fSetetetagit Baa locraterrs: a Satis tiny ith a ajgnatanit sty ‘iter ser ‘ Ae E555 ahs purthaes res reatit $ ab aha gi that “ et tastalis fr r 5 had 48 apres RAE AT Eteach NBN Maa igen ahaa Bain fader foe aLantibtne bes " ; aay GARR V EDD mek ath EL Tas oh te tens states et i 4 AE ama Lis SORRATHREA. 95 2 Penk say hee Mw ey CRIN BOM aE EB MATTE “ot phat 01 SARA IeS> QeRUNDOE otlnw ply” anEE Aten Amp imo HAS ITE: te se a atnennte: cat on ot «ARMM CAE ‘ yn cats (eentinesn ag rageotaetigty ‘Sasi itattensinal qt 22g MTN eon beeen MEN + lyayegwandsaesubabs ttn ee ymzme png ina vont pe ahah Pn he Lagi opener rort a vem, eI 7 mtg ly sng be Sep/Aagare Sc absesvengien oF ce orate sae tebe ta se MR RRS een} 20 ay ioe ih abt LE tte ONE ag, EA services 4 at tees epantrr cerns dig eps spear & , by serenese: Kis ee ay ly orglpin albus rnetiadhlde peetag aes rewriie a Weiter Pero Neer or f : oegisde “ x: LRMascn we isi desen Laat i a s pe see aie iF seri n hoe uN Ve 48s yy Soe ~ Wee cp THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC FOR P8A2; CONTAINING A CALENDAR OF THE MONTHS, ADORNED WITH CUTS; TABLES OF THE VARIOUS DISHES IN SEASON: WITH A Collection of Original and Choice Mectpes. BY BENSON E. HILL, Esa. ““ Chief Justice. There is not a hair on your face, but should have his effect of gravity. Falstaff. His effect of gravy, gravy, gravy 1"— Henry 4, Part 2, Act\, Scene 2, LONDON: HOW AND PARSONS, 132, FLEET STREET. omen 1842, et y. iar, Fa fy ee INTRODUCTION. - Inrropvuctions should precede the sitting down at table; therefore will I ‘present that stranger to many a hospitable and benevolent host and reader— Gratitude,—to those who conspired in giving my first Epicure’s Almanac a popularity and circulation so transcending aught anticipated by my worthy pub- lishers or myself, that they were induced to order a second work of similar design, but more com- pletely realising what it was to be called. | The idea of a Hint on Eating or Drinking for every day in the year, emanated not from me. I adopted it in my last culinary manual, with reluct- ance, knowing that a matter-of-fact judge would imagine me desirous of tying him down to subsist through the whole of one day on salad—of another, on punch. Some reviewers asserted that I had, with decorous BQ vi INTRODUCTION. taste, treated my subject in a sober, didactic way: others lauded me for having turned a Cookery-book into a Jest-book. Neither of these purposes were mine. I thought a light, colloquial strain was pre- ferable to old-fashioned formality. But, if not witty myself, I proved “ the cause of wit in others,” as a few of the notices, won by my little venture, will shew. It had suggested to its kind eulogists better jokes than I ever meant it to contain. This flattery, however, gave me a stir. I as- pired to deserve, in any fresh volume of the sort, such compliments as I had not, in its predecessor, tried to merit. But that hardly can, or ought to be done, in Receipts. There business-like clearness is the chief desideratum. Dressing a Dinner, and *“‘ Cooking up an Almanac,” are grievous, sometimes almost melting, employments. Yet, apart from the evidences of their power to fatigue, will, I hope, be found some Refreshments of Exhilarating character, some bon-bons of fun on Plates of comie pattern. The Graphic-puns, among many other new fea- tures, must enhance the amusement of my friends. Mr. Landells has realised every little notion I sug- gested for them, (save one), not only with strong a6 INTRODUCTION. Vin original humour, but with artistical ease and erace. His only failing leans to virtue’s side. He could con- ceive the chance of a stray Bunny’s entangling itself in a bed of esculents, with which its ruminations never revealed that it would one day be sent to table. Lost in a labyrinth of heads and stalks, such wande- rer might die of suffocation; but my gifted co- labourer’s benevolent mind imagined nothing so bar- barous as the Legend which I thought he might know, therefore did not relate to him. A Cornish woman, receiving the words ‘‘ Smo- thered in Onions” literally, secured a tame rabbit to a corner of her pantry, and continued covering it with the edible roots, till she had raised a cairn above its breathless corpse! : After all, I am glad that no picture of this ig- norant and wicked process polluted my pages. Soz-~ disant *‘ Comic”’ writers and artists should select subjects essentially, innocently mirthful; for, how- ever great the wit which extracts fun from sad or ghastly associations of ideas, such genius can only wound hearts that Aave suffered and may harden, to the woes of others, those as yet. untried by sorrows of their own. viii _ INTRODUCTION. When I graced my title-page by a quotation from Shakspeare, I was fully conscious of being as inferior to his sweet Sir John in humour as in size. We are apt to associate the image of one who loves good living, with a look that tells of his diurnally enjoying it. There are accidental, constitutional hypocrites; and I, like Ned Poins, might have re- velled with the said knight, night after night, till I had none dué white hairs on my face, nor any on my head, never, in weight, becoming a pound the liker to “‘ a man of his kidney.” Proper food, in certain temperaments, contri- butes to strength and high spirits, instead of fat; for which reason, Fellow Feeders! and not at all as taking my leave, I sincerely and emphatically bid you— FARE WELL! CONTENTS. —— Page CALENDAR AND TABLES FOR THE YEAR. : 2 Ranpom REMARKS Z ; * = : PME Ge ReEcIPES . : : . ; “ : » GF INDEX. Fe c : A é ; F «167 THE EPICURDS ALMANAC, PART THE FIRST. Calendar and Tables. JANUARY, XXXI. [1842. pe Last Quarter New Moon First Quarter Full Moon . MOON’S AGE. . 8rdday 8m. past 10 after. - . llth day 15m. past 4 after. . 19th day Om. past 9 after. . 26th day 50m. past 5 after. oS EEE aS ee or ec ce | | WWNNNNNNMNMNNMDE &S ke BS es bet et eS St Se MOO OTOURWNKHK OCOOONOSRWNK OU Os8H Ur wNd- SPRnMDASH SPR TASHA SRNODE SH SPOT SH SMD CIRCUMCISION. Second Sunday after Christmas e Epreu.— Tw. Day, Old Chr. D. CALENDAR. e Fire Insurance expires. Hirst Sunday after Epiphany. Plough Monday. Hilary Term begins. Cambridge Term begins. Oxford Term begins. CoNVERSION OF St. PAUL. Moon eclipsed. Duke of Sussex born 1776. Kine Cuarzes I. Martyred. Septuages ima Sunday. Seragesina Sunday. Hilary Term ends. Second Sunday after Spiphann. Old Twelfth Day. Sir W. Curtis, [Importer of Turtle, died 1829. Clock before Sun 11’ 21” Quin, Actor and Epicure, died 1766 MOON SUN| SUN] “pines Rises.| Sets. | and Sets. ee eR RR Oo Go Co Oo QO OO or J) On orNww co ee ee oO oO oo Ro) ~I ORL AR RR ooo en Or Woon o ST SST bo = ped fed fe mi ONT OUR OO OMIA GT WAaMwMMmHoB = 5 Oo 7 30/4 3010 31 7 28/4 32/11 54 1842.] _ JANUARY. 3 No meaner creatures, scan ’em all! By fire their food prepare, Man is the Cooking Animal, And need be nothing mair. A POTHEGMS, &c. A general invitation is no in- vitation atall. ‘‘ Don’t wait for, asking,’? might be interpreted, ‘ - 6 18/5 42) 5 38 lWF . : . ~, (6 165 44) 5 53 12)S| . A : : ‘ . |6 13/5 47] sets 13/5| #Ftfth Sunday in Went. 6 11/5 49) 7246 14M] . ; : : : : . (6 10/5 51] 8 59 15| T . (6 75 53/10 13 16/W ; 5 ; d . (6 5/5 55|11 27 17/T| Sr. Parricx’s Day. 6 3/5 57| morn. 18} F| Cambridge Term ends. 6 1/5 59} 0 41 19|S| Oxford Term ends. 6 06 1/1 48 S| Palm Sunday. 5 57/6 3) 2 43 21|/M| Spring com. Oh. 13m. morn. 5 55/6 5) 3 26 ig ey : ; ; - 9 53/6 7| 3 58 23;/Wi . ‘ : ‘ = Fi - (9 516. 91 4 22 24|T| Maunpy Tuurspay. 5 4916 11] 4 43 25| F| Goop Fripay. Lapy Day. 5 47/6 13} 5 1 26) S| P. George Cambridge born, 1819. |5 45/6 15) rises 27|S| Laster Sunday. 5 43/6 17] 8al19 28|M| Easter Monpay. 5 41/6 1919 45 29| T| Easter TuEspAY. 5 3916 21/11 7 30) W hs ; . 15 37/6 23] morn 3)| T - |5 35/6 25| 0 20 | | { 1842.] MARCH. 11 Now eating March-pane, and drinking March beer, Are worthy employments for reasoning humanity. Some say—‘ Dress no Hares, at this time of the year!’ They’re proverbially mad, and engender insanity. A POT HEGMS, &c. ‘¢ T hope my son,”’ said a lean and studious Prior, to the plump | | and rosy organist, who attended the establishment, ‘‘ I hope you live well.”? ‘‘1I think, holy fa- ther,’’ returned the gay musician, ‘¢ that I bear outward and visible signs of that inward and spiri- tual grace.’”? ‘When I said lived well,’’ cried the frowning superior, ‘‘ I meant fast, fast! ’’ ‘¢ Oh depend on it, your reve- rence, I am living as fast as ever Ican,’’ concluded the catechised, escaping. And, as he was well able to pay for his sins of omis- sion, and self dispensations, I never heard of his smooth, oily skin being scored by the lash. General Ford would say, at his own table, justly, and with appe- tizing Grace, ‘‘ Would that all good souls had as good a dinner, and all good dinners as good souls around them ! ”’ The churl who orders a sump- tuous meal at an hotel, for him- self alone, deserves to die of liver complaint. Beggar’s Dish. 12 SOUPS. White Lobster Mullagattawny Onion Ox Cheek Gravy Julienne Almond MARCH. FISH. JOINTS, &. Salt Cod Fish | Beef Twice Laid Boiled Soles Fore Quarter of Grass Lamb Oysters Fried! Loin of Mut- in Batter Lobster Fels Skate Carp Turbot Whiting John Dory Smelts Plaice Tench Eel Pie Prawns Perch in Wine Cray Fish ton Stewed Breast of Veal Lamb Dressed Irish Fa- shion Roast Tongue Roast Leg of Pork, stuf- fed Veal [1842. VEGETABLES. Brocoli Scotch Kale Spinach Young Turnips Celery Beet Root Leeks Fried Parsnips Endive Jerusalem Ar- tichokes Potatoes Beet Root | 1842.] MADE DISHES. Sweetbread Pie Pork Kabob Beefsteak naturel Minced Col- lops au Mainienon a Cutlets Marrow Dress- ed the Irish way Pork Cutlets a la Mire- pox POULTRY. MARCH. GAME. Larded Guinea | Wild Pigeons Fowl Turkey Duckling Poulet a la _ Malmaison Larks Green Goose Roast Leveret Wild Ducks Hare up to 15th Wild Rabbits 13 SWEETS. College Pud- ding Almond Cus- tard Orange Jelly Sweet Ome- lette Baked Codling Pudding Rice Cake Green Apricot Pudding Orange Chips Madelaine Cakes Rose Coloured Pancakes APRIL, XXX. MOON’S AGE. Last Quarter . 2ndday 30m. past 6 after. New Moon . . 10th day 31m. past 10 after. First Quarter . 18th day 32m. past 6 after. Full Moon . . 24th day 28m. past 11 after. MOON CALENDAR. SUN |SUN | Rises Rises. | Sets. | and Sets. 5 SS Monsieur Ude born, 1772. First Sunday after Faster. i © OO Old Lady Day.—Oxford & Cam- [bridge Terms begin. Look to your chimnies. Fire Insurance expires. =a ete ue ae He HB G9 Co Oo Oo bo lO Clock before Sun 0' 35” ‘ : 52)11 40 Easter Term begins. Mame. Main- 54] morn. (tenon died, 1719. 56 38 Third Sunday after Caster. = a Lord Byron, Chronicler of good din- 25 [ners, died, 1824. 1 2 3 4 5 6 ‘| 8 a 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Wary sHasZwndysHy ene 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 o Cape Ss Dax: Fourth Sunday after Laster. Sr. Marx.—Ds. of Glos. b. Sich " [appetite, died, 1831. Dr. Abernethy, celebrated for his —_—$ $$ $$$ ———————————— |) 1842.) APRIL. F’en with a forward Spring, and aids of art, Green geese and gooseberries may now be dear. Yet make a fool, goose, ‘‘ poisson’’ (do thy part !) E’en of thyself, and may’t out-last the year ! A POT HEGMS, &c. Byron had a horror of an- gling. Read the cheerful, cordial morality of Walton, and see why the lover of (Italian) fish women loathed such fisher-men. Great public dinners are usu- ie ally disappointments; of which eo, : it has been said, the fish and alf’s Head Farceée. soup are cold, ice and salads warm, and almost every thing - acid, except the vinegars. In a biography, immortal as veracious, an inconsiderable spot in Kent is said to have furnished one of its commonest inns with ducks and green peas before the middle of April once; the year should be memorable; no men- tionis made of exorbitant charges for these forced birds and preco- cious pulse. Some people affect a scornful condescending patronage of what they call ‘‘ French Prettinesses,”’ if they eat them at other men’s boards; in order that, when these friends dine with them, they may not be expected to repay in kind. Tipsey Cake. 15 16 APRIL. [1842. SOUPS. FISH. JOINTS. VEGETABLES. Vermicelli BroiledSalmon | Roast Fore-|Sea Kale quarter of Al Aurore. Stewed Carp Lamb Turnip Tops Scotch Barley | Tench and Eel| Ribs of Beef | Spinachin con- Broth Pie. sommé Fillet of Veal Queen’s Fa-| Soles Laver vorite Ham Smelts Jerusalem Ar- Mock Turtle Boiled Leg of} tichokes Trout Lamb and Ox-tail Spinach Asparagus Turbot Condé ie Stewed Knuc-| Brocoli Broiled Mack-| kle of Veal Oyster erel Leeks Mutton Crab Lettuce Fish Stew Chervil Cray. Fish Parsnips Herrings Potatoes Prawns Cresses . Shrimps Lobster 1842.] APRIL. UZ MADE DISHES. POULTRY. GAME. SWEETS. ‘Poached Eggs| White Fricas-|Stewed Wild/Spanish Cus- in Gravy ‘Pigeon Pie Irish Stew 'Sweetbreads en caisse Lambs’ Heads ‘Beef Olives Veal Collops see of Chick- en Green Goose Duckling Turkey Poults Pigeons Leveret after| Rice 20th Wild Rabbits tards Dump- ling Orange Mar- malade Eve’s Pudding Creams Citron Spiced Cake Spring or Rhu- barb Tart Custard Pud- ding Apricot Frit- ters Prune Tart 18 MAY, XXXI. [1842. MOON’S AGE. Last Quarter . Indday 46m. past 0 after. New Moon . . 10th day 38m. past 11 morn. First Quarter . 17th day 10m. past 0 after. Full Moon . . 24th day 39m. past 9 morn. M |W SUN|suN|MOON D;|D} ° CALENDAR. Rises. | Sets. aad Bet: he mjh. m.\Jhe m 1/$| Rogation Sunday. 4 37|7 23) 1m10 2|M [Sr. Poitre & Sr. James. |4 35/7 25) 1 32 3|T [bury exploded, 1813. |4 34/7 26) 1 49 4|)W) Humbug of Fasting Woman at Tet- |4 32|7 28) 2 5 5|T| Ascens.—Holy Thursday. 4 31/7 29} 2 17 6) F) . : “ : : : « |4 2917 Br? «32 7S|. ; ; ; ; 4 27|7 33] 2 46 8|\S| Sunday after Ascension, 4 26/7 34,3 0 9\|M| Easter Term ends. 4 24/7 36) 3 19 10;/T} . ; ; ; ; 4 22'7 38) sets 11|/W| Clock after Sun 3’ 53” 4 21/7 39) 9a 27 1a. : ; : ; . |4.19|7 41/10 31 13| F} Old May Day. 4 18/7 42/11 22 14|S| Oxford Term ends. 4 16\7 44/11 58 15/S| GAHit Sundap. 4 14|7 46] morn 16|M| Wuir Monpay. 4 13\7 47| 0 28 17|T| Wuir Tutspay. 4 11/7 49} 0 50 18}W| Emper WEEK. Oxford Term \4 10/7 50} 1 9 19|T [begins. |4 8/7 52) 1 26 20| F : : "4 : : . 4. AT Ss 42 215. : ; : : : . 4 617 5442 0 22/5] Trinity Sunday. Ca. Term div. |4 5/7 55) 2 20 23|M [m. Trinity Term begins. |4 3\7 57| 2 46 24|T | Q. Vicrorra born 1819. 4 1/7 59) rises 25|W ; : A : 4 08 0} 9a46 26) T |. ; : j d ? . (3 5918 110 33 27| F | Crown Prince of Han. born, 1819. |3 58/8 2/11 8 28;S| . ; ; ; F A . 3 5718 Bill 933 29|S| first Sunday after Trinity. 3 568 4/11 53 30} T [K. Cuaruss II. Restored. |3 55/8 5) morn , . ; ‘ . 13 55/8 5|/0 8 1842.) MAY. You May, beside the empty, polished grate, Sit till you’re fine and cross; then warm yourself Down at the kitchen fire, your cook to rate, And into circulation storm yourself. A POT HEGMS, &c. The daughter of a celebrated | lady being attacked with inflam- matory sore throat, a physician was consulted, but his dictum made subservient to the patient’s likings. Next day he found her worse, and desired to know what she had for dinner, after he last departed. The answer was, ‘¢ Veal cutlet.”’ ‘* Did I not enjoin, my lady, that Miss must live upon harmless slops awhile? Veal cutlet! the very wrongest thing you could have given her.’’ ‘* Wrongest,”’ laughed the mamma, ‘‘ Then I must tell you, Doctor, that nei- ther my girl nor I can live with- out wicked food.’’ I confess I see no wit in this; but, figura- tively, it is replete with the bravest truth. Slang will pollute even the whiteness of a tablecloth, ‘‘ and, like a worm, prey on its da- mask;’’ but there still are left '-some old-school fellows who would rather be asked to a din- ner than to ‘‘a feed’’ or ‘‘a spread.” py i ew) ln Pi eo iP - wae Mme yeh tad Wwe Un Hog’s Pudding. 19 d2 20 MAY. SOUPS. FISH. Almond Broiled Allice Gravy Collared Eels Condé Cod Sounds a la Tripe Turtle Boiled Salmon | Veal Lobster Turbot Vermicelli Soles Lorraine Mackerel Hessian Carp Herrings Lobsters for an entrée Prawns Cray Fish Crab Shrimps Trout Smelts Ribs of Lamb Brisket of Beef (1842. VEGETABLES. Brussels’ Sprouts New Potatoes in Cream Nettle Tops Spring Cab- bage Asparagus Jerusalem Ar- tichokes Carrots Lettuce Sea Kale Spinach New Turnips Kidney Beans Cauliflower Artichokes Parsnips Small Salad 1842.] MAY. 21 MADE DISHES.| POULTRY. GAME. |Lamb Pie Green Goose | Leveret Veal Cutlets | Chickens @ Ja| Wild Pigeons Neige Hashed Beef Rabbits Heart Ducklings Haunch of Ve- Stewed Ox-|Turkey Poults} nison(Buck) tails | Calf’s Liver Beef a Ja Hare Asparagus Omelette Broiled Bones SWEETS. Ground Rice Pudding English Pre- served Gin- ger Ipswich Pud- ding Cheese Cakes Raspberry Tourte Nag’s Head Cake Bread and Butter Pud- ding Boiled Cus- tards Black Currant’ Pudding Apple Puffs Snow Cream JUNE, XXX, MOON’S AGE. Last Quarter . Ist day 51m. past 6 morn. New Moon . . 8th day 14m. past 10 after. First Quarter . 15th day 52m. past 4 after. Full Moon . . 22nd day 22m. past 9 after. Last Quarter . 30th day 41m. past 11 after. MOON CALENDAR. SUN) SUN) «rises Rises. | Sets. |and Sets. [vez Monsieur Careme born, 1790. Second Sunday after Trinity. [K. of Han. b. 1771. Sr, Rib inac f Chivd Sunday after Trinity. Trinity Term ends. WN Test Dok WD eH Clock after Sun 0’ 2” [at Guildhall, 1814 Sovereigns entertained Battle of Waterloo 1815.—Allied Fourth Sunday after Crintty. Q. Vicrorra’s Accession. Q. Vicroria Proclaimed. Summer commences 9h. 22m. aft. Nat. Jonn Barptr.—Midsummer [Day Pttth Sundap after Trinity. George IV. died. Q. VicroriA CrowneEp, 1838. St. PErEr. SH BW nae SH ewan BwWwwwwwowmwwowwwwwwnwwwwwwnwwwwwws ae = se 1842. ] JUNE. 23 At Midsummer, right is the general plan To take every thing liquid, weak, cold, that you can ; But if frigid showers the year’s centre will strike, Vote it end, or beginning ; eat, drink, what you like! A POT HEGMS, &c. A celebrated writer on gas- tronomy, invited a high legal, political, and literary character, (of birth rendered illustrious by family genius and worth), to meet ‘¢a select few.’? The guest af- terwards said, ‘‘ The doctor’s dinner was a lie. Over scanty, ill done, ill assorted fare ; I met the landlord of a tavern, and one of my uncle’s discharged servants, or ex-officials. The host proved himself as much a gentlemen by his company, as a cook by his provisions.’’ A husband imploring his lady ee not to have constantly to dinner PS a silly old libertine, was answered, as if that reply ought to prove all sufficient, ‘‘ But, my love, he carves so nicely !”’ Abernethy said, that ‘ we should eat sparingly, and not drink with our meals.’’ ‘‘ Yet you do both, Doctor,’’ observed a friend. ‘‘ Z/ I’m driving about “Ss all day; then I’ve such a deuced Sie twist ; as to the washing down— would you have me choke? ”’ “5 Bie i ag Sounds. 24 SOUPS. Asparagus {| Green Pea } i Turtle 1 Vegetable f Queen’s Favo- rite | Onion Spring | White JUNE. FISH. Salmon Spitch-cock’d Eels. Soles Turbot Mackerel Lobster Herrings Carp Cray Fish Skate Crab Trout Smelts Shrimps Prawns Pickled mon Sal- JOINTS. Beef a la Na- ples Breast of Mut- ton and Green Peas Veal Lamb Cold Lamb and Salad (1842. VEGETABLES | French Beans Green Peas New Potatoes Sea Kale Cauliflower and Parma-_| san Spinach New Turnips Artichokes Parsnips Kidney Beans Lettuce Carrot Sougié, Endive Windsor Beans Summer Cab- bage Asparagus Cucumbers Lamb Salad | 1842.3 JUNE. 25 | a eee a ES || MADE DISHES: Hodge Podge Lamb Chops and Aspara- gus Sauce Lobster Salad Stewed cumber Poached Eggs in Gravy Asparagus Omelette Beef a la Mode Neilgherry Pi- lau POULTRY. Roast Ducks Chicken Green Goose Ducklings Cu-| Turkey Poults GAME. Leveret: Haunch of Ve- nison SWEETS. Gooseberry Cream Ami des En-' fans Strawberries a | la Francaise Savoy Biscuits Batter Pud- ding Diet Bread Castle Pud- dings WN CHOON OOP 69 DH SHER nT SH Easy et Tenth Sunday after Trinity. JULY, XXXL MOON’S AGE. New Moon . . 8thday I1m.past 7 morn. First Quarter .14thday 5m, past 10 after. Full Moon . . 22nd day 57m. past 10 morn. Last Quarter . 30th day 42m. past 2 after. CALENDAR. Sixth Sunday atter Trinity. Ald. Birch, elected Lord Mayor, [18ll Old Midsummer Day. Cam. Term ends. Sun eclipsed. Oxford Term ends. Sebenth Sunday after Trinity. a St. SwITHIN. Lighth Sunday after Trinity. 1821 Coronation Banquet of George IV. Clock before Sun 5’ 57” NN inth Sunday atter Trin ity. St. JAMES. Ds. of Cam. bo. Marshal Turenne, (whence Tu- [reen), killed 1675. Feast of Martha and Mary. PERE ERR RE BPR RRP HR OWWWWWWWWWWWWwW Ww OOS SUN|SUN Rises. | Sets. | and Sets. MOON Rises m 14/11 a 25 14/11 45 13} morn. 50 3 17 31 49 10 40 37 | JULY. Now to dress by Steam no art is; Ice, guite cool, becomes a wonder ; Dairies, brewings, pleasure-parties, Stand or sit in awe of thunder. A POT HEGMS, &c. Never rely on dishes that sate |) the palate, before you can eat enough of them to satisfy na- | ture. If it be true, that a good din- ner, vinously diluted, betrays a man’s real nature, many hus- bands, surly while sober, are Cow Heel. ‘* too tender e’en for tenderness to touch’’ when drunk; others even amiable till inebriated, then sss lose almost their identity. ig) he Tit-bits, or as some travelled scholars will write, ‘‘ Bon Bouche.”” A judicious father, seeing his little boy lay certain particularly tempting morsels on the side of his plate, asked ‘‘ why he did so, were they not good?”’ ‘¢ Oh, yes, Papa, they look the nicest, so I shall keep them till the Jast,’’ said the child. ‘* No, no, give them to the dog !’’ ob- served his parent, ‘‘ You must take what I set before you, as it comes—never eat what you don’t like, but no gloating, and longing for tit-bits.”” The fault was A Cradle Spit. thus crushed in the bud. = te 28 JULY. [1842. SOUPS. FISH. JOINTS. VEGETABLES. Ox-tail Stewed Stur- | Beef French Beans geon a la Maitre Green Pea Lamb ad’ Hotel Pike dressed Gravy in the Irish| Veal Cucumber fashion Asparagus Mutton Artichokes Turbot || Julienne Cauliflowers Haddock Almond Asparagus Flounders Al’ Aurore Windsor Beans Plaice Vermicelli Cabbage Mullet Cabbage Carrots Eels Green Peas Carp Parsnips Mackerell Spinach Skate Turnips Fish Stew Lettuce Crab Endive Salmon Cut- lets Small Salad Red Cabbage Potato Fritters Sia += 1842.1 JULY. — 29 MADE DISHES. Hashed Beef POULTRY. Roast Ducks GAME. Golden Plover Minced Fowl} Boiled Chicken | Wheatear and Cucum- ber Eggs @ Tripe BroiledSheep’s Kidneys Hashed Veni- son Beuf Royale Casserole of , Roast Mut- ton. Green Goose la| Roast Fowl Haunch of Ve- nison Wild Pigeons Turkey Poults Ducklings Rabbits Stewed Shoul- der of Veni- son Leveret SWEETS. Strawberry Cream Cherry Jelly Greengage Tart Carrot Pud-|| ding Whipt Cream Ice a la Na- raskin Shrewsbury Cakes Pleasure Party Pie 30 em mf | SH 2Wn de SH ends SH EMOTE SHE RoeHe SHE AUGUST, XXXI. [1842. MOON’S AGE. New Moon . . 6th day 45m. past 2 after. First Quarter . 13th day 22m. past 5 morn. Full Moon . . 2\st day 14m. past 2 morn. Last Quarter . 29th day 29m. past 3 morn. CALENDAR. Lammas Day. [oreat Oyster eater, died 1837. Ds. of St. Albans (late H. Mellon), Blebenth Sunday after Crintty. BDO OST Oe HOS DADA DA ON Ss sr se se sr sa a ar sar sr Sr Se ST — oo = — oe msg Dog Days end. Grouse shooting begins. Q. Adelaide born. Cwelfth Sunday after Crintty. PERO WWWWWONNNNNNES Hm bo © ONT Ot Duchess of Kent borne OMA rman R RAR RPK ERR EKR EPR RRR RKP RSE 46 : : . : ‘ 48 Clock before Sun 3’ 27” | 50 Black Cock shooting begins. 5] Thirteenth Sunday after Trinity. eS ees St. BARTHOLOMEW. 59 : ; ; : : , 1 Prince ALBERT born, 1819. : HF ourteenth Sunday after Trinity. : 12 SUN|SUN|MOON Rises Rises.| Sets. | and Sets. 51/11 =O 6 48] morn. 1842.] AUGUST. There is wealth on the wall; we are now worth a plumb ; Yet let not the fruits of high training absorb us ! Magnum Bonum may cause a great evil to come, There once was a bugbear called—Cholera Morbus ! 31 A POT HEGMS, &c. A late celebrated female, of French descent, offering to help | alady from some Gallic plat, re- prey oa RES ceived this check: ‘‘ Pray don’t, I am sure it would disagree with me.’’ The due retort, rather energetic than elegant, must be omitted; but surely these dis- agreements are best settled be- | tween patient and physician. Other hearers cannot easily con- vert them into ‘ Peristaltic Per- | suaders,’’ or whets to the palate, though they may set the teeth on edge. A cook, tenacious of fame sans tache, gave his master warning, because he had been told, by those who waited at table, that a noble | lord added salé¢ to the soup. vaunted ‘a Captain B | sauce which should make a man relish his grandmother,’’ but, though I saw him apply it once | to some Grouse, high as their | native hills, though of less pure air, I know that a girl was cured of a violent love fit, by seeing her Romeo partake it. Stilt-on. rT) 32 SOUPS. | Turtle Condé Asparagus Ox Cheek | Lorraine Almond ‘Queen’s’ Fa- vourite Green Pea ‘Knuckle Veal of AUGUST. FISH. Herrings Skate Mackerell Carp Eels Mullet Plaice Flounders Haddock Turbot Pike Sturgeon Boiled MHer- rings Cod after 20th Trout JOINTS. (1842. VEGETABLES. Aitch Bone of! Green Peas Beef Roast’ Leg Welsh Mut- ton Grenadin of Veal Lamb up to 15th French Beans a la Fran- gaise Vegetable Marrow Artichokes Windsor Beans Cabbage Carrots Spinach Cauliflower Turnips Endive Cucumber Fresh Shalots Lettuce New Onions Mashed Pota- toes Parsnips Red Cabbage Tomatoes 1842,] AUGUST. MADE DISHES. Bologna Sau- sage Salad Stewed Mush- rooms Rabbits as Drest at Ve- nice Patrician Bub- ble Squeak and Savoury Bris- ket of Beef POULTRY, &c. Chicken Ducks Roasting Pig Goose GAME. Grouse after 12th Green Goose Golden Plover Wheatear Ragout of Pi- geons Leveret Moor Game after 12th 33 SWEETS. Créme riale Impe- Stewed Nor- mandy Pip- pins Brown Bread Ice Beignet de Pommes Preserved. Gherkins Marmalade of Quinces Apple Pie Real Cabinet Pudding Sugared Pears Whipt Cream SEPTEMBER, XXX. MOON’S AGE. New Moon . . 4th 15m. day past 10 after. First Quarter . 11th 58m. day past 3 after. Full Moon . . 19th 34m. day past 6 after. Last Quarter . 27th 5m. day past 3 after. sun|sun|MOON | Rises Rises, | Sets. |and Sets. CALENDAR. Partridge shooting begins. Fire of London, 1666, from Pie [Corner to Pudding Lane. HF ifteenth Sunday after Crintty. Sixteenth Sunday after Trinity. Clock after Gua 4’ 46” Louis XVIII. died, 1824. Sebenteenth Sunday afterCrinity. [Equal day and night. Risen Werx. ; St. MatrHew. Autumn commences 1lh. 26m. Zighteenth Sunday after Trinity. e - F S Es M ik a T F Ss > M T W T F Ss > M T W T F 4\S > M T W T F DDD DD DH OW Ow Or Ot Or Gt Or Or OF OF OF OF Or Or Ot Or Or Or Gr Or cn Or Ot Or > St. MicHaEu’s Day. | 1842.] SEPTEMBER. Girls, and one blind old Mr. Milton, speak Of ‘‘ military Angels !’’ Such are found Very nice bipeds, with brains rather. weak ; Therefore should Geese at Michaelmas abound. A POT HEGMS, &c. Melons and thistles should have one motto—‘‘ Rugged but Honied.’’ “¢ Of course, my husband and — I,’’ said a Birmingham Parve- nue, ‘‘ could not dine even ¢éte- a-téte, without our fish.’? They therefore had daily before them, and no better when they received friends, what dwellers by the sea call ‘‘ not alive, but like to live,”’ or what Londoners term ‘‘ Lum- ber-court second hand.’’ Query, was this any sign of true fru- gality? One of the most universal im- pulses of children is that of “ making treats,’’ for their com- panions. The great and good George Crabbe, when dying, said, ‘‘you must give an entertain- ment !’’ Different viands appropriately induce certain moods of mind. Authors haveinspired themselves to boldness by beef, composed Pastorals on lamb, Odes to Hope on the wings of a lark, to Inno- cence on chicken broth, Love on pigeon pie, and Horror on raw pork. . 2 are chert Re Ns 1h fay / pp | ‘) h y J y , SI) i | \ : | HAN Hi i \ } | I /, |i \—1} HH NY f AN \vaam 4h) a ! K/ ih WEIN Y | } WHAT WA AWWA \ | WN y i\ iy \ y \ ‘ ING \' NY yi (i]s INANE AWAY Hi Wi We \ i NY , how N A \\) Wt A A ily Yyy lf NY iy if \ Y YL fe \ - X/ Wy yy \\ An N \Wi Wf \\ AEA D \V y | y 2 i at) AS), we i} ; > e's), Sy SSS F (it Mi \ «: = ap ——. “SS Tee A ts On a Strawberries. 36 SEPTEMBER. SOUPS. {| Onion | Carrot | Julienne 1| Gravy Vermicelli | Hessian | Oyster {| Almond FISH. JOINTS. [1842. VEGETABLES, Savoury Had-| Roast Leg of| Potatoes & Ja dock Mutton Herrings Aitch Bone of Beef Sturgeon ‘| Breast of Veal Pike and Onion Sauce Flounders Plaice Mullet Eels Carp Skate Cod Maitre d "Hotel Green Peas Cucumbers French Beans Carrots Cauliflowers Artichokes Leeks Celery Endive Red Cabbage Lettuce Jerusalem Ar- tichokes Tomatoes Fresh Mush- rooms 1842.] MADE DISHES. Hashed Mut- ton and To- matoes | Fricandeau_ of | Marinade Veal Rabbit Pie Maccaroni Stewed Giblets Cold _ Roast Beef Fricas- seed Neilghery Pi- lau SEPTEMBER. 37 POULTRY. GAME. SWEETS. Roast Goose | Partridges Vanilla Cream Boiled Duck | Wild Duck Grape Jelly of | Widgeon Preserved Bar- Chicken berries Teal Turkey Damson Hare Cheese Wild Rabbit | PaindePomme Leveret Marrow Pud- ding Grouse Lemon Sponge Black-Cock Cake Moor Game_ | Blane Mange Peaches in Su- gar Northumber- land Pud- ding OCTOBER, XXXI. MOON’S AGE. New Moon . . 4th day 24m. past 6 morn. First Quarter . 11th day 41m. past 6 morn. Full Moon . . 19th day 12m. past 11 morn. Last Quarter . 27th day 41m. past 0 morn. MOON | CALENDAR. ibis eekin ja .| Sets. jand Sets. Bers jus m.| h. Pheasant shooting commences. Nineteenth Sunday after Trinity. Parr died, 1633, aged 152. Cwhentieth Sunday after Trinity. Oxford & Cam. Terms begin. Old Michaelmas Day. Discovery of America, 1492. Tur- [tle first ate. ] 2 3 4 | 5 6 7 8 2 10 — — fd peed fed fed ed oF & OO PO Fire Insurances expire. Chventp-tirst Sunday atten Gri in, — “I Sr. Cues Dean Swift died, 1745. 2S SRA SSeS ear ee eo oe 0) Battle of Trafalgar, 1805 ; bo bo bo Wr — Yt TD bey Twenty-second Sunday after fr. do to OTS Hs Clock after Sun 15’ 53” bo “I | St. Simon AND St. JupDE. Tiventy- third Sunday after Cr in, M! Hallow Even. i a ee He HH OT Ot Ot Or OF OF Or Or OF OF OF OF OF OF OF OF Ot OV Or Or OT OF OT OF OT > 1842.] OCTOBER. ‘* Jockey of Norfolk !’’ send your Turkey now! ‘Tender and young is, by its likes, preferred ; Worth’s judged from weight, by those to gold who bow; Taste ‘‘ spurns the bigger and the baser ’’ bird. A POT HEGMS, &c. When a blooming young lady stipulates, mincingly, at dinner, for ‘‘the tiniest atom, merest morsel, and mite of a drop,’’ be sure that she ate and drank na- turally, at lunch. It is a tasteless self-delusion to buy third-rate meat, and strive to disguisé it by stewing down with vegetables and spices. One prime beef-steak au naturel, is worth a cart-load of kick-shaws, or curried ‘‘ Keg-meg.”’ Lord L yan admirable din- ner-giver, was consequently punc- tual, and used to say he ‘‘ might wait ten minutes for the king, but not five for the heir appa- os rent,” Both for Poaching. A French teacher used to be in agonies at seeing English girls eat lightly done meat, with its ie natural juice; though they had Brann NZ nothing else all day, save bread, Ve V4, butter, cheese, and ale. She, | after her literal breakfast, en- joyed her dejeunée cutlet and wine, picking dry dainties almost every hour. 40 OCTOBER. [1842. SOUPS, &c. FISH. JOINTS. VEGETABLES. White Potatoe|Creamed Cod | Haunch of | Brocoli Mutton Mutton Broth | John Dory Bristol Fa-|Winter Spi- shion nach }, Mullagattawny | Smelts Roast Rump of| Parsnips Game Brill Beef Jerusalem Ar- White Tench Boiled Leg of! tichokes Pork Giblet Carp Red Cabbage Mutton Ham Stewed Ox-tail Salmon Trout Boiled Round | Celery Hare Barbel of Beef and Suet Dump-| Endive Milk Scalloped Oys-| lings ters Carrots Ant- A la Meg Mer- Boiled neck of| werp Fashion rilies Haddock Venison dressed as} Leeks Lobster Mutton Potatoes Crab Beet Root Prawns Turnips Huitres au Ci- tron. Lettuce 1842.] OCTOBER. 41 MADE DISHES.| POULTRY. GAME, &c. SWEETS. Giblet Pie Capon Pheasant Italian Cream Curry Turkey Black-Cock Currant and Apple Pud- Fillet of Beef} Duck Grouse ding Neapolitan Fashion Chicken Wild Duck Peaches in Brandy Mutton Pie a| Goose Snipe la Perigord Stewed Pears Broiled Par- Partridge Pie tridges Cranberry Tart | Savoury Ome- Widgeon Lemon Cheese lette Cakes Rabbit Zwiebel Fleisch Tipsey Cake | Teal Apple Jell Hare ts | Sago and Wine Haunch of Doe Venison Sugared Ches- nuts Caledonian Short-bread NOVEMBER, XXX. MOON’S AGE. New Moon . . 2ndday 8m. past 4 after. First Quarter . 10th day 15m. past 1 morn. Full Moon . . 18th day 29m. past 3 morn. Last Quarter . 25th day 59m. past 8 morn. MOON CALENDAR. SUN|SUN| "Rises Rises.| Sets |and Sets. loz m.jh. m.\ he m. 11/4 5m 24 13/4 sets 15/4 17/4 18/4 20/4 22/4 23/4 25/4 27\4 29/4 30/4 32/4 33/4 35/4 36/4 37/4 39)4 41/4 ALL SAINTS. Michaelmas Term begins. Prs. Sophia born. William IIT. landed. GUNPOWDER Puort. Tlhenty-fourth Sunday after Trin. Tweed Rod-fishing closes. [Lord Mayor’s Day DvuKsE oF CorNnwALL born, 1841. SS On Oe OOD = HSH ePn ty SH ewnaasy St Ma trint Cambridge Term div. m. CTwenty-ffth Sunday after Trin. Clogk after Sin 15’ ules : Lord Sefton died, 1838. Cwenty-stxth Sunday after Crin. Prs. Roya born, 1840. Sir John Hill, author of Mrs.Glasse’s [Cookery, died 1775. Michal Torn onde. Advent Sunday, Cardinal Wolsey died, 1530. h. 7 i 7 7 7 ‘5 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 : 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 : 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 oo Neopees s Dae ac omen ee ee 1842.1 NOVEMBER. To aid our city’s civil dignities Now panting pigeons pair off into pies ; Cooks beneath cauldrons stir the fire with zest, _As Goldsmith says, ‘‘ to warm the Turtle’s nest.’’ A POT HEGMS, &c. Four unaffected friends, two ladies, two gentlemen, had passed | a winter’s evening together ; the hostess rang for the tray, it was brought, with merely some cold beef, oysters, and appliances. Yet Massa Warner, the black footman, perhaps in hopes of improving himself by the con- versation of his superiors, occu- pied about twenty minutes in ar- ranging these articles on a side- table; till his mistress, her patience exhausted, laughed forth, ‘¢ Look at him! he’s acting the Proverb of ‘ Great cry and little wool.’ ’’ The word wool so ap- plied had a ludicrous effect. The Duke of Wellington lives but too sparingly. One simple, yet sustaining article, however, almostinvariably accompanies his | lonely meals—plain boiled rice. “¢ Doctor says,’’ cried a mo- ther to her delicate girl, ‘‘ that you must take a new-laid egg | with your breakfast every morn- ing; so I’ve just ordered a do- zen, all fresh to-day, and hop ' they will do you good.” | Wants Stuffing. 43 44 SOUPS. Mock Turtle Vegetable Gravy Mutton Broth Lorraine Hessian Winter Pea Vermicelli i Clermont NOVEMBER. FISH. JOINTS. Stewed Trout | Broiled Blade Bone of Veal Cod and Oys- ter Sauce Corned Shoulder of Barbel Mutton Baked Salmon} Stewed Rump Trout of Beef Carp Pickled Pork Brill Sirloin of Beef Smelts in Jelly | Veal John Dory House Lamb after 25th Stewed Oys- ters 1842. VEGETABLES. Scotch Kale Parsnips Stewed Winter Spinach Leeks Celery Endive Potatoes Peas Pudding Brocoli 1842.] ‘MADE DISHES. see of Rab- bits Pie Beefsteak Pud- ding ‘Calf’s = Liver and Bacon ‘Mutton Cut- lets Mince Veal Yorkshire Pudding POULTRY. Brown Fricas- | Capon Braised Goose Venison Pasty | Turkey Veal and Ham} Duck NOVEMBER. 45 | GAME. Partridges a Ja| Baked Apple | Perigaux Wild Duck Mallard Woodcock Grouse Phedsant Partridge Black-Cock Hare Widgeon Teal Roast Rabbit Roast Larks Snipe SWEETS. Pudding Creams Orange Pud- | ding Snow Pan- cakes Dried Cher- ries Sally Lun Cake : Ruby Jelly Petticoat Tails - tf qr we | 46 DECEMBER, XXXI. [1842. MOON’S AGE. New Moon 2nd day 15m. past 4 morn. First Quarter . 9th day 24m. past 10 after. Full Moon . . 17th day 46m. past 6 after. Last Quarter . 24th day 45m. past 4 after. New Moon . . 3lst day 2m. past 7 after. mM| Ww suUN|sUN| MOON DID CALENDAR. Rises.| Sets. ee h. mjh. mj)h. —m 1/T [1135. |7 57/4 3) 7m11 2|F| Henry I. died of eating Lampreys, |7 58/4 2) sets 3}S| . 7 b : A . 7 5914 1} 4a49 4|S) Second Sunday in Adbent. D.or [8 04 O| 6 O 5|M| [Cornwatt created Prince or [8 0/4 0) 7 13 6) T [Wates, 1841. [8 1/3 59) 8 25 7|\Wi . . A : : . (8 2/3 58/9. 37 8)T'| Clock before Sun 7’ 56” 8 2/3 58/10 44 ONG : 5 K 7 : .. (8 BIS STA biyoe fF 10;S| . : : ; : : . {8 4/3 56) morn. | 11/5) Chad Sunday in Abhent. Ald. 8 4/3 56, 0 59 _12|M) [Birch, Literary Pastry-cook, died, |8 5/3 55) 2 8 Lai [1841. |8 5/3 55) 3) 17 14|W| Emper WEEK. 8 513 55) 4 29 15) T| Isaak Walton died, 1757. 8 6/3 54/5 40 16|F | Cambridge Term ends. 8 6/3 54 6 49 17|S| Oxford Term ends. 8 7|3 53] rises 18)/S| AFourth Sunday in Abent, 8 73 53) 4.a39 19|M| . : ; : ; : 8 7/3 53) 5 55 4.0 ie We Sis : ‘ : ; : Br fis Daley eile 21/W| St. THoomas.—Shortest day. 8 7/3 53) 8 41 22|T| Winter com. 4h. 55m. mo. 8 VIS 5310 0 4 3) F 8 73 \O3|Pb 25 Ne F 3 3 : 8 7/3 53] morn. 25|S| Chrisinas Day. 8 Fie B3p.0) 47 26|M| St. SrePuen. 8 6/3 54, 2 10 27|T| Sv. Joun. 8 6/3 54] 3 33 28/W| INNOCENTS. 8 6/3 54) 4 54 | 29) T 8 613 54/6 6) 30) F 8 cabS. 55.7 18 8 : 8 1842.] DECEMBER. Four thousand miles from Home, a war-worn wight Could not this one most Christmas plaint control ; ‘¢ Visions of roast-beef, spare my aching sight ! Ye rich plum-puddings, crowd not on my soul !”’ | A POT HEGMS, &c. A broken parental heart robbed potted Lampreys of their own, as killing our first Harry. Surely a father, incessantly thinking on a drowned son, could hardly peril his life by eating too much jish. Your over-rated charlatan, proud of his prized melancholy, looks indifferent to his food, and above the business of eating; but will take as great a quantity, ' and often of more varied viands, than those who fear not to grow fat by laughing. Then, if aught served offend the cynic’s taste, his fury betrays that he cares as much for his creature comforts, as do those who own to love of revel though they can ‘‘ Rough it.7? Charitable housewives can cheaply feed the hungry from their superfluity, though ‘‘ the quality of soup’’ differs from that of ‘‘ Mercy,’’ which ‘‘ is no¢ strained.”’ Old, perhaps, but well worthy of repetition is the aphorism— REMEMBER, WE eat THAT WE MAY live: NOT LIVE THAT WE MAY eat! Curries. 47 48 DECEMBER. cre | ehios SOUPS. Winter Pea Pork Broth | Giblet Oyster | Hare j Game | Ox Cheek | Mullagattawny Soup and Bouilli FISH. Corned Cod Stewed Eels Turbot Gurnet Carp Soles John Dories Sturgeon Sprats @ la An- chovies Oysters JOINTS. VEGETABLES. Roast Head Pig’s | Brocoli Potatoes Red Round of Beef Parsnips Mutton Jerusalem Ar- tichokes Veal Scotch Kale Chine of Pork Leeks Roast Leg of House Lamb | Celery Sirloin of Beef} Endive Beet Root Winter Spi- nach Potatoe Souf- flé 1842.] MADE DISHES. Hashed Wild Duck Jugged Hare White Fricas- see of Rab- bits Lamb’s Fry Salmi of Phea- sants Calf’s Head Pie Omelette Souf- flé Curry Turkey Giblets Boiled Turkey Innocent Goose DECEMBER. 49 GAME. SWEETS. Pheasant Apple Fritters Woodcock Frangipane Snipe Vermicelli Pudding Wild Duck Plum Porridge Teal Mince Pies Widgeon Plum Pudding Wild Rabbit Meg Dod’s | Hare Wassail Bowl Partridge Italian Cakes Edinburgh Diet Cake Cocoa Nut) Cream THE HPICURH’S ALMANAC, PART THE SECOND. RMandonr WMemarks. jo As my motto avows that I have a greater zest for cheerful feeding than for serious writing, I shall, in this Course of the humble little Entertainment which I can place before my ever-indulgent patrons, study variety rather than method. A scrap-dinner is not inevitably a bad one; and should an entire animal, however small, be served, as a make-out, I hope he will not look as if lugged in. Thus having apologised to the Organ of Order, I shall proceed with my versatile carve-work of what used to be called “ a Chow-Chow set” of dishes; which word reminds me of the British tar, in a French prison, who fancied that he founded a pun on an intelligible pro- nunciation of his captor’s “ lingo,” by singing, while he chopped up red cabbage to boil down with his allowance of lean meat, ‘* Chip chow, cherry-chow!”’ G 52 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, If my Hodge-podgery should tempt some Critic to assert that my brains are going to pot, I must take comfort in the fate of our popular sporting writers, whose wits are decidedly gone to the dogs, and hosts of admirers after them. There has long existed, I believe, in three or four Tongues, a rather clever but misapplied Brace of lines, to this effect :— ‘¢ Tu, qui que tu sois, vois ici ton maitre ! Tl l’est, il le fut, ou il le doit étre.”’ Which some render thus :— “* Whoe’er thou art, thy Master see ! He is, he was, or he will be.”’ More thorough-paced bigots translate it :— ‘¢ Here, whosoe’er thou art, thy Master know ! He was, or is, or should, and must be so.’’ A Couplet of this order is usually Carved on the pe- destal of a figure representing a very much Under-dressed boy, with implements of Butchery at his side ; Wings, which might be easily disjointed from the back of the biped ; and, sometimes a Garnish of Vegetables about the Head. In one hand he holds a torch, or else a Spirit- lamp; with the other he suspends above this a half- Melted Butter-fly, which, were there any reality in such shows, were sure, on the side next the Fire, to be soon over-done. But, ‘¢ All the nonsense of the stone ideal,’’ as the Surfeited-on-hot-cockles justly says, is forgotten in the presence of animal, substantial truth. Com- RANDOM REMARKS. 53 paratively few persons know the evolutions of this Roasting Jack ; hundreds would never have dreamt of such a thing, had they not read, heard of, and seen, its (or his) influence on others. Few are sufficiently stu- pid ever to permit his robbing them of a dinner. Physically, I suppose, we must all have Hearts; but some men are rarely reminded of this fact, even by “a slight pulsation on the left side:” yet try your lover or your stoic by a delay of his meals, and he must grumble. Oh, for a preparation of the Human Stomach ! such as that on which the Oxford Professor of Anatomy lec- tured, before the Venable Lord Mayor, Aldermen, their dames, daughters, and the “ Recording Angel,’’—Chap- lain Dillon! Shall the erudite surgeon be accused of a satiric design, for benevolently demonstrating how many quarts of Turtle might be swallowed, without causing instant death to civic dignitaries? No! Pleasing was the re-assurance that an Englishman may bear much for the good of the Constitution ! Oh, for a model, in enduring material, of that interest- ing receptacle! There would I inscribe the lately-cited distich ; there it were universally appropriate; yet I should venture to substitute the word “ Monarch” for “‘ Master;” though our “noble coz, King” Stom’, be imperious, capricious, and dotes on being flattered, no matter at what expense, These venial eccentricities may contrast it with all other Sovereigns now alive ; but, if history wrong not the dead, there were amongst the Crowned some “ of unbounded stomach,” and even ‘“¢ maw detestable.” Those who give directions for making wholesome 54 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, food additionally palatable are not to be cengured for the faults or pains of such eaters as, by voluntary ex- cess, convert blessings into evils. Few dainties might prove deceitful were they moderately partaken. A man must know, before he goes to a great dinner, whether or not he is addicted to over-indulge the appetite given him by Nature, and what effects he has felt from former tampering pamperings. It must be wise to consider diligently what is before him ; but, in modern Europe, to betray, by his looks, that noble occupation for a re- sponsible mind, might cause him to be suspected of egotistic fastidiousness ; for what is before him being before so many other human beings, may be trusted with impunity, (save in extreme, unexpected, uninten- tional Salt-hill cases), unless, I say, the diner-out, with open eyes, will take too much of too many contrasted dishes. Men rarely allow this to become a habit ; be- cause it is a sin of which we are all sure soon to repent. As a frequent practice it may shorten life, without our thinking what we do; but, with due deference to the Sagest of men and kings, his bidding his own son, “ put a knife to his throat,” vather than yield to the tempt- ations that might beset him, “ when he sat to eat with a ruler,” seems to me wn peu trop fort; although, of course, it only meant that the princely guest ought, in- visibly, if possible, to enforce his own forbearance by an admonitory threatening gesture, emblematical of glut- tony’s fatal results; just to remind himself that his royal father magnanimously professed to prefer “ a dry morsel,” and “ a dinner of herbs,” to the “ riotous eat- ing of flesh,” “ wine-bibbing,” “ raging strong drink,” and ‘¢ oil,” RANDOM REMARKS. 55 I have certainly seen “Gentlemen” and “ Ladies,” too, put knives to their throats, inside, liking the perhaps salutary oxide of steel better than the legi- timate use of a four-pronged fork. I object to this from no efiquettish squeamishness, but in humanity, and self-pitying fear; for I always expect that they will incur some sanguinary, mouth-widening accident, inimical to the gustatory enjoyment of themselves and others. I could name more than one “ Select Seminary,” or “‘ Winishing Establishment, for a limited number of Young Ladies,” in the most aristocratic environs of London, whither “every pupil is expected to bring her silver fork;” yet with this she has to eat her “ Im- pediment,” vulgarly, “ Stick-jaw Pudding,” before she sees her small portion of not too dainty meat ! Five and twenty tight-laced Girls, in the midst of their teens, must dress daily so to be robbed of hearty appetite, by Governess’ economy; and Parents pay hundreds per annum to have their daughters ¢hus ini- tiated into the proprieties of “good men’s boards.” So much for vanity and misery! _A learned friend of mine banteringly called my ill opinion of boiled mackerel “‘ Heresy.” A heretic may be no bad judge of how fish are best cooked, (vide Byron’s Beppo.) Let all eat to please themselves. I once knew a wealthy matron who hung these phospho- rescent dainties, gamewise, for some days, even in genial Spring, to “give them a flavour.” To her a preference for insipid freshness was heterodox. In matters of taste may every one follow his nose! but enjoy only with the congenial feeders such high treats as might offend the G2 56 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, olfactories of those who participate not in the flavour- seeker’s predilection. It would now be difficult to ascertain whether some of the celebrated names allied with umquhile culinary glories were those of real personages, or merely assumed by such. When we read of “ Hare dressed Wiggy’s way,’ we suspect the latter to have been the case ; even when said Wiggy drest “ Hels,” we may back our sus- picion of waggery by a remembrance of the snake-like ringlets which adorned perukes upon “ the Pantiles” in de Grammont’s day ; but Wiggy prepared Soles, with- out puns, for table, too. So there might have been a man thus called; for we cannot associate soles with wigs, unless the fact of the fish, if not prime, being sometimes called Wooley, can constitute an analogy. Whigey was an adjective, formerly used to express an eatable’s being in a state of acid fermentation ; hence a cake, made with yeast, was termed “a Whig,” and thence sprung the political designation. But all this brings us not a hair the nigher to a reply for the im- portant question “ Who was Wigqy?” The late Doctor Kitchener enumerates no less than two hundred and fifty various works on Cookery, all of which he had, doubtless, consulted in the formation of that mass of eccentricity, which he denominated “ The Cook’s Oracle.” This list does not include the learned labours of Monsieur Ude; who, judging from the statement made in his title-page, of his having been cook to the unfortunate Louis XVI., must, be- tween the death of that Monarch, and the publishing of Ude’s last edition, have derived experience from nearly fifty years’ practice. RANDOM REMARKS. SE The portrait of this venerable Chef must have been taken some years since. Oh, that the painter had depicted him in the habit de cuisine of a veritable Cordon bleu! much more characteristic of his genius than the fur-trimmed coat and bedizening rings, which would soon have become abominations, if worn while he laboured in his art. But we will now speak of his work. Monsieur Ude introduces his readers to some remark- able hybrid dishes, “ Roast beef of lamb,” for one. Why not “ Mutton pies of veal?” and “ Pork chops of broiled fowl ?” I should wonder at these un-English blunders the more could I credit the hints of some, who pretend to be in the secret, that “Monsieur Ude’s book” was written by a noble ex-master of his, coincidentally known, in the world of Fashion, by the name of “ Cod’s Head and Shoulders.” Monsieur Ude, in a style that savours not of his nation’s vaunted gallantry, is ignorantly unjust to the women-cooks of England. May we never eat worse dinners than some that all of us must have eaten, cooked by females, who, like the hero in one of Mrs. Radcliffe’s romances, had “never been in Paris.” Beau Brummel once called “the two most distressing bores in life a hack char’ot, and a she-cook.” Substi- tuting for the She an epithet very Bewitching, doubt- less, from his elegant lips, to the “ears polite” of his admirers, though “ horribly vulgar,” if used by “the lower orders of people.” Yet it is possible that “ poor George,” ere he died, would gladly have exchanged such 58 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. specimens of a French chef’s art, as he could afford, for a more substantial meal, offered him by London hospi- tality, and superintended by the wife of “that coarse dog,” an wntravelled English man. Query. If it put money in the purse of the Exclu- sive, would he not dine at two o’clock, with some ‘*miscreant”’ of the City, off fried tripe and onions? It were easy to deny the truth afterwards; or to vow it was done for “a spree.” If prejudices were not sure to impair both appetite and digestion, I would scorn to mention them; but though that prettily named pet of even the ladies, ‘‘ Dyspepsia,’ be inseparable from su- perior genius, I presume to think that health and com- mon sense are better bargains, To return to Monsieur Ude’s work. Whether or no Lord had a finger in the pie, I must allow that the book contains some information which might prove. of more value and utility, had it the merit of being generally intelligible; but difficult as the style is to comprehend, it is clear as crystal, compared with that of Monsieur Beauvilliers, the celebrated Parisian Re- staurateur. His “ French Cookery” must have been “ done into fLinglish” by some wag, who wrote, as many a meta- physician appears to have done, with the design of never being comprehended. If such was the Trans- lator’s aim, he has enviably succeeded. I could adduce a thousand instances, in support of my assertion, would it not be waste of time. I will pass slightly over his orders for “ drawing mackerel by the ears,” and con- tent inyself with quoting the following convincing fact. RANDOM REMARKS. 59 At the head of a farrago, supposed to give directions for boiled beef, he gravely places this title : “¢ Round of Beef,—Rosbif,—Rond-bif,—ou Corne-bif.”’ If ever corned beef was roasted, I will wish that no human beings (except Monsieur Beauvilliers and his traducteur) may have essayed its mastication. _ En passant, in some parts of Cheshire, “ delicate young heifer beef” is boiled without corning, and its flavourless toughness renders it a piece de resistance, a standing dish, that lasts as long as economy could desire. Before I take my leave of the great Restanrateur of «* Paris, the Metropolis of France,”’ I must entreat my British readers to give their atten- tion to the following delicious specimen of art—the mighty magician Beauvilliers thus transmogrifies tempt- ing pullets into loathsome lizards :— “ PouLETs EN LEZARD.” «Prepare two fine fowls; cut off the legs and pin- ions, keeping the skin entire, even that of the throat ; open them by the back-bone entirely, spread them upon a clean cloth, farce them with a farce cuite de volaille ; strip them, giving them the form of a lizard ; make the stuffed neck the tail, the thighs the hind legs, and the ends of the wings the fore legs, the breast the back, and for the head a truffle cut into the shape, or a turnip, which must be introduced into the body ; soften some of the farce cwite with a little velouté, spread it thinly over the back of the lizard, decorate it 60 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. with different coloured omelets, white, green, red, and yellow; imitate the rich colours of the animal ; cover an oval stew-pan with barbs of lard, put in the lizards, taking care to preserve their form; poéle them as fowls a Ventrée de broche; cover with strong paper and a cover ; let them boil, and then simmer with very little fire over, as it would alter the colour 3; when done drain them, and serve them upon a ravigote, or Hol- landaise verte.’ The notion of Lizard-eating reminds me, that I had been speaking, lately, with a friend, of whom I have often made mention, respecting the strange and varied edibles scrupulously swallowed, or conscientiously es- chewed, by different nations, or communities. The re- sult of this chat was the following :— “ DEeaR Benson, “T send you a Trifle, which you will, I hope, serve up with your own dishes. Let me sincerely deprecate all accusation of irreverence .on serious subjects, or of a design to ridicule the habits of éxdividuals, trained in a manner contrasting our own; but, as the regulations to which I refer were long since totally annulled for Us, they become mere historical curiosities, on which we may comment, without offending any Uberal mind; though my versified Extracts were condemned as ‘ pro- fane,’ by a high literary character ; but, as he might have written of himself (like the Italian pantomimist in George Gordon’s riots), ‘ No religion at all,? and was, besides, an habitual blasphemer, you will not wonder at his being too cowardly to draw near even the bones of soulless animals, which lay in a receptacle, RANDOM REMARKS. 61 as he said, ‘ by the multitude called sacred.’ I charge you, however, by your love of Christmas festivities, to print my— JEU D’ESPRIT. Whether t’envy or pity, I don’t know, do you, The meals of an ancient and law-keeping Jew ? Though Moses allow’d him a rare choice of meat, Yet some tempting dainties he wasn’t let eat. A rabbit, because, although ‘‘ chewing the cud,”’ Of thyme, double parsley, or violet bud, He’d have found it a rather tough task, had he tried, ‘« The hoof,’’ (say of horse) with his teeth to ‘‘ divide,’’ ‘¢ The Peoples,’’ with no fricassees might supply, Unsmother’d in onions they let him trot by ; And though neat as a lady’s fur tippet his mien, We’re forced to believe the beast could’nt be ‘‘ clean.” There might be some solace, for hare or for ham, In ‘‘a sodder’d heave shoulder,’’ or ‘‘ wave breast of ram,”’ On which, ‘‘ for a priest, it was holy ’’ to dine, That ‘‘a Nazarite’’ might, after that, ‘‘ drink his wine.”’ Yet many a fair-longing Levite might droop, Denied the enjoyment of Camel’s hump soup. Now “‘ the deasts of the waters, or river or sea,’’ Unhallow’d, untouch’d, ’bominations must be, Unless ‘‘ finn’d or scaled,’’ that’s a tolerant view, As, without fins or scales, there are fishes but few; And, as to amphibious brutes, a believer Might not like Hippopotamus, Otter, or Beaver. One might be resign’d to the absence of gammon, In presence of white bait, smelts, turbot, or salmon; Nay, oysters and prawns one might e’en do without, Left soles, North-sea cod, fresh red mullet, and trout. 62 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, Of fowls that were fair, and yet birds that were foul, What a relish was lost in a plump ‘ little owl!’’ A nice ‘‘ cuckoo”’ pie, or a brace of boil’d daw, Or a ‘ pelican,’’ roast, with his Eels in his maw! ’Twas hard to be baulk’d, if a man set his mind On a barbicued “ ossifrage, after his kind,”’ Or lose the ‘‘ bat’’ patty, that tickled his taste, With the sooty-wired wings sticking up through the paste. But the Tribes were forbidden, which robb’d them yet more, To eat ‘‘ any fowl that could go on all four;”’ The man was defiled, by their rational laws, Who munch’d a plumed biped that ‘‘ went on its paws;”’ And e’en to this day the injunction endures— “¢ What goes on its own stomach—goes not im yours! The sole ‘‘ flying creepers’’ they had, as a treat, Must ‘‘ have legs grow above,’’ mind, not wnder *‘ their feet ;”’ And, appetite still with strict rules to enslave, These beetles must ‘‘ Jeap,’’ and these locusts must shave ! The Nazarites kindly all razors would spare To secure locust’s ‘‘ baldness,’’ thin ‘‘ grasshopper’s”’ hair. On such they might feast ; and the fact hath been proven, That ‘‘ crickets’’ will walk, of themselves, to the oven. Oh, envious of Israel well might it make us, To see ‘‘ chirping pints ’”’ of ’em hot from the ‘‘ bake-us.”’ ee s Alas, the per contra to all that is nice ! They might eat cockchafers, but must not eat mice ; In ‘‘ chamelion”’ a l’arlequin ne’er flap the soul, Nor, even at Genoa, swallow ‘‘ the mole ;”’ Nor fatten a ‘‘ weazel,’”’ good cooking to merit, Nor carve for their guests tit bit slices of ‘‘ ferret.”’ Nor stew garden slugs, if their lungs were not well, Nor touch of a ‘‘ tortoise,’’ so much as the shell. Who sipp’d lizard-broth would severely be chidden, Nay, toad-pudding itself was expressly forbidden. RANDOM REMARKS. 63 And should any creature, not troubling the knife, By accident, sickness, or age, lose his life, No Hebrew must share it; a heart-saddening job, To resist the seductions of ‘‘ staggering Bob,”’ A wagon-squat wether, or little or big, An iron grey gander, or measley pig ! More tyranny yet; should the cleanest of all, Stone dead in their well, on their cabbages fall, They must not give those greens or to wife or to daughter, And, worse sentence still, they must not drink that water. For hear what a penance the Rabbis propose ! Each man who transgresses shall ‘‘ wash his own clothes,’’ They don’t say his person, that would be oo bad ; But fancy some dandy Mosaic of a lad, For his senseless presumption, in mauling dead lions, Forced to get up his collars, with starch and hot irons. That’s a vile Cockney rhyme; but don’t give me your witty ‘cuss !”’ See Numbers, ‘‘ the meekest of men,’’ and Leviticus. Your’s ever b) Water Eis.” I take my correspondent at his word; leaving him the eredit of his lines, with such readers as may relish them, and proving myself irresponsible for aught con- cerning them, save their admission here, should they be ‘¢ Caviare to the General.’’ Seldom does aught connected with the Victualling Office prove so; though I once heard a dowager pro- test that she had “ never felt the sentiment of hunger.” H 64 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, If this were true, she had never had a chance for suf- fering that wn-sentimental woe. An Universal Interest impresses even the Idioms of a Language. Our Tongue certainly owes more pithy phrases to our Teeth than to our tenderer parts; to the kitchen than to any of our higher spheres of living. Are not “ Ripe,” ‘ Mellow,” “ Racy,” terms ap- plied to the beauties of the Fine Arts? Are not the butts of society said to be “ Roasted?” its fair fa- vorites “ Toasted?” Will not many a Hoaxed or Quizzed one, when detecting the purpose of his perse- cutors, confess himself “ done brown?” Do not the Passionate threaten to “ boil over??? Prudes are ac- cused of “ mincing matters ;” carneying legacy-hunters, of “knowing on which side their bread is buttered ;” the petulant man is called “peppery ;” the grudge- hoarder, “ too apt to let things stick in his gizzard.” Some profess a “ thirst ” for learning; others say they have no “ appetite ” for excitement. One reader *“‘ skims” a book, another “devours” it. This plea- sure seeker “ feasts his eyes” on a picture, while that dips his whiskers in “ the cream of a joke.” Cobbett, or rather the Smiths, R. A., (better write it at full, for fear of wrath from Academicians or Ar- tillery Officers—Rejected Addresses),—Cobbett there, I say, complains of the mob’s being inconsistently called at once “‘ the scum and the dregs of society.” served cold upon a damask napkin. 120 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, Observation.—Never purchase from itinerant ven- dors, gulls’ eggs are constantly substituted, and although closely resembling the delicacy they pretend to be, are strongly and unpleasantly flavoured. GINGER Drops. Reduce four ounces of candied orange peel to a paste, in a mortar, add two ounces of white ginger, finely ground, and two pounds of powdered sugar, moisten these with a coffee-cupful of clove water, and boil till the syrup is sufficiently thick to be dropped on buttered paper. Set the drops in the oven for five minutes, and then remove the paper from the bottoms. These are cheering and comfortable companions ona cold journey, and can be easily prepared. Mince Piss. Having given copious directions for the making of mince meat in the Epicure’s Almanac for 1841, I shall now proceed to mention how mince pies can be made without meat. For the delicate, the omission of the beef is a decided improvement, and even those in rude health, will find the following recipe well worth the trial :— Carefully prepare, as before directed, a pound and a half of fresh beef suet, let it be chopped as small as pos- sible, stone and divide into four pieces a pound and a half of Smyrna raisins, well wash and dry on a coarse cloth two pounds of currants, peel, pare, core, and cut small three pounds of russet-coat apples, add a quarter of an ounce of mixed cinnamon and mace in pia with four cloves also reduced to powder, a pound anda RECIPES, ~ 12} half of powdered sugar, a spoonful of salt, the juice of a lemon, its peel finely grated, a table-spoonful of mixed candied fruit, broken into little bits. Let all these be ‘stirred well together for a quarter of an hour, then let them remain in the pan for a couple of days. When you are about to make mince pies, throw a gill of French brandy, and the same quantity of Port wine, into the vessel, give it a good stir. Line the re- quired number of pattipans with properly made paste, fill from the bottom of the pan, cover, and bake as be- fore directed. SPRATS A LA ANCHOVIES. Pick out twelve dozen of the finest and freshest sprats you can procure, sprinkle them well with salt, and let them remain in it for twenty-four hours, then take them out one by one, and wipe them perfectly dry. Reduce to powder an ounce of saltpetre, an ounce of bay salt, an ounce of sal prunel, and four ounces of basket salt, mix with these a dozen cochineal, also in powder. Dip the sprats in this mixture, have some flat oval gallipots ready, cover the bottoms with the seasoning, pack the fish closely, filling up with the mixture, cover the tops with layers of it, and tie down with bladder. Observation.—Kept in a cold place for six months, this will be found an excellent substitute for the more expensive article, particularly for sandwiches, OxFoRD SAUSAGES. Three pounds of pork, and the same weight of veal, PH the sinews and skin of both being carefully removed, 122 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, are chopped up finely ; add a pound and a half of beef suet, shredded very small, and mixed with the crumb of two stale rolls, finely grated, and moistened with fair water. To these are added, two dozen dried sage leaves in powder, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoon- ful of pepper. Observation.—The ingredients used are so simple, and these sausages so easily prepared, that I do not wonder at their extensive popularity; if they contained a greater diversity of materials, they would not, in all probability, have become such favourites with the young men of the University; though I am tempted to be- lieve, that their worthy seniors would give the prefer- ence to something more highly seasoned. Murton Ham. Hang for three or four days, according to the season of the year, a leg of four year old mutton, of some do- zen pounds weight ; trim it so as to give it the shape of a ham. Dissolve in a stewpan half a pound of common salt, half a pound of bay salt, half a pound of coarse Barbadoes sugar, and a couple of ounces of saltpetre, pour in a cupful of water, to prevent burning; let all these boil, stirring it constantly, that the ingredients may be properly mixed. Put the mutton into a deep dish, and pour the liquor boiling hot over it. Turn and baste it with the brine for five days, then add three ounces of salt to the liquor, and continue to turn and baste the meat for ten days longer. At the end of this time, take it from the pickle, rub it with coarse cloths till perfectly dry, then slacken a large piece of quick lime in water, and rub it very thick over the surface o RECIPES. - 123 the meat with a brush. Hang the ham in a chimney, where wood only is burnt, for a fortnight. Observation.—The white-lime wash not only pre- serves the meat from flies, but will indicate by its colour whether or not the ham has been sufficiently smoked. Quakine PuppDING. Boil a quart of cream, sweeten it with sugar to your taste, and let it grow cool, then stir in two table-spoons- full of fine flour, and add four eggs well whisked. Butter a mould, and pour in the ingredients; place a piece of writing paper over the bottom, tie up in a eloth, and hang the mould, top downwards, in a sauce- pan of boiling water, for an hour. Be very careful in taking the pudding out of the mould, tap the sides of it smartly, if you think it adheres, as its appearance is spoilt if sent to table broken. Grate nutmeg over the top. Serve it with melted butter, to which two glasses of Madeira, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar has been added. Hessian Sour. Wash well in luke-warm water half an Ox cheek, with a whole tongue. Boil these in six quarts of water until the meat be tender, pour off the liquor, and when quite cold, skim away the fat very carefully. Cut the meat off the bones into proper sized pieces, and the tongue into slices, and set these by. Peel, and slice, half a dozen potatoes, the same number of onions, tur- nips, and carrots; add these with a bunch of mixed sweet herbs, a quart of split peas, and the bones, to the liquor, and let all simmer till the vegetables are re- duced to a pulp, take out the bones, strain the soup N 124 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, through a coarse sieve, season with salt, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, and a very little mace in powder, and warm up again in a hot-water bath when the soup is required for table. Racovut oF Ox Heap. The meat you have laid aside can be served the same day, or the next, as a ragout, which affords you a va- riety without increasing expense. It is thus managed: Take from the saucepan a pint and a half of the li- quor, before the vegetables are put in. Mix a table- spoonful of flour with a spoonful of salt, another of equal proportions of Cayenne pepper, mace, and cloves in powder, rub the bits of meat, and slices of tongue, over with this seasoning, then lay them in a stewpan, with half a dozen force-meat balls, and the like number of egg-balls; pour in, very gently,the liquor you have reserved, having carefully skimmed it first. As soon as the liquor boils, pour in a glass of Port wine, and two table-spoonfuls of walnut catchup ; a few minutes will suffice for warming up the meat. Serve in a deep dish, and garnish with slices of lemon. Observation.—You. will enjoy your soup and ragout, none the less, if you give directions that the vegetables may be sent to some poor family in your neighbour- hood. LAMPREY, As DRESSED aT THE Hop-pote Horet, Worcester. The fish being carefully cleansed, the tough membrane which runs down the back is removed, and enough strong beef gravy, poured over in the stewpan, to cover them; to this is added a dessert-spoonful of mixed all- RECIPES. 125 Spice, mace, and cloves in powder, a spoonful of salt, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, a gill of Port wine, an- other of Sherry, and a table-spoonful of horse-radish vinegar. Cover the pan close, and stew very gently, till the fish are quite tender; then take them out, adda couple of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon to the sauce; boil it up, and strain it through a coarse sieve; should it require thickening, add a little flour, and a bit of butter. Warm up the lamprey in the sauce for five minutes before serving. Garnish with slices of lemon, and sippets of toasted bread. Observation.—Some folks eat mustard with lamprey; but if the fish be dressed as directed, it does not require the addition of this pungent preparation. The farmers’ wives, on the banks of the Severn, substitute strong cyder for wine. CHICKENS A LA NEIGE. Select a couple of chickens, with skins as clear as pos- sible; be sure they are carefully picked and singed. Dissolve a spoonful of salt in lemon-juice, add half a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar, and mix well up with fresh butter; divide this in two, and put a portion in- side each chicken. Fasten the pinions and legs with tapes, avoiding skewers, and use neither gizzards nor livers. Peel a lemon, cut the fruit into thin slices, and place these over the breasts and wings, then envelope each bird in the fat of dressed ham. Lay them in a stewpan, with enough well-seasoned veal broth, or white cullis, to cover them. Half an hour, over a slow fire, will be sufficient. Take away the ham and lemon, pass the consommé through a fine sieve, and pour it 126 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. boiling hot over the chicken, which, if due attention be paid to their cooking, should be as white as ‘¢ Unsunned snow.”’ APPLE JELLY. Take acouple of dozen of ripe and sweet apples ; pare, core, and cut them into slices, letting each slice fall into fresh water, which will prevent the fruit from turning brown. When you have prepared your quantity, put them into a sauce-pan, covered with cold water, boil till the fruit is quite soft, then force the juice through a tammy, and afterwards pass it through a jelly-bag; take the same quantity of clarified sugar as you have of liquor, boil both together, stirring well; when you find the syrup adheres to the spoon in fine threads, you may conclude that it is perfected. Fill jelly-pots, whilst your preparation is hot; let it stand to grow cold, cover each pot with brandied paper, and tie down with bladder securely. MADELEINE CAKES. Beat up four eggs, till the yolks and whites are per- fectly mixed; add to these, by slow degrees, half a pound of finely sifted flour, and half a pound of pow- dered loaf sugar, a tea-spoonful of salt, and the peel of a lemon grated; as soon as the ingredients are thoroughly amalgamated, work in half a pound of fresh butter, by the use of wooden spoons, avoid manual labour if possi- ble. Butter well as many pattipans of different shapes and sizes as will contain your paste; fill each about half way only, to allow for the rising of the paste. Bake in a slow oven; when done take the cakes out of the RECIPES. 127 pans, and place them on buttered paper, over thin plates of iron, From half the quantity of cakes, take away, with a dessert spoon, a portion of the centre; fill up the space with marmalades of various sorts, cream, jams, jelly, or sweet-meats, according to your fancy. By this arrangement, a very handsome and varied dish of pasty will be made, with comparatively little trouble or expense. SPINACH IN CoNSOMME. After preparing this vegetable as directed in the Epicure’s Almanac for 1841, roll it up into balls, and stew it briskly in veal broth well seasoned, adding enough nutmeg, in powder, to cover a sixpence, and a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar. Observation.—Spinach thus dressed is an applicable accompaniment to veal, or boiled mutton; with roast meat, it is advisable to serve it plainly dressed, accord- ing to the manner to which I have just alluded. Roman Pouncw. Prepare the quantity of sherbet required in the same manner as recommended in the article, “ Punch a la Ford.’ For every half dozen lemons used, beat up the whites of three eggs, and pour half a pound of boiling clarified sugar upon it; mix this well, and, when perfectly cool, throw in the sherbet; let all be thoroughly iced. When you intend to use it, add spirits in this proportion,—to every six lemons, add half a pint of old Jamaica rum, half a pint of Cognac brandy, and a glass of Maraschino. If you make it in a large quantity, a bottle of Champagne will much im- prove the flavour. Serve in tall glasses; and if properly N 2 ~ 128 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. made, your mixture should be smooth, white, and as thick as cream. The history of Ponch a la Romaine is somewhat curious, and deserves a mention. It had been, for nearly a century, the summer refreshment. of successive Popes, and their cooks were threatened with the horrors of the Holy Office, if they ventured to impart the se- cret of its preparation. The invasion of Italy, by Napoleon, in 1796, served to break through this terrible interdict ; a young man named Molas, son to the chief confectioner of Pius the Sixth, no sooner saw the tree of liberty planted in the Eternal City, than he ran away from his father, leaving the pattipans and jelly-bags of the Vatican to their fate, and united his fortunes with those of the conqueror. Young master Molas became a favourite servant of the ill-starred Josephine; when she died he obtained a situation in the culinary establishment of the Russian Prince, Lieven, and accompanied his Excellency to London, on his appointment as ambassador to our court. The Signor was the first to introduce the papal delicacy in London, and the guests who partook of it, at the Prince’s table, were thrown into extacies. ‘The recipe was sent to Carlton-house, in compliance with the wish of the Prince Regent, and his Royal Highness permitted copies to be given toa select few of those he honoured with his friendship; by degrees it became better known, and I remember, about seven years ago, a pastrycook’s shop in the Quadrant where this deli- cious, but insidious punch, was to be eaten in perfec- tion. A French lady, once enjoying some such ice, is said RECIPES. 129 © to have exclaimed, “‘ What a pity that this pleasure is not asin!” Taste and morality so Parisian can neither need nor merit a comment. Breer a tA Hare. During the months when game is not to be procured, a very savoury dish, for a remove, can be thus made:— Put the inside part of a sirloin of beef into an earthen pan, and cover it with equal quantities of Port wine and vinegar; let it soak all night, and till you are about to dress it. Prepare a force-meat, as before di- rected, roll the beef round it, and tie up with broad tapes, securing the top andbottom. Envelope the beef in thin slices of the fat of dressed ham: when these are nearly dissolved, take them off, baste with the wine and vinegar in which the meat was soaked. Pour over it some good rich gravy, before serving, and send melted currant jelly to table with it. Brack Currant PupDING. Pour half a tea-cupful of melted butter into a pud- ding mould, and see that the whole be well and equally covered by it; then drain off the remainder. Cut the crumb of two French rolls into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; butter these on both sides; take as many of them as will line the mould, and stick dried cherries upon one side, in lines, up the centre of each slice; put these into the mould, with the fruit next to the surface; spread black currant jelly over the other slices, and put them one at a time into the shape until you have filled it, but not too full; place the mould top downwards. As soon as this is done, beat up four eggs wi 130 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, in a cup of boiled milk, sweeten with sugar to your taste, and add half a lemon peel grated. Pour in the milk, &c., and when the bread has absorbed as much as it will hold, cover the bottom with buttered paper ; tie it up in a cloth, and suspend it in a saucepan of boiling water for an hour. Great care is necessary in taking this pudding out of the mould. Serve with wine sauce. Gravy Soup. Score the meat of a leg of beef, and break the bone in two or three places; put this into a large kettle, with rather more than a gallon of water, add half-a-dozen burnt onions, a tea-spoonful of mixed mace and cloves, a salt-spoonful of Cayenne pepper, and a bunch of mixed sweet herbs. Simmer slowly for three hours; if you do not then find the flavour sufficiently strong, give it another half-hour. Pour it into a pan, and let it stand all night; next morning, remove every par- ticle of fat. Slice a couple of carrots, and chop up two heads of celery, boil these with a table-spoonful of mushroom powder, in a separate saucepan, with a little of the soup. When the vegetables are quite tender, force the pulp through a coarse sieve; strain the soup, add the carrots, &c., and serve quite hot with toasted bread. Observation.—If properly made, gravy soup should be nearly transparent. Vermicelli can be added if you like it, for which, see Epicure’s Almanac, 1841. JoHn Dory Is dressed in the same manner as turbot, boiling ac- cording to the size. You can either strew the fish with whole capers, or serve it with lobster sauce. ‘. RECIPES. 181 Observation.—The Dory is an illustration of the wise old saw, “’Tis a risk to judge by appearances.” A more hideous, mis-shapen creature hardly swims; and yet, for flavour, he exceeds all other finny things. The golden carp, speckled trout, the mullets, red and gray, may be more tempting to the eye, but appeal to the pa- late, and ugly John carries away the palm. r It is worthy of remark, that the name of this fish, so English in its sound, and given by one of our own dra- matists as an appropriate appellation to a bluff British tar, is, after all, but a corruption from the French, in which language it is denominated “Jaune D’orée,” from its colour. PARTRIDGE PIE. Cut off the legs at the second joint, from four par- tridges ; chop up the livers finely, with an equal quan- tity of veal udder, then adda small bunch of parsley and three young onions, also chopped fine. Season with salt, Cayenne pepper, mace, and allspice, in powder, till you have a good force-meat ; moisten this with yolks of eggs; stuff each bird with these ingredients, and en- velope them in the fat of dressed ham. Cover the bot- tom of a properly sized dish with a layer of force-meat, then put in the partridges, filling up the spaces with the seasoning ; pour in two table-spoonsful of catchup, and sprinkle a tea-spoonful of mushroom powder, over all. Cover with a light paste, and bake for an hour in a moderately heated oven. Mec Dop’s WassarL-Bowt. “Crumble down, as for Trifle, a nice fresh cake (or use 182 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, macaroons, or other small biscuit), into a china punch- bowl, or deep glass dish. Over this, pour some sweet rich wine, as Malmsey Madeira, if wanted very rich ; but raisin wine will do. Sweeten this, and pour a well-seasoned rich custard over it. Strew nutmeg and grated sugar over it, and stick it over with sliced blanched almonds.” Observation—The worthy landlady of the “ Cleikum Inn, Saint Ronan’s,” must have been blind fou, when she called the above “a wassail-bowl2’ The old dame endeavours to conceal her blunder, by confessing that what she prescribes “is, in fact, just a rich eating pos- set ;” the true wassail-bowl of the Saxons was made of warm ale, spiced and sugared, in which half-a-dozen eggs had been beaten up, and some three or four “roasted crabs” thrown in, as a crowning relish, ITALIAN CAKES, Grate the peel off three lemons, then break up eight eggs into a large basin, whisk them up well, add the lemon peel, and, by slow degrees, a pound of finely powdered sugar ; these materials will require, at least, half-an-hour’s mixing. Have ready a pound of sifted flour, and put this to the other ingredients, a spoonful at a time, till you have used the whole quantity. To insure a proper size for the cakes, use a wooden hoop, about a quarter of an inch thick, and three inches clear in the diameter; mould the paste with this, and spread the cakes upon buttered paper; bake in a well-heated oven. When quite done, take them out, and let them grow cold. Arrange them in pairs, bottom to bottom, in a tin case, which must be kept near the fire for three RECIPES. 133 days. Be sure to keep them in a dry store-room, if so, they will remain good for many months. Potato SouFFLE. Select a dozen prime potatoes of the largest size; let these be well washed and scrubbed with a brush ; bake them in a slow oven till they are perfectly done. Cut away a portion of the end of each, sufficiently large to permit you to take out the interior with a spoon; if properly baked, no difficulty will arise in abstracting the “ vegetable farina.” Beat up the yolks of a couple of eggs in four spoonsful of cream, add to this a table- _ spoonful of melted butter; sweeten with powdered sugar, and then put in a spoonful of salt, and the peel of half a lemon grated. Mix these with the potato flour, and then add the whites of the eggs, previously well whisked up. Fill the skins, adjust the portions cut off, place the potatoes in the dish you mean to use, and set it in a quick oven for twenty minutes before serving. Observation.—This will be found to be about as deli- cious a way of treating “ Irish wall fruit,’ as any pre- paration extant. Camp VINEGAR. Wash and bone three anchovies, break up two cloves of garlic, and bruise them in a mortar for ten minutes ; put these into a jar with a pint of the best white wine vinegar, half an ounce of Cayenne pepper, a table- spoonful of walnut catchup, and another of Indian soy, add four cochineals reduced to powder. Place the jar on the hob for a month, shaking it as often as conve- 134 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. nient. Filter through blotting paper into sauce bottles for use. Breast oF Murron aND GREEN PEAS. Cut the meat off a breast and scrag of mutton in pieces two or three inches square, take away all the fat, dis- solve it, and fry the mutton in it till the meat is of a dark brown colour; set this aside. Put the bones into a stewpan with a bunch of parsley, an onion in slices, a bundle of mixed sweet herbs, a little salt and pepper ; cover with cold water, and let all simmer till you have extracted a well-seasoned gravy ; skim very carefully, and strain the liquor through a sieve ; then put in the _ mutton, and a couple of quarts of green peas. Stew for half an hour over a low fire, and serve in a deep dish. Observation.—Mutton thus cooked is called by the French a la Bourgeoise. LEVERET, A leveret should be well washed in several waters, to free it from the juices before dressing. It is usual to introduce the liver, chopped small, into the force-meat, with which the animal is stuffed. Directions for roast- ing hare will be found in the Epicure’s Almanac, 1841. You cannot do better than to follow these, allowing from half an hour to forty minutes for dressing. Minter Puppine. Boil a pint and a half of new milk, and dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in it, then put in powdered sugar till you have sweetened it to your taste; add a tea- spoonful of mixed nutmeg and ginger, in powder. Let RECIPES. Ss) the milk grow cold; mean time, wash carefully four ounces of millet seeds (if you prefer the grain ground, there is no occasion for the last direction). Beat up three eggs in the cold milk, add the millet, pour ina glass of brandy, stir all well together. Butter a pudding basin, put in the ingredients, secure all with a cloth, and boil for an hour, Observation.—This is an acceptable dish for a conva- lescent patient. Sour AND BovuiLtt. Cut four pounds from the centre of a brisket of beef, put it into a deep saucepan, with plenty of water, at least two inches deep above the surface of the meat, give it a brisk boil, and take off the scum as it rises. Put in a turnip, peeled, and cut in slices, a carrot scraped and sliced, a leek, an onion, and a head of ce- lery cut up, a bundle of mixed sweet herbs, in powder, and a bunch of parsley, afew grains of Cayenne pepper, and a couple of cloves; let all this simmer for four hours. Boil, in a separate saucepan, a turnip, an onion, and a carrot whole, when cooked, set them by to cool. At the expiration of the time specified, take out the beef, and place it ona dish to drain; strain off the liquor into an earthen pan, and when quite cold, take away the fat. Cut the whole vegetables into squares, and when the soup is required, warm these up with the beef, in the strained liquor, for ten minutes. Serve with toasted bread. Place the meat upon a dish, for the convenience of carving, or, cut it from the bones into properly sized mouthfuls, and send it to table in the soup. O 136 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, Britt. The directions given for turbot are applicable to brill, making due allowance in the time of boiling for the dif- ference of weight in the fish. Serve with melted but- ter, in which a table-spoonful of horse-radish vinegar has been mixed, and cover the surface of the fish with the coral, or spawn of a lobster. Send Reading sauce, and a fresh lemon to table also. Observation.—The best brill are eae on the Kent- ish coast, between the North Foreland and Dungeness. TuRKEY GIBLETS. The liver, gizzard, neck, and pinions of a turkey are called the giblets, by many cooks; a very acceptable dish can bemade of them by following these directions:— Having soaked them in warm water, to free them from the juices, cut them into properly sized pieces, which fold up in thin slices of streaky bacon. Stew for forty minutes, in a rich and well seasoned brown gravy. Just before serving, warm up three or four small burnt onions, with the giblets. Mock CREAM. Stir into a pintof new milk, a dessert spoonful of finely sifted flour, pour this into a saucepan, and simmer it very gently for five minutes, but do not let it boil ; beat up the yolk of an egg, with a very small quantity of powdered sugar, add this to the milk, give it a brisk boil, and pass it through a fine sieve. Observation.—We are indebted to the late celebrated Alderman Birch, for this substitute for dairy cream. RECIPES. 137 Long residence upon Cornhill had doubtless convinced him of the difficulty of procuring the genuine article, and what I have just recorded has the advantage of being far superior to “the juice of snails and lime water,” so often retailed as a treat to the lieges. Epinpurcu Drier Cake. Whisk up in a bowl the yolks and whites of eight eggs; to these, add by slow degrees a pound of well sifted powdered sugar; stir these together for at least a quarter of an hour; then add the peel of two lemons, finely grated, and a stick of cinnamon, reduced to pow- der. Mix, by a table-spoonful at a time, three quar- ters ofa pound of flour. When all is properly amal- gamated, lay the dough on buttered paper, bake quickly, and you will have a very light and agreeably tasted cake. CoLECANNON. To a dish of mashed potatoes add one third of their quantity of young cabbage, savoy, or spinach, pre- viously boiled and mashed also. Season with pepper and salt, add a good sized slice of butter, warm up all together, and serve in the same manner as spinach. Observation.—This is a favorite dish in Ireland, where it is also called “ Calecannon ;” but, whence the deri- vation is obtained, has puzzled the Antiquary almost as much as the original purpose of those funnel-shaped - towers, found so frequently in the Green island ; it is not improbable that it will be ascertained ere long, that these were intended as chimnies above the grates used for the preparation of the very dish now on the tapis. 138 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, KitcHENER’s SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. “A pint of Claret or Port, a pint of mushroom eatchup, half-a-pint of walnut pickle, four ounces of powdered anchovy, an ounce of fresh lemon peel, cut very thin, the same quantity of shalots, and scraped horse- radish, an ounce of black pepper, and allspice, a drachm of Cayenne pepper, or three of curry-powder, and a drachm of celery seed. Infuse these in a wide mouthed bottle, closely stopped for a fortnight, and shake the mixture every day; then strain and bottle for use.”’ Observation.—As an inducement to “ the good house- wives of Great Britain to prepare their own sauces,” the Doctor proceeds to remark ; “and, as a fair lady may make it herself, its relish will be not a little aug- mented by the certainty that all the ingredients are good and wholesome.” The great objection to follow- ing Kitchenev’s directions so ingeniously backed, is the fact, that his “ Sauce Superlative” would prove twice as expensive as that sold by Cross and Blackwell, La- zenby and others. If you desire a preparation, at once cheap and relishing, consult the Epicure’s Almanac for 1841. Article, “ Home-made Fish Sauce.” Cotp Roast Breer -FRICASEED. Cut the meat into thin slices, and pare off all the fat, gristle, or skin; cover with flour, and set these by whilst you extract a gravy from the bones, and other portions, omitting the fat; season the liquor with pepper and salt, and add three or four young onions, and a bunch of parsley to it. When you find it suf- ficiently strong, add a glass of Port wine, the juice of RECIPES. 139 ¢ half a lemon, and the yolk of anegg; then warm up the slices quickly, but do not let the sauce boil, or the meat will become tough. Prune Tart. In the early spring, when from the absence of fresh fruit you are obliged to have recourse to preserves &c., a very excellent tart can be made of French plums, or as they are commonly called prunes. Let as many as you require be well washed in warm water, cut open, the stones extracted, broken, and the kernels mixed with the fruit; line a dish with puff paste, put in the prunes, moistened with orange flower water, cover the top, and bake the usual time according to the size of your dish. MitKxep F ip. In a quart of new milk, beat up the yolks of half a dozen eggs, sweeten with powdered sugar, to your taste. Pour this into a bowl, and add half a pint of brandy, rum, or whiskey, whichever you prefer; grate nutmeg over the surface, and throw in a spoonful of finely shreaded lemon peel. Whisk up the whites of the eggs toa froth, and add these to the other ingredients. Observation.—On_ a cold winter’s night, a moderate quantity of the above, may be taken with advantage. It is in constant request, in America, morning, noon and night, denominated by the Yankees “ Egg nog.” It is also a favorite morning refreshment in Scotland, under the somewhat strange title of “ Auld man’s milk.” Euphrasia, bearing a goblet of it to her father’s dun- geon, would look better in a picture than she does in her recorded office. 02 140 THE EPICURTE’S ALMANAC, CLERMONT Soup. Cut a dozen silver onions into slices, and fry them gently, in fresh butter, till they are of a bright brown tint ; drain them well. Season as much rich veal gravy as will be sufficient to fill a tureen, when quite warm put in the onions, and two table-spoonsful of finely grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with fried bread cut into dice. Baxep Sautmon TrRovt. Select a fish of about four pounds weight, for this dish. Let it be scaled and cleaned, and fill the interior with the same forcemeat as recommended for “ Sa- voury Haddock ;” fasten the head and tail together, and set the fish by, whilst you prepare the: following sauce :— Slice a carrot, an onion, a couple of shalots, to these add two table-spoonsful of mixed chopped parsley, thyme, and sweet baril, a couple of cloves, and a salt spoonful of Cayenne pepper and allspice in powder. Boil all these in vinegar, and dissolve a lump of butter in it. When your sauce is ready, strain it through a sieve, pour a portion of it quite hot over the fish, place the trout in the oven, and let it be well basted with the sauce, whilst baking. Before serving remove the fish to the dish you intend using, thicken the sauce with flour, add the juice of a lemon, and a glass of Madeira, and pour the sauce round the fish, just before you send to table. Bratsep Goose. Select a deep stew-pan, that will hold the bird con- veniently, cover the bottom of it with slices of bacon, RECIPES. 141 or ham fat; an onion, turnip, and carrot peeled and ‘sliced, a table spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a tea- spoonful of mixed mace and Cayenne pepper. Truss the goose in the same manner as you would a fowl for boiling, cover the breast and wings with thin slices of ham fat, lay it in the centre of the stew-pan, and put an equal quantity of the ingredients before named over it. Cover closely, set the pan upon hot embers, place some on the cover, and stew very slowly for forty minutes ; then take out the goose, keep it hot while you boil up the sauce, strain it, and pour it over the bird before serving. Observation.—I cannot conscientiously recommend this to persons of delicate digestion, though they may with safety partake of a Turkey, dressed in the same manner. The latter bird thus cooked is considered the ne plus ultra of the Gastronomic art, else wherefore exist the following quaint lines ? “‘ Turkey boiled is Turkey spoil’d, And Turkey roast is Turkey lost ; But for Turkey braised the Lord be praised! ”’ In quoting these, however, I beg leave to protest against the opinion expressed in the two first lines. Batu Buns. Rub up half a pound of fresh butter in a pound of carefully sifted flour; beat up half a dozen eggs in four table-spoonsful of milk, mix these with the dough, and then add a table-spoonful of good yeast ; put all in a deep pan before the fire for an hour, then add an ounce of carraway seeds, and six ounces of powdered sugar to the other materials. Mould the 142 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. dough into buns, and place them on a baking plate covered with buttered paper, bake in a hot oven for ten minutes, then glaze the tops with egg and sugar, strew a few carrraway seeds over each, and set them in the oven for five minutes longer. Winpsor Beans, When very young, are an appropriate accompaniment to a joint of pickled pork, a portion of gammon, or a nice bit of streaky bacon. They should be boiled in abundance of water, in which a handfe! of salt has been dissolved, and before sending to table should have parsley and butter poured over them. Guascow PuncH. I extract the following recipe for the making of the far famed Glasgow punch from the brilliant pages of ‘* Peter’s Letters.” “The sugar being melted with a little cold water, the artist squeezed about a dozen lemons through a wooden strainer, and then poured in water enough al- most to fill the bowl. In this state the liquor goes by the name of Sherbet, and a few of the connoisseurs in his immediate neighbourhood were requested to give their opinion of it, for in the mixing of the Sherbet lies, according to the Glasgow creed, at least one half of the whole battle. This being approved by an audible smack from the lips of the umpires, the rum was added to the beverage, I suppose, in something about the pro- portion of one to seven. Last of all the maker cut afew limes, and running each section rapidly round the rim of his bowl, squeezed in enough of this more delicate RECIPES. 143 acid, to favour the whole composition. In this con- sists the true tour de mattre of a punch maker.” Observation.— With an affection and respect for every thing Scotch, I cannot forbear expressing my convic- tion that the foregoing directions are faulty in the extreme. I will say nothing of the astounding in- formation afforded that lemon juice, sugar and water, mixed together, are called “Sherbet,” but will main- tain that one glass of punch, made after the fashion of the late General Ford, is worth a dozen bowls of the Glasgow drink. In the latter none of the highly flavoured essential oil is used, and rum only. as the spirit ; to be sure the introduction of lime juice is re- commended, but as limes are not to be procured at all times, I have only to reiterate that I back my General against— “One provost, four bailies, a town clerk and six deacons ;” Even though they be the Magnates of this great northern city. Savoury Brisket or BEEF. Put seven or eight pounds of brisket into a stew-pan and cover it with water, let it simmer till the meat be quite tender, -Cut away the bones, and let the liquor grow quite cold, that you may remove all the fat from the surface. Mix, with a pint of the clear liquor, halt a pint of Port wine, a table-spoonful of walnut catchup, a spoonful of mushroom powder, and half a dozen arti- choke bottoms ; to these add a salt spoonful of mixed Cayenne pepper, and mace in powder. Boil a couple of carrots, and a couple of turnips, and cut them into 144 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, small squares, strew these over the meat, and warm it up very gently in the sauce for a few minutes. Truf- fles, if convenient, may be also used with advantage. BroiLtep PAaRTRIDGES, A brace of birds trussed, split down the back, and dressed in the same manner as I have recommended as an improvement upon the old plan of broiling fowls, will be found very palatable, with the advantage of being cooked in half the time required for roasting them. Cocoa-Nut CREAM. Finely grate half a pound of fresh cocoa-nut, and mix this in a pint of cream, sweetened with powdered sugar, and thickened with egg as before directed. Observation.—In the East and West Indies powdered cocoa-nut is constantly used in various culinary prepa- rations. It imparts arich aromatic bitter, and has none of the deleterious qualities which are found in the bay- leaf, and I strongly recommend its substitution. Mix Soup. Put into a couple of quarts of new milk, a spoonful of salt, four lumps of sugar, and a stick of cinnamon. Boil them. Make a few thin slices of toast, enough to line the bottom of the tureen you intend to use, pour a little of the boiling milk over them, and put the tureen in a warm stove till required. Five minutes before serving, beat up the yolks of half a dozen eggs in the milk, stir it well, and pour it into the tureen. Observation.—The introduction of a quarter of a - pound of sweet almonds, blanched and prepared as di- RECIPES. 145 yected for “* Almond Soup,” renders the above homely sounding soup, Potage de Lait. A much finer name for your bill of fare. Percu In WINE. Clean and prepare a brace of perch, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of beef gravy, properly seasoned, and a pint of Sherry or Madeira. When the fish are quite done, take them out, strain and thicken the sauce, add to it a glass of Port wine, a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar, and a small bit of anchovy paste, about the size of'a bean. Warm up the fish again for five minutes ; before serving, garnish with slices of lemon. PLeasukE-Party Piz. “That time of year,” like “the days when we went gipsying,” while threatened dearth is sure to be averted by the hopes of intended Pic-Nic-ers, that “ the weather will continue fine,” dissolve guantwm suf. of rich beef jelly, in delicate proportions of the following ma- terials. Genuine catchup, lemon juice, Port wine, and Chatna sauce. See that when the amalgamation again is cold, it forms a fine jelly. Prepare two tender young ducks for roasting, they will not now be too dear little ducks. Make this forcemeat. “ Take the venom out ” of your onion, by laying it, cut in slices, in warm milk and water, for ten minutes; chop it with a few leaves of fresh sage, a very little lemon peel, nutmeg, Cayenne, and salt; mix this with finely crumbled bread ; beat up the yolks of four eggs, and so moisten your stufhng, with which you may fill the craws, if you have too much for the interiors. Semi-roast your birds, slowly 146 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. at first ; then secure their skins the crisp, brown charm, _ which may rank with that of a roasting pig’s crackling. Next, not only carve, but thoroughly disjoint them, separating both front and rear into small portions. Line a pie dish fit for their reception with light paste, ar- range them therein. Warm the gravy, pour on as much as possible, cover with paste, having an aperture at top, for adding the rest ; stop this ornamentally, bake your pie, and produce it frigid, ‘‘ Under the greenwood tree.”’ Not only does it save much knife and fork trouble, but, with its paste and jelly, is a far more complete re- fection than cold poultry, however excellent, can be. From its mildness, too, it offers no “ preventive check,” to those labial endearments which used to constitute the pleasure of such parties “a long time ago.” PRosa- tum Esr! Observation.—This entirely original recipe has been sent me by an inventive friend. I feel certain, that, on trial, it could not disappoint the most trusting antici- pations ; and see no reason why my readers should wait for an al fresco banquet, ere they become acquainted with its merits. Why should it not, in the summer, give pleasure to a party safe between four walls? CALEDONIAN SHORT-BREAD. Divide a pound of fresh butter into small pieces, and mix these, by slow degrees, with three pounds and a half of finely sifted flour. Cut two ounces of candied orange peel, and the same quantity of citron, into bits of about three quarters of an inch long; blanch, and divide into RECIPES, 147 four, two ounces of sweet almonds, add the fruit and six ounces of powdered sugar, to half a pound of melted butter, then mix all the ingredients together as quickly as possible ; if you take too much time in kneading, © your short bread will not be so crisp as it ought. With a rolling pin make your paste quite flat, and about an inch and a half thick, divide it into oblong squares, indent the edges with a flat skewer, stick a few bits of candied fruit on the top of each, and strew small sugar- plums over them. Cover baking plates with flour, lay your short bread carefully on these, and bake in a mo- derately heated oven. Ruspy Jetty. Boil slowly, in two quarts of water, half a pound of hartshorn shavings, with the rind of three oranges, and three lemons finely grated; when reduced to a quart strain through a sieve, and as soon as it is cool sweeten with eeggered sugar to your taste, add a gill of Ma- deira, and half a dozen cochineal in powder. Whisk up in Tene materials the whites of six eggs; set it again on the fire, do not stir it, but when it is on the point of boiling, run it through a jelly bag into the mould you intend using. Observation.—A shape of this surrounded by brilliant amber coloured calf’s foot jelly, makes an elegant and tempting looking dish. Carrots, ANTWERP FasuHron. Good sized fresh carrots are par-boiled, cut into slices about the third of an inch thick, and then stamped with a star-shaped instrument. These are stewed in butter P 148 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. with a buich of parsley, and three or four small onions chopped fine, and seasoned with a moderate quantity of pepper and salt. Parsnip WINE. Scrape and cut into quarters eight pounds of parsnips, boil these in a couple of gallons of water, till they are quite soft; strain off the liquor without crushing the vegetables, measure it, and to every gallon add three pounds of loaf sugar and half an ounce of crude tartar ; let it cool, and then add the necessary quantity of yeast. Ferment it near the kitchen fire for four days, then put in the bung, and bottle in about two months. Observation.—The admirers of home-made wines as- sert that parsnip is superior to all others, I have never tasted it, but have heard a dear old lady rave about its excellence so repeatedly that I cannot entertain a doubt on the subject, though, were I offered my choice, I am inclined to believe I should prefer Madeira . There is no accounting for the difference of tastes! me ¢ CassEROLE OF Roast Mutton. ‘ From a cold leg of mutton cut slices not too thick, and free from fat, sprinkle these very sparingly with equal quantities of flour, Cayenne pepper, and salt. Pour a teacup-ful of melted butter into a pudding mould, shake it well till the sides are completely covered. Have ready a dish of mashed potatoes, pre- pared with cream, mace, &c., as before directed; line the mould about half an inch thick with the vegetable, fill up with the slices of mutton, and a good layer of the potatoes at the bottom, tie writing-paper over it, and RECIPES. 149 bake for half an hour in a slow oven. Tyxn out the contents, and garnish with India pickles. Observation.—This is at once an elegant and economi- cal dish, and well deserving the notice of good house- keepers. Fawn. This delicate meat should be dressed the day after killing, if possible. The hind quarters are the best por- tions. Before roasting, let the joint be enveloped in veal caul, and liberally basted with fresh butter during the cooking. Five minutes before taking up, remove the caul, and dredge the meat with fine flour to froth the outside. Have ready a good, strong, and well-sea- soned mutton gravy to pour over it, and serve with melted currant jelly, and Port wine sauce. CastLE PuppDincs. Mix an ounce and a half of finely sifted flour, with the same weight of powdered sugar. Dissolve in a basin, before the fire, an ounce and a half of fresh butter, beat this up till it becomes creamy ; whisk a couple of eggs, and mix them slowly with the butter, stir in the sugar, and, afterwards, the flour; add a spoonful of grated nutmeg, and half a lemon-peel grated. Put the ingredients into custard cups, and bake ina moderately heated oven for twenty minutes. Soup A LA Mra MERRILIES. « This savoury and highly relishing new stew soup may be made of any or every thing known by the name of game. Take from two to four pounds of the trimmings or coarse parts of venison, shin of beef, or 150 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, shanks or lean scrag of good mutton, all fresh. If game is plenty, then use no meat. Break the bones, and boil this with celery, a couple of carrots and turnips, four onions, a bunch of parsley, and a quarter of an ounce of pepper-corns, the larger proportion Jamaica pepper. Strain this stock, when it has boiled for three hours. Cut down and skin a blackcock, or woodcock, a phea- sant, half a hare, or a rabbit, a brace of partridges or grouse, or one of each, (whichever is obtained most easily), and season the pieces with mixed spices, These may be floured and browned in the frying-pan ; but, as this is a process dictated by the eye as much as the palate, it is not necessary in making this soup. Put the game to the strained stock, with a dozen of small onions, a couple of heads of celery, sliced, half a dozen peeled potatoes ; and, when it boils, a small white cab- bage, quartered; black pepper, allspice and salt, to the taste. Let the soup simmer, till the game is tender, but not over done ; and, lest it should, the vegetables may be put in half an hour before the meat. “This soup may be coloured and flavoured with red wine and two spoonsful of mushroom catchup, and en- riched with forcemeat balls.” Observation.—This is also called “ Poacher’s Soup,” so I scrupled not to follow the example of the bold out- laws, but poached it from Mistress Meg Dods. The words, “ Partridges, or grouse, or one of each, (whichever is obtained most easély,) are quite in the liberal spirit of gipsey game-robbers. The materials enumerated might more than satisfy a formidable horde of tan-skin marauders. “Men may sleep, and have their throats about them, at that time; nevertheless, RECIPES. 151 knives (or knaves) have edges.” But, could I ever, with personal safety, sup off this soup and bouilli, as guest of the free rovers to whom it is dedicated, I have no doubt, that “the ingredients of their cauldron” would inspire me to prove my erateful admiration by chanting the fine old West Country song, in which oc- curs these characteristic and logical lines :-— ‘* Zo now zuccess to poaching ! ’Cause I do zay’t be vair!”’ Turpot SALAD. A very handsome, and at the same time piquant dish ean be made, should your larder contain any cold turbot. Dress a salad as directed in the Epicure’s Almanac for 1841, and place it in a proper bowl. Cut the cold fish into long pieces, and about half an inch broad. Wash and bone four anchovies. Cut a root of beet long ways, into slips, the same size as the turbot. Strew the top of the salad over with whole capers; and then arrange the anchovy, beet, and turbot, alternately upon the vegetables, which should be piled up, on purpose for the display. Ornament the top with a dahlia, cut in beet root, supported by two green bay leaves, which may be cut up, at pleasure, with the rest of the contents of the salad bowl. InNocENT GOOSE. Many persons are liable to find the perfume of very savoury fare, reaching them before dinner, destroy the appetite. Geese, with their sage and onions, may be deprived of power to breathe forth any incense, thus :— Ba 152 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. Pare from a lemon all the yellow rind, taking care not to bruise the fruit, nor cut so deeply as to let out the juice. Place this lemon in the centre of the sea- soning, within your bird. When, or before, it is brought to table, let the flap be gently opened, remove the lemon with a table-spoon ; avoid breaking, and let it be in- stantly thrown away, as its white pithy skin has ab- sorbed all the gross particles which else would have escaped. Neither goose nor stuffing, of course, have any flavour of lemon, as the substance with which they have been at close quarters is perfectly insipid; yet, not only will it be found to have taken up the acrid qualities of the root, but drawn from every part of the flesh and fat such attributes as are rather rich in strength than sweetness. Observation.—This method has never yet been made public; but is practised in the establishment of an eminent surgeon of Bristol, who, taking a friend, one day, five minutes before dinner, to the very kitchen door, asked him, ‘if his nose guessed what their roast would be?’ This gentleman, my informant, possesses keen and fastidious senses, yet owned that ‘he had no idea on the subject, but veal, lamb, or pullet, came to him sure of an equal welcome,’ He added that, when he beheld a Goose, astonishment made him look very like one! ArrLe Pores, Roast, very gradually, in an American, or Dutch oven, as many rough coated apples as required. Take out the pulp with a dessert spoon, taking care not to disturb the core. To every four apples use the rind of one lemon, finely grated, add this and sweeten with RECIPES. 153 powdered sugar to your taste. Make a light puff paste, with plenty of eggs and a proportion of sugar properly mixed in it. Use up the pulp by a dessert spoonful at a time, surround it with paste, and be careful to make your puffs of a moderate size, (very much smaller than any of Colburn’s) bake in a quick oven, and serve either hot or cold. SrewEep Rep CABBAGE. Cut into thin slices, enough of the heart of a red cab- bage to fill a pudding basin of about a pint and a half in capacity; wash and separate the folds of the vegetable. Have ready an onion, boiled in two waters, then, chop- ped fine, add this to the cabbage, taken from the water but not drained. Melt enough butter to cover the yegetables, put both into a stew-pan with a couple of spoonsful of salt, half a salt spoonful of Cayenne pep- per, and two of cloves in powder. Cover the stew- pan close, and let all simmer for forty minutes. Fry balls of forcemeat, or if more convenient, sausages, and range these round a dish and put it into the oven. Take off the top of the stew-pan and pour in three table- spoonsful of vinegar, when that boils place the cabbage in the centre of the dish, and send it to table. ORANGE CREAM. Cut the rinds off a couple of Seville oranges, in the same manner as directed regarding lemon peel in the making of punch ; boil these till they are tender, then beat them into a paste in a mortar ; moisten with a gill of Cognac brandy. Strain the juice of the oranges through a sieve, mix with it eight ounces of powdered 154 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. sugar, and the yolks of half-a-dozen eggs. Mix all the ingredients together for ten or twelve minutes, and then add, slowly, a quart of boiling cream. Stir till all be- comes cold, then fill your glasses, and keep them in a cool place till required for table. Tonic Birrers. Cut up, into little bits, an ounce and a half of gen- tian root, a quarter of an ounce of dried Seville orange peel, and a drachm of snake root. Pound in a mortar two ounces of juniper berries, a quarter of an ounce of coriander seeds, a quarter of an ounce of calamus aro- maticus, and half a drachm of cardamom seeds. Put all these ingredients into a jar, containing five quarts of brandy, or whiskey ; give the jar a good hearty shaking — when the materials are first put in, but let it remain quietafterwards. Cork it down well, and keep it in a cool place for a fortnight, then strain off through blotting paper into conveniently sized bottles for use. Observation.—The substitution of good Sherry for alcohol, will render a glass of this excellent tonic more acceptable to those who fear the effect of strong cor- dials, and will prove equally efficacious. NEILGHERRY Pinavu. Stew, in rich, well-seasoned beef gravy, enough rice to fill the dish intended. Meantime, broil half a dozen mutton chops, quite free from fat. Frizzle before the fire, or over it, if you are using wood, half a dozen slices of lean ham. Spread a layer of the stewed rice upon a dish, then arrange your mutton and ham on the top, and cover the meat with the rest of the rice, press it RECIPES. 155 down with a trencher, glaze the top with yolk of egg, and brown the dish in an oven, or before the fire. Whilst this is doing, fry a dozen silver onions brown, and boil six eggs hard, for the yolks. Garnish with these, and serve with Chatna sauce, and Chili vinegar. Observation.—Boiled chicken, or veal cutlets, are equally applicable for a pilau. Some cooks add curry powder to the gravy. Chacun a son gout. Briack-Cock. These delicious birds should be dressed before a bright fire, and great care taken that they be well basted, and not over-done. Ten minutes before serving make a round of toast, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and then lay it in the dripping-pan, place the birds upon this for table, and send melted butter only, highly seasoned gravy destroys the true flavour of black-cock, or his mate, grey-hen. Devin or ALMONDS. Blanch two or three dozen sweet almonds, or more if your party be a large one, and “ serious drinking,” to use an Hibernian phrase, be contemplated. Split the fruit into halves, and fry them in fresh butter, till they are well browned, then sprinkle Cayenne pepper and salt over them, and serve quite hot. Remember, that you use twice as much of the spice as of the saline in- gredient. UsquEBAUGH. Grate nutmegs till you have half an ounce in powder, put a quarter of an ounce of cardamom seeds, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves, into a mortar, and reduce 156 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, them to powder Cut out the pips of raisins of the sun, till you have prepared a pound weight of the fruit ; grate the rind of two Seville oranges, add to these half a pound of brown sugar-candy, in powder, and a dessert- spoonful of the tincture of saffron ; put all these into a jar with a couple of quarts of pure malt whiskey, free from the turf flavour so desirable upon other occasions. Shake the jar as often as possible, for three weeks; then filter through blotting-paper into bottles for use. Observation.—Although the name of this Hibernian cordial is derived from Usque-bee@, Anglice, Yellow water, it often, in compliment to the isle wherein it was originally concocted, wears an Emerald hue, pro- duced by the introduction of spinach-water. This tempting liqueur, which used moderately could do no harm, or reserved for application as a stimulant-re- storative, in case of need, might even do good, is so an- tiquated and obsolete, that its very title may be forgot- ten, save by the few not ashamed of remembering, and preferring to what is now called music, such fine old English glees as— ‘¢ When Arthur first at court began,” The one of his “ three serving men” who earliest meets a fit reward for his national taste, and for thieving from his master, is thus despatched :— ‘¢ Usquebaugh burnt the Irishman,’ who, we are led to suppose, imbibed such lashings of that same, that like Jacob Faithful’s mother, he died of ** Spontaneous combustion.” _ RECIPES. Va7 CABBAGE Soup, As MADE IN GERMANY. Shred the hearts of two white cabbages into fresh water, put them into a stew-pan, with enough butter to prevent burning, and let the vegetables become ten- der by a slow fire, having the stew-pan closely covered. Have ready as much well-seasoned veal stock as would half fill your tureen, and the other half of rich beef gravy, put in the vegetable, skim well till all fat is re- moved, throw in the usual quantity of toasted bread properly cut into dice, and serve quite hot. CurRY oF Cop FIsuH. Cold cod fish can be redrest as a curry, thus :— Separate the flakes and cover them with flour ; slice a couple of onions and fry them in butter toa rich brown, put the fish and vegetables into a stew-pan, with acup- ful of veal broth, another of cream, and a table-spoonful of curry-powder. Ten minutes warming will be quite sufficient. Prepare rice as directed in the Epicure’s Almanac, 1841. MARINADE OF CHICKEN, Parboil a couple of fat young chickens, cut them into joints, and put these into an earthen pan with some sprigs of parsley, the juice of two lemons, an onion sliced, a spoonful of salt, and half that quantity of Cay- enne. Cover down the vessel, and place it upon the hob for a couple of hours, stirring the contents six or eight times. When the dinner hour arrives, beat up a couple of eggs in enough flour to make a batter, take 158 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, out the chickens, joint by joint, dip each in the batter, and fry them in clarified dripping. Warm up enough tomato sauce to cover the dish you intend using, dis- pose of the joints on this, and send to table, garnished with slices of lemon, or barberries. The materials in which the chickens were steeped, may be added to soup, beef gravy, or stock. RESTORATIVE J ELLY. Simmer slowly, for an hour, in two quarts of water three quarters of an ounce of each of the following ma- terials ; pearl barley, eringo-root, sago, hartshorn sha- vings, and rice; strain it through a proper bag, and warm up a portion of it, in either wine, or milk, accor- ding to the diet permitted the invalid. Observation.—Doctor Jebb, an eminent physician of Gloucester, used to prescribe this jelly as being at once light and nutritious. It is by no means a despicable foundation for soup. SHREWSBURY CAKES, Mix eight ounces of flour in half a pound of fresh butter, then add six ounces of finely powdered sugar, beat up a couple of eggs in two table-spoonsful of rose water, to these put half an ounce of carraway seeds, and a stick of cinnamon reduced to powder, mix all the in- gredients well together. Upon a well floured paste- board, spread the paste, a quarter of an inch thick, and divide it into cakes, with a knife or stamp, according to your taste. Bake in a quick oven. RECIPES. 159 Potato FRITTERS. Scotch cooks often send potatoes to table in a very tempting and savoury form, by dressing them thus :— Parboil half a dozen, or more if required, large, long shaped potatoes, cut these in slices, about as thick as a crown piece ; beat up a couple of eggs, with a table- spoonful of finely grated bread crumbs, and an equal quantity of the lean of ham rasped small, dip each slice in this mixture, and fry in abundance of boiling lard, or Florence oil. The vegetable thus dressed, is a ca- pital accompaniment to a chop or steak, and is often served as a supper dish without reference to meat. CINNAMON CoRDIAL. Put a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and half a lemon peel finely grated, into four quarts of whiskey or brandy. Boil two pints of clarified syrup of sugar, and add it, quite hot, to the above, stirring all well together. Put this into a jar, and stop it down closely, shake it occasionally for a week, then filter it as before directed, and draw it off into small bottles for use. This cordial can be watered down to suit the taste of the drinker. ZWIEBEL FLEISCH, A German Disu. Take the skin off half a dozen pounds of the thin flank of beef, and stew it, closely covered down, in two quarts of water, for an hour. Cut the rind off a couple of lemons, put this with a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a dozen heads of black pepper, double the number of Q 160 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC. Jamaica pepper-corns, two bay leaves, and a spoonful of salt, into a loose muslin bag. Slice up eight or ten large onions, put all these ingredients into the stew-pan, simmer gently for forty minutes, skimming the fat as it rises. Have a deep dish ready for serving, remove the bag of spice &c.; place the meat in the centre of the dish, and pour the sauce and onions over and round it: Observation.—There is no reason, that | am aware of, that should prevent the use of primer meat, than the portion selected by the Germans for the concoction of this dish. NorTHUMBERLAND PUDDINGS. Sweeten a basin-ful of fresh milk with powdered sugar, and thicken it with finely sifted flour, till you have a good strong batter, pour in four ounces of melted butter, two ounces of mixed candied orange and lemon peels, four ounces of Zante currants, carefully washed and dried, mix these all well together, and then stir in a wine-glass of brandy; pour melted butter into as many tea-cups as you will need, see that the insides be covered, and drain off the superfluous butter; fill with the pudding mixture, bake for fifteen minutes. Take them out of the cups before serving, and pour wine- sauce over the tops. KNUCKLE OF VEAL Soup, AS MADE IN SCOTLAND. Break the bones of a large knuckle of veal, and stick three or four stout skewers into the meat, to prevent its touching the stew-pan, cover it with water, chop up RECIPES. 161 couple of onions, a turnip, a carrot, a head of celery; add to these a bunch of parsley and lemon thyme, and two dozen pepper-corns ; stew till the meat be quite tender, then put in a basin-ful of boiled rice, and the yolks of a couple of eggs ; keep it simmering till within half an hour of its being required for table; then take out the meat, strain off the liquor, separate the vegeta- bles from the rice, warm up the veal, rice, and soup again, and you may send the meat to table in the tu- reen, or on a separate dish, according to your taste. SALMON CUTLETS. Dip slices of salmon ico Florence oil, and strew them over with Cayenne pepper and salt, wrap them in oiled paper ; fry for ten minutes in boiling lard, then lay the eutlets on a gridiron over a clear fire for three minutes longer. Parsley and butter, or plain butter with a spoonful of Chili vinegar in it, are the best accompani- ments. Racovut oF PraEons. Make enough forcemeat to stuff four birds, chopping up the livers with the other ingredients. Brown the pigeons in the frying pan, and then put them intoa stew-pan, with enough rich beef gravy to cover them; thicken this with flour, and pour in a coffee cup full of mushroom catchup, and a couple of glasses of Port wine. If fresh mushrooms can be procured add four or five to the stew, breaking them as before Seip in this case omit the catchup. Snow CREAM. Boil half a dozen dumpling apples, and take out the 162 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, pulp carefully, when this has become quite cold, whisk up a dozen whites of eggs to a froth, sweeten the fruit with powdered sugar, and mix it rapidly with the eggs. Heap it on a proper dish, and garnish with dark green leaves, or flowers, to render the contrast of colour, and the.immaculate whiteness more apparent. Perticoat TAIts. With three pounds and a half of flour, mix half an ounce of carraway seeds. Dissolve, in a quarter of a pint of milk, twelve ounces of butter, and three ounces of powdered sugar; pour this upon the flour, and knead it as rapidly as possible; roll out the dough until it is about a quarter of an inch thick; lay a dinner plate, face downwards, upon the paste, and cut yound the circle; then place a tumbler glass in the centre, and divide the paste round its edge; take this away, and add to it all the remnants from the outward circle, and form it into a thick cake, the same diameter as the tumbler; divide the ring of paste into eight por- tions; these are the Petticoat tails; bake upon buttered paper, in a quick oven, set the cake in the centre, and surround with the eight sections. Observation.—Now as all these components would not make a wearable petticoat, nor could the tail of any ever worn be easily rendered good to eat, I will add an authentic historical elucidation. When the fair widow of Francis 2nd left the Gallic court for that of her own moral, but unpolished land, she brought with her the French tastes, at jirst so uncongenial with every habit of her Scottish sub- jects, The young Caledonian beauties, with whom she RECIPES. 1638 surrounded herself, however, soon delighted in doing whatever best pleased their witty and beautiful queen- name-sake. Among other such sportive waste-times she enjoyed making ornamental pastry, with their help ; and grave men, visiting Holyrood on state affairs, often found, that, if permitted to kiss their sovereign’s hand, their beards must first brush away a layer of the raw material, for these “‘ Petits Gatels,” (Little Cakes.) ’Tis said that the name’s corruption was abrupt, not gradual. Frailty, infanticide, and execution, threw a sudden cloud over these dainty idle-pins, pardonable in a mere woman, but (as time proved) ruinous, fatal to amonarch! ‘The catastrophe to which I have alluded, convinced the lovely Stuart’s Presbyterian advisers that this “ Papist leddy”’ was careless enough to con- nive at, nay, encourage, such foreign libertinisms as were too common among French females to cost either shame or regret; but which, in their results, drove a proud daughter of Albyn, to far deeper crime; imme- diately on the detection of which, her mistress, with the furious, hypocrite prudery, unknown to real virtue, used her power to take life for life. The family name of the ex-favorite, doomed to such summary punish- ment, is unknown, for, in her own death-wail she sung— ‘¢ This morn the Queen had four Maries, To night she’ll ha’e but three ; There was Mary Seaton, an’ Mary Beaton, Mary Carmichel, an me.”’ After this, if any fresh palace scrape scandalized that decorous realm, the Gudives of Auld Reekie would groan, “Oo, aye, they’ve been playing at Petticoat tails again !” Q 2 164 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, GRENADIN OF VEAL, Cut as many cutlets of veal as you require, squeeze lemon juice over them; have ready a plate full of well seasoned forcemeat, and as many slices of fat bacon as you have of veal. Place over a pie dish a calf’s caul, which will extend beyond the edge of the dish, lay at the bottom as many slices of bacon as will cover it, then forcemeat half an inch thick, above this a layer of cutlets, and so proceed till you have arranged all the meat, &c. Cover over with the caul, tie writing paper on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Prepare a small saucepan full of mushroom sauce, turn the Gre- nadin into the dish you mean for table, and pour the sauce over it. Ghrace after Peat. De grace, indulgent patrons, think not that I have so bidden, grace adieu as to mean aught, save mille graces to those who gave me such a character, for my last year’s service, that I was hired, as head cook, again, in the same place, for 1842. I won’t talk of wages; in- deed, I ought to have written “situation ” and “salary ;?” but old habits cleave to one, like egg and bread crumbs to a frying sole. In my case, the proverb, “ Give a dog a dad name, &c. &c.,” was reversed. I had won a good name, only in fun, by my former doings; and as I hinted, in my Introduction, some of my judges, fancying them- selves infected by my drollery, garnished their flatteries by such jests as these : RECIPES. 165 “ The lustre of Glasse is dimmed for ever. Kitchener will be kicked out of kitchens. Ude becomes obsolete as Hudidras.”’ ** This is the best ‘ Home Service’ Benson Hill ever did us, and decidedly his most cheerful work.” A third served me up :— ** Take a lively Bristol fed youth; skin him at a Military Academy, or College ; next stuff him at the Royal Artillery Mess, pouring in good wine, lest he should get dry ; set him in a cold place, not a safe; say Ireland, Scotland, France, Flanders, or America. Then roast him in the West Indies ; note how he stands fire; do not let him grow too rich; skewer leaves of old play books over him ; when he is snuff brown, send him to aristocratic tables ; do not cut him up unhand- somely ; eat his irony and exaggeration with a grain of his own attic salt, and you will find him, a substantial, pleasant, economical refreshment. Seriously, Mr. Hill must always have been ‘ a broth of a boy,’ ‘ a fellow of infinite ’ zest, feasting his imagination, yet so filling the store-room of his memory, that, when consigned to the monotony of rations, in some lone out-quarter, he could rationally make a mess for himself; both sagely gar- nished, and saucily tempting. ** Most soldiers have their broils, but few have turned them, with so light a hand, to banquets. “‘ Many actors have played Dicky Gossip, without gaining an idea for rendering ‘* As smooth as Hebe’s, the unrazored lips ’’ of Oysters! Again, at noble boards, Mr. Hill has coaxed hostesses, till they let him trace soups to their foundation. ‘No 166 THE EPICURE’S ALMANAC, man’s pie was free from his ambitious finger.’ He who devotes part of his brain to pastry, deserves a puff, and cannot, in any uncomplimentary sense, be termed pudding-headed. Hill has a spice of gusto, which might befit a civic mace-bearer ; yet, few such, after eating a goose, could use its quill as he does, in this appropriately named brochure, which has for its motto ‘* Pan shall remain !’’ “Yes, Apollo may ‘ quit the plain,” we may cease poetizing, singing, painting; but we must eat. Not even the admirers of Bishop Berkeley, (we have not ‘the presumption to comprehend him,’) have yet proved mutton an immaterial matter, though Poole once quizzed the pedants, by writing of ‘ abstract beef? We do not expect, and could not have ‘ too many cooks’ of Mr. Hill’s order. His Preface hints, that the receipts of his book, in both senses, would do well if they furnished salt to his porridge, and kept his own pot boiling. We predict, that the sale of this excellent, neat, and cheap manual, will soon demonstrate its popu- larity, and heartily do we paraphrase an old song : ‘ May the skill that he’s so rich in, Light a fire in his kitchen, . While the little elves of whim turn the spit!’ ’’ I have now but this to add. If my first Almanac merited half the praise it gained, I trust that, in my second, there will be found, at least, no diminution of harmless vivacity; and conclude with this blessing on all my kind supporters—past, present, and future ; ‘* May good digestion wait on appetite, And health on both! ”” INDEX. Almond co 118. » 67. Apple cee 126. Puifs, 153. Apricot Fritters, 84. Baked Salmon Trout, 140. Bath Buns, 141. . Beef a la Hare, 129. ——, Cold, Roast, Fricasseed, 138. » Fillet of, 90. as dressed at Naples, Sereieerorss ULL -——, Gravy, 77. -— Olives, 84. —— Palates, 109. ——, Savoury Brisket of, 143. Black Cock, 155. Black Currant Pudding, 129. Blanquette de Veau, 71. Braised Goose, 140. Breast of Mutton and Green Peas, 134. of Veal and Onion Sauce, 8). Brill, 136. Broiled Fowl, 68. - Partridges, 144, - Sheep’s Kidneys, 73. Broth, Chicken, 97. Impromptu, 98. » Veal, 77. Cabbage Soup, 157. Caledonian Short Bread, 146. Calf’s Head Pie, 80, ——- Liver, 94. Camp Vinegar, 133. Cake, Edinburgh Diet, 137. -, Italian, 132. |; ——-, Madelain, 126. -—-, Rich Plum, 70. ——-, Shrewsbury, 158. ——-, Tipsey, 116. Carrots, Antwerp Fashion, 147. Carrot Soufflé, 95. Casserole of Roast Mutton, 148. Castle Puddings, 149. | Cauliflower and Parmasan, 116. Charlotte of Apples, 112, Cheesecake, Lemon, 80. Chickens 4 la Neige, 125. Chicken Broth, 97. Cinnamon Cordial, 159. Clermont Soup, 140. Cocky-leeky Soup, 91. Cold Roast Beef Fricasseed, 138, Colecannon, 137. Condé Soup, 102. Cray FfSh, 78. Creamed Cod Fish, 72. Cream Cocoa-nut, 144, Mock, 136. Orange, 1568. Snow, 161. Vanilla, 101. Whipt, 101. Créme Imperiale, 115. Cucumber Vinegar, 117. Curry of Codfish, 157. Custard, plained boiled, 88. Cutlets, Maintenon, 75, Pork a la Mirepoix, 110. Devil of Almonds, 155. 168 Dried Cherries, 75. Dutch Sauee, 112. Edinburgh Diet Cake, 137. Eggs a la Tripe. 87. Fawn, 149. Fillet of Beef, 90. , as dressed at Naples, 104, —_—_—— French Beans a la Francaise, 69. Fricassee of Chicken, 115. Fried Plaice, 119. Game Soup, 113. Giblet Soup, 119. Ginger Drops, 120. Glasgow Puneh, 142. Gooseberry Champagne, 79. Golden Plover, 78. Gravy Soup, 130. Grenadine of Veal, 164. Hessian Soup, 123. Ice a la Naraskin, 106. Innocent Goose, 151. Italian Cakes, 132. Jelly, Apple, 196. ——-, Restorative, 158. —-, Ruby, 147. ——-, Savoury, 68. Jessamine Candy, $1. John Dory, 130. Kitchener’s Sauce, Superlative, 138. Knuckle of Veal Soup, 160. Lambs’ Heads, 105. Lamprey as Bu at Worcester, 12. Lavender Vinegar, 89. Lemon Cheesecakes, 80. Leveret, 134. ‘ Liver Sauce for Cod Fish, 79. Liquid Seasoning for Soups, 110, Loin of Pork 41a Sanglier, 99. Maccaroni Pudding, 100. Madelain Cakes, 126. Maintenon Cutlets, 75. Maraschino, 73. Marinade of Chicken, 157. Meg Dod’s Wassail Bowl, 131. Melon Ginger, 104, Milk Soup, 144. Milked Flip, 139. Millet Pudding, 134. Minced Fowl and Cucumber, 98. Mince Pies, 120, INDEX. Mock Cream, 136. Mutton, Breast of, and Green Peas, 134, SS Ham, 122. Neilgherry Pilau, 154. Y Northumberland Puddings, 160. Orange Chips, 93. - Cream, 153, - Syrup, 69. Oxcheek Soup, 107. Oxford Sausages, 121, Parfait Amour, 96. Parsnip Wine, 148. Partridges a la Perigaux, 88. Partridge Pie, 111. Peaches in Sugar, 106. Perch in Wine, 145. Petticoat Tails, 162. Pied de Cochon facon de Cologne, 95. Pie, Calf’s Head, 80. ——, Mince, 120. ——, Pleasure Party, 145. ——, Raised nee 76. Eel, 82. Plain Boiled Custards, 88. Plover’s Eggs, 119. Poached Eggs in Gravy, 81. Poor Man’s Sauce, 101. Pork Cutlets 4 la Mirepoix, 110. ——- Griskin, 117. Potage 4 la Julienne, 86. Potatoes a le Maitre d’Hotel, 76. Potato Fritters 159. - Souffié, 133. Poulet a la Malmaison, 103. ala Stamboul, 92. Prune Tart, 139. Pudding, Almond, 118. | ——--——, Black Currant, 129, ————-, Castle, 149. ——_——,, Maccaroni, 100. ——-, Millet, 134. ————., Northumberland, J60. ——-, Quaking, 123. ————, Tapioca, 71. ——_——, White, 85. re Pulled Turkey, 109. Punch, Glasgow, 142. ——, Regent’s, 90. » Roman, 127. Quaking Pudding, 123. Rabbits, as dressed at Venice, 94. Ragout of Mushrooms, 88. - of Ox Head, 124. of Pigeons, 161. - of White Mushrooms, 89. . . i's. ¥ s e Raised Apple Pie, 76. Ratafia de Quatre Fruits, 86. Red Herrings, 85. Regent’s Punch, 90. Restorative Jelly, 158. Rich Plum Cake, 70. Roast Mutton, Casserole of, 148. Roman Punch, 127. Rose-coloured Pancakes, 99. Ruby Jelly, 147.. Salad Vinegar, 105. Salmi of Pheasants, 83. Salmon Cutlets, 161. Sauce, Dutch, 112. for Wild Fowl, 84. , Kitchener’s Superlative, 138. Liver for Cod Fish, 79. ,» Poor Man’s, 101. Savoury Jelly, 68. Shrewsbury Cakes, 158. Skate a la Frangaise, 97. Smelts, 102. Snow Cream, 161. Soles en Matelotte, 108. Soup, Almond, 67. —— 4 la Meg Merrilies, 149. and Bouilli, 135 , Cabbage, 157. ——, Clermont, 140. , Cock-a-Leeky, 91. » Condé, 102. ——, Game, 113. ——,, Giblet, 119. , Gravy, 130. ——, Hessian, 123. , Julienne, 86. » Knuckle of Veal, 160. —— , Milk, 144. , Ox Cheek, 107. , Queen’s Favourite, 72. ——, White, 82. INDEX. Spinach in consommé, 127. Spitchcocked Eels, 92. Sprats a la Anchovies, 121. Stewed Giblets, 98. Pigeons, 71. - Red Cabbage, 153. - Shoulder of Venison, 118. Trout, 67. Sugared Pears, 95. Sweetbread en caisse, 113. Tapioca Pudding, 71. Tart, Prune, 139. Tench and Eel Pie, 82. Tonic Bitters, 154. The Queen’s Favourite Soup, 72. Tipsey Cakes, 116. Tourte a la Moelle, 83. Turbot Salad, 151. Turkey Giblets, 136. Usquebaugh, 155. Vanilla Cream, 101. Veal, Breast of, and Onion Sauce, 81 Broth, 77. — Collops, 74. Vinegar, Camp, 133. —-——,, Cucumber, 117. ————,, Lavender, 89. Water Souchy, 114. Whipt Cream, 101. White Puddings, 85. Soup, 82. Windsor Beans, 142. Wine Biscuits, 89. ——, Parsnip, 148 Yolk of Egg Balls, 106. Zwiebel Fleisch, 159. LONDON : W. M‘'DOWALL, FRINTER, PEMBERTON-ROW, GOUGH SQUAREe goKs BOo oo M_MKIRDY Ap 18 Murme Drive Rut Suase, BN? HO em vedere eye Bh aD Sore aaa ssiRrmegenn ares eas ce SS ERNE SURE