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EARTHLY FOOTSTEPS 
 
 | ——OF 
 
 THE MAN OF GALILEE 
 
 Being Five fundred Original Photographic Views and Descriptions of the Places 
 Connected with the Earthly Life of 
 
 DUR LORD AND HIS APOSTLES 
 
 TRACED WITH 
 
 NOTE BOOK AND CAMERA 
 
 SHOWING WHERE [HRIST WAS BORN, BROUGHT UP, BAPTIZED, TEMPTED, TRANSFIGURED AND CRUCIFIED, 
 TOGETHR WITH THE SCENES OF HIS PRAYERS, TEARS, MIRACLES AND SERMONS, AND 
 1LSO PLACES MADE SACRED BY THE LABORS OF HIS APOSTLES, FROM 
 JERUSALEM TO ROME 
 BY 
 BISHOP JOHN Te VINCENT, eB ILD: 
 
 Chancellor of Chautauqua, 
 
 REV. JAMES W. EBE@D: Di 
 
 Author of ‘‘The Making of a Man,” 
 
 R. E. M. BAIN, 
 
 Photographic Artist. 
 
 “Oh, here with his flocks the sad wanderer came, 
 
 These hills he toiled over in grief are the same, 
 
 The founts where he drank by the wayside still flow 
 
 And the same airs are blowing that breathed on His brow.?? 
 
 NEW YORK AND ST. LOUIS: 
 N. D. THOMPSON PUBLISHING CO. 
 
Copyright 1894 by N. D. Thompson Publishing Co. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HIS work is the final expression of a beautiful enterprise. The publishers, having conceived the idea of bringing out a book illustrating 
 the earthly life of Christ and the Apostles, determined that it should be original from beginning to end. They could have secured from 
 any general assortment of photographs in New York, Boston or Chicago the pictures necessary to make the plates for such a work, 
 but this was not in line with their ideal. Their scheme contemplated fresh and first-hand views accompanied with descriptions from 
 personal observation. Their plan made it necessary to actually invade Palestine and the regions related to it, not with fire and sword, 
 after the style of the military captain, but with harmless, scientific instruments. They proposed to capture the countries about the 
 
 Mediterranean Sea and transport them to America without destroying their cities or disturbing their people. No bombardment was to be inaugurated, 
 
 except such as passed through the lens of the camera, and no missile was to be projected deadlier than the thought that passed through a pencil to 
 
 the pages of a note-book. The. writer of this carried the pencil and Mr. Robert E. M. Bain manipulated the camera. Mr. Bain’s capacity to plant a 
 
 camera before an object so as to take it to the best advantage, with proper accompanying sky-line and perspective, has been settled by the medals 
 
 he has received for his exquisite landscape work from conventions both in Europe and America. To the function of photographer he unites the genius 
 of the artist. 
 
 We had prepared for our special purpose, by the Cramer Dry Plate people, in St. Louis, nine boxes of glass plates, weighing seventy pounds 
 
 each. These we carried with us all the way to the Holy Land and back. We were instructed to follow the footsteps of Christ and his Apostles and to 
 
 photograph the places and objects made sacred by their lives. 
 
 We traced the footprints of the Man of Galilee from Bethlehem, where he first appeared from Heaven through a manger; to Matariyeh, where 
 
 Mary and Joseph sojourned in Egypt; to Nazareth, where he was brought up; to the Jordan, where he was baptized; to the mountain over against 
 
 Pisgah, where he was tempted; to Hermon, where he was transfigured; to Jerusalem, where he was crucified, and to the Mount of Olives, from whence 
 
 he went to Heaven. We stood amid the scenes of his prayers, tears, sermons and wonderful works, and transferred them, with the blush and bloom of 
 
 Palestine, to the delicate, sensitive surface of our glass plates. We visited the countries where the Apostles preached and laid the foundations of Western 
 
 civilization. To St. Paul, more than to any other of the early followers of our Lord, is due the credit of continuing His work on earth. He repeated 
 
 he footsteps of the Man of Galilee in the territory of the Gentiles. We followed him from Damascus, where he was converted, through Asia Minor, 
 where he was persecuted and beaten; to Mar’s Hill, where he outraged the learned Athenians with his doctrine of the Resurrection; to Corinth, where 
 he preached to a dissolute and abandoned city the gospel of temperance and purity; to Puteoli, in sight of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and to Rome, where 
 he was beheaded. 
 
 We passed through the interior of Palestine with a caravan consisting of four tents, five mules, four horses and eight men, including dragoman, 
 
 cook and waiter. We carried letters of introduction from the Secretary of the Interior, from Dr. Wm. T. Boney Commissioner of Education, and from the 
 
 President of the United States. We had the best advantages that could be afforded by the courtesy of our Foreign Ministers. Through their influence 
 
 we had admission to shrines, sanctuaries and museums difficult of access. This was illustrated in the case of Brugsch Bey, who gave us the freedom of 
 
 the Egyptian Museum and permitted the mummy cases to be opened for us that we might get illustrations of the sojourn of Joseph and Mary with the 
 
 Infant Jesus in the land of the Pharaohs. We left St. Louis the last of March. The most of our baggage was so fragile that every mile of the fifteen 
 
 thousand in our contemplated journey was attended with peril. Yet we returned safely without the loss of a day from rain, without missing a single 
 
 railway or steamboat connection and without the loss of a single box of our plates. These boxes had been carried from place to place by rai way cars, 
 by express wagons, by carriages, by steamboats, by row-boats, by porters. They had been in the holds of ships, they had been strapped on the backs 
 of mules, they had been to the pyramids, they had been over the road traveled by our Savior and His Apostles, they had followed in the foots teps of St. 
 
 Paul in his missionary journeys, they had been to the city of Plato and Aristotle and the home of the Caesars. They brought back the accurate record 
 
 of our journey and were developed in the dark-room of the very factory where they were manufactured. In a few days after our return the National 
 
 Photographers’ Convention met in the City of St. Louis during the month of July, 1894. Mr. Bain entered a number of the first pictures developed and 
 
 for superior excellence was awarded a medal on them. 
 
 An opportunity is here given of making a delightful tour of Palestine and the countries adjacent to it without leaving home. You may see 
 
 Heliopolis, where Moses was educated, and where that petrified sunbeam, the rose-red granite obelisk, stands just as it stood four thousand years ago, 
 
 when Abraham came to Egypt from Ur of the Chaldees; and Memphis, where Ramases the Second lies in colossal lime-stone form prostrate on the ground, 
 
 the sole inhabitant of that once proud city. You may see the white and sandy shores of Syria rising over against the Mediterranean ‘Sea, furnishing 
 boundaries to its outgoing waters; and the mountains of Moab, bending in sympathy along the farther side of the Jordan as if seeking to protect from its 
 sacred waters the wild Bedouins beyond; and the waters of Lake Galilee, now sleeping in the mountains like a babe on its mother’s bosom, and now 
 lashed into boundless rage and fury by the down-falling storm; and Nazareth, long provincial and unknown, but always lifted high enough on the shoulders 
 of the ambitious hills to keep company with Tabor, Carmel tard Hermon. You may see Tyre, desolate and dismantled, sitting beside the sea, advertising in 
 her half-broken columns the arrest of a commercial career that made her the wonder of the world; and Sidon, the companion of Tyre in disaster and her 
 neighbor in irreparable ruin, piled in broken defeat beside the same sea, as if concealing in her Faleaunea marble some infinite story of misfortune and 
 
 n 
 
sin; and Bethlehem, too little to go down in the catalogue with the thousands of Judah, but half conscious of the glory in reserve for her as the birth- 
 place of the Savior of the world and content to rest on her hills, a perfect picture of undisturbed repose. You may see Jerusalem in her ups and downs 
 of glory and shame, with forty feet of human history piled in blood and ashes and bones in the depths of her Tyropceon Valley; and Damascus, coming up 
 out of the desert and gleaming from her gardens like a vision from Heaven. 
 
 Palestine glows with an unparalleled radiance when seen through the light of the Eastern sun coming up from over the mountains to the east 
 or going down into the sea to the west. We witnessed a scene April 26th, 1894, we can never forget. We were standing on the shores of the Dead Sea. 
 The sun was just coming up over the mountains of Moab. Nebo, where Moses stood, was in sight. The atmosphere traded with the light after a 
 fashion indescribably beautiful. The serious and sombre rays were received and quenched, while the bright and gay notes were thrown into a symphony 
 of color that beggars definition. The sun itself seemed to be the hub of a wheel with an infinite number of spokes. These radiated from the center and 
 lengthened out every whither into an oriental circle as large as ha f the whole round sky. It was the song of the sun seemingly raised to celebrate his 
 coming to that sacred land. The plains of Sodom and Gomorrah, the fringe of trees along the banks of down-coming Jordan and the rim of the 
 surrounding mountains were literally baptized in the waves of the g orious music played by the rising day. The castles and domes and minarets standing 
 along the Moab mountains were used by the sun as so many notes to provoke a response from the towering peaks crowning the Judaean mountains 
 rising from the opposite edge of the wide plain. A vast circle of vapory fire, mixed with streaks of pink and orange, encompassed Nebo, and in a 
 twinkling the battlements on the crest of the Mount of Temptation gathered about themselves the deep red glow of the same brilliant Eastern sun. - This 
 was music*the ear did not hear. It was addressed to the eye. But such a display of gorgeous harmony we had never enjoyed before. The whole’ plain 
 of Jericho, where Cleopatra reveled and where Herod died, was thrilled with the radiant pulses o luminous music. This you can never see exactly 
 without standing in the same memorable place. But I think it will be found that our artist came as near getting the color and flavor and bloom of the 
 lands of the Bible as any one who ever visited them with a camera. And all he brought back you may see without the expense and peril of a long and 
 tedious journey to these historic countries. 
 
 It is to Palestine that the countries about the Mediterranean Sea owe their charm and interest; and Palestine stands for a country that grows 
 in interest with the passing years. No great cities stand upon its coasts, no great rivers flow through its valleys, no great mountains lend sublimity to 
 its topographical features. It has no commercial standing and never had any. It never had a navy and never any place as a maritime power. Among 
 the nations it has been humble in position and small in extent. To the west of her stretched Egypt like a green ribbon for two thousand miles, raising 
 enough wheat every year to feed half the world. Under the very shadow of her mountains lay Phoenicia, crowding with her ships every market under 
 the sun. To the east of her spread Babylon, dazzling and corrupting the nations with her wealth. Somewhat further away Athens was seated on her 
 throne of hills by the sea, a queen of beauty attracting the students of the world with her art and learning. More distant still, but washed by the same sea, 
 whose waters left their labels of drift on her shores, was the great Roman Empire, embracing by her arms of war the peoples of the globe. Surrounded 
 by nations strong, rich and imperious, all compe ing for dominion and wealth, little Palestine seemed to have but meager hope as a candidate for a career 
 in the future. Egypt could rely upon her corn, Phoenicia upon her purple dye, Babylon upon her wealth, Athens upon her beauty, and Rome upon her 
 legions ; but what had Palestine to offer as a reason for present existence or future renown? With her patches of soil held by terraces to her hills, with 
 her narrow valleys hardly sufficient to produce bread for her people, with no army, no power and no flag, how was Palestine to hold up her head and 
 compete for a place in the history of men? While the nations around her were filling their granaries and increasing their dominions and whitening the 
 seas with their ships of trade, and filling the world with the din of their battles; the people of Canaan were writing poetry, chronicling their hopes, 
 uttering their prayers and reading from their inmost spirits the lettering which they accepted as coming straight from Heaven. Now, in this far off time, 
 after the empires have passed, after the tumult of battle has ceased, after the temples have fallen and the columns have been buried; after the splendid 
 forms in which material civilizations clothed themselves have vanished; we find alone remaining to bring us news of the countries long gone, like a forgotten 
 dream, the prayers and chronicles and visions and dreams of a poor Hebrew people, who had the faith in their day to trust in God and to consecrate 
 their lives to His service. If some Hebrew dreamers had not been taken captive to Babylon the very name of that empire had doubtless passed from the 
 memories of men. Had not the Jews by the exigencies of fortune come into relations with Egypt, interest in that wonderful country would never have 
 been revived. St. Paul’s sermon on Mars Hill has done more to conserve the beauty lying by its side than all other things put together. The great 
 Apostle’s steps over the Appian Way have kept that queen of roads gleaming straight and rock-paved through the ages. The lives of saintly people gave 
 to Palestine its title to immortality. Their prayers have preserved the perfume of her flowers and their sufferings have made her great. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HOLY LAND, with the regions immediately adjoining, constituting the most sacred of the Bible lands, does not lose its 
 peculiar interest to the most advanced student of history, civilization, biography and human nature, in this last decade of the 
 Nineteenth Century. News from Jerusalem, by cable or post, attracts the attention of both religious and non-religious readers. 
 There was never a time when tourists flocked with more pleasure and curiosity to the haunts and homes of the principal Bible 
 characters. There was never a time when pilgrimages, religious and scientific, were more popular. Again, within a few weeks, 
 
 he Palestine Exploration Fund of England has secured a permit from the Turkish Government to renew and extend its investigations 
 of the soil underneath and about the Holy City. Within a short time the shrill whistle of the locomotive has echoed among the mountains 
 and valleys of Judea, and but recently a steamboat was launched on the Dead Sea. The European powers keep watch of each other, 
 while all keep ward over the Holy places. And this not merely because of rival religious organizations, which diligently seek advantage 
 in their search for sacred sites or hidden treasures, or build shrines at which to bow in reverent worship, but also that they may 
 guard well this whole region that lies between the North and the South, the Mediterranean highway on the west, and the approach to India on the east. 
 If Christianity were effete, and simply an historic memory, there would be the same interest in Palestine that classic students now feel in the 
 researches of Schliemann and others, in Western Asia Minor and in Greece; but Christianity is a living verity. Its founder declared that He would draw 
 all men unto Himself, and commissioned his apostles to ‘‘ Go into all the world, and preach this gospel to every creature,”’ declaring: ‘‘I am with you 
 alway, even unto the end of the world.” The Christianity of the age is vital. It has greater power among men than at its genesis. Its promises have 
 been fulfilled through the centuries. The civilization of which it is the basis and directing force, is the dominating civilization of the world to-day. The 
 Book which records the marvels of His life, who ‘‘ spake as never man spake,’’ was never studied so critically, thoroughly and enthusiastically as now. 
 Biblical research is the passion of the age. To it Philology, studies in Comparative Religion and Ethics, and Archeology—with spade and magnifying 
 glass—pay constant tribute. The careful student of language, the Biblical exegete, the popular preacher, the Bible class teacher, the private unofficial 
 Christian, turn eager eyes toward these sacred regions, to see every discovery that may shed further light on the Book of Books, and on the life of Him, 
 who, as the ages go by, occupies a larger place in the civilization of our planet. 
 War, pestilence, earthquake, and all the sources of devastation which, through the centuries, have swept over the eastern world, have removed 
 many landmarks, and destroyed immense quantities of valuable material. But in the Far East, and especially in Palestine, the contour of the country 
 remains. Jerusalem still stands on her high hills, with the valleys of Hinnom and Jehoshaphat round about; with Olivet to the east, and beyond Olivet 
 the desolations of Judea, and below Judea the Ghér, and the salt waters of the Dead Sea, while beyond them rise in majesty the mountains of Moab, 
 hat stretch out in vast tablelands towards the Euphrates. Ebal and Gerizim still stand in the center of Western Palestine; and there, too, is the Plain 
 f Esdraelon, with Tabor and Gilboa, with Nazareth and Tiberias beyond. There, too, rise Hermon—the snow-crowned—and the lofty Lebanon, while at 
 he base of Anti-libanus, amidst the flowing waters of Abana and Pharpar, stands the Pearl of the East, the mother of all cities—the ancient Damascus. 
 The ages have not materially changed the climate of Palestine. Still the heavy dews fall, the early rain and the later rain come down in 
 heir appointed seasons. The hot wind blows from the south and the north wind brings strength and gladness. The fields are still, in their season, 
 white unto the harvest; and from the sea come mist and clouds, the rain, the hail and tempest. It is the old land, the same to-day as in the past 
 yesterdays. 
 
 as 
 
 aod 
 
 ct 
 
 The manners and customs of this Eastern country have not been changed. People dress and eat and sleep and live and labor as they did two 
 thousand years ago. The scenes of the Bible are reproduced with startling fidelity to the old record. One may find feasting and funeral, seed-sowing 
 and harvest, elders in the gate and veiled women, grass on the housetops, sparrows seeking their nests in holy places, the grass of the field that to-day 
 is and to-morrow is cast into the oven. The old customs and costumes remain. 
 The general scenic features of Palestine render it interpretative of Biblical events and shed light upon difficulties which, but for the perpetuity 
 of its features, would have been unsolvable problems. Every traveler through Palestine discovers and makes report of these features and finds his faith 
 ‘in the Book confirmed. It is this feature which renders so valuable the contribution of the present volume to the illustration of Biblical history. The 
 perfection of photographic art is reached in the production of this book. The land is brought within the purview of every reader. Here, in the fine 
 atmosphere of the Syrian skies, are presented hills, mountains, valleys, plains, water-courses, ruins, towns, cities, fountains, fields, mosques, churches, 
 beasts of burden, flowers of the field, and whatsoever else the sun can copy on the sensitive plate hidden in the camera. 
 
 The student is invited to the turning of its pages as to a walk through picture galleries and museums, with the hope by its editors and 
 publishers that the ‘Land of all Lands’’ and the ‘‘ Book of all Books’? may gain, through this pleasant ministry, a firmer hold on head and heart than 
 ever before. 
 
 The journey made by Dr. James W. Lee and Mr. Robert E. M. Bain in the interest of this work in 1894, it was my pleasure to make twice, 
 the first time in 1863 and again in 1887. The new and charming photographs furnished by the last pilgrimage of Dr. Lee and Mr. Bain give me the 
 sense of having made a third journey to the Holy Land. 
 
 we 
 Chautauqua, N. Y., 1894. Pthudi0tcec.t. 
 
OUTLINE HARMONY oF THE GOSPELS AND CHRONOLOGICAL INDEX. 
 
 By PERMISSION OF DR. SAMUEL J. ANDREWS, AUTHOR OF “ LIFE OF OUR LORD ON EARTH.”’ 
 
 PART I._FROM THE ANNUNCIATION TO ZACHARIAS TO THE BAPTISM OF JESUS. 
 
 DaTE PLACE. EVENT. 
 
 | 
 | 
 | “Introduction n of 
 Genealos 
 MCUs ne. Ope erusalem, ~------ J MbaaNETTTO ISTE to 7 achar s 
 i |Blizabeth conceives a son and lives in re 
 -|Annunciation to M 
 sit of Mary to Eli 
 Annunciation to Joseph, ------ 
 Birth of John the Baptist ( 
 Joseph and Mary go to Bethlehem to 
 Bicthnoteesis == 
 The Angel and the Shephe 
 _|Cireumcision of Jesu: 
 Presentation of Jesus, 
 
 Mar.-Apr., B. 
 
 June, 
 Decr,- 
 
 erusalem, - 
 
 "|Bethlehem, sit of the Wise M 
 
 [Bey ptyeeas— = ght into Egypt, -- 
 
 |Bethlehem, —_- aughter of the Innocen 
 May, - Vazareth, --_ Return to Nazareth and sojourn there,_ 
 Apr. erm salem, -|Jesus at twelv ears of age attends th 
 
 Ma 
 
 ATTHEW. 
 
 MARK. 
 
 Are D. 26. 
 
 fl | 
 Simba, — 22 files |Preaching of John the Baptist, .----------------------------------- iii. 
 
 A. D. 22. | 
 --| Baptism of Jesus 
 _-| Temptation of J 
 
 _/The Jordan, - 
 _|Desert of Juda 
 | { Bethany 
 
 | Deputation of Priests and Levites to the Bap 
 
 SE agent. \ beyond Witness of John the Baptist, 
 | Jordan, 
 | eS The first Disciples, ---- 
 Galilee, -- _..| Wedding at Cana, ah 
 
 PART Ul. —THE JUDAN | MINISTRY. 
 
 ] j 
 
 .\Jerusalem, -- | Passover, Jesus cleanses the Taw 
 | ee 4 Discourse with Nicodemus, - 
 
 \Judeea, ae |NIGs baptizes in Judeea, --- 
 
 Further testimony of John the Baptist, 
 Jesus departs into Galilee, -----..-- 
 eusconase with woman of Samaria, 
 Galilee, |Jesus comes into Galilee, ------ 
 Cana, Capern m,..| Healing of the nobleman’s son, 
 
 A few weeks spent by Jesus in retirement, - 
 
 -\Je usalem, | Passover. Healing of man at Pool of Bethesda, 
 
 PART ie FROM THE IMPRISONMENT 
 
 BAPTIST. 
 
 AN pee en |Galilee, |Jesus goes into Galilee after arrest of fone: 
 Nazareth, _-- Jesus ected at Nazareth, --- 
 Capernaum, - -|Jesus takes up His abode at Capernaum, - 
 « 
 
 Calling of Disciples, ---- ----------- 
 Healing of demoniac in Synagogue, - 
 | Healing of Peter’s wife’s mother, and many 
 
 | “ 
 
 Galilee, ~ _|Ministry in Galilee, -- 
 May, | eae _|Healing of a leper, - 
 Early Summer, Capernaum, -|Healing of a paralytic, - 
 a _-----|Calling of Levi (Matthew), 
 [Near Capernaum,-| Disciples pluck corn on the Sabbath, 
 \Galilee, - |Healing of withered hand on the Sabbath, -- 
 
 : Jesus w withdraws to seashore, --- 
 Near Capernaum,-|Choosing of the Twelve, - 
 
 Summer, === = £ ty .|Sermon on the Mount, 
 Capernaum, Healing of the Centurion’s servant, —- 
 Nain, --- = Raising of widow’s son at Nain,- 
 
 Galilee, - -(John sends his disciples to Jesus, - 
 ATG se oS _|Anointing by a woman in house of Simon, 
 cf 222 _|Jesus preaches in the cities of Galilee, -_ 
 Capernaum, .|Healing of a blind and dumb possessed man, 
 OS _|Pharisees blaspheme and seek a sign, 
 Galilee, Visit of Jesus’ mother and brethren, - 
 Sea of Ga Parable of the Sower,- 
 
 xiii, 1-23_ 
 
 22-30 - 
 81-35- 
 
 iii. 
 
 -liv. 1-25---- 
 
 i - 19, 20; iv. 
 
 ets ess see ioe Vipera 
 
IV._FROM THE IMPRISONMENT TO THE DEATH OF JOHN THE BAPTIST.—Continued. 
 
 | EVENT. 
 
 Sea of Galilee, ----| Parable of the Tares, and other 
 ip ---| The two followe 
 ee ---| Stilling of tempest 
 
 Healing of Demoniac 
 Fe at house of Ley = 
 ng of daughter of Jairus. Woman he 
 uling of two blind men. Dumb spirit c 
 scond rejection at Nazareth, -._____- 
 Sending forth of the Twelve, --____--- 
 ---| Death of Baptist. Herod’s opinion of ] 
 Capernaum, ---|Jesus returns to Capernaum, 
 
 v. 29-39 _ 
 
 _lviii. 40-56__ 
 
 Ss 
 
 PART V.—FROM THE DEATH OF THE BAPTIST TO THE FINAL DEPARTURE FROM GALILEE. 
 
 Aprile eeeaa = aoe | Cap eniia ttn vemamers Return of the Twelve 
 3ethsaida, -- -| Crossing of the sea, and f 
 |Sea of Galilee, walks upon the sea, 
 |Gennesaret, ~--___ eals many at Gennesare 
 \Capernaum, - -| Discourse in Synagogue, 
 | 6 -| Disciples eat with unwashen hand 
 
 S|vians0 =e 
 
 f\Region of Ty 
 
 Summer, ---_-_ ia Mertcacion Healing of daughter of Syrophcenician woman, 
 Decapolis, ~ ling of deaf and dumb man, and others, - 
 fe 3 CGlibiales Cope Wyovooy Geese 
 |Capernaum, -| Pha ain seek a sign, -- 
 |Sea of Galilee,.__] Disciples warned against the leay 
 S Blind man healed, --_________ 
 Oct. 11-18, _-_- esus at the feast of Tabernacles, - 
 Ps The woman taken in adultery], 
 reaching of Jesus. Attempt to 
 _ Healing of a man born blind, 
 ae -| Discourses. Jesus the Good Shepherd, 
 CRUE ie gieaals) wo) (Cry biilees 
 Ati turn, eee { | Philippi, j| Peter and the Disciples confess their faith, _____________--__-_------ ee viii. 27-33 
 | ab esus addresses the people, -|xvi. 24-28___ vili. 34-i 
 Mt. Hermon, ..--_|The Transfiguration, ______ i, 1-9_ 
 s é esus explains the coming of E i. 10-13___ 
 fe | Healing of the possessed boy, - 14-21 ___ 
 Galilee v= esus foretells his d 2, 23 
 \Capernaum, Tribute-money miraculously provided, ___ z 5 24-27 == 
 
 INov:-Decearas === Galilee = —=—=aaee | Final departure from Galilee, 
 Samaria, --_-_____| Jesus rejected in Samaria 
 Galilee, - -| The half-hearted disciple, -- 
 Perzea, - -| The Seventy sent forth,________ 
 se -|Jesus follows, teaching 
 -|Return of the Seventy 
 -| Parable of the Good Samaritan, _ 
 ples taught how to pray, -- 
 Healing of a blind and dumb po 
 Blasphemy of Pharise Discou 
 Feast at Pharisee’s hov Woes upon Pha 
 Discourse. Parable of Rich Fool 
 |Parable of the Barren Fig-tree,- 
 Healing of infirm woman on the Sabbath, 
 Parables of the Mustard Seed and the Leaven, 
 m J Jesus goes teaching and journeying towards 
 Sig Via \h Is warned against Herod, 
 |Bethany, __ | Jesus visits Mary and Martha 
 Dec: 20:2 7,e52s2—— |Jerusalem, Feast of Dedication. Discourses 
 Se eo en cae ace Jews attempt to stone him, 
 A. D. SO. ‘ pene } Jesus retires beyond Jordan, 
 January, 2==-==— Perea, 
 
 «“ 
 
 Jerusalem. | 
 
 |Dines with a Pharisee. Heals a man with drops 
 Parable of the Great Uppers 
 What is required of true disciple 
 Parables of Lost Sheep, and Lost Piece of Silver, _ 
 -| Parable of the Prodigal Son, ___ 
 RarablevohthecUnjustiSteward) -aemesn ee se meine les lt nn mmm Lane | ann eI MnIGIEES -|xvi. 1-18___ 
 
PART VI._THE LAST JOURNEY FROM GALILEE, AND THE PERHZAN MINISTRY, TO THE ARRIVAL AT BETHANY.—Continwed. 
 
 PLACE. | EVENT. MatTrHrw. | MARK. LUKE. | JOHN. 
 January, --=----—- Perea, -- _|Pharisees reproved. Parable of the Rich Man and Lazarus. 
 jirte -| Jesus instructs the Di = 
 Jan.-Feb., -------- Bethany .|Raising of Lazarus, ---- 
 Bethany _| Counsel of Jews to put Jesus todeath. He retires to Ephraim, - 
 
 Feb.—Mar., ------- | Ephraim, - Sojourns in Ephraim till Passover is at hand, 
 | Bor. of Samaria,__|‘Ten lepers cleansed, --~--------------- 
 Perea, _|The coming of the Kingdom of God 
 
 oe _|Parables—the Unjust Judge, Pharisee and Publican 
 
 ss mierecep yncerning divorce, -----~-------- 
 bis Jesus eives and blesses little children, - 13-16 -- 
 ue The rich young man, - mel oils 
 
 Parable of Laborers in the Vineyard 
 Jesus again foretells His death, - 
 s Ambition of James and John,- 
 
 Near Jericho, Healing of blind men,-- e 
 Jericho, -- Zaccheeus receives Jesus, --- S 
 a a Parable of the Pounds, ~--------------- 
 
 Mareh, -s<2==-=-= 
 
 “PART VIL—FROM THE ARRIVAL AT BETHANY TO THE RESURRECTION 
 
 Fri., Mar. 31, 
 
 | 
 
 \Jesus comes to Bethany 
 Sat., Apr. 1 ze ‘Anointing by Mary, - 
 Sun., Apr Jerusalem, - | Entry into Jerusalem, visit to Temple, and return to Bethany, 
 Mon., Apr. 3, Mt. of Olives, ----|Cursing of the barren fig-tree, ---------------------- 
 
 Bethany, --- 
 “ 
 
 bal, Sek) — se eS 
 xi. 20-26 
 
 xi. 27-33 
 
 Jerusalem, ------- Cleansing of the Temple. Return to Bethany, 
 
 Tues., Apr. 4,----- Mt. of Olives, ----|The fig-tree withered, 
 
 Temple at | 
 
 Jerusalem, J 
 “ 
 
 peers |Christ’s authority questioned, - 
 
 Parable of the Two Sons, --- 
 \Parable of the Wicked Husbandmen, 3 = 
 Parable of the Marriage of the King’s Son, - 
 ss Pharisees question Jesus about tribute, --- ii, 1552 <ii. 18 ra 
 Sadducees question about the resurrection, - 27 x. 27. 2 
 Lawyer questions about the great Commandment, 
 lJesus asks: What think ye of Christ ?- 
 Condemnation of Scribes and Pharisees 
 “f 5 .|Lamentation over Jerusalem, 
 |The widow’s mite, ---- <i. 6 x 
 Greeks seek Jesus. Discourse, ----------------- 2 
 Prophecy of overthrow of the Temple and end of 
 _|Parable of the Ten Virgi 
 
 «“ 
 
 Mt. of Olives, 
 « « 
 
 ie ss _|Parable of the Talents 
 ss _\The Last Judgment, -- 
 A. D- BSO- Jerusalem, ------- |Plotting of rulers. Bargain of Juc 
 Wed., Apr. 5,----- Bethany, --- Jesus seeks retirement, ---~-------- 
 Thur., Apr. 6, ----|Jerusalem, Preparation for the Passover, - 
 
 “ 
 
 Arrival at the upper room, 
 fs Strife for precedence, ---~ 
 ee Jesus washes the feet of His di 
 The Paschal Supper, --- 
 esus declares the betrayer. 
 uC Institution of the Lord’s Supper, 3 ets 
 ee a \Jesus foretells the fall of Peter, - xxii. 31-38 
 Farewell Discourse of Jes: 
 Intercessory Prayer of Jesus, ---- 
 esus goes forth. Peter’s confidenc: 
 The agony in the garden of Gethsemane, - 
 |The betrayal, - 
 |Dhe-artest, --- 
 esus led to An 
 \Jesus before Caiaphas, ------ 
 esus before the Sanhedrin, 
 Denials:of Peter, -------_--==== 
 \Jesus mocked by his enemies, - 
 
 Mt. of Olives, 
 “ 
 
 Midnight, ee ee GG 
 
 Fri.,Apr.7,1-5a.M.,|Jerusalem, - 
 c 
 
 “ 
 
 “ 
 
 “ 
 
 robK | 5 4 
 5- Gra Misrseoses = oh _------|Meeting of the Sanhedrin. Jesus condemned for blasphemy, - 
 
 se oe Death of Judas, 
 se \Jesus before Pilate; charged with sedition, - 
 esus sent to Herod, ---- 
 
 xix. 16-18 - 
 
 -|xix. 19-22 - 
 
 QAP ME oe aa ae ES ie tee ret Jesus is led away to be crucified, 
 
 +25, 27; 28 --- 
 26 
 
 _.|The superscription, 
 Ree word from the cross ather, forgive them”’ 
 
 Soldiers cast lots for His garments, 
 
HE PILGRIMS.— With Bonar we sing: ‘‘ Now for the journey girded we hasten 
 on our way,’’ We are not Crusaders of the middle ages but simply explorers of an 
 old land in a new age and inspired by a lofty purpose, We have no scheme of con- 
 quest by which scepter shall be exchanged for scepter. We are students of 
 
 Nature, of Man, of History, and students now of the most interesting and hallowed of all 
 
 the Lands on Earth. We come to trace the earthly steps of the Founder of our Christian 
 
 faith, and of His great Apostle—the Apostle whom He appointed to proclaim to Arabia 
 to Western Asia and to Europe, and to all races, of all ages, the great ideas of the Divine 
 
 Revelation. We have to do chiefly with the land of Syria—the mid-land, with Asia on the 
 
 one hand and on the other Africa and Europe and the Mediterranean—that gate-way to 
 
 the Western and modern world. Syria has been for ages a pathway between the East and 
 the West, ‘‘the high road of civilization; * * an open channel of war and commerce 
 for nearly the whole world.’”? In this day pilgrimages are made from every part of the 
 Jewish and Christian world to this important geographical, historical and religious center. 
 Our first study must be the.outline of the region which Joseph and Mary traversed between 
 the Annunciation in Nazareth and the Birth of the wonderful Babe in Bethlehem. With 
 them we go to the home of John the Baptist; returning to Nazareth, making a second pil- 
 grimage to the South, passing Shunem, Jezreel, Dothan, Shechem, Mount Ebal, looking 
 down from Mt. Scopus on the North on the Holy City of Jerusalem, and resting for a 
 time in Bethlehem, the city of David, the birthplace of Jesus. 
 
 oe 
 
BAPTIST. — Before Jesus of Nazareth came John of Judea. He came as the 
 Forerunner of Jesus. He was a man of force and courage. He was self-controlled 
 and yet impetuous; a man of utter righteousness and fidelity; ‘like a burning 
 torch; his public life was quite an earthquake ; the whole man was a sermon; he might 
 
 © Perr VIEW OF THE BIRTHPLACE OF JOHN THE 
 
 well call himself a ‘Voice.’”’ In the picture above we have the sweep of the Judean 
 
 Mountains — the fine graceful outline of their distant summits against the sky, the shorter 
 curves of the lower and nearer range, the nearest elevation being the “eccentric water- 
 shed’? of which Mr. Tyrwhitt Drake, of the Palestine Exploration Fund, speaks; ‘ which 
 beginning at the head of Wady Suleiman, passing Lifta and Ain Karim, eventually reaches 
 
 the Mediterranean near Yabneh.”” Ain Karim signifies the “ fountain of vineyards.”” The 
 terraced hills are in the spring time full of verdure. The village has a population of about 
 six hundred. ‘The Franciscan monks have built one of the finest convents in Palestine to 
 mark this sacred place—the home of Zacharias and Elizabeth, the birthplace of John the 
 Baptist, and the retreat in which Mary found a temporary home, and where she sang her 
 song—the MAGNIFICAT: «My Soul Doth Magnify the Lord.” ‘The song of a woman 
 announced the Messiah’s approach ; the song of the angels, His arrival. The lovelyJudean 
 landscape before us, with hills and valleys, terraced vineyards and far-away mountains, is. 
 a fitting temple for this glorious Hymn of praise sung under these skies by Mary, the 
 Mother of Our Lord. 
 
 1 
 
AZARETH FROM THE ESPLANADE OF THE ENGLISH 
 
 y ORPHANAGE.—From Ain Karim in the hills of Judea we pass seventy 
 miles to the northward to the home of Mary on the uplands of Galilee. From the 
 
 roof of the EF sh Orphanage we look down upon the beautiful town of Nazareth, 
 
 a place of ill repute in the olden time, but now, next to Bethlehem and Jerusalem, the 
 most sacred of all the cities in the world, because here for nearly thirty years the life of 
 our Lord was spent. The town has grown rapidly in recent y: the raids of the Bedouin 
 from the East having driven many Christian families on the plains of Esdraelon to the 
 and hills of Nazareth. Here, too, the various religious societies have gathered: 
 
 valley 
 Latin, Maronite, Greek, English, ete. The English Orphanage, on the roof of which we 
 
 stand in the survey of Nazareth, is a substantial structure of stone built by English money 
 through German labor under the direction of ‘‘ The Society for Female Education in the 
 East.” It is capable of accommodating two hundred girls. What a lesson of grace is 
 Nazareth itself to the heart of man, for His indwelling lifts the lowliest life into dignity and 
 honor! What office more beautiful than that of ministering in Nazareth to the bodily 
 
 and spiritual needs of orphans! What touching suggestions are started concerning child- 
 hood in the village where the loveliest of all children lived through his wonderful boy- 
 hood! ‘The Orphanage is one of the ten thousand blessed results of His life who came to 
 save humanity, and whose own lips spake the sweet words: ‘‘ Suffer the little children 
 and forbid them not to come unto me, for of such is the kingdom of heaven.” 
 
 —I3— 
 
and 
 
 Joseph passed on their way from Nai ereth to Bethlehem was the old town of 
 Shunem, the beautiful gardens of which spread out before our view in the photo- 
 
 @ © GARDENS OF SHUNEM.—Annng the lovely spots which Mar, 
 ® 
 
 graph above. Shunem, now called Solam or Sfilem, stands in a little nook at the foot of 
 Jebel ed Duhy (Little Hermon). Its beautiful and well-watered gardens are surrounded by 
 hedges of prickly-pear and filled with orange, lemon, pomegranate, fig and olive trees. 
 Beehives abound, the ceaseless humming filling the warm and fragrant air. There are now 
 about two hundred families in this old Shunem. Mary and Joseph probably passed a 
 nooning hour, or with the pilgrims spent the night in this place. What memories must 
 have come to them of Gideon and his struggle with the Midianites ; of Saul and his hosts 
 
 on the side of Gilboa, not far away, and especially of the dead boy of the Shunamite whom 
 Elisha brought to life, for here it was the “great woman” in Shunem said to her husband: 
 “Behold, now, I perceive that this is a holy man of God which passeth by us continually. 
 Let us make a little chamber, I pray thee, in the wall, and let us set for him there a 
 bed and a table and a stool and a candlestick ; and it shall be when he cometh to us he 
 shall turn inthither.”’ And it was a good thing for that Shunamite’s home that Elisha came. 
 Were there in Mary’s thoughts sweet memorie of the prophet, and wonderings concerning 
 a gift which she “held under her heart ’’—God’s gift to the world—a greater prophet than 
 any the world had known from Moses to Malachi? 
 
 a 
 
Mary would be reminded of the wicked life of Ahab, the son of Omri, who reigned 
 in Israel 918-897 B. C., and whose contribution to the fund of iniquity exceeded 
 that of all who had preceded him in Israel. They would remember, too, the name 
 and infamy of Jezebel, the wife of Ahab, and the daughter of Ethbaal, the King of the 
 Zidonians ; how she established the Phcenician worship in the court of Ahab and built a 
 temple and set apart a grove of Astarte in the neighborhood of Jezreel; how she supported 
 four hundred and fifty prophets of Baal and four hundred prophets of Astarte from her 
 own table. They would remember Elijah and his conflict with the prophets of Baal on 
 Carmel. At Jezreel they could perhaps have seen the very point on Mt. Carmel from 
 
 ©™ TOWER OF JEZREEL.—At Jezreel, now called Zer’in, Joseph and 
 
 which Ahab left with his chariot, when Elijah sent the message to him to get down from 
 the Mountain, And Elijah said, ‘Go up, say unto Ahab, prepare thy chariot and get thee 
 down that the rain stop thee not. sin the meanwhile that the heaven 
 was black with clouds and wind, and there was a great rain, and Ahab rode and went to 
 Jezreel, and the hand of the Lord was on Elijah; and he girded up his loins and ran before 
 Ahab to the entrance of Jezreel,”"—I. Kings, xviii: 44-46, ‘To the northwest of Jezreel, and 
 eight miles distant, is the precipitous mountain range which shuts off the view of Naza- 
 reth. Four miles to the south is Little Hermon. ‘To the southeas is Mt. Gilboa, while to 
 the west spreads the plain of Esdraelon, ‘The tower shown in our picture is thought to 
 stand on the site of the famous “watch tower in ezteela” 
 
 And it came to pa 
 
 —15— 
 
down off his chariot and fled away on his feet.’’—Judges, iv: 13-16. Here also, on the 
 6 
 
 to the Mediterranean Sea, Joseph and Mary would see the great battle field of | Here, near Jezreel, w: 
 Syria. In this plain Deborah and Barak conquered the army of Jabin under Sisera. vi: 1-33. 
 “And Sisera gathered together all his chariots, even nine hundred chariots of iron, andthe Here also, in later yea: 
 people that were with him from Harosheth of the Gentiles unto the river of Kishon. And the famous battle of Mt. Tabor between N: 
 Deborah said unto Barak: Up, for this is the day in which the Lord hath delivered we look westw: 
 Sisera into thine hand. Is not the Lord gone out before thee? So Barak went down from May, in 1894. 
 Mt. ‘Tabor and ten thousand men with him. And the Lord discomfited Sisera and all his would stop long enough for us to t 
 chariots and all his hosts with the edge of the sword before Barak, so that Sisera lighted granted his request. 
 
 > LOWING IN PLAINS OF J EZREEL.— Passing through the vast southern edge of the plain near Megiddo, Josiah, 
 J) Plain of Esdraelon, which extends across Central Palestine from the River Jordan Pharaoh Necho, King of Egypt, on his way 
 as fought the battle between Gideon 
 Here the Philistines encamped in their cor 
 rs, was the battle between Saladin and the Cr 
 
 Our dragoman 
 
 ake a photograph. 
 
 King of Judah, was defeated and slain by 
 to the Euphrates._II. Kings, xxiii: 
 and the Midianites.—Judges, 
 aflict with Saul.—I. Samuel, xxi 
 
 apoleon’s army and the Turks. 
 ard, facing Carmel and the Mediterranean. 
 
 saders, and in 1799 
 In the picture 
 We were here on the 4th of 
 asked the people, whom in the picture we see plowing, if they 
 For the usual “‘ Baksheesh”’ they 
 
ILL AT DOTHAN. —In 1863 the writer of this sketch, descending from 
 the hills of Samaria into the valley of Kubatiyeh and thence into Esdraelon, 
 noticed on the uneven plain to the west, 
 
 a dense forest of olive trees, and beyond 
 
 it a conical hill. He asked a native boy the name of the hill. Pointing to it 
 with his dark hand, the little fellow said: ‘‘Do-tan, Do-tan.’”? Sure enough we had in 
 sight the ‘‘ Dothan” of the Old Testament. Here stood the town commanding a fine view 
 of the plain. Just below the hill is a fertile valley furnishing the best pasturage of the 
 country. To this place came Joseph’s brethren to feed and guard their flocks. And hither 
 Joseph came in quest of them, under his father’s command. Here is an ancient well—the 
 
 Bir el Hufireh, the “Well of the Pit,” and beyond that a second, with a water trough. 
 
 . Tristram says: ‘Round this well Joseph’s brethren possibly sat as we did for breakfast, 
 
 talking over their bargain with the Midianites.” ‘These cisterns « are shaped,”’ says Dr. 
 W. M. Thomson, ‘like a bottle with a narrow mouth, and it is impossible for one im- 
 prisoned to extricate himself without assistance.” From one of these deep pits came the 
 plaintive cry of the lad whom his father loved and his brothers hated. With these fertile 
 fields and abundant water we are not surprised to find a mill. And it isa sign of progress 
 
 in this old land to find a mill run by steam on the borders of Esdraelon and at the base of 
 hill Dothan. 
 
 —17— 
 
ae 
 
 heen, 
 
 ae 
 
 ART OF OUR CARAVAN AT DOTHAN.— Dothan stands near to 
 the main road running southward from Galilee toward Sharon, Philistia and Egypt. 
 The place is five miles southwest of Jenin and about twelve north of Samaria. On 
 this main road arm It is the route of kings. Here Thothmes 
 
 and Necho came from the sea coast. Through the ages soldiers came down this famous path 
 
 from Parthia, Assyria, Persia, Babylonia and Syria. Turks and Crusaders trod this high- 
 way. As George Adam Smith says, “There is probably no older road in all the world than 
 that which is used by caravans from the Euphrates to the Nile, through Damascus, lilee, 
 
 Esdraelon, the Maritime Plain and Gaza.’’ From the sides of Tell Dothan the brethren of 
 
 have marched. 
 
 Joseph could see their father’s favorite approaching from the South. And they could see 
 the caravan of Midianites, merchantmen from the Hast, as they came across the Plain of 
 Did Joseph and Mary recall the boy of Hebron, his father’s love, his brothers’ 
 envy and his pitiful fate as they stopped by the road side for rest at noon-day ? And, as 
 we linger in the grove, the hill of Dothan rising above us, we hea 
 
 Esdraelon. 
 
 the echoes of the long 
 —the tread of plodding pilgrims, of invading armies, of merchantmen in caravans, 
 and recall the story of Joseph and the splendid vision granted to Elisha’s servant when the 
 army of Syria sought to arrest the prophet. 
 
 centuri 
 
 = 
 
FENCE AT DOTHAN.-— The thorny cactus abounds in Palestine. It 
 
 (2) forms a most secure fence, growing sometimes toa height of twelve feet. Beyond 
 fig trees and olive trees, pleasant vines and flagrant flowers. The man 
 in the picture with white head d1 and staff held behind him is the dragoman of 
 
 the photographic company of 1894. We linger at Dothan because, besides the memories 
 of Joseph and his brethren, there is an Old ‘Testament picture which must have been 
 recalled by Mary on her pilgrimage to Bethlehem. ‘The prophet Elisha lived here for a 
 time, and it was to Dothan that th ian King sent an army to surround and to capture 
 him. By night they came —“ horses and chariots and a great host.” And they ‘com- 
 passed the city.” In the early morning, when Elisha’s servant arose from his bed and 
 
 went forth, “behold, a host compassed the city both with horses and chariots.’’? Then the 
 prophet’s servant was afraid and he said: “‘ Alas, my master; how shall we do?” And 
 the prophet answered: ‘‘ Fear not, for they that be with us are more than they that be with 
 them. And Elisha prayed and said: Lord, I pray thee open his eyes that he may see. 
 And the Lord opened the eyes of the young man, and he saw; and behold, the mountain 
 was full of horses and chariots of fire round about Elisha.’’—IT. Kings, v: 13-18. ‘ The 
 reality of the invisible realm, of God and His angels, of life immortal, of the protecting in- 
 fluence of heaven in all the struggles and endeavors i earth —these are doctrines which 
 
 the Man of Galilee came to proclaim to the race of man. ‘These are doctrines which gave 
 strength and comfort to Mary in her pilgrimage from Nazareth to Bethlehem. 
 
 —iI9— 
 
LOCKS NEAR THE PIT INTO WHICH JOSEPH WAS 
 THROWN BY HIS BRETHREN. Another great name in Jewish 
 history was that of Joseph. He opened the way for Israel in Egypt. Though 
 sent there by the jealousy of his brethren, he never permitted their unnatural 
 
 iniquity to harden him, He continued to cherish, in the midst of the boundless pros- 
 perity which came to him, the most tender affection for his kindred in Canaan. His 
 name, and the noble life for which it stood, would come into the minds of Joseph and 
 Mary as they slowly moved amid the pasture lands of Dothan, They were now close 
 to the spot where the transaction took place which, under God’s providence, made 
 Joseph a prince in Egypt and his brethren criminals. Joseph, sent by his father to look 
 
 after the welfare of his brethren, was found by a man wandering in the field at Shechem. 
 
 “And the man asked him, saying, What seekest thou? And he said, I seek my brethren ; 
 tell me, I pray thee, where they feed their flocks, And the man said, They are departed 
 hence; for I heard them say, Let us go to Dothan, And Joseph went after his brethren 
 and found them in Dothan. And when they saw him afar off, even before he came near 
 unto them, they conspired against him to slay him. And they said one to another, Behold 
 this dreamer cometh. Come therefore and let us slay him, and cast him into some pit ; and 
 we willsay some evil beast has devoured him; and we will see what has become of his dream.”” 
 —Genesis, xxxvii: 15-20. The flocks are still feeding on the hills of Dothan, and the shep- 
 herds watching them are dressed probably in the same costume worn by the sons of Jacob. 
 
 —20— 
 
Sa 
 
 ILLARS IN SAMARIA.—Leaving Dothan and pursuing their journey for 
 twelve miles, our pilgrims would reach Samaria, a city not to be confounded with 
 the country by that name. This is a city founded by Omri, King of Israel, the 
 father of Ahab, about the year 925 B. C. Cesar Augustus gave the country to 
 
 Herod the Great, and he named the city after his royal patron, and called it Sebaste. 
 Herod placed a colony here of six thousand veterans, and made it a powerful fortress. He 
 surrounded it with a strong wall, and reserved in the center of the enclosure a sacred place, 
 in which he built a temple in honor of Augustus. The vast ruins we find here are those of 
 the palace of Herod, and a magnificent Colonnade which has been traced to the extent of 
 three thousand feet. These columns are sixteen feet high and two feet in diameter at the 
 
 base. Omri bought this hill from Shemer “ for two talents of silver, and built on the hill 
 and called the name of the city which he built after the name of Shemer, owner of the hill, 
 Samaria.”’ It was the chief city of the ten tribes for two centuries, and the seat of idolatry 
 during the whole time. Obadiah and Elisha are said to have been buried here. The city is 
 well watered, and abounds in gardens, olive groves and vineyards. Coming to the foot of 
 the magnificent hill upon which the ruins of the city of Sebaste or Samaria are found, our 
 dragoman left the main road and led us, with all our horses and baggage, through a field of 
 wheat where the stalks were higher than our heads. From the top of the hill we get a 
 splendid view of the Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 oT 
 
ALLS OF NABLOUS.— The next place of importance after leaving Samaria by Simeon and Levi. Here was the parcel of ground bought by Jacob and given as an 
 on the road from Nazareth to Bethlehem is Nablous, the ancieat Shechem. ‘Thisis inheritance to Joseph. ‘And Jacob came to Shalem, a city of Shechem, which is in the 
 seven miles south of Samaria and thirty-four miles no th of Jerusalem. The present Jand of Canaan, when he came from Padan-aram: and pitched his tent before the city. 
 
 1s, is a corruption of Neapolus, a name given to the ancient city of And hebought a parcel of a field, where he had spread his 
 
 name, Nab! tent, at the hand of the children 
 Shechem by Vesp n. ‘he natives call it Nablous because of their inability, it is said, of Hamor, Shechem’s father, for a hundred pieces of money; and he erected there an altar 
 to pronounce the letter p. It stands in the beautiful valley which divides Mt. Ebal from and called it El-Elohe-Israel.’’—Gen., xxxiii; 18-20. After the conquest Shechem fell to 
 Mt. Gerizim. It is one of the oldest and most interesting cities in Palestine. Here Abraham the lot of Ephraim, but was given to the Levites and became a city of refuge. Thi is an 
 came ‘unto the place of Shechem, unto the oaks of Moreh.  * *  * And Abram abundance of water in Shechem, and we found in this beautiful city many views as striking 
 
 passed through the land unto the place of Shechem, unto the plain of Moreh. And the as the one we give in our picture. 
 Canaanite was then in the land.”—Gen., xii: 6. Here was the scene of the revenge taken 
 —20— 
 
ie 7 SIRS sp pr SSR it Te 
 
 ARDEN CF NABLOUS.—The waters from the numerous springs which 
 
 S) rise in the town of Nablous unite to form a clear, bright stream which flows west- 
 ward toward the Mediterranean. ‘Those which rise to the east of the town 
 
 flow toward the Jordan. ‘here are said to be eighty springs in and about 
 Nablous, each having its special name. ‘he water from these springs is conveyed through 
 channels to the mosques and private residences of the city. The abundance of water 
 causes the whole valley between Ebal and Gerizim to blossom like the rose. This is the 
 paradise of Palestine. Here flourish the olive, the tig, the pomegranate, the orange, the 
 citron, the mulberry, the palm and the almond. It is even said the nightingales sing in 
 the groves. We did not hear any, but we did hear the jackals howl on the slopes of Mt. 
 Ebal. A considerable trade is carried on in wool, cotton, olive oil and soap. We were 
 
 —2. 
 
 3 
 
 A native of Nablous will 
 
 informed that there were twenty soap factories in the city, 
 sometimes make a gift of soap to a friend accompanied with the statement: “I bring you 
 soap made of the purest olive oil that your face may shine upon me,” or “I bring you 
 soap that your heart may be clean towards me.’”’ Here it was that Jotham spake his 
 parable of the fruit trees, commencing with, ‘‘ Hearken to me ye men of Shechem. ‘The 
 trees went forth on atime to anoint a King over them, and they said unto an olive tree 
 reign thou over us,” etc.—Judges, ix: 8. Our picture is taken from the foot of Mt. 
 Gerizim, which is seen sloping towards the east. The older city on this site, on which 
 Joseph and Mary looked, has long since passed away. The present city is modern, except 
 some few memorials left by the Crusaders. 
 
: 
 
 Sei 
 5 
 es 
 
 ~OUNT EBAL.—About half way between Nablous and Jacob’s Well, Mount 
 Ebal and Mount Gerizim so come together as to form a natural amphitheater. 
 Here it is supposed the children of Israel were gathered when a copy of the law 
 of Moses was written upon the twelve stones in the presence of Israel. ‘‘Then 
 Joshua built an altar to the Lord God of Israel in Mount Ebal. * * * * And he wrote 
 there upon the stones a copy of the law of Moses, which he wrote in the presence of the 
 children of Israel. And all Israel, and their elders, and officers and their judges, stood 
 on this side the Ark and on that side, before the priests, the Levites, which bear the 
 Ark of the covenant of the Lord, as well the stranger as he that was born among them; 
 
 Dae CS 
 Be 
 
 ee 
 
 Se 
 be Stee 
 
 2 
 
 Ria iS 
 
 Spat 
 ve 
 
 i 
 
 half of them over against Mount Gerizim and half of them over against Mount Ebal; as 
 Moses the servant of the Lord had commanded before, that they should bless the people 
 of Israel. And afterwards he read all the words of the law, the blessings and the cursings, 
 according to all that is written in the book of the law.’’—Joshua, viii: 30-34. The acoustic 
 properties of this valley have been tested, and it is said a man’s clear voice uttered in the 
 valley can be distinctly heard across the amphitheater formed here by Ebal and Gerizim. 
 The buildings seen in the picture are the Turkish Barracks, which stand by the roadside 
 We passed here late in the afternoon of May 3d. ‘The wayside in the spring 
 
 to Shechem. 
 of the year is illuminated with wild flowers. 
 
 —24— 
 
ERUSALEM FROM SCOPUS.~— We have no means of knowing whether 
 
 Joseph and Mary entered Jerusalem on their way to Bethlehem. They certainly 
 
 passed in sight of the Holy City. Scopus, from which our view is taken, is to 
 
 the north on the road from Nazareth to Bethlehem. We will assume that they saw 
 Jerusalem from this point. It was not the same Jerusalem we saw for the last time, as 
 we made our way to the north on May 2d, 1894, but Josephus has left on record a descrip- 
 tion of the city as it existed in the time of Herod, and it is possible for us to construct in 
 imagination the city of that time. The framework is the same to-day as it was in the 
 year5 B.C. The same hills are there: Zion, Moriah and Acra. The same valleys are 
 there: Hinnom, Tyropeon and Jehoshphat. The Temple of Herod, which was eighty-three 
 years in building, had been in course of erection for fourteen years. From Scopus 
 
 where we are standing they could have seen the ground plan of the temple, within the 
 same enclosure of thirty-five acres, where we now see in the distance the Mosque 
 of Omar. 
 “The air sublime 
 Over the wilderness and o’er the plain 
 > Till underneath them fair Jerusalem 
 The Holy City lifted high her towers ; 
 
 And higher yet the glorious temple reared, 
 
 Her pile far off appearing like a mount 
 
 Of alabaster tip’t with golden spires.’’—Mu1ron. 
 
 —25— 
 
= See ene — 2 ae 
 
 PPROACHING BETHLEHEM.—Among the hills of Judea stands Bethle- 
 hemi, about five miles south of Jerusalem, fourteen west of the Dead Sea and thirty- 
 nine east of the Mediterranean. It stands on a projecting spur of limestone 
 
 belonging to the central range of Palestine, an old town well placed for defense and 
 ina fertile region. ‘‘ Though 400 little to be placed among the families of Judah, it is the 
 finest site in the whole province. ’—G. A. Smith. On the bold eastern end of the ridge it 
 crowns stands the Church and Convent of the nativity. It looks like a great fortress and 
 commands the valley or plain of the shepherds, which runs out towards the mountains 
 of Judea on the east. The hillsides do not frown with cannon, but smile with terraces 
 
 adorned with vines and fig trees and the gray olives. 
 sing with an unknown bard the praises of this city of David: 
 
 A lovely city is old Bethlehem! We 
 
 « They speak to me of princely Tyre, that old Pheenician gem, 
 Great Sidon’s daughter of the North; but I will speak of Bethlehem ! 
 They speak of Rome and Babylon; what can compare with them ? 
 So let them praise their pride and pomp; but I will speak of Bethlehem! 
 They praise the hundred-gated Thebes, Old Mizraim’s diadem, 
 ‘The city of the Sand-girt Nile; but I will speak of Bethlehem!” 
 
 a 
 
HE WILD FLOWERS OF JUDEA.— Palestine is a land with most 
 fertile soil. In the spring time, after the blessing of the early rain, it is robed with 
 grasses and flowers. It is a land of terraced hill-sides and was quite sufficient to 
 feed the teeming population of the historic times. It is illuminated in the spring of 
 
 the year with wild flowers that run up the mountains, climb the valleys, peep from the 
 
 crevices of the rocks, contest with wheat for standing ground in the fields and seem bent on 
 
 claiming everything, and occupying with their beauty every square inch of vacant soil. It 
 has been poetically declared that flowers are the alphabet of angels. Flowers in Palestine 
 
 -grace with their blooming radiance most desolate and unseemly places. 
 
 They almost grow 
 
 upon gray and barren bowlders. They stand in regiments and platoons in the depths of 
 
 great gullies which the winter rains wash out. They utilize every spot to advertise to 
 passers-by the great love of the good God for Palestine. Now and then a spare acre of soil is 
 all ablaze with scarlet poppies. Sometimes on the sides of the mountains white blossoms 
 touched with red look like a field of snow on which great drops of blood have fallen. 
 These nurslings of the sky were the companions of our Saviour on earth. They smile in the 
 spring time on the hills of Bethlehem where he was born, they bloom in Gethsemane 
 whence he went to the cross. 
 
We enter the Church of the Nativity, which is known as the Church of St. Mary. 
 It is situated in the western part of Bethlehem, overlooking a beautiful valley. The 
 or a prison than a 
 They stand in 
 ‘There was 
 
 © * ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY.— 
 
 church and its neighboring convents seem more like a fortr 
 sanctuary. We enter the church from the west. Its doors are heay 
 an archway of stone not exceeding four feet in height and are very narrow. 
 a time, and there have been many times in Palestine, when it was perilous to enter 
 The Church of St. Mary is the property of three leading sects— 
 It is a very ancient structure, but has 
 Tradition 
 
 this sacred edifice. 
 the Greeks, the Latins and the Armenians. 
 undergone many changes and restorations during the centuries of its history. 
 
 carries us back to the third century, and trustworthy tradition finds a church built 
 here by Constantine in the Sixth Century. It is said that the mother of Constantine, 
 the Empress Helena, persuaded her son to erect this building over the spot where 
 the Savior was born. It is built in the shape of a Latin cross. The nave and side aisles 
 are formed by lofty columns of reddish, white-veined limestone. The capitals are 
 Corinthian, and from the base to the top each pillar measures about nineteen feet. 
 There are fragments of ancient mosaics to be found here and there on the walls. In 
 this picture we have an excellent view of the church—plain, simple, stately, ancient, 
 with stone pavements, and beyond the screen we can see the upper part of the cross 
 over the great altar. 
 
HE ALTAR OF THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. —The 
 altar on which we now look is very elegant. Its decorations and the lamps which are 
 suspended over and about it are of immense value, and are chiefly the gifts of dis- 
 
 Very natu- 
 
 tinguished folk of kings and queens from various parts of the world. 
 rally the worshipers who hold the sacred right to conduct religious service in this place 
 put great emphasis upon the precise spot of the birth of Christ. We all do this for one 
 reason or another. Some hallow such places through the natural and reasonable habit of 
 connecting event and place, the significance of the one giving a certain charm and asancti- 
 fied and interpretative value to the other. Others emphasize place because of a conviction 
 that the place itself has potential value, a sort of a talismanic power not unlike she grace 
 
 It is the latter which gives the ritualistic church such an inter 
 places. It is the former which accounts for the interest of the Protestant or E 
 and Tiberal churches. Both love to visit Palestine. One from the supposed benefit of 
 actual contact with a sacred thing or place, the other because of its scientific aud senti- 
 mental influence. Christ w The devout earnestly believe that it 
 was in the cavern or grotto just under this high altar that this great event took place. 
 Naturally we would expect the birth of Christ to take place at Nazareth, the home of Mary 
 and Joseph, but there was a prophesy of Micah: “ But thou O Bethlehem, Ephrata, though 
 thou be little among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me 
 that is to be ruler in Israel.” And here at Bethehem Christ was born. 
 
 of a sacrament. 
 
 s born in Bethlehem. 
 
wa SDS setecaad, acicnaianalns sctin aat tase 
 
 ic as 2 al tea ig Rt 
 
 NTRANCE TO GROTTO IN THE CHURCH 
 OF THE NATIVITY.— Beneath the high altar of the 
 Church of the Nativity is the grotto in which it was supp sed that 
 Christ born. ‘Two stair cases lead down to the church from 
 this sacred recess. One of the stairways belongs to the Greeks, 
 the other to the Armenians, Christ, ac ag to the Scriptures, was 
 born inastable, ‘Tradition asserts and custom corroborates the asser- 
 tion that caverns were sometimes used as stables. Therefore, it is not 
 i e that in this or in some other cavern stable of Bethlehem 
 Jesus was born. For many reasons many wise men greatly doubt the 
 tif any pious soul can find comfort in the thought as he 
 enters this place and descending the steps to this grotto feels that he is 
 approaching the precious spot of earth on which Mary rested when the 
 
 babe of Bethlehem was born, why should we by argument or specu 
 tion disturb his faith? Let us descend the steps. The place is dimly 
 lighted by thirty-two lamps. The crypt is about forty feet long f 
 east to west, twelve feet wide and about ten feet high. What crowds 
 ims from all parts of the world pass! Unbelievers and 
 sceptics, priests of many churches, tourists who are indiffe 
 to all sacred things as such, but who impelled by curiosity hasten 
 to this sacred center. ‘Treasures are brought from all parts of 
 the world and deposited here. Expensive lamps of silver and 
 gold are suspended and there is constantly a light in this 
 place, The carving is elaborate. The air is burdened with 
 odors not most refreshing but somewhat relieved by the fragrance 
 of incense. 
 
HE PLACE OF THE MANGER IN THE GROTTO.—We now 
 and in the tto already described. Above us is the altar of the church, before 
 where fi are suspended, six belonging to the Greeks, five to 
 the Arme Latins. And in the floor c 
 
 placed in the pay “TTic de 
 Natus Here let all prejudices for the moment yan 
 manner of the worship Whatever else they beli 
 the Man, the Deity incarnate. 
 kindest, b: 
 
 us a reces een lamp 
 
 ans and four to th the re Iver star is 
 gine Maria Jesus Christus 
 sh, and let us observe the reverent 
 ve in th , the Babe, 
 May the world come to acknowledge him as the purest, 
 dest, most prudent and most consistent of all her teachers! And let our 
 
 ment of which are th words 
 
 y believe in Chri 
 
 doubts vanish as we too pay tribute, not in light or inc 
 but in love and faith and vows of alle 
 
 no sect or denomination, it is the property of the 
 
 and his ice! This grotto belong 
 Christian world, so that Christi 
 
 stians of every name may come and recall the gift to humanity 
 that here appeared in the fc 
 
 a child. One of the Sultan’s 
 guard in this holy shrine to keep order among God’ 
 this passage another altar has been erected in commeme 
 
 minand of Herod. Other pas: 
 s buried. 
 
 antly on 
 ude and untrained children. In 
 tion of the children put to death 
 by the c various caverns. Here is one where 
 Jerome 
 
 res lead to 
 
s 
 
 e- 
 
 ree dae 
 esate 
 
 after the birth of Christ the ceremony of circumcision took place, when he received 
 the name of Jesus. 
 
 © « MOSQUE OF OMAR FROM THE SOUTH .—©r the eighth day 
 
 Forty days after his birth the family went from Bethlehem to 
 
 Jerusalem to present him in the temple in accordance with the requirements of the 
 Jewish law. It is probable that the ceremony of the redemption of the first born son and 
 that of the purification of the mother both took place at this time. The first pilgrimage, 
 therefore, of the little wanderer was to Jerusalem—a sleeping babe in his mother’s arms. It 
 was a journey of five or six miles. The Mosque of Omar is to-day on the site of the old 
 Jewish Temple. As you look from one of the southern gates of the city you see the dome 
 of the Mosque rise beyond. 
 
 We shall visit it again and again during our journey in the 
 
 Bast. We shall study the area of thirty-five acres on which the Mosque stands and recall 
 some of the associations in connection with it, for it is here, according to tradition, that 
 Melchisedec offered sacrifice and that Abraham presented Isaac as an offering to God, and 
 here was the threshing floor of Araunah the Jebusite, and here the Moslems say 
 that their prophet Mohammed prayed, declaring that ‘a prayer from this spot is 
 worth a thousand prayers elsewhere.” It was on this visit of Jesus and Mary 
 and Joseph that they met in the temple that ‘just man’’ whose name was 
 Simeon, who taking the infant in his arms praised God and said: ‘‘Lord, now 
 lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word: For mine eyes have 
 seen thy salvation.” 
 
HE ROAD FROM JERUSALEM TO BETHLEHEM.—tThe 
 
 © Holy Family returned from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. How long they remained 
 at Bethlehem, and how they lived while there, we do not know. It wa: metime 
 between this and the day of their departure for Egypt that the Wise Men arrived in 
 Jerusalem from the Far East asking the question which was strange and startling tidings 
 to Herod and to the people of Jerusalem. They came saying: “Where is He that is born 
 King of the Jews ? for we have seen His star in the Eas , and are come to worship Him.” 
 Herod gathered the chief priests and scribes together and learned from them that Bethle- 
 hem. was to be the birth-place of the Messiah according to the prophet ; and he then sent 
 the Wise Men to make further inquiry concerning the child and then to report the result of 
 
 their investigation to him. And “when they had heard the king, they departed ; and, lo, 
 the star, which they saw in the East, went before them, till it came and stood over where 
 the young child was.’ Our view above of the present road to Bethlehem is very fine, as 
 it presents the present appearance of the highway from the Jaffa gate to the gate of Bethle- 
 hem. When the writer went from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, in 1863, he was compelled to 
 ride on horseback, there being neither carriage road nor carriage in the land of Palestine. 
 In 1887 we found a broad and smooth macadamized road on which were carriages, and 
 horses, mules and camels, men and women, all making a very busy scene. The picture 
 looks toward the south. We stand just outside the Jaffa gate on the west. 
 are the hills of Judea. 
 
 Beyond us 
 
HE TOMB OF RACHEL.—Between Jerusalem and Bethlehem, on the way 
 © to Bethlehem, one of the most interesting spots is that made sacred by an incident 
 from the Old ‘Testament. When Jacob was on his return from Padan-Aram with 
 
 his flocks and family his beloved Rachel, mother of Joseph and Benjamin, died 
 
 and ‘was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem, and Jacob set up a pillar 
 upon her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel’s grave unto this day.’ This is an almost 
 undisputed site. Jews, Moslems and Christians all agree that here Rachel was entombed. 
 The pillar Jacob set up has long since disappeared, but some mark has marked the spot 
 for thirty-six hundred years. The present square structure, surmounted by a central dome, 
 is modern. It measures twenty-three feet on each side. The height of the wall is twenty 
 
 feet and the dome is ten feet high. The eastern chamber is twenty-three feet long by 
 thirteen feet broad. he inner chambers are used by the Jews, who meet here every 
 Friday to pray, and a few years ago Sir Moses Montifiore repaired this building. It was 
 alittle later in the history of Jesus that Herod, after the visit of the Wise Men, issued 
 his cruel order demanding the slaying of all the children from two years old and under, 
 ‘The great grief which was caused to the mothers of that region recall ihe words of the 
 “Thus saith the Lord, a voice was heard in Rama, iamentation 
 chel weeping for her children, refused to be comforted for her 
 The babes of Bethlehem died, but the Babe of 
 
 Prophet Jeremiah: 
 and bitter weeping, R: 
 children because they were not.” 
 Bethlehem lived. 
 
ae x 
 
 BER: 
 See 
 
 eae 
 ee 
 
 GLIMPSE OF SOLOMON’S POOLS.—From Bethlehem Joseph, Mary 
 and the Babe went to Egypt to escape the cruel decree of Herod. ‘The history 
 of Egypt is interwoven with the Jewish history. Once the Israelites were 
 pilgrims and fugitives from Egypt to Canaan; now the true King of the 
 Israelites, the King of kings, is pilgrim and fugitive from Canaan to Egypt. 
 family probably journeyed southward pa 
 do to-day in going to the south-east. 
 
 The holy 
 ing through the narrow valley, as one would 
 On the way he would pass the pools of Solo- 
 mon, which still remain. They are called by the Arabs El Burak—‘‘ The Pools.’ Near 
 the pools is a large castellated building called Awlat el Burak. It stands near the 
 north-west corner of the upper pool. “the Great Tanks 
 
 Condor calls these reservoirs 
 
 near Urtas,”’ and says that though they are commonly called ‘‘Solomon’s Pools they 
 are more probably of the same date with the 
 was constructed by Pontius Pilate.’ Dr. Robinson speaks of them as the ‘“‘ Vast Reser- 
 voirs of El Burak.’”? Dr. Thompson says: ‘‘They are worthy of Solomon, and that is 
 the highest commendation I can think of at present. ‘hey are certainly immense 
 reservoirs, and all the more impressive in this utter solitude where there are no 
 similar structures with which to compare them or to divide the interest which they 
 
 ” 
 
 aqueduct passing by them which 
 
 inspire.” From the life and the lips of the pilgrim Babe, now bound for Egypt, 
 shall one day come rivers of living water to refresh and gladden the nations 
 
 of the earth! 
 
HE ENTRANCE TO THE GARDEN OF THE VIRGIN AT 
 MATARIYEH.—We have at last reached the land of Egypt and are in a 
 garden a few miles to the north-east of Cairo. The Egyptian vegetation is in 
 
 sight. ‘To the left and over the wall in the front, we see specimens of the 
 
 cactus. ‘Tradition has associated this place with the visit of the Virgin Mary and the 
 
 Babe Jesus. We recall the earlier visits of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, and can never 
 
 forget that in this very neighborhood Joseph lived. Concerning the life of Jesus in 
 
 Egypt, we know nothing, for the Scriptures say nothing. We do not know how long 
 
 he was here, nor where he lived while here. ‘Tradition locates him and his mother in 
 
 the neighborhood of On, the old Heliopolis as the Greeks call it. The garden of 
 
 Matariyeh once produced balsam —the famous balsam of Gilead. The balsam is not 
 It is said that at one time all the plants or trees producing it were 
 removed to Arabia, near Mecca. This region about Matariyeh is very fertile. Cotton 
 s in this neighborhood; orange groves are not far away; at a short distance is an 
 ostrich farm kept by a Frenchman. A few miles away is the great Cairo with which 
 this suburb is connected by telegraph and telephone. Matariyeh has resounded more 
 than once with the rms and the thunder of cannon. It was here in 1800 
 that the Turks under the Grand Vizier, with sixty thousand men, met the French under 
 General Kleber, but the Frenchman was too much for the Turk. Near us is the Nile; a 
 
 grown here now. 
 
 few miles away, the Pyramids. 
 
curious tradition that the holy family in their flight were pursued even as far as 
 this point by the soldiers of Herod. Unable longer to escape their swift pursuers 
 they approached this tree, when all at once it miraculously opened and into its 
 embrace Joseph, Mary and Jesus were received, the tree at once closing up to protect 
 these servants of the Lord. Others state that it was under this tree that the holy 
 family rested for atime during their journey. It is an old tree, very old and once very 
 handsome, but, old as it is, it is a tree very much too young to have harbored or 
 sheltered the pilgrims from Bethlehem. ‘Tradition and superstition have rendered 
 
 © « TREE OF THE VIRGIN AT MATARIYEH. —There is a 
 
 it an object of general interest, and it has been so damaged by tourists that its 
 
 owner has been compelled to surround it by a fence. ‘The ancient name of Matariyeh 
 was ‘On,’’ in the Greek ‘Heliopolis,’ in the Hebrew ‘‘Beth-Shemesh,’”? and the 
 word Matariyeh (Ma-ta-ra) means the same as the Hebrew and Greek — the House 
 of the Sun. Here was the Temple of the Sun with its priests and services, where 
 Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potiphera. Moses was educated here, and 
 here, later on, Plato was a student, but in course of time vandals from Europe robbed 
 the place and destroyed its beauty. Vet for centuries afterwards it was under priestly 
 protection. There is something very interesting in treading the very land where 
 Moses himself lived as a student and as a royal favorite. Here at Heliopolis were 
 laid the foundations of his learning. 
 
COFFEE-HOUSE IN THE GARDEN OF THE VIRGIN AT 
 MATARIYEH.—the scene before us is characteristic. Here is the roof of 
 reeds* giving welcome shelter from the Egyptian sun, The ground is paved 
 with its delicate m ht. Here stands the laden camel 
 and his Arab driver, and here a dog of the Orient. We have in the little tables and 
 European chairs indications of the European influence. Natives would sit on mats to 
 sip their coffee, smoke their Egyptian pipes, lounge lazily through the heat of the day, 
 and in the shades of the evening indulge in gossip, tell strange stories, like those of the 
 “Arabian Nights,” recounting the deeds and eulogizing the prowess of the ancients. 
 Not far away is the Riyer Nile, and one recalls the words of Heber in one of his 
 
 ic of shade and sunlig 
 
 songs of Egypt: 
 
 ‘Twas silence all; the s 
 
 Save where the locust trill’d her feeble song, 
 
 Or blended soft in drowsy cadence fell, 
 
 The waye’s low whisper or the camel’s bell.” 
 A lovely land is this land of Egypt. A traveler writes: The bright and sunny sky of 
 Egypt is in itself an incentive to cheerfulness-and pleasure which, combined with ‘the 
 amount of healthy open air exercise necessary to attain the enjoyment of sight-seeing, 
 cannot fail to produce favorable results whenever that is possible. Indeed, in all cases 
 where a dry and bracing air, bright sunshine, freed from rain and atmospheric impurities, 
 
 irkling sands along, 
 
 are to be desired, the Egyptian winter’s climate claims an important, if not the most 
 important, place,” 
 
le 
 
 HE OBELISK AT HELIOPOLIS.— Where once the immense and 
 magnificent Temple of the Sun stood there are found nowa few mounds, the remains 
 of walls and this solitary obelisk, erected from one thousand seven hundred to two 
 thousand four hundred years before Christ in the reign of Usertsen I. It is sixty-two 
 
 feet four inches high above the level of the ground, sixty 
 
 x feet six inches in height above 
 the pavement. These obelisks are expr 
 
 ions of old religious faiths as well as memorials 
 of distinguished men under whose direction they were erected. The obelisks of the 
 Pharaohs are of red granite, called syenite. An unfinished obelisk is even now to be seen 
 in the quarries at syene ‘‘still adhering to the native rock with traces of the workmen’s 
 tools so clearly seen on its surface that one might suppose they had been suddenly called 
 away and intended soon to return and finish their work.’’ The inscription on the obelisk 
 of Heliopolis is translated as follows : 
 
 “The Horus of the Sun, The life for those who are born. 
 The King of the Upper and Lower land, Kheper-ka-Ra : 
 The Lord of the Double Crown, The life for those who are bor, 
 The Sun of the Sun-god, Ra, Usertsen ; 
 The friend of the Spirits of On, ever-living: ‘The golden Horus, 
 The life for those who are born, The gracious god, 
 Kheper-ka-Ra, has executed this work 
 At the beginning of a thirty years’ cycle, 
 
 He, the dispenser of life for evermore.’’ 
 
———————————— 
 
 ye Aas. 
 Mt Sia Tey 
 EES 
 
 . THRESHING SCENE AT HELIOPOLIS.—The threshing 
 ‘which our picture represents we witnessed between the Garden of the Vi 
 the Obelisk of Heliopo What acommentary is this upon that vanity of earthly 
 greatness that men should be threshing upon the very site of one of the proudest and 
 most influential cities of ancient times. The mowraj is a threshing machine which is 
 drawn over a floor by a yoke of oxen till the grain is sepe ed from the straw, and 
 the straw itself ground into chaff. The Egyptian mowraj has rollers which roll over 
 Circular saws are sometimes attached to the rollers. The picture before us 
 the trees, the grain, the sinister-looking old Egyptians, and that 
 
 n and 
 
 (O 
 
 the grain. 
 is very interesting: 
 
 The temple 
 
 tall, graceful minaret which rises beyond the trees in the background. 
 s, custodians, 
 
 that stood at this place was so immense that it is said the staff of pries 
 officials and menials necessary to keep it and perform its ceremonies numbered nearly 
 Here, too, were kept the sacred trees and animals which the people 
 e bull Mnevis, the lions with glistening skin, and the phcenix, 
 the bird “which afte: n from its ashes and brings them to 
 Heliopolis at intervals of five hundred years, by which symbol the consolatory hope 
 found expression that all that dies, fades or is extinguished in nature, shall revive to 
 
 thirteen thousand. 
 worshiped; the pale ly 
 
 a 
 
 being burnt r 
 
 new life, bloom and glory.” 
 
Bedouins drawing water from the Nile in our picture the nations and people of 
 Egypt have drawn water through all the ages of its prolonged history. Customs 
 Labor is cheap and modern machinery of the 
 labor-saving kind has not to any extent been introduced into Egypt. Merchandise can 
 be transported on the backs of camels more cheaply than by the railway. The cheap- 
 est thing in Egypt is human muscle, and until Egyptians are educated to a higher 
 
 © ™ DRAWER OF WATER FROM THE NILE. — As we see the 
 
 do not easily change in the East. 
 
 plane of life they will continue to draw water as they have always done. ‘he water 
 is drawn in buckets and is then emptied into little ditches which are cut through the 
 fields. In this way they irrigate the soil. We have here a glimpse of the River Nile, 
 
 that long and wonderful river, which coming from what are even yet unknown sources, 
 passes for more than fifteen hundred miles without a single tributary. ‘The Nile means 
 “the blue,” “the dark.” It is known in the Scriptures as ‘Sihor’”’ and ‘the river of 
 Egypt.”” Its banks are flat and monotonous. It is almost without islands. ‘The valley 
 of the Nile in the deserts immediately flanking it vary in the upper part from four to 
 ten miles, and further south from fourteen to thirty miles. The soil deposited by the 
 Nile averages thirty-three to thirty-eight feet deep in Egypt. ‘Throughout the whole 
 of Egypt the Nile mud is said to rest on a bed of sea-sand.”’ In the distance, in our 
 picture, we see groves of palm trees, and over all stretches the blue and beautiful sky 
 of Egypt. 
 
ei 
 bie = sa 
 
 HE SPRING OF THE VIRGIN.—Not far from the Tree of the Virgin a 
 spring of fresh water flows from the ground. ‘The water in this region is generally 
 such as has percolated through the soil from the Nile. It is said by some to have 
 a bitter taste. The water, hoy , from the Spring of the Virgin is excellent, 
 
 and by means of a wheel turned by oxen it is used to irrigate the garden. This spring is 
 mentioned according to Eber in records of the highest antiquity. It was said, and believed 
 for centuries, that the balsam shrub, the leaves of which Bocardi compared to those of 
 marjoram, could thrive here and nowhere else. It is said that the spring was once salt, 
 but when Mary bathed in it it at once became fresh and sweet, Another tradition says 
 
 that the Infant Christ had been bathed in the spring, and that afterwards it was always 
 fresh; another tradition says that the Virgin washed the child’s clothes in it, and wherever 
 While all 
 this is myth, it shows how the coming of Christ to the world stimulated the human 
 imagination to all kinds of speculation, but whatever the imagination may suggest, 
 the fact remains t the coming of Christ into this world is sweetening and purifying 
 the fountains of society, and the more the teachings of Christ are accepted by men 
 and applied to the home, the school, the civil government, the loftier and holier and 
 more wholesome becomes the whole social life. 
 
 a drop fell from the drying clothes to the soil a balsam tree sprang up. 
 
ee See 
 
 es 
 
 ee 
 
 ets 
 
 tet 
 
 AIRO FROM THE CITADEL.—tThe Citadel of Cairo was built by 
 Saladin in A. D. 1166. It was built of stone brought from the small pyramids of 
 Gizeh. It formed a part of Saladin’s general plan for protecting the town from 
 
 In its selection he showed a lack of wisdom, for the citadel is completely 
 
 commanded by Mount Mokattam. The great ruler chose the spot because of the pure air, 
 
 since it was found, as a historian reports, that meat could be kept fresh at that high 
 
 altitude twice as long as anywhere else in Cairo. ‘he citadel itself is a small town with a 
 
 palace built by Mohammed Ali, the mosque of Mohammed Ali, an older mosque built in 
 
 the year 718 of the Hegira, and which was long the royal mosque of Cairo. 
 
 assault. 
 
 From the 
 
 citadel a fine view is to be enjoyed. Just below are the arsenal, the Rumeleh—a beautiful 
 public square, the fine mosque of Sultan Hassan, the numerous minarets of Cairo, the 
 ancient wind mills, the distant pyramids, and the green plain through which the Nile winds 
 towardthesea. Miss Martineau says: ‘‘I would entreat any stranger to see this view, espe- 
 cially in the evening before sunset, when the beauty of it is beyond description. ‘The vastness 
 of the city as it lies stretched below surprises every one. 
 
 It looks a perfect wilderness of 
 flat roofs, cupolas and minarets, with an open space here and there, presenting the complete 
 front of a mosque, gay groups of people and moving camels 
 diminished by distance.” 
 
 a relief to the eye, though so 
 It is rarely a traveler enjoys a prospect so varied and charming. 
 
CRs: OO ie 
 
 beset Wier 
 
 the Nile,” is really true. But for the bounteous gifts bestowed by this river 
 Nile what is now a garden of fertility would be a wilderness of rock or sand. 
 The rains falling in the mountains among which the Nile has its sources, occa- 
 sion the annual inundation, which begins about the end of June and reaches its highest 
 point at the end of September. It then gradually subsides, and by the end of January 
 the country begins again to dry up. By the inundation a thin coat of mud or slime 
 not more than the twentieth of an inch in thickness is everywhere left after its subsi- 
 dence. » At its height the natives stay in their houses on the highest lands, travel on 
 the dikes or swim across from point to point. When it subsides the farmer makes 
 
 © * NILOMETER.—tThe often repeated saying that, ‘“‘ Egypt is the gift of 
 @) 
 
 haste to scatter his seed on the oozy, half-liquid mud. He literally ‘“‘sows his bread 
 upon the waters.’’ Thus it requires neither plow nor harrow. Pigs and goats tread it 
 into the land thus covered deep with Nile mud. ‘The failure of the inundation brings 
 great distress. Fearful droughts ensue. An excessive inundation causes such a flood 
 as to sweep away the mounds of protection which are built here and there, drown 
 cattle, imperil human life and spread desolation over the land. It is a case, 
 in which the people have “too much of a good thing.’ The Nilometer is the 
 measure by which the annual rise of the river is known. This Nilometer is 
 situated at the southern extremity of the island of Rhoda opposite old 
 Cairo. 
 
most due west from the citadel, the south end of the island being opposite Gizeh, 
 which is on the west bank of the river. We cross on a ferry boat from Cairo to 
 Rhoda in order to visit a pleasant garden. ‘The walks are paved with round peb- 
 ble mosaics. ‘There are in the garden low walls, arbors, climbing vines, orange, lemon, 
 banaua, lime and palm trees, and a variety of flowers. Near the north end of the island 
 stands a holy tree filled with votive offerings, chiefly old rags, putting one in mind of the 
 hanging moss we find on the trees in our southern forests, albeit the latter has advantage 
 in point of grace and beauty over the decorated nebek tree of Rhoda. ‘This tree isa miracle- 
 
 © ™ ISLAND RHODA (RODA),—The island of Rhoda is in the Nile al- 
 
 working tree. The superstitions connected with it require the patient to offer to Saint Man- 
 dura—the patron saint of this remarkable growth—the cloth enveloping the affected limb, 
 then encircle the tree seven times, pluck off two leaves and tie them on the affected parts 
 with another cloth. One thing is very certain the airing thus given the rags is a good thing 
 forthem. There is another Rhoda (Roda), a station on the Nile railway one hundred and 
 eighty miles south of Cairo, but the little island in the Nile on the edge of the great city is 
 a quiet retreat from the stir and excitement of life in the capital, and here one can meditate 
 on the long history of the land and its people from earliest days to the busy present. Voices 
 come from all the centuries to the pilgrim who sits in the garden of Rhoda. 
 
De I Fae 
 
 AN 
 
 RAWING WATER.—Egypt has a soil of sand, and as we 
 
 , depends on the annual overflow of the Nile 
 In the dry season, to supply gardens and 
 are used. The 
 It consists 
 
 have already sa 
 
 or its fertility. 
 
 fields with water, pumps of various ts 
 “‘Shadoof”’ is a very ancient invention for raising water. 
 of “two posts about five feet high and three feet apart, connected at 
 the top by a horizontal bar; across this is a branch of a tree having at 
 one end a weight composed of mud, and at the other suspended to it by 
 two palm sticks, a bucket made of basket work or matting or of a hoop 
 with wooden stuff or leather.’? One man may work this machine and 
 lift water as much as six or eight feet by He may keep on the whole 
 day bowing and rising as he works, doing it all in graceful fashion. 
 
 akeyeh’’ isanother pumping arrangement. It is made of jars 
 or pots fastened on a wheel which is sometimes twenty or even twenty- 
 Around its circumference are attached earthern 
 pots or jars by a system of cogs. The great wheel is kept turning by 
 connections which are made with a horizontal wheel which cattle or 
 horses keep in motion. In the picture we see to the right the wheel 
 with its jars, and to the left is a buffalo or cow treading about the 
 circle. In this way the gardens are supplied with water. The 
 thirsty land during a part of the year has great need of this service, 
 and most delightfully does the soil respond to the labor of the 
 water-drawer by Shadoof and Sakeyeh—in flowers and sod, in shrub 
 
 five feet in diameter. 
 
 and grain. 
 
RAIN BOATS ON THE NILE. — “Agriculture is the foundation of 
 © Egyptian civilization.” The fertility of the soil is literally exhaustless owing to 
 the ever recurring miracle wrought by the inundation of the Nile. In consequence 
 
 are produced with the outlay of but little skill or clever- 
 ness on the part of the agriculturists. Next to wheat the harvest of maize is the most im- 
 It is said that twen 
 Rye, barley and rice 
 
 of this, abundant harv! 
 
 portant of the Egyptian cereals. --four millions of bushels of the two 
 
 grains are produced annually. are also raised in great quantities. 
 
 The Nile is not only the great fertilizer but also serves for the highway for the rying of 
 
 all kinds of grain to the market. It is difficult to find a word in the language meaning 
 
 The terms the natiy 
 The boats used for carrying ft 
 
 potraelan S use signify ‘to go up stream”? or to ‘go down stream.” 
 ght are built with a narrow keel, the stern and prow, asin 
 ancient time, rising high above the water. They are usually managed by three or four men 
 and carry what is known as the lateen sail. ‘his is a large triangular sail much used in 
 the Mediterranean. The upper edge is fastened to the lateen yard, a spar of considerable 
 length, which is held at an angle of about forty-five degrees with the deck by means of a 
 mast crossing it a third of a way up. In Joseph’s day Egypt was the great granary of 
 the world, “and still”? says Dr. Thomson, “when the crops fail through drought or other 
 causes the people of southern Palestine go down to Egypt to buy corn.” 
 
 Genesis, xlii:2. 
 
Cees 
 
 a 
 
 PPROACH TO THE NILE BRIDGE. —I» the olden time, as in 1863, 
 when the writer first visited Egypt, the passage of the Nile s made by a small 
 ferry boat in company with horses, donkies, peddlers, farmers, beggars, tourists — 
 a motley crowd. Now, one may cross on the bridge Kasaren-Nil. It is a bridge 
 
 of iron otfe thousand two hundred and sixty feet long and has strong stone buttresses. It 
 is a comfortable thing in these days to take a carriage instead of a donkey, in Cairo, to 
 cross the bridge instead of a ferry and to enjoy an unbroken ride over a smooth, finely 
 macadamized road under the shade of acacia trees to the foot of the ridge on which the 
 pyramids stand. We went in 1863 on a donkey over a narrow tortuous path, and what 
 
 required several hours at that time may now be accomplished in about an hour and a half. 
 It is sometimes the case that the bridge is swung open for two hours at the time for the 
 passage of boats, and it behooves the tourist to watch the right time for leaving his hotel 
 for the pyramid excursion. There is in the picture above, a touch of the ancient orient, 
 palm trees, donkies with their drivers, or carts and riders, the long robes and the white 
 head-gear of the natives. Two high towers stand at the opening of the bridge, on each of 
 which is a lion couchant. In these days the natives, we have no doubt, think that these 
 images represent the British lion which keeps careful watch over everything pertaining to 
 modern Egypt. Once across the bridge we turn into the broad and beautiful Pyramid road. 
 
the fine macadamized road shaded by straight acacia trees a road far superior to the 
 narrow, crooked and dusty path-way of the past. 
 the market folk coming from the country, veiled women, baskets on their heads, 
 donkies and carts laden with green stuff plodding patiently along, camels bearing loads of 
 fresh cut clover, and racing, yelling boys every once in a while calling out ‘“backsheesh”’ 
 
 © & ROAD TO THE PYRAMIDS.—Having crossed the Nile we enter 
 
 Leaving the city early, one meets 
 
 or giving mock salutes to the travelers from the West. ‘Nothing could be lovelier” says 
 Bayard Taylor, ‘‘than the immense grain wheat lands stretching away to the Lybian desert 
 bounded on the south by thick fringes of palm; the wind blowing over them came to us 
 
 sweet with the odor of white clover blossoms, the larks sang in the air, snowy ibises stood 
 pensively on the edge of sparkling pools. In the east the citadel mosque stretches its 
 two minarets like taper figures averting the evil eye, and in front of us the Pyramids seem 
 to mock all the later power of the world.’ ‘Travelers often confess to a feeling of disap- 
 pointment as they approach the pyramids. ‘They seem so vast at a distance, and so much 
 reduced in size as one comes near them. A writer says: ‘I found the best way of getting 
 an impressive idea of the enormous magnitude of these pyramids, was to place myself in the 
 center of one side and look up. ‘The eye thus travels over all the courses of stone from the 
 bottom to the apex which appears literally to pierce the blue vault above.” 
 
— + 
 
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 Pie os aa 
 
 the head of a man—‘‘a symbol of animal power and of human intellect.” The 
 whole figure was typical of kingly royalty and set forth the power and wisdom 
 of the Egyptian monarch. One traveler describes the present appearance of the 
 great Sphinx as, ‘‘a ball of stone rising on a neck some forty feet above the sand.” 
 Miss Edwards says, ‘‘the sphinx is purely an Egyptian monster and of immemorial 
 antiquity. The great sphinx of Gizeh is probably the oldest monument in Egypt. 
 There are thousands of sphinxes in Egypt of various sizes, but the great Sphinx is this one 
 at the base of the pyramids. It is carved out of the summit of the original rock from 
 
 © * SPHINX.—What is the Sphinx? It is the body of a lion couchant, with 
 
 which it has never been separated. Its body is over one hundred feet long; its head is 
 thirty feet long and fourteen in width ; the marks of paint still remain on the face—on the 
 eye-brows and on the right cheek. The face is much mutilated ; the body is hidden by 
 drifting sands of the desert; the paws project some fifty feet and in the space between was 
 an altar for sacrificial purposes.’ While some assert with Miss Edwards and others that 
 the Sphinx is much older than the pyramids, it is attributed by some good authorities to 
 the XIII dynasty which would give it ‘an origin old enough but a third less than the 
 pyramids.” It seems to “spring directly out of the ground.’ One does not wonder that 
 the Arabs call the Sphinx ‘“‘the father of horror.” 
 
NTRANCE TO THE TEMPLE OF THE SPHINX.— The 
 Sphinx was in all probability an object of worship. From that altar between 
 his paws the smoke went up into the gigantic nostrils now vanished from the 
 
 face. ‘The ancient Egyptians called him ‘Neb,’ ‘Lord,’ a name generally 
 applied to the gods in their popular pantheon, but specially to the Sphinx alone.” 
 Dean Stanley writes this fine passage concerning the Sphinx: ‘‘ And for what purpose 
 was this sphinx of sphinxes called into being, as much greater than all other sphinxes 
 as the pyramids are greater than all other temples and tombs? If, as is likely, he 
 lay couched at the entrance now deep in the sand of the vast approach to the second, 
 that is the central pyramid, so as to form an essential part of this immense group; 
 
 still more if, as seems possible, there was once intended to be a brother sphinx on 
 the northern side as on the southern side of the approach its situation and significance 
 were worthy of its grandeur, and if further the Sphinx was the giant representative 
 of royalty then it fitly guards the greatest of royal sepulchres--and with its half 
 human, half animal form is the best welcome and the best farewell to the his- 
 tory and religion of Egypt.’’ It is still a mystery. The riddle of the Sphinx 
 is the question as to the reason of his being, the significance of his form and 
 position. The explorers of these 
 the tombs and pyramids are as 
 archeology. 
 
 venerable structures—the temples and obelisks, 
 likely to differ as are all other students of 
 
Frere Beh. 
 
 substructions before the Sphinx are miscalled the Temple of the Sphinx. It is not 
 a temple; it may be a mastaba or votive offering, it looks most like a tomb.’? The 
 constructions are of plain and polished alabaster and red granite, laid with sim- 
 plicity. There are four courts, rows of pillars, three pincipal chambers and dark recesses 
 anda well. The chambers contain niches for the placing of mummies, and at the bottom 
 of the well were found three statues of King Kaffra, one of which is the famous portrait 
 statue in the Gizeh Museum, and one is justified in believing that there remain in this 
 vicinity immense quantities of mummies and ancient treasures. It is the opinion of Miss 
 
 © sore OF THE SPHINX.—One Egyptologist boldly asserts that “‘the 
 
 Edwards that here lies the necropolis of the kings of the first and second dynasties buried 
 underneath a hundred feet of sand. The interpretation given to the Sphinx by M. J. De 
 Rougé is to the effect that it is entirely mythological, representing a transformation of Horus, 
 who, in order to vanquish (Seth) Typhon, took the shape of a human-headed lion. Horus, 
 avenger of Osiris, looks to the east, waiting the return of his father from the other world, 
 and so he ‘‘gazed on with calm, eternal eye,’’ on the day that Joseph and Mary and Jesus 
 came into Egypt. Did the marvel colussus, looking from his ancient resting place on the 
 edge of the desert, see the rising of the sun of righteousness as the babe of Bethlehem 
 came out of the deserts which lie between the Nile and the Jordan? 
 
eee 
 
 COEVRIGHT 1294 2Y BL 
 
 times as one of the seven wonders of the world this pyramid belongs to a large 
 family of architectural structures, seventy in number, and of different sizes. The 
 word pyramid, it is said, means ‘‘lofty.” The first Egyptian monuments which 
 bear the names of their founder date back to three thousand and ninety-one and three 
 thousand and sixty-seven B. C. Pyramids were built down to the time of the twelfth 
 dynasty, B. C., two thousand and three hundred. The architecture of Egypt contains in 
 obelisks and tombs the pyramidal lines. Strabo says, ‘(If you go forty stadia from the city 
 (Memphis) you come to a hill on which stand many pyramids, the burial places of kings.” 
 Pliny speaks slightingly of the pyramids as ‘‘an idle and foolish display by the kings of 
 
 © HE GREAT PYRAMID OF EGYPT.— Though accounted in olden 
 
 their wealth,” and Masudi, an Arabian historian says that “they were built three hundred 
 years before the flood in consequence of the interpretation of a dream which preceded the 
 deluge.”’ According to this historian an ancient king built them to preserve his records 
 from destruction. Small models of pyramids with devotional inscriptions have been found 
 in Egyptian tombs. On the eastern side of each of the three great pyramids, and of some 
 of less importance are temples. They have been variously accounted for by students who 
 have come under the spell of their mystery ; to some they are temples, to others granaries; 
 some make them observatories for astronomical uses, but Egyptologists generally believe 
 that they are simply tombs. 
 
oS. 
 
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 HE KING’S CHAMBER. — ‘he dimensions of the pyramid of Cheops-~ the 
 fq) great pyramid—have been variously estimated, but the most accurate measurements 
 — ever published were made by Mr. Petree in 1880-2. The original height he claims 
 
 was four hundred and eighty-one feet four inches, the actual present height is four 
 hundred and fifty-one feet. ‘he area of the original base was a little more than thirteen 
 acres, and its solid contents have been calculated at eighty-five million cubic feet. The 
 pyramid itself has lost its fine cutting of closely jointed and polished stone and one now 
 climbs as on a huge stairway from base to the summit. ‘The ascent is difficult and requires 
 the assistance of two or three Arabs who pull and push and prop as the exigencies of the 
 ascent demand. One’s head grows dizzy if he looks down too much, but from the summit 
 
 the prospect rewards him for all annoyance, fatigue and alarm. ‘The interior of the 
 pyramid has not yet been fully explored, but there is in the heart of it a dark room known 
 as the Kin Chamber. The principal apartment, as far as yet explored, is thirty-four feet 
 six inches long, seventeen feet two inches wide and nineteen feet one inch high; the floor 
 
 iS» 
 
 “is one hundred and forty-one feet from the base of the pyramid. The chamber is lined with 
 
 granite and roofed with nine enormous slabs of granite, eighteen and a half feet in length 
 so closely fitted that it is said, ‘‘the edge of a pen-knife can not be inserted between 
 them.’ It contains an empty and broken sarcophagus of granite on which there is no 
 inscription, but which undoubtedly contained the body of the king who built it. The 
 chamber was centuries ago robbed of its precious contents. 
 
stranger on London Bridge wondering at the ruins of the famous English capitol, 
 
 © SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS.—McCauley’s picture of the 
 
 is not so tragic as the reality which saddens the pilgrim as he travels over the site 
 
 of ancient Memphis. It was a royal residence of unusual splendor and center of 
 power for the Pharaohs of the sixth dynasty. It was an old capital of Egypt. 
 founded four thousand years before Christ, and survived the rule of Persian, of Greek and 
 of Roman. There was the great temple, “‘The House of Ptah.’ There was the great 
 temple, the “‘Iseum,’’ consecrated to the worship of Isis; there was the Temple of the 
 Apis; there, too, was the ‘‘ white wall,’ built of calcareous stone, on which stood the citadel 
 and many of the-principal buildings of the old capital. ‘To-day it isan utter desolation. 
 
 It was 
 
 Nothing now remains above ground but mounds, and these overgrown with palm trees. 
 In the building of old Cairo Memphis was used as a quarry, and nothing is left to 
 show its former splendor but that long stretch of pyramids for miles along the Lybian 
 Ridge showing what a powerful city it was, and what is yet to be found when the 
 Miss Edwards 
 emphasizes this thought: “If you but stamp your foot upon the sand you know that 
 
 archeologist with pick and spade goes to work, no one can surmise. 
 
 it probably awakens an echo in some dark hall or corridor untrod of man for three 
 or four thousand years. The mummied generations are everywhere—in the bowels of 
 the mountains, in the face of the cliffs, in the rock-cut labyrinths which underlie the 
 surface of the desert.” 
 
between the Nile and the Necropolis of Memphis. The larger one is prostrate 
 and surrounded by walls. Steps are provided by which the walls are ascended, 
 and a temporary framework is built above them, and across them, upon which 
 persons may stand and look down upon the colossal statue. Our view is of the smaller 
 of the statues. This one is broken at the feet and part of the cap is wanting. Rameses 
 II. was frequently called the Pharaoh of the Oppression. This is probably not 
 correct. He was, however, “the new king who knew not Joseph.” He now 
 lies in limestone, prostrate amid the ruins of the city he helped to enrich 
 and adorn. The first in her glory, he is the last in her desolation. Blanched 
 
 S teres OF RAMESES II.—There are two statues of Rameses II. 
 
 with the sun of thirty centuries he now lies looking into the deep eastern 
 heavens. His companions were once the proud courtiers of a prodigal court, his 
 companions now are the jackals, whose weird howl lends a melancholy interest to 
 the solemn moan of the palms, the only sentinels left to guard the proud Egyptian king. 
 The very name of Rameses once struck terror to the hearts of men; he is so quiet and 
 harmless now, in the stone expression he has left of himself, that the lizzards may play 
 hide and seek on the surface of his vast face. The tall rauk weeds grow about 
 his mighty form and may lean their dying heads upon his cold and bloodless bosom. 
 A tradition is repeated that Joseph and Mary spent a part of their sojourn in Egypt, at 
 Memphis. 
 
ARDEN OF GIZEH MUSEUM.—Tthe Khedivial collection of Egyptian 
 
 @y antiquities was formerly exhibited in the Museum at Balak, but it now occupies a 
 
 large number of rooms in the Palace at Gizeh. This priceless collection which 
 
 gives us a better idea of the splendor of ancient Egyptian civilization than 
 can be obtained elsewhere, was opened to the public in the Palace at Gizeh by H. H. 
 the Khedive on January 12, 1890. Our view is of a scene in the garden surrounding 
 the Museum. The walks through this magnificent garden are paved with a Mosaic 
 of round pebbles obtained from the desert. As can be seen in the walk bordering 
 the lakelet in the picture, these pebbles are arranged in the most exquisite de- 
 signs. Flowers flourish in Egypt all the year round, and Cairen> gardens are the 
 admiration of all who visit this Oriental City. An Egyptian poet of the thirteenth 
 century, translated by E. H. Palmer, thus sings of the Gardens of Cairo; 
 
 “I took my pleasure in a garden bright— 
 Ah! that our happiest hours so quickly pass ; 
 That time should be so rapid in its flight ; 
 Therein my soul accomplished her delight, 
 And life was fresher than the green young grass. 
 There raindrops trickle through the warm, still air, 
 The cloud-born firstlings of the summer skies ; 
 Full oft I stroll in early morning there, 
 When, like a pearl upon a bosom fair, 
 The glistening dewdrop on the sapling lies.”” 
 The flowers bloomed about the infant Jesus when he was in Egypt just as we see them 
 bloom to-day. An Egyptian poet of the time of Pharaoh the Oppressor, speaks of the 
 meadows verdant with herbage, and of the bowers full of blooming garlands. 
 
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 Gizeh was built by Ismail Pasha, son of the celebrated General Ibraham Pasha, 
 
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 at a cost of £5,000,000 sterling or $25,000,000, and constituted one of his residences 
 
 in Egypt.. This Ismail Pasha having a firman from the Porte giving him the right 
 to coin money and take loans, put upon the Egyptian government the enormous debt of 
 $500,000,000. He built canals, streets, railways, manufactories, created a postal and tele- 
 graph organization, and took part in the gigantic work of the Suez Canal. He sought to 
 reproduce in modern times the splendor of the ancient Pharaohs. Butthe people groaned 
 under the burden of debt, and the powers at Constantinople deposed him, and turned his 
 landed properties and residences over to the government. 
 on of the Palace of Gizeh, and turned it into a National Museum. 
 
 In this way the government 
 This 
 
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 garden in the second story is known as the Harem Garden. It is a beautiful place. 
 Through the round glass-covered roof above the soft clear light of the E yptian sun comes 
 to give health to the flowers, and to illuminate the garden in the day time, while lamps 
 
 on decorated posts are set around to light up the place at night. 
 
 “ There the young flowerets with sweet perfume blow, 
 ‘There feathery palms their pendant clusters hold, 
 Like foxes brushes waving to and fro ; 
 ‘There every evening comes the afterglow, 
 Tipping the leaflets with its liquid gold.” 
 When Joseph and Mary were in Egypt, the government was in the hands of the Romans. 
 Nearly two thousand years afterward the government is practically in the hands of the 
 
 English, whose civilization has been created by the life of Jesus Christ. 
 
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ALL OF THE ROYAL MUMMIES IN THE GIZEH 
 MUSEUM.—“ Here the dead lift up their voice and tell the tale of their whole 
 life.’—Renan. In this museum at Gizeh, once at Balak, one may trace the history 
 of Egypt back to the times of the ancient kings. ‘The Hall of the Royal Mummies 
 
 contains the valuable find at Derel-Bahri (Thebes), July 5, 1881, by M. Mariette-Bey. 
 Cases of great size were found formed of countless layers of linen cloth tightly pressed and 
 glued together, and then covered with a thin coating of stucco. This mass of linen is fully 
 as hard as wood, and is adorned with painted and incised ornaments and inscriptions. The 
 principal representatives found either as mummies, or represented by their mummy es, 
 include a king and queen of the seventeenth dynasty, five kings and four queens of the 
 
 eighteenth dynasty, and three successive kings of the nineteenth d y, namely: Rameses 
 
 her. The twentieth dyna s not represented, but 
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 princes and a princess All the royal mumm: twenty-nine in number, are now lying 
 in state in the Gizeh Museum, ‘‘ 
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 arranged side by side, a solemn assembly of kings, queens, 
 
 mummied remains of the greatest royal builders, the most renowned warriors and the 
 
 mightiest monarchs of ancient Egypt. They speak to us of the military glory and the 
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according to well-preserved inscriptions, in the time of the Mameluke princes, who 
 These 
 
 © er OF THE CALIPHS.—Most of the tombs of the Caliphs were built 
 
 succeeded the Bahrite rulers, and were known as the Circassian Sultans. 
 
 tombs extend along the east side of the city of Cairo. Each formerly had an 
 endowment and a staff of shekhs and attendants, who with their families, lived near them. 
 About the beginning of the present century, the properties belonging to these tombs were 
 confiscated, while the families who made their means of subsistence attending to them, 
 The tombs are now falling into decay, and the descendants 
 It is 
 
 were left without employment. 
 of the shekhs and attendants, who once kept them, continue to live amid the ruins. 
 
 a strange fact in history that Egypt, where our Savior spent the first months of his existence, 
 where the gospel was early introduced by the preaching of St. Mark and others, should 
 have received Mohammedanism by the aid of Christians. When, in 638 Amr invaded 
 Egypt from Syria, it was the Copts, a body of Christians, who helped him to overcome the 
 orthodox Greeks at Faramah. 
 hostility to the Greek Christians, encouraged the Copts to assist the Mohammedans in 
 driving them from the country. And now, for 1256 years, the land of Moses and of Joseph, 
 the laud of the sojourn of the infant Jesus, has been in the hands of a people holding a 
 creed utterly inimical to the gospel of love Christ came to bring to the world. 
 
 Bishop Benjamin, of Alexandria, himself, because of his 
 
< e Cehia 
 
 the citadel, are the tombs of the Mamelukes. Prominent among these is the 
 Tomb-Mosque of Sultan Barkfik with its superb dome and graceful minarets. Under 
 the north dome are the tombs of the male, and under the south dome those of the 
 There is a fine architrave of alabaster over the old 
 entrance at the north-west angle, now closed. ‘The vestibule of the south facade is a fine 
 star-shaped dome. In the great quadrangle is a beautiful fountain for ablution. A black 
 stone found here (ironstone) when rubbed on granite under water, is thought to 
 communicate sanatory propert'es to the discolored waters. Near the tomb is a column 
 
 @ OF SULTAN BARKU K.—To the east of the city of Cairo, beyond 
 
 female, members of the family. 
 
 or 
 
 | 
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 full of inscriptions. Its height represents the height of the Sultan himself. Barkfik was 
 a Circassian slave, who raised himself to the throne in 1382 by setting aside Haggi, a boy 
 of six years and great grandson of Mohammed en-Nasir. Barkfik was the first of the 
 Circassian Mameluke kings. At first his reign was anything but peaceful. His bold intrigues 
 and treachery so exasperated the Emirs that they conspired against him and finally 
 dethroned him in 1389. But he was soonrestored. He reigned from 1382 to 1399, and that 
 he might not be forgotten, erected this costly and beautiful tomb-mosque, thus carrying out 
 the injunction laid upon a pious man ‘to build his tomb on a pure place on which no man 
 had built a tomb; and to also build his tomb of new material and take no man’s possession.’? 
 
PRE BAIN 
 
 OMBS OF THE MAMELUKES.—The word Mameluke 
 meaus “slave.” They were purchased by the old Sultans and 
 received military training for the purpose of forming a body 
 guard and thus the nucleus of an army. The lust of power grew 
 
 in them and learning that in union there is strength, they placed Melik 
 
 es-Saleh on the throne, thinking that they could without difficulty 
 govern him, but when the new sultan found himself sufficiently well 
 
 established he dismissed the Mamelukes from his service and formed a 
 
 new body guard of the Bahrite Mamelukes. The new guards, however, 
 
 soon succeeded in getting almost supreme power. Melik es-Saleh, the 
 founder of the Mameluke dynasty, reigned from 1240 to 1249. Beyond 
 the citadel the tombs extended along the eastern side of the city of Cairo 
 
 are known as the ‘‘ Tombs of the Mamelukes,”’ The ruins of these tor 
 bear traces of great artistic merit, some of the minarets being exceedine)) 
 beautiful. One of the tombs has a dome with a lantern, a form quite 
 unlike the usual Arabian style. The minarets are generally square at 
 the base, towering upward, story by story until the form at last chan 
 to that of an octagon orcylinder. The towers contain winding staircases 
 of stone, leading to the galleries of the different stories and to the 
 balconies between. From the galleries of the minarets the Muezzins 
 summon the faithful five timesa day: ‘Allah is great. I testify that 
 there is no God but Allah,and Mohammed is the prophet of Allah. 
 Come to prayer, come to worship. Allah is great. There is no God but 
 Allah,” 
 
imposing is the Tomb-Mosque of Kait-Bey, with its lofty dome and beautiful 
 qninarets. Within the mausoleum are two stones, one of red and the other of black 
 granite, which are said to have been brought from Mecca by Kait-Bey and to bear 
 the impressions of the prophet’s feet. Over one is a wooden canopy, over the other a 
 bronze dome. ‘The minaret is astriking feature. It is very elegant, and from its galleries 
 may be heard, five times a day, the melodious call to prayer. The dome itself is a work of 
 art, richly sculptured. Kait-Bey was one of the last independent Mameluke Sultans of 
 Egypt. His reign lasted from 1468 to 1496, and was, on the whole, successful. Asa general 
 and a statesman he held his position against the Porte, and inflicted serious losses on the 
 
 ©™ B OF KAIT-BEY. — Among the tombs of the Caliphs the first and most 
 
 Turks. He was, however, greatly hindered in his undertaking by the discontented 
 Mamelukes, who at last compelled him to abdicate in favor of his son Mohammed, a boy 
 but fourteen years old. ‘The mosque occupies a conspicuous place among the tombs of the 
 Caliphs on the eastern side of Cairo. ‘Looked at externally or internally nothing can 
 exceed the grace of every pa t of this building * coo It is, perhaps, unrivaled 
 by anything in Egypt and far surpasses the Alhambra or the Western buildings 
 of its age.””— Ferguson. Travelers call attention to the ‘‘elaborate lace-like 
 sculpturing of its well constructed dome.” In the picture above we see the 
 beautiful minaret with its several galleries, and beyond it the dome so widely 
 praised. 
 
ial me ERS rene Ba ee 
 
 stands in old Cairo. This church is, according to tradition, very ancient. The 
 guide will show the tourist a crypt in which tradition says that the Virgin and 
 Child spent a month during their sojourn in Egypt. ‘The above picture was taken 
 from inside the open court, and you now look toward the door and front of the inner and 
 main room of the church. One will find in the building interesting Byzantine carving, 
 mosaics in ivory, an inscription above a door near the high altar: ‘‘Greetings to the 
 Temple of the Father,’’ and a modern Arabic inscription with the date 1195. ‘The nave of 
 the church is divided into three sections. Raised a few steps above the nave is the choir 
 
 © * COPTIC CHURCH. —This is the old Coptic church of St. Mary. It 
 @) 
 
 where the priests officiate ; still higher is the ‘‘ Hekel’’ or sanctuary containing the altar 
 and enclosed by a wall, door and curtains. The name Copt is an Arabic corruption of 
 the Greek name of the Egyptains. These Egyptian Christians who are called Copts 
 cherish dogmatic beliefs which separate them from other Christians, and in the defense of 
 which these ancient disciples were willing even to face death. ‘The Coptic is a dead 
 language (ancient Egyptian), written in Greek letters. Miss Edwards says: ‘No traveler 
 in Egypt should omit being present at a service at a Coptic church, for a Coptic church 
 is now the only place in which one may hear the last utterances of that far-off race, with 
 whose pursuits and pleasures the tomb paintings make us so familiar.” 
 
HE MOSQUE OF THE CITADEL.—The principal entrance to the 
 
 G citadel is from the Rumleh Place. This is an open square which is the great 
 resort for the idlers, tale-tellers, mountebanks, musicians and jugglers of Cairo. 
 
 The ascent is very steep from this square up to the heights of the Mokattam 
 
 hill upon which the citadel is built. The mosque was begun by Mohammed ’Ali, but 
 was not finished until 1857. It is built after the model of the church of the Hagia 
 Sophia, at Constantinople. The mosque is square, covered by one large dome and 
 four small ones. There is a clock in the tower on the western side presented by Louis 
 Philippe. It is called the alabaster mosque because of the slabs and blocks of alabaster 
 used for the incrustation of the masonry. The entrance is on the north side. Having 
 
 permitted straw slippers to be placed over our shoes by a boy who stands at the 
 entrance, we pass inside. To the southeast corner is the tomb of Mohammed ’Ali, who 
 died in 1849. This is enclosed by a railing. Near this, and opposite to it, is a space 
 also enclosed by a railing set apart for the Sultan. ‘There is not a more interesting 
 place in Egypt than the height, with its medley of buildings, barracks, palaces, walls 
 and corridors for which the citadel stands. About this spur of the Mokattam hills the 
 history of Egypt has turned from the days of Saladin to the present. The English 
 soldiers who guard this fortress, and who are seen with their muskets on the rounds 
 of duty, indicate that Egypt is in process of taking its place among the powers of 
 Western civilization. 
 
ro 
 
 ruin on the! west side 
 
 acenic edifice in Egypt. 
 
 of Old Cairo is the Mosque of Amr, the earliest’ S¢ 
 
 It was built by Amr ibn el-Asi, the Arab conquerer of Egypt im the twenty- 
 
 first year of the Hegira (A. D. 642), ten years after the; death of.Mohammed. It 
 
 was constructed on the plan of asingle quadrangle two hundred:and twenty-five feet square, 
 surrounded by a covered colonnade, one range of pillars in depth on the-west side, four on 
 the north, three on the south and six on the east, whichr is the place. of prayer. The 
 two hundred and forty-five in number, were brought from earlier; Roman and 
 s; ~The heterogeneous 
 
 © ° MOSQUE OF AMR.—This lofty and soli 
 
 colum 
 yzantine buildings, which had been overthrown by earthquai 
 of the columns is accounted for by the fact that they were brought from other 
 
 buildings in Cairo, ruined by the same earthquake, and were adapted to their new functions 
 by rude procrustean methods of lengthening and shortening. ‘This is called ‘‘The Crown 
 of the Mosques.” In 1808 this mosque witnessed a remarkable scene. At the usual time 
 for the rising of the Nile, the water began to fall. Dismayed by the strange phenomenon, 
 the whole of the Mohammedan priesthood, the christian clergy of every sect, and the Jewish 
 rabbis, with one accord assembled in the mosque of Amr, to pray for the rising of the 
 id, that so effectual were their prayers that the river before long rose 
 May such holy union again prevail among Jew, Christian 
 
 waters, and, it is 
 to its wonted fertilizing height. 
 and Moslem in the East ! 
 
ee 
 Se — ? © 
 
 Fasha (great open court) of the Mosque of Amr is the fountain for ablutions, near 
 
 Dr asia ores OF THE MOSQUE OF AMR.~—In the center of the 
 
 which rise a palm andathorn tree. The colonnade of the sanctuary rests on six rows 
 One column bears the names of Allah, Mohammed, and Sultan Suleiman, 
 jn Arabic characters. By a freak of nature the outline of the prophet’s “kurbatsh”’ is 
 traced on it by a vein of lighter color than the rest of the marble, which is of a grey color. 
 The Moslems devoutly believe this column to have been miraculously transported from 
 Mecca to Cairo. The legend runs as follows: ‘‘When Amr was building the Mosque, 
 he asked his master, Khalif Omar, fora column from Mecca. The Khalif thereupon 
 addressed himself to one of the columns there and commanded it to migrate to the Nile, 
 but the column would not stir. Herepeated his command more urgently, but still the 
 
 column remained immovable. A third time he repeated his command angrily striking the 
 
 of columns. 
 
 column with his ‘kurbatsh,’ but still without effect. At length he shouted, ‘I command 
 
 thee in the name of God, O column, arise and betake thyself to the Nile.’ Thereupon the 
 
 The arches are of 
 Some are almost circular, while others form a nearly acute angle 
 with straight sides. 
 fantastic shapes. 
 
 column went, bearing the mark of the whip, which is still visible.” 
 
 various forms. 
 
 Horseshoe arches also occur, and others are in arbitrary anc 
 The place of prayer contains three holy niches and the pulpit. 
 One of the niches contains some fragments of Byzantine Mosaics. One column is 
 of that rare black and white speckled marble of which there is a specimen in the 
 pulpit of St. Mark’s, Venice. A pair of columns on the west side were once used as 
 a test of character. They were so close together that it was said only an honest 
 man could squeeze through them. The Khedive has now walled up this 
 
 space. 
 
ARRACKS AT THE CITADEL, — ‘he platform upon which the 
 Citadel of Cairo stands is about 250 feet above the level of the city, which lies 
 to the west below. The citadel was founded in the twelfth century by the great 
 Saladin of history and romance, a character admired by both Mohammedans 
 
 and Christians. Though he lost Jerusalem to the Christians, ‘‘Dante allows him to 
 linger alone in a circle of the nobles of the heathen.” ‘A succession of luxurious and 
 extravagant Sultans greatly extended and magnificently embellished Cairo, and both 
 within and without the citadel elegant edifices were built, while canals and superb roads, 
 
 palaces and pleasure grounds converted the ruins and sand hills of tl 
 beautiful suburbs,” but afterwards came anarchy and carnage. Nearly every Mameluke 
 Sultan who resided within the citadel died a violent death. During the French occu- 
 pation of Egypt the citadel was strengthened by outworks, and Mohammed ’Ali, the 
 founder of the present dynasty, still further strengthened its defences. It was here 
 that the Mamelukes were destroyed. A place is pointed out below the high wall of the 
 citadel as the spot where Amyn Bey reached the ground when he forced his horse to 
 make the celebrated leap of forty feet. 
 
 1e environs into 
 
ee Sy 
 
 hen 
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 re 
 oe Na ee 
 
 HE CASTLE OF BABYLON. -—This has nothing to do with Babylon the 
 Great, but is a relic of the town which Cambyses is said to have founded B. C., 525, 
 on the site now occupied by old Cairo, and where, according to some, the Epistle 
 of St. Peter was written, During the Roman period, this became the headquarters 
 
 of one of the three legions stationed in Europe, Remains of the Roman castrum are still 
 preserved here. New Babylon was captured A. D., 638, by Amr ibn el-Asi, General of the 
 Khalif Omar, who destroyed at Omar’s order the Alexandrian library. Here at Babylon 
 his tent (fostat) was left standing, and after the capture of Alexandria, Amr wished to 
 reside there, but Omar would not permit it, and the victorious general returned to his tent, 
 
 around which a new city sprang up, to which the name Fostat was given in memory of its 
 origin. It is within the ruins of Fostat that we find this ancient Roman castle called 
 Babylon. ‘There can be no mistake about the banded masonry, the thin bricks, the hard 
 mortar, or any other of many marks by which Roman work may be identified.’’— Loftie, 
 The western front of the castle is, perhaps, two hundred yards long and ends with a semi- 
 circle tower facing south. This tower is very perfect to a height of, perhaps, twenty feet, 
 and is first of a series of three, each some fifty feet in width, which range along the side 
 looking toward Memphis. ‘‘Here the soldiers of Caesar watched the Nile and held the 
 chief link in the chain which bound Egypt and Memphis to Rome.” 
 
i 
 
 slay 
 
 AITING PROCESSION IN THE FESTIVAL OF THE 
 MAH’MAL.— Most tourists leave Cairo before the middle of April, and 
 hence fail to witness the festival of the Mah’mal, annually observed by the 
 Cairenes about this time. The manager of Shepherd’s Hotel informed us, the 
 night before, that what is popularly called the procession of the Holy Carpet would take 
 place on Saturday, the next day. This was April 14th, 1894. The morning was as bright 
 as the eastern sun could make it, as are all the mornings in Egypt. 
 " the beginning that this was a day the people of Cairo had selected to spend on the street. 
 The crowd gathers at the Rumeleh, an open square at the foot of the citadel. With our 
 in our ground by eight o’clock. We 
 
 It was easy to see at 
 
 dragoman, we were carriage and on the 
 
 not too soon, for even then, it wa 
 
 all we could do, with the utmost tact of our 
 agoman, and the aid of plenty of ‘“‘backsheesh”’ to the police, to get a ple in the 
 living, tumultuous throng from which to see the Mah’mal Pp Not only were ropes 
 stretched along the street to keep the people , but soldiers with gleaming bayonets in 
 their hands, were stationed in regular order to see that they observed the line indicated by 
 the ropes. we see it above is waiting for the procession. ‘The people are in 
 a gay mood, and water-bearers and sellers of red sherhert pass among them, advertising 
 their willingness to provide refreshment for them by a kind of jingling music they 
 provoke froma couple of brazen instruments held between their fingers. ‘The festive and 
 cheery voices heard on all sides indicate that the day is given up to universal good humor. 
 
 The crowd a 
 
TART OF THE PROCESSION OF THE FESTIVAL OF 
 THE MAH’MAL,.—According to Ebers, who devotes a chapter to this festival, 
 beginning with page 125, Vol. I1., of his splendid work on Picturesque Egypt, the 
 Cairenes owe this festival to a beautiful woman who lived at the beginning of the 
 
 rule of the Mamelukes. Her name was Schagaret-eddurr (the pearl tree). After the death 
 of her husband she ruled eighty days as Sultana, and then married again to the Emir 
 Eybeg. ‘Io her husband she gave not only her hand but her throne also, and withdrew 
 
 herself into the retirement of the Harem. ‘This festival is in honor of her having made a 
 pilgrimage to Mecca in a magnificent litter, borne between camels. In after years the rulers 
 of Egypt sent a litter to Mecca along with the caravan of pilgrims who annually made the 
 journey to the holy Mohammedan city. After the conquest of Egypt by the Turks, under 
 
 Sultan Selim, in 1517, the continuance of this custom was conceded, and has continued to 
 this day. The Mah’mal, or litter, is a wooden erection in pyramidal form and is hung by 
 embroidered fabrics, which are very beautiful. These hangings, or coverings, accompany 
 the litter. and are intended for the most sacred sanctuary of the interior of the Mosque at 
 Mecca. ‘The pieces for the hangings, which are to be left at Mecca, are manufactured in 
 Constantinople at the cost of the Sultan. They are then brought to the citadel at Cairo, 
 where they are sewed together preparatory to the procession from the citadel to the Mosque 
 of Huseyn. ‘The ceremony we witnessed was the one observed in honor of taking the cover- 
 ings from the citadel to the Mosque of Huse Here the sacred fabrics remain for two 
 or three weeks, where they are embroidered and packed ready to accompany the great 
 caravan of pilgrims to Mecca. 
 
EAD OF THE PROCESSION IN THE FESTIVAL OF THE 
 MAH’MAL.—The coverings for the sanctuary at Mecca are sent every year 
 from Cairo by the representative of the Sultan of Turkey. The Mah’mal having 
 made the pilgrimage to Mecca often is not only a symbol of royalty, but is 
 
 also regarded as a sacred relic. yen the sight of it in the esteem of devout 
 
 Muslims brings a blessing. At the head of the procession we see soldiers who are 
 
 followed by camels, highly decorated, and bearing on their humps palm-branches, 
 
 with oranges attached. Each section of the procession is preceded by a band of 
 music, the largest being that which accompanies the Mah’mal. ‘The cavalcade moves 
 very slowly. The people cheer the “ Prince of the Pilgrimage’ as he goes by between two 
 camels, one in front of the other. He is to conduct the expedition when it finally starts 
 
 from the Birket-el-Hagg to Mecca. The leader of the pilgrims follows the “Prince of the 
 Pilgrimage.’’ He goes before in the desert to lead the way. 
 
 An unusual commotion is 
 created as the Mah’mal or litter goes by. 
 
 It is seen far down the street on the back of a 
 camel, swinging right and left, and up and down, as the ship of the desert makes its way 
 through the sea of excited and tumultuous humanity on every side, Another festival such 
 as we witness above is held when the hangings are taken from the Mosque of Huseyn for 
 the journey to Mecca. Every devout Muslim feels it his duty to make once in his life the 
 pilgrimage to Mecca, Most of the way is now made by water. On approaching Mecca the 
 pilgrims undress, and put on aprons and a piece of the cloth over the left shoulder. They 
 then perform the circuit of Ka’ba, hear the sermon on Mt. Arafat, pelt Satan with stones, 
 and conclude with a great sacrificial feast. 
 
ARCOPHAGUS OF APIS BULL, SAKKARA.-— If the Holy 
 Family, according to a traditional account spent a part of their sojourn in Egypt 
 at Memphis they were in sight of the step pyramids. North and west of 
 the step pyramids, was situated the mausoleum of Apis, the sacred bull of 
 
 Memphis, which had spent its life in its temple (Apieum) 
 
 buried in the vaults of Sakkara. The Apis bull was the sacred animal of Ptah. He 
 
 was the chief god of Memphis. Rawlinson says: ‘The Apis bull dwelt in a temple of his 
 own; had his train of attending priests; his harem of cows; his chamberlains, cup 
 bearers and grooms, and on fixed days, was led in a festive proces 
 
 streets of Memphis.” he people made obeisance to him as he pas 
 
 and after death, was 
 
 sion through the main 
 sed. At death he was 
 
 embalmed and deposited with magnificent jewels, statues and vases in a polished granite 
 sarcophagus, cut out of a single block, and weighing between sixty and seventy tons. His 
 funeral cost as much as one hundred thousand dollars. The sarcophagi of the sacred bulls 
 were placed in arched lateral chambers, or vaults, reaching out from long galleries cut in 
 the solid rock, near Memphis. The number of Apis bulls buried in these galleries, was 
 Mariette in November, 1851, penetrated these vaults. He found one that had 
 been untouched, although thirty-seven hundred years had passed since it was closed. 
 
 sixty-four. 
 
 Everything in the chamber seems to have been in precisely its original condition. The 
 finger marks of the Egyptian who had inserted the last stone in the wall bu‘lt to conceal 
 
 the door, were still recognizable on the lime. 
 
 —75— 
 
iA a i 
 
 en 
 
 LD CAIRO.—In going from Heliopolis to Memphis the Holy Family would p: 
 through or near Old Cairo. After the conquest of Egypt by Cambyses, B.C. 3 
 the victorious Babylonians founded New Babylon where old Cairo now stands. 
 Under the Fatimite Khalifs the modern City of Cairo was built near the old, which 
 
 is a place of interesting ruins, ancient churches, mosques, castles, tombs, cemete 
 
 aqueducts. We reach it by following the boulevard Abdul Azis, the Rond-Point Bab el Lik 
 and the square of that name, beautifully planted with flowers of the Turkish national 
 colors. The Coptic quarter of old Cairo contains St. Mar eral other 
 bas: In one church ‘‘there is a pulpit of colored marble, in-laid with mother of pearl, 
 and ajug and basin with old Arabic enamel work.’’ ‘Tradition claims that Elijah and Moses 
 
 es and 
 
 s church and 
 
 — 76 
 
 both appeared in one or other of the old Cairo synagogue 
 the site of old Babylon (Fostat). Loftie says, ‘‘ Expeditions to the mounds are sometimes 
 made by the English residents to hunt, not wild beasts or creeping things, but to se 
 
 S 
 
 Iinmense rubbish heaps ma 
 
 rch 
 for old Arab beads and beautifully colored fragments of pottery. One hillock abounds in 
 beautiful beads, perhaps it marks the site of the bead bazaar of Fostat.’? As Fostat 
 was burned in the twelfth century, most of the things thus found date beyond six 
 hundred years ago. A very striking view of the Mokattam hills may be obtained 
 from some points in Cairo. These hills, which flank the valley of the Nile, belong 
 to a great range of mountains which extend from northwest Africa across Egypt and India 
 to China. 
 
2 
 
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 Mey 
 
with the holy family long enough not simply to give representations of the 
 tombs and monuments they saw nearly two thousand years ago, but « 
 pictures and descriptions of customs and ceremonies and structures which have 
 grown out of the civilization in the midst of which they spent the time of the flight. The 
 Egyptian girl is generally married in her twelfth or thirteenth, and sometimes as early as her 
 tenth year. Before the wedding the bride is conducted in gala attire, and with great 
 ceremony to the bath. The procession is called ‘‘Zeffet et Hammam.’’ Musicians with 
 hautboys and drums head the procession. Pairs of married friends and relatives of the 
 bride follow, and after these come a number of young girls. The bride is usually enveloped 
 from head to foot in a cashmere shawl. On the head she wears a small cap or crown of 
 pasteboard. The procession is followed by another body of musicians. Hideous shrieks 
 
 lso to give 
 
 —78. 
 
 exactly lik 
 
 of joy greet the bride by women of the lower classes. The bride is then conducted to the 
 He has not seen his bride until the 
 wedding day. The match has been made by a relative or by a professional matchmaker. 
 He is required to pay a bridal portion. Egyptian women in early life are generally erect 
 and graceful, They color their eyelashes and lids dark, and their fingers and toe-nails 
 a brownish yellow. Miss Edwards thus describes a wedding procession : ‘Here we fall 
 in with a wedding procession consisting of a crowd of men, a band and some three or four 
 hired carriages full of veiled women, one of whom was pointed out as the bride. ‘The 
 bridegroom walks in the midst of the men who seemed to be teasing him, opposing his 
 progress ; while high above the laughter, the shouting, the jingle of tambourines and the 
 thrumming ‘darabukkehs’ was heard the shrill squeal of some instrument that sounded 
 
 house of her husband with the same formalities. 
 
 a bagpipe.” 
 
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OMPEY’S PILLAR.—We have no record from any reliable 
 £ or eyen traditional source that Joseph and Mary were in 
 Alexandria, This city is very interesting, however, because of 
 its connection with the development of Christian theology. The 
 Holy Family, upon their return to Nazareth, passed back through 
 the desert. This handsome monument, which all tourists in Es 
 hasten to see, does not derive its name from Pompey the Great, but 
 from the Roman Prefect Pompeius, who, according to the inscription, 
 erected it in honor of the unconquered Diocletian, ‘The Defender of 
 the City of Alexandria.”” It is a red granite monolyth, from Assuan, 
 which has withstood centuries of exposure to the elements. It is 
 now the only important relic of antiquity inthe city. The height of 
 the column, together with the disintegrated or perhaps never quite 
 completed Corinthian capital and the pedestal, is 104 feet. The shaft 
 
 is sixty-seven feet high, and is about nine feet in diameter below and 
 not quite eight feet at the top. The proportions produce an exceedingly 
 harmonious effect. It stands on an eminence outside of the gates of the 
 city. In an ancient illustrated plan of Alexandria, Pompey’s Pillar is 
 represented with a figure of aman on top. It was probably erected in 
 commemoration of a gift of corn presented by Diocletian to the citizens 
 » says Bartlett, ‘are 
 more difficult for the imagination to connect with the facts of their 
 history than this. Pompey’s Pillar and Cleopatra’s Needle stand in 
 historic isolation and, misnomers as they are, suggest what seems 
 a myth. It is not difficult to imagine that here Cassar was once 
 in straits, that Cleopatra may have been conveyed to his residence 
 rolled up in a carpet, and that here Anthony and Cleopatra held high 
 revelries,”’ 
 
 during a time of great scarcity. ‘‘ Few place 
 
*UOSULOY T, 
 —,,Weyviqy Ioy}ey JO Yeo plo sq} Yyweusq MoS 0} paMoT[e st jvy} 
 pres Jos oy} wodn uoiqey jo sMef oy} Aq poy st oru-ord e Auemt pue 
 ‘TealD pue udd1S‘sseis YI poetoaod st pasn punoss oyy,,, “je pury 
 -oq ysnf St 10}8M JOdMs Jo [JPM plo ouy v pure ‘e}Gag ApeAy Jo poy 
 ay} Ivo “[njrynved Sf WOLBOOT OY, “eaweIp UI Jooyx 9o1y}-AJoUTU Bore 
 UB I9AO pils}X9 soyOULIq YSIY} s}t spy ‘punoss oy} ye IIS ur yooy 
 xIs-A} 19M} oINseaM 0} MOsmOoYy, Xq pres st puv “Ywo moeais-19A0 plo ony 
 B® St J ‘ase jeo18 yo A[payqnopun st puv ‘KmzusDd YAK ey} sv yorq 
 Tey sv poetoaor ATYSIY seam meyLsqy Jo YO oy} sv UMOYS Yeo ony, ..°[Ny 
 -ynvaq Ajn4y o1e—yovlq pue odind ‘yurd ‘moyjad ‘azAM—sr10Joo Aueu 
 Jo s19jsnjo Sutdoorp Suoy sey} pue ‘soo1} wodn poures} wayyo 31e sonra 
 :aepnoipuedied sy} ydeoxe apnyiye ayqrssod AraAa ur pautjout syns 
 peYoois Jo Joqunu ojInyUr ue puev seer} [[emMs ‘soysniq ‘s]]eM uopies 
 
 YSnos ‘syTVM ‘S]IIY JO ssourop[IA oquzI0A B { Surytss A1oA pure setpnoad 
 ajinb st sprefantaA asay} jo souvivedde ay,, -yoog ay, pun puvT 
 ‘aorjejndod ay} yo aorsodoid aSr1ey v r0z y10d 
 
 ayy uy ‘skes uosmoy, 
 -dns uleut B 018 pu ooNIsIp SUOT B Ioy saprs [Iq Surdoys oy} to AaTTeA 
 ay} Jaaod sprvhoutA osoyy, ‘“Surmseyo Ada st worqay{ jo }soM pue q}Iou 
 Sut] sprvAoura SAIsua}x9 puv [NJIINvEq 9} YSno1y} Avo snourez ay} 0} 
 aALIp ayy, ‘suurssyid 10; sordsoy ev 3] Inq s19y DAVY OYA ‘sUBIssSNY 9Y} 
 0} sStojeq ‘Yvo ay} YPM ‘Hapies sy, “YVO s,weyviqy Jo ‘o1meyy jo 
 YVO [VUOTPIpeI} 9Y} SI WOIqs}yZ JO jsoMY}ION jJ[eY vB puy spl y “jsvoo 
 Bas 9Y} JO WOTIIIp oY} UI YYMoUIOs poum} pue woyesnief[ 0} Surpesy 
 peor 94} yet Aey} pasoddns st yt worqay{}Y “Worqayy{ sve Yowq zVeyz 
 
 sv y481g oy} Surimp passed Aprme7 ATOFT oY} MO oy} sv oes 9} 
 
 st jdAsyq ur umolos 94} Wor; BIMJEI dy} JO peor [BUOTI pes} oy, 
 
 —WVOS.ANVHVUAV 4O ‘FAYWVAW AO HAVO AH 
 
URYET EL ’ANAB.—If upon leaving Hebron, Joseph and Mary passed 
 through Ain Karim, where Elizabeth lived, they would reach the Jaffa road near 
 
 @\ Kuryetel’Anab. Kuryet el ’Anab, ‘The village of grapes,”’ has long had a bad 
 “ notoriety as the residence of Abu Ghosh, the mountain robber. Dr. Robinson 
 identifies it with Kirjath Jearim, often mentioned in the Bible from the time of Joshua 
 who assigned it to Judah in the days of Jeremiah. It was here that the ark rested for 
 twenty years in the house of Abinadab, when it was brought up from Beth-shemesh. 
 The village is on the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, about ten miles from the Holy City, 
 on the right bank of a wady. The ancient Hebrew name signified ‘City of Forests;” 
 “‘rather,’’ says Dr. Thomson, ‘‘ of tangled woods and thorny thickets ; eae 
 
 in subse- 
 —82 
 
 quent times, when the name was changed to Kuryet el ’Anab, vineyards had become 
 the characteristic feature of the place.’’ The place is now called Abu Ghosh, by 
 the natives, in memory of the powerful village Sheikh of that name, who was virtually 
 master of the surrounding country during the early part of this century. His daring rob- 
 beries and cold blooded murders for a long time kept the whole country in terror, 
 Turkish pashas included. “The village consists of a number of substantial stone houses 
 grouped around two or three, which, from their size and strength, might almost be called 
 castles. These are the hereditary mansions of the once celebrated chief.’? Dr. Robinson 
 identifies Kuryet el ’Anab (Kirjath Jearim) with Emmaus. Dr. Thomson says: ‘It is the 
 right distance from Jerusalem and may be both Kirjath Jearim and Emmaus.” 
 
CENE ON THE JERUSALEM ROAD.—We are taught by the 
 
 Scriptures that Joseph and Mary did not pass through Jerusalem on their return 
 
 from Egypt to Nazareth. St. Luke does not speak of the flight into Egypt, but 
 simply says: ‘And when they had performed all things according to the law of 
 the Lord, they returned into Galilee, to their own city, Nazareth.’’—Luke, ii: 39. St. 
 Mathew, however, says: “But when Herod was dead, behold, an angel of the Lord 
 appeareth in a dream to Joseph in Egypt, saying, Arise, and take the young child and his 
 mother, and go into the land of Israel; for they are dead which sought the young child’s 
 life. And he arose and took the young child and his mother, and came into the land of 
 Israel. 
 Herod, he was afraid to go thither ; notwithstanding being warned of God in a dream, he 
 
 And when he heard that Archelaus did reign in Judea, in the room of his father, 
 
 turned aside into the parts of Galilee. And he came anddwelt in a city called Nazareth.” 
 Mathew, ii: 19, 20, 21, 22, 23. According to tradition, they left Jerusalem to the right and 
 passed Lydda and Ramleh, and thence following a line not far from the sea-coast 
 northward. If they came into the road leading from Jerusalem to the coast, as near to the 
 holy city as Kuryet el-Anab, they would pass the scene given in the above picture. At any 
 rate, we get in this picture a view typical of the Judean Mountains. Dr. Andrews, whose 
 chronological order we follow in this work, thinks the return from Egypt took place in the 
 summer. This being true, the wild flowers which illuminated this whole region in the 
 spring of 1894, as the writer and the artist of this work passed through these mountains, 
 were withered and gone. These wild heights in summer are said to be utterly barren and 
 desolate, the hot sun parching the flowers and plants to their very roots. 
 
 Se— 
 
ILL OF SARIS. —Leaying the scene described on the Jerusalem road, Joseph 
 and Mary would next pass the Hill of Saris. The village of Saris lies on the 
 road from Jaffa to Jerusalem on a plateau with numerous olive trees. Winding up 
 the side of another valley we ascend the hill on which lie the ruins of the ancient 
 
 From the top of this hill a beautiful view of the tree-crowned, flower-decked plains 
 The hill wears a 
 
 Saris. 
 may be seen, while beyond lies the silent sea shining in the sunlight. 
 ciously spread their protecting arms as if to shut out the very 
 “T have often tried,’”’ says Thomson, ‘‘to realize 
 Covered 
 
 which gr 
 
 crown of wild oliv 
 memory of the desolate ruins at their feet. 
 the appearance of these valleys and hills around Jerusalem during the great feasts. 
 with olive groves, fruit orchards and terraced vineyards, beneath whose friendly bowers 
 
 many a happy family and neighborhood group assembled, rising rank over rank to 
 the very top of the mountains; I marvel that no artist has thought of reproducing 
 On the hills in this region the carob-tree (Locust), with its gnarled 
 branches and dense foliage may often be seen. A wonderful profusion of flowering shrubs 
 are found here, which in their season are masses of perfumed blossoms. 
 visited this region in the right season for observing the full display of bloom, sa. 
 “Then the ground, wherever there was a fragment of open space, was covered with tall, red 
 hollyhocks, pink convolyulus, valerians, a beautiful large, red limum, a gladiolus, agigantic 
 mottled arum, red tulips, tufts of exquisite cyclamen, a mass of bloom under every tree. 
 * * *. It was the Garden of Eden run wild ; yet all this beauty scarcely lasts a month.” 
 
 the scene.” 
 
 Tristram, who 
 
 —n 
 
> yOSQUE OF WADY ’ALI.—This quiet praying place on the Jaffa road, 
 of course, was not here when Joseph and Mary, with the infant Jesus, passed, 
 It is interesting, however, as an expression of the religious life of a people who 
 now largely occupy the country in which our Savior grew up. Entering the 
 Wady ’Ali through the Bab el Wady, or Gate of the Valley, a short walk takes us to the 
 
 ruins of a mosque situated at a spot called Nasara, the narrowest part of the valley. A 
 few fragments of massi 
 
 e walls overhung by wide, spreading branches of trees, are seen 
 by the curious traveler; but how little they have to tell of the years gone by. The 
 wady, or valley, in which these ruins are found, is a long, deep ravine, extremely wild 
 
 and dreary on either side. Hackett says: ‘It is so narrow sometimes as scarcely 
 
 to allow the traveler to pass between the rocky walls which enclose it. In some places 
 these mount up so high with overhanging crags as to spread a gloom, a sort of twi- 
 light, over the chasm below.’”? The mountainous parts of Palestine abound in such 
 ravines. South of Larmel, on the way to Jaffa, there is a rent between the rocks 
 which is known as ‘“‘Valley of Death Shade.” 
 with such scenes that led him to sing: 
 “When I walk through the Valley of Death-shade, 
 
 I will fear no evil; 
 
 For thou art with me, 
 
 Thy rod and thy staff they comfort me.”’ 
 
 It may have been King David’s familiarity 
 
 2 35—— 
 
and watched over by the solemn ruins of ancient Saris on the near by hills, Joseph 
 
 and Mary would go down into Wady ’Ali by a very s “A more suit- 
 
 able place,” says a traveler ‘‘for bandits could not be imagined. ‘The road i 
 bad that it is impossible to flee from threatening danger; the tangled dwarf forest i 
 dense that it is impossible to see it ; and the sharp rocks are in places so close to the narrow 
 path, that the muzzle of the rifle may touch the traveler’s breast while its owner is hid by 
 the projecting cliff.’ This unpromising path leads us to Bab el Wady, or “gate of the 
 valley,’”’ where the ravine opens out into the plain. Ages ago, when the Philistines “came 
 up even to Mickmash ” with their horses and chariots, they may have ascended this same 
 Wady ’Ali, and thence across the country to Gibeon, as travelers do in these days. ‘That 
 
 We *ALI.—Leaving the small village of Saris, nestling among olive trees 
 
 “=p path. 
 
 so 
 
 little caravan of modern Gibeonites,”’ s: 
 with their old sacks and lean donkeys 
 Jerusalem market,’’ ez suggests the narrative in the ninth chapter of Joshua. 
 rude and ragged rabble from Abu Ghosh, one can easily discover very plausible Gibeonites. 
 arried water-bottles in place ofthe “ wine-bottles old, and rent, and bound py 
 ainly displayed to good advantage the old shoes and clouted upon their feet, 
 and old, old garments upon them ‘‘of which Joshua speaks.’”’ Near the Bab el Wady, there 
 is a little ruined “‘mukam,” or station, sacred to the famous Im4m ’Aly, to whom 
 the deeds of Samson and Joshua are commonly accredited by the peasants. ‘It 
 is conspicuous,” says Lieut. Conder, “from the fine group of aged terebinths 
 which shade the little mihrab, or prayer-niche.”’ 
 
 Dr. Thomson, “which we have just passed, 
 loaded with brushwood and dry roots for the 
 In the 
 
 it 
 
 True they 
 
 —86— 
 
Lone 
 
 meen 
 
 ALLEY OF AJALON.—Leaving Wady ’Ali, our pilgrims would pass down 
 
 into the valley of Ajalon, A broad, fertile valley, about fourteen miles from 
 Jerusalem, called Merj Ibn ’Omier, is the celebrated Valley of Ajalon, where Joshua, 
 the great leader of Israel stood on one eventful day, looking back towards Gibeon 
 and down upon the noble valley before him, and uttered the celebrated command, 
 “Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon; and thou, moon, in the valley of Ajalon.” ‘The 
 confederate host that attacked Gibeon and was defeated by Joshua, fled down the valley 
 past Beth-horon, and the victorious army ‘“ chased them along the way that goeth up from 
 Beth-horon, and smote them to Azekah and unto Makkedah.”’ ‘Thomson says: ‘‘ These 
 places are all still found in exact agreement with the account of the great victory, as given 
 
 in the tenth chapter of Joshua.’’ Ajalon, ‘a place of deer, or gazelles,’’ was a Levitical 
 city of Dan. It was also one of the cities of tefuge.—Joshua, xxi: 24. ‘he noted valley was, 
 doubtless, near at hand. Ajalon is the modern Galo, on a long hill, on the south side of 
 the noble valley whose name it bears. Dean Tristain thus describes the entrance to the 
 valley of Ajalon: “We ascended a rounded ridge, when the Mediterranean and Plain of 
 Sharon burst upon our view, and we descended rapidly towards the plain. Keeping at the 
 bottom of picturesque, rocky ravines, clothed with dwarf oak, arbutus, and other shrubs, 
 and with many a plantation of olive and carob trees, the young foliage of which gave life 
 and lightness to the landscape. Flocks of goats were browsing in the valleys and on the 
 hill-sides, and altogether the country had a civilized and homely look.” 
 
 —37— 
 
ENERAL VIEW OF RAMLEH.—Though the traditional road our 
 © pilgrims followed on their return, is supposed to have passed the spot where 
 Ramleh now stands, it must be remembered that no town was here then. 
 
 Ramleh (signifying sand) is a name of purely Arabic origin. The town was 
 
 founded in 716 by the Mayyad Khalif Suleiman, the son of Abd el-Melik. Ramleh 
 isthree miles southwest of Lydda, at the intersection of the great roads from Damascus 
 to Egypt, and from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Edrisi, in the XIIth Century, calls Ramleh and 
 Jerusalem the two principal cities of Palestine. Its position made it a place of im- 
 portance during the wars of the Crusades. Ramleh was once fortified and had four 
 large and eight smaller gates. Christians lived there, and churches were built before 
 the time of the Crusades. In 1099 a bishopric of Lydda and Ramleh was established. 
 
 During the wars between the Franks and Saladin, Ramleh was twice taken by the Sar- 
 After 1266, when it was wrested from the Franks by Beibars, it was wholly 
 occupied by Moslems. Near the close of the XVth Century it fell entirely into decay 
 and is now a village of about 3000 inhabitants —two-thirds Moslems and the rest 
 It now contains few buildings or ruins earlier than the times of the 
 Crusades. Its chief monuments are the Tower of Ramleh, the ‘“‘ White Mosque,” south- 
 west of the town. One traveler thus describes Ramleh: ‘“‘ On approaching the town we 
 enter a tract of heavy sand, which covers the narrow lanes, even among the fields and 
 gardens. ‘The town is embowered in olive groves and orchards, among which the 
 palm, Khartib, and sycamore abound, gardens and fields of grain, fenced by hedges of 
 cactus, give a rich and flourishing aspect to Ramleh.” 
 
 acens. 
 
 Christians, 
 
 eggs 
 
— 6Q— 
 
 < AUO.T 9] JO 
 TOMO} Tayyneeq oq} 9osol ule} sA0qe pue ‘areyd Sso[eos} ot} ur SISEO 
 
 7Aep B polio; o19y saao1s sATjo Suoy ey, “peor 9y} wo puno. 
 JO 9SIT B WOIF IISIA JsIGY Sl YorYM ‘19aM0} 94} JO YSIS Ut 
 
 HMOpUNS s1Ojeq paedAlie osA\,, :sny} YeTmey jo uo 4siy. 
 B SOALS Jopuoy) ‘osiay asodox ‘eroopeddeg jo srdzrvur uenstmD Az10F 
 yey} JL SPY WOIsIeA UvIASIIyYD YI, aq} JO s}[NeVA 9} UT 
 peng ere yeydoid ay} jo smornedutos Ayroy yey, yore oy} 07 
 UOMpel} UVpoulMvyo, B SI a1OYT, ., [OBIS] JO suUTeJUNOP, 94} 4SvO 
 oY} WO pus “vos 94} SI jsoM 94} UQ ‘uMINne jo Avi8 Surdreaun oy} 10 
 ‘Temuns AT1v9 Jo ony Uapjos oy} Jo ‘Burids Jo ompsdA oy} YPM “tosuas 91] 
 0} Surprooo8 ‘pazu1y “ured ssaypunog v 19A0 siapuea of9 ay} ‘yynos pue 
 Y}ow ‘ssoy} puodsog ‘souentme o[}Ues v UO paywas Uses SI YOIYM “eppA’T 
 JO esoy} Aq payono, are Ay} JseeyIOM oY} WO {49} Mo 7 aT] YoyweY 
 *I9MO} 9} JO AtoTTeS oY} Wor paurezqo 
 
 aid uit 
 
 -onbsout 
 
 ST MaIA [HjINveq pue pepteyxo my ‘sivok JYSIO UL yt paystuy pue 
 ‘ofl “GV FE unSaq aAvy oj podorjeq stay *ydAB% jo JITBYY ‘NN Aylesy 
 Nql pouMmevyN][ Ise 0} 2M0} 94} JO Surpying oy} seqtiose uIq pe 
 ISI “JaF OTI JNoQe st IYSey oy, “10A\0} oy} plnore parsed st YOryM 
 ‘Aia][BS 9103s [eUIE}xXO 1B WO Surtado ‘doz ay} 07 spay] ‘sMopuTM pazutod 
 Aq poazyysiy ‘esvoire}s Surpurm y ‘serrojs ur spreadn sede} sapis ay} 
 pur ‘ 1}jhq Japusts <q poyroddns ase sopsuv ayy, “YING ATMyHNeaq 
 pue ‘orenbs ‘ormeovreg onbsowt v 0}. payoryye 900 sea 
 }E JY} JQnop 9197] aq UO s19T} JN ‘poyLTOST MOT sf IAMOPST YT, “Wey 
 snotords 8 ‘ssayyqnop ‘a010—a.msojous zvpnsuvipenb aS81v] v jo sureuror 
 a4} SIV UT punory “YoTWeY Jo WA0} oY} Woy oprur vB Jo Ioy1enb & ynoqe 
 punois YSiq Uo spuejs—suorduieyD 4710.7 ay} Jo quIOY, ‘suIETSOTT 
 
 ay} Aq pue—siXqieyy AVIO\T oy} JO TOMO, “AMOI, oy MW ‘onbsoy 
 
 SYA PY} sv ‘somen snorea Aq uMoTY (pedqy je Tuel) yeyuey ©) 
 
 fo MOL ML —“SHUALAVW ALAYOX AO AAMO 
 
 I J9MO} OIL, 
 
YDDA.-—After passing about three miles from Ramleh our homeward pilgrims 
 would come next to Lydda. Lydda, Léd or Ludd, was occupied by the Benjamites 
 after the captivity. It was also the place where Peter healed the paralytic Eneas— 
 
 It was burned in the time of Nero, but soon reappeared as the 
 
 Acts, ix: 32-35. 
 
 capitol of a district of Judea. It was long famed for its learned rabbinical school. In 445 
 an ecclesiastical council was held at Lydda, at which Pelagius defended himself. In 1191 
 
 Lydda was destroyed by Saladin, but recovered itself, though never reaching its former im- 
 portance. The great attraction of Lydda is the church of St. George on the south side of 
 the village. Iydda is mentioned at a very early period in connection with St. George. A 
 tradition says that Mohammed declared that at the last day Christ would slay Antichrist 
 at the gate of Lydda. ‘This is no doubt a distorted version of the story of St. George and 
 
 the dragon. 
 
 A church was erected over the tomb of St. George, at Lydda, at a very 
 early period. 
 
 The Crusaders are said to have found a ‘‘ magnificent monument’’ here, 
 though the church had been destroyed. The present church is in possession of the Greeks 
 who restored it a few years ago. In the XVth Century it was converted into a mosque. 
 Thomson describes Lydda, or Ludd, as “‘a flourishing village of some 2000 inhabitants, 
 embowered in groves of olive, fig, pomegranate, mulberry, palm, s 
 and surrounded every way by a very fertile neighborhood. 
 
 ‘amore and other trees, 
 The village contains remains 
 of large and well constructed buildings mingled in with the modern huts. Severai exten- 
 sive soap factories are now deserted and falling to decay. A special interest attaches to 
 Lydda as being the village to which Peter was summoned on account of the death of 
 Dorcas. 
 
 —jo— 
 
ITE OF THE HOUSE OF TABITHA.—tThe route conjectured as the 
 
 one followed by the Holy Family upon their return from the sojourn in Egypt to 
 
 SS Nazareth, reaching Lydda turns more directly to the northward. Jaffa is not 
 entered. This old sea-coast town, however, is intimately associated with the history 
 
 of the race to which our Savior belonged, and is also the scene of the conversion of St. 
 Peter to the conception that the love of God in Christ is without respect to races or climes. 
 This work then would not be complete without giving illustrations of it. At Lydda, Joseph 
 
 and Mary were about ten miles from Jaffa. We will leave our pilgrims for a while and 
 enter Jaffa from the Jerusalem road. Before entering the city we pass through the sandy 
 downs and bushy slopes of the plain of upper Sharon and come in the suburbs of the city 
 to the site of the House of Tabitha. ‘This woman was full of good works and of alms deeds 
 which sbe did, and her tomb is marked by a group of sycamore trees near the house which 
 
 is given in the above view. The peasants seen about here look wretchedly poor. Looking 
 at their rags and squalid appearance one can not help wishing that Dorcas might again 
 make coats and garments for the people of her old town. While Peter was at Lydda he 
 received word that Tabitha was dead. ‘And forasmuch as Lydda was nigh unto Joppa, 
 and the disciples had heard that Peter was there, they sent unto him two men desiring him 
 that he would not delay to come unto them. ‘Then Peter arose and went with them. 
 When he was come, they brought him into the upper chamber, and all the widows stood 
 by him weeping and showing the garments which Dorcas had made while she was with 
 them. But Peter put them all forth, and kneeled down and prayed. And turning him to 
 the body said, Tabitha, arise. And she opened her eyes, and when she saw Peter she sat 
 up. And it was known throughout all Joppa; and many believed in the Lord.’’? In the 
 above view we are looking toward the East. 
 
 —9I— 
 
wet eT 
 
 4 
 
 ae 
 
 Pecverry 
 
 ANORAMA OF JAFFA.—Leaving the house of Tabitha, we pass through 
 the streets of Jaffa down to the sea. In a little boat we row some distance from 
 the shore that we may get a view of the town. One can only get a complete 
 panorama of Jaffa from the sea. Nearly the entire city can be seen at a glance. It 
 
 occupies the north and northwest sides of the small cape on which it stands. ‘The houses 
 
 rise tier above tier from the very verge of the sea. ‘The declivity is so precipitous that 
 the flat roofs of the several tiers of houses make a continued stairway. ‘The prospect is 
 very interesting. Stretching southward over the quarantine ground, over the plains of 
 
 Phistea, over the gardens and across the plains of Sharon to the distant Judean hills, 
 while westward the grand and wide sea rolls far away to the distant horizon. « Conder: 
 says: ‘‘The glory of Jaffa consists of its gardens, which stretch inland about a mile 
 and a half, and extend north and south for a length of two miles, where oranges, bananas, 
 pomegrantes and olives grow in thick groves, surrounded by prickly pears, and narrow 
 lanes of thick sand lies between them.” He adds that, ‘‘ The scent of the oranges is 
 said to be at times perceptible some miles from land to approaching ships.’ ‘The view 
 from this point one can never forget, 
 
 —92— 
 
OAD IN THE HARBOR OF JAFFA.—The writer approached the 
 shore of Palestine on the roth day of March, 1863. He saw the yellow sands of the 
 Philistian plain, the Judean hills veiled in the delicate mist, and the town of Joppa 
 standing on its projecting headland, rising up house above house, with minarets 
 
 and towers, and on every side of the city, green fields and pleasant gardens. Jaffa is called 
 “The Port of Jerusalem,’’ but has no proper harbor, and it is only under favorable circum- 
 stances of wind and wave that a vessel may come to anchor and ship her freight for the 
 city. ‘There is a little road or enclosure, sometimes called a harbor. It is beyond a dangerous 
 reef that runs parallel with the shore, and the opening through it is only sufficient for one 
 boat, and the noisy surf tumbling about the rocks around him makes the voyager exceedingly 
 
 glad to reach the little space of quiet water beyond. This was the only harbor possessed 
 by the Jews throughout the greater part of their national existence. There is no other 
 port aloug the coast and through it nearly all the foreign commerce of the Jews 
 was conducted until the artificial port of Caesarea was built by Herod. Through 
 this road Hiram brought his rafts of fragrant cedar wood and pine for the build- 
 ing of the first temple at Jerusalem; and Cyrus, generations after, used it as a 
 port of entry for the material of the second temple. From various tourists we 
 have thrilling accounts of the landings of travelers. It is the true monster 
 who has devoured many Andromedas for whose deliverence no gallant Perseus was 
 at hand. 
 
 =O 
 
OUSE Or ST. PETER, JAFFA.-— Descending from the highest part of 
 
 Jaffa to the extreme northwest corner of the city, we find the house of Simon, the 
 
 Tanner, “‘by the sea.’’ Tradition says, it was here Peter prayed about the sixth 
 
 hour, fell into a trance, saw heaven open and the great sheet let down. A distin- 
 guished writer says, ‘‘ We Gentiles should regard this vision of Peter with special interest, 
 and I see no reason why tradition may not have preserved the knowledge of the site. 
 Both Christians and Mohammedans reverence the place. The roofs of the houses even 
 now have a wall or balustrade around them where a person may sit or kneel without 
 exposure to the view of others.” Dr. Hackett says, “‘At Jerusalem I entered the house of 
 a Jew early one morning and found a member of the family sitting secluded and alone, on 
 
 one of the lower roofs, engaged in reading the Scripture and offering his prayers.’’ When 
 surrounded by battlements, and shaded by vines trained over them like those of the present 
 day, they would afford a very agreeable retreat even at the “sixth hour.’ Peter was here 
 prepared to preach the gospel of salvation to the heathen world. ‘The Christ whom he 
 proclaimed had himself given the commission to his apostles and to his church to go into 
 all the world and preach the gospel to every creature. ‘The tradition which is called 
 to our mind by this locality is quite ancient, but no one pretends to believe that the 
 existing house with its well and tanner’s slab is the identical house spoken of in the 
 Scriptures, but the site has at least this much in its favor — it is in ‘Joppa,’ and “ by the 
 seaside.” 
 
 —94— 
 
AZAR OF JAFFA.— Passing through the bazars of any of the cities of 
 Palestine we doubtless witness the very same scenes common in the days of our 
 Savior. The very same things are sold, and the disposition to use many words in 
 buying and selling is the same to-day as in the time when He was upon earth, In 
 
 A lone palm tree stands to the left of the 
 
 picture and the entire view is typical of Jaffa. The liveliest spot in the city is the market 
 
 place. 
 spread out their wares, sit in the shade and wait for custom. Turbaned men and veiled 
 women, with here and there a little brown-skinned, bare-footed boy among them, move in 
 
 the above view we are looking toward the sea. 
 
 Here the venders, dressed in unique costumes, raise their canvased canopy, 
 
 and out among the booths. Heavily laden camels go slowly along, and over - burdened 
 donkeys do their share in this bewildering march. It is a veritable Oriental fair, a Babel 
 of confusion ; every one for himself and each ambitious to make the loudest possible 
 noise. Here are exposed for sale oranges, pomegranates, quinces, apricots and all kinds 
 of vegetables in their season. The Fellahins, also from the villages, bring here their 
 sheep and goats, lambs and kids, cows and calves, milk, butter and cheese, poultry and 
 eggs, figs, olives and every other kind of fruit, fresh or dried, which they have to sell. 
 They display these things in baskets, or round trays, or small earthen jugs. With the 
 proceeds of their sale they buy articles such as they need and then return to their homes. 
 ey 
 
AFFA FROM HOTEL WINDOW.—“Jaffa,” “Joppa” or “Yafa” is a 
 city with a history. Traditionally it is the oldest city in the world. 
 ‘Oldest of cities! Linked with sacred truth 
 And classic fable from thy earliest dawn, 
 By name ‘The Beautiful.’ ” 
 
 No city in the world has had a more remarkable record. It has been alternately 
 Pagan, Jew, Moslem, Arab, Mameluke and Christian. It has been sacked and wasted by 
 war, swept by pestilence, fire and sword, rebuilt, walled and fortified only to be again 
 destroyed. 
 
 “City of gladness where Apostle’s hands 
 Wrought miracles of love and dried up tears ; 
 And with a word unlocked the gate of death.” 
 
 The town is defended by a wall, on which a few old guns are mounted. Its dirty lanes and 
 alleys are uninviting, but this aspect is redeemed by the freshness and beauty of its 
 towering palms, its lemon groves and its orange orchards and fruit gardens. ‘The sudden 
 transition from the discomfort of the ship to these quiet gardens is something to be remem- 
 bered. A traveler says, ‘‘In March and April these Jaffa gardens are indeed enchanting. 
 The air is over-loaded with the mingled perfume of oranges, apples, apricots, quinces, 
 plums and China trees in bloom.’? The legendary and historic associations combine to 
 make Jaffa a center of interest to the visitor, who, coming to Palestine by sea, there first 
 sets foot upon the soil of the land where the Savior was born.” 
 
 —o6— 
 
GYoyOUNT CARMEL.— Coming back to Lydda, we start with our pilgrims 
 
 again toward Nazareth. ‘The route north of Lydda is represented as leading by 
 Antiratris and Bethar and Aner, in the Tretrarchy of Herod Archelaus. Entering 
 the plain of Esdrzlon, ‘they would be in sight of Mount Carmel, overlooking 
 the sea to their left. Carmel is one of the prominent objects in sight of which Christ grew 
 up. It is one of the sacred mountains of Palestine. It is associated especially with 
 Elijah—I, Kings, xvii: 30. One thinks of the ‘“ Altar of God,” the ‘‘ River Kishon,”’ and 
 the failure of the ‘‘Priests of Baal.’ The sea is invisible from the traditional spot of 
 Elijah’s miracle, therefore the Prophet’s servant must have climbed to a higher point of 
 Carmel to see a ‘liftle cloud no bigger than a man’s hand spring gradually over the sea.” 
 
 Carmel is described as ‘‘a triangular block of mountains, the apex being the promontory 
 on which the Carmelite monastery stands.” The little town of Haifa nestles under the 
 promontory, and is thus sheltered from the southwest wind, and its bay forms the best 
 harbor on the coast. Sweeping seaward, Carmel is the first of the hills of Israel to meet 
 the rains. George Adam Smith, in his Historical Geography, says: ‘“‘The two hills; 
 Carmel and Tabor, stand on opposite ends of Esdreelon, each separated from the other hills, 
 but Carmel’s long sweep northward invests him with the air of having ‘come there. 
 As I live, saith the King, whose name is the Lord of Hosts, surely as Tabor is among the 
 mountains, and as Carmel by the sea, so shall he come.”” In 1799, the sick of Napoleon's 
 army were sheltered in the monastery at Carmel, but were killed by the Mosteus. 
 
 —9q7— 
 
OUNT TABOR.—YTo the right and to the east of our pilgrims, as they passed 
 through the plains of Esdreelon, they would see Mount Tabor. Tabor is one of 
 the traditional mounts of transfiguration. Hermon, on the north, contests with 
 Tabor this honor. Churches have been built upon Tabor and pilgrimages have 
 
 been made to it, and for fifteen centuries it has been honored as one of the shrines of the 
 Holy Land, ‘Tabor is situated on the frontier of Issachar and Zebulun. It was here that 
 Deborah directed Barak to assemble an army, and hence the Israelites marched into the 
 plain and defeated Sisera.—Judges, iv. It is more than 2,000 feet above the sea, and is 
 dome-like in form. The slopes are wooded, the soil fertile, the pasture rich. The view 
 from Mount Tabor is extensive. To the east the north end of the sea of Tiberias is visible, 
 
 and in the extreme distance the blue chain of the Bashan Mountains. Toward the south 
 and north the view resembles that from the high ground above Nazareth. ‘To the west 
 rises Mount Carmel, to the north are lofty hills, and the south of Safed is in sight. © Out- 
 towering all other summits is the majestic Hermon. | Rev. J. l,. Porter says of the view 
 from Mount Tabor: “It is one of those wonderful panoramas which time can never 
 obliterate from the memory.”’ The ruins on the summit of Tabor are extensive and are 
 overgrown with thorns, briers and thistles, Some of these may date back as far as the 
 sixth century, when three churches were erected here in memory of the ‘three taber- 
 nacles’”’ which S.. Peter proposed to build. ‘The two monasteries which now occupy the 
 top of the hill are comparatively modern. ‘ 
 
 —98— 
 
ENIN BY EARLY MORNING LIGHT.—Jenin is perhaps ten miles 
 
 to the right of the route Joseph and Mary are supposed to have followed on 
 
 @) their return from the sojourn in Egypt. It is one of the places, however, our 
 Lord often passed during the years of His active ministry. Jenin issupposed to be the 
 Ginea of Josephus, which again answers to the ancient En-gannin or ‘Garden Spring” 
 (Joshua, xix:21) with the territory of Issachar. The road from Nazareth to Jerusalem 
 always passed this way, therefore, we are on sure ground again as we think of Mary on her 
 way to Jerusalem with Joseph; on her way from Egypt; on her way from Nazareth to 
 Jerusalem again when the Jad Jesus was twelve years of age. Jenin is a well-built town of 
 some importance. It wasnevera fortress, but its soil is fertile and its verdure uncommonly 
 beautiful. It is situated on the boundary between the mountains of Samaria and the plains 
 
 Esdrelon. An excellent spring, rising to the east, is conducted through the village which 
 abounds with fruit orchards and large gardens. Jenin is now the chief town betwecn 
 Nablous and Nazareth. Its people are Moslems, fanatical, rude and rebellious. ‘There are 
 a few families of the Greek faith. The inhabitants deal in all the products of the country, 
 and their best customers are the Bedouin Arabs on the east of Jordan. ‘Their dress is 
 peculiar. H. B. Tristram describes it thus: ‘“Mhey wear no trousers, but a long blue and 
 white striped cassock reaching to the ankles and bound around the waist by a broad 
 leather girdle.” This was the dress which was selected by Holman Hunt for the boy 
 Jesus in his picture of ‘The Finding of Christ inthe Temple.” Jenin is also the very 
 neighborhood where Deborah sang her unique song of triumph after Barak’s glorious 
 victory.—Judges, v: 3. 
 
 =66— 
 
istic of Palestine from the days of Abraham to the present time. Joseph and Mary 
 
 doubtless passed many such scenes on the lonely journey they were making to 
 
 Nazareth. The valley of Jezreel may truly be said to be ‘‘the home of the 
 wandering Bedawy.’’ ‘The Swgr, a tribe from the East, in the spring time occupies the 
 whole valley of Jezreel, and in times of disturbance goes into the plain of Esdrelon- 
 These various tribes migrate between assigned limits, wandering over some two hundred 
 and four hundred square miles. Their migrations are regulated by the temperature of the 
 seasons and by the water supply and pasturage. Thus they wander from one spring to 
 another, to the sheltered valleys in winter and to shaded, breezy slopes in summer. These 
 nomads resemble the Jews when for forty years they lived in the wilderness going from 
 
 Bree UIN CAMP, JEZREEL.—In the above view we have a scene character- 
 
 place to place. The Midianites and the Amalekites and other children of the East invaded 
 Palestine three thousand years ago with their flocks and herds. ‘hey were numerous and 
 destructive. In the valley of Jezreel were their headquarters, and with their tents, cattle 
 and camels, horse-men and domedary-men, swept the whole country. Murray thus 
 describes a scene on this spot in the spring of 1857: ‘‘The great Bedawy Chief Akeil Agha 
 assembled his followers and allies after the massaere of the Kurds at Hattan, to divide the 
 spoil. There they lay along in the valley like grasshoppers for multitude and their camels 
 without number. I almost felt when I looked on their wild faces and heaps of plunder‘as if the 
 sacred Scriptures were realized.”’ The dress, the trappings, the habits of the Bedouins are 
 just what they were thirty centuries ago. The Bedouin camp is an object of peculiar interest. 
 The tent of the Sheik is always known by a spear which stands on the ground before it. 
 
 —I00— 
 
AZARETH FROM THE EAST. — After an absence, according to Dr. 
 
 Andrews, of something like six months, the Holy Family with the infant Jes 
 
 came in sight again of their own home. If they approached the city from the 
 
 East they would get the view, as far as the topographical features are concerned, 
 given above. Nazareth stands almost mid-way between the Jordan and the Mediterranean 
 Sea, as we have already said. It lies on the eastern slope of the hill, from thessummit of 
 which a magnificent prospect opens out. Toward the north are the hills of Galilee and 
 the majestic summits of the snow-crowned Hermon. On the east is the Jordan valley and 
 in dim outline the heights of the ancient Bashan. ‘To the south spreads the beautiful 
 plain of Esdreelon, with Mount Tabor, Little Hermon and Gilboa; in sight, beyond, are 
 the hills of Samaria, and on the west Carmel faces the blue waters of the Mediterranean. 
 No traveler should miss this view from the hill behind Nazareth. It is perhaps the richest 
 
 and most extensive in all Palestine. The nearer hills are wooded, and drop in gracefu 
 slopes to broad and widening valleys of “living green.” In the village below, upon this 
 eastern slope, the Savior of the world passed his childhood. His feet must frequently 
 have wandered over these hills, and his eyes looked again and again from the summit as 
 do the eyes of pilgrims now, Here the Prince of Peace looked upon the great plain of 
 Esdreelon, where had so often been heard the din of battle; and upon that sea over which 
 the swift ships were to bear the tidings of his salvation to continents and nations then 
 unknown. ‘The history of Nazareth seems to cluster about one remarkable event, ‘The 
 Annunciation.”’ Before that the place was unknown. But to the Christian, Nazareth is 
 the home of the Savior’s boyhood ; the scene of his early labors, his prayers, his domestic 
 relations, his whole private life for thirty years. This gives unspeakable charm to the 
 town. 
 
 —— Oa 
 
| 
 
 TREET IN NAZARETH.—I the spring of 1887 we rode into Nazareth 
 about two o’clock in the afternoon. After the pitching of onr tents we rambled 
 through the bazaars, going to the ‘‘Holy Places,”’ the “Altar of the Annunciation” 
 and “‘Mary’s Kitchen,” just back of it, and some distance away ‘“‘Joseph’s Work- 
 
 shop.’ We went into a veritable carpenter shop in the town of Nazareth and watched a 
 
 Nazarene at work. He sawed and planed a small piece of wood for us, and the sight was 
 
 helpful to our faith and suggestive of the genuine life there nearly nineteen hundred 
 
 years ago. Many of the houses of Nazareth are of the simplest and most primitive order 
 
 —made of bricks which are a combination of clay and straw. A piece of rough masonry 
 
 is softened by the whitewash of lime. The houses of the better classes are often built of 
 
 et 
 
 b $ j | 
 if 
 ab i 
 Dat 
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 4 
 
 white limestone. The gardens scattered among them laden with figs and olives, and rich 
 with the white orange blossoms and the scarlet pomegranate, form a charming contrast. 
 On the streets we meet the people of Nazareth in their bright oriental costumes, ~ Naza- 
 teth may have shifted its position slightly during the centuries, but not to any great ex- 
 tent. We can easily see that it is, as to its location, the Nazareth of our Lord’s time. 
 The memories of the dear Child still haunt these hills. Here he lived 
 and played and worked. He lived as lived the other children of peas- 
 ant parents in this quiet village, and in great measure as they live now. Here 
 he prepared himself amidst this hallowed obscurity for His mighty work on 
 earth, 
 
 —I02— 
 
In the above view we have a column and statue erected in honor of the Virgin. It 
 is enclosed by an iron railing, and stands on the side of the Latin church. 
 Another column is lying near it, and these are parts of columns which entered 
 perhaps into the structure of former buildings. It is said that there was not a Christian 
 inhabitant in Nazareth until the the time of Constantine, nor was there a Christian 
 pilgrimage made to it until about the sixth century, In the seventh century two churches 
 were built, one where the Greek church now stands, and the other on the site of Mary’s house, 
 where,the Latin convent is built. After Nazareth fell into the hands of the Crusaders 
 Tancred built a church at Nazareth and turned it over to the See of Scythopolis. This 
 
 (Chg AND STATUE OF THE VIRGIN, NAZARETH.— 
 o 
 
 church was destroyed in 1266, and was not rebuilt until 1620, when permission was 
 granted for its restoration and possession of the Grotto of the Annunciation. The 
 different structures and objects pointed out in Nazareth as connected with the 
 Annunciation, the Last Supper, etc., are interesting, but to most tourists the charm of 
 Nazareth is due to the fact that it was the home of the Savior’s boyhood, and the scene 
 of thirty years of His earthly life. Of this there is no question. The houses we see 
 here, to-day, were not here when Christ was a boy growing up in this quiet country 
 town. There can be no doubt, however, but that the hills and sky lines are the same. 
 And one must be insensible to the noblest things in our civilization and in our life who 
 can look on Nazareth unmoved. 
 
 —103— 
 
ae eT 
 
 but little of the wonderful childhood of Christ in Nazareth save that “He grew 
 and waxed strong in spirit, filled with wisdom, and the grace of God was upon 
 him.’ Here were passed the years of the ripening manhood of our Lord, and 
 here he came in the early days of his ministry to declare his high calling to his old 
 neighbors and companions. Little remains of the old Nazareth which can be identified, 
 but the surrounding hills and the distant sea, upon which the Savior so often gazed, re- 
 main the same. Truly it was ‘‘a central spot in the world which He came to save.’ Some 
 fine buildings have been erected of late years. Among these is an institution for orphan 
 girls, sustained by the ‘Female Educational Society’? of England. We have already in 
 
 ‘Ceca OF THE ENGLISH ORPHANAGE.—We know 
 
 ~ Rime Fio6r 
 
 these pages seen a fine picture of Nazareth from the esplanade of the orphanage, Itis 
 pleasant to remember that He who loved to gather the children about Him, and who 
 taught one of His most heavenly lessons when He “‘set a little child in the midst,” is rep- 
 resented by his followers here in their sacred care and culture of the little ones. In the 
 Latin and Greek churches of Nazareth there are Sunday and day schools in which the 
 Bible is taught, and where is told again and again, as in our own land, the story of the 
 life and death of the world’s Redeemer. Marion Harland writes of the children of Naza- 
 reth: ‘They are healthy, well formed and evidently well-cared for, In all Nazareth, as we 
 note with gratification, we see no deformed child or one professional beggar of tender 
 years, All this may signify less than we fancy, but we are glad that these things are so.” 
 
 —104— 
 
AINT MARY'S WELL, OR THE FOUNTAIN OF THE 
 
 @) VIRGIN, is situated near the ‘‘ Church of the Annunciation.” ‘he spring is a 
 little to the north of the church and is conducted past the altar on the left side. 
 
 There is an opening here, and the Greek pilgrims bathe their eyes and head in the 
 
 sacred stream. Through this conduit the water runs to St. Mary’s Well. It is strongly 
 probable that the child Jesus and his mother often came hither to draw water. An arch is 
 built above it, and steps lead down to the tank and trough. The motley throng which 
 gathers around it toward evening presents a picturesque scene indeed—women with quaint 
 costumes are constantly to be seen drawing water in pitchers of graceful form or climbing 
 
 the wet steps bearing the full vessels upon their heads. The water leaps from a spout 
 into a stone trough where women wash and rinse clothes and chat cherrily among them- 
 selves. Marion Harland writes from this spot: ‘‘Mary was a peasant and a working- 
 woman like these. We think ourselves as if guilty of irreverence in wondering if she bore 
 the narrow-neck pitcher upon her head with the audacious grace of that laughing girl who 
 does not touch it with her hand, and if she adjusted it before mounting to the steps, upon 
 the colored cloth such as the handsome woman down there has impressed between her veiled 
 head and the dripping vessel. Yet, and again, ‘the highly favored among woman’ wasa daugh 
 ter of the people and her son at thirty-three years of age ‘ had not where to lay his head.’ ” 
 
 —I05— 
 
FE aS 
 
 AMELS FEEDING AT NAZARETH.— The Bedouins are professedly cushioned feet, his noiseless solemn tread, imperturbable patience imprinted upon his dun 
 ° Moslems, and are the direct descendants of the half savage nomads who have colored face, seems a picturesque and amiable animal, but to one who knows him well he 
 inhabited Arabia from time immemorial. They live by cattle breeding, and is cross, discontented and often treacherous. H. M. Field in his ‘Review of Recent 
 possess immense herds of sheep and camels, as we said under a former picture. Events in Egypt,” says: “‘Asmy camel and I were to be on somewhat intimate terms, I 
 ‘The eastern branch of the plain of Esdrzlon and the valley of Jezreel, are the home of the approached to make her acquaintance, and even tendered her some little caressing. I 
 wandering Bedouins who often pitch their tents near there. The little town of Nazareth is attempted to stroke her gently; she instantly swung around her long neck and gave me a 
 often harrassed by the quarrels of the Arab chiefs and the predatory attacks of the vicious snap which warned me not to presume on any familiarity.” ‘The camel, with all 
 Bedouins. ‘Their herds feed upon the grassy slopes, the camels seeking the sunshine, or its faults, is an interesting animal. The riding camel, which forms an indispensable 
 loaded with tents and the multifarious furniture of the camp, go roaming abroad “for feature in processions of special character, when smartly caparisoned with shawls and 
 fresh fields and pastures green,”’ ‘To the stranger the slow-paced camel with his soft- strings of coins, is exceedingly artistic. E 
 
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 time of the return from Egypt to the beginning of the ministry of our Savior are 
 
 passed over by St. John and St. Mark in absolute silence. St. Ike tells us that 
 
 “The child grew and waxed strong in spirit, filled with wisdom, and the grace of 
 God was upon him.” Two or three times we have been permitted to look at this 
 Orphanage. It is a Protestant memorial on a sacred site, commanding a charming view 
 and serving a philanthropic, a Christian purpose. It connects the thought of childhood 
 in our day with the childhood of Jesus. One almost envies the good people who 
 are permitted in this place to do this work. Farrar says: ‘The education of 
 the Jewish boy of the humbler classes was almost solely Scriptural and moral, and His 
 parents, as a rule, were his sole teachers.’’? Marion Harland says: 
 
 Grincor an ORPHANAGE, NAZARETH.—The thirty years from the 
 
 “Those who haye 
 
 Christian parents think and speak of Him as do the children of other Christian countries, 
 The rest know little of Him, and care nothing for Him. We have here Sunday and day 
 schools, in which the Bible is taught, and the story of our Lord’s life and death is well 
 known to the members of the Latin and Greek churches.’ ‘His infancy, a sinless child- 
 hood, a sinless boyhood, a sinless youth, a sinless manhood, was spent here in 
 humility, toil, obscurity, submission, contentment and prayer,” “‘and whatever Jesus may 
 have learned when a child in the house of His mother or in the synagogue, His best 
 teaching was derived from immediate insight into His Father’s will.’ He seemed to be 
 doing nothing wonderful. The saintly Bonaventura said that ‘His doing nothing won- 
 derful was in itselfa kind of wonder. was power 
 in His silence.” 
 
 For His whole life was a mystery—there 
 
ITE OF JOSEPH’S WORK SHOP.—tThe most massive structure in the 
 little town of Nazareth is the Latin Monastery. A little to the northeast of this 
 building is the traditional House or Work Shop of Joseph. The Franciscans 
 gained possession of this spot about the middle of the last century. It is hardly 
 
 worth while to describe the modern chapel, built in 1859, for it lacks the flavor of an- 
 
 tiquity, but this we know that in this little town Jesus grew up from infancy to youth. 
 
 Here he, too, spent the years of his ripening manhood in humble labor. It was his home, 
 
 a home of trustful piety, of purity and of peace. This we may believe with Joseph to 
 
 guide, with Mary to hallow and sweeten it, and with Jesus to illuminate it with the very 
 
 light of heayen. When Joseph returned to Nazareth, to the calm, untroubled seclusion of 
 that happy valley, ne knew that the life of the Virgin and of the Holy Child would be 
 
 spent with him in honest poverty and in manual toil. One writer says: ‘‘ We may safely 
 infer that these years in the home and trade of the carpenter were happy years in our 
 Savior’s life. Jesus chose voluntarily ‘the low estate of the poor.’’? Throughout the 
 whole of his life our Lord was poor. If tradition be true, Joseph held a very humble posi- 
 tion as carpenter, was ‘‘not very skillful and received, probably, a very moderate 
 competence, and with him Christ labored, working with his own hands.” Farrar 
 in his life of Christ says: ‘It has tended to console and sanctify the 
 estate of povery; to ennoble the duty of labor; to elevate the entire conception 
 of manhood, as of a condition which in itself alone and apart from every 
 adventitious circumstance, has its own grandeur and dignity in the sight of 
 God.” 
 
anything good come out of Nazareth?—has come to be thought of as situated in 
 
 a barren and unfertile region. There could not be a greater mistake. It is really 
 
 W HEAT MARKET, NAZARETH.—Nazareth—from the question, Can 
 
 in the midst of the richest soil in Palestine. It overlooks the plain of Esdreelon, 
 perhaps the most fertile valley in the world, and has always existed in a region capable of 
 producing abundant harvests of wheat. In the above picture we have a small open square 
 beside one of the streets in Nazareth where the country people bring their wheat to sell. 
 In Palestine public life is spent chiefly in the open air, in streets or fields. Such scenes as 
 we witness above were, perhaps, familiar to Christ in His boyhood home. Wheat in 
 Palestine is called corn, and has always constituted a staple element of breadstuff. 
 According to Edershein, there was not a more beautiful country than Galilee proper. It 
 
 was here that Ashar had dipped his foot in oil. According to the rabbis, it was easier to 
 rear a forest of olive trees in Galilee than one child in Judea. Corn grew in abundance; 
 the wine, though not so plentiful as the corn, was rich in quality. Proverbially, 
 all fruits grew to perfection, and altogether the cost of living was about one-fifth 
 of that in Judea. Josephus says there were two hundred and forty towns and 
 villages in Galilee, each with not less than fifteen thousand inhabitants. ‘In the 
 center of industry all the then well-known trades were busily carried on. The 
 husbandman pursued his happy toil on genial soil; while, by the Lake of Gen? 
 nesaret, with its unrivaled beauty, its rich villages and lovely retreats, the fisher- 
 man plied his healthy vocation. In the above picture we are looking toward the 
 west.” 
 
Fone 06 
 
 TAR, LATIN CHURCH.—We can never understand the depth and con- 
 tinuity of the religious life of the Jews without remembering that from the begin- 
 ing a religious atmosphere surrounded the child of Jewish parents. ‘These are 
 the things by which a man enjoys the fruits in this world, but their possession con- 
 
 tinueth for the next; to honor father and mother, pious works, peace-ma x between 
 
 man and man, and the study of the law, which is equivalent to them all.’? Devotion to the law 
 
 constituted, in the esteem of the Jews, the chief aim in li 
 
 cerned to give their children a knowledge of the law than they were to leave them an earthly 
 
 inheritance. Among the memorable sayings of the Talmud there is one to the effect that 
 
 “Knowledge of the law may be looked for in those who have sucked it in at their mother’s 
 
 breast.” Of what the true mothers in Israel were can be known by studying the li 
 
 the-mothers of Zebedee’s children, and of Ma of Lydia, of Lois, of Eunice, 
 
 Jewish parents were more con- 
 
 and of Priscilla. There is no department of study that could be pursued with more profit 
 at the present time than the national histo 
 methods adopted by parents to 
 prayers, domestic rights, weekl were all em- 
 ployed with a reference to brin 5 up Jewish children in the knowledge of and 
 with a true love for the lands, traditions, and instituti d 
 true, even to this day, that the children of the Jews are better trained in the 
 knowledge of the Scriptures, and in the ordinan and customs of the J 
 Church, than the children of any other people on the 
 
 years our Savior spent in Nazareth, He was 
 children in the Holy Scriptures, and all the ri 
 Church. 
 
 spected the 
 and united 
 
 being trained as other Jewis 
 and ceremonies of the Jew 
 
PITT 
 
 GEEEITL 
 
 CORY RICH T Rokey rie 
 
 TERIOR LATIN CHURCH OF ANNUNCIATION, NAZA- 
 
 RETH.—It 
 
 the Latin Monastery.” The Church of the Annunciation valls, 
 
 consequently it is naturally the fi 4 the famous Druse Emir, 
 Fakr ed Din, subdued this part of Palestine, and by him permission was given to some 
 Franciscan Monks to build the Church of the Annunciation and a convent near it. 
 then Nazareth has continued tobe a Christian village. Upon visiting this Franciscan 
 Convent you will be conducted by a solemn, reverend monk of that order into the Church 
 of the Annunciatio You will see its long ai its vaulted ceiling, wh 
 upon four immense pillars. On either side are altars. The high altar is r 
 
 Since 
 
 arches rest 
 hed by a 
 
 Rivxer€ Fog. 
 
 flight of marble steps on each is altar is dedicated to the Angel el. Behind 
 this altar is the choir, a large, dark and sombre place, from which mass is said at an e rly 
 hour. One writer says: ‘‘I went at the call of the bell, and heard the mon 
 The mellow tones of the organ and the impressive chanting of the mon 
 s strange land and sacred place at early dawn.’ Nazareth, where 
 s brought up, is so far away that few people can ever hope to make a jour- 
 ney to it, but the Book of Leviticus, the first portion of the Scriptures, that as a boy in 
 school He studied, is in all our homes. If Nazareth i 
 there, should not the Book of Leviticus be doubly 
 there ? 
 
 were quite 
 
 sacred because He was trained 
 cred because He began His studies 
 
ALACE OF HEROD, SAMARIA OR SEBASTE.—Thirty years 
 of silence in the midst of which our Savior grew up is broken only once. This 
 was upon the occasion of the visit of the Holy Family to the feast of the Passover, 
 when Jesus was twelve years of age. ‘Now his parents went to Jerusalem every 
 
 year at the feast of the Passover. And when he was twelve years old they went up to 
 
 Jerusalem after the custom of the feast.’’ ‘The feast of the Passover began on the 8th of 
 
 April, according to Dr. Andrews, and this visit to Jerusalem was made by the Holy Family 
 
 in the year A. D. 8, according to the same authority. It must be remembered, in order to 
 
 understand the calendar which began the Christian era, that from some error in the 
 calculation it is four years too late. The journey of Jesus and His mother, from 
 
 Nazareth in Galilee to the Holy City of Jerusalem, would be full of historic associations 
 
 which the lad with His ample knowledge of the Jewish Scriptures would readily recall. 
 
 The lad of Shunem whom the prophet so long ago brought to life; the mother’s faith 
 
 and deyotion; the joy of that restoration; the cruel arrest and sale of Joseph over 
 there at Dotham; the cruelty and crimes of Ahab, brought to mind by the sight of 
 Jezreel and the remains of that King’s palace. How memory piled on memory here 
 in the neighborhood of Gilboa, the plain of Esdreelon, the valley leading down to the 
 Jordan, the river of Kishon, the outjutting promontory of Carmel and the great sea 
 beyond! Did His young soul approve, though with solemn feeling, the fate of Ahab 
 and of Jezebel? Certainly with all the purity, gentleness and grace of His later 
 life and ministry, we see that His love was not mere amiability, but that wih it was 
 arighteous wrath against sin cherished and indulged. The glory of Ahab’s palace, 
 as of Ahab’s fame, has long since faded. A miserable hamlet now full of poverty 
 and squalor, is all that is let of the splendor and power of that godless 
 king. 
 
 “How are the mighty fal'en !” 
 
HE VALLEY OF SHECHEM.~—lLeaving Samaria the Holy Family 
 would pass through beautiful valleys until they reached the entrance to the Valley 
 of Shechem—now Nablous. In all Palestine, from Dan to Beersheba, there is no 
 finer spot, as far as natural scenery is concerned, than this verdant valley, spark- 
 
 It opens westward from the plain of Mukhna. It is 
 
 about two hundred yards in width, shut in on the north and the south by the rocky 
 
 ascents of Ebal and Gerizim. As you approach from the plain the valley ascends 
 gently and is full of cornfields for a half mile. 
 through a belt of olive orchards, their gray tints contrasting with the delicate green of the 
 cornfields. Then you come upon the fruit orchards, with here and there the white dome 
 
 ling with fountains and streams. 
 
 For another half mile the road curves 
 
 of a dwelling among them, until the town is reached. Nablous (the ancient Shechem) 
 lies chiefly on the south side of the valley, running up into a bay or nook in the side of 
 Gerizim. Beyond the white town, which is on the watershed of the valley, lie gardens and 
 orchards again, with fields beyond blending their lovely tints of soft green, gray and russet 
 as they melt into the purple distance of the mountains. The view through the valley 
 from east to west is most beautiful, the domes and minarets of Nablous springing from 
 the clustering orchards of the lower valley. In the picture we look toward the south. 
 We see a mill, with olive and fig trees, in the valley, while beyond are the slopes 
 of Mt. Gerizim. ‘This is on the road from Shechem to Haifa, and near this we leave the 
 Haifa road for Nazareth. 
 
AS EL ’AIN, NABLOUS, OR NABULARS.—‘te ascent of Mt. 
 Gerezim is made in an hour, and that hour will be a memorable one to the 
 traveler. If he begins the ascent from the west corner of the town he will follow 
 the valley thence toward the south, and soon come upon the full-flowing spring 
 
 Ras el ’Ain, which sends its waters down through the gardens that lie in terraces south of 
 
 Nablous. The springs of Gerezim make the valley of Shechem the most beautiful and 
 
 fruitful of Central Palestine. Above Bas el ’Ain is a lofty plain, where the Samaritans 
 
 keep the Feast of the Passover, dwelling in tents. Seven white lambs are slaughtered, in 
 strict accord with Old Testament ritual, at a point a little nearer the summit, a ceremony 
 that few strangers have ever witnessed. Upon the summit once stood the temple of the 
 
 Samaritans, built by them for worship when the Jews, returned from captivity, would not 
 
 allow them to help rebuild the temple at Jerusalem, because they had become a mixed 
 race. Christian and Mussulman have since worshiped from the same lofty plateau, and 
 have left their ruins there, but the Samaritans point to a projecting rock as having once 
 been the site of the altar of their temple. Across the Mcunt Ebal, 
 the lofty, snow-crowned Hermon just visible beyond it. Jesus recall the 
 account he had again and of the meeting here of “all Israel,” 
 when the voice of Joshua, pronouncing ‘‘all the words ofthe law, the bl ssings 
 and the could be heard from Ebal to Gerezim? ‘Tristram many 
 other travelers have tested the acoustic properties of this open temple between 
 the Mount of Blessing and the Mount of Cursing, and under the bending dome 
 of azure. 
 
 valley is 
 Did 
 
 read again 
 
 cursings,”’ and 
 
= SSS 
 
 party would pass by Jacob’s Well and in sight of Joseph’s Tomb. Another day’s 
 
 journey would bring them to Seilfiin—the Shiloh of the Scriptures, and probably 
 
 the site of the first temple to Jehovah, the home of the Ark of the Covenant. 
 Shiloh is used also as one of the names of the Messiah, as in Genesis, 49:10, and means 
 the Savior and the tranquility of peace from Him. It is written of this place: ‘‘ But go 
 ye now unto my place in Shiloh where I set my name at the first.”"—Jeremiah, 7:12. Here 
 Eli lived, and Hannah prayed and was answered, and here Samuel served and was called 
 to the priesthood. Here the holy oil burned before the ark ‘ere the lamps of God went 
 out in the temple of the Lord,” and the ark, captured by the Philistines, came no more to 
 Shiloh. If you approach it through the Valley of Ain El Haramyeh you follow the path 
 
 © » PLE OF THE ARK, SHILOH.-— Leaving Shechem, the Nazareth 
 © 
 
 skirting the east slope till it reaches the top of the pass, where a glimpse of Mt. Hermon 
 is caught in the distance, and the green basin of El Lubbén (Lebonah of Scripture). 
 Below, at the gushing fountain of Lubbdén, you leave the direct road to Bethel to make a 
 detour to ‘Shiloh, on the side of Bethel, on the east side of the highway that goeth up 
 from Bethel to Shechem, and on the south of Lebonah.’”’—Judges, 21:19. Here is an 
 oblong hill on which has been cut a level court seventy-seven feet wide by 412 feet long. 
 The rock has been cut at the edges to join the terrace, and cisterns are found along the 
 side. May not this have been the plateau proposed as the site for the tabernacle, which, 
 according to tradition, was ‘‘a structure of low stone walls with a tent drawn over the 
 top’? At any rate, says Maj. Wilson, there is no other level spot on the ‘“Tell’’ large 
 enough to receive a tent of the dimensions of the tabernacle.” 
 
ETHEL.—In the picture we are looking toward the northeast. Here we pitched the angels. Before that time it was called Luz. The ruins of the ancient city are about 
 our lunch-tent the first day out from Jerusalem. Here the boy Jesus must have three or four acres in extent. They consist of foundations, fragments of walls, and large 
 
 thought of Jacob— heaps of stones. South of the village is the great reservoir. The author of “‘ The Land of 
 “The bed was earth, the raiséd pillow stone, Israel” said: ‘There is a strange and delightful charm in camping by the fountain of 
 Whereon poor Jacob rests his head, his bones ; Bethel which was rippling in my ear as I wrote up my journal,” 
 Heaven was his canopy, the shades of night “Who would not sleep on such a bed, 
 Were his drawn curtains to exclude the light.” With stony pillow for his head, 
 Bethel, ‘‘House of God,’’ now called Beitin, is situated about twelve miles north of If they might dream with thee, 
 Jerusalem. At the present day it is one of the most desolate looking places in Palestine. Whose glad dreaming is no seeming, 
 The name Bethel sounds like a household word. Four thousand years ago Abraham Nor whose sleeping ends in weeping, 
 
 pitched his tent upon this very 
 the bare ground with a stone for his pillow.”’ Here, in his dream, he saw the ladder and Of the bright reality.” 
 
 spot. ‘Here Jacob slept, as many an Arab sleeps now, on And whose waking is no breaking 
 
of mercy) is generally supposed to be the pool now called Berkit Israél, within 
 
 the wall of the city. It is north of the temple and close by St. Stephen’s Gate, 
 
 which is supposed to occupy tke ancient site of the sheep market. It is an immense 
 reservoir, 360 feet long, 130 feet wide and seventy-five feet deep to the rubbish which has 
 accumulated at the bottom. It now rarely contains w.ter. Whether this be the true 
 Bethesda or not we know the true site is not far distant where ‘‘an angel went down at 
 a certain season into the pool and troubled the water,” and that not far from this spot stood 
 Jesus, and said: ‘Wilt thou be made whole?” ‘Rise, take up thy bed and walk.” 
 Looking southward from this point one gets a magnificent view of that ‘‘ Holy City which 
 has now occupied a permanent position on the page of history for nearly thirty-eight long 
 
 Wier OF JERUSALEM FROM BETHESDA. ~ Bethesda (house 
 
 centuries. A high battlemented wall, in some places nearly eighty feet high, encompasses 
 the city. The red rays of the setting sun shed a halo round the Castle of Dav:d, and tips 
 with gold each “tapering minaret,” and gilds each dome of mosque and church. The 
 Mosque of Omar, the most splendid mosque in the world, encrusted with encaustic tiles of 
 gorgeous colors, and surmounted by its grace‘ul dome, the dazzling whiteness of its pave- 
 ments and fountains, and, most of all, its sacred associations, make it one of the 
 
 most interesting and charming spots on earth. The above view is taken near St. 
 Stephen’s gate. The architectural features of the scene are wholly changed since 
 the boy from Nazareth looked on Jerusalem. But the hills, the valleys and 
 
 the sky are the same. Here He walked and wondered, the simple lad from 
 Galilee. 
 
AMASCUS GATE.—tThe pilgrims from Nazareth in all probability passed 
 into Jerusalem through this gate, or through one occupying about the same posi- 
 The Damascus gate (the Bab El Amud) is by far the haudsomest and most 
 striking of the five entrances into Jerusalem. At either side, on the inside of the 
 
 gate, are very slender columns, above which is a pointed pediment bearing an inscription. 
 The Damascus Gate, with its, towers, battlements, turrets, and projecting parapets on 
 either side, and above “‘the chamber over the gate,” presents an appearance both beauti- 
 ful and imposing. According to the inscription, it was built, or at least restored, by Soli- 
 man in the year 944 of the Hegira (beginning June ro, 1537), and isa fine example of the 
 architecture of the sixteenth century. The tower of the gate commands a magnificent 
 view. On both sides of the entrance are some fine specimens of ancient work. ‘The 
 
 tion. 
 
 stones employed are evidently the fragments of ancient structures, which have attracted 
 the attention and discussion of students of Jerusalem topography. Captain Warren com- 
 menced excayations on both sides of the gate, but was not allowed by the authorities to 
 complete them. He says: ‘‘This gate is at present built of two very different styles of ma- 
 sonry, the older portion of which is probably of the same age as the portions 
 of the sanctuary wall.” The results of Warren’s 
 since they confirm {the opinion that there 
 and gateway at least as ancient as the 
 the gates there still) exist subterranean 
 terranean water course 
 mascus gate. 
 
 explorations are important 
 was at that point a city wall 
 time of Herod the Great. Under 
 chambers. The rushing of a sub- 
 is said to have been frequently heard below the Da- 
 
KY 
 ark 
 
 (oe 
 
 HE MOSQUE OF OMAR, JERUSALEM. ~—This beautiful mosque 
 has a meaning within and above its beauty that no other edifice can claim. It is 
 the shelter or inclosure of the great altar of the world. It has a post of sublime 
 interest, and cne always asks oneself, ‘‘ What will be the next great event in its 
 
 history Away back in the childhocd of the world Abraham climbed these heights, yet 
 
 untouched by man, and laid his son, Isaac, there for an offering to the Lord, who had 
 claimed it. After the trial was over it became the ‘‘ Mount of the Lord,” and the Messiah 
 was then promised. Later the great plague that fell upon Israel was stayed at this spot— 
 
 “the threshing floor of Ornan, or Araunah’’—and here David saw the great angel stand 
 
 between the heaven and the earth, having a drawn sword in his hand stretched out over 
 
 Jerusalem, And another altar was built by David, upon which the Lord sent holy fire. A 
 
 few years later Solomon laid the foundation of the Lord’s house around the rock altar, and 
 the great altar of the temple was built above the sacred spot. After the glory of the 
 temple had passed a church was built by the Crusaders here, and then Caliph Ab El 
 Melek (twelve hundred years ago) built a mosque upon the spot and left the naked top 
 of the holy mountain bare, as devout Mussulmen believe that Mohammed ascended 
 from it. This rock, fifty-six feet long by forty-two feet wide, is 
 surrounded by a richly wrought railing, and is directly under a noble dome. The 
 gorgeous surroundings of tiles, wrought marble, mosaics and jewels like glass, is only 
 the setting of that wonderful stone, the hoary brow of Mount Moriah, where it breaks 
 through the tessilated pavement. Here Jesus and Mary stood on that first paschal visit 
 of the lad who was to be the Lamb of God, the Savior of man. 
 
 to heaven 
 
FIP IIL LIES 
 
 tians the Mosque of Omar is chiefly interesting because it stands upon the site of 
 Solomon’s Temple. The only three buildings of which God is recorded to have 
 given the plans are Noah’s Ark, the Tabernacle of Moses and the Temple of 
 Solomon. By far the most elaborate was the temple that stood in the age when Israel 
 ruled the world. The temple summed up and illustrated the glory of the Hebrew 
 theocracy. It emphasized the end of an era of conquest and progress, and marked the 
 beginning of national decline and sorrow. The temple was an expression in stone of the 
 conception which, in the days of the wanderings under Moses, tustled in the blue and 
 In the days when this first visit of our 
 
 Pe ta thea OF THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. —To the Jews and Chris- 
 
 purple and scarlet curtains of the tabernacle. 
 Savior was made to Jerusalem the temple had ceased to be to the Jews what it had’ been 
 
 in the time of Solomon. The day of the temple was already over; the Jews had learned 
 the lesson of the oue God, and the interests which centered in the temple were to be 
 distributed in the synagogues throughout the world. Marion Harland says of the Mosque 
 of Omar: “It is exceedingly beautiful without and within. The gorgeous environment of 
 tiles, mosaics, wrought marbles and stained glass detains us but a few minutes in our 
 hurried passage to what would be called in music and poetry the ‘motif’ of the superb 
 structure. The hoary brow of Mount Moriah breaks through the tesselated pavement 
 directly under the noble dome.’ Until recent years no Christian has been allowed 
 to enter the Mosque of Omar. ‘The earliest entrances were made at the risk of the 
 intruder’s life, but the rule is relaxed. One of the editors of this series entered the 
 Mosque in 1863. 
 
ENERAL VIEW OF “MOSQUE EL AKSA.’’— Within the sacred 
 inclosure of the ancient temple is the Mosque el Aksa. This mosque stands close 
 to the south wall and near the southwest corner of the haram, About the middle 
 of the sixth century the Emperor Justinian built a magnificent basilica in Jerusa- 
 
 Jem in honor of the Virgin. The description of the plan and site justifies us in concluding 
 
 that it was identical with the present Mosque el Aksa, It stands near the beautiful Mosque 
 
 of Omar. It is 272 feet long, 184 feet wide, covering 50,000 square feet. It has the form 
 of a basilica of seven aisles. The stones in its foundation are immense in size. They 
 were hewn from the mountains and brought from an exceeding height. The historian 
 
 says: “First they made wagons equal to the size of the rocks, and placed a single stone 
 on each, then forty oxen, chosen by the Emperor’s order for their excellence, drew the 
 stone to the destined spot. It has a Gothic porch of much later date. The arches of 
 three middle compartments are filled in with light columns, with plain capitals. The 
 interior is supported by forty-five columns, thirty-three of which are marble and twelve 
 of stone. The capitals of the columns are of great variety, some of them of heavy and bad 
 design. Some of the windows are good; one particularly attractive is of delicate blue color. 
 The interior of the dome is richly decorated with mosaics, while the exterior of the mosque 
 is mostly whitewashed and is a plain structure as compared with the Mosque of Omar. 
 
par 
 
 rears BS 
 
 OSQUE EL AKSA, WITH BASIN.—4A little north of the gothic 
 porch of the Mosque is a marble fountain called El Kas—‘‘The Cup.’’ Beneath 
 this isa very large subterranean reservoir or basin, into which it is said the 
 water from the Pools of Solomon was once conveyed. It is fifty feet deep and 
 interspersed with small islands of rock, from which arise tapering spires of rock to 
 support the ground above. Not far from this basin, within a few feet of the main entrance, 
 is the passage leading to the southern gateway of the ancient temple. The tank under 
 El Aksa holds 700,000 gallons, and Warren computes the capacity of the cisterns under 
 the Haram area, at 5,000,000 gallons. ‘These reservoirs were mostly excavated in rock. A 
 vast supply of water was needed, not only for the ordinary use of the large population of 
 
 Jerusalem, but for the great demand mare for the temple service. Forty- hree well-mouths 
 now lead to reservoirs below the Haram area. It was in strict accordance with the laws of 
 the Jews that Christ was taken to Jerusalem at this feast of the Passover, when he was 
 twelve years of age. Edershein says that when the pilgrim’s feet stood within the gates 
 of Jerusalem there could have been no difficulty in finding hospitality, however crowded 
 the city could have been on such an occasion. ‘The a1ore so when we remember the 
 extreme simplicity of Hastern manners and wants, and the abundance of gifts which 
 the sacrifices of the seasons would supply. The first visit to Jerusalem coming from 
 the retirement of the Galilean village must have made a profound impression upon the 
 mind of any child. 
 
© ANORAMA OF JERUSALEM.— Between Jerusalem and the Mount of 
 Olives on the east, is the deep valley of Kedron or Jehosaphat. In this and in 
 
 the next two pictures we are to look at the city from the Mount of Olives, begin- 
 
 ning toward the south and moving northward. Let us begin with our westward 
 
 look. ‘To the extreme left is a cluster of buildings with a minaret and small dome. This 
 is the Tomb of David on Mount Zion. A little to the north of it is the Zion Gate. Below 
 and to the left of the Tomb of David is the deep valley of Hinnom, which we shall see again. 
 Looking northward we see near to us, within the temple inclosure, a group of buildings, the 
 
 chief one having along roof andsmalldome. This isthe Mosque ’E1 Aksa. Coming eastward 
 
 toward our point of view, near the bottom of the valley, you see the Pillar of Absalom. The 
 road passing it toward the east leads toward Bethany. On the hillside and near the wall 
 of the city is the Moslem burying place. Far away to the west, at the extreme right of the 
 picture, rises the square tower of David, near the Jaffa Gate. The flat roofs, the many 
 domes, the dark green trees, the blue sky, make a charming panorama. No city in the 
 world can boast of such a wonderful history as Jerusalem. She is lifted up on mountains, 
 while mountains are round about her; she is rockbound and undergirded with rock. 
 
 —123— 
 
church, and near it is the hospital for poor Jews. 
 
 ANORAMA OF JERUSALEM.—We now move further northward on 
 the Mount of Olives and again look across the Valley of Kedron upon the Holy 
 City. At our feet are the swelling domes and towers and crosses of the new 
 Russian church on the Mount of Olives. We see more tombs stretching along the 
 
 eastern wall of the city to the extreme left. We gaze upon the Mosque of Omar, which 
 
 stands within this inclosure of thirty-five acres. Here once stood the Jewish Temple. 
 
 Far to the west, and little to the right of the dome of the Mosque of Omar, is the English 
 
 A little to the right is the dome of the 
 
 Church of the Holy Sepulch?e, which is said by tradition to mark the place of the cruci- 
 
 ) 
 
 fixion and resurrection. The other large buildings, still further to the right, are hospitals, 
 monasteries and other sacred quarters occupied by religious orders. Immediately before 
 us, at the center of the picture, is a two-arched gateway, now closed up. This is the 
 celebrated Golden Gate, concerning which there are many traditions and prophecies. 
 A little to the right, within the Golden Gate and across the grassy temple area, are 
 several arches. This is the residence of the Pacha of Jerusalem, and to the right 
 of his residence, at the extreme north end of the temple inclosure, is the Pool of 
 
 Bethesda. We shall later on see more in detail the various places of interest within 
 the city. 
 
 Seyi 
 
©) ANORAMA OF JERUSALEM.— We have moved still further north on 
 the Mount of Olives, and now our eyes take in that part of Jerusalem which 
 extends from the limits of the temple area to the northern wall. Near the center 
 
 of the picture is the eastern gate of the city, popularly known as St. Stephen’s 
 
 Gate, from which reach out two or three paths, long trodden, white and dusty, contrast- 
 ing finely with the trees, and in the early spring with the green grass on slope and terrace. 
 Below us, to the right, beyond the little wall, is the Church of the Virgin, and 
 immediately below us, to the left, the Garden of Gethsemane, of which we shall be able to 
 say and see more later on. Tombs still sprinkle the landscape, for here both Jew and 
 
 Moslem love to lie when death has claimed them, having a hope always abiding that 
 some time there shall be a reward of some kind — resurrection, power, a glorious vision — 
 because of their proximity in death to the Holy Citv. Nineveh, Babylon and Rome— 
 cities that represent and were in themselves great empires—have not had a tithe of the 
 power over human thought and affection as has this mountain town of Judea. Jerusalem 
 
 has never had since the days of Solomon any commercial importance. Its only trade 
 has been in the symbols and objects of affection ; in crosses of thorn made of olive wood ; 
 in paper weights with the Jerusalem stamp upon them; in carving in mother of pearl of 
 the Savior’s face, and in photographs connected with the life of Jesus. 
 
 —125— . 
 
EEROTH.—tThe seven days of the Feast of the Passover have gone by. Joseph 
 
 and Mary have moved on with the Nazareth crowd toward their home in the North. 
 
 “The child Jesus tarried behind in Jerusalem.”? An ecclesiastical tradition makes 
 Beeroth the place where Joseph and Mary missed the lad, ‘The claims in favor of 
 
 this town are that it is a day’s journey, as pilgrims used to travel, from Jerusalem, and 
 that this was the place where on the first evening the various members of the family 
 would find each other. Beeroth (E1-Bireh) is one of the four cities of the Gibeonites. 
 El-Bireh means “abundance of water.” It lies in a poor district, but a little below it to 
 the southwest is a spring. The remains of several ancient reservoirs mark the spot. In 
 
 the north of the village is a tower, partly constructed of ancient materials; and on the 
 highest ground are found ruins of an ancient Christian church, built by the Knights Tem- 
 
 plar, who held Beeroth during the reign of the Latin’ kings. It is said that 
 at Beeroth Jotham concealed himself for fear of Abime, his brother. In Ezra 
 
 and Nehemiah it is stated that some of the inhabitants of Beeroth re- 
 turned with Ezra from the captivity. Hackett says that at Beeroth “several 
 females were washing heaps of clothes in the little stream that issued from the 
 spring. They all wore the occipital ornaments—the string of coins which is so com- 
 mon there.” 
 
 —126— 
 
NOUNT OF OLIVES.—With anxiety Mary and Joseph return to Jerusalem 
 from Beeroth in quest of the missing boy. They would pass the tomb of the 
 kings, through the upper edge of the Valley of Jehosaphat, and would enter the 
 city again perhaps through the Damascus Gate. While we leave them in their 
 sacred search let us, from our point of view on the hills of Jerusalem, look eastward and 
 see the Mount of Olives, always conspicuous from every part of the environs of Jerusalem. 
 ‘There are three ways of ascending the Mount of Olives. At the bottom of the picture to 
 the left we see the main road coming down from the St. Stephen’s Gate, behind us, into the 
 heart of the valley. Immediately before us, with its dark and tapering trees, is the Garden 
 of Gethsemane. ‘To the left a road goes up the Mount of Olives. This is thought by some 
 
 to be the way that David passed when fleeing from his rebel son Absalom. Then we 
 see the middle road, which, in the picture, turns to the southeast and ascends the 
 mount to the left of the new Greek church with its towers of swelling domes. This 
 road passes to Bethany, over the summit of the hill. Another road, passing this 
 side of the Garden of Gethsemane, at the bottom of the picture, is the carriage road 
 which leads to Bethany. ‘The Mount of Olives, now called Jebul et-Ttir, is, in a 
 sense, “before”? Jerusalem. It is before one’s eyes from almost every part of the 
 city. It is still made more conspicuous by the olive groves which clothe its sides. 
 “No name in Scripture calls up associations at once so sacred and so pleasing as that 
 of Olivet.” 
 
 SIS 
 
Sa Cae ea 
 
 poe 
 
 over the wide expansion of the Valley of Jehosaphat, northeast of the city. Wheu 
 Joseph and Mary failed to find the boy in the camp at Beeroth, on their return to 
 Jerusalem they would come down the Damascus road, across the upper edge of this 
 valley. The beginning of the famous Valley of Kedron is about a mile and a quarter 
 northwest of the Damascus Gate. From a slight depression the valley gradually deepens 
 as it extends to the south. As it passes St. Stephen’s Gate it is one hundred feet lower 
 than the bottom of the walls of Jerusalem, and is about four hundred feet broad. Below 
 the southeast corner of the wall of Jerusalem it unites with the Hinnom and Tyropceon 
 valleys and goes down toward the Jordan. Descending into the valley from the Mount of 
 
 Proce OF JEHOSAPHAT.—We now look westward and northwestward 
 
 Olives we pass the graves of a great many Jews, and just below the walls of Jerusalem, on 
 the western slope of the valley, are the tombs of the Mohammedans. ‘There is a belief 
 that the final judgment is to take place here, based on the passage in the prophecy of Joel: 
 “I will also gather all nations, and will bring them down into the Valley of Jehosaphat. 
 Let the heathen be wakened and come up to the Valley of Jehosaphat, for there will I sit 
 to judge all the heathen round about.”” We can well imagine that the agitated heart of 
 Mary thought little of the surrounding scenery, and of the sacred associations, or the 
 relations of the landscape with its valley and mountains to the voice of prophecy. Her 
 heart, full of the hidden things, was nigh unto breaking with anxiety for the boy she 
 loved and for whom every minute she lived. 
 
 —128— 
 
a ena IS 
 
 6 oO OSQUE OF OMAR AND JEWISH QUARTER.— “And it came 
 to pass that after three days they found Him in the temple sitting in the midst 
 of the doctors, both hearing them and asking them questions. And all that 
 heard Him were astonished at His understanding and answers. And when they 
 
 saw Him they were amazed : and His mother said unto Him, Son, why hast Thou thus dealt 
 with us? Behold, Thy father and I have sought Thee sorrowing. And He said unto them, 
 How is it that ye sought me? Wist ye not that I must be about My Father’s business? 
 And they understood not the saying which He spake unto them.” It is supposed that our 
 Savior was upon this occasion in one of the schools connected with the temple, which in all 
 probability stood where we now see the Mosque of Omar. The doctors with whom He con- 
 
 versed were astonished at His understanding and answers. The beautiful pictures by 
 Holeman Hunt and by Hoffman of ‘‘ The Boy in the Temple” are fine studies in ancient 
 Jewish life and in the personal character and charms of the Boy of Nazareth. Far lovelier 
 than all the landscapes of Palestine at their best was the face of that Nazarene Boy. It is 
 impossible for us to understand the blending of the human and of the divine in His 
 nature, He was a marvel of wisdom and grace. As we look upon the old walls and 
 the splendid remains of Jewish, Christian and Moslem architecture, the fair face of the 
 Boy with its wonderful expression of divine life and love becomes the central and all- 
 illuminating feature of the scene. What He was gives value to all that is in the City of 
 Jerusalem to-day. 
 
 —129~" 
 
@)UINS OF SHILOH.—Having found Jesus with the doctors they at once 
 returned with Him to Nazareth. It is said ‘(and He went down with them and 
 came to Nazareth and was subject unto them; but his mother kept all these 
 sayings in her heart.” Leaving the city one would pass by the hill Scopus; by 
 
 Nob, where the whole family of the high priest was sacrificed by Saul; by Ramah, where 
 Samuel was born and buried; by Beeroth, where they would perhaps again camp for the 
 night, and by Bethel, a picture which we have already seen, coming at length to Shiloh, 
 where for three hundred years the Jewish Ark and ‘Tabernacle remained. Here Abijah, 
 the prophet, lived, and hither came the wife of Jeroboam to consult him. Nothing is left 
 at Shiloh now but the scattered remeins of shapeless ruins. We were at Shiloh on the 
 
 There are but two 
 Evidently they were 
 The building farthest north is called El Kiisr (the Castle). It is 
 
 morning of May 3rd, 1894. We are now looking toward the west. 
 buildings remaining on this ancient site and these are half ruined. 
 Christian churches. 
 
 thirty-nine by thirty-six feet in area and twelve feet in height. The walls are four feet in 
 thickness. Near it is a noble oak held in superstitious reverence by the natives, who 
 
 hang votive gifts in the branches to propitiate ‘‘the inhabitants” of the tree. About 
 fifty rods south of the El Kfisr is another building—the “Mosque of the Forty.” This 
 peculiar building has a buttress on the north side ten feet thick at the base, sloping 
 upward to the top. ‘‘ Utterly destroyed is the place of the Ark of God, the home of Eli and 
 Samuel.’’— Tristram. 
 
 —130— 
 
COPYRIGHT 18942) 
 
 OMB OF JOSEPH, NABLOUS.— The pilgrims from Jerusalem having 
 
 left Shiloh would in about ten miles’ further travel reach Joseph’s Tomb, a mile and 
 
 a half to the south of Nablous. This is supposed to be on ‘the parcel of ground 
 
 purchased by Jacob,” and is an object of great veneration. It stands at the eastern 
 entrance to the valley between Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal. Jews, Samaritans, 
 Christians and Mohammedans agree on the identity of this sacred place. ‘The low-domed 
 mosque gleams white against the mountain back ground. The tomb itself is about six feet 
 long and four feet high, covered with ordinary plaster, which has been whitewashed, as are 
 all the Moslem graves of the country. Within the entrance to the inclosure is the vine 
 “whose branches run over the wall,” recording the words of Jacob when he blessed Joseph. 
 
 Hebrew, Arabic and Samaritan inscriptions are on the wall. It is really the tomb that 
 should mark the resting place of the bones of Joseph, the Hebrew prince of Egypt and the 
 savior of his people. For more than sixty years his mummy traveled with the tribes of 
 Israel, after his four hundred years’ entombment in Egypt, and it must have beeu a relief to 
 the people when he was at last buried for all time in the little inheritance in Canaan that 
 “Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor for one hundred pieces of silver.” Near by is 
 the ‘wandering field of Joseph,’ where, after days of fruitless search for his 
 brother, he met a certain man of Shechem who had heard his brother say, 
 “Tet us go to Dothan.” He had wandered fifty miles to be rejected of his 
 brethren. 
 
 —13I— 
 
= ay 
 
 REM BAIN 
 
 ABLOUS.—Passing between Gerizim and Ebal, Mary, Joseph and Jesus soon 
 came to Shechem. Before us is a fine picture of the city, one of the most thrifty 
 and well-kept of Eastern towns, with a population at the present day of about 
 20,000, of which 160 are Samaritans, 600 are Christians, 200 are Jews and the rest 
 
 Mohammedans — bigoted and fanatical. ‘The principal structures of the city are the 
 mosques. ‘The largest stands at the union of two streets, and has a Gothic gateway painted 
 with red, white and blue. It was once a Christian church, but is now called ‘‘The Great 
 Mosque.” ‘There is also a Samaritan synagogue, not very well kept, but with its dome 
 and skylight and the sacred recess where the ancient manuscripts are preserved. The 
 Samaritans, like the Indians of America, are gradually dying out. Conder says that 
 
 “ancient Shechem stood very nearly on the same site occupied by the large stone town of 
 Nablous, with its well-watered gorge, full of gardens of mulberry and walnut, with vine- 
 yards and olive groves, above which rise the barren slopes of Ebal on the north 
 and Gerizim on the south.’ Although almost every traveler visits the Samaritan 
 synagogue at Nablous, it is difficult to become acquainted with this proud and reserved 
 people. And there are very few people living who have seen the oldest of the 
 manuscripts of the Pentateuch—a treasure in their possession. It is perhaps the 
 oldest copy of the Bible in the world, and until it has been read by a compe- 
 tent scholar it is impossible to say what light it may throw upon the 
 Pentateuch. 
 
 =732— 
 
MPHITHEATER OF HEROD, SAMARIA.—Passing beyond She- 
 (© chem the Holy Family, after going seven miles, would reach ancient Samaria. Here 
 isa spot of rare beauty. The perfection of hill and valley, with fine outlines 
 against the sky, and all the wealth which abundant streams could furnish to a 
 susceptible soil, Roberts, in his Journal, says: ‘‘It is difficult to conceive any place 
 surpassing this in the beauty of its position or any spot more commanding in situation 
 than that of the ancient capital of Samaria, standing, as it does, in the most fertile por- 
 tion of Palestine and enriched by the wealth and taste of the most superb of all its goy- 
 ernors, Herod. I never was more delighted when, slowly winding round the brow 
 of the hill, it first burst upon my path in a wealth of glory and sunshine.’ Here 
 
 Herod established a splendid amphitheater. Stanley says: ‘The long colonnade of the 
 broken pillars of Herod’s city still lines the topmost terrace of the hill.’ Below the sum- 
 mit, in a sort of level basin, there are many columns in the form of a square, which are sup, 
 posed to have been the foundation of a theater in the time of Herod. ‘The picture above 
 was taken at such a long distance from these columns that, as we look at them, they seem 
 like small posts in the ground, but they are really two feet in diameter and about sixteen feet 
 inheight. Here it was that Omri bought of Shemer, for the great sum of two talents of sil- 
 ver, this mountain, Shamron, and here ‘“‘he builton the mountain and called the name of 
 the city which he built Shamron (or Samaria), after the name of Shemer, owner of the 
 mountain.’’—I. Kings, 16-24. 
 
 —133— 
 
s 
 
 AMILY TRAVELING IN GALILEE. — As we made our way through 
 Galilee, in the month of May, 1894, we met onthe road a family as you see in 
 the picture. A box is strapped on each side of the mule; a woman holding an 
 umbrella is in one box and two bright-faced little children are in the other. The 
 
 husband rides sidewise upon a donkey, holding to the mule by a line made up of chain and 
 rope. This family probably belongs to the higher classes among the peasantry of the 
 country. One of our editors, passing through this region in 1887, saw another family 
 riding southward with camel and horses, the woman riding aloft and swa 
 side on their ‘‘ship of the desert.’’ It was in the days of Christ that families journeyed in 
 this way from one end of the land to the other. The traveler approaching Tiberias from 
 
 ing from side to 
 
 Se: 
 as 
 
 | 
 | 
 CORR /BP4, BF RLM BAL | 
 
 the south rides three hours with Hermon before him, sparkling through its mantle of mist, 
 before he gets a glimpse of the Sea of Galilee. Did the lad approaching the end of His 
 journey look out on this glorious view: The Sea of Galilee to His right, the Mount 
 Hermon before Him, and this side of it the quiet Nazareth, where He was doomed 
 to spend eighteen years of preparation for the great work which He was to accomplish? 
 By the shore and on the bosom of that blue sea He was to teach and work His 
 wonders; on Tabor yonder, or more probably on the glorious Hermon itself, He is to 
 be transfigured; over these hills and through these valleys He is to tread a 
 minister of mercy and of healing—the Son of Man, the Son of God, the Savior of 
 the world. 
 
 —134— 
 
ARCOPHAGUS DRINKING TROUGH, NEAR NAZARETH. 
 
 —In a little village near Nazareth is a fountain with an ancient sarcopha- 
 
 gus, now used as a drinking trough. The boy on the donkey in the picture 
 
 was very much embarrassed as he saw our artist taking aim at him with his cam- 
 This village is so near Nazareth that no doubt the Boy of Nazareth often visited it 
 during those strangely silent years of His life. Many of the sarcophagi we find in various 
 parts of Palestine are supposed to date from the time of the Romans. ‘They are the re- 
 mains of a wealthy age. If, as Josephus says, there were in Galilee alone in the time of 
 Christ two hundred and forty towns, each one containing as many as fifteen thousand inhab- 
 itants, this region must have swarmed with a population greater than is now to be found 
 
 eta. 
 
 in the whole of Palestine. One can form little idea of the Palestine of Christ’s day by 
 judging it from the Palestine of the present. ‘The boy lived near the highway of travel 
 between the east and the west. This sarcophagus drinking trough belongs to a civilization 
 rich in art and resources. The sculpture on these ancient sarcophagi of Palestine are 
 often fine. A writer says: ‘On one is a cherub with wings expanded, as if about to fly 
 away to the ‘better land’; upon another is a branch of palm, emblem of immortality; oth- 
 ers have military figures, coffins, possibly of ancient heroes. Some of these sarcophagi 
 are without any inscription, having no mark by which one may determine their age and 
 origin; nothing to indicate that those who made them had even an alphabet, while others 
 tell their own story.’’ 
 
 —=135— 
 
MEY RE BAIN. 
 
 REEK CHURCH, NAZARETH.—Just above St. Mary’s Well, and built 
 over the very spring from which comes the water that flows through a pipe into 
 it, is the Greek church called the Church of the Annunciation. It is a plain 
 stone structure with a square tower. We found no one present to give us permis- 
 
 -sion to take a photograph, but by inquiry learned that the sexton or janitor lived there. 
 
 We found him. He opened the door and gave us permission to photograph the inside. 
 
 “This church was built about the end of the last century. It stands half underground. The 
 
 fountain which sends its water into the church is also known as ‘Jesus’ Spring,’”’ and also 
 
 Gabriel’s Spring. It isin fact the only spring which the town possessed. It is almost 
 
 certain that the Child Jesus and His mother were among its regular frequenters. A little 
 west of the church is the Greek Orthodox Bishop’s palace and the boys’ school. The 
 spring and the church are good places to catch glimpses of the women of Nazareth, for do 
 they not go with the greatest fidelity to the place of prayer and to the flowing fountains 
 to bear away their treasurers of grace and refreshing to the people who need them. The 
 women in Narareth do not veil their faces as do the Mohammedan women, but have some- 
 thing of the intelligence and kindness characteristic of the Christian people of the Western 
 nations. They are very attentive to tourists, answering their questions, pointing out places 
 of interest, and are not given to beseeching tourists for daksheesh, 
 
 ~136— 
 
on the 5th of May, one thousand eight hundred and ninety-four, we found our tents 
 pitched just above the Greek church and near the Virgin’s Fountain. We had 
 camped the night before at Jenin, on the southern edge of the plain of Hsdrelon, 
 After breaking camp in the morning the muleteer, cook and waiter pass ahead of the 
 dragoman and tourists to have tents and dinner ready on the arrival of the tourists them- 
 selves, ~In the afternoon, on this occasion, as we approach Nazareth, from a high hill 
 overlooking the city we see the American flag flying in the breeze over our tent on the 
 edge of the little Galilean town. There is a vast difference in the methods fof travel 
 which modern tourists enjoy to-day and the methods in vogue at the beginning of our era. 
 
 Doni shot OF OUR TENT AT NAZARETH.— Reaching Nazareth 
 
 ‘Travelers now ride on English saddles and on excellent horses, sleeping at night in car- 
 peted tents most comfortably furnished, In our party there were but two of us, the writ- 
 er and the artist, and so amply were we equipped that our caravan in motion looked like 
 a little regiment passing over the hills. This picture represents the interior of our tent. 
 ‘The figures you observe are bits of different and brilliantly colored calico sewed to the 
 cat of the tent, giving a picturesque appearance to the interior, serving as the paper 
 does to the modern dwelling. When the tents are once pitched inthe Syrian village 
 the natives of the place gather at the front of it to watch the newcomers, and to sell such 
 relics as they have found or such mechanical wooden and stone devices as they have man- 
 ufactured. 
 
rR? 
 
 = 
 
 AZARETH FROM THE LATIN MOUNT.—Here is a charming 
 picture, probably the most beautiful to be gained from any point of observation 
 It is a restful place, thoroughly in keeping with the silent years 
 
 about Nazareth. 
 
 of our Lord’s life. There is not much stir. There is no bustle or noise. The 
 people walk about quietly. The mountains which encircle the town, rising toward the 
 heavens, are in themselves restful to the eye, and the whole town seems friendly to a life 
 of meditation. It is as different and distinct from other towns of the same size in 
 Palestine as though it belonged t» a different country. There is more of devotion in the 
 churches, more of dignity and taste in the bearing of the people. The beautiful, tender 
 and sympathetic life of our Lord seems to have been shared by the people of the place. 
 
 As we looked down upon this lovely town from the Latin Mount in the early morning 
 of the 7th of May, 1894, the air was soft, the sky clear and deep, and the very olive groves 
 and vineyards, the distinct mountain outlines, the bending heaven and the charming atmos- 
 phere seem to suggest to us the life and ministry of the Christ we honor. A little to the 
 left in the picture we see our tent. The people standing about it seem like toys. ‘The 
 building inclosed by the square wall is the Greek church, and a little below it to the 
 right we see Mary’s Well, the water of which flows from underneath this Greek church. 
 Fair Nazareth! Home of the sweet mother and lovlier Child; of the growing Boy and 
 dawning manhood ; of the bold Prophet and mighty wonder worker ; of the holy sacrifice, 
 the mighty Savior of humanity ! 
 
the days of John—‘‘the Voice’’ in the wilderness proclaiming repentance and 
 the coming kingdom. 
 inade his appearance. 
 
 Cae OF ST. JOHN IN THE DESERT.— We have now come to 
 
 It was in the summer of A. D. 26 that this late Elijah 
 «And the same John had his raiment of camel’s hair, and 
 a leathern girdle about his loins; and his meat was locusts and wild honey. Then went 
 out to him Jerusalem, and all Judea, and all the region round about the Jordan, and were 
 baptized by him in the Jordan, confessing their sins.’’ From the Jordan, where John appeared 
 preaching and baptizing, over to Ain Karim, a little south of west, was possibly twenty 
 
 miles. We have already seen the site of Ain Karim in its lovely valley among the Judean 
 Mountains. It was at this place that Elizabeth and Zacharias lived and John was born. 
 
 Several centuries ago, in the reign of Louis XIV. of France, Marquise de Nointel, his 
 Embassador, built a Latin monastery, in connection with which was a church dedicated to 
 St. John the Baptist. We are in this picture permitted to look on the ruins of this old 
 church. Here is a blending of ruggedness and of beauty—the old rocks, the delicate 
 leaves and flowers, fresh and green in the early springtime. For centuries here lived and 
 loved and worshiped and died the monks and priests who chose an unworldly life among 
 these Judean hills. They walked over these pavements and passed through these arches. 
 These walls rang again and again with their chants and songs, their matins and vespers. 
 A rugged place was this, with touches of beauty. A rugged man was John, with charms of 
 character which always belong to lives fully consecrated to God. 
 
 —139— 
 
Karim and the Jordan lay the Pools of Solomon. ‘They were very old even in the 
 days of John the Baptist. To the right of 
 the picture, near the top, is a castle of Saracenic origin; to the west of this castle 
 is a small chamber built over a spring called Ain-Salah, which supplies the pools with 
 water. The first pool below the castle is 380 feet long and 25 feet deep, with a breadth 
 on the west end of 229 feet and on the east end of 236 feet. About 50 yards below the 
 first pool is the second, the top of which is a little lower than the bottom of the first. This 
 pool is 423 feet long, 39 deep, and at the west end 229 feet wide, and at the east end 
 236 feet wide. The lowest pool is 248 feet from the middle pool, and its length is 582 feet. 
 
 Ce VIEW OF THE POOLS OF SOLOMON. Between Ain 
 
 The view here presented is very fine. 
 
 It is 50 feet deep, its breath on the west end is 148 feet and on the east end 207 feet. 
 The pools are all widest at the lower end. Water from the surrounding springs are con- 
 ducted into these pools through subterranean channels, with channels also for the 
 collection and conveyance of rain water. There is an aqueduct from the lower pool, 
 winding along the hill side, conveying water to Bethlehem, which is four miles away, and 
 to Mount Moriah, immediately under the temple. ‘This is a cheerful country, and birds 
 sing in the green coppices of oak on either side, and flocks may be seen going to the pools 
 for water. The whole economy of this work of the wisest of kings is most interesting, 
 showing that the object was to provide as full and as evenly distributed a supply of water 
 as possible for the uses of the temple. 
 
 =o 
 
HE LOWER POOL OF SOLOMON. The above view of the lowest and 
 
 most extensive of the Pools of Solomon gives one an idea of the masonry used in 
 
 the structure of this remarkable reservoir. Our artist stood upon a hill to the 
 
 north of this pool, You may see in the picture our horses and dragoman down in 
 the valley, and the few people at the further corner of the pool look like Liliputians, To 
 the south beyond we see one of the Judean hills. If this reservoir were full it would float 
 one of the largest of ocean steamers. In the narrow valley a short distance below the 
 pools is the little village of Urtas, with ancient ruins, which is supposed to be the Etham 
 where Josephus says were the Gardens of Solomon. There are gardens and fountains there 
 
 at this day, and itis very probable that upon those fertile slopes running down to the green 
 cup of the hills lay the vineyards, orchards and pleasure grounds of Solomon; and he, 
 walking through his great plantations here, may have communed with his own spirit and 
 arrived at the solution of the problem that ‘‘all is vanity and vexation of spirit.’’ Perhaps 
 here after the cares of state he ‘“‘ went down into the garden of nuts to see the green plants 
 of the valley; to see whether the rose budded and the pomegranates were in flower.’ 
 Near by on the summit of her hill, ‘‘clothed with the olive, vine and figs,’ sits ‘‘ the little 
 town of Bethlehem,’? where in a low khan was born ‘‘a greater than Solomon,’’? who 
 “opened a fountain in the house of David for sin and uncleaness.” 
 
 Shes 
 
COPYRIGHT 1899 BY REMBALI 
 
 \LACE WHERE CHRIST WAS BAPTIZED.—There has been 
 J much speculation concerning the exact spot of the baptism of Jesus by John. It 
 was either at the Ford of Jordan, “right against Jericho,’’ where Israel crossed 
 dry-shod, or, as Dr, Thomson holds, as far up the Jordan as the Ford of Damiah — 
 the nearest point, if Jesus ‘‘came from Nazareth of Galilee”? by vale and brook, that leads 
 from SAlem to the river (‘‘ and John was baptized in Enon, near to Salem”). The bathing 
 place of the Latin pilgrims is nearly due east from Jericho in Judea, and beyond the ruined 
 convent of St. John. It is this part of the Jordan we see in the picture. It is ‘over 
 against Jericho” and about four miles above the place where the Jordan empties into the 
 
 Dead Sea. John had been baptizing in the River Jordan perhaps about six months, when, 
 in the winter of A. D. 27, according to the harmony of Dr. Andrews, Jesus left Nazareth 
 and came to the River Jordan and was baptized, This was a remarkable period of the 
 world’s history. The fullness of time had come. The world was ready for the new king- 
 dom and forthe King. * * * * Inthe spring of 1894 the Jordan was swollen with the 
 winter rains and in many places was out of its banks. The birds were singing in the 
 fringe of the forest which lines either bank of the river and the reeds and trees were in full 
 bloom. How sacred is the place where He was baptized who came to open a ministry of 
 power under which men are to be “‘ baptized with the Holy Ghost and with fire!” 
 
 Sue 
 
HURCH AT GILGAL,—In the above view we have a picture of a church 
 
 © built in Jericho by the Greek Christians. There is nothing of special interest on 
 the plains between the Judean Mountains and the River Jordan. Were it not for 
 
 the historic memories of Abraham, of Joshua and of Jesus, pilgrimages would not 
 bemade. ‘The place is about twenty miles from Jerusalem. 
 descent of thirty-eight hundred feet over a rocky road. ‘he historic associations make the 
 region rich in suggestions, One thinks here of Joshua, the Israelites crossing the Jordan, 
 the encampment in Giigal, the keeping of the Passover, the man whom Joshua saw standing 
 over against him with sword drawn in his hand, the conquest of Jericho; and here one 
 
 In reaching it one makes a 
 
 | 
 | 
 
 recalls Elisha and Elijah. Indeed, one goes back to the days of Abraham and Lot, as he 
 looks out on this now deserted landscape. It is doubtful whether the name Gilgal was 
 applied at first to a city or to an open place for encampment. If one walks from Riha in a 
 southeasterly direction he will, in about twenty minutes, reach some foundations of 
 hewn stone and a low mound covered with ruins. These are supposed to be the remains of 
 convents which formerly stood in the plain. Ruins fill the plain to-day, but the everlasting 
 hills are the same, the morning and the evening, the day time and the harvest ; and always 
 the swelling flood of the Jordan rushes between its narrow banks or flows upon the fields of 
 its broad valley until they “stand dressed in living green.” 
 
 ig 
 
-\LAIN OF SQDOM AND GOMORRAH.-—In1 the picture we are looking 
 
 The 
 Mountains of Moab rise in the distance from beyond the River Jordan, The 
 
 picture was taken from ancient Jericho, just underneath the Mount of Temptation. 
 We see in the distance to the left the village of modern Jericho. From the point where 
 we now stand to the top of the Moab Mountains is about twenty miles. The real Nebo 
 can not be distinguished in the picture, but our dragoman points out the “traditional 
 Nebo.” From the place where we stand we are looking upon the plain that Mark Antony 
 gave to Cleopatra and that she rented to Herod. ‘The whole country was once irrigated by 
 
 Josephus 
 
 waters from the Judean Mountains and was the most fertile tract in Judea. 
 called it ‘‘a divine region.”” Here Cleopatra had her gardens ; here were vast plantations 
 It is to the extreme left of the picture 
 This is the region 
 over which Lot looked and was tempted by its luxuriance and wealth to settle in it. 
 This is the region over which Moses looked when he viewed the promised land from 
 
 of balsam trees and palm; it is now but a desert. 
 that the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah are supposed to have stood. 
 
 the heights of Nebo. This is the region that Jesus saw when tempted to accept the gift of 
 the world on condition that he would simply bow before Satan, the god of this world, and 
 worship him. 
 
 tee 
 
ete. 
 
 ge ce ae # 
 i : 
 
 NCIENT JERICHO.—There is nothing left of the ancient Jericho but a few 
 mounds and ruined aqueducts, which we see in the above picture. Josephus says 
 that ‘‘palm trees here grow to an unusal size, the gardens produce honey 
 sam, henna and myroballanum.”’ 
 
 and bal- 
 Of these rich products not one remains. It is 
 said that Cleopatra transferred the balsam trees to the gardens of Heliopolis in Egypt. In 
 the distance we again see the Moab Mountains. At the base of these mountains at the be- 
 ginning of the level plain flows the River Jordan. ‘This region was at one time considered 
 the garden of Palestine. In the time of the Crusades it is said that kings cultivated plan- 
 tations of sugar cane in the plains of Jericho. 
 
 In the ancient city at present no people 
 
 live. Near by is the fonntain of Elisha, the Mount of the Temptation. Quarantania 
 rises loftily above the plain at this point. In 1863 the writer rode to the summit of the 
 mound, where he gained a charming view of this plain of the Jordan, on which the eyes of 
 Lot looked from near Bethel to the west, when he coveted it because of its fertility and 
 beauty. This old Jericho is the place to which Joshua referred when it is said, “Now 
 Jericho was straightly shut up because of the children of Israel; none went out and none 
 came in. And the Lord said unto Joshua, see, I have given into thy hand Jericho and the 
 King thereof and the mighty men of valor, and ye shall compass the city all ye men of 
 valor and go round about the city once. ‘Thus shalt thou do six days.” 
 
 wig 
 
DOPYRIGHT [892 2Y REM BAIN 
 
 Jerusalem to Jericho the road narrows almost to a bridal path. ‘“‘So rough and 
 straight is it,” says Marion Harlan, “that I insisted upon alighting and walking 
 round a sharp spur where the track is a narrow ledge overhanging a precipice.”’ 
 The silence is said to be oppressive to the spirit and to the ear. Upon the heights above 
 are seen winding paths, slight threads, apparently, leading to the black mouths of caves. 
 Here the hermits dwelt in their cells ages ago. On the north bank of this wild gorge—this 
 Judean glen—we see a Greek monastery. There are the little paths by which the monks as- 
 cended and descended to this, their mountain home. These monks spend their time in prayer 
 and in the cultivation of little patches of flowers in the bottom of the valley. In the picture 
 
 © = MONASTERY AT THE BROOK CHERITH.—1: traveling from 
 
 we look toward the north and can form a very accurate idea of the depth and darkness of 
 the Glen Kerith—Wady Kelt—“‘one of the most sublime ravines in Palestine.’ The found- 
 ers of the monastery on the mountain’s side believed it to be the site, or near the site, of 
 Elijah’s hiding place during the miraculous drouth that occurred in Ahab’s reign, and 
 where he was fed by ravens while the famine raged in Palestine. In this region 
 Christ wandered when the Spirit into the wilderness after 
 the opening heavens, the descending dove and the Father’s voice. Here he was 
 with the wild beas' here he fasted forty days and forty nights; here he re- 
 sisted the temptations of the adversary by the sword of the Spirit, which is the 
 Word of God. 
 
 He was driven by 
 
 —146— 
 
+ 
 AMBAL  F 
 
 EWISH WAILING PLACE.—After the temptation in the wilderness of 
 Judea, “‘the devil taketh Him up into the Holy City, and sitteth Him on a pinnacle 
 
 @) of the temple, and saith unto Him, If Thou be the Son of God cast thyself down, 
 for it is written, He shall give His angels charge concerning Thee, and in their 
 
 hands they shall bear Thee up lest at any time Thou dash Thy foot against the stone. Je- 
 
 sus saith unto Him, It is written again: Thou shalt not tempt the Lord, thy God.” ‘The 
 pinnacles have fallen, the temple has been destroyed; almost every mark of the old Jew- 
 ish occupancy of this sacred site has been removed, but against the southwestern wall of 
 the temple area a paved space is given to the Jews, where they may pray and read from 
 their prophets and wail out their woe under the very shadow of the area on which once 
 stood the pride of this nation, the temple of God. On Friday afternoon, March 13, 1863, 
 
 the writer visited this sacred spot. Here he found between one and two hundred Jews of 
 both sexes and of all ages, standing or sitting, and bowing as they read, chanted and re- 
 cited, moving themselves backward and forward, the tears rolling down many a face ; they 
 
 kissed the walls and wrote sentences in Hebrew upon them. One of the words most fre- 
 
 quently written is the simple word, as translated in English, ‘Hoping.’ The 
 lamentation which is most commonly used is from Psalm 79: ‘*O God, the 
 heathen ure come into ‘Thy inheritance; Thy holy temple have they defiled; 
 they have laid Jerusalem on heaps. We are become a reproach to our 
 neighbors, a scorn and derision to them that are round about us. How 
 long, Lord? Wilt Thou be angry forever? Shall Thy jealousy burn like 
 fire?” 
 
 =a 
 
-\XTERIOR OF THE TOWER OF DAVID.—We are now in this 
 picture looking toward the northe: The tower before us is south of the Jaffa 
 
 Gate and is identified with the Tower of Hippicus by the discovery of an aqueduct 
 
 twelve feet below the present conduit. Col. Wilson, of the ‘‘Palestine Exploration 
 Society,” says: “The Tower of Dayid appears to be the oldest portion of the citadel, and 
 its dimensions and mode of construction agree well with those of the Tower of Phaselus 
 as described by Josephus. The superstructure consists of a solid masonry escarp rising 
 from the bottom of a ditch at an angle of about forty-five degrees, with a pathway round 
 the top above this. The tower rises in a solid mass for a height of twenty-nine feet and 
 
 then comes the superstructure. The escarp retains to some extent its original appearance, 
 but time and hard treatment have worn away much of the finer work and the repairs have 
 been executed in the usually slovenly manner of the Turks.” ‘The old work of the tower 
 is certainly very ancient. The superstructure contains several rooms. In one of them, 
 according to a tradition, David composed the Psalms. Another room is pointed out as 
 the King’s reception room. The Tower of David was the last place to yield when Jerusalem 
 was captured by the Crusaders, and when the city walls were ¢ stroyed by the Moslems in 
 the thirteenth century it was, for some reason, probably its solidity, spared to come down 
 to our own times as a fine specimen of the mural masonary of the Jews. 
 
 Si 
 
LEM.—tThe modern natives of Jerusalem caused the artist much annoyance when eleventh century by the Georgians, but on account of the enormous taxes levied 
 
 6 & ARMENIAN CHURCH AND CONVENT IN JERUSA- embracing church and convent, stands upon Mount Zion. It was founded in the 
 
 he attempted to take this, his second, photographic view in the City of Jerusalem upon it by the Turkish Government they were compelled to seil it. In this 
 4n March, 1894 The men wanted to walk directly in front of the lens soasto per- way it came into the hands of the Armenians in the fifteenth century. The 
 mit the photographer to get a life-size view of themselves, whereas the artist was extreme- church is dedicated to St, James, and a tradition of no great value makes it 
 
 ly anxious to get a good picture of the Armenian convent and church. In the above view stand on the spot where the Apostle James was martyred. ‘The chair of St. James 
 we are looking toward the east. The Armenians separated themselves from the Catholic is pointed out, and adjoining the church is a chapel said to stand upon the enor 
 Church in 491 on account of the decision of the Council of Chalcedon, which pronounced the house of the high priest Annas. Another place is pointed out as the spot where 
 their monophysite doctrine heretical. Members belonging to the Armenian Church our Lord was confined. The Armenian Patriarch lives here. His authority extends 
 are scattered throughout the Turkish dominions, The building which we now face, over Palestine and Cyprus. 
 
 wie 
 
OUNTAIN OF THE APOSTLES.—0n the morning of April 25, 1894, 
 
 the writer and his company rose early and prepared for the journey to Jericho and 
 
 the Dead Sea. Passing Bethany, about two miles east ofJ erusalem, we rode down 
 
 the steep hill into the valley. Two miles beyond Bethany, at the bottom of this 
 valley, by the roadside, is the fountain popularly called ‘‘The Fountain of the Apostles,” 
 but the real name is ‘‘The Sunny Spring.” The Arabs call it Ain ’Haud, and sometimes 
 Ain ’Shems. This is supposed to be the Enshemesh, one of the border marks which point 
 out the boundary line between the tribes of Judah and Benjamin. Near to the fountain is 
 akhan, Being Easter Week of the Greek Church, we found a great number of people at this 
 fountain. ‘The situation of a khan usually remains the same for countless generations 
 
 when it is in the vicinity of a spring of living water.’ There is a tradition that Christ, 
 our Lord, on His last journey to Jerusalem rested here awhile, telling His disciples that He 
 was going up to Jerusalein to be betrayed and crucified. At this fountain we were furnished 
 a guard by the sheik, whose headquarters are in the low stone structure you see just*beside 
 the road to the left of the picture. This sheik levies tribute upon all who pass over this 
 way to Jericho. Our dragoman told us that Thomas Cook & Son pay five dollars to this 
 sheik as a license for every party conducted through this territory. Itis pretended that there 
 are robbers between this point and Jericho, in this wilderness of Judea, and that travelers 
 are not safe unless they havea guard. ‘The truth probably is that this isa species of black- 
 mail levied by this old robber in order to replenish the treasury of himself and family. 
 
 So 
 
TREAM FROM UNDER MOUNT OF TEMPTATION.—0On 
 
 the west of Jericho rise the rugged cliffs of Quarantania, which since the twelfth 
 
 century has been shown as the Mount of our Lord’s Temptation. Its great cliffs 
 
 frown above a green oasis, where the Sultan’s Spring, called by Christi 
 “Blisha’s Spring,’ rises and spreads verdure as far as the site of ancient Jericho, which 
 once depended upon it for water, Standing upon this height we can see the plain of Jordan 
 below us, the road taken by Joshua and the army of Israel when they advanced into the 
 interior of Canaan, the road passed by Samuel on his way to Gibeah of Benjamin, and 
 possibly the path on which Elijah and Elisha descended together for the last time. For 
 
 many centuries devout persons of many nations have come here for days or years of fasting 
 until the face of the mountain is honey-combed with cells and caves. Even now a few 
 Abyssinian Christians keep Lent here each spring. Canon Tristram, who, with his party, 
 by the aid of Bedouin guides, explored these cliffs, says: ‘‘On the eastern face of the moun- 
 tain are thirty or forty habitable caves or chapels and probably a much larger number on the 
 south face, in the gorge of the kelt.””. Dr. Thomson at an earlier date found that they were 
 inhabited by Bedouin robbers, and no one could venture near them. This is really a city of her- 
 mits. Itis claimed that from this mountain Abraham and Lot descended to the fair plain of 
 Jordan. In our picture we see the stream that flows from underneath the Mount of Temptation. 
 
 —i5I— 
 
RSHTED (B24 BY RE BMH. 
 
 LISHA’S FOUNTAIN.-—Ain es-Sulian, Elisha’s Spring, by which Jericho 
 was once supplied with wat-r, still exists and wells forth copiously from the earth. 
 It flows into a pond or reservoir. The temperature is eighty degrees Fahrenheit. 
 Near it stand two mills in a state of dilapidation. ‘The fountain is shaded by a 
 
 large fig tree. Enough water flows from this spring to irrigate the whole plain of Judea. 
 
 This is supposed to be Elisha’s Spring, referred to in II. Kings, chapter ii, 19-22—the 
 
 waters which Elisha healed. The land around the spring now belongs to the Sultan of 
 
 Turkey. His agents had the land sown in wheat in this neighborhood, which was ripe 
 
 when we passed throngh it in April. Between this fountain and the modern Jericho the 
 
 Russians have secured three or four acres of land, where they have a convent and a school, 
 ate the soil with the water from Elisha’s Spring, and the wealth of vegetation 
 
 ises gives us some idea of what the land was in the days when it was 
 all cultivated and watered. The remains of a paved Roman road haye been found in the 
 vicinity. The site of the house of Rahab was shown as being a short distance above the 
 spring, and it is supposed that the ancient town must have stood at this spot. Certainly 
 there was opened here at the baptism and fasting and temptation and triumph of 
 Jesus a fountain for the healing of the nations. His fierce struggle was like the 
 smiting of a rock. 
 
 —152—— 
 
HE DEAD SEA.—tThe Arabs call this Bahr Lut, the Sea of Lot. 
 
 It is the most 
 remarkable inland sea in the werld. It is situated in the lowest part of the valley 
 which extends from the base of Hermon to the Gulf of Akabah. ‘The Hebrews call 
 it the Salt Sea. The Greeks at an early period called it the Dead Sea. It is forty- 
 seven miles in length and its greatest width is nine anda half miles. Its mean depth is 
 1080 feet, its level below the level of the Mediterranean is 1293 feet. ‘The water contains 
 from twenty-four to twenty-<ix per cent of solid substances, seven per cent of which is 
 chloride of sodium (common salt). The salt of the Dead Sea has from the earliest times 
 been collected and brought to the Jerusalem markets and is considered particularly strong. 
 
 @) 
 
 To the Government alone belongs all the sult and bitumen brought into and sold in Syria. 
 During the last of April, when the writer and the artist were here, the weather was so hot 
 that it was necessary for us to leave our hotel in Jericho in time to ride to the sea and to 
 the Jordan and back again by ten o’clock in the morning. Dr. H. M. Field writes: “My 
 first impression of the Dead Sea was one of surprise at its beauty. Its very name seemed 
 to be equivalent to the sea of death. Instead of the black waters of death we looked 
 down upon a deep blue expanse that had all the beauty of the Scotch or Swiss lakes.’ 
 Its one unique feature is its extreme depression on the earth’s surface, for it is the lowest 
 body of water on the earth. 
 
and are objects of peculiar interest to the travelers. ‘‘Their object in living seems 
 
 ” 
 
 Clg VILLAGE, JERICHO.—The Bedouins are wandering tribes 
 to be to rob other tribes and to fight injured parties afterwards.’’ They are, never- 
 theless, polite and hospitable. However crowded the prem 
 
 friend, stranger or even foe, has the best place in the tent and the choicest portion of food, 
 
 and the host would protect him at the risk of his life against insult or attack were the 
 assailant of his own tribe and kindred. A more wretched and degenerate-looking lot 
 of natives we saw nowhere than at Jericho. In the village of which we give a picture 
 the houses are built to the height of seven or eight feet of stone and then covered with 
 thorny ac A row of these houses is shown, with their apartments separated 
 
 s, the guest, be he 
 
 acia trees. 
 
 by stone walls. They have no doors. During the day these natives roam over the desert 
 upon their horses or mind their flocks of sheep and goats upon the plain. Near the 
 village we see above is the Jordan Hotel, kept by a foreigner and supplied with the com- 
 forts of a modern hotel from Jerusalem. It is customary for large bands of these natives 
 to gather about the front of the hotel in the evening, v tere they sing and dance with the 
 hope of securing daksheesh from the tourists. ‘These natives are about the only class of 
 people who are able to live in this region during the summer. ‘The hotels in Jericho are 
 closed from the last of April to October. A foreigner enters this region in the summer time 
 at the risk of his life. It is said that the air here in the month of July is like the breath of 
 a furnace. 
 
 —154— 
 
ANA OF GALILEE.W—Jesus returned to John at Bethabara after His forty 
 days in the wildernes On the banks of the Jordan He called His first disciples. 
 They went with Him to Nazareth and thence to Cana of Galilee, to the famous 
 marriage where He turned water into wine. The artist and his party were here 
 
 on the morning of May 8, 1894. It was at half-past eight o'clock. The village is about 
 
 five miles from Nazareth. In the distance we see the dome of the Greek Church, a build- 
 ing said to cover the site of the house where the marriage feast was celebrated. It is said 
 to contain as a relic one of the water pots in which the wine was made. Near the church are 
 the ruins of a house said to be the place in which Christ rested. Nathaniel lived in Cana. 
 The Prophet Jonah is said to have been born near Cana and his tomb is pointed out near 
 
 i 
 
 COPYRIGHT (89% BY RE MANIC © 
 
 the village. The location is fine, commanding an extensive view over the plain and the 
 picturesque hills about Nazareth. Innumerable millions in the happy bridal hours have 
 had their thoughts and hearts directed to Cana of Galilee. The proudest city on 
 earth might envy her lot. Nineveh and Babylon might be forgotten, but not Cana 
 of Galilee. Here was wrought His first miracle. With a definite and symbolical 
 purpose did He manifest His glory “and His disciples believed on Him.’ An 
 
 obscure village, an ordinary wedding, a humble home, a few faithful peasants 
 —a word of power, a miraculous transformation, a symbol and _ prophecy 
 of His transforming grace, The place is lovely, but more lovely its 
 suggestions. 
 
 Sg 
 
marriage in Cana of Galilee He, with members of His family and with His dis- 
 It was 
 
 Wes OF THE SYNAGOGUE AT CAPERNAUM.—After the 
 
 ciples, went down to Capernaum. Here He lived after leaving Nazareth. J 
 
 an important center of travel on the highway between Rome and Greece in the 
 West, and Damascus and the Euphrates in the East. There was a custom house at Caper- 
 naum and Matthew was a collector of customs. It had a garrison also, because a centurion, 
 a Roman officer of rank, lived here. The best authority regards ‘ell Hum as the site of 
 Capernaum. The view we see is of large stones which are said to have been part of the 
 synagogue which stood in this city. A new monastery has just been erected here. The 
 place is thickly set in briars and weeds, and it is with difficulty that we manage to get our 
 
 horses through the fields down to the place of the ruins. In 1887 the writer sailed from 
 Tiberias to Tell Hum when the sun was near its setting. We remained fora time at this place 
 of ruins. Lizards crawled over prostrate columns ; we see a few wild flowers, bits of green 
 moss clinging to the stones and tall stalks of oleander, with buds ready to blossom. A dead 
 silence reigns over the broad plain that stretches out toward the Jordan where it enters 
 the north end of Genezareth. The sun goes to his setting. And this is all we could 
 recall of the visit to that Capernaum over which in its days of prosperity our King 
 and Master cried, ‘‘Woe unto thee, Capernaum!”? The archzeologists say that the ruins at 
 Capernaum indicate work “more massive and in a higher style” than at any place in 
 Galilee where such ruins appear. 
 
 —156— 
 
at Capernaum with His mother and His disciples Jesus went up to Jerusalem. We 
 
 have no record that our Savior ever entered Tiberias, but He must have been in 
 
 this city many times. It is one of the most sacred cities of the Jews in Palestine, 
 and now has a population of about six thousand souls. Four thousand of them are Jews, 
 three hundred are Christians and the rest Moslems. The view above is very charming. 
 Our artist remarked upon reaching the city that it was the most picturesque place he had 
 ever seen. Here are little boats in the lake, the nets of the fishermen hanging out to dry, 
 iand the palm trees. The people appear to be extremely poor. It was with diffi- 
 culty that we secured permission to take photographs. When the Governor of the town 
 found out our mission he permitted us to carry out our purpose, conditioning his per- 
 
 © « RIAS, ON THE SEA OF GALILEE.—Atter remaining a few days 
 
 the cac 
 
 mission on our promise to send him a picture of everything 
 
 that we secured in 
 the place. 
 
 Tiberias is the only remaining town on the shores of the sea. It is inclosed 
 by crumbling fortifications. It was founded by Herod Antipater, and was once a splendid 
 city and center of Jewish learning. Byron might have been on this spot when he penned 
 these lines : 
 
 “And the sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea, 
 When the blue wave rolls nightly on deep Galilee.” 
 Dr. Porter says : ‘‘I sat in my tent door and looked long and eagerly on one of the most 
 interesting panoramas in the world. ‘There was nothing to disturb me, no din of human 
 
 life, no sign of human toil or struggle. The silence was profound. Far into the night I 
 sat by the silent shore.” 
 
 —157— 
 
VeyVOSQUE OF OMAR AND TURKISH QUARTER, JERUSA- 
 1 LEM .—We now go with Jesus through the valleys and over the hills, fiom the 
 Sea of Galilee to the Holy City on her throne among the Judean mountains. 
 When Christ came the Jewish Temple stood, as we have said before, where now 
 the Mosque of Omar rises with its beautiful dome against the blue sky of Syria. It is the 
 most prominent and striking building in Jerusalem, and from every point of view we catch 
 the fine outline of the dome. Here the feet of Christ often trod the courts of the temple. 
 Toward its towers He looked with mingled love and sorrow. To His sensitive soul here 
 came memories of a long and eventful history in which His own human ancestors figured, 
 and in which His Holy Father, God himself, had expressed in sundry ways and divers 
 
 manners His will, His wrath, His grace. 
 Jews’ Passover it is 
 
 Upon this particular visit of our Lord to the 
 said that He ‘found in the temple those that sold oxen and sheep, and 
 doves, and the changers of money sitting; and when He had made a s 
 He drove them all out of the temple, and the sheep and the oxer 
 changers’ money, and overthrew the tables; and said unto them that sold doves: ‘ Take 
 these things hence; make not My Father’s house an house of merchandise.’ It is at 
 this time that our Lord had His wonderful interview with Nicodemus, and set forth before 
 the learned and distinguished Jew the mysteries of the inner kingdom and the higher life 
 which He came to make known; the new life, the birth from above, the life of heaven in 
 the hearts of men. 
 
 courge of small cords, 
 ; and poured out the 
 
ZION GATE.—To the southwest of the Mosque of Omar, a short distance 
 G@) beyond the Armenian Monastery and the Church of St. James, is the Zion Gate, or 
 the Gate of the Prophet David, which was built in the walls when they were recon- 
 
 HE 
 
 structed by Suliman, or Soliman, between 1539 and 1542, A.D. We have herea 
 very beautiful picture of the Zion Gate. It was the first picture secured by our artist upon 
 reaching Jerusalem, April 24, 1894. We are now looking toward the north. Coming 
 through this gate: we pass to the Tomb of David, and near here found many beggars, victims 
 to that terrible disease, the leprosy. The gate has a massive door, with two wings mounted 
 with iron. From the top of the battlements one can see the Moab hills beyond the River 
 
 Jordan. The Zion Gate is perfectly plain, and has apparently no importance except to 
 afford an outlet to that part of Mount Zion. Beyond the wall of the city there formerly 
 stood a row of hovels called the Village of the Lepers, but a hospital has since been pro- 
 vided for these unfortunate creatures outside the Jaffa Gate, near the Upper Pool of Gihon. 
 As we look on this bit of stone work, the Gateway of Zion, we recall the inspired things 
 that were written in the Jewish Scriptures and in the hymns of the Church touching Zion— 
 the Zion of David, the Zion of prophecy, the Zion of the Christian faith, the dim shadow of 
 the glorious Mount Zion above, where God’s saints shall go in and out, rejoicing in the 
 grace that delivers the soul from sin and exalts it to fellowship with God, 
 
 —159— 
 
“Oh, Absalom, my son, my son, 
 Oh, Absalom, my son, 
 Where is thy dazzling beauty now, 
 Thy charms by song untold, 
 Those locks like sunbeams in the air, 
 Shining like rays of gold ?” 
 In the Valley of the Kedron, in a deep and narrow glen, among other picturesque sepul- 
 chral mounds, stands the Tomb (or Pillar) of Absalom. It is a cube hewn out of the solid 
 rock. Each side measures twenty-two feet. The west front is the best preserved. Over 
 the columns is the Doric frieze, and over this an Egyptian cornice. The total height above 
 
 ©. OF ABSALOM.— 
 
 the present surface of the ground is fifty-four feet. ‘The style of architecture shows at 
 once that this can not be the pillar Absalom had reared for himself during his lifetime in 
 the King’s Dale.” It is difficult to determine the exact date of the monument. The name 
 of Absalom was not attached to it before the twelfth century. The strange mingling of 
 Egyptian and Greek styles would not be inconsistent with the age of the Herods. The 
 heaps of stone around it bear testimony to the habit of the Jews, who cast stones at the 
 monument as they pass, to show their hatred of the very name of Absalom. A wayward 
 man was Absalom, with varied gifts, among them personal beauty, but without filial affec- 
 tion, without principle, without faith in the eternal righteousness. He received his just 
 
 deserts, and was also the instrument of divine justice to remind David of his own evil 
 deeds. 
 
 —160— 
 
Nicodemus, Jesus, with His newly selected disciples, made a pilgrimage from Jeru- 
 salem to the Jordan. 
 itinerant school of theology in which the plain but naturally gifted men were stu- 
 
 © * FORD OF THE RIVER JORDAN.—After the conversation with 
 © 
 
 These were days of preparation, the beginning of that great 
 
 dents and Jesus, the great Teacher, ‘who spake as never man spake,’’ was Master. What 
 a school of theology it was! Over them the dome of heaven; in the fresh air'they walked 
 day by day, hearing the songs of the birds, looking into the faces of the people and talk- 
 ing with them, witnessing deeds of mercy and of power, and listening to the quickening, 
 broadening and strengthening words which their Divine Leader proclaimed. In 1894, on 
 the morning of the 26th of April, our artist secured the fine picture of the Jordan. We are 
 
 looking down the river. The mountains in the distance are the Judean Mountains. Al- 
 though we stand on the western bank, we are able, because of the bend in the river at this 
 point, to get very much the same view that we should command from the eastern bank. 
 The weather was exceedingly warm, although it was only April. A large number of pil- 
 grims just below the ford, having come down from Jerusalem to celebrate the Greek Eas- 
 ter, were bathing in this sacredriver. How finely in the picture above the river sweeps 
 around the curve! How beautifully the trees and shrubbery on its banks are reflected in 
 its clear waters! Beyond are fields and forests and ruins and the great mountains toward 
 the west. Among these mountains are Jerusalem and Bethlehem and Bethel and Bethany, and 
 beyond them the plains of Sharon and the great sea reaching out toward the Western world. 
 
 —161— 
 
(©) QUEDUCT AT GILGAL.—Before reaching the modern village of Jericho, 
 
 on the way to the Jordan, we see this beautiful acqueduct, one of the most hand- 
 
 some specimens of stone work that we found in Palestine. It is intended to convey 
 
 the water from Elisha’s Fountain into Jericho, and is a striking contrast to the 
 miserable villages near it and the desolate plain around it. It looks to us like a bit of work 
 belonging to the Western world in the midst of a de caying and degraded civilization. Not 
 far from here the tabernacle was set up. Near here Saul was made King, and near this 
 place also the tribe of Judah came together to welcome David from exile.—II. Kings, 
 4:38-41. In the fields and plains about this aqueduct one went out to gather the 
 herbs to seethe the pottage for the son of the prophets, when he found a wild vine and 
 
 gathered wild gourds from it to mix with the pottage. Near this place Elijah and Blisha 
 passed on the way from Jericho to Jordan. Lieutenant Conder describes ‘no less than five 
 acqueducts that follow the course of Wady Kelt, some of them irrigating the land south of 
 it, while others carry the water north far and wide over the plain.’ ‘The aqueduct suggests 
 the original wealth and beauty of the land which was once watered by these springs at the 
 foot of the Judean hills, therefore Jericho was in those days known as ‘the city of palm 
 trees,” but, save a single survivor, there are palms no longer. During the time of the 
 Crusaders there were plantations of sugar cane here that brought large revenue to the 
 
 Knights of Jerusalem, and the ruins of the vaults and acqueducts that supplied water for 
 irrigation are still seen. 
 
 =e 
 
Leorninen il 1924: 8h 
 
 ACOB’S WELL.—Going northw: 
 
 rd to Judea of Galilee Jesus “‘must needs go 
 through Samaria.’’ On this journey He came to Sychar, near to the parcel of ground 
 that Jacob gave to his son, Joseph, where Jacob’s Well is still found. 
 upon undisputed ground. 
 the identity of which is beyond all question. 
 of the editors reached this place about three o’clock in the afternoon. 
 
 Here we are 
 According to Dean Stanley it is, perhaps, the only place 
 On the 3rd of May, 1894, the artist and one 
 Wecame, doubtless, 
 over the very road on horseback that our Savior traveled with His disciples in December, 
 A.D. 27. Here the writer read the fourth chapter of St. John’s Gospel. Here the conver- 
 sation took place between Jesus and the woman of Samaria. We could look to Mount 
 Gerizim on our left and remember the temple to which the woman pointed when she said : 
 
 “Our fathers worshipped in this mountain.’’ Jacob’s Well now belongs to the Greek 
 Church. The keeper of the church wanted us to write our names in a book and make a 
 contribution to the building of a new church over the well. We told him that we did not 
 think a church ought to be built there at all. He seemed to think that this was a cheap 
 argument to avoid giving him money. ‘The well is now seventy-five feet deep and seven 
 feet six inches in breadth. ‘The diameter of the opening is seventeen and a half feet. A 
 ruined vault stands above the well twenty feet long, ten feet broad and six feet high. The 
 pieces of broken marble you see in the front belong to some ancient church. It was here 
 by this lonely well that Jesus told to a woman and to all the world the story of the true 
 relationship between God and man. 
 
 —163— 
 
WOMAN OF SAMARIA.—As our artist was taking pictures in Shechem 
 
 a woman and a little boy appeared upon the scene, and showed much anxiety to 
 
 know exactly what we were about. We were standing upon the hill overlooking 
 
 Shechem, with the slopes of Gerizim rising to the east. The artist, having taken 
 a picture of the city, quietly turned his camera upon the tripod, and took a photograph of 
 this woman before she knew what he was doing. We concluded that it was a member of 
 the sect of the Samaritans from the fact that she had no veil over her face. One of the 
 things that strikes tourists in Palestine is the naive and unsophisticated manners of the 
 natives. Wherever we stopped they gathered about us, and it was sometimes very difficult 
 to keep them from standing directly in front of the lens. They wanted to discover the 
 
 meaning of it all. 
 
 : One can not help being saddened at the sight of so much ignorance 
 and deg 
 
 adation among the natives of the land of our Lord. How different would have 
 been their condition had they received and continued to act upon the instructions which 
 Christ gave them. - The soil of the land is sufficiently fertile and the climate sufficiently 
 friendly to produce abundant harvests for the sustenance of man and beast. The desola- 
 tion and degradation of Palestine are attributable simply to the fact that her people have 
 forgotten the moral and_ spiritual teaching of the Lord who lived and taught 
 them. There is still among these natives the same work to do—the 
 work of reproof and conviction, instruction and salvation which Christ performed when 
 He was here. 
 
 among 
 
 =o — 
 
C8PYRIGHT 
 
 "8 06 Ais g 
 
 yaa =e 
 
 YCHAR.—tThe city to which the disciples went to buy meat while Jesus remained 
 at the well was fora long time supposed to be Shechem, but now the weight of 
 authority is in favor of Sychar. Leaving Jacob’s Well, passing by Joseph’s Tomb, 
 and then crossing a number of small irrigating streamlets, we come to Sychar, per- 
 
 haps less than one mile from Jacob’s Well. It is a wretched-looking place. The houses 
 are built of stone and covered with brushes and earth. Doubtless in the time of our Savior 
 it was a prosperous and thrifty town. We see Mount Ebal sloping upward toward the 
 west, and in the picture we are looking directly toward the north. The pile of dried 
 switches on a house top are used for fuel. While it is sometimes cold in this region, we 
 understood that the natives use no fire except for cooking purposes. After the night is 
 
 over they get out into the air and warm themselves in the sun. ‘The present name of 
 Sychar is Askar. Near it is the village of Bellata, with its fine spring and gardens. 
 ’Askar, at the base of Ebal, is like most of the sites in this neglected land, a little picture of 
 life and death —a spring of living water and a ruin or a tomb for the dead. This village of 
 Samaria, like the city of that name, may remind the visitor of the prophecy of Micah; “I 
 will make Samaria as an heap in the field, and as plantings of a vineyard; and I will pour 
 down the stones thereof into the valley, and will discover the foundations thereof.’? One 
 can easily reproduce the picture of a woman of Samaria coming down the open plain 
 to Jacob’s Well, thirsty in body and thirsty in soul, and she found what was indeed 
 to her a well of life. 
 
 65 
 
———— SS = fee news 
 
 OUNT GERIZIM.—Here ri a noble mountain. We look at it from the 
 north. It is near the opening of the valley between Ebal and Gerizim. Gerizim 
 is a grim and barren mountain without herbage or flowers, but how interesting 
 are the historic associations which bloom upon it. As Jerusalem was the center 
 
 of Jewish national life and religion, Mount Gerizim was the center of the life and religion 
 
 of the Samaritans, who supposed that there could be no other place where worship would 
 be acceptable to God. ‘They really made an idol of the mountain. It was standi g in sight 
 of this mount that our Savior uttered the sublime words which taught that worship is not 
 
 a question of place, but of spirit. The woman said, “Our fathers worshiped in this 
 
 alem is the place where men ought to worship.” Jesus 
 
 mountain ; and ye say that Jeru 
 
 saith unto her, ‘“Woman, believe Me, the hour cometh when ye shall neither in this moun- 
 tain, nor yet at Jerusalem, worship the Fathe a 
 when the true worshipers shall worship the F 
 seeketh such to worship Him. God is a spirit ; and they that worship Him must worship 
 Him in spirit and in truth.” ‘This conversation was reported by the woman of Samaria, 
 and the whole town turned out and “besought Him that He would tarry with them; and 
 He abode there two days.’ One of the editors of this volume climbed, in 1863, to the top 
 of Gerizim, from which a fine view is given of the plain el-Mukhna. He gathered some of 
 the ashes of the recent Samaritan pascal lamb which had been offered after the old Jewish 
 custom still observed by the Samaritans. 
 
 The hour cometh, and now xe}, 
 ther in spirit and in truth; for the Father 
 
 —166— 
 
HURCH OF ST. JOHN, SAMARIA. —‘‘Now, after two days, He 
 departed thence and went into Galilee.” Leaving Sychar He would pass up the 
 valley between Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal, passing Shechem. About one 
 mile beyond Shechem He would leave the valley and turn northward across the 
 
 slopes of Ebal toward Galilee. After journeying from Shechem about seven miles, He 
 
 would come again to the City of Samaria. We have here a picture of the Church of St. 
 
 John in Samaria, appropriate here, not simply because it is directly on the road from 
 
 Shechem to Galilee, but because our Savior had just left the Jordan, where His disciples 
 
 baptized and had the controversy with the disciples of John. This church overhangs the 
 
 steep declivity below the village of Samaria, called also in ancient times Sebaste, and now 
 
 known as Sebustiyeh. ‘The windows of the church are high and narrow, with pointed 
 arches and ornaments peculiar to the early Normans, the blocks carved with grotesque 
 heads and figures. Popular tradition attributes the building of this church to the Empress 
 Helena, but others think that it was erected by the Knights of St. John. The church has 
 been converted into a mosque. St. Jerome is the first author who mentions the tradition that 
 John the Baptist was buried here. The roof is gone, but the walls remain entire to a con- 
 siderable height and the eastern end is almost perfect. ‘he altar niche is a segment of a 
 circle occupying a great part of the entire end, and is richly ornamented. ‘The walls 
 now inclose an open court, in the center of which rises a modern dome over the so-called 
 Tomb of John the Baptist, which is to be seen in the next picture. : 
 
 —167— 
 
> HURCH OF ST. JOHN, SAMARIA.—Here is another view of the 
 
 Church of St. John, taken from the interior of an open court inside. We see here 
 
 the domed tomb of John the Baptist, referred to in our notes on the former pic- 
 
 ture. When we were there on the 4th day of May, 1894, Moslems were tearing it 
 down in order to build here a mosque. You can see in the above picture some beautiful 
 specimens of the work which entered into the construction of this church. We were, per- 
 haps, among the very last tourists who will be permitted to look upon it, and nothing will 
 be left of the ancient building that once stood in the city of Samaria except the columns of 
 Herod. These also would be taken down by the natives if so much labor were not involved 
 in that work. Certainly it is high time that the European powers interfered with the van- 
 dalism of the modern Turks. An author says “ that the Church of St. John is on the 
 
 whole the most picturesque ruin in all Palestine.” ‘The church, including the porch, is 
 fifty-five yards long and twenty-five yards wide. ‘The architectural monuments of great 
 men who have made their impress on the world, although they last for centuries, are 
 ultimately destroyed, but the work and influence of the men themselves survive, 
 The words of truth which they spake are immortal Pinnacles, walls and foundation 
 stones may be removed, but the ideas of truth embodied and illustrated in heroic 
 deeds and in burning words remain to enlighten, to guide and to inspire all genera- 
 tions. When the earth itself shall perish the truth which shone, and which the 
 Lord proclaimed, and which the apostles emphasized, will abide with a bright- 
 
 ness beyond the brightness of the sun, and with the permanency of the eternal years 
 of God, 
 
 —168— 
 
HE SEA OF GALILEE.—This sea is called the Sea of Galilee because it is 
 
 © embraced in the province by that name. It is called the Sea of Tiberias because 
 S this is the largest city on its shores. It is called the Sea of Genesaret because of 
 the fertile plain which skirts its western shore. Lamartine says, when he first 
 looked down upon this lake: “I had come to look on the very shores, on the very waves 
 which had born Him, on the hills on which He had sat, on the stones on which He had 
 rested His head. He had a hundred times walked on that beach which I now trod. With 
 reverential humility His feet had trod the dust which was now under my feet. He sailed 
 in the barks of the fishermen on the Sea of Galilee. He walked on its waves, stretching 
 His hands to the apostles.”” Here lies before us the scene of so many of our Savior’s 
 miracles and teachings. In the times when Christ was here the cities were very numerous. 
 
 According to Josephus, the smallest of them contained more than fifteen thousand inhab- 
 tants. The waters of this lake were plowed by four thousand vessels of every description, 
 from the war vessel of the Romans to the rough fishing smack of Bethsaida and the gilded 
 pinnace from Herod’s palace. The Savior often crossed and recrossed this lake. 
 Here He taught the listening multitudes. Many nights He spent in tender vigil 
 on the mountain sides overlooking these Galilean waters, and it is here that He 
 called and ordained His twelve apostles. The view before us is very impressive ; 
 a strong wind has been blowing and the restless waters dash against the rocky 
 shore, washing the ruins of the old docks. Beyond are the hills resting in 
 
 soft light and above the overarching heavens, bluer than the sea and full of 
 beauty and benediction. 
 
 —S— 
 
and one of the editors passed through Cana of Galilee, and by twelve o'clock 
 reached the high hill which looks down upon the Sea of Tiberias. In the picture 
 we are looking to the east. The lake, because of its distance, appears to be a river 
 not wider than the Mississippi. It is in reality about six miles wide where we now see it. 
 Below us is the little city of Tiberias hugging the shore. The country rising beyond the 
 sea is the region of the Gaderenes, where the swine ran violently down the hill into the 
 sea. ‘The city itself, which isa mere miniature from this point of view, is now called 
 ‘Tubariyeh. Herod Antipater named it Tiberias, after the Roman Emperor. According to 
 Josephus, the building of the city began A. D. 16, and we completed A. D. 22. It was the 
 
 © stows of the ote Nazareth on the morning of the 8th of May, 1894, the artist 
 
 capital of Galilee for many years, and was the most important town on the coast in the 
 time of Christ, and the only one which has escaped the ruin of the centuries and survived 
 with its name unchanged. Cities lined the entire coast in those early days. After the de- 
 struction of Jerusalem, ‘Tiberias became the chief seat of the Jewish nation. ‘The Sanhedrim 
 
 was transferred hither, and the school of the Talmud developed i 
 Christianity, which was gaining ground. In 1837, on New Yea 
 quarter of the city wa 
 
 elf there in opposition to 
 r’s Day, the Mohammedan 
 by an earthquake. ‘The storms on the lake are now, as 
 formerly, fierce and destructive. Only one year ago a tempest swept over the lake and 
 tore from their foundations and washed into the sea thirty houses from the town of 
 Tiberias. Of its 3,700 inbabitants about two-thirds are Jews. i 
 
 =o 
 
meat 
 
 OUNTAIN AT CANA OF GALILEE.— “Then when He was come into 
 Galilee the Galileans received Him, having seen allthe things that He did at 
 Jerusalem at the feast.” It was at Cana of Galilee that He healed the son of a 
 certain nobleman who was sick at Capernaum. In the picture we see the fountain 
 
 which is, according to the tradition, the one from which the water pots were filled when 
 Christ made the wine at the marriage feast in Cana. The water here is abundant and pure, 
 and as there is no other fonntain in the immediale vicinity, the natives of the village 
 regard its claims as beyond dispute. The large sculptured stone near the fountain, to the 
 left of the picture, is a Roman sarcophagus, now used as a trough for watering cattle. A 
 
 woman of the village appears in the picture. We find them sometimes in groups, some- 
 times alone. They often bear jars upon their heads. 
 of cactus and beyond it are olive and fig trees. 
 
 Beyond the fountain we see a fence 
 The writer and the artist were at this place 
 at about half-past eight on the morning of May 8th, 1894. In the picture we are looking 
 toward the north. To many the miracles of Christ are a source of perplexity and doubt. 
 One has well said that they were the ‘‘ ordinary and inevitable works of One whose very ex- 
 istence was the highest miracle of all.’” A German poet said: ‘One would have thought 
 that the miracle of miracles was to have created the world such as it is, yet itisa far 
 greater miracle to have lived a perfectly pure life therein,” 
 
 —17I— 
 
a)UINS OF THE SYNAGOGUE AT CAPE RNAUM. —It was at 
 { 7 Capernaum that the synagogue was erected by the Roman centurion in whose 
 behalf the elders of the Jews besought Jesus, saying of him “ that he was worthy, 
 
 for he loveth our nation and he hath built us a synagogue.’? The miraculous dis- 
 
 course recorded in the sixth chapter of John was uttered “in the synagogue as He taught 
 in Capernaum.’’ Was it on the site of these shapeless ruins and formidable thickets of 
 thorn brushes and nettles that the Master uttered those wonderful words? In the picture 
 we see a confused heap of fluted stone and broken marble. Beyond we see a wheat field. 
 We are standing perhaps two hundred yards from the lake and are looking toward the 
 
 north. Turning around we should have the Sea of Galilee in full view. Sir Charles 
 
 Wilson says : led by all the pilgrims from the fourth century 
 downward as representing the celebrated city of Capernaum.’’ Col. Wilson by careful 
 measurements shows that the synagogue was seventy-four feet nine inches by fifty-six feet 
 nine inches in size, and that the walls were nearly ten feet thick. Over one lintel of the 
 old building is what appears to be the pot of manna, and on either side of it something 
 like a reed, which may possibly be Aaron’s rod. Is there something in the difficulty we 
 have in identifying these sacred sites which harmonizes with tne spiritual 
 of our Lord, who sought to break the spell of “things” and of “places” and-to call 
 our attention to the invisible and divine? Every place in Palestine seems to say to us 
 “He is not here; He is risen.” 
 
 mission 
 
 —172— 
 
HAN JUBB YUSUF. — After the healing of the nobleman’s son (accord- 
 
 ing to Dr. Andrews) Jesus spent a few weeks in retirement. It was probably 
 © not far from Capernaum that He found this place of rest. In the above picture 
 we have a view of the ruined inn of large size, about two hour’s ride from the 
 Sea of Galilee. It is said to have been the place where merchants, with their camels 
 and cattle from the region near Damascus and the east’ of the Jordan, used to meet for 
 trade. In riding from Capernaum to this place we pass over what is called the “‘ Devil’s 
 Backbone,” a collection of twisted and unshapely rocks that resemble bones. Our 
 Lord was accustomed often to withdraw Himself from the throngs who gathered about 
 
 Him, at Capernaum and on the sea shore, into some quiet region in the neighborhood 
 for meditation and prayer. Is it possible that the region we now tread was thus visited 
 by the Son of God? Our tents were pitched here, and in the quiet of the place we read 
 the history of our Lord’s labors in the region round about Lake Galilee. This khan 
 derives its name from a tradition current among old Arab geographers that the pit into 
 which Joseph was thrown was situated here, and the pit is actually shown. It is 
 an ordinary well three feet in diameter and about thirty feet deep, its sides lined 
 with masonry, and the water reached by cutting through the rock below. This is 
 a fabulous tradition. 
 
 —173— 
 
q NTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE EL-AKSA.~— After a week spent in 
 iC retirement in the neighborhood of the Lake of Galilee our Savior went up again to 
 Jerusalem to attend the Passover, which took place, according to the Harmony we 
 follow, between March 3oth and April 5th, A. D. 28. On this particular visit to 
 Jerusalem our Savior healed a man at the Pool of Bethesda. The Mosque of El-Aksa, 
 which occupies a part of the place once allotted to the temple, is different in style and 
 inferior in character to the Mosque of Omar. ‘The edifice was originally founded by the 
 Emperor Justinian about the middle of the sixth century, but has been much modified, no 
 doubt, by Moslem architects, for it has been in ruins twice in consequence of earthquakes, 
 
 and we may infer that but little of the original building now left can be considered strictly 
 The interior is supported by forty 
 and twelve of common stone. 
 
 ancient. 
 
 five columns, thirty-three of which are marble 
 Some wretched paint- 
 ings by an Italian artist were introduced when the mosque was repaired at the beginning 
 of the present century. Here, too, is a magnificent pulpit of wood, with exquisite carved 
 arabesques and raised panels, inlaid with ivory and mother of pearl. On the stone 
 behind the pulpit is shown “the footprint of Jesus.” On the eastern side of the 
 mosque is the Mosque of ‘‘ Forty Martyrs,’’ and near this is a gate leading out to the 
 “Cradle of Jesus.” 
 
 Some of the windows are very good. 
 
 —174— 
 
ss 
 
 os 
 
 : 
 
 YNAGOGUE OF CHRIST AT NAZARETH.—In the market place 
 of Nazareth the Greek Catholics, or United Greeks, have built a chapel on the site, 
 as they believe, of the original Synagogue of Nazareth which stood in the time 
 of Christ. It is mentioned in history as far back as A. D. 570, and was converted 
 
 into a church in the thirteenth century. Thus have men endeavored to perpetuate the 
 
 memory of the wonderful sermon preached by the Young Teacher in the presence of His 
 neighbors and kinsmen, after which the offended Nazarenes led Him to the brow of their 
 hill to hurl Him thence to His death. But this base deed they were not permitted to 
 accomplish. Jesus spent much time in Galilee after He heard that John was cast into 
 prison. He taught in their synagogues. We visited the Greek quarter of Nazareth and here, 
 
 ® 
 
 75 
 
 in the northern part of it, found the church already referred to. We descend by a few steps 
 from the streets and come into quite a dark room with two benches reaching along on the 
 one side. The floor is of thick stone and has the appearance of being very ancient. While 
 it is difficult to accept the tradition that our Lord really stood in this particular room, as 
 we stood looking at the cross, with the pictures on either side, we could not keep out of our 
 minds the sermon that Christ preached in Nazareth, the first sermon of His that we have 
 recorded and the only sermon which we know that He preached from a text of Scripture. 
 One would be glad to believe, while standing in this chamber, that it was really here that 
 He took the book of the Prophet Isaiah and read that marvelous text which was by Himself 
 fulfilled in the presence of the people who heard Him. 
 
REEK MOUNT OF PRECIPITATION, NAZARETH. — Atter 
 Christ delivered H rmon in the Synagogue there was much excitement. His 
 words would have excited much indignation if He had been a perfect stranger 
 among them, but it was very difficult to hear from one of theirown young country- 
 
 men and their fellow-townsman such words of severity. Had they not known Him and His 
 
 family through all these years ? How could He presume thus to address them, His neighbors 
 and seniors, and in every way, as judged by human standards, His superiors! No wonder 
 that they were “‘filled with wrath! *’ Then they led Him to “the brow of the hill whereon 
 
 their city was built that they might cast Him down headlong.’ We have already given a 
 
 view of Nazareth from the Latin Mount of Precipitation. In this picture we give a view 
 
 of the Mount of Precipitation as claimed by the Greeks. ‘This is in the southeast of the 
 the city, upon a hill looking toward the plain ot Esdreelon. As we approached this Greek 
 praying place the keeper, whom we now see standing on the porch of the church, 
 appeared with a key to admit us to the inside if we desired to enter. 
 was taken on the 7th of May, 1894, at nine o'clock in the morning. 
 toward the south. If you were standing on the other side of the church you would 
 be in sight of the plain of Esdrelon, with Mounts Tabor and Carmel. 
 built on a hill, Nazareth is built on the hill, but 
 cliffs from which they attempted to cast Him 
 town. 
 
 This picture 
 We are looking 
 
 Nazareth is 
 brow, and the 
 not below the 
 
 not on its 
 
 were above and 
 
 76 
 
see tbntentciny Seentcritn iit eeablctette Str btn DAC eI 81 
 LSPS CART TEA ON AP a LASALLE TA Ye 
 
 OSLEM OVENS, NAZARETH.—We are looking toward the north 
 and have in full view the Moslem Ovens of Nazareth, where, as our dragoman 
 told us, the Moslem population of Nazareth have their bread baked. This 
 picture was taken at half-past two o'clock on the 7th of May, 1894. You see the 
 
 structures, built of stone and covered with clay. They are about seven feet high and six 
 
 feet broad. The Moslems and the Christians in Palestine have no dealings with each 
 other socially. ‘The Moslems have schooled themselves intoa permanent feeling of dislike 
 for Christians, whether they be foreigners or natives, and they take all foreigners to he 
 
 Christians, and seem to have no use for them except as contributors of ‘‘baksheesh.” The 
 
 making and baking of bread is often referred to in the Bible, and the Hebrew word for oven 
 
 NO 
 
 is the sams as the Arabic “‘fannur.'' The manners and the customs of the people of 
 Palestine have changed but a little since the time of Christ. An authority says: *‘ The ordi- 
 nary ¢aznur or oven is merely a hole in the ground about three feet deep and two feet in 
 diameter, lined with cement and smoothly polished, It is filled with thorn brushes, dry grass 
 and weeds, or with any kind of fuel that will make a sudden and fierce blaze, and the heat 
 is kept up by throwing ina fresh supply as occasion requires.” In the cities the public 
 ovens can bake bread and meat in large quantities in any form desired by the natives or 
 foreigners. It is only a question of time when Western civilization that has grown out of 
 the Christian religion is destined to take the place of the civilization of Mohammed, and 
 then the old feeling of caste will be utterly abrogated. 
 
 177 — 
 
“ Blue as the Galilean lake, 
 
 Where the rent tower leans o’er the sunny wave 
 
 Which ripples round the ruined battlements 
 
 Of old Tiberias, and upon its bosom 
 
 Receives the shadow of those hanging palms— 
 
 The relics of a brighter, happier day.” 
 We have here the picture of the Sea of Galilee from the wall of Tiberias. With his artist, 
 one of the editors reached Tiberias at noon on the 8th of May, 1894. We passed through 
 the gate, entering the walls of the town, passing out of another gate, and found our tents 
 pitched on the slopes just above the point from which this picture was taken. We see our 
 
 ©. SEA OF GALILEE FROM THE WALL OF TIBERIAS.— 
 
 muleteers down to the left, watering our horses in the Sea of Galilee. 
 sea is nearly always rough, especially near the shore. 
 
 This little inland 
 The waves rise and fall, causing a 
 kind of delightful music. The pebbles on the shore have been worn until they are round. 
 Among these pebbles are numerous little shells which tourists greedily pick up, and which 
 haye been distributed in all parts of the world. “This is the most sacred lake in human 
 history. Most of the active ministries of our Lord were spent in sight of these waters. 
 Here He found His disciples. Here He performed His miracles and preached His wonder- 
 fulsermons. Near this lake He healed a leper by touching him. Here He called Levi, 
 whom He found sitting at the receipt of customs. Near this lake the disciples plucked 
 the ears of corn on the Sabbath. Here Christ healed the man with the withered hand, aud 
 here He ordained the twelve. 
 
 S73 
 
of people from Galilee, and from Decapolis, and from Jerusalem, and from Judea, 
 and from beyond Jordan. 
 and when He was set His disciples came to Him.” 
 “Sermon on the Mount.” 
 discourse was delivered, are about half a mile from the roadway leading from Nazareth 
 
 © ® HORNS OF HATTIN.—“And there followed Him great multitudes 
 @) 
 
 And seeing the multitude He went up into a mountain ; 
 Then followed the celebrated 
 The Horns of Hattin, supposed to be the mount where this 
 through Cana of Galilee to Tiberias. It isabout three miles from the lake. We arrived at 
 ten o’clock on the 8th of May, 1894, and turning away from the regular road pressed our 
 horses through the thick growth of prickly pears and briars, as you see them in the picture, 
 to the top of the Mount of Beatitudes. The view from the summit is a glorious one. Below 
 
 us to the east is the sea, with the Gadarene country rising beyond. ‘To the northeast is 
 Hermon, with its patches of snow. Inthe distance to the north is Safed, probably ‘the 
 city on a hill” referred to in this memorable sermon, Here was fought the famous 
 battle between Saladin and the Crusaders, July 5, 1187, after which Palestine and 
 Jerusalem fell again into the hands of the Moslems. ‘The horns or cone-like crests 
 rise against the sky with the sweeping curve of their high valley between. All 
 this depression may have been made in some remote age by the crater of 
 an active volcano, as the ‘‘Horns’”’? are masses of black basalt and the 
 
 plain is marked by its presence of broad streams once liquid, but now solid 
 rock, 
 
 =179— 
 
COPYRIGHT 1294 BY REM. 
 
 Hermon, looking northward, lies the little mud village that marks the site of the city 
 The town lies on a spur of 
 
 Pero, to OF THE CHURCH AT NAIN.—At the foot of Little 
 
 of Nain, where our Lord raised the widow’s son to life. 
 
 the mountain, fifteen hundred feet below the summit, and the road to Nazareth ascends 
 in a hollow to the west of it. After the Sermon on the Mount our Savior returned to 
 Capernaum and found there a centurion, an officer of the Roman army, whose servant he 
 healed. ‘‘And it came to pass the day after that He went into a city called Nain; and 
 many of His disciples went with Him, and much people.’”’ It was at this time that He 
 stopped the funeral procession, and said to the dead body: ‘‘ Young man! I say unto thee, 
 arise! and he that was dead sat up and began to speak, and He delivered him to his 
 
 mother.’”? Nain is at present a miserable village, but there are many ruins round about. 
 The Arabs have a mosque here with the curious name, ‘‘ The Shrine of Our Lord Jesus.’ 
 It is said to stand upon the site of an early Christian chapel. There is another small 
 church in Nain of which we give above a view. There is nothing very remarkable 
 about it, except that the walls, floors, pictures and furniture are arranged with 
 neatness and taste. Lieutenant Conder say “The procession bearing the young 
 man’s body would have come down the slope toward the little spring westward, 
 meeting our Lord on the main road. The mud hoyels on the gray tongue of lime- 
 stone have no great marks of antiquity, but the surrounding ruins show the village 
 
 to have been once longer than now.”’ 
 
 —180— 
 
HE GADARENE COUNTRY FROM THE WATCH TOWER 
 
 ‘“@) OF TIBERIAS.-— After leaving Nain and coming again into Galilee, John 
 — sent his disciples to Jesus. —Matthew, xi: 2-19. Jesus was here anointed by a 
 woman in the house of Simon. — Luke, vii: 36-50. At this time He preached in the 
 
 cities of Galilee.—Iuke, viii: 1-3. At Capernaum He healed a blind and dumb man. 
 —Matthew, x Near Capernaum Jesus is visited by His mother and brethren. 
 —Matthew, 6-50. Upon the sea of Galilee He delivered the parable of the sowers. 
 —Matthew, : 1-23; Mark, iv: 1-25; Luke, viii: 4-18. And the parable of the tares, with 
 still other parables.—Matthew, xiii: 24-25; Mark, iv: 26-34. It was at this time that He 
 stilled the tempest on the Sea of Galilee.—Matthew, viii: 23-27; Mark, iv: 35-41; Luke, 
 
 viii: 22-25. And now He went over into the country of the Gergesenes—the Gadarene country, 
 which we see from the watch tower of Tiberias in this picture above. It was there that 
 “there met Him two possessed with devils, coming out of the tombs exceeding fierce, so 
 that no man might pass by that way,”’ and He suffered the devils to go into the herd of 
 swine, and ‘behold the whole herd of swine ran violently down a steep place into the sea 
 and perished in the waters.”” The site of the city of Gadara is identified with the extensive 
 and remarkable ruins of Um Keis, which occupy a circuit of about two miles. The 
 inhabitants still dwell in tombs, while not a house or wall remains. Dr. Merrill says that 
 “‘for two or three miles beyond Gadara it was lined on both sides with costly tombs, which 
 can still be counted by hundreds.” 
 
 —181— 
 
NTRANCE TO TIBERIAS.—The above picture is very beautiful —the 
 
 heavy wall, the fine arch, the graceful palms, the sea and the mountains beyond. 
 
 This entrance is on the western wall of Tiberias. ‘Through this all travelers from 
 Nazareth pass intothe city. Like Jerusalem, “Tiberias is regarded as a holy place 
 
 by both Christian and Jew.’ Here Christ taught; here the Jews believe that the Messiah 
 will rise from the waters of the lake, land in the city and place His throne at Safed, three 
 thousand feet above the city. ‘Tiberias occupied a very high rank as a Roman city. It 
 was surrounded by a wall three miles in circumference — longer than the ancient wall of 
 London or of modern Jerusalem. Here Herod Antipater resided during our Lord’s ministry. 
 It was for this reason that Pontius Pilatus, when he heard that Christ was a Galilean, sent 
 
 Him to Herod. How earthly names and earthly fortunes change! Herod in his day was 
 famous, rich and conspicious ; Christ was unknown, poor and despised, but as we look back 
 through two thousand years, we find that the kingdom of Herod was only relieved from 
 oblivion by the fact that the obscure but holy Nazarene grew up in his country. ‘The now 
 squalid city of Tiberias, mentioned but once in the New Testament, has been the chief home 
 of Jewish learning since the destruction of Jerusalem. Once the region was full of activity. 
 It is now utterly forsaken ; but the lights and shadows at morning and evening dwell on the 
 hillsides, the ruins of massive walls, of fallen pillars, of straggling columns standing in 
 dismal solitude near the waters’ edge or half buried on the slope above, suggesting the 
 sumptuous buildings, the wealth, the luxury and revelry of ages ago. 
 
 —182— 
 
The reason for the building at Tiberias by 
 
 It was not too much of a commercial 
 
 ( rece Ba OF TIBERIAS. 
 Herod Antipater of his citadel is very clear. 
 town and the site was dominated by a hill where he could build a castle and yet be 
 
 near the shore. And the neighboring baths made the place famous throughout 
 the Roman world. ‘The building of the citadel took place but a short time before our Lord 
 began His ministry on the lake. The fact that the city v so new, artificial and unclean 
 partly explains its absence from the records of Christ’s minis Our Lord avoided the half- 
 
 Greek cities, and among the courtiers and officials He would have been less at home than 
 
 In 1837, as we have already said in these notes, 
 
 among the common people of the country. 
 
 there was a great earthquake in Tiberias. 
 former grandeur. Walter Besant sa 
 
 There is little to be found of the remains of its 
 s: “This town in the time of Herod was covered with 
 beautiful villas, provided with winter and summer rooms, warmed by hot iron pipes, decorated 
 marble pavements, columns, cloisters and porticos, having gardens round them. * * 
 This was the city upon which our Lord gazed from the lake before it. A pile of noble build- 
 ings rising from the level of the lake behind a lowsea wall ; theaters, amphitheaters, forums, 
 temples, synagogues, baths, rich houses, all crowned by the lofty fortress looking down 
 upon the city In the streets wandered the Roman soldiers, the slaves ran about working, 
 the gladiators lay in the shades, and the scholarly rabbi sat fiercely dividing the word.” 
 
 =183— 
 
= 
 
 < 
 — 
 
 ISHERMEN MAKING NETS, TIBERIAS. —4A little way from the 
 lake, in the Town of Tiberias, we came upon a group of men sitting in the shade of 
 one of the stone buildings preparing, as we see in the picture, a fisherman’s net. It 
 was in this way that the fishermen made their nets in the early ages. The fisherman 
 
 of the Sea of Galilee represents the highest class of men living on the lake. They are 
 sincere and have force of character. ‘They live much in their boats, plying their oars, and 
 take sufficient exercise to make them vigorous and healthy looking. The ancient fisher- 
 men were not learned men, but they were earnest, robust, fair-minded and holy. The 
 Talmud speaks of the Sea of Galilee as famed for its fisheries. The two Bethsaidas took 
 
 their name from the fish market. he first men to whom Jesus offered ‘‘the bread of life” 
 
 were fishermen. Four, at least, of His apostles were fishermen. One morning early in 
 the spring, while teaching the people, two fishing boats came to the shore. The crowd 
 pressed so closely to hear Him that for convenience He asked Peter for his boat from which 
 He might speak, while the multitude pressed closely upon the water’s edge. Near this 
 took place the miraculous draught of fishes, which so astonished Peter that he said 
 “Depart from me, O Lord!”’— feeling himself unworthy of such a master. Jesus kindly, 
 said, “Fear not, Peter, after this thou shalt catch men.’’ At another time He said 
 to Peter and Andrew, “‘I will make you fishers of men”; and a little further on, James 
 and John, with their father, Zebedeus, mending their nets, heard the call of Jesus, “and 
 they left all and followed Him.”’ 
 
 iii 
 
NCIENT BRONZE DOORS, TIBERIAS.—While we were getting 
 photographs of the historic remains in Tiberias our dragoman insisted upon our 
 visiting an old building in the southern portion of the town. Here he said we 
 
 We followed our 
 
 They are certainly of 
 
 superior workmanship and unlike anything produced in modern times in Palestine. There 
 
 could see some bronze doors very ancient and very interesting. 
 guide and found the doors. Just how old they are no one can say. 
 
 js little doubt that they belong to the time of the Romans. They would fit well into the 
 character of Tiberias as it has been graphically and elegantly pictured by Walter Besant. 
 A number of people were standing in the opening of the building and were very much 
 
 amused at our artist when he undertook to photograph the same. Two of the women 
 turned their faces sideways as though they did not care to be photographed. ‘The one in 
 the center, however, seems to have “‘ posed’ with as much care as would any woman in an 
 American photograph gallery. Over the shoulder of the woman in the center we see a beau- 
 tiful baby face. We then moved toward the south of Tiberias and found the hot baths, close 
 tothe shore. There are four springs here and three others a few paces further south. The 
 temperature of the water is 144 degrees Fahrenheit ; the taste is salt and bitter and the pres- 
 ence of sulphur very manifest. These baths are regarded as especially adapted to the cure of 
 rheumatic complaints and are visited in the summer by people from all over the country. 
 
 =—1o5— 
 
hae 
 he eS SENS ENR ES 
 
 os 
 
 = ah 
 
 SUUPTUAUENVEBLNVELISERIATERTtS 
 
 TUEERSENTA 
 
 yao » pe 
 Te ¥ @ 
 
 IDE ALTAR LATIN CHURCH, NAZARETH.— 
 After healing the demoniac of Gadara our Savior returned to 
 Capernaum and was entertained at a feast in the house of Levi.— 
 Matthew, ix:10-17 ; Mark, ii:15-22; Luke, v:29-39. Here Heraised 
 ud a woman’ was healed.—Matthew, ix:18-26 ; 
 Mark, v:21-43 ; Luke, Here He also healed two blind men 
 and cast out a dumb t.—Matthew, ix:27-34. Thence He came into 
 nd taught in their synagogue, ‘in so much that they 
 d, Whence hath this man this wisdom and 
 these mighty works? Is not this the carpenter’s son ? Is not His mother 
 called Mary? and His brethren, James, and Joseph, and Simon, and Judas? 
 and His sisters, are they not all with us? Whence then hath this man 
 
 all these things ?’—Matthew, xiii:53, etc. But they were offended at 
 Him when on the Sabbath day He again taught in the synagogue. 
 Thus He was rejected by His neighbors and companions, and we have 
 no record that He ever returned again to Hisown city. In the view above 
 we have a picture, and a very pretty picture, of the side altar in the 
 Latin Church. Nazareth has been wiped out of existence again and 
 again since our Lord lived there. The perishable nature of its rocks 
 (chalk and lime-stone) has made it an easy prey to the elements as well 
 as to the tread of the Gentile, for Roman, Moslem and Frank have in 
 turn laid its buildings level with the ground. ‘The Latin Church and 
 Convent at Nazareth cover the alleged place of annunciation and of the 
 house of Mary and Joseph, 
 
 —186— 
 
XTERIOR WALL, TIBERIAS.—Atter the second rejection at Nazareth 
 
 Jesus went forth into Galilee and sent forth the twelve.—Matthew, ix: 35-38; 
 x!I-11; Mark, vi:6-13; Luke, ix:1-6. Here He heard of the death of John the 
 Baptist; and at this time Herod gave his opinion of Jesus.—Matthew, xiv: 1-12; 
 
 Mark, vi: 14-29;Luke, ix:7-9. In going from Nazareth to Capernaum he would doubt- 
 less pass again in sight of Tiberias. In the above view we have the exterior of the citadel. 
 Tiberias was quite a modern town when our Lord frequented this region. The walls were 
 strengthened by ten round towers on the west, five on the north and eight on the south. 
 ‘There were also towers along the shore to protect the city against attack from the water. 
 
 The spacious castle is now entirely in ruins. Within the walls dwell about 2,000 inhab- 
 itants. ‘To the west, on the hillside behind the town, are the tombs of many rabbis, and 
 near to this sleep many modern Israelites who deemed it almost as great a blessing to have 
 their dust lay by the side of these holy men as in the Valley of Jehosaphat itself. ‘The 
 shores of Tiberias form one of the gardens of the world.” ‘The plain near it was called 
 “the unparalleled garden of God.” The rabbis testify that the shores of the lake were 
 covered with cities, villages and market places. Renan speaks of it as a “country very 
 green and full of shade and pleasantness ; the true country of the Canticle of Canticles 
 and of the psalms of the well-beloved.’’ 
 
 37 
 
ILL AT BETHSAIDA.— Bethsaida (Fisher-Home), the city of Philip, 
 Andrew and Peter, is one of the Galilean towns associated with our Lord’s minis- 
 try, the site of which is disputed by latter-day research. Some authorities claim 
 but one Bethsaida, believing that it was located upon both sides of the Jordan 
 
 where it enters the lake ; others that there were two, one on the east and one on the west 
 
 of the Jordan. Robinson, Tristram and McGregor have contended that Ain Tabighah was 
 the site of the western Bethsaida; Ritter, Van der Velde, Caspari and Weiss have con- 
 tended that this was the site of the original Bethsaida. The view we give above is from 
 
 Tabighah, which is between Tiberias and Capernaum. It is, probably, the home of Peter, 
 
 Andrew, John and Philip. It was one of the many towns that girded the lake, and which 
 now helps to form that line of debris of dead cities that encircles it. Not far from this 
 must have been the scene of the feeding of the multitude.—Matthew, xiv: 13-21; Mark, vi: 
 31-44; Luke, ix: 10-17; John, vi:1-16. Josephus, speaking of this region, says: “Such is the 
 fertility of this soil that it rejects no plant, and accordingly all are here cultivated by the hus- 
 bandman, for so genial is the air that it suits every variety. * * * When someoneatone of 
 the feasts of the Jews in Jerusalem asked why he could find none of the fruits of Gennesaret 
 there, the answer was that no one may be tempted to come to the feast, merely for the sake of 
 enjoying those fruits.” Here in this neighborhood grows the finest wheat of the land. 
 
 —188— 
 
—6gi— 
 
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 ysvids sasioy any, sed aM sev A[ssoqist] sn oda puv ‘sjoor uapoom 
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 otis, 
 
UR CAMP, KHAN JUBB-YUSEF. — After walking about the Sea 
 
 of Calilee, Christ is represented as healing many at Gennesaret. Above we have 
 a view of our camp at Khan Jubb-Yusef. We spent a day anda half here. The 
 tent to the right is the cooking tent. In the front of this the cook had a long 
 square iron framework in which he placed the charcoal, and about which were ovens, pans 
 and other cooking utensils. ‘This was the entire outfit for cooking. It was carried about 
 day by day, and also the charcoal which furnished fuel for the fire. By means of this 
 primitive and simple cooking appliance he was able to furnish a dinner of six or seven 
 courses. ‘The tent in the middle was used for a lunch tent, when the two large tents and 
 the muleteers had passed on for the camping place in the evening. At ten o’clock every 
 
 day this lunch-tent was stretched iam about two minutes, a couple of rugs placed on the 
 ground and each one provided with a pillow, that tourists might rest while the black coffee 
 and lemonade are being made and other articles prepared for the lunch. ‘he large tent to 
 the left is the sleeping tent. There are several partitions inside, sothat we have sitting 
 room and bed rooms, and the whole place carpeted and comfortably furnished. It was nee 
 custom in the evening after reaching camp to pin our maps to the sides of the tents, get 
 out our books and write out our notes. This tenting place is on the Roman road running 
 from Damascus to Egypt. Here the Bedouins pass with their camps from the Hauran on 
 their way to Egypt. This place also bears the name of the ‘‘ Fountain of the Fig Tree.’” 
 ‘There is a spring near by surrounded by fig trees. 
 
 —r190— 
 
TONE CARVED WORK IN THE SYNAGOGUE AT CAPER- 
 5 NAUM.—At Capernaum in the deep rank grass we observed a beautiful square 
 stone piece of carved work. This relic is supposed to have formed part of the syna- 
 
 gogue which was found in Capernaum at the time of our Savior. Some antiquarians 
 believe that these ruins do not belong to a date earlier than the fourth century. After 
 healing many afflicted people at Gennesaret, Jesus came to Capernaum and delivered a 
 discourse in the synagogue, and here answered the criticism concerning His disciples 
 eating with unwashed hands.—Matthew, xv: 1-20; Mark, vii: 1-23, Colonel Wilson says: 
 “A number of slabs with different floral ornaments were found which may have formed 
 part of a frieze; also several portions of a heavy cornice which may have run above the 
 
 frieze.” Remains of the Corinthian capitals that crowned the twenty-eight columns lie 
 scattered about with debris of ruins of a later date—perhaps of a basilica. Captain 
 McGregor, while on the Sea of Galilee, read the sixth chapter of the Gospel accord- 
 ing to St. John. He says: ‘The very places mentioned in this chapter are on all 
 sides in view, and they frame the page of print into a charming picture. From that 
 pure strand He went over the sea; along that plain a great multitude followed Him; 
 among these hills He went up into a mountain. * * * 
 He lingered alone till 
 the spot where 
 on the sea.”’ 
 
 It was upon those heights 
 in the dark and in the storm, and somewere close to 
 
 I am now reading the disciples saw the same 
 
 Jesus walking 
 
 = 191— 
 
ENERAL VIEW OF TYRE.—“ Then Jesus went thence and departed 
 into the coast of Tyre and Sidon.” It was here that a woman of Cana—the Syro- 
 Phoenician — made that plea for her daughter grievously vexed with the devil. It 
 was here that Jesus wrought a cure and said to the woman, ‘‘O, Woman! great 
 
 is thy faith!” ‘Tyre is a very ancient city. Its ancient and present name is Sir. It was 
 
 powerful as early as 1200 B. C. During Solomon’s reign two hundred years later it had the 
 largest commerce anywhere on the Mediterranean. ‘There were two (or really three) cities. 
 
 Old Tyre (Palzetyrus) lay on the mainland, on two rocky islands ; in front of this lay the sea- 
 
 port, arsenals and storehouses; on the mainland Tyrus, of perfect beauty, made glorious 
 
 in the midst of the sea, “stood,” with all her palaces, temples, castles, towers, her beautiful 
 
 gardens and fountains. ‘Tyre was a fair and beautiful possession’ which nearly all the 
 old conquerors wished to make their own. The names of Sargon, King of Assyria, and 
 Nebuchadnezzar and Alexander are associated with thisroyal city. Modern Tyreis an unim- 
 portant place, its trade having been diverted almost entirely to Beirfit. It contains about 
 five thousand inhabitants, half of them Moslems, the other half chiefly Christians, and a few 
 Jews. Thestreets are miserable, the houses dilapidated and few antiquities are to be found. 
 ‘Where are they now? ‘The note is o’er. 
 Yes! For a thousand years or more 
 Five fathoms deep beside the sea 
 Those halls have lain all silently.’’ 
 
 —i92— 
 
Matthew, xv:29-31; Mark,vii:31-37, and having fed the four thousand—Matthew, 
 Xv:32-39; Mark, viii:1-10, He sent the multitude away and took ship and came 
 into the coast of Magdala—Matthew, xv:39. Magdala is now called Mejdel, a 
 miserable little hamlet, the only inhabited spot on the plain of Gennesaret. ‘There are 
 here about twenty miserable houses and the ruins of a watch tower of not very ancient 
 date. This is supposed to have been the birthplace of Mary Magdalene, out of whom 
 Christ cast seven devils, and to whom He appeared after His resurrection—Mark, xvi:9. In 
 the picture above, which was taken at half-past eight o’clock in the morning of May 9th, 
 1894, we are looking toward the north. ‘This is all that remains of a spot associated with 
 
 a name familiar and fragrant as “‘ ointment poured fourth,’’ because of the lesson of love 
 and forgiveness left us in the story of Mary Magdalene. Edwin Arnold has given a splendid 
 picture of the Magdalene showing the power of the Christ over her life and character. 
 Whether she was a dissolute woman, as tradition represents her, or merely the 
 victim of some terrible disease attributed to the presence and domination of 
 demons, the power of Christ’s grace was sufficient to transform her into a sweet and 
 lovely saint, obedient to His will who redeemed her and eager to serve Him. We 
 turn from Mejdel and look again toward the sea. Great was this Wonder - worker 
 of the land of Galilee! But He is the same yesterday, to-day and forever, and in all 
 lands under the sun. 
 
 —193— 
 
6 © ONASTERY NEAR BETHSAIDA.—“‘The Pharisees also, with the 
 Sadducees, came,” it is said, ‘‘and tempting desired Him that He would show them 
 
 a sign from heaven.—Matthew, xvi:1-4; Mark, viii:11, 12. Christ warns the dis- 
 
 ciples against the leaven of the Pharisees.—Matthew, xvi:5-12 ; Mark, viii:13-21. 
 
 “And He cometh to Bethsaida and they bring a blind man unto Him and besought Him to 
 touch him.’ — Mark,viii:22. From this western Bethsaida Christ called three of His disciples, 
 Philip, Andrew and Peter, and it is supposed also that this was the home of Zebedee and 
 his two sons, the Apostles James and John. It is called by John “‘ Bethsaida in Galilee,” 
 to distinguish it perhaps from the other.—John, i: 44-12-21. In the above view we have 
 
 We havea 
 
 the new monastery near the western Bethsaida. We look toward the east. 
 view of the upper Gardarene country beyond the Sea of Galilee and see the gradual falling 
 of the country as it slopes toward the sea on the north. The monastery is a favorite 
 stopping place for tourists who pass through the country on horseback without a tent. The 
 monks who keep the place are very kind to travelers. Asa rule they make no charge for 
 entertainment, but all tourists stopping with them reward their kindness and hospitality. The 
 stone walls are thick and the air likely to be cool. One may be refreshed by water, by most 
 excellent lemonade and by delicious coffee. Before us isthe lovely sea. When we made our 
 first voyage upon it many years ago not a breath of air swayed the canvas or rippled the sea. 
 
 —194— 
 
RCHES, HARAM esh-SHERIF. — The Jews’ Feast of Tabernacles 
 QO was at hand. Jesus sent His disciples on before Him to Jerusalem and afterward 
 went up Himself, ‘ not openly, but as it were in secret.’’—John, vii:2-8-10. Then He 
 Himself came to the Holy City and taught.—John, vii:14-17. We look in the picture 
 
 above at the site of the temple as it appears to-day. The Haram esh-Sherif, the “‘ Noble 
 Sanctuary,” is the pride and ornament of the City of Jerusalem.”” The massive and lofty 
 walls that surround it, the broad, elevated platform, encircled by graceful arches, its pulpits 
 and prayer-niches and cupolas ; and the beautiful Mosque of Omar, rising above all and 
 glistening in the sunbeams ; the marble fountains, groups of olive and cypress trees, all 
 together form a picture which is scarcely surpassed in the world. Fergusson proves the 
 
 arch to have been used in the time of Sargon, 721 B. C., but there are ‘“‘too many Herodian 
 signs to permit us to indulge the dream.” One writer relates: ‘‘ With no other escort but 
 our Mohammedan guide,we entered the jealously guarded precincts of the Haram, and were 
 conducted down a gradual decline for some distance over smooth rock, and then upon the 
 sward or green grass to the foot of a flight of steps which led up to the lofty and pointed arches 
 which stood on the paved platform of the mosque called el-Mawazin, or ‘‘ the Scales,” because 
 on the day of judgment the scales are to be suspended there to weigh the evil and the right- 
 eous. In the picture we are looking toward the north, and beyond the walls see the hills of 
 Judea. One can almost hear the echo of Christ’s words spoken here: ‘‘If any man will do 
 His will he shall know of the doctrine, whether it be of God or whether I speak of Myself.’” 
 
 —T95— 
 
OAB’S WELL.— This is now called En Rogel, and by the natives Bir Kytb. 
 
 It was known as the ‘‘ Well of Joab,’ and by Europeans, ‘‘ the Well of Nehemiah.” 
 
 It is situated in the Valley of the Kedron near its junction with the Valley of 
 Hinnom. It was by this well that Jonathan and Ahimaaz, David’s servants, waited 
 
 for instructions from Hushai during Absalom’s rebellion, in order to collect and send 
 news to David. And here also Adonijah, David’s son, assembled his friends when he 
 aspired to be king in his father’s stead. This well is one hundred and twenty-five feet 
 deep, walled up with large hewn stones, with an arch above apparently of high antiquity. 
 At the depth of about one hundred and thirteen feet there is a large chamber, from the 
 bottom of which a shaft leads downward to a rock-hewn chamber below. From this Col. 
 
 Wilson thinks the well was once deeper than now. The people of Siloam carry on quite a 
 trade in this water. A small, rude building of stone is now over it, furnished with troughs, 
 into which the water is poured when drawn. ‘ After abundant rains the water of this well 
 overflows, forming with the surface water of the neighboring hills a little stream in the 
 Kedron. ‘The water is pure and entirely sweet, quite different from that in Siloam, which 
 I have seen it gushing out like a mill- 
 
 proves that there is no connection between them. 
 stream some fifteen rods south of the well, and then the whole valley was alive with people 
 bathing in it and indulging in every species of hilarity.’ In the above view we look 
 toward the south and get an excellent idea of the mountainous character of the country 
 about Jerusalem. 
 
 —196— 
 
valley, in the center of the Ophel Hill, is the Fountain of the Virgin (Ain Umm 
 ed-Deraj). ‘This is an intermittent spring, the waters of which are carried into 
 the pool of Siloam by a rock-cut canal which passes through the hill. This is 
 called the Dragon’s Well from a tradition of the natives, which places a dragon in the 
 bottom of the well, who is sufficiently thirsty to swallow up all the water when he is 
 awake, but who, when alsleep, does not drink, thus giving the natives a chance to get 
 water. This tradition is founded on the fact that the water is intermittent in its flow. The 
 Palestine Exploration Survey has identified this place with the Upper Pool of Gihon. The 
 water rises from a cave twenty-five feet deep, cut in the Ophelrock. Passing down a flight 
 
 jOeer FOUNTAIN, JERUSALEM.—To the east of the Kedron 
 
 of sixteen steps, we come to a chamber eighteen feet long, ten feet wide and ten feet high. 
 
 The sides of it are built of stone with a pointed arch at the top. By passing down a flight 
 of fourteen more steps, we come to a rock grotto containing the fountain itself. The listiere 
 mittent flow is said to be very irregular, and can only be counted on two or three times a 
 day in the spring, and only once in two or three days in the fall. It is thought to be the 
 King’s Pool mentioned in Nehemiah, ii:14. It is also thought to be the Place referred to 
 by Josephus as Solomon’s Reservoir. It was while Jesus was on this visit to Jerusalem 
 (see chronological outline) that an attempt was made to stone Him. —John, viii:15-29. He 
 also healed a man born biind.—John, xiv: 1-38; and gave His discourse on the Good 
 Shepherd.—John, ix:39; x:21. He then returned to Galilee. 
 
 —197— 
 
| 
 ve 
 
 SILL NEAR THE WATERS OF MEROM.~—The next reference 
 made to Christ, in the Harmony we follow, is in Matthew, xvi:13, where it is 
 said: ‘When Jesus came into the coasts of Caesarea Philippi, He asked His‘dis- 
 ciples, saying, Whom do you say that I, the Son of Man, am?” Reference is 
 also made to this in Mark, vii:27-33 ; Luke, ix:18-22. We have already illustrated the way 
 Jesus would likely pass from Jerusalem to Galilee. Leaving Galilee and making His way 
 toward Caesarea Philippi, He would necessarily pass up near the Jordan. Lake Merom, or 
 the Marsh of Huleh, is only a part of the Jordan River, as in the case of Lake Galilee. 
 Lake Merom is about ten miles north of the Sea of Galilee. It is triangular in shape, 
 from ten to sixteen feet in depth and six feet above the level of the sea. It abounds in 
 
 | 
 
 pelicans and wild duck. In the above view we give a picture of a mill on the waters of 
 e- alk S 2 rni a re. 4 J: 
 Merom, taken at ten o’clock on the EO ning. after we left our camp at Khan Jubb Yusef, 
 We are looking toward the west. In this mill the natives grind wheat. 
 ing in the door, is curiously observing our movements. 
 
 The miller, stand- 
 : : The country in the neighborhood 
 of this mill is very fertile, inhabited mostly by Bedouins, who seem to be more thrifty 
 than the natives in the lower part of Palestine. These Bedouins have great herds of 
 cattle, sheep and goats, and they mind them by day and carefully watch and feed 
 them. Here, about Merom and on the neighboring mountains, “is one of the 
 finest hunting grounds in Syria.’” Lake Merom is associated with the life of Joshua.— 
 Joshua, xi:5-7. 
 
 —198— 
 
THE JORDAN.—tThis is a bridge over the 
 @) Hasbany, one of the leading sources of the Jordan. Leaving the plain of Huleh, 
 we crossed the bridge which tradition assigns to Roman times, but it perhaps 
 
 HE BRIDGE OVER 
 
 belongs to a much later date than that. It is sorely in need of repairs. You will 
 observe a rock-paved roadway coming down to the bridge from the right. This extends 
 up the hill the same way; but directiy over the bridge this rock road has been removed, 
 and there is nothing now but the layer of stone which makes up the arch of the bridge to 
 constitute a roadway. It is a wild, picturesque place. This prong of the Jordan dashes 
 down the declivity, throwing up its spray on all sides. ‘‘ We pass up a deep gorge, worn by 
 the mountain stream and cut into a channel, at some points nearly 200 feet deep. Along 
 
 its bed the stream dashes against great volcanic bowlders, while the banks are lined with 
 oleanders, willows, honeysuckle, and other sweet and flowering shrubs. The noise of the 
 water and the charming scent of the flowers, together with the wild natural scene, combine 
 to make this place romantic and beautiful.” This bridge is called Jisr el Cituchere or Jisr 
 Benat Ya’K6b (Bridge of Jacob’s Daughters), and is about three miles from Tel ail Kady 
 or Dan. Over this bridge probably ran the road from Damascus and the Hauran to the 
 west side of the Jordan. Was it across this bridge that Saul of Tarsus passed, “ breathing 
 out threatening and slaughter against the disciples of the Lord’? The scenery here is 
 wild to the last degree. Under the arch of the bridge we see the wild waters of the Hasban: 
 
 torn into fury as they encounter the rocks in their hurrying sweep to the south. 2 
 
 =199— 
 
AN.—Tell el Kady —‘‘ The Well of the Judge’? —the Dan of Scripture, once the 
 great border city, is ‘laid waste.” ‘‘It has no name in history, no story or legend 
 to attract the notice of the passing pilgrim or the Bible student. It had once a 
 historic name, which is not yet quite gone. Upon this hill Jeroboam built a 
 
 temple and set up in its shrine one of his golden calves, thus polluting that “Holy land” 
 
 which the Lord gave in covenant promise to the seed of Abraham. Therefore has this 
 curse come upon Dan. The ruined foundation can still be traced. At the edge of the 
 wide plain below a long succession of olive yards and oak glades, which slope down from 
 
 Banias, rises an artificial-looking mound of limestone rock, flat topped, eighty feet high 
 
 Its western side is covered with an impregnable thicket of 
 
 and half a mile in diameter. 
 
 teeds, oaks, and oleanders, which entirely conceal the shapeless ruins, and are nurtured 
 by the “lower springs”? of Jordan. On the eastern side of the mound, overhanging 
 another bright feeder of the Jordan, are a holm oak and a terebinth, side by Chemie 
 noble trees which shade the graves of Arab saints and the luncheon of European travelers. 
 This terebinth is the largest of its kind in Syria. Tell el Kady, the site of the ancient 
 city, is cup-shaped. Standing in the midst of the plain, it resembles an extinct crater, 
 which it may be, for the stones about the plain are volcanic. Though one of the sagirilexs 
 sites in Palestine, though encompassed by a plain of unrivaled fertility, it and its plain 
 are now alike desolate. The prophetic curse is fulfilled to the letter. There is not a 
 single inhabitant in the ancient City of Dan. 
 
 = 00 
 
forth one of the largest fountains in Syria, and what is said to be the largest 
 single fountain in the world. Its waters form a miniature lake, and then dash- 
 ing through an oleander thicket and across the plain southward a deep, rapid 
 river. This is called the ‘‘lower springs of Jordan.’”” On the eastern side of the mound 
 is a smaller fountain, which springs up within the tell and flows off through a break 
 in the rim on the southwest, and foaming down the bank joins its sister. This is the 
 principal source of the Jordan. ‘‘Just at this break stands a noble oak and a terebinth, 
 whose branches are hung with votive offerings of all sorts of rubbish, as Israel of old 
 set up their altars under the great trees and in the groves of high places.” The 
 
 © « JORDAN AT DAN.-— From the western base of Tell El-Kady bursts 
 
 fountain springing from the western side of the mound is supposed to be where the 
 drainage of the southern side of Hermon, pent up between a hard and a soft stratum, 
 seems to have found a collective exit. The waters of the fountains soon unite and 
 wind down the rich plain, both fountain and stream bearing the name El-Seddon, 
 possibly some Arab corruption of Dan. The united waters flow on through the plain 
 to the lake, some six miles distant. Such is the principal fountain and such is the 
 gradual formation of the River Jordan. Near the place we stood in taking this 
 picture are several Moslem graves. The Phcenicians once owned this site, and their 
 city was called Laish. A band of six hundred Danites seized it, and it was then 
 called Dan. ‘‘ From Dan to Bersheba”’ defined the limits of Palestine. 
 
 —20I— 
 
NTRANCE TO CAESAREA PHILIPPI.—Cesarea Philippi, Banias. 
 G This ancient city occupies one of the most picturesque sites in Syria. It is about 
 three and a half miles from Dan. This was anciently the old Greek city of Panium, 
 
 which Herod the Great rebuilt and renamed Caesarea Philippi. In the picture we 
 are looking northward. We enter the old city through a gateway beyond a narrow single- 
 arched bridge. ‘‘ Two sublime ravines cut deeply into the ridge, having between them an 
 jsolated cone more than 1000 feet in height crowned by the ruins of Subeibeh. On the 
 terrace at the base of this cone lie the ruins of Casarea Philippi. The terrace itself is 
 covered with oak and olive trees, having green glades and clumps of hawthorn, acacia and 
 myrtle here and there, all alive with streams of water and cascades.”” ‘he main attraction of 
 Banids is the great fountain, the “‘ upper source » of the Jordan, bursting from the mouth of 
 
 ” 
 
 a cave, sweeping down a rocky bed, scattering its spray over thickets of oleander and 
 dashing away over fallen columns and rocks, and at length plunging over a precipice into a 
 
 dark ravine. ‘The citadel, the walls, the moat, the bridge, the gateway, the towers, are all 
 worthy of study, but there is one episode in the history of Caesarea Philippi which 
 has served to impress it more deeply on the memory and heart of the Christian than 
 all the pomp and circumstance of Syrian, Greek and Roman idolatry. Into the coast of 
 of Caesarea Philippi came our Redeemer. Six days at least did He sojourn here. Among 
 these rocks St. Peter confessed His divinity, that confession which was the ‘‘Rock of 
 the Church,’’ while still in the same region Christ led three of His disciples ‘‘untoa 
 high mountain’? and was ‘“‘transfigured before them.” It is strongly probable that 
 Mount Hermon was the mount of transfiguration. 
 
 —202— 
 
main, permanent source of that sacred river in which the Son of Man was baptized. 
 The stream which flows from this spring is called the Leddan, This is the 
 birthplace of the Jordan. It is called the chief of the Jordan from its 
 being the most copious. It is 504 feet above the sea level and contains twice 
 as much water as the stream from Banias. There is another spring about half 
 as large as this one at Dan at Cesarea Philippi, two and a half miles to the east. 
 esarea Philippi is the eastern source of the holy river. There 
 
 on RCE OF THE JORDAN.—The fountain at Dan, Tel el-Kady, is the 
 ® 
 
 The spring at C 
 is another source near the town of Hasbeya, under the west side of Mount Hermon. These 
 three noted springs are fed by the snows of Mount Hermon and maintain their flow through- 
 
 out the whole year. In the above view we are looking toward the north. You will 
 observe a large vigorous fig tree just at the point where the Jordan issues from under the 
 tangled growth of vegetation. How exquisitely beautiful are the tiny blossoms to the left 
 ofthe picture! The artist, and one of the editors of this work, were at this place on the 11th 
 of May, 1894, when this picture wastaken. ‘The sun was at high noon, the birds were singing 
 
 in the groves, the aroma of the flowers filled the air, and the noise of many waters came up 
 from many sections. There was here just the combination that goes to make the most de- 
 lightful scene we had enjoyed in Palestine —the colors of the flowers, the songs of the 
 birds, the perfume in the air, the rush of waters, and the light of this glorious oriental 
 sun. 
 
 —203— 
 
SECOND VIEW OF THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN.— 
 
 ‘ull grown at first,” the river dashes through an oleander thicket among stones 
 
 and fragments of the ancient ruins, sparkling and leaping to the valley below. 
 
 George Adams Smith in his “Historical Geography of the Holy Land” says: 
 
 “ Among the rivers of the world the Jordan is unique by twofold distinctions of nature and 
 history. ‘There are hundreds of other streams more large, more useful or more beautiful ; 
 there is none which has been more spoken about by mankind.” While standing here at 
 the source of this sacred river let us look down the plain of the Jordan and give some of 
 the measurements furnished by Professor McGarvey. The first expansion which the Jordan 
 s in Lake Huleh, or the waters of Merom. 
 
 makes ‘This is three miles wide at its northern 
 
 end and four miles long. 
 
 The beginning of Lake Huleh is twelve miles from the great 
 spring at Dan. 1 
 
 From Huleh to Lake Galilee is about ten miles, and the difference in the 
 elevation between the two lakes is 682 feet. The second expansion of the Jordan is in the 
 waters of the Sea of Galilee, which lake is about twelve and a half miles long and six wide. 
 Dr. McGarvey compares the form of the lake to the longitudinal section of ap 
 with the stem-end toward the south. Lake Galilee is 682 feet below the Mediter- 
 ranean. Its greatest depth is 165 feet. From its southern end the Jordan River takes 
 a zig-zag course toward the Dead Sea. In a straight line the distance is but 
 ixty-five miles. To follow the of the river one must 
 
 ar 
 
 niles. 
 
 windings go two hundred 
 
 —204— 
 
ATARACT OF THE J ORDAN.—Dean Stanley compares the foun- 
 tains and the cataracts which constitute the sources of the Jordan toa ‘‘ Syrian 
 Tivoli.’ He says: ‘From the cave, from the ruins, from every chink and every 
 cranny in the soil and rocks around, the water gushes forth, which soon collects 
 
 into a torrent, dashes in sheets of foam down a rocky bed and at length plunges over a 
 
 precipice into a dark ravine.” The cataract of the eastern branch of the Jordan, which we 
 
 see in the above picture, is 1,000 feet above the level of the waters of Merom, which are on 
 
 a level with the Mediterranean Sea. As these waters make a descent of 682 feet inthe whole 
 
 distance from Lake Huleh to the Sea of Galilee, and 610 feet from the Sea of Galilee to 
 
 the Dead Sea, we are, therefore, at this point 2,292 feet above the Dead Sea, which shows 
 
 that the fall of the River Jordan in a direct line, not more than ninety-five miles, is 2,292 
 feet. In making this descent, the Jordan runs with every point of the compass. It flows 
 north, south, east and west. In some places the fall is equal to forty feet to the mile, in 
 others it is eleven feet to the mile, and in others eighty-five feet. 
 
 Some one has compared 
 its movement to that of a ‘coiled serpent.’ 
 
 As the interior of the country is on either 
 side fora great part of the year parched with drought it is only along the banks of the 
 Jordan that the vegetation is green and fresh. For this reason the birds come from all the 
 country round about and sing along the banks of the Jordan throughout the entire year. 
 Thus did the multitude gather by this river from all parts of the land to hear the teachings 
 of the Christ, which, like fountains of living water, refreshed the people. 
 
 —205— 
 
face of the perpendicular cliff of the Hermon range that slopes down to Caesarea 
 Philippi. This is in the north part of the town. There are on the rock inscriptions 
 in Greek letters. This, it is thought, was a temple dedicated to the god Pan, who is 
 the god of shepherds. ‘To this day the place is a general resort for sheep and goats. Tra- 
 dition made Pan haunt the mountains and the pasture. In form, it is said, he was both 
 man and beast, having a red face, horny head and flat nose, with legs, thighs and feet of 
 Servius says that ‘‘ Pan is the rustic god formed in similitude of nature, whence 
 He has horns in the similitude of the rays of the sun 
 His shaggy limbs 
 
 © sev OF PAN.— Iu the above picture we see niches and recesses cut in the 
 
 the goat. 
 he is called Pan, that is, ‘The All.’ 
 and of the moon”’’ ‘The stars are represented on his spotted breast. 
 
 represent trees, shrubs and wild beasts. His goat feet denote the ‘‘ stability of the earth.” 
 He has “‘a pipe of seven reeds on account of the harmony of the hez veus, in which there 
 are seven sounds.’ We have never seen a place more in accordance with the nature 
 of the traditional Pan. Here are the streams, the wild woods, the goats, the mountains 
 and all things in nature friendly to the genius of this heathen god. The Christ 
 who came to Cesarea Philippi was appointed to make contest with the powers 
 of evil and with heathen gods. ‘The Greek deity Pan had superseded the 
 older Syrian Baal. The Roman hero-god Paneus supplanted them both. For this 
 pee the place is called Banids. The Christ shall yet subdue all to him- 
 self. 
 
 —206 — 
 
structures on the top of low stone houses. The natives in Czesarea Philippi 
 living among the ruins of the ancient city are afraid of scorpions, and the 
 people to escape them during the night build on the top of stone buildings 
 summer houses made of reeds and brush, and into these they crawl to spend the night. 
 They are lifted about two feet on poles above the roof and are said to be very cool and 
 comfortable at night. Summer houses are used only for sleeping purposes. Whatever 
 of cooking is done is in the lower stone apartment. : These people are extremely super- 
 stitious. _ Many of them are diseased, and in their ignorance suppose that any kind of 
 medicine will do them good. It is quite common, therefore, with them to plead with 
 
 Oe HOUSE, CAESAREA PHILIPPI.—Here are curious 
 
 travelers for medicine. A gentleman from Canada, whom we met frequently on our 
 journey, had learned, when a boy, several sleight-of-hand devices. When our Canadian 
 friend came to Czesarea Philippi the natives gathered around him. He astonished them by 
 stooping down and picking up a pebble about as large as a marble, put it in his mouth and 
 seemed to swallow it, then reaching down, he pulled it out of his ankle. The natives at 
 once regarded him as a man endowed with divine power. He was immediately surrounded 
 by rheumatics and people with various ailments, who besought him to relieve them. 
 George Adams Smith, referring to the coins used the neighborhood, shows the extraordi- 
 nary mixture of religious and political interests which characterized this place during the 
 first century of our era. 
 
 —207 — 
 
ASTLE AT CAESAREA PHILIPPI.— Passing up the slopes of the 
 Hermon range, we came after an hour’s ride from Ce a Philippi to the 
 Castle of Subeibeh. ‘This castle is about one thousand feet long and three 
 hundred feet wide. Its walls'in some places are one hundred feet in height. 
 
 It is large enough to accommodate a small army, and is, perhaps, the strongest fortr 
 
 in Syria. The antiquarian finds in it traces of the work of all periods, from the Phoe- 
 
 nicians to the Crusaders. ‘The view from the summit is very fine. Looking toward the 
 southwest we see the plain of the Jordan and the hills of Galilee, the slopes descend- 
 ing in terraces to Caesarea Philippi, just below us. We approached it from the east. 
 
 On the north side of the castle it is six hundred feet to the bottom of the ravine. Dr. 
 
 Selah Merrill calls this the ‘‘ Gibraltar of Palestine.’ We left Caesarea Philippi on the 
 morning of May irth, 1894, and reached the castle about twelve o’clock. While the 
 dragoman was preparing our lunch some native boys gathered about us. They had charge 
 of goats which they bring every day to the top of the hill, returning to their village homes 
 in the evening. Robbers occupy these ruins at night. It is interesting to us to think as 
 we stand on this summit, that yonder on Hermon the transfiguration in all probability a 
 place. It is a relieving feature in the midst of this utter desolation to think of Him 
 who came to give humanity life, love and immortality. In Him are tow of strength 
 which no assaults of foes can overthrow. ‘‘He is a strong tower’’ to those who live ab 
 faith in Him. 
 
 —208 — 
 
TAIRWAY TO TOWER OF CASTLE.—We are here looking toward 
 ‘The Hermon range rises beyond. This picture was taken about one 
 
 the north. 
 © The Castle of Banidés, under the name of 
 
 o’clock on the 11th day of May, 1894. 
 
 Kul’at-es-Subeibeh, figured largely in the wars between the Saracens of Damascus 
 and the Templars of Jerusalem, as it commands the passage from the Huleh and the plains 
 of Jordan, over Hermon to Damascus and the east, and must have been a place of impor- 
 tance, at least during those troublous times when such passes v ere dominated by a frown- 
 ing castle. The east end is far the highest, and the fortifications there are exceedingly 
 strong, commanding most effectually the steep declivity wp which the road was cut, and 
 advantage has been taken of this to form a citadel capable of separate defense. The native 
 tradition is that the stairway at the west end, down which one gropes his way into the 
 
 vaults beneath, “‘ was a subterranean or submontane passage to the great fountain of Banids, 
 by which the garrison could obtain both water and provisions; but as that is two miles dis- 
 tant, and so far below, the story is incredible.” A modern traveler says, however: “A 
 respectable man of Hasbeiya assured me that he once descended it a long distance to where 
 it was blocked up by the falling in of the roof.’’ Within the ramparts the natural rock 
 rises in places higher than the walls, and immense cisterns are hewn in it, which contain 
 an abundant supply of water. ‘‘ There is also a space sufficient for a strong garrison, and 
 they might even raise supplies ; and though there is no fountain, the large hewn cisterns 
 would afford abundance of good water.” George Adams Smith well says: ‘Running up in 
 the harbour is the gate from the north into Palestine, and Banias, which was a fortress as 
 well as a sanctuary, is the key of the gate.” 
 
 oa 
 
hundred feet above the Mediterranean, and at least one thousand feet above the 
 
 town. ‘The fortifications on the east are exceedingly strong. On the west there is 
 
 a moat hewn in the rock, and a high rampart separates it from the rest of the castle. 
 On the south and west the mountain sinks down steeply for fifteen hundred feet to the yil- 
 lage of Banids, and on the north yawns the frightful gorge of Wady Kushabeh, eight hun- 
 dred feet deep. Without the walls are founded on scarped cliffs, and there is no mode of 
 entrance except from the lower fortress, through a small portal in the round tower near the 
 southwestern angle. The walls are defended by the formidab.e round-towers. ‘‘It was 
 thus unapproachable on all sides by an assailing force, and could have been taken only by 
 treachery or starvation; nor would it have been easy to starve the place into surrender if 
 
 © ven OF CASTLE.—The top of the Castle of Banias is two thousand three 
 
 properly provided with food.’’ The entrance is the best-preserved part of the castle, and 
 the walls and towers are still in places nearly perfect.’’ This remarkable preservation is 
 probably owing to the quality of the stone, which is very compact and hard as adamant ; it 
 rings when struck like metal. ‘‘Kven these blocks, which have been thrown down in con- 
 fusion for many centuries, are as perfect as the day when they were cut from the moun- 
 tains.’’ Colonel Wilson does not place the antiquity of the castle earlier than the eighth 
 or ninth century; others think it was constructed long anterior to the Crusades. It passed 
 through the usual varied fortunes of Syrian fortresses—now taken by Christians and now 
 by Moslems. It was last taken by storm in 1165 by Nureddin of Damascus. ‘The crescent 
 thenceforth waved oyer its battlements until the XVIIth Century, when it was abandoned. 
 What a contrast between the love of the Son of Man and the hatred of the rival nations. 
 
 —— 21 
 
OUNT HERMON FROM THE CASTLE.— “And after six days 
 Jesus taketh Peter, James and John his brother, and bringeth them up into a 
 high mountain apart, and was transfigured before them; and His face did shine 
 as the sun, and His raiment was white as the light. And, behold, there appeared 
 
 unto them Moses and Elias talking with Him. Then answered Peter and said unto Jesus, 
 
 Lord, it is good for us to be here: if thou wilt, let us make here three tabernacles ; one for 
 
 Thee, and one for Moses, and one for Elias. While he yet spake, behold, a bright cloud 
 
 overshadowed them: and behold a voice out of the cloud, which said, This is My beloved 
 
 Son, in whom I am well pleased ; hear ye Him.” The present view is taken from the top 
 
 of the castle at Caesarea Philippi. The veritable mountain beyond is dwarfed in the view 
 
 ©) 
 
 by the high projection immediately before us, but that noble and lofty outline against 
 the Syrian sky is the ancient Hermon, one of the majestic heights which once seen can 
 never be forgotten. It is in view from nearly every section of Eastern and Western Pales- 
 tine. As Dr. Selah Merrill says, ‘not only from Galilee, but from many points in Samaria 
 and Judea, as well as from Olivet and the Red Sea; and from Gilead and Bashan, it is 
 clearly seen, and is looked up to as the great land-mark of the country.”? What a splendid 
 site for the revelation to His chosen disciples of that celestial glory out of which He came, 
 toward which He moved, and with the powers of which, during His lowly pilgrimage, he 
 was invested! Here there is a beautiful harmony between the glory of the outward scenery 
 and the splendor of the spiritual manifestation. 
 
 —2TI— 
 
the southern slope of Mount Hermon, brings the traveller to a little valley, where 
 stands a mill in a plantation of silver poplars. This belongs to the little Druse 
 village of Mejdel esh-Shems, which lies behind the hill to the left, and soon 
 comes in sight. Above are the volcanic rocks, and still higher the snowy peaks of great 
 Hermon. At this altitude the flora differs from that of the plains below, and is very beau- 
 tiful, especially in May. The people of Medjel esh-Shems are industrious and independent, 
 but turbulent. ‘The Druses abound in the villages on the eastern and western declivities of 
 Hermon. ‘They also occupy the southern section of the chain of Lebanon, their strongholds 
 being around Jezzin and in the valley of Barfk. Their chief trade is the manufacture of 
 silk. The children of Mejdel esh-Shems met us offering to sell petrified shells, nuts, etc. 
 
 The Druses may be estimated at about 78,000. ‘They are more a political than a religious body, 
 and the tenets of their faith and mode of worship are kept strictly secret. ‘Their books, 
 however, have now found their way to Europe. The founder of the sect was the Caliph 
 Hakim, of the Third Fatimite dynasty in Egypt. Mohammed Ben Ismail ed-Deraz 7, a 
 Persian propagandist, driven from Egypt for his fanaticism, brought the doctrine to Syria, 
 settling at Wady et-Teim, at the western base of Hermon. They believe in the unity of 
 God and His manifestation through Hakim ; in five superior teachers, the chief of whom 
 were Homza and Christ ; in the transmigration of souls, and the triumph of their religion. 
 They are ‘‘all things to all men,” that they may gain something for themselves and talk 
 freely of God. ‘‘A hard Druse of Mount Lebanon,” says Dr. Thomson, “would edify a 
 Payson or a Martyn.” 
 
 2 
 
EDOUIN VILLAGE NEAR CAESAREA PHILIPPI.—Here is a 
 camp of Bedouin Arabs with their tents. Childhood and youth and old age are 
 here. Beyond are the desolate mountains, fit surroundings for such a group of 
 
 ignorant, superstitious and degraded people. 
 living in tents for thousands of years. No wonder that with such creatures as these below 
 on ie plain, the dream and desire of Peter, on the mountain, should not be gratified by his 
 
 Master. Peter, amidst the glory of the transfiguration, desired to remain on the heights. 
 
 He would have three tabernacles built--one for Jesus, and one for Moses, and one for 
 
 Hlijah. He would spend the rest of his life in the rapture of this royal fellowship, amidst 
 
 These children of nature have been 
 
 the splendor of this celestial epiphany ; but it was like Christ to go down into the plain 
 where the people needed His presence, for it was as they came down from this mountain of 
 transfiguration that they came to the multitude. ‘And when they were come to the multi- 
 tude there came to Him a certain man, kneeling down to Him, and saying, Lord, have 
 mercy on my son, for he is a lunatic, and sore vexed ; for ofttimes he falleth into the f 
 and oft into the water; and I brought him to Thy disciples, and they could not cure hit 
 Then Jesus answered and said: O faithless and perverse generation, how long shall I 
 be with you? How long shallI suffer you? Bring him hither to Me. And Jesus rebuked 
 the devil; and he departed cut of him; and the child was cured from that very hour.” 
 
 au 
 
 Rig 
 
ZYIEW FROM THE MOUNT OF BEATITUDES.- There is a beautiful 
 
 oh view of the Lake of Galilee that, if once seen, can never be forgotten. Let us try to 
 
 see it as our Lord saw it when He sat with His disciples and taught the people in that 
 
 greatest discourse of all time—the Sermon on the Mount. Leaving Capernaum in 
 the afternoon, He had walked round by the road on the west side of the lake, then turning 
 to His right, had followed a wild, rocky gorge up to the cliffs above, beyond which was a 
 plain covered with grass, and thyme, and wild flowers. Beyond this plain rose two cone- 
 like peaks, with a grassy valley between, shaped like a saddle. The peaks are called 
 Kurfin Hattin—the “Horns of Hattin’’—and are of volcanic structure. Upon one of these 
 peaks our Lord spent the night in prayer. Descending in the morning to the space between 
 the two mounts, He doubtless found the people already waiting for Him to hear His word. 
 
 First calling His friends around Him— most of them fishermen who lived on the lakeside 
 below—He called them to become “fishers of men,” apostles of the Christian Church. 
 Then, as the people gathered in great numbers, He ascended the hill a little way with His 
 disciples, and sat down to teach, while the people crowded the high, grassy valley, and 
 listened to His wonderful words. ‘“ Blessed are the poor in spirit,” He began, ‘‘ for theirs is 
 the kingdom of Heayen.’”’ And so, like pearls of great price, the ten blessings fell from 
 His lips asa prelude to the great discourse. Below lay the blue Gennesaret, with its circle 
 of towns and fishing boats. To the northeast rose Mount Hermon’s snowy peak, while 
 south of the lake and the Gadarene hills lay the Valley of the Jordan, losing itself in the 
 haze that hangs over the Dead Sea. Such is the scene to-day, only the lake is circled 
 with ruins and the multitudes have passed away. 
 
 en ee 
 
ETHSAIDA.—I: this picture we look toward the north and directly away from 
 the Sea of Galilee. One of our muleteers stands in a perfect wilderness of flowers. 
 he view was taken on the 9th of May, 1894, at ten o’clock a.m. It is on the edge 
 of the plain of Gennesaret; the flowers are in full bloom ; the birds are singing 
 
 on the edge of the lake; the sun is bright and glorious ; the morning is cool and delight- 
 
 ful; no epnagisie day could be imagined than the one on which we stood in the presence of 
 this traditional ruin, where possibly stood one of the cities where our Lord performed | so 
 many of His works. The same kind of weeds and thistles are found at Bethsaida 
 
 (TAbighah) as are found at Capernaum or Tell Hum. Both places are nearly on a ievel. 
 
 The woe of extinction pronounced upon Capernaum, Chorazin and Bethsaida has been 
 
 literally fulfilled 
 cities bear witn 
 
 as the ‘stones of emptiness’? that mark the sites of those ancient 
 They live only as their names are enshrined in the Gospels with the 
 name of Him who taught in their streets, healed their sick, and did many mighty works. 
 Bethsaida is known as the city of Philip and Andrew and Peter. Near by the five thousand 
 were fed. Still is there ‘‘much grass”? here. Near this Jesus healed a blind man. ‘This 
 little semi-circular plain, shut in by hills, river and lake, with great, restful, snow- 
 crowned Hermon towering in the background, was a place the Lord cared for and 
 often visited. This place is now only a name; but her silent, untrodden ways are 
 
 sacred because they were once trodden by the feet of Him who “went about doing 
 good.” 
 
 —2I5— 
 
OSQUE IN TIBERIAS.—From the Sea of Galilee, Jesus, ‘‘when the 
 time was come that he should be received up,’’ steadfastly set his face to go 
 to Jerusalem.—Ike ix: 51. From the city by the lake he journeyed to the 
 city along the hills of Judea. The northern portion of Tiberias, once the 
 
 Mohammedan quarter, is almost wholly in ruins, being overthrown by an earthquake in 
 
 1837. Here and there appears a solitary column, a half-buried arch, a gateless portal, or a 
 
 prostrate wall. The extensive ruins of the old castle are in this quarter. The inclosing 
 
 wall on the west of this ruin, with its two old towers, is best preserved. Near itis a 
 
 dilapidated mosque, with a few palms, which give it a picturesque appearance. 
 
 was taken at two o’clock p. m., May 8, 1894. Here we encounter building material of black 
 
 This view 
 
 basalt, which is used invariably beyond Jordan. It is interesting to notice the “ geological 
 configuration of the district, which is easily traced by a series of long ridges of basalt, 
 running from north to south, once liquid currents of yoleanic matter, which had overrun 
 the limestone hills, becoming smoother and slower in their course as they cooled, and 
 most of them exhausted before reaching the shores of the lake.” ' 
 whatever of the volcanic origin of the lake itself. 
 
 There is no indication 
 “The whole of the surrounding rocks 
 are sedimentary, occasionally overflowed by lava streams from the north and northeast, 
 which here and there have toppled over into the water.”’ The stones round the town and 
 in the ruins, walls and houses, as well as the cliffs behind, are mostly basalt. In the 
 distance we see the Gadarene hills beyond the lake. 
 
 —216— 
 
ALL OF TIBERIAS.—!1 this view we are looking toward the west. The 
 picture was taken on the 8th of May, 1894. This is one of the highest walls 
 remaining in Tiberias, and we see that it is rapidly crumbling. What man has 
 
 ing toruin. Nothing here indicates life and hope but nature, which 
 
 And all the memories of Jesus here give no hope for the race He 
 
 done 
 annually renews itself. ive 1 
 came to redeem. ‘Io stand upon the crumbling walls of Tiberias, which were once so 
 formidable, but which have for long centuries been in a sad state of dilapidation ; to close 
 one’s eyes upon the ancient ruins, “the relics of a brighter, happier day,” and go back 
 over the centuries to the time “when cities girdled all the smiling lake;”’ to recall the 
 days when it was the central point of the life and works of our Redeemer—all this is a 
 
 privilege the experience of which can not be described. 
 to paint 
 receding 
 rippling 
 
 Even a vivid imagination fails 
 The narrow strip of unfrequented beach, sometimes 
 field, sometimes contracting into a mere rugged path, the water 
 round the ruined battlements, ‘‘the pale blue lake in its more distant aspect,” 
 surface here and there gently stirred by some unseen gust from a mountain 
 gorge, or in crystal-like calmness mirroring the sea-birds which lazily flap their wings 
 over the lake or dip in the refreshing waters, make a picture of rare beauty. And 
 it is hard to realize that this little strip of country was the theater of such 
 great and far-reaching events as those we trace in the study of the life of the Man 
 of Galilee. 
 
 the charming picture. 
 
 into a sloping 
 
 —217— 
 
gs 
 
 Gi: 
 
 NAS 
 
 LL 
 
 CLES 
 Lf 
 
 LLLLEL LE, 
 i) 
 
 GE LLET OE 
 MELLEL 
 TLL 
 ZEEE WEE 
 
 Fe 
 
 lk 
 
 TIBERIAS. HOTEL 
 
 BY RE MBHIN. 
 
 TREET SCENES, TIBERIAS. —The modern Tiberias — Tubariyeh — 
 lies toward the north, close upon the water’s edge. N. B. Tristram, in his 
 “The houses of Tiberias are placed without order or 
 arrangement, as though they had been pitched down from a sand cloud, but for the 
 
 most part looked clean within.’’ Upon visiting the Jewish quarter on Friday evening, 
 when the Sabbath had begun, and the synagogue services were going on, he adds: ‘‘ The 
 houses, with their open doors, looked clean and bright inside for the Sabbath; the people 
 were well dressed in their best—the women somewhat like the Jewes of Algiers. The 
 men wore shabby broad-brimmed hats, and long silk dressing gowns, with a girdle.” 
 Tiberias is almost exclusively a Jewish town. ‘The streets are lined in some quarters with 
 
 s, the merchants making a fine display of their bright-colored fabrics 
 
 ® 
 
 “Travels in Palestine,” says: 
 
 booths and bazasz 
 
 and oriental wares. Fruit venders under their cau 
 
 in their respective markets, Je 
 
 canopies, fish and vegetable dealers 
 Moslems, Syrians and Europeans move in and out 
 among the booths, and business is carried on in a fashion that would amuse and interest 
 any European or American. The women, ‘with rich frocks and gold lace fronts, but 
 with elegant long sleeves, and a white kefiyeh ove: the head, were generally handsome, 
 and some of the girls were beautiful and fair.” ; 
 
 Upon overhanging balconies were groups 
 of happy children in quaint oriental costumes, while mingling with the crowd were the 
 more humble peasants, returning from the field, ‘almost wholly enveloped in enormous 
 faggots of tall thistle stems carefully collected for fuel—a most precious commodity in 
 these parts.’? The moving panorama, in all its detail, combines to make the business 
 street a center of interest to the visitor. 
 
 —218— 
 
"iia = 
 
 teenie... | 
 
 py 
 Ste Sn 
 
 a 
 
 HAB’S WELL IN JEZREEL.—tThe Son of Man is on his way to Jerusa- 
 lem. His final departure from Galilee is supposed to have been made in November 
 or December, A. D. 29. In going from the Sea of Galilee through Samaria into 
 Galilee he would needs pass again through Jezreel. He has other foes and more 
 
 bitter to face than were Ahab and Jezebel in the way of Elijah the Prophet. What thoughts 
 
 must have come to him, familiar as he was with the Old Testament history, as he passed 
 the various places made sacred or memorable by the events of the Old Testament! We 
 
 have here a picture of what our dragoman called ‘‘Ahab’s Well.”’ It is at the bottom of a 
 
 hill to the north of Jezreel. The view was secured by our artist on the morning of the 6th 
 
 (O 
 
 of May, 1894. In it we are looking toward the west. Under this very sky Ahab, probably 
 the most wicked of the Israelitish monarchs, dwelt and flaunted his wickedness before the 
 Lord. For several centuries the very site of this city was in doubt, until Turner, Bucking- 
 ham and other travelers have identified it with the Arab village Zer’ain. As Tristram says: 
 “No destruction has been more complete and utter, even in this land of ruins, than at 
 Jezreel.” From this as a center one looks out upon many historical places. One recalls 
 the days of the Judges, of Gideon, of Saul, the King of Naboth and his sons, and of Elijah. 
 Jezreel is now so completely desolated that a single broken wall is all that remains as a 
 landmark to indicate where it once stood. 
 
 —=219— 
 
RIDGE OVER THE JORDAN.~—Jesus on his way southward was rejected 
 by the Samaritans, and it is supposed that.He and hisxcompany turned eastward 
 and passed over the Jordan and through Bethshean and then turned southward, 
 
 passing down on the eastern side of the sacred river. It was during this time while in 
 
 Perzea that Jesus sent forth the seventy.—Luke, x: 1-16. During his journey he gave the 
 
 parable of the good Samaritan—Luke, x: 25-37; taught the disciples how to pray—Luke, 
 
 xi:1-13; healed a man blind, dumb and possessed—Matthew, xii: 22-23; Luke, xi: 14; pro- 
 
 nounced woe upon the Pharisees—Luke, xi: 37-44; gave the parable of the rich fool—Luke, 
 
 xii: 13-21; gave the parable of the barren fig tree—luke, xiii: 6-9; healed an infirm woman 
 
 upon the Sabbath—Luke, xiii: 10-17; gave the parable of the mustard seed and the leaven 
 
 fee k= 
 ee St 7 
 ay es 
 
 ae a 
 
 —Inke, xiii: 18-21; goes on teaching and journeying toward Jerusalem,and is warned 
 against Herod. We have in the above picture a representation of a bridge over the Jordan. 
 This is a modern bridge, and not very permanent. This is not one of the pictures of our 
 artist, but was secured for the writer by our American consul at Jerusalem. Till the 
 Romans came there were no bridges in Palestine.  ‘‘ Like the name for fort, the name for 
 bridge does not occur in the Old Testament, probably because the thing itself was 
 unknown.” But two ancient bridges span the River Jordan. The one Jisr Benat Yacob— 
 the bridge of Jacob’s daughter. The Jisr el-Magamia is the one over the Jordan south of 
 Lake Tiberias. It is built of trap rock and has one grand central arch with three small 
 ones, and beneath them rushes the Jordan on its hurried passage to the Dead Sea. 
 
 —-220— 
 
ROSSING THE JORDAN.—In passing from Persea on the east of the 
 Jordan to Jerusalem Jesus crossed the Jordan. We do not know what his route 
 was, but he probably went as far south as to a point opposite Jericho, because from 
 
 the ford over against Jericho there is a road to Bethany and Jerusalem. There are 
 
 but two old bridges spanning the Jordan. Dangerous as the river is, it offers an extraor- 
 dinary number of fords. Dr. George Adam Smith describes the Jordan as a ‘‘ rapid, muddy 
 water with a zigzag current, and the depth varies from three to ten or twelve feet in the 
 sixty-five miles of descent. The descent is six hundred and ten feet from the Sea of Galilee. 
 
 ‘The descent is sometimes over forty feet a mile, and the impetus given to a large volume 
 
 of water down a channel in which it can not sprawl induces a great rapidity of current. 
 
 “This has given to the river its name. Jordan means ‘down-comer.’”’ 
 
 “Like an arrow from a quiver, 
 
 ‘To the sad and lone Dead Sea 
 
 Thou art rushing, rapid river, 
 
 Swift and strong and silently.” 
 To cross a ford of the Jordan is a common occurrence still. Dr. Thomson says: ‘‘ What 
 a strange and treacherous condition of things!’ speaking of the ford in front of his 
 camp. ‘Just there it is broad and not more than four feet deep, so that the villagers 
 were continually fording it; men, women, children, returning home from their fields 
 to the east of the Jordan; a rural scene curious as rare. Sheep, goats and even don- 
 keys had to swim, and it required the constant care of the shepherds to prevent 
 their being carried down the stream together. Cattle and horses came boldly across 
 and so did the men, but the women and children needed the help of the men, 
 who brought them safe to shore.” The above view is not one of our own 
 artist’s pictures, but is used to give a scene on the Jordan different from any 
 he obtained. 
 
 —221— 
 
have approached the Judean moumtains nearmthe scene giverfabove. We have here 
 another and more general view of the fine aqueduct before illustrated. This view 
 was taken on the 25th of April, 1894. We had just descended the Judean moun- 
 tains and were about entering Jericho when we were arrested by the sight of this specimen 
 of perfect masonry in the midst of the old landscape of the Jordan valley. We are here 
 looking toward the east. The mountains in the distance are the mountains of Moab. On 
 the western side of the Jordan the road from Jerusalem to Jericho becomes a true via 
 dolorosa as the traveler descends between the walls of rock that grow higher, ravines that 
 become frightful, and narrow passes that are less passable as he proceeds. Here for two 
 
 i OF JERICHO.—If Christ crossed the Jordan opposite Jericho he must 
 
 thousand years or more-travelers and pilgrimsshave been set upon, robbed and murdered by 
 the dark banditti that seem as far from civilization nowas inthe days of Ishmael. Ancient 
 Jericho lay by the springs at the foot of the hill Karantel. Since the day it fell before the 
 faith of the Israelites it has been an easy prey to many conquerors. During the Roman 
 period Antony presented the district to Cleopatra, who afterwards sold it to Herod, who 
 built a palace among its wonderful gardens and made it his winter residence. ‘The climate 
 is semi-tropical. Jericho was not only ‘‘the city of palm trees,”’ but a garden of rare plants 
 and trees. Modern Jericho is a collection of low hovels —forty or fifty—inhabited by a 
 degenerate class. There is a small Greek church here and a tower dating from the 
 fifteenth century, marking, as it is claimed, the house of Zaccheus. 
 
 222 
 
OS 2 = es 
 
 Jerusalem to Jericho finds the words of our Lord again and again recurring to his 
 mind: “A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho and fell among thieves.”’ 
 One passes, in going eastward, directly between rugged hills, “sad and silent heights ” 
 of white rock now and then relieved by a curious rose-colored stratum with stripes of green 
 on the terraces where shepherds watched their flocks of sheep and goats. Jericho lies 
 thirty-six hundred feet below Jerusalem, so that the eastward journey isa literal ‘going down 
 to Jericho.”’ ‘The sudden appearance of the head or spear of a Bedouin above a pile of 
 rock or the unsuspected encounter with a group of horsemen reminds one of the man of the 
 parable “‘ who fell among thieves.’ The Jericho road has been the dread of travelers for 
 
 twenty aorteates because of the lawless Arabs that infest these hills, making their strong- 
 
 pie OF THE GOOD SAMARITAN.—Whoeever makes the journey from 
 
 holds, as David was obliged to do, in the caves of the rocks high above the reach of pur- 
 suers. In these very defiles Sir Frederick Henneker was robbed, and that as late as 1820. 
 A friend’ of one of the editors had the same experience in 1860. The khan of the Good 
 Samaritan is not farfrom Jericho. It is a large shed with a courtyard at the back upon 
 foundations much more ancient than the present structure. A Roman watch tower on an 
 overlooking point near by gives a view of the approaches in all directions. All around is 
 desolation without an inhabitant, but here one can find refreshment. Marion Harland 
 says: ‘‘ We were surprised to learn that the parable of the good Samaritan is here consid- 
 ered a real incident as historic as the fall of the tower of Siloam.’ The site of this inn is 
 very old, and has probably borne for hundreds of years the name “‘ of Him who showed 
 mercy to a feudal foe.”” e 
 
 —223— 
 
nd 
 
 ETHAN Y.—0n the eastern side of the Mount-of-Olives, and but a half an hour’s 
 walk from Jerusalem, is the town of Bethany —the house of dates— so called be- 
 
 * cause of the tall‘date palm-trees which once grew among the little white dwellings. 
 
 The Arabic name is El-Azariveh —the place of Lazarus. The palms are all gone 
 
 now. It is now and always has been a poor, small mountain hamlet with nothing to charm 
 except its seclusion and nothing to interest the Christian world save its associations. Itis 
 made sacred as the place where our Redeemer rested and prayed, and where no noisy crowd 
 broke in upon His meditations. Lazarus, probably a rich man, lived there with his two 
 sisters, Mary and Martha. Jesus was invited to abide with them on one occasion, and 
 always afterwards on his visits to Jerusalem made a home at the vineclad cottage of Laz- 
 
 arus. ‘There,’ says Porter, ‘‘no sound of the busy world followed him in the quiet home 
 
 of Martha, and in some lonely recess of Bethany’s secluded dell he rested and prayed.” It 
 
 was here that Mary sat at the feet of Jesus. - It was here-that Martha, tired of ‘‘ much serv- 
 ing,’’ said, ‘‘ Master, dost thou not*care that‘my'sister leaveth me to*work alone?’ It was 
 then that Jesus warned Martha against undue anxiety, and exalted Mary’s choice of the 
 good part never to be taken from her. It was here that Martha met Jesus when he came at 
 the time of the death of Lazarus and where the great miracle was wrought. 
 “They led him to the cave — 
 The rocky bed where now in darkness slept 
 Their brother and his friend —then at the grave 
 They paused, for Jesus wept ; 
 And there he cried, Come forth! and Lazarus lived again.” 
 
 —224— 
 
—VW~\OUNT OF OLIVES FROM ZION’S GATE.—Atter spending a 
 
 a time with Mary and Martha in Bethany our Lord passed over to Jerusalem to 
 
 the feast of the dedication, some time between December 20 and 27, A. D. 29. 
 
 In passing from Bethany over to Jerusalem He would go by the Mount of Olives. 
 ‘This view of the Mount of Olives, taken April 24, 1894, is from the Zion Gate, which is 
 now called Bab en-Neby Datid, from its proximity to David’s tomb. It has a massive door 
 with two wings mounted with iron. On the top of the battlements above, one has a fine 
 view of the Mount of Olives and the hills beyond. ‘‘It is enough for the traveler,” says a 
 distinguished writer, ‘in drawing near to the Holy City to see ‘gray Olivet’ and to think 
 over its wondrous story.’’ Upon its sloping sides Jesus spoke to his disciples the word of 
 
 life, foretold the destruction of Jerusalem, and announced His own death on the cross. 
 Olivet was a favorite resort with Him. St. Luke says: ‘(In the daytime He was teaching 
 in the temple, and at night He went out and abode in the Mount of Olives.’”’ At its base 
 He was betrayed; and here, too, was ‘‘doleful, dark Gethsemane.”” The lofty tower and 
 other buildings which are shown in the picture above are sacred edifices which commem- 
 orate the events connected with the mountain. We can distinctly trace the path up over 
 the mountain to the right of the picture —the path which leads to Bethany. The cluster 
 of buildings on the summit of Olivet are gleaming white and the tall tower belongs to the 
 Russian church. ‘The gray terraced slopes, the gray limestone crags, are still as they were 
 in our Lord’s day, and the gray, dusky olives are the prevailing gray of the mount. 
 
 —225— 
 
of the picture is the reputed tomb of St. James. It is opposite the southeast angle 
 
 of the temple ground. It is an excavated chamber in the rock. The porch in 
 
 front is eighteen feet wide by nine feet deep. On the south side is an excavated 
 passage leading to the tomb of Zachariah, which is the cubical structure to the right of 
 the picture. It is cut out of solid rock. It is seventeen feet on each side and twenty-nine 
 feet in height, This is supposed to be the tomb of Zachariah spoken of by our Savior, 
 but the Jews claim that it is the tomb of Zechariah who was stoned in the reign of Joash— 
 II. Chronicles, xxiv: 20-22. The most picturesque group of sepulchres around the holy 
 city, which is a city of tombs, is that in the Valley of Kedron. The entire face of Olivet 
 above the tombs of Zachariah and St. James is crowded with graves of Jews, and in the 
 Valley of Hinnom are sepulchres without number. 
 
 G este OF ZACHARIAH AND ST. JAMES.—The tomb to the left 
 
 “The ground, 
 League beyond league, like one great cemetery, 
 Is covered o’er with moldering monuments ; 
 And let the living wander where they will, 
 They can not leave the footsteps of the dead.” 
 The city of Jerusalem is a city of graves. It is itself a vast sepulchre. 
 “Lost Salem of the Jews, great sepulchre 
 Of all profane, and of all holy things.” 
 
 $ that ‘‘there is no evidence to connect this monument called the tomb 
 , 
 
 Dr. Porter say: 
 of Zachariah with any Old Testament worthy.’ 
 and no entrance whatever is discoverable. 
 
 The whole monument is apparently solid, 
 
 —226— 
 
) COOL OF SILOAM.— 
 
 “That pool where He 
 
 Doth wet His foot is Siloam; above 
 
 Its bottom lies, far in the mountain’s breast, 
 
 Its springs of silver make their nest.’’—JosEPpH BEAUMONT. 
 
 The Pool of Siloam was deemed sacred in consequence of the miracle recorded by St. 
 John. ‘Without question,’”’ says Dr. Thomson, ‘‘it is the Pool of Siloam to which the 
 man born blind was sent by our Lord to wash that he might receive his sight,’’ and adds: 
 “here is nothing picturesque about it, certainly. The crumbling walls, and fallen 
 columns in and around it, give it an air of neglect.’’ It is a parallelogram about fifty-three 
 feet long and eighteen feet wide. The water flows in from the Fountain of the Virgin by 
 a narrow subterraneous channel. Dr. ‘Thomson says he has seen this pool nearly full, 
 but that now the water merely passes through it. Rev. H. B. Hackett writes of its outflow : 
 
 “A streamlet murmurs gently along sparkling in the sunbeams.’’ This is the rill which 
 Milton has made so familiar to us as 
 ——“‘Siloah’s brook, that flowed 
 
 Fast by the oracles of God.” 
 
 Isaiah speaks of the ‘‘ waters of Siloah that go softly.” The name Siloam, according 
 to Gesenius, signifies ‘‘sent,’’ with the meaning of artificial direction through an aqueduct. 
 In the Old Testament Siloam is called a pool, but by Josephus a fountain. The waters of 
 Siloam are said to have been sweet. William of Tyre, in the twelfth century, says that 
 they were unsavory. At the present time they are brackish. The reason of the change, 
 says Major Conder, appears to be that the main drain of Jerusalem now leads out into the 
 Tyropceon immediately above the pool. Siloam is a remitting fountain, being suddenly 
 augmented at irregular intervals. ‘‘The intermittent flow is supposed to be due to a 
 natural syphon, but the natives’ explanation is that a dragon lives below and swallows 
 the water when he is awake, but that when he sleeps it wells up freely.’’—Major Conder. 
 
 —227— 
 
HE DEAD SEA.— When Jesus at one time during his latter days left Jerusa- to keep one’s feet under water. ‘The taste of the water is as pungent as a though 
 
 Jem at the feast of the dedication because the Jews attempted to stone Him, itis it is as clear and as bright as any body of water. You see our old sheik standing 
 
 said that He went away again beyond the Jordan into the place where John had on the shore with his gun. He is on guard. He accompanied us during our 
 
 first baptized, and there he abode. The view above is taken from a point about entire Jericho trip. We left this point at seven o’clock and slowly made our way 
 
 four miles south of the traditional place of John’s baptizing. One morning at six o'clock up to the place of baptism, above where the Jordan empties into the Dead Sea. 
 
 (on the 26th of April, 1894) the artist and one of the editors saw the sun rise overthe We are now looking toward the northwest. One thing surprised us sas we came 
 
 mountains of Moab and bathe the whole plain of the Jordan, as well as the Judean from Jericho to this body of water. When we first came in sight of the sea 
 
 mountains, in a deep red, glowing, liquid fire. We were about ten miles from Jericho. it seemed to be about a quarter of a mile from us, but we found that it 
 
 Our party took a bath at this point to test the truth of the oft made statement that one was really four miles. You see an old boat lying upon the shore in the pic- 
 could not sink in the Dead Sea. We found it to be literally true. It is almost impossible ture. 
 
 — 228— 
 
pUe Io}SIS Joy pur vy, podoy snsef MoN ‘Aqarey} peylqoys oq yysrur 
 
 poy JO WO oy} yey} ‘poy jo Axops ay} Joy nq ‘Y}eep Oz Jou st ssou 
 -YOIs SIL, ‘pres oH Jey} prvey snsof[ wayA\ ‘Bors SI SAO] Noy], wor 
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 yoq Avur Aaq} yey} WI pres [ Aq pueys PA psO’T oy} poz! AL OY} { pear, vayey pue Arey pue 
 ‘soo10A INO JO PUNOS dU} UIGIIA ‘o1oy SPA 71 FEY} PSN} 917} 
 YJautos st oroyy, “AvMe rey AIA jou St quio} oy} 
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 2 yoo} Kay} usyM puy ‘sryorndes oy} pasovs st yy *Armosvm qyM petty ATred puv yor a1} Jo jo yO 
 
 pasos TOM 9 SUIpUL}s ust ay} papurmmos  Ayyred st qmozoy], “worTpes, v ynq Suryjou ‘asinod jo ‘s13zT “Sut 
 
 Uv JJPSUITFT UT pouvors ay jey} oA E Mt pues ‘Aueyjeg peyovor  -mado ayy} 9a: 
 snsof o10jaq snieze’y Jo [elinq oy} Jaye sXep anof sem 4] 
 
 my PTY 
 e yA ynoc 
 
 tit asoo’y ‘tmey} oyON Yes snsof 
 punoq SPA aoRF SIY pue :say}O[IBAvIS 
 ma 
 
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 yM o[doad ay} Jo asnesaq ynq : sXvMyv oI JSoIvOTY NOT, yey} MTA J snieze’y 4 
 pay ‘oI 
 -UWIOUT VY} ayo a sty dn poyiyt snsaf ‘prey 
 sovjd oy} Wo ot 
 
 1B OM 
 
 Ss oy} AvmMe 
 
 Jal] AM YOM 0} oryoyndas ay} UL JUaASD payerqeyeo 
 
 24} S9yVooT UOINpPIL—"SNUVZVI AO AWO 
 
 <CSTIVZBT == ST}. JO 9}T 
 
ini 
 
 performed in raising Lazarus from the dead, it is said that ‘‘ many of the Jews 
 which came to Mary, and had seen the things which Jesus did, believed on Him. 
 But some of them went their ways to the Pharisees, and told them what Jesus had 
 done. * * * ‘Then from that day forth they took counsel together for to put Him to 
 death. Jesus, therefore, walked no more openly among the Jews; but went thence into a 
 s, into a city called Ephraim, and there conti nued with His 
 disciples.”” Ephraim was a of Israel which Judah captured from Jeroboam. It has 
 been thought that this Ephraim is identical with the Ephraim by which Absalom’s sheep 
 farm, Beth-zur, was situated, and that this is a city near to Bethel. Nothing more than 
 
 ©" R TENT NEAR BETHEL. — Atter seeing the miracle which our Lord 
 
 country near to the wildern 
 
 conjecture can be artived at as to the real site of Ephraim where our Savior retired with 
 His disciples. Bethel, where our lunch tent was pitched on the 2nd of May, 1894, is 
 thought to be not far from Ephraim where our Savior retired. In modern towns throughout 
 Palestine a lunch tent is usually furnished to travelers to rest under at noon. The sun- 
 shine is generally very warm, or the wind is blowing very hard, and the tent is a great con- 
 venience. Horseback riding in Palestine is very tiresome, and after a tedious ride of four 
 or five hours travelers are greatly refreshed by an hour’s sleep, so that the dragoman keeps 
 one of the muleteers along with the tourists, who carries the lunch tent, pillows, rugs, etc., 
 and as soon as the party stops this tent is pitched, rugs are placed on the ground with pil- 
 lows for each traveler, then, while the dragoman makes the coffee, the tourists go to sleep. 
 
 —230— 
 
LAIN OF JERICHO. -— Between February and March, A. D. 30, Christ Here He healed a blind man.—Matthew, xx : 29-34; Mark, x: 46-52; Luke, xviii: 35-43. 
 © appears to have left Ephraim and gone jnto the borders of Samaria, where ten While at Jericho, Zaccheus received Jesus into his house.—Luke, xix:1-10, And while at 
 From thence He went again into Pereea; Jericho He gave the parable of the pounds.—lLuke, xix: 11-28. This picture is taken at the 
 :20-37. And gave foot of the Judean hills, and we see Jericho to the left, and the plain of the Jordan between 
 us and the mountains of Moab. Wegeta perspective, perhaps, from where we stand to the 
 five or thirty miles. The country we seeis 
 
 lepers were cleansed._Luke, xvii: II-19. 
 
 He spake of the coming of the kingdom of God.—Luke, 
 parables of the unjust judge, the Pharisee and publican.—Luke, xviii: 1-14. He also gave ans | 
 precepts concerning divorce.—Matthew, x 12; Mark, x:2-10. While here, He top of the mountains in the distance, of twenty: 
 little children.—Matthew, xix : 13-15 ; Mark, x: 13-16: Luke, xviii: the most fertile in Palestine, and under proper cultivation and irrigation would produce 
 <:16-30; Mark, x:17-31; Luke, perhaps enough to feed the entire population in modern Palestine. There is no 
 2yard.—Matthew, x:1-16. hope for this land while the Turkish government puts a tax upon every tree 
 from the time of its planting; while the Arab and the camel desolate the 
 field, and ignorance and superstition reign. Palestine needs a Christian civili- 
 
 receives and bl 
 e He meets the rich young man.— Matthew, x 
 He also gave the parable of the labor in the vin 
 
 34; Luke, xviii: 31-34. 
 
 zation. 
 
the feast, when they heard that Jesus was coming to Jerusalem, took branches of 
 
 palm trees, and went forth to meet Him, and cried, Hocanna, blessed is the King 
 
 of Israel that cometh in the name of the Lord. And Jesus 
 young ass, sat thereon; as it is written, Fear not, daughter of Zion; behold, thy King 
 cometh, sitting on an ass’s colt.”—John, xii: 12-15. “ And a very great multitude spread 
 their garments in the way ; others cut down branches from the trees, and strewed them in 
 the way. And the multitudes that went before, and that followed, cried, saying, Hosanna 
 to the Son of David; blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord. Hosanna in the 
 highest. And when He was come into Jerusalem, all the city was moved, saying, Who is 
 this? And the multitude said, This is Jesus the prophet of Nazareth of Galilee. —Matthew, 
 “ And many spread their garments in the way : and others cut down branches 
 
 © * GOLDEN GATE.—“0n the next day, much people that were come to 
 
 , when he had found a 
 
 xxi: 8-11. 
 
 off the trees, and strewed them in the way. 
 
 And they that went before, and they that 
 followed, cried, saying, Hosanna ; blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord. 
 Blessed be the kingdom of our father, David, that cometh in the name of our Lord, 
 Hosanna in the highest.”.—Mark, xi:8-10. We give here a picture of the Golden Gate, 
 because this is supposed to be the gate through which Christ entered Jerusalem. 
 This is called in Arabic Bab el-Tabeyeh, the Gate of Repentance. It isin the east wall, 
 and is in the center of a ptojection fifty-five feet long and five feet wide. The gate is 
 double, and has semicircular arches ; the entablature is sustained by Corinthian capitals, 
 and is bent around the arch. ‘The gate is now walied up, and the Moslems believe that 
 they will retain possession of Jerusalem until some conqueror shall remove the obstruction 
 from this gate and enter through the same into the city, hence this place is jealou: 
 guarded. 
 
 Se 
 
HE SITE OF THE TEMPLE.—We have here the best general view of 
 © the temple plateau that it has ever been our privilege to see and study. It was not 
 taken by the artist of this expedition, but furnished to one of our editors by the 
 American consul in Jerusalem. It was taken from a housetop in the neighborhood. 
 and we get nothing except a comprehensive view of the temple site with the mountains 
 round about Jerusalem. We see in the picture the mosque of Omar, and beyond us to the 
 southwest, with its smaller dome, the mosque El-Aksa. We see little prayer niches and 
 recesses, walls, stairways, trees casting their dark shadows, the smaller domes and the 
 distant hills. We are able to form a very satisfactory idea of the area on which stood 
 the tempie of Solomon a thousand years ‘before Christ, and on which stood the 
 
 temple of Herod, into which our Savior entered at the time of the royal reception 
 which they gave Him. What memories crowd upon usas we look at these sacred precincts ! 
 It was here, no doubt, that Abraham himself offered Isaac ; and as we look upon the scene 
 the memory of illustrious names of Jewish and of Christian history are recalled. One of 
 the editors visited this temple area in 1863, when it was much more difficult than now to 
 gain access, and when the Moslems employed to guard the place were much more sensitive 
 than in these days. We trod carefully through all the courts and came to the very rock 
 itself under that splendid dome. In 1887 we arranged our visit with a larger company, 
 and found the old Mohammedan who guided us from place to place full of good 
 cheer and merriment, and we found no frown of disapproval on any face within the wall. 
 
 —233— 
 
HE ROCK IN THE TEMPLE.—We present to our readers a rare view 
 © furnished also by our American consul at Jerusalem. We see as perfect a photo- 
 graph as can be secured of the rock itself over which the dome of Omar rises. The 
 
 inside of the mosque is so dark that it requires the light a long time to place the 
 image of the object before the camera upon the plate. The impression from which this 
 picture is printed required three or four hours. Such a picture we could not have possibly 
 secured, for when we were in the holy city the mosque of Omar was filled with visitors 
 This is the most historic rock in the world. It is the sphinx of the 
 aunah where David built an altar ; the spot on which 
 at altar of the temple; and thus thrice an histor- 
 
 nearly all the time. 
 Holy Land; the threshing floor of Ar 
 Abraham offered Isaac ; the site of the grea 
 
 ical and sacred place. It was evidently known as a holy place in the days of the Emperor 
 Constantine. But the true history of the rock is lost under a mass of Moslem traditions. 
 It rises from the tesselated pavement a point of virgin rock that has remained the same for 
 thirty centuries carefully guarded by all schools of religious faith. It is believed by some 
 scholars that the subterranean passages branching out from the cave beneath the rock 
 were the outlets for the blood of the sacrifices here offered. There is no proof that 
 this was the cave leading to the canal that connected the Fountain of the Virgin below the 
 rock Ophel with the Pool of Siloam. ‘The cave which the visitor may enter is a natural 
 one, and evidently has not been enlarged. In the center of it isa marble slab that covers 
 the mouth of the well. 
 
view was taken by our artist after his return from Jericho on Friday, April 26, 1894. 
 
 We have left Bethany. 
 
 Holy City before us. 
 Olivet. After the triumphal entry into Jerusalem and his visit to the temple Jes 
 
 6 « MOUNT OF OLIVES FROM THE JERICHO ROAD.—This 
 
 We shall soon turn around the brow of Olivet and see the 
 The lofty dome of the Russian church crowns the summit of 
 s returned 
 to Bethany. ‘The next morning as He went into the city again He pronounced a ban upon 
 the fig tree, and it withered. Having cleansed the temple, He returned to Bethany. ‘This, 
 if our chronology be correct, was on Friday, March 31, A. D. 30. On Saturday, the 1st of 
 April, He was annointed by Mary ; on Sunday, April 2d, He entered triumphantly into Jeru- 
 
 salem, visited the temple and returned to Bethany. It was on Monday, April 3d, that the 
 barren fig tree was cursed and the temple cleansed, and on Friday, April 4th, that the fig 
 tree was found withered on the Mount of Olives. Jet us move on toward the Holy City. 
 Cities may be laid in ruins, but the mountains stand fast forever. Olivet, with its chalky 
 rocks and dotted with olive trees, stands unchanged. The same beautiful view greets the 
 eye of the modern traveler as he rounds the shoulder of Olivet. ‘The supreme interest of 
 the road from Jericho is that it was trod by our blessed Lord when He came up to Jerusalem 
 for the last time, passing the Mount of Olives, at the base of which He was to bow in 
 anguish, and from whose eastern slope He was to ascend to heaven. 
 
 —235— 
 
ARAM ESH-SHERIF.—I» this picture we have a view of the entrance to 
 the Haram esh-Sherif, It is one of the many pictures of the temple plateau and 
 its buildings which we have given. This great area was, in a sense, at the very 
 
 * heart of the Jewish national life. Here were foregleams through all the centuries 
 of the light that did shine in this sacred place when Jesus, the Light of the World, 
 appeared to the people of Jerusalem. It was on Tuesday, April 4th, that Christ’s authority 
 was questioned in the temple. On the same day He gave the parable of the two sons, and 
 of the wicked husbandman and the marriage of the king’s son. It was at this time that 
 the Pharisees questioned Jesus about tribute, and the Sadducees about the resurrection, and 
 a lawyer about the great commandment. The first among the buildings of Jerusalem for 
 
 k : ete One of Captain Warren’s most inter- 
 esting discoveries is to prove that the eastern wall of the present Haram area is part of the 
 
 extent, splendor and sacred interest was the temple. 
 
 foundation laid by King Solomon. The present Mosque of Omar dignifies this important 
 situation by its beauty and magnificence. ‘Twenty-seven times has it been besieged, but 
 for the last eleven hundred years it has been in the hands of fanatical Moslems. The 
 Christian world hopes for its resurrection. One writer says: ‘‘ Mohammedan power is fast 
 passing away; the Turkish Empire is hastening to its fall,’ and after that the eman- 
 cipation of the Haram will not be very difficult. ‘This holy city and this sacred area will 
 come under other rulers, and its mysteries will then be laid open for the inspection of 
 mankind 
 
 —236— 
 
OOL OF HEZEKIAH.—Within the heart of the city is a large pool on the 
 west side of Christian street. It is called the Pool of Hezekiah, and is mentioned 
 in II. Kings, xx : 22, and also in II. Chronicles, xxxii: 30. The pool is two hundred 
 and forty feet long by one hundred and forty feet wide. The bottom is of the nat- 
 
 ural rock, leveled and laid in cement. It is supplied with water through a small aqueduct 
 
 from Berkit Maimilla. Before the Ophel spur had been inclosed the spring of En Rogel 
 was left four hundred yards outside of the city wall. In the time of Hezekiah, however, 
 
 about fifty rs after the Ophel wall had been commenced, it was determined to form a 
 
 communication from the city to the spring, and to close up the outlet of the latter so as to 
 
 “| 
 
 prevent its being used by an enemy from without. A high authority affirms that the 
 towers and fortifications of Jerusalem, the supply of water to the towns, both by aqueduct 
 from without and by a reservoir hewn out from the solid tock, were for centuries connected 
 with the name of Hezekiah. We read from IT. Kings that Hezekiah made a pool and the 
 conduit and brought water into the city, and that he also stopped the upper watercourse 
 of the Gihon and brought it straight down to the west side of the City of David. Dr. 
 Thomson says: ‘‘The water which fills the pool is still brought by an underground con- 
 duit from what is supposed to be the Upper Gihon,” and adds: 
 remarkable work, in good preservation and in constant use.” 
 
 “The present pool is a 
 
n the fact that the 
 ohn, 
 
 s sought Jesus, and He delivered his discour: 
 
 d up 
 come in which the Son of Man should be fi 
 
 orifiec 
 
 hour wai 
 He went up to the Mount of Olives and delivered his discourse concerning the 
 
 overthrow of the temple and the end of the world. It was while on the Mount of Olives 
 that He gave the parables of the ten virgins and of the talents. The view which we present 
 ents the vaults under the temple area. They are called Solomon’s 
 The first distinct account of these ste given by 
 
 r mentions them as capable of holding two thousand 
 
 page repres 
 Just wh 
 
 I ght feet below the level of the pavement above 
 The semicircul n feet five inches in span and five feet nine inches in 
 height. The aisl pen from the south to the north. While the s are not supposed 
 to date earlier than the Byzantine period, the stones of which they are constructed evi- 
 dently belonged to buildin far back as He 
 Solomon. Many Jews sought refuge in these subterranean vaul 
 against the R uiiey d by the Crusaders. 
 Solomon’s intercourse with E; stablishment and 
 cavalry into the army. For the first time the streets of Jerusalem heard the constant 
 rattle of chariot wh 
 
 during the 
 g 
 
finished all these sayings, He said unto his disciples, Ye know that after two days 
 Then 
 
 G HE MOUNT OF OFFENSE.,— ‘And it came to pass, when Jesus had 
 
 is the feast of the passover, and the Son of Man is betrayed to be crucified. 
 
 assembled together the chief priests, and the scribes, and the elders of the people, 
 unto the palace of the high priest, who was called Caiaphas, and consulted that they 
 might take Jesus by subtilty and kill him.’’—Matthew, xxvi: 1-4. It was then that Judas 
 Iscariot covenanted with them and promised for thirty pieces of silver to betray his Lord. 
 The house of Caiaphas, where Judas Iscariot sought the chief priests and scribes and 
 negotiated with them, is thought to have been on the top of the Hill of Evil Counsel, 
 
 south of the Valley of Hinnom. East of this Hill of Evil Counsel and south of the Mount 
 of Olives is the Mount of Offense, a picture of which we give above. As the road from 
 Bethany winds over the s!oping shoulder of Olivet there is a steep declivity below on the 
 left of the Mount of Offense, with fig trees below and above. At the highest point of the 
 ridge the first view is ht of the southeastern corner of the city. Still further cn, the 
 whole city bursts into view. It is hardly possible to doubt that this rise and turn of the 
 road, this rocky ledge, was the exact spot where the multitude paused again and He, when 
 He beheld the city, wept over it. But what a contrast between the tears of Jesus and the 
 tears of Judas! between the death of the Messiah and the death of the malefactor! 
 
 —240— 
 
artist on the 24th of April, 1894, is on the south brow of the hill outside of the 
 supposed that David and other kings of Judah were buried, 
 says was the ‘‘upper chamber’’ where 
 
 Own OF DAVID. —The tomb of David, a picture of which was taken by our 
 
 Zion Gate. Here iti 
 
 and here is the Ccenaculum which tradition s 
 the Lord’s supper was held, and where the disciples gathered on the day of Pentecost. 
 This tradition is more respectable than many of the traditions in Jerusalem. It dates back 
 to the fourth century. Jews, Christians and Moslems have for many centuries united in 
 agreeing that this site is genuine, and it is said that the Jews are often seen near to the 
 building reverently and with tears looking toward it—not, indeed, for its Pentecostal 
 memories, but because they believe that here their royal David was entombed. Josephus 
 
 tells us that Hyrcanus took from Dayid’s tomb three thousand talents, and when Herod 
 the Great attempted to plunder the royal tombs he found to his disappointment that they 
 had already been robbed. Conder thinks that David and his posterity were buried in the 
 rock tombs west of the tomb of Christ in the Holy Sepulchre. This is a very attenuated 
 bit of imagination. The daughter of Dr. Barclay had the rare privilege of being secretly 
 introduced into the traditional tomb of Dayid on Mount Zion by a Moslem lady. 
 Her description of it is very interesting. We have not the space to give it -here. 
 It is not absolutely certain that Miss Barclay saw the real tomb, but it is 
 not unlikely that the tomb of David exists as it was well known in the time 
 of Christ. 
 
 oA 
 
HURCH OF THE HOLY TABLE, NAZARETH.—The scenes con- 
 nected with the closing events of Christ’s earthly life arelimited to the city of 
 Jerusalem. We allow our artist to transport us fora moment to Nazareth, where 
 there is a fanciful tradition which makes the rock visible in the picture the place 
 
 where Christ and his disciples often ate together. Itis found in the interior of the Church 
 of the Holy Table in Nazareth. The rock is about three feet high, ten feet long, and three 
 feet wide. We are standing in front of the church and are looking toward the altar. The 
 picture was taken by our artist on the 7th of May, 1894, at two o’clock in the afternoon. The 
 church is one of the best kept and most pleasant in the city of Nazareth. There is a 
 
 GOPY RIGHT Jey REM BAN. 
 
 tradition that our Lord and his disciples often dined upon this rock both before and after 
 his resurrection. The tradition, however, is not traceable further back than the seven- 
 teenth century. The chapel itself was built in 1861 and belongstothe Latins. Thereis an 
 altar behind the table with inscriptions in Latin, Italian and Arabic, with candles and 
 decorations after the manner of the Roman shrines ; but the pilgrim turns from these tothe 
 open air and to the hills over which the holy child wandered with his mother nearly two 
 thousand years ago. Whatever faith one may place in traditions of localities and “‘things ” 
 connected with the life of Jesus, we may have assurance touching the landscape on which 
 his holy eyes feasted as he walked hither and thither in Galilee. 
 
corvman Taps 
 
 this Garden of Gethsemane, in the Valley of Kedron, has been fixed by the devout 
 as the place of the prayer of our Savior at the time of his ‘‘agony’’ just before his 
 death. John says: ‘‘Jesus went forth with his disciples over the brook Kedron, 
 where was a garden into which He entered with his disciples.” Mark says: ‘And they 
 came to the place which was named Gethsemane, and He said to his disciples, Sit ye here 
 while I shall pray.” Since the days of the visit of the Empress Helena to Jerusalem, in 
 the fourth century, this garden has been identified by tradition. The Valley of Kedron 
 (Jehoshaphat) is here deep and narrow, and Gethsemane occupies about an acre of ground, 
 to the north of which are rugged and barren heights in which the kings of Jerusale:n are 
 
 © GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE.—For nearly sixteen hundred years 
 ( 
 
 buried. To the west are the massive walls of Jerusalem. ‘To the east, and rising directly 
 above it about three hundred feet, is the Mount of Olives. ‘The Valley of the Kedron 
 falls into a deep ravine to the south. We have above a view of the garden within, taken 
 by our artist on the 27th of April, 1894. It is a beautiful spot ; the trees are very venerable, 
 although they can not have been the identical trees which overshadowed the Son of Man 
 in that hour of his distress. Those who are familiar with Eastern life will easily under- 
 stand that Christ would often find rest and sleep and opportunity for devotion 
 on the hillside and under the open canopy of heaven. “ Nearly all the in- 
 habitants of Palestine sleep, during the greater part of the year, in the open 
 
 Ebbee: 
 
have here another view of this celebrated garden. We see beyond it the hills and 
 
 also the walls of Jerusalem. The view was not taken by our artist, but is so excel- 
 
 lent that we are sure our readers will appreciate it. No sacred place in the 
 neighborhood of Jerusalem is so favorable to meditation and prayer. It is hidden away asa 
 sanctuary for thought and worship. It lies in the dark depths of the historic valley. Here 
 in the neighborhood of the tombs of kings and prophets, close by the ancient dwelling 
 place of the poets and saints of Israel, our Savior retired to strengthen himself before 
 passing through the valley of the shadow of death. His agony expressed itself in prayer 
 and in blood as he felt the wretchedness which sin had brought into the world and the 
 st-ength of the bonds which held man to the love and the service of sin. 
 
 (OPP ime ere VIEW OF THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE.—We 
 
 ‘© Who can thy deep wonder see, 
 Wondérful Gethsemane ; 
 
 Where my God bare all my guilt 
 
 This through grace can be believed ; 
 But the horrors which he felt 
 
 Are too vast to be conceived.” 
 
 Dr. Hackett says: ‘‘ Gethsemane is the spot above every other which the visitor must 
 be anxious to see. It was the one which I sought before any other on my arrival in Jeru- 
 salem, and the one of which I took my last formal view onthe morning of my departure. 
 The garden is within a stone’s throw of the city. 
 
 “And yet it is hushed and still, 
 Hushed and still as the mountain-~ -top 
 To which He often retired to pray.” 
 
 —244— 
 
LACE WHERE CHRIST PRAYED, GARDEN OF GETH- 
 SEMANE.~—Just outside of the garden and near the wall is pointed out a place 
 where, it is asserted, Christ prayed. A lamp is kept continually burning 
 there. If, indeed, tradition is right in locating this important act of the Christ, 
 
 the place is, next to Calvary, of all holy places, the most sacred. Here there was a heart 
 that gathered into itself with sympathizing tenderness the woe and anguish of a RES Over 
 against the story of the Garden of Eden, where the first man fell, we may place ARG 
 thought the story of the Garden of Gethsemane, where the second Adam triumphed. What 
 the nee lost in Paradise through transgression the race regained in Gethsemane by obe- 
 dience. ‘That the exact location of Eden and of Gethsemane can never be authorita- 
 tively declared does not lessen the hold of both upon the human imagination. 
 
 “ He knelt, the Savior knelt and prayed 
 When but His Father’s eye 
 Looked through the lonely garden’s shade 
 On that dread agony. 
 The Lord of all above, beneath, 
 Was bowed with sorrow unto death. 
 “With gentle resignation still 
 He yields to His Father’s will 
 In sad Gethsemane. 
 Behold me here! Thine only Son ; 
 And, Father, let Thy will be done.” 
 
apa 
 
 L 
 
 TATIONS OF THE CROSS IN THE GARDEN. 
 
 —Inside the Garden of Gethsemane the Eastern churches have 
 placed the so-called ‘‘stations’’ representing the various inci- 
 dents of the crucifixion. We were here during the Greek Easter 
 week, and many pilgrims were making the rounds of these “stations” 
 inthe garden, One can not be but struck, while standing in the midst 
 of these companies, with the hold Christ has upon the hearts of the human 
 race. Marathon is sacred because there was first a rebuke offered to 
 the tide of Persian civilization. Waterloo is sacred because there, again, 
 was determined the security of Europe for moderntimes. But here, 
 
 under the shadow of Jerusalem, in this dark garden (if this be the identi- 
 
 @ 
 
 cal spot), was won the battle which determined the destiny of the race. 
 No wonder that pilgrims from all parts of the world visit these sacred 
 scenes to recall the triumphs of the Son of God over the woes and sins 
 of the sons of men. It was on Friday, in the month of April, at about 
 one o’clock at night, when Jesus and his disciples left their friend’s house 
 in Jerusalem. It was passover night when few people went tobed. And 
 they walked this night onthe road from the bridge to Olivet. Jesus, 
 who was in front, turned aside from the people and w.nt through 
 the gate into-the Garden of Gethsemane, and his disciples followed 
 him into the shadow of the olive trees, through which the moon- 
 
 light fell. . 
 
 —246— 
 
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 \OCK UPON WHICH JESUS LEANED.—Just outside the Garden 
 of Gethsemane and near the place where Christ is supposed to have uttered 
 the last prayer is a large natural rock. Upon this bowlder, at the bottom of the 
 Mount of Olives, Christ leaned for support and rest. There is no stronger support 
 
 for this than tradition, but this is sufficient to draw pilgrims to it by the thousand. We 
 were here during the Greek Easter, and crowds of people were passing and repassing. 
 We stood for a long time and watched them pass this rock. They were mainly members 
 of the Greek Church from Russia, but coming near this stone they would bend over and 
 kiss it with the deepest manifestation of affection. Often tears would fall on the rock 
 along with the kisses of devotion. It was not a scene to witness without tears. It was an 
 object lesson that appealed to the very depths of sentiment. It helped one to see what 
 a hold Christ had upon the hearts of weary, burdened passengers from time to eternity. 
 
 The writer and the artist were here on the 28th of April, 1894. When the suggestion 
 was made that a view of the rock would be interesting, the artist replied that it might 
 be interesting from the sacred reverence with which the people regarded it, but as a 
 picture he considered that it would not be attractive at all. So you see that it is only 
 a small barren rock. It is not more than ten feet long and four feet high. S-en out 
 of relationtand association with the life and agony of Jesus Christ, it is without interest. 
 Simply because Christ is thought to have seen it and leaned upon it when the 
 weight and guilt of the world’s sin was breaking His heart, it is embalmed forever in 
 
 the affections of the Christian world. All its significance comes from the fact that 
 the loving a:d fainting Christ stood by it. What is true of this rock is true of 
 
 this sacred land—it maintains its hold 
 
 telation to Christ. 
 
 upon the human imagination because of its 
 
 So 
 
the Savior was betrayed at midnight on Friday, the 6th of April, A. D. 30, and was many tombs cut out of the tock in the view above, and it is certainly a view very sug- 
 arrested. Judas Iscariot received, as his price for betraying Christ, thirty pieces of gestive. Thisisa wild, rugged and barren field and is without inhabitants, This Valley 
 silver, and this was paid for what was afterwards called the ‘‘Potter’s Field” or of Hinnom has an evil reputation. Here it was that children were anciently sacrificed to 
 the “Field of Blood.” Itis saidthat the clay from this field is still used by the potters of Moloch. It was called ‘Tophet, or the place of fire. It was ever after detested by the Jews 
 Jerusalem. ‘Now this man purchased a field with. the reward of iniquity ; and falling and called Gehenna, or hell. Here the Jews bought their potter’s field for strangers, and 
 headlong he burst asunder in the midst, and all his bowels gushed out. And it was known here to-day live the lepers. It is one of the strange contrasts of this fascinating city that 
 unto all the dwellers at Jerusalem ; insomuch as that field is called in their propertongue, above this valley of death rises the holy hill of Zion—“ beautiful for situation, the joy of 
 Aceldama, that is to say, the field of blood. For it is written in the book of Psalms, Let the whole earth’’—type of the holy city in the heavens. r 
 =o 
 
 6 FIELD OF BLOOD.—After his agony in the Garden of Gethsemane his habitation be desolate, and let no man dwell therein.”—Acts, i: 18-20. There are 
 @) 
 
OWER OF ANTONIA.—0n Friday, April 7th, between one and five o’clock 
 
 © a. m., according to the harmony we follow, Jesus was led to Annas and then to 
 Caiaphas.—John, xviii:13-15, We have an account of this visit to Caiaphas from 
 Matthew, Mark, Imke and John. He was then brought before the Sanhedrim. 
 During his trial before this body Peter denied him. Jesus was mocked by his enemies, and 
 between five and six o’clock on Friday morning was condemned by the Sanhedrim for blas- 
 phemy. Just after this Judas killed himself. Jesus was brought before Pilate charged with 
 sedition and then sent to Herod. Pilate sought to release him, but in vain. Jesus was then 
 condemned, and mocked and scourged by soldiers.—Matthew, xxvii : 36-40; Luke, xxiii: 
 
 24-25; John, xix:1-3. Soon after Jesus was led away to be crucified. We have an account 
 
 of this surrender in all four of the Gospels. The path which Jesus took from the Sanhe- 
 drim to Calvary is known as the Way of Sorrows—the Via Dolorosa. 
 
 The first station in 
 this sad journey is the Tower of Antonia, 
 
 Of course, we can not be certain as to its loca- 
 tion. According to Colonel Wilson, its present position was assigned it during the period 
 of the Crusaders. Here dwelt the powers representing the Roman Empire, powers compe- 
 tent to deliver the gentle victim of Jewish hate from the ignominious death to which He 
 was doomed. Rome represented the world of human glory and wealth, of enterprise and 
 conquest. What had that world in that day to do with a meek Galilean teacher, who pro- 
 fessed to have been sent by the Father of men to teach his children upon the earth meek- 
 ness, forbearance, patience and love ? 
 
 —250— 
 
in the Via Dolorosa is said to be at the point where the cross was laid upon Christ. 
 This is in the street below the Turkish barracks, at the foot of the stairway which 
 
 © ARCH OF ECCE HOMO, JERUSALEM.~— The second station 
 
 led to the Judgment Hall. A few paces beyond, toward the west, this street is 
 spanned by the Arch of Ecce Homo. It was at this place that tradition represents Pilate 
 bringing forth Jesus wearing the crown of thorns and the purple robe, and announcing Eom 
 to the Pinietade with the words, ‘‘Behold the man.’ ‘The came Jesus forth w earing 
 the crown of thorns and the purple robe. And Pilate saith unto them, Behold the man.” 
 —John, xix:5. Col. Wilson says that this ‘“‘arch has the appearance of a Roman tri- 
 umphal arch of the time of Hadrian,’’ and that ‘it consists of a large central arch, with a 
 smaller one on the north side, which has been included in and forms the eastern termina- 
 
 tion of the church of the convent of the Sisters of Zion.’ As a condemned criminal 
 Christ passed oyer this pathway of pain. It is strange now that this pathway should mark 
 the beginning of Western civilization. Here the world learned a new secret of strength, 
 and a new method of life. Here began the street which has extended over the ages, and 
 along which healthy, holy, triumphant human life has walked ever since. It extends 
 from the Preetorium, the residence of Pilate, to Goigotha, or from the Turkish barracks to 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. And from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre it extends 
 to Rome and London and beyond the Atlantic, crossing the Pacific and China to the 
 Euphrates, and again to Olivet, where it becomes the triumphal way of the Son of Man 
 and of the sos of men to the heavens in which He sits the crowned King of 
 the ages! 
 
 —251— 
 
oo Reece 
 ck, “a St 
 
 over wh 
 
 ich Christ bore His cross to the place of crucifixion. 
 ons in the Via Dolorosa: 1st, the Turkish 
 leading to the J ent Hall ; 
 3d, a broken column near the Au ian hospice, indicating the place 
 where Christ fell under the cross; 4th, is situated near the house of 
 Lazarus, where Christ met His mother; 5th, near the house of Dives, 
 where Simon of Cyrene took up the 6th, the house of St. 
 Veronica; 7th, Porta Ja oloro 
 street from the Dar where 
 Christ addr E not for 
 goth, where Christ fell the third time (in front of the Coptic con- 
 
 ice A DOLOROSA.— This is the pathway of pain, or the street 
 
 a crosses the 
 
 scus 
 
 1 the women, 
 
 vent); roth 
 where Chr 
 the cross 
 
 s within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre indicating the spot 
 t was undressed; 11th, represents where He w 
 t2th, shows where the c was raised ; 13th, indic 
 taken down from the cross; 14th, is the sepulchre in which He 
 ied. Alo this way ca the life that defined the groans 
 and interpreted the travails which pervaded from the beginning 
 the whole of creation. The outcome of sufferit 
 
 was | 
 
 gi 
 
 and the issue of sorrow, 
 when endured for the holy purpose of serving the right, this lonely Man 
 of Gethsemane made plain. Why the whole creation groaned and 
 travailed in pain together was now clearly seen it was with reference to 
 the manifestations of the Son of God and the sons of God. The universal 
 
 travail looked to the birth of a divine person and a divine kingdom, 
 252— 
 
OUSES OF DIVES AND LAZARUS.—The houses of Dives and 
 Lazarus are the fourth and fifth stations along the Via Doloros The fourth, or 
 house of Lazarus, is where Christ is said to have met His mother. And the fifth 
 is where Simon of Cyrene took the cross from Christ, which is the house of Dives. 
 
 The Via Dolorosa, and the Resurrection at the end of it, define the purpose of Godin creat- 
 ing a world subject to trial and conflict and ‘suffering. During the Passion Ww eek in 
 Jerusalem pilgrims pass over this way and meditate upon the sufferings and crucifixion of 
 Each station along the way calls up some particular incident in the last hours 
 of Christ ; and very few visit Jerusalem — whatever may be their creed—but are deeply 
 moved by the s cred sites which are pointed out, though they may believe there is nothing 
 stronger than tradition to establish their identity. Some people believe everything, and 
 
 our Lord. 
 
 then there are others who believe nothing. It seems to be a higher principle to have a 
 faith that will believe even the seemingly impossible than a skeptical disposition which 
 believes nothing at all. But wiser and worthier is the faith that is able to use reason ; 
 to weigh well all phases of eve question ; to look into the letter of Revelation in the 
 light of literary and historical criticism ; to keep the heart open to all spiritual impres- 
 sions, and io cultivate the conscience, that one’s ethical sense may never be 
 blunted or benumbed; to be ready to abandon preconceived notions in the pres- 
 ence of evidence, and thus to be teady to accept the truth whatsoever sacrifice of 
 prejudice may be demanded. In all these archeological studies the main matter is 
 to accept Christ himself, and to depend on Him, rather than 
 nals. 
 
 on mere exter- 
 
- 
 
 eres 
 
 Holy Sepulchre was founded by the generosity of the Empress Helena, the 
 
 mother of Constantine, in the year 335. It is to the northeast of the Jaffa gate, 
 
 and is in size about 230 feet east and west and 200 feet north and south. The 
 holy sepulchre is in the center of the rotunda under the great dome, It is built of white 
 marble, and is twenty-six feet long, seventeen feet wide and fifteen feet high. This elabo- 
 rately carved marble structure, wherein the body of our Savior is supposed to have lain 
 during the three days, contributes the interest and the attraction to the mass of buildings 
 which together constitute the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is the cathedral 
 church of Christendom. No sacred edifice on earth is the object of so much sentiment and 
 affection. For 1559 years the conviction which created and filled the statement of the 
 reed, ‘‘I believe in the Resurrection,” has here lifted itself into the doors, capitals, 
 
 (Cor OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.—The Church of the 
 
 cornices, cupola and fretwork of the most: beautiful church of the Byzantine age. 
 Christian belief has stood in mute stone for nearly sixteen centuries over the empty grave 
 of our Lord, witnessing with a force no words can equal to the fundamental and essential 
 fact of the Christian religion. Here we have in small compass and under one roof an 
 epitome of the Christian religion. Here tongues and orders, denominations and nationali- 
 ties, often wide apart in the great broad world, come together about a common center. 
 For centuries the cry of Christendom has been an echo of the cry of Mary at the tomb of 
 the risen Lord, ‘I know not where they have laid Him.’”’ From the fourth century the 
 Latin Church, especially, has accepted the tradition as to this site of the holy sepulchre, 
 The spiritual believers of all schools of faith who accept Christ as a present and liv- 
 ing force can not with the bereaved Mary say: ‘‘They have 
 Lord.” 
 
 Here 
 
 taken away my 
 
ROTTO OF JEREMIAH.-—Since the visit of the Empress Helena to 
 GS Jerusalem in the fourth century the tomb of Christ has been claimed by many to 
 be in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Others insist that the Church of the 
 
 Holy Sepulchre was inside the walls of Jerusalem at the crucifixion, but that 
 
 Christ was crucified outside of the wall — many believing the tragedy to have taken place 
 west of the hill known as Jeremiah’s Grotto. Haskett Smith sums up the reasons in favor 
 of Jeremiah’s Grotto as follows: Ist, he claims the tomb here has never been finished and 
 yet has been occupied ; 2d, that it was constructed about the time of Christ, being Herod- 
 ian in character ; 2d, that it has been occupied for one burial, and one burial only ; 4th, that 
 it was o nally intended for a Jew, and that a rich and influential one; 5th, though built 
 for a Jew, it was an object of sacred reverence to the early Christians, for it has been used 
 
 asa place for Christian worship, and is surrounded by Christian tombs; 6th, that it occupies 
 a position with regard to the hill opposite it which accords with the Gospel narratives, if 
 the hill above Je-emiah’s Grotto is to be identified with Calvary ; 7th, that the frescoed 
 cross with the sacred monograms still faintly to be traced on the east wall, and evidently 
 of an age almost, if not quite, co-equal with the first century, connects the tomb most inti- 
 mately with Christ. The site is strikingly appropriate. From the walls of the city and 
 from the temple area the terrible scene on Calvary could have been witnessed. In the 
 sight of the great city and the hills about He was ‘lifted up’’—the Lamb 
 of God slain for the salvation of the race. There is no doubt but that a 
 growing number of people accept the Grotto of Jeremiah as the place of our 
 Lord’s burial. 
 
 —255— 
 
~\ODERN MOUNTCALVAR Y.—Great authorities are marshaled in favor 
 
 OO of both claimants—the church within and the mound without the walls. For a 
 long time the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was the only traditional spot 
 pointed out as the place of burial. But with the growing influence of the Grotto 
 
 of Jeremiah, the modern Mount Calvary, a picture of which we give, increased in favor. 
 This whole discussion as to the place where Christ was crucified, and as to the tomb in 
 which His body was placed, turns upon the direction which the walls about Jerusalem took 
 at the time of the crucifixion. If the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was outside the 
 wall at that time, as Dean Stanley thinks it might have been, the chances in favor of its 
 being the place of crucifixion and burial areincreased. If, however, the site of this church 
 
 was inside the wall at that time it is sure that the place of burial and crucifixion was 
 not there, for Christ was crucified outside of the walls of Jerusalem. And supposing the 
 northern wall to be where it is now, the modern Mount Calvary,’ or the Mount Calvary 
 illustrated above, and the Grotto of Jeremiah, conform exactly to the conditions repre- 
 sented in Scripture as the place of crucifixion and burial. This is nearthe city, just across 
 the road from the northern wall, and directly in sight of the multitudes who might have 
 been looking at the terrible tragedy. In this picture we see to the right the Church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre. We really have in this picture a view of both places as claimed by 
 different authorities as the spot of crucifixion and burial, and it is doubtless true that in 
 one or the other of these places our Savior was put to death on the cross. 
 
MMA US.—Christ was crucified at nine o’clock A. M. on Friday, April 7th. 
 
 After 
 
 ‘S) his death his body was placed in the sepulchre and He himself went to 
 Paradise. After his resurrection He appeared to Mary Magdalene and other women 
 
 and to certain of his disciples. One of the most interesting of all the post-resur- 
 
 rection incidents was his walk to Emmaus—Mark, xvi; Luke, xxiv. Several places claim to 
 be the identical Emmaus: Amwas, Beit Jebron, Urtas, Hubeibeh and Koloniah. ‘The last 
 named is thought to be an Arabic corruption of ‘Colonia,’ which must have been a 
 Roman settlement. It is in a valley called Wady Beit Hannina. This is thought to be 
 the Valley of Elah, where David fought Goliath. Above we have a view of Koloniah. 
 There is a café here where travelers from Jaffa take lunch and feed their horses. We can 
 
 not settle the dispute as to the location of Emmaus, but our hearts grow warm as we read 
 the story itself. Concerning one of the most probable sites, Kuryet el-Enab, Dr. Edward 
 Robinson identifies Kirjath-jearim with Emmaus. ‘The two things do not clash, for Kur- 
 yet el-Enab may be both Kirjath-jearim and Emmaus, and it renders this site more 
 interesting to find it not only the resting place of the ark, but, long after, the place where 
 He who was infinitely greater than the ark revealed himself in the breaking of bread to 
 those wandering disciples. The Shekinah burned over the ark, revealing the glory and 
 power and proving the presence of God. So here, as they were on the way to Emmaus, 
 
 the hearts of the disciples burned within them as the Son of God opened to them 
 the Word of God. 
 
EA OF GALILEE.—After making himself known at Emmaus, Jesus appeared 
 @) to ten of the apostles at Jerusalem, and later to eleven of the apostles whea He 
 Thomas for his lack of faith—a rebuke of love. He afterwards stood by 
 of Galilee and gave to Peter the threefold commission after having elicite 
 from Peter his threefold confession of love. It is here that, after a night of profitless 
 attempt, the nets were filled with the fishes. As the Dead Sea is girdled by an almost 
 constant hedge of driftwood, so the Sea of Galilee is girdled by a s y less continuous 
 beit of ruins —the drift of her ancient towns. In the time of our Lord she must have 
 mirrored within the outline of her guardian hills little else than city walls, castles and 
 Greek architecture hung its magnificence over her simple life; Herod’s 
 
 synagogues. 
 
 castle, temple and theatres-in Tiberias; the warm baths; the high-stacked houses 
 of Gamala; the amphitheatre of Gadara with the acropolis above it; the pa 
 its triumphal archway; the great Greek villas on the hei 
 
 oy 
 
 street with 
 ghts of Gadara, with a Roman 
 camp or two high enough up the slopes to catch the western breeze. Here in this centre 
 of life and influence Jesus laid the foundations of his spiritual kingdom, based upon 
 love—upon love to himself as the manifestation of God. ‘‘Lovest thou me?’’? And 
 when Peter confesse his love Jesus commissioned him to “‘ feed’? his ‘“‘ lambs,” to “tend ” 
 and to ‘‘ feed” his ‘‘sheep.’? Whata lovely frame for this divine picture is the Sea of 
 Galilee with its placid waters, with the Gadarene hills beyond, and the blue sky 
 overhead ! 
 
 —253— 
 
the eleven disciples went away into Galilee, into a mountain where Jesus had 
 
 Oe: VIEW OF THE MOUNT OF BEATITUDES.— “Then 
 
 appointed them. And when they saw him, they worshipped him 8 but some 
 
 doubted. And Jesus came and spake unto them, saying, All power is given unto 
 me in heaven and in earth. Go ye therefore and teach all nations, baptizing them in 
 the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost: Teaching them to observe 
 all things whatsoever I have commanded you: and, lo, I am with you alway, even unto the 
 end of the world.’? It is not known on what mountain in Galilee our Savior met 
 His disciples and gave to them the great commission reported in Matthew, xxviii: 16-20. It 
 would be pleasant to believe that this hallowed place was none other than the traditional 
 
 Mount of Beatitudes, where the celebrated sermon was given, which is universally conceded 
 to be the wisest utterance that ever fell on the ears of man. We are standing here on the 
 road to Tiberias, and are looking toward the northwe-t, whereas in the other view given 
 we were looking toward the north. ‘his view was taken on the morning of the 8th of 
 May, 1894. We were on our way from Nazareth to Tiberias. ‘There are no homesteads 
 now to break the solitude. The lights which come out at night on shore and hill are the 
 camp-fires of wandering Arabs, and a sail is seldom seen upon the surface of the lake. Not 
 so when Jesus was there to find a home and his disciples. Where there are no trees, there 
 were great woods ; where there are marshes, there were noble gardens ; where there are but a 
 boat or two, there were fleets of sails ; where there is one town, there were nine or ten. 
 
 —259— 
 
—OUNT OF OLIVES FROM TEMPLE PLATEAU.—To stand 
 7 upon the temple plateau in the very heart of the ‘Holy City of the Ages,” 
 commanding a view of all that crowds within the circle of our vision, with all 
 
 To study the landscape, to recall His 
 
 ©) 
 
 its associations, is a privilege, indeed. 
 sweet presence, His matchless wisdom, His life, His death and resurrection, is a heritage 
 initself. ‘The mountains are round about Jerusalem,” not only hemming it in bya single 
 circuit, but rolling for miles in every direction—great mountain waves, like the waves of 
 the sea. ‘These are the defenses of the Holy City. ‘There is one view, however, which can 
 not fail to send a thrill through the most unsusceptible observer, and that is Mount 
 Olivet. To look 
 
 “ From Salem’s height o’er Kedron’s stream 
 To Olivet’s dark steep.” 
 To see its graceful curved line against the sky, its gray top, hoary with the lapse of ages, 
 
 the zigzag path leading away over its summit to Bethany, and at its base lying Geth- 
 where the Son of Man in anguish. And somewhere on* its 
 
 eastern slope 
 
 semane, bowed away 
 
 “ Our Lord ascended up on high, 
 And captive led captivity.” 
 “To recall the events in both the Old and the New Testament gives sacredness to this ven- 
 erable and lofty mountain.’’—Hackett. Olivet has shared in the general neglect which has 
 conyerted so much of the country into a desert. 
 It must have been adorned anciently with fields of grain, groves and orchards. 
 At present it exhibits, on the whole, a desolate appearance. Rocky ledges crop out here 
 and there above the surface and give to the hill a broken, sterile aspect. A few olive and 
 fig trees are scattered up and down its sides. A shepherd watching a few sheep emerges 
 d then into view and gives diversity to the scene. 
 
 It is naturally susceptible of high culti- 
 
 vation. 
 
 now 
 
 —260— 
 
(ee ee 
 
 HURCH OF ST. JOHN, SAMARIA.—The most conspicuous and 
 influential of the apostles, after the death of our Lord, was Peter. And even 
 during the life of Jesus, Peter seems to have held the first place among the twelve. 
 He was one of the first chosen ; he is named first in the list of the apostles, and 
 
 seems to have been considered by our Lord himself as the representative of the apostles. 
 He is generally the spokesman of the twelve. At the last supper he insisted upon haying 
 the traitor pointed out. On the morning of the Resurrection he and John were the first to 
 visit thesepulchre, and Peter was the first who entered it. It seems that Christ appeared, from 
 the teachings of Luke and John, first to Peter among the apostles. In nearly all of the acts 
 of the apostles, after the Resurrection, Peter seems to stand forth as the most prominent 
 one among them, and as the leader of them, He was the most conspicuous of the apostles 
 
 He and John carried the Gospel first beyond the boundary of 
 Judea into Samaria. We give as illustrative of this visit of St. John and St. Peter to 
 Samaria another view of the Church of St. John, Samaria. This is a view of the inner court of 
 thechurch. We have some rocks piled in broken confusion to the left. We see agroup of men 
 standing toward the right, in the midst of which is our dragoman, Abraham Lyons, engaged 
 in earnest conversation with a person who seems to be the most prominent among the num- 
 ber. We would take him to be the sheikh of Samaria. These men standing around have coins 
 to sell, dating back tothe time of the Romans, which they have discovered among the ruins 
 of Samaria, one of the cities which Herod adorned in honor of Augustus. Abraham Lyons 
 has been a dragoman in Palestine for thirty years. He is a native of Jerusalem, but an Hunga- 
 rian by descent. He is a member of the English Church, and speaks fluently : even languages. 
 
 on the day of Pentecost. 
 
 —261— 
 
URYET EL-ENAB.—Some time after the Resurrection Peter made a visit to 
 
 _ Jaffa, and doubtless leaving Jerusalem passed over the same road that we find leading 
 
 @ from Jerusalem to Jaffa to-day. He would pass, about eight miles beyond Jerusalem, 
 
 — Kuryet el-Enab, one view of which we have already given. 
 
 a better picture of the church of the Crusaders at that place. 
 specimen of the churches built in Palestine by the Crusaders. It is called the Church of 
 Jeremiah. It stands down from the road to the left of the picture at the bottom of a slope 
 covered with olive trees. We see one lonely palm tree standing in the midst of this village. 
 Kuryet el-Enab is now known by the name of Abu Ghosh. ‘This is the name of an old 
 robber who formerly lived here, and his descendaxts are the leading families in the village. 
 Atomb is built in his memory here by his relatives, and this is one of the most thrifty 
 
 In the above we have 
 This is the best remaining 
 
 looking villages between Jaffa and Jerusalem. The houses are flat-roofed and built of stone, 
 and the olive groyv well kept. The mingling of the trees and the old stone houses 
 makes a picturesque scene. We are looking toward the south. Our artist secured this 
 picture on the morning of the 24th of April, 1894. In a visit to Palestine before our last, one 
 of our editors lunched at Kuryet el-Enab, and had a chance to share the hospitality of the old 
 chief of the place. ' 
 
 He was a handsome old fellow with long gray beard and an interest- 
 He brought us coffee and eggs for our lunch, and although his “hospitality ”’ 
 of the most effusive sort, with bows and smiles, and earnest questions about our health 
 and homes, and prayers for our prosperity, when the time for parting came his anxiety to 
 have backsheesh, and plenty of it, was painfully manifest. We paid him well and bade 
 him good-by with pleasure. 
 
 ing face. 
 s 
 
 202 
 
OUNTAINS OF JUDEA.—leaving Jerusalem for Jaffa along the same 
 road we now take, Peter would pass through the mountains of Judea, a view of 
 This is a very graphic scene of the hills we climbed after 
 
 HNO 
 which we give above. 
 leaving Emmaus on the road to Jaffa. Wehaveadim and vague view of Ain- 
 
 Karim in the distance. ‘These hills, according to Canon Tristram, were lifted during the 
 myocene period of the earth’s formation. They are covered with beantiful flowers of all 
 colors. At the bottom of the picture we can see a view of the wild flowers, but as the pho- 
 tograph fails to show any colors except black and white, we lose the effect of the red and 
 blue and yellow flowers which illuminate these hills, giving them in the month of April 
 
 an attractiveness and relief very beautiful. Their grim and forbidding loneliness is set off 
 and redeemed by these little nurslings of the sky, which stand often so thick upon the 
 ground as to hide it altogether. Weare looking toward the south. Our artist secured this 
 picture on the 24th of April, 1894. ‘The terraces of the Judean hills are reminders of the 
 real wealth of the Judean soil when protected by these walls on the mountain-sides. The 
 rock, which seems at first glance so barren, is, when disintegrated and duly watered, 
 exceedingly rich and fertile. Doubters may pronounce as fabulous the records of history 
 as to the immense population sustained by the products of Canaan. But wherever the soil 
 is actually tested the results demonstrate the truth of the Bible records, 
 
 —263— 
 
ae ee 
 
 ee 
 
 OAT AND OARSMEN, JAFFA.—“ There was a certain man in Cesarea 
 called Cornelius, a centurion of the band called the Italian band; a devout man, 
 and one that feared God with all his house, which gave much alms to the people, 
 and prayed to God alway. He saw in a vision, evidently about the ninth hour of 
 
 the day, an angel of God coming in to him, and saying unto him, Cornelius. And when 
 he looked on him, he was afraid, and said, What is it, Lord? And he said unto him, Thy 
 prayers and thine alms are come up for a memorial before God. And now send men to 
 Joppa, and call for one Simon, whose surname is Peter: He lodgeth with one Simon a 
 tanner, whose house is by the seaside : he shall tell thee what thou oughtest to do.’’—Acts, 
 x:1-6. It was upon this visit of Peter to Joppa that he saw “the heavens opened, and a 
 certain vessel descending unto him, as it had been a great sheet knit at the four corners, 
 
 and let down to the earth, wherein were all manner of four-footed beasts of the earth, and 
 wild beasts, and creeping things, and fowls of the air. And there came a voice to him, 
 Rise, Peter, kill, and eat. But Peter said, Not so, Lord, for I have never eaten anything 
 that is common or unclean. And the voice spake unto him again the second time, What 
 God hath cleansed, that call not thou common. ‘This was done thrice, and the vessel was 
 received up again into heaven.”’ It was in this way that God taught Peter that He was no 
 respecter of persons, “But in every nation he that feareth him, and worketh righteous- 
 ness, is accepted with him.”” It was at this time {hat the Holy Ghost was poured out upon 
 the Gentiles, and Cornelius was baptized. As illustrative of this visit of St. Peter to Jaffa, 
 we give a picture of a boat and oarsmen, by which we can see how travelers are brought 
 from the great ships which anchor out in the sea to the shore. 
 
 —264— 
 
ion Ble 
 
 T. STEPHEN’S GATE.—St. Stephen’s Gate is called by the natives Bab 
 Sitti Mirriam, or the Gate of My Lady Mary. This is on the east side of the city 
 and opens down into the Valley of the Kedron. Through this persons pass in going 
 to the Mount of Olives and to Bethany. According to tradition, St. Stephen was 
 
 stoned below this gate in the Valley of the Kedron. At this place we get our first introduc- 
 tion to the apostle Paul. After a great sermon delivered by St. Stephen, it is said, “When 
 they heard these things, they were cut to the heart, and they gnashed on him with their 
 t But he, being full of the Holy Ghost, looked up steadfastly into heaven, and saw 
 And said, Behold, I see 
 Then they 
 
 teeth. 
 the glery of God, and Jesus standing on the right hand of God. 
 the heavens opened, and the Son of Man standing on the right hand of God. 
 cried out with a loud voice, and stopped their ears, and ran upon him with one accord, 
 
 and cast him out of the city, and stoned him; and the witnesses laid down their clothes 
 at a young man’s feet whose name was Saul. And they stoned Stephen, calling upon 
 God, and saying, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit. And he kneeled down and cried, with a 
 loud voice, Lord, lay not this sin to their charge. And when he had said this, he fell 
 asleep.” Stephen was the first Christian martyr, and belonged to the number known as 
 deacons. He was appointed to rectify the complaints made in the early church by the 
 Helenistic against the Hebrew Christians. Saul of Tarsus here rises into view—a star of 
 the first magnitude, in the clouds at first, but into a clear sky he springs and shines 
 through the heavens, his light reaching the day in which we liye—a master-teacher, a 
 living Christian, a brave preacher, a bold and forcible writer and one of the mightiest 
 proofs of the divinity of our Christian faith. ’ 
 
 —265— 
 
many times as we have followed with our notes and illustrations the ‘‘ Karthly 
 Footsteps of the Man of Galilee.’ Every view of it calls up associations pathetic 
 andsacred. From time immemorial the Valley of Jehoshaphat or Kedron has been a 
 place of burial for the Jews. According to tradition the Virgin Mary was entombed in this 
 lonely and desolate ravine. Here rests the body of the Prophet Zacharias, who was slain 
 between the temple and the altar, and here also is the tomb of Absalom, so imperious and 
 The tomb to Absalom, which stands in 
 Of course, this has no foundation 
 
 Pores & OF THE KEDRON.—We have passed and repassed this valley 
 p 
 
 wayward, and yet so loved and wept by his father. 
 this valley, is said to have been constructed by David. 
 
 except in fancy. ‘This whole region is a place of tombs, and the Garden of Gethsemane 
 
 quietly blooms here, as if, some one has said, forming the conclusion of some melancholy 
 
 chapter in a history of great events. These tombs of prophets, princes and kings bring 
 before us the condensed history of Israel. The west side of the valley is a lofty limestone 
 cliff, and supports the walls of Jerusalem. ‘The east side lifts itself into the Mount of 
 Olives. The cliffs on either side contain the ruins of chapels, oratories and mosques. 
 “From the dullness of Jerusalem,’ says Chateaubriand, ‘‘ whence no smoke arises, no 
 noise proceeds ; from the solitude of these hills, where no living creature is to be seen; 
 from the ruinous state of all these tombs—overthrown, broken and half open—you would 
 imagine that the last trump had already sounded, and that the Valley of Jehoshaphat was 
 about to render up its dead.” 
 
 —266— 
 
-~\OSHPINA.-— Our first introduction to St. Paul in the Scriptures is in the seventh 
 © chapter of the Acts. In the ninth chapter we are told that “Saul, yet breathing 
 out threatenings and slaughter against the disciples of the Lord, went unto the 
 
 high priest and desired of him letters to Damascus to the synagogues, that if he 
 
 found any of this way, whether they were men or women, he might bring them bound unto 
 Jerusalem. And as he journeyed he came near Damascus.’ ‘Theophilus the Sadducee 
 was high priest at this time, and to him Saul applied for authority, or letters of inquisi- 
 tion. The Sadducee faction was dominant at this time in Jerusalem. According to 
 Thomas Lewin, of Trinity College, Oxford, England, whose harmony we shall follow in 
 the history of St. Paul, it was about the middle of the summer, A. D. 37, that Paul started 
 on his mission. of persecution. Stephen had suffered martyrdom a short time before. At 
 
 ) 
 
 the feast of Pentecost, Paul started for Damascus with a caravan. 
 
 Some were on horse- 
 back and some on foot, very much like an oriental caravan of the present day. ‘The direct 
 
 distance from Jerusalem to Damascus is about one hundred and twenty miles. On the 
 map which accompanies these notes we indicate the route which we suppose Saul took. If 
 our surmise be correct, he passed the location of the present Roshpina. Here the new and 
 the old come together. ‘This village was built by the Rothschilds for poor Jews. It is not 
 far from the watersof Merom. We are now looking tothe north. The picture was taken on 
 the roth of May, 1894, at ten o’clock in the morning. The houses have a modern and sub- 
 stantial look. Trees are in sight, a stone wall—a touch of Christian civiliza- 
 tion, products of the Gospel which nearly nineteen centuries ago Paul tried to de- 
 stroy. 
 
 —267— 
 
f))AT WEAVERS AT THEIR LOOMS.~— After pas 
 
 / we halted for lunch at noon in sight of the waters of Merom, just above where 
 
 the marsh of Huleh begins. There is here a Bedouin village, and the occupa- 
 
 tion of natives is mat-weaving. ‘The rushes grow near by on the banks of the 
 
 Jordan. Thus the Bedouins of the surrounding country are supplied with the mats which 
 they use to carpet their tents of goats’ hair. In the picture we see a very primitive loom. 
 Some of the rushes are spread on a framework above to shelter the toiler from the heat of 
 the sun, and we see alongside the loom the rushes ready for use in the weaving of the mat. 
 ‘These mats are v thick and hez and last for many y 
 on the framework of the loom as if posing for her picture, 
 
 rs. One of the women is resting 
 In this view we are looking 
 
 toward the east, and it is the hour of high noon. Some of the finished mats are seen lying 
 beyond the loom. Above are the mountains. 
 region like this springs largely from i 
 events of long ago. 
 beauty in the fa 
 
 The interest which attaches to a desolate 
 ociations with illustrious names and important 
 This rough, stony ground has little value to us. 
 
 There is no 
 and the forms of the women whom we see, and no remarka- 
 ble ingenuity in their handiwork, but the moment we think it possible that over 
 this soil and under the shadow of these mountains passed Saul of Tarsus bound 
 for Damascus, with his splendid career to him undreamed of, and to us well 
 known, before him, the entire picture becomes invested with new significance and 
 value. a 
 
 —268— 
 
EIT JENN WATERFALL.—Atter leaving Mejdel es-Shems, an illustration 
 of which place has already been given, passing along the Jerusalem road to 
 Damascus over a succession of high ridges running off from the central Hermon 
 range of mountains, and then along a lofty table-land, descending a hill of white 
 
 limestone, we come to the village on the side of the mountain called Beit Jenn. The 
 
 meaning of the word is ‘‘The Garden House,” or ‘‘The House of Paradise.” b The place 
 was once densely populated. This is evident from the many rock tombs which we find 
 here. No doubt the original town was one of considerable importance, but its exact site 
 and leading features have not yet been identified. The picture above presents a charming 
 waterfall caused by the descent of the stream Jennani plunging over precipitous rocks. It 
 
 comes in delicate streamlets, and now in rushing torrents among moss-covered rocks, 
 among which shrubs and grasses grow. The contrast is very fine between the dark rocks, 
 snow-white waters and verdant growths. This Jennani is one of the main tributaries to 
 the ancient river Pharpar, referred to in II. Kings, v: 12. The picture was taken by our 
 artist at noon on Saturday, the 12th day of May, 1894. We are now approaching the plain 
 of Damascus. From rugged mountains we come to the vast expanse of fertile country, 
 rich and beautiful, the product of the famous rivers from which the life and prosperity of 
 Damascus sprang. We are drawing nearer to that “ pearl of the East,” the glorious city 
 embowered in trees where the ceaseless music of flowing waters salutes the ear, and soon 
 we shall see its towering minarets. 
 
 —269— 
 
AMASCUS FROM SALAHIYEH.—“ And as he journeyed, he came 
 
 near Damascus: and suddenly there shined round about hima light from heaven : 
 
 And he fell to the earth, and heard a voice saying unto him, Saul, Saul, why 
 persecutest thou me? And he said, Who art thou, Lord? And the Lord said, I 
 
 am Jesus whom thou persecutest: it is hard for thee to kick against the pricks. And he 
 
 trembling and astonished said, Lord, what wilt thou have me todo? And the Lord said 
 unto him, Arise and go into the city, and it shall be told thee what thou must do. And 
 the men which journeyed with him stood speechless, hearing a voice, but seeing no man. 
 And Saul arose from the earth ; and when his eyes were opened he saw no man: but they 
 led him by the hand, and brought him into Damascus.”—Acts, ix: 3-8. During three days 
 
 Saul was without sight, and he spent this time in the house of one Judas, whither he had 
 been led. We here give a general view of Damascus from Salahiyeh, a village lying about 
 one mile to the northwest of the city. Damascus from this point looks like an 
 embodied dream. 
 “Damascus! daughter of Abana’s stream! 
 
 How beauteous still are thy enchanting bowers; 
 
 Thy gardens that with fruits unnumbered teem a 
 
 The perfumes that exhale from loveliest flowers! 
 
 Thy native charms defy the gliding hours, 
 
 But marred, alas! the work that man hath made!” 
 
 —270— 
 
YATEWAY, DAMASCUS.—0n the 13th of May, 1894, our caravan passed 
 
 © through the gateway in the western wall of the city of Damascus, and we found 
 ourselves in the midst of this most remarkable city. For hours before we reached 
 
 it we saw its gleaming glory in the distance; the tall, graceful minarets rising 
 
 from her more than three hundred mosques ; her far-famed gardens and the glory of her 
 Perhaps one of the reasons why travelers praise Damascus so unstintedly is because 
 of the delightful contrast it furnishes to the treeless, hot and verdureless country through 
 
 trees. 
 
 which they passed on their approach to it. After a horseback ride from Jerusalem over a 
 rough road—perhaps one of the roughest on earth—through a country with few trees, one 
 would be in condition to praise any city in which gardens, orchards and abundance of 
 
 water were to be found ; but when the contrast is presented between such a desert journey 
 and the surpassing beauty of Damascus, one is justified for the measure of extravagance in 
 his terms of commendation. We see its gardens, canals, fountains, deep and abundant, 
 shadows cast from long, spreading branches of most charming trees ; certainly, the traveler 
 may be allowed, at the pitch of his enthusiasm, to use the most extravagant 
 adjectives in his praise of the new-found paradise. Damascus is said to be 
 the oldest city in the world. This may not be literally true, but we know some- 
 thing of its history for four thousand years. It has been ruled by kings from 
 Nineveh, Babylon, Persia, Greece and Rome, and under all it has been a place of 
 importance. 
 
 —271— 
 
) cus as an earthly paradise. It is encompassed by gardens and orchards. These 
 cover an area of over twenty-five miles in circumference. Here grow olive, fig, 
 walnut, apricot, poplar, palm, cypress and pomegranate trees. In the above view 
 
 we have a scene taken from the Jerusalem road in the western part of the city, and looking 
 to the north a ridge of Anti-Lebanon is seen straight before us. In the richness of its soil, in 
 the salubrity and semi-tropical character of its climate, in its varied vegetation, we find 
 the reason for the constant association of Damascus with the thought of gardens. It has 
 been for four thousand years a garden. It is surrounded for miles with this splendor of 
 verdure. Its gardens and orchards and far-reaching groves, rich in foliage and blos- 
 
 (Cx RDENS OF DAMASCUS.—No wonder the Moslems look upon Damas- 
 
 soms, wrap the city around like a mantle of green velvet powdered with pearls. 
 The apricot orchards seem to blush at their own surpassing loveliness, and the gentle 
 breezes that rustle softly through the feathery tops of the palms are laden with the perfume 
 of the rose and the violet. Tristram, in his account of what he saw, says: ‘‘Tall mud 
 walls extended in every direction under the trees, and flowing streams of water from the 
 Barada everywhere bubbled through the orchards, while all was alive with the song of 
 birds and the hum of bees. The great apricot trees were laden and bent down under strings 
 of ripe golden fruit.” Whatever changes may be made by the hand of man in Damascus, 
 whatever changes in government and in commercial activities, the city is sure to be for 
 all time a paradise of fertility and beauty. 
 
 272— 
 
IVER ROAD, DAMASCUS. -— It will not be possible to give to our readers 
 7 an idea of order and relation in our presentations of Damascus. We may indeed 
 ssert without fear of contradiction that there is no order in Damascus. It cor- 
 responds in its general make-up to the listless, indolent, happy-go-lucky element 
 in human nature. It has been a city without a purpose. The people seem each day to 
 seek only temporal enjoyment with as little personal exertion as possible. The whole city 
 presents a perpetual invitation to lie down and rest. The trees, by the black shadows they 
 throw across the roadside, call upon you to stop. ‘The waters of the Abana wind their way 
 through the gardens and courts of the houses soliloquizing upon the blessedness of sleep 
 and rest. ‘The dress of the natives even when they walk — slippers half on, and with long, 
 
 flowing robes —seems to say, ‘“‘I am not walking much; I shall soon lie down again.’’ The 
 view which we have above is typical of Damascus. Looking at it one longs to wander 
 along the smooth path by the calm waters, and to inhale the fragrance of plants and flow- 
 ers, to dream and to build air castles and let the stream of life wind on at its own sweet 
 will. It was from this luxurious center that a man came forth to starile, to quicken, to 
 revolutionize the ages with a gospel of self-sacrifice and human service. Smitten with 
 blindness, he entered for a time into the deep experiences into which the Spirit of God 
 leads a man when he would convince him of sin, of righteousness and of judgment to come. 
 And when Saul emerged from this pit of darkness, thus divinely illuminated, he went 
 forth a new man to proclaim with new zeal his new word of life for humanity. 
 
 —273— 
 
BANA RIVER PASSING THE GARDENS. -~— The Abana River, 
 
 (O 
 
 which is now known as the Barada, rises among the Lebanons. The main source 
 is Fijeh, about a day’s ride to the southwest of Damascus. It enters the plain of 
 
 Damascus through a deep ravine about one mile to the west of the outskirts of the 
 city itself. The Pharpar River, which was called ‘‘ one of the rivers of Damascus,’’ does 
 not enter the city at all. The life in the gardens, the beauty of the trees, the charm of the 
 flowers, the green grass, the rich fruits, which distinguish the city of Damascus, it owes to 
 the waters of Abana. This river is divided into numberless channels and is distributed 
 throughout Damascus and tue region immediately about it. In almost every house there 
 is a fountain, and one can stand still almost anywhere and listen to the murmur of the 
 
 hidden streams that pass under and through the city. What a symbol of the river of life 
 to which Saul of Tarsus, afterwards St. Paul of Christendom, led the thirsting multitude of 
 our race! It is this Gospel which, like the Abana, gives life to the world, plants its 
 gardens among the deserts of sin and iniquity, cools the hot atmosphere, slakes the thirst 
 of the human heart, and turns the wilderness into a garden of beauty and delight. Flow 
 on! O river of Salvation! till in every land thy refreshing waters shall come, trans- 
 forming the wilderness into a paradise. ‘Then ‘“‘the desert shall rejoice and 
 blossom as the rose,” and every man, sitting under his own vine and fig tree, 
 shall enjoy the blessings of a Christian civilization, a Christian witness and the 
 Christian hope. 
 
OADWAY ALONG THE ABANA, DAMASCUS.—The Abana 
 River has four sources; one is from Fijeh, under the Lebanon cliff; another from 
 near Amri el-Hamar, north of Zebdany ; another west of Zebdany ; and the fourth 
 west of Ruklah, under Hermon. The first reference to Abana is in the fifth chapter 
 
 of II. Kings, where we find the story of Naaman. There are some charming glimpses of 
 
 and river —the turn of the road, the shadow of the bridge, the overhanging 
 trees, the crowding of the shrubbery to the very water’s edge, the variety of leafage —that 
 are peculiarly beautiful. To me Damascus looked like a vision of paradise when I first saw 
 it—all peace and beauty. It looks so rapturous in its evergreen bower, far removed from 
 the din of commerce and the tude whirl of modern life and the jarring turmoil of the 
 
 roadway 
 
 world’s politics, that one would think that it had never felt the shock of war, that its soil 
 had never been polluted by crime, or that Abana and Pharpar had never been red with the 
 blood of thousands slaughtered mercilessly. But it has been many times sacked, and 
 twice at least the effective classes of population have been swept into captivity. But this 
 has not broken the chain of her history. The river of Abana is the secret of her eternal 
 youth. Dr. Smith says: ‘The Abana-bursts full-born from the Anti-Lebanon, runs 
 a course of ten miles in natrow gorge, and from the mouth of this expands 
 into seven streams, and, going through THE city of oriental cities, spends itself 
 Wonderful river of life! But more wonderful the spiritual stream it 
 
 a 
 
 in the desert.” 
 
 symbolizes ! 
 
 —275— 
 
HE STREET CALLED STRAIGHT.—“‘And there was ac srtain disciple 
 
 at Damascus, named Ananias; and to him said the Lord in a vi ion, Ananias. 
 
 And he said, Behold, Iam here, Lord. And the Lord said unto him, Arise, and go 
 
 into the street which is called Stra 
 
 called Saul, of Tarsus: for, behold, he pr 
 Straight is still the leading street in Damascus. 
 
 t, and inquire in the house of Judas for one 
 eth.’’—Acts, ix: Io-11. The street called 
 
 It runs from east to west almost through 
 the whole city. The leading carpet and silk shops are to be found on this avenue. We 
 have here a picture of modern Damascus and the street called Straight. It is narrow, and 
 really it is a crooked street, although called Straight. 
 
 Changes have taken place within a 
 few years, and now one may ride through the most of the street in a modern carriage —a 
 
 feat which could not have been performed a decade ago. One loses for a moment, in 
 glancing at the comparatively modern houses, the peculiar interest which springs into the 
 heart at the thought of Saul; but whether in the desert with jah and St. John or in the 
 modern city like London with Wilberforce and Carey, the Spirit of God works within the 
 soul of man and prepares him to go forth in city and country, in palace and hovel, on land 
 and on sea, to proclaim the gospel of regeneration and of salvation. Whatever may have 
 been the surroundings of Saul of ‘Tarsus, and however they may have differed in archi- 
 tecture from those of the present day, the gospel which Saul was called to preach is a 
 gospel needed now everywhere among all sorts and conditions of men and among all 
 classes of society. 
 
 —276— 
 
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SOPYRIGHT 1298 BY REN BAIN 
 
 NTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF ANANIAS. — This little chapel 
 belonging to the Latins has been recovered from the fire and devastation of 1860, 
 when thousands of unoffending Christians were murdered in Damascus alone by the 
 Druses and Turkish soldiers aiding the Moslem population. Then the Christian 
 
 a heap of ruins, and has never regained the importance it previously bore. 
 
 quarter v 
 r cease entirely in the world 
 
 The persecution of the true children of God will, perhaps, n 
 until the civilization of the world becomes thoroughly Christian; until freedom of opinion 
 and freedom of speech be guaranteed by the advance of Christian ideas. The true Chris- 
 tian pilgrim is in no way dependent upon traditional houses and tombs. He is content to 
 Know that Jesus walked beside Galilee, and sailed upon its waters, stilling its waves, and 
 that Paul, converted by a stupendous miracle, at Damascus, walked on this street called 
 
 Straight, dumb, blind, childlike, to the house where another vision should be to him a Valley 
 of Achor —a “‘door of hope ;’’ while to Ananias, just around the corner in this narrow lane, 
 perhaps the other half of the heavenly on was unrolled. Was it only in other 
 that the infinite spirit spake to the spirit of man? Are there in our times no voices 
 conscience? no inner light? no assurance of hope? no witness of the spirit? no 
 light in the darkness of our doubt and fear? Verily, if there be none of these things i 
 the inner life of to-day, the old story of their manifestations in ancient times 
 is of little avail to humanity, The picture of a fountain of flowing water can only 
 ntalize the thirsty soul. For our present long is there no divine pro- 
 mn? Verily, we may believe in the reality of divine guidance and testimony 
 
 even now. 
 
 —278— 
 
NSCRIPTION ON BRIDGE, GRAND MOSQUE, DAMASCUS. 
 —The Grand Mosque of Damascus is one of the most interesting buildings in the 
 East. It is quadrangular in form, one hundred and sixty-three yards wide, by one 
 
 hundred and eight yards long. A lofty wall of fine masonry surrounds it. A few 
 years ago the building was almost destroyed by fire. One of the most wonderful things 
 about this mosque is an inscription which is pointed out to the tourist. It runs over an 
 arch in the second story. You can see even in this picture the Greek letters which form 
 the following sentence: ‘‘Thy kingdom, O Christ, is an everlasting kingdom, and Thy 
 dominion endureth throughout all generations.’’ This is the Septuagint rendering of 
 Psalms, cxly:13, with the simple addition of the name of Christ. What a curious inscrip- 
 tion to find on a Moslem mosque! And yet, how true it is that the kingdom of Christ is an 
 
 everlasting kingdom. To-day the power of Mohammedanism is waning. The oriental 
 systems — all of them — lose their luster in the presence of the shining of His name who is 
 the light of the world. Stronger than ever is the scepter of Christ; more than ever are the 
 thoughts of men turned toward the Christ; more fully than ever does the spirit of Christ 
 enter into national administration and into social life. An ‘ everlasting dominion!” It 
 is surprising that Mohammedan fanaticism has allowed this remarkable inscription to 
 remain here for more than twelve hundred years. ‘he artist and one of the editors climbed 
 to it by means of a ladder and saw it from the roof of the silversmiths’ bazaar. The 
 mosque was undoubtedly a Christian church. And before that, during the earliest centu- 
 ties of the Christian era, it was probably a heathen temple. ‘hus the remains of the Chris- 
 tian profession pronounce a glorious fact to the sons of man in this present time. 
 
 —279— 
 
UBLIC SQUARE, DAMASCUS.—I1 the above view we have the leading 
 public square in the city of Damascus. It contains the city prison. We see the 
 Abana River flowing under the square, through great stone arches. The Victoria 
 Hotel, at which we stopped in 1894, faced this square, and we were informed by 
 
 our dragoman that the city prison within sight contained some five or six hundred 
 
 prisoners, many of whom were incarcerated for very trifling offenses. The Turkish govern- 
 ment as far as possible avoids bringing prisoners to trial, but keeps them “in durance 
 vile’ even to the day of death. Damascus was once the capital of the world from the 
 
 Atlantic to the Bay of Bengal, but the vast empire went from her, and the city continued 
 
 to flourish as before. It has ever been a city utterly incapable of defense. Nineveh, 
 
 Babylon and Memphis entirely conquered her; she probably preceded them and she has 
 outlived them. She has been twice supplanted by Antioch, and she has seen Antioch 
 decay ; by Bagdad, and Bagdad is forgotten. Even here in the public square of the city 
 we see Abana. As Dr. Smith has eloquently said: ‘Because this river, instead of wasting 
 her waters saves them, and instead of slowly expanding them on the doubtful possibilities 
 of a province lavishes all her life at once on a creation of a single great city and straight- 
 way disappears on the face of the desert — it is because of this that Damascus, so remote, 
 and so defenseless, has endured through human history, and must endure.”? Thus is the 
 river from the mountains a river of lifeto the city. The granite of the hills can not come down 
 to make walls about the place, but the hills send down their waters and the city remains. 
 
 —260— 
 
SuSE 
 
 eYRE MEAN 
 
 a )EVOLT IN PRISON, DAMASCUS.— 0n Wednesday, May 16th, 1894, 
 
 = the artist and one of the editors had just returned from a carriage drive to Dum- 
 mar in the environs of Damascus. We were at dinner with fifteen or twenty 
 French capitalists from Paris, in Syria at the time in the interest of their railroad 
 
 from Beyrout to Damascus. Suddenly conversation ceased as we heard an awful and 
 unearthly noise in front of the hotel. At once we all rushed to the front veranda in the 
 second story of the Victoria Hotel. The public square in front was filled with people, and 
 from the opening in the center of the city prison brickbats were being hurled, and from 
 the top soldiers were shooting at the prisoners within. I had never before seen one man 
 fire a gun at another. The multitudinous roar that came up from the five hundred 
 
 prisoners within seemed to be an expression of despair, starvation, and utter wretched- 
 ness. It was horrible; several were already killed and others were wounded. After an 
 hour of fearful suspense the mutiny was quelled. ‘The artist, always anxious to secure 
 representations of strange scenes, had his camera hoisted upon the tripod almost instantly 
 and was photographing the scene. One of the Frenchmen happened to observe him, and 
 witn the most violent and blood-curdling gestures informed him that if he was seen taking 
 a photograph by the Turkish officers he would be in the prison himself in five minutes. 
 It is needless to say the camera was soon lowered and put out of sight. We had 
 secured two or three pictures, however, before the peril of the enterprise was recognized 
 by the artist. 
 
 —281— 
 
OUSE OF NAAMAN THE LEPER, DAMASCUS, -— Outside the 
 
 east gate of the city of Damascus, on the banks of Abana, is the leper hospital, 
 
 which tradition tells us occupies the site of Naaman’s house. Naaman was com- 
 
 mander-in-chief of the armies of Damascus. He was one of the greatest generals 
 and greatest men of his age, but ‘he was a leper.’’? In some warlike expedition he carried 
 away a little Jewish maid, who became his slave. Amid his sufferings the little maid 
 exclaimed, ‘‘ Would God my lord were with the prophet [Elisha] that is in Samaria! for 
 he would recover him of his leprosy.’” Naaman went, but Elisha did not condescend to 
 see him. ge saying, ‘‘Go wash in the Jordan.” The proud 
 Damascene was indignant. He expected that the prophet would come out ‘and call on 
 
 He simply sent him a me: 
 
 the name of the Lord his God, and strike his hand over the place, and recover the leper. 
 Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than all the waters of Israel? may 
 I not wash in them, and be clean?”” But Naaman obeyed and was cleansed. He washed 
 in the river again and again —seven times, according to the divine command of the 
 prophet —and, lo! healing came! The memory of Naaman clings to Damascus yet. 
 Outside I have visited the lepers’ hospital on the site of the house of Naaman, and when 
 looking on its miserable inmates, all disfigured and mutilated by their loathsome disease, 
 I could not wonder that the heart of the little Jewish captive was moved by her master’s 
 suffering. ‘That child’s voice still rings through the ages, and the rich man and the poor, 
 the great and the lowly, may find health and gladness in the rivers of salvation! 
 
ALLS OF THE ABANA, DAMASCUS.—0n the r6th of May, 1894, 
 early in the morning, the artist and one of the editors left Damascus by carriage, 
 pa ssed along the Beyrout road by the Abana River and reached a point about two 
 
 You see a remarkable fig 
 
 C} 
 
 miles from the city, where the above view was taken. 
 tree to the right of the picture, its roots under the water, clinging to the side of the cliff. 
 The tree seems to have little hold upon the earth. It is almost complet 
 the water which covers its roots. As Egypt is the gift of the Nile, so is Damascus the gift 
 of the Abana. The chasm through which the river issues from the Anti-Lebanon is quite 
 narrow. The lofty limestone cliffs on either side are jagged and precipitous. ‘The foaming 
 
 y sustained by 
 
 river, the waving trees, the tall poplars, the exuberant vegetation, present a view unique 
 as it is picturesque. The stream rushe rapidly through its stony channel, and, leaping 
 over the rocks, is torn into a snow-white sheet of water and is at once hidden among 
 luxuriant growths of shrubs and bushes. On it rushes to the broad plain just below, and 
 there begins that network of water-courses for which Damascus is celebrated. The desert 
 lies like a fortification around Damascus. ‘The river is its life. Whatever road was followed 
 in Saul’s journey to Damascus over this desert under the burning sky, the impetuous Hebrew 
 held his course full of the fiery zeal with which Isaiah traveled of yore on his mysterious 
 errand through the same “‘ wilderness of Damascus” and was refreshed by the same waters. 
 
 —282— 
 
\OAD FROM BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS.—This is a scene taken 
 from the point between Damascus and the falls we have just left. We are looking 
 toward a ridge of Anti-Lebanon that slopes down toward the city. The Beyrout 
 road, which connects Damascus with the sea, is one of the finest bits of road- 
 
 making in the world. It was built by a French company about forty years ago. It is 
 macadamized and is kept in as good repair as any street in any American city. The road 
 
 is seventy miles long, passing over the Lebanon Mountains, and the “diligence” goes 
 from Damascus over this road to Beyrout every da: The trip is made in thirteen hours. 
 
 The horses are changed thirteen times. In addition to the ‘‘diligence”’ there passes to 
 
 ° ) 
 
 and from Damascus every day a long train of covered wagons—a great freight train 
 between Europe and Persia, Bagdad and Palmyra. The French Government had a coutract 
 with the Sultan of Turkey under which they controlled this road, but the contract expires 
 within the next two years, and the same company is now building a railway from Beyrout 
 to Baalbec and Damascus and over into the Hauran. By the time the grant of the Turkish 
 Government to the French company expires the same company will have a railway under 
 a new grant from the Sultan. Thousands of men were at work last May building bridges 
 and cutting the railway roadbed through the mountains. One of the editors of this book rode 
 from Damascus to Beyrout in 1863 on the first stage that made the trip in a single day. 
 
 —284— 
 
OFFEE GARDEN, DUMMAR.—In going from Damascus to Dummar,a__ robe, walking from his summer house into the city. Again we meet a mountain prince 
 village near by, we move along the Abana, going through the village of Salahiyeh, coming from his home among the Lebanons on a horse gayly trimmed with golden trap- 
 and in about an hour reach Dummar. Along this road, about midway up the pings. Here comes a Bedouin with dark face, a gun and spear hanging from ! 
 
 ridge of the Anti-Iebanon, are the summer houses of wealthy citizens of Damascus. Then again comes a Druse sheik in gorgeous array, with turban and he 
 
 s a Kurdish shepherd with sheepskin cap. All these travelers < 
 
 carriage drive from Damascus to Dummar. The sky was clear and blue; the birds were the city. The coffee garden, of which we now catch a glimpse, 
 
 singing from the rich foliage which lined the banks of the Abana; breezes from the snow- Abana. Here are cha 
 
 shoulder, 
 y scimitar, 
 e bound for 
 is on the banks of the 
 and tables under a wooden shelter, and the traveler may haye 
 capped Lebanon blew from the west. In all our life we had not enjoyed a more exhilarating black coffee and other refreshments while he listens to the roar of the waters, the hum of 
 ride, Now and then we pass a Damascus merchant, with embroidered turban and flowing bees and the songs of birds. 
 
 Many of these are very attractive and costly, It was on a bright morning that we took a Here con 
 
 —28:— 
 
AM AT DUMMAR.—As the traveler approaches Damascus by the French 
 road from Beyrout after miles of desert with no glimpse of tree or st rub, the road 
 suddenly descends into the Barada and follows the river-side to the entrance of 
 
 1 ater contrast if there had been a 
 
 Damascus. ‘The scenery could not present a g 
 change of worlds, from the pare, blistering, rocky upland to the cool, green gorge, where 
 ; dip their branches in the sparkling waters. We pass 
 The house of Ab’d el-Kader is seen on 
 
 great trees crowd the river-side and 
 through the little group of villas called Dummar. 
 
 an eminence to the left. His name was before the public in the time of the war between 
 
 the French and the Algerian Bedouins as the leader who was afterwards pensioned by the 
 
 French and consigned to the Damascus district. Here is a picturesque dam across the 
 and bowlders. ‘Trunks of trees floated down and 
 in time of freshet, and now lift their gaunt arms the length 
 s that dash white among them. Just above the dam a rustic 
 summer house has been built at the water’s edge, and projects over it. Here the con- 
 templative Mussulman may sit with his nargileh and smoke and dream to the 
 murmur of the waters. Most of the trees which we see in this picture are 
 young poplars. The scene is restful and one covets the privilege of a day’s stroll in 
 this charming retreat. 
 
 Barada made in primitive fashion,.of log: 
 
 were caught among the ro 
 of the dam and fret the wate 
 
 —286— 
 
UMMER HOUSE OF SHAMIAH.—Dummar is a very popular ple 
 of resort for the Damascenes. In this large public garden is a café. 
 limestone structure, strictly oriental in all that pertains to it. 
 
 e 
 It is a white 
 From the cool, 
 
 shaded porch a flight of stone steps leads to the Abana, which just here divides its 
 waters, to carry life and refreshment to other parts of the garden. Here road and river 
 are flecked with sunlight leading to avenues of deeper shade. ‘The café with its foun- 
 tains, the orange, citron and lemon trees, rose-bushes, tall jessamine, vines and blooming 
 shrubs, its open levans, spacious and lofty rooms on the ground floor and smaller ones 
 above, verandas and projecting balconies, transfer us into the land of oriental story and 
 
 28s 
 
 amid the scenes of the Arabian Nights. Damascus 
 
 is famous above all Syrian 
 cities for its 
 
 cafés and the eminently oriental appearance of the crowds which 
 gather in them. This summer house is a resort of wealthy Jews of Damascus, 
 who claim to be the descendants of its ancient Hebrew 
 have perpetuated their language and religion, their 
 and. costumes from the time of David to the 
 they not — these Hebrews from 
 Occident and of the Orient. 
 What of the Hebrews’ future? 
 
 inhabitants, 
 customs 
 
 and they 
 
 and their 
 present day. And where are 
 the early ages? They fill the cities of the 
 They hold the gold of all lands in their coffers. 
 
 manners 
 
caer 
 ae 
 
 RIDGE AT DUMMAR.—Here is a fine bridge across the Abana built by the hotel with us. here were twenty- 
 French company owning the road between Beyrout and Damascus. The masonry from Constantinopie. They were holding conferences and making excursions into the 
 of this bridge gives us some idea of the character of the work in this famous French country, getting ready to continue their railroad from Damascus still further into the 
 turnpike. ‘he stone pillars are wide and strong and are built to stand forages, Sultan’s dominion. The French are a polite and adroit people, and seem to understanc 
 
 in complete contrast with the work of the natives. The Damascenes have no public spirit, better than any other nationality the disposition of the Turk. 
 no enterprise, and their architecture is ofa temporary character. They live for the present looking to the northwest. 
 and think little of the future. ‘he French have introduced their civ 
 
 five or thirty of them, accompanied by a high official 
 
 In the picture above we are 
 This bridge was built about forty years ago for the Beyrout 
 ization in this part road, which we have already described. What the French have done for Syria, the 
 of Syria to such a great extent that one will not be surprised at their ultimate occupation English are doing for Egypt. And better is this for both than that Turkey should con- 
 ofthe country. French capitalists and French engineers were at Damascus at the same tinue to hold sway. 
 
 —2838— 
 
a Ce ane 
 
 ae 
 
 BANA RIVER AT TOLL-GATE, DAMASCUS.Here we stand 
 at the foot of Anti-Lebanon. ‘The rocks of that great mountain rise up directly 
 from the river bank. Three Damascus merchants, in their flowing robes, are 
 standing at the end of the little bridge which here crosses the river. The bridge 
 
 itself is in Sharp contrast with the work of the French. This is about a mile from the city 
 of Damascus. ‘The picture of the Damascus merchant strolling out of the city and now 
 going back over this frail bridge brings us into contact with the every-day life of the people. 
 Their customs are to them as rational as ours; their costumes are far more graceful and 
 They manage in their own way their business enterprises. 
 
 convenient, They seem, in a 
 
 way 
 
 , to enjoy the beauty of nature. They have their families on which they lavish affection 
 as we do. As with us, so with them, life is made up of a series of experiences reaching 
 through days and weeks and years. They live, they meet difficulties, they suffer, they 
 
 endure, they dream of the future, they experience the pangs of conscience, and haye, in 
 
 their own way and under their own religious theories, a way of comforting themselves in 
 the time of their sorrow. Looking up, they trust in their God; looking forward, they hope fora 
 better estate in the life to come; and while unlike us inso many ways of life, they belong tothe 
 same family, are redeemed by the same Savior, and multitudes of them will no doubt come 
 through His grace into the same blessed abode toward which we look with faith and longing. 
 
 —289— 
 
AM, ABANA RIVER.—Here we have another of the crude dams built by 
 the natives for the purpose of turning part of the Abana River into some other 
 channel to water some other part of the plain of Damascus. This view is taken 
 from the Beyrout road. Weare looking toward the north. We see groups of 
 
 slender poplar trees to the right of the picture with a spur of the Anti-Lebanon rising 
 
 The Nile is said to be larger at its source than at its mouth, because the 
 
 beyond them. 
 waters of the Nile are diverted from the main stream for the purpose of irrigation, so that 
 it becomes smaller and smaller as it extends toward the sea. The same is true of the 
 Abana. The artificial canals which are cut at different places along its banks to water the 
 
 country round about make constant levies upon its waters. The largest canal leaving the 
 Abana is from above Damascus. It runs along the hills. northward and is said to pass 
 Tadmor in the wilderness, ‘This channel is seven feet wide and three feet deep. The 
 second channel, which is about twelve feet wide, Torah, leaves the main stream below 
 The natives know so little about these rivers that they have confused some of 
 This is their error. 
 
 Dummar. 
 these channels running from the Abana with the celebrated Pharpar. 
 It is to Abana that Damascus is indebted for its water supply, and therefore for its very 
 existence. It is fromthe River of Life which flows from Mount Zion and Mount Calvary that 
 the race gains strength and by which the world is yet to become as the garden of the Lord, 
 
 —290— 
 
Brennsomnts 
 
 aan ONS 
 
 ne EE 
 
 a 
 
 ‘ee! 
 
 PNgohr eater ne Maun 
 
 ( the Moslems as beer is of the Germans, wine of the French and pulque of the 
 
 Canes GARDEN, ABANA RIVER.— Coffee is the national drink of 
 5) 
 Mexicans. Let us visit an oriental coffee garden. This view is within the walls 
 of Damascus. Here groups of natives will always be found in the afternoon sip- 
 ping from small cups of black coffee and smoking either cigarettes or nargileh pipes. The 
 city is filled with coffee gardens, which are shaded by beautiful trees and adorned by 
 flowering shrubs. Large rose-bushes grow in all of them, and from these gardens the 
 roses are taken which make the famous attar of roses. In daylight these gardens have a 
 half wretched look, but at night they are like scenes of the Arabian Nights. 
 
 One writer 
 
 says: ‘A hundred miniature lamps of every form and color glimmer among the branches of 
 trees above fountains and long balustrades reflected in the river below. Turbaned heads and 
 venerable beards.loom dimly through clouds of smoke ; and here probably on some elevated 
 branch a story-teller is perched reciting, as an oriental only can recite, one of the tales of 
 
 The special charm of 
 Fountains, streams, reservoirs, rills and basins 
 are found in every quarter. ‘They constitute one of the principal attractions of the gardens 
 themselves. The people who throng here for rest and refreshment are seen sitting under the 
 trees, sipping coffee, eating luscious fruit and inhaling fragrant timbak from their nargilehs. 
 
 Antar, or some legend equally ancient, to a crowd of eager listeners.” 
 Damascus is in its abundant supply of water. 
 
 —291— 
 
UPHANIEH, DAMASCUS. —This is a little village in Damascus, toward 
 the northern suburb. Josephus quotes from the historian Nicholaus of Damascus 
 the sayir 
 
 “Abraham remained at Damascus, being a foreigner who came with 
 
 an army out of the land above Babylon called the land of the Caldeans, but after a 
 long time he got up and removed from that country also with his people and went unto 
 the land they call the land of Canaan, but now the land of Judea, and thus when his pos- 
 terity would become a multitude, as to which posterity of his we relate their history in 
 another work. Now the name of Abraham is still famous in the country of Damascus, and 
 there is shown a village named from him the ‘ Habitation of Abraham.’ ” 
 tion is made of Damascus in the Bible in connection with David, I. 
 
 Another men- 
 Samuel, viii: 3-6. 
 
 Benhadad was one of the great rulers of Damascus. 
 to Damascus to anoint Hazael king. 
 far back to the earliest tim 
 
 Elijah went from the desert of Sinai 
 Thus Damascus reaches in its historic relations 
 When the writer of this note was in Damascus he 
 urged a young Moslem on whom he was calling to come to America and settle down 
 and make his fortune and end his days in that land of progress. 
 
 When these over- 
 tures were translated to the young fellow’s mother, who sat veiled on a divan near 
 by, she lifted up her hands in surprise and indignation and said: ‘What! my son 
 leave Damascus, the mother of the whole earth!’’ Certainly the Damascenes have some 
 on for being proud of this beautiful pearl by the waters and under the heights of 
 Anti-Lebanon. 
 
UPHANIEH, DAMASCUS.— Passing through Bab Tuma, or gate of St. 
 Thomas, at the northeast angle of the city wall, and proceeding eastward a short 
 distance, we find a collection of tombs clustered together in a white-domed build- 
 ing, where rest the remains of the famous Sheik Arlan, a poet of the time of 
 
 Mured Din. If we go through the gate of the tomb eastward a few minutes’ walk will 
 bring us to Suphanieh Garden. The scenery here is beautiful beyond description. You 
 almost fancy that you tread on enchanted ground, the cool waters of the Abana gurgling 
 and glistening on their way, while overhead the branches of the trees interlace 
 flickering shadows below. You can truly say with the poet: 
 
 and cast 
 
 “This region surely is not of earth; 
 Was it not dropped from heaven ? ”’ 
 The drooping branches touching the cool water, the bee in the brier rose, the wind in the 
 poplar, all this labyrinth of leafage so lavish “ checkering the sunshine,” make the 
 place enchanting. Near this is the road leading to the Jobar. ‘It is a sweet, quiet ride,” 
 says Porter; “the winding lanes are shaded by the spreading boughs of magnificent wal- 
 nuts and lined with blooming orchards.”’ Jobar is a favorite resort of wealthy Jews. It is 
 their park and their café. There they spend their long afternoons, often the entire night, 
 under boughs of vine and jessamine. 
 
 93> 
 
6) ILITARY MOSQUE, DAMASCUS. —The military mosque in Da- 
 mascus is on the road leading from Jerusalem through the gate in the west wall. 
 It is a combination of barrack and place of worship. Here the soldiers mingle 
 thoughts of warfare with exercises of devotion to their God. ‘he religion of 
 the Moslem does not beget thoughts of good will and charity. Devotion to God has too 
 little influence upon their morals. Mohammedanism is thought by many who have 
 studied it well to be but organized sensualism. Its subjects move languidly from the 
 harem to the bath and from the bath to the mosque. Of course, in this great system of 
 religion there are men with broader views than the average Moslem, who interpret more 
 
 &) 
 
 liberally its teachings, and who look with innate sympathy toward their neighbors of an- 
 other faith, ready to recognize whatever good may be found in them. The old saying is a true 
 saying: ‘Good in all, and none all good.” 
 not belong to the peculiar faith ors 
 
 We are taught by a thousand teachers who do 
 ect with which we are connected; the broad heavens 
 and the glorious sun teach us ; the impulses of our humanity teach us ; the great sages of all 
 faiths and of all times have given expression to sentiments which belong equally to the race 
 and to every century, and above our narrow limits we can all rise to some lofty altitude from 
 which we see how slight are the lines which divide men, and how souls bent on the service 
 of men and the glory of God do come together into a blessed and beautiful brotherhood. 
 
 —294— 
 
ent 
 
 Bi. 
 eerrernen 
 
 dise of the Arabian world. ‘‘It is not expected,” says Dr, Smith, ‘‘that Westerners 
 should feel the charm of the waters of Damascus as the desert Bedouin does.” 
 Coneybear, in his ‘Life and Epistles of St. Paul,” says: ‘‘ Damascus for miles 
 around is a wilderness of gardens, wild roses among beautiful shrubbery, with fruit on the 
 branches overhead. Everywhere among the trees the murmur of unseen rivulets is heard. 
 Even in the city, which is in the midst of the garden, the clear rushing of the current is a 
 perpetual refreshment.” In St. Paui’s day there were no cupolas and no minarets. Jus- 
 tinian had not built St, Sophia and the Khalifs had erected no mosque, but the white 
 
 Ot ISLAM, DAMASCUS. —The gardens of Damascus are the para- 
 
 buildings gleamed then as now in the midst of a verdant, incomparable paradise of gardens. 
 The garden we see above is in the open court of the residence of the Sheik Islam. Pass- 
 ing along on the street, nothing on the outside would indicate the beauty within. We 
 made inquiry if the sheik would permit us to enter and take a picture of his garden. He 
 granted our request. He was sitting on the veranda looking out on the fountain. A little 
 girl was playing among the flowers and a dog was quietly resting beside the little lakelet 
 in which the large roses were mirrored. A lovely picture it was at the time, hugely en- 
 joyed by artist and writer, and a source of genuine pleasure when reviewed through the 
 power of the photographic art. 
 
 —295— 
 
OFFEE GARDEN, DAMASCUS. — This 
 in another of the numerous coffee gardens of Dam The women whom we 
 see are Christi This is manifest from the fact that their faces are uncovered. 
 It is not thous e at all in Damascus for the women to smoke. Kyven 
 
 Christian women do that. now in the city of Damascus a population, according 
 to recent good authority, of one hundred and eighty thousand. Twenty thousand of the: 
 are Christians, eight thousand Jews and the rest Mohammedans 
 
 not as fanatical as it y thirty Oo. 
 
 who visit the city eve ar i 
 
 sene taken by our artist 
 cus. 
 
 adually tending to give the natives a better opinion of 
 
 COPYRIGHT eIe2Y REM. BAIN 
 
 the Christians. The influence of trade i 
 to be a center of trade. We have here a specimen of the n 
 oten. Through its amber mouthpiece the smoke p 
 the top, where the toba i 
 
 also felt. More and mor amascus coming 
 
 rgileh, of which we speak so 
 s into the mouth from a cup on 
 
 hted by a coal of fire, thr nh the perfumed water in the 
 palatable. How finely thesé trees reach over toward the river! 
 fhments in Damascus are not confined to és and dens, numerous as these 
 places are in the city. In these places one hears oriental musi i instruments, 
 
 bur: s castinets 
 
 bulb below, and is ver 
 
 of song, a violin, flutes, tambourine, kettle-drum, a harp, an 
 
 areadded. But these people know nothing of harmony. 
 
 —296— 
 
where the soldiers pray and drill. In this picture we see the café on the banks of 
 the Abana where the soldiers lunch and sip coffee and smoke. One would sup- 
 pose from the number of cafés that the people do little else than smoke and 
 In truth, a large part of their time is spent in this way. 
 
 (GP Ptire the wie CAFE, DAMASCUS.—We saw the military mosque 
 
 drink. 
 asort of drinking place. ‘ none East 
 the proprietor asks the customer Until coffee is brought and 
 d no attempt is made to strike a bargain. This government café is perhaps the 
 serve ‘ : ; “a t 
 largest and best furnished in Damascus. In connection with the coffee and nargileh pipe 
 ges 
 
 Every house or shop is 
 Upon entering a carpet or silk shop one of the first questions 
 if he will have coffee. 
 
 kept at this place we find a great variety of sweets, candies, jellies, etc., and there is no 
 candy in the world so sweet and highly flavored as are the candies of Damascus. This 
 place presents an extraordinary spectacle when the caravans and pilgrims are about to take 
 their departure for M 1. Would you make acquaintance with the descendants of Ish- 
 mael? They can be seen in every coffee house, with their sharp features and swarthy 
 skin. Their lithe and slender figures, clad in simple but primitive garments, resemble 
 very much those of Abraham and those of his household when sojourning in this vicinity. 
 Would you see a veritable habitation of the Hebrew? You will find groups of them in 
 the Jewish quarter. ‘The old world and the old life are still to be found in D. 
 
 amascus, 
 
 —297— 
 
HE PALMYRA ROAD.—The broad, well-paved road running from the gate- 
 way of St. Thomas is the great caravan route to Palmyra. We drove out a little 
 Wey, on this road, and the view above was secured by our artist soon after le aving 
 the Damascus wall. It is a four days’ trip from Damascus to Palmyra, a distance 
 
 of one hundred and fifty miles—a tedious journe 
 
 attended with considerable peril, for the road lies 
 ouin Arabs of a peculiarly vicious tribe. Before long, however, travelers can go from Da- 
 mascus to Palmyra by railway. Already cars are running seventy-five miles beyond Da- 
 jmascus into the Hauran, and soon the line will swing northeastward to Palmyra, which is 
 
 7, and usually made on camels. It is also 
 a dreary desert infested by Bed- 
 
 acros 
 
 one of the gems of Sy 
 
 ia, Noruins in the country can compare with those found in this city 
 of Zenobia. ‘The well-shaded road leading toward Palmyra from Damascus is sometimes 
 called the Aleppo road, and opens at length into fields bright with wild flowers. ‘The traveler 
 will see the black tents, the famous mares and the vast flocks of camels of the Arabs; he can 
 hear their music, their gossip, their tales of love and war; he me tudy their customs, their 
 domestic economy, their mode of life. One sometimes wonders how far the Occidental 
 civilization brought into the heart of the Orient will affect the sons of the desert. Verily, it 
 can do little permanent good unless accompanied by the simple Gospel of His grace who at 
 the first reached the Occident from the Orient and made us what we are. 
 
 —298— 
 
6) ILL ON JERUSALEM ROAD, DAMASCUS.—tThe old Jerusalem 
 road from the Holy City to Damascus is but little traveled and is neither safe 
 Between the shore of the Sea of Galilee and the plain of 
 Damascus we pass but one inhabited village. While we are not able to identify 
 
 the spot of Saul’s conversion, the scenery of plain, mountain, river and sky is substantially 
 
 nor interesting. 
 
 unaltered. Near this sacred spot is this old mill in the suburbs of Damascus. ‘The artist 
 and his associate reached Damascus after a hot ride through the desert. We started from 
 Beitima, about twenty miles from Damascus, at three o’clock in the morning. ‘The stars 
 deep and thick filled the Syrian sky. Our path was narrow and rough. ‘The dragoman 
 forbade us talking until the sun was up. He said, if robbers were lying in wait and heard 
 
 horses’ hoofs and no talking, they would assume that the party was composed of soldiers 
 and would not attack us; but the voices of foreigners would expose us to robbery, and 
 possibly death. Such warning guaranteed perfect silence. The way for ten miles south 
 of Damascus was extremely dusty and the weather hot. We were glad enough to see the 
 gardens and the waters of the city, and we stood for a time in sight of this old mill on the 
 edge of the city of Damascus. ‘Travelers on this road are likely to see a string of camels 
 bearing wheat of Auranitis, Bedouin cavaliers from the eastern deserts armed with long 
 lances; and peasants driving their yokes of oxen with sharp goads. ‘These goads illustrate 
 Jesus’ words to Saul when he appeared near this very spot: ‘It is hard for thee to kick 
 against the goads.” 
 
 —299— 
 
DOPYR ICH 
 
 ILITARY ROAD, DAMASCUS.—In 1516 A. D. Damascus was taken 
 by the Turks, and it has belonged to them since that time with the exception 
 of a few years when it belonged to the Pasha of Egypt. All military authority 
 belongs to the Turks. This is the principal garrison of Syria. The road we see 
 
 is called the military road because the soldiers use it to exercise their horses. It runs 
 along one of the channels of the Abana River. The walls along the way are of old brick; 
 beautiful trees overhang; and here is a very old plane tree whose branches have for 
 centuries shaded the street along which Abraham perhaps wended his way while he was 
 ruler of Damascus. ‘The soldiers to-day may be seen riding along this road at almost all 
 hours mounted on good Arab horses, and it must be confessed that foreigners are not sorry 
 
 to see plenty of these protectors. Peace is kept here only by force. The people are 
 ignorant and fanatical, and are conceited enough to imagine themselves superior to all the 
 rest of the world. ‘Their religious convictions have no tendency to abate their belligerent 
 nature, Without the slightest twinge of conscience they could at any time rise and rob 
 and murder all the foreigners. The Turkish soldiers, therefore, represent whatever of law 
 and western civilization there may be in the present government. The Syrians despise 
 the Turks, and it is only by the presence of the army that the Sultan keeps the natives 
 under the dominion of Constantinople. Roman road-making was actively going on at the 
 time of Saul’s visit to Damascus and it is probable that the persecutor entered Damascus 
 by the way of the Merj and the military road. 
 
 —300— 
 
ARs 
 
 TREET OF GCD, DAMASCUS. -—In the streets of Damascus every 
 Eastern nation and tribe have their representatives. Damascus merchants with flow- 
 ing robe and embroidered turban; Turkish effendis decked in a caricature of Frank 
 
 costume badly made and worse put on; mountain princes trotting along in crimson 
 jackets covered writ gold embroidery ; Bedouins, spare in form and dark in visage, their 
 piercing eyes glancing stealthily on all who meet them ; Druse sheiks arrayed gorgeously 
 in silk robes interwoven with thread of gold, and turban of white; Kurdish shepherds in 
 sheepskin caps; stately Persians with long white robes and flowing beards—these are 
 the classes one is likely to see in the vicinity of the bazaars—‘a perpetual banquet of 
 
 color.’’ In the center of the city the houses bear evidence of thrift and cleanliness. There 
 is an extensive suburb on the south side of the city through which a broad street runs, 
 and at its extremity what is called the ‘Gate of God,” by which the pilgrim caravan 
 leaves and enters the city in state every year. Many of the leading streets to Damascus 
 are covered, but this one is open. 
 
 The uninviting exterior of the houses is not to be taken 
 as an indication of their interior furnishing and decoration. The Damascenes care little 
 for the outward appearance of their houses, but. within flowers grow in profusion, 
 
 fountains from the Abana play, and elegantly furnished reception rooms and parlors 
 provide comfort and luxury for the inmates. 
 
 —301— 
 
HE HANGMAN’S TREE, DAMASCUS, —This tree is one of the 
 
 curiosities of the city. It grows not far from the public square in one of the 
 crowded streets. It isa plane tree with deciduous palmate leaves and whitish bark. 
 It is said that the plane tree was highly esteemed in ancient Greece, and that “the 
 youth of Greece were accustomed to assemble under the shade of the plane tree in the 
 groves of Academus to receive lessons in philosophy.’’ The immense gnarled branches of 
 this great plane tree bear the mark of-hoary antiquity, and its trunk is nearly forty feet in 
 It is not far from the citadel, and one of its branches has been used as a 
 
 circumference. 
 The cedar, the plane and the palm tree of the Lebanon and 
 
 gallows for public execution. 
 
 the desert are justly celebrated, and it is to be regretted that in central and southern Palestine 
 the palm and the plane have almost disappeared, though they were once the glory of Jericho 
 and of other ancient cities. What a lesson the great plane tree of Damascus has preached 
 here quite unheeded during all the centuries of its noble growth! It rises from these dirty 
 streets and dingy houses into purer airs and sunny skies without a spot on its emerald 
 garments or a distortion of its vigorous branches. It was in this way that Christianity 
 began in the city of Damascus, and it has grown until its leaves cast their shadows over 
 millions of human hearts, and from it descend both bloom and balm for the blessing of 
 those who put themselves under its protecting influence. 
 
 —302— 
 
The 
 waters we see are, of course, the waters of the Abana. Flour mills in Palestine, 
 and throughout Syria, are primitive in their construction. The machinery will not 
 bear a moment’s comparison with that of the mills of Europe and America. As Cuvier 
 
 was able to construct a fish if a single scale were furnished him, soa single mill in the 
 
 Orient furnishes a clew to the character of Eastern civilization. The mills of Syria are 
 
 parts of a larger whole. They represent a low and degraded civilization. But a higher 
 
 type of social, civic, industrial and commercial life is gradually revealing itself under 
 
 The railroads which the French are building in Syria contradict all 
 
 LOUR MILL, DAMASCUS.—This is in the northern part of the city. 
 
 these oriental skies. 
 
 the old-time ideas of the Syrians. It isa serious question whether the Moslem popula- 
 tion can survive the introduction of these material facilities of Western civilization. They 
 will die out as modern mills and railways, water-works, telegraphs and telephones come 
 into their old land, and with these marks of improvement relating to the external man 
 come the quickening, refining and strengthening influence and agencies of the whole 
 Christian system, which is at the root of all Occidental progress. Christianity makes use of 
 the resources of nature; it depends, as almost all other systems, on what is original and essen- 
 tial—the flowing waters of the Abana, the electrical energies present in the atmosphere, the 
 fertility of the soil; but the new makes a wiser use of the old than did the old civilization. 
 
 —303— 
 
: 
 - 
 
 ee 
 
 ie Dae RO 
 
 IL MILL, DAMASCUS.—Damascus is famous for its culture of the olive. 
 In the suburban gardens and groves we find olive trees in great abundance. The 
 olive is of slow growth and bears no fruit until the seventh year, but it will con- 
 tinue to yield its fruit until extreme old age. For twenty generations the owner 
 
 gathers fruit from the faithful old patriarch. ‘The olive is the most prodigal of all fruit- 
 
 bearing trees in flowers. It bends under the weight of them, but not one in a hundred 
 comes to maturity. ‘The tree casts them off as if they were of no more value than flakes of 
 snow, which they closely resemble. In ancient times generally, and in some places at the 
 present day, olives were ground into pulp in large stone basins by rolling a heavy stone 
 wheel over them, and the oil was expressed in stone presses established near by. This 
 method of getting the oil reminds one of Job’s statement: ‘‘ The rock poured out rivers of 
 
 oil.” The above picture is of an oil mill in the suburbs of Damascus 
 pickled olive berryas arelish. It furnishes the oil for nearly all the cooking which is done 
 in the East. There is an old saying: ‘‘ When the oil fails the lamp in the dwelling of the 
 poor expires.”” Early in the autumn the berries begin to drop by themselves or 
 are shaken off by the wind. They are allowed toremain under the trees for some 
 time guarded by the watchmen of the town; then a proclamation is made by the 
 governor, and the owners of the olive trees gather the fallen berries. After this 
 gathering by the owners the poor are permitted to glean all that they can, reminding 
 us of the command: ‘When thou beatest thine olive tree thou 
 over the boughs shall be for the stranger, 
 widow.” 
 
 People eat the 
 
 shalt not go 
 
 again; it the fatherless and the 
 
 {oli 
 
mean- 
 ing elder or eldest, is a title of dignity belonging to the chiefs of the Arabian tribes. 
 It is 
 Customs do not 
 The same form of government by 
 The 
 
 © OF SHEIK ISLAM, DAMASCUS. —The term “sheik,” 
 
 It is applied also to the head of the monastery among the Mohammedans. 
 also the title of a religious person who preaches in the mosques. 
 
 change for thousands of ye 
 which the sheik could speak with aores y has existed since the time of Abraham. 
 tomb of Sheik Islam in Damascus is one of no ordinary character. ‘The garden is 
 inclosed by a high wall, and the approach Within the inclosure are 
 three structures with domes of masonry, the mausoleum of the saint being surmounted by 
 The quiet seclusion of this place, in the northeastern part of 
 
 carefully guarded. 
 
 a glittering crescent. 
 
 Damascus, is enhanced by its beautiful trees and flowering shrubs. As in all 
 
 rey- 
 erent religions, so among the Moslems, the dead, especially the dead who in life 
 were distinguished by piety, are greatly honored. Between the theory which gives 
 a spiritual value to relics and tombs and the delicate appreciation of departed 
 
 merit there is a vast difference. The thoughtful and cultivated Christian whose 
 faith is in God and the work of His Holy Spirit goes to these silent places of 
 the dead to recall their virtues and to look forward to their reward and to the hoped 
 for reunion of true souls in the kingdom eternal. ‘This conception is the sancti- 
 fication of the natural and human relationship, and is wholly freed from all taint 
 of superstition. 
 
 —305— 
 
Syesiaet 
 fae 
 
 | 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 T. PAUL’S GATE.— Bab esh Sherki, the eastern gate of Damascus, is some- 
 times called St. Paul’s Gate, as it is supposed that through it St. Paul, then called 
 
 Saul, entered the street called Straight, and was led to the house of Judas. It is an 
 ancient Roman portal, with three arches. The central and southern arches are 
 
 now built up. The northern arch now in use is concealed by the Saracenic gate, at right 
 angles to it. Immediately outside the gate we see a large tower which is said to have 
 been erected in the early ages of Mohammedan rule. These battlements are surmounted 
 by a tapering minaret. This picture was taken by our artist from outside of the wall, and 
 the ground we see is said to have been the site of furnaces for the manufacture of those 
 finely glazed and richly colored tiles and finished vessels for which Damascus was once 
 
 celebrated. If one has courage enough to ascend the dilapidated stairway of the tower 
 in sight, a fine view of the city and its surroundings may be obtained. ‘There must have 
 been quite a collection of Jews in Damascus at the time of Saul’s arrival with his com- 
 s, and they probably occupied this part of the city. It has 
 tian quarter,’ and was prosperous and well built before 
 
 mission from the high pri 
 since been known as the “‘ Chr 
 the cruel massacre and devastation of 1860. Damascus was the city of Saul’s spiritual 
 change. Here he was brought out of darkness into light; here his wrath and hate were 
 changed to love and mercy. Beyond this gate he went out into the Arabian desert, leay- 
 ing a paradise behind him, that he might ‘‘endure hardness as a good soldier,” and be 
 
 trained for his spiritual warfare by the Lord alone. 
 
 —306 — 
 
LACE WHERE ST. PAUL WAS LET DOWN.- Paul was not 
 J destined to be the evangelist of the East. His retirement in Arabia was not of 
 long continuance. The time from his conversion to his final departure from 
 Damascus is said not to have exceeded three years. Meanwhile, he had 
 returned to Damascus, preaching boldly in the name of Jesus. ‘The Jews, being no longer 
 able to meet him in controversy, resolved to assassinate him. A111 due precautions were 
 taken to evade the danger, for Saul had become acquainted with the conspiracy. ‘The 
 Jews watched the gates of Damascus to waylay and destroy Saul. The church continued 
 in prayer for him. In the night from some overhanging house he was let down from a 
 window ina basket. Along the southeast angle of the wall of Damascus is Bab Kisan—a 
 
 gate which has been walled up for many centuries, and the wall has been rebuilt several 
 times. Monkish tradition still points to the wall between the round tower and the gate 
 west of it as the place from which Saul was let down at the time of his escape from the 
 hands of the governor, ‘The monks have recently located in this vicinity the spot where 
 Saul was converted. In front of this gate is a tomb, said to be that of St. George, who 
 aided the apostle in his flight, The walls of the old city could not contain the apostle; 
 the enemies who had the open gates watched day and night could not arrest and slay him, 
 because he had a mission beyond Damascus, beyond Jerusalem, beyond Antioch, beyond 
 Ephesus, beyond Macedonia, beyond Athens and Corinth; for in the city of Rome itself 
 he was destined to proclaim the Gospel of the crucified Nazarene. 
 
 —307— 
 
from the time 
 
 of Saul’s conversion that he left Damascus by flight to make his way to Jerusalem. 
 s I went up to Jerusalem to see Peter, and abode with him 
 
 fifteen days.’’—Galatians, i: 18. Damascus at this time belonged to the king of 
 Petra, and Aretas was king. ‘To conciliate the Jews, it is supposed by Lewin, he had 
 invested their council and chief officers, called the ethnarchs, with supreme power over 
 their own people. So it is thought a charge was made against Saul to the ethnarch, and 
 he, as the representative of the Jewish nation, issued the warrant by which he was to be 
 apprehended. It is not known by what route Saul returned to Jerusalem. The most 
 direct would have led him by way of the Sea of Galilee, where Tiberius lived—the 
 At the time St. Paul passed here— A. D. 39—the city 
 
 G HE WALLS OF TIBERIAS.~—It was during the third y 
 
 “Then after three y 
 
 king of the Galilean province. 
 
 represented the Roman Empire, then in control of the world. St. Paul represented the 
 crucified King of the eternal kingdom to be. We have before us a glimpse of the broken 
 walls of that representative Roman city. It is in ruins now —symbol of the broken power 
 which sought to destroy the uprising Kingdom of God. War, pestilence, storm, earth- 
 quake, have rent the wall and practically prostrated the old Roman center. The 
 warm fountains and the frequent earthquakes show that the elements of destruc- 
 at work beneath the surface. It is a city without a future, and 
 the memories that hallow it are memories not of the Roman king, his palace 
 and his power, but of the gentle and mighty Messiah who preached by the sea- 
 wrought His wonders on its waters and among the people who lived 
 
 tion are still 
 
 side and 
 
 about it. 
 
 —308— 
 
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a 
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 rem ae = a kg 
 
 IDON FROM THE SEA. ~—Saida, the modern representative of Sidon, is 
 
 © situated on the northwestern slope of the little promontory which projects obliquely 
 
 into the sea. Sidon is not only the most ancient city of Phcenicia, but one of the 
 
 most ancient cities of the world, being mentioned in the book of Genesis. Accord- 
 
 ing to Josephus, it was founded by Sidon, the oldest son of Canaan and great-grandson of 
 Noah. Homer celebrates it in the Iliad. The town now contains few attractions. The 
 harbor is interesting. At the northeast end of the town a bridge with eight arches crosses 
 to the small island of Kal ’- at el Behr, where are the ruins of the castle of the thirteenth 
 
 century. Tristram calls Sidon ‘‘ The cradle of the world’s commerce, the mother of Tyre.’” 
 As soon as Paul’s brethren learned of the plot to kill him they brought him down to 
 Caesarea and sent him forth to Tarsus. Paul, in speaking of this journey, says: ‘‘I came 
 into the regions of Syria and Cilicia.’’—Galatians, i: 21. It is thought by many scholars 
 that on this trip Paul visited Sidon, where he formed friendships afterwards referred to in 
 Acts, xxvii: 3. The pride of Sidon is its magnificent gardens. Silk and fruit are its 
 staple products. Beyond the town, green plain and the lower spurs tower the snowy 
 peaks of Lebanon. 
 
 —310— 
 
yy 
 
 ik RUMiBS 
 
 Tarsus, he passed perhaps near or in sight of Beyront, and if he went all the way 
 by land he doubtless, in following the coast road, would pass through Beyrout. At 
 that time, A. D. 39, Beyrout must have been a town of some note. It is now the 
 most important commercial town in Syria and the situation is exceedingly beautiful. ‘The 
 rosy tint of the mountains contrasting with the deep blue of the sea presents a most 
 picturesque scene by evening light. Beyrout is the old Berytus of the Greeks and Romans. 
 The first historical notice dates as far back as 140 B.C. In the above picture we are look- 
 
 Ome BEYROUT.—If St. Paul went by sea all the way to the port of 
 ® 
 
 ing southward, the mountains of the Lebanon lying to the right. The artist and one of 
 the editors reached the city from Damascus on Friday, the 18th of May, 1894. We had the 
 good fortune to fall into the hands of our American consul, the Hon. Thomas R. Gibson, 
 at Beyrout. He rendered us great service. Upon landing from the sea at Beyrout the 
 traveler enters upon a bustling scene and a Babel of tongues falls upon his ear. Numbers 
 of boats with fantastically dressed occupants dance upon the waves round our vessel; 
 scores of porters shout their deep gutturals into the ears of impotent travelers as if an 
 excess of sound would render their tongue intelligible. 
 
 —31I— 
 
ISHERMEN’S HOUSES, BEYROUT.—Beyrout was celebrated in the 
 third century as a seat of learning. Students flockéd to her from all parts of the 
 known world. It is said that Gregory Thaumacturgus even passed by Athens and 
 Alexandria to study law at this place. It continued to be a seat of learning until 
 
 the year 551, when the city was destroyed by an earthquake. It is now the most modern 
 looking city in the East and contains a population of one hundred and ten thousand. 
 The European appearance which Beyrout presents and its prosperity are entirely owing to 
 the foreign influence. The principal article of export is raw silk, and Lebanon is in fact 
 
 becoming one vast mulberry plantation. 
 and its be 
 
 Fishing has become one of its chief industries, 
 y is just such a harbor as fishermen appreciate and delight in. ‘he fisheries are 
 extensive and profitable. The Syrian Protestant College, established many years ago by the 
 Presbyterians, has been one of the most important factors in the prosperity of this Syrian 
 city. Cultivated and earnest men have devoted themselves with marvelous diligence, 
 ability and fidelity to the work of educating the young Syrians, es ecially from the mountains 
 of Lebanon, who have come to them. Teachers, ministers, business men, are now scattered 
 all through Syria and Asia Minor, the products of this admirable institution of learning. 
 
 —312— 
 
ANDY-SELLER, BEY ROUT.— The sweetmeats and the candies of Syria 
 
 Cc are famous. In the above view we see how they are distributed. In a large tray 
 the peddler carries the candy on his head. When he sees a chance to sell his 
 
 wares he puts down the framework which you see on his arm and at once begins 
 business. If trade is not sufficiently brisk he finds it a very easy matter to move again, 
 calling out meanwhile to the crowd the kinds, qualities and delight of the sweet things 
 he would sell them. In passing through the crowded streets and bazaars of this semi- 
 European and semi-Oriental town it is both interesting and amusing to notice the number 
 and variety of the street cries from the bread-sellers, the candy-sellers and the carriers of 
 
 water, whose occupation is one of slavish toil, sometimes carrying as they do a water 
 
 bottle made out of the whole skin of an ox. ‘The shrill cries of warning uttered, 
 now in front, now behind, now on this side, now on that, all combine to make 
 a Babel of discordant sounds; and yet, what a perfect paradise for the artist, the 
 relic-hunter or the antiquarian! The bread-seller cries ‘‘Ya karim! Ya karim!” 
 which is not the name for the bread, but which implies ‘Gift of the bountiful 
 one.’? The water-carrier, jingling his copper saucer to attract attention, cries 
 “Ishrub ya ’atshan! Ishrub ya ’atshan!’’ the meaning of which is ‘Drink, O 
 thirsty.” 
 
 =313— 
 
ALLS OF BEYROUT.— This beautiful waterfall is se 
 miles up the bay from the city of Beyrout. Through the kindness 
 of our American consul we had the pleasure of a ride to this 
 place through the planted for the si 
 
 industry of Beyrout. It is a place of public resort. You find the crowd 
 
 with the Oriental nargileh pipe and a drink tasting something like a 
 
 mixture of camphor and peppermint. This picture was taken the 
 
 afternoon of May 19, 1894. ‘The main permanent source of the 
 
 Beyrout River (nahr Beirtit, the classical Magoras) is a remitting 
 
 fountain in the bed of the stream below Deir el Kfil’ah. The river 
 
 drains a portion of the plain and that magnificent sweep of lofty 
 
 mulberry orchards 
 
 mountains including Jebel Keniseh and Sfinnin—a wild and woody 
 region abounding in scenery of great natural beauty. At certain 
 seasons of the year the amount of water is very small, but in the rainy 
 on the shallow stream is swollen to a broad and turbid river, 
 sweeping everything before it and giving to the water of the bay for 
 miles out to sea a partly reddish color. This same cool mountain 
 stream which falls over natural rocks and rushes through shady glens 
 was once the supply of water for the ancient aqueduct which was 
 designed to carry the water to the highest terraces in the suburbs of 
 Beyrout. These waters conducted to the city brighten and fertilize the 
 fields of mulberry, the vineyards and the olive groves of Beyrout, 
 
 Ss 
 
 —314— 
 
HE DOG RIVER, BEY ROUT,.-— 0n the 29th of May, 1894, the American 
 consul at Beyrout, the Hon. Thomas R. Gibson, of Augusta, Ga., called for the 
 artist and the editor of this volume, who accompanied him through the East that 
 year, and took them by carriage to Dog River, now known as the Nahr el-Kelb, the 
 
 same as the ancient Lycus. The road over which we passed follows the windings of the 
 
 bay northward. We saw on our ride the church of St. Elias, said to be the oldest place 
 
 © 
 
 of Christian worship in existence. After a ride of about six miles we reached the river. 
 On the way we also saw the famous water-works which supply Beyrout with water from the 
 snows of Lebanon. The works are operated by an English company. ‘The Dog River is 
 
 a large stream, flowing with great rapidity. It has its sources in the Mount Jebel Sunnin. 
 It enters the sea between rugged, steep and lofty precipices about seven miles to the north- 
 east of Beyrout. The scenery of this mountain gorge is romantic and impressive. The 
 mountains extend out to the sea, so that on the north there is only a narrow, rocky passage 
 along the shore, while on the south the ramparts jut out still further, and an ancient 
 artificial road six feet in breadth is hewn in the rock, sometimes fifty feet above the 
 water, for the distance of a mile. ‘There are many curious inscriptions cut into the 
 solid rock on tablets indicating the successive administration of Egyptian and Syrian 
 dynasties. 
 
ee 
 
 HE BAY OF ST. GEORGE. — We have in the above picture our last view 
 of the bay of St. George, around which stands the ancient and lovely city of 
 Beyrout. We see gardens, houses, the peaceful bay, the shipping and the coast 
 range of Lebanon. ‘This bay is called after St. George, concerning whom there are 
 
 legends and legends. ‘The old story of St. George and the dragon is familiar to all. 
 
 Tradition says that near this the dragon was killed, and that afterwards St. George washed 
 
 his hands in the waters of the bay. ‘There is a poetic charm in these bays that let themselves 
 
 into the shore, making the wider sea accessible, and receiving the contributions of streams 
 from the yalleys and the mountains. With our artist, we left this beautiful and most modern 
 city of Syria on the 20th of May, 1894. We had great difficulty in getting through the 
 
 custom house our boxes of glass plates used in the camera during our oriental journey. 
 The Turkish officials insisted upon opening them, fearing, as they said, that we might 
 be attempting to take ancient relics out of the country, which the Turkish law most 
 emphatically prohibits. Our genial and accommodating American consul made use of 
 his fullest influence, corroborating the declarations of our dragoman, and, with the 
 help of such financial contribution as we were ready to add, succeeded in persuading 
 the custom-house officials to permit our negatives to pass. Mr, Gibson accompanied 
 us to the steamer, and assured us, as he said good-by, that the American flag 
 would be floating in our honor from the consulate as we bade adieu to the shores 
 of Syria. 
 
 —316— 
 
w@}] ATHY, ISLAND OF SAMOS.— When St. Paul was sent from Jerusalem to 
 
 | Tarsus, Barnabas came from Antioch and brought him to that city, and from 
 Antioch he made his first missionary journey. Barnabas and Paul sailed from 
 Seleucia to Cyprus, from thence to Paphos and to Perga in Pamphylia, to Antioch 
 
 in Psidia, and to Iconium, thence to Lystra and Derbe, and then to Lycaonia. They intro- 
 duced the Gospel into Asia Minor and returned to Antioch. We shall not attempt to follow 
 the apostle in the strict geographical order of his missionary journeys, but will give 
 illustrations of places in Asia Minor without reference to the exact chronological or 
 geographical order of their introduction in the New Testament narrative. Our first view is 
 a picture of Vathy, an important city of Samos. St. Paul was here on his third missionary 
 
 journey. The above picture was taken Tuesday, May 22, 1894. A vo age among the 
 Aigean Islands on a French steamer in the month of May is sufficient reward for a whole 
 lifetime of toil. To sail by Chalce and Syme, Telos and Nisyros, Cos and Patmos, 
 Kalyminos and Leros, Astypatzea and Chios, each with its history and legend, its romance 
 and its hero, is adequate compensation for whatever else one may lack on this earth. These 
 isles, sprinkled through the sea, treeless and bare, but lying in the depths of a soft, genial 
 atmosphere, to whose tender embrace they respond with a purple hue, speak to us of 
 Homer and Apelles and Hippocrates and Pythagoras. The homes once of luxury and 
 refinement, and art and literature, and great men, they are now but the lonely and 
 dismantled monuments of a glorious past. 
 
 —317— 
 
ees ri 
 
 = 
 tive 
 
 po ont a 
 
 Ts oan 1 
 
 AKING FREIGHT AT VATHY, SAMOS. —Samos is an island of 
 the Ajgean Sea. It is eighty-seven miles in circumference and is noted as being 
 the birthplace of Pythagoras. When Xerxes invaded Europe the people of Samos 
 assisted the Greeks, and were finally brought themselves under the power of 
 
 Athens, after a revolt in the days of Pericles, B. C. 441. Vathy itself is an important 
 shipping town. Its wine is widely celebrated and is very cheap. The city is well built 
 and clean, and the people are thrifty. Greek ideas and influence predominate. The 
 language of the majority of the people is Greek. ‘The writer was sitting under one of the 
 store awnings near the landing, when two bright boys passed by on their way from school. 
 They stopped for a moment to look at the stranger. I asked one of the boys what book he 
 
 was studying. He did not quite understand me, but handed a book to me. I found that 
 the book was half English and half Greek, arranged in parallel columns. The boys asked 
 me in broken English to read the English column. Finding that I could read English, 
 they remained with me for nearly an hour, urging me to go over several pages so that they 
 could get my pronunciation. There is something significant in the fact that the boys of 
 the East are engaged in the study of the English language. Thus the way is being 
 prepared for English civilization, and, we trust, for a larger degree of English power in the 
 Levant. ‘The above picture was taken on the 22d of May, 1894. ‘There is much life in the 
 picture. The small boats coming out from the shore toward the steamer give a fine idea of 
 a scene which may be enjoyed almost any day in the harbors of the East. 
 
 =a 
 
HIPS AT SMYRNA. — Leaving Vathy, Samos, Tuesday evening, we reached 
 
 Smyrna the next day. Smyrna is the most important city in Asia Minor. It hasa 
 population of from 200,000 to 250,000, of which nearly half are Europeans, a 
 large number of these being Greeks. Nearly all the business of Smyrna is in 
 European hands, ‘The harbor is one of the most beautiful in the world, about two 
 miles wide and six or eight miles long, lying due west from the city. It is so com- 
 pletely land-locked that steamers here are absolutely protected from storms, and vessels 
 from all ports of the world are anchored inthe harbor or moored to the quay. ‘The presence 
 of these steamers from all shores, lying day by day in sight of this city, tends constantly 
 
 to educate the people into cosmopolitan modes of thought and aspiration. Hence, there is 
 little that is provincial observable in the manners or customs or dress of the inhabitants. 
 Having spent several weeks in Syria, where everything is pretty much as it was two 
 thousand years ago, we felt upon reaching Smyrna almost as if we were in an American or 
 European coast city. Shops, stores, streets, together with the people moving and trading 
 upon the streets, reminded us of countries with which we had always been familiar. 
 European hats and styles, both among men and women, were such as we would see in New 
 York orLondon. English is taught in the schools, and we found many of the tradespeople 
 ready to respond in our own language to the questions we asked in English. 
 
 —319— 
 
N THE QUAY, SMYRNA.~—The quay in Smyrna is the street that ex- 
 tends for a mile or more along the harbor—the most important street of the city. 
 Here the people gather after sunset for chat and promenade. The street is more 
 than sixty feet wide, and opposite the quay are handsome business houses and 
 
 residences. In the spring and summer the weather is hot and the whole city seems to turn 
 
 out to get a breath of fresh air at the seaside. They dress for the occasion and remain out 
 until late in the evening. ‘The street seems like a continuous café, with its little tables, its 
 groups of representatives from all nationalities sipping coffee, smoking pipes, eating ices. 
 
 The railway for Ephesus runs down this important water street. We see the ships at 
 
 anchor and at the dock, the mountains in the distance, and the harbor, which at this 
 very time is stirred into lively motion by a vigorous breeze. Smyrna has been ray- 
 aged by conquests, fire and earthquakes again and again; but, like Damascus, it 
 seems to have a charmed life, and lies on its sunny slope facing the blue Ajgean, 
 one of the most beautiful cities of the East. From the castle on Mount Pagos 
 or from the tomb of Polycarp, its first. Christian bishop, the view of the city 
 lying on its terraces, tier below tier, down to the sea, with the mountains across 
 the gulf, and snow-white sails and plying steamers between, makes a picture long to be 
 remembered. 
 
 —320— 
 
USTOMS PIER, SMYRNA.—The Sultan’s Government has a uniform 
 rate of tariff. All goods sent into his dominions are dutiable to the extent of eight 
 nt, and all this without respect to class of material or proprietor. We had 
 occasion to study the question of customs very thoroughly while in Palestine and 
 
 Asia Minor. The eight per cent did not count much in our case, but the constant disposi- 
 tion to inspect our boxes and examine our plates gave us great annoyance. We had a 
 letter of introduction from a leading merchant of St. Louis toa leading 
 Smyrna, and we received from the gentlemen representing it every 
 possible for them to give. We gained some insight, also, into the 
 
 carpet house in 
 attention which it was 
 urkish carpet and rug 
 
 business as carried on in Smyrna and the adjacent country. These rugs bought in the city 
 are woven in the country by the poor people, who make their living by this industry. 
 At this place the pilgrim to the shrines of classic Greece must close his eyes on the 
 crowding representatives of many lands and think. ‘The scene, the shores, the sky, 
 are as beautiful as in the old mythological age, when the galley of Argus sailed 
 these seas in search of the Golden Fleece. One wishes that he could fo 
 all that lies between us and that golden age. 
 
 t nearly 
 
 But peace increases commerce, and 
 now Argonauts from every land are plying these seas in search of the golden fleece of 
 material wealth. 
 
 —321— 
 
We look 
 ~ toward the south and across the harbor to the fine hills beyond. Smyrna is the 
 only Greek city on the west coast of the A’gean which still retains its name and 
 
 which may still be classed among the great cities of the Orient. It is impossible 
 
 for any one to know the early history of this city. It may have been an Ionian colony. 
 About 700 B. C. it did form a part of the great Ionian league. It was at one time a mag- 
 nificent city, one of the first of the world. During the Middle Ages it fell into the hands 
 of the Turks, who still retain it. The city and territory are governed by a pasha. Classic 
 fable connects the city with Tantalus, the celebrated king of Lydia whom the poets repre- 
 sent as being punished with an insatiable thirst and placed up to the chin in a pool of 
 
 MYRNA. —This view is taken from the mountain north of the city. 
 
 water, which flows away as soon as he attempts to taste it. This is one of the cities which 
 claims to have given birth to Homer, and it was the scene of the labors and martyrdom of 
 Polycarp, one of the early and faithful followers of Christ. It was one of the seven 
 churches in Asia to the angel of which Jesus sent a message by John on Patmos. 
 To the angel of the church in Smyrna Jesus said: ‘I know thy works, and tribulation, and 
 poverty (but thou art rich), and I know the blasphemy of them which say they are Jews, 
 and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan. Fear none of those things which thou shalt 
 suffer: behold, the devil shall cast some of you into prison, that ye may be tried; and ye 
 shall have tribulation ten days: be thou faithful unto death, and I will give thee a crown 
 of life.’’—Revelation, ii: 8-10. 
 
 —322— 
 
tomb of Polycarp is pointed out. It is said that Polycarp was the disciple of the 
 apostle John and the bishop of Smyrna. 
 Smyrna, where, according to Irenzeus, his pupil, he was taught the doctrines of 
 
 © OF POLYCARP.—Far up in the mountain overlooking Smyrna the 
 
 It is said that he was brought up in 
 
 Christianity by St. John himself, with whom he enjoyed “familiar intercourse.” ‘This 
 testimony of Irenzeus isimportant, for it connects the apostolic age with that of the church 
 in the second century. Polycarp suffered martyrdom in 166 A. D. under the persecutions 
 of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus. Eusebius, the church historian, reports his martyr- 
 dom: ‘‘ Whenasked, or rather entreated, to revile Christ, Polycarp replied, ‘ Highty and six 
 
 years have I served him and he never did me wrong, and how can I now blaspheme my king 
 who has saved me?’ He was burned alive.’ ‘There is a short epistle which bears the 
 name of Polycarp addressed to the Philippian church, exhorting them to the practice of 
 their Christian duties and the maintenance of the purity of the faith. But there is another 
 writing of that age of which he is the subject. It is the relation of the manner of his death 
 by the church at Smyrna, of which he was the bishop, addressed to the church of Phila- 
 delphia. It is a valuable and interesting memorial. There seems to have been madea 
 wicked attempt to extirpate Christianity in Asia Minor. The persecutions raged with 
 violence at Smyrna. Many Christians were delivered to the lions. 
 
 —323— 
 
ORUM AND PRISON OF ST. PAUL, EPHESUS. — The ride 
 by rail from Smyrna to Ephesus is one of the most interesting features of an oriental 
 tour. It was the privilege of the writer to take this trip. We left Ephesus on 
 Friday, April 24th, by railway ; a basket of provisions having been carefully packed 
 
 by our thoughtful landlord. It was, indeed, a rare privilege to take an oriental picnic 
 from Smyrna to Ephesus. We passed through valleys and over plains ; mountains in the 
 distance; the railway stations attractive and solidly built; caravans of camels seen in the 
 distance coming with steady tread across the plain ; lines of poplar trees, solitary or clus- 
 tered cypress trees, with groves of olives, and here and there a farm-house. About three 
 hours after leaving Smyrna we reached Aysalook, the terminus of the road at that time, 
 
 22 
 
 32. 
 
 and in reality modern Ephesus. We spent several hours in wandering o ver the ruins of 
 the old metropolis of western Asia Minor. Since that visit the exploration of Ephesus has 
 gone on, and archeologists can now give an approximately accurate account of the old city, 
 with its port, its mounts, its gymnasium, stadium, walls, gates, forum, theater and 
 temple. The forum, which was southeast of the city port, was surrounded on 
 all sides by important public buildings. A place is shown as the prison of St. 
 Paul. Of the identity of this we have no evidence, but everywhere the name 
 and memory and influence of the great apostle give greater charm to the city 
 of the past and its ruins in the present than do all other names combined in 
 
 its entire history. 
 
 4— 
 
QUEDUCT AT EPHESUS.— One of the most wonderful cities of ancient 
 
 (© times was Ephesus. It is a heap of ruins to-day, but it was once the glory of the 
 plain on which it rose, and of the mountains that overshadowed it, and to the sides 
 
 of which it clung. A beautiful sea stretched out from its presence toward the 
 setting sun. ‘The whole land that lay back of it, the islands that dotted the classic sea in 
 front of it, the distant cities and shores that sent their rich and varied commerce to its 
 gates—all these knew of it, and praised and patronized it. Splendid city! Rich and 
 iheewe. crowded with peoples of all lands and tongues, full of pomp and pleasure, full of sin 
 and idolatry! Caravans of camels came from afar into its gates from the east, and fleets 
 
 of ships passed into its ample harbor on the west. ilence reigns over the empty 
 plain. The desolate hills echo to the cry of wild birds and wild beasts. ‘The ruins of 
 houses and temples are buried under the surface, and but for the enterprise of eager 
 scholars in distant lands their very existence had remained a secret. ‘There was in the city 
 a Roman aqueduct which conveyed water to the city of Ephesus from the mountain to the 
 east, traversing the ravine from east to west. It was built in the time of ‘Tiberius, 
 
 as shown by an inscription upon the structure. A view of this is given in 
 “Falkener’s Ephesus;” it forms a pretty architectural feature in the Ephesus 
 
 landscape. 
 
 —325— 
 
ee 
 
 Chee OF ST. JOHN, EPHESUS.— We see here the ancient ruins 
 Ss (and most ancient they are) of the Church of St. John, built at a very early date. 
 In this old city Timothy was a ruling elder or bishop in Ephesus, St. Paul came 
 
 here probably A. D. 54, and John himself, it is said, ended his days in this 
 
 place. Here are to be found to-day the ruins of the temple of Diana, the wonder of wonders 
 in that ancient metropolis. It was regarded as one of the wonders of the ancient world. 
 The citizens were proud of its architectural splendor. It was more to Ephesus than the 
 Cathedral to Milan or St. Peter to Rome. ‘The men of wealth in that age had so much 
 confidence in the security of the building, the honor of its priests andthe grace of its god- 
 dess that they deposited in it for protection their money and their most costly treasure: 
 It is said that at one time the bulk of the wealth of the whole land in which the temple 
 
 But in this city there was a little group of people who did not 
 ints which are in Ephesus and the faithful in 
 These early Christians were protestants against Judaism, 
 idolatry and all useless and pagan ceremonials. These were the people for whom 
 undoubtedly was built the edifice afterwards known as the Church of St. John. ‘They were 
 earnest people who met together for prayer and the reading and hearing of the word, and 
 for conversation about the things of the spiritual kingdom. ‘They worshiped as 
 Christ and his apostles worshiped, with simplicity and fervor. They were the people 
 of God in a great city, a city full of wickedness and idolatry; a handful in the 
 of the the the world of darkness and 
 
 stood was hidden in it. 
 believe in Diana or her worship — “‘ the s: 
 
 Christ Jesus’ — Ephesians, i: 1. 
 
 midst multitude ; cred remnant in 
 
 sin. 
 
 —326— 
 
HILADELPHIA.— Philadelphia is a city of Asia Minor, about one hundred 
 and eight miles from Smyrna, containing a population of about twelve thousand, 
 two thousand of whom are Greeks and the rest Mohammedans. It is now called 
 Allah Shehr, ‘‘the exalted city.”” It was founded by Attalus Philadelphus, king of 
 
 Pergamos, about 200 B. C. Its walls are still standing, inclosing several hills, upon the 
 
 sides of which the town stood. ‘They are built of unhewn stone, massed and cemented 
 
 together with fragments of old buildings. Some immense remains of buildings, huge 
 square stone pillars supporting brick arches, are also standing and are called the 
 ruins of a Christian church. It was to the angel of the church of Philadelphia that Jesus 
 
 said through John in the book of the Revelation, iii: 7-12: ‘“‘I know thy works: behold, I 
 have set before thee an open door, and no man can shut it: for thou hast a little strength, 
 and hast kept my word, and hast not denied my name. * * * Because thou hast kept 
 the word of my patience, I also will keep thee from the hour of temptation, which shall 
 come upon all the world, to try them that dwell upon the earth. Behold, I come quickly: 
 hold that fast which thou hast, that no man take thy crown. Him that overcometh will 
 I make a pillar in the temple of my God, and he shall go no more out : and I will write 
 upon him the name of my God, which is new Jerusalem, which cometh down out of 
 heaven from my God: and J will write upon him my new name.” 
 
 —327— 
 
ENERAL VIEW OF ACROPOLIS AND THEATER, SAR- 
 DIS. — Sardis, now called Sart, was situated on the river Pactolus. ‘The old 
 site is now aswamp. It had a citadel which was remarkable for its strength. It 
 was built on a high hill. Sardis was the capital of the Lydian monarchy. The 
 
 Persian rulers of the country occupied it. The Athenians destroyed it by fire B. C. 503. 
 
 The Romans, later on, ruled it. In the time of Tiberius an earthquake wrecked it, but it 
 
 was rebuilt. There is but little of the old Sardis now. There are extensive ruins of 
 
 theater, temples, walls, stadium, palaces, etc.; but the earth which has gradually rolled 
 down from the high mountain has buried the ancient city. Sardis is twenty-four miles 
 west of Philadelphia, and by rail from Smyrna eighty-four miles. It was to the angel of 
 
 the church at Sardis that Jesus said through John: ‘‘I know thy works, that thou 
 hast a name that thou livest, and art dead, Be watchful, and strengthen the things which 
 remain, that are ready to die: for I have not found thy works perfect before God. Remem- 
 ber therefore how thou hast received and heard, and hold fast, and repent. If therefore 
 thou shalt not watch, I will come on thee as a thief, and thou shalt not know what hour I 
 willcome upon thee. Thou hast a few names even in Sardis which have not defiled their 
 garments; and they shall walk with me in white: for they are worthy. He that over- 
 cometh, the same shall be clothed in white raiment; and I will not blot out his name out 
 of the book of life, but I will confess his name before my Father, and before his angels.” 
 —Revelation, iii: 1-5. 
 
 Sees 
 
above 
 
 OLUMNS IN TEMPLE OF CYBELE, SARDIS.—‘he 
 picture is remarkably fine. It presents two marble columns, with the acropolis of 
 Sardis as a background. The columns rise about thirty-five feet above the surface 
 and reach about twenty feet under ground. And these are all that is left standing 
 
 of the temple of Cybele, the mother of Jupiter. The columns are seven feet in diameter, 
 
 and are fine specimens of Ionic architecture. Sardis was the capital of the ancient Lydian 
 
 Government, and here resided the rich old Lydian kings. ‘The river Pactolus was famous 
 
 in old times because, as was said, after heavy rain-storms an abundance of gold was to be 
 
 found mixed with itssand. But this gold-sand story of the Pactolus may be, after all, little 
 
 more than a metaphor due to the great wealth of the city. Here, it is said, gold coins were 
 first minted, and it is known that the Greeks came to Sardis for their supplies of gold as 
 early as the sixth century before Christ. It was one of the Lydian kings, Croesus, who 
 was famed for his great wealth. Sardis was taken by Cyrus, and in the reign of Darius 
 the Ionians, aided by the Athenians, captured Sardis and destroyed most of the city by fire. 
 Christianity was probably introduced here about the time of Paul’s success in Ephesus. 
 The only inhabitants now to be found in Sardis are a few poor Turkish families, who 
 dwell in summer in tents and in stone houses in the winter. See the message of Jesus to 
 the angel of the church at Sardis in Revelation, iii: 1-6. 
 
 —329-~- 
 
ERGAMOS.—Pergamos, in the New Revision called Pergamum, is situated in 
 © the old province of Mysia, north of the river Caicus, and on a creek called Silenus, 
 The place is mentioned in Xenophon’s Anabasis. Lysimachus used the place as a 
 treasure house on account of its great strength. There was in it a temple of 
 Zsculapius. ‘The modern town is called Bergma, and has a population of about ten thou- 
 sand. ‘There are many and considerable ruins there. In 1879-80 a series of excavations 
 were made at Pergamos at the expense of the German Government. The temples of 
 Athena and Augusta and the frieze of the altar of Jupiter have been recovered. The exca- 
 vation only confirms history as it recorded the splendor and magnificence of ancient 
 Pergamum ; and so complete are its ruin and desolation that to-day no human being dwells 
 
 within the limits of its ancient walls. It was to the angel of the church at Pergamum that 
 Jesus said: ‘‘I know thy works, and where thou dwellest, even where Satan’s seat is: and 
 thou holdest fast my name, and hast not denied my faith, even in those days wherein 
 Antipas was my faithful martyr, who was slain among you, where Satan dwelleth. But I 
 have a few things against thee, because thou hast there them that hold the doctrine of 
 Balaam. * * * Repent; or else I will come unto thee quickly, and will fight against 
 them with the sword of my mouth. He that hath an ear, let him hear what the Spirit 
 saith unto the churches ; To him that overcometh will I give to eat of the hidden manna, 
 and will give him a white stone, and in the stone a new name written, which no man 
 knoweth saving he that receiveth it.’’—Revelation, ii: 13-17. 
 
 —330— 
 
MYRNA THROUGH A BREACH IN THE CASTLE WALL 
 a rugged frame and a charming picture of city, nand 
 is the 1 place of all who yisit the seven churches a. 
 
 It was 
 pe and purpose in 1894 to visit the other six sacred cities hallowed by the 
 
 Smyrna 
 
 s honored apostle on the isle of Patmos, but we had 
 
 in getting our glass plates through the custom house that it was impos- 
 t the other citi We did, however, sail along the coast of 
 
 Minor, enjoy mer the vision of the Algean » not excepting the 
 famous Patmos, to which John was exiled and. where the heavens were opened to him. 
 
 me: 
 so much di 
 
 The memories of classic and sacred history came pressing in upon us as we heard familiar 
 names, looked on landscapes of which we had read, and, Bible in hand, recalled the experi- 
 
 of the two great apostles in this region. There was Paul, the mis onary to the 
 Gentiles, the brave defender of the Chr n faith, the expounder of Christian doctrine, 
 and in labors abundant through his care of the churches. ‘There was John, who, in Jeru- 
 salem, leaned on the bosom of his Lord, and, outliving all his fellow-apostles, enforced by 
 h aching and by his example the law of love which his Lord had taught him. ‘This 
 view of Smyrna, taken on the afternoon of Ma 1894, is as charming as it is unique, and 
 as we look we can dream under the spell of this ancient region and this lovely atmosphere. 
 
 oO Lim 
 
QOPYRIGHT 1294 24 
 
 MYRNA FROM THE TOMB OF POLYCARP. —There is no place 
 in the environs of Smyrna that commands a wider and more glorious prospect 
 than is to be found at the tomb of Polycarp. Tradition asserts that the martyr 
 sleeps near the spot where he suffered death on account of his faith in the Lord 
 
 Jesus Christ.. A solitary cypress marks the spot of his grave, although the region 
 immediately about it is vacant and desolate. Nothing relieves the upper ground except 
 the thick turf, which furnishes a slight pasturage for wandering cattle. It is said that in 
 the second century this place was the general rendezvous for the thoughtless Asiatic idlers 
 who thronged Smyrna. What a flood of reflections comes into the mind as one stands in 
 
 this sacred place! Here at our feet is one of the greatest markets and commercial centers 
 inthe East. It has been prosperous, the home of luxury and wealth, for thousands of 
 years, and yet the most sacred memory in connection with it, and which gives it its highest 
 value, is the fact that Polycarp was burned to death in sight of the city. Urged to swear 
 by the genius of Caesar and thus escape the fate impending, Polycarp replied: ‘Since you 
 are so vainly ambitious that I should swear by the emperor’s genius, as you call it, as if 
 you know not who I am, hear my confession: 
 
 I am a Christian.’’ This confession 
 having been made, wood was prepared, the fire kindled, and in another chariot of fire this 
 later Elijah passed to his heavenly reception. 
 
 3325, 
 
and pictures of the elder world will, at the first, feel a shock of disappointment on 
 arriving in the Gulf of Smyrna. Here are bales, boxes and busy merchants every- 
 where. Warehouses and bazaars crowd the wharves. ‘‘Was this the harbor,” he 
 asks himself, ‘(that was once the entrance to Homer’s country?” In the old Greek times 
 the coast line here was about ninety yards further south. The bazaars now cover the area 
 which has been formed by the débris of the city, and by the destruction of ‘Tamerlane, 
 who filled up the inner basin. The present quay is modern, and encroaches on the sea. 
 On Thursday, May 24, 1894, at four o’clock, our company left Smyrna. A large party, who 
 appeared as excursionists, came aboard just before we left. They were, perhaps, crossing 
 
 So AMERS IN SMYRNA.—Tte pilgrim whose mind is full of the poetry 
 
 to Thessalonica, or to some place of summer resort. Had it not been for the fact that they 
 spoke Greek we should not have known them from a party boarding a steamer at 
 Long Branch, or some other fashionable American or English watering-place. They 
 were dressed in latest European style, and promenaded, chatted and laughed 
 as the people of our own country. Of course, we knew them to be Greeks 
 or Jews, for one never sees Mohammedan men and women meeting, promenading 
 and talking as do the people of our modern civilization. In reality, the city 
 before us, with the splendid steamers at its docks, is more a European than an 
 Asiatic city. Its wealthy and progressive classes have adopted European ideas and 
 customs. 
 
 Trek irr, 
 
, ship cast anchor in the harbor of Salonica—the old Thessalonica—a clean, thrifty- 
 looking city, with a population of about seventy-five thousand. It was an ancient 
 It is situated on a declivity at the northeastern corner of the 
 
 One of Alexander’s generals, who had married the daughter of 
 
 Philip, built the city, which he named in honor of his wife. It was in A. D. 51 that Paul 
 
 and Silas left Luke at Philippi, took Timothy and made their way to Thessalonica. It was 
 
 © » shin cest anchor in tne Friday, May 25th, at two o’clock in the afternoon, our 
 
 town of Macedonia. 
 bay of Thermz Cassander. 
 
 then the most populous of all the Macedonian cit A large population of Jews lived 
 here at that time, and it is to this day said that more than half the Thessalonians belong 
 to the Israelitish race. Paul, Silas and Timothy found a home with Jason, a Jew with a 
 
 Gentile name. Paul proposed at first to support himself by making tents. Then he began 
 to preach to his own countrymen. They did not receive his message, and he turned 
 to the Gentiles. Among them he had great success. The apostle found a church 
 made up mainly of pagans. In the epistle to the Thessalonians he writes: 
 “They themselves shew of us what manner of entering in we had unto you, and 
 how ye turned to God from idols to serve the living and true God.’’—I. Thessa- 
 lonians, i: 9. It was the meat and drink of the apostle to win men to Christ; 
 to set forth before them the power and holiness and glory of God, and to 
 organize them into Christian churches for the worship of God, and as centers of 
 Christian activity. 
 
 334 
 
os 
 
 iL 
 ei 
 : J 
 
 I 
 [eine Beene 
 
 Li 
 
 an ar a 
 pry oF 
 
 ARBOR OF THESSALONICA. — Paul had great success with the Thes- 
 salonians. ‘This fact is in itself a tribute to the power of the Gospel. He evidently 
 used at plainness of speech, for in one of his epistles to them he says: ‘‘Our 
 exhortation was not of deceit, nor of uncleanness, nor in guile: but as we were 
 
 allowed of God to be put in trust with the gospel, even so we speak ; not as pleasing men, 
 but God, which trieth our hearts.”"—I. Thessalonians, ii:3-4. He promised them no earthly 
 good, but rather hardship and persecution, for he says again: ‘‘ Yourselves know that we 
 are appointed thereunto. For verily, when we were with you, we told you before that we 
 should suffer tribulations; even as it came to pass, and ye know.’’—I. Thessalonians, 
 
 iii:3-4. From Thessalonica the apostle went to Berea. It was to the church at Berea that 
 the fine tribute was paid by the writer of the Acts of the Apostles: ‘These were more noble 
 than those in Thessalonica,*in that they received the word with all readiness of 
 mind, and searched the scriptures daily, whether those things were so.”— Acts, 
 xvii:11. The view which is here presented of Salonica from the harbor is very 
 fine. The tall, snow-white, needle-like minarets spring up allover the city, and the 
 houses on the shore are stately, comfortable, and some of them handsome buildings. 
 This view was taken Friday, May 24th, 1894. In the picture we are looking toward 
 the north. 
 
 moO las 
 
COPYRIGHT le98BY REM.BAIN. ~~ 
 
 bet 
 
 NCIENT MARKET-PLACE, ATHENS.— We have made a sudden 
 moye to the southward, and, landing at the Pireeus, have come up the old highway 
 to Athens. And this is Athens! 
 
 “Built nobly ; pure the air, and light the soil ; 
 
 Athens, the eye of Greece, Mother of Arts 
 
 And Eloquence.” 
 Thus Milton sang. Aristophanes called Athens “the ancient, the wonderful, the re- 
 nowned in song.’’ Our party left Thessalonica on Saturday, May 25th, 1894, at ten o’clock 
 A.M. We passed in sight of the celebrated Mount Olympus, and reached Pirzeus, the 
 port of Athens, Sunday morning, May 27th, at nine o’clock. Through the kind 
 offices of our American Minister, the Hon. Eben Alexander, we were permitted to visit 
 
 The first 
 It was here that Paul and Silas appeared 
 ‘The market-place 
 
 every museum and shrine in Athens for the purpose of illustrating this work. 
 
 picture we give is of the ancient market-place. 
 disputing with the people, as well as in the synagogues with the Jews. 
 is north and south of the Acropolis, between the Theseion and the so-called Market Gate, 
 which forms the west entrance of the Roman market-place which was laid bare in 1891 by 
 
 the Archzological Society. his was once the ‘‘focus of ancient Athenian life.” ‘The 
 famous temples, senate house, king’s hall and other ancient structures stood here. ‘They 
 
 have perished. ‘The statues of Pindar, Demosthenes and other great poets and orators have 
 also vanished, It is thought by many that the speech of Paul recorded in the seventeenth 
 chapter of the Acts of the Apostles was delivered in the king’s hall, or place of the house 
 of the Areopagites, in the market-place. 
 
 —336— 
 
HE TEMPLE OF THE WINDS, ATHENS.—A little east of the 
 ‘Temple of Theseus, a building of classic antiquity, stands the Temple of the Winds. 
 It is a small octagonal building, in good preservation. Upon its eight faces are 
 that many emblematic figures, representing the various winds which are most 
 
 According to tradition, Socrates used to take his stand on the site of 
 
 frequent in Attica. 
 this temple to instruct the rising youth of Athens. The temple was built during the last 
 century before the Christian era. It is about twenty-six feet in diameter and forty-two 
 feet in height. Boreas, an old man with a cloak, is on the north side; Kaekias, an old 
 man, shakes hail-stones out of a shield on the northeast side ; Apeliotes, a young man, with 
 
 FRaewen Fie 
 
 fruit and corn, is on the east; Euros, an old man, mantled, is on the southeast ; Notos is a 
 young man, with a vessel for water, on the south; Lips, with a part of a ship in his hand, 
 is on the southwest; Zephyr, a young man, drops flowers from the folds of his garments on 
 the west ; while on the northwest is Skiron holding a vase. The conception of the whole, 
 as wel the execution, is exquisitely beautiful. The fabric was surmounted by a Triton 
 moyable upon a pivot to indicate the direction of the wind. It served also as a 
 sun-dial. Many persons still regulate their time by it. Altogether, this structure is one of 
 the most curious and interesting remains of ancient Athens. In the picture we are looking 
 toward the south. 
 
ARS HILL, ATHENS. -—‘The ancient court of Areopagus, consisting of 
 -? venerable Athenian citizens, and exercising supreme jurisdiction in all cases 
 of life and death, held its sittings on this hill. The name is probably 
 derived from the fact that Aris was the first person tried here, for a murder 
 committed by him. It is usually taken for granted that Paul addressed the superstitious 
 Athenians from this hill. A little to the northwest of the Acropolis, which we are to see 
 later on, is the low hill known as the Areopagus. The writer made two trips to this 
 city, and each time climbed to this summit and read again and in Paul’s words, pro- 
 nounced so many centuries ago: ‘‘ Ye men of Athens.’’— Acts, xvii:22. Phidias, Plato, 
 Paul —art, philosophy, salvation. We bel‘eve in and thank God for all. First, salva- 
 
 tion . ‘Seek ye first the kingdom of God and his righteousness,’ but with this let us seek 
 the “all things” to which as children of God we are entitled: ‘“‘ Whatsoever things are 
 true’’—let us ‘‘think on these things.’”? Mars Hill rises abruptly from the plain on the 
 east, north and south, but on the west it slopes downward gradually. The stairs up which, 
 probably, St. Paul ascended, if he made his celebrated deliverance here, are at the south- 
 
 eastern corner. Several of these steps yet remain. A little more than half way to the top 
 
 is an opening formerly used as a passage, and which leads up to the left to 
 an open area on the summit. ‘This was thought to have served as an apart- 
 ment for the suitors and officials until their presence was required in the 
 
 court, 
 
 —338—- 
 
THENS FROM MARS HILL.-—There is nowhere else such a multitude 
 
 12, of commanding positions as in the city of Athens. ‘The site of Athens embraces 
 several lofty hills. One of these is the Areopagus. A city more favorable 
 
 to high display of oratory and to powerful effects certain y never existed. 
 
 Here the “philosophers of fashion,’ who taught philosophy and religion, not as 
 a faith, but as a system, came into contact with the thorough earnestness, the 
 profound conviction, the red-hot zeal, of the Apostle Paul. From Mars Hill the whole city 
 was spread out like a map before the speaker, In the above picture we are looking toward 
 the northwest, in which we have a view of the whole plain on which Athens was si‘uated, 
 with the mountains in the distance. The houses of Athens are for the most part white — 
 some of marble, some of the firm, fine-grained limestone with which the region abounds, 
 
 but most of them are stuccoed. ‘The streets are of respectable width, a few of the old- 
 fashioned narrow kind remaining as reminders of other years. Yonder, to the north of 
 
 the city, in the olive groves, is one sacred spot, honored as being the site of the Academe 
 of Plato, near Colonus and not far from the Cephesus. Milton says: 
 
 “See there the olive grove of Academe, 
 Plato’s retirement, where the Attic bird 
 Trills her thick-warbled notes the summer long.” 
 
 We sat in that classic spot and read of the wisdom which is exalted in Job, xxviii; 
 and as we thought of Plato we read the broad charter of the University of Christ as 
 recorded by Paul in Philippians, iv: 8. 
 
 —339— 
 
NYX FROM MARS HILL.—We are looking toward the southwest. The 
 Pnyx is where the Athenians held their political assemblies. Here it was that 
 Demosthenes and the other orators of Athens thundered. The Pny 
 huge terrace three hundred and ninety-five feet long and two hundred and twelve 
 
 feet wide, the upper margin of which is cut out of the rock. It is semicircular in form. 
 
 At the back of the terrace is a perpendicular wall of rock thirteen feet in height. In the 
 
 < consists of a 
 
 Cyclopean architecture, constructed of enormous polygonal stones laid with cement. It 
 
 is certainly the work of the earliest days of the republic. The so-called “pulpit of 
 
 vated in the same rock. 
 
 Demosthenes” is ex Demosthenes was born probably about 384 
 
 im me physical disadvantages which would have been sufficient to 
 destroy all hope in most men. He had a feeble voice, shortness of breath, a weak 
 coustitution, indistinct articulation. But he practiced and practiced until he became 
 He is said to have shut himself up at times in a caye underground 
 for study’s sake, and this for months together. He was loyal to his country. 
 His political predictions were veri He is said not to have been a ready 
 speaker and to have required preparation. All his orations bear mark of an 
 effort to convince the understanding rather than to work on the passions of his 
 hearers. 
 
 or 
 
 conqueror. 
 
 —340— 
 
RISON OF SOCRATES, ATHENS. — Socrates belongs to the epoch sentenced to drink a cup of hemlock. To weeping and affectionate disciples who gathered 
 immediately succeeding the age of Pericles, 469-399 B. C. Socrates was “the about him he delivered an addr at the last on the immortality of the soul. On the 
 greatest spirit of the pagan world.”’ His contribution to the wisdom of mankind northeast slope of the hill of Pnyx, near the boulevard, is the so-called prison of Socrates. 
 was greatec than that of any other philosopher. He understood human nature, You see several conspicuous door ‘ > : : 
 
 and he dealt with human nature in wisest fashion. His teachings can not fail to interest painted red. This traditional prison of lates is in view from Mars Hill. Paul himself 
 
 and instruct the seeker for truth in every age. He wasateacher. He taught without pay might have seenit. The poet Shelley calls Socrates ‘the Jesus Christ of Greece.” The 
 in portico, market-place and street, addressing all who chose to listen and addressing prison of Socrates and tine hemlock he drank gave Plato to the world, while Golgotha gave 
 them in hsmely but pointed and effective style. Notwithstanding his noble life, in B.C. St. Paul to the world. Socrates soneht fo} eradicate evil by increase of self-knowledge, 
 
 399 an open accusation was brought against him, and he was charged before the Athenian and Plato was his interpreter. Jose Cine SORIA: te rid the world of evil by making 
 
 magistrates with not believing in the gods. Being condemned on these charges he was individuals true and pure through God’s grace, and St. Paul was his apostle and expounder. 
 
 ys cut in the rock, and now closed with wooden gates 
 
 —341— 
 
west. The three columns which we see, one of which has fallen, belong to the 
 inner row of the south side of the temple. The fallen column helps us to see how 
 the Grecian columns were built. They consisted of circular blocks laid one upon 
 the other, but when standing produced the effect of a solid marble column. Standing in 
 the presence of the ruins of this temple, in full view of the Parthenon, and in almost a 
 stone’s throw of all the other famous ruins of the city, one can not fail to be impressed at the 
 infinite contrast between the size of Attica and the place it occupies in history. This whole 
 country is not larger than some of the counties of our States, yet here lived within one 
 
 EMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS.—We are looking to the north- 
 © 
 
 hundred years the greatest generals, statesmen and philosophers of the world ; and within 
 the space occupied by one of our small American villages there are to be found the remains 
 oftemples, columns, statues, which have been the wonder of all the ages. It was in 1852 that 
 this pillar fell. The scene is described by Thomas Bellot, F. R. C. S. C.: “On the night 
 of the 26th of October, 1852, the center pillar of three which formed a part of the inner 
 south peristyle of the temple of Jupiter Olympus was thrown down by a gale. The column 
 fell due forth and lies prostrate, the sections of the shaft preserving nearly their relative 
 positions, and nearly touching each other; the upper half of the capital, with its Corin- 
 
 thian volutes, is completely caps 
 
HE TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS, ATHENS.—the greatest 
 temple of Athens was that of Jupiter Olympus, but by the loss of so many of its 
 
 columns it has ceased to be in appearance the greatest work of Athens. It lies to 
 
 the southeast of Acropolis, just outside of the city. It is near the right bank of 
 Ilissus, and in splendor, size and beauty once excelled all other Grecian structures. 
 Immense sums of money were expended upon it from the time when it was commenced by 
 Peisistratos until it was completed by Hadrian, a period of seyen hundred years. At the 
 time the Persians sacked the city it was, fortunately, only beginning to be built, and so 
 escaped destruction. Aristotle speaks of it as a work of ‘despotic grandeur and equal to 
 the pyramids of Egypt.” The only building by which this temple was ever surpassed was 
 
 the temple of Diana at Ephesus. The temple originally measured on the upper platform 
 three hundred and fifty feet in length and one hundred and thirty-four feet in width. 
 There were originally more than one hundred Corinthian columns in double rows of twenty 
 each on the north and south sides, and in triple rows of eight each at the ends. Each 
 column was fifty-six and one-half feet high, and nearly six feet in diameter. This temple 
 contained the celebrated statue of the Olympian Jupiter, the work of Phidias, wrought of 
 ivory and gold and classed as one of the seven wonders of the world. It was a revival 
 and glorification of one of the most ancient of the arts of Greece, known as chryselephan- 
 tine, of which, perhaps, no example remains from the Acropolis. The view of the remains 
 of this temple is surprisingly beautiful. 
 
 343 
 
=i) 
 
 COPYRIGHT 1894 BY REM. SAIN 
 
 RIDGE OVER THE ILISSUS.—The Hissus flows near the Temple of Jupiter 
 Olympus. In the above view we are looking tothe north. We see Lycabettus 
 straight before us. This bridge belongs to the new Athens, and is itself a very 
 good index of the character of work that enters into the buildings of this classical 
 
 city. It is up to the best style of the bridge builder’s art. The stream it spans flows at the 
 hottom of a deep ravine. It was flowing at the first of June, 1894, but toward the end of 
 the dry season itis dry. In the Ilissus we have another illustration of what great fame a 
 small thing may get simply because of its relations with something great. This Ilissus is 
 not equal in quantity and size to one of our American branches; yet, because of its place 
 
 in the classic thought of Plato, and others, it occupies a larger place in history than some 
 of the largest rivers in the world. Along the banks of this slow-moving stream walked 
 Miltiades, Themistocles, Pericles, Alcibiades, Alschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, Aristoph- 
 anes, Phidias, Thucydides, Socrates, native Athenians, and perhaps Homer, Sappho, 
 Pindar, Theocritus, Pythagoras, Aristotle and Archimedes, Greeks, but not Athenians. 
 It is the presence and thought of these great generals, politicians, statesmen, philosophers 
 and artists which enhance and lift to such a place of influence this little river. It is 
 matter multiplied by mind. It isa thing universalized by thought. It takes rich human 
 life to transfigure real estate. 
 
 —344— 
 
landscape. It is on the plain with the same undisturbed hills around it. The 
 city has shifted about through the centuries, but always like a child that clings to 
 its mother. The Acropolis is the Athenian mother. Once the city was on the 
 Acropolis—baby on mother’s lap, arms around her neck. Then it clung to the south. 
 Now it stretches itself out on the northeast and west, but is no longer protected by “that 
 queen of all the hills about.” Athens is one of the easiest and most delightful cities to 
 look at and trace out from an eminence, and no city in the world has so many such favora- 
 ble points of observation. There is no ruin all the world over which combines so much 
 
 (Cas VIEW OF THE ACROPOLIS.—Athens retains its old 
 © 
 
 striking, so distinct a type, so vast a volume of history, so great a pageant of immortal 
 memories, as the Acropolis of Athens. When the traveler reflects how all the old 
 world’s culture culminated in Greece, all Greece in Athens, all Athens in its 
 Acropolis, all the Acropolis in the Parthenon, so much crowds upon the mind con- 
 fusedly that we look for some enduring monument whereupon we can fasten our thought. 
 The traveler feels a sense of disappointment. The hand of man, reckless and ruthless, has 
 taken away the glory from this center. ‘The above picture gives us a distant view of the 
 Acropolis, showing the Acropolis and Mount Lycabettus. Some one says: ‘‘ Whatever art and 
 letters and refinement could do to gild the splendid capital was bestowed without stint.” 
 
 ae 
 
alia j 
 At 
 
 THE ACROPOLIS.—As the Parthenon, which is the crown of the Acropolis, 
 is the first object seen in approaching Athens, so also can all Athens be seen from 
 its commanding summit, which view is one of the most beautiful and interesting 
 
 (@ YCABETTUS AND THE PALACE OF THE KING FROM 
 DEX 
 
 in the world. On the northeast is Lycabettus, eight hundred feet high—a sharp rocky 
 peak. On the south and southwest are the Acropolis, the Areopagus, the Mount Musée 
 and Pnyx. From any one of these points you can see a sight that becomes a picture in 
 your soul—clearly defined, captivating, eternal. The glory of the Acropolis has been 
 despoiled. The wonderful work of Phidias and the peculiar glory of his temple have 
 
 been for the most part removed. Some of the figures are lying mutilated on the ground, 
 but a large part of them were carried away by Lord Elgin to England, and constitute the 
 most precious treasures of the British Museum, In the middle distance we see the palace 
 of the king. ‘This royal palace of Pentelic marble is situated in the midst of a garden 
 which was laid out, we are told, by Queen Amalie. Its grove of shade trees includes the 
 picturesque palm, and has become a grateful resort during the hot season. The irrigation 
 of the garden is effected by a channel. At the south side of the palace garden rises a 
 handsome building—an exhibition building for Greek industries and manufactures ; statues 
 of the founders decorate the great exterior staircase. Close by are frequent cafés. 
 
 —346— 
 
ALLEN COLUMNS OF THE PARTHENON.—In the above view 
 
 we are looking toward the east. We see at the extreme left a little corner of a 
 museum on the Acropolis. In the distance is Mount Hymettus. ‘The first day of 
 
 our visit to Athens in 1894 was spent on the Acropolis, the dwelling-place originally 
 
 of the kings of early Athens, where they held their court. In later times this was trans- 
 ferred to Mars Hill, a little below, and the Acropolis was given up to the gods. Earthquake 
 and war have laid low most of the magnificent structures that crowded this lofty eminence. 
 Many of the sections of these columns lie nearly as they were cast down. ‘The fine atmos- 
 phere of Greece has preserved them and they shine in the sunlight and in the moonlight 
 to-day like fresh crystals of frost. We shall never forget one brilliant moonlight night, 
 when with our little company we after nine o’clock to the summit of this 
 
 came 
 
 splendid hill and walked over the glistening ground, the moon resplendent, the lights of 
 the city shining below, and the stars in the heavens above. ‘This is the old “altar rock” 
 of the city. Pindar called it ‘‘the navel of the city.” The artistic genius of the Greeks 
 
 expressed itself particularly in the form of architecture and sculpture. It is 
 acknowledged that in the latter the Greeks attained absolute perfection. The 
 most famous of the Doric temples of Greece is the Parthenon. Of this struc- 
 
 ture a great authority says: ‘For intellectual beauty, for perfection of proportion, 
 for beauty of detail, for the exquisite perfection of the highest and most re- 
 condite principle of art ever applied to architecture, it stands utterly and entirely 
 alone unrivaled —the glory of Greece the tee rest of 
 the world.” 
 
 and and shame of 
 
 347 — 
 
Greece and Rome fills the whole period between about the year 1000 B. C. and 
 the downfall of the western Roman empire, 476 A.D, The Greeks were a branch 
 of the mighty Aryan or Indo-European stock. Greece was a name almost unknown 
 
 (Oy Greece an VIEW ERECHTHEUM, ACROPOLIS.—Tte story of 
 
 by the people whom we call Greeks. They called their country Hellas. The Greeks were 
 by themselves called Hellenes, the descendants of Hellen, their ancestor. The name 
 Hellas is applied to all regions settled by the Greeks, including the adjacentislands. The 
 Jews, the Greeks and the Romans are the three most famous peoples of the world. Extent 
 of territory is not what makes the greatness of great people. Greece was less than half 
 the size of the State of New Vork, and it is in about the same latitude as the State of Vir- 
 
 ginia. In the age of Pericles the Acropolis became the home of the guardian deities ot 
 Greece, and all art seemed to settle on its summit. The Erechtheum, the great Ionic shrine 
 of the gods of the people, stood opposite the magical Parthenon. The Erechtheum was 
 built on the northern edge of the Acropolis. It is not large in size, but it is the most 
 graceful representative of the Ionic style. A distinguished writer says: ‘‘ The Erechtheum 
 appears to be designed expressly to contrast with the severe sublimity of the Parthenon. 
 It was called Erechtheum because of the tradition that Erechtheos was buried on the 
 site of this unique edifice.’ Fourteen beautiful columns are still standing. They 
 perfectly satisfy all that the mind is able to conceive of chasteness and of beautiful 
 sculpture. 
 
 —348— 
 
IEW EAST FROM THE ACROPOLIS.—Here we have a clearer 
 view of Hymettus. To the right we see the temple of Jupiter Olympus, and to the 
 left the modern Exposition Building. This side of Jupiter Olympus we see the 
 Gate of Hadrian, and are also looking across the classic Ilissus. 
 
 our range of vision in this marvelous picture is historic. ‘On the hill of the Acropolis 
 
 and on its buildings,’ says Freeman, the historian, ‘‘the whole history of Athens from 
 its earliest to its latest days has been clearly written. * * * ‘The oldest wall—we may 
 call it the wall of Theseus—and the latest wall of Odysseus are the earliest and latest pages 
 of our story bound together by the direct tie of cause and effect.’? What finer point of 
 view than this is possible if one would look upon Athens as a whole—the elder and the 
 
 Every spot within 
 
 younger city? A little below to the northeast is the Choragic monument of Lysicrates, a 
 beautiful marble structure, hexagonal, with a graceful Ionic pillar at each corner, and a 
 fine frieze. It is hardly more than ten feet in diameter, but is a purely Greek monument 
 in the Corinthian order. A road, once adorned with tripods, runs around the bay of the 
 Acropolis to the southeast, where is the theater of Dionysus, the great theater in which 
 A¥shcylus, Sophocles and Euripides brought out their immortal plays before an immortal 
 audience. This was unearthed more than thirty years ago by German archeologists. 
 Below us flows the Ilissus, glorified by the poetry of Plato; and welling from under 
 
 the rock is the fountain of Callirhoe, from which Athenian maidens still draw 
 water. 
 
 —349— 
 
COPYRIGHT IE 
 
 HE PEDESTAL OF AGRIPPA, ATHENS.~— We now look toward 
 
 @) the north. We see the temple of Theseus, with its fine columns, far below—the 
 most perfect building in Athens coming down to us from ancient times. The 
 Beaulé Gate, named after the French savant who discovered it in 1852 under the 
 Turkish bastions that previously concealed it, has since 1889 become the main entrance to 
 the Acropolis, and leads up the steep ascent by staircases to the great vestibule, the 
 Propylza, below which, on the left, one has a view of the pedestal of Agrippa. It is a 
 square, tower-like structure, fifty-five feet in height and about twelve feet in diameter, 
 which once bore the statue of Marcus V. Agrippa, the celebrated general and son-in-law of 
 Augustus. It was erected 27 B. C., in the third year of his consulship. He is celebrated 
 
 in the inscription on the east side as a benefactor ef the city, but there is no historical 
 record of his deeds. Athens has suffered much from the conquerors who have despoiled 
 her—less from the Romans than other peoples. Greek art and learning were held in high 
 repute by the Romans and protected and encouraged by them, although Graeco-Roman art 
 never attained that perfection that marked the age of Pericles. The matchless forms from 
 the hand of Phidias that peopled the Parthenon were carried away as trophies to adorn 
 Roman palaces. When Hadrian restored the temple of Jupiter Olympus he patronized 
 and thus encouraged Greek art, but the temple proved to be chiefly a temple of Hadrian. 
 The Greek spirit was subject to Rome, and thus the early purity of Greek art, which was 
 an embodiment in stone of the highest types of nature, was lost. 
 
 —350— 
 
i ae 
 
 inf psd Zia 
 
 NCIENT WALL, ACROPOLIS.~— Here is a bit of ancient, rugged, ragged 
 masonry, relic of ancient days. In the upper part it gives a charming glimpse 
 of the latest Athens. We have here the old and the new beautifully contrasted. 
 These stones in the northern wall are evidently from building material used in 
 
 some more ancient structure. The walls of the Acropolis, which inclose so many precious 
 monuments of antiquity, are themselves worthy of attention. They are the work of differ- 
 ent ages and races. The most ancient portion is the Pelasgic wall, on the northern side of 
 the citadel. Further east on the sea side of the citadel is a portion of the wall built un- 
 doubtedly after the retreat of the army of Xerxes, 490 B. C. It bears evidence of the haste 
 with which the army reconstructed their fortifications. Though solid and massive, the 
 material is heterogeneous, and was manifestly taken from other buildings. Considerable 
 
 portions. of the walls are ascribed to Cimon. Finally the Venetians and the Turks and the 
 modern Greeks have each constructed a part of the wall. How soon are buried in oblivion 
 the names of illustrious men who by power, wealth, courage and genius achieved tempo- 
 rary success, commanded the labors and resources of their fellow-men, subjugated nations, 
 constructed colossal buildings, and for the time put men in mortal terror because of their 
 strength and cruelty! But the names of such men have perished. A few remain, but 
 the majority even of the men of power have gone into forgetfulness, while the peo- 
 ple themselves who, as hired or purchased slaves, wrought from morning until night 
 in the quarrying, carrying and adjusting of those massive stones have gone down 
 into everlasting darkness, so far as their names, their families and even their race are 
 
 concerned. 
 
 —351— 
 
tak- & & ube Ans 
 
 HEATER OF BACCHUS DIONYSUS, ATHENS. ~— We now look 
 toward the south. Immediately before us are the ruins of an old theater. Here the 
 great plays of the Grecian masters were rendered. Families owned their seats, 
 which still bear their names. Here is block A with six seats containing the names 
 
 of ancient Greeks who here sat and listened to the plays. The performances given in the 
 
 theater of Bacchus were introduced as a form of worship, and at first were representations 
 either humorous or serious of some exploit. 
 
 ‘They represented the characters of the sea- 
 sons. ‘The approach of winter, when the fruit-bearing trees were dry, was symbolized by 
 grave marches and solemn music; for the representation of springtime there were gay 
 songs; summer was still more merry; autumn, the vintage time, was held with great 
 hilarity. In those days the tragic poets were regarded as the proper teachers of morality, 
 
 and among the Greeks the stage occupied somewhat the place of the modern pulpit. 
 Racine assumes this attitude in the preface of his Phédre, where he suggests that it ought 
 to be considered the best of his plays, because he has so strictly rewarded virtue and pun- 
 ished vice. These tragic poets were great masters of expression, profound students, not 
 only of the great world problems, but of the problems of human nature ; exquisite masters, 
 too, of their language, not only in its dramatic force, but in its lyric sweetness. They 
 summed up in their day all that was great and beautiful in Greek poetry, and became the 
 fullest and ripest fruit of that wonderful tree of the knowledge of good and evil 
 which even now makes those that taste it to be as gods. Such were the general features 
 of the tragedies which the Athenian public assembled to witness in broad daylight under 
 an Attic sky. 
 
 =e 
 
wall. ‘The temple is between the theater of Bacchus Dionysus and the theater of 
 Herod Atticus. It consists of a confused mass of walls, fragments, old cisterns 
 and inscription stones of different styles and ages. 
 
 © « PLE OF AESCULAPIUS.—Weare now looking toward the Acropolis 
 @) 
 
 This was a health resort in 
 ancient Athens, and was called Asklepiioion in the city, in contradistinction to Asklepieion 
 in the country. Aisculapius appears in Homer as an excellent physician of human origin. 
 In the later legends he becomes a god of the healing art. According to one story he was 
 the son of Coronis and the Acadian Ischys. Apollo, enraged by the infidelity of Coronis, 
 caused her to be put to death by Diana, but spared the boy, who was afterwards educated by 
 Cheiron in the healing art. He soon surpassed his teacher, and succeeded so far as to 
 restore the dead to life. This offended Pluto, and he caused him to be slain by a flash of 
 lightning. After this he was raised to the rank of a god by the kindness of mankind, and 
 
 was especially worshiped at Epidaurus, where a temple was consecrated to him.  After- 
 wards the worship of the healing god extended over Greece and even to Rome. Charles 
 
 Kingsley ‘tells a pretty tale in his ‘‘Heroes”’: Afsculapius was being trained amoug the 
 heroes by ‘‘Cheiron, the ancient Centaur, the wisest of all things beneath the sky.” 
 When the young heroes returned from the hunt they called out naming the game they had 
 secured. Only one walked apart and silent—A%sculapius, the too-wise child, with 
 his bosom full of herbs and flowers, and round his wrist a spotted snake. ‘The 
 boy told Cheiron how he had watched the snake cast his old skin, and how he 
 had, with an herb which he had seen a sick goat eat, cured a dying man, and 
 Cheiron smiled and said: ‘To each Athene and Apollo give some gift, and each 
 is worthy in his place; but to this child they have given an honor beyond honors— 
 to cure while others kill.” 
 
 FOO 
 
ITE OF THE ACADEMY .—We are looking toward the west. The half 
 century following the battle of Salamis (480-430 B. C.) follows the most brilliant 
 period of Athenian history, and one of the most illustrious in the history of the 
 world. ‘This was the era of Pericles. Socrates belongs to the epoch immediately 
 
 following the age of Pericles. Plato, a disciple of Socrates, founded the great Academe, 
 
 so called because the grove or garden in which it was situated was given to Athens for a 
 
 gymnasium by the old hero Academus. The Academy of Plato was about two miles out of 
 
 Athens on the plain of Attica. Here, amidst beautiful and enchanting scenery, perfect 
 
 seclusion and profound stillness, the philosopher and his students conversed. The 
 
 grounds were planted with plane trees and olives, and adorned with many statues. ‘There 
 were here a temple to Athene and a modest little house of Plato, over the door of which 
 
 nt of geometry 
 The chief object of his life 
 “whose greatest thought 
 
 were the words: ‘‘ Let no one enter who is igno 
 Plato were profound. His influence has been very great. 
 was to spread the philosophy of his eminent teacher, Socrates, 
 was to show that there is a God who makes all and rules all, and that the soul lives 
 Plato was the writer of ays in the form of questions and answers. Fortu- 
 nately, the Academe was surrounded by some of those permanent natural objects which 
 remain when the works of man are obliterated. By these we are guided to the spot ‘where 
 Plato instructed the youth of Athens in the lessons of an enlarged and humanizing 
 philosophy.” In the midst of associations like these we find it easy to “recall and 
 repeople scenes that have been consecrated by the highest examples of wisdom and 
 virtue.” 
 
 forever.’ 
 
“YATE OF ATHENE ARCHEGETIS.—This Doric gate is connected 
 with the name of Hadrian. It stands upon the modern ‘ Poikile”’ street. There 
 are four Doric columns, which formed the front of the gate, still standing, and on 
 the right is one of the side columns standing. These are surmounted by 
 architrave and plain pediment. This was for a long time considered as the only remaining 
 fragment of the temple dedicated to Rome and Augustus. Stuart, however, took the 
 position that these columns once flanked the entrance to a public market, and subsequent 
 research has tended to confirm this opinion. There are peculiarities of construction 
 observable here that are not found in sacred edifices. Besides, Stuart found inscriptions 
 connected with the building which go to show conclusively that it was never an entrance 
 to a sacred. building dedicated to Rome or Augustus, but constituted the entrance toa 
 
 market. Hence it is generally known as the ‘‘Agora Gate.’’ One of the inscriptions 
 found by Stuart records the names of two ‘‘prefects of the market.’’ Another inscription 
 contained an edict of the Emperor Hadrian regulating the sale of oils and the duties 
 payable on that article of traffic. There were two structures in Athens used for the same 
 purpose, and the one to which this Doric portico belonged was known asthe New Agora or 
 market. It was founded by Julius and Augustus Caesar, and once contained statues of 
 
 the Cesarean family. A basis above the pediment once supported a statue of Lucius Ceesar. 
 This was a grandson of Augustus, and was not adopted into the family of Augustus till 12 
 A.D. From this it is supposed that the statue was set up subsequently to that date, as 
 
 Lucius could not have been called Czesar until adopted into the family. An inscription cu 
 the architrave says the building was dedicated by the people to Athene Archegetis. 
 
 as) ee 
 
Opes TEMPLE.—We are on the north of the Acropolis, and the view 
 
 we give here is in the ancient market-place. Looking upon these broken columns, 
 we are reminded again, as we are reminded always when looking upon any of the 
 ancient ruins of Athens, of the stupid depredations which have nearly robbed 
 the present generation of the noblest monuments of human genius. Had it not been for 
 theft and vandalism from Sylla and Mummius, who exported ship-loads of the treasures of 
 Grecian art, to the masons, who converted many of the exquisitely carved marble columns 
 into cement, we might look to-day upon the magnificent structures which, in all that is 
 interesting to thought and feeling, and in all that touches what is deepest and noblest in 
 man, have never been equaled, or even approached, in the annals of art. Earthquakes 
 
 and wars would have spared these precious monuments. It is to the plundering 
 
 barbarism of man that we are to charge up the destruction of this classic city. 
 It is a matter for congratulation, however, that the plunderers of the temples 
 
 not able to take 
 and her almost perfect climate. 
 
 of Greece were away her deep sky, her radiant 
 These, to which so much of the perfection of 
 her art is due, still remain, together with her mountains, filled with the most 
 beautiful marble in the world. May we not hope that, with returning national hope and 
 culture, the Athenian people will come to the old time sense of beauty, and the 
 old time power of execution, so that we shall yet see Greece come to leadership 
 again in the world of beauty? 
 
 atmosphere 
 
 —356— 
 
“YATE OF HADRIAN, ACROPOLIS.—This arch or landmark of 
 
 & Hadrian stands to the northwest of the temple of Jupiter Olympus, and in the above 
 
 view we are looking toward the northwest. The architecture of this arch is in- 
 
 ferior to that inthe Olympeioion. The building is supposed to have served no other 
 purpose than that of a sort of triumphal landmark. On the west side toward the Acropolis 
 there is an inscription: ‘‘ This is Athens, the old city of Theseus ;’’ on the east side is the 
 inscription : ‘(This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus.’’? This emperor Hadrian 
 has left an impress upon Athens as no other Roman has done. The temple of Jupiter 
 Olympus was rebuilt by him, and an entire quarter of the city southeast of the Acropolis 
 was named after him. This arch or gateway was erected either by him or by his successor 
 
 to mark the division of the old town from the new. At first the arch was adorned with 
 Corinthian columns, but only fragments of bases now remain. The entablature is in a good 
 state of preservation. Above the archway is an “‘attica’’ or second story with three 
 window-like openings surmounted by a pediment. ‘The arch formed the approach to the 
 quarter containing the great temple of Zeus. Hadrian was the founder of the Pan-Hellenic 
 feast connected with this temple, and beneath this arch flowed the great processions of 
 people who so often made Athens a vast fé¢e, resplendent with red, blue, white and gold, 
 The modern Athenians follow the old road under the arch of Hadrian toward the temple 
 of Jupiter Olympus, but they now call it ‘‘The Columns,’’ and they come here to sit in 
 the cafés and catch the cool breeze from the Aigean. 
 
 ROO s ak 
 
me 
 
 MU 
 
 i} 
 
 TL |] 
 
 HURCH OF THE COLUMN, ATHENS.—The modern Athenian 
 churches are notably small. The Eastern church, like the ancient church of Ire- 
 land, seems always to have been better pleased to build a crowd of small churches 
 rather than a single one on the scale of the great minsters of Western Europe. 
 
 One cause of this peculiarity was the use of a single altar in the Eastern rite, which sug- 
 
 gests the building of several distinct churches. Athens, therefore, is full of small churches. 
 
 There are, it is said, three hundred of them in the city. Not one has the s 
 
 tectural pretensions. Most of them are without roofs, and many have never had any. 
 
 Nearly all churches contain columns and other remains of ancient edifices. 
 
 ightest archi- 
 
 A church is 
 
 often built around or over some altar consecrated to the honor of some saint; for instance, 
 the Church of the Column, though quite a modern structure, belongs to this class. Per- 
 haps the priest would tell you of some sacred tradition touching this column, some saint 
 who died at its base, some memory associating it with the visit of St. Paul, or some other 
 equally foolish or untenable notion. These precious relics of a better day are arranged 
 with an utter disregard to fitness and symmetry, which sufficiently shows that they are not 
 indebted for their present situation in holy places to any lurking remains of taste for the 
 arts, though a certain blind reverence for antiquity may have exerted some influence on 
 the architects of these grotesque buildings. 
 
\LACE DE LA CONSTITUTION. —We are looking now toward the 
 east. The Place de la Constitution may be called the center of modern Athens. 
 Around this square are fine buildings and residences. In the center we see the 
 residence of King George I. In 1863 Prince William of Sonderburg-Glucksburg, 
 son of the King of Denmark, and brother-in-law of the Prince of Wales, was elected. King of 
 Greece, and ascended the throne as George I. He has now been in power thirty-two years 
 and is very popular with his people. He and his family are kind and sympathetic. In 
 times of distress and calamity the king is always the leader in relieving the suffering and 
 giving comfort and encouragement to the people. During the great earthquake in 1894 
 
 he was the first to visit the desolated regions. The heir apparent married the daughter of 
 the Empress Frederick and granddaughter of Queen Victoria. ‘This glimpse is in marked 
 contrast with the scene on the Acropolis. ‘The street’ car, the modern architecture, the 
 pleasant gardens, carry us to the civilization of the Occident in the very heart of the Orient. 
 “The city owes its celebrity to its ancient greatness and the numerous remains of its former 
 works of art. The surrounding scenery is lovely and the climate delightful. ‘The streets, 
 however, are narrow and winding, but there are many handsome modern buildings.” * The 
 palace of the king is the principal modern edifice. It was begun in 1836 and finished in 
 1843. It is a large quadrangular building. 
 
 Sioa 
 
‘COPYRIGHT 1994 2Y, REM BAIN, 
 
 HE RESIDENCE OF DR. SCHLIEMANN.—The Boulevard de 
 VUniversité contains numerous handsome private houses built of marble from 
 Mount Hymettus or Mount Pentelicus. The first of these on the right, with a loggia 
 and the inscription ‘Palace of Ilion,” belonged to Dr. Schliemann, 1822-90, the 
 
 well-known explorer of the site of Troy. The residence is now occupied by his widow. 
 ‘The name of Dr. Schliemann is held in highest esteem and affection by the people of 
 Athens. No tourist feels that a visit to the city is complete unless he takes in this beauti- 
 ful residence. ‘The building has a massive substructure inclosing the tomb chamber, and a 
 colonnade above with a bust of the deceased. The substructure is embellished with reliefs 
 
 and scenes from the Homeric poems and from Schliemann’s excavations. One can not 
 but remark how strange it is that among the rich men of the world who profess an interest 
 in archzeology not one can be found to take up the work, as Dr. Schliemann did, to enrich 
 science with splendid fields of new evidence and art, not only with the naive efforts of its 
 infancy, but with forgotten models of perfect and peerless form. The treasures exhumed 
 by Dr, Schliemann at Mycene are in themselves enough to induce any student of Greek 
 antiquity to revisit the town, however well he may have examined it in former years. The 
 history of the places explored by this enthusiastic archeologist is little known, as they 
 were destroyed before the period of authentic annals began. 
 
 —360— 
 
CADEMY OF SCIENCE, ATHENS.—tThis fine structure was built at 
 the expense of the late Baron Sina of Vienna, and was intended for a place of 
 study for Greek and foreign men of learning. It is constructed after the model of 
 the Institute of France and the Academy of Berlin. The building is entirely 
 
 of Pentelic marble, and follows the classic Greek style, with Ionic colonnade and sculptured 
 
 pediment. Fifteen hundred students are here in attendance. The library building was 
 erected through the proceeds of a legacy by M. Vallianoes. ‘The university is profusely 
 adorned with the paintings and gildings that once decorated the antique architectural 
 
 (O 
 
 monuments, enabling us to form some idea of the effect when Athens was in her prime and 
 the Partheon, the Erechtheum and the Theseion shone from their rocky pediments in all the 
 glory of white, red, blue and gold. On the pediment of the central structure of the university 
 building is a group representing the birth of Athene by the Greek sculptor Drosos. ‘The 
 statues of Athene and Apollo upon Ionic columns in front are by the same artist, as are the 
 figures of Socrates and Plato on either side and opposite the entrance. The principal hall 
 contains a series of paintings by a Vienna artist relating to the myth of Prometheus. 
 There is also a collection of coins, chiefly from countries influenced by Grecian civilization. 
 
 361— 
 
TREET FROM THE PALACE.—Athens at this time lies east of the 
 Acropolis, beyond the arch of Hadrian. The arch opens toward the northeast 
 upon the public gardens, which in turn join the palace gardens. The palace is at 
 the northwest corner of these large and beautiful gardens, which are thrown open to 
 
 the public three days each week after three o’clock. We have already seen the king’s 
 palace and building of fine Pentelic marble and limestone. We have seen the Place de 
 la Constitution—a velvety lawn, overhung by oranges, oleanders and other southern trees, 
 surrounding a marble fountain. On the north side of the palace runs the fine Kephisia 
 street, bordered with trees. ‘To the northeast rises Mount Lycabettus, a noble hill that adds 
 much to the view, and from which one of the finest views of Athens may be enjoyed. 
 
 It is nearly a thousand feet above the sea, and from it the Attic plain, with Athens, 
 the Acropolis, Piraeus, and the Saronic Gulf are seen, with islands and the distant 
 mountains of Argolis. The gray-green cf the olive groves gives softness to the rich 
 landscape, and the coloring of sea andsky is of a pure sunny quality known as 
 “Attic skies.” To the east rises Mount Hymettus, famed in song and story for the 
 rare flavor of its honey. How long St. Paul remained in Athens we can not tell. 
 He had reached the Greek capital, according to Lewin, in the beginning of 
 November, A. D. 51, and Lewin supposed that he departed about December 4, A. D. 
 51. Leaving Athens, he made his way to Corinth, whether by sea or by land is a 
 matter of question. 
 
 —362— 
 
ENERAL VIEW OF OLD CORINTH.—No site can be more thor- 
 oughly Greek than old Corinth; the hill-top n the sea, but not on it, is the 
 ideal position for a Greek coast town of the earliest type. It is a central point of 
 Hellas, commanding her coasts and her mountains on every side, In this view we 
 
 stand with our back to the ‘‘hill-top’’—the Acro-Corinth—and are looking toward the 
 
 northeast. We see the Corinthian bay, and beyond it the hill which runs down from the 
 isthmus into the bay of Corinth. But little is left of the ancient, the renowned, the worldly 
 and dissipated city of Corinth. The tall, tapering trees, the ruins of the old temple, the 
 desolate plains, the old white pathways trodden for centuries, the cultivated fields, and 
 we have all that is left of the city to which Paul came A. D. 51, as Lewin says, early in 
 Decemher, having remained at Athens about one month. Corinth was the capital of Achaia 
 
 —forty miles from Athens, at the southern extremity of the isthmus of Corinth. The city 
 was rich and populous, about five miles in circumference and inclosed by a wall, except on 
 the south side, where it was protected by Acro-Corinth. The trade between Peloponnesus 
 and northern Greece all passed across the neck of the isthmus near the city. At the time 
 of Paul’s visit the city was governed by Gallio, the Roman proconsul, the emperor at 
 Rome being Claudius. The one ancient building which strikes the eye and gives a charac- 
 ter to the place is the shattered temple of Aphrodite, who had one of her special homes in 
 Corinth ; but the seven massive columns of the temple belong, as surely they ought to 
 belong, to her greater sister Athene. Corinth fell; Corinth rose again; ‘and those seven aged 
 columns have stood and looked on all these changes. They beheld the reign of Perian- 
 dros; they have lived to behold the reign of George of Denmark.” 
 
 —363— 
 
tecture of Corinth, that ‘‘most opulent and luxuriant town of Greece,’ nothing 
 remains but seven venerable columns, of the Doric style, which mark the site of a 
 temple of Neptune. Five of the columns which stood on the west side of the tem- 
 ple, and two which immediately adjoined the west on the south, are the seven which remain 
 —the oldest specimens of the Doric style in the world. Itis singular that in the place which 
 gave a name to another style of architecture—the Corinthian—these specimens of another 
 school should be all that is left to exhibit the architectural achievements of former ages. 
 The columns are monoliths, with sixteen flutes twenty-three and a half feet high, with a 
 
 © EMPLE AT OLD CORINTH.— Whatever the splendors of the ancient archi- 
 
 base of five feet eight inches in diameter, and tapering toward the top, where they meas- 
 These half-fallen columns carry us back to the earlies 
 days of the historic being of the city. Young as they seem beside the gates and vanished 
 columns of Mycene, the Parthenon is young beside them. St. Paul writes to the Corin- 
 thian church in memory of his residence among them: ‘I was with youin weakness, and 
 in fear, and in much trembling.’’—I. Corinthi Is it any wonder that a man with 
 such exalted ideas of personal purity, with such dreams of the coming kingdom of God, 
 wherein righteousness was to prevail, should have felt appalled at the effeminacy, licen- 
 tiousness and general corruption which characterized the people among whom he labored ? 
 
 ure four feet and three inches. 
 
 Sepia se 
 
 —364— 
 
ALLS OF ACRO-CORINTH.—One of the editors of this work, with a 
 party of American tourists landing at Corinth, rode across the plain through the 
 city and climbed by a winding pathway the lofty sides of Acro-Corinth. Freeman 
 describes the height: ‘Stern and bare it rises above the city; stern and bare it 
 
 tises above the open land on either side. Here we find the history of Corinth, 
 the history of Hellas, written legibly in stone. The warder keeps the gate; but he keeps 
 it only as a form. The walls shelter only ruins; but they are ruins which tell their tale.” 
 The Acropolis is 1886 feet above the plain, The crest of the mountain was formerly 
 
 a fortress surrounded by a wall. The walls remain, and from the top one has a vision of the 
 whole of Greece. When Paul was here the temple of Venus stood on this lotty height. 
 
 i ie ae 
 
 To it were attached more than a thousand courtesans, who, under the cover of relig- 
 ious rites, pandered to the passions of citizens and foreigners. In clear weather Athens 
 is visible from this point. The Acropolis, with the Parthenon, and the glistening white 
 walls of the royal palace in front of Hymettus and Lycabettus, may be distinguished. It 
 was from Corinth that Paul wrote his epistle to the Thessalonians after a year and six 
 months’ residence. About the beginning of June, A. D. 53, Paul was tried in Corinth 
 before Gallio. It was here that he took the vow of a Nazarite, and left the city about the 
 middle of July, A. D. 53. Between the spirit of Gallio and the spirit of the apostle there 
 was a vast difference. The heart of the one possessed by the truth as it is in Jesus was 
 wholly set on God and His service. 
 
ARBOR AND SHIPPING, CORFU.—‘t. Paul sailed from the shores of 
 Judea on his first voyage to Rome in August, A. D. 60. We have no record of his 
 stopping at the island of Corfu upon this or any other of his voyages. Its impor- 
 tance in the later civilization, however, renders it worthy of our notice as we tray- 
 
 erse the general route followed by the apostle. This island was colonized by the Corin- 
 thians B.C. 734. The ancients are said to have identified Corfu with the Phzcian islands 
 of Scheria, mentioned in the Odyssey as ruled over by Alkinous. The island was an impor- 
 tant station of traffic between Italy and Greece. From 1815 to 1863 Corfu formed, with the 
 other Ionic islands, the seven-isle state under the protection of England. During these 
 years it was the residence of the British lord high commissioners, the first of whom was 
 
 Sir Thomas Maitland. In 1858 Mr. Gladstone was sent as extraordinary commissioner to 
 
 the Ionic Islands to consider the grievances of the people, and for a short time filled the 
 office of lord high commissioner. The town of Corfu is beautifully situated on one of the 
 spurs of the rambling island, and casting anchor one sees on the left the double 
 protuberance of the fortezza Vecchia, and on the other side of the city to 
 the right the dark ramparts of the fortezza Nuova. Corfu has a population of 
 about twenty-five thousand, with narrow, busy and crowded streets, and high stone 
 houses. On the accession of King George, England yielded to the wisk 
 islanders and consented to the incorporation of the islands with the k 
 Greece. 
 
 —366— 
 
PN ee 
 ae 
 
 ITADEL AT CORFU.—The scenery as the traveler enters the broad strait 
 of Corfu which separates the island from the main land is very imposing. ‘To the 
 right towers Monte San Salvadore, and on the left are the rugged shores of Epirus. 
 As he nears the point of the island on which the capital city stands the little 
 
 island of Vido intercepts the view, but when this is passed, Corfu flanks on either side by 
 
 its citadels. ‘The fort Vecchia and the fortezza Nuova are seen above its cliff above the 
 se These fortifications to the right and to the left were constructed by the Venetians, 
 and are now of little importance. The citadel shown in the picture is the one upon the 
 left, the fortezza Vecchia, built on a spur of land which is connected with the main land 
 by a bridge. The citadel stands between two mounts. 
 
 io 
 
 They make a promontory of this 
 
 semi-detached point. The buildings are now used as barracks and a military hospital, but 
 are fast falling into decay. The ramparts are overgrown with vegetation, but from the 
 platform on the west side, two hundred and thirty feet above the sea, one gets a superb 
 view of the town and the island. The island is beautiful, with groves of orange, olive, 
 lemon and fig trees, which attain great perfection here. Around these shores it is said 
 Ulysses cruised, and a little rocky island is shown that is called ‘Ulysses’ ship,” 
 turned to stone by Poseidon. The traveler who enters the old Hellenistic world 
 by way of Corfu, and who leaves that island by an evening steamer, will awake the 
 next morning within a region which even modern geography and politics will allow to be 
 wholly Hellenistic. 
 
 —367— 
 
—\ UTEOLI.—We now approach the scene of greatest interest in the westward 
 movement of the Gospel, and of its able representative, Paul the apostle. In this 
 view we look eastward across the bay of Naples. When one of the editors of these 
 notes spent several weeks in Naples, he visited three times this most interesting 
 site, five miles up the bay from Naples, the ancient ‘‘city of Pozzuoli’’—the Puteoli of 
 the New Testament. In the middle of February, A. D. 61, the ‘‘Castor and Pollux,” 
 the ship upon which Paul made the voyage to Italy, cast anchor in the bay of Puteoli. 
 
 It was under distressing circumstances that St. Paul stepped for the first time on the quay of 
 
 this Italian port. He came with a company of malefactors, on his way to Rome to be 
 
 judged by the emperor, then the wicked Nero. The 
 ruins of the old quay or mole on which he landed still remain, and the scenery 
 
 He remained here for seven days. 
 
 about the bay is much the same as then. No attention was paid the great 
 apostle, except by a few Christian Jews of Puteoli, who were exvecting him. 
 
 The landing upon these shores of this weary prisoner was the most momentous 
 event that ever occurred in the history of the empire. It created a new era in the 
 life of the world. Puteoli, now so desolate and forsaken, was then the Liverpool of 
 Italy. It was called the Little Rome; the home of wealthy Roman citizens, and a 
 
 fashionable watering-place of the empire. 
 
 365 
 
OLUMNS OF THE TEMPLE SERAPEUM, PUTEOLI.—A 
 street at the north end of Puteoli leads from the sea to the temple of Serapis. In 
 1750 this buried temple was excavated. It consisted formerly of a square court, sur- 
 rounded by forty-eight marble and granite columns. There were adjoining these 
 
 thirty-two small chambers. ‘Three Corinthian columns of African marble upon which the 
 
 portico rested stillremain. ‘The others have been transferred to the theater of the palace of 
 
 Caserta. ‘The interior of this temple was approached by four flights of steps. Here one saw 
 
 the statues of Serapis which have since been exhumed and taken to the museum at Naples. On 
 
 every side the apostle on the occasion of his visit would see mournful tokens of the abandon- 
 ment of the people to idolatry. The three monolith columns which remain of this temple 
 
 are each forty feetlong. Thestones are said to have been brought from Egypt. It is evident 
 from their appearance that for nearly half their length they have for ages been immersed 
 in water, proving that the shore of the bay must have been alternately depressed and 
 elevated. What a weight of despair must have rested, at least for a time, on the apostle’s 
 heart, and how would it have been augmented if prophetic vision had been given him of 
 the wretchedness and superstition which after so many ages should still dwell in this town! 
 One has said: ‘‘The presence of Paul on that Roman quay, a despised prisoner in bonds 
 for the sake of the Gospel, is a picture that appeals to every heart of the triumph of divine 
 strength in the midst of human weakness, and the most striking proof, moreover, that not 
 by might, but by the spirit of love, does God bring down the strongholds of sin.” 
 
 —369 = 
 
 i] 
 
 — 
 
XTERIOR OF THE AMPHITHEATER, PUTEOLI.—A cross- 
 road called the Via Campana leads from Puteoli to Capua, where it joins the 
 famous Appian Way. Along this road Paul is supposed to have walked. It is still 
 paved with blocks of lava, sacred from the very thought that the feet of the apostle 
 
 may have trodden it. On this road, about a mile from the sea, is the famous amphitheater 
 where Nero is said to have rehearsed the part he was to act on the public stage of Rome. 
 The building is in a remarkable state of preservation. It rests upon three series of arches 
 surrounded by an external court. The view above gives the outside of the amphitheater. 
 Next to the sea delicate fronds of the maiden-hair fern coyer it, as if nature would conceal 
 the place where crimes were committed which dishonored the spot and the nation in other 
 
 No other people were ever so madly fascinated by the exciting scenes of the arena 
 as were the Romans. Their motto wa : 
 
 “Bread and the circus.’ The spell of the ‘“‘stage” 
 held the high and the low, the rich and the poor, the emperor and the peasant. In the 
 time of Marcus Aurelius one hundred and thirty-five days in the year were set apart for 
 public exhibitions in the arena. Here were contests of wild beasts; then contest between 
 man and beast; then man against man—to the death. Noblemen became gladiators. 
 Nero, Commodus and Caracalla thought themselves more honored by the victories in the 
 arena than in the field. Commodus boasted that he had slain twelve hundred men for the 
 delectation of Rome. During the reign of Augustus it is said that ten thousand gladiators 
 were killed. Well may McMillan say: “This i 
 
 s the Holy Land of paganism.” 
 
 —370— 
 
two entrances at the ends of the amphitheater. The main entrance we find in the 
 picture above. The approaches were through covered colonnades of marble. Behind 
 the amphitheater are what were anciently known as the Phlegrzean fields, referred 
 to in classic poetry. From the top of this magnificent ruin we may look on the scenery 
 described in the eleventh book of the Odyssey and in the sixth book of the Aineid. 
 “Italy, like Palestine, has an accursed spot in its fairer region—a visible monument to all 
 ages of the great truth that the tidal wave of retribution will inevitably overwhelm every 
 nation that forgets the eternal distinction of right and wrong. Within this very amphi- 
 theater the sands of the arena were dyed with the blood of St. Januarius, who was thrown 
 
 Gre eatnnce TO THE AMPHITHEATER, PUTEOLI.—There were 
 
 to the wild beasts, and whose blood is annually liquefied by a supposititious miracle 
 
 in Naples at the present day.’”’ Where man sins there man suffers. The visit of the 
 
 apostle Paul to Puteoli served many purposes. He who sent Israel into Egypt and 
 Babylon that they might be benefited by coming into contact with other civilizatiotis 
 sent St. Paul to this famous region that Greece and Rome might blend. Wecan trace the 
 overruling hand that was shaping the destinies of the church in the course which Paul 
 was led to take from Jerusalem to Damascus, and thence to Asia Minor, Corinth, Athens, 
 Puteoli and Rome, gathering as he went along the fruits of that wide diversity of experi- 
 ence and culture characterizing these places, thus equipping him more thoroughly for his 
 work among the Gentiles. 
 
 ay 
 
Here is a fine view of the bay, the distant mountains and the shores of Puteoli. In 
 imagination one can easily reconstruct this desolate ruin, and people it under the 
 sunny skies of southern Italy with the vast multitude of eager spectators whose 
 gay attire shines in the Italian sun and whose shouts of applause fill the air. The amphi- 
 theater was three hundred and sixty-nine feet in length and two hundred and sixteen feet 
 in breadth. It was capable of holding twenty-five thousand persons. We see in these 
 ruins, excavated in 1838, the opening leading down into the subterranean passage and 
 chambers where the wild beasts were kept. We can see, also, the air-holes and the outlets 
 of the dens. Here Nero celebrated the gladiatorial combat when he received the king of 
 
 Yee. OF THE ARENA OF AMPHITHEATER, PUTEOLI.— 
 
 Armenia as the guest of his court. It was at this time that the emperor himself entered 
 the arena. Nor was the view of Puteoli different in its most important elements in the 
 days of the apostle from that now presented to us. The same forms of the landscape met 
 the eye; the same gleams of purple and crimson wandering over town and vineyard and 
 wood, transfiguring the scene, and which give it more than half the loveliness now. 
 But its human elements were different. Swarming with life as are these shores 
 at the present time, they were even more populous then. The shores were the 
 very centers of Roman splendor. They were crowded with the vessels of the Roman 
 fleet commanded by Pliny, and its waters were alive with the pleasure boats of the 
 patrician youths filling the air with the music of their song and laughter. 
 
RISON, NAPLES.—Upon a little island rising directly out of the sea stands 
 the prison of Naples. It is lifted up and away from the din of the city, the blue 
 sea surrounding it on every side. To-day the scene appears mirror-like and 
 motionless, except as an occasional fishing boat glides past the prison and stirs 
 
 the glassy surfe The whole line of coast from Puteoli to Sorrento repeats and renews 
 
 the scene in curves and waves of beauty. The land is rounded, scooped and hollowed ; 
 holding out jutting promontories and projecting like arms of invitation to the sea. No 
 rigid lines of defense are thrown up; no castellated masses of granite stand along the 
 coast like line-of-battle ships drawn up for an engagement. There is no expression 
 of defiance stamped upon the scene. The buildings, the works of man’s hands, are 
 subordinate to the grand and commanding features of nature around and above them. 
 Naples with its bay presents one of the finest views that this world offers to the lover of the 
 
 beautiful and the sublime. The bay itself, the islands to the west, the lofty Vesuvius with 
 its plume of smoke, the city, the villas, present a matchless panorama. Well might the 
 
 poet sing: 
 
 “This region surely is not of the earth ; 
 Was it not dropped from heaven? Not a grove, 
 Citron or pine or cedar; not a grotto, 
 Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, 
 But breathes enchantment. Here, methinks, 
 Truth wants no ornament; in her own shape 
 Filling the mind by turns with awe and love, 
 By turns inclining wild ecstasy 
 And soberest meditation.” 
 
aes 
 
 x 
 : a 
 = oo 
 . oF 
 . — 
 : Oo 
 ae de se 
 ae : ly 
 : oe 
 ou. 
 ee 
 
 APLES FROM THE HILL.—The beauty of Naples and its environs can 
 as little be described as exaggerated. The extreme points of the two projecting 
 arms that inclose the bay on the northwest and southeast are twenty miles distant 
 from each other in a straight line. Vesuvius occupies a point half way between 
 
 these projecting extremes. The whole intermediate space is crowded with human life, 
 and comprises within itself nearly every form of beauty which earth and water cam repre- 
 sent. On one side, from a tideless sea of most dazzling blue, a range of mountains rises, 
 the peaks of which are for many months covered with snow; forests of chestnut and oak 
 encircle them midway ; between them and the sea is really a terrace of level land, and the 
 cliffs that line the shore are covered with luxuriant vegetation. Numberless points are 
 crowded with villas, monasteries and Houses, linked together by growing successions of 
 
 orange groves, vineyards, orchards and gardens. 
 towers Vesuvius. 
 
 In the center of this splendid scene 
 The eye leaps from whatever point it fixes upon for a moment to the 
 lofty volcano itself. The peculiar tone of the atmosphere it is impossible for any 
 artist to reproduce. The very mountains change from hour to hour; and the sunset 
 makes a vision to be remembered for years. An artistic writer has said: “An 
 aerial veil of rose and amethyst drops upon the hills from the skies of morning 
 and evening.” With all its beauty, there was in this lovely region a demand 
 which Paul and the gospel of his Master came to meet. The tendency of climate 
 and civilization, such as are represented in Naples, is to divert the thought of 
 man from the ineffable and spiritual realities. Nowhere are law and gospel more 
 necessary. 
 
 —374— 
 
revealed when the excavations at Pompeii began! With the passing years, as page 
 after page is turned by the archeologist’s hamd of iron, new revelations are made 
 concerning the old life and the old civilization in the vicinity of Nz ples. Pompeii, situ- 
 
 Cre RAL VIEW OF POMPETII.—What a wonderful bit of history was 
 
 ated about thirteen miles southeast from Naples at the foot of Vesuvius, was once nearer 
 to the sea than it is now, and was a health resort of Roman citizens. It originally stood 
 on a bed of lava, and by the eruption which destroyed it, A. D. 79, the shores of the sea 
 receded a considerable distance. An earthquake in A. D. 63 did great damage, but in 
 A. D. 79 the whole town was buried under showers of ashes, cinders and stones, and was 
 
 really forgotten until, in 1689, certain ruins protruding above ground were first noticed, 
 and in 1755 the excavations began. We enter Pompeii by the Street of the Tombs, so called 
 on account of the number of funeral monuments which border it. 
 of Pompeii consist of temples, theaters and forums, and w 
 
 The public buildings 
 doubtless in this representa- 
 tive of fine architecture, but they were not built of marble or stone, and have been so seri- 
 ously damaged as not to represent much that is artistic in architectural form. ‘The space 
 is strewn over with capitals and columns, with fallen pediments, broken walls and shape- 
 less masses of masonry that, unless the traveler be so trained as to see beauty in deform- 
 ity and trace the original symmetry in the present disorder, he will turn away disappointed. 
 
 Si 
 
TREET IN POMPETII.—tThe general aspect of the streets in Pompeii is 
 
 @) somewhat like that of a square of a modern city which has been destroyed by a 
 conflagration. All the excavated rubbish has been removed and there appears 
 nothing to prove that it was hidden for so many centuries until the end of the ex- 
 cavated portion is reached and a wall of gray ashes with trees growing upon it rises before 
 us. Then we begin to comprehend the unique character of the place. Pompeii was not 
 destroyed by streams of lava, as many suppose, but by showers of cinders mixed with 
 liquid mud. It is nowhere so light and volatile as wood ashes, but is more like fine gravel 
 of a dark gray color. The streets are generally narrow, the houses are small, and the rooms 
 are not constructed with any regard to what we should term comfort and convenience. 
 
 The guests probably met under the portico or in the court near the fountain. ‘The Pom- 
 peiian houses are often decorated with exquisite taste and elegance. Among these ruins 
 may be seen remains of shops and taverns, illustrating distinctly and vividly the domestic 
 life of the people. Here isa baker shop. Highteen hundred years ago the baker, havi ig 
 placed his loaves in the oven, had closed the iron door, when he had to fly for his life. A 
 few years ago the batch was drawn out by the excavator. In an eating-house were found 
 raisins, onions, fish cooked in oil and figs 
 are marked with the year of the vintage. ‘The skeleton of a dove was found ina niche of a 
 dwelling overlooking the garden. Like a sentinel she had kept to her post, sat on her nest 
 through all the storm, and from beneath her were taken the eggs she would not leave. 
 
 split in two and skewered together; bottles of wine 
 
 i= 
 
‘atch Ai has hs ving 
 
 Bie 
 
 OUSE OF ROMULUS, POMPETII.—Unlike cities of the present time, 
 
 3 Pompeii was not divided in business quarters and residence quarters. Almost every 
 residence had a business department or shop connected with it. The city was 
 surrounded by walls nearly two miles in circumference. It is about three-quarters 
 
 of a mile from one side of the town to the other in the direction of its greatest length. 
 The area of the city is about one hundred and sixty acres. Nearly one-half of this has in 
 the past one hundred and fifty years been excavated. There is, doubtless, much that is to 
 enlighten us concerning the condition of the first century in the unexcavated part of this 
 
 ill-fated city. In the above view we are permitted to see a private house where the 
 
 pictures are still clear and bright upon the walls. Some of the paintings upon Pompeiian 
 houses are becoming indistinct, but in this particular representation given above they are 
 wonderlully distinct and life-like. How the colors in these wall paintings have remained 
 after nearly two thousand years is remarkable. They were subjected first to the fire from 
 Vesuvius, then to burial for over fifteen hundred years, and now for over one hundred 
 years they have been tested by the summers and winters of the open weather. Still 
 the red and yellow and blue and green have stood the test of time and change, 
 and bring to us over the ages the fashion of beauty prevalent in the Roman Empire in the 
 
 first century. 
 
 mes Tae 
 
Wee | 
 
 OUSE OF TRIPTOLEMUS. —It is said that in Pompeii we are 
 immediately struck with the extreme narrowness of the streets, which finds no 
 parallel in any modern city of Europe, unless it be Venice. It is not a city of 
 streets, but of lanes and alleys. Many of these are so narrow that a man can step 
 
 from one curbstone to the other. ‘The streets are well paved with large irregular blocks 
 
 of lava. Many private houses and villas have been excavated, differing from each other in 
 extent and elegance as their owners were men of wealth, competence or poverty. A fine 
 house in Pompeii consists of several inclosed spaces, open to the sky, around which walls 
 
 and colonnades are built. These communicate with each other by doors. A passage, the 
 
 atrium —which is the principal room entered after the vestibule—is a large and open, ele- 
 gantly decorated apartment where the owner was a man of fortune and consequence. The 
 sleeping apartments are mere closets. “We hang pictures and engravings upon the 
 walls; they paint the walls themselves. We spread costly carpets upon the floors; 
 they tread upon marble slabs, often inwrought with mosaic. We shade our windows 
 with rich curtains; they dispense with windows altogether, the light falling through 
 openi in the ceiling above.” The Pompeiians were evidently an out-of-door people. 
 They were neat in their habits, and one is constantly struck with the freshness which 
 characterizes the colors of the paintings which have been preserved. 
 
 31S 
 
APLES FROM THE HEIGHTS.—This view was taken on the 5th of 
 
 June, 1894. We are looking eastward across the famous bay of Naples. The site of 
 
 the city is unequaled on earth. Mountains, plain, bay and sea combine to satisfy 
 
 the eye, and to stimulate the imagination. There is little in Naples itself to 
 attract the traveler except its collections of antiquities, especially from the exhumed 
 Herculaneum and Pompeii, and some fine works of art, chiefly ancient. Other Italian 
 cities show finer specimens of architecture and more extensive picture galleries. The 
 great opera house, San Carlo, is perhaps the finest structure in the city, and one of the 
 grandest in Europe. But the glory of Naples is to be found in its natural elements. Asa 
 graceful pen has said: ‘‘Thesun shines his brightest, and the zephyrs blow their softest ; 
 the sea is of the deepest blue, and the mountains of the most glorious purple.” 
 
 Mrs. Jameson, in her ‘“‘ Diary of an Ennuyée,’’ says: ‘‘ Whoever would truly enjoy nature 
 should see her in this delicious land. For here she seems to keep holiday all the year 
 round. To stand upon my balcony, looking out upon the sunshine and the glorious bay, 
 the blue sea and the pure skies, and to feel that indefinite sensation of excitement 
 quickening every pulse, and thrilling through every nerve, is a pleasure peculiar 
 to this climate, where the mere consciousness of existence is happiness enough,” 
 How lovely is this world! And if from the hearts of its inhabitants the 
 taint of sin and the love of it could be taken, what a heaven it would be! 
 What glories of the heavens overhang it, and what splendors of vegetation adorn it! 
 What majesty of mountains, and graceful curves of shore, and expanses of sea and 
 ocean, ennoble it! 
 
 he 
 
TRADA MARINA, NAPLES.—We face the west in this fine picture. 
 The long hill before us, with its private residences and ecclesiastical structures, its 
 tapering trees on the summit, its bared rocks and wooded slopes, is the hill through 
 which the famous old tunnel passes leading the traveler from Naples to Puteoli. 
 
 To our right is the largest public garden of the city—a popular resort for citizens, and 
 
 especially for soldiers. Here you may find the officers of the Italian cavalry riding in the 
 
 early morning, but then one can see soldiers almost anywhere and at any hour in Naples. 
 
 The picture just at this time seems quiet enough, and one may be misled, through the 
 
 good fortune of our artist, to fancy that such views are common in Naples. On the 
 
 contrary, it is almost impossible to convey an adequate idea of the stir and noise which 
 
 © 
 
 prevail in the Neapolitan streets—talking, shouting, rushing to and fro, venders of wares 
 yelling, drivers of carts swearing at and beating overburdened donkeys and horses, and 
 everybody seeking to attract attention. It is said that ““the Neapolitans talk all day and 
 for half the night.’”” And it is said again that in Naples ‘‘no one walks who can possibly 
 ride, and no one is silent who can possibly make a noise.’”’ But here is a scene of quiet 
 The strong sea wall, the broad pavement, the deserted street, the pleasant garden, the 
 quiet bay, the white buildings, the sloping hills, the overarching sky—this is Naples in 
 repose. In a short time the silence will be broken, and we may encounter the ‘‘amusing, 
 vivacious, insolent vagabonds—the lazzaroni,”’ the busy, noisy venders of fruits and drinks, 
 the curious tourists, and all the various elements, native and foreign, of this wonderful city. 
 
 —300— 
 
OP YRIGHT 998 BY REM BAIN, 
 
 NTERIOR PUBLIC GARDEN, NAPLES.—This is called the Villa 
 Nazionale, and was formerly known as the Villa Reale. It is the largest public 
 garden in Naples. It is also the principal promenade and pleasure ground in the 
 city. It is separated from the sea by the wide quay—a view of which we had in the 
 
 last picture. This garden was laid out in 1780, extended in 1807, in 1834, and again in 
 1875. The grounds are planted with trees of various kinds, among them some beautiful 
 palms, which remind one that he is still on the verge of the Orient. The grounds are 
 decorated with many sculptures. These, however, are not of special merit. They are 
 rather imitations of the works of ancient and modern masters. In the evenings when the 
 weather is good the Riviera de Chiaja which runs along the garden is thronged with 
 carriages of every description. It is ina place like this, when lighted by gas, and enlivened 
 
 by music, and fanned by the cool sea breeze, we get the charm of the Italian summer 
 night. There are in this garden a temple to the memory of Virgil, another in honor of 
 Tasso, a statue of the historian Giambattista Vico, and also a statue of Thalberg, the 
 pianist, who died in Naples in 1871. These public gardens are highly prized by the 
 citizens of Naples, particularly by those who can not afford a small garden of their 
 own. The masses of the people do not, however, congregate here. It is not their object to 
 seek seclusion or quiet. To those who delight in the blending charms of nature and art, 
 such resorts as the Nazionale are a perpetual joy. One who studies the natural and 
 artistic charms of Naples may repeat Izaak Walton’s thought: “If God gives such beauty 
 to us sinful creatures on earth, what must He not have prepared for His saints in 
 Heaven!” 
 
 See 
 
T. PAUL’S ROAD.—We have here a delightful view of the road between 
 
 Naples and Puteoli. We are looking toward the east and in the direction of 
 When this view was taken, June 5th, 1894, Vesuvius was plainly in 
 The rocky sides of the road were 
 literally covered with flowering plants and vines. We do not know that this road is called 
 
 ® 
 
 Vesuvius. 
 sight, but too distant to appear in the picture. 
 “St. Paul’s road,”’ but that is the name our artist gave it. Our thoughts had been on St. 
 Paul all day. We had spent the 5th of June at Puteoli. St. Paul landed at Puteoli, 
 according to Lewin, about the 15th of February, A. D. 61. He left about the 22d of 
 February, having remained in that town one week. Word had been sent to the disciples 
 in Rome that St. Paul had arrived at the sea-port, and that he would soon reach the 
 
 metropolis. The distance was about one hundred and forty miles. It is supposed that 
 Julius with his soldiers and prisoners passed from Puteoli through Cume and Liternum, 
 coming into the great Appian Way at Sinuessa, thirty-three miles from Puteoli. The 
 Appian Way runs from Brindisi to Rome. The track still remains. It was from thirteen 
 to fifteen feet broad, and the foundation was laid in stone. The distances were marked by 
 mile-stones, and at intervals of twenty miles were post stations. ‘There is something impress- 
 ive in the thought that we are treading in the footsteps of this man of Tarsus and of Jerusa- 
 lem, of Antioch and Corinth, of Malta and Rome. Faithful pilgrim he was! He traveled not 
 as a tourist to see the scenery of land and sea, but as an apostle to seek the souls of the 
 people. He counted all things but loss for the knowledge of Christ and the salvation of men. 
 
 —382— 
 
Sey tanes 
 Ss ait 
 te oe, 
 
 ancient Rome—the building of monuments to their dead by the side of the public 
 road! Of all the approaches to Rome the Via Appia was the most remarkable for 
 tie sumber and splendor of the sepulchers which lined the way. Most of these are 
 now but heaps of ruins. Upon some of them were placed statues and sculptures, which have 
 been found among the rubbish. The structures are very high and broken, mere mounds of 
 brick, stone, pebbles and earth, all fused by time into a solid mass. When erected they 
 were, no doubt, beautiful with polished marble, bas-reliefs, and noblest architectural 
 signs. Long since the treasures of art have been stolen from the dead to adorn the 
 ing-places and churches of the living. The tombs are of various forms—some round, 
 
 © = TOMB OF HORATIA.—It was a strange custom which prevailed in 
 
 some square, and some pyramidal. ‘They are built of brick, of stone bedded in cement, cr 
 of blocks of peperino.. Within a distance of two miles and a half on the Via Appia, Sir 
 William Gell noted fifty-one tombs on the right, and forty-two on the left of the road, and 
 he adds that ‘doubtless many more exist.’? The tomb of Horatia is about a half mile 
 beyond the Porta San Sebastiano—a gate of Rome. It is a ruin of great size, and many 
 things seem to indicate that it was of the imperial period. Here slept one great, and well- 
 beloved, perhaps, yet now how utterly forgotten! Hawthorne says: ‘Ambitious of 
 everlasting remembrance as they were, the slumberers might as well have gone quietly to 
 rest each under his little green hillock in a graveyard, without a headstone to mark the 
 spot.” 
 
 =383— 
 
 \ 
 i 
 i 
 
about three miles out from Rome. It was said by the Romans that all roads led to 
 
 their city, and the Appian Way was called the Queen of Roads, It was the oldest 
 
 and most celebrated, and was constructed by Appius Claudius the blind, B. C. 313. 
 At first it led from Rome to Capua, and was afterwards extended to Brindisi. Taverns were 
 distributed along the route that travelers might be provided with food. Appius Claudius 
 asury in the construction of this road. From 
 For some distance out of Rome the Appian 
 At first only the 
 rs the freed- 
 
 On APPIAN WAY NEAR ROME.—‘This scene on the Appian Way is 
 @ 
 
 is said to have exhausted the Roman tr 
 Brindisi to Rome is about two hundred miles. 
 Way was lined on both sides with tombs of the patrician families. 
 heroes of the early ages were here interred, but during the time of the Cz 
 
 men and sycophants and favorites of the emperors were also buried here. 
 Way was the great driveway of the emperors. 
 
 The Appian 
 It was the gayest and most fashionable 
 road leading into the city; yet it was also a burial-ground for fifteen or twenty miles 
 beyond the city wall. Beside the largest tomb on the Way was also the largest circus, 
 The idea of death seemed not in the least to lessen the mad search for pleasure among the 
 Romans. Not only tombs and circuses were found along the pian Way but the villas 
 of the wealthy families as well. When St. Paul passed this way, toward the last of 
 February, A. D. 61, he was accompanied by the friends who met him at the Appii Forum 
 and the Three Taverns. What must have been his thoughts as he passed between the 
 magnificent tombs, the villas and pleasure resorts along this celebrated route ! 
 
 ett 
 
more resounding name or a more imposing history than the Roman Forum. This 
 
 spot, ‘‘ where the Senate held its assemblies, and where the destinies of the world 
 
 were discussed, is the most celebrated and the most classical of ancient Rome.” 
 Forum, a Watin word, originally signified ‘‘an open place,” and is probably connected 
 with foras, ‘‘ out of doors.” ‘The Roman fora were places where the markets and courts of 
 justice were held. ‘The most ancient and celebrated of all the fora judicialia of ancient 
 Rome was the Forum Romanum, or, par excellence, the Morum Magnum, occupying the 
 quarter now known as the Campo Vaccino, or cattle market. The Forum lies between the 
 Arch of Titus and the Capitol. It is crowded with the relics of temples, basilicas, arches 
 and columns. ‘The most magnificent monuments once adorned it, which were so crowded 
 
 Gre VIEW OF THE FORUM. — Few spots on earth have a 
 
 upon one another that their heaped up ruins have proved sadly bewildering to the anti- 
 quarians, who have long sought to unravel the mysteries of the ag The principal objects 
 in the Forum are the Arch of Septimius Severus, which was erected A. D. 205 in honor of 
 that emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta; the temple of Vespasian, three col- 
 umns of which are still standing, and of remarkable beauty ; the temple of Saturn, the 
 ancient god of the Capitol, eight Ionic columns of which still remain; and the column of 
 Phocas, ‘‘The nameless column with a buried base’? of Byron, now happily brought to 
 light and found to bear a name that no one ever anticipated. It was erected in 608, and 
 may be regarded as the center of the Forum Romanum. ‘The ruin of the Forum 
 dates from Robert Guiscard, who, when called to the assistance of Gregory VII., left 
 it a heap of ruins. 
 
‘ -- 
 
 at 
 
 , 
 
 IBRARY OF CAESAR AUGUSTUS.—Thestately and superb palace of 
 the Cresars had its beginning in a modest mansion belonging to Hortensius, neither 
 elegant nor extensive. Augustus, even after he became emperor, lived there very 
 simply until its destruction by fire, after which the people of Rome insisted upon 
 
 building him a palace more worthy of their emperor and of the great empire over which 
 he ruled. The new building, erected by Augustus, was on the site of the houses of Cicero, 
 Hortensius, Catiline and Clodius. Augustus attached to the palace which he built a 
 temple, dedicated to Apollo, and a library, which afterwards became celebrated as the 
 Palatine Library. ‘Three broken and two whole columns are pointed out among the mass 
 of shapeless and almost undefined ruins as having formed a part of this library. Perhaps 
 no age was ever more given to literary patronage than that of Augustus. He encouraged 
 
 literature and art in every possible way. He made friends of distinguished men of letters, 
 
 and by generously rewarding their work made it possible for them to produce the best 
 of which they were capable. His example had its effect, and wealthy Romans also became 
 patrons of literature and art. Among the men of genius who flourished during this 
 time were Catullus, Ovid, Horace, Virgil, and the justly celebrated historian, Livy. 
 He was on terms of intimate association with the emperor, and wrote a history of Rome 
 comprising one hundred and forty books. Ovid, the graceful poet, fell from the 
 royal favor and was banished to Tomi, in Mcesia, where he wrote the ‘Tristia,” 
 in which he recalls the different buildings of his native city in describing the 
 
 route taken by his book, which he persuaded a friend to convey to the Imperial 
 Library. 
 
 =386— 
 
OUSE OF TIBERIUS, ROME.—The Palatine Hill is above the 
 
 2 southwestern angle of the Forum. Upon this hill was the earliest settlement of 
 
 Rome, and it is covered with the ruins of the palaces of the Caesars. Here we have 
 
 a view of the site on which Tiberius resided during the earlier part of his reign, 
 
 when he was under the influence of his aged and imperious mother, Livia. The row of 
 
 arches remaining are those of the soldiers’ quarters. In one place the three pavements in 
 
 use at different times may be seen, one above the other. Tiberius died in his seventy- 
 
 eighth year, A. D. 37. This was soon after the death of the Christ, whose gospel Paul 
 
 began to ‘‘ preach among all nations, beginning at Jerusalem.”’ Byron, in ‘‘ Childe Harold,” 
 describes the ruins of these old palaces: 
 
 “Cypress and ivy, weed and wall-flower, grown 
 Matted and massed together, hillocks heaped 
 
 On what were chambers, arch-crushed columns strewn 
 In fragments, choked-up vaults and frescoes steeped 
 In subterranean damps where the owl peeped 
 
 Deeming it midnight. ‘Temples, baths or halls? 
 Pronounce who can; for all that learning reaped 
 
 From het research hath been that these are walls. 
 
 Behold the imperial mount! Tis thus the mighty falls.” 
 
 The house of Tiberius is on the northwest portion of the Palatine and is south of the 
 house of Caligula. Napoleon III., between 1861 and 1870, spent one hundred and fifty 
 thousand dollars excavating the remains of the palaces of the Czesars. 
 
RCH OF CONSTANTINE FROM THE COLOSSEUM.—We 
 now look from the top of the Colosseum toward the southwest, and see the hand- 
 some and ancient arch of Constantine just beneath us. The arch of Constantine, 
 the most striking and beautiful of the Roman arches, stands midway between the 
 
 Colosseum and the entrance upon the Appian Way, and is built over the Via Triumphalis (the 
 
 modern Via DiS. Gregoria). . It was built to commemorate the emperor’s victory over 
 
 Maxentius, and, although it has been witness to the decline of art, and is made up of 
 
 fragments from the arch of Trajan (which stood on the Appian Way, near the temple of 
 
 Mars), it is still one of the most imposing monuments of Rome. As one views it from the 
 
 Colosseum, looking to the southeast, through the valley between the Ccelion and the Palatine 
 
 Hill, one may almost fancy himself in old Rome, and he sees the conqueror returning from 
 
 a fresh conquest, and with royal trophies in the wake of his chariots. Some writers have 
 
 believed this to be the arch of Trajan, adopted by Constantine, and loaded with additional 
 ornaments, as the form indicates that it was built before the decadence of art. There are 
 three archways, with four fluted columns of the Corinthian order on each front, one of 
 which was removed by Clement VIII. to finish the chapel of the Lateran. Medallions 
 and bas-reliefs refer to the history of Trajan, and the reliefs on the side of the 
 attic, and the eight statues of Decian captives on the architraye above each column, 
 belong also to the time of Trajan, and are easily distinguished from the inferior 
 sculpture of Constantine, two hundred years later. ‘The lower bas-reliefs, which are 
 crude and ill-designed, refer to the deeds of Constantine. On the front facing the 
 Colosseum the upper reliefs represent: (1) The triumphal entry of Trajan into 
 Rome; (2) distributing food to the people; (3) sitting in state and giving audi- 
 ence of a king. 
 
 —388— 
 
=) 
 
 NCIENT BRIDGE, ROME.—We are standing just above the new iron 
 bridge called Ponte Rotto. We are looking to the northwest, and the bridge we see 
 above the old arch is the Ponte Fabricio, that runs from the left bank of the Tiber 
 to the Isola Tiberina. The Ponte Fabricioruns from the bank to this island, and the 
 
 Ponte Cestio runs from the island to the right bank. The old arch we see between these 
 bridges is the last remaining arch of the ancient Pons Afmilius, built 181 B. C. On the 
 Isola Tiberina is the church of St. Bartolomeo. ‘This stands, in all probability, upon the 
 site of the ancient temple of Aesculapius. It was built A. D. 1000, by the Emperor Otho III. 
 s connected with Trastevere by an ancient bridge built by Augustus. The 
 was in its place when St. Paul was in Rome; and as he lived here on his 
 
 The island vy 
 old arch we se 
 
 first stay in Rome for two years, we do not doubt that his eyes rested upon it. Rome has 
 seven ancient bridges; five of them are still in use. The other two are picturesque and 
 alive in historic associations. It was from the ancient bridge begun by Afmilius Lepidus 
 and finished by Scipio Africanus, the censor, that the body of the Emperor Heliogabalus 
 was thrown into the Tiber. The bridge fell in the thirteenth century, and was rebuilt by 
 Pope Honorius III. After further restorations, the portion on the left bank of the river 
 was carried away and two arches lost, since which no attempt has been made to restore 
 them. It was upon the oldest and most celebrated of all the Roman bridges—the Pons 
 Sublicius—that Horatius Cocles and his two companions stood and kept at bay the 
 Etruscan army of Laus Porsenna. 
 
 —389— 
 
OME, FROM ST. NICHOLAS,—just beyond the railroad station at 
 Rome, and near its northern gates, stands the church of San Nicolo di Tolentino, 
 in the grounds of the Villa Massimo Rignano, on the site of the famous gardens of 
 Sallust, which occupied also the ridge of the opposite hill and the valley between. 
 
 the favorite 
 
 a 
 
 It was purchased for the emperors after the death of the historian, and w: 
 Petrarch wrote of this vicinity: ‘‘ Nowhere is there sweeter air. 
 wider prospect.’” Rome lies spread out below, the tortuous Tiber coiling round her hills, 
 and beyond it the castle of St. Angelo and the great dome of St. Peter’s, rising against the 
 misty purple and gold of the Campagna. Between stands the Pantheon, most beautiful of 
 the relics of Rome. There on the left is the immortal Colosseum, beautiful in decay, and 
 alive with the associations of two thousand years. 
 
 residence of Aurelian. a 
 
 “Tn yon field below 
 A thousand years of silenced factions sleep.” 
 
 Beneath, the fallen Forum and the ruin of the palace of the Caesars is but the outline of 
 a picture that memory and imagination must fill up. ‘A world is at our feet.’ No other 
 spot exists where the eye gathers within i 
 the history of Rome is the history of the world for more than two thousand y' 
 belongs to us all. Hawthorne tells us that after cursing Rome for her ancient crimes and 
 her present falsity and discomfort, we are astonished at the discovery, by and by, that 
 our heart-strings have mysteriously attached themselves to the Eternal City, and are 
 drawing us thitherward again, as if it were more familiar even than the spot where 
 we were born. 
 
 sweep such a harvest from the past as this, for 
 s, and 
 
 —390— 
 
a, 
 cit) sa 
 ig TASS es 
 
 ne 
 
 EM BAIN, 
 
 CORYRIGHT 098 2Y 8, 
 
 oh rd 
 
IEW OF THE TIBER.—4 great poet, celebrating the departed glories of 
 
 imperial Rome, says: 
 
 “Dost thou flow, 
 Old Tiber, through a marble wilderness ? 
 Rise with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress.” 
 
 The ‘‘yellow waves” of the noble river flow on through the ages, heedless of the 
 changes which befall, and bearing upon their bosom no sign of the rich commerce which was 
 long the pride of the Roman heart. The Tiber, most important of the streams of central 
 Italy, takes its rise among the Apennines. From its mountain sources it flows through a 
 valley spreading out in a southerly direction to its mouth at Ostia. ‘The whole length of 
 the stream is, in a direct line, one hundred and forty miles. ‘The physical character of the 
 
 Italian peninsula is such as to forbid the formation of great rivers. ‘Those taking their rise 
 among the perpetual snows of the Alps are generally constant in their flow; but those 
 which descend from the Apennines are more or less inconstant, and the Tiber rises to such 
 heights at times as to necessitate the building of walls on its banks. ‘he modern city of 
 Rome is built in the plain lying on each bank of the Tiber, which divides the city into two 
 unequal portions, winding through it from north to south, in a course of about three miles. 
 On the left bank a kind of amphitheater is formed by the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal and 
 Capitoline hills, encircling the ancient Campus Martius. This area takes in the greater part of 
 the modern city, the seat of trade, and also the great bulk of the population. Onthe right bank 
 of the Tiber is the narrow flat containing the districts of the Borgo and Trastevere. On the west 
 rises a ridge of hills, the important eminences of which are the Vatican and Janiculum. 
 
OMB OF CAIUS CESTIUS.—tThe only sepulchral pyramid in Rome is 
 situated close to the Porto di San Paolo (St. Paul’s Gate), and is well known to 
 English-speaking travelers as being near the old Protestant cemetery, of which 
 
 “The cemetery is an open spot among the ruins, covered in winter 
 
 with violets and daisies. It might make one in love with death to think that one should 
 
 be buried in so sweet a place.’ The heart of Shelley is buried in the new Protestant 
 cemetery near by. Here lies Keats, with the flowers he loved growing over him, and his 
 own inscription, “ Here lies one whose name was writ in water,” aboye him. ‘The 
 pyramid-tomb rises above the quiet place, adding to the atmosphere of repose. ‘‘ The tomb 
 of Cestius” says Rogers, ‘‘that old majestic pile, * * * has stood there till the language 
 spoken round about it has changed, and the shepherd born at its foot canread the inscription 
 
 Shelley wrote: 
 
 no longer.’ Caius Cestius was a Roman preetor and tribune of the people who died about 
 30 B. C., and Agrippa, his executor, erected this tomb to his memory, with two colossal 
 statues, which are not now in existence. Another man died not far away whose grave is 
 unknown, but his monuments stand in every Christian land. Of him Dean Houson writes: 
 “St. Paul was led to execution beyond the city walls on the road to Ostia. As he issued 
 forth from the gate his eyes must have rested for a moment upon that sepulchral pyramid 
 which stood beside the road, and still stands unsheltered mid the wreck of so many 
 centuries. Among the works of man that pyramid is the only surviving witness of the 
 martyrdom of Paul, a monument unconsciously erected by a pagan to the memory of the 
 martyr.”’ The tomb is one hundred and twenty-five feet high and one hundred feet wide 
 . at its upper base. It is of brick, covered with marble slabs. 
 
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 XTERIOR OF ST. PAUL.—tThe pilgrim to the Eternal City can not fail to 
 be forcibly struck by the immense number of monasteries, churches, and e 
 astics, ‘‘Eremites and friars, white, black and gray,” to be seen at every turn. 
 Among the famous basilicas that of San Paolo fuori le Mura, or St. Paul outside the 
 
 walls, occupies no insignificant place. It stands on the edge of the Campagnz 
 
 and a quarter beyond the Porta San Paolo and on the road to Ostia, now a site most desolate 
 and deserted. It was not so in the Middle Ages, when the surrounding country was a flour- 
 ishing suburb; but now it stands apart in lonely grandeur, deserted save by the few monks 
 who linger during the winter, but flee before the pestilent malaria as the summer 
 approaches. A Roman matron, Iucina, who had been won to the Christian faith, gave a 
 
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 about a mile 
 
 burial-place in her vineyard to the martyr apostle, St. Paul, and on this site the first church 
 was built in the time of Constantine. This was enlarged into a basilica in 386 by the 
 Emperors Valentinian II. and Theodosius. In the eighth century Leo III. restored it, and 
 each succeeding century saw it increase in beauty and splendor. In July, 1823, however, it 
 was almost entirely destroyed by fire, but immediately the work of restoration was 
 begun. Catholic princes, sovereigns, and each successive pope, levied great con- 
 tributions for this pious work, and in 1854 it was opened in its present form 
 by Pius IX. The length of the present basilica is 396 feet, not including the 
 tribune; the length of the nave 306, and the width of nave and side aisles 222 
 feet. 
 
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