a & iy joa : ha: a le AL ee hwy * ‘" ans Sad ) . ‘i i i ‘ fe 3 F i \ 4 far - PS 7 AoA 7 ‘ * v 7 pis! ‘ P : { if : , r 14 e B ‘ we 1 a wo) be Susie BS > f dA fb fed WA LOM a° +2 oF CEd SZ, ZOlMALOrNA Ea ee 0 E7, i f, Py STS; L Fern LVL hed C77 LUublis oh THE FRENCH COOK. BBY. i LOUIS EUSTACHE UDE, « : eu | CI-DEVANT COOK TO LOUIS XVI. AND THE EARL OF SEFTON, ¥ AND LATE STEWARD TO THE UNITED SERVICE CLUB. - FIFTH EDITION. ) LONDON: JOHN EBERS, 27, OLD BOND-STREET. 1318. "he : \ , ai A - ~ i ’ ae > . Bs ‘ Ks : 4 ‘ : ae ; 3 ‘ , 5 , 7 + 1 r i uh ‘ Yo A ? ' f eins eit e < * .- - ¢ * Oo THE’ eS ~ > > ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, | Sie RES BY THEIR : : _ VERY DEVOTED, - ‘. ( . UMBLE SERVANT) PREFACE. _ Urewarns of thirty years’ practice and assidu- ous study of my profession, have undoubtedly given me a thorough knowledge of it; and it must be conceded, that to conquer all the difficulties attached to it, is not a trifling task. The patron- age and encouragement I received in this country, at the hands of one of the best masters man ever served, co-operating with my experience, enabled. me to- succeed in all my undertakings; and my gratitude can cease only with my existence. Many professional men have. written on this subject ; but very few of them have possessed at once the theory and practice of the art. I must . own, that my severity towards my apprentices, and my unremitting care in keeping the inferiors who attended me, in a state of constant assiduity in what concerned the cleanliness of the kitchen as well as of the larder, has been of the utmost advantage te myself as well as to them: I have the satisfactory reward of seeing all my pupils held in the highest estimation by persons of the greatest distinction. I shall in this edition, as I did in the hoes say that Cookery is an art appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addi- eo eee vi | PREFACE, tion to a most diligent and studious application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest so- briety and punctuality : without the latter, the very best Cook is unavoidably deficient in the delicacies of his profession: there are cooks, and cooks, as there are painters, and painters: the difficulty lies in finding the perfect one; and I dare assert, that . ‘the nobleman who has in his service a thorough good one, ought to be as proud of the acquisition, as of possessing.in his gallery a genuine production of the pencil of Rubens, Raphael, or Titian. In England the few assistants allowed to a head cook, and the number of dishes he has to prepare, often deprive him of an opportunity of displaying his abilities ; and after ten years of the utmost exer- tion to bring his art to perfection, he has the mortification of ranking no higher than an humble domestic. As several noblemen and ladies of distinction have remarked to me, that my book contained too many French terms, I have endeavoured in this edi- tion to meet their goodness and liberality towards ; me, by giving translations of such names as were translatable. But I must still observe, as I did in the preceding editions, that Cookery, like fortifi- cation, music, dancing, and many other arts, being _ of foreign origin, its nomenclature is, like theirs, in the language of the people who first cultivated it; and hence the impossibility of transferring by an equivalent, many terms into English, so as . | PREFACE. wit ¢ . to convey any intelligible meaning. In this case they have been unavoidably retained, but care has been taken to give at the bottom of the respective pages where the expressions occur, such elucida- tions as may be fully explanatory of their shiek to the practitioner. As I shall explain the manner of dressing entrées, it is proper for me to observe here, that the word entrée has no equivalent in English. It is the name of any dish of meat, fowl, game, or fish, dressed and cooked for the first course ; all vegetable dishes, jellies, pastries, salad, prawns, lobsters, and in general every thing that appears in the second course, except the roast, are termed entremets. Fad, 5} is time for me to give the translation of such words as are of most immediate occurrence. French. English. St ae ae Jd GEN CL Sous . eg eT ee es st ypee ee Made dishes. 4st c course. : Entremets, .........++++e0 Made dishes, 2ud course. _ : { 2th Jelées, Seeeeenee oe @ -@ @eeoaee Jellies. y SR ERS OG Mark, or put, &c. ial spend Ri a cee Covered with, &c. | 7 AS Ae 2 6 aa ee IN Fry lightly on the stove, © ip MPCUITOLS WEA esis «os aT ae To reduce, or boil down. "4 ES EE a ae ae i sag - Remove. Most of the dishes retain their original name. In my former edition I enumerated the articles in season; but I find it useless in the present — one, because, when in London, the markets and shop-keepers are always provided according to the. ot | ; vce 7 oC ae PREFACE. season ; the price of the various articles is always the thermometer to be consulted: when in the country, the Cook must use in preference the pro- duce of the farm and gardens. The futile search after novelty in Cookery, is the running after the philoso- pher’s stone. Every thing is equally good when done in perfection. The sweet dishes that conclude this work, have no translation, any more than plumb- pudding has in Paris ; it bears the same name there which it does in London; so Suédoise, Charlotte of apples, or Charlotte of apricot, rice, and apples, Chartreuse of fruits, apple frétures glazed, sou- fflées, miroton of apples, croquettes of rice farcie d abricots, croqueites of potatoe, panequet, are at ence French and English: however, no difficulty can result. froma dish bearing a foreign name, as the way of making it is explained in English, and the learner will be. easily familiarized with their names. ‘The various articles will be treated of in their respective classes, of which there are seven, viz. soups, jish, removes of either fishes and soups ; ee entrées, entremeis, roasts for the second course ; at the first course there are always removes; cad ue then the removes of roasts, called soujflées, or bis- cuits a la créme, or fondus, &c. &c. It is necessary toremember all these observations, as they teach the. learner to serve with order; by taking a dish from different classes, you may compose your din- “ner without ‘any assistance but this book. Sup- pose you have eight persons at dinner, you cannot >, ; 4 ; a. — rl phe Ere ate lal ‘erence Ne Le Fotage Frintannier; releve a avee La Powularde , : a la Montmeorenci. Dormant (or) CENTER es ae Ss tationary Le PoiS sor, releve par leJambon de Westphatle, a l'ESsence. Second Cowrse, CL a ii er”, relevées avec Ute rele vé avec wrie # < a : . % oy te eRe SEE a ahi lal . Red up less than fs you must have oro. removes, viz. for the second | course t two. dishes of. roast, next four entremets ; i and if: you think proper, two. removes of the roast. | 4 Alam glazed with Espagnole. | Pee : Four Entrées. an eee i U “ iis ndsii os + sg? har ur entrées, a soup, and a fish; Make the bill of fare, by chusing out of each 3 chapter whatever you may want, namely, a soup, _a fish, two removes, four entrées for the first course ; then for the second course, two roasts, four entre- os mets, and two remoyes of the roast. .- ~ By this I mean that. you must take one article out of the chapter that relates to mutton, or lamb, or veal, or fowl, or fish, taking care, how- ever; that no two dishes are to be alike eitherin shape, colour, or taste. For the second course, § you must act on the same principle : the roasts must : likewise not bear any resemblance to each other. ‘In summer time you will select two dishes from among the vegetables, one from among the jellies, | and one out of the chapter of pastry ; as for instance ; Bili of Fare for a Dinner of Four Ene » Soupe pr intanniere, or spring sours Crimp cod and oyster sauce. Two Removes. a Fowl @ la Montmorenci, garnished with a ragout al ' Ale Fricassée of chicken and mushrooms. Lamb chops sauté, with asparagus, pease, &c. Fillets of fat chicken, sauté au supreme. . vo Petits patés of fillet of fowl @ la béchamelle. A % 7 ara NS % 43 re PN oat = a Ee 9 Sat ee i en ae | ‘ opti ad SY, 7 Co a ee ee. ae a ‘PREFACE. i me - girs a ay at Second Course. Fowls roasted, garnished with water cresses. ‘Six quails: a Four Entremets. Asparagus with plain butter. — Orange jellies in mosaigues. Cauliflower with velouté sauce. Petit gateaux 4 la Manon. Two Removes of the Roast. Soufflée, with lemon. - Ramequin a la Sefton. make a bill of fare of four, six, eight, twelve, or sixteen entrées, and the other courses in proportion. I have inserted a bill of fare for a dinner of twenty entrées that I served at the Right Hon. the Earl of Derby’s at Knowsley-Hall, when the late Duke of Gloucester was in that part of Emgland. The se- cond course was in the same proportion, as it re- quires the same number of dishes for the second, that ‘you have served in the first. Observe that whenever q there are more than four entrées, symmetry must always be attended to: the two flanks fora dinner , of six entrées must be parallel, that is to say, if you place petits patés on one side, you must have cro- quettes on the other; if you have a vol au venton “one side, you must ‘lias a paté chaud opposite, - gives additional merit to a dinner. From the above statement it will be easy to and so on; a judicious arrangement of dishes ome erate re Cons = ‘ Joi ‘0 Fret. aa Rell ala Bonne Femme, relevée avec le Turbot 4, relevé avee Tle Dinden a la Périqueuxr. de perdreaur a \ Soubise. ay OP Vol au vent a ‘Es calopes de Cabilleau Es calopes Cotelettes de filets de filets de poulets gras, de lapreaur, j ala cont. é G 7 > a) il SS Sp Hpigramme fs > Soupe a la Beauveau, relevée avec tle Dorey, relevé avee le pore. naira +s Jones fculp, oot —ssS SC “4 i ee 2 mae Pe Oe —_ ~~ Per? ae 4 —s , = - Ad ae wr Jelée devin de Madere, DORMANT Cardons d’ ispagne, la Salade de Fowls roastec Six quails, Asparagus wi Orange jellie: Cauliflower y Petit gateau: Soufflée, with Ramequin a From tl make a bi sixteen eni I have ins: entrées ths Derby’s at Glouceste: cond cours quires the; rt there are 1 always be of six enir place petei . queties on "one side, “and soo} gives addi “you have st a=!) mel PREFACE. ‘The second course requires also a different ar- Ly rangement when you have more than four entrées. At the two flanks you must have two dishes of ve- getables, if approved of; and at the four corners, a jelly, a pastry, a lobster salad, and a cream jelly, . &c.; if you have a different instruction you may put two sweets in the flanks, two vegetables at each opposite corner, and an Italian salad, and a dish _ of prawns at the two other corners. Bull of Fare of Six Entrées. Dinner for Twelve or Fourteen Persons, Two Potages. Good woman’s soup, dite flamande, white and thick. Soup @ la hauveau, brown and clear. Two Fishes. Turbot, with lobster sauce. Slices of crimped salmon boiled, same sauce. Two Removes. Turkey @ la perigueux, purée of chesnut. - Leg of mutton roasted. Six Entrées. - Cutlets of mutton braized, with soubise sauce. Salmi of young partridges, @ l’ Espagnole. Vol au vent of salt fish, @ la maitre d’hétel. ' Casserole of rice, with a purée of game. Sauté of fillets of fowl @ da Lucullus, with truffles. Fillets of young rabbits @ da orlies, white sharp sauce, ween ae ro S23. eee Ee eS. SE BS Tp at CO ee ee eH: SD ay eee $2) 8 aes : = ts om z BEA 8 2 5 = Se 2G “ 2 ; o- < < xll 3 PREFACE. - Second Course. Two Roasts. Three partridges roasted. Three woodcocks, . Sia Entremets. Spinach with consommé, garnished with fried bread. Whole truffles with champuign. Lobster salad @ l’Italienne. Jelly of marasquino, Buisson of gateau a la Polonoise. Charlotte of apples with apricot. Two Removes of ihe Roast. Biscuit a la cream. Fondus. oe * Dinner for Sixteen or Twenty Persons. Two Potages. Soup a la Reine. Brunoise, clear. Two Fishes. Turbot, garnished with fried smelts, lobster sauce. Slices of salmon, with Genévoise sauce. Four Removes. Fowls @ la Condé, ragout a U Allemande. Westphalia ham glazed, and Espagnole under it. Saddle of mutton roasted. f Haunch of venison roasted. Eight Entrées. Fillets of young partridges 2 la Lucullus, with: truffles. Small timballe with a salpicon. Croquettes of fowls au velouté. Bill of ‘Fare tor Dewees gJantiary. ST lm Potage @ la Reine, relevé = d'une longe de Veauw, en Surprise. Turboet OD 6 : 6 gar 6) ‘© , 2 le Q a eperlans, \ i 6) @ : a releve ©) g de deur Gg ©) Poulardes a la I a COGOOOGOGOBGOOCEOVSE = am Potage ala Brunecis, relevé dune Selle de Mouton. Plakpeitay a relevée d'un Jambon de. Westphalie a de tilets de Volailles,au. Velouté. ‘ Tones $= relevées Poulets gras, un pique | b. Bee as: © Fs ‘ dun Souttlé ata 4 MILIEW. ; | } =) | Sarcelles, | es relevées . par les Biscuits . ala Créme. : : | "a Ki Three pal Three wo Spinach v Whole tr Lobster s Jelly of n Buisson | Charlotte Biscuit a Fondus. Soup 2 k Brunoise Turbot, Slices of Fowls a / Westpha Saddle 0: Haunch | _ Fillets of — Small tix Croquett PREFACE. eee : ane fi’ Tot of fowl a a Sia taere i - Three small partridges. @ la Barbarie, with trnfites. Two small chickens poele, Pri tarragon sauce. Cutlets of po k a la mir epoix, brown sharp sauce, — | Cutlets of mutton a V ftalienne, ek ‘ , * ee, r, Second Course. ware Four Roasts. i Five snipes, A hare roasted. Two wild ducks. A capon, garnished with cresses. | Fight Entremets. Salsifis 2 la sauce blanche. Macaroni @ 7 Italienne. ee eggs, with gravy a veal clarified. Brocoli au velouté. —. Jelly de noyau rouge. Italian cheese a l’orange. Gateaux 4 la Madeleine. Little bouchées, garnished with marmalade. Four Removes of the Roasts. Souffiée a la fleur d’vrange. Ramequin. Biscuit a la cream. - Petits choux a la cream. ore ieee Dinner for Twenty or Twenty-four Persons, Four Potages. Soup of rabbits @ la Reine. Soup @ la Carmilite, Soup Julienne. Soup @ la Clermont. my DR ee Foi Fishes, Turbot and lobster sauce. Pike baked, Dutch sauce, Three ‘olives of cpa got oyster sauce, | Matelotte of tap. ae Four Removes. Rump of beef glazed @ la Sla- mande. Leg of pork garnished, Boiled turkey, celery sauce. Saddle of mutton roasted. ~ Twelve Entrées, Small casserolettes of rice, mince of fowl. Scollops of fillets of fowls, with | truffles. Turban of fillets of rabbits. Petits patés a la nelle. Cutlets of fillets of partridges. eee traee of polars = beef. | | Small cases of veetiiead a a la Vénitienne. Grenade of aisles fillets oF fowls a Vessence. Attelets of nse thread, Ita- lienne. Petits pités of oysters a Fa Sefton. Partridges & cabbages dreued: SS akce . ; Second Course. wo fowls wih cresses, . ive woodcocks. ae | pina la cream. ~ Asparag with butter. Cream au ‘caffé, white. ‘Sultane with a vol au vent. eat Small ce garnies. 7 - Meringues ¢ la Chantilly. be | | Two dishes of fondus. Po aaa One of talmouse, or cheesecake. z One of choux en biseutt. . Four Roasts. Two ducklings. Two young rabbits. Twelve Entremets. Cauliflower au velouté. —- Salsifis a2 VEspagnole, Jelly of Madeira. Fromage Bavarois au chocolat. Gateau praliné. Jelly af marasquino rose. Four Removes. « ‘ - ? é Le - x Ura pti MN US) ce oes ae ota Tok Ripe vi) Sil or ae at aa & Bill of Fore for Sé yary & February. Potage ala Cressi: . relevé par un Turbot, relevé parune Culotte de Beut a la Flamande. ol > 7 h/ \VWe) a [ Terrine de \\€ queue de Bauth yg en Harricet, relevée par vt un Brochet 4 DORMANT DV MILUEC. au four; \releve par les Merlans trits, yj, Televes par With Room enough tor UVtensus relevd par un filet & aVase at each corner. 4) Ze Dindern en Veai,a \iealicnng Potage a t'Allemande; ~“} AW\releve par les tranches de Cabilicau; relevé parle Cuijeeau de Pore, auc epinards, . Second Course. La Poularde, relevé par le Flan Picard. Perdreamr DORMANT au MILE, |R relevées par des [Pour Vases £e as before / Fondues. en Letits Pots, : Buifson de jenbvoise e Les Canetonrs, relevées par ~“ les Talmouses. I, feulp f Pp. FT a A A NE ENT NTT Petes ie "PREFACE, hes Uh ee aixy I have here given. only a specimen of the form 1 general arrangement of a bill of fare; the “pelyction, < of the articles rests with the Cook, or the persons who order the dinner, You may serve a good dinner without adhering to the identical dishes which I have selected, or rather mentioned as it were at-random. I think it would be useless to go beyond sixteen entrées; for a multiplicity of dishes are easily made out. I shall only observe, that with twenty entrées, the counter-flanks. must exhibit copious entrées; and. that. for the second course there must be introduced what we call. F moyens dentremets, or ornamented dishes, or i Gath GR ene brioches or biscuits or babas, either in the counter- flanks, or at the top and bottom of the table. | Bae iv entrées, you must put large pieces entrées, those hike pieces are indiepdeedl it is then awe for any Cook to dre send up o table hathing Fait. common ies, to, either of the courses. I have not mentioned ti: second course (sr the dinner of twenty enérées; as it is known that there _ are to be the same number of dishes as in the first. ~, course; there must be-also the same number of _ the ep and bottom, and the two flanks ; and fo MA j xVic' | PREFAOGE, 8. ae in the room of removes, or of large conve 2 two ai the top and bottom, two at the flanks, and ou at the counter-flanks. If you have assistants. ue enough to make the ornamented pieces, then re-_ move the four roasts of the counter-flanks with - soufflées, biscuit, fondus, &c.; and put four large pieces at the top and bottom, and on the two flanks, | | Thave added two cold pies, which are fesbck served at a large dinner. [like them to be sent to table with the first course; and to remain there oa between the two courses. By this means the epi- eure and dainty eater will always have something _ improve the look of the table. ee. B—tThe pies may be either of game or before them. They are not at all in the wie er | Pad 4 Plate 8. Silly & August. relevé par \ LAllovan dla Godard 5 | hi, e ibaes a {, Laté Froid ‘\ saan bie ; de Faisants, SZ N& | ; OY Trances des | cag 5 abilleaurelevé ‘Vie : pele f a ‘ I heguincff . ) | : " \Leupiettes | de Lilais | | de Beak | en gratns z | teehee epoulardsaut { eencvmbnsngar, ad ede filets JONES DORMANT Potage “ : lala Faliaoes ie 1} releve dinhouiit Boot dynear} Mi tid EU, ee 7b Oe lag a ( ~~ T A B ee pique sur les filets: brvrles MY Ferner cuiZs es) y . * ee = eS sana. . Semieaiennanas “=a — I es, | Marabou aar levies | - ie By Boredinns 1 Bir la Reine fan velout Ay Fotage anu ris, : relevé 3 pi chau : dla \ par une longe de Veau . 4 ad ta ereérme, a 3 n x6 f * Ri n OO X me ‘ if) = Bt SS a ee ee » ertremeties &:on the Hlanks &:thePolsons on the counter /lants. snislte’ base ® we vi en to q move the © amis 6 ieces at Es % some other arts. - Music, dancing, fencing, painting, and a, of age, whereas in the first line of cooking, pre-emine: though there are many who call themselves so. This. in which they are held; if they were all provided withthe % ae Ss eae DVICE TO COOKS. “4° eal sid a rust that I shall not be accused of vanity, for seeking to enforce good precepts, as well as for giving good examples. Cooking is an art which requires a great deal of time, intelligence, and activity, to be acquired in its perfection. Every man is not born with the qualifications i necessary to constitute a good Cook. I shall demonstrate the difficulty of the art, by offering a few observations on mechanics in general, possess professors under twenty y 1 - = ay We see me at iti: " C experience can elevate aman to the rank of Chief £ Prof I must acknowledge, that there are very few good Co portion of talent among them is the cause of the little respec necessary qualities, they would certainly be. considered ag: artists. Bee ; a , a fis What science demands more study than cookety ? You have not only, as in other arts, to. satisfy the geueral eve Pp a) Bik "TOC a Mey fs . errs i+ xviii ADVICE TO COOKS. but also the individual taste of the persons who employ you; you have to attend to economy, which every one enemy to suit the taste of different persons at the same tables to surmount the difficulty of procuring things hil are neces- sary to your work; to undergo the want of unanimity among the servants of the house; and the mortification of seeing unlimited confidence sometimes reposed in persons who are unqualified to give orders in the kitchen, without assuming a consequence, and giving themselves airs which are almost : always out of reason, and which frequently TIO UVES, the Cook. In fact, a thousand particulars, too tedious to detail, _ render this employment very laborious, and little honoured. Nevertheless, if you are extremely clean, if you are very. | sober, and have, above all, a great deal of activity, you will _ succeed one day or other, in “acquiring that confidence, which these qualities always inspire. You have not the . ea which other artists and mechanics have, of putting off | ior another day what cannot be done in this; the hour iouly commands, and the work must be done at the ppointed time, Be careful then, to have every thing ready your work always by the time it is required, and above all, without noise or confusion. : Hf you possess a thorough knowledge of your profession, or have the entire confidence of your employer, do not be de go inconsiderately proud of gt, as to treat any one with dis- _ dain, a practice too common among persons in place, Do ; not take any other advantage of your superiority, than to a | call ADVICE TO COOKS. X1X “be serviceable to the utmost of your power; although you : ought not to be regarded merely as a servant, yet forget not that you have still a duty to fulfil; ; you are obliged to serve at the precise hour, to anticipate all that can give pleasure to your employer; to have every thing ready which he has ordered, and what he frequently will forget to “otter re and to wateh strictly over those in your department, ven If you confide any thing to persons “under Your eontrou be careful always to have it done under your own eye; that you may be able to answer for the fault, if there is any. It often happens that the company who dine together, sa not the same taste: try as much as possible to furnish them with what they like; and above all, never object to change any dish which is not approved of. Were you even the best Cook in the world, if you are obstinate in pursuing your old routine, without seeking to please those who employ _ you, you will merely exist, without acquiring either eOn- ¢ideration, reputation, or fortune. Great cleanliness is requisite in the utensils you make ( i: use of : entrust to no one but yourself, the examination of | the copper utensils of the kitchen, which are very dangerous. _ Every time you use a stew-pan or other utensil, “see that it has beta well scoured and blemied The scullery-maids : “igs scour the outside of their coppers, and scarcely ever give themselves the trouble to clean the inside, from which aed : «5c ee circumstance it will happen that the taste will be entirely spoiled, and the persons who eat what has been cooked in — , b 2 oe ae 3 Re : XX ADVIiCK TO COOKS. dirty vessels, are often exposed to colics and other maladies, without knowing the cause of them. It is ona good first broth, and good sauce, that you must depend for good Cookery; if you have entrusted this part to persons who are negligent, and if your broth has not been well skimmed, you can make but indifferent. work 3 the broth is never clear, and when you are obliged to clarify it, it loses its goodness and sa- _-vour. I have elsewhere said, that any thing clarified, requires great seasoning, and consequently it is not so healthy. A stock-pot well managed, saves a great deal of trouble, for it would be ridiculous in a small dinner to make several broths. _ When you have put into the stock-pot the articles and ingre- dients as directed in the Chapter on that subject, the same broth will serve you to make the soup, and white or brown oe &c. Economy is most the order of the day, seeing, the - dearness of every thing used in the kitchen. You should be very careful to take off the fat, and skim the soups and” sauces; it is an operation which must be repeated ~ again and again: the smallest drop of fat or grease is insuf- ferable ; ; it characterizes bad cookery, anda Cook without - ‘method. The different classes of cookery, viz. the soup, the — entrées, the fish, the entremeis, the roasts, the jellies, the i decorated entremets, the pastry, &c. all require the greatest 4 attention. The theory of the kitchen appears trifling; but its practice is extensive: many persons talk of it, and yet know nothing of it beyond mutton chops, and beef-steaks, _orbubble and squeak, &c, Many writers have exercised Bae i in perfection, as: neither. hands nor expence are. objects consideration. “The iiapoute. must ae desi ilar -eumstance of a young man coming to this employment ADVICE TO COOKS. — Xi their pen upon the subject, and yet know little about mm * ' for instance, the Almanach des Gourmands, la Gastronomie, a poem on the subject of Cookery, without tieating of it; both excellent works to read after dinner, pu giving no previous advice how to make it properly. _ Cooks in this country have not the opportunity of in- ical their pupils that we have in France, except at Royal Palace, where every thing is, and must be, done stds not the ai dualiiceaega ty of eit ve omit- . % ted The difficulties to be conquered are a national preju- a : dice which exists against French Cookery ; ‘and the ceir- : s aS a from’ school, with his taste settled, and’ remaining a long ss time in a kitchen, before he will attempt to ‘taste: any thing that he has not been accustomed to; if he does not like Cookery himself, he never can bea good Cool . . nbeis ne does not like to taste it; the Cook, on the contrary, wet. he Cookery cannot be done like pharmacy ; the Pharmaeis obliged to weigh every ingredient that he employs, a taste often, as the reduction increases the flavour. It would ee be blind work indeed without tasting ; the very best soups or” entrées in which you have omitted to put salt, are entirely a ; ‘ without flavour: seasoning is in Cookery, what chords are in XX ADVICE TO COOKS, : music ; the best instrument, in the hand of the best pro- fessor, without its being in tune, is insipid. 1 shall reeom- mend particularly toa Cook, to bestow great attention on the sauces; they are the soul of Cookery : all other parts are indispensable, but this is considered the chief part of it. A’ great difficulty in cooking is the name of the dishes; Cooks seldom agree upon this point: some names owe their origin either to the Cook who invented them, or to the first Epi- 7; cure who gives them a reputation. Cookery possesses few _ innovators ; I have myself invented several dishes, but been rather shy in giving them my name, for fear of being ac- cused of too much vanity. I confess there are some ridicu- lous names; for instance, soup au clair de lune, soup a la jambe de bois, la poularde en bas de snie, les pets de nonne, a a and ial other names still more ridiculous, which Gnd most t of the names of French extraction—soup 4 la 3 Reine, a la Condé, & la bonne Femme, &c. entrées ad la ea * Richelten, a a@ la Viileroi, & la Dauphine, 2 la du Barri. Why : “should we not see in this book the names of those true Epi- ian ~eures. who have honoured good Cookery by their ‘approba~- . “tion, and have by their good taste and liberality elevated it ner to a great superiority in this country, over what it is now in | France? I dare affirm, that Cookery in England, when well 1¢, is superior to that of any country in the world. . Béchamelle owes its name to a rich financier who was a a ADVICE TO COOKS; XXiil great Epicure. I am surprized not to find in Cookery the names of those who have given a celebrity to that science, such as Apicius, Lucullus, Octavius, and those others who | patronized it under the reign of Louis the Fourteenth, Vol- taire says in one of his works, * Qu’un cuisinier est un mortel divin: _“ Chloris, Eglé me verse de leur main,” &c. &c. Why should we not be proud of our knowledge i in. Cookery? It is the soul of every pleasure, at all times, and to all ages. How many marriages have been the consequence of | : : a meeting at dinner! how much good fortune has been the result of a good supper! at what moment of our existence are we happier than at table? There hatred and animosity : It is at table. 3 are lulled to sleep, and pleasure alone: reigns. that an amiable lady or gentleman shines where they display the ease and graceful which they perform the honours of the Cook, by his skill and attention, anticipates ‘thelr: ‘i in the happiest selection of the best dishes and decoration here their wants are satisfied, their minds and bodies im gorated, and themselves qualified for the high | es love, music, poetry, dancing, and other pleas he whose talents have produced these happy effects, to rank no higher in the scale of man than a common servant? Yes, . if you adopt and attend to the rules that I have laid down, “Stay or ag the self-love of mankind will consent at last, that Cookery _ : 4 shall rank in the class of the Sciences, and its Professors de- serve the name of Artists, XxiV ADVICE TO COOKS. Tf you follow my precepts you will never have any ill luck: never be afraid of doing too much for your employer; ‘the idle very seldom cudeeeae take great care of the com+ pany you keep; a bad companionship is of the worst conse= quences to a man cook ; it makes him take the habit of go- ing out frequently, and returning home again too late to: attend to his business: these bad principles will be always highly prejudicial to a Cook, and will prevent him from e attaining the perfection required. Ae op phe _ ON COOKERY,... .. » oe ? ; > , ah z . 7 § ef * “AND ITS IMPUTED ILL EFFECTS ON HEALTH. pegs ~~ Many persons, but particularly Medical Practitioners, - have from time immemorial, been the declared enemies of Cooks and Cookery. The determination of the latter to keep mankind under their despotic dominion, has engaged them in a perpetual warfare against whatever might oppose their peculiar interests. But I dare affirm that good Cookery, so far from possessing any deleterious tendency, is, on the contrary, highly conducive to the preservation of health, jnasmuch as it protects the appetite against the disa tageous monotony of plain food. I will not, how ceal, that like every thing else, it must be used with cretion; but on what enjoyment, or even ordinary functio of life, I would ask, is not discretion an indispensable tendant? the mischief then lies only in the abuse. A skilful — and well directed Cookery abounds in chemical preparat ons ae highly salutary to weak stomachs. There exists a salubrity os - of aliment suited to every age. Infancy, youth, maturity, and old age; each has its peculiarly adapted food, and that — not merely applicable to digestive powers in full vigour, but to stomachs feebly organized by nature, or ta those debi- litated by excess. a dis- XXV} ON COOKERY. _- Tam greatly concerned at being obliged to combat a still’ more powerful, though amiable enemy to Cookery. ‘The Ladies of England are unfavourably disposed towards our art; yet I find no difficulty in assigning the cause of it. It is parti- cularly the case with them (and indeed it is so in some mea- sure with our own sex) that they are not introduced to their parents’ table till their palates have been completely be- numbed by the strict diet observed in the Nursery and Boarding Schools. Here then are two antagonists to Cookery—the Ladies and the Doctors; whose empire is as extensive as the universe, and who divide the world between them. However, in spite of the envious, the Ladies will’ still wield the sceptre of pleasure; while the dispensations: of the Doctors will be sought for by us, only when under the — influence of pain. ee Nature affords a simple remedy against the abuse of good _ cheer—Axstinence.—If you have eaten too much, doubtless ‘you will feel inconvenienced, In that case, have immediate recourse to some weak tea*, which will speedily liberate your stomach from the superfluities which encumber and | ‘oppress it, without leaving those intestinal pains which are a rather the result of the medicine than the effect of the 2 ~ disorder. Numbers of persons attribute the gout to the fre- . quent use of dishes dressed in the French way. Many years experience and observation have proved to me, that this dis- _ order has not its origin in good cheer, but in excesses of * Galen and Hippocrates said, that they left behind them two still. greater Doctors than themselves—WarTeR and ABSTINENCE, i" aa Sealed ate the = always agreeable to the palate, while theirs are horribly dis- ity ON COOKERY. XXVIl other kinds. Have we not seen, in years past, numberless: . individuals ‘who ‘have lived entirely on French Cookery, to’ - very advanced ages, without being afflicted with that dis- order? and do we not see daily, that the greater number of these who suffer the acute agonies of it, derive it from their predecessors, rather than from their own habits of life? A copious and sustained. exercise is the surest preventive. It is true, the gout more frequently attacks the wealthy than the indigent: hence it has been attributed to their way of living; but this is an error. It is exercise only which they need; not an airing on/horseback, or in a carriage, but that bodily activity which occasioning faticue, would enable them — to enjoy the sweets of repose. I do not attempt then, as empirics do, to prescribe ineffectually a remedy to cure the gout; but I have this advantage over them, that I afford a positive preventive against it; and thus withhold many a sufferer from falling under their dominion. If the A bts Cookery had been held in a little more estimation, there c ir be no doubt, but that among its professors many mig have been found informed enough, and sufficiently devot f to the interests of the human race, to give prescriptions B. Cookery as Doctors give them in medicine. We have’ th s. . advantage, however, over them, that our compositions are gusting. I therefore recommend a skilfully dressed dish, as i : in all respects more salubrious than simple fare. I do not ‘ mean to deny that a plainly roasted joint, well done, is food s of easy digestion; but I peremptorily proscribe all salted and underdone provisions, Pork, in whatever way it may be fexviti- ON COOKERY. dhesedly ‘isculways cndiorbiiletine yet if deenie in the French fashion, the stimulant of a sauce makes it aperient, and it of course is less indigestive than when:dressed plainly. Our manner of dressing vegetables is more Various and extensive than in England, a circumstance which extinct the double advantage, of flattering the palate and being of easier diges- tion. | je? 2); Baia aL” ay : I recommend as a certain preventive against disorder, i great bodily exercise—as tennis, shuttlecock, fencing, &c. for gentlemen; and for ladies, dancing, and such lively ex- ercises as are suited to their sex: walking also, but not the grave and deliberate. movements of a magistrate, but an active and accelerated pace, such as may occasion fatigue. ' _ Thus you may find health and appetite, which afford the - pleasure of a emnesninana by keeping you from the BORG ne more remark; and that on the disproportion — of which exists among Cooks. A person who has never biiny I niveptt prefer a inovained times, plain dish i 0 a made dish that is badly seasoned, badly trimmed, ; and above all, dressed in an uncleanly manner, and served up ith a disagreeable appearance. But the wealthy are able to vanquish these disadvantages, by engaging in their ser- vice persons properly qualified to be Hien in the rank of _ Anns RM tS. cl ill leooaks PAllemande cheeks ert: eeeeesve r Purée of Celery --+++- ioe Soubise, or Purée of Ot Ditto ditto, brown and Ly AISE tote ee eee eees Purée of White Beans « eee Ay, en e's oay4 Magers Fay Gey Hoe dan keataph rit easy a . i , eve 4; e ” , ON TEN se A > ar ati Bop S OCS. pa, Pia RO pt ‘CHAP. I. athe Sauces, Broths and Consommés. y VIE ead Ne ME Fab fhe phils b leo | ‘ PAGE PAGE First Broth ++esssseeee6 1) White Ravigotte ++-+.-s. 12. First Consommé -++-++++ 2] Maitre d’Hotel --.24-s+++. coder Consommeé of Poultry ie! g Maitre d’Hotel Maigre - tee AS Cie OF Cae OPA HE EE, arragon Sauce, or Pluche | AB. Consommé of Rabbits «--. 3 Bourguignotte secscceece | 14 Blond, or Gravy. of Veal -+ 3 | Bon Beurre ++++++++eeee- Ki 14 * Gravy of Beef iene eee 4 PAN ET ld (ile Sasi aed 14. Aspic RRSP NS Rak STR g oe 4 ‘Béchamelle Maigre sete ; Jelly of Meat for Pies ---- 5 | Genoese Sauce +--+ | Snage, or Empotage eee 6 Matelotte ditto for i | Slarified Consommé ---- 6} Ditto ditto for Entr | Clarified Gravy Dbeeeee ‘a 6| Apple-Sauce for Gee € & Bouillon de Santé teas 7 | Purée of Sorrel «+--+ Roux (White) -++++e+0000. 7| Bearnoise ++ «+. ‘Ditto (brown) -+eeeeeeee 7 | Sorrel en Maigre oe e 8 8 9 9 9 Velouté White Italian ance Se a ee © OO | Nouilles eee aL Purée of Mushrooms, wh and brown ey Purée of Green Pease, : and dry Rr Poy oe mM a OQ iis ih tae ‘Purée of Chesnuts -++-.-. a Macédoine A eeeser We. eee * z 21 f *) ‘oul CONTENTS. XXX : . PAGE : PAGE Sauce d’Attelets +++-++++++ 22] Butter of Crawfish--++-++. 33 Sauce for Sturgeon---+++++ 23} Butter of Anchovies -- --- 33 Red Cardinal Sauce. +.9.a¥# 28} Glaze sistas «Sue wae seen Lobster Sauce «++++esee+ 23] Sauce Robert «sesecsese 34 Sauce Ala Lucullus ++-++++ 24] Livernoise «+++ss eesooss Bh Velouté sseceevececesess 25] Hovhepot cossececesreee 85 Remoulade, common and Polonoise ++seeeerereees 85 Green ++-+ereeeeseeees 261 Cucumbers, or Blanquette 35 Mayonaise fe teecceeeresio | OF Ditto Essence Of. «destbee < 36 Egg Sauce ++-++es+eeee+* 27] Green Pease in WhiteSauce 36 _ Green Extract of Spinach. « 27 | Ditto a VEspagnole --+s++ 37 Verd de Persil «+++eeee++ | 27 Pease and Bacon +++++-+» 37 Pompadour Sauce ++++++++ 28 Poor Man’s Sauce «++«+- th. ad Dusselle -++++++++++2+* * 28] Love-Apple Sauce gi! 37 Pointes d’Asperge «+++ “++ 29] Bitter Orange Sauce ------ 38 Haricot (brown) +-++-++- 29 Celery Sauce «s+eccessess 38 Ditto (vierge) ++++-+++++ 30] Pascaline: cosesscsceeros§ 3G 3 Green Dutch Sauce «+--+» 301 Sauce 4 PAurore beeing 38 ‘Dutch Sauce +++-+++e-+++ 80] Toulouse eeeeceececeeed 39 Wasterfisch+++e+rsereseee | 39 : 31] Oyster Sauce for Fish +oo- — 39 English melted Butter ---- 31} Ditto for Poultry :sseee++ 149 Ragout | a la Financitre -> $1} Ttalienne with Truffles --- . 40 . 321 Manselle -+sscessescces’ AQ “32 | Marechalle Sancam=. 23S 38 | Caper Sauce for Fishee++++ 94. ee — ee: y i ‘a f wi ¥ CHAP. Il. ‘oxceeeeeinapio® ADS Bi WRT Patages and Soups. | ee oupe a Santé Setstaoee ee he Soupe a a VAurore én ee o> 45 age Consommé of Fowl 43| Brunoise + «seseseesere | 45 ageala Clermont ---- 43} Soupeal’Allemande «++. 45 | toala Julienne «----- 44] Ditto ala Condé oeeee AG. to ditto with Consommé Ditto dla Faubonne -+-++ 46 (teseeceeceeeee | 441 Ditto Ala Carmelite+-+-++. 46. oup reseseoscoce 441 Purée of Grecn Pease «+++ 47 u , ages Aa ian 2 RAs 3 Spr. ie Turnip Broth _ Puré€e of Pease, very green. Macaroni with Consommé Lazagnes, or flat Macaroni ditto Rice Soup +++esssaeseeee Ditto, with different Purées Vermicelli Soup Vermicelli 4 la Reine Italian Pastes— eeeeetoreereceee Potage a la Reine Semolina with pig es i Consommé Cream of Rice «++++--+-- Garbure, with brown Bread | Nee j Entrées that are to be served as Bours: or ecole want much — | ‘Sauce, and are consequently to be served in Deep Dishes. Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese Breast of Lamb with Green ' Pease (brown) +++++++- Ditto (white) +++-+-+-+- “Tendrons of. Ved with Pease @eeseoeeereoedes Ditto en Haricot Vierge =- _ Ditto en Chipolata, --+--- Pease and Bacon, .French - fashion @eoe*ser2res eevee _Haricot of Breast of Mutten Hochepot of ditto «-++s+ee Lamb’s Pluck a la Pascaline gd es CONTENTS. PAGE aT 47 . 59: 60 60 60 61 61 61 62 62° 63 | Potage with Cabbage German Cabbage Soup+++- 52 Good Woman’s Soup +++ 52 Potage au Nouilles «+++-- 52 Soupe 4 la Borgosse ++++++ 53 Milk Soup with Almond Laurel 53 Potage au Lait d’Amande.- + , "38 da Turtle Soup ++++++seeees 54 oe | Spring Soup -+++++-++- ae), an Gardener’s Soup ++ ese+e Mutton Cutlet Soup © : Hochépot Soup) es ++eeee) 3t Hs Mock Turtle cee acy ees ven ene Potage a la Beauveau cove =D PT ag eae Fae mE OIE GP ) bay’ Civet of Hare Duck with Sour Crags: Ditto (Members of) wit French Sour Haricot of Turkey Ditto of Turkey Pi ns Legs of Fowl with Not Regs a la Tripe «++: vee 3 ceeeeseoe Eggs a la Créme en Surp Hochepot of Rump of. Ditto en Haricot Brun. Ditto with Green Pea EXX, CONTENTS. Removes ok the Soups pie Tanbess CHAP. TL ere, ‘. ere os “PAGE tab al Rump of Beef glazed “eeee 67 | Turkey and Celery Sauce ++ 43. Ditto braized ++: resees 68] Ditto & la Perigueux, with Breast of Beef Ala Flamande 68] — Truffles -++-++cereceee 74 Sirloin of Beef roasted -++« 69 Ditto, boiled with OysterSauce 80 Leg of Mutton ditto -.---- 69] Fowls& la Condé ----«--- 74 ‘Saddle of ditto, ditto-+--+* 70] Dittodla Montmorenci -- 75. Leg of Mutton braized +--- 70] Ditto Ala Mirepoix ------ 79 Loin of Veal roasted +--+ 70} Capons 4 la Turque --+-+> 75 Ditto Ala Bechamelle ---- 71 | Ham (Westphalia) & TEssenge_ 75 Ditto Ala Créme «+ceseee ~71| Ditto with Madeira --.-- me 76 Calf’s Head, plain -++-+- 71] Ditto with Windsor Beans 77 Ditto, with Love-AppleSauce 72] Roast Beefof Lamb --++ [77 Ditto Bigarrée. «s+e+eeess 721 Ditto of Mutton --+-+-+6 78 | o du Puits certain «+++ 72} Saddle of Faun «+++rscess 78 a la Chambord -+-- 73} Haunch of Venison ---- ee 2’ rd Turkey Ala Mont- Neck of ditto «++eeessee 78° 78 79 82 Leg of Pork eeesovesenese or as a Remove of the Soup Soles broiled «+-2-seseeee 34. Whitings, fried g-e---eeees 84. Ditto, ditto French fashion 84 Ditto, boiled s++++e+202, 84 Mackarel, boiled «+++2++ > 85. Mackarel, broiled -+++-++2 9 85. Haddocks, boiled «+++*+++ 86. — Skate with Shrimp Sauce -- Bee Pike (boiled) with Dutch ance? 86 et - Ditto baked: week es ees 86 ae Ditto dla Genévoise «+. 87 | Ditto & la Polonoise --++-- 87 Ditto ala Chambord--+--« 88 P a = a, CONTENTS. o_ ».. PAGE PAGE. Pike au Court Bouillon -. Court Bouillon for Fish au bleu Trout a la Genévoise---+«+ Sturgeon roasted ++++++++ Ditto, baked -++-++--e0-0. Ditto, plain boiled---« +++ Carp au bleu without Sauce 88 | Carp au bleu, farciand baked 90 89 | Ditto, broiled with Caper : : ‘ 89 | Ditto, with Matelotte Sauce 91 89 Sauce Pe eNehsre aca) siaisne tiers) 91 90 Tench ol ewe teeter Sao QL. 90 Perch Reis sees se * See.” ag 90 | Ditto au Water Suchet ---- 92 * Se A eee Py es CHAP. IV. Farces or Forced Meats. : | : Panadas for Farces in general | Quenelles of Veal -+++-+--0) Ditto of Fowl _ Ditto of Rabbits sc eeereee Ditto. of Partridges agin Ss Ditto of Whitings --+:- ree Farce of Fowl a la Cream Ditto a Gratin of Partridges, Rabbits and Fowl sere 97 | Stuffing for Hare or’ ee ; a ———ii=——— ee ie A | Che: ads ck % CHAP. V. Entrées of Butchers’ Meat. Beef Palates, Blanquettes of 102 -102 | Ditto ditto, Croquettes. Ditto ditto, with Pease -- Ditto ditto, with Cucumbers Ditto ditto, with Truffles -- Beef Palates, Attelets of, a VItalienne Beef Palates au gratin, or en- , Paupiette -srsserecess peeeve e000 93 | Boudins Ala Richelieu «++» 97 93 | Ditto a la Sefton 94 | Farce of Carpe+sseese cee 95 | Ditto of Godiveau «-+e+see 96 | Ditto, green marbled -+++ 98 | Ditto, red marbled +--+. 96 | Ditto for Pies ++: eo ceeeee Ditto for Sausages «+++ e@oecegeeso BEEF. 102 | Beef Palates, Miroton of, la Ude eneecesesee Velouté oo celia slthey 103 Beef Tongue with’ “Sauce 103} Hachée «++-seeeeeeeee 105 | Ditto ditto, Miroton of, i, Cn 104| Turnips susan: 103 Wnty i : y a 2 Cc “9 : # nA & 4 i : oe bea: 3 i r x ays - Sheep’s Tongues withTurnips 118 i Rebar Va a taal ght Kore, ; ; ¢ BXXIV PAGE Beef Tongue, Miroton of, with» Sorrel Sauce 1.2... . 105 Ditto ditto ditto with Spinach 106 My Ditto ditto with purée of Sorrel 115 * Mutton (Necks of) en ai- - grettes cveccesesscesom 416 ‘Ditto ditto with Parsley «+ »116 Sarbonades 4 la Jardinigre 116 Breasts of Mutton A la Ste. * Menhoult:.dnae > eames addy Masette of Mutton with RY Endive “\s-ngriewe nate nade ye 2 Ditto ditto, fried ++++++++ 122 Ditto Kidneys broiled --+- 123 CONTENTS. rae Miroton of Beef | 108 Beef Kidney with Champaign 108 Beef Steaks with Potatoes, e@oeceese Tongue, Miroton of, with French fashion ++++--+. 108 mashed Turnips++++++-+ 106 | Sirloin ou Beef braized . . . 108 Ditto Pickled, glazed and Roast Beef -+++++sesseeee% 109 | bigarré s+se+++ s+eeee 106 | Brisketof Beefa la Flamande 110 Fillet of Beef sauté a la | Rib -of Beef, braized en. Lyonaise +++++- aie Gaveie Seeg ey Hochepot eee Ye ee Tt Ditto Marinaded Ala Broche 107 | L’Entre Cote of Beef broiled; re Ox Tail in Hochepot+---++* 1071 Sauce Hachée «+erse+- 110 Cae iden + ind tO SEDaR CHAP. VI... 0 ealfoagrs) Entrées of Mutton and Lamb. tton Cutlets 4 la Soubise 111} Sheep’s Tongues with Cab- to ditto en Haricot Vierge 112] bage Lettuce -----+---* 118 ) to. ditto ila Minute ++ 112} Ditto ditto au gratin +----+-! 119 3 Ditto ditto a Mtalienne -+ 113] Ditte ditto a la Maintenon 119 | Ditto ditto 2 1 Epigramme 113 } Mutton hashed ----+-.-+*” 119 | - Ditto ditto en Haricot Brun 113 | Ditto, minced with Cucumbers 120 ito ditto SautésAl’Essence 114 | Ditto ditto with Endive -- 120 Ditto ditto 8 la Maintenon 114 | Sheep’s Tails with purée of ~ Ditto, Anside fillets of, mari- green Pease «+++ seees «+ 120 . “naded see ecesesersene - 1415 {| Ditto ditto ala St. Laurent 120 : Ditto ditto & la Maréchale 115 | Sheep’s Brains. en Matelotte 121 Ditto ‘Trotters a1 a / Poulette 121 Ditto ditto in Canelons- + -- Ditto ditto with Champaign, 123 Leg of Mutton braized «+++ 124 Ditto stuffed +-----+s0+6 ° 494 Ditto boiled 125 Neck of Mutton boiled ++++ 124 Leg of ditto ditto. 125 ' eeereeor reer e ‘ ¢% 8) he ; Site ome Ua ae, x ie a CONTENTS. xxv . CHAP. VI. ae " Entrées of Veal. : | ae ; PAGE ee , PAGE . Veal Cutlets broiled a l'Ita- . | Ditto ditto dla Paysanne-- 136 -Tienne resecereeesceree’ 196 | Calf’s Brain en Matelotte 139 Ditto ‘ditto A. Ta Venitienne | 126 {| Ditto ala Maitre d’Hotel-+ 139° . Ditto ditto 4 la Dauphine 127 | Ditto with fried Parsley a 139 hs Ditto ditto a ala Mirepoix -« 127 | Ditto, Marinade Of eevee. 140 : Ditto ditto A la Maintenon 127 Ditto, with Love-Apple Sauce 140° ‘ Ditte ditto & la Chingara ++ 128] Tendrons of VealalaJardi- © : Ditto ditto dla Dreux - -- 128 NCTE seceseeee cocces 144 Ditto ditto dla Chalons -- © 128 | Ditto with green Pease(brown | 144. Ditto ditto & la Financitre 129 Ditto, ditto (white) ++---. : 444 Veal (Neck of) A la Cream 129 | Ditto with Cabbage Lettuce aS oe. Ditto ditto Ala Mirepoix -- 129} &lEspagnole .-++--+- 141 Ditto ditto a dla Barbarie » 130 Ditto en Marinade dites au Ditto ditto a! la Ste. Menhoult 130 Files ‘Avene ees eee Fricandeau with the different Ditto en Chipoleta (whit Parées- -chale ee cerevecesces 190* Ditto ditto a la Pompadour 191* t ? * Hares and Leverets. ee en Daube Civet of Hare Fillets of Hare math the Blood aa Ditto ¢ ditto en Chevreuil -- eooveee oe _ Roasted Hare, Pains of Hare, Boudins of Hare ++. -s- 198 Hare Soup Ct CC Tee Ir tay | 199 ; i bs? th ’ es Quails. Compotte of Q salle.’ Ve aka) 200 Ditto ditto white . Quails with Pease ----+e-e ~ Ditto au Gratin | Ditto a la Bourguignotte -- Ditto a la Crapaudine « --« e@eeosne aeoeece eo *@ Woodcocks and Snipes. Salmi of Woodcocks +--+ 203 Ditto ditto a VEspagnole + 208 - Croustade of purée of Wood- 4 Pe cocks Dates ae sole die #06 - OOS Salmi of Woodcocks a la Lu- : P cullus socdvccdeseces 204 iPr Suh 4 Plovers. - dace < an ilotade. of lovers. CorreNgS (ie ' -—-- Boudins of ditto. la Lucullus 190* | CaP x. ae | Ditto au Soleil Ditto i in | various ri 205 | Ca “ee oat ' PAGE -_Attereaux of Rabbits a l’Ita- lienne ee @2e8 coe eeoe 191* 8 Rabbits and Onions. esse 193 be gpa Fetetesrerse 198 } Pigeons. Pigeons a la cheats Cutlets of Pigeons a -magnac —+ee Ditto ditto a Ditto 4 l’Aspic c! Duck wah Olives Capilotade of Dack 2 GAN ae ep x . CONTENTS. | PAGE i ° PAGE ‘ Hot raised Pies of Larks «+ 215} Croquettes of Pheasant ++ 217 Larks en Croustade +++ 216| Hachi of Pheasant Ala Po- =~ kre Piieasanes: | lonoise oe cece econe 218 on 4 | Soufflé of Pheasant +-++-- 218 Salmi of Pheasants a I’Es- pagnole ecoeceoeeoceeecece Q164 CHAP. XIIl. Fresh- Water Fish, . Pike with Dutch Sauce -- 927. Ditto baked in the French WAY st eeecececcsccees 298 Ditto with Sauce 4 Matelotte ' Q29 Fillets of Pike &la Maitre — d’H6tel see cevcveese 999 Ditto 4 la Maréchale +--+. 229 Ditto ala Turqgue «+--+. 230 Pike dla Chambord» +... 930 Carp. rp, with Caper cece eseseseees Perch. Perch a la Waterfisch «+ 930° | Ditto plain boiled, or Water Suchet. ssekeaeheuee |. O34 Ditto a la Maitre d’Hotel « > 231 Ditto plain boiled withDutch > ‘A: y Sauce eovee ceeee coee 232 a Poul lett hitman Bites ae " ; tsi scr aie My Tench. - J testeterenens tenes RR ; if io oe Tench | Ly? cesses eta aeis 982 e@coeseoeoeeove 4 eee, ; Pike. Trout and Salmon Trout. olonoise +++ 226, Trout au Court-Bouillon -- * de : r anévoise Sauce 226 Ditto with Genévoise Sauce 23 im CONTENTS. . ‘sli Paes 2 . | PAGE | | ra (|. PAGE | Fillets of Trout 4 Aurore > 233 thd: Pe tage Crawfish. £ bork tee *) : Baked = ‘ " ees ‘ate oe 08) 234 Crawfish & la Poulette 4 Le : 235 “Trout plain boiled ++++++ 234 Ditto (Bisque of) © -+-++- 935. t omy yh re Ditto for Entrées -*++++ 236 ‘ol Lamprey al, sce eeenceece Q83A Shad RD ale) Magi 3 | ! . x Bae CHAP. XIV. Salt-Water Fish. Turbot. . ( Salmon with G enévoise S Turbot plain boiled ++. 298 | Ditto Pirate Sauce Ditto Fillets of 4 la Maréchale 238 ike Ditto ditto laCréme -- 239 Gratin of Fillets of Turbot au Velouté ++.s++-» - 239 i _ Vol au Vent d’Escalopes of Turbot au bon beurre -- 240 Petites Timballes of Fillets _ of Turbot a la Venitienne 241 -Turbotin broiled with Caper Sauce. stesseeeseces 241 Roast mb | Baked ditto — Blanquette | Paysann pay ecceceseseceessee 249 j John Dory ahi 949 Mia . bis i, Salmon. - Crimped Salmon with Lobster he il Salmon with Lobste an | Sells ia of Cod al , % ‘spwauce seeovesessee00 4 i : . ie WHotel eee eee Ditto broiled with Caper i ’ Sauce 2 alcatel e -. © \ Cutlets of _ a ee tre d’Hotel + +++ee++++ 243 | lad of Salmon «+++: Pei : “sal ‘Cod. i bas 2h py et P Ce i xiii - CONTENTS. - PAGE Salt Cod Ala bonne Femme 250. | Ditto A la Lyonaise eeee 250 Ditto Plain Egg Sauce «+ 251 | Whitings. Broiled Whitings “+ -#++ 951 Fillets of ditto Ala Orlie -- 251 Quenelles of Whitings 82 252 Boudins of ditto 4 la Ude-- 252 Fillets of ditto & la Maitre — PHOtel eee eee eee ee | 253 _Paupiettes of Fillets of Whiting 253 oss echie 25M Disece ewes} ae Whitings au gratin - Ditto fried 255 po a la Ravigotte 256 256 ne ZOU t of Fillets of Soles nity eee! sees 257 257 ts Miromesnl coee 258 259 roquettes of F illets of Soles 261 Ia. 261 Fresh. Herrings. esh Herrings broiled +--+ 261 ito ditto (soft roes of) in +2 #908 sf6 me sue vs 262 | Red Mullet : Diice | 202 | | Shell PAGE Fillets of Piper & la Sefton 263 Ditto ditto & la Maitre d’Hétel 263 Ditto ditto 4 la Orlie +++ 263 + Mackarel. Mackarel 4 la Maitre d’Hétel 264 Ditto boiled -+++se+++. 264 Fillets of ditto a la Ste. Men- hhoult «cvcecesscoss oe 965 Ditto ditto ala Maitre d’Hotel 265 Ditto ditto a la Ravigotte-- 265 Timballe of soft Roes of Mac- karel 4 la Sefton Eve eink SG Soft Roes of Mackarel in _ Cases cece eee e renee 266 Sea Dragon serreesrees+ | 266 See aD 4 piv lays e Bie Srerp e"eye 267 Anchovies Smelts eases evesosorses 267 Skate. | Laie: . Skate with Caper Sauce ++ 267 . Ditto au beurre Noir «+++ 968 Ditto plain boiled eeeeee 268 Small Skates fried se woes See Flounders a piancleds bt 269 ‘ Lobster. | ‘Small Titles of Lobster au Velouté —sereeceeee 269 ‘Scollops of rere in the © 7 cao a 263 | f CONTENTS, oxi Bis pata bic ORGS PAGE : / Lobster Sauce Dy ede oeeees 270 Small Oyster Patties a la ; . Salad of Lobster = -+++++ 270] Sefton -+eeeccererere 272 | ee GP or sexy Small Patties a la Frangaise- + ° “972 q Nrossels Gate ciale sie desice se! O71 1s a a. . Oyster Sauce + ereeeeeee 973 4 Crabs * ++++++e+eesee++* 271 Ditto ditto for Entrées ++ 273 4 Pia Reree ys Oysters. Attelets of Oysters <2+++* 273) ‘ Scollops of Oysters eresee 272 ia ? At : ‘ y Gat > ‘ " a ' | 2 y ee nee : om * Was : EGGS. Omelette Moélleuse -+++- 275 | Fried Poached Eggs +++» : » Ditto au fines Herbes ++ = 275 | Eggs 4 la Tripe ue Soe Small ditto with Ham ++ 276] Ditto a la Maitre Ditto ditto withSorrel ++ 276 | Ditto A l’Aurore melette with Veal Kidney 276 ‘Small Omelettes with Sweet- Ditto en surprise THEME caetncespacas's O76 - Fried Eggs e+seseeseeeees 277 | ° Eggs au Miroir PAR OT7 i - Poached Eggs -+-+++ +++ 277 4 Cations: r CardonsalEspagnole ++ 282 Ditto A?Essence with Marrow / 288 Ditto a Velouté » _tbeeee 283 Ditto 4 la Sauce blanche -- 4 284 3 SS eh Pgennch. Cauliflowers ala Sauce a Spinach aa Consommé ++ 284 | Ditto au Velouté | § - Ditto with Cream seeece 285 Ditto with E i" . Ditto. French fashion. Jerse 285 | Ditto a 17 _ Croustades of Spinach i —iodiv: CONTENTS. Oe PAGE Salsifis. Salsifis au Velouté --+e+- _ Ditto a l'Espagnole cece fi Ditto fried ae UR 2B Ditto en Salade or Aspic +« Artichokes. Artichokes au Naturel = «« Ditto a l’Estouffade ° i. ’ Ditto a la Barigoule ae Ditto Ala Provengale - -- Ditto fried ‘Ditto 4 V’Italienne Artichoke Bottoms Blane for Vegetables in i eeoseoeeoeeeve 1% eeesee @eveceoe Paaeae 04)" © eje o.2 0 general | rtichoke Bottoms en Ca- eeneoeeesceeoeeeee pes vee Beans. Beans & a Ta Poulette e@ese Jitto a la Lyonaise | a Frangaise + ad a Provengale a uk : White Beans. @ees08 @eecee | ola Poulette i Le ) Cardon fashion 294 294 295 295 295 296 296 296 oe) 1299 299 Sea Kale | Ditto Purée of | \ @©oveeose geese * Caw Brocoli @eeoewoeve 02802008 - Potatoes. Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel Ditto fried Ditto (Purée of) Ditto Croquettes of Ditto Casserolles of +++ Ditto Soufflé of Ditto Gateau of Ditto Biscuits of Oe eooene eeoeoe Wakes Young Green Pease, Pease, French fashion ++ | Ditto stewed with Bacon -- Ditto plain boiled | Ditto la Paysanne Windsor Beans. Windsor Beans a la Poulette Ditto with Bacon Turnips. Turnips with Saace blanche | Ditto glazed, Pear fashion Ditto, white Purée of = ++ Ditto, brown Purée of +e Carrots. — be | Carrots a la — 5, Lan? : i Ditto Soufflé - Celery a l’Espagi nol gle a +300 | Ditto with Sauce Blanche oo 307 30oT $08 308 te : =. CONTENTS. aly 5 ‘ ¢ , . bi s : , : ; --- SWEET ENTREMETS. ; 3 PAGE , PAGE | Apples. Egg and. Water Cream ° * 326 Apples 4 la Portugaise ++ 311 Eggs au Bouillon, and seers 826 ; Ditto Miroton of eocoee O11 Eggs sla Neige ates SB? Ditto Suédoise of ++ +++ S12 | tralian Cream | seee+ets 897 . Ditto Chartreuse of = -++- 313 | pine. Apple Cream «+++ 828 Ditto Turban of — +++. ** 3131| Cabinet, or Chancellor's | Créme Patissiere ++++++ $14 Pudding souetadees SQGN “ 2 a seeceeeees S14! Sonfié, or Cake of Tapioca 328 | Rice for Entrées. Tapioca gratiné PAR wats, ; Croquettes of Chesnuts -- 329 Casserolle of Rice cece Std . bis Cassolettes of Rice +++» 316 — Soufflés for Entremets. Rice Cake sreeeeess 317 | Soufflé of Potatoes with es mo Croquettes of Rice -++--+ 318 | Ditto of Orange-] eee Soufité of ditto eevee 319 | Ditto of ground Ric mf Rice gratin’ soseeeee 319! Ditto of Bread _ Ditto Turban of = ++++++ =319| Ditto of Coffee s Ditto, Croquettes of, with Ditto of Chocolat x Apricot Marmalade ++ 320] Ditto of Vani , Ditto, ditto, stuffed with Ditto of Saffron : “Apples ~, ¥: gine cesses ce $20 Ditto of Rose | —“Soufflé of apie a bordure Ditto Pine-App om of Rice seeeresere 3201 Omelette Souffle — Charlotte of Apples, mixed 1 withRice = +-++-+6- 32] | Crean Pancakes, Fre he vat Ditto, English Coffee Cream = -++e+e+s 322) en 3 Lemon ditto = «+se++e- 322] ; Chocolate ditto seeeee $93 | Strawberry Je Wream ala Vanille cece (Ba) | | geet ditto Ditto au Thé oe Wane 2 SMe ee Orange-Flower Cream cee ; Cream a la Genét, dite au _ Caramel ches coeneere 304 White "er 325 | Orange Jelly — 2eo080 Mileielt. Seiogfase berries ee tee ee —oxlvi CONTENTS. Pace| PAGE Lemon Jelly ssessees 336] Paste for Tarts and Tourtes 353 Mosaic ditto secceers 336 ; ; Pine-A pple ditto -eee 338 | Puff-Paste cocceseese S54 Cherry ditto seeceeee 338 ats ¥ : ; Past Entrées. __ Jelly and Miroton of Peaches a ee si hatag : 7) Ja Ude ceeccreees 359 Vol au Vent seeecees 356 Calf’s Foot Jelly seee 839 Ditto for Sultane elghtee BG Madeira Wine Jelly -- 340| Petits Patés of all sorts ++ - 356 Fromages a la Glace, or Fromages Bavarois, © Fromage of Apricots oe 34d Ditto of Strawberries «+ $42 Ditto of Raspberries e+ 342 F Ditto of Orange-Flowers ++ 342 Ditto a fa Vanille cee 342 ee “Ditto au Marasquin -+-- 343 _ Ditto au ‘Chocolat -++--+ 343 o au Café ssssee 343 Mar led. Jellies Bo eeeree 848 Cream au Café -- 344 White Vanilla die Adi ps 346 e+ $48 t Piesof Fowl or _ | er dressed ora iay” bo, ewlnn sis 4840) ommé. for the inside of SWed ead cces 350 for, hot raised Pies > 350 ater Paste eo ee 351 Truffles. with Champaign Wine 352 oa VTtalienne eeee 352 he n mt balle for Macaroni Aree Small Timballes for all sorts of Entrées, or for Darioles a la Cream of every flavour 357 Dariole Ala Cream +--+ 357 Ramequins ala Sefton +--+ 358 Ditto common tecees 358 Cheesecakes, =: ++) s#*#s 358 Ditto, Frenché s+. aac. a9 Pastry for Entremets. ss Gateaux ala Polonoise .. 359 Puits d’Amour with Jam ... 360. Petites bouchées, garnished 360. Lozenges ditto ..... +.» 360 Feuillantines Pralinées ... 361 Gateaux dla Manon ... - 361 Croques en Bouche .... 361 Feuillantines garnished .. 362 paniers garnished. gis. by 62 Petits with Jam .....«. PP ecites Nattes decorated - + 362. Little Cockades garnished 363 “Apricot Cakes trellised_ + 363 werner gt M ibe ke Paste / ee Wand 77 364 Gateau de Cae Meene + ae 1968 Baba ..«.. . aiaies\ald-eeeGee Brioches au Fromage .... 366 Nougat . «eee ceee 367 Si baste fOr aafte . . 2 ess) 6OTG cd = 179%, for Chap. IX. read Chap. eae : ~¥- 7: CONTENTS. ‘ae, aimee PAGE | - : PAGE Sweet Entremets and Hot Pastry. | Créme patissiere or Frangi- 5 Dry Meringues ........ 367 pane . 2.5 .e002-- 3876 4 Meringues au Marasquin .. 368| Almond Paste ....... 377 Gimblettes Paste ...... 369 Tartlets of ditto #..... 378 Ditto ditto! with Strawberries 37 8 : ea 4 Royal Paste, dite au Choux 370] Tartlets of Jam....... 879 ‘Gauffres Ala Flamande .. 379 Petits choux pralinés . , , ‘Srt Gimblettes Ala d’Artois .. 371] Gateaua la Madeleine .. . 380 | 4 Ditto Pralinées ....... 372 | Genévoise Paste ...... 380 ee. Basket of Petits Choux a la _| White Gimblettes of Gené- eps : Chantilli ........; s7a| vole +++ ses ene. e 881 iia ta Duchesse’. 978 Rose or Green ditto ditto . 381 ral bets ° i oa Choux en Biscuits, or Ga- _ Fruit Tart, English manner 381 _ teaux ala d’Artois.... 373 : i hs | Receipt to make a Ham su- ee Savoy Biscuits, hot wees 874 perior to those of We Ditto ditto, cold ...... 375 phalia <5. 5 sat Biscuits in cases ....'.. 376 To mash Turnips or Ditto a lacuillitre ..... 3761 Batter for frying . ‘ a ERRATA. Page 124, No. 32, after No. 7, read. page 70. pe _ — 142, No, 37, instead of No. 8, page 62, read No. 6, _ — 142, No. 38, instead of No. 9, s ay B4a¥ iy Dhl 2 TERR SET @ * pee ie x menned tinh.” follows: — sti ue i FRENCH COOK, CHAP. I. SAUCES, BROTHS, AND CONSOMMES, gh No. 1.—First Broth. 'Taxe part of a breast or of a rump of beef, with s the parures, or trimmings. Put the meat into a stock-pot with cold water. Set it on the fire, and watch the proper moment to skim it well. If this broth is not clear and bright, the other broths and sauces will also be spoilt. Be particular in skimming off the black scum; pc little cold water into the above to raise up the white se When all the scum has been skimmed off, put in handful of salt into the stock-pot, and let the wh simmer for five hours. Strain the broth through a cloth, — or a double silk sieve. Lay the piece of beef in some of the broth, to keep it hot. This first broth serves to moisten all the other broths, of which the different names are as B : _ No, 2.—First Consommé. Mark * in a stock-pot a large piece of buttock of beef, with a knuckle of veal, and the trimmings of meat or fowls, according to the quantity of sauce you may wish to make. This broth will admit all sorts of veal or poultry. Let the meat stew on a gentle fire. Moisten with about two large ladles full of the first broth; put no vegetables into this broth, except a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let them sweat thoroughly; then thrust your knife into the meat; if no blood issues, it is a sign that it is heated through. Then moisten it with boiling broth, and let it boil gently for about four hours. Use this consommé to make the sauces, or the consommés of either poultry or game. Skim off the fat and scum of all the various broths, _and keep the pots full, in order that the broth be not too high in colour. When the broth remains too long on the ‘fire, it loses its flavour, acquires too brown a colour, and tastes strong. ned No. 3.—Consommé of Pouliry. _ Beer is no longer required in the consommés either of poultry or of game. Put a few slices of ham in the bottom of a stew-pan, or of any other vessel, with some slices of veal. In France, we generally take the noia and the contre noint. Lay over the veal the loins of fowl: and trimmings. Then moisten about two inches deep with first consommé, and let it sweat on a fire, so con- fined that the blaze may not colour the exterior of the vessel. When the meat is heated through, (which * Markis.a French word, which signifies, that all the ingredients: requi- site are to be put into the stock-pot. t The leg of veal is divided into three different parts, noir, sounotr, and ' contre noiz. ee es ., 3 you ascertain by thrusting your knife into it, as at page 2), cover it with the first consommé; season.it with mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and let the meat boil till it be done properly. The broths are more savoury and mellow when the meat is not overdone. Strain the consommé through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. No. 4.—Consommé of Game. IF you are to send up entrées of partridges, you must have ready a consommeé of partridges. Put into a stew-pan a few slices of veal, the backs, &c. of partridges to be laid over ‘them. Ifyou moisten with a consommé containing ham, there is no occasion to put in any more ; if not, a few slices of ham will not be amiss. If your entrées are with truffles, add the parings of your truffles and.a few mushrooms. When the consommé is sufficiently done, strain it through a cloth, or silk sieve, and use it when you have an opportunity. No. 5.—Consommé of Rabbits. vig | Mark* . the various -consommés. with the bones and trimmings of rabbits. Do the same as for a consommé of partridges ; putin truffles if your entrées are.to be with sammie No. 6.—Blond of Veal, or Gravy of Veal. Pur a few slices of Westmoreland ham (the lean only) sat into a pretty thick stew-pan. Lay over them some fleshy pieces of veal. You may use rump of veal. Pour into the stew-pan a sufficient quantity of first consommé to cover about half the thickness of the meat. Let it sweat.on a stove, over a brisk fire., Watch the stew-pan and the con- *® Mark means, to make each consommé with the trimmings either of game or fowls. B2 FS ae 4 tents, for fear of burning. When the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat, that all the gravy may run out; then stew the glaze more gently. When the whole is abso- lutely & glace, of a good colour, you must let it stew till brown, but take care it does not burn, to prevent which put it on red-hot ashes. Keep stirring your stew-pan over the fire, in order that the glaze may be all of the same : colour. Turn the meat upside down, that it may not stick. When your glaze is of a dark red colour, moisten with some hot broth; let the glaze detach before you put the stew.-pan on the fire, for it might still burn. Season with mushrooms and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When the gravy has boiled for an hour, it is done enough. _ Take off the fat, and strain it through a silk sieve. No. 7.—Gravy of Beef. Trim, with layers of fat bacon, the bottom. of a thick stew-pan ; cut four large onions by halves, lay the flat part ‘over the bacon; take a few slices of beef, put them in the same manner as in the gravy of veal, moisten with the first broth only. Let this sweat, in order to get all the gravy out of the beef, and when the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat; let it stew gently on a slow fire, till the ‘gravy be of a light brown*, Next moisten with some first broth, throw in a large bunch of parsley and of green onions, a little salt, and a pepper corn. Let the whole-boil for one hour; take the fat off, and drain it through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. No. 8.—L’ Aspic. Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet, chervil, and tarragon. . Boil them in white vinegar; when * The browner the glaze is, the better, but care must be taken not to burn j it, as it will then. be bitter, 5 the vinegar is well scented, pour into your stew-pan some consommé of fowl reduced; season well before you clarify. When the aspic is highly seasoned, break the white of four : eggs into an earthen pan, and beat them with an osier rod ; throw the aspic into those whites of eggs, and put the wot on the fire in a stew- -pan; keep beating or stirring till your - ) jelly gets white, it is then very near boiling. Put it on the corner of the stove, with a cover over it, and a little fire on the top of it. When quite clear and bright, strain it through a bag or sieve, to be used when wanted. N.B. If you should want to use it for a “‘mayonaise, or as a a jelly in moulds, you must make sure of its being stiff enough. If it be not, add to it, either a knuckle of veal or a calf’s foot ; put it into a small mould in ice, for trial ; when you may ascertain whether it may be used in large moulds, which, it is to be observed, require the jelly to be . quite firm. You must use chiefly those parts which have - tendons about them, as knuckles of veal, calves feet, &c. No. 9.—Jelée of Pasa, for Pies. The jelée of meat for pies, is not to be prepared in the | same manner as the aspic. Neither aromatic herbs nor vinegar are to be used. The jelée is to be made as follows : Put into a stew-pan a good piece of beef, two calves feet, a . a knuckle of veal, remnants of fowl, or game, according to oe the contents of your pies, two’ onions stuck with cloves, fy! two carrots, four shalots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, some thyme, bay leaves, spices, &c. anda small piece of ham. Sweat the whole over a very slow fire, then moisten with some good broth, let the stew-pan be covered close, and those ingredients stew for four hours, but very gently. When done, taste it, season it well, and clarify it as you do the aspic. In order that it may keep the better, put it into ice. 6 No. 10.—Le Suage, or Empotage*. Markt in a marmite twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, a hen, and if you have any remnants of fowl or of — veal, you may put them in likewise. Mboisten this stock- pot with two large ladles full of broth. Sweat it over a large fire. Let it boil to glaze without its getting too high in colour. Next fill it up with some first broth that is quite hot. Put some vegetables into this pot, which is intended for making soup only. But you must put very - few into the consommés which are to be reduced, and would have a bitter taste if they were to retain that of the roots, and accordingly not be fit to be used in delicate cookery. L’empotage requires no more than five hours to be done; strain it through a silk sieve, and use it when you have occasion for it, No. 11.—Clarified Consommé, Is to be clarified as specified for the aspic, and yelée of meat. You must not forget, that such articles as are to be clarified, require to be more highly seasoned than others, as the clarifying takes away some of the flavour. No. 12.—Clarified Gravy. Gravy of veal, or beef, is to be clarified with whites of eggs. ‘The gravy of veal is best suited for the table of the great. ‘The gravy of beef may do for. private families of the middle class. | * Remark, that this broth is to be made for a very large dinner only. | + Mark, must be understood as an abbreviation for putting in all the requisite articles, » No. 13.—Le Bouillon de Santé. Mark or put into an earthen pot* or stock-pot, six pounds of beef, one half of a hen, and a knuckle of veal. Moisten with cold water. Let it boil so that the scum ~ rises only by degrees; skim it well, that it may be quite clear: and limpid. When skimmed, throw into it two carrots, two leeks, a head of celery, two onions stuck with three cloves, and three turnips. Let the whole simmer gently for four hours. Then put alittle salt to it, and skim off the grease or fat before you use it. No. 14.— White Rourt. Pura good lump of butter into a stew-pan, let it melt over a slow fire ;_ when melted, powder it over with flour, enough to make a thin paste; keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, fry it white ; pour it into an earthen pan to use it when wanted. No. 15.—Brown Roux. Pur into a stew-pan. a piece of butter proportionate to. the quantity of roux you want to prepare. Melt it gently; then put flour enough to make a paste; you must fry itona _ brisk fire, and then put it again over a very slow fire, till it. be of anice colour; but mind this is to be obtained only by slow degrees. When ofa light brown, you pour it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use. It keeps a long while, * In France, these broths are generally made in an earthen pot, but such pots cannot be found in England. + We are unable to find an equivalent in English for the French term roux. Itis an incispensable article in cookery, it serves to thicken sauces; the brown is for sauces of the same colour ; and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and give a bitter taste. » * e ~» No. 16.—The Coulis. . Make the coulis in the same manner as the gravy of veal, with slices of ham, and slices of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice colour, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. You must season it with a bunch of parsley and green onions, mushrooms, &c.. Then mix some brown roux with the gravy of veal, but do not make it too thick, as you could not | get the fat out of your sauce, and a sauce with fat, neither has a pleasing appearance nor a good flavour. Let. it- stew for an hour on the corner of the stove, skim off the fat, and strain it through a tammy, &c. No. 17.—Grande Espagnole, BEsIDEs some slices of ham, put into a stew-pan some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for the coulis ;, sweat them in the like manner ; let all the glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour, moisten with a few spoonfuls of first consommé, to detach the glaze: then pour in the coulis. Let the whole boil for half an hour, that you: may be enabled to remove all the fat. Strain it through a clean. tammy. Remember always to put into your sauces some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, It is time to observe to the professors of cookery, that the flavour comes from the seasoning: if you neglect to put into your dish the necessary articles. to a nicety, the flavour will be deficient. Mind that the sauce or broth, when kept too long on the fire, loses the proper taste, and takes instead of it, a strong and disagreeable one. No. 18.—Espagnole of Game. Tue same operation as above, except that in this you introduce the loins and trimmings of either young or ald 9 partridges, in order that this sauce may taste of game.. Put them to sweat. Remember that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, lose their savour, and fumet of the game. No. 19,—Sauce tournée. ‘Take some white roux, dilute it with some consommé of fowl; neither too thin nor too thick. I must repeat what I have already said, a sauce when too thick will never admit of the fat being removed. Let it boil on the corner of the stove: Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of par- sley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use it. when wanted. | No. 20.—Sauce a l Allemande. » Tuts is merely a sauce tournée as above reduced, into which is introduced a thickening * well seasoned. ‘This sauce is always used for the following sauces or ragouts, viz. blan- queite of all descriptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or pa- lates, ragout d-la-toulouse, loin of veal G-la-béchamel, white Financiere, &e. &e. No. 21.—The Velouté. TaKE much about the same quantity of consommé and of sauce tournée, and reduce them over a large fire. When this sauce is very thick, you should have some thick cream boiling and reduced, which you pour into the sauce, and give it a couple of boilings; season with a little salt, and strain through a tammy. If the ham should be too salt, put — in a little sugar. Observe, that this sauce is not to be so thick as the béchamel. . : ae we it, * Thickening, is what is called in French, Matson; the yolk of two or four eggs, 10 No. 22,— White Italian Sauce. Arter having turned some mushrooms, throw them into a little water and lemon juice to keep them white. For- merly it was customary to use oil for these sauces, as on account of its being much lighter, it would rise always to. the top, whereas in thick sauces butter does not. Put into a stew-pan two-thirds of sauce tournée, and one-third of. consommé; and two spoonfuls of mushrooms chopt very fine, and especially of a white colour, half a spoonful of shalots likewise chopt, and well washed in the corner of a clean towel. Reduce this sauce, season it well, and send it up. No. 23.—Brown Italian Sauce. Ir is requisite in a kitchen to have what is commonly called an assiette, which is a dish with four partitions, in- tended for the reception of fine herbs. You must always have ready some parsley chopt very fine, some shalots the same; if the mushrooms were chopt before hand they would “become black; therefore only chop them when you have occasion for them; the fourth partition is intended for the reception of bunches of parsley and green onions. The chopping and mincing of the above is the business of the apprentice, if there be one under the head cook; if not, of the junior kitchen-maid. Take two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one spoonful of shalots, one ditto of parsley.* ‘Throw the whole into a " stew-pan with two-thirds of Espagnole sauce, and one-third of consommé. Some people add white wine to the sauce. In France, where there is a choice of light white wines, it might be done easily, but in England, where Champaign is * This sauce will have a better taste, if you fry the finer herbs in a little butter, and moisten them after with the Espagnole, and consommeé. i the only wine that can be used, it would be too dear; be- sides, the sauce may be made very good without any wine whatever, if you know how to work it well, to its proper degree, with a little salt, and still less pepper. Brown sauces are not to be made thick. When the sauce is done enough, you must shift it into another stew-pan, and put it aw bain marie. If you were not to skim this sauce with particular care, you might skim off all the pare win amrust remain in it. No. 24.— The Sauce Hachée. Tuts. sauce, although seldom if ever used in good cookery, is frequently to be met with at taverns and inns on the road, Such as it is, it is to be made in the following | way. Chop some girkins, mushrooms, capers, and ancho- vies, which throw into a brown Italienne, and that is what . is called a sauce hachée. Why have I called this a tavern or common inn sauce? Because it is not requisite to have an Ttalienne well prepared. A common browning made with butter and flour, moistened with a little broth, or gravy, and some fine herbs in it, will answer the purpose of those who know no better. No. 25.—White sharp Sauce. Pour into a stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vinegar, to which add some tarragon (if you have no tarragon, use tar- ragon vinegar), and about twenty pepper corns; reduce the vinegar to one-fourth of its original quantity; pour into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two spoonfuls of consommé; then reduce this sauce over a large fire. Strain _ it through a tammy, and then put it again on the fire. When it boils, thicken it with the yolk of two eggs, work it with a small bit of butter. In case it we 2 happen to be brown, pour a spoonful of cream into it, to restore the white colour, and put a little cayenne and salt. 12. No. 26 — The Brown sharp Sauce. In a small stew~pan, put a small bit of butter,. a small | carrot cut into dice, a few shalots the same, some parsley roots, some parsley, a few slices of ham, a clove, a little _ thyme, the half of a bay leaf, a few grains of pepper corn and allspice, with a little mace. Let the stew-pan now be put on a slow fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown all round; then keep stirring with a wooden spoon; pour into the stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vinegar, and a small bit of sugar. Let this reduce nearly @ glace. Then moisten with some Espagnole and a little consommé, that you may be enabled to take the fat off from the sauce; season with cayenne and a little salt. Taste whether there be salt enough, but mind, it is not to be too acid; skim off the fat, © and strain the sauce through a tammy, and serve up, ‘No. 27.—The Aspic Lié. Put into a stew-pan such herbs as are lied ravi~ gottes, namely burnet, chervil, and: tarragon. Add two or three spoonfuls of white vinegar, and let the herbs infuse on a slow fire for half an hour. Then moisten with eight spoonfuls of Espagnole: let the whole stew for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. Season it well, and strain it through a tammy, to use when wanted. No. 28.— White Ravigotie. THE same as above, axcept that instead of Espagnole, you use sauce tournée. Let it boil for half an hour, then strain this sauce through a tammy. Have the same. herbs as above, chopt very fine, blanch them in a little salted water, lay them in a sieve to drain, and pour the ravigotie into the sauce. Work it with a small lump of butter, sea- son with salt and pepper, and ‘send up. Never omit to 13 taste the sauce, for occasionally, according to the palate of the host, some ingredients may be wanting, others too plentiful, which may be easily remedied; when too salt, a small bit of sugar corrects the ee taste. Ma + antics No. 90.—The Maitre d’ Hotel. ‘ at Ss > Take four svisimbals of Allemande; work this sauce over a stove with a small lump of fresh butter. Take some par- sley chopt very fine, throw it into the sauce with a little salt and pepper, and the juice of alemon. Let this sauce be thick, if intended to mask* any entrée whatever. At | any rate it is easy to thin a sauce, but if too thin, it is a ah hard matter to thicken it, except with a lump of butter and : flour, yet. let it be ever so well managed, it is but a sad contrivance. | No, 30.—Maitre d’ Hétel maigre, Is nothing more than plain butter sauce with a little if chopt parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. If shalots are acceptable, a few may be added, the same as to th matire d’hdtel above. — . ; . Ha No. 31.—Tarragon Sauce, or Pluche. See No. 25, White sharp Sauce. Blanch some tarragon, } either in fillets, squares, or any other shape you may think / proper, and put it into the sauce. It is then called Tarra- gon Sauce. In other pluches, tarragon must always pre- vail, You may make pluches of rte? Al chervil, Ke. with the sauce called white sharp sauce, Ur liv ; * Mask, means to Oe RE sauce, € Ga. ee, Pee tht 14 No. 32.— The Bourguignotte. Cur some truffles into balls of the size of a nutmeg: take some small round mushrooms, and put about twenty of each into a small stew-pan: pour over them a pint of red wine, with a small lump of sugar. Let the wine be reduced to a glaze. Then throw into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of Espagnole, and two of consommé, Let the whole boil for half an hour, taste it, and if well seasoned, serve it up. No. 33.—The bon Beurre. TakE some Allemande, (Vide No. 20) rather thick, into which put a bit of butter. Work the sauce well, season it, and serve up. No. 34.— The Béchamel. "Take about half a quarter of a pound of butter, about three pounds of veal, eut into small slices, a quarter of a pound of ham, some trimmings of mushrooms, two small white onions, a bunch of parsley and green onions; put the whole into a stew-pan, and lay it on the fire till the meat be made firm. Then put three spoonfuls of flour; moisten with some boiling hot thin cream. Keep this sauce rather thin, so that whilst you reduce it, the ingredients may have time to be stewed thoroughly. Season it with a little salt, and strain it through a tammy, when it retains no taste of flour, and the sauce is very palatable. No. 35.-——-The Bechamel maigre*, Is prepared as above, with the exception of the meat, which is to be omitted. If you have made any sauces from * This sauce is only for those wha practise the Roman Catholic religion. 1 : fish, put a little of the juice or gravy of the fish with the | cream. When done, strain it through a tammy, and serve up. ‘4 No. 36.— The Genoese Sauce. Tis sauce is made by stewing fish, yet it is natural ' enough that it should find its place among the other sauces. Make some marinade of various roots, such as carrots, roots of parsley, onions, and a few mushrooms, with a bay leaf, some thyme, a blade of mace, afew cloves, and some spices; fry the whole white in:some butter. Pour in some Ma- deira or other white wine, and let. the vegetables stew. When done enough, use it to stew your fish in, and take some of the liquor to make the sauce. Then take a little brown rouse and mix it with some of the marinade, to which add two or three spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now let these stew gently on the corner of the stove; skim off all the grease, and season well. Then put to it two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and a quarter of a pound of butter kneaded with flour, and throw them into the sauce. When this is done, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon, and cover the fish with the sauce, which must accordingly be made thick and mellow. No. 37.-—Sauce & Matelotte, for Fish. MELT some brown roua, into which throw a few onions cut into slices: keep it stirring over the fire till the onions be dissolved in the roux. Then moisten with the wine in which your fish has been stewed, and which, by the bye, must be red wine. Add some parures, or trimmings of mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, well seasoned with spices; bay leaves, thyme, sweet basil, cloves, allspices, &c, Let the flour be well done. Remember to throw in a few spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now taste whe- 16 ther the sauce be properly seasoned, and strain it through a tammy. Then take a few small glazed onions and mush- rooms, ready done, likewise a few small quenelles, and put them into the sauce. When you are ready to serve up, you must add the juice of a lemon, and two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies. Work the sauce well, that it may be quite mellow. Then cover your fish with the sauce. No. 38.—Sauce & Matelotte for Entrées. SEE Sauce Chambord. It being the same which is used for the mateloties of brains, &c. The matielote when not of fish, is made with ragout a la financiere, into which you introduce essence of anchovies and some crawfish, when you can procure them: this sauce must be highly rer with salt, OAySRRES and lemon juice. | No. 39,—Apple Sauce for Geese and Roast Pork. PEEL some apples and cut them into quarters, put them nto a stew-pan, with a little brown sugar, and a little water. When they are melted, stir them well with a wooden spoon, add a little butter to it, and send up. No. 40.—Purée of Sorrel. Was and pick some sorrel, and then put if into a stew- pan with a little water: keep’ stirring with your spoon to prevent its burning; when melted, lay it in a hair sieve to drain, then put it on the table and chop it well with some trimmings of mushrooms, When chopt fine, put it into a stew-pan with a little butter; let it fry a long time on the fire, in order to drain the water it contains. When it is be- come quite dry, mix it with four spoonfuls of Espagnole, or more, if you have any occasion for a large quantity ; and let it stew fora long while over a small stove. After it has 17 been continually boiling for an hour, rub it through a tammy. - If: it should happen to be too thick, dilute it with a little consommé or Espagnole. If too acid, put in a little glaze and sugar... You must always put some cabbage-lettuce with the sorrel, to correct its acidity. When you make purée of sorrel, if you have no sauce to put to it, put a spoonful of flour, and dilute with gravy of veal, and proceed then as before. No. 41.—Sorrel en maigre. Pick your sorrel, let it melt, drain it, and lay it on the table, as above. Mind that the table be very clean. Then chop the sorrel for a long time and very fine, fry it gently in a stew-pan with a little butter. When it has been kept for about half an hour on a slow fire, throw in a spoonful of four; moisten with boiling hot cream, and let it stew on _ a slow fire for an hour. Then season it with a little salt. If your sorrel should be too acid, put a little sugar to it. Then thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and serve up... If you should prefer making a Béarnoise, you make a kind» _ of pap with flour and cream or milk, and let it boil, When the sorrel is done enough, pour the Béarnoise into it, and let it boil ten minutes, then put the yolks of four eggs immediately after to thicken it. In this manner the sorrel will never curdle, whereas if you follow the other method, it most frequently will. Ifit be with broth that you wish to prepare your sorrel, instead of cream or milk, youmix some with it, and use the yolks of eggs in the like manner, / and that is what we call farce*, a 4 No, 42.—Purée of Céleri. Cur the whitest part of several heads of celery, which blanch in water, to take off the bitter taste. Let it cool, and * A dish much used by the Roman Catholics; Eggs d da furce, ¢ LE ais 18 drain all the water off. Then put it. into a stew-pan with a little consommé and sugar. Let it stew for an hour and a half, and be reduced till there be no kind of moisture. Then mix it with four spoonfuls of béchamelle or veloute, strain the whole through a tammy, and put it au bain marie*, When ready to send up, refine the sauce with A: little thick cream to make it white. No. 43.—Purée of Onion, or Soubise. Take a dozen of white onions. After having pealed and washed them, cat them in halves, take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as possible, and blanch them to make them taste sweeter. Then set them melting on a small stove, with a little butter. When they are thoroughly done, and no kind of moisture left, mix four spoonfuls of ‘béchamelle. Season them well, rub the purée through a tammy, and keep this sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also put a small lump of sugar with the sauce if wecessary. No. 44.—Purée of Onion, Brown, and Lyonaise. — Pert and wash twelve onions clean, then mince them, and fry them in a stew-pan with a little butter, till brown. * Bain marie is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all your _ stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil. The effect of this bain marie, is to keep every thing warm, without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly the quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman in this country, who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was conse- quently uncertain, I was inthe habit of using batm marie, as a certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes, If you keep your sauce, or broth, or soup by the fire-side, the soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. | Itis necessary to observe, that this is the best manner of warming turtle- soup, as the thick part is always at the bottom of the stew-pan; this method prevents it from burning, and keeps it always good, 19 _ Then moisten with some Espagnole, if you have any ; if not, singez* with two spoonfuls of flour, mixed with some gravy of veal. Now scum the fat, and season well with salt. Then strain the purée through an old Sipe for these ‘sort of purées would destroy new ones. _ For the Lyonaise make a purée of onions Hikewta’’ but then keep the sauce a little more liquid. Take some very small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them till they be of a light brown, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, and throw them into the sauce. Give them one single boiling, that the fat, getting at the top, may easily be skimmed off ; and serve up. No. 15 Burge of White Beans. New white beans are the best suited for making a purée. Put them into boiling water if they be fresh, and in cold water if they be dry, with a little butter in either case, which makes the skin more mellow. When they are done, throw in a handful of salt to give them a seasoning. Fry a few slices of onion in a little butter; when they are of a nice brown colour, singez them with half a spoonful of _ flour ; moisten with gravy of veal, and season with a little salt and pepper, and skim off the grease. When the. flour: is do” cotimix it well with the beans, let them boil fifteen mintes, squeeze them well before you rub them through the tammy. Let your purée be rather liquid, as it gets thick when on the fite. A short time before it is sent up, mix with your beans a small bit of butter, and then serve up. ‘ | The purée en maigre is prepared in the same manner; but instead of sauce grasse, you use jus maigre, or milk. If you wish to make it white, you must sweat the onions gently and slowly, that they may not get brown. * Singez, is putting some flour into the stew-pan. c 2 90 No. 46.—Purée of Mushrooms, White and Brown. Ir you wish to make a white purée of mushrooms, you must then turn the mushrooms white in a little water and lemon juice: chop them; then put them into a stew-pan, with a very small bit of butter. When the mushrooms are what we call melted, moisten them with four or six spoonfuls of velouté. Do not let them boil long, for fear they should lose their taste and colour. Then rub them through a tammy. It is no easy matter, indeed, with regard to mushrooms, yet this sauce is called Rue of mushrooms. It is almost useless to observe, that for the brown purée, it is enough to moisten with some Espagnole only. If you were to fry the mushrooms brown, they then would turn - black, and make the sauce of the like colour. Skim your sauce. Puta little sugar into both. All such sauces as are called purée, must be made thicker than others. 7 No. 47.—Purée of Green Pease, new and dry. Tue purée of green peas for an entrée, is prepared in the same manner as that described for potage or soup. You must only keep it thicker, and richer, which is done by mixing a little glaze with it. But if you were to ‘pat too | much, the purée then would no longer retain its green colour; neither must you let it boil, for it will lose its green colour. . The purée of dry pease is made as follows. Stew the pease with a large piece of bacon, the breast part, a few carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley and green onions, a’ little thyme, and bay leaves, and some cold water. Let them boil four hours. When quite done, pound them in a mortar, and then rub them through a tammy, with the . liquor they have’ been boiling in. Let it be properly a1 seasoned, and a short time before you send up, pour ina verd de persil, or verd d’épinards, to make it green. No. 48. —Purée of Chesnuis. TAKE some fine new chesnuts ; slit the peel with your knife, and put a little butter into a frying-pan. - Fry the chesnuts till the peal comes off; then boil them ina little consommé and sugar. When done, add four or six spoon- fuls of Espagnole, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to get thick. No, 49.—Les Nouilles. _ Nouilles are nothing but.a French paste, which the cooks’ prepare themselves. Lay flat on your table, or dresser, half a dozen spoonfuls of flour; make a hole in the middle, and. put in a small pinch of salt, a little water to melt the salt, the yolks of three eggs, a lump of butter of the size of a walnut ; mix the whole well, flatten the paste with a roller, about one line thick, cut it into slices of about an inch broad, and next cut your nouilles nearly as thick. Blanch them in boiling water to take off the flour that sticks around, and when they are blanched, drain them and let them cool, — that they may not stick together. Put them to boil in some good consommé. When done enough, drain them, and put them into whatever sauce you may fancy, either a blanquette, an Allemande, or a velouté. If they are to be served with a fowl, use velouté; and Parmesan cheese, if served for an entremét. But if for soup, serve them in the broth in which they were boiled. This soup is very good with Parmesan cheese; have the cheese scraped, and serve it separately in a plate. No. 50.—The Macédoine, Tuis sauce can never be good but in the spring season, as green. pease, asparagus, French beans, and artichoke- 22 bottoms, are indispensably requisite, besides cartots, turnips, _ heads of celery, and small cauliflower sprouts. As it is. very. difficult to procure those various vegetables and roots at the same time of the year, you must contrive to do your best, and put as many as you can procure. Cut some carrots in the shape either of olives, of balls, or small thin corks. Blanch them in a little water, then set them to stew with a little sugar and a few spoonfuls of consommé, over a large fire, that they may glaze without breaking. Stew the turnips in the like manner, but separately. Mind that the _ glaze of your roots be not made too high in colour. The other vegetables are to be boiled in salt and water. Lay them on a clean towel to drain; mix them with the carrots and turnips, and three spoonfuls of béchamel. Toss them gently, not to destroy the shape of the ingredients. If you are short of other vegetables, you may use cucumbers and mushrooms; be cautious however in using them, as they would make the sauce too thin, if you did not pay particular attention. pane No. 51.—Sauce d’ Altelets *. Take a spoonful of fine herbs, such as mushrooms, parsley, shalots, and a little butter, which fry slightly in a stew-pan. When the herbs begin to fry, without however being too dry, singez with a little flour, and moisten with broth or consommé. Reduce over a large fire, without skimming off the fat. Season with pepper and salt. When the sauce begins to thicken, take it off the fire. Then throw in the yolks of two, or three eggs, well beaten: keep stirring, and pour. the sauce over whatever it may be intended for. * This sauce is generally used. to stick the crumbs of bread round whatever you may wish to put in crumb, instead of butter. It is made use of for attelets of palates of beef, sweetbreads, fillets of rabbits, &e. &c, 23 No. 52.—Sauce for Sturgeon. Wz call sauce d’esturgeona marinade, that which has served either to baste the sturgeon whilst roasting, or serves as a sauce when baked. Take part of this marinade, which reduce with some other sauces either brown or white, and when it begins to get thick, put ina good lump of butter kneaded with flour, a little glaze, some essence of anchovies, and the juice ofa lemon. Mind, do not put too much salt, as a very little is required when you use anchovies, Besides, you are always at liberty to add amt if required, Mi 53 Red Sauce Cardinal. _Repuce some sauce tournée with a few pry of consommé of fowls.. When the sauce is sufficiently done, take a-butter of craw-fish* which throw in. Work it well, with a small lump of fresh butter, to prevent the other butter from turning to oil. Give it a good seasoning, and add to it the juice of'a lemon. No. 54.—Lobster Suuce. A\ HEN lobster is indispensable for this sauce.. Put some of the spawn of the fish into a mortar, to be pounded very fine; add to it a small bit of butter. When very fine, rub it through a hair sieve, and cover it till wanted. Break the lobster with great care, cut all the flesh into dice, but not too small; dilute some of the red spawn in some melted butter, two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of double cream, and mix it all well before the meat is put to it, as the meat must * Butter of craw-fish :—In England they use the spawn of lobster a it should be well pounded. es | retain its dice-like form. Do not let this sauce boil. It must be very red. | | No. 55.—Sauce @ la Lucullus. _. LucuLius was one of the most renowned epicures of ancient Rome; it is very natural of course to assign the _ name of a man who has. brought the art of cookery into so high a repute, to a sauce which requires so much pains, attention, and science for its production, and which can only be sent up to the table of a wealthy and true con~ noisseur. After having worked the fillets, as indicated at the entrées, you have the legs and loins left to make the sauce, which is to be proceeded in as follows. Put into a small stew-pan a few slices of ham, about one pound or two of veal, and the legs and rump of a partridge on the top of the former, moisten with about a wine glass of good con- sommé, put the whole on a slow fire, in order to sweat it through; thrust your knife into the partridge, if no blood comes, moisten with boiling consommé, enough to cover the “meat; season with a bundle of parsley and green onions, a few blades of mace, one clove, a little thyme, half a bay og a leaf, four or five allspice, the trimmings of truffles and mushrooms ; let your consommeé boil till the partridge is well done, then:strain through a silk sieve; reduce the consommé to a very light glaze. Then take a sufficient quantity of velouté, and mix a spoonful of glaze of game with it; but as this glaze would make the sauce of a brown colour, you must have a few spoonfuls of thick cream to mix with it. You must have for your sauté, some truffles cut into the size of apenny. Put them separately into clarified reas with a little salt. When you are going to send up the dinner, sautez or fry gently the truffles, and when done drain the butter off: put them separately into a small stew-pan with a little essence 25 of game and truffles. As you are to mask those parts only which are not decorated, take up the fillets and dip them into the sauce, but no deeper than the part which you have glazed slightly, in order to render the truffles blacker. When you have dished a large fillet and a small one alter- nately, you mask the filets mignons with the remainder of the sauce, and put in the middle the truffles, cut to the size ‘of a penny, which have been laying in a sauce like that which has been us sed for the fillets*. neN06.<2Velonida new Meihod: As it is not customary in England, as it is in France, to allow a principal cook six assistants. or deputies, for half a dozen or even ten entrées, I have thought it incumbent on me to abridge, to the best of my abilities, the various pre- parations of sauces, &c. put into a stew-pan, a knuckle of veal, some slices of ham, four or five pounds of beef, the legs and ) loin of a fowl, and all the trimmings of meat or game that - you have, and moisten with boiled water, sufficient to cover — half the meat; make it sweat gently on a slow fire, till the meat is done through ; this you can ascertain by thrusting your knife into it; if no blood flows, it is then time to — moisten with boiled water, enough to cover all the meat ; : then season with a bundle of parsley and green onions, a clove, half a bay leaf, some thyme, a little salt, and some trimmings of mushrooms. When the sauce has. boiled long enough to let the knuckle be well done, skim off all the fat, strain it through a silk sieve, and reduce this consommé till it is nearly a glaze; next take four spoonfuls of very fine flour, dilute it with three pints of very good cream, in a stew-pan big enough to contain the cream, * When this sauce is made with great care, it is certainly the ne plus wide of the art. + Réduce, means to boil down till reduced. . 26 consommé, flour, &c.; boil the flour and cream ona slow fire. When it boils, pour to it the consommé, and continue to boil it on a slow fire if the sauce be thick, but ona quick fire if the sauce be thin, in order to thicken it. Season with salt, but put no pepper. No white sauce admits pepper, except when you introduce into it something chopped fine, pepper appearing like dust should therefore be avoided; this sauce should be very thick. Put it into a white bason through a tammy, and keep it in the larder out of the dust. This sauce is the fundamental stone, if I may use the expression, of all sorts of little sauces; especially in Eng- land, where white sauces are preferred. On this account I have relinquished the former method. In summer time I was unable to procure any butter fit for use. I accordingly . was forced to do without, and discovered that my sauce was the better for it. You must always keep this sauce very thick, as you may thin it whenever you please, either with consommé, or with cream. If it were too thin, it could not be used for so many purposes. No. 57.—Common Rémoulade, and Green Rémoulade, Take two or four eggs, boil them hard, then pound the yolks in a mortar, add a spoonful of mustard, pepper and salt, three spoonfuls of oil, one spoonful of vinegar, and break the yolk of a raw egg into it, to prevent the rémoulade from curdling; rab it through a hair sieve, and serve it up. i a The rémoulade verte is the same as the other, only you have a ravigotte, composed of chervil, burnet, tarragon, and parsley. Pound all these, and rub the rémoulade and ravigotie, in the state of a purée, through a tammy. Throw a little verd de persil into the rémoulade, to make it look quite green. Add likewise a little Cayenne pepper. If approved of, you may put a few chopt shalots. Should 27 you want more sauce, double the quantity of your it- gredients. No. 58, — Mayonnaise, TaKE three spoonfuls of Allemande, b¢ on aspic, and two of oil. “Add alittle tarragon vinegar that has not boiled, some pepper and salt, and chopped ravigotte, or some chopped parsley only.’ Then put in the members of fowl, or fillets of soles, &c. The mayonnaise must be put into ice; but the members must not be put into the sauce till it begins to freeze. Dish up the meat or fish, cover it with the sauce before it be quite frozen, and garnish the dish with what- ever you think proper, as beet-root, jelly, nasturtiums, &e. No. 59 —Egg Sauce. ore two hard eggs, and throw them into melted butter, and serve up. No. 60.—Verd d’Epinards, or Green Extract of Spinach. Pick and wash two large handfuls of spinach ; pound them in a mortar to extract all thejuice. Then squeeze the spinach through a tammy, and pour your juice into a small stew-pan, which put au bain marie*, that it may not boi oF ; a a Watch it close, as soon as it is poached lay it in a silk sieve” ef to drain, and when all the water is drained, use the verd, to green whatever may be required. we No. 61.—Verd de Persil. THE same operation as above. Parsley is a necessary ingredient in many sauces, it gives them an agreeable flavour. The verd d’épinards is without savour, so that it * See Bain marie, page 18, 28 may be used for entremets; but the verd de persil j is intend= ed for entrées and sauces. | : No. 62.—Sauce & la Pompadour. Fry or sweat white a few chopt mushrooms and shalots in a little butter. When well melted add to them six spoon- _ - fuls of sauce tournée, and two spoonfuls of consommé. Stew them for three quarters of an hour on the corner of the stove, and skim off the fat: you must keep your sauce ra- ther thin; then throw in a thickening made of the yolks of | three eggs. Moisten with a spoonful or twoof cream; add a little pepper and salt; work your sauce well. When it is done, have a little parsley chopt very fine, blanch it, drain it, and let it cool, that it may lock quite green; mix it with the sauce, and serve up. A little lemon juice may not be amiss, but be aware that acids will always alter the taste of good sauces to their disadvantage, except when highly seasoned. No. 63.—La Dusselle. ~ Tuts sauce is only used for panures* and broilings. Put a little butter into a stew-pan with an equal quantity of -rasped bacon, together with some fine herbs, parsley, sha- lots, mushrooms, pepper and salt, and stew them on a slow fire. When the fine herbs are done, beat the yolks of four . eggs, moisten with the juice of a lemon, and pour that thickening into the dusselle. Mind your fine herbs must not be too much done, for in that case the eggs would not thicken the sauce. . The dusselle is generally used. for cot- teletes a la Mamienon; byvertheeateg and fat liver caisses, &e.. Ke, * I call paxures, every thing that has crumbs of bread over it. oy . No. 64.—Les Pointes d’ Asperges. Pick some nice asparagus, not however of the finest, but all - of an equal size. Cut off the tops only, about an inch long, and blanch them in water witha little salt, but do not boilthem too much. Then put them with whatever you choose, but: only at the last moment, and ‘that for two different reasons; - the first, because they are liable to turn yellow; the other, because they would give a bitter taste to the sauce. If you wish to serve any thing up with asparagus tops, you must put them into a little velowté, or Allemande. They do not look well in a brown sauce. For this reason they are seen in Macedoines, Chartreuses, pdtés de legumes, vol au vents, &c. If intended for soups, never put them in but at the moment you send up. No, 65.—L’Haricot brun. . .* Cur some turnips into the shape of heads of garlic, wash them clean, and stew them with a nice Espagnole, without frying them in butter, as many persons do. If your sauce be of a fine brown colour, the turnips will acquire the same, Add a little sugar. With regard to salt, it is needless to. say that not a single dish, or sauce, can be prepared without it Oo When you have no Espagnole sauce, take the trimmings of the chops of which you intend to make your haricot, and a put them into a stew-pan with carrots, turnips, an onion, little thyme, and a bay leaf; moisten with a ladle of broth, let it all sweat till the broth is reduced to a glaze of a good colour; then moisten with some boiling water ; season with a bunch of parsley and green onions; let it boil for an hour, and strain it through a sieve. Fry the turnips of a good colour, dust them with a spoonful of flour, and moisten with the liquor; skim off all the fat, and cover the chops with the sauce. | 30 No, 66.—L’ Haricot vierge. Cur small turnips into the shape either of corks, or Olives, or into any other shape according to your fancy. Blanch them with one single boil in water; drain them; next stew them with a little sugar, and two spoonfuls of good con- sommé. Mind they must stew over a large fire, that they may be reduced speedily, for otherwise they would be too much done. When they are @ glace, or reduced, take them off the fire. Pour in three or four spoonfuls of velouté, ac- cording to the new method. If the sauce be too thick, put to it a spoonful of thick cream; do not forget a little salt. This sauce must always bé white, and is generally required with glazed articles, which have a sufficient degree of sub- stance. No. 67.—Hollandoise verte, or Green Dutch Sauce. TAKE a couple, or four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, re- duced with a little consommé. Give a good seasoning to it; add a verd de persil, and work the sauce well. When you send up, (and not before), add a little lemon j juice, for | - other wise the sauce would turn yellow. Na. 68.— Dutch Sauce. 2 ae Por into a stew-pan a tea spoonful of fois four spoons Wis fulso “elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a little salt. Put it on the fire, and keep continually stirring it. When it has acquired thickness enough, work it well; that you may refine it. If it should not be curdled, you have no occasion to strain it _ through a tammy 5 season well, and serve up. a eT ‘31 No. 69.—Satice Blanche, or French melted Butter. Pur into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a spoonful of flour, a little salt, half a gill or glass of water, half a spoonfal of white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg. Put it on the fire; let it thicken, but do not allow it to boil, for fear it should taste of the flour. Serve up. ~ Melted Butter. English manner.—Put into a stew-pan a little flour, a small quantity of water, and a little butter: when the butter is melted, and the sauce quite thick, with- out aaving boiled, serve up. No. 70.—Ragott a la Financiere. You must procure cock’s combs, cock’s kidneys, fat livers, and a few fowls’ eggs. The combs are to be scalded in the following manner. Put the whole of them into a towel, with a handful of salt that has not been pounded. _ Then lay hold of*the four corners of the towel, and ete part containing the cock’s comb into boiling hot vy ate Leave it in ssh a minute, and then take it out, and rab ‘the bee “4 the pitas and open your towel; if the combs be not shit t sufficiently, dip them into the boiling water a second ti but mind they do not get too firm, because that them from whitening. When they are well skinne scalded, pare the little black points, that the blood may be extracted. Next put them into a pint of water, and lay them on the corner of your stove for two hours; in which there must be but a very little fire. Then blanch them, and put them into a little blanc, by. which is meant butter, salt, water, and a slice of lemon. Try them frequently, lest they be too much done. The kidneys are not to boil, for then 32. they would break. The eggs are to bot a little, in order that the first skin may come off. This being done, throw the whole into the blanc. As soon as the combs are. done, have ready a nice Espagnole reduced, with large mushrooms ~ turned, and some small quenelles, which have been poached Eo oat Mix together, and drain the ragotte, the combs, | . the kidneys, and the eggs. Put the whole into the sauce ‘ ” ewitl the quenelles; stir gently, not to break the latter; : season well, and use it as occasion may require. | | No. 7) —La Godard. Tuis is the same ragott as the fncwieitrés shy it serves — to garnish a surloin of beef. You then add pigeons gautiers, and larded sweetbreads; keep your sauce thin, as you have nothing to mask.* No. 72.—La Chambord. Tus is a ragodt like the financiére, with this difference, that you must first reduce a pint of Madeira wine, and mix it, with the Espagnole. Add to the above garnish, soft rows _ p, some good sized craw-fish, and two spoonfuls of . a of anchovies The ques are to bg poached ina : nt ‘one with the farce, which, has been levelled. all recta * with a knife dipped into boiling water. With the other spoon, which is lying also in boiling hot water, take the -quenelle‘out, and put it into.a buttered stew-pan. When you have thus marked your quenelles, pour some boiling water into the stew-pan, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. A small quantity of salt is: required in the water. Some people poach the quenelles in broth. In my opinion” it is wasting the broth to no purpose. * Mask, signifies to cover; 5 WHEN you don’t mean to mask, the sauce must be thinner. 30 | No. 73.—Salmz Sauce al’ Espagnole. Cur four shalots, and a carrot into large dice, some pars- ley roots, a few bits of ham, a clove, two or three leaves of mace, the quarter of a bay leaf, a little thyme, and a small bit of butter. Put the whole into a stew-pan over a gentle — fire ; let it fry till you perceive the stew-pan is coloured all round, Then moisten with half a pint of Madeira wine, and a very small Jump of sugar. Let it reduce to one half. Put in six spoonfuls of Espagnole and the trimmings of your partridges. Let them stew for an hour on the corner of the stove. Skim the fat off, taste whether your sauce be seasoned enough; Strain it over the members, make it hot without boiling; dish the salm?, and reduce the sauce, which strain through a tammy. Then cover the salmi, with ' the sauce. No, 74.— Butter of Crawfish. Pounp the shells and lesser claws, &c. in a mortar with _ a good lump of. fresh butter, till made into a paste. Put this into a small stew-pan au bain marie. When it is quit hot, strain it through a tammy over a tureen, or earthen pan, containing cold water. The butter will rise on the surface. ‘Takeit when entirely cold, and use it as occasion may require. No. 75.—Butter of Anchovies. To make this butter you must have young anchovies. Take them out of the pickle and wash them well. Take off the bones and head ; then pound them in a mortar with * fresh butter, till very fine; rub this through a hair sieve, o4 No. /6.—Glaze. Glaze is very seldom made on purpose, except on parti- cular occasions. Lay on the fire a stock-pot, with plenty of veal, and a small quantity of beef and ham; moisten with broth; when stewed for a proper time shire it well. The glaze of sweated broth is not so bright. Season the broth with carrots and onions; a large bunch of parsley, and green onions; but no turnips nor celery, for they give a bitter taste. If you should have a grand dinner, and wish to glaze of a nice colour, put more veal into your Espag- nole. The moment it comes to a glaze, put part of it into a small stew-pan, for the purpose of glazing only. The most common glaze is made of remnants of broth, the liquor of braize, or fricandeaux, &c. which are to be re- duced on a brisk fire. If you keep your reduction too long, it will become black and bitter. Always warm your aby au bain marie, that it may not get too brown*. No. 77.—La Sauce Robert. Cur some onions into small dice, fry them of a fine brown, moisten them with some Espagnole, or singezt, and moisten with some gravy of veal. Skim it, that the sauce may look bright; put in a little pepper and salt, and just before you send up, mix a spoonful of mustard. No. 78.—La Livernoise, Is a Macédoine, which you make with some Espagnole, instead of béchamelle. Reduce some carrots and turnips & glace, then put them into the Espagnole, which must not boil. Mind that the sauce does not taste of the roots. * Bain marie-—See note to No, 42. 4 Singez means, put flour to it with the dredging-box. 30 No. 79.—Le Hochepot. TURN some carrots, and in winter time blanch them. When they are young, that operation may be dispensed with. Boil them in a little broth and sugar; when done reduce the broth, and put the whole into a good Espagnole. Give them a good seasoning, skim the fat off, and serve up. No. 80.—La Polonoise. Take some of the liquor in which a pike has been boiling, Make a little white rowx, moisten with the liquor, and re- duce it over a large fire. Take a pint of thick cream, boil it, and. whilst boiling keep turning it constantly, to prevent a kind of skin from rising. Mix the whole with the sauce, which is to be kept thick. Have ready some small turnips cut into corks or sticks, that have been boiled in a little water with salt and sugar; drain them well; add them to the sauce ; taste whether it be duly seasoned, and mask, or cover the fish: No. 81.—Cucumbers, or Blanquette, CucumBERs are good only when quite young, you must take care, however, that they have not a bitter taste. Those are the best that have a rough shaggy coat, Cucumbers are cooked in various ways, either for sauces or for entre- mets. It is useless to fry them white in clarified butter, (as practised in France). As soon as they have been pared, stew them in a little sauce tournée and sugar, but do not let them stew too long. Lay them in a hair sieve to drain, reduce the liquor in which they have been stewing, and thicken it with the yolks of four eggs. Do not put the cucumbers into the sauce till you are going to send up, for the sauce would get too thin. D2 36 No. 82,.—Essence of Cucumbers. Pex, your cucumbers, as above, and. keep the parings, which are to be made into a purée with a little butter. When entirely melted, drain the butter, and moisten with the sauce tournée, in which you have stewed the cucumbers, and which have been drained upon a hair sieve, and co- vered with around of paper. Reduce this purée to a state of great consistence, and mix with it four large spoonfuls of velouté. You must also puta little sugar when you stew the cucumbers in the sauce tournée. After having thrown in the vélouté, and reduced it, strain the purée through a fammy. Putin the scollops, and toss them in the sauce, If the sauce should happer not to be white enough, pour one or two spoonfuls of thick cream into it. A short time before you send up, throw the cucumbers into the sauce. Serve hot, and well seasoned. This entrée is in high estimation amongst the epicures, but it requires the greatest attention, or it will turn out to be but a very indifferent dish. No. 83.—Green Pease in White Sauce. You must procure some very young pease. Do not take those which have a kind of kernel, for they are liable to break, and thicken the sauce. Put the pease into an ear- then pan, with a small bit of butter, and plenty of fresh water. Handle and shake the pease well in the water, and then drain and put them to sweat on a little stove, with a small — bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, pour in, four or six spoonfuls of sauce tournée ; reduce it over a large fire, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and send it up. If the sauce be intended to mask or cover the entrées, it must be kept thicker. 37 No, 84.—Green Pease a I’ Espagnole. Prepare as above; the only difference lies in using Es- pagnole instead of sauce tournée. Be particular in skim- | ming the fat before you reduce the sauce. Whenever there are agi in a sauce, = must always put a little ed is ) : No. 85.—Les Pois au Lard, or Pease and Bacon. Cur about a pound of bacon, (the breast part), fat and lean, into square pieces of about an inch; which boil in water for about half an hour to take off the salt, drain them, and fry them till they are quite brown. Then throw them among the pease, that you have previously handled i in butter, as above, Let them sweat with a bunch of parsley and green onions, When well sweated, take the parsley out and put in a spoonful of Espagnole, with a little sugar and salt. There must be very little sauce, if intended for pois au lard only; but if intended for sauce it must be thinner. No. 86.—La Sauce au pauvre Homme, or Poor Man’s. Sauce. . _Tais sauce is generally sent up with young roasted. tur- kies. Chopa few shalots very fine, and mix them with alittle pepper, salt, vinegar and water, and serve it ina boat. : No. 87.—Love-Apples Sauce. MELT in a stew-pan a dozen of love-apples, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove and a little thyme, and when melted, rub them through a tammy. With this purée mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole, a little salt and pepper. Boil it for twenty minutes, and serve up, 38 No, 88.— Sauce & la Bigarade, or Bitter Orange Sauce. ‘Cut off the thin rind only, and quite equally, ‘of two bitter oranges. Blanch it.. Have ready a rich Espagnole reduced, and throw the rind, with a small bit of sugar into it, and season it well. When you are going to send up, add the juice of one of the oranges and a little lemon. The sauce must be made strong, on account of the acids. No. 89.—Za Sauce au Céleri. Cur off the stalks of a dozen heads of celery. Pare all the heads; and let them be well washed. Blanch them. Stew them in a blanc, with some beef suet, some fat of bacon, a small bit of butter, a little salt, and some lemon jaice. When they are done, drain them well, cut them about an inch in length, and put them into some velouté, according to the new method, (Vide No. 56). This sauce is not to be too highly seasoned, but kept thick for the purpose of masking. No. 90.— The Pascaline. Tis sauce is most particularly sent up with lamb of mutton trotters. Make a white Italienne, (Vide No. 22), keep it rather thin. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs mixed with the juice of alemon. A short time before you send it up, throw in a little chopt parsley that has been blanched, ~ ; No. 91.—Sauce a? Aurore. Pounp the spawn of a lobster. with a little butter, and strain it through a hair sieve. Take the straining, and mix it with a sauce tournée reduced, and the juice of a 39 lemon. This sauce must be: highly seasoned with pepper and salt, &c. It is generally sent up with mies of trout, or fillets of soles. No. 92.— The Toulouse. a an \Blewiade ready, (Vide No. 20), and rather thick. | Throw into it a ragoiwt of cock’s combs, ‘kidneys, fat livers, the choicest mushrooms, small quenelles, &c. No. 93.—La Wasterfisch. Wuen you have boiled the perch with roots of parsley, a few slices of onions, as many shreds of parsley, and some pep- per and salt, drain through a silk sieve part of the seasoning which has been reduced, with four spoonfuls of velouté or bé- chamelle. Then take some roots of parsley and some car- rots, cut in the:same manner as for the ,julienne, and let them stew with a little pepper and salt, and water. Drain them and throw them into the sauce. You must mix a little chopt and blanched parsley with this sauce, and a small bit of butter, some pepper and salt, and a very little lemon. Mask the perch, or fillets of soles with it. No, 94,—Oyster Sauce, Be careful in opening your oysters to preserve the liquor. Put them into a stew-pan over a stove ona sharp fire. When they are quite white and firm, take them out of the water with a spoon, and drain them on a hair sieve; then pour off the liquor gently into another vessel, in order to have it quite clear, Put a small bit of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of flour, fry it over a small fire for a few minutes; dilute it with the oyster liquor; add to it two spoonfuls of milk; let’ it boil till the flour is quite : done, then add the oysters, after having taken off the > 40 beards. Season with a little salt, and one spoonful of es- sence of anchovies. No. 95 sit fealiei with Truffles. CHoP some nice black truffles. Ei hi iy in a ‘little consommé, and mix them with the Brown Italian Sauce, (Vide No. 23). If you should have no Jtalienne ready, stew them for half an hour in an Espagnole only. Let this sauce be kept thin and highly seasoned, No. 96.—La Manselle*. Maxe a salmi as indicated above, with this difference, that you pound all the parings and bones, &c. which you put into the sauce when it is done. Rub this purée through a ‘tammy, and pour it over the members of game or fowls. This sauce is to be kept hot, without boiling, ontiv's: it will curdle. No, 97.—Sauce a la Maréchaile, Take a handful of green tarragon, and boil it for ten minutes in four spoonfuls of white vinegar. Putin a very small lump of sugar with a little salt. When the vinegar is half reduced, pour in four large spoonfuls of sauce tournée — reduced, and give it one single boil. Strain your, sauce through a tammy, and add to it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Work your sauce well, and pour it over the meat or fish, quite hot. This sauce is to be kept rather thick, that it may adhere either to the meat or fish. | * This sort of salmé is generally used for woodcocks or eh if requisite. ee eee ae » ony f. oo : 2 er at 41 Observations relative io the Sauces. (PE the number of sauces that acs “eth re Sy many may be found that are not to be used. But I thought . it incumbent upon me to introduce them all, for fear of in- curring censure. If four entrées only are to be sent up to table, it would be ridiculous to make preparations that would answer the purpose of a grand dinner. — Instead then of using a great many sorts of broth, suage, coulis, &c, — merely prepare a stock-pot the preceding day, if you have leisure, with twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, and ahen; do not season with too much vegetable. As this is to be used for sauces, the vegetable would give a dese . rib, to, some of them when reduced. When you are to send up. a dinner of six or eight peeing with a view of not carrying the expence to an ex- treme, | take a nice rump of beef, and about twelve pounds of buttock, a leg and knuckle of veal, and as there must be no waste, the rump is used to make a remove; make gre- nadins, or fricandeau, or quenelles, with the notx of veal. » By this means the expence is reduced. On the preceding evening put into a stock-pot twelve pounds of beef, with the — bones and trimmings of the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a few other parings, if youhave any. Set the pot to skim, and season it with two large onions, one of which is to be stuck with’ four cloves, three carrots, four large leeks, as many turnips, a head of celery, a little salt, and leave the whole to stew on a slow fire for five hours. Strain the broth through a silk sieve, and skim the fat; for if the broth of any description be not thus skimmed, it will. turn sour in _ the course of the night. On the next day mark your sauces with this broth; and the day on which you are to serve the dinner, make another stock-pot with the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a hen, seasoned in the same manner as above, This broth is used for potages, and to moisten the braizes. 42. Mark* in a stew-pan some thin slices of ham, and a few slices of veal, moistened with some of the broth, which re- duce to a glaze. When it begins to thicken, so as to stick, put the stew-pan on a very slow fire, in order that the glaze may get a good colour without burning; then moisten with the broth, to which you add a bunch of parsley and green onions, and a few mushrooms ; let them stew for an hour. Next make a roux, and moisten it with part of the gravy of veal; and keep some of it for the gravy of the roasts; skim all the grease off, and use it when occasion may require. For the white sauces, put some slices of ham in the stew- pan with a few pieces of veal, the bones and remnants of fowl, which moisten with the same broth you have used for the coulis, or Espagnole. When the meat is sweated through, cover it entirely with boiling hot broth, season with a bunch of parsley and green onions and a few mushrooms, and stew the whole for an hour and a half; skim off the fat. This consommé is used to make either the velouté, No. 56, or la sauce tournée, which is the key to all other thick sauces, &c. The stock-pot must be put on the fire‘at an early hour, The rump of beef must be kept hot. Reduce to glaze the broth that you have left after having made every article. This glaze may serve either to strengthen or to glaze. If you are frequently set to work, you must always have a little glaze ready. By this means you have no occasion to reduce your liquor till the following day, and it will serve for the morrow. * Mark, or prepare. rm — Le gn ee ee ee ee Se ee a Sos sen a ghia - ~ — be ee 43 CHAP. II. POTAGES AND SOUPS. No. 1.—Soupe de Santé, or au Naturel. Take some broth well skimmed, and the fat taken off, Take thin slices of crust of bread cut round, of the size of a ° shilling. Soak them separately in a little broth. As you are going to serve up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the look of the broth, and make it thick; add some of the vegetables that have been boiled in the broth. ‘No. 2.—Potage consommé of Fowl. TakE some consommé of fowl, and clarify it, after having mixed with it some gravy of veal, to give ita good colour. Prepare the bread as above. No, 3.—Potage @ la Clermont. TAKE some good broth, mixed with a little gravy of veal, in order to give a nice brown colour to the broth. Takea dozen of small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them in clarified butter. When they are of a fine colour, drain them on a sieve, throw them into a little broth made hot, to rid them of the butter that might remain; then mix them with the clarified broth, and let them boil for half an hour, Put in thin bits of bread, as in No. 1, and some salt. Remember that the bread would spoil the look of the broth, if put in whilst the latter is boiling. ‘ pie a 44 No. 4.—Potage & la Julienne. TAKE some carrots and turnips, and turn them ribband like, a few heads of celery, some leeks and onions, and cut them all into fillets thus: m7 Then take about two ounces of butter and lay it at the bottom of a stew-pan, and — the roots over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring gently; moisten them with broth and gravy of veal, let them boil on the corner of the stove; skim all the - fat off, put in a little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the vegetables: you may in summer time add green pease, as- paragus-tops, French beans, some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter time the taste of the vegetables being too strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after stew them i in the broth: if they were fried in butter, their taste would” also be too strong. Bread as above. No. 5.—The Julienne, with consommé of Fowl. ‘Tux same as above, only you moisten it with consommé of fowl, and put in, the back of a roasted chicken, which stew with the roots, and send up with the bread as above, No. 6.—Cressi Soup. Take the red part of eight carrots, two turnips, the white of four leeks, two onions, three heads of celery, all washed very clean. Mince the whole small, put a bit of fresh but- ter at the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots over it; put it on a slow fire. Let it sweat a long while, and stir it fre- quently; when fried enough to be rubbed through a tammy, _add a small crust of bread, moistened with some broth; let — the whole boil gently. When done, skim all the fat. off, and rub the whole through a tammy. Put it to boil on the “corner of the stove in order to skim off all the grease, and : \ 45 ~ the oil of the vegetables: ; then cut some crumbs of bread into dice, fry it in butter till of a good colour, and put it a the teat gti you send up. sicilalic cnis o No. 7.—Soupe ustanobes | Take some carrots, the reddest that are to ‘8: met as scrape them well; wash them clean; then take off the outside till you come to the middle part. Sweat it in about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, on a-very slow fire. When the carrots are soft enough, put in a crust of bread well rasped, and moistened with some good broth. Let the whole boil for about an hour, and rub it through a tammy, then pour a little more broth in, that it may boil again. Skim it; when you have taken off the fat, it will be of a ‘reddish ae. Put i in some bits of soft bread cut into | dice, that have been fried i in butter till they are of a light brown: No. 8.—La Brunoise*. Tak some carrots, turnips, &c. cut them into dice, and in summer time fry them in butter; but in the winter season blanch them. When fried without having lost their original colour, moisten them with rich broth, seasoned with salt and a little sugar, and let the whole boil for about an hour. You may add green pease, asparagus-tops, &c. skim off the fat, and put bits of crust of bread, the same as No. 1, soaked separately in broth. ‘These you put in only at the moment of serving up, that the bread may not crumble. . No. 9.—Soupe a I’ Allemande. ! : Make a pdte & nouilles (see pdte & nouilles) cut into dice, blanch and drain it, and then let it cool. Boil them * This soup has the same flavour as the Julienne, the only difference is ‘in the shape of the vegetables. 46. in rich broth. When thoroughly done, take them out of the broth, and throw them into a good rich consommé of fowl well clarified. When you take them out of the liquor in which they have boiled, you must use a skimmer, and drain them in a clean napkin, then put them into the con- sommé, and serve up. : | No. 10.—Soupe a la Condé. Take about a pint of red beans, well washed, let them » soak in soft water for about a couple of hours: then put them into a small pan with a pound of the breast part of bacon, a knuckle of veal, and the legs.and back of a roasted fowl, if you have any such thing by you. Put the whole together with an onion stuck with two cloves, a carrot, and a couple of leeks. Moisten with soft cold water, and let the beans boil till they are quite soft. Then take the beans, pound them, and rub them through a sieve; moisten with — the liquor sufficiently thin to admit the fat being skimmed off. Slices of bread prepared, as in No. 6. No. 11.—Soup a la Faubonne. Paupare the vegetables and roots, as in No.6. Mince some cabbage lettuce and sorrel, and sweat them separately ; throw them into the soup when you have skimmed off the fat. Slices of bread as above. No. 12.—Soupe a la Carmeliie. Takk some lentils @ la reine, which prepare as the beans above: when stewed, rub them through a tammy; moisten the purée with a little gravy of veal, and rich broth. When well skimmed throw in the bread. Send up rather thin, as it is liable to thicken when getting cold*. * This soup is very good to make when you have soupe @ Ia reine left ; ' mixt with it, it is excellent, . Oe ee ee eee oe | } 47 >. No. 13.—Purée of Green Pease. ‘Taxes three pints of large pease of a nice green colour, sweat them with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a handful of parsley and green onions over a slow fire, till they be thoroughly stewed, then rub them through a tammy, and pour over the purée some very good broth. Leave it on the corner of the stove, for if it were to boil, the pease would lose their green colour, Just at the mo- ment of sending up, put in square slices of bread nicely fried. No. 14.—The same, made very green, | Take three pints of large green pease, which mix with a little butter in two quarts of water, then drain the water from them, and add a large handful of parsley and young green onions : let it sweat over a slow fire till quite soft. Pound | the whole and rub it through a tammy, moistening at the same time with strong broth. Season with sugar, salt, &c. Let it merely be made hot. The bread, cut into squares, is to be imbued separately with a little broth. No. 15.—Macaroni with consomme. TAKE a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, and boil it in water and alittle butter, till it is nearly done. Strain it well, and put into a rich consommé to boil.. Let it be well done; rasp some Parmesan cheese, which send up separately in a plate. No. 16,—Lazagnes au consommé, or Flat Macaroni. TakE Naples Lazagnes; boil them as the macaroni, (Vide No. 15), and serve up in the same manner, with cheese in a separate plate. Maat ee ee) a eee ren Waal hy +o gh ES Vee a See 48 No. 17.—Rice Soup. | _Taxe half a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice, picked - elean, and washed in two or three different waters, till no. smell or dirt remain. Blanch it in boiling water, and. drain it. Then take some rich broth, season it well, throw the rice in and let it boil, but not soas to be too much done, for then it breaks and does not look well. No. 18.—Rice with different sorts of purée. THE rice is to be prepared as above: only mix it with the purée you have chosen an hour before you send up, in order that the rice may retain the taste and colour of the ‘vegetables. The purées intended for soups are not to be so thick as those that are intended for sauces. ‘Those that are most generally used are, purée of carrots, turnips, celery, white beans, red ditto, lentils, green pease, the cressi, &c. the mode of proceeding is the same, with all the various kinds of purée; they only differ in the taste and colour of the particular vegetable used. All the various vegetables being mixed together, take the name of cressi. When used separately, each retains its own respective appellation, and is made as at No. 6, p. 44. No. 19.—Vermicelli Soup. For eight people take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which blanch in boiling water to take off the taste of dust, — Strain it and throw it into some broth that is boiling, — otherwise the vermicelli would stick together, and could not be diluted unless crumbled into a thousand pieces. All purées used as above. Mind, the vermicelli must be boiled in broth before you mix it with any of the purée. PS Le ee 49 No. -20.—Itglian Pastes. ‘Take eatin pastes, and prepare them as ‘above, (Wide No. a and as follows, (Vide No, 21). oe ay No. 21.—Vermicelli & la Reine. gant os. in boiling water, drain it; and throw it into some rich consommé well seasoned. When done, a short time before you send it up thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done, which would be the case if it remained on the corner of the stove. 7 - No. 22,— ia Puri Broth, Is made with about a dozen of turnips, peeled and cut Gnto slices. Blanch them for a short time in water; drain them, and put them with a knuckle of veal, a small piece of beef, and the half of a hen into a stew-pan; and pour some rich boiling broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for about two hours. Then strain it through a double. silk sieve, and use it with rice, vermicelli, &c. &c. No. 23.—Poiage a la Reine: anew Method. For twelve people take three fat chickens or pullets, _ which are generally cheaper and better than fowls: skin them, take out the lungs, wash them clean, and mark them in a pan with a bunch of parsley only; moisten.the whole with good. boiling broth: let it stew for an hour, then take out the chickens: soak the crumb of two penny loaves in the broth; take off the flesh of the chickens, and pound it with the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread which has been sufficiently soaked in the broth. Rub E 50 the whole through a tammy; then put a quart of cream on the fire, and keep it stirring continually till it boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not liable tc curdle as when the other method is used, and it tastes more of the chickens. If you think proper to add either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it be stewed in broth beforehand, and pour it into the soup only when quite done. -When you have a great dinner, and © fowls are very dear, you must use the fillets for entrées, and _ make the soup with the legs only; the soup is as good, but not quite so white, as when made with the fillets, No. 24.—Semolina with Consommé. Bot some consommé and throw the semolina into it. If you are inclined to mix a purée with it, keep the semolina thinner. You may use any purée you please, the same as with rice, No. 18. No. 25.—Cream of Rice. Tuis is flour of rice, which you make yourself in the fol- lowing manner. ‘Take a pound of rice, well washed in dif- ferent waters, and drained and wiped with a clean towel CS ee Ee a Let it get quite dry; then pound and shake it through a — sieve. ‘Take one or two spoonfuls of this flour, and dilute it with broth, rather cold than hot. All this time you have some broth on the fire; throw the flour of rice thus diluted into the broth, and keep stirring till you find the soup is not too thick and may boil without the rice burning. This same kind of rice flour, may serve for soufflés of the second course, | . | No. 26.—The Garbure, with Brown Bread. Tan’ a’ knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet, a knuckle of veal, and about six pounds of flank of beef, which put into ee f | 51 a pan, with an onion stuck with two cloves, a few carrots, &c. pour over the above two ladles of broth, and let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When the meat is done through ~ the middle, cover it entirely with boiling broth, and let the whole stew for three hours. Then take one or more cab- bages, which are to be washed clean and blanched. Braize them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with the liquor in which the sweating has been made, strained through a silk sieve. You must observe, that if the cab- bages are not made rich and mellow they are good for no- thing. Add to the above, either sausages, bacon, or stewed legs of geese if you have any: mind above all things, that the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup then would not be eatable. When the cabbage and broth are stewed enough, cut very thin slices of rye bread: drain the cabbage in a cloth, so that there be no fat left; then take a large deep silver dish, lay a bed of bread, and over that, one of cab- bage, and moisten them with a little broth; let them grati- ner on a slow fire. When the cabbage and bread are sufi- ciently moistened, lay on six or eight beds more of each, and let it simmer on the stove. Send up with the ham on the middle; the bacon, the legs of geese, and sausages on the borders, and some broth separately. No. 27.—Potage with Cabbage. Take four cabbages, with curling leaves; wash them clean, blanch and braize them with a little seasoning; ob- serving however, that for a soup they are not to be so highly seasoned as for an enirée. Your. soup may be prepared as in No.1. Cut the cabbages into quarters, and put them © into the soup when the latter is in the tureen, This broth is to be prepared plain, and kept clear, as the cabbages, being braized, are very tasty; cut them nicely on the top of the tureen. 52 No. 28.—German Cabbage Soup. TakE a white cabbage, mince and wash it well, and let it sweat on a slow fire in a little butter. When it begins to get tender and to be a little reduced, moisten it with half broth and half gravy of veal very clear; skim off the fat, and . when the soup gets of a fine brown colour, throw in slices of bread cut the size of a penny thus (), and send up. No. 29.—Soupe a la Bonne-Femme ; or good Woman’s Soup. Take two handfuls of sorrel; after having taken off the stalks, put the leaves one above another and mince them. Take the hearts of two or three cabbage-lettuces, which mince likewise. Wash the whole well, then take about two ounces of fresh butter, and put the herbs to melt in a small stock-pot. When so, moisten with broth*, and let it boil for an hour. Skim off the fat, and throw in a little sugar, to take off the acidity of the sorrel. ‘Then thicken . the soup with the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with a little cream. Remember to keep a little broth to soak the bread in, for this could not be done in broth after it is thickened. No. 30.—Poitage aux Nouilles. Take a handful or two of flour, with which mix a little. salt, the yolk of three eggs, a little water, and a small bit of butter. Let this paste be as compact as possible. Spread it very thin on the table, next cut it into small slices as a Julienne; then blanch it in water, drain it, and let it ‘ cool, in order to get rid of the flour, which might spoil the * If you have in the larder, the back and legs of a roast fowl, put them into a stew-pan with a few carrots, turnips, and celery; a little parsley and chervil, &c.; moisten with some good broth; let the whole boil till tho~ roughly done, and skim it well, strain it, and moisten the sorrel with this. tata ie ts ee —— ™ - 53 appearance of the soup. Throw the paste into some rich ~ broth, and let it stew till it is mellow. You may introduce ~ either tape broth, or purée as above. : No. 3] .—Soupe a la Borgosse. pate! sod, although a potage de desserte, had. some ad- mirers even amongst the first epicures. If you should have left in your larder a small quantity of rice soup or pease soup, or good woman’s soup, mix and make them hot, but without boiling, as the thickening would most undoubtedly curdle. Rub the whole through a tammy, and put it into a stew-pan aw bain marie. Then boil some green Windsor beans; when done, skin them, and throw them into the soup; _ when you are going to send up, put in some bits of bread ““eut into dice, fried in butter, and well drained of the butter. No, 32.—Milk Soup, with Almond Laurel. Boi in a quart of milk, a leaf of almond laurel, some sugar, and a little salt. Thicken it with the yolks of six eggs just as you are going to send up. As to the bread, crumb only is used in this instance, which is to be shaped of the size of a penny, and glazed in the oven with. sugar. Lay it in the tureen, and pour the soup over when you send up. No. 33.—Potage au Lait @’ Amande. Bort a quart of milk as above, seasoned with a little salt. The bread as in No. 32. Puta quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and adozen of bitter ones, into hot water, peel them, and pound them ina mortar; moisten with a little milk, to prevent their turning into oil, When suffi- ciently fine, rub them through a tammy, and throw them into the soup instead of a thickening. They must not boil. o4 No. 34.—La Tortue. Turtle Soup. Ir you wish to make turtle soup with less difficulty, cut off the head the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle; this is done by leaning heavy with your knife on the shell of the animal’s back, whilst you cut it off all round, ‘Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. may run out. Then cut the flesh off along the spine, with your knife sloped towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which sometimes might escape your eye. When you have obtained all the flesh that is about the members, wash them clean, and let them drain. Have ready a large vessel full of boiling water on the fire, put in the shells, and when you perceive that they come off easily, take them out of the water, and prick all the shells of the- back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly in water till you can take off the bones, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be done enough, as they will boil again in the sauce. When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces, All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be sweated in the following manner, Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom of a very large ‘stew-pan. Lay over the ham two or three knuckles of veal, according to the size of your turtle, and over the veal the inside flesh of the turtle, and the members over the whole. Then partly moisten it with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. Then moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling, put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the covking of a turtle: sweet bazil, sweet marjoram, - a0 lemon thyme, winter savory, two or three bay leaves, corm- mon thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with six cloves, Let the whole be thoroughly done. With respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and when done, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their ap- pearance only when the sauce is absolutely completed. When the flesh is also completely done, drain it through a silk sieve; make a white rou«e very thin, for turtle soup must not be much thickened ; when the flour is suffi- ciently done on a slow fire, moisten it with the sweat- ing. By this time all the softer parts are cold enough; eut them about an inch square without waste, mix the whole with the sauce, which must simmer gently. Then _ try them again, for if done enough, they are not to be kept on the fire, Skim all the fat and froth. Next take a small quantity of the herbs, which are to be chopped fine. For a turtle of 120lbs. weight, take four bottles of Madeira, which must be reduced to two. Let the sweet herbs boil in the wine with a little sugar, to take off the tartness of the wine and herbs: then rub them through a tammy and pour that over the turtle sauce, and let the whole boil for a short time. Then make some quenelles a tortue, which being sub- stitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. They are made in the following manner: take the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about one pound, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calves’ udder, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, a little Cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine. Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, and the yolke of another. Next try the farce in boiling hot water; and if too thin, you add the yolk of an egg, When the farce is in perfection, take half 56 of it'and put into it some chopped parsley. ' Let the whole. cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg5 poach it in water, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice of two or three lemons, witha | little Cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup. The fins may be served as a plat d’entrée with a little turtle sauce ; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle — au bain marie, and serve the members entire, with a mate- lotie sauce,: garnished with mushrooms, cocks’ combs, quenelles, &c. When either lemon juice or Cayenne pepper have been introduced, no boiling must take place. It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform. | e Some people require besides, fricandeaux, blangiiettes, &c. all of which are prepared in the same manner as veal. (See fricandeau, blanquettes). No. 35.—Spring Soup. Take carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small onions, cut into the shape of olives, blanch them, in winter; but in summer, fry them with a little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth, with a little sugar. Have ready the green tops of asparagus, and French beans cut into lozenges, which have been boiled separately in water very green, put them into the soup, when you send up, with slices of bread cut of the size of a penny, and soaked separately in a little broth; if you have any pease ready, you may put in some likewise. No. 36.—Potage &@ la Jardiniére, or Gardener’s Soup. Tuts is like all other Spring soups, only add leaves of sorrel and lettuce, without the stalks. 57 No. 37. —Mutton Cutlet Soup, nn a side of mutton, cut off all the ribs to put into the soup, which is to be made in the following manner : put all the trimmings of the chops, with a knuckle of veal, into a stew-pan, with leeks, a few turnips, and shreds of parsley. Moisten the whole with good boiling broth. Let it stew for two hours; then put the chops to boil thoroughly in that broth, in order that they discharge no scum. Have some. pearl barley boiled in water. Drain it well, put it into a stew-pan with some of the broth strained through a silk sieve. You must likewise have a few turnips, cut into dice which you put with the pearl barley, when the turnips are nearly done enough. Lastly, drain the chops from the broth, and give them a few boils with the barley and turnips ; skim all the fat, and serve up the chops, ribs, or cutlets, as you please to call them, in the soup, and put in a little parsley chopt very fine. No. 38.— Hochepot Soup. Cur some carrots, turnips, and a few heads of celery, into the shape of small corks or otherwise. Blanch them, and put them into some nice brown clear broth. Let them. boil for about an hour. You must have a few mutton chops done separately, that they may not make the broth look white. Throw them into the soup, with the bread as in No, 1. Serve up hot, and without any fat, No, 39.—Mock Turile, English Fashion, Take a calf’s head very white and very fresh, bone the nose part of it; put the head into some warm water to discharge the blood. Squeeze the flesh with your hand, to ascertain that it is all out, Blanch the head in boiling 58 water; when firm, put it into cold water, prepared blanc in the following way to boil it in: cut half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suct, an onion stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon; put all this into a vessel, with water enough to contain the head; boil the head in this, and leave it in to cool, then make the sauce in the following manner. Put into a stew-pan a pound of ham cut in slices, put over the ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two earrots, moisten with some of the broth in which you have boiled the head, to half the depth of the meat only, cover the stew-pan, and put it over the fire to sweat through, let the broth reduce to a very good colour, turn up the meat, for fear of burning. When you have a very good colour, moisten with the whole broth from the head, season with a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz. sweet basil, sweet mar- joram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a bay leaf, a few allspice, parsley, and green onions, and a few mush- rooms; let this boil together for one hour, then drain it, Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired a very good brown colour ; moisten this gradually with the broth, till you have em- ployed it all; add half a bottle of Sherry or Madeira; let the sauce boil, that the flour may be welldone; take off all the scum and fat; cut the calf’s head into square pieces of about an inch each; put them to boil in the sauce; season with salt, Cayenne pepper, and lemon juice, and add some quenelles.— (See farce a quenelle).. Observe, that you must not have the quenelles too deli- cate, for they would break in the soup, and spoil the look of it; the calf’s head must not be too much done; thrust your knife into the skin, and if the knife enters and de- taches itself easily, the meat is done enough. Some gen- tlemen will have their mock turtle green; in that case, you 59 must do as follows: put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one onion or two, add a hand- ful of each of the herbs described above, and sweat it all gently over a slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with some of the sauce, and rub it through a tammy ; lastly, mix this with the sauce, and the turtle will be green, without any alteration in the flavour, No. 40.—Potage a la Bauveau, _ TaKE some turnips, peel them, and use a cutter with which you cut out a few balls as round as possible, but very small. Blanch them, and boil them in some consommé, well clarified, with a little sugar. Serve up with bits of bread asin No. 1. It must appear very bright; put to it ’ two spoonfuls of gravy of veal. a Entrées that are to be served as Soups, or which want much Sauce, and are consequently to be served in deep Dishes. : No. 1.— Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. :, ha Bort some Naples macaroni in water, salt and butter. When it is done, put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound _of butter, some raspt Parmesan cheese, some Gruyére or Swiss cheese likewise, a little pepper, and a spoonful of cream. Then drain the macaroni, and toss it till the cheese be well mixed with it; then pour it into a dish; sprinkle some raspt cheese over it, baste it with a little butter, and use the salamander to make it brown, for the butter would turn to oil if you were to bake it in the oven. *~, 60 No. 2.—Breast of Lamb anak Green Pease, brown. Braize the whole pease when it is done take out the small bones, flatten it between two dishes, and let it cool. Next cut it into the size of small chops, and warm it in some of the liquor in which the breast has been braized ; lastly, drain and glaze it, and... cover it with your pease in the following manner. bj Take some very fine pease, which you handle in water with a little fresh butter; drain them, then sweat them over a very slow fire, with a small slice of ham, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, ~ take out the ham and the parsley and onions; reduce them with two spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little sugar. They are used to mask the meat. If you haveno Espagnole, put a tea-spoonful of flour with the pease, moisten with some of the liquor which has braized the breast of lamb or mutton ; reduce it, and season with salt and pepper ; mind that the sauce must be very short. .No. 3.—Breast of Lamb with Pease, white. Take a breast of lamb which braize as above. Stew the pease also in the same manner; but instead of using the - Espagnole you must use the sauce tournée. When you have no sauce tournée, a small bit of butter, and a tea- spoonful of flour, will answer the same purpose; moisten with broth only. Thicken your sauce with the yolks of two eggs that it may look whiter, (See Sauces). No, 4.—Tendons of Veal with Pease. (SEE entrées de veau). I mention them here, only be- eause they are sent up in deep dishes. The pease are prepared as above. (See Sauces). < wi ; 61 No. 5.—Tendons of Veal, en Haricots Vierges. _ Brarze them as indicated (entrées of veal), and. mask them with an haricot vierge. (See Sauces). No. 6.—Tendons of Veal en Chipolaia. Braizz the tendons as above. The chipolata is made in the following manner. You have some chesnuts ready - peeled and boiled; take a few small sausages, some small onions stewed very white, likewise bits of bacon, the breast | part, cut into corks, and also stewed white, and some mush- rooms, which you stew with some sauce tournée. When the ‘sauce is in a proper state of forwardness, thicken it ; put in all the ingredients, and after having dished the tendons in the shape of a miroton, or one upon another round the dish, put the chipolata into the middle, but keep some of the sauce to mask the tendons. You may add some cocks’- combs, &c. I[t is almost unnecessary to observe, that all the ingredients of the chipolata must be done separately, and put into the sauce when ready to serve up. When you want to serve the chipolata white, you must use white sauce instead of brown; the motive for having two colours is, that sometimes in spite of your endeavours to keep the tendons very white, as well as all the other ingredients, — you can only succeed in obtaining a darkish colour ; in that case, you must make the chipolata brown. No. 7.—Green Pease with Bacon, French Fashion. : THESE may be served without any other meat ; but they may also serve as a sauce for tendons either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and giblets of turkey. It is to be observed, however, that those articles which are served in a deep dish, must be cut up, as you could not carve them in Re ee OE POS, Se ae tre cea, AW BS eR a ee 62 so much liquid. Take some bacon, the breast part, cut about an inch square, boil it in water to extract the salt, then fry it in a little butter till it is of a fine brown. Next handle some fine pease and a little fresh butter in cold water. After having drained them, put them into a stew- pan with the bacon, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When nearly done, moisten with twa or three spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little sugar. Boil them’ a few minutes. Send up either with or without any other meat. No, 8.—Breast of Mutton en Haricot. BraizeE the breast of mutton as you would do any other meat; when done, take out the small bones and let the breast cool. Then have the meat cut into hearts ; warm them again separately in a little of the liquor, and after having drained them, mask them with the haricot. (See Sauces). No. 9.—Breast of Mutton en Hochepot. Braize* it as above, and mask it with a hochepot. (See Sauces). * Braizes in general—It is necessary to observe, that every thing which has the name of braize, must be done thoroughly, and must likewise be seasoned with vegetables, spices, sweet herbs, &c. Braizes belong rather to a common ‘style of cookery, but to be made in their perfection, they are one of the difficulties of the Art; they require so much care and such constant attend- ance, as to be very often neglected in a gentleman’s kitchen. I shall name those things that are in most frequent use, and are of the class of braizes, viz. Fricandeaux, sweet-breads, mutton a Ja soubise, tendons of veal in all their : ‘styles, galentines, cotelettes a la dreux, ditto a la chalon, partridges with cabbage, pheasants ditto, rump of beef, breast of ditto, leg of mutton, &c. &c. are all braized. Every thing that is!termed poé/e, must have its proper time to be done; and as the poé/e must preserve the colour of the fowl, and some- times even whiten it, it is not an easy matter to make it in perfection. 63 No. 10.—Lamb’s Pluck & la Pascaline. 4 Taxe the head, trotters, liver, lights, &c. bone the head and trotters as well as you can. Set them to disgorge, and blanch them. Then boil them in a blanc as you would do a calls head. When wine eae done, drain them anid ‘#32 ky a white Italienne, that you have thickened. (See Sauces). No. 11.—The Civet of Hare, Is only mentioned here, to imply that it is sent up ina deep dish. (See entrées of Game, and Hare Soup). No, 12.—Duck, with Sour-Crout. Sour-crovt is sold ready pickled. Drain some, and put it into a braizing-pan with a piece of bacon, (the breast part) a bunch of parsley and green onions, spices, bay leaves, thyme, and mace; put also a little whole pepper. Next put the duck in the middle of the sour-crout, : cover the whole with layers of bacon, and moisten with ; some liquor of braize, or top-pot,* strained through a silk | sieve. If you should have a knuckle of ham, you may put it in after having blanched it. You may add a German sausage, together with some English sausages, observing that the small sausages must not be added till half an hour | before serving up, otherwise they would be too much done. Three hours are required for the above to be done overa slow fire. When the sour-crout is done, put it into a large hair sieve to drain; then dish it, that is, put it into a deep dish with the duck in the middle, the sausages.and bacon, &e, being put round it. The dack will be better if cut into * Top-pot, is the fat that comes over the broth. 64 four, as it is difficult to carve any thing that has so many other things with it: wm No. 13.—Members of Duck, with French Sour-crout. ‘ Braize the duck in the same manner as that with the purée of green pease, and mask it with the sour-crout, which. is made as follows: —Take off the stock of a white cabbage, mince the whole nearly as is done for sour-crout; cut some bacon (the breast part) into small squares of about an inch; fry it a little, and then take it out to put the cabbages into that grease, in which they are to sweat. When nearly done put the bacon in again, and moisten with some thin sauce tournée, because if it were thick you could not get the fat. off. Skim off all the fat, reduce the cabbage, and use it to mask the duck. You may also put in some sausages that have been braized with the duck, Novdid.-ibTanions of Turkey Giblets, We call giblets of turkey, the pinions, the heel the liver, the gizzard, &c. When all those parts have been washed clean, put them into a stew-pan. Wrap them up in layers of bacon; moisten with good broth, a little salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley seasoned. When done, drain them, and after having placed them in the dish, cover them with the haricot. No. 15.—Haricot of Turkey Pinions. Take the pinions of half a dozen turkeys. Bone them as far as the middle joint, and let them disgorge in warm water: next blanch and singe them, mark them well wrapt up in layers of bacon, and moisten with a braze, if you have any; if not with a small bit of butter, alittle broth and salt, an onion and two cloves, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When done, drain them and mask with the haricot. No, 16.—Legs of Fowls with Nouilles. WHEN you have a large dinner to send up, you necessa- rily have a vast quantity of fillets of fowl, and as many legs. You must use them in preference for a deep dish. Bone the thighs, season well inside, and sew them up so as to give them a good shape. Next braize them as white as. possible, and sauce them with the nouilles. This dish is most excellent. For a family dinner, the day after com- pany, you may make a soup of it; instead of sauce put broth, and let there be less nouilles. No. 17 —Eggs a ala Tripe. TaKE a dozen of eggs boiled hard, cut hath into thick round slices, and put them into the sauce, which follows. Cut three large white onions into dice; fry them white in butter; when they are nearly done powder them well over with flour, and moisten with some good milk, and a few spoonfuls of cream. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon to prevent their burning. When the sauce is done, grate a little nutmeg into it, and season with a little salt and pepper, &c, then throw the eggs in and send up. \ No. 18,—Eggs a la Créme en Surprise. Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, and cut them in two. Then take out the yolks and rub them through a hair sieve. Chop the whites very fine, and make a sauce 2 la __ créme, which is marked the same as melted butter, except that you moisten it with cream. When the sauce is well done, add to it a lump of butter, throw the chopt whites into the sauce, and season it well, Lastly, pour the sauce and whites into the dish, and. cover the whole with the yolks, which you baste with a little butter, and make them brown with a red hot shovel or salamander. F ie 66 No. 19.—Hochepot of Rump of Beef. BEEF tail is very good eating, but in general it is seldom sent up as an entrée, although en hochepot et en haricot (see Sauces) they may be served in a deep dish. The beef tail is to be cut in the joints, and left to disgorge in water. It must next be blanched. You then let it cool, and put it between layers of bacon, to prevent its getting black. Moisten and season it with carrots, onions, &c. When . done drain it, and serve up with the sauces above-men- tioned. Observe that this dish must be well done, as the meat must detach itself freely from the bones. No. 20.— The same, en Haricot brun. BraizE as above, and cover with haricot brun. (See Sauces). 3 ? No. 21.—The same, with Green Pease. THE same as above; mask with green pease, No. 7; page 61. ——————————— lO eee ee | 67 fe CHAP. ITI. REMOVES OF THE SOUPS AND FISH. a - : ® No. 1._—Rump of Beef glazed. Tne rump is undoubtedly the best part of the beef, and particularly for French cookery; it'1s necessary to select for this dish, that which is most covered with fat; cut out the small fillet first; then take out the bone, and tie it round of a good shape; put it into the stock-pot in which you make the broth. When done, drain it a quarter of an hour before dinner time, that you may trim it well and glaze it several times. Dish it with green parsley all round. It is neces- sary to observe, that as the best eating part is that which is most covered with fat, the cook must be particular in trim- ming the fat, and leaving only what is necessary to receive the glaze. The manner of cutting the meat is a great ad- vantage to the savour; the cook must mark the place with chopped parsley, as was my constant practice when I had occasion to serve the rump of beef. Several people braize the rump of beef, a practice of which I do not approve, as it gets too highly seasoned for people who have so many other things to eat. The sauces and garnitures that are served at the same time are sufficiently seasoned, without the beef being so like- wise. Besides, the first method is the most economical, as the braized rump furnishes too rich a liquor to be used in delicate cookery. Moreover, when boiled in the common way, the rump is more wholesome, makes more broth, and KF 2 68 therefore deserves the preference. However, not to disap- point such as might like it, I shall proceed to treat of No. 2.—Rump of Beef braized. ' TaKE a rump of beef well covered with fat; bone it, lie it up with packthread. Then put layers of bacon at the bottom of a braizing-pan; lay the rump of beef with its top part upwards on the bacon: next cut into slices a large quantity of veal, which serve. to wrap up the beef; then cover the whole with layers of bacon, put in some carrots, onions, parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, mace, cloves, spice, salt, and pepper. Moisten with a little broth ; then close the braizing-pan as hermetically as possible, and let the meat stew on a slow fire for four hours ; when done, reduce some of the liquor, and glaze it with the same. Then take some carrots that have been braized with the beef, and trim them of a nice shape. They must be served up glazed. Add likewise some glazed onions and braized lettuce, and put all those roots and vegetables round the rump in small heaps, then send up with some of the liquor that you have thickened with brown sauce; if you have no sauce, put half a quarter of a pound of butter into a small stew-pan, mix with it a tea-spoonful of flour, moisten with some of the liquor; add a little gravy to give it a good colour, and when well done, put it over the rump. - No. 3.—Breast of Beef, & la Flamande. Takk that part of a breast of beef which contains the gristle, and season it the same as the rump. Put to it some carrots and turnips cut into the shape of corks, and some braized cabbage. When done, drain the’ vegetables, and _ dress them round the beef in the same manner as in the ‘preceding article, (the Rump). The sauce also the same. ~ You should also have some small vegetables boiled to glaze, Ee 69 which spread over. after having poured the sauce. This _ breast of beef may be sent up whole, the same as the rump, No, 1 and 2, garnished with glazed onions, cabbage and sausages, hochepot, petty patties a la Mazarine; lettuce glazed @ ' Espagnole, artichoke bottoms ditto, cauliflowers, &e. z +ig No. 4.—Surloin of Beef roasted. Tux principal observation and direction required with. regard to this article, is, that it is of all the parts the most delicate; and when the piece is very big, the fire must be more moderate, as it is very long before the middle can be warm. If your fire is sharp, the meat will be burnt on the outside, and quite raw in the middle; ano- ther necessary. observation is, that when you put the spit too low, the meat loses a great deal of the heat, receiving it only from the top: to keep down the colour, it is better to cover it with a few sheets of white paper, and uncover it only when the meat is nearly done. ! No. 5.—Leg of Mutton roasted. Tus joint is with reason the great favourite of an English epicure, and the one that makes its appearance oftener than any other at his table; the Welsh mutton is in very great tepute; but I have frequently dressed some Leicestershire, equal to any mutton in the world: this joint does not allow of being covered with paper. It must be cut in the, oint, that i ge eh it may be bent round when put on the spit: tl makes the meat carve better ; as the sinews have been cut, - they don’t shrink, and the gravy remains more in the meat, A leg of mutton shows its goodness when the sinews are very small, and the back of it appears very brown; it is never in that state till three or four years old; and it must lis Operation’ 70 have that age to be in perfection. The leg:must be roasted. by: a acd sharp fire, to keep the gravy round it, No. 6.—Saddle of Mution roasted. Tuis joint is likewise a great favourite, and possesses a very delicate meat, particularly if carved in the proper way; the only objection is the great weight of the joint, consi- dering how very little meat may be cut out of it; you must _ procure for this joint a proper skewer, give a little nick with the chopper to separate the bone near the tail, and put the skewer through; then tie the saddle on the spit, and roast — it the same way as the leg, before a sharp fire, otherwise it is not so tasty. : To carve it well, you must make an incision about three inches along the bone, then cut it sideways as a cutlet; in this way the meat is better. Those persons who dislike the fat, , may leave it on their plates. By this mode of carv- ing, you may serve twelve people instead of six. No. 7.—Braized Leg of Mutton, Overt Gigot de Sepi Heures. Pur the leg of mutton into a braizing-pan; trim it with a little veal, a few carrots, onions, and a bunch of parsley and green onions, properly seasoned. Cover the whole with thin slices of bacon, to prevent its being burnt. Let it stew for about four hours; then strain the liquor through a a silk sieve; reduce it to glaze, and then glaze the leg of | mutton which you send up, with glazed onions, or white beans a la mattre ahétel, or a la Lyonnaise, tye© —Loin of Veal roasted, Take a fine loin of veal, which cut quite square. Ine a troduce attelets, or skewers, in the flank which you haye 71 rolled up, Then fix it on the spit, and cover it with but- tered paper. Take the paper off about a quarter of an hour, before you send the joint up, that it may be of a nice brown colour. Gravy alone iis requisite under the joint. No. 9.—Loin of Veal & la béchamel. WueEn you have served a loin of veal, and very little has" been eaten of it, take off the fillet, cover the whole with some buttered paper, and put it to warm in the oven; when well warmed, make a blanquetie with what you have taken out; replace it in the fillet, and serve up very hot. This is — as good as a new dish, and looks as well. mo . a 10. “otway Veal 2 la Créme. ‘Tun same as the frst, No. 8. As soon as it is done, take off the fillet and cut it in scollops, which throw into the sauce a blanguette. (See Sauce & blanquetie). Put this blanquetie into the aperture, and send up with he same sauce under it. : No, 11.—Calf’s Head Plains TaKE a nice calf’s head and bone it, that is to say, take off the bones of the lower jaw, and of the nose, which you cut off as: close to the eyes as possible. Then put all this into a large vessel with warm water, to wash off the blood, or othérwise the head would look reddish. Then blanch it » thoroughly and let it cool. Now make a blanc in the fol- lowing manner: one pound of beef suet, cut into dice, Fa one pound of fat bacon, also cut into dice, half a pound of © butter, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, cne or two onions, a bunch of parsley, seasoned with thyme, bay- leaves, cloves, mace, allspice, and water enough to cover the calf’s head. When the dlanc has boiled for an hour, 72 fold the head up in a clean towel, let it boil in that lane for about three hours. When done drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and then replace it. A calf’s head must be - served up quite hot, with: a sauce called au pauvre homme, namely, minced shalots, parsley ditto, vinegar, salt and pep- per, and the brains well minced. No. 12,—Calf’s Head, with Love- Apple Sauce. TuE same as in No. 11; with this difference only, that it is to be covered with love-apple sauce. No. 13.—Calf’s Head bigarrée. Take a nice calf’s head, which prepare as in No. 11; drain it whilst hot, that you may be able to give it a good — shape; then divide it into two parts, which squeeze hard between two Biches: and let them cool. When quite cold, dip one half into the yolks of four eggs well beaten up with butter, and a little salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread. This is to be repeated twice. Do the same with the other half, only add plenty of chopped parsley to the crumbs of bread, that it may be made quite green. Next put both halves into an oven till they are of a nice brown colour, and serve up with either a sharp sauce, an Jtalienne, or a love-apple sauce. When you have no other sauce by you, but a little glaze, make some good melted butter, and put to.it some blanched and chopped parsley, some salt and Cayenne pepper, and the brains chopped. Add a small bit _of glaze or portable soup, and you will find this sauce as " good as many others. No. 14.—Calf’s Head du Putts certain. _ Bone a calf’s head. Make a farce or force meat with veal, fat bacon, and sweet herbs, chopped fine and highly 73 seasoned. Add to it two or three yolks of eggs. When made, stuff the calf’s head with it, and sew it up all round, to prevent the stuffing from falling out, then wrap it up in a cloth, and stew it @ la braize ; ‘that is to say, put it into a braizing-pan with an abundance of slices of veal and layers of bacon, seasoned with carrots, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf and spice, moisten with a glass of white wine, and a ladle full of broth*, Let it stew for four hours, and serve up with a financire. : No. 15.—Calf’s Head & la Chambord. Dress it as indicated at No. 13. When done and drained, take pieces of pickled cucumbers and truffles cut into the shape of nails, with which symmetrically stick the head; then sauce it with a financiére garnished with larded sweetbreads, | large quenelles, pigeons a la gautier, and some craw-fish, No. 16.—Farm-Yard Turkey a la Montmorenci. TAKE a large fat farm-yard turkey: truss it up as if it a 7 were to be poéié; dip the breast info boiling hot water to make it firm, which will enable you to lard it nicely ; then braize it with a good fire on the cover of the pan, that the bacon may get ore. and retain the glaze better when you glaze it. Take care not to do it too. much; drain it, and serve up with a financiére of a fine light brown colour and i well seasoned. No. 17.—Turkey and Célery Sauce. Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon; then boil it in plain water with a little salt, butter, and lemon- juice. Drain it, and muskt it with celery sauce. (See a) . * Some of the liquor in which you have boiled the calf’s head reduced with some of the sauce. ; + Mask, means to cover it with the sauce, No. 18.—Turkey a la Périgueus, with Truffles, : * vite Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has been killed; empty it, and put plenty of salt inside of the body, to draw the blood out, Then let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the following manner: take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell whether they are all of a-good flavour. Then pick out the smallest from amongst them, and chop them very fine. ‘Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it so as to obtain the fat only, without any of the sinews. When you have, thus rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of | the turkey, stuff the turkey with the chopped truffles, toge- ther with the whole ones, and bacon seasoned with salt, spices, pepper, and Cayenne pepper, well mixed Hea re Sew the turkey up, and keep it in the larder long enough for it to obtaiff a fine flavour of the truffles. Then roast it well, wrapt up in layers of bacon, and covered with paper, &e; Serve up with a purée of chesnuts & brun*®, + No. 19.—F owls & la Condé. Take a couple of fine white fowls, empty them, take off the bone of the breast, and the sinews of the legs, then truss them, and put into the body a little butter, seasoned. with lemon juice and salt, which will make the fowls look well and whiter. Next mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, cover them well, and pour over them a poéle, which is made in the following manner: take a pound of veal, a pound of fat bacon, and a little fat of ham, all cut into dice. Fry the whole white in half a pound of butter. Moisten the whole with boiling water; season with * This dish is one of the best in cookery, if it is well Site and roasted. It is necessary to observe, that the carver must serve the e insi the fillet, as that is one of the best parts of the dish, ’ 75 : ; a bunch of parsley, salt, and pepper, a little thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a clove, and when sufficiently stewed, strain: it through a hair sieve over the fowls, which stew for three- _ quarters of an hour over a slow fire, but keep a brisk fire on the cover of the stew-pan. When done, drain and dish them with a tongue a V’écarlate in the middle, and the sauce @ la financiére under it. : 7 See splice va il Me tees) No. 20.—Fowls a la Montmorenci, : Arz prepared the same as fowls @ la Condé, with this only exception, that the breast of these is to be larded, and — glazed of « fine colour: garnish with larded sweetbreads, ‘ quenelles a la cuillizre, &e. and a ragout a a VAllemande for sauce*, — | ill a fe No. 21.—Capons @ la Turque. _ ! 4 TakE two white capons, empty them, and put them into warm water that they may disgorge the blood, which would otherwise produce a great deal of scum. Have ready some rice which has boiled till soft in rich consommé, put this rice well seasoned into the body of the capons; then truss - them, cover them with layers of bacon, wrap them up in paper, and spit them; they must be an hour roasting. When done, dish them with a garnish. of soft rice, anda velouté for sauce. t No. me ane Ham a l Essence. . Take a small Westphalia ham, and trim it well. Be particular in sawing off the knuckle, in order not to break the bone into splinters. Keep it one day in water, to take out * Observe, that the difference of ragouts is in their colour only; Jfinanciére is brown; Allemande, or Royal, or Toulouse, are white. In gene- ral, you ssa 2a white sauce with glazed entrée, and brown with white. $s . x “6 the brine, and boil it in plain water for four hours. Wheri done, drain it, take off the rind; and give it @ nice round form. ‘Then put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry the - fat, which otherwise could not be glazed properly. When — quite dried, glaze it of a fine colour, and serve under it an essence. (See Sauces). fm * ' : ae ~~ Receipt to mich ge Ham betier than those of Westphalia. , As soon as s the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the to hams, and cut out the round bone, so as to have the ~ ham not too thick ; rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for three days; when the salt has drawn out all the blood, throw the brine away and proceed as follows: for two hams of about eighteen pounds each, take one pound of moist sugar, one pound of common salt, ’ and two ounces of saltpetre, mix them together, and rub the hams well with it,-then put them into a vessel large enough to contain them in the liquor, always keeping the salt over them; after they have been in this ‘state three days, throw over them a bottle of good vinegar. One month is requisite for the cure of them; during that period, they must be often turned in the brine; when baw take. them out, drain them well, powder them with some coarse flour, and hang them in a dry place. The same biti can serve again, observing that you must not put so much salt on the next hams that you pickle. No. 23.—Ham with Madeira, _ e TAKE in preference a Bayonne ham, which prepare in the - same manner as directed above: but it need not be left so long in water, as it is not, so briny as the Westphalia hams are. Blanch. it in water only during two hours. Then drain it and put it into a braizing-pan, trimmed with thin slices o ‘oe a7 eal at the bottom, seasoned with carrots, onions, parsley, © bay-leaves, spices, &c. Pour over these. two glasses of rich consommé and a bottle of Madeira, let it boil for about a couple of hours. When done, pour some mf the liquor, after ving skimmed off the fat to reduce to an Espagnole, which is the proper sauce. : N. B.—When the ham has boiled for two hours i in the water, you must trim it instantly, before you put it with. the wine, that you may send it up the moment you take it out» of the braize. etic. the liquor to make the glaze for i it. me No. 24.—Ham with Windsor Beans. Boit the ham as in No. 22, glaze it in the same manner, and serve under it Windsor beans, dressed as follows : : Take some very small Windsor beans, boil them in water with a little salt; when boiled enough, take a little veloute, into which throw a half quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little chopt parsley and savory, toss the beans in that sauce after having drained them, and dish the ham over the-beans. " ; Dv a iui’ No. 25.—A Roast Beef of Lark a, Take the saddle and the two legs of a 1h: ‘cut on the middle of each leg a small rosette which is to be larded, as also the fillets. Roast the whole, and glaze the larded parts - of a good colour. In France we serve it up with maitre d’hétel, but in England you send up with gravy ays it, and mint sauce in a boat*. _ re , a‘: * The appellation of roast beef of lamb, must sound very extraordinary _to an English ear, but the singularity of the name will be as nothing, when compared with the importance and nétessity of the dish. At avery great dinner, it is essential to have some dish of magnitude. This one exhibits a very good appearance, and is truly exc nt. I beg to recommend the trial of a maitre d’hétel under, as the butter, parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon juice, agree well with the gravy of the meat; those who make the experi- ment will certainly approve of it. 78. fr os # ' hi No. 26.—Saddle of Mutton, or Roast Beef de Mouton. # aye ; te oak ae THE same preparation as above. This is sent up in par- ticular cases only ; when large dishes are wanted to cover a table of extraordinary magnitude, or to display the magnifi- cence of the host. " 3 ae No. 27.—Saddle of Faun, or Chevreuil. ‘ THe same as No. 26. When larded, put it into a very large vessel with salt, pepper, and onions cut into slices, parsley, vinegar, spices, &c. Leave it to pickle for two or three days, taking great care to turn it frequently on every side. Then roast it, and serve with a powvrade under it. Mind that the fillets and both legs must be larded. No. 98.—The Haunch of V enison*, Iv was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg, lard it, and then pickle it. In England it is eus- tomary to put it on the spit, then make some paste with . flour and water only, and case the venison with it, securing it with afew sheets of paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red currant jelly made hot with a little port wine. No. 29.—The Neck of Venison, _ Js also to be roasted, but as it is not by far so thick as the haunch, the paste may be dispensed with, if you take _ great care to stop the spit in the under side of the neck. * The great point in roasting venison, is to keep as much as possible the fat from melting ; the paste put. over it, is to prevent the heat of the fire from wasting it. 79 eke cette” SeeNo. ss ae of Pork... e Take the leg of a porket, and rub it-over with, salt, and put it well covered with salt also i in avessel, where it is to be left ten days. Then boil it in water, and send it up with green “ca age all round, and a pgpse-pudding which is made as follows : | ‘Take a quart of dry pease, ah them clean, wrap them up ina clean towel, and throw them into the same vessel as the leg. When the pease are done, strain them through a sieve, put in a good lump of butter, some salt, two eggs, and poach them, wrapped up in a clean towel, to make the pudding. : ail No. 31.—Fowls a la Mirepoix. wild Take a couple of white fowls, which empty and truss with the legs bent down. Then make a mirepoix in the - following manner: take a few slices of ham, some rasped bacon, butter, salt, bay-leaves, parsley, and lemon-juice : let the whole fry white on a very slow fire. When the rasped bacon and butter are well mixed together, put the fowls into an oval stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, which moisten with the mirepoix and a spoonful of broth, to prevent their frying. They must stew for an hour* on a very slow fire; then drain them well, and serve up an Espagnole, or a ravigotte. | N. B.—All voluminous entrées may be served as a relevé (remove), as for instance, a large noix of veal @ la bourgeoise, a large carée of veal garnished with vegetables, andg in short, whatever is of too great a magnitude for an enirée, * You must however proportion the time to the size of the fowl. A small one will of course require less tig, as avery Jarge one. would demand more, : ‘ ae 80 No. 32. _-Boiled Turkey with Chater Sauce. Tuts is to be botledad in the same manner as in No, 18. (See Oyster Sauce, No. bis page 39). te) Pp: * fits as Fish sent up with the Soups; or as a Remove ‘“ the Soup. ‘te No. 1.—Turbot and Lobster Sauce. eae & CHUSE a oa white and fine skinned turbot; Ta quar- ters of an hour before dinner, or an hour if the turbot is very large, put it into boiling water and salt, with lemon slices over it; start it very quick, when it. begins to boil draw the pan on the side of the fire, If the turbot boils too fast, it will be woolly; when you have ascertained with your knife that it is quite done, serve with green parsley on the broken places; and put round the dish some horse-radish scraped fine; serve the lobster sauce separately in a boat. Observe that you must make an aperture on the back of the turbot; it will by that means be sooner done. Lobster Sauce. Take a hen lobster, cut the flesh into smalh dice, keep the eggs, which pound with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and strain through a hair sieve. You then make some melted butter; let it be rather thick: mix the eggs of the lobster with it, and throw into it a little essence of an- chovies, a small quantity of cavice,* and a little cream. Take care that the sauce does not boil, for it would curdle, and lose its colour. : * Mackay, in Piccadilly, sells the best, that is to say, the only genuine cavice. ee a ee a st si “No. 2 —Broiled ot orn the turbot i in sweet: oil, salt, pepper, & x | broil it on a slow fire: but it cannot be sufficiently ¢ hee in this way in less than an hour. You must accordingly put it on a slow fire i in due time. ‘Then cover it with caper- sauce, which is to be made as follows: make some melted. butter with a little glaze in it; when melted you throw in — some essence of anchovies, capers, and vinegar. Then give a good seasoning, and mask, that is, pour i sauce over the fish: | bin No.3 3.—Boiled Salmon with dobiter Satice. Bow the salmon into boiling viatiirs the same as the tur- st with salt eit Serve mp with lobster sauce: — ss f No. 4 Slices se Sidheon broiled, with Caper Sauce. MarinavE your slices of salmon in oil and salt, broil them on a slow fire, and cover them with caper sauce, No. 5.—Crimped Salmon. Tue Thames produces the best salmon, but its price allows it to make its appearance at the table of the rich only, -or at that of the extravagant.» I have occasionally bought "some at sixteen shillings per pound, which brings the price of one dish only to more than four pounds; it requires. to be boiled quickly in salt and water. Serve up with lobster sauce. Fifteen minutes is sufficient to boil it. If you leave it too long in the water, it loses all its taste and colour. * $2 No. 6.—Salmon with Genéubise Sauce. . Tax a few shalots, some roots of parsley, a bunch ditto ascitic: spices, thyme, bay-leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole be lightly fried in a little butter. Then moisten with white wine (Madeira in preference). Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour, When the marinade is done, drain it through a tammy over the fish, which stew in that seasoning. As soon as the fish is sufficiently stewed, drain it, pick off all the scales, and return it into the vessel where it has already boiled, with some of the liquor to keep it hot, and mind to cover it to prevent it from drying. Now reduce some of the marinade with a good Espagnole, skim off all the fat, throw in a good piece of butter, well kneaded with flour, alittle essence of anchovies, the juice of a lemon, ‘some Cayenne pepper, and a little salt. When you have drained the fish, cover it with the sauce, and send some likewise separately in a sauce-boat. N. B.—Salmon is also served au court bouillon. (See No. 27, page 89). No. 7.—Cod with Oyster Sauce. Bort the fish in boiling water and plenty of salt; mind that if the fish is very large, you must not boil it too fast, as it then becomes woolly; be careful before sending up, to ascertain with your knife whether it is well done, Serve with oyster sauce, as described No. 94, page 39, No. 8.—Slices of Crimp Cod. Bott the slices in the same manner as the fish when whole, and send them up with the same sauce; mind that - ten or fifteen minutes are sufficient to boil them. If you are obliged to wait after the fish as done, do not ny 83 leave it in the water, but take it out, and cover it with a clean cloth, and when you are to serve, dip it again into the warm water, and by this method you preserve its flavour, and are ose a serve it hot. aE > é yey No. bales Cod with Cream Sauce. THE same as above. The sauce d la créme is made in the following manner: take a quarter of a pound of butter, a little flour, some cream and a little salt, mix them toge- ther, and turn them on the fire, but do not let the sauce - boil. Then cover the fish with it. N. B.—It is not served up so in England. No. Dazathe John Dorey, with Lobster Sauce. Bow it in the same manner as “you do turbot. (See No. 1). Send it up with lobster sauce. (See Lobster Sauce, No. I, page 80). No. 11.—Ditto, broiled with Anchovy Sauce. MarinaDF in oil, and broil it in the same manner as you do turbot. ‘The same sauce also, but without capers. No. 12.—Soles fried or boiled.* : _» Bor. the soles in boiling water with a little salt and vi- _megar. Fried soles are to be covered with crumbs of bread, ‘which is done in the following manner: break two eggs, * Observations on Fish in general.—It is necessary to have the fish well cleaned from all the blood, as the least redness left in it is very prejudicial. When the soles or whitings are large, it is natural to conceive that they will be longer frying or boiling than when small: pay proper attention to the following observation: fish not well done is not eatable; and served up ir ‘that state, it would prejudice the company against the rest of your dinner. . By this want of attention, you lose all chance of pleasing your employer. rey 84. which beat with a little salt: dip the soles into this omelette first, then into crumbs of bread. Fry the fish till it is of a. fine colour.. Shrimp sauce is made as follows: make some ~ melted butter, with which mix a little essence of anchovies;, throw in the shrimps, some cavice, and send up in a sauce- boat. | : No. 13,—Broiled Soles. Dir them into beaten eggs and crumbs of bread as above, but twice, using melted butter the second time. Broil them till they are of a light brown, and send up with shrimp sauce. No. 14.—Fried Whitings. TakE very fresh whitings, empty them well, and flay them. ‘Then fasten the tail in the mouth with a small skewer, and dip the fish into an omelette, the same as the soles, then into crumbs of bread, and fry them till they are of alight brown. (See Shrimp Sauce, No. 12 above), No. 15.—Fried Whitings French fashion. Ler the whitings be very fresh, and of an equal size: empty and scrape them well all over; then wash them in different waters. When quite clean, slit them equally on the back, and dip them into flour only. Next fry them in very hot oil, and over a large fire, otherwise when you put them in, they might cool the dripping. When of a light brown, send them up with shrimp sauce in a sauce- boat. No. 16.—Boiled Whitings. a I rurmx it useless to, explain what is generally known, about boiling whitings, or fish of any other sort; I shall J 85 therefore only mention a particular or two, which might have escaped the memory of some of my brethren, who are desirous of displaying variety. When you want to boil the whitings, it is better not to open the belly, as they have a better appearance on the table. Mind to keep the skins whole, otherwise they will look very bad. , No. 17.—Boiled Mackarel. Bort the mackarel as you would any other fish, and make a fennel sauce, The fennel is to be boiled in boiling water with salt; then it is to be chopped very fine, and thrown into melted butter, and serve up. N. B.—It is necessary to observe, that in England it is the custom to send up this fish with the fennel sauce, and garnished with fennel round. | ar No, 18.—Broiled Mackarel. — Picx out in preference mackarels with soft rows, which are the most delicate. Gut them, open them at the back, and marimade them in oil,* salt, and pepper. Next. broil them, but unless they are done enough they are never good. The matire d’hétel sauce is to be made separately, and ‘served in a boat. Those who wish to have the mackarel dressed in the French fashion, must have some parsley chopped very fine; mix it with some fresh butter, salt, pep- per, and lemon juice, put this into the aperture of the mac- karel’s back, and when well broiled, serve very hot. — The fillets of mackarel are to be eut from the bone, and trimmed of a good shape; put them into a sauté pan with some clarified butter and a little salt over them till dinner time, then put them to do into the oven, or on. the stove; . * The oilis to prevent the fish from. drying, and sticking to the gridiron. 86. _ drain them upon a clean sheet of paper; dress them on thé — dish, and cover them with the maitre d’hétel sauce. N.B.—All other methods of dressing fish, will be found in the chapter of entrées. No. 19,<-Boiled Haddocks. Tuey are boiled in the same manner as soles, and served up with shrimp sauce. You may use haddocks for a nelles, or filets, as well as whitings. No. 20,—Skate with Sheva Sauce. | SKaTE must be boiled i in water with a little salt and vine- gar. The sauce is sent up separately in a boat. Skate may be served Be also with caper sauce. 1 No. 21.— Boiled Pike with Duich Sauce. Empry and scale the pike, wash it well after it has stood for an hour in cold water, to disgorge all the blood; then boil it like any other fish, and serve up with a Dutch sauce, No, 22.—Baked Pike. ScaLE and empty the pike, without injuring the skin of the belly, into which introduce a farce, which would drop out if not well secured. This farce is made of two handfuls of:crumbs of bread, one handful of chopt beef-suet, a little lemon peel chopt likewise, parsley ditto, salt, pepper, and spices, two whole eggs, and a little fresh butter. Mix the whole together, and pound it in a mortar: then stuff the pike with it, and turn the pike with its tail fastened in its mouth, by means of.a skewer; next dip it, first into an omelette, and then into crumbs of bread, and again into crumbs of bread; then baste it over with butter, before you 7 at ‘ Fa thas ~ nt an itieegnl OT eek ae mobs put it into the oven. Ifyou are to send up two, one of them is to be made of a green colour, by means of a quan- tity of chopped parsley being mixed with the erumbs of bread. Mind the oven must be well heated. When the pikes are of a fine brown, cover them with paper, and let them be well done through. Serve up with a Dutch sauce, (No. 68, page 30). | Me oh Pike 8° la Géndvoise: vices and wash the pike, and stew it in the same manner _ as the salmon, No, 6, page 82. No. 24.—Pike a la Polonoise. Wass the pike clean as above, then cut it into slices a8 if you wanted to make a matelotie; then fry in a quarter of a pound of butter the following herbs: a few carrots cut into dice, a few roots of parsley, a bunch of parsley and - green onions, seasoned with mace, cloves, thyme, and bay- . leaves, and alittle ham. When fried, moisten the whole with a sufficient quantity of boiling water, and let it boil for one hour. When the marinade is well stewed, drain it through a silk sieve over the slices of pike, and let them stew, but not too long, for they would break, When the . fish is done enough, take the liquor in which it has boiled, to moisten a béchamelle maigre, which you make in the fol- lowing manner: take a few bits of ham, some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, a small white onion, | which fry white in butter, then put to it a large handful of flour, let it fry a little, and moisten with the liquor in which the pike has been boiling, Stir this with a wooden spoon; let it boil till the flour is well done, throw in a pint of thick cream, that has already been boiled, and reduce the whole, | till the sauce is thick enough to cover the fish. Next take some turnips, cut into dice, that have been stewed in some 88 of the broth and sugar; drain them and throw them into the sauce, after the latter have been drained through a tammy. Drain the pike also, and cover it with the sy wig and the turnips. ! | ‘'N. B.—This sauce requires a little sugar, on account of the turnips. Mind the sauce is well seasoned. No. 95, Puné a la Chambord. Scaxe the pike, and let it disgorge in water for an hour or two. Then lard it in different places on one side of the. back, and bake it in a marinade au vin, as you would do in the marinade a la Genévoise. That part which has been larded must stand uppermost, to prevent the part which is not larded from getting dry. Cover this with layers of bacon, and be particular in basting frequently with the seasoning. When the fish is done, glaze the parts that have been larded, and mask the others with a ragodt a la Chambord. Observe that the quenelles must be made of fish. ‘The garnish is generally composed of large quenelles, small pigeons (squab pigeons), larded sweetbread of lamb, &c. Take a little of the marinade, skim off the fat, reduce it nearly to glaze, and mix it with the Chambord, whichis no other thing than a financiére with the addition of a little essence of anchovies,. the juice of a lemon, and a little Cayenne. No. 26.—Pike au Court Bouillon. Take a large pike, which empty, without scaling it. Then wash it clean, and drain it. Next boil some vinegar, and when boiling, pour it over the scales of the pike, which will turn blue, and the scales will curl up if the vinegar is hot enough. Wrap the pike up in a towel, and let it boil in the court bouillon, which is prepared as follows:* (No. 27). * If you should be in the country, where there is plenty of pike, you may make fillets of them, for they are as good as any other fish for that, TI hast es Eee ee 89 No. 27,—-Court Bouillon. for Fish au bleu. ~ TAKE two of each of the following roots: carrots, onions, roots of parsley, leaves of ditto, thyme, bay-leaves, mace, cloves, spices, which fry in butter without their getting too much colour. Then pour into it two bottles of white and a bottle of red wine with salt, &c. This marinade being stewed properly, will serve several times for stewing the fish, but remember each time you use it, it requires a little water; besides, it would become too strong in the course of time. Take some of that liquor to make the sauce matelotte, Gené- voise, &c. &c. a | No. 28.— Trout a la Genévoise. ’ Turs fish is the most delicate that can be prepared d la Genévoise. The marinade to be made the same as in No.6, for salmon, page 82, or above No. 27. “No. 29.—Roast Sturgeon. Spir the sturgeon: make a marinade with white wine, with which baste the sturgeon. Next take some of the ma- rinade that you reduce with four large spoonfuls of good Espagnole sauce. When the sauce is of a good consistency, put about half a pound of fresh butter kneaded with a little flour, salt, and Cayenne pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a: | spoonful of essence of anchovies. If you have no Espagnole, make a little roux, with flour and butter, and moisten with the marinade; add to it a little glaze, must be dressed in the same way as fillets of soles or whitings, d la maitre whétel, or ravigotie, or & la orlies. No. 30.—Baked Sturgeon. Maks a marinade the same as above, and babe the fish with that marinade, The sauce as above. - No. 31 Sturgeon Pai boiled. Bot ‘he sturgeon as you would any other fish,. Send up with Dutch sauce; mind that this fish is very firm, and re= quires more time to boil. . No. 32.—Carp au bleu, without Sauce. Take a fine carp, which empty without injuring the belly. Take off the gills, and after you have washed it clean, pour over it some boiling vinegar, by which means the scales will curl up, and the fish get a blue colour. Then wrap the carp up in a towel, and stew it in the court bouillon. (See No, 27, page 89). No. 33.—Carp farci, baked. TAKE a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then detach one side of the fillets, without injuring the head. Take this flesh, and that.of another carp of a smaller size, and make a farce in the following manner: take the crumb of two _ .penny loaves, soak it in cream or milk, then squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with an equal quantity of the flesh of the carp, nearly as much fresh butter, with a little chopt _ parsley, a few mushrooms fried in a little butter, salt, pep- per, and spice. When all these ingredients have been pounded in a mortar, add a couple of eggs, and continue pounding for a long time, then take a little, which throw into boiling water, and taste. If it be too delicate, which means too thin, add one egg more, pound it again, and then rub it through the sieve @ quenelles; and fill up the q | 91 ~ cavities in the fillets of the carp, giving it the shape of a fish. ‘Take care however to give it.a good shape. Next let it be done thorny | in he stl and serve it with caper sauce under mn we i ne > No. 34 — Carp, Sauce a Matelotte. Take a fine carp, scale and cindy it. Then let it stew in wine enough to cover it. After having drained it well, take that wine to make the sauces, and send it up covered with sauce d matelotte. (See Sauces). No. 35.—Broiled Carp, with Caper Sauce. ScaLeE and empty the carp. Wash it, and wipe it quite dry. Then marinade it in oil, salt, and pepper; a it and send it up with caper sauce as follows: No. 36.—Caper Sauce for Fish. TakE some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice capers, salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies, No. 37.— Tench. TrencH, in England, are eaten boiled, with a Dutch — sauce, yet they are far better en matelotte. : . No. 38.—Perch. — THeEsE likewise are sent up boiled, with Dutch sauce ; but you will find a different way to dress them in the fol- lowing entrée. . 92 No. 80.2ePerch aw WatenSuclen Scare and clean the perch as much as possible; then cut some parsley roots into small fillets; put them to boil with some parsley tied up in a bundle, and some salt, in a quantity of water sufficient to boil the perch. When the roots are done, put in the perch; ten minutes are sufficient. Have some parsley leaves blanched very green in salt and — _ water, drain the perch from all the liquid, and put it into a tureen; put the roots and parsley leaves to it, and throw the liquor over it through a silk sieve. Send up slices of bread and butter in a separate plate. | eed 93 CHAP. IV. FARCES, OR FORCED MEAT. ie — Ne 1 -—Quenelles of Veal. Tax the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with your knife till you have got off all the meat without the sinews. About half a pound of this raspt meat is sufficient for an entrée. Boil either in your stock-pot, or . in plain water, a calf’s udder. When it is cold, trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed through a sieve. All that part which has been thus strained through the sieve, you make intoa » ball of the same size as your meat, which you have also _ rolled into a ball; you then make apanade in the following manner: you must have three balls, one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada. | : Panadas for Farces in general. Soax in milk the crumb of two penny rolls for about half an hour; then take it out, and squeeze it to draw out all | the milk. Put that crumb into a stew-pan with a little béchamelle, a spoonful of consommé, some fine herbs, that is to say, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms, and if approved of, a few shalots or very small green onions chopped very fine. Stew these herbs in a little butter for a moment, to take away their rawness. Then set them to reduce with the panada, which you must keep stirring con- stantly with a wooden spoon. When the panada begins to 94 get dry in the stew-pan, put in a small lump of butter, which helps to dry the panada without its sticking to the pan. When it is quite firm, » take it off the fire, and mix with it the yolks of twoeggs. Then let it cool, to use it when wanted. The panada must always be prepared before hand, in order to have it cold, for it cannot be used when hot, or even warm. When the panada is cold, roll it into balls, the same as the two other articles, but let the balls be all of a size. Pound the whole in a mortar as long as pos- sible, for the more quenelles ate pounded, the more delicate they are. Then break two eggs, whites and yolks together, which you pound likewise; now season with pepper, salt, and spices in powder; when the whole is well mixed together, try a small bit, which you roll with a little flour ; then poach it in boiling water with a little salt. If it should not be firm enough, put another egg without beating the white, which only makes the quenelles flat, and hollow inside. When you have made the farce, rub it through a sieve. If you are in a hurry, you may use only crumb of bread soaked in milk without panada, but the panada is most tasty. Many persons who use the same ingredients as I do, but not in the same way, will perhaps feel inclined to censure my method; yet such as will adhere to it, will derive great benefit from it; the materials are to be well pounded and seasoned, tn : No. 2.—Quenelles of Fowl. THE queneiles of fowl are made with the fillets only, all: other parts being too full of sinews. Take the fillets of -_ young chickens, for you must never use those of an old” fowl, as they are tough and thready. Veal when very white, is much better than tough fowl. Cut this meat into dice and pound it in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a Se gn ae a da 95 sieve. Next make three balls, as you. have done for the quenelles of veal. Then pound, season, and try them in the same manner as directed above, as they must be made firm, or soft, according to the use they are intended for. Quenelles au consommé clarifié, for instance, must be very delicate and soft: If they are to be served in a ragovt, either white or brown, they must be made firmer, and soon. The farce a -quenelles i is much used in cookery. With it alone you may make various good entrées; and it serves besides to garnish ragottts, mateloties, godards, chambords, | patés } _ chauds, &c, &e. Observe particularly, that when you use ~ the quenelles very small, the farce may be very delicate, but if you make any boudin, or turban, or any other different kind of enirée, in proportion to the size of it you must keep the quenelles firm, which depends solely on their having more eggs; this addition makes the farce softer when raw, but increases its firmness when poached. * No. 3.—Quenelles of Rabbits. _ TuHE best quenelles are made with fillets only. If you are engaged by a nobleman who has game in abundance, take the fillets for the quenelles; with the legs and shoulders make a giblotte, or a pye English fashion for the servants, and with the remaining bony parts you make the consommé, When you lift up the fillets you must leave the sinews about the carcass. Pound the meat, and make a panada as for other guenelles. Take a calf’s udder likewise, which prepare as directed above. Quenelles differ in flavour and appellation, only in consequence of the meat of which they are made. Remember that the panada and calf’s udder are.indispensable articles. Follow what I have prescribed at No. 1, for the quenelles of veal, which I have mentioned the first, as being more frequently used than all others. They are very good and likewise very cheap, as veal is 66 always requisite for sauces and bith. Half or thtee« quarters of a pound of veal is no great drawback, neither can’ it weaken the sauce, although of service to Hoes several good entrées, as will be shown hereafter. , No. 4.—Quenelles of Partridges. ‘Take the fillets of three young partridges. Take off the _ skin and the sinews; cut the meat into dice, and pound it as directed above; rub this through a sieve. Scrape the bottom of the sieve, and make a ball of the same size as ‘those of the panada and udder. When you have mixed the three ingredients together, add two whole eggs, and the yolk of a third. Then season with pepper, salt; and allspice Try the quenelle as directed above. This farce will serve for different entrées, which are all to be found under their respective names in the article partridges. No. 5.—Farce of Fowl 2 la Cream. Make use of the panada and udder as mentioned above, but no herbs are required in the panada, instead of which put a little cream. Take the white flesh of a fowl that has been roasted; take off the skin and sinews, chop the meat very fine; then pound it as you do for other farces. Put in the yolks of four eggs, after the farce has been pounded, and well seasoned. Beat the whites of the eggs, and mix them gently with the rest, stirring the whole with a wooden: spoon. Use this farce when requisite. It is generally used for the fowl 2 la cream; if you have in the larder a cold roast fowl, you may make that entrée with it; empty the fowl, by cutting a square hole in the breast, the white flesh you make the farce with, and then replace it in the cavity, as directed farther on. — = ae : a ‘ - - * - = , ee i ee ee De eS ee ee eS ee ee Se ae te a Pe oF ty ee te st No. 6.— Farce . Gratin of Partridges, Rabbits, pad Fale, “Tar farce 2 gratin is made in the same mannef 4s the farce a la Créme, with the orily difference, that you must not beat the whites of the eggs, and that this farce is to be kept delicate and soft. Take the flesh of roasted chickens, or young rabbits, or young partridges, &c; ‘The manner of using it is explained in its proper place. This farce is intended for the stuffing of such articles as are not to be put on the fire again; such as calf’s ears, calf’s feet, sheep’s trotters en canelon, and risolles, as also quails, tongues, and. larks au gratin. There are some gratins that are also émincés, and are treated of in their proper places. Observe that this farce is indispensable i in good cookery. No, 7.—Boudins a la Richelieu. As soon as you have rubbed the farce a quenelles through a sieve; have some onions cut sideways into dices or filets, and that have been sweated white, which you must mix with the farce before it gets firm, to prevent the onion from breaking. The boudins &@ la Richelieu, are a farce a 'quenelles either of fowl or of veal; they are never made of game*, No. 8.—Boudins 2 la Sefton; Ark made with quenelles the same as those above, only instead of onions sliced sideways, put mushrooms, sliced in _ the same manner, and sweated white in butter. When you drain your mushrooms, preserve the liquor, which pour into * The beudins d la Richelieu, are most excellent eating. In France, they . are always ordered for delicate constitutions; the general observation, that ~ French cookery is too rich, is here particularly out of place, for there is neither fat not sinews, and very little seasoning in this dish, and it is of very easy digestion. H 98 the sauce that serves for the boudins. The flavour of mushrooms must prevail in these boudins, the same as that of onions prevails in the boudins @ la Richelieu, This enirée is very preferable to that with onions. No. :0.--+Qrienielles of THUMENed saetial ied ‘Taxe the fillets of four whitings. If ina Roman Catholic family on a fast day, instead of an udder use butter. The panada however is far superior. In either case you must soak the crumb of bread in some good milk, and squeeze it well in a towel. Do not put the same quantity of butter ‘as you would of udder, as the butter would not remain in. In every other respect these are made like other quenelles. No. 10.—Farce of Carp. | Take the flesh of two carps, which you must chop, ‘pound, and rub through a sieve. Soak some crumb of ‘bread in some good milk; havea few mushrooms and a ‘little parsley chopt very fine. Set the herbs to sweat ina little butter, over a very slow fire. Then let them cool in -ahair sieve. Next put the bread, that has been soaked and squeezed properly, with the flesh of the carp that has been rubbed through a tammy, into a mortar, with a lump of butter of about the same bulk as the flesh of the carp, and season with pepper, salt, allspice, three or four eggs, whites and yolks together; farces with butter, require more eggs than those with udder. Yet before you put more than three, you must try to roll some of the farce in a little “flour, and to poach it in boiling water. You then taste, and add to the seasoning if required. When completely done, — rub it through a sieve, and let it cool in the larder, and use it when you have occasion. This farce is used for petty patties of carp, We also make quenelles for matelottes, &c. ~ 99 eee es. No. 11 Biases de Hae Sor the Pate ‘a la | Mazarine, &c. Take three-quarters of a pound of very ‘white veal, a pound and a half of beef suet, which you strip of all the - sinewy skins ; chop the suet separately, and the veal the same. When you have chopt them both, take some herbs, such as parsley, shalots and mushrooms, which chop also very fine, and sweat in a little butter; mix the whole together, veal, suet, and herbs, and season with pepper and. salt. Then chop them again. Break two eggs, yolks and whites, and if the godiveau appears to be well mixed, put a little piece into the oven in a small tart mould. If it rises well, and is properly seasoned, that is a sign of its being done: if not, put it into the mortar again with a little milk or water. By dint of great practice, you acquire the facility of observing accidents which cannot be properly explained. In the summer season, for instance, the suet being very soft, you find more difficulty in using it. If you have any good ice, put some small pieces into the godiveau, to make the meat and suet combine the better, No. 12.—Green Marbled Farce. Make a farce a quenelles as directed above. Take part of it, and mix it with a verd de persil (See Sauces) which you have drained, in order that the water may not make the farce thinner. - If you wish to use it quite of a green colour, you mix it with the whole; but if you intend to mardle either galantines, or fillets of soles, you put on slightly a part white, and another green. Then roll and poach them, and when they are cut they look like marble. It is easy to ' conceive, that if you wish to make it marble-like, you must : | H2 | 100 alternate the green and white e, by laying 0 on the green at- occasional distances. ~ : No. 13.—Red Marbled Farce, Ts is much the same as the former. In France we make use of butter of craw-fish, for fowls a la Cardinale, or red and marbled farces. In England the eggs of lobsters are more frequently used, which are not amiss for farces of fish, and fowls, &c. ° ye No. 14,— Stuffing for Hare or Turkey. _ Taxn half a pound of beef suet, chopped very fine, some parsley, a little thyme, pepper, salt, the same quantity of crumbs of bread as of suet, lemon peel chopped very fine, an egg or two, and mix the whole with a little milk. It would not be amiss to pound the whole in a mortar for a- short time. ‘This farce may be used with baked pike, or with either roasted or boiled turkey, roasted hare, &c. ; in short, with all such articles as will be mentioned 1 in ‘this work, No. 15.—Farce for Pyes. Taxe an equal quantity.of veal and of fat bacon; chop them together, season them with pepper, salt, and allspice, but no herbs, which only prevent the pye from keeping. If it is however to be eaten immediately, you may introduce | some savory herbs, a little chopt parsley, and shalots, and make a pdté aux truffles, or chop some truffles which mix with the farce. 1n pies made of game you may chop some ham, but in those made of fowl, the saltpetre gives. — - : ne a ee ee eee Se >" a red colour to the meat, which can never look too white. | 101 / No. 16.—Farce for Sausages, SAUSAGES are composed of only hog’s flesh; but as it is not amiss to stuff turkeys with this farce, I have thought ‘proper to mention it here. Take all the tender parts of the ‘meat, the sinews being left aside when the hams and breasts ‘are cured, which will be found treated of in a separate article. Cut the whole of the meat into small dice; then eut nearly about the same quantity of fat into small dice also. Chop and mix them very fine together, fat and lean ; ‘season with pepper and salt, allspice, and a little mint chopt very fine. All these ingredients give the sausages a very pleasing taste. When you use the sausages direcily, you must moisten them with a little water or milk; they will keep two or three days, but then they must not be moistened. They are however not so good when kept. 4 102 CHAP. V. - ENTREES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. , BEEF. ~ No. 1,—Blanquette of Palates of Beef. Take six or eight palates of beef, rub them over with. salt, and stew them in a blanc, till you can take off the upper skin, When the palates are thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce @ blanquette, which is a sauce tournée reduced, that you have thickened. The palates of beef en blanquette are sent up to table ‘either in casserole au ris, ora a vol au vent, or a timbal. No. a londiand of Palates of Beef with Pease. Tuts is made nearly in the same manner as that above ; but previously to putting in. the thickening, you take a few spoonfuls of sweated pease intended for entremets, and reduce them with the sauce, that it may give the savour of the pease. Add a little salt and sugar. Enirées of this soréehould be sweet, and not briny. | No. 3.—Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Cucumbers. Prepare the palates of beef as for other blanquettes. Pare some cucumbers and cut them into the size of shilling pieces. Keep the parings to make a purée, which you throw into the sauce, to give it a taste of the cucumbers. : q : ; . . : t ee eS ee SS ae eee oe YS eee PS ae 103 Put the cucumbers into a good sauce tournée, a little sugar, and let them do; then drain them, and reduce the sauce separately, When done, and the sauce is thickened, put the liaison to it * ; throw into the sauce the cucumbers that _ are entire, and the palates of beef, and serve up in a deep dish, or in a vol au vent. a No. 4.—Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Truffles, THE palates to be prepared as above. Only in this case cut the truffles into the size of shilling pieces, and put them in butter and salt. Sauiez them on a brisk fire, till done. Let them have one single boil in the sauce, before you throw in the ae, then mix the palates and truffles Ph hs ae icles of Palates of Beef a Pliaticnne, Patates of beef are always prepared as directed at No. 1, The only difference consists in the cutting of them, and in the sauce with which they are sent up to table. Take some sauce d’atielets, (See Sauces) and after having cut the palates into square pieces of whatever dimension you may _ think proper, let them cool in the sauce. When quite - cold, run a silver skewer through them in a row, and cover all the meat with some of the sauce. Make the aftelets as smooth as possible with your knife. Next dip them into crumbs of bread, and make them quite square. Mind that _ both extremities are well covered with the crumbs; dip them a second time, into an omelette ; and again into the crumbs of bread ; let both ends of the skewers be remarkably clean. Then fry the palates to a fine brown colour, and serve them up with a brown Italian sauce under it. * As the cucumbers will always thin the sauce, do not Pu lem i youserveup. This entrée requirés’a little sugar. : _ 104 No. 6.—Palates of Beef au gratin, otherwise en Paupietie. - Have a good farce & quenelles ready ; cut the palates in slices of about an inch broad; spread some of the farce over the rough side of them; then put part of the farce into the middle of the dish, and erect all the slices of palates in the shape of a turban, after having stuffed and rolled them. Cover the whole with layers of bacon, and put the ‘dish into the oven, without allowing the contents to get brown. When the farce is done thoroughly, drain all the fat, take off the layers of bacon, clean the dish well, and mask the meat with a thick Espagnole, well seasoned. No. 7.—Miroton of Palaies of Beef, ¢ la Ude. Ussr a cutter both for the palates of beef and truffles, which are thus made into pieces of an equal size. Dress them en miroton. Then take a sufficient quantity of. mushrooms, also of the same size, to make a border round the dish: put in the middle a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, and palates of beef, and sauce the miroton with a pretty thick E'spagnole. Before you use any of the preceding articles, they must be all done, and then put a palate and’ then a truffle alternately, to the very top of it, . Keep the dish covered very warm, to prevent its drying, . No. 8.-—-Croquettes of Palates of Beef au velouté. Take all the trimming from the blanquettes, mirotons, &e. and chop them very fine. Have some mushrooms cut inta small dice, which fry white ina little butter. Then moisten with a little thin sauce tournée, and let them boil gently on the corner of the stove, that you may skim off the grease. Next reduce this sauce with a pint of cream: when it is got thick enough, throw the palates into the sauce, and RO bo ; let them boil for a moment, that they may taste of the sauce. Let this preparation cool in a plate. When quite cold, roll the whole into croquettes, either round or oval; dip them once into crumbs of bread, then into an Btn, and. into crumbs of bread again: then fry them till they are of a fine brown, and serve up with fried parsley, If you should not have quite enough of the palates, a sweet- — bread, or the trimmings of fow], will match the other ingre-_ dients very well. It is not extravagance in cookery that makes it better ; 3 you may give a capital dinner at a small expence, if you employ every thing in its proper place. No, 9.—Beef’s Tongue, Sauce hachée. _ TaxKra tongue that is quite fresh; let it disgorge, blanch it to take away the tripy taste it may have retained; then stew it in a good braize*. When done, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, and mask with the sauce hachée. (See Sauces). This is but a very common entrée. No. 10.—Miroton of Tongue with Turnips. Ler the tongue be stewed as above, and then get cold. Next cut it into scollops, dish it en miroton, and place the dish covered at the mouth of the oven. A short time before you send it up to table, glaze it with a light glaze, and pour into the middle l’haricot brun. (See Sauces). No. 11.—Miroton of Tongue with Sorrel Sauce. PREPARE the tongue as above, No. 10, only glaze it a little more, and lay thicker. Pour into the middle the puree of sorrel, * You must remember that every thing which is called braize, must be seasoned with carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and clove. (See Braize). 106 No, 12.—Miroton of Tongue with Spinach, TE same preparation as above, only use spinach, and let them be richer and more liquid than for an entremets. It is necessary to observe, that when spinach is used as sauce, it must be more tasty and liquid, than when it is used for garnishing round a tongue or ham. When for sauce, put a little more broth and seasoning, as it is to give taste and relish to whatever it is used with. No. 13.—Miroton of Red Tongue with mashed Turnips. Tuts is not a French entrée; I only mention it here, be- cause I have seen it sent up to well known epicures. Take the remnants of a tongue @ l’écarlate that is quite cold; cut it into round slices, dress it in a dish, and put it into the oven foramoment. Then glaze it, and serve it up with mashed turnips in the middle. No. 14.—Pickled Tongue, glazed and higarrée. Tuis is a’remove which is frequently used for family dinners. Take a large tongue @ l’écarlate, boil it well, then flay it, glaze it, and after having made it look quite neat, send it up with mashed turnips on one side, and mashed carrots, or carrots and spinach.on the other, &c. Mashed Turnips or Carrots—Peel some turnips, wash and boil them with salt and water; when properly done, press all the water out, and pound them well in a mortar, _then put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, half a pint of cream, and a tea- spoonful of flour to prevent the water from running out; _ mix and warm very hot, and use them when wanted. The same method exactly for. carrots. Never rub them through a sieve, 4 they then Decora, a & purée and not a mash. No. 15 —Filets Mignons of Beef sautés a la Lyonaise. TAKE the inside fillet of a sirloin of beef, and scollop, it of about the size of the palm of your hand. . Mark them in clarified butter, with a little salt and pepper, ina sautez pan; when dinner time is come sautez them and turn them over; when done on both sides, drain the butter and put a little glaze in its stead. Keep stirring the meat in the glaze with a little lemon-juice, and a small bit of fresh butter. Dish it en miroton, and pour the Lyonaise’in the sauiez pan with the glaze. When you have mixed that well, put that sauce in the middle of the filets mignons, and serve up quite hot, You must give that dish only when you have a rump of beef; the small fillet left to that part i is sufficient; it would be extravagant to spoil a sirloin. © No. 16.— Filet of Beef marinaded & la broche. - Taxe the same part as above, and take off the sinews. ~ Then lard it, and pickle it raw with an onion and a shalot ~ cut into slices, a little parsley, salt, pepper, vinegar, &e.5 let it marinade one day. Then roast and glaze it. Serve up with a poivrade. This dish is dressed in this way for those who like vinegar. You must sometimes omit the vi- _ negar, and put instead of it a little sweet oil; it prevents the meat from drying, and makes it tender, No. 17.—Ox Tail in Hochepot. Tue beef tail being a very plain and common dish, is seldom sent up otherwise than as a tureen, (See No. 19, Deep Dishes, page 66). 10S No. 18.—Miroton of Beef. WueEn you have some cold rump of beef left, cut it neatly into slices, and put them into a sauté pan, with alittle Espag- nole, or brown Italienne, some salt and pepper, and a little broth. Give them a few boils, and serve up quite hot. No. 19.—Kidney of Beef with Champaign Wine. , Take some kidneys that are of a nice light colour; take. off a little of the fat, mince it, and fry it white in a pan with a little chopt parsley, shalots, salt, pepper, &c.- When it is done enough, powder a little flour over it, and moisten with a glass of Champaign, and two or three spoonfuls of ~ : Espagnole. It must not boil any more, for it would get hard. But you must keep it hot, and serve it up, the same, We send this entrée up to table for breakfast only. No. 20.—Beef Steaks with Potatoes French Fashion. Take some thin slices of rump of beef, flatten them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, &c. Dip those slices into a little butter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. You must have some parsley chopt very fine with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When your beef steaks are done, put the above ingredients under the steaks, and all round fried potatoes of a fine brown colour. Beef steaks are also served with oysters, (See Sauces). No. 21.—Sirloin of Beef braized, TAKE that part of the beef that is between the rump and the first ribs. Turn it over on the filet mignon, and dress it in a good shape. | Mark it in a large braizing-pan with plenty of parings of veal, a large piece of the breast part. of bacon, a small bit of ham, a few carrots, onions, some par- 109 - sley roots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, spices of all sorts, and a ladleful of good broth. Cover the sirloin with bacon first, and then with two sheets of white paper, to prevent the fire that you are to lay over it making the meat look brown. When you have closed the braizing-pan, stick some slips of- paper all round, and stew the sirloin for four hours on a very slow fire. A moderately heated oven would be preferable. The braizing-pan must have boiled before you put it into the _oven. (See Sauces for the Godard). You are to garnish with pigeons & la gautier, large quenelles, larded sweet- breads, and especially large cocks’-combs, which slit into the fillet, when you are going to send up to table. . Ls. No. 22.—Roast Beef. In my former edition, I said very little on this subject, but I consider it now a part of my work that requires much. attention, as well for the cooking part, as for the manner in which it is sometimes spoiled at table. I recommend to the “cook, first to chuse a well covered sirloin, not weighing more ’ than twenty or twenty-four pounds, a larger piece is never well roasted, the time which it requires causes the outside to be too much done, while the middle remains quite raw. “The meat must be covered for one hour only with paper, to: prevent its taking too much colour; it is necessary to ob» ~ serve, that for large pieces the fire must not be toosharp, or the meat will be burned, before it is warm through; just be- fore you take it off the spit, spread some fine salt over it, and send it up very hot with gravy only. ‘This joint is often spoiled for the next day’s use, by an injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside cut, take the brown off, and help yourself to the next; by thus cutting it only on one side, you preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance likewise: by cutting it on the contrary, ” 110 down the middle of the joint, all the gravy rans out, andit 4 remains dry and void of substance, besides exhibiting a most unseemly aspect when brought 'to table'a second time. | No. 23.—Briskét of Beef, ala Flamande. SEE Removes, No. 3, page 68. No. 24.—Rib of Beef’ braized en Hochepot. Take about'four ribs of beef: ‘pare the thick part, lard them with thick bacon, and braize them in the same man- ner as you would do ‘the rump. Send up with glazed onions, or cabbages, or hochepot, or a sauce hachée, round it. Observe that you are not to detach the ribs, which are to be served flat, as if they were mutton chops. 3 ‘No. 25.—L’ Enire-Céte of Beef broiled, Sauce hachée. TakE the slice which lies between two ribs of beef, flat- _ ten it well in a good shape, and broil it. -If it be thick you must have a gentle fire to heat it through; if it be thin, the fire must be brisk, or it will not get a good colour, nor eat so well, The entre-cédte is a most tender eating. 111 CHAP. VI. ENTREES OF MUTTON, eee MUTTON AND LAMB. Ir is necessary to observe to the junior cook, that almost every thing which is made with mutton, may be made also with lamb; with this only difference, that lamb being the tenderest meat, if requires less doing. If you make haricot of lamb, you must sautéz the cutlets first, and then boil them in the sauce of huricot (See Haricot), the epigram is always made with lamb, as it requires 4 blanquette in the middle’ of the chop. Mutton is too highly coloured for it. No. 1.—Mution Cutlets a la Soubise. TAKE a neck of mutton, and cut the chops one by one without flattening them; cut off some of the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Put them into a stew-pan with all the parings, together with the parings of the onions for the soubise. Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of — parsley and green onions, salt, and a very small quantity of ‘spice, &c. throw in four or five spoonfuls of good broth, to braize them. When done drain them, and. let them cool. Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to glaze. Next pare the chops nicely and put them with the glaze. This being completed, dish them en miroton, and ‘pour the soubise into the middle. 112 Some persons take two necks of esuitigil cut two bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above ; > but mutton being in general fat, is better without being larded. With regard to the two bones, you must flatten them as above, for if they are too thick you cannot dish them well. Another, and a much better Method of preparing Cutlets a la Soubise. Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when you wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and put them into a stew-pan, where they may all lye flat.. Put an onion or two, a few carrots tournées, a little salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions seasoned, four or five spoonfuls of good consommé *, and sweat the whole till it is entirely done, Then take out the roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a large fire. When entirely @ glace, lay them on.a cover to drain the fat, and serve up before they can. get dry. — This method is preferable to the other. You must not in either case lard your chops with bacon. No. 2.—Cutlets en Haricot Vierge. Prepare the chops as above. Braize them in the same manner. As many people object to onions, serve. them with a haricot vierge instead of a'soubise. (See Sauces). No. 3.—Cutlets @ la Minute. Take the best part of a neck of mutton that has been kept for awhile. Cut the chops one by one, and pare them — as nicely as you can. Season them with pepper and salt, * Be on your guard against using old broth: if you have no fresh brotli, put water. Old broth turns the cutlets red. 113 dip them into some clarified butter, and broil them over a brisk fire. Serve up with a very strong gravy of veal, well seasoned. Observe that cutlets d-la-minule, to be good must not be too much trimmed, and you must leave a little _ fat to them; they are dipt in élarified butter to prevent them from drying. . . No. 4.—Cutlets a V’Italienne, Arx prepated ds above, but are to be dipt into crumbs of bread. After having dipt them once into the crumbs; repeat the same operation in clarified butter and crumbs a second time, and then broil them. Lastly, press them be- — tween two sheets of brown paper to take out all the fat, and serve up with brown Italienne. (See Sauces). No. 5.—Lamb Cutlet Epigram:. _ THs are nearly the same as in No. 3. Only you serve in the middle a blanquette of lamb, cut out of the shoulder — or any other part of the lamb. No. 6.—Cutlets en Haricot brun. _ Many people braize and glaze them, and put the haricot brun in the middle, but I will explain the manner in which — they are to be prepared, in order that they may taste of the turnips. Cut the chops as in No. 1, pare the bones nicely, then fry them ina little butter, of a nice brown colour, drain the butter, and make a roux very blond; that is to say, put into the same stew-pan a small bit of fresh butter and a spoonful of fine flour; put this over a moderate fire, and turn it with a wooden spoon till the flour is of a very nice brown colour, then moisten with some gravy of veal of a fine colour, well seasoned. When the sauce boils, throw in the chops, and the trimmings of the turnips, let them stew gently on the corner of the stove. Skim the sauce , 114 frequently; when the chops are nearly done, drain them in a clean stew-pan. Have ready some turnips turned in ~ whatever shape you think proper, but they must not be too small for this entrée; drain the sauce through a tammy over the turnips and chops, which stew in this sauce with a little sugar; continue skimming frequently. When the turnips are done as well as the chops, keep them warm au bain marie, till you serve up. ’ N. B.—Some people fry the turnips in butter to make them brown, which is useless, as they will look very well, provided the gravy of veal is of a fine colour. No. 7.—Cutleis sautées a l’ Essence. Pare them as in No. 3, mark them in a cutlet pan with clarified butter. Sautez them over a brisk equal fire. Drain part of the butter; put one or two spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little glaze into the cutlet pan with the juice of a lemon. Keep stirring the whole over the fire, but do. not let it boil. Dish and send up instantly. N. B.—If these are kept waiting they are spoilt. They are fine eating however for such people as like their meat under-done : but if they are over-done, they have no more. . savour than cork or leather. No. 8.—Cételettes a la Maintenon. Pare the chops as in No, 3. Chop fine, some sweet herbs such as parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little butter. When they are done, fry the chops a little in that seasqning till nearly done, let them cool, then wrap them up in paper, and broil them over a slow fire. This entrée | cannot much approve of, on account of the greased “paper which is to appear at the table. But some persons like them. ‘TIS ppenweses : 2 . i. ee 7 No. 9. —The inside Filets a la Maréchale, Tas inside fillets a mutton are to be taken off from under the sirloin ; take off all the fat ; flatten the fillets with the handle of your knife, and dip them into crumbs of bread and salt and pepper, and then into clarified butter, and crumbs again. After having broiled them of a fine colour, | - sauce them with the maréchale. The maréchale for this, is tarragon vinegar reduced in a small stew-pan, and moistened with three or four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and a little Cayenne pepper. No. 10.—The inside Fillets marinaded. You must have the fillets of four saddles of mutton, which of course produce eight jilets mignons. Lard them inthe same manner as fillets of rabbits, next pickle them in a marinade crue, such as thyme, parsley, bay-leaves, onions, salt, pepper and vinegar. When they have been laying for two or three hours in this marinade, mark them in a sauté pan between two layers of bacon, and bake them. When done, glaze them, and serve them up with a poivrade | under them. Observe, that this entrée is only to be served in a family, where you give saddle of mutton to the | nursery, or to the servants; in that case, you take off the inside fillets. You may leave the fat to the saddle, and only take off the fillets. No. 1].—The inside Fillets with purée of Sorrel. THEsE are to be pared and larded as in No. 10. Mark them as a fricandeau, by which is meant, that you must make a bed of roots in a stew-pan ; these you cover with a second bed. of layers of bacon; then lay the larded fillets on the bacon, and powder them over with a little salt. Moisten 12 116 but little. They only require one hour to be done, between - two fires, one on the top, another at bottom. When they - are done, reduce the liquor and put the fillets into that glaze. Serve under them-the purée of sorrel. N. B.—They are also sent up with endive, or with the Soubise, or Macédoine. No. 12.—Necks of Mutton en Aigreties. = =~ Take the best part of two necks of mutton, pare the fillet, lard it as a fricandeau; take off the upper skin of the flank; then take a piece of cold veal, or a piece of cold bouilli beef, which cut round, a little larger than your hand. Wrap this beef up in a very thin layer of bacon. Next turn the mutton with the larded fillets downwards, and the fat upwards: mark this in the same manner as the inside fillets with vegetables. When they are done, glaze themof a nice colour, then take out the beef and the bacon, and in the middle pour a Macédoine or any other sauce. No. 13.—The Neck of Mutton with Parsley. _ “Taxe the same two parts as above; after having taken. off the bones, take off also the sinews, as if you were going to lard them. Have in readiness a few branches of parsley, quite green, with which you lard the fillet only, but very thick, for when well done the parsley is diminished consi- derably, as it gets dry. Before you spit the mutton it must be marinaded in oil and salt, an onion cut into slices, &e. The oil makes the parsley crisp, and preserves its green colour. Send up with a poivrade, or an Espagnole. (See Sauces). No. 14.—Les Carbonades a la Jardiniére, Take a saddle of mutton, and cut off the skin that is over the fat without stripping the fillet. Cut the saddle in I Sk RT Fp ae Gt aS 117 two, and each of these two into three; braize them as the mutton a la Soubise ; do not leave too much fat, glaze them of anice colour, and serve them with the pea, Fam or the Jjardiniére, or endive, &c. | N. B.—This entrée, although frequently sent to table in France, is not often introduced in this country. It may be sent up with sorrel, or with any sauce whatever. » No. 15.—The Breasis ef Mution a la Ste. Menoult. -THEsE are to be braized with carrots, onions, spices, —&e. When they are well done, drain them. Take out the bones and let the meat cool between two dishes, that it may be kept flat. When cold, cut them into the shape of hearts, rounds, or into chops, just as you like, Brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and then dip them into crumbs of bread; next dip them into clarified butter, and give them _ another coat of bread crumbs. Put them into the oven to — give them a fine brown, and serve them up with a sauce ; hachée, or an Italienne, or en haricot. . This is also a mon dish, 3 No. 16.—Musette of Mutton with Endive. TaKE a shoulder of mutton that has been kept for some while; bone it without taking off the thin skin that is found near the joint; powder it over with a little pepper and salt, Then pass a piece of packthread round, as tailors do round a button, fasten the packthread, and mould the shoulder of mutton quite round. You must preserve the knuckle so that it may resemble a bagpipe. Braize it, and season it well, After having drained and glazed it, send it up with either endive or sorrel. ‘NN. B.—It may also be stuffed'and larded, and a flowret larded in the top ang and sent oe with white beans @ la Lyonaise, 18 No. 17.—Sheep’s Tongues with Turnips. Taxes eight tongues of an equal size; let them disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, mark them in ‘a stew-pan, to braize them. In case you should have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or.any others, as they will all equally answer the purpose for sheep’s tongues, when they are done, peel them and cut them in two. Dish them en miroton, and mask them with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. No. 18.—The same with Cabbage Lettuces. THE tongues are to be braized as above, the same as those you wish to cook in any way whatever. Take a dozen and a half of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very clean, and blanch them. When they are cold, and you have squeezed all the water out of them, open them in two, take off the stalks, powder a little salt and pepper over them; then shut them and give them a good form; mark them in a stew-pan, surrounded with layers of bacon ; moisten them with a little braize, or a poéle, or any thing to give them a good taste; otherwise take the pot-top, with alittle broth and salt. When the lettuces are quite done drain them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. i : lt | Dish them en rosates, Soe namely, a tongue, a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a large tongue in the middle, to improve the look of the rosate. Another time, cut the tcngues in two, and dish them en miroton, that is, one half of a tongue, and a lettuce alternately. In this case, put a jardiniére in the middle, and mask* both the tongues and the lettuce with the Espagnele. * Mask signifies, cover with the sauce. 119 No, 19.—Sheep’s Tongues au gratin. ‘Cur as many bits of bread in the shape of cocks’-combs, as you have tongues. Take some farce fine. (See Chap. IV. No. 6). Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish, and dress the tongues in the said farce, leaving however room enough between to place one of the toasts; then put the dish into the oven. When the farce and tongues are done, take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease ; they must be covered ‘with bacon, in order that they may not get dry, (unless a mould may be procured to close her- metically) ; you then put your toasts, fried of a fine brown colour between each tongue, and the sauce with a thick essence, Mind that the tongues must be braized before, with whatever sauce you serve them. No. 20.—Sheep’s Tongue & la Maintenon. THE tongues are to be cut in two, and put into a dusselle, or in fine herbs, the same as chops d la Maintenon. When you put any meat en papillotes, you must use as great a quantity of fine herbs as possible, (as No. 8), No. 21.—Hashed Mutton. WHEN you know that you will have hashed mutton to make, be careful to keep some good gravy, then cut the skin off, and the sinews; leave as much fat as you can find in the inside of the leg; cut the meat into small flat bits, season with a little salt and fine pepper, spread a little fine flour over the meat, mix all very well, then moisten with the gravy; if you have no gravy, you must have a little broth and a small bit of glaze or portable soup; do not let it boil, for it will make the meat very tough, 120 No. 22.—Minced Mutton with Cucumbers. Roast a leg of mutton that has been kept for along time. When under-done, let it cool; when quite cold, pare the sinews, skin, fat, &c. &c. next make'a mince, which throw into the sauce with cucumbers 2 l’Espagnole. (See Sauces). | No. 23.—Minced Mutton with Endive. ‘Tus is to be prepared in the same manner as all other minces of mutton. Only observe that minces of black meat, as we call them, require brown sauces; and that the meat must never beil a second time, as it would Honrrtee tough. ‘No. 24,--Sheep’s Tails with purée of Green Pease. _Diseores the tails in water to draw out the blood; next blanch them, and braize them in an old braise; otherwise they are to be seasoned with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When done, drain and glaze them. Then let them get a little dry in the oven, Put the purée of green pease under them ; the same if you use the purée of sorrel, : No. 25.—Sheep’s Tails & la St. Laurent, BraizE them in the same manner as those above; drain them and let them cool. Mind to give them a pleasing shape. Next brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and dip them into crumbs of bread. Then dip them into clari- fied butter and crumbs of bread again. Put them into the oven till they are of a fine brown, if your oven is hot enough; if not, broil and sud them up with rich gravy, oF an Italkenne, 7 : : Se ee ee ee ee ee a 121 _N.B.—The entrées of mutton, from No. 17 to this last number, are not very frequently sent up to table in England, but in France they are held in high estimation. The tails are served in different ways, but the most commendable i is with green pease, and purées of all sorts. No. 26 Sheep’ s Brains en Matelotte. Tricia the brains from the head without breaking them. Put them into a Jarge vessel with some luke-warm water; take off the skin and let them disgorge for two hours. When they are become quite white, boil them in water, vinegar, and salt, and when they are done, serve them up_ with a sauce that is called matelotte, which i is to be made as follows. Have a good Espagnole, glaze some small white onions, (See oignons bruisés) and a few mushrooms in the sauce, together with a few cocks’-combs. Dish the brains in flowrets, with some bits of fine bread in the shape of a cock’s-comb between each; then mask with the sauce, and Jet the ingredients, or ragowdt, be put in the middle. | Observe, that any ragodt of this sort must be well seasoned ; a little Cayenne is not amiss, No. 27.—Sheep’s Trotters a la Poulette. Take a dozen of sheep’s trotters well scalded. Wash — them in boiling water; and stew them in a blanc (See a blanc calf’s head). When well done, take some sauce tournge well reduced, to help the thickening, into which you -have put a little chopt and blanched parsley, with the juice of alemon; then throw the trotters into this sauce after having them well drained. If you should happen to have no sauce tournée, make a little white roux, moisten it with good consommé, seasoned with a bunch of parsley and small onions, and a few mushrooms. | Let this sauce stew on the corner of the stove; skim the grease, and after 122 having reduced it to a proper state for the thickening to be thrown in, drain the sauce through a tamneniyy and put the trotters into it. No. 28.—Sheep’s Trotters en Canelons.. Take some sheep’s trotters as above, and stew them in ‘the same manner; but do not let them be over done, as — they are to be stuffed with a farce, which could not be done in the latter case. Introduce. the farce & quenelles in the room of the bones. When the trotters are well stuffed, put them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with a ‘ poéle. Stew them for half an hour only, on account of the farce. Drain them, and mask them with a sauce well sea-. soned, either white or brown, according to your taste. As these are to be served whole, when you bone them, mind you do not injure the skin, for they would not hold the forcemeat that you must put in. Observe, that this is a “most excellent dish, as well for the taste as for health. It is particularly good for weak stomachs. | No. 29.—Sheep’s Trotters fried, _ ARE to be prepared in the same manner as the preceding. Make a marinade cuite, and leave the trotters it it to mari- nade. ‘Then drain them, and dip them into a paste; fry them of'a fine brown, and when well drained send them up, with parsley fried green in the middle, : For a marinade cuite, take carrots, onions, a little parsley roots, a clove, a little thyme, a bit of bay-leaf, and a shalot, which mix together. Fry them a little, but not brown, in a little butter. When the roots begin to colour, moisten with half water and half vinegar; let the roots and vegeta- bles get quite done; season with pepper and salt, and drain ey ee | ee PS ee ee ee ee lt he oe it through a silk sieve over whatever you may chuse to © marinade, 123 Paste for frying or batter—With regard to the batter intended for frying marinades, fritteaux, &c. put about four | spoonfuls of flour into an earthen-pan, with a little salt, a Tittle olive oil, and moisten with a sufficient quantity of water or good beer, that the paste may not cord. When | the flour is well mixed, beat the whites of two eggs, which mix with the paste, and then put in, whatever you may wish to fry; let it be done instantly, however. This method is preferable to any other, except perhaps such as may be Te- Papeeoensed for artichokes, orlies, &e, &e. &c. No. 30.—Sheep’s Kidneys broiled. Taxe some kidneys that have been kept for a while, cut them i in two, and use a small skewer to keep them open, in imitation of two shells; powder them over with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little melted butter, and broil them just as you are going to serve up. Broil the side that you have cut open first: when you broil the other side, the whole of the gravy issues on the upper part. Mind — when you take them off the fire, that the gravy does not drop off. Have some parsley chopt very fine, mixed with fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, and salt; puta little of that mixture over each kidney, and send up to Paton in a hot dish. N, B.—Kidneys are an excellent breakfast for sportsmen, but are seldom sent up to dinner. They must be eaten di- rectly, as they lose their goodness by waiting. No. 31.—Sheep’s Kidneys with Champaign, ~ ARE “bf Mag in piel respect as at No, 19, Entrées of Beef, . " ‘tie f No. 32. —Leg of Mutton braized, called generally de : Sept Heures. a. Sze Removes of Soup, No. 7. No. 33.—Leg of Mutton, fate or stuffed. Take a leg of mutton, bone it without damaging the skin, cut off all the fat; then take some fat bacon, about one-third of the quantity of the inside meat: chop the bacon and the meat together, season the whole well, with chopped parsley in the far ce, or force-meat; next stuff the skin of the leg of mutton, sew it ee wrap’ the whole in a cloth, and braize it as a gigot de sept heures. Drain ita short time before you serve up, in order to be enabled to take off the packthread. Then glaze and serve up with the Lyonaise. The Lyonaise is as follows: take one quart of white haricot beans, put them into soft water for three hours, then put them into cold soft water, to boil with a very small bit of butter; when done, mince one very large white onion, and fry it in half a quartern of fresh butter; when the onion is well done, put to it a spoonful of flour, moisten with some good gravy, and leave the flour to be well done; then put a few haricot beans with it, and rab it through a sieve or tammy ; after this drain the haricot beans well, and put them into that purée, well seasoned with salt and pepper. No. 34.—Boiled Neck of Mution, Take from the best part of a neck of mutton, the skin and the bones, which are unsightly. Boil it for an hour and a half. Then send it up with turnips mashed with a little butter and cream. 195 No, 35.—Boiled Leg of Mutton. THE same as the above, only boil longer according to the size: and mind, not to boil it too fast, as it will be tough, and white; but if you boil it gently, it will be always ae Pigg” ae 126 _ CHAP. VIL. ENTREES OF VEAL. ek Ir is necessary to observe, that the veal you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence ; but lam sure that very white veal is more healthy than common veal ; red veal will disorder a great many stomachs, white never does. | No. I1.—Veal Cutlets broiled, a V Italienne. Take the best part of a neck of veal; cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and pare them nicely. Next dip them into butter, and broil them on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown colour. Do not forget to powder them with a little pepper and salt before you dip them into the butter, and send them to table with a brown Italienne, ; or Espagnole, or gravy. No. 2.—The same, a la Vénitienne, dites aux fines Herbes. Take the same part as above; when the cutlets are well pared, take a quarter of a pottle of mushrooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole very fine, sepa- rately, rasp a little fat bacon, and a small bit of butter, and stew these fine herbs on a slow fire. As soon as they are done, put the cutlets with them, and stew them over.a small stove. When they are done, and well seasoned with salt 127 and pepper, skim off as much fat as you can, put in a spoonful of sauce tournée, and thicken your sauce with the yolk of three eggs, mixed with a little cream, and the juice of a lemon: add a little Cayenne pepper to it. No. 3.—The same, a la Dauphine.* _ Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them on one side only, but all on the same side: lard them like a fricandeau, only let the bacon be cut finer; let them be braized also in the same manner as a fricandeau; then reduce the liquor in which they have been stewed, with which you glaze them. Serve up with either endive or sorrel. No. 4.— The same, a la Mirepoix. Pur a little fresh butter, a few small shreds of ham, alittle thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few stalks, or a bunch of parsley, into a stew-pan. Then put the cutlets, _ which have been pared and seasoned as above, over the ham and butter. Next sweat them on a very slow fire. When they are done, drain the grease; pour in two spoonfuls of Espagnole, and one spoonful of consommé, to detach the . glaze, and the juice of alemon. Send up the cutlets co- vered with this sauce, after having taken out the thyme and bay-leaf. If you choose to serve up the ham cut into fanciful figures, you may. No. 5.—Veal Cutlets a la Maintenon. . TuHEsE are to be prepared in the same manner as desc | at No. 2. When they have been stewed for a short time * Observe, that part of the veal is always the best for fricandeau, which is intermixed with fat. I never had any other fricandeau served at {the United Service Club. The other way of making /ricandeau is thready and dry. 128 with the fine herbs, let them cdol; then cut some bacon into hearts, which you put on each side of the cutlets, to prevent the paper from catching fire; then wrap them well in the paper, and rub the paper with oil, and broil-them on a very slow fire. , No. 6.—Veal Cutlets & la Chingara. Parez six cutlets as above. Sweat them with a little butter and ham; when they have been well seasoned, and are done, cut some slices of tongue @l’écarlate of the size of the cutlets, which you glaze, and with which each cutlet is to be covered. Serve them up with an essence detached from the glaze of the cutlets. No. 7.—Veal Cutlets a la Dreux. TuEsk are to be cut very thick, and larded with large slips of ham. Season and mark them wrapt up in bacon and carrots, onions, thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, &c. Lay the trimmings on the top, and moisten with two spoonfuls of good broth; let them stew over a very slow fire. When they are done, lay them in a dish to cool. Next pare them of an agreeable shape, and put them into the glaze of the liquor which you have reduced. When dinner time is at hand, glaze them of a fine brown, and serve up with an Espagnole, or sauce hachée, or any other sauce. No. 8.~-VFeal Cutlets a la Chdlons: f _ Purse are prepared in the same manner as those above, No. 7. The only difference is, that they are larded chequer- like, with pickled cucumbers, ham, and fat bacon, and that the former are larded with ham alone. Serve them up with a sauce hachée, or purée of sorrel. divs ee ee ee oe a | a 129 Tae Ty a | Beep ey io) 9. Veal Cutlets ala Financitre, veo ew, . ‘Turse are to Be prepared, Resa done, and nina: as those 2 la Dauphine; put under them a ragout a la finan- éidre, (See Sauces) and between each cutlet a large quenelle.- (See Sauces}. | No. 10.—WNeck of Veal a la Cream*. - Take the same part as is used for the cutlets; cut the bones short enough to be enabled to roll the flanks under- | neath: give it a square shape; and marinade it for a couple of hours, with oil, parsley, sliced shalots, pepper, salt, thyme, and bay-leaves. Fasten it on the spit, so that the shape is not _ altered, and then wrap it up in buttered paper. When roasted for about an hour and a quarter, take off the paper. lave ready a velouté reduced, which you pour over it, and with whieh you baste it till the sauce adheres all round ; then serve up with a velouté under it. Be aM st Necks af. Veal asi, Mirepaiti “Make a mirepoiz as follows, with rasped bacon, butter, bit of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, pepper, salt, &c. Fry the whole on a slow fire. When that is done, put the necks of veal fried with it; only stew it a little; and let it cool. When cold take two sheets of white paper, butter one of r ther, and trim it with layers of bacon. Then lay thé mire- poix over the bacon, and close the paper her ay: Ay Aap the whole up in several sheets of paper, and bake it in an oven, which however must not be too hot. It will be done in an hoar and a half’s time. When done take off the paper, and send up to table with an Espag nee or an _* 4 la ¢réam will sound very bad to an English ear; but as this sauce gives its name to the dish, it must retain the French appellation. K 130 Ttalienne. As mirepoie is the name of the seasoned fat sub- stance put round the meat to prevent its drying, and also to give it taste, you must remember to make no more than is wanted for the size of the entrées you intend to make. Half. a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, salt, pepper, &c. are sufficient for this. No. 12.—Neck of Veal & la Barbarie. Tum the neck of veal as above. Cut some black truffles into nails, and with these lard the meat. Put them so as to represent a draft-board. Braize the meat as you would do a fricandeau, but it requires bacon on the'top, that the veal may retain its white colour, and the trufiles their black one. When done glaze it slightly, and serve under it an ftalienne with truffles, or the sauce hachée. No. 13.—Neck of Veal a la Ste. Menhouli. Braize a neck of veal as above, but without larding it. Send it up glazed with any sauce you may fancy. If it is” returned untouched, make a sauce d’attelets, with a little sauce tournée, and a little white Italienne (See Sauces), which reduce on the fire. When the sauce is quite thick, throw into it the yolks of two eggs. Spread this sauce over the necks of veal, cover it likewise with crumbs of bread; then have a little melted butter, and strew some more crumbs over it, and moisten it by using,the brush, dipped in the butter. _When the meat is thus well soaked, put it into the oven to give it a good colour, or use the salaman- der. Send it up with a sauce hachée. N. B.—All the entrées of veal, such as carrés, fricandeaux, : cotelettes, sweetbreads, &c. are served up with all sorts of purécs, and la Macédoine, in the summer season. It is useless to multiply these articles when they may he ex- BY - . F ee ee PS eee ee ay J | 4 13] plained more briefly: by changing the sauce, you cha ange isa appearance aa the dish, a ‘NEL No. 14.—Le Fricandeau aux différentes Purées. FRICANDEAU is a very good entrée when made with due care and attention, but it is seldom dressed to that degree of perfection which it requires. To make a good fricandeau, the veal must be of the best - quality, which you may know by the meat being white, and not thready. ‘Take off the skin of a noix de veau*, flatten it on a cloth or a clean towel, then at one stroke, level it with your knife, for a fricundeau that is cut off at several. times never looks so well. When you have pared the top part, turn it round, make slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Next lard it very thick, which in general is not properly done in England. The conse- quence is, that the bacon not being laid sufficiently cross- wise, the shreds shrink, and cannot be properly glazed. Never blanch the fricandeaw after it has been larded, as some people do, but mark it in a stew-pan large enough to | contain the fricandeau, besides plenty of roots cut into slices, such for instance as two carrots, two large onions, and some roots of parsley, besides a small quantity of mace, allspice, thyme, bay-leaves, and whole pepper. Put all these on the bottom of the stew-pan, with layers of very fat bacon on the top of !the vegetables, as lean bacon gives a red co- lour to the fricandeau. When you have thus well covered the roots, erect a small dome in the centre, lay the fri-. , candeau over the bacon, powder a little salt over it, and * Noir de Veau—the leg of veal is ‘divided into three distinct fleshy parts, besides the middle bone; the larger part, to which is attached the udder, is what is called a noiz, the flat white part under it, sows noix, and the side part, contre noiz.. For these three parts the English have no name ‘by which the French appellations may be rendered, K 2 132 oisten with a sufficient quantity of brotlr ‘to cover, the roots without reaching the said fricandeau. ‘I hen put a great deal of fire on the cover of the stew-pan, keeping very. little beneath the stew-pan. It is not amiss to observe, that the fricandeau being done in this way, retains a good shape, and : all its gravy. ~ If you should wish to cook it as I am farther pare to direct, the moment it is parte (which signifies, when it begins to boil) put it over avery slow and equal fire, for three hours and a half, if it is not very large. Baste it frequently with the liquor: then take a needle a brider, which run through the middle: if it gets in and comes out. easily, the fricandeau i is done enough. Now puta great deal of fire. ‘ever it to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when you glaze it. The liquor must be reduced to be used as glaze for the fricandeau; it being more tasty than any other glaze. Serve up with it such purée as the season will afford, or the Macédoine, &c. N. B.—The fricandeau may vary with regard to the shape, but the savour is always the same, if it is done properly. If for instance a fricandeau is to be served when there is a _ grand party, it is requisite to give it another shape than for a family dinner. Though an expensive dish when. served alone, it becomes rather cheap if there is a grand dinner, as veal in abundance is wanted to make the broths and sauces. The noix de veau besides glaze, will supply a very elegant and good entrée. In the summer season give it the shape of a turtle. Cut off part of each extremity of the fricandeau, take the tops of asparagus, which you lay be- neath, after having poured the Macédowne into the dish. . Have four braized lettuces ready, put one at each corner, as sham claws. Asparagus and lettuce eat well with a - Macédoine, and of course they may be used without any danger of their being disapproved of. In the winter season snake quenelles of veal, which place instead of the above- 183 mentioned articles, and serve up with an 1 Espagnol ; ba the proper sauce is sorrel. ae other Method. ‘Wuen the fricandeau is fully larded, split it through the middle. Take a very large turnip, or a piece of cold veal, which has been used to make a sauce, cut either round or oval, wrap it up in bacon, and thrust it within the cleft, as you have done in the fricandeau. Mark this as the ‘other, and let it be done in thesame manner. You must observe that it will be done sooner, that is, in less time. Glaze it. Now take either French beans or asparagus; place ‘them | erect inside of the two extremities of the cleft, and pour a S of on _ Macédoine between, with a very large sweetbread larded and glazed over the middle, which produces a very pleasing effect. ~ The same may be he for a fricandeau en pie, with a blanquetie in the middle. No, 15.—The Grenadins of Veal with the purée of White i’ 4 (1 needigilia at - WE call grenadins small fillets of veal larded as a frican= deau, cooked and sauced in the same manner. Outofa noix of veal you may make two or three grenadins, according ; to its size. It is no easy matter to explain the manner of “cutting them ; let it suffice to say, that being much thinner than a fricandeau, they naturally are done in less time. ol _ They are served up with a Macédoine, or with all sorts of | | purées. No, 16.—The Noix of Veal en Bédeau, — Ir is so called, because in France the parish beadles wear gowns of two colours, one half of one alo the other half of another. 134. Take the noix of a young heifer, and trim it as follows. If intended for an entrée, choose the smallest you can pro-- — cures if for a remove, the largest that can be got. Flatten — et it a little, retaining the udder. Form a crescent on the border of the fat, and pare that part where there is no fat. Lard it as a fricandeau ; let it be done in the same manner, — only cover with bacon the part that is not larded, in order to keep it white, and glaze it slightly when done. Being done in the same style as the fricandeau, it is served up with the same sauces. .* No. 17.—Veal & la Bourgeoise. ‘Tnx only part which I could’ wish to recommend in this case is the cassis*, which is fat, and a luscious eating. It — is not generally sent up when there is a grand dinner, but for a family dinner it may. prove very acceptable indeed. The plain way of cooking this, I reckon the best, and will explain it accordingly. ‘Take a stew-pan large enough to make the veal firm in a little butter, by frying; when itis of ~ a fine brown colour all round, put in a few carrots, onions, spices, a little lean bacon, and two calf’s feet seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme, &c. Moisten with two spoonfuls of broth or water, and let the whole stew for a couple of hours _ on a very slow fire. When done, drain the fat, take out the spice and serve up the veal, with the roots aaan the gravy all round, No. 18.—Sweetbreads a la Dauphine. Ir you use round dishes, you must have four sweetbreads 5 if a long dish, three large ones will be sufficient. Mind, at any rate, to select them of a mie size ane ile white. ® I call cassis, that part which is attached to the tail end of a loin of weal; thesame part of beef is called the rump. 135 Pare the sinews and Toit fat; throw them into warm water to draw out the blood, and make them as white as possible. — When thoroughly disgorged, blanch them a little in boiling water to make them firm, that you may lard them with greater facility. As soon as they are larded, rub a stew-pan all over with butter, cut a few carrots and onions over the butter ; cover this with some fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads over the bacon, powder them over with salt, and stew them with a great deal of fire on the top, and very little beneath. When they are of a fine brown, cover them with a round of paper, and lessen the fire on the top. If they are gee it will require three-quarters of an hour to do them. If they are too much done they become soft, and are not so palat- able. When properly done, drain them, and put them ina pan with some glaze, and the bacon beneath, Leave them in the glaze till dinner time; then drain them afresh, and glaze them of a fine brown, Serve them up with sorrel or endive, | No, 19.—Sweetbreads & la Financiere. ‘Turse are to be larded and done in every respect as those _ above. Send up with a fine quenelle between or in the middle, and under them the ragovit a la financiére, or the ragott a UV Allemande. No. 20.—Sweetbreads a la Dreux, Let the sweetbreads disgorge till they are quite white, Then blanch them thoroughly, which is known by their becoming quite firm. Then set them to cool in cold water, Lard them with ham, chequer-like, very close to the level of the sweetbreads, mark the sweetbreads between layers of bacon ; moisten with a good braize if you have any, if not, the same as the other, and stew them for three-quarters of an hour, Next drain and glaze them, and serve up either * wi ha velouté, or rank We ch or a of sorrel, endive, or Maceédoine. - afd tn a a No. 21.—Blanquetie of Veal with Curctiinbere of Roast a neck, or a loin of veal. The leg part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold, cut it into scollops and put it into the sauce blanquette. (See Sauces). Take six fine cucumbers, cut them into quarters, pare them about the size of the scollops: then take the’ parings and some other pieces, which mince with alittle onion. Fry the whole together in a little butter; when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten with a sauce tournée, and stew them on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the, . grease, and rub the sauce through a tammy. Put the other whole cucumbers into some sauce tournée, and let them boil till done. Then lay them in a hair sieve to drain. Put together the purée of cucumbers and the sauce tournée in which you shave boiled the cucumbers; being sufficiently reduced, thicken it with yolks of eggs well beaten, and sea- soned with salt and a very little sugar. When the sauce is well thickened with the aforesaid articles and a little thick cream, put in the meat and cucumbers, and keep the sauce hat, that the meat may have a better savour. This entrée must be sweet, not too much so, but the sugar must predo~ minate. + No, 22.— Blanquette of Veal a la Paysanne. Roast the veal as above ; ‘cutit in the same way; reduce the sauce tournée, season well, put the veal into the sauce before the thickening ; chop some parsley very fine, and put it in with the juice of half a lemon before you mix it with the thickening ; stir the stew-pan round without using a spoon, and send up to table quite hot. N. B.—This is a very good method, but if you can cut x. = -.. * ee ee ee tee ee 487 cone _ your veal whilst quite hot, it will be a great improvement, _ as the sauce then will be better imbibed by the meat. No. 23.—Scollops of Sweetbreads with Green Pease. ‘Take four fine sweetbreads, let them disgorge, and blanch . them thoroughly. Next cut them into scollops, as large as" possible. Mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter and a little salt. A quarter of an hour before you send up, ‘Sautez them over a stove, with a clear fire, turn them round, and when done, drain the butter, and put a little glaze into the sauié pan. Keep stirring the sweetbreads in the glaze 3 dish them- en miroton, and send up the pease in the middle, si wa When you have sweetbreads of desserte*, cut them into scollops, make them hot in a little light glaze, and after having dished them en miroton, mask them with the pease. Scollops of sweetbreads are easier to dress, when you put between them a slice of fried bread cut round, and the green pease in the middle; without the fried bread they do not keep the shape in which you dish them, No. 24.—The Attelets of Sweetbreads & I’ Italienne. . ‘TaKE some fine sweetbreads, as white as can be procured. Blanch them, and stew them in a well seasoned liquor of braize. When done, drain them; and when cold cut them ~ _ into squares of about an inch. Put those squares into a sauce d’attelets, and let them cool. When the sauce is cold, skewer the squares, alternately with a bit of calf’s udder ‘ready done, using silver skewers, and give them as nearly as possible a square shape, all of a size. Then, moistened with the sauce, dip them into crumbs of bread ‘only. Now give them a complete square shape, and dip them into an * Desserte, is when left from the table. 138 omelette of four eggs, whites ‘and yolks beaten together with | a little salt, cover them over again with crumbs of bread, which level with a knife. Next powder some crumbs of © bread on the cover of a stew-pan, and lay the attelets over them. The moment you are going to send up to table, fry them of a fine brown, and sauce them with a brown or white Italienne, according to your fancy. | No. 25:—Small Cases of Scollops of Sweetbreads. Let the sweetbreads disgorge and be blanched as above. When they have been laying for a time in cold water, make small scollops of them, and mix them with a dusselle, which is to be made in the following way. Take half a pint of mushrooms, four or five shalots, a little parsley, and chop the whole very fine separately. Next. rasp a little fat bacon, put a small lump of fresh butter. Stew the fine herbs over a slow fire, and put the scollops with them, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little pounded spice. When done, drain all the fat; then put the scollops into small paper cases fried in olive oil, and put to them a deal of seasoning, I mean plenty of fine herbs. ‘Then strew over a few crumbs of bread fried in butter. Lay the paper cases for a moment in the oven, and when - you are going to serve up, pour into each of them a little thin Espagnole, and squeeze the juice of a lemon; but contrive to drain all the fat. | No. 26.—Croquets af Sweetbread. Take such sweetbreads as have already been served, eut them into as small dice as possible. Have a good velouté reduced ready. Throw the dice of sweetbreads into the velouté, and give them a boil, that they may taste of the sauce. Then lay them on a plate to cool. When cold, © roll them into any shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of 139 all things avoid giving them the shape of pears, as some persons do, for in that case they must be more handled, without at all improving the quality. Serve up with parsley, fried green, in the middle. Some times you may spread a very thin puff paste, and wrap some of the meat of croquette in it; put some crumbs of bread over it, and fry it of avery good colour... This is what is called risole. The risole differs in this particular only, that one is wrapped up in crumbs of bread, and the other in paste. No. 27.—Calf’s Brain en Matelotte. > axe three brains of an equal size. Strip them of the upper skin, let them disgorge in water; then boil them in | water, salt, a little vinegar and butter. When done, drain -and dish them, serve them up either with la sauce matelotte, or Ja financiére. Cuteach of them in two, and when you > | serve them on the dish, put between each a bit of bread, of the shape of a cocks’-comb, that has been fried of a nice ) colour. No. 28.—Calf’s Brain a la Mattre d’ Hotel. Let them be prepared as above. Cat some bread into the shape of cocks’-combs, which fry in butter till of a fine — colour. Dish them between each half of the brains, which _ you have divided, and mask* the brains with a maitre d’hdtel. No. 29.—Calf’s Brain with fried Parsley. Tue same as above with regard to the stewing. Fry } separately some parsley very green, and likewise some butter | in a frying-pan, till such time as it ceases sparkling. Then _ put the brains into a dish, with the parsley in the middle, and | for the sauce, put with the brown butter a spoonful of vine- _ gar, some salt and pepper, and pour it under the brains. * Mask, means, to cover with the sauce. P * 140 No. 30.—Marinade of Calf?s Brain. — In case you should have any brains of desserte, make a marinade cuite, and give a boil to the brains in it, Then drain them and wrap them up in paste. (See Paste for 3 Srying, page 123) : No. 31.—Calf ’s Brain, Love-Apple Sauce. THESE are to be prepared and done as those above. Cut slices of bread in the shape of cocks’-combs, fry and glaze them, and dish them between the brains, with the love- apple sauce under them, : No. 32.—Tendrons of’ Veal a la Jardiniere. TENDRoNs are found at the extremity of the ribs. Pre- viously to your detaching them, pare them from the dry bone which is next to them, then part them from the bone and scollop them in the shape of oysters. Set them to dis- gorge, that they may be made very white. Next blanch them through. Let them cool. When cold pare them of a good form, and mark themin a stew-pan wrapt up in layers of bacon. Put ina carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a few branches of thyme, and salt and pepper; moisten them with good broth, or with a poéle if you have any, and let them stew for four hours as gently as you can, When they are done, drain them, and put them. into a saute pan with a little glaze. Keep stirring them over the fire, that they may get the taste of the glaze. Dish them enmiroton, and serve la jardiniére in the middle*, , | * La jardiniére means the gardener’s wife: by this is understood, that any vegetable of a good appearance may be used for that dish; those most partie cularly used are carrots, turnips, asparagus, green pease, heads of cauliflower, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, French beans, Windsor beans, &c. they are however to be used only in the spring, ‘ ee ee 141 No. 83.—Tendrons of Veal with Green Pease, brown. ~ Wuarevenr sauce you may wish to serve the tendrons of veal with, they must always be done as directed above. They may be served in different ways, that is, either-white _or brown, which is explained in the article of Sauces. The tendrons &@V’ Espagnole are to be drained an hour before you send them up. When you are sure there is no more fat left, put them with the pease, that they may get the taste of them; give them one or two boils, then dish them en miroton, and mask them with the pease @ l’ Espagnole. ° No, 34.—Tendrons of Veul with Green Pease, white. Braize the tendrons as above. When they are done, drain them, and glaze them ina sauté pan. Dish them en miroton, and put the pease in the middle. (See the articles green pease, white, or brown). 7 No. 35.—Tendrons of Veal with Cabbage Létiuce, a ? Espag- nole. ; Braize and glaze the tendrons as above. Then take some braized lettuce. (See Enirées of Mutton, No. 18, page 118). Dish the tendrons en miroton, that is, a tendron and a lettuce alternately, and mask* with an Espagnole. No. 36.—Tendrons of Veal en Marinade, dites au Soleil. Ie you have any tendrons that have been sent to table, and are returned untouched, you cannot send them up a se- cond time dressed in the same manner, as they no longer retain their fine colour. Put them into a marinade cutte, and then in paste. (See Paste for frying, page 123), Fry them of a nice colour, and serve them up with a powwrade., * Mask, means, to cover with the sauce, a 142 No. 37.— Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata, white. (Sze deep Dishes, No. 8, _page 62). They may alsé' be served ds entrées. Glaze them, and put the chtpolata in the middle. | No, 38.— Tendrons of Veal en.Chipolata, brown. (SEE deep Dishes, No. 9, page 62). They are also served - as entrées, provided you have some deep dishes to contain all the ingredients and the sauce; for otherwise re had better not send them up. No. 39.—Tendrons of Veal with the purée of Chesnuts. THE tendrons are served with all sorts of purées, either of pease, celery, sorrel, onions, mushrooms, &c.; but it is use- less to repeat similar observations. Tendrons with a purée must always be glazed, and dished en miroton when served as enirées, with any sort of purée in the middle. No. 40.—Calves’ Ears farcies and fried. TAKE six or eight calves’ ears, and let them disgorge. Blanch them, and be particular to clean away all the hair they have inside; then stew themina blanc. (See Calf’s Head, No. 10, Removes). When the ears are done enough, that is, when they can stand upright, drain them; let them cool; then introduce a farce fine (See Farces Fines, Entrées of Fow!] 2 la créme) into the hollow part. Give the ear the shape of ahorn. Dip it into an omelette and crumbs of bread twice successively, and then’ fry them till they are of a fine brown. Serve under them a mattre d’hdtel grasse, or love-apple sauce, No, 41.—Calves’ Ears, Love-Apple Sauce. THESE are to be done the same.as above, and particu- larly when they are very white, otherwise serve them fried. 143 ' Slit with your knife the part of the horn all round. Cut the thickest side very flat that they may stand upright. Dish them en fleurons 2 blanc, over the love-apple sauce. No. 42.—Calves’ Ears with green Dutch Sauce. As above, very white, and the Dutch green sauce: under it. The green Dutch sauce is a sauce tournée reduced, and a verd de persilin it, with the juice of alemon and a little Cayenne. | | | No. 43.—Calves’ Ears with the Ravigotte Sauce, Are to be done as those above, and slit in the same manner, and served up with a ravigotte, No. 44.—Calf’s Liver larded and roasted. Take a fine calf’s liver of a light colour. Lard it asa Jricandeau, and pickle it in vinegar with an onion cut into slices, some stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, thyme, anda bay-leaf. When it has been marinaded for four and twenty hours in the pickle, fasten it on a spit, roast it, and baste it frequently. Then glaze it with a light glaze, as it is naturally of a black colour. Serve under it a brown pot- vrade. No. 45.—Scollops of Calf’s Liver aux fines Herbes, Take a nice calf’s liver, very white, and cut it into slices, which pare in the shape of hearts. Then take some fine herbs, parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, and stew them a little on the fire. Then sautez the calf’s liver with the herbs over a gentle fire. When it is done on one side, turn it round and season it with pepper and salt. Dish the liver. Put a little four with the herbs, moisten them with a little 144 gravy and broth, and let them stew for ten minutes: Next squeeze the Juice of a lemon; and with this sauce mask the liver that you have dished en miroton. This to be sure isa common entrée, yet it is very palat- able; you may put the liverin the sauce. But mind that it does not boil. It is a dish for a breakfast & la fourchette. — No. 46.— Les petites Noix d’Epauiles de Veatt with Sorrel*, THE petites noix in Paris are generally sold at the rate of half.a pound of meat. ‘Ten or even twelve are required for an entrée, which is a very dainty dish for those people who know how to eat it. In general they are very fat, for which reason you are forced to send them up to table with the fat, as it keeps the noix mellow. Set them to disgorge as you did the tendrons. Trim a stew-pan with layers of bacon, put in the noix after having blanched them, and give them a pleasing shape. Then moisten with a poéle, and stew them for an hour on a very slow fire. Next drain them, and glaze them at two different times. Dish them en cordon, and put the sorrel in the middle. No. 47.— The Noix of Shoulder of Ve vi with Endive. TuHEsE are dressed exactly in the same manner as those © above; but you put endives, either white or brown, instead of sorrel. No. 48.—Calf’s Feet plain. TAKE some nice white calf ’s feet, bone them as far as- the joint; set them to disgorge, and stew them in a blanc. . (See Calf’s Head). When they are done, drain them and send them up quite hot, with parsley and butter in a sauce= boat. * These are to be found on the side of a shoulder of veals =. =. 145 No. 49.—Calf’s Feet Marinade. ‘Prepare the feet as above. Make a marinade cuite, and some paste for frying. Serve them up with fried parsley 0 or a poivrade in the middle, (See Sauces). a _ No. 50.—Calves’ Feet, farcis en Soleil. Srew a few calves’ feet as above. When they are done drain them. Then take a little farce fine, that is to say, a farce made of all sorts of dressed meat, &c. eggs excepted, which serve to make the whole stick together. (in order ‘to prevent too frequent repetitions in a work of this kind, I have shewn the manner of making the different farces in a separate chapter). When you have stuffed the middle of the calf’s feet with the farce, give them around shape, then dip them into an omeletie seasoned with pepper and. salt, and into crumbs of bread twice over, and fry them till they are of a fine brown. Serve them up with fried parsley haga very green, and send up the brown sharp saucein a boat. Beet Rete bey No. 51.—Calf’s Feet, 2 la Poulette. Gp Hea _ ~. Stew them in a blanc, like those above. Dish them, and pour the sauce over them. (See No. 27, Entrées of Mutton, for the sauce). If you were to put them in the sauce, they would not look so well. Mind, drain them well before you put them into the dish, : 146 CHAP. VIII. ENTREES OF FOWL. os Observation.—When you have an opportunity of buying the fowls yourself, chuse always white legged ones; their flesh is finer, and the skin tender; they also look better at table. The manner of fattening fowls is, to separate them’ from the other chickens; mix together some oatmeal, milk, boiled potatoes, and bread, if you have any left from the table; add to the whole of it a little dripping; mind not ‘to give them too much at a time, and not more than twice a day; above all, keep them very clean. When they are sufhi- ciently fattened kill them, or they will fall ill and die. - No. 1.—Fowl au Consommé, generally termed au gros Sel. Take a fine fat fowl, the flesh and skin of which are perfectly white; empty the fowl without making too great an aperture, singe it gently and scald the legs, which are to be turned inside of the body; then lay on it a pretty thick layer of fat bacon; fasten it tight, and let it be boiled in broth, which must boil before you put it in, otherwise the fowl would lose its white colour. If the fowl is of a larger size, it will require an hour and a quarter before it is done enough: if it is of a common size, one hour only will do. Next drain it in a dish, wipe off all the fat, and send it up with a little of the liquor in which it was boiled, with the addition of a little salt and glaze. 147 No, 2.—Fowl, or gros Sel. ‘Tue same as above, with the only. difference, that you lay both over and under the fowl some crystallized salt, that has not been pounded. | | No. 3.—Fowl ¢ la Villeroi. ‘Taxe a fine fowl, which may be known by the connois- seurs by a skin of a bluish hue marbled with grey: it is to — be emptied and singed in the same manner as directed No.1. Let it be trussed, the legs turned down outwards: inside of the body introduce a small quantity of butter kneaded with salt and lemon juice. The fowl to be put into an oval stew-pan, with a layer of fat bacon: next pour some poéle over it, (See Sauces, poéle). Those articles which are poélez,* requiring to preserve their whiteness, are not to be kept on the fire so long as others. It requires only three-quarters of an hour for a fowl to be done in this style. A capon would require full an hour. To be served with ‘sauce ad la financiere. é Observation to be particularly attended to by the Cook.—As the poéle has no translation, it retainsits name, it is indispen- sable in fine,cookery,andis made as follows: —Take one pound of beef suet, one pound of very fresh butter, and one pound of very fat bacon, cut the suet and the bacon into very large dice, put them into a stew-pan with two pounds of veal cut in the same manner, fried till the veal becomes very white, and then moisten with about three pints of boiling clear water, a handful of salt, one bay-leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, one onion stuck with three cloves, and a great bundle of ‘parsley and green onions; let the whole boil gently till the * Poélez is almost the same operation as braizing ; the only difference is, that what is poé/é must be underdone, and a braize must be done through. L2 148 onion is done, then drain it through a hair sieve, and use it for any thing that may want poéle. The use of poéle is ~ to make every thing boiled in it very white and tasty: in the wiriter it keeps for a week, and is very useful in the larder. No. 4.—Fowl & la Monimorenci: THE same Gare and attention are requisite in this case as in the former.. The fowl being trussed up, you have some boiling water ready, then laying hold of the fowl by the saddle, dip the breast only into the water in order to give additional firmness to the skin and flesh: next dip it into cold water. When the fowl is quite cold, lard the whole breast in the same manner as a fricandeau of veal, and put it into an oval stew-pan, trimmed all round with fat bacon, and moisten with the poéle, but none at the top. There must be a brisk fire over it, and a slow one under it, the same as for a fricandeau, and it will be done within three- quarters of an hour at most. Dry the bacon with a sala- mander, glaze of a good colour, and send up with sauce @ Allemande. No. 5.— Fowl a la Condé. Procure a nice fowl, singe and truss it up as above; slit the breast, and introduce small slices of truffles cut into the following shape §% into the slits that you have made: cover the whole with slices of bacon, and let it be stewed as above; care must be taken, however, when you pour out the bacon, not to derange the symmetry. This dish re- quires to be garnished in imitation of a chambord with larded sweetbread, cocks’-combs, pigeons a la gautier, large que- nelles 2 la cuilliére, and sauce 2 la financiére. 149 No. 6.—Fowl ala si tion - Emery a fine fowl, ahd he particular in washing fhe inside of it with very. hot water; if you leave any blood in it, the rice would be full of scum. Your rice having boiled a sufficient time in rich consommé, season it with salt, and introduce some into the body of the fowl, which you next roast, well wrapped up in layers of bacon, and } in paper ; it requires. an hour. to have it sufficiently done. Send it up with rice round the fowl, the same as you have used to put inside, only add to it too spoonfuls of very good béchamelle, well seasoned; do not let it be too thin, and pour a little velouté over the fowl, ‘Take ie eare to keep the fowl white. No. 7.—Fow!l ¢ la Dreuz, THE fowl to be singed and trussed up as above. In order to give it additional firmness use boiling water, as in No. 4. Cut some ham into long squares; lard the breast of the fowl in imitation of asmall draft-board, put it into the stew- pan as‘ above, and moisten with poéle. The same time, and no longer, is requisite for the fowl to be completely done. To this must be added the sauce @ l’ Allemande. No. 8.—Fowl, with green Oysters. Since and truss a nice fowl, and put it into a stew-pan, the same as in No. 3. When done enough, drain it, and send it up with oyster sauce as follows. > ) Oyster Sauce for Fowl or Turkey.—Take two dozen of oysters; and take care to preserve all the liquor when you open them. Put the oysters into a small stew-pan with the liquor, and add to it a spoonful of water, When the liquor 150 boils, the oysters are done; stir them with a spoon, and put them to drain in a hair-sieve as you take them from the stew-pan with a spoon; let the liquor settle, and pour it off clear into another vessel; beard the oysters, and wash them again in the liquor, in order to remove all grit and sand; then put a half quartern of fresh butter into a stew-pah, with a spoonful or two of very fine four; when the flour is fried a little, moisten with the oyster liquor, and a pint of cream, let. this boil fifteen minutes; and add to it two spoonfuls of béchamelle: if you have no béchamelle, put a small bit of glaze, or portuble soup, well seasoned. Mind, this has no essence of anchovies, as for fish: it is the only difference. No. 9.—Fowl aux Oling:. Since, &c. &c. a fine fowl as above: then take some olives, which are to be blanched till they are no longer briny. Next boil them in a thin Espagnole. Skim the sauce and add a little lemon-juice, and pour it under the fowl. Serve up with some stuffed olives, without stones. Turn the olives with your knife, so as to take out the stone, and leave the olive whole. “No. 10.—Fow!l & la Créme. Tus dish is made out of a cold fowl, either roasted or stewed: you take off the breast and fleshy part of the fowl, by cutting it square all through; with a little bread toasted and dipped in butter stop the aperture; then have the farce a la créme, as directed in No. 5, with which fill the fowl; then make a kind of wall round the fowl with buttered paper, cover the same with bacon, in order that the fowl may not get too much colour. If this dish be placed on the flanks, some of the same farce may be served on toasts cut in the shape of hearts or lozenges, which are called témoins. 151 ; These are to be baked in the oven, the same as the fowls, and the fat to be well drained. Send up with a thin Espag~ nole sauce, or velouté, The toast must be fried before you put the farce over it. ie No. 11.—F! a la ‘Moni. “ace ber ». Fats is likewise a cold fowl of desserte; take off the breast as above. You must have ready either an émincé, or a salpicon pretty thick, which is to be introduced cold, into the body of the fowl. Beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little fresh melted butter; then cover the breast of the fowl only with crumbs of bread, basted with clarified butter; next give it a colour with the salamander, but you must be care- ful that it does not get a brown colour too soon: now baste it with a little butter again; take the red hot shovel to give the fowl a good brown colour on all sides; serve a brown sauce under it, if you have applied a salpicon; and avelouté if you have used an émincé ; it may also be called a poularde en surprise. | : Emincé or salpicon may be made with the same sauce; salpicon is a composition of different ingredients, and émincé is all of one sort. wena Salpicon.—Cut into small dices, some mushrooms, tongue, truffles, and filets of fowls; the truffles and mush- rooms must be ready done, as well as the tongue and fowl; put all this into a very reduced béchamelle, and when cold, use as directed. Emincé—is only the fleshy part of either fowl or game, minced and put into some béchamelle well seasoned; the dif- : ference between mince and dice is, that when you have a short allowance of meat, you are obliged to mince, as it requires no shape. Salpiconis in general brown; minced fowl always white. 152 No. 12.—Fowl &@ la Dubaril. ‘Tats must likewise be a fowl of desserte*, but yet very white. ‘Take off the ‘‘reast, as in No. 11. «Then take the fleshy part of a nice te roast,.fowl, which you cut into small square pieces oi ri! fres} size; you also cut some tongue the same: put these slices of fowl and tongue into a béchamelle pretty thick. Keep your fowl very hot. The moment you are going: to serve it, pour the émincé inside the body of the fowl; thin slices of tongue, cut of the shape of cocks’ combs, should be put round the mince on the top of ‘the fowl; serve under it a ragott 2 l’ Allemande and poached eggs on the top of the mince. No. 13.—Fowl & la Mirepoix, otherwise a la Cendre. Truss the fowl as in No.1. Next mark a mirepoin without its being melted, that is to say, scrapé some bacon, a little butter, a few slices of ham, with a little thyme, bay- leaves, salt, and pepper. Then spread the whole on a sheet of white paper: wrap the fowl up in this sheet of paper, and cover it with several other sheets: let the whole be closed ' hermetically, lest the grease should be lost; then put it into the oven if not too hot; if it should happen to be so, let the fowl be then covered with hot ashes, and over these have some live burning coals, but not too vivid, for fear of the paper catching fire, which would spoil the fowl. It requires two hours for the fowl to be sufficiently done; when so, drain it well, and send it up with an Espagnole under it, or a poivrade, or a sauce hachée. This dish is seldom served, as it gives great trouble in the making. | * Desserte, means what comes from the table. 153 Niowbdchdaeal. dude Gaittincles _ Take 2 nice white fowl, singe it, and take out the bones. without destroying the skin. Next have a-farce @ quenelles*, wherein you introduce a little lobster spawn well pounded, to make it very red. This farce being made rather liquid, is to be injected, first between the skin and the flesh of the fowl, and then inside of the body. You then mould the fowl into an agreeable shape: next put it into an oval stew- pan well trimmed with slices of bacon, and pour some poéle over it; leave it on the fire for an hour and ahalf. As it has no bones left, it requires more time before it is done. Serve it up with a sauce & [ Allemande, to which you add some of the red to dye the sauce, or some love-apple sauce. No. 15.—Fowl & Campine, with raw Onions. Truss the fowl with the legs outwards, and roast it. It _ must be of a good colour. When done, slit the breast, cut raw onions in slices, which you introduce into the slits you have made, and send it up with a brown powrade highly seasoned, and very hot. No. 16.—Fow! a la Tariare. Take a fine fowl, turn in the legs as usual, then cut it in two, take the bones off from the back, cut the breast bones, off, break those of the legs, flatten the fowl with the back of your knife, and season it with salt and pepper: then dip it into clarified butter, and next into crumbs of bread, equally onallsides. Next broil it up to a fine colour, on a slow * Farce a quenelles; the necessity of preserving this appellation, arises - out of the multiplicity of different farces which are made, and are called in England, forced-meats. As this is a particular one, the professor must retain the proper name. 154 fire, that it may be done thoroughly. Send it ap with the brown Italienne. Thrust your knife. into it, to ascertain if . itis well done; it requires an hour, or at least three-quarters, 4to be done properly. No. 17.—Fowl a la Chingara. TAKE a nice fowl of a fine white colour, singe and pick it well; then cut it into four equal parts well trimmed. Next cut some thin slices of ham, of a very good shape, put them into a buttered stew-pan, and put the four quarters of the fowl over them; let the whole simmer for a while on red hot ashes: when the fowl is done, drain off the fat, and powder a little salt and pepper over it; you ' then detach the glaze made out of the gravy of the fowl and slices of ham; pour a little Espagnole, with the juice of a lemon, and send it up with the slices of ham over the four quarters, and four large fried pieces of bread between, of the same dimension as the slices of ham, Mind, this is to be highly seasoned. No. 18.—Fow! with Tarragon Sauce. Take a fine fowl, truss it and poéle it as in No.3. When you are going to send it up to table, mask it with tarragon sauce, made as follows: put into a small stew-pan, a few branches of green tarragon, and a wine-glass of white vinegar ; let it boil for ten minutes, then add four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and thicken with two yolks of eggs. Strain the whole through a tammy, and put to it a small pat of fresh butter, a little lemon juice, some salt and pepper, and some leaves of tarragon blanched very green; cover the fowl with this sauce. All other pluches, such as leaves of parsley, chervil, &c, &c, are served up with whole entrées, by which is meant, 155 that the fowl has not been cut in pieces. i: sien use any sauce you may fancy. he No. 19.—Fow] with Caulifiowers. _ Tae same as in No. 18; the only difference is, that you boil some cauliflowers in water with a little butter and salt. - This you put round the fowl, and then mask both the fowl and cauliflower with a velouté, | No. 20.— Cutlets of Fillets of Fowl, with Crumbs ee Bieud a la Maréchale. Fax four small fowls ; cut off the fillets, without injur- - ing the filets mignons; cut the merry-thoughts in two. Take off the filets mignons; pare them in the shape of hearts ; and stick the merry-thought bones into the point of the hearts, to give them the appearance of chops: and do the same for all the rest. Season them with pepper and salt; then brush the fillets over with yolks of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread; next dip them into clarified butter, and then into crumbs again. Use your knife to level the bread, and broil those fillets over a brisk fire. The fillets being very thin, require only to be lightly browned. Serve under them some thin Espagnole sauce well seasoned. I must here observe to young or inexperienced cooks, that when they have something thin to broil, the fire must be very sharp; and when something thick, the fire must be moderate, as it takes more time to be done through. No. 2).—The Wings of Fowls a la St. Laurent. Take three fowls, divide the breasts into two parts, take off the sinews and small bones, season with salt and pepper, &e. brush them as above with yolks of eggs, then dip them 156. into bread, then in clarified butter, and bread again; next broil them in the same manner.as above, well seasoned, and send them up with a thin Espagnole. Ne. 22.—Filets of Fowls sautés au supréme. Take off the fillets of three fowls, which will produce nine fillets, as two of the filets mignons are used to make a large fillet. You then prepare them all alike, ana put them into a sauté pan with some clarified butter and salt, covered with a round of paper buttered, to prevent the fillets from drying, and getting dusty. When you have sawtéz the fillets on a sharp fire, drain the butter, but be careful to preserve the gravy of the fowls with a small quantity of the butter: put four spoonfuls of béchamelle and two spoon- fuls of double cream. Let them warm gently without boil- — ing, or the fillets would get tough: put likewise a spoonful of consommé, and taste if the seasoning is palatable. You must mind that this dish is a fine entrée, and must not be too highly seasoned. Send up with sliced bits. of bread, fried in butter, and glazed over, which are to be placed between the fillets. ‘The sauce to be poured over the fillets only. , No. 23.—Scollops of Fowls with Cucumbers. Take off the fillets of three fowls, cut your scollops of the size of an half crown piece, dip them into some clarified butter, in a sauté pan, sautez them over a brisk fire on both sides, and throw them into sauce of cucumbers. No, 24.——Scollops of Fowls with Essence of Cucumbers. THEsE scollops are prepared in the same manner as those above, but the sauce is not the same ; cut the cucumbers of the same shape and size as the scollops; keep the parings 157 or trimmings of the cucumbers, to make a purée. As this sauce must have a positive taste of cucumbers, put the cucumbers into a basin with a little salt, and a-glass of vinegar, let them marinade for one hour, then drain them upon a clean cloth, put them into a stew-pan with a small bit of butter, let them fry a little without colour, sprinkle a spoonful of flour over them, then moisten with consommé enough to let the fat rise on the top. Put a small bit of sugar. When the cucumbers are sufficiently done, drain them in a stew-pan, and put them by covered. ‘Now take - the parings, fry them in a stew-pan with a little butter, moisten with the sauce in which you have boiled the cucumbers, skim off all the butter, reduce the sauce quite thick, and then put three spoonfuls of good béchamelle with it; rub this through a tammy; keep this sauce very thicks Next sawtez the scollops on both sides, but mind, as soon as they appear white they are done; lay the dish on its side in order to drain off all the butter; put the fillets into the sauce, drain the cucumbers again, and put them to the fillets. If your sauce is quite thick, put to it a spoonful of double cream, a little salt, and serve in a deep dish with some fleurons of pastry round the dish; observe that this dish must be rather sweet. You must put asmall bit of sugar into it. No. 25.—Scollops of Fowls with Truffles. -THEsE are prepared as above, but at the moment when you throw the scollops into the butter, the truffles must be ready peeled, and cut of the same round form and dimen- sion as the scollops. Season with a little salt; sautez the truffles and scollops a few moments before dinner time; and put them into a velouté, to which you have added a little reduction of truffles. This reduction is made as follows: the trimmings of truffles are to be reduced in a 158 little consomme, introduce some of this glaze into. the scoilops, and as it is always brown, add three or four spoonfuls of thick cream to the sauté, to make the sauce whites season it according to your palate. Do not forget to put the sauce through a tammy to have it very bright. | Observation relative to Sauiez in general.—Mind, you must never let the sauté be too much done; these entrées are very difficult to make in perfection. When they are too much done, they are not eatable. It is this point of per- fection in the management of cookery, whic distinguishes. the pee from the bad cook. No. 26.—Scollops of Fowl a la Conti, with Truffles. THE same quantity of fowls as No. 25, the only difference is, that you keep the filets mignons which you lard, one half with bacon and the other with truffles, You must ‘take care that the Conties ave not over-done. Those that are larded with bacon, must be well covered with fire, and those that. are decorated with truffles must be wrapped up in bacon, and afterwards glazed. Give them the shape you please when you put them into the sauté Phi aisher of garlands, rosasses, &c. | No. 27.—Scollops of Fowls with green Pease. - THESE scollops are prepared, and done in the same man-~ ner as those above. When they have been sautéz, put them into sauce @ blanquette with green pease. No. 28.—Fillets of Fowls @ la Chingara. Take the fillets of three fowls, which you divest of the skin and sinews. Mark them as the above, with clarified butter in a sauté pan, together with some slices of boiled ham of 159 the same size. Sautez them over a slow fire; but do not let the fillets be too long on the fire. Let the ham be of a fine colour ; glaze it well, and dish it en miroton. | Put three spoonfuls of Espaginole into the sauté pan, after having drained the butter, one spoonful. of consommé, two pats of fresh butter, the juice of one lemon, some salt, and a little Cayenne; glaze the bits of ham, and cover the fillets only with this sauce. : ae No. 29.—Blanquette of Fowl marbrée. Tuts dish is one of those that I do not approve of, but.it — is served at grand dinners, Take off the breasts of three fleshy fowls, wrap them well up in bacon and paper, then - roast them ; do not let them be too much done. Next lay | them aside to cool. Take off the flesh, first from one side, then from the other, which you cut to the size of an half-a- crown piece, as also some slices of a red tongue ; then put into the dish that is to be sent up a miroton of tongue and of fowl; that is, a slice of each alternately, and so on in a spiral line. Take care to keep the dish quite hot. The moment you are going to send up, cover it with a sauce a blanquette, or dl’ Allemande: (See Sauces). No. 30.—Wings of Fowl @ la Dauphin. [r you have a very large dinner to send up, and use a great number of fowls, take six fillets off from the same side, which makes no difference with regard to the expence ; this dish looks better when the wings are all from the same side; prepare your fillets well, lard them with fine bacon, and then put them into the oven in a well-buttered stew- pan, in order to give them a good shape; when they have got a certain degree of firmness, lay them over slices of bacon, and put under the bacon a bed of vegetables, the same as for a fricandeau, with-a little salt, and a good fite “ Ca eee om ee Re ae PR ey , ig & however preferable to all others. 160 ‘ over them, in order that the larded part may be seized: the wings will be done in ten minutes; glaze them, and send up with whatever sauce you think proper. Endives with béchamelle, the soubise, and’the purée of pete” are + P No. 31.—Pudding, or Boudin a la Reine. Tas dish is made out of cold fowls, Take the breast and fleshy parts of several fowls, which you cut into small dice, all of an equal size. ‘Throw those dice into a reduc- tion of velouté, and season them well; next put them into a dish that they may cool. When this preparation is quite cold, cut them into two equal parts, which you make into boudins*, of the size of the dish : roll them into crumbs of bread ; then dip them into an omelette+, and roll them again in bread. You must take care that the extremities are well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in the frying-pan. When they are fried to a good colour, drain them, wipe off the grease with a clean towel, and serve with a thin vevouté, or green parsley fried be- tween. No, 32,—Croqueties of Fowl au Velouté. . THESE are prepared in the same manner as the Boudins 2 la Reine, but you must keep them rather thick, to prevent their shrinking while frying. A little fried parsley is to be put into the middle of the dish, and you erect the croguettes round it. There are several manners of rolling them, as in the shape of a cork, of a ball, of a pear; the tail of which is ade out of a carrot, or some other substance, which I do not approve of ; those which look the best, are in the shape * A long shape. + Omelette, consists of eggs beat together with a Kette salt. « 161 of acork. You must press pretty hard on the. extremities; that they may stand erect on the dish. To place them in a circular form, with fried parsley in the centre, has a pretty effect, though it is very plain. Those that are in the shape of a pear are éalled ala Dubaril. There are also croquettes of sweetbreads, of . palates of beef, of cocks’-combs: but they are all much | rs as will be shewn hereafter. | Croquettes of any. kind, ought to be made only with tem- nants of fowl or game, as they require a great quantity of flesh, but they may be made with what is left from the preceding day. No. 33.—Hachi, or minced Fowl & la Polonoise. Ir you have any remnants of fowl, mince them, and put the minced meat into a good béchamelle, without suffering it to boil. Sometimes you may put the whole into a vol au vent, at another time into patties en timballe; another time you may put it in a bordure with poached eggs over the Ininced meat. By this means you obtain a variety of dishes: you may likewise send it up in croustades, but these _ croustades beat the appearance of a dish of the second course. No. 34.—Legs of Fowl en Cancton. Duckling-lke. AFTER having prepared the fillets of several fowls, you must contrive to turn the legs to advantage: pull the bones entirely away from the white flesh ; but take-care not to destroy. the knee, which must serve to make the beak of the duck. Cut the bone on both sides the joint, and keep the knuckle. When you have boned the thighs, stuff them moderately with a farce d quenelles ; next sew them up with a little thread, and put them into the oven on a flat dish; -put over these another flat dish with a weight on it, to give M 9 162 | them a good shape; leave them in the oven till they are quite firm, that they may retain their shape; next put them into a stew-pan, wrapped up with some bacon; add a few bits of carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a little bay-leaf, thyme, salt and pepper; put the knuckles to braize with this, when the whole has simmered gently on the fire for an hour, drain the legs and the knuckles; take off the thread, and stick the knuckle into the large part of the leg, and it will represent exactly the form of a duckling. Put under it _apurée of green pease in summer; and at other times, any kind of sauce, sharp or not. ; No. 35.—Legs of Fowl en Balotine: Bone the legs of the fowl ; cut the knee entirely off, and — the leg just above the joint; then roll the legs, and thrust the claws into the hole of the leg bone: tie them up quite round, and put them between two plafonds with a pretty heavy weight over them, to give them a nice shape. When they are become firm, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them in the common way: when they are done, drain and glaze them; send up with any sauce you may : fancy. The love-apple, or sharp sauce, will answer the purpose very well. | No. 36.—Legs of Fowl @ la Orlie. Bonet the legs of several fowls, and set them to be marinaded raw in an earthen pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, salt and pepper, &c. &c. When marinaded for three hours, drain them: then beat the white of an egg, mix a little flour with crumbs of bread, and dip the legs first into the white ef the egg, and then into the flour and crumbs; next fry them, but mind your dripping must-not be too hot, for if it were so, the legs would get a colouring before they were done enough ee ee = ee 163 through. Serve up with the brown sharp sauce, or loves apple sauce. No. 37.—Legs of Fowl é la Dreus, ‘Bone the legs, fill up the vacuity with a force-meat or quenelle; give the legs a round shape, then lard the upper part with small slips of ham, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them as above. When they are done, ‘glaze and send them up with whatever sauce you think | ‘proper. It is to be observed, however, that a glazed dish requires a white sauce, that the glazing may appear to greater advantage. ‘These legs are to be put into a sauté pan on which you have spread layers of bacon. You also put the same over the legs, and cover the whole with the lid of a stew-pan, and over this puta heavy weight, to give the legs a good shape. When they are become sufficiently firm over a slow fire, or in the oven, take them out and mark them the same as any other draize*. ® The entrées of legs of fowl are not in very great repute, but they are a very great saving of expence, and nothing but prejudice can object to them, for when they are well made, they are excellent food, and make a very good appearance on table, as they can be served in so many different forms, and with such various flavour. M2 me 64 CHAP. IX. ENTREES OF FAT CHICKENS. a = | ‘Tr is almost useless to describe what can be’ made with fat chickens. Whatever can be made with fowl, can also be made with chicken. ‘The only difference is in the length | of time requisite for dressing them. No. 1.—Chickens a lV’ Ivoire. -'Taxe two chickens of the same size and equally white ; pick them well and singe them; then thrust your fingers inside to pull out the breast bone. Having mixed a little butter with the juice of a lemon, and some salt and pepper, introduce an equal proportion of this mixture into the body of each chicken, and bind them up in a good shape. Then put them into an oval stew-pan, surrounded with layers of bacon: next cut the juicy part of a lemon, and cover the breasts of the chickens with thin slices of it and bacon. Pour some poéle over them. The chickens will be done in half an hour’s time, and retain their white colour. Drain them, take off the packthread, and send them up with the veloute, or béchamelle. No. 2,.—Chickens 2 la Villerot, Ark dressed in the same manner as those above. The sauce however is to be an aspic lid. (See Aspie Sauce). eS Se i at ces _ : pe al ee i Pe , ; } i 7 165 No. 3.—Chickens 2a la Montmorenci, “TAKE two chickens of the same size and equally white; : bind them up as above ; next have some “boiling water, wherein you dip only the breasts of the chickens to make the flesh firm. ‘Then lard them the same as a fricandeau, and put them into an oval stew-pan, surrounded with bacon, though there is not to be any over them. A large fire is required to seize the bacon; which having acquired a good. colour, you remove the fire from over them, and let the chickens boil gently for half an hour: then drain and glaze them nicely, and serve up with a ragodt a la financiére, Mind, they must be well done; if any blood should remain in them, the sauce would be spoiled, No. 4,—Chickens 4 la Condé, « Are to be dressed as above, but it is useless to dip them > into boiling water: slit them equally with a penknife, and introduce between the slits thin slices of truffles and of tongue 2 l’écarlate; then stew the chickens as mentioned above, and serve up with the ragodt 4 l Allemande, No. 5.—Chiekens 2 la Turque. TAKE two white chickens of the same size, empty thous and dress them up as above. Then have some rice well cleansed and blanched, and boil it in some consommé, When sufficiently swelled and very thick, season it well, ~ and take one half of it, which you put inside of the chickens, stuff them as full as you possibly can, with the rump turned inside, to prevent the rice from: bursting out: then spit the chickens, wrap them up in layers of bacon and paper, and they will be done in one hour. When done, lay them on the rice that remains, into which you pour four spoonfuls 166 of béchamelle, and one spoonful of thick cream. Season the whole well. Mind that you have the inside of the chicken well washed with boiling water, otherwise the scum ” of it will spoil the rice. No. 6.—Chickens with Ttahan Paste. Take two fat pullets as above, dress them in the like manner, but your Italian paste must be in a state of readi- ness, and made very thick, as it has less substance than rice: then stuff the chickens with part of the paste, and | mix the remainder with some béchamelle as above. No. 7.—Fat Pulleis aux Nouilles. TakE a couple of fat pullets, which dress and prepare as directed in No. 1, and stew them in the same manner. The nowilles are made as follows: take the yolks of four eggs, five spoonfuls of flour, a lump of butter of the size of two eggs, and a little salt; make a paste which you moisten with a little water, yet let it be kept thick; work it hard - with your hand, and spread it on the pastry-table with the rolling-pin ; mind to powder a large quantity of flour when you cut the paste into dice, to prevent their sticking to the pan: blanch the dice in water with a little salt. Drain them, throw them into cold water, and stew them in con- sommé; when they are done, drain them again, ‘and toss them in a small quantity of Allemande, or of velouté. You may also pour those sauces over the chickens. The paste may be cut into different shapes, as squares, lozenges, &c. &c. Emincés, or blanquettes, agree very well with the novilles. No. $.—Chickens ala Tartare. Take two very young chickens, singe and dress them. en poule, by which is meant, that you make a hole above © an a fe ta ahaa ee ee ee 167 the joint of the leg, and thrust the claws into those holes ; then split them in two, break the bones of the legs, and bone the backs and breasts, leaving as few bones as you pos-— - sibly can; then mould the chickens into a round shape; season them with salt and pepper; take a brush dipt into yolks of eggs, and brush the chickens all over; next dip them, into crumbs of bread, have some clarified butter ready, dip them into it, and then into crumbs of bread again and roll them equally ; ; lay them on something flat, to give them a good shape ; half an hour before you send them up, broil them on a clear fire; serve up with gravy, or an Ita- lienne. Observe, that the legs are a long time boiling; as- certain if they are done before you send them up, No. 9.—Fat Pulleis a la Givry, Dress two young pullets, and stew them as directed at No. 1. The givry is made in the following manner: take some small white onions, which you cut into rings; select them all of the same size, which you stew in a small quantity of consommé; take care your onions are not too much done, for they would break. Then spread these rings at an equal distance over the breasts of the chickens, Have a verdde — persil (See Sauces) ready, and put a little in the centre of each ring; the remainder you mix with some sauce tournée well reduced, and well seasoned ; add a little lemon-juice, and a little Cayenne, and pour this sauce under the chickens, No. 10.—Chickens 2 la Barbarie with Truffles, Dress two young chickens as at No. 1, Cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails, make a few holes in the breasts of the chickens with a pen-knife, and fill them up equally with the prepared truffies. ‘Then cover the chickens with layers of ‘bacon, and stew them with a poéle, as at No. 1, and serve up with an Italienne with trufiles. - 168 No. 1].—Chickens ala Cardinal. Jake a couple of fat chickens, very white, but mind that the skin is not injured, and pick them with the utmost care. Have some of the spawn of lobster ready pounded; introduce the handle of a small knife between the skin and the flesh, _and thus separate the skin without tearing it; next intro- duce the red butter between the skin and the flesh very evenly; then truss your chickens in the common way, and poéle them as usual, but do not do them too much; let them . stew gently, ai and ae under them a love-apple sauce. No. 12.—Fillets of fat Pullets a @ la Royale. Ir you have a large dinner to serve, take the fillets of four chickens, and thus you obtain eight large fillets, and a similar number of Jjileis mignons* ; flatten them with the handle of a knife that has been dipt in cold water, to pre- vent the knife breaking the fillets or sticking to them, Then use the knife to pull off the upper'skin, which is very tough; take out the sinews from the filets mignons, put them into a sauté pan, after having dipt them into butter.; then powder them over with salt only, pepper being intended merely for highly seasoned disheg, but disagreeable to a dainty palate. ~ When you are going to serve them, sauter them hastily, drain the butter, pour over them two or three spoonfuls of béchamelle, and one spoonful of thick cream, which you keep stirring for a short time; then send up, dressed en miroton, with the ragout a la royale in the centre, after having dished the fillets in a circle, The ragodt 4 la royale is white, and must be composed of the following articles : cocks’ combs, kidneys, mushrooms, small que- nelles, and truffles if you have any. Observe, that the sauce must be well seasoned. * Filets mignons, are the inside small fillets. ee pe ey 169 No. 13.—Cutlets of Chicken & ? Epigramme. Take the fillets of five pullets and pare them well. Then take the small bone of the pinion, scrape it well, and. stick _ it dexterously into the point of the fillets; season with salt and pepper. Brush them over with the yolks of two eggs, then dip them into crumbs of bread, next into some melted butter, and crumbs of bread again; let them be covered entirely. Broil them exactly at dinner time. ‘Then put the filets mignons in scollops, in a sauce a blanquette, with mushrooms, and send up. On other occasions you may sautez the filets mignons entire, and dish them between the cutlets, with a thin Allemande, (See Sauces). No. 14.-—Fillets of fut Chicken, au Supréme. TAKE thre¢ small fat fowls, very white; clean and pick them well, scald the legs in boiling water; singe the chickens over the flame of a stove, then cut the fillets from the breast 5 flatten and trim the six large fillets: take the six small ones, and make three of them by sticking two together; lay them in a sauté pan, and cover them with clarified butter, and fine salt. Just at dinner time, put the sauté pan on the stove, and sautez them on both sides; when they are firm they are done; drain the butter, but preserve the gravy at the bottom of the pan; add to it three spoonfuls of bécha- | melle well seasoned, and move the pan over the fire without letting the sauce boil: the fillets will not be good if they have had the least boil. Dress the nine fillets with a bit of bread fried of a nice colour between each fillet; and pour the sauce over them, but not on the fried bread, as that must be crisp. N. B.—Use the backs and legs of the fowls to make the consommé, or soup & la reine, 170 No. 15.—Fillets of fat Pullets sautex & la Laeiillus. Take the fillets of four fat pallets, take off the Jilets mig- nons, and pull the sinews from them: flatten them with the back of a knife, and mark them in clarified butter. The larger fillets are to be garnished with truffles, cut into small round | slices, as in the contis. Next make three round slits in each . fillet, and introduce the sliced truffles within each slif, though not so far as to reach through the fillets, which would break them. When your fillets have been garnished, mark them in clarified butter, and sautez them in the usual way; mind they must be only underdone, by which is meant, that they are to retain somewhat of the reddish hue}; but as they are to be kept hot with the sauce, they will soon be thoroughly done, and are always tender. (See Sauce @ la Lucullus). N, B.—For the sauce: strip the legs and loins of the chickens, wash the inside of the lungs clean, and put them into a small stew-pan with a few bits «ham, half-a shalot, and the parings of the truffles; let the whole sweat, moist- ened with a spoonful or two of consommé. When the meat is done through, pour over it some boiling hot consommé, and let it boil for about an hour, then drain the whole on a cloth, or in a double silk sieve; reduce the consommé to a light glaze: this will serve you for different purposes. When you have ‘Sautez the fillets, drain the butter; take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, a little of the glaze of fowl and truffles, and a spoonful of thick cream; keep stirring the fillets in the sauce, and dish them alternately, a large fillet and a filet mignon. Pour the sauce over the parts that have no truffles on them, and that are not glazed; if you dress the dish with care, it will be very good. ss . 171 No. 16,—Scollops of Chicken, wiih Truffles, SEE. Scollops of Fowl, No. 5, page 157.. You must always reduce to a glaze, a little consommé, into which you have put the parings of the truffles. When reduced, strain it through a sieve, that the parings may not injure the sauce. Then use a small quantity of it with the sauce of the saute and add a little cream to whiten the sauce. No. 17.—Scollops of fat Pullets a la Conti, with Truffles. - TE same as above, with the difference only, that you preserve the filets mignon, which you garnish with truffles, and mark them in a sauté pan, in order to be enabled to give them the shape either of garlands, crescents, &c. &c. Butter the sauté pan, and put in the filets mignons, that you have larded with bacon; divide the thickest part of the fillets, preserve the right side point, turn over the two parts . that you have divided, and give them the shape of a dart or arrow. Another time you may convert them into the shape of an S, and dish them round your scollops, bit ae: are dressed i in the middle in the shape of an obelisk. No. 18.—Scollops of Chicken a Essence of Cucumbers. Scottop the fillets of four fat pullets; mark them ina sauté pan with some clarified butter, and a little salt over them : cover them with around piece of paper till dinner time. The sauce is to be made in the following manner : take eight very green cucumbers, cut off the ends, and apply the tip of your tongue to taste them: if they should taste bitter, do not use them. Slice those only that are good about the size of an half-crown piece; take out all the seed; and put the parings with a few minced cucumbers, to sweat in a little butter till they are melted ; marinade the . 172 large slices with a little salt and vinegar, to draw the water from them, then lay those slices on a clean towel to drain, / and put them into a stew-pan with four spoonfuls of sauce - tournée, a small bit of sugar, a little salt, and let them stew gently. When they are done,-drain them: then mix the whole of that sauce with the parings, and let it boil _ gently, in order to extract all the butter: when there is- none left, reduce this purée till it becomes thick, then mix three or four spoonfuls of béchamelle; and strain the whole through a tammy, like a purée. When dinner time is come, put the scollops over the stove, after having sautez them, drain the butter, and put them into the sauce, which must always be kept very thick. ‘The moment you are going to send up, drain the cucumbers in a hair sieve, and put them with the scollops; mix a little thick cream with the scallops; taste whether they are well seasoned, and send up either with or without contis, according to your own taste, No. 19.—Wings of Chicken 2 la Maréchale. SEE wings of fowl a la St. Laurent, No. 21, page 155. No. 20.—Blanquette of Chicken 2 la Turque. Take a cold fowl or chicken, and cut it into scallops, in the shape of half-crown pieces: have ready some rice, well- washed, and which has been bciled in rich broth or con- sommé; let the rice be thick, make it richer with a few spoonfuls of béchamelle; dish it en buisson; put the scollops of chicken en miroton up to the top.of the buisson; keep the whole hot, well covered, and when ready to send up, mask with a sauce & blanquette, or a béchamelle. Lo this dish I prefer the following. 173 No. 21.—Santé of Fillets of fat Pullets a la Turque. - Taxe the fillets of three fat pullets, tear off the skin, and cut the sinews out of the filets mignons; stick two together, and you then will have nine fillets: put the whole into a sauté pan, with some clarified butter, and a little salt (never put any pepper in white made dishes), and cover them with © paper to prevent the dust. At dinner time have some rice ready that has swelled in rich consommé; the rice must be kept thick: mix two spoonfuls of béchamelle with it, anda small bit of very fresh butter. This rice is dressed en buisson in the centre of the sauté, which is made in the same man- her as the sauté au supréme, with the filets round it. | No. 22.—Sauté of Fillets of fat Pullets, sautez aw Supréme. SEE No. 22, page 156, Fillets of fowl au supréme. No. 23.— Wings of fat Pullets 4 la Dauphine. Sree No. 30, page 159, Wings of fowl 4 la Dauphine. No. 24.— Boudins of Fillets of Chicken 2 la Reine. Sze No. 31, page 160. No. 25.—Boudins of Chicken & la Richelieu. Look into the Chapter of Farces, for the method of mak- ing quenelles, The boudins a la Richelieu, are the same thing , as a farce a quenelles, made of either veal, or fowl, rabbits, whitings, carp, &c. Sweat some white onions that are cut into small dice, when well done drain them in a hair sieve, in order that there may not remain the least particle of butter; work the farce with a wooden spoon before you put the onions in, to prevent their breaking, for it is requisite 174 that the onions should remain entire in the boudins a la Riche= lieu. Next let this farce stand to cool. When it is quite cold, roll it in the shape of a pudding of the length of the dish, and poach it in the following manner. After having rolled the puddings, rub with butter a stew-pan large enough to contain the puddings with ease; lay them over the butter : pour some boiling water with a little salt into the stew-pan, and let them boil gently, till you see they are swelled pro- perly: then drain and let them cool. When cold, mould them of an equal size, then dip them into yolks of eggs well beaten, with a little salt; and then slightly into crumbs of bread, next into eggs again, and once more slightly into crumbs of bread: then fry them on a clear fire; they only want to get a fine colour: drain them with a clean towel, dish them, and pour over them an Italienne. Some people make use of the ‘sauce d’atielets, in that case it must be poured hot over the puddings. When they are cold, and the sauce begins to cool, put some equally with your knife on each square.. Dip them into crumbs of bread. Take © care that you make them into regular squares ; then prepare an omeletie, by which is meant yolks and whites of eggs, beat up with a little salt. The puddings are to be dipt only once into this preparation; give them a good colour by frying in very hot dripping; you may serve them sometimes with crumbs of bread, and sometimes white. Epicures will pre- fer them white, without the crumbs of bread, i at the instant they are poached. No. 26.—Boudins,. or Puddings a la Sefton. Make some quenellés of fowl, in which you introduce small mushrooms, cut in the shape of dice ; sweat them well over aslow fire. When they are well done, put them intoa hair sieve to drain, and mix them with the farce in the same manner as the boudins @ la Richelieu; then poach the bou- dins, and dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them as a Gee ia ee ae 175 the above-mentioned. Reduce the liquor of the mushrooms with four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and let the whole boil on the corner of the stove to get the butter out, When there is no more fat left in the sauce, give it a good season- ing, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs and a little cream, and serve it under the boudins. Sometimes serve the boudins without their having been dipt into eggs and crumbs of bread, but then keep the sauce a little thicker, to cover them, and put over each of them two small fillets larded and glazed of alight colour; put underneath the sauce made a little thinner. In order to give the larded fillets a proper shape, take a piece of carrot, ora bit of bread of the same shape and size, put over the carrot a thin slice of fat bacon, to prevent the fillets from smelling of it; bind the fillets over the carrot, and put them into the oven till they are firm, then glaze them, and put them over the boudin after having poured the sauce over, which “must be thick; when the boudins are covered, put a spoonful of consommé to make the sauce thinner, and put it under. No. 27.—Quenelles of Chicken with clarified Consommé. . _ Tux quenelles are to be rolled much about the size of a thick cork, and are to be put into a stew-pan rubbed with butter, as directed above.. You must have ready some fowl -consommé very clear, yet rich: drain the quenelles on a clear : cloth, put them into a silver stew-pan, and pour the con- sommé gently over them, that they may not break, and that the consommé may remain clear. ie Nae _ Observation.—This dish is seldom called for in England. The other quenelles are made in the same manner, but only of various sizes. There are quenelles called @ la cuillidre, or spoon, which are prepared in the following manner: take two spoons, one of which is always to be kept in hot water ; fill the other with some farce, which you shape with a knife: es ee . whefi yout quenelle is quite round, with the other spoon you take it out, and put it over some butter in a stew-pan, and so on with the rest. ‘This manner of preparing quenelles is also practised in dressing entrées of fish. The farce & ~ quenelles not only makes good entrées, but is indispensably necessary in the-making of la Chambord, la financiére, le -ragott & UV Allemande, la Godard; la Toulouse, and all . garnitures in general. No. 28.—Risolles of Fouls. _ Risoiizs were formerly made with a farce fine, either of fowl, or rabbit, (See Farces). Spread some feuilletage*, and lay, at equal distances balls of the farce. Then use the paste-brush over the paste, round the farce, and fold the paste, which you press all round, in order to make the bor- ders stick close together. Then run a videlle goudronnée round the paste, so as to cut the risolles in the shape ofa crescent. When you have about two dozen, fry them, and 4 send them up with fried parsley in the middle. Now the , risolles are commonly made in the following manner: have some minced fowl, that is, the white fleshy part, which you put into a velouté reduced ; give it a good seasoning, and ‘ then let it cool. When cold, divide it into small’balls, and. | wrap them up in paste, fry them, and serve up garnished with fried parsley. | | . No. 29.—Croquettes of Chickens au Velouté. Taxes the flesh of roast chickens, which you cut into small dice of an equal size; put them into a béchamelle re- duced, then let them cool ; next mould them of the shape of a cork ; dip them into an omelette, and then into crumbs of bread ; lastly, fry them till of a light brown, and serve up * Feuilletage, or puff paste, . 177 with some fried parsley of a good gteen colour: This re- quiring a quantity of white flesh of chickens; is termed most naturally an entrée de desserte, remnants of cold chicken. ‘No. 30.—Fricassée of Chickens au naturel. Take a Couple of fat chickens, empty them, and singe them till tle flesh gets firm, in order that they may cut better, and the skin may not be injured, and cover every part of the chickens: some persons neglect this operation, but the flesh of chickens intended for a fricassée, ot a raw marinade must be made fitm. Next carve your chickens as neatly as possible, and each will supply you with ten pieces. Take out the lungs, and the spungy substance that is within the loins, and wash the niembers in luke-warm water ; let thein disgorge all the blood, and blanch them in boiling water, that the flesh may be made firm, and that you may give the members a good shape; drain them from that water, and put them into cold water ; when cooled, put two ounces of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with half a pint of mush- rooms, a bunch of parsley and of small green onions; add the chickens, and put the stew-pan over the fire. When theschickéfs have been fried lightly, dust a little salt and flour over them ; moisten with the liquor they were blanched in. Let them boil for about three-quarters of an hour: skim off all the butter and scum; then put the members into another stew-pan, reduce the sauce, and strain it through a tammy over the chickens. This stew-pan is to be put into a bain marie till dinner time; then thicken the fricassée with the yolk of four eggs and a little cream : it is to be observed, that if the fricassée does not boil, the thick-. | | ening will not be thoroughly done. Some people add a little lemon juice, but cthers do not use any, and they are right, for lemon is admissible only in fricassées of a high N 178 relish. It must be particularly observed, that when you put lemon, you must put more seasoning. No, 31.—Fi ricassée of Chickens &@ la Paysanne *, Tuts fricassée is to be prepared in the same way as that above, only boil four onions in it, which however are to be taken out again. Take about three dozen of small white onions of an equal size, peel without injuring them, blanch them in water first, next boil them in a little consommé with a little sugar and salt; they must simmer only. When done,‘leave them in the liquor. When it is dinner time, put some chopped parsley into the sauce after having thickened it. Toss the fricassée gently, in order that all the members may be equally covered with the parsley, and dish it: then put the onions on a cloth to drain, that they may not thin the sauce, and put them with the sauce over the meat. Lemon in this fricassée is requisite, and you must give more seasoning to it than to that above; you must also add a little ground pepper or Cayenne to it. No. 32.—Fricassée & la Chevaliére. Tuis is prepared in the same manner as No. 30, with this only difference, that you lard the fillets ; which is a method Ido not approve of. You must cut off the filets mignons and the wings ; the filets mignons only are to be larded, but keep the wings entiie, and make the fricassée as usual ; when it is dished with the sauce, lay the four filets mignons on each corner of the dish, with sweetbreads of lamb in the middle; by this means the members are all left entire except the breast. The small fillets are to be done by put- * Fricassée of chicken is a dish of as frequent occurrence as bread ; if it is well done, it may be given for a trial dinner; very few cooks are able to make a good fricassée. 1 consider this dish the most wholesome and the least expensive of any, as it requires only water to make it well. Es sc: ERG IIS et tt aa a ee A Eisai i . 179 ting them into a buttered sauté pan; sprinkle a little salt over them, and put them into the oven; as soon as they _ are white they are done; glaze them of a nice colour, and serve up. The sweetbreads of lamb may be done the same, but they are longer doing. No. 33.—Fricassée of Chickens a la St. Lambert. Make a broth of all sorts of vegetables*, Mark the Jricassée as above, moisten with the vegetable broth, and proceed as usual. This fricassée, instead of being white, is rather of a brown colour. | No. 34.—Fricassée of Chickens 2 la Dauphine. Ir this is made on purpose for the day, the sauce must — be very thick ; let it cool, next pour the sauce equally over each member, dip them into crumbs of bread, equalize your pieces, and dip them into an omelette, and next into crumbs of bread asecond time. Fry them till of a light brown, and under them serve a velouté. This dish is also an entrée of : desserte. When a fricassée of chickens has been taken down oe untouched, serve it up again the next day in this manner. * . No. 25.— Marinade of Chickens 2 la St. Florentin. a, Take two very young fat chickens, singe them till they are firm; cut them in pieces as if for a fricassée ; put them Kio an earthen-pot with a few leaves of parsley, a few slices of onion, a little salt and pepper; then squeeze a lemon or ‘two over the limbs, and marinade them for a couple of hours. The marinade is to be stirred every now and then. At dinner time drain the chickens, beat the whites of two eggs, and dip the pieces first into it, next into flour; cover * The vegetables are carrots, turnips, onions, celery, parsley, &e. &e, n2 180 them all over, that they may be made of a good equal | colour; then fry them, but take care that the dripping is not too hot, for fear the chickens should be too brown and not done through ; drain them on a clean towel, and serve under them a powwrade, or love-apple sauce. No. 36.—Friteau of fat Chickens. Tuis dish is prepared as that above, but is to be garnished with a few fried eggs. Serve up with love-apple sauce. You must select very fresh eggs, and fry them in sweet salad oil. Observe, that you must use very little oil, other- wise the eggs will break to pieces; puta little oil into the corner of the omelette pan, and fry them one: by one of a very good colour, and not too much; then glaze them and garnish with them. ues, No. 37.—Fricassée of Chickens 2 la Bardoux. Tuis is prepared as that of No. 30. After having thickened your fricassée, take a few onions cut into dice. Sweat them in alittle butter, but take care they do not get brown; drain them, put them into the sauce, and cover the fricassée with them. 6 No. 38.—The Capilotade of Chickens. * Tus is an entrée of desserte. Take two chickens that have been either roasted or stewed, cut them as for eatingy! flay them, and mark them in a stew-pan like a salmi: now pour a brown Italienne over them, and let them simmer gently over a slow fire, that the sauce may not stick to the pan. Then have thin slices of bread cut into the shape of flat pears, that you fry in butter till they are of a light brown; dish them between the members, glaze the fried bread, and pour the Jtalienne over the chickens only. 18) ~ Po ame 4 : ; : Athy Wt No. 89.— Members of Chickens au Soleil, or Marinade cuite. Tuis is also an entrée of desserte. The marinade cuite is to be prepared in the following manner: puta little butter into a stew-pan, with four shalots, an onion, and a carrot cut into dice, a little parsley, a few roots of ditto, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, clove, and some spice. Let the whole lay on the fire till the vegetables are of a light brown; then moisten with a little vinegar and water. When the mari- nade is done enough, season it, give it a high relish, then pour it over the members of the chickens; let the whole boil for a minute or two, and let it cool till dinner time; drain the members, dip them into proper paste, (See Batter) and fry them. Serve under them a brown poivrade, No. 40.—Marinade of Chickens 4 la Orlie, Tuis is the same as the St. Florentin, No. 35, with the only difference, that you mix a few crumbs of bread with the | flour, into which the limbs are to be dipped. No. 41.—Minced Chickens & la Polonoise. Take the fleshy part of roasted chickens, chop it very small, and put the whole into a well seasoned béchamelle, Send up ina vol aw vent, or a bord de plat, with poached eggs over; if you have a deep dish, send them with fried ead round the dish only. : Sr vie No, 42,—Blanquette of Chickens with green Pease. Tuts dish is made out of roast chickens that have already been served up, otherwise it would be very expensive, as it would require five chickens at least to make it, and it would be but a small dish after all. Cut scollops of chickens as 182 large as possible, give them nearly a round shape, but it matters not whether they are of different sizes: put them — into the sauce 2 blanquetie as directed, with white pease, but not till you have thickened the sauce. i ste Ree No. 43.—Soufflé of Chickens 2 la Créme. Tuts dish is also made of the remnants of roasted chickens: take off the white flesh, and mince it very small, and pound it in a mortar with a little Déchamelle, and a good lump of fresh butter, and salt and pepper; with this mix the yolks of four eggs. Strain the whole through 4 tammy, or a hair sieve; then beat the white of five eggs till made in a single body; mix these with the former préparation, and put the whole in a dish @ souffler, or in a croutade that has been raised like the crust of a pdtéchaud. It will be done in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the quantity. It is to be observed, that if the oven is too. hot, the outside of the soufflé will be burnt, although the inside is not done enough. This therefore must be carefully attended to. : No. 44.—Gratin of Fillets of Chickens with Velouté. Tuts is likewise an entrée of desserte ; mince the flesh of | cold roasted chickens, which you put into a velowté well: reduced; then make a border to a dish if you are without a deep one, about an inch thick, and put the minced meat in the middle. Your mince must be thick, and levelled with a knife; dust it over with crumbs of bread; pour some drops of clarified butter over the crumbs, then throw some more crumbs over, and again some clarified butter and crumbs of bread. Then give a colouring with the salaman- der, which you must hold at a distance, otherwise it would spoil the colour, whicli must be acquired gradually. Next ge A re * 183 cut pieces of bread in balls, and in the shape of corks, fry them in butter, with which alternately garnish your mince all round, and serve up quite hot. Before you put the mince, pour some of the sauce into the dish to reduce to gratin. No. 45.—Galaniine of fat Chickens. — _. Taxx a nice fleshy chicken, which empty and pick nicely. When picked neatly, bone it without injuring the flesh. Take some slips of ham and some truffles, which cut into bits of the same thickness at least, if you cannot make them of the same length; cut the flesh of the chickens into fillets, and add a few slices of veal; of these form a kind of bed, in such a manner as that when they are cut the slices may be chequered ; season with all sorts of spices, salt, &c., then close the skin of the chicken, sow up the back, and give it a nice shape before you put it into the stew-pan. You must have some calf’s foot jelly ready, for the chicken is much sooner done than the calf’s foot; then mark the chicken in a stew-pan, and cover it with layers of bacon; season it with salt and pepper, a bunch of parsley and small onions, a some thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, a little spice, a few carrots, — a couple of onions, and some slices of veal; then mix a little broth and a small quantity of the jelly, The chicken a must not boil above an hour. f Then take it off the fire, and let it cool in the liquor, that the slices may stick together by means of the jelly; “for were this neglected, the galantine would break to pieces on being cut. If you send it up hot, you may pour over it such sauce as you think proper; but it must be a brown : sauce, or sorrel, or onions made brown in an Espagnole ; | however, it is much better to serve a galantine cold with ) jelly; take some of the liquor, beat the white of two or three eggs, which mix with the cold jelly after having skimmed off the flat; then again put the whole on the 184 fire, and keep stirring till the liquor is white; then let it boil gently; next take the jelly off the fire, and lay. it aside with a cover and fire over it: when quite clear, strain it through a cloth and let it cool, to. be used when wanted. If you serve the jelly cold, season it with more salt and pepper, as above-mentioned. | No. 46,—Boudins of Chickens 4 la Ude. Make these boudins with quenelles, like those 2 la Richelieu: dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them to a light brown: make on the top an oblong square opening, empty the boudins, taking care to preserve however a coat thick enough to admit a salpicon of chickens, truffles, and mushrooms, cut into small dice and thrown into a well seasoned béchamelle; take six jilets mignons, as three are wanted for each boudin: give them the shape of the handle of a basket, after having larded them with bacon, or de« corated them en conti, as it is called. Then take a very large carrot, cut it of the same size as the puddings, wrap it up in thin layers of bacon, put the filets mignons over the carrot, and dust a little salt over them: then put the whole into an oven; do not let it be too much done; but of a light brown only. Glaze them when ready to send up the dinner, pour the salpicon into the puddings with the sham basket han- dles at an equal distance over the puddings; mind the fillets are not to be thrust in too far, that they may really look like basket handles. This dish is intended for a grand. dinner, when common dishes are not to make their appearance. No. 47.—Grenade of Fillets of Chicken. You must have a mould ribbed like a melon; cut very thin layers of bacon; line the mould with them: then take fillets of chicken larded with bacon, and others de- ' - 185 corated with truffles. Have sweetbreads of lamb already done, one of which put between each rib, and the thickest part of the filets mignons. When you have thus arranged alternately one fillet larded and another decorated with truffles, cover the whole of your fillets with a farce fine. (See Farce Fine). Put a thick salpicon in the centre, and cover it with the farce; stick it with force-meat, then put the mould au bain marie, or in the oven, in order to poach the whole at once; next turn the grenade on a dish dentrées, dry the larded slices with the salamander, and glaze them. When the fillets or slices are of a light brown, uncover the rest, glaze them slightly, and serve them with an Espagnole*. No. 48.—Turbans of Fillets of Chickens 4 la Sultane. Take the filets mignons of chicken, lard them with. bacon ; have ready a farce a quenelles, rather thick, which you keep in ice, that it may acquire substance, and be more easily worked ; cut a large piece of bread, which you cover with thin slices of bacon, put the bread in the middle of the dish, then lay the farce & quenelles all round, of about three inches in height; stick the fillets in the farce @ quenelles ; they are not to be stuck perpendicularly, though at equal distances, leaving a separation between each fillet for the reception of cocks’ kidneys. ‘These are to be put in only when you are going to send up: cover your dish with an earthen pot, or a lid that closes hermetically. The turban As to be put into the oven, and when done glaze the fillets with the salamander. Make small holes for the admission — of the cocks’ kidneys, which must be very white, and made to resemble so many pearls. If you have nothing to cover the dish, use layers of bacon, but a plain cover is preferable, * The grenade is likewise a dish for grand dinners, and is excellent when well drest. 186 as it is free from fat, and the quel are better and more easily poached. 5 Take out the large piece of. bread; drain the fat off _ by means of crumbs of bread; and put into the centre of the dish a blanquetie of chickens. (See Blanquetie). When in the season of truffles, garnish alternately with a perle or kidney, and a ball made out of a truffle, ready done; and then put scallops with truffles in the middle. 187. CHAP. X. : ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG AND oLp. eee : No. ].—Whole Partridges 4. Espagnole. Ir is necessary to observe, that except for partridges with cabbage, or partridges with purée of leniilles, young ones are required: these in general have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen that the claws and legs are of a grey, or even of a bluish colour; and yet they may be tender. Look at the extremity of the wing, if it is sharp pointed and whitish, the bird is still tender, but if those marks do not exist, the bird is invariably old, and consequently unfit for use, except as abovementioned ; or for sauces, con- sommés, and cold patties. | The size of the dish must determine the number of birds you are to dress ; in general three are wanted; empty them as usual, and take care not to injure the skin: pick them well, mix a little butter, salt, and lemon-juice: put an equal proportion into the body of each bird; cut off the sinew that is under the joint of the legs, truss the legs up towards the breast, and then sew up the birds in the fol- lowing manner: first put the packthread needle through the stump of the right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, and next across the body; then again through the other stump; let the packthread be very tight, and fasten the knot. Now from the back run the needle through the side beneath the leg, then above the pinion below the breast, so as to perforate the breast bone: let the needle 188 come out from the part parallel to that where first it was introduced, and then from through the side to the back, and fasten the packthread. Give a good shape to the birds; which is an indispensable branch of knowledge in the art of cookery. A man cannot be really a thorough good cook unless he is practically acquainted with every branch of his art; and this branch of it is very important, though it is certainly not easy to teach how to truss poultry or game by any written direction ; you may as well attempt .to teach drawing without a master. Seasoning and murkig may be explained, but practice alone can make a man perfect. Such however as have been initiated, may derive great ad- vantage from such a work as this. Put the partridges be- tween layers of bacon, the same as legs of fowl, and pour a poéle over them: if you happen to have no poéle ready, use some of the pot-top, with a little salt, parsley, and onions, well seasoned, with spice, salt and pepper. They will be done in the course of twenty minutes, but let it be ona slow fire; drain and put them into the dish, and pour an Espagnole over them, in which you have put a little glaze of game, to give it the taste of game. N. B.—All dishes of game require more seasoning than white fowl. No. 2.—Young Partridges a la Montmorenci. TAKE some young partridges, which empty, and truss as in No. 1; dip the breasts into boiling water ; when. made firm, dip them immediately in cold water: next lard them with thin slits of bacon; mark them in a stew-pan with slices of fat bacon all round only, pour a little poéle or any other liquid, enough to immerse about one half of the birds. Have a brisk fire over them to seize the bacon ; when they have been stewed for twenty minutes glaze them, and. probe them near the back ; if no bloed issues it is a sign that they en Pe Nort 7 189 are ladiie ils ot Drain them, glaze deli aseenine simi : and send them rm with a ragott 2 la giineniodes No. 3.—Young Bostrideses a la Barbarie. Truss the birds asin No. 1 ; instead of butter stuff them with chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned > pepper, and allspice: then cut small pieces of tru! s in the shape of nails; make holes with a penknife in the breasts of the birds, widen the holes with a skewer and fill them with the truffles; let them be nailed in very regularly: Then mark them as in No. 1. They are to be stewed also in the same manner. Serve under them an Italienne with truffles. N. B.—Take care to drain them well, otherwise the fat ‘ will isis both sd taste and look of the sauce. No. bie, oung Partridges 4 la Dreux. ret Is nearly the same as the foregoing dish, only 1 in- stead of using truffles you must lard with small pieces of ham : use the pen-knife to make the holes, as larding pins. | would spoil the look of the birds, which are to be served whole. Mark and stew as above, and serve up with the essence of game*. No. 5.—Young Partridges & la Crapaudine. Cur off the claws after having emptied and picked the birds; make a hole below the joint of the leg; truss the leg inside of the body; singe the birds over the flame till the flesh gets firm ; pinch the breast with your left hand, ascollop the breasts without quite reaching the skin, turn * Essence of game is used to give all the flavour of game; you must con- centrate the taste, by keeping the vessel in which you make the consommé, hermetically covered: and by not putting too much seasoning, which would cover the flavour of the birds. ~ 190 the flesh over on the es beat the bird flat, dust it with a little salt and pepper; then dip it twice into clarified butter and crumbs of bread, broil it, and send it up with an Jta- lienne, or essence of game. * No. 6.—Young Partridges a la Givry. In this case you add a decoration to the birds, in the fol- lowing manner, after having trussed and stewed them as in No. 1. At dinner time take rings of white onions, let them be stewed white in a little consommé, then take a cutter of the same size as the inside of the rings of the onions, cut round pieces of truffles that have been braized with the birds; mind the truffles must be of avery black colour: (the parings are to be chopped and mixed with the Jtalienne:) the round pieces of truffles are to be put over the breasts of the birds, three on each side, mosaic fashion, and the rings of onions round the truffles, and one over the pouch. If the truffles do not stick well, use a little glaze to make them stick, as they are liable to fall off. Do not mask with the sauce, which must be poured into the bottom of the dish ; the sauce must be an Jtalienne with trufiles, mix with it a little glaze of game, to give the taste of it. No. 7.—Compottie of young Partridges @ blanc. \ Take four young partridges, cut off the claws, and truss them with the legs inwards ; next singe them. Then takea few pieces of the breast of bacon, which cut into the size of small corks, and boil in water for half an hour. Next fry them white, and take them off from the fire as soon as they are done. Now fry the partridges white also, in but- ter and the fat of the bacon. When they are quite firm, take them out of the stew-pan. Then throw aspoonful of flour into the butter; fry this Nour white. Next pour in a little 191 - broth till the sauce: is thin enough to be skimmed, (for it is to be observed, that if a sauce is too thick it can never be skimmed), then put in some parings of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and season with a little thyme, | bay-leaves, a clove, a little salt, and a very small lump of sugar. Stew the birds in this sauce, the same as a fricassée of chickens; if onions are agreeable put a few small ones to give arelish. When the compotte is done, skim off all the fat, and drain the partridges in a clean stew-pan; drain all the bacon and mushrooms, which you throw into the stew-pan with the partridges; reduce the sauce after it has been skimmed; strain it through a tammy over the birds, and put the stew- pan au bain marie: now take some small white onions of an equal size, which have been boiling in a little consommé with a small lump of sugar; have also some mushrooms, fried white in butter; when the onions and mushrooms are ready, set the compoite a boiling; thicken the sauce with the yolks of four eggs beat with a little cream and lemon- juice; next put in the small onions, mushrooms, and bacon, with some quenelles, if you think proper to garnish your entrée. If the dish is of a large size, put a crust of bread, cut into the shape of cocks’-combs, and glazed, between each bird, and send up with a good seasoning. No. 8.—Compotte of young Pariridges 2 brun. Do exactly the same thing as in No, 73 instead of moist- ening with consommé, use gravy of veal. Sweat the onions in a little butter till they are of a fine brown, then let them boil in a little gravy of veal; they should be of an equal size; give them a good colour. Add truffles and mush- rooms, if you have any. No, 9.—Partridges and Cabbages, dressed. _ Take -a couple of old partridges, empty and truss them, - with the legs inward; simmer them on the fire till they get ~ 192 firm. Blanch two cabbages, that you have cut in halves; when the cabbages are blanched, put them into cold water to cool, cut off the tops of the middle, squeeze them so as to leave no water; have also blanched about a pound and a half of breast of bacon with the cabbage; put this bacon into a small braizing-pan, and the birds close to the bacon. Next put in the cabbage, a few carrots turned round, two or three onions, a bunch of parsley seasoned with salt, and a small quantity of allspice, bay-leaves, thyme, salt and pepper; cover the whole with a few layers of | bacon, and with a sheet of buttered paper; then moisten with a braize, if you have any, if not, take some of the pot-. top, but in the latter case you must season a little more. Set the contents of the braizing-pan boiling, and this being done, put it over a slow fire for three hours and a half; Now take out the layers of bacon, the onions, and the car- rots. Place a large sieve over a dish of the same size, turn the birds into the sieve, take a clean towel, mould the cab- bages into a large roller, squeeze them so as to have no fat left; then take a plain mould, garnish it with very thin layers of bacon, make a kind of flower in the middle of the mould _ with the carrots, and put a border of small glazed onions all round the top; next take some of the cabbage with a ladle, with which fill the mould. At the same time let the birds be covered all over with the cabbage equally on all sides. Make a rosasse of carrots on each face of the mould, which fill to the brim. Then put it into the oven to keep warm. At dinner time turn the mould into a dish, let it lay for a moment to drain out all the broth, and send up with a nice Espagnole over it. Partridges with cabbages, in my opinion, is far superior when not put intoa mould; squeeze ‘the cabbage the same as before in a clean towel, to give it the shape of a large rolling-pin, then take the two ends of it to make a bed for the bird on the dish; cut the cabbages of an equal size, dress them round the partridges with a a carrot between each cabbage; put also some sausages, and 173" | cover the whole when well dressed, with a good Espagnole : ee in which you have reduced a little of the liquor of the cabbages ; ; if the cook has any ingenuity, this dish will _ be most t excellent, and exhibit a beautiful appearance. | te BS | No. 10. —Sauté of Fillets of young Partridges, au Fimet of Game. Vv ater i Peels ‘TAKE four young partridges, rather stale, that they may have more flavour, and be more tender; flay them, take up the fillets, detach the filets mignons from the upper fillets, cut out the sinews of the filets mignons, and flatten the fillets with the handle of your knife dipped into cold water, the blade being also dipped inte the same; pass it gently over the fillets, leaning heavy on the table, in order to take off the second skin of the fillets only: trim the fillets nicely, mark them with clarified butter in a sauté pan; lay the filets mignons over the others, dust a little salt, and cover the whole with a round piece of paper till dinner time, then sautez the fillets over a very brisk and equal fire. With _. the remnants of the birds, put in a few thin slices of veal and ham in a small stew-pan, lay the remnants over the veal, and moisten the whole with a few spoonfuls of consommé. Let the whole sweat on a slow fire, and when the meat is sweated thorovghly, moisten with boiling consommé, to which add a few mushrooms, if you have any, together with a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole stew for.an hour anda half; strain this fumet through asilk sieve, and reduce it to glaze, to use it when required... When the fillets have been sautez, drain the butter; then take four or » five spoonfuls of velouté, some of the above glaze of game, _ and keep stirring without allowing them to boil. Taste _ whether seasoned enough: pour a little thick cream to | whiten the sauce, and make it mellower; have as many slices _ of bread cut into the shape of the fillets, fried in butter, as | oO ja ee I STERIL cae one SE eS aetna ee whGa* you have large fillets, glaze the fried bread lightly, then dish the sauté in the following manner: a crouton, and next a large fillet with the thick end upwards, then a filet mignon with the point upwards, then again a crouton, &c. &c. as above. Mask the fillets only, not the croutons, and send up to table. — No. 11.—Cutlets of young Partridges en ab! sha with Tile TAKE five young partridges, flay them as above; take off, first the fillets, and next the filets mignons; tear off the se- cond skin from the fillets, point, the smallest bone of the pi- nion, and stick it into the end of the fillet. Then season with salt and pepper; rub the fillets over with a brush that has been dipped into the yolk ofan ege ; then dip them into crumbs of bread, next into clarified butter; and again into erumbs of bread; just before dinner time broil them on a very sharp fire. Sautez the filets mignons, of which you make a blanquette, in which you must mix some glaze of game. Put the blanquette into the middle of the dish, and the broiled fillets all round. Mask the fillets with some light glaze of game. No. 12.—Sauté of Fillets of young Partridges 2 la Sefton. . Take five young partridges, as tender as possible, and of an equal size, flay them, take up the fillets, and tear off the second skin. Next slit the fillets at three equal distances : have ready some truffles that are chamfered and cut into the shape of cocks’-combs, take about eight of these slices of truffles, lay them equally over one another, and introduce some into each of the slits that you have made, and next into the other two parts: take care not to make the slits too deep; do the same with regard to every one of the ten fillets. The filets mignons are only to be marked in clarified butter ; 5+ do not forget to pull off the sinews, to prevent the fillets from taking a bad shape while frying. Mark the fillets ina ‘sauté pan with butter and round slices of truffles of an equal size, and sautez the fillets when dinner time is at hand. For the ‘sauce, see Sauce 2 la Lucullus; next drain the butter, put the round truffles cut in halves on the sauce, and keep ‘the other halves to lay over the fillets. Make a kind of coronet with the large fillets, and dish the blanquette in the middle, standing nearly upright, by which is meant, that you are to press upon each intermediate one. This entrée has a fine appearance when dished properly. No. 13.—Croqueties of young Partridges. THE same process as in No, 29, page 176. (Croqueties of Chickens). Only add a little glaze of game to the bé- chamelle. Let the croqueties cool, and dip them into yolks of 8g and crumbs of bread, as in No. 29, page 176. No. 14.—Soufflé of young Pariridges. Take the flesh of roasted partridges, which chop and. pound in a mortar, with a few spoonfuls of velouté, anda lump of butter: season the whole well. Mix with this purée the yolks of four or five eggs, and strain the whole through asieve. Then put it into a bason. Beat well the whites of six eggs, which you mix lightly with the purée. Let the whole be put into a dish a soufflé, and baked in the oven for twenty minutes; take care it does not burn at the top, _-which may be prevented by covering it with paper. No, 15,—Purée of Game a l Espagnole. Tuts is an entrée of desserte. Take the fleshy parts of young partridges that have been in a salmi, chop and pound them well, Warm the sauce, in which some fried bread is left simmering. Then throw the pounded meat into the 02 sauce. Strain the whole through a tammy. You need not put any seasoning, if the salmi is seasoned enough, If you should be asked for purée of game, you must make a sauce a salmi, the same as below, and put the pounded flesh of young partridges into the sauce. This purée is to be sent up in a deep dish, and covered with poached eggs. ‘this entrée is likewise very acceptable in a casserole au Tis, a vol au vent, in croustades, &c. No. 16.—Salmi of young Partridges & l Espagnole. Take five young partridges, rather stale, roast them under- done, but let them be covered. with paper, for fear they should get brown while roasting; mind, they must be kept as under-done as possible. Then carve the birds as if for eating; by which is meant the wings, legs, and breast; flay them entirely, so as not to leave a particle of skin; trim them nicely, and mark them in a clean stew-pan; cover it, and let the whole cool till the sauce is ready. ‘Take four or five shalots, some slips of ham, a carrot cut into dice, three or four mushrooms, a little parsley-root, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, two cloves, eight grains of corn pepper, and as many grains of allspice, fry all thesé ingredients in a stew- pan with a little butter, and when fried lightly, moisten with three glasses of Madeira wine, six spoonfuls of Espag- nole, and two spoonfuls of consommé; then put all the parings of the birds, namely, the loins and skin, but not the claws, as they would give a bad taste. Let them stew for an hour and a half on the corner of the stove; skim off the fat, put in a small bit of sugar to counteract the bitter taste ' of the lungs, and strain the sauce through a tammy over the © limbs; put the salmi au bain marie, and send up with fried slices of bread cut into the shape of a kite, or of bellows. If by chance you are short of Espagnole, make a little rouw, and moisten with some gravy of veal, and a few glasses of wine, 4 or rr No. 17.—Young Partridges 4 la Monglas. Tuts is also an entrée of desserte. Take three roasted or stewed birds; they must be whole; cut out the whole of the breast in a square piece, so as to form a square aper~ ture; clean away from the interior all the spongy substance, in order to put a salpicon inside of the breasts of the birds. The salpicon* is to be made in the following manner: cut into very small dice the flesh that you have taken up; cut likewise small dice of tongue and of mushrooms; if. you have any truffles. by you, a few may be added, Re- - duce a little velouié, with which you mix some glaze of game. Put the dice of meat into the velouté, season well, and put the salpicon into the aperture. Lay with a paste brush some yolk of egg all over, and put some crumbs of bread over the eggs, then some butter over that, and crumbs of bread again; use the salamander to give a colour- ing to the birds. Next keep the whole hot in an oven, and send up with an Espagnole of game. By putting a little glaze of game in the brown sauce, it gives the taste of game, No. 18.—Young Partridges en surprise. “Do as above, but instead of a salpicon make a mince of fillets of partridges only, with which stuff the birds. Dip them into eggs and crumbs of bread as above, fry them of a nice colour, and send up with a supréme of game. ‘This - sauce must be white; as you put some glaze of game into a white béchamelle, and use white sauce for the mince. * As the meat taken from the body of the bird is not sufficient to fill it again, if you have not some of the same sort of meat, it is necessary to use the various articles mentioned, as tongue, mushrooms, &c. to fill up the body. “a78* No. 19.—Quenelles of young Partridges au fumet. Maxe the quenelles as directed in its proper place, only they are to be made of the meat of young partridges. You may send them up in different ways, au consommé clair, or a Vessence, &c. &c. (See Sauces). No. 20.—Boudins of young Partridges. Make boudins de quenelles of young partridges; butter. the bottom of a stew-pan, lay the boudins over the butter, and. pour some boiling water over them, with a little salt. When poached drain them, and lay them to cool: when cold, dip them into an omelette and crumbs of bread: next fry them. Drain them well, till not a particle of dripping is left, and send up with a white Italenne under it. If you wish to send them up broiled, you must use yolks of eggs, next crumbs of bread, then butter and crumbs again, before you broil them. | No, 2].—Quenelles of Partridges a la Sefton. Take the flesh of three very young partridges, and make it into quenelles, as directed at that article. When the que- nelles are made, and are quite cold in ice, mould three bou- dins of the size of the dish, and poach them in the usual way. For the sauce, take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, and — mix with it two spoonfuls of glaze of game, three spoonfuls — of double cream, a little salt, and very little Cayenne; work the sauce very fine, and cover the quenelles with it. ‘This entrée is most delicate when well dressed. “179% CHAP. IX. RABBITS. rere ren No. 1.—Fillets of young Rabbits d la Orlie. Ir is to be observed, that warren rabbits only ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no savour but that of cabbage ; and you must be particular in using for table only young rabbits; this you may ascertain, by breaking the jaw between your thumb and finger; if they are old, they resist the pressure: feel also in the joint of the paw for a little nut; if it is gone, the rabbit is old, and not fit for fine cookery ; in such case, use them to make rabbit puddings or pies, Take four rabbits; detach the fillets, and jilets mignons: cut the large fillets of an equal size: marinade them in lemon-juice, a little parsley, a shalot cut into slices, a little | thyme, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, &c. &c. leave them in that marinade for two hours. Drain, and dip them into the white of an egg that has been well beaten, and then into some flour mixed with a few crumbs of bread, Fry them of a fine brown, and serve under them a powrade, or an Espag- nole of game; observe particularly, that the fillets must be under done. No. 2.—Turban of Fillets of Rabbits 4 la Sultane, Take the fillets of four rabbits; there will be eight; likewise the jilets mignons and kidneys; lard the eight fillets with very small slips of bacon all of an equal size. Have a ~ 180* farce a quenelles ready made out of the flesh of the legs of - the rabbits. It would be requisite to have a kind of paste- cutter, very deep, ora sweetmeat pot to put into the middle of the dish, that you may raise the turban all round it; in this case the fat might be more easily drained, which is always very abundant, if you do not place a mould in the centre of the dish. ‘Take a large piece of stale bread, cover it with a thin layer of bacon, lay it in the middle of the dish, and dress the farce a quenelles equally round on it: then — with the handle of a wooden spoon mark eight ribs, leaving an interval between each, not straight, but rather sloping; put the fillets of rabbits inside each of those ribs; and after having skinned the kidneys put them into four of the inter= _ vals two by two; in the other four put fillets of truffles, You may give to this dish a superb appearance. Mind to turn the pointed extremity of the fillets inside of the turban, otherwise they would not stick. Cover the : whole with layers of bacon. If you have an earthen pan that may cover the whole hermetically, lay it over, without — using the layers of bacon. The steam alone will prevent the fillets from getting. dry. When the turban has. been kept in the oven long enough to be well baked, glaze the fillets of a light brown, and put them into the oven again ; " take the lump of bread out from the middle of the dish, and wipe off all the fat. When going to send up put a mince of rabbits in the middle of the dish, and sauce the outside with a very good fumeét of rabbit. To make the fumeé of rabbits, you must use all the rabbit bones, with a little veal, ham, mushrooms, parsley, and green onions, &c. &c. and when that consommé has been made in the. usual way, reduce it, and then put some of the reduction with some béchamelle, to sauce the turban or any other entrée of rabbits with. Whe- _ ther the sauce is to be white or brown, you must get give it the taste of rabbits. rsi* say Spee. 2 ~ No. 3.— Mince of si bi ail diag a Tats i is an entrée de desserte. T ie the fillets of roasted rabbits, pare the sinews, then make a mince, but hold your knife on a slope, that, the thin slices may curl like shavings; put the mince into areduced velouté mixed with some glaze of game; 3 do not forget to pour into the mince a little thick cream to give it a white colour and make it mellower. You may put the mince either in a bordures, a vol au vent, a cas- serole au ris, a turban, a grenade, & gralin, pelly patties, petites casseroleites au ris, &c. &c. | No. 4.—Scollops of Rabbits aux Truffles, the same.é Ta Conti. . Take five rabbits; detach the fillets, tear off the sirius, then scollop the fillets, keeping your knife on a slope; flatten them with the handle of your knife; put the scollops into a. sauté pan with some clarified butter: have ready some truf- fies peeled and cut into slices of the same size as the scollops, mix them with the rabbits in the butter, salt, and pepper. Sautez the whole a little while before dinner time, drain the butter, and put the scollops into the sauce, in order that the truffles may give their flavour to the sauce, and likewise to the meat. Garnish the edges of the dish with a conti.* mae 5,—Blanquette of Rabbits with green Pease. Take four rabbits, detach the fillets, sautez them whole in clarified butter with a little salt and pepper; next cut * I call conti, some of the filets Jarded with small bacon, or decorated with truffles, they must be done in the following way:—Take a sauté pan, and put on the bottom of it some slices of fat bacon, lay your conti on the top of them in any shape you think proper, and powder some salt over; put them into a hot oven, and_as soon as they are firm, glaze them, and | serve them round whatever they may be wanted with, 182* them on a sheet of paper, of the size of a shilling, and put them into the sauce 2 blanquette aux pois. (See Sauces). This entrée is sent up in a vol au vent, a casserole with Ree, &e. &c. No. 6.—Scollops of Rabbits au fumet. TakE five rabbits, detach the fillets, sautez them in cla- rified butter. When done cut them as for a blanquette, and put them into a sauce made as follows: make a consommeé with the remnants of the rabbits; put a few slices of West- moreland ham in a small stew-pan, with some pieces of veal, &c. put the bones of the rabbits over them; then moisten with two spoonfuls of first broth. Let the meat sweat tho- roughly, till on thrusting your knife into it, neither scum nor blood issue. Then fill the stew-pan with boiling broth, seasoned with a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, and a few mushrooms. When the con- sommé is done enough, put a small lump of butter into a stew-pan on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, throw in a spoonful of flour: let the flour fry a little in the butter, without however getting brown. Next moisten with the consommé. Let this sauce boil gently on the corner of the stove for an hour. Skim the grease off carefully, then reduce the sauce, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs well beaten with some cream. Strain this sauce through a tammy over the scollops, and send up quite hot. This_ entrée may be served either with or without contis, in a cas- _gerole with rice, a vol au vent, or a bordure of mashed po- tatoes. This sauce being made in the same way as any other sauce for blanquette, if you should have any other entrées that require white sauces, by keeping a little of this, you will save at once expence and trouble, | 483* No. 7.—Scollops of Rabbits a la Conti. - _ SzE No.6. Only keep two fillets, which you divide into _ four pieces, cross-ways. Flatten them a little with the handle of your knife; lard them with thin slips of bacon. — - Then batter a sauté pan. Give the above pieces whatever shape you may think proper, powder a little salt over them, and bake them. Do not let them be too long in the oven; glaze them nicely, and dish them round the scollops. No. 8.—Young Rabbits en friteau. TAKE several very young rabbits; skin them and cut them in four, according to the size; let them be marinaded as in No. 1 of this Chapter. Drain them, and dip them into flour ; then fry them till of alight brown. Serve up with a powrade, or alove-apple sauce. Sa No. 9.—Rabbits 4 la Vénitienne. TakE three young rabbits; skin and empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces in the following manner: take up the shoulders, then the head from the neck, divide the back into four parts ; take off the legs on each side of the saddle, and cut them into two pieces. Have ready half a pottle of mushrooms chopped very fine, with parsley and shalots the same. Put.a small lump of butter into a stew- pan with a little rasped bacon : put the sweet herbs on the fire with a little salf, pepper, and allspice; let them stew for a short time on a slow fire. When sufficiently fried put in the rabbits, make them get firm with these sweet herbs, till they are sufficiently done. Take the limbs out from the seasoning, lean the stew-pan sideways to skim the fat that comes uppermost, put a spoonful of sauce tournée, or if you have none, add to it a small tea-spoonful of flour, moistened "184" with a spoonful or two of*consommé, let it boil a few minutes, and make a thickening of the yolks of four eggs ; a put the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne pepper; stir the sauce well: if it happens to be too thick, make it thin- ner with a spoonful of broth: keep it quite hot, throw the members into the sauce again, and send up quite hot. Piiiyg sauce must be rather highly seasoned. No. 10.— Rabbits en caisses. Make cases of paper either square or round; do the rab- bits as above with sweet herbs; when nearly done put them into the paper cases and the sweet herbs over them, with the rasped crust of a two-penny French loaf, to absorb the fat. Then put the paper-cases into an oven. Before you send up squceze over it the juice of a lemon, and pour in a few spoonfuls of Espagnole. No. 11.—Gibloties of Rabbits. TAKE two young rabbits to make a giblotie: but observe, they must be both alike as to quality ; if you put a young one with an old one, the young one will be done to rags, when the other will scarcely be done at all. Skin them, and cut them into pieces as above. Have ready some pieces of breast of bacon cut into the shape of small corks, which are blanched in order that they may not be briny. Fry them in the stew-pan with a little butter, to give them a light brown colour. Take the bacon out of the stew-pan, and put the members of the rabbits into it; when made firm take them out also ; throw a good handful of flour with the butter into the stew-pan, let it get a little brown; next moisten with some gravy of veal. Let the sauce boil alittle, to see whether it is not too thick: if so,: you will never be able to skim the fat off, and accordingly it will never be of ~ on +185* a good colour. When. sufficiently stewed put, in the mem- | bers, bacon, a bunch of parsley and green: onions, thyme, | bay-leaf, clove, &e. &c.; and when the sauce has boiled _ for an hour, put the members into another clean stew-pan, _ and drain the sauce through a tammy, then take some turned | mushrooms, and some small onions and fry them white in | butter; let them boil for a quarter of an hour in the sauce. _ When you are going to send up, dish first the members, next the small white onions, and then the’ bacon and the mushrooms over. Take off the fat and scum, otherwise there can be no good cookery, and cover the whole with the sauce when reduced. . No. 12.—White Gibloties of Rabbits. Do as above, but after having dredged with flour, and — moistened with consommé let the whole stew for about an hour. Next take off all the scum and fat: shift the mem- bers into another clean stew-pan; reduce the sauce, strain | it through a tammy over the members, lay the giblotte on the fire, and when it boils, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon. This sauce, although white, must be highly seasoned. Note, if you want to make the giblotte whiter, disgorge the rabbits and blanch them. No. 13.—Fillets of young Rabbits en lorgneties. Take the fillets of four young rabbits that have been skinned ; lard them with thin bits of bacon ; when larded, make an opening on the thickest. part, by thrusting your knife nearly to the very extremity. Then run the knife in, but no farther than the middle; and.so. on with the rest. Put a little butter into a sauté pan; thrust your finger into . the opening, and put into it some carrot or turnip to keep it open; give those parts the shape of a lorgnette, or eye- 186 glass; put them for a moment into an oven, that they may _— take 2 good form. When firm, mark them in astew-pan, ~ over a bed of minced roots and vegetables, covered with © bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, &c. &c. and moisten with two spoonfuls of consommé. Let the whole stew for a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes ; drain the fillets, reduce the liquor, to which add a little glaze of a light colour, and send up with endives au veloute, or a soubise. (See Sauces). Dish en miroton, and pour the sauce in the middle. Mind this sauce must not be too liquid. 3 No. 14.—Hot raised Pie of Rabbits. ‘TaKE one or two rabbits, according to the size of your pie. Skin and empty them; then detach the legs and shoulders, which you cut into halves: from the head to the tail cut out four pieces of an equal size: then chop a shalot, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms, and stew them a little; next put the members into the butter with the sweet herbs, — ; till the flesh is quite firm; then season with salt, pepper, and spices. In the course of a few minutes drain the butter. Then make a paste (See Pastry); put the limbs into it, and put the whole into the oven, When the crust is baked enough, make a round opening, lift up this kind _ of cover, and just as you are going to send up, pourinto — the pie a ragott a la financiére over the rabbits. Be careful to drain the fat that may have remained. | N. B.—The above is the true manner of making a raised pie of rabbits. Many people make a pie-crust, which is commonly called croustade; and after having emptied it, put in a giblotte. The former method however is preferable, as it retains better the flavour of rabbit. ——— 187" ne aa yl No. 15.—Quenelles of Rabbits. _ Tuts farce is made like the generality of quenelles: the — only difference is, that you take the flesh of rabbits instead of any other meat. The legs in general are used for mak- ing the quenelles ; the fillets will supply you with another ome; so will the legs occasionally. The bones and the parings are used to make the consommé and sauces. Pass: 16.—Gratin of I Rabbits. Tails is an entrée of desserte*; take a couple of roasted rabbits ; take off the whole of the fleshy parts; then pare those that have sinews about them; mince the meat very _ fine, and put this mince into a velouté sauce reduced: take alittle of the liquor, which gratinez (by gratiné is meant, to boil it in a silver dish, till it sticks at the bottom without burning). When, the preparation is cold, stick a border of soft bread all round the inside of the dish, and put your mince into the middle: level it well with a knife: then powder crumbs of bread over it, which baste with melted. butter; and then put crumbs a second time; and baste with butter again. Then make it brown all over with a salamander, because if you were to put the dish into an_ oven hot enough to give ita colouring, the gratin would burn. Keep it hot, and send it up either with slices of bread fried in butter all round the dish, cut in the shape of corks, or with fowrets made of puff paste. No. 17.—Soufflé of Rabbits. Tuts is also an entrée of desserte. ‘Take off the flesh of roastedsrabbits, chop it very fine, and pound it: pour into it a few spoonfuls of velouté, season it well. Break half a , * Desserte, is any thing left from the preceding day. R 188* dozen of eggs, the whites on one side, the yolks on the other, throw the beaten yolks into the purée; which put om the fire a little, that the eggs may stew, but take your stew- pan off from the fire as soon as you perceive they are done ; : then add a lump of fresh butter, and work the whole well. . Next beat the six whites well, and pour them also into the above preparation, which you put into a soufflé dish, and then into the oven ten or twelve minutes before you send up. In case you should not have a dish @ soufflé, you must use a croustade or pie-crust*. No. 18.—Croquettes of Rabhits. | Se i Cur the meat of young roasted rabbits into dice, which throw into a velouté reduced, adding a little glaze of game. Let this cool, then roll it into whatever shape you please, either into balls, or in the shape of a cork, or of a pear; but in my opinion, those that are the least handled are the. best. Fry them and send up as other croquettes, garnished, with fried parsley in the middle of the dish. No. 19.—Boudins of Rabbits & la Reine. , . Prepare in the same manner as the croquettes: roll the’ meat into large boudins; dip them into eggs and crumbs of — bread, and fry them. Serve under them a velouté with a little glaze of game. For croquettes or boudins @ la reine, made of fowls, rabbits, or game, if you should have by you some sweetbread, they will be a great improvement to them, as they make them more mellow, and delicate. * By pie-crust, I mean here, the crust of a pie which has been served up and returned unbroken, It can then serve again for a soufflé. 180 6 ate ot) NO. 20: —Boudins of Rabbits a la Rickeliew IS e - TaKe some ccalice of rabbits, and fry some white onions of a light colour. Put them into a hair sieve to drain the butter, and then mix them with the quenelles ; let them cool, and roll it into two boudins of the same length as your dish. Poach them in water with a little salt, when done, tain, them on a clean cloth, and let them cool*. Next dip them into an omelette, and then in crumbs, and fry them till they are of a light brown. Send up with an Ita- lienne under. No. 21.—Legs of Rabbits @ la Maintenon. - Bonz the legs of the rabbits. Have ready some sweated herbs, the same as for Maintenon cutlets, with a little rasped bacon, salt, pepper; spices, &c. Stew the legs in those herbs til! they are done through. Let them cool. When cold, cut slips of paper of the size of the legs, or they: may be a little larger. Then take small layers of bacon, lay one on the paper, and thé leg over the bacon, then a little sea- soning, and another layer of bacon; wrap the whole in the paper, which is to be plaited equally all round. Then broil them over a slow fire, and send up hot, with no other sauce but the seasoning of the herbs. No. 22.—Rissoles of Rabbits. Take the remnants of roasted rabbits, with which make a farce fine. (See Farée Fine). Spread on the table some puff paste, but do not let it be too rich; cover it, at equal distances, with little lamps of farce moisten the paste all round the farce, then fold it in two; lean upon it all round * You may serve them ‘din hot covered with a good bécharnelle ; they have not so good an appearance, but they are better eating. P ‘190* with your fingers, that the paste may stick; then with a rowel cut it and fry it till it is of a fine brown colour. You may occasionally dip them into eggs and then powder them over with crumbs. of bread; they by that means fry of a better colour, but it makes the crust thicker. You must pete send them up with fried parsley in the a ane bie ni dish. gis ‘ No. 23.—Boudins of Rabbits a la Lucullus. Maxe boudins of rabbits with quenelles of the same length as the dish ; poach them in milk and butter, and a little salt. When done enough, drain them on a clean towel. Cut one side flat, that they may dish well; have a little velouté reduced, and pretty thick, which whiten with a little thick cream. Mask the boudins with this. sauce, but do not use more than is requisite for masking: in the mid- dle. you are to serve a ragowié 4 Allemande, which is the same thing as a Toulouse. You must have six fillets larded equally. ‘Take a very large carrot, cover it with thin layers of bacon, and lay the fillets over the carrot with a little salt: let them stand a moment in the oven till they are firm: then glaze and dry them with the salamander: glaze them asecond time: then lay a fillet at each end of the boudi, and one in the middle. Mind that you keep this entrée well covered, for otherwise it would not be of. a fine co- lour; the velowié would dry up, and consequently it would . not preserve its white colour. No, 24.—Fillets of Rabbits a la Maréchale. Taxx the fillets of four young rabbits; divide each of them into two pieces, in order that they may not be too long: flatten them with the back of your knife, that they maybe sooner done ; let them be of an equal size; season them with salt and pepper; then brush, them over with the. yolks of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread, next into clarified butter, and then again into crumbs of. bread, but so as to lay very evenly. Press the fillets between both your hands, in order to melt the butter, and that the crumbs may stick equally all round. Broil them on. a brisk fire, always observing that the thinner and the more tender the jects, the more brisk must the fire be; for if it were not es the fillets would get over done, without being ¢ of a nice brown. Glaze and dish them en miroton, mask them with a brown Italienne mixed with a small quantity of glaze of ‘game. | | No. 25.—Fillets of Rabbits a la Pompadour. | _ Takz the fillets of four young rabbits ; cut each fillet into two, lengthways, and keep them as long as possible. Make a sauce d’attelets (See Sauce d’ Attelets), put the fillets into the seasoning after having dusted them over with salt and pepper. Let this preparation cool, without however getting quite cold, yet sufficiently so as to enable you to lay some round the fillets. Next dip the fillets once into crumbs of bread: then break three eggs into an earthen pan with a little salt, beat them, throw in the fillets, dip them again ‘lightly a second time into crumbs of bread, and fry them of anice colour. Dish them in the shape of a pile, which could not be done if they were not kept crisp. Send up with the sauce 2 la Pompadour in the middle. No. 26.—Altlereaux of Rabbits a 0 Itahenne. Take the fillets of four young rabbits; eut them into pieces of an inch square; then have some mushrooms, parsley, and shalots, chopped fine; put them to fry gently in a small bit of - __ butter over a slow fire till they are done, then put the bits of rabbits to fry gently in those herbs; and when nearly done, P2 192* drain them, and season them with a little salt and peppery take the sweet herbs with which they have been stewed, and make a sauce d’attelets in the following manner: put a spoonful of flour to the herbs, and mix it well with a wooden spoon; moisten with a few spoonfuls of good consommeé ; let the whole boil till the flour is quite done; skim off the butter; reduce the sauce thick, and then thicken it with the . yolks of two eggs; throw into this the square pieces you. have prepared; then let them get quite cold ; next take some silver skewers, have a few pieces of calf’s udder ready done, of half the breadth of the pieces of rabbits, but not so thick; run a skewer first through one of the pieces of rabbit, dipped into the sauce, and next through a piece of the udder, and so on; observing however, to liave a piece of rabbit at each end. Do not stuff the attelet too full, for some of it must project at each end. Put plenty of the sauce, and give a square shape to the above preparation; then dip it into erumbs of bread; next, when of a good shape, into an omelette well seasoned : and into crumbs of bread a second time; then fry it till of a fine colour, and send up with a brown Ita- lienne mixed with a little glaze of rabbit, or the white sharp sauce. There are many entrées of rabbits, which I omit men= tioning in this present edition; such as the bressole, pains of rabbits, profitrolles, &c. &c. which are now quite out of fashion, for fashion prevails in our art as in all others. A veteran cook may still make good dishes, but they will not catch the eye, as the phrase goes. In the common way many entrécs may be made with the legs of rabbits, but as many dishes of game are not to be sent up at a time, pro- vided you have fillets, it is better to use the legs for Saree, or petty patties, or ‘eroqueties, &e, &e. & 4 193 No. 27.—Rabbits and Onions. ‘As this dish is of the English school, it will not require many observations; but I shall recommend that old rabbits be never used, as they always spoil both the taste and the look. ‘ “Wake one or two rabbits, skin them and skewer them as for boiling; put them into warm water. in order to extract all the blood: when they are very white, boil them in boil- ing water and a little salt, to prevent them from skimming. An hour is sufficient to boil them if they are young; the sauce as follows: peel a dozen of white onions, cut the tops and the tails off, then cut them into six pieces, put them to boil in boiling water and a little salt; when nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them into a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then chop them very fine on the table; put them into a stew-pan, with half a quarter of a pound of butter, let them fry to drain the water away: then put half a spoonful of flour, mix well together, and moisten with cream or milk, according to your means; cream is preferable; next let this sauce reduce on a sharp fire, put some salt and pep- per to it, and make it rather thick. Drain the rabbits and cover them with this sauce. No. 28.—Rabbit Soup. ‘Tais soup is made almost in the same way as the soup la Reine. Take the fillets of four rabbits to make an entrée, and with the legs and shoulders make the soup as follows : put them into warm water to take out the blood; when quite” clean, put them into a stew-pan with a Aandi of parsley and a ladleful of good broth; put all this to simmer over a slow fire; when done through, moisten with some good broth. Season it of a good taste, and let it boil for an hour only: if you Jet it boil too long, the soup will be brown: ay 194 next take the meat out of the broth, drain it, and let it cool, then pick all the meat from the bones, and put it into the mortar, with four yolks of eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in a little broth ; pound all this. very fine ; rub it through a tammy, moisten with the broth, and — when done, add to it a pint of double cream that has boiled ; mix all together, and serve up; take particular nobices | that this soup. must be very white ; sometimes you give it wl vermicelli, sometimes with pearl barley, sometimes with rice; on all occasions, each of these articles 1 must be done separately in broth, and put into the soup afterwards. If you should be with a nobleman who has an abundance of . rabbits, you may use also the fillets, as. : the coun, will then be whiter and better. 195 eae pes (CHAP: «XI, HARES AND LEVERETS. It is proper to observe, that hares are fit to be sent up to a nobleman’s table, only when they still shew their age. In order to judge of their age, feel the first joint of the fore claw: if you find a small nut the animal is still young: should this nut have disappeared, turn the claw sideways, and if the Joint crack, that is a sign of its being still tender ; if not, it is only fit to be made en daube, or en cwet: but if very tough, a daube is preferable ; 3 yet it is 1 very insignifi- cant dish, particularly as it requires high seasoning; it is too nourishing to be sent up to dia table of any nobleman, or of a real epicure. No, 1.—Hare en Daube, Arrer having skinned, emptied, and washed off the blood of a hare, cut it through the middle. Have ready layers of bacon well seasoned with chopped parsley, spices, salt and pepper. Lard the hare as thick as you can; put slices of bacon into the bottom of a stew-pan, cover them with the bits of hare, tie up a large bundle of parsley, sea- ‘soned with thyme, bay-leaves, sweet bazil, a clove an common spices, a few carrots, four large white onions, two calf’s feet, and a few pieces of breast of bacon; season the whole with salt, pepper, &c. and a few roots of parsley. Moisten with a couple of spoonfuls of broth, and a pint of white wine; cover the whole with around of buttered paper, 196 to prevent the hare from getting dry; close it hermetically, and let it stew for three hours as gently as possible: then. take it off the fire; drain the hare; skim the liquor, strain” it through a silk sieve, and let it cool, that it may be eaten cold, though it may be served hot, with a garnish all round. In this latter case make a roux with a little flour and butter; when of a very light colour, moisten it with the liquor in which the hare has been stewed, and let it boil enough for the flour to be done, and then send it up, plain as itis. N. B.—If you wish the jelly to look bright, break a couple of eggs into it, before it is hot; beat it over the fire till it . begins boiling, then lay it aside with a cover and a little fire over it; when limpid, drain it through a cloth, and let ‘it cool, to be used occasionally. No. 2.—Civet of Hare, served as Soup. Skin and empty the hare, but take care not to waste the blood. Cut off the two legs, and divide them into two or three pieces; cut the body into equal pieces; be particular in preserving the blood, to be used as follows. Take half a pound of the breast of bacon, cut it into. small square pieces about an inch thick, blanch them in water, and put them into the stew-pan, with a small lump of butter; let them fry till they are of a fine brown; take out the bacon, and put the pieces of hare into the stew-pan; stew them in the butter till firm; then take them out and make a roux, with a little ? flour, which must not be kept too long on the fire. Moisten with about a quart of broth and a pint of red wine; put in the 3 pieces of hare, the bacon, a bunch of parsley, &c. seasoned with pepper, salt, spices, and a few white onions, to give a relish, together with some trimmings of mushrooms. Let the whole boil for an hour, and try whether the pieces of hare are done. Skim the fat off the sauce; then put the mem- hers into a clean stew-pan, one after another, as also the — - “197 - bacon; then skim the sauce well, reduce it toa good sub- _ stance, that it may stick round the hare; and put the sauce over the members through a tammy. You must have ready some white onions fried in butter till they are of a light brown; then stew them ina little consommé. Have like- wise some mushrooms stewed in butter, and put them with the onions to take off the butter.. Now the blood and liver, ° that have been kept apart, are to be poured into the sauce as thickening. You must not let the sauce boil, or else the blood would i in some measure curdle, and the sauce would not be of the same dark brown colour. Civet must appear as black as possible: then put in the onions and mushrooms, — and send up highly seasoned. ‘The consommé in which you — have boiled the onions and the mushrooms, must be reduced, and put with the sauce, sia 3.—F illets of Hare, with the Blood. WueEn a hare has been skinned, thrust your knife all along the spine, always taking care to lean towards the bone. Detach with your fingers, the fillet from the neck down to the legs; leave the thick fleshy part to the leg; then intro- duce your knife, the sharp side towards the tender part of the fillet and your thumb towards the skin; press with your thumb on the sharp side of the blade of the knife, in order that it may not cut the part which contains the sinews; then pull towards you the fillet, and the sinew will remain at- tached to the leg. This operation being performed, scollop the fillets, that is to say, lay the fillets on the table, and - flatten them with the hack of your knife, then slope your knife, and cut off slices nearly flat; mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter, and dust a little salt and pepper over them. At dinner time sautez the scollops, drain the butter, and put the fillets into a sauce de civet, which you have made with the remnants, as it will require. at least a 198 couple of hares to make scollops... Mind you preserve the blood of both, in order that the sauce may be black, or of -adark brown, ‘The members may serve for soup. When you wish to make soup, take the parts from which you have — cut the filets, and make a civet; the sauce is tobe made by the same process. (See Civet above). * No. 4.—Fillets of Hare en Chevreuil. Take the fillets of three hares, according to the size of your dish, detach the fillets, and lard them with bacon cut very equally, then put them into a deep vessel, with salt and pepper, a little parsley, two onions cut into slices, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, a glass of vinegar, and half a glass of water. Let all this be marinaded for a couple of days, and then drain the fillets, and mark them in a sauté pan with a little butter: bake them underdone, and glaze them with a light glaze, as they are always dark enough. Send them up with a poivrade under. | No. 5.—Pain of Hares, boudins of Hares, roasted Hares. - | suatt merely observe that boudins, quenelles, minces, &c. can be made of hares, although in England it is more customary to serve them roasted. They are, however, very good when dressed as entrées. Hares for roasting ought always to be tender. After being skinned, make a stuffing in the following manner: take a good handful of crumbs of bread, with the same quantity of beef-suet well chopped, a little chopped parsley, a little thyme, salt, pepper, two eggs, a little butter, a little milk, and ashalot; mix up these well into an oval shape, with which stuff the belly of the hare, and sew it up. Stick the fore legs under the belly, and double the hind legs under the belly also, then skewer them well; the head stands erect as if the hare was running; skin the ears. If it is an old hare it will be good for nothing; if ee _~young, three-quarters of an hour will do it. Serve it up with | gravy, and some currant-jelly in a sauce-boat; mind that _ you stop the spit with the belly towards the fire, or else the | stuffing will not be done. Some persons like a powwrade under it. hop brown Sharp Sauce). No. 6. —Hare Soup. Take two hares, young ones are the best; skin them, | and wash the inside well; separate the limbs, legs, shoul- ‘ders, &c. and put them into a stew-pan with two or three glasses of port wine, two onions stuck with four cloves, a bundle of parsley, a bay-leaf, a couple of sprigs of thyme, ditto of sweet basil, marjoram, and a few blades of mace: put the whole over a slow fire on the stove. When it has simmered for an hour, moisten with some very good boiling broth, till the meat is entirely covered with it; then Ict the whole simmer gently till the meat is quite done. Strain the | meat, put the broth through a hair sieve: put the crumb of a two-penny loaf to soak in the broth. Take all the flesh of the hare from the bones, and pound it in a mortar till fine enough to be rubbed through a sieve, moisten with the broth, and season according to your palate. You must not make the soup too thick: and be particularly careful, when you have occasion to warm it up again, not ‘to let jt boil, as boiling spoils it. No. 7.—Another way of making Hare Soup. ‘On another occasion, you may select some of the “i pieces, as the rump, shoulders, &c, as soon as they are done enough, take out what you intend to put whole into the soup, and put it into a stew-pan with some of the liquor, to prevent it from drying and getting black. When your soup is quite ready, and you are going to serve up, put the reserved members into the tureen, and pour the soup over. 200 Entrées of red-legged Partrid oes, or Bartavelles. Tus sort of partridge is very scarce in 1 England; yet when met with, cook them i in the same manner as the other ; partridges, eS eed Quails and Cailleteaux. Tue cailleteaux are young quails, but owing to their enor- mous price in England, they are very seldom, if ever, to be procured at the poulterers. An entrée of fillets of young : quails, besides its costing too dear, is never attempted; the . expence would be extravagant, without any other merit. No. 1.—Compotte of Quails. TAKE six or eight quails, according to the size of your dish. Cut the claws off, empty the birds, without making too large an opening. Truss them en poule, that is to sayy with the legs inward. Have a dozen pieces of bacon cut into the shape of corks, blanch them in order to draw the salt out: then let them fry in butter till they are of a light brown; next take them out of the stew-pan to make room for the quails, which stew till they begin to be of a light brown also, and then take them out. Make a roux, which moisten with a ladleful of gravy of veal; add a bunch of parsley and green onions, some small white onions, (if ap- proved of), mushrooms, &c. As soon as the quails are done, take them out of the stew-pan, and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim the sauce well, and strain it through — a tammy over the quails: then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and small onions, and send up quite hot, and well seasoned, eS eee Oe 901 No. 2 ae Committe of Quail white. f Tus is made i in the same manner as the compoite ss par- | tridges, No, 8, page 191, with the only difference, that you use broth instead of gravy of veal; thicken the sauce with _ yolk of eggs, and serve the onions white, ape same as the mushrooms. No. 3.—Quails with Pease, Empty, singe, and truss six nice quails ; put them into _astew-pan wrapt up in layers of bacon: moisten with a poéle if you have any, if not, with two spoonfuls of broth, a bunch of parsley, seasoned with bay-leaves, thyme, a clove, &c. Stew them for twenty minutes over a very slow fire. Drain them well, and let them boil for a moment with | the pease and bacon. (See Sauces, Green Pease, brown, or white). Next dish them, and reduce the liquor, which, _ the quails having been boiled in it, would be too thin to _ mask with. No. 4.—Quails au gratin. Bonz six quails, pick them nicely: take a little farce fine, , _ made in preference with the flesh of young rabbits : fill the ren - bodies of the quails with the said farce: then raise a kind : of dome on a dish, and with a spoon maké room for the _ birds: next make an opening in the middle; let it be either _ round or square, according to the shape of the dish. Put a piece of soft bread covered with layers of bacon within the opening ; cover the birds with layers of bacon, and put the dish into the oven for about a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes at most, till the birds are done.. Drain the © fat carefully. Then take six slices of bread cut into the ae _-may be used, either for first or second courses. — N Be: 1.—Omelette Moélleuse. Break eight eggs into an earthen pan with a little pepper and salt, and a sufficient quantity of water to melt the salt. ' Beat the eggs well: then throw an- ounce and ahalf of fresh butter into a frying-pan, and melt it ever a brisk fire: pour the eggs into the pan, which is not to be kept too close to the fire. Keep turning conti- nually, but never let the middle part of it be over. the fire, for it is always rather too hot. Gather all the border. together, and roll the omelette before it gets too much done. The middle part must always be kept mellow. Roll it equally with your knife before you dish it, and take care not to let the pan Baik the dish, in turning out the omelette into it. : No. 2.—L’Omeletie aux fines Herbes. THE same preparation as above, with the addition only of a little parsley chopt very fine. Some people mix a few chopt shalots likewise, which may be done if approved of. te a =e I a ee = ne ee oe = No. 3.--Sniall Omeléttes with Ham. Mark these omelettes as above. If you have some ham which has served as a remove, mince about a quarter of a pound of it, which you throw into a little very thick Espag- -nole. Then make small omelettes of about two eggs each. Before you roll them, put in a spoonful of the minced ham. You may make four or six, according to the size of the dish. Take care not to put too much salt; and if the ham is briny, do not put any salt at all. You may put four or five omie- lettes to one dish. (This is a second course dish). No. 4.—Small Omelettes with Sorrel. Make small omelettes as above. Have some sorrel ready stewed, which you put on each of the omelettes before you roll them, the same as above with ham. Give them a pleas- ing shape and colour. The same number as above. No. 5.—Omelette with Kidney of Veal. ‘re you have remaining the kidney of a roasted loin of veal, chop it, and put it into an omelette prepared as in No. 1. -Make it mellow, and season it properly with salt. No. 6.—Small Omelettes with Sweetmeats. Make small omeleties as above. Let them be done pro- perly. Putin the sweetmeats. before you roll the omelettes, and lay them on the cover of a stew-pan. . When they are all made, sprinkle over them a little finely pounded sugar, and then use the salamander to glaze them of a fine colour. All omelettes are always second course dishes, called eniremets, 4 , -) No. 7.—Fried Eggs.» »» Break some fresh eggs into a dish, without damaging the yolks, and powder them over with a little pepper and salt. Then fry some butter; a quarter of a pound will do for a dozen of eggs, When the butter is completely fried, pautls, over the eggs, and then put the eggs into the fry- ing-pan, which keep at a little distance from the fire, for fear the eggs should stick. When they are done at the bottom, use the salamander for the top, till they turn white. Then dish without breaking them, and pour over them a little vinegar. No. 8. —Eggs « au Miroir. ButrEer the dish in rich you are to send up the eggs, break eight of them, but mind -that they are fresh, sea- ~ soned with pepper and salt: then cut small pieces of batter over the eggs, and use the salamander, and a small fire under, till they sare quite white. They must not be too much done. No. 9.—Poached Eggs. Boit some water with a little vinegar. Take some fresh eggs, and break the point of the shell with. your knife, that the egg may drop into the water without breaking. Turn with the shell to gather all the white round the yolk. Never poach more than four at a time. As soon as they are done, take ‘them out, one at a time, and throw them into cold water. When you have poached the number you want, pare them weli. Then with your finger rub them gently over in the water, that they may be very neat and white. They must be very soft. These serve for a great number of entrées and entremeis. They may be served with sorrel, spinach, gravy of veal, &c. &e. 4 278 No. 10,—Fried Poached Eggs. Yéu must have a sauté pan ‘made on purpose for this dish, with little round holes in it, to fry thé eggs in boiling oil. They fry better and are drier, when you use oil in=®™” stead of butter. | Fry them soft, but of a very brown colour, and before you send them up, powder a little salt over them and glaze them. No. ll.—Eggs 4 la Tripe. ) Make a little roux with flour and butter; fry afew chopt onions in the same stew-pan before the roux is made brown. Moisten with some good boiling milk, pepper and salt. Let the flour and onions be well done, and keep the sauce rather thick. Next have ten eggs’boiled hard, cut them in quarters or in round slices, and put them into the sauce. Stir gently, that the yolk may not separate from the white, and serve up. | No. 12.—Eggs a la Maitre d’ Hotel. Make a little white roux as above. Moisten with some good boiling milk, pepper and salt: let these stew for half an hour. Throw a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into the sauce, with a little parsley chopt very finé. Cut the — eggs into the sauce, and send up to table quite hot. Add the juice of a lemon. — No. 13.—Eggs a I’ Aurore. Cur a dozen of hard eggs in two; take the yolks from ‘hem, which strain through a hair sieve, then make a sauce as follows: mark, in a stew-pan, a quarter of a pound of butter, half a spoonful of flour, with pepper and salt, a 279 little nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Then stew this sauce till thick, but do not let it boil, Chop half the whites of the eggs, and throw it into the sauce. Next dish the - whites, pour the yolks over them equally, baste theth with a little butter,” and use the salamander, Then serve up. No. 14 —Eges en surprise. Cour: a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) in rie Take all the yolks and pound them in a mortar, with a - -quartern, or if you chuse with half a pound of butter, with which mix a little cream, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. - When you have pounded about half an hour, add two raw eggs to thicken the farce. Then pare out the inside of the whites, and fill one half of them again with the farce. Next mix some chopped parsley with part of the farce, and fill the other half of the eggs. Erect alittle dome in the cen- tre of the dish with some of the farce, and trim it all round with the stuffed eggs; contrive to give them a pleasing appearance. Next put them into an oven for ten minutes, and send them up quite hot. In paring the inside of the whites, you must leave only just enough to keep i in the farce. No. 15.—Croqueites of Eggs. Cur the white of a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) into small dice. Strain the.yolks of six eggs through a hair sieve. Cut a couple of onions into dice, sweat them white in a quarter of a pound of butter, then put a spoon- ful of flour to fry; moisten with boiling milk, and season with salt and pepper. Next throw both the whites and yolks into the sauce. Let them cool, and cover them with crumbs of bread, as you do all other croquettes. If you were to put in all the yolks, the croquettes would get too dry; 3 —S eM eee ee 280 the remaining yolks may be used for salads, &c. Mind to seasoti fa good tastes.) 8 Om ia age ee ae gt No. 16.—Andouilles of Eggs. - Cur the whites of eggs boiled hard into fillets as long as you can make them: cut a few truffles, onions, and mush- rooms the same, sweat the whole except the eggs, in a little butter.. When done put the ingredients in a hair sieve to drain the butter. Next make a sauce a la créme, which must. be rather thick, mix the liquor in which the truffles, &c. have been sweated, with the sauce, and set them boiling. When it is thick enough, put the fillets of eggs into it, and let it cool over ice. Make two boudins, which you dip into an ome- lette, as you do the boudins 2 la Reine. Fry them, and send them upwith fried parsley between the boudins. These makea very good eniérée when you are short of dishes in the country. All the preceding dishes, from No. 7 to this last, are entrées, No. 17.—Eggs a la Neige. Bear some whites of eggs, which boil in milk, with a little salt. Cut them all of a size with a spoon, and drain them. Then boil a pint of cream. When it boils, throw in the thin outside peel of half a lemon, a little sugar, and a very small quantity of salt; let the lemon steep. Then beat the yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it thicken on the fire. When the cream is thick enough, strain it through a tammy, and mask the eggs 2 la neige with this sauce. Another time, instead of lemon, use leaves of rose, or almond laurel: although in England it is considered poisonous, a small quantity is never injurious. No. 18.—Les Cocoties. Pur alittle fresh butter at the bottom of small China cups, called cocottes. Break a fine new laid egg over the a 281. butter, with a little salt and some coarse pepper. Lay these over some red hot ashes, and then use the salamander till the eggs are done soft. No. 19.—Eges brouillés. THERE are various sorts of eggs brouillés, namely :—with champignons, with cardes, with traffles, with cucumbers, with verjuice, with broth, and with asparagus heads, which are made as follows: | ‘a ~ Break eight eggs into a clean stew-pan with half a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat the eggs till the whites and yolks are well blended. Then put the stew-pan on a slow fire, and keep constantly stirring with a wooden spoon; mind that the eggs brouzllés are never to be grumous, or clotty.. A spoonful of broth or ‘sauce, makes them more delicate. — 982 os oe F i aie caer Seg é if yoiltag os 1 i% NF hy ey er eos evden The eeiiery ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. General Remark on Vegetables. THE various sorts of vegetables are very numerous, and for all that, the cook is often left with a scarcity of dishes for the second course, as most of the better sort make their appearance all at the same time of the year. Winter is a season of peculiar difficulty for entremets of vegetables, as the nobility of this country do not use any of the dry floured vegetables; you are therefore left with only cardons, spinach, salsifis, brocolis, and potatoes; and in this short list of vegetables little variety is left for the table, except in the different ways of dressing. No. 1.—Cardons a ’ Espagunole. Tus dish, which I introduce foremost amongst all the entremets of vegetables, requires great attention, and no , small share of skill in the art of cookery. It is not much relished in England, but in France it was held in the highest estimation. By the bye, it was always one of those se- lected for the trial of a cook. | In the first place, you must select a few heads of cardons all very white. Cut each leaf into slices of six inches long ; with the exception however of those that are hollow, which are tough and thready. Beard them of their prickles, and blanch them, by putting the thickest leaves into boiling water. When you have given these a few boils, put in the leaves of the heart ; turn the middle stalks into large olives, and blanch them likewise. Then try a piece in cold water, 283 to see whether the slime which is on the surface will come off by rubbing. If so, take them off the fire immediately, and throw them into cold water, as they are done enough ; or you may cool the boiling water, by pouring cold into it till you are able to bear your hand in it, to rub off all the slime. This being done, throw the cardons into a blanc, give them a single boil, and leave them in the blanc. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a sufficient quan- tity. Pare both extremities, and mark them in a stew- pan, with four spoonfuls of Espagnole and four spoonfuls of consommé,.a little salt, and a little sugar, Let them boil over a sharp fire, that they may not be done too much; be sure to skim off all the fat. Dish them nicely. Strain the sauce through a tammy before you mask them. Send them up to table quite hot with a cover over them, to pre- vent their getting dry. | No. 2.—Cardons & V Essence with Marrow. THE same operation as above. Take a few pieces of beef marrow, all of a size, which you put to disgorge in warm water, to draw out all the blood. _When thoroughly dis- gorged, blanch and stew it in a little water with a little salt, and a few slices of lemon to keep it white. When done, put it into the essence, which is nothing but some Espagnole reduced ; unless you have some essence, or Espagnole, as mentioned among the sauces. Drain the fat, and do not forget to put a little sugar; which is requisite in all dishes of cardons, as it makes them much better. ! No. 3.—Cardons au Velouté. THE same preparation as in the two preceding articles. Take some out of the blanc, trim and stew them in a little consommé, and when they are done, drain and sauce them with some velouté, | : 284 — No, 4.—Cardons 2 la Sauce blanche. sala ‘THE same preparation as s above, Salt sauce mi the sauce blanche, or French melted butter, ee SPINACH. No. 1.—Spinach au Consommeé. : You must take particular care. when the spinach is picked, that no stalks nor weed are left amongst it. The least oversight may cause the spinach to be good for nothing, notwithstanding all the trouble you might take in cooking it. It must be washed several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float with ease. Put a great deal of salt, that it may preserve its green colour, and press it down frequently, that it may be done equally. When it has had a few boils, try whether it can be squeezed easily, then without loss of time put it into a cullender to drain the water. Next throw it into a great quantity of cold water to keep it green. When it is quite cold, make it into balls and squeeze it well. Then spread it on the table with your knife, to ascertain that no improper substance is left among it. Chop it very fine; put a good piece of butter into a stew-pan, and lay the spinach over the butter. Let it dry over a gentle fire, and next dredge it with a handful of flour. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of consommé, and let it stew briskly, that it may not turn yellow. Make it rich with a small piece of glaze. If you intend to send it up as’ an entrée with a ham, or a tongue, &c. you must mix afew — spoonfuls of Espagnole, and let it be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg ; in that case, you may grate little into it, 285 Spinach thus prepared may be used with a fricandeau, sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of veal or of mutton. ‘No. 2.—Spinach with Cream. Buancu and prepare it as above, only use cream instead of broth. Boil the cream before you throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the cream only is lost, whereas other- wise you would lose the spinach, butter and all. Spinach with cream requires a little sugar and nutmeg. It is need- less to repeat, that a little salt is also requisite, as there can be no good seasoning without it. You must always have fried toasts of bread round the spinach when you send it up to table, or some made of puff paste flourets; but mind that they must both be fresh ae 2 No. 3 eae French fashion, Tuts dish in Paris is called 2 carambee The spinach is to be blanched. as above. Squeeze it well, and pound it in a mortar. Then mark it in astew-pan with a little butter, Leave it for three quarters of an hour on a very slow fire till very dry. Next throw in a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, with salt, and grated nutmeg. Work the spinach well, till it is thick; but take care the butter does not turn to coil. i No. 4.—Croustades of Spinach, Tuis dish is introdueed merely for the sake of variety. _ Cut some bread, into hearts, which you slit all round. Fry them in butter, Arrange those hearts in the form of a rosette Soe: Next cut a round of bread, which slit in the ~ same manner, and place it in the middle, over the points of the hearts. Fry these till they are of a fine brown, then x 286 ; cut out the interior, take out all the crumb, and fill the | vacuity with spinach, either with cream or-consommé. Ob* serve, that when spinach is dressed to put under meat, whether fricandeau or sweetbread, &c. it must be more ‘ seasoned than when dressed for entremets, eat a little more liquid, as itis like sauce. EE a ENDIVE. No, 1.—Endive with Gravy of Veal. Wasu and clean twelve heads of endive, and beware of the worms, which generally are found in the heart. After having taken off all the green part of the leaves, wash the endive again in two or three different waters, and blanch them to take off the bitter taste. Then throw them into cold water, and when quite cold, squeeze them till there is no water left in them, then chop them very fine. Next stew them ina _ sufficient quantity of gravy to cover them entirely, to which add a little salt, anda very small lump of. sugar to qualify the bitter tart taste of the endive. Ascertain if they are done enough, by squeezing a bit between two fingers; if | very tender, they are done. Then add two spoonfuls of Espagnole reduced, and use them either for entremets under poached eggs, or for entrées, such as minces of mut- — ton, muzeiies of mutton, carbonades, fricandeaux, sweet- breads, fillets of fowl, &c, &c. No. 2.—Endive au Veloute, THE same preparation as above, but instead of gravy, use consommé, and in lieu of Espagnole, take velouté. Endive must always be stéwed in broth, or gravy, or consommé. The sauce must not boil when ‘you pour it over the endive, especially if it is cream sauce. If you wish the sauce’ to be white, add some’ thick cream to it, 287 No. 3.—Endive & la Frangaise. Te same preparation again as in No. 1. When the endive is done in the broth as above, reduce it quite dry; put in a quarter cf a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Mix all together, and serve. up very hot, | —— CAULIFLOWER. CauLrFLowERs are never good but when white and hard, and are never used in French cookery when they begin te run to seed. No. 1.—Cauliflowers 2 la Sauce blanche. AFTER having torn off all the green leaves, it is requisite you should open the cauliflower, to remove the snails or other insects, which are liable to creep towards the heart. | For this purpose leave the cauliflower in cold water for an hour. Next throw it into boiling water, with a little salt and butter. ‘This vegetable being very tender is soon done. If you wish to boil it beforehand, take it off the fire when only half done, as its being left in boiling water will soon~ finish it. Drain them separately, without breaking them, dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower, and pour the sauce over them. (See Sauce blanche). 2g No. 2.—Cauliflower au Velouté. Tue same preparation as above, with the only difference, that you use velouté instead of sauce blanche. x2 288 ae No. 3.—Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese. Prepare and dish the cauliflower as above. Next mask the pieces with a little thick béchamelle, powder some rasped Parmesan cheese over them, and melt a little fresh butter; which pour gently in different places. Then strew them over with crumbs of bread and rasped cheese again, to which you give a fine colour with the salamander. Wipe the border of the dish, mix a little Parmesan cheese with some velouté and a little fresh butter, work the sauce, sea- son it well, and pour it gently all round the cauliflower. If you should happen to have neither béchamelle nor any other sauce ready, a little melted butter with some glaze in it, will answer the same purpose; but it is more liable to turn to oil. No. 4.— Cauliflower al Espagnole. + THE same preparation again as in No.1]. When the cauliflowers are done, drain them, and put them to simmer a little in a stew-pan with a few spoonfuls of Espagnole. If you serve them ina silver stew-pan, it is requisite that the cauliflower should be boiled in the same, as they would break, if you attempted to shift them into another vessel. N. B.—Cauliflowers intended for entrées are to be pre- pared as in No. I, and they always look whiter if boiled beforehand. em ee Earn » SALSIFIS. Tuis root when black we call salsifis, if white it goes by the appellation of scorsonary. This latter is by no means so tender or palatable as the former, however both are pre- pared and dressed in the same manner. Scrape them gently, so as to strip them only of the outside peel. Then cut 289 : o. them into pieces of an equal size, and throw them into water Se alittle vinegar, or lemon-juice, to prevent their getting lack. When you have scraped a sufficient quantity, boil them in water enough for them to swim with ease, put a little salt and a small bit of butter. They will generally be done in three quarters of an hour; yet it is better to ascer- tain the fact by taking a piece out of the water, and trying with your knife whether they are done enough, which is the case when the knife penetrates easily. Drain the salsifis, and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. It is generally served with velouté, or sauce blanche, or French melted butter. No. 1.—Salsifis au Velouté. _ THE same preparation as above. Only observe that such sauces as are sent up with vegetables, must always be re- fined, and thickened with fresh butter; never forget salt | and a little Cayenne. No. 2.—Salsifis a l Espagnole. THE same preparation as in No. ]. Only use Espagnole instead of sauce blanche. No, 3.—Fried Salsifis. we: si: Make a batter as follows: take six spoonfuls of flour, — a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and beat the _ whole with beer, enough to make it into batter, but do not make it too liquid. Then beat the whites of two eggs, and when well beaten pour them into the batter, which you keep stirring gently. Next put the vegetables that are done beforehand and well drained in acloth, into the batter; take them out again one by one, and throw them into the drip- 665 ping. Use a skewer, to prevent théir sticking’ together. When fried of a fine colour and crisp, send them up with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little hpoaee salt sprinkled over the vegetables, Ta No. 4 —Salsifis én Salade or Aspic. Take salsifis enough to fill a mould of the size of the fue then boil them in the same way as the others; drain and cut them of the length of the mould; dress them like a Chartreuse, dip them into alittle aspic, to stick them together all round the mould, and fill the middle with a salad of small bits of salsifis all of the same size; then season with salt, pepper, a little oil and vinegar, and alittle aspics put also some parsley chopped very fine; toss the whole, and put it in the mould into ice. At dinner, dip a rubber into hot water, | rub the mould all round with it, and turn the salad out on the dish to serve up. ’ , aR 0 aco NE ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES are fit to eat only when young and tender. Such as are intended for l’estouffade, or la barigoule, or plain boiled, must be full grown; the sprouts are used when to be fried la Provengale, 2 VTtalenne, &c. You ascertain that they are good, by the stalks breaking without being thready. No. l.— Artichokes au Naturel. Accorping to the size of your dish, boil a certain quan- tity of artichokes in salt and water only, after having washed them in séveral waters; remove all the insects that swarm about the leaves, and trim them of all the bad leaves ; ascertain whether, they are done enough, either with ' 29) the point of a knife, or by tearing off one of the leaves. If the knife penetrates, or the leaf comes off with facility, then you may be certain that the artichoke is done. Shift it in- ‘stantly into cold water, that you may take out all the inside ; first take off the top all of a lump, then empty the choke, set the top on again, and send up as hot as possible, with a sauce blanche, or French melted butter in a sauce-boat. | No. 2.—Artichokes a l Estouffade. _ Twese are prepared as in No. 1, but. boil them only till you are enabled to empty them of all the choke. When emptied drain them well. Then have some olive oil boiling, in which fry the surface of the leaves. When they are of a fine brown colour, wipe off.all the oil, and mark the artichokes in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of fat bacon, and a few slices of ham; powder each artichoke with a little salt, and add to them a few carrots, onions, and a clove. Next cover them with thin layers of lean bacon. One single spoonful of broth will be sufficient to moisten the whole. There must be but a very small fire under- neath, and a very brisk one on the top. The artichokes will be done in three-quarters of an hour’s time if they are young and tender; but as not unfrequently there are old ones among the number, it is better to ascertain with the point of a knife whether they are. really done enough. Next drain all the grease, dish them, and send up with an Espagnole and the juice of a lemon in the inside of each of them. No. 3.—Artichokes a la Barigoule, Are prepared in every respect like those of No.2. Only | have some sweet herbs, such as mushrooms, shalots, and parsley chopped very fine, which you fry white in a little oe 292 butter. When they are done, without being made too dry, season with pepper, salt, and the juice of alemon. Then divide those herbs, and put them inside the artichokes, which you stew as above. When done, drain them fromthe fat upon a clean towel, and send up with a brown Italienne in the inside. No. 4.—Artichokes a la Provengale. Cuusr some artichokes that are very tender, cut them into four equal quarters, pare them nicely, and rub them over with some lemon, that they may preserve their white colour. ‘Throw them into cold water, the quantity to be in proportion to the size of the dish in which you are to serve the entremets. Trim a stew-pan with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, then put the artichokes all round, and set the whole to stew over some red-hot ashes, or to bake in a moderately hot oven. When done, drain the. artichokes, and serve them up with French melted butter in them, to which you add a little glaze, and the juice of a lemon ; or otherwise some Espagnole worked with a small lump of butter, and the juice of a lemon. No. 5.—Fried Artichokes, Ler the artichokes be tender, and cut into quarters as above. Rub them over with lemon to keep them white. When they have been well washed and drained, so that not a single drop of water remains, throw them into an earthen pan with some pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Next take four spoonfuls of flour, three entire eggs, a tea- spoonful of olive oil, and keep stirring the whole with a wooden spoon, till the leaves are well imbued. Then have some dripping, which must not be too hot, so that the artichokes may be done through of a fine brown colour. Throw the artichokes into the dripping piece after piece, 293 ‘ and use a skewer to prevent their sticking together. When they are done and crisp, lay them on a towel to drain, and send them up with fried ee green parsley. | ? a No, 6.— Artichokes a l Italienne. THESE are also to be cut into quarters, and boiled in water enough to enable them to swim with ease, with a little salt and butter. When done, drain them well, and lay them all round the dish with the leaves outwards. Then take some Jtulienne, with which you mix a small bit of butter, and pour the sauce over the part that is to be eaten, but not over the leaves. No. 7.—Artichoke-bottoms. ARTICHOKE-BoTToms require to be turned very nicely, and the most tender leaves are to be left on, that the in- side of the artichokes may be kept more clean. Blanch them in salt and water. When they are so far done that you may pull off the leaves, and empty the choke without breaking the bottoms, take them out of the water, and throw them into cold water, that you may strip them en- tirely of the leaves, and remove the choke. Then make a. blanc in the following manner: Blanc for Vegetables and Cardons in general, Cur about half a pound of fat bacon into large dice, as | also a little beef suet; take half a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, and the half of alemon cut in thin slices, and put the whole into a sufficient quantity of water to cover whatever you wish to put into your blanc. - Let this blane stew for half an hour before you throw in, the artichoke-bottoms, which are also generally done in the bel — 994 same space of time, yet the most certain method is to use the point of your knife to ascertain if they are done enough. Send them up with whatever sauce you may think proper. ‘They | likewise serve to garnish either fricas- sées of fowls, ragowts, white or brown, &c. they are always to be boiled in this way, in whatever sauce you may serve them. No. 8.—Artichoke-botioms en Canapés, THEsE, when cold, are served for entremets. Pour on the centre of each artichoke-bottom some anchovy butter, or Montpelier butter, and decorate the whole with capers, pickled cucumbers, beet-root, &c. and when ready to serve up, pour over them a salad sauce, garnished with cresses between. ’ FRENCH BEANS. No. 1.—French Beans & la Poulette. Frencn beans must be young and tender. The fruit- erers and green-grocers sell them by the hundred, but they are fil to be eaten only when they are sold at market by the measure. They are to be boiled in salt and water, over a large fire, that they may retain their green colour. ~The poulette is made with a little sauce tournée, which you reduce, and next thicken with the yolks of two eggs, to which you add a little parsley.chopped very fine. When the thickening is done enough, add to it a good lump of fresh butter, which you work weil, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half alemon. Drain the beans well, so that no water remains; dish them, and send up with the sauce over them. 4 295 No. 2.—French Beans a la Lionaise. THEsE are to be prepared as above. Next cut some onions into slices; fry them of a fine brown colour, take two spoonfuls of Espagnole, and work it with a good lump of fresh butter. After having drained the onions and beans, pour them into the sauce, keep stirring, season them well with salt, and a little pepper ; serve up hot over the beans. No. 3.—French Beans 4 la Francaise. AFTER having boiled the beans asin No. 1, drain and lay them on the fire in a stew-pan, to dry all the water, When entirely dry and quite hot, add to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little pounded pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; keep moving the stew-pan, without using a spoon, as that would break the beans. If the butter should not mix well, add half a spoonful of sauce tournée, and send up hot. No. 4.—French Beans a la Provencale. Tess are to be boiled as above. Take two small pieces of garlic, which squeeze on the dresser with a wooden spoon, mixed with a little fresh butter. Let the beans be made quite dry, as in No. 3, and then put in the garlic with a quarter of a pound of butter, and keep stirring the beans till the whole is well combined. Mix some herbs chopped fine with the above, such as parsley and shalots, or green onions, to- which add a little good olive oil. Keep stirring, and if you do it properly the oil will form a pomatum. Lastly, season it well, with the addition of the juice of alemon. Serve up hot and with great expedition, that no oil may drop. eT eae, es Se eS ol een ass ~ 296 _° WHITE BEANS. | Nos l— White Beans a la Mattre d’ Hétel. Wuirts beans, when new and fresh, must be put into boiling water. But if they are dry, they must be soaked for an hour in cold water, before you boil them. Then boil them in cold water, and replenish with cold water also, which makes the rind or coat tender. White beans must be well done before you dress them @ la mattre d’hétel, which is done as follows: trim a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley chopped very fine, and some pepper and salt, over which lay the beans, well drained. Keep moving the stew-pan without using a spoon, for fear of crumbling the beans. Then squeeze the juice of half a lemon, and send up quite hot. No. 2.—While Beans & la Lionaise. Cur a few onions into dice, and fry them in a little butter till they are of a light brown colour; then add to them two spoonfuls of Espagnole. Let the onions be well done; season them with pepper and salt; drain the beans that have been done as above; then throw them into the sauce, and serve up hot. No. 3.—The Purée of White Beans. Tue beans, which must have been boiled beforehand, are to be mixed with the following preparation: chop some onions, and fry them lightly in a little butter, put a little flour to fry in the butter, and when done moisten with a spoonful or two of broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done. Next let the beans boil in that sauce for half an hour, season well, without pepper, however, and strain them threugh a tammy. ~ Reduce the purée over a brisk fire, skim off the white scum, 297 _ and before you serve up, refine the purée with a bit of very ‘fresh butter, and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This _ entremet is to be garnished with fried crusts of bread all round, ‘ No. 4.—The same as above, brown, Is prepared in the same manner as that above, with this difference, that the onions are to be fried brown, and moist- ened with some Espagnole, or gravy of veal; in case you should not have any, as soon as the onion is of a fine brown colour, throw in a spoonful of flour, and moisten with a little gravy of veal; let the four be well done, and set the beans to boil in it for half an hour, that the taste of both may be well mixed; next strain the whole through a tammy, and give it a good seasoning. Remember that brown sauces are always to be more highly seasoned than others. — TUR apc ASPARAGUS. No. 1.— Asparagus with Sauce blanche, dites en Bdtonets. Asparagus are always boiled in salt and water, whether intended for entrées, or entremets. The water in which they are boiled is always impregnated with a nauseous bitter taste; for which reason asparagus is never used in soups or garnish, but at the very last moment before sending up the dinner. They must boil over a large fire, in order to preserve their green colour. ‘hose served en bdtonets are cut accord- ing to the size of the dish. A toast of bread is generally put under the asparagus to raise them on the dish, and to receive the water which may issue from them. Send up separately some melted butter in a boat. 298 _ No. 2.—Asparagus Pease. Ix the asparagus are properly dressed, they must taste — like green pease. Take some young asparagus, which pick with great care; then cut them into small equal pieces, — avoiding to put in.such parts as are hard or tough. Wash — them in several waters, and throw them into boiling water with a little salt. When the asparagus are nearly done, drain them first through a sieve, and next wipe them quite dry with a towel, Then put them into a stew-pan with a small bit of butter, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, and sautez them over the fire for ten‘minutes. Now add a little four, and a small lump of sugar, and moisten with — boiling water. They must boil over a large fire. When well reduced take out the parsley and green onions, and thicken with the yolks of two eggs beaten with a little cream, and alittle salt. Remember that in this entremet sugar must predominate, and that there is to be no sauce. Aspa- ragus are always dressed in this manner, when to be served as entremets; but for entrées, instead of their being sauté over the fire with butter, parsley and green onions, drain them well after they have been boiling in salt and water, and throw them into some good sauce tournée well reduced. Give them a few boils over a large fire, then powder a little sugar, and make a thickening of one egg. The sauce must be made thick, on account of the asparagus always giving out a certain quantity of water that will thin the sauce. 299 _ CUCUMBERS*. i No. 1.—Cucumbers farcis. ‘T’aKE four or six cucumbers, according to the size of your dish; cut them into the shape of a screw, which is done by leaning with your thumb onthe blade of your knife whilst cut- ting the cucumber, at an equal distance. When you havethus turned the outside, empty the inside with a scooper. Take great care not to bruise the cucumbers, which when pre- pared, you throw successively into some water. Now blanch them, and cool them in cold water; drain them; then take a little farce & quenelles, or some godiveau (See Farces), with which fill the cucumbers. Mark them in a stew-pan with layers of bacon, under and above, and a little salt and pepper; moisten with some good consommé, and let them stew, but not too long. Lay them on a towel to drain, and send them up with a fine Espagnole almost reduced to glaze. No. es ada a la Pouletie. Cur some cucumbers in the shape of half-crown pieces, marmade them for half an hour in a little salt and vinegar; next drain them in a towel, and lay them in a stew-pan with half a quarter of a pound of butter. Fry them white over a brisk fire, and then powder them over with a little flour. Next moisten with a little broth, and let them be reduced without breaking. When sufficiently reduced, add a little | chopped parsley, a little sugar, and a thickening of three eggs or more, according to the quantity of the cucumbers, together with a little salt; you may also put alittle pepper * Cucumbers are a very cool plant, but of very great use in cookery; they are useful in first and second courses, and may be Gcressed in a great many different ways; they are of very easy digestion, and must be recom: mended as very healthy food, OS Ae ee 800 if you like it. It would be useless to recommend the neces- sity of seasoning, as itis known to constitute the difference between good and bad cookery. Either salt or sugar must predominate in some respects. Mind to skim off all the butter before you reduce. __ No. 3 3.— Cucumbers cardon fashion. ‘Cur cucumbers lengthways of the size of the dish ; dunce : the seed, and slit the outside, that it may bear the appear- ance of a cardoon; blanch them in boiling water; next stew them in some consommé with two or three spoonfuls of Espagnole, Let them boil over a large fire, and take care the sauce does not become skinny. If the cucumbers should give a bitter taste, put in a little sugar. This dish is a very wholesome one for weak stomachs. . < See et “SE eed SEA-KALE. - Tis plant is not known in France. It is to be boiled in salt and water, and after being well drained, sent up with either a sauce blanche, a velouté, or an Espagnole; it has a great resemblance to asparagus, but is 3 an used for second courses. $< ” BROCOLI. Brocoul are no other than green cauliflowers. They are - dressed in the same manner, and sent up with the same sauce. (See Caulifiowers, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, pages 287, 288). » 301 ‘POTATOES, No. 1.—Potatoes a i Maitre d’ Hotel. WasH the potatoes clean, and boil a with | the skins in salt and water. When they are done let them cool, then turn them in the shape of hig corks, and cut them into slices as thick as twopenny pieces, for if the slices were too thin, they would break in the sauce. (For the Maitre d’ Hotel, see Sauces). If you should have no sauce ready, make a butter sauce, and instead of water, moisten with milk, mix with it a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a little glaze, and the juice of a lemon, if acid is required. Mind that the sauce is neither curdled nor too thick. | No. 2.—Fried Potatoes. THEsE are to be turned when raw, and cut of the same thickness as in No. 1; then fry them in clarified butter. If you should have any goose dripping, it would do better. When the potatoes are fried of a fine brown colour, and crisp, drain all the grease on a towel, and serve them quite hot on a napkin or in a deep dish, for this entremets cannot be dished nicely in any other way. Do not forget to sprinkle them over with a little pounded salt. No, 3.—Purée of Potatoes. - Takk some potatoes well boiled and well drained, pound them in the mortar, moisten with good broth and salt, then rub them through a sieve; when done, put the purée to warm in a stew-pan, and add a quartern of fresh butter - toit; purée must be thinner than mash; put fried bread round it. Sometimes you may use cream instead of broth; but it is not so healthy, and is much dearer, ¥ a 302 No. 4.—Croquettes of Potatoes. Arter having boiled the potatoes in water, to take off the tartness, boil a pint of milk, in which infuse half the peel of a lemon, a lump of sugar, and a little salt. It is hardly possible to determine exactly what quantity of po- tatoes is requisite for a pint of milk; however, the mash must be made rather thick. Let it cool, and then roll it in. the shape you like best, either corks, pears, or balls. ‘Then crumb them as other croquettes; with an omelette and a little salt; and then crumbs of bread, repeating both opera~ tions twice. Give them a pleasing form, fry them of a fine colour, and send them up, but without any fried parsley. In this dish sugar must predominate, as it is one sig the class of sweet dishes. No. 5.—Casserolle of Potatoes. InsTEAD of a rice casserolle, make a casserolle of potatoes. The potatoes must be wel! done; then mix some butter and cream well with a little salt, and make the whole into a thick mash. Dish it, and make an opening that you may empty the centre. After having given it a fine brown co- lour in the oven, empty the centre, wipe your dish clean, and pour in the ragowdt, macaroni, or fricassée, &c, No. 6.—Soufflé of Potatoes. Tue soufflé requires the potatoes to be well done also. When they have boiled a sufficient time in water, strain them through a hair sieve, and put what comes through the sieve intoa mixture of milk, sugar, lemon-peel, a good bit of butter, and a little salt, as in No.4. Work the whole with the potatoes, and add the yolks of six eggs. At the moment you are going to send up the removes of the soups, beat the 303 whites of the six eggs, and mix them with the rest of the preparation. Put the whole into a soufflé dish, or into a pie-crust that has been made beforehand. The soufflé, however, is better in a dish, as you cannot get it so well done in paste. Glaze with a little pounded sugar and the sa- lamander. Send up speedily, for fear the soufflé should fall, No. 7.—Gateau: of Potatoes. Tne same preparation as for the soufflé, with the only difference, that you put some crumbs of bread into a mould. First you must put some clarified butter into the mould, so _that it may be spread all over: this being done, put two or three large handfuls of crumbs of bread, and spread them equally on all parts of the mould. Then-dip a brush into some butter, and sprinkle it gently over the contents of the mould, which strew over a second time equally with crumbs of bread, that the gateau or cake may be made of a fine colour. You may occasionally add dried currants, or dried cherries, sometimes flavour it with noyau, marasquin, or vanilla, &c. to create a variety of names and tastes. When you turn the mould, be particular not to break the cake. No, 8.—Biscuits of Potatoes. Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into one pan, and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, dry that, and pound it fine also, then throw it into the yolks, and work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the whites well, and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper cases ready, which lay on a plafond, with some paper underneath. Fill the cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some sugar, which must not be x2 — 804 pounded too fine, — and bake the whole in an oven aagret rately heated. N. B.—The cases are to be ele ona plafond, vide there has been no sugar; otherwise the apie would be soiled. : The flour of potatoes may be easily made pen ducsele np first peeling some raw potatoes, and then rasping them into a great vessel of clean cold water. When the potatoes have produced a sediment at the bottom of the pan, drain off all the water gently, and fill the pan again with very clear water, then stir up the sediment, and let it settle again. When settled, drain off all the water, and put the sediment on a clean cloth till it is quite dry. Keep it in a clean pot for use. : | : YOUNG, OR NEW GREEN PEASE. Accorpine to the French proverb, * Eat green pease with the rich, and cherries with the poor.” In fact, pease are only fit to be dressed in the French way, when they are young, extremely fine, and well selected. If they have been gathered a long time, they must undoubtedly be coarse and hard, and have lost their savour. If you wish to eat them in a state of perfection, you should do as Lord S. does, have them gathered in the morning, and dressed on the same day in the following manner: No. 1.—Pease, French fashion. For a large dish, take three quarts of green pease. ‘Throw them into an earthen pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and plenty of cold water. Handle the pease with the butter till they stick together; then drain them, take them out of the water by handfuls, and throw them into a cullender, that neither water nor any kind of filth may 305 temain. Next stew them over a moderate fire, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. When they have recovered their green colour, powder them over with a little flour; stir the pease before you moisten them ‘with boiling water, till they are entirely covered with it, which you reduce quickly on a large fire. The moment you perceive there is no mois- ture or liquor remaining, dip a small lump of sugar into ‘some water, that it may soon melt, and put it with the pease, to which add a very small quantity of salt. I have already said (See Asparagus Pease) that sugar must predominate ; ; however, green pease without salt would taste very insipid, although the persons who eat them are not sensible of there being any. Next take about a quartern of butter, which knead with a spoonful of four. Mind that the pease are boiling when you put the kneaded butter in; thicken them with it, and remember, that when green pease are properly dressed, there must be no sauce. | No, 2.—Siewed Green Pease with Bacon. THE same preparation asin No.1. The bacon is to be cut into pieces one inch square, and always taken from that part of the breast, which in France is called petit lard. Sometimes the pieces may be cut in the shape of corks, ac-- cording tofancy. Blanch these for half an hour in water, to take off the briny taste; then fry them of a fine colour, and drain all the grease. Next stew the bacon with the pease in the same manner as in No. 1. But instead of flour, put in only a little water. When the pease are nearly done and reduced, add to them a spoonful of sauce tournée, If you wish them to be of a brown colour, use some Espag- nole, and never omit a little sugar. Unless the pease are served as sauce, or an entrée, there must never be any sauce in the dish; and observe, when they are for entremets, that there must be no sauce at all. Blind ae Paral Seg A 306 No. 3 aa Bbase mites boiled, abet water boiling. When it boils, throw in the pease with a little salt. When done enough, drain them, and empty them into a stew- -pan, with a good lump of but- - ter, and a little salt. Keep stirring till the butter is melted, and season with a little more salt, and pepper also, if ap- proved of. Send up hot, but take care the butter does not tarn to oil. No. 4.Green Pease a la Paysanne. Mark the pease as in No.1. Then take a few cabbage and cos lettuces, a good handful of parsley, and a few green onions. Wash them clean, and break them with your fingers instead of chopping them. Drain the lettuce, par- sley and onions, and sweat them with the pease over a very slow fire. You need not put any other moisture but the butter: take care to stir the stew-pan repeatedly, to pre- vent the vegetables from burning. .When they are done enough, add a little pepper and salt, without any thickening, as for pease dressed in a different way. No. 5.—Of chine general, WHEN very busy, it is requisite that you should have all the pease intended for enirées, or for entremets, marked in a stew-pan. Sweat them all together, take a certain quantity for your first course, and reduce the remainder the moment you finish the entremets for the second. Pease, to be dressed French fashion, must be very young and of an equal size, for if of different sizes they never will adhere well. Have a sieve made of ozier or of cane, through which they must be sifted; such as cannot tome through are used’ for soups, purées, &c. or to be plain boiled. + =o pie 307 WINDSOR BEANS. No. | —Windsor Beans @ rs Powlette. Winsor beans are to be served at a good table, only when very young, and fresh gathered. Boil them in salt and water. When nearly done, drain them, and stew them — in a little sauce tournée, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little savory chopped very fine, and a small Jump of sugar. When the beans are sufficiently reduced, throw in a thickening made of the yolks of two eggs, and a little thick cream. Send them up in a short sauce, and properly ide pg No. 9 .—— Windsor Beans 4 la Poulette.—Another Method. Wuen the beans are large, you must take off the coats, and boil them in salt and water; cook them as above, and send them up with a short sauce. No. 3.—Beans and Bacon. Winosor beans are served as an entrée in the summer season, ‘Take a piece of streaky bacon, and boil it fora couple of hours. When ready to send up, take off the rind, and dry the bacon with a red hot shovel. Powder the bacon over with raspings of bread, Give it a pleasing shape, and lay it over the beans that have been boiled in water and salt only, without any sauce. Send up separately in a boat, some chopped parsley in melted butter. RS TURNIPS. Turnies are of the greatest utility in cookery, as they are used for seasoning all the soups, for a great many entrées, and also for entremeis, as follows: 308 es x No. 1.—Turnips with Sauce blanche. Turnirs only find their way as entremets, in winter time, » | 1 from a want of other vegetables. Cut them in the shape of — pears or balls; boil them in salt and water, and butter, and when done enough drain them, and send them up with a sauce Biante, to which you may add a little mustard, if aR proved of. | No. 2 .—Turnips glazed, Pear Fashion. Seavey a few fine turnips; turn a sufficient sioiiibel to cover, or to fill the dish; stew them in a little broth with a little sugar, which you reduce to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. When equally glazed, dish them; take a spoonful of Espagnole to detach the glaze that remains in the stew- pan, with a small bit of butter twice as big as a walnut, which you work with the sauce. Pour the sauce over the turnips without masking them, after you have given it a - good seasoning. No. 3.—The White Purée of Turnips. Ir you want to make a purée very white, you must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling water, drain and sweat them over a very slow fire, in a little butter, to prevent their getting brown. When they are done enough, add two or three spoonfuls of béchamelle, strain them en purée through a tammy, reduce and send them up, surrounded with fried toasts of bread. No. 4.—The brown Purée of Turnips. InsteaD of blanching the turnips, sweat them on a slow fire, in a little butter. Take care that they do not burn. When they are well done, moisten with three spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and. one spoonful of gravy of veai. Give them a good seasoning, rub them through a tammy, and 309 - send up as above with fried toasts of bread. Never omit putting in a small lump of sugar before you serve up, to ‘overcome the bitter taste of the turnips. | CARROTS. ove Carrots are like turnips, to supply the scarcity of vege- tables at a particular time of the year, when vega tables are dear and scarce. No. 1.—Carrots a la d’Orleans. ‘Take a few young carrots, turn them of an equal size, and cut them in slices of about the eighth of an inch thick, and blanch them well. Next lay them on a towel to . ‘drain; put them into a stew-pan with a lump of sugar and a little broth, and let them boil over a large fire. When reduced to glaze, add a good bit of fresh butter and a little salt. Mind that the butter must adhere to the carrots when you serve up, as no sauce must be seen. No. 2.—Purée of Carrots. Mince some young carrots; blanch them to take off the tart taste, and use the same process as for the purée of turnips. No. 3.—Soufflé of Carrots. ~ Make a thick purée of carrots, but instead of broth use water, in which put a great deal of sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit of butter; let all this boil till very thick, then put the yolks of six eggs, and mix all well together. The moment you are ready to send up, beat the whites of the eggs, which you throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time. ee ge 310 ss daa ELE A | No. 1.—Célert a l’ Espagnole. Cur a dozen of heads of celery of the length of your dishi & entremets; blanch them; and mark them in a stew-pan between two layers of bacon. Moisten with a spoonful of broth, and let them boil gently; when done, drain all the — fat. Lastly, dish the celery, and send it up with an Espag> nole, rather thick. om No. 2.—Céleri with Sauce blanche, Cur a dozen heads of celery as above. Let them stew in a little butter, salt, and water. When done enough, drain them, and serve up with the sauce blanche. No. 3.—For the purée of celery (See Sauces). in general, all purées are made by the same process. 311 SWEET ENTREMETS. APPLES. No. 1.—Apples 2 la Portugaise. Take a dozen of fine rennet apples; take care that they are not injured. Peel them equally, and push the core out with a vegetable cutter. Let them boil in a very thin syrup, without being too much done. Then make a marmalade with some other apples, but let it be very white. (See Marma- lade). This marmalade must be made of a good thickness. Lay the apples in a hair sieve to drain, that no syrup may remain, and next dish the marmalade, which you level with your knife. Lay the apples round the dish at an equal dis- tance, and in sucha manner as that they may be more ele- vated in the centre. In the cavity of each apple, place a preserved cherry. If you should have any apricot marma- lade, generally called apricot jam, you may use some to de-— corate this entremet as your taste may suggest, or your means allow. It would be a long and unsuccessful task to undertake to teach dressing and decorating by a book; the ingenuity and understanding of the learner will be his best guide. No. 2.—Miroton of Apples. You must take at least two dozen apples, and of that sort particularly, which stands the fire best. Golden pip- pins are generally the best. Peel them, and cut them into slices about the’size of a dollar. ‘Take a deep dish, other- wise your miroton would sink in it, and not look well. Sy ee ee ee 312 Put a little marmalade on the bottom of the dish, im order a to stick down the apples, one above another all round the dish, Fill up the middle: of the dish with the most defec- tive slices of the apples. Now lay another bed of apricot- marmalade, to prevent the apples from slipping down. Next lay a second bed of apples, and some marmalade again, so as to form a complete spiral line. You must close — the centre with a slice of apple, which is to be slit. Next — bake this in a moderately hot oven. _When the apples yield to the pressure of the finger, it isa sign of their being done enough. Lastly, sprinkle over the apples a little pounded. sugar, and glaze with the salamander. Remember that i you must give the apples a fine colouring. _ ) | No, 3.—Suédoise of Apples. Make a marmalade of apples as compact as possible. Then take small pieces of apples cut into corks, and of different colours. To dye them you need only dilute with syrup, a little carmine or saffron; and give them a boil, Next let the apples cool in the syrup, that the colour may be spread equally over them. When you dish the suédoise, first spread some marmalade over the middle of the dish, and next arrange the apple-corks symmetrically, viz. one white, one red, one yellow, and soon. As the rows as- cend, make the next always narrower, and decorate the top with cherries of a pink hue, green-gages, &c. Have some apple jelly, with which cover the suédoise, and put it into ice to cool. When the suédoise is decorated in an agreeable form, use some jelly for garnishing, and place it gently over and round the suddoise. The jelly must be of a sufficient substance not to run down the fruit. | 313 hens wa. &e4 ae og : os. No. 4.—Chartreuse of Apples and Fruit: ae Chartreuse i is ; the same thing as a suédoise, only instead of raising the fruit with the hand over the marmalade, you oil a mould of the same size as the dish you intend to use, and arrange symmetrically fruit of different colours, such as angelica, preserved oranges, lemons, &c. in short, what- ever may offer a variety of colours. Apples and pears are in more general use for the outside, but then they must be dyed as directed above, No.3. When you have deco- rated the middle or bottom, proceed to decorate the sides. Next use some thick marmalade of apples to consolidate the _ decorations. When you have made a wall sufficiently strong _ that you may turn the Chartreuse upside down, take the whitest apple jelly you can procure, some stewed pears cut into slices the size of an half-crown piece, and some cherries, &c. and mix the whole with the jelly, so as to represent a Macedoine. Do not fill the cavity too full with the miroton, as you are to close it with apple-marmalade that has more substance in it. Then turn over the Char- treuse and dish it. Glaze the fruit over with some thick — syrup. This syrup gives additional lustre to the colours, and a fresh gloss to the fruit. No. 5.—Turban of Apples. Take some real rennets or golden pippins, cut them into equal quarters, and stew them in some thin syrup. Mind they do not break. Boil some rice in cream, with a little lemon, sugar, and salt. Let the rice be done thoroughty, and kept thick. Then let it cool. When it is nearly cold, take a large piece of bread, or rather an empty gallipot, which you put in the centre of the dish, lay the rice alli round till you reach the top of the gallipot. Next take the pieces of apples that have been drained of all the syrup over SS oe a = ag ae es a Posctes og fo CE tee Re ee 314 a sieve, thrust them into the rice, sloping towards the right in the first row, and towards the left in the second, and so on till you reach the top of the turban, which you put into the oven that the apples may be made of a fine colour. 4 When you are ready to serve up, remove the gallipot, wipe off all the butter, which may sometimes be about the mid~ dle of the dish, and pour into the middle a créme rant that is made as follows : | Créme Patissiere. Take a pint of cream and a pint of milk, boil and keep stirring them with a spoon. When boiled, add about two _ ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the peel. of a lemon. Let this peel infuse till the cream tastes of the lemon; next beat the yolks of eight eggs with the cream, and do them > on the fire, stirring all the while with a wooden spoon, When the cream is become very thick; pour it into a hair sieve to drain, and keep pressing upon it with the wooden spoon. When entirely strained, put it into a pan to serve when wanted. If you wish your créme patissiére to be very thick, you’ must add more eggs to it, After having — poured the cream inside the turban, you must ornament the top of it with sweatmeats of various colours. Another Method, called Frangipane. Turow four spoonfuls of flour into a stew-pan, and beat the flour with four entire eggs, and a pint of cream, and take care the flour is well mixed: add a little salt and a little sugar. Now rasp the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, and scrape it into this preparation. Lay the whole on 2 slow fire, and keep continually stirring; for fear the contents should stick to the.stew-pan. When the mixture 315 has been on the fire for a quarter of an hour, blanch a dozen of sweet almonds and the same number of bitter ones, which pound very fine, and moisten a little, that they may not turn to oil. When reduced toa kind of pomatum, mix them with the frangipane, and try whether it tastes well. This you may use for tourtes, tartelettes, gateaux en dariole, &e. &e. (See Pastry). Observe that sugar must predomi- nate in all sweet entremets; but they must not be too sweet. ——— ie OF RICE FOR ENTREES AND ENTREMETS.- _ Caro.rna rice is generally the best. It must be observed, that rice which has been wetted by the sea, has lost its sa- vour, and of course is unfit to be made use of for casserolles with rice. You must in the first place pick the rice, and wash it by rubbing it within your hands, in several waters, till the water has not the least stain. Then smell it, for if it should smell of musk, which is often the case, it must be washed in hot water, and then in cold water again, till the - bad smell is entirely gone. Next lay it in a sieve to drain for use when wanted. eg Ee RICE FOR ENTREES, No. 1.—Casserolle of Rice. Arter having picked the rice well, wash it first in luke- warm and next in cold water, as directed above. After you have well drained it, throw it into a stew-pan of a proper size, that it may swell with ease: moisten with some pot- top*. The broth must be previously drained through a silk sieve, in order that the rice may be kept very clean. Mix it with a large quantity of grease, and some pieces of fat * Pot-top, fat. 316 ham, in order to make the rice. more mellow; add a little salt. As the rice must swell very much, use a» sufficient ‘quantity of broth to produce that effect... Lay the rice on a very slow fire, and mind to. stir it frequently that it may not stick. Taste it to ascertain whetherit is well seasoned, : and done enough ; you then strain it through a cullender, and level it well with a wooden spoon. Take off the fat that issues from the rice, and pour it into the mould which you select for the casserolle: when all the ‘parts of this latter are well covered with the grease, drain it by turning the mould upside down, then put: some rice all round the mould ; put a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice, squeeze it in equally with your spoon, and let it cool. When the rice is become firm, dip the outside of the mould into boiling water. . Have a little pdte brisée, which frame of the size of the mould; turn the mould over the paste; make an opening with a knife in the top, and flatten the paste all round with a spoon, then put it into the : oven, which can never be too hot for a casserolle, for if the oven is not hot enough the casserolle is liable to break ; baste it with the grease, and when it is become of a fine colour take it out of the oven ; open it gently, then cut the bread into small pieces with a penknife, that you may take it out without injuring the casserole; next remove the rice that sticks round, but do not empty it too much, for fear it should not bear or resist the weight of whatever you in- .— tend to throw in. You generally put into these casserolles, white and brown ragoits, blanquettes, émincés, fricassées of pullets, macaroni, and scollops of fish that have die been sent up to a &e. &e, : No. 2.—Cassolettes of Rice. Tuk rice is to be prepared as above, No. 1, but must be put into smaller moulds, those called dariole moulds. 317 Mind that the cassolettes are to be quite cold before you take them out of the mould. The best method of filling up the cassolettes, consists in taking a carrot, which you cut of a proper large size, to make a hole in the rice; this hole you fill up with amince of fowl au velouté. This mince must be thoroughly cold. When -you fill up the mould with the rice, close it without allowing any of the mince to ‘be mixed with the rice, in which case the casso- lettes would break in the dripping when you fry them. To prevent this accident the dripping must be very hot. It is _ to be observed, that in making cassoleties, the rice must be made quite firm; and that they require something of a white colour to be added ; as a mince au velouté, or a salpi- con of palates and of mushrooms @ l’ Allemande, or fillets of fish. Pe ee) GZS i ? N. B.—You may likewise give them a light brown co- lour in the oven, the same as other casserolles of rice, but frying | is the best and the quickest. No. 3.—Le Gateau de Ris, or Rice Cake. AFTER having prepared the rice as in No. 1, take some _ good cream, which you boil first, to ascertain that it will “not curdle ; the quantity must be proportionate to the size _ of the mould you intend to use. Fora quarter of a pound of rice take a quart of cream, which however is not always _ sufficient; this depends on the rice swelling more or less : in this case add a little milk to if. When the cream has | Boiled, take the peel of a lemon, which infuse in the cream | for a quarter of an hour; take the peel out before you pour in the rice, which lay on a very slow fire till it bursts, or | swells; when well swollen add a little salt, and some sugar, according to your own pa'ate; the sugar however must pre- dominate, the salt being only intended to remedy the in- : sipid taste that is inseparable from sweet entremets. Sugar | mal 318 must entirely predominate in articles for a dessert, but in entremets it is to be used moderately. When the tice is _ done enough, and properly seasoned, break eight eggs, and _mix the yolks with the rice; next beat the whites, which pour gently into the preparation; put also a good | bit of butter; then clarify about a quarter of a pound of butter, and when it is completely clarified, pour it into the mould ; turn the mould round, that the butter may be spread equally on all sides of the mould, which you then turn upside down for a moment: then put crumbs of bread into the mould, and contrive to have them likewise spread equally all over — the mould ; now dip a small piece of paper into the butter, sprinkle some butter all round the mould, and put some — more crumbs of bread. This being done to your satisfaction, — pour the rice into the mould, and put if into the oven, but — mind it must not be too hot. An hour is requited for your gateau to be baked enough. ‘Turn it upside down in — the dish, and serve up. ek oe N. B.—You may sometimes put with it preserved cherries, — raisins, or currants, &c. ; No. 4,.—Croquettes of Rice. TE rice is to be prepared as in No.3. When it has — swelled inthe cream, and is properly seasoned, let it cool; then roll it into croguettes in the shape of a cork. Next’ strew over them crumbs of bread, (by which is meant that you dip them first into an omelette, and next into crumbs — of bread). Roll them several times in the crumbs in what — form you please, and mind that they are made of a fine © colour. When you have fried them of a good colour, you may glaze them on one side with pounded sugar, by using : the salamander. Send up with fried parsley of a nice co- q lour, in the centre. | ~ ‘319 Webs ih a See xt +f bh 8 i cis lial he 3 A Sees if aes Fe Whe? bhi aes 5 Mule. cermgertise : No. 5. = Souffé i Rice. sie , Mrs ‘ Bowe cclr th, y bi | Bist! vay THE same e preparation as in No. 3, onl in ‘aikae case ey keep the rice rather more liquid, and put the whites of two more eggs: that is to say, in a gateau you put eight yolks, and as many whites, whereas in a soufflé you put only six yolks. aybriant whites, and a little more butter. , No. 6.—Rice oxtaltind: | Takk two ounces of rice, which wash and pick, &c. h Then let it swell in hot milk, as cream, when used for.en- tremets of this sort, would turn to butter. When the rice is well done, pound half a dozen of sweet almonds, and the same quantity of bitter ones; when you have made them into a paste, rub them through a tammy, and mix them with the rice, together with a little sugar, and a very little salt. Then put: the rice into a silver pan or porringer, or silver casserole, and leave it to gratiner on a slow fire for _ three-quarters of an hour or more. Instead of using the lid, only cover the pan with a sheet of paper, to prevent the dust and the steam. Serve hot; if you put a cover to it, the steam will prevent its gratin. | No. 7.— Turban of Rice. > Prepare the rice as in No.3. Have some apples cut into quarters, and stewed in syrup. ‘Take particular care | that the quarters are kept whole. Dish the rice; put a gal- | lipot in the middle, to form a vacancy, into which you are to | pour by-and-bye a vanilla cream. Dress the rice round the _ gallipot, and level it with the back of aspoon. Next place _ the apples round the rice, till you have reached the summit of it, and put the whole inte the oven, but only leave it “there time enough to dry up the syrup which sticks round z2 aed Os the apples. Next decorate with sweetmeats of different colours, such as green-gages, apricots, and cherries, and when you are ready to send up, remove the calles and fill the vacancy with the vanilla cream. | . | _ N. B.—Many entremets are made of rice créme, wich ‘ q the bye, isno more than flour of rice, which is like any other flour, except that it swells more than others. You may — make soufflés of it, and give them whatever taste you think proper. They must be always sweet, No. 8.—Croqueties. with Apricot Marmalade. _ Prepars the rice as in No. 3: form a croquette, take the 7 handle of a wooden spoon, make a hole in the croquette, which fill with marmalade apricots. Then close it up with — ‘some rice, put crumbs of bread as you do in all other cro- _ quettes, and fry in the same manner. No. 9.—Croquettes stuffed with Apples. — Prepare the rice as above, and repeat every other ope- g ‘ration, except that you must have rennets cut into small — corks, and well stewed in syrup. Drain them well, and put — them into the croquettes instead of marmalade. No. 10.—Soufflé of Apples in a bordure of Rice. PREPARE your rice as in No.3. Keep it of a strong _ solid substance, dress it up all round a dish, the same ~ height as a raised crust, that is to say, three inches high. Give a pleasing shape to the rice, and let it be levelled } smooth ; have some marmalade of apple ready made; mix with ~ it six yolks of eggs and.asmall bit of butter; warm it on the stove in order to do the yolks; then have eight whites q of eggs well whipped, as for biscuits, mix, them. lightly ~ -with the apples, and put the whole into the middle of they” gor — tice 3 put this’ into the oven, which must not be too hot.’ When the souffié is raised sufficiently, send it up, as it would soon lower. If you wish to make a kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, a little salt, lemon, and sugar ; let the whole boil well, then mix it with the apples and the yolks of four eggs: the whites are to be poured in afterwards: next bake the soufflé in the oven. This method is safer than the former, and is not deficient in ~ delicacy. No. 11.—Charlotie of Apples mixed with Apricots. Tae Charlotte has been so called after the name of the. original inventor, yet there -is no doubt but his successors have made great improvements on the original. To make a Charlotte, take a dozen of rennets; but if you use a very large mould, you must take more. Cut them into quarters, } peel them, and put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little cinnamon, the peel of half a lemon, and a little pounded sugar, . Stew all these ingredients over a brisk fire, } but. without allowing them to burn, When the apples ) are nearly done, take them off the fire, mix with them § half a pot of marmalade of apricots, and throw the whole | into a mould trimmed with slices of bread dipped. into | melted butter: cover the marmalade with bread that has also been dipped into butter. Now bake the Charlotte in an / oven that is pretty hot ; give it a good colour, and serve up hot. It is useless to recommend that the top of the Char- } lotte must be decorated ; it must always be so. To garnish the Charlotte, put some clarified butter all round a plain mould, then cut the crumbs of bread in any shape you think proper; to keep all the apples confined in the mould 1) the neatest and prettiest way, is to cut the bread with a plain round cutter, and lay them over one another all round; | they must be dipped into clarified butter before they are = 322: put into the mould; then put the apples, and cover them ; ~ q f give a good colour, aan all the butter, and serve vane hot and crisp, — 4 OF CREAMS IN GENERAL. No, 1.— Coffee Cretan” Ir is necessary to observe in this first article, that all ereams are made in the same manner; the taste and colour only varying. Take a pint of cream anda pint of milk, and boil them together. When boiled, throwin a lump of sugar and a little salt: next roast the coffee in the ome- lette pan, or in a coffee roaster. When well and equally roasted, throw it burning hot into the cream, cover the 3 stew-pan, and let it infuse till it gets quite cold. If you wish © 4 to pour the cream into cups or any other small vessels, you must measure the quantity of cream, but for a mould it is - unnecessary; put the yoik of an egg to every cup; rub the - cream twice through a tammy, in order that the egg may be well mixed with it, and next put the cups into a pan con- taining water enough to reach to half the height of them; cover them, and put a little fire over the lid of the pan, to 4 prevent any steam. dropping into the cream. As soon as the cream is done, let it cool, and take care to secure the cups from dust, &c. When you make me cream in a large mould, orn oe ee No. 2.—Lemon Cream. THE same preparation as above; but when the cream — has boiled, instead of coffee, throw in the peel of a lemon, — which you leave to infuse, with the addition of a little — salt and sugar. If intended for a cream in moulds of a large q ] 323 _ size, you. must use a greater quantity.of eggs; as for in- stance, sixteen eggs for two pints of cream or milk. bit | : No. 3.—Chocolate Créains ~ For an entremet, take a quarter of a pound of vanilla chocolate, rasp it very fine, and throw it into a pan to melt with a little water. When melted, mix and beat it with some cream, which you have boiled, as above, and a little salt. Except in creams of fruit, as pine-apple, apricots, raspberries, &c. a little salt is always requisite, but very little however. If you wish to make an ice cream, instead i of sixteen eggs for a quart of cream only put eight, which | put on the fire to thicken, but take particular care to pre- vent its curdling : as soon as you take it from the fire, mix with it a little melted isinglass,’ and rab the whole through atammy. Now try a little of the preparation in a small mould overice. If you should find that the cream has not substance enough to allow ‘of being turned upside down, you must add a little more isinglass. _ It is to be observed, that the isinglass must previously be melted in a little water. (See Method of Melting Isinglass, page 325). No. 4.—Cream @ la Vanille. > i 4 TAKE one or two sticks of vanilla, which infusein some _ : boiling cream: next put in the eggs as you do for other | creams. If you are making a fromage 2 la glace, ora fro- i mage bavarois, you must put a smaller quantity of eggs, as 4 isinglass is to be put in to stiffen it; and keep constantly e stirring the cream on the fire, while the eggs are doing. Mind that the eggs are not overdone. When you perceive i ; the cream is getting thick, put the melted isinglass in, and rub it through a tammy, then put it into a mould, and into i | 9 ice. When you wish to make the cream more delicate, let 324 it get cold; then put it into a vessel over ice, before. you put any isinglass into it, and whip it ; when quite frozen put in some cold melted isinglass: this method requires less | isinglass, and the jelly is much lighter... | No, 5.—Cream au Thé. Bo. a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into which throw a little salt and some sugar ; the latter must however — predominate. When the cream boils, throw two or three spoonfuls of good tea into it, give it a boil, put in ten : yolks of very fresh eggs, and proceed as usual upon the fire, ; till the cream becomes thick ; then put in the isinglass, &e. | If your mould is peal, six eggs are sufficient. No. 6.—Orange-Flower Cream. — InstEAD of tea, infuse a large pinch of orange flowers, and when the cream has got the flavour, put in the eggs, &c. No. 7.—Cream a la Genét, dite au Caramel. Mutr about an ounce of sugar in a confectionary pan. Let it reduce till it is brow n, but mind to keep continually _ stirring, to prevent the sugar from getting a bitter taste. When quite brown, dilute it with a little water, to which — add a little sugar to qualify the bitter taste. Next usea little more water to melt this caramel. When melted, take — a quart of cream that has boiled, throw the caramel into it, and put a sufficient quantity of ‘sugar to make it palatable. _ If you wish to have the cream iced, pour in the yolks of eight eggs; but if you intend to have it with eggs only, you must use twelve. In the first case, when the eggs are well mixed, put the stew-pan on the fire to thicken the cream, and when it begins to thicken stir it well, and throw in the isinglass that you have melted previously ; then put it into the mould, and ice it. You must let it cool first, or it will melt the 395- - ice, and the mould will be liable to tilt over, and the cream: fall,out. It is not customary in this country to use cream. without isinglass, therefore it is not particularly necessary _ to recommend the method of making them with eggs only; it is sufficient to say, that when you intend to put no isin- glass into the cream, you must put more eggs, and it must _ not be done till it is put into the mould; butter.the mould with clarified butter, then put the cream into it, to be — poached in boiling water, with fire on the lid, to prevent the steam from falling in. With respect to the multiplicity of names, they are derived from the peculiar flavour of the cream ; there is no difference in the manutation. ‘Thus rose cream, vanilla cream, lemon cream, orange-flower cream, marasquin cream, pine apple cream, &c. &c. derive _ their respective appellation from the flavouring ingredient. eal are Seb oe alike. rNINO: Os — The Milind of Melting Isinglass. To melt a quarter of a pound of isinglass, take a little more than a pint of water, into which throw the twelfth part of the white of an egg; beat the water well till it be- “comes white ; throw the isinglass into that water, and lay it on the stove over a very slow fire. If you keepitco- _ vered, it will melt more easily. Take care it does not burn, | for then it can never be made clear, and besides, it would have an unpleasant taste, Fora larger quantity put more water, but not more white of egg. Some people put in the peel of a lemon, which is wrong; however, you may squeeze the juice of it into it if you want the isinglass to be clear, but for cream it is useless, Always put isinglass cautiously; in order to make cream or jellies in perfection, always try alittle in a small mould. If the jelly should not be firm enough, put a little more isinglass. It is impossible to determine the exact quantity that is required for creams $26 or jellies, as the dishes and moulds are never of the same _ dimension. ‘lhe best method therefore is to try by tasting. A surgeon once enquiring of me, why cooks had not weights and measures the same as apothecaries? I instantly replied : . because we tasle our recipes, and those gentlemen very seldom taste those - weer are mixing ; therefore they vy : | have exact measures.’ No. 9.—Egg and Water Creams Pe Bor. a pint of water with half a eet of a pine af { sugar, a little coriander, a little cinnamon, and the peel of alemon. When all those ingredients have been well in- fused, break the yolks of eight eggs, which you mix and q beat with that preparation; then rub it through a tammy, | and put it into small cups to thicken au bain marie. Put but very little fire under, as there must be some on the covers, to prevent the water of the steam from falling into the cream. The cream must not boil too long, and only gently, for fear it should curdle. This cream agrees very well with weak stomachs. 7 No. 10.—Eggs aw Bouillon, and reversed, Takk some good consommé, of the particular sort you wish to use, whether of game or of fowl: do not put any sugar to it. Measure acup full of it to every yolk, and _ make this cream thick, in the same manner as you do all others. If you wish to make it with reversed eggs, usetwo ~~ yolks of eggs for each dariole mould, and proceed as above ; with the only difference, that you must butter the moulds lightly inside with some clarified butter. Boil the eggs in — : moulds instead of cups, and when they are hard enough, . turn them upside down in the dish; serve up with some consommé thickened. with the yolks of two eggs, and poured over as sauce, 327 No. 11.—Eggs & la Neige. » Take the whites of six eggs, which will be enough for an entremet ; whip them till they get thick; have some milk boiling over the fire in a large stew-pan; poach several spoonfuls of the whites in it, and when done enough, drain and dish them; next make a sauce to pour over them in the following manner: take some of the milk in which you have poached your eggs, then put a little sugar, a little orange flower, and_a little salt; mix the yolks of four eggs with the same, stir the whole on the fire till the milk is made thick, put it through a tammy, and mask the neiges with that sauce. No. 12.—Jtalian Cream. Bor a pint of cream with half a pint of milk. When it boils, throw in the peel of an orange and of a lemon, to in- fuse with half a quarter of a pound of sugar and a small pinch of salt. When the cream is impregnated with the flavour of the fruit, mix and beat it with the yolks of eight eggs, and put it on the fire to acquire an equal thickness. As soon as it is thick enough, and the eggs done, put a little melted isinglass in it, strain it well through a tammy, and put some of it into a small mould, to try if it is thick enough to be turned over. If not, add a little more isinglass, and put the preparation into a mould on ice, When quite frozen, and you wish to send it up, dip a towel into hot water, and rub it all round the mould, to détach the cream, and turn it upside down on a dish. By this means the cream is brighter, and the dish not soiled. If you whip the cream before you put it into the mould, it makes it more delicate, and og: 328 No. 13.—Pine- Apple Cream. INFUSE the rind of a pine-apple in boiling cream, cat proceed as usual for other fruit. You must only use’ the’ rind, for the pulp of the pine- idee being acid, the cream would curdle. No. 14. Cabinet Pudding, or Chancellor's Pudding. Bo a pint of cream, in which put to infuse a little lemon peel, and a little salt. Pour the cream while boiling over a pound of biscuits, a@ la cuilliere, and let them soak. Next add the yolks of eight eggs. Then beat the whites of six, eggs only: some persons add a little brandy, but that I dis- approve of. Butter over a mould, and decorate it with pre- served cherries. When you send up the first course, pour the above preparation into a mould, and put it au bain marie. Observe, that if the mould is large, you must use more eggs. Makea sauce as for the eggs ala neige, into which © squeeze the juice of a lemon; or make a sauce with arrow- root as follows: dilute a spoonful of arrow-root with white - wine and sugar, and lay it on the fire to boil; keep it liquid enough to mask the mould, and let the dried cherries that are round be full in sight. N. B.—This pudding can be made af remnants of Savoy biscuits, or brioche, or the crumb ofa penny loaf. No. 15.—Soufflé, or Cake of Tapioca. ‘Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which: requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it "over too brisk a fire, it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is ex- tremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream anda pint of milk with a little sugar, and very little salt. Then infuse the peel of half a lemon; but if the taste of orange flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c. should be more agreeable, — use them in preference, according to the taste of your em- ployer. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire. When it is done, throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which you beat up with it, and let them do over the stove. When | you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently with the rest, and set the whole into a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread: mix with the preparation some dried cherries and currants, and proceed as you would /do for a soufflé. When done, turn the mould upside down in a dish, and send up hot. No. 16.— Tapioca gratiné. Pur half a quarter of a pound of very clean tapioca, with a quart of hot milk, a small bit of sugar, a very little salt, and one leaf of almond laurel; let this boil gently over a - slow fire; when the tapioca is done, put it into a silver stew- pan, and set it on a pretty sharp stove fire to gratiné; let it stick very much to the bottom of the stew-pan; take out the laurel leaf, and serve it up with a cover over. No. 17.—Croquettes of Chesnuts. Take fifty good chesnuts, and put them into a hot oven, observing that you must cut each of them with the point of your knife, to prevent them from bursting. When well roasted, clean them, and put three parts of them (taking care to chuse those parts that have colour) into the mortar, with three ounces of butter and a spoonful of cream; rub - this paste through a hair sieve, then mix with it the same quantity of butter as before, a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream; put the whole 330 over the fire in a stew-pan to dry like roval paste, or a choux; when it has acquired a little consistence, put to it six yolks of eggs, and give to the preparation the taste you think proper, as lemon, vanilla, cédrat, coffee, &c.; let this paste go to the fire again after you have put the yolks of the six eggs; stir it well with a wooden spoon till itis rather firm; then butter a dish, and spread this paste over, equally, with your knife; cover this with a sheet of buttered paper, and let it cool; when cold, cut it with a knife, and take half of a chesnut, and make the paste into the shape of a big chesnut; put some crumbs of bread over the croquettes, then dip them into three eggs beaten up with a little salt, and into the crumbs again; give them a good shape, fry them of a nice colour, and serve them without fried parsley, as a sweet dish; sometimes dip them into eggs only, with- out crumbs; they are more delicate. Put fine sugar over them after they are fried. V . . SOUFFLES FOR ENTREMETS. Ir will be sufficient to observe on the subject of soufflés, that they are all made in the same manner, and that they vary only in the taste you give them. If sent up in proper time they are very good eating, if not, they are no better than other puddings. | No. 1.—Soufflé of Potatoes with Lemon. Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has boiled, and in which you have infused the peel of a lemon; to this add a little sugar, a large lump of butter, and a little salt; the taste of | the sugar, however, must predominate; yet observe, that the less sugar you use the lighter the soufflés are. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the pota- toes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the above preparation into a soufflé dish, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the souffié is done enough, powder a little sugar over it, and. use the sala- . mander; souffiés must be served up the moment. they are reaAYs for they are liable to sink. ny No. 2.—Soufflé of pee Me lower. Dixote a little flower with half cream and milk; set this pap on the fire to boil; when the flower is done, put a little salt, a little sugar, and a small quantity of pounded orange flower, mix well, and then add a large lump of butter, the yolks of six ezgs, and mix the whole well. Next beat the six whites, and mix then with the rest: then bake the souffié as above, and when it is baked enough, Dinkh it and send it up. No. 3 Souffle of prise Rice. Wasu and pick a certain quantity of rice; when it has lost all improper flavour, lay it in an hair sieve to dry before the fire; when quite dry'pound it, and sift it. Take two spoonfuls of the flour, and dilute it with a little cream and milk; boil them on a slow fire, and give whatever taste you may think proper. Of course you must add butter, sugar, salt, beaten whites, &c. as to all other sowfflés ; then send up. No. 4.—Souffilé of Bread. Bot some milk with a little cream, to which give any taste you think proper. Throw into it the soft part of - two or three fresh rolls to soak, rub the bread through a sieve, and proceed with the eggs, butter, sugar, &c. as Nos. 1, 2, and 3. No. 5.—Soufflé of Coffee. Box a pint of cream with a pint of milk, to which add a little sugar and a very little salt. ‘Take a clean omelette pan, 332 or a coffee roaster, and recast in it a quarter of a pound of coffee on a slow fire. “When it is equally roasted, throw it into the boiling cream, that it may acquire a proper taste of the coffee. Use this cream to make either bread. “souffle No. 4, or potatoe soufflé, No. 1, &c. &e. a5 No. 6.—Sougité of Chocolate. TAKE a quarter of a pound of chocolate, which cut as small as you can, and melt it on the fire in a little water. When it is entirely melted, throw it into the re ea paration, No. 4, the same as all others. — Vanilla Soufflé, Pine-Apple Soufflé, + Saffron Souffié, Rose Souffle, fe and generally all other soufflés, are prepared in “the same , manner. The question is, to make the preparation well, and above all things to beat the whites of the eggs very well, for on that alone depends the raising or falling of the soufflé. > a OMELETTE SOUFFLE. Break six eggs, put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into another; rasp a little lemon peel or orange flowers, beat the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, and next beat the whites well en neige, and mix them with the yolks lightly. Then put a lump of butter into an omelette pan on the fire; when the butter is melted, pour the omelette into the pan; when it is firm enough on one side to hold the liquid part, » turn it over on the dish you send up; then bake it in an ~ oven, or use the Dutch oven. When it is well raised, glaze hig it, and send it up immediately, for it would soon lower. Mind, it must be covered hermetically with a great fire over it, otherwise it will not rise. : a No; Ll.—Jelly and: Miroton of Peaches a la Ude, Cur a ‘dozen of peaches into halves, peel them gently, and boil them i in a thin syrup, but do not boil them too long, If they are very fine, you may use them almost raw, but if common fruit, the syrup will improve the look of them. Break the stones, peel the kernels, and throw them into the hot s syrup with the fruit. When the peaches have infused about an hour, you may use them for making jelly en mi- roton, which i is done as follows: drain the peaches in a new sieve, take the syrup, and squeeze six lemons into it; put this through a jelly bag; when very clear, put some clarified isinglass into it, and put some into a plain mould in ice, When it is firm, dress the peaches over the jelly, and put the kernels between, then stick all this together with some jelly; when stiff, put some more jelly gently, let it freeze, and then fill the mould; put a great quantity of ice round the mould, and some salt, as this jelly is very liable to break; but it is one of the most delicate that can possibly be made, No. 12.—Calf’s Foot Jelly, Notwirustanpine calf’s foot jelly is seldom made alone, yet it is incumbent on me to explain how it ought to. be made. Bone the calf’s feet first, put them into warm water to disgorge all the blood, then boil them in clear water, and skim till the water is quite limpid. ‘Then put the stew-pan on a small stove, and let it boil gently till the calf’s feet are well done. Drain the liquor through a double silk sieve; skim the fat off with the most scrupulous attention, then throw a large piece of sugar into the liquor. Six feet make a large dish. Throw likewise into the jelly the peel of four lemons, and. also the juice; add to this a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves, a little allspice, and break. four eggs whole, but very fresh, into the mixture. Smell the eggs, one 340 after another, for if one of them should not be fresh and sweet, it would spoil the whole jelly. Whip the jelly, but take care the rod is not greasy. Lay the jelly on the fire, and keep beating it till it begins to turn white, and to bubble round the stew-pan. Then remove the stew-pan from the fire, cover it, and lay some fire on the cover. This fire i is intended to preserve the strength of the jelly, which otherwise (the steam dropping from the lid). would become weak. When the jelly has simmered for an hour on a very slow fire, strain it through a bag. It must be strained se- veral times over to make it quite bright; then put it into the mould, and lay it on ice till it is frozen; send it up | like all other jellies. It must be very clear and enepetene Hy No. 13 —Madeira Wine Jelly. Tuts jelly is made exactly in the same manner as ; the pre- ceding one. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stew-pan a bottle or two of Madeira. As the ope- ration of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet on another day. This is a common jelly, which cooks and traiteurs fre- quently serve; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament. it pirids another jelly, which you make as follows: ii, fs oe Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, break the yolks of ~ four eggs into a stew-pan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice, and use it for the same purpose, to decorate, as at No. 8. N, B.—It will sometimes happen that the jellies made of. _ ealf’s feet, will break, when you turn them upside down into a dish. ‘To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of 341 isinglass when you are going to clarify the Jelly. It gives it a greater substance, HIS ‘ FROMAGES A LA GLACE, OR FROMAGES BAVAROIS. No. 1.—Fromage @ Abricots. 2 be Ir will be necessary to mention in this No. 1, that bitke is but little variety in the manner of making fromages, they only vary in the taste; so that by recurring to this number, it'will be impossible ever to commit a mistake. If in the summer season, take according to the size of them, eight or twelve ripe apricots: take away the peel’and stones; throw the apricots into a mortar, and-pound them with a little sugar. When well pounded, rub them through a tammy, and press upon the fruit with a new wooden spoon. Mix a little melted isinglass with this purée. Beat a pint of thick cream well, and mix it with the apricots also. Taste whether the cream is sweetened enough. Continue to whip it over ice, til] you perceive that the isinglass is well melted and blended with the mixture; then put the fromage into a mould, round which you heap a large quantity of ice with _ some salt. If you do not attend particularly to the stirring ~ of it over ice, the apricot will fall to the bottom of the mould, so that when you turn the ice-cream upside down into the dish, it will appear of two colours, and the yellow part will be tough. In winter time take a pot of marmalade of apricots, and rub it into a purée through a hair sieve; mix a little pounded sugar with it, and a little melted isinglass. Then as above, take a pint of thick cream, or more, accord- ing to the mould, whip it well, mix it gently over ice with “the fruit, and when they are well mixed, put them into the mould, and surround it with ice. ids No. 2.—Fromage of Strawberries, vt Ps hr Take a pottle of strawberries, make a purée of them, put a sufficient quantity of sugar to sweeten it well, and add a little clarified isinglass. Next mix the whole with a pint of whipped cream, and proceed as directed above. No, 3.—Fromage of Raspberries. THE same process as above. Make a purée of the yasp- berries, and whip the cream, &c. as above. No. 4,— Fromage with Orange Flowers. In this case you must make an infusion. Boil half a pint of cream, into which throw a handful of orange flowers, and let the cream cool. When it is cold, and has acquired the taste of the flowers, strain it through a sieve, and mix it with another pint of thick cream; keep whipping it over ice till the mixture is made thick. Next take some melted isinglass, and mix it well with some pounded sugar: put the whole with the cream, keep stirring it over the ice till it acquires a good substance, then fill the mould, and surround it with ice. : } | N. B.—Fromages require but very little isinglass. ‘They must be very delicate indeed, but above all, extremely cold. No. 5.—Fromage & la Vanille. Herr again you must make a decoction. Boil half a pint of cream, and infuse two sticks of vanilla, cut into halves; add a little salt and sugar. For the rest proceed as above, No. 4. N. B.—Vanilla that has served once, may serve a second | time, if you pound the sticks before they are infused. Oc ictal ub I LO BE Ot 343 No. 6.—Fromage au TMorocanl _ Wap a pint and a half of rich cream. When it is quite thick, pour into it two or three glasses of marasquino, the juice of a lemon, and a little melted isinglass. Next put the whole into a mould, and keep stirring it over ice till the i isin- glass i is well mixed, and begins to freeze. Then proceed as above. | No. 7.—Fromage aw Chocolat. PRocEED as above. Melt a quarter of a pound of cho- colate that you have previously rasped or pounded: adda little water to it; when melted, mix with it a little isinglass and a little sugar; then mix that with whipped cream, fill the mould, and surround it with ice. Do not neglect to whip it over ice, till you find the mixture begins to freeze, = one it into the mould, and surround it with ice. © No. 8.—Fromage au Café. fy ait ae (SEE Creams, for the mode of infusing coffee), only 1 use one half of the cream for the infusion, which, when cold, mix with the other half. Beat the whole on ice, add eee and then fill the mould, &c. &c.. | Observation.—The fromages Bavarots, made of fruit, de- serve the préference over those made with infusions. But in the winter season, for a grand dinner. or supper, when a _ great variety is required, infusions may be recurred to, but in that case, use preserved fruit and sweetmeats of all kinds. No. 9.—Marbled Jellies. Tus a of making a jelly will answer the purpose of economy; as for instance, if you have a little orange jelly left, and should have served up on the preceding day a cream @ la vénitienne, keep this latter in a very cool place; cut it into unequal pieces, the same as the orange jelly: put the whole into a mould, and shake them together a little. When the pieces-are well mixed, pour alittle melted orange jelly into the mould; observe that it must be quite cold, or else the composition will become livid; if you pay proper attention, this jelly will be as good, as it is pleasing to the eye. No. 10. ar bien Cream au C Café. WHEN you have prepared the cream as directed above, have a little very brown caramel ready ; ; take about half, the cream, and add to it a little caramel, that it, may be of a darker colour than the other half, but it must be of the same substance with respect to isinglass; then take a. mould rubbed lightly over inside with oil, which you lean sideways, and put a little white cream into it; when that has acquired a good substance, throw in some of the brown cream, and so on alternately till the mould is quite fall. Then cover the mould all over with ice. When you are ready to serve up, rub it with a towel dipped into hot water, the same as you do the Mosatque. (See Jellies, No. 8). No. 11.—Marbled Cream, White Vanilla and. Chocolate, Make both creams separately, as directed above. Try whether they are of the same substance, for if one should be thicker than the other, they would separate in the dish. Rub the mould lightly over with oil, give it a sloping direc- tion, and pour a little vanilla cream into it; when that is frozen, turn the mould a little, and put in a little chocolate cream; let that freeze, and go on so alternately, till the mould is entirely full. Next cover the mould with tee. Use the same process for liberating the cream from the mould, as above, I close here ‘the list of creams and JSromages, but the number of them is immense. I do not approve of using many odours for perfuming cream or jelly; rose-water, ‘orange-Hower water, jessamine water, violet, tuberose, and all the flowers in the world may be used; but I do not admit those scents which are generally used for the toilette; if j you ‘chuse, however, to give any other flavour, it is left to your’ own discretion. HOT AND COLD PASTRY. Ir will not be amiss to observe in this place, that not- withstanding the immense number of articles of pastry that may be made, you proceed nearly always on the same prin- ciple, and with the same paste. It rests with the intelligent practitioner to multiply the arrangements and forms: with regard to the taste, it will always be found to be a compound of butter, flour, sugar, &c. The various sweetmeats that _ serve for garnishing pastry, most essentially contribute to improve its appearance and savour. However, the puff . paste, which is sent up to table in above a hundred different forms, can be made in one single way only: it may, how- ever, be more or less fine, and thicker or thinner, You -may make it finer by using a great deal of butter, but then it has less substance. 1 shall treat of the different kinds of | paste. The baking of pastry requires particular attention. You must be well acquainted with the oven, to be enabled - to send up nice pastry.. The best prepared paste, if n not properly baked, will be good for nothing. I recommend strict attention to these remarks; be also very punctual in. observing the effects of the paste, and always use dry flour, pant oS Oe ee eR Ma 346 No. 1.—Pdte Brae: ir is impossible to point out the exact quantity of paste requisite fora pie, as that depends entirely on the size of it. Take two pounds of well sifted and dried flour, spread it on a dresser, maké alarge hole in the centre, into which puta pinch of salt, three eggs, yolks and white together, a glass of water, and three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter. Work the butter with the flour till it begins to look like crumbs of bread, then mix the whole together, till it be- comes quite malleable; if the paste is too firm add a little water. Now work it well with your hands, and make it as firm as possible, for if it is not very firm you will néver be able to erect the circumference or fank works of apie. I have found out a method both easy and expeditious, of erecting these walls, (for I will venture to call them so), in such a manner as that they never tumble or shrink, as is too often the case under the management of many unskilfut pastry-cooks. Take a lump of paste, proportionate t6 the size of the pie you are to make ; mould it in the shape of a sugar-loaf, put it upright on the table, then with the palm of your hand flatten the sides of it; always keep the middle high and up-' right ; when’ you have equalized it all round, and it is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the point at about half the height of it, and give it the shape of a hat; thus it is kept’ quite even, and this is executed with so much celerity, that you can make a dozen of them in an hour’stime. Now, if you wish to makea cold pie, trim the middle of the paste and all round, with layers of bacon cut of an equal sizes” Jay those layers double all over except on the border, that’ you may leave room to stick the cover or upper crust on. First put in some farce: (See Farce for Pies) ; next having boned the game or poultry, season the middle well with eS ee et _ i eR 347 salt, pepper, and allspice, and lard the most fleshy parts with slices of bacon highly seasoned, for it is to be ob- served that pies taste very insipid unless they are highly sea- soned. Now open the bird by the back, spread it on the table, and put some of the farce over the inside; put plenty of salt, and close the bird, &c. to restore it to its former shape; lay it over the farce. If you dress more than one, mind that they are all equally filled with the farce. Should you wish to put in truffles, mince some with the farce, and strew the pie equally with whole ones that have been well peeled, yet always as much towards the top as possible, that they may be seen at the opening of the pie. As wealthy individuals never eat any but the upper part of a pye, ip am induced to recommend the timballe in preference. When the pie is quite full, cover it with bacon, the same as you do to trim the sides. Fill all the cavities with butter. Next spread with the roller, a lump of paste of a size some- what larger than your pie. Use the brush all round. Mind that the top is quite level. Stick the top or cover well over the border, make a hole, like a chimney ‘funnel, in the middle of this top or cover, and stick a piece of paste round it, made in the shape of a stick of sealing-wax. Now cut some blades or leaves of paste, which are to be made as I shall direct hereafter. Place them close to each other round the aperture, without stopping.it, and use a little water to make them stick. When you have done with the summit, pinch the bottom part, and the circumference of the upper part ; decorate the sides or flanks to the best of ‘your abilities. This, however, being only a matter of theory, it is impossible to enter into an explanation that. would require volumes. N.B.—The feuilles (blades, leaves), are made in the fole lowing shape <==]. You must fold down the point marked || , but not lay the leaves too flat. Glaze the ¥ od foe A) ie ee #¥# 348 whole with an egg well beaten, and next bake the pie in an aven that is not very hot. Four hours are required to bake it: mind to watch its baking, and if it should acquire too brown a colour, cover it with paper. _ ) —r No. 2.—Cold Pie en Timballe. Tus sort of pie is preferable in taste as well as in appear- ance. The paste is made as under: chuse a stew-pan that will let the pie out easily when baked. I mean a stew-pan - that is not narrower at the opening than at the bottom; butter it well all round, and spread enough paste over the dresser with the rolling-pin to fill the inside of it, then take a smaller stew-pan, one that can go easily into the other, flour it to prevent the paste from sticking to it, and put the paste over the bottom of it. Keep it turned upside down, _ then put the large stew-pan over the paste, and turn them . both over together. Now take out the small pan, and with your fingers stick the paste equally all round the large one, observing that you must leave no air between the paste and the pan. Keep the paste of an equal thickness. Next trim your paste with slices of fat bacon, and then put in whatever you mean to make your pie of; whether poultry or game. Put the breast downwards close to the bacon, then squeeze some farce into all the cavities to fill them up. Next put some veal all over the bird or fowl, seasoning it very highly with salt, pepper, spices, Cayenne, &c. &c. Then put a few slices of ham, and fill up the pie, though not quite to the top, with farce; cover the whole with slices of bacon ; put here and there a small bit of butter, and then turn down the upper part of the paste all round the stew-pan, laying it equally flat. Roll a bit of paste, the same eitcumférence as the stew-pan, about the thick- ness of a finger, rub the paste over with a brush dipped in ee ae fe 349 water, and shut the pie with 'théround piece, pressing hard with your hand every where, in order to stick the two pastes together, then make an air-hole in your pie with the end of a knife, put it into a hottish oven, and when the top is sufficiently coloured, cover it with paper. Four hours are required to bake a large pie, a small one of course will take ‘ fs less time. No. 3.—To eet pity) or hot Pies, either of Fowl, or Game) | either dressed or in Timballes. | Pefianbaltes possess the peculiar advantage of never ieules ing in the oven, as the other pies often do; and above all, : the advantage of leaving the best part at the disposal. of the eater. ape The other way, the best part sea remains at ‘the ha tom of the pie, and is generally lost, As you. ae the timballe to Gool in the stew- ~pan, all the gravy runs down- wards, and the fat remains at top. When you serve it, what was at the bottom is then at. the top, and of course the best part comes out first. és as For either pie or dimballe, pick ‘and ciean properly your game or poultry, and singe them over the flame of the _ stove, then bone the birds, taking, care to injure the skin as ay little as possible; then open them flat on the table, and. season with plenty of salt, pepper, spices, < and Cayenne; cut some pieces of bacon, (called lardons), about the thick~_ . ness of your finger, and a proper length for larding, season - them well also in the same way, and lard the inside at the... le birds. with them; lard also some veal, as veal must always be used in pies. - Pound some Jarce, (See Farce, No. 15,. page 100), with truffles, seasoning it highly; spread some of it. over the flesh of the bird, and.roll the bird into its original shape. Now proceed in, all respects as. directed. above. If it is a timballe put the bird first, and then the Bh 350 farce and veal, &c. Ifa raised pie, put the farce first over | | the bacon, then the veal, and the bird or fowl, as they. must be always at the top. Observe, that when you lard your veal and bird, the bacon must be put in sy eco a so as to a pi when cut, like a draft-board. Consonitne Sore the inside of the Cold Pie. * Take all the bones and trimmings of the bird and veal, P iy to them aknuckle of veal, and a calf’s foot, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with a bit of ham; an onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of parsley and green onions, _ seasoned with thyme, bay-leaf, basil, and a bit of garlic ; pat with this a glass of white wine and a glass of water, cover ‘the stew-pan hermetically, and set it on a slow fire. ‘When the meat is sweated through, moisten tothe top with boiling water, and let it boil till the meat is done through. Season with salt and pepper, strain it through a silk sieve, and then reduce it almost to a glaze, to put into the pie . — , when you take it out of the oven. Shake the pan, to intro- : duce the jelly every where. No. 4.—Paste for Hot Raised Pies. . For a dish of entrées, take a pound of flour, half a pound < of fresh butter, three yolks of eggs, anda pinch of salt. 7) Sift the flour on the dresser, through a sieve that you keep . A _ for that purpose. Make a hole in the middle of the flour, — oe the butter, eggs, and salt into it, with about half a pint | of clear water. Work this together in summer. In winter mix the butter first ; in summer you may ice the butter, and — use iced-water, that the paste may not be too soft. It is. no easy matter to give directions in writing, for dressing the pie. After having made the paste with great care, make a ball, spread it on the dresser with a rolling-pin, then put it over a double buttered paper, and proceed to 351 _ raise it all round, by pressing with your fingers, till you are able to form a round, and deep shape, like the inside of a hat; then with two of your fingers press gently all round | the bottom, to make a little projecting border; when you have done this equally, decorate it to the best of your inge- nuity, line the inside with slices of fat bacon, and fill the pie with remnants of paste cut small, or with some chopped beef-suet; then put on a cover of paste, soldering it well with the border, having first rubbed. it over with a brush dipped in water ; after you have put on the ornaments, : rub the paste lightly over with a brush dipped in omelette ee (called dorure or gilding), and then bake the pie; when ee done, cut out the cover, empty well the inside, and use it — for either pie or soufflé. You may sometimes use for these, the paste made with hot water, which follows; but that paste is not eatable. It answers, however, just as well, for blip rarely eat the crust. eS ee ee No. 5.—Hot Waiter Pasie. Turow into an earthen pan as much flour as you want | for your quantity of paste. Pour some boiling waterintoa stew-pan with-a large lump of butter and some salt,. Lay the whole on the corner of the fire till the butter is entirely - melted. As you are to dilute the paste with boiling water, — ‘use a wooden spoon to beat it, but mind not to make it t q* soft: when you have beaten it well with the spoon move it from the earthen pan, work it well on the dresse 4 and place it for a moment, covered in a cloth, pare the ee fire, that you may work it more easily. This paste may : make either cold or hot pies, as directed above. (See Pate @ Brisée, page 346). This paste does not taste so nice as the i! other, but you may work it with greater facility, and it is not liable to so many accidents. Bb2 3 ie # 302 — TRUFFLES. Be particular in smelling the truffles. Throw away those which have a musky smell; wash them well with a brush in 7 cold water only: when very clean, pick out the larger to be served 4 la serviette, or au vin de Champaign, and peel the others very thin; cut them to be put into clarified butter with the sauté of either fowls or game; the trimmings are used to give flavour to different consommés. When they are used with large entrées, they are done with fowl or poe th &c. in the poéle, or braize. No. |.—Truffles with Champaign Wine. pete “gti selected the best truffles, trim a ma -pan with slices of bacon; put the truffles into that stew-pan, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, well seasoned*; mois- ten with a spoonful of good consommé, two glasses of Cham- paign, some salt and pepper, and if you have a good poéle from fowls, put in some of. it, fat and liquid together ; set them to boil gently for one hour; let this cool in the stew- pan. “When you wish to serve up, warm them again, and drain them in a very clean towel. Serve them up in a beau- tiful napkin, as white as possible, to make a contrast with the black of the trufiles. iraqi No. 2.— Truffles a UV Italienne. “Wasn and trim the truffles as above; cut them in slices about the size of a penny piece; put them into a sauté pan, with parsley and a little shalot chopped fine, some salt and pepper, and a little butter; put them on the: fire, | and stir them that they may fry equally; when they are done, which will be in about ten minutes, drain off some of the butter; * Seasoned, means to put to it, thyme, bay-leaves, cloves; sweet basil, &e. &e, then put a little fresh butter, a spoonful of Espagnole sauce). the juice of one lemon, a little Cayenne pepper, and serve very hot. This is a relish. Timballe for Macaroni. Tae paste for a hot timballe must be a little more delicate than for acold pie; put therefore more butter into it. Take _ a pound of flour, a little more than half a pound of butter, two yolks of eggs, and a pinch of salt; work this with half a glass of water, making the paste as smooth as possible; proceed then as follows: butter a plain mould all over well, decorate the bottom a little and the sides, spread the paste over a dresser, cut a piece of the size of the bottom of the mould (using the mould to measure with), and cover the bottom of the mould and all the decorations, without dis- turbing them; water the ornamented paste, as above ; ‘then stick the other paste lightly over, and cut a bit of paste to put all round over the decorated parts; roll a little paste also to stick the whole together round the bottom, then fill the mould with beef-suet chopped fine, and make a cover to it of the same length; put this into the oven for an hour, and when done emply it for use. It may be used for macaroni, fricassée, blanquettes of every kind, &c, &c. Paste for. Tourtes and Tarts. Takes a pound and a half of flour, a pound and a quarter of fresh butter, a large pinch of salt, four yolks of eggs, and half a glass of water. Mix this paste as lightly as possible, without handling it too much; spread it over the dresser with a rolling-pin, and then fold it in three, as you do puff- paste. Roll it out, and fold it up again. Do this four times running; this is what is called four-turned. Use this paste either for tourte of entrées, or pies of meat or fruit, or when it may be wanted. 354 ~ Puff: Paste. ‘Taxe the same quantity of butter as of flour, so that if you use two pounds of the one you must also use two pounds of the other; and so on. Weigh two pounds of very dry flour, and sift it; then lay it on the table, and make a very large hole in the middle; throw in a little pinch of salt, a few small pieces of butter, and three yolks of eggs: use a little cold water to melt the salt; take water enough to make _ the paste of the same consistence as the butter. In winter time you must make the paste very firm, because then the butter is so, In summer time you must make the paste very soft, on account of the butter being so. The reason why you are obliged to do so is, that if the paste were not made of the same substance as the batter, this latter, when you turn the paste, would break through. When you have worked lightly the flour, mould it into a large ball, which you flatten as quickly as possible; turn it ina spiral direc- tion, and then flatten the middle. Lay butter on the table with a little water, handle it a little to extract the white liquid, and squeeze it in a clean towel, that no moisture may remain. -Lay the ball of butter over the paste, flatten the butier with a cloth, then fold the paste over the butter all round, but in a square form, so as to wrap it well all — over. ‘Try whether the paste is firm enough to prevent the butter from breaking through it. Now powder a little flour over the table and the paste. Roll the paste as smooth as possible with the rolling-pin, as long as you can; fold it in three, and roll it over once again, taking care always to ‘powder it over with avery little flour, to _ its sticking to the table or to the rolling-pin. After having spread it well, fold it again in three. Make two marks on the top with the rolling-pin, to remember that it has been rolled twice. Then put it into a plafond trimmed with a little 355 flour, and place it on the ground to keep it cool, and— leave it there for a little while. A moment after put the paste on the dresser, and proceed twice more as before; then let it rest again, and give it two turnings more, which will make six in all. Now give it a long shape, and fold it in two. You may then use it to make a vol au vent. When at the latter end you fold the paste double only, and that is what is called half a turning, of course you are aware that the paste must have had six turnings and a half before-you can make a vol au vent, and that you must: keep the paste thicker than for other small articles of pastry. Cut the vol au vent of the size of the dish in which it is to be sent up, and immediately after, put it into a plafond: brush it over with yolks of eggs, open it all round with the point of a knife, and put it into a very hot oven. Mind that puff- paste always requires the oven to be very hot.» If you are not careful to keep the oven shut, the vol aw vent will not rise properly. When it is well baked, and of a fine colour, -and you are certain that it is done through, take it out of the oven, remove the middle, which served as a cover, _ empty, and throw away the paste of the middle which is not baked, and lay the vol au vent cleanly on some paper to ~ a extract the butter. When you are ready to serve up, dish the vol au vent, and fill it with whatever you think proper. With regard to small articles of pastry, spread more puff- paste, and cut it with cutters into different shapes; if in- | ‘tended for entrées, brush the paste over with the yolk of — eggs, but do not glaze it with sugar. By glazing, is here meant, the sifting of fine pounded sugar over the pastry when baked and emptied, and using over it a red-hot sala~ mander, or else putting it into a very hot oven for the sugar £0 a and glaze. 356 | PASTRY FOR ENTREES. No. 1.—Vol au Vent. Vol au vent is to be made the same as puff-paste, only in this instance six turns and a half; cut the vol au vent acco ding to the shape of your dish, whether round, square, or oval; but it must be cut: doré as quick as possibie; then mark the opening with the point of your knife, and bake it in a hot oven; when done, open the cover, take out all the crumb, and put it on a clean sheet of paper to drain the butter till dinner time. No. 2.—Vol aw Vent for Sultane. THE same proceeding as above, only glaze this with sugar, _as it is to serve for a sweet dish. The sultane is some sugar spined in a mould to put over the aperture of the vol au vent, where you have put either apples or cream, or plumbs, or apricots, &c. &e. “ aa eh No. 3.—Petits Patés of all sorts, SPREAD some puff-paste as directed above, about ‘three- eighths of an inch thick; cut out twenty patties with a fluted eutter;rub a baking sheet over with a brush dipped in water, and put each of the patties on it at a distan ce from. each other; dor¢ them well, open a hole on the top of them: with a small. knife, then bake them quickly in the oven; when done, take them out, take off with dexterity the small bit of paste, which you must keep for the cover; '; empty the crumb, put them on a clean sheet of paper, with the small cover over them, and cover them also with paper till dinner time. ae For all other kinds of patties, it is the same process and 357 the same paste; the variety consisting oy in the size, and the flavour of the inside. No. 4.—Small Timballes for all sorts of Entrées, or for Darioles a ta Cream of every flavour. Bourrter eighteen dariole moulds well: spread some trim- mings of puff-paste on the dresser; cut with a cutter a — round of paste, large enough to fill the mould; have a bit of paste of the same form as the inside of the mould, but not so large; put the round piece over the latter, let it fall all | round, and then introduce this into the mould; press equally every where with your finger, to keep the paste of the same thickness; cut off all the paste that is above the rim, fill the mould with trimmings of paste, and put on a false cover, to prevent the border of the paste from taking a bad colour. A dozen is always sufficient, except when the dishes are very large; bake them of a good colour; when done, empty all the inside, and garnish with whatever you think proper. For patties au Jus, fill the inside with Godiveau, and bake them with false covers: when done, take off the cover, and open them with a knife, to let in a spoonful of Espagnole sauce; then cover them with small covers made of puff-paste, and serve up very hot. s No. 5.—Dariole ¢ la Cream. ‘ Trim the mould as above, and put the following mixture into it: a a large spoonful of very .dry flour; mix it well with an egg, five yolks, three spoonfuls of fine sugar, a small pinch of salt, eight mouldsful of cream, two or three my macaroons ground fine, and some lemon-peel or orange- . flower; put a small bit of butter into each mould, and fill — them with the above preparation; bake them on a baking dish, in a pretty hot oven. When done, sprinkle a little sugar over them, take them out of the wien and serve up very hot. Twelve or fifteen for a dish. 358 No. 6.—Ramequins & la Sefton. AFTER you have made the pastry fot the first and second course, take the remains of the puff-paste, handle it lightly, spread it out on the dresser, and sprinkle over it some rasped Parmesan cheese ; then fold the paste in three, spread it again, and sprinkle more cheese over it: give what we call two turns and a half, and sprinkle it each time with the cheese: cut about eighteen ramequins with a plain round cutter, and put them into the oven when you send up the second course; doré them the same as the petits patés, and serve very hot on a napkin. No. 7.—Common Ramequins. Pur into a small stew-pan a large glass of water, a quar- ter of a pound of fresh butter, and a little salt; let this boil; when the butter is melted, put to it two or three spoonfuls of fine dry sifted flour; stir with a wooden spoon till the paste does not stick to the stew-pan, then take it off the fire: break some eggs one after the other, and smell them, to see if they are sweet; mix them with the paste, and_ continue adding till you see the paste has acquired a good consistence; then put in a spoonful of rasped Parmesan - cheese, and a quarter of a pound of Swiss cheese cut in small dice; mix the whole gently, to avoid breaking the cheese, and dress the ramequins as you do the petits choux; _ doré as usual, and bake them in a moderate oven, but do not open the oven till they are nearly done, for that, will make them fall, and they never rise after. | 3 No. 8.—Cheesecakes. Pur some curd from the dairy into the mortar, with a bit of very fresh butter, a little salt, a whole egg, and two 359 yolks; rasp the peel of a lemon over some sugar, and put this also into the mortar; add four macaroons, and a bit of sugar ; pound the whole together, and when very fine, take it out Of the mortar; butter any quantity of tartlet moulds according to your company, spread some puff-paste over the dresser, cut with a round cutter as many pieces as you have moulds, and put a spoonful of the preparation to each; bake next in a pretty hot oven, and serve up very hot with pow- ‘dered sugar. Sometimes you may glaze them with the salamander. No. 9.—French Cheesecakes. : . _ Take some of the. petit choux paste made with water; mix with it some fromage a la cream that has been curdled — cold, and then proceed for the rest as above. : ee { PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS. c4 No. 1.—Gateaux a la Polonoise. ‘SprEap about half a pound of puff-paste, to the size of half a sheet of foolscap paper, throw some flour lightly over the dresser, to prevent its sticking to it, and cut directly the paste into squares of two inches and a half; dip the paste brush into the doruwre*, and touch the four corners of the paste and the middle; turn each corner up to the middle, press them together with one finger, and brush them lightly over again with the dorure; put them into a very hot oven. You may have twenty-four for an entremet; but they must | be small. When they are done, sift some pounded sugar over them, and glaze them very bright. While they are hot, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and gar- nish with apricot or any other marmalade. * Dorure, is an egg beaten up, yolk and white together. — ‘ CF, OBE Ta oe = 360 No. 2,—Puits d’ Amour garnished with Jam. SPREAD some puff-paste as directed above, a foot square, and three-eighths of an inch thick, Have a small cutter, fo} cut about two dozen ; brush a plafond over with a little dorure, and put those small pastries on it, pressing on each of them with your finger; then brush each of them over with the dorure; open the little mark in the centre with a knife, and bake them quickly in a hot oven. When done, glaze as above, then take out the crumb in the mid- dle, and put the pastries on a clean sheet of paper, to draw off the butter. Garnish with different coloured sweetmeats, as cherry and apricot jam. No. 3.—Petites Bouchées garnished. SPREAD some puff-paste as above, and cut it exactly in the same form, but smaller; but instead of dorure, use only the white of eggs lightly frothed. Pound some treble-refined sugar very coarse, and sift it. Spread the _ coarser part which remains in the sieve over the pastry, and bake it directly; but the oven must not be so hot as for the preceding article; push in the little hollow in the “align and garnish with raspberry jam. sich sii 4 sao womb garnished. SprEAD some paste as above, and cut it in the shape of lozenges; bake and glaze it as the paniehl articles, and garnish the same. 36l No. 5.— Feuillantines Pralinées. SPREAD and cut some puff-paste as above, and brush it~ over with white of egg; chop some Jordan almonds very fine, mix them with some sugar, and spread them over the paste; bake them in an oven not too.hot, and serve rae without sweetmeats. r a No. 6.—Gateaux & la Manon. SPREAD some very thin puff-paste on a buttered baking sheet; pour over it equally some apricot marmalade, put some dorure all round the edge, and lay over the sweatmeat another very thin paste, which you have rolled lightly round the rolling-pin ; then put some dorure all over equally, mark with a knife on the surface some lines crossing each other, 25 e e R >.< = ~w hm < to cut it when done into long squares thus | >>SS3S> the marks on the square are made with a knife as ornament, and to prevent bladders of air, Glaze as above, and sepa- rate the squares when cold. No. 7.—Croques en bouche. WHEN you have some remnants of paste, handle them together, and spread it ont with the rolling-pin very thin; — roll the paste over the rolling-pin, and lay it on a buttered. baking sheet; rub this over with white of egg. Spread some coarse sugar equally over it, mark it strongly through with some plain paste cutter, and bake it in a moderate oven. When done, take the shaped part to make the dish. You may cut them sometimes in plain rounds, and at other times hollow out the centre of the circle, making of ita strong ring called lorgnettes. 362 No. 8. —Feuillantines garnished. (Cur ‘some nillliaste into pieces of the length of a finger, wiflat about.a third of an inch thick. Butter a baking dish, and lay the pastes on it sideways, at a distance from each - other; put them into the oven without dorure. Observe, that when the sides of the paste have spread, and have ac- _ quired consistence, you must glaze with fine sugar, and — take them out when done. Then drain them of the butter, _ by putting them ona sheet of paper, and garnish lightly with sweetmeat. | | _ No. 9.—Petits Paniers, garnished with Jam. SPREAD some puff-paste on the dresser, about two-eighths of an inch thick, then cut with a cutter of this shape

: RS crelsy - at 7 : —* ~~ TT. fe! ee — ae Py et oe PAS “ks Oe ap a x Oe a a 376 Biscuits i in Ca USES» © (Maxe some small paper cases, and use the s same prepa- gation as above. Do not fill the cases too much, and put some coarse sugar over them before you put them into oe oven, which must not be too sbsisign | iy Biscuits a la Cuillidre, Take a silver spoon, and use the same paste as above. To dress Savoy biscuits, and biscuits a4 la Cuilliere, you must glaze them with fine sugar, and bake them ina very temperate oven. ay ae - PASTE FOR TARTS. SPREAD on the table two handfuls of flour, two spoon- fuls of pounded sugar, a pinch of salt, an ounce of butter, and a little water to melt the salt. Make a hole in the middle of the flour; break into it two whole eggs besidés the yolk of another; mix the paste well, and it will serve you for making tarts, tartlets, and for mounting croquantes. Increase the quantity of ingredients, according to the quan- tity of paste you may have occasion for. This paste is ge- nerally used to make the huge pieces; it can be made into all sorts of forms. — Créme Patissizre or Frangipane. Pur into a stew-pan. the yolks of six fresh eggs, two spoonfuls of fine dry flour, and mix them well with a wooden spoon; dilute this with a pint and a half of boiling cream, and a pinch of salt; turn this over the fire to do the paste. bee B07 When it begins to boil, take it off the fire to mix it. well; then put it on again for about twelve minutes. Melt a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter in a stew-pan, and when properly clarified, add it to the paste, and put the whole into a basin to cool. Next rasp upon a bit of sugar the peel of a lemon (put sugar according to your taste), and . add to it an ounce of bitter macaroons; if the paste is too thick put to it a spoonful of cream; if too thin, the yolks of two eggs. This cream must. take various flavours,.as va- nilla, orange, coffee, chocolate, &c. &c. but it is always the same cream. When you wish to make’a very fine tart- let, mix with this cream some fromage ala créme. Put some trimmings of puff-paste into buttered tartlet moulds, and a spoonful of the cream over the paste, and a little star of paste over the middle: bake them in a pretty sharp oven. Glaze with fine sugar, and use the salamander, that the star may be well glazed. ‘This sort of cream is used only for — tourtes, tartlets, and darioles. ee. ; Almond Paste. Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them in bolls ing water; take off the peel, and let them soak in ¢old water four hours; then pound them well in a mortar; add a little water, to prevent them from turning to oil; after they are very fine and quite in a paste, put in three-quarters of. a pound of sugar well pounded, and mix all together in the mortar. If your paste is quite fine, take it out of the mor- tar, put it into a stew-pan over a slow fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes white and dry; then put it again into the mortar, and mix with it a little melted gum tragacanth, that has been strained through a towel; take care to keep it covered, to prevent it from drying. You may give what scent you please, as lemon, vanilla, rose, orange, * 378 -&c. &c. If you use almond paste to make vases, or baskets, or tartlets, keep it always free from dust, spread it on a marble with a rolling-pin as thin as possible, and if you put ‘it into a mould, butter the mould lightly, and give the eee the form of it. Bake in a moderate oven. aa Tartlets of Almond Paste. . Burrer some tartlet moulds, and after having spread the paste on the dresser, cut it with a cutter to the size of the moulds; put a little sweatmeat in the middle, and a small rosette in the middle of that. Bake in a moderate oven. — Tartlets of Almond Paste with Strawberries. SPREAD some almond paste over the pastry table, and cut the paste with a fluted cutter of the same size as other tartlets; butter slightly the moulds, and put them into a moderate oven. When the paste is done almost white, take them out of the mould, and garnish with currant jelly, raspberry, or apricot jam, &c. &c. As the sweetmeats do - not go to the oven, they are always of a better colour and — taste. In summer time, rub some strawberries through a hair sieve, mix what you have rubbed through with a little sugar and isinglass; put the mixture into ice, and when frozen, put a little into each mould. Tartlets of Jam. TAKE some remnants of puff-paste, which spread on the table with the rolling-pin; have some tartlet moulds well buttered; cut some paste with the paste cutter, the same shape as the moulds, lay the paste in each of. them, and 379 put a tea-spoonful of apricot marmalade on the paste; then cover your mould with a little cover made as follows : _ Take some pdte a l’eau chaude (See page 351), have a little board engraved with three little covers of different orna- ments, have some coarse muslin, put to it a little fine pow- der, tie the muslin as if you were going to make a little bag of it, dust the board by shaking the little bag over it, to prevent the paste from sticking to it; lay some of the paste over an engraved part of the board, press with your thumb equally over the paste, then press with the flat side of your knife, and cut off the superfluity of the paste. Take the ‘paste out of the mould with a little damp paste, and moisten the border of the tartlet; stick one of these little covers on each of the tarflets, and bake them without any dorure; but when done, glaze them with ; a little sugar, and use the salamander. N.B.—You may also make some without covers, but those with covers look better, and the sweetmeats do not dry so much. Gauffres a la Flamande. Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of fine dry flour, and-six or seven eggs; first mix the eggs with the butter in a basin, puta little salt, then sift the flour over the eggs and butter, and add to it a spoonful of yeast. Next mix with the above a pint of double cream, work it well with your hand, and put the basin on the dresser till dinner time. Grease the Gauffre mould with bacon fat for the first only, as the others will come out easily without any additional grease. When you serve up, sprinkle some fine sugar over them. If you put the sugar earlier, it will make them soft. 7 | | 380 Gateau & la Madeleine. ‘ Tacs. ‘the same weight of flour, sugar, butter, and CEES in general, eight eggs are enough for an entremet ; put a little salt and the rasped peel of a lemon; work this paste oa little, till you have put all the butter into it. Melt a little butter in a stew-pan, and skim it well; pour a little into each mould, and then drain it, leaving, however, a drop at the bottom to facilitate the coming out of the Gateau. Sift some ashes over a baking sheet, put the small moulds into it, and then put paste into each of them, about half the depth, to give it room-to rise. Bake them in a mode- rate oven. When done, turn them out on a clean sheet of paper, and put them again into the oven for a few minutes. By changing the form of the mould you produce a dish of a different appearance; and by occasionally empty- — ing the inside with the point of a knife, and putting into the cavity either cream or sweetmeats, you make what is called gateaux & la Madeleine farcies. Genévoise Pasie. Tue same proceeding as above, only add half a glass of brandy, about a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded, and a few bitter ones, blanched of course: when you have given the flavour you chuse, as lemon, cédrat, or orange, spread the paste over a baking sheet, and level: it equally with your knife; then put it into the oven. When done, use a cutter of what shape you please (as a round, or a star, or any other ornamental form), and cut out as many — pieces as you can, and lay them on paper over a baking sheet, dry them in the oven, and let them be coloured on both sides. ‘This paste can make a variety of dishes, dif- fering both in-form and colour; but the taste is the same, as sugar always prevails, : 381 , ° White Gimbleties of Genévoise. j MaxeE the same paste as above, only when it is nearly done, take it out of the oven, and brush it over with white of egg, then after spreading over the egg some chopped almonds _ mixed with sugar, put it into the oven again. When done, ° take a round cutter, about two inches wide, and cut out as - many as you can from the baking sheet; then take a smaller cutter, and cut a piece out of the middle, so as to pro- duce a small wheel (this is what I calla gimbletie). Then dry them on paper in the oven, keeping them as white as possible. : Rose, or green Gimbleties of Genévoise. THE same as above, only dye the almonds with cochineal or green of spinach, after they have been blanched and ehopped, and dried in the hot closet. Use them to diversify the colour; vary also the shape occasionally. ¢ Fruit Tart, English manner. | & SPREAD some puff-paste over the table with a rolling~ — pin; cut a piece of the same size as the dish, and out of the _ trimmings cut some strips: brush the edge of the dish with dorure, and stick the strips on it; then put the fruit into the dish, with some sugar and a little water; roll the paste _ on. the rolling-pin, and lay it over the fruit. Before you put the paste on, brush the strips with some dorure, to make it stick. When you have trimmed the dish all round, spread some white of egg over the tart, and sift Dd < Lage eee s i Ea a ¥ Mg ge and. hall it over the ‘tart. pees it conate —— er ap cold. 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