braize and water, cut the neck of veni- son into cutlets (but do not cut off the fat like mutton cutlets); set them tc stew in the venison liquor till done,.in which Jet them stand till the liquor is nearly cold; have then a puff paste, or a short paste will do, which lay tolerably thick round the edge of a deep pudding dish, lay in the cutlets of venison with some of the gravy they were stewed in, some port wine, sprinkle them over with pepper and salt, egg the bottom paste, and lay on a thick top paste ; trim it as usual (but there needs no ornament on the top), egg it, and bake it a little more than an hour in a moderate oven : reduce the gravy with half a bottle of port wine till very strong, mix ina very little cayenne pepper, and pour it into the pasty just before you, serve it. PLAIN CHICKEN PIE. Cut up a couple of chickens as for a fricassée, which stew in fine herbs like pigeons; finish it in the same manner as pigeon pie. : VEAL PIE. Take a neck, or a nut, cut out of the fillet, which cut in collops, stir it over a quick fire with a bit of butter till it begins to brown, then put water enough to cover it, with a little pepper and salt, in which let it stew till done enough, then take it from the fire toeool. Make the pie like another with puff paste, laying the veal in é Qg4 eee the My ae ae iF; 18 i } h i j y Seas ee eS a ae ne ie a a OTOL ot eta * om sae a = ae ne wha Oe NE IAI VI se 266 SAVOURY PIES, &c. the dish with thin slices of ham between, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, a little pepper and salt, and half the gravy of the veal; cover it over with the paste, trim it neatly, make a star of leaves on the top, egg it, and bake it till well done, then put in the remainder of the gravy, made hot, with a little butter sauce. BEEF STEAK PIE. Cut some tender steaks from the rump, stir thera on the fire with some chopped parsley and thyme anda bit of butter, then add a little water, letting them stew tilltender. Make a short paste, which lay round the dish, place in the steaks, with the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, a little pepper and salt with the gravy; then neatly cover it over with a bit of paste, trim it, and finish it off as usual; if, when baked, it should want gravy, put in some good beef stock. MUTTON PIE. Stew a neck of mutton cut into cutlets in a stewpan with a bit of butter, when they begin to fry put in water enough to cover them, in which let them stew tilldone. Lay a short paste round the dish as usual, put in the cutlets with a few young potatoes, or old ones cut into slices, with pepper and salt, and their gravy, put the paste over them, finish the pie, and bake it like an- other; if gravy is wanting, put some mutton or beef gravy. GIBLET PIE. The giblets being well scalded and washed, put them to stew like mutton cutlets, but longer, till they are very tender. You may either make & SAVOURY Pigs, &c. 261 a puft or short paste to bake them in; wlien you lay them in the dish, add the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, with pepe and salt, and their gravy; forma star of leaves on the top, egg it, and bake it. If you wish it to be particularly good, reduce some consommé with a little Ma- deira wine, and pour it into the pie. The giblets proper are the head, neck, pinions, heart, gizard, feet and liver. RISSOLES A LA D’ARTOISE. Make a kind of forcemeat of chicken, par- tridge, rabbit, for sweetbread, &c. for which see Croquetics, and make a rissole paste (see Pastes), which roll out very thin; the forcemeat make into small round balls, lay them at an equal distance on the paste, lightly egg it, and turn the end over, cut it with the giging iron in- to this form ¢™%, prick each of them, and fry them quickly in good lard, laying them on paper as you do them; serve them very hot with a napkin under them. XN CAMMELON A LA LUXEMBOURG. The same paste and meat, but make it into this form #4, oblong instead of circular. SEA PIE. d Take small pieces of a rump or round of salt beef, bits of pickled pork, veal and mutton cut- lets, a duck cut in pieces, onions and potatoes cut in slices, and season them well with pepper and salt. Make paste with beef suet chopped very fine, some flour, water, and a little salt; knead them well together, eee) the paste, lay it over Q a 262 PASTRY. a large basin, well buttered, then put in the ingredients ; cover it with another paste, tie it in a cloth, and boil it five hours; when done, turn it out of the basin on a large dish, and put in some good gravy. PART IIT. DIRECTIONS FOR DIFFERENT’ KINDS OF PASTES, TARTS, PATTIES, PIES, AND PUDDINGS. Preliminary Hints and Observations. In the first place be careful that your slab or paste table, rolling-pin and cutters are clean and. free from all old paste; and be very particular that the flour and butter are both good. Have « dry sieve always in readiness, in or by the flour tub, so as to use none without sifting it; for though it may appear pure and fine, bran or small particles of stale paste may have fallen into it, therefore sifting is always necessary. Next, be steady and careful in the management of your oven. Puff pastes require a moderately hot oven, not too hot or it will spoil the shape and turn it over ; tart paste, or short crust, requires a slower oven ; petits choux, one still slower; but for rais- ed pies, let it be as hot as for puff paste at first, and well closed, or the pies will fall. So, when you have a dinner where -paste is necessary, en- deavour to make it in the morning; have your oven first heated for the puff paste, which bake first; then let your oven go gradually down and bake PASTRY. 203 bake your pastes in rotation as the heat falls. Savoy biscuits require a cool oven, and gradu- ally raise the heat as your biscuitsare baking. For soufflés, or light puddings, have a gentle even, and contrive so as to have them ready b the time they are wanted, or they will fall. Be careful to keep your oven clean, and that there are no remains of sugar or fat that may have boiled over from any thing you have been bak- ing. Puff Paste. Short Paste. Paste for raised Pies. Sweet Paste for Timbales, Grape Tart. Tartlets, Gateaux Prussiens. —--—— de Cerise, or Cherry Paste for the Borders of Dishes. —— for Rissoles. Almond Paste. Gum Paste. Petits choux garnis. Pain ala Duchesse. Gateaux de Boulogne pralinés, Petits choux a la d’Artoise. ————. 1g Reine. Meringues. Gateaux 4 la Créme, Ramaquins. Apricot Tart. Apple Tart. Currant Tart. Strawberry Tart, or Vol au. Vent. PUFF Cakes. Glazed Chesnut Pies, from the Almanach des Gourmands. Baba. Brioche. Gateaux de Seve, Echaudé. Patés de Genoisse. . Gateaux de Madeleine. ane (e Chocolat. Petits Bouches. Jealousy renversé. Cammelon 4 la Dauphine, Gateaux de Rosquelle. Apple Pie. PASTE. Weigh one pound of flour, lay it in a circle on the slab; in the centre break one egg, put a very little salt, and a small bit of butter; mix all these lightly together, add a little water, mix them again, then more men and so proceed ic Q 1 264 PASTRY. it binds into paste, but do not make it too stiff, nor squeeze it much together, till you find there is water enough, then work it well together, and roll it out on the slab, but not too thin: work a pound of butter on the slab, spread it out to the size of the paste, witha knife cut it off altoge- ther, and lay it on the paste, then double the ends of your paste together to inclose the butter ; then give it one turn thus: roll it out till you just perceive the butter through the paste, turn the end next you half way over, andthe other end over that, roll it once or twice with the rolling- pin, then let it stand; this is called one turn; then in three minutes time turn it again, and so proceed till you have given it six turns; then roll it out and cut it for petits padtcs, or any shape you please; but observe not to put over them too much egg, as that will preyent them rising; as soon as they are baked, take them off the sheet, lay them on paper, and when cold, scrape the bottoms, neatly cut out the insides ready for whatever you mean to put into them. “SHORT PASTE FOR TARTS. Lay one pound of flour on the slab; in the centre put half a pound of butter, two eggs, a very little salt and a little water, mix them light- ly together, and add more water, till you find it bind, mix it on the slab a little, and give it two turns; it then is ready for use. PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. _ To four pounds of flour, put one of butter, a little salt, mix these together, put in water a lit- tle at a time; but be careful not to put too much, as PASTRY. 965 sis this paste must be made as stiff as possible ; when well mixed, give it two or three turns, roll it and cut it out to the shape you want for your pie. Sometimes the butter is melted in warm water, andso mixed with the flour, then it will not take se much water: and your paste will stand better, but as yeu work your paste, when you find it get too celd, warm ita little: the first me- thod is preferable if meant to be eaten. SWEET PASTE FOR TIMBALES. Work together one pound of flour with half a pound of fine powder sugar, three whole eggs, two yolks and about three ounces of butter; when well mixed into a paste, butter a scull shape, or croquante mould, on the outside roll the paste out, and lay it on the mould, trim off the pieces which are useless, egg it and prick it well all over; then setit on a baking-sheet with a little burning charcoal under the mould, bake it ina moderate oven, and be careful to keep it of a light colour. Some of the same paste must like- wise be baked on a tart-pan to match this mould, so the prepared fruit whatever it is, when the bottom paste is baked and turned out of the tin, is put into it, and the scull shape over it. This paste will likewise serve to cnt out ornaments ; and will be found eatable, which very few orna- ments are. PASTE FOR BORDERS TO DISHES. Mix the yolks of two eggs, a very small bit of butter and a little salt, with flour enough to make a stiff paste; work it well, roll it out and cut it to the depth and size you want your border: if for a 266 PASTRY. a large dish, use more eggs; before it is put into the dish, ege the edge you mean to stick, fix it firm, and be careful that you do not pull it away, and when fixed, pinch it allround; this is mostly used for shallow dishes, and it looks very well for a soufilé instead of a deep dish. Put it in the oven to harden, before it is served. PASTE FOR RISSOLES. Lay en the slab two handfuls of flour, in the centre of which break two whole eggs, and one volk; a bit of butter, salt, and two or three spoonfuls of milk, mix these well together, and roll it outas thin as possible, and work it over your hands to make it very thin; then lay it out, roll your prepared meat into balls as for cro- quettes, lay them ina line upon the paste, turn it over them; and with a giging iron, cut them in a half circle, (like sweet meat puffs or turnovers) prick a hole in each, and fry them in good hot lard; this paste is mostly used for rissoles a la d’Artoise and cammelon a la Luxembourg, ALMOND PASTE. Blanch and pick a pound of the best almonds into a basin of spring water, in which let them stand for two days, changing the water at times; then drain them ona sieve, dry them well ina clean cloth, and pound them in a mortar for three or four hours, in short, till they are beaten toa paste: whenever they appear oily, squeeze in a little lemon juice or the white of an egg; have ready on the fire in a sugar pan a pound of the best refined sugar clarified, and when reduced to the degree called pearl boiling, put in the al- monds Sos Ns PASLRY. 967 monds and continue stirring them over the fire | they adhere together in a paste, then put. ine minutes, and if they appear oily, put ina very little spring water; when well beaten together, sift some powder sugar on a sheet of writing pa- per, in which roll up your paste and let it stand for afew days. ‘Before you use it work it in the mortar fora short time, then roll it out very thin on a sheet of writing paper laid on the slab, and cut it theshape you want it. To prevent it sticking, use fine powder sugar. And the white of an egg beaten up with powder sugar, must be used to stick it together; a very slow oven is re- quired to bake it, | GUM PASTE. Set a pound of gum dragon in a basin, with warm water enough to cover an inch above the gum; set this in a warm closet for four and twenty hours, have a new tammy ready laid over a dish, spread it on it, and squeeze as much through as you can at first, then open the tammy, spread the gum out again, and then squeeze it, which repeat till the whole is through. ‘Then lay it on the slab, work it well with your hand, putting in nearly the juice ofa lemon anda pound of the best double refined powder sugar, by de- grees as you work it; but before you have put in the whole pound of sugar, begin to add some of the best starch powder; blend them well toge- ther, till the paste begins to take an impression, then roll 1¢ in a cloth, and let it standin a dam place for a week or ten days, (for it is the ue : or an Sg of apres ee. TT SS einer itaaarmonaiies — “4 x i iH f 268 PASTRY. for keeping,) work it with powder, and you will find it cut and mould to any shape you please, and set it in a dry place when you want to har- den it. If you wish to colour it, for red use co- chineal or carmine; for blue or violet colour, in- digo; for yellow, saffron; green, the juice of beet leaves scalded over the fire, the thick part mix with the paste. When you put in colours, blind them well, and be careful that the colour is good. 5 _ PETITS CHOUX GARNIS. Weigh a quarter of a pound of butter, put it in a stewpan, to which put a little more than half a pint of milk, a little bit of sugar and lemon peel, set this on the fire with a wooden spoon in it, and when it boils take it from the fire and quickly mix in a quarter of a pound of flour, when it becomes paste, stir it over the fire for two minutes longer, then break in (mixing one at a time) four eggs; when they are well mixed, put ina very little salt and some finely pounded ratafia biscuits; beat it up for two minutes, then drop it on a baking sheet or platform, and bake itina gentle oven. .This is called petits choux garnis; because it is garnished by cutting each ef them open, and putting in any sweetmeat you please. x PAIN A LA DUCHESSE. This is another petit chou paste, made much in the same manner; the only difference is in the mixing it. When you weigh the flour put in as much as your four fingers can hold, more than a quarter of a pound; flour one corner of the table, PASTRY. 969 table, on which drop them, roll them in lengths about the size of your finger, and lay them on a baking sheet; these need have no egg over them, a quarter of a pound makes three dozen. ‘These are likewise cut open and garnished with sweetmeats. GATEAUX DE BOULOGNE PRALINE&S. Make these in the same manner as the petits choux, but drop them double the size, sprinkle them over with sweet almonds chopped, garnish them with sweetmeats. ey PETITS CHOUX A LA D’ARTOISE, Begin these with weighing and boiling, as petits choux garnis, then put in (one at a time) three eggs, and the yolks of three, and, when well mixed, a little pounded ratafia and orange flower, ‘with a gill of warm cream ; mix the whole well to- gether, drop it in lengths about the size of your finger, egg it, and put it in the oven; when nearly done sift some powdered sugar over it, and when quite done hold a red hot shovel over it to glaze it; this must be served very hot. PETITS CHOUX ALA REINE. This is mixed and served to table like the last,, but instead of dropping them long drop them round, and do not glaze them. PETITS CHOUX MERINGUES. Make some gateaux de boulogne without al- monds; when baked cut off the tops and fill them with Italienne cream (see Creams), then beat up the whites of six eggs to a strong froth, and put in powder sugar enough to. make them very smooth; drop them on the petits choux, sift : some 970 PASTRY. some sugar over them, bake them in a slow oven of a light colour, and serve them hot to table. x GATEAUX A LA CREME. ‘Cover two dozen small tartlet pans with a thin tart paste, which fill with petits choux paste, in the same manner as a la d’Artoise. Observe not to put so much sugar, entirely leave out the lemon peel, ratafia, and orange flower, but pour more thick cream and a little salt, egg them well, bake them, and serve them hot. RAMAQUINS. Weigh a quarter of a pound of butter and flour as for petits choux, but put nothing into the milk and butter; when the flour is well mixed and stirred on the fire break in three eggs, one ata time, and three yolks, beat them for a minute, put in a little cream, some Parmesan cheese grated, and a yery little pepper and salt; drop them the same as petits choux a la reine, egg them, bake them, and be careful to serve them very hot. | APRICOT TART. Peel and cut the apricots in half, break the stone and toss the kernel in a basin with the apri- cots, over which shake some fine sugar ; butter a tart pan, over which lay a thin piece of short paste, egg it, and lay your apricots in regular order in it, over which lay another thin paste; close them both well together, and make a hole in the top, crimp it round as for tarts in general, ege it, and shake some powder sugar over it; bake it in a moderate oven. Peach tart the same. APPLE TART. Having peeled your apples, core and cut them 5 y 2 LR PASTRY. 27k in slices into a basin with powder sugar over them, then proceed as for an apricot tart; serve it hot. CURRANT TART. Pick and wash the currants (as they are some- times gritty), mix with them plenty of sugar, and proceed as for other tarts. If they are green currants be careful to pick both ends, and scald them before they are used. ‘i STRAWBERRY TART, OR VOL AU VENT. Take two quarts of the best searlet strawber- ries, pick and put them into a basin, then add to them half a pint ofcold thick clarified sugar, and the same quantity of Madeira wine, with the juice of two or three lemons; mix these well together without breaking the strawberries, and put them into the vol au vent, or crust you have prepared for them ; be careful to keep theny very cool. . - GRAPE TART. For this tart chuse the youngest grapes, before the stone is formed, which pick and scald like currants or gooseberries; then proceed as for other tarts, but put more sugar. TARTLETS, Take two or three dozen small tartlet pans, which cover with a thin short paste, then put into them preserved cherries chopped, apricot jam, or currant jelly, in short any sweetmeat you please; then shred some of the paste very fine, and neatly cross over them ; there are moulds for this purpose, which do them much neater and quicker ; when they are all done egg them, lay : R them : ; | \ 1 i Se a ee pera ee >— —~* 972 PASTRY. them on a baking sheet, and-bake them in a quick oven ; serve them cold. GATEAUX PRUSSIENS. Having a pound of tart paste well made, cut it in half, and roll it out very thin, on which drop five or six bits of sweetmeats, gently egg them round and turn the end of the paste over them ; gently press them together, then with the gigging iron cut the whole length of the paste, and di- vide each with the same; prick and egg them, and bake them in a quick oven; take care that the baking sheet is well buttered. GATEAUX DE CERISES, OR CHERRY CAKES. Chop some preserved cherries, do them in the manner of the last receipt; but when you have turned the ends of the paste over, with the giging iron, cut them in a half circle; they look like small turnovers. GLAZED CHESNUT PIES. [The following receipt of glazed chesnut pies is from the Alma- nach des Gourmands ; it does very well for a large entertain- ment]. The interior of the pies is composed of seve- ral layers of whole chesnuts glazed with orange flowers; they are covered with an apple jelly, so like the fine clear meat jelly that the illusion lasts even after opening it, and-the little fillets of lemon peel filling the parts between the ches- nuts, gives to the tout ensemble a most exquisite flavour and perfume. The crust, made of a paste of powdered sweet almonds (see Almond Paste), is not only excellent to the taste, but may be kept a considerable time; in fine, it is almost as good dry as moist. This PASTRY. 273 BABA. This is a kind of bread cake, which requires great care and attention. Take three pounds of flour, one quarter of which put apart and mix with a gill of good yeast and a little warm water till it becomes dough, which cover close in a stewpan and set it by the fire to rise; then butter -a couple of good copper moulds, and when you see the dough rise and nearly ready, form your flour into a circle on the table (the slab is too cold), in the centre of which put half an ounce of salt, one of sugar, one pound and a half of butter and twelve eggs, with a table-spoonful of saffron; mix the butter and eggs well together, then the flour, and when all is mixed spread it out, and the dough (which has been rising) put upon it, which mix in by cutting and turning it over with your hands; when the yeast is nearly mixed in, put in two pounds of raisins well ston- ed, a few at a time; then put it into the buttered mould, which must not be above three parts full, and set it in a warm place to rise very gently ; when raised to the top of the mould bake it ina tolerably hot oven, a brick oven is the best. _ BRIOCHE. For this take two pounds of flour, a quarter of which prepare with yeast, as directed in the last receipt. When it is risen prepare your flour on the table the same, in the centre of which puta little less salt and sugar, eight eggs, and one pound of butter; then proceed to mix it the same as baba, but without saffron or raisins: when mixed shake some flour over a clean cloth, in which set it, and cover it up to rise in a warm. R 2 place ayy Hela 7 By et ie ey | Bt: | ? Be. eH pei i an ae i 3 274 PASTRY. lace (but be careful it is not too warm, or it will melt the butter); when raised enough turn it out of the cloth on the table; butter a couple. of round or oval -moulds for the purpose, cut the paste in half, and put each halfina mould, mark it round with a knife, egg it well, and bake it in a moderately hot oven. : GATEAUX-DE SEVE. Make the same kind of paste as for a brioche, but instead of baking it in moulds, roll it about the thickness of your finger and twice the length ; put three together, plat them, and they will form small twists, which egg and bake in a mo- derately hot oven. ECHAUDE. Lay one pound and a half of flour in a circle on the slab, in the centre of which put half a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and twelve eggs; mix the butter and eggs well toge- ther, then the flour; begin then to beat it well, cut it cross ways with your hands, rub it well on the slab, and see that it is perfectly smooth; when worked for nearly an hour put it in a dish ina cold place, to stand till the next day, then turn it again on the slab, cut it in small square pieces about an inch each way; lay these on a dish with flour, to prevent them from sticking; the while have a large pan of boiling water by the side of the stove, in which put your échaudé; ina mi- nute they will rise to the top; when they have been in five minutes try if they are done, if get- ting rather hard in the centre they are enough, then toss them in another pan of cold water for six @ | q 3 B PASTRY. ~ UPNANILG, “Jo75 EMITS six hours, and afterwards lay them on sieves to drain; the next day, or the day after, put them in a hot oven, keep it closely shut, and bake them twenty minutes. PATES DE GENOISSE. Weigh three quarters of a pound of flour on the slab, put in the centre half'a pound of pow- der sugar, the same of butter, a little grated le- mon peel and orange flower water, with three whole eggs, and the yolks of two, mix them all well together; and having a platform well buttered, spread it upon it, then do it over with an egg and brush, bake itin a gentle oven, and when done cut it in shapes thus o . ) GATEAUX DE MADELEINE. Put into a large basin one pound of flour, three quarters of powder sugar, the same of butter, with a little grated lemon peel; witha wooden spoon mix the butter well with the other ingredients; then mix in, one at a time, seven or eight eggs; when the whole of the eggs are in, beat it well till it looks likea cream. Have some small moulds of different shapes well but- tered, and in these drop your batter: bake them in a moderate oven. GATEAUX DE CHOCOLAT. Make the same kind of batter as for gateaux de Madeleine, in which put grated chocolate, more or less, and bake it in small moulds. PETITES BOUCHES. These are made with puff paste; roll it out, but not very thin, then with either a plain or fluted cutter, cut out the petites bouches, which R 3 lay ee PASTRY. lay on a oaking sheet; before you put them into the oven, mark them in the centre with a small round cutter ; and when they begin to take a co- lour, sift some fine sugar over them; leave them in the oven a few minutes longer, then glaze them with a red-hot shovel. Cut out the part you marked, into which put currant jelly and apricot jam. JALOUSIE RENVERSEE. Cut pieces of puff paste about the length and thickness of your finger, lay them regularly ona baking sheet, at a good distance from each other, and set them in a brisk oven; when you see they have turned over, and begin to take colour, sift some powder sugar over them, and in a minute glaze them over with the red-hot shovel, then lay them on paper; the side which is not glazed spread over with apricot jam(or any other sweet- meat), and stick two together. GATEAUX DE ROSQUELLE. Take half a pound of sweet almonds, with a few bitter ones, blanch and pick them, then pound them very fine, and when nearly pounded enough, put in about half a pound of Lisbon sugar by degrees; when the whole is well blend- ed, take it out of the mortar. Then have some puff paste rolled out very thin, roll out your al- monds in lengths, as long as the paste is broad, which lay upon the paste, and turn the end over, lightly egg it to join it together; then with the gigging iron cut it across, each about three inches long; put them in the oven, and when nearly done glaze them the same as other pastry. Make eee = sinter pagan Pinsent PED eheL LIM ie BI rinse enim Rt eet dba imaneh Sonora ch Alisha ih ey PASTRY. OTT APPLE PIE. Make a short paste, lay it rather thick round the edge of the dish, at the bottom of which lay a few cloves, some chopped lemon peel, and-a little mace: your apples being peeled, cored, and quartered, lay half of them in the dish, then some brown sugar, and two quarters of a quince ; put the remainder of the apples with two or three pieces more of quince, and cover them over with sugar, a small bit of butter in three or four places, and a little water, then lay on the upper paste, and bake it in a moderate oven. Soak your apples well that they may take the redness of the quince; if you chuse, when the pie has been out of the oven a few minutes, beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of thick cream, carefully lit up the cover and pour it over the apples. Pear pie is made in the same manner, leaving out the quince; or instead of short paste use puff: but for these plain pies I think short paste is preferable. SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. Bread Pudding boiled, with or without Currants. Batter Pudding. Suet Pudding, Soufflé ala Reine. ———- 4 |’Italienne, . — of Rice. ———-— Potatoe. An Omelette Soufflé. [From the Almanach des Gourmands.] Souffiés au Fromage, or Cheese Soufilé. Bread Pudding baked, with or with out Currants, Rn 4A Yorkshire Pudding. German Pudding. Rice Pudding. Vermicelli Pudding, Hasty Pudding. Apple Pudding. Cumberland 4 278 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. Cumberland Pudding. Apple en Compote. Plum Pudding. Chartreux de Pommes. Apple Dumplings. Charlotte of Apples. Suet Dumplings. Cherries in a Timbale. Yeast. Dumplings. Apricots in a Timbale. Hard Dumplings. ———-- Marmalade. Raspberry, or Currant Dump- Currants in a ‘Timbale. lings. Gooseberries in an open Tart, Pancakes a la Frangaise. with or without Cream. a l’Italienne. Gooseberry Fool, or Goose- plain. berries with Cream. Apple Fritters. Peaches in a Compote. ——-~- ala Turque. —— in a Timbale. ——- 4 la Frangipane. Pines in a Compote. ——- 4la None. Pears stewed. ——- Maringie. Quinces stewed. —-— en Miroton. ———--—-~ ina Marmalade. SOUFFLE A LA REINE. Cut the crumb of two French rolls in thin slices into a stewpan, to which put a few ratifia biscuits, some loaf sugar, a thin rind of lemon peel, and three ounces of butter ; over the whole pour a pint of boiling milk, cover it close, and let it simmer by the side of the stove till the bread has imbibed the whole of the milk; then stir it well together with a wooden spoon, and put in the yolks of six eggs (the whites put carefully in a basin), when well mixed together, rub the whole through the tammy, adding as you rub it, half a pint of thick boiling cream, and when the whole is entirely through, put it again intoa stewpan ; half an hour before dinner beat up the six whites of eges, with three in addition, to a strong and smooth froth, then just warm your batter over a slow fire, and mix the egg in by degrees, and a little orange flower water; put it out into a deep dish, sift some powder sugar over ' iy. SOUPFLES AND PUDDINGS. 279 it, and bake it ina gentle oven; or make a bor- 7 ° ° Fy ° der with paste as directed (see Pastes), which will look much better. SOUFFLE A L’ITALIENNE. Put in a stewpan four ounces of flour, three of butter and ratafia, with a thin rind of lemon, a little orange flour, and one egg; mix them toge- ther, and soften it with a pint of milk, set it on the fire just to boil, if very thick put a little more milk, mix in the yolks of seven eggs (taking care of the whites), rub it through the tammy, adding half a pint of cream, and finishing it the same as soufilé a la reine. SOUFFLE OF RICE. Set two table-spoonfuls of blanched rice on the fire with a little lemon peel, loaf sugar, and a bit of butter, put in just milk enough to cover it, letting it stew very gently till done, adding more milk as you see occasion; when done take out the lemon peel, and put in a little pounded ‘ratafia and orange flower, with the yolks of five eggs, and half a pint of thick cream, mix the whole well together: when wanted beat the whites with the addition of four, and finish it the same as othef souffiés. POTATOE SOUFFLE. Make this in all respects like an Italienne soufilé, but instead of flour use potatoe flour, of which take only two ounces, and sometimes, for achange, bake it in paper cases. AN 280 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. AN OMELETTE SOUFFLE, WITH THE PULP OR POWDER OF CHESNUTS. [From the Almanach des Gourmands. ] Put two ounces of this powder into a skillet, then add two yolks of new laid eggs, and dilute the whole with a little cream, milk, or even water; when this is done, and the ingredients well mixed, leaving no lumps, add a bit of ex- cellent fresh butter, the size of an egg, and an equal quantity of powdered sugar, then put the skillet on the fire, and keep stirring the con- tents; when the eream is fixed, and thick enough to adhere to the spoon, let it bubble up once or twice, and take it from the fire; then add a third white of an egg to those you had already set aside, and whip them to the consistency of snow. Then amalgamate the whipped whites of eggs and the cream, stirring them with a light and equal hand; pour the contents into a deep dish, sifted,over with double refined sugar, and place the dish on a stove, with fire over itas wellas un- der, and in a quarter of an hour the cream will rise like an omelette soufflé; as soon as it rises about four inches it is fit to serve up. Fecula of potatoes may be used instead of that of chesnuts, but in all respects it is much inferior: it is true that the latter is not so light, but prepared in this manner renders it easy of digestion. SOUFFLZ AU FROMAGE, OR CHEESE SOUFFLE. Take three ounces of flour and two of butter, put them in a stewpan with one egg, mix them together with nearly a pint of milk, and set it on the fire till it begins to boil, if too thick add a little SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 98t a little more milk; then break in the yolks of five eggs, and a gill of thick cream; when these are well mixed, stir in gently about two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a very little pepper and salt: beat the whites of the eggs, with the addition of three, and finish it as di- rected before for soufflés. When this light bat- ter is put in paper cases, it is called fondues au fromage. BREAD PUDDING BAKED. Proceed with it as directed for soufflé a la reine, only leaving out the ratafia and orange flower ; if you like put in a few currants. BREAD PUDDING BOILED. | Cut the crumb of a couple or three French rolls in squares, over which pour boiling milk enough to cover it, a small bit of butter, the thin rind of a lemon, and sugar; let these stand by the side of the stove till the bread has im- bibed the milk, then work it up with a wooden spoon, and if too thick add more milk; beat up six eggs in a basin, which mix in with your bread, and a little grated nutmeg: butter a ba- sin well, into which put your pudding, tie it up tight, and boil it two hours: pour over it white wine sauce. Be careful that the water boils be- fore the pudding is put in. i | / | BATTER PUDDING. Take six spoonfuls of flour, put them in a stewpan, with about a tea spoonful of salt and half a nutmeg grated; mix this up with about a pint and a half of new milk, then beat up in a basin six eggs, which stir well into the ee ave — 282 SOUFFLESs AND PUDDINGS. have a basin or mould well buttered, pour it in, tie it up tight with a cloth, and boil it two hours and a half; serve it with wine sauce. SUET PUDDING. Put six spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, with a litthe grated nutmeg and ginger, and a tea spoonful of salt, to which put a pound and a half of beef suet chopped fine; when these are stirred together, mix in a quart of milk and six eges, well beaten together; butter a basin and shake some flour round it, into which put your batter, and boil it two hours and a half or three hours. You may send some good strong beef eravy in a boat with this pudding. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Shake some good dripping round a shallow copper pan, into which put a batter as for a bat- ter pudding, but let it be a little stiffer; set it under the meat till done and well browned: be- fore you serve it.put it over a stove for a few mi- nutes, in order to brown the under part, then sprinkle.a little salt over it, cut it in squares, and serve it to table. GERMAN PUDDING. Take a large dish (such as you would serve a joint of meat in), butter it all over, lay on it a short paste rolled out very thin, and trim it off round the edge; into which put a batter made much in the same way as batter pudding, except mixing in three table spoonfuls of moist sugar with your flour, and instead of: six eggs put four whole ones and three yolks, with two glasses of brandy; when all is mixed together, pour it inte the SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 2983 the paste, and bake it in a moderate oven. It will puff up very much before it is done. RICE PUDDING. Having picked and blanched a quarter of a pound of rice, put it ina stewpan, witha bit of cinnamon, lemon peel, and a quart of boiling milk ; let it stew very gently, stirring it at times, till it is very thick, then take out the cinnamon and lemon peel, put in half a pint of cream and six eggs, beaten up with sugar to your palate, _ and half a nutmeg grated; beat this up together, and pour it into a buttered dish; bake it ina gen- tle oven. Or you may put the same quantity of rice on to stew, and when thick take out the cin- namon and lemon peel, and mix in nearly a pint of thick cream, with sugar to your palate, a lit- tle grated nutmeg, and orange flower or rose water; pour this ina dish, over which sift some powder sugar, and glaze it with the hot shovel or salamander. VERMICELLI PUDDING. © Blanch a quarter of a pound of vermicelli for half a minute, and set it on to stew very gently, in the same manner as rice; there must be three whole eggs and four yolks beaten up with sugar, as for rice pudding. HASTY. PUDDING. Boil a stick of cinnamon in three pints of milk ; take some of the milk, into which beat up the yolks of four eggs, and mix it with the other milk; then take a hair sieve of flour in one hand, sift it gently into the milk, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it begins to be thick; continue stirring S84 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. stirring it, and set it on the fire to boil; take out the cinnamon and pour it into the dish, stick pieces of butter about it, and serve it to table. If you wish to make it still better, put in a pint of good cream, APPLE PUDDING. Lay a puff paste over your dish, but double round the edge; peel and core a dozen ni wre put them into a stewpan, with a little water, to stew toa thick pulp, then beat them well, stir in half a pound of powder sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the yolks of eight eggs well beaten, mix it, well together, and “put it out into the paste; bake it in a gentle oven, and when done sift some sugar over it, and glaze it with the sa- Jamander. CUMBERLAND PUDDING. _ Take of flour, suet, raisins, currants, apples chopped, of each six ounces, a little nutmeg grated, a very little salt, and six eggs beaten up with six ounces of sugar; mix them well toge- ther, and boil them for two hours and a half; serve it with white wine or brandy sauce over it. PLUM PUDDING. Put inte a large pan or basin raisins, currants, and suet chopped, of each a pound, a little salt, nearly a nutmeg grated, and two ounces of pow- der sugar ; then beat up six eges, which put in, and a pint of new milk; sift your flour gently in, mixing it allthe time; when the whole is well stirred together, boil it for six hours; fora larger quantity, ” of course, rise in proportion : send bran idy lor sauce 1n a boat, APPLE, SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 985 APPLE DUMPLINGS. Peel a dozen large apples with an apple scoop, drive out the cores, in the place of which put apricot jam, currant jelly, or preserved cherries ; have a paste made like short paste for tarts, but omit the eggs; this you must roll out, and cut in pieces large enough to hold the apple, which enclose in the paste, keeping all of an equal thickness; have a large saucepan of water boiling on the fire, into which put your dump- lings without tying them in a cloth, and let them boil half an hour; with a colander spoon place them on a sieve to drain, and serve them with melted butter in a boat. SUET DUMPLINGS. This batter is made the same as for suet pud- ding, but much thicker; your cloth must be wet, shake it dl over with flour, and tie up in several parts of the cloth, as much as it will hold, two. or three spoonfuls of the batter. But a better way is, to make your batter as usual, have some small white tea-cups well buttered, into which put your batter, tie it in cloths, and boil it an hour: these might more properly be called small puddings. YEAST DUMPLINGS. Prepare a dough the same as for bread, set it by the fire covered up in a pan for half an hour to rise; the while set a large saucepan of boiling water on the fire, roll up your dough in balls about the size of an egg; and while the water is boiling, put them in, keep them continually boil- ing for ten minutes, at which time take them out * ss & and — 986 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. and serve them immediately, with wine sauce over them. If the dough is sent from the baker’s it will answer the same purpose. HARD DUMPLINGS. Make a paste with flour, water, salt, and a small bit of butter, make it into balls about the size of a turkey’s egg: boil them three quarters of an hour in a pot with a piece of beef; serve them with the meat, and melted butter over them. RASPBERRY, OR CURRANT DUMPLINGS. Take a piece of paste, such as you would make for apple dumplings, roll it out rather thin, take raspberry jam, currant jelly, or any other sweet- meat; spread it over your paste, and roll it up; rojl it in a cloth, and tie it at each end; let it boil an hour. These are in general called rolled puddings. PANCAKES A LA FRANCOISE. Put in a basin or stewpan nearly a quarter of a pound of flour, a table spoonful of pounded ratafia, a thin rind of lemon, and about two ounces of sugar pounded: then mix in, one at atime, three whole eggs, and the yolks of three ; when well mixed put in a little milk, half a pint of cream, witha little orange flower water, beat your batter well, and let it be just the thickness of good thick cream. When you fry the pancakes make them very thin, use good clarified butter, which put into your pan and pour it off again, so that none remain at the bottom of the pan, for it would make the pancakes greasy ; when you have done frying, leave a table spoonful of the batter in SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 987 in the stewpan, to which put a little pounded ra- tafia, sugar, orange flower, and the yolk of an egg, which mix up withcream ; set it on the fire, and when it boils put it ina boat for sauce to the pancakes. PANCAKES 1 L’ITALIENNE. Let your pancakes be made as the last, when fried, lay them open on a clean dresser, spread them over with an Italienne cream (see Cream) roll them up and lay them in order on your dish. Observe to put the brown side outwards. PLAIN PANCAKES, , . Six spoonfuls of flour must be put into a basin, with a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, and, if you like, sugar ; but the pancakes will be much lighter by not mixing sugar with the batter; take a quart of milk, half of which mix in. with your flour, the other half beat up with six eggs; mix it together, beat it well up, then add a little more milk, but be careful not to make the batter too thin. Then fry them with a bit of butter in the pan, the same as pancakes in general, laying sugar between each as you fry them. APPLE FRITTERS. There are several ways of making these like many other things. However two of the best are thus; take a dozen good apples, each of which cut in three slices, pierce out the cores with a cutter, and neatly cut off the rind, when done, put them in a basin with some powder sugar over them, to stand for five or six hours. When _ the first course is served, have some lard very hot, ready on the fire; take your apples out of the 288 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. the sugar, roll them in flour and fry them till done, then lay them on paper. Another way is thus; when your apples are prepared as directed at the begining of this receipt, instead of rolling them in flour, dip them in thick batter, fry them and place in a miroton round your dish. The first method I think preferable. \ APPLES A LA TURQUE, Take eight or ten norpareils, pierce out the cores, peel and neatly trim them round; set on the fire a thin.syrup of clarified sugar with the juice of half a lemon, into which put the apples, cover them close and let them simmer very gently, mind to turn them when done on one side; when thoroughly done through, take them out and lay them on a dish with a wet paperoverthem. Peel and core a dozen or more good baking apples ; set them over the fire to stew with some clarified sugar and a small bit of lemon peel, when soft, stir them well with a wooden spoon, and put ina spoonful of apricot jam ; stir it at times till the jam is mixed, and your apples thicken, then rub the whole through a tammy into a dish. Your apples being so far ready, take the dish you mean to serve them on, to which put a deep bor- der of paste (see Pasties), and bake it in a gen- tle oven to harden it, then at the bottom of the dish put a layer of the purée of apples over which put the whole apples you stewed, and fill each of the. holes where the cores were, with dried cherries or apricot jam; then cover your apples in with the remainder of the purée of ap- ples; beat up the whites of six eggs to a froth, and add powder sugar to them till they appear quite SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 989 quite smooth: your apples being made warm lay the white of egg over them, smooth it neatly over and sift some powder sugar over it; colour itina gentle oven. If you do not makea paste border, bake them ina deep dish. APPLES A LA FRANGIPANE. Peel and core a dozen apples, slice them into a deep dish, over which shake some powder su- gar, thinly spread it over with apricot jam, and very thin slices of fresh butter over that; take-. then an ounce of potatoe flour, or arrow-root (but it is not so good), and mix it with a pint of cream, asmall bit of butter, and sugar enough to sweeten it; stir it over the fire till it begins to boil; then lay it over your apples and bake it in a moderate oven. Jf your arrow-root should be too thick, add a little milk to it, so that it will just pour out of the stewpan. POMMES A LA NONE. Having prepared a dozen and a half of non- pareils in sugar, as for pommes 4 la turque, let them be cold, have a tart paste, roll it out thin, and with the gigging iron cut itin lengths of about a foot and half, which twine around the apples, fill them with preserved cherries and powder sugar, close them, egg them over, and bake them ina moderate oven. Serve them hot to table. | APPLE MERINGUE. Make a timbale paste (see Paste), lay it in a round or oval tart pan (according to the size of your dish), egg it, prick it all over and bake it, put into it a purée of apples as directed for pom- 8 mes ~ 290 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. mes 4 la turque, and finish it with white of egg in the same manner; serve it hot. MIROTON OF APPLES. ‘Take a dozen and a half of good apples, witha scoop take out the cores, peel them, neatly trim them round, then cut them in very thin slices, have a pan ready to the size of the dish, which. butter and spread some apricot jam on the bot- tom ; place your apples over one another in a miroton round the pan, and fill up the centre with the odd bits; spread it over with jam and sugar over it, then lay another circle of apples the re- verse way to the first row, and so proceed till you have laid five or six rows; spread it over with jam, and bake it ina moderate oven; when anne, carefully turn it on a dish, and serve it 1ot. APPLES IN A COMPOTE. Cut a dozen nonpareils in half, take out the cores and trim off the rind; when this is done, have some thin clarified sugar on the fire with the juice of half a lemon squeezed in; put your ap- ples in and let them simmer very gently by the side of the stove; when thoroughly done, take them out and lay a wet paper over them, then reduce the sugar to a tolerable thickness, with which mix two table-spoonfuls of apricot jam ; make your apples hot, place them neatly on the dish, and pour the sirup over them. If you like put in some lemon pee) minced very fine; but it it better omitted. A CHARTREUSE OF APPLES. Prepare your apples and place them in a dish like SOUFFLE¥s AND PUDDINGS. 291 iike pommes a la turque in a purée of apples; then peel and quarter a dozen nonpareils; take out the cores and neatly trim them; stew them gently in sugar as for a compote; then in two separate pans melt some currant jelly and apri- cot jam; with a fork take the quarters, and dip one in currant jelly, the next in apricot jam, and garnish them over the apples according to your fancy; set them to warm very gently, too hiot, it will spoil the look of your apples. CHARLOTTE OF APPLES. Stew a dozen apples and make a purée in the manner of apples a la turque; butter a plain’ round or oval mould, take a new loaf, the crumb of which cut in thin slices about two inches broad and the depth of your mould, and cut two round pieces, one for the top and the other for the bottom of the mould. Then begin by dipping the round piece in good clarified butter, lay it at the bottom, the others place on the side one against another, till they meet all round; lay some purée of apples at the bottom, and five or six of the stewed in the purée; some of the holes fill with preserved cherries, and some with apricot jam; then cover up those apples with some of the purée, and place another layer of stewed apples, which treat in the same manner; dip the other round piece of crumb in butter, lay it on the top, and close your apples well in, with pieces of crumb, if the top piece should not well cover them, Bake them nearly an hour and carefully turn your charlotte out, when it is wanted. s 2 CHERRIES ; q \ 1% 1s 1 ac aera ane 292 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. CHERRIES IN A TIMBALE. Make a paste for a timbale as (see Pasties), then take two pounds of good red fleshy cher- ries, and carefully take out the stones without making a large hole; break them and throw in the kernels with the cherries; set on the fire some good clarified sugar in a sugar pan, into which put your cherries and. let them boil gently till tolerably thick; put them in a basin and mix with them the juice of two lemons, and a very little clarified isinglass; set this on ice, if you have any, and just as it is wanted put it into your timbale. APRICOTS IN A TIMBALE. Take two dozen apricots, peel them and take out the stones, break them and put the kernels with the apricots, then finish them the same as cherries; but observe, they must stew very gen- tly in the sugar, which must be a little thicker 7 than for cherries, when you first put them in. : APRICOT MARMALADE. Peel and cut in half some of the ripest apri- cots, to every two pounds of apricots put a pound and a half of sugar well clarified; when boiled to a candy, put in your apricots and keep stirring them over a gentle fire till they fi look clear and thick; rub them through a new Ub hair sieve; some of the kernels stew down in Bary sugar and stir into your marmalade, then put it : ( in pots, and when cold tie it down. : it CURRANTS iN A TIMBALE. Some good red currants being picked and | washed, set to stew gently in thick clarified sugar, | as SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 298 as apricots ma timbale, and when done enough, mix with them lemon juice, and a little isinglags. GOOSEBERRIES IN AN OPEN TART, WITH OR WITHOUT CREAM. Pick and seald some young gooseberries, then with short paste make a tart of them, as you would of grapes, and serve it cold; or you may do it thus, when the tart is cold, ‘take off the top crust, and cut it in three corner shapes, beat up nearly a pint of thick cream, inte which when beaten, mix a little powder sugar; then lay it neatly over your gooseberries, and gar- nish it round with the crust. GOOSEBERRIES WITH CREAM, OR GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Having picked and scalded your gooseberries, set them on the fire in a sugar pan with clari- fied sugar; when done to a mash, take them from the fire, rub them through the tammy and mix with them the juice of two or three lemons; then beat up a pint or more of thick cream, ac- cording to the quantity of gooseberries, to a froth, which mix in with the gooseberries and serve it; or you may put them in a dish, and lay the cream over, which I think is better. PEACHES IN A COMPOTE, Cut your peaches in two, take cut the stones, peel them, then set them on the fire in a sugar pan, with thick clarified sugar enough to cover them, in which let them simmer very gently till done; then take them out in a basin, ‘put in the kernels to the sugar and let it boil till tolerable thick; put in the juice of two or three lemons, | 5 3 and arian ilar eal ea i i i i a 4 i] Be a 294 SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. and pour the sirup over the peaches; serve them in a deep dish hot. PEACHES IN A TIMBALE. These are done like the last, but mix in a little isinglass, just to turn them into a gentle jelly ; serve them in a timbale. PINES IN A COMPOTE. Turn off the see of a pine, cut it in slices, but not teo thin; then have some sugar on the fire in a sugar pan, One which put the slices of pine and let them boil gently till the sirup is tolerable thick, take out the pine and lay it ona dish; mix in the sugar the juice of two lemons, and pour it over the pines. PEARS STEWED. Take some large stewing pears, wash and prick them, set them on the fire in a large stew- pan of water to scald them; take them out, put them in a pan on the fire with thin clarified sugar, enough to cover them, a stick of cinna- mon, a little mace, and two or three cloves ; Jet them stew gently till they begin to soften and look rather red, then put in a bottle of port wine, let them stew much longer till perfectly done, and look very rich and red; then put them in a basin or jar, with the liquor over them; they will be the better for keeping four or five days, QUINCES STEWED. Quinces may be stewed after the same manner as pears, but put in more sugar, and half the Racetity of port wine, let them simmer very gently SOUFFLES AND PUDDINGS. 995 © gently till well done and perfectly red; if for apple pies, peel, quarter them, and take out the cores, before you stew them; pour their liquor over them. * : QUINCE MARMALADE. Take quinces that are perfectly ripe, pare and cut them in quarters, take out the cores, put them in a stewpan with spring water, nearly enough to cover them; keep them closely cover- ed, and let them stew very gently till perfectly soft and red, then mash and rub them through a hair sieve. Put the quinces in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much thick clarified sugar as the weight of the quinces, and let them boil for an hour, stir it the whole time with a wooden spoon to prevent its sticking; put it into pots, and when cold tie it down. . JELLIES AND CREAMS. | To clarify Sugar. ———— Isinglass, Apple Jelly. Barberry Jelly. Cherry Jelly. Italian Cream. Cream another way. ‘Tea Cream. Coffee Cream. To roast Coffee, from the Al- Currant Jelly. Chieken or Fowl in Jelly, Italian Jelly. Lemon Jelly. Orange Jelly. Peach Jelly. Strawherry Jelly. - Wine Jelly.. Eggs and Anchovies in Jelly. Pine Jelly. Apricot Cream. Blanc-Mange aux Amands, Aimond Cream, Burnt Cream. manach des Gourmands, Chocolate Cream, Vanilla Cream. To give the flavour of Vanilla to Coffee, from the Almanach des Gourmands. Peach Cream. Plum Cream. Pear Cream. Cream grillée. Strawberry Cream. ice Cream in a Savoy Biscuit Whipped Cream, Ice Cream. s 4 Be - 296 JELLIES AND CREAMS. Be careful that your; sugar. and isinglass are well clarified, for which see the ‘wo first receipts ; next endeavour, to give your jelly the real fla- vour of the fruit, or whatever you make it of: the more simple the better; use no spices nor wine, unless it really is necessary ; it is the idea of some, that all jellies should be clear, which is nonsense, and is the reason many jellies that would be good are spoiled; let the taste be gra- tified before the eye, still if is highly necessa ry that both are pleased, but the taste-rst. Be careful not to put too much isinglass'in your jelly, just to igs it from breaking is sufficient, a jelly that is made too stiff, is unpleasant and gluey ; it certainly will stand well and look upright on the dish, but is not so good in the mouth: so put too little isinglass rather than overcharge your jelly with it. : TO CLARIFY SUGAR. Take twelve or sixteen pounds of sugar, which hreak up in a stewpan ; beat an egg and the shell together in a pan, mix it up with some water, and pour it over your sugar, set it over the fire and stir it till it boils, then carefully take off the scum from the top, and whenever it rises to the top of the stewpan put in a little drop of cold water, to prevent its boiling over; then beat up _the white of an egg till it begins to froth, mix it with a little cold water, and pour it into your sugar; when it has boiled, and all the dark foul scum taken off, and the sugar looks clear, take - it from the fire, and pass it through a jelly bag or silk sieve into a large basin or pan; it then is ; ready oie JELLIES AND CREAMS. 297 ready for use. I-you have but two or three pounds of sugar ‘fo clarify, it may be done in a much shorter way, which is to put in water, just enough to cover your sugar; set it on the fire and skim it when you see any scum arise; when boiled till it begins.to be smooth, beat up part of the white of an egg with a little water, mix it with the sugar, skim it well, and when it looks clear run it through a silk sieve intoa basin. TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. For a quart meald of jelly take about two ounces of isinglass of the best and clearest sort, put it ina stewpan with just cold water enough to cover it well; set it by the side of the stove with a spoon in, to stir it at times, and skim it when any scum rises ; let it boil very gently and well reduce, but be careful that it does not re- duce too much, as it will burn, and of course get a bad tacve and spoil your jelly; when you think it has reduced enough, and looks clear, pass it through a sieve into a basin ready for use." APPLE JELLY. Peel, cut in quarters, and core a dozen non- pareils or pippins that are just ripe and fresh, set about a pint of clarified sugar on the fire mixed with as much water, and when it boils skim it, and put in your apples, and let them boil very gently till the apples are done, then take a do- zen of the pieces out to garnish the jelly, the others let remain to boil longer. Then squeeze through a silk sieve in a basin the juice of three lemons; your apples being well skimmed .and boiled enough, run them through the sieve to the s 5 - lemon NS ae ee SRS a SERN F a re RL i ae SE SS 4 ( i I i 298 JELLIES AND CREAMS, lemon juice, then the isinglass, then put it back into a stewpan, and run it altogether through the sieve again; rince your mould out in cold water and set it in ice (if you have any), fill it half full of jelly, and when that is set place in the apples you took out of the sugar, which cover with a little more jelly, and when that is set fill up your mould; the minute before it is wanted turn it out, and, if you have them, place some dried cherries about your jelly. BARBERRY JELLY. Take a pint of barberries that have been well picked, have a stewpan of water ready, boiling hot, into which put your barberries, cover them close down, and let them remain till nearly coid ; set on some clarified sugar diluted with water (in the whole let there be little more than a quart) on the fire; when it begins to boil skim it well, put im the barberries, letting them boil gently for half an hour or more; have the juice of three lemons squeezed though a silk sieve into a basin, to this pass the liquor from the barberries, and then the isinglass. You may keep some of the barberries to garnish about the jelly when you turn it out. CHERRY JELLY. A couple of pounds of the dark red fleshy cherries must be picked, stoned, and put in a basin, laying the stones on a plate by themselves; then squeeze the juice of four lemons into a. ba- sin through a silk sieve, put the stones into the mortar and pound them; mash the cherries well altogether with a wooden spoon, while doing that put in half 2 pot of good currant jelly, then the Sante fai iy Se aia Be JELLIES AND CREAMS. _ 299 the stones you pounded and the lemon juice ; when all is well mixed together, set on the fire to boil (a few minutes) a pint of thick clarified sugar and isinglass well clarified, these must boil together and be well skimmed; when these are ready put the cherries into the jelly bag first, and pour the sugar and isinglass over them; run it through several times till you perceive it perfectly clear; if not sweet enough add more sugar, or not acid enough, more le- mon. Wet your mould, set it in ice, and fillit with the jelly; leave it till the last minute before you turn it out. CURRANT JELLY. : Set on the fire in a sugar pan a pint of smooth clarified sugar, when it boils put in a quart of - picked red currants, in which let them boil for half an hour; observe to skim them well, and at times add a little cold water to raise the scum ; when boiled enough run the liquor through a sieve into a basin, in which you have squeezed three lemons, then put in the isinglass, and set your jelly in a mould in ice as usual. ' CHICKEN, OR FOWL, IN SAVOURY JELLY. Put on the fire a couple of quarts of gaod con- sommé, and when it begins to boil well skim it, then clarify and finish it as in page 144. In this jelly you must put a fowl, or young chickens which are boned, filled with a farce and stewed first. See the preparation for Savoury Paities, Pies, Rissoles, &c. - ITALIAN JELLY. - Make a wine jelly as in the fifth receipt from s 6 this, \ 300 JELLIES AND CREAMS. this, with which half fill your mould; when thoroughly set take some Italienne cream that has been turned out of a plain mould, this cut in slices, and afterwards. with the middle size | plain round cutter; these pieces of cream lay in | : a circle round your jelly; when all are neatly | yh placed very gently. put in jelly enough to | cover them ; when that is set fill up your mould, and when wanted turn it out as another jelly. LEMON JELLY. Set on the fire a pint and a half of clarified su- gar, which dilute with a little. water; when it boils and has been well skimmed, put in two ounces of clarified isinglass, with a little rind of kemon cut very thin; let these boil till you have squeezed through a sieve in a basin the juice of six lemons, then pass your sugar and isinglass to it and set it in a mould, as any other jelly ; when turned out garnish it with dried jellies. ORANGE JELLY. Take a clean silk sieve and basin, into which squeeze a dozen oranges of the sharp kind, but be careful not to squeeze them too much, or an unpleasant bitter will come from the peel, which will spoil the flavour of the jelly; when the oranges are squeezed put in the juice of one, two, or three lemons, this depends entirely on the sweetness of the oranges; have on the fire nearly a pint of sugar boiling, with the usual quantity of isinglass; when it begins to run ra- ther thick take it from the fire, let it stand for five minutes, then mix it well together with the worange juice, and set it in a mould in ice, or in cups. aS an a a ae ST ee | JELLIES AND CREAMS.» 301 cups. Sometimes, for a change, squeeze in the juice of three Seville oranges. PEACH JELLY. Cut a dozen or ten peaches in two, take out the stone and peel them; set on the fire a pint of smooth clarified sugar diluted with water; when’ it has boiled and been skimmed put in your peaches, the kernels must be broken and put in with them; let them boil very gently, and when boiled for ten minutes take out four or five of the halves, which lay on a plate ready to garnish the jelly, the remainder of the peaches boil for ten minutes longer; while they are boiling take three lemons, cut off the rind, squeeze the juice through a silk sieve in a basin, pass the liquor of the peaches into it, and then the isinglass, run- . ning it through the sieve two or three times in order to mix it well; fill the mould half full of jelly, and when set, put in the peaches, in the same manner as directed for apple jelly. The reason why the lemons are peeled before they are squeezed for this jelly is, that the oil in the rind would rather spoil the flavour of the jelly than be any addition. / STRAWBERRY JELLY. Pick a couple of pottles of the best scarlet strawberries into a basin, with a wooden spoon mash them well, with half a pot of good currant jelly ; when squeezed to a pulp, stir in about a gill of cold spring watery the juice of two or three lemons; cold clarified sugar enough to sweeten it to your palate, and the isinglass like- wise put in as cool as you can, without congeal- IDS 5 PRSANE RESTA roe os ee eee Emenee 802 JELLIES AND CREAMS: ing; run it two or three times through the bag till it looks clear, set it as usual in ice, and when you turn it out, garnish it with strawberries. If this jelly should have any thing warm put to it, or set in a warm place, it will acquire a bad co- lour. WINE, OR CALF’S-FEET JELLY, Wash and set on the fire in cold water four calves’ feet, observing when they begin to boil, to skim them well; set them by the side of the stove to boil gently ; for several hours, till the bones are all separated, and pass the liquor through a silk sieve into a large basin or pan; when quite cold and a jelly, take all the fat from the top, wipe it well off with paper, that not the least particle remain, then set it on the fire again , to boil; skim it well, take it off, and let it stand _ while you beat up the whites of six eggs in a large stewpan, to which put a very small bit of thin rind of Jemon, and the juice of four, clari- fied sugar, enough to sweeten it to your palate, and a bottle of bucellas wine; mix them well to- gether, and examine the jelly that no fat may re- main, if there should take it off with paper, and pour it in the stewpan with the wine and other things; set it on the fire and continue stirring it till it boils, and let it boil very gently for three or four hours. Have your jelly bag washed very clean, place it in the stand over a large basin’; and when the jelly is ready, run it through seve- ral times till it looks clear and bright ; when all is through, set it over the fire once more till you see a white scum rise; skim-that off, and when the jelly begins to boil it is ready to put into the mould. JELLIES AND CREAMS. 303 mould. You may garnish your jelly as you fill it up, with different kind of grapes, placed in the mould according to your fancy, or preserved peaches, cherries, Sc. EGGS AND ANCHOVIES IN SAVOURY JELLY. Clean ten good anchovies, cut them in shreds and lay them on a plate; poach five eggs in vinegar and water, and as you do them put them ‘im cold water; then take a plain mould, in the bottom of which put-a little savory jelly (see page 144) and when it is set take the anchovies, and neatly cross them on the jelly, trim your eggs very neatly and carefully lay them on the an- chovies, then gently pour in a little jelly nearly cold; when the eggs and anchovies are weli set, fill up your mould, and keep it in ice till wanted, then turn it out like any other jelly. : PINE JELLY. Put on the fire a pint of clarified sugar boiled to the smooth degree, to which put nearly a pint of cold water, take a good ripe pine, peel off the rid, cut it in four quarters, and each quarter trim round andleng; when your sugar begins to boil, and has been skimmed, put in the pine, when it has boiled about ten minutes take out the round pieces, lay them on a plate, and let the other pieces remain to boiltwenty minutes longer. ‘Dake the rind off three lemons, squeeze the juice through a silk sieve into a basin, and when the pine has boiled enough, pour the liquor through the sieve to it, with two ounces of isinglass, clarified as before directed. Puta little jelly in the mould first, then cut the pieces of pine in small round bits; when that is set, more jetty . then 304 JELLIES AND CREAMS. then more pine; so proceed till the mould is full. APRICOT CREAM. Peel a dozen good apricots, break the stone and take out the kernels, and put them with them ; have ready on the firea pint and a half of thin clariied sugar, into which when it has been skimmed put the apricots and let them boil gent- ly for a quarter of an hour. Have a clean tam- my ready that has only been used for fruit, inte which put the apricots and sugar with the juice of two or tree lemons, then rub it through the tammy, and add isinglass a little at a time, but not quite so much as is put in jeilies, as creams do not require it; mix ail weil together with a small wooden or silver spoon; and pour it into the mould, which must be set round with ice. BLANC-MANGE AUX AMANDES. For a quart mould take a pound and a half of sweet almonds with a few bitter, put them in boiling water, and blanch them in a basin of cold water, then drain them on a sieve and take some fresh water in the basin again; then examine your almonds separately, and cut out all the bad spots yousee, putting them in water as you do them, and let them stand im water til! the next day, changing it once or twice the while. Before using them have the mortar well washed, and your almonds dried in a cloth, then pound them well till nearly as fine as for almond paste; when well pounded put them out of the mortar into a basin, mix with them haif a pint of cold spring water, and as much sugar boiled smooth, with a very small. bit of the thin rind of lemon; then rub and squeeze this oot eee a 7 Bie AN 2 ome Sop hen JELLIES AND CREAMS. 303° this through the tammy till the almonds are per- fectly dry, and when ail is through, put in the same quantity ofisinglass as for jelly, and set itin a mould. Some put cream or muk in their Blane- Manger; but mind and pound your almonds well, and you will find they will produce plenty of milk: be careful to cut out the bad spots. ALMOND CREAM. Having one pint of milk, and the same of cream, put them together in a stewpan on the fire, with a small bit ef lemon peel, to boil very gently for twenty minutes; in the mean while blanch and pound very fine, in a mortar three ounces of sweet almonds and half an ounce of bitter; then take the milk and cream from the fire, into which (while hot) stir your pounded al- monds, with the yolks of two or three eggs and clarified sugar (boiled to caramel height) enough to sweeten it; then put the whole intoa tammy, and with a wooden spoon well rub and squeeze it through, put it in the tammy again and squeeze it through the second time, then put in two ounces of isinglass well clarified as directed, (see page 297), which squeeze through to the cream ; the whole being together in a basin, have your mould ready in ice, into which put your cream, when set turn it out as any other jelly. There is a mistake in naming this and the last receipt blanc-mange; some cail this blanc-mange, but the reai and true bianc-mange is made pure] from almonds as in the last receipt, therefore this is properly almond cream BURNT CREAM. Set on the fire in a stewpan two table-spoonfuls 3 of S06 JELLIES AND CREAMS. of clarified sugar, leave it on till it begins to burn and get brown, then shake it about, and put in an ounce of ratafia biscuit, a small bit of lemon peel, sugar and orange flower, stir it to- gether, then put in a pint of new milk boiled; when it has simmered by the side of the stove for twenty minutes, beat up four eggs, and the yolks of two in astewpan, take the milk from the fire and mix with it halfa pint of good thick cream, then the eggs, which rub through the tammy, and repeat it the second time. Butter some small moulds with clarified butter, and fill them with cream; have a large stewpan on the fire with a very little water at the botton, when it boils gently put in your cream, and cover it close, with fire laid upon the cover, (which is called by the French cooks bain-maric). If you think pro- per it may be put in one large mould. When done take them out of the water, wipe them, and turn them on the dish. ITALIAN CREAM. Make this cream in the same manner as the last, the only difference is, the sugar must not burn, but bpil only to caramel height, and before you pass-it through the tammy, only put in the yolks of two eggs; pass it through the tammy twice, pitting in clarified isingiass (but net so much as for jelly), then set itin a mould with ice, and turn it out the same as jelly. ITALIAN CREAM, ANOTHER WAY. Take a small spoonful of flour, of pounded ratafia and sugar the same, a little lemon peel, the yolks of two eggs and one whole, with a little orange flower water, blend them well toge- : ther, JELLIES AND CREAMS, 807 ther, mixing in a little at a time, a pint of good cream; set it on the fire to boil for a couple of minutes; if too thick, add a little new milk; it then is ready. This is chiefly used for petits choux, meringue, pancakes a l’Italienne, or laid over a purée of apples, &c. TEA CREAM. Put an ounce of hyson tea in a stewpan, over which pour half a pint of boiling milk, cover it close, and let it stand a few minutes to simmer by the side of the stove; then strain the milk from the leaves, and squeeze them well in the tammy into a stewpan, to which put a pint of good thick boiled cream, with the yolks of four eggs beaten up in astewpan, and stirred in the cream, and some thick clarified sugar, enough to sweeten it; pass this twice through a tammy ; the while add a little isinglass, enough to congeal if ;, fill several small moulds, or one large one, which set in ice; when wanted, turn it or them out as you would a jelly. You may do this the same as burnt cream, by putting eggs instead of isinglass; then of course it must be set in a bain-marie, and served hot. COFFEE CREAM. Boil a pint of milk and the same of thick cream together; have then a quarter of a pound of raw coffee, roast it in a frying-pan, and when done of a good colour, while hot, put it ‘into your boiled milk and cream; cover it close, and let it stand for an hour; then put it in the tammy, drain the liquor from it, and squeeze it well to get the flavour of the coffee; mix in some clarified sugar, enough to sweeten it, boiled smooth; beat up the yolks of sy three 308 JELLIES AND CREAMS. three eggs, Which stir in with your cream, rub and squeeze it through the tammy ; at the same time add isinglass enough to set it, and pour it into a mould with ice round it as usual. TO ROAST COFFEE. [From the Almanach des Gourmands. } Coffee should never be roasted but at the precise time of its being used, and then it should be watched with the greatest care, and made of a gold colour rather than a brown one: above all, take care not to burn it, for a very few grains burnt will be sufficient to communicate a bitter and rancid taste to several pounds of coffee. It is the best way to roast it in a roaster (over a charcoal fire) which turns with the hand, as by that means it is not forgot, which often is the case when on a spit before the fire. CHOCOLATE CREAM. Take about half a cake of chocolate, bruise it to pieces, put it in a stewpan with a little milk, and stir it over a gentle fire till it looks smooth and thick, then add a little more milk, and stir it again over the fire; continue this till it takes the thickness of cream, sweeten it to your palate with clarified sugar, stir in a little thick cream with a very little isinglass, rub it through the tammy, and set it in the mould. VANILLA CREAM. Boil half a stick of vanilla in a pint of cream for nearly an hour, to which add half a pint more cream, with the yolks of three eggs beaten up, and. clarified sugar enough to sweeten it; pass it twice through the tammy like any other cream, and add a very JELLIES AND CREAMS. 309 a very litile isinglass; set it as usual in a mould or cups. . TO GIVE THE FLAVOUR OF VANILLA TO COFFEE. [From the Almanach des Gourmands. ] Take a handful of oats, very clean, and let them boil for five or six minutes in soft water; throw this away, then fill it up with an equal quantity, and let it boil for half an hour; then pass this decoction through a silk sieve, and use it to make your coffee, which will acquire by this means the flavour of vanilla, and is most excellent. PEACH CREAM. Prepare your peaches as for jelly, but instead of running it through a sieve, rub the whole through the tammy, and use less isinglass; put it all at once in the mould, which must be set in ice. PLUM CREAM.* Let this be done in the same manner as peach cream, and made with the magnum-bonum; the other kinds will do, but the first is preferable. PEAR CREAM. Cut in quarters, peel, and core a dozen jargo- nel, or any other mellow pears, put them in the tammy, and mash them well with a wooden spoon; then put to them a little clarified sugar cold, the juice of three lemons, with isinglass as cool as it can be without setting; then rub the whole through the tammy, and immediately set it in large or small moulds, with ice round them. CREAM GRILLEE, Make a burnt cream, as directed before, butter a large plain mould, into which put the. cream, : 72 and 310 JELLIES AND CREAMS. and place it in a bain-marie, till well set; then turn it out of the mould, and let it stand still cold; . with a knife cut your cream into two or three slices, about half an inch thick, then cut it round with a middle-size plain cutter, have an egg beaten up ready, into which dip the round pieces of cream, then in crumbs of bread; repeat the same in good clarified butter and crums of bread, laying them on paper as you do them; a few minutes before they are wanted, put plenty of clarified butter in a platform on a stove, when hot lay the cream in; and when one side is brown, turn it to the other, till both have taken a good colour, lay them on a sheet of paper, and serve them very hot to table. . STRAWBERRY CREAM. Prepare your strawberries as for strawberry jelly, except, rub it through a tammy, and put in less isinglass. When you turn it out of the mould, garnish it with strawberries. ICE CREAM IN A SAVOY BISCUIT. Weigh a pound of fine powder sugar in a large basin, the same of fine dry flour, put them into a hair sieve, grate on a piece of sugar nearly the rind of a lemon, which scrape into the sugar, and a few bitter almonds pounded very fine; rub them with a wooden spoon well together, then begin to put in the eggs, mixing in the yolk of one ata time, till you have put in ten; beat it well fora few minutes, and put in ten more eggs in the same manner as before, taking care to put the whites in a copper basin or stewpan, ready to beat up; when the batter is well beaten, set a person to whip the eggs to a smooth stiff froth, at the same time JELLIES AND CREAMS. oli time continue beating the batter, when the eggs are ready, mix in a little at a time with the batter, by turning it lightly over with a wooden spoon ; and when the eggs are mixed, sift in the flour, and stir in the same, having a mould or two well buttered, shake them round with powder sugar, then put in the biscuits ; set them in a cool oven, and raise the heat while they are baking; when done, carefully turn them out of the mould, and set them in the oven again for two or three minutes; put it away to cool, and carefully cut the top off straight, and take out the inside in one piece, which cut into rusks about three inches long, and one in width; these you must brown in a very gentle oven: having an ice made either of cream, or water with fruit, put it inside the _biscuit, lay the top on, and garnish it round with the rusks. This biscuit you may send whole and plain, or make round, or finger dreps with the batter. WHIPT CREAM. Take a pint of thick cream, put it in a basin or stewpan, and beat it up with a whisk to a strong froth, then mix in a little powder sugar and orange flower; serve it in a small basket made of the border paste, with the same kind of rusks as in the last receipt, garnished round. If your cream should not soon froth, as sometimes it will not, be careful that you do not beat it to butter. gS Ai ie The ene See eee aa 312 CONFECTIONARY. The following receipts in CONFECTIONARY may be depended upon as both practical and fashionable; and I shall begin with a very mate- rial point for attention, in describing THE DEGREES OF HEAT OF SUGAR. Much has been said in former publications respecting the degrees of sugar; such receipts I consider almost useless, and filling up the work with what cannot be learned by theory, as by practice only can it be attained. There is what is called five degrees in boiling sugar. The first is when it will draw in a'string between the finger and thumb. The second is by dipping the skimmer in the sugar, and, shaking off what sugar you can, blow through the holes, and if bubbles appear, it has attained that degree; then boil it a little longer, dip in the skimmer and skake off the sugar; if it is enough, it will fly off like feathers, which is called the third degree. The fourth degree is by boiling it still longer, dip your finger in, and then in cold water— if ready, it will form a hard ball between your finger and thumb. The fifth and last degree is by boil- ing it longer than before, dip in the handle of a spoon, or a fork, which immediately dip in cold water; if ready, as soon as it touches the water it will snap like glass; this is called CARAMEL height. Be careful that your fire is not too fierce to burn your sugar, and the water you have ready by you is perfectly cold.—The above hints may be service- able with a little practice to understand the diffe- rent degrees of sugar. TO CONFECTIONARY. 313° TO CLARIFY SUGAR. Take the white of half an egg, put it in a large stewpan or preserving pan, whisk it up, adding water till the panis half full, and it appears like suds, or ina froth, then put in ten or twelve pounds of broken sugar, stir it over the fire till the sugar is completely dissolved, when so, take the spoon out, and attend to it till it boils, any dirty scum that appears, take off, but not the egg, when perfectly clear, strain it through a silk sieve or jelly-bag, to be ready for use. Deep pots with covers are the best to keep sugar in; or an earthen cask with a tap, keeps it free, from dust, and pre- vents any waste. ROCK SUGAR, Put half of a pint, or a pint, according to the quantity you wish to make of clarified sugar, in a large sugar-pan, set it on the fire, in the mean- while beat up with a fork in a small stewpan a very small quantity of the white of an egg, to which add fine powdered sugar till it comes to the thickness of the iceing for cakes (see page 324); when your sugar has boiled to caramel height, take it off the fire and stir in a small table-spoonful of the above iceing, stir it quick, let it rise twice, then pour it in a sieve, or in a paper case, cover the pam over it till it sets, then put it by for use; it ought to rise to the top like a sponge or souffle, —this will be white rock sugar; if you wish it red, stir in the egg a little carmine; if blue, alittle powder-blue; yellow, saffron; green, saffron and blue together. BARLEY a | .. + | ol4 CONFECTIONARY. BARLEY SUGAR. Boil in a sugar-pan a pint or quart of clarified sugar with a small bit of lemon peel till caramel height, have a marble slab ready lightly oiled, pour your sugar out in lengths according to the size you want the sticks, twist them, and when quite cold put them by for use. SUGAR TABLETS, OR KISSES. ‘The same as the last, only leave out the lemon peel, pour it in one piece on the slab, and when nearly cold, cut it in half-inch squares, separate each square, sift some powdered sugar over them, and fold each separately in a small piece of writ- ing paper. There may be a verse, enigma, &c. &c. written on each paper; but I think them better without. TEA SUGAR. Have ready made some very strong green tea, which you must add to the sugar as in the two former receipts; reduce it. to caramel, and cut it and fold it in paper, the same as the last: add more or less tea to make it stronger or weaker. PINE SUGAR. Reduce fine clear pine syrup as before, and finish it the same. The four preceding receipts may be flavored with any fruit or essence, and named accordingly : for example—apricot, orange, lemon, cherry, Noyau, Maraschino, vanilla, &c. &c. DROPS. Drops are made with the white of egg and sugar, much after the same manner as iceing (see page 324), LEMON CONFECTIONARY. 315 LEMON DROPS. Take half a dozen of lemons, with clear skins, wash and wipe them dry, rub the lemons on sugar and scrape the sugar off on a sheet of paper, till you have taken off all the yellow, beat up in a basin the white of three eggs with a wooden spoon, at the same time adding the lemon, sugar, and ". more powder sugar, till it is so that it will just drop without running; add the juice of lemon according as you may want it acid. These are dropped about the size of sixpences on sheets of white paper, and dried in a warm closet, or before -. the fire, if no closet; when dry, take them off, put them in glasses, or boxes, to keep in a dry place; serve them as a garnish or in paper cases. ORANGE DROPS. The same as the former.—If wished to be sharp, add a few drops of lemon juice. / VIOLET DROPS. Pick the finest scented violets you can get, quite free from their stalks, set on the fire in a sugar-pan one pint of syrup, which reduce to caramel height, then put in violets, which stir till cold, pound it and sift it through a silk sieve; beat up three eggs as before, add the violet sugar and powder sugar to bring it to a proper thickness, and a small quan- tity of fine powdered orris root; drop them as before. ORANGE FLOWER DROPS. Pick your orange flowers, and proceed as be- fore,—let there be nv orris root. PEP- 3l6 CONFECTIONARY. PEPPERMINT DROPS. The eggs and sugar as before, with a few drops of the oil of peppermint. PEPPERMINT LOZENGES, Steep half an ounce of gum dragon (more or ' less, according to the quantity you wish to make) it in warm water, the same as for gum paste (see Hi page 267), squeeze it through a tammy, and mix i it well on a slab with the best double-refined powder sugar, and a few drops of the oil of pep- permint, till it becomes a stiff paste; work it well till perfectly smooth, then roll it out to the thick- ness of an eighth of an inch, cut it out with a cutter the size of a sixpence, and dry them in a closet or before the fire, on sheets of paper; keep them in boxes or glasses for use. ROSE LOZENGES. The same as the last; a few drops of the spirit of rose; colour the paste with a little cochineal. VANILLA LOZENGES. Pound one stick of vanilla with some sugar, | sift it through a silk sieve, and mix your paste, as before, with the vanilla sugar; cut them, and dry them.—Observe, these lozenges may be cut in any : shape you fancy, diamonds, rings, &c. 1 BISCUITS. Weigh one pound of fine flour, which put before the fire to dry; then take a large clean basin, into which weigh one pound of fine sugar, grate in the { rind of a lemon, then take sixteen eggs, put each yolk in separate, mixing it well each time; the whites CONFECTIONARY. 317 whites put in a large copper basin. When all the yolks are in with the sugar, beat them well till per- fectly smooth and white, during which time the whites must be well beat till of a stiff smooth froth ;. when so, add a little at a time to the eggs and sugar, mix them lightly together, then add the flour, warm, and one small glass of Noyau; when well mixed together, put it out in what shape or size moulds you fancy.—Observe, the mould or moulds must be buttered, and some fine sugar shook round the sides; bake them in a slow oven. If you bake them ia very small moulds, they will require a quicker oven. It is usual to put a few pounded bitter almonds in, but Noyau is better. FINGER BISCUITS, DROP BISCUITS, &C. The finger biscuits are made with the same paste as the Savoy biscuit; drop them on sheets of pa- per in lengths, sift some sugar over them, and bake them in a quick oven; you may flavor them with Maraschino, rose-water, vanilla, orange- flowers, or any other; sometimes sprinkle carraway seeds over them. ‘The drop biscuits are the same, except that they are made round. TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE BISCUITS. The same paste as the Savoy, drop them in small drops, put a dried cherry on each, sift some sugar over them, and bake them in a moderate oven. PATIENCE BISCUITS. The biscuit paste dropped as small as it possibly can be in very neat rounds, baked in a quick oven, and, when cold, join two of them together with apricot jam.—I consider it needless to give any more 318 CONFECTIONARY. more receipts of the different shapes or flavors that may be given to the biscuit paste, as it rests entirely on fancy: be careful, in mixing it, to keep it as light as possible. WATER BISCUITS. ‘Take one or two pounds of flour, lay it on the slab or board, put to it half an ounce of butter, add water, and mix it well till perfectly smooth and stiff, by beating it with the rolling pin, roll it out as thin and even as you can, prick it all over, and cut the biscuits out with a tin or iron cutter about two inches diameter, place them on sheets, and bake them in a quick oven. Thése are called water biscuits, but they will be found much better, if mixed with milk instead of water. CARRAWAY BISCUITS. Make the same paste as before, with a very little fine sugar, and a few carraway seeds, beat them well, roll them thin, and cut them in shapes three inches by one; bake them in a quick oven. RATAFIA BISCUITS OR DROPS. Take half a pound of the best Jordan almonds, and half a pound of bitter, blanch them, put them in cold water, and pick all the spots out, dry them well, and pound them as fine as possible, put them in a basin, and mix with them one pound of fine powdered sugar, and a few drops of rose-water ; beat up the whites of five eggs to a stiff'and smooth froth, mix them very lightly with the almonds and sugar, drop them in small drops on sheets of pa- per, and bake them in aslow oven. CHANTILLY CONFECTIONARY. 319 CHANTILLY BASKET Is made with the Ratafia drops :—have your drops ready, and some sugar reduced to caramel height, a round, or oval, or any shaped mould, ac- cording to the shape and size of your dish, place your biscuits round the mould, joining them with the sugar; when cold, take it carefully off, and line the inside with wafer paper; fill it with any kind of pastry, or with rusks and whipped cream, made to a strong froth. ‘This most properly belongs to the second course, and may be fixed round the rim of a dish; the garnishing of it depends entirely on the taste of the maker; rock-sugar, gum-paste, flowers, comfits, &c. &c. may be used in garnish- ing. ‘This basket may be made with drops made from the Savoy biscuit paste. ALMOND CAKES, See Almond paste (page 266); roll it out thin, and cut it in small round, or any shape cakes; bake them in a slow oven, or squeeze it through a sy- ringe for that purpose; make it in knots, or any shape you fancy. This paste may be changed to different shapes and flavors, according to the taste of the confectioner. QUEEN CAKES. Weigh one pound of fresh butter, beat it well in the preserving pan till it comes to a fine cream; then beat up twelve eggs, yolks and whites, in an- other pan over a gentle fire till quite warm, take them off, and put in twelve ounces of fine pow- dered sugar, whisk it for two or three minutes, put . them over the fire again, and whisk them till warm : U then 320 CONFECTIONARY. then take them off and continue whisking them till quite cold; then mix it with your hand, stir in one pound of sifted flour, the butter, and twelve ounces of currants well washed and picked; your heart tins, or any other shape being previously buttered, three parts fill them, put them on a bak- ing sheet with paper under them, and bake them in a quick oven; if too hot, put a sheet of paper over them. SHREWSBURY CAKES. Beat up a pound of butter in a pan till as fine as cream—then take one pound of powdered sugar, a little cionamon and mace pounded and sifted, four eggs, yolks and whites together, beat it well with your hand, and then put in one pound and a half of fine flour, work it well together, and roll it out on the slab or dresser, till thin and flat, cut them out to what shape or size you like, and bake them in a slow oven till they just change their colour. GINGER. CAKES. Take two pounds of flour, which put on the dresser; take a stew-pan, into which break three eggs, beat them well with a spoon, add to them half of a pint cf cream, continue beating them, and put the stewpan over a gentle fire, and stir them till just warm—then put in one pound of butter to the cream and eggs, half of a pound of powdered sugar, and continue stirring it over a slow fire till the butter is quite melted, pour it into the flour and mix it well all together; when in a smooth paste, roll it out on the dresser a quarter of CONFECTIONARY. 82k of an inch thick, cut them the size of a five shil- ling piece, and bake them in a hot oven :—observe to put two sheets of thick paper under them.— Most proper for the winter. GINGERBREAD NUTS. Take one pound of the best thick treacle, which put in a large basin, to which add four ounces of fresh butter just melted, which stir well together, then add half of an ounce of the best ginger in powder, one ounce of preserved lemon and orange peel cut very small, and one ounce of coriander and carraway seeds pounded, which mix well together with one egg; add as much flour as will just bring it to a paste—roll them in nuts to what size you please, and bake them in a slow oven; diminish or increase the ginger as approved of by your employer. A GINGERBREAD CAKE. - Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put in a basin, half of a pound of treacle, and half of a pound of the best Lisbon sugar, one pound of butter just melted, and seven or eight eggs, beat these well together; then add one ounce of fine powdered ginger, the same of car- raway and coriander seeds, and lemon and orange peel cut in shreds, one glass of brandy, a very little salt; mix all these well together, and bake it in two small hoops, in a regular, moderate oven, the same as any other cake. RUSKS. Take a stale Savoy biscuit, (to make see page 310,) cut it in lengths, and bake it in a slow oven till of a light brown. U2 BUNS. 322 CONFECTIONARY, BUNS. To three quarters of a pound of fine flour put half a pint of warm milk, mix in two spoonfuls of light yeast, cover it up, and set it before the fire for an hour or more to rise, then work into the paste four ounces of sugar, the same of butter, avery little coriander and carraway seeds, finely pounded; make it into Buns, bake them in a brisk oven; when well baked and brown, take them out, and immediately brush them over with a mixture of a little egg, milk and sugar. This paste may be made in large cakes when cold, cut in slices, and baked as rusks. SEED CAKES. Take fourteen eggs, and break them in a cop- per pan, whisk them ten minutes, take one pound of butter, and beat it well with your hand toa cream, add'one pound of powdered sugar to the eggs and whisk them over a gentle fire till just warm, then take them off and whisk them till cold; when cold, mix in the butter as light as you can with your hand, then put in two or three handfuls of carraway seeds, some sweet almonds cut, and a little cinnamon and mace pounded, then mix in one pound and a quarter of flour as light as you can with your hand, put three papers round the inside of the hoop, and five or six at the bottom, bake it in rather a brisk oven; it will take one hour and a half, or two hours to bake: if too brown, Jay a sheet of paper on the top. A LARGE RICH CURRANT CAKE, (Commonly called PLum Caxe.) Take a large copper basin or preserving pan, into which put four pounds of butter, and work it: uP CONFECTIONARY. 323 up with your hand, till it comes to a cream; have another large copper pan, and break into it fifty eggs, and whisk them ten minutes, then add to them four pounds of powdered sugar, and whisk them all together over the fire till quite warm; be careful they do not stick to the pan, take them off, and whisk them till cold; then mix in the butter with your hand, and put in one ounce of pounded mace and cinnamon, and a gill of brandy, one glass of Noyau, two pounds of lemon and orange peel and citron, and one pound of sweet almonds all shredded, then finish mixing with five pounds and a half of fine flour and four pounds of cur- rants, well washed, picked and dried, have your hoop ready papered, with four sheets inside, and six at the bottom, your oven rather brisk; to try when it is done, put a packing needle or skewer in the cake, when enough, it will be perfectly dry. PLUM OR CURRANT CAKE, Another Way. Beat one pound of butter in a basin to a cream; then stir in one.pound of fine-powdered sugar, a little pounded cinnamon and nutmeg; when well mixed, stir in the yolks of ten eggs, one at a time; the whites you must beat to a strong froth, and work them in lightly, a few at a time; then add one pound of shredded orange and lemon peel, two ounces of pounded sweet almonds, two glasses of brandy, and stir in two pounds of currants, and lastly one pound and a half of fine flower, mixing it all together as light as possible. Put three sheets of paper round a tin hoop, and six at the bottom ; bake it in a.moderate oven for three hours. [If it us should CONFECTIONARY. should brown too quick, put some paper on the top. A brick oven is best for these kind of cakes, the heat is always more regular. ICEING FOR CAKES. Take a large basin, into which put the whites of three eggs; be careful there is none of the: yellow with them; beat them up well with two wooden spoons, the same as you beat a cake; the whisk will not do, because it makes them too frothy: while you beat them keep adding some very fine pounded double-refined sugar, and the juice of a lemon, little at a time; when perfectly white, smooth, and of such a consistence that it will just remain on the cake without running off, it is ready. This quantity will ice two middling sized cakes; pour it on the top of the cake and smooth it down with a card; put it to dry in the warm closet, or before the fire; turn it often. . If you wish to ornament it, lay the ornaments on while the iceing is wet; or fasten them on with a little white of egg and sugar, after the iceing is dry. LEMON WAFERS. Squeeze six lemons into a large basin, to which add some double-refined pounded sugar, till it is of a fine smooth thickness, put in one white of an egg, and mix it well together with a wooden spoon. Take some sheets of wafer paper, which lay on a pewter or tin sheet, put a spoonful on, and with a knife cover the wafer paper all over, cut it in eight or twelve pieces, put them across a stick in the hot stove, and you will find they will curl; when half curled, take them off, and'set them up endways, in a sieve; let them be in the hot stove one day, aud CONFECTIONARY. 320 and you will find them more curled; they are then ready ; keep them dry. ORANGE WAFERS. Rasp the rind of six China oranges very fine, cut them in half, and squeeze them into a basin, and the juice of three lemons; add some fine pow- dered sugar, and make it of the same thickness as your lemon wafers ; and dry them the same with wafer paper.. PEPPERMINT WAFERS. Squeeze six lemons into a basin, add some pow- dered refined sugar, and one white of an egg; beat it till it is very white ; put a few drops of the oil ef peppermint, and finish it the same as lemon wafers, ROSE WAFERS. "The same as above, flavored with spirit of rose, and coloured with cochineal. APRICOT JAM. Take a quantity of ripe apricots, cut them in pieces, and take out the stones; mash them down in a large copper preserving pan, then put them over the fire, mashing them all the time; force them through a colander or wire sieve with a pestle; when all through, set them over the fire, and let them boil for ten minutes, stirring them all the time.—To every pound of pulp, have ready a pound of sugar, clarified and boiled to caramel height; then putin the pulp, and let it boil twenty minutes, stirring it all the time; put in a few apri- cot kernels, blanched, and put it out in pound or half-pound pots, with apple jelly on the: top, pi’ that 326 CONFECTIONARY. that a brandy paper, and a double paper tied over the pot. RASPBERRY JAM. Let your raspberries be gathered on a dry day, when perfectly dry; mash them well down in a large basin, then have their own weight of loaf sugar boiled to caramel; put the raspberries in, and boil them half an hour, stirring them all the time: put them in pots, as the apricots.—A little currant juice with the raspberries is an improve- ment; and if you should not like so many seeds in the jam, rub them through a wire or coarse hair sieve. STRAWBERRY JAM. - Having picked the stalks from the strawberries, mash them well in a large preserving pan; set them over the fire, and make them so hot as nearly to boil; pass them through a wire sieve, and boil them twenty minutes, stirring them all the time; have ready boiled a pound of sugar, as near as you can, to a pound of pulp, and finish it the same as apricot jam. DAMSON JAM. Having picked your damsons from the stalks, put them in jars covered in a very slow oven, till reduced toa pulp—rub them through a wire sieve ;— take an equal quantity of sugar, boiled to caramel, put in the pulp, and boil it ten minutes or a quarter of an hour; put it in pots, with brandy paper over it, and tie it down. BARBERRY JAM. Gather the barberries on a-dry day; pick them from the stalks, and set them in the oven in a jar or CONFECTIONARY. $27 or jars, to bake; when thoroughly done, pass them through a wire sieve, be careful that no skins get amongst the pulp; weigh it, and to every pound of pulp have a full pound of sugar boiled to caramel height—boil it ten minutes, and put it in pots covered with apple or currant jelly, a brandy paper, and tied down.—( Pages 205 to 803, sce other Receipts for Jellies and Creams. ) CURRANT JELLY. Take a large quantity of red currants, examine them well, that there are no leaves or useless stalks in them; set them on the fire till all the juice is boiled out of them, but not longer ; strain the juice through a flannel bag, two or three times, if you wish it fine; take an equal quantity of syrup as juice, put it in a large preserving pan, let it boil down to caramel height, then put in the currant juice, and boil it twenty minutes or longer; skim it often, and put it in your pots or glasses, with brandy paper on the top. You may pick your currants, if you like, but they are found to do equally as well without—white currants the same. APPLE JELLY. Choose the most juicy and sharp apples you can get—the Ribston or Russet are the best—peel and core them, put them in a preserving pan, with just water enough to cover them ; boil them gently till to a marmalade, then strain them through a jelly-bag; when all through, measure the same quantity of clarified syrup; boil it down to cara- | mel, then stir in the apple juice, and boil it for half |. an hour; try it, by dropping a little ona a ' an 828 ICE CREAMS. and set it to cool: if it sets, itis ready. . Put it in pots, cover it with brandy paper, and tie it down. >This kind of jelly is in general put over the jams. GOOSEBERRY JELLY. Take four quarts of green gooseberries, more or less, according to the quantity you wish to make; to which add three quarts of water; boil and mash them well, and run the juice through a flannel bag. When all the juice is from the gooseberries, measure it—put on the same quantity of clarified syrup, boil it to caramel, and finish it the same as apple jelly. RASPBERRY JELLY. Take some ripe raspberries, gathered on a dry day; mash them well in a preserving pan, set them on the fire, and stir them all the time; when nearly boiling take them off, and run them through a jelly-bag or sieve, but let none of the seed pass; then set it on the fire.and let it boil twenty minutes ; to every pint of jelly add a pound of sugar, boiled down to caramel; put in the jelly, and boil it toge- ther for twenty minutes; put it in pots, and finish as directed: for other jellies. ICE CREAMS, &c. (For a greater Variety of Creams, see pages 304 to 311.) APRICOT ICE CREAM. Take one dozen of ripe apricots, cut them in half, take out the stones, and set them on the fire with about half a pint of syrup; let them boil | gently ICE CREAMS. 329 gently; meanwhile take the kernels, blanch and pound them fine, put them with the apricots ;— when boiled a few minutes, and ali well melted, pass them through a hair sieve into a basin, add to them the juice of one lemon and one pint of cream.— Put it into the freezing pot, cover it up, set the pot ina pail with some pounded ice ander it,and round the sides, with plenty of salt; continue. turning the pot round for a few minutes, then scrape it well from the side with the ice spaddle, and continue so doing till it becomes as smooth as butter, and thick; then put it in your mould in another pail, with ice under and ever it, and plenty of salt; or turn it out of the freezing pot, into the ice pail, or in glasses.—This ice may be made of the bottled apricots (for which see page 335), treat- ing them in the same way; or of jam, but then use much less sugar. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. Take two pottles of scarlet strawberries, mash them well down in a basin, to which add half of a pint of strong syrup, cold, and the juice of one lemon, rub them through a fine hair sieve or tammy ; then add one pint of cream, and freeze them, as before directed: a little fresh currant juice is an improvement, BISCUIT ICE CREAM. Take six eggs, the yolks of which put in a stew- pan, which with a wooden spoon beat up, and add one pint of cream, the rind of a lemon, and. half of a pint of syrup. Stir it on the fire till it begins to thicken, crumble into it some Savoy and ratafia biscuits, rub them through a sieve, and freeze it. GINGER 330 WATER ICES. GINGER ICE CREAM. Take a quarter of a pound of preserved ginger, pound it fine, and put it into a basin with half a pint of syrup, one pint of cream, and the juice of one lemon: mix all well together, and freeze it. PLAIN ICE CREAM. Put one pint of cream into a freezing pot, as usual, with ice round it; whisk it till it hangs to. the whisk, then take the whisk out, and put ina table-spoonful of refined powdered sugar ; scrape it, and stirit well about, till frozen, with the ice spaddle, and then put it in the ice mould, or glasses. ORANGE-WATER ICE. Take eight China oranges, squeeze the juice through a sieve into a basin, and the juice of one or two lemons; have ready on the fire three gills of syrup, with the thin rind of an orange, boiled to nearly two gills. Mix it well with the orange juice, by passing it through the sieve two or three times; then put it in the freezing pot, and finish as directed for the other ices.—Observe, the water ices must be well worked, to make them as smooth as butter: if at all crisp and hard, they are not right. PEACH-WATER ICE. Take ten or a dozen peaches, peel and take out the stones, which break, blanch the kernels and pound them; put them with the peaches in a pre- serving pan, with about a pint of syrup; set them on the fire, and let them boil till quite done; rub them through asieve; add the juice of one or two lemons, and freeze it as before. Take care that it is perfectly smooth, CHERRY- WATER ICES. ood CHERRY-WATER ICR. Stone in a large basin, two pounds of fine ripe cherries, mash them well together; pound in a mortar the stones, which put with the cherries, one pint of syrup, the juice of two or three lemons, and a little currant juice or currant jelly ; when well mixed together, run the whole through a jelly-bag, and freeze it smooth as before.—This is an excel- lent ice, if well mixed while freezing. STRAWBERRY-WATER ICE. Pick two pottles of the best scarlets in a large basin, mash them well with a wooden spoon, put to them one pint of cold syrup, a little currant- jelly or juice, and the juice of two or three lemons ; mix them well together, and rub the whole through a fine sieve or tammy, put it in the freezing-pot, and proceed as before.—Observe to keep your strawberries quite’cool. DAMSON-WATER ICE. Set on the fire one pint of syrup in a preserving pan, into which put one quart of damsons, let them simmer gently till well done, pass them through a sieve, and add the juice of one or two lemons and three or four drops of Noyau, freeze it smooth by well working it. LEMON-WATER ICE, Put one pint and a half of syrup on the fire with half a pint of water and the thin rind of a demon, squeeze four or five lemons through a sieve i a basin, when the syrup and peel has boiled a few minutes, skim it, let it- cool, and then mix it with the lemon-juice ;—freeze it. x PUNCH BOTTLED FRUITS. PUNCH A LA ROMAINE, OR ROMAN PUNCH. Make a lemon ice the same as foregoing, only with as little sugar as possible, boil about half a pint: of syrup to blow, or the second degree, whisk up the whites of three eggs to a strong froth, then add the sugar to the eggs hot, one glass of rum, brandy, Maraschino and. Noyau, mix the whole into the lemon-ice, and whisk it up till it becomes thick.— Serve it in glasses for balls or routs. BOTTLED FRUITS. OBSERVATIONS. I intend giving these receipts as the different fruits come in season or are ready for bottling. That I may not have to repeat it in every receipt, I think it proper to give a few hints. In the first place, be particularly careful that your bottles are well washed, and well dried by putting them in a very slow oven for a night or three or four hours ; be careful that your corks or bungs are of the best sort. Next observe, that your fruit must be ga- thered dry, and put into the bottles as soon as you can; if left till the next day, they will frequently get mouldy, and other ills will attend them. When you put your bottled fruit on the fire, let the water be cold, raise the heat gradually, and when the fruit is ready, take the fire from under it, or lift it off, and let it cool very gently, but mind never put in cold water, as your bottles will be sure to burst; they are in general packed round in the copper pan or boiler, with hay or soft straw, water up to the necks of the bottles, and covered. over with a thick cloth or cover to keep in the steam; itis a good method to have a flannel bag for BOTTLED FRUITS. Soo for each bottle, it then requires no other packing, and if the bottle should burst, you save the fruit in the bag, but it will not do to bottle again, only for present use. Each bottle is well corked, blad- dered, and tied down before it goes into the water ; and, when cold, dip each cork and part of the neck of the bottle in a mixture of rosin with a little lard, while hot. RHUBARB. Take what quantity of rhubarb you wish to bottle, peel it, and cut it in small pieces the same as for a tart, put it immediately in the bottles, shake it -well in, cork and bladder it, put it on the fire as directed in observations, and when it begins to boil, take the fire from it, or take it off, let it cool as before directed, and rosin it. GREEN APRICOTS. Have the apricots gathered before the'stone gets hard; they allshould be tried with a small sharp skewer, by piercing it on one side; if bard, it will not do; put them in a cloth with a handful or two of salt, in which shake them and rub them about to get off the down, then wash them well, and just scald them, put them in a sieve, make them very dry in a cloth, and put them in the bottles as before, let them simmer for half an hour, and then cool slowly. GOOSEBERRIES. Gooseberries may be bottled at any size, but the best and most proper time is when they are half- grown; the English rough red, and a smooth green gooseberry are the best kinds, Let them be ga- thered on a fine dry day, picked and put into the bottles directly; they should not stand a night be- x 2 fore Bs p27 BOTTLED FRUITS. . PUNCH A LA ROMAINE, OR ROMAN PUNCH. Make a lemon ice the same as foregoing, only with as little sugar as possible, boil about half a pint: of syrup to blow, or the second degree, whisk up the whites of three eggs to a strong froth, then add the sugar to the eggs hot, one glass of rum, brandy, Maraschino and. Noyau, mix the whole into the lemon-ice, and whisk it up till it becomes thick.— Serve it in glasses for balls or routs. BOTTLED FRUITS. OBSERVATIONS. I intend giving these receipts as the different fruits come in season or are ready for bottling. That I may not have to repeat it in every receipt, I think it proper to give a few hints. In the first place, be particularly careful that your bottles are Waits HE I well washed, and well dried by putting themin a Bh ae very slow oven for a night or three or four hours ; ae OF be careful that your corks or bungs are of the best a sort. Next observe, that your fruit must be ga- thered dry, and put into the bottles as soon as you can; if left till the next day, they will frequently get mouldy, and other ills will attend them. When you put your bottled fruit on the fire, let the water be cold, raise the heat gradually, and when the fruit is ready, take the fire from under it, or lift it off, and let it cool very gently, but mind never put in cold water, as your bottles will be sure to burst; they are in general packed round in the copper pan or boiler, with hay or soft straw, water up to the necks of the bottles, and covered over with a thick cloth or cover to keep in the steam; itis a good method to have a flannel bag for Ne eae: BOTTLED FRUITS. 300 for each bottle, it then requires no other packing, and if the bottle should burst, you save the fruit in the bag, but it will not do to bottle again, only for present use. Each bottle is well corked, blad- dered, and tied down before it goes into the water ; and, when cold, dip each cork and part of the neck of the bottle in a mixture of rosin with a little lard, while hot. RHUBARB. Take what quantity of rhubarb you wish to bottle, peel it, and cut it in small pieces the same as for a tart, put it immediately in the bottles, shake it well in, cork and bladder it, put it on the fire as directed in observations, and when it begins to boil, take the fire from it, or take it off, let it cool as before directed, and rosin it. GREEN APRICOTS. Have the apricots gathered before the stone gets hard; they allshould be tried with a small sharp skewer, by piercing it on one side; if hard, it will not do; put them in a cloth with a handful or two of salt, in which shake them and rub them about to get off the down, then wash them well, and just scald them, put them in a sieve, make them very dry in a cloth, and put them in the bottles as before, let them simmer for half an hour, and then cool slowly. GOOSEBERRIES. Gooseberries may be bottled at any size, but the best and most proper time is when they are half- grown; the English rough red, and a smooth green gooseberry are the best kinds, Let them be ga- thered on a fine dry day, picked and put into the bottles directly; they should not stand a night be- x 2 fore BOTTLED FRUITS. fore they are put in the bottles as they are apt to sweat, consequently they will get mouldy when bottled; skake them well down in the bottles, and let them simmer ten minutes—if younger, fifteen minutes, if older or riper, only just let them simmer; when cold, dip in rosin. CURRANTS. Take what quantity of currants you wish to bottle just before they turn red, have them gathered on a fine day, clip them clean from the stalks with a pair of scissors, put them in the bottles and shake them down, cork and bladder them, and proceed as before; let them simmer ten minutes; if you wish to bottle them ripe, shake them carefully down in the bottles, and only just let them begin to simmer. CURRANT-JUICE. Put your currants in a preserving pan over the fire just to draw the juice from them, strain through a jelly-bag, and put in quart bottles per- fectly dry, cork and bladder them, and proceed as before; let them simmer half an hour. This cur- rant-juice will make good jelly, and is very useful to make currant-water for balls. The juice may be pressed through a wine-press, instead of going on the fire. RASPBERRY. Melt the raspberries down in the preserving pan, strain the juice through a bag, and proceed as for currant-juice.—It is a good mixture with the currant-juice. CHERRIES. Gather the cherries on a fine’ dry day, stone them, or only take off the stalks, put them in the bottles, BOTTLED FRUITS, 300 bottles, cork them well, and proceed as before; let them simmer a quarter of an hour.—If you stone them, put in a few of the kernels. CHERRY-JUICE. Take a quantity of very ripe cherries, the Mo- rella, or any that is very juicy, stone them, and mash them well together, pound the stones in a mortar, and mix them with the cherries, strain ‘them through a jelly-bag, and bottle the juice as the currant.—Excellent for ices, jellies, and cherry- water for balls. APRICOTS. Be careful that the apricots are well ripened and perfectly dry ; cut them in halves, quarters, or let them be whole; if whole, have large-mouth bottles with bungs, secure them well with cork and bladder; with the halves and quarters, put in a few kernels; they must simmer five minutes—the whole ten minutes; finish them as before.—These do well for tarts or ices, and may be made into jam. PLUMS. The wine sours are the best, but any plum may be bottled; pick them from the stalks, and get them in the bottles as quick as you can; cork and bladder them, and finish them as before.—The wine sours, when ripe, must simmer ten minutes ; not ripe, five minutes longer; and some of the hard plums half an hour. DAMSONS. The same as the plums.—Excellent for tarts, or ices, and may be made into cheese or jam at any time. x3 PEACHES. FRUITS IN BRANDY. PEACHES. Take the skin off the peaches, cut them in halves or quarters, bottle them, and close them well down as before, and only just let them begin to simmer, for they are very tender; put in a few of the kernels. NECTARINES. Proceed the same as with the peaches, only let them simmer ten minutes ;—some of the kernels. BARBERRIES. Gather the barberries when quite ripe and dry, pick them from the stalks, put them in bottles, cork them as before, put them in the water, and let them simmer twenty minutes; these may do for tarts, jelly, jams, or ices. ; FRUITS IN BRANDY. MORELLA CHERRIES. Choose the finest Morella cherries you can get, cut off the stalks about half an inch long, then place them regular in the glass jars, put twelve ounces of powdered sugar-candy to every quart of brandy; when the sugar is dissolved, pour it over the cherries; cover the glass close with a bladder, and fill it up as the cherries, take the brandy, serve them for dessert in glasses for that purpose. APRICOTS. Get the finest and clearest-skinned apricots you can, the Moor-park, but not too ripe, put them in a pan of water, and cover them over with paper ; set them over a slow fire and let them simmer till soft, take them out, and put them in a tabie cloth doubled PRESERVED FRUITS. 337 doubled two or three times, and cover them close; have some of the best French brandy, to every quart of which put ten or twelve ounces of pow- dered sugar-candy. Put the apricots in the glasses, and when the sugar is dissolved in the brandy, fill the glasses up, and cover them close with a blad- der. The apricots suck up a good deal of brandy, therefore you must mind aud keep them covered with brandy by frequently filling the glasses up. PEACHES. Take the finest white heart peaches which come in last in the season; proceed with them the same as directed for apricots ; be careful that the brandy is the very best white French. GREEN GAGES. Take some preserved green gages, drain the syrup from them, put them in the glasses; and to every quart of brandy, put four or five ounces of powdered sugar-candy ; when melted pour it over the gages, and cover them close with a bladder. PLUMS. Take some preserved plums, and proceed as directed for gages. PRESERVED FRUITS, WET, APRICOTS. Cut the apricots in half, and with a small knife | peel them very neatly, have a preserving pan of boiling water on the fire, and another with boiling syrup; put the apricots, a few at a tine, in the boilmg water, when a little tender take them out, drain them, and put them in the boiling syrup, and let them boil slow for ten minutes; put them in 338 PRESERVED FRUITS. in a flat-bottomed earthen pan, and cover them over with paper, boil the syrup a little longer, then pour it over the apricots; the next day boil them five minutes, and put them carefully back in the pan; the syrup must be boiled the four or five following days, and poured over them. There ought to be a small hole in the bottom of the pan, with a tap or spigot to draw the sugar off without disturbing the fruit. The sixth day put them in pots with apple-jelly on the top, and brandy- paper; be careful the pots are dry, and the apricots must hardly be ripe. GREEN GAGES. Take care that they are very fine and perfectly sound, prick them well and put them in cold water; have ready a very thin syrup, in which only just scald them, have ready another thicker syrup, in which let them have one gentle boil ; then put them in an earthen pan with a tap at the bottom, and Jet them stand till the next day, then draw the syrup from them, boil it, and pour it over them; repeat the same for eight days, and then let them have a gentle boil, and put them in ‘the pots with apple-jelly, and brandy-paper on the top. STRAWBERRIES. Pick the finest and largest strawberries you can get, gathered on a very fine day, put some syrup in a preserving pan, which boil quick for half an hour, put the strawberries in while it boils, but not too many at once, let them boil a quarter of an hour, take the scum off with paper; if you perceive them likely to break, take them off and put them in the pots; when cold, pour apple jelly over them: finish them as before. ORANGE PRESERVED FRUITS. O39 ORANGE PEELS. Choose the finest Seville orange peels free from spots, set them on the fire in a preserving pan, and let them boil till quite tender, two or three hours, throw them in cold water, scrape all the pith from the inside, and place the peels one in another, round the bottom of a pan, with a tap, till nearly fall; then pour syrup enough over them to cover them, let them stand two days, draw the syrup from the peels, boil it, and pour it over them; repeat it five or six times, and keep them well covered, by adding more syrup; when finished, put them in stone jars, covered with a bladder and leather. LEMON PEELS. The same as the orange: take care that they are boiled tender; and boil the sugar three or four days longer: finish them and cover them down the same. CHERRIES. The cherries must be the very best Kentish, stone them without breaking, and put them ina large pan, pour some boiling syrup over them, and cover them till the next day, then boil them and put them in the pan again; the day after boil them gently for twenty minutes, and put them in the pan again; repeat it for eight days, then make a thick syrup for them, put them into it and then into the pots, with apple jelly and brandy-paper over them. CUCUMBERS, OR GIRKINS. The cucumbers must be a good green and free from spots; put them in salt and water for three days 340 PRESERVED FRUITS. days, then take them out and drain them well, put them in another pan of water, scald them, and let them stand all night; then drain the water from them, put them in a pan, and to every two quarts of water put half a pint of syrup, let them boil over a slow fire five minutes, put them into the pan again, and let them stand till the next day, boil them again, then drain that syrup from them; then have a clean pan, with the syrup of a proper thickness, let it boil, put the cucumbers in, and let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour, then put them in a flat pan, and cover them, let them stand two days, and then drain the syrup from them; boil the syrup two or three minutes, and pour it over them; repeat the same five or six days, put them in pots, and cover them with a bladder. It will be an improvement to put a few pieces of the best givger, cut, in each pot. GREEN GOOSESERRIES. Choose the finest and largest green gooseberries you can get, scald them, be careful that they do not boil. Put them in a large pan, let them stand three days; then drain the liquor from them, put them into another pan with water and a little syrup, set them over the fire till warm, but not to boil, only till they are green; the next day strain all the liquor from them, put them into an earthen pan, and pour thin boiling hot syrup over them ; repeat this for six days, reducing the syrup to make it thicker, then put them in pots and tie them up when cold. DAMSONS.—(Damascenes.) Take the largest and most perfect damsons, prick them at each end, have some syrup boiling on the fire DRIED FRUITS. BAL fire for a quarter of an hour, into which put the damsons, and boil them slow for twenty minutes, and skim them well; put them into an earthen pan, cover them up, the next day strain the syrup from them; boil it well, then put the damsons with the syrup into pots, and when cold, put some apple jelly over them, and cover them with brandy- paper, and paper tied over them. ANGELICA. Cut the stalks of the angelica about six inches long, boil them in a pan of water till tender, string the outsides, and put them in a pan of cold water; drain all the water off, and lay them in a flat earthen pan, till above half full, then cover them well with boiling syrup; always keep the angelica well covered with syrap ; let it stand till the next day, then draw off the syrup by a hole at the bot- tom of the pan, and boil it, which repeat for six or eight days, till the syrup becomes thick ; let it remain in the same pan, or put it in glasses, and cover it up for use. DRIED FRUITS. APRICOTS, ‘Take apricots, that you have preserved, out of the syrup, wash them in warm water, lay them separate on sieves, put them into the hot closet for three days, changing the sieves every day; when dry, put them in boxes in layers, with paper between each layer. GREEN GAGES. Put some preserved green gages over the fire to warm, drain the syrup from them, put them on ues sieves cerita oe eae SORES pa ane ae —_ TSS Ss SS SY : LY at} ile Rie hae] 342 DRIED FRUITS: sieves in the hot closet, change them every day, and turn them, for three days; mind they do not stick; then put them in boxes as the apricots. ORANGE PEELS. Take preserved orange peels out of the syrup, wash them in warm water, put them on sieves in the hot closet to dry for three days, changing and turning them; when dry, put them in boxes.— Lemon peels are done the same. CHERRIES. The cherries must be the best Kentish; draw the stone out, if you can, with the stalk, or with a quill similar to a tooth-pick, thrust it down at the top of the cherry, and draw the stone out without tearing the cherry; when the cherries are stoned, put them in a large pan, alayer of cher- ries and a layer of powdered sugar, till the pan is full; if you have enough, let them stand three days till the sugar is dissolved, then let them have two or three boils, and put them in the pan again, and let them stand till the next day; repeat the same four or five days; then pour them on a sieve, have several sieves ready, on which lay them singly, only just to cover the bottom, put them in the hot closet, turn and change them every day till dry; have a box ready papered, put the cherries in, a layer of cherries and a sheet of paper, till filled.— Keep them in a dry place for use. ANGELICA. Take preserved angelica out of the syrup, wash it in warm water, cut it in slips, make it into knots, or plat it, or putit in what form you please; put it on sieves in the hot closet, turn it often, and when dry, put it in boxes or glasses, EST! DAMSONS. HOME-MADE WINES. 343 DAMSONS.—( Damascenes. ) Drain all the syrup from damsons that have been preserved, lay them on sieves, only one layer, put them in the closet warmer than usual, change the sieves, and turn the damsons every day ; when not at all sticky, put them in a box in layers, with paper between each layer. BIFFINS. There is an apple called a biffin, the skin is tougher than other apples. Take what quantity you want of these, put them on baking sheets in a cool oven, so as not to cause them to burst; when they begin to soften, press them gently with your fingers, then put them in the oven again; so continue doing till they are quite done, and you have them quite flat, like round cakes; rub a very little sweet oil over each, and put them in boxes with paper between each layer. HOME-MADE WINES. COWSLIP. Take four pounds of loaf-sugar, to which add one gallon of water, boil and skim it well, as long as any scum rises; to each gallon of water, put the thin rind of a lemon, and three gallons of the flowers of cowslips, which let boil three minutes, then put them into a tub, and when nearly cold, toast a piece of bread, which spread thick with yeast, put it in the liquor and let it stand to fer- ment for two days ; then put it into the cask with the juice of six or eight oranges, or three or four lemons; to five gallons of wine, put one quart of brandy ;—white is preferable. ¥ GOOSEBERRY, - B44 HOME-MADE WINES. GOOSEBERRY. The gooseberries must be gathered ona dry day, and only half ripe. Pick and well bruise a peck of them in a tub, then put them in a press, and squeeze all the juice from them you can, to every gallon put three pounds of sugar, loaf is the best, pounded, stir all together till dissolved, then put it into a cask, which must be quite full; if ten gallons, let it stand a fortnight, if twenty, three weeks; set it in a cool place, then draw it off the lees, and pour in the clear liquor again; for ten gallons, one quart of brandy ;—let it stand four months, and bottle it. CURRANT. Gather the currants when full ripe on a fine dry day, strip them into a large pan, and bruise them well with a pestle; let them stand three days to ferment; then run all the liquor through a sieve, to every gallon put three pounds of sugar, stir it well together and put it into the cask; to every six gallons put a quart of brandy, and let it stand three months.—If fine, bottle it; if not, draw it off into another cask, and add a little isinglass, let it stand a month longer, then bottle it. CHERRY. When the cherries are full ripe, take off the stalks, put them in a press to squeeze all the juice from them, to every gallon of liquor put two pounds of loaf sugar, mix it well together, then put it into a cask, which must be full; when it has done working, stop it close for three months; if clear, bottle it. Ifasour cherry, as the Morella, put three pounds of sugar, likewise you may pound some ET eT ee HOME-MADE WINES. 345 some of the stones, which put in the cask to give the flavor of the kernel;-——-a quart of brandy to eight gallons. ELDER. Gather the elder-berries on a dry day, when fall ripe, pick them, and put them into the copper; to every gallon of berries, add a gallon of water, let them boil till the berries are quite soft, then strain and press them well through a strong hair or wire sieve; then put it in the copper again, and to every gallon of liquor put.three pounds of moist sugar; let it boi] an hour, skim it well, then put it in a tub; when nearly cold, toast a piece of bread, which spread thick with yeast, put it in the liquor, and let it stand two days to work, and put it into a cask of a proper size; if ten gallons, put two quarts of brandy; tie a few cloves and bruised ginger in a muslin bag, which hang from the bung- hole into the liquor; when it has done hissing, close it up; let it stand one year, then bottle it.—If you like, you may leave out the spices, as it may easily be flavored with them when warmed. ELDER-FLOWER. To every six gallons of water put eighteen pounds of loaf sugar, boil and skim it half an hour, when nearly milk warm add a quarter of a | peck of picked elder-flowers, the juice and peels - cut thin of six lemons, six pounds of cut raisins, and four spoonfuls of yeast spread on a toast, stir it often for three or four days; when. quite done working, put in a proper size cask, and stop it up. —It may be bottled in ten or twelve months; a quart of brandy to eight gallons—or none. y2 RAISIN me cnt ere Sa ST HS RRS Rg RS a eS ws ne nn rr asin en oases ctoes tome 346 HOME-MADE WINES. RAISIN. To six pounds of Malaga raisins put one gallon of water; let it stand to ferment in a tub for twelve days or a fortnight, stirring it frequently, then put the raisins in a wine-press and squeeze them, as dry as possible; the liquor put in a cask of the proper size to be full; to ten gallons, put one quart of brandy or more; dissolve six pounds of sugar- candy, and put it in the cask; when it has done hissing, bung it close down ;—if you wish to make it extra rich, put seven pounds of raisins instead of six; let it stand ten or twelve months, then bottle it. GINGER. Put seven pounds of sugar in a copper pan, to which add five gallons of water; boil and skim it a quarter of an hour; then put the liquor into a tub, and when cold, add six pounds of Malaga raisins. Have ready six ounces of ginger, boiled in two quarts of water till it is reduced to one, and the peels of two lemons, cut thin and boiled with it ;—-when it is cold, put it to the liquor, with two ounces of isinglass; spread a toast thick with new yeast, and put it in; let it stand two days to fer- ment; then take out the bread, and put the liquor into a cask, with a pint, or more, of brandy: when done hissing, stop it close. In two months you may bottle it. ORANGE. Take forty pounds of loaf sugar ; to which put thirty quarts of water, and the whites of four eggs; mix all well with the water while it is cold; boil it, and skim it well for half an hour; have ready ina tub ten quarts of the juice of Seville oranges, and DISTILLED WATERS. 347 and half of the rinds cut thin; pour the boiling liquor over them, and let it stand till cold, and then add a quart of brandy ; put it in the cask, stop it close, and in six or eight months it will be fit to bottle ;—if too sweet, let it stand longer. GRAPE. To two gallons of grapes put one gallon of water; bruise the grapes, let them stand a week, then press them; to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of sugar; put it in a proper sized cask, when done hissing, stop it close—one quart of brandy to eight gallons. It will be ready to bottle in ten or twelve months, if perfectly clear. RN SE SRR ER SOI DAMSON.—( Damascenes. ) Let the damsons be gathered on a dry day, weigh and well bruise them, then put them into a large earthen pan, that you use for preserving, that has a tap or a spigot at the bottom; to every eight pounds of fruit put one gallon of water, which you must first boil, and put scalding hot over the damsons. Let it stand two days, then draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and a half of sugar——put it into_a vessel of a proper size to be full; when it has done hissing, put in a quart of brandy to six gallons; stop it close, and in twelve months bottle it, if clear; if not, let it stand longer. DISTILLATION, Tavine given a few receipts of the best and most serviceable made wines, it is highly necessary that a housekeeper should know something of dis- tilling—to the full extent is not necessary— ¥3 enough i f ' ' “py BARE IB aap eA SSSI Sessa tinct 348 DISTILLED WATERS. enough to have it in her power to turn every. thing she has in her charge to the best advantage, that nothing may be lost, which is too often the case, by employing those that have not experience— such, of course, are got for lower wages. On the other hand, take a person that knows her profes- sion well, to the full extent; give that person three times the wages of the other, the person with the heavy wages, as may be thought, is by far the most profitable servant; her employers likewise may have the happy satisfaction of know- ing that none of their property is lost. ‘That per- son, with her great abilities, if a just and honest servant, will have her eye on every thing, and not let an atom be lost. The other, for want of fore- sight and true knowledge of her profession, will throw away and destroy many a valuable article, that may prove of the greatest advantage to her employer.—For instance, in Home-made Wines, —even Ale and Beer—all have more or less dregs at the bottom of the cask; these dregs are thought useless, and thrown away :—TI say no, let all be passed through the still, and a spirit may bé drawn from all. Whatever wine you bottle, distil the dregs or grounds, bottle it, and keep it one year; you may then use it in your wine instead of brandy :—there is the advantage, besides liqueurs and cordials.—A still for the above purpose will cost five pounds, which in a short time will pay itself, by proper use: therefore no family that make wines ought to be without it. A still consists of a boiler, which contains the wash or dregs; and a tube, in passing through which the vapours are condensed; the tube is convoluted, in order that it may have a great length DISTILLED WATERS. B49 length in a moderate compass, and it is thenée called the worm. The worm is generally made of tin or pewter, which passes through a tub of cold water, which must be kept continually cold, by drawing it off by a tap, and adding more.—It is a good method to have it continually running in and out, but there is not always a conveniency for that. Your still must not be much above half or three parts full; keep a moderate fire under it, and watch it very closely, for if it should boil over, you will have it all to do over again; let it only drop, which ought to be as clear as crystal; draw about one quart of spirit from six of dregs (but that greatly depends on the strength of the dregs). When you have several bottles, distil it over again, which will be very strong; draw about half: the remainder in the still add to any dregs that you distil afterwards.— To prove the strength, put some spirit in a glass, let one drop of sweet oil fall into it; if strong, and above proof, the oil immediately sinks to the bottom of the glass. Brandy is produced by the distillation of wines of all kinds, and by no other fermented liquor; though the purely spirituous part of all fermented vinous liquors, procured by distillation, is essen- _ tially the same, and therefore an infinite variety of imitations of the intermediate produce of dis- tillation may be produced by adding flavoring and colouring matters to any kind of pure spirit; —therefore the spirit or brandy that we get from the dregs of our wines, if kept to have age, will fully answer the same as the foreign brandy.— There is another method of distilling, which is the use of the Balneum Marie, a much more te- dious, though a sure way of getting a pure pie with 300 DISTILLED WATERS. with a good flavor, and not burnt.—It is, instead of having your boiler next to the fire, set it in another boiler with water, which must be kept continually boiling; the spirit will drop slow, but of a good flavor; however, with care and atten- tion, the other way will answer all purposes. CHERRY BRANDY. For four gallons.—Oil of cloves twenty drops, three gallons of good spirits or brandy, mix it well together; the juice of black and red cherries, equal parts, one gallon, syrup three pints, and mix it well. Bottle and cork it well. CREME DE NOYAU. For four gallons—Blanch and bruise two pounds of apricot and peach kernels, infuse them in three gallons of spirit for twelve days or a fort- night ; then strain off the spirit, and add one gal- lon of clear syrup: mix it well together: bottle it and keep it for use.—If you want it'a pink colour, put a little powdered cochineal to the almonds ; if yellow, a little saffron. CREME D’ORANGE. Take the juice of Seville oranges five dozen, spirit of wine two gallons, sixteen pounds of sugar dissolved in four gallons of water, orange flower water two quarts, saffron one ounce ; infuse all to- gether for a fortnight, then strain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it for use. RATAFIA DE CERISES. Take sixteen pounds of Morella cherries, with their kernels bruised, spirit two gallons; infuse them together for three weeks; strain it off, then add DISTILLED WATERS. BOL add four pounds of loaf sugar, clarified and made in a syrup.—Bottle it. ANNISEED CORDIAL. For two pints.—Oil of anniseed ten drops, spirit of wine three gills, and one pint of syrup, mix all well together; and it is ready for use. CITRON CORDIAL. For four gallons, take essence of lemon and ber- . gamot, of each a quarter of an ounce, spirit of wine five quarts, mix it well together; then add two gallons of syrup, and three quarts of water.— Bottle it. PEPPERMINT WATER. Gather the peppermint just before it flowers, pick the largest stalks off; put the leaves in a large tub, with just water to cover them; let them stand twenty-four hours; fill the still three parts full, and draw it off very slow ;—put it in bottles, but do not cork them for three or four days. If you wish to have some of the oil by itself, for drops or lozenges; you must have astraight earthen-pot, with holes at certain distances, and a peg in each ; the oil floats at the top; when you have got as much as you can from the still, draw the peg out where the oil is, it will run clear off: hold a bottle under to receive it. PEPPERMINT CORDIAL. For four gallons, take oil of peppermint half an ounce, spirit of wine five quarts, mix them well together, then add two gallons of clear syrup, and three quarts of soft water that has been boiled. ESSENCE SS a ere NE = = eens 4 ql Ne 1 fh j iS B02 DISTILLED WATERS. ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT. Oil of peppermint four ounces, spirit of wine two pints, mix it well together; this will be found very convenient to have always ready, for mixing the above cordial; having the syrup ready, it may be mixed in one minute. LAVENDER WATER. Gather the lavender when full ripe, before the flower opens; pick it from the stalks, soak it ina tub, with water just enough to cover it, for three days, often stir it; fill the still three parts full, and draw it off slow; the oil may be taken off the same as the peppermint. ROSE WATER. Gather the moss or cabbage roses as soon as they open, pick them well from the stalks, and put them to soak the same as the lavender ; fill the still three parts full, and draw it off very slow. ELDER FLOWER WATER. Gather the elder flowers, when just ripe, pick them from the stalks, soak them for two or three days, and distil them the same as before. ELDER FLOWER SYRUP. Having the elder flowers well picked, infuse them for three weeks, or a month, in clear syrup; strain it off, and bottle it for use. This syrup makes an excellent imitation of the Frontigniac grape ice; lower it with thin syrup, and the juice of.one or two lemons, freeze it: Likewise a plea- sant cordial, by adding spirit, and mixing it the same as peppermint. CAPILLAIRE. PICKLING. 308 CAPILLAIRE. To twenty-four pounds of loaf sugar, put two gallons of water, whisk up the whites of eight eggs and mix it well with the sugar and water, boil it gently for half an hour or longer till quite clear ; strain it through a flannel bag, and while hot, put in half an ounce of essence of lemon, and a pint of orange flower water, and mix it well. This is an excellent thing for sweetening punch, Negus, &c. &c. TO MAKE YEASY. Take a peck of malt, boil it in one gallon and a half of soft water, for half an hour, pour off the liquid, and keep it warm for twenty-four hours; collect the yeast; boil more malt, and add to the first decoction; keep repeating the process till you have a sufficient quantity of yeast procured. There is more certainty in using this kind of yeast, than any other, and besides, there is no bitter taste in it. PICKLING. Before I come to a conclusion, I beg leave to mention how important and material it is that a house-keeper ought never to be without pickles,— and of her own preparing. It is too often the practice to make use of brass or copper utensils, by way of bringing the pickles to a fine green. It is a most dangerous experiment, and let me beg of those who do, me the honor of perusing my work, never to practise it. All vegetables that are pickled may be brought to a fine green without the pernicious practice of letting them stand in brass or copper. COMMON 304 PICKLING. COMMON VINEGAR. Take six pounds of Lisbon sugar, to which add six gallons of soft water; boil and skim it as long as any scum rises, put it into a tub, and when it is only warm, toast a piece of bread, which spread thick with yeast on both sides, and put it in, let it work for twenty-four hours; then have ready a cask fixed in a place where the sun has full power, fill it with the liquor, lay a saucer or tile over the bung-hole to keep out the dust.—Make it in March, and it will be fit to use in July or August, then draw it off in bottles, and cork it;—if not sour enough, let it stand longer. TARRAGON VINEGAR. Gather the tarragon just before it blows; strip it, and to every pound of leaves put a gallon of white wine vinegar in a stone jar; cover it up and let it infuse for a fortnight, then run it through a flannel bag; to every four gallons, put half an ounce of dissolved isinglass ; put it into a cask or stone bottle, and let it stand a month or two to fine, then bottle it in pint or half pint bottles. GREEN APRICOTS. Take what quantity of green apricots you want, before the stone is formed hard, the same as for tarts; take off the down by rubbing them in salt, then put them in a stone jar in a warm place, covered with salt and water, to remain till turned yellow, which will be in about twenty-four hours ; when turned, drain the liquor from them, and set them over a moderate fire with more salt and water, covered with vine or cabbage leaves, till they turn green ; PICKLING, 3 300 green; mind they do not boil; if slow in greening, change the salt and water and the leaves; when quite green, dry them, and put them in jars; boil some distilled vinegar with a small bit of mace and ginger, and pour it hot over them ;—repeat the same for five or six days, put in two or three capsicombs, and when cold, tie a bladder over them. GIRKINS. Wash them well, and green them the same as the apricots, then drain them very dry and put them into a jar ; then take a gallon, more or less, according to the quantity of girkins, of white wine vinegar, a few cloves, mace, mustard seed, horse-radish cut, bay leaves, and a little salt; boil all together, and pour it over the girkins; cover them close, and let them stand till the next day; then put them, all together, over the fire, and let them only simmer for a few minutes, but do not let them boil; then put them into the jar, and cover them with a cloth; when cold, tie them over with a bladder and leather.—Keep them for use. BEET-ROOT. Well boil a good-colored tender beet-root, cut it in slices, or in any shape you please, and put it ina jar; then boil some distilled vinegar with a little mace, ginger, and horse-radish; pour it over the beet-root ; when cold, tie it down.—It makes a pretty garnish for salads, &c. CAULIFLOWERS. Choose the whitest and firmest cauliflowers you can get, pull them in bunches and lay them on a Zz sieve, 356 PICKLING. sieve, sprinkle them well all over with salt, and let them lay three days till all the water is drawn from them, then put them into jars and pour boiling salt and water over them; let them stand twelve hours, then drain and dry them, and put them into glass jars; fill up the jars with distilled vinegar, and tie them over with bladder. MUSHROOMS. The smallest and firmest button mushrooms you can get must be put into spring water; then take a small piece of flannel, which dip into salt, and rub each mushroom over with it; then throw them in spring water again; then drain the water from them, and put them in a stewpan with a little salt, closely covered, and set them over the fire till thoroughly hot and the liquor drawn from them ; dry them between two cloths till they are colds-put them into glass bottles with a blade or two r mace, a tea-spoonful of sweet oil, and fill the bottles with distilled vinegar, cork them close, tie them over with leather, and keep them ina cool place for use. RED CABBAGE. Having taken off the outside leaves, shred the cabbage very fine, lay it on a dish, and sprinkle some salt over it; let it stand two days, and put it into a colander to drain; then put it in the jar. Take enough white wine vinegar to cover it, afew cloves and 1 mace, and scraped horse- cadish> boil it up together; when cold, pour it over the cab- bage ;—a few slices of beet-root is an improve- ment; tie it over with a bladder. ONIONS af! ~~ PICKLING, B07 ONIONS. Take the smallest, round, and whitest onions “you can get, put them in salt and water for a week, changing the water every day; then put them in a jar, and pour fresh boiling salt and water over them, and let them stand close covered till the next day; then pour some more salt and water, boiling hot over them; the next day, put them on a sieve to drain, and then into wide-mouth bottles, which fill up with distilled vinegar. Put into each bottle a blade or two of mace, ginger, a tea- spoonful of sweet oil, and two bay leaves; cork them up, and tie a leather over them. SAMPHIRE. Put some green samphire in an earthen pan, over which pour a weak brine of salt and water, in which let it stand twenty-four hours; then put it into a clean pan with a handful of salt, and cover it with vinegar, set it over a slow fire closely covered, let it stand till green and crisp, but no longer; if it gets soft, it will be spoiled. Put it into the jar, cover it with a cloth, and when cold, tie it down with a bladder and leather. NASTURTIUM. The nasturtius berries must be gathered as soon as the flower is gone off, put them into cold salt and water, which change every day for three days. ‘Take white wine vinegar, according to the quantity of nasturtium, into which put mace, nut- megs, chalot, peppercorns, salt, and scraped horse-radish. The pickle must be strong, as it must not be boiled. When you have drained the yA nastur- naman 308 PICKLING. nasturtius berries from the salt and water, and made them dry, put them in a jar or bottles, and pour the vinegar over them; cork and tie them up: they will answer occasionally for capers. INDIAN PICKLE, OR PICCALILLO. Take white cabbage, cauliflowers, small cucum- bers, onions, kidney beans, radish pods, beet-root, and any other thing commonly pickled; put them on a hair sieve, and throw a handful of salt over them ; set them in the warm closet three days to dry ; when all the water is run from them, put them in layersin a large earthen pan, and between each layer put a handful of mustard seed; then take as much vinegar as you think will cover it; to every gallon of vinegar put an ounce of turmeric; boil it together, and pour it hot over the pickle. Let it stand a fortnight in a warm place, or till the pickles are all of a bright yellow colour, and most of the vinegar sucked up; take then two quarts of vinegar, an ounce of mace, and the same of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and nutmeg ; pound them together, and boil them in the two quarts of vinegar for ten minutes; then pour it over the pickles, with three ounces of peeled garlic, a few chalots—tie them well down. FRENCH BEANS. Green them the same as girkins ; put them on a sieve to drain; make a pickle with white wine vi- negar, into which put a little mace, pepper, and ginger: boil it ten minutes: the beans being put in a jar, pour the pickle hot over them: when cold, tie them down. MANGOES. _ PICKLING. JO MANGOES. — For this pickle you must get the largest cucum- bers, before they are too ripe, or at all yellow: cut a long piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with a tea-spoon; then put them into salt and water for six days, till they are quite yellow : stir them often each day; then put them into a pan with a quantity of vine leaves under and over them; beata little roach alum very fine, and put it in the salt and water they come out of; pour it over the cucumbers, and set them over a slow fire for three or four hours, till they become tolerably green ; take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve to drain; when cold, put inside them mustard seed, a little scraped horse-radish, two or three cloves of garlic, a few cucumbers, sliced, pepper, onions, or any thing else, till they are filled; then put the piece in which you had cut out, and sewit; do all the same. Then have the following pickle ready : To every gallon of vinegar put one ounce of mace, the same of cloves, two ounces of sliced ginger, and the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, and black pepper, three ounces of mus- tard seed tied in a bag, and four ounces of garlic and a stick of horse-radish cut in pieces, Boil all these ten minutesin the vinegar, and pour it hot over the cucumbers: when cold, tie it down for use. It having been discovered that receipts for making curry were omitted, they are here given, with the assurance that they are genuine and practicable. 23 EAST 360 CURRY. EAST INDIA CURRY. Cut three moderate sized onions in thin slices, which put in a stewpan with some clarified butter; fry them till brown, then add to them one table- Spoonful of curry powder, in with which mix a pint of consommé (see page 45), or good light coloured beef stock: take two raw chickens, cut them up the same as for fricassée, and stew them with the curry powder and onions till done, add a little salt, place it on the dish, and pour the sauce over it, while it is stewing ; well wash and boil some Patna rice, when done, put it in a stew- pan by the fire to dry; serve it with the curry :— Observe, instead of chicken, you may use rabbits, pheasants, partridges, veal, lamb, or even frogs if to be had good; if you have cold roasted chickens, not over-done, they may answer.—This receipt is genuine, as I had it from, and saw it myself prac- tised by, an East Indian Cook. CURRY, ANOTHER WAY. When you take the chickens out of the curry- sauce, to dish up, add to the sauce two spoonfuls of Béchamelle (see page 179), and a few drops of | lemon juice, pour it over; or when the onions are fried, instead of leaving them in the sauce, take them out of the butter when brown, and put them on a sieve to drain; and when the curry is dished, place the onions round the dish. Excellent curry powder is to be had at Frederick Vallé’s Italian Warehouse, Haymarket. A. Page Almond Cakes....0.00+2 319 7 Paste. oes ssee», 266 Cream... 305 Angelica preserved....... 341 — Gried........06 342 Anniseed Cordial,.....++. 351 Apple Sauce.,o.,+.0.c00+ 186 ———- Tart...ssecceseoes 270 mart Bie. os sie occ inti QUT ——- Pudding.......... 284 ——- Dumplings........ 285 ——- Fritters . veccscees 207 ——-alaTurque........ 288 ——- ala Frangipane.... 289 —-alaNone........ ib. —- Meringue......... ib. -en Miroton....... 290 en Compote....... ib. ——- Charlotte......... 291 © 9000290 oe Apricots preserved...... 337 ——-— dried....... vee 341 ——-— bottled...... +e 335 ——-— in brandy....... 336 ———--— pickled green... 354 - Jelly..... eeone 297, 320. Page Apricot Jam. Aeeesec0 08 00 325 Creaine.cecsceses 328 Ice cream...... ib. Artichokes boiled ......+. 224 a VItalienne.. ib. a VEstouffade. ib. a PEspagnole. 225 Asparagus Soup......... 66 B. ERODE sg ce bine sis xeieie ev 6 2TS Bacon, to choose,........ 8 <9 LO DOM . Saw sineiene se Sh Barberry Jelly .......... 298 ANS occ ciate er ow ee Barberries, bottled...... 336 Barley-sugar...eocessee+ 314 Batter Pudding ........ 281 Beans, French. -....0+++- 226 -, Garden .......... ib. Béchamelle Sauce......++ 179 Beef, to. Choose. séetsecsia 7 9. (OTD OE Bin ied’ soe 24 —— Stock. .sesevseeye Page Beef ala Maréchale..... 83 —al'talienne....... 84 aux Légumes...... ib. ala Bretonne....... 85 —— aux Choux farce a la Dame Simone .....- ib. —— ala purée de Len- tHIGS orev cvaseoe aD. alAnglaise........ 86 in Fillets, in a Mari- HAIG 6 Ses gales’ Face SDs POU: ccs Nis che sl in Cutlets, with Cucumbers..s.c.ess0 | 87 —— in Fillets, ala Vinai- ECREC Saka suun's sven care AEN —— Surlonge, en Epi- STAMME .erecccreseeee 88 —— mince, with onions ib. —— ala Tremblante..... ib. Tongue, roasted.... 89 mince, with Cucum- HEMSs sieeve chte et de ot IDS Steak Pie......... 260 Beet-root, pickled....... 355 : baked......6. 225 Biffins, to dry.....e.00+ 343 Bills of Fare. ...86, 38, 40, 42 Biscuit, Ice Cream...... 329 Biseusts vise cscs s oe'eves s B16 Blanc-Mange aux Aman- 08 sieeve htss 6.09 os POOA Blanquetie of Chicken, with Cucumber....... 139 with Rice.. ernecesseoce 140 with Macaroni........ ib. — of Partridge, with Truffles........2 163 With: Peas... 402 0) .°864 — of Rabbit.... 168 ONE Rihiaiwees eCUDe us a1 INDEX. Page BOLING oo. vt seks dees Brawn, to choose........ MRO 0). ges cs Bread Sauee.......0.005 - Pudding, baked... boiled .. Breast of Veal in a Ra- WOM Gaiaiala Sie'aa's'd cists chsais of Lamb, ditto... to be eat WOME Fawas.uuviiiw os. grillée, with Italian sauce.... BV IOCHKEN SS ia need feeder Brocoli, boiled ......000 Brondade, to make....... Burnt Cream ..s..eeeeee Butter Sauce .....eeceee 7 to Clarifyicod.e's Buttered Eggsessecccese Cabbage, 4 la Dame Si- TROWE) 0: oe ned SeNS -, stewed a PEs- Pagnole...veveceseces - red, pickled.... Calf’s Head Soup....... a l’Italienne. —a la Bécha- MOMs INL. Fee hashed....... a ?Espagnole Brains, a la Ravigote sis. eeess ——_————, en Matefotters secs e8s —, ala Venétienne .......... ;. etl Ragott Mélés ........ — Foot Jelly.......0. 332 9 128 185 281 ib. INDEX. 363 Page Page Cammelon & la Luxem- Chickens, grillée, with DOMMES jciale, die: feisisiocele ws CO Mushrooms ....0ss0-+ 132 Caper Sauce se ¢ «0 «sts «sid, 484 a la Turgue... ib. Captllaine ov is:sinis sgh sisis »» S53 a V’Hollandaise ib. Carp en Salmis, or Hash. 216 a la Provencale 133 stewed with Wine.. 217 aux Huitres.. ib. Carraway Biscuits....... 318 en. Haricot- Carriers’ Sauce, or Sauce VACTOCL. 06 25 vices coos 134 Robert ...... wise) cigieiael OA: aux Haricots Carrots in a Purée...... 229 VORUS is si6'siee ofo:slgecc e's oA BIE WER. Vi ec. ewe 20 au Celeri-..... 135 Carving, directions for.. 28 aux Choufleurs ib. Casserole of Rice....112, 140 Pie, plain..... 259 Caulifiowers 4 la Créme.. 229 or Fowl, forced ————.,, pickled..... 355 In Dey. 55:5 os ces ose cl cdae Celery Soup.....see.26. 55 Chocolate Cream........ 308 ~ Sauce............ 182 Citizens’ Soup.........5 64 - stewed a la Créme 232 Citron Cordial.........0. 351 with a Civet of Hare.......0++0 170 Toast...seececseeeeee ib. Cod, to.choose.......... 12 - en Gratin 233 Fish boiled........ 204 Chantilly Basket.....-+- 319 Codlings grillée......... 205 Charlotte of Apples.... 291 Coffee Cream........... 307 Chartreuse of Apples..... 290 » to roast.......- 308 Cherries in a Timbale .... 292 Collops of Cod ala Créme 205 preserved wet 339 with Rice ib. SEE dry 342 Common Vinegar.......+ 354 ——_—— in Brandy .... 336 Compote of Apples....... 290 bottled........ 334 + of Peaches..... 293 Cherry Cakes.....5.e0+ 272 Consommé oeceresecssese 46 Brandy......«0++ 350 Cow-heel, toboil........ 24 Juice, bottled.... 334 Cowslip Wine.....20.++ 343 ———— Wine.....++000+. 344 Crabs, to choose......-. 14 Jelly........02++ 298 CrawfishSoup.......... 71 Tce ...esec0ee6+ 331 Créme de Noyau........ 350 Chesnuts stewed........ 233 d’Orange ....... ib. ima Parée, 5.4: 1b, . Créme avillée... 5. «a seb ae Chickens, roasted......++ 78 Sauce.s.,c.00.0's ele d OO ala Macédoine. 130 Croquettes of Chicken... 143 ala Nelle...... ib. ————— of Partridge... 164 a ’Allemande.. 131 a la Royale.... 143 farce a |’Estra- Cucumbers a la Créme... 230 SOV y 55. bipsoip.sieiosers-aiaiaiors sie Ds - 2 l?Espagnole . 231 a l’Ecarlate.... ib. - en Gratin.... ib. Page Cucumbers 4 la Bourgeoise 232 - Sauce........ 186 - preserved -wet 339 Cumberland Pudding.... 284 Currant Tarteils atic.vcee O74 Jell ys... dswsver 299 Juice, bottled.... 334 Wine, .....ccses 344 Currants bottled ........ 334 in a Timbale.. 292 Curry, East India....... 360 -, another way ..... 360 Cuilets of Sturgeon grillée 196 Chicken grillée 141 D. Damsons preserved, wet. 340 dry. 343 — bottled ...... 335 —_——.. Jam ee@eoeetoee 336 ———— Wines. ss2%.. 347 — Water, Ice.... 831 Dauphine, Pigeons a la.. 153 Degrees of Sugar ...... 342 Dishes and Entrées of BIS. bldg eeserees 499 Distillation ....cecesess 347 Dorey boiled......20006 215 DDRODS. 4 :0:0s 5 diss dies oss GIG Drunkard’s Soup .....2. 66 Ducks, to choose ......+. 10 + MOASEE o0i55 ds ew ND stewed, with Red Cabbage coescsesevcee 148 farce a lEspag- HOLE. ss'de site ce eee wese PDS with a purée of Carrot cavers vince 249 a la Bretonne... ib. aux Légumes.... ib. —— ala Braize ..... 150 —— alOrange....... ib. —— en Salmis........ 151 a V’Estragon.... ib. 364 INDEX. Page Ducks aux Truffes ...... 152 grillée et Cham- PIGNONS 4o odo e!cisteie e152 in a Tureen with EASE Tetets leieicieisie wis ielotel BDe Dutch Sauce ......000. 181 E. East India Curry...... 360 POS AES DS 6 Eels, to choose ....-... 13 —— grilléesalItalienne 218 ——~ in a Matelotte..... ib. stewed al’Espagnole ib. Pi COMALET 6.01 shim o oot Bee Sane vance seeeccs. 182 —— jau Miroir, s/o... 0. « 244 oe OAGHEO s/claleat siacle, 1s —— withsorrel........ ib. ala Bourguinote.. ib. in Paste fried .... 245 —— with Anchovies .. ib. —— with Cream ...... ib. a la Suisse........ 246. —— and Anchovies in CU seine weds ose (OOS Elder Wine.....ccceces 345 —— Flower Wine .... ib. Water.... 352 Bndwe' SOUP sacteweaes se 5S ina Purée...... 234 stewed» o«2028.2 -ib. English Soup ....esees- 56 Entrées of Chicken ..... 129 Hepagnole sa hsevsiecs ss 46 F, Fillets of Veal ........ 76 ——inaRagott 104 of Chicken, sauté a Jad'Artoise........ - 138 ee eae | la Béchamelle...ecees. ibs. INDEX. Page Fillets of Chicken, sauté a la Maitre-d’Hotel .... 138 or with Endive .....+++ ib. —~— a VItalienne-.......e0% — a Fa: Rawisote; oic‘eoigierss «1D a Wa REMC: cieiereisce seca See —————.in Savory Jelly ..... coe 144 a in an Italian Salad ..... ib. —— of Partridge grillée 162 —— —— sau- Se osisten ellos ————_— en Attelets ....0eeces« 163 of Rabbits en Attelets ...csccccces 167 té a lI talienne — a Ja Maréchale ........ ib. of Hare aux PIUHES) ) users ccigid weit ded a ole lés aux Coucombres ..- ib. of Sturgeon, with young Peas .. ses 196 ala Maitre-d’Hotel ...... 197 ala Turque .ceccceeeess ib. —— - with TarragonaSauce .... ib. of Turbot sauté a PAurore ..cceccesses 200 with Mushrooms..cecesees iD. —_—_-—_—— grillés 2014 of Salmon au Beurre d’Anchois ... 203 ala Ravigote « . oss00i00 00%) iD. I 365 Page Fillets of Salmon in an Italian Salad........ 203 of Soles, fried .. 207 grillés.. ib. pea sauté a ja Purée d’Oseille.... 208 a Vita- lienne blanche ........ ib. of Whitings, fried ib, —_ gril- lée with sharp Sauce.. 209 ————. sau- té aux Nouilles ...... ib. with Cucumbers.........- ib. —_—— ina Mince a la Créme.... 210 ——— of Mackerel 4 V’I- talienne: ...6.e0 cc evs QAI a served cold. .Uie.'s ews ADs of Herrings a 1l’Es- TALON. wcidis a's 0's vlsiatwa Sto Finger-drops, or Biscuits 347 Firing, vide Preface. Fish, in Season ........ 2 aa «tO CHOOSE, setae. o Ad Flemish Soup .......... Forcemeat for raised Pies 247 of Veal ...... 248 Fore-quarter of Lamb Toasted, (os. choses he eG Fowls roasted....ssee0- 77 —— withTruffies 135 French Beans, to Pickle. 358 French Soup ...+esse0s 63 Fricandeau de Veau a la Purée d’Oseille...... 103 —with PEAS... 6 2eisdicie searaenes ib.. —_—__—__- -—— with Asparagus Peas.,.... ib. ee ——with a Purée of Turnips .. 104 oo. —— Page Fricassée of Chicken with Mushrooms...ccececce —al’I- talienne ...... —-— en Haricot-vierge ...... —_——_—_—__—_—_—— aux petits: Pols .....2.... Fruits in Season ...... in Brandy ...... G. Game Soup eveceseccacs Garbure, three ways.... Garden Soup, or a la Jar- GHCEC RSENS wove 6% os Gateau de Levraut..... —alaCréme .... ——— de Prussien .... de Cerise ...... MB SOME esse sle'sle de Madeleine .. de Chocolat..... de Rosquelle .. —~— de Boulogne.... Geese to choose —— roasted ... 22006 German Pudding ...... Ciblet PIE oss eee ee Gingerbread Nuts ...... ————- Cake ...... Ginger Cakes ...cecsece Ginger Ice-cream ...... WANES. Mean cess Girkins pickled........ GUC bo dicwce os epee 4 - for glazing Meat.. Glazed Chesnut-pie .... Gooseberries in open Tart — bottled .... ee 136 137 ib. 4, 336 67 227 53 172 270 272 ib. 274, 275 ib. 276 269 10 78 282 260 321 ib. 320 330 346 355 46 47 272 293 333 preserved wet 340 Gooseberry Fool, or with 2 a rr Bones Ss So ees 293 244. INDEX. Page Gooseberry Jelly .....04. GrapeTart... cere dees TIRE bn gin, boehe nce Gratin of Sturgeon .... of Chicken .... Gravy for roast Meat .. Green Apricots bottled.. Gages in Brandy.. 328 271 347 197 143 188 333 337 preserved wet 338 dry Green Pea Soup «...... Guinea Fowls roasted .. Gum Paste ...cccsacees H. Haddocks grillés ...... boiled 4 la Hol- land aise corse onc co Ham roasted ...cccccce Hams to choose ....0.- tO'Doils 546.66 wie’ Hard Dumplings ...... Hare to choose ..cessce au chevreuil ...... en Salmis, or Hash . en Ragott ...,..4.6 pe oar ae Civet e@e@eeeeeneeee@ Wake Me seein kbs roasted’ 2.306 ccs es Harricot of Mutton .... Hasty Pudding ........ Haunch of Muttonroasted Health Soup ..cscecece Herrings to choose .... broiled ...... stewed wesc I. Tee Creams. vice et JealusieRenversée .... Jellies and Creams.....- Jerusalem Artichokes .. Indian Pickle, or Picca- YO Cue cisaretes ek B41 210 INDEX. 367 Page Page John Dorey boiled .... 215 Leg of Mutton toboil.. 22 —————. alaCréme. ib. of Pork with Peas- Isinglass to clarify .... 297 PUACIBG occie 6c eerie 194 Ttalian Jelly ..ceereses 299 Cream ......-. 306 another way ib. SAUCe cee ow OU for Salads 188 K. Ketchup to make ...... 191 Kitchen Accounts, Direc- tions for keeping them 15 Range, vide Pre- face. Lamb to choose «....00. 8 Cutlets en Epi- QVAMME ceoecrereecee 120 with Aspa- Tagus Peas oo co0cceo0 121 —— grillés with Mushrooms.......e2-. ib. with Cu- CUIMDETS Saco sae wcesce 1D: ——_—_—__—_—. with Len- tile Purée .....cacee 122 with Let- tuce Purée......... aig - 123 Large rich Currant-cake 329 Larks dressed and gar- NISHEMGS Fs sie rels wrresare cet AOL Lavender Water.....+e6 352 Leeks ona Toast ......:235 Leg of Lamb stewed with PCAs. crise - 117 —_—_——_————- with Spinage ...e...se00. ib. with a Purée of Lettuce... with nueeiele cree LNs esceeoeeren 118 Cucumbers .. with a Pu- rée of green Peas .... ib. Lemon Drops .....+22-+ 315 Wafers ........ 324 Peel preserved wet 339 WaterIce...... 331 Lemon Jelly ......+... 300 Lentile Soup ........+. 60 4 la Dame Si- Lettuce a MONO) sieicicwisiaisiessivivioiems os ina Purée...... ib. ——— stewed SOUP | asicien gee o--D5 in Purée .. 57 Lobsters, to choose...... 14 Sauces io.c sees ud 90 inan Italian Salad 220 in Savory Jelly... ib. Loin of Lamb a la Ke- ‘QDODPED, 6» sis o:0¢.0:cee kon 490 Loin of Veal a la Bécha- e@exearve0e ib. MELE oié.5 sdsccienager don a lEspag- nole ..... soft aiareters uO with a Ra- SOUL +0 0+ s pmesis eesti Lozenges ..ceceseceress 316 M. Mackerel broiled ...... 211 botle@ eo. /ese.'e Pil, Mangoes pickled ...... 359 Mince Sturgeon a la Por- CUGaiSe FP. a anne bom Chicken with Legs broiled. 0% 5.250.000 142 in a Tim- Dale: ss .s.s.2 sts ae ee Ties Mint Sauce.....s..002. 185 Mock. Turtle nna cticce 50 Mushrooms pickled .... 356 2A 368 INDEX. Page Mushroom Sauce a lEs- pagnole ..cccoccccoe 180 white with Create seve. <> the stewed ...0.+ 235 large broiled... 236 smallalaCréme ib. en Gratin .... ib. en Marinade HPIOG ¢ F:6-4:5 64 bie dra eee LOE Mutton, to choose...... 7 Saddle, roasted . 75 a la Bre- LODBE «540 calc cn sine ce” 90 — Haunch of, roasted 75 Fillets of, au Chie- WLOUWIL DS $id a Bi csee eee Ot Neck of, au Che- VIEUI PK 6s cbs eiewte cs ID. Cutlets, grillés.. 92 sautée a la Purée de Pommes de Werpeicesais séeclses 93 glacée with Turnips ........ ib. --—_—_—__—_—. with a Purée of Turnips .... 94 —_——_———— ina Har- HiCOts 2 6056p 4c 8eas0es id, PIC 556 aeseaccce 260 N. Nageoires de Tortue.... 50 Nuasturtiums to pickle .. 357 Neck of Veal ala Créme. 99 ala Royale 100 ——_—_—_——-piqué gla- cée with Sorrel ...... 100 a la Saint- Beal <3 osc eadeesen 400 Nectarines to bottle .... 336 O. Observations on Bottling 332 on Distilling 347 Page Omelettes...ecccceseess 243 Soufiée ...... 280 Onion Soup, white .... 68 Sauce, white .... 182 ——— brown.... 183 Onions and Beet in a Salad. ..cceccvsceess Zar coh Wa eee rae ——— to pickle ...... 357 Orange Jelly cerceerese 300 Drops..ceeccere 315 Flower Drops... ib. Wafers .cceceee 325 Water Ice.....- 330 Peels preserved, WOE ccccaavecsveccse OOD —______— preserved, dried ©... s.ccecccece G42 Wine ,.cccereee 346 Oysters to choose ..ee++ 14 Sauce «s.eecceses 189 ina Gratin .... 22t to promote their Digestion ..ceeseese 14 PP: Pain i la Duchesse .... 268 Pancakes ala Francaise . 286 alItalienne .. 287 ————— plain ........ ib. Parsnips ....cceseseses 239 Parsley, fried ......+.+.. 240 Partridges with Truffles . 160 with red Cab- Page lcs eag:8 tS 6. dees ala Lune .-.. 161 © alItalienne .. ib. en Salmis, or | Laie ieeiubeepampr, Shae Lee grillée with Mush- TOOMS mreiepnate PO? Patés de Genoisse ...... 275 Peach ia 301 Cream .seec0-+ 309 Peach Water [ce ...... 330 Peaches in Brandy...... 337 bottled ........ 3 Peaches ina Compote .. 293 in a Timbale .... 294 Pears stewed..e.e.ecces id. CreAMe cease Cone Peas plain boiled ...... stewed a la Fran- CAISE. 66 a4 sis pulses Coe ala Bourgeoise.... ib. ina Purée .....+e. ib. Peppermint Drops ....»- 316 ———————. Lozenges .. ib. Wafers woo 325 Water.....- 351 Cordial .... ib. ——_———— Essence.... 352 Perch boiled .....ccees 217 a Hollandaise .... ib. —— in Fillets fried .... ib. ala Ravigote...... Petits Bouches ...evses 275 Patés ala Reine... 249 de Godiveau ib. aux Légumes 250 de Faisan aux eyactie theless ei mieisic ued a ’Espagnole ib. de Ris de sisisteisislerst God ———— of Chicken Livers and Truffles .. ib. of Veal Force- MEAL 6s eas asteisesle we IDs 265 e@eseadeae0 Trufies.. Veau of Soles .... ib. Of Pike. ib. ofsLobsters . ib. of Oysters.. 253 of Shrimps.. ib. Petits choux-garnis .... 268 a la d’Ar- LOISE 5:5 sea sels Guaveints «> 269 ala Reine’ ib. ———_—————— Meringues ib. Pheasants to choose .... 10 roasted ...... 7% with Truffles . 158 with Celery .. ib. farce a VEs- pagnoles: ooo eo viaseas FAO & VItalienne.. ib. in Fillets .... 159 avAllemande. ib. ala Turque .. ib. —_—— en Gratin .... 160 Pickled Herrings ...... 213 Salmon .....cee 204 Pickling Peaeeceeoevedtooae 353 Pig roasted ....eeee+- 126 a lapierre Donilette ib. Pettitoes a la Sainte- Menehould ...e--cee- 127 Feetand Ears boiled 24 Pigeon to choose ...... 9 Pi cieatereresarsis oeti De ——— roasted ..scccee VY farce al’Estragon 153 ala Dauphine .. ib. ala Lune; s.sees abs aux Truffes .... 154 en Compote .... ib. au Court-bouillon ib. en Marinade .... 155 en Ragoit. grillés with Mush- ~ FOOMS . 40:5;¢ 05,6 deme s s.0 L500 AVAllemand .. ib. 2A 2 : im 370 INDEX, Page Page Patience Biscuits ...... 317 Potage A lAnglaise .... 56 Pigeon farce a |’Hollan- du Printems.... ib, GaIse -..cegaeace cece LOT a la Purée de Pigeons aux Quenelles a TAMUOR evans seeeces OT l’Espagnole.....+..1+ 157 a la Purée de Pike boiled......seeeee 215 Pois verts’ .......... ib. bakedcocae ee IDs for —— grillés as Cutlets .. 216 WID(GE usa codesesc cs 58 en Filets sauté .... ib. ala Queensberry 59 Pine Jelly ....2...e00- 303 -———au Faubonne.... ‘ib. ina Compote .... 294 de Printanier .. ib. Sugar wsacsecs ss S14 a la Purée de |~ Plaice with Dutch Sauce 208 PCRS Cees gieessis ss OO a VEspagnole.... ib. AOMIZ sso sn yee, IDs Plain Ice Cream ...... 330 au Vermicelli ,. ib. Plain Sauce, or Sauce a MOUDHCE’. 553 hacs oss 178 VAllemande ........ 62 Salad with the Sauce 249 ala Reine...... 61 Plum Cream ....eee0++ 309 au Rizala Reine 62 Pudding ........ 284 a la Purée d’O- Cae ys fie yee ab: ROMIG Ee ccna ss sce ADL | Plums to bottle .....+.6' 335 a VEspagnole.... 63 | in Brandy ...... 337 ala Francaise .. ib. Pork to choose .....062 8 ala Bourgeoise.. 64 POasted 455.5. .5° 76 de Santé ...... 65 Cutlets 4 la Sauce alVIvrogne...... 66 BOQDC eres cence 104 aux Asperges .. ib. withOnions 125 ala Purée de Gi- a la Bre- DICT Scenes tse ies cak OF TONNE” ccccescesscece id. alaCourt-bouillon 68 Ie 10 nose eho Mnins eco 256 auxOignons-Rlanc ib> Sausages ........ 128 a la Sainte-Mene- Portable Soup.......... 46 BOWE coer cast vagne 69 Potage Alagambe de Bois 50 ala Flamande .. ib. ala Camerons.... 141 de l’Esturgeon.. 70 aux Legumes.... 51 d’Ecrevisses .... 71 ala Jardiniére .. 53 Potatoes ina Purée .... 238 a laJulienne.... ib. in different ways 238 aVHochepot.... 54 Poularde aux Truffes :. 135 aux Navets .... ib, aux Quenelles ala Purée de Ce- OB WeO0.. sc uueiee rid. BRL e's ccs ccweahec cen ae ala Financiére 136 ——-— aux Laitues .... ib. PouliryandGameiuSeason i . au Chicorés .... ib. ——-——tochoose. .... 9 INDEX. 371 Page Page Prawns to dress ...++--- 219 Rock Sugar of different and Shrimps to COlOUFS seevensece 313 PKCHOOBE.. seersicecccveeids (Bose Waters 25. cases (OCD Puff Paste ..s0+-0e++ 263 Rose Water... .».+-464+ 352 Punch 4 1a Romaine, or Réiti sans Pareil...... CoB Roman Punch nee eee 332 Q. Quails roasted ...ce- e080 Quarter, fore, of Lamb TOASTEG = cic scares 1 40 Queen Cakes .cccscsees 319 Quinces stewed ....... - 294 ina Marmalade 295 R. Rabbits to choose ...»..- 14 roasted ...sece 51189 boiled with Onion SAUCE: «5 sictotnaielh'sleveealOD with brown Onion Sauce wcossesvcosece IDs —inaFricassée .. 166 &VItalienne .... ib. Raised Pie hot ........ 255 French, cold ib. Raisin Wine ...+.+..+2 346 Ramaquins .....2.2000+ 270 Raspberry or. Currant Dumplings .....+e+e. 286 “ Raspberry Jam ...e+e++ 326 —— Jelly ....2+05 328 Juice bottled . 334 Ratafia Biscuits........ 318 de Cerise, ....+. 330 Red Cabbage pickled .. 356 Red Uerrings broiled .. 314 another way ib. Remoulade Sauce ...... 191 Rhubarb to bottle .... 333 Rice Soup <2 2) clécinssss +60 ————- a4laReine.... 6% Pudding..... vceee 283 Risoles ala d’Artoise .. 264 ee. Ruffs and Rees roasted.. 80 Rusks @eoeoveneneoeteen ee ene 321 Ss. Salmis or Hash.-..0++0. 173 au Bernardin..., 174 Salmon, to choose....... 19% boiled .....s.00. 204 baked with Pike SAUCE. .)<