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 ART of COOKERY 
 
 hain Imitation of 
 
 "Horace: $ dri f Poeitj. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
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 RE PLE 
 
 Art of Dido. 
 
 In Imitation of 
 
 i Horace’ s Art of Poetry. 
 
 LETTERS 
 
 E 7m*9 34. 
 Dr. LIST E R, and Others: 
 Occafi 1on d principally by the Title of 
 
 . a Book publifh’d by the Do&or, being the 
 Works of Apicius Coelius, 
 
 Concerning the Soups and Sauces f tbe. 
 ‘ Antients. 
 
 With an Extra& of the greateft Curiofities contain'd 
 in that Book. | 
 To which is added, 
 
 Horace’s Art of Poetry, in Latin. 
 
 
 
 
 
 By the Author of tbe fourney to LONDON. 
 
 Humbly inferib’d to the Honourable BEEF 
 J STEAK CLUB. 
 
 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for Bernarp LiwToTT at the Crofs-| 
 Keys between the two Temple Gates in FJeez- | 
 ftreet. | 
 
 
 
 
 
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 ii 
 
 PUBLISHER. 
 
 EMO T is now a Days the hard Fate of 
 P fuch as pretend to be Authors, that 
 they are not permitted to be Maflers 
 
 we of their own Works; for if fuch 
 wever imperfect) as may be called 
 
 @ Copy of them, either by a Servant or any 
 other Means come to the Hands of a Book (eller, 
 he ne'er confiders whether it be for the Perfon's 
 | S M Reputation 
 
 
 
 
 
"The Pustisner to the REapER. 
 
 Reputation to come into the World, whether 
 "tis agreeable to bis Sentiments, seberbep to bis 
 Stile or Corre&inefs, or baba be bas for e 
 time lokd over itj nor doth be care what 
 
 Name or Chara&ler ^ puts to it, Es be Joao J 
 
 be may get by thes) NE i. 
 
 - 
 
 It was the Fate of the es Pe oem to "e 
 
 B fo usd, and Printed with as much ies ad | 
 
 CHion, and as naa Miftakes as 4 Book feller 
 that bá common Senfe cou'd imagine foow d pafs 
 upon the Town, efpecially in an Age ^ He 
 and critical as the prefent. 
 
 Thefe following | Letiers and. Poi mere at 
 tbe P refs fome time before the other Paper pee 
 tending to the fame Title was crept out: And 
 
 
 
 they bad elfe, as the Learned fay, groan d-under — 
 
 the Prefs til fuch time as the Sheets. bad « one 
 by one been perus d and corvehed , mot only by 
 the Author, but bis Friends , whofe Fudgment 
 as he is fenfible be: wants , fo he is proud. to 
 own that they fometimes conde eee to p 
 ford bim. | 
 
 X 
 
 y cow Aa 
 
 & 
 
2 
 
 The PüsrisuER to the Reaper? 
 
 For many Faults that at firft feem {mall, - 
 yet create unpardonable Errors, and the Num- 
 ber-of tbe Verfe turns upon tbe Harfbnefs of a 
 Syllable, and the laying Stref{s upon improper 
 
 Words, will make the moft correct Piece ridi- 
 -eulous : Falfe Concord, Tenfes and Grammar, 
 
 - ANonfenfe, Impropriety and Confufion, may go 
 
 down with fome Perfons, but it fbould not be 
 in the Power of a Book feller to lampoon an Au- 
 thor, and tell him you did write all this, I 
 have got it, and you fball ftand to the Scaa- 
 dal, and I will have the Benefit: Yet this is 
 the prefent Cafe, notwithftanding there are above 
 
 | threefcore Faults of this nature , Verfes tranf- 
 
 pos d, fome added, others alter d, or rather that 
 
 ould have been alterd, and near forty omit. 
 ted. The Author does uot value bimfelf. upon 
 the whole, but if be fbews bis Efteem for Ho- 
 face, and can by any means provoke Perjons to 
 read fo ufeful a Treatife; if be fbews his Aver- 
 fion to the Introduction of Luxury, which may 
 tend to the Corruption of Manners, and declare 
 
 - bis Love to the old Britih Hofpitality, Chari- 
 
 ty and Valour, when the Arms of the Family, 
 Me MAE ' the 
 
The PusLISHER to the READER) 
 
 tbe old Piles, Muskets and Halberds bung up 
 in the Hall over the long Table, and the Mar. 
 row Bones lay on the Floor, and Chivey Chafe 
 and the Old Courtiet of the Queen's were — 
 placd over the Carv’d Mantle Piece; and the 
 Beef and Brown Bread were carried every Dayto 
 the Poor, he defires little farther than that the 
 Reader Joni for the future give all | fuch Book: 1 
 i fellers as are before {poke of - uo manner - En: 1 
 
 Ccoura gener á 
 
 
 

 
 » 
 
 
 
 AN 
 
 ES) 
 
 P 
 X cu he 
 NC (uem 
 
 t S EN PN 
 Wy yt, 
 
 
 
 
 jj wi 
 sm 
 
 Pere Rs 
 Dr Lifer, and Others. 
 
 
 
 1 ; Mx. e 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 SNXeeH E Happincls of hearing now 
 X and then from you. extremely 
 delights me ; for, I muft con- 
 fefs, moft of my ‘other Friends 
 a are. fo much taken up with Po- 
 liticks, or Speculations, that either their 
 Hopes, or Fears, give thee little Leifure 
 to perufe Íuch parts of Learning as lye 
 remote, 
 
 
 
4 LETTERS 
 
 remote, and are fit only for the Clofets of 
 
 the Cutidüs, How bleft are you at London, 
 where you have new Books of all forts! whilft 
 we at a greater diftance, being deftitute of 
 fuch Improvements, muft content our felves 
 with the old Store, and thumb the Clafficks, 
 
 as if we were never to get ros than our 
 Tully or our Virgil. E IM 
 
 You tantalize me only, when you tell me 4 
 of the Edition of a Book by the ingenious 
 Dr. Lifter, which you fay isa Treatife De 
 Condimentis CO O ponis Veterum, Of the Sauces 
 and Soups of the Antients, as T take it. Give 
 
 me leave to ufe an Expreffi on, which, tho". 
 
 vulgar, yet upon this occafion is juft, and 
 proper, you have made my Mouth Water, 
 but have not fent me wherewithal to fatisfie 
 my Appetite. 
 
 I have rais’d a thoufand Notions to my .| 
 felf only from the Title: Where could fuch — 
 a Treafure lye hid? What Manufcripts have 
 been collated ? Under what Emperor. Was £^ 
 wrote? Might it not have been in the Reign 
 
Dr, Lifter, and others. 2 
 of Heliogabalus , who; tho’ vicious, and in 
 fome things fantaftical, yet was not incurious 
 
 A in the grand Affair of Eating ? 
 
 —Confider, dear Sir, in what Uncertainties 
 
 — we muft remain at prefent; you know my 
 
 Neighbour Mr. Greatorix 1s a learned Antiquary, 
 X (hew'd him your Letter, which threw him, 
 into fuch a Dubioufnefs, and indeed Per- 
 plexity of Mind, that the next Day he durft 
 not put any Catcbup 4n his Fifb Sauce, nor 
 have his beloved Pepper, Oy! and Enon with 
 his Partridge, left before he had feen Dr. Li- 
 fler's Book he might tran{grefs in ufing fome- 
 thing not common to the Zztzezt». . 
 
 — Difpatcli it therefore to us with all Speed, 
 for I expect Wonders from it. Let me tell 
 you; I hope, in the firft place, it will, in 
 fome meaíure, remove the Barbarity al our 
 prefent Pbnitidid? : For what hopes can 
 there be of any Progrefs in Learning, whilft 
 our Gentlemen fuffer their Sons at Weftuzin- 
 fler, Eaton, and W inchefler to cat nothing 
 but Salt with their Mutton, and Vinegar with 
 
 B 2 their 
 
4 LETTERS 
 
 their Roaft Beef upon. Holidays ? What Ex- 
 tenfivenefs can there be in their Souls? Eipe- 
 cially when upon their going thence to the - 
 Univerfi ity, their Knowledge in Culinary Mat- 
 ters is feldom enlarg'd ; and their Diet con- 
 
 tinues very much the fame; and as to Sauces — 
 
 they are in proc Ignorance. ical 
 | It were to be with’d therefore; dat every 
 Family had a Frexch Tutor; for befides his be- — 
 ing Groom, Gardiner Butler, and Valet, you . 
 would fee thar he vis egdned “ames ‘greater 
 Accomplifhment; for according to an antient 
 Author, Quot Galli, totidem Coqui, As many 
 Frenchmen vas you babies fo many Cooks you. 
 may depend upon s which is very ufeful where 
 there is a numerous Iffue : And T doubt not, 
 but with fuch Tutors; and good Houfc- 
 keepers, to provide Cake and Swect-meats; | 
 together with the tender Care of an indulgent 
 Mother, to fee thatthe Children eat and drink 
 every thing that they call for; “I doubt not, 
 I fay, but we may have a Watlike and Fru. 
 gal Gentry, a Temperate and Anftere Cler. 
 ey; and fuch Perlons of Quality, in all Sta- 
 
 tions, 
 
 * 
 
— Dr. Lifter, and others. 5 
 tions, as may beft undergo the Fatigues of our 
 Fleet and Armies. . 
 
 — — Pardon me, Sir, if I break off abruptly, 
 - for L am going to Monfreur d' Avaux, a Períon 
 — famous for eafing the Tooth-ach by Avulfion ; 
 he has promis d to fhew me how to firike a 
 ‘Lancet into the Jugular of a Carp, fo as the 
 Blood may iffue thence with the greateft Ef- 
 fufion, and then will infiantly perform the 
 . Operation of ftewing it in its own Blood, in 
 the prefence of my felf, and feveral more 
 Virtuofi: But let him ufe what Claret he 
 will in the Performance, I will fecure enough 
 to drink your Health, and the reft of your 
 Friends, ae 
 
 I remain, Sir, Ove. 
 
 B 3 To 
 
6 bETRERS® 
 
 To Mr , ems 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Shall make bold to claim your Pronife a 
 B in your laft obliging Letter, to obtain | 
 the Happinefs of my Cortefpondence with 
 ‘Dr. Lifter; and to that end have fent you . 
 the enclosd, to be communicated to him, if 
 you think convenient. 
 
 
 
 
 
 To Dr. Lifter, prefent. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 H Ama plan Man, and therefore never ufe 
 *"| Compliments ; bit I muft tell you, that 
 j have a great Ambition to hold a Correfpon- 
 dence with you, efpecially that I may beg 
 
 
 
 |. ‘you to communicate your Remarks from the 
 
 bn Antients, concerning Denmtifcalps , vulgarly 
 call'd Tooth- “picks. ] take the nfe of the 
 to. 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 7 
 
 — €o have been of great Antiquity, and the 
 Original to come from the Infün& of Na. 
 - ture, which is the beft Miftrefs upon all oc- 
 gions. .. The Egyptians were a People ex- 
 cellent for their Philofophical and Mathema- 
 tical Obfervations, they fearch'd into all the 
 Springs of Action; and tho’ I muft condemn 
 — their Superfüition, I cannot but applaud their 
 Inventions. This People had a vaft Diftri& 
 that worlhipp’d the Crocodile , which is an 
 Animal, whofe Jaws being very oblong, 
 give hui the Opportunity of having a great 
 many Teeth; and his Habitation and Bufi- 
 
 . mels lying moft i in the Water, he, like our 
 
 modern Dutcb-whitfters in Sidhe: dr: had a 
 very good Stomach, and was extremely vo- 
 patiouh! vAt.is cortain that he; had the Water 
 of Nile always ready, and confequently the 
 Opportunity of wafhing his Mouth after 
 Meals; yet he had farther occafion for other 
 Inftruments to cleanfe his Teeth, which are 
 ferrate, or like a Saw. To this end Nature 
 has provided an Animal call'd the Ichneumon, 
 which performs this Office, and is fo main- 
 fain by the Produ& of its own Labour. 
 
 B 4 The 
 
a Rp TTE RS 10 
 
 The Eit feeing fuch an aera Sagacity - 
 in the Crocodile which they {o much reve. . 
 rencd, foon began to imitate it: Great Ex-. 
 amples eafily draw; ing the Maltitude, fo that 
 3t became rheir conftant Coftom, to pick their 
 Teeth, and wath their’ Motiths after eating. — 
 I cannot find in Marfbünr's. Dynafties, " nor in 
 the Fragments of Maneibon, what Year of the. 
 Moon, (for I hold the Egyptian Yéars to have 
 been Ey "ar, that is, but of a Month’s conti- | 
 nuance) fo NesMtatile! an Ufage firft began : 
 For it is the fault. of great Philologers to 
 omit fuch things as are moft material. Whi- 
 ther Sefofiris in his large Conquefts might 
 extend the ufe of them, is as uncertain; for 
 the glorious Actions of. thofe’ Ages lie very 
 much in the dark : It is very probable that 
 the publick ufe of them came in about the 
 fame time that the Egyptians made ule of 
 Furies. - Y find, ia the Preface to the Third 
 Part of Modern Reports, ** That the Chaldeés 
 * had a great Efteem for the number Twelve, 
 « becaufe there were fo many Signs of the 
  Zodiack; from them this Number came to — 
 4 the TT 3 and i to-Greece, where: 
 
 & * Mars 
 K^ sig 
 
: Dr. Lifter, aud others. 9 
 
 — € Mars himfelf was try'd for a Murther, and 
 © was acquitted. Now it does not appear 
 - upon Record, nor any Stone, that I have feen, 
 |» whether the Fury club'd, or whether Mars 
 treated them at Dinner, tho'it-is mol likely | 
 that he did; for he was ‘Buta quarrelfome fort 
 of Perfon, and probably, tho’ acquitted , 
 might be as guilty as Count Coningfmark. 
 . Now the Cuftom of Furies dining at an 
 Eating-houfe, and having Glaffes of Water 
 brought them with Tooth- picks, üngd with 
 . Vermillion fwimming at the top, being fiill 
 continued; why may we not imagine, That 
 the Tooth picks were as antient as the Dinzer, 
 the Dinner as the Furies, and the Furies at 
 leaft as the Grandchildren of Mitzraim ° Ho- 
 mer makes this Heroes feed fo grofly, that 
 they. feem to have had. more occafion for 
 Scewers than Goofequills. He is very tedious 
 -àn defcribing a Smith's Forge, and an Anvil; 
 whereas he might have been more polite ih 
 fetting out the op tb-pick-cafe or painted Suuff- 
 Box of Achilles; if chat Age had not been fo 
 barbarous as to want them. And here T can- 
 ne but confi der, that Ai bens in the time of 
 ^ : Pericles, 
 
so ||| oGLbId ERADEM 
 
 Pericles, when it flourifh'd moft in fumptuous — 
 Buildings, and Rome in its Height of Em- 
 . pire from Auguftus down to Adrian, had no- 
 thing that equall'd the Royal or New Exchange, 
 or Pope’s-bead Alley for Curiofities and Toy- 
 foops; neither had their Senate any thing to 
 alleviate their Debates concerning the Affairs 
 of the Univerfe like Raffling fometimes at 
 Gollonel Parfons’s. Although the Egyptians | 
 often. extended their Conquefts into Africa 
 and Eibiopia, and tho’ the Cafre Blacks have 
 very fine Teeth ; yet I cannot find that they | 
 make ule of any fuch Inftrument ; nor does 
 Ludolfus, tho’ very exact as to the Abyffine 
 Empire, give any account of a matter fo im- 
 portant ; for which he is to blame, as I fhall 
 íhew in my Treatife of Forks and Napkins , 
 of which I fhall fend you an Effay with all 
 Expedition. I fhall in that Treatife: fully il. 
 luftrate, or confute this Paffage of Dr. Hey- 
 lin, in the third Book of his Cofmograpby , 
 where he fays of the Chinefe, That they eat 
 their Meat with two Sticks of Ivory, Ebony, 
 or the like; mot touching it with their Hands 
 at all, and therefore no great Foulers of Linnen, 
 
 The 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 11 
 
 The ufe of Silver Forks with us, by fome of 
 our {pruce Gallants taken up of late, came from 
 hence into Ytaly, and from thence into England. 
 I cannot agree with this Learned Doctor in 
 many of thefe Particulars, For firft the ufe 
 of thefe Sticks is not fo much to fave Lin- 
 nen, as out of pure Neceflity, which arifes 
 from the length of their Nails, which Perfons 
 of great Quality in thofe Countries wear at 
 a prodigious length, to prevent all poffibility 
 of working, or being ferviceable to them. 
 felves or others; and therefore if they would, 
 ‘they could not eafily feed themfelves with 
 ‘thofe Claws; and I have very good Autho- 
 rity that in the Eaff, and efpecially in Fapan, 
 the Princes have the Meat put into their 
 Mouths by their Attendants. Befides, thefe 
 Sticks. are of no ufe but for their fort of 
 Meat, which being Pilas, is all boil'd to 
 Rags. But what would thofe Sticks fignifie 
 to carve a Turkey-cock, or a Chine of Beef ? 
 Therefore our Forks are of quite different 
 Shape, the Steel ones are Bidental, and the 
 Silver generally refembling Tridents ; which 
 ‘makes me think them to be as ancient as the 
 
 | Saturuian 
 
 * 
 
7 LETTERS 
 
 | Saturnian Race, where the former is appro= 
 priated to Pluto , and the latter to Neptune. 
 It is certain dac Pedro Della Vaile, that fa- 
 mous Italian Traveller, carried his Knife and 
 Fork into the Eaft Indies, and he gives a large. 
 Account how at the Coürt of an: Indian Prince: 
 he was admired for. his ANeatnefs i in that. par- 
 ticular, and his Care in wiping that, and his 
 Knife, ;befüfe he return'd them to their refpe-. 
 ctive Repofi tories. I-could wifh Dr. Worton, 
 in the next Edition of his Modern. Learning, 
 would fhew us how much we are improvd. 
 fince Dr. Heylin’ s time, and tell us the Ori. 
 ginal of Ivory Bieboed with which young 
 Heirs. are fuffer'd. to mangle their own Pud. 
 ding; as likewife of Silver and Gold Knives, 
 - brought in with the Defert for Carving el. 
 lies and Orange-Butter ; and the indifpenfable 
 Neceffity of a Silver Knife, at the Side-Board 
 to mingle Sallads with, asis with great Learn- 
 ing made out in a Treats call’'d: Acetaria’, 
 concerning Dreffing of Sallads. A feos 
 Work! But.I tranferefs ~aaeens | 
 
 - 
 »- " By 
 4 7 r 
 
Dr. ‘Liner: and Me A s 
 
 And yet firn me, pood Do&ior, I had 
 bina forgot a thing that I would not have 
 done for the World, it is fo remarkable. I 
 think I may be pofitive from this Verfe of 
 E , where he {peaks of the Egyptians, 
 
 | Porrum e cape ho violare, e P ae a. 
 gr eo i | 
 
 That it was Satrilege to ib a Bick or bite 
 an Onion: Nay, I believe that it amounts to 
 a Demonftration, That Pharaob-Necho could 
 have no true Lenten Porridge, nor any Car- 
 riers Sauce to his Mutton; the true Receipt 
 of making which Sauce I have from an an- 
 tient MS. remaining at the Bull Inu in Bifbop[- 
 gate-fireet, which Runs thus: ‘* Take feven 
 * Spoonfuls of Spring Water, flice two 
 * Onions of moderate Size into a large Sau- 
 ‘cer, and put in as much Salt as you can 
 hold at thrice betwixt your Fore-finger and 
 Thumb, if large, and ferve it up. Pro- 
 batum eft, Hobfon Carrier to the Univerfity of 
 penne 
 
 ec 
 cc 
 cc 
 
 The 
 
I4 LETTERS 10 
 
 _ The Effigies of that worthy Perfon remains 
  füllat that Inn; and I dare fay, that not 
 only Hobfon, but old Birch, and many others 
 of that mufical and delightful Profeffion , 
 would rather have been Labourers at the Py- 
 ramids with that Regale, than to have reign d 
 at Memphis, and have been debarr'd of it. Y 
 break off abruptly. Believe me an Admirer 
 of your Worth, and a Follower of your 
 Methods towards the encreafe of e 
 and more efpecially | 
 Tour, Ore. 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 To Mr. es | 
 
 SIR 
 
 Am now very feriouíly cautloy’ d ina 
 Work that, I hope, may be ufeful to the 
 Publick, which.is'a Poem -abthie Art of Cookery, 
 in Imitation of Horace’s Art of Poetry, infcrib'd 
 to Dr. Lifter, as hoping it may be in time 
 
 read 
 

 
 Dr. Lifter, and others. 15 
 a" as a preliminary to his Works : but I 
 have not Vanity enough to think it will live 
 fo long. I have in the mean time fent you 
 an Imitation of Horace his Invitation of Tor- 
 quatur to Supper, which is the 5th Epiftle 
 of his firft Book. Perhaps you will find fo 
 many Faults in this, that you may fave me 
 _the Trouble of my other Propofal, but how- 
 ever take it asit is. 
 
 If Bellvill can his gen'rous Soul confine 
 
 To afmall Room, few Dithes, and fome Wine, 
 ‘T fhall expe& my Happinefs at Nine. 
 Two Bottles of fmooth Pain, or Anjou white, 
 Shall give a Welcome, and prepare Delight. 
 Then for the Bourdeaux you may freely afk, 
 But the Champaigne is to each Man his Flafk. 
  ltell you with what Force I keep the Field, 
 And if you can exceed it, fpeak, TII yield. 
 | The Snow-white Damafk Enfigns are difplay’d, 
 . And glitt’ring Salvers on the Side-board lid. — 
 I d Thus 
 
6 wWETTERS ts 
 Thus we'll difperfe all bufie Thoughts and Cares, ! 
 
 : The General's Counfels, and the Statefman' s Feats: 
 
 " DET ARTT 4 a 
 DT ERE" RUM ee eee we WIRT. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Nor fhall Sleep reign in that precedent Night, 
 Whofe joyful Hours lead on the. glorious Light, 
 Sacred to Britifh Worth ih  Blenbeints S Fight. 
 
 The Blefiings of Good Fortune Pes tefusd - 
 
 . Unlefs fometimes with generous Freedom usd. 
 
 
 
 “Tis Madnefs, not Frugality, prepares | 
 - Avaft Excefs of Wealth for fquandring Heirs: | 
 | Muft I of neither Wine, nor Mirth partake, | 
 Left the cenforious World fhould call me Rake? — : 
 Who unacquainted with the gen’rous Wine, | 
 Fer fpoke bold Truths, or fram'd a great Defign? — 
 That makes us fancy evry F ace has Charms ; 
 
 That gives us Courage, and then finds us Arms : 
 
 Sees Care difburthen'd, and each Tongue employ'd, 
 ThePoor grown Rich, and ev'ry Wifh enjoy d. 
 
 This 
 

 
 Dr. Lifter. aud otbers.. 17 
 
 This I'll perform, and promife you fhall fee, 
 
 A Cleanlinefs, from Affectation free : 
 z No Noife, no Hutry; when the Meat's fet on, 
 
 Or when the Difh is cháng'd, the Servants gone : 
 
 For all things ready, nothing more to fetch, 
 
 What e'er you want is in the Mafters Reach: 
 
 Then for the Company IH fee it chofe: 
 
 - "Their Emblematick Signal is the Ro/?: 
 
 If you of Freeman's Raillery approve, 
 
 - Of Cotton’s Laugh, and Winner’s Tales of Love; 
 
 And Bellair's charming Voice may be allow’d, 
 
 What can you hope for better from a Crowd ? 
 But I fhall not prefcribe, confult your Eafe, 
 Write back your Men, and numbér as you pleafe 
 Try your Back-ftairs; and let the Lobby wait; 
 A Stratagem in War is no Deceit. 
 
 I am; Sir, yours, &c; 
 
 gu: 7i 
 
as LETTERS eee 
 
 To Mr eats 
 
 | I Here Pind you wie I vec a a Dif 
 
 courfe of Cookery, after the Method which | 
 Horace has taken in his Art of Poetry, tin | 
 
 1 have all along kept in my View; for Ho- - 
 race certainly is an Author to be imitated. in. 
 - the Delivery of Precepts , for any Art or - 
 ‘Science: He is indeed (ak upon our fort . 
 of Learning in fome of his Satyrs: but even | 
 
 there he inftru&is, as in the fourth Satyr of the | 
 fecond Book ; 
 
 Longa quibus fign ovis erit, illa memento, 
 - "Ut fucci melioris, Ov ut magis alba rotundis, 
 Pouere ; mamque Marem cobibent callofa 
 ido: 
 * Choofe Eggs oblong, remember they’ l3 
 * be found 
 
 «€. Of [weeter taft, and whiter than the | | 
 
 * Round ; 
 
 |. The Éitmneh of that op ignturles the | 
 
 Male. 
 
 I am 
 
 s 
 X sc rada 
 
 Le , 3 itt 
 - vp E TENECH T CP AREIS E 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
. c Dr. Lifter, and others, — 19 
 
 ! Fam much of his Opinion, and could only 
 
 
 
 
 
 with that the World was throughly inform'd 
 
 of two other Truths concerning Eggs: One 
 
 is, how incomparably better Roafted Eggs are 
 than boild ; the other, never to eat any 
 à Butter with ‘Eggi’ in the Shell : You cannot. 
 
 imagine how much more you will have of. 
 
 their Flavour , and how much eafier they 
 jwill. fit upon your Stomach. The worthy 
 E Perfon who recommended it to me made ma- 
 | ny Profelytes; and I have the Vanity to think 
 
 that I paye, not been altogether unfuccefsful. 
 
 d ted in XUL s Poem us dea plain, eafi lC, fa. 
 
 ilias Stile, as moft fit for Precept ; neither 
 
 bave I Been too exact an [mitator a Horace, 
 as he himfelf directs. I have not confulted 
 any of his. Tranflators, neither Mr. Oldbam, 
 whofe . Copioufnefs runs into Paraphrafe ; | 
 
 nor Ben "Tobnfon , who 1s admirable | for his 
 
 clofe following of the Original; nor yet the 
 Lord Rofcommon, fo excellent jor the Beauty 
 of his Language, and his Penetration into 
 
 | the very Defign, and Soul of that Author. 
 |. & confider’d that I went upon a new Underta- 
 
 € 7 king, 
 
20 LETTERS to 7” 
 
 king, and tho’ I don’t value my felf upon it 
 
 as much as Lucretius did, yet I dare fay it 
 
 is more innocent and inoffenfi Ive. 
 
 Sonictiites end Horace’s Rules come too 
 
 thick, and fententious, I have fo far taken - 
 liberty as to pafs over fome of them; for I 
 
 confider the Nature and Temper of Cooks , 
 who are not of the moft patient Difpofiti tion, 
 as their under Servants too often experience. 
 
 I wifh I might prevail with them to mode- 
 rate their Paffions, which will be the greater | 
 . Conqueft, fccing. a continual Heat i is added 
 
 to their native Fire. 
 
 Amidft dic variety of Dire&ions which 
 Horace gives us in his Art of Poetry, that is 
 
 one of the moft accurate Pieces that he or - 
 
 any other Author has wrote, there is a fe- 
 
 cret Connection in reality, though he does 
 
 not exprefs it too plainly, and therefore this 
 
 Imitation of it has many Breaks init. If fuch 
 as fhall condefcend to read this Poem, would 
 at the fame time confult Horace’s original La. 
 tin, "Which is here affix'd, or fome of the 
 
 fo. foremen- 
 
 
 
 ee ee 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 21 
 
 foremention’d Tranflators, they would find at | 
 
 - leaft this Benefit, that they would recolle& 
 
 thofe excellent Ipfiruions which he delivers 
 to us in fuch elegant Language. 
 
 JT could with the Mafler and Wardens of 
 the Cooks Company would order this Poem to 
 
 . be read with due Confideration ; for it is not 
 
 lightly to be run over, feeing it “contains ma- 
 
 ny ufeful Inftructions for Humane Life. Ie 
 is true, that fome of thefe Rules may feem 
 
 more principally to refpect the Steward, Clerk 
 of the Kitchen, Caterer, or perhaps the Butler. 
 
 _ But the Cook being the principal Perfon, with- 
 
 out whom all the reft will be little regarded, 
 they are dire&ed to him, and the Work be- 
 ing defi ign d for the enl Good, it will 
 
 . accomplifh fome part of its intent, if thofe 
 
 : 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 
 
 fort of People will improve by it. 
 
 It may happen in this as in all Works of 
 
 E Art, that there may be fome Terms not ob- : 
 
 vious to common Readers, but they are not 
 many. The Reader may not have a juft 
 
 : Idea of a fwol’d Mutton, which is a Sheep 
 
 ae 3 roafted 
 
fo LETTERS Ge 
 
 roafted in its Wool , to fave the Labour of 3 
 fleaing. Bacon ME Filbert Tarts are fome- — 
 thing unufual, but fince Sprout Tarts and Pi- | 
 frachio Tarts are much the fame thing, and | 
 to be feen in Dr. Salmon’s Family Dictionary ; X 
 thofe Perfons who have a defire for them, 3 
 may eafily find the way to make them. As — 
 for Grout it is an old Danifb Difh, and it is | 
 claim'd as an Honour to the ancient F amily of 
 !* fo Catry:d Dith of it up at the Co- © 
 ronation. A Dwarf Pye was prepard for” 
 King Fames the Firft, when Feffrey his Dwarf : 
 rofe out of one armed with a Sword and 
 Buckler, and is fo recorded in Hiftory, that | 
 there are few but know it. Tho’ Marinated | 
 Fifh, Hippocras and Ambigues are known to | 
 all that deal in Cookery, yet Terremes are 
 not fo ufual, being a Silver Veffel filld with | 
 
 the moft coftly Dainties after the manner of | 
 an Oglie. A Surprise i is hkewife a Difh not ' 
 fo very common, which promifing little from — 
 its firft Appearance, when open abounds with | 
 
 all forts of Variety ; which I cannot better 
 refemble than to the Fifth A& of one of our. 
 Modern Comedies. Left Monteth, Vinegar, 
 | Tialofr, | 
 
 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 9 2 
 Thalic[fen , and Boffz fhould be taken for 
 
 Difhes of Rarities, it may be known that 
 Monteith was a Gentleman with a {callop’d 
 Coat, that Vinegar keeps the Ring at Lin- 
 - coln's Inn Fields, ‘Thalieffen was one of the 
 -moft antient Bards amongft the Britains , 
 and Bo[fu one of the moft certain Inftructors 
 - of Criticilm that this latter Age has pro- 
 ducd.... IpWDH et: | is 
 
 I hope it will not be taken ill by the Wits 
 that I call my Cooks by the Title of Ingenious ; 
 for I cannot imagine why Cooks may not be 
 _as well read as any other Perfons: I am fure 
 their Apprentices, of late Years, have had very 
 great Opportunities of Improvement; and 
 Men of the firft Pretences to Literature have 
 - been very liberal, and fent in their Contri- 
 butions very largely: They have been’ very 
 ' ferviceable both to Spit and Oven, and for 
 thefe twelve Months paft, whilft Dr. Wot- 
 ton with his modern Learniug was defending 
 Pye-ernft from Ícorching, his dear Friend 
 Dr. Bently, with his Phalaris, hasbzenfingeing - 
 of Capons. Not that this was occafiond by 
 
 | C do4 57 cui 
 
 d 
 
dee LETTERS te | 
 any WO , or Tedioufnefs of dui Wii- 
 
  tings, or mutual Commendations ; but it was — 
 found out by fome worthy Patriots, to make © 
 the Labours of the two Doéiors, as (a as pu. 
 fible, to become ufe fub) to the P ublick. 
 
 Indeed Cookery has an jours upon Mens - 
 Acions even in the higheft Stations of hu- — 
 man Life. The great Philofopher Pythago- 
 raj, in his Golden Verfes, {hews himfelf to be 
 extremely nice in Eating, when he makes it | 
 one of his chief Principles of Morality to ab- . 
 ftain from Beans. The nobleft Foundations 
 of Honour, Juftice and Integrity were found. 
 ^ TO lye hid in Turaips, as appears in that great 
 Didator, Cincinnatus , who went from the 
 Plough to the Command of the Roman Army ; 
 and having brought home Victory, retir'd to his 
 Cottage : For when the Sazmite Ambafladors 
 came thither to him,’ with a large Bribe, and 
 found him drefling Turnips for: his Repaft, 
 they immediately return d with this Sentence, 
 «© That it was impoffible to prevail upon 
 * him that could be contented with fuch a 
 fe Supper- In fhort, there are 1 no o honorary 
 : Appet 
 
ae" Rifler, “and Obese. $« 
 
 Appellations but what may be made ufe of 
 to Cooks; for I find throughout the whole 
 Race of Charlemain, that the Great Cook of 
 the Palace was one of the prime Minifters of 
 State, and Conductor of Armies: So true is 
 that Maxim*of Paulus milins after his glo- 
 - rious Expedition into Greece, when he was to 
 entertain the Roman People: ** That’ there 
 * was equal Skill required to bring an Army 
 ** into the Field, and to fet forth a magni 
 *« ficent Entertainment ; fince the one was as 
 ¢ far as poflibly to annoy your Enemy, and 
 * the other to pleafure your Friend. Jn 
 fhort, as for all Perfons that have not a 
 due Regard for the learned, induftrious, 
 moral, upright, and warlike Profeffion of 
 Cookery, may they live as the antient Inha- 
 bitants of Puerte Ventura, one of the Canary 
 
 Iflands, where they being fo barbarous as to 
 
 e 
 
 ^ 
 
 make the moft contemptible Perfon to be their — 
 
 Butcher, they had likewife their Meat ferv'd 
 up raw, becaufe they had no Fire to drefs it; 
 and I take this to be a condition bad enough 
 of all Confidence. © — 
 
 As 
 
06 LETTERS i = 
 
 As this {mall Effay finds Acceptance, I fhall | 
 be encourag’d to purfue a great Defign I have © 
 in hand of publifhing a Bibliotheca Culinaria, | 
 or the Cook's. Compleat Library, which fhall | 
 begin with a Tranflation, or at leaft an Epi- | 
 tome of Atheneus, who Treats of all things | 
 belonging to a Grecian Feaft: He fhall be : 
 publith’d with all his Comments, ufe Fil Gloffes, 4 
 and Indexes of a vaft Copioufnefs, with Cuts | 
 of the Bafling Ladles , Dripping Pans, and | 
 Drudging Boxes, &c. lately dug up at "Rome j 
 out of an old fubterrancan: Skullery. 1 defign | 
 to have all Authors in all Languages upon | | 
 that Subject ; therefore pray confult what | 
 Oriental Manufcripts you have : I remember | 
 - Erpenius, in his Notes upon Locman's Fables | 
 | 
 
 4 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 (whom I take to be the fame Perfon with 
 /Efop) gives us an admirable Receipt for ma- 
 king the fowre Milk, thatis, the Bonmy-Clab- | 
 ber of the Arabians. I theuld be glad to ; 
 know how Mahomet us'd to have his Shoulder 
 of Mutton dreísd ; 1 have heard he was a | 
 great Lover of that Joint, and that a Maid | 
 of an n poyfon'd him with one, yigg m if : 
 
 | 
 . 
 ! 
 ; 
 | 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 29 
 dei is a Prophet he will difcover it, if he is an 
 Tinpoftor , no matter what D of bim. Y 
 fhall have occafion for the Affiftance of all 
 my Friends in this great Work. I fome Pofts - 
 ago defired a Friend to enquire what Manu- 
 feripts Sol. Harding, a famous Cook, may have 
 left behind him at Oxford. He fays, he finds 
 among his Executors feveral admirable Bills 
 of Fare for Ariftotle-Suppers, and Entertain- 
 ments of Country Strangers, with certain 
 Prizes according to their feted Seafons; he 
 fays fome Pages have large black Croffes 
 
 drawn over them , but for the greater part 
 the Books are fair and legible. 
 
 | one I would beg you to fearch Cooks Hall, 
 — what Manufcripts they may have in their Ar- 
 chives: See what in Guild-Hall: What Ac- 
 count of Cuflard in the Sword-bearers Office , 
 
 How many Tun He, a Common Cryer, or a 
 Common Hunt may cat in thei Life-time. 
 But I epic the Bounds of a Letter, and 
 have firay 'd from my Subjed, which (hould 
 have been to beg you to read the following 
 Lines, when n are inclin'd to be moft 
 in CORR ... favourable 
 
o8. LETTERS @ 
 
 favourable to your Friend, for elfe ba will 
 never be able to endure your juft Cenfure; I 
 rely upon your good Nature, and I am 
 
 — Tour moft ilia d, Oe. 
 
 E 
 
 To My, 22 
 
 DEAR Sir, 
 
 Have reflected upon the Difcourfe I had 
 
 with you the other Day, and upon fe- 
 rious Confideration find, that the true un- 
 derftanding of the whole: Art of Cookery, will 
 be ufeful'to all Perfons that pretend to the 
 Belles Lettres, and efpecially to Poets. 
 
 I do not find it proceeds from any Enmity 
 of the Cooks, but it is rather the fault of their 
  Maflers, that Poets are not fo well acquainted 
 with good Eating, as otherwife they might 
 be, if oftener invited: However, even in 
 Mr. JD' Unf s Prefence, this I would be 
 
 bound 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. $9. 
 
 ‘bound to fay, That a good Dinner is Brother 
 ‘toa good Poem; only it is fomething more 
 -fubftantial; and between two and three a Clock 
 more agrecable. t r 
 
 I have known a Supper make the moft di- 
 | verting part of a Comedy : Mr. Betterton in 
 the Libertine has fat very gravely, with the , 
 Leg of a Chicken, but I have feen Facomo 
 very merry, and eat very heartily of Peafe, 
 - and butter d Eggs under the Table. ‘The Hoff 
 in the Villain, who carries Tables, Stools, 
 Furniture and Provifions all about him, gives 
 great Content to the Spectators, when from 
 the Crown of his Hat he produces his cold - 
 Capon; fo Armarillis (or rather Parthenope, 
 as I take it) in the Rebear{ai, with her Wine 
 m her Spear, and her Pye in her Helmet ; 
 and the Cook that flobbers his Beard with 
 Sack Poffet, in the Man’s tbe Mafler, have, 
 in my Opinion, made the moft diverting 
 part of the Action. Thefe Embelifhments 
 we have receiv d from our Imitation of the 
 antient Poets : Horace , in his Satyrs, makes 
 Mecenas very merry with the Recolle&ion of 
 the 
 
30 LETTERS io 
 
 the QNUM Entertainment and Difhes giver 
 
 him by Na fic idienus s and with his Raillery up- 
 on Garlick in his third Epode. The Supper 
 
 of Petronius with all its Machines and Con. 
 
 trivances, gives us the moft lively Defcription 
 of Nero’s Luxury. , Juvenal {pends a whole 
 Satyr about the. Price and Dreffing of a-fin- 
 
 gle Fifh, with the Judgment of the Roman 
 ’ Senate concerning it. Thus, whether fe. 
 v is.made the — 
 
 rious or jocofe, -good Faring 
 
 Subject and Ingredient of Poetical Enter- | 
 
 tainments. 
 
 ^ D think all Poets agree that Epifodes are to — 
 . be interwove in their Poems-with the greateft . 
 
 Nicety of Art; and fo it is the fame thing at 
 à good Table, and yet I have feen a very 
 
 good Epifode (give me leave to call it fo) . 
 
 made by fending out the Leg of a Goofe, 
 or the Gizzard m a Turkey: to be broil’d : 
 Tho’ I know that Criticks, witha good Sto- 
 mach, have been B ndi that the Unity of 
 Ad (hou'd be fo far broken. And yet, 
 as in our Plays, fo at our common Tables, 
 min Figs; are allow d, as flicing of Cu- 
 eümbers, 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. $ f 
 : IR dreffi ing of Sallads, feafoning the 
 - anfide bf a Sirloyn of Hees. breaking ‘Lob: 
 -fters Claws, ftewing Wild Ducks, toafting 
 - of Checfe , Legs of Larks, aid feveral 
 
 - others. 
 
 AA Poet, who by proper Expreflions, and 
 _pleafing Images 15 to lead us into the Know- — 
 ledge of neceflary Truth, may delude his Au- 
 dience extremely, and "indeed barbaroufly, 
 unlefs he bas fome Knowledge of this Art of 
 Cookery, and the Progrefs of it, "Would. it 
 not found ridiculous to hear Alexander the 
 * Great to command his Canon to be mounted, 
 and to throw red hot Bullets out of his Mor- 
 : tar-pieces © Or to have Statira talk of Tape- 
 firy Hangings, which all the Learned know, 
 were many Years after her Death, firft hung 
 up in the Hall of King Mitalus 2. Should 
 Sir Fobu Falfiaffe complain of having durty'd 
 * his Salk Stockings, or Anne of Bolen call for her 
 Coacb, would an Audience endure it? When 
 all the World knows that Queen Elizabeth 
 
 was the farft that had her Coach, or wore Silk 
 Stockings ; Neither can a Poet put Hops in an 
 
 Engh 
 
IME TRE RS to s 
 
 Englifbmau's Drink before Herefy came ini 
 Nor can he ferve him with a Difh of Carps | 
 
 before that time: He might as well give King. 
 James the Firft a Difh of Afparagus upon his 
 firft coming to London, which were not brought | 
 into England till many Years after: Or make | 
 Owen Tudor prefent Queen Catherine with a 
 
 Sugar-Loaf, whereas he might as eafily have | | 
 
 given her à Diamond as large : Seeing the 
 
 1 
 
 Iceing of Cakes at Woodfireet Corner, and the | 
 Refining of Sugar, was but an Invention’ of | 
 
 Two hundred Years ftanding, and before that | 
 time our Anceftors fweetened and garnifh'd 
 
 all with Honey, of whicli there are fome | 
 Remains : In W indfor Bowls; Baron Bracks 
 and large Simmnels fent for Prefents from 
 
 Litch field. 
 
 But now on the contrary it would fhew his - 
 
 Reading, if the Poet put a Hen-Turkey upon | 
 
 the Table in a Tragedy; and therefore I would 
 
 advife it in Hamlet, inftead of their painted 
 Trifles ; and I believe it would give more Sa- 
 ‘tisfaQion to the A&ors. For Diodorus Siculus 
 
 teports, how the Sifters of Meleager, or Dio 
 
 UU —— ee ee CH TRES 
 
 mede 1 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 33 
 
 wiles mourning for. their Diod were 
  turn'd into Hen. Turkeys : ; from whience pro- 
 ceeds their Statelinefs of Gate, Refervednefs 
 in Converfation, and melancholy in the Tone 
 of their Voice, and all their Actions. But 
 this would be the moft improper Meat in the 
 World for a Comedy ; for Melancholy, and 
 Diftrefs require a different fort of Diet, as 
 well as Language: and I have heard of a fair 
 Lady, that was pleas'd to fay, that if fhe was 
 upon a ftrange Road, and driven to great 
 Neceflity, fhe believ'd fhe might for once, be 
 able to fup upon a Sack Poffet and a fat 
 Capon. | 
 
 - Tam fure Poets, as well as Cooks, are for 
 having all Words nicely chofen, and pro-. 
 perly adapted ; and therefore I believe they 
 would fhew the fame Regret that 1 do, to 
 hear Perfons of fome Rank, and Quality, fay, 
 Pray cut up that Goofe: Help me to fome of 
 that Chicken, Hen, or Capon, or half that Plo- 
 ver, not confidering how indifcreetly they 
 talk, before Men of Art, whote proper Terms 
 are, Break that Goofe , raf that Chicken: 
 ! : [poil | 
 
24 LETTEPBERS 
 fpoil that Hen: fauce that’ Capon : mince that 
 Plover : Vf they are fo much out in common 
 things, how much more will they be with | 
 Bitterns, Herons, Cranes, and Peacocks? But — 
 it is vain for us to complain of the Faultsand — 
 
 _ Errors of the World, unlefs we lend our erg 
 re Hand to jélcievi them. 
 
 To conclude, our greateft Author lef Dus] 
 matick Poetry, Mr. Dryden, hasmade ufe a 
 the Myfteries of this Art in the Prologues to 
 two of his Plays, one a Tragedy, the other - 
 a Comedy, in which he has fhew'd bis great- — 
 eft Art, and. prov'd moft fuccefsful. 1 had | 
 not feen the Play for fome Years, before I 
 hit upon almoft the fame Words that he has - 
 in the following Prologue to All for Love. ; 
 
 Fops may have leave to level all they can, - 
 As Pigmies wou'd be glad to top a Man. 
 Half-Wits are Fleas, fo little and fo light, | 
 
 We fcarce cou'd know they live, but that they bite. 
 
 But, | 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. ^ 35 
 But, as the Rich, when tir'd with daily F'eafts, 
 For change become their next poor Tenant's Guefis : 
 Drink hearty Draughts of Ale from plain brown Bowls, 
 And fnatcb the bonely Rafber from tbe Coals 2 
 B. So you retiring from much better Cheer, 
 ( For once may venture to do Penance here. 
 And fince that plenteous Autumn now is paft, 
 Whofe Grapes and Peaches have indulg'd your Taft, 
 Take in good part from our poor Poet's Board, 
 
 Such fhrivel'd F ruit as Winter can afford. 
 
 . How Fops and Fleas fhou'd come together 
 
 I cannot eafily account for ; but 1 doubt not 
 but his Ale, Rafher, Grapes, Peaches, and 
 fhrivel’d Apples might Pit---- Box--- and Gal- 
 . lery-it well enough. His Prologue to Sir Mar- 
 in Mar-all is füch an exquifite Poem, taken 
 . from the fame Art, that I could cine it tran- 
 : flated into Latin, to be prefixt to Dr. Liffer’s S 
 Work : The whole i is as follows. 
 
 D 2 PRO. 
 
6 LETTERS 
 
 : PROLOG" E. LM 
 Fools which each Man meets in his Difh each Day, | 
 Are yet the great Regalia’s of a Play: : | 
 In SA to Poets you but juft appear, — 
 To prize that ene which coft them. fo aoe 
 Fops in the Town more eafily will pafs, 
 One Story makes a ftatutable Afs : 
 But fuch in Plays muft be much thicker fown, 
 Like Yolks of Egos, a dozen beat to one. 
 Obferving Poets all their Walks invade, — 
 As Men watch Woodcocks sliding through a Glade. | 
 
 
 
 And when they have enough for Comedy, . | 
 They 'ftow their feveral Bodies in a tit | 
 The Poet’s but the Cook to fafhion it, | | 
 For, Gallants, you your felves have found the Wit. 1 
 "To bid you welcome would your Bounty wrong. 
 
 ‘None welcome thofe who bring their * Cheer along. - 
 
 
 
 * Some Criticks read it Chair. 
 
 The 
 
“BA Lifter, and ot bers. f ‘i 
 
 The Image (which 1s the oreat Perfection 
 * a Poet ) is (aurcine lively and well painted, 
 that methinks I fee the whole Audience witha 
 Dith of Butter'd Eggs in one hand, and a 
 
 - Woodcock Pye in the other. 1 hope I may 
 ' be excusd after fo great an Example, for I 
 — declare I have no Defign but to encourage 
 | Learning, and am very mi from any Defigrs 
  againft it. And therefore I hope the worthy 
 Gentleman who faid that the Journey to Loz- 
 don ought to be burnt by the common Hang- 
 man, as a Book, that if receiv'd, would difcou- 
 rage Ingenuity, would be pleas'd not to make 
 - his Burnfire at the upper end of Ludgate-ftreet, 
 . for fear of endangering the Bookfellers e 
 and the Cathedral. 
 
 I have abundance more to fay upon thefe 
 - Subjects, but I am afraid my firft Courfe is — 
 fo tedious, that you will excufe me both the 
 
 fecond Courfe and the Defert, and call for 
 Pipes, and a Candle ; but La adesitlic Papers 
 came from an old Friend, and fpare them out 
 of Compaflion to, 
 P 24 | SIR, Ce. 
 1:023. To 
 
38 LETTERS m 
 
 To Min mites DN 
 
 S IRs 
 
 ho no great Lover of Wri rit n more than | 
 4 Iam forc’d to, and therefore have not | 
 troubl'd you with my Letters to congratulate — 
 your good Fortune in London, or to bemoan ~ 
 our Unhappinefs in the lofs of * you here. The - 
 -occafion of this is to defire your Affiftance in. 
 a matter that I am fallen into by the Advice — 
 of fome Friends; but unlefs they help me, — 
 it will be impoflible for me to get out of it. : 
 I have had the Misfortune to---- write ; but — 
 what is worfe, I have never confiderd whe- . 
 ther any one would read: Nay, I have been © 
 fo very bad as to defign to print, but then 
 a wicked Thought came acrofs me with Who — 
 will buy ? For if I tell you the Title, you. 
 will be of my Mind, that the very Name - 
 will deftroy 1t : The Art of Cookery, in Imita- 
 tion of Horace's Art of Poetry, with fome fa- 
 miliar Letters to Dr. Lifter and others, occa- 
 fion'd (EB ct by the Title of a Book 
 publifh’d 
 
 
 
 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 39 
 publith’ d by the Doétor, concerning the Soups 
 and Sauces of the Antients. To this a Beau 
 will cry, Phongh! what have I to do with 
 Kitchin-finff : ?* To which I anfwer, Buy it 
 and then give it to your Servants : For I hope 
 to live to fee the Day when every Miftref8 
 of a Family, and every Steward fhall call up 
 their Children and Servants with, Come Mifs | 
 Betty, how much have you got of your Art . 
 of Cookery ? Where did you leave off, Mifs 
 Isbel ? Mifs Katty, are you no farther than 
 King Henry and tbe Miller 2 Yes, Vira | 
 ] am come to 
 
 os His Name fball be euvoll d 
 In Eftcourt’s Book, whofe Gridiron n Frame 
 of Gold. 
 
 Pray Mother, is that our Mafter Eftcourt 2 
 Well, Child, if you mind this you fhan't be 
 put to your Affemblies Catechiíím next Sa- 
 turday: What a elorious fight it willbe, and 
 how ‘becoming a great Family, to fee the 
 Butler out-learning the Steward , and the 
 painful Skullery Maid exerting her Memory 
 
 | D 4 far | 
 
40 LETTERS. 10" 
 
 far beyond the mum ping Houfe-keeper. I am ni 
 told that if a Book is any thing ufeful, the — 
 Printers have a way of pirating one ano- . 
 ther, and printing other. Perfons Copies , q 
 "which is very barbarous: And then íhall Y | 
 be forc’d to:come out with Tbe True Art of — 
 Cookery is only to be bad at Mr. Pindar’s a Pat- 3 
 ten-Maker’s under St. Dunftan’s Church, with | 
 the Authors Seal at the Title Page, be- | 
 ing Three Sauce Pans in a Bend. Proper ona. | 
 . Cooks Apron Argent : Beware of Counter- | 
 feits. And be forcd to put out Advertife- — 
 ments with Strops for Razors. And the beft | 
 Spectacles are to be had only at the Archi 1 
 
 medes, Ore. 
 
 L def ien IM which 1 hers get - deli. 1 
 ver d to the Cooks Company, forthe making. | 
 an Order that every Prentice fhall have the | 
 Art of Cookery when he is bound, which © 
 he fhall fay by Heart before he is made free; — 
 and then he fhall' have Dr. Liffer's Book of 1 
 Soups and Sauces.deliver'd to him for his fu- | 
 ture Pra&dice. | But you know better what: | 
 [ am to do than L For the Kindnels you may | 
 
 : thew | 
 
 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 41 
 
 - fhew me I fhall always endeavour to make 
 what Returns lye in my Power. I am 
 
 J Your, Oe , 
 
 
 
 Fe Wik 
 
 Dear Sin, 
 
 Cannot but recommend to your Perufal 
 
 a late exquifi ite Comedy call’d The Law- 
 yer's Fortune, or, Love in a Hollow Tree; 
 which Piece ph its peculiar Embelifhments, 
 and is a Poem carefully fram'd according to 
 . the niceft Rules of the Art of Cookery : For 
 the Play opens with a Scene of good Huf- 
 wifry , where Favourite the Houle-keeper 
 makes this Complaint to the Lady Bonona. 
 
 Fav. Thé laft Mutton killd was lean, 
 Madam , fhould not fome fat d be 
 Bopgor; in Pt. 
 
 Bon. What. 
 
Bo LETTERE 
 
 . Bon. What fay you, Let-Acre to it ? J 
 Let. This is the worft time of the Year | 
 for Sheep, the frefh Grafs makes 'em fall 
 away, and they begin to tafte of the Wool; — 
 they muft be fpard a while, and Favourite | 
 muft caft to {pend fome fale Meat, and - 
 Fih; I hope we fhall have fome fat Calves 3 
 fhortly. 
 
 What can be more agreeable than this to | 
 the Art of Cookery, where the Author fays, — ^ 
 
 But tho' my Edge be not too nicely fet, 
 Yet I another's Appetite bn whet ; 
 May teach him when to buy, when Seafon paff, 
 What's ftale, what's choice, what's plentiful, ibat 
 waft, 
 
 And lead hira through the various maze of Taft. 
 
 In the fecond AG Valentine, Mrs. Bonona's 
 Son; the confummate Chara&er of the Play, 
 having | in the Firft A@ loft his Hawk, and 
 
 confequently his Way , bewighted and loft , 
 and 
 
 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others, 43 
 
 and feeing a Light in a diftant Honfe, comes 
 to the thrifty Widow Furiola’s, [which is 
 exactly according to the Rule, A Prince 
 who in a Foreft rides afiray | Where he 
 finds the old Gentlewoman carding, the fair 
 "Florida, ber Daughter, working on a Parcb- 
 ment, whilft the Maid is {pinning. Peg reaches 
 a Chair, Sack is call'd for, and in the mean 
 time the good old Gentlewoman complains fo of 
 Rogues, that fhe can [carce keep a Goofe or 
 a Turkey in fafety for them. Then Florida 
 enters with a little white Bottle about a Pint, 
 and an old Fafbion'd Glafs, fills and gives her 
 Mother, ‘fbe drinks to Valentine, be to Flori- 
 da, fbe to bim again, be to Furiofa, who fets — 
 it down on the Table. After a {mall time the 
 old Lady cries, Well *tis my Bed-time, but my 
 Daughter will fhew you the way to yours, for I 
 know you would willingly be in it. This was 
 extremely kind! Now upon her Retirement ; 
 fee the great Judgment of the Poets, fhe be- 
 ing an 'old Gentlewoman that went to bed, 
 he fuits the following Regale according to the 
 . Age of the Períon; had Boys been put to 
 bed it had been proper to have laid the Goofe 
 
 to 
 
“4 LEFRERB Se 
 to the Fire, but here 'tis otherwife: For af- | 
 ter fome intermediate Difcourfe he is invited | 
 to a Repaft, when he modeftly excufes him. | 
 felf with, Truly, Madam, I have no Stomach | 
 to any Meat, but to comply with you. . You bave, 
 Madam, enteriaim d. me with all that n defi itabls: | 
 
 alreadly. The Lady tells him a cold Supper 3s better ] 
 than noe, fo be fits at the Table, offers to eat 
 
 — "but can't. Yam fure Horace hietfelt could not - 
 
 have prepard himíelf more exa&ly, for [ac- ! 
 cording to the Rule, AW. idow bas cold P ye, 14 
 tho’ Valentine being Love-fick could not eat. | 
 
 
 
 3 2 
 
 yet it was his Fault and not the Poets. But 1 
 when Valentine is to return the Civility, and | 
 to invite Madam Furiofa and Madam Flori- | 
 da, with other good Company, to his Mo- . 
 the the hofpitable Lady Boxona's, [who by 
 the by had call'd for two Bottles ae Wine for - 
 Latitat her Attorney, | then Affluence and 
 Dainties are to appear [ according to this Verfe, 
 Mangoes , Potargo, Champignons, Cameare:| : 
 And Mis. Favourite the Houfe-keeper males 
 
 thefe moft impottaat Enquiries. i 
 
 F. a0. Mi- 
 
Dr. Lifter, and abe. 45 
 
 - Fav. Miftrefs, (hall Y put any Mufhrooms, 
 | “Mangos, or Bamboons into the Sallad ? 
 Bon. Yes, I prithee, the beft thou haft. 
 - Fav. Shall I ufe Ketchop or Anchovies in 
 the Gravy ? 
 — Ben. What you will. 
 
 But doweier magnificent i Pini might | 
 be, yet Mrs. Bonona, as the manner of fome 
 . pA is, makes lier Excufe for it with, Well, 
 Gentlemen, can ye {pare a little time to take a 
 JPort Dno? I promife you it fban't be se: 
 It is very probable, tho’ the Author does not 
 _ make any of the Guefis give a relation of it, 
 that Valentine being a great Sportíman, might 
 - furnifh the Table with Game and Wildfowl. : 
 There was at leaft one Phefant in the Houfe, 
 which Valentine told his Mother of the Morn- 
 ing before. ** Madam, I had a good Flight 
 * of a Pheafant Cock, that qiie my Hawk 
 € feizd made Head i: if he would have 
 “ fought, but my Hawk plum'd her prefent- 
 * ly. Now it is not reafonable to fuppofe 
 
 that Vally lying abroad that Night, the old 
 
 Gentle- 
 
46 ADETDERS 
 
 - Gentlewoman under that Concern would have — 
 
 any Stomach to it for her own Supper. How- - 
 ever, to fee the Fate of things there is nothing - 
 
 permanent, for one Mrs. Candia making (tho' — 
 
 innocently) a Prefent of an Hawk to Valen-— 
 tine, Florida his Miftrefs grows jealous, and — 
 refolves to leave him, and run away with an © 
 odd fort of Fellow, one Major Sly: -Valen- — 
 tine to appeafe her fends a Meflage to her by — 
 a Boy, who tells her, His Mafter to fbew the — 
 Trouble he took by flee mifapprebenfion, bad | 
 fent. ber [ome vifible Tokens, tbe Hawk torn to 
 pieces with bis own Hands; and then pulls — 
 out of the Basket the Wings ahd Legs of a Fowl. 
 
 | 
 1 
 
 So we fee the poor Bird demolifb'd, and all — 
 
 Hopes of Wildfowl deftroy'd for the future : 
 And happy were it if Misfortunes would fiop 
 here. But the cruel Beauty refufing to E 
 appeas d, Valentine takes a fudden Refolution, 
 which he communicates to Let-Acre the Sree 
 ard, to drufb off, and quit bis Habitation. 
 However it was, whether Let-Acre did not 
 think his young Matter real, and Val. having 
 threaten d the Houfe- keeper to kick her im- 
 mediately before, for being too fond of him, 
 * and 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 47 
 
 and his Boy being raw and unexperiencd in 
 Travelling , it feems they made but (lender 
 Provifion for their Expedition ; for there is 
 but one Scene interpos 'd before we find di. 
 firefs'd Valentine in the moft miferable condi- 
 tion that the. joint Arts of Poetry and Cooke- 
 ry are able to reprefent him. There is a 
 Scene of the greateft Horror, and moft mo- 
 ving to Compaffion of any thing I have feen 
 amongft the Moderns ; Talks of’ no Pyramids 
 of Fowl, or Bisks of Fifb is nothing to it, 
 for deve we fee an innocent Perfon, onlefs 
 punifh'd for his Mother's and Houfe-keeper S 
 Extravagancy , as was faid before, in their. 
 Muthrooms, Mangoes, Bamboons, ‘Ketchup, 
 - and Anchovies, reduc'd to the Extremity of 
 Eating his Cbeefe without Bread, and having 
 no other Drink but Water. For he and bis 
 Boy, with two Saddles on bis Back and Wal. 
 - det, come into a Walk of confus d Trees, where 
 an ‘Owl hollows, a Bear and Leopard mabh acrofs 
 the Defart, at a diflauce, and yet they venture — 
 an, where Valentine accofts his Boy with thefe 
 Lines, which would draw Tears from any 
 thing that is not Marble. 
 
 Hang 
 
48 LETTERS to 
 
 Hang up thy Wallet on that xl rem 
 And creep thou in this hollow place with me, - 
 Let's here repofe our wearied Limbs till they\ | : 
 
 more wearied be. 
 
 Boy. There's nodis le i in He Wallet E 
 but one Piece of Cheefe, what fhall we do . 
 for Bread ? 3 
 
 Val. When we have flept.we "il (ck. out - 
 fome Roots that íhall fupply that Doubt. — 
 
 Boy. But no Drink, Mafter? 
 
 * Fal. Under that Rock a Spring I fee 
 
 Which fhall refrefh my Thirft and thee. 
 
 So the A& clofes, and it is difmal for the 
 Audience to confider how Valentine and the — 
 ‘poor Boy, who it feems had a coming Sto- 
 mach, fhould continue there all the time the — 
 ' Mufick was playing and longer. But to eafe | 
 them of their Pain by an Invention which the | 
 Poets call Cataflropbe, Valentine, tho with a — 
 long Beard, and very weak with fafting, isre- | 
 concil'd to Florida, who embracing him, fays, | 
 
 | I doubt |. 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 49 
 
 -. 4 doubt I have offended hjg too much; but 
 Vl attend him home, cherifo bim with Cor- 
 dials, make bim Broths [Poor good natur'd 
 Creature, I wilh fhe had Dr. L;fler's Book 
 to help her] anoint bis Limbs, and bea 
 Nurfe, a tender Nurfe to him. Wor do Blef- 
 fings come alone, for the good Mother ha- 
 ving refrefb d bim with warm Baths, and kept 
 him tenderly in the Houfe, orders Favourite 
 with repeated Injunctions, To get the beft En- 
 tertainment [be ever yet provided, to confider 
 what foe has, and what fhe wants, and to get 
 all ready in few Hours: And fo this moft re- 
 gular Work is concluded with a Dance and à 
 Wedding Dinner. I cannot believe there - 
 . was any thing ever more of a Piece than 
 this Comedy; fome Períons may admire your 
 meagre Tragedies, but give me a Play where 
 there is a Profpe& of good Meat or good 
 Wine fürring in every AG of it. 
 
 ^. ‘Tho’ Iam confident the Author had wrote 
 this Play, and printed it long before the Art 
 of Cookery was thought of, and I had never 
 read it till the other Poem was very neat 
 
 | perfected, 
 
50 LETTERS T 
 
 perfected, yet itisadmirable to fee how a true 
 Rule will be adapted to a good Work, or a 
 good Work toa true Rule. I fhould be hear- - ^" 
 tilly glad, for the fake of the Publick, if our - 1 
 Poets, for the future, would make ufe of ^ 
 fo good an Example. I doubt not but - 
 . Whenever you or I write Comedy, we fhall 
 obferve it. I have juft now met with a fur- E 
 prizing Happinefs, a Friend that has feen two — 
 of Dr. Liffer’s Works, one De Buccinis Flue 
 viatilibus © Marinis Exercitatio, An Exerci- E 
 tation of Sea and River Shell-&(h. In which ^ 
 he fays fome of the chiefeft Rarities are the. 
 Pifle and Spermatick Veffels of a Snail, deli- . 
 neated by a Microfcope, the Omentum or... 
 Caul of its "Throat , its Fallopian Tube, and 
 its Subcrocean Teflicle; which are things Hip- . 
 pocrates, Galen, Celfus, Fernelins and Harvey — 
 were never Mafters of. The other Curiofity —— 
 
 is the admirable Piece of Culins Apicius, De 
 
 Opfoniis, five Condimentis, five Arte Coquinaria, 
 
 Libri decem, being Ten Books of Soups and 
 
 Sauces, and the Art of Cookery, as itis ex. 
 cellently printed for the Do∨ who in _ 
 this fo important Affair is not fufficiently - 
 | .. commu- . 
 
 
 
 2: e rs ? E 1. PM 
 E af align ia FENCE CURRERE er ^ ced 
 St Re Re A I t ca e e Ao e ye 
 
Dr. Lifter, and otbers. 51 
 
 communicative. My Friend fays he has a 
 Promife of Leave to read it. What Remarks 
 - he makes I fhall not be envious of, but im- 
 part to him I love as well as his 
 
 Moft Humble Servant, ove, 
 
 
 
 E 2. The 
 
^ 
 
 5 E | ! ; 
 i311 
 
 r * 
 : * oy à; Pda s 
 iz z 
 
 
 
 HORATII FLACCI 
 De ARTE POETICA 
 “Td B E R. 
 
 Ad. Prsonss. 
 
 ao ANY Cad; capiti cervicem pidtor equinam 
 Jungere fi velit, & varias inducere 
 
 | plumas, 
 
 
 
 Unde mE membris, ut turpiter atrum 
 
 Definat in pifcem mulier formofa fuperné ; 
 
 Spectatum admiffi rifum teneatis amici ? 
 
 T NA Credite, 
 
3 
 
 7 f 3 
 
 re eiie d 3G 6 
 
 eR T. 
 As =. f^ NL 
 
 
 
 The Art of Cookery, 
 | In Imitation of 
 
 H ORAC E's Art of Poetry. | 
 
 
 
 ailigtorct To Dr. Lifter, 
 
 were a Picture drawn 
 
 Me With Cynthia's Face, but with a Neck 
 
 
 
 
 
 XS UR ike Brawn ; 
 With Wings of Turkey, and with Feet of Calf, | 
 The deawn by dies. it would make you laugh? 
 Such 1s (good Sir) the Figure of a Feaft, 
 
 . By fome rich Farmer's Wife and Sifter dreft, 
 
 
 
54 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Credite, Pifones, ifti tabula fore librum : 
 Perfimilem, cujus, velit egri fomnia, vans. Nu 
 Fingentur fpecies: ut nec pes, nec caput u uni 
 Reddatur forme. . Pi&oribus ; atque poetis." 
 Quidlibet audendi femper fuit equa poteftas. ‘ore 
 Scimus, & hanc veniam petimufque dantufque vi- 
 
 ciffim : 
 
 Sed non ut placidis c coeant immitia j non. uto 
 
 Serpentes avibus geminentur, tioribus agni. 
 
 Incceptis gravibus plerumque & magna profeffis, 
 Purpureus, laté qui fplendeat, unus & alter — 
 Affuitur pannus cum lucus, & ara Diane, Tn 
 _ €t properantis aque per amoenos ambitus agros, 
 Aut flumen Rhenum, aut pluvius defcribitur arcus. 
 Sed nunc non erat his locus: & fortaffe eupreffum — 
 Scis fimulare : quid hoc, fi fractis enatat exfpes | 
 Navibus, zre c dato kg pingitur ? ? amphora ccepit 
 
  Inftitui i 
 
The Art of Cookery. — 55 
 
 - Which, were it not for Plenty and for Steam, 
 Might be refembled to a fick Man’s Dream, 
 
 "Where all Ideas hudling run fo faft, 
 
 That Syllibubs come firft, and Soups the laft. 
 
 Not but that Cooks and Poets {till were free, 
 
 To ufe their Pow’r in nice Variety ; 
 
 Hence Mac’rel feem delightful to the Eyes, 
 
 Tho? drefs’d with incoherent Goofeberries. 
 Crabs, Salmon, Lobfters are with Fennel fpread, 
 
 Who never touch'd that Herb till they were dead; 
 
 Yet no Man lards falt Pork with Orange Peel, 
 
 | Or garnifhes his Lamb with Spitchcockt Eel. 
 
 A Cook perhaps has mighty things profeft, — | 
 Then fent up but two Difhes nicely dreft, : 
 What fignifie Scotcht-Collops to a Feaft? 
 Or you can make whip'd Cream! Pray what Relief 
 - Willthat be to a Saylor who wants Beef > 
 | E 4 Who, 
 
56. De Arte Poetica. 
 Inftitui: currente rotà cur urceus exit : ni | 
 
 Denique fit quod v vis fimplex duntaxat & unum, 
 
 Maxima pars vatum .Cpater, & ‘gunkies patre 
 | digni) i. P 
 
 Decipimur fpecie redi. Brevis effe laboro, 
 
 Obfcurus fio : fcBantem levia, nervi 
 
 Deficiunt animique : profeffus grandia, turget > 
 Serpit humi, tutus nimiim, timidufque procella ^4 
 Qui variare cupit rem prodigialiter unam, 
 Delphinum filvis appingit, flu&ibus aprum. 
 
 In vitium ducit culpe fuga, fi caret arte. 
 
 JEmilium circa ludum faber imus & ungues 
 Exprimet, & molles imitabitur &re capillos 5 : 
 “Infelix operis fummá, quia ponere totum . 
 
 Nefciet. Hunc ego me, fi quid componere curem, 
 
 Non 
 
Tbe Art of Cookery. 97 
 Who, lately, fhip-wreckt, never can have Eafe, 
 "Till re-eftablith’d in his Pork and. Peafe. 
 | When once begun let Induftry ne'er ceafe 
 Tillit has render'd all things of one Piece : 
 At your Defert bright Pewter comes too late, 
 
 When your firft Courfe was all ferv'd up in Plate. 
 
 Mott knowing Sir ! the greateft part of Cooks 
 
 | Searching for Truth: are couzen'd by its Looks, 
 One wou'd have all things little, hence has try'd 
 Turke Poults frefh, from th’ Egg in Batter fry’d; 
 Othe s to figi the largenefs of their Soul, 
 
 
 
 | RON Muttons {wol'd, and Oxen whole. 
 
 To vary’ he fame things fome think is Art. 
 
 By larding of Hogs-feet and Bacon Tart, 
 
 The Taft is now to that Perfection brought, 
 
 That Care, when wanting Skill, creates the Fault. 
 
 In 
 

 
 55 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Non magis effe velim, quàm pravo vivere nafo, _ 
 
 . Spectandum nigris oculis, nigroque capillo. ' 
 
 sumite materiam veftris, qui fcribitis, equam 
 Viribus; & verfate diu, quid ferre recufent, 
 - Quid valeant humeri, Cui le&a potenter erit res, - 
 Nec facundia deferet hunc, nec luctus ordo. - 
 - Ordinis hzc virtus erit, & venus, aut ego fallor, i | 
 Ut jam nunc dicat, jam nunc debentia dici 
 Pleraque differat, & prafens in tempus omittat ; 
 
 Hoc amat, hoc fpernat, promifli carminis auctor. -- 
 
 In verbis etiam tenuis cautufque ferendis, _ 
 Dixeris egregié, notum fi callida verbum — 
 Reddiderit jun&ura novum. | Si forté neceffe eft 
 Indiciis monftrare recentibus abdita rerum 5 
 Fingere cinéutis non exaudita Cethegis | 
 
 Continget, 
 
The Art of Cookery. 59 
 
 In Covent-Gardon did a Taylor dwell, 
 Who might deferve a place in his own Hell : 
 Give him a fingle Coat to make, he'd dot; — 
 A Veft, or Breeches fingly, but the Brute — 
 Cou ne’er contrive all three to/make a Suit : 
 — Rather than frame a Supper like fuch Cloaths, 
 Id have fine Eyes and Teeth without my Nofe. 
 
 You that from pliant Pafte wou'd Fabricks raife, 
 Expecting thence to gain immortal Praife, | 
 Your Knuckles.try, and let your Sinews know 
 Their Power to knead, and give the Form to Dough, 
 Chufe your Materials right, your feas’ning fix, 
 And with your Fruit refplendent Sugar mix : 
 From thence of courfe the Figure will arife, 
 
 And Elegance adorn the Surface of your Pies. | 
 
60 De Arte Poetica. 
 Continget, dábiturque licentia fumta pudenter : 
 Et nova fidaque nuper habebunt verba fidem; fi | 
 Graco fonte cadent, parce detorta. Quid autem . 
 Cacilio Plautoque dabit Romanus, ademtum © : 
 Virgilio Varioque? ego cur, acquirere pauca — . 
 $i poffum, invideor; cum lingua Catonis & Enni | 
 Sermonem patrium ditaverit & nova rerum :- Ot 
 Nomina protulerit? licuit, femperque licebit. 7 
 Signatum przfente nota producere nomen. 
 
 Ut filve foliis pronos niutantur in annos 5 
 
 Prima cadunt : ita verborum vetus interit ztas, 
 
 Et juvenum ritu florent modó nata, vigentque... 
 Debemur morti nos noftraque ; five OCC ps 
 Terra Neptunus clafles Aquilonibus arcet, da 
 Regis opus; fterilifque diu. palus, aptaque remis. 
 Vicinas urbes alit, & grave fentit aratrum:, .. 
 Seu curfum mutavit iniquum frugibus amnis, 
 Doétus iter melius, mortalia fada peribunt : 
 
 Nedum 
 
The Art of Cookery. 61 
 
 Beauty from Order fprings, the judging Eye” 
 . Will tell you if one fingle Plates awry, 
 
 The Cook muft ftill regard the prefent time, 
 T'omit what's juft in Seafon is a Crime. — 
 
 Your infant Peafe to Sparrrowgrafs prefer, 
 
 Which to the Supper you may beft defer. o 
 
 - Be cautious how you change old Bills of Fare, 
 Such Alterations fhoud at leaft be rare ^ 
 
 Yet Credit to the Artift will accrue, 
 
 Who in known things ftill makes th’ appearance new.) 
 Frefh Dainties are by Britzin’s Traffick known, 
 And now by conftant Ufe familiar STOWwn 3 
 
 What Lord of old wou'd bid his Cook. prepare, 
 Mangoes, Potargo, Champignions, Cavare > 
 
 Or wou'd our thrum-capd Anceftors find fault 
 
 For want of Sugar-Tongs, Or Sidi for Salt.: 
 
 New 
 
62 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Nedum fermonum ftet honos, & gratia vivax. 
 Multa renafcentur, que jam cecidere ; cadentque, 
 Quz nunc funt in honore vocabula, fi volet ufus ; 
 Quem penés arbitrium eft, & jus, & norma lo- 
 
 quendi. uu sd RED 
 
 Res gefte regumque ducumque, & triftia bella, 
 
 - Quo fcribi poffent numero monftravit Homerus. _ 
 
 Verfibus i impariter junctis querimonia. primum, 
 Poft etiam inchifs eft voti fententia compos, — 
 Quis tamen exiguos elegos emiferit audor, 
 
 Grammatici certant, & adhuc fub judice lis eft. 
 
 Archilochum proprio rabies armavit iambo. 
 Hunc focci cepere pedem grandefque cothurni, 
 Alternis aptum fefmonibus, & populares | 
 Vincentem ftrepitus, & natum rebus agendis. 
 
 r : Mufa 
 
 4 
 
| The Art of Cookery. 63 
 New things produce new words, and thus Montesb 
 Has by one Veffel favd his Name from Death. : 
 : The Seafons change us all, by Autumn's Froft 
 B The fhady Leaves of Trees and Fruit are loff. 
 
 m" But then the Spring breaks forth with frefh Supplies, 
 E (ud from the teeming Earth new Buds arife. 
 So ftubble Geefe at Michaelmas are {een 
 j Upon the Spit, next May produces green. — 
 
 (0 The F'ate of things lies always in the dark, 
 What Cavalier wou'd know St. Fames’s Park ? 
 _ For Locket’s ftands where Garden's once did fpring, 
 
 And Wild-Ducks quack where Grafs-hoppers did fing. 
 A Princely Palace on that Space does rife, 
 
 Where Sidlzy’s noble Mufe found Mulberries. 
 
 Since Places alter thus, what conftant Thought 
 
 Of filling To Difhes can be taught ? 
 
 For he pretends too much, or is a Fcol, 
 
 Whod fix thofe things where Fafhion is the Rule. - 
 King 
 
64. De Arte Poetica, 
 
 Mufa dedit fidibus Divos, puerofque Deorum, 
 Et pugilem vidtorem, & equum certamine primum, — 
 
 Et juvenum curas, & libera vina referre, 9 
 
 Defcriptos fervare vices operumque colores, 
 Cur ego, fi nequeo ignoroque, poeta falutor ? 
 
 Cur nefcire, pudens pravé, quam difcere malo ? 
 
 Verfibus exponi tragicis res comica non vult 
 Indignatnr item privatis ac prope focco 
 Dignis carminibus narrari coena Thyeftz. - dà 
 . Singula queque locum teneant fortita decenters 
 Interdum tamen & vocem comoedia tollit, 
 Iratufque Chremes tumido delitigat ore : 
 Et tragicus plerumque dolet fermone pedeftri. 
 Telephus & Peleus, ciim pauper & exul uterque; 
  Projicit ampullas & fefquipedalia verba 5 
 
 Si 
 
The Art of Cookery. 65. 
 
 King Hardicnute mid{t Danes and Saxons ftout, 
  Carous’d in nut-brown Ale, and din'd on Grout : 
 Which Difh its priftine Honour {till retains, 
 
 And when each Prince is crown'd, in Splendor reigns. 
 
 By Northern Cuftom, Duty was expreft 
 "To Friends departed by their Fun'ral Feaft. 
 Tho’ I've confulted Hol/ing head and Stow, 
 
 .. find it very difficult to know 
 Who to refrefh th’ Attendants to a Grave, _ 
 
 Burnt-Claret firft, or Naples-Bifket gave. 
 
 Trotter from Quince, and Apples firft did frame 
 ' A Pye which ftill retains his proper Name, 
 Tho’ common grown, yet with white Sugar ftrow d, 
 
 And butter'd right, its Goodnefs 1s allow'd. 
 
 E As. 
 

 
Tbe Art of Cockery. ey, 
 
 As Wealth flow’d in, and Plenty fprang from 
 Peace, | : 
 _ Good Humour reign d, and Pleafures found encreafe, — 
 Twas ufual then the Banquet to prolong, 
 By Muficks Charm, and fome delightful Song: 
 Where evry Youth in pleafing Accents ftrove, 
 To tell the Stratagems and Cares of Love. 
 — How fome fuccefsful were, how others croft: 
 — Then to the fparkling Glafs wou'd give his Toft; 
 Whofe Bloom did moft in his Opinion thine, 
 To relifh both the Mufick and the Wine. 
 
 Why am I ftil'd a Cook, if I'm fo loth 
 
 To marinate my Fifh, or feafon Broth, 
 
 
 
 Or fend up what I roft with pleafing Froth: 
 If I my Matters Gufto won't difcern, 
 But thro’ my bafhful Folly {corn to learn? 
 Fa When 
 
NW 
 LNNS DEN. 
 - Eo 
 D*.Aw Au 4 
 
 
 
The Art of Cookery. = 69 
 
 When among Friends good Humour takes if Birth, 
 "Tis not a tedious Feaft prolongs the Mirth ; | 
 But "tis not reafon therefore you fhou'd fpare, - 
 | When as their future Burghefs you prepare, - 
 For a fat Corporation and their Mayor. 
 All things (hou'd find their room in proper place, 
 And what adorns this Treat, wou'd that difgrace. 
 .. Sometimes the Vulgar will of Mirth partake, 
 And have exceffive Doings at their Wake : 
 Evn Taylors at their yearly Feafts look great, 
 And all their Cucumbers are turn’d to Meat. 
 _ A Prince who in a Foreft rides aftray, 
 And weary to fome Cottage finds the way, 
 Talks of no Pyramids of Fow! or Bifks of Fifh, 
 But hungry fups his Cream ferv'd up in Earthen Dith : 
 Quenches his Thirft with Ale in nut-brown Bowls, 
 And takes the hafty Rafher from the Coals : 
 
 F2 Pleas'd 
 
70 So We Arte Poetica. | 
 
 Si curat cor fpe&antis tetigiffe querela. 
 
 Non fatis eft pulchra effe poemata ; dulcia funto, 
 Et quocunque volent, animum auditoris agunto. 
 Ut ridentibus arrident. ita flentibus adfunt 
 
 Humani vultus. $1 vis me flere, dolendum eft 
 Primüm ipfi tibi; tunc tua me infortunia ledent, 
 Telephe, vel Peleu: malé fi mandata loqueris, 
 
 Aut dormitabo, aut ridebo, triftia matum 
 
 Vultum verba decent : ; iratum, plena minarum 3 
 Ludentem, lafciva ; feverum, feria didu. — 
 format enim natura pfius nos intus ad omnem 
 Fortunarum habitum : ; juvat, aut impellit ad iram, 
 Aut ad humum meerore gravi deducit, & angit : ! 
 Poft effert animi motus interprete linguá, 
 
 Si dicentis erunt fortunis abfona dicta, 
 
 Romani 
 
The Ait of Cookery: 7í 
  Pleasd as King Henry with the Miller free, - 
 Who thought himfelf as good a Man as He: 
 
 Unlefs fome Sweetnefs at the Bottom lye; 
 
 - Who cares for all the ctinkling of the Pye? 
 
 If you wou'd have me merry with your Cheer; 
 
 Be fo your felf, or fo at leaft appear. 
 
 The things we eat by various Juice controul, 
 The Narrownefs or Largenefs of our Soul: 
 Onions will make év’n Heirs or Widows weep} 
 "The tender Lettice brings on fofter Sleep. 
 
 Eat Beef or Pye-cruft if you'd ferious be: 
 
 Your Shell-fifh raifes Venus from the Sea : 
 
 For Nature that inclines to Ill or Good, 
 
 Still nourifhes our Paflions by our Food; 
 
 vo 
 d 
 
 + F 4 Happy 
 
72. JDe Ane Poetica. 
 
 Romani tollent. equites peditefque cachinnum. — 
 
 Intererit multàm, Davufne loquatur, ‘an heros 51 
 Maturufne fenex, an adhuc florente j juventà 
 Fervidus ; an matrona potens, an fedula nutrix ; 
 Mercatorne vagus, cultorne virentis agelli ; 
 
 Colchus, an Affvrius ; Thebis nutritus, an Argis. 
 
 Aut 
 
The Art of Cookery. 73 
 
 Happy the Man that has each Fortune ul. 
 To whom fhe much has giv'n, and much denyd: 
 With Abftinence all Delicates he fees, 
 
 And can regale himfelf with Toaft and Cheefe, 
 
 Your Betters will defpife you if they fte; 
 Things that are far furpaffing your degree ; 
 P Therctire beyond your Subftance never treat, | 
 "Tis Plenty in fall Fortune to be neat. — 
 . Tis certain that a Steward can't afford 
 An Entertainment equal with his Lord. 
 Old Age i is frugal, gay Youth will abound 
 With Heat, and fee the flowing Cup go round. 
 A Widow has cold Pye, Nurfe gives you Cake, 
 From gen'rous Merchants Ham or Sturgeon take. 
 The Farmer has brown Bread as frefh as Day, | 
 
 And Butter fragrant as the Dew of May. 
 Corm 
 
74. De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Aut famam fequere, aut fibi convenientia finge 
 Scriptor. Honoratum fi forté reponis Achillem j 
 Impiger, iracundus, inexorabilis, acer, à 
 Jura neget fibi nata, nihil noti artoget armis: 
 
 ! Sit Medea ferox invictaque, flebilis Ino, 
 
 Perfidus Ixion, Io vaga, triftis Oreftes. 
 
 Si quid inexpertum fcenz committis, & audes 
 
 Perfonam formare novam 5 fervetur ad imum 
 
 Ouális 
 
The Art of Cookery. 95 
 | Cornwal Squab-Pye, and Devon White-Pot brings; ' 
 | And Lei[ler Beans and Bacon, Food of Kings ! 
 
 At Chriftmas time be careful of your Fame, 
 See the old Tenant's Table be tlie fame : 
 Then if you wou'd fend up the Brawner’s Head, 
 Sweet Rofemary and Bays around it {pread : 
 His foaming Tufks let fome large Pippin grace, ? 
 Or midft thofe thund’ring Spears an Orange places 
 Sauce like himfelf, offenfive to its Foes, 
 The Roguifh Muftard, dangrous to the Nofe. 
 Sack and the well-fpicd Hippocras the Wine 
 
 Waffail the Bowl with antient Ribbands fine, 
 
 
 
 Porridge with Plumbs, and Turkeys with the Chine. Y 
 
 If you perhaps wou'd try fome. Difh unknown, 
 
 Which more peculiarly you'd. make your own, 
 
 Like 
 
76 > De dites Poetica. > 
 Qualis ab inccpto procefferit, & fibi conftet. 
 Difficile eft proprié communia dicere: tuque 
 Reétids Iliacum carmen deducis in actus, 
 
 Quam fi proferres ignota indi&daque primus. - 
 Publica materies, privati juris erit, fi ER * 
 
 . Non circa vilem patulumque moraberis orbem ; 
 Nec verbum verbo curabis reddere fidus 
 Interpres; nec defilies imitator in artum, — 
 
 Unde pedem proferre pudor vetet, aut operis lex. © 
 
 Nec fic incipies, ut fcriptor cyclicus olim : Y 
 Fortunam Priami cantabo, €& nobile bellum. 
 Quid dignum tanto feret hic promiffor hiatu ? 
 Parturient Montes: ‘nafcetur ridiculus mus. 
 
 Quanto ze&iüs hic, qui nil molitur inepte : : 
 
 4 : Dic 
 
The Art of Cookery. 77 
 | Like antient Sailors ftill regard the Coaft, —.— 
 Dy ven'tring out too far you may be loft. 
 Dy rofting that which our Forefathers boil'd, 
 And boiling what they rofted much is fpoil'd. 
 That Cook to Briti/h Palates is complete 
 
 Whofe fav’ry Hand gives Turns to common Meat. 
 
 Tho’ Cooks are often Men of pregnant Wit, 
 | Through Nicenefs of their Subject, few have writ. 
 In what an awkard Sound that antient Ballad ran, 
 
 Which with this bluft’ring Paragraph began > 
 
 There Was a D2ince of Lubberiand, - 
 & potentate of high Command, 
 Ten thoufand Bake2s did attend Hint, 
 Ten thoutand Brewers aid vefriend yim, 
 Chele bought pim Rilling Crufts, and thote 
 Brought hin fütall Weer, before be rote. 
 
 3 
 
 . 16 
 
73 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 | Dic mibi, Mufa, virum, capte poft tempora Troje, 
 
 Qui mores bominum multorum vidit, C urbes. 
 
 Non fumum ex fulgore, fed ex fumo dare lucem 
 
 Cogitat, ut fpeciofa dehinc miracula promat, 
 
 Antiphaten, Scyllamque, & cum Cyclope Cha- 
 fyblims NUN C 
 
 Nec reditum Diomedis ab interitu Meleagri, 
 
 Nec 
 
The Art of Cookery. 79 
 
 _ "The Author raifes Mountains feeming full, 
 But all the Cry produces little Wool : 
 
 So if you fue a Beggar for a Houfe, 
 And have a Verdict, what dye gain? a Loufe. 
 Homer more modeft, if we fearch his Books, 
 Will fhew us that his Heroes all were Cooks : 
 How lov'd Patroclus with Acbilles joins, 
 To quarter out the Ox, and {pit the Loins. 
 Oh cou'd that Poet live ! cou'd he rchearfe 
 
 Thy Journey, Z,——- in immortal Verfe! 
 Mufe, fing tbe Man that did to Paris go, | 
 That be might tafle their Soups, and Mufbrooms 
 
 know. 
 
 Oh how would Homer praife their Dancing Dogs, 
 Their ftinking Cheefe, and Fricafy of Frogs! 
 
 Hed 
 
80 De Arte Poetica. - 
 
 Nec gemino bellum Trojanum orditur ab ovo: — 
 Semper ad eventum feftinat ; & in medias res, 
 Non fecus ac notas, auditorem. rapit: & que 
 Defperat tractata. nitefcere poffe, relinquit : 
 Atque ita mentitur, fic veris falfa remifcet, 
 
 Primo ne medium, medio ne difcrepet imum. — ^ 
 
 Tu, quid ego & populus mecum defideret, audi. - 
 Si plauforis eges aula manentis, & ufque ' | 
 Ceffuri, donec cantor, Vos plaudite, dicat ;' 
 /Etatis cujufque notandi funt tibi mores, 
 Mobilibufque decor naturis dandus, & annis. 
 Reddere qui voces jam fcit puer, & pede certo 
 Signat humum ; geftit paribus colludere, & iram 
 
 Colligit ac ponit temere, & mutatur in horas. 
 
 Imberbis- 
 
em s | 
 The Art of Cookery. |— 83 
 . Hed raife no Fables, fing tio flagrant Lye, 
 Of Boys with Cuftatd choak'd at Newberry; 
 But their whole Courfes you'd entirely fee, . | 
 How all their Parts from firft to. laft agree; 
 
 If you all forts of Perfons wou'd engage; 
 
 Suir well your Eatables to ev'ry Age; ^ 
 
 The Favrite Child that juft begins to prattle; 
 And throws away his Silver Bells and Rattle, 
 . Is very huniorfome, and makes great clutter, 
 Till he has Windows on his Bread and Butter : | 
 He for repeated Supper-Meat will cry, 
 ‘But won't tell Mammy what he'd have, or why: | 
 | G The 
 
& 
 
 82 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Imberbis juvenis, tandem cuftode remoto, 
 
 Gaudet equis, canibufque, & aprici graminecampis - 
 Cereus in vitium fled, monitoribus afpér, — 
 Utilium tardus provifor, prodigus mri ^— 
 
 Sublimis, cupidufque, & amata relinquere pernix. 
 
 Converfis ftudiis, ztas animufque virilis 
 Quzrit opes & amicitias, infervit honori 5 
 
 Commififfe cavet quod mox mutare laboret. 
 
 4 
 Multa fenem circumveniunt incommoda ; vel quod 
 Querit, & inventis mifer abftinet , ac timet uti 5 
 ( 
 
 Vel 
 
The Art of Cookery. 83 
 
 * 
 
 The fmooth fac'd Youth that has new Guardians 
 chofe, | 
 
 — 
 
 From Play-Houfe fteps to Supper at the Rofe, (| 
 Where he a Main or two at Randomthrows:  . ^' 
 Squan'dring of Wealth, impatient of Advice, 
 
 His eating müft be Little, Coftly, Nice. 
 
 Maturer Age to this Delight grown frange, 
 Each Night frequents his Club behind the Change, — 
 Expecting there Frugality and Health, 
 
 And Honour rifing from a Sheriff's Wealth : 
 Unlefs he fome Infurance Dinner lacks, 
 
 "Tis very rarely he frequents Pontacks. 
 
 But then old Age, by ftill intruding Years, 
 
  "'Torments the feeble Heart with anxious Fears : 
 
 re | iS og Morofe, 
 
Se Dad ote Poetica. - 
 
 Vel quód res omnes timide gelidéque miniftrat, 
 Dilator, {pelongus, iners, avidufque fatuxi;) oft 
 Difficilis, querulus, laudator temporis adi ag . 
 Se puero,. caftigator cenforque minorum. pol ie. 
 Multa ferunt anni venientes Mc sid Vi 
 Multa recedentes adimunt, : Ne, forte feniles |. "ego 
 Mandentur juveni. quss, pueroque viriles 5 gi ii 
 
 Semper in adjunctis, zevoque morabimur aptis. 
 
 CLAS 9 (££ a 
 
 “Aut agitur- 5 res in (cenis, aut afta refertur, ai 
 Seoniüs irritant. animos demiffa. per aurem, .. iB; 
 Quàm quz funt oculis fubjecta fidelibus, | nk que. 
 Ipfe fibi tradit {pectator. Non tamen intus o 
 
 Digna geri, promes in fcenam: multaque tolles 
 
 Ex oculis, qux mox narret. facundia prefens, ^ C 
 
 Nec pueros coram populo.Medea trucidets 
 
 Aut 
 
SETA arr 
 The Art of Cookery. — 85 
 | Morofe, perverfe in Humor, diffidént,. | ; 
 The more hie ftill abounds, the lefs content, : 
 
 His Larder and his Kitchin too obferves, 
 
 And now, left he fhou’d want hereafter, ftarves : 
 Thinks Scorn of all the prefent Age can give, 
 
 And none thefe threefcore Years knew how to live. — 
 But - now the Cook mutt país thro' all degrees, | 
 And by his Art difcordent Tempers pleafe, 
 
 And minifter to Health and to Difeafe. 
 
 Far from the Parlor have your Kitchin placd, 
 Dainties may in their working be difgracd. : | 
 In private draw your Poultry, clean your Tripe, - 
 - And from your Eels their flimy Subftance wipe. 
 
 - Let cruel Offices be done by Night, 
 | For they who like the Thing abhor the Sight. 
 
 G 3 3 Neat. 
 
"» 
 
 86 De Arte Poetica. 
 —. Aut humana palàm coquat exta nefarius Atreus ; 
 
 Aut in avem Prozne vertatur, Cadmus in anguem. 
 
 Quodcunque oftendis mihi fic, incredulus odi. 
 
 Neve minor, neu fit quinto productior adu. 
 Fabula, quz pofci vult, & fpectata reponi. 
 Nec Deus interfit, nifi dignus vindice nodus 
 
 Inciderit : nec quarta loqui perfona laboret. 
 
 Aftoris 
 
The Art of Cookery. 87 
 
 Next let Difcretion moderate your Coft, 
 And when you treat, three Courfes be the moft. 
 Let never frefh Machines your Paftry try, : 
 Unlefs Grandees or Magiftrates are by, 
 Then you may put a Dwarf into a Pye. 
 Or if you'd fright an Alderman and Mayor, 
 Within a Pafty lodge a living Hare ; 
 Then midft their graveft Furs fhall Mirth arife, 
 And all the Guild purfue with joyful Cries. 
 
 Crowd not your Table, let your Number be 
 
 Not more than fev'n, and never lefs than three. 
 
 G 4 Tis 
 
^r 
 
 98 — De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Acoris partes chorus, officiumque virile 
 Defendat : neu quid medios intercinat actus, - 
 Quod non propofito conducat, & hzreatapté. - 
 llle bonis faveatque & confilietur amice, i Fs 1 
 Et regat iratos, GC amet peccare timentes & p E 
 Ille dapes laudet. menfz brevis, ille falubrem cy 
 Juftitiam, legefque, & apertis otia portis: | 
 Ille tegat commiffa, Deofque precetur, & oret, 
 
 Ut redeat miferis, abeat fortuna fuperbis, 
 
 Tibia. 
 
The Art of Gookery. 89 
 
 P8 the Defert that graces all the Feaft, 
 
 For an ill end difparages the reft : 
 
 . A thoufand things well done, and one forgu 
 Defaces Obligation by that Blot. 
 
 Make your tranfparent Sweet-meats truly nice, ^ 
 With Indian Sugar and Arabian Spice : 
 
 And let your various Creams incircl’d be 
 
 With fwelling Fruit juft ravifh'd from the Tree. 
 Let Plates and Difhes be from China brought, 
 With lively Paint and Earth tranfparent wrought, 
 The Feaft now done Difcourfes are renew'd, 
 
 And witty Arguments with Mirth purfu'd : 
 
 The cheerful Mafter midft his jovial F riends, 
 His Glafs to their beft Wifhes dens cu 
 
 The Grace Cup follows to his Sov ereign '8 Health, 
 
 . And to his Country Plenty, Peace and Wealth. 
 
 Perform- 
 
9o De Arte Poetica. - 
 
 Tibia non, ut nunc, orichalco vindla, tubeque 
 JEmula ; fed tenuis, fimplexque foramine pauco 
 Afpirare, & adeffe choris erat utilis, atque 
 Nondum fpiffa nimis complere fedilia flatu : 
 
 Quo fané populus numerabilis, utpote parvus, 
 
 Et frugi, caftufque, verecundufque coibat. 
 Poftquam coepit agros extendere victor, & urbem" j 
 -Latior ample&i murus, vinoque diurno . | 
 Placari Genius feftis 1mpuné diebus 5 ji 
 Acceflit numerifque modifque licentia major. 
  Indo&us quid enim faperet liberque laborum - 
 Rufticus urbano confufus, turpis honefto ? [6 
 
 Sic prifce motumque & luxuriam addidit arti 
 
 Tibicen, 
 
The Art of Cookery. 91 
 Performing then the Piety of Grace, | | 
 Each Man that pleafes reaffumes his place: 
 While at his Gate from fuch abundant Store, 
 He fhow'rs his God-like Bleffings on the Poor. 
 
 In Days of old our Fathers went to War, 
 Expecting fturdy Blows, and hardy Fare: 
 Their Beef they often in their Murrions ftew d, 
 And in their Bafket-Hilts their Bev'rage brew d. 
 Some Officer perhaps might give Confent, 
 To a large cover'd Pipkin in his Tent, 
 Where ev'ry thing that ev'ry Soldier got, 
 Fowl, Bacon, Cabbage, Mutton, and what not, 
 Was all thrown into Bank, and went to Pot. 
 But when our Conquefts were extenfive grown, 
 And thro' the World our Britifp Worth was known, | 
 Wealth on Commanders then flow'd in apace, 
 Their Champaign fparkl'd equal with their Lace : 
 
 | Quails, 
 
to - Je Arte Poetica. 
  CTibicen, traxitque vagus per. pulpita veftem = a9 : 
 Sic etiam fidibus voces crevere feveris, =~ §) 41.9 
 Et tulit eloquium infolitum facundia praeceps +) 
 Utiliumque favax rerum, & divina futuri, - 
 Sortilegis non difcrepuit fententia Delphis. | 
 Carmine qui tragico vilem certavit ob hircum, 
 Mox etiam agreftes Satyros nudavit, & afper | 
 Incolumi gravitate jocum tentavit: ed quod 
 Illecebris erat & grata novitate morandus 
 Spectator, EARS facris, & potus, & exlex, 
 Veràüm ita rifores, ita commendare dicaces 
 Conveniet Satyros, ita vertere feria ludo, 
 Ne, quicunque Deus, quicunque adhibebitur heros. 
 Regali confpettus i in auro nuper & oftro, 
 Migret in obfc curas humili fermone tabernas; : 
 Aut, dum vitat humum, nubes & inania capte M 
 Effutire leves indigna tragcedia verfus : js 
 
 Ut feftis matrona moveri jufla diebus, E 
 : : . , lnterent. 
 
The Art.of Cookery. op -— 
 Quails,- Beccoficos; Ortelans were fent 
 To.grace the Levee of a Gen’ral’s Tent. 
 In their'gilt Plate all Delicates were feen, 
 
 And what was Earth before became a rich Terrene. 
 
 . When the young Players get to ifisgios 
 
 They fondly think that all the World's their own’? 
 Prentices, Parith-Clerks, and Hedors meet, : 
 
 He that i is drunk, or bullied, pays the Treat. 
 
 Their Talk | is loofe, and o'er their bouncins Ale, 
 
 At Conftables and Juftices they rail - 
 
 Not thinking Cuftárd fuch a ferious thing, . 
 
 That Common Council Men twill thither bring, 
 
 Where many a Man at variance with his Wile, 
 
 | With foft’ ning Mead and Cheefe-Cake ends the 
 
 Strife. 
 
94 . De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Intererit Satyris paulüm pudibunda protervis. 
 
 Non ego inornata, & dominantia nomina folim, 
 
 Verbaque, Pifones, Satyrorum {criptor amabo : 
 
 Nec fic enitar tragico differre colori, 
 
 , Ut nihil interfit, .Davufne loquatur, & audax 
 
 Pythias, emunéto lucrata Simone talentum ;. 
 
 An cuftos famulufque Dei Silenus alumni. 
 
 Ex noto fi&um carmen fequar : ut fibi quivis 
 
 Speret idem ; fudet multum, fruftraque laboret 
 
 Aufus idem. Tantüm feries jun&uraque pollet : 
 
 Tantum de medio fumtis accedit honoris. 
 
 Silvis deducti caveant, me judice, Fauni, 
 
 Ne velut innati triviis, ac pené forenfes, 
 
 Aut nimiàm teneris juvenentur verfibus unquam, 
 
 Aut immunda crepent, ignominiofaque dicta. 
 
 Offenduntur eni m, quibus eft equus, & pater, &res: 
 
 Nec, fi quid fridi ciceris probat & nucis emtor, 
 
 fEquis accipiunt animis, donantve coroná. e 
 4 É Syllaba 
 
The Art of Cookery. == 95 
 
 Ev’n Squires come there, and with their mean - 
 
 Difcourfe, i 
 Render the Kitchin, which they fit in, worfe. 
 Midwives demure, and Chamber:Maids moft gay, 
 Foremen that pick the Box and come to play, 
 Here find their Entertainment at the Height, 
 In Cream and Codlings revling with Delight. 
 What thefe approve the ereat Men will diflike, 
 But here’s the Art, if you the Palate ftrike 
 By Management of common things fo well, 
 That what was thought the meaneft, fhall excel ; 
 While others ftrive in vain all Perfons own 
 
 Such Difhes cou'd be dreft by you alone. 
 
 When : 
 
96> De Arte Poetica. 
 : | " . 31301 -5mo23- e3ilgod m v 
 .- Syllaba longa brevi fubje&a, vocatur jambus; 
 Pes citus: unde etiam trimetris accrefcere juffit 5 nae 
 
 Nomen iambeis, cum fenos redderet idus; |. 000 
 | Primus ad extremum fimilis fibi: Non ita pridem, 
  Tardior ut paulo graviorque veniret ad aures, - AE 
 Spondeos'ftabiles in.jura paterna. recepit: i : | 
 Commodus X patiens; non ut de fede fecundà — . 
 Cederet aut quart’ focialiter, Hic Sin Ac .——. 
 
 Nobilibus trimetris apparet rarus, & Enni : 3 
 In fcenam miffos magno cum pondere verfus, "T 
 Aut operz celeris nimium, curáque carentis, 
 
 Aut ignorate premit artis crimine turpi. 
 
 Non quivis videt immodulata poemata judex : 
 Et data Romanis venia eft indigna poetis. 
 Idcircone vager, fcribamque licenter ? an omnes 
 Vifuros peccata putem mea, tutus, & intra 
 Spem veniz cautus? vitavi denique culpam, 
 
 Nori 
 
- The Art of Cooker}. 97 
 
 When ftraiten’d in your time, and Servants few; 
 
 : You'll rightly then compofe an Ambigue : 
 
 Where firft and fecond Courfe, and your Defert — 
 Allin our fingle Table have their part ; 
 From fuch a vaft Confufion 'tis Delight, 
 To find the j jarring Elements unite, 
 
 And taife a Stru&ure grateful to the Sight: 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 Be not too far by old Example led; 
 With Caution now we in their F ootfteps tread ! 
 The French our Relith bal and well fupply 
 The want of things too grofs by Decency. 
 
 Da Our 
 
99. De Arte Poétiea. 
 
 Non laudem merui. Vos exemplaria Graeca 
 Noéturna verfate manu, -verfate diuita. | 
 At noftri proavi Plautinos & numeros & 
 Laudavere fales ; nimitm patienter utrumque, 
 Ne dicam ftulté, mirati; fi imodo ego & vos 
 
 Scimus inurbanum lepido. feponere dido, 
 
 Legitimumque fonum HB callemus, & aure. 2. 
 
 Ignotum tragicz genus inveniffe camenz 
 Dicitur, & plauftris vexifle poemata Thefpis, 
 Que canerent agerentque perundi fecibus ora. 
 Poft hunc perfonz Palleque repertor honefte 
 Jfchylus, & modicis inftravit pulpita tignis, 
 Et docuit magnumque loqui, nitique cothurno. 
 . Succeflit vetus his Comeatia: non fine multa 
 Laude: fed in vitium libertas excidit, & vim 
 Dignam lege regi: lex eft accepta, chorufque 
 
 Turpiter obticuit, fublato jure nocendi. 
 
 Nil 
 
Tbe Art of Cookery. = 99 
 Our Fathers moft admir’d their Sauces {weet, 
 And often afk’d for Sugar with their Meat ; 
 _ They butter'd Currants on fat Veal beftow'd, 
 And Rumps of Beef with Virgin Honey ftrew'd. 
 . Infipid Taft, old Friend, to them who Paris know, 
 Where Rocombole, Shallot, and the rank Garlick 
 
 grow. 
 
 Tom Bold did firft begin the Strolling Mart, 
 And drove about his Turnips in a Cart: | 
 Sometimes his Wife the Citizens wou'd pleafe, 
 And from the fame Machine fell Pecks of Peafe. 
 Then Pippins did in Wheel-barrows abound, 
 
 And Oranges in Whimfey-boards went round. 
 Befs Hoy firft found it troublefome to bawl, 
 And therefore placd her Cherries on a Stall ; 
 Her Currants there and Goofeberries were fpread, 
 With the enticing Gold of Ginger-bread : 
 | H 2 But 
 
100  JDe Arte Poetica. 
 
 Nil intentatum noftri liquere poeta, 
 Nec minimum meruere decus, vefligia Graeca 
 Aufi deferere, & celebrare domeftica fada, 
 Vel qui pratextas, vel qui docuere rogatas. 
 Nec virtute foret clarifve potentius armis. 
 
 Quam lingua, Latium, fi non offenderet unum- 
 emque poetarum lime labor, & mora, vos, 0 
 Pompilius fanguis, carmen reprehendite, quod non 
 
 Multa dies & multa litura coercuit, atque 
 
 Perfe&üm decies non caftigavit ad unguem. 
 
 Ingenium - 
 
The Art of Cookery. — 101 
 But Flounders, Sprats, and Cucumbers were cry’d, 
 And ev'ry Sound, and ev'ry Voice was try'd. | 
 At laft the Law this hideous Din fuppreft, 
 _ And order'd that the Sunday fhould have reft, 
 _ And that no Nymph her noify Food fhould fell, 
 
 SE s ‘ 
 Except it were new Milk or Maccarel. 
 
 There is no Difh but what our Cooks have made, 
 And merited a Charter by their Trade. 
 Not French Kick-fhaws, or Oglio’s brought from Spain, 
 Alone have found Improvement from their Brain ; 
 But Pudding, Brawn, and White-pots own'd to be 
 
 Th’ Effeds of Native Ingenuity. 
 
 Our Britifb Fleet which now commands.the Main 
 
 Might glorious Wreaths of Vidory obtain 
 
 / 
 
 H 3 00 Won'd 
 
102 De Arte Poetica. 
 
 Ingenium mifera quia fortunatius arte 
 Credit, & excludit fanos Helicone poetas 
 Democritus ; bona pars non ungues ponere curat, 
 Won barbam : fecreta petit loca, balnea vitat. 
 Nancifcetur enim precium nomenque poeta, 
 Si tribus Antyciris caput infanabile, nunquam 
 Tonfori Licino commiferit. O ego levus, 
 Qui purgo bilem fub verni temporis horam! 
 Non alius faceret meliora poemata: verti 
 Nil tanti eft. Ergo fungar vice cotis, acutüm —— 
 
 Reddere que ferrum valet, exfors ipfa fecandi : 
 
 4 | |... Muni . 
 
The Art of Cookery. 103 
 Wou'd they take time : Wou'd they with E iffe 
 | work, pr | 
 With Care wou'd falt their Beef, and cure their Pork; 
 Wou'd boil their Liquor well whene'er they brew, 
 
 ‘Their Conqueft half is to the Viffualler due. 
 
 Becaufe that Thrift and Abftinence od 
 
 As many things if rightly underftood, | 
 Old Cro/s condemns all Perfons to be Fops 
 "That can't regale themfelves with Mutton-Chops. 
 He often for ftuft Beef to Badlan runs, 
 And the clean Rummer, as the Peft Houfe, fhuns. - 
 Sometimes poor Jack and Onions at his Difh, — 
 And then he faints thofe Fryars who ftink of Fith, 
 As for my felf I take him to abftain, | 
 Who has good Meat, with Decency, tho’ plain ; 
 But tho’ my Edge be not too nicely fet, | 
 Yet I another's Appetite may whet i 
 | H 4 May 
 
104 De Arte Poetica, 
 Munus & Officium, nil fcribens ipfe, docebo; 
 Unde parentur opes 1 quid alat formetque poetam T 
 Quid deceat, quid non, quo virtus, quà ferat 
 
 EITOT, 4 
 
 Scribendi rede, fapere.eft & principium & fons, 
 Rem tibi Socraticz poterunt oftendere charte : 
 Verbaque provifam rem non invita fequentur. 
 Qui didicit patrie quid debeat, & quid amicis, . 
 Quo fitamore parens, quo frater amandus, & hofpes, | 
 
 Quod fit confcripti, quod judicis ofücium, que 
 Partes in bellum mifíi ducis ; ille profe&à 
 Reddere perfone fcit convenientia cuique. 
 Refpicere exemplar vitze morumque jubebo 
 Do&um imitatorem, & veras hinc ducere voces, 
 Interdum {peciofa locis, morataque rede Te 
 
 Fabula, nullius veneris, fine pondere & arte, 
 
 Valdius 
 
—. The Art of Cookery. 108 
 
 . May each him when to buy, when Srt paft, : 
 
 What's ftale, what's choice, what plentiful, what f. 
 wait, : i | | 
 
 And lead him thro’ the various Maze of Tafte. 
 
 _  Thefundamental Principle of all 
 
 Is what ingenious Cooks the Relifh call ; 
 
 For when the Market fends in Loads of Food, 
 They all are taftelefs till that makes them good. 
 Befides "tis no ignoble piece of Care, 
 
 To know for whom it is you wou'd prepare : 
 Youd pleafe AF riend, or reconcile a Brother, 
 
 A tefty Father, ora haughty Mother: 
 
 Wou'd mollitie a Judge, wou'd cram a Squire, 
 Or elfe fome Smiles from Court you may defire: 
 Or wou'd perhaps fome hafty Supper give, 
 
 To fhew the fplendid State in which you live. 
 
 Purfuant 
 
106 | De Arte Poetica. 
 Valditis obledat populum, melitifque omen aly! 
 
 pn verfus inopes rerum ee Canora, 
 
 Graiis ingenium, Graiis dedit ore rotundo 
 Mufa loqui, preter laudem nullius avaris. 
 Romani pueri longis rationibus affem — 
  Difcunt in partes centum diducere. Dicat 
 Filius Albini, fi de quincunce remota eft 
 — "Uncia, quid fuperat? poteras dixiffe —Triens Eu! 
 Rem poteris fervare tuam. Redit uncia: quid fit? 
 
 Semis, Ad hzc animos erugo & cura peculi — — 
 
 Cüm 
 
T be Art of Cookery. 107 
 | Purfuant to that Int’reft you propofe, — 
 
 Mutt all your Wines, and all your Meat be chofe. 
 | Let Men and Manners ev'ry Bifh adapt, 
 
 Who'd force his Pepper where his Guefts are clapt? 
 - A Caldron of fat Beef and Stoop of Ale, 
 
 On the huzzaing Mob fhall more prevail, - 
 "Than if you give them with the niceft Art 
 Ragoufts of Peacocks Brains, or Filbert Tart. - 
 
 The French by Soups and Haut-goufts Glory raife, 
 And their Defires all terminate in Praife. | 
 The thrifty Maxim of the wary Dutch, 
 Is to fave all the Money they can touch: 
 Hans, crys thé Father, fee a Pin lies there, - 
 A Pin.a Day will fetch a Groat a Tear. 
 4o your five Fartbings join three Fartbings more, 
 And they, if added, mike your half Pence four. 
 
 Thus 
 
as 
 
 308 De Arte Poetica. 
 Cüm femel imbuerit, fpéramus carmina fingi. 
 
 Poffe linenda cedro, & lévi fervanda cupreífo? —. 
 
 Aut prodeffe volunt, aut'deledtare poete... . 
 Aut fimul & jucunda & idonea dieere vite... 
 Quidquid precipies, efto brevis: ut cito dida. 
 Percipiant animi dociles, teneantque fideles. 
 
 "Omne fupervacuum pleno de pectore manat. 
 Fi&a voluptatis caufa, fint proxima VETIS ; | 
 Nec quodcunque. volet, pofcat fibi fabula credi: 
 Neu pranfz Lamiz vivum puerum extrahat alvo, | 
 Centuriz feniorum agitant expertia frugis : 
 Celfi pratereunt auftera poemata. Rhamnes. _ 
 
 . Omne tulit punctum, qui mifcuit utile dulci, 
 Lectorem delectando, pariterque monendo. _ 
 
 Hic meret ara liber Sofiis 5 hic & mare tranfit, 
 
D - The Art of Cookery. — 109 
 
 Thus may your Stock by Management encreafe, 
 
 
 
 Your Wars fhall gain you more than Britain's Peace. | | 
 Where Love of Wealth and rufty Coin prevail, 
 - What hopes of fugar'd Cakes or butter d Ale? 
 
 | Cooks garnifh out fome Tables, fome they fill, 
 Or ina prudent Mixture fhew their Skill : 
 
 Clog not your conftant Meals, for Difhes few : 
  Encreafe the Appetite, when choice and new. 
 -Evn they who will Extravagance profefz, 
 
 | Have ftill an inward Hatred for Excefs, 
 
 | Meat forc'd too much, untouch'd at Table lies, "s 
 | Few care for carving Trifles in Difeuife, | > 
 Or that fantaftick Difh, fome call Surprife. — M 
 . When Pleafures to the Eye and Palate meer, 
 
 That Cook has rendred his great Work complete : . 
 
 . His glory far, like Sir-Loins, Knighthood flies, 
 
 1 Immortal made as Kit-cat by his Pies. 
 
 Good 
 
310. De Arte Poetica, 
 
 Et longum noto fcriptori proregat zvum. 
 
 Sunt delia tamen, quibus ignoviffe velimus: 
 Nam neque corda fonum reddit quem vult manus. 
 
 & mens, MN | 
 Pofcentique gravem perfzpe remittit acutum : 
 Nec femper feriet quodcunque minabitur arcus. ; 
 Veràm ubi plura nitent in carmine, non ego paucis. — 
 Offendar maculis, quas aut incuria fudit, 
 Aut humana parum cavit natura. Quid ergo ? 
 Ut fcriptor fi peccat idem librarius ufque, . 
 Quamvis eft monitus, venia caret 5. & citharcedus 
 Ridetur, cordá qui femper. oberrat eddem e in 4 
 Sic mihi qui multim ceffat, fit Choerilus ille, - 
 Quem bis terque bonum, cum rifu miror; & idem. | 
 Indignor, quandoque bonus dormitat Homerus. 
 
 Veràm opere in longo fas eft obrepere fomnum. — 
 
 Ut 
 
ei 
 
 The Art of Cookery. 93 
 
 | Good Nature muft fome Failings overlook, 
 
 Not Wilfulnefs, but Errors of the Cook. 
 
 | AString won't always give the Sound defign'd 
 
 By the Mufitian's Touch, and Heav’nly Mind ; 
 Nor will an Arrow from the Parthian Bow 
 
 “Still to the deftin’d Point dire&ly go. 
 
 Perhaps no Salt is thrown about the Difh, | 
 Or no fry'd Parfley fcatterd on the Fifh ; i 
 - Shall I in Paffion from my Dinner fly, 
 
 : ‘And hopes of Pardon to my Cook deny, 
 
 For Mikes which Carelefsnefs might overfee, 
 
 . And all Mankind commit as well as he? 
 
 I with Compaflion once may overlook 
 
 E Scewer fent to Table by my Cook : 
 
 But 
 

 
 112 De Arte Poetica; —— 
 
 Ut pi&ura, pocíis: erit, qua, fi propiüs fles; - 
 Tecapiat magis ; & quzdam, fi longius abftes: —— 
 Hzc amat obfcurum ; volet hzc fub luce videri, 
 
 Judicis argutum qux non formidat acumen : ' 
 ing 
 
 4- : Hee 
 
That he fhou'd daily the fame Fault commit, | 
 
 — But think: not. therefore tamely Dll permit. _ 
 
 For fear the Rafcal fend me up the Spit. 
 
 The on f Cookery. 113 | 
 
 
 
 Poor Roger. Fowler had a gen'rous Mind. 
 
 . Nor would fubmit to have his Hand confin’d, 
 
 But aim'd at all, yet never cou'd excel 
 
 In any thing but ftuffing of his Veal : 
 
 But when that Difh was in Perfection feen, 
 
 - And that alone, wou'd it not move your Spleen ? ’ 
 
 » Tis true, ina long Work foft Slumbers creep, 
 And gently fink the Artift into Sleep. 
 Even Lamb himfelf, at the moft folemn Feaft 
 mar’ have fome Cherie not exadlly dreft. 
 
 Tables flou 'd be like Pidures to the Sight, 
 
 ; Some Difhes caft in Shade; fome dread i in Light, 
 .— Some at a diftance brighten, fome near hand, 
 
 Where Eafe may all their Delicace command : 
 
 I Be Some 
 

 
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 Tolle memof)ertig sdediibhr & voldabilé'sebüs t 
 Re&é concedis leoifakéus juris) i& aélor ^; diy ut oat y 
 
 
 
 Caufarunrimediocris;: abeft virtuté difortk: SCR Lu "m 
 Metals, "nec. fcit quantum Caffelling, | Aulus; i (A 
 Sed tdinieh’ HOP RCIO! di dédióc ibis efi eis 
 Non homines,“non Di: Te columna... 
 
 Ut gratas intet: men fas fymphonia | difcoisj«.: [ neg 
 
 Et craffüm mpiiemtumy &Sardo cam melle peii i 
 
 Lo 
 
 
 
 
 . Offendunt ; poterat duci quia ccena fine iftis : Po ow" 
 
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 26 LANE C ut 16 
 
 T fhou'd be mov d when broken, eidiéri lif ? 
 
 Thro’ thé whole Tied incentive to thé Tafte 
 ‘Locket by many Labours feeble grown 
 
 Up from the Kitcliin ¢all'd his eldeft Son : : : "t 
 
 ^i + Tho’ "wife thy felf. ays he) tho’ taught’ by y "jid: 
 
 L Yet n: this Sentence i in: thy Memory; 
 
 : 4; These : áre dome certain things that doi? t extel, 
 
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 & There's many. worthy. Men aLawyet D 
 
 « Whom they: diftiheuith : ds of nfiddle fizes 
 
 « Por pleadiae well at Bat, or ‘turning Books, | 
 * But this i is not (riy. Som) the: Fate ‘Of Cooks, 
 
 & ‘Prontwhofe myfteriotis Art trad Pleature {prines: 
 ® To Stall of Gatter, and to Throne of Kings, 
 
 & A fimple Scene, idifoblising Sóng, 
 
 « Which no way to thé main Défign belong; — 
 
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 Liber & 1 ingenaus, prafegim. cenfus equeftrem’. ° 
 
 Summam nummorum, vitioque remotus ab: onini 
 
 Tu nihil invitá dices faciefye Mifietva a Ü ee HV. as 3 
 
 Id tibi judicium eft, £a -mens, | Si quid tamen nel 
 
 Scripferis, 1n-Meti. defcendat. judicis. aurea, 
 
 . Et patris, & noftras; nonumque prematur in annum. 
 
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 The Art of Cookery. 117 
 
 
 
 “ Or were they abfent never wou'd be mifs'd, 
 « Have made a well-wrought Comedy be hifs'd : 
 * So ina F eaft,. no intermediate E CALI s 
 
 * Will be allow'd, but if not deft” tis napght. 
 
 He that of feeble Nerves and Joints complains |. 
 E rom Nine-pins, Coits, and from Trap-ball abflains; . 
 Cudgels avoids, and fhuns the wreftling place, x 
 Left Vinegar refounds his loud Difgrace, 
 | But ev'ry one to Cookery pretends, 
 
 Nor Maid, or Miftrefs e’er confult their Friends. 
 But, Sir, if you wou'd roft a Pig, be free; /— 
 Why not with Brawn, with Locket, or with me? 
 .. Well fee when ‘tis enough, when both Eyes out, 
 Or if it pants the nice concluding bout. 
 
 But if it lies too long the Crackling’s pall’d, 
 
 Not by the drudging Box to be recall’d. 
 
 I 3 eld | Qur 
 

 
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 Di&us & Amphion, Thebanz conditor. arcis, mM 
 oaxa movere fono teftudinis, & prece. blandà rl je 1 
 Dütere quo vélleti Fuit lio fápientia quondam, x. 
 Publica privatis fecernere, facra profanis? Oh "8 sf E 
 Concubitu prohibere vago ;  éaiej ques máritis; 34 
 
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 | Oppida moliri; leges incideve ligno. 3 ote a 
 Sic honor & nomen divinis vatibus UM gv: a 
 
 Car minibus venit. Poft hos infignis bini nde L. 
 T. yrtéufque Mares: animos in Martia bella - : 
 Verlibus exacuit. Dice per Carmina foe, 
 
 Et vitz monftrata via eft, & gratia sunt 
 
 Pierius tentata modis, ludufque repertus, 
 
 Et longorum operum finis : ne forté pudori, ^ ~ 
 pit ubi mufa lyra folers, & cantor Apollo. : 
 
"Ihe Art of Cookery. - 119 
 
 Our Cambrian Fathers fparing in their Food, 2 
  Firft broil’d their hunted Goats: on Bars of Wood. 
 Sharp Hunger was their Seas'ning, or they took 
 
 - Such Salt as iffu'd from the native Rock. 
 
 | Their fallading was never far to feek, | 
 The poynant Water-grafs or fav’ry Leek ; 
 Until the Briti/b Bards adorn’ d this Ifle, 
 And taught them how to roft, and how to boil: 
 Then Thalieffen rofe and fweetly ftrung 
 5 His Britifh Harp, inftru&ing whilft he fung: 
 
 Taught them that Honefty they ftill pofiefs, 
 
 Their Truth, their open Heart, their modeft Drefs, 
 Duty to Kindred, Conftancy to Friends, 
 And inward Worth, -which always recommends, | 
 Contempt of Wealth and Pleafure to appear 
 . "Fo all Mankind with hofpitable Cheer. 
 
 Pa ok Jn 
 

 
E def of Cookers, 121 
 In after Ages dribur taught his Knights | 
 . At his round Table to. record their Fights; : 
 . Cities erazd,  Encampments forcd in Field, 
 ] Monfters fubdu'd, and hideous, Tyrants’ quell i 
 Infpir'd that, Cambrian Soul which ne'er can ‘ea 
 "Then Guy, the Pride of Warwick, truly great, ? 
 . To future Heroes due Example fet, | 
 By his capacious Cauldron made appear, | | 
 | From whence the Spirits rife, and Strength of War. .- 
 The prefent Age to Gallantry euclind, | 
 Is pleasd with vaft Improvements of the Mind. 
 He that of Honour, Wit and Mirth partakes, 
 | May be a fit Companion oer Beef-fteaks 
 His Name may be to future Times enroll 
 In Effcourt’s Book, whofe Gridirn's fram'd of Gold, 
 Scorn not thefe Lines defign'd to let you know 
 Profits that from a well-placd Table flow. 
 
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 ~ Ts lodg’d by Nature, or attain’d by Books : 
 
 | That Man will never frame a noble Tete 
 
 “tsa 
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 Whofe whole Dependance. lies.on fome Receipt... 
 Then by pure Nature ev'ry thing,1s fpaildy.: 
 
 . She knows no more than ftew'd; TM d m and 
 
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 The Lad that wou'd his Genius fo advance; 
 That on the Rope: he might fecurely dance, 
 From tender Years) inures himfelf to Pains, 
 
 To Summer’s parching Heat; and Winter Rains, 
 And from the Fire of Wine-and Love abftains. 
 
 
 
 No Artift can his Haut-hoys Stops command, 
 
 Unlefs fome fkilful Mafter form his Hand ; 
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 Ox Cheek dtr hot; and Wardens bak'd:fome ey, 
 But "its with an Intention Men fhou'd buy. | 
 Others abound with fuch a plenteous Store, 
 "That if you'll let them treat they'll afk no more: 
 And 'tis the vaft Ambition of their Soul, 
 "To fee their Port admir'd, and Table full. 
 . But then amidft that cringing fawning Crowd, 
 Who talk fo very much, and laugh fo loud, 
 Who with fuch Grace his Honour's Adions praife, 
 How well he fences, dances, fines and plays ; 
 ‘Tell him his Liv'ry's rich, his Chariot’s fine, 
 How choice his Meat, and delicate his Wine, 
 
 din Surrounded 
 

 
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 The Perficn Kings with Wine-and maffy Bowl | 
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 Vir bonus & prudens verfüs reprehendet. inertes, : 
 Culpabit duros, incomtis allinet atrum... ^, 
 Tranfverfo calamo fignum 3. ambitiofa recidet > 
 
 Ornamentas parum claris hicem dare coget; 1 : 
 
 " x p77 »* : 
 " > & wh % 
 Li IT egy ee) UE VILAM, - VORNE: 
 
The Art of Cookery. — 359. 
 Great Meh have dearly this Coitipadion — ) 
 Unlefs by thefe Infirudions they'll bé' taught, : 
 They Eg Net! rarid will themfelves Be ee. 
 
 ex ry ccm ny Ne b 
 thee ¥F. un . HD 'DIT 
 
 i? 
 m Pa J Aw Sf ie MIHI Me afe ^ Qu Seale Pn 
 
 
 
 ^ Were Horace, that great Mafter, now alive, 
 A Feaft with Wit and Judgment he'd contrive. 
 As thus fuppofing that you wou'd rehearfe 
 A labour’ d Work, and every Difh a Verte. 
 
 Hed fay, mend this, andt 'other Line, and this ; 
 
 
 
 If after Tryal it were ftill amifs, 
 
 Hed bid you give it a new Turn of Face, 
 Or fet fome Difh more curious in its place. 
 If you perfift he wou'd not ftrive to move - 
 A Paffion fo delightful as Self-love. 
 
 "We fhou'd fubmit our Treats to Criticks View, 
 And ev'ry prudent Cook fhou'd read £//ju. 
 
 K Judgment 
 
13e De Arte Poetica, — 
 Arguet ambigu&; ditum; mutanda notabit s... 
 
 Fiet Ariftarchus ; nec dicet, Cur ego amicum = 
 Offendam in nugis? ha nugm feria ducent... s 
 In mala derifum femel, exceptumque finiftre, 
 

 
 Judgment provides the Meat i in Seafon fit, 
 
 - Which by the Genius dreft, its Es is Wit, 
 Good Beef for Men, Pudding for Youth and Age, | 
 . Come up to the Decoruin of the "Sage, 57^ 
 The Critick ftrikes out all that i is not juft, 
 And "tis ev'n fo the Butler chips his Crutt, 
 Poets and Paftry Cooks will be the fame, 
 Since both of them their Images matt frame. | 
 Chimera's from the Poet's F ancy flow, 
 
 MS Cook contrives his Shapes rs real. Dough, | 
 
 ‘When Truth commands there’ S no Man cah offend, | 
 That with a modeft Love correds his Friend, 
 Tho’ ‘tis in toafting Bread, or butt'ring Peate, 
 
 |. So the Reproof has Temper, Kindnefs, Eafe. 
 
 But why fhou'd we reprove when Faults are fmall? 
 
 Becaufe 'tis better to have none at all. 
 
 K 2 There's 
 
ee a ^ 
 yi v LU D v VA ay 
 ds k 1 i "» fem AN 
 i PIN: : NUES, M & Lunes Tuo rr 
 m Die ge o uel UMP V o. td ir : 
 Pb. : 1 Nac $ yg ar wm ah t. cn TE , 
 bos = a Low JE as t 5 , Y 4 , i d 
 j y x £ ) geri. i : ' bd 
 ity : ^ M URN NF OE ; ! 
 & 1 Ext Fe » 
 ^ 4 gu i 2 | | 
 T , » OR * “a M i -—5 
 J ws ee ee Ea 
 ‘ A mA odd 
 ij ^ DT A d 
 C * s i LV NR 
 N AT of i 
 5JÀ - - MES T : care ee 
 b: A 
 i x 
 * cx * Y" X s 
 i Wd jr 3 
 i £ A c.v ar alt * 
 
 Velim teli timent v igi ron a ey. ki 
 
 wad 
 
 Qui fapiunt : : agitant pueri, ose ie fequanear, » 
 
 on do Soe 
 
 Hic, dum fublimes verfus rudatur, & errat, Sian 
 $i veluti merulis intentus decidit auceps 
 
 In puteum, foresee : dicet, Saceurrite, longum A 
 Clamat, io cives non fit qui tollere curet. is T 
 Si qui curet opem ferre, & demittere fanem ; 5. 
 
 ‘Oui fcis, an prudens huc fe dejecerit, atque FRE 
 Servari nolit: > dicam, Siculique pocta i 4 . 
 Narrabo i interitum, Deus immortalis haberi. | y 
 Dum cüpit Empedodles, ardentem frigidus «S SER 
 Infiluit, Sit jus, liceatque perire poetis. 
 Tnvitura qui fervat, idem facit occidenti. | 
 Nee femel hoc fecit; nec fi retradus erit, jam 
 
 X34 wo 
 
 . ow 
 "s 
 
1 
 -— n 
 
 The Art p Gold. UE 3; 3 
 
 There’ s often Weight; in Things that feern the Jat; 3 
 
 And our x nio mutis Follies raife the ah 
 
 Tis by his Cleiiilinets a Cook inuft — 
 A Kitchin will admit of no Difeafe. 
 "The Fowler ion the Huntfman both may ruri 
  Amidft that Dirt which he mutt nicely fhun, 
 Empedocles a Sage of old would raifé, 
 A Name immortal by unufual Ways ; 
 At laft his Fancies grew fo very odd, 
 He thought by rofting to bé made a God; 
 
 Tho? fat he leapt with his unwieldy Stuff | 
 
 | : In y s Flames, fo to have Fire enough, 
 Were my Cook fat and Ia ftander by. 
 td rather than himfelf his Fith (hou E 2d 
 
 d Rec (ome Diifons fb oit rude; 
 That to yout private Table they ll intrude. 
 hof K 3 id 
 

 
 E 34. | fe Bei 
 ] Fiet hómó; e iud & : 
 Nec fatis apparet; cur verfüs. f Gitet. jtitrüm.. de de 3 
 
 
 
 ole " mortis amorerity, se | r 
 
 Minxerit in patrios cineres, an trifte bidenta] L3 
 
 Moverit inceftus : certà: furit, ac velit uda d 
 
 Objectos caver valuit. fi frangere. clathros, Bp gi ib 
 
 Indo&um nde ane recitator Tela 3 iot | p 
 
 1. 4 CS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 : Non miffura cutem, "aif EAD. cruoris, TUE : oe ‘ 
 i t j Pi 
 As AA 
 "ero M 
 » fg 
 
The Art " oli: à35 
 In vain you fly, in vain pretend to faft, 
 Tum Lik a Fox they'll catch you at the laft. 
 
 
 
 nut, ince Bars and Doors are no Defence, 
 Ev: n quit your Houfe as ina Peftilence, 
 ; Be quick, nay very quick, or he'll approach | "t 
 | And as you're fcamp'ring ftop you in your Coach 
 Then think of all your, Sins and you will fee s 
 How Tight your Guilt and Punifhment agrees ee 
 Perhaps no tender Pity cou d prevail, 
 But you: would throw fome Debtor i into Jail. 
 . Now mark th’ Effect of his prevailing Curfe, 
 You are detain’ d by fomething that is wore. 
 Were it in my Election I fhou'd choofe, 
 To meet a ray nous Wolf or Bear got loofe + 
 Hell eat and talk, and talking ftill will eat, 
 No Quarter from the Parafite you'll gef ; 
 — But like a Leech well fix'd he'll fuck what’ good, 
 And never part till fatisfy'd with Blood. - : 
 
 FINI 8, " Áo 
 

 
 ae ‘ot bat: "1 nisy © Ke io uox V nine 21 | 
 
 
 
 5gOtGqS il'od To eloivp siste va eMipel x 
 
 t8 1009 To Mr? s moe por Gite = bak 
 sat Hiw gov. bas amie 2 dex is dain adm - 
 Drs Fi oF bita pes dai iw n E | 
 o Malt c communicate my. Hap pinefs | 
 LES to Vou, becaufe. you ate foi Gic 
 2:9 yas omy: Friend: asvito réjoice rat td — 
 paw I. fome, Days. ago, “met ith. an E 
 old Acquaintance, a curious Perfon, of whom - 
 I enquir'd if he^had feen the Book: concern. 
 ing Soups arid: Sauces: the told me ;he: hady 
 but that. he, had but a very flight View of i it 
 the Perfon who was Mafter of it not qd | 
 willing:to part with fo: valuable a Rarity’ out 
 of his Clofet.; I defir'd him to give. me what 
 account he could of it, He fays, That it is 
 a very handíóme ‘Otavo: for ever fi ince the 
 Dey of giis ri Paper, and good Print, 
 | and 
 
 
 
 

 
 Pig Li er, pe x. 737 
 qu in Cuts make. a Book become; ingenious, " 
 nd.b ghten up an Author ftrangely. - That 
 bs a Ei. Index, and at the end a 
 
 at UE. of all, the Do&or's Works concern- 
 hg oos "En Beetles, Snails. >, Spiders 
 
 at get up inte the Air and throw. us down 
 ses a-Monfter vomited up by a Baker, 
 pr fh like; Which y AE carefull y Actas. | 
 
 Med. A CON 
 
 
 
 any 1 eil ven that «e can. be heard. of: fo 
 t that this ‘Tmpreflion is from one of aon 
 bergius, Who; as. my. Friend. fays, he does 
 not bi lieve: contriv'd it 'himfelf, becaufe the 
 | things are fo. very much out of the: way, that it 
 is not pto able any learned -Man would {et 
 himtelé ferioufly to sate to invent em. He 
 tells-me of this ingenious Remark aide by 
 the. Editor, That mhatever: Manufcripts there 
 aight iet been, they anf have been extremes 
 ly viitious: and corrupt, as being writ out by the 
 | Cooks themfelves, or fome. of their Friends or, 
 Servants, who are not always the moft acnrate. 
 And then, as my, Friend obferv'd, if the Cook 
 had He, it, , much, it might be fullic ed; . tlie 
 T ^ * Cook: 
 
 r4 
 
 
 
OP SOL? NP M vx 
 
 138 LET Pw KR $- d | 
 
 | Cook perhaps nót always Ticki inp his F in TEN 
 ; when he had occafion for it. ^ I fhould think 
 $t no improvident matter for the State to ‘or 
 
 
 
 der a felec& Scrivener to. tránfcribe. Receipts, 4 
 
 
 
 
 left ignorant — ‘Women and “How e-keepers 
 fhould impofe upon fütüte Ages by ill- pele 
 and uncorre& Recéipts for Poking of: Lob- 
 fters, or Pickling of Turkeys. - elius. Api- 
 CLUS it feems, paffes. for the ‘Author of hi 
 Treatife, whole Science, ‘Learning and Difti- 
 pline were extremely éontelii ds "and almoft 
 
 abhorr’d by Sezeca and the Stóichs , as intro- 
 . ducing Luxury, and infe&ini 
 the Romans, and fo lay negl ected. till the i. 
 
 
 
 
 
 ferior ‘Ages, ue tHe? were introducd as be. - 
 
 the Manriers ot 
 
 ing a help to Phyfick , to which a learned — 
 
 Author, call'd Donatus,  füys, that the Kitch- 
 in is a Handmaid. I remember in our Days, 
 
 tho’ we cannot in every. refpedt. conie up to 
 the Antients, that by a very good Author an. 
 old Cenlteatin | 1s introduc’d as making ufe of | 
 
 three Doctors, Dr. Diet, Dr. Quiet, and 
 Dr. Merriman. They are reported to be. ex- 
 
 cellent Phyfitians, and if kept at a conftant: | 
 
 NM, their Fees will not be very coftly. ” 
 
 ~ 
 
 te 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others, 139 
 
 ott feems; as my Friend has learnt, there 
 
 were two Perfons that bore the Name of A 
 
 cius, one under the Republick, the other in 
 the time. of Tiberius, who is recorded by Pi. 
 "yy ‘To have bad a great deal of Wit and Fudg- 
 < ment in all Affairs that related to Eating, and 
 confequently has his Name affix'd to. many 
 forts of Amulets and Pancakes, Nor were 
 Emperors lefs Contributors to fo great an Un- 
  dertaking, as Vitellius , Commodus , Didius 
 Julianus ,' and. Varins Heliogabalus, whofe 
 imperial: Náines are prefix'd to manifold Re. 
 ceipts. The laft of which Emperors: had the. 
 | peculiar Glory of firft making Saufages of 
 Shrimps; Crabs, Oyfiers, Sprawns;. and Lob- 
 .fters. And thefe Saufages being. mention'd 
 by the Author which the Editor publithes, 
 from that and many other Arguments the 
 ' Learned: DoGor irefragably: maintains , that 
 the Book, asnow printed, could not be tran- 
 fcrib d till after the time of Heliogabalus, who 
 gloried in the Titles of Apicius and Vitellius, 
 more than Antoninus ,- who had gain'd Hi 
 ' Reputation by a ‘temperate, auftere, and 
 . folid Virtue, And, it. feems, under his Ad- 
 mini- 
 
 
 
140 ai ITE R $ 10. j 
 
 | minifiration: id Bein that found out: a CN 1 
 Soup might -have as great a Reward. as Drak K | 
 or Dampier might expe& for finding a news — 
 u Continent: .My Friend fays the Editor tells: 4 
 , us of unhestit of Dainties ; how Afopus had. 
 di Supper. of the "Fongues' of Birds that. could. eS 
 fpeak ; and that his Daughter, regal’d om — 
 Pearls, tho’ he does not tell us how the dre — 
 ‘em; at Hortenfius lett ten. thoufand. Pipes Ped 
 of Wine in his Cellar for his Heirs drinking 5 m 
 how V. edius Pollio fed his Fifh-ponds with Man’s 
 Flefh,’ and-how Cefar bought fix: ‘hoeland : 
 Weight of ‘Lampreys for his Triumphal Suppers - 
 He {ays the Editor proves equally. to.a Demon- 
 ftratton, by the Proportions and Quantities fee — 
 down, and the Naufeoufnels of the Ingredients) 
 that the Dinners of the Eniperors were order'd. 
 by their Phyfitians, and that the Recipe was 
 taken by the Cooks, as the Collegiate. Do: | 
 ors would. do their Bills to. a Modern Apo: 
 thecary, and that this Cuftom was taken from 
 the Egyptians , and that this Method conti- 
 nued till.the, Goths and Vandals. over-ran the 
 Weftern Empire, and that they by Ufe, Exers - 
 ife, and Neceifi ity of Abltingiices introduc aq. 
 | id 
 
 
 
 PL 
 
 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. © 14% 
 
 the eating’ of Cheeft and Venifon: without 
 "xhofe additional Sauces, which the Phyfitians 
 of old found. out to reftore the deprav'd Ap- 
 petites of fuch great Men as had loft their 
 Stomachs. by. an Excefs’of Luxury. - Qut of 
 ^i the Ruins of Era/i iftratus his Book of Endive, ^ 
 Glaucus. Lorrenfis of Cow-heel, Mithecus d 
 -Hot-pots , Dionyfius. of Sugar Sops ;- Agis of . 
 Pickled pira; Epinetus of Sack poffet 
 Enthedemus of Apple-dumplings, Hegefippus- OE 
 Biack.pudding, Crito of Sowe'd Maccarel , Sté- 
 phanus of Linon Cream, Archytes of Hogs 
 Harflet, Aceftins of Guinde Marmalade, Hice- 
 | fi is of Potted Pidgeons, Diocles of Sweet- AMA * 
 " and Philiftion of Oat Cakes,. and feveral other 
 ^ fuch Authors, the great Humelbergins com- 
 Pos 'd his Annotations upon Apicius, whole Re- 
 -ceipts when part of Tully, Livy, ‘and Tacitus 
 have been negletied and loft, were prefery'd 
 in the utmoft Parts of Tranfilvania for the 
 | peculiar Palate of the ingenious Editor. Lati- 
 nus Latigins finds fault-with feveral Difhes of 
 Apicius, and 1s pleasd to fay they are nau- 
 {eous, but our Editor defends that oreat Per- 
 fon by fhewing the difference of our Cuftoms, 
 
 ho: W 
 
a423 LE TTE RS 
 
 how Plutarch fays the Antients us'dno Pople P 
 whereas all, or at leaft five or fi x hundred of | | 
 Apicins’ S Delieites were: feafon'd with i it. For — 
 
 we may as well admire that fome: Weft Indians 
 ‘fhould abftain from. Salt; as that we thould | 
 
 be able to bear the Bteknois of .E lops in our 
 common Drink; and therefore we fhou'd: not 
 be averfe to. Rue,  Cummin,. ?Parfley. Seed, 
 
 Maríh-mallows, n: Nettles vili oür common | 
 
 Meat, or to have Pepper, Honey, Salt, 2 
 
 negar ,. Raifons, Muftard, and Oyl, 
 
 Mattick, and Cardamums frown pees Sav 
 
 over our Dinner when it comes to Table. | My | 
 
 Friend tells me of fome fhort Obfervations he 
 
 made out of the Annotations, which he« owés 
 
 to his Memory, and therefore begs Pardon if. 
 in fome things he may miftake, becaufe it is 
 not wilfully, as that Papirius Petus was the 
 
 great Patron of Cuftard:: That the "Tabs. — P 
 
 - amacon, à Difh much admired by the Emperors — 
 
 dnd and Ale xander Severus was made of - 
 
 Pheafant, Peacock, ‘a wild Sow's Hock, and 
 
 Udder, with à Bread Pudding over it, and 
 
 that che Name and Reafon of fo odd a Dith 
 
 are to be fought ior amongft the Phyfi tians. 
 | The | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dx Lifter, and Mia. 343 
 
 ft The Work i 1s divided i into. he Bogle of 
 which the firft treats of Soups and Pickles, aud 
 
 | perm other. things fhews that. Sancn: Pans 
 were tinn d. before the time. of Pliny, "That 
 
 -. Gordian ufed a Glafs of Bitter in a Morning. 
 That the Ancients fcalded their Wine; and 
 that-burnt Claret, as now practis'd with, Spice - 
 and Sugar, is pernicious, That the Adultera- 
 tion. of Wine was as antient as Cato. That 
 Brawn was: a, Roman Dih.,. which. Apicius 
 commends as Wonderful , ts Sauce then was 
 Muftard and Honey, before the frequent ufe 
 of Sugar. Nor were fowc'd Hogs Feet, Cheeks 
 and. Ears üolnown to thofe Ages. "Tis very 
 have. "a great a iDelidie ibi at Chriffmas. It 
 were worth a Differtation between two Learn- 
 ed Períons, fo it were manag'd with Temper 
 and Candorir. to know: whether the Britains 
 taught it to WU Romans, or whether Cefar 
 introduc d. it into Britaiz, and "tis firange he 
 fhould take no notice if: it; whereas he has 
 
 . recorded, that they did not eat Hare s Fleth, 
 - that the Antients us'd to Marinate their Filh 
 RT frying them in Oyl, and the Moment they 
 4 were 
 
I 
 
 X44 ODETTERS T. "NU 
 
 were (ike out pouting boiling visi up X on 
 them. “The Learned Annotator obíerves; that! 
 
 the bef way of keeping t the Liquor in Oyfers - | 
 
 iby laying the deep Shell ‘downwards, ‘afid’ - 
 that by this means Apieius- convey: d OyRer? - 
 to Tiberis: when in Paribia noble Tnven: - 
 tion fince made ufe of at Colcbeffep with: mióft — 
 admirable Succefs.: What Eftates might Brawn 
 
 or Locker have got inthofe Days: when 4 | 
 
 picius only for boiling of Sprouts aftét a new 
 Fafhion, defervedly came into the good ¢ M. 
 ces of Drufus who: then commanded the R 
 
 Han Armies. ^L fio. ones o | 
 
 “The firft Book diving! trestediof. Sauces of 
 faring Pickles for Relith, which’ are us'd in 
 moft of the fucceeding Récéi ts. "The (uud 
 hàs a glorious Subject of Sau ages, both witli | 
 Skins and without; which contains Matters nó 
 lefs remarkable thas, the former. ‘The Antients 
 that were delicate in their eating prepar 'd theiz 
 own Muthrooms with an Amber or at leafta 
 Silver Knife; where the Annotator thews ele: 
 gantly againft Hardoizus,thatthe whole Knife; 
 and not only the Handle, was of Amber o? 
 "MES left the Ruftinefs of an ordinary Knife 
 
 might 
 
Ds Lifter, d onbers. 145 
 che prove We ious This is a MUR WM 
 
 I hope we may in time arrive to ; for the Bri- 
 tains , tho’ not very forward 1 in Inventions, 
 yet are out-done by no Nations i in Imitation 
 or. Improvements. 
 
 -. The third Book is of fuch Edibles a as are pros 
 duc’d in Gardens. The Romans usd Nitre to 
 make their Herbs look green ; the Annotator 
 fhews our Salt-Peter at prefent to differ from the 
 antient Nitre. Apicins hada way of mincing 
 them firft with Oil and Salt, and fo boiling 
 “em, which Pliny commends. But the prefent 
 Receipt i is to let the Water boil well, throw 
 in Salt, and a bit of Butter, and fo not only 
 Sprouts but Spinage will be green. "There is 
 a moft extraordinary Obfervation of the Edi- 
 tors, to which I cannot but agree, That it 
 isa vulgar Error that Walnut Trees, like Rif: 
 
 fian Wives, thrive the better for being beaten, 
 and that long Poles and Stones are usd by 
 : Boys and others to get the Fruit, down, the 
 
 Walnut-Tree being fo very high they cou'd 
 not otherwife reach it, rather out of Kindnefs 
 co themfelves, than any Regard to the Tree 
 that bears it, As for Afparagus there is an 
 
 L excellent 
 
146 LETTERS, 40 P 
 excellent Remark , “i That} according to Pliny 
 . they were the great Care of the antient Gard 
 ‘ners, and that at Ravenna three. weigh’d L2 
 | Pound ; but that in Ezgland it was thought EC 
 Rarity when 100 of them weighd thirty.’ — 
 That Cucumbers are apt to rifé in the Stomach, 
  unlefs par'd or boil’d with Oyl, Vinegar and 4 
 Honey. That the Egyptians woud drink hard 
 without any. Difturbance , becaufe it was a — 
 Rule for them to have aes ys boil'd Cabbage . 
 for their firft Difh at Supper. "That the beft 
 way to roft Onions is in Colewort Leaves, Jor | 
 fear of burning 'em. ‘That Beets are good for 
 Smiths, beeaufe they working at the Fire are. 
 generally coftive. That Petronius has recorded 
 a little old Woman who fold the Agrefte Olus 
 of the Antients, which Honour I take to be 
 as much due to thofe who in our Days cry 
 Nettle-tops, Elder- ag sang Cliver, in i Wa 
 time very wholefome. | 
 “The fourth Book: contains di ud ted Are > 
 of Cookery. As Matbeus Syloaticus composd _ 
 the Pandects of Phyfick, and Fuftinian thofe of | 
 Law, fo Apicius has Acne the Pandeéts of hisArt 
 in this Book which bears that Infcription. The — 
 fuf 
 
 WG 
 
Dm Did; did fioi. | 14^? 
 ii Chaptér contains: the didwioble- Receipt 
 "^ of a Salacacaby of Apicius. Bruife ina Mortar | 
 P Parfley Seed, dry'd Peneryal, dry'd Mint, Gin. 
 ger, green Coriander, Raifons fton’ d, Honey; 
 Vinegar, Oyl and Wine, put:‘em into a Cz: 
 . €abnlum, three Crafts of Pycentine Bread, the 
 — Fileth of; a Pullet, Goat Stones, Vcftine Cheefe, | 
 Pine Kernels, Cucumbers: dry d.Onions minc'd 
 . fmall; pour a Soup over it, garnifh i it with 
 ^ Snow, :and fend it up:in the Qapabdlumis This 
 Gacabilum being an unufual Veflel, my. Friend 
 . went to his Dictionary,” where finding an odd 
 Interpretation of it, he was eafily perfuaded 
 from the Whimficalnefs of the Compofition, 
 ‘and the Faritafticalncfs of Snow for its Garni- 
 ture, that the propereft Veflel for a Phyfitian 
 to prefcribe to fend to Table upon that occa- 
 . -fion might be a Bed Pan. There are fome ad- 
 mirable Remarks in the Annotations to the 
 fecond Chapter concerning the Dialogue of 
 Afellins Sabinus, who introduces à Combat be- | 
 tween Muthrooms, Chats or Beceofico s, Oytters, 
 and Redwings, a Work that ought to be pub-. 
 lifhd. For the fame Annotator obfe erves, that 
 this Ifland is not deftitute of Redwings, t tho' 
 | E» coming 
 
EN 
 
 8 LETTERS. to 
 
 coming to us only i in diei hardeft Weather, 
 
 and therefore feldom brought fat to our Ti 
 bles. That the Chats come to us in April and | 
 breed, and about Autumn return to Africh, | 
 That Experience fhews us they may be kept 
 in Cages fed with Beef or Weather Mutton, 
 
 T9 Figs, Grapes and minc d Filberds, being Dain. 
 ties not unworthy the Care of (ach. as wou d 
 - preferve our Briti/b Hofpitality. There is a 
 
 curious Obfervation concerning. the diverfity 
 
 of Roman and Britifb Difhes, the firft delight- 
 
 ing in Hodge-podge, Gallimaufreys, Forcd 
 
 Meats, Jufícls, and Salmagundies ; the latter 
 in. Spear-ribs , Surloins, Chines, and Barons ; 
 and thence our Terms of Árt, both as to Tree. 
 fing and Carving become very different; for 
 
 ahey lying upon a fort of Couch cou'd not have : 
 
 carv d theft Difhes which our Anceftors, when 
 they fet upon Formes usd to do. But fince 
 
 the ufe of Cufhions and Elbow Chairs, and. 
 
 the Editions of good Books and. Authors, it 
 may be hop’d in time we may come up to 
 them. For indeed hitherto we ‘have been 
 fomething co blame, and I believe few of us 
 ‘have feen.a Dith of Capon Stones at Table : 
 
 4 | A pud AN mb. 
 
Dr. Liftce: and as 149 
 
 anh; Stones is eclapidodi: d by the nance 
 _ Annotator that we have) For the Art of ma- 
 king Capons has long been buried in Obli- 
 . vion. Varro the great Roman Antiquary tells 
 us how to do it by burning of their Spurs, 
 _ which occafioning their Sterility, makes them 
 - Capons in effect, tho’ thofe Parts a 
 became more large and tender. 
 
 The fifth Book is of Peafe Porrid ge, under 
 which are included Frumentary, W atergruel, 
 . Milk Porridge, Rice Milk, Flumary, Stir a. 
 | bout , and the like. The "Latin, or rather 
 Greek, Name is Aufprios , but my Friend was 
 pleasd to entitle it Pantagruel, a Name usd | 
 by Rablais an eminent Phyfíitian. There àre.— 
 - fome very remarkable things in it as the Em- 
 peror7uliauus had feldomany thin gbut Spoon. 
 Meat at Supper. That the Herb Fenugreck, 
 with Pickles, Oyl and Wine was a Roman 
 Dainty ; 3 upon which the Annotator obferves, 
 that it is not usd in our Kitchins, for a cer- 
 tain ungrateful Bitterneíf? that it has, and 
 that it is plainly a. Phyfical Dyet that. will 
 give a Stool, and that mix'd with Oats, it's 
 fhe beft Purge for Horfes. An excellent In- 
 
 2. Pet ventidh 
 
£50 DETTERS 
 
 A verition. fai: Fragality) "thàt nothing pen be 
 > loft, for what'the Lord did not on he mig ht 
 fend? to his Stable; " sehe Pw 
 The fixth Book treats af Wild: foul. how. 
 tó drefs Oftridges; the biggeft,  groffeft and. 
 moft difficult of Digeftion of any Bird; Phe- 
 nicoptriceés , Parrots, Qu. 2515 eo oq. 
 
 wee Phe feyenth Book. treats of things. ump. 
 quous and coftly , ànd therefore chiefly con- 
 
 cerning Hog-meat, in Which: the Romans came 
 
 to that Excefs, that che Laws forbad the ‘Ufage Ó 
 
 of Hogs Hailes! Sweetbreads, Cheeks, On 
 
 at their publick Suppers. ' And’ Cato, when — 
 
 Cenfor fought to reftrain the: extravagant Ufe 
 
 of Brawn by feveral of his Orations; fo much 
 
 “Regard was had then to the Art of! Cookery, 3 
 
 that we fee it took place i in the Thoughts of 
 
 the wifeft Men, and bore a part in their moft 
 important Councils, ‘But alas! the: egeneracy - 
 of our prefent Age is fich, that E believe few 
 befides the Annotatot know the Excellency of 
 
 a Virgin Sow, efpecially of the black Kind . 
 bronght from ‘Chinas ; and how to make the | 
 moft of her Liver, Lights, Brains, and Pet. ' 
 titoes, and ta vary I herd into thofe fifty Difhes 
 
 Axis one which 
 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
Dr. Lifter, and hi. 151 | 
 
 e wilhich blind fays were. -ufually inde. of that 
 . "delicious. Creature. Befi des, Galen tells us 
 
 | more of i its Excellencics, That Fellow that eats: 
 — Bacon. for twoor three Days before he 3s to box 
 or wrefile, foall be much fironger than if he 
 a fbow d eat the beft Roft Bef. or Bag Pudding in 
 x be Parifb,: 
 
 The eighth Book treats * fuch Dainties as 
 | Bow. -footed Beafts afford us; as, 1ff, the Wild 
 "Bear, which they usd to boil with all its 
 Briftles on. 2dly, The Deer,  dre(sd with 
 Broth made with Pepper , Wine, Honey, Oyl, 
 and flew’d Dawjons, Orc. NUS The Wild 
 | Sheep, of which there are zzuumerable in the 
 Mountains of York(hire and Weftmorland that - 
 ‘willlet nobody handle em; but if they are caught 
 “they are to be fent up with an elegant Sauce 
 > preferib'd after a Phyfical manner, in form of 
 
 an Elechuary, made of Pepper , Rue, Parfley 
 Seed, Funiper, Time dried , Mint, Bevery al, 
 Hoy; c. with which any Apothecary i in 
 that Country can furnifh you. 4tbly, Beef, 
 ^ with Onion Sauce , and commended by Cel- © 
 45, but not much approvd by Hippocrates, - 
 becauí the Greeks {carce knew how to she 
 L 4 | Oxeit, 
 
sya LETTERS Wy 0 
 
 Oxen, and Powdering Tubs were in very few * 
 
 Families ; for Phyficians have been very Pe. 
 
 . culiar in thieir Diet in all Ages; otherwife Ga- | : 
 len would fcarce have found out. that young — 
 Foxes were in Seafonin Autumn. stbly, The - 
 
 | Sucking Pig, boil'd in Paper. étbly, The Hare, 
 the chief of the Roman Dainties, its Blood E 
 being the fweeteft of any Animal, its Natu. - 
 
 . ralFearcontributing to that Excellency. Tho’ 
 
 bh. the Emperors and Nobility had Parks to fat - 
 
 them 1t  yetin the time of Didius Fulianus, 
 if any one had fent him one, or a Pig, he 
 would make it laft him three Days, whereas | 
 
 Alexander Severus had one every Meal, which © 
 muft have been a great Expence, and’ is very | 
 remarkable. But the moft exquifite Animal 
 was refervd for the laft Chapter, and that 
 
 was the Dormonfe, a harmlefs Creature, whofe - 
 
 Innocence might at leaft have defended it both 
 from Cooks and Phyfitians. But Apicius found, 
 out an odd fort of Fate for thofe poor Crea- 
 
 tures, fome to be boned, and others to be 
 
 oput whole: with odd Ingredients, into Hogs i 
 
 Guts , one fo boil'd for Saufages. In an-. 
 
 tient ines People made it their Bufinefs to 
 
 fatten 
 
 
 
 
"n Dr. Lifter, aud otbers. 153 
 
 fatten them: Ariftotle rightly obferves that 
 ‘Sleep fatten'd them, and Martial from thence 
 . too poetically tells us that Sleep was their on- 
 ly Nourifhment: But the Annotator has clear’d 
 that Point; he, good Man, has tenderly ob- | 
 ferv'd one of ’em for many Years, and finds - 
 that it does not fleep all the Winter, as falfly 
 reported, but wakes at Meals} and after its 
 Repaft then rolls it felf up in a Ball to Sleep. 
 This Dormoufe, according to the Author, did 
 
 not drink in three Years time, but whether. 
 
 other Dormife do fo I cannot tell, becaufe | 
 Bambonfelbergius his Treatife of Fatning Dor-. 
 mife is loft. ‘Tho’ very coftly they became a 
 common Difh at great Entertainments; Petro. 
 nins delivers us an odd Receipt for drefling — 
 ‘em, and ferving 'em up with Poppies and 
 Honey, which muft be a very foporiferous 
 
 Dainty, and as good as Owl Pye to fuch as 
 
 ' want a Nap after Dinner. The Fondnefs of 
 the Romanus came to be fo exceflive towards 
 ‘em, that, as Pliny fays, the Cenforian Laws 
 and Marcus Scaurus ia bis Confulfbip got 
 them probibited from Publick Entertainments. 
 But Nero, Commodus, and Heliogabalus would 
 "3 not 
 
ask “DE TTE RS 3X 
 
 not deny the Liberty, ‘and deli budpech 
 of their Subjects in fo reafonable an Enjoy. | 
 ment, and therefore we find them long after - 
 | brought to Table in the Times of Amuianus. 
 — Marcellinus, who tells us likewife,: that Scales 
 avere brought to Table in thofe Ages ‘to weigh k 
 curious Fifbes, Birds and Dormife, to fee whe. 
 ther they were at the Standard of Excellence - 
 . and Perfection, ‘and fometimes, T fuppofe, to 
 vie with othe Pretenders’ to- Magnificence. a 
 The Annotator takes hold of this occafion to — 
 thew of bow great Ufe Scales would be at the 
 Tables of our Nobility , efpecially. upon the 
 bringing up of a Difh of Wild-fowl: For if 
 twelve Larks (fays he) fhould: weigh below 
 imelve Ounces they would be wery lean, and 
 fearce tolerable; if tvelve and down Weight they 
 vould be wery ‘well but if thirteen they would. 
 be fat to Pevfettion. We fee upon how nice - 
 and exact a Balance the Happinefs of ies 
 depends ! | 
 [coni pare Forsan filing; not to fay 
 exi of fach Exa&nefs and fuch Dainties, and 
 told my Friend that thofe Scales would be of | 
 Sree ey Ufe at Dae and that if — 
 the 
 
 
 
“De Lifter, aid others, 1 5 
 
 the Annotator had not i prefcrib: d his Drain 
 
 T fhould upon the firft occafion be glad to vifit t 
 it, if I knew its vilicing Days and Hours, io 
 as not to difturb it... 
 
 My Friend faid there rethain'd mee two 
 bod: more, one of Sea, and the other of 
 River Fifh, in the icol of which he would ' 
 not be long, feeing his Memory began to fail 
 him almoft as much as my Patience. 
 
 | Tis. true in a long W. ork fo oft Slumbers creep, 
 de gently fink tbe. Ariift into Sleep ; | 
 {pe 
 
 ecially when. treating of Dormice. 
 
 - The ninth Book is concerning Sea Fifh, where, 
 iion other Learned Annotations, isrecor- — — 
 ded! that famous Voyage of Apicius, who ha- 
 ving fpent many Millions, and being retird. - 
 into Campania, heard that there were Lobfters 
 of a vaft and unufual Bignefs in Africa, and 
 thereupon impatiently got on Shipboard the 
 fame Day, and having fufferd much at Sea, - 
 "came at laft to the Coaft. But the Fame of fo 
 “great a Man's coming had landed before him, 
 
 and all the Fifhermen fail'd out to meet him, 
 and prefented him with their faireft Lobfters, 
 Ware He 
 
456 LETEERS oh d 
 
 He ask’ d it they had no larger, they abuti d, 
 their Sea produc’d nothing more excellent $ 
 than what they brought. This honeft Free- — 
 dom of theirs, with his Difappdintment, fo — 
 difgufted him, that he took pet, and bad the a 
 Mafter return ‘Honié again immediately: And — 
 fo, it Íeems , Africa loft the Breed of one 1 
 Monfter ludo than it had before. There are — 
 many Receipts in the Book to drefs Cramp- d 
 filh that numb the Hands of thofe that touch — 
 ‘em; the Cuttle-fith, whofe Blood islike Ink; — | 
 . the Pourcontrel Or Many- -feet; the Sea (Irchiln | 
 or Hedge-hog ; with feveral others whofe . 
 Sauces are agreeable to their Natures. But to | 
 the Comfort of us Moderns, the Antients often — 
 eat their Oyfters alive, and fpread hard Eggs 
 sminc’d over their Sprats, as we do now over our 
 .— Salt-fifh. There is one thing very curious con- 
 cerning Herrings: lt feems the Antients were - 
 very fantaftical in making one thing país for 
 another; fo at Petronins’s Supper the Cook 
 fent up i fat Goofe, Fifh, and Wild-fowl of 
 all forts to appearance, but ftill all were made 
 out of tlie feveral Parts of one fingle Porker. © 
 The great "Niconiedes, un of Jytbigia, had 
 avery 
 
- P Lifter: PE sets: d 487 
 
 a very delightful Decfpition of this nature put 
 upon him by his Cook; the King was extreme-- 
 ly affe&ed with frefh Herrings (as indeed who 
 is not!) but being far up in Afia from the Sea 
 . Coaft, his whole Wealth could not have pur- 
 flasd one, but hisCook contriv'd fome fort o£ 
 . Meat, which put into aFrame fo refembled aHer- 
 . ring that it was extremelyfatisfaCtory both to his 
 Princes Eyes and Gufto. My Friend told me 
 that to the Honour of the City of London he 
 . had feena thing of this nature there, that 15, a 
 Herring, orrather a Salmogundy, with the Head 
 and Tail fo neatly laid that it furpriz’d him. 
 . He fays many of the Species may be found at 
 the Sugar Loaf in Bell Yard, as giving an ex- 
 cellent Relifh to Bustin Ale, and not cofting 
 above Sixpence; an inconfiderable Price for 
 An Imperial a: Dainty. 
 
 Ehe tenth Book, as my Friend tells me; is 
 concerning Fifb Sacer; which confift of va- 
 riety of Ingredients, amongft which is general-. 
 lya kind of Frumenty. But it is not to be for. 
 got by any Perfon who would boil Fifh exa&ly, 
 that they threw them alive into the Water, 
 which at prefent is laid to be a Dutch Receipt, 
 
 but 
 
159. k LE IXERSs NS 
 
 but Was derived Ren the Ries: t feems Sen 2] 
 neca the Philofopher (a Man from whofe mos 
 
 rofe Temper little good in the Art: of Cookery 
 
 'could be expected ) in his third Book of Na- — 
 ‘tural Queftions, correéting the Luxury of the — 
 
 "Times ,fays, theRomans were come to that Dain- 
 
 tine{s,that they would not cat a Fifh unlefsupon — 
 the fame Day it was taken, that itmight taft 
 of the 8ea, as they expreft i it ;^ and therefore - 
 
 . had ‘em broüght by Perfons who rode Poft, 
 
 and made a great Out-cry, whereupon all 0. 
 ther People were oblig'd to give them the 
 Road. It was an ufual Expreffion for a Roman | 
 to fay, In other matters Y may confide: in you, 
 
 but in a thing of this Weight it 4 not confi flent 
 with my Gravity and Prudence, Iwill truff no- 
 
 
 
 thing but my own Eyes, bring “the Fifb hither, — 
 let me fee hin breath bis laft. And when the — 
 poor Fifh was brought to Table fwimming and ~ 
 pafping, would cry out, Nothing is more bean~ 
 
 ifl than a dying Muller. ! My Friend fays, the 
  Annotator Looks upon thefe as Fefts made by 
 
 the Stoicks, azd {poken abfurdly and beyond Na-. : 
 ture; tho’ nat Annotator at the fame time tells. 
 
 Ws NP it was a Law at Athens that the Fifher- — 
 '" men. 
 
 e 5 K 
 
Dr. Lifter, and others. 139. 
 
 men (hould not ivafh their Fith, but bille them. 
 as they came out of the Sea. Happy were the 
 ài Athenians’ in goodLaws,and the Romans in great 
 Examples; but I believe our Britains need 
 with their Frieüds no longer Life than till they 
 fee London ferv' d with live Herring and gafping 
 
 Maccarel. "Tis true we are not quite fo bar- 
 
 barous but that we throw our Crabs alive into . 
 fcalding Water, and tye our Lobfiers to the 
 . Spit to hear chem {queek when they are rofted ; 
 our Eels ufe the fame periftaltick Motion upon 
 the Gridiron, when their Skin is off, and their 
 Guts are out as they did before: ; ahd our 
 . Gudgeons taking opportunity of jumping after 
 they are flower d, eive occafion to the admira- 
 ble Remark of lini Perfons Folly, when to 
 avoid the Danger of the Frying-pan they leap - 
 into the Fire. My Friend faid that the mention 
 . of Eels put him in mind of the concluding Re-  . 
 mark of the Annotator, That they who amongft | 
 the Sybarites would fh for Eels, or fell chem, 
 fhould be free from all Taxes. Lwas glad to Mar 
 of the word Conclude, and told hin nothing 
 could be more acceptable to me than the men- 
 tion of the Sybarites; of whom I fhortly inten- 
 
 ded 
 
m jii ko CY TRIGO 
 Vd eu 
 1 
 
 V rage. LE TTE RS 9 
 
 deda Hiftory : fhewing how: they NEN s 
 . bani(h'd Cocks for waking them ina Morning, - 
 
 - and Smiths for beingufeful; howonecry'dout 
 becaufe one of the Rofe Leaves he lay on was - 
 rumpled ; how they taught their Horfes to — 
 
 dance and fo their Enemies coming againft em 
 
 |. with Content ated Harpfichords, fet themfoup- — 
 
 on their round O's and Minuets, that the Form — 
 of theirBattel was broken, and three hundred. 
 thoufand of them flain, as Goldman, Littleton, — 
 _ and feveral other good Authors affirm. I told | 
 my FriendI had much overftaid my Hour, but 
 -ifat any time he would find Dich Humelbergins, 
 Cafpar Barthins, and another Friend, with him. 
 
 felf, I would invite him to Dinner of afew, but 
 
 Nate Difhes to cover the Table at once, whieh 
 
 except they would think of any thing better, 
 
 ~ fhould be a Salacacaby, a Dith of Fenugreek, 4 
 a wild Sheeps Head, and Appurtenance, with 
 a fuitable Ele&uary , a Ragouft of Capons 
 
 Stones, and fome Dormoufe Saufages. — 
 Ifjas Friends do with oné another ataVenifon 
 
 Pafty, you fhou’d fend for. a Plate, you know 
 
 youinay command it, for what ismine isyours, _ 
 
 as being catirely your, Oe. 
 
 FINIS 
 
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