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STANDARD COOKERY BOOKS. 
 
 MRS. BEETON’S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 7s, 6d. 
 MRS. BEETON’S FAMILY COOKERY BOOK. 6s. 
 MRS. BEETON’S EVERY-DAY COOKERY. 3s. 6d. 
 MRS. BEETON’S ALL ABOUT COOKERY. 2s, 6d. 
 MRS. BEETON’S COOKERY BOOK. 1s. 
 
 MRS. BEETON’S ENGLISHWOMAN’S COOKERY. 6d. 
 MRS. BEETON’S PENNY COOKERY BOOK. 1d. 
 
 THE ART OF PASTRY MAKING, 2s. 6d, 
 
 TINNED FOODS: HOW TO USE THEM. 2s. 6d. 
 LOUISA E. SMITH’S BONNES BOUCHES. 1s. 6d. 
 MARY HOOPER’S GOOD PLAIN COOKERY. ls. 
 EDITH A. BARNETT’S COOKERY INSTRUCTOR. 1s, 
 
 Lonpon: WARD, LOCK & BOWDEN, Lrp. 
 
THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY 
 Grom x French Point of Vieb 
 
PROPER SSION OF COOKERY 
 
 From a French point of bietv. 
 
 bet SOME ECONOMICAL PRACTICES 
 Peel An LO THk, NATION 
 
 BY 
 
 BUCY He VATES. 
 
 LECTURER TO THE INTERNATIONAL HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITION 
 COMMITTEE, 
 
 WARD, LOCK & BOWDEN, LIMITED, 
 LONDON: WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C. 
 NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE, 
 
 1894 
 [AZZ rights reserved.) 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 I. Economy As THE Sout or CooKERY . 1 
 
 II. Soups AND Purkes . ; 2 ee 
 
 III. VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DisHEs 28 
 
 IV. SAvApDs. ; Rett 5 
 V. SAUCES. ; eee 
 VI. Tue “ Davupinre,” or “ BRAISIERE” . 75 
 VII. FRyine Ann “ SAUTE”’-ING. Re ee 
 VIII. Somer GATEAUX AND COMPOTES . 89 
 IX. “Maicre” DISHES . STaLOG 
 X. FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES . Anca 2) 
 
 XI. Some LITTLE-USED VEGETABLES. toa 
 
 Vil 
 
Vill 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 2GUr 
 XIII. 
 XLV: 
 XV. 
 XVI. 
 XVII. 
 XVIII. 
 XIX. 
 SOS 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 se AND ONIONS. 
 
 TOMATOES 
 
 MusHROOMS 
 
 Fruits ‘‘'EN SALADES ” AND GLACES 
 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS 
 
 THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 
 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS 
 CHOICE SUPPER DISHES . 
 
 ADDENDUM. SOME STRICTLY FRENCH 
 RECIPES NOT INCLUDED IN FORMER 
 
 CHAPTERS . ' ‘ . . 
 
 200 
 
THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 OOKERY has long been thought to be an 
 
 art, and one also for which a special gift 
 is required, if any great degree of perfection 
 therein is to be attained. 
 
 This is perfectly true, and a thoroughly good 
 cook will be no mean “artist”? in every sense 
 of the word. 
 
 But very few people, even among those who 
 are daily employed in cooking, will give the 
 same amount of patience and diligence to attain 
 the distinction of meriting the term “ artist” in 
 this most important of professions as they would 
 give to gain a knowledge of music or painting, 
 or to learn a language. 
 
 And yet the preparation and serving of the 
 
 food we eat, in a right or a wrong manner, is 
 
 1X 
 
x LHE PROFESSION: OF. COOK 
 
 the very foundation of our home life; not only 
 does the health of the inmates greatly depend 
 upon the cook, but their tempers and spirits 
 also. 
 
 It is just in this part of the household where 
 what are commonly called “brains” tell to 
 most advantage, and where, alas, they are most 
 seldom thought to be needed. 
 
 Upon method, skill, and economy in the 
 kitchen depend so much the well-being of the 
 household, and these can rarely be found where 
 the kitchen is under the rule of a kitchen maid, 
 or even of the modern “ good plain cook.” 
 
 This department is as well worthy of the best 
 considerations of every true lady as any of the 
 many “higher branches ” which claim her atten- 
 tion in the world to-day. 
 
 The training—even the classical training— 
 which she receives at school need never unfit, 
 but rather make her the more apt a pupil when ~ 
 she gives the same amount of attention to learn 
 this profession which she gave to mathematics. 
 
 Brains tell everywhere, particularly in the 
 
THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY. Xl 
 
 kitchen. If our girls and young women would 
 study cookery as they study French and German, 
 starting from the A, B, C, and progressing 
 upwards, step by step, studying it in all its 
 branches until they might be said to have 
 “oraduated,” there would then be hope that 
 our kitchens might become as attractive to visit 
 as the studio or the music room. 
 
 The knowledge of how to save labour, and 
 economise not only time, but strength—which 
 is the real test of the practical from the theo- 
 retical—in this profession as in all others, is 
 only acquired by the earnest student. 
 
 If the natural taste for this be dull, the more 
 need to lay to it strength of will—resolution 
 born of a just judgment of the importance of 
 the knowledge she would acquire. 
 
 On the other hand, however good her inten- 
 tions may be, without this knowledge a great 
 deal of toil will be needlessly expended; the 
 result mortification, and the hcavy, wearing 
 sense of inferiority that puts the novice so soon 
 
 out of heart. 
 
Xli THE PROFESSION .OF COG. 
 
 In treating cookery as a profession there will 
 be found ample scope for various degrees of 
 talent ; all who enter for it should be willing to 
 pay the premium and give the necessary time 
 to learn it thoroughly. As the very lowhest 
 occupation is dignified by the manner in which 
 it is performed, so nothing is ‘‘ menial” or 
 beneath the attention of her who would excel 
 or assist others to excel in this department of the 
 world’s work, essentially the woman’s province, 
 where she reigns and rules by right of special 
 
 fitness. 
 
 A ee 
 
THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY. 
 
 CHAPTER 1. 
 
 Economy as the Soul of Cookery, 
 
 RUE economy is the soul of good cookery. 
 There is, perhaps, no word so little under- 
 stood as this word economy. It is too often 
 considered to mean parsimony, meanness, or stin- 
 giness. It will invariably be found the better 
 the cook the more economy will be practised. 
 
 What a so-called “ good plain cook” will 
 throw away or consign to the dog-kennel, an 
 ingenious French artiste will make into an 
 entrée or an entremet of the most tempting 
 kind. 
 
 The French are a nation of cooks, and they 
 cannot afford to dine without soup; yet in 
 Hngland, the most frequent excuse given for 
 
 B.C. B 
 
2 ECONOMY AS THE SOUL. OF €CORKREAe 
 
 the absence of the soup is the cost as well as 
 the trouble of preparing it. 
 
 Sometimes it is urged that ‘ We think soup 
 disagrees with us,” or “ My husband can’t take 
 soup”: and yet no Frenchman, whatever his 
 status in life, would think his meal complete 
 without his “‘ potage.”” Is there any reason to 
 suppose his digestive organs are constructed on 
 a different plan to his brother Englishman’s ? 
 
 The real reason—when soup is found to dis- 
 agree—may generally be traced to its over- 
 strength. It is not intended to furnish solid 
 nutriment, but to supply a want felt by most 
 people for something warm and savoury to 
 begin the meal with, and it will also be found 
 to greatly lessen the thirst for drink after- 
 wards, hence effecting a saving in the wine 
 cupboard. 
 
 Among the poor,a simple nourishing vege- 
 table soup would be found of great value, 
 largely dispensing with the, at present, almost 
 inevitable jug of beer, to which recourse is had 
 so frequently to “ wash down” or make up for 
 a dinner often far from appetising. 
 
 The saving, also, in the consumption of meat 
 when soup takes the precedence, is no small 
 argument in its favour. 
 
meonOowMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 3 
 
 Take, for example, the ordinary mid-day 
 meal of the French “ ouvrier.” The soup pot 
 has been put on the stove at an early hour; it 
 contains carrots, turnips, potatoes, peas, hari- 
 cots, leeks, etc., with a “ bouquet” (a variety of 
 herbs) and sorrel in abundance; the only thing 
 of the nature of meat is a.small piece of salted 
 pork, and this, with plenty of water, is left to 
 boil gently until required, often for several 
 hours. 
 
 The pork is almost dissolved by this time ; if 
 not, it is cut very small, and returned to the 
 pot, the contents of which go through the 
 “passoir,” or colander. It is well seasoned, 
 and is then ready to pour into plates; sub- 
 stantial, satisfying, and with a mighty hunch 
 of bread, this forms the staple of his meal. If 
 he be well off, a piece of meat and a salad may 
 follow this; but among the poor, a little fruit 
 is thought quite sufficient. 
 
 On Sundays, high days, and festivals, he will 
 partake of ‘ bouillon ”’—a small piece of beef 
 from the leg, boiled with the vegetables, but 
 left clear this time, and the vegetables served 
 on a separate dish—the meat served after- 
 wards. ; 
 
 Of course, in different parts of the country 
 
4 ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKER 
 
 this simple menu may vary somewhat, but in 
 southern France, where, if anywhere, economy 
 is to be found in perfection, it rarely consists 
 of anything more. 
 
 Among the peasants of the Vosges mountains 
 it is still more simple, their diet, year im, year 
 out, being mainly made up of potatoes, onions, 
 and bread ; yet they are a hardy a sinewy race. 
 
 The Swiss peasantry also greatly resemble 
 their French neighbours in their diet, with the 
 exception that they eat rather more meat—the 
 colder climate naturally calls for it; but true 
 thrift, economy in small things, is characteristic 
 of both nations. 
 
 All nations may learn from one another; as 
 a rule, inglish people have much to learn in 
 the art of thrifty cookery. They have not the 
 faculty possessed by their neighbours across the 
 silver streak, of making a delightful some- 
 thing out of the despised remains, too often, 
 alas! cast away as worthless. 
 
 The thrifty bourgeoise, trotting along in the 
 early morning with her market basket, would 
 be horrified to see the English butchers’ shops 
 with their piles of stale scraps and trimmings 
 all thrown to one side, just beginning to go 
 bad, and sending out an odour which makes the 
 
ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. ¢ 
 
 butcher’s stall a trial to visit; the fat portions 
 and suet all mixed up together, while the prime 
 joints are being lavishly cut off. 
 
 One of the great French “chefs” has said 
 that Hnelish meat could not be surpassed ; 
 when good, it needed no sauce with it, being of 
 aricher quality itself. That is true, but only 
 when one can purchase of the best. 
 
 Take a butcher’s shop in a provincial French 
 town: your first thought on entering would be 
 “how very little there is to buy,” and you see 
 all there is too—each piece set out ona separate 
 hook, the well scrubbed tables and counters ; 
 while as to fat (!) there is scarcely a morsel to 
 be had. 
 
 Iivery part of the different animals has its 
 own special destiny to fulfil, no portion is of 
 greater honour than another. Madame’s eye 
 is ever on the watch for the morsels for her 
 ‘“ragout,’ and the “‘marchand de frites’’ has 
 been beforehand with them all, collecting the 
 suet for his frying-pan. 
 
 Then, again, amongst the vegetables: Hng- 
 lish vegetables are not inferior in quality, yet 
 they lack the freshness and the crispness—also 
 the cleanliness—which makes this part of the 
 market so attractive to visit in French towns; 
 
 ¢ 
 
6 ECONOMY AS THE SOCL OF €CCR esa: 
 
 neither is the supply anything like what it 
 ought to be. Perhaps the “ Small Holdings 
 Act” may cause a change for the better in this 
 respect. 
 
 In the present day, when the prices of pro- 
 visions have so much increased, and still show 
 an upward tendency, it is very needful for 
 every family throughout the country to do all 
 in their power to lessen the consumption of 
 meat, thereby rendering it cheaper to those 
 possessed of less wealth than themselves. It 
 is a great mistake to depend too much upon 
 meat. 
 
 Where bones are thrown away, and fresh 
 meat is bought for soup making, it is certain 
 that much nutritive matter is absolutely wasted, 
 which under better management might be 
 turned to good account. 
 
 Of the many delicious and even charming 
 dishes composed of vegetables, few, indeed, are 
 much known in English households ; yet their 
 medicinal value is great, while they satisfy the 
 appetite, and save the pocket at the same time. 
 
 A dainty “plat de légumes,” served either 
 before or with the joint of meat, thereby acting 
 as a damper to the appetite, would be found to 
 be true economy, especially in houses where 
 
megVvOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 7 
 healthy children call to be fed. The variety— 
 ever capable of being extended—of these dishes 
 call for chapters to themselves. 
 
 With regard to economy in cookery, it will 
 have been seen, therefore, that it consists not 
 so much in living plainly, but rather in so 
 managing and arranging the various dishes 
 which compose the meal, that one shall spare 
 the other—by the use of simple means, lessen- 
 ing the consumption of the more expensive dish 
 or joint. 
 
 For the average housekeeper to do this easily 
 and effectively, she must bear in mind at least 
 two points: first, to keep herself aw courant of 
 the commodities which are in season; the time 
 when any article in the market is most plentiful 
 and cheap will generally be found to be the 
 time when it is most wholesome for food. 
 
 “arly” or forced varieties are rarely de- 
 sirable for ordinary food, however tempting 
 they may appear, and they are but seldom 
 bought by the truly thrifty housekeeper. 
 
 Throughout the winter months higher prices 
 are demanded for several kinds of food, but 
 the prudent and wise will “forestall the 
 market ’’in this respect, and lay in their stock 
 while they are at the cheapest. 
 
8 ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF GCOGKi ae. 
 
 There are ways and means of storing most 
 vegetables and fruits, even in households where 
 keeping room is limited; the main principle to 
 be observed in storing perishable articles, is to 
 exclude the air from them. 
 
 Another point to bear in mind, is to have the 
 right quantity only, so far as can be judged, 
 when providing for any particular dish. It is 
 the “bits left over”? which run away with the 
 money. 
 
 In the South it is sometimes laughable to see 
 how, when there happens to be a small portion 
 left over, what skill is displayed in so turning 
 it to account that it reappears under a fresh 
 disguise, and forms a sensible addition to the 
 next repast; but, as a rule, it takes the patience 
 and skill of a genuine Frenchwoman to accom- 
 plish this feat. 
 
 One great reason of the economy of French 
 methods of cooking is to be found in the 
 utensils employed by them, and not a little is 
 due to the different stoves. Of the latter there 
 is a great variety. 
 
 ‘The “bourgeoise Parisienne” has her char- 
 coal stove, with its white tiles and the miniature 
 baker’s oven built in the wall; her roaster is 
 quite a separate affair, resembling what is known 
 
Peevey AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 9 
 
 in England as a “ Dutch oven,” but for all her 
 only fuel is ‘‘ wood coal’’—*“‘ charbon de bois.” 
 
 By the way, these charcoal stoves are so easy 
 to set up, and so useful for many purposes, that 
 it is a marvel they are so httle known in 
 Kneland. 
 
 Built of brick, either in.a recess or close to 
 a kitchen wall; for neatness, the front and 
 sides are covered with tiles, and the edges 
 bound with iron. An opening a few inches 
 square, with a grating above it, holds the char- 
 coal, which lights rapidly and gives no smoke. 
 
 When not in use, the grating can be covered 
 with a loose tile, and the flat top will serve as 
 an extra table. During the course of a dinner 
 it will render astonishing service for sauces, side 
 dishes, ete. 
 
 In most French kitchens one of these fur- 
 naces is to be found, generally fitted with two 
 or three gratings, and the “ bourgeoise” will 
 prefer to use it for her soup pot, rather than 
 trust the latter to the more variable heat of her 
 ** cuisiniére.” 
 
 The true French cuisiniére, or range, 18 very 
 different, and in many respects much superior 
 to, as well as far simpler than, its English com- 
 peer. 
 
rOLCONOMY AS THE SOUL OCF CGR as 
 
 With its brightly polished table-hke top and 
 light ornamentation, it is an ornament to any 
 room, and the consumption of fuel is so little— 
 the heat being made to reach each part before 
 it passes up the chimney—that it is wonderful 
 such a clever inventive race as the Hnglish 
 have yet so much to learn in the art of stove 
 building. 
 
 To see their ranges, so heavily clamped and 
 barred, one might think the food cooking there- 
 in was expected to take to itself wings and fly 
 away. 
 
 Doubtless the labour attendant upon using 
 these ranges 1s one reason why cooking is 
 found to be such heavy work in middle-class 
 households. 
 
 Nearly all French cooking vessels are made 
 either of glazed earthenware or enamelled iron. 
 In great houses the housekeeper will proudly 
 show her extensive “ batterie de cuisine” of 
 immaculately shining copper; but these would 
 be seldom used. | | 
 
 Nothing is found to surpass the “terrine” 
 or earthen cooking vessels; they are long in 
 reaching the boiling point, but they will retain 
 the heat, and keep a more equable temperature 
 longer than any other kind; and this slow cook- 
 
Meevaes AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY I'M 
 
 ing is an essential in most of their methods of 
 cookery, particularly in soup making. 
 
 The favourite form for the “ pot-au-feu” is a 
 very deep one with a flat bottom, not very wide, 
 and the sides sloping upwards to a slightly 
 narrower opening at the top with a well-fitting 
 lid. This makes the perfection of bouillon. 
 
 Where more rapid cooking is desirable, as in 
 boiling of vegetables or sauces, nothing is found 
 to equal enamelled iron, not easily burnt at the 
 bottom, and quite easy to keep clean if only the 
 cook will take the precaution of filling up the 
 vessel with water immediately it is done with. 
 
 As the enamel retains the heat longer than 
 plain iron, whatever remains on the surface 
 hardens very quickly, making it a difficult 
 matter to get off again once it is allowed to 
 become dry. Where the enamel has become 
 discoloured or stained, it may be made white 
 again by boiling a little quicklime in the water. 
 
 Sand and powdered pumice-stone are ex- 
 cellent aids in cleaning saucepans, also earthen- 
 ware vessels of all kinds. 
 
 A French housewife has her regular cleaning 
 day for all her kitchen utensils, which is as 
 faithfully observed as her washing day. LHvery 
 article which admits of being polished is taken 
 
122ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COpkes- 
 
 down and literally scrwbbed with sand and strong 
 soda water till it shines again; a final rinse in 
 hot water, and a wipe with a clean towel before 
 it is restored to its place. 
 
 All tinware, iron, copper, or brass utensils 
 are kept in excellent condition by this means; 
 one or two hours’ steady labour will suffice. 
 
 I'rench country people throughout the land, 
 and even the townspeople in the southern towns, 
 reckon to keep at least one pig; and this most 
 useful animal is turned to good account. 
 
 If he is not “the gintleman that pays the 
 rint,”’ he at least does a very large share to- 
 wards maintaining the family. 
 
 Killed in the autumn, by pickling, drying, 
 and various other methods of curing, his flesh 
 provides meat for all the winter at least, and 
 has the advantage of being always at hand 
 should an emergency arise in the shape of an 
 unexpected visitor. 
 
 There are professional pig slayers and curers, 
 whose sole business it is to do everything that 
 is required in regard to the animal. ‘They make 
 the strings of sausages ready for smoking, the 
 hams for curing, the “black puddings,” the 
 “natés,’ the ‘‘fromages de porc’’; prepare 
 the pieces for the pickling tub, and, in fact, 
 
meovOmY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 13 
 
 undertake all the trouble and _ responsibility 
 connected with the occasion. 
 
 Then is the grand opportunity of the year 
 for the good “ménagére” to show her kind 
 heart. 
 
 There is the generous portion for the “curé” 
 or the “ pasteur,” according as her faith dic- 
 tates ; the gift to be bestowed on a less fortunate 
 friend or neighbour; and “the poor man at the 
 gate ”’ will not be overlooked. 
 
 With her pig safely disposed of, another 
 growing up in the pen, her vegetables well 
 stored and housed, her fruits preserved, and her 
 “dame Jeanne ” of oilin the cellar, the “ bonne 
 bourgeoise ” is proof against invasion, in what- 
 ever form it may come. 
 
 In this simple, homely fashion of living, an 
 unexpected guest is ever a welcome addition to 
 the family table. 
 
CHAPT Hira 
 
 V4 
 Soups and pPurees, 
 
 N starting on the subject of soups in general, 
 
 it will be well to classify them under three 
 
 divisions: Clear, thickened, and “ purées,” or 
 - vegetable soups. 
 
 The distinction between thickened soup and 
 a purée, lies in the fact of the former owing its 
 consistency to the introduction of some artificial 
 substance, such as rice, tapioca, flour, ete., while 
 the purée is made by carefully pressing all the 
 ingredients through a “tamis,” or wire sieve. 
 
 Pea soup is really purée of peas, tomato soup 
 purée of tomatoes, etc. 
 
 When rice, vermicelli, or macaroni are added 
 to a clear soup or stock, they should have been 
 previously boiled in water, otherwise they will 
 be apt to give a cloudy appearance to the soup. 
 
 Clear soup may be simply “bouillon,” or 
 
 broth, from beef, mutton, or veal, or it may be 
 14 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 15 
 
 —. 
 
 stock made from bones, or, again, the stock 
 from shin of beef or veal. 
 
 The same principle of cooking applies to each 
 and all—to bring it very slowly to boiling point, 
 and never to let it boil hard. 
 
 Many French cooks put the meat intended for 
 bouillon on the stove in nearly cold water, even 
 when it is intended to be eaten afterwards ; 
 but where it is deemed preferable to keep a 
 little more flavour in the meat, it should wait 
 until the water nearly boils, then be plunged 
 into the pot, and quickly come to boiling point 
 again, after which it should be drawn aside 
 from the fire, the vegetables added (either 
 whole or merely split in two), the little bunch 
 of herbs securely tied, then allowed to boil very 
 gently for two or three hours. 
 
 It is not customary to serve any vegetables in 
 the tureen with true French bouillon—they are 
 placed on a dish, and handed round, or reserved 
 to be eaten with the meat. 
 
 When making a broth from veal, it may be 
 treated in the same way, only as veal takes a 
 less time to cook, and soon becomes soft, it is 
 better to remove it when sufficiently done, and 
 make a different dish altogether of the meat. 
 
 When using shin of beef or veal, it would be 
 
16 SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 wasteful to treat it as the other parts of boiling 
 meat, as it contains really more nutritious 
 matter, which takes a much longer time to be 
 extracted. It should be placed in a deep brown 
 jar, and be relegated to the far corner of the 
 oven, and left to cook for several hours; then 
 carefully pour away all the hquor from it into 
 a clean vessel, and put in a cold place. 
 
 When vegetables are required to be added to 
 this, they should be boiled apart, never in this 
 stock, which merely requires warming up as it 
 is needed. 
 
 The meat, if carefully separated from all skin 
 and gristle, liberally seasoned, and pounded in 
 a mortar, makes very presentable potted meat, 
 quite good enough for every-day family use. 
 
 Clear soup is also made from bones, cooked 
 or uncooked, odds and ends of meat, and the 
 carcases of poultry. Always bear in mind that 
 it is stock, and to be treated as such. 
 
 No scraps or bones need ever be wasted. 
 Chop all bones with a hatchet into very small 
 pieces. All dry corners and trimmings of meat 
 are valuable also, particularly if they are brown. 
 
 In soup made of this stock, vegetables may 
 be added in a variety of ways. Cut very small 
 indeed, and frizzled in a little clear fat till they 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 17 
 
 are just brown, then it is known as “ Julienne 
 soup’’; or cut small, and plain boiled, then it 
 is “consommé” (either with or without the 
 addition of rice and a little brown gravy) ; 
 or the carrots may be grated, the remaining 
 vegetables cut into dice. 
 
 It is to this kind of stock, also, that macaroni 
 and vermicelli are added, and the same stock 
 forms the foundation of mulligatawny and the 
 richer kinds of soup, which properly come under 
 the division of thickened soups. 
 
 If a thickened soup is still required clear, it 
 may be kept so by using tapioca or potato-flour 
 as the thickening medium. 
 
 If tapioca be added early enough, it will 
 completely dissolve and become perfectly 
 smooth ; sago is a similar agent, but it never 
 quite loses its grain, neither is it quite so clear. 
 If ever ordinary flour be used, it will be found 
 a great improvement to first bake it in the oven. 
 
 There are many thickening agents sold by 
 grocers, but few of them are to be trusted ; it 
 is better to compound one’s own, although it 
 may take more time to do it. 
 
 Bread is an ingredient very largely used both 
 in France and Switzerland in soup making ; 
 either put in the pot with the vegetables, and 
 
 P.C. C 
 
i 7 bi ky Oe eS tat 
 
 18 SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 allowed to dissolve, or cut into dice and deli- 
 cately browned in butter, then put in the tureen 
 for the soup to be poured upon it, it forms a 
 substantial addition to, and greatly increases 
 the nourishing properties of the “ potage.” 
 
 Now we come to consider the purées—true 
 vegetable soups. 
 
 The first desideratum in the making of a 
 successful purée is patience on the part of the 
 cook, for upon the patient rubbing of all the 
 ingredients through the sieve will hang all the 
 quality of the soup. It is by no means labour 
 spent in vain. 
 
 The most common vegetable soup is the kind 
 known as ‘‘ Soupe a la Bataille,” as all the 
 vegetables are supposed to be fighting with 
 each other. 
 
 With many people this is a foundation soup, 
 and is varied by adding a larger quantity of 
 the particular vegetable which is to give it its 
 name for the day—more peas, if it is called pea 
 soup, etc. 
 
 In the south of France a vegetable purée will 
 have nothing but a little onion and a few savoury 
 herbs added to its main ingredient. 
 
 Lentils, peas, haricots, beans, and potatoes 
 are the most frequently used for purées. They 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 19 
 
 are all rendered much richer and smoother to 
 the taste if one or two beaten yolks of eggs are 
 added the last thing before bringing to the 
 table. 7 
 
 When a white soup is desired, milk or cream 
 is added, and the latter should be made hot in 
 a saucepan before putting into the tureen. 
 
 Turnips, chestnuts, potatoes, Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, vegetable marrows, and white haricot 
 beans, all make most delicious white soup. 
 
 The vegetables are indeed few in number 
 which are not pressed into the service of the 
 soup pot in one form or another. 
 
 In green soups, where it is desirable to keep 
 the colour nice, it is well to put the green 
 vegetables in boiling water with a little salt 
 added, and a grain of carbonate of soda, and 
 let the cover of the pot be tilted to allow the 
 steam to escape. 
 
 A delicate potage, and one which is con- 
 sidered a specific for indigestion by the good 
 people of the south, is made as follows:—A 
 wood slice of white bread is cut into dice, and 
 put in the tureen, four eggs, yolks and whites 
 beaten separately; with the yolks four spoon- 
 fuls of olive oil are mixed, and this is poured 
 over the bread. 
 
20 SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 A quart of water is boiled with a few shallots, 
 a clove and a peppercorn or two, into this the 
 beaten whites are stirred, and a few spoonsful 
 of cold milk ; the whole is then poured into the 
 tureen, and quickly mixed together. 
 
 This is called an ‘ eau bouillie.” 
 
 As there are but few things, whether of fish, 
 flesh, fowl, or vegetables which will not lend 
 themselves to soup making, given a fair intelli- 
 gence with patience, industry, and cleanliness 
 on the part of the cook, the variety is almost 
 inexhaustible to the student of this branch of 
 the profession. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 For a quart of soup, boil three or four 
 medium-sized potatoes, then mash them quite 
 smooth, and put them into the stewpan with 
 nearly the quantity of boiling water. ~ Remove 
 the outer skin from a large white onion, melt 
 a small lump of butter, then slice the onion 
 into it and let it stew until perfectly tender, 
 but not brown. When done, dredge a little 
 baked flour over, to absorb the butter, then stir 
 this gradually into the boiling liquor; add salt ~ 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 21 
 
 and pepper to season it well, and let it boil 
 gently until required. Just before pouring into 
 the tureen stir in two tablespoonfuls of hot cream, 
 and a teaspoonful of dried and sifted parsley. 
 To improve the appearance of the soup, a 
 whole carrot may be boiled at the same time 
 as the potatoes, then cut into fancy shapes and 
 rounds and added to the whole. The beaten 
 yolk of an egg, anda little more butter, will 
 
 OD?) 
 make the soup very much richer. 
 
 Brown Onion Soup. 
 
 A little clear stock is required for this. 
 
 Skin two or three large onions, slice them as 
 thinly as possible, and fry them until thoroughly 
 tender and well browned ina little beef dripping. 
 Drain them. Make the stock almost boiling hot 
 in your stewpan. Mixa little baked flour with 
 the dripping in the frying pan, stir it over the 
 fire to brown it. Add this gradually to the 
 stock, see that it is perfectly smooth. Add the 
 onions next, and leave it to simmer for half an 
 hour. Remove all fat from the surface, add salt, 
 pepper, a spoonful of sharp sauce, same of 
 mushroom ketchup, and a drop of caramel if it 
 be not brown enough already. Serve over 
 fried croutons. 
 
22 SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Use either fresh or tinned tomatoes. w 
 
 Melt two ounces of fresh butter, and frizzle 
 first a few chopped shallots, or one white onion. 
 
 Next skin half a dozen fine tomatoes, and 
 slice them into the butter, and stew them thus 
 until quite dissolved. Have a quart of water, 
 or the same quantity of clear broth, ready in the 
 stewpan. When it boils throw in the white part 
 of a slice of bread cut into dice. Add the con- 
 tents of the smaller stewpan to this, let all 
 simmer together for awhile, then pour through 
 a strainer, rubbing the ingredients well that 
 nothing good may be left behind. 
 
 Return to the stewpan, season it well, stir in 
 the yolk of an egg beaten up in a cup of milk, 
 let it nearly boil again, then serve. 
 
 Watercress Soup. 
 
 Boil half a pint of white haricots until 
 thoroughly tender, rub them through a fine 
 strainer, and add a quart of boiling water to 
 the purée thus obtained, 
 
 Chop up quite finely a large bunch of washed 
 and picked watercress,—and also a handful of 
 green chives, a bunch of spring onions, some © 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 23 
 
 chervil, parsley, sorrel;—in fact anything green 
 which you may be able to obtain. 
 elt two ounces of fresh butter, frizzle the 
 
 chopped green stuffs in this until they show 
 signs of turning colour, then stir them briskly 
 into the liquor in the stewpan. Season well. 
 
 The soup ought to be sufficiently thickened 
 by the haricots, but if not, wet a teaspoonful 
 of potato flour and stir that in, letting the hquor 
 boil up once afterwards. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup. 
 
 Clear stock from mutton, beef or veal; pour 
 boiling water over a small quantity of thin ver- 
 micelli; then drain it, and cut into short lengths 
 with a sharp knife, and throw into the stock. 
 Cut quite small one carrot, half a head of celery, 
 and half a dozen fine leeks. Let these all boil 
 until tender in a separate vessel; then add 
 them to the stock, and season it well. 
 
 If macaroni be added instead of vermicelli, 
 let it boil separately in a saucepan for twenty 
 minutes; then drain and add to the stock. 
 
 Should it be preferred that the soup be 
 thickened, use a spoonful of brown roux for 
 the purpose; and cook the vegetables in a 
 
24 ~ SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 little clarified fat instead of water. Add the 
 macaroni or vermicelli the last of all. 
 
 White Stock Soup. 
 
 A quart or more of stock made from knuckle 
 of veal, chicken or ham bones. Boil an onion 
 and a turnip in a small quantity of this stock; 
 when tender, chop them up finely, and add 
 them to the remainder of the clear liquor. Boil 
 half a pint of fresh milk, and thicken it with a 
 tablespoonful of potato flour previously wetted ; 
 stir it into the stock, season with salt, pepper, 
 and a grate of nutmeg, and just before servy- 
 ing, stirein half an ounce of fresh butter. 
 
 Purée of Haricot Beans. 
 
 Let the beans soak over night; set them on 
 with sufficient water to cover them, and boil 
 them for three or four hours. Rub them 
 through a sieve, leaving nothing but skins be- 
 hind; to every pint of the purée thus obtained 
 add a pint of boiling milk. Season liberally ; 
 chop a few shallots very finely, and cook them 
 in a little butter ; dredge a little flour over them - 
 to absorb the butter, then stir into the purée. 
 Add a tablespoonful of cream before bringing 
 to table. 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. ** 25 
 
 When fresh “ button”? mushrooms are obtain- 
 able, a score of them may be skinned; then 
 gently boiled for a minute or two, drained, and 
 added to the soup. 
 
 Purée of Peas or Lentils... 
 
 Soak these also for a couple of hours. Boil 
 them in the right quantity of water required 
 for the soup. When beginning to: dissolve, 
 strain through a sieve as before, and return to 
 the stewpan. Crumble a little stale roll into 
 this liquor, and season with pepper and salt. 
 
 Chop finely half a dozen fresh spring onions 
 or leeks, a bunch of fresh sweet herbs, and a 
 few leaves of spinach. Cook these in a little 
 butter, then stir into the purée. | | 
 
 Purée of Turnips and Parsnips. 
 
 Pare half a dozen sound white turnips, and 
 half as many parsnips; add tothem half a head 
 of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen 
 leeks, and an onion. | | 
 
 Boil all together in a quart of water for three 
 hours. Strain and rub all well through a 
 colander. Return to the pan; add enough 
 boiling milk to make up the required quantity, 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 
 
 bo 
 (@>5 
 
 season well, and stir in a tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichoke Soup 
 
 is made very similarly to the above, substituting 
 the artichokes for the turnips. 
 
 Purée of Carrots. 
 
 Use clear stock made from bones or shin of 
 beef. 
 
 Grate a large carrot; chop finely a red onion, 
 and skin two or three tomatoes. let all these 
 stew together in a covered vessel with a little 
 clear beef dripping, until thoroughly cooked. 
 Then stir them into the heated stock; skim off 
 superfluous fat, season well, and crumble a 
 French roll into the liquor. Let all come to 
 boiling-point; then pour over a few fried 
 croutons in the tureen. 
 
 Gamekeeper’s Potagre. 
 
 From the remains of game and poultry the 
 following savoury soup may be made. Cut off 
 any nice firm parts of meat, and reserve them 
 for frying. 
 
 Make a stock from bones and trimmings, 
 adding carrots, turnips, onions, herbs, and 
 
SOUPS AND PUREES. 27 
 
 whole peppercorns to the pot; let this cook 
 many hours. Strain the stock and remove all 
 fat. Cut the meat into small neat pieces; roll 
 in reasoned flour, and brown them well in a 
 frying-pan. 
 
 Place the meat in the stock, and let that 
 merely simmer. [rizzle a minced onion in the 
 same fat until brown, then dredge a litle 
 baked flour over, sprinkle with salt, add a pinch 
 of dried sage, and a drop of caramel; stir these 
 into the stock, then let all simmer for half an 
 hour, and serve at once. 
 
 It should be of the consistency of cream, 
 highly seasoned, and of a light brown colour. 
 
 A spoonful of vinegar is a great improvement 
 to thickened and much seasoned soups. 
 
 All soups should be seasoned sufficiently 
 before taking them to table ; it is most objec- 
 tionable to find them requiring salt before they 
 can be eaten at all. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Vegetables and Wegetable Dishes. 
 
 EGETABLES, as a rule, are not suffici- 
 
 ently appreciated amongst English peo- 
 
 ple, neither are they cultivated in the quantity 
 
 and variety, nor exposed for sale with the 
 
 cleanliness and care which make this part of 
 a continental market so attractive to visit. 
 
 A well prepared dish of vegetables tempt- 
 ingly arranged, with an eye to contrast of 
 colour, may often be served in place of a dish 
 of meat; particularly in large families would it 
 be found most economical, sparing the joint, 
 and frequently obviating the necessity for a 
 second dish of meat; or if served cold, as a 
 salad, will prove a most acceptable accompani- 
 ment where cold meat is a dreaded dish. 
 
 The medicinal virtues of fresh, well-dressed 
 vegetables are great; they are blood purifiers, 
 
 28 
 
Peer IASLTES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 29 
 
 as well as being easy of digestion, and most 
 nutritious. 
 
 If freshly gathered out of the garden, they 
 should be washed as they are wanted, and not 
 allowed to remain in water; but when bought 
 in town, it is often needful not only to wash, 
 but to soak them in water for some time, to re- 
 gain something of their original freshness. 
 
 If not the happy possessor of a bit of garden 
 ground (and it is wonderful, with careful man- 
 agement, how much may be got out of ever so 
 small a piece), it is a wise plan to treat with a 
 farmer or cottage gardener for a regular 
 supply. 
 
 To buy in shops or of costermongers is not 
 cheap, besides the certainty that your purchase 
 has suffered considerable handling before it 
 reached you. 
 
 If laid on the floor of a cool cellar, taking 
 care they do not touch each other, and are not 
 wet at the time, vegetables may be kept quite 
 good for a week in summer time; but in the 
 autumn, when the crops are gathered in, a 
 frugal housewife will lay in her store: carrots, 
 turnips, parsnips, beetroot, potatoes, and such- 
 like are best kept in dry sand. 
 
 Celery and leeks keep quite fresh if put ina 
 
30 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DISHeEs. 
 
 box of earth; onions should be strung together, 
 and hung up. : 
 
 In nearly all dishes and soups made of vege- 
 tables, herbs play an active part, particularly 
 sorrel and parsley. 
 
 During spring and summer they are easily 
 obtained fresh, but for winter use the parsley 
 should be dried in bunches, as likewise a supply 
 of mint, thyme, marjoram, sage, and, in fact, 
 any herb you can procure. 
 
 The secret of keeping dried herbs a good 
 colour is to dry them very quickly and 
 thoroughly, hang them as near the kitchen 
 stove as possible ; when dry, rub them through 
 a tamis, and bottle for use. 
 
 Sorrel is gathered in large quantities, and 
 boiled like spinach, with coarse salt, then kept 
 in a deep stone jar. 
 
 In cooking vegetables, it is most important to 
 keep them a good colour, particularly in cook- 
 “ ereens.”” 
 
 To do this, it is needful always to place them 
 in boiling salt and water, and leave the ld of 
 the saucepan slightly tilted, to let the steam 
 escape. 
 
 For white vegetables, such as turnips, cauli- 
 flowers, salsifies, etc., the same precautions 
 
 ins 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 31 
 
 should be observed, and a little vinegar be 
 added to the water. 
 
 A French cook will frequently take these out 
 of the water when only partly cooked, and let 
 them finish by simmering them in white sauce; 
 this keeps them a very good colour indeed. 
 
 Any vegetables if cooked more than the 
 proper time will soon become soddened; they 
 should be lifted out of the water the moment 
 they are done. 
 
 And now we come to consider vegetable 
 dishes proper. 
 
 Here there is scope for much of taste and 
 judgment, and the artistic eye of the lady cook 
 as well as the skilled hand of the professional, 
 for upon the arrangement of colour depends 
 much of the success of the dish. 
 
 Take, for instance, a “ plat de carrottes,”’ 
 with its pretty contrast of white and red and 
 green, or the creamy whiteness of ‘‘ choufleurs 
 a la créme,” and the very pretty dish of spinach 
 with the white and yellow eggs reposing on their 
 dark green bed, and say if it is not so. 
 
 The “ garniture ” of these dishes will call for 
 as much taste as the arrangement of a bouquet. 
 
 Finely chopped parsley is the cook’s grand 
 resource in nearly all these compounds, and 
 
 v 
 
32 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLES 
 
 truffles, capsicums, eggs, even flowers, all are 
 pressed into the service of ornamentation. 
 
 As it is the custom in France to serve most 
 vegetables as a separate course, quite as much 
 care is given to their preparation as to a 
 course of meat, and various are the forms they 
 are made to make; the sauces which accompany 
 or disguise them, and the dressings which, if 
 served cold, transform them into delicious 
 salads. 
 
 A green vegetable, or ‘dish of greens,” 
 served as an English cook sends them to table, 
 would ina French cuisine be considered quite 
 an anomaly ; there they would, after being well 
 drained, be tossed up in butter, seasoned, some 
 fragrant herbs added, and, generally, fried 
 bread would be sent up with them. 
 
 Peas, haricots, broad beans, cabbages, and 
 cauliflowers are certainly improved by this 
 treatment, so are potatoes; and white sauce, 
 either with or without parsley, is a frequent 
 accompaniment to these and many other kinds 
 of vegetables. Some, again, after being par- 
 tially boiled, are fried in batter, as salsify and 
 parsnips ; these make an excellent luncheon or 
 supper dish. 
 
 When onions are used, they should be first 
 
Peet ALLS AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 33 
 
 lightly and quickly browned in fat, then drawn 
 away from the fire, and allowed to cook slowly 
 under cover; this draws the juices out, and 
 makes them very much more easy of digestion. 
 
 Vegetables, if added to “ ragouts’”’ of meat; 
 make them very much more savoury, and 
 greatly economise the amount of meat. Car- 
 rots accord best with beef, turnips and parsnips 
 best with mutton and veal, while tomatoes suit 
 all meats. 
 
 Remnants of cold meat, which are often a 
 source of perplexity to the economical house- 
 keeper, may, with a judicious use of very 
 simple means, be turned into many a delicious 
 dish. ; 
 
 Green artichokes and asparagus are delicious, 
 and do not come within the reach of the poor 
 man, except he have a garden; but Jerusalem 
 artichokes are both cheap and delicate, also 
 very nourishing. Mushrooms, either stewed or 
 broiled, are the delight of all classes, and well 
 replace a dish of meat. 
 
 The forms which potatoes may be made to 
 assume are almost legion; while a good potato 
 may be spoiled by bad cooking, an inferior one 
 may, with proper management, be rendered 
 comparatively good. 
 
 B.C, D 
 
34 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES, 
 
 ae 
 
 Large quantities of this most useful vegetable 
 are constantly wasted in many families, owing 
 to the way in which they are dressed. 
 
 How is it that the stalls of the “ marchand 
 de pommes-de-terre frites”? are never seen in 
 Kngland, while they are so common in France, 
 where they do a thriving trade? 
 
 Vegetables are not usually associated with 
 “sweet dishes’”’?; but the cook who has once 
 succeeded in making a vegetable plum-pudding, 
 will find it a formidable rival to her very best 
 and most time-honoured recipe. 
 
 It is an open secret that turnips and veget- 
 able marrows are in great request in the large 
 jam and marmalade factories; and it is really 
 surprising how readily these two vegetables 
 adapt themselves to this sort of use, having 
 the faculty of absorbing whatever flavour is 
 added to them. 
 
 Many of the following recipes are distinctively 
 French, and only those vegetables which have 
 not been treated of elsewhere will be found 
 here mentioned. 
 
 Sea Kale in Cream. 
 Boil sea kale in salted water until it is just 
 tender, then drain it and lay in a dish, and 
 
ere GL lAbLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 35 
 
 —— 
 
 cover with white sauce; or, better still, let the 
 kale only be par-boiled, and finish cooking it 
 in the sauce, stirring a cupful of cream into the 
 latter at the last. 
 
 Before sea kale is in the market, a very 
 similar dish to the above may be made by boil- 
 ing a head of celery, and dressing it the same 
 way. Use only the whitest parts. 
 
 Green Artichokes, ‘‘a la Barigoule.” 
 For large-sized artichokes :— 
 
 Cut off the stalks and remove the tips from 
 the leaves. Boil them in salted water until 
 tender, then drain them, and press between a 
 cloth to exclude all water. 
 
 Mix together a tablespoonful of sausage meat 
 with as much butter, a few bread-crumbs, a 
 spoonful of flour, the same of minced herbs, 
 and a little seasoning. Stir this mixture over 
 the fire for about five minutes, then carefully fill 
 in the spaces between each leaf of the artichokes 
 with it, and place them side by side in a shallow 
 stewpan; pour a little butter or clarified fat 
 over them, and bake quickly for five minutes. 
 
 Lift them out on to a dish; mix a spoonful of 
 sharp sauce with the butter, and pour over all. 
 
36 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE Dirge, 
 
 Green artichokes, after boiling, are commonly 
 served with dissolved butter; or if cold with a 
 “sauce poirade” (see Chapter V.). The fol- 
 lowing way is also excellent :— 
 
 Remove the stalks, split each one in two, and 
 boil them for five minutes. 
 
 Make a rich brown sauce from a little clear 
 stock and brown roua; add to it one onion, a 
 bunch of herbs, and glassful of white wine; 
 season well. 
 
 Put the artichokes into this; cover up, and 
 stew for an hour. Strain the sauce, place the 
 artichokes in the middle of the dish, and pour 
 the sauce around them. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes, a la Maitre-d’hotel. 
 
 Wash the artichokes, and put them to boil in 
 salted water with the skins on. When tender 
 enough for a skewer to penetrate them, drain 
 away the water, peel them, and cut into short, 
 thick pieces. Have ready two ounces of butter 
 melted; put the artichokes into it, turn them 
 about, and sprinkle them with pepper and - 
 chopped parsley. When slightly frizzled serve 
 them up. A dash of vinegar is an improve- 
 ment. | 
 
PeCeIASLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 37 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes in Sauce. 
 
 After washing and paring them, boil them in 
 water containing vinegar and salt until tender, 
 then serve in white or brown sauce, or sauce 
 poulette, according to discretion. 
 
 Cauliflowers au Gratin. 
 
 Boil them as if for eating with white sauce ; 
 drain and crush them with a fork, add a few 
 bread-crumbs or a little cooked macaroni, a 
 nob of butter, a cupful of cream, and plenty of 
 pepper and salt. Butter a shallow dish, pour 
 the mixture into it, sprinkle the surface with 
 bread-crumbs, and bake until slightly browned. 
 
 Cauliflower ‘‘au Fromage.” 
 
 Boil a large white cauliflower; drain it, and 
 break it carefully into two parts, 
 
 Make a small quantity of good white sauce, 
 and stir into it a spoonful of grated Parmesan, 
 and a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
 
 Butter a fancy dish which will stand firing ; 
 break up half the cauliflower into small bits, and 
 put at the bottom of the dish, cover with a layer 
 of the sauce. 
 
 Place the other half of the cauliflower on top 
 
38. VFAGETABLES AND VEGETABLE 
 
 of this; well cover every part of it with tho 
 remainder of the sauce; sprinkle it with more 
 cheese, pour a little melted butter the last thing 
 over the whole, and place the dish in the oven 
 to brown the surface. 
 
 Fried Salsify. 
 
 Scrape the salsify, and throw them into vine- 
 gar and water to preserve the colour; boil them 
 until just tender in strong salt and water. 
 
 Drain them, flour each one, then dip them 
 into a batter, and drop them into boiling fat. 
 Fry until brown; lift them carefully out and 
 serve very hot, garnished with parsley. 
 
 Salsifies, when boiled, may be served in 
 white or brown sauce, or cut small and added 
 to stews of meat. 
 
 Asparagus tops a la Créme. 
 
 This is for very thin, green asparagus; the 
 finer kinds with thick fleshy stalks are invari- 
 ably served with the accompaniment of pure 
 melted butter or white sauce; or, if cold, the 
 cruet containing salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil 
 is passed round to each individual partaking of 
 them. 
 
 Cut the asparagus into inch lengths; leave 
 
PEerTABLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 39 
 
 _———__» 
 
 out all the white part, throw the pieces into 
 oiling water for about two minutes, then drain, 
 place them in a stewpan with butter, a lump of 
 sugar, some pepper, and a teacupful of water; 
 cover up and let them stew for at least an hour. 
 Remove the onion, and thicken the sauce with 
 the yolk of an egg anda little cream. Serve 
 hot over a thin slice of fried bread. 
 
 Petits Pois. 
 
 Throw the shelled peas into boiling salted 
 water for one or two minutes, not more; then 
 drain them. 
 
 Dissolve a little butter at the bottom of a 
 stewpan; put in the peas, two small onions, a 
 sprig of mintand parsley, sprinkle with pepper; 
 add a lump of sugar, and finally cover the top 
 with a cabbage lettuce cut in half, and pour in 
 half a teacupful of water. Put on the lid, and 
 simmer the whole for nearly an hour. Remove 
 the lettuce, herbs, and onions, and serve the 
 peas with the sauce as it is, or thicken the latter 
 by the.addition of a yolk of egg and cream. 
 
 The above is for peas when served alone; 
 when intended for accompanying meat, use a 
 little of the fat from the joint, and omit the 
 thickening agents. 
 
40 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DISAES. 
 
 Stuffed Cucumbers. 
 
 Prepare a mince from the remains of cold 
 meat, poultry, or fish; season it highly, and 
 make it moist with gravy. If a purely vege- 
 tarian stuffing be desired, make it of bread- 
 crumbs, parsley and chives, butter and season- 
 ing, and moisten with a beaten egg. 
 
 Pare a short thick cucumber, and with a corer 
 remove all the seedy interior; press the stuffing 
 into it until it be quite full. Melt a good-sized 
 Jump of butter in a stewpan, place the cucum- 
 ber in it Gif it will not go in without, cut it in 
 two), put in an onion and a bunch of herbs, also 
 a cup of water; cover up and stew gently for an 
 hour or so. Remove to a dish, take out the 
 onion and herbs, thicken the butter with a 
 little potato flour, season it, add a spoonful of 
 chopped parsley and a few drops of vinegar ; 
 let it boil, then pour over the cucumbers. 
 
 Aubergines Farcies. 
 
 Though but rarely seen, this vegetable is a 
 most delicious one. 
 
 Pare each one, and spht them down length- — 
 wise ; remove the soft interior part. 
 
 Melt a little butter, and place the half auber- 
 gines to simmer inthis. When slightly browned, 
 
PRGLTASBLES AND- VEGETABLE DISHES. 41 
 remove them to a fireproof dish, and stir into 
 the butter a teaspoonful of flour and a few 
 spoonfuls of gravy. Chop up the portions 
 which were removed from the insides; add a 
 good spoonful of fresh herbs minced and salt 
 and pepper to them, then mix in with the sauce. 
 Let this cook awhile, then fill up the cavities of 
 the aubergines, sprinkle the surface with bread- 
 crumbs, place a few bits of butter in the dish, 
 and bake quickly for ten minutes. 
 Serve in the same dish. 
 
 Grilled Aubergines. 
 
 Split them lengthwise, and steep them in 
 salad oil for ten minutes, then drain them, and 
 sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil them 
 over the fire, turning on both sides. 
 
 _ Aubergines may also be split and fried; also 
 baked simply with butter. 
 
 Fried Parsley 
 
 is not as frequently used as it should be; for 
 garnishing hot pastry or fried dishes it should 
 always be used in preference to fresh. Place 
 the picked sprigs in a frying-basket, and plunge 
 that for exactly one minute into boiling fat. 
 
42 VEGETABLES AND VEGETALLE Piste 
 
 Curried Vegetables. 
 
 The following vegetables all make excel- 
 lent curries, and this form of serving vegetables 
 makes a pleasant variation, besides being a very 
 savoury one. The addition of a little dessicated 
 cocoanut (purchasable from any grocer in tins) 
 gives a delicacy to the flavour. 
 
 Potatoes, celery, onions, turnips, parsnips, 
 artichokes, haricots, broad beans, vegetable 
 marrows, and cucumbers. 
 
 For a brown curry proceed as follows :— 
 
 Have ready some hot fat, enough to fry the 
 vegetables with ease. 
 
 Have the latter cut in slices or small even- 
 sized pieces; fry them until brown and tender 
 through ; sprinkle them all over with a little 
 curry powder, and- add sufficient salt. If you 
 have no brown thickening ready made, dredge 
 the vegetables with a little baked flour before 
 they leave the frying-pan; then pour in a good 
 cupful of clear stock, a spoonful of ‘‘ Nabob ” 
 or other sharp sauce and ketchup, a pinch of 
 cocoanut, and half the juice of a lemon. ; 
 
 Let all simmer together for several minutes, 
 then. serve in the same way as a meat curry. 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE DISHES. 43 
 
 For a white curry, cook the vegetables in 
 water previous to cutting them up. Make a 
 small quantity of rich white sauce. 
 
 Dissolve a little butter in a stewpan; put the 
 vegetables in to become well heated through, 
 but not to brown; pepper them with curry 
 powder; stir in the sauce, then just before 
 serving add a little cream. 
 
 Vegetable Pies. 
 
 As in curries, a combination of different vege- 
 tables produces a better result than any one 
 kind used singly; also the seasoning. must not 
 be given too sparingly. 
 
 Most vegetables for pies should be at least 
 partly cooked beforehand, and onions are more 
 rich in flavour if previously fried. A sprinkling 
 of tapioca, sago, etc., gives smoothness and 
 “ body ” to the pie. 
 
 Seasonings should consist of pepper, salt, fine 
 herbs (dried or fresh), cayenne, mace, allspice, 
 and sometimes grated cheese. 
 
 As arule the vegetables should be placed in 
 separate layers, the seasoning between, and the 
 dish filled up with water, stock, or milk, accord- 
 ing to discretion; then simmered a little while 
 
44 VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE Vise 
 
 before putting on the crust. Make and orna- 
 ment the crust as if for a meat pie. 
 
 The following combinations go excellently 
 well together. 
 
 Alternate layers of cooked macaroni, frizzled 
 onions, green peas, and tomatoes (the latter 
 uncooked) ; season with pepper, salt, mint and 
 lemon juice. 
 
 Alternate layers of cooked haricot beans and 
 mushrooms, with a few bits of butter and some 
 chopped parsley ; pepper and salt for seasoning. 
 
 Alternate layers of potatoes, onions, and 
 apples (all uncooked) ; season with pepper, salt, 
 and mace. 
 
 Tomatoes, cooked macaroni, onions, apples, 
 and grated cheese. 
 
 Potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, fresh herbs, spring 
 onions, and parsley. 
 
 Cooked broad beans, frizzled onion, parsley, 
 seasoning, and tapioca, filled up with milk. 
 
 Cooked celery, turnips, and boiled rice. The 
 water in which the celery was cooked is thick- 
 ened, and a little cream added to it, plenty of 
 pepper and salt, a little grated cheese, if liked, 
 and the dish filled up with this, 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Salads, 
 
 HE subject of salads reminds one of Syd- 
 ney Smith’s truly Epicurean recipe for a 
 salad dressing, which he concludes by saying— 
 
 “"T would tempt the dying anchorite to eat. 
 Back to the world he’d turn his weary soul, 
 And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.” 
 
 This well-known recipe of his is, however, 
 quite beyond the reach of an ordinary family 
 salad maker, though well deserving of attention 
 when a festival calls for extra care in regard to 
 this portion of the repast. 
 
 There are but few days in the year when the 
 salad bowl is absent from the table of the bon 
 bourgeois. He follows the order which kindly 
 nature has provided for him with faithfulness 
 through the succeeding seasons. 
 
 Spring and summer bring the true “salad 
 
 days ”’ of his existence, wherein he may revel in 
 45 
 
46 SALADS. 
 
 — 
 
 the variety open to his choice, and unless the 
 frost be too unkind, he will manage to preserve 
 his curly endives till the dainty coquille 
 has appeared above ground; then watercress 
 speedily comes to ring the changes with dande- 
 lion and chicory. 
 
 Indeed, there are few things in the vegetable 
 kingdom which do not lend themselves to his 
 skilful dressing ; even cold meat, fish and game 
 he will treat in this manner with much effect. 
 
 In warm weather, cold meat sent to table in 
 this way, or served with the salad as an accom- 
 paniment, is often far more acceptable than a 
 hot joint. | 
 
 An old Spanish proverb says it takes four 
 persons to make a successful salad: a spend- 
 thrift to throw in the oil, a miser to drop in the 
 vinegar, a lawyer to administer the seasoning, 
 and a madman to stir the whole together. 
 
 Though comparatively a simple thing to pre- 
 pare, it is very easily spoiled if regard be not 
 paid to one or two golden rules. The main 
 thing to observe in lettuce and vegetable salads 
 is that they should be as dry as possible, and 
 the dressing be added at the last moment only. 
 
 It is better not to wash lettuces, but to wipe 
 
 them with a clean towel, then shred them into 
 
SALADS. 47 
 
 the bowl. If muddy or gritty, or a trifle stale, 
 let them he in cold water awhile, then shake 
 vigorously in one of the open wire baskets sold 
 for the purpose. 
 
 Vegetables, such as beans, haricots, peas, etc., 
 and kidney beans, should, after boiling, be quite 
 cold and thoroughly well drained before using ; 
 plenty of chopped parsley, and a suspicion of 
 onion added to them when placed in the bowl. 
 
 Amongst the vegetables appropriate for 
 salads in addition to the first-mentioned, are 
 asparagus, artichokes, boiled beetroot, celery, 
 cucumber, tomatoes, cauliflowers, dandelions, 
 French, beans, lentils, broad beans, radishes, 
 salsifies, chicory, and watercress, mustard and 
 cress, chives, and a variety of herbs, which, 
 served with the others, give piquancy to the 
 flavour, and aid digestion. 
 
 A few shreds of onion should never be for- 
 gotten, though French people prefer to use a 
 clove of garlic, and rub the inside of the bowl 
 with it. 
 
 _A-salad well prepared and garnished is a most 
 charming compound. Tor the garnishing, only 
 such things as can be eaten with the mixture 
 should be used, such as bright radishes, sliced 
 beetroot and cucumber, hard-boiled eggs; nas- 
 
48 SALADS. 
 
 turtium leaves and flowers and marigclds may 
 also be used. Both the latter flowers are edible, 
 and have a pleasant flavour. 
 
 Of meat salads, chicken salad, or mayonnaise, 
 is the most commonly known, but most poultry 
 and game may be treated in this way. 
 
 A very appetising way of treating the remains 
 of cold beef is to cut it into dice, excluding all 
 fat and gristle (a very small piece of meat is 
 needed), then to add a good tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley and chives, and dress as a 
 salad with mustard and oil and ees this 
 goes by the name of a “ persillade.” 
 
 Fish, too, such as cold salmon or turbot, hali- 
 but aed cod, with lobster, either by itself or as 
 a garniture to the first-named, all four being 
 treated in this manner; eggs should always be 
 included in the dressing. The coral of a lobster 
 is most valuable as a decoration. 
 
 Lettuce and watercress salads are invariably 
 served with omelettes and most other dishes — 
 made with eggs; and with hot meat and gravy 
 they are a delicious accompaniment, many 
 people, particularly gentlemen, preferring them 
 thus instead of to cold meat. 
 
 Joan Cromwell’s grand salad was composed © 
 of equal parts of almonds, raisins, capers, 
 
SM EADS. 49 
 
 pickled cucumbers, shrimps, and boiled tur- 
 nips ! 
 
 Although a salad should not be dressed until 
 the moment itis required to be eaten, the dress- 
 ing may be prepared some hours before it 1s 
 needed for use, and, where time is precious, and 
 salads are frequently required, sufficient for two 
 or three days’ supply may be prepared at once, 
 and bottled up ready for use. 
 
 If you would succeed and have a truly deli- 
 cious salad, make your own dressing; let no 
 hands but your own have anything to do with 
 compounding it. Above all, eschew the com- 
 pounds sold at the grocers under the name of 
 “creams ” or “‘ salad dressing.” 
 
 A foolish prejudice exists among many people 
 against salad oil, but when once they have over- 
 come the dislike, they generally end by becom- 
 ing very partial to it ; its judicious use is of 
 great benefit, as it tends to prevent the fermen- 
 tation caused in the stomach by the presence of 
 a raw vegetable, and is a corrective to flatu- 
 lence. 3 
 
 It can often be taken in salads by invalids for 
 whom cod-liver oil has been prescribed, which 
 is so disagreeable and difficult to take, and is 
 found to be very nearly as nourishing. 
 
 P.C. E 
 
so SALADS. 
 
 There are different oils procurable to suit all 
 tastes, but the purest olive oil is always pre- 
 ferred by both French and Swiss people, and is 
 bought by them in large flagons, straight from 
 the growers. 
 
 The principles of salad-making having been 
 broadly given in the foregoing remarks, recipes 
 for a few choice salads are here appended. 
 
 Capsicum Salad. 
 
 An excellent digestive. 
 
 The capsicums should be rather unripe, 
 although for appearance sake they should be 
 red in colour. 
 
 Split them, remove the seeds, let them he in 
 cold water for some hours, to reduce their 
 pungency. | 
 
 With the fingers pull them to small pieces, 
 and shred some crisp. lettuce also. Chop a 
 small onion finely, and slice up two or three 
 tomatoes. 
 
 Mix all together in the salad bowl; sprinkle 
 with salt, then pour several spoonfuls of oil and 
 one of vinegar over all, and mix the whole very 
 thoroughly together. 
 
SALADS. 51 
 
 Cucumber Salad. 
 
 There will be none of the usual grumbling 
 as to the indigestibility of cucumbers if the 
 following directions are minutely followed :— 
 
 Lirstly, slice the cucumbers as thinly as a sheet 
 of notepaper, leaving the rind on if the taste of 
 it be not dishked; place the slices on a plate, 
 also some finely shred onions, half as many as 
 the cucumber ; cover with a sprinkling of salt, 
 then with another plate, and let these stand for 
 half an hour to “cry.” Then drain the “ tears” 
 away, and put cucumbers and onions into the 
 salad bowl. Dredge with pepper and a little 
 castor sugar, then pour over the usual propor- 
 tion of oil and vinegar, and serve at once. 
 
 When this salad is to accompany fish, leave 
 out the onion, and substitute a few sprigs of 
 watercress. 
 
 Carrot Salad. 
 
 An accompaniment to cold salt beef. 
 
 Slice thinly some carrots which have been 
 boiled whole and allowed to become cold. Lay 
 the slices separately on a flat dish and season 
 them with pepper, salt, and a drop of oil on 
 each ; squeeze some lemon juice over them. 
 
 Shred finely some lettuce, and mix some 
 
52 SALADS. 
 
 chopped chives or shallots with it, and nearly 
 fill the bowl with this. Dredge with the usual 
 dressing, and mix lightly. Carefully lft the 
 shces of carrot and lay them over the green; 
 decorate with tufts of scraped horse-radish and 
 sprigs of watercress. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 The white stalks of celery should be shred 
 downwards, then cut into inch lengths, and 
 piled in the centre of a shallow glass dish. 
 
 Pour over these a cream salad dressing, and 
 place a tuft of the green leaves on the top. 
 Make a border round the base of pickled red 
 cabbage, a few strips of hard-boiled egg, and 
 an outer edge of celery leaves. 
 
 Apple Salad. 
 
 A tasty accompaniment to cold roast pork, 
 goose or raised pie. 
 
 Keswicks are the best for this purpose, on 
 account of their sharp juiciness and fine green 
 skins. Core the apples, but leave the skins on. 
 Slice them on to a shallow dish, dust them with 
 cayenne pepper, and sprinkle among them a few 
 finely minced shallots. Place a few split capsi- 
 cums and tiny pickled gherkins about the edge, 
 
SALADS. 5 
 
 Oo 
 
 strain a little Jemon juice, and mix it with an 
 equal quantity of salad oil, and a pinch each 
 of salt and powdered sugar. Pour over the 
 apples, and serve before they have time to 
 change colour. 
 
 Bean Salad. (Salade de Haricots Verts.) 
 
 French beans are by far the best for making 
 this, although kidney beans are not at all bad if 
 treated in the same way. 
 
 When the former are used, strip the strings 
 off and simply break the beans in inch lengths ; 
 do not cut them. Boil them until tender ; drain 
 thoroughly, and leave until quite cold. Put 
 them in a bowl, sprinkle with about two table- 
 spoonfuls of finely chopped parsley and any fresh 
 herbs obtainable, then with salt and pepper, 
 and dress with vinegar and oil. Serve im- 
 mediately; 
 
 Fennel Salad. 
 
 For accompanying white fish, turbot, cod, 
 halibut or hake. 
 
 Use only the tender sprouts of the fennel, 
 and shred them finely ; intersperse these with 
 shred leaves of tender cabbage lettuce. 
 
 Pile up inthe bowl, and garnish with chopped 
 
54 SALADS. 
 
 hard-boiled egg, shreds of fresh lemon, and 
 chopped pickled walnut. Dress as preferred. 
 
 Haricot Bean Mayonnaise. 
 
 The white haricot beans should have been 
 soaked previous to cooking them, to ensure their 
 being thoroughly mealy afterwards. 
 
 When well drained, mix with them a little 
 mustard and cress, and the faintest suspicion of 
 raw onion. 
 
 Pour over all a good mayonnaise or cream 
 dressing. 
 
 Very nice for luncheon with brown bread and 
 butter. 
 
 Mushroom Salad. 
 
 Small or “button” mushrooms should be 
 used for this. 
 
 Remove the outer skins and most of the stalk, 
 drop them into boiling salted water, and boil 
 gently for two or three minutes. Remove them 
 on toacloth. When quite cold, sprinkle them 
 with mixed pepper and salt, and chopped pars- 
 ley. Pile in the salad bowl, and dredge lber- 
 ally with oil and spiced vinegar. 
 
SALADS. 55 
 
 Potato Salad. 
 
 Slice some cold boiled potatoes very evenly, 
 sprinkle them all over with finely minced pars- 
 ley and shallots, and strew a little thinly sliced 
 lemon amongst them. Mix a teaspoonful of 
 grated horse-radish with an egg salad dressing, 
 and pour it over. Decorate with sliced beet- 
 root, pickled walnuts, and sprigs of watercress. 
 
 Sardine Salad. 
 
 Shred finely some crisp curly endive, dredge 
 it with pepper and salt, some lemon juice, and 
 the oil of the sardines. Mix very thoroughly, 
 then pile in the centre of a round glass dish. 
 Border with thin circles of hard-boiled eggs. 
 Take several unbroken sardines; spht them 
 open to remove the bone, and sprinkle them 
 with fresh lemon peel and cayenne pepper; 
 close them up, then sharply cut each sardine 
 into three pieces. lay these fillets over the 
 top of the prepared endive, and serve. 
 
 A sausage salad might be made in similar 
 fashion, using slices of Lyons or Bologna sausage 
 cut in fancy shapes. The dressing should have 
 mustard and the yolk of egg added to the other 
 ingredients. 
 
56 SALADS. 
 
 Game Salads. 
 
 Almost any kind of cold game may be dressed 
 as a salad, and the following general directions 
 will do for all :— 
 
 The meat must be very thinly sliced—shaved, 
 in fact—in neat pieces. Lettuces, mustard and 
 cress, and any salad herbs obtainable should be 
 arranged in the bowl in alternate layers with 
 the game. Dress with a. mixture of chutney 
 and oil, with a little spiced vinegar, and decor- 
 ate the surface with chopped jelly. 
 
 Ham Salad. 
 
 Cold boiled or baked smoked ham is the best, 
 although unsmoked may be used. 
 
 Mix together and put into a fine dredger a 
 small quantity each of celery salt, cayenne and 
 _ black pepper, white sugar and allspice. 
 
 Shave the lean of the ham, and squeeze lemon 
 juice over the pieces, then hghtly dredge them 
 with the above mixture. 
 
 Shave up some white onions and celery, 
 and put them in the salad bowl with a few 
 white lettuce hearts. Add the ham next, then 
 pour several spoonfuls of oil over all and a dash 
 of vinegar. Serve quickly. 
 
ABAD S. 57 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Mix a well varied green salad, and add the 
 flakes taken from the larger part of the lobster ; 
 make a pyramid of this. 
 
 Dress with a rich cream dressing, containing 
 a spoonful of anchovy sauce; then decorate in 
 the following order, commencing from the base: 
 beetroot, sliced cucumber, eggs sliced, prawns, 
 eggs, and lobster coral at the top. 
 
 As before advised, make your own “salad 
 dressing,” whether it be simple or compound. 
 
 The many mixtures which come under this 
 heading are after all compounded of a few 
 things, a greater or smaller proportion of each 
 being employed, according as fancy or fashion 
 dictates. 
 
 The following are the components of all salad 
 dressings,—the first five being the most com- 
 monly used :— 
 
 Ground pepper, black or white. 
 
 Salt and celery salt. 
 
 Mustard. 
 
 Salad or olive oil. 
 
 Vinegar, plain, spiced, or flavoured. 
 
 Yolk of egg, raw or pounded. 
 
 Mashed potato. , 
 
58 SALADS. 
 
 Lemon juice. 
 
 Sauces : tomato, anchovy, Worcester, ete. 
 Curry powder. 
 
 Powdered sugar. 
 
 Horse-radish. 
 
 Cream and milk. 
 
 Rules for Mixing the Dressings. 
 
 Add all liquids slowly. - 
 
 Put in the vinegar at the last. 
 
 Mix very thoroughly, and if intended for 
 future use, keep in air-tight bottles, in a cool 
 dark place. 
 
 Shake well before using. 
 
CHAPTER V, 
 
 Sauces, 
 
 GENERAL knowledge of sauces is a part 
 
 of every intelligent housekeeper’s culinary 
 education, ‘They are no longer the appendages 
 of the rich man’s table only, for by their aid the 
 homeliest dish may become “fit to set before a 
 king,’ although the actual cost is within the 
 compass of the peasant’s purse. 
 
 The great chef Soyer used to say that sauces 
 are to cookery what grammar is to language, or 
 the gamut is to music. However this may be, 
 the skill of a cook is shown in nothing more 
 assuredly than in the way she manufactures a 
 sauce. 
 
 Sauce certainly ought to serve either as a 
 relish or a finish to the dish it accompanies. 
 The most homely fare may be made relishing, 
 
 as the most excellent may be improved, by a 
 59 
 
60 SAUCES: 
 
 well-made sauce, just as the most perfect oil- 
 painting is improved by varnishing. 
 
 Sauces should display a decided character. 
 Many cooks make a grand mistake on this point ; 
 they think they cannot make a sauce sufficiently 
 savoury without putting into it everything that 
 happens to be available, supposing every addi- 
 tion must be an improvement. 
 
 Spices, herbs, etc., are often absurdly jumbled 
 together. Why have cloves and allspice, mace, 
 and nutmeg in the same sauce, or onions, garlic, 
 and shallots all together? Any one of these is 
 sufficient by itself. 
 
 You might as well, to make soup, order one 
 quart of water from the New River, one from 
 the Thames, a third from Hampstead, and a 
 fourth from Chelsea. 
 
 An ingenious cook will form as endless a 
 variety of compositions as a musician with his 
 seven notes, or a painter with his pigments; no 
 part of her business offers a more frequent 
 opportunity for the display of her imagination ; 
 but to become a perfect mistress in the art of 
 cleverly extracting flavours, besides the gift of 
 good taste, requires all the experience and skill 
 of the accomplished professor. 
 
 Hot sauces should be sent to table as hot as 
 
SAUCES. 61 
 
 possible ; and when wine or thickening has been 
 added, they should be allowed to boil up again, 
 so that the flavours may be well blended. 
 
 In compound sauces the flavouring should be 
 so nicely proportioned that no one should pre- 
 dominate over the other, but that the mixture 
 give out a mellow flavour which cannot but be 
 acceptable to the most critical gourmand. 
 
 Although classed among the elegancies of 
 cookery, they are not necessarily extravagant, 
 or they would never form so important a part 
 of the menu of our bonne bourgeoise. 
 
 With her, even the juice that runs from the 
 meat is “‘ sauce,” for it is seldom or never served 
 on the meat dish, as it is in England. That she 
 would consider wasteful, but carefully pouring 
 off every drop, by a few skilful additions it is 
 “lengthened,” and then served in a sauciére. 
 
 Stock forms the foundation of nearly all meat 
 sauces, as if is easily adapted to whatever colour 
 is desired. 
 
 If clear, bright sauce, which is also to be 
 thick, is required, the stock should be thickened 
 with potato flour, as that is transparent, and 
 wine—either golden sherry or port—is usually 
 added. 
 
 For a thick sauce not necessarily clear, there 
 
62 SAUGES: 
 
 are many ways of thickening; brown roux, 
 which a good cook will make for herself, and 
 keep by her, is most preferable. 
 
 Vegetable juice is the most wholesome colour- 
 ing matter; spinach juice as a green when 
 available, or a good substitute is to be found in 
 crushed parsley. 
 
 A most delicious sauce is made from fresh 
 tomatoes, for serving hot with boiled beef or 
 veal; and when fresh ones are not to be had, 
 the tinned or preserved ones will do for the 
 purpose. 
 
 They should be frizzled in butter, seasoned, 
 then just covered with good bouillon, a few 
 tiny shallots and a little fragrant ‘* bouquet ” 
 added to them, and allowed to simmer for 
 an hour, after which it is passed through a 
 strainer. 
 
 Slices of cold beef or veal laid in this sauce, 
 and allowed to get thoroughly hot through, 
 with a few bits of lean ham or bacon, then 
 dished with finely chopped parsley sifted over 
 all, makes a very capital way of finishing up a — 
 joint. 
 
 A thin clear “ sauce piquante”’ is “ sauce a la 
 Diable,” into the composition of which enter 
 shallots and several herbs finely mixed, made 
 
SAUCES. 63 
 mustard, horse-radish grated, salt and pepper, 
 vinegar and oil or butter, well stewed together, 
 and a little stock, brown thickening and wine 
 added. 
 
 In all brown sauces, the principal ingredients 
 will be found to be, roughly stated, shallots, 
 carrots, mushrooms, yolks of eggs, herbs, pars- 
 ley, garlic, cloves, pepper, mustard, vinegar and 
 oil; sometimes white or red wine, with thicken- 
 ing material as required. 
 
 When making sauces for game and poultry, 
 the goodness should be thoroughly extracted 
 from the giblets and all available bones, by 
 crushing and thoroughly stewing. The pinch 
 of salt must not be omitted in any sauce. 
 
 White sauces form quite a catalogue by them- 
 selves, from the simple white sauce made from 
 thickened milk to the somewhat elaborate 
 ‘“‘béchamel sauce.” 
 
 For a good white sauce—which is also the 
 foundation of the richer kinds of the same—use 
 a tablespoonful of flour mixed with a little 
 water, and an ounce of butter and milk or 
 cream to the amount required. When this is 
 boiled, it can receive whatever addition is to 
 give it character to suit the dish it accompanies 
 —capers, parsley, anchovies, oysters, shrimps, 
 
64 ed FC Lome 
 
 spices, lemons; in fact, it can be varied ad 
 libitum. 
 
 Where many sauces are required, it is a great 
 economy of time and material to have a supply 
 of both brown and white rouw at hand. Hastily 
 made rouw is impossible ; and no mixture of flour 
 and butter or other thickening agent can fill 
 its place—certainly not in taste, and really not 
 in appearance. 
 
 Equal quantities of pure butter and baked 
 flour, stirred briskly and steadily over the fire 
 for a longer or shorter time, is the one and only 
 way of making roux; the difference in colour 
 depends entirely on the time expended upon the 
 task. 
 
 Sauce dite Beurre Noir. 
 
 Melt a fairly large lump of butter in a sauce- 
 pan, and keep it briskly stirred while it changes 
 colour ; let it become quite brown, but not burnt. 
 Throw in a handful of lightly chopped parsley, 
 a pinch of pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 Black butter sauce is frequently served with 
 fish, 
 
SAUCES. 65 
 
 Sauce Piquante. 
 
 Chop a shallot finely, and frizzle it in a little 
 butter; add a tablespoonful of brown rouw, a 
 teaspoonful of made mustard, same of mixed 
 salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
 and half a pint of warm water. Boil together, 
 then strain through a sieve, and lastly throw in 
 a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins. 
 
 Sauce Robert. 
 
 A spoonful of brown rouz, half a pint of clear 
 stock, plenty of seasoning, and a teaspoonful of 
 mustard added last of all. 
 
 Frequently served with cutlets and steaks, 
 notably with pork. 
 
 There are two distinct kinds of white sauce— 
 viz., Sauce blanche Parisienne and Sauce blanche 
 Normande. 
 
 Parisienne. 
 
 Dissolve in a saucepan a small lump of butter, 
 and work into it as much baked flour or potato 
 flour as it will absorb; when smooth, add a few 
 spoonfuls of water to it. When this boils, add 
 to it a fresh quantity of butter cut in small 
 pieces—enough to make the required quantity 
 of sauce. Stir steadily until all is completely 
 
 jane i 
 
66 Dal CLO. 
 
 dissolved, but do not let it boil again. The 
 juice of half or a whole lemon is added at the 
 last. 
 
 Normande. 
 
 Moisten a spoonful of fécule or flour with suf- 
 ficient water, add to it a small lump of butter, 
 and milk, to make the requisite quantity; stir 
 over the fire until it boils freely, then season and 
 add lemon juice. 
 
 White roux, to which is added milk, or milk 
 and water, makes this sauce to perfection. 
 
 A little thick cream added at the last greatly 
 improves white sauce. 
 
 Sauce Poulette. 
 
 Make a white sauce according to either of the 
 above; allowan onion anda few herbs to simmer 
 in it for a while, then strain, and stir in the 
 beaten yolk of an egg. 
 
 Sauce Soubése. 
 
 Chop up finely a dozen or more shallots, 
 frizzle them slowly in a little butter, dredge a 
 little flour over them, then stir in a tumblerful of 
 he water; let simmer for a little time. The 
 sauce may then be strained, or not, as desired, 
 
eh haf ey yey 67 
 
 but it should receive the addition of salt, pepper, 
 and a spoonful or two of cream. 
 Served with mutton. 
 
 Sauce Ravigote. 
 
 Hot.—Put into a saucepan a teacupful of water 
 or clear stock, add to it a spoonful each of 
 minced chives, shallots, chervil, tarragon, mustard 
 and cress, pepper and salt, and one of vinegar. 
 Boil these together for five minutes, then stir in 
 a small lump of butter, and a teaspoonful of 
 potato flour wetted with water to thicken it. 
 
 Cold.—Take the same herbs, after mincing 
 them, and pound them in a mortar; add to them 
 the raw yolk of an egg. Mix well together, 
 and add, drop by drop, three spoonfuls of salad 
 oil. A spoonful of vinegar and one of made 
 mustard are stirred in last of all. 
 
 Sauce Tartare. 
 
 Mix together the yolks of three eggs, a spoon- 
 ful of mustard and one of vinegar, then add 
 slowly three spoonfuls of salad oil. Stir care- 
 fully over the fire until thoroughly hot, but it 
 must not reach boiling-point. Orit may be ured 
 cold. 
 
68 SAUCES. 
 
 Sauce Bordelaise. 
 
 Melt a small piece of butter, and frizzle in 
 that two sliced shallots; when done, either stir 
 in a tablespoonful of brown roux or sufficient 
 potato flour to absorb the butter. Add a tea- 
 cupful of clear stock, a wineglassful of claret, 
 two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a pinch of 
 salt, same of pepper, and boil together; stir a 
 pinch of mixed herbs in at the last. Much liked 
 with beefsteaks and cutlets. 
 
 Béchamel Sauce. 
 
 Some clear but highly flavoured stock is re- 
 quired for the foundation of this. Simmer in 
 this a small onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 carrot cut in rounds, and a clove. When re- 
 quired for use, strain through a muslin, thicken 
 with one or two spoonfuls of white rowa, let it 
 boil up once, season well, and stir in lastly three 
 tablespoonfuls of hot cream. 
 
 Sauce au Jambon. 
 
 Chop finely a few ounces of lean ham ; frizzle 
 it in a stewpan with a bit of butter. When 
 cooked, stir in a sufficiency of potato flour to 
 absorb the butter, and clear stock or warm 
 
SAUCES. 69 
 
 water to reduce it to the consistency of cream. 
 Put in a small bunch of herbs, and some pepper. 
 Let all simmer for upwards of an hour, then 
 strain through a tamis. 
 
 Iixcellent for serving with poached eggs, 
 cooked celery, salsifies, etc. 
 
 Sauce Financiere. 
 
 Put in a saucepan half a pint of good clear 
 stock, a few fowl or game giblets; cut small 
 pieces of cooked liver and ham, a dozen small 
 mushrooms, a dozen shallots, two or three 
 olives, stoned and cut small (or tomatoes may be 
 used instead), a glass of white wine, a spoonful 
 of scraped horse-radish, pepper and salt. Let 
 all these simmer together for a couple of hours, 
 then thicken the sauce with brown “roux” or 
 butter and flour rolled together, add any gravy 
 available and a small spoonful of curry powder. 
 Boil it once more and serve. 
 
 Salmis, 
 
 For the remains of poultry or game. 
 
 Dissolve a lump of butter the size of an egg, 
 stir into it a large tablespoonful of “ fécule”’ or 
 potato flour, stir together until brown; add a 
 cupful of stock and one of red wine, salt, pepper 
 
70 SAUCES. 
 
 and spices. Mix together well, and when it has 
 boiled a few minutes draw the sauce away from 
 the fire, and put in the joints and pieces to be 
 gently simmered therein. 
 
 A Richer Salmis. 
 
 Crush the bones, necks, giblets, etc., of the 
 birds which you have been jointing; put all to- 
 gether into a stewpan with red wine and stock 
 enough to cover them, two or three onions, a 
 carrot, pepper, spice and cloves. Stew them 
 together a long time, then strain through a hair 
 sieve. ‘Thicken this sauce until it becomes the 
 consistency of cream, add salt, and taste if it be 
 rightly seasoned. Warm up the jointed birds in 
 the sauce, pour on to a dish, and garnish with 
 potato rissoles or fried croutons. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
 Mayonnaise Blanche. 
 
 The chief ingredient of this sauce is a small 
 quantity of clear, savoury jelly. The jelly 
 should be gradually melted by warmth, but must 
 not become warm itself. When sufficiently dis- 
 solved to allow of its whisking easily, set the 
 basin containing it on the ice if possible, if not, 
 in a very cold place. Add an equal quantity of 
 
« SAUCES. 71 
 
 good salad oil to it, a spoonful or two of good 
 flavoured vinegar, and a little salt and pepper 
 mixed ; then proceed to whisk the whole to a 
 white creamy froth. The oil and vinegar are 
 better if added by degrees. Keep the mayon- 
 naise very cold. | 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce. 
 
 This sauce is a mixture of yolks of eggs, oil, 
 and vinegar or lemon-juice. 
 
 Care is required in the mixing thereof; the oil 
 should be added to the beaten eggs by drops, 
 and the acid put in in the same way the last of 
 all. 
 
 The proportion usually observed is that of a 
 tablespoonful of oil to every egg-yolk, and a 
 few drops of vinegar. If found too thick when 
 finished, use a little cold water to bring it to the 
 requisite consistency. Use a wooden or silver 
 spoon in mixing a mayonnaise. 
 
 Green Mayonnaise Sauce 
 
 is made by adding a small quantity of finely 
 minced herbs—chervil, cress, parsley, etc.— 
 to plain mayonnaise. 
 
72 SA UGES, 
 
 Horse-radish Sauce. 
 
 Pare off the outer skin, then scrape or grate 
 an ounce of horse-radish; slightly thicken a 
 cupful of cream or cream and milk, put the 
 horse-radish into it with half a teaspoonful of 
 salt and a lump of sugar; make the sauce very 
 hot, and just before bringing to table stir in a 
 spoonful of vinegar or lemon juice. 
 
 Horse-radish Sauce, 
 
 For cold meat. 
 
 Scrape the root very finely; to two table- 
 spoonfuls of it add half a teaspoonful of salt and 
 a whole one of made mustard. Stir these into 
 a ready mixed yolk of egg and oil, and add 
 lastly a spoonful of vinegar. Serve ina sauce 
 boat. Cream may be substituted for the egg 
 and oil if preferred. 
 
 Sauce Parisienne, 
 
 For sweet puddings. 
 
 Mix a wineglassful of rum or sweet wine with 
 the beaten yolks of three eggs and a tablespoon- 
 ful of sugar ; stir over the fire until the mixture 
 begins to thicken, draw it aside and add to it 
 three tablespoonfuls of cream. Keep warm, but 
 do not let it boil. 
 
SAUCES. 73 
 
 Sauce Napolitaine, 
 
 For Neapolitan and custard puddings. 
 
 Dissolve four ounces of currant jelly in a 
 saucepan with four lumps of sugar, add to this 
 a wineglassful of claret or port wine. Make 
 hot, but do not let it boil. 
 
 Sauce aux Citrons. 
 
 Peel two lemons and squeeze the juice from 
 them. Place the rind with half a pint of water 
 and four ounces of lump sugar, to boil in a 
 saucepan. When the goodness has been ex- 
 tracted, remove the rind, stir in a teaspoonful 
 of corn flour previously wetted with cold 
 water, the lemon juice, and an ounce of butter; 
 boil up once and serve in a tureen. 
 
 Sauce au Confiture. 
 
 Mix smoothly together an ounce of dissolved 
 butter and the same quantity of flour; stir in 
 half a pint of warm water with a pinch of salt. 
 Boil this sauce well, then add to it three or 
 four spoonfuls of nice jam, free from stones. 
 
74 wAUCES., 
 
 Flavoured Vinegars. 
 
 One or two small bottlesful of vinegars of 
 different flavours will be found-most useful for 
 sauces and gravies. 
 
 Asarule, steep the herbs or roots in a 
 vinegar for about a fortnight, then strain the 
 latter, put if on in a pan to boil fora short 
 space, and when cold bottle for use. 
 
 Horse-radish, celery, chili, garlic, mushroom, 
 and walnut vinegars are made from roots; 
 tarragon, mint, sage, nasturtium, basil, etc., from 
 herbs. 
 
 Fruit vinegars for sweet sauces, such as rasp- 
 berry, blackberry, plum, etc., are made by 
 steeping the fruit in the vinegar until all the 
 colour and flavour of it has been drawn out, 
 then straining the vinegar into an enamelled 
 pan and boiling it with half its proportion of 
 sugar. Boil for ten minutes, and bottle up 
 well. 
 
 A. very small quantity of flavoured vinegar is 
 sufficient; it must not be used as freely as 
 plain vinegar. 
 
 y 4 % isis 
 4 ee Se Oe Pee eee, 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The “Daubiere” ov “Braistere.” 
 
 HERE is a kind of stew very popular in 
 
 France which is known as a “ daube.” 
 
 “ Boeuf a la daube” is a favourite dish, but veal, 
 
 mutton, and particularly poultry, all lend them- 
 selves admirably to being treated in this way. 
 
 One great advantage it has is that inferior 
 cuts of meat, or elderly (consequently tough) 
 denizens of the poultry yard, are quite as eli- 
 gible for use in this way as the finest and most 
 tender; if anything, they are, indeed, prefer- 
 able, as they are found to contain more flavour 
 if they can be made tender, and the object of 
 this process is to make them tender, in spite of 
 all resistance they may offer, 
 
 The daubicre is a close-covered stewing-pot 
 of glazed earthenware, with a deep rim round 
 the top for holding charcoal. It is put either 
 in a corner of the oven, or placed over the 
 grating on the charcoal stove, with more hot 
 
 73 
 
76 THE “DAUBIERE” OR “BRAISIERE.” 
 
 coals round the brim. The latter way is the 
 true method of braising. 
 
 For cooking a large piece of meat—a leg of 
 mutton, for instance, which can be left until 
 cold before it is cut—it is a mode of cooking 
 truly beyond compare. Most people remember 
 the old rhyme anent the turkey :— 
 
 66 Tm 
 
 Turkey boiled is turkey spoiled, 
 Turkey roast is turkey lost ; 
 But for turkey braised, the Lord be praised !” 
 
 Any one who has once tasted turkey done in 
 this way will well understand how it is so much 
 superior. 
 
 This mode of cooking has for its special 
 object to cause as little evaporation as possible, 
 and thus to retain all the natural juices and 
 flavour of the meat. What is not left in the 
 meat is fixed in the jelly produced. by it. : 
 
 Large pieces or joints of meat cooked in this 
 way are equally good eaten either hot or cold; 
 but, as before stated, inferior portions of meat, 
 if stewed in this vessel, may be rendered most 
 excellent and nutritious. 
 
 Let us first take ‘ Boouf 4 la daube.” The 
 portion of beef used for this is a slice—say, an 
 inch thick—from the shoulder of beef; either 
 above the blade or under it will do. 
 
THE “DAUBIERE” OR “BRAISIERE.” 77 
 
 Remove all bone and skin; if you get a@ pro- 
 per slice, there will be little of either. Take a 
 small portion of beef kidney, a slice of fat 
 bacon or salted pork, and a few large white 
 onions; cut the meat into small squares, the 
 bacon into strips, the kidney into small pieces, 
 and slice the onion finely. 
 
 Then in your daubiére arrange them in layers, 
 dredging a little flour over each layer of meat, 
 and taking care to have the fat bacon for the 
 final layer. A few peppercorns should be dis- 
 posed about, and a very little salt. Then, last 
 of all, a glass of red wine should be poured 
 over. Give it three or four hours to cook. It 
 is most excellent. 
 
 Veal done in this same manner should 
 be left whole, the kidney omitted; but the 
 meat should.be liberally larded through with 
 fat bacon, more placed round it, a clove or 
 two and peppercorns, but no onions. Sweet 
 herbs are an improvement, and white wine 
 instead of red. 
 
 Of course the wine may be omitted alto- 
 gether where great economy is to be observed ; 
 the daube will be less rich, but none the less 
 good without it. 
 
 Legs of mutton, shanks, thick portions of the 
 
"8 THE “DAUBIERE” OR “ BRAISIERE” 
 
 shoulder, etc., require no addition, save a few 
 sweet herbs and a little fat to give moisture. 
 The same parts of lamb may be cooked in this 
 way also, and the meat will be found to waste 
 less if so treated. 
 
 True ‘‘bcouf & la mode” is cooked in the 
 daubiére. When intended to be eaten hot, the 
 vegetables are served with the meat; but not 
 so intended, they should be lifted out, and the 
 fat over the gravy removed as far as possible, 
 leaving the meat in the vessel until quite cold. 
 
 It is sometimes well to place a weight over 
 the meat before replacing the lid; it will slice 
 more evenly if this precaution be observed. 
 
 A piece of the leg of beef or the “ round” 
 cooked in this manner, and left till cold, makes 
 a capital luncheon dish; it will absorb the 
 flavour of vegetables, bacon, fat, etc., quite 
 readily. ‘ 
 
 For cooking turkeys, geese or poultry, “en 
 daube,” the same general directions will suffice. 
 
 Choose an old bird by preference; pluck and 
 empty it, saving the heart, liver, and gizzard, 
 also the neck; scald these well. Singe the 
 bird, and scald the inside, then truss as 1f for 
 roasting. 
 
 Place some fat bacon or salt pork at the bot- 
 
THE “DAUBIERE” OR “BRAISIERE.” 79 
 
 tom of the daubiére, your bird upon that, and 
 pack round it the giblets, a calf’s foot split and 
 quartered, two or three carrots split and quar- 
 tered, an onion, some bay-leaves, thyme, and , 
 parsley. Add peppercorns and a little salt, a 
 cupful of good stock, and a glass of wine if 
 liked; then cover up tightly, and cook gently 
 for five or six hours. 
 
 If intended to be eaten cold, the bird should 
 be lifted out, the liquor strained off into a 
 saucepan, and allowed to boil gently until re- 
 duced to one-third; then all fat must be re- 
 moved, and a white of ege added to clarify it. 
 
 When nearly cold, the bird may be carefully 
 coated all over with this glaze. Garnished 
 with curled parsley, it is a handsome dish, and 
 no fear need be felt as to whether it will prove 
 tender or no. 
 
 The giblets and vegetables would be served 
 with the bird if eaten hot; in any case, they 
 make an appetising little dish by themselves 
 with a little of the gravy. 
 
 A ham may be successfully braised in this 
 vessel, and thus cooked it will be found to 
 retain far more flavour than if it were boiled. 
 
 It goes without saying that it requires 
 nothing with it save a little water. The juice 
 
80 THE “DAUBIERE® OR “ BRAISIERE.” 
 
 which runs from it, with the addition of a little 
 gelatine and white of egg, will make the glaze 
 for ornamenting it. 
 
 In the South it is customary, after the meat 
 is cooked, to lift it out on to the dish, and then 
 to put in whatever vegetables are intended to 
 be eaten with it; say, for example, a leg of 
 mutton has been cooked in the daubiére, and it 
 is intended to have a dish of haricots or flageo- 
 lets to accompany it; these last will have been 
 boiled until tender, then dropped into the dau- 
 biére to finish cooking in the “ jus.” 
 
 The potatoes also would take their turn in 
 like manner, the result being that they will 
 all receive the flavour of the gravy, and “ har- 
 monise’”’ with the principal. Plain boiled 
 vegetables are regarded as incomplete. 
 
 Before closing this chapter, I would mention 
 the class of meat dishes known as the “ galan- 
 tines.” : 
 
 Although not cooked in precisely the same 
 way, not necessarily in the daubiére at all, still 
 the principle is the same. They may be made 
 of either cooked or uncooked meat. 
 
 When TroEe meat is used, the portion is often 
 
 “ piqué,”’ or larded with something which con- 
 trasts in colour, the white meat of veal has a 
 
et on ele eel — 
 
 THE “ DAUBIERE” OR “ BRAISIERE? 81 
 
 truffle or two inserted, and red meats will have 
 the contrast of a green nasturtium seed, etc. 
 
 I will describe the preparation of a “ galan- 
 tine de volaille?’ when made of cooked meat. 
 
 All the flesh parts of a fowl, previously 
 boiled, should be sliced very thinly, a small 
 quantity of ham and tongue also, a little sau- 
 sage-meat mixed with chopped parsley, herbs 
 and bread crumbs, and made up into Ihittle 
 balls, two eggs hard boiled, also sliced, and a 
 little red beetroot cut into strips. 
 
 Take a fluted mould, arrange these ingredi- 
 ents in order, haying regard to the appearance 
 when turned out, then take a cupful of clear 
 stock, season it well, add a little gelatine (pre- 
 viously dissolved), colour it a light brown, and 
 pour overall. Place the mould in a corner of 
 the oven to cook gently for an hour, then 
 weight it well, and stand aside till quite cold. 
 
 A galantine made of fresh meat would, of 
 course, take longer to cook, but it would also 
 require pressing with a weight, as these dishes 
 - are intended to be sliced very delicately. 
 
 As luncheon, supper, or “reserve” dishes 
 they will be found exceedingly useful, looking 
 as well as tasting very good. 
 
 P.O, G 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 Frving and “Saute”eing. 
 
 RYING plays an important part in French 
 
 cookery, but it is a very different method 
 
 to that which is pursued by most English cooks. 
 
 The English way more nearly resembles what 
 
 a Frenchwoman would call “to sauté,” that is, 
 
 to toss up, turning first to one side, then to the 
 
 other, in only a little fat, while the vessel used 
 is a Shallow one. 
 
 This method has its advantages for several 
 things—vegetables, for instance, which are to 
 be lightly browned, chops or steaks which, re- 
 quire very quickly doing, and most dishes of 
 egos, such as omelettes, although these last 
 should have a vessel kept for their sole use. 
 
 Fish of all kinds, bread-crumbed cutlets, 
 rissoles, fritters, etc., all require to be plunged 
 into boiling fat. The principle in cooking them 
 
 is the same as in boiling meat—to form a crust 
 82 
 
FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 83 
 
 at once upon the outside that shall keep in the 
 flavours and juices of the article fried. 
 
 For this purpose a deep iron vessel is the 
 only true frying-pan; its depth may be from 
 six to eight inches, and its dimensions sufficient 
 to take in a good-sized fish. Most French pans 
 of this description have the handles across the 
 top, so that the pan can be hung on a chain if 
 more convenient when using over an open fire. 
 
 Here again the charcoal stove is preferable, 
 as the embers should be red-hot; it is impossi- 
 ble to fry well over a smoky or blazing fire. 
 
 These frying-pans are invariably quite half 
 filled with fat; at first sight it may seem ex- 
 travagant, but itis not really so, as with care, 
 and taking due precautions, the same fat will 
 serve very many times. 
 
 If poured off into a jar, which already con- 
 tains a little boiling water, as soon as it is 
 finished with, and covered over when quite 
 cold, keeping in a cool place, it will but seldom 
 require renewing. Of course, when fish has 
 been fried in this, it should be reserved for 
 that purpose alone, as also anything else of a 
 strong flavour. 
 
 An excellent idea of good frying might be 
 gained by watching the performance of the 
 
84 FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 
 
 ‘‘marchand de pommes-de-terre frites,’ whose 
 stall is such a common sight in the streets of 
 all French towns. 
 
 His little furnace is filled with coke, red-hot, 
 the iron pan, slung on a chain, so that he can 
 raise or lower it at will, is three parts full of 
 boiling fat. The fat he prefers, by the bye, is 
 suet melted, as it is clear and tasteless. 
 
 The potatoes, pared, drained, and cut into 
 finger lengths by a little machine made for the 
 purpose, are thrown into the pan, and occa- 
 sionally stirred about; a few minutes see them 
 cooked, brown and crisp, then the pan is drawn 
 up, the potatoes lifted out into the strainer; 
 and here it should be noted how careful he is 
 not to leave one in the fat, lest that should, by 
 being overdone, impart a burnt flavour to the 
 rest. 
 
 In this same manner suburban Parisian 
 restaurants will turn out the most tempting 
 dishes from the rather coarse and tasteless river 
 fish. If the precaution is taken to have the fat 
 quite boiling, there is no fear of anything be- 
 coming soddened with grease when cooked in 
 this way. Boiling fat is generally still, free 
 from bubbles, and a faint blue vapour may be 
 seen to rise from it, 
 
FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 85 
 
 It is really more difficult to sauté to perfec- 
 tion than it is to fry well. In the former case, 
 the great point to observe is to take care the 
 sauté is not too much done, as in that case it 
 will not be eatable. To toss it hght and quickly, 
 and remove before it has had time to, become 
 tough, is a safe rule. 
 
 Potatoes are very frequently dressed in this 
 manner when intended to eat with veal or 
 pork ; finely chopped parsley is sprinkled over 
 them just before serving. Cold boiled potatoes 
 are by this means rendered equal to fresh ones. 
 
 Carrots, turnips, and parsnips, with a variety 
 of beans, are all excellent if so treated. 
 
 Hees may be lightly tossed in the sauté pan 
 without actually making an omelette of them. 
 Parsley is a great addition to all sautés. 
 
 A favourite form of using up cold meat by 
 frying is to make “ rissoles.” 
 
 Remains of any meat or poultry, with a few 
 bread-crumbs, herbs and a minced shallot, and 
 a little good sauce to moisten the whole. 
 
 Roll out a sheet of paste (puff paste is the 
 best) to an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut 
 into squares, place a little of the mince in the 
 middle, fold over securely, and fasten the edges 
 together with white of egg: plunge into the pan 
 
86 FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 
 
 of boiling fat, let them cook a few minutes, 
 when they will swell out and become deliciously 
 crisp and brown. 
 
 If drained on a sheet of blotting-paper, then 
 garnished with curled parsley, quite a hand- 
 some dish may be obtained at a very small cost. 
 
 Sweet rissoles may be made the same way, 
 substituting minced apples, bread crumbs, and 
 a little honey for the meat. | 
 
 The “ Beignet aux pommes,”’ the really 
 
 genuine apple fritter, is rather different to the 
 apple fritter of the English cook. 
 _ The batter is made by mixing a tablespoonful 
 of flour smoothly with a little water, then add- 
 ing a little salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and two 
 beaten whites of eggs. 
 
 The apples are pared, quartered, and evenly 
 sliced, then allowed to soak a little while in 
 some sweet wine, with a few drops of lemon- 
 juice. When ready to use them, dip each piece 
 in the batter, and drop iuto the boiling fat. 
 When cooked and drained, they should be 
 liberally frosted with white sugar. 
 
 Oranges may be done in this way, also 
 rhubarb cut into short pieces. Many little 
 cakes made of dough may be fried in this way, 
 and they are truly delicious. 
 
FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 87 
 
 Where butter or meat fat is difficult to obtain, 
 boiling oil is used for the same purposes; it 
 is an excellent substitute when once one has 
 become accustomed to the flavour. 
 
 In Italy and Spain it is generally preferred 
 to any other fat. 
 
 French pancakes or “crépes” are dropped 
 into boiling fat; hence the curious shapes they 
 assume: the cause of much merriment at carnival 
 parties. 
 
 But they are certainly not superior to the 
 eenuine Hnglish pancake, the shallow frying- 
 pan being eminently suited to this dish, and 
 here at least the English cook can hold her 
 
 own. 
 
 It used to be the boast of the old race of 
 Virginian cooks that they could toss a pancake 
 with such accuracy up the mouth of the wide 
 chimney, that it would turn itself, and come 
 down, like. St. Lawrence, ready to have the 
 other side fried. 
 
 Fortunately, it is not necessary to attain the 
 skill needful to perform this acrobatic exploit 
 in order to turn out a first-class pancake. In 
 the making of these, as in most other things, 
 experience 1s the best teacher. 
 
 The distinction should always be observed 
 
88 FRYING AND “SAUTE”-ING. 
 
 between a fritter and a pancake, remembering 
 that the one is boiled in fat, while the other is 
 fried—first one side and then the other. 
 
 When making a number of fritters or small 
 things, it is a great convenience to place them 
 in one of the wire baskets, sold for the purpose, 
 before plunging them in the pan. 
 
 Omelettes are a “race apart,’’? and will be 
 found under the head of “ Maigre Dishes.” 
 They can scarcely be said to be fried, and they 
 certainly are not boiled, 
 
Paar rnin. VIL. 
 
 Some Gateaur and Compotes. 
 
 HILE standing pre-eminent in the art of 
 pastry-making, the French cook is not 
 great in the matter of cakes. A glance at the 
 “ Patissier’s”? window will show this directly. 
 Amongst all the appetising array of dainty con- 
 fections the number of cakes may be counted 
 upon one’s fingers. And the “‘bourgeoise ména- 
 gére” would never dream of making a loaf of 
 cake, although she has a great appreciation of 
 both plum-cake and plum-pudding; while her 
 Hneglish sister is ever on the look-out for some- 
 thing new to add to her already lengthy list. 
 Here, be it stated, the “‘giteau” is not 
 exactly a “cake,” it is rather a dessert dish, 
 and as such is most generally used in the 
 country where puddings are little known, AI- 
 though some of them in their fanciful decoration 
 are beyond the scope of the amateur, still a few 
 
 of them may be fairly well imitated. 
 89 
 
900 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOFES 
 
 / 
 
 The “Génoise fourrée”’ is the foundation of 
 many charming gateaux—the fourrée, or filling, 
 being varied at will. 
 
 The number of eggs needed depends upon the 
 size of the giteau required. The whites and 
 yolks are separated, and both thoroughly beaten; | 
 with the yolks a little rose water or orange- 
 flower water is mixed; pounded sugar and fine 
 
 dry flour in proportions of a quarter of a pound 
 of each to four eggs; the whites are added last 
 of all, and the whole thoroughly beaten, then 
 poured into a well-buttered tin not more than 
 two to three inches in depth, and baked in a 
 quick oven till a delicate brown. 
 
 For a “giteau d’Abricots,”’ this would be 
 spht open and apricot preserve spread between ; 
 the whole would then be covered with clear 
 sugar icing, and richly ornamented with candied 
 fruits. Or sometimes in place of preserve will 
 be found the ‘‘créme Frangipane” and _ the 
 icing, or, as a substitute for the icing, caramel 
 would be used. 
 
 The same foundation is used for a chocolate or 
 coffee cream gateau; the cream consisting of 
 butter and pounded sugar well beaten together, 
 with the addition of made coffee or chocolate. 
 This being very stiff is used also for the outside 
 decoration, and is wreathed into many fantastic 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES.™ 91 
 
 forms; the outer edge of the giteau being 
 covered with grated almonds. 
 
 “Paté d’Hclair” is the foundation of quite a 
 distinct kind of gateau. 
 
 Its ingredients are butter, flour, and beaten 
 egos, no sugar, but a pinch of salt. The butter 
 is first dissolved in a lined saucepan, the flour 
 briskly stirred in, a small quantity of warm 
 milk added, and this is boiled, stirring rapidly 
 all the time, for about five minutes. It must not 
 be stiff even then, therefore but a small quantity 
 of flour is needed. Let this become cool before 
 stirring into 1t the well-whisked eggs. 
 
 For “Welairs aux Chocolat” this batter 
 would be poured into little boat-shaped moulds, 
 well oiled, and when cooked they would be split 
 open and a spoonful of custard cream inserted 
 in the hollow, closed up again, and the outside 
 coated over with melted chocolate. 
 
 “ Choux A la créme”’ are round tartlets made 
 of this batter, the hollow filled with cream. 
 The paté, if made a little stiffer, is used for 
 fancy erections, basket-work devices, ete. 
 
 “ Wrangipane ” is a delicious creamy custard. 
 To beaten eggs, new milk and a very little flour 
 are added, with fine white sugar; these are 
 brought nearly to boiling-point, and when thick, 
 crushed ratifias, a glass of brandy, lemon-juice, 
 
92 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 and a little butter arestirred in. Tartlets made 
 of pité feuilleté are filled with this. 
 
 A “giteau au riz” is a sweet dish very 
 popular in France. Whole rice is cooked in 
 milk till quite soft, and the milk nearly ab- 
 sorbed ; then sugar, lemon-juice, a little butter, 
 and beaten eggs are well stirred in. The mix- 
 ture is poured into a shallow mould, which has 
 been well buttered and coated with fine bread- 
 crumbs and sugar. ‘This is baked until firmly 
 set, when it is turned out, and covered all over 
 with caramel, and ornamented according to 
 fancy. It is always eaten cold. 
 
 The “ brioche ”’ is quite a different production 
 to the English bun. One-third of the quantity 
 of flour intended to be used is mixed to a very 
 soft paste with a little frothing yeast and warm 
 water ; with the other two-thirds of flour, eggs, 
 a little butter, a few currants, salt, and more 
 warm water are mixed to a soft paste again. 
 These two pastes are then kneaded together to 
 form a dough, which is left to rise several hours ; 
 then the brioches are cut out, brushed over with 
 ego and milk, and baked very quickly. They 
 are exceedingly light, and much liked by people 
 who do not care for sweet cakes. 
 
 The same mixture is baked in loaves, which 
 are cut up and buttered, as for bread and butter. 
 
_ SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 93 
 The cakes made at the fétes in the country 
 towns and villages are very similar, more or 
 less rich, with or without the fruit, according to 
 the custom of the district. 
 
 Here should be mentioned the “ tarte,” the 
 genuine country tart, which makes its appear- 
 ance on every table when the “ ducasse”’ or 
 “wakes” come round. The crust bears some 
 resemblance to the ‘ paté d’Hclair,” but the 
 country flour renders it much more substantial ; 
 the custard which frills it is a wonderful com- 
 pound of eggs, milk and sugar, spice, with 
 here and there an occasional raisin making its 
 appearance. 
 
 When well made, this compound is very good, 
 but an inferior make has an unfortunate resem- 
 blance to leather, and needs a country appetite 
 to make it “ go down.” 
 
 When making tarts of fresh fruit, the ‘ bour- 
 geoise”’ will invariably make a marmalade of 
 her fruit before laying it on her crust; placing 
 a lattice-work of strips of pastry to finish off the 
 top. A fruit “ pie,” or tart, with the crust over 
 the fruit, is quite unknown in France. 
 
 Puddings are but little adopted in French 
 families, gaufres and biscuits, with ‘ confiture,” 
 in winter, or compote of fruit in summer. Fresh 
 fruit and cheese is the general finish to a dinner, 
 
, 94 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 Pastry and sweets are only indulged in on 
 Sundays and extra occasions. 
 
 Nearly all fruits may be made into compotes. 
 The syrup should be made first by dissolving 
 sugar in water, and allowing it to boil; then 
 the fruit is added, whole or divided, and cooked 
 until tender; the syrup remaining after the 
 fruit is removed may be boiled till it thickens, 
 and receive colouring to make it contrast, if 
 desired. 
 
 A compote of apples, pared and quartered, 
 cooked in clear syrup, the remaining liquor 
 coloured with cochineal, makes a very pretty 
 dish. Pears invariably receive the addition of 
 claret, and they are cooked in the oven, as they 
 require a much longer time. The wine is 
 thought no extravagance, as it so greatly 
 _ enriches the fruit. 
 
 There is a very wide difference between a 
 compote and “stewed fruit,’ but with the 
 former, as with the latter, the addition of a 
 little whipped cream or custard is a great 
 improvement. 
 
 The good “ ménagére” generally prefers to 
 make her own “ liqueurs.” Jor all of them the 
 fruit is steeped in spirit till all the goodness is 
 extracted, then sugar equal to the weight of the 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 95 
 
 liquor is added, and all boiled together for 
 about twenty minutes. When cool, it is bottled 
 off. They make very wholesome drinks with 
 the addition of water. 
 
 There is a sweet pickle of very high repute 
 in Switzerland. Date-plums, dry and sound, 
 and not too ripe, are taken and placed in salt 
 and water for forty-eight hours. They are 
 then drained and dried in the sun. Afterwards 
 they are put into jars, and boiling vinegar with 
 pounded sugar (a pound to a pint) is poured 
 over them. When cool, they are closely covered 
 and set away. Itis a delicious pickle for cold 
 meat. Cherries also are very good done this 
 way. 
 
 Soufflé un Citron. 
 
 A souffié may be either steamed or baked ; 
 in either case it must be eaten without a 
 moment’s loss of time, as it falls directly. Re- 
 member also to only partly fill the mould which 
 is used; this species of “gateau”’ usually 
 trebles itself in size while cooking. 
 
 To make a soufflé for six persons, take a pint 
 of milk, four ounces of lump sugar, and three 
 fresh eggs. Boil the milk and sugar, together 
 
96 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 with the pared lemon rind, in a lined saucepan. 
 Mix smoothly with a httle cold milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, then pour the boiling milk 
 on to this, taking care there are no lumps. 
 Return all to the saucepan, and boil, stirring 
 rapidly, for three or four minutes, then pour 
 this into a basin. 
 
 When the above mixture is perfectly cold, 
 beat into it the whisked yolks of eggs, the juice 
 of half a lemon (the rind must have been re- 
 moved before), and lastly the frothed whites. 
 Have your mould well buttered, pour the mix- 
 ture into it, and either bake or steam it (without 
 a cover) for twenty minutes. The cover of the 
 steamer must of course be fastened down; there 
 should be sufficient depth of pan to allow of the 
 soufflé rising without coming in contact with the 
 lid. Serve citron sauce with this soufllé. (See 
 Chapter V.) 
 
 If preferred, the flavouring may be omitted 
 from the soufilé, and a chocolate sauce made 
 and poured round it on the dish. ,For the 
 latter, scrape or dissolve a tablet of chocolate, 
 add a quarter of a pint of water to it, anda 
 teaspoonful of cornflour to give smoothness and 
 substance; boil well. 
 
 It will be easily seen that a plain soufflé may 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 97 
 
 be varied by the admixture of almost any 
 flavouring, also by the variety of sauces served 
 with it. 
 
 The first part of the mixture may be made 
 any time in advance. 
 
 Diplomate. 
 
 Remove the crust from some thin slices of 
 stale white bread, and stamp them into small 
 rounds; dip each one in sweet wine. (If pre- 
 ferred, sponge biscuits or stale sponge cakes 
 may be used instead.) Butter a plain round 
 mould. Arrange the rounds evenly at the 
 bottom and sides, sprinkle the bottom with 
 stoned raisins, a few currants and strips of 
 candied peel. Put another layer of bread or 
 biscuits next, and alternate thus with the fruit 
 until the mould is three-quarters filled. Boil 
 a pint of milk, pour it after sweetening upon 
 two beaten eggs, add spice and salt; then care- 
 fully pour this custard into the mould. Let 
 the mould stand for two or three hours, then 
 bake or steam it for three-quarters to one hour. 
 Turn out, and serve with wine or custard sauce 
 poured round ib, 
 
 P.C, H 
 
98 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 Savarin. 
 
 The mould generally used for this is a large 
 ring with a hollow centre. 
 
 The ingredients required are half a pound of 
 fine flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, half 
 a tumblerful of warm milk, an ounce of fresh 
 German yeast, a tablespoonful of sugar and half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, with two eggs. 
 
 Put the flour in a basin, make a hollow in the 
 centre, and put in the yeast mixed smoothly 
 with warm water and the milk; mix this with 
 sufficient of the flour to make a stiff dough. 
 Cover the basin, and set that in a warm place 
 where the sponge may rise. When it has 
 risen to twice its original size, add to it the 
 sugar, the butter ready dissolved (but not too 
 warm), salt, and the eggs—broken but not 
 beaten. Knead these all briskly together with 
 the hand, until the dough appears all bubbles. 
 
 Butter the mould, and sprinkle the inside 
 with blanched and chopped almonds and pow- 
 dered sugar. Half fill it with the paste; set in 
 a warm place to rise until the mould becomes 
 quite full. | 
 
 Bake it in a quick oven for about half an 
 hour. Let it slightly cool, then turn ont on to 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 99 
 
 a fancy dish, and pour over it the following 
 syrup :— 
 
 Four ounces of sugar boiled with a tumbler- 
 ful of water, and flavoured with a little rnm or 
 essence. 
 
 Galette Cherbourg’eoise. 
 
 Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 work it into half a pound of baker’s dough ; 
 add to it two beaten eges, two spoonfuls of 
 spirits of wine or other spirit, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Knead or beat well for several 
 minutes ; let it stand in a warm place to rise 
 for a couple of hours, place in a buttered tin 
 which it will only three parts fill, and bake for 
 thirty minutes; turn out and serve hot. 
 
 Galette Lorraine. 
 
 Rub together half a pound of flour and half 
 as much butter, add a pinch of salt and an ege, 
 with water sufficient to form a stiff paste. 
 Roll out to the thickness of a five-shilling piece, 
 place on a buttered tin, crimp the edge, then 
 bake in the oven for a few minutes; when 
 partly done draw it out, and pour upon it a 
 cream made from two beaten eggs and a cup of 
 sweetened milk, Sprinkle a few chopped nuts 
 
100 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 over, and bake until the custard is set and 
 browned. 
 Saint Honore. 
 
 Make a paste by putting into a saucepan a 
 tumblerful of water, a little sugar, the size of 
 an egg in butter, a pinch of salt, and a small 
 bit of lemon rind; and when these are boiling, 
 dredge lightly and carefully in with one hand 
 (stirring vigorously all the time with the other) 
 sufficient flour to make a lght paste. 
 
 Keep stirring for five minutes longer, then 
 take off the fire, and allow the paste to cool. 
 When cool, break into it three eggs, one after 
 the other, beating the paste all the time. 
 
 Form part of this paste as the crust of a tart- 
 let, and bake it in the oven till of a bright brown. 
 
 Drop the remaining paste in small balls on to 
 a buttered tin; bake them also. When the 
 tartlet is done, take these balls, coat them with 
 melted sugar, and place them all round the edge 
 of it, pour the remaining syrup over all the 
 edge again. Jill the interior with a thick 
 pastry cream, or whipped cream, and serve 
 fresh. 
 
 Marasquin. 
 
 Blanch and crush half a pound of sweet 
 
 almonds. Add to the paste four ounces of 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES.- tot 
 
 butter or pure lard, four ounces of dry flour, 
 the same weight of sugar, two eggs—the whites 
 and yolks beaten separately, two spoonfuls of 
 orange-flower water, a pinch of salt and spoonful 
 of cream. 
 
 Beat these ingredients well together, and 
 spread them over a round of good puff paste. 
 Bake for upwards of half an hour. Glaze the 
 surface with sugar and water, or a little dis- 
 solved sweet Jelly. 
 
 Quatre-quarts. (Four Quarters.) 
 
 Take three or four eggs. The same weight 
 in flour, butter, and powdered sugar; mix all 
 well together, and add a glassful of spirit or 
 orange flower-water to the whole. ‘The whites 
 of the eggs should be beaten stiff and added 
 lastly. Buttera mould, sugar it well, and bake 
 the cake in a moderate oven for upwards of an 
 hour. 
 
 May be flavoured at discretion. 
 
 Gateau d’cufs, au Vanille. 
 
 Separate the yolks and whites of four eggs. 
 Beat the whites to a stiff froth, then lghtly stir 
 into them four spoonfuls of powdered sugar 
 and a few drops of essence of vanilla (if vanilla 
 
eo Sa 
 
 102 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 is disliked, use lemon-juice) ; have ready a fancy 
 mould well buttered and sprinkled inside with 
 sugar. Pour the whites into this—they should 
 not more than half fill it—and steam the mould, 
 setting it in a bain-marie. When it has well 
 risen and seems set, turn it out on to a dish, 
 and pour round it a sweet custard made from 
 the yolks. Garnish with currant jelly. 
 
 Créme Renversée. 
 
 For a moderately large mould take a quart of 
 milk and boil it with halfa pound of lump sugar 
 and fresh lemon rind, or part of a pod of vanilla. 
 When cooled a little, stir it into eight eggs 
 lightly beaten, the yolks and whites together, 
 then pour this cream into a buttered mould 
 which will just contain it, and set the mould in 
 a bain-marie or ina cooloven. When the cream 
 is become solid, set the mould in a cold place, 
 and when required turn it out on to a dish, and 
 place currant jelly around it. 
 
 Creme Sambayone. 
 
 Separate the yolks and whites of six eggs. 
 Place the yolks in a saucepan, with three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar and a wineglassful of rum or 
 brandy ; stir these briskly together over the fire 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTE SF 133 
 
 until the mixture begins to thicken, when with- 
 draw it at once. Beat the whites to a stiff froth 
 and stir them into the yolks when the latter 
 mixture is cool. Pour into small glasses or 
 cups. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Line the bottom and sides of a plain mould 
 with finger biscuits and ratafias. Full up the 
 mould with whipped cream, or a cream made 
 with isinglass, which when cold wiil become 
 solid. 
 
 Set the mould on ice or in a very cold place. 
 Turn out of the mould just before bringing to 
 the table. 
 
 Compote of Quinces. 
 
 Throw some quinces into boiling water for a 
 few minutes, lift them out and pour a little cold 
 water over them. Next, peel them carefully, 
 take out seeds and cores, quarter and sub- 
 quarter them and put these latter into a little 
 clear boiling syrup and allow them to cook until 
 thoroughly done. Take the fruit out on to a 
 dish, boil the syrup a little longer to reduce it, 
 then pour over the fruit. 
 
104 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 
 
 Compote of Pears. 
 
 Pare the pears very thinly, slice them not too 
 thinly, but removing the pips. Lay them ina 
 stewpan with two or three lumps of sugar, a 
 clove or two, and blade of cinnamon. Pour over 
 them a tumblerful of claret and water enough 
 to just cover them. Cover up the stewpan, 
 place it in the corner of the oven and let the 
 pears cook gently thus for at least an hour or 
 more. 
 
 Compote of Cherries. 
 
 Make a clear syrup with sugar and a little 
 water. Cut away all the stalk save about half 
 an inch from some sour cherries. Let them 
 cook in the syrup until thoroughly soft. Allow 
 
 them to get cold in this before removing them 
 to a dish. 
 
 Compote of Plums. 
 
 Make the syrup, and put the plums in when 
 it is boiling hot. Let them cook not too rapidly, 
 until they show signs of breaking, then remove 
 them to a dish, and pour the syrup over. 
 
 Compote of Prunes. 
 Let the prunes soak for several hours in cold 
 water. Pour away this water, then place the 
 
SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. 105 
 
 prunes in a stewpan with sufficient fresh water 
 to cover them and a few lumps of sugar. Cover 
 closely and cook slowly for a couple of hours. 
 
 Compote of Rhubarb. 
 
 Make a little syrup; cut the rhubarb—after 
 wiping with a clean cloth—into inch lengths. 
 Drop the pieces into the syrup and cook until 
 they show signs of breaking. Remove the fruit 
 toa dish. Adda few drops of lemon juice to 
 the syrup, boil it until it becomes reduced, and 
 pour over the rhubarb. 
 
 When making a compote of strawberries use 
 red currant juice instead of water for the syrup. 
 
 It is generally sufficient to pour a boiling 
 syrup over ripe strawberries, having the berries 
 in a dish which will not break, and letting them 
 lie in the syrup until perfectly cold before re- 
 moving to their proper dish. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 “Maigrve” Dishes, 
 
 HILE, in the present degenerate days, 
 “fast days” are but little observed in 
 comparison with the fashion of keeping them in 
 the old times, when the ‘‘curés” held undisputed 
 sway, still, amongst fairly good Catholics, Friday 
 is set apart as a day when no meat shall appear 
 on the table—while the weeks of Lent are the 
 butcher’s holiday time. 
 
 Good Friday is rigidly kept as a day of absti- 
 nence by all classes; almost superstitiously 
 kept, indeed, for to eat meat or any animal fat 
 on that day would be regarded as a wilful 
 courting of calamity. Hven eggs and butter 
 are excluded from the menu of the good 
 Catholic on that occasion. 
 
 As a rule, to “faire maigre” is merely to 
 abstain from meat, its place being taken by 
 
 fish. During the Lenten season it is somewhat 
 106 
 
Bet AiGRE:” SDISHLES. 107 
 
 difficult to find vegetables to make separate 
 dishes from, the winter’s supply being nearly 
 exhausted, or becoming tough, while it is still 
 too early in the year to look for fresh ones. 
 
 The ‘‘ménagére,”’ therefore, looks to her fowl 
 pen as her great resource, and, fortunately, eggs 
 are by then both good and plentiful and fairly 
 cheap. fish is generally abundant at that 
 time, and a good choice to be had. 
 
 Almost all vegetable soups come under the 
 title of “maigre,’ but ‘“potage au lait” is 
 eminently entitled to do so. In the best 
 “cuisines”? it is made after this fashion. 
 
 A quart of milk is boiled for a little time to 
 extract the flavour from a small piece of lemon 
 rind, a few coriander seeds, and a small piece 
 of stick cinnamon ; a pinch of salt and several 
 lumps of sugar. It is then strained, and a 
 small quantity poured over the soft part of a 
 thick slice of bread cut into dice, and put in 
 the tureen. 
 
 This is placed where it will keep hot, and 
 into the remainder of the milk two yolks of 
 eges should be stirred, and then allowed to boil 
 till they slightly thicken the milk, when it also 
 is poured into the tureen and served immedi- 
 ately. 
 
108 “MAIGRE” DISHES. 
 
 “ Bisque,’ made from crab, is_ generally 
 thought to be a rather rare dish, but it can be 
 made with very httle trouble. 
 
 From a cooked crab all the fleshy part should 
 be taken and carefully pounded in a mortar 
 with an equal quantity of boiled rice, a little 
 water, and cayenne pepper; pass it through a 
 tamis, and add a sufficient quantity of boiling 
 milk or cream; then pour into a hot tureen. 
 
 A very small quantity of lobster butter (which 
 is simply the coral of a lobster pounded with 
 butter), if stirred in, will turn it a bright red, 
 and make a very pretty dish. 
 
 A very delicate and tasty dish of salted cod- 
 fish is made as follows: To clear the fish from 
 salt it 1s allowed to he in water for twenty-four 
 hours; it is then slightly boiled, drained, ard 
 broken into flakes. 
 
 Into the sauté pan a few knobs of butter are 
 put to melt, then a httle white bread, roughly 
 crumbed, and a teacupful of cold mashed 
 potatoes; these are tossed about with a fork, 
 and a cupful of milk added by degrees, with a 
 cood seasoning of pepper; lastly, the flakes of 
 cod are added, and all well beaten with the fork 
 until it froths; it is then poured out into a hot 
 dish and eaten with strips of toasted bread. 
 
Bu AIGRiE” DISHES. 109 
 
 A favourite way of cooking flat fish, such as 
 soles or plaice, with French cooks is to do them 
 “au gratin.” When so cooked, they should be 
 served in the same dish; a silver one is best, 
 but a bright block tin will answer the purpose. 
 
 The bottom of the dish is well buttered, and 
 spread with finely-minced herbs, a shallot or 
 two, seasoning, and bread-crumbs. ‘The fish is 
 placed upon this bed, and covered over with 
 the same mixture; then placed in the oven to 
 bake. A glass of white wine is generally 
 added. 
 
 “Sole 4 la Normande” is done similarly to 
 the preceding ; but a rich sauce, made of melted 
 butter, yolks of eggs, button mushrooms, oysters, 
 and a little lemon-juice and white wine, is poured 
 - over the fish before sending to table. Itis a 
 truly Epicurean dish. 
 
 Mackerel and herrings are excellent when 
 split open, boned, and broiled over a clear fire ; 
 they are better still if the following sauce be 
 poured over them: Melted butter (slightly 
 thickened with flour), a spoonful of vinegar, 
 the same of Worcestershire sauce, also one of 
 chopped parsley ; pepper and salt to taste. 
 
 We will now consider the subject of omelettes 
 —one of the easiest things to make, and also 
 
110 “ VAIGRE” DISHES, 
 
 one of the easiest to spoil. It is strange how 
 few English cooks seem able to turn out a 
 really good omelette, and yet the veriest ‘‘ pay- 
 sanne” in a country café in sunny France will 
 make one, ata moment’s notice, to satisfy the 
 most critical taste. 
 
 Let us, in imagination, visit one of these 
 cafés, and watch how the good wife proceeds. 
 Setting a hght to her charcoal braisiére, she 
 will wait till the embers are red, then put on 
 her pan, generally a black iron sauté pan, kept 
 for this purpose alone; into this she drops a 
 lump of butter, and whilo it is melting she 
 breaks her eggs on to a plate, beats them 
 quickly with a knife, and adds salt and pepper 
 to them. 
 
 When the butter is frothing and turning 
 brown, she pours in the eggs, slips a knife 
 underneath the middle and round the edge, to 
 insure it not sticking to the pan, and as soon as 
 ever it is “set,” she “whips” off her pan, 
 claps a hot plate over it, and with a dexterous 
 twist manages to turn it upside down, and re- 
 move the pan, leaving the omelette on the plate 
 —light, with a delicate brown crust upper- 
 most. 
 
 This plain omelette may be varied ad in- 
 
WMATGRE* DISHES. III 
 
 finitum by adding minced onion, herbs, parsley, 
 mushrooms, cheese, or whatever fancy may 
 dictate. 
 
 Another way of making omelettes is to beat 
 the eggs, whites and yolks separately, and add 
 afew spoonfuls of milk. This makes quite a 
 different kind, and is more suitable for sweet 
 omelettes when preserves or jellies are eaten 
 with them. 
 
 Two eggs per person is a very moderate 
 allowance when making single omelettes. When 
 several persons are intending to partake at the 
 same time, it is better to use more eggs, and 
 make one large one. 
 
 Salad is a delicious companion dish to a 
 savoury omelette, and makes it a very substantial 
 luncheon or supper dish. When ham is obtain- 
 able, some very thin slices slightly frizzled are 
 also an excellent addition, when not intending 
 to make a meal exclusively “au maigre.” 
 
 Hegs are also very good when cooked “au 
 eratin.” The same preparation is used as for 
 “sole au gratin,” and the eggs broken on to the 
 bed, and allowed to cook until just firm. 
 
 A great variety of excellent ‘“ maigre” dishes 
 may be made from rice and macaroni. Rice is, 
 perhaps, most generally liked when used for 
 
Ti2 PMA LGRIS? IIIS Fis 
 
 sweet dishes, or in curries. With cheese or 
 fruit it is an excellent food. 
 
 Macaroni is not generally appreciated in 
 England, but on the Continent it becomes a 
 wholesome and delicious preparation. Dishes 
 of macaroni, with tomatoes, mushrooms, truffles, 
 cheese, or fish are all good. 
 
 The following recipe may be novel to many 
 people :—After the macaroni has been boiled 
 and drained, put it into a stewpan with a lump 
 of butter, two tablespoonfuls of cream, and as 
 much grated Parmesan as will make it as thick 
 as custard ; toss well together with a fork; then 
 take a French roll, which has been previously 
 soaked in wine and made hot; pour the maca- 
 roni over it, and slightly brown in the oven. 
 
 Always put macaroni into boiling water with 
 salt; allow twenty minutes for it to cook 
 through; then drain well before using it. 
 
 As being pre-eminently Lenten faring, most 
 of the recipes for the cooking of fish will be 
 found grouped under this heading. 
 
 The method of cooking fish “au gratin ” has 
 been detailed above; the following is another 
 capital way of treating flat fish :— 
 
er aiGRE ™ DISHES. 113 
 After washing and drying, cut it down the 
 middle on the white side, carefully raise the 
 meat from the bones on each side, but do not 
 hift it right off. Prepare a httle lhght, well- 
 seasoned stuffing of bread-crumbs, parsley, 
 butter-seasoning and egg, no milk; spread this 
 on the under side of the raised flesh, press it 
 down to the bone again, brush over the surface 
 with beaten egg, sprinkle with seasoned crumbs; 
 lay the fish in a buttered tin, put dabs of butter 
 over the top, and bake for about fifteen minutes 
 in a quick oven. ‘The fish should be well 
 browned on the surface, then slipped out on to 
 a hot dish, and a white or brown sauce, with 
 capers or chopped gherkins, poured around— 
 not over—it. 
 
 Morue a la Hollandaise. 
 
 A cod’s head and shoulders or a whole fish is 
 best served this way. 
 
 Boiled in water containing plenty of salt and 
 one or two lemons cut in quarters. Drain it 
 when a skewer will penetrate to the bone with 
 ease. Lay ona folded serviette, place large, 
 mealy, boiled potatoes around it, and tufts of 
 curly parsley. Send pure butter melted to table 
 in a tureen. 
 
 B.C. I 
 
114 “MAIGRE "1 DISH, 
 
 Baked Cod. 
 
 A fair-sized piece out of the middle of a cod. 
 Crimp it, by cutting it through to the bone at 
 regular distances. Sprinkle it liberally, inside 
 and out, with pepper and salt and fresh parsley, 
 squeeze lemon juice over it, lay in a baking tin, 
 and bake in moderate oven, with frequent bast- 
 ings of butter. Serve with “ maitre-d’hétel ”’ 
 butter. 
 
 Halibut Steaks 
 may be baked “au gratin,” or grilled, or fried, 
 and served witha brown “ sauce piquante,”’ or 
 they may be done 
 
 a la Creme. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of butter, stir into it a 
 tablespoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, 
 and add a tumblerful of hot water. Lay the 
 halibut in a buttered shallow stewpan, cover it 
 with this sauce, let it simmer gently (covered 
 over) until tender. A small white onion and 
 bunch of sweet herbs should be put in the pan 
 at the same time. When the fish is sufficiently 
 cooked remove it to a dish and keep hot. 
 
 Take out the onion and flavourings, and 
 
“ MAIGRE” DISHES. 115 
 
 thicken the sauce by adding the yolk of an ege 
 and a few spoonfuls of cream to it; then pour 
 it over the fish. A hard-boiled ego cut up small 
 should be sprinkled over the top of all; or, 
 instead of adding yolk of ege to the sauce, stir 
 ina spoonful of anchovy essence with the cream, 
 and use lobster coral, picked shrimps or prawns 
 for the surface decoration. 
 
 Salmon Steaks, 
 
 wrapped in buttered notepaper, and slowly 
 grilled over a clear, hot, but not blazing fire, 
 then eaten with “ petits pois’? (see sequel to 
 Chapter III.) are an Epicurean dish. 
 
 Red mullet enveloped in the same manner— 
 not stinting the butter, by the way—may be 
 either baked or grilled, and are most delicious. 
 
 When a portion out of the middle of a salmon 
 is the piece chosen, it will be found that baking 
 it is a method preferable to the boiling thereof ; 
 although no method can surpass boiling for this 
 king of fish if it be a whole one or a very large 
 piece. 
 
 Squeeze a little fresh lemon juice over it 
 before baking, and use only the best fresh 
 butter. 
 
116 “MAIGRE” DISHES, 
 
 Mackerel and Herring, 
 
 like most oily fish, will be found to bake better 
 than boil. When possible the bones should be 
 removed, the fish rubbed on both sides with 
 lemon juice, some fresh minced herbs and season- 
 ing, with a few bread-crumbs, laid on the flat 
 inner side of one fish, another one being laid 
 sandwich fashion over this, then both baked to- 
 gether, using but a very tiny bit of butter, only 
 sufficient to keep the fish from adhering to the 
 tin. 
 
 There are two ways of pickling fish—‘.e., for 
 the lighter and more delicate kinds, taking the 
 remaining portions of the fish after boiling, lay 
 the meat flakes in a china dish, season lightly, 
 place a few leaves of fennel, tarragon or parsley 
 about, and pour a little white wine vinegar over 
 all. Set aside until required. 
 
 Pickled mackerel, herrings, etc., after very 
 thorough washing are laid in a_ pie-dish, 
 sprinkled with salt, several pepper-corns added, 
 and vinegar sufficient to cover them. Baked 
 until they show signs of leaving the bone. 
 
 In boiling any kind of fish itis better to have 
 the water very nearly at boiling point when the 
 
*“MAIGRE" DISHES. 117 
 fish is put in, to bring it to the boil as quickly 
 as possible, then to draw the pan aside and 
 summer until done. 
 
 Never cook fish until it will not keep its 
 shape ; as soon asa fine skewer will penetrate its 
 thickest part it is done. 
 
 For using up the remains of fish—when there 
 are any nice pieces—few methods are better 
 than to curry it. The flakes of fish will, how- 
 ever, only require to be made hot in the curry, 
 not cooked in it. 
 
 A little vegetable or fruit—apple, rhubarb or 
 gooseberry,—are needed in a fish curry, and 
 egos boiled hard and sliced, or boiled rice for 
 its garnish. 
 
 A Mayonnaise 
 
 of cold boiled or baked fish is another excellent 
 and delicate way of using up the remains. 
 
 A crisp white-hearted lettuce, the fish broken 
 into small flakes, sliced or chopped boiled egg, 
 and a little good mayonnaise sauce (see Chapter 
 V.) poured over all, and prettily decorated. 
 
 We have it on the authority of Professor 
 Matthieu Williams that the chief reason why 
 cheese is found to be difficult of digestion is be- 
 
118 OUMATGREE” DISHES. 
 
 cause the mineral properties of the milk have 
 been left behind inthe whey. ‘To neutralise the 
 acid remaining in cheese, and to supply the 
 deficiency mentioned, he advocates the use of a 
 very small quantity of bicarbonate of potash— 
 a proportion of a quarter of an ounce to every 
 pound of cheese. ‘This addition may be made 
 to almost any dish in cheese cookery, and in this 
 proportion will never be detected. 
 
 The experiment is well worth the attention of 
 those who, liking cheese, are yet unable to as- 
 similate it. 
 
 Cheese Pudding, 
 
 baked or steamed. 
 
 Butter a small pudding mould, half fill it with 
 thin slices of stale bread and butter—no crust— 
 and between each slice make a layer of grated 
 cheese. One beaten egg, half a small teaspoon- 
 ful of mixed salt and pepper, and enough warm 
 milk to fill the mould, mixed together, a pinch 
 of bicarbonate of potash being stirred into this, 
 then the mould filled up. Cover with a plate, 
 and let the pudding stand for at least an hour 
 before cooking it. Bake in gentle oven for 
 half an hour, steam for three-quarters. 
 
SeiaiGhE” “DISHES. 119 
 
 Cheese Fondu. 
 
 Kqual quantities of bread-crumbs and grated 
 cheese, a httle salt and pinch of cayenne, a 
 small nob of butter melted, one or two beaten 
 egos, and milk to make it of the consistency of 
 cream. Bake in shallow buttered dish till crisp 
 and brown. 
 
 Cheese Darioles. 
 
 Make some dariole shapes from good short 
 paste, fill up with the following mixture, and 
 bake in a quick oven till browned. Yolks of 
 two eggs, white of one, a spoonful of melted 
 butter or cream, two spoonfuls of grated cheese, 
 pinch of potash, pepper and salt, mix together. 
 
 Savoury Baked Rice. 
 
 Cree a cupful of whole rice until tender, mix 
 with it half a pint of milk, a beaten egg, pinch 
 of cayenne, and a little salt, and some stale 
 erated cheese of good flavour. Bake this mix- 
 ture until well set in a buttered mould; when 
 done, turn it on to a dish, and surround it with 
 a brown “sauce piquante,” or a tomato purée 
 sharply seasoned. Or it may be served cold 
 with a nicely dressed salad. 
 
120 “ MAIGRE” DISHES. 
 
 Cheese Fricassée. 
 
 Frizzle a sliced Spanish onion in a little but- 
 ter; when brown, add to ita tablespoonful of 
 brown rouw or other brown sauce, sufficient 
 warm water to make it of the right consistency ; 
 season it well. Slice into this some stale Stilton, 
 Cheddar, or other cheese, and let it gradually 
 become very hot, but beware of allowing it to 
 boil. Serve very hot, with toast “ fingers”’ or 
 with boiled cauliflower. 
 
 Cheese Sandwiches. 
 
 Cut some thin slices of bread and butter, 
 brown or white ; cut off allcrust. Spread grated 
 cheese plentifully between, and pepper them 
 well. Cut into small squares, and garnish with 
 fresh watercress or parsley. 
 
 Very nice for luncheon or supper, with celery 
 or watercress. 
 
 Another way : 
 
 Spread cream cheese over the bread in lieu 
 of butter; sprinkle with chopped cress, pepper 
 lightly, and dust with salt. 
 
PMAIGRE” DISHES, Tor 
 
 Cream Cheese Salads. 
 
 Prepare a little dressing first of all by minc- 
 ing together a small shallot, sprigs of chervil, 
 thyme, parsley, tarragon, etc., and adding to 
 them a pinch of salt and pepper, with a table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice and three of salad oil; 
 then mix all well together. Separate the leaves 
 of a crisp, well-hearted lettuce ; in the hollow of 
 each leaf place a little rocky lump of cream 
 cheese. Pour a spoonful of the dressing over, 
 then arrange the leaves singly on a dish. 
 Garnish with red radishes. 
 
 Cheese Omelette. 
 
 Break four eggs on to a plate, add to them a 
 pinch of salt and pepper, and a spoonful of 
 grated cheese; beat up with the blade of a 
 knife. Pour the mixture into the omelette pan, 
 which should contain plenty of frothing butter. 
 Stir it once or twice, when it is set sufficiently, 
 fold one half over, slip it out on to a dish, grate 
 a little more cheese on the top, and serve very 
 hot. If not too stale, the cheese may be sliced, 
 instead of grated. 
 
122 “ MAIGRE” DISHES. 
 
 Mushroom Omelette. 
 
 Remove the skins and stalks from half a 
 dozen mushrooms ; cut them small, add a minced 
 shallot and teaspoonful of parsley, pepper and 
 salt, then cook these together in a little butter. 
 
 Make a plain omelette, lay the cooked mush- 
 rooms ov the one half, and fold over. 
 
 Onion Omelette. 
 
 Slice very thinly, and frizzle with the butter 
 in the omelette pan, two small white onions. 
 When they are brown, pour in the beaten eges 
 and seasoning, and cook as usual. Sprinkle the 
 surface with a little parsley before bringing to 
 table. 
 
 Au Fines Herbes. 
 
 Beat the eges as for plain omelettes, and stir 
 into them chopped chives, parsley, chervil, or 
 any herb available. Season and cook as before 
 directed. 
 
 Omelette au Sucre. 
 
 Beat the yolks separately in one basin, the 
 whites in another; to the yolks add a table- 
 
 spoonful of powdered sugar, pinch of salt, and 
 
“WMAIGRE” DISHES. 123 
 
 one or two spoonfuls of milk; stir in the whites, 
 
 and pour into the frothing butter. When the 
 
 mixture is set, fold it over, sprinkling powdered 
 sugar over the top. 
 
 Omelette au Rhum, 
 
 Make a sweet omelette as above; sugar it 
 freely, and pour a wineglassful of rum or brandy 
 around it, setting fire to the latter before bring- 
 ‘ing to table. 
 
 Oeufs a la Neige. 
 
 ~ 
 
 Boil a pint of milk with a pinch of salt, a few 
 lumps of sugar, and small piece of fresh lemon 
 rind. When it boils remove the rind, and having 
 ready the whites of two or three eggs beaten to 
 a stiff froth, take up the latter by tablespoon- 
 fuls, drop them carefully in the milk, and poach 
 them thus forafew moments. Lift each “ snow- 
 ball’? out on to a dish, and when all are done 
 -pour the beaten yolks into the remainder of the 
 milk, and stir until a thickish custard is formed. 
 When the custard is cool, pour it round the 
 snowballs in the dish, and sprinkle a few can- 
 died cherries about. 
 
 A very pretty dish. 
 
124 “MAIGRE” DISHES. 
 
 Timbale of Macaroni. 
 
 Line a round mould with good short paste ; 
 fill it with the following preparation, and put on 
 the cover, closing the edges with beaten egg, 
 and bake for three-quarters of an hour in 
 moderate oven. Slip it carefully out of the 
 mould, so as not to disturb the shape. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 Filling: Make a “sauce financiére” (see 
 Chapter V.), and stir into it a quarter of a 
 pound of cooked macaroni. 
 
 Or a white sauce may be made instead, the 
 macaroni added, also some grated cheese. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Fricassees and iRechauttees. 
 
 ITHOUT actually coming within the 
 
 range of what may be called “fried” 
 dishes—that is, such as have been treated of 
 under the heading of the ‘‘ Frying-pan’’—there 
 are sometimes occasions arising in the good 
 ménagére’s arrangements for her table when 
 she finds it wise to imitate somewhat the example 
 of “good King Arthur’s” economical spouse, 
 and ‘what they could not eat that day, next 
 day fry,” by warming up in a delicate fashion, 
 akin to frying, it is true, and yet with a degree 
 of difference. 
 
 A fricassée par excellence generally means 
 fricassée of chicken, one which has been par- 
 tially cooked expressly to be used in this man- 
 ner; but although poultry is especially nice, 
 other meats may be made into very savoury 
 dishes in the same way. Many puddings will 
 
 125 
 
126 FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 
 
 also lend themselves to this sort of “ warming 
 wn 
 
 Poultry should be cut up into small joints, 
 and all meat is better if small thick pieces are 
 made of it for a fricassée ; a sauce or batter 1s 
 then made as follows: all trimmings and por- 
 tions not nice enough for the dish are boiled in 
 a little stock with one or two onions, and a few 
 herbs; the fat removed. It is then thickened 
 with a yolk of egg mixed with a little flour. 
 Wach piece of chicken or meat is dipped in this, 
 and then well crumbed over, and carefully 
 fried. 
 
 The remainder of the sauce may be browned, 
 a spoonful of good ketchup added, then poured 
 round the dish of crisp, brown morsels. Some 
 French cooks would fry the pieces in oil sea- 
 soned with garlic, but the above method is 
 more generally practised. Of course this is a 
 superior fricassée. 
 
 For an ordinary family dish a plain batter 
 would do, taking care to crumb over the pieces 
 after they had been dipped in it; and if a 
 few vegetables, such as carrots and parsnips, 
 with small onions, are also fried until just ten- 
 der and lightly browned, then put with the bits 
 of meat and a httle gravy poured round, a very 
 
FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 127 
 appetising dish may be obtained at a little cost. 
 The potatoes which accompany this should also 
 be fried. 
 
 Another nice way, supposing the ménagére 
 has some cold lean beef—not too much cooked 
 —which requires warming up, is to cut it into 
 thin strips and slice some bacon very thinly, 
 laying beef and bacon together; roll them up, 
 fastening with a tiny skewer, and then dip in 
 batter and fry them. A “sauce piquante”’ 
 should be served with the rolls. 
 
 Then, again, meat may be cut into dice, with 
 a little fat bacon, a little cooked vegetable, and 
 chopped onion, and fried in some hot fat in 
 the sauté pan. Let this be lightly tossed about 
 until just brown, remove all superfluous fat and 
 dredge a little flour over all; a cupful.of stock 
 liquor should be poured in and the sauté pan 
 drawn away from the fire, leaving it to cook 
 gently while you make a potato crust, either otf 
 cold mashed potatoes or freshly cooked ones. 
 Mix them with an egg and a little milk to make 
 them smooth, then cover a shallow tin plate 
 about half an inch thick with this crust, crimp 
 the edges and bake until brown, when the con- 
 tents of the sauté pan should be poured into 
 the middle. 
 
128 FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 
 
 Meat, particularly beef and veal, may be 
 “réchauffé ” by making a good thick gravy or 
 sauce and laying in it the meat, cut in thin 
 slices, to simmer gently till hot through without 
 cooking it again. If ham or bacon be added in 
 this case it should be frizzled first, then put on 
 the top when the dish is served. 
 
 Mutton is better made into a ragout. For 
 this a deep pie dish will answer the purpose 
 excellently well—or the daubiére. Potatoes 
 and onions pared and sliced evenly, the mutton 
 (generally cooked) also sliced and each piece 
 dipped into flour; fill the dish with alternate 
 layers of these, then pour over some stock 
 liquor made from bones, and a liberal seasoning 
 of salt and pepper; the dish is then well 
 covered over and put in the oven for an hour 
 and a half. 
 
 If fresh mutton is used for a ragotit, portions 
 of the breast and trimmings will make the dish 
 quite well enough. 
 
 Another way of making a ragotit is to cut the 
 fresh meat into equal sized pieces, flour each one, 
 cut a little salt bacon into strips, and a variety 
 of vegetables also, arranging these ingredients 
 in layers in a covered stewpan, and dredging 
 flour between with salt and pepper; then cover 
 
FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 129 
 
 with water and leave to cook gently in a corner 
 of the oven for some time—about a couple of 
 hours. 
 
 A jfricandeau is similar to the above, only 
 the meat would be left in one piece—a short 
 thick piece is to be preferred, and if lean it 
 may be larded. A shce of fat pork or bacon 
 should cover the bottom of the stewpan; any 
 vegetables may be used for this, and they 
 should be placed around the piece of meat and 
 over it. A cupful of stock poured over all. 
 
 When cooked the meat and vegetables should 
 be lifted on to a dish, the gravy skimmed from 
 all fat, and a little thickening and seasoning 
 added; it should then be allowed to boil a few 
 minutes before pouring over the dish. 
 
 Nearly all fricandeaux are made after this 
 fashion ; salsify, chicory or sorrel, and spinach, 
 are good vegetables to use for this dish. 
 
 Curries are well known in England, but the 
 preparations known as “a la financiére ” may 
 be somewhat novel. 
 
 Various small things go to the composition 
 of a financiére sauce—mushrooms, quenelles, 
 cockscombs, sweetbreads_ sliced, sometimes 
 truffles, giblets, etc.; these are slowly cooked 
 in a rich brown sauce, and a glass of good wine. 
 
 PC. K 
 
130 FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 
 
 This is chiefly used in garnishing entrées and 
 other dishes. Quenelles are small balls made 
 of delicate forcemeat. 
 
 A veal cutlet “a la financiére”’ is cooked as 
 follows: the cutlet is boned, and the lean part 
 larded through with strips of bacon. 
 
 The bottom of a small stewpan is lined 
 with a slice of bacon, sliced carrot, onion, 
 celery, and a bunch of herbs. The cutlet is 
 laid upon these, and sufficient stock poured 
 over to barely touch the meat; it is then 
 covered with a greased paper, and stewed 
 gently until the cutlet is quite tender. 
 
 After lifting out, the gravy is strained, the 
 vegetable crushed into a purée, thickened and 
 browned, a glass of sherry is added, and a good 
 pinch of cayenne, some ketchup and seasoning. 
 This is poured round the cutlet, and served 
 very hot. 
 
 Sweetbreads are very nice, done exactly the 
 same way; always, of course, parboiling them 
 first. 
 
 An excellent and cheap way to réchauffer a 
 very small remainder of cold meat is to mince 
 it finely, add bread-crumbs and a little piquante 
 sauce or gravy sufficient to moisten well. A 
 small vegetable marrow is pared, and the in- 
 
FRICASSEES AND RECHAUFFEES. 131 
 side emptied, and then stuffed with the above 
 mince, a little fat poured over, and then baked 
 in the oven. A large turnip may be used in 
 the same way when marrows are out of season. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Some little used Vegetables. 
 
 HERE are some few vegetables having a 
 
 very extensive use in continental house- 
 holds, which are scarcely ever, if at all, used 
 in England. Yet they are just as easy to culti- 
 vate as any other, and have just as valuable 
 hygienic properties. First among them we 
 must place Sorrel. 
 
 Except among the enlightened few who can 
 boast a patch in their own garden, it 1s almost 
 unknown, and, save at Covent Garden, is 
 scarcely ever seen on the market.. On the 
 Continent it is cultivated in quantities ; no little 
 cottage garden but has its sorrel-bed, and sum- 
 mer or winter it appears on the table in various 
 forms—as a soup, ora purée to eat with meat, 
 or a sauce—and it is frequently mixed with 
 its sister plant, the spinach, when making a 
 
 vegetable dish. 
 122 
 
Pewee tid LE USED VEGETABLES. 133 
 
 Quite lately, when seeking for some in London 
 for use ab a demonstration, nothing less than a 
 “strike ” could be had, and from the Central 
 Market only—at least ten times as much as the 
 quantity required. 
 
 The wild sorrel which one meets with in the 
 country is not a bad substitute, but the flavour 
 of the cultivated kind is so superior, every 
 garden ought to possess a few plants. 
 
 It is sown in drills like spinach; but once 
 established, will come up year after year with 
 faithful regularity, and if cut down every few 
 weeks will yield several cuttings during the 
 season. 
 
 It may also take rank as one of Nature’s 
 medicines, and help to lessen the doctor’s bills, 
 being an anti-scorbutic, simple and effective, 
 an excellent blood-purifier, especially in spring- 
 time. 
 
 Full directions for making sorrel soup are to 
 be found at the end of this chapter; but here 
 it may be well to mention that the only ingre- 
 dients are sorrel and a couple of young onions, 
 white bread, water, butter, and the yolk of an 
 egg, The egg corrects the acidity of the sor- 
 rel, the bread gives substance to the soup, and 
 
134 SOMA LITTLE USED VEGETABLES. 
 
 the butter smoothness. As very little liquid is 
 needed in which to cook sorrel, it is better, 
 when intending to make a purée to serve with 
 meat, to use a little butter in place of water. 
 When thoroughly cooked, the sorrel should be 
 lightly beaten with a wooden spoon, well-sea- 
 soned; then it is ready to serve either in the 
 middle of the dish or to hand round with it. 
 
 A few leaves of sorrel, lightly chopped, 
 give piquancy to a salad. <A few leaves of 
 sorrel may also be added to other vegetable 
 soups, but never when there is any meat in the 
 pot, as their acidity will tend to harden it. 
 
 Leaving the sorrel, let us consider its sister, 
 spinach. Although we have no fault to find 
 either with the growth or the supply of spi- 
 nach, still it is in only a few. better-class 
 houses that one ever meets with the dainty 
 dishes of spinach which are its common forms 
 of presentation on continental tables. 
 
 It is of all green vegetables the most decep- 
 tive, shrinking to but a fraction of its original 
 bulk when cooked. 
 
 It is also one of the dirtiest and grittiest 
 of vegetables, and needs washing in several 
 waters. Let it drain thoroughly, and pick 
 out all stalky pieces. Our French friends go 
 
pom LITTLE USED VEGETABLES. 135 
 farther than this: they think it not too much 
 trouble to shred each leaf. Staying once at a 
 country hotel in France, we were much amused 
 and interested to watch the old grandmother, as 
 she sat in her chair, doing nothing else all day 
 but prepare the vegetables for the table or the 
 kitchen. Verily, we decided, it needed the 
 patience of old age to prepare spinach as she, 
 did it; but truly, when it came to table, it was 
 as nearly perfect as could be. : 
 
 The leaves should be thrown into boiling 
 water, with plenty of salt in it—this keeps 
 them a bright green colour. Boil fast for ten 
 or fifteen minutes, then drain and press till 
 frm and dry. In this state most Hnglish 
 people consider spinach is quite done; French 
 cooks think differently. It is now ready to be 
 manipulated in any form desired. 
 
 For instance, Spinach en Croustades is a 
 pretty way of serving it as a vegetable dish 
 alone, or even as an entrée. ~The croustade is a 
 thick slice of stale white bread, hollowed in the 
 centre, and shaped like a dish with a rim. 
 This is fried to a golden brown in clear fat (if 
 a joint of meat were roasting it might be done 
 in the dripping-tin). 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a small stewpan, 
 
136 SOME LITTLE. USED VEGETAL 
 
 put in the cooked spinach, add a little pepper, 
 heat well through, beat lightly with a fork, 
 then fill the croustades, and chop a little cooked 
 beetroot to garnish the top. 
 
 A purée of spinach with a garnish of poached 
 egos, or anegg boiled hard, then cut into strips, 
 and a few strips of beetroot interspersed to 
 give colour, is a great improvement to the vege- 
 table plainly boiled. Some thin slices of ham 
 frizzled and placed as a border round a purée 
 of spinach, also makes a very nice dish. 
 
 Excellent also is Spinach a la Créme. After 
 melting a small lump of butter in the stewpan, 
 and putting in the spinach to simmer, stir in 
 the beaten yolk of an egg, twopennyworth of 
 cream, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Let it 
 nearly boil, then pour into a rather deep dish, 
 and place fingers of toasted bread round the 
 edge. This is one of the daintiest dishes 
 known. 
 
 It has been mentioned before that French 
 cooks often make a “‘ fond” or foundation to a 
 dish of meat with a purée of spinach or sorrel ; 
 but it must be remembered that no cream or 
 egos should be used then, and less butter, sub- 
 stituting the gravy from the meat instead. 
 
Meet 1 USED VEGETABLES, 137 
 
 Among the lesser known vegetables we may 
 also place watercress. 
 
 It may sound paradoxical to say that no 
 people consume watercress more largely than 
 do Londoners, and yet to call ita little known 
 vegetable ; yet apart from eating it in its natu- 
 ral state, its capabilities are almost unknown. 
 
 Watercress Soup is undreamt of by many 
 people, but it is simple and nourishing, and 
 meets with the approbation of all who try it. 
 As a salad, too, it 1s much appreciated, either 
 alone or with lettuce, and as a sauce to accom- 
 pany roast mutton it is frequently used in 
 French houses. Chopped small and laid be- 
 tween thin slices of bread and butter for sand- 
 wiches, it is getting to be much favoured at the 
 afternoon tea-table. 
 
 Be it remembered, however, that although 
 watercress is most valuable as a medicine, being 
 a gentle stimulant, and strengthening to the 
 nerves, yet from the nature of its growth it 
 requires most careful cleansing, or we may 
 imbibe more harmful properties than we gain 
 good from eating it. 
 
 The expressed juice of fresh watercress taken 
 by a teaspoonful at a time, has been found in- 
 valuable in cases of throat disease. ‘T'he Ger- 
 
138. SOME LITTLE USED VEGETABLES, 
 
 man physician, Haller, said that he had seen 
 patients in deep decline cured by living almost 
 entirely on this plant. 
 
 The best specimens are those with the 
 bronzed leaves. During the winter and early 
 spring is perhaps the best season for water- 
 cress, but they are good and acceptable all the 
 year round. 
 
 Full directions for making the watercress 
 soup will be found at the end of this chapter. 
 
 Watercress sauce 1s made by stewing chopped 
 watercress in butter for ten minutes, then add- 
 ing a pinch of salt, the same of pepper, the 
 same also of mustard, and a spoonful of vin- 
 egar. Beat till quite smooth with a wooden 
 spoon, then add the gravy from the roasting 
 joint. This is served in a sauce-tureen, and is 
 a pleasant change from ordinary gravy. 
 
 Almost all the dishes mentioned might come 
 
 under the category of kitchen-physic,—for one 
 
 of the first essentials in sickroom diet is to 
 please the eye as well as the palate. 
 
 Sorrel Soup (Potage a VOseille). 
 Having carefully washed two large handfuls 
 of sorrel, dry it, then chop it finely. Chop 
 also a medium-sized spring onion. Melt an 
 
Beer i/ITE USED VEGETABLES, 139 
 
 ounce of butter, stew the onion and sorrel in 
 this (in a covered stewpan) for about half an 
 hour. Meanwhile, bring a quart of water to 
 boiling point in the soup-pot, throw into it a 
 shee of stale white bread cut into dice (no 
 crust), and let it boil till the sorrel is ready. 
 Add that next, then a teaspoonful of salt, half 
 one of pepper, and the beaten yolks of two 
 egos. Let all boil up once, then pour into the 
 tureen. <A pinch of dried herbs or just one 
 grate of nutmeg may be added then. 
 
 Watercress Soup. 
 
 The foundation of this soup is best made 
 from a purée of haricot beans. They should 
 have been soaked overnight, then boiled for 
 two or three hours, or until they will rub 
 through a sieve. Chop the watercress, and 
 cook it in butter with an onion also chopped, 
 as the sorrel was done. Add enough boiling 
 water to the haricot purée to bring it down to 
 the consistency of cream; then stir in the 
 watercress, etc., and any other green herb you 
 may possess. Just before serving stir in a 
 tablespoonful of cream, and salt and pepper to 
 season it well. <A pint of haricots should be 
 sufficient for a quart of good soup. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DLeeks and Onions. 
 
 LTHOUGH some attention has been paid 
 
 to the uses of leeks and onions in the pre- 
 vious chapters, yet for their great medicinal 
 and useful properties they merit more particular 
 study. 
 
 The wonderful faculty which onions possess 
 of absorbing disease germs ought to be written 
 in letters of gold before the eyes of every 
 householder. Merely hanging in a net they will 
 purify an apartment, and a string of onions sus- 
 pended from the ceiling preserved the inmates 
 of a whole cottage from being attacked by 
 cholera, when the scourge was devastating the 
 whole of the neighbourhood. 
 
 Especially in cases of that fell disease diph- 
 theria have they great power. A dish of raw 
 onions sliced and set in the sick-room, will draw 
 
 away the disease and give ease to the sufferer ; 
 
 140 
 
LEEKS AND ONIONS, 141 
 as their odour gives out they should be replaced 
 by fresh ones. Poison of any kind will discolour 
 an onion. If one be placed in a dish of mush- 
 rooms about whose orthodoxy there is felt the 
 slightest doubt, the suspicion may be quickly 
 removed or proved thereby, as the onion will 
 turn black if they are unwholesome. 
 
 They are a stimulant also, rousing and aid- 
 ing digestion. 
 
 Many persons who complain of onions being 
 difficult of digestion would find the objection 
 removed —or considerably lessened —if they 
 were cooked thus: cooking them quickly at the 
 first start, then drawing aside and covering well, 
 allow them to simmer gently for some time; 
 this draws out the juice, which can be poured 
 off. If treated thus, they will hardly disagree 
 with the most fastidious. 
 
 To confess to a liking for onions is—sad to 
 say—considered vulgar, but our French friends 
 are notable as proclaiming their weakness for 
 both onions and garlic by the scent they carry 
 about with them. 
 
 Although certainly related to onions leeks are 
 not the same, nor even similar. They are more 
 prized in Wales and Scotland than in England, 
 and are very highly esteemed in France, where 
 
142 LEEKS AND ONIONS. 
 
 they are used as a vegetable alone, and never 
 upon any account are tliey omitted from the 
 potagére. 
 
 They have a direct action upon the liver, and 
 in cases of liver complaints (very often also for 
 rheumatism) they are ordered by the doctor, 
 either in the form of a tea or tisane, or asa 
 poultice. 
 
 The ‘tea’? made by boiling leeks in water 
 may be made very much more palatable for an 
 invalid if a teaspoonful of Bovril or Liebig’s 
 Extract be dissolved in each cupful. <A hberal 
 seasoning of salt and pepper also helps both 
 taste and tonic. 
 
 For broth from beef or mutton it is better to 
 tie the leeks together in bunches, and serve 
 them thus among the other vegetables round 
 the dish,—or, better still, if there be any quan- 
 tity of them, to serve them separately in a vege- 
 table dish, pouring white sauce over them ; they 
 are both wholesome and delicious if treated 
 thus. 
 
 During the winter months they should be kept 
 covered with fresh earth. 
 
 A poultice of fresh-boiled leeks laid between 
 flannel is a remedy which certainly comes under 
 the category of kitchen physic. It is a remedy, 
 
LEEKS AND ONIONS. 143 
 
 however, much trusted by continental doctors 
 for any inflammation of the liver or kidneys, 
 and has the power of quickly bringing out 
 copious perspiration. 
 
 The mild flavour of leeks makes them much 
 preferred in nearly all soups—they combine 
 with other flavours, but will not overpower, as 
 the onion too frequently does. 
 
 Both leeks and onions make excellent soups ; 
 if a little clear broth is at hand to use instead 
 of water, of course the soup will be richer for 
 it; bread forms the thickening quality—a slice 
 of white bread cut into dice and thrown into the 
 boiling liquor a few minutes before serving it. 
 
 There is a very simple soup known as “ drunk- 
 ard’s broth,’ made by boiling sliced onions in 
 water, which is said to be very valuable and 
 grateful to persons recovering from intoxica- 
 tion. 
 
 A pinch of mixed sweet herbs is a great 
 addition to leek or onion soup. 
 
 A large white onion, with the core removed 
 and its place filled with a savoury stuffing, then 
 placed in a covered stewpan with a little drip- 
 ping, cooked in the oven for an hour, and a little 
 thick brown gravy poured over it on the dish, 
 
144 LEEKS AND ONIONS. 
 
 makes a very savoury and economical little 
 “lat”? for a cold winter’s evening. The stuff- 
 ing may be made from any cold meat, minced, 
 and mixed with sharp sauce. — 
 
 Large white onions, boiled till tender, then 
 drained, sliced thinly into a shallow tin, a few 
 nobs of butter placed over them, a hberal pow- 
 dering of pepper and salt, then some stale 
 cheese shaved as thinly as possible, and a few 
 bread-crumbs sprinkled over all, placed in a 
 quick oven for ten minutes, makes another cheap 
 savoury. 
 
 A smal] onion may be introduced with advan- 
 tage into many preparations of meat, fish, 
 poultry, etc., where its presence is not needful 
 nor perhaps desired, because it will help to 
 bring out the flavour of the other condiments, 
 and if sufficiently small, itself pass unnoticed. 
 
 For sauces and fine dishes French cooks much 
 prefer to use shallots, their flavour is more deli- 
 cate. <A clove of garlic, too, although a hking 
 for its searching aroma certainly has to be ac- 
 quired, is yet most suited for use in many made- 
 up dishes. 
 
 If the salad-bowl be rubbed all over inside’ 
 with garlic, before breaking the lettuce or cress 
 
LEEKS AND ONIONS. 146 
 
 into it, it not only obviates the necessity of 
 using any onion in the dressing, but gives a 
 piquant, elusive flavouring as difficult to “ fix” 
 - as delicious to taste. 
 
 Chives, too, belong to the onion family. They 
 are worthy of much more popular use and culti- 
 vation than they can boast at present: the root 
 is bulbous, and grows up early in the spring, 
 ready prepared for the “omelettes au fines 
 herbes,”’ the soupe or salade “ printanier” ; and 
 for an addition to forcemeat or stuffing they are 
 unrivalled. 
 
 Thus we see that useful and valuable as onions 
 are they cannot well do everything, as in this 
 country they are unfortunately generally ex- 
 pected to. 
 
 In many greengrocers’ shops,—large ones too 
 —and on the costers’ stalls in the street, leeks 
 are a rarity, and always expensive; shallots 
 still rarer, garlic and chivesunknown. LEvenin 
 the country they are seen in but few gardens; 
 and it is no uncommon thing to be asked what 
 is their use. This is a state of affairs which 
 needs remedying; we are conservative to our 
 own loss, and, asa nation, remarkably slow to 
 learn, or add to our knowledge. 
 
 tes L 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 ROM being one of the least known and 
 most expensive vegetables, tomatoes have 
 become very common and plentiful, bought and 
 eaten on the streets as freely as cherries or 
 apples, and used in the kitchen almost as much 
 as we can desire. 
 
 Perhaps never better or more beneficial than 
 when eaten raw, still, to be really nice thus, they 
 ought to be freshly-gathered from the plant; 
 and few persons are able to do this. 
 
 Next to eating them raw we may rank eating 
 them “ marinées,” or “en salade,”’ viz., slicing — 
 them in a dish, and dressing with salt and 
 pepper, vinegar and oil. In Parisian restaurants 
 they are served thus all the summer through, 
 and very refreshing and acceptable they are. 
 
 A small onion sliced with them is an agreeable 
 146 
 
TOMATOES. 147 
 
 addition. They are even better than cucumbers 
 if dressed in this manner and served with cold 
 meats. 
 
 A purée of tomatoes may be made exactly in 
 the same way as the purée of sorrel or spinach, 
 and served with hot meat. With veal, poultry, 
 sweetbreads, mutton cutlets, or pigeons halved 
 and done on the grill, a purée of tomatoes, 
 highly seasoned and made fairly thick, is a great 
 addition to the dish. : | 
 
 The same purée is invaluable as an aid in 
 using up the remains of cold meat. The latter 
 may be merely sliced and laid in the purée to 
 become hot through, or the slices may be 
 lightly frizzled first. 
 
 In winter the tinned tomatoes will answer the 
 purpose excellently well, therefore it is well to 
 have them in reserve: an un-appetising dish of 
 cold meat may be quickly transformed into a 
 delicious savoury by their aid at very short 
 notice. An edging of well-boiled rice is a 
 pretty finish to the dish. | 
 
 Plenty of seasoning—especially pepper— 
 should be used with tomatoes, a pinch of cayenne 
 is an advantage. 
 
148 TOMATOES. 
 
 Tomato Soup 
 
 is one of the most delicious and most easily 
 prepared. For this, slice the tomatoes into a 
 little melted butter in a deep stewpan; let them 
 cook gently at least half an hour, and meanwhile 
 cut up a carrot into rounds an eighth of an 
 inch in thickness, also slice an onion thinly, and 
 frizzle these till tender through in a separate 
 vessel. Next strain the tomatoes through a 
 sieve to keep out skins and seeds, return the 
 pulp to the stewpan, add boiling water to make 
 sufficient quantity ; mix a dessert-spoonful of 
 potato flour with a little cold water, and stir 
 this in, then add salt, pepper, and pinch of cay-+ 
 enne, according to taste; let the soup boil up 
 once, then stir in the carrots and onion. It 
 may simmer gently for a time, or be served at 
 once, as is required. A few fried croutons of 
 bread should be put at the bottom of the tureen. 
 This soup should be very hot and piquant. 
 
 With the same purée of tomatoes before men-. 
 tioned as a foundation, we may, with little 
 trouble, make a truly vegetarian dish, and one 
 which is very pretty to look at. After making 
 the purée smooth, thick, and savoury, pour it 
 
TOMATOES. 149 
 into a fancy dish, and keep hot while the “snow- 
 balls”? are made. Boil a pint of milk with a 
 pinch of salt; beat to a stiff froth the whites 
 
 of two eggs also with a pinch of salt, then drop 
 this snow by small spoonfuls into the boiling 
 milk; they will swell out, and take but a few 
 moments to cook. Lift them carefully out, let 
 all the milk drain from them, then set on the 
 red purée, and put a sprig of green parsley in 
 the centre of each. 
 This is called ‘ Snowballs in Tomatoes,” and 
 is avery effective dish. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes 
 
 “are great favourites with many people. The 
 tomatoes used in this way should be of a fair 
 size. Remove the core and a small portion of 
 the inside, then fill up with forcemeat, sausage- 
 meat, or any nice mince well seasoned. Place 
 them in a well buttered baking-tin, sprinkle a 
 
 _ few bread raspings over the top of each, then 
 bake for ten or fifteen minutes, but do not allow 
 the tomatoes to fall. 
 
 Tomatoes are very good if simply baked with 
 a little butter, and salt and pepper, but if done 
 au gratin they are better still. 
 
150 TOMATOES. 
 
 After buttering the bottom of the dish, sprin- 
 kle upon it a few bread-crumbs, finely chopped 
 parsley, and chives or shallot, then the tomatoes 
 —the core removed—and cover with the same 
 ingredients, having a few more bits of butter 
 for the top of all. Bake for twenty minutes. 
 
 Again, with a dish of cauliflower and maca- 
 roni, if dressed in the usual manner, and a purée 
 of tomatoes used in place of white sauce, the 
 change would be found very acceptable. 
 
 A sliced tomato is a great improvement to 
 any salad, and the smaller ones should always 
 be set on one side for decorative purposes. In 
 a cool place they will keep for some time. 
 
 For a cold dish, and a very refreshing one, a 
 Tomato Mayonnaise is excellent. 
 
 If possible, skin the tomatoes, cut them in 
 half, set them in a glass dish, and put on the ice 
 or in a very cold place for half an hour. Make 
 the mayonnaise with the yolks of two hard- 
 boiled eggs and a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
 beaten together to a cream, a pinch of salt 
 and a teaspoonful of made mustard with a 
 pinch of cayenne. Add by degrees a table- 
 spoonful of olive oil. Spread a little of this 
 
TOMATOES. I51 
 
 mayonnaise over each half tomato, let it cool 
 still longer, and before bringing to table place 
 tiny pieces of ice amongst them in the dish. 
 
 A Conserve of Tomatoes 
 
 to keep in small jars or pots is very useful for 
 making savoury sandwiches for afternoon tea- 
 parties. ‘To three pounds of tomatoes allow one 
 pound of loaf sugar, an ounce of ground ginger, 
 a pinch of cayenne, a teaspoonful of salt, the 
 peel and juice of two lemons. Boil the tomatoes 
 first for twenty minutes, then rub them through 
 a sieve; boil next the pulp with the other in- 
 eredients for twenty minutes after they have 
 come to boiling point. ‘Take out the peel of the 
 lemon, pour the mixture into jars, and cover 
 tightly when quite cold. Keep in a cool, dry 
 place. 
 
 It is difficult to bottle or can tomatoes at home. 
 For those who are able to procure the right 
 sort of bottles—with good screw-tops—and who 
 have a large quantity of tomatoes to use, it 
 should be remembered that the secret of keep- 
 ing well depends upon the care of the cook 
 in haying the bottles heated until they can 
 scarcely be touched, the tomatoes boiling hot 
 
152 TOMATOES. 
 
 when they are put in, and screwing down the 
 tops at once, before any heat can have evapo- 
 rated. The tomatoes should be brought to 
 boiling-point in salted water, and drained before 
 they have time to break. 
 
 Tomatoes form an excellent addition to an 
 omelette. They should be cut into quarters, and 
 slightly sprinkled with pepper, then frizzled in 
 the butter before the eggs are added. 
 
 The applications and uses of this valuable 
 vegetable-fruit, and the combinations which a 
 clever cook may produce by its aid, are very 
 numerous, indeed well-nigh endless, 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Mushrooms, 
 
 N town mushrooms rank as do tomatoes 
 amongst the additional luxuries of the 
 table ; but in the country, where in their season 
 they are to be had for the gathering, they form 
 one of the poor man’s few delicacies. Most 
 people recognise only two distinct classes of 
 them, viz., mushrooms and toadstools, and, 
 through ignorance, many excellent varieties are 
 passed by as unfit for food. The late Dr. Lan- 
 kester, an eminent authority on foods of all 
 kinds, enumerates no less than forly different 
 species of mushrooms, all of which are good to 
 eat. 
 Chanterelles are much esteemed in France, 
 while the delicate morel is there much more 
 frequently met with than in England; although 
 
 if sought for at the beginning of summer it 
 153 
 
154 | MUSHROOMS. 
 
 may sometimes be found in our orchards and 
 woods. 
 
 Another good authority on foods says: “‘ Have 
 nothing at all to do with them, until you are an 
 excellent judge between the true and the false.” 
 This advice resembles that of the mother who 
 cautioned her son not to venture near the water 
 until he had learned how to swim! 
 
 Although we can scarcely be too cautious in 
 our use of all fungi, still, as they are an excel- 
 lent and delicious article of diet, when good, we 
 need not be martyrs to our fears. 
 
 A peeled white onion thrown into the pot 
 while they are cooking will speedily confirm or 
 dispel any fears which may be entertained about 
 them, so also will a silver spoon, for if poison 
 lurks within the vessel it will quickly turn the 
 silver black. 
 
 It is chiefly the people who live in the country, 
 and have the good fortune to gather for them- 
 selves, who have much need to exercise caution ; 
 in town we are mostly supplied with mushrooms 
 crown from spawn in mushroom honsesor frames, 
 and have little to fear. On the other hand, 
 country people have full benefit of the flavour 
 
MUSHROOMS. rss 
 
 and succulence of a freshly-gathered mushroom 
 which it is difficult to surpass. The best mush- 
 rooms are most plentiful in August and Septem- 
 ber; they grow in open sunny fields after 
 low-lying fogs or heavy dews. The upper 
 surface is a dirty white, par complaisance pearl 
 colour, and the under surface salmon or light- 
 brown in colour. They should emit a faint 
 wholesome smell. ‘The Scripture says of the 
 slothful man that “ he roasteth not what he took 
 in hunting.” The same reproach may be ap- 
 plied to those who neglect or despise the good 
 gifts which Providence places within their reach. 
 A plentiful crop of mushrooms brings many 
 additional pounds into the pockets of the in- 
 habitants of some localities. 
 
 For the benefit of those who have the good 
 fortune to possess or meet with a plentiful supply 
 a hint as to their preservation for winter use may 
 prove acceptable. 
 
 They must be taken, while perfectly fresh, 
 and skinned, removing the stalk also,—then laid 
 on thick white paper, not touching each other, 
 and dried in a very slow oven. They should 
 take several hours, and when quite dry should 
 be threaded on a fine string and hung up ina 
 
156 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 dry place. They will shrink considerably, but 
 only require to be placed in cold gravy or 
 liquor, then warmed up, to swell out to their 
 original size. 
 
 Mushrooms a la Provengale is a way of treat- 
 ing them which is very popular in the South of 
 France. 
 
 Ina small, shallow frying- or sauté-pan place 
 sufficient salad-oil tocover the bottom tothe depth 
 of a quarter of an inch. Let the oil come to boil- 
 ing point, then slice into it a small white onion, 
 add a tablespoonful of finely minced and dry 
 parsley. Next put in the mushrooms—small flat 
 ones are preferable—the skin and stalk removed ; 
 sauté them for five minutes, then pour off about 
 half the oil, dust flour over the mushrooms, 
 sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a dash of 
 vinegar, toss them well about for a minute longer, 
 then serve over fried croutons, or crisp thin 
 toast. | 
 
 For mushrooms @ la Poulette, pick out the 
 small white or button ones. After removing 
 peel and stalk, drop them into boiling salt and 
 water, and cook till just tender through. Drain 
 on acloth, then place in a shallow dish and 
 cover with the following sauce: an ounce of 
 butter melted, and the same quantity of fine 
 
MUSHROOMS. 157 
 
 dry flour mixed smoothly with it, or half the 
 quantity of potato flour, a pinch of salt, and a 
 tumblerful of boiling water; boil this well, then 
 draw aside and stir in the yolk of an egg and 
 two spoonfuls of cream. Pour this sauce over 
 the mushrooms, and garnish the dish with 
 
 parsley. 
 Mushrooms au Gratin are one of the most 
 favoured entreés at grand banquets, — so 
 
 favoured indeed that it is generally found neces- 
 sary to provide twice the quantity of this dish 
 in proportion to that of any other entrée. 
 
 They are prepared exactly in the following 
 method. A gratin dish is covered at the bottom 
 with an ounce of butter broken into bits, finely 
 minced chives, chervil and parsley are sprinkled 
 on to this, then a few bread-crumbs; next the 
 peeled mushrooms, stalks uppermost, the bread- 
 crumbs and herbs sprinkled over, with half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and a glassful of white 
 wine poured over them, and more melted butter 
 last of all, Baked in the oven for twenty 
 minutes, then brought to table in the same 
 dish. 
 
 Large flap mushrooms are very delicious if 
 steeped in a “marinade” of salad oil, minced 
 
158 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 herbs and onion, then drained, sprinkled with 
 pepper and salt, and grilled quickly over a clear 
 fire, first on one side, then on the other, for 
 three or four minutes. One of these, served on 
 a piece of crisp toast, might tempt the appetite 
 of the most fastidious. The deep cup-shaped 
 ones filled with a force-meat stuffing, then baked 
 in a dripping-tin and served in pretty paper 
 cases, make another nice entrée. 
 
 Mushroom Omelette 
 
 is a delicacy which needs but to be tried to 
 establish its reputation for ever. Whatever 
 size or shape they be, the mushrooms must be 
 peeled and cut into strips, then frizzled till 
 tender ina little butter, dust them with flour 
 to slightly thicken the juice, and sprinkle liber- 
 ally with salt and pepper. Make the omelette 
 in its own pan, according to the directions pre- 
 viously given; slide it on toa hot dish, cover 
 half of it with the mushrooms, then fold over 
 the other half, thus securing the brown side for 
 the upper surface. 
 
 For Mushroom Ketchup, than which there is no 
 more useful ketchup for kitchen use, the follow- 
 
 Pa 
 
MUSHROOMS. 159 
 
 ing is an excellent recipe. All broken mush- 
 rooms, parings and stalks (if clean), should be 
 placed in a shallow earthen vessel and well 
 covered with salt. Let them stand for three 
 days, stirring occasionally. ‘Then draw off the 
 juice, and to every pint allow half a teaspoonful 
 of ginger, the same of powdered mace, allspice, 
 and cayenne. Put in a stone jar, set ina pan 
 of water, boil hard for six hours, pour into 
 bottles when cool. 
 
CHAPTER XY. 
 
 Fruit “en Salade” and “Glace.” 
 
 FRUIT Salad is most certainly an almost 
 
 unknown delicacy on English tables. Itis 
 most frequently met with in Parisian and 
 Viennese restaurants, where the most critical 
 gourmets do congregate. 
 
 Perhaps at its best when made with the wild 
 wood-strawberries, plentiful enough in the 
 woods about Paris, it is also exceedingly good 
 made with the smaller kinds of cultivated 
 strawberries, with raspberries, or raspberries 
 and fine ripe currants, with sliced apricots and 
 peaches, pineapples, and oranges. 
 
 Next to a salad of wild strawberries, one of 
 oranges, with a sprinkling of ground almonds, 
 walnuts and grated cocoanut, must take the 
 place of honour. 
 
 The sine qua non of a successful salad is that 
 160 
 
FRUIT “EN SALADE” AND “GLACE.” 161 
 
 its components should be dry before the dress- 
 ing is added to them, whether the salad be 
 composed of a vegetable or fruit. 
 
 Next to dryness, we must insist upon perfect 
 ripeness when fruit is in question. Hard or un- 
 ripe morsels will spoil any dish. 
 
 A crystal salad-bowl, or failing that, a deep 
 compote dish, is best for the purpose. 
 
 Pure white castor sugar, and wine suited to 
 the kind of fruit used, forms the “ dressing.” 
 This should be poured over the fruit at least an 
 hour before it is brought to table. 
 
 In the case of wild strawberries, plenty of 
 sugar and a little good Claret is used, but for 
 garden strawberries Port is preferable to Claret. 
 
 With apricots, pineapple, or peaches, use a 
 heht sweet wine, like Sherry or Madeira; and 
 for an orange salad a raisin wine (Muscatel) is 
 best suited. 
 
 For a pound of fruit allow four outces of 
 sugar, and half a pint of wine. Turn the fruit 
 over occasionally after the dressing has been 
 added, that it may absorb it thoroughly. 
 
 Oranges should have all the peel removed, 
 especially all the white part, divide them in 
 their natural divisions and press the pips out. 
 
 P.C M 
 
162 FRUIT “EN SALADE” AND “GLACE.” 
 Skin the walnuts and pound them, the almonds 
 likewise, grate the cocoanut. 
 
 A tablespoonful of liqueur, say Prunelle or 
 Kummel, will be an improvement to any fruit 
 salad. 
 
 Very ripe blackberries, with a little less sugar, 
 and Port wine or Roussillon, or instead a small 
 tumblerful of Blackberry Cordial and a table- 
 spoonful of Brandy, makes a very wholesome 
 dessert dish. 
 
 Fruit may be kept fresh for a length of time 
 by putting it into stone jars and covering with 
 a mixture of honey and water. When required 
 for use, take them out, wash in clean water, and 
 they will be almost as good as freshly-gathered. 
 
 A very easy way of candying fresh fruit such 
 as ripe currants in bunches, grapes, etc., is done 
 by taking them by the stalk, dipping into a 
 tumbler containing water and the white of an 
 ego, then rolling them in fine castor sugar and 
 laying on sheets of note paper to dry, either in 
 
 the sun or in a cool oven. 
 
 To candy fruit properly, however, is a much 
 more serious process. 
 
FRUIT “EN SALADE” AND “GLACE.” 163 
 
 A syrup of boiling sugar, boiled to the fourth 
 or “ candied ”’ degree, that is for at least half 
 an hour, is the first essential. 
 
 Place the sugar,—finest loaf—in an enamelled 
 saucepan ; to half a pound of sugar allow half 
 a tumblerful of water. Boil until the syrup 
 is so stiff it will crack if drawn out into 
 threads. | 
 
 Supposing you are candying some quarters 
 of oranges; after taking out the pips, thread 
 them on a fine string, and passing the string 
 over a hook hold them in the boiling syrup for 
 half a minute. Then suspend them to drain 
 and dry. 
 
 Greengages, apricots, cherries, etc., require 
 to remain in the syrup a little longer, that they 
 may be cooked through, then they may be 
 rolled in powdered sugar, and dried in a cool 
 oven. 
 
 Fine scarlet rhubarb cut in strips of two or 
 three inches in length, dropped into this syrup 
 for a few moments, then drained and “ frosted,’’ 
 makes a pretty sweetmeat. 
 
 It is by no means impossible for the amateur 
 cook to turn out avery pretty dish of glazed 
 fruits for an extra occasion, if needs be, 
 although as glacé fruit can be bought so reason- 
 
164 FRUIT “EN SALADE” AND “GLACE.” 
 
 ably now, few amateurs care to attempt the 
 process. 
 
 “‘ Marrons glacés,” the favourite sweetmeat 
 of the few who are able to indulge their liking, 
 are made in this wise (n.b. the same process 1s 
 employed for ‘‘ Chinois glacés,”’ or Chinese green- 
 gages, and for crystallized figs): The chest- 
 nuts are boiled in water until they are quite 
 cooked, then carefully peeled and thrown into 
 cold water to become hard again. In half an 
 hour’s time they are placed in boiling syrup, the 
 which has been boiled till quite stiff. The vessel 
 containing them is then set on one side. The 
 next day the syrup (and chestnuts) is brought 
 to boiling point, then put aside to cool again. 
 This process is repeated four days in succession; 
 at the end of the time the chestnuts or fruit 
 will be found to have absorbed nearly all the 
 syrup, and must then be lifted out on to dishes, 
 and dried off. 
 
 The process of preserving fruit by evaporation 
 is best performed by means of the mechanical 
 “ evaporators”? when possible to obtain these 
 machines; still, by carefully drying in a cool 
 oven (a brick oven is best for the purpose), much 
 valuable fruit might be saved for winter use 
 
Roll AN SALADE" AND “GLACE 165 
 
 which is often left to rot on the trees because it 
 will not pay for gathering and turning into 
 preserve. 
 
 Only sound fruit should be dried, and it should 
 be gathered on a dry day, laid out separately on 
 sheets of paper or tins, and dried in the oven 
 when the fire has become low. It will require 
 soaking in water before using. 
 
 A word of caution as to the kind of sugar 
 which should be used with fruit, will not be out 
 of place here. 
 
 Beet sugars, because of the impossibility of 
 ensuring their perfect dryness, however highly 
 refined, should be avoided; also because they 
 absorb moisture easily and so cause fermentation. 
 For all syrups, jams, jellies, etc., use only pure 
 cane sugar ; although slightly more expensive it 
 well repays in the end. 
 
 Boiling sugar quickly passes from one degree 
 to another, and in preserving it is important to 
 remember this fact and not add the sugar until 
 the fruit has been first well cooked. 
 
 It is the fruit that requires cooking, and not 
 the sugar. 
 
 It is a great improvement to jellies to first 
 
166 FRUIT “EN SALADE” AND “GLACE.” 
 
 heat the sugar in shallow vessels in the oven, 
 before putting into the juice; it should be so 
 hot the hand can scarcely touch it. Put into 
 the juice when that has boiled for twenty 
 minutes, boil up once more after the sugar is 
 dissolved, then pour into hof jars at once. It 
 will quickly jelly, and be a better colour than if 
 made after the old method, besides retaining 
 better the flavour of the fruit. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Entrees and Entremets. 
 
 va large variety of dishes may be classed 
 
 under the above title, and it is in the pre- 
 paration of these dishes almost more than in 
 those of any other class that the really experi- 
 enced cook will best exercise the true principle 
 of cookery-economy. 
 
 As a rule the entrée is served before the 
 joint; the entremet follows it. 
 
 No Parisian “little dinner” would be con- 
 sidered complete without one entrée at least ; 
 and although it may seem a strong statement 
 to make, it is certainly true, that the materials 
 out of which many of the most tempting of 
 these entrées are made are those which in Eng- 
 lish hotels and even in private houses would 
 be thrown to the dogs, or into the fowl-pen. 
 
 it is important to strive as far as possible to 
 167 
 
 b) 
 
168 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 make entrées the means of utilising any remains 
 which may be left. A nice variety can be made 
 in this way only. 
 
 Another important point to observe is the 
 appearance of the entrée. This class of dishes 
 may be regarded as one of the higher branches 
 of the profession, and had better not be at- 
 tempted by the apprentice. One very common 
 mistake made by inexperienced cooks in sery- 
 ing entrées is putting too much on one dish. 
 “Tittle and good” is an excellent maxim to 
 follow. 
 
 It is very desirable to have certain things 
 at hand in readiness when making entrées, or 
 indeed any other class of savoury dishes; viz., 
 aromatic spices, dried herbs, and a little stock 
 of sauces and seasonings. _ 
 
 Once these are set up in the kitchen itis easy 
 to keep them renewed, and they prove invaluable 
 on many occasions, well repaying what little 
 trouble their preparation entails. , 
 
 An excellent aromatic preparation is made as 
 follows:—take equal quantities, say half an 
 ounce, of mace, nutmeg, cloves, marjoram, 
 thyme, basil, and bay leaves, a whole ounce of 
 peppercorns. Have all these thoroughly dried, 
 and pounded, and sifted, and put in a glass- 
 
ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 169 
 
 stoppered bottle for use. ‘This will keep good 
 for years. The preparation of herbs has been 
 described in a previous chapter. 
 
 It is not so much a question of expense in 
 the preparation of entrées as of management. 
 
 A good cook will never be embarrassed by 
 having too much cold meat on hand while she 
 has entrées to provide for. By a little skill she 
 will be able to turn out the most charming 
 dishes ; even a small piece of the loin of mutton 
 may be served half a dozen different ways. 
 
 One of the most commonly known of entrée 
 dishes is perhaps “‘croquettes” or ‘ krome- 
 skies,” and yet how rarely are they nicely made 
 and served. 
 
 The secret, or rather the principle, to be ob- 
 served in making these is the same as in boiling 
 or roasting meat; viz.,to form a crust on the 
 outside to retain the moisture and juices within. 
 It is generally admitted that these are far 
 nicer when the inside is moist and juicy, instead 
 of hard. A good way to ensure their being so 
 is to moisten the mince with gravy made from 
 bones, which will jelly when it is cold. 
 
 The mince may then be made quite thin, and 
 allowed to get quite cold before being shaped 
 into little balls or cutlets, and then twice coated 
 
170 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 with ege and bread-crumbs, and dropped into 
 boiling fat. The croquettes are thus surrounded 
 with a crust, and if carefully lifted out the 
 moment they are sufficiently cooked, the inside 
 gravy will be preserved. 
 
 It may almost be taken as a criterion of the 
 skill of the cook when as soon as the fork of 
 the eater is inserted into the ball the inside 
 gushes out, as it certainly requires some prac- 
 tice to attain to this. | 
 
 Almost any kind of cold meat may be made 
 into entrées, but cold remains of poultry, or 
 calf’s head, or game may be made to look 
 very appetising if cut small, nicely shaped, and 
 then each piece slightly floured and dipped 
 into good batter, when they should be fried a 
 beautiful golden colour. 
 
 They will look like fritters, and should be 
 lightly piled on a silver dish if possible, and 
 garnished with parsley. 
 
 _ Another way of using up these remains is to 
 make a “salmi.” ‘To do this, the pieces of 
 meat should be sliced thinly and all trimmings 
 and bones be stewed to make sauce. The 
 liquor, when they have cooked long enough, 
 should be strained and slightly thickened, then 
 liberally seasoned and a glass of good wine 
 
ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 171 
 added to it; Madeira is the most suitable, 
 though sherry will do. The pieces of meat 
 have simply to be warmed up in this sauce. 
 
 When making a “hash” from cold meat 
 it is always preferable to make the sauce or 
 eravy first, then add the minced meat, and 
 allow it tosimmer only for a few minutes before 
 ‘serving. When made of fresh meat the hash 
 will be found to be much richer and more 
 tender if cooked in the oven slowly. 
 
 A nice little dish of hash, with two or three 
 delicately poached eges laid upon it, and some 
 slender strips of toasted bread round the edge, 
 and a little finely chopped parsley sprinkled 
 over all, will be found to make a very pretty 
 and economical entremet. 
 
 ““Tomates farcis” is another economical 
 entremet. Smooth, round tomatoes not over 
 ripe should be chosen, and a small piece be 
 cut out of the middle, and a little of the inside 
 removed ; its place should be filled with a little 
 forcemeat, or sausage meat alone will do very 
 nicely. Place the tomatoes in a tin with small 
 bits of butter, to bake gently until tender 
 through. 
 
 Nice kidney potatoes may be treated in the 
 
172 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS 
 
 same way, and will be found very excellent 
 also. 
 
 Kees “a la bonne femme” make another 
 pretty entrée. Take six large eggs, boil them 
 ten minutes, when cool enough carefully re- 
 move the shells, and with a sharp knife split 
 them in half; remove the yolk from each half 
 and the tip of the point, so that they may 
 stand firmly. With the yolk mix a little finely 
 minced ham and beetroot or boiled chicken, a 
 little drop of some piquante sauce, and then 
 fill up the hollows, piling the mixture a little 
 higher. Place the eggs on a bed of curly let- 
 tuce or parsley. 
 
 Omelets and vol-au-vents are served as 
 entrée dishes. The latter, although properly 
 belonging to the confectioner’s profession, and 
 generally considered to be quite beyond the 
 skill of the home cook, may yet be fairly well 
 imitated for any extra occasion. 
 
 The exterior or crust is made of the very 
 finest puff paste moulded into the required 
 shape, and the interior hollow is preserved 
 while the crust is cooking by filling it with soft 
 bread ; the upper crust is laid over the bread, 
 but the edges are kept from sticking to the 
 sides. 
 
ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 173 
 
 When the crust is baked the bread is re- 
 moved and the proper filling takes its place, 
 then the upper crust is laid over and glazed 
 with white of egg. ‘This filling may be varied 
 according to fancy—a financiére ragott, sweet- 
 breads, oysters, lobsters, shrimps, etc. When 
 fish is used, the top of the vol-au-vent should 
 be ornamented with the same or similar small 
 fish. 
 
 Whatever is chosen for the filling should be 
 cooked in a sauce, thick, rich, and suited to its 
 individual character: oysters, shrimps, fillets 
 of sole, etc., in thick white sauce with cream ; 
 ragouts of meat, poultry, etc., im brown sauce. 
 Button mushrooms are a great addition to the 
 last-named. 
 
 Sweet vol-au-vents, made of fruit cooked as 
 for a compote or jam placed in the hollow and 
 a whipped cream over the top, are very de- 
 licious. 
 
 The following short lists may be useful as a 
 guide to what are really orthodox and reliable 
 entrées. A few selected entremets are also ap- 
 
 pended. 
 
TO oe eae Fl ee ee fe pe ee ee ee ee A 
 SEP Pe ES SOP Ae EIEN ee ea Pe ee ae 
 
 174 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 eae or me ante 
 
 Meat Entrées. 
 
 Beef croquettes, olives, croustades. 
 », persillades, miroton, curried. 
 » minced, grilled and fricassée. 
 Mutton cutlets a la sauce piquante. 
 e, »  & la sauce soubise. 
 5», aujardiniere, grilled, ete. 
 Sheep’s kidneys sautés, with mushrooms. 
 » tails & la sauce tomate. 
 » brains & la sauce poulette. 
 »,  teet, stuffed, fried, etc. 
 Lamb’s head a la sauce poulette. 
 
 - cutlets aux fines herbes. 
 Veal cutlet aux petits pois. 
 »  iricassée. 
 
 » breast en blanquette, with capers. A 
 » sweetbreads, fricassée, a la sauce tomate, — 
 Calf’s liver, baked en fricandeau, fricassée. 
 Calf’s head a@ la poulette, etc. | 
 Pork cutlets a@ la sauce powrade, grilled. 
 5, & la sauce soubise, tomate, etc. 
 » sausages, aus choux, a la pureé, etc. 
 Poultry, roast, fricassée, aw blane. 
 : ” in aspic, in mayonnaise. 
 x w la jardiniére, curried, etc. 
 rf with turnips, aux petits pois, etc. — 
 
 3) 
 
ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 175 
 
 Pigeons aux choux, aux champignons. 
 Ragott finaneciere. 
 Rabbit au blanc, au jambon. 
 », Stewed, roast, a la Tartare. 
 Salmis of game :—snipe, partridges, pheasant, 
 woodcock, quails, etc. 
 e 3 . 
 Game pie, hunter’s pie. 
 Chartreuse of game. 
 
 Fish Entrées. 
 
 Salmon cutlets, mayonnaise, pickled. 
 
 " »5, With divers sauces. 
 
 », trout, boiled or baked. 
 Soles aw gratin, auz fines herbes. 
 Filleted soles en aspic, aw blanc, fried, etc. 
 Sole Normande. 
 Cod, baked, au gratin, @ la sauce blanche. 
 Salt cod en brandade. 
 Mackerel @ la maitre @hotel, grilled, ete. 
 Herrings, grilled, pickled, etc. 
 Whiting, fried, baked, aw gratin aw blanc. 
 Plaice, filleted, stuffed, etc. 
 
 Vol-au-vent, with various fillings. 
 Petits patés chauds. 
 Timbales. 
 
176 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 Ses 0s ee 
 Rissoles. Raised pies. 
 Eggs au gratin, a la sauce, aus epinards (with 
 spinach, sorrel, etc.). 
 
 Entremets. 
 
 Ham, glazed or sliced. 
 Tongues, glazed or pressed. 
 Galantines of meat or poultry. 
 Omelettes, aua fines herbes, auw tomates. 
 aua champignons, ognons, etc. 
 A au sucre, au confiture, rhum, ete. 
 Eggs en salade. 
 Salads of all kinds. 
 Mayonnaises. 
 Macaroni, etc. 
 Haricots aw blanc, & la bonne femme. 
 ; flageolets au beurre. 
 Petits pois. 
 Cauliflower au gratin, au fromage, etc. 
 Artichokes. Aubergines. 
 Chicory, celery, cucumbers. 
 Asparagus. Salsify. Sea kale. 
 Mushrooms. Potatoes. 
 
 Sweet Entremets. 
 
 Hufs a la neige. 
 Creme renversée, Creme Sambayone. 
 
ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 177 
 Charlotte russe. 
 Soufflées. Orépes. — 
 Beignets de Pommes, Vabricots, etc. 
 Meringues. Compotes of all kinds. 
 Jellies of all kinds. 
 Fruit salads. 
 
 Directions for preparing almost all the dishes 
 here named have been given in different 
 chapters. 
 
 With regard to the dishes made from remains 
 (a decided feature amongst this class), sufficient 
 have been indicated to enable the average cook 
 to compile and arrange others for herself. 
 
 When tails, feet, brains, etc., are intended to 
 be used, care must be taken to have them 
 thoroughly cleansed and _ par-boiled, before 
 dressing them in the manner desired. 
 
 Kidneys require light cooking when intending 
 to serve them sautés; but if stewed or otherwise 
 served they need longer time and gentle heat. 
 
 P.C. N 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 The Déefeuner a la Fourchette. 
 
 HAT cleverest of Englishmen, Macaulay, 
 
 must have had the ‘ Déjeuner a la Four- 
 chette”? in his mind when he said that “ An 
 invitation to breakfast was a proof that one was 
 held to be good company; people were invited 
 to dinner very often, but a man must be really 
 liked when one asked him to breakfast.” 
 
 This can scarcely be associated with the 
 modern English breakfast, which, although an 
 excellent meal in its way, is generally too early, 
 too hurried, and too business-like to admit of 
 the sociability which an invited guest would 
 naturally expect; hence perhaps the more 
 favourite invitation to lunch, common enough; 
 sometimes delightful, sometimes not. 
 
 It has been argued that people should never 
 
 meet socially until dinner-time ; tempers are apt 
 178 
 
THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 179 
 
 to be too much tried, or nerves too unsteady, 
 until the work of the day is practically over. 
 This may be a very safe rule for acquaintances 
 and friends, allowing exceptions to be made 
 occasionally, but in the family it is different. 
 
 In most families there will be found at least 
 one member who will shirk coming down until 
 the very last moment, thereby endangering the 
 certainty as well as the sanctity of the family 
 breakfast; another perhaps is so far before- 
 hand as to have gone from the house before 
 others can fairly begin the meal. 
 
 Our French “ pére de famille ” so far recog- 
 nises this fact that he does not attempt to 
 struggle against the inevitable. Hach member 
 is at liberty to follow his own inclinations as 
 early or late as he pleases, provided they will 
 all assemble at “déjeuner,” when as a rule 
 hunger will bring all the flock to the family 
 table. 
 
 In Parisian families and in the better class 
 provincial households this is the first serious 
 meal of the day. Itis partaken of at midday, 
 breakfast consisting of little more than a cup of 
 coffee, frequently served to each member in his 
 own chamber. This midday repast is generally 
 the time for the family chat, when all meet to- 
 
180 THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 
 
 gether for the first time in the day, and have 
 less restraint upon them than at the more formal 
 dinner hour. 
 
 It is quite a characteristic meal; although 
 similar to the Englishman’s lunch, yet it is not 
 so much a make-up meal as the latter, when it 
 is thought lawful to serve up half-finished joints 
 or tarts in their original form, with lttle or no 
 attempt at disguise. No, the Frenchman looks 
 for his little “ plats” to be as daintily presented 
 as at the more important dinner, and the 
 ‘“‘remains,” if brought again before him, must 
 be delicately “‘ réchauffé.”’ 
 
 “ Potage”’ is sometimes served at this hour, 
 anda vegetable purée is mostly chosen, as the 
 lighter potages and clear soups are preferable 
 at the late dinner. Dishes of fish, ragotts, 
 fricassées, omelettes, etc., are all eminently 
 suited for the déjeuner. 
 
 Both at the déjeuner and the dinner it is 
 customary in France to have what are termed 
 ‘“appetisers,” either to commence with or to 
 hand round during the meal, such for instance 
 ag olives, anchovies, oysters, pieces of Dutch 
 herrings, sardines and radishes. 
 
 The last-named are found exceedingly useful 
 as a break between two rich-flavoured dishes. 
 
THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 181 
 
 Sardines are perhaps the most esteemed com- 
 mencement for a déjeuner, as oysters are most 
 liked as a preface to a good dinner. 
 
 One very effective little appetiser, and admir- 
 ably adapted to commence a déjeuner with, is 
 made as follows :—Some small round pieces are 
 cut from a stale loaf, then fried a light golden 
 colour in hot fat, and allowed to cool. Some 
 olives are then stewed, and a few anchovies 
 neatly filleted; these last-named are rolled up 
 and slipped into the stoned olives. Next a drop 
 of stiff mayonnaise sauce is placed upon the 
 tiny round of fried bread, the olive is fixed 
 upon this, and another drop of sauce crowns the 
 whole, or a bit of bright aspic jelly. 
 
 The mingled flavours of olive, anchovy, and 
 sauce are delicious. Anchovy toast is also a 
 very nice commencement to a déjeuner. 
 
 We will now consider a few dishes suitable 
 for a simple family déjeuner, and equally suited 
 for the luncheon table of our English friends. 
 Let us suppose that sardines have been first 
 handed round, as they are available at all times 
 of the year. Nothing but a good piece of bread 
 is required with them. It need not be hinted 
 that this is a very unsubstantial commencement 
 to a meal; remember it is only the appetiser. 
 
182 THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 
 
 We will now seriously begin the meal with 
 “potage a la purée et au croiitons.” This is 
 made by first boiling split peas and other vege- 
 tables till thoroughly soft, then passing them 
 through the tamis, and adding a sufficient 
 quantity of stock or thin broth to make all of 
 the consistency of cream. Season this well; 
 let it heat again, and while it is doing so, some 
 bread which has been cut into dice is fried in a 
 little butter till brown, then put in the tureen, 
 and the boiling purée poured over just before 
 serving. 
 
 If we had chosen, this same potage might 
 have been made of lentils, haricots, or potatoes, 
 all done exactly the same way. : 
 
 We will presume the ménagére has at hand 
 some cold roast beef, from which she purposes 
 to make “ beef olives.”” She will first prepare 
 a light forcemeat, bread-crumbs, suet, chopped 
 parsley and herbs, an egg to bind the whole, 
 and pepper and salt; a little fine sausage meat 
 is also an improvement. 
 
 The roast beef is sliced very thinly, the force- 
 meat laid in small quantities on each slice, and 
 these are then rolled lightly, fastened with a 
 little skewer, and dipped into egg and bread- 
 crum)hs, then fried in hot fat for a few minutes. 
 
THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 183 
 
 After that they are laid in a brown sauce, well 
 flavoured, to cook a few minutes longer. Just 
 before serving a little wine is added to the sauce. 
 
 These olives might also have been made of 
 fresh beef, ramp steak very thinly sliced, butin 
 that case a little longer time to stew should be 
 allowed. 
 
 “Flageolets au beurre” would be excellent 
 either to follow this dish or to serve with it, ac- 
 cording to taste. 
 
 The flageolets, cooked in water until quite 
 tender, are well drained, then tossed about in 
 the sauté pan with butter, seasoning, anda little 
 chopped parsley added last of all. All the 
 butter in the pan should be served with them. 
 The same remark made in the case of the potage 
 will apply here—viz., haricots, potatoes, etc., 
 are equally adapted to be served in exactly the 
 same way at a déjeuner. 
 
 An ‘omelette soufflée’’? might now follow. 
 ‘This is made by whisking the whites and volks 
 of the eggs apart, allowing one for each person, 
 adding powdered sugar in the proportion of a 
 teaspoonful to each egg, and a little lemon juice 
 to the beaten yolks; then beat in the snowy 
 whites, 
 
 A shallow baking tin is liberally buttered, 
 
184 THE DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE. 
 
 then heated. The mixture is poured in and 
 baked in a quick oven. It will rise very much, 
 and when lightly browned on the top is suffici- 
 ently done, and must be served immediately. A 
 little sifted sugar is a sufficient accompaniment. 
 
 Cheese, or biscuits and jelly, generally form 
 the closing portion of a déjeuner, sweet dishes 
 being thought rather out of place, excepting as 
 far as they occur in omelettes. 
 
 A glass of liqueur is as invariably the final 
 note as a cup of café noir, both here and at the 
 dinner ; indeed the “‘ mazagran” or clear black 
 coffee, served in a thick glass tumbler with 
 lump sugar, seems never out of place at any 
 hour of the day. 
 
 Although resembling a dinner, in general 
 outline, at least, it will be seen that a déjeuner 
 is a far simpler affair. One dish of meat is 
 considered quite sufficient, with a dish of vege- 
 tables or salad to follow it. 
 
 If a fish course is preferred, and it consists of 
 a fairly substantial kind, as soles, or mackerel, 
 or cod, then meat may be dispensed with al- 
 together, or the potage may be omitted. 
 
 Simplicity should be one of the characteristics 
 of this repast, as elegance and simplicity may 
 safely travel hand in hand. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Menus for Small Dinners, 
 
 HERE is one point in connection with the 
 all-important meal of the day that, in 
 small households at least, is frequently over- 
 looked—viz., having a menu. It is sometimes 
 thought to be ostentatious, but this is a great 
 mistake, and certainly if there be a guest at 
 the table it is a kindness as well as a duty on 
 the part of the host to see that one is provided. 
 Even at the private family table it will often 
 be found of great service ; imagination plays an 
 important part in the human organization, a 
 good name going a long way towards bringing 
 a dish into favour. So many devices are now 
 obtainable at so trifling a cost that none need 
 be excused on this account. 
 
 A wise housewife will keep the menus which 
 185 ‘ 
 
186 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 
 
 have once served, making particular note of 
 those which gained the most favour; they will 
 be found of great service in helping her on 
 future occasions. 
 
 Too great care can scarcely be given to the 
 appearance of the dinner table. An insufficient 
 supply of bread, or the lack of minor comforts, 
 such as mustard, well-filled salt-cellars, ete., or 
 knives and forks irregularly placed, are quite 
 enough in themselves to spoil the appetite of 
 the moderately fastidious. 
 
 Elaborate decorations either of fruit or 
 flowers are only within the reach of the 
 wealthy, but a few fresh flowers, or a little 
 growing plant, may be procured by the most 
 frugal family economist. 
 
 Perhaps the prettiest decoration possible is the 
 common field poppy and its attendant grasses, 
 or the autumn bramble leaves, to be had for the 
 gathering. Ivy or holly in winter may be kept 
 fresh for weeks with care. | 
 
 Due regard should be had to the fact that we 
 eat by the eye as well as by the palate, and by 
 the sense of association as well as by reason. 
 In fact, too great a regard for reason with 
 many people would be thought sufficient to spoil 
 the appetite ; they prefer to follow the example 
 
MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 187 
 
 of that good old bon vivant of anecdote fame 
 who “‘ate as he pleased,” 
 
 He had as many things as he liked, and ate 
 of them as much as he could, then with a stiff 
 tumbler of brandy and water he would go to 
 sleep, and “leave them to fight it out amongst 
 themselves.” 
 
 That sociability at table is an aid to digestion 
 is an undisputed fact, and no one realizes this 
 more than the typical Frenchman. 
 
 Having a natural inclination to domesticity, he 
 is much more alive to the amount of trouble in- 
 volved in the preparation of a good dinner, and 
 is, therefore, prepared to give due and discrim- 
 inating appreciation to each course ; welcoming 
 with a beaming eye his favourite “sauce” or 
 “ civet,”’ as the case may be, until at the last he 
 is left in that delightful state of mind described 
 as “the love of all mankind and toleration of 
 the Chinese.” 
 
 When giving an order for a dinner a little 
 forethought should be used; it will save an in- 
 finity of trouble. 
 
 It is possible to order a dinner, and a small 
 one too, which implies so many saucepans in 
 use that the fireplace could not hold them all; 
 or many dishes which can only be dressed at the 
 
188 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 
 
 last moment, therefore all claiming the attention 
 of the cook at the same time. 
 
 Fried oysters, croquettes, mutton cutlets, and 
 an omelette, would sorely try the most capable 
 cook were they ordered as four entrées together. 
 
 Where the ménagére is her own cook, she 
 will be less likely to fall into this error; still, a 
 little thinking beforehand may save even her a 
 good many steps, and considerable anxiety at 
 the crucial time of serving up. Many things, 
 particularly entrée dishes, may be cooked hours 
 before, and then only require to be warmed up. 
 
 We will suppose that a family of six to eight 
 persons has to be catered for, and the housewife ~ 
 has to depend largely upon her own two hands 
 for most of the actual work of cooking, and that 
 soup, fish, one entrée, joint, and sweets is to be 
 the menu. 
 
 The entrée should generally (if economy has 
 to be studied) be made of the remains of the 
 previous day’s joint, if that is sufficiently re- 
 duced in size, or something simple, such as 
 omelettes or a vegetable dish. 
 
 Whether an entrée is an expense or no 
 largely depends upon the ingenuity of the cook ; 
 if the joint is hot and fresh, an entrée preceding 
 it will serve as a damper, and save it from a too 
 
MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 189 
 
 liberal consumption; if it be cold, then the 
 same entrée will make it all the more palatable. 
 
 In sauces, either for fish or meat, one expense 
 or provision may be made to serve two pur- 
 poses. For instance, if we have “Sole a la 
 Normande,” and rump steak with oyster sauce ; 
 half a dozen oysters will serve for both, while 
 the melted butter may be all made at once, and 
 divided afterwards ; the same wine also, and the 
 same seasoning, etc. 
 
 If adish of vegetables is required, and the 
 soup is a clear stock or bouillon, these vege- 
 tables will cook quite as well in the soup, and 
 increase its flavour; always, of course, except- 
 ing such vegetables as cabbage or spinach, 
 which should boil in clear water by themselves ; 
 cauliflowers do not give a disagreeable flavour 
 by any means, but their whiteness could not be 
 keptif boiled in stock, therefore they also should 
 be cooked alone. 
 
 Where the first part of the dinner claims 
 much attention and watching, the sweet dishes 
 should be such as can be prepared in advance ; 
 then, if the reverse be the case, the meat cold, 
 and the fish of a simple kind, a little more 
 elaboration may be given to this course. 
 
 As a rule, two fried dishes or two boiled ones 
 
190 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 
 
 should not appear in the same menu ; of course, 
 there are occasions when it is necessary to make 
 exceptions, but it will be found too great a tax 
 upon one pair of hands. 
 
 The following menus may be found sugges- 
 tive. Recipes are not ‘given here, as they will 
 mostly be found under their respective headings, 
 or at the close of the book :— 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Julienne soup. 
 Sole au gratin. 
 Roast loin of mutton with turnips and sauce © 
 blanche au persil. 
 Omelettes au rhum. 
 Fruit tartlets. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Bouillon. 
 
 Boiled beef, with a “ plat de carrottes.” 
 Braised chicken and salad. 
 Potatoes sautés. 
 
 Apple fritters. 
 
 Cheese, with crofitons. 
 
MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Potage au tomates. 
 
 Boiled cod, sauce maitre d’hotel. 
 
 Fricandeau of veal. 
 Spinach with eggs. 
 Rice mould and 
 Compote of fruit. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Potage au lait. 
 Croquettes, tomato sauce. 
 Roast beef. 
 
 Peas or haricots au beurre. 
 Soufflée pudding, with 
 Chocolate or jelly sauce. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Bisque of crab. 
 Lobster cutlets. 
 Braised leg of mutton. 
 Cauliflower a la sauce blanche. 
 Lemon meringue pudding. 
 
 19! 
 
192 MENUS FOR SMALL DINNERS. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Vermicelli soup. 
 Ragout of mutton. 
 Cold roast beef. 
 Potatoes 4 la créme and 
 Vegetable salad. 
 
 Gateau de riz. 
 
 “‘ Hors-d’ceuvre,” consisting of oysters, olives. 
 radishes, cheese, and butter, may be placed 
 upon the table or handed round. If liked, 
 potatoes may accompany both fish and all meat 
 dishes. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Choice Supper Dishes. 
 
 ITH families who breakfast at an early 
 
 hour, and dine in the middle of the day, 
 the need of a fairly substantial meal at supper 
 time is a felt want. And whether the supper 
 dish be a hot or a cold one, it is of first im- 
 portance that it should be a savoury one, as it 
 is frequently a wearied mind as weil as a tired 
 body which asks to be refreshed at this hour. 
 
 Many of the dishes described in the previous 
 chapters are eminently suited for supper dishes; 
 particulary those classed under the head of 
 “Fricassées and Réchauffés,”’ and for an ap- 
 _ petising way of STH meat cold see the 
 chapter on “ Salads.” 
 
 Kidneys make a very eaetol dish for the 
 supper table, either served alone or with a little 
 meat. They are by no means indigestible if 
 
 P.C. sabe O 
 
194 CHOICE SUPPER DISHis 
 properly cooked. Kidneys sauté are delicious. 
 Slice some kidneys about a quarter of an inch 
 thick, dip each piece into flour, and drop into 
 a tin containing a little hot fat, cut some fice 
 bacon into thin strips and frizzle at the same 
 time. 
 
 The kidneys should be turned about in the 
 hot fat and only given four or five minutes 
 cooking; pour off all superfluous fat, sprinkle 
 
 with pepper and salt, add a tablespoonful of | 
 
 ketchup or tomato sauce, the same of boiling 
 
 water, stir together and pour over a slice of © 
 
 hot toast. Serve immediately. 
 If a veal kidney is to be had, it is very nice 
 
 served as ‘‘ kidney fritters.” It should be pte- 
 
 viously cooked, then minced finely. A batter 
 made with eggs, milk and flour, according to 
 the amount of the kidney, chopped chives, 
 parsley and mushrooms (if available), seasoning 
 and a little spice. Beat well together, then 
 
 melt a small lump of butter in the sauté pan, . 
 
 pour in the mixture, allow it to set firmly, then 
 slide it on to a hot dish and set in a very hot 
 oven for a moment to brown the top. 7 
 The fat part of the kidney should be used as 
 well as the lean, or else a little fat pork with it. 
 Meat and game pies of all descriptions are 
 
 eke > 
 
CHOICE SUPPER DISHES. 195 
 
 very desirable supper dishes. French pie crust, 
 whether for eating hot or cold, is made as 
 follows :—Into a pound of flour, half a pound 
 of butter is lightly rubbed and a teaspoonful 
 of salt; this is made into a smooth paste with 
 two eggs beaten and a small quantity of water. 
 The paste should be lightly rolled out two or 
 three times, then baked as soon as possible. 
 
 A very fair imitation of game pie may be 
 made with but little expense if care be given 
 to the preparation of the following forcemeat. 
 
 Half a pound of calf’s liver and the same 
 quantity of fat bacon should be fried till cooked 
 _ through, then chopped small and pounded 
 finely ina mortar. When thoroughly reduced, 
 add a good teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs, 
 half one of black pepper, mustard and mace, 
 and a little salt and a few bread-crumbs ; mix 
 smoothly with two yolks of eggs. Line the 
 bottom crust of the pie with slices of fat bacon, 
 then a good layer of forcemeat, and fill up with 
 joints of fowls or ducks, rabbits, or anything 
 most available at the time. It is not at all 
 necessary that it should be game. If all bones 
 which it is possible to remove are taken out, 
 the pie will be so much the better. 
 
 Fill up all spaces with forcemeat, lay a little 
 
196 CHOICE SUPPER DISiles 
 
 more bacon at the top, then put on the top 
 crust, brush over with beaten egg and bake. 
 A little strong gravy well seasoned and a little 
 dissolved gelatine added to it should be poured 
 in when it is baked, through a small hole at 
 the top. This pie may be eaten hot, but it is 
 better cold. 
 
 Veal with a little sausage meat, or rump 
 steak with mushrooms, or kidneys, and rabbits 
 jointed, are all excellent “ fillings” for pies. 
 These pies require careful and thorough baking. 
 
 A very savoury hot dish is a Paté of Macaroni. 
 For this half a dozen lengths of macaroni 
 should be broken into small pieces and gently 
 simmered in a pint of boiling water in which an 
 onion and a little salt has boiled. Drain well, 
 in about twenty minutes’ time. Place a layer of 
 macaroni at the bottom of a buttered pie-dish, 
 sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over and a 
 few bits of butter; then cover with pieces of 
 beefsteak which has been previously stewed 
 tender, the gravy thickened and browned and 
 highly seasoned. 
 
 Fricasséed chicken, veal cut small, or sweet- 
 breads cut into dice, may take the place of beef, 
 but should all have been previously stewed in 
 good gravy. Another layer of macaroni and a 
 
CA7OICE SUPPER, DISHES. 197 
 
 covering of cheese should form a crust at the 
 top; then bake this paté for about ten minutes 
 in the oven. Serve at once. 
 
 Sweetbreads, either fried in eges and bread- 
 crumbs, fricasséed, or stewed in a brown sauce, | 
 are excellent at supper time, and are very 
 suitable for persons of weak digestion. They 
 should always be parboiled in salt and water, 
 then thrown into cold water before being 
 further dressed. 
 
 Boiled fish is scarcely a dish for the supper- 
 table, but small fish broiled over the fire with 
 sauce, or “‘au gratin,” or even fried, are all 
 acceptable. Pork meat and sausages should be 
 avoided at this hour by the wise and prudent. 
 
 Hgegs are thought to be indigestible at night 
 by many people, but if cooked with care they 
 need not be feared. 
 
 If done 4 la Maitre d’Hotel they are very 
 savoury. A Spanish onion should be sliced 
 thinly, frizzled slightly in butter, a little flour 
 added, some hot milk, seasoning and chopped 
 parsley; let this thicken. Take some eggs 
 and lightly poach them ; then lay on toast, and 
 pour this sauce over them. 
 
 Hggs may be fricasséed by first boiling them 
 hard; then cutting them into slices and tossing 
 
98 CHOICE SUPPER DISHES. 
 
 them in the sauté pan with butter, parsley, 
 seasoning, etc., and adding a little cream, or, 
 if preferred, a little gravy. Amongst French 
 people omelettes are much favoured as a supper - 
 dish. 
 
 Cheese has rather a bad reputation with 
 many people. If they would take the trouble 
 to grate it and “sandwich” it between bread 
 and butter, they would find it as harmless as 
 it is tasty, and the recommendation given in 
 Chap. IX. is worthy of attention. 
 
 “Cheese fondue” is a capital way of using 
 up stale crusts of cheese, besides being another 
 hot and savoury dish.—See Chap. IX. 
 
 Cheese and cauliflowers, cheese and macaroni, 
 cheese patés and cheese straws, are all much- 
 liked dishes at the supper table. 
 
 Where pastry is objected to, its place may 
 be substituted by a light mixture of eggs, flour, 
 butter, with a pinch of baking powder; the 
 former ingredients in the proportion of a spoon- 
 ful of flour and half one of butter to each egg, 
 and a spoonful of milk. This may be baked in 
 small buttered cups, or it may be poured on 
 to two buttered plates and baked, jam or jelly 
 being spread upon one while the other forms a 
 cover, or it may be baked in one tin as a flat 
 
CHOICE SUPPER DISHES. 199 
 
 sheet, then spread with jam or marmalade, and 
 rolled up as for a Genoese roll. 
 
 Sponge biscuits spread with jelly, placed in 
 a glass dish, and a sweet custard or egg cream 
 poured over, makes avery nice cold sweet dish. 
 
CHAPTER XxX. 
 Zoodenount, 
 
 Some strictly French recipes not included in 
 former chapters. 
 
 Potage aux Marrons. (Chestnut soup.) 
 
 Arter having boiled the chestnuts, peel them 
 carefully and pound them in a mortar. Pass 
 them through a sieve, adding a little bouillon 
 or clear stock from time to time. When reduced 
 to a purée add more stock to make the quantity 
 of soup required ; add salt, cayenne pepper, and 
 mace to flavour it pleasantly. Boil it up again, 
 then if a white soup is desired, add a teaspoonful 
 of boiling cream ; if a brown soup be preferred, 
 add a little good gravy and a spoonful of brown 
 thickening. Pour over a little fried bread in 
 
 the tureen. 
 200 
 
ADDENDUM. 201 
 
 Potage au Potiron. (Pumpkin soup.) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pumpkin, if very large a 
 thick slice will be sufficient, pare it, take out 
 the seeds. Then boil in water till quite soft, 
 drain all water away and add a lump of butter 
 the size of an egg, a little salt, then mash well 
 together. Add a pint of boiling milk and a few 
 lumps of sugar, stir well, and when cooled a 
 little stir in a beaten yolk of egg. Pour over a 
 slice of white bread, cut into dice and serve. 
 
 Potage Printanier. (Spring soup.) 
 
 Take a pint of fresh shelled peas, a shred 
 lettuce, cress, parsley, a sprig of mint, a few 
 leaves of sorrel, a few fresh onions, and cook 
 them till tender in a little fresh butter. Press 
 through a colander and add clear stock, let it 
 boil again, then allow to cool, after which add 
 the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Season it 
 well before serving. 
 
 Potage aux Poireaux. (Leek soup.) 
 
 This may be made with either stock or water. 
 A dozen leeks should be shced thinly, then 
 frizzled in butter till of a nice brown colour, 
 when a slice of bread should be added to them, 
 
202 ADDENDUM 
 
 Pepper and salt liberally. Let this cook slowly 
 for a little time, then add boiling water or stock 
 to make a sufficient quantity. If liked milk 
 may be used instead. 
 
 Potage a la Crécy. (Superior carrot soup.) 
 
 Slice and chop small the best part of three or 
 four large carrots, put them into a stewpan with 
 two ounces of butter, add a sliced onion, a 
 turnip, some pepper and salt, a slice of lean 
 bacon, also cut very small. Letthem cook for 
 half an hour, shaking the pan occasionally to 
 keep from burning. Pour over two pints of 
 stock or water, let them boil for two hours 
 longer. Strain and press the vegetables through 
 a sieve. Thicken with a tablespoonful of tapi- 
 oca, return to the pan and boil a few minutes 
 longer. Serve with toasted strips of bread. 
 
 Boubillasse. (A Provencal potage.) 
 
 Take any kind of fish, but whiting or cod and 
 dory are preferable. Put the fish into a stewpan 
 to boil gently. In a frying-pan place a sliced 
 onion, a clove of garlic, chopped parsley, chopped 
 lemon rind, salt and pepper, spice, and a little 
 oil. When sufficiently fried add the fish, which 
 
ADDENDUM. 203 
 
 should be boned, skinned and cut into quarters. 
 Stir well together, add two pints of boiling 
 water and a bit of butter mixed with sufficient 
 flour to thicken the whole. Let it boil gently 
 for a quarter of an hour, then serve. If mack- 
 erel, sardines, or other rich kinds of fish are 
 used, make them brown by frying, add clear 
 stock and a little brown thickening. 
 
 Bouf a la Mode. 
 
 A piece of the round of beef is best for this 
 dish, asthere is no boneinit. Lardit with long 
 strips of salted pork inserted ina larding needle. 
 At the bottom of an earthenware stewpot or the 
 “ braisiére”’ put first a glassful of white wine, 
 then several small onions left whole, carrots cut 
 in slices, a few more bits of salt pork, a “ bou- 
 quet garni,” some peppercorns and a little salt. 
 Place the meat upon these, cover over tightly 
 and put the vessel to cook over the charcoal 
 stove or in the far corner of the oven. Let it 
 stew gently for five or six hours. Serve with 
 the vegetables. If the beef is intended to be 
 eaten cold a calf’s foot or small piece of knuckle 
 of veal should be cooked with it. When the 
 meat has cooked sufficiently, take it out, take 
 away the vegetables, and add a beaten white of 
 
204 ADDENDUM. 
 
 ego to clarify the gravy; let this boil for a 
 moment, then strain over the beef ; it will jelly 
 when cold. 
 
 Langue de Beuf a la Persillade. 
 
 Allow a tongue to boil in salted water until 
 tender; then strip it of the skin and cut it 
 open lengthways down the middle; lay it flat 
 upon a dish. Pour over it a sauce made of 
 butter melted, a wineglassful of vinegar, a good 
 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, pepper and 
 salt. 
 
 Langue de Boeuf en Hoche Pot. 
 
 Partly boil the tongue in salted water, skin 
 it, cut into short thick pieces. Put into a stew- 
 pan with a few pieces of fat bacon all sorts of 
 vegetables cut into convenient lengths, a bouquet 
 of herbs, seasoning and a glass of white winé. 
 Cover well and cook gently for two or three 
 hours; arrange all neatly on a hot dish, strain 
 the gravy, and pour over all. 
 
 Boeuf au Four. (To be eaten cold.) 
 
 Mince finely a slice of lean beef, then add a 
 small quantity of beef fat, also finely minced, 
 
ADDENDUM. 205 
 the same of lean ham, some parsley, mushrooms 
 (fresh or tinned ones), shallots, and savoury 
 herbs, all finely minced also. Line a mould with 
 a few slices of nice bacon, cut small. Add to 
 the mince four yolks of eggs, to bind it well 
 together, then put into the mould and bake 
 gently two or three hours. The mould should 
 be carefully covered over with a paste made of 
 flour and water. When sufficiently cooked re- 
 move this crust and pour a little melted butter 
 over the top of the meat. Set aside till cold. 
 This is a nice dish for the supper table. 
 
 Queue de Boeuf en Hoche Pot. 
 
 The ox tail is jointed, then parboiled and 
 cooked afterwards in the stewpan in exactly the 
 same manner as the “ Langue de boeuf en hoche 
 pot.” 
 
 Queue de Boeuf a la Matelote. 
 
 Cut the ox tail at each joint, stew gently in 
 the oven with water till quite tender. Make a 
 little brown roux with butter and flour, and mix 
 a little of the liquor from the stewpan with it. 
 Place the joints of ox tail in this and a few 
 small onions previously boiled in water; add a 
 
206 ADDENDUM. 
 
 glass of wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove, 
 peppercorns, and a spoonful of salt. Cook 
 slowly another hour, take out the pieces of tail, 
 put them on a dish, and arrange the onions 
 round them; strain the sauce, and add a spoon- 
 ful of capers or anchovy sauce. Pour over all 
 and garnish with strips of fried bread. 
 
 Carré de Mouton aux Conecombres. 
 
 Take a square piece of mutton (a flank cut 
 will do), trim it neatly, prick it with fat all 
 over, then roast it. While it is roasting prepare 
 two or three small cucumbers, which have been 
 pared and steeped in vinegar. Cut them into 
 dice, put a little butter into a stewpan, and a 
 slice of ham; add the cucumbers, and stir 
 them about till they begin to brown, then stir 
 in a pinch of flour with seasoning, a little clear 
 stock. Let them cook a little longer till slightly 
 thick; then pour on the dish and place the 
 roast mutton over. 
 
 Carré de Mouton a la Ravigote. 
 
 A piece of the breast is best for this. Cut it 
 into small portions, sauté them in a little clear fat 
 for a few minutes, add a spoonful of flour and 
 a cupful of stock; add seasoning and garlic, if 
 
ADDENDUM. 207 
 
 liked; if not, a few shallots. Let it simmer for 
 an hour. Then remove all fat; take away part 
 of the sauce, to which add two yolks of eggs 
 and a lettuce, a handful of cress, tarragon 
 leaves and parsley, mint and thyme, all of which 
 have been boiled a few minutes in water and 
 then chopped finely. Stir all this over the fire 
 till it thickens, then arrange the meat on a hot 
 dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Filet de Mouton a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
 The loin of mutton should have the bones 
 removed for this dish. Lay the piece flat, then 
 place upon it a mixture of minced parsley, 
 herbs, shallots, and a few bread-crumbs ; then 
 roll up carefully and fasten securely with small 
 skewers. Place in a baking-tin, with a liberal 
 supply of fat. Let it cook briskly for an hour 
 or more, according to size. Then pour off all 
 fat, add a cupful of stock, a dash of vinegar, a 
 spoonful of dried parsley, pepper, and salt, and 
 a little flour to thicken it. Allow this to boil 
 well, then pour over the roll and serve. ~ 
 
 Epaule de Mouton a la Turque. 
 
 Boil a shoulder of mutton in a little bouillon 
 or broth with a bunch of savoury herbs, a bit of 
 
208 ADDENDUM. 
 
 garlic, a clove, a laurel leaf, basil, two onions, 
 thyme, and a few root vegetables, till just done, 
 allowing a quarter of an hour to a pound weight 
 of meat. A little while before serving take a 
 small quantity of this bouillon, remove all fat, 
 and put in it a quarter-pound of well-washed 
 rice to cook till soft. Put the shoulder of 
 mutton on to a dish, make a few incisions in 
 it to receive the rice, cover the whole completely 
 with rice, and over that grate some stale cheese. 
 Hold a salamander over it to brown the surface, 
 and serve with clear brown sauce. 
 
 Haricot de Mouton. 
 
 Cut up two pounds of breast of mutton or the 
 blade. part of the shoulder; fry the pieces in 
 clear hot fatafter first dipping each piece in flour, 
 then drain them when of a nice brown colour; 
 after which cut up some turnips into finger 
 lengths, brown them also in the fat. Then 
 make some clear brown sauce and place the 
 pieces of mutton in it to stew with a bouquet 
 garni, two or three whole onions; then add the 
 turnips. When cooked (in about half an hour) 
 remove the fat. Serve on a hot dish and cover 
 over with the turnips and sauce. 
 
ADDENDUM. 209 
 
 Gigot de Mouton Farci. 
 
 Bone a lege of mutton and in the place of the 
 bone put the following stuffing: lean ham, a 
 little salt pork, mushrooms, and cucumbers, 
 minced together, seasoned with salt, mixed 
 spices and savoury herbs mixed firmly together 
 with an egg. Jill up all spaces in the leg with 
 this, tie together with string to keep in place, 
 then put into a covered stewpan with a cupful 
 of broth and one of wine, an onion, a carrot, 
 and a parsnip. Let it cook slowly for two or 
 three hours, strain the gravy, remove all fat, 
 thicken very slightly and serve with the mutton. 
 Or if to be eaten cold, make a glaze of the 
 gravy, and pour carefully over the leg when 
 nearly cold. 
 
 Blanquette de Veau. 
 
 This is made of the remains of roast fillet of 
 veal. Cut the meat into small equal-sized 
 pieces. Take two teacupfuls of velouté or 
 white thickened sauce, add the yolks of two or 
 three eggs, a small lump of butter, and a pinch 
 of chopped parsley, with the juice of a lemon 
 and a little seasoning. Let the meat thoroughly 
 heat through in this sauce, then serve at once. 
 
 P.0. P 
 
210 ADDENDUM. 
 
 If made with fresh meat, it should have been 
 cooked through in a little first. Blanquettes of 
 lamb, poultry, etc., are all made the same way. 
 Add tinned mushrooms if available. 
 
 Foie de Veau a l’'Italienne. 
 
 Cut the liver into small slices and place in a 
 covered stewpan in the following order; a layer 
 of liver, each piece having been dipped into 
 flour, then a liberal sprinkling of the following 
 
 _ mixture :—salt, pepper, olive oil, minced fine 
 
 herbs, mushrooms, garlic or shallots. Continue 
 to alternate with layers of the liver and this 
 mixture till all the liveris used. Let it cook 
 slowly for an hour or two. Remove the meat, 
 add a spoonful of vinegar and a little brown 
 thickening to the sauce, a glass of wine, and 
 serve very hot over the liver. 
 
 Foie de Veau a la Bourgeoise. 
 
 Keep the liver in one piece, but lard it thickly 
 with fat bacon, cover with flour and place ina 
 stewpan with a little fat, herbs, seasoning and 
 a few shallots. Let it cook three hours. A 
 glass of red wine and a yolk of egg are added 
 to the gravy before serving. Or a cupful of 
 stock may be substituted for the latter, and a 
 
ADDENDUM. 211 
 little more flour added if not thick enough. 
 The liver should be served in thin slices. It is 
 an excellent way of cooking this portion of the 
 animal, 
 
 Jambon a la Broche. 
 
 Take a ham which has been salted and dried, 
 but not smoked, or a leg of fresh pork may be 
 used instead. Let the ham steep for twenty 
 hours in white wine in which an onion and a 
 bunch of parsley are also steeping. Then hft 
 it out and set to roast before a clear fire, basting 
 with this liquor. Before it is quite cooked 
 through remove the rind, then allow it to brown ; 
 meanwhile in a saucepan prepare a glaze from 
 stock made from bones and remains of meat, 
 clarify and thicken this to form a stiff transpa- 
 rent glaze, and pour over the ham. Serve either 
 hot or cold. 
 
 Jambon a la Braise. 
 
 Hams cooked in the braisiére are very supe- 
 rior to boiled hams. A few vegetables may be 
 placed in the pot, if liked, and half a bottle of 
 wine may be added, but this is quite optional. 
 A leg of fresh pork will be very much improved 
 if done this way, but a liberal seasoning and 
 
zie ADDENDUM. 
 
 powdering of flour should be given from time 
 to time. Allow several hours to cook, and if 
 not brown enough remove the cover and set the 
 leg to finish before the fire. 
 
 Cotelettes de Pore en Ragout. 
 
 The pork cutlets having been previously partly 
 cooked in a stewpan, drain them and brown in 
 butter; add to them a sweetbread cut small, 
 some tinned mushrooms and giblets of poultry, 
 if any are available. Add a little flour, salt, 
 pepper, a bunch of parsley and herbs, minced 
 onion, and a cupful of liquor from the stewpan, 
 and let them simmer gently for half an hour. 
 Cutlets are very nice served over a purée of 
 lentils or peas. For this they should be cooked 
 as above, omitting the ingredients of the sauce, 
 as the latter is not required with a purée. 
 
 Lapin au Gite. 
 
 After having skinned, cleaned and paunched 
 the rabbit, make a stuffing, using the liver and 
 kidneys, chopping them finely with a few mush- 
 rooms, parsley, chives, bread-crumbs and an egg 
 beaten well, and salt and pepper. Fill the body 
 of the rabbit, sew together again, truss the 
 
ADDENDUM. 215 
 
 legs and shoulders with the help of wooden 
 skewers. Lay in a stewpan, pour over a glass 
 of red wine, a cupful of stock, dust it with flour, 
 add a few small onions, a slice or two of fat 
 bacon, and let it cook a couple of hours. 
 Thicken and brown the gravy before pouring 
 over the rabbit. 
 
 Lapin en Assiette. 
 
 Cut up the rabbit into small joints, partly cook 
 them in a covered vessel with a little stock well 
 seasoned, then lift out the pieces, roll them in 
 ege and bread-crumbs, then in a little melted 
 butter, and either grill them or fry carefully 
 with a little fat. Serve them without gravy 
 accompanied by a salad. 
 
 Filets de Lapin en Salade. 
 
 The remains of a rabbit either roasted or 
 baked are used for this dish. Cut into small 
 thick pieces. Cut up also two or three ancho- 
 vies, small onions previously boiled, whole 
 capers, a small quantity of bread cut into 
 “fingers”? and fried brown. Dress the whole 
 as a salad. 
 
214 ADDENDUM. 
 
 Lapin Sauté a la Minute. 
 
 Cut a rabbit into small pieces, wash and wipe 
 dry. Brown each piece in the sauté pan with 
 butter, aromatic herbs (ground), pepper, salt and 
 mace; add finely chopped parsley and shallots. 
 Draw aside from the fire, cover over and allow 
 to simmer for a few minutes, then serve on a 
 hot dish. 
 
 Poulets & la Montmorency. 
 
 Draw and singe two chickens of equal size. 
 Mix together minced suet, bread-crumbs, spice, 
 aromatic herbs, pepper, salt, and the juice of a 
 lemon; put a little in the body of each chicken. 
 Lay some thin slices of fat pork over each, and 
 also at the bottom of an earthenware stewpot. 
 Place the chickens upon them, add several 
 carrots, onions, a clove or two, bay leaves, 
 thyme, and a bunch of parsley. Moisten with 
 a cupful of bouillon. Lay buttered paper over 
 all and cook in the oven from two to three hours. 
 Serve with clear sauce espagnole. 
 
 Poulets a la Jardiniére. 
 
 Pluck and draw the chicken. Cut it open ‘ 
 down the back and lay as flat as possible. Let 
 
ADDENDUM. 215 
 it steep awhile in melted butter in which a clove 
 of garlic and some strong seasoning has lain. 
 Then drain the chicken, roll it well in bread- 
 crumbs, then broil over a clear fire. When 
 cooked lay upon a hot dish and pour over a 
 sauce made with a little of the melted butter, 
 slightly thickened with flour, a glass of wine, a 
 spoonful of vinegar, chopped parsley and mush- 
 rooms. Pour over the chicken and serve. 
 
 Poule a la Reine. 
 
 Draw and singe a fowl; an old one will do. 
 Rub it over well with butter, and cover with 
 sliced lemons. Let it cook for two hours ina 
 covered vessel, in which place also a carrot, two 
 onions, a bouquet garni, and a spoonful of vine- 
 gar with a little stock. Serve without these 
 vegetables, but with a sauce made from fresh 
 tomatoes (see Sauces) or a Financiere ragout. 
 (See Fricassées and Réchauffés.) 
 
 Canard aux Navets. 
 
 After having drawn and singed a duck, truss 
 it, and then place it ina thick brown sauce to 
 boil gently, turning it about occasionally; add 
 a bouquet garni, coarse salt and peppercorns, and 
 
216 ADDENDUM. 
 
 some turnips cut neatly into short thick pieces. 
 Allow it to cook from an hour and a half to two 
 hours. Skim away all fat, serve with the tur- 
 nips piled round the duck. This is the fagon 
 bourgeoise of preparing the duck. Another way 
 is to cook the duck separately in a white sauce, 
 the turnips boiled in water to blanch them, then 
 added to a little veal stock and white thicken- 
 ing, well seasoned, then poured over the duck 
 when that is thick enough. 
 
 Canard a la Purée Verte. 
 
 Cook a pint of peas with chives, parsley, and 
 watercress in a little water till quite soft. At 
 the same time boil a duck in broth with aromatic 
 herbs, onions, spice, and seasoning. Pass the 
 peas through atamis, thin the purée with a little 
 broth, season well, and pour over the duck. A 
 little salt bacon cut in strips and frizzled may 
 be laid round the dish as a garni. 
 
 Pigeons en Surprise. 
 
 Take five pigeons, pluck and draw them, 
 truss them also. Blanch the pigeons for a few 
 minutes in boiling water. ‘Take them out, and 
 in the same water put five good lettuces. Let 
 
ADDENDUM. 217 
 
 them boil ten minutes, throw them into cold 
 water and then squeeze them ina cloth. Cut 
 them in two without separating the leaves, 
 sprinkle the inside with the following mixture : 
 the livers finely minced together with parsley, 
 tarragon, thyme, chives, etc., and all mixed with 
 a little butter, salt and pepper. Then put in 
 each lettuce one of the pigeons, cover with 
 another sprinkling of herbs, and close up the 
 lettuce to appear as if untouched, tie them 
 securely and let them stew in rich broth for an 
 hour. When cooked drain them, remove the 
 string. Serve with a rich sauce made from a 
 little of the liquor thickened with yolks of eggs. 
 Dress nicely on a hot dish and pour the sauce 
 round the “ lettuces.” | 
 
 Morue a la Proveneale. 
 
 Allow some salted cod to le in water for 
 thirty-six hours, changing the water frequently. 
 Then put on the fire in clear cold water, and as 
 soon as it boils the cod is cooked ; lift it at once 
 and drain it. Place in a tin baking dish some 
 minced shallots, chives and parsley, sliced 
 lemon, a little butter, and. two spoonfuls of oil. 
 Arrange the cod over this in small pieces ; ther 
 
218 ADDENDUM. 
 
 cover over the cod with the same mixture and 
 grate a little stale bread over all. Bake for 
 twenty minutes in the oven. 
 
 Morue Fraiche aux Fines Herbes. 
 
 Take a whole cod, well wash and clean it. 
 Dry and powder it with flour, then rub over a 
 , tin baking-dish with fresh butter. Place the 
 cod in it, pour melted butter over and bake for 
 twenty minutes to half an hour. When done 
 pour over the following sauce :—a lump of 
 butter the size of an egg, a glass of white wine, 
 a’ tablespoonful of vinegar, same of chopped 
 parsley, chives and sweet herbs, pepper and 
 salt. Let these boil a moment, place the cod on 
 a dish and cover with the sauce. Cod is very 
 good baked this way and served with tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Hareng’s a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
 Clean well some herrings, split and bone them; 
 broil them over a clear fire, then lay on a hot 
 dish, spread over them butter mixed with dried 
 parsley, salt and pepper. Squeeze the juice of 
 a lemon over just before serving. 
 
ADDENDUM. 2109 
 
 Hareng’s a la Sainte Menehould. 
 
 Split and bone the herrings, let them lie in a 
 hittle milk for two hours, dry them, then dip 
 into a mixture of melted butter, yolks of eggs, 
 salt and pepper and sweet herbs, cover them 
 with brown crumbs of bread, fry gently and 
 serve with white wine vinegar. 
 
 Carrottes en Sauce. 
 
 Cut some carrots into thin slices lengthways, 
 and boil in salt and water till tender. It is 
 better to boil them whole and slice them after- 
 wards. Melt some butter in a saucepan, add a 
 little flour, lay in the carrots, season well, pour 
 on to a dish, sprinkle with finely chopped or 
 | dried parsley. Celery, parsnips, chicory, and 
 turnips may all be done the same way. 
 
 Pommes-de-Terre a la Créme. 
 
 Boil some potatoes in water till quite tender, 
 slice them, and put in a saucepan with butter, 
 parsley and chives minced, salt and pepper, and 
 acupful of cream. Let them boil gently, and 
 beat all the time with a wooden fork. 
 
220 ADDENDUM. 
 
 Salsifis Frits. 
 
 Boil the salsifys in water with vinegar and 
 salt till quite tender. Drain and dip them in 
 batter as prepared for apple fritters, then cover 
 with bread raspings, drop into boiling fat, and 
 cook for five minutes. Or they may be boiled, 
 drained, then covered with white sauce. 
 
 Betteraves Fricassées. 
 
 Pare and slice some beetroots, put them in the 
 sauté pan, with butter, chives and parsley, 
 chopped, a little garhe or minced shallots and a 
 sprinkling of flour, pepper and salt and a dash 
 of vinegar. Let them boil up for a few minutes, 
 then serve. Very good with either boiled or 
 baked beef. 
 
 Champignons a la Créme. 
 
 Place some mushrooms in the sauté pan, with 
 the same addition as above, add a little warm 
 water; when cooked add the yolks of two or 
 three eggs, and a cupful of cream. Let it boil 
 once, and then serve over fried bread. 
 
 Pudding a la Moelle. 
 
 Break four ounces of dried biscuits into a 
 glass of milk, mix with this the yolks of four 
 
ADDENDUM. 221 
 
 and whites of two eggs. Add two ounces of 
 powdered sugar, the marrow of a beef bone 
 minced, a glass of brandy, one of liqueur, and 
 a spoonful of potato flour. Let it boil till 
 thick, then pour into a buttered mould and 
 bake half an hour. 
 
 Pets de Nonne. 
 
 Put in a saucepan two teacupfuls of water, a 
 little sugar and essence of lemon. Gradually 
 sift in some flour, stirring all the time, add a 
 small lump of butter, and when a smooth paste 
 is obtained, take off the fire, and stir in two 
 egos thoroughly. Take small portions no larger 
 than a walnut, drop into boiling fat, let them 
 attain a golden colour, drain and roll in pow- 
 dered sugar. Serve with jelly. 
 
 Gateau d’Amandes. 
 
 Weigh several eggs in their shells, add the . 
 same weight of flour, butter and white sugar. 
 Pound the same weight of sweet almonds in 
 a mortar with a little lemon juice. . Beat the 
 eges, whites and yolks, together, add them to the 
 almonds, then the other ingredients. Mix all 
 smoothly together. - Butter a shallow mould and 
 
222 ADDENDUM. 
 
 pour in the mixture. Bake in the oven for 
 twenty minutes. ‘This makes an excellent foun- 
 dation for fancy cakes. 
 
 Compéte Blanche de Pommes. 
 
 Pare and quarter some russet apples, drop 
 them into boiling water with a few lumps of 
 sugar init. Let them cook till tender through, 
 but not broken. Arrange in a glass dish, then 
 add more sugar to the liquor to form a syrup, 
 and boil till it thickens, then pour over the 
 apples. 
 
 Pears may be blanched and done the same 
 way. Apricots done the same should have a 
 o'lass of sweet wine added to the syrup, and the 
 kernels should be blanched and thrown into it, 
 then poured over the fruit. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Apple Fritters . eG 
 Salad . Saye 
 Aromatics . j . 168 
 Asparagus tops, a la 
 Créme . : Pha DS 
 Aubergines, Farciies. 40 
 Grilled 4 ee at 
 Bean Salad. - . er o5 
 Beef . ; ~ 203-205 
 Olives . : . 182 
 Beetroots . : 2 ~220 
 Betteraves Fricassées 200 
 Bisque : : = 08 
 Blanquette de Veau . 209 
 Beeuf a la Daube near (5: 
 ala Mode . 203 
 au Four : . 204d 
 Bouillon . : oe a 
 Brioche 5 ; Jol ey 
 Brown Onion Soup . 21 
 
 Canard 4la Purée Verte 216 
 
 Canard aux Navets 
 Candied Fruit 
 Capsicum Salad . 
 Carré de Mouton 
 Carrots 
 Carrot Salad 
 
 Soup 
 Carrottes en Sauce 
 Cauliflowers— 
 
 “ Au Fromage” . 
 
 “Au Gratin” 
 Celery Salad 
 Champignons a 
 
 Créme : 
 Charlotte Russe . 
 Cheese Darioles . 
 
 Fondu . 
 
 Fricassée 
 
 Omelette 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Salads . 
 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Savoury Rice 
 
 la 
 
224 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Chestnut Soup 200 
 Chives 145 
 Chocolate Cream Ga- 
 teau : : ie OU) 
 Choux 4laCréme . Q1 
 Cod 217-218 
 Compotes— 
 Blanche de Pommes 222 
 Cherries 104 
 Pears 104 
 Plums. F 104. 
 Prunes. 104 
 Quinces 103 
 Remarks on ae! 
 Rhubarb 104 
 Straw berries 104 
 
 Conserve of Tomatoes 151 
 Cooking-vessels, French 10 
 
 Cotelettes de Pore 212 
 Créme Renversée 102 
 
 Sambayone . 102 
 Croquettes . ‘ Go 
 Cucumber Salad rhea | 
 
 Cucumbers, Stuffed . 40 
 
 Curried Vegetables— 
 Brown . ; - rae 
 White . ; AS 
 
 “ Daubieres”’ and ‘ Brai- 
 siéres,” Remarkson  1%5 
 
 Diplomate . : eo 
 Drunkard’s Broth 143 
 Pucks: 215-216 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Eclairs aux Chocolat. 91 
 
 Economy . 7 5 1 
 Eggs . : : Hig 
 ala Bonne Femme 172 
 auGratin . een bf 
 Entrées and Entremets, 
 Remarks on . ess 
 Entrées— 
 Pishaese ; Pee 3) 
 Meat . . « Lt4 
 Entremets . + EG 
 Epaule de Mouton . 207 
 Fast-day Dishes . 106 
 Fennel Salad Fo. Do 
 Filet de Mouton . Pee bi 
 Filets de Lapin . ee Es) 
 Fish— 
 Au Gratin . ~eue 
 Baked Cod . . ie 
 EP spades : Raed 3 bs 
 Halibut 4 la Créme 114 
 Halibut Steaks . 114 
 Mackerel and Her- 
 rings |; . ALG 
 
 Mayonnaise. Pinte © 1 
 Morue a la Hol- 
 
 landaise 118 
 
 Pickling . st 2kG 
 Fish— 
 
 Salmon Steaks 115 
 
 Flageolets au Beurre. 183 
 
 | Flat Fish Recipe 115 
 
INDEX. 225 
 
 PAGE 
 Flavoured Vinegars . 4 
 Fofe de Veau 210 
 Fowl 914 
 Frangipane. : oa 
 French Cooking-vessels 10 
 Kitchens . ; 9 
 Pancakes . ate y 
 Pie-crust 195 
 Stoves . : : 8 
 Fricandeaux ne 120 
 Fricassées and Re- 
 chauffées, Remarks 
 oe ; : aro 
 Fried Parsley . ray 
 Salsify . é a ee: 
 Fruit “ Glace” 162 
 Remarks on. 160 
 Salads . 160 
 Frying and “ Sauté”, 
 ing, Remarkson . 82 
 Galantines . ; Peso 
 Galette Cherbourgeoise 99 
 Lorraine ; eet oo 
 Gamekeeper’s Potage. 26 
 Game Salad : pee HG 
 Gateaux and Compotes, 
 Remarks on tals, 
 Gateau au Riz . ne oe 
 d’Abricots . peme cH) 
 d’Amandes . 221 
 
 d’Cufs au Vanille 101 
 Soufflé un Citron. 95 
 
 PAGE 
 Génoise Fourrée. 2 ee) 
 Gigot de Mouton 209 
 Green Artichokes, ‘a 
 la Barigoule” . pes 5) 
 Grilled Aubergines . 41 
 Ham . 211 
 Salad . , Se o0 
 Harengs a la Maitre 
 qd’ Hotel. 218 
 Haricot Bean Mayon- 
 naise ‘ : sna -B4 
 Pureé of ; ae 
 Haricot de Mouton 208 
 Hashes ide 
 Herrings 218-219 
 Imitation Game Pie . 195 
 Jambon a la Braise 211 
 a la Broche 211 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes, 
 ala Maitre Hotel. 36 
 
 in Sauce. tment 
 Soup . SG 
 Kidneys 193 
 Fritters . 194 
 Kitchens, French : 9 
 Langue de Boeuf 204 
 Lapin au Gite 212 
 en Assiette . 213 
 Sauté 214 
 
Luncheon, Remarks on 178 
 
 Macaroni 112 
 Mackerel S109 
 Maigre Dishes, Re- 
 marks on 106 
 Marasquin . 100 
 Mayonnaise 54 
 Meat Entrées 174 
 Menus. F 190 
 Morue a la Provencale 217 
 Fraiche aux Fines 
 Herbes 218 
 Mushrooms— 
 a la Poulette 156 
 a la Provengale 156 
 au Gratin 157 
 Ketchup 158 
 Omelette 158 
 Remarks on. 153, 220 
 Salad fae pe 
 Mutton 206-209 
 (Kufs 4 la Neige . 123 
 Omelettes— 
 au Fines Herbes . 122 
 au Rhum 123 
 au Sucre 122 
 
 226 INDEX. 
 PAGE 
 Leeks and Onions, Re- Omelettes— 
 marks on 140 Cheese . 
 Leek Soup . 201 Mushroom 
 ~Lentils, Purée of 25 Onion . 
 Lobster Salad 57 Remarks on. 
 
 Soufflée . 
 Onions and Leeks, Re- 
 marks on. 
 
 Ox Tail 
 
 Parsnips and Turnips, 
 Purée of . 
 Paté d’Eclair 
 Paté of Macaroni 
 Peas or Lentils, Purée 
 of -: : 
 Petits Pois . 
 Pets de Nonne 
 Pigeons : 
 en Surprise . 
 Pommes de Terre a la 
 Créme 
 Pork 
 Potage a la Crécy 
 a la Purée 
 au Lait. 
 au Potiron 
 aux Marrons 
 aux Poireaux 
 Boubillasse . 
 Printanier 
 Potatoes 
 Potato Salad 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Potato Soup 20 
 Poule 4 la Reine 215 
 Pouletsala Jardiniere 214 
 & Ja Montmorency 214 
 Poultry ala Daube . 78 
 Pudding 4 la Moelle . 220 
 Pumpkin Soup 201 
 Purées. 18 
 Purées of— 
 Carrots 26 
 Haricot Beans 24 
 Peas or Lentils 25 
 Turnips and Par- 
 snips. : oy 25 
 Quatre-quarts 101 
 Queue de Boouf . 205 
 Rabbit . 212-914 
 Ragotit of Mutton 128 
 Rissoles 85 
 Saint Honoré 100 
 Salad Dressings, Rules 
 for Mixing 58 
 Salads— 
 Apple . : 52 
 Bean : 53 
 Capsicum 50 
 Carrot . 51 
 Celery . 52 
 Cucumber 51 
 Fennel . 
 
 227, 
 PAGE 
 
 Salads— 
 Game . 56 
 tame es 56 
 Lobster att 
 Mushroom 54 
 Potato . 35) 
 Remarks on. 45 
 Sardine 55 
 Salsifis Frits 220 
 Salt Cod 108 
 Sardine Salad BD 
 
 Sauces— 
 au Confiture 13 
 au Jambon . 68 
 aux Citrons. “oa 
 Béchamel 68 
 Bordelaise 68 
 Dite Beurre Noir. 64 
 Financiere 69. 
 Green Mayonnaise 71 
 Horse Radish (2 
 Mayonnaise. ral 
 Blanche 70 
 Napolitaine . (3 
 Normande 66 
 Parisienne . 65 
 (sweet) . (2 
 Piquante 65 
 Poulette 66 
 Ravigote 67 
 Remarks on. 59 
 Robert . 65 
 Salmis . 69, 70 
 
228 
 
 Sauces— 
 Soubése ; 
 Tartare 
 Savarin ; 
 Sea Kale in Cream 
 Shin of Beef ; 
 Small Dinners, Re- 
 marks on. : 
 Snowballs in Tomatoes 
 Sole a4 la Normande 
 Sorrel . 
 Soup 
 Soups— 
 Artichoke 
 Brown Onion 
 Carrot . 
 Chestnut 
 Classified 
 Leek 
 Potato . 
 Pumpkin 
 Sorrel . 
 Spring . 
 Tomato. 
 Vermicelli 
 Watercress . : 
 White Stock : 
 Spinach 
 alaCreme . 
 en Croustades 
 Spring Soup 
 Stews . 
 Stoves, French 
 
 INDEX. 
 PAGE | PAGE 
 Stuffed Cucumbers 40 
 66 Tomatoes 149 
 67 | Supper Dishes, Re- 
 98 marks on 193 
 84 | Sweetbreads 197 
 15 | Sweet Entremets. 176 
 Sweet Pickle ae 
 185 
 149 | Tarte . “oes 
 109 | Timbale of Macaroni. 124 
 132 | Tomatoes— 
 188 Conserve ok: 
 Farcis . men Ge 
 26 Mayonnaise. 150 
 Pal Purée 147 
 202 Remarks on. 146 
 200 Soup 22, 148 
 14 Stuffed . 149 
 201 | Tongue 204 
 20 | Turnips and Parsnips, 
 201 Purée of . 25 
 138 
 201 | Veal . 209-211 
 22 | Vegetable Pies 48 
 23 | Vegetables, Curried AQ 
 22 | Vegetables, Remarks 
 24 Ol see : 28 
 134 | Vermicelli Soup. 23 
 136 | Vol-au-vents 172 
 135 | 
 201 | Watercress . ; Woe 
 ris) Soup . . Bias 
 8 | White Stock Soup 24 
 
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