aN VES KOS ( OOO i ROAD yas i) oo r ® a ae ; ‘ Boge 8 i) 7 ‘ 7, ad » ee Te FA Rye 4 - Bs < ;, ae t9 t - , 4 r a fae aS AR Pe ay i ive . nig Mir ha , Ve Ps ~ 4 ‘ -! : Se ae ‘ C : ony tected ee AI a a % 4 FE A ga ae i i ie aie 2 We x Pepe ¥ ? - *, io ts ’ ie geogy & We ts ka é , m5 4 ARR MURS : q *, Y a is iC POCEEE HR. , F oe , . + a ae t } ‘ ”~ a ‘ i I t ” \ f : rf 4 5 : j ifs ; COOK'S ORACLE: RECEIPTS FOR PLAIN COOKERY ON THE i MOST ECONOMICAL PLAN FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES: Broths, Cirabies, Canal Sauces, Store feat - AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES: The Quantity of each Article is _ ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND MEASURE; THE WHOLE BEING THE RESULT OF Actual Erpertnents INSTITUTED IN THE KITCHEN OF A PHYSICIAN, ——o—— Miscuit utile Dulce.” Bak ee Sai THE THIRD EDITION, WHICH IS ALMOST ENTIRELY RE-WRITTEN: LONDON: PRINTED FOR A. CONSTABLE & Co. EDINBURGH; AND HURST, ROBINSON, & Co. CHEAPSIDE, And sold also by all Booksellers in Town and Country. 1821. fh it oOo v césaiet 107 oe Re a: an hes age LER a y Pe a OER RLS ‘STA vines ae en 2. ns By Kiet. ‘ae eee es ote eee oe va ee CBP MIT ch eid a at Au? a b a Matt Paid ee IR sek sUORe z el , a) oe ew. z ‘ abd eioee nw ble Oy Se atttae a ( sinh ened nS eee ea rcpt Wier HOw “EE. dugildetie : ra or iy ‘ Sa z) eo 7 a - Al oe Pkt ! lat e aS ny a & Bais ee ‘2% S55 Ene. Ses. o ? Mie Seg ee Bo athe wet aeae ions ec ice od hh ee: doa i a ene imi’) PEM isis wre 4h a 2 . f ie : eo a ! ; Pty ‘SES ’ ives eG Ps ; - Panis ib ete “LONDON: “ye a erg Dhek: a eee "PRINTED BY J. MOVES; GREVILLE STREET, a 7 rR “e , i a a oy: mtg | | Mn CONTENTS. PREFACE *eecesrecceeccrvcccssccccses ove INTRODUCTION eeece cccccccscscnccccrves ee Culinary Curiosities eecece ceccee covece scenes Invitations to Dinner ei? * eevee ce 0000 ©8888 Be Carving «<-> coeccee: wesc coeeee e@eeecs ce Friendly Advice to Cooks ++++sesessceeesece Table of Weights, &C. wa Ps eavece seve be Wools ee RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHapTeR 1. Boiling soccee cece cccscesseecs Baking TOrerrrer ere re ere MMe Noasting (i.0sccccecsserstevees eae ee oe Frying sscece ss ccsees eeceve ca2e8 me eae Broiling COCO CHOHOSE BHCC ES OHH FE = 5. Vegetables Ceoevesecosvevrescorse seve — 6, Fishee e@eoecoea@ ececeeereeseeeee ee ee 082 — 7, Broths and Soup (eC eceeeeeserece — 8. Gravies and Sauces «cee -rceesces SEE reese © Made Dishes cece 2eee PG a Receipts eoerewnereeaeeoesene ee enn Marketing Tables -++s++ sesese- Index eevee teoesevseeveeoeseeses eee a2 1 33 - 38 103 106 108 112 116 132 140 142 - 44] 447 Just Published, by the Editor of this Work, THE ART OF INVIGORATING. AND PROLONGING aie sas. «ep fas oe SF 2 oe e eee OP e he we ‘eee * @ 612 © @ AGREEABLE AND. EFFECTUAL METHODS TO, PREVENT AND RELIEVE INDIGESTION, sea vee ee 4 STOMACH. AND ‘BOWELS. Suaviter in modo, sed fortiter i a res ' SECOND EDITION. : Donon: PRINTED FOR HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. 90, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON; A. CONSTABLE AND co., EDINBURGH. 1821. PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. Amonée the multitude of causes which concur to impair Health, and produce Disease, the most general is the improper quality of our Food, this, most frequently, arises from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared ;—yet, strange, “‘ passing strange,” this, is the only one, for which a remedy has not been sought ;—and few persons | bestow half so much attention on the preservation of their own Health,—as they daily devote to that of their Dogs and Horses. The observations of the Guardians of Health respecting Regimen, &c. have formed no more than a Catalogue of those articles of Food, which they have considered most proper for particular Constitutions. Some Medical writers, have ‘in good set terms” warned us against the pernicious effects of im- ad vl PREFACE. proper Diet ; but not One has been so kind, as to take the érivabl to dixect us Pow to prepare food properly. avi The. Editor has endeavoured to write the fol- lowing Receipts so plainly, that they may be as easily understood in the Kitchen as He trusts they will be relished in the Dining Room —and has been more ambitious to present to the Public, a Work which will contribute to the daily Comfort of All—than to seem elaborately Scientific. The practical part of the philosophy of the Kitchen, is certainly not the most agreeable ;— Gastrology has its full share’ of those great impe- diments to all great improvements in scientific pursuits,—the prejudices of the Ignorant,—and the misrepresentations of the Envious. | The Sagacity to comprehend’ and estimate the importance of uncontemplated improvement— is confined to the very few, on whom Nature has bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the Sense which is to measure it;—the candour to make a fair report of it is still more uncommon,— and the kindness to encourage it—cannot often be expected from those, whose most vital interest it is to prevent the developement of that by which their own importance — perhaps their only means PREFACE. Vil of Existence — may be for ever eclipsed —soas Pope says— jodie wousangl “All fear, — None aid you, — and Few understand.” mM Improvements in Agriculture and the Breéd of Cattle have been encouraged by Premiunis ; — ~ (see Note under (No. 19.) and under (No. 59.) Those who have obtained them, have been hailed as benefactors to Society,—but the Art of making use of these means of ameliorating Life, and supporting a healthy Existence — Cooxery, has been neglected. ‘ While the cultivators of the raw materials are distinguished and rewarded,—the attempt to im- prove the processes, without which, neither Vegetable nor Animal substances are fit for the food of Man (astonishing to. say), has been | ridiculed,—as unworthy the attention of a rational Being!!! This most useful * Art, — which the Editor has chosen to endeavour to illustrate, because nobody else has—and because he knew not how he could employ some leisure hours more beneficially for Mankind,—than to teach them to combine the * “ The only test of the utility of Knowledge, is its promoting the happiness of mankind.”— Dr. Starx on Diet, p. 90. Vili PREFACE. “ utile” with the “ dulce,” and to increase. their pleasures, without impairing their Health or im- poverishing their Fortune — has been for many Years his favorite employment, and “Tur Art OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE} BY Diet anv RecimMen,” &c. and this Work,—have insensibly become repositories, for whatever Ob- servations he has made, which he thought would make us—Live happier or Live longer. The. Editor has considered the Arr of CooxERy, not merely as a mechanical operation, fit only for working Cooks—but as the Analepitic part of the Art of Physic, ‘* How best the fickle fabric to support ‘¢ Of mortal man, —in healthful body how “A healthful mind, the longest to maintain.” ARMSTRONG. is an Occupation —neither unbecoming nor un- worthy, Philosophers of the highest class :—such only, can comprehend its Importance,— which amounts to no less, than not only the enjoyment of the present moment, but the more precious * A new Edition of this is just published, by Hurst, Robinson, and Co. Cheapside, and A. Constable and Co. Edinburgh. s PREFACE. ix advantage, of improving and preserving HeAtrn, and prolonging Lirzr—which depend on duly replenishing the daily waste of ‘the human frame with materials which are pregnant with Nutriment, and easy of Digestion. If Medicine be ranked among those Arts which dignify their Professors—Cookery may lay claim to an equal, if not a superior distinction ;— to prevent Diseases,—is surely a more advantageous Art to Mankind, than to cure them. ‘Physi- cians should be good Cooks, at least in Theory.”— Dr. Maw dEviuiE on Hypochondriasis, p. 316. The learned Dr. ARBUTHNOT observes in page 3 of the preface to his Essay on Aliment, that “ the choice and measure of the materials of which our Body is composed, and what we take daily by Pounds, is at least of as much importance, as what we take ‘seldom, and ie by grains and spoonsful.” Those in whom the Organ of Taste is obtuse,— or who have been brought'up in the happy habit of being content with humble fare,—whose Health is so firm, that it needs no artificial adjustment ; who with the appetite of a Cormorant, have the digestion of an Ostrich,—and* eagerly devour whatever is set before them, without asking any x PREFACE. questions about what it is, and how it has-been -prepared—may perhaps imagine that the Editor has.sometimes been: rather overmuch refining the business’ of the Kitchen. ‘¢ Where Ignorance:is bliss,—’tis Folly to be wise.” — But, few are so fortunate, as to be trained up to understand how well it is worth their while to cultivate such habits of Spartan forbearance,—we cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome precepts, in a higher degree—than by disarmmg Luxury of its sting—and making the refinements of Modern Cookery, minister not merely to’sen- sual gratification, — but at the same time support the pipetanien excitement of “ mens sana, in ccorpore. sano.’ The Delicate and the Nervous, oo have unfor- tunately a sensitive palate, and have been accustomed to a luxurious. variety of savoury Sauces, and highly seasoned Viands—Those who from the. infirmity of Age, are become incapable of correcting habits, created by absurd indulgence in Youth,:are entitled to some: consideration — and, for their sake,—the Elements of Opsology are explained in the most intelligible-manner. PREFACE. XI » By reducing Culinary operations to something hike a certainty, an Invalid will be less indebted to chance, or the caprice of careless attendants, Kc. whether he shall recover— and! Live long, and comfortably — or speedily — Die of gabon in the midst of Plenty. ~ These Rules and orders for the regulation of the business of the Kitchen have been extremely bene- ficial to the Editor’s own Health and Comfort.— He hopes they will be equally so to others,— they will help those who enjoy Health, to preserve it—teach those who have delicate and. irritable Stomachs, how to keep them in good temper— and with alittle discretion enable them to indulge occasionally, not only with impunity, but with advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which a rational Epicure* can desire. There is no Question more frequently asked or which a Medical’ man finds more difficulty. in answering to the satisfaction of Himself and, his Patient than— What do you -wish me to eat? The most judicious choice of Aliment will avail nothing, unless the Culinary preparation of it be * For the Editor’s definition of this term, see the note in page 5 of the following Introduction. yh ete em ee el ey sg * Xi PREFACE. equally judicious.—How often, is the skill of a pains-taking Physician counteracted by want. of corresponding attention to the preparation of Food—and the poor Patient, instead of deriving Nourishment—is distressed by Indigestion. - ParmEnTiER, in his Code Pharmaceutique, has: given a chapter, on, the preparation of Food— some of the following Receipts, are offered as an humble attempt to form a sort of APPENDIx TO THE PHarmMacoPra@ia — lke. pharmaceutic prescriptions they are precisely adjusted by weight and. measure,— and in. future, by ordering such Receipts of the Cook’s ORACLE as appear adapted to the case—the recovery of the Patient, and the credit of the Physician, as far as relates to the administration’. of Aliment,—need no longer— depend on the discretion of the Cook.— For in- stance: Mutton Broth, (No. 490 or 564) ; Toast and Water, (No. 463) ; Water Gruel, (No: 572); Beef. Tea, (No. 563); and PorrasBue Soup, (No. 252), This concentrated Essence of Meat—will be found a great acquisition to the comfort of the Army — the Navy —the Traveller—and the Invalid — by dissolving half an Ounce of it in half a pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes, half a Pint of good Broth for three halfpence. PREFACE. X11 He has also circumstantially detailed, the easiest, least expensive, and most salubrious methods of preparing those highly finished Soups —Sauces—Ragouts—and prquante relishes, which the most ingenious “ Officers of the Mouth,” have invented for the amusement of thorough bred “Grands Gourmands.” It has been his aim, to render Food acceptable to the Palate;—without being expensive to the Purse, or offensive to the Stomach—nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting,—constantly endeavouring to hold the balance even between the agreeable and the wholesome—the Epicure and the Economist. In thisTuirp Edition, which is almost entirely re-written; — He has not printed one Recetpt—that has not been proved in His own Kitchen—which has not been approved by several of the most accomplished’ Cooks in this Kingdom — and has moreover, been eaten with unanimous applause by a Committee of Taste, composed of some of the most illustrious Gastropholists of this luxurious Metropolis. The Editor hasbeen materially assisted by Mr. Henry Oszorne, the excellent Cook to the late Sir Josupu Banks :—that worthy President of the Royal Society, was so sensible of the im- b XLV PREFACE. portance of the subject the Editor was investi- vating—that He sent his Cook to assist him in his arduous task— and many of the Receipts in this Third Edition, are much improved by his al tions and corrections. See (No. 560.) | This is the only English Cookery Book which has been written from the Real Experiments of a HovusEKEEPER, for the benefit of Houses- KEEPERS,— which the reader will soon perceive, by the minute attention that has been employed to elucidate and improve the Arr or PLAIN CooxEery,—detailing many particulars and pre- cautions, which may at first appear frivolous—but which experience will prove to be essential—to teach a common Cook how to provide, and to prepare common Food—so frugally, and so per- fectly, that the plain Family Fare of the most” Economica HousEKEEPER may, with scarcely any additional trouble — be a sattsfactory Enter- tainment for an Epicure or an INVALID. To facilitate which, He has at the end of his work given MarKxetTine TaBuies, showing the time of the year, when the several kinds of Fish — Poultry —and Vegetables—are CHEAPEST. By an attentive consideration of “THE Ru- DIMENTS OF CooKERy,” and the respective Receipts—-the most ignorant Novice in the business ~ PREFACE. XV of the Kitchen—may work with the utmost facility and certainty of SUCCESS, — and soon become A Goop Cook. Will all the other Books of Cookery that ever were printed do this?—To give his readers an opportunity of applying the test of comparison, he has given a list of upwards of Two HunpREpD Cookery Books, (see page 24) — which he pa- tiently pioneered through, before he set about re- cording these results of his own Experiments!!! Srore Sauces and many articles of Domestic Comfort, which are extravagantly expensive to purchase, and can very seldom be procured genuine—He has given plain directions how to prepare at Home—of infinitely finer flavour, and considerably cheaper than they can be obtained ready-made :—for example, Musuroom Carsup, (No. 439.) Essence oF CE LEry, (No. 409.) — Awncuovy, (No. 433.) ————— Sweet Heres, (No. 417.) — Lemon PEEL, (No. 408.) — Savoury Spice, (No. 421, and 457, 459, 460.) —————. GinGER, (No. 411. CaYENNE PrEppER, (No. 404.) XV1 PREFACE. Curry Powper, (No. 456.) EsHattor Wing, (No. 402.) PorTABLE Soup, (No. 252.) &c., &c., &c., and see page 119. Thus, the table of the most Economical Family, may, by the help of this Book—be served with as much delicacy and salubrity, as that of a Sovereign Prince,—and the comforts of the Opulent, are brought within the reach of the Middle Ranks of Society. INTRODUCTION. | Tur following Receipts are not a mere marrowless collection of shreds, and patches, and cuttings, and pastings ;—but a bond fide register of Practical Facts,— accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued, or evaporated, by the igniferous terrors of a Roasting Fire in the Dog-days,—in defiance of the odoriferous and califacient repellents, of Roasting,—Boiling,— Frying,—and Broiling :—moreover, the author — has submitted to a labour no preceding Cookery-Book- maker, perhaps, éver attempted to encounter—having eaten each Receipt, before he set it down in his book. They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufh- ciently well educated Palate, and a rather fastidious Stomach ;—perhaps this certificate of the reception of the respective preparations—will partly apologize for the Book containing a smaller number of them, than preceding writers on this gratifying subject, have transcribed,—for the amusement of “ every man’s Master,” the STO. ACH*. * “The SromacH is the Grand Organ of the human system, upon the state of which, all the powers and feelings of the Individual depend.”—See HUNTER’s Culina, p. 13. “The faculty the Stomach has of communicating the impressions made by the various substances that are put into it, is such, that it seems more like a nervous expansion from the Brain, than amere receptacle for Food,”— «Dr. WaTERHOUSE’s Lecture on Health, p. 4. B Z Y INTRODUCTION. Numerous as are the Receipts in former Books, they vary little from each other, except in the name given to them; the processes of Cookery are very few,—I have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain and circumstantial a manner, as I hope will be easily un- derstood, even by the Amateur, who is unacquainted with the practical part. of Culinary concerns. Oxp Hovsexerrens may think I have been tediously minute on many points, which may appear-trifling ;— my Predecessors seem to have considered the Rup MENTS OF CooKERY quite unworthy of attention. _ These little delicate distinctions, constitute all the difference between a common and an elegant Table, and are not trifles to the Youne HousEKEEPER, who must learn them either from the communication of others,—or blunder on till his own slowly-accumulating and dear-bought experience teaches him. A wish to save Time, Trouble, and Money, to inex- perienced Housekeepers and Cooks,—and to bring the enjoyments and indulgencies of the Opulent within reach of the middle Ranks of Society,—were my motives for publishing this book ;—I could accomplish it, only by supposing the Reader, (when he first opens it,) to be as ignorant of Cookery,—as 1 was when I first thought of writing on the subject*. * “© De toutes les Connaissances nécessaires 4 ’humanité souffrante } la plus agréable, la plus importante ala conservation des hommes, et a la perpétuité de toutes les jouissances de la nature, c’est la parfaite connaissance des alimens destinés 4 former notre constitution, a fortifier tous nos membres, a ranimer ces organes destinés a la perfection des sens, et a étre les mecistne des talens, de l’esprit, du génie, &c. &c. C’est du suc exprimé de nos fluides alimentaires, qu’est formé le tissu de notre fréle machine; c’est au chyle qui en provient, que notre sang, nos chairs, nos nerfs, nos organes, et tous nos sens, doivent leur existence et leur sensibilité.” INTRODUCTION. 3 I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow-creatures:—by a careful attention to the directions herein given, the most ignorant may easily learn to prepare Food—not only in an agreeable and wholesome,—but in an elegant and economical manner. ; This task, seems to have been left for me, and I have endeavoured to collect and communicate in the clearest and most intelligible manner, the whole of the heretofore abstruse Mysteries of the Culinary Art; which are herein, I hope, so plainly developed, that the most inexperienced student in the occult Art of Cookery, may work from my Receipts, with the utmost facility. IT am perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty, of teaching those who are entirely unacquainted with the subject, and of explaining my ideas effectually by mere Receipts, to those who never shook hands with a Stew- pan. In my anxiety to be readily understood,—I have per- haps been under the necessity of occasionally repeat- ing the same directions, in different parts of the book : but I would rather be censured for repetition, than for obscurity,—and hope I shall not be accused of Affectation, while my intention is Perspicuity. Our neighbours in France, are so justly famous for | their skill in the affairs of the Kitchen, that the adage says, “‘ ds many Frenchmen, as many Cooks,” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious Wines, and seducing Liqueurs offering every temptation to render drunkenness delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a “* rara avis.” B2 4 INTRODUCTION. _ They know how so easily to keep Life in sufficient repair by good eating, that they. require little or no screwing up with liquid Stimulii—This accounts for that “‘ toujours gai,” and happy equilibrium of the ani- mal spirits, which they enjoy with more regularity tha® any people :—their elastic Stomachs unimpaired by Spirituous Liquors, digest vigorously, the food they sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable, by cooking it sufficiently,—wisely contriving to get half the work of the Stomach done by Fire and Water, till — | ‘* The tender morsels on the palate melt, ** And all the force of Cookery is felt.’”* See Nos. 5 and 238, &c. The cardinal virtues of Cookery, “ CLEANLINESS, FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PALATEABLENESS, preside over each preparation ; for I have not presumed to insert a single composition, without previously obtaining the ‘ zmprimatur” of an enlightened and in- defatigable ‘‘ COMMITTEE OF TASTE,” (composed of thorough-bred GRaNDS GOUkMANDS of the first magnitude,) whose cordial co-operation 1 cannot too highly praise; and here do I most- gratefully record the unremitting zeal they manifested during. their arduous progress of proving the respective Recipes,;— they were so truly philosophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wear and tear of teeth and stomach, that their Labour—appeared a Pleasure to them.— Their laudable perseverance,—which has. enabled me to give the inexperienced Amateur an unerring and economical Guide, how to, excite as much pleasure as __ possible on the Palate, and occasion as little trouble as INTRODUCTION. 5 possible to the Principal Viscera, has hardly been exceeded by those determined spirits who lately in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme of tempera- ture, &c. in spite of Whales, Bears, Icebergs, and Starvation. | Every attention has been paid in directing the proportions of the following Compositions, not merely to make them inviting to the Appetite, but agree- able and useful to the Stomach;—nourishing without being inflammatory, and ‘savoury without being sur- feiting. — I have written principally for those who make Nourishment the chief end of Eating*, and do not de- * JT wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mortals, in as easy and simple a manner, as it is in “‘ the Cooking Animals in the Moon,” who “ lose no time at their meals; but open their left side, and place the whole quantity at once in their stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next month, for they never indulge themselves with food more thau twelve times in a year.’—See Baron MUNCHAUSEN’S Travels, p. 188. Pleasing the Palate is the main end in most books of Cookery, but it is my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome ; for, after all, however the hale Gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion, the latter, is the chief concern; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating, as to think of no other, still the care of his Health becomes part of that; if he is Sick, he cannot relish his Food. “The term Gourmand or Ericux®, has been strangely perverted; it has been conceived synonimons with a Glutton, “ 2é pour la digestion,” who will eat as long as he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, nor leave his cup while he can fift it; or like the great eater of Kent whom FULLER places among his Worthies, and tells us that he did eat with ease, thirty dozens of Pidgeons at one meal,—at another four score Ravdbits, and eighteen Yards of Black-Pudding, Londen Measure! !—or a fastidious Appetite, only to be excited by fantastic Dainties, as the brains of Peacocks or Parrots, the tongues of Thrushes or Nightingales, or the teats of a lactiferous Sow. “In the acceptation which I give to the term Epicure, it means only the - person who has good sense and good taste enough, to wish to have his food cooked according to scientific principles; that is to say, so prepared, that the 6 INTRODUCTION. sire to provoke Appetite, beyond the powers and ne- cessities of Nature ;—proceeding however on the purest Epicurean principles of indulging the Palate, as far as it can be done without injury or offence to the Sto- mach—and forbidding* nothing, but what is absolutely unfriendly to Health. This is. by no means so difficult a bash, as some gloomy philosophers (uninitiated in culinary science) have tried to make the world believe—who seem to have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that sent palate be not offended—that it be rendered easy of solution in the Stomach, and ultimately contribute to Health; exciting him as an animal, to the vigorous enjoyment of those ranean and duties, physical and intellectual, which constitute the happiness and dignity of his nature.” For this illustra- tion I am indebted to my scientific friend Apicitus Celius, Jun., with whose erudite observations several pages of this work are enriched, to which Ihave affixed the signature A. C. Jun. ; * « Although air is more immediately necessary, to life than food, the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance; it admits certainly of great variety, and a choice is more frequently in our power. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been recommended.as most conducive to Health; but it would be more beneficial to mankind if we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet, was equally consistent with health, as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the Miller of Essex, These and other abstemious people, who, having experienced the greatest extremities of bad ‘ health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simple diet; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former sufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere in so strict a course of abstinence; which, persons who are in health, and have no such apprehension, could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue. ** In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human nature; the desires and appetites of mankind, must to a certain degree be gratified, and the Man who wishes to be most useful, will imitate the indulgent Parent, who whilst he endeavours to promote the true interests of his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in. If it could be pointed out to mankind, that some articles used as food were hurtful, while others were in their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which were: hurtful, and confine themselves to those which were innocent.”—See Dr. STaRK’s Experiments on Diet, 2. &9 and 90. INTRODUCTION. ae” | ig nice. must be noxious; and that evary thing that is nasty, is wholesome. But as worthy William Shakespeare declared he never found a philosopher who could. endure the Tooth-ach patiently,—the Editor protests that he has not yet overtaken one, who did not love a Feast. ‘Those Cynical Slaves,—who are so silly,—as to sup- pose it unbecoming a wise man, to indulge in the common comforts of Life—should be answered in the words of the French. philosopher. ‘‘ Hey—-What—do you Philosophers eat dainties?” said a gay Marquess. *¢ Do you think,” replied Descartes, ‘ that God made good things only for Fools?” Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void of understanding, is an Epicure in his own way— the Epicures in boiling of Potatoes are innumerable— the perfection of all enjoyment, depends on the perfec- tion of the faculties of the Mind and Body—the Temperate man, is the greatest Epicure,—and the only true Voluptuary. THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE, haye been highly appreciated, and carefully cultiyated in all Countries — and in all Ages*,—and in spite of all the Stoics,—every one will allow they are the first and the last we enjoy, —- and those we taste the oftenest,—above a Thousand times ina Year, every Year of our Lives!!! THE SToMACcH, is the mainspring of our System,—if it be not sufficiently wound up to warm the Heart, and support the Circulation,—the whole business of Life, * See a curious account in CouRS GASTRONOMIQUE, p. 145, and in Anacharsis’ Travels, Robinson—1796.—Vol. ii. ps 58, and Obs. and note under No. 493. ~ - 8 INTRODUCTION. will in proportion be ineffectively performed,—we can neither Think with precision,—Sleep with tranquilli ty Walk with vigour,—or sit down with comfort: a There would be no difficulty in proving, that’ ‘it influences (much more than people in wisi imagine) all our actions:—the destiny of Nations has often depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of a Prime Minister*—see @ very curious Anecdote in the Memoirs of Count ZrnpsEN porFF in Dodsley’s Annual Register for 1762. 3d Edition, p. 32. mene Te philosopher Pythagoras, seems to hate see extremely nice in eating,—among his absolute injunc- tions to his disciples, he commands them, to “ abseaia from Beans.” This ancient Sage, has been imitdted by the learned who have diceoursed on this subject since—who are liberal of their negative—and niggardly of their posi- tive precepts—in the ratio, that it is easier to tell you not to do this, than to teach you how to do that.. _ Our great English moralist Dr. S.. Jonnson, ‘his biographer Boswell tells us, ‘‘was a man of very nice discernment in the science of Cookery,” and talked of good eating, with uncommon satisfaction. ‘‘ Some people,” said he, ‘‘ have a foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to mind what they eat: for my part, I mind my Belly very studiously and very. carefully, and I look upon it, that he who does not mind his Belly, will hardly mind any thing else.” . The Dr. might have said, cannot mind any thie else—the energy of our Brains is sadly dependent: On * See the 2d, 3d, and 4th pages of Sir Wm. TEmMPLeE’s Essay on the Cure of the Gout by Moxa. INTRODUCTION. 9 the behaviour of our Bowxzis*—those who say "Tis no matter what we eat or what we drink,—may as well | say, "Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink. The following Anecdote I copy from BosweEL’s Life of JouNnson. Johnson.—“ I could write a Bétted Book of Cookery than has ever yet been written;—it should be a book on philosophical principles.—I would tell what is the best Butcher's Meat—the proper seasons of different Vegetables—and then, how to roast, and boil, and to compound.” Dilly.—** Mrs. Glasse’s Cookery, which is the best, was written by Dr. Hit.” Johnson.—“ Well, Sir—this shows how much better the subject of Cookery + may be treated by a Philoso- phert{;—but you shall see what a book of Cookery I _* © He that would have a clear head, must have a clean Stomach.”— Dr. GHEYNE on Health, 8vo. 1724, p. 34. *“ Tt is sufficiently manifest how much uncomfortable feelings of the Bowels, affect the Nervous System, and how immediately and completely the general disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation.”—p. 53. ** We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the Nervous System, whilst there is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no per- manent source of strength, but from the digestion of our food, it becomes important on this account, that we should attend to its quantity, quality, and the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its proper digestion.”— ABERNETHY’s Sur. Obs. 8vo. 1817, p. 65. t “* If Science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, it must be in this department; the real comfort of the majority of men in this country is sought for at their own fire-side; how desirable does it then become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the means of Philosophy to increase Domestic Happiness !”’—SYLVESTER’s Philosophy of Domestic Economy, 4to. 1819, p. 17. ~The best Books of Cookery have been written by Physicians :—Sir KENELME DigByY—Sir THEODORE MayERNE—Professor BRADLEY—Dr. HILL—Dr. Le Cointe—Dr. Hunrer, &c. BS 10 -INTRODUCTION. shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Pillpifor the Copyright.” | - Miss Seward.—“ That stivulid be aku with. the distaff indeed !”— ‘Pr Johnson.—* No, Madam; Women can spin very well,—but they cannot make a good Book of Coeery See vol. ii. p. 311. Mr. B. adds, “« ze: never knew a man ee relished good eating more than he did: when at Table, he was. totally absorbed in the business. of the moment: nor would he, unless in very high company, say one word, “To understand THE THEORY OF COOKERY, we must attend to the action of heat upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as applied directly andindirectly through the medium of some fiuid, in the former way as exemplified.” Inthe processesof ROASTING and BOILING, the chief constituents of animal substances undergo the following changes—the Fibrine is corrugated, the Albwmen coagulated, the Gelatine and Osmazome rendered more soluble in water, the Faé liquefied, and the Water evaporated. “‘ Tf the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes first brown, and then scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibre becomes opaque, shorter, firmer, and drier; the tendons less opaque, softer, and gluey ; the fat is either melted out, or rendered semi-transparent. Animal finids become more transparent; the albumen is coagulated and separated, and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome. ‘¢ Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the immediate object of all Cookery, the meat loses the vapid nauseons smell and taste pecaliar to its raw state, and it becomes savoury and grateful. “ Heat applied through the intervention of boiling oil, or melted fat, as in FRYING, produces nearly the same changes; as the heat is sufficient to evaporate the water, and to induce a degree of scorching. «© But when water is the medium through which heat is applied—as in BoLLING, STEWING, and BAKING, the effects are somewhat different, as the heat never exceeds 212°, which is not sufficient to commence the process of browning or decomposition, and the soluble constituents are removed, by being dissolved in the water, forming soup or broth; or, if the direct contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved in the juices of the meat, and separate in the form of Gravy.” Vide Supplement to Encyclop. Brit. Edin. vol. iv. p. 344, the Article ' Foon,” to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on the subject that we have seen. Tee INTRODUCTION. ll ‘or even pay the least attention to what was said by ‘others, till he had satisfied his Appetite.” The peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those of his character: Luxury and Intemperance are relative terms—depending on other circumstances than mere quantity and quality.—Nature gave him an excellent Palate, and a craving appetite,—and his intense application rendered large supplies of nourish- ment absolutely necessary to recruit his exhausted Spirits. The fact is,—this Great Man had found out, that Animal, and Intellectual Vigour*, are much more entirely dependent upon each other,—than is commonly under- stood ;— especially, in those constitutions, whose diges- tive and chylopoetic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune, or absorb the “ pabulum vite” indolently and imperfectly,—with such, it is only now and then, that the “ sensorium commune’ vibrates with the full tone of accurately considerative, or creative energy. Thus does the Hzatru always,—and very often the Lirz of Invalids, and those who have weak and infirm Stomacus, depend upon the care and skill of the Coox.—Our Forefathers were so sensible of this,—that in days of Yore,—no man of consequence thought of making a day’s journey without taking his ‘‘ MacisteR Coquvorum” with him. The rarity of this talent, in a high degree—is so well SO na tases * “ Health, Beauty, Strength and Spirits, and I might add all the faculties of the Mind, depend upon the Organs of the Body; when these are in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the contrary when they are ~ disturbed or diseased.”—Dr. CADOGAN on Nursing Children, 8vo. 1757, p. 5. 12 INTRODUCTION. ‘understood, that besides very considerable pecuniary compensation, his Majesty’s first and second Cooks* are now Esquires by their oftice;—we have» every reason to suppose they were persons of ae ci heretofore. In Dr. Pegge’s “ Fowiil of Cury,” 8vo. Sipslbiie 1780, we read, that when Cardinal Otto, the Pope’s Legate, was at Oxford, A.D. 1248, his brother officiated as ““ MaGistTeER Coquing&.” © This important post, has meer hata held as a situa- tion of high trust and confidence; and the “« Maenus ‘Coguus,” Anglicé, the Master Kitchiner, has, tithe immemorial, been: an Officer of considerable ein ii in the palaces of Princes. The Cook in PLautus ( Pseudol) is called ‘ Hovis num servatorem,” the preserver of mankind; and by Mercier “un Médecin. qui guérit radicalement. dewx maladies mortelles ; la Faim at la Soif.” The Norman Conqueror Wiiu1aM bestowed kcal portions of Land on these highly favoured domestics, the “ Coguorum Prepositus,” and “ Coquus REeeius,” —a Manor was bestowed on Robert Argyllon. the ““Granp QueEux” to be held by the following service. See that venerable Record, the Doomsday Book. “¢ Addington—Co. Surrey. | “‘ Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate a Lange in Addington in the County of Surrey, fo) the service > of #« We have some good families in England of the name of Cook or Coke. I know not what they may think ; but we may depend upon it, ‘they all originally sprang from real and professional Cooks; and they need not be ashamed .of their extraction, any more than the Butlers, Parkers, §c.’— PEGGE, Forme of Cury, p. 162. INTRODUCTION. 13 making one mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our Lord the Kine, on the day of his coronation, called De la Groute,” i. e.akind of Plum porridge, or Watergruel with Plums in it. This dish is still served up at the Royal Table, at Coronations, by the Lord of the said Manor of Addington. At the Coronation ‘of King merenee IV., Court of Claims, July 12, 1820. “« The petition of the Archbishop of CanTerBurRy, which was presented by Sir G. Naylor, claiming to perform the service of presenting a dish of De da Groute to the K1ne at the banquet, was considered by the Court, and decided to be allowed.” A good Dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life;—and as the practice of Cookery is at- tended with so many discouraging difficulties*, so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who encounter them, to procure us pleasure, and to reward their attention, by rendering their situation every way as comfortable and agreeable as we can. Mere money is a very inadequate compensation to a COMPLETE Coox ;—he who has preached Integrity to those in the * It is said, there are SEVEN chances against even the most simple dish being presented to the Mouth in absolute perfection ; for instance a Leg OF MUTTON. : 1st.—The Mutton must be gved, 2d.—Must have been kept a good time, 3d.—Must be roasted ata good fire, - 4th.—By a good Cook, 5th.—Who must be in good temper, 6th.—With all this felicitous combination you must have good luck, and 7th.—Good Appetite.—The Meat, and the Mouths which are to eat it, must be ready for each other, at the same moment! 14 INTRODUCTION. Kitchen,—(see “ Advice to Cooks”) may be permitted to recommend Liberality to those in the Parlour tiotlony are indeed the sources of each other, § ~ Depend upon it, “‘77rue Self-Love ane Sociedettine the same ;” ‘* Do as you would be done by ;” give those you are obliged to trust, every inducement to be ehahaniee and no temptation to play tricks. | When you consider that a good servant eats* more than a bad one,—how much waste is Pen by provisions being dressed in a slovenly and unskilful manner—and how much a good Cock (to whom the conduct of the Kitchen is confided) can save you by careful management—no Housekeeper will hardly deem it an unwise speculation,—it is certainly an ami- able experiment,—to invite the Honesty and Industry of domestics, by setting them an example of Lzberality,— at least, show them, that “ according to ther Pains, will be ther Gains.” But trust not your servants with the secret of their own strength ;—-Importance of any kind, being what human frailty is least able to bear. Avoid all approaches towards Familiarity, which to * To guard against “ da gourmandise” of the second table, “ provide each of your servants with a large pair of spectacles of the highest magnifying power, and never permit them to sit down to any meal without wearing them; they are as necessary, and as useful in a Kitchen as Pots and Kettles: they will make a Lark look as largé as a Fowl, a Goose as big as a Swan, a Leg of Mutton as large as a Hind Quarter of Beef; a twopenny loaf as large as a quartern;” and as Philosophers assure you that Pain even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same of Hunger. Thus, if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food, imagines, by the aid of these glasses, that he has eaten three pounds, his hunger will be as fully satisfied—and the Addition to your Optician’s Account, will soon be overpaid by the Subtraction from your Butcher’s and Baker’s.— Life of Col. Hanger, vol. ii. p, 153. INTRODUCTION. 15 a proverb is accompanied by Contempt, and soon breaks the neck of obedience. Servants are more likely to be praised into good con- duct—than scolded out of bad—always commend them when they do right—to cherish the desire of pleasing in them, you must show them that you are pleased :—by such conduct,—ordinary Servants, will often be converted into Good ones ;—there are few so hardened, as not to feel gratified when they are hich and liberally treated. It is a good Maxim ta select Servants not younger than THIRTY,—before that age, however comfortable you may endeavour to make them, their want of expe- rience, and the Hope of something still better—prevents their being satisfied with their present state.— After, they have had the benefit of experience, if they are tolerably comfortable, they will endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master, for Fear they may change for the worse. Life may indeed he very fairly divided into the sea- sons of Horz and Fear. In Yourn, we hope every thing may be right ;—in AGE, we fear every thing will be wrong. Do not discharge a good servant for a slight offence— *¢ Bear, and forbear, thus preached the stoic sages, And in two words, include the sense of pages.”—Popr, HUMAN NATURE, IS THE SAME IN ALL STATIONS; —if you can convince your Servants, that you have a generous and considerate regard for their Health and Comfort—why should you imagine that they will be insensible to the good they receive. 16 INTRODUCTION. Impose no commands but what are reasonable,—nor reprove but with justice and temper—the best way to -ensure which, is —never to Lecture them, till at-least one day, after they have offended you. If they have ‘any particular hardships to sien in your service,—let them see that you are semanas for the necessity of imposing it. If they are Sick,—remember you are their Patron as well as their Master,—not only remit their labour, but give them all the assistance of Food, and Physic, and every comfort in your power.—Tender assiduity about an Invalid is half a Cure,—it is a balsam to the Mind, which has a most powerful effect on the Body,— sooths the sharpest Pains, and aeenies beyond the richest Cordial. The following estimate of THE EXPENSES OF A FEMALE SERVANT—was sent to us by an experienced Housekeeper— They are often expected to find their own Tea and SucGar,—which with sober servants is the most com- fortable meal they have—and will require £. Ss. es Half a pound of Tea, per month vesecccccccecees Ditto ditto Speer, per week. bdewndtekes 4 pair Of Shoes, PT ANNUM sesroevececccevccvececesseserese O18 O 2 pair of black worsted Stockings svecccscseeccosenessascsersse O 4 O 2 pair of white Cotton Do. Ce evesecceereerccenecsocesen O 3. O O'GOWNS) evcccieaccanded60bu0 vee 60.066 etn enie Saisie blew e cletnia scent, 10 0 6 Aprons—4 check, 2 White csseccseccaccccaverccccsecsseess O10 6 G CApS. omen aso r00e cnieds nsec sans ce cons sma en ees ce umesaadee ial eee A Bonnet, a Shawl or Cloak, Pattens, &c. Ribands, Handker- chiefs, Pins, Needles, Threads, Thimbles, Scissars and other working tools,— Stays, Stay-tape, and Buckram, &c. &c..0.022 2 0 O eR eine INTRODUCTION. 17 Bouidee these, she has to make a shift and buy sal ticoats, pockets, and many other articles. ‘We appeal to the neatest managing und most economical Housewife, to inform us how this can be done—and how much a poor Girl will have remaining to place to her account in the Savinc Banx,—for help in Sickness, —when Out of Place,—and for her support in Old Age.— Here,—is the source,—of the swarms of distressed Females which we daily meet in our streets. Ye, who think that to protect and encourage Virtue,— as the best preventive from Vice,—give your puna servants hberal wages. “Cuariry should begin at HomzE,’—“ Prevention is preferable to Cure,” but I have no objection to see your names ornamenting the Lists of Subscribers to Foundling Hospitals, and Female Penitentiaries* | * Much real reformation might be effected, and most grateful services obtained, if Families which consist wholly of Females, would take servants recommended from the MaGDALEN—PENITENTIARY—or GUARDIAN— who seek to be restored to virtuous society. “ Female servants who pursue an honest course—have to travel in their peculiar orbit, through a more powerfully resisting mediam than perhaps any other class of people in civilized Life,—they should be treated with some- thing like Christian kindness—for want of this—a fault which might at the time have been easily amended—has become the source of interminable sorrow.” “ By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known to the writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been in some situations, would have been literally Outcasts.” A most laudable SociteTy for the ENCOURAGEMENT OF FEMALE SERVANTS, by a gratuituous Registry, and by Rewards, was instituted in 1813, Plans of which may be had gratis at the Society’s House, No. 10, Hation ' Garden. The above, is an extract from the Rev. H. G. WATKINS’S Hints to Heads of Families—a work well deserving their attentive consi- deration, 18 INTRODUCTION. > “To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and pestilential exhalations of the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of the heartiest, the glare of a scorching fire, and the smoke so baneful to the eyes and the complexion, are continual and inevitable dangers ;—and a Cook must live in the midst of them, as a Soldier on the field of battle, surrounded by - bullets, and bombs, and Conereve’s rockets ;—with this only difference, that for the first, every day is a fighting day, that her warfare is almost always without glory, and most praiseworthy achievements pass not only without reward, but frequently without even Thanks;—for the most consummate Cook is, alas! seldom noticed by the master, or heard of by the guests; who, while they are eagerly devouring his Turtle, and drinking his Wine,—care’ very, little who dressed the one, or sent the other.”— A/manach des Gourmands. td This observation applies especially to the Szconp Cook, or first Kitchen Maid, in large families, who have by far the hardest place in the house, ‘and are worse paid, and truly verify the old adage, “‘ the more work, the less wages.” —If there is any thing right, the Coox has the praise—when there is any thing wrong, as surely the Kitchen maid has the blame.—Be «it known, then, to honest Jonn Butt, that this humble domestic, is expected by the Cook to take the entire management of all Roasts and Boils, Fish and Vege- tables —i. e. the principal part of an. Englishman's dinner. The Master, who wishes, to enjoy the rare luxury, INTRODUCTION. 19 of a table regularly well served in the best style, must treat his Cook as his friend,—watch over her Health* with the tenderest care, and especially, be sure, her Taste does not suffer, from her Stomach being deranged by Bilious Attacks. * The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that his Cook’s health be preserved:—one hundredth part of the attention usually bestowed on his dog, or his horse, will suffice to regulate her animal system. ** Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen j—the grand scene of action, the fire-place, should be placed where it may receive plenty of light:—hitherto the contrary has prevailed, and the poor Cook is ° ‘continually basted with her own perspiration.”—A. C. Jui. “ vpiwae Oley as La Cuisiniére Bourgeoisesseces Le Parfait Cuisinier .sccsccoss Le Nouveau Cuisinier .ecesees Le Cours Gastronomique 4... J Manuel des Amphitryons.eses Almanach des Gourmands, &e. 8toms. esvsnereeeeseoeesesas Le Cuisinier Imperial, par A. Viar, homme de bouche wee L’Art du Cuisinier, par Beauvil- Tiers aii qatnip cleis eanliwele swisia's.ale INTRODUCTION. pa f During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress through these books—many of which did not afford the germ of a single idea—I have often wished that the authors of them had been satisfied with giving us the results of their own practice and experience— instead of idly perpetuating the errors, prejudices, and plagiarisms, of their predecessors,—the strange, un- accountable, and uselessly extravagant farragos, and heterogeneous compositions, which fill their pages, are combinations no rational being would ever think of either dressing or eating, and without ascertaining the practicability of preparing the receipts, and their fitness for food when done, they should never have ventured to recommend them to others;—the reader of them will often put the same quere, as Jeremy, in Congreve’s comedy of ‘‘ Love for Love,” when Valentine observes, ‘“‘ There’s a page doubled down in Epictetus, that is a feast for an Emperor.”—Jer. Was Epictetus a real Cook,—or did he only write Receipts ? Half of these books are made up with pages cut out of obsolete works, such as the ‘* Choice Manual of Secrets,” the “* True Gentlewoman’s Delight,” &c. of as much use, in this Age of refinement, as the following ‘curious passage from ‘“‘ The Accomplished Lady’s Rich Closet of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentlewoman’s Delightful Companion,” 12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7, page 42. which I have inserted in a note * to give the reader * A Gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home, must observe to keep her body straight, and lean not by any means with her elbows, nor by ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite; talk not when yon have meat in your mouth; and do not smack like @ Pig, nor venture to eat Spoonmeat so hot that the tears stand in your Eyes, which is as unseemly as the Gentlewoman who pretended to have as little a Stomach as she had a a2 28 INTRODUCTION. a notion of the barbarous manners of the 16th century, with the addition of the Arts of the Confectioner,— the Brewer,——the Baker,—the Distiller,--the Gardner, ——the Clearstarcher,-and the Perfumer,—and how to make Pickles—-Puff-Paste—Butter and Blacking, &c.—together with all my Lady Bountiful’s sovereign remedies for an inward Bruise,——and other ever- failing Nostrums—Dr. Killemquick’s wonder-working Essence, and fallible Elixir which cures all manner of incurable maladies directly minute—Mrs. Notable’s instructions how to make soft Pomatum —that will soon make more hair grow upon thy Head,— “ than Dobbin thy thill horse, hath upon his tail”—and many others equally mvaluable!!!--the proper appellation for which, would be ‘‘a dangerous budget of vulgar errors,” concluding with a bundle of extracts from «the Gardener’s Calendar” and “ the Publican’s Daily Companion.” Thomas Carter, in the preface to his ‘ Czty and Country Cook,” London, 1738, says, ‘‘ What I have published, is almost the only book, one or two excepted, which of late years has come into the world, that has Mouth, and therefore would not swallow her Peas by spoonsful; but took - them one by one, and cut them in two before she would eat them. It is very uncomely to drink so large a draught, that your Breath is almost gone—and are forced\to blow strongly to recover yourself—throwing down your liquor as into a Funnel is an action fitter for a Juggler than a Gentlewoman: thus much for your Observations in general, if I am defective as to particulars, your own prudence, discretion, and curious observations will supply. ‘In CARVING at your own Table, distribute the best pieces first, and it will appear very comely and decent to use a Fork ; so touch no piece of Meat without it.” ““ Mem. The English are indebted to Tom CoryaT for introducing THE Forx, for which they called him Fwrcifer.”—See his Crudities, vol. i. p- 106—Edit. 1776, 8vo. INTRODUCTION, é 29 been the result of the author's own practice and expe- . miénce: for though very few eminent practical Cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew of the art, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small premum from a Bookseller, to lend their names, to performances in this art, unworthy their owning.” Robert May, in the introduction to his “* Accomplished Cook,” 1665, says, “ To all honest and well-intending persons of my profession, and others, this book cannot but be acceptable, as wt plainly and profitably discovers the mystery of the whole art ; for which, though I may be envied by some, that only value their private interests above posterity. and the public good; yet, (he adds,) God and my own conscience would not permit me to bury these, my experiences, with my silver hairs in the grave.” Those high and mighty Masters and Mistresses of the Alimentary Art, who are commonly called “ Pro- fess” Cooks—are said to be very jealous and myste- rious beings :—and that if in a long life of laborious Stove work, they have found out a few useful secrets— they seldom impart to the public the fruits of their experience, but sooner than divulge their discoveries for the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures—often run the risk of a reprimand from their employers,— and will sooner spoil a good Dinner,—than suffer their fellow-servants to see how they dress it!!! The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never more extremely absurd—than in their unprofitable parsimony,—of what is of no use to them,——-but would be of actual value to others,——-who in return would yoriet 1 INTRODUCTION. willingly repay them tenfold :—however, I hope-I may be permitted to quote in defence of these culinary Professors—a couple of lines of a favourite old song: “Tf you search the world round, each profession yow’ll find, Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery* they call.” My Recerpts are the results of experiments carefully made, and accurately and circumstantially related ; The Time requisite for dressing being stated. The Quantities of the various articles contained in each composition being carefully set down in NumsBer, WeieutT, and MrasuReE. The Weieuts are Avoirdupois; the Mrasurz, Lyne’s graduated Glass, i. e. a Wine pint divided into sixteen ounces, and the Ounce into eight Drachms :— by a Wine-glass, is to be understood two ounces liquid measure ;—by a large or table Spoonful, half an ounce? * Almost all Arts and Sciences are more or less encumbered with vulgar errors and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance haye unfortunately sufficient influence to preserve, by help (or hinderance) of mystérious, unde- finable, and not seldom unintelligible, technical terms—Anglice, nicknames —which, instead of enlightening the subject it is professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate, serve but to shroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity ; and, in general, so extravagantly fond are the professors of an art of keeping up all the pomp, circumstance, and mystery ofit,and of preserving the accumulated prejudices of ages past undiminished, that one might fairly suppose those who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome these obstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were delighted with placing difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, on purpose to deter them from the pursuit, and that they cannot bear others should climb the hill of knowledge by a readier road than they themselves did: and such is esprit du corps, that as their predecessors supported themselves by serving it out gradatim et stillatim, and retailing with a sparing hand the information they so hardly obtained, they find it convenient to follow their example; and, willing to do as they have been done by, leave and bequeath the inheritance undiminished to those who may succeed them.”—See page 7 of Dr. KITCHINER’s Observations on Telescopes, 3d Edit. a INTRODUCTION. —by a small or Tea Spoonful, a drachm, or half a quarter of an ounce, i. e. nearly equal to two drachms avoirdupois. At Price's glass warehouse, near Exeter Change, in the Strand, you may get measures divided into Tea and Table Spoons._-No Cook should be without one, who wishes to be regular in her business. This precision has never before been attempted in Cookery books, but I found indispensable, from the impossibility of guessing the quantities intended by such obscure expressions as have been usually employed for this purpose in former works. For instance: a little bit of this—a handful of that— a nip or pinch of t’other,—do ’em over with an Egg— and a sprinkling of salt,—a dust of flour —ashake of pepper,—a squeeze of lemon,—or a dash of vinegar, &c. are the constant phrases ; season it to your Palate, (meaning the Cook’s,) is another form of speech: now, if she has any,—it is very unlikely that it is in unison with that of her employers,—by continually sipping piquante relishes, it becomes blunted and insensible, and soon loses the faculty of appreciating delicate flavours,—so that every thing is done at random. These Culinary technicals* are so very differently * Inthe present language of Cookery, there has been a woeful departure from the simplicity of our Ancestors, such a farrago of unappropriate and unmean- ing terms, many corrupted from the French, others disguised from the Italian, some misapplied from the German, while many are a disgrace to the English. What can any person suppose to be the meaning of a Shoulder of Lamb in epigram, unless it were a poor dish, for a Pennyless Poet? Aspect of fish, would appear calculated for an Astrologer; and shoulder of mutton surprised, designed for a Sheep-stealer.”—A. C. Jun. wy INTRODUCTION. understood by the learned who write them,—and the unlearned who read them,—and their “rule of Thumb” is so extremely indefinite,—that if the same dish be dressed by different persons, it will generally be so different, that nobody would imagine they had worked from the same directions, which will assist a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the Kitchen; no more than reading “ Robinson Crusoe,” would enable a Sailor to steer safely from England to India. ‘It is astonishing how cheap Cookery Books are held by practical Cooks: when I applied to an experienced artist to recommend me some books that would give me a notion of the first principles and rudiments of Cookery, he replied with a smile—“< You may read Don Quixote, or Peregrine Pickle, they are both very good books.” Careless expressions in Cookery are the more sur- prising, as the Confectioner is regularly attentive, in the description of his preparations, to give the exact quantities, though his business, compared to Cookery, is aS unimportant, as the Ornamental is inferior to the Useful. The maker of Blanchmange, Custards, &c., and the endless and useless collection of pretty playthings for the Palate, (of first and second childhood, for the vigour of manhood seeketh not to be sucking Sugar- candy, or sipping Turtle,) is scrupulously exact, even to a grain, in his ingredients; whilst Cooks are unin- telligibly indefinite, although they are intrusted with the administration of our FooD, upon the proper quality and preparation of which, all our pawers of Body and- a Re INTRODUCTION. 33 Mind depend ; — their Energy, being invariably, in the ratio, of the performance of the restorative process, 1. €. the quantity, quality, and perfect digestion of what we eat and drink; and a sufficient portion of sound Sleep, “ the balm of hurt minds, chief nourisher in life’s feast, great Nature’s second course.” ~ Unless the Stomach be in good humour, every part of the machinery of life must vibrate with languor ;— can we then be too attentive to its adjustment!!! CULINARY CURIOSITIES. The following specimen of the unaccountably whimsical Harlequinade of Foreign Kitchens is from ‘* La Chapelle” Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, 1748. ** A Turkey,” in the shape of “ a Football,” or ‘ a Hedge-Hog.”—‘ A Shoulder of Mutton,” in the shape of a“ Bee-Hive.”—** Entrée of Pigeons,” “ in the form of a Spider,’ or Sun-Fashion, or “‘ in the form of a Frog,” or, in “ the form of the Jfoon.”—Or, “ to make a Pig taste like a Wild Boar :” Take @ living Pig, and let him swallow the following drink, viz. boil together in vinegar and water, some rosemary, thyme, sweet basil, bayleaves, and sage 3; when you have det him swallow this, immediately whip him to Death, and roast him forthwith. How “ to still a Cocke for a weake bodie that is consumed,” ‘“ take a red Cocke that is not too olde, and beate him to death.”— See rHE BooKE oF CoOOKRYE, very necessary for all such as delight therein.—Gathered by A, W. 1591, 12mo. p. 12. How to Roast a@ pound of BUTTER, curiously and well; and to farce (the culinary technical for to stuff) a boiled leg of Lamb with Red Herrings and Garlick ; with many other receipts of as high arelish, and of as easy digestion as the Devil’s Venison, i. e. a roasted Tiger stuffed with tenpenny Nails, or the “ Bonne Bouche,” the Rareskin Rowskimowmowsky, offered to Baron Munchausen “a fricassee of Pistols, with Gunpowder and Alcohol sauce,”’—see the Adventures of Baron Munchausen, 12mo.1792, p. 200:—and the horrible but authentic account of ARDESOIF in MousrRay’s Treatise on Poultry, 8vo. 1816, p. 18. But the most extraordinary of all the Culinary Receipts that havé been under my eye, is the following diabolically cruel directions of Mizald’s. “ How to roast and eat a Goose alive.”’—Take a GOOSE, or a DUCK, or some such dively creature, (but a Goose is best of all for this purpose,) pull off all her feathers, only the head and neck must be spared: then make a fire c 34 INTRODUCTION. round about her, not too close to her, that the smoke do not choke her, that the fire may not burn her too soon; nor too far off, that she may nog escape free: within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots full of water, wherein salt and honey are mingled; and let there be set also. chargers full of sodden Apples, cut into small pieces in the dish. The Goose must be all larded, and basted over with butter, to make her the more fit to be’ eaten, and may roast the better: put then fire about her, but do not make too much haste, when as you see her begin to roast; for by walking about, and flying here and there, being cooped in by the fire that stops her way out, the: unwearied Goose is kept in; she will fall to drink the water to quench her thirst, and cool her heart, and all her body, and the Apple Sauce will make her dung, and cleanse and empty her. And when she roasteth, and consumes’ inwardly, always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge; and when you. gee her giddy with running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moisture, and she is roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your guests, and she will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten up before she be dead: it is mighty pleasant to behold! !!’—See WEcKER’s Secrets of Nature, in folio, London, 1660, pp. 148, 309*. We suppose Mr. Mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his Infernal Majesty; probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil eer? when he invited Nero and Caligula to a feast.—A. C. Jun. This-is also related in Baprista Porta’s Natural Magicke, fol. 1658, p. 321. This very curious (but not scarce) Book contains among other strange tricks and fancies of “ the Olden Time,” directions, how to Roast and, Bor. @ fowl, at the same time, so that one-half shall be RoastED—and the other Bo1LeD;’—and ‘if you have a lacke of Cooks—How to per- suade a Goose—to roast himseife!!!” Many articies were in vogue in the 14th Century which are now obsolete— we add the following Specimens of THE CULINARY AFFAIRS OF Days OF YORE. Sauce for a Goose, A.D. 1381. ** Take a faire panne, and set hit under the Goose whill she rostes ;—and kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof, and put therto a godele (good deal) of Wyn, and a litel vynegur, and verjus, and onyons mynced, or garlek; then take the goties (gut) of the Goose and slitte hom, and scrape hom clene in watur and salt, and so wash kom, and hack hom small, then do all this togedur in a piffenent (pipkin) and do thereto raisinges of corance, and pouder of pepur and of ginger and of canell, and hole clowes and maces, and let hit boyle and serve hit forthe.” “That unweildy marine animal the PoRPUs was dressed in a variety of modes, salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular in their partiality to it; I find, from an ingenious friend of mine, that it is even now, A.1). 1790, sold in the markets of most towns in Portugal—the flesh of it is intolerably hard and rancid.”—WaRNER’s Antig. Cul. 4to. p, 15. * See Note to (No. 59,) how to plump the liver of a Goose. INTRODUCTION. 35 The Swan* was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when the elegance of the Feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which it was composed, the number consumed at Earl of Northumberland’s table, A. D. 1512, amounted to twenty.”—N ORTHUMBERLAND Household Book, p. 108. The CRANE, was a darling dainty in William the Conqueror’s time, and 80 partial was that monarch to it, that when his prime favourite William Fitz Osborne, the steward of the household, served him with a.Crane scarcely half roasted, the King was so highly exasperated, that he lifted up his fist, and would have. strucken him, had not Euwds (appointed Dapifer immediately after) warded off the blow.”—WARNER’s Antig. Cul. p. 12. SEALs, CURLEWS, HERONS, BITTERNS, and the PEacocK—that noble bird “ the food of Lovers and the meat of Lords—was also at this time in high fashion—when the Baronial Entertainments were characterized by a grandeur and pompous ceremonial, approaching nearly to the magnificence of Royalty : there was scarcely any Royal or Noble feast without PECcOKKEs, which were stuffed with Spices and Sweetherbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered after dressing with the skin and feathers—the beak and comb yilt and the tail spread—and some instead of the feathers, covered it with leaf-gold :—it was a common dish on grand occasions—and continued to adorn the English table till the beginning of the 17th Century. In Massinger’s Play of “ the City Madam,” Holdfast exclaiming against city luxury says, “three fat wethers bruised, to make sauce for a single Peacock.” This Bird-is one of those luxuries which were often sought, because they were seldom found: its scarcity and external appearance is its only recom - mendation—the meat of it is tough and tasteless. Another favourite Dish at the tables of our Forefathers was a PYEr of stupendous magnitude, out of which, on its being opened, a flock of living birds flew forth, to the no small surprise and amusement of the guests. * Four-and-twenty Blackbirds bak’d in a Pye; “¢ When the Pye was open’d the birds began to sing— ** Oh! what a dainty dish—tis fit for any King.” This was acommon Joke at an old English Feast. These animated Pies were often introduced ‘“ to set on,’ as Hamlet says, ‘‘ a quantity of barren spectators to laugh,’’—there is an instance of a Dwarf undergoing such an incrustation.—About the year 1630, King Charles and his Queen were entertained by the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion JEFFERY HUDSON, the Dwarf, was served upina cold Pye.-~See WaLPourn’s Anecdotes of Painting, vol.ii. p. 14. * It is a curious illustration of the de gustibus non est disputandum, that the ancients considered the Swan as a high delicacy, and abstained from the flesh of the Goose as impure and indigestible.” —MouBray on Poultry, p. 36. / 36 INTRODUCTION. The BARON OF BEEF was another favorite and substantial support of ani English Hospitality. Among the most polished nations of the 15th and ean Centuries the powdered (salted) Horse seems to have been a dish in some esteem: “Grimatkin herself could not escape the undistinguishing fury of the Cook. Don Anthony of Guevera, the Chronicler to Charles V., gives the following account of a Feast at which he was present. ‘* I will tell you no lye,I sawe such kindes of meates eaten, as are wont to be sene, but not eaten—as a Horse roasted—a Car in gely—Lyzarvs in hot brothe, FROGGES fried, &c. While we are thus considering the curious dishes of olden times, we will cursorily mention the singular diet of two or three nations of. antiquity noted by Herodotus, L. 4. The Androphagi (the cannibals of the ancient world) greedily devoured the carcases of their fellow creatures ; while the inoffensive Cabri (a Scythian tribe) found both food and drink in the agreeable nut of the Pontic Tree. The Lotophagi lived entirely on the fruit of the Lotus Tree. ‘The savage Troglodyte esteemed a living serpent the miost delicate ofall morsels; while the capricious palate of the Zyguntinié preferred the Ape to every thing.”—Vide WARNER’s Antig. Cul. p. 135. The Romans in the laxurious period of their empire, tool five meals a day; a Breakfast (jentaculum) ; a Dinner, which was a light meal without any formal preparation (prandium); a kind of Tea, as we could call it, between dinner and supper (merenda); a Supper, (cena), which was their great meal, and commonly consisted of two courses; the first of meats—the second, what we call a Dessert ;—and a Posset, or something delicious after supper, (comissatio).—AvDaAm’s Rom. Antiq. p. 434 and 447. ‘The Romans usually began their entertainments with egys, and ended with fruits; hence AB OVO USQUE AD MALA, from the begihning to the end of supper, Horat. Sat. i. 3. 6.; Cic. Fam, ix. 20. The dishes (edxéia) held in the highest estimation by the Romans are enumerated, Geld. vii. 16. Macrob. Sat. ii. 9. Martial. v. 79. ix. 48. xi. 53. &c. a Peacock, (pavo, v. us) Horat. Sat. ii. 2. 23. Juvenal.i. 143. first used by Hortensius, the orator, at a supper, which he gave when admitted into the college of priests, (aditiali cand sacerdotii), Plin. x. 20. 8s. 23.a pheasant, (PHASIANA, ex Phasi Colchidis fluvio), Martial. iii. 58. xiii. 72. Senec. ad Helv. 9. Petron. 79. Manil. v. 372. a bird called Attagen vel -ina, from Ienia or Phrygia, Horat. Eopd. ii. 54. Martial. xiii. 61.a guinea hen, (avis Afra, Horat. ibid. Gallina Numidica vel Africana, Juvenal, xi, 142. Martial. xiii. 73.) a Melian crane; an Ambracian kid; nightingales, luscinie ; thrushes furdi; ducks, geese, &c. TOMACULUM, (@ TEMYW), vel IsSICIUM, (ab inseco), sausages or puddings, Juvenal. x. 355. Martial. i. 42. 9. Petron. 31.—See Apam’s Roman Antiquities, 2d Edition, 8vo. 1792, p. 447. That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the heterogeneous messes with which the Roman Palate was delighted, I introduce the following Receipt from Apicius. ‘© THICK SAUCE FOR A BOILED CHICK EN.”—Put the following ingredienta INTRODUCTION. oF into a Mortar ;—Aniseed, dried Mint, and Lazer Root, (similar to Assa- fetida,) cover them with vinegar.—Add dates; pour in Liquamen, Oil, and asmall quantity of Mustard Seeds—reduce all to a proper thickness with Port Wine warmed; and then pour this same over your Chicken, which should previously be boiled in Anise-seed water. The Liguamen and Garwm were synonimous terms for the same thing; the former adopted in the room of the latter—about the age of Aurelian. It was a Liquid, and thus prepared:—The Guts of large Fish and a variety of small Fish, were put into a vessel and well salted, and then exposed to the Sun till they became putrid. A liquor was produced in a short time, which being strained off, was the Liguamen.—Vide LisTER in Apicium, p. 16, notes. Essence of Anchovy, as it is usually made for sale, when it has been opened about 10 days, is not much unlike the Roman Liqguamen. See No. 433.—Some suppose it was the same thing as the Russian Caviar, which is prepared from the Roe of the Sturgeon. The Brack Broru of Lacedemon will long continue to excite the wonder of the Philosopher, and the disgust of the Epicure. What the ingredients of this sable composition were, we cannot exactly ascertain. Jul. Pollux says, the Lacedemonian Black Broth was blood, thickened in a certain way: Dr. LisTEeR (in Apicium) supposes it to have been hog’s blood ; if so, this celebrated Spartan dish bore no very distant resemblance to the black-puddings of our days. It could not be a very aliuring mess, since a citizen of Sybarisehaving tasted it, declared, it was no longer a matter of astonishment with him, why the Spartans were so fearless of death, since any one in his senses would much rather die, than exist on such execrable food. Vide Atheneum, L. iv.c. 3. When Dionysius the Tyrant had tasted the Black Broth, he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff; the Cook replied,—“ it was no wonder, for the sauce was wanting.” “What sauce ?” says Dionysius. The answer was,— labour and exercise, hunger and thirst, these are the sauces we Lacedemonians use,’ and they make the coarsest fare agreeable.”—CICERO, 3 Tuscul. INVITATIONS TO DINNER. In “ the Affairs of the Mouth” the strictest punctuality is indispensable ;— the GasTRONOMER ought to be as accurate an observer of Time, as the ASTRONOMER. The: least Delay produces fatal and irreparable Mis- Jortunes. | Almost all other Ceremonies and Civil Duties may. be put off for several hours without much incon- venience, and all, may be postponed without absolute Danger.—A little Delay, may try the patience of those who are in waiting; but the act itself will be equally. perfect and equally valid.—Procrastination sometimes is rather advantageous than prejudicial. It gives time for Reflection — and may prevent our taking a step which would have made us miserable for Life; the delay of a Courier has prevented the conclusion of a Convention, the signing of which might have occasioned the ruin of a Nation. If from Affairs the most important, we descend to our Pleasures and Amusements, we shali find new arguments in support of our assertions. The putting off of a Rendezvous, or a Ball, &c. will make them the more delightful. To hope, is to enjoy. “« Man never is, but always to be blest.” The anticipation of Pleasure warms our imagination, INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 39 and keeps those feelings alive, which Possession too often extinguishes, ‘Tis Expectation only makes us blest; «© Enjoyment disappoints us at the: best.” Dr. Johnson. has most sagaciously said: ‘ Such is the state of Life, that none are Happy, but by the antici- pation of Change: the Change itself is nothing; when we have made it, the next Wish, is immediately to change again.” However singular our assertions may have at first appeared to those who have not considered the subject, we hope by this time we have made converts of our readers, and convinced the ‘‘ Amateurs de Bonne Chére” of the truth and importance of our remarks; and that they will remember, that Dinner is the only act of the day which cannot be put off with Impunity, for even FIVE MINUTES. Ina well regulated family, all the Clocks and Watches should agree; on this depends the fate of the Dinner ; what would be agreeable to the Stomach, and restorative to the System, if served at ¥1VE o'clock, —vwill be uneatable and indigestible at A QUARTER PAST. The Dining room should be furnished with a good going Clock ;—— the space over the Kitchen fire-place with another, vibrating in unison with the former, so placed, that the Cook may keep one [ye on the Clock, and the other on the Spit, &c. She will calculate to a minute the time required to roast a large Capon or a little Lark,—and is equally attentive to the degree of heat of her Stove, and the time her Sauce remains on 40 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. it — when to withdraw the Bakings from the oven, the Roast from the spit, and the Stew from the pan. > With all our Love of punctuality, the first considera- tion must still be, that the Dinner ‘ be well done, when tis done.” / ~ It is a common fault with Cooks who are over-anzious about Time—to overdress every thing—the Guests had better wait than the Dinner—a little delay will improve their Appetite*;—but if the Dinner waits for the Guests, it will be deteriorated every minute :—there- fore the Host who wishes to entertain his friends with food perfectly well dressed, must, while he ‘most earnestly endeavours to impress on their minds the importance of being punctual to the appointed hour,— will still allow his Cook—her quarter of an hour's grace. The old Adage that “ the Eye is oftener bigger than the Belly,” is often verified by the ridiculous vanity of _ those, who wish to make an appearance above their fortune—nothing can be more ruinous of real comfort «Tl y a trois sortes d’appétits; celui que l’on éprouve a jetin; sensation impérieuse qui ne chicane point sur le mets, et qui vous fait venir l’eau a la bouche & l’aspect d’un bon ragofit. Je le compare au désir impétueux d’un jeune homme qui voit sourire la beauté qu’il aime.—Le second appétit est celui que l’on ressent lorsque, s’étant mis a table sans faim, on a déja gotté d’un plat succulent, et quia consacré le proverbe, Vappétit vient en mangeant. Je Vassimile a état d’un mari dont le cceur tiede s’*échauffe aux premidres caresses de sa femme.—Le troisitme appétit est celui qu’excite un mets aélicieux qui parait ala fin d’un repas, lorsque, l’estomac satisfait, ?homme sobre allait quitter la table sans regret. Celui-la trouve son embléme dans les feux du libertinage, qui quoique illusoires, font naitre cependant quelques plaisirs réels. La connoissance de cette métaphysique de Vappétit doit guider le Cuisinier habile dans la composition du premier, du second, et du troisiéme service.”—Cours Gastronomique, p. 64. INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 41 than the too common custom of setting out a table, with a parade and a profusion, unsuited not only to the circumstances of the Host, but to the number of the Guests :—or more fatal to true Hospitality, than the multiplicity of dishes which luxury has made fashion- -able at .the tables of the Great, the Wealthy—and the Ostentatious,—who are often, neither great nor wealthy. Such excessive preparation, instead of being a com- pliment to our Guests, is nothing better than an indirect offence; it is a tacit insinuation, that it is” absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies—to bribe the depravity of their palates, when we desire the pleasure of their company—and that Society in Eng- land, now, must be purchased, at the same price Swirr told Pops, he was obliged to pay for it in Ireland—*“ I should hardly prevail to find one Visitor, “if I were not able to hire him with a bottle of Wine.”— Vide Swirt’s Letters to Pore, July 10th, 1732. When twice as much cooking is undertaken as there are Servants, or conveniences in the Kitchen to do it properly—dishes must be dressed long before the © dinner hour, and stand by spoiling—the poor Cook loses her credit, and the poor guests get Indigestions— Why prepare for eight or ten Friends, more than sufficient for twenty or thirty Visitors? “‘ Envugh is as good as a Feast,” and a prudent provider, who takes measure of the Appetites, instead of the Eyes of his Guests, may entertain his Friends,—three times as often, and ten times as well. It is your sEconD courses—ridiculous variety of 42 INVITATIONS TO DINNER: Wines, Liqueurs, Iczs*, Desserts, &c.—which are served up to feed the Eye—that overcome the Stomach, and paralyze Digestion, and seduce “ children, of a larger Growth’ to sacrifice the health and comfort of several days,—for the Baby-pleasure of tickling their tongue for afew minutes, with Trifles and Custards!!! &c. &e. ‘“‘InpicEstTion will sometimes overtake the most experienced. Epicure ;—when the gustatory nerves are in good humour, Hunger and Savoury Viands will sometimes seduce the Tongue of a ‘‘ Grand Gourmand” to betray the interests of his Stomach, in spite of his Brains. On such an unfortunate occasion, when the Séoussitls sends forth eructant signals of distress, for help, the Pervstaltic Persuaders are as agreeable and. effectual assistance as can be offered; and for: delicate Consti- tutions, and those that are impaired: by Age or-Intem- perance, are a valuable Panacea. They derive, and deserve this name, from the peculiar mildness of their operation. One or two very gently increase the action of the principal viscera, help them to do their work a little faster, and enable the — Stomach to serve with an ejectment whatever offends it, and move it into the Bowels. Thus Indigestion is easily and speedily removed,— Appetite restored,—(the mouths of the absorbing vessels being, cleansed) Nutrition is facilitated,—and Strength * Swilling cold Soda Water immediately after eating a hearty dinner, is another very unwholesome custom. INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 43 of Body, and Energy of Mind, are the happy results.”— See ‘* Peptic Precepts,” from which we extract the following prescription— : To make Forty PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS. Take— Turkey Rhubarb, finely pulverized,—two drachms. Syrup, (by weight) one drachm. Oil of Carraway, ten drops (minims.) Made into Pills, each of which will contain Three Grains of Rhubarb. * The Dosr or THE PERSUADERS must be adapted to the constitutional peculiarity of the Patient—when you wish to accelerate or augment the Alvine Exonera- tion—take two— three—or more, according to the effect you desire to produce—Two Pills will do as much for one person, as five or six will for another; they will generally very regularly perform what you wish to-day,—without interfering with what you hope will happen to-morrow;—and are therefore as con- venient an argument against Constipation as any we are acquainted with. The most convenient opportunity to introduce them to the Stomach,—is early in the morning, when it is unoc- cupied, and has no particular business of Digestion, &c. to attend to—i. e. at least half an hour before breakfast. Physic must never interrupt the Stomach, when it is engaged in digesting Food. From two to four Persuaders, will generally produce one additional motion, within twelve hours. They may be taken at any time by the most. delicate Females, whose constitutions are so often distressed by constipation—and destroyed by the drastic purga- tives they take to relieve it ” 44 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. The Cloth * should be laid in theParlour, and all the paraphernalia of the dinner table completely arranged at least an hour before dinner time. — | The Cook’s labour will be lost, if the Parlour table be not ready for action,—and the Eaters ready for the Eatables—which the least delay will irreparably injure :—therefore, the Gourmanp will be punctual for the sake of gratifying his ruling passion ;—the InvaLip, to avoid the danger of encountering an Indigestion from eating ill-dressed food; and the Rationat Epicure, who happily attends the Banquet with ‘‘ mens sana in corpore sano,” will keep the time not only for these strong reasons, but that he may not lose the advantage of being introduced to the other Guests. He considers not only what is on the Table,—but Who are around it;—his principal inducement to leave his own Fire-side, is the charm of agreeable and instructive Society, and the opportunity of making connexions, which may augment the interest and enjoy- ment of existence. “It is the most pleasing part of the Duty of the Master of the Feast, (especially when the Guests are not very numerous,t}) to take advantage of these moments to * Le Grand Sommcelier, or CHIEF BUTLER, in former times was expected to be especially accomplished in the Art of folding Table Linen—so as to lay his napkins in different forms every day—these transformations are particularly described in Rosx’s Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth, 1682, p. 111, &c. “* To pleat a napkin in the form of a Cockle-Sheil Double.” —‘‘ Inthe form of—Hen and Chickens”—*“ shape of two capons in a Pye”’— or *‘ like a Dog with a Collar about his Neck”—and many others equally whimsical. t “ Depuis long-temps le nombre des Graces ou celui des Muses a réglé les diners aimables; passé ce dernier nombre il n’y a plus ni intimité, ni conver. sation générale.”—Cours Gastronomique, p. 311. INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 45 introduce them to one another,—naming them indivi- dually in an audible voice,—and adroitly laying hold of those ties of acquaintanceship or profession which may exist between them. This will much augment the pleasures of the Festive Board,—to which it is indeed as indispensable a Prelude, as an Overture to an Opera: and the Host will thus acquire an additional claim to the gratitude of his Guests.—We urge this point more strongly, because, from want of attention to it,—we have seen more than once,—persons whom many kindred ties would have drawn closely together, pass an entire day without opening their lips to each other, because they were mutually ignorant of each other’s names, profes- sions, and pursuits. To put an end at once to all Ceremony as to the order in which the Guests are to sit, it will save much time and trouble if the Master of the House adopts the simple and elegant method of placing the name of each Guest in the plate which is intended for him.—This proceeding, will be of course the result of consideration, and the Host will place those together who he thinks will harmonize best. Le Journal des Dames informs us, that in several fashionable houses in Paris, a new arrangement has been introduced in placing the company at a Dinner table. 1 «< The Ladies first take their places, leaving intervals for the Gentlemen; after being seated, each is desired to call on a gentleman to sit beside her; and thus the Lady of the House is relieved from all embarrassment of étiquetie, as to rank and pretensions, &c. a] 46 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. ‘But without doubt, says the Journalist, this method has its inconveniences. “Tt may happen that a bashful Beauty dare not name the object of her secret wishes, and an acute observer may determine, from a single glance,—that the elected, is not always the chosen.” : If the Party is large the Founders of the Feast should sit in the middle of the Table, instead of at each end,—thus they will enjoy the pleasure of attending equally to all their Friends—and being in some degree relieved from the occupation of Carving— will have an opportunity of administering all those little attentions which contribute so much to the comfort of their Guests. If the Guzsts have any respect for their Host,—or prefer a well-dressed dinner to one that is spoiled,— instead of coming half an hour after, they will take care to make their appearance a quarter of an hour before the time appointed. ; The operations of the Cook are governed by the Clock,— the moment the Roasts, &c. are ready, they must go to table, if they are to be eaten in perfection. An invitation to come at Five o'clock, seems to be generally understood to mean Sir; FIVE PRECISELY, half past Five; and Norv LATER THAN Five, (so that Dinner may be on the table within ten minutes after, allowing this for the variation of watches,) Five O'CLOCK EXACTLY. | Be it known to all Loyal Subjects of the Empire of Goodliomg, that the CommirrzrE or TasTE have unanimously resolved, “ an Invitation to ETA. BETA. PI. must be in Writing, and sent at least ten days before INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 47 the Banquet—and must be answered in Writing, (as soon as possible after tt is recevved.) —within Twenty-four hours at latest”—especially if it be not accepted—then, in addition to the usual complimentary expressions of thanks, &c. the best possible reasons must be assigned for the non-acceptance, as a particular pre-engagement, or severe indisposition, &c. Nothing can be more disobliging than a refusal which is not grounded on some very strong and unavoidable cause, except not coming at the appointed hour; ‘‘ according to the Laws of Conviviality, a cer- ‘* tificate from a Sheriff’s Officer, a Doctor, or an ‘“¢ Undertaker, are the only Pleas which are admissible. The duties which Invitation imposes, do not fall only “© on the Persons invited, but like all other Social *« duties, are reciprocal. ‘As he who has accepted an Invitation cannot “ disengage himself from it; the Master of the Feast ‘cannot put off the entertainment on any pretence ‘¢ whatever.— Urgent Business, — Sickness,—not even *« Death itself can dispense with the obligation which he ‘¢ is under of giving the Entertainment for which he has ‘* sent out invitations, which have been accepted ;—for “in the extreme cases of compulsory Absence, or “‘ Death, his place may be filled by his Friend or ‘¢ Executor.”— Vide Le Manuel des Amphatryons, 8vo. Paris, 1808, et Cours Gustronomique, 1809;—to which the reader is referred for further Instructions. It is the least Punishment that a blundering Ill-Bred Booby can recevve, who comes half an hour after the time he was bidden, to find the Soup removed, and the Fish cold : moreover, for such an Offence, let him also be mulcted Be 48 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. in a pecuniary Penalty, to be applied to the FuND FoR THE BENEFIT OF DECAYED cooks. This is the least punishment that can be inflicted on one whose silence, or violation of an engagement, tends to paralyze an entertainment, and to draw his friend into useless expense. BorLeav, the French satirist, has a shrewd obser- vation on this subject. ‘* I have always been punctual ‘¢ at the hour of Dinner,” says the Bard, “‘ for I knew, | ‘ that all those whom I kept waiting at that provoking ‘‘ interval, would employ those unpleasant moments, ‘to sum up all my faults.—Borizav is indeed a man “‘ of Genius—a very honest man;—but that dilatory «‘ and procrastinating way he has got into, would mar “ the virtues of an Angel.” | There are some, who seldom keep an appointment; —we can assure them they as seldom “ ’scape without whipping’”—and exciting those murmurs which ineyvit- ably proceed from the best regulated Stomachs,—when they are empty and impatient to be filled. The most amiable Animals, when hungry, become Ill-tempered,—the best Friends will employ the time they are kept waiting, in recollecting and repeating’ any real faults we have,—and attributing to us 4 thousand imaginary ones. iu-Bred Beings, who indulge their own dante regardless how they wound the feelings of others, if they possess brilliant and useful talents, — may occasionally be endured as convenient Tools; — but deceive themselves sadly, if they possess all the Wisdom, and all the Wit in the World,—they fancy they can ever be esteemed as Friends. INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 49 MANNERS MAKE THE Man. Good Manners have often made the Fortune of many, who have had nothing else to recommend them: —Ili Manners, have as often marred the hopes, of those who have had every thing else to advance them. These regulations may appear a little rigorous to those phlegmatic philosophers, “« Who, past all pleasures, damn the joys of sense, “* With rev’rend dulness, and grave impotence ;” and are incapable of comprehending the Importance (especially when many are invited) of a truly hospitable Entertainment : but Genuine Connoisseurs in the Science of Good Cheer, will vote us Thanks for our endeavours to initiate well-disposed Amateurs. CARVING. Ceremony, does not in any thing, more commonly, and completely triumph over Comfort, than in the administration of ‘‘ the Honours of the Table.” Those who serve out the Loaves and Fishes, seldom seem to understand, that he fills that situation best,— who fills the plates of the greatest number of Guests, in the least portion of time. To effeet this, jill the Plates and send them round— instead of asking each Individual if they choose Soup —Fish, &c. or what particular part they prefer—for as they cannot all be Choosers—you will thus escape making any invidious distinctions. A dexterous Carver*, (especially if he be possessed *In Days of Yore ‘* Le Grand Ecuyer Tranchant,” or the Masrian D 50 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. with that determined enemy to Ceremony and Sauce, a keen appetite,) will help half a dozen people in half the time, one of your would-be-thought polite folks wastes in making civil faces, &c. toa single Guest. It would save a great deal of Time, &c. if PouLtRy, especially large Turkeys and Geese—were sent to table ready cut up. (No. 5307.) Fisu that is fried, should be previously divided into such portions as are fit to help at table—see (No. 145.) A prudent Carver will cut fair*; and observe an equitable distribution of the Dainties he is serving out —and regulate his helps, by the proportion which his dish bears to the number he has to divide it amongst, +taking into this reckoning, the quantum of Appetite— the several guests are presumed to possess. “ Study their Genius, caprices, Gotit— ** They, in return, may haply study you: “* Some wish a Pinion, some prefer a Leg, ** Some for a Merry-thought, or Sidesbone beg :— ** The wings of Fowls, then slices of the round,— ** The trail of Woodcock, of Codfish the sound. * Let strict impartiality preside— ** Nor freak, nor favour, nor affection gitiel From the Bawacer! CARVER, was the next Officer of the Mouth in rank to the “ Mattre @ Hétel,” and the technical terms of his Art, were as singular as any of those which ornament ‘‘ Grose’s Classical Slang Dictionary,” or ** the Gipsies Gibberish ;”’ the only one of these old phrases now in common use is, ‘* cut up the TURKEY,”—we are no longer desired to “disfigure a PEAcCOcK”—* unbrace a Duck”— unlace a Conry”—* tame a CRaB’—* tire an Ece”—and ‘¢ spoil the HEN,” &c.—See Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth, by Rose, 1682. * Those in the Parlour, should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table.—If they ent Bread,—Meat— Cheese—&c. FAIRLY—it will go twice as far as if they hack and mangle it—as if they had not half so much consideration for those in the Kitchen, as a good Sportsman has for his Dogs. 4 BY ae INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 51 -“ The Guest who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitation to the board of hospitality, instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair Hostess that the prime. “‘ t2¢ b:¢” of every dish be put on his plate—must receive, (if not with pleasure—or even content) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness whatever is presented to him,—and let him not forget to praise the Cook, and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as the praise of the Mistress. ‘The’ Invalid: or the Epicure, when he dines out, to save trouble to his friends, may carry with hima port- able Macazine or Taste, (See No. 463.) ‘¢ If he: does not lke his fare, he may console himself with the. reflexion, that he need not expose his Mouth to the like mortification again; — Mercy to the feelings of:the Mistress of the Mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, —notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy.” «If he likes it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from. his making a moderate dinner, —and consolation from. contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal, and antici- pating the (to him) rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his gormandizing fancies: at the Chop-house: he frequents.” ‘Never intrust a Cook-Teaser with the important office of Carver,—or place: him within reach of a Sauce-boat. ‘These Chop-house Cormorants, who * Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,” p 2 nets 52 . INVITATIONS TO DINNER. are, generally, tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people,—for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable—and killingly agreeable to the Guests—they are ever onthe watch to distribute themselves—the dainties—which it is the peculiar part of the Master and Mistress to serve out, and is to’them the most pleasant part of the business of the Banquet,—the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification, which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the Feast: such Gentry are the terror of all good Housewives ;—to obtain their favourite Cut—they will so unmercifully mangle your Joints,—that a dainty dog would hardly get a meal from them after,—which managed by the considerative hands of an old Housekeeper, would furnish a decent Dinner for a large Family.”—Vide “ Almanach des Gourmands.” ; I once heard a gentle hint on this subject, given to a Blue-mould fancier, who by looking too long at a Stilton cheese, was at last. completely oyercome by his Eye exciting his Appetite, till it became quite ungovernable and unconscious of every thing but the méty object of his contemplation; he began to pick out in no small portions, the primest parts his Eye could select from the centre. of the Cheese. The good-natured Founder of the Feast, highly amused at the Ecstacies each morsel created in its passage over the palate of the enraptured Gourmand, thus encouraged the perseverance of his Guest—“ Cut away, my dear sir, cut away, use no Ceremony, I pray: —I hope you will pick out all the best of my Cheese—- THE RIND and the ROTTEN will do very well for my Wofe and Family !!” INVITATIONS TO DINNER. Half the trouble of warvt1NG aT TABLE may be saved, by giving each guest, two plates, two knives and forks, two pieces of bread, a spoon, a wine glass, and a tum- bler, and placing the Wines and Sauces, and the MaGazine or Taste, 463, &c. as a Dormant, in the centre of the table; one neighbour may then help another. Dinner tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or attended—an active waiter will have enough to do, to attend upon halfa dozen active Eaters—there should be half as many Candles as there are Guests—and their flame be about 18 inches above the table—our foolish modern pompous Candelabras, seem intended to illuminate the Ceiling, rather than to give light on the Plates, &ec. AF FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS*, SERVANTS, ne N.B. Readthe preceding Prerace, &c. and “ THE RUDIMENTS OF __ COOKERY,” before the following Address. On your first coming into a family, lose no time in immediately getting into the good graces of your fellow-servants,—that you may learn from them the customs of the Kitchen, and the various rules and orders of the House. — : Take care, to be on good terms with the servant who waits at table;—you may make use of him as your Centinel to inform you how your work has pleased in the parlour, and by his report you may be enabled in © some measure to rectify any mistake :—but request the favour of an interview with your Master or Mistress,— depend as little as possible, on second-hand opinions —judge of your Employers, from your own observations, and their behaviour to you,—not from any idle reports from the other servants, who, if your Master or Mistress inadvertently drop a word in your praise—will imme- diately take alarm, and fearing your being more in * A Chapter of Advice to Cooks, will, we hope, be found as useful as it is original: all we have on this subject inthe works of our predecessors, is the following: ‘I shall strongly recommend to all Cooks of either sex, to keep their Stomachs free from strong liquors till @fter Dinner, and their Noses from snuff."—Vide CLERMONT’s Professed Cook, p. 30, 8vo. London, 1776. FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 55 favour than themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it, by pretending to take a prodigious liking to you, and poisoning your mind in such a manner as to destroy all your confidence, &c. in your Employers, and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying you away—will take care that you have no anete while you stay. If you are a good Cook,— and have tolerably fair play,—you will soon become a favourite domestic —if your Master is a Man of Taste—but never boast of his approbation, for in proportion as they think you rise in his estimation—you will excite all the tricks, that Envy, Hatred, and Malice, and all Uncharitable- ness, can suggest to your fellow-servants ;—every one of whom—if less diligent,—or less favoured than yourself—will be your Enemy. While we warn you against making others your Enemy—we must caution you also to take care that you do not Yourself become your own and greatest Enemy.—‘“‘ Favourites are never in greater danger of falling, than when in the greatest favour’—which often begets a careless inattention to the commands of their employers, and insolent overbearance to their equals — a gradual neglect of duty—and a corresponding for- feiture of that regard—which can only be preserved by the means it was created. If your Employers are so pleased with your conduct as to treat you as a friend rather than a servant—do not let their kindness excite your self-conceit, so as to make you for a moment forget you are one. Con- descension even to a proverb produces Contempt—in inconsiderate minds — and to such the very means 56 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKs. which Benevolence takes to cherish attention to duty, becomes the cause of the evil you wished to prevent. To be an agreeable Companion in the Kitchen,— without compromising your duty to your Patrons in the Parlour,—requires no small portion of good sense and good nature—in a word, you must “ do as you would be done by.” ACT FOR,—ANDL SPEAK OF EVERY BODY AS IF THEY WERE PRESENT. We hope the Culinary Student who peruses ee pages, will be above adopting, the common, mean and base, and ever unsuccessful way of ‘ holding with the Hare, and running with the Hounds,’—of currying favour with fellow-servants — by flattering them, and ridiculing the Mistress when in the Kitchen,—and then prancing into the Parlour—and purring about her, and making opportunities, to display all the little faults you can find (or invent) that will tell well against those in the Kitchen—assuring them, on your return,—that they were praised,—for whatever you heard them blamed,—and so, excite them to run more extremely into any little error—which you think will be most displeasing to their Employers—watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into their unsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to bear witness of your Iniquity-—making your Victims believe, it is all out of your sincere regard for them— assuring them (as Betty says in the Man of the World,) ‘¢ That indeed you are no busy body that loves fending nor proving, but hate all tittling and tattling—and gossipping and back-biting,” &c. &c. Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 57 speak disrespectfully of a Master or Mistress with whom they have lived some time—it is a sure sign - that they have some sinister scheme against yourself— ‘if they have not been well treated, why have they stayed? , «« There is nothing more detestable than defamation, —I have no scruple to rank a Slanderer, with a Murderer or an Assassin.—Those who assault the reputation of their Benefactors — and ‘rob you of ‘that which nought enriches them’ — would destroy your Life, if they could do it with equal impunity.” “If you hope to gain the respect and esteem of others, and the approbation of your own Heart—be respectful and faithful to your Superiors; obliging and good natured to your fellow-servants-——and charitable to all.” ““Let your character be remarkable for Industry, and Moderation—jour Manners and Deportment, for modesty and humility; and your Dress distinguished for simplicity, frugality and neatness,—if you outshine your companions in finery, you will most inevitably excite their Envy, and make them your Enemies.” ‘¢ Do every thing at the proper time.” *« Keep every thing in its proper place.” “ Use every thing for its proper purpose.” “* Never think any part of your business too trifling. to be well done.” ‘¢ Kagerly embrace every opportunity, of learning any thing which may be useful to yourself—or of doing any thing which may benefit others.” — DaLLaway’s D5 58) ° FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Servant’s Monitor, 1815, p. 165, &c. a work well neapeh _the perusal of Young Housekeepers. - hey Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight affront. <‘‘ Come when you are called, and do what you are bid.” 2 Place yourself in your Master’s situation, and then, consider, what you would expect from oo if he were in yours. ' Although there may be ‘“ more last thain ied churches,” it is not very easy to find many more good ones.— * ‘“« A rolling stone never gathers moss.” ‘“‘ Honesty is the best Policy.” ‘« A still tongue, makes a wise head.” ‘ Saucy answers are highly aggravating—and answer no good purpose.” uh Let your Master or Mistress scold ever so much, or be ever so unreasonable ;—as ‘‘ a soft answer turneth away wrath’—‘‘ so will silence, or a mild answer, be the best a servant can make.” “If your Employers are hasty, and have Seatabe without reason—bear it patiently—they will soon see their error, and be happy to make you amends— muttering on leaving the room—or slamming the door after you, is as bad as an impertinent reply—it is, in fact, showing that you would be impertinent if you dared.” “A faithful Servant, will not only never speak disrespectfully to her Employers — but will not hear disrespectful words said of them.” —Trusner’s Do- mestic Management, p. 12, 17, &c. FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 59 Apply direct to your Employers, and beg of them to explain to you, as fully as possible, how they like their Victuals dressed,— whether much — or little done’. Of what complexion they wish the Roasts, of a gold colour, or well browned, and if they like them frothed ? "Do they like Sours and Sauczs, thick or thin, or white or brown, clean or full in the mouth? What accompaniments they are partial to? What Flavours they fancy? especially of Spice and HERBS. Ba Namque coquus domiai debet habere gulam.”—MaRTIAL. It is impossible that the most Accomplished Cook can please their palates, till she has learned their particular taste—this, it will hardly be expected, she can hit exactly the first time—however, the hints we have here given, and in the 7th and 8th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery, will very much facilitate the ascertainment of this Main Chance of getting into their favour. Be extremely cautious of Seasoning High,—leave it to the Eaters, to add the piquante condiments, according to their own palate and fancy: for this purpose, “ THe MaGazine or Taste,” or “ Sauce-boxr*,” (No. 463.) will be found an invaluable acquisition — its contents will, instantaneously, produce any flavour that may be desired. ** De gustibus non est disputandum.” Tastes are as different as Faces,—and without a most attentive observation of the directions given by her '* Meat that is not to be cut till it is Cold, must be thoroughly done, especially in summer. 60 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Employers, the most experienced Cook will never be esteemed a sagacious Palatician. ' It'will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous Gourmand, who likes his Chops broiled brown (and done enough, so that they can appear at table decently, — and not blush when they are cut,) to be told that sorhe of the Customers at Dolly’s Chop-house choose to have them only half-done, Brick that this is the best wey of eating them. We all think that is the best way, eine We velisi best, and which agrees best with our Stomach :—in this, Reason and Fashion—all powerful as they are on most occasions,—yield, to the imperative caprice . the Palate. | Chacun a son Gott. “ The IRIsHMAN loves Usquebaugh, the Scor loves Ale call’d Blue-Cay,— ‘The WELCHMAN, he loves, Toasted Cheese, and makes his mouth like a iy Monse-trap.” Our Irauran neighbours regale themselves with Macaroni and Parmesan, and eat some things, which we call Carion.—Vide Ray’s Travels, p. 362 and 406, Whilst the Enerisuman boasts of his Roast Beef, Plum Pudding, and Porter— The Frencuman feeds on his favourite Frog, and Soupemaigre— The Tartar feasts on Horse-flesh— The Cu1naMAn on Dogs— The GREENLANDER preys on Garbage and Train Oiu—and each “ blesses his Stars and thinks it Luxury.”—What at one time or place, is considered as t FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 61 beautiful, fragrant, and savoury, at another — is regarded as deformed and disgustful*. Ask a Toad what is Beauty, the supremely beautiful, the TO KALON! He will tell you, it is my Wife,—with two large eyes projecting out of her little head, a broad and flat neck, yellow belly, and dark brown Back.—With a Guinea Negro, it is a greasy black skin, hollow eyes and a flat nose.—Put the question to the Devil, and he will tell you, that Beauty is,a pair of Horns, four Claws, and a Tail.”— VoLTaiReE’s Philos. Dict. 8vo. p. 32. Assafatida was called by the Ancients, “ Foop ror THE Gops.” The Persians, Indians, and other Eastern people, now eat it in Sauces, and call it by that name:—the Germans call it ‘‘ Devil's Dung.” — Vide Pomet on Drugs. Garlick, and Clove, or Allspice, combined in certain proportions, produce a flavour very similar to Assa- foetida. ° The organ of Taste is more rarely found in perfec- tion, and is sooner spoiled by the operations of Time, excessive use, &c. than either of our other senses. There are as various degrees of sensibility of Palate, as there are of gradations of perfection in the Eyes and Ears of Painters and Musicians :—after all the pains which the Editor has taken to explain the Harmony of subtle relishes,—without nature has given the Organ of Taste in a due degree, this book will, alas! no moremake an Osporn}t—than it can a REYNOLDs—or an ARNE. See Chapter xv. ‘‘ Chaque Pays, chaque Coutume.”’—Cours Gastrono- mique, Bvo. 1809, p. 162. + Cook to Sik JosePH Banks, Bart., late President of the Royal Society. 62 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Where nature has been most bountiful of. this faculty, its sensibility is so easily blunted,—by a variety of unavoidable circumstances, —that © the Tongue, is very seldom, in the highest condition for appreciating delicate flavours, or accurately estimating, the relative force; of the various materials, the Cook employs in the composition of an harmonious relish; — Cooks express this refinement of Combination by saying, a well finished Ragout ‘“ tastes of every thing, and tastes of nothing:” (this is ‘‘ kitchen gibberish,” for a Sauce in which the component parts are well proportioned). However delicately sensitive nature may pen formed the organs of Taste,—it is only during those few happy moments,—that they are perfectly awake, and in perfect good humour—(alas! how very seldom they are) that the most accomplished and experienced Cook, has a chance, of working with any degree of certainty, without the auxiliary tests of the balance and the measure :—by the help of these, when you are once- right, it is your own fault if you are ever otherwise. The sense of Taste, depends much on the health of the Individual, and is hardly ever for a single hour, in the same state,— such is the extremely intimate sympathy, between the Stomach and the Tongue, that in proportion as the former is Empty*, the latter is acute and sensitive:—this is the cause that “ good *Son Diner sera toujours une piece en trois actes, od la gradation des saveurs suivra celle qu’ Aristote prescrit pour lintérét ThéAtral. “Tl faut préparer avec art les jouissances du gourmand; Le Premier FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 63 Appetite is the best Sauce’—-and that the dish we find relishing and savoury at Luncheon, — is Pic at Dinner,—and at Supper quite tasteless. To taste any thing in perfection, the Tongue must be moistened, or the substance applied to it contain moisture—the nervous papille which constitute this sense are roused to still more lively sensibility by Salt —Sugar—Aromatics, &c. If the Palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one of the best ways of refreshing it—is to masticate an Apple, or to wash your mouth well with Milk. The incessant Exercise of Tasting, which a Cook is obliged to submit to during the Education of her Tongue,—frequently impairs the very faculty, she is trying to improve. “ Tis true—’tis pity—and pity ” (says a grand Gourmand,) “‘ ’tis true,—her too anxious perseverance to penetrate the mysteries. of Palatics, may diminish the tact, exhaust the power and destiay the Index without which all her labour is in vain.” Therefore, a sagacious Cook, Se of idly and wantonly wasting the excitability of her Palate~on the sensibility of which, her reputation and fortune depends, when she has’ ascertained her relative strength of the flavour of the various ingredients she employs, will call in the Balance and the Measure, to service doit @tre doux et peu épicé ; c’est Vacte d’exposition: Le Second— plus intéressant, plus relevé: Le T'roisi¢me, appeler ensuite a son secours le sticre et ’ambrosie, s’armer des brilans aromates, des spiritueux volatiles, et tempérer de temps en temps leur énergie par la fraicheur des fruits savoureux.”—Cours Gastronomique, p. 67 and 312. 64 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 7 do the ordinary business, and endeavour to preserve her Organ of Taste, with the utmost care, that it may be a faithful Oracle, to refer to, on Grand occasions, and new Compositions*, — of these an ingenious Cook may form as endless a variety, as a Musician with his seven notes, or a Painter with his colours:—read chapters 7 and 8 of the Rudiments of Cookery. Receive as the highest testemonies of your Employer's regard, whatever observations they may make on your. work — such admonitions are the most unequivocal proofs, of their desire to make you thoroughly under- stand their taste—and their wish to retain you in their service —or they would not take the trouble to teach you. i * “The diversities of Taste are so many andso considerable, that it seemeth strange to see the matter treated of, both by Philosophers and Phisicians with so much scantiness and defect: for the subject is not barren, but yieldeth much and pleasant variety, and doth also appear to be of great importance.” —From Dr. GREw’s Anatomy of Plants, fol. 1682, p. 286. The Dr. enumerates sixteen simple tastes: however, it is difficult to define more than six.—ist Bitter as Wormwood. 2d. Sweet as Sugar. 3d. Sour as Vinegar. 4th. Salé as Brine. Sth. Cold as Ice. 6th. Hot as Brandy. Compound tastes, innumerable, may be formed by the combination of these ss tastes —as words are of letters.” ** Si Passociation de certaines couleurs plaisent a )’ceil, tandis que d’autres choquent la vue, de méme certaines saveurs mariées ensemble flattent le gout, tandis que d’autres répugnent au palais: ainsi le jaune et le violet, le vert avec le rose font un effet agréable; le bleu perd sa nuance quand il est mis sur du vert: ainsi ie sucre s’allie trés-bien avec les alimens doux, acides on amers; mais il ne peut s’associer avec les substances salées: on doit done étudier ces convenances. Je vais plus loin; il faut savoir que dans la bouche, - les organes du goit, distribués sur différens points, ne sont pas tous affectés par les mémes saveurs. Le piment, par exemple, pique principalement les bords latéraux de la langue; la canelle stimule spécialement Je bout de ce méme muscle ; le poivre fait sentir son ardeur sur le milieu, les amers dans le fond de la bouche, les spiritueux au palais, et sur les jones; il est meme des substances qui ne sont sapides que dans le gosier, et d’autres on estomac.”—Cours Gastronomique, p. 65. FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 65 Enter into all their plans of Economy*, and endeavour to make the most of every thing, as well for your own honour as your master’s profit —take care that the Meat which is to make its appearance again in the Parlour, is handsomely cut with a sharp knife—and put on a clean dish—take care of the Gravy, see (No. 326,) which is left, it will save many pounds of Meat in making sauce for Hashes, Poultry, and many little dishes. . Many things may be re-dressed, in a different form, from that in which they were first served, and improve the appearance of the table without increasing the expense of it. CoLtp Fisu.—Soles—Cod—Whitings—Smelts, &c. may be cut into bits, and put into Escallop Shells— with cold Oyster, Lobster, or Shrimp Sauce, and bread crumbed and put into a Dutch Oven, and browned like scalloped Oysters. (No. 182.) The best way To warm coLtp Meat is to sprinkle the joint over with a little salt, put in a Durcu Oven, at some distance before a gentle fire, that it may warm gradually—watch it carefully, and keep turning it till it is quite hot and brown; it will take from twenty minutes to three quarters of an hour, according to its thickness—serve it up with Gravy ;—this is much better than Hashing it, and by doing it nicely, a Cook will get great credit. Pou.rry, (No. 530*.); Frizp. Fisn, (See No. 145.) &c. may be re-dressed in this way. * Tam persuaded that no Servant ever saved her Master sixpence, but she found it in the end in her own pocket.”—TrusLer’s Domestic Manage- ment, p. 11. 66 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Take care of the Liquor you have boiled Poultry or Meat in: in five minutes you make it into EXCELLENT Sour—see Obs. to (No. 555.) and 229, No.5, and the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. bats -Nogood Housewife has any pretensions to Rational Economy. who boils Animal food without converting the Broth into some sort of Soup. However the uninitiated in the Mystery of Seip making—may elevate the external appendage of his Olfactory Organ at the mention of “* Por Liquor,” if he tastes (No. 5, or 218, 555, &c.), he will be as well pleased with it, asa Frenchman is with “ Potage @ la Cameroni,” of which it is said “ a single- spoonful will lap the Palate in Elysium, —and while a drop of it remains on the Tongue, each other sense is eclipsed by the voluptuous thrilling of the Lingual nerves !! Broty oF FraGMENTs.—When you dress a large Dinner, you may make good Broth, or Portable Soup, (No. 252.) at very small cost, by taking care of all the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry you are going to use; wash them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as much cold water as will cover them; set your stewpan on a hot fire; when it boils, take off all the scum, and set it on again to simmer gently: put in two carrots, two turnips, a large onion, three blades of pounded mace, and a head of celery; some mushroom parings will be a great addition. Let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours, strain it through a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a great deal of expense in buying Gravy Meat. _ Have the Dust, &c. removed regularly once in a fortnight,—and have your KircHEN CHIMNEY swept FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 67 once a month;— many good Dinners have been spoiled and many houses burnt down by the soot falling—the best security against this, is for the Cook to have a long birch broom, and every morning brush down all the soot within reach of it.—Give notice to your employers when the contents of your Coa CeLar are diminished to a chaldron. It will be to little purpose to procure good Provi- sions,—without you have proper Utensils * to prepare them in: the most expert Artist cannot perform his work in a perfect manner without proper instruments ; —you cannot have neat work—without nice tools, nor can you dress Victuals well—without an apparatus appropriate to the work required. See lst page of Chapter VII. of the Rudiments of Cookery. In those houses where the Cook enjoys the confi- dence of her employer so much as to be intrusted with the care of the store-room, which is not very common, she wall keep an exact account of every thing as it comes in, and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every article she purchases—and_ occasionally—will (and. it may not be amiss, to jocosely drop a hint to those who supply them—that she does) re-weigh them, for her own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer, and will not trust the key of this room to any one; she will also keep an account of every thing she takes from it, and manage with as much consideration and frugality as if it was her own property she was using, endea- vouring to disprove the adage, that “‘ PLENTY makes * “ A Surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair of Sheers, or open a vein with an Oyster-Knife, as a Cook pretend to dressa Dinner without proper Tools.”—VERRALL’s Cookery, 8vo. 1759, p- vi- 68 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Waste,” and remembering that “ wilful waste makes woeful want.” The honesty of a Cook must be above all suspicion : she must obtain, and, (in spite of the numberless Tempta- tions, &c. that daily offer to bend her from it,) preserve a character of spotless Integrity, and useful Industry*, remembering that itis the fairprice of INDEPEN DENCE, which all wish for, but none without it can hope for: only a Fool or a Madman will be so silly or so crazy, as to expect to reap, where he has been too idle to sow. Very few modern built Town-houses have a proper place to preserve provisions in—the best substitute, is a HanGine-sare, which you may contrive to suspend in an airy situation, and when you order Meat, Poutrry, or Fisu, tell the Tradesman when you intend to dress it,—he will then have it in his power to serve © you with provision that will do him credit, which the finest Meat, &c. in the world, will never do; unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender. » * Many Cooks miss excellent opportunities of making themselves inde- pendent,—by their Idleness,—in refusing any place, however profitable, &¢.— if there is not a Kitchen Maid kept to wait upon them. There are many Invalids who require a good Cook, and as (after reading this Book they will understand how much) their comfort and effective existence depends on their food being properly prepared, will willingly pay handsome wages—(who would not rather pay the Cook than the Doctor 2)— but have so little work in the Kitchen—that one person may do it all with the utmost ease, without injury to their health,—which is not the case in a large family, where the poor Cook is roasting and stewing all day—and is often deprived of her rest at night. No artists have greater need to “‘ make Hay while the Sun shines,” and timely provide for the infirmities of Age. «‘ It is melancholy to find, that according to the authority of a certain great French author—‘‘ Cooks, half stewed, and half roasted, when unable to work any longer, generally retire to some unknown corner, and die in forlornness and want.”—-BLackwoop’s Edinb. Mag. vol. vii. p, 668, FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 69 If you have a well-ventilated Larder, in a shady, dry situation, you may make still surer, by ordering in your Meat and Poultry, such a time before you want it as will render it tender, which the finest meat cannot be, unless hung a proper time ; (see 2d Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery;) according to the season, and nature of the meat, &c., but always as “ les bons hommes de bouche de France,” say, till it ws “ assez mortifiée.” Permitting this process to proceed to a certain degree, renders Meat much more easy of solution in the Stomach, and for those whose digestive faculties are delicate, rt 1s of the utmost importance, that it be attended to with the greatest nicety,—for the most consummate skill in the Culinary preparation of it, will not compensate the want of attention to this. Read Ods. to No. 68. Meat that is thoroughly Roasted, or Boiled, eats much shorter and tenderer, and is in proportion more digestible, than that which is under done. You will be enabled to manage much better, if your Employers will make out a Brut or Fare ror THE Week, on the Saturday before—for example for a Family of half a dozen— : Sunday...... Roast Beef (No. 19.), and My Pudding (No. 554.) Monday ....Fowl (Nos. 16, 58.) Do. boiled. Tuesday ....Calf-Head (No. 10.) Apple Pye. Wednesday... Ley of Mutton (No. 1.), or (No. 23.) Thursday ..Do. broiled or hashed (No. 487.), or (No. 484.), Pan Cakes. Friday. .....Fish (No. 145.), Pudding (No. 554.) Saturday ..Vish, or Eggs and Bacon (No. 545.) It is an excellent plan, to have certain things on certain days—When your Butcher or Poulterer knows what you will want, he has a better chance of doing his best for 70 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. you: and never think of ordering Bezr For, nearest —except for Sunday.. : When the Weather or Season* is very vlofvosiiets for keeping. Meat, §:c.—give: him, the choice of sending that which is in the best order for dressing —2. e, either Ribs” or Sir-Loin of Beef—or Leg— Loin — or Neck ae Mutton, &c. . ef _ Meat in which you can detect, the slightest trace of putrescency, has reached its highest degree of tenders ness, and should be dressed without delay; but before this period, which. in some kinds. of meat: is offensive, the due degree of inteneration may. be ascertained, by its yielding readily to the pressure of the: finger, and: by its opposing little resistance to an en to bind the joint. Although we strongly radubeabead that Animal: Food should be. huug up in the open, air;.till its fibres have. lost some degree of their toughness—yet, let us: be: clearly understood,, also. to. warn you—that if kept till it loses its natural sweetness—it is as detrimental to Health, as it.is disagreeable to;the Smell and: Taste. Iw VERY COLD WEATHER— bring your Meat, Poultry, &c. into the kitchen, early.in the morning—if * The Season of the year has considerable influence on the quality of Butcher meat—depending upon the more or less plentiful ‘supply of-Food, upon the periodical change which takes place in the:body of the Animal, and upon temperature. The flesh of most full grown Quadrfupeds. is: in highest season during the first months of Winter, after having enjoyed the.advantage of the abundance of fresh summer food. Its flavour then begins to be injured by the turnips, &c. given as winter food, and in Spring it gets lean from deficiency of food. Although,Beef and Mutton are never: absolutely out of season, or not fit for the table, they are best in November, December, and January. Pork is absolutely bad, except during the Winter.”—Supplement to the Edinburgh Ency, Brit. p» 328. FRIENDLY. ADVICE TO. COOKS. 71 you roast—boil—or stew it ever.so gently and ever so long—if it be frozen—it will continue tough and’ un- chewable. . Without very watchful attention to this, the most skilful Cook in the world will get no credit, be she ever so careful in the management of her Spit or her Stewpan. , _ The time Meat should hang to be tender,—depends on the heat and humidity of the air: if it is not kept long enough, it is hard and tough;—if too long, it loses. its flavour:—it should be hung where it will have a thorough air, and be dried with a cloth night and morning, to keep it from damp and mustiness.. Before you dress.it, wash. it well,—if it is: roasting Beef, pare off the outside. If you fear Meat*, &c. will not keep till the time it is wanted,—par-roast or par-boil it,—it will then keep a couple of days. longer, when it may be dressed in the usual way, only it will be done in rather less TIME» +, The Cook and the Butcher as often lose their credit, by Meat being dressed too fresh, as the Fish- monger does by fish that has been kept too long. . ** TLARDERS, PANTRIES and SAaFEs—must be sheltered from the Sun, and otherwise removed from the heat, be dry, and if possible havea current of dry, cool air continually passing through them. The freezing temperature, i. e. 32 degrees of Fahrenheit, is a perfect preservative from putrefaction—warm moist muggy weather is the. worst for keeping meat.—The south wind is especially unfavourable, and lightning is quickly destructive; but the greatest Enemy you have to encounter, is the Flesh-fly, which becomes troublesome about the month of May, and continues so till towards Michaelmas.”—For further Obs. on this subject, See ‘* The Experienced Butcher,’ p. 160. y 9 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Dr. Franklin in his philosophical experiments tells _ us, that if Game or Poultry be killed by Erectricitry it will become tender in the twinkling of an eye, and if it be dressed immediately, will be delicately tender. During the sultry SUMMER MONTHS, it is almost impossible to procure meat that is not either tough— or tainted—the former, is as improper as the latter for the unbraced stomachs of relaxed Valetudinarians— for whom, at this season, Poultry—Stews, &c., and Vegetable Soups, are the most suitable food—when the digestive organs are debilitated by the extreme heat—-and profuse perspiration requires an increase of liquid to restoré equilibrium in the constitution. _ [hace taken much more pains than any of my predecessors, to teach the young Cook how to perform, in the best manner, the common business of her profession; —being well grounded in the RUDIMENTS of COOKERY, she will be able to execute the orders that are given her, with ease to herself, and satisfaction to her Employers, and send up a delicious dinner, with half the usual Expense and Trouble. I have endeavoured to lessen the labour, of those who wish to be thoroughly acquainted with their profession; and an attentive perusal of the following pages, will save them much of the irksome drudgery, attending an apprenticeship at the Stove ;—an ordeal so severe, that few pass it without irreparable injury to their Health *; and many lose their lives, before they learn their business. * “ Buy it, with health, strength, and resolution, And pay for it, a robust constitution,” ‘ Preface tothe Cook’s cue: 1758. FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 73 ’ © To encourage the best performance of the machinery of Mastication, the Cook must take care that her / Dinner is not only well cooked—but that each dish be sent to table, with its proper accompaniments—in the neatest, and most elegant manner. Remember, to excite the good opinion of the Eye, is the first step towards awakening the Appetite. Decoration is much more rationally employed, in rendering a plain wholesome nutritious dish inviting, than in the elaborate embellishments which are crowded about Trifles and Custards. Endeavour to avoid over-dressing Roasts and Boils, &c. and over-seasoning Soups and Sauces with Salt, Pepper, &c.—it is a fault which cannot be mended. If your Roasts, &c. are a little under-done; with the assistance of the Stewpan,—the Gridiron,—or the Dutch Oven,—you may soon rectify the mistake made,—with the Spit or the Pot. If over-done, the best juices of the Meat are evapo- rated,—it will serve merely to distend the Stomach, and if the sensation of Hunger be removed, it is at the price of an Indigestion. — The chief business of Cookery, is to render food easy of digestion—and to facilitate nutrition. This is most completely accomplished ‘by Plain Cookery in perfection—1. e. neither over nor under-done. See the preface to “ Te Cook’s Cookery,” page 9. This work, which is very scarce, was, we believe, written to develope the mistakes in what He callg “ the Thousand Errors,” i, e. “ The Lady’s Cookery,” i.e, Mrs. Glasse’s, i. e. Sir John Hill’s. E ee - 74 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. With all your care, you will not get much credit by Cooking to perfection, if more than One Dish goes to. table at a time. To be eaten in perfection, the interval between Meat being taken out of the Stewpan,and its being put into the Mouth, must be as short as possible:—but Ceremony, | most that formidable enemy to good Cheer, too often de- crees it otherwise, and the Guests seldom get a bit of an ‘< Entremet” till it-is half cold. (See No. 485.)—So | much time is often lost in placing every thing in Apple- pye order,—that long before Dinner is announced, all becomes lukewarm,—and to complete the mortification of the grand Gourmand, his meat is put on a sheet of Ice in the shape of a Plate, which instantly converts the Gravy into Jelly and the Fat into a something which puzzles his teeth and the roof of his mouth as much as if he had Birdlime to masticate :—a complete Meat Skreen will answer the purpose of a Hot closet Plate-warmer, &c.—See Index. It will save you infinite trouble and anxiety, if you can prevail on your employers to use the “saUCE-Box,” No. 463, hereinafter described in the chapter of Sauces. With the help of this “‘ Macazine or Taste,” every one in company may flavour their Soup and Sauce, and adjust the vibrations of their Palate, exactly to their own fancy :—but if the Cook give a decidedly predo- minant, and piguante gout to a dish, to tickle the ‘Tongue of two or three visitors, whose taste she knows, she may thereby make the Dinner disgusting to all the other guests. Never undertake more work than you are quite teeter FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 70 certain: you can do well;—and if you are ordered to prepare a larger Dinner than you think you can send up with ease and neatness,—or to dress any dish that you are not acquainted with, rather than run any risk of spoiling any thing—-(by one fault, You may perhaps lose all your credit)— request your em- ployers to let you have some help.—They will ac- quit you for pleading guilty of inability—but if you make an attempt, and fail, they may vote it a capital offence. Do not trust any part of your work to others without earefully over-looking them; whatever faults they com- mit, You will be censured for—if you have forgotten any article which is indispensable for the day’s dinner, request your employers to send one of the other servants for it.—The Cook must never quit her Post, till her work is entirely finished. It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all things done as they should. be, and all done to- ‘gether—at that critical moment when the Dinner Bell sounds—* to the Banquet.” ** A feast must be without a fault; And, if ’tis not all right, ’tis naught.” But * Good nature will some failings overlook, Forgive mischance, not errors of the Cook ; As, if no salt is thrown about the dish, Or nice crisp’d parsley scatter’d on the fish ; Shall we in Passion from our Dinner fly, And hopes-of pardon to the Cook deny, For things which Mrs. Guasse herself might oversee, And all mankind commit as well as she?” Vide Kine’s Art of Cookery. E 2 76 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. Such is the endless variety of Culinary preparations, it would be as vain and fruitless a search, as that for the Philosopher’s Stone, to expect to find a Cook who is quite perfect in all the operations of the Spit,—the Stewpan,—and the Rolling-Pin:—you will as soon find a Watchmaker who can make, put together, and regulate every part of a Watch. “« The universe cannot produce that Cook who knows how to do every branch of Cookery well, be his Genius as great as possible.”—Vide the Cook’s Cookery, 8vo. page 40. THE BEST RULE FOR MARKETING, is to pay READY MONEY for every thing, and to deal with the most respectable Tradesmen in your neighbourhood. If you leave it to their Integrity to supply you with a good article, at the fair market price,—I have, from. my own experience,—every reason to believe, you will be supplied with better Provisions, and at as reasonable a rate, as those Bargain-Hunters, who trot “ around around around about” a market, till they are trapped to buy some wnchewable old Poultry—tough Tup-Mutton— stringy Cow-Beef—or stale unseasonable Fish*—at a very little less than the price of prime and proper food :—with savings like these, they toddle home in triumph, cackling all the way, like a Goose, that has got ankle deep into good luck. All the skill of the most accomplished base will avail nothing, unless she is furnished with PRIME provisions. The best way to procure these is to deal with shops of established character:—you may pay, perhaps, Ten per Cent more than you would were you _ ® See the MARKETING TaBLEs at the end of the Work. eS FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 77 to deal with those who pretend to sell cheap—but you will be more than in proportion better served. Every Trade has its tricks and deceptions,—those who follow them can deceive you if they please,—and they are too apt to do so, if you provoke the exercise of their over-reaching talent*. Challenge them to a game at “ Catch who Can,” by entirely relying on your own judgment: and you will soon find nothing but very long experience can make you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmost advantage: ; Befare you go to Market, look over your Larder, and consider well what things are wanting —especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated family can suffer a disorderly Caterer, to be jumping in and out to the Chandler’s Shop on a Sunday morning. Give your directions to your assistants, and begin your Business early in the Morning, or it will be impossible to have the Dinner ready at the time it is ordered. To be half an hour after the time, is such a frequent fault, that there is the more merit in being ready at the * “ He who will not be cheated @ Jittle,—must be content to be abused a great deal ;—the first lesson in the art of comfortable Economy, is to learn to submit cheerfully to small impositions,—if you do not, you will continually be in hot water. t “‘If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a second word, if the first will not do—nor drop the least hint of an imposition :—the only method to induce him an abatement, is the hope of future favours,—pay the demand—and deal with the Gentleman no more;—but do not let him see that you are displeased, or as soon as you are out of sight,—your Reputation will suffer as much as your Pocket has.”—TRusLER’s Way to be Rich, 8vo. 1776. p. 85 78 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS, appointed hour. This is a difficult task, and in the best regulated family you can only be sure of your time by proper arrangements. With all our love of punctuality, we must not Hositet that the first consideration must still be, that: the Dinner ‘be well done when’tis done.”—If any accident occurs, which is likely to prevent. your sending the Soup, &c. to table at the moment it is expected, send up a message to your employers, stating the circum- stance, and bespeak their patience for as many minutes as you think you shall want to be ready.—This is better than either keeping the Company waiting without an apology; or dishing your Dinner before it is done enough, and so disgusting the Stomachs of the | guests at the first appearance of it. Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, should have a DIAL of about twelve inches diameter, placed over the Kitchen fire-place, carefully regulated, to keep time exactly with the clock in the Hall or dining Parlour;—with a frame on one side, containing A TASTE TABLE, of the peculiarities of the master’s palate, and the particular rules and orders of his Kitchen;—and on the other side, of the REwARDS given to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful service. In small Families where a Dinner is seldom given— a great deal of preparation is required, and the pre- ceding day must be devoted to the business of the Kitchen. On these occasions a Chair-woman is often employed to do the dirty work; but we rather advise you to hire FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 79 a Cook to help to dress the Dinner—this would be very little more expense — and the work got through much better. When you have a VERY LARGE ENTERTAINMENT to prepare, get your Sours and Saucers, Forcs- MEATS, &c. ready the day before —and read the 7th Chapter of our Rudiments of Cookery:—many Maps Disues may also be prepared the day before they are to go to table—but do not do them quite enough the first day—that mer may not be overdone by warming up again. Prepare every thing you can, the day before the Dinner, and order every thing else to be sent in early in the Morning—if the Tradesmen forget at—it will allow you time to send for it. The Pastry,—JELLizs, &c. you may prepare while the Broths are doing: then truss your Game and Poul- try,—and shape your Collops, Cutlets, &c.,—ard trim them neatly —cut away all Flaps and Gristles, &c. — No- thing should go to Table but what has indisputable preten- stons to be eaten ! Put your Mabe Disugs in plates, and arrange them upon the dresser in regular order :—next see that your Roasts and Boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed, &c. and quite ready for the Spit or the Pot. Have your VEGETABLES neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean washed in the cullender :—provide a tin dish with partitions to hold your fine herbs; Onions and Shallots--Parsley —Thyme— Tarragon—Chervil—and Burnet — minced very jine, and Lemon peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped very small, — Pepper and Salt ready mixed,—and your Spice-box and Salt-cellar 80 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. always ready for action,—that every thing you want may be at hand for your Stove-work,—and not be scampering about the kitchen in a whirlpool of con- fusion, hunting after these trifles, while the Dinner is waiting... In one drawer under your Sprce-Box, keep ready eround, in well stopped Bottles, the several spices separate; and also that mixture of them which is called “ Ragout Powder : (No. 457.), or (No. 460.)— in another, keep your dried and powdered, Sweet,— —Savoury,—and Soup-herbs, &c., and a set of weights and scales :—you may have a third drawer, containing Flavouring Essences, &c., an invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces: (see the account of the “ Macazine or Taste,” or “ Sauce- Box,” (No. 463.) Have also ready, some THICKENING, made of the best white flour sifted, mixed with soft water with a wooden spoon till itis the consistence of thick batter,— a bottle of plain Brownine (No. 322.), some strained Lemon-juice, and some good Glaze, or PortTaBar Soup, (No. 252.) Nothing can be done in perfection, that must be done in a hurry ;—therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your Master and Mistress, and do eredit to yourself, set a high value on your charaeter for punctuality: this shows the establishment is orderly, is extremely gratifying to the Master and his Guests, —and is most praiseworthy in the Attendants. _ But, remember, you cannot obtain this desirable reputation, without good management in every respect ; —if you wish to ensure Ease and Independence in the TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. To reduce our Culinary Operations to as exact a certainty, as the nature of the processes would admit of ;—we have, wherever it was needful, given the Quan- tities of each article. THe Weicuts, are Avoirdupois. THe MrasuRre, —the liquid graduated glass of the Apothecaries ; this appeared the most accurate and convenient ;—the Pint being divided into sixteen ounces, the Ounce into eight drachms. A middling size Teaspoon will contain about a Drachm ;—four such Teaspoons are equal to a middling size Tablespoon, or half an Ounce ;—four Tablespoons to a common sized Wineglass. The specific gravities of the various substances, being so extremely different, we cannot offer any auxiliary standards * for the We1cuts, which we earnestly re- commend the Cook to employ, if she wishes to gain cre- dit for accuracy and uniformity in her business: these she will find it necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachm Avoirdupois, which is equal to nearly seven grains Troy. | Guass Measures, (divided into Tea, and Table- spoons,) containing from Half an Ounce—to Half a Pint, —may be had at Price’s, near Exeter Change, Strand; where also may be had,—-the pousLe- HEADED PEPPER AND SPICE-BOXES, with caps over the gratings. ‘The superiority of these, by preserving the contents from the action of the air, must be sufh- ciently obvious to every one: the fine aromatic flavour of Pepper is soon lost, from the bottles tt ts usually kept in not * A jarge tablespoonful of Flour weighs about half an Ounce. 84 TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. being well stopped. Peppers are seldom ground or pounded sufficiently fine. (See N. B. to 369.) ! N. B. The Troven Nutmec Graters, made by Brooks, Ironmonger in Piccadilly (near Bond Street), are by far the best we have seen, ee for those who wish to grate fine, and fast. RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER I. BOILING. Turs most simple of Culinary processes is not often performed in perfection,—it does not require quite so much nicety and attendance, as Roasting,—to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the slower the better) all the while, — to know how long is required for doing the joint, &c., and to take it up, at the critical moment when it is done enough,— comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which few persons are capable. The Cook must take especial care that the water really boils all the while she is Cooking, or she will we deceived in the tume ; and make up a suflicient fire (a frugal Cook willmanage with much less fire for Boiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, without much mending or stirring. When the Pot is coming to a boil, there will always, from the cleanest Meat and clearest Water, rise a Scum to the top of it: proceeding partly from the foulness of the meat, and partly from the Water,—this must be carefully taken off as soon as it rises. On this, depends the good appearance of all boiled things. When you have scummed well, put in some cold water, which will throw up the rest of the scum. The oftener it is scummed, and the cleaner the top of the Water is kept, the cleaner will be the Meat. ¥ 86 BOILING. If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the Meat*; which, instead of looking delicately white and nice,—will have that coarse and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the Butcher and Poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the Cook in not scumming her pot. Many put in Milk, to make what they boil look white; but this does more harm than good :—others wrap it up in a cloth;—but these are needless pre- cautions, if the scum be attentively removed, Meat will have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled up. This may give rather more trouble — but Those who wish to excel in their Art must only consider how the processes of it can be most perfectly performed ;--a Cook who has a proper pride and pleasure in her business, will make this her maxim on all occasions. Put your Meat into cold+ water,—in the proportion of about a quart of Water to a pound of Meat:— it should he covered with water during the whole of the process of Boiling—but not drowned in it—the less water, provided the meat be covered with it,—the more Savoury will be the Meat, and the better will be the Broth. - The Water should be heated gradually—according to the thickness, &c. of the article boiled—for instance, a Leg of Mutton of 10 pounds weight, (No. 1.), should be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradually make the water hot, without causing it to bor for about forty minutes—if the water boils much sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up as if it was scorched—by keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling, its fibres are dilated, and it yields.a * Tf, unfortunately, this should happen, the Cook must carefully take it off when ‘she dishes up, either with a clean Sponge or a Paste-brush. + Cooks, however, as well as Doctors, disagree; for some say, that “ all” sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the water boils.” I prefer the above method, for thereason given—gentle stewing renders Meat, &c, tender, and still leaves it sapid and nutritive. F BOILING. 87 quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it rises. ** 104, If a vessel containing water be placed over a steady Fire, the Water will grow continually hotter till it reaches the limit of boiling, after which the regular ac- cessions of heat, are wholly spent in converting it into Steam—the Water remains at the same pitch of tem- perature, however fiercely it boils. The only differ- -enceis, that with a strong fire it sooner comes to boil, and more quickly boils away, and is converted into Steam.” — Buchanan on the Economy of Fuel, 1810. The Editor placed a Thermometer in water in that state which Cooks call gentle simmering,—the heat was 212°—i.e. the same degree as the strongest boiling. Two Murron Cuors were covered with cold water, —and one boiled a gallop—and the other simmered gently for three quarters of an hour—the Flavour of the Chop which was simmered was decidedly superior to that which was boiled—the Liquor which boiled fast, was in like proportion more savoury, and, when cold, had much more fat on its surface: — this ex- plains why quick boiling renders meat hard, &c.—be- cause its juices are extracted in a greater degree. Reckon THE Time from its first coming to a bott. The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we _ think rather too little;—the slower it boils, the ten- derer,—the plumper,— and whiter it will be. For those who choose their Food thoroughly cooked —which all will who have any regard for their Stomachs —TWENTY MINUTES TO A Pounp will not be found. too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire;— allowing more or less time, according to the thickness of the Joint, and the coldness of the Weather,— always remembering, the s/ower it boils the better. Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art; and Cooks seem to suppose, they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, and set it over the fire for 88 BOILING. a certain time,— making no allowance, whether it simmers without a bubble, or boils a gallop. Fresh-killed Meat will take much longer time boiling than that which has been kept till it is what the | butchers call ripe,—and longer in cold than in warm weather ;—if it be frozen it must be thawed before boiling as before roasting ;—-2f 2t be fresh killed it will be tough and hard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently.—In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into a place of which the tempe- rature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermometer. | The Size of the Bo1tine Pors should be adapted to what they are to contain :—-the larger the Saucepan— © the more room it takes up on the fire, and a larger quantity of Water requires a proportionate increase of Fire to boil it. In Small Families, we recommend BLOCK TIN saucepans, &c. as lightest, and safest ;—if proper care is taken of them, and they are well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest;—the purchase ofa new Tin saucepan being little more than the ex- - - pense of tinning a Copper one. ‘Take care that raz Covers of your boiling pots fit close, not only to prevent unnecessary evaporation of the water, but that the smoke may not insinuate itself under the edge of the lid, and give the meat a bad taste. If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavour. Breer and Murrow a little under-done (especially very large joints, which will make the better Hash or Broil), is not a great fault—by some people it is pre- ferred ;—but Lamb,—Pork,—and Veal, are uneatable if not thoroughly boiled—but do not over-do them. A Trivert, or Fish drainer put on the bottom of the boiling Pot, raising the contents about an inch and a BOILING. 89 half from the bottom, will prevent that side of the meat which comes next the bottom from being done too much,— and the lower part of the meat will be as delicately done as the other part; and this will enable you to take out the contents of the Pot without sticking a fork, &c. into it. Ifyou have not a trivet, use four Skewers, or a Soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards. Take care of the Liguor you have boiled Poultry or Meat in; in Five Minutes you may make it into ExcEL~ LENT Soup, see Obs. to (No. 555.) and (No. 229.) The coop Housewire never boils a Joint without converting the Broth into some sort of Sour, (Read No. 5 and chapter 7, and see page 66).—If the Liquor be too salt, only use half the quantity, and the rest water ;— wash Salted meat well with cold water be- fore you put it into the boiler. An Estimation of the Loss or WE1GuT which takes place in Cooking Animal Food.—From Mr. Truuocn’s Pin- losophical Magazine. ‘ “Tr is well known that, in whatever way the flesh of animals is prepared for food, a considerable diminution | takes place in its weight. We do not recollect, how- ever, to have seen any where a statement of the loss _ which meat sustains in the various culinary processes, although it is pretty obvious that a series of experi- ments on this subject would not be without their use in domestic economy. “We shall here give the result ofa series of experi- ments which were actually made ori this subject ina public establishment; premising that, as they were not undertaken from mere curiosity, but, on the contrary, to serve a purpose of practical utility, absolute accu- racy was not attended to. Considering, however, the large quantities of provisions which were actually ex- amined, it is presumed that the results may be safely depended upon for any practical purpose. It would 90 BOILING. . no doubt have been desirable to have known not only the whole diminution of weight, but also the parts which were separated from the meat in the form of aqueous > vapour, jelly, fat, &c., but the determination of: these did not fall’ within the scope of the inquiry. Cbs. OBS. 28 pieces of beef weighing «++++++-280. 0 Lost in boilingseesceeeeseeeees 73 14 “ Hence the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this case about 26$lbs. in 100|bs. : ibs. ozs. 19 pieces of beef weighing. «++++++-190 0 Lost in roasting. ccccccsvcesesos Gl . 2 _ «The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be 32 per cent. lbs. ozs 9 pieces of beef weighing-+++e+++ 90 0 ~ Lost in baking.ssecseseeesees 27 0 ** Weight lost by beef in baking, 30 per cent. tbs. O%Se 27 legs of mutton eolehine eoceeee 260 0 Lost in boiling, and by havine 62 4 the shank bone taken off - “‘ The shank-bones were estimated at 4 ounces each; therefore the loss by boil- > 55 oe ing was ‘‘ The loss of weight in legs of mutton, in pong 4 is 214 per cent. | tbs. 0&8. 35 shoulders of mutton weighinge«++350 0 Lost in roasting ¢++++seeseeess 109 10 _ “The loss of weight in shoulders of mutton, by roasting, is about 311 per cent. ths. O%S. 16 loins of mutton weighing+++++++-141 0 Lost in roasting eeeeesseeeeees 49 14 ‘Hence loins of mutton lose, by roasting, about 354 per cent. BOILING. 91 lbs. 02S» 10 necks of mutton weighing,-+++--100 0 Lost in roasting «eeessceeeeee+, 32 6 _ “The loss of necks of mutton, by roasting, is about 322 per cent. Sec imea ** We shall only draw two practical inferences from the foregoing statement.—Ilst. In respect of economy, itis more profitable to boil meat than to roast it. 2dly; Whether we roast or boil meat, it loses, by being cooked, from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight.” : The loss in Roastine arises from the melting out of the Fat, and evaporating the water; but the nutri- tious matters remain condensed in the cooked solid. In Borxtine, the loss arises partly from the fat melted out, but chiefly from Gelatine and Osmazome being extracted and dissolved by the water in which the meat is boiled; there is, therefore, a real loss of nourishment unless the Broth be used ;—when this mode of cooking becomes the most economical. The Sauces usually sent to Table with Boitep Meat, &c. These are to be sent up in Boats, and never poured over the Meat, &c.* Gravy for boiled Meateccscccensescveecs( NOs 327.) Parsley and Buttersssecosscccccccvesece( NO 261.) Mock DittOcacccccenesecccvsvveseccsses( NO. 262.) CHeErvil cccccvenccescccccesscpecccsecses( NO. 264.) WADE odevevivettveuccavedcsvasecsaves( NOs 274.) OY SLGLcis a. 65 sinc ner boa oteeendvaves oes e( NO’ 278.) Liver and Parsley .cccescescccsseveseeves( NOs 287.) RCISIY cinsies cc Vupkidctleiel ce pweSackdce eee e(NOr 280.) OWI Nas bce cav is ph ec sense ewes cisesbens+(.NOs 206, &c.) BHANOL Cwtik sche oes dees Suvtoues ces esiae( NOs 205. Wow WOW cacececcencvccsacctcvsecscesye( NO- 328.) CUT Yeu ccscscesvccessscessvevecrssacnc( NOs 348.) * The diminution of weight, by Boiling and Roasting, is not all Joss—the Fat SKIMMINGs and the DRIPPINGS nicely clarified, will well supply the place Ont bo ye for Frying. See (No. 83.) and the Receipt for Cuzar Sour, Or 229. 1 92 BAKING. BAKING. Tue following Observations were given to us by a respectable Baker. Baxine is one of the cheapest, and most convenient ways of dressing a Dinner in small families; and I may say that THE Oven is often the only Kitchen a poor man — has, if he wishes to enjoy a joint of Meat at home with his family. I dont mean to deny the superior excellence of Roast- ing to Baking; but.some joints, when Baked, so nearly approach to the same when Roasted, that I have known them to be carried to the Table, and eaten as such with great satisfaction. Lees, and Loins of Porx ;—Lzes of Murvon,-— Fitutets of Veat;—and many other joints, will Bake to great advantage if the meat be good; I mean well fed, rather inclined to be fat;—if the meat be poor, no Baker can give satisfaction. When baking a joint of poor meat, before it has been half baked, I have seen it Start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely to be believed. Besides those Joints above mentioned, I shall enu- © merate a few Baked dishes, which I can particularly recommend. _A Pia, when sent to the Baker prepared for Baking, should have its Ears and- Tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on, and a bit of Butter tied up ina piece of linén to baste the back with, otherwise it will be apt to blister: with a proper share of attention from the Baker, I consider this way equal to’a roasted one. A Goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care to have it on a stand, and when half done, to turn the other side upwards. ’A Duck the same. A Buttock of Brrr the following way is Sori: aa fine. After it has been in salt about a week, to be well BAKING. 93 washed and put into a brown earthen pan, with a pint of water; cover the pan tight over with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap Paper—never cover any thing that is to be baked with Brown paper, the pitch and tar that is in brown paper will give the meat a smoky had taste—give it four or five hours in a mo- derate heated oven. 3 A Ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and wiped, a crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in a moderate heated oven; cuts fuller of gravy, and ofa finer flavour than a boiled one. I have been in the habit of baking small Cop-risu,— Happock,—and MackeEret, with a dust of flour, and some hits of butter put on them. Erxs, when large and stuffed. HErrincs and Sprarts, in a brown pan, with vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with pa- per. All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families. ; The time each of the above articles should take, depends much upon the state of the Oven, and | do consider the Baker a sufficient judge ;-—if they are sent to him in time, he must be very neglectful, if they are not ready at the time they are ordered. \ RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. | \ CHAPTER II. ROASTING. — Iw all studies, it is the best practice, to begin with the -plainest and easiest parts; and so on, by degrees, to such as are more difficult: we, therefore, treated of plain Boiling, and we now proceed to Roasting :—we shall then gradually unravel, to our Culinary students, the Art, (and mystery, until developed in this work) of making, with the least trouble and expense, the most highly finished Made-dishes. Let the young Cook never forget, that CLEanri- NESs is the chief Cardinal Virtue of the Kitchen ;— the first preparation for Roasting is to take care that the Spit be properly cleaned with sand and water : nothing else.—When it has been well scoured with this, dry it with a clean cloth. Jf Spits are wiped clean, as soon as the meat 2s drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little cleaning will be required. The less the Spit is passed through the meat, the better’, and before you spit it, joint it properly—especially necks and loins—that the Carver may separate them easily and neatly, and take especial care it be evenly balanced on the spit, that its motion may be regular, and the fire operate equally on each part of it ;— therefore, be provided with Balancing Skewers, and Cookholds, and see it is properly Jointed. * SMALL families have not always the convenience of roasting with a Spit, —a remark upon ROASTING BY A STRING is necessary.—Let the Cook, be- Jore she puts her meat down to the fire, pass a strong skewer through each end of the joint: by this means, when it is about half done, she can with ease turn the bottom upwards; the gravy will then flow to the part which has been uppermost, and the whole joint be deliciously gravy-full. A BOTTLE-JACK, as it is termed by the furnishing ironmongers, is a valu- able instrument for roasting. A DuTcH Ov EN, is another very convenient utensil, for roasting light joints, or warming them up. ROASTING. 95 Roastine should be done in the open air, to venti- late the meat from its own fumes, and by the radiant heat, of a clear glowing Fire,—otherwise it is in fact baked—the Machines the Economical Grate-makers call ROASTERS, are in plain English, Ovens. Count Rumford was certainly an exact economist of Fuel, when he contrived these things, — and those Phi- losophers who try all questions “‘ According to Cocker” may vote for Baked Victuals;—but the rational Epi- cure, who has been accustomed to enjoy Brrr well RoasTED, will soon be convinced, that the Poet who wrote our national Ballad at the end of this Chapter, was not inspired by Sir Benjamin Thompson’s Cookery. All your attention in Roasting, will be thrown away, if you do not take care that your Meat, especially Beef, (which can seldom be bought ready for the spit except on a Saturday,) has been kept long enough to be Tender. See ** ApvicE TO Cooxs,’—and Obs. to (No. 68.) Make up the Fire in time: let it be proportioned to the dinner to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer, at each end, than the thing to be roasted —or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice and brown. A Cook must be as particular to proportion her Fire* to the business she has to do, as a Chemist—the degree of Heat most desirable for dressing the different sorts of food ought to be attended to with the utmost precision. * * Les viandes en général ne doivent pas étre saisies par un feu vif si elles ont un certain volume, parce que l’exteérieur serait rissolé et brilé avant que Vintérieur fit cuit: d’un autre cdété il ne faut pas exposer trop long. temps un réotia une chaleur modérée, parce que cette chaleur, qui suffit pour évaporer tous les principes liquides, et coaguler l’albumineé rapprocherait les fibres musculaires et les dessécherait: i] faut-observer encore que la saveur des viandes roties ou grillées dépend ou du gott propre a la viande, ou d’une décomposition partielle de la peau, des muscles, et de la graisse. Il se forme par l’action seule du feu des substances sapides, qui n’existaient pas dans la viande crue. * Les substances sont I’ acide prussique, UV acide zoonique, un peu @’ huile empyreumatigue; il s’y développe aussidu sel marin. Tous ces corps sont stimulans, légérement Acres; ils irritent les houppes nerveuses de notre palais, appellent le suc salivaire, et réveillent notre appetit.” CovuRs GASTRONOMIQUES.—Paris, 1819, pe 292, a ROASTING. The Fire, that is but just sufficient to receive the noble Sirloin, (No. 19.) will parch up a lighter joint. From half an Hour, to an Hour, before you begin to Roast, prepare the Fire,—by putting a few coals on, which will be sufficiently lighted by the time you wish to make use of your fire;—between the bars, and on the top, put small or large Coals, according to the bulk of the Joint, and the time the fire is required to be strong ;—after which, throw the Cinders (wetted) at the back. Never put Meat down to a burnt up fire, if you can possibly avoid it;—but should the fire become fierce,— place the Spit at a considerable distance, and allow a little more time. Preserve the rat”, by covering it with paper, for this purpose, called “ Kitchen Paper,” and tie it on with fine twine;—pins and skewers can by no means be allowed, they are so many taps, to let out the Gravy: _—besides, the paper often starts from them and catches fire, to the great injury. of the meat. If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should be little and brisk ;—when you have a large joint to roast, make up a sound, strong fire, equally good, in every part of the prate—or your meat cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform colour which constitutes the beauty of good roasting. Give the Fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down :—examine it from time to time, while the spit is going round ;—keep it clear at the bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in the front, which will spoil the look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from roasting evenly. When the joint to be roasted, is thicker at one end than the other, place the spit slanting, with the thick- est part nearest the fire. Do not put Meat too near the fire at first; — the * If there is more Fat than you think wil! be eaten with the lean—trim it off, it will make an excellent PUDDING. (No. 551, or 554.) Or clarify it. (No. 83. 5 ROASTING. Q7 larger the joint, the farther it must be kept from the Fire: —if once it gets scorched, the outside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable empyreumatic taste ; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it, the meat will appear done, before it is little more than half done, besides losing the pale brown colour, which it is the Beauty of Roasted meat to have. From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which meat is put from the grate, when first put down :—it is extremely difficult to offer any thing like an acturate general rule for this,—it depends so much upon the size of the fire, and of that of the thing to be roasted. Till some Culinary Philosopher shall invent a Ther- mometer to ascertain the heat of the Fire,—and a gra- duated Spit-Rack to regulate the distance from it,—the process of Roastine is attended by so many ever- varying circumstances, that it must remain among those which can only be performed well,—by frequent practice and attentive observation. “« Mr. Watt, for his Steam Engines where Wood fuel is employed, allows three times the weight of Wood, that he does of Newcastle Coals—and a bushel of Newcastle Coals, which weighs 3 of a Cwt. is reckoned to produce as much heat as a Cwt. of Scottish or Glasgow Coal.” —Bucuanan on Economy of Fuel. 1810. p. 82. If you wish your Jacx to go well, keep it as clean as possible, oil it, and then wipe it; if the oil is not wiped off again, it will gather dust; to prevent this, as soon as you have done roasting, cover it up.—Never leave the winders on whilst the Jack is going round, unless you do it, as Swift says, ‘ that it may fly off, and knock those troublesome servants on the head who will be crowding round your Kitchen fire.” Be very careful to place the Drippine-Pan at such a distance from the fire, as just to catch the drippings : —if it is too near, the ashes will fall into it, and spoil the Drippings” (which we shall hereafter show, will ' * This the Good Housewife will take up occasionally, and pass throngha F 98 ROASTING. occasionally be found an excellent substitute for But: ter or Lard;— to clarify Drippings, see No. 83, and Pease and Dripping Soup, No. 229,) (savoury and salu- bricus for only a PENNY PER Quart). Ifitis too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose your drippings, but the Meat will be blackened, and spoiled by the foetid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders. The time Meat will take Roasting, will vary accdvdine to the time it has been kept, and the temperature of the weather :—the same weight* will be twenty minutes, or half an hour longer in Cold Weather+, than it will be in warm—and if fresh killed, than if it has been kept till it is tender. Cooks seldom calculate according to the variation of temperature, &c. } A good Msatr Screen, is a great saver of Coals. It should be on wheels, have a flat top, and not be less than about three feet and a half wide, and with shelves in it, about one foot deep—it will then answer all the purposes of a large Dutch oven,—Plate Warmer,— Hot Hearth, &c. Some are made with a Door behind— this is convenient—but the great heat they are exposed to soon shrinks the materials, and the currents of air through the cracks. cannot be prevented—so they are better without the Door. We saw one at Mr. Lloyd’s, furnishing Ironmonger, near Norfolk Street, Strand, which had on the top of it—a very convenient Hot Closet—which is a great acquisition in Kitchens, where the Dinner waits after it is dressed. Every body knows the advantage of Slow ee Stow Roas tine is equally important. sieve into a stone pan :—by leaving it all in the Dripping-pan, until the Meat is taken up, it not only becomes very strong, but, when the meat is’rich and yields much of it, it is apt to be spilt in Basting. —TO CLARIFY DRIPPINGS, see No. 83. * Insist upon the Butcher fixing a'Tick Er of the Weight. toeach Joint. + ir THE MEAT Is FROZEN, the usual practice is to put it into Cold. Water till it is thawed, then dry and roast it as usual;—but we recommend you to bring it iuto the kitchen the night before, or early in the morning of the day you want to reast it, and the warm air will thaw it much better. ROASTING. 99 It is difficult to give any specific Rute For Time; —but if your Fire is made as before directed,—your Meat Skreen sufficiently large to guard what your are dressing from currents of Air,—and the meat is not FROsSTED,—you cannot do better, than follow the old general rule of allowing rather more than a Quarter of an hour to the Pound ;—a little more or less, according to the temperature of the weather,—and in proportion as the piece is thick or thin,—the strength of the Fire, —the nearness of the Meat to it, — and the frequency with which you baste it; the more it is basted, the less time it will take, as it keeps the Meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the Fire acts with more force upon it. Reckon the Time, not to the hour when Dinner is or- dered—but to the moment the Roasts will be wanted — supposing there are a dozen people to sip Soup, and eat Fish first: you may allow them ten or fifteen mi- nutes for the former, and about as long for the latter; more or less, according to the temptations the ‘* Bon Gout” of these preceding courses has to attract their attention. When the Joint is half done,—remove the Spit and Drippine-Pan back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and bright for the Browning :— when the steam from the Meat draws towards the fire*, it is a sign of its beg done enongh;—but you will be the best judge of that, from the time it has been down, the strength of the Fire you have used, and the dis- tance your Spit has been from it. Half an hour before your Meat 1s done, make some Gravy, (see Receipt, No. 326,) and just before you take itup, put it nearer the fire ro Brown it.—If you wish to FROTH it,—baste it, and dredge it with flour carefully; you cannot do this delicately mice, without a * When the Steam begins to arise, it is a proof that the whoie joint is tho- roughly saturated with heat; any unnecessary evaporation, is a waste of the best nourishment of the meat. F2 100 ROASTING. wery good light ;—the common fault seems to be using too much Flour ;—the Meat should have a fine light var- nish of Froth,—not the appearance of being covered with a paste ;—those who are particular about the Froth, use Butter instead of Dripping; (see Receipt to Roast a Turkey, No. 57) “ And send up what you Roast, with relish-giving Froth,” says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appear- ance to the Eye, that the Palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight. A Good Cook, is as anxiously attentive to the ap- pearance and Colour of her Roasts, as a Court Beauty is to her Complexion at a Birthday Ball. : Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally considered one of the most easy and simple processes of Cookery,—it requires more unremitting attention to perform it perfectly well, than it does to make most Made-dishes. That Made-dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves to be reckoned among the Culinary Vulgar - Errors ;—in Plain Roasting and Boiling, it is not easy to repair a mistake once made ;-—and all the discretion and attention of a steady careful Cook, must be unre- mittingly upon the alert*. * A celebrated French writer has given us the following observations on Roasting :— ‘The Art of Roasting victuals to the precise degree, is one of the most difficult in this world, and you may find half athousand good Cooks sooner than one perfect Roaster: (See ‘‘ Almanach des Gourmands,” vol. i. p. 37), In the mansions of the opulent they have, besides the Master Kitchener,—a Roaster, (perfectly independent of the former) whois exclu- sively devoted to the Spit. “ All erudite Gourmands know that these two important functions cannot be performed by one artist; it is quite impossible, at the same time, to snper- intend the operations of the Spit, and the Stewpan.”—Turther on, the same author observes: “ No certain rules can be given for Roasting, the perfection of it depending on many circumstances which are continually changing ; the age, and size, (especially the thickness) of the pieces, the quality of the coals, the temperature of the atmosphere, the currents of air in the kitchen, the more or less attention of the roaster; and, lastly, the time of serving.—Sup- posing the Dinner ordered to be on table at a certain time, if the Fish and Soup are much liked, and detained longer than the roaster has calculated ; or, on the contrary, if they are despatched sooner than is expected, the roasts will in \ ROASTING. 101 A diligent attention to time,—the distance of the Meat from,—and judicious management of the Fire, and frequent Bastings*,— are all the general rules we can prescribe,—we shall deliver particular rules for parti- cular things, as the several articles occur, and do our utmost endeavours to instruct our reader as completely as words can describe the process, and teach *¢ The management of common things so well, *¢ That what was thought the meanest shall excel : «* That Cook’s to British palates most complete, «€ Whose sav’ry skill gives zest to common meat: “ For what are your soups,—your ragouts,—and your sauce, ** Compared to the fareof OLD ENGLAND, * And OLD ENGLISH ROAST BEEF!” ** Taxe Notice, that the Time given in the fol- lowing Receipts,—zs calculated for those, who like Meat thoroughly Roasted. (See N. B. preceding No. 19.) Some good Housewives order very large joints to be rather under-done—as they then make a better Hash or Broil. Z + one case be burnt. up, in the other not done enough—two misfortunes equally to be deplored. ‘The first, however, is without a remedy; jive minutes on the Spit,more or less, decides the goodness of this mode of Cookery ;—it is almost impossible to seize the precise instant when it ought to be eaten; which Epicures in roasts express, by saying, ‘ It is done toa turn.’ So that there is no exaggeration in saying, the perfect Roaster, is even more rare, than the professed Cook. ** In small families, where the Cook—is also the Roaster,—it is almost im- possible the roasts should be well done ;—the Spit claims exclusive attention, and is an imperious Mistress, who demands the entire devotion of her slave. But how can this be? When the Cook, is obliged at the same time, to attend her Fish and Soup kettles, and watch her Stewpans and all their accompani- ments ;—it is morally and physically impossible, if she gives that delicate and constant attention to the Roasts, which is indispensably requisite, the rest of the Dinner must often be spoilt; and most Cooks would rather lose their cha- racter as a Roaster, than neglect the made-dishes and ‘ entremets,’ &c. where they think they can display their Culinary Science,—than sacrifice these to the Roasts, the perfection of which, will only prove their steady Vigilance and Patience.” * Our Ancestors were very particular in their BasTINGS AND DREDGINGS, as will be seen by the following quotation from “‘ Mays Accomplished Cook.” London, 1665, p. 136.—‘* The rarest ways of dressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh or fowl, by sea or land, and divers ways of bread- ing or dredging meats to prevent the gravy from too much evaporating.” DREDGINGS. 1. Flour mixed with grated bread. 2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and mixed with grated bread. 102 ROASTING. To make GRAVY for Roasts, see (No. 326.) N.B. ROASTS, must not be put on,—till the Soup and Fish are taken off the pais 3. Lemon peel dried and pounded, or orange peel mixed with flour. 4. Sugar finely powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and Gone; or grated bread, 5. Fennel seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, and mixed with grated bread or flour. 6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour mixed with beaten nutmeg, ginger, pepper, sugar, and yolks of eggs. sw 7. Sugar, bread, and salt mixed. BAsTINGs. 1. Fresh butter. 2. Clarified suet. 3.. Minced sweet herbs, butter. and lapels especially for mutton and lamb. 4, Water and sait. 5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig, 6. Yolks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges, RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER III. - FRYING. FRYING is often a convenient mode of Cookery,—it may be performed by a fire which will not do for Roast- ing or Broiling;—and by the introduction of the Pan between the Meat and the Fire, things get more equally dressed. | . The Dutcu Oven or Bonnet is another very con- venient utensil for small things, and a very useful sub- stitute for the Jack,—the Gridiron,—or Fryingpan. A Fryinepawn should be about four.inches deep, with a perfectly flat and thick bottom, 12 inches long, and 9 broad—with perpendicular sides, and must be. half filled with Fat—Goop Fryine is in fact — Boiling in Fat. To make sure that the Panis quite clean, rub a little Fat over it—and then make it warm and wipe it out with a clean cloth. Be very particular in Frying, never to use any Oil,— _ Butter,-—Lard,—or Drippings,—but what is quite clean, fresh, and free from salt. Any thing dirty spoils the look ;—any thing bad tasted or stale spoils the fla- vour ;—and salt prevents its Browning. Fine Olive Oil, is the most delicate for frying ;—but to have the best oil is very expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it. _ For general purposes, and especially for Fisu, clean fresh Lard, is not near so expensive as oil or clarified Butter, and does almost as well, except for Cutlets and Collops.— Butter often burns before you arg aware of it, and what you fry will get a dark and dirty ap- _ pearance. 104 FRYING. Cooks in large kitchens, where there is a great deal of frying, commonly use Mutton or Beef Suet, clarified, (see No. 84); (if from the kidney, all the better). Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any thing,—if not clean, it may be easily clarified ; see (No. 83). Whatever Fat you use—after you have done frying, let it remain in the Pan for a few mi- nutes, and then pour it through a sieve into aclean ba- sin—?t will do three or four times as well as it did at first, z. e. if it has not burned—but Mem.—the Fat you have fried Fish in must not be used for any other purpose. To know when the Fat is of a proper heat, accord- ing to what you are to fry, is the great secret in frying. To fry Fiso,—ParsLey,—PoratTogs, or any thing that is watery, your Fire must. be very clear, and the Fat quite hot, which you may be pretty sure of, when it has done hissing, and is still.—We cannot insist too strong- ly on this point :—2f the Fat ts not very hot, you cannot fry Fish ether to a good colour, or firm and crisp. — | To be quite certain,—throw a little bit of Bread into the pan ; if it fries crisp, the Fat is ready: if it burns the bread, it is too hot. ce “ths The Fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, other- wise the fat is so long before it becomes ready, and de- mands such attendance ‘to prevent the accident of its catching fire*, the patience of cooks is exhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance, or impatience, throw in what they are going to fry, before the fat is half hot enough.—Whatever is so fried, will be pale and sod- den, and offend the Palate and Stomach, not less than the Eye. Have a good light to Fry by,—that you may see when you have got the right colour:—a Lump fixed on a * If this.yj,rtunately happens, be not in the least alarmed,—but immedi- ately wet a basket or Asnes and iurow th o> down the Chimney, and wet a Blanket, and hold it elose ali round the Fire-plaée, — a8 soon as the earrent of wind is stopped,—the Fire will be extinguished: with a CHARCOAL STOVE there is no danger, as the diameter of the Pan exceeds that of the fire. FRYING. 105 stem with a loaded foot, which has an arm that will lengthen.out, and slide up and down like a reading candlestick, is @ most useful appendage to Kitchen Fire- places, which are very seldom light enough for the nicer operations of Cookery. After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the Fat from what you have Sried,—especially from those things that are full dressed in Bread-crumbs*, &c.—your Cooking will do you no credit. The Dryness of Fish depends much upon its having been fried in fat of a due degree of heat, they are then crisp and dry in a few minutes after they are taken out of the Pan—when they are not, lay them on a soft cloth before the fire, turning them occasionally, till they are ; —this will sometimes take 15 minutes : — therefore al- ways fry Fish as long as this before you want them— for fear you may find this necessary. To Fry FisH, see the Receipt to fry Soles, (No. 145.) which is the only circumstantial account of the process that has yet been printed.—If the Cook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become an ac- i pega Frier. -FryinG, though one of the most common of culi- nary operations,—is one that is ease commonly. per- formed perfectly well. * When you want a great many BREAD-CRUMBs, divide your Loaf into ‘three equal parts—take the middle or crumb piece—the top and bottom will do for table—in the usual way of cutting, the crust is wasted. OATMEAL is avery satisfactory, and an extremely economical Substitute for Bread Crumbs. See (No. 145.) F5 RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER IV. _ BROILING. CLEANLINESS is extremely essential in “this mode of cookery. Keep your Gridiron quite clean between. the bars, and bright on the top;—-when it is hot,—wipe it well with a linen cloth; just before you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton suet, to. prevent. the Meat from being marked by the sridiron. Take care to prepare your Fire in time, so thatit - may burn quite clear; a brisk and clear fire ts indaspens- able ;—or you cannot give your meat that browning which constitutes the perfection of thismode of cookery, and gives a relish to food it cannot receive any other wa Be very attentive to watch the moment any cad is done ;—never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make smoke and spoil it. Let the bars of the Gridiron be-all hot through, but yet not burning hot upon the surface ;—this is the per- fect and fine condition of the Gridiron. As the Bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers. It is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the thing to be cooked be laid on them. , The Bars of Gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in a trough to catch the Gravy and keep the Fat from dropping into the fire and making a smoke, which will spoil the Broil. BROILING. 107 Upricut Gripirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire, without fear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough under them. N. B. Brorzs must be brought to table as Hot as possible: seta Dish to heat, when you put your Chops on the Gridiron — from whence to the Mouth their progress must be as quick as possible. When the Fire ts not clear —the business of the Grid- aron may be done by the Dutch Oven or Bonnet. ie ‘pe Ce ee x P 2 Rel RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER V.. VEGETABLES, Tur Marxetine Tasies at the end of this Work Show the Seasons of Vegetables, and point out the time when they are Best and CHeaPeEsrt. There ts nothing in which the difference between an Elegant and an Ordinary table ts more seen, than in the dressing of Vegetubles, more especially of Greens :—they may be equally as fine at first, at one place as at another ;—but their look and taste are afterwards very different, entirely from the careless way in which they have been cooked. They are an greatest Perfection, when in greatest Plenty, 2,e. when in full season. By Season,—I do not mean those early days, that luxury in the buyers, and avarice in the sellers about London, force the various vegetables : but that time of the year in which by nature and common culture, and the mere operation of the Sun and Climate, they are in most plenty and perfection. Potatoes and Pease—are seldom worth eating before Midsummer.—Un rire VEGETABLES, are as insipid and unwholesome as Unripe Fruits. As to the quality of Vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the largest, or the smallest ;—they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavour, just before they are quite full grown: Freshness is their chief value and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an Animal alive,—as of boiling a Vegetable after it is dead. _ The Eye easily discovers if they have been kept too ~ long ;—they soon lose their Beauty in all respects. Roots, Greens, Salads, &c., and the various. pro- ductions of the Garden, when first gathered, are VEGETABLES. 109 plump and firm, and have a fragrant freshness. no art can give them again, when they have lost it by long keeping ; — though it will refresh them a little to put them into cold spring water for some time before they are dressed. To boil them in soft water will preserve the colour best of such as are Green; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of Carbonate of Potash. Takecare towash andcleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and insects: — this requires great attention :—pick off all the outside leaves, trim them nicely, and 2f not quite Fresh gathered and have become flaccid—it is absolutely necessary to restore their crispness before cooking them, or they will be tough and unpleasant—lay them ’ in a pan of clean water, with a handfal of salt in it, for an hour before you dress them. ** Most Vegetables being more or less succulent, their full proportion of fluids is necessary for their retaining that state of crispness and plumpness which they have when growing.—On being cut or gathered, the exhala- tion from their surface continues, while, from the open vessels of the cut surface, there is often great exudation or evaporation, and thus their natural moisture is di- minished, the tender leaves become flaccid, and: the thicker masses or roots lose their plumpness. —This is not only less pleasant to the Eye, but is a real i injury to the nutritious powers of the vegetable: for in this flaccid and shrivelled state its fibres are less easily di- vided in chewing, and the water which exists in vege- table substances, in the form of their respective natu- ral juices, is directly nutritious. The first care in the preservation of succulent vegetables, therefore, is to prevent them from losing their natural moisture.’ =8 up. to Edinb. Encyclop. vol. iv. p. 335. They should always be boiled in a saucepan, by ‘themselves, and have plenty of water : if Meatis boiled. ae with them in the same pot, they will op the look at taste of each other. si 110 VEGETABLES. If you wish to have Vegetables delicately clean, put on your Pot, make it boil, put a little salt in it-and ‘skim it perfectly clean before you put in the Greens, &c.—which should not be put in till the water boils briskly: the quicker they boil, the greener they will be ;— when the Vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will losetheir colour and goodness. Drain the water from them tho- ‘roughly before you send them to table. This branch of Cookery, requires the most i sacs at- ‘tention. If Vegetables are a minute or two too long over the Fire,—they lose all their Beauty and Flavour. If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are tremendously Indigestible, and much more troublesome during their residence in the Stomach, than under-done Meats*. To preserve, or give colour in’ Cookery, many good . dishes are spoiled; but the rational Epicure; who makes nourishment the main end of eating, will be content to sacrifice the shadow, to enjoy the substance. Vide } Obs. to (No. 322.) | - Once for all, take care your vegetables are fresh ;— for as the Fishmonger often suffers for the sins of the Cook, so the Cook often gets undeservedly blamed in- stead of the Green-grocer : _ Vegetables in this metropolis, are often kept'so long, that no art can make them either look or eat well. ** Suceulent Vegetables are best preserved in a cool shady and damp place. Potatoes,—Turnips,—Carrots, and similar Roots intended to be stored up, should never be cleaned from the earth adhering to them— #° CAULIFLOWERS and other Vegetables are often boiled only crisp, to pre- ‘serve their Beauty. For'the look alone they had better not be boiled at all, and . almost as well for the use, as iu this crude state they are scarcely digestible by _ the strongest stomach. On the other hand, when over boiled, they become apid, and in a state similar to decay, in which they afford no sweet purifying » Juices to the body, but load it with a mass of mere feculent matter, /— Do- ‘mestic Management, 12mo. 1813, p. 69. VEGETABLES. 111 and must be protected from the action of the air, and frost, by laying them in heaps, burying them in sand or earth, &c. or covering them with straw or mats. | ‘« The action of Frost destroys the life of the Vege- table, and it speedily rots.” —Sup. to Edinb. Encyclopedia, vol. iv. p. 335. N.B. When Greens, &c. are quite fresh gathered, they will not require so much boiling, by at least a third of the time they take, when they have been gathered the usual time those are that are brought to public markets. Mr. Apprrt has published his simple and unex- pensive process of preserving fresh, both animal, and vegetable foods, from the season of produce, through the season of scarcity, in their full flavour and excellence, merely by applying heat in a due degree to the several - Substances, after having deprived them of all contact with the external air. : There is not a Mistress of a Family who is rich enough to lay by a stock of these Articles, and not too rich to despise Economy, who will not be benefitted by the perusal of Mr. Appert’s Book, 12mo. 1812, or pur- chase La Curmiz pu ‘Govt, 2 tom. Paris, 1819. RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER VI. FISH. Tue Marketine Tasues at the end of this Work show when each kind of Fish is Best and CuEaPEst. Tuis department of the business of the Kitchen re-_ quires considerable experience, and depends more upon practice than any other;—a very few moments, more or less, will thoroughly spoil Fish*; which, to be eaten in perfection,—must never be put on the Table, till the Soup is taken off, So many circumstances operate on this occasion, it. is almost impossible to write general rules. There are decidedly different opinions, whether Fish should be put into cold,—tepid,—or boiling water. * When the Cook has large dinners to prepare, and the time of serving un- certain, she will get more credit by FRIED, (see No. 145.) or stewed, (see No. 164.) than by BOILED Fish. Mr. Ude, page 238 of his Cookery—advises, ‘* If you are obliged to wait - after the Fish is done, do not let it remain in the water, but keep the water boiling—and put the fish over it, and cover it with a damp cloth—when the dinner is called for, dip the fish again in the water—and serve it up.” The only circumstantial instructions yet printed for Fry1ne Fisu, the Reader will find in (No. 145.): if this be carefully and nicely attended to, you will have delicious food, and let the Fish-Eater remember the Epitaph of the Musician at Marseilles— which being read according to the French Gamut and pronunciation—is La . —Sole—La—Mis—La. * FISH. 113 We believe for some of the fame the Dutch Cooks have acquired, they are a little indebted to their situa- tion, affording them a plentiful supply of Fresh Fish for little more than the trouble of catching it:—and_ that the superior excellence of the fish in Holland, is be- cause none are used, unless they are brought alive in- to the Kitchen, (Mackerel excepted, which die the mo- ment they are taken out of the water.) The Dutch are as nice about this, as Seneca says, the Romans* were ; who, complaining of the luxury of the times, says, ‘they are come to that daintiness, that they will not eat a Fish, unless upon the same day that it is taken; that it may taste of the sea, as they express it.” On the Dutch flat coast, the Fish are taken with nets;—on our rocky coast, they are mostly caught by bait and hook, which instantly kills them. — Fish are brought alive by land, to the Dutch markets, in water- casks with air-holes in the top.— Salmon, and other fish, are thus preserved in rivers, in a well-hole, in the fishing-boat. Fisu OF EVERY KIND ARE BEST some time before they begin to spawn—and are unfit for food for some time after they have spawned. The most convenient Utensil to boil Fish in, is a Tursot-Kerrie,—this should be 24 inches long, 22 wide, and 9 deep.—lIt is an excellent vessel to boil a Ham in, &c. &c. The good folks of this Metropolis are so often dis- appointed, by having Fish which have been kept too long,—that they are apt to run into the other extreme, * They had Salt Water preserves for feeding different kinds of Sea fish; those in the ponds of Lucullus, at his death, sold for 25,0004. sterling. The prolific power of Fish is wonderful :—the following calculations are from Petit, Bloch, and Leuwenhock. : Eggs A Salmon of 20 pounds weight contained..... eee 27 ,850 A middling sized Pike...eee ooecss eevecvecsesese 148,000 A Mackerel ..caccvcess SOOT HOO 8 YOURE Ie 546,081 Ai Codivinw isles veeids ss y ewan bivinia sie aieinieie nis wives 9,344,000 See Cours Gastronomiques, 18mo, 1806, p. 241. 114 FISH. and suppose that Fish will not dress well, unless it is --. absolutely alive. This is true of Lobsters, &c. (No. 176.) and may be of Fresh water fish, but een not of some Sea Fish. Several respectable Fishmongers ata waperlenedd Cooks have assured the Editor, that they are often in danger of losing their credit, by fish too fresh, and es- pecially Turbot and Cod, which, like Meat, require a certain time before they are in the best condition to be dressed :—-they recommend them to be put into Cold Water, Salted in proportion of about a quarter ofa pound of salt to a gallon of water,—Sea Water is best to boil Sea fish in,—and let them boil slowly till done; the sign of which is, that the skin of the Fish rises up, and the Eyes turn white. It is the business of the Fishmonger to clean them, &c. but the careful Cook will always wash them again. GarnisH, with slices of Lemon,—finely scraped Horseradish,—fried Oysters, (No. 183.)—Smelts, (No. 173.)—or Whitings, (No. 153.) The Liver, — Roe, and Chitterlings, — should be placed so that the Carver may observe them and invite the Guests to partake of them. N.B. Fisu, lke Meat, requires more cooking in cold than in warm weather j;—ifit becomes FROZEN, it must be thawed by the means we have directed for Meat, in the 6th page of the 2d Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. To go to MARKET For FIs, see Observa- tions, after (No. 182.) and the biti 3 Tables, at the end of this Work. FISH SAUCES. The MELTED Butter (No. 256.) for Fish, should be . thick enough to adhere to the Fish, and, therefore, * Tish is very frequently sent home frozen by the asengens to whom an Ice-house is now as DPREASELY an appendage (to preserve Fish) —as itis toa Confectioner, BAS FEET a FISH. 115 must be of the thickness of light Batter, as it is to be diluted with—Esszence or Ancuovy. (No. 433.) Soy, (No. 436.) Musuroom Cartsup, (No. 439.) Cavenne, (No. 404.) or Cuityi Vinecar, (No. 405.) Lemons or Lemon Juice, or Artificial Lemon Juice, see (No. 407*.) &c. are expected at all well served Tables. Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of their Taste, and Housrxeerers who value their Health, will prepare these articles at home ;—there are quite as many reasons why they should, as there are for the preference usually given to Home-baked Bread, and Home-brewed Beer*, &c. see Accum on Adulterations of Brean, Beer, Wine, Tea, Correr, Vinecar, Mustarp, Pepper, &c. “ Indeed, it would be difficult to men- tion a single article of food which is not to be met with in an adulterated state; and there are some which are scarcely ever to be procured genuine.” 12mo. 1820, page 3, 2nd Edition. N.B. The Liver of the Fish, pounded and mixed with Parsley and Butter, with a little Lemon Juice, &c.is an elegant and inoffensive relish to Fish. See (No. 288.) Musuroom Sauce Extempore, (No. 307), the Soup of Mock Turtle, (No. 247), will make an excellent Fish Sauce. _ On the comparatively nutritive qualities of Fish, see N.B. to (No. 181.) * See ACCUM ON BREWING — 12mo. 1820 — and “ HOME BREWED ALE,” by a Housekeeper, Robinson, 1804, in page 18: our Housekeeper tells us, that **a poor widow in his neighbourhood, has fitted up a Brewery for the sum of eighteen-pence sterling! A butter-tub (price nine-pence) is her mash- tub: three half tubs of smaller size, (at three-pence each) are her coolers— with these she brews half a bushel of malt at a time, and declares that she finds her Home Brewed Ale ‘‘ very comfortable indeed.’’—See also RAWLINSON . on BREWING Mat Liquor for Domestic use— printed for Johnson, 2nd Edition, 1807, price 1s. RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. CHAPTER VII. BROTHS.AND SOUPS. Tuer Cook must pay continual attention to the condi- tion of her Stewpans* and Soup-kettles, &c.—which should be examined every time they are used. The pru- dent Housewife will carefully examine the condition of them herself at least once a month. Their Covers also must be kept perfectly cleanand well tinned,—~and the Stewpans. not only on the inside, but about a couple of inches on the outside:—many mischiefs arise from their getting. out of repair,—and if not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain ; the Broths and Soups will look green and dirty,—taste bitter and poisonous,— and will be spoiled both for the Eye and Palate, and your credit will be lost. The Health, and even Life of the family depends upon this, and the Cook may be sure, her employers had rather pay the Tinman’s bill than the Doctor’s ;—there- fore, attention to this cannot fail to engage the regard of the Mistress, between whom and the Cook, — it will be my utmost endeavour to promote perfect Har- mony. If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her Pant, which will happen sometimes to the most careful Cook,—I advise her, by all means, imme- ~ diately to acquaint her employers, who will thank her * We prefer the form of a STEWPAN, to the Soup-Pot, — the former is more convenient to skim ; the most useful size is 12 inches diameter by 6 inches deep: this we would have of Silver,—or Iron,—or,Copper lined (not plated) with Silver. + This may be always avoided by Browning your meat in the Frying- pan—it is the browning of the meat that destroys the Stewpan. Pe te ee ae a>) al: = gia -BROTHS AND SOUPS. 117 for candidly mentioning such an accident; and cen- sure her deservedly if she conceal it. Take care to be properly provided with Sizvzs and Tammy cloths,—Spoons,—and Lap.Les,—make it a rule without an exception, never to use them till they are well cleaned, and thoroughly dried,nor any Stew- PANS, &c., without first washing them out with boiling water, and rubbing them well with a dry cloth anda little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c. or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used: never neglect this. Though we do not suppose our Cook to be such a naughty Slut, as to wilfully neglect her Broth Pots, &c. yet we may recommend her to wash them imme- diately, and take care they are thoroughly dried before the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them ina dry place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon :—attend to this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up: — never put by any Soup, Gravy, &c., in a metal utensil; in which, never keep any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of Cookery,—the acid, vegetables, and fat, &c. employed in making them—are capable of dissolv- ing them ; therefore stone or earthen vessels should be used for this purpose. STEWPANS AND Sovup-pots, with thick and round bottoms, (such as saucepans are made with) will wear twice as long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which Sand and Grease get into the joined part, and it is next to an impossibility, to dislodge it. The Editor claims the credit of having first suggested the importance of this construction of these utensils. Take care that the Lips fit as close as possible, that the Broth, Soup, and Sauces, &c. may not waste by evaporation*. They are good for nothing, unless they * Fit-on jamais de bon bouillon—dans une marmite découverte? Quelle 118 BROTHS AND SOUPS. fit tight enough to keep ithe Steam in, and the pron out. Stewpans and saucepans should be always bright’ on the upper rim, where the fire does not burn them:. but to scower them all over, is not only giving the Cook - needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels. Cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness, &c. in all your business, — which you will then get through easily and comfortably.—I do not mean the restless spirit of Molidusta, ‘‘ the Tidy One,” who is always frisk- ing about, in a whirlpool of bustle and confusion; and is always dirty,—under pretence of being always cleaning. Lean juicy Beef, — Mutton, — or Veal, — form the basis of Broth :—procure those pieces which afford the most and the richest succulence, and as fresh killed as possible*. See Tur Marxetine TaBLeEs at the end of this work. Stale meat will make your broth grouty ‘nl bad tasted, and Fat meat is only wasted. ‘This only ap- plies to those Broths which are required to be perfectly clear: we shall show -hereafter, in (No. 229.) that Fat and Clarified Drippings may be so combined with Vegetable Mucilage, as to afford, at the small cost of ONE PENNY PER QuaRT, a nourishing, and palatable Soup, fully adequate to satisfy Appetite, and support Strength :—- this will open ‘a new source to those bene- différence de gott, @odeur, et de substance entre une tranche de Beuf cuite a feu lent, dans un vaisseau fermé, ou un morceau de Beruf cuit a gros bouillons, dans une marmite entiérement ouverte ! L’avantage en est si conséquent, que j’ai souvent réussi 4 faire de meilleur bouillon, en quantité égale, avec. moi- tié moins de viande, dans une marmite bien fermée, qu’avec le double dans un vaisseau ouvert. Dou provient donc cette différence étonnante? C’est que dans un vaisseau découvert, la plus grande partie du sue des viandes et.du bouillon se dissipent en vapeurs, tandis que dans un vaiss¢au fermé, ces exha- lations nutritives, toujours condensées, sont dans une distillation perpétuelle, qui, retombant dans le vase comme la rosée, concentre la totalite de leur sucs, et conserve toutes leurs substances nouriciéres.” *Jn general, it has been considered the best EcoNomy to use the cheapest and most inferior meats for Soup, &c. and to boil it down till it is entirely destroyed, and hardly worth putting into the Hog-tub. Thisis a false Fruga- lity; buy good pieces of Meat, and only stew them till they are done enough to be eaten. BROTHS AND SOUPS. 119 volent housekeepers, who are disposed to relieve the Poor, — and will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them from being objects of Charity depend- ent on the precarious bounty of others, — by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abundant, salu- brious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and families. This Soup has the advantage of being very. easily and very soon made, with no nfore fuel than is neces- sary to warm a room—those who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savoury and satisfying Mealis produced by the judicious combination of cheap homely ingredients. Scorcn Bariey Broru, (No. 204) will furnish a Good Dinner of Sour and Mzav for Five-Pence per Head, PrEasE Soup (No. 221), will cost only Szrpence per Quart, Ox Tart Soup (No. 240) or the same PorTABLE Soup, (No. 252) for Five-pence per Quart, and (No. 224) an excellent Gravy Sour for Four-pence halfpenny per Quart. Duck Gisuer Soup, (No. 244) for Three-pence per Quart, and Fowxs’ Heap Soup in the same manner . for still less. (No. 239) will give you a Goop anp PLENTIFUL Dinner for Six people for Two Shillings and Two-pence. See also Suin or BEEF sTEWED, (No. 493) and AtamoveE Beer (No. 502). BROTH HERBS, SOUP ROOTS, AND SEASONINGS. Scotch barley, (No. 204.) | Beans, Pearl barley, Rice, , Flour, Vermicelli, Oxtinedl, (No. 572.) Maccaroni, Bread, Isinglass, Raspings, Potatoe mucilage, (448.) Peas, Mushrooms*, (No. 439.) * MusHRroom CaTsuPp, made as (No. 439,) or (No. 440,) will answer all the purpose of Mushrooms in soup or sauce, and no store-room should be without a stock of it. 120 Champignons, Parsnips, (No. 213.) Carrots, (No. 212.) Beet roots, Turnips, (No. 208.) Garlick, Shallots, see (No. 402.) Onions’, BROTHS AND SOUPS. Orange Thyme ||, Knotted Marjorum ||, (No. 417.) Sage ||, Mint, (No. 398.) Winter Savoury ||, Sweet Basil ||, (No. 397.) Bay leaves, gids Leeks, Tomatoe, Cucumbert, * Tarragon, (No. 396.) Celery, (No. 214.) Chervil, Burnet, (No. 399.) Allspice §, (No. 412.) Cinnamon §, (No. 416 .*) Ginger §, (No. 411.) Nutmeg §, Clove, (No. 414.) Celery seed f, Cress seed, see (No.397. |l) Parsley ||, see N. B. to (No. 261.) Common Thyme ||, Lemon Thyme ||, * All Cooks agree in this opinion, No savoury dish without an ONION. Sliced Onions fried, see (No. 209,) and note under (No. 517,) with some butter and flour, till they are browned, (and rubbed through a sieve,) are ex- cellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of most of the Relishes furnished by the *‘ Restaurateurs” —as we guess from the odour which ascends from their Kitchens, and salutes our olfactory nerves “ e passant.” The older and drier the Onion, the stronger its flavour, and the Cook will regulate the quantity she uses accordingly. t Poe has exactly the same flavour as Cucumber,— see Burnet Vinegar, Noa. 399. , : t The concentration of flavour in CELERY and Cress SExDis such, thathalf a drachm of it, (finely pownded) or double the quantity if not ground or pound- ed, costing only one third of a Farthing, willimpregnate half a galion of soup with almost as much relish as two or three heads of the fresh vegetable, weigh- ing seven ounces, and costing T'’wo-pence, This valuable acquisition to the Soup- pot deserves to be universally known. See also(No.409,) Essence of CELERY. This is the most frugal Relish we have to introduce to the Economist — but that our judgment in Palatics may not be called in question by our fellow mortals, who, as the Craniologists say, happen to have the Organ of Taste stronger than the Organ of Accumulativeness, we must confess, that, with the flavour, it does not impart the delicate sweetness, &c. of the fresh Vege- table: and when used, a bit of Sugar should accompany it. || See (No..419) and (No. 420) and (No. 459.) Fresh green Basth is sel- dom to be procured. When dried, much of its fine flavour is lost, which is fully extracted by pouring wine onthe fresh leaves, (see 307.) To procure and preserve the flavour of SWEET AND SAYOURY HERBS, eelery, &c. these must be dried, &c. at home. (see No. 417* and 461.) § See (No. 421) and (No. 457.) BROTHS AND SOUPS. 121 Mace, | Lemon-juice *, | Black pepper, Seville orange juice +, Lemon-peel, (No. 407 and} Essence of Anchovy, see 408.) (No. 433.) White pepper, The above Materials — Wine and Mushroom Catsup, (No. 439), combined in various proportions,—will make an endless variety{ of excellent Broths and Soups, quite as pleasant to the Palate, ands useful and agreeable to the Stomach, as consuming Pheasants and Par- tridges, and the long list of inflammatory piqguante, and rare and costly articles, recommended by former Cookery -book makers, — whose elaborately com- pounded Soups, are like their Made Dishes ; — in _which, though variety is aimed at, every thing has the same Taste,—and nothing its own. The general fault of our ENauisu Soups, seems to * Tf you have not fresh orange or LEMON Juicer, or Coxwell’s chrystallized Lemon Acid, the artificial Lemon Juice (No. 407) is a good substitute for it. ¢ The juice of the SEVILLE ORANGE is to be preferred to that of the LE- ~ MON,—the Flavour is finer and the Acid milder. * The erudite editor of the ‘* Almanach des Gourmands,” vol. ii. p. 30, : tells us, that ten folio volumes would not contain the Receipts of all the Soups that have been invented in that Grand School of Good Eating,—the Parisian | Kitchen. We add the following Directions for Sour-MAKING from the celebrated French Chemist, PARMENTIER: Régles générales pour la Préparation des Bouillons Alimentaires. _ 1. Viande saine, et convenablement saignée. 2. Vaisseaux de terre, de préférence a ceux de métal, parce que les premiers sont moins conducteurs de la chaleur, et qu’une fois échauffés, un peu de cendre chaude entretient l’ébullition légére que l’on désire. 3. Eau en quantité double du poids a celle de la viande employée. 4. Suffisante quantité de sel commun pour faciliter la séparation de Valbu- mine, ainsi que sa coagulation sous forme d’écume. 5. Température capable de porter le mélange al’ébullition pendant tout le temps que l’écume se rassemblera a la surface du liquide, et qu’on aura soin d’en séparer exactement. 6. ‘Température plus basse aprés Vopération précédente, et toujours con- stante, afin que le liquide ne fasse que frémir légérement, pour donner le temps aux substances nutritives, colorantes et extractives, contenues dans la viande, de s’unir et de se combiner avec l’eau, dans l’ordre qui convient a leur solubilité.”—PaRMENTIER, Code Pharmaceutique, 1811, p. 444. G 122 BROTHS AND SOUPS. be the employment of an excess of Spice, and too saaile é proportion of Roots and HERBs *. Besides the Ingredients I have enumerated, many Culinary scribes indiscriminately cram into "almost every Dish (in such inordinate Quantities — one would suppose they were working for the Asbestos palate of an Indian Fire-Eater) Anchovies,—Garlick+,— Bay leaves, and that hot fiery spice Cayennet pepper, this which the French call (not undeservedly) Pament enragé, (No. 404,) has somehow or other — unaccountably —acquired a character for being very wholesome,— whilst the milder Peppers and Spices, are cried down, as destroying the sensibility of the Palate, and Stomach, &c., and being the source of a thousand mischiefs. — We should just as soon recommend ALCcoHOL as being less intoxicating than Wane. The best thing that has been said in praise of PEPPERS is, “ that with all kinds of Vegetables, as “ also with Soups (especially vegetable soups) and ‘“‘ Fish, either Black or Cayenne Pepper may be taken o freely : they are the most useful stimulants to Old ‘¢ Stomachs, and often supersede the cravings for “ strong drinks; or diminish the quantity otherwise required.” See Carxisxue on Old Age, London, 1817. * © Point de Légumes, point de Cuisiniétre,” is a favourite culinary - adage of the French kitchen ; and deserves to be so: a better soup may be made with a couple of pounds of Meat and plenty of Vegetables, than our common Cooks will.make you with four times that quantity of meat; all for want of knowing the uses of Soup roots, and Sweet and Savoury herbs. t Many a good dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing the proper use of this, which is to give a flavour, and not to be predominant over the other ingredients : a morsel mashed with the point of a knife, and stirred in, is enough. See (No. 402.) { Foreigners have strange notions of English Taste. on whieh one of their Culinary Professors has made the following comment: “ The organ of Taste in these ISLANDERS is very different from our Delicate Palates— and sauce that would excoriate the palate of a Frenchman, would be hardly piquante enough to make any impression on that of an Englishman ;—thus, they prefer Port to Claret,” &c. As far as concerns our Drinking, we wish there was not quite so much truth in Monsieur’s remarks ; but the characteristic of the French and English kitchen is, Sauce without Substance—and Substance without Sauce. -To make CAYENNE of Enylish Chillies of infinitely finer flavour than the Indian, see (No. 404.) BROTHS AND SOUPS. 123 A certain portion of Condiment is occasionally service- able to excite and keep up the languid action of feeble and advanced Life;—we must increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system in- creases.—We leave those who love these things, to use them as they like; their flavours can be very extempo- raneously produced by Chilly-juice, or essence of Cayenne (No. 405), Eshallot wine (No. 402), and Essence of Anchovy (No. 433). There is no French Dinner without Soup, which is re- garded as an indispensable Overture ;—it is commonly followed by ‘‘ le Coup d’ Aprés,” a Glass of pure Wine, which they consider so wholesome after Soup, that their Proverb says, the Physician thereby loses a Fee ;—whe- ther the glass of Wine be so much more advantageous for the Patient than it is for his Doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent plan to begin the Banquet with a basin of good Soup— which, by moderating the Appetite for solid Animal food—is certainly a saluti- ferous custom.—Between the Roasts and the Entremets —they introduce “ le Coup du Milieu” —or a small glass of Jamaica Rum, or Essence of Punch, see(No. 471); or Curacao (No. 474). The introduction of LiquEvuRs is ty no means a modern custom; our ancestors were very fond of a highly spiced stimulus of this sort, commonly called Ipocrasse, which generally made a part of the last course — or was taken immediately after dinner. The Crafte to make Ypocras. “Take a quarte of red wyne, an ounce of synamon, and halfe an unce of gynger; a quarter of an ounce of greynes (probably of paradise) and long peper, and halfe a pounde of sugar; and brose (bruise) all this (not too small), and then put them in a bage (bag) of wullen clothe, made therefore, with the Wyne; and ~ lete it hange over a vessel, till the wynee be run thorowe.”— dn extract from Arnolé’s Chronicle. G 2 124 BROTHS AND SOUPS. _ It 1s a Custom which almost universally prevails in the Northern parts of Europe, to present a Dram or glass of Liqueur, before sitting down to Dinner :—this answers the double purpose of a wet to the Appetite, and:an announcement that Dinner is on the point of being served up.—Along with the Dram, is presented on a waiter, litter square pieces of Cheese, slices of cold Tongue, and dried Tongue, and dried Toast aecompa- nied with fresh Caviar. a We again caution the Cook to avoid Over-Seasoning, especially with predominant flavours, which, however agreeable they may be to some, are more extremely disagreeable to others, see page 59, as Zest (No. 255), Soy (No. 436), — Cavice — Coratch — Anchovy (No. 433),-— Curry powder (No. 455), — Savory Ragout Powder (No. 457), — Soup Herb Powder — (No. 459)—and (460),— Browning (No. 322), -— Catsups (No. 432), — Pickle liquor — Beer — Wine, and Sweet Herbs, and Savory Spice (No. 460), are very convenient auxiliaries to finish Soups, &e. The proportion of Wine (formerly Sack,—then Cla- ret,—now Madeira or Port) should not exceed a large Wine-glassful to a Quart of Soup :—thisis as much as can be admitted, without the vinous flavour becoming remarkably predominant;—though not only much larger quantities of Wine, (of which Claretis incomparably the best,because it contains less spirit and more flavour; and English palates are least acquainted with it); but even véritable Eau de Vie is ordered in many books, and used by many (especially Tavern Cooks)— so much are their Soups overloaded with relish, that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly make you Drunk, if they don’t make you Sick — all this, frequently arises from an old Cook measuring the excitability of the Eaters’ palates by his own,—which may be so blunted by incessant Tasting, that to awaken it,—requires Wine © instead of water, and Cayenne and Garlick, for Black pepper and Onion. BROTHS AND SOUPS. 125 Old Cooks are as fond of Spice—as Children are of Sugar, and season SOUP, which is intend- ed to constitute a principal-part of a Meal, —as highly as SAUCE, of which only a spoonful may be Relish enough for a plate of insipid Viands. See Oxzs. to (No. 355.)—However we fancy these, large quantities of Wine, &c. are oftener ordered in Cookery Books than used in the Kitchen; — practical Cooks have the Health of their employers too much at heart, —and love “ Sauce @ la Langue’ too well, to overwine their Soup, &c. TruFr_es and Morets* are also set down as a part of mostreceipts.—These, in theirGreen state, havea very rich, high flavour, and are delicious additions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by themselves, when they are fresh and fine: but in this state they are not served up half a dozen times in a year, at the first tables in the kingdom: — when dried, they become mere “ chips i pottage,’ and serve only to soak up good Gravy, —from which, they take more Taste — than they give. The Art of composing a rich Soup, is so to proportion the several ingredients one to another, that no parti- cular Taste be stronger than the rest; — but to produce such a fine harmonious relish, that the whole is delightful ; —this requires that judicious combination of the materials which constitutes the “ chef-deuvre” of Culinary Science. In the first place, take care that the Roots and Herbs be perfectly well cleaned ;— proportion the Water to the quantity of Meat, and other ingredients, — generally a pound of meat to a quart of water, for Soups; and double that quantity for Gravies. If they Stew gently, little more water need be put in at first, than is expected at the end ;—for when the Pot is covered quite close and the fire gentle, very little is wasted. * We tried to make Catsup of these by treating them like Mushrooms __ (No. 439), but did not succeed, 126 BROTHS AND SOUPS. GenTLE STEWING is incomparably the best, — the Meat is more tender and the Soup better flavoured. » ‘It is of the first importance, that the’ Cover of a Soup Kettle should fit very close,—or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. The most essential parts- are soon evaporated by Quick Bowling — without. any benefit, except to fatten the fortunate Cook who inhales them.— An evident proof that these Exhalations* - possess the most restorative qualities, is, that Taz Cook — who is in general the least Eater=~is, as generally, the Fattest person in the Family —from continually being surrounded by the Quintessence of ‘all the food she dresses, — whereof, she sends to HER’ Master only the fibres and calcinations — who is consequently Thin — Gouty—and the Victim of Diseases’ arising’ from insufficient ‘nourishment. BE It is not only the fibres of the meat which nourish us — but the Juices they contain—and these are not only . extracted but exhaled, if it be boiled: fast inv'am open vessel—a ‘succulent soup can never be made: but in a well closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts by preventing their dissipation.—This is a fact of which every intelligent. person will soon perceive the im- portance. - side . fe Place your -Soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the water hot, without causing it to bool—for at least half an Hour ;— if the water boils immediately,— it will not penetrate the meat, and cleanse it from the clotted, blood, and other matters which ought to go off — in-skum; the meat will be hardened.all over by violent * © A poor man being very hungry, staid so long in a:Cook’s shop, who was dishing up meat, that his stomach was satisfied with only the smell thereof. The Choleric Cook demanded of him to pay for his breakfast: the poor man denied having had any, and the controversy was referred to the deciding of the next man that should pass by, who chanced to be the most notorious Idiot:in the whole city: he, on the relation of the matter, determined that the poor man’s money should be put betwixt two empty dishes, and the cook should’ be recompensed with the jingling of the poor man’s money, as he was satisfied with the smell of the Cook’s meat.” This is affirmed by credible writers as no fable, but an undoubted truth.—FuLLer’s Holy State, lib. itin C.12. p. 20. BROTHS AND SOUPS. 127 Heat, — will shrink up as if it was scorched— and give hardly any Gravy ;—on the contrary,—by keeping the Water a certain time heating without boiling—the Meat swells—becomes tender—its fibres are dilated — and it yields a quantity of Skum, which must be taken off as soon as it appears. It is not till after a good Half Hour’s hot infusion, that we may mend the Fire, and make the Pot boil— still continue to remove the Skum, and when no more appears, put in the Vegetables, &c, and a little salt, These will cause more Skum to rise—which must be taken off immediately—then cover the pot very closely, and place it at a proper distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently and equally, and by no means fast. By quick and strong Boiling, the volatile and finest parts of the ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the coarser parts are rendered soluble ; —so you lose the good, and get the bad. | Soups will generally take from Three to Six hours. Prepare your Brotus and Soups the Evening before you want them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your Dinner the next day;— and when the Soup is cold, the Fat may be much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it: —when you decant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine, that they will escape through a Sieve, or even through a Tammis, which is the best strainer,—the Soups ap- pear smoother and finer—and it is much easier cleaned than any sieve.) If you strain it while tt 1s Hot, pass it through a clean Tammis or Napkin previously soaked in cold water; the coldness of this will coagulate the Fat, and only suffer the pure Broth to pass through. The full flavour of the Ingredients can only be ex- tracted by very long and slow simmering ;—during which, take care to prevent Evaporation by covering the Pot as close as possible: — the best Stewpot is a DIGESTER. | 128 BROTHS AND SOUPS. Clear Soups, must be perfectly transparent,—THIck- ENED Soups, about the consistence of rich Cream, — and remember that Thickened Soups require nearly double the quantity of Seasoning.—The Piquance of Spice, &c. is as much blunted by the Flour and Butter,—as the Spirit of Rum is by the addition of Sugar and Acid—so they _ are less salubrious, without being more savoury—from the additional quantity of Spice, &c. that is omngelan into the Stomach. To THICKEN aND GivE Bopy To Sours anp Sauces, the following materials are used—they must be eradually mixed with the Soup, till thoroughly. incor- porated with it; and it should have, at leat; half an hour’s gentle simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a Tammis or a fine Sieve.— Bread raspings, — Bread, — Isinglass, — Potatoe mucilage, (No. 448) fat skimmings and Flour, see (No. 248)—or Flour and Butter—or Flour; Barley, see (No. 204) Rice, or Oat- meal and water rubbed well together, see (No. 257), i in which this subject is fully explained. To give that Glutinous quality so much admired in Mock Turtle, see (No. 198), and note under (No. 247), (No. 252), and N. B. to (No. 481.). -To their very rich Gravies, &e. the French add the white meat of Partridges, Pigeons, or Fowls, pounded _ toa pulp, and rubbed through a sieve ;—a piece of Beef, which has been boiled to make Broth, pounded in the like manner, with a bit of butter and flour, (see Obs. to (No. 485*) and (No. 503), and gradually incor- porated with the Gravy or Soup, will be found a satis- factory substitute for these more expensive articles. Meat from which Broth has been made, (No. 185*) and (No. 252), and all its juice has been extracted, is then excellently. well prepared for POTTING, see (No. 503), — and is quite as good, or better than that. which has been baked till itis dry*; indeed if it be pounded, and * If the Gravy be not completely drained from it, the article potted will very soon turn sour, BROTHS AND SOUPS. 129 seasoned in the usual manner, it will be an elegant and savoury Luncheon —or Supper,—and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, and a Relish is procured, for Sandwiches, &c., (No. 504) — —of what heretofore has been, by the poorest House- keeper, considered the perquisite of the Cat. Keep some spare Broth, lest your Soup liquor waste in boiling, and get too thick, and for Gravy for your Mape. Disnes—various Sauces, &c. for many of which it is a much better basis than Melted Butter.. THe Soup or Mock Tur Lg, and the other thickened Soups (No. 247), will supply you with a thick Gravy Sauce for Poultry—Fish—Ragouts, &c.; and by a little management of this sort, you may generally contrive to have plenty of Good Gravies and Good Sauces with very little trouble or expense. See also Portable Soup, (No. 252.) . ; If Soup is too thin, or too weak,—take off the cover of your soup-pot, and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated,—or else, add some of the ‘Thickening materials we have before mentioned ; and. ‘have at hand some plain Brownine: see (No. 322), and the Obs. thereon.—This simple preparation is much ‘better than any of the compounds bearing that name, ‘as it colours Sauce or Soup, without much interfering with its flavour, and is a much better way of Colouring them than burning the surface of the Meat. When Soups and Gravies are kept from day to day, in Hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh scalded tureens, or pans, and placed ina cool cellar ;—in Temperate weather, every other day may be enough. We hope we have now put the common Cook into pos- session of the whole arcana of Soupmaking,—without much trouble to herself, or expense to her employers ; —and that it will not be said, in future,—that an Englishman only knows how to make Soup in his Sto- mach,—by swilling down a large quantity of Ale, or GS 130 BROTHS AND SOUPS. Porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the Meat he eats:—Joun Buti. may now make his Soup “ se- cundum artem,” and save his principal viscera a great deal of trouble. bysyonn gad A x ** In the following Receipts we have directed the Spices* and-Flavouring to be added at the usual time ;— but wt would greatly diminish the expense, and improve the Soups, if the Agents employed to give them a Zest, were not put in above fifteen minutes before the fimsh,—-and half the quantity of spice, &c. would do.— 154 : BOILING. a gentle fire, to simmer for five minutes, frequently shaking them about. While this is doing, have a thin slice of Bread toasted very lightly, divide it into Sippets, and lay them round the dish: pour the mince and sauce into the middle of it, and split the feet and lay rte round. it. N.B. Pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter, and fried a light brown. Obs.—If you have no Gravy in the water you stew the pettitoes in, put an Onion, a sprig of Lemon thyme, or sweet Marjoram, with a blade of bruised Mace, a few black Peppers, and a large teaspoonful of Mush- room catsup, (No. 439), and you will have a very tolerable substitute for Gravy. » But feeds no more, for Solomon is dead. Larks, and other small Bards.—(No. 80.) These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them; brush them with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in bread crumbs; spit them on a lark spit, and.tie that on to a larger spit, ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire will be enough; baste them with fresh butter while they are roasting, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs till they are well covered with them. For the Sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified butter, see (No. 259), and set it to drain before the fire, that it may harden: serve the crumbs under the Larks when you dish them, and garnish them with slices of Lemon. Wheat Ears — (No. 81.) Are dressed in the same way as Larks. Lobster. — (No. 82.) See Receipt for boiling, (No. 176.) We give no Receipt for roasting Lobster, Tongue, &c. being of opinion with Dr. King, who says, ** By Roasting, that which our forefathers Boiled, And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled.” THE COOK’S ORACLE. ap FRYING. To clarify Drippings. —(No. 83.) Pur your dripping into a clean saucepan over a stove or slow fire: when it is just going to boil, skim it well, Jet it boil, and then let it stand till it is a little cooled, then pour it through a sieve into a pan. Obs.-Well cleansed Drippings*, and the fat Skimmingst, * Mrs. MELROE, in her Economical Cookery, page 7, tells us, she has ascertained from actual experiments, that “‘ the Drippings of Roast Meat, combined with Wheat, Flour, Oatmeal, Barley, Pease, or Potatoe Starch, will make delicious Soup, agreeable and savoury to the Palate, and nutritive and serviceableé to the Stomach, and that while a joint is roasting, good Soup may be made from the drippings of the Far, which is the Essence of Meat, as seeds are of Vegetables, and impregnates Soup with the identical taste of eat.” *« Writers on Cookery give strict directions to carefully skim off the Fat, and in the next sentence order Butter (a much more expensive article) to be added,—instead of this, when any Fat appears at the top of your Soup or Stew, do ot skim it off, but unite it with the broth by means of the vegetable mucilages, Flour, Oatmeal, Ground Barley, or Potatoe Starch ; when suspended, the Soup is equally agreeable to the palate, and nutritive to the Stomach,” &c. * Cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make Gravies; they stew and boil lean meat for hours, and after all their Cookery tastes more of Pepper and Salt than any thing else ;: —If they would add the bulk of a chesnut of solid Far to a common sized sauce-boatful of Gravy, it will give it more sapidity than tweuty hours stewing lean meat would, unless a larger quantity was used than is warranted by the rules of frugality.” See (Nos. 205 and 229.) ** The experiment of Dr. Stark on the nourishing powers of different sub- stances, go very far to prove that three ounces of the Fat of Boiled Beef are equal to a pound of the Lean. Dr. Pages, the traveller, confirms this opinion. * Being obliged,’ says he, ‘ during the journey from North to South America by land, to live solely on Animal food, I experienced the truth of what is observed by Hunters, who live solely on Animal Food, viz. that besides their receiving little nourishment from the leaner parts of it, it soon becomes offensive to the Taste, whereas the Fat is both more nutritive, and continues to be agreeable to the Palate. To many Stomachs Fat is unpleasant and indi- gestible, especially when converted into oil by heat: this may be easily prevented by the simple process of combining the Fat completely with water, by the intervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting Butter, by means of flour, the Butter and water are united into a homogenous fluid.’”—J rom Prac- tical Economy, by a Physician. Callow, 1801. t See Note at foot of (No. 201.) K 194 } FRYING. of the Broth pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste every thing as well as Butter, except game and poultry, and should supply the place of butter for common fries, &c. for which they are equal to lard, especially if you repeat the clarifying twice over. N.B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may preserve it a fortnight in summer, and longer in winter. When you have done Frying, let the dripping stand a few minutes to settle, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean Basin or stone, Pan; and it will do a second and a third time as well as it did the first,—only the Fat you have fried Fish in must not be used for any other purpose. To clarify Suet, to fry with.—(No. 84.) Cut Beef or Mutton suet into thin slices, pick out all ‘the veins and. skins, &c. put it into a’ thick and well tinned saucepan, and set it over a very slow stove, or in an oven, till it is melted; you must not hurry ltt not done very slowly it will acquirea burnt taste, which you cannot get rid of; — then strain it through a hair sieve into a clean brown pan.— When quite cold, tie a paper over it and keep it for use. Hog’s-lard is prepared in the same way. Obs.—The waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion of over-feeding Cattle—till the Fat is nearly equal to. the Lean,—may, by good management, be in some measure prevented ,— by cutting off the superfluous part, and preparing it as above, or “by. making it into Puddings, see (Nos. 551 and 554), or Soup (No. 229.) - Steaks. —(No. 85.) Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put some Butter or (No. 83) into an iron fryingpan, and when it it hot, lay in the steaks, and keep turning them till they are done enough. For Sauce, see (No. 356), and for the accompaniments (No. 94.) - Obs.— Unless the Fire be prepared on purpose, we 4 BE ae Te ee: ee ene ee were Ea ee FRYING. 195 like this way of cooking them; the gravy is preserved ; and the meat is.more equally dressed, and. more evenly browned; which makes it, more relishing, and. invites the eye to encourage the Appetite. Beef Steaks and Onions.— (No. 86.) See also (No. 501.) Fry the. steaks according to the directions given in the preceding receipt; and have ready for them some Onions, prepared as directed in (No. 299.) ) For Stewed Rump Steaks, see (Nos. 500 and-501.) SausaGces —(No. 87.) » Are best when quite fresh made.—Putabit of Butter, or Dripping (No. 83), into a clean Frying Pan. as soon as it is melted (before it-gets hot) put in the Sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them, (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing), fry them over;a very slow fire, till they are nicely browned on all sides,—when they are done, lay them on a hair sieve, placed before the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying Sausages, is to let them get hot very gradually,—they then will not burst, if they are not stale. The common practice to prevent them bursting, is to prick them with a fork, but this lets all their Gravy OWE.) 2 10 You may froth them. by rubbing them with cold fresh butter, — and lightly dredge them with flour, and put ‘them in a cheese toaster or Dutch oven for a minute. Some over-economical Cooks, insist that no butter or lard, &c. is required ;-their own fat being sufficient. to fry them ;— we have tried it, —the Sausages were par- tially scorched, and had that pye-bald appearance, that fried things have when. sufficient fat is not allowed. Obs.— Poached Eggs, (No. 548), Pease-Pudding, (No. 555), and mashed, Potatoes, (No. 106), are agree- able accompaniments to Sausages, and Sausages are as K 2 196: FRYING. welcome with Boiled or Roasted Pouttry or Vzan; so are the ready dressed GERMAN Savsaces made by CuapreL. See Mem. to (No. 13), and a convenient, easily digestible, and invigorating food for the aged, and those whose teeth are defective, as is also (No. 503.) For Sauce (No. 356), to make Mustard (Nos. 369 and 70.) N. B. The Pork Sausages made by Cuappst, the corner of Fountain Court in the Strand, are a delicate “*€ Bonne Bouche ;” the meat is so finely minced, they require very little assistance from the Teeth, to render them quite ready for the Stomach. Sweatbreads full dressed. —(No, 88.) Parboil them and let them get cold, —then cut them in pieces, about three quarters of an inch thick,— dip them in the yolk of an Egg, then in fine bread crumbs, (some add Spice, Lemon peel, and Sweet herbs); put some clean dripping (No. 83), into a fryingpan; when it boils, put in the Sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For Garnish, crisp Parsley; and for Sauce, Mushroom catsup and melted butter, or Anchovy sauce, or (No. 356), (No. 343), or (No. 343%), or. Bacon or Ham as (No. 526) and (No. 527.) Sweetbreads plain.—(No. 89.) - Parboil and slice them as before, dry them ona. clean cloth, — flour them, and fry them a delicate brown; take care to drain the fat well from them, and garnish them with slices of lemon, and sprigs of chervil or Parsley, or crisp Parsley, (No, 318). For sauce (No. 356), or (No. 307), and Slices of Ham or. Bacon as (No. 526) or (No. 527.) ** Take care to have a Fresh Sweetbread ; —tt spotls sooner than almost any thing, therefore should be parboiled ‘a as soon as it comes in. This ts called blanching, or setting at: Mutton kidneys (No. 95) are sometimes broiled and — ; sent up with Sweetbreads. FRYING. {97 Veal Cutlets.—(No 90), and (No. 521.) Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick, trim them, and flatten them with a cleaver; you may fry them in fresh butter, or good drippings (No. 83); when brown on one side, turn them and do the other; if the © fire is very fierce, they must change sides oftener.— The time they will take, depends on the thickness of the Cutlet and the heat of the fire: — half an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes. Make some Gravy, by putting the trimmings into a stewpan with a little soft water, an onion, a roll of lemon peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf; stew over a slow fire an hour, then strain it; put an ounce of butter into a stewpan; as soon as it is melted, mix with it as much flour as will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then add the gravy by de- grees till it is all mixed, boil it for five minutes, and strain it through a tammis sieve, and put it to the cutlets : you may add some Browning (No. 322), Mushroom (No. 439), or walnut Catsup, or Lemon pickle, &c.; see also Sauces (No. 343) and (No. 348.) Or, ; Cut the Veal into pieces about as big as a crown piece, beat them with a cleaver, dip them in egg beat up with a little salt, and then in fine bread crumbs ; fry them a light brown in boiling lard; serve under them some good Gravy or Mushroom Sauce (No. 307), which may be made in five minutes. Garnish with Slices of Ham or Rashers of Bacon, (Nos. 526 and 527), or Pork Sausages, (No. 87.) Obs. — VEAL FORCEMEAT or stuffing, (Nos. 374 and 5), Pork Sausages, (No. 87), Raskers of Bacon, (No. 526 and 527), are very relishing accompaniments, fried and sent up in the form of Balls or Cakes, and laid round as a Garnish. Lamb or Mutton Chops—(No. 92.) Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with crisp parsley (No. 318), and slices of lemon. 198 FRYING. If they are bread-crumbed and covered with but- tered writing paper, and then broiled, they are called « Maintenon Cutlets.” . Pork Chops.—(No. 93.) , Cut the Chops about half an inch thick; Trim: them neatly ; (few Cooks have any idea how much credit they get by this), put a fryingpan. on the fire, with a bit. of butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all over, they will be enough in about fifteen minutes; take one upon a plate and try it; 1f done, season it with a little finely minced. onion, powdered Sage, and pepper and salt. For GaAey and Sauce, see (Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356.) .: + Obs.—A little powdered Sage, &c., strewed. over them, will give them a nice relish, or the .Savoury Powder in (No. 51), or Forcemeat Sausages _ like (No. 378.) Do not have them cut too thick,—about three Chops to an inch and a quarter,—trim them neatly, beat them flat, have ready some sweet herbs, or Sage and Onion chopped fine, put them in a stewpan with a bit of. Butter about as big as a walnut,—let them have one fry, beat two Eggs on a plate with a little ‘salt, add to them the herbs, mix it all well together, dip the chops in one at a time all over, and then with bread- crumbs, fry them in hot lard or drippings till they, are a | light brown. - Obs.—Veal, Lamb, or Mutton CaoRs are very att dressed ‘in like manner. To fry Fish, see (No. 145.) THE COOK’S ORACLE. BROILING. Chops or Steaks*.—(No. 94.) To Stew them, see (No. 500),—ditto with Onions, (No. 501.) Those who are nice about Steaks, never attempt to have them, except in weather which permits the meat to he hung till it is tender —and give the Butcher some ApoE notice of their wish for them. The best Steaks are those cut from the middle of a Rump, that has been killed at least four days in moderate weather, — much longer in cold weather — when they can be cut about six inches long, four inches wide, and half an inch thick—do not beat them, unless you suspect they will not be tender. Take care to have a very clear brisk fire, throw a little salt on it, make the Gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat from dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires more practice and care than is generally supposed to do Steaks to a nicety ; and for want of these little attentions, this very common dish, which every body is supposed capable of dressing, seldom comes to table in perfection. Ask those you Cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly done; and what accompaniments they like best; —it is usual to put a tablespoonful of Catsup * The season for these is from the 29th of September to the 25th of March: to ensure their peing tender when out of season, STEW THEM as in Receipt (No. 500. ) TO WARM UP COLD RUMP STEAKS. Lay them in a stewpan, with one large Onion cut in quarters, six berries of Alspice, the same of ‘Black Pepper, cover the Steaks with-boiling water, Jet them stew gently one hour, thicken the liquor with Tlour-and Butter rubbed together on a plate; if a pint of gravy, about one ounce of Flour and the like weight of Butter will do; put it into the stewpan, shake it well over the fire for five minutes, and it is ready ; lay the Steaks and Onion ona dish, and pour the Gravy through a sleve over them, 200 - BROILING. (No. 439)—or ‘ Balls’ Cavice,” and a little minced Shallot or (No. 402) into a dish before the fire; while you are broiling —turn the Steak, &c. with a pair of Steak tongs—it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes; rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up earnished with Pickles and finely scraped Horseradish. (Nos. 135, 278, 299, 255, 402, 423, 439, and 356,) are the Sauces usually composed for Chops ‘and Steaks. N.B. Macsern’s Receipt for dressing a Part Steak is the best— —— “‘ when ’tis done, ’twere well ** If ’twere done quickly” Obs. — ‘“* Le Véritable Brrreck, comme il se fait en Angleterre,” as Mons. Beauvilliers calls (in his 1’Art du Cuisinier, tom. i. 8vo. Paris, 1814, page 122,) what He says,—WeE call ‘‘ Romesteck,”—is as highly esteemed by our French neighbours, as their “ « Ragotits” are by our Countrymen, who —— ‘* post to Paris go, ~ “* Merely to taste their Soups, and Mushrooms know.” Kine’s Art of Cookery, p. 79. These lines were written, before the establishment of Aston Houser, Aldersgate-Street, where every Luxury that Nature and Art produce, is served of the primest quality, and in the most scientific manner — in a style of princely magnificence and perfect comfort — the Wines, Liqueurs, &c. are superlative — and every de- partment of the business of the Banquet is conducted. in the most liberal manner. The French author whom we have before so often quoted, assures les Amateurs de Bonne Chere on the other side of the Water, it is well worth their while to cross the Channel to taste this favourite English dish, which when ‘ mortifiée @ son point” and well dressed, he says, is superior to most of the subtle Relishes of the Parisian kitchen.— Almanach des Gourmands, vol. 1. p. 27. Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal Food—the celebrated TRainERS, Sir Thomas Parkyns, &c. greatly preferred Berr-EaTERS—to Sheep-Biters— as they called those who ate Mutton. When Humpfiries BROILING. 201 the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the keeper of Ipswich Jail, he was at first fed on Beef, but got so much flesh -—it was changed for Mutton— roasted, or broiled, — when boiled, a great part of the nutritive juices of the meat is extracted. The principles upon which TRaINING* is conducted, resolve themselves into Temperance without abstemious- ness, and Exercise without fatigue. Kidneys. — (No. 95.) Cut them through the long way,—score them, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on them, and run a wire skewer through them to keep them from curling on the Gridiron —so that they may be evenly broiled. Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till they are done; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, if the fire is brisk : or Fry them in Butter, and make gravy for them in the pan (after you have taken out the kidneys), by putting in a teaspoonful of fiour ; as soon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will make gravy; they will take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For Sauce, (Nos. 318, 355, and 356.) Obs. —Some Cooks chop a few Parsley leaves very fine, and mix them with a bit of fresh butter and a little Pepper and Salt — and put a little of this mixture oneach Kidney. A Fowl or Rabbit, &c.—(No. 97.) We can only recommend this method of dressing, when the Fire is not good enough for roasting. Pick and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it open down the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season it with a little pepper and salt, have a clear fire, and set the gridiron at a good distance over it, lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire ; (you may egg it and strew some grated bread over it) and broil it till it is a fine brown—take care the fleshy side is not burnt. Lay it on a hot dish, pickled Mush- « Beit “ Tur Art OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING Lirs,”— by the Author of “ THE COOK’s ORACLE.” K 5 202 | BROILING. rooms, or Mushroom Sauce (No. 305), thrown over it, or Parsley and Butter (No. 261), or! melted Butter flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 307.))0 Garnish it with slices of Lemon, and the Liver and _ Gizzard, slit and notched, and seasoned with pepper and ‘salt, and broiled nicely brown, and some slices of lemon. For Grill sauce, see (No. 353.). | N. B. “ It was a great mode, and taken up by the court party in Oliver Cromwell’s time, to roast half Capons — pretending they had a more exquisite taste and nutriment than when dressed whole.” — See JoAN CrROMWELL’s Kztchen, London, 1664, page 39. Pigeons, —(No. 98.) To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well grown, and well fed. Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear slow fire ; turn them often, and put a little butter on them: when they are done, pour over them, either stewed (No. 305), or pickled Mushrooms, or Catsup and melted Butter (No. 307)—or (Nos. 348 or 355.) Garnish with fried bread Crumbs or Sippets (No. 319); or, when the Pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the backs, or breasts; season them with pepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a teaspoonful of water, and tie them close at both ends; so when they are brought to Table, they bring their Sauce with them. Eeg and dredge them well with grated bread (mixed with Spice and Sweet herbs,: if you please), then i them on the gridiron, and turn them frequently: 1 your fire is not very clear, lay them on a sheet of: cd well buttered, to keep them from: getting, smoked. They are much better broiled whole. The same Sauce as in the preceding receipt, or (Nos. 343, or 348.) Veat Curiers (No. 521), and (No. 91.) Pork Cuops (No. 93.) THE COOK’S ORACLE. VEGETABLES, FIFTEEN WAYS OF DressinG PoTaATOEs.* (No. 102.) Tue Vegetable Kingdom affords no Food more whole- some, more easily procured, easily prepared, or less expensive than the Potatoe; yet although this most useful vegetable is dressed almost every day, in almost every family,—for One plate of Potatoes that comes to table as it should, Ten are spoiled. Be careful in your choice of Potatoes; no vegetable varies so much in colour, size, shape, consistence, and flavour. The reddish coloured are better than the white, but the yellowish looking ones are the best. Choose those of a moderate size, free from blemishes, and fresh, and buy them in the Mould; they must not be wetted till they are cleaned to be cooked. Protect them from the Air and Frost—by laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering them with mats, or burying them in sand or in earth. The action of Frost—is most destructive — if it be considerable, the life of the vegetable is de- | _ stroyed, and the Potatoe speedily rots. Wash them, but do not pare or cut them unless they are very large,—fill a saucepan half full of Potatoes of « “ Next to Bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparation of which, as food, deserves to be more attended to, than the Potatoe.”?—Sir JOHN SINCLAIR’s Code of Healih, vol. i, p. 354. “« By the Analysis of Potatoe, it appears that 16 ounces contained 11} onnces of water —and the 44 ounces of solid parts remaining afforded scarce a drachm of earth. »” _. PARMENTIER’S Obs. on Nutritive Vegetables, 8vo. 1783, p. 12. ‘ 204 VEGETABLES. , equal size*, (or make them so by dividing the larger ones)— put to them as much cold water as will cover them about an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury than when drowned in water—most boiled things are spoiled by having too little water, but - Potatoes are often spoiled by too much: they must merely be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that they may be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then take them off, and set them by the side of the fire to simmer slowly till they are seft enough to admit a fork,— (place no dependence on the usual test of their skin cracking, which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to some Potatoes when they are not half done, and the inside is quite hard,)—then pour the water off, (if you let the Potatoes remain in the water a moment after they are done enough— they will become waxy and watery,) uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a distance from the fire as will secure it from burning ; their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the Potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy. You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the saucepan’s diameter, over the Potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till wanted. _ Obs.—This method of managing Potatoes is in every _ respect equal to steaming them; and they are dressed Toe ne half the time. There is such an infinite variety of sorts sad sizes of Potatoes, that it is impossible to say how long they . ea: bake doing; the best way is to try them with a , fork, » Modetate sized Potatoes will generally be _ enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. See Obs. to __ (No, 106.) | Cold Potatoes Fried. —(No. 102.*) Put a bit of clean Dripping into a frying-pan; when . * Or the SMALL ONES will be done to-pieces before the LARGE ONES are boiled enough. VEGETABLES. 205 it is melted, slice in your Potatoes with a little pepper ‘and salt, put them on the fire, keep stirring them ;— when they are quite hot, they are ready. Obs.—This is a very good way of re-dressing Pota- toes — or see. (No. 106.) ‘ Potatoes boiled and broiled. —(No. 103.) Dress your Potatoes as before directed, and put them on a gridiron over a very clear and brisk fire ; turn them till they are brown all over, and send them up dry, with melted butter in a cup. Potatoes fried in Slices or Shavings. —(No. 104.) Peel large Potatoes, slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and round as you would peel a lemon; dry them well in a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices of potatoe, and keep moving them till they are crisp; take them up and lay them to drain on a sieve; send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over them. % Potatoes fried whole. —(No. 105.) was ‘When nearly boiled enough, as directed in (No. ee put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef drippings; shake them about often ae ee i fear of burning them), till they are brown and crisp : drain them from the fat. Obs.—It will be an elegant improvement to the — bi three last receipts, previous to frying or broiling ‘the: } Potatoes, to flour them and dip them in the yolk ofan — ege, and then roll them in fine sifted bread crumbs ; they will then deserve to be called PoTaToEsS FULL DRESSED. a Potatoes mashed. — (No. 106.) See also (No. 112. ) When your. Potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain e + “af Laat a N:. 906. VEGETABLES. and dry them perfectly, pick out every speck, &ec. and rub them through»a cullender into a clean stewpan : to a pound of Potatoes put about half an ounce of butter, and a tablespoonful of milk; do not make them too moist; mix them well together. Obs. — After ‘Lady-day, when the Potatoes are get- ting old and specky, and zn frosty weather, this is the — best way of dressing them. You. may put them into shapes, egg them with yolk of Egg, and brown them very slightly before a slow fire. Potatoes mashed with Onions. —(No. 107 - Prepare some boiled onions, by putting them through a sieve, and mix them with Potatoes. In proportioning the Onions to the Potatoes, you will be guided by your wish to have more or less of their flavour. Obs. — See note under (No. 555.) Potatoes Escaloped.-—(No. 108.) Mash Potatoes as directed in (No. 106); then butter some nice clean scollop shells, or patty pans, put in your Potatoes, make them smooth at the top, cross a knife over them, strew a few fine bread crumbs on them, sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few _ drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven ;— when they are browned on the top, take them carefully out of the shells, and brown the other side. Potatoes Roasted. —(No. 109.) Wash and dry your Potatoes (all of a size), and put them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese toaster ;— take care not to put them too near the fire, or they will get burnt on the outside before they are warmed through. _ Large Potatoes will require two hours to roast them. -N.B. To save time and trouble, some Cooks half boil them first. This is one of the best opportunities the BakErR has to rival the Coox. VEGETABLES. 207 « Potatoes Roasted under Meat. — (No. 110.) Halt boil large Potatoes, — drain the water from them, and put them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under Meat that is roasting, and baste them with some of the dripping;— when they are browned on one side, turn them aad brown the other, — send them up round the meat, or in a small dish. Potatoe Balls. —(No. 111.) Mix mashed Potatoes with the yolk of an egg, roll them into balls, flour them, or egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in clean drippings,—or brown them in a Dutch oven. Potatoe Balls Ragottt —(No. 112.) Are made by adding to a pound of Potatoes. a quarter of a pound of grated ham, or some sweet herbs, or chopped parsley, and onion or shallot, salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, or other spice, with the yolk of a couple of eggs; they are then to be dressed as (No. 111.) Obs.— An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good supper dish. Poiatoe Snow. —(No. 114.) The Potatoes must be free from. spots, and the whitest you can pick out; put them on in cold water; when they begin to crack, strain the water from them, and put them into a clean stewpan by the side of the fire till they are quite dry and fall to pieces; rub them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb them afterwards. Potatoe Pie. — (No. 115.) Peel and slice your Potatoes very thin, into a pie dish; between each layer of Potatoes put a little chopped onion, (three quarters of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound of Potatoes); between each layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt, put in a little a \eabeats ne 208 VEGETABLES. water, and cut about two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay them on the top; cover it close with puff paste. It will take about an hour and a half to bake it. N.B. The Yolks of four Eggs (boiled hard) may be added; and when baked, a tablespoonful of good Mushroom Catsup poured in through a funnel. Obs. — Cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls, and Button Onions, seasoned with Curry powder, &c., make a favourite Vegetable Pie. New Potatoes. — (No. 116.) The best way to clean New Potatoes, is to rub them with a coarse cloth or a flannel, or scrubbing-brush ; and proceed as in (No. 192.) N.B. New Poraross are poor, watery, and insipid till they are full two inches diameter — they are hardly worth the trouble of boiling before Midsummer Day. Obs.—Some Cooks prepare Sauces to pour over Potatoes, made with butter, salt, and pepper,— or gravy, or melted butter and catsup,—or stew the Potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with pepper and salt;—-or bake them with herrings, or sprats, mixed with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet herbs, vinegar, and water;—or cut mutton or beef into slices, and lay them in a stewpan, and on them potatoes and spices, then another layer of the meat alternately, pouring in a little water, covering it up very close, and stewing slowly. Potatoe Mucilage (a good substitute for Arrow Root), (No. 448.) Jerusalem Artichokes —(No. 117.) Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just before directed for potatoes. N.B. They should be covered with thick melted butter, or a nice White or Brown Sauce. Cabbage. — (No. 118.) Pick Cabbages very ae: and wash them thot ‘hy amp My ae _ _— * 2 a P, aes a RT aS eee ci or sas, - — “aim wis ~ ee is = — — _ . = a Sl ah at s i ae : SR Nn Pas wee 1g Sl ee ce en, PAD Bey! 5 ree ed a — = * — <— - ne ee —en Fe sc aA “ FS “ : oa Se pion 7 ye ew _— iia atte VEGETABLES. 209 roughly, then look them over carefully again; quarter them if they are very large. Put them into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water; if any scum rises, take it off; put a large spoonful of salt into the saucepan, and boil them till the stalks feel tender. A Young Cabbage will take about twenty minutes, or half an hour— when Full Grown, near an hour ; see that they are well covered with water all the time, and that no smoke or dirt arises from stirring the fire. With careful management, they will look as beautiful when dressed, as they did when growing. Obs.—Some Cooks say, that it will much ameliorate the flavour of strong Old Cabbages to boil them in two waters; 7.¢. when they are half done, to take them out, and put them directly into another saucepan of boiling water, instead of continuing them in the water into which they were first put. Boiled Cabbage fried. — (No. 119.) See receipt for Bubble and Squeak. Savoys — (No. 120.) ~ Are boiled in the same manner; quarter them when you send them to table. | Sprouts and Young Greens. —(No. 121.) The Receipt we have written for Cabbages will answer as well for Sprouts, only they will be boiled enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. Spinage. — (No. 122.) Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and washed in three or four waters; when perfectly clean, lay it on a sieve, or cullendes; to drain the water from it. Put a saucepan on the fire, three parts filled with water, and large enough for the Spinage to float in it; put a small handful of salt in it, let it boil, skim it, and then put in the Spinage, make it boil as quick as dy 210 VEGETABLES. possible till quite tender, pressing’ the Spinage down: frequently that it may be done equally; it will be enough in about ten minutes, if boiled in plenty of water ; if the. Spinage isa little old, give it a few. minutes longer. When. done, strain-it on the back of a sieve, squeeze it dry with.a plate, or between two. trenchers, chop it fine, and put it into a stewpan with a bit-of butter and a little salt; a little cream is a- great improvement, or, instead of either, some rich: Gravy. Spread. it in a dish, and score it into squares of proper size to help at table. Obs.— Grated, nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon juice, is a favourite addition with some, cooks, and is) added when you stir it up inthe stewpan with the: butter garnished. Spinage: is frequently : serveds with, | Poached: Eggs with fried bread. i Aspar agus. - — (No. 123.) Set a stewpan with plenty of water in it on the fire; sprinkle a handful of salt im it, let it boil, and skim it: then put in your Asparagus, prepared thus :— Scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly clean, throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them; when they are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a, quarter hundred..each, with bass, if you can get it, or tape; string cuts them to pieces: cut offthe stalks at the bottom, that they may be all of a length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green part; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done enough. Great care must be taken to watch the exact time of their becoming tender; take them:up just at. that instant, and they will have )their. true flavour and colour ;—a minute or two more boiling destroys both. While the Asparagus is boiling, toast around of a quartern loaf, about half an inch thick, brown it deli- cately on, both sides, ‘dip it lightly in the) liquor the: Asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of a ; ‘i Bic, * VEGETABLES, 211 dish;, melt. some butter (No. 256), then lay in the Asparagus upon the Toast, which must project beyond the Aapéragne, that the company may see there is a Toast. Pour no butter over them, but send. some up in a boat, or White Sauce (No. 364), (No. 2.) Sea Kale — (No. 124.) Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same way as Asparagus. , - Cauliflower.— (No. 125.) Choose those that are close and white, and of the middle size, trim off the outside leaves, cut the stalk _ off flat atthe bottom, let them lie in salt and water an hour before you boil them. » Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in it, skim it well, and let it boil slowly till done, which a small one will be in fifteen, a large one in about twenty minutes, take at wp the moment it 1s enough, a minute or | two longer boiling will spoil it. N. Bs Cold Cauliflowers, and French Beans, Carrots and Turnips, boiled so as to eat. rather crisp, are sometimes dressed as a Salad, (No. 372 or 453.) Brocol.—(No. 126.) Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, — and a saucepan on the fire with plenty of water, and a handful of salt in it. Brocoliis prepared by stripping off all the side shoots, leaving the top; peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife; cut it close off at the bottom, and put it into ine pan of cold water, _ When the water in the stewpan boils, and the sai: is ready, put it in, let it boil briskly till the stalks feel tender, from ten: to twenty minutes ;— take it up with a slice, that you may not break it; —Jet it drain, and serve up. If some of the heads of Brocoli are much bigger than , pee 912 VEGETABLES. the others, put them on to boil first, so that, they may get all done together. Obs.— It makes a nice supper dish served upon a toast, like Asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable, and you must take it up the moment it is done, and send it to table hot. Red Beet: Roots — (No. 127.) Are not so much used as they deserve; they are dressed in the same way as Parsnips, only neither scraped nor cut till after they are boiled: they will take from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling, according to their size, — to be sent to table with Salt Fish, Boiled Beef, &c. When young, large, and juicy, it is a very good variety, — an excellent garnish, — and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant pickle. Parsnips —(No. 128.) Are to be cooked just in the same manner as Carrots ; they require more or less time according to their size, therefore match them in size, and you must try them, by thrusting a fork into them as they are in the water ; when that goes easily through, they are done enough : ‘boil them from an hour to two hours, according to their size and freshness. Obs.—Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as Turnips, and some cooks quarter them before they boil them. Carrots. — (No. 129.) Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped ; an hour is enough for young spring carrots; grown carrots must be cut in half, and will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done, rub off the peels with a clean coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. ‘The best way to try if they are done enough, is to pierce them witha fork. VEGETABLES. O13 Obs.—Many people are fond of cold Carrot with cold Beef. Turnips. — (No. 130.) Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside; full- grown turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling ; if you slice them, which most people do, they willbe done sooner ; try them with a fork, — when tender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly drained from them: send them up whole; do not slice them. N.B. To very young Turnips leave about two inches of the Green top. See (No. 132.) To Mash Turnips.—(No. 131.) When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as dry as possible between two trenchers,, put them into a saucepan, mash them with a wooden spoon, and rub them through a cullender, add a little bit of butter, keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with them, and they are ready for table. Turnp Tops —(No. 132.) Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip roots. Put them into cold water an hour - before they are dressed; the more water they are boiled in, the better they will look;—jif boiled in a small quantity of water, they will taste bitter; — when the water boils, put in a small handful of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and young, they will be done in about twenty minutes; drain them on the back of a sieve. French Beans. — (No. 133.) Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point and strip off the strings: — If not quite fresh, have a bowl of spring water, with a little salt dissolved in it, standing before you, and as the beans are cleaned and stringed, throw them in :—when all are done, put them on the fire, in boiling water, with some salt in it; 214 VEGETABLES. ‘when they have boiled fifteen: or twenty minutes, ‘take one out and taste it; as soon as they are tender, take them up, throw them into a cullender or sieve to drain. _To send up the beans whole is.much the best method when they are thus young, and their delicate flavour and colour are much better preserved. . When: a little more ‘grown, they must. be cut across. Tn. tO, - after stringing; and for common tables, they are. split, and divided across; but those who are nice, never. have them at such a growth as to require splitting... When they are large, they look very pretty cut into Lozenges. Obs. — See N. B, to (No. 125.) Green Pease.*—(No.:134.) Young Green Pease, well’ dressed, are’ one of the most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young; it-is equally indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and: cooked assoon as they are shelled, for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness. If you wish to feast upon PEASE IN PERFECTION, you must have them gathered the same day they are dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled. Pass them through a riddle, i. e. a coarse sieve, which is made for the purpose of separating them: This precaution is necessary, for large and small pease cannot be boiled together, as the former will take more time than the latter. For-a peck of pease, set ona saucepan with a-gallon of water in it; when it boils, put in your pease with a tablespoonful of salt, — skim it well; keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according, to their age and size: the best way-to judge of their being done enough, and indeed. the only way to make'isure of * These and all other fruits and Lo hs Br &c. by Mr. APPERT’S plan, itis said, may be preserved in full flavour for twelve months.—See APPERT’s Book, 12mo. 1812. We have eaten of several specimens of preserved Pease, —W. ui h Jooked pretty enough,—but flavour they had none at all. } i ; : | VEGETABLES: ° 215 cooking them to, and not beyond, the point’ of per- fection, or, as Pea-eaters say, of ‘‘ boiling them to a bubble,” is to take some out with a spoon and taste theme. .osjt ; | oN When they are enough, drain them on a‘hair sieve. If you like them buttered, put them into a pie dish, divide some butter into small bits, and:lay them on the pease ; put another dish over them, and turn them over and over; this will melt the butter through them, but as all people do not like buttered pease, you had better send’ them to table plain, as they come out of the Saucepan, with melted butter (No. 256), in a sauce ‘tureen. It is usual to boil some Mint with the Pease, but if you wish to garnish the Pease with Mint, boil a few sprigs ina saucepan by themselves. See Sage and Onion Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. 458.) To. boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham and Bacon (No. 526), and Reltshing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527.) N.b. A Peck of young Pease will not yield more than enough for a couple of hearty Pea-Eaters,—when the pods are full, it may serve for three. Mem.—Never think of purchasing Pease ready-shelled, for the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this Receipt. Cucumber Stewed.— (No. 135.) Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water : when they are dry, flour and fry them in fresh butter ; let the butter be quite hot before you put in the cucum- bers; fry them till they are brown, then take them out with an egg slice, and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them: (some Cooks fry sliced Onions or some small Button Onions with them till they are a delicate light brown colour, drain them from the fat, and) then put them into a stewpan, with as much Gravy as will cover them; stew slowly till they are tender; take out the cucumbers with a slice, thicken the gravy wit D1G VEGETABLES. flour and butter, give it a boil up, season it with pepper and salt, and put in the Cucumbers; as soon as they are warm, they are ready. The above rubbed through a Tammis or fine sieve, will be entitled to be called “ CucumBer Sauce.” See (No. 399), Cucumber Vinegar. This is a very favourite sauce with lamb or mutton cutlets, stewed rump steaks, &c. &c.; when made for the latter, a third part of sliced onion is. sometimes fried with the cucumber. Artichokes. — (No. 136.) a Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of: boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till they are tender, which _ will take an hour and a half, or two hours; the surest way to know when they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; trim them and drain them on a sieve; and send up melted butter with them, which some put into small cups, so that each guest may have one. Stewed Onions. — (No. 137.) The large Portugal Onions are the best; take off the top-coats of halfa dozen of these, (taking care: not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or the onions will go to pieces); and put them into a stewpan broad enough to hold them without laying them a top of one another, ‘and just cover them with good broth. Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two hours; when you dink them, turn them upside down, and pour the sauce over. Young Onions stewed, see (No. 296.) Sallads — (No. 138*), also (No. 372.) Those who desire to see this subject elaborately illustrated, we refer to “‘ Evytyn’s Acetaria,” a dis- course of Sallets, a 12mo. of 240 pages. London, 1699. _Mr. E. gives us “ an account of seventy-two herbs “ VEGETABLES. 217 proper and fit to make Sallet with,” — and a table of Thirty- Five, telling their seasons and proportions. ‘ In the composure of a Sallet, every plant should come in to bear its part, like the notes in Music: thus the comical Master Coox introduced by Damoxenus, when asked ‘ what Harmony there was in Meats ? — ‘ the very same,’ says he, ‘ as the 3d, 5th, and 8th have to one another in music — the main skill lies in this, not to mingle (‘ sapores minime consentientes’)—‘ ‘Tastes not well joined —inelegant, as our Paradisian Bard directs Eve when dressing a sallet for her Angelical Guest.’”— Mitton’s Paradise Lost. ~ He gives the following receipt for the OxoLEon :— _ “Take of clear and perfectly good Oyl-Olive three parts — of sharpest Vinegar, (sweetest of all Condiments, for it incites appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best sauce,) Limon, or juice of Orange, one part — and therein let steep some slices of Horseradish, with a little Salt: some, in a separate Vinegar, gently bruise a pod of Ginny Pepper, and strain it to the other —then add as much Mustard as will lie upon a half-crown piece. Beat and mingle these well together with the yolk of two new-laid Eggs boiled hard, and pour it over your Sallet, stirring it well together. The swper-curious insist that the knife with which Sallet herb is cut must be of Silver—and some who are husbands of their Oy] pour at first the Oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the Acids—which they pour on last of all; and it is incredible how small a quantity of Oy] thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful assembly of Sallet Herbs.” Obs.— Our own Directions to prepare and dress Salads will be found under (No. 372.) * THE <4, COOK’S. ORACLE. FISH. a Turbot to Boil.—(No. 140:) Tas excellent Fish is in season the greatest part of the Summer,—when good, it is at once firm and tender, and abounds with rich gelatinous nutriment. Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh, by rubbing it lightly with salt, and keeping it in a cold place, you may in moderate weather preserve it for a couple of days*: An Hour or two before you dress it, soak it in spring water with some salt in it,—then score the skin across - the thickest part of the back; (this is: to prevent it breaking on the Breast, which will happen from the fish swelling, and cracking the skin, if this precaution be not used.) Puta large handful of Salt into a fish kettle with cold water, lay your fish on a fish strainer, put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim it well; then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as eently as possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes; (if it boils fast, the fish will break to pieces ;) sup- posing it a middling size Turbot, and to weigh eight or nine pounds. | apart Rub a little of the inside Red Coral spawn of the Lobster through a hair sieve, without butter; and when the Turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled Parsley, sliced Lemon, and finely scraped Horseradish. * “JT have ascertained, by many years’ observation, that a Tarbot kept two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh one.”—~UDB’s Cookery, Pp. 238. oft FISH. 219 If you like to send it to table in Full Dress, sur- round it with nicely fried Smelts (No. 173), laying the largest opposite the broadest part of the Turbot, so that they may form a well proportioned fringe for it,-— or Oysters (No. 183.*) Send up Lobster sauce (No. 284), two boats of it, ifit:is for a large party. N. B. Cold: Turbot with (No. 372) for Sauce — or take off the Fillets that are left— as soon as the Turbot returns from Table—and they will make’ a side dish for your next dinner, warmed in (No. 364), (No. 2.) Obs.—The thickest part is the favourite, and the Carver of this Fish must’ remember to ask his friends if they are Fin-Fanciers. It will save a troublesome Job to the Carver, if the Cook, when the Fish is boiled, cuts:the spine-bone across the middle. A Brill —(No: 143.) Is dressedithe same way as a Turbot. Soles to Boil, —(No. 144.) A.fine freshsruick Soxz, is almost as good eating as a Turbot. . Wash and clean it nicely; put it into a fish-kettle with a handful of salt, and as‘much cold water as will cover. it; set it on the side of the fire, take off the scum as it rises, and let it boil gently ; — about five minutes (according to its size) will be long enough, unless it be very large. Send it up on a fish-drainer garnished with slices of Lemon and sprigs of curled Parsley, or nicely fried Smelts (No. 173), or Oysters (No. 183.) _ Obs. — Shces-of Lemon are a universally acceptable garnish, with either fried or broiled fish; —a few Sprigs of crisp Parsley may be added, if you wish to make it look very smart; and Parsley, or Fennel and butter, are excellent sauces, see (No. 261), and (No. 265), or Chervil sauce (No. 264), Anchovy (No. 270.) ~ N,B. Bottep Sores are very good, warmed up like L2 220 FISH, Eels, Wiggy’s way (No. 164), or covered with White Sauce (No. 364, No. 2), and see (No. 158.) SoLEs, OR OTHER Fisn, to Fry.—(No. 145.) Be sure they are quite fresh, or the most expert Cook cannot make them either look, or eat well. . An hour before you imtend to dress them, wash them thoroughly, and wrap them in a clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, — or the Bread crumbs will not stick to them. Prepare some Bread Crumbs*, by rubbing some stale bread through a Cullender ; or, if you wish the Fish to appear very delicately and highly finished, through 2 Hair sieve. Beat the yolk and white of an Ege well together, or a plate, with a fork; — flour your fish to absorb any moisture that may remain, and wipe it off with a clean cloth : — dip them in the egg on both sides all over, or, what is better, egg them with a paste-brush,— strew the Bread Crumbs all over the Fish, so that they cover every part,—take up the fish by the. head, _and shake off the loose crumbs. The Fish is now ready for the Fryingpan. Put a Quart or more of fresh sweet Olive Oil, or Clarified Butter (No. 259), Dripping (No. 83), Lard+) or Clarified Drippings (No. 83); be sure they are quite sweet and perfectly clean: (the Fat ought to cover the Fish ;) what we here order, is for Soles about ten inches long, —if larger, cut them into pieces the proper size to help at table; this will save much time and trouble to the Carver, — when you send them to table, lay — them in the same form they were before they were cut, and you may strew a little curled Parsley over them: * A large pair of Sules will take the fourth part of a quartern Loaf, which now costs twopence halfpenny. OATMEAL is a good substitute fe Bread Crumbs, —and costs comparatively nothing !! + THe Far wiil do Two or Three times, if strained through a tise sieve, and put by; if you do not find it enough, put a little fresh to it. Read AR 83), and the 3d Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. FISH. 291 they are much easier managed in the Fryingpan, and require less Fat; and you can by this means only fry the thick part enough, without frying the thin too much. Very Large Soles should be boiled (No. 144), or fried in Fillets (No. 147.) Set the fryingpan over a sharp and clear fire ; watch it, skim it with an Egg slice, and when it boils*, i. e. when it has done bubbling, and the smoke just begins to rise from the surface, put in the Fish: —if the Fat is not extremely hot, it is impossible to fry Fish of a good colour, or to keep them firm and crisp, (read the 3d Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery.) _ The best way to ascertain the heat of the Fat, is to try it with a bit of bread as big as a nut; if it is quite hot enough, the bread will brown immediately. Put in the Fish, and it will be crisp and brown on the side next the ae in about four or five minutes ; —fo turn 2é, . stick a two-pronged fork near the head, and support the tail with a fish-slice, and fry the other side. Fry One Sole at a time, except the pan is very large, and you have plenty of fat. When the Fish are fried, lay them on a soft cloth {old table cloths are best), near enough the fire to keep them warm; turn them every two or three minutes, till ‘they are quite dry on both sides—this, common Cooks commonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen minutest, if the Fat you fried them in was not hot enough; when it is, they want very little drying. When Soles are fried, they will keep very good na dry place for three or four days ; warm them, by hanging them on the houks ; af in a Dutch oven, letting Hen heat wery gradually, by putting tt some distance > from the fire for “about twenty minutes, or wn good Gravy, as Hels, WicGyY’s way, (Nos, 164, 299, 337, or 356.) oo: This requires a Heat of upwards of 600 degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermo- meter — FRYING is, in fact, Boiling in Fat. + If you are in haste, lay the Sole on a clean soft cloth, cover it with if, and gently press it upon the fish to suck up the fat from its ‘surface, 299 FISH. Obs.—There are several general rules in this Re- ceipt which apply to all Fried Fish :—we have been very particular and minute in our directions ;— for, although a Fried Sole is so frequent and favourite a dish, it is very seldom brought to table in perfection*. Soles to Stew. —(No. 146.) These are half fried, and then done the same. as Eels, Wiggy’s way. See (No. 164.) Fillets of Soles Brown, or White. —(No. 147.) Take off the Fillets very nicely — trim them neatly, and press them dry between a soft cloth; Egg, — Crumb, and Fry them, &c. as directed in (No. 145),— or boil Aherti, and serve them with (No. 364, No. 2.). N.B. This is one of the best ways of ‘dressing very large Soles. See also (No. 164.) Cod Boiled. —(No. 149.) Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the inside of it; (if the weather is very cold, a large cod is the better for being keptt a day:) put plenty of water in your fish-kettle, so that the fish may be well covered; put in a large handful of salt: and when it is dissolved, put in your fish; a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty minutes, after the water boils, —large ones about half an hour; drain it on the fish plate; dish it with a garnish of the Roe, Liver, Chitterlings, &c.; or large native Oysters, fried a light brown, see (No. 183*), or Smelts (No. 173), Whitings (No. 153), the taitt of the Cod cut in slices,— ‘* The very indifferent manner in which the operation of frying fish is usually performed, we suppose, produced the following jew iA 7: which appeared in The Morning Chronicle :— “‘ The King’s Bench Reports haye cook’d up an. odd dish, An action for damages, Fry versus Fish. . But sure, if for damages action could lie, It certainly must have been Fish against Fry.” nee The author of the Cook’s Cookery, 8vo. page 116, does not seem to think this fish can be too fresh; for he commences his directions. with, ‘Jf you can, get a Cod hot out of the ‘Sea, Gee *, ' ~The TAIL is so much thinner-than the thick part of the hody, that, if FISH: 293 or Split it—and fry it. Scolloped Oysters (No. 182.) Oyster Sauce (No. 278.) Mem. The Sounps,—the Jelly parts about the Jowl,—the Palate, — and the Tongue, are esteemed exquisites. by piscivorous Epicures — whose longing Eyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their favourite “‘ Bonne Bouche ;’—the Carver's reputation depends much on his equitable distribution of them. Salt Fish Boiled. —(No. 150.) Salted Fish requires Soaking, according to the time it has been in Salt ; —that which is hard and dry, requires two nights’ soaking, changing the water two or three times; the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor ;— for Barrelled Cod, less time will do;— and for the best © Dogger Bank Split Fish, which has not been more than a fortnight or three weeks in salt, still less will be needful. Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer gently till it is enough —if the water boils, the Fish will be tough and thready. For Egg sauce, see (No. 267), and to boil Red Beetroot (No. 127), Parsnips (No. 128), Carrots (No. 129.) Garnish Salt Fish mth the yolks of Eggs, cut into quarters. Obs. — Our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a dish of equal parts of Red Beetroot and Parsnips. N.B. Satrep Fisu defers wi Quality — quite as much as it does in Price. Slices of Cod Boiled. — (No. 151.) Half an Hour before you dress them, put them into cold spring water with some salt in it. ‘Lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle, with as much cold spring water as will cover them, and some . ‘salt; set it on a quick fire, and when it boils, skim it, and set it on one side of the fire to boil very cently, d together, the former will be boiled too much— before the latter is ough —therefore it should be dressed. separate, and the best way of it is to fry it in Slices or Fillets; see (No. 151.) 224 FISH. for about ten minutes, according to its size and thick- ness. Garnish with scraped Horseradish, slices of Lemon, and a slicé of the Liver on one. side, and Chitterling on the other. Oyster sauce (No. ane and Plain Butter. Obs. — Slices of Cod (especially the Tail, split,) are very good, fried like Soles (No. 145), or stewed in Gravy like Eels (No. 164), or (No. 364, No. 2.) Whitings Fried.— (No. 153.) Skir* them, preserve the liver, see (No 228), and fasten their tans to their mouths ; dip them in egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry them in hot lard, read (No. 145);—or split them, and fry them like fillets of Soles (No. 147.) A three quart stewpan, half full of fat, is the best utensil to fry whitings. They will be done enough in about five minutes—but it will sometimes require a quarter of an hour to drain the fat from them and dry them, (if the fat you put them into was not hot enough,) turning them now and then with a Fish Slice. Obs. — When Whitings are scarce, the Fishmongers can skin and truss young Codiings,—so that you can hardly tell the difference, except that a Coding wears a Beard, and a Whiting does not :— this distinguishing mark is sometimes cut off; however, if you turn up his Jowl, you may see the mark where the Beard was, and thus Aiseover whether He be a WHITING, or a Shaved af Codling. ¢ Skate Fried. — (No. 154.) After you have cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets, dry them on a clean cloth; beat the yolk and white of an egg thoroughly together, dip the fish in this,’ and then in fine bread crumbs; fry it in hot lard or ‘drip- pings till it is of a delicate brown colour; ray it ona iry theo t in tot dripping. FISH. eee hair sieve to Grain; garnish with Crisp Parsley (No. 318), —and some like Caper sauce, with an Anchovy in it. Plaice or Flounders Fried, or Boiled. — (No. 155.) Flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry very nicely. Clean them well, flour them, and wipe them with a dry cloth to absorb all the water from them; flour or egg and bread-crumb them, &c. as directed in (No. 145.) To Bort FLouNDERS. Wash and clean them well, cut the black side of them the same as you do Turbot, then put them into a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water and a handful of salt; when they come to a boil, scum them clean, and let them stand by the side of the fire for five minutes, and they are ready. Ods. — Eaten with plain melted butter and a little salt;—you have the sweet delicate flavour of the Flounder — which is overpowered by any sauce. Water Souchy* —(No. 156.) Is made with Flounders, Whiting, Gudgeons, or Fels. . These must be quite fresh, and very nicely cleaned; for what they are boiled in, is the sauce for them. Wash, gut, and trim your Fish, cut them into hand- some pieces, and put them into a stewpan with just as much water as will cover them, with some parsley, or parsley roots sliced, an onion minced fine, and a little pepper and salt: (to this some Cooks add some scraped Horseradish and a Bay leaf ;)— skim it care- fully when it boils; when your fish is done enough (which it will be in a few minutes), send it up in a deep dish, lined with bread sippets, and some slices of bread and butter on a plate. * One of my Culinary Counsellors says the heading of this Receipt should be *‘ How to drgss a good dish of Fish while the Cloth is laying.” If the articles are ready, twelve minutes will do it, with very little trouble or expense. Tor richer stewed Fish, see (No. 164.) Lo 256 Fist. Obs: Some Cooks thicken. the liquor the Fish has been stewing in with flour and butter—and flavour it with white wine, Lemon juice, Essence of Anchovy, and Catsup— and boil down two or three Flounders, &c. to make a fish broth, to boil the other fish in— observing, that the Broth cannot be good, unless i Fish are boiled too much. Haddock Boiled. — (No. 157.) Wash it well, and put it on to boil, as directed in (No. 149); a Haddock of three pounds will take about ten minutes after the kettle boils. Findhorn Haddocks. —(No. 157.*) Let the Fish be well cleaned and laid in Salt for two hours, let the water drain from them, and then simply wet them with the Pyroligneous acid, —- they may be split or not,—they are then to be hung in a dry situation for a day or two, or a week or two, if you please; —- when broiled, they have all the flavour of the Findhorn Haddock, and will keep sweet for a long time. The Pyroligneous acid, applied in the same way to Beef or Mutton, gives the fine smoke flavour, and may be kept for a considerable length of time. To stew. Cod’s Skull, Soles, Carp, Perch, Eel, or Flounder. —(No. 158); — See also (No. 164.) When the Fish has been properly washed, lay it in a stewpan, with half a pint of Claret or Port wine, and a quart of good gravy, — a large onion, a dozen berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and a few cloves, or a bit of mace; cover the fish kettle close, and let it stew gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the thickness of the fish: take the fish up, lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thicken the liquor that it was stewed in with a little flour, and season it with Pepper, Salt, Essence of Anchovy, Mushroom Catsup, and a ’ PISH. . 927 little Chili Vinegar; when’ it has boiled ten minutes, strain it through a tammis, and pour it over the fish; if there is more sauce than the dish will hold, send the rest up in a boat. Obs.— These fish are very nice plain boiled, with (No. 261), or (No. 264), for sauce ; some Cooks dredge them with flour, and fry them a light brown before. they put them on to stew —and stuff them with (No. 374), or some of the stuflings following. To Dress THEM MaIGRE. _ Put the Fish into a stewpan, with a large Onion, four Cloves, fifteen berries of Allspice, and the same black pepper —just cover them with boiling water, set it where they will simmer gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the size of the Fish; strain off the liquor in another stewpan, leaving the Fish to keep warm till the Sauce is ready. Rub together on a plate as much flour and butter as will make the Sauce as thick as a double Cream. Each Pint of Sauce, season with a glass of Wine, half as much Mushroom Catsup, a teaspoonful of Essence of Anchovy, and a few grains of Cayenne; let it boil a few minutes, put the Fish on a deep dish, strain the Gravy over it; garnish it dee Sippets of Bread toasted or fried (No. 319, ) N.B. The Editor has bid particular attention to the above Receipt—and also to (No. 224)— which Catholics, and those whose Religious tenets do not allow them to eat Meat on Maigre Days, will find a very satis- factory substitute for the Meat Gravy Soup (No. 200.) For Sauce FOR seeettag Pisnes, see (Nos. 225, 305, and 364, No. 2.) Obs. — Mushroom caiuiy (No. 439), and Onions (No. 402), supply the place of Meat, better than any thing; if you have not these, Wine ,—Spice (No.457),— Curry Powder (No. 455), — Aromatic Roots and Herbs, -—Anchovy and Soy,—-or Oyster Catsup (No. 441), 228 FISH. variously combined, and. thickened with —_ and butter, are convenient substitutes. Perch Fried. — (No. 159.) Wash the Fish well,— wipe them on a dry cloth,— flour them lightly all over, and fry them ten minutes, see (No. 145), in hot lard or drippings ;— lay them on a hair sieve to drain; send them up on a hot dish, garnished with sprigs of green parsley. Anchovy sauce “(No. 270), and (No, 433.) Perch Boiled. — (No. 160.) Clean them carefully, and put them in a fish-kettle, with as much cold spring water as will cover them, with a handful of salt; set them on a quick fire till they boil; when they boil, set them on one side to boil gently for about ten minutes, according to their size. Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackarel, &c. Pickled, (No. 161.) Cut the Fish into proper pieces—do not take off the scales—-make a brine strong enough to bear an Egg, in which boil the Fish—it must be boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it —do not overboil it. When the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to drain off all the liquor— when cold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them up with equal parts of the liquor the Salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), and best Vinegar (No. 24); let them rest for a day, fill up again, striking the sides of the kit with a Cooper's Adze until the kit will receive no more —then head them down as close as possible. Ols. — This is in the finest condition when fresh Salmon is most plentifyl, (about Midsummer); the- season for it is from February to September. Some sprigs of fresh gathered young Fennel —are the accom- paniments. N.B. The three indispensable marks of the goodness of Pickled Salmon: are, Ist, The brightness of the x FISH: 299 scales, and their sticking fast to the skin; 2dly, The firmness of the flesh; and 3dly, Its fine pale red rose colour ; — without these it-is not. fit to. eat, and was either stale before it was pickled, or has been kept too long after. The above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it for the London market. N.B. Pickled Salmon, warmed by steam, or in its pickle liquor, is a favourite dish at Newcastle. Salmon Boiled. — (No. 162.) Put on a fish kettle, with spring water, enough to well cover the Salmon you are going to dress, or the Salmon will neither look nor taste well: (boil the Liver in a separate saucepan) When the water boils, put in a handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises, have the fish well washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently about a quarter of an hour to a pound of fish; but practice only can perfect the Cook in dressing Salmon ; ;—a quarter of a split Salmon will take almost as long boiling, as half a one. Lobster Sauce (No: 284.) Obs. — The thinnest part of the Fish, is the fattest, and if you have a “‘ Grand Gourmand” at table, ask him if he is for Thick or Thin. The Thames Salmon is preferred in the London Market, and some Epicures pretend to be able to distinguish by the taste, in which reach of the River it was caught!!! N. B. If you have any left, put it into a pye-dish, and cover it with an equal portion of Vinegar and Pump- water, and a little salt, it will be ready in three days. # Fresh Salmon Broiled. — (No. 163.) Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about an inch and a half thick; dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth, rub it over with sweet oil, or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it; put your gridiron over a clear fire, at some distance ; wien it is hot, wipe it ns a FISH! clean, rub it with sweet oil or lard ; lay the salmon on; and when it is done on one side, turn it gently’ and broil the other. Anchovy'sauce, &c. _ Obs,—An Oven does them best. Soles or Eels*, &c. &c. stewed WiGGY’s way.— (No. 164.) Take two pounds of fine silver Eels ; — the best are those that are rather more than a half-crown piece in circumference, quite fresh, full of life, and as “ brisk as an Eel ;” such as have been kept out of water till they can scarce stir, are good for nothing. Gut them, rub them with salt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash them in several different waters, and divide them into pieces about four inches long. Some cooks skin them, dredge them with a little flour, and wipe them dry, and then egg and crumb them, and fry them in drippings till they are brown, and lay them to dry on a hair sieve. | Have ready a quart of good Beef Gravy (No. 329); it must be quite cold when you put the Eels into it, or the skins will crack, and the beauty of this dish consists in sending them up whole; set them on a slow fire to simmer very gently for about a quarter of an hour, according to the size of the eels ;— watch them that they are not done too much;-—take them carefully out of the stewpan with a fish slice, so as not to tear their coats, and lay them on a dish about two inches deep. Make the Sauce about as thick as cream, by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with it; and put in also two tablespoonsful of Port wine, and one of Mushroom Catsup, or Cavice; stir it into the sauce by degrees, give it a boil, and strain it to the fish through a tammis or sieve. : * Small Fish and the Fillets of Whiting, Turbots, Brills, &c. and slices of Cod, or the Head or Tail of it, are excellent dressed the same way. t The Yellow Eels taste muddy ; the whiteness of the belly of the fish,.is not the only mark to know the best; the right colour of the back is a very bright coppery hue; ‘the clive coloured are inferior; and those tending to a green are worse. FISH. Bet N.B. If Mushroom sauce (Nos. 225, 305, or 383), or White Sauce (No. 364, No. 2), be used instead of Beef gravy, this will be one of the most relishing Maigre dishes we know. Obs. — To kill Eels instantly, without the horrid tor- ture of cutting and skinning them alive, pierce the spinal marrow, close to the back part of the eeu: with.a sharp pointed'skewer: if this be done in the right place, all motion will instantly cease. The humane Executioner does certain criminals the favour to hang them, before he breaks them on the wheel. To fry Eels.— (No. 165.) Skin and gut them, and wash them, well in cold water, cut them in pieces four inches long, season them with pepper and salt, beat an egg well on a plate, dip them .in the egg, and then in fine bread crumbs; fry them in fresh clean lard, drain them well from the fat ; Garnish with crisp: parsley; ; for Sauce, plain and melted butter, sharpened with lemon juice, or Parsley, and Butter. Mackarel Boiled. —(No. 167.) This Fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the Sea, and the fresher it is, the better. Wash and clean them thoroughly, (the fishmongers seldom do this sufficiently), put them into cold water with a handful of salt in it; let them rather simmer, than boil; a small mackarel will be enough in about a quarter of an hour: when the Eye starts and the Tail splits, —they are done; do not let them stand in the water a moment after; they are so delicate that the heat of the water will break them. This fish in London is rarely fresh enough to appear at table in perfection; and either the Mackarel is boiled too much, or the Roe* too little. The best way is to anon a slit opposite the middle of the roe, you can then * The ROE of the Male fish is sof¢ like the brains of a Calf, —that of the female is full of small eggs, and called hard Roe. eo) FISH. clean it properly ; this will allow the water access, and the roe will then be done as soon as the fish, which it seldom is otherwise; some sagacious gourmands insist upon it they must be taken out and boiled separately. For sauce, see (Nos. 263, 265, and 266), and you may garnish them with pats of minced Fennel. N.B. The common notion is, that Mackarel are in best condition when fullest of Roe ; — however, the Fish at that time is only valuable for its hoe, — the Meat of it has scarcely any flavour. After they have let go their Roes, they are called | shotten mackarel, and are not worth catching, the Roe, which was all that was good of them, being gone. It is in the early season, when they have least Roe, that. the flesh of this Fish 1s in highest perfection. There is also an after-season, when a few fine large Mackarel are taken, (i. e. during the Herring season, about October), which some piscivorous Epicures are very partial to, — these fish having had time to fatten and recover their Health, are full of high flavour, and their flesh is firm and juicy; they are commonly called Sz/ver Mackarel from their beautiful appearance, their colour being almost as bright when boiled, as it was the moment they were caught. Mackarel Broiled. — (No. 169.) Clean a fine large mackarel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and cut a long slit down the back; lay it on a clean gridiron, over a very clear slow fire; when it is done on one side turn it; be careful that it does not burn; send it up with Fennel sauce (No. 265), mix well together a little finely minced Fennel and Parsley seasoned with a little Pepper and Salt, a bit of fresh butter, and when the Mackarel are ready for the table, put some of this into each fish. Mackarel Baked. — (No. 170.) Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the FISH. 233 roes, and clean them thoroughly; rub them on the inside with a little pepper and salt, put the roes in again, season them (with a mixture of powdered allspice, black pepper and salt, well rubbed together), and lay them close in.a baking pan, cover them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie them down with strong white paper doubled, and bake them for an hour in a slow oven. They will keep for a fortnight. Pickled Mackarel, Herring, or Sprats.—(No. 171.) Procure them as fresh as possible, split them open, take off the heads, and trim off all the thin part of the belly, put them into salt and water for one hour, drain and wipe your fish, and put them into jars or casks, with the following preparation, which is enough for three dozen Mackarel. Take salt and bay salt, one pound each, saltpetre and lump sugar, two ounces each; grind and pound the salt, &c. well together, put the fish into jars or casks, with a layer of the preparation at the bottom, then a layer of mackarel with the skin side downwards; so continue alternately till the cask or jar is full; press it down and cover it close. In about three months they will be fit for use. Sprats Broiled.—(No. 170.*)— Fried, see (No. 172.) If you have not a Sprat Gridiron, get a piece of pointed iron wire as tnick as packthread, and as long as your gridiron is broad; run this through the heads of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour and salt over them, — put your gridiron over a clear quick fire, turn them in about a couple of minutes; when the other side is brown, draw out the wire, and send up the fish with melted butter in a cup. Obs. — That Sprats are young Herrings, is evident by their anatomy, in which there is no perceptible | difference. They appear very soon after the Herrings are gone, and seem to be the spawn just vivified. Sprats Stewed.—(No. 170.**) Wash and dry your Sprats, and Jay them as level as 234 FISH. you can in a stewpan, and between every layer of sprats put: three Peppercorns, and as many allspice, with a few grains of salt; barely cover them with Vinegar, and stew them one hour over a slow fire; they must not boil; a Bay Leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or Mackarel may be stewed the same way. To Fry Sprats, see (No. 173.) Herrings Broiled. —(No. 171.*) Wash them well, then dry them with a cloth, dust them with flour, and broil them over a slow fire till they are well done. Send up melted butter in a boat. Obs.—-For a varticular account of Herrings, see Soitas Dopps’ Natural Hist. of Herrings, in 178 pages 8vo. 1752. | Rep Herrines; and other Driup Frsu—(No. 172.) «« Should be cooked in the same manner now practised by the Poor in Scotland. They soak them in water until they become pretty fresh; they are then hung up in the Sun and Wind, on a stick, through their Eyes, to dry; and then boiled or broiled. In this way, they eat almost as well as if they were new caught.’—See the Hon. Jonn Cocuorane’s Seaman's Guide, 8vo. 1797, . 34, ae Scotch Haddocks should be soaked all night. You may boil or broil them; if you broil, split them in two. ‘* All the different sorts of Dried Fish, except Stock Fish, — are salted, dried in the Sun, in prepared kilns, or by the smoke of wood fires ; and require to be softened and freshened, in proportion to their bulk, nature, or dryness; the very dry sort, as Cod, Whiting, é&c. should be steeped in lukewarm water, kept as near as possible to an equal degree of Heat. The larger Fish should be steeped twelve hours; the smaller about two; after which they should be taken out and hung up by the tails until they are dressed. The reason for hanging them up is, that they soften equally as in the steeping, without extracting too much of the relish, which would render them insipid. When thus pre- FISH. 235 pared, the small Fish, as Whiting, Tusk, &c. should: be floured and. laid on the gridiron; and when a little hardened on one side, must be turned and basted with sweet oil upon a feather; and when basted on both sides, and well heated through, taken up. A clear charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, and the Fish should be kept at a good distance, to broil gradually. When they are enough they will swell a little in the basting, and you must not let them fall again. Jf boiled, as the larger fish generally are, they should be kept just simmering over an equal fire; in which way half an hour will do the largest fish, and five minutes the smallest. “* Dried Salmon, though a large Fish, does not require more steeping than a Whiting; and when laid on the eridiron should be moderately peppered: To Herring and to all kinds of broiled Salt Fish, sweet oil is the best basting.” The above is from Macponaxp’s London Family Cook, 8vo. 1808, p. 139. Smelts, Sprats, or other small Fish Fried.—(No. 173.) Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain, or beat an egg on a plate, dip them in it, and then in fine bread crumbs that have been rubbed through a sieve; fry them in plenty of clean lard, or drippings; as soon as the lard boils and is still, put in the fish,—as soon as they are delicately browned, they are done; this will hardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair sieve, placed before the fire, turning them till quite dry. Obs. — Read (No. 145.) Potted Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fish. —(No. 175.) Boil them in water, with plenty of Salt in it. When you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and salt; add alittle cold butter, and pound all well together 936 FISH. in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it into pots covered with clarified butter, and cover them over with wetted bladder. Lobster. — (No. 176.) Buy these Alive,—the Lobster-Merchants sometimes keep them till they are starved, before they boil them ; they are then watery, and have not half their flavour. Choose those that (as an old Cook says, are “‘ Heavy and Lively,” and) are full of motion, which is the index of their freshness. Those of the middle size are the best. Never take them when the Shell is incrusted, which is a sign they are old. The Male Lobster is preferred to Eat, and the Female (on account of the Eggs) to make ‘Sauce of. The Hen Lobster is distinguished, by having a broader ‘Tail than the male, and less Claws. Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water; — when the water boils put itin, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to an hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub the shell with a very little butter or sweet oil; break off the great claws, crack them care- fully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For Sauce (No. 285.) To pot Lobster (No. 178) * These Fish come in about April, and continue plen- tiful till the Oyster season returns. Crab. — (No. 177.) " The above observations apply to Crabs, which should neither be too small nor too large. The best size are those which measure about eight inches across the shoulders. ©” Crabs make their appearance and disappearance about the same time as Lobsters. The Cromer Crabs are most esteemed, but numbers are brought from the Isle of Wight. FISH: 237 Potted Lobster or Crab. —(No. 178.) This must be made with fine Hen Lobsters when full of spawn, boil them thoroughly, see (No. 176); when cold pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mortar, it is usual to add by degrees (a very little) finely pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while pounding, a little butter. When the whole is well mixed, and beat to the consistence of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pour clarified butter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder. Obs.—Some pot Lobster without pounding it, and only eut it or pull it into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, and mince it with the spawn and soft parts and seasoning, and press it together as close as possible; in packing it place the coral and spawn, &c. in layers, so that it may look regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it as store, see N.B. to (No. 284) to make Sauce with, this is the best way to do it — but if for Sandwiches, &c. the first is the best, and will keep much longer. BurrerepD Lossters and Crass are favourite orna- mental dishes with those who deck their table to please the eye. Our apology for not giving the Receipt will be found in Obs. to (No. 322.) ? OYSTERS *. — (No. 181.) ‘The common + Colchester and Feversham oysters are brought to market on the 5th of August; — the Milton, or as they are commonly called, the melting Nativest, do not come in till the bésinning of October, * Oyster Sauce (No. 278), Preserved Oysters (No. 280.) t+ Those are called Common Oysters which are picked up on the French coast, and laid in the Colchester beds. These are never so fine and fat as the NATIVES, and seldom recover the shock their feelings receive, from being iransported from their native place ;— delicate little Creatures, they are as exquisite in their own tasie, as they are to the taste of others!! jOysters are thus called, that are born, as well as bred and fed in this country, and are mostly spit inthe Burnham and Mersey rivers; they de not come to their finest condition till they are near four years oid. 238 FISH. continue in season till the 12thof May, and approach the meridian.of their perfection about Christmas. Some. piscivorous Gourmands think that Oysters. are not best. when quite fresh from. their beds, and that their flavour is too brackish and harsh, and is: much ameliorated by giving them a feed. To Frep* Oysters.—Cover them. with clean water, with a pint of salt to about two-gallons; (nothing else, no.oatmeal, flour, nor any other trumpery);, this will cleanse them from the mud and sand, &c. of the bed; after they, have. lain in it twelve hours, change it. for fresh salt. and water, and in twelve hours more they will be in prime order for the Mouth, andiremain:so two or three days :— at the time of high water, you may see them open their shells, in expectation of receiving their usual food.. This process of feeding oysters, is only employed when a great.many come up together. The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are packed at the beds, are better without being put:in water ; they are carefully and tightly packed, and must not. be disturbed till. wanted for table: these, in: mo- derate weather, will keep good for a week, or ten days. If,an Oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies immediately. To preserve the lives of Barrelled Oysters, put a heavy weight on the wooden top of the barrel; which is to be placed on the surface of the oysters. This is to be | effected by removing the first hoop, the staves will then spread and stand erect, making a wide opening for the head of the barrel to fall down closely on the remaining fish, keeping them close together. Obs.— Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening Oysters, and the time of eating them after they are opened; nothing, however, is more important, in the enlightened eyes of the experienced Oyster eater. * WILL RABIsHA, in his Receipt to “ broil oysters,” (see his Cookery, page 144), directs, that while they are undergoing this operation, they should be fed with white wine and grated bread. FISH. 239 Those who: wish to enjoy this delicious: restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment tt 2s opened, with its own gravy in the under shell: —if not. Eaten while absolutely Alive, its flavour and spirit is lost. The true lover of an Oyster, will have some regard for the feelings of his little favourite, and will never abandon it to the mercy of a bungling operator, — but will open it himself, and contrive to detach the Fish from the shell so dexterously, that the Oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from his Lodging, till he feels the Teeth of the piscivorous Gourmand tickling him to Death. N.B. Fish is less nutritious than Flesh: as a proof, when the trainer of Newmarket wishes to wastea Jockey, he is not allowed Meat, not even Pudding, if Fish can be had. The white kinds of Fish, Turbots, Soles, Whiting, Cod, Haddock, Flounders, Smelts, &c. are less nutritious than the oily fat Fish, such as. Eels, Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, &c.; the latter, however, are more difficult to digest, and often disturb weak sto- machs, so that they are obliged to call in the assistance of Cayenne, Cogniac, &c. SHELL Fisu, have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easily digestible and speedily restorative foods; of these, the Oyster certainly deserves the best character, — but, we think it has acquired not a. little more reputation for these qualities than it deserves ; a well dressed Chop * or Steak, see (No. 94), will invi- gorate the Heart in a much higher ratio; and to recruit the Animal Spirits and support strength, there is nothing equal to Animal food, — when kept till properly tender, none will give so little trouble to the Digestive organs, * Animal food, being composed of the most nutritious parts of the food on which the Animal lived, and haying already been digested by the proper organs of an animal, requires only solution and mixture, whereas Vegetable food must be converted into a substance of an animal nature, by the proper action of our own Viscera, and consequently, requires.more Jabour of the Stomach, and other Digestive Organs.” Berton on the Non-naturals, page 213, 240 - FISH. and so much substantial excitement to the Constitution. See note under (No. 185. *) We could easily say as much in praise of Mutton, as Mr. Ritson has against it, in his “ Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food as a Moral Duty,” 8vo. London, 1802, page 102. He says, ‘“* The Pagan Priests were the first eaters of Animal Food ; it corrupted their taste, and so excited them to Gluttony, that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly, their /waurious Appetites called for Variety. — He who had devoured the Sheep longed to masticate the Shepherd!!! “ Nature seems to have provided other Animals for the food of man, from the astonishing increase of those which instinct points out to him as peculiarly desirable for that purpose. For instance; so quick is the produce of Pigeons, that in the space of four years 14,760 may come from a single pair; and in the like period 1,274,840 from a couple of rabbits, — this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the melt of a cod fish.” Scolloped Oysters. —(No. 182.) — A good way to. warm up any cold Fish. ) Stew the Oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes, — take them out with a spoon, and beard them, and ‘skim the liquor, — put a bit of butter into. a stewpan, — and when it is melted, add as much fine bread crumbs as will dry it up, then put to it the Oyster liquor, and give it a boil up, — put the Oysters into Scallop shells that you-have buttered, and stewed with bread crumbs, — then a layer of Oysters, — then of bread crumbs, and then some more Oysters,—moisten it with the Oyster liquor, cover them with bread crumbs, — put about half a dozen little bits of butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven. Obs.——Essence of Anchovy, Catsup, Cayenne, grated Lemon Peel, Mace, and other Spices, &c. are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavour of the Oyster. FISH. 241 Surimes may be dressed the same way. N.B. Small Scollop shells, or Saucers that hold about half a dozen Oysters, are the most convenient. Stewed Oysters. —(No. 182. *) Large Oysters will do for stewing, and by some are preferred ; but we love the plump, juicy natives. Stew a couple of dozen of these in a saucepan with their own liquor ; when they are coming to a boil, skim well, take them up and beard them ; strain the liquor through a -tammis sieve, and lay the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of butter into a stewpan,—when it is melted, put to it. as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the Oysters, and three tablespoonsful of milk. or cream, and a little white pepper and salt; to this some Cooks add a little Catsup or finely chopped Parsley, grated Lemon Peel, and juice; let it boil up fora couple of minutes, till it is smooth, then take it off the fire, put in the Oysters, and let them get warm; (they must not themselves be boiled, or they will become hard ;) line the bottom and. sides of a hash-dish with bread sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce into it. See Obs. to Receipt (No. 278.) Oysters Fried. —(No, 183.) The largest and finest Oysters are to be chosen for this purpose; simmer them in their own liquor for about five minutes, —take them out and lay them on a cloth to-drain,— beard them and then flour them, — egg and bread-crumb them, — put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown. | Obs. — A very nice gatnish for Made Dishes, Biawbs Rump Steaks, boiled or fried Fish, &c. M THE. COOK’S ORACLE: BROTHS,:-GRAVIES, AND:SOUPS. Beef Broth*.— (No. 185.) Wasu a Leg or a Shin of Beef very clean, crack the bone in two or three places, (this you should ‘desire the Butcher to do for you,) add thereto any trimming’s you have of Meat, Game, or Poultry, (2. e. heads, necks, gizzards, feet, &c.) and cover them with cold water,— watch and stir it up well from the bottom, and the moment it begins to simmer, skum it carefully—your Broth must be perfectly clear and limpid ;— on this, depends the goodness of the Soups, Sauces, and Gravies, of which tt is the Basis: — then add some cold water, to make ‘the remaining scum rise, and:skim it again; — when the scum has done rising, andthe surface of the Broth is quite clear, put in one-moderate-sized Carrot, a head of Celery, two Turnips, and two Onions, ——it should not have any taste of sweet herbs, spice, or garlic, -&c.—either of these flavours can be easily imme- diately added after, if'desired, by (Nos. 420, 421, 402, ‘&c.)— cover it close, —set it by the side of the fire,— -and let it simmer very gently (so as not to waste the ‘Broth) for four or five hours,'or more, according to the weight of the Meat: —strain’it through a sieve into a clean and dry-stone pan, and set it in the coldest place you have. | | Obs. — This is the foundation for all sorts of Soups and Sauces, brown or white. Stew no longer than the Meat is thoroughly done to eat, * In culinary technicals, is called FIRST sTOCK, or long Broth—in the French Kitchen, ** Le Grand Bowillon.” BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 243 -and you will obtain excellent Broth, without depriving the Meat of its nutritious succulence:— to boil it to rags, as is the common practice, will not enrich your Broths, but make them thick and grouty. The Meat*, when gently stewed for only four or five hours till it is just tender, remains abundantly sapid and nourishing, and will afford a relishing and whole- some meal for half a dozen people;— or make Potted Beef, (No. 503):—or, when you have strained off the Broth, — cover the meat again with water, and let it go on boiling for four hours longer, and make what some Cooks call “ Seconp Srocx,’— it will produce some very good Glaze, or PorraBLe Soup; see (No. 252) and the Obs. thereon. Beef Gravy +.— (No. 186.) Cover the bottom of a Stewpan, that is well tinned and quite clean, with a slice of good Ham or lean Bacon, four or five pounds of Gravy Beef cut into half- pound pieces, a Carrot, an Onion with two Cloves ‘stuck in it, and a head of Celery; put a pint of Broth or water to it, cover it close, and set it over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to as little as will just save the ingredients from burning; then turn it all about, and let it brown slightly and equally all over ;—then ‘put in three quarts of boiling water{; when it boils up, * A dog was fed on the richest Broth, yet could not be kept alive; while another, which had only the Meat boiled to a Chip, (and water,) throve very well. This shows the folly of attempting to nourish Men by Concentrated Soups, Jellies, &.— SincLair, Code of Health, p. 356. If this experiment be accurate, what becomes of the theoretic visions of those who have written about nourishing Broths, &c.? — The best test of the restorative quality of Food, is a small quantity of it satisfying hunger, the strength of the pulse after it, and the length of time which elapses before appetite returns again. According to this rule, we give our verdict in favour ‘of (No. 19 or 24.) See N.B. to (No. 181.) This subject is fully discussed in ‘‘.THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE, BY DixET, &c.” published by Hurst and Co., No. 90, Cheapside, London; and ConsTaBLE and Co., Edinburgh. ‘+, Called in some Cookery Books, ‘‘ Srconp STOcK,’”—in the French Kitchen, ‘*‘ Jus de Beuf.” { A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of putting in the -water, —if it is poured in too soon, the Gravy will not have its true fiaveur and colour ;—and if it be let alone till the Meat sticks to the pan, it will get a burnt taste. " mM 2 244 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. skim it carefully, and wipe off with a clean cloth what sticks round the edge and inside of the stewpan, that your gravy may be delicately clean and clear. Set it by the side of a fire, where it will stew gently (to keep it clear, and that it-may not be reduced too much) for about four hours : —if it has not boiled too fast, there should be two quarts of good gravy; strain through a silk or tammis sieve; take very Sani S care to skim it well, and. set it in a cold place. M Strong Savoury Gravy — (No. 188), — alas “ Brown Sauce,” alias ‘ Granp EsPpaGnou.” Take a Stewpan that will hold four quarts, lay a Slice or two of Ham or Bacon (about a quarter of an inch thick) at the bottom, (undressed is the best,) and two pounds of Beef, or Veal, a Carrot, a large Onion, with four Cloves stuck in it, one head of Celery, a bundle of Parsley, Lemon-thyme, and Savoury, about as big round as your little finger when tied close, a few leaves of sweet Basil, (one Bay-leaf, and a Shallot, if you like it,) a piece of Lemon-peel, and a dozen corns of Allspice*: pour on this half a pint of water, cover it close, and let it simmer gently on a slow fire for half an hour, in which time it will be almost dry; watch it very carefully, and let it catch a nice brown colour, —turn the Meat, &c., let it brown on all sides; add three pints of boiling. watert, and boil for a - couple of hours. Jt is now Rich Gravy. To convert it into as . Cullis, or Thickened Gravy. — (No. 189.) To a quart of Gravy, put a tablespoonful of Thick- ening (No. 257), or from one to two tablespoonsful of Flour, according to the thickness you wish the Gravy to be, into a basin, with a ladleful of the Gravy; stir it quick;—add the rest by degrees, till it is all well * Truffles, Morells and Mushrooms, Catsups and Wines, &c. are added by those who are for the extreme of Haut Gott. t The general rule is to put in about a Pint of water to a pound of meat, if it only simmers very gently. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 245° mixed ; ‘then pour it back into a stewpan, aa leave it by the side of the fire to simmer for half an hour longer, that the Thickening may thoroughly icor- porate with the Gravy, the. stewpan being only half covered, stirring it every now and then;—a sort of scum will gather on the top, which it is best not to take off till you are aes to strain it through a Tammis*. Take care it is neither too pale nor too dark a colour; if a 2s not Thick enough, let it stew longer, till it is Feed to the desired thickness; or add a bit of glaze or Portable Soup to it, see (No. 252): af zt 2s too Thick, you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two of warm broth, or water. When your sauce is done, stir it in the basin you put it into once or twice, while it is cooling. Veal Broth. —(No. 191.) A Knuckle of Veal is best; manage it as directed in the receipt for Beef Broth (No. 185*), only take care not to let it catch any colour, as this and the followit and richer preparation of Veal, is chiefly used for White Soups, Sauces, &c. - To make White Sauce, see (No. 364.*) Veal Gravy. —(No. 192.) About three pounds of the nut of the Leg of Veal, cut into half pound slices, with a quarter of a pound of Ham in small dice; proceed as directed for the Beef Gravy (No. 186), but watch the time of putting in the water; if this is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have its true flavour, —if it be let aldne till the meat sticks too much to the pan, it will catch too brown a Colour. * A Tammis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oi] shops, made on purpose for straining sauces ; the best way of using it is for two people to twist it contrary ways: this isa much better way of straining sauce than through a Sieve, and refines if much more completely.’ 246 BROTHS, GRAVIES; AND SOUPS. - Knuckle of Veax, or Shin or Leg of Brzr, Soup. ‘. (No. 193.) A Knuckle of Veal, of six pounds weight, will make a large tureen of excellent Soup, and is thus easily. prepared : —Cut half a pound of Bacon into slices’ about half an inch thick, lay it at the bottom of a soup kettle, or deep stewpan, and on this place the knuckle of veal, having first chopped the bone in two or three places,—furnish it with two carrots, two turnips, a head of celery, two large onions, with two or three cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen corns of Black, and the same of Jamaica pepper, and a good bundle of lemon-thyme, winter savory, and parsley. — Just cover the meat with cold water, and set it over a quick fire till it boils; having skimmed it well, remove your. soup kettle to the side of the fire, let it stew very gently till it is quite tender, z. e. about four hours; then take out the bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set it by in a cool place till you want it, when you must take off the fat from the surface of your liquor, and decant. it (keeping back the settlings at the bottom) into a clean: pant ae : If you like a Tu1ckenEpD Soup, put three table- spoonsful of the fat you have taken off the soup, into a small stewpan, and mix it with four tablespoonsful of flour, pour a ladleful of soup to it, and mix it with the rest by degrees, and boil it up till it is smooth. Cut the Meat and Gristle of the Knuckle and the Bacon into mouthfuls, and put them into: the Soup, and let them get warm. Obs.— You may make this more savoury by adding _ Catsup (No. 439), &c. Suin or Brrr may be dressed: in the same way; see KnuckKtE or VEAL stewed with Rice (No. 523.) Mutton Broth. —(No. 194.) Take two pounds of Scrag of Mutton; to tale the BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 947 blood out, put it into a Stewpan, and cover it with cold water ; when the water becomes milk-warm, pour it off, skim it well, then put it in again, with four or five pints of water, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of best grits, and an Onion; set it on a slow fire, and when you have: taken all the scum off, put in two or three turnips, let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and strain it through a clean sieve, This usual method of making Mutton Broth with the Scrag, is by no» means the most Economical method of obtaining it; for which see (Nos. 490 and 564.) Obs. — You may THICKEN Brorn, by boiling with ita little Oatmeal,— Rice, — Scotch, or Pearl Barley ; when you make. it for a Sick person, read the Obs. on Broths, &c. in the last page of the 7th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery ; and (No. 564.) ane Mutton Broth, without. Meat, in Five Minutes. ; (No. 195.) | ‘Boil a few leaves of Parsley with two teaspoa of Mushroom* Catsup, in three quarters of @ pil very thin Gruel (No. 572.) Season with alittle salt. Obs.—This is improved by a few drops of Shallot Wine (No. 402),. and, the same of Essence of Sweet Herbs (No. 419.) See also PortaBie Soup (No. 252.) The Queen’s morning “ Bouillon de Santé.” (No. 196.) Sir Kenelm Digby, in his ‘‘ Closet of Cookery,” page 149, London, 1669, informs us, was made with “a brawny Hen, or young Cock, a handful of parsley, one sprig of.thyme, three of spearmint, a little balm, half a great. onion, alittle pepper and salt, and a clove, with * By this method, it. is said, an ingenious Cook long: deceived a large family, who were all fond of weak mutton broth. — Mushroom Gravy, or Catsup (No. 439), approaches the nature and flavour of wleat Gravy, more than any Vegetable Juice, and is the. best substitute for it in Meagre Soups and extempore Sauces, that Culinary Chemistry has yet produced. 248 _ BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. as much water as will cover them: and this. boiled to . eke ‘than’ a Pint, for one good porrengérfal,”: WE Psciecha Myr he aR 3 Ox-heel Jelly. —(No. 198. Mg yey 2 nie ovis Slit. them in two, and take away the fat between. thes claws. The proportion of water to each Heél is about a quart; —letit simmer gently for eight hours, (keeping it clean skimmed) it will make a pintvand. ai half of: strong Jelly, which is frequently used to:make Calves’ feet Jelly (No. 481), or to add to: Mock Turtle, and’. other Soups. See (No.'240.*) This Jelly-evaporated» as directed in No. 252, will give about three ounces and a half of strong Glaze; —an unboiled: Heel’ costs one’ shilling and three pence; so this glaze, which is very» inferior in flavour to No. 252, is quite as ‘expensive! as. that is. en Bias: tt b N.B. To dress the Heels» see (No. 18. a Obs.—- Get a Heel that has only been scalded, not one of those usually sold at the Tripe shops, which have been bod/ed till almost all the Gelatine is extracted. Pristine awd Sours: — (No. 200.) ' Cut half a pound of Ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom of a large stewpan, or stockpot, with two or three pounds of lean Beef, and as much Veaby— — break the bones and lay them on the meat, take off the outer skin of two large Onions, and two Turnips, wash, clean and cut into pieces a couple of large Carrots, and two heads of Celery; and put in three Cloves and a large blade of Mace: — cover the stewpan close, and set it? over a smart fire;— when the meat begins to stick to the bottom of the stewpan, turn ‘it, and when there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of the stewpan, cover the meat with hot water: — watch it, and when it is coming to a boil, put in half a pint of cold water, take off the scum, then put in half a pint more cold water, and skim it again, and continue to do so BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 249 till no more scum rises. -— Now set it on one side of the fire, to boil gently for about four hours,—strain it through a clean tammis, or napkin, (do not squeeze it, or the Soup will be thick), into a clean Stone pan, let it remain till it is cold, and then remove all the Fat ;— when you decant it, be careful not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the pan. The Broth should be of a fine Amber colour, and as clear as Rock Water ; — if it is not so bright as you wish it, put it into a stewpan, — break two whites and shells of Eggs into a basin, beat them well together, put them into the Soup, set itona quick fire, and stir it with a whisk till it boils, — then set it on one side of the fire, to settle for ten minutes, run it through a fine napkin into a basin, and it is ready. However, if your Broth 1s carefully skimmed, &c. ac- cording to the directions above given, it will be clear enough without clarifying, which process impairs the flavour of it, —in a higher proportion than it es its appearance. SS Obs. — This is the Basis of almost all Gravy Soups, which are called by the name of the vegetables that are put into them. Carrots,—TurRwNsPs,—Onions,— CELERY, — and a few leaves of Chervil, make what is called Serine Soup, or Soup Sanrtf#; to this a pint of Green Peasz, or ASPARAGUS PEase, or French Beans cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, are an improvement. With Rice, — or Scotcu BARLEY, — with Macca- RONI,— or VERMICELLI,—or CELERY, — cut into lengths ; it will be the Soup usually called by those names. Or Turnips scooped round, or young Onions, will give you a clear Turnip, or Onton Soup, and all these vegetables mixed together, Soup Cressi, Tue Gravy for all these Soups may be produced extempore with (No. 252.) The Roots and Vegetables you use, must be boiled MS 250 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS: first, or they will impregnate ae soup with too ee a flavour. . The Seasoning for all these rey is. the same, viz. Salt, and a very little Cayenne pepper. N. B. To make excellent Vegetable Gracy Soup: for 43d. a quart, see (No. 224.) Scotcu BarLey Brotu,—d Good iu Substantial Dinner for 6d. per Head. —(No. 204.) Wash three quarters of a pound of Scotch Barley in a little cold water, put it in a soup pot with a Shin or Leg of Beef, or a Knuckle of Veal of about ten pounds weight, sawed into four pieces, (tell the Butcher to do this for you), cover it well with cold water, set it on the fire; when it Boils skim it very clean and put in two Onions of about three ounces weight each, set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently about two hours ; then skim all the fat clean off, and put in two heads of Celery, and a large Turnip cut into small squares, season it with salt, and let it boil an hour and a half longer, and it is ready : : take out the meat (carefully with a slice, and cover it up and set it by the fire to keep warm) and scum the Broth well before you put it in the Tureen. ; S. d, Shin of Beef of 10Ib ccvceccsccvscce 2 6 4 0 $ pound of Barleysceccecacccssses O 43 2 Onions of about 3 oz. weight each O 0% Celery Coeeccosacvenerensseeenees 01 A large Turnip cccsccccccees cover O 1 3 1 Thus you get four quarts of Good Soup, at 914d. per Quart, besides another quart to make sauce for the Meat, in the following manner :— Put a quart of the Soup into a basin,—put about an ounce of Flour into a stewpan, and pour the Broth to it by degrees, stirring it well together, set it on the fire and stir it till it boils, — then (some put in a glass of Port wine or Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), let it boil up, and it is ready. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 251 Putithe Meat in a Ragout dish, and strain the Sauce through a sieve over the Meat, you may put to it some Capers, or minced Gherkins or Walnuts, &c. If the Beef has been stewed with proper care in a very gentle manner, and be taken up at “ the critical moment when it is just tender,” you will obtain excellent and Savoury Meat for eight People for Five Pence, 2. e. for only the cost of'the glass of Port wine. If you use Vea, cover the Meat with (No. 364, No. 2) Lie viola s. d SOUP ecvecsecsesese 3 1 Wine’. cece eesccecee O ‘e 3.6 Obs.—This is: a most Frugal, — Agreeable, — and Nutritive Meal, — it will neither lighten the Purse, nor lay heavy on the Stomach, and will furnish a plentiful and. pleasant Soup and Meat for eight persons. So You may give a good’ Dinner for 5d. per Head. See also (No. 229) and (No. 239.) N.B. If you will draw your Purse strings a little wider, — and allow ld. per Head more, — and prepare a pint of young Onions as directed in (No. 296), and garnish the dish with them, or some Carrots, or Turnips cut into squares,— for 6d. per Head you will have as good a Racour as “ le Cuisinier Impérial de France” can give you for as many shillings. Read Oss. to (No. 493.) You may vary the flavour by adding a little Curry Powder (No. 455), Ragout (No. 457, &c.) or any. of the Store Sauces, and Flavouring Essences, between (Nos. 396 and 463), and you may garnish the dish with split pickled Mangoes, Walnuts, Gherkins, Onions, &c. See Wow. Wow Sauce (No. 328.) ~ If, it is made the evening before the Soup is wanted, and suffered to stand till it is cold, much Fat* may be *See “ L’Art de Cuisinier,” par A. Beauvillier, Paris, 1814, page 68. “* T have learned by experience, that of all the fats that: are used for frying, that the Pot Top which is taken from the surface of the Broth and Stock-Pot is by far the best.” ’ 252 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. removed from the surface of the Soup; which ‘is* ex- tremely delicate; and when clarified (No. 83), useful: for me the purposes that Drippings are oe to. Scotch Leek Soup. — (No. 205.) You may make this Soup to most’ adventeat the day after a joint of Meat has been boiled, by putting the. liquor the meat has been boiled in, into a soup pot, with four large Leeks cut into pieces. an inch long, and a little pepper and salt; let it boil slowly for an hour, then mix a quarter of a ‘pound of Oatmeal with half a pint of ~ cold water, till it is quite smooth; pour this into the soup, let it simmer gently half an hour longer, and send it up hot. CrowpiE. — (No. 205. *) “« This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with the liquor meat has been boiled in. « Put halfa pint of Oatmeal into a porringer with a little salt, if there be not enough in the broth,—of which, Bad as much as will mix it to the esttareee of hasty-pudding, or a little thicker, — lastly, take a little of the fat that swims on the broth, and put it on the Crowdie, and eat it in the same way as hasty-pudding.” Obs. — This Scotsman’s dish, is easily prepared, at very little expense, and is pleasant tasted and nu- tritious. To dress a Hacetzs, see (No. 488%), and. Mrincrep CoLiors following it. From ‘‘ Melroe’s Cookery,” page 37. N.B. For various methods of making and Basenting OaTMEAL GRUEL, see (No, 572.) - Carrot Soup, —(No. 212.) Scrape and wash half a dozen large Carrots, peel off the red outside (which is the only part that should be used for this soup); put it into a gallon stewpan, with one head of Celery, and an Onion, cut into thin pieces ; take two quarts of Beef, Veal, or Mutton broth, or if you have any cold Roast Beef Bones, (or liquor, in which BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 253 _’ Mutton or Beef has been boiled), you may make very. good broth for this soup;— when you have put the broth to the roots, cover the stewpan close, and set it on a slow stove for two hours and a half, when the Carrots will be soft enough, (some Cooks put in a Tea- cupful of Bread-crumbs, boil for two or three minutes), rub it through a tammis, or hair sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as much broth as will make it a proper thickness, 2. ec. almost as thick as pease soup: put it into a clean stewpan, make it hot, season it with a little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread cut into pieces, half an inch square. Some put it into the soup; but the best way is to send it up on a plate, as a side dish... : | Obs.— This is neither expensive nor troublesome to prepare; — in the Kitchens of some opulent Epicures, to make this Soup make a little stronger impression on the gustatory Organs of “Grands Gourmands,” the Celery and Onions are sliced, and fried in Butter of a light brown, the Soup is poured into the Stewpan to them, and all is boiled up together: — but this must be done very carefully with Butter or very nicely clarified fat; and the ‘‘ Grund Cuzsinier” adds spices, &c. ‘‘ ad libitum.” Turnip and Parsnip Soups — (No. 213.) Are made in the same manner as the Carrot soup (No. 212.) Celery Soup. — (No. 214.) Split half a dozen heads of Celery into slips about two inches long, wash them well, lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and put them into three quarts of (No. 200) in a gallon soup-pot; set it by the side of the fire, to stew very gently till the celery is tender; (this will take about an hour.) If any scum rises, take it off, season with a little salt. Obs. —When Celery cannot be procured, Half a Drachm of the Seed, pounded fine, which may be con- 254 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS, sidered as the Essence of Celery, and costs only one- third of a farthing, and can be had at any season, put in a quarter of an hour before the soup is done, will give as much flavour to half a gallon of Soup, as two heads of Celery weighing seven ounces and costing’ 2d. 5 3 or add a little Essence of Celery (No. 409. ) eae YD Green Pease Soup. — (No. 216.) A peck of Pease will make you a good tureen’ of Soup,—in shelling them put the old ones in one Basin, and the young ones in another, — and keep out a pint of them, and boil them separately to put into your Soup when it is finished; put a large saucepan on the fire half full of water, _—when it boils, put the Pease in, with a handful of salt; let them boil till they are done enough, 7. e. from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size, then drain them in a cullender, and put them into a clean gallon stewpan, and three quarts of plain Veal or Mutton broth (drawn from meat without any Spices or Herbs, &c. which would over- power the flavour of the Soup), cover the stewpan:close, and set it over a slow fire, to stew gently for an hours add a teacupful of bread-crumbs, and then rub it through a tammis into another stewpan, stir it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little more broth ; have ready boiled, as for eating, a pint of young pease, and put them into the soup; season with a little salt and sugar. N.B. Some Cooks, while this Soup is going on, slice a couple of Cucumbers, (as you would for eating); take out the seeds, lay them on a cloth to drain, and then flour them, and fry them a light brown in a little butter ; put them into the soup the last thing before it goes to table. Obs. —If the Soup is not Green enough, pound a handful of Pea-hulls or Spinage, and squeeze the juice through.a cloth into the soup; some leaves of mint may be added, if approved. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 255 Plain Green Pease Soup, without Meat.—(No. 217.) Take a quart of Green Pease, (keep out half a pint re the youngest, boil them separately, and put them in the Soup when it is finished,) put them on in boiling water, boil them tender, and then pour off the water, and set it by to make the Soup with; put the pease into a mortar, and pound them to a mash. Then put them in two quarts of the water you boiled the pease in, stir all well together, let it boil up for about five minutes, and then rub it through a hair sieve or tammis ; if the pease are good, it will be as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need be sent to T'able. Prase Sour. —(No. 218.) ‘The common way of making Pease Soup* is,—to a Quart of Split Pease put three quarts of cold soft water, not more, (or it will be what “sack Ros-BIF” calls “* Soup Magre,”) notwithstanding Mother Glasse orders a gallon, (and her Ladyship’s directions have been copied by almost every Cockery book-maker, who has strung Receipts together since), with half a pound of Bacon, (not very fat), or Roast Beef bones, or four Anchovies; or, instead of the water, three quarts of the Liquor in which Beef, Mutton, Pork or Poultry has been boiled, tasting it first, to make sure it is not too salt +. Wash two heads of Celery tf, cut it, and put it im, with two Onions peeled, and a sprig of Sayory, or sweet Marjoram, or Lemon-Thyme; set it on the trivet, and let it simmer very gently over a slow fire, stirring it every quarter of an hour (to keep the pease from * To make PEASE PoTTAGE, double the quantity. Those who often make Pease Soup, should have a Mill, and grind the Pease, just before they dress them,—a less quantity will suffice, and the Soup will be much sooner made. tIf the Liquor is very salt, the Pease will never boil tender.—Therefore, when you make Pease Soup with the liquor in which salted Pork or Beef has been boiled, tie up the Pease in a cloth, and boil them first for an hour in soft water. { Half a drachm of Celery Seed powaded fine, and put into the Soup a quarter of an hour before it is finished, will flavour three quarts. 256 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. sticking to and burning at the bottom of the Soup-pot), till the Pease are tender, which will be in about three hours ; — some Cooks, now slice a head of Celery, and half an ounce of ic ei and fry them in a little butter, and put them into the Soup, till they are lightly browned, then work the whole through a coarse hair sieve, and then through a fine sieve, or (what is better) through a tammis, with the back of a wooden spoon; — put it into a clean stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of ground Black Pepper ®, let it boil again for ten minutes, and if any fat arises, skim it off. Send up on a plate, Toasted Bread cut into little pieces a quarter of an inch square, or cut a slice of bread (that has been baked two days) into dice not more than half an inch square; put half a pound of clean drippings or lard into an iron fryingpan; when it is hot, Fry the Brean, take care and turn it about with a slice, or by shaking of the pan as it is frying, that it may be on each side of a delicate light brown, see (No. 319); take it up with a fish slice, and lay it on a sheet of paper to drain the fat; be careful that this 1s done nicely: send these up in one side dish, and dried and powdered Mint or Savory, or Sweet Mar- joram, &c. in another. Those who are for a double Relish, and are true lovers of ‘* Haut Gott,” may have some Bacon cut into small squares like the bread, and fried till it is crisp, or some little lumps of boiled pickled Pork, — or put Cucumber fried into this soup, as you have directions in (No. 216.) Obs. — The most Economical method of making PEASE soup, is to save the bones of a joint of Roast beef, and put them into the liquor in which Mutton, or Beef, or. Pork, or Poultry has been boiled, and proceed as in ‘the above receipt. A hock, or shank bone of Ham, a ham © ® Some put in dried Mint rubbed to fine powder; but as every body does not like Mint, it is best to send it up on a plate, see PEA POWDER (No. 458), Essence of CELERY (No. 409), and (Nos. 457 and 459.) BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 257 bone, the root of a ‘Tongue, or a red or pickled Herring, are favourite additions with some Cooks; others send’ up Rice, or Vermicelli with Pease Soup *. N. B. To-make Preaszt Sovr EXTEMPorE, see (No, 555.) - If you wish To MAKE SouP THE SAME DAY YOU Bort Meat or Pouttry, prepare the pease the same as for Pease Pudding (No. 555), (in which you may put an Onion and a head of celery), when you rub the pease through the sieve, instead of putting Eggs and Butter, add some of the liquor from the pot to make it a proper thickness, pat it on to boil for five minutes, and it Is ready. Obs. — This is by far the easiest, and, I think, the best way of making Pease Soup. ) Pease Soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate, without any Meat, by incorporating two ounces of fresh and nicely clarified Beef, Mutton, or Pork drippings, see (No. 83), with two ounces of Oat- meal, and mixing this well into the gallon of soup, made.as above directed, see also (No..229.) Pease Soup and Pickled Pork. — (No. 220.) A couple of pounds of the belly part of Pickled Pork will make very good broth for Pease Soup, if the pork be not too salt, —if it has been in salt more than two days, it must ‘be laid in water the night before it is used. Put on the ingredients mentioned in (No. 218), in three quarts of water; boil gently for two hours, then * My witty predecessor, Dr. HUNTER, (see Culina, page 97), says, “ If a proper quantity of Curry powder (No. 455) be added to pease soup, a good soup might be made, under the title of Curry Pease Soup. Heliogabalus offered rewards for the discovery of a new dish, and the British Par liament have given notoriety to inventions of much less importance than ‘ Curry Pease Soup.’” NoUB. Celery, or Carrots, —or Turnips, — shredded or cut in squares, (or. Scotch Barley, in the latter.case the soup must be rather thinner), or cut into bits about an inch long, and boiled separately, and thrown into the tureen when the soup is going to table, will give another agreeable variety, and may. be called CELERY AND PEASE SouP. Read OBs. to (No. 214.) 258° BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. put.in the pork, and boil very. gently till it is enough to eat,—this will, take about: an hour anda, half or. two hours longer, according to. its thickness : —when, done, wash the.pork .clean in hot water, send it up/in a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the Soup in the tureen, with. the accompaniments ordered in (No. 218.) . Obs.— The Meat being boiled no longer than to: be. done enough. to be eaten, — you get pasttenh Raps without any expense of Meat CeO | Pian Pzasz Soup. —(No. 221 att To a Quart of Split Pease, and two heads of Celery; (and most Cooks would put a large Onion,) put three quarts of Broth or soft water; let them simmer gently» on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours, (stirring up every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning at the bottom of the soup kettle, —if the water boils” away andthe Soup gets: too thick, add some boiling water to it);— when they are well softened, work: them through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine sieve or a tammis, wash out your stewpan, and then return the Soup into it, and give it a boil up; take off any scum that comes up, and it is ready. Prepare fried Bread and dried Mint, as directed in (No. 218), and send them up with it on two side dishes. | Obs. — This is' an excellent: Family Soup, produced with very little trouble or Gigiw 5 oo-ha€s Quart of Pease eeveescccens — "4 Two Heads of Celery ..ccce 0 2 Pepper and Salt.ecevcvcees -O-1 Dried: Mint .sscecrcccsscpeas 0.) 1 1, 0 So the Two Quarts cost OnE Sariiewa soho a drachm of bruised Celery Seed, which costs only. one- third of a farthing, and a little Sugar, added. just before finishing the Soup — will give it as much flavour as Two Heads of the fresh Vegetable. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 259 Most of the Receipts for Pease Soup, are crowded with ingredients which entirely overpower the flavour of the Pease. See (No. 555.) Asparagus Soup. —(No. 222.) ‘This is made with the points of Asparagus, in the same manner as the Green Pease Sonp (No. 216 or 17) is with pease; let half the Asparagus be rubbed through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about an inch long, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in the soup;. to make two quarts, there must be a pint of heads to thicken it, and half a pint cut in,—take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup is sometimes made by adding the Asparagus heads to common Pease soup. ~ Obs. —Some Cooks fry half an ounce of Onion in a little butter, and rub it through a sieve, and add it with the_other ingredients, — the haut-gott of the Onion will entirely overcome the delicate flavour of the Asparagus, and we protest against all such com- binations. Vegetable Gravy Soup*.—(No. 224.) Put, in a gallon stewpan, three ounces of Butter, set it over a slow fire; while it is melting, slice four ounces of Onion; cut in small pieces, one Turnip, one Carrot, and one head of Celery; put them in the stewpan, cover it close, let it fry till they are browned; this will take about 25 minutes :—have ready in a saucepan a pint of Pease, with four quarts of water; when the Roots in the stewpan are quite brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the pease and water to them, put it on the fire when it boils, scum it clean, and put in a crust of bread about as big as the top of a twopenny * The French call this ‘‘ Soupe Maigre,’?—the English acceptation of which is.** pvor and watery,” and does not at all accord with the French, which is Soups, &c. made without meat—thus, TuRTLE, the richest dish oa pore to an English table (if dressed without Meat Gravy), és a Maigre Dis ° ) 260 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS, loaf, 24 berries of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, two blades of Mace,—cover it close,—let it simmer’ gently for one hour and a half;—then set it from the fire for ten minutes, then pour it off very gently (so as not to disturb.the sediment at the bottom of the stew- pan) into a large basin, let it stand (about two hours) till it is quite clear:—while this is doing, shred one: large Turnip, the red part of a large Carrot, three ounces of Onion minced, and one large head of Celery cut into small bits; put the Turnips and Carrots on the fire in cold water, let them boil five minutes, then drain them on a sieve, —then pour off the Soup clear into a stewpan, put in the Roots, put the Soup on the fire, let it simmer gently till the herbs are tender, from thirty to forty minutes, season it with salt and a little Cayenne, and it is ready. You may add a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup ; (No. 439.) ~ Obs.— You will’have Three Quarts of Soup, as well coloured and as well flavoured as if made with Gravy Meat, —for ls. 13d. Ss. @ CArrots.ciacc.c'essde e's caieainhins Oo 1 TUrnipS, oocvececcccccsccens 01 Celery ccwccccccascccses one O 2 PASC seein oie. 0 aie e sias iets eels G3 ONiCHS cecevecs ibid eetowee h O Butter secvccscvevecvcscssce Op Sia s Spice, Salt, &c. Bees Sedo 4 Sa Urs N, B. To Fry the herbs requires 25 ths Poser Boil all together, one hour and a half, — to settle, at the least two hours, — when clear, and put on the fire again, half an hour or forty minutes. Fisu Soups. — (No. 225.) Eel Soup. To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized Onions, cut them in half, and cross your knife over them two or three times; put two ounces of Butter RROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS: 261 into a stewpan ;—when it is melted, put in the Onions, stir them about till they are lightly browned, — cut into pieces three pounds of unskinned Eels, — put them into your stewpan, and shake them over the fire for five minutes; then add three quarts of boiling water, and when they come to a boil, take the scum off very clean, then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green leaves (not dried) of winter Savory, the same of Lemon Thyme, and twice the quantity of Parsley, two drachms of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, — cover it close, and let it boil gently for two hours, then strain it off, and skim it very clean. To THIcKEN it, put three ounces of Butter into a clean stewpan; when it js melted, stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, then add the liquor by degrees, let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve, then put your Soup on in a clean stewpan, — and have ready some little square pieces of Fish fried of a nice light brown, — either Eels, Soles, Plaice, or Skate will do; —the fried Fish should be added about ten minutes before the Soup is served up. Forcemeat Balls (Nos 375, 378, &c.) are sometimes added. | Obs. — ExceLLEnT Fisu Sours may be made with a Cod’s Skull, Skate, Flounders, &c. boiled in no more water than will just cover them,— and the liquor thickened with Oatmeal, &c. Cueap Soups, —(No. 229.) Among the variety of schemes that’ have been suggested for bettering the condition of the Poor, a more useful or extensive Charity cannot be devised, than that of instructing them in Economical Cookery:— it is one of the most important objects to which the attention of any real well-wisher to the public interest can possibly be directed. The best and cheapest method of making a nourish- ing Soup——is least known to those who have most ‘need of it;—Jit will enable those who have-small’ in- 262 #$$BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. comes and large families-—to make the most.of the little they possess, without pinching their children of that wholesome nourishment which is necessary, for the -purpose of rearing them up to maturity in. Health and Strength. The labouring classes seldom purchase what are called the coarser pieces of Meat, because they do not -know how to dress them, but lay out their money in ‘pieces for Roasting, &c., of which the bones, &c. enhance the price .of the actual meat to nearly a ‘shilling per pound, and the diminution of weight -by Roasting amounts to 32 per cent. This, for the sake _.of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent to an oven to be baked, the nourishing parts are evaporated and dried up, its weight is diminished nearly one-third, and all that a poor man can afford to purchase with his week’s earnings, perhaps does not half satisfy the ap- -petites of himself and family for a couple of days. If a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable -meal at Home, — he soon finds the way to the Public- house,—the poor Woman contents herself with Tea and Bread and Butter,—-and the Children are *half ‘starved. The following Receipt to make a cheap, nutritive, ,and palatable Soup, fully adequate to satisfy Appe- tite, and support Strength, will open a new source to those benevolent Housekeepers, who are disposed to relieve the poor, — will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist them- selves, and rescue them from being dependent on the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain an abundant, salubrious, and agree- able .aliment for themselves and families, for Onx ‘PENNY PER QuART., For various Economical Soups, see: (Nos. 204, 239 -and 40, 224, 221), and Obs. to (No. 244), (No. 252), sand (Nos. 493-and 502.) _ Obs. — Dripping intended: for Soup, should be taken _BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 263 out of the Pamalmost as ‘soon as it has dropped from the meat;—if it is not quite clean, clarify it. “See receipt (No. 83.) ‘Dripping thus prepared, is'a very different thing from that which has remained in the Dripping-pan all the time the meat has been roasting — and perhaps live coals have dropped into it*. DistRiBpuTiIneG Soup, does not answer half so well as teaching people how to make it, and improve ther comfort at ‘Home, — the time lost in waiting at the Soup House is seldom less than three hours; inswhich time, by any industrious occupation, however poorly paid, they could earn more money than the quart of Soup is worth. Dr. Kirceniner’s Receipt to make a Gallon of Barley Broth for a Groat. Put four ounces of Scotch barley (previously washed in cold water), and four ounces of sliced Onions, into five quarts of water;—boil gently for one hour, and pour it into'a pan, then put into the saucepan from one to two ounces of clean Beef or Mutton Drippings, or melted Suet; (to clarify these, see (No. 83,) or two or three ounces of fat Bacon minced); when melted, stir into it four ounces of Oatmeal, rub these together till you make a paste, (if this be properly managed, the ‘whole of the fat will combine with the barley broth, * We copied the following Receipt from The Morning Post, January, 1820 :— : ‘WINTER SouP.—(No. 227.) 210lbs. of Beef, fore quarters. | 12 Bundles of Leeks. QOibs. of Legs of Beef. 6 Bundles of Celery. 3 Bushels of best Split Pease. 12lbs. of Salt. 1 Bushel of Flour. 11lbs. of Black Pepper. These good ingredients will make 1000 quarts of nourishing and agreeable Soup, at an expense (Establishment avoided) of little less than 2d. per uart. Of this, 2600 quarts a day have been delivered during the late inclement weather, and the cessation of ordinary employment, at fwo stations in the parish of Bermondsey, at one penny per quart, by which 600 families have been daily assisted, and it thankfully received. Such a nourishment and comfort could not have been provided by themselves separately for fourpence - a quart, if at all, and reckoning little for their fire, nothing for their time. 264 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. and not a particle appear on the surface to offend the most delicate stomach), now add the Barley Broth, at first a spoonful at a time, then the rest by degrees, stirring it well together till it boils:—To season it, put a drachm of finely pounded Celery, or Cress’Seed, (or half a drachm of each,) and a quarter of a’ drachm.of finely pounded Cayenne (No. 404), or a drachm and a half of ground Black Pepper, or Allspice, into a tea- cup, and mix it-up with a little of the soup, and then pour it into the rest, stir it thoroughly together, let vit simmer gently a quarter of an hour tonge, t season it with salt, and it is ready. The flavour may be varied by doubling the: mY ei of Onions, or adding a clove of Garlic or Eschallot, and leaving out the Celery Seed, see (No. 572.) This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without variety, soon become less agreeable. Nothing tends so much to disarm poverty of its sting, as the means of rendering a ccomnen ere capable of yielding a comfortable variety. | Change of Food is absolutely necessary=“not only as a matter of pleasure and comfort, but also of Health — Toujours Perdrix is a true proverb: ob It will be much improved, if, instead of water, it be made with the liquor Meat has been boiled in; —at Tripe, Cow-heel, and Cook shops, this mays be nee for little or nothing. This Soup has the advantage of being very soon and easily made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room—those who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a Savoury and Satisfying Meal is pro- duced by the combination of these cheap and homely ingredients. If the generally received opinion be true, that-Animal and Vegetable foods afford nourishment, in proportion to the quantity of Oil, Jelly, and Mucilagethat can be extracted. from them, this Soup has strong claims to the attention of Rational Economists. © | BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND*SOUPS: 265 Cray Fish Soup. —(No. 235.) — This soup, is sometimes made with Beef, or Veal broth, — or with Fish, in the following manner. - Take Flounders, Eels, Gudgeons, Ge? and. set them on to boil in cold water; when it is pretty nigh boiling, scum it well, and to three quarts put in a couple of Onions, and as many Carrots cut to pieces, some Parsley, a dozen berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and about half a hundred Cray-fish; take off the small claws, and ‘shells of the tails, pound them fine, and boil then | ‘with the broth about an hour; strain off, and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it, and if you can get it, the spawn ofa lobster, pound it, and put to the soup, let it simmer very gently for a couple of minutes, put in your cray-fish to get hot, and the soup is ready. Obs. — One of my predecessors recommends Cray- FISH pounded alive, to sweeten the sharpness of the Blood. —Vide Crermont’s Covkery, p. 5, London, 1776. “< Un des grands Hommes de Bouche de France” Says : “Un bon Coulis d’Ecrevisses est le Paradis sur la terre, et digne de la table des Dieux ; and of all the tribe 44 Shell- fish, which our Industry and our Sensuality — bring from. the bottom of the Sea, the River, or the Pond, the Craw-fish is incomparably the most useful and the most delicious.” ite Soup. — (No. 237.) You must have three fine lively* Young Hen Lobsters, and boil them, see (No. 176); when cold, split the tails, take out the fish, crack the claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls: take out the coral, and soft part of the body, bruise part of the coral in a mortar, pick out the fish from the chines, beat part of it with the coral, and with this make forcemeat balls, finely flavoured with mace or nutmeg, — a little grated lemon-peel, An- * Read (No. 176.) N 266 © BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. chovy and Cayenne; pound these with the yolk of an Ege. , irene Oy ae three quarts of Veal Broth; bruise the small legs and the chine, and put them into it, to boil for twenty minutes, then strain it; and then to thicken it, take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a little Butter and Flour, rub it through a sieve, and add it to the soup with the meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral; let it simmer very gently for ten minutes; do not let it boil, or its fine red colour will immediately fade; turn it into a tureen, add the juice of a good lemon, and a little Essence of Anchovy. Soup and Bouilli.— (No. 238.)— See also (No. 5.) The best parts for this purpose, are the Leg or Shin, or a piece of the middle of a Brisket of Beef, of about seven or eight pounds weight; lay it on a fish drainer, or when you take it up, put a slice under it, which will enable you to place it on the dish entire; put it into a soup-pot or deep stewpan, with. cold water enough to cover it, and a quart over, set it on a quick fire to get the scum up, which remove as it rises ;. then put in two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two large onions, two heads of celery, two or three cloves, and a faggot of parsley and sweet herbs; set the pot by the side of the fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is; just tender enough to eat; this will require about four or five hours. ; Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a head or two of celery, into the soup whole, — take them out as soon as they are done enough, lay them on a dish till they are cold, then cut them into small squares :— when the Bezr is done, take it out care- fully, — to dish it up, see (No. 204, or 493,) strain the Sour through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, take off the Fat, and put the Vegetables that are cut into the Soup, the flavour of which you may heighten, by adding a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 267 Ifa Tuickewnep Sour is preferred, take four large tablespoonsful of the clear Fat from the top of the pot, and four spoonsful of Flour; mix it smooth together, then by degrees stir it well into the soup, which simmer for ten minutes longer at least,-~skim it well, and pass it through a tammis, or fine sieve, and add the Vege- tables and seasoning the same as directed in the clear soup. fess the Beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to the Soup) with finely chopped Parsley sprinkled on the top, and a Sauce-boat of (No. 328.) Ox-Head Soup —(No. 239.) Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold ; — therefore, the day before you want this Soup, put half an Ox Cheek into a tub of cold water to soak for a couple of hours, then break the bones that have not been broken at the butcher’ Ss, and wash it very well in warm water; put it into a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim it very clean, and then put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots, a turnip, two large onions, two dozen berries of black pepper, same of allspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon-thyme, savory, and a handful of parsley; cover the seup-pot close, and set it on a slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise when itis coming to a boil, and set it by the fire- side to stew very gently for about three hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a fine > sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by in a cool place till the next day; — then, cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain off the Broth, — put two quarts of it and the Meat into a clean stew- an, —let it simmer very gently for half an hour onger, and it is ready, if you wish it THICKENED, (which we do not recommend, — for the reasons given in the 7th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery) ;— Nn 2 268: BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. put two ounces of butter into a stewpan; when it’is melted, throw in as much flour as.will dry it up; when: they are well mixed together, and browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, ‘and stir it well together, let it simmer for half an hour longer, strain it through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, and put to it the meat of the head,—let it stew half an hour longer, and season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of good wine, or a tablespoonful of brandy. See Ox Cheek Stewed (No. 507.) iW (gi Obs.— Those who wish this Soup still more savoury, &c. for the means of making it so we refer to (No. 247.) N. B. This is an Excellent and Economical Soup,— S. ae 6.7 ¢ get d Half an Ox Cheek eeeeovecce Slee @aes oral OL 6 Celery @oeaceeevece eecovesseeerce « O'F FLED DS) aie cies ops eiyie a cntaeimates ibevee (0 jae Carrots and Turnips .ssesssccccecs oe OS ONIONS, . 0's se sinas cacpoevetion su soure Oo 1 Allspice, and Black Pepper and Salt. 0 1 2a8 and costs those who have not a garden of their own, only 2s. 2d., and is a good and plentiful dinner for half a dozen people; see also (No. 204), and (No. 229.) If you serve it as Soup for a dozen people, thicken one Tureen, and send up the Meat in that,_-and send up the other as a clear Gravy Soup, with some of the carrots and turnips shredded or cut into shapes. Ox Tail Soup. — (No. 240.) Two Tails, costing about 7d. each, will make a Tureen of Soup; (desire the Butcher to divide them at the joints,) lay them to soak in warm water, while you get ready the Vegetables. Put into a gallon stewpan, eight Cloves, two or three Onions, half a drachm of Allspice, and the same of Black Pepper, and the Tails*; cover them with cold water, skim it carefully, when and as long as you see any scum rise ;— then cover the pot as close as pos- * Some lovers of Hawt-Gott fry the Tails before they put, them into the Soup pot. is ' ; 2 -BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 269 sible, and set it on the side of the fire to keep gently ‘simmering till the meat becomes tender, and will leave ‘the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with a spoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork; see N.B. to (No. 244); this will require about two hours; mind it is not done too much: when perfectly tender, ‘take out the meat (which some Cooks cut off the bones, in neat mouthfuls, which is the best way of serving it), skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve :—if you prefer a THicKENED Soup, put flour -and butter, as directed in the preceding Receipt, — or ‘put two tablespoonsful of the Fat you have taken off ‘the Broth into a clean stewpan, with as much flour as will make it into a paste; set this over the fire, and ‘stir them well together, then pour in the Broth by ‘degrees, stirring it and mixing it with the thickening ; *—let it simmer for another half hour, and when you have well skimmed it and it is quite smooth, then ‘strain it through a tammis into a clean stewpan, put -in the Meat, with a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), a glass of Wine, and season it with salt. For increasing the Pzquance of this Soup, read (No, 247.) - Obs.—See N.B. to (No. 244); if the Meat is cut off the Bones, you must have three Tails for a Tureen, see N. B. to (No. 244); some put an Ox Cheek or Tails in an earthen pan with all the ingredients as above, -and send them to a slow oven for five or six hours. N.B. This is even more economical than the pre- ceding Soup :— BT aieins bes ease win ness ied a Teoh k Onions and Spice ..... Pr bvocvctousccsccccece ese O wet THREE Quarts of excellent Soup cost only... 1 4 To Stew Ox Tatts, see (No. 531.) Ox Heel Soup — (No. 240.*) Must be made the day before it is eaten. Procure an Ox Heel undressed, or only scalded, (not one that 270 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. has been already boiled, as they are at the Tripe shops, till almost all the gelatinous parts, are extracted), and Two that have been boiled as they usually are at. the Tripe shops. : vO Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls, and set it by on a plate; put the trimmings and bones into a stewpan, with three quarts of water, and the un- boiled heel cut into quarters ; — furnish a Stewpan with two onions and two turnips pared and sliced, pare off the red part of a couple of large carrots, add a couple of eshallots cut in half, a bunch of savory, or lemon- thyme, and double the quantity of parsley; set this over or by the side of a slow steady fire, and keep it closely covered and simmering very gently (or the soup- liquor will evaporate), for at least seven hours; during which, take care to remove the fat and scum that will rise to the surface of the soup, which must. be kept as clean as possible. wee santana Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and. put. two ounces of butter into a clean stewpan; when it is melted, stir into it as much flour as will make it a stiff paste, add to it by degrees, the soup liquor, give it a boil up, strain it through a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the meat of the boiled heels,—let it go on simmering for half an hour longer, z.¢. till the meat is tender. Put in the juice of a Lemon, a glass.of Wine, and a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, and the. soup is ready for the tureen. . Obs. — Those who are disposed to make this a more substantial dish, may introduce a couple of sets of Goose or Duck giblets, or Ox tails, or a pound of Veal cutlets, cut into mouthfuls. Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup.—(No. 241.) An Old Hare, or Birds, when so tough as to defy the teeth in any other form, will make very good Soup. + Cut off the legs and shoulders, divide the body ee ee ee ee - > Se Ge a hia? eh, em, eee ey nT on cee, te a s SS pa aan hs BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 271 crossways, and stew them very gently in three quarts of water, with one carrot, about one ounce of onion, with four cloves, two blades of pounded mace, 24 black peppers, and a bundle of sweet herbs, till the Hare is tender, (most Cooks add to the above a couple of slices of Ham or Bacon, and a Bay leaf, &c. but my Palate and. Purse both plead against such extravagance, the Hare makes sufficiently savoury Soup without them); ‘the time this will take, depends very much upon its age, and how long it has been kept before it is dressed ; as a general rule, about three hours; in the mean time, make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls (as big as Nutmegs) of (No. 379); when the Hare is quite tender, take the meat off the Back, and the upper joint of the Legs, cut it into neat mouthfuls, and lay it aside ; cut the rest of the meat off the legs, shoulders, &c. mince it, and pound it in a mortar, with an ounce of butter, and twoor three tablespoonsful of flour moistened with a little Soup; rub this through a hair sieve, and put it into the Soup to thicken it ;— let it simmer slowly half an hour longer, skimming it well, — put it through the Tammis, into the pan again, — and put in the meat _ with a glass of claret or Port wine, and a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly to each quart of Soup, — season it with salt, put in the forcemeat balls, and when all is well warmed, the Soup is ready. Obs.— Coup Roast Hare will make excellent soup. Chop it in pieces, and stew it in water (according to the quantity of Hare) for about an hour, and manage it as inthe above receipt; the stuffing of the hare will be a substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. N.B. This Soup may be made with Mock Hare, see (No. 66.*) Goose or Duck Giblet* Soup. — (No, 244.) Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of Goose, — * FowLs’ or TURKEYS’ HEADS make good and cheap Soup in the same manner, 212 ‘BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. or four of Duck Giblets, (the: fresher the ‘better;)’ wash them well in warm water,’ in two or three waters; cut _ off the Noses and split the Heads, divide the: Gizzards and Necks into Mouthfuls —If the Gizzards are not: cut into pieces, —before they are done enough, the rest of the meat, &c. will -be done too’ muchy'— and’ Knives and. Forks, have no business in a Soup plate.” + Crack the bones of the Legs; put them into“a stewpan,— cover them with cold water: when they boil, take off the scum as it rises, then put in a bundle of: herbs; such as Lemon Thyme, Winter Savory, or Marjoram, about three sprigs» of each,-and double ‘the quantity” of Parsley, — twenty berries of ‘Allspice} the same ‘of black pepper, ‘tie them all ‘up in/a muslin’ bag, and set them to. stew very gently, till the Gizzards are tender; — this will take from an hour and a half, to two hours, according to the size:and age of the Giblets.: —take them up with a. skimmer, or a spoon’ full of holes, put them into the tureen, and cover dows seen to’ koe warm till the Soup is ready. id? @ | To: Tuickew the Soup. — Melt: an ounce dt a half of butter in a clean stewpan, stir in as much Flour as will make it into a‘paste; then: pour to it~ by degrees a ladleful of: the Giblet: liquor, add ‘the remainder’ by degrees, let:it boil about ten minutes, stirring it all the while, for fear it should buitiyeex slew it-and strain it through a finesieve into a Basin, — wash out .the stewpan, —then return the Soup into it; and season it with a Glass: of wine; ‘a tablespoonful ‘of Mushroom Catsup, and a little salt, let ‘it have one’ boil up;— and then put the Giblets 4 in to Fiat hot, and — rae ah is ready. x5 Obs. — Thus aeaen one set of Gaia or’ Hi3 of Duck Giblets, (which latter may sometimes be had for 3d.), will tntiiee a Quart of healthful, “nourishing Soup: if you think the Giblets alone will not make the Gravy savoury enough, add _a pound of Beef, or Mutton, or bone of a knuckle of Veal, and heighten its “* piquance” -BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 973 by adding a few leaves of sweet Basil, the j juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and half a glass of Wine, and a little of (No. 343 *) to each quart of Soup. _ Those who are fond of Forcemegat, may slip the skin off the neck, and fill it with (No. 378), tie up the other end tight, put it into the soup about half an hour before you take it up, or make some nice savoury Balls of the Duck stuffing (No. 61.) Obs. — Bespeak the Giblets a couple of days before you desire to have them; this is a favourite Soup when the Giblets are done till nicely tender, but yet not overboiled. Giblets may be had from July to January, —the fresher they are, the better. N.B. This is rather a family dish than a company Sie the Bones cannot be well picked, without the help of Alive Pincers. Since Tom Coryat introduced Forks, A. D. 1642, it has not been the fashion to put “ pickers and stealers” into Soup. Mock Mock Turtrie,—(No. 245.) as made by Eviza- BeTu Lister, (late Cook to Dr. Kitchiner), No. 6, Queen Street, Oxford Street, near the Pantheon.—Goes out to Dress Dinners on reasonable 'T'erms. Line the bottom of a stewpan that will hold five pints, with an ounce of nice lean Bacon, or Ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, a Cow Heel, the inner rind of a carrot, a sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savory, three times the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves of sweet basil,* and two shallots; put in alarge Onion, with four cloves stuck in it, 18 corns of allspice, the same of black pepper; pour on these a quarter ofa pint of cold water, cover the stewpan, and set it on a slow fire, “ To this fine aromatic Herb, Turtle Soup is much indebted for its spicy flavour, and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of London, who, I believe, are pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. Salmon. See his “ Household Lictionary, and Essay on Cookery,’ 8vo. London, 1710, page 34, article ‘ Basil.’ “‘ This comforts the heart,expels melancholy, and cleanses the lungs.” See (No. 397.) n 5 274 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. to boil gently for a quarter of an hour; then, for fear the meat should catch, take off the, cover, and watch it; and when it has got a good brown colour, fill up the stewpan with boiling water, and let it simmer very gently for two hours ;—if you wish to have the full benefit of the meat, only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To TuricKeEn it, pour to two or three tablespoonsful of Flour, a ladleful of the gravy, and stir it quick till itis well mixed ; pour it back into the stewpan where the gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer, skim it, and then strain it through a tammis into the stewpan : cut the cow-heel into pieces about an inch square, squeeze through a sieve the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- spoonful of ground black pepper, as much grated nut- meg as will lie on a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or sherry wine; let it all simmer together for five minutes longer. Forcemeat or Egg balls may be added if you please ; you will find a receipt for these (No. 380, &c.) ** A pound of Veal Cutlets, or the belly part of pickled Pork, or nice double Tripe cut into pieces about an inch square, and half an wnch thick, and rounded and trimmed neatly from all skin, gristle, &c. and stewed till they are tender, will be a great addition. Se One pound and a half of gravy beef 1 COW He€leeecevecsseeses eesccvecece O Roots and "Herbs, &C.. cvosesss O Butter and flour scvcaececcesessie O Ni th LRC vcorginie ole upnaiels @veccccens eeccece 0 Half a lemomecececcvcrecccccusices 0 Bacon, &c. EGC. ca seccesevsaceseducte 0 a A —— Two quarts cost only se... 3 1 Mock TurtTLe —(No. 247.) Is the “ Bonne Bouche” which “ the Officers of the Mouth” of Old England* prepare, when they choose * “ Tout le monde sait que tous les Ragotés qui portent le nom de TORTUE, sont d’origine Anglaise.”—Manuel des Amphitryons, 8vo. 1808, p. 229. ened Be le ee, ee 5 aD eae Vera el ee ee e ; : . BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SoUPS. 275. to rival ‘ les Grands Cuisiniers de France” ina “ Ragott Sans Pareil.” Endeavour to have the Head, and the Broth ready for the Soup,* the day before it is to be eaten. ~ It will take Ezght Hours to prepare it properly. hours. Cleaning and soaking the headsecdrcccecoese 1 To parboil it to etek eae eeeccveeccescccces 1 Cooling, nearly. sccccscccccsesccvescce evcood Making the Broth and finishing the Soup e+e. 5 8 ‘Bhours. Get a Calf’s head with the skin on, (the fresher the better), take out the brains, wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak for about an hour in spring water, then lay it in a stewpan; and cover it with cold water, as it becomes warm a great deal of scum will rise, which must be immediately removed,—let it boil gently for one hour, take it up, and when almost cold, cut the head into pieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, and the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather make a side dish of the Tongue and Brains, as in (No. 10.) Put about two ounces of butter into a stock pot, and three large Onions (such as weigh about three ounces each) cut in half; stir these about till they get a little browned, then ‘chop a Shin of Beef+ of fifteen pounds weight into pieces, and lay them on the onions, — and fill up the stewpan with the liquor in which the Calf’s head was boiled ; when it boils, and you have skimmed it well, put in two Carrots, two Turnips, two heads of\ Celery, eight Cloves, a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois. weight) of Eschallots, cut in half, and a bundle of equal parts of Green winter Savory, Lemon-thyme, knotted * Those who do not like the trouble, &c. of making Mock Turtle, may be supplied with it ready made, in high perfection, at B1RcH’s in Cornhill. See note at the foot of page 122. + See Obs. to (No. 503.*) This Gravy Meat will make an excellent savoury Potted Relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbs and spice that are ‘boiled with it. The Reader may have remarked, that Mock TURTLE and POTTED Bzexr always come into season together. ’ 276 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. Marjoram, and Basil,* and twice the quantity of Parsley; put in a quarter of an ounce of Allspice, same of whole Black Pepper, the trimmings and, bones of the Calf’s head ;+ cover it close, and let it stew gently for about four hours, (there should be nine quarts of soup when it is finished); and strain it off, and reserve a couple of quarts of this Broth to make Gravy Sauces for the rest the Dinner; see (No. 307.) And save some of the thickened Soup, for Sauce ror Fisu, Racouts, &c.; i hint will save you much cg and much time trouble. nT ake four drachms of Lenion peel, two of Eshallot, ’ six drachms of the leaves of Sage, and six of Winter savory, chop it together quite fine, then put it on the fire in half a pint of the stock, let it boil till it is quite tender, (about half an hour), then strain it through a sieve, ‘and with the back of a spoon rub the herbs through, and put it in the Soup when you have thick- ened it. Lo TH1cKEN 11, put about six ounces of Butter into a clean stewpan; when it is melted, gradually stir in eight ounces of Flour, rub it up well and moisten it with a ladleful of your Soup liquor, and mix all well together, till they are smoothly united, then add the remainder by degrees, stirring it all the while till thoroughly incorporated ; (if itis at all lumpy, pass it through a sieve); let it stew half an hour longer, taking off the scum as it rises, then strain it through a tammis into a clean stewpan, put in the Head, and let it simmer * (No. 397) a Teaspoonfal will impregnate a quart of the Soup with the Basi] flavour at very moderate cost, when fresh Basil is extravagantly dear. The Jelly from the Shank Bones of Mutton, see N.B. t0-(No. 481), will give this gelatinous quality, cheaper than any thing, — excepting Salisbury Glue. + The addition of a couple of Calf*s Feet, or a Cow Heel, will render the Soup richly gelatinous.—You may cut these up, and reserve the best pieces to put in the Soup with the Calf’s Head, and put the trimmings and bones to stew with the other ingredients. A CAL¥’s SCALP, which may be purchased separate, for about 3s. 6d., and is used by some Cooks instead of buying the whole Hab, which costs, with © the skin on, from Qs. to 12s., the meat that can be cut off in neat pieces fit to put into the Soup, weighs (exclusive of the Tongue) from 3} to 44 pounds. ee ea BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 277 gently till the Meat is tender, (¢hzs may require about an coma 3—take care tt ts not overdone.) ‘To Season iT, to each Gallon of Soup put two Gablébpnodafil of Iémean Juice, see (No. 407) *, same of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and one of Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), half a pint of Wine, (this should be Madeira, or if you. wish to darken the colour of your soup, Claret), a teaspoonful of Curry Powder (No. 455), or a quarter of a drachm of Cayenne, and the peel of a Lemon pared as thin as possible; let it simmer five minutes more, take out the Lemon Peel, and the Soup is ready for the Tureen. This Soup was eaten by the Committee of Taste with unanimous applause, and they pronounced it a very satisfactory substitute + for “ the far fetcht and dear bought” Turtie; which itself is indebted for its Title of “« SOVEREIGN OF SavouRIvEss,” to the rich Soup with which it is.surrounded; without its paraphernalia of Double Relishes, a “* STARVED TURTLE,” has not more intrinsic sapidity thana “FA'T TED CALF,” See Essence of Turtle, (No. 343*), and Obs. to (No.493.) To WARM THIS Sour, see (No. 485.) ‘While the Soup is doing, prepare for each tureen, a dozen and a half of Mock Turtle forcemeat balls, (to make these, see (No. 375) or (No. 376), (No. 390: to No. 396), we prefer the stuffing ordered in (No. 61), and a dozen Egg balls; and put them into the tureen. Brain Batts, or cakes, are a very elegant addition, and are made by boiling the brains for ten minutes, * oe Basil Wine (No. 397), and Essence of Turtle (No. 343.*) + ** Many Gourmeés and Gastrologers prefer the copy to the original Wwe confess that when done as it ought to be, the Mock Turtle is exceedingly interesting.”— Tabella Cibaria, 1820, p. 30. “ Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country, in which case the Soup would be incomparably improved, by leaving out the Turtle, and substituting a yood Calf’s Head.”—-Supplement to Encyc. Brit. Edinburgh, vol. iv, p. 331. TURTLE prepared in the West Indies, may be had at Morrison’s Patent Preserved Provision Warehouse, No. 3, Charlotte Row, Mansion House, at the rate of £1. 1s. for three Quarts. The Editor tasted some Beef Stock, and some Veal stewed in its own Jelly, which had been cooked six months,— it was excellent, and continued so after being opened three days. 278 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. then putting them in cold water, and obtting them into pieces about as big as alarge nutmeg; take Savory, or Lemon-thyme dried and finely powdered, nutmeg grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them all to- gether; beat up an egg, dip the brains in it, and then roll them in. this mixture, and make as thnels of it as possible stick to them, dip them in the egg again, and then in finely grated and sifted bread- crumbs, fry them in hot fat, and send them up as a side dish. A VEAL SWEETBREAD, prepared asin (No. 89), (not too much done or it will break) cut into pieces the same size as you cut the calf’s head, and put in the soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, is a superb ‘“* Bonne Bouche ;” and Pickled Tongue, stewed till very tender, and cut into mouthfuls, is a favourite addition with some cooks. We order the meat to be cut into Mouthfuls, that it may be eaten with a spoon; the ae und Fork have no business in a Soup plate. ** Some of our culinary cotemporaries, order the Haute golt of this (as above directed, sufficiently relishing) Soup to be combustibled and be-devilled, with a copious addition of Anchovies, —Mushrooms,—T ruffles, — Morells,—Curry- powder,-— Artichoke bottoms,—Salmons heads and livers,— or the soft part. of Oysters or Lobsters,— Soles cut in mouthfuls, — a bottle of Madeira, — apint of Brandy, &c., and to complete their surfeiting and burn-gullet Oho, they put in such a tremendous quantity of Cayenne pepper, -— that only a fire-proof palate, lined with Asbestos, or indurated by Indian Diet, can endure it. See Note under (No. 493.) N.B. In helping this Soup, the distributor of it should serve out the Meat,—Forcemeat—and Gravy,— in equal parts; however trifling or needless this remark may appear, the writer has often suffered from the want of such a hint being given to the Soup-server, who has sometimes sent a plate of mere Gravy without Meat, — at others, of Meat without Gravy, and some- times scarcely any thing but Forcemeat Balls. Obs. — This is a delicious Soup, within the reach of a OR RAED LI pS RE treat Ee an Gs BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS, 279 those who “ eat to live ;” but if it had been composed expressly for those who only “ live to eat,” I do not know how it could have been made more agreeable: as it is, the lover of good eating will “ wish his Throat a mile long, and every inch of it Palate.” Englsh Turtle. — (No. 248.) See (No. 502.) ‘“ Atamopve Beer.” Curry, or Mullaga-Tawny* Soup. — (No. 249.) Cut 4lbs. of a Breast of Veal into pieces, about two inches by one; put the trimmings into a stewpan with two quarts of water, with 12 corns of Black Pepper; and the same of Allspice ; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a half, then strain it off ;— while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of Veal and four Onions; when they are done, put the Broth to them, put it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, —let it simmer half an hour, then mix two spoonsful of Curry and the same of Flour, with a little cold water and a teaspoonful of salt; add these to the soup, and simmer it gently till the Veal is quite tender, and it is ready;—or bone a couple of Fowls or Rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed above for the Veal,—and you may put in a bruised Eshallot, and some Mace and Ginger, instead of Black Pepper and “llspice. Turtle+ Soup. — (No. 250.) The following receipt for dressing this savoury Be BG 8 TE S81 8 Mae ES eR TN GA A a 1 A EL al * Mutllaga-Tawny —signifies Pepper Water. The progress of inexpe- rienced peripatetic Palaticiaus has lately been arrested by this outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our Coffee-Flouses: it has, we believe, answered the ‘* Restawrateurs’”’ purpose, and often excited JOHN BULL to walk in and taste ;—the more familiar name of Curry Soup— would, per- haps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty —to seduce him from his much-loved Mock TURTLE. It is a fashionable Soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and we give the best receipt we could procure for it. + The usual allowance at a TURTLE FEAST, is Three Pounds live weight per Head:—at the Spanish Dinner, 1808, 800 Guests attended, and 2500 pounds of Turtle were consumed. The Epicure QuIN used to say, it was “ not safe, to sit down to a Turtle Feast at one of the City Halls, without a basket-hilted Knife and Fork.” We recommend our friends, before encountering such a temptation, to read 280 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. farrago, is the present practice of an experienced French cook, (lately one of ‘ /es hommes de Bouche” at Carlton-House,) and a consummate master of the art: I give it in his own words :— of Fee “‘ The best size for taste, is from 60 to 80 pounds; this will make six or eight tureens of fine soup. Kill the turtle the evening before you wish to dress it; tie a cord to the hind fins of the turtle, and hang it up with the head downwards; tie the fore fins by way of pinioning them, it would otherwise beat itself, and be troublesome to the executioner; take the head with your left hand, and with a sharp knife cut off the neck as near the head as possible; there is a joint where the knife will pop through without any force. “Have one or two large tubs of water ready, and when you dissect your turtle, put it on a block on the back shell, slip your knife between the calliopee and the callio- pash; I mean between the breast and the edge of the back shell: when the knife has been round, and the breast 1s detached from the back shell, pass your fingers underneath, and with your knife detach the breast from the fins, always keeping the edge of your knife on the side of the breast, otherwise it may happen you may break the gall, which is very large, and if broken, your turtle is spoiled. Cut the breast into four pieces, next take away the guts, beginning by the liver, and cut away the gall, to be out of danger at once. The guts are to be thrown away. { have seen some cooks have them cleaned and cut in pieces, and put into the soup, but generally they are left on the gentlemen’s plates: a basin of turtle is considered a treat, consequently it should be so dressed that none be left on the plate or basin. When your our PEpTic PreEceEPtTs. , Nothing is more difficult of digestion, or oftener requires the aid of Peristaltic Persuaders, (see page.43 of this work), than _the glutinous Callipash which is considered the ‘‘ bonze bouche” of this Soup. TURTLE is generally spoiled by being over-dressed. If the Reader has any . curiosity to know how it is prepared in the most superlative style,—it will be gratified in the highest degree, if he pay a visit to ALBION TlousE, in Aldersgate Street. — - ro ke ee nee ; Pe eda we fae ta ae ee ot eG ee Ts . BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 281 ‘turtle is emptied, throw the heart, liver, kidneys, and lights, ‘into: water, cut away'the fins to’ the. root, I ‘Mean as hear to the’ back shell as possible, next cut .the fins in the second. joint, that the white meat may ‘be’ separated from ‘the green: scrape the fat that sticks ‘against the back shell, or calliopash, take it like as if -you was skimming any thing, and put it aside. Cut the calliopash into four pieces. Set a large turbot pan ‘on the fire, and when it boils dip a fin into it for a ‘minute, then'take it out and peel it very clean ;) when that:is done, take another, and so on till all are done; ‘then ithe head, next the shell and breast, piece by piece. Be careful to have the peel and shell entirely cleaned. off, then put in the same pan some clean water, with the breast and back, the four fins, and the head; let it boil till the bones will leave the meat; put with it a large faggot :of turtle herbs’ as big as ‘your two fists, four bay-leaves, and some thyme. If .you-mean to make two dishes of the fins, ‘you must take them away when they have been boiled one hour. -./ 46 Put, ina small stewpan, the liver, lights, heart, and kidneys, and the fat you have put aside; ‘take ‘some of the liquor that the other part has been boiled an 5. cover your stewpan close, and:let:it boil gently for three hours; Clean the bones, and breast, and back, drom the green fat, and cut it into pieces an inch long, and half an inch wide; do not lose any, as the little bits are as good’as the large ones ; besides, it would -be very difficult to cut it all of the same size. Put all ‘these pieces on a dish in your larder till your broth is ready. To make your broth, put on a large stock-pot, and line the bottom of it with a pound and a half of lean ham, cut into slices.. Cut into pieces a leg of véal of sixteen or twenty pounds weight, except a pound: of the fillet that you:save for the forcemeat, put: the rest upon the ham, with all the white meat of ‘the turtle, anda couple of old fowls; put it on a smart fire, with two ladlesful: of broth or consommé ; let it 282 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. reduce to a glaze; when it begins to stick to the bottom, pour the liquor in which thesturtle has-been boiled into the pot where the other part of the turtle _has been boiled, add to it a little more ‘sweet: herbs, twenty-four grains of allspice, six blades of mace, two large onions, four carrots, half an ounce of whole pepper, and some salt, let it simmer for four hours, and then strain the broth through a cloth sieve. = “Put the green part of the turtle that has’ been cut in pieces, and nicely cleaned, with'two bottles of Madeira in the same: when it has boiled a few minutes with: your turtle, add to it the broth, then put im a stewpan half a pound of butter; when it»is melted, add to it four woodenspoonsful of flour, stir it on the fire till the flour is a fine brown colour, then pour:some of your broth with it, mix it well, and strain it! in your soup through a hair sieve: cut your liver, lights, heart, kidneys, and fat into small square pieces, and put them into: your soup, with half a teaspoonful: of Cayenne, two of curry powder, and four tablespoonsful of essence of anchovies; let it boil for an hour and a half, care- fully skimming off the fat. “ Pound your veal in a marble mortar for the Forcemeat, and rub it through a hair: sieve with as much of the udder of your leg of: veal as you have meat, put some bread-crumbs: into a stewpan, with milk enough to wet it, with a little chopped parsley and shallot, dry it on the-fire, rub it through the wire sieve, and when cold, mix all together, that every part may be equally blended. Boil six eggs hard, take the yolks and pound them with the other ingredients, season it with salt, Cayenne, and a little curry powder, add: to it three raw eggs, and mix all'well together; make small balls of your foreemeat the bigness of a pigeon’s egg. Ten minutes before your soup is ready put your forceballs in, and continue to scum your soup till you take it off the fire) If your turtle weighs eighty pounds, it requires very near three bottles of BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 283 Madeira. When you dish your turtle, squeeze two lemons in each tureen; many persons like to have some eggs boiled hard, and a dozen of the yolks put in each tureen, which I think is very good. Turtle Fins. “ If you have some brown sauce, you put in a stew- pan five large spoonsful of it, with a bottle of Port wine, and a pottle of mushrooms ; ; when your sauce boils, put your four fins in; after ‘having taken away all the small bones that are seen breaking through the skin, put with it a faggot of a few sprigs s of parsley, a bit of thyme, one bay-leaf, and four cloves, and let-it simmer one hour: ten minutes before you dish, put five dozen of button onions that you have ready peeled: when. you dish, put in each dish a hind fin and a fore one, and look if it is salt enough,” *¢° If you have no Brown Sauce, put in a stewpan a. quarter of a pound of butter ; when it is melted, put to tt two woodenspoonsful of flour, stir it on the fire till it gets a huzel colour, pour a bottle of Port wine in tt, a ladleful of broth, and, when it boils, do as before mentioned, and scum tt well. PortTABLE* Sour, — or Giaze.—(No. 252.) Desire the Butcher to break the bones of a Leg or a Shin of Beef, of 10 pounds weight (the fresher killed the better), put it into a Soup-pot (a Dr- GESTER+ is the best utensil for this palrpoee) that * A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter; it thence follows, that 1500 pounds of the same meat, which is the whole weight of a bullock, would give only 94 pounds, which might be easily contained in an earthen Jar.”— Dr. Hutron’s Rational Recreations, vol. iv. p. 194. In what degree Portable or other Soup be nutritious, we know not; but refer the reader to our note under (No. 185.*) + This machine was invented by Dr. Denys Papin, F. R. S., about the year 1681, as appears by his Essay on “‘ The New Digester, or Engine for Softening Bones ;? —*‘* by the help of which, (he says) the oldest and hardest Cow Beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young and choice Meat.” Cast Iron Digesters are made at Jackson and Moser’s, ia Frith Street, Soho. Although we have not yet found that they do what Dr. Papin says; ‘‘ make old and tough Meat—young and tender,’’—they are, however, excellent things to make Broths and Soups in. 284 ‘BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. ‘will well hold it; just’ cover it with cold water, and ‘set it on the fire to heat gradually till it” nearly ‘boils, (this should be at least an hour) ; -—skim it attentively while any scum rises,— pour in a little cold water, to throw up the scum that may remain,— let it come to a boil again, and again skim it care- fully: when no more scum rises, and the broth ap- ‘pears clear, (put in neither Riowts nor Herbs nor Salt,) let it boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair sieve into a brown stone pan; set the Broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a sieve, let it -drain, make Potted Beef (No. 503), or tb will be very acceptable to many poor families? Next ‘day remove every particle of Fa¢ from the top of it, and ‘pour it through a Tammis or fine sieve as quietly as ‘possible into a Stewpan, taking care not to let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the ‘Stewpan, which should be of thick Copper, perfectly ‘well tinned; adda quarter of an ounce of whole Black Pepper to it, let it boil briskly, with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick fire: if any scum rises, take it off with a skimmer; when it begins to thicken, and 1s reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stew- pan. set it over a gentler fire, till it is reduced to the thickness of a very thick Syrup; take care that it does not burn,—a moment's inattention now will lose you all your labour, and the soup will be spoiled: — take a little of it out in a spoon and let it cool; if it sets into ‘strong Jelly, it is done enough ; —if it does not, boil it a little longer, till it does;—have ready some little pots, such as are used for Potted Meats, about an inch anda half deep, taking care that they are quite dry ;— we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for home consumption —- (the less af ts reduced, the better ts the flavour of the Soup)—if it be sufficiently con- centrated to keep for six months;—if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders as are used for German Sausages,—or if you prefer it in. the (I i BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 285° form of Cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of an Inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh. the Cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces. of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, and turn them frequently till they are. thoroughly dried ;— this will take a week or ten days ;. turn them twice a day;—when well hardened, and kept in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate. . This extract of Meat makes excellent “ Tablettes de Bouillon,” for those who are obliged to endure long fasting. | : bis If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a little warm water—the mouldy taste does not penetrate the mass. ; If, after several days’ drying, it does not become so hard as you wish, put it into a Bainmarie Stewpan, or a Mulk-boiler, (these are made by Luoyn, Tinman, near Norfolk-Street, Strand,) till it is evaporated to the con- sistence you wish—or, set the Pots in a cool Oven, or in a Cheese Toaster, at a considerable distance from the . fire; this is the only safe way of reducing it very much, without the risk of its burning, and acquiring an ex- tremely disagreeable acrid flavour, &c. Obs.—The uses of this concentrated Essence of Meat are numerous. It is equally economical and conve- nient for making extempore the Broths enumerated in the Obs. to (No. 200.), Sauces and Gravies for Hashed or Stewed Meat, Game, or Poultry, &c. You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in (No. 329);— to make Gravy, Sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered for Broth. . If you have time and opportunity, as there is no seasoning in the Soup, either of Roots, Herbs, or Spice, boil an Onion with or without a bit of Parsley, and Sweet Herbs, and a few corns of Allspice, or other Spice, in the water you melt the Soup in, which may be flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 439),—or 286. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. Eshallot Wine (No. 402),— Essence of Sweet Herbs (No. 417),—Savoury Spice (Nos. 421, or 457),— Es- sence of Celery (No. 409), &c. or Zest (No. 255) ;— these may be combined in the proportions most agree- able to the palate of the Eater—and are as portable as Portable Soup, for a very small portion will flavour a Pint. The Editor adds nothing to the solution of this Soup, but a very little ground Black Pepper and some Salt. ? N.B. If you are a careful manager, you need not always purchase Meat on purpose to make this,— when you dress a large Dinner, you can make GLaZE at very small cost, by taking care of the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry you use; wash them well, put them into a Stewpan, cover them with the liquor you have boiled Meat in, and proceed as in the above Receipt; and see Obs. on (No. 185.) Ay Mem. This Portasie Soup is a most convenient article in Cookery — especially in Small Families, where it will save a great deal of time and trouble. It is also Economical, for no more will be melted than is wanted —so there is no- waste. : Nine pounds of Neck of Beef, costing 2s. 73d. ‘pro- duced nine‘ounces of very nice Soup; the Bones, when boiled, weighed 10 ounces. . Half an Ox Cheek, costing 1s. 9d. and weighing 143 pounds, produced 13 ounces—but not so firm or elear, and very inferjor in flavour to that obtamed from a Shin of Beef. , ' A Sheep's Head, costing 9d., produced three ounces and a half. Two pounds of lean Meat, from the Blade Bone of Beef, produced hardly an ounce. : The addition of an ounce of Gum Arabic, and two ounces of Isinglass, to four ounces of the extract from a Leg of Beef, considerably diminished ‘the consistence of the. mass, without adding to its bulk. BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 287 It hasbeen thought that the Portable Soup which is manufactured for sale—is partly made with Or Heels ; but the experiment (No. 198), proves this cannot be, as‘an ounce of the Jelly from Ox Heel costs 5d. For the cheapest method of procuring a hard Jelly, see N.B. to (No. 481) ;—19 Bones, costing 43d. produced three ounces :—almost as cheap as Salisbury Glue. We are informed, that there is now for sale at Leipsig —some Tuns of Portable Soup — for Two Shillings per pound. During the late war, there was a great deal imported into this country from Russia. A Knuckle of Veal, weighing 42 pounds, and costing 2s. 4d. produced five ounces. A Sutin or Brsr, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1s. 104d. produced nine ounces of concentrated Soup, sufficiently reduced to keep for several months. After the boiling, the Bones in this joint weighed two pounds: and a quarter, and the Meat two pounds and a quarter. The result of these Experiments is, that the product from Legs and Shins of Beef, was almost as large im quantity, and of much superior quality and flavour, to that obtained from any of the other materials ;—the flavour of the product from Mutton, Veal, &c. is com- paratively insipid. | As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality —and we could not find any proper and circum- stantial directions for making it, which on trial answered the purpose,—and it is really a great acquisition to the Army and Navy—to Travellers, Invalids, &c.— the Editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring to learn—and to teach how it may be prepared in the easiest,_most economical and perfect manner. The ordinary selling price is from 10s. to 12s. —but you may make it according to the above Receipt for 3s, 6d. per Pound—z. e. for 23d, per Ounce, which will make you a Pint of Broth. Those who do not regard the expense, and like the 288 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AN D:SOUPS: flavour, may add the lean of Ham, inthe proportion’ of a pound to eight pounds of Leg of Beef. 9.) 5) ener It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at ‘the time you put the Broth into. the smaller. Stewpan; Mushroom Catsup, Shallot Wine, Essences .of Spice: or Herbs, &c.;— we prefer it quite plain—it'is them - ready to be converted in an instant into a_basin of Beef Tea for an Invalid, and any flavour. may ‘be immediately communicated to. it by. the mosoaae of haste (No. 463.) tgatwG .baveq aq egaillide To Clarify Broth or hod a (No. 259,*). ‘ Put on the Broth in a. clean Stewpan, break.’ the white: and shell of an Egg, beat them together, put them into the Broth, stir it with a whisk; when it has boiled a few egriian strain It *imoughy a Tammis or a napkin. Obs. — A careful ipo vill: Belen have ¢ occasion to’ clarify her Broths, &c: if prepared COHN to phe: directions ate in | (No. 200. it Mi THE COOK’S ORACLE. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Melted Butter Is so simple and easy to prepare, it is a matter of general surprise, that what is done so often, in every English kitchen, is so seldom done right, — Foreigners may well say, that although we have only OnE Sauce for Vegetables, Fish, Flesh, Fowl, &c.— we hardly ever make that good. : It ts spoiled nine times out of ten, more from Idleness, than from Ignorance, and rather because the Cook won't than because she can’t do it, — which can only be the case when Housekeepers will not allow Butter to do it with. Goop MELTED Butter cannot be made with*mere flour and water ; there must be a_full and proper proportion of Butter.—As it must be always on the Table, and is THE FOUNDATION OF ALMOST ALL OUR ENGLISH saucts, I have tried every way of making it, and I trust, at last, that I have written a receipt, which, if the Cook will carefully observe, she will constantly succeed in giving satisfaction. In the quantities of the various Sauces 1 have ordered, I have had in view the providing for a Family of half a dozen moderate people. Never pour Sauce over Meat, or even put it into ae Dish ; — however well made, some of the Company may have an antipathy to it; Tastes are as different as Faces : — moreover, if itis sent up separate in a boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left may be put by for another time, or used for another purpose. O 290 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Lastly,—Observe, that,in ordering the proportions of Meat, Burter, Wine, Spice, &c. in the following receipts, the proper quantity is set down, and that a less quantity will not do ;—and insome instances, those Palates which have been used to the extreme of Piquance, will require additional excitement*. — If we have erred, it has been on the right side, from an anxious wish to combine Economy with Elegance, and the Wholesome with the Toothsome. The following we recommend as an elegant Relish to finish Soups and Sauces. ZEST, For Chops, Sauces, AND Made Dishes. (No. 955 *) ss This piguante quintessence of Ragout, imparts to whatever it touches the most delicious Relish ever imagined ;— it awakens | the Palate with delight,— refreshes Appetite,—and instantly | excites the good humour of (every man’s master) the Stomach. Soon made Savoury Sauce. ? Stir two drachms of ZEST into half a pint of melted butter 4 (No. 256.) Let it boil up, and strain it through a sieve; —or each Gnest may add it, at table, like Salt, and adjust the vibration -| of his Palate to his own Fancy. ~ Pa Sold at BuTLER’s Herb-shop, opposite Henrietta Street, Covent.» © Garden; where may be had “THE, COOK’s ORACLE.” ; It. will keep, for any time, in any Climate. } * This may be easily accomplished by the aid of the Whip and Spur that Students of long standing in the School of Good ‘Living are generally so fond of enlivening their palate with, 7. e. Cayenne and Garlick. : PARSLEY (No. 261),.GHERVIL (No./264), CunERY (No. 280), Cress (No. 397*) Tarracon (No. 396), BuRNET:+(No. 399), Bast (No..397), FEsHALLoT (Nos. 295 and 403), CAPER (Nos. 274 and 205), FENNEL (No. 265), Liver .(Nos. 287 and 288), Curry (Nos.-348.and.455), Eee; (No. 267), Musuroom (No. 403), ANCHOVY (Nos. 270 and 433), Raaour (Nos. 421 and 457), SHRoMP (No. 283), BONNE BoucHe’ (No. 341); SUPERLATIVE (No. 429), and various Flavouring Essences. .See from (No,..396.to 463). - Any of the above Vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to table on a little plate, and,those who like their flavour) may mix’ them with Melted Butter, &c. ‘This is a hint for Economists, which, will save them;many pounds of Butter, &c.. See MEM. to (No. 256.) + oe ype GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 291 Melted Butter. —.(No. 256.) - Keep.a pint stewpan* for this purpose only. » Cut two ounces of Butter into little bits, that it may meltmore easily, and mix more readily ;—put it into the stewpan with a large teaspoonful (2. e. about three drachms) of Flour, (some prefer Arrow Root or Potatoe Starch (No. 448), and two tablespoonsful of Milk. When thoroughly mixed, —add six tablespoonsful of water ; hold it over the fire, and shake it round every minute, (all the while the same way), till it just begins to\simmer, then let it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of the thickness of good cream. _ N.B. Two tablespoonsful of (No. 439) instead of the milk, will make as good Mushroom Sauce as need be, and is a Superlative accompaniment to either Fish,— Flesh, — or Fowl. Obs.—This is the best way of preparing: melted butter; —Milk mixes with the Butter: much more easily, and moresintimately than Water alone can be made ‘to do. This is of proper thickness to be mixed iat table with Flavourimg Essences, Anchovy, Mushroom, or Cavice, &c. If made merely to pour over Vegetables, add a little more milk to it. N.B. lf:the Burrer Ors, put a spoonful of cold water to it and stir it with a spoon, —if itis very much oiled, it must be:poured: backwards and forwards from the: Stewpan to the Sauceboat till it is right again. -Mzm. Melted Butter made to be mixed with fla- youring -Essences, Catsups, &c. should be of the thickness of light Batter, that it may adhere to the Fish, &c. Thickening. — (No. 257.) Clarified butter is best for this purpose; but if you have none ready, put some Fresh Butter into a stewpan over a slow clear fire ;—when it is melted, add fine Flour * A SILVER SAUCEPAN is infinitely the best,—you may have one big enough to melt butter for a moderate family forfour or five pounds. o 2 een. 292 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. sufficient to make it the thickness of paste; — stir it well together with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is quite smooth, and the colour of a Guinea: this must be done very gradually and patiently, if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it, it will become bitter and empyreumatic; pour it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a fortnight in Summer, and longer in Winter. A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a Quart of Gravy. ne 3 Obs.—This in the French kitchen is called Rous. Be particularly attentive in making of it; if it gets any burnt smell or taste, it will spoil every thing it is put into, see Obs. to (No. 322). When cold, it should be thick. enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid paste. . It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is the basis of consistency in most made dishes, soups, sauces, and ragouts : —- if the Gravies, &c. are too thin, add this Thickening, more or less, according to the consistence you would wish them to have. Mem. In making Thickening,—the less Butter, and the more Flour youuse, the better;—they must be thoroughly worked together, and the broth, or soup, &c. you put them to, added by degrees ;—take especial care to incor- porate them well together, or your sauces, &c. will taste floury, and have a disgusting, greasy appearance ;— therefore, after you have thickened your sauce, add to it some broth, or warm water, in the proportion of two ‘tablespoonsful to a pint, and set it by the side of the fire, to raise any fat, &c. that is not thoroughly incor- porated with the gravy, which you must carefully remove as it comes to the top. This is called cleansing, or finishing the sauce. . A jer : * * Half an ounce of Butter, and a, tablespoonful of Flour, are about the proportions for a pint of Sauce, to make it as thick as Cream. N.B. The Fat Skimmings off the top of the Broth Pot GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 293 are.sometimes substituted for Butter, see (No. 240), — some Cooks merely thicken their Soups and Sauces with Flour, as we have directed in (No. 245), or Potatoe Farina (No. 448.) Clarified Butter. — (No. 259.) Put the Butter in a nice clean stewpan, over a very clear slow fire, watch it, and when it is melted, carefully skim off the ecermilk, &c. which will ee on the top; —let it stand a minute or two, for the impurities to sink to the bottom,— then pour the clear butter through a sieve, into a clean basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the stewpan. _ Obs.—Butter thus purified, will be as sweet as Marrow, —a very useful covering for Potted Meats, &c. and for frying Fish, equal to the finest Florence oil, for which purpose it is commonly used by Catholics, and those whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands fried in animal oil. Burnt Butter.— (No. 260.) Put two ounces of fresh Butter into a small fryingpan, when it becomes a dark brown colour, add to it a tablespoonful and a half of good vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Obs.—This is used as sauce for boiled Fish, or poached Eggs. Oiled Butter.—(No. 260.*) Put two ounces of fresh Butter into a saucepan, set it at a distance from the fire, so that it may melt gradually, till it comes to an Oil, — and pour it off quietly from the dregs. Obs.-— This will supply the place of Olive Oil, and by some is preferred to it, either for Salads, or Frying. Parsley and Butter.—(No. 261.) Wash some Parsley very clean, and pick it carefully 994 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. leaf by leaf; put a teaspoonful of salt into half a pint | of boiling water, boil the Parsley about ten minutes, drain it on a sieve, mince it quite fine, and then bruise _ it toa pulp. The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent Relish, depends upon the Parsley being minced very fine; — put it into a sauce boat, and mix with it by degrees about half a pint of eood melted butter, (No. 256), only do not put so'much flour to it, as the Parsley will add to its thickness,—never pour Parsley and Butter over boiled things,, but send it up in a Boat. Obs.—In French Cookery Books, this is atta “« Melted Butter, English fashion,” and, with the addition of a slice of lemon cut into dice, a little Allspice and Vinegar, “ Dutch Sauce.” N.B. To presERvVE Parstiey through the winter,— in May, June or July, take fine fresh gathered sprigs, pick and wash them clean, set on a stewpan half full of water, put a little saltin it, boil and scum it clean, and then put in the Parsley and let it boil for a couple of minutes, and take it out and lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may be dried as. quick as’ possible;— put it by in a Tin Box, and keep it ina dry place,— when you want it, lay it in a Basin, and cover it with warm water a few minutes before you use it. Gooseberry Sauce. — (No. 263.) Top and tail them close with a pair of Scissars, and scald half a pint of green Gooseberries, drain them on a hair sieve, and put them into half a pint of tueltod Butter (No. 256.) Some add grated Ginger and eo Peel, and, the French, minced Fennel, — others send up the Goose- berries iio let or wiacheda without any butter, &c. CHERVIL,— BasiL,—TAaRRAGON, — BURNET,— Cress, —and Butrer.—(No. 264.) This is the first time that Chervil, which has so long * GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 295 been a favourite with the sagacious French Cook, has been introduced into an English book. — Its flavour is a strong concentration of the combined taste of Parsley and Fennel, but more aromatic and agreeable than either; and:is an excellent sauce with boiled Poultry or: Fish, Prepare it, &c., as we have directed for Parsley and Butter, (No. 261.) Fennel.and Butter for Mackarel, &c.— (Nox 265.) Is prepared in ‘the same manner ‘as’ we have’ just described in (No. 261.) Obs. — For Mackarel sauce, or boiled Soles, &c.— some people take equal parts of Fennel and Parsley ;— others add a sprig of Mint,—or a couple of young Onions:minced very fine. Mackarel Roe Sauce.—(No. 266.) Boil the Roes of Mackarel, (soft roes are best,) bruise them with a spoon. with the yolk of an Ege, beat up with a very little pepper, and salt, and some Fennel and Parsley boiled and chopped very fine, mixed with almost half a pint of thin melted butter, see (No. 256.) — Mushroom catsup, Walnut. pickle, or Soy, may be added. ‘ , Egg Sauce. —(No. 267.) This agreeable accompaniment to roasted Poultry,— or salted Fish,—is made by putting three Eggs. into boiling water, and boiling them for about twelve minutes, when they will be hard, put them into cold water till you want them,— this will make the Yolks firmer, and pre- vent their surface turning black, and you'can cut them much neater; — use only two of the Whites; cut the Whites into small dice,—the Yolks, into bits about.a quarter of an inch square, — put them into a Sauce- boat, pour to them half a pint of melted Butter, and stir them ‘together. Obs.— The Melted Butter for Ege Sauce need not be made quite-so thick as (No. 256.) 296 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. N.B. Some Cooks garnish Salt Fish with hard boiled eggs cut in half. Plum Pudding Sauce. dal 7 269.) A glass of Sherry, half a glass of Brandy, (or ** Cherry-Bounce,”) or Curagoa (No. 474), or Essence of Punch (No. 471 and 479), and two teaspoonsful of pounded lump sugar, (a very little grated Lemon Peel is sometimes added), in a quarter of a pint of Thick melted butter: grate Nutmeg on the top. See Pudding Catsup, (No. 446.) Anchovy Sauce. —(No. 270.) Pound three Anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of Butter, rub it through a double Hair sieve, with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into almost half a pint of Melted butter (No. 256); or, stir in a table- spoonful of Essence of Anchovy (No.433.)—To the above many cooks add Lemon Juice, and Cayenne. Obs. — Foreigners make this Sauce with good Brown Sauce (No. 329), or White Sauce (No. 364), instead of melted Butter,—and add to it Catsup, —Soy, — and some of their flavoured Vinegars, as Elder or Tarragon, — Pepper and fine Spice, — Sweet herbs, — Capers, — Eshallots, &c. They serve it with most Roasted Meats, N.B. Keep your Anchovies well covered, first tie down your Jar with Bladder moistened with vinegar, and then wiped dry, tie Leather over that,— when you open a Jar, moisten the bladder, and it will come off easily, — as soon as you have taken out the Fish, replace the coverings, — the Air soon rusts and spoils Anchovies. See (No. 433, &c.) Garlick Sauce. —(No. 272.) . Pound two cloves of Garlick with a piece of fresh Butter about as big as a Nutmeg; rub it through a double hair sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 297 - butter, or Beef Gravy; or make it with Garlick Vinegar (No. 400), (Nos. 401 and 402.) _ Lemon Sauce. — (No. 273.) _ Pare a Lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crown piece; divide these into Dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint of Melted Butter (No. 256.) Obs. — Some Cooks mince a bit of the Lemon Peel (pared very thin) very fine, and add it to the above. Caper Sauce. — (No. 274.) See also (No. 295.) _ To make a Quarter Pint, — take a tablespoonful of Capers, and two teaspoonsful of Vinegar. The present fashion of cutting Capers, —is to mince one third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put them into a quarter of a pint of melted Butter, or good thickened Gravy (No. 329), — stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or ‘it will oil. Obs.— Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of Parsley, or Chervil, or Tarragon, and add these to the sauce ;— others the juice of half a Seville Orange, or Lemon. Mem.— Keep the Caper bottle very closely corked, and do not use any of the Caper liquor ;— if the Capers are not well covered with it, they will immediately spoil, and it is an excellent ingredient in Hashes, &c. The Dutch use it as a Fish Sauce, mixing it with Melted butter. Mock Caper Sauce. — (No. 275 or 295.) Cut some pickled Green Pease,—French Beans,— Gherkins,—or Nastertiums, into bits the size of Capers ; put them into half a pint of melted butter, with two teaspoonsful of Lemon juice, or nice Vinegar. Oyster Sauce. — (No. 278.) Choose Plump and Juicy Natives for this purpose ;—— don’t take them out of their Shell till you put them into the Stewpan, see Obs. to (No. 181.) 05 298 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: To make good Oyster Sauce for half a dozen hearty Fish-Eaters, you cannot have less than three or four’ dozen Oysters.—Save their Liquor, strain it, and put it and them into a stewpan; as soon as they boil and the fish plump, take them off the Fire, and pour the contents of the stewpan into a sieve over a clean basin, wash the stewpan out with hot water, and put into it the strained liquor, with about an equal quantity of Milk, and about two ounces and a half of Butter, with which you have well rubbed a large tablespoonful of Flour, — give it a boil up, and pour it through a sieve into a basin, (that the Sauce may be quite smooth,) and then back again into the saucepan, — now, shave the Oysters, and (if you have the honour of making sauce for *‘ a Committee of Taste,” take away the gristly part also, and) put mm only the soft part of the Oysters, Qf they are very large cut them in half,) and set them by the side of the fire to keep hot, “ if they boil after, they will become hard.” If you have not Liquor enough, add a little Melted Butter, or Cream, see (No. 388), or Milk beat up with the yolk of an Eg, (this must not be put in till the sauce is done.) Some Cooks add Pepper,—or Mace,— some juice or peel of a Lemon,— Horseradish,—Essence of Anchovy,—Cayenne, &c. ; but one of our Culinary maxims is, that Plain Sauces are only to taste of the Ingredient from which they derive their name,—perhaps if this Sauce is made FOR STEAKS, some grated or finely scraped Horseradish, or a little good Mushroom Gatsup (No. 439), may be a laudable combimation, Obs. —It will very much heighten the flavour of this Sauce, to pound the soft part of half a dozen (unboiled) Oysters, rub it through a hair sieve, and then stir it into the sauce:— this Essence or Oyster (and for some palates a few grains of Cayenne) is the only addition we recommend to increase the ane en of this sauce. See (No. 441.) GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 299, Preserved Oysters. — (No. 280.) Open.the, Oysters. carefully, so as not to cut them except in dividing the gristle which attaches the shells, —put them into a Mortar, and when you have got as many as you can conveniently pound at: once, add about.two- drachms of Salt.to 1a dozen Oysters,— pound them.and rub them. through the back of a hair sieve, and, put them into.a mortar again, with as much Flour (which has. been previously thoroughly dried) as will make-them-into a paste, roll it out several times, and lastly, flour it and roll it out the thickness of a half crown, and divide it into pieces about an inch square, lay them in a Dutch oven, where they will dry so gently as not to get burned, — turn them every half hour, and when they begin to dry, crumble them, — they will take about four hours to dry, — then pound them fine, — sift them and put into bottles, and seal them over. N: B. Turee pozen Natives required 73 ounces of dried Flour to make them into a paste, which then weighed 11 ounces, when dried and powdered, 6} ounces. . _To make halfa pint of Sauce, put one ounce of Butter into.a stewpan, with three drachms of Oyster powder, and six tablespoonsful of milk; set iton a slow fire, stir it till it boils, and season it with salt. This Powder, if made with Plump Juicy Natives, will abound with the flavour of the Fish, and if closely corked, and kept in a dry place, will remain good for some time. | Obs. — This Extract, is a welcome succedaneum while Oysters are out of season, and in such inland parts as seldom have any, is a valuable addition to the ‘list of Fish sauces: it is equally good with boiled Fowl, or Rump Steak, — and sprinkled on Bread and Butter makes a very good Sandwich, and is especially worthy the notice of Country Housekeepers — and as a Store Sauce for the Army and Navy. See Anchovy Powder (No. 435.) 300 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Shrimp Sauce. —(No. 283.) Shell a pint of Shrimps, pick them clean, wash them, and put them into half a pint of good Melted Butter. : Obs.—Some stew the Heads and shells of the Shrimps, (with or without a blade of bruised Mace,) for a quarter of an hour, and strain off the liquor to melt the butter with, and add a little Lemon Juice, — Cayenne, —and ‘ Béeence of Anchovy,— or Soy,— Cavice, &c.,— but the Flavour of the Shrimp is so delicate, it will be overcome by any of those additions. Lobster Sauce. —(No. 284.) . Choose a fine spawny Hen Lobster*, be sure it is fresh, so get a live one if you can, (one of my culinary predecessors says, “let it be heavy and lively,”) and boil it as (No. 176), pick out the Spawn and the Red Coral into a mortar, add to it half an ounce of Butter, pound it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; cut the meat of the Lobster into small squares, or pull it to pieces with a fork, put the pounded Spawn into as much melted Butter (No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it together till it is thoroughly mixed, — now put to it the meat of the Lobster, and warm it on the fire, take care it does not boil, which will sport its complexion, and tts brilliant Red colour will emmediately fade. The above is a very easy and excellent manner of making this Sauce. Some use strong Beef or Veal Gravy instead. ‘of melted Butter, adding Anchovy, Cayenne, CaHe, Cavice, Lemon juice or pickle, or Wine, &c. * You must have a Hen Lobster, on account of the Live Spawn,—some Fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the Fish, before they are boiled ;— lift up the tail of the Lobster, and see that it has not ‘been robbed of its Eggs ; ;— the goodness of your Sauce depends upon its having a full share of the : Spawn in it, to which it owes not merely its adel eam seen but the finest part of its\ Flavour. ory GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 301 » Obs:— Save a little of the inside Red Coral Spawn, ~and rub it through a sieve (without butter);—it is a very ornamental garnish to sprinkle over Fish; and if the skin is broken, (which will sometimes happen to the most careful Cook, when there is a large dinner to dress, and many other things to attend to,) you will find it a convenient and elegant Veil, to conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous Gour- mands. N.B. Various methods have been tried To PRESERVE Logsters, see (No. 178), and Lobster Spawn, for a Store Sauce. The Live Spawn may be kept some time in strong Salt and Water — or in an Ice-House. The following process might, perhaps, preserve it longer :— Put it into a Saucepan of boiling water, with a large spoonful of Salt in it, and let it boil quick for five minutes; then drain it on a hair sieve, spread it out thin on a plate, and set it in a Dutch Oven till it is thoroughly dried, — grind it in a clean mill, and pack it closely in well-stopped Bottles. See also Potted Lobsters, (No. 178.) Sauce for Lobster, §c.—(No. 285.) See also (No. 372.) Bruise the yolks of two hard boiled Eggs with the back of a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in a mortar, with a teaspoonful of water, and the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster, rub them quite smooth, with a teaspoonful of made Mustard, two tablespoonsful of Salad Oil, and five of Vinegar; season it with a very little Cayenne pepper and some salt. Obs.—To this, Elder or Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), or Anchovy Essence (No. 433), is occasionally added. Liver and Parsley Sauce, —(No. 287.) — or Liver and Lemon Sauce. Wash the Liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a Fowl or Rabbit, and boil it five minutes in five tablespoonsful of water;—chop it fine; or pound or bruise it in a 302. GRAVIES AND SAUOES: . small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through a sieve :—~wash about one-third the bulk of Parsley leaves, put them on to boil in a little’ boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt init; lay it on a hair sieve to drain, and mince it very fine; “mix! it with the liver; and put it into a quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it-up ;—do not let it boil. Or, To make Lemon and Liver Sauce, ~ Pare off the rind of a Lemon, or of a Seville Orange, as thin as possible, so as not to cut off any of the White with it;—now cut off all the White, and» cut the Lemon into slices, about.as thick as a couple of half-crowns; pick out the peps, and divide the slices into. small squares; add these, and a little of the peel mineed very fine, to the Liver, prepared as: directed above, and: put them into the melted Butter, and warm them together, -—but do not let them boil. N. B, The Poulterers. can. always.let you have fresh Livers— if that of the Fowl or Rabbit is not good, or not large enough to make as much Sauce as you wish. Obs.—- Some Cooks, instead of pounding,—mince the Liver. very fine (with half as much Bacon),..and leave out the Parsley,—others add the juice of half-a Lemon, and some of the Peel grated,—or a teaspoon- ful of Tarragon or Chili Vinegar, a tablespoonful of White Wine, or a little beaten Mace or Nutmeg, or Allspice :—if you wish. it a little more lively on the palate, pound a Shallot, or a few leaves of Tarragon or Basil, with.Anchovy or Catsup, or Cayenne. Laver Sauce for Fish. — (No. 288.) Boil the Liver of the Fish, and pound it in’a mortar with a little flour, stir it into some Broth, or some of the liquor the Fish was boiled in, or melted Butter, Parsley, and a few grains of Cayenne,—a little Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), or Soy, or Catsup (No. 439);— GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 303 give it a boil up, ‘and-rub it through a sieve: you may add a little Lemon Juice —or Lemon cut in dice: Celery Sauce, White. — (No. 289.) . Pick and wash two heads of nice white Celery; cut it into pieces about an inch long ; stew it in a pint of water, and a teaspoonful of salt, till the Celery: is tender*; roll an ounce of butter sd thy a tablespoonful of flour; add this to half a pint of cream, and give it:a boil up. N. B. See (No. 409.) Celery Sauce, Purée, for boiled Turkey, Veal, Fouls,.&c. (No. 290.) Cut small half a dozen heads of nice white Celery that is quite clean, and two Onions sliced; put. in a two-quart Stewpan, with a small lump of Butter ; sweat them over a slow fire till quite tender, then put in two spoonsful of flour, half a pint of water (or Beef or Veal Broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or milk ; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass through a fine hair sieve with the back of a spoon. If you wish for Celery sauce, when Celery | is not in Season, a quarter of a drachm of Celery-seed, or a little Essence of Celery (No. 409), will impregnate half a pint of sauce with all the flavour of the Vegetable, . See Obs. to (No. 214.) Green, or Sorrel Sauce. —(No. 291.) Wash and clean a large Ponnet of Sorrel, put it into a Stewpan’ that will just hold it, with a bit of Butter the size of an Egg, cover it dose: set it overa slow fire for a quarter of an hour, pass the Sorrel with the back of a wooden spoon through a hair sieve, season with Pepper, Salt, and a small pinch of pow- dered Sugar, make it hot, and serve up,under Lamb, * So much depends upon the age of the Celery, we cannot give any precise time for this. Young fresh-gathered Celery will be enough in three quarters of an hour ; old will sometimes take twice as long. 304 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Veal, Sweatbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, Nutmeg, and Lemon Juice, are sometimes added. . Tomata, or Love-apple Sauce.— (No. 292.) See also | (No. 443.) Vie Have twelve or fifteen Tomatas ripe, and red; take off the stalk; cut them in half; squeeze them just enough to get all the water and seeds out; put them in a stewpan, with a Capsicum, and two or three tablespoonsful of Beef Gravy; set them on a slow stove for an hour, or till properly melted; then rub them through a tammis into a clean stewpan, with a little white pepper and salt, and let them simmer together a few minutes. N.B. To the above the French Cook adds an Onion or Eshallot, a Clove or two, or a little Tarragon Vinegar. Mock Tomata Sauce. — (No. 293.) The only difference between this, and genuine Love- apple Sauce, is the substituting the pulp of Apple for _ that of Tomata, colouring it with Turmeric, and com- municating an acid flavour to it by vinegar. Shallot Sauce. — (No. 294.) Take four Shallots, and make it in the same manner. as Garlic Sauce (No. 272.) ms Or, You may make this sauce more extemporaneously, by putting two tablespoonsful of Shallot Wine (No. 403), and a sprinkling of Pepper and Salt, into (almost) half a pint of thick melted Butter. Obs.— This is an excellent Sauce for Chops, or Steaks,— many are very fond of it with roasted or Boiled Meat, Poultry, &c. Shallot Sauce, for Boiled Mutton. —(No. 295.) This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for “ Caper Sauce.” GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 305 Mince four Shallots very fine, and-put them into a small saucepan, with almost half a pint of the liquor the Mutton was boiled in; let them boil up for five minutes ;—then put in a tablespoonful of Vinegar, a quarter teaspoonful of Pepper, a little Salt, and a bit of Butter (as big as a walnut) rolled in flour; shake together, till it boils. See (No. 402), Eshallot Wine. Obs.— We like a little Lemon Peel with Shallot ;— the Haut-Gotit of the latter is much ameliorated by the delicate Aroma of the former. Some Cooks add a little finely chopped Parsley. , Young Onion Sauce.— (No. 296.) Peel a pint of Button Onions, and put them in water till you want to put them on to boil; put them ina stewpan, with a quart of cold water; let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and age) from half an hour to an hour. You may put them into half a pint of (No. 307.) See also (No. 137.) Onion Sauce. —(No. 297.) Those who like the full flavour of Onions, only cut off the strings and tops (without peeling off any of the skins), put them into salt and water, and let them lie an hour; then wash them, put them into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, pass them through a cullender, and mix a little melted Butter with them. _N.B. Some mix the pulp of Apples, or Turnips, with the Onions, —others add Mustard to them. White Onion Sauce. — (No. 298.) The following is a more mild and delicate* prepara- tion: — Take half a dozen of the largest, and whitest Onions, (the Spanish are the mildest, but these can * If you wish to have them very mild, cut them in quarters, boil them for five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cook them in fresh water, oy, a cal ae a ee 306 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: only be had from. Avoust to. December,)—peel’ them, and cut them in half, and lay them in a pan’ of spring water for a quarter of an hour, and then’ boil them tender, which will sometimes take an hour, drain them well’ on 'a-hair sieve, lay them on the chopping-board and chop ‘and bruise them, put them into a clean saucepan, with some Butter and Flour, ‘half a tea- spoonful of salt, and some Cream, or good milk; stir it till it boils; then rub the whole through a tammy or sieve, adding cream or milk, to make it the consistence you wish. Obs.—This is the usual sauce for boiled Rabbits,— Mutton,— or Tripe.— There must be plenty of it; the usual expression signifies as much, for we say, smother them‘ with it; Brown Onion Sauce, or Onion Gravy. —(No, 299.) Peel and slice the Onions (some ‘put*in ‘an equa} quantity of Cucumber or Celery) into a quart'stewpan, with an ounce of Butter; set it on a slow fire, and turn the Onion about till it is very lightly browned ; now gradually stir in half an ounce’ of Flour; add a little broth, anda little pepper and salt; boil up for a few minutes, add.a tablespoonful of Claret, or Port wine, and same of Mushroom Catsup, — (you may sharpen it witha little Lemon Juice or Vinegar) —and rub it through a tammy, or fine sieve. . Curry Powper (No. 348), will convert this’ into excellént Curry Sauce. N.B. If this Saucr 1s ror STEAKS, shred an ounce of Onions, fry them a nice brown, and put them to the sauce yon have rubbed through a tammy;-—or some | very small round young silver Button. Onions, see (No. 296), peeled and boiled tender,’and put im whole when your Sauce is done, will be an acceptable addition. Obs.—If you have no Broth, put in half a pint of water, and see (No. 252) ;— just before you give it the last boil up, add to it another tablespoonful of Mush- GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 307 room Catsup, or the same quantity of Port Wine or good Ale. The flavour of this Sauce may be varied by adding Tarragon or Burnet Vinegar, aba 396 and 399.) Sage and Onion, or Goosesstupiriz Sauce. — (No. 300.) Chop very fine an ounce of Onion and half an ounce of green Sage leaves, put them into a stewpan with four spoonsful of water, simmer gently for ten minutes, then put in a teaspoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce of fine bread-crumbs; mix well together ;— then pour to it a quarter of a pint of (Broth, or Gravy, or) Melted Butter, stir well together, and simmer it a few minutes longer. Obs. — This is a very relishing Sauce for Roast Pork, Geese, or Ducks; or Green Pease on Maigre Days. See also Bonne Bouche for the above, (No. 341.) - Green Mint Sauce. — (No. 303.) Wash half a handful of nice young fresh-gathered Green Mint, (to this some add one-third the quantity of Parsley,) pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a sauceboat, with a teaspoonful of moist Sugar, and four tablespoonsful of Vinegar. Obs. — This is the usual accompaniment to Hot Lamb;—and an equally agreéable relish with : Cole Lamb. : If Green Mint cannot be procured, this sauce eed be made with Mint Vinegur, (No. 398.) Apple Sauce. — (No, 304.) Pare and core three good sized baking Apples, put them into a well-tinned pint saucepan, with two table- spoonsful of cold water; cover the saucepan’ close, and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of hours before dinner,—some Apples will take a long time 308 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. stewing,—others will be ready in a quarter of an hour :—when the Apples are done enough, pour off the water, let them stand a few minutes to get dry; then beat them up with a Fork, with a bit of Butter about as big as a Nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of pow- dered Sugar. | N.B. Some add Lemon Peel, grated, or minced fine, — or boil a bit with the Apples. Mushroom Sauce.— (No. 305.) Pick and peel half a pint of Mushrooms (the smaller the better), wash them very clean, and put them into a saucepan with half a pint of Veal Gravy or Milk, a little Pepper and Salt, and an ounce of Butter rubbed with a tablespoonful of Flour, stir them together, and set them over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender; —skim and strain it. Obs.— It will be a great improvement to this, and the two following Sauces, to add to them the juice of half a dozen Mushrooms, prepared the day before, by sprinkling them with salt, the same as when you make Catsup; or add a large spoonful of good Double Mushroom Catsup, (No. 439.) See QuINTESSENCE oF Musurooms, (No. 440.) N.B. Much as we love the flavour of Mushrooms,— we must enter our protest against their being eaten in substance, — when the morbid effects they produce too often prove them worthy of the appellations Seneca gave them, “ Voluptuous Poison,” “ lethal luxury,” &c.; and we caution those who cannot refrain from indulging their palate with the seducing relish of this deceitful Fungus, to masticate it diligently. We do not believe that Mushrooms are nutritive,— every one knows they are often dangerously indi- gestible,— therefore the Rational Epicure will be con- tent with extracting the flavour from them—which is obtained in the utmost perfection by the process directed in (No, 439.) GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 309 Mushroom Sauce, Brown. —(No. 306.) Put the Mushrooms into half a pint of Beef Gravy (No. 186), or (No. 329); thicken with Flour and But- ter; and proceed as above. | Mushroom Sauce, Extempore.—(No. 307.) Proceed as directed in (No. 256), to melt Butter,— only, instead of two tablespoonsful of Milk, put in two of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439 or 40);—or add it to thickened Broth, Gravy, or Mock Turtle Soup, &c.— or put in (No. 296.) Obs. This is a welcome Relish with Fish— Poultry —or Chops and Steaks, &c. A couple of Quarts of good Catsup (No. 439), will make more good Sauce than ten times its cost of Meat, &c. Walnut Catsup will give you another variety; and Bauu’s Cavicez, which is excellent, and sold at No. 81, New Bond-Street. Poor Man’s Sauce. —(No. 310.) Pick a handful of Parsley leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, strew over a little salt; shred fine half a dozen young green Onions, add these to the Parsley, and put them into a sauceboat, with three tablespoonsful of Oil, and five of Vinegar; add some ground Black Pepper and marks stir together, and send it up. Pickled French Beans or Ghretking, cut fine, may be added — or a little grated Horser adish. Obs. — This Sauce is'in much esteem in France, where people of taste, weary of rich dishes, to obtain the charm of variety, occasionally order the fare of the Peasant. * The Rich, tir’d with continual Feasts, ** For change become their next poor Tenant’s guests; *€ Drink hearty draughts of Ale from plain brown bowls, ** And snatch the homely Rasher from the Coals.” Dryven’s Prologue to “ All for Love.” 310 GRAVIES AND SAUOES. The Spamard’s Garlick Gracy. —(No. 311.) See also . (No. 272.) Slice a pound and a half of Veal, or Beef, , pepper and salt it, lay it in a stewpan witha ‘couple of Carrots split, and four cloves of Garlick sliced, a quarter pound of sliced Ham, and a large spoonful of water ;—-set the stewpan over a gentle fire, and watch when the meat begins to stick to the pan; when it does, turn it, and let it be very well browned, (but take care it is. net at all burnt;) then dredge it with flour, and. pour in a quart of broth, a bunch of Sweet Herbs, a: couple of Cloves bruised: and. slice in a Lemon; set it on again, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half longer; then take off the fat, and strain the gravy from the ingredients, by pouring it through a napkin, straining, and pressing it very hard, Obs.—-This, it is said, was the secret of the Old Spaniard, who kept the House called by that name on Hampstead Heath. Those who love Garlick, will find it an extremely rich relish, ‘Mr. Micuatt KeEiuy’s* Sauce for Boiled Tripe, Calf-head, or Cow-heel.—(No. 311.*) Garlick Vinegar, a tablespoonful, — of ‘Mustard, Brown Sugar, and Black Pepper, a teaspoonful each ; stirred into half a pint of oiled melted butter. Mr. Keiuy’s Sauce Piquante. Pound a tablespoonful of Capers, —and one of minced Parsley,—as ‘fine as possible; then add the yolks of three hard Eggs, rub them well together with a tablespoonful of Mustard, —bone six Anchovies, and pound them, rub them through a hair sieve, and mix with two tablespoonsful of Oil, one’ of Vinegar, * Composer and Director of the Music at the i aes Drury- Lane, and the\ltalian Opera... pe © eres Ae GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 311 one of Shallot ditto, and a few grains. of Cayenne Pepper; rub all these well together in a mortar, till thoroughly incorporated, then stir them into half a pint of good Gravy, or melted Butter, and put the whole through a sieve. _: Fried Parsley. —(No.:317.) » Let it ha nicely picked and washed, then put into a cloth, and swung backwards and forwards till ‘it is perfectly. dry;—- put it into a pan of hot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the moment it is crisp, (in another moment it will be spoilt;) put it on a sieve, or coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. Crisp Parsley.— (No. 318.) ' Pick and wash young Parsley, shake it in.a dry cloth to drain the water from it; spread it on a ‘sheet of clean paper, in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn wt frequently until it is quite crisp.—This-is a much more easy way of preparing it than Frying it,—which is not seldom ill done. Obs.—A. very pretty garnish for Lamb Chops, Fish, &o. Fried Bread Sippets. —(No. 319.) ‘Cut a slice of Bread about a quarter of an inch thick, divide it with a sharp knife into pieces two inches square ;—shape these into Triangles or Crosses: —put some very clean Fat into an iron Fryingpan; when it is hot, put in the sippets, and fry them a delicate light brown; take them up with a Fish-slice, and drain them well from Fat, turning them occasion- ally ;—this will take a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan’at such a distance from the fire, that the fat may be hot ‘enough to brown without burning ; — this is a requisite precaution in frying delicate thin things. Obs.—-These are a pretty Garnish, and very welcome accompaniment and improvement. to the finest MADE Disnes:—they may also be sent up with Pease and 312 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. other Soups ; — but when intended for Sours, the Bread must be cut into bits, about half an inch square. N.B. If these are not done very delicately clean and dry, they are uneatable. Fried Bread-Crumbs, —(No. 320.) Rub Bread (which has been baked two days) through a wire sieve, or Cullender;— or you may rub them in a cloth till they are as fine as if they had been grated, and sifted ;— put them into a stewpan with a couple of ounces of Butter, place it over a moderate fire, and stir them about with a wooden spoon till they are the colour of a Guinea; spread them on a sieve, and let them stand ten minutes to drain, turning them fre- quently. Obs.—Fried Crumbs are sent up with roasted Sweet- breads, — or Larks, — Pheasants, — Partridges, — Woodcocks, — and Grouse, — or Moor Game, — espe- cially if they have been kept long enough. Bread Sauce. — (No. 321.) Put a small.teacupful of Bread-Crumbs into a stew- pan, pour on it as much milk as it will soak up, and a little more; or, instead of the milk, take the Giblets, head, neck, aay legs, &c. of the "Poultry, &c. and stew them, and moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on the fire, with a middling sized Onion, and a dozen berries of Pepper or Allspice, and a little Mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and let it simmer till it is quite stiff, and then put to it about two tablespoonsful of Cream or melted Butter, or a little good Broth; take out the Onion and Pepper, and it is ready. Obs. — This is an excellent accompaniment to Game and Poultry, &c. and a good vehicle for receiving va- rious flavours from THE MaGazineE or TasTE(No. 463.) Rice Sauce. — (No. 321.*) Steep a quarter pound of Rice in a pint of milk, with Onion, Pepper, &c. as in the last receipt ; when GRAVIES AND SAUCES. oie the Rice is quite tender (take out the spice), rub it through ‘a sieve into a clean stewpan; if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it. Obs.—This is a’ very delicate White sauce ;—and at elegant tables, is frequently served instead of Bread Sauce. ilies ~ Brownine — (No. 322.) Is a very convenient article to colour those Soups or Sauces, of which it is supposed their deep brown com- plexion denotes the strength and savouriness of the composition. Burnt Sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the Brewers, who use it under the name of “ Essentia Bina” to colour their Beer ;—it is also employed by the Brandy makers, in considerable quantity, to colour Brandy ; to which, besides enriching its complexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught Brandy drinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cugnzac in its genuine state. When employed for Culinary Purposes, this is some- times made with strong Gravy, or Walnut Catsup. Those who like a got of Acid may add a little Walnut Pickle. It will hardly be told from what is commonly called “¢ genuine Japanese Soy*,” for which it is a very good substitute. Burnt Treacle, or Sugar, —- the Peels of Walnuts, — Cayenne pepper, — or Capsicums, — or Chillies, — Vinegar, — Garlick, — and pickled Her- rings, (especially the Dutch) — Sardinias, — or Sprats, —appear to be the bases of almost all the Sauces which now, to use the maker’s phrase,—stand unri- valled. Although indefatigable research and experiment has put us in possession of these compositions,—it would not be quite fair, to enrich the Cook, at the expense * & By the best accounts I can find, Soy isa preparation-from the seeds of a species of the Dolichos, prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt.” — CULLEN’s Mat. Med, vol. i. p, 430. P 314 GRAVIES AND SAUCES, of the Oilman, &c. — we hope we have said enough-on these subjects, to satisfy ‘‘ the Rational Epicure.” Put half a pound of pounded Lump Sugar, and a tablespoonful of water, into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour, and it begins to smoke; then'add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees with water, till it is. the thickness of Soy; let it boil, take off the scum, and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be well stopped: if you have not any of this by you, and you wish to darken the colour of your sauces, pound a teaspoonful of lump sugar, and put into an iron spoon, with as much water as will dissolve it; hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a very dark brown atgnes mix it with the soup, &c. while it is hot. Obs.— Most of the preparations under this title are amedley of Burnt Butter, —Spices,-—Catsup,__Wine, &c. We recommend the Rational Epicure to be content with the natural colour of Soups and Sauces, which, to a well-educated Palate, are much more agreeable, with- out any of these empyreumatic additions ;— however they may please the Eye, they plague the Stomach most grievously, so ‘‘ open your Mouth, and shut your Eyes.’ i or the sake of producing a pretty colour, “ Cheese,” —Cayenne (No. 404),—“ Essence of Anchovy,” (No. 433), &c. are frequently adulterated with a colouring matter containing Red Lead! !—See Accum on the Adultera- tion of Food, 2d Edit. 12mo. 1820. A scientific ‘‘ homme de bouche de France” observes— “« The generality of Cooks calcine Bones, till they are as black as a Coal, and throw them hissing hot into the stewpan, to give a brown colour to their Broths. These ingredients, under the appearance of a nourish- ing Gravy, envelop our food with stimulating acid and corrosive Poison. Roux or Thickening (No. 257), if not made very GRAVIES AND SAUCES; 315 carefully, produces exactly the same effect; and the juices of Beef, or Veal, burnt over.a hot fire, to give a rich colour to Soup or Sauces, grievously offend the Stomach, and create the most distressing Indigestions. The judicious Cook. will, refuse the help: of these incendiary articles; which ignorance, or quackery, only employ, — not only at the expense of the credit of the cook, but the health of her employers.” N.B. The vest BRowNING is good Home-made Glaze (No. 252), — Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), —. or Claret, or Port Wine. See also (No. 257);—or cut the meat into slices, and broil: them wesigee: and then stew them. Gravy for Roast Meat. — (No, 326.) _ Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &c. to make half a pint of plain Gravy, which you may colour with a few drops of (No. 322);— for those that do not, about half an hour before you think the meat will be done, mix a saltspoonful of Salt, with a full quarter pint of boiling Water; drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the joint ; set a dish under to catch it, (the meat will soon brown again); set it by,—as it cools, the fat will settle on the surface; when the meat is ready, remove this, and warm up the gravy, - and-peur it into the dish. The Common Method is, when the meat is in the dish. you intend to send it up in, to mix half a tea- spoonful of Salt in a quarter pint of boiling water, and to drop some of this over the corners and under- side of the meat, and to pour the rest through the’ hole the spit came out of,—and some pierce the inferior parts of the joimt with a sharp skewer. The following Receipt was given us by a very good Cook :—You may make good Browning for Roast Meat and Poultry, by saving the Brown Bits of Roast Meat or Broiled ; cut them ‘into small bits, put them into a basin, cover them with boiling water, and put P2 316 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. them away till next day; then put it into a saucepan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it away for use. When you want Gravy for Roast Meat, put two tablespoonsful into half a pint of boiling water with a little salt ;— if for Roasted Veal, put three sap bbe vpn into half a pint of thin melted Butter. N.B. The Gravy which comes down in the dish, the Cook (if she is a good housewife) will preserve to enrich HasHEs oR LITTLE Mapes DisueEs, &c. Obs. — Some Culinary professors, who think nothing can be excellent, that is not extravagant,—call this «Scots Gravy ;” not, I believe, intending it, as it certainly is, a compliment to the landable, and rational frugality, of that intelligent, and sober-minded People. __N.B. This gravy should be brought to table in a Sauce-boat ; preserve the intrinsic Gravy which flows from the meat, in the Argyll. Gravy for Boiled Meat —(No. 327.) May be made with Parings and Trimmings,— or pour from a quarter to half a pint of the liquor in which the Meat was boiled, into the dish with it, and pierce the inferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer. Wow Wow Sauce for Stewed or Bouilli Beef. — (No. 328.) . Chop some Parsley leaves very finely, quarter two or three pickled Cucumbers, or Walnuts, and divide them, into small squares, and set them by ready ;— put into a saucepan a bit of Butter as big as an egg; when it is melted, stir to it a tablespoonful of fine Flour, and about half a pint of the Broth in which the Beef was boiled; add a tablespoonful of Vinegar, the like quantity of Mushroom Catsup, or Port Wine, or both, and a teaspoonful of made Mustard; let it simmer together till it is as thick as you wish it, put in the Parsley and Pickles to get warm, and pour it GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 317 over the Beef,—or rather send it up in a Sauce- tureen. Obs.—If you think the above not sufficiently pequante, add to it some Capers, or a minced Shallot, or one or two teaspoonsful of Shallot Wine (No. 402), — or Essence of Anchovy,—or Basil (No. 397), — Elder, or Tarragon (No. 396), or Horseradish (No. 399%), or Burnet Vinegar; or strew over the meat, Carrots and Turnips cut into dice, — minced Capers, — Walnuts, — Red Cabbage,—pickled Cucumbers, or French Beans, &e. . Beer Gravy Sauce, — (No. 329) —or Brown Sauce for Ragotts, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c. Tf you want Gravy immediately, see (No. 307), or ~ (No, 252), if you have time enough. Furnish a thick and well-tinned Stewpan. with a thin slice of fat Ham or Bacon, or an ounce of Butter, and a middling sized Onion; on this, lay a pound of nice juicy Gravy Beef, (as the object in making Gravy is to extract the nutritious succulence of the Meat, it must be beaten to comminute the containing vessels, and scored to augment the surface to the action of the water,) cover the Stewpan, and set it on a slow fire; when the meat begins to brown, turn it about, and let it get slightly browned, (but take care it is not at all burnt :) then pour in a pint and a half of boiling water, get the pan on the fire; when it boils, carefully catch the scum,— and then put in a crust of bread toasted brown, (don’t burn it)—a sprig of winter Savory, or Lemon Thyme and Parsley —a roll of thin cut Lemon Peel, a dozen berries of Allspice, and a dozen of Black Pepper; cover the stewpan close, and let it stew very gently for about two hours, then strain it through a sieve into a basin. Now, if you wish to THIcKEN it, set a clean stewpan over a slow fire, with about an ounce of Butter in it; when it is melted, dredge to it (by degrees) as much flour as will dry it up, stirring ae 318 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. them well together; when thoroughly mixed, pour ir a little of the Gravy, —stir it well together, and add the remainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let it simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and skim off the fat, &c. as it rises; when it is about as thick as cream, squeeze it through a tammis, or fine sieve, -— and you will have a fine rich Brown Sauce, at a very moderate Expense, and without much trouble. - Obs. —If you wish to make wt still more Relishing,—if it is for Poultry, you may pound the Liver with a bit of Butter, rub it through a sieve, and stir it into the Sauce when you put in the thickening. For a RacGovurt, or Game, add at the same time a tablespoonful of Mush- room Catsup, or (No. 343)*, or (No. 429), or a few drops of (No. 422), the juice of half a Lemon, and a roll of the rind pared thin, a tablespoonful of Pert, or other wine, (Claret is best,) and a few grains of Cayenne Pepper;—or use double the quantity of Meat,—or add a bit of Glaze, or Portable Soup (No. 252), to it. You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a little Basil, or Burnet Wine (No. 397), or Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), or a wine-glass of Quintessence of Mushrooms (No. 450.) hiss See the Macazine oF Taste, (No. 463.) . N.B. This is an excellent Gravy; and at a large Dinner, a Pint of it should be placed at each end of' the Table — it is equal to the most costly Consommé of the Parisian Kitchen. . .. Those families who are frequently in want of GRavy, Sauces, &c. (without plenty of which, no Cook can support the credit of her Kitchen,) should keep a stock of PortaBLe Soup or Guiazez, see (No. 252): this will make Gravy immediately. | we _+* One of “ les. Bonnes hommes de Bouche de France” orders the fol- lowing addition for Game Gravy:—“ For a pint, par-roast a Partridge or a Pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it into the stew- pan. when you thicken the Sauce.”— We do not recommend either, Soup or Sauce to be THICKENED, — because it requires (to give it the same quickness on the Palate it had before it was thickened) double the quantity of Piqguante materials, — which are thus smrggled down the Red Lane, without affording. any amusement to the Mouth, and at the risk of highly offending the Stomach,’ GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 319 Game Gravy. gation” 337.) ” See Obs. to CNG 8293}. = Orange Gr sale Sauce, for Wald Ducks, Wadgeon and _ Teal, $c. -— (No. 338.) . Set on a saucepan with half a pint of Veal Gravy (No. 192), add to it half a dozen leaves of Basil, a small Onion, and a roll-of Orange or Lemon Peel, and let it boil up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville Orange, or Lemon, half a teaspoonful of Salt, the same of Pepper, and a glass of Red Wine; send it up hot. Eshallot and Cayenne may be added. , Obs. — This is an excellent Sauce for all kinds of Wild water-fowl. . ’ The common way of gashing the breast, and squeezing in an Orange, cools, and hardens the flesh, and compels every one to eat Duck that way:—some people like wild fowl very little done, and without any Sauce. Gravies should always be sent up in a boat; they . keep hot longer; and it leaves it to the choice ee the Company to partake or not. Bonne Boucue, ror Goose, Duck, or Roast Pork. — (No. 341.) Mix a teaspoonful of made Mustard, a saltspoonful of Salt, and a few grains of Cayenne, in a. large wine- glassful of Claret, or: Port wine*; pour it into the Goose by a slit in ‘the apron, just before serving upt or, as all the Company may not like it, star it into a quarter of a pint of thick melted Butter, or thickened Gravy, and send it up ina Boat. See also Sage and Onion Sauce, (No. 300.) * To this some adda ., tablespoonfal of Mushroom Catéap (No. 439), and instead of the saltspoonful of Salt, a teaspoonfui of Essence of Anchovy (No. 433.) If the above articles are rubbed together in a niortar, and put into a close stopped bottle, they will keep for some time, '-+ Thus far the above is from Dr. HUNTER’s ‘‘ Culina,” who says it is a Kéeret worth knowing :— we agree with him, and so tell it here; with a little addition, which we think renders it a sti!l more gratifying communication. mM, 320 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Or, A Favourite RELIsu for Roast Pork or Geese, &€. is, — two ounces of leaves of Green Sage, an ounce of fresh Lemon Peel, pared thin, same of Salt, minced Shallot, and half a ‘drachm of Cayenne Pepper, ditto of Citric Acid, steeped for a fortnight in a pint of Claret; shake it up well every day; let it stand a day to settle, and decant the clear liquor,—bottle it and cork it close, —a tablespoonful, or more, in a re nae af Gravy, or melted Butter. Robert Sauce for Roast Pork or Geese, §c. — (No. 342, ) Put an ounce of Butter into a Pint Stewpan ; when it is melted, add to it half an ounce of Onion minced very fine; turn it with a.wooden spoon, till it takes a light brown colour, then stir in a tablespoonful: of Flour, a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, (with, or without the like quantity of Port wine,) half a pint of Broth, or water, and a quarter of a| teaspoonful of Pepper, the same of Salt; give them a boil, then add a teaspoonful of Mustard, and the j juice of half a Lemon, or one or two teaspoonsful of Vinegar, or Basil (No.397), or Tarragon (No. 396), or Burnet Vinegar (No. 399.) Obs. —The French call this ‘Sauce Rozert,” (from the name of the cook who invented it, and are very fond of it with many things,) which Mary SmitH, 1n the ‘‘ Complete Housekeeper,” 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translates Roz-Boat Saucz. See Obs. to (No. 529.) ; Turtle Sauce. —(No. 343.) Put into your stewpan a pint of Beef Gravy thick- ened (No. 329); add to this some. of the following Essence of Turtle (No. 343*), or a wineglass of Madeira, the juice and peel of half a Lemon, a few leaves of Basil*, an Eshallot quartered, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, or Curry powder, and a little Essence of An- chovy; let them simmer together for five minutes, and * See Basil Wine (No. 307- Yeu GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 321 strain through a tammis;—you may introduce a dozen Turtle Forcemeat Balls; see Receipt (No. 380), &c. » 0bs.—This is the Sauce for boiled or hashed Calf’s- head,-—Stewed Veal,—or any dish you dress Turtle fashion. The far-fetcht and dear-bought Turtle owes its high rank on the list of savoury Bonnes Bouches to the relishing and piquante sauce that is made for it;— without, it would be as insipid as any other Fish is without Sauce. See Ods. to (No. 493.) Essence of Turtle. —(No. 343.*) Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), one wineglassful. Shallot Wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto. Basil Wine (No. 397), four ditto. ‘Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), two ditto. Concrete-Lemon Acid, one drachm, or some 4rtifi- etal Lemon Juice (No. 407.) Lemon Peel, very thinly pared, three quarters of an ounce. Curry Powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce. Steep for a week to get the flavour of the Lemon Peel, &c. Obs.—This is very convenient, to extemporaneously flavour Soup, Sauce, or Potted Meats, Ragouts, Sa- voury Patties, Pies, &c. &c. Wine Sauce, for Venison or Hare.—(No. 344.) A quarter of a pint of Claret or Port wine, the same quantity of plain unflavoured Mutton Gravy (No. 347), and a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly ; let it just boil up and send it to table in a sauce-boat. Sharp Sauce, for Venison. —(No. 345.) Put: into a silver, or very clean and Well tinned saucepan, half a pint of the best white-wine vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded; set it over the fire, and let it simmer gently; skim it care- PS Pe air 4 GRAVIES AND SAUCES; fully, pour it through a tammis or fine sieve, and send, it up in.a basin. - Obs. —Some Lap ye like this better than the Sweet Wine sauces. Sweet Shilee for Venison or Hare. — (No. 346. 6) Put some Currant Jelly into a stewpan; when it is melted, pour it into a sauce-boat. N.B. Many send it to table without melting. To, make Currant Jelly see (No. 479.*) This is a more salubrious relish than either Spice or Salt, and when the Palate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked, — Currant Jelly is a good accompaniment to Roasted or Hashed Meats. Mutton Gravy, for Venison or Hare. — (No. 347.) The best gravy for Venison, is that made with the trimmings of the Joint: — if this is all used, and you have no undressed Venison, cut,a scrag of mutton in: pieces, broil it a little brown, then put it into a clean stewpan, with a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an hour; now uncover the stewpan, and let it reduce to three quarters of a pint, pour it through a hair sieve, take the fat off, and send. it up in a boat.—It is only to be seasoned with a little salt, that it may not overpower the natural flavour of the meat. You may colour it with a very little of (No. 322.) N. B. Some prefer the unseasoned Beef Gravy, (No. 186), which you make in five minutes with (No. 252.) ‘Tur QuEEN’s GRAVY OF Murrow, as made by her Majesty’s “ Escuyer de Cuisine,” Monsieur La Montagne. ‘¢ Roast ajnicy leg of Mutton three quarters, then gash it in several places, and press out the Juice by a screw press.” From Sir Kenetm Diesy’s Cookery, 18mo. London, 1669. 7 Curry Sattce-~(Nov 348.) -Is made by stirring a sufficient Whitbadi of titan GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 320 stuff, see (No. 455.) into gravy, or melted butter, or onion sauce, (Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy (No. 299 or 329.) ‘The compositions of Curry Powder and the Palates of those who eat it vary so much, that we cannot re- commend any specific quantity. The Cook must add it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not to put in too much. ‘Obs. — The Curry Powder (No. 455,) approximates more nearly to the best, Indian Curry stuff, and is an agreeable and well blended moisture of this class of aromatics. - N.B. To dress Currizs, see (No. 497.) Essence of Ham. — (No, 351.) Essence or Ham and of Beer may be purchased at the Eating-houses which cut up those joints, — the former for half a crown or three shillings a Quart: it is therefore a most Economical relish for Made Dishes, and to give pzquance to Sauces, &c. Grill Sauce. — (No. 355.) - To half a pint of Gravy-(No. 329,) add an ounce of fresh Butter, and a tablespoonful of Flour, previously well rubbed together, the same of Mushroom, or Walnut Catsup, — two teaspoonsful of Lemon juice, one of made Mustard, one of Caper, half a one of black Pepper, a quarter of the rind of a Lemon, grated very: thin, a teaspoonful of Essence of Anchosics, and a little Shallot wine (No. 402), or a very small piece of minced Shallot, and a little Chili Vinegar (No. 405), or a few grains of Cayenne, simmer together for a few minutes, and pour a little of it over the Grill, aud send up the rest in a sauce tureen. For Anchovy toasts (No. 573 or 538.) ij Or, Sauce ala Tartare. Pena in a mortar three hard yolks of Eggs, put Sp! a GRAVIES AND SAUCES, them into a Basin, and add half a tablespoonful of. made Mustard, and a little Pepper and Salt;— pour to: it by degees, stirring it fast all the while, about two. wineglassesful of salad oil, — stir. it together fall it comes to a good thickness. N.B. A little Tarragon or Chervil banged very Siiehinn and a little Vinegar may be added, or some anf ae ingredients enumerated in (No. 372.) 5 Obs. — This from the French Artist who wrote | the Receipt for dressing a Turtle. Obs. — These are > piquante relishes for Abebowg mao (No. 573), or (No. 538); for BrorLep Devits, &c.,, “« Véritable Sauce d’Enfer,” see (No. 538), and a, re- freshing excitement for those idle palates, who are as incessantly mumbling out ‘ mquante, bao as Parrots do “ Pret Poll, Pretty Poll.” ** For palates grown callous almost to disease, ** Who peppers the si oor is surest to please.” GOLDSMITH, . Sauce for Steaks, or Cuops, coum ou a (No. 356.) See also (No. 331.) Take your Chops out of the Frying Pan;—for a pound of meat, keep a tablespoonful of the Fat in the Pan, or put in about an ounce of Butter, — put to it as much Flour as will make it a paste, rub it well together over the fire till they are a little brown, — then add as much boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of good Cream, and a tablespoonful of Mushroom, or Walnut Catsup, or Pickle, or Browning (No, 322), or (No. 449); —let it boil together a few minutes, and pour it through a sieve to the Steaks, &c. Obs.—To the above is sometimes added a sliced Onion, or a minced Eshallot, with a tablespoonful of Port wine, or a little Shallot wine (Nos. 402, 423, or 135.) Garnish with finely scraped Horseradish or pickled Walnuts, Gherkins, &c. Some Beef Eaters like chopped Shallots in one Saucer and Horseradish GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 325. grated in Vinegar in another. Broiled Mushrooms are favourite relishes to Beef Steaks. iB i YittS2 Sauce Piquante for Cold Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c., _ or Salads,—(No. 359.) See also (No. 372), and ~ Cucumber Vinegar (Nos. 399 and 453.) Wiss: Pound in a mortar, the yolks of two eggs that hav been boiled hard (No. 547), with a mustardspoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt, add two tablespoonsful of salad oil, mix well, and then add three tablespoonsful of Vinegar, rub it up well till it is quite smooth, and pass it through a tammis or sieve. Obs. —To the above some add an Anchovy or a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup, or Walnut Pickle, some finely chopped Parsley, — grated Horseradish,— or young Onions minced, or Burnet (No. 399), Horse- radish (No. 399* or 402),—or Tarragon, or Elder Vinegar (No.396), &c., and Cayenne, or minced Pickles,’ Capers, &c. This is a piguante relish for Lobsters, Crabs, cold fish, &c. Sauce ror Hasues oF Mutton, or BEEF.—(No. 360.) See also (Nos. 451, 485), and TO MAKE PLAIN Hasn (No. 486.) Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the Paiate of those you are working for, — show those who are to eat the Hash this Receipt, and beg of them to direct you how they wish it seasoned. Half the number of the Ingredients enumerated will be more than enough, — but as it is a Receipt so often wanted, we have given variety. See also (No. 486.) To prepare the Meat, see (No. 484.) Sa Chop the Bones and fragments of the joint, &c., and put them into a stewpan, and cover them with boiling water, six berries of Black pepper, the same of Allspice, a small bundle of Parsley, half a head of Celery eut in pieces, and a small sprig of Savory, or Lemon- 326 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: thyme, or sweet Marjoram; cover up, and: let at simmer gently for half an hour. Slice half an ounce of Onion and put it in a Raph at with an ounce of Butter, fry it over a sharp fire for about a couple of minutes, till it takes a little colour ; then stir in as much Flour as will make it a stiff paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made from the bones, &c.; let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour, till it is the consistence of thick: cream, strain it through a tammis or sieve into'a basin;) put it back into the stewpan: to sEasoN IT, see’ (No. 451), or cut in a few pickled Onions,—or Walnuts, —or a couple of Gherkins,— and a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup,—or Walnut, or other Pickle Liquor, —or some Capers, and Caper Liquor, — or a table- spoonful of Ale,—or a little Shallot, or Tarragon Vinegar, — cover the bottom of the dish with Sippets' of Bread, (that they may become savoury reservoirs of Gravy), which some toast, and cut into triangles.— You may garnish it with fried Bread Sippets (No. 319.) ~ N.B. To nasH MEAT IN PERFECTION,—it should be laid in this Gravy only just long apy to get properly warm through. Obs. — If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or ran from the joint when it was roasted, be left, it wit be a great improvement to the Hash. _ If you wish to make Mocx Venison, — instead of the Onion, put in two. or three Cloves, a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly, and the same quantity of Claret or Port wine, instead of the Catsup. You may make a Curry Hasu by adding some of (No. 455.) - N.B. A pint of (No. 329) is an excellent Gravy to. warm up either Meat, or Poultry. Sauce for Hashed, or Minced Veal. —(No. 361.) See (No. 511.) Take the bones of cold roast or boiled Veal, dredge 7 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Rvs them well with flour, and put them into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of broth or water, a small Onion, a little grated or finely minced Lemon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small Lemon, pared as thin as possible, half a teaspoonful of salts, and a blade of pounded Mace ;—to Thicken it, rub a tablespoonful of Flour into half an ounce of Butter; stir it into the broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil very gently for about half an hour, strain through a tammis or sieve, and it is ready to put to the veal to warm up, which is to be done by placing the stewpan by the side of the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bottom of the dish with toasted bread sippets out into triangles, and garnish the dish with slices of Ham or Bacon. See (Nos. 526 and 527.) | | Obs. — Read (No. 484), a little Basil Wine (No. 397) gives an agreeable vegetable relish to Hashed Veal. Becuamet, by English Cooks commonly called Wutre Saucr. — (No. 364.) Cut in square pieces half an inch thick, two pounds of Lean Veal, half a pound of lean Ham, melt in a stewpan two ounces of Butter; when melted, let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the Bottom, (it requires great attention, as if it happen to catch at the bottom of the stewpan, it will spoil the look of your Sauce), then add to it three tablespoonsful of flour ; when’ well mixed, add to it three pints of broth or water, pour a little at a time, that the thickening be smooth, stir it until it boil, put the stewpan on the corner of the stove to boil gently for two hours, season it with four cloves, one onion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of mace, a few mushrooms, and a fagot made of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the Sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a tammis cloth. To make a BecuaMEL Sauce, add to a quart of the above, a pint of good cream, stir it until it is reduced to a good thickness; a few mushrooms give a good aos GRAVIES AND SAUCES.- favour to that Sauce; strain it through a tammis cloth. . Obs. Hohe above was given us by the Sines artist who wrote the receipt to dress a Turtle (No. 250.) A more economical Method of making a Pint of Waike Sauce. —(No. 365, No. 2.) ° Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stewpan with,an onion and a blade of mace, set on the fire to boil ten minutes, have ready and rub together on a. plate an ounce of Flour and Butter, put it into the. stewpan, stir it well till it boils up, then stand it near’ the fire or stove, stirring it every now and then till it- becomes quite smooth, then strain it through a sieve into a basin, put it back into the stew pan, season.it with salt and the juice of a small lemon, beat up the yolks of two Eggs well with about three tablespoonsful of milk, strain it through a sieve into your Sauce, stir it well and keep it near the fire, but be sure and do not let it boil, for it will curdle. ‘Obs. — A convenient veil for boiled Fowls, &c. whose complexions are not inviting. Mem. With the assistance of the Magazine of Taste (No. 463) you may give this Sauce a variety of flavours. Obs. — BecuAMEL implies a thick white Sauce,. approaching to a Batter, — and takes its name from a wealthy French Marquess, maitre d'hétel de Louis XIV, and famous for his patronage of ‘‘ les Officters de Bouche” — who have immortalized him, by calling by his name this delicate composition. é Most of the French Sauces take their name from the person whose palate they first pleased, as “ @ la Main- tenon ;”’ or from some famous Cook who invented them, as ‘‘ Sauce Robert,” “ @ la’ Montizeur,” &c. We have in the English kitchen, our “ ARGYLL” for” Gravy, and the little ““ Sanpwicn” monuments “ ere perennius,” *¢ And thus MONTEITH “ Has, by one cael: sav’d his Name from Death.” Kine’s Art of Cookery. ° GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 329 Powwrade Sauce.-=(No; 365.) This, as its title tells us, is a Sauce of French’ ex- traction. The following receipt is desnctin ss ti Cuisiniere Bourgeoise,” page 408. _“* Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into'a stewpan with two or three onions, carrots, and turnips cut in slices, a clove of garlick, two shallots, two cloves, a bay leaf, thyme, and basil, keep turning them in the pan till they get a little édloiy)-sushaltorin some flour, and add a glass of red Wine, a class of water, and a spoonful of Vinegar, and a little Pepper and Salt, boil half.an hour, skim and strain it.” Mustard in a Minute. —(No. 369.) Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar, an ounce of flour of Mustard, with three tablespoonsful of. Milk, (cream is better), half a teaspoonful of Salt, and the same of sugar, rub them well together till quite smooth. Obs.— Mustard made in this manner, is not at. all bitter, and is therefore instantly ready for the table. N.B. It has been said that Flour of Mustard is some- times adulterated with common flour, &c. &c. The Mustarp so/d at Apotruecarizes Hatt, is excellent, where may also be had all sorts of Perrrrs, Spices, &c. of the best quality, and very finely pow- dered. Mustarp.—(No. 370.) Mix (by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar) the best Durham flour of Mustard, with cold water, in which scraped Horseradish has been boiled, rub at well together till it is perfectly smooth : it will keep in a stone Jar, closely stopped, for a fortnight ; — only put as much into the Mustard pot as will be used in a day or two. The READY MADE MustaRp, prepared at the oil shops, is mixed with about one-fourth part salt: this is useful to preserve it, if it is to be kept long; otherwise, ie 330 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. by all means’ omit it.—The best way of oartG Pall, is in substance, 4 > ** See also ese (No. AZT s)i LS! Obs.—We believe Mustanp is the best of all thie stimulants that are employed to give energy to the Digestive organs.—Some opulent Epicures, mix it with Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled, or flavoured — Vinegar. instead of Horseradish water. The French flavour their Mustard with Champaigne, pad other Wines, — Capers — Anchovies, —Tarragon, © — Elder, — Basil, — Burnet, — Garlick, -— Shallot, or Celery Vinegar; the various Spices; — Sweet, — Sa- voury, — fine Herbs, — Truffles, — Catsups, — &c. &c. and seem to consider Mustard, merely as a vehicle of flavours. N.B. Mons. Maille et Aclocque’s catalogue of Persian ‘** Bons Bons,” there is a list: of 28 pra gm: flavoured Mustards. ican -— (No. 371.) Ts (“aliorum condimentorum Condimentum,” as Plutarch éalls it), Sauce for Sauce. Common Sult,is more relishing than Basket Salt ; it should be prepared for the Table, by drying itin a Dutch oven before the fire; then put it on a clean paper, and roll it with a rolling pin; — if you pound it ina Mortar till it is quite fine, it will look as well as Basket salt. MAatLpeEN Satt is still more pequante, — this is sold at Lambert’s Oil-shop, Ludgate Hill. * * Select for table use the Lumps of Salt. Obs. — “Your Salt Box must have a close cover, and be kept in a dry place. SALAD Mixture. — (No. 372.) See also (No, ene and (No. 453.) Endeavour to have your Salad herbs as fresh as pos- sible: if you suspect they are not “morning gathered,” they will be much refreshed by laying an hour in cold J spring water; then carefully wash, and pick them, and PE - GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 331 trim off all the worm-eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves, and after washing, let them remain a while in the cul- lender to drain, lastly, swing them gently in a clean coarse napkin ; — when properly picked and cut, arrange them in the Salad Dish, — mix the Sauce in a Soup plate, and put it into an Ingredient Bottle*, or pour it down the side of the Salad Dish} — and don’t stir it up till the mouths are ready for it. If the Herbs be young, — fresh gathered, — trimmed neatly, and drained dry,—— and the Sauce maker ponders patiently over the following directions, —he cannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished Salad- dresser. | - Boil a couple of Eggs for twelve minutes, and put dient in a basin of cold water for a few minutes, — the Yolks must be quite cold and hard, or they will not incor- porate with the ingredients. Rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a tablespoonful of Water, or fine double Cream, then add two table- spoonsful of Oil or melted Butter; when these are well mixed, add by degrees, a teaspoonful of Salt, or powdered lump Sugar, and the same of made Mustard; when these are smoothly united, add very gradually three tablespoonsful of Vinegar, rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorporated with them ; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the salad with it. Let the Sauce remain at the bottom of the Bowl, and do not stir up the Salad till it is to be eaten;—we recommend the Eaters to be mindful of the duty of mastication,—without the due performance of which, all undressed Vegetables are troublesome company for the principal viscera, and some are even dangerously indigestible. N.B. The above Sauce is equally ‘good with cold Meat, — cold Fish, — or for Cucumbers, — Celery,— Radishes, &e., (and all the other Vegetables that are _ * These are sold at the Glass shops, under the name of INCORPORATORS,— we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the Company can then take it, or leave it, as they like. 332 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. . sent to table undressed); to the above, a little minced Onion is generally an acceptable addition. _ Obs, —Salad is a very compound dish with our neighbours the French, who always add to the mixture above, Black Pepper, and sometimes Savoury Spice. - The Italians mince the white meat of Chickens into this sauce. ~The Dutch, cold boiled Turbot, or Lobster; or “add to it a spoonful of grated Parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or mince very fine a little Tarragon,—Chervil, — Burnet, — or young Onion, — Celery, —or pickled Gherkins, &c. Joan Cromwext’s Grand Salad was composed ‘of equal parts of Almonds, Raisins, Capers, Pickled Cucumbers, Shrimps, and Boiled Turnips. This mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled butter, see (No. 260%), or some good Jelly of meat, (which many prefer to the finest Florence oil), and flavoured with Salad Mixture (No. 453), Basil. (No. 397), or Cress or Celery Vinegar (No. 397*), Horse- radish Vinegar (No. 399*), Cucumber Vinegar (No. 399), Tarragon, or elder Vinegar; essence of Celery. (No. 409), Walnut or Lemon Pickle, or a slice of Lemon cut into dice, essence of Anchovy (No. 433.) _. FORCEMEAT STUFFINGS. —\(No. 373.) Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable ac- companiment to most Made Dishes, and when composed with good taste, gives additional spirit and relish to even that « Sovereign of Savouriness,” Turtle soup. Itis also sent up in Patties, and for sTHNG of Veal, Game, Poultry, &c. The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no one flavour predominates ;— instead of giving the same stuffing for Veal, Hare, &c., with a little contrivance, you. may make as great a variety as you have Dishes. Thave given Receipts for some of the most favourite compositions, and a Table of Materials, a glance at ~~ which will enable the ingenious Cook to make an ; : GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 333 infinite variety of combinations: the first column con+ taining the spirit, the second the substance of them. The poignancy of lorcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness of the viands, to which it is intended to give an additional Zest. Some dishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat, — for others, it must be full and high seasoned. What would be piquante in a Turkey, — would be iszpizd with Turtle. Tastes are so different,— and the praise the Cook receives, will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all her sagacity must be on the alert, to produce the flavours to which her employers are partial. See pages 59 and 60. Most people have an acquired, and peculiar taste in stuffings, &c., and what exactly pleases one, seldom is precisely what another considers the most agreeable : and after all the contrivance of a pains-taking pala- tician, to combine her “ haut gotts” in the most har- monious proportions, “* The very dish one likes the best, Is acid, or insipid, to the rest.” Custom is all in all, in matters of Taste, — itis not that one person is naturally fond of this or that, and another naturally averse to it, — but that one is used to it, and another is not. The consistency of Forcemeats is rather a difficult thing to manage; they are almost always either too light or too heavy. Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth, and that all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. _ Forcemeat balls must not be larger than a small nutmeg, — if they are for Brown Sauce, flour them and fry them ; — if for White, put them into boiling water, and boil them for three minutes; the latter are A i) the most delicate. N. B. If uot of sufficient stiffness, it falls to pieces, and makes Soup, &c. grouty and very unsightly. SWEETBREADs and TonauEs are the favourite ma- terials for forcemeat. 334 GRAVIES AND SAUCES, MATERIALS USED FoR ForcEMEAT, STUFFINGS, &C. Spirit. Substance. ~ Common Thyme. HY Flour. Lemon Thyme, Crumbs of Bread. Orange Thyme. 3 34 Parsley. See N. B. to (No. 261. ) Sweet Marjoram. fa Spinach. Summer and nH Boiled Onion. Winter Savory. pkey: Mashed Potatoes (No. 106.) Sage. v Sa Yoiks of hard Eggs (No. 574.) | Tarcarsn (No. 396.) 2 Mutton. Chervil. | ie Beef. - - Burnet (No. 399.) EE Veal Suet*, or Marrow. Basil (No. 307.) ae Calf’s Udder, or Brains. Bay-leaf. 2 Parboiled SWEETBREAD. Truffles and i Veal minced and pounded, and Morells. Ry Potted Meats, &c. (No. 503.) Mushroom Powder (No. 439.) Leeks. Onions. Eshallot (No. 402.) Garlick. Lemon Peel, see (Nos. 407 and 408.) Shrimps (No. 175.) Prawns. Crabs. Lobsters (Nos. 176 and 178.) Oysters. Anchovy (No. 433.) Dressed TONGUE. See N. B. to (No. 373.) Ham. Bacon. Black or White Pepper. Allspice. Mace. Cinnamon. Ginger. Nutmegs. ‘Cloves. Savoury Eparier (No. 465.) Soup Herb Powder (No. 467.) Curry Powder (No. 455 ) Cayenne (No. 404.) Zest (No. 255.) _ For. Liquids, you have Meat Gravy, Lemon Juice, Syrup of Lemons (Nos. 391 and 477), Essence of An- chovy, see (No. 433), the various Vegetable Essences, see (No. 407), and Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), and the whites and yolks of Eggs, — Wines, — and the Essence of Spices. é - * If you have no Suet,—the best substitute for it is about pinta part the quantity of Butter. ee a GRAVIES AND SAUCES, 335 Stuffing for Veal, Roast Turkey, Fowl, 5c.— (No. 374.) Mince a quarter of a pound of Beef Suet, (Beef Marrow is better,) the same weight of Bread Crumbs, two.drachms of Parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet Marjoram (or Lemon-thyme), and the same of grated Lemon-peel, and Onion or Eshallot, chopped as fine as possible, a little grated Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt ;—.pound thoroughly together with the yolk and white of two Eggs, and secure it in the Veal with a: skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread. Make some of it into Balls or Sausages, flour them, and boil, or fry them, and. send them up as a garnish, or in a side dish, with roast Poultry, Veal, or Cutlets, &c. | N.B. This is about the quantity for a Turkey Pout; a very large Turkey will take nearly twice as much, To the above may be added an ounce of dressed Ham,—or use equal parts of the above Stuf- fing, and Pork Sausage Meat (No. 87), pounded well together. ; Obs.— Good Stuffing has always been considered a chef-d’euvre in Cookery; it has given immortality to “ Poor Roger Fowler, who ’d a generous mind, Nor would submit to have his hand confin’d, But aimed at all, —yet never could excel -. In any thing but stuffing of his Veal.” Kin@’s Art of Cookery, p. 113. Veal Forcemeat.— (No. 375.) Of undressed lean Veal, (after you have scraped it quite fine, end free from skin and sinews,) two ounces, the same quantity of (Beef or Veal) Suet, and the same of Bread Crumbs, chop fine two drachms of Parsley, one of Lemon-peel, one of Sweet Herbs, one of Onion, and half a drachm of Mace, or Allspice, (beaten to fine powder); pound all together in a mortar, break into it the yolk and white of an Egg;—rub it all up well together, and season it with a little pepper and salt. Obs.—This may be made more savoury, by the 336 ‘GRAVIES AND SAUCES. addition of cold boiled pickled’ Tongue, ' Anchovy, Eshallot, Cayenne, or Curry powder, &c. south Stuffing for Bowed Turkey. —(No. 377. ie Take the foregoing composition for the Roast Turkey, _ —or add the soft part of a dozen Oysters to it, —an Anchovy, — or a little grated Ham, or Tongue, if you like it, is still more relishing. Pork Sausage Meat is sometimes used to stuff Turkies, and Fowls, — or fried, and sent up as a Gargish,. ) Goose or Duck Stuffing. —(No. 378.) ° Chop very fine about two ounces of onibindb of green Sage leaves about an ounce, (both unboiled), four ounces of Bread Crumbs, the yolk and white of an Ege, and a little pepper ‘and salt; some add to this a minced Apple. For another, see Roasted Goose, and Duck (Nos. 59 and 61), which latter we like as Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle; then add a little Lemon-peel, ands warm it with Cayenne. Stuffing for Hare.— (No. 379.) Two ounces of Beef Suet chopped fine, — three ounces of fine Bread Crumbs, — Parsley, a drachm, — Shallot, half a drachm, — a drachm of Marjoram, Le- mon-thyme, or Winter Savory,—a drachm of grated Lemon-peel, — half a drachm of Nutmeg, —and the same of Pepper and Salt; — mix these with the white and yolk of an Egg,—do not make it thin —it must be of cohesive consistence, ——if your Stuffing is not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing, — put it in the hare, and sew it up. ** If the Liver is quite sound, you may parboil it, and mince tt very fine, and add it to the above. -Forcemeat Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes. —(No. 380.) See also (No. 375.) Pound some Veal in a marble mortar, rub it through GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 307 a sieve with as much of the udder as you have Veal, or about a third the quantity of Butter; — put some Bread-crumbs into a stewpan, moisten them with milk, add a little chopped Parsley and Shallot, rub them well together in a mortar, till they form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve, and when cold, pound, and mix all together, with the yolks of three Eggs boiled hard; season it with salt, pepper, and Curry powder, or Cayenne, add to it the yolks of two raw Eggs, rub it well together, and make small balls: ten minutes before your Soup is ready, put them in. *,° By the French Cook who gave us the Receipt to dress a Turtle, &c. See (No. 250.) . Egg Balls. —(No. 381.) Boil four Eggs for ten minutes, and put them into cold water, — when they are quite cold, put the yolks into a mortar with the yolk of a raw egg, a teaspoonful of flour, same of chopped parsley, as much salt as will lay on a shilling, and a little black pepper, or Cayenne, rub them well together, roll them into small Balls, (as they swell in boiling,) — boil them a couple of minutes. Brain Balls. See (No. 247), or beat up the brains of a Calf in the way we have above directed the Egg. Curry Balls, for Mock Turtle, Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, &¢c. — (No. 382.) Are made with Bread-crumbs, the yolk of an Egg boiled hard, and a bit of fresh Butter about half as big, beaten together in a mortar, and seasoned with Curry powder, see (No. 455); make and prepare small Balls, as directed in (No. 381.) Zest Balls, — (No. 386.) — See (No. 255.) Prepared in the same way as (No. 381.) Q 338 GRAVIES AND ‘SAUCES: Orange or Lemon-Peel, to mix with Stuffing. —(N 0.387.) — Peel a Seville Orange, or Lemon, very thin, taking off only the fine yellow rind, (without any of the whzte,) pound it in a mortar with a bit of lump sugar, rub it well with the peel,—by degrees add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed with; when it is well. eround and blended with this, mix it with the whole: there is no other way of incorporating it so well. Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by the insuf- ficient mixing of the ingredients. Clouted or Clotted Cream. —(No. 388.) - The milk which is put into the pans one morning stands till the next; then set the pan on a hot hearth, (or in a Copper Tray*, half full of water,—put this over a stove); in from ten to twenty minutes, according to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan, it will be enough, — the sign of which is, that bladders rise on its surface; this denotes that it is near boiling, which it must by no means do; and it must be in- stantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy till the next morning, when the fine cream is thrown up, and is ready for the table, or for Butter, into which it is soon converted by stirring it with the hand. N.B. This Receipt we have not proved. _ Raspberry Vinegar.— (No. 390.) The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of the best white wine Vinegar on a pint and a half of fresh-gathered Red Raspberries in a stone Jar, or China bowl, (neither glazed earthen ware, nor any metallic vessel, must be used ;) the next day strain the liquor over a like quantity of fresh Raspberries; and the day fol- lowing do the same, ‘Then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a Jelly Bag (previously wetted with plain Vinegar) into a stone Jar, with a pound of pounded lump Sugar to each pint. When ~ * A Bain-marie. See Note to (No. 485.) = —— =» GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 339 the Sugar is dissolved, stir it up, cover down the Jar, and set it in a saucepan of water, and keep it boiling for an hour, taking off the scum; add to each pint a glass of Brandy, and bottle it: mixed in about eight parts of water, it is a very refreshing and delightful Summer drink. An excellent cooling beverage to as- suage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, and inflammatory complaints, &c., and is agreeable to most palates. See (No, 479.*) -N.B. We have not proved this Receipt. Syrup of Lemons. — (No. 391.) The best Season for Lemons, is from November to March.— Put a pint of fresh Lemon j juice to a pound and three quarters of Lump Sugar; dissolve it by a gentle heat, scum it till the surface is quite clear,— add an ounce of thin cut Lemon Peel; let them simmer (very gently) together for a few minutes, and run it through a flannel. When cold, bottle and cork it closely, and keep it in a cool place. Or, Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (Avoirdupors) of Cirric, i. e. crystallized Lemon-acid, in a pint of Clarified Syrup (No. 475), flavour it with the Peel, with (No. 408), or dissolve the Acid in equal parts of Simple Syrup (No. 475), and Syrup of Lemon Peel, made as (No. 393.) The Justices Orange Syrup, for Punch, or Puddings. (No. 392.) Squeeze the Oranges, and strain the juice from the pulp into a large pot; boil it up with a pound and a half of fine Sugar to each pint of juice; skim it well, let it stand till cold, and then bottle it, and cork it well. Qbs.— This makes a fine soft mellow flavour to Punch; and added to melted butter, is a good religh to Puddings. Q 2 340 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Vinegar for Salads. —(No. 395.) Take of Tarragon, — Savory,—- Chives, — Eshallots, three ounces each, —a handful of the tops of Mint and Balm, — all dry and pounded; put into a wide-mouthed Bottle, with a gallon of best Vinegar; cork it close, set it in the Sun, and in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the herbs; let it stand a day to settle, and then, strain it through a filtering Bag.— From PanMEN- TIERS /’ Art de Faire les Vinaigres, 8vo. 1805, p. 205. Tarragon Vinegar.— (No. 396.) This is a very agreeable addition to Soups, Salad Sauce (No. 455), and to mix Mustard (No. 370.) Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered Tarragon leaves, 7. e. between Midsummer and Michaelmas, (which should be gathered on a dry day, just before . it flowers,) and pick the leaves off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire; cover them with the best Vinegar, let them steep fourteen days, then strain through a flannel Jelly Bag till it is fine, then pour it into half-pint bottles; cork them carefully, and keep them in a dry place. Obs. — You may prepare Elder-flowers and Herbs in the same manner: Elder and Tarragon are those in most general use in this country. Our neighbours, the French, prepare arta fla- voured with Celery, —Cucumbers,—Capsicums, —Gar- lick, — Eshallot,— Onion,— Capers,— Chervil,—Cress- seed, — Burnet, — Truffles, — Seville Orange Peel,— Ginger, &c.; in short, they impregnate them with almost every Herb, — Fruit, — Flower, — and Spice separately, and in innumerable combinations. ~. Basil Vinegar or Wine. —(No. 397.) Sweet Basil is in full perfection about the middle of August. Messrs. MarLue et AcLocque, Vinaigriers @ Paris, sell 65 sorts of variously flavoured Vingcars, and 28 different sorts of Mustarp. Fill a wide- : 1 : ‘ : a GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 341 mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of Basil, (these give much finer and more flavour than the dried,) and cover them with Vinegar —or Wine,—and let them steep for ten days; if you wish a very strong Essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days more. . Obs.—This is a very agreeable addition to Sauces,— Soups, — and to the mixture usually made for Salads, see (No. 372), and (No. 453.) It is a secret the makers of Mock TurtLe may thank us for telling; a tablespoonful of this, put in when the Soup is finished, will impregnate a Tureen of soup, with the Basil, and Acid flavours, at very small cost, when fresh Basil and Lemons are extravagantly dear. The flavour of the other Swreer, and Savoury Herss, —Cerery, &c. may be procured, and pre- served in the same manner. See (No. 409), or (No. 417), by infusing them in wine — or vinegar. Cress Vinegar.— (No. 397.*) Dry, and pound half an ounce of Cress Seed, (such as is sown in the garden with Mustard,) pour upon it a quart of the best Vinegar, let it steep ten days, shaking it up every day. Obs.—This is very strongly flavoured with Cress,— and for Salads, and Cold Meats, &c. is a great fa- vourite with many;—the Quart of Sauce costs only a Half-penny more than the Vinegar. CreLery Vinegar is made in the same manner. The Crystal Vinegar (No. 407*), which is, we be- tieve, the Pyroligneous Acid, is the best for receiving flavours, —having scarcely any of its own. Green Mint Vinegar, — (No. 398.) Is made precisely in the same manner, and with the same proportions, as the preceding receipt. Obs. — In the early Season of Housed-Lamb, Green 342 _ GRAVIES AND SAUCES, Mint is sometimes not to be got; the above is shes a: welcome substitute. | Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar. —(No. 399.) This. is made in precisely the same manner as di-+ rected in (No. 397.) The flavour of Burnet resembles: Cucumber so exactly, that when infused in Vinegar, the nicest palate would pronounce it to be Cucumber. Obs.— This is a very favourite relish with Cold Meat, Salads, &ec. ws Burnet is in best season from Midsummer to Michaelmas. odd " Horseradish Vinegar. — (No. 399,*) Horseradish is in highest perfection about No- vember. Pour a quart of best Vinegar on three ounces of scraped Horseradish, and an ounce of minced Eshallot,. and one drachm of Cayenne; let it stand a week, and. ‘you will have an excellent relish for Cold Beef, &c. Salads, &c. costing scarcely any thing. N. B. A portion of Black Pepper and Mustard, Celery or Cress Seed, may be added to the above. Obs.— Horseradish Powder (No. 458.*) Garlick Vinegar. — (No. 400.) Garlick is ready for this purpose from Midsummer to Michaelmas, Peel and chop two ounces of Garlick, pour on them a quart of white-wine Vinegar, stop the jar close, and let it steep ten days, shaking it well every day; then pour off the clear liquor into small bottles. Obs. —The Cook must be careful not to use too much of this:—a few drops of it will give a pint of Gravy a sufficient smack of the Garlick; the flavour of which, when slight, and well blended, is one of the finest we have;—when used in sisi it. is the most. offensive. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 343 The best way to use Garlick, is. to. send up some of this Vinegar in a Cruet, and let the company flavour their own Sauce as they like. N.B. The most elegant preparation of the Onion Tribe, is the EsHattor Wing, (No. 402.) Eshallot Vinegar — (No. 401.) Ts made in the same manner, and the Cook should never be without one of these useful auxiliaries; they cost scarcely any thing, but the little trouble of making, —and will save a great deal of trouble in flavouring Soups and Sauces with a taste of Onion. N.B. Eshallots are in high perfection during July, perio kee and September. EsHALLotT WINE. aN. 402.) ~ Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of Eshallots, and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten days,—then pour off the clear liquor on three ounces more Shallots, and let the wine stand on them ten days longer. Obs. — This is rather the most expensive, but zf- nitely the most elegant preparation of Esuatiot, and imparts the Onion flavour to Soups and Sauces, for Chops, Steaks, or boiled Meats, Hashes, &c. more agreeably than any: it does not leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth, or to the breath, nor repeat, as almost all the other preparations of Garlick’ Onion*, &c. do. _-N.B. An ounce of scraped Horseradish may be . added to the above, and a little thin cut Lemon Peel, or a few drops of (No. 408.) * © Tf Leekes you like, but do their smell dis-leeke, Eat. Onyons, and you shall not smell the Leeke ; If you of Onyons would the scent expell, Eat Garlicke, that shall drowne the Onyons’ smell.” See page 59 of the Philosopher’s Banquet, 16mo. London, 1633. 344 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Camp Vinegar. — (No. 403.) Cayenne Pepper, one drachm, pierre weight. Soy, two tablespoonsful. Walnut Catsup, four ditto. Six Anchovies, chopped. A small clove of Garlick, minced fine. Steep all for a month in a pint of best Vinegar, frequently shaking the bottle: strain through a tammis, and keep it in small bottles, corked as tightly as pos- sible. CAYENNE PEPPER. — (No. 404.) . Mr. Accum has informed the Public, (see his book ' on Adulterations,) that from some specimens that came direct to him from India, and others obtained from respectable Oil Shops in London, he has extracted Lead ! “« Foreegn Cayenne Pepper is an indiscriminate mix- ture of the powder of the dried pods of many species of Capsicums, — especially of the Bard Pepper, which is the hottest of all. As it comes to us from the West Indies, it changes the infusion of Turnsole to a.beau- tiful Green,—probably owing to the Salt which is always added to it, and the Red Oxide of Lead, with which it is said to be adulterated.”——Duncan’s New Edinburgh Dispensatory, 1819. Article, Capsicum, p. 81. The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless manner, and often looks as if the pods had lain till they were decayed, before they were dried ;—this ac- counts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly has. If properly dried as soon as gathered, it will be of a clear red colour, to give it the complexion of that made with good fresh-gathered Capsicums or Chillies : some Arnatto, or other vegetable Red colouring matter, is pounded with it; this, Mr. A. assures, is frequently adulterated with Indian Red, 2. e. ‘* Red Lead!” When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a con- siderable portion of Salt, to prevent its flying up and GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 345 hurting the Eyes: this might be avoided, by grinding it in a Mill, which may easily be made close enough, especially if it be passed through a second time, and then sifted through a fine drum-headed sieve, to pro- duce as fine a powder as can be obtained by pounding ; however, our English Chillies may be pounded in a deep mortar without any danger. Capsicums and Chillies are ripe and red, and in finest condition during September and October ; they may be purchased at the Herb Shops in Covent- Garden, the former for about five, the latter for two shillings per hundred. The flavour of the Chiles is very superior to that of the Capsicums,—and will be good in proportion as they are dried as soon as possible, taking care they are not burnt. Take away the stalks, and put the pods into a Cullender; set it before the Fire; they will take full twelve hours to dry; then put them into a mortar, with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound them and rub them till they are fine as possible, aud put them into a well-stopped bottle. _ N.B. We advise those who are fond of Cayenne, not to think it too much trouble to make it of English Chillies, — there is no other way of being sure it is genuine,—and they will obtam a Pepper of much finer flavour, without half the heat of the Foreign. A hundred large Chillies, costing only Two Shillings, will produce you about two ounces of Cayenne, — so it is as cheap as the commonest Cayenne. Essence of Cayenne. —(No. 405.) Put half an ounce of Cayenne Pepper (No. 404), into half a pint of Brandy, or Wine; let it steep for a fortnight, and then pour off the clear liquor. This is nearly equal to fresh Chal jurce. Obs.—Is extremely convenient for the extempore seasoning, and finishing of Soup, Sauces, &c., its fla- Q5 346 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: wour bemg instantly, and equally diffused. Cayenne Pepper varies so much in strength, that it is impos- sible to season Soup any other way to the precise point of piquance. Chilt Vinegar. — (No. 405.*) This is commonly made with the Foreign Bzrd Pepper, — but. you will obtain a much finer flavour from infusing fifty fresh Red English Chilies (cut in half, or pounded,) in a pint of the best Vinegar for a fortnight, or a quarter ounce of Cayenne Pepper, (No, 404.) | ne Ols.—- Many people cannot eat Fish without the addition of an Acid, and Cayenne Pepper; to. such palates, this will be an agreeable relish. Chili, or Cayenne Wine. — (No. 405.**) Pound and steep fifty fresh Red Chilies, or a quarter of an ounce of Cayenne Pepper, in half a pint of Brandy, White Wine, or Claret, for fourteen days. Obs.— This is a “ Bonne Bouche” for the lovers of Cayenne, of which it takes up a larger proportion of its flavour, than of its fire; which being instantly dif- fused, it is a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish Soups and Sauces, &c. Essence of Lemon. Peel,— (No. 407.) Wash and brush clean the Lemons;—let them get perfectly dry;— take a iump of Loaf Sugar, and rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the sugar; —scrape off the surface of the sugar into a preserving pot, and press it hard down; cover it very close, and it will keep for some time. - In the same way you may get the essence of Seville Orange Peel. 2 Obs. —This method of procuring, and. preserving the flavour of Lemon Peel, by making an Oleo-saccha- rum, is far superior to the common practice ef paring off the. rind, or grating it, and pounding, or mixing = Si. abd a ee ee GRAVIES AND SAUCES, 347 that. with sugar:—by this. process, you. obtain the whole of the fine, fragrant, sagential Oil, in which. is ~ contained the flavour. Artricial Lemon Juice. — Wo. ‘407.*). If you add a drachm of Lump Sugar pounded, and six. drops of (No. 408), to three ounces of (BaLt’s, No. 81, New Bond-Street,) Crystal Vinegar, (which is the name given to the Pyroligneous Vinegar,) you will have an excellent substitute for Lemon Juice —- for Fish Sauces and Soups, and many other Culinary purposes. The flavour of the Lemon may also. be communicated to the Vinegar — by infusing some Lemon Peel in it. N.B. The Pyroligneous Vinegar is perfectly free from all flavour, save that: of the pure Acid, — there- fore, it is a very valuable menstruum) for receiving impregnations from various flavouring materials. Tue Pyro-tieneous Acip seems likely to produce quite a revolution in the process of curmg Hams, Her- rings, &c. &c.—See TitLocn’s seeped i Magazine, 1821, No. 173, p. 12. Quint-Essence of Lemon Peel. — (No. 408.) Best oil of Lemon*, one drachm. Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces, introduced by degrees, till: the spirit kills, and com- pletely mixes with the oil. This elegant preparation possesses all the delightful fragance and flavour of the freshest Lemon Peel. Obs.— A few drops on the Sugar you make Punch with, will-instantly impregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious method of grating the rind, or rubbing the Sugar on it. It will be found a superlative substitute for fresh Lemon Peel, for every purpose that it is used for; * This, and other Essential. Oils, are sold in the purest state by STEWART, No. 11, Old Broad Street, City. 348 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Blanc Mange, — Jellies, — Custards, — Ice, — Negus, —Lemonade, — and Pies, Puddings, — Stuffings, — Soups, — Sauces, — Ragouts, &c. See also (No. 393. ) Tincture of Lemon Peel. —(No. 408.*) A very easy, and economical way of obtaining, and preserving the flavour of Lemon Peel, is to fill a wide- mouthed pint bottle half full of Brandy, Rum, or proof ‘spirit; and when you use a Lemon, pare the rind off very thin, and put it into the Brandy, &c.;— in a fortnight, it will impregnate the spirit with the flavour very strongly. Essence of Celery. — (No. 409.) Brandy, or proof spirit, a quarter of a pint. Celery seed bruised, half an ounce, avoirdupois weight. Let it steep for a fortnight. Obs.— A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of Broth, and are an excellent addition to Pease, and other Soups; and the salad mixture of Oil, Vinegar, &c. (No. 392.) N.B. To make Celery Sauce, see ¢ (No. 289.) Essence of Ginger. — (No. 411.) Three ounces of fresh-grated* Ginger, and an ounce of thin cut Lemon Peel, into a quart of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, (apothecaries’ measure ;) let it stand for ten days, shaking it up each day. Obs.— The proper title for this would be “ Tencture of Ginger :” however, as it has obtained the name of ‘< Essence,” so let it be called. N. B. If Ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect, — to warm the Stomach, or dispel eebdeatetr this is the best preparation. * The fragrant aroma of Ginger is so extremely volatile, that it evaporates almost as soon as it is powdered, —and the fine Lemon-peel gout — flies off presently. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 349 Essence of Allspice. —(No. 412.) ~ Oil of Pimento, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure. ® ~— Strong Spirit of Wine, two ounces, mixed by degrees: a few drops will give the flavour of Allspice to a pint of Gravy, — or Mulled Wine, — or to make a Bishop. ! _ _Tincture* of Allspice. — (No. 413.) Of Allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. Brandy, a quart. Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then pour off the clear liquor: it zs @ most grateful addition in all cases where Allspice is used, for making a Bishop, or to MuLLep WINE Extempore, or in Gra- vies, &c. or to flavour and preserye Potted Meats, _(No. 503.) Tincture of Nutmeg —(No. 413.*) Is made with the same proportions of Nutmeg and Brandy as ordered for Allspice. See Obs. to (No. 415.) Essence of Clove and Mace. — (No. 414.) Strongest Spirit of Wine, two ounces, apothecaries’ " measure. Oil of Nutmeg, or Clove, or Mace, a drachm, apo- thecaries’ measure. Tincture of Clove. —(No, 415.) Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. Brandy, one quart. Let it steep ten days: strain it through a flannel sieve. Obs. — Excellent to flayour ‘‘ Bisuop” or “ Mulled Wine.” Essence of Cinnamon.—(No. 416.) Strongest rectified Spirit of Wine, two ounces. Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. * Tinctures are much finer flavoured than. Essences. 350 GRAVIES AND SAUCES, _ Tincture of Cinnamon. — (No. 416.*) This exhilarating Cordial is made by pouring a bottle of genuine Cogniac (No. 471), on three ounces of bruised Cinnamon — (Cassia will not, do.) This restorative was more in vogue formerly, than it is now ;—a teaspoonful of it, and a lump of Sugar, in a glass of good Sherry or Madeira, with the yolk of an Egg beat up in it, —was called ‘‘ Balsamum Vite.” * Cur moriatur homo, qui sumit de Cinnamomo ?”? —* Cinnamon is verie comfortable to the Stomacke, and the principall partes of the bodie.” “* Ventriculum, Jecur, Lienem Cerebrum, nervosque Juvat et roborat.” —‘*T reckon it a great treasure for a student to have by him, in his closet, to take now and then a spoonful. U= COGGAN s Haven of Health, 4to. 1584, pie Bah ~ Obs.— Two teaspoonsful in a wine-glass of water— are a present and pleasant remedy in Nervous Lan- guors— and in relaxations of the Bowels;—Jin the latter case, five drops of Laudanum may be added to each dose. Essence of Marjoram.—(No. 417.) Strongest rectified Spirit, two ounces. Oil of Origanum, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure, VEGETABLE Essences. — (No. 417.*) The flavour of the various SWEET AND SAVOURY Herss may be obtained, by combining their Essential Oils with Rectified Spirit of Wine, in the proportion of one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter, by picking the leaves, and laying them for a couple of hours in a warm place to dry, and then filling a large mouthed bottle with them, and pouring on them Wine, Brandy, Proof Spirit, or Vinegar, and letting them steep for fourteen days. Soup Herb* Spirit. — (No. 420.) Of Lemon Thyme, Winter Savory, Sweet Marjoram, ~ * For the season, &c. when these Herbs, &c.« come in pentec tons and how to dry them, see (No. 461.) z i GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 35t Sweet Basil,— half an ounce of each. . Lemon Peel grated, two drachms. Eshallots, the same. Celery Seed, a drachm, avoirdupois weight. Prepare them as directed in (No. 461); and infuse them in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for ten days; they may also be infused in Wine, or Vinegar, but neither extract the flavour of the ingredients half so well as the spirit. Spirit of Savoury Spice. —- (No. 421.) Black Pepper, an ounce,—Allspice, half an ounce, pounded fine. | Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, avoirdupois weight. Infuse in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for ten days:——or, put the ingredients enumerated in (No. 457), in a quart of Brandy, or Proof Spirit, for the like time. Soup-herb, and Savoury Spice Spirit. — (No. 422.) Mix half a pint of Soup-herb spirit with a quarter pint of spirit of Savoury spice. Obs. — These preparations are valuable auxiliaries. to ammediately herghten the flavour, and finish Soups, Sauces, Ragotits, §c.—will save much time and trouble to the Cook, and keep for twenty years. Relish for Chops, &c. — (No. 423.) Pound fine an ounce of Black Pepper, and half an ounce of Allspice, with an ounce of Salt, and half an — ounce of scraped Horseradish, and the same of Eshal- lots peeled and quartered; put these ingredients into a pint of Mushroom Catsup, or Walnut Pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, and then strain it. Obs. — A teaspoonful or two of this is generally an acceptable addition, mixed with the Gravy usually sent up for Chops, and Steaks ; ; see (No. 356), or added to thick melted butter. 352 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Fish Sauce. —(No. 425.) Two wineglasses of Port, and two of Walnut pickle; four of Mushroom catsup; half a dozen Anchovies pounded, the like number of Eshallots sliced and pounded; a tablespoonful of Soy, and half a drachm of Cayenne pepper: let them simmer gently for ten minutes, strain it, and when cold, put it into bottles; well corked and sealed over, it will keep for a consi- derable time. Aas Obs. —This is commonly called Quin’s Sauce, and was given to me by a very sagacious Saucemaker. Keeping Mustard. — (No. 427.) Dissolve three ounces of Salt in a quart of boiling water, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped Horseradish; closely cover down the jar, and let it stand twenty-four hours : — strain, and mix it by degrees with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat-well to- gether till quite smooth and of the proper thickness ; put into a wide mouthed bottle, and stop it closely. .£ See also (Nos. 369 and 370.) SAUCE SUPERLATIVE*. —- (No. 429.) Claret, or Port wine, and Mushroom Catsup, see (No. 439), a pint of each. , | Halfa pint of Walnut or other Pickle liquor. Pounded Anchovies, four ounces. Fresh Lemon-peel pared very thin, an ounce. Peeled and sliced Eshallots, the same. Scraped Horseradish, ditto. Allspice and Black Pepper powdered, half an ounce each. Cayenne, one drachm, or Curry powder, three drachms. | * We hope this title will not offend those who may quote against it the old Adage, that “ Good Appetite is the best Sauce.”— Allowing this to be generally true, (which is a more candid confession than could be expected from a Cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers will vote with us, that there are many good things (Fish especially) that would be rather insipid, — without a little Sauce of another kind. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 353 _Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put these into a wide mouth bottle, stop it close, shake it up every day for a fortnight, and strain it, "(when some think it improved by the addition of a ‘quarter pint of Soy, or thick Browning, see (No. 322), and will have a “‘ DELICIOUS DOUBLE RELISH. *~ his composition, is one of the “ chef-d’ceuvres” of many experiments I have made, for the purpose of enabling the good Housewives of Great Britain to prepare their own Sauces : it 2s equally agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &c., and as a fair lady may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, — by the certainty that all the ingredients are good and wholesome. Ovs.— Under an infinity of circumstances, a Cook may be in want of the substances necessary to make Sauce; the above composition of the several articles from which the various gravies derive their flavour, will be found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large tablespoonful with a quarter pint of thickened melted butter, broth, or (No. 252), five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly equal to drawn-gravy, and as likely to put your Lingual nerves into good humour as any thing I know. To make a boat of Sauce for Poultry, &c., put a piece of butter about as big as an egg, into a stew- pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted, put to ita tablespoonful of flour; stir it thoroughly together, and - add to it two tablespoonsful of Sauce, and by degrees, about half a pint of broth or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a few minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready. | QUINT-ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY *. —(No. 433.) The goodness of this preparation depends almost . * The invention of this favourite Fish Sauce is claimed by Mr. Thos. Young ; see “ the Epicure,” Harding, London, 1815, page 12. He says, “ there still 364 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. éntirely on having fine mellow Fish, that have been in pickle long enough (2. e. about twelve months) to dissolve easily, — yet are not at all rusty. Choose those that are in the state they come over’ “in not such as have been put into fresh pickle, mixed with Red Paint*, which some add to improve the complexion of the Fish, — it has been said, that others have a trick of putting Anchovy liquor on pickled Sprats+: you will easily discover this by washing one of them, and tasting the flesh of it, which, in the fine Anchovy, is mellow, red, and high flavoured, and the bone moist and oily. Make only as much as will soon be used, the fresher it is the better. Put ten or twelve Anchovies into a mortar, and pound them to a pulp; — put this into a very clean iron or silver, or very well tinned t saucepan, then put a table- spoonful of cold spring water into the mortar, shake: it round, and pour it to the pounded Anchovies, set them by the side of a slow fire, very frequently stirring them together, till they are melted, which they will be in the course of five minutes.— Now stir in a quarter of a drachm of good Cayenne pepper (No. 404), and let it remain by the side of the fire for a few minutes longer} then, while it is warm, rub it through a hair sieve§, with the back of a wooden spoon. A roll of thin cut Lemon-veel infused with the An- is a cabal between some of the makers of this sauce, which of them makes it best. Thongh they do not pretend to the invention, all of them denominate themselves the best makers. One is *‘ the real maker!!!” another “‘ the superior!!! another “ the improved!!!” another ‘ the original supe- rior!!! with cautions to guard against the ‘* spuriows makers.” BurRGEss, No. 107, next the Savoy Steps, in the Strand, has long been famous for making this Sauce. * “ Several samples which we examined of this Fish Sauce, have been found contaminated with Lead.””— See ACCUM ON ADULTERATIONS, page 328. + They may do very well for common palates; but to imitate the fine flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well educated Gourmand, still remains in the catalogue of the Sauce-maker’s desiderata, { The best vessel for this purpose is the pint Batinmarie, sold by Lloyd, Tronmonger, near Norfolk Street, Strand. § The Economist may take the thick remains that wont pass through the sieve, and pound it with some flour, and make ANCHOVY PASTE, or POWDER. See (Nos. 434,and 435.) a eT eee a i a ve ee ! GRAVIES AND SAUCES: 355: chovy, imparts a fine fresh, delicate aromatic flavour, which is very grateful; this is only recommended when you make Sauce for immediate use, — it will keep much: better without; if you wish to acidulate it, instead of water make it with artificial Lemon juice (No. 407%), or add a little of Coxwell’s concrete acid to it. Obs.— The above is the proper way, to perfectly dissolve Anchovy*, and incorporate it with the water ;. which, if completely saturated, will continue suspended. To prevent the separation of Essence of Anchovy, and give it the appearance of being fully saturated with Fish, — various other expedients have been tried, such as dissolving the fish in thin Water Gruel, or Barley Water, or thickening it with Mucilage, Flour, &c.,— when any of these things are added, it does not keep half so well as it does without them, and to preserve it, they overload it with Cayenne Pepper. Mem. You cannot make Essence of Anchovy half so cheap as you can buy it. — Thirty prime Fish, weighing a pound and a quarter, and costing 4s. 6d., and two table- spoonsful of water made me only Half a Pint of Essence, — you may commonly buy that quantity ready: made for 2s., and we have seen an Advertisement offering it for sale so low as 2s. 6d. per Quart. It must be kept very closely stopped, — when you tap a bottle of Sauce, throw away the old perforated Cork, and put in a new taper velvet cork ;—if the arr gets to it, the fish takes the rust+, and it is sporled directly. Essence of Anchovy is sometimes coloured{ with bole Armeniac, Venice red, &c.; but all these additions deteriorate the flavour of the sauce, and the Palate and * Epicure QuIN used to say, “‘ Of all the Banns of Marriage I ever heard, none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicate ANN-CHOVY with good JOHN-DORY.” ; + Rust in Anchovies, if I’m not mistaken, Is as bad as Rust in Steel, or Rust in Bacon.” YOuNG’s Epicure, page 14. {If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some Lobster’s Eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the Complexion of your Sauce, but improve its Flavour. This is the only Rouge we can recommend. See note. to.(No. 284.) _ 356: GRAVIES AND SAUCES~ Stomach suffer for the gratification of the Eye, which, in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by the’ sagacious Gourmand, at the expense of these two tet! mobiles of his pursuits. _ *,* Essence of Anchovy is sometimes made with Sherry or Madeira wine, or good Mushroom catsup (No. 439), anstead of water. If you like the acid flavour, add a little citric acid, or dissolve them in good Vinegar. _N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient. way of using Anchovy, as each guest may mix sauce for himself, and make it strong or weak, according to his own _ taste. It is also much more Economical, as plain melted Butter (No. 256) serves for other purposes at table. Ancuovy Pastks, or le Beurre d’ Anchois. (No. 434.) Pound them in a mortar, then rub it through a fine sleve; pot it; cover it with clarified butter, and keep. it in a cool place. N.B. If you have Essence of Anchovy, you may make Anchovy Paste Extempore, by rubbing the Essence with as much Flour as will make a paste. Mem. This is merely mentioned as the means of making it imme- diately, — it will not keep. Obs. — This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of a little Flour of Mustard,—a pickled Walnut, — Spice (No. 460),— Curry Powder (No. 455), —or Cayenne, and then becomes a rival to “ da vératable Sauce d’Enfer” (No. 538),—or Pdte @ la Diable for Deviling Biscuits (No. 574), — Grills (No. 538), &c. It is an excellent garnish for Fish, put in pats round the edge of the dish, or will make Anchovy Toast (No. 573), — or Devil a Biscuit Wo. 574), &c. in high style. : Anchovy Powder. — (No. 435.) Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and make them into a paste with dried flour, roll it into thin cakes, and dry them in a Dutch oven before a GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 357 slow fire; pounded to a fine powder, and put into a well-stopped bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very savoury relish sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See Oyster powder (No. 280.) Obs. —To this may be added a small portion of Cayenne Pepper, grated Lemon Peel, and Citric Acid. Walnut Catsup. — (No. 438.) Take six half sieves of green walnut shells, put them into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, from two to three pounds, let them stand for six days, fre- quently beating and mashing them; by this time the shells become soft and pulpy, then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and at the same time by raising the tnb on that side, the liquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out; the mashing and banking up may be repeated as often as liquor is found. The quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients, let it slowly boil for half an hour: when bottled let an equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle ;. when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up; cork them tight, seal them over, and put into a cool and dry place for one year before it is used. N.B. For the above we are indebted to a respectable Oilman, who has many years proved the Receipt. MUSHROOM CATSUP.—(No. 439.) If you love Goop Cartsvp, gentle Reader, make it yourself *, after the following directions, and you will have a Delicious Relish for Made dishes, Ragouts, Soups, Sauces or Hashes. * “The Mushrooms employed for preparing ready made Catsup, are generally those which are in a putrefactive state. 1n a few days after those Fungi haye been gathered, they become the habitation of myriads of insects.” Accum on Culinary Poisons, 12mo, 1820. p. 350. 358 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Mushroom gravy, approaches the nature and flavour of Meat gravy, more than any vegetable juice; and is the superlative substitute for it, in Meagre Soups, and Extempore Gravies, the Chemistry of the Kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably awaken the Palate, and encourage the Appetite. A couple of Quarts of Double Catsup, made accord- ing to the following Receipt, will save you some score pounds of Meat, besides a vast deal of time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good Sauce as can be made for either Fish, Flesh, or Fowl. See (No. 307.) I believe the following is the best way of extracting and preparing the Essence of Mushrooms, so as to procure, and preserve their flavour for a considerable length of time. — Look out for Mushrooms from the beginning of September. : Take care they are the right sort, and fresh gathered. Full grown Flaps are to be preferred: put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with Salt, then another layer of Mushrooms, and some more salt on them, and so on alternately, salt and mushrooms ; — let them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to break; — then pound them in a mortar, or mash them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; — then pour them into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce of whole Black Pepper; stop the jar very close, and set it in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. — Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair sieve (without squeezing* the mushrooms) into a clean * The Squeezings are the perquisite of the Cook, to make Sauce for the Second Table; do not deprive her of it, it is the most profitable save-ali you can give her, and will enable her to make up a good Family Dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the Mushrooms have Ween squeezed, dry them-in the Dutch oven, and make MusHRroom POWDER. GRAVIES AND SAUCES, 359 stewpan; let it boil very gently for half an hour; those who are for SuperLatTive Cartsup, will continue the boiling till the Mushroom juice is reduced to half the quantity, it may then be called Double Cat-sup or Doe- sup. | There are several advantages attending this con- centration; it will keep much better, and only half the quantity be required ; — so you can flavour Sauce, &c. without thinning it:—neither is this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is eva- porated, skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day, then pour it off as gently as possible, (so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug), through a tammis, or thick flannel bag, till itis perfectly clear; adda tablespoonful of good Brandy to each pint of Catsup, and let it stand as before ; — a fresh sediment _ will be deposited, from which the Catsup is to be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints or half pints, (which have been washed with Brandy or spirit); it is best to keep it in such quantities as are soon used. Take especial care that it is closely corked, and sealed down, or dipped in Bottle Cement. If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it be badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil. Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again with a few pepper- corns. We have ordered no more Spice, &c. than is abso- lutely necessary to feed the Catsup, and keep it from fermenting. Brandy is an excellent preservative to all preparations of this sort, Pickles, &c. &c. _.The compound, commonly called Catsup, is generally an injudicious combination of so many different tastes, that the flavour of the Mushroom is overpowered by a 360 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: farrago of Garlick, Shallot, Anchovy, Mustard, Horse radish, Lemon-peel, Beer, Wine, Spice, &c. Obs. — A tablespoonful of Douste CaTsup will impregnate half a pint of Sauce with the full flavour of Mushroom, in much greater perfection than either pickled, or powder of mushrooms. We have bought good Mushroom Catsup at BuTLER’s’ herb and seed ‘shop, opposite Henrietta Street, COT. Garden. ‘QUINTESSENCE oF Musurooms.—(No. 440.) This delicate Relish, is made by sprinkling a little salt over either flap or button Mushrooms ; — three hours after, mash them, — next day, strain off the liquor that will flow from them, put it into a stewpan, and boil it till it is reduced to half. It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the Catsups, which, in order to preserve them, must have Spice, eh hich overpowers the flavour at the Mush- rooms. An Artificial Mushroom Bed will supply this all the year round. To make Sauce with this, see (No. 307.) Oyster Catsup. — (No. 441.) Take fine fresh Milton oysters; wash them in their own liquor, skim it, pound them in a marble mortar, to a pint of Oysters add a pint of Sherry, boil them up, and add an ounce of salt, two drachms of pounded mace, and one of Cayenne, — let it just boil up again, skim it, and rub through a sieve, and when cold, bottle it, and cork it well, and seal it down. Obs.— See also (No. 280) and Obs. to (No. 278.) N.B. It is the best way to pound the Salt and Spices, &c. with the Oysters. Obs. — This composition very agreeably heightens the flavour of white sauces, and white made dishes; and if you add a glass of brandy to it, it will keep good for GRAVIES AND SAUCES. _ 361 a considerable time longer than Oysters are out of season in England. Cockle and Muscle Catsup — (No. 442.) May be made by treating them in the same way as the Oysters in the preceding Receipt. | Pudding Catsup. — (No. 446.) Halfa pint of Brandy, “ Essence of Punch” (No. 479), or ‘* Curagou” (No. 474), or ‘* Noyeau,” a pint of Sherry, An ounce of thin pared Lemon peel, Half an ounce of Mace. Steep them for fourteen days, then strain it, and add a quarter pint of Capillaire, or (No. 475.) This will keep for years, and mixed with melted butter, is a delicious relish to Puddings, and Sweet dishes. See Pudding Sauce (No. 269), and the Justice’s Orange Syrup (No. 392.) Potatoe* Starch. —(No. 448.) Peel, and wash a pound of full grown Potatoes, grate them on a bread grater into-a deep dish, containing a quart of clear water; stir it well up, and then pour it through a hair sieve, and leave it ten minutes to setile, till the water is quite clear, then pour off the water, and put a quart of fresh water to it, stir it up, let it settle, and repeat this till the water is quite clear; you will at last find a fine white powder at the bottom of the vessel. (The criterion of this process being com- pleted, is the purity of the water that comes from it after stirring it up.) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair sieve to dry, either in the sun, or before the fire, and it is ready for use, and in a well stopped bottle will keep good for many months. * < Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by Frost Germination, &c., provided they are raw, constantly afford Starch, differing only in quality, the round grey ones the most, a pound producing about two ounces.” PARMENTIER 0n Nutritive Vegetables, 8vo, p. 31. R 362 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. If this be well made, half an ounce (i.e. a table- spoonful) of it mixed with two tablespoonsful of cold water, and stirred into a Soup or Sauce, just before you take it up, will thicken a pint of it to ‘the consist- ence of Cream. Obs. — This preparation much resembles the | @ Bis dian Arrow Root,” and is a good substitute for it; it gives a fulness on the palate to Gravies and Sauces at hardly any expense, and by some is used to thicken Melted butter instead of Flour. As it is perfectly tasteless, it will not alter the flavour of the most delicate Broth, &c. Or THE FLour oF PorarToEs. ‘‘ A patent has been recently obtained at Paris, a gold medal bestowed, and other honorary distinction - granted, for the discovery and practice on a large scale of preparing from potatoes a_jine flour; a sago, a flour equal to ground rice, and a semolina or paste, of which Ilb. is equal to L3lb. rice, 1$1b. vermicelli, or, it is asserted, 8lbs. of raw potatoes. ‘‘ These preparations are found valuable to mzx with wheaten flour for bread, to make biscuits, pastry, pye- crusts, and for all soups, gruels, and panada. «« Large engagements have been made for these pre- parations with the French marine, and military and other hospitals, with the approbation of the faculty. « An excellent bread, it is said, can be made of this flour, at half the cost of wheaten bread. « Heat having been applied in these preparations, the articles will keep unchanged for years, and on board ship, to China and back; rats, mice, worms, and insects do not infect or destroy this flour. “Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten minutes fit for food, when fire and all other resource may be wanted ; and twelve ounces are sufficient for a Fe s sustenance, in case of necessity. ‘‘ The Physicians and Surgeons in the Hospitals, in i t GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 36S - ease of great debility of the stomach, have employed these preparations with advantage. “The point of this discovery is, the cheapness of preparation, and the conversion of a surplus growth of potatoes into a keeping stock, in an elegant, portable and salubrious form.” : Salad Mixture: —or Piquante Sauce for Cold Meat, Fish, &c.—(No. 453.) See also (No. 372.) Pound together the yolks of two hard Eggs (No. 547.) An ounce of scraped Horseradish, Half an ounce of Salt, A tablespoonful of made Mustard (No. 370.) Four drachms of minced Eshallots, see (No. 402.) One ditto of Celery Seed, see (No. 409.) Same of Cress Seed, And half ditto of Cayenne, see (No. 404.) Adding gradually one wineglass, of Salad Oil, three of Burnet, see (No. 399), Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), or Cress or Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399*); when thoroughly incorporated, set it over a very gentle fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it has simmered to the consistence of cream, pass it through a tammis or fine sieve. Curry Powder. — (No. 455.) Dry and reduce the following Spices, &c. to a fine powder, in the same way as in the foregoing receipt. Coriander Seed, three ounces. Turmeric, three ounces. | Black Pepper, one ounce. Ginger, one ounce. Lesser Cardamoms, half an ounce. Cayenne Pepper, Cinnamon, Cummin Seed, a quarter ounce of each, Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them in a well-stopped bottle. ~ Obs.— This receipt, was an attempt to imitate some R 2 364 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. of the Best India Curry Powder, selected for me, by a friend at the India House: —the flavour approxi- mates to the Indian Powder so exactly, the most pro- found Palaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy of the original Curry Stuff. See (No. 348), for Curry Sauce. N.B. Chickens,— Rabbits, —Sweetbreads,—Breasts of Veal,—Veal Cutlets,—Mutton,—Lamb,—or Pork Chops,— Lobster,—Turbot,— Soles,— Eels, —Oysters, &c. are dressed Curry fashion, see (No. 497), or Stew them in (No. 329 or 348), and flavouring it with (No. 455.) ) N.B. The common fault of Curry Powder is the too great proportion of Cayenne, (to the milder Aromatics from which its agreeable flavour is derived), preventing a sufficient quantity of the Curry Powder being used. Savoury Ragott Powder. —(No. 457.) “Salt, an ounce, Mustard, half an ounce, * Allspice, a quarter of an ounce, Black Pepper ground, and Lemon-peel grated, or of (No. 407), pounded and sifted fine, half an ounce each, Ginger, and Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce each, Cayenne Pepper, two drachms. Pound them patiently, and pass them through a fine hair sieve; bottle them for use. ‘The above articles will pound easier, and finer, if they are dried first in a Dutch oven+ before a very gentle fire, at a good dis- tance from it;—if you give them much heat, the fine * Tf you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead of Allspice put in Mace and Cloves. The above is very similar to the Powder-fort used in King Richard the Second’s hitchen, As D. 1390. See “* Pegge Forme of Cury,’”’ Pp. XXX. ; + The back part of these Ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done too much, before those in the ront are done enough, GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 365 flavour of them will be presently evaporated, and they will soon get a strong rank empyreumatic taste. N.B. Infused in a quart of Vinegar or Wine, they make a savoury relish for Soups, Sauces, &c. Obs. — The Spices in a Ragout are indispensable to give it a flavour, but not a predominant one; — their presence should be rather supposed than perceived ;— they are the invisible spirit of good Cookery: indeed, a Cook without Spice, would be as much at a loss, as a Confectioner without Sugar:—a happy mixture of them, and proportion to each other, and the other ingredients, is the “ chef-d@uvre” of a first-rate Cook. The art of combining Spices, &c., which may be termed the ‘* Harmony of Flavours,” no one hitherto has attempted to teach: and ‘“ the rule of Thumb,” is the only Guide that experienced Cooks have heretofore given for the assistance of the Novice,—in the (till now, in these pages explained, and rendered, we hope, per- fectly intelligible to the humblest capacity,) OccuLT Art or Cooxery.—This is the first time Receipts in Cookery have been given accurately by weight or measure. (See Obs. on ‘“* the Education of a Cook's Tongue,” pages 62 and 63.) PEA POWDER. —(No. 458.) Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each of dried Mint and Sage,—a drachm of Celery Seed, —and a quarter drachm of Cayenne Pepper; rub them through a fine sieve. This gives a very savoury relish to Pea Soup, and to Watergruel, which, by its help, if the eater of it has not the most lively imagination, he may fancy he is sipping good Pease Soup. Obs.—A drachm of Allspice, or Black Pepper, may be pounded with the above, as an addition, or instead of the Cayenne. Horseradish Powder. — (No. 458.*) The time to make this, is during November and December ; slice it the thickness of a shilling, and lay 366 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. it to dry very gradually in a Dutch oven, (a strong heat soon evaporates its flavour), when flay carte ey gomes it and bottle it.. Obs. — See Hovseradinh Vinegar (No. 399.4) doe Soup-herb neneirss or Kestatle 8 Reelestien No. 459.) Q Dried Parsley, | ued bey ir Winter Savory; | oP a " us youd Sweet Marjoram, Stroh gles s Lemon-thyme, of each. two ounces 3 hid B Lemon-peel, cut very thin and dried, and! ft " Sweet Basil, an ounce of each. | *. Some add to the above, Bay-leaves ai Getery Seed, a drachm of each. Dry them in a,warm, but not too uot Dubebo oven: when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, and pass them through: a double hair sieve: put in -a) bottle closely stopped, they will retain their Fepexpace and flavour for several.months. N. B. These :Herbs.are in full Serena, in July: and August, see (No..461.*) An infusion, of the above in Vinegar or Wine, makes a good relishing Sauce, but the Flavour is best when made with fresh gathered herbs, as directed in (No. 397.) Obs. — This composition of the fine aromatic herbs, is an invaluable acquisition to the Cook, at those seasons or situations when fresh herbs cannot be had; and we prefer it to the Ragout powder (No. 457), it impregnates sauce, soup, &c. With as mtich relish, and renders it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory nerves, without so much risk of offending the Stomach, &c. se Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Quintessence a Ragout. — (No. 460.) . Take three parts of Soup-herb powder (No. 459), to one part of Savoury powder (No. 457.) Obs. — This agreeable combination of the atomati¢ 5 : es . GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 367 Spices and Herbs should be kept ready prepared; it will save a great deal of time in cooking Ragouts, Stuffings, Forcemeat-balls, Soups, Sauces, &c.; kept dry and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength may be preserved undiminished for some time. N. B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of Vinegar or Wine with a very agreeable relish. To Dry Sweet anv Savoury Herss. — (No. 461.) For the following accurate and caluable Information, the reader is indebted to Mr. Butter, Herbalist and Seedsman, (opposite Henrietta Street), Covent Garden Market, of whom the several articles may be obtained of the best Quality, at the fair Market Price. ‘It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of attending the markets, to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing SWEET HERBS, &c. “ All Vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest of Juice and Flavour, just before they begin to flower ; the first and last crop have neither the fine flayour, nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe. “« Take care they are gathered on adry day, by which means they will have a better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt* and dust, cut off the roots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, 7. e. “ Kzll’em quick,” says a great Botanist; — by this means, their flavour will be best preserved, — there can be no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, &c. hastily, by the aid of arti- ficial heat rather than by the heat of the sun. In the * This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If you buy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them frum dirt and dust, by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands: over a hair sieve,— put them into the sieve, and shake them well, and the dust will go through. 368 GRAVIES AND SAUCES: application of artificial heat, the only caution requisite is to avoid burning; and of this, a sufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour.—The common custom is, when they are perfectly dried, to put them in Bags, and lay them in a dry place. But the best way to preserve the flavour of aromatic plants, is to pick off the leaves as soonas they are dried, and to pound them | and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them in well-stopped Bottles,* see (No. 459.) BasiL is in the best state for drying from the middle of August, and three weeks after, see (No. 397.) Kwottrep Marjoram, from the beginning of July, and during the same. Winter Savory, the latter end of July, and throughout August, see Obs. to (No. 397.) SumMER Savory, the latter end of July, and throughout August. ; THYME, Lemon-THyYME, | OranGe-THyMeEt, during June and July. | Mint, latter end of June, and during July, see (No. 398.) Sace, August and September. Tarracon, June, July, August, see (No. 396.) Cuervit, May, June, July, see (No. 264.) Burnet, June, July, August, see (No. 399.) Pars.ey, May, June, July, see N.B. to (No. 261.) Frenne, May, June, July. Ecprer Frowers, May, June, July. Orance Frowers, May, June, July. N.B. Herbs nicely dried, are a very acceptable sub- stitute, — when fresh ones cannot be got, —but however carefully dried, — the flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs is incomparably finer. * The common custom is, to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a shelf in the Kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: thus they soon lose their flavour. + A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 369 PICKLES.* — (No. 462.) Commencing the list with Watnuts, I must take this opportunity of impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the due season; for of all the variety of articles in this department, to furnish the well regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, —for frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they become hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one, therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at market; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the disappointment of finding six months hence, when you go to your pickle jar expecting a fine relish for your Chops, &c., to find the nuts incased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel: I therefore recommend you to look for Watnuts from the twelfth of July ; that being, I may say, the earliest possible time. NasTERTIUMS are to be had by the middle of July. GaRLIck, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. EsuaLLots, ditto. Ontons, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. GuERKINs are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. * We are sorry we have so few Receipts to give for Pickling,—all our leisure has hitherto been fully occupied with Culinary Experiments; we hope soon to have opportunity for proceeding to ascertain the best processes, for making in the easiest and most economical manner, those Domestic comforts, ** HOME BREWED BEER,— HOME BAKED BREAD, — PASTRY,— PICKLES, — PRESERVES,—and ENGLISH WINES,’— which will form an Appendia to this Work, and will be sold separately. We are not fond of PicKLEs,—these Sponges of Vinegar are often very Indigestible, — especially in the crisp state in which they are most admired ; and recommend those who have any regard for their Stomach, yet still wish to indulge their Mouth, —instead of eating Pickles, which are really merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c., to use the Flavoured Vinegars, such as Burnet (No.399), Horseradish (No. 399*), Tar- ragon (No. 396), Mint (No. 397), Cress (Nos. 307 *, 401, 403, 4(5*, 453, 457,) &c.: by combinations of these a relish may easily be composed exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater. — The Pickle made to preserve Cucum- bers, &c: is generally so strongly impregnated with Garlick, Mustard, and Spice, &c. that the original flavour of the Vegetable is quite overpowered ; and if the Eater shuts his Eyes,—his Lingual nerves will be puzzied to inform him whether he is munching an Onion or a Cucumber, &c. RO 370 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. CucumBERs are to be had by the middle of ey: and for a month after. » Metons for Maneoss are to be me by the middle . of July, and for a month after. CapsicuMs, green, red, and yellow, the end of Sule, and following month. t. . Cuittries, the end of July, and follamtne month : See (Nos. 404 and 405*), and (No. 405%), | Love Apres, or Tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. ‘See (No. 443.) | ve CAULIFLOWER, for pickling, July and August. at ARTICHOKES, for pickling, July and August. JERUSALEM ARTicHOoKEs, for pickling, July. and August, and for three months after. Ravtsu Pops, for pickling, July. FRENCH Beans, for pickling, July. ' MusuRooms, for pickling and catsup, September. _. See (No. 439.) fg OY Rep CassaceE, August. ae WuHiTE CABBAGE, September and October. SAMPHIRE, August. HorserapisH, November and December. The two following Receipts were given us by a very good Cook ;— we have not proved them:— WALNUTS. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an Egg, put the Walnuts into it to soak a week, when the water turns black, put them on a sieve to drain for three or four hours, and then ona cloth; when they are quite dry, put them into (an unglazed) stone jar. | To make the Pickle, get the best white Wine Vinegar,’ —to every quart put an ounce of Black Pepper, the same of Mustard Seed, half an ounce of Ginger, and twelve Shallots. Boil it gently a quarter of an hour, then pour it over the Walnuts; when they are cold, keep them from the air by covering them with a Cork ‘which fits close, and that with a wetted Bladder and a Leather. / GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 371 GHERKINS. Put your Gherkins into unglazed stone jars, and cover them with a brine of salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg, cover them down for two days, then put the water away from the Gherkins, and put some boiling Vinegar over them, and do so every day ull they turn Green, then make a pickle of fresh vinegar and spices, &c., the same as for Walnuts, and when cold, cover them close with a cork, bladder, and paper. N.B. Quart glass Tze-Overs, &c. which can be corked tight, are the best vessels to keep Pickles in. THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE. — (No. 463.) This is a very convenient auxiliary to the Cook. It may be arranged as a pyramidical Epergne for a Dormant in the centre of the table, or Travelling Store Chest. The. following Sketch will enable any one to fit up an assortment of flavouring materials according to their own. fancy and palate, and, we presume, will furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of the gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred Grand Gourmand of the first magnitude, (if Cayenne and Garlick — have not completely consumed the sensibility of his Palate,) and consists of a “Sauce Box,” containing four eight- ounce bottles*, sixteen four-ounce, and eight two- ounce bottles :— 1 Pickles... - 15 Soy (No. 436.) 2 Brandy. 16 Lemon Juice. 3 Curacoa (No. 474.) 17 Essence of Anchovy (No, 433.) 4 Syrup (No. 475.) 18 Pepper. 5 Salad Sauce (Nos. 372, and 453.) 19 Cayenne (Nos. 405, or 405.**) 6 Pudding Catsup (No. 446.) 20 Soup-herb Powder (No. 459.) 7 Sauce Superlative,or double relish | 21 Ragout Powder (No. 457.) (No, 429.) 22 Pea Powder (No. 458.) 8 Wainut Pickle. 23 Zest (No. 255.) 9 Mushroom Catsup (No. 439.) 24 Essence of Celery (No. 409.) 10 Vinegar. 25 Sweet Herbs (No. 419.) 11 Oil. 26 Lemon Peel (No. 408.) 12 Mustard, see (Nos.'370, and 427.) | 27 Eshallot Wine (No. 402.) 13 Salty see '(No. 371.) } 28 Powdered Mint. 14 Curry Powder (No. 455.) * If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces as LYNE’s graduated measures are, it will saye trouble in compounding. vie GRAVIES AND SAUCES: In a drawer under, Half a dozen one ounce bottles. Nutmeg grater. Weights and scales. _ | Table and tea-spoon. A graduated glass measure, divided | Knife and fork. into tea and table spoons. A steel, anda Corkscrew. ‘| Small mortar. 5 | 13 | 21 4 SEG | SS SIR te 6 | 14 | 22 7 {15 Wee3 2 SCT RG re 8 | 16 | 24 9 4) 1725 3 So a 10 | 18 | 26 11 | 19 | 27 4 ae ee 12 | 20| 28 N.B. The portable Macazine or Taste alluded to in page 51, may be furnished with—a four-ounce bottle for Cogniac (No. 471), —a ditto for Curacoa (No. 474),—an ounce bottle for Essence of Anchovy (No. 433),—and one of like size for Cayenne Pepper (No. 404, or 405.) Toast and Water. —(No. 463.*) Cut a Crust of Bread off a stale loaf, about twice the thickness toast is usually cut; toast it carefully until it be completely browned all over, but not at all blackened or burnt: put this in a jug, and pour upon, it as much boiling water as you wish to make into drink, cover the jug, and let it stand till it is quite cold: the fresher it is the better. Obs.— A roll of thin fresh cut Lemon or dried Orange Peel, or some Currant Jelly (No. 475*), Apples sliced or roasted, &c. infused with the Bread, are eratemal additions. N.B. This is arefreshing Summer Drink; and when the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse _ perspiration — may be drunk plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in the day- - it will then become warmed by the heat of the air, and may be drunk GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Sie without danger — which water, Cold as it comes from the well, cannot in Hot weather. Or, To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and just cover it with boiling water; let it stand till cold, then fill it up with cold spring water, and pour it through a fine sieve. Obs.— The above is a pleasant and excellent beve- rage, very grateful to the Stomach, and deserves a constant place by the Bedside. Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup.— (No. 464.) A quart of mild Ale, a glass of white Wine, one of Brandy, one of Capillaire, the juice of a Lemon, a roll of the Peel pared thin, Nutmeg grated on the top, (a sprig of Borrage* or Balm,) and a bit of toasted Bread. Cider Cup — (No. 465.) Is the same, — only substituting Cider for Beer. Flip. — (No. 466.) Keep grated Ginger and Nutmeg with a little fine dried Lemon Peel rubbed together in a mortar. To make a quart of Flip:— Put the Ale on the fire to warm, — and beat up three or four Eggs with four ounces of moist Sugar, a teaspoonful of grated Nutmeg or Ginger, and a quartern of good old Rum, or Brahdy. When the Ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the Rum and Eggs, &c. into another ;—-turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as Cream. N.B. This quantity I styled One Yard of Flannel. Obs. — The above is given in the words of the Pub- * “© BORRAGE is one of the four Cordial flowers;” it comforts the heart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says Salmon in the 45th page of his “ Household Companion,” London, 1710. And Evy Lyn, in page 13 of his Acetaria, says —‘‘ The sprigs, in wine, are of known virtue to revive the Hypochondriac, and cheer the hard Student.”—Combined with the ingredients in the above Receipt, we have frequently observed it produce all the Cardiac and Exhilarating effects ascribed to it. 374 GRAVIES AND ‘SAUCES. Tewahdiddle. +(No: 467.) ye A pint of Table Beer, (or Ale, if you intend it for: a supplement to your ‘* Night-Cap,”) a tablespoonful of Brandy, and a teaspoonful of brown Sugar, or clarified Syrup (No. 475);— a little grated Nutmeg or Ginger may be added, and a roll of very thin cut Lemon Peel. Obs.— Before our readers make any remarks on this Composition, we beg of them to taste it; if the mate- rials are good, and their palate vibrates in unison with. our own, they will find it one of the pleasantest beve- rages they ever put to their lips,—and, as Lord Ruthven says, “this is a right Gossip’s Cup, that far exceeds all the Ale that ever Morner Buncu made in her life-time.”— See his Lordship’s Experiments on ooery? &c. 18mo. London, 1654, page 215. Str FLEETWOOD SHEPHERD’S Sack Posse. : (No. 467.*) “« From fam’d Barbadoes on the western main ‘Fetch Sugar ounces four — fetch Sack from Spain A pint, — and from the Eastern Indian Coast Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast ; O’er flaming Coals let them together heat, Till the ali-conquering Sack dissolve the sweet; O’er such another fire, put Eggs just ten, New born, trom tread of Cock ard Rump of Hen; Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking To see the untimely end-of ten fine Chicken ; From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet— |. ., 4» A quart of milk from gentle Cow will fill it. we fh When boiled and cold, put milk and Sack to Eggs, | STC » . Unite them firmly like the triple league, ' «And on the fire let them together dwell Till Miss sing twice — you must not kiss and tell—~ Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, And fall on fiercely like a starved Dragoon.” To bottle Beer. — (No. 468.) , When the briskness and liveliness of Malt liquors i in the cask fail, and they become dead and vapid, which they generally do soon after they are tilted, let them be Bottled. Be careful to use clean and dried bottles ; leave then unstopped for twelve hours, and then cork them as closely as possible with good and sound new Corks ; put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 375 bottle : the Beer will be ripe, 2. e. fine and sparkling, © in about four or five weeks; if the weather is cold, to put rt up, the day before at ts to be drank, place it in a room where there is a Fire. Remember, there is a sediment, &c. at the bottom of the Bottles, which you must carefully avoid dis- turbing,—so pour it off at once, leaving a wineglassful at the bottom. teri f Beer becomes Hard or. Stale, a few grains of Carbonate of Potash, added to it at the time 1¢ ts drank, will correct it, and make Draught Beer as brisk as Bottled Ale. Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy.— (No. 469.) | Bruise the finest ripe Raspberries with the back of a spoon, strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar, allowing a Pound of fine powdered Loaf Sugar to Seach Quart of juice; stir well together, and cover it down; let it stand for three days, stirring it up each day; pour off the clear, and put two quarts of Sherry, or one of Cogniac Brandy, to each quart of juice: bottle it off: it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight. N.B. Or make it with the Jelly (No. 479.) . Liqueurs. —(No, 471.) We have very little to tell from our own experience, and refer our Reader to ‘‘ NouvELLE CHIMIE DU Gout Et DE L’Onvorat, ou ldArt du Distillateur, du Confiseur, et du Parfumeur, mis a la portée de tout le Monde, — Paris, 2 tom. 8vo. 1819 ; — and to Jarrin’s Itahan Confectioner, Lond. 1820. Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the information where those things may be procured é ready made, of the best quality. Lt 1s in vain, to attempt to imitate the. best Fonper LIQUEURS, unless we can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made. Jounson and Co., Foreign Liqueur and Brandy Merchants to his Majesty and the Royal Family, No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous for importing Branpy of the best quality, and selling it in a genuine state, and 71 varieties of Forrtagn LiquEurs, &c., 876 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. and that: agreeable and i ria bg aqua: ‘f; sed SENCE OF PUNCH.” | t duod His “ Witre Curacoa” is a Bonne decks fir’ an Emperor. | Curagou. (No. 47 4.50. Put five ounces of thin cut Seville cmabe Pedl, that has been dried and pounded, into @ quart of the finest and cleanest Rectified Spirit, (sold by Rickanps, Distiller, ‘Picéadilly,) — after it has been infused a fortnight, strain it, and add a quart of — and filter ; see the following Recetpt :— To make a Quart of Curagoa. . Ay a pint of the cleanest and strongest. Rect vee Spirit, {sold by Ricxarps, Piccadilly,) add two drachms and a half of the Sweet Oil of Orange Peel, (sold by Stewart, No. 11, Old Broad Street, near the Bank,) shake it up, — dissolve a pound of wood Lump Sugar in a pint of cold water, make this into a Clarified Syrup (No. 475), which add to the Spirit, shake it up, and let it stand till the following day —then line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and that with filtering paper, and filter it two or three times till it is quite bright ;— or dissolve a drachm and a half of Carbonate of Potash in about a quarter pint of the Liqueur by rubbing it together in a mortar — adding it to the Liqueur, and shaking it - well up — then incorporate a like quantity of pounded Alum in another quarter pint of the Liqueur — and return it to the Liqueur, shake it well up—and in a little time it will become fine. This Liqueur is an admirable cordial—and a teaspoonful in a Tumbler of water, is a very refreshing Summer drink, and a great improvement to PuNCH. - Obs.—We do not offer this Receipt as a Rival to - Mr. Jounson’s Curacoa —it is only proposed as an humble substitute for that incomparable Liqueur. Clarified Syrup.—(No. 475.) _ Piatt Break into bits two Pounds (avoirdupois) of double refined Lump Sugar, and put it into a clean stewpan (that is well tinned), with a Pint of cold spring water ; GRAVIES AND SAUCES. SUE: when the Sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire: beat about half the white of an Egg, put it to the Sugar before it gets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it, and when it boils take off the scum; keep it boiling till no scum rises and it is perfectly clear, then run it through a clean napkin: put it into a close stopped bottle; it will keep for months, and is an Elegant Article on the sideboard for Sweetening. Obs. —The proportion of Sugar ordered in the above Syrup, is a quarter pound more than that directed in the Pharmacopeeia of the London College of Physicians. The quantity of Sugar must be as much as the liquor is capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will ferment, and quickly spoil; if kept in a temperate degree of heat, the above proportion of Sugar may be considered the basis of all Syrups. Capillaire. —(No. 476.) To a pint of Clarified Syrup add a wineglass of Curacgoa (No. 474),—or dissolve a drachm of Oil of Neroli in two ounces of Rectified Spirit, and add a few drops of it to Clarified Syrup. “i LemonabE in a Minute.— (No. 477.) Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of Citric, i. e. crystallized Lemon Acid*, with a few drops of quintessence of Lemon Peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint of Clarified Syrup (No. 475), or Capillaire. For Superlative Syrup of ‘Lemons, see (No. 371.) Obs.— The proportion of Acid to the Syrup, was that selected (from several specimens) by the Com- MITTEE OF TastTE. We advise those who are dis- posed to verify our Receipt, to mix only three-quarters * Tartaric is only half the price of Citric Acid — but is very inferior in flavour, &c,; and those who prepare this Syrup for Home Consumption, will always use the Citric. 378 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. of a pint of Syrup first, and add the other quarter if they find it too Acid. If you have none of (No. 408), flavour your ‘Syttip with thin cut Lemon Peel, or use Syrup of Lemon’ weer (No..393.) A tablespoonful of this in a pint of water will imme- diately produce a very agreeable Sherbet; the addition of Rum and Brandy will convert this into PUNCH DIRECTLY. “_ (No. 478.) Shrub, or Essence of Punch. —(No. 47 9. ae Brandy or Rum, flavoured with (No. 477), will give you very good Extempore “Essence or Puncn.” ‘Obs. — The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira makes ‘“* Puncn Royat;” if, instead of wine, the above quantity of water be added, it will make “ Punch for Chambermaids,” according to Satmon’s Cookery, 8vo. London, 1710: see page 405; and (No. pat dwt in Norr’s Cook’s Dictionary, 8vo. 1724, Currant, Raspberry, SC. Jelly. — (No. 479.°) ih When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day ; — as soon as it is nicely picked, put it into a Jar, and cover it down very close. Set the Jar in a Saucepan about three parts filled with cold water; put it on a gentle fire, and let it ‘simmer for about half.an hour. Take the pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the Jar into a Jelly- Bag; pass the juice through a second time ;—(do not squeeze the bag ) To each Pint of juice add a Pound ‘and a half of good Lump Sugar pounded; when it is dissolved, put it into a preserving pan, set it on the fire, and boil gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time, (about twenty minutes.) 7. ¢. till no more scum rises, — it will be then perfectly clear and fine; pour it while warm into pots,—and when cold, cover them with paper wetted in Brandy. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 379 Half a pint of this Jelly, dissolved in a pint of Brandy or Vinegar, will give you excellent Currant or Rasp- berry Vinegar. ‘To make Sweet Sauce, (No. 346. ye '~ Obs.—Jellies from other fruits may be made in’ the same way,—and cannot be preserved in perfection without plenty of good Sugar. ~The best way is the cheapest,—Jellies made with too ‘small a proportion of Sugar—require boiling so long—there is much more waste of juice and flavour by,evaporation than the due quantity of Sugar costs; and they neither look nor taste half so delicate, as when made with a proper proportion of Sugar and moderate boiling. ~ Mock Arrack. — (No. 480.) _ Dissolve two scruples of flowers of Benjamin in’a quart of good Rum, and it will immediately impart to it the inviting fragrance of ** VauxHALL NEcTAR.” Calves’-feet. Jelly: — (No. 481.) Take four Calves’ Feet, (not those which are sold at Tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all'the Gelatine is extracted,— but buy them at the Butcher’s ;) slit them in two, alee away the Fat from between the claws, wash them well in lukewarm water, then put them in a large stewpan, and cover them with water ; when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be re- duced to about two quarts, then strain it through a sieve, and skim all the oily substance which is on the surface of the liquor. If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the Calves’ feet the day before you make the Jelly, as when the liquor is cold, the oily part being at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paper applied to it, you may remove every particle of the oily substance, without wasting any of the Liquor. Put the Liquor in a stewpan to melt, with a pound of Lump Sugar, the peel of two Lemons, the juice 380 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. of six, six whites of Eggs and shells beat together, and a bottle of Sherry or Madeira; wisk the whole together until it is on the boil, then put it by the side of the stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour; strain it through a Jelly-bag ; what is strained first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright and as clear as rock water; then put the Jelly in moulds, to be cold and firm; if the weather is too warm, it requires some ice. Obs. — When it is required to be very stiff, half an ounce of Isinglass may be added when the Wine is ut in. . It may be flavoured by the juice of various Fruits, &c. and Spices, &c. and coloured with Saffron, — Cochineal, — Red Beet Juice, —Spinage Juice, — Claret, &c.-— and it is sometimes made with Cherry Brandy, or Noyeau Rouge,— or Curacoa (No. 474), or Essence of Punch (No. 479), instead of Wine. N.B. Ten Suanx Bones or Mutton, which may be bought for 24d., will give as much Jelly as a Calf’s foot, which costs a Shilling. — See the 4th and following lines in page 287 oft this work. THE COOK’S ORACLE. MADE DISHES, &c. Recempts for Economical Mave Disues, written for the Coox’s ORACLE — by an accomplished ENGLISH Lapy.— (No. 483.) Tuese Experiments have arisen from my aversion to Cold Meat, and my preference of what are termed Frencu Disues; with which (by a certain manage- ment) I think I can furnish my table at far less ex- pense—than is generally incurred in getting up a Plain Dinner. Gravy or Soup Mears I never buy,—and yet am seldom without a good provision of what is technically denominated Stock. . When, as it frequently happens, we have Ham dressed, if the Joint be above the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared in the following manner :—First, ensure that it has been properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a nicety,— then, put it into an Earthen Vessel as near its own size as possible, with just as much water as will cover it, to which add four Onions, a clove of Garlick, half a dozen Shallots, a Bay leaf, a bunch of Sweet herbs, half a dozen Cloves, a few Peppercorns and Allspice : this should be well closed, and kept szmmering about three hours. It is then served with Raspings or with Glazing, the rind having first been taken off neatly.— The liquor is strained, and kept till Poultry of any sort, or Meat, is boiled, when the liquor in which they have been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down 382 MADE DISHES, &c. fast till reduced to about three pints: when cold, it will be a highly flavoured, well coloured Jelly*, and ready for Sauce for all kinds of Ragoits and Hashes, &ec. &c. A FILLeT oF Veat, I divide into Three Parts; the Meat, before it is skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, and will pull asunder as you would quarter an Orange ;—the Largest Piece should be stuffed with (No. 374, or 375), and rolled up, com- pactly skewered, &c. and makes a very pretty small Fillet — the Square flat Piece will either cut into Cutlets (No..90, or 521), or slice for a Pie — and the Thick Piece must be well larded and dressed as a Fricandeau —which I do in the following manner:—Put the larded Veal into a stewpan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as will cover it; when it has simmered till delicately white, and so tender as to be cut with a Spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart,—and it will be ready to serve up either with Sorrel, Tomata, Mushrooms (No. 305, or 439), or some of the. above- mentioned. Stock — the Fricandeau being previously coloured with Glazing — if with Mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in Salt and Vinegar and water, which gives them flavour, and keeps them good colour. The Sriruoin or Beer I likewise. divide into Three Parts ; 1 first have it nicely boned. The Under part, or Fillet, as the French oak, it, will dress (when cut into slices) excellently, either as plain Steaks (No, 94), Curry (No. 497); or, it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts of water (a Bay leaf, two Onions, their skins roasted brown, four Cloves, Allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it Shani be taken out, drained quite dry, and put away —it is then ready to be used at any time in the following manner : — Season and dredge it well, then put. it into a stew- * This may be.still longer. preserved— by the process directed in (No. 252) - MADE DISHES, &c. 383 pan. in’ which a piece of Butter hasbeen previously fried to a fine froth; when the Meat is: sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the pan half a dozen middle-sized Onions to do a fine Gold Colour; that accomplished, (during which the Dredger should be in constant use,) add half a pint of Stock, and a tea- . spoonful of Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396), and let the Onions stew gently till nearly tender; the Beef should then be returned to the stewpan, and the whole suffered to simmer till the meat is warm through: care must be taken that the Onions do not break, and they should be served round the Beef with as much Sauce as will look graceful in the dish, The Fillet is likewise very good without éhe fried Onions ;—in that case, you should chop and mix up together, a Shallot, some Parsley, a few Capers and the Yolk of a hard Ege, _and strew them lightly over the surface of the Beef. The Fat End of the Sirloin and Bones should be put to simmer in the liquor, in which the Fillet was first stewed, and done till the Beef looks loose; it should then be put away into a deep vessel, and the Soup strained over it, which cooling with the Fat upon the top (thereby excluding the air), will keep as long as may be required ;— when the Soup is to be used, the fat must be cleared from it,—a Carrot, Parsnip, a head of Celery, a Leek, and three Turnips, cleaned and scalded, should be added to it, and the whole suffered to simmer gently till the vegetables are quite done, when they must be strained from the liquor, and the Soup served up with large square thick pieces of toasted bread. Those who like a Plain Bouilli warm the Beef in the Soup, and serve it up with the Turnips and Carrots which had been strained before from the Soup. A White Cabbage quartered, is no bad addition to the Garnish of the Bouilli, or to the flavour of the Soup. If it is a Dressed Bouillt, sliced. Carrots. and Button ry.) 384 MADE DISHES, &c. Onions should be stewed in’ thickened Stock, and poured over the Meat. A Neck of Mutton, boned, sprinkled with dried Save, powdered fine, or (No. 378) seasoned and rolled and roasted, is very good. The Bones and Scrag make excellent Gravy stewed down, and if done very gently, the Meat is not bad eating. The same herbs should’ be put to it, as to other Stocks, with the addition of a Carrot : this will make very good Mutton Broth. In short, wherever there are Bones or Trimmings to be got out of any Meat that is dressed in my Kitchen, they are made to contribute towards ie or Gravy, or (No. 252.) Instead of roasting a HARE (which at best is but dry food), stew it, if Young, Plain, — if an Old one, Lard it. The Shoulders and Legs should be taken off, and the Back cut into three pieces; these, with a Bay leaf, half a dozen Shallots, one Onion pierced with four Cloves, should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four hours in a deep dish. In the mean time, the Head, Neck, Ribs, Liver, Heart, &c. &c. should be browned in frothed Butter well seasoned — add half a pound of lean Bacon cut into small pieces, a large bunch of Herbs, a Carrot, and a few Allspice — simmer these in a quart of water till it be reduced to about half the quantity, when it should be strained, and those parts of the Hare which have been infused in the vinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those who like Onions may brown half a dozen, stew them in a part of the Gravy, and dish them round the Hare. When it comes from the table, supposing some to be left, the Meat should be taken from the Bones, and with a few Forcemeat balls, the remains of the Gravy, and about a quarter of a pint of Red Wine and a pro- portionable quantity of water, it will make a very pretty i] MADE DISHES, &c. 385 Soup —to those who have no objection to Catsup, (No. 439), a spoonful in. the original Gravy is an im- provement, as indeed it is in every made Dish where the Mushroom itself is not at command. Every Ragotit, in my opinion, should be dressed the day before it is wanted, that any [at which has escaped ba skimming spoon, may with ease be ue ap off when cold. Caur’s Heav.—Take the half of one, with the skin on, — put it into a large stewpan with as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of Ham, and the usual accompaniments of Onions, Herbs, &c. &c. and let it simmer till the flesh may. be separated from the bone with a Spoon — do so, and while still hot cut it into as large a sized square as the piece will admit of; —the trimmings and half the liquor put by in a tureen; to the remaining half add a gill of White Wine, and reduce the whole of that by quick boiling till it is again half consumed, when it should be poured over the large square piece in an Earthen Vessel surrounded with Mushrooms, white Button Onions, small pieces of Pickled Pork (half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length), and the Tongue in slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up; some browned Force- meat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from the Table, the remains should be cut into small pieces and mixed up with the Trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine) properly thickened, will make avery good Mock Turtle Soup for a future occasion.” To Hash Mutton, &c.—(No. 484.) Cut the Meat into handsome slices, and trim off all the sinews, skin and gristle, &c.—put in nothing but what is to be eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; prepare your Sauce as receipt (No. 360), or (No. 451), or (No. 486), put in the Meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm ; — do not let 1¢ Boul, as that will make s 386 MADE DISHES, &c. the Meat tough and hard*, and it. will be as- Joan CROMWELL} has it, 3d cath, iit. Obs. -— Select for your Hash, those mae of the. joint that are least done. It is a mode of Cookery by no means suited to delicate stomachs, unless the Meat, &c, be considerably under-done the first time—a second dressing must spoil it. To warm Hasuest. — (No. 485.) Made Dishes,—Stews,— Ragouts,—Soups, &e. Put what you have left, into a deep hash dish, or tureen: when you want it, set this in a stewpan of boiling water ; let it stand till the contents are quite warm. To Hash Bur, §c.—(No. 486.) Put a pint and a half of Broth, — or Water, with an ounce of (No. 252), or a large tablespoonfal of Mushroom Catsup into a stewpan with the Gravy you have saved that was left from the Beef, and put in a quarter ounce of onion sliced very fine, and boil it about ten minutes ; put alarge tablespoonful of Flour into a basin, just wet * HASHES and Meats Brécend a second time, ghotid only simmer gently, till just warm through ; it is supposed they have been done very nearly, if not quite enough, already: select those parts of the joint that have been least done, In making a Hash from a‘ Leg of Mutton, do not destroy the “Mar- row-bone to “help the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no per- ceptible addition; but saw it in two, twist writing paper round the ends, and send it upona plate as a side dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley :—#f ét és a Roast leg, preserve the END BONE, and send it up between the marrow- bones. This is.a.very pretty Luncheon, or Supper dish. t+ See ‘‘ the Court and Kitchen of ELIZABETH, commonly called Joen Cromwell, 16mo. London, 1664, page 106. { The * Bain- Marie,” or WATER-BATH, see note to (No. 52()), is the best utensil to warm up made dishes, and things that have been already sufficiently dressed, as it neither consumes the sauce; nor hardens the meat:—if you have not a Water-Bath,.a Duteh Oven will sometimes supply the place of it. “ Pain-Marie” is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all your stewpans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil; the effect of this Bain-Marie is to keep every thing warm without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly the quality. When [ had the honour of serving a Nobleman who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using Bain-Marie, as a certain means of preserving the flavour of alt my dishes. If you keep your sauce or broth or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as:re- duces. This is the best way of warming Turtle, or Mock Turtle Soup, —as the thick part is always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, and keeps it always good.” — Upn’s Cookery, page 18. \ ee Nad ——e MADE DISHES, &c. 387 it with a little water, mix it well together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it a boil for five or ten minutes, rub it through a sieve, and itis ready to receive the Beef, &c., let it stand by the side of the fire, till the Meat is warm. | N.B. A teaspoonful of Parsley chopped as fine as possible, and put in five minutes before it is served up, _ 1s a great addition ;— others like haifa wineglass of Port wine, and a desertspoonful of Currant Jelly. See also (No. 360), which will show you every variety of manner of making and flavouring the most highly finished Hash Sauce, and (Nos. 484, 485, and 506.) Cold Meat Broiled, with Poached Eggs. —(No. 487.) The inside of a Sirloin of Beef is best for this dish, or a Leg of Mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thickness, and broil and brown them carefully and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven, give those slices most fire that are least done ;—lay them ina © dish before the fire to keep hot, while you poach the Eggs, as directed in (No. 546), and mashed Potatoes (No. 106.) | ~ Obs. — This makes a savoury Luncheon or Supper,— but is more relishing than nourishing, unless the Meat was under-done the first time it was dressed. No. 307 for Sauce, to which some add a few drops of Shallot wine or vinegar. See (No. 402), or (No. 439), or (No. 359), warmed,—or Grill Sauce (No. 355.) Mrs. Puruttps’s Irish Stew. —(No. 488.) Take five thick Mutton Chops or two pounds off the neck orloin; four pounds of Potatoes; peel them, and cut them in halves; six Onions, or half a pound of onions, peel and slice them also;—first put a layer of Potatoes at the bottom of your stewpan, then a couple of Chops and some of the Onions; then again potatoes, and so on till the pan is quite full,—a small spoonful ‘ of white pepper, and about one and a half of salt, and | s 2 388 | MADE DISHEs, &c. three gills of broth or gravy; cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let them stew two hours on a very,slow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish. The Cook will be the best judge when it is done, as a great deal depends on the fire you have. ee N.B. Great Care must be taken not to let it burn, and that it does not do too fast. 7 To make an Irish Stew, or HUNTER’s Pre. ' Take part of a Neck of Mutton, cut it into chops, season it well, put it into a stewpan, let it brase for half an hour, take two dozen of potatoes, boil them, mash them, and season them, butter your mould, and line it with the potatoes, put in the Mutton, bake it for half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole in the top and add some good gravy to it. _ | | N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison of the Leinster Hotel, Dublin. A good Scotch Haggies. — (No. 488.*) - Make the haggies-bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver very well, so as it will grate; dry the meal before the fire; mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half of the liver; mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these materials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal; spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed spices; take any of the scraps of beef that is left from mincing, and some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about’a choppin (2. e. a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggies meat into the bag, and that broath in it; then sew up the bag; but be sure to put out all the wind before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put it in a cloth. If it is a large haggies, it will take at least two hours - bailing. | MADE DISHES, &c. 389 'N.B. The above we copied verbatim from Mrs. Mactver, a celebrated Caledonian Professor of the Cu- linary art, who taught and published a book of Cookery at Edinburgh, A.D. 1787. Mincep Co.ttops. * This is a favourite Scotch dish, — few families are without it, — it keeps well, and is always ready to make an extra dish. “< Take Beef, and chop and mince it very small; to which add some salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butter into a fryingpan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add a little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up.”——The Hon. Joun CocHRANE'S Seaman’s Guide, 8vo. 1797. p. 42. Harrico* Mutton, @ la Moost-Ayz.—(No. 489.) Cut the best end of a Neck or Loin of Mutton that has been kept till tender, into Chops of equal thick- ness, one rib to each; (‘‘ les bons hommes de bouche de Paris” cut two chops to one bone, but it is more con- venient to help when there is only one, two at a time is too large a dose for John Bull,) trim off most of the Fat, and the lower end of the chine bone, and scrape it clean ; — flatten them with a cleaver, and lay them in a Stewpan, with an ounce of Butter and a large Onion; — set it over a smart fire: if your fire is not sharp, the chops will be done before they are coloured: the in- tention of frying them is merely to give them a browning. While the Chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of young button Onions in about three pints of water for about 15 or 20 minutes, set them by, — and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stewpan with the chops, and add as much boiling water as will * Probably a contraction of ‘* Haut Ragott.” 390 MADE DISHES, &e. cover them, remove the scum as it rises, and then put in six ounces of Carrots, and eight ounces of Turnips peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into balls about as big as a nutmeg, put in the Carrots twenty minutes before the Turnips, be careful they are not stewed tuo fast or too much, — so take out one of the Chops with a fish slice, and try it: when they are tender, which will be in about an hour anda half, then pass the gravy through @ sieve into a basin, skim off the fat, and set the meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling water over the button Onions to warm them, and then put them round the Dish, the last thing. THICKEN THE Gravy by putting an ounce of Butter into a Stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much Flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till it boils ; ; strain it through a fine sieve or tammis into a stewpan, and let it simmer gently while you dish up the Meat and Vegetables; lay the chops round a dish, put the Vegetables in the middle, aud pour the thickened gravy over. Some put in Capers, &c., minced Gherkins, &c. Obs.— Rump sTEAKS, VEAL CUTLETS, and Bzerr TAILS, make excellent dishes dressed in the like manner. Mutton Chops delicately Stewed, and good Mution Broth, (No. 490.) Put the Chops into a stewpan with cold water enough to cover them, and an Onion, — when it is coming toa boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow Fire till the Chops are tender, —if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an hour's very gentle simmering. Send up Turnips with them, (No. 130), they may be boiled with the chops, skim well, and then send all up ina deep dish, with the Broth they were stewed in. N.B. The Broth will make an Economist one, — aad the Meat another wholesome and comfortable meal. MADE DISHES, Ke. ogL Shoulder of Lamb Grilled. —(No. 491.) Boil it, — score itin checquers about an inch square, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, pepper and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and dried parsley, or sweet Herbs, or (No. 457 or 459), and Carbonado, 1 3 Eh Grill, z. e. Broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a nice light brown’ send up some gravy with it, or make a sauce for it of flour and water Well mixed together with an ounce of fresh but- ter, a tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, and the juice of halfa lemon. See also Grill Sauce (No. 355.) N. B. Breasts of Lamb are often done the same way, and with Mushroom or Mutton sauce (No. 307.) Lamb’s Fry. — (No. 492.) Fry it plain, or dip itin an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew some fine stale bread-crumbs over it; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389.) For sauce (No. 355), or (No. 356.) Suin oF Beer* Stewep.— (No. 493.) Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put it into a stewpan, and just cover it with cold water, — when it simmers, skim it clean, — then put in a bundle of Sweet Herbs, a large Onion, a head of Celery, a dozen berries of Black Pepper, and the same of Allspice : — stew very gently over a slow fire till the Meat is tender, — this will take from about Three hours and a half, to four and a half. Take three Carrots, peel and cut them into small squares ;—peel and cut ready in small squares a couple of Turnips, with a couple of dozen of small young round silver Button Onions; boil them till tender, the Turnips and Onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes, — * The proverb says, “ Of all the Fowls of the Air, commend me to the SHIN OF BEEF,—for there’s Marrow for the master, — Meat for the mistress, Gristles for the Servants, and Bones for the Dogs.” ° 392 MADE DISHES, &c. the Carrots will require about twice as long — drain them dry. When the Beef is quite tender take it out carefully: with a slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken a pmt and a half of the Gravy: to do this, mix three tablespoonsful of flour with a teacupful of the beef liquor; to make Soup of the rest of it, see (No. 238), stir this thoroughly together till it boils, scum off the Fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your vegetables in. to warm ;— Scason with pepper, salt, and a _wineglass of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), or Port wine, or both, and pour it over the Beef. Send up Wow Wow sauce (No. 328), i in a boat. © N.B. Or, instead of sending up the Beef whole, cut the meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it in the middle of the dish, with the Vegetables and Sauce (which, if you ivied with (No. 455), you may call “ Breer Curry,”) round it. A Lee or Mutton is excellent dressed the same way, — equal to ** le Gigot de sept heures,” so famous in the French kitchen. Obs. — This Srew has every claim to the attention of the Rational Epicure, being one of those in which ‘“ FruGauity, ‘ NourisHMENT,” ‘‘ and PaLat- ABLENESS,’ are most happily combined, — and you get: half a Gallon of excellent Brorn into the bargain. We advise the Mistress of the table, to call it ** Ra- cout Beer;”’ this will ensure it being eaten with una- nimous applause ; — the homely appellation of Shzn of aL, stewed, is enough to give your Genteel eater, a locked jaw. ‘¢ Remember, when the Judgment’s weak, the Projudice i is strong.” Our Modern Epicures resemble the Ancient*, who thought the dearest dish must be the most delicious: * The remotest parts of the world were visited, and Earth, Air, and Ocean ransacked to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Roman Supper. Suidas tells us, that Pityléus, who had a Hot tongue and a Cold stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former,—made a sheath for his Tongue, so that he could swallow his pottage scalding hot; yea, 1 myself MADE DISHES, &c. 393 ————-‘* And think all Wisdom lies ** In being impertinently nice.” Thus, they reckon Turtle and Punch, to be ‘‘ sheventy- foive per shent” more inviting than Mock Turtle and Good Mait Liquor, —however bad the former may be, and however good the latter; — we wish these folks _ could be made to understand, that the Soup for each, and all the accompaniments, are precisely the same ;— there is this only difference, the former is commonly made with a ‘‘ STARVED TURTLE,” (see Notes at the foot of page 277,) the latter with a“ FATTED CALF.” See (Nos. 247, 343, and 343%.) The scarcity of tolerably good cooxs, ceases to be surprising, when we reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who assume the character of Scientific GourmManpDs*, so extremely ignorant of ‘‘ the Affairs of the Mouth,’— they seem hardly to “ know a Sheep's head from a Carrot,” and their real pretensions to be profound Palaticians, are as moderate, as the wine merchant’s customer, whose sagacity in the selection of Liquors, was only so ex- quisite, that—he knew that Port wine was black, and that if he drank enough of it, it would make him drunk. Brisket of Beef Stewed. — (No. 494.) This is prepared in exactly the same way as “ Soup and Bouwill.” See (Nos. 5, 238, or 493.) Harricot of Beef. — (No. 495.) A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the * have known a Shropshire Gentleman of the like quality !!”’—See Dr. Morrer on Food, 4to. 1655. “ In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the Culinary arts are pushed to excess, — Luxury becomes false to itself, and things are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeabie to the appetite, but in pro- portion as they are rare, — out of season, — or costly.” — CADOGAN 07 Gout, 8vo. 1771, page 48. * Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent application, no smallshare of intellect, and the strictest sobriety aud punctuality,’”’ — Preface to Upn’s Cookery, page vi. s 4 394 MADE DISHES, &c. same Sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for harricot of mutton (No. 489), is a most excellent dish, of very moderate expense. Savoury Salt Beef Baked. — (No. 496.) ‘ The Tongue Side of a round of Beef is the best bit for this purpose, if it weighs fifteen pounds let it hang two or three days; then take three ounces of Saltpetre, one ounce of coarse Sugar, a quarter of an ounce of Black pepper, and same of Allspice, (some add a quarter of an ounce of Ginger, or (No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury Herbs (No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common Salt; incorporate these ingre~ ‘dients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take the bone out, and rub the Meat well with the above mixture, turning it and rubbing it every day for -afortnight. - . When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover the meat with about three pounds of mutton suet* shredded rather thick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flour crust - to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a moderate oven for about six hours, (or, just cover it with water, and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send it to table, cover the top of it with finely chopped Parsley.) If the Beef weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients. The Gravy you will find a strong Consommé excellent for Sauce or Soup, — or making Soy, cr Browning, see (No. 322), and being impregnated with salt, will keep several days. . This Joint should not be cut tall it is Cold, — and then with a sharp knife to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely to the eye. Obs. — This is a most excellent way of preparing * This Suet is not to be wasted, — when it comes from the oven, take out the Beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve, — let it stand till it is cold,—then clarify the fat as directed in (No. 83), and it will do for Frying, &c. MADE DISHES, &c. 395 and dressing Beef (No. 503), — and a savoury dish, for Sandwiches, &c.,—in moderate weather it will keep good for a fortnight after it is dressed, it is one of the most economical and elegant articles of ready dressed keeping provisions; deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently have Accidental Cus- tomers dropping in at Luncheon or Supper time — to whom, we recommend Morrison’s Provisions, No. 3, Charlotte Row, Mansion’'House. See Note at foot of page 277. Currigs. — (No. 497.) Cut Fowls or Rabbits into joints; put four ounces of Butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, put in the meat, and two Onions sliced; let them be over a smart fire till they are of a nice brown, then put in half a pint of Broth; let it simmer twenty minutes; put in a basin one tablespoonful of Curry Powder (No..455), one of Flour, and a teaspoonful of Salt; mix it smooth with a little cold water, put it in the stewpan, and shake it well about till it boils; let it simmer twenty minutes longer; just before it is dished up, squeeze in the juice of half a Lemon, add one good tablespoonful of melted Butter, and it is ready. Obs. — Curry is made also with Sweetbreads — Breast of Veal—Veal Cutlets — Lamb — Mutton or Pork Chops — Lobster — Turbot — Soles — Eels — Oysters, &c. prepared as above, or enveloped in (No. 348.) Obs.— This is a very savoury, nourishing, and eco- nomical dish, and a valuable variety at a moderate table, See Wow Wow Sauce, (No..328.) Stewed Rump Steak. — (No. 500.) For two pounds of Steaks, if you fear they will not eat tender, beat them well,— line the bottom of a three quart Stewpan with slices of fattish Ham, or Bacon, and on this lay the Steaks, (which should be nicely trimmed and shaped ;) just cover them with water, a 396 MADE DISHES, &c. dozen corns of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, the red part of a Carrot, a little bundle of Savory and Parsley, a large Onion with half a dozen Cloves stuck’ in it, and a head of Celery; cover them close, and let them simmer gently about an hour and a half, according to their thickness; if they are thin Steaks, an hour may be enough ; take care the Meat does not go to ha by doing too fast, or too much. When the Steaks are tender, take them up, gods them, and fry them, only just to brown them, in an ounce of Butter; make some thickening with an ounce of Butter and two tablespoonsful of Flour; put it into your sauce; stir it well together with a wooden spoon, adding thereto a tablespoonful of Claret, or Port wine, the same of Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), halfa tea- spoonful of Salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of eround Black Pepper: dish your Steaks, and strain your Sauce to them. Veat Curnets or Murron Crops may be done the same way, or as Veal Olives (No. 518.) Obs.—This is generally a second course dish, ana is usually made too rich,—and only fit to re-excite an Appetite already satiated. Our endeavour is to combine. agreeable savouriness with substantial nou- rishment ; those who wish to enrich our Receipt may easily add Mushrooms, — Wine, — Anchovy, — Cay- enne, — Bay leaves, &c. Another Way of Stewing Rump Steaks. The Rump Steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling, — but let them be all the same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others too much. Put an ounce of Butter into a stewpan, with two Onions; when the Butter is melted, lay in the Rump Steaks, let them stand over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn them, and let the other side of them fry five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of Button Onions; they will take from ‘half an hour to’an hour: MADE DISHES, &c. 397 put the liquor they were boiled in to the Steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth, or boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns of Black Pepper and a little Salt, and Jet them simmer very gently for about an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor (about a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce. Put two ounces of Butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much Flour as will make it into a stiff paste, add the liquor by degrees, let it boil up for fifteen minutes ; skim it, and strain it; serve up the Steaks with the Onions round the dish, and pour the Gravy over. Obs. — Rump Sreaxs are in best condition from Michaelmas to Lady-day. To ensure their being tender, give the Butcher three or four days’ notice of your wish Sor them. . Broiled Rump Steak with Onion Gravy. —(No. 501 she See also (No. 299.) Peel and slice two large Onions; put them into a quart stewpan with two tablespoonsful of water: cover the stewpan close, and set it on a slow fire till the water has boiled away, and the Onions have got a little browned,—then add half a pint of good Broth’, and boil the Onions till they are tender; strain the Broth from them, and chop them very fine; thicken, the Broth with Flour and Butter, and season it with Mushroom Catsup, and pepper and salt; put the Onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes, and pour it over a Broiled Rump Steak. If, instead of Broth, you use good Beef Gravy, it will be super- lative. ** Stewed Cucumber (No. 135), is another agreeable accompaniment to Rump Steaks. * If you have no Broth, — putin half a pint of water, thicken it as in the above receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, add to it a large spoonful of Mushroom Catsup, and, if you like, the same quantity of Port wine, 398 MADE DISHES, Xe. ALAMODE BEEF, or VEAL.—(No. 502.) In the hundred and eighty volumes on Cookery, (see page 24 of this work,) we patiently pioneered through, before we encountered the tremendous labour and ex- pense of proving the Receipts of our predecessors, — and set about recording these results of our own Expe- riments, — we could not find one Receipt that approx- imated to any thing like an accurate description of the way in which this excellent dish is actually dressed in the best Alamode Beef Shops ;—from whence, of course, it was impossible to obtain any information :—how- ever, after all, the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening the gravy of Beef that has been very slowly* stewed, and flavouring it with Bay leaves and Allspice. Take about eleven pounds of the Mouse-Buttock,—or Clod of Beef,—or a Blade Bone,—or the Sticking piece, or the like weight of the Breast of Veal; cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each; put two or three ounces of Beef drippings, and a couple of large Onions, into a large deep stewpan; as soon as it is quite hot, flour the Meat, put it into the stewpan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keep doing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it, then cover it with boiling water, (it will take about a gallon,) adding it by degrees and stirring it together; skim it when it boils, and then put in one drachm of ground Black Pepper, two of Allspice, and four Bay leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance over it, and let it stew very slowly for about three hours; when you find the meat sufh- * “© Tt must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in the furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, it may appear at table with a powerful claim te approbation.” — TABELLA CIBARIA, p. 47. * ee ee ee ee Ss eee MADE DIsHEs, &c. 399 ciently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready for table. It is customary to send up with it a nice Salad; see (No. 372.) * * To the above many Cooks add CHAMPIGNIONS; but as these are almost always decayed, and often of dele- tertous quality, they are better left out,—and indeed the Bay LEAVES deserve the same prohibition. Obs. — Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as cheap as the Eac-Brotnu of the Miser—who fed his Valet with the Water in which his Egg was boiled, — or as the ‘‘ Pottage a la Pierre, @ la Soldat*,” mentioned by Giles Rose in the 4th page of his dedi- cation of the “‘ PERFECT SCHOOL OF INSTRUCTION FOR THE OFFICERS OF THE MOUTH,” 18mo. London, 1682. “ Two Soldiers were minded to have a Soup; the first of them coming into a house, and asking for all things necessary for the making of one, was as soon told that he could have none of those things there, whereupon he went away;—the other, coming in with a Stone in his knapsack, asked only for a Pot to boil his stone in, that he might make a dish of broth of it for his Supper, which was quickly granted him; when the Stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small piece of Meat or Bacon, and a few Herbs and Roots, &c. just merely to give it a bit of a flavour; till, by little and little, he got all things requisite, and so made an excellent Pottage of his Stone.”—See Obs. to (No. 493.) Ss Onions, Pepper, Allspice, and Bay leaves.... 0 11 pounds of thick flank Beef ...ccseecscons ~ mo Ss Made Seven Quarts .escccessevcscee 7 i. e. Thirteen Pence per QUART. J * “6 C'est la Sowpe,’ says one of the best of proverbs, ‘ qui fait le Soldat ; © Tt is the Soup that makes the Soldier.” Excellent as our troops are in the field, there cannot be a more unquestionable fact, than their immense infe- riority to the French in the business of Cookery. ‘The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on the coals, by which means, the one and 400 MADE DISHES, &c. To Por Brer,—Veat, — Gang, orn Pouttry, &c. (No. 503.) EE _ Take three pounds of lean Gravy Beef, rub it well with an ounce of Saltpetre, and then a handful of common Salt; let it lay in Salt about three days, rubbing it well each day, then put it into an earthen pan, or stone jar that will just hold it, cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off, and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close with paste, and set it ina very slow oven for about four hours :—or prepare it as directed in (No. 496.) When it comes from the Oven, drain the gravy from it into a basin, pick out the gristles and the skins, mince it fine, moisten it with a little of the Gravy you poured from the meat, which is a very strong Consommé, (but rather salt,) and it will make excellent Pease Soup, or Browning, see (No. 322), pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with some fresh Butter*, till it is a fine paste, (to make Potted Meats smooth — there is nothing equal to plenty of Elbow grease)— seasoning it (by degrees as you are beating it) with a little Black Pepper and Allspice, — or Cloves pounded, —or Mace,—or grated Nutmeg. | Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover it a quarter of an inch thick with Clarified Butter; to prepare which, see receipt (No. 259.) Keep it in a dry place. . Obs.— You may mince a little Ham or Bacon, — or an Anchovy, —— Sweet or Savoury Herbs, — or a Shal- lot, and a little Tarragon, — Chervil, — or Burnet, &c., and pound them with the Meat, with a glass of Wine, or some Mustard, or Forcemeat (No. 376, or 378, and the better balf is lost,—and the other burnt to a cinder. Whereas six .French troopers fling’ their messes into the same pot, and extract a delicious Soup, ten times more nutritious than the simple Ko/z could ever he.”— Buackwoon’s Ldinburgh Magazine, vol. vii. p. 668- * The less Gravy or Butter, and the more beating, the better will be your Potted Beef, if you wish it to keep ; — if for immediate eating, you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat will pound easier, and look and taste more mellow, ; MADE DISHES, &c. 401 399*, &c.); if you wish to have it Devilish savoury, add Ragoat Powder (No. 457), Curry Powder (No. 455), or Test (No. 255), and moisten it with Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), or Essence of Anchovy (No. 433), or Tincture of Allspice (No. 413), or Essence of Turtle (No. 343.*) r, —(No. 503.*) It is a very ale and economical way of using the remains of Game, or Poultry, or a large joint of either roasted or boiled Beef, Veal, Ham, or Tongue, &c. to mince it, with some of the Fat, (or moisten it with a little Butter, or (No, 439), &C.). and beat it in a mortar with dia seasoning, &c., as in the former Receipt. . © When the Stomach requires Animal Food, and is deprived of the assistance of mastication, this kind of potted meat may be recommended as being re- storative, and easy of digestion.” Hunrer’s Culina, page 117. “< Mincing or Pounding Meat —saveth the grinding of the Teeth; and therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, especially in Age, —or to them that have weak teeth ; but butter is not proper for weak bodies, — and there- fore, moisten it in pounding with a little Claret wine, and a very little Cinnamon or Nutmeg.”— Lord Bacon ; Natural History, Century 1. 54. Obs. — Meat that has been boz/ed down for Gravies, &c. see (No. 185*), and (No. 252), (which has here- tofore been considered the perquisite of the Cat,) and is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a mortar with Salt, and a little ground Black Pepper and Allspice, as directed in the foregoing Receipt, and it will make as good Potted Beef, as Meat that has been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, which it must be, or it will not keep two days. Mem.— Meat that has not been previously salted, will not keep so long as that which has. 402. MADE DISHES, &ec. SANDWicHEs, —(No. 504.) - Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient Luncheon or Supper, — but have got out of Fashion — from the ‘bad manner in which they are commonly made; to cut the Bread neatly with a sharp knife, seems to be considered the only essential, and the lining is composed of any offal odds and ends —that cannot be sent to table in any other form. Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every bit of Skin, Gristle, &c.— and nothing introduced. but what you are absolutely certain will be acceptable to the Mouth. MATERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES, Cold Meat, or Poultry. German Sausage. Potted ditto (No. 503.) Cold Pork, ditto, (No. 87.) Ditto Lobster (No. 178), or Shrimp | Hard Eggs,. pounded with a little (No. 175.) Butter and Cheese. Ditto Cheese (No. 542.) Grated Flam, or Beef. Ditto, or grated Ham (No. 509.) Various Forcemeats, &c. Ditto, or grated Tongue. Curry Powder, Zest, Mustard, Pepper Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435.) and Salt, are added occasionally. Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef and Cabbage. (No. 505.) “ When ’midst the frying Pan, im accents savage, The Beef so surly, quarrels with the Cabbage.” MADE DISHES, &c. 403. For this, as for a Hash, select those parts of the joint that have been least done ;—it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted Beef, sprinkled with a little Pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit of ay in a frying-pan : af 2 zs fried too much it will be ard. Boil a Cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; take the Beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the Cabbage in it; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few mi- nutes; lay the Cabbage in the middle of a dish, and the Meat round it. For Sauce, see (No. 356), or (No. 328.) Hashed Beef and Roast Beef Bones Broiled.— (No. 506.) To hash Beef, see Receipt (Nos. 484, 5, and 6), (Nos. 360, 484, and 486.) The best part to hash is the Fillet or Inszde of the Sirloin, and the good housewife will always endeavour to preserve it entire for this purpose. See Obs. to (No. 19), and Mock Hare (No. 67.*) Roast Beef Bones furnish a very relishing Luncheon, or Supper, prepared in the following manner, with Poached Eggs (No. 546), or Fried Eggs (No. 545), or Mashed Potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments. Divide the Bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each ; — score them in squares, pour a little melted butter on them, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt; put them in a dish, set them in a Dutcn Oven for half or three quarters of an hour, according to the thickness of the meat, keep turning them till they are quite hot, and brown, or broil them on the gridiron. Brown them, but don’t burn them black. For Sauce, (Nos. 355, or 356.) Ox-Cheek Stewed. — (No. 507.) Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten, clean it, and put it into soft water just warm, let it lay three A04 MADE DISHES, &c. or four hours, then put it into cold water, and let it. soak all night ;—- next day wipe it clean, put it into a stewpan, and just cover it with water;—skim it well when it is coming to a boil, then put two whole Onions, stick two or three Cloves into each, three Turnips quar- tered, a couple of Carrots sliced, two Bay leaves, and twenty-four corns of Allspice, a head of Celery, and a bundle of Sweet herbs, pepper and salt: to these, those who are for a ‘* Haut-goit” may add Cayenne and Garlick, in such proportions as the palate that requires them may desire. Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, 7. e. about three hours; then take out the Cheek, divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help at table ; skim and strain the gravy; melt an ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan, stir into it as much flour as it will take up, | mix with it by degrees a pint and a half of the gravy, add to it a tablespoonful of Basil, Tarragon, or Elder vinegar, or the like quantity of Mushroom, or Walnut catsup, or Cavice, or Port wine, and give it a boil. Serve up in a soup, or ragout dish, or make it into Barley Broth (No. 204.) Obs.—This is a very economical, nourishing, and savoury meal. See Ox-CuEEk Sour (No. 239), and Calf’s-head Hashed (No. 520.) Ox-Tails Stewed. — (No. 508.) Divide them into joints, wash them, parboil them; set them on to stew in just water enough to cover them,—and dress them in the same manner as we have directed in (No. 531), Stewed Giblets, for which they are an excellent substitute. N.B. See Ox-Tail Soup (No. 240.) Potted Ham, or Tongue. — (No. 509.) Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled Ham, or Tongue, and pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh butter, (in the propor- MADE DISHES, &c; 405 tion of about two ounces to a pound,) till it is a fine paste, (some season it by degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice;) put it close down in pots for that - purpose, and cover it with Clarified Butter (No. 259), a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand one night ina cool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. See Obs. on (No. 503.) Hashed Veal. — (No. 511.) Prepare it as directed in (No. 484); and to make Sauce to warm Veal, see (No. 361.) Hashed or Minced Veal. — (No. 511.*) To make a Hasn*, cut the Meat into slices ;—to prepare MINCED VEAL, mince it as fine as possible, (do not chop it,) put it into a stewpan with a few spoonsful of Veal or Mutton Broth, or make some with the Bones and Trimmings, as ordered for Veal Cutlets, see (No. 90), or (No. 361), a little Lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk, or cream; thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a tablespoonful of Lemon pickle, or Basil wine (No. 397), &c. or a pinch of Curry powder. *.* If you have no Cream, beat up the yolks of a couple of Eggs with a little Milk: line the dish, and garnish with sippets of lightly toasted bread. Obs. — Minced Veal makes a very pretty dish, put into scollop shells and bread-crumbed over, and sprinkled with a little butter, and browned in a Dutch Oven, or a cheese toaster. To make an excellent Rugott of Cold Veal.—(No. 512.) Either a Neck, — Loin, — or Fillet of Veal, will fur- nish this excellent Ragotit, with a very little expense or trouble. Cut the Veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter or clean dripping into a fryingpan; as soon * See Receipt to Hash Mutton (Nos. 360 and 361), and (No. 484.) 406 MADE DIsHEsS, &c, as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown; take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, make some as directed in the note to (No. 517), or put a pint of boiling water‘into the fryingpan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin while you make some thickening in the following manner :— Put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frymgpan; let them simmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incor- porated); season it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wineglass of mushroom catsup, or wine; strain it through a tammis to the meat; and stew very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready boiled Bacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm with the meat, or (Nos. 526, or 527.) Veal Cutlets, see (No. 90), &c. Breast of Veal Stewed. —(No. 515.) A Breast of Veal, stewed till quite tender, and smothered with Onion “sauce, is an excellent dish, or in the gravy ordered in the Note to (No. 517.) Breast of Veal Ragott. —(No. 517.) Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half, lengthways; divide it into pieces, about four inches long, by two inches wide, 2. e. in handsome pieces, not too large to help at once:—put about two ounces of Butter into a fryingpan, and fry the Veal till it is a light. brown*, then put it into a stewpan with veal * Some Cooks make the gravy, &c. in the following manner: — Slice a large Onion, fry it brown, drain all fat from it, and put it into a Lewben with a bunch of Sweet Herbs, a couple of dozen berries of Allspice, same of ‘Black Pepper, three blades of Mace, and a pint and a half of water; cover down close, and boil gently for half an hour; then strain it through a sieve over the Veal, and let it simmer gently for about three hours: about half an hour. before it is. done, mix two tablespoonsful of flour in a teacupful of cold water, mix some of the gravy with it, and then pour it into the stewpan. N.B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added, when the Veal is put in, ie fe”, ' ie ee —e——— Oe MADE DISHES, Xc. 407 broth,—or as much boiling water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or lemon thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades of pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll of lemon peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a teaspoonful of salt; cover it close, and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender, 2. e. for about an hour and a half,—-if it is very thick, two hours; then strain off as much (about a quart) of the gravy, as you think you will want, into a basin; set the stewpan, with the meat, &c. in it, by the fire to keep hot. To thicken the Gravy you have taken out, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take, add the gravy by degrees, season it with salt, let it boil ten minutes, skim it well, and season it with two table- spoonsful of white wine, one of mushroom catsup, and same of lemon juice; give ita boil up, and it is ready : now put the Veal into a ragout dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. Ores By keeping the Meat whole, you will better preserve the succulence of it. Put the Veal into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and two whole onions, (such as weigh about two ounces each,) put it on the fire, and fry it about five minutes, then cover it with boiling water; when it boils, skim it, then put in two small blades of mace, a dozen berries of allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the gravy as you think you will want into a basin, put the stewpan by the fire to keep hot. To thicken it, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take, add the gravy by degrees, season it with salt, and when it boils, it is Fh 408 MADE DISHES, &é. ready. Put the Veal on a dish, and strain, the: ‘pravy through a fine sieve over it. Obs. — Forcemeat Balls, see (No. 375), &e. ‘Truffles, Morells, Mushrooms, and Curry powder, &c. are some- times added, and Rashers of Bacon or Ham (Nos. 526 and 527), or Fried Pork Sausages (No. 83.) Bi ~. N.B. These are nice dishes in the Pease season. Scotch Coilops. —(No. 51 ‘: *) The Veal must be cut the same as for Cutlets, in pieces about as big as a crown-piece; flour them well, and fry them of light brown in fresh butter; lay them in a stewpan, dredge them over with flour, and then put in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal; pour this in by degrees, shaking the stewpan, and set it on the fire; when it comes to a boil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour; lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. | N. B. Lemon Juice — and Peel,— Wine, — Catsup, &c., are sometimes added; add Curry Powper, and you have Curry CoLuops. Veal Olives. — (No. 518.) Cut half a dozen slices off a Fillet of Veal, half an inch thick, and as long and square as you can; flat them with a chopper, and rub them over with an egg that has been beat ona plate; cut some fat bacon as thin as possible, the same size as the veal, lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of the egg: make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt (No. 375), and spread it very thin over the bacon; roll up the olives tight, rub them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs: put them on a lark spit, and roast them at a brisk fire; they will take three quarters of an hour. MADE DISHES, &c. 409 Rump STEAKS are sometimes dressed this way. Mushroom Sauce, brown, (Nos. 305, or 306,) or Beef, Gravy, (No. 329.) Vide chapter on Sauces, &c. Cold Calf’s Head, Hashed. —(No. 519.) ‘See: Obs. to boiled Calf’s head (No. 10.) Calf’ s Head Hashed, or Ragotit.— (No. 520.) See (No. 247,) Wash a Calf’s head, and boil it, see (No. 10);. boil one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done when put into ‘the hash to warm, — the other. quite tender: from this half take out. the bones: score it superficially, beat up.an egg, put it over the head with a paste-brush, and strew over it a little grated Bread and Lemon Peel, and Thyme and Parsley, chopped very fine, or in ‘powder, then Bread-crumbs, and put it in the Dutch oven to brown. Cut the other half head into handsome slices, and put it into a)stewpan with a quart of Gravy (No. 329), or Turtle Sauce (No. 343), with Forcemeat balls. (Nos. 376, 380), Egg-balls, a wineglass of white Wine, and some Catsup, &c.; put in the meat, let it warm up together, and skim off the fat. Peel the Tongue, and send it up with Brains round it as a side dish, as directed in (No. 10), or beat them up in a basin with spoonful of flour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and a few leaves of very finely minced sage; rub them. well together in a mortar with pepper, salt,.and.a scrape of nutmeg: fry them (in little cakes),a, very light brown; dish up the hash, with the half head; you, browned in the middle, and garnish with crisp or curled rashers of Bacon, fried Bread Sippets (No. 319), (Nos. 526, and 527), and the Brain Cakes. © = N.B, Hf you serve the Tongue and Brains as a side dish; (instead of garnishing the Ragotit with rashers of bacon,) send up.a piece of Bacon as a companion for it. ii | ny ie 410 MADE DISHES, &c. Veal Cutlets Broiled plain, or Full-dressed. (No. 521.) | Divide the best end of a neck of Veal into cutlets, one rib to each, — broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs;— mince a little parsley, and a very little shallot, as small as possible, put it into a clean stewpan with two ounces of butter, and fry it for a minute, — then put on a plate the yolks of a couple of Eggs, mix the herbs, &c. with it, and season it with pepper and salt:—dip the Cutlets into this mixture, and then into the Bread;—lay them on a Gridiron over a clear slow fire till they are nicely browned on both sides, — they will take about an hour: send up with them a few slices of Ham or Bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven. See (Nos. 526 and 527), and half a pint of (No. 343), or (No. 356.) Knuckle of Veal, to Ragott. (No. 522.) Cut a knuckle of Veal into slices about half an inch thick ; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the trimmings into a stewpan, with the — bone broke in several places; an onion sliced, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades of bruised Mace: pour in warm water enough to cover them about an inch: cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours: strain it, and then thicken it with flour and butter; put in a spoonful of catsup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil up, and strain into a clean stewpan: put in the meat, make it hot, and serve up. Obs. —If Celery is not to be had, use a Carrot instead, or flavour it with Celery Seed, or (No. 409.) Knuckle of Veal Stewed with Rice. — (No. 523.) As boiled knuckle of Veal cold is not a very fa- vourite relish with the generality, cut off some Steaks from it, which you may dress as in the foregoing receipt, or (No. 521), and leave the Knuckle no larger ; { } MADE DISHES, &c. 411. than will be eaten the day it is dressed. Break the shank bone, wash it clean, and put it in a large stew- pan with two quarts of water, an Onion, two blades of Mace, and a teaspoonful of Salt: set it on a quick fire; when it boils, take off all the scum. Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of Rice, put it into the stewpan with the meat, and let it stew very gently for about two hours: put the Meat, &. in a deep dish, and the Rice round it. Send up Bacon with it, Parsnips, or Greens, and finely minced Parsley and Butter (No. 261.) Mr. oe ps s Receipt to Stew a Knuckle of Veal. (No. 524.) Take a knuckle of Veal You may buy it, or steal; In a few pieces cut it, In a stewingpan put it; Salt, pepper, and mace, Must season this knuckle; Then, what’s joined to a place * With other herbs muckle; That which kill’d King Will + And what never stands still{; Some sprigs of that bed || Where children are bred, Which much you will mend, if Both spinage and endive And lettuce and beet, With marygold meet. Put no water at all, For it maketh things small, Which, lest it should happen, A close cover clap on: Put this pot of Wood’s metal § In a boiling hot kettle ; And there let it be, (Mark the doctrine I teach,) About, let me see, Thrice as long as you preach {, So skimming the fat off, Say grace with your hat off, O! then with what rapture Will it fill Dean and Chapter ! * Vulgo, salary. + Supposed sorred. { This is, by Dr. BENTLEY, thought to be time, or thyme. || Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYNKE. 2 Of this composition, see the works of the copper farthing dean. Which we suppose a be near four hours. T2 mi 412 MADE DISHES, Xe. Slices of Ham or Bacon.— (No. 526.) ~ Ham, or Bacon, may be fried, or BROILED on a eridiron over a clear fire, — or TOASTED with a fork ;— take care to slice it of the same thickness in every art. ts F If you wish it CURLED, cut it in slices about two inches long, (if longer, the outside will be done too much, before the inside is done enough;) roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer through it; put it in a Cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, turning it as it gets crisp. j | This is considered the handsomest way of dressing Bacon ;—but we like it best uncurled, — because it is crisper, and more equally done. Obs. — Slices of Ham or Bacon should not be more than half a quarter of an inch thick, and will eat much more mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth, before they are broiled, &c. Relishing Rashers of Bacon. —(No. 527.) If you have any Cold Bacon, you may make a very nice dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; grate some crust of bread, as directed for Ham, see (No. 14), and powder them well with it on both sides; lay the rashers in a Cheese-toaster,— they will be browned on one side in about three minutes ;—turn them, and do the other, Obs. — These are a delicious accompaniment to poached, or fried Eggs:--the Bacon having been boiled * first, is extremely tender and mellow.— They are an excellent garnish round Veal Cutlets, or Sweet- breads, or Calf’s-head Hash, or Green Pease, or Beans, &c. - wy . '@ To boil Bacon, see (No. 13.) iY % a ee ee MADE DISHES, &c. 413 Hashed Venison. —(No. 528.) > If you have enough of its own Gravy left, it is preferable to any to warm it up in:— if not, take some of the Mutton Gravy (No. 347), or the bones and trimmings of the joint, (after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can, to make the hash;) put these into some water, and stew them gently for an hour: then put some butter into a stewpan; when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, and. stir it well together; add to it, by degrees, the Gravy you have been making of the trimmings, and some Red Currant Jelly, give it a boil up, skim it, strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the Venison : put it in, and let it just get warm :—7f you let it boil, zt will make‘the Meat hard. - Hashed Hare. — (No. 529.) Cut up the Hare into pieces, fit to help at table, and divide the joints of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a pint of water, (there should be a pint of liquor,) and a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly, into a clean stewpan, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and pour it back into the stewpan; now flour the Hare, put it into the gravy, and let it simmer very gently till the Hare is warm (about twenty minutes), cut the Stuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about five minutes before you serve it; divide ‘the head, and lay one half on each side the dish. — For Hare Soup, see (No. 241), Mock Hare (No. 66.*) Jugged Hare. — (No. 529.*) Wash it very nicely, cut it up into pieces proper to help at table, and put them into a Jugging Pot, (these are made by Luoyn, No. 178, Strand,) or into a Stone Pics coh bin Ge. 414 ADE DISHES, &c, Jar*, just sufficiently large to well hold it; put in some Sweet Herbs, a roll or two of rind of a Lemon, or a Seville Orange, and a fine large Onion with five cloves stuck in it, and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the Hare, a quarter pint of water; if you are for a Ragotit, a quarter pint of Claret, or Port wine, and the juice of a Seville Orange, or Lemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam can escape; put a little hay in the bottom of a saucepan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the top of the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare, (take care it is not over-done, which is the general fault in all made dishes, especially this,) keeping it boiling all the time, and fill up the pot as, it boils away. When quite tender, strain off the gravy, clear it from fat, thicken it with flour, and give it a boil up:—lay the Hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy to it. oe 2 _ Obs.—You may make a Pudding, the same as for Roast Hare, see (No. 379), and boil it in a cloth; and when you dish up your Hare, cut it in slices, or make Forcemeat Balls of it, for garnish. | For Sauce, (No. 346.) Or, A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of proceeding, is the following :— : _ Prepare the Hare the same as for jugging, put it into a stewpan with a few Sweet Herbs, half a dozen Cloves, the same of Allspice and Black. Pepper, two -* Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being immediately ‘exposed to if, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally employed: it becomes delicately tender, without being overdone, and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved, This, in chemical tech- nicals, is called Balneum Maris, a WaTER BaTH; in culinary, Bain Marie; which A. CHAPPELLE, in his ‘* Modern Cook,” 8vo. page 25, London, 1744, translates, ‘‘ Mary’s Bath.” See Note to (No. 485.) Mary SMITH, in her “ Complete Housekeeper,” 1772, 8vo. pages 105 and 247, translates ‘‘ Sawce Robert,” RoE-BoaT SaucE,—an “ Omelette,” a HAMLET, —and gives you a receipt how to make “ Sowpe ad la Ratn ” MADE DISHES, & 415 large Onions, and a roll of Lemon-peel; cover it with water; when it boils, scum it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours), then take it up with a slice, set it by the fire to keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of ‘butter, and some flour, rub together, put it in the gravy, stir it well, and let it boil about ten minutes, strain it through a sieve over the Hare, and it is ready. Dressed Ducks, or Geese Hashed. —(No. 530.) Cut an Onion into small dice; put it into a stewpan with a bit of Butter; fry it, but do not let it get any colour: put as much boiling water into the stewpan as will make sauce for the hash; thicken it with a little flour, cut up the duck, and put it into the sauce to warm; do not let it boil; season it with pepper and salt, and catsup. N.B. The Leas or Gezst, &c. broiled, and laid on a bed of Apple Sauce, are sent up for Luncheon or Supper. Or, _ Divide the Duck into joints; lay it by ready: put the trimmings and stuffing into a stewpan with a pint and a half of broth or water, let it boil half an hour, and then rub it through a sieve; —put half an ounce of butter into a stewpan; as it melts, mix a table- spoonful of flour with it, stir it over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it by degrees; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain through a sieve into a stewpan; put in the Duck, and let it stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes, if the Duck is rather under-roasted ; if there is any fat, skim it of line the dish you serve it up in with sippets of brea AS either fried or toasted. Racouts or Pouttry, Game, Picrons, Ravsirts, &c. — (No. 530.*) Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into 416 DISHES, &Xc. joints and pieces proper to help at table, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of broth, — or as much water, —~ with any trimmings or parings of Meat you have, one large Onion with cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of Allspice, the same of Black Pepper, and a roll of Lemon-peel; when it boils, scum it very clean, let it simmer very gently for about an hour and a quarter, if a Duck or Fowl, — longer if a larger Bird; then strain off the liquor, and leave the Ducks by the fire. to keep hot, scum the fat off; — put mto a clean stewpan two ounces of Butter, when it is hot, stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, add the liquor by degrees, let it boil up, put in a glass of Port wine and a little Lemon-juice, and simmer it ten mi- nutes; put the Ducks, &c. into the dish, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried: Bréad, hap 319.) Obs.—If the Poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only till just nicely tender, this will be an acceptable Bonne Bouche to those who are fond of Made Dishes. The flavour may be varied by adding Catsup,— Curry Powder,— or any of the flavoured Vinegars. This is an easy prepared side dish, especially when you have a large Dinner to dress; and coming to table ready carved, saves a deal of tume and trouble ; it is, therefore, an excellent way of serving Poultry, &c. for a Large Party. . Or, Roast, or boil the Poultry, in the usual way,—then cut it up, and pour over it a sufficient quantity of | (i: 305), or (No. 329), or (No. 364, No. 2.) Stewed Giblets.— (No. 531.) Clean two sets of Giblets; see Receipt for Giblet Soup (No. 244); put them into a saucepan, just cover them with cold water, and set them on the fire; when they boil, take off the scum, and put m an Onion, three MADE pisuEs, &e. 417 Cloves, or two blades of Mace, a few berries of Black Pepper, the same of Allspice, and half a teaspoonful of Salt: cover the stewpan close, and let it simmer very gently till the Giblets are quite tender ;—this will take from one hour and a half, to two and a half, according to the age of the Giblets,—the pinions will be done first, and must then be taken out, and put in again to warm when the Gizzards are done :— watch them that they do not get too much done :—take them out, and thicken the sauce with Flour and Butter ;— let it boil half an hour, or till there is just enough to eat with the Giblets; and then strain it through a tammis into a clean stewpan;—cut the Giblets into mouthfuls, put them into the Sauce, with the juice of half a Lemon, and a tablespoonful of Mushroom Catsup ; —pour the whole into a soup dish, with sippets of Bread at the bottom. Obs. — Ox-TaiLs, prepared in the same way, are excellent eating. Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit. —(No. 533.) Cut them into joints, put the trimming in a stewpan with a quart of the Broth they were boiled in, and a large Onion cut in four; let it boil half an hour; strain it through a sieve; then put two tablespoonsful of Flour in a basin, and mix it well by degrees with the hot Broth; set it on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a fine sieve; wash out the stewpan, lay the Poultry in it, and pour the gravy on it (through a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently (it must not bol) for fifteen minutes ; five minutes before you serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish,— and put the Poultry in the middle; carefully skim the fat off the gravy, then shake it round well in the stewpan, and pour it to the Hash. ae N.B. You may garnish the dish with Bread Sippets lightly toasted. , ly tT 5 418 3 a DISHES, &c. Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken. —(No. 534.) Skin a cold Chicken, Fowl, or Turkey ; take off the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a stewpan with the rest of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, a shallot minced fine, the | juice of half a lemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne; thicken it with flour and butter, and Jet it simmer for two or three minutes, till the meat is warm. In the meantime, score the legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled chicken, Obs.—Three tablespoonsful of good cream, or the yolks of as many Eggs, will be a great improvement to it. To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or Rabbit. —(No. 533.) Cut them in quarters, beat up an Egg or two (ac- cording to the quantity you dress) with a little grated Nutmeg, and Pepper and Salt, some Parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs of Bread: mix these well to- gether, and cover the Fowl, &c. with this-batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch oven, or have ready some ‘dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them a light brown colour; thicken a litle gravy with some flour, put a large spoonful of Catsup to it, lay the fry ina dish, and pour the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of Lemon and toasted Bread. See (No. 355.) Devil. — (No. 538.) The Gizzard and Rump, or Legs, &c. of a dressed Turkey, Capon, or Goose, or Mutton or Veal Kidney, scored, — Peppered,—Salted,—and Broiled, sent up for a relate — being made very hot, has aloes the name of a ‘* Devil. - Obs. — This is sometimes surrounded with (No. 356), or a sauce of thick melted butter or gravy, flavoured Se with Catsup (No. 439), Essence of Anchovy, or (No.434), " whe ay MADE DISHES, &Xc. 419 Shallot wine (No. 402), Curry stuff (No. 455), &c. See ‘Turtle Sauce (No. 343), or Grill Sauce (No. 355), which, as the Palates of the present day are adjusted, will perhaps please the Grand Gourmand as well as ‘ vé- ritable Sauce d’Enfer.” —Vide School for the Officers of the Mouth, page 368, 18mo. London, 1682. Toast and Cheese.—(No. 539.) “* Happy the man that has each, fortune tried, To whom she much has giv’n, and much denied; With abstinence all delicates he sees, And can regale himself on toast and cheese.” Kine’s Art of Cookery. Cut a slice of Bread about half.an inch thick, pare off the crust, and toast it very slightly on both sides, so as just to brown it, without making it hard, or burning it. Cut a slice of Cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or double Gloster, is better than poor, thin single Gloster), a quarter of an inch thick, not so big as the Bread by half an inch on each side ;—- pare otf the rind,—cut out all the specks and rotten parts*, and lay it on the toasted Bread in a cheese-toaster ;— carefully watch it, that it does not burn, and stir it with a spoon, to prevent a pellicle forming on the surface. Have ready good Mustard, Pepper and Salt. 7 If you observe the directions here given, the Cheese will eat mellow, and wili be uniformly done, and the Bread crisp and soft, and will well deserve its ancient appellation of a‘ Rare Bit.” Obs. — One would think nothing can be easier, than to prepare a Welch Rabiit ;— yet, not only in Private families, but at Taverns, it is very seldom sent to table in perfection.— We have attempted to account for this in the last paragraph of Obs. to (No. 493.) Toasted Cheese, No.2. (No. 540.) We have nothing to add to the directions given for * Rotten Cheese toasted, is the ne plus ultra of Haut Gotit,—and only bb (his eatable by the thorough-bred Gourmand, in the most inverted state jaded Appetite. Sa 420 MADE DIsHEs, &c. toasting the Cheese in the last receipt, except in sending it up : —it will save much time in portioning it out at table, if you have half a dozen small Silver or Tin pans to fit into the Cheese Toaster, and do the Cheese in these : each person may then be helped to a separate pan, and it will keep the Cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold plate. 3 Obs. — Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over Comfort, than in the serving out of this dish; — which, to be presented to the Palate in perfection, it is imperatively indispensable, that it be introduced to the Mouth as soon as it appears on the Table. Buttered Toast and Cheese. —(No. 541.) Prepare a round of Toast; —butter it;— grate over it good Cheshire cheese about half the thickness of the - toast, and give it a brown. Pounded Cheese.—(No. 542.) Cut a pound of good mellow Cheddar, Cheshire, or North Wiltshire cheese into thin bits, add to it two, and if the Cheese is dry, three ounces of fresh Butter, pound and rub them well together in a mortar till it is quite smooth. ogy Obs. — When Chéese is dry, and for those whose digestion is feeble, this is the best. way of eating it, and spread on Bread, it makes an excellent Luncheon or Supper. xa | N.B. The piqguance of this Buttery-caseous relish, is sometimes increased by pounding with it Curry Powder (No. 455), Ground Spice, Black Cayenne Pepper, aud a little made Mustard; and some moisten it with a glass of Sherry. If pressed down hard in a jar, and — covered with clarified Butter, it will keep for several days in cool weather. | Marrow Bones.— (No. 544.) _ Saw the Bones even, so that they will stand steady ; Hut a piece of paste into the ends; set them upright in MADE DISHES, &c. 421 a saucepan, and boil till they are done enough; —a Beef marrow bone will require from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the thickness of the Bone. Serve fresh toasted Bread with them. Eggs fried with Bacon.—(No. 545.) Lay some slices of fine streaked Bacon (not more than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them before the fire in a Cheese-toaster, turning them when the upper side is browned — first ask those who are to eat the Bacon, if they wish it much or little done, 2. e. curled and crisp, see (No. 526), — or mellow and soft (No. 527 ;) —if the latter, parboil it first. ‘Well cleansed, (see No. 83) Dripping, or Lard, is better taan Butter to fry Eggs. Be sure the fryingpan is quite clean: when the fat is hot, break two or three Eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat over them with a spoon:—when the Yolk just begins to look white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, they are enough ; — the White must not lose its transparency, but the Yolk be seen blushing through it :— if they are done nicely, they will look as white and delicate as if they had been poached, take them up with a tin slice, drain the Fat from them, trim them neatly, and send them up with the Bacon round them. To Poacu Eeas. — (No. 546.) The Cook who wishes to display her skill in Poach- ing, must endeavour to procure Eggs that have been laid a couple of days, those that are quite new laid are so milky, that take all the care you can, your cooking of them will seldom procure you the praise of being a Prime Poacher;— you must have fresh Eggs, or it is | equally impossible. . The Beauty of a Poached Egg, is for the Yolk to be seen blushing through the White, — which should only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a ampere Veil for the Ege. a 422 MADE DISHES, &c. Have some boiling water* in a Tea Kettle, — pass as much of it through a clear cloth as will half fill a stewpan, break the Egg into a cup, and when the water boils, remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slip the Egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it over a very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the Egg is ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly round off the ragged edges of the white, — send them upon a Toast+, with or without Butter; or without a Toast, garnished with streaked Bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, or as done in (No. 545), or slices of Broiled Beef or Mutton (No. 487), Anchovies (Nos. 434, and 435), Pork Sausages (No. 87), or Spinage (No. 122.) Obs.— The Bread should be a little larger than the Egg, and about a quarter of an inch thick: only just give it a yellow colour: — if you toast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour: — or moisten it by pouring a little hot water on it; some sprinkle it with a few drops of Vinegar. To boil Eggs to eat in the Shell, or for SALADS. (No. 547.) The fresher laid the better, put them into boiling water; if you like the white just set{, about fwo minutes boiling is enough, a new laid egg will take a little more ; if you wish the yolk to be set, it will take three, and to boil it Aard for a Sauap, five minutes. See (No. 372.) Obs.— A new laid Egg will not require boiling longer than a stale one, by half a minute. N.B. ‘“‘ Eggs may be preserved for twelve months, in a sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell, * Straining the water is an indispensable precaution, unless you use spring water. + * A couple of poached Eggs, with a few fine dry fried collops of pure Bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal,” says Sir KENELM Dicsy, M.D., in his Closet of Cookery, London, 1669, page 167. ¢ The lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table, is to boil them only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater part of the white, without r a nag the yolk of its fluidity.’— Dr. PEaRson’s Mat. Alim, 8vo. 1808, ?p- 306 ‘ : MADE DISHES, &c. 423 or using for Salads, by boiling them for one minute; and when wanted for use, let them be boiled in the usual manner: the white may be a little tougher than a new laid egg, but the yolk will show no difference.” See HunteEr’s Culina, page 267. ** They reckon 685 ways of dressing Eggs in the French kitchen ; we hope we have here given sufficient variety for English palates, in the preceding receipts. - TgEa*.—(No. 550.) “¢ The Jesuit that came from China, A. D. 1664, told Mr. Waller, that to a drachm of tea they put a pint of water, and frequently take the yolks of two new laid eggs, and beat them up with as much fine sugar as is sufficient for the tea, and stir all well together. He also informed him, that we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea, which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb; the water must remain upon it no longer than while you can say the * Miserere’ psalm very leisurely; you have then only ee * VARIOUS WAYS OF MAKING TEA. 1. “ The Japanese reduce their Tc, to a fine powder by pounding it, — they put certain portions of this into a teacup, pour boiling water upon it, and stir it up, and drink it as soon as it is cool enough.” Qe ** DUBUISSON’S MANNER OF MAKING TEA. « Put the Tea into a kettle with cold water,—cover it close, set it on the fire, and make it all but boil; when you see a sort of white scum on the surface, take it from the fire; when the leaves sink it is ready.” Se “* The night before you wish to have Tea ready for drinking,— pour on it as much cold water as you wish to make Tea,— next morning pour off the clear liquor, and when you wish to drink it, make it warm,” &c. The above are from “ L’Art du Limonadier” de Dubuisson, Paris, p. 267 and 8. Or, 4thly, « 4 great saving may be made by making a tincture of Tea, thus, — pour boiling water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full, — fill each cup up with hot water from an urn or kettie, thus the Tea will be always hot and equally strong to the end, —and one teaspoonful will be fonnd enough for three cups, for each person: according to the present made of making it, three times the quantity is often used.” —See Dr. TRUSLER’s way to be Rich and Respect- able, 8vo. 1796, p. 27. 424 MADE DISHES, &c. the spiritual part of the tea, the proportion of which to the water must be about a drachm to a pint.”—Sir Kenetm Diesy’s Cookery, London, 1669, p. 167. Obs.-—The addition of an Egg makes the “ Chinese Soup” a more nutritious and substantial meal for a Traveller. CorFFEE. : Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double purpose of an agreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without the unpleasant effects of wine. Coffee, as drank in England, debilitates the Stomach and produces a slight nausea. In France and in Italy it is made strong from the best Coffee, and is poured got hot and transparent. In England it is usually made from bad Coffee, Beved out tepid and muddy, and drowned in a deluge of water. _ To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German filter, — pay at least 4s. the pound for it, —and take at least an ounce for two breakfast cups No Coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in London. London people should either take their Coffee pure, or put a couple of teaspoonsful of cream to each cup. | N.B, The above is a contribution from an intelligent Traveller who has passed some years on the Cont % Suet Pudding, Wiggy’s way.—(No. 551.) © Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoons- ful; eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as possible, roll it with the rolling pin so as to mix it well with the flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix all together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put into boiling punter, and boil an hour and a quarter. “Mrs. Glasse has it, “ then You have made Your water ~ boil, then Pie Your pudding into Your pot. eis an ee Sa en ats = Es MADE pDIsuuS, Kc. 425 Yorkshire Pudding under Roast Meat, the Gipsies’ way. (No. 552.) This pudding is an especially excellent accompani- ment to a Sir-loin of beef, a — loin of Veal, — or any fat and juicy joint. Six tablespoonsful of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of milk; so as to make a middling stiff batter, a little stiffer than you would for pancakes: beat it up well, and take care it is not lumpy; put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop into it till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter; — when the upper surface is brown and set, — turn it, that both sides may be brown alike: if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, it will take two hours at a good fire. N.B. The true Yorkshire Pudding is about half an inch thick when done; but it is the fashion in London to make them full twice that thickness. Plum Pudding.—(No. 553.) Suet chopped fine, six ounces. Malaga raisins stoned, six ounces. Currants nicely washed and picked, pie ounces. Bread crumbs, three ounces. Elour, three ounces. | Eggs, three. ha % Sixth of a nutmeg. Buse’ “i Small blade of mace; same quantity of cinnamon pounded as fine as possible. Half a teaspoonful of salt. Half a pint of milk, or rather less. Sugar, four ounces; to which may be added « Candied lemon, one ounce. Citron, half an ounce. Beat the ego's and spice well together, mix the milk with them by degrees, then the rest of the neat dip a fine close linen cloth into boiling water, and put _ it in a hair sieve; flour it a little, and tie it up close; Th 426 MADE DISHES, &c. put it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boiling water; keep a kettle of boiling water alongside of it, to fill up your pot as it wastes; be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least. “ My Puppine.—(No, 554.) Beat up the yolks and whites of three Eggs, strain them through a sieve, (to keep out the treddles), and gradually add to them about a quarter pint of Milk, — stir these well together, — rub together in a mortar two ounces of moist Sugar, ‘and as much grated Nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, — stir these into the Eggs and Milk, — then put in four ounces of Flour, and beat it into a smooth Batter, — by degrees stir into it seven | ounces of Suet (minced as fine as possible), and three ounces of Bread-crumbs, — mix all thoroughly together at least half an hour before you put the Pudding into the pot;—put it into an earthen ware pudding mould, that you have well buttered, tie a pudding cloth over it very tight, put it into boiling water, and boil it three hours. Put One Good Plum into it, and an arch Cook says, you ‘may then tell the Economist that you have made a coop Pium Puppine — without Plums. N.B. Half a pound of Muscatel Raisins cut and added to the above, will make a most ad LUM PupDDING. un a. Obs.— Tf the Water ceases to boil, the | ng will become heavy, and be spoiled ; —if properly ma d, this and the following will be as fine Puddings of the kind | as art can produce. Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they are boiled, as the various ingredients by that means _.» amalgamate, and the whole becomes richer and fuller of flavour, especially if the various ingredients be OUGHLY well stirred together. A tablespoonful of LE will give it a rich brown colour. See Puddin N ), and Pudding Catsup (No. 446.) idding may be BAKED in an oven, or ie MADE DISHES, &c. * 427 under Meat, same as Yorkshire Pudding. (No..:552), make it the same, only add half a pint of Milk more, it should be above an inch and a quarter in thickness, it will take full two hours, — it requires careful watching, for if the top gets burned, an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of the Pudding. — Or butter some Saucers, and fill them with pudding, and set them in a Dutch oven, they will take about an hour. A Fat Puppine. Break five Eggs in a basin, beat them up with a teaspoonful of Sugar and a tablespoonful of Flour, beat it quite smooth, then put to it a pound of Raisins, and a pound of Suet, it must not be chopped very fine, butter a mould well, put im the pudding, tie a cloth over it tight, and boil it Five hours. _ N.B. This is a very delicious composition, and is commonly called a Marrow Puppine. Pease Pudding.—(No. 555.) Put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth; do not tie them up too close, but leave a little room for them — to swell; put them on to boil in cold water slowly till they are tender; if they are good pease, they will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half, rub them through a sieve into a deep dish, adding* to them an ! wo, an ounce of butter, and some pepper and t them well together for about ten minutes, Se * To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this fonda , the economical housekeeper who has a large family to feed, may now add two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mas mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also (No. 107.) | shen these ingredients are well incorporated together; an then flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tie it~ up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour longer. It iS as eood with boiled Beef as it is with boiled Pork; and why not with roasted Pork? Obs. — This is a very good aD etd Pork, or cold Beef. : hed. To many, a 428 MADE DISHES, &c. __N.B. Stir this Pudding into two quarts of the liquor Meat or Poultry has been boiled in, give it a boil: up, and in five minutes it will make excellent ExTEMPORE Pease Soup, especially if the pudding has been boiled in the same pot, see (No. 218), &c. Season it with Pea Powder (No. 458.) Plain Bread Pudding.—(No. 556.) Make five ounces of Bread-crumbs, put them in a basin, pour three quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them, put a plate over the top to keep in the steam, let it stand twenty minutes, then beat it up quite smooth with two ounces of sugar and: a saltspoonful of nutmeg. Break four eggs on a plate, leaving out one white, beat them well, and add them to the pudding. © Stir it all i well together, and put it in a mould that has been well buttered and ‘floured, tie a cloth tight over it, and boil © it one hour. Bread and Butter Pudding. —(No. 557.) You must have a dish that will hold a quart,—wash and pick two ounces of currants, strew a few at the bottom of the dish, cut about four layers of very thin _. Bread and Butter, and between each layer of Bread _ and Butter strew some currants, then break fo in a basin, leaving out one white, beat them. __ add four ounces of sugar and a drachm of nw | e together with a pint of new milk, " | take three si tang of an hour to bake. _ Pancakes. — (No. 558.) ‘Break Mice eggs in a basin, beat them up with a little nutmeg and salt, then put to them four ounces and. a a half of Hour and a little milk, beat it of a smooth then add by degrees as much milk as will make i thickness of good cream, — the fryingpan must be about the size of a pudding plate, and very clean, or they will stick, - eae ae make it hot, and to each pancake put in q . ee ee ere er MADE DISHES, &c. 429 a bit of butter about as big as a walnut; when ‘it is melted, pour in the batter to cover the bottom of ‘the pan, make them the thickness of half a crown, fry scm of alight brown on both sides. (No. 560.) The following Receipts are from Mr. Henry Os- BORNE, Cook to Sir Josepn Banxs, the late Presi- dent of the Royal Society :— Soho Square, April 20, 1820. ‘Sxr,— I send you herewith the last part of the Cook’s Oracle. Ihave attentively | looked over each receipt, and hope.they are now correct, and easy to be understood. If you think any need further explanation, Sir Joseph has desired me to wait on youagain. I also send the Receipts for my ten Puddings, and my method of using Spring fruit and Gourds. I am, Sir, Your humble Servant, Henry Osporne.* Boston Apple Pudding. Peel one dozen and a half of good Apples, take out the cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan that will old them, with a little tl a wy: Sage pass it a ae a hair sieve, add to it the ‘yolk eggs and one white, a quarter of a poun butter, half a nutmeg,‘the peel of a lemon and the juice of one lemon; beat-all well together, line the mside. of a pye-dish with good puff rr put in the pudding, and bake half'an hour. : Spring Fruit Pudding Peel and well wash four, dozen into a stewpan with the. _puddir ‘& Now Fishmonger at Brentford. © ke 430. MADE DISHES, &c. cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as will make it quite sweet, set it over a fire, and reduce it to a mar- malade, pass through a hair sieve, and proceed as directed for the Boston Pudding, leaving out the Jemon juice, as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently acid of itself. Nottingham Pudding. Peel six good apples, take out the core with the point of a small knife, or an apple corer, if you have one, but be sure to leave the apples whole, fill up where you , took the core from with sugar, place them in a pye-dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, prepared as for Batter Pudding, and bake an hour in a moderate-oven. Batter Puddi: Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt and three eggs, beat up well with a little milk, added by degrees till the batter is quite smooth, make it the thickness of cream, put into a buttered pye-dish, and bake three quarters of an hour, or into a buttered and floured basin tied over tight with a cloth, boil one and a half or two hours. Newmarket Pudding. seeds wat half , iad a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf, boil * yr a minutes, sweeten ye ho sugaty some bread en ieitter cut very ‘hin, lay a tebe of it. in a pye-dish, and then a layer of currants, and so on _ till the dish is nearly full, then Bie the custard over , and battonkt fan hour... : or Cabinet Pudding F | mould, or quart basin, and stick with Fanedtchewvie# or fine raisins, and fill up MADE DISHES, &c. 431 with bread and butter, &c. as in the above, and steam it an hour and a half. Vermicelli Pudding. Boil a pint of milk, with lemon peel and cinnamon, sweeten with loaf sugar, strain through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, boil ten minutes, then put in the yolks of five and the whites of three eggs, mix well together, and steam it one hour and a quarter; the same may be baked half an hour. Bread Pudding. Make a pint of Bread-crumbs, put them in a stew- pan with as much milk as will cover them, the peel of cinnamon; boil. about : Baiiutes : 3 sweeten with pow- dered ee sugar; take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs; beat all well together, and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. Custard Pudding. Boil a pint of Milk, and a quarter of a pint of good Cream; thicken with flour and water, made perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an egg on it; break in the yolks of five eggs, sweeten with powdered loaf sugar, grate in a little. nutmeg, and the peel of a lemon; add half a glass of good ‘brandy, then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite stiff, and mix gently all together; line a pye-dish with goo paste, and bake half an hour. | N. B. Ground Rice, Potatoe Flour, Panade Puddings made from Powders, ace or may be, pre- pared in the same way. Hy, : Boiled Custards. is Put a quart of new milk into peel of a lemon cut very thin, a a bay or laurel leaf, a small sti 432 MADE DISHES, &c. over a quick fire, but be careful. it does not boil over; when it boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten minutes; break the yolks of eight, and the whites of four eggs into a basin, beat them well, then pour in the milk @ little at a time, stirring it as quick as pos- sible to prevent the eggs curdling*; set it on thefire again, and stir well with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass it through a tammis, or fine sieve ; when cold, add a little brandy, or white wine, as may be most. agreeable to palate ;— serve up in glasses, or cups. i TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. Sprine Fruit Soup. Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of Rhubarb, _ blanch it in water three or inutes, drain it on a | sieve, and put it into a stewpan two Onions sliced, © a Carrot, an ounce of lean Ham, | Butter ; ‘let it stew gently over a ial: fire till tender, then put in two quarts of good Consommé, to which add two or three ounces of Bread-crumbs, boil about fifteen minutes, skim off all the fat, season with salt and Cayenne pepper, pass it through a tammis, and serve up with me bread. Sprine Fruit Pu DDING ] Clean as Movs three or four dozen sticks o put it in a stewpan, with the peel of a Lemon, a bit of _ Cinnamon, two Cloves, and as much moist Sugar as will sweeten it; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a 2 armalade, pass it through a hair sieve, then add the peel: of a Lemon, and halfa Nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good Butter, and the yolks of four Eggs and one white: and mix all vii a line a pye- dish (that will just contain, it) with good puff paste, | e mixture in, and. bake. it half an hour. For Ba 7) G, edule as above, pass; throagh a fine sieve, Fk N utmeg over each,and: bake about fifteen or a MADE DISHES, &c. 433 Spring Fruir— a Mock GoosEBERRY SAUCE FoR : MacKaAREL, We. Make a Marmalade of three dozen sticks of Rhubarb, sweetened with moist Sugar, pass it through a hair sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat. Sprine Fruit Tarr. Prepare Rhubarb as above, cut it in small pieces into a Tart dish, sweeten with Loaf Sugar pounded, cover it with a good short crust paste, sift a little Sugar over the top, and bake half an hour in a rather hot oven; serve up cold. Spring Cream—or Mock GoosreBrerry Foon. Prepare a Marma directed for the Pudding; to which add a pin od thick Cream; serve up in glasses, or in a deep dish;—if wanted in a shape, dissolve two ounces of Isinglass in a little water, strain it through a tammis, and when nearly cold put it to the Cream, pour it into a Jelly mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. Serine Fruit SHERBET. Boil six or eight sticks of Rhubarb (quite clean) ten minutes in a quart of water, strain the liquor through a tammis into a jug, with the peel of a Lemon cut very thin, and two tablespoonsful of clarified Sugar; let it stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink. 7 Gourps (now called Vegetable Marrow) Stewep, | Take off all the skin of six or eight Gourds, put them in a stewpan, with water, Salt, Lemon juice, and a bit of Butter, or fat Bacon, and let them stew gently till quite tender, and serve up with a rich Dutch sauce + ° . ’ or any other sauce you please that is pequante. Gourp Sour ia Should be made of full-grown Gourds, but not those that have hard skins; slice three or four, and put them U 434 MADE DISHES, &e. in a stewpan, with two or three Onions and a good bit of Butter; set them over a slow fire till quite tender, (be careful not to let them burn,) then add two ounces of crust of Bread and two quarts of good Consommé, season with salt and Cayenne pepper, boil ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, skim off all the fat, and pass - it through a tammis, then make it quite hot, and serve up with fried bread. : Frriep GouRDSs. Cut five or six Gourds in quarters, take off the skin and pulp, stew them in the same manner as for table; when done, drain them quite dry, beat up an Egg, and dip the Gourds in it, and cover them well over with Bread-crumbs ; make some Hog’s-lard hot, and fry them a nice light colour, thr little salt and pepper over them, and serve up quite dry. Reh Another Way. Take six or eight small Gourds as near of a size as possible, slice them with a Cucumber slice, dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great attention is requisite to do these well, —if the fat is quite hot, they are done in a minute, and will soon spoil,—if not hot enough, they will eat greasy To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea.—(No. 563.) Cut a pound of lean gravy Meat into thin slices, put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water, set it over a very gentle fire, where it will become gradually ~warm; when the scum rises, let it continue simmering gently for about an hour, then strain it through a fine sieve, or a napkin, let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear Tea. : N.B. An Onion, and a few grains of Black Pepper, are sometimes added. If the Meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you m Bs Se ot i ~ MADE DISHES, &c. 435. » may mince it and pound it as directed in (No. 503), and make Potten Brer. To make half.a pint of Beef Tea in five minutes for three halfpence, see (No. 252.) Mutton Broth for the Sick. — (No. 564.) Have a pound and a half of a Neck, or Loin of Mutton, take off the skin and the fat, and put it into a saucepan; cover it with cold water, (it will take about a quart to a pound of meat,) let it simmer very gently, and skim it well; cover it up, and set it over a moderate fire, where it may stand gently stewing for about an hour, then strain it off. It should be allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles will float on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken off, and the settlings will remain at the bottom. See also (No. 490), and (No. 252.) N. B. We direct the Meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to be eaten,—so a sick man may have plenty of good Broth for nothing, as ‘by this manner of producing it the meat furnishes also a good family meal. Obs.—This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons—and the only Mutton Broth that should be given to convalescents, whose constitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easy digestion. The common way of making it with Roots— Onions — Sweet Herbs, &c. &c. is too strong for weak Stomachs. Plain Broth will agree with a delicate Stomach, when the least addition of other ingredients would imme- diately offend it. For the various ways of flavouring Broth, see (No. 572. Fon know how much good may be done by such Broth, taken in sufficient quantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers,— half a pint taken atatime. See the two last pages of the 7th Chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. v2 436 MADE DISHES, &e. Barley Water. — (No. 565.) at Take" 6 F icls of ounces of Pearl Barley, wash it clean with cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes; pour off this water, and add to it two quarts of boiling water: boil it to two pints, and strain it. The above is simple Barley Water ;—to a quart. of this is frequently added | Two ounces of Figs, sliced. The same of Raisins, stoned. Half an ounce of Liquorice, sliced and bruised ; And a pint of water. Boil till it is reduced to a qu Obs. — These Drinks are it in ardent Fevers, and i inflamm art, and strain. ended to assuage thirst aatory disorders, for which plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the prin- cipal remedies ;—and if not suggested by the Medical attendant, is frequently demanded by honest Instinct, in terms too plain to be misunderstood: — the Stomach sympathizes with every fibre of the human frame, and no part of it can be distressed, without in some degree offending the Stomach; — therefore it is of the utmost importance to soothe this grand Organ, by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant, and agreeable as the nature of the case will admit of:— the Barley drink prepared. according to the second receipt, will be received with, pleasure by the most. delicate palate. Toothache, and, Anti-rheumatic Embrocation. (No. 567.) To all People, the Tooruacne is anintolerable Tor- ment— not even a Philosopher can endure it patiently —what an overcoming agony, then, must it be to a ‘Grand: Gourmand! —hesides the mortification of being deprived of the means of enjoying that consolation which he looksto as the grand solace for all sublunary cares. ee eg eS ie ner MADE DISHES, Kc, 437 When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the following specific for it :— kx. Sal volatile, three parts. Laudanum, one part. | Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the Tooth which aches be hollow, drop some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the Tooth;—for a general ~ Face-ache, or Sore Throat, moisten a bit of flannel with it, and put it at night to the part affected. Stomachice Tincture —(No. 569),—is Peruvian Bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. Orange Peel, do. one ounce. Brandy, or Proof Spirit, one pint. Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle every day —let it remain quiet two days — and then decant the clear liquor. Dose—a Teaspoonful in a wineglass of water, twice a day, when you feel languid, 7. e. when the Stomach is empty, about an hour before Dinner, and in the Evening. This agreeable Aromatic Tonic, is an effective help. to concoction, —and we are under personal obligations to it, for frequently putting our Stomach into good temper, and procuring us good Appetite and good Digestion. In low nervous affections arising from a languid circulation — and, when the Stomach is in a state of shabby debility from age —intemperance, or other causes — this is a most acceptable restorator. N.B. Tea made with dried and bruised SEVILLE Orance Peew, in the same way as common Tea, and drunk with Milk and Sugar, has been taken by nervous. and dyspeptic persons with great benefit. Suckine a bit of dried Orange Peel about an hour before dinner, when the Stomach is richie is. very grateful and strengthening to it. 438 MADE DISHES, &c. ‘Pargcoric Errxtr. —(No. 670.) A drachm of purified Opium. Same of Flowers of Benjamin. Same of Oil of Anniseed. -Camphor, two scruples. Steep all in a pint of Brandy, or Proof Spirit : “Tet it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up. Strain. — - A teaspoonful in half a pint of White Wine Whey (No. 562), or Tewahdiddle (No. 467), Gruel (No. 572), taken the last thing at night, is an agreeable and effectual medicine for Coughs and Colds. It is also excellent for Children who have the Hoopin g Cough, in doses of from five to twenty Peps in a little water, or on a little bit of Sugar. Dr. Krrcuiner’s Receipt to make: Gruel.— (No. 572.) Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it Tacx or thin; if the latter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint ‘basin, one tablespoonful of Oatmeal, with three of cold water; — if the former, use two spoonsful. Have ready, in a Stewpan, a pint of boiling water or milk, — pour this by degrees to the Oatmeal you have — nixed; —return it into the Stewpan, — set it on the fire, — and let it boil for five minutes, — stirring it all the time to prevent the Oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the Stewpan, — skim and strain it through a Hair Sieve. 2d. To convert this into CaAuDLE,— add a little Ale, — Wine, — or Brandy, —with Sugar, — and if the Bowels are disordered, a little Nutmeg or Ganse grated. Obs. —Gruel may be made with Broth (No. 490), or (No. 252), or (No. 564), instead of water, — (to make Crowdie, see (No. 205*),— and may be flavoured with Sweet Herbs, — Soup Roots, —and Savoury’ Spices, — by boiling them for a few minutes in the water you are going to make the Gruel with, —or Zest (No. 255), — MADE DISHES, &c. 439 Pea Powder (No. 458), — or dried Mint, — Mushroom Catsup (No. 439), — or a few grains of Curry Powder (No. 455), — or Savoury Ragout Powder (No. 457), — or Cayenne (No. 404), — or Celery Seed bruised, — or Soup Herb Powder (No. 459), or an Onion minced very fine and bruised in with the Oatmeal,—or a little Eshallot Wine (No. 402),— or’ Essence of Celery (No. 409),— or (No. 413), —(No. 417),— or (No. 420), &e. Pxain GRUEL, such as is directed in the first part of this Receipt, is one of the best Breakfasts and Suppers that we can recommend to the rational Epicure — is the most comforting soother of an irritable Stomach that we know—and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day’s work ef Intemperate Feasting — when the addition of half an ounce of Butter, and a teaspoonful of Epsom Salt, will give it an aperient quality, which will assist the principal Viscera to get rid of their burden. “ Water Gruel” (says Tyron in his Obs. on Health, 16mo. 1688, p. 42,) is “ the Kine of Spoon Meats,” -and ‘‘ the QuEEN of Soups,” and gratifies nature beyond all others. In the “ Art of Thriving,” 1697, p. 8, are directions for preparing Fourscore Noble and Wholesome Dishes, upon most of which a Man may live excellent well for Twopence a4 day: the author's Obs. on Water Gruel is. that “ Essence of OaTMEAL” makes “ a noble and exhilarating meal)” Dr. Franxuin’s favourite Breakfast was a good basin of warm Gruel, in which there was a small slice of Butter with Toasted Bread and Nutmeg, — the expense of this, he reckoned at three half-pence. Scotch Burgoo.— (No. 572*.) «¢ This humble dish of our Northern brethren forms no contemptible article of food. It possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, pleasantness, and cheapness. It. 440. . MADE DISHES, &c. is, in fact, a sort of Oatmeal Hasty Pudding without milk, much used by those patterns of combined in-’ dustry, frugality, and temperance, the Scottish pea- santry, manners, &c., and this, among other examples of the economical Scoteh, is well worthy of being occa-’ sionally adopted by all who have large families and small incomes. ‘It:is made in the following easy and expeditious manner : — | ‘* To a quart of Oatmeal, add gradually two quarts of water, so that the whole may smoothly mix: then — stirring it continually over the fire, boil it together for a quarter of an hour; after which, take it up, and stir in a little Salt and Butter, with or without Pepper. This quantity will serve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal.”—-Oppy’s Family Receipt Book, p- 204. | . Anchovy Toast. — (No. 573.) Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with a little fresh butter; rub them through a sieve, and spread them on a toast, see (Nos, 434 and 435), and (No. 355.) | Obs. — You may add, while pounding the Anchovies, a little made Mustard and Curry Powder (No. 455), or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little Mace or other: spice. It may be made still more savoury, by ying the toast in clarified butter. Devilled Biscuit —(No. 574.) Is the above composition, spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in a Dutch oven, with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury Spice (No. 457), Zest (No. 255), Curry powder (No. 45), or Cayenne Pepper sprinkled over it. Obs.—-This ne plus ultra of high spiced relishes and (No. 538), frequently makes its appearance at a tavern dinner, when the votaries of Bacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to the Jolly God. MARKETING TABLES, Shewmg the Seasons when Mpat—PovuttRy— Fisu— and VEGETABLES —are Brst and CHEAPEST, MEAT. The Prices were fixed (Jan. 1, 1817,) by an eminent Butcher, who sells an article of first-rate quality; and though the Price should vary, the relative value will be exhibited. is 2 ® w 83 $5 (83 caps reese. S| BEEF. WR Sin &K 2 Tal is 3. THE HIND QUARTER: - tb. 02.| tb. oz. . ' per tb./ bee 13 0 1 8 1 Sir Loin... eesnece oe ee 0 ¥ 9 Roasted (No. a ) : i re -+§ Steak to Broil (No. 94), to 20 ©) 4 0 | 2 Rumprsranioeeseoee 0.912 ish (Nos. 500 and 501.) 11 O| 1 4 | 3 Edge Bone...ccccoee 0 6 {Boiled ONe a Ditto (No. 7); or Savoury 1312; 1 8) 4 Buttock, or Round... 0 7 j Salted Beef (No. 406.) 5 Mouse ditto ..sseees 6 0 |For Alamode Beef (No. 502.) 6 Veiny Piece ...ee..5 © 7 {Generally Baked or Salted. 11 0 1 8 7 Thick Flank .ccvccee 0 6 e@oeseaevegee Salted. 8 Thin CUGUGs'vie-e elvreidian 0 63 eseeeeceneo Ditto. 1| § Soup of (No. 191), Stewed 9. Leg coscccevcscevece QO 2 j (No. Pa 9 )s THE FORE QUARTER. per ib. + 10 Fore Rib, 6 Ribs... 0 9/4 peer EE ag laa and 111 Middle do. 3 do..... 0 7 {Ditto. 12 Chuck do. 3 do. .... 0 5 |For making Gravy. 13 Shoulder, or Leg of? g— 6 |For Steaks or Soup. Mutton Piece os. For Stewing (No. 404), or Harricot (No. 495);—or Salted. 15 Clod POeeesosossceac 0 4} greet big Hs ae | 16 Neck, or Sticking 2 ip; 3 Piece @eoteecece i ® 3h Shai me making Soup. | 1 12 14 Brisket seccocsecccee O 6 | Broth (No. £04), and Stewed (No. 493.) 1g The Head, 3s. 6d. soeerene | in Bead #50), Stewed The Tail, 7d. ecbessecsvee PDO. (No. 240):; Do. (No. 508:) Boiled (No. 18*), Jelly of The Heels ccocsvcscvcaves ‘ (No. 198), Soup (No. 240.*) Excellent Scotch Barley 17 Shin UFcctebesvecces O 2s The (Numbers) refer to the Receipts for dressing. ; v5 of Meat ight o per ib. 1 Leg ..scscocscvcse 2S Loin, best end aecee 2 Do. chump end... 0 8 4 Neck, best end, eoene O 5 Do. scrag end cecose O 6 Shoulder .eccevecsee 0 vf Breastaccescscecssee O Head, Od. cocvesesce The Chine, or the Saddle, two Loins, The Haunch is a Leg, and part of the Loin seccvcss 8 1 Loin, best end .eoove 2 Do. chump end eee. 0 11 3 Fillet ecvcoseececeses 1 1 07 0 103 4 Knuckle, Hindeosece The whole Leg wove 5 Neck, best end..cece 6 Do. scrag end seco The whole Neck eee q Blade Bone sevescee 0 8 0 8 Breast, best end cece 9 Do. brisket end cece 10 Knuckle, Fore .ceeos O The Head, with the Skin on, from.7S. to 15S. cece Do. skinned, 5s. Cutlets wehceseserrescne wn MARKETING TABLES. | MUTTON. 5 |To make Broth (No. 194.) 7 |Roasted (No. 27.) 5 |Grilled, Obs. to ow 38.) Broth. © 9 AEA per bb. : 0 11 | Roasted (No. 35.) © 11 j|Roasted (No. 37.) Do. Qt 0 10 |Roasted. o1'|) 010 |} ” Pom oe 7 Boiled (No. 1), or Roasted (No. 24.) Do. (No. 1), Roasted (No.} 28), Chops. : Do. (No. 8), Roasted (No. . 29), Irish Stew (No. 488), Harrico (No.489), Stewed | (No. 490.) ; Roasted (No. 31), Venisoni- fied (No. 32.) Do. Do. Roasted (No. 34); to make |. Veal Olives -(No. 518), Scotch Collops (No. 517.) } To Ragout (No. 522), to Stew (No. 523), Soup of (No. 193.) _Do. Stewed (No. 515); to Ra- | gout (No. 517), to Curry 0. 497+) nae (No. 515); to Ra- gout (No. 517,.)5 | Same as Hind Knuckle. S Tignes plain (No. 10); to Hash (Nos. 50 and 520.) Fried (No. 90), Broiled ee (No. 521.) ae MARKETING TABLES. _ 445 - y In the foregoing Table, we have given the proportions of Bone to Meat,— the former not being weighed till cooked, — by which, of course, its weight was considerably diminished. " These proportions differ in almost every. Animal,— and from the different . Manner in which they are cut. Those who pay the highest—do not always pay the dearest Price. In fact, the Best Meat is the cheapest ;— and those who treat a tradesman liberally, have a much better chance of being well served — than those who are for ever bargaining for the Market Penny. In dividing the Joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the Bones, Fat, Flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound in most pieces — and a Butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife in favour of that Customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he purchases —., have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain? Have they not invited such conduct ? 4 The Quality of BurcHER MEAT varies quite as much as the Price of it— according to its age —how it has been fed —and especially how it has been treated the week before it has been killed. The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable Tradesman :— BEEF is best and cheapest from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The Price, per pound, now varies from 4d. to Is. VEAL is best from March to July. The price varies according to the season and the supply —and the quality differs so much—that the same Joints now sell from 5d. to 11d. per pound. MutTTon is best from Christmas to June —the difference in price between the worst and the best, now from 5d. to Qd. per pound. Grass Lams is bes¢ from Easter to June— HousEep Lams from Christmas to June. The Editor has for many years purchased his Butcher Meat of Mr. TRED- way, the corner of Titchfield and Upper Mary-le-Bone Street. POULTRY. Come into Season. Continue. Cheapest. Spring Chickens}To be had all beg Noveniher April eeeeeees VEAL covcvecsresne :. Marchi: ¢ 00s 000002 THE SONGS bb ececcase December. Dearest in April,}To be had all the 5 May, and June. VEAL ceccvcsncces t POveMPer, October and Capons _ O96 0e00000 Largest atChristmas Ditto ee eeescvccnnee November Green Geesescoeee|Marchesescccceses| Till Septembersceoee Ditto. Geese @ceeesnessee September essecece Till February e@ovecpe Ditto. Turkey Poults eo.» April Danese ces eee) ER PUNCHs pec.de spies Ditto. ‘Turkeys eeeeveasee Septembereccences Till March wecoeca aoe Ditto. Ducklings eosesece Marché oes oswsees Till May BeSeeerende Ditto. DacksscvceccccsesiJUNG soscssovcesena| Lill February @eoceeee Ditto. December, ild Ducks sess. September ebernnne Till ditto Ooeoreoneee ; pits fe uncertain. POULTRY. Chickens sssoocces Poulards with eggs, Fowls ed0eeee0000 Widgeons eeeeeses Tealeaccvecccscescs Plovers eovesvesec| Larks cevocvcsesesss Novembereevoecovee/ Till Marche oeseeeecs| Ditto. Wheat Ears .cosees July ccccccceccesce And during August.. Wild Pigeons ....|March.oesesceevee/ Lill September oo+0./August. Tame ditto.secccecs 444 MARKETING TABLES. PouLTRY. | Come into Season. Continue. Cheapest —— | Tame Rabbits eevee eeesertoeneecesesedae All the year Cevediveos % Wild ditto .occccee(JUNE cecseonessccce | Till February seeses November. Sucking PigSsccsee eseeseoceseeeeeseeaese All the year eeeesece LeveretS.ccscosece Marches oi. tides. Til Septemberaceses EEAares sacccevecess/ September, ccosess Partridges weeeevee|DittO cecccvcccver Pheasants .ceveeos|OCtober wecccecece Grouse e@eveceonvean AP USE fa 'divielalaW cleo 2 MOON GAME Cieiee Hivisins Cod csinciicwe dkted LAND Mar chiciass sas sae Woodcock Snipes..!| November ...20.0 Cocks-combs, Fat Livers, Eggs, &c, are dearest in April and May, and eheapest in August. FOWLs’ Heaps may be had for three a penny, —a dozen will make a yery good Pye, or Soup, like (No. 244.) . Turk48Y Heads, about a penny each. Duck GiBLETs, about three half-penee a set, four sets will make a Tureen af good Soup for sixpence, see (No. 244.) ie Ons. — POULTRY is in greatest perfection, when in greatest plenty. The Price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, —and the supply at market,— and the demand for it. It is generally Dearest from March to July, when the town is fullest, — and Cheapest about September, when the Game season commences, and the weather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distant parts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it. The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to Economical Families, — who, from hearing the very high price Poultry sometimes costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it,—in the cheap seasons we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as Butcher-meat. The Editor purchases his Poultry of Mr, Figieis, Duke Street, Oxford Street. FISH. The Prick of FisH is as changeable as the position of the wind,—and entirely depends upon the supply. You may purchase as much for one shilling to-day, as to-morrow you ‘can get for two or three, —and may generally buy one sort of fish mueh-eheaper than another. For the following observations on the fish, the Publie are -indebted ‘to Mr. WILLIAM TUCKER, Fishmonger, Great Russel Street, Bloomsbury. _“ October 18, 1816. “¢ Sin,— Sgasons OF FIsH frequently. will vary ; the spawning time being governed, in some degree, by the heat or coldness of the season; and there may be a good Cod in the midst of summer,—or a good Turbot.in the midst of winter; — Attention to the proper Seasons. of Fish, is, however,. very important, for many are absolutely poisonons when out of season — especially BARBELL — SALMON —SKATE, &c., and occasion most frightful vomitings and purging, &c. “© There is no article so fluctuating in price as fish, the London market being supplied principally by water carriage from all parts of the eoast; the wind cannot be fair for all; the consequence then is, “rane ae Geeat abundance of some sorts, and none, or little, of many others. . . *< Persons send their servants to market, to get, perhaps, a Ti urbot, or Cod’s: head and shoulders;—it very likely happens.those articles.are searce and extravagant: —the servants have no other order, or perhaps wilt not take the trouble to get other orders, but order a turbot at 30s. or 40s., Whereas 7 Banal, Cre aR Rl MARKETING TABLES: 445 they might have as good a dish of any other sort for half the money. Tn this case the tradesman is frequently condemned as an extravagant fellow, when, ‘ena 4 he gets nothing by selling it. . It is people’s own fault that they ave fish at such an extravagant price ;— if masters or mistresses were to go to market themselves,—if one sort was dear, they could have another; or, if not convenient to go themselves, desire the fishmonger to send a hand- some dish, the most seasonable and reasonable, for so many persons.” VEGETABLES. The Public residing in London, or other large Towns, are frequently, from want of regular information when the proper seasons arrive for Vegetables, put to much inconvenience in attending the Markets, making unnecessary inquiries, &c. Ses following List, it is presumed, will afford much usefal information to the eader : — Earliest time Earliest for Forced. | Natural Growth. When Cheapest. Names of Vegetables. Artichokes (NO. 136.)..|.coscescessoece|July op. to October. September. Nov. Dec. and following months. June. |Do.Jerusalem(No. 117.) From Sept. to June. j Middle of May — and whole of June. Beginning of|Middle of April } January .. Moy, june, &dniy st June and July. Early in Fe-|End of June or be- bruary......| ginning of July .. i August. eoenacreeseses NULY deceive cs segeinacs September. COCoeAOE% eeeoner Angelica stalks eard Preserving), seeeee Asparagus (No. 123.).. Beans, French ory Kidneys .....cenes Scarlet ditto eeoveseeess Windsor beans, long- pods, & early kinds, t Beet Red (No. 197.) ... —— White, the leaves, Borcole or Scctch Cale, or Kale Sea Brocoli (No. 128.) cee» Cabbage (No. 118.) .... DTS PER) Fs cess cc sc Ditto, white eeeeeceosetse JUNC. seeeeeeneeeeees(July and August. All the year ..+.++++|Dec. and Jan. JAY avec etre vewwwess eeseaeeeeeenne eecoeesoeeeeaae November ...ceeeeee| Dec, and Jan. October wecvecscveesiFeb, and warch. May and June ...s«+-\July. July and August ...-/August. October oeeece.ccevee(October. Nov. and 3° fol- De b lowing bibatheot be re ohh May .-seccevevcesvee/August. Beginning of June....|July and August. Ditto September ....|November. April ecoccccccseveseiJUNE. eee tele tard twa ney June. Mar, and through the year Cee neiacde Beginning of July..../Aug. and Sept, June, and through|September and the year ...+....| ‘October. September, and six] November and Cardoons epeseeeeeesene Carrots, (No. 129:) os. Cauliflowers (No. 125.) Celery (No. 289.) tee } Chirvel woeceseeeseneos Corn sallad .sccccscoos ‘Chervil (No. 264.) ease Cucumbers (No. 135.).. ‘Endive sees eeseagorees eeeecesesesecae eeesecoesenece March oceidecen SOoKereesereoe ®eeeeeesseceese Leeks @Geeesesesoeeene months after .....| December. Lettuce, Coss soveccceleceseescvcesee {April eceoeereseneses June, July, and Ditto, Cabbage. .cocssolecsscveccecens Ditto Seeseo.eeenee0e August. October and November. Aug. Sept. and fol- Onions for keeping aces See sf essece ne lowing months .. 446. Name of Vegetables. Do. Turnip, red and white eovecreevece Do. Black Spanish .... Small Salad (No. 372.) Salsifyeccccccecvcceses SCOFZONELAceeecveceees Sea Kale (No. 124.)..0. Shallots for keeping (No. 402.) eeeeeene Savory Cabbage eevee OrTel wesecccccvecvacs Spinach, Spring ..ccces Turnips Peeoeeresesnes Do. Tops (No. 122.) «+» for Forced. Parsley (No. 261.) ese avencnor tess Parsnips (NO. 128.)scceleccccscevccese Pease (No. 134.) cesses i} Potatoes (No. 102, &e.) Marchi. ..ca ses 5 Radishes ‘see's cscvcece has Do. Winter ve.cccoress MARKETING TABLES. Earliest Naturat Growt Earliest time Feb. and brig the Year eovcee October, and con- tinue until Maye June, July, and fol- lowing months «. May, and through the year seseceee inning of|End of March, and March....| following months Beginning or middle of May @eceee h. |WVhen Cheapest. February and March. July. August and fol- lowing month. June. May and June, i June. ececetocnecnes Ditto eoeoeseneaceses Ditto. August, and fol- lowing months, eeCeveetecaensene All the year @eeeseces Ce reecvesneceon July, August cessnces ®eeeeeteseaeees Ditto SePavseseoessoense Dec. and Jan. {April and May ...... August, and through the year csecseee Sept., and ama 8 ing months. ee. Coeesavecesees All the Year coccavce March, April, and following months, eeeseseeoeeseose Oct. Nov. and fo)- lowing months, May, June, and following months, March, April, and May eecoeeeneece i eptember. May and June. — y Sept. and two fol- lowing months. November. , June and July. Ditto. ey November , June and July. } April and May. Ditto for Saladsceccees eeeservesesseoe April and Maysveevce June and July. Ditto, Welch. .occcccccleccescccaccees| FEDIUALY sccvceseseco The foregoing Table was written for this Work by Mr. BUTLER, Herbalist and Seedsman, opposite Henrietta Street, Covent Garden Marke}, to whom the Public are indebted for (Nos. 461 and 462.) The above Tables are one of the Editor's most suc- cessful efforts to improve THE Economy or Domestic ComFoRT. If the Reader has found that. the professions i in his Preface have been realized in his Receipts, —the Time he has devoted to this Work could mat have been better ‘fh. employed. INDEX, ENN The =A ine under No. refer to the Receipts — those preceded by p. to the ri ———— No. Acid of Lemon, attifidials -407* Accum. on -Adulterations, quoted OOO COTE TES oe eee An Alderman in Chains --. Alamode Beef, or Veal, or English Turtle--.+++++- Allspice, Essence of: ———,: Tincture of ++++.- Albion. House, Aldersgate- Street, p. 200, and 280. Anchovy Sauce---- Essence+s sees. "Foastessc.ceces otree eenaeoe @oneeoe & od Paste Powders «e+e rcs. to keep them well, IN OFG 40 9:02 a2 6-22 ne eeeces Mr. Burgess’s Es- sence of, in Note to -+++ 433 Apicius, his Sauce for boiled Chicken, p. 36. Appetite good, why the best Sauce, p. 63. Appetite, to refresh, p. 42. li y a trois sortes, Note to p.40... . Appert, his Art of Preserv- ing. Vegetables, p. 111. Apple Sauce eee reece cene Apothecaries’ Hall, N. B. to Artichokes ««++cscercvsce Jerusalem ++++++ Asparagus eececreceet ees Soup -serresees 299 Arrack, to imitate +-+++++* 480 Arbuthnot, Dr. quoted, Pref. p. v. Abernethy, Mrcaueted, es 9. Bacon: po 504 369 136 117 123 13 Slices of «« * yee 1 + 596 Res Bacon, Fealslieg Bibahiirs on 527° —— Sparerib to Roast - 53 Bain-Marie, Note to 485 & 529 Baking, p. 92. Barley-water++s+see+s- oo — Broth. to make a Gallon for a Groat: oe oesscecence Basil Vinegar, or Wine--+- Sauce Beans, French +«+sseeseee Beauty, p. 61. Bechamel «+-cees.s0% vee 364 Beef Bouilli -+++-+ 5, 238, 493 how nutritive and eco- nomical err er ey 5 to Salt -- Savoury a. Wiaieresly a Round. of, Salted, to ; boils ececvccccccnccncres ir what the outside Slices - are good for. N.B.to-» 7 H-Bone. e+eeeecccce’ 8 —— Ribs, and rolled +++* 9 Baron of, p. 36. — Sirloin Roasted ---++ 19 proper way to Carve, eevee e800 6 eaoeoese in Note to wee ensccace ° 19 —— as Mock Hare +-++e.+ 66 —— Ribs Roasted «+--+. 20 Do. boned and rolled. 91 Steaks to Fry -++e++ 85 Season for, see Noteto 94 —— with Onions++++-+++ 86 to Brojl«+seee.s.cse% 94 Macheth’s Receipt, and Le Veritable Bif-teck de Beauvilliers. N.B. to +--+ 94 to Stew -seceeccccsee 500 —— with Onion Gravy ++ 501 448 INDEX. No. No. Beef Broth-+ eseceessee* 185 ter of the Rudiments of —-— Broth. for Glaze, .or . Cookery, p- 106... Portable Soup or Sauce- 252 | Broth, see the 7th Chap. of Gravy +seceseseess 186 Rudiments of Cookery, —— Strong Gravy «++-+--+ 188] p. 116. —— Cullis ++ eeeseeeeee 189 | Broth, Black, p. 37. for Poultry, &¢. «+++ 329 | ——, of gna p- 66. . =—— Shin of Beef Soup. « ++ 993 | ——, Beef <+++.-eeerew 185 oo Tea Cees eee ecne ee « 563 —-, to Clarify -. ee Se + 95Q* to Hash - eeeves eee 486 —, Mutton abecereres 194 —— Shin Stewed +--+» «+++ 493 | ——, Mock ditto «+e+-+-+ 195. — Brisket ditto-++*+++++ 494 ace, with Cutlets --++++ 490 Harricot «seerccrs- 495 » Scotch Barley serves 204 - Hunter’s Savoury ——, for Sick «+++0+. +++ 564 Baked, or Stewed ++ -- 496] Browning, to colour Soup —— Alamode, or English and Sauce, &c, «+-+#» 322 Turtle-+++- covccesoess 502] Bill of Fare for a Week, to Pot + ++ +pied etna 503| p. 69s Bubble and Sadek Bureess, Mr. famous for and the Tune of «+++++ 505 his pap of Anchovy; Hashed, and Bones Note to s++teseeeeeves 433 Broiled +++ +<+-+ vereoee 506 | Burnet Noleu has the Cold, Broiled, &c. «+ 487 same taste as Cucumber 399: Beer, to recover when hard 468 | Do. Sauce +e++eess 964 to Bottle +++-+++. soe 468 Burne! s Directions for- -_— Cu peoeooe Coens eeoe 464 drying Herbs--- « sceoee e 461 Beet Roots -+++++++se++- 1297 | —— Do. do. Pickles «+++ 462 Bishop, Essence of «++++++ 413 | to market for Vege- Black Cock +v«+osseeess 74 tables, p. 445. Boit1ne, p. 85. 2 | Butler, Obs. on the business Bonne Bouche for Geese, of a, Note to p. 44. Pork, &c. e+eee+se++e+ 341 | Butter, best manner of melt- Brandy, how to obtain ge- Ing seeeeeeee oo sie@ ewe) O56 nuine Cogniac, p. 576. to recover when oiled» 256 Bread Sauce *+++++eeeee+ 394 | ——— Clarified «+eeesss+++ 959 Sippets Fried ++++++ 319 Burnt -verreesseeee 260 ~——- Crumbs ditto «++.«. $90 aa Oiled «+ eee eves + oe 260¥ —— Pudding, p. 431. Cabbage ««ssecereesvewe 118 Brocoli -+++++++se+se+e+ 1296 | ——--—- Broiled and Fried, Brill «eres seeee eeeeeees 143 or Bubble and Squeak -- 505 Brains, are sadly dependent , Do. ‘do. Tune of «+ 505 on Bowels, p. 9 Calf, a fatted, preferred to — Dr. Cadogan’s Obs. a Starved Turtle + +\0+++ 247 thereon, p. 11. Head to Boil --++-+«« 10 Brain Balls, p. 337. Broiling, see the 4th Chap- ae. ae Do. Hash+s+eeeeees 10 , Ragout eceewes 520 INDEX. No. 247 481 4035 158 129 212 Calf’s Head, Mock Turtle - Calf Feet Jelly -++++e-s0s Camp Vinegar eececceeses Carp Stewed ---++-+eeee Carrots eee or eee oeeceeecs Soup: eS@eeree e@ocoete Carving, best rule for, p. 49. Ancient terms of, p. 50. Dr. Trusler’s Book, teaching the art of, p. 21. Catsup of Mushrooms -+++ 439 —— Double ditto, or Dog- sup, p. 359. —— of Walnuts ---++++2 438 —— of Oysters ++++ee++ 441 — of Cockles -+++-+++ 442 —of Tomata +eeesees 443 of Cucumbers --++++ 3 Pudding. +++++++-- ‘ Caper Sauce -+++eeseseee ae — Mock osee+s* 975 Capon to Roast--+++s+ees Capillaire MG winlaseicielaievekta Cauliflower ereeerveeoeneee8 Caudle --.- Cautions to Carvers, p. 49. Cayenne, how to make---.- — Essence of Celery Soup -++++++eeee Sauce eerccccosecs Seed, substitute for Celery, p. 120. ee Essence eeeoeeecere Cheap Soup ++++seseseee Cheese and Toast «s+e+eoe — Toasted -- Buttered ditto---+.- Pounded or Potted: - Chervil:Sauce -++-es--0% Chili Vinegar. +++.+++++++405* Wine oer sccerceee eff ** Chicken. See Fowl. Ghops, Mutton, Pork, Beef, “to Broil. +++ cesses 6-99 & 93 to Fry Pa ee ee 85 == to. Stews + ss seeds 490 e@eeeereseeese? i 449 No, Chops, Relish for ++++++++ 493 — Sauce for -+seees+e+ 356 Cinnamon, Essence of «+++ 416. Tincture of ++ ++416* Claret, best Wine for Sauces, &c. p. 124. Clarified Syrup ++++++ce+ 475 Clarify Broth +--+ +++++0+252* Clove and Mace, Essence of 414 —————-— Tincture of 415 Cockle Catsup -+++++++++ 442 Cod, boiled ++++++e+esee% 4149 —— the Tail filletted, Note UNderessesevsseeveces 449 —— Slices boiled-+++++++ 151 —— Skull stewed--++++++ 158 Codlings broiled +++++++*+ 152 — Shaved and sold for Whitings, Obs. to++++++ 153- Cold Meat, to broil with Poached Eggs ++++++++ 487 Do. to warm the best way, p: 65. Fish, ditto. Sauce for, 453, 372, and 359. Veal, an excellent Dish Gl Csesiaie eiate bl @ ore eoecee 512 Fowl, ditto s+-+ese+ 533 Colouring for Soup and Sauce 322 —— a frequent Cause of Adulteration ++++++++ 322 Committee of Taste, p. 4. Consommé +--+: Coffee, to make, p. 424. Cooks, friendly Advice to, p. 55. Hints to, p. 68. Do. when they have a very large Dinner, p. 79. Cause of the Scarcity of good. ones, .p. 393. deserve good Wages, p- 13. —— A Manor given to one by William the Con- queror, p. 12. 450. No. Cooks, Obs. concerning their ‘Health, Note to p. 19. Gok Tease er, where not to put him, p. 51. Cooking Animals, dine only Once a month, p. 5. Cookery, ‘Descartes’ Obser- vations on, p. 7. — Dr. Johnson’s ditto, ‘ps B —— Theory of, p. 10. — Importance of, p. 11. —— Dr.Stark, p.v.andvi. —— The Analeptic part of Physic, p. 6. —— Dr. Mandeville, p. vi. —— Arbuthnot, p. vi. Parmentier, p. ix. — Sylvester’s Obs. on, - Note to p.9. —— best Books on, Note to p. 9. Theory of the. Pro- cesses of, from the Ency- _ clopad. Brit.— Note to p- 10. =— List of 200 Books of, p. 24. —— Opinion of a Cook on them, p. 22. Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener, p. 12. Coulis, or Thickened Gravy 189 Coup @aprés, p. 143: Crab, to boil --+-++++ee+ee+ 177 Cray Fish Soup----- reeves 235 Ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont «*% +. evcees 935 Ditto, clouted -+--++- 388 Crowdie: «se esesccesc ee eIQ5* Crisp eehedong 94 sere 318 Currant Jelly-+++++++++++479* Curry Powder seseseses+ 455 Soup athlete 6 dots oes P49 eee Sauce eoeceeeeenece 348 INDEX. No. Curry Balls a atalehele iaietalarelae 382 —— to dress- srescccess 4907 Cura¢oa, how to make ++++ 474. Custard Pudding; p. 431. ? Cyder Cup sede evevcese 465. Culinary: 1 ne Pp. e Crane, p. 35. Curlews, p. 35. Cat-in-gely, p. 36. Corks, p. 139. Cement for sealing Bottles, pe 139. . ss Caw-Caw Bones, N.B. toe 1 Cow-Heel, to dress -+e+++ 18* Cress Sauce ++eesssesses 964 Vinegar See ee ees 0 GQ7K Cucumber Stewed -+++++ «8 135 — Vinegar- eovcces 399 Carp, to Stew ereccvence 458 | Charity, the'greatest, p.17. — Devil +s sveccvvsasecece 538 his Venison, p, 35. - —— Sauce for, p.524. Biscuit oseesedecovvee play Dallaway’s Servant’s Moni - tor quoted, p. 57. Digestion, how a, oc 8. Digbuest p- 127 and 283. Dripping, toclarify'-+++** 83 Mrs. Melroe, and Dr. Stark’s Obs. on #**e+ee8 83 Soups sssecoccevene 259 Duck, to Roast++ssseeors 61 Bonne-Bouche for +* 341 to Hash - -csccccvece 550 Cold, to Warm «+++ 535: —— Wild, to Roast.-+++. 74 Dutch Salad, Obs. to +++*+ 372 Dinner, seven chances against its being Lith ate baer opie p. 13. Hints for preparing a large, p. 78,79. - a Invitation to, p. 38. Importance of punc- 451 INDEX. ’ No. No. tuality, the only act which Essence of Cayenne ++++++ 405 cannot be postponed, Lemon Peel-+++-+++ 407 p- 39. ——— Ditto oscervercceser 408 Dinner, Arrangement of Celery s++sessevere 409 Guests at, p. 44. ——- Ginger++seereeesee Ait —— Rules for Behaviour ee Boy ctoeesesss AID at, from the Accomplished —— Clove -s+-+seesse% 414 Ladies’ Delight, p. 27. —— Mace orreseeeveee 414 Hints for providing, —— Cinnamon «+++. + 92+ 416 p- 41. —— Marjoram ++++++++- 418 Gbs. on Second —— Sweet Herbs --+--- 419 Courses, &c. p. 41. —— Soup Herbs++esees+ 490 —— Punishment’ for not —— Eshallot eeeecssess 402 being punctual at, p. 47. Soup Herbs and Sa- ——— Boileau’s Obs. p.48. voury Spice sessssss0 422 Hints to those who Punch ‘+ eeccssoess 474 dine out, p. 54. bas Epicure, the Editor’ s Defini- Edge-Bone of Beef, see tion of, Note p. 5. H-Bone +++++--+seee¢+ 8 the temperate man the — ways of spelling +» 8 greatest, p. 7. Education ofa Cook’s eto nig Economy, the first rule of p-63é"**** comfortable, p. 77. Eels Stewed Wiggy’s way** 164 | Fawn osessesereesceseeen 65 Pickled +++e++++++++ 161 | Fennel and Butter for Mack- — Fried -«+ccesecvevese 165 arel socccsecceseccree O65 Eggs, to preserve for twelve Fish, see the 6th Chapter of Months, see N.B. to «+ 547 Rudiments of Cookery, Sauce eeecsssessees 267 p- 112. © . fried with Bacon «+++ 545 cold, to re-dress, p. 65. Ragout «ssseerseees FAS fecundity of, p.113. | —— with minced Bacon -+ 549 how to market for, Poached «+ee--++++ 546 p- 444. Do: with minced Ham 548 to Steweseeessoeese 158 boiled in the Shell ++ 547 Do. Maigre Soup-+++ 925 Do. fora Salad -+++ 372 Gravy -erssseeseess 333 Epictetus, a Relish for +++ 27 Sauce sseeresseses 495 Eshallot Sauce +++++++++* 294 | —— to pickle e++e+esse+s 161 Vinegar ++-eeeeee+ 401 Forcemeat, to make +e++¢+* 373 | Wine ‘sseeereeeees 402 Materials his i Essence of Turtle -+++++++ 343 p- 334. —— of Ham «eeeeseess 351 for Veal: esseessees 375 where to buy it, N.B. for Turkey + +++++e+8 S77 TO cers veresenceerece 351 for Guose es eeccsecee 378: Essence of Mushrooms.++-+ 440 | —— for Hare ++++++e++* 379, of Oystersee++eeees, 441 Balls, for Mock Turtle om of Anchovy+++++++* 433 and Made Dishes ++++++ 380 452. INDEX.’ No. No. Forcemeat, Duck Stuffing do, Goose, Dr. Stark says, is + for dow. N. B. to: «+++ 380 the most nutritive Boats eT Egg do.. eececeseee ee 381 - p- 180. > oft 59 —— Curry. do. eeseeeees 382 — Zest, &c. +++ 383, 4, 55-6 —— To mix Orange and Lemon. Peel ++.+0+eee++ 387 Flip esccseecccceeceess 466 Flounders ++ ++++eseseses 155 Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the _ same time, p. 34, to. Boil-».0.0,0.0 «0 esl 6) 46 to Roast «eveeseees 58 — to Broil .+..e%s00. 97 Hashed « «c++ ccce.+ 533 —— Pulled ier esct ositess 534 —— to dress Cold +*++++ 535 Fricasee «+++ercee* 536) —— Do. ina minute -+-+ 537 —— Apicius’s Sauce, for, p. 36. : French: Beans . -+-+.+.0.0.+.«+0« 193 —— to Froth, &c. Roast ‘Meat, p.99..---- oak Frogges Fried, p. 36. Fare, Bill of, for a Week, p- 69. Frying, p. 103. Flavour, agents employed to Soups and Sauces, Note under p. 137. Flounders, Fried: or Boiled » 155 Game, Obs..on, by: Major - PHawhker.s«.s s+ osesiareny bh} Ge —— to render immediately Ripe for Roasting, p. 72. Garlick Vinegar +++ «+++.» 400 —wae SAUCE) ot 6 cle je isaiew die 979 Gravy eeeccesceess SI] Giblets Stewed: ++++++++9» 534 ee Soupssssceees veces G44, Gherkins, p. 371. Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. TO ‘seeeee Cav seer eee eee 1 Ginger, Essence of+++«++++ 441 Goose; to Roast++eeeseeee . —— Do. Alive, p. 33,34. — —— to persuade one, to | Roast himselfe!! p. 34. —— how the Liver is fat- | tened for the Strasbourg _- Pies. In Note to «+--+ 59 —— to Hash »--... eve 530 —— Green «cececeseeeee 60 —— Mock eeeeescrcsee 51. —— Bonne-Bouche for. ++ 341 —— Relish for, p. 34. Gourds, various ways of dressing, p. 433. Gourmanp defined, Note under. p. 5. . Gourmandize, to against, p. 14. . Gooseberry Sauce+++++++ 263 Gravy, read the 8th Chap- ter of the. Rudiments of - Cookery. ' —— for Poultry, Ragouts, &e. —— Do. without Meat -- —— Excellent ditto, in five MINUEES seeeceecevvcer@ a ae Maigres+++rceeeees -_—o Fish ece tee toeoeeees —— Mock — Onion © ©8 Pees eeen Garlicke «esccccsees —— Game <«crceseesoes —— strong with Mushrooms ——= for Wild Duck-+-++ for Snipes — Roasted Meat +*++*+ 326 — Boiled seseeen B27. Wow Wow for Salted or Stewed Beef ++reerss 328 for Grills and Broils,. Kr er ecceveresnevcee G55 for Chops and Steaks 350. | guard -@e ef J - Ve cans ent 334 252 332 333 335 299 311 337 330 338 340 weer eeeeogo ee -e@ eeeenes INDEX. Gravy, Relish for Chops and thas eh etsseceg ele. Veal Cutlets -—— Cold Meat or Poultry, &e. veee Russian do. ++ +« Hashes of Mutton, &c. Do. Veal ecccccrese for Venison of Wine - —— Vinegar for Venison of Currant Jelly 48 Jack, to dress, «seecccceses —_— Chops eee eeoee esoe GQ- —— Savoury Sauce for Cold —— Shoulder grilled -+++ 491 Meat ccccsscccscccces 357 Lamb’s Fry ++++++e: 4.92 Jelly, Ox-Heel +++++-+0+. 19% | Larders, proper, p. 68. Calf’s-Feet Ceeessece 481 Larks eoeeeeeccves eeeceeeve 79 . of Currants and other Leg of Beef Soup. See Shin. Fruits: ++ s+seseereeeee 479* of Beef Soup. . Jerusalem Artichokes «++. Lemon Syrup s++¢r-++++: 391 Jounson’s Brandy and Li- Pickle +++er+eseees 450 queurs. N.B. to +++++* 471 Sauce. sesereeeee: + 273 Jounson, Dr. quoted, p. 8. --— Juice, artificial.----- 407* Kay, Mess. of Albion-House. Lemon and Parsley Sauce++ 287 - Wines, &c. Obs. to++ 44 | Lemon Peel Essence++-+-+ 407 Turtle, &c. Note at foot of p. 280. Kguty’s Sauce for Calf-head or Cow-heel @oeeeetencea 312 ——. Do. for Sauce Biananie 313 Kid, to Roast ++++++e+e-- 65 Kidneys, to Broil «+++ee+% 95 Kitchen-Maid, business of a 18 Kitchen Fire-place, best Or- naments for, p. 78. Chimney should be swept often, p. 66. -——. Utensils, p. 116. Kitchiner, Dr. quoted, Note under p. 30, and No. 572. Life, the Art of Invigorating and. Prolonging, by the Author of this Work, pub- lished by Hurst and Ro- binson, 90, Cheapside, p- ¥. Lamb, to Boil cerned ecew 3 —— to Roast -oe-sssseee 40 —— Sham Lamb do, +--+ 40 Hind Quarter *+-+++ 41 Fore Quarter ---++- 42 - Leg eee era ren eosee 43 —— Shoulder -cececeess 44 - 408 408 477 471 —— Quintessence do.+++-« Tincture do. s+++e. . Lemonade in a minute +--+. Liqueurs Liver of a Goose. See Note undereeeeecs os 2% See ue Liver and Parsley Sauce «+ Do. for Fish + Lobster, to. Roast ++-++*++ — = LOU EOLIe eels sas Wiaislele Sauce ecsscccece os Sauce for Lobster. -> Soup cece cece Potted ++» Cake @e @©Ceeresee et? Pudding -- —— Salad —— Spawn, to preserve, N.B. tOseccecses Liquamen of the Romans, 59 287 288 82 176 284 285 237 178 179 180 37% eeeoeoea eo eee 284 eooeee p. 37. Lacedeimon, Black Broth of, p. 37. ——. Do. Sauce, p. 37. Liqueurs, p. 123, and No, Maccaroni Soup, see Obs. to Mackarel, Boiled +++++«+-+ Soused 474 200 167 168 Mackarel, Broiled-.++ +++ Baked e@oeoeeoeee eee . Pickled —— Roe Sauce Made Dishes, Obs. on, see -9th Chap. of Rudiments of. Cookery. Economical ditto++- + Magazine of Taste>+++++-- _ Maigre Gravy Mandeville, Dr., Pref, -p.-ve + -: Manners, the importance of good, p. 49 Marjoram, Essence of «+++ Marrow Bones. +++++e++«+ Mastication, importance of, p- 331. c Meat, Soup from any boiled, p- 89. Melroe, Mrs., her Economi- cal Cookery quoted ---- Melted Butter, p. 289, and No. 256. - Minced Collops, p. 389. Mint Sauce a eeoeoeeeee @e@sreereesre? quoted, —— Vinegar eceseseers § Mock Turtle Soup+++++++s Mock do. do. by E. Lister- Merlin’s contrivance to save trouble, &c. to Servants, p- 22. Moor Game a?@e@e@sreeeoe08 Morels, Obs. on, p. 125. Mulled Wine, ——- Extempore «+eeerss Catsup+sercesseove Quintessence +++++» Marrow Bones ---- Vegetable, p. 433. Musical Hpitaph, p. 112, @eeease —_——.. ———= eoeeeeesveeeed @seee 2 He oe eeece 455 No. 1 2 24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 QR 490 564 ee 195 » 484 489 249 305 306 307 439 440 544 456 ae Oe Music of Bubble and Squeak 505 Nutmeg, Tincture of ----++413* Nutmeg Grater, the best, p« 84. Onion, Obs. on, p. 120. Stewed ——— Gravy eeeeeeeeeoee Roasted «ccoecceees Young Onion Sauce+ + Sauce «ecccsccoecnn White do. Brown -- Sage and Onion «+e+ Ox-Cheek Stewed +-++-++- Soup Portable Soup of++-- Tails Stewed Ox-Head Soup ----- Ox-Tail Soup-+++++eeeees 240 Ox-Heel Jelly «+--+. 198 Do. Soup++-+-+ 20+ 940* Oysters, how to feed and to preserve their lives,—and how -to tickle them to death «ersceee - certainly not so nutri- tive as supposed, N.B. to - Natives, those that are born and bred in the Burn- , Note to++++ 181 137 331 138 296 297 298 299 300 507 240 252 508 239 ee eteeeeo eee ee ae @eoeaeeeeve ed eeerescee eee e@oeeeeeen ene 181 181 Gen! Essence of ++++++++ 441 ‘Scallog Rees a+: 182 Stev eds eoecvre 182* | Sauce eeerccesccves Y78 — Pickled «e+ee++ sexe YO -preserved in Powder 280 Osborne, H., Cook to Sir J. Banks, p. ix. p. 61. Do. his Receipts for Puddings, &c. ++++++++ 560 Oatmeal, a Substitute for Bread-Crumbs, p. 105. Pancakes oeceereresvece 558 ‘ Pharmacopeia, Appendix to, p. ix. INDEX. No. Parmentier quoted, Pref. ix. Parsley and Butter *++e.+ 261 —v— to preserve, N.B. to + 261 Ss, Fried os .ealeieiaue oe ee 317 Crisp eeeceees os ++ 318 Partridge eocccsescsecee§ FO Soup oo ee. eC eee eee 941 Pease, to Boil «+++.++-++ 154 Pudding «+++e++se* 555 how to make for half the usual expense, Note tO secccrcccvcccveccove 555 —_—_— Soups eaverceersese 218 Do. in five minutes «+ 555 —~— Curry Pease Soup, Note TOs teeecesseovee 219 Celery do, do.++++++ 219 —— Plain Pease Soup ++ 221 Parsnips ++-+++++e++ 129 Peristaltic Persuaders, p. 40. Peptic Precepts quoted, p. 40. Pea Powder «es.eseseeeee 458 Perch, Fried e+eess+eeees 159 Boiled 160 Stewed--ccsecssese 158 Pheasant 62 ——— Mock Adee eeeccceos 69 —— Criterion of its being “* assez mortifiée,” sores Pickles +o «2c ccc cvcwccie wholesome Substitute for, see Note under «+--+ Pigeons, to Roast +---+-++- —_— to Bro eoreeeeoee Pig, Sucking +++++++seee- Petit-toes, or Sucking Pig’s Feet @eeeeeecesnvecese® Piquante Vinegar --++++++ Plaice Fried Plate, how to clean +++++- Plum Pudding +++++seees Plum Pudding Sauce «+++ Poached Eggs oSyalelace eteheiie: Poor Man’s Sauce+++++*+- Do. Soup for, p. 145, and No, 229, &c. e@esevenee ees e®eere BOB BE Gee 68 462 462 78 98 56 12 453 155 482 553 269 546 310 INDEX. No. Pork, the Season for it, and the Accompaniments, &c. 49 —— to Roasta Leg +--+ 50 — to Boildo. «-++r++-+ Ai -—— Do. without the Skin ON sees eeseteserscsces 51 Mock Goose to Lambity the Leg of a Porkling, see Note to-+ 51 Griskin ++ ++seevwe - 52g —— Sparerib - Peelers oe 5S —_——. Loins +s«seee o-» 6% 9 6 5A a CHie” = % 0 0.0 ed aiele’s’) HS —— to Salt Pork-+++++++ 6 —— to boil Pickled..---- 41 how to score after you have boiled it- +--+... 11 Chops to Fry -+-+-+ 93 Sausages ++++++++-- 87 Poivrade Sauce+-+---- -»+ 365 Cold e+eseeeee eres 366 Portable Soup seereseess 259 Pot-top, best Fat for frying, Note to ++....+-. seeee 201 Liquor, p. 66. to convert into Pease Soup in five minutes--+- 555 Potatoes, 15 ways of dressing102* to re-dress Cold Pota- tOES «+ ee eeesecsevece 102 Boiled and Broiled-- 1035 Fried in Slices++-+-- 104 —— Fried whole++-++--.- 105 saw AVPASNER sols es 8 sere 106 —— Do. with Onion ---- 107 Scolloped--++ee+--+ 108 Fh ae Roasted eascoees e¢ 109 —— under Meat:.-...... 110 Balls’: ceesscecewe 111 — Savoury ececeeerese 1192 —- Snow eeeeeseeeeeee 114 ‘Gipsey Pye+-++++++* 115 —- Neweeseeecveeress 116 —— Moucilage, or Starch-- 448 — Flour, p. 362. Potted Beef, Veal, Game, "Ay Oo Medicale seit ova wayie- eele why it comes in at the same time as Mock Turtle, Note under eee eeeecee Potted Ham, &c, «+ eee-ee Poultry, to render immedi- ately ripe for Roasting, p- 72. —— Marketing Tables for, p- 443. Prawn and Shrimp Soup -- Pudding, My Plum «eesece Do. do. Sauce for ++ boiled and baked Boston Apple, p. 429. —— Spring Fruit, p. 432. — Nottinghan, p. 430. ———' Battér, By ass eee eee Newca tl ih p- 430.9 i, p. 431 431. —— Vermice! —— Bread, p. 431. — Custard, p. 431. ’ Boiled ditto, p. 451. Pudding Catsup Pulled Turkey, Chicken, Re. Punch --- Do. directly. .+--- . Essence of, N.B. to-~ Do. to make++-+--.. Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la necessité), p. 19. Pig’s Pettitoes ++ ++++--- Suet -scesssscsccce —— Yorkshire’-- -- $a Pate: een ac else © ——- Maccaroni -+++eeee Ee TACOS oie,8 fos ane than e —— Ground do..---.... — Custard eeoeteeneee | ——= Batter « sete sees ce Bread and Butter, 457 458 INDEX. | No. No. Pearson, Dr. quoted, p. 23. Rump Steak Broiled++++.. 94 Politeness, ancient rules for, Stewed -+eeesre++ 500 Note p. 27. Do. with Onion Gravy 501 Porpus, p. 34, Russian Sauce for Cold Meat 358 Pie, Jeffery Hudson served | Romans eat five Meals a day, - up.in one, p. 35. p- 36.. wa Provisions, how to procure — their touueniin Dishes, the best, p. 76 and 441. p- 36. Pepper, Obs. on, p. 122. ——— ea ag and Garum, Double-headed Boxes, p- 37... p- 83. Sack Posset, ‘Sir T. Shep- Parsnips- eeoecccreseesene 498 herd’s- cee hore se acne 467 Quin’s Sauce --¢+ee++-+++ 494 | Sage and Onion Sauce---- 300 Ditto, Obs. .on ro Salt, to. prepare fur table -- 371 Chovy’s Marriage, in Note Salt Fish «+++ sesesseees 150 tO ceceesee ceecee ceoe 433 Salting Meat-+++-+-cesee 6 Rabbit, Roast ----- coeee 67 to make it Red «+--+ 6 Boiled +e+esesseee* 47 to make it Savoury:+ 6 ~—— Broiled -++++++++- 97 to pickle Meat, p.148. Soup sceceses sees O44 Scotch Haggies +++++++«++488* a Welch «+-+++ee2++ 539 . Gravy, see.Obs, to++ 326 Ragout Beef, see Obs. to 493 and 497. Sauce---+- +++ $29 & 330 Savoury Powder +--+ 457 —— Quintessence of do.»- 460 of Poultry to dress - -530* Breast of Veal. - seers 517 Raspberry ings ar tte+s+ 390 Ww sees 469 aan 473 ys of ++ 558 ad MTD mo sin 559 Sauce core ec eve se eo GIF Roasting. See the ¢d Chap- ter of the Rudiments of Cookery, p. 94. Robert Sauce for Perk and Geesees cece vses. Roe-Boat do., see Obs. Rouge, see Obs. to ++++++ 433 Roux, see Obs. tor++++++* 257 342 Soup eececcoe ce of 206 | —— Crowdie, +++++8++++205* —— Barley Broth -++--+- 204 Leek Soup -+++e+++ 205 Salads, Evylyn’s Directions _ about «++eeseee+ 138 & 372 Dutch, Italian, French, &c. Obs. to -++++eee%4 372 Sauce ++++++ 372 & 453 | Salmon, Pickled. + +*++++ 161 —— Boiled «+s ecceer see 162 _ Broiled eereeee ccee 163 Sauce, before you make, read the 8th Chapter of Rudiments: of SRP RNY p. 132.. Sauce, Anchovy «++++es- 270 Apple eeerenePeceee 804 Basil Vinegar or Wine 397 —— .Do. when todry-+++ 461 _ Balls for Mock Turtle. 380 —— .Bechamel -- -- +*++ 364 —— Bottled.Oyster Sauce 278 —— Beef Gravy for Poultry 329 —— Do. with Mushrooms 330 - INDEX. 459 No. No. Sauce, Bonne-Bouche for a Sauce, Essence of Shallot . 402 Goose ++ e+ seeeseeees BA Esseuce of Punch -+ 479 — Bread --eresssese+ 324 Estiallot Sauce-+++++ 294 —— Browning--+-+++++++ 322 | —— Do. Vinegar -++++++ 481 —— Butter, melted-++-+++ 256 Fennel and Butter for Burnt ditto «+++++++- 260 Mackarel, &c. +++*++++ 265 — Clarified ditto +++-++ 259 Fish Sauce +++eee+- 495 —— Oiled ditto --+-+-++- 260 Forcemeat, to make++ 373 —— to Recover e*++++++* 956 | ——-—Ballsfor Mock Turtle 380 - Catsup of Mushrooms 439 | ——-— Egg Balls--++---+ 381 ——— of Walnuts »-+--+ 438 | —--— Curry do, ------- 382 Oysters serseres 44d § 3583, 384 re aaa Rockies: Rahetey si sade | FER Oe sprees sag ——— for Puddings +--+ 446 | —— for Veal -e+e-+se++ 375 —— Camp Vinegar-++*++ 403 to mix Orange or Le- -~-— Do. Wine «++esse* 405 mon Peel ec«ccccccoce « 387 —— Caper ser-eereeere 474 Gravy — for Boatity- Catsup, Cockle +--+ 442 Ragouts, &c.+++++ee+-+ 329 Celery ++ eecereeees 989 — for Game-«seeees 337 Do. Brown +++++ ++ 290 — Strong ditto, with —— Chervil -« ++ ++++++ 264 Mushrooms «+-+++++++ 330 —— Chili Vinegar ++-+++ 405 ‘Gravy for Wild Duck 338 —— Do. Catsnp++++see* 442 | ——-—+ of Onion --+.---> 299 -— Crisp Parsley +++++* 318 | ——— of Garlick -+++- - 311 Cucumber +++++++* 135 | ————= for Roasted Meat+ 326 — Curry eocecscceeees 348 | ——— for Boiled «+ +2 397 —— Egg Sauce -+++++++ 967 | ——— Wow Wow for —— Essence of Turtle -++ 343 Boiled Beef see eeees -« 328 of Ham «cesses 35 ee Veni of Mushrooms of Vinegar «e+s.+- of Oysters +--- ee Cayenne Fakislale.ns Anchovy -- ———- Lemon Peel-+...» ——— Quintessence do.-- ee Celery +++++e++e so Gingers+-seseces Allspice +++eeees Clove BOveeeerer ‘Mace Cinnamov of Soup Herbs --- — of Soup Herb, and Savoury Spice «++++++- e@eeree eeetec &c. ——— of Veal --«+eee.. Relish for Chops---- Gooseberry Sauce -.: Garlick do. Do. Gravy ++++-+:> Vinegar —_ ee eae ee eecer a -—- Herb Sauce, piquante 3 Heakes of Mtn 3 3 460 Sauce, Kelly, M. for Calf’s- head or Cow-heel eeoeee ——. Lemon, Syrup of---- Lemouade in a minute —— Lemon Sauce -+ees. . Ditto, and Liver, or Parsley and Liver Sauce Liver Sauce for Fish Lobster Sance .---.- Sauce for Lobster -+- Muscle Sauce ----+- ° Mint do. eeeoreerecanse Feeeen Do. Brown cece eeee Do. in five minutes «+ Mustard, to make «+> | | Oyster Sauce «reese Pickled do. eooceovace HTT | Onion Sauce «+--+. — Do. white, for Rab- bits, &c. oe es @C@eeeveee || — Young Onions--+-++ ¢ Fried « or Brown Onion Do. fried t+ ++ ane To. crisp ++eeeeeeee Pea Powder ---+e+:s Pickles. ose 8eseev ee Piquante Vinegar «+ Plum-pudding Sauce. EAaESareN Dio. Gold vets. stor sustelo.s - Poor Man’s Sauce -- Potatoe Mucilage see —— Ragout Sauce ++++++ Do. Sauce pigquante - -. Mackarel-roe Sauce++ ¢% Do. Vinegar ++++-++ 3 Mushroom Sauce-+++ 3 Bottled do. «++... Poivrade Sauce +*++ 3 INDEX. Do. in a minute +--+ 369 Do. to keep-++++++* 427 No. Sauce, Ragout Powder ++ 457. - Quintessence of gout Powder++++++++++-460 - Red Sauce +«+*++-+ 324 a Rice Sauce ccsccoee 391 ——. Sage and Onion Sauce 300 —— Salad Sauce------ -- 372 —— Salad Mixture -++++ 453 -——— Sauce-Superlative «++ 429 — Sauce-Box, p-74, and No. 463. Savoys. eeeerroveceesens JP) Savoury Salt Beef---+++-+ 496 Scots Gravy, see Obs. to +» 326 Collops: eee rsereeee °517* —— Minced do. p. 589. - Haggies eccwcesese AGQ* Scots Barley Broth «+++ ++ 204 Soup-herb Powder, or Vege- table Relish «++e++e++++ 459 Shallot Sauces++-++++seeee 294 Wine ee ce essevenen 402 Shrimps, Potted ++ eseees 175 — Shrimp Sauce ++ +++e++++ 283 Shrub-«s.ccceocvsssccccsee 479 Snipe Sauce e+seeecesses 340 Soda Water, Obs. on Note to-p. 42. Sorrel Sauce ++ seee+2eeee 291 Soy + ee ee rece ecoseses 456 Sprouts eer ecee seceeesne JPL Sparerib of Bacon, to Roast. 53 Spices, Obs. on, p. 365. Soup-herb and Savoury Powder cecccerreseees 460 Spirits++++ +420, 421, 422 —— Do. Sauce +++-++++ 336 Spinage «s+ seccsestecese 122 Vegetable Relish-+ ++ 459 Stock, first, Note to +*+*+* 185 ‘seconds Note to +++ 186 - Stuffing eee eae eeocvccese 373 for Hare «+ececesee 379 Goose ecscceccesees 378 ‘Turkey ¢++e+*+* 376, 377 INDEX. 461 ‘Stuffing for Veal +++++++s 374 Suet Pudding -+ ++ ++++++ 551 Syrup of Nutmeg teceeeee 304 Lemon Peel+++--+-+ 393 —— Lemon-ees++eeeere 394 ee Orange: cca veccccces 392 Stomach, an Englishman’s Cooking Kettle. Dr. Hunter’s Obs. on. Wa- terhouse do. Note, p.1. Stomach, the Machinery of Life, p. 7. Dr. Cheyne’s Obs. on. Abernethy do. p. 9. Spring Fruit, various ways of dressing, p. 433. Sprats, to Broil ----- eee 6 170* —— to Pickle --scececers 161 _—_ [0 Stew Ce Stewart, his excellent Essen- tial Oils, Note at p. 347. Store Sauces, p. xii. Obs. TERPOEODE: p-14, &c. Servants, Maia, Expeuses of, p. 16. —— The Rev. Wm. Wat- kins’ excellent Institution for the Encouragement of, p- 16. Merlin’s Contrivance to save Trouble to, p. 22. Friendly Advice to, p» o4. _—— Dallaway’s Monitor, p- 57. —— Maxinrs for, p. 58. Swan, p. 35. Seals, p. 35. Soups, under the name of the article they are made of, Soup, Obs. on, p. 116. Cheap, p. 119. Soup and Bouilli -»++++e++ 238 Vinegar +++++-+eee+ 395° No. Stewpans, p. 116, 117. Suet, to clarify, for frying, Ree mieten vin 9 wpltia cite «104 Sausages, to.fry++++++++++ 87 Sweetbread, to fry -++++-+ 88 Do. plain ceeeee esee 89 Sea Kale. «sccescecvcese 194 Soles, to boil -+++++.-+. ++ 144 to fry +++ssees core 145 to stew ++ ++ 146,158, 164 filletted. 0+ esss-006. 147 Skate, fried +¢*--++++. nce Add, Taste, the Committee of, Pref. pe. Taste, he Magazine of, p- Th. ccecccvesenseioe - 463 Taste, Oe ities of, p.59, &c. Tastes, six simple, Note, ued ike Tammis, Note to ++++++++.190 Tankard, cools+++e+ssee-- 464 Tarragon Sauce ++ ++++++++ 264 ——- Vinegar -+++-+> eee 396 Tea, toimak ee « «:0%ei0)0/s ecee 550 Tender, to make. Meat, p. 69. Tewahdiddle O°0 & € O6ca- e400 au 467 Thickening, or. Rour++++++ 257 Do. p..128. Toast and Water -- eee 6e -463* Toast and Cheese 439 Toasted Cheesi 540 Tomata Sau 2902 - Mock di des 293 Tongue, to boil ++++++++++ 15 what the “Roots are good. for, see Obs. to ++ 45 Tooth-ach,. Cure fore +++ ++. 567 Tripe +++ eeeresevcsecees 18 Trusler, Dr. his Art of Carv- ing, p- 21. —— Domestic ment,. p. 57 Truffles, Obs. on, p. 125. Tucker’s Obs. on Fish, after 182 Toshot ae seeeeeeess 140 Manage- 462 No. 512 503 513 514 516 517 517 518 521 542 523 524 INDEX. No. Turbot, to fry ++++¢e++e+ 12] Veal; excellent Hot Ragout Turkey, to boil ++ ++++-+++ 16 of Cold Veal +++++seees —— to fatten and whiten» 16 | —— Potted +«+rersseree = — Roast: » +0 se iss, sees 57 | ——~ Sweetbread fricasee- - —— Hash, &c. «++eeeee 533 | -—-— Do. do. brown++++-- —— Pulled -+++-+++++-- 534 | ——— Stewed with Bacon: - Turnips wee ner cere eeccece 130 | —-~— Breast Ragout ‘peeee —— to mash +*+.e+..++ 131 Do. with Pease, Note Turnip-tops eeetvccsesee 139 TOs sce reece ceereccere Turnip Soup ++++s+eeses+ 213 Veal Olives ++++ sess Turtle, to dress ++++++++++ 250 | —— Cutlets, broiled «+++ —-— at Albion-House, Al- —— Knuckle to Ragout: + dersgate-Street. —— Do. with Rice+.--.. —— Mock do, +++*++ 247, ae Gay’s Receipt do. «+ —— Mock mock do. ++++ 245 | Vegetables, Obs. on. See Turtle Sauce +++ +++++e+++ 343 the 5th Chapter of the — Essence: -+<«-+ eee e se 345% —— Hints to Turtle Eaters, Ohs. to «++-- 3000 pounds of, eaten at one Dinner +++ e+e. —— Morrison’s Preserved Turtle, Note, p. 277. Vauxhall Nectar, to imitate Veal, to boil ++++++seeere A, 493 250 to roast eeeeeeeeene 8383 — Fillet eer eceeeereene 54 Loin: + +cecccensece 35 _—__ Shoulder @xeeseeeoee0e 56 —-— Neck, bestend -++- 37 pa ae Basu . oe one be os eee 838 = Sweetbread pees 39 Cutlet +++ ivseuees “90 —— Do. Sauce for------ hse —— Do. full dressed - 91 —— Broth oe sceseceesc ie a Gravy eeovecccveee 199 —— Knuckle Soup -+---+ 193 —— Stuffing, Roger Fow- ler’s eeee ese e eet te eee 879 Forcemeat *+*eee+-+ 375 —— Breast Stewed--+-+- 315 —— Veal, minced -+**++ 511 Hashed +ss¢fees +> 511* Sauce’ for- 7 awesss 361 Rudiments of ‘Cookery, - 108. Vegetable Essences, to ex- tract «ec eeece ceseeces Marrow, p. 433. 417 —— Marketing Tables for, ” p. 445. Venison, to Roast-a Haunch Neck or Shoulder «+ to Hash to Venisonify Mutton the Devil’s, p. 33. Wine Sauce for +++. Sharp do. for Sweet do. «+ —— Mutton Gravy+e+--- Vermicelli Soup +++++++- Vinegar, Sauce fot Venison Burnet or Cucumber. ——' Basilescceweeccasecce 63 64 528 32 344, 345 346 347 231 545 399 397 156 Welch Rabbit -+++-.++++ 539 Wheat-ears eee »e eevcee 4 Do. Sauce for -+++++ 339 White Sauce -+++++++++++* 364 White Bait, to dress--++-- 173 uy e@eseeee 398 463 9 No. White Wine Whey -+++++ 562 Whitings, fried --+-++e+e+ 153 Widgeon and Teal-+-+«+++ 75 Wild Ducks e-+¢ee-seees 74 Wine Sauce, for Venison, &c. 344 Woodcock ececeecscscesscee 76 —— has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, Note to+*+++++.. Wow Wow Sauce for Boiled Beef --- Weights and Measures for Cookery, Table of, p. 83. Weight, the Diminution that takes place in Cooking, p- 89. Yorkshire Pudding ----. Zest +: 76 eee ee@e@eecevser 328 + 552 +4098 ¢ 00 e98 955 464 . FAREWELL TO THE READER. WE now have made, in one design, The Utile and Dulce join, And taught the poor, and men of wealth, To reconcile their tastes to Health. ‘Restrain each forward appetite, To dine with prudence and delight, And careful all our rules to follow, To masticate before they swallow. Tis thus HYGEIA guides our pen, To warn the greedy sons of men, _ To moderate their wine and meat, _ And “ eat to live, not live to eat.” _ For the rash Palate oft bestows _ Arthritic Lectures on the Toes!!! The Stomach, void of wind and bile, Shall praise our monitory style, And as he cannot speak, enlist - Himeelf as your ventriloquist— The Head, now clear from pain and vapour, Shall order*out his ink and paper; ‘And dictate praises on these rules, To govern gormandizing fools. The Legs, now fearless of the gout, As ready messengers turn out, To spread our volume far and near, . Active in gratitude sincere. While thus the Body, strong and sivid, Our constant advocate is found, And pointing to receipts delicious, Exclaims, ‘‘ who reads our new APICIUS, If he has brains may keep them cool, If a sound stomach and no fool, May keep it so, unclogged by food Indigestion’s sickly brood, — His Hunger, though oppressive, ease, His Palate, though capricious, please, And if with care he reads our Book, In theory may be a Cook; Learn the delights good rules procure us When appetite by reason’s aw’d, (ZENO alike and EPIcuRUS Pleasures combin’d with health applaud.) He who is Stomach’s master, he The noblest Empire then may boast, And at whatever Feast he be, That man alone ‘ shall rule the Roast.’” FINIS. » GREVILLE STREET, LONDON, Ws oo =f “~H . - - . - 2 \ # F ~. : ' . é / ' ~ i + 5 5 7 . ‘ =— ¢ 2 eS » - { ‘ > r “ i - = ‘ € 1 * | ‘ 4 .o) * . ‘ \ bi - + = 4 ‘ - > x - , be . = + / ‘ 7 7 ' 1 ¥ ” \ ~ z x - * 4 . , . 2 ' . 4 4 ‘ Ve . * ~ ‘ z “s & a ee a