i | i SEEN ARSE ON preErnos i OF Fass. [iW &y ae | ee H2ES Fao AccEssionn_ S493 esate inn Re i" Nu An Australian Representative WOOL THE RAW MATERIALS OF THE WOOLEN AND WORSTED INDUSTRIES STANLEY H. HART FORMERLY LECTURER ON THE RAw MATERIALS OF THE WOOL INDUSTRIES PHILADELPHIA TEXTILE SCHOOL EDITED BY d ° 7 @ rT : . evvetes fli A RPAWWARD. WERRANGE PE PTE 43 ee ee “eee e ° a -° % e e Pa ° . e e 0° ee “ee coven ce Seiece Sey : ee ee ¢ eee DIRECTOR OF THE PHILADELPHIA TEXTILE SCHOOL ec eee e eo ese8 eo fe 0 @ ° e'6'- Selanne ee e @¢ . o Se ee ee ° eceoe ee 0 ee @ eorteete + © e ee ee eee e® e e eee eet e e ee eee ee eeeseee . eee e PUBLISHED BY THE PHILADELPHIA TEXTILE SCHOOL OF THE PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL ART PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, U. §, A. 1917 SECOND EDITION REVISED BY EpwARD W. FRANCE 1924 Copyricut, 1917, sy Tue PHILADELPHIA TEXTILE SCHOOL OF THE PENNSYLVANIA MuskEuM AND ScHoot or InpustRIAL ART SEconp Eprrion REvIsED By Epwarp W. FRANCE WARE BROS. COMPANY PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS PHILADELPHIA GETTY CENTe LIBRARY TO Mr. Theodore C. Search IN GRATEFUL APPRECIATION OF HIS INTEREST IN TEXTILE EDUCATION THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR B49 3 PREFACE The following pages have been prepared for use as a text book in connection with the course of study in “The Raw Materials of the Wool Industries” at the Philadelphia Textile School. Numer- ous books on general textiles and on woolen and worsted spinning touch lightly on the raw materials of these important branches of the textile industry in a general way, but in none of them has the subject been covered in the detailed manner which its importance deserves, hence an effort is here made to follow the various raw materials of the woolen and worsted industry from their origin to the point where actual machine processing begins. Considerable information was obtained from the Report of the Tariff Board on Schedule “K” in 1912; Matthews’ ‘Textile Fibers”; Wright’s “Wool-growing and the Tariff’; and various United States government reports and pamphlets by the Animal Husbandry Division. The statistics contained in the Appendix are mostly from the Bulletins of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers. A large number of excellent photographs, generously furnished for illustration by Hon. John Bright, Canadian Live Stock Com- missioner, are highly appreciated. The sheep and goat pamphlets issued by his department, cover their subject in a thorough manner, Information of great value, including the various classified lists of sheep, was generously furnished by Mr. W. T. Ritch, the well-known Australian wool expert. Several passages were taken from the report to the Canadian Government in 1911 by Messrs. W. A. Dryden and W. T. Ritch on “The Sheep Industry in Canada, Great Britain and United States.” Mr. F. M. Jennings, at present with the Canadian Live Stock Branch and for many years Instructor in The Wool Grading and Sorting Course of the Philadelphia Textile School, furnished considerable valuable information. ix PREFACE A large portion of the introduction is from a lecture delivered before the Franklin Institute by Mr. Theodore C. Search, former President of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art. . The descriptions of various breeds of sheep were improved by reference to Dr. Carl W. Gay’s recent book, “The Principles and Practice of Judging Live Stock.” Several passages are quoted from Dr. Gay’s book, and acknowledgment of the privileges extended by the author and publisher is a pleasant duty. Thanks are also extended to the Bureau of Animal Industry of the United States Department of Agriculture; the Commercial Museum, Philadelphia; and numerous individual sheep breeders, firms, and sheep breeders’ associations, who generously furnished photographs. To Mr. Richard 8. Cox, thanks are extended for the drawings which are reproduced, The manuscript has been carefully edited by Mr. Edward W. France, Director of the Philadelphia Textile School, and thanks are extended for his co-operation and suggestions in its prepara- tion. In conclusion, it is hoped that the book may prove useful to laymen seeking knowledge of the raw materials of the woolen and worsted industries, and that it may also be of value as a reference book in educational institutions conducting textile, agricultural, commercial, industrial, and domestic art courses. PHILADELPHIA, January, 1917. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION Essentially, the second edition of Mr. Hart’s highly esteemed work on “Wool” is a reprint. However, it has appeared advis- able to make a rearrangement of certain chapters, more nearly to approximate actual sequence of thought and practice. It has also seemed fitting that certain paragraphs should be expanded, the better to present phases of the subject for the consideration of the layman, thus continuing to strive toward the original PREFACE XI goal—the making of a book of practical value. Insofar as it has been advisable and possible, tables in the appendix have been revised or replaced by others more up-to-date or more compre- hensive. Grateful acknowledgment is made for the use of two illustrations from Dr. F. H. Bowman’s work on “The Structure of the Wool Fiber,” as well as to all those who have so freely assisted in the furnishing of the material that has made the revision possible. EK. W. F. September, 1924. CONTENTS CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION AND STRUCTURE, PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS OF Woo. PARAGRAPH PAGE je aMeOM inswcecavsiur (oie) taxa. Peseta Reece MERC Una ar Prarie aay cue a hae Caan feat CMe tae iad a 1 2. Early Sheep Husbandry in Spain .......-+--eeseereereecseccces 3 3. Influence of Spanish Merinos ..........+----+eeeeer sree rete 6 4. Ancient Breeds and Original Types of Sheep .....---..-+++++-5+ i} PHYSIOLOGY. AND STRUOTURBDY .s'ecia ic) 5 © ote tac s el macm gis tl ee's 13 >to, “16 5. Physiology of the Wool Fiber .......+.-..++seeeeseereerecttees 13 6. Structure of the Wool. Fiber... ie ee eae ee eee es 14 7. Microscopy Of Wool 6 eRe ee cies tii Nin sine se Ue ie ee Bg ee 14 PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS .......--- +s sees eeeereces 16 to 28 8. Properties and Characteristics ........--++- sees estes reece 16 9, -Bimeness or Diameter of . aSotiness® andr La ality, is seed & skecaee trenaletetle wunletled ters (oh araua lela Mysie se ete 20 j HENRY a vs ee ew eb oe ime Cy Spc eye ie, lle CRE with SiO PEPE EP: Pte here eee SET ORE ea 21 1 ES eee BL os oo eee SEH ees ie pe ed ea ria oR er Prt ac Arie PL OEE ACRE CE Rte gh nORe 21 16. --Felting and Shrinking 0.5.) 0.6. oa oe bee eee tae 22 Vid. Wawiness end: CLE ef kiwis scents gle wins oi wie 'b ge Utes blew oes 23 1c Working Properties: ko ae eis ek deh Core age ag 23 10e -Kemipy: Wk i. clea eae ie a a yea int lo eg We 24 20 (Ohemsacal Com POsib Owe sy vse cht wie ata wien, of ytd ni ee rag aude gis Mew) ene uty 24 Dee ACEO Od nk CLUS STG: ADR AMITOR) soc cy din his elec tus Ho ecausdthe nig tke thane aston eimid=\s 25 DR ES GHC III a eit eITEN H4. Neath pster kaos Fo whole ol ees Med ho Nuehaelophsger sah aiseie’ e $a 25 As: PPO ok ace eR CE eee dee OPES op ANMale fax aa eas wR A te mee 25 Pen AGATE ES ELD ete ae aay cone ee NTIS, Soh) ar pea eee Shcee teeta ts Cots wastes 25 25.) Conductor oi teat. and: BlECtriciiy: vc. eicstettca sie Sp ote a oars supe Spee s 26 Bor: GTeAne alld POLOISN MALLET uses sce arelehe esse ace Sine gos! eka a 26 D7 Methods Ob ReMOVING WAPCABe Ce wait oe tesce meses oe ele eg eke we gear ders 27 GR 0 WAT Gar eee ca EN, So OTL ata eles Bi Ae ee a PO cables plans paket eng ane ste 27 DURE CAE yates icone tse = Feely Ae re Meer ca yy ry etal tes, er Cpkae Aer RE rs Sa rh ig Zi. 30. > Mowelre OF Eby OTOSGODIC: QUAND Ye Foc. jope 0s a oye ee stars, ene ele cueks yee a4 27 CHAPTER II CLASSES OF FLEECE WooL Pi wma BY Sse y ites h LOS Seana, er ee emcee Cee 2a ene natin ed ttn ae PURER Anarene 29 32) (Carding rang OoOmorm oe VOUS) jr elas trea ny peta Flees Martie iain e atqialee es 29 335° (Olde Classica elOngy rhs ear spsts en ons'= aves PUA peg nieee nr at eae a Nay Se 30 LS, Source of Rage Supply» i... tke um 2 0 es ieia Cardi datas ats ete eee gong 187 Re aaah peas Ley tape a ener en et eer tea tak te ten were Ne 188 MG. MENS T AG AVVO bath. Total ie cdit ie Une ahr ons (Sy Waal saan ohereha.e See senor ated niles enatate const 188 NG 7h Mamet “GChUOtACIONS sLOT RAGS. S.A ra ocalecxtovets! oUake' 6s eho a shsimpaieke opie sce/0 189 168. Market Quotations for Shoddy, Mungo and Extract Wool ........ 189 GO: 5:2 HERON the Puck oO TUNE Sn ow lesaree We hee eva rere ote es eunPh Te Mts atone ane lela) gales 190 CHAPTER JX Fapric REQUIREMENTS AND HISTORICAL SYNOPSIS 170. Wools Required for Various High-Grade Established Fabrics...... 191 171. Historical Synopsis of the Wool-Growing Industry in the United SBC lc vere S a ieahcr tes ete aes car nan aaa tae carla raderiaeh) ccs lellalinvens co hav tnet ai 192 172. Economic Necessity for a Greater Sheep Industry in the United PURE ae Maratea ils Niele swt Citar cacti vargoa eae’ at ele nth mee a tale Going sto oats 200 APPENDIX SraTISTICS TABLE PAGE A. Importation and Production of Fleece and Pulled Wool in United Gites sel OLS LO aa rae alice che One Lee hous Bee © elaterereantn se gates nytt eha east 207 B. United States Wool Imports Showing Country of Production, Fis- Cale Near mde ro Oil ORG tee ire. cialsrorsyeteneys tree euelbe = hn! ale ane odoyece fo ec hetodes 207 C. Carpet Wools Imported by the United States, Fiscal Year Ended VS sees Sune 0! PE ee oh ser, ah ARE MR ery AOR rire PPR Sic CRC ara IC 207 D. Imports of River Platte Wool into the United States, 1915-1923.. 208 E. Wool Imported into Boston, New York and Philadelphia by Ports and Classes, Fiscal Year 1922-1923 2.0.0... 060... ccc ee eee eens 208 F. Imports by Grand Divisions, Fiscal Year Ended June 30, 1923.... 208 G. Graphie Chart of Woolen and Worsted Industries ............-. 209 Ee Wool: Product: of thevUnited: States: TODS. 3.5 apres wie ssn edcerste # Se el 210 I. Distribution of United States Sheep by State Groups ........... 212 XViii TABLE J. K, CONTENTS United States Sheep Records by Decades Relative Standing by Leading Wool-Producing States, Arranged According to Number of Sheep, 1900, 1910 and 1920 Comparative Chart of United States Wool and Sheep Statistics, 1901-1920 Wool Production of the World According to the Latest Available Reports and Estimates Comparative Price of Domestic Wools in Boston, October, 1913-1923 Production of Raw Wool in Principal Wool-Producing Countries, Number of Sheep in the World According to the Latest Available Reports and Estimates, 1923 Distribution of Sheep at Close of Year in Australia, 1923 Number of Wooled Sheep in South Africa at Close of Year, 1923.. Estimated Number of Sheep and Lambs in Canada by Provinces, 1922-1923 Estimated Number of Sheep and the Production and Value of Canadian Wool Clip, 1915-1923 MISCELLANEOUS Score Card for Sheep Score Card for Mutton Sheep Directions for Caring for Sheep in Order to Produce a Good Quality and Condition of Wool An Old Shepherd’s Don’ts Directions for Preparing and Packing Wool Typical Market Quotations for. Wool and Mohair Mohair Production Typical Market Quotations on Noils, Wastes, Clips, Rags and Reworked Wool Garnetted Yarn Waste, Rags, Shoddy, Mungo, Extract Wool and Flocks Imports of Noils, Wastes, Wool Rags, Flocks and Mungo by Months. Fiscal Year Ended June 30, 1923 Glossary of Terms Used LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS An Australian Representative ........--..+seeereeeereerrenes Frontispiece FIG. PAGE 1. Flock of Sheep, New South Wales, Australia .........-:-++++55> 4 2. Australian Merino Ewes in Saltbush, New South Wales ........-- 8 3. Section of Skin (25 Diameters) .......0.-cccscreseee cr ecreneens 13 4. Diagram Showing Structure of Wool Fiber .......-------++ts++0> 14 5. Typical Wool Fiber (250 Diameters) .......----+ sees eereetee 15 6. Contrast Between Crimp and Waviness .....-.-++-++s+esereerree 23 7. Tops of Different Lengths ........... 06. seers e tert n ees 30 8. Combing and Clothing Wools ........... 00.5. :es eden teen see ee ns 31 9; “Delaine Merinos, Class ©. ix fen ne ie ial el 2k a en seins a eraly wt 33 10.) “American -Merino Ewe, ‘Class’ Av. os... 02 0s ei id eas else gee ene 34 Ldee Rambouillet: Ram, Class: is ss ives nes pete gens ent ayeiecarery swore ge etwcn on tie 35 12. Wanganella Merino Stud Rams, Australia ......--.....++s5ese0e) 37 13: 2 Tender: Wool; Showing Break. 2.20. 60 c ee 2 hie es ate lerg es eee 8 38 LAS REO WS YE VWOOL oo't/s otecseaits tas Pegae stern tou alae raleipea ete ygicas tneutuelionel, uamaaer Saath ayy 40 15. Points of Sheep (Gay: Principles and Practice of Judging Live Seay a eat ie Pal i EW co) eA ny a MR By GOR oiinar ac NES PS, eS a 45 LGs Lmeoly Shearling elation! series oe sence Be ¥ vickc stein vo as dle ahavevel since ileal ar 5] 17.. Border Leicester Shearling Ram .........-...- see eee eer eeerteees 52 153 PCE Ore Lea een Seed eae Fr at con age To calie bh ng reste lec ech [eligi newie fas wOW@, ether geet panied is 53 19: Romney Marah: Raa: oii eci sie eee ie pos Fe Sag al hss Ve se ss 54 Os TEGO WEE UR, Aas Rite olen dGHe eats “Seana ee seus va; iietarss Uebel anaenaie nae Medias Seal ak ee), De) SOUGACO WIS AG RE BS DUPER. oie lost ti tls vale. ec ig: Sornda eabqabe es eosipapere: 9s bias 56 25.” Ghropen ine PRAwe 6i 0o6 ok on aes ae ke sarees emer Ene nye Ae 57 25). MUMITMIIE BIW sigh Sve g co 829 oan o arme s » eye me gM nas bee Paracas wom ED 58 2 PR Gnesi oft Cael gt: 01 Oe ge Meare veeRe caer oy. ABS ONE or neon SLT oy MPM OR is, NaN Bac SPT MER . 69 Di ADOLACR ELON MATE fey wih es 9e 8 Sovran totais oho sells nasi wo Tea car gee hay pon ameseta tas (eta 60 26: Dorset Ror: VGA ose. oi setae hace eg, CUA TIRE tenet ae a eee ose ter 61 Bia MOON OU UMBNTAE © 2 screens ty ons ae ignsitat amano lt tal unt te Toy oncaeeoa el gis cate eube na Cae ee a 62 28. Graphic Chart Illustrating Systematic Crossbreeding ............ 65 29. Diagrams Illustrating Fleeces Produced by Crossbreeding ...... 67, 68 SOS HANG TIVE MeC Wu OL SUDO. cite veal Girniolh tone tis ads fasp2 et Wests the Go ate na lo a eele. Ge 69 31. Map of World Showing Source of Carpet Wools ................ 70 Joe OORTICORLG CEP: cen sateen taht) Bhoaet Sah aiite te fal Andi ahs eee uaphs Weg ighe te 'ccgunlires Cente 73 S35 Repaid LU 5 Ct BS 4h 1 RE RU Otten Sia ed eee ei ewe ee SIS REA Bem Arai tcrra are I 75 B42 WANOY. SIR INOR WAb LO LIWER) * six sia gagttressiae siete scan Coastal Worse inks pvaig “aap chats 76 SOs IMEEM MUA TMLD ya, 'ahf ub apcintese' toi dy gbasibale s tuvagtgttseee evar cheer tise tei e8e 78 36. Australian Merino Ram, Showing Method of Examining Fleece on LICE) OM itd of Re aay El ie ee NETL RRL ME PLA OE ae ORM oc reP ant Sra Pann 79 37. Shearing Sheep with Hand Clippers near Auckland, New Zealand.. 81 Sorc Machine Shearing im. VWy.OMEn eV eters 24'-et is escecda hier eos 82 acnrc#&koaca an wm C a uo or S 2 9 co SO p= ~I S Py ~I — CS i OT te es Mie ML Mien Biba | 0 S io 2) no Jt wonw = or ~ Ss ~I aD orp wb eae at LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. New Shearing Sheds and Range, Bitter Creek, Wyoming Sheep Entering the Sweat Pens, Bitter Creek, Wyoming Model “Australian” Shearing Plant, Walcott, Wyoming Sheds, Stalls and Pens Leading into Shearing Room, Walcott, Wyoming Baling Rooms, Showing Skirting Tables and Shearing Board, Wal- cott, Wyoming Defective Cloth, Due to Presence of Sisal American Wool Packed in Old Sacks and Poorly Sewed American Wool on Display in Original Bag Wool Warehouse, Lima, Peru Australian Wool, Skirted, Classed and Baled on Display at Boston Wool Teams on the Road, New South Wales, Australia Arrival of Wool Train, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia Dalgety’s Show Sales Room, Melbourne, Australia Display of Wool Sale, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia Grading Fleeces at Warehouse Graded Wool Ready for Sale Fibers of Lincoln Wool Illustrating the Many Sorts Sorting Wool Skirting Fleeces at Shearing Australia Location of Location of Sorts, Same as Fig. 59, with Fleece Spread Main Sorts in Three-eighths Crossbred Fleece Main Sorts in Corriedale Fleece XX Combing Wool Half Blood Combing Wool Three-eighths Blood Combing Wool Quarter Blood Combing Wool Common Combing Wool Braid Wool Range Scene, Wyoming Wool Scouring Machinery The Source of Pulled Wools, Sheep Slaughter House, Canterbury, New Zealand Pulling Room Angora Buck and Doe Shearing Angora Goats Alpaca Group of Camels in the Nan Kov Pass, Great Wall, China Worsted Products Types of Wool Rags and Substitutes Sheep Ranch in Lake Basin, near Billings, Montana LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxi PAGE Ewes and Lambs on the Range, Canada ..-...--.-++-+eeerertees 197 Map of World—Geographic Distribution of Sheep and Sources of WAT LN aie ere eke OSs re hit cor ariel ictoara. cite sasha ata Nene tene feretarecearen tal nate aiSuaerers 216 Sheep Dipping at Jondaryan, West Queensland, Australia ........ 223 RFT gcc Sk aE a asiaes pha Une. anol shih sudhy ooa atiestiees sop iag tAlcol than oN Meares gan heehee ie - 227 evith TRAM. 25 oo ice g 2 a sooo hobo ON ninja bien Tals Varela ae Daleaeay Rene as 228 231 Map of Australia and New Zealand ........--..---++-+- aiistotat waka he WOOL WOOL The Raw Materials of the Woolen and Worsted Industries CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION.—STRUCTURE, PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS OF WOOL 1, Introduction.—With the exception of the tropics, the world has always been wholly or partly dependent on wool for its cloth- ing. Wool is the thick, wavy covering of the sheep. The sheep has always been one of the most valuable animals to mankind, furnishing both food and clothing. Breeding was originally directed to improve the fineness and weight of the fleece. Merinos were used for this purpose, but such types develop small carcasses and meat of poor quality. Demand for mutton, and the lack of profit in raising sheep only for their wool, has caused the cross- breeding of many types to suit environment and fancy, but with the object in view of founding the best type to give the greatest financial return to the sheep grower, These efforts have been suc- cessful, and the bulk of the sheep now bred, especially in the United States, are good mutton sheep first, with the quality of the wool produced a second consideration. With the high prices of wool since August, 1914, caused by the European War, breed- ing to improve the wool has received a great stimulus, especially in this country. Aside from its other valuable properties, which will be con- sidered directly, the chief value of wool lies in its ability to be spun into yarn. Other animals produce valuable textile fibers, a few of which are the goat, alpaca and camel, but for general purposes the fiber is not nearly so useful to mankind as the wool of the sheep. The character of fiber produced in most cases is not adapted to the many uses of wool, and furthermore, the number of animals producing such fibers is inadequate for the world’s demands, and in many instances, only a small portion of the 2 WOOL world is adapted to the successful raising of these animals. It must be remembered that sheep are found, and in all civilized countries cultivated, in practically every inhabitable portion of the world. Nearly all animals have a coat of hair covering their bodies, and the dressed pelts with the hair or fur attached are of great value and use in the form of coats, muffs, neckpieces, gloves, robes, trimmings, etc., but these same fibers are of small value as a raw material for textiles, as they do not possess spinning properties. It is a curious fact that the history of sheep is closely linked with that of man and the evolution of the one is involved in as deep and impenetrable mystery as the other. Whether the domestic sheep that roams our hills today has descended from the wild goat, or whether it is simply “sui generis,” is a question which probably will never be decided. Naturalists are far from certain on the question, although for want of a determined theory, they have agreed that the Ovis Ammon, or Moufflon of Southern Europe and Northern Africa, were the progenitors of the Ovis Aries, or domestic sheep. This statement is the one generally accepted. It is a significant fact, however, that while all the varieties of domestic sheep known today present striking resem- blances to each other, yet they have few if any characteristics in common with the Ovis Ammon or Argali of Asia and America, or Ovis Musmon or Moufflon of Southern Europe and Northern Africa. As the wool of the Merino sheep has become an important element in the fabrics of the civilized world, it may be interest- ing and instructive to trace the history of these animals. While it is true that they are native of Spain, yet it is an historical fact - that they were greatly improved by crossing with Italian sheep which were brought into Spain during the reign of the Emperor Claudius by an Italian named Columella. He removed from Tarentin in Italy to the southern part of Spain, bringing with him the first flock of these Italian sheep. When Rome was in her glory, Pliny states that the sheep of Apulia, on the Bay of Naples, produced the best wool in the INTRODUCTION AND PROPERTIES 3 world, while the wool of the Grecian sheep was second best, and that of the Milesians, an Asiatic race, was inferior to either of the others. The Apulian or, as it was afterward called, the Tarentine sheep, produced a wool unequaled in its day. From birth, the sheep were given the most extravagant and finical care. To produce an exquisitely beautiful and wavy gloss to the wool, their bodies were protected by skins or other coverings. In order to examine the condition of the animal, it was frequently uncov- ered, the fleece drawn out, parted, and combed, to prevent mat- ting, while it was frequently moistened with the finest oil and even with wine, and washed three or four times a year. The greatest care was bestowed on the sheep houses, constant washing and fumigation being considered imperative. When two years old, lambs were killed, it being thought that the fleece was then in its finest condition. This shows what extraordinary and pains- taking care was taken to produce clothing for the wealthy and refined Roman. With the advent of cotton and silk, however, better adapted as they were for clothing in sunny Italy, we find the Italians gradually neglecting their sheep, until finally they become more valuable for food than for wool. It was from this carefully nurtured Apulian sheep that Colu- mella selected the animals that he carried to Spain, subsequently crossing them with the native Spanish sheep, thus establishing a new variety, known today as Spanish Merinos. 2. Early Sheep Husbandry in Spain—In A. D. 711, the Saracens established themselves in Spain. They were a prosper- ous people, living in barbaric splendor and reveling in luxuries unknown to the greater part of Europe. Among the industries which their extravagant living fostered was woolen manufac- turing, which increased to such an extent that in the thirteenth century there were in the small town of Seville no fewer than sixteen thousand looms. Fic. 8.—Combing and Clothing Wools. 32 WOOL showing a fair percentage of ‘Merino blood. The second class included the various British breeds, such as the Southdown, Shropshire, Dorset Horn, Oxford Down, Yorkshire, Hampshire, Cheviot, Leicester, Lincoln and Cotswold. None of these wools were less than 5 or 6 inches in length. The carpet wools included all wools inferior to those placed in the first and second classes, and, as the name signifies, they were used in the manufacture of carpets. These carpet wools vary widely in fineness, length, strength, color and working properties. Most of this wool comes from native uncultivated sheep of semi-civilized parts of the world, such as China, Turkey, Persia, Arabia, Asia Minor, Turkestan, Russia, the Balkan States, India, the East Indies and Northern Africa. Another source of supply for carpet wools is the lowesi sorts from the fleeces of the first two classes. Certain grades of carpet wools are also known in the trade as “colorado” wool. 34. Merino Types.—The Spanish Merino sheep was the original Merino, and the foundation of the various types of Merino sheep now found in the principal wool-growing countries of the world. Owing to changes in climate and soil, the original Merino from Spain developed into other distinctive types. These changes in type have also been brought about by breeding the full-blooded Merino sheep with British and native breeds. The principal Merino breeds of today are the Spanish, Rambouillet or French, Saxony, Silesian, Australian, American, South American and Cape of Good Hope or South African. The American Merino has been bred from the French more than the Spanish Merino, so that the body of the sheep is larger than the latter and the mutton improved. Merino sheep are usually bred and raised for the quality and value of their wool, mutton being an after consideration. In the first part of the nine- teenth century, American Merinos were bred from the Spanish stock. The type developed many folds and wrinkles of flesh on the body, which increased the fiber-bearing surface. The fleeces of such sheep often amounted to 20 per cent. of the total weight of the live sheep. With the introduction of machine shearing CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 33 and the increasing importance of mutton as a factor in sheep growing, this type became unpopular, and the breeders took up the French Merino. This new type of American Merino is com- paratively free from wrinkles, and the sheep are much larger and heavier. Merino sheep are strong and hardy, and quickly adapt themselves to changing environments. Fig. 9.—Delaine Merinos, Class C. Merino sheep are divided into three groups, A, B and C, on the basis of the presence or lack of wrinkles and folds. Class A contains the Merinos with heavy wrinkles and folds. The ex- treme American type of Merino and the Spanish Merino are the leading members of this class. Class B shows only afew folds about the neck and brisket, and sometimessthe thighs. The Rambouillet and improved American Merinos»belgng to this class. Class C shows a smooth skin, except for a suggestion of wrinkles at the neck. The Delaine Merinos belong to Class C, which also includes some of the Rambouillets. 34 WOOL The American Merino is now the smallest of the Merino family, which is the smallest type group of all the various breeds. Ameri- can Merino rams run from 100 to 175 pounds, and ewes from 80 to 100 pounds. The sex terms for sheep are ram, a male sheep for breeding; wether, a castrated male sheep; ewe, female sheep, and lambs, young sheep. The Rambouillet is much larger, having a better mutton form, yet retaining the fine wool. .Rambouillet rams average 175 pounds, and ewes run from 140 to 160 pounds. All the Merinos are completely wooled from nose to foot. The head of the American is smaller than the French. Rams of both types usually have spiral horns and the ewes have none. The fleeces are heavy shrinking, very dense and fine, the staple usually running from 2 to 3 inches. American Merino fleeces on account of the folds shear from 12 to 20 pounds, while the Rambouillet yields from 10 to 15 pounds. The Merino fleeces contain so much yolk that they soil badly on the surface. This is known as the “black-topped” effect. Fie. 10.—American Merino Ewe, Class A. CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 35 Fie. 11.—Rambouillet Ram, Class B. Merino wools are the most valuable wools produced in large quantity in the world. It is estimated that the quantity of fine wools grown, coming under the Merino classification, only repre- sents 25 per cent. of the world’s wool production, and the tend- ency is continuous toward “mutton sheep.” Merino wools are noted for their softness, fineness, strength, elasticity, and espe- cially desired for their superior drawing, spinning and felting properties. For spinning the finest woolen and worsted yarns, Merino wools are an absolute necessity. Flannels and knit goods of high quality, suiting and dress goods of fine texture, face- finished fabrics such as broadcloths, billiard cloths, doeskins, meltons, uniform cloths, ete., are dependent on Merino stock, as no other wool would give the required appearance, handle, finish and character which distinguishes each of these fabrics, and in many cases no other wool could be spun to the required yarn sizes. 36 "WOOL Australia now supplies the greatest quantity of Merino wool for the market. South Africa and South America follow in the order named. The River Platte district in South America is a great wool growing region, and takes in Northern Argentine and Uruguay. Australia, South America and South Africa manu- facture but a fraction of the wool produced, the great bulk being shipped to, _ European markets, the most important of. which is London. Thé United States only grows about one-half of the wool needed for manufactures each year. 35. Complete List of Merino Breeds. SPANISH. RUSSIAN. Estantantes Dronski Chunah Siberian Escurial Transhumantes SCANDINAVIAN. Leonese Swedish Negretti Danish Guadaloupe Paulor East INDIAN. Infantado FRENCH. Kashmir Ramvouiet oes (x tke ey A 2 Det Eh batt aR ARSE Ae Dishley-Merino Soissonais AMERICAN, ITALIAN. AUSTRALIAN. Sardinian Tasmanian Sicilian Wanganella Bungaree GERMAN. Hanovarian A—Popule ds, i Prussian opular breeds, improved types, large flocks, AUSTRIAN. B—Old breeds still kept in large Hungarian flocks. Silesian C—Very old breeds, almost extinct. POPULAR BREEDS OF MERINO SHEEP, WELL KNOWN IN THE WOOL TRADE Tasmanian. Spanish (Negretti). Wanganella. Vermont. Bungaree. Franco-American. Saxony. Hungarian. Silesian. Italian (Improved Sardinian). Delaine. Hanovarian. French or Rambouillet. Russian (Improved Dronski). Dishley (French). East Indian (Nepal). CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL od Fie. 12.—Wanganella Merino Stud Rams, Australia. 36. Characteristics of Various Merino Wools.—Saxony, Silesian, Spanish and French Merino wools are all grown in Continental Europe, and the great bulk is manufactured into textiles in the countries where the wool is grown. Very little of this wool ever enters the open market, and none is imported by the United States. These European Merino wools are noted for their fine- ness, the major portion of them are worked on the woolen system, The length of fiber is usually under 2.5 inches. Australian Merino wool is especially suited for making worsted yarns on the French or,English (Bradford) systems, as it ranges from 2 inches to 5 inches in length. Another valuable feature of Australian Merino wool is the good white obtained by scour- ing. Cape Merino wool is also noted for its snowy whiteness when scoured, and is very deficient in felting properties. The wools grown in New Zealand and Tasmania are always included under the head of Australian wools unless a distinction is spe- cifically made. South African and South American Merino wools average in length from 2 to 3 inches and from 2 to 4 inches, respectively. The South American imported by this country is usually spun into worsted-yarn on the English system. It is considerably weaker than the other Merino wools mentioned, and has a tendency to be harsh and wiry. It is inferior to the 38 WOOL others in drawing, spinning and felting properties, and possesses considerable luster. One of its drawbacks is the fact that the fleeces pick up a tenacious spiral burr, which grows on the ranges, and parts of these burrs often carry through the manufacturing processes, and show up in the yarn and finished fabric. Naturally this is a detriment. 37. Merino Wools of the United States—American Merino wools, with one small class excepted, are divided into two classes, “domestic” and “territory.” The domestic Merino wools are those grown in the Eastern and Central States. The principal States ‘growing domestic Merino wools are Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, New York, Michigan, Vermont and Indiana. The most important section is the Ohio River Valley, and comprises Ohio, southwestern Pennsylvania and the eastern part of West Virginia. These fine wools compare favorably with any in the Fie. 13.—Tender Wool Showing Break. CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 39 world, and are fully equal to the finest Australian. They are unusually sound and strong, and are the most valuable American wools. | The domestic wools are as a rule almost entirely free from burrs and dirt.) The shrinkage represents the actual grease and suint, and is very uniform. Special attention is given to breeding, the sheep being housed and given every possible atten- tion. In addition to the term “domestic,” these wools are also known as “eastern,” “fleece,” “farm,” and “native” wools. The length of these domestic Merino wools varies from 2 to 5 inches. Three inches and over, in Merino wools from the Ohio Valley, are known as “delaine” wools (see glossary), and are obtained by careful selection in breeding. The Delaine Merino sheep are between the American and Rambouillet for size. Rams weigh from 140 to 200 pounds, and ewes from 100 to 150 pounds. The fleece is lighter shrinking than the other two types just mentioned, and the weight runs from 9 to 18 pounds. The length of fiber in Delaine wools makes them especially adapted for worsted yarns. The term ‘‘delaine” is often applied to all “domes- tic’ Merino combing wools grown in this country. Territory combing wools are usually known as “staple.” 38. Territory Wools—The territory wools, also known as “western” and “range” wools, are those grown in the States of Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. Most of the wool produced in Washington, Ore- gon and the Dakotas is classed as territory wool. At one time all wools grown west of the Missouri River were classed as terri- tory wools. The name “territory” was given to these wools be- cause they were grown in the western part of the country which had not been admitted to statehood. The term “ordinary” is sometimes used for “clothing” or “carding” territory wools. It will be noticed that the States named comprise the Rocky Moun- tain Plateau. The sheep producing territory wools graze over the open ranges and are very hardy. They seldom receive any housing or protection from winter storms and blizzards, and are rarely furnished with fodder. The cold winters cause the sheep Fie. 14.—Frowsy Wool. to grow heavy fleeces. In summer, the flocks often suffer through long droughts, causing a scarcity of water, and poor pasturage. At its best, the grass is never so plentiful or rich in this region as in other parts of the country. Tenacious burrs abound in the greater part of the ranges, and become entangled in the fleeces. The burr picking machine is frequently unable to remove these burrs from the grease wool, and this necessitates the use of the sarbonizing process later, to remove the burrs. The soil on most of these western ranges is sandy and alkaline. The nature of the soil, sickness due to insufficient nourishment at various times, and exposure, weaken the wool in the fleeces of these sheep, and at its best, territory wool never equals similar domestic wool. Most of this territory wool runs from 1.5 to 3 inches in length. The fiber is fine, but weak, tender and harsh. The territory wools have a very high shrinkage, due to the large quantity of sand, which adheres to the yolk in the fleece, CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 41 39. Influence of Farming in the West.—Territory wools are the greatest factor in the wool production of the United States, but the supply is gradually decreasing, due to the encroachment of farms, which are slowly taking over the ranges in this, the last stronghold of the old-time sheep grower. As the ranges come into demand for farming purposes, the land is too valuable to hold for sheep grazing, and with the development of irrigation and intensified cultivation of the soil, the bulk of the wool- erowing industry of this section will probably become incidental to farming in the same manner as in the older parts of the country. This is an unfortunate condition, as the United States at present only grows a trifle less than half the quantity of wool consumed in its textile establishments. With the ever-increasing population of the world and the consequent decrease in the world’s wool pro- duction, the time does not appear relatively far distant when there will be a real scarcity of wool, and unadulterated woolen and worsted clothing will be too expensive for many people in poor circumstances. +. r .¥ hea Fic. 19.—Romney Marsh Ram. 50. Cotswold.—This breed takes its name from the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestershire, England. Cotswold sheep closely re- semble the Lincoln in many ways. The head is carried high, and grows a heavy forelock, which falls over the face and eyes. The ears and face are covered‘ with white or grayish white hair. The weight ranges from 200 pounds to 250. The fleece, evenly dis- tributed all over the body, is divided into locks, and is open and wavy. The weight of the fleeces is from 15 to 18 pounds. From 10 to 15 inches in length is the average range of Cotswold wool. The Cotswold is much more numerous in the United States than the Lincoln and Leicester breeds, but its principal use outside of England is for crossbreeding purposes. 51. Romney.—There are two divisions of the Romney breed, Romney Marsh and Romney Upland. The Marsh is the most popular. This breed is native to Kent County, England, and as the city of London is right at hand, it is easy to account for this CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 55 breed being sought particularly for its mutton qualities. The conformation and wool closely resemble the Lincoln, although the wool is usually finer, Outside of England, the Romney sheep are popular in New Zealand and Argentina for crossbreeding. 52. Roscommon.—This breed is confined to Ireland, and the bulk of the sheep of the Emerald Isle belong to it. The breed is more widely known as “Irish,” and is a good mutton sheep, grow- ing a long, strong, coarse, luster wool. 53. Description of Important Medium Wool Breeds.—The “down” breeds furnish the bulk of the British medium wools. The most important are the Southdown, Shropshire, Hampshire, Oxford and Dorset Horn. The Southdown is named from a range of low, chalky hills, where grass is always green and luscious, known as the “Southdowns” in Southern England. The others are named from the counties in which the breeds: were developed. Fie. 20.—Southdown Ewe. WOOL Fie. 21.—Southdowns at Pasturage. These down breeds are noted for their mutton qualities, and there are no great distinctions in type. The wool is much finer than that of the long wool breeds previously described. It is also much softer, with good crimp, strength and elasticity. At one time down wools were only used on the woolen system, but the improved combing machinery has made them all available for worsteds. The down breeds are the most popular in England, and have found favor in all the important wool-growing coun- tries. Down wools grade from 1% to % blood. The usual length ranges from 3 to 5 inches. In the United States, the Shropshire, Oxford and Hampshire are the favored British breeds. 54. Southdown.—This is the smallest of the down breeds, rams averaging 175 pounds and ewes 135 pounds. The Southdown is the oldest, best known and purest breed of this type, the other down breeds being developed from it by improving with such larger breeds as the Leicester, Lincoln and Cotswold. It possesses the most compact, broadest, deepest, lowest down and most thickly fleshed form of any sheep. The head is unusually short, wide between the eyes, and rather fine. ‘The ears are short, small, CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 57 pointed, and covered on the outside with little tufts of wool. Below the eyes, the face is without wool, and is covered with brownish, gray hair. The cheeks and forehead are well covered with wool. The legs are covered with brownish gray hair like the face. The Southern fleece is very dense and light shrinking, erading 14 and % blood. The fleeces weigh from 6 to 8 pounds. | am The wool is short and evenly distributed. 55. Shropshire—This has only been recognized as a distinct breed since about 1860, but it has come into strong favor. It was evolved by using Southdown rams on native ewes of Shrop- shire and Staffordshire. The Shropshire is a very popular breed in this country, and thrives well in nearly all sections. It is considerably larger than the Southdown, being intermediate in size, rams weighing 225 pounds and ewes from 150 to 160 pounds. The fleece is evenly distributed, weighing from 8 to 12 pounds. The fleeces are liable to grow black or brown spots of wool, espe- Fie, 22,—Shropshire Ram. Fic. 23.—Hampshire Ewe. cially around the head. The head is carried high and very alert. The general carriage and appearance of the sheep are best described as stylish, An unusual feature found in this breed is the covering of the legs with wool. The head is completely covered with wool, except the tip of the nose, which is covered with heavy dark brown hair. The ears are stubby, yet pointed, and covered with fine tufts of wool. 56. Hampshire——The Hampshire is one of the oldest and largest of the mutton breeds, and is found in large numbers in the United States. Rams weigh 250 pounds and ewes 185 to 195 pounds. This breed is noted for the quick growth of its lambs. Hampshire sheep are characterized by a large head, Roman nose, large ears extending straight out, dark brown or black hair on face and ears, and wooled on the forehead and cheeks. They are big boned, especially in the head and legs. The fleece is one of CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 59 the poorest of the down wools, running light, open, uneven and short. The wool grades with Southdown for fineness. 57. Oxford.—About 1830 the Oxford breed was established, and it is the result of a Hampshire-Cotswold cross. The Oxford is the extreme mutton type, the back and hind quarters are unusually heavy. It is the heaviest of the down breeds, rams weighing from 250 to 350 pounds and ewes from 180 to 275 pounds. The Oxford resembles the Shropshire to a considerable extent. The head is wooled only to the line between the eyes, and is longer than the Shropshire wool. The face is covered with grayish brown hair. One of the most noticeable differences is the covering of the ears and legs with brown hair instead of wool. . The ears are also longer and finer than those of the Shropshire, but are carried in the same alert manner. The fleeces are the heaviest, longest and coarsest of the down breeds, weighing from Fic. 24.—Oxford Ram. WOOL Fie. 25.—Dorset Horn Ram. 9 to 13 pounds. The Oxford is continually gaining favor in this country. 58. Dorset Horn.—This breed has received much prominence in recent years, owing to its adaptability for breeding so-called “hot house” or winter lambs. The breed has proven its ability to readily change its lambing season to suit the desires of the sheep breeder, and for this reason they are in good demand for breeding lambs ready for the market in the late winter from Christmas to spring. They are also very prolific. Naturally it is most profitable to keep these sheep in fair proximity to good- sized cities, both for shipping convenience and opportunity for the owner to keep in close touch with the demands of the market for his lambs. The Dorset Horn is intermediate in size, rams averaging 250 pounds and ewes 160 pounds. As the name signi- fies, the breed has prominent horns, which are formed in a close spiral curving forward. The head grows a wool foretop, with a Q S Land ox} _ a0 =| cos Led 3s o va =| ol i » dvd m tod ° 1 Ne) Nn ic) =) By WOOL Fic. 27.—Cheviot Ram. the face and ears covered with fine white hair. The wool is short and light shrinking, grading in fineness about halfway between the Southdown and the Oxford. The fleeces are light, averaging from 6 to 7 pounds. The fleeces also run uneven and are bare on the belly. 59. Cheviot.—The Cheviot sheep are natives of the Cheviot Hills of southern Scotland. They are of medium size, rams average 200 pounds and ewes.150 pounds. They furnish high- grade mutton. The wool grown has a harsh, wiry feel, which gives the distinguishing character to the best grades of Scotch and English ‘“‘cheviot’’ suitings and overcoatings. The fleece is lighter and more open than the average fleeces of the down breeds, yielding about 5 pounds of washed wool. The Cheviot fleece runs even, the wool is pure white, averaging about 8 inches, thus exceeding the down wools in length. Owing to their light fleeces and medium weight, Cheviot sheep have never been extensively raised outside of Scotland. The distinguishing features are a c CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 63 broad head between the eyes. The eyes are very bright and alert. The ears are carried erect, and the head, ears and legs are covered with fine white hair. The fleece ends abruptly with a “ruff” just back of the ears and about the throat. 60. Crossbreds—This class of sheep is becoming a greater factor every year in the world’s wool production. A crossbred, in the general meaning, is the offspring which results from mating a ram and ewe of two distinct breeds. The term “crossbred’’ is specifically applied to sheep in South America, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, which have been produced by breed- ing Merino sheep with one of the mutton breeds of sheep, either of the long-wool or medium-wool breeds. In most cases, the long-wool breeds are used, as the resulting crossbreds are much heavier than those bred from the down breeds. The most popular long-wool breeds for crossbreeding are the Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney Marsh and Leicester. The usual method is to breed long-wool rams with Merino ewes. Crossbred wools are divided into coarse, medium and fine wools. Coarse crossbreds are below 14 blood and range from 12 inches down in length. They are lustrous, harsh, possess indifferent felting properties and are fairly strong. Medium crossbred wools include those grading 14 and % blood. The length is 10 inches and downward. These wools are very strong, lustrous, soft and possess fair felting properties. ine crossbreds include those of 14 and *%4 blood qualities. The length is 6 inches and down- ward. They are very strong, with fair luster, good color, soft handle and good felting properties. Pure bred mutton rams to be used for crossing with Merino range ewes in this country are mostly secured from breeders in the Northern Central States, the Province of Ontario, Canada, and certain districts in the Pacific Coast States. Some of the valleys in the Coast States are favored with a climate similar to England. In these districts old-country methods are possible. The most important of these districts is the Willamette Valley in Oregon. It contains about 5,000,000 acres, mostly devoted 64 WooL to raising Cotswold, Lincoln and Leicester rams for the range. Some of the down breeds are also found here for the same trade. 61. Purpose of Crossbreeding—The object of crossbreeding is to obtain a dual-purpose sheep, one which possesses the strong points of each breed to a considerable extent. The Merino is used to give a comparatively fine fleece, and one of the British breeds to improve the weight and form of the sheep and the quality of the mutton. The result gives the sheep owner a high return for both his mutton and wool. The practice has been carried out systematically in New Zealand, South America, Australia and South Africa. Great care and judgment must be exercised in selecting the best adapted breed, and types from the selected breed, to cross with the ewes. The breeder aims to con- stantly improve his flocks by selecting rams possessing features which will improve any present deficiencies in his flock. A knowledge of the original conditions in the home of the breed rams, such as climate, pasturage, profligacy and disposition, is of great value in determining their usefulness for crossing. The conditions, in the country where the crossbreds are to be raised, should be as near to the home conditions of the breeding ram as possible. The climate, pasturage, soil, etc., vary considerably in different parts of the same country, and what might be the best breed for one section could be a failure in another section. Before breeding season, the ewes should be divided according to the grade of their fleeces, and the rams should be classified in the same manner. By proper selection, the breeder is then able to mate his sheep to produce a fairly uniform crop of lambs, all of the same general form and size, and the fleeces will all grade together. Unfortunately, there has been little systematic crossbreeding in this country, but recently interest has been aroused. In the past, crossbreeding was conducted in a very haphazard manner in the West, no record being kept of the results obtained, and little attention given to selection. The most popular British breeds used for crossbreeding in the United States are the Cots- wold, Hampshire, Oxford, Shropshire and Lincoln. Australia CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 65 po) L ongwoo/ Merino Ra Ewe _ a Hace Breo Lon wool Ram ComMEBACK Merino Sseirocromeeres C Fine ComeBack Fie. 28.—Graphic Chart Illustrating Systematic Crossbreeding. 66 WOOL and South Africa are the only important wool-growing countries where the Merinos outnumber the mutton types. About 15 per cent. of the wool grown in Australia is crossbred, and the remain- der is Merino wool. 62. Results of Crossbreeding—The following description shows the possibilities and results of scientific crossbreeding, and is illustrated in the drawings of fleeces showing the grades of wool produced by each cross. Consider the crossing of a pure-bred Merino ewe and a pure-bred Lincoln ram, bearing in mind the distinguishing features of each, such as size, form, and the grade and character of the fleece. The result of the cross is a “half- bred.” The halfbred ewe is crossed with a pure-bred Lincoln ram, resulting in a “three-quarter bred,” which would possess three-fourths Lincoln or long wool, mutton-type blood, and one- fourth Merino or fine wool blood. The terms used do not signify the grade of the wool produced. Breeding any farther than this point toward the coarse wool is seldom practiced. The next breeding step is to breed the three-quarter-bred ewe with a pure- bred Merino ram. The offspring is known as the “comeback,” as it loses a considerable part of the Lincoln features and ap- proaches the Merino. The wool produced by this cross is often known in the trade as “comeback.” The final cross is produced by mating the “comeback” ewe with a pure-bred Merino ram, and the offspring is called “fine comeback.” The halfbred and comeback are very similar; the latter favors the Merino a trifle more than the halfbred and has a slightly finer fleece. The natural supposition would be that the cycle would repeat itself by crossing the fine comeback with a Lincoln ram; but unfortunately this cross brings poor results, the offspring being irregular and of a nondescript character. Large numbers of these irregular crossbreds are raised in the West with poor returns to the sheep grower, as the fleeces are light, uneven and often weak. The proper method is to cross the halfbreds and come- backs with Corriedale rams, which will hold them as halfbreds year after year with care and proper selection. The other alter- -><- CLASSES OF “Neck /st. Preces and Pieces Britch LiIMecoLry “Neck =><- ; : 5 /st. Pieces &nd.Piec Britch HALF BRED FLEECE WOOL Weck Britch MERINO “Neck Britch W4 BRED (Continued on next page) 67 yn ) \ v A 43 2 and. Pieces - >< Ist. Pieces €nd. Pieces WOOL /st. Pieces Ist. Pieces -><- nd. Pieces 2nd. Pieces Ps Britch Britch COMEBACK FINE COMEBACK Fic. 29.—Diagrams Illustrating Fleeces Produced by Crossbreeding. native is to send all the fine comebacks to the butcher and start over again. Romney and Leicester rams on Merino ewes will produce finer wool on the resulting crossbred sheep than the coarser long-wool breeds, such as Lincoln and Cotswold. Cross- bred sheep, developed from Merinos and any of the down breeds, naturally produce finer wool than the long-wool crosses, but the + down breeds are not used for crossbreeding to the same extent as the long-wool breeds. The contrast between the Merino and down breeds is not so marked as that between the Merino and long-wool breeds. The resulting crossbred sheep from the latter eross are much heavier than those produced by the Merino-down breed cross, and furthermore the wool produced by the crossbred sheep of the long-wool-Merino type is much longer in staple. All the crossbred wools are suitable for worsted manufacture. An excellent example showing the difference in staple length on medium-wool Merino and long-wool Merino crossbred sheep re- CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 69 sulted from breeding experiments by the Agricultural Experiment Station of the University of Wyoming at Laramie. The wool was passed upon by Prof. J. A. Hill, Station Wool Specialist. Two lots of Merino-range ewes were mated respectively with Southdown and Cotswold rams of good type and breeding. The resulting lambs were dropped in the latter part of March and shorn on the second of the following January, the fleeces repre- senting a little over nine months’ growth. The fleeces from the Southdown grades, graded as 1% blood, averaged 2.75 inches in staple growth, and the average shrinkage was estimated at 51 per cent. Sixty per cent. of the fleeces from the Cotswold grades were graded as 8 blood and the remainder as 14 blood. The average staple length was 4.1 inches and the average shrinkage was estimated at 43 per cent. 63. Carpet Wools.—As the name indicates, these wools are principally used in the manufacture of carpets and rugs. They Reproduced by permission of The Philadelphia Commercial Museum Fie. 30.—Native Sheep of Egypt. Fic. 31—Map of World Showing Source of Carpet Wools. CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 71 are mostly produced in Asia and Southeastern Europe by unim- proved native sheep, most of which are the fat-tailed sheep which are valued more for the oil and fat obtained from the carcass than the wool grown. Most of these sheep are sheared twice a year. Large quantities of carpet wools are “pulled” or “skin” wools, obtained from the pelts of slaughtered sheep. The great bulk of these wools is produced in Asia, Russia and Asia Minor, although practically all parts of the world contribute a limited amount. The fleeces are very light, uneven, coarse and kempy. These carpet wools are inferior to those previously described in the other three classes. Most of the carpet wools are only suit- able for wool-spun yarns for use in low-grade Axminsters and Smyrna rugs, art squares and ingrains. Some of the better varie- ties are of good length and quality, and make good combing wools for Wilton, Brussels and Tapestry carpets and rugs, ; ev ta) At times when wools of the other classes are high in price, cloth manufacturers turn to the better of the carpet wools for relief, but these wools do not give the same results as those they replace. Some of the better grades of carpet wools are mixed with other wools in the manufacture of coarse fabrics, such as the cheaper erades of cloakings, overcoatings, coarse tweeds and cheviots. Some grades are also used for felt boots, horse blankets, coarse upholstery goods, robes, paper makers’ felts and wadding for gun cartridges. A large source of supply for carpet wools other than those produced by unimproved native sheep, are the skirt- ings, britch, badly cotted fleeces, tags and pieces from braid and coarse domestic and crossbred wools. Carpet wools are com- paratively coarse, and are usually graded as coarse, common, medium and good. The following table contains most of the im- portant varieties of carpet wools, together with the country of production, and character and usual grade of the wool. Many of the wools included in this table come on the market as pulled, skin or tanners’ wool. WOOL 64. List of Important Carpet Wools. Variety of Wool Seotch black-faced Producing Country or highland wool. Great Britain Oporto Sardinian Iceland Turkish Donskoi Crimean Bessarabian Georgian Toucha. Georgian Nouka. Turkestan Bokhara Camel Hair Afghan Mongolian Angora SMYyINe os skh a Aleppo Bagdad Awassi Karadi Kandahar Joria Marwar Thibet Woosie Kinchow, ete. Egyptian Soudan Valparaiso Cordova Mexican Portugal Iceland . European Turkey and Balkans Russia Russia Russia . Russia-in-Asia . Russia-in-Asia Russia-in-Asia Russia-in-Asia Russia-in-Asia . Asia Minor Asia Minor Syria Mesopotamia Mesopotamia Mesopotamia India India India India China . China W.Coast, S. Amer.. . Argentina stepanete aise Mexico .......... Mostly short staple . Long, strong combing. . . Varies Afghanistan ..... Character . Long staple, strong combing Common to med. Good staple, luster Bacare/ a aneiehelaists Medium Long staple, straight fibered Straight fibered combing. Medium combing . Coarse Long, straight fibered combing Long, straight fibered combing Medium Medium Long, strong combing... Coarse .Short to medium staple. Good . Short to medium staple. Medium . Short to medium staple. Medium . Mostly colored medium BbaNles Rita sass. Kant rhe Medium Varies Medium to long staple COMAD UG ec dis ate ean Medium Very kempy, medium staple Good sound staple yood sound staple Good sound staple comb- ing Mostly brown and black, Good good sound staple . Good .Good sound staple comb- Good .Good sound staple comb- Good Both short and long SUA DOr aire mx tutte recple xe Medium Short staple Varies Short hairy staple Coarse Medium to long staple COMMING 2x8 wastes castes Medium Short staple Common to med. Very kempy, short to medium staple ...... Coarse to med. Long, lustrous combing. Medium Short staple Common Long, sound staple Good Long, sound staple Good .. Coarse to med. Lar f CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 73 65. Miscellaneous Breeds.—The Corriedale, Iceland and Tunis sheep have not been included among the British types, as they had their origin outside of Great Britain. They are long-wool sheep and good mutton types. Peculiar and special breeds of sheep, which do not come under the classification of the breeds of sheep as described in this chapter, are also considered a part of the miscellaneous group. 66. Corriedale.——Authorities disagree as to the breeder origi- nating this breed, which has been established during the past twenty-five years. The difference of opinion is probably due to several breeders working along the same lines and reaching iden- tical results about the.same time. One fact is certain, that the home of this breed is the Province of Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand. The type was evolved by crossing the Merino with coarse-wooled Lincoln and Leicester sheep, and then breeding in again by recrossing their progeny until the desired ideal was Fig, 32.—Corriedale Sheep. 74 WooL obtained. The Corriedale is an excellent dual-purpose sheep, both its wool and mutton commanding top prices. Selected breeding stock has been sent from New Zealand to Australia, Patagonia and the United States. The Corriedale has retained the block or mutton form of the Lincoln or Leicester from which it was bred, and also grows a very fine wool for such a type, noted for length and sharp regular crimp. The breed retains the herd- ing and grazing properties of the Merino, and possesses a very vigorous constitution. It is especially efficient in hilly districts and snow ranges. The average weight of Corriedale fleeces is 20 pounds for rams, 14 pounds for wethers, and 12 pounds for ewes. 67. Iceland.—The sheep of Iceland are the old Norse breed, and there has been practically no mixture with other breeds, as the government has forbidden the importation of sheep for fear of the introduction of disease among the flocks. Little attention is given to the breeding and care of the sheep and wool. The sheep are of medium size, possess a fair mutton carcass, and usually show prominent horns curved downward in both sexes. The fleece is similar to Lincoln wool for quality, but shows a far superior luster, which is its distinguishing characteristic. Iceland sheep produce an unusually heavy undergrowth of wool in the fleece, and on this account are known as “double- decked” sheep. A peculiar feature of Iceland wool is that the noil is more valuable than the top. When buyers are inspecting this wool more serious thought is given to the percentage of noil which it will yield than the yield after scouring. It is unusually soft and lustrous, and is very desirable for certain knitted and woven fabrics where a high luster is necessary. Unfortunately the supply is very limited, as the flocks of Iceland only number about 900,000 head. Practically all of the wool is shipped to Copenhagen and Liverpool in July and August, and only a small amount finds its way to this country. In winter the flocks are kept in stables and fed with hay. By the end of April they are turned into the field to graze. The CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 75 lambing season begins about the middle of May, and the weaning season begins at the middle of June. Before weaning, the ears of the lambs are branded to indicate the owner. Each farm has its own earmark, which is officially registered. After the weaning season the mother sheep are kept in a movable sheep pen near the farmhouse, and milked every morning and evening. The lambs and dry sheep are driven into the mountains to graze with- out the care of a shepherd. In September, men are sent out to round up the sheep and drive them down to the farms. The farmers in the northern part of the island have given more attention to the care of their sheep and the preparation of the wool for the market. These farmers shear the wool from the sheep, but in the southern and western parts of Iceland the wool is usually pulled from the sheep: The wool is sheared or pulled from the sheep in May and June, and then washed by the farmer in his home. Fie. 33.—Tunis Ram. WOOL Fie. 34.—Winter Lambs with Ewes. 68. Tunis.—This breed is a native of Tunis, in Northern Africa, and was first brought to this country in 1800. It has never become important, but recently has received considerable atten- tion from breeders on account of its mutton qualities and its ability to produce winter lambs. The Tunis is of excellent mutton form, is intermediate in size, with the head and legs covered with reddish-brown hair. The breed is without horns. Tunis sheep grow a very long and coarse fleece resembling Cheviot wool in character. The fleeces weigh from 6 to 12 pounds. 69. Karakul*.—The Karakul sheep are natives of Bokhara, a principality under Russian protection in Central Asia. Bokhara is bordered by Turkestan on the north and Afghanistan on the south. A few Karakul sheep are kept in the territory adjoining Bokhara, and some Karakuls are found in Persia, but the stock “* From United States Government pamphlet “Karakul Sheep,” by F. R, Marshall, L. L. Heller and V. O. McWhorter, Animal Husbandry Division, Bureau of Animal Industry. , : i CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL ( common to that country and known in the United States as Per- sians are not valuable as fur producers. The number of sheep in this territory is estimated at from 3,000,000 to 4,000,000. The value of these sheep lies in the fur obtained from the lambs. The common practice is to kill the lambs when but a few days old, as the character of the curls deteriorates with greater age. The skins of prematurely born lambs have value as furs, but ewes are not sacrificed to secure them. The furs obtained from the young Karakul lambs are known as Persian lamb, Astrakhan and Broad- tail. These skins are all black in color, but vary in the character of curl. Persians have the most pronounced, most uniform, and tightest curls and the greatest value. Astrakhans have longer hair, the curl is much more open, and usually has less luster or gloss than the Persian lamb. Broadtail skins are taken from lambs prematurely born. Their hair is shorter than on Persian skins, and instead of being tightly curled it is swirled and ex- hibits a very attractive wavy pattern. In each of these classes of lambskins there are varying grades. The annual exportation of lambskins from Bokhara averages about 1,500,000. The skins are collected by dealers and traders, most of them to be resold at the annual summer fair at Nijni Novgorod, in Russia, 272 miles by rail east of Moscow. About 166 skins are packed into a bale and ordinarily not assorted for export to various countries until after becoming the property of the dealers, largely Germans from Leipzig, who purchase them at Nijni Novgorod. In Leipzig the skins are sorted into uniform lots for export to various parts and a few are also dyed, though as a rule the dyeing is not done until the skins reach the firm by which they are to be made up for wearing apparel. The Karakul is a sheep of medium size, with black face and legs, and a long, coarse fleece of some shade of gray ranging in length from 6 to 10 inches. It is classed as carpet wool. The conformation of the Karakul does not commend it as a mutton producer. The breed is described as “broad-tailed.’”’ It has the narrow back and flat sides common to sheep not bred for meat ‘qUvyT puv OMG [NYVIVy—CE ‘91,7 OOL a W CLASSES OF FLEECE WOOL 79 production. A depression back of the shoulders and a high loin are usually present. The face is narrow and decidedly Roman- nosed. The ears are small, pendulous, and set somewhat low. Karakul sheep were first introduced in the United States in 1909. The production of these furs in this country appears to be feasible and to-present commercial possibilities. The impor- tations have consisted chiefly of rams, which have been mated with ewes of other breeds to determine what class of the readily available ewes are most valuable for mating with Karakul rams to produce lambs having good skins. Flocks owned in Texas, Kansas and New York now comprise over 1000 head of sheep having one-half or three-quarter Karakul blood. Besides these erades, there are 60 rams and ewes that are either imported or descended from imported stock. The imported rams have been largely used upon long-wool ewes, with Cotswold and Lincoln ewes having the preference. Fic. 36.—Australian Merino Ram, Showing Method of Examining Fleece on Sheep’s Back. CHAPTER III SHEARING, PREPARING AND MARKETING WOOL 70. Method of Shearing.—The great bulk of our sheep are now sheared by power clippers, although hand clippers are still used in the East and Middle West where the flocks are small. The invention of the machine shear only dates back about twenty- five years, but only about one-fourth of the world’s sheep are now sheared by hand. Sheep shearing requires considerable skill, and experienced shearers average between 175 and 200 head per day, as against 100 head as a high figure for expert hand shearers on our Western ranges. The individual Australian shearing record for one day of eight hours is 316 head. The machine shears clip the wool evenly, leaving a uniform stubble of about a quar- ter of an inch on the sheep’s back, whereas with the hand shearing the stubble is often uneven. The yield of wool per head is natu- rally increased by the close shearing, and the increased weight gained in this manner is estimated at about 5 per cent. The fleece is also in better condition after machine shearing, as there is less danger of cutting the fibers and tearing the fleece apart. The machine shears frequently leave a slight scratch or two on the sheep’s skin, and occasionally through carelessness the shearer cuts under small pieces of flesh, and these adhere to the wool growing from them and often carry through to the card. Owing to their numerous folds, American Merino sheep cannot be sheared advantageously with machine shears. The cost of shearing in this country averages 10 cents per head. This-figure includes rolling and tying the fleeces and packing them in bags, but does not include the cost of the bags. The Australian cost is about 8 cents per head, and this price includes the cost of skirting and classing, which amounts to about 1 cent per head. 80 SHEARING AND MARKETING S = i] % = = ~ Ss S & § S >) Ss ‘2 = a = % 3 S = ‘2 = a, % = ~™ ~ ~) = 8 ‘= 5 4 ‘3 S S % nN a es) Ss % =) 3 Ne re s) Re = =) | | I = ie] o N = 5 o i, f aa s) = =| ot = Me o = = | =< 4 by ise) o P= i=) Nn _ v oe a p with Hand Clip € 82 WooL 71. Shearing Season.—The spring of the year is the season for shearing. Some sections of the country, where the climate is favorable, such as California, New Mexico, Arizona, and Texas, start shearing in late March or early April. The bulk of the shearing in this country is performed in May and June. Some wools are clipped semi-annually in the spring and fall; the most important of these wools are Texas and California. In the southern hemisphere the seasons are reversed ; the spring season comes at the same time as our fall season. The shearing Fia. 38.—Machine Shearing in Wyoming. months for Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and South America are October and November. 72. Weight of Fleeces—Fleeces vary in weight according .to the breed and sex of the sheep. In the previous descriptions of the various breeds the average fleece weights of each breed are given. Male sheep, rams and wethers (castrated male sheep) are larger and heavier than ewes and lambs, and naturally yield heavier fleeces. The combined average weight of Australian Merino fleeces is about 8 pounds. Australian Merino rams aver- ' ; " SHEARING AND MARKETING 83 age 17 pounds; wethers, 13 pounds; ewes, 10 pounds, and lambs, 2% pounds. Specially selected stud rams have yielded fleeces weighing 30 pounds. 73. Method of Machine Shearing.—Shearing plants have been installed at various convenient locations on the sheep ranges. The buildings consist of long sheds, with shafting driven by a gasoline engine, extending the full length of the shed on both sides of the shearing space. Shearing machines are placed at convenient intervals and receive their power from the shafts. One shearer operates each shearing machine. The sheep are driven to the shearing sheds from the range in large flocks of 2000 or more, and are placed in large corrals next to the shearing sheds. Suit- ably fenced inclines lead from the corrals to each shearer’s stand. When the shearer is ready to start a number of sheep are driven into each chute. The shearer reaches into the chute and pulls out a sheep. The sheep is forced into a sitting position between the shearer’s knees by skillful manipulation on the part of the shearer. The shearer now proceeds to shear the fleece, guiding the clipper with the right hand. When the entire fleece is removed the sheep is driven into another chute, which leads into the count- Fie. 39.—New Shearing Sheds and Range, Bitter Creek, Wyoming. 84 WOOL ing pen. On the way to the counting pen the sheep are branded. As the wool grows it carries the brand mark with it so that it is always easy to distinguish. Helpers fold the fleeces with the dirty side of the fleece inside, and tie them tightly as fast as the shearers throw them on the floor. Each fleece is folded and tied separately, and then placed in a long burlap bag. These bags are hung from a suitable framework, and a man tramps the fleeces down as closely as possible as they are thrown in. From 300 to 400 pounds of wool are placed in each sack. 74. Australian Method.—In Australia, each ranch possesses its own shearing plant, or a small number of ranches combine and establish a co-operative shearing shed conveniently located. One important feature practiced in Australia and usually omitted in this country is sweating the sheep prior to shearing. The sheep are transferred from the gathering pens to the sweating pens, which in turn are next to the catching pens from which the shearer takes the sheep. The temperature of the sweating pens is usually 10 degrees or more greater than the normal tempera- ture. The sheep are closely herded together in the sweating pen for two hours during the day or eight hours during the night. Sweating causes the yolk to flow more freely, thereby putting the wool in the best possible condition for shearing. The sheep shear much easier when sweated. The actual shearing is performed in the same general manner as the shearing in this country, except that the shearers handle the sheep more skillfully and gently, and the belly wool is usually shorn separate from the rest of the fleece. Great care is taken to protect the fleece from contact with foreign substances. After the fleece has been removed from the sheep the Australian method of preparing it for the market is widely different from ours. The fleece, usually 914 -x 4% feet, is taken to the skirting table and is skilfully thrown on it in such a way as to spread out evenly over it. The skirting table is usually about 10 x 15 feet in size and the top of it is a grid composed of wooden SHEARING AND MARKETING 85 slats placed five-eighths of an inch apart. ‘Two skirters usually work together at each table; one skirter operates on the fore parts of the fleece and the other man skirts the hind parts, Skirt- Fic. 40.—Sheep Entering the Sweating Pens, Bitter Creek, Wyoming. ing separates from the main portion of the fleece inferior and heavy shrinking parts, such as tags, leg pieces, neck pieces, bellies, locks and stained parts. The various skirtings just enumerated are separated by the skirters as follows: The small fragments of wool skirted from the forequarters of the fleece are much finer and lighter shrinking than the inferior pluckings of the britch end. They are known respectively as First Pieces and Second Pieces. 3 The first and second pieces are carefully gone over, together with the bellies and sweepings from the shearing floor, at the piece picker’s table. .The tags, stained parts and locks are assigned to individual bins. The piece picker’s table is,8 x 3% feet, and sloped like a desk. The top is made from pyramid slats one-half inch apart to allow dust, sand and twice-cut wool to fall through. ‘ After skirting, the fleece is rolled with the cut side out, and secured by twisting in one end. The proper method of rolling WooL «i r= g ° a i= 43 — °o 12) ) 3 Ss | - q ap = - i) law] o a D it a - — ~ = > mM « . “180-150 Clothing, 145s Go TOS 180 Clothing, medium... 69 7 188: 165) 166. 123 88. Rail and Ocean Freights on Raw Wools.—As the bulk of our wool is produced in the West, and the great manufacturing districts are located in the East, the freight charges form an item of cost that cannot be slighted; $2.75 per 100 pounds is a fair estimate for the average transportation of greasy wool from the West to Boston. A special rate of 90 cents for bags, 75 cents for bales and $1 per 100 pounds applies on all wools shipped to Boston from the Pacific Coast terminals, such as Seattle, Tacoma, Portland, Astoria, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Sacramento. Shipments from Liverpool to Boston range from 30 to 33 cents per 100 pounds, and these prices include dock and shipping charges amounting to about 12 cents per 100. The rates to Bos- SHEARING AND MARKETING 103 ton from ports in Australia, South Africa and South America are $3, $1.90 and $1.50, respectively. But to these rates must be added the railroad charges in the above-mentioned countries from the ranch to the shipping port. The average railroad charge for hauling wool from interior points to the Australian seaboard is from 65 to 70 cents per 100 pounds. In South America the average freight rate for grease wool from interior points of Argentina and Uruguay to Buenos Aires is 50 cents. In the southern parts of Argentina the rates are vari- able, as the wool must be hauled to the coast by ox teams and costs from $3 to $7 per 100 pounds. As a matter of fact, only a small portion of foreign wool is shipped directly from the producing country to the United States; nearly all such wool is first sent to Liverpool and then transhipped to Boston, New York or Philadelphia. Since the opening of the Panama Canal there has been an increase in direct shipments from Australia to our Atlantic seaboard ports. DISTANCES BY WATER ROUTES FROM IMPORTANT WooL PorTS TO Boston AND LONDON Boston London Boston London BORIDB IY 8S sec Sie eveteer 7,962 6,260 Hong Kong ....... 11,390 9,688 DOSLOU Mn sete Wists ah 3 AGI 3,088". shiverpool. 3. 30.5.2 2,854 638 54.72 00) 1 CRRA 409% TOndOn. c'est ss Os088 die Buenos Aires ...... 5,804 6,294 Melbourne ........ 10,200 11,055 Cape: Town: 025.05) 6,776 6,117 San Francisco .... 5,450 8,039 Constantinople ..... 4,820 3,118 89. Foreign Wool Auctions.—The London wool sales are held six times a year, every two months. During the progress of the London sales, the entire quantity of every lot of wool to be sold each day is accessible for examination by the buyers in well- lighted warehouses. Colonial wools are featured at the London sales. Printed catalogues are provided, which give the clip marks and other descriptions marked on the bales. Later in the day the auction sale begins in the salesroom on Coleman Street. It is not unusual to find 100 lots, each averaging 18,000 pounds, sold in fifteen minutes. Every lot is promptly sold to the highest bidder, except such lots as may be withdrawn and the “star ‘eI[Viysny ‘soTVM YING MIN ‘Kaupdkg ‘UIVIT, [OOM JO [VALIIY— OE “DIY wuinasnpy [DII4IWMWMOD DIYFapoIIY J 24 fo uowsstusag «q paonposqay A ~~ ae si bid? ' ~< i © QC BRB LL “See aera, - gale ee Si SHEARING AND MARKETING 105 lots.” These star lots are composed of one, two or three bales, and are auctioned off after all the larger lots have been disposed of. After the sales, printed catalogues are distributed by the brokers to consigners and purchasers of wools, and a permanent record is thus obtained of every lot sold at auction. London prices practically govern the wool markets of the world. The Liverpool auctions are conducted and catalogued in the same manner as the London sales. The India wools are featured at the Liverpool sales, but lesser quantities of other foreign wools are also handled. Sales are also conducted in a similar manner in important continental centers such as Antwerp, Hamburg, Bremen, Havre and Marseilles. River Platte wools are featured at Antwerp, while the others auction wools which have been purchased by dealers in the country of origin. Large quantities of wool known as “off sorts,’ obtained by skirting, are exceedingly heavy-shrinking. The bulk of such wool is graded and scoured in the country of origin and sold at the European auctions. By forwarding the wool in the scoured condition, a saving is made on transportation charges, and the off sorts are presented for sale in a more attractive condition than would be the case if they were offered in the original greasy condition. : Australia’s position as the greatest fine wool-producing coun- try, both for quantity and quality, remains unchallenged. While the natural advantages, such as cheap extensive ranges furnish- ing green pasturage through the entire year, are very favorable to the wool-growing industry, except when visited by exceptional droughts, nevertheless due credit must be given to the efficient breeding, management and above everything else, the practical and attractive manner in which the wools are prepared for the market. However, the amount of suitable grazing land is limited, as more than half of Australia is dry and barren, without any water supply and practically no rain. 90. Wool Auctions in Australia.—In recent years the Austra- lian wool growers have been selling large quantities of their WOOL Australia. Melbourne, — 2 wo fae nN R ® © & NM - > ° mm DM L i op & Qa Oks Fia. SHEARING AND MARKETING 107 wools at auction sales conducted in numerous cities throughout the country. These sales are similar to the London sales, with the exception that only ten bales of a lot are opened for exami- nation by prospective bidders. Every year more foreign wool buyers visit Australia to attend these sales. American buyers purchase about 100,000 bales of wool in Australia annually. The chief criticism of the Australian system is that there are too many selling centers. A good plan has been suggested to hold one series of sales in the capital city of each of the six States. The most important Australian wool auctions are conducted at Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide and Geelong. When selling in the English market, freight, insurance, storage, dock fees and other charges add from $5.00 to $6.00 per bale to the cost of selling. The amount of these charges varies with changes in freight rates, money exchange and the weight of the bales. Another objection is the long delay in receiving the money after the wool has been sold. When selling wool in Australia the wool grower is paid within two weeks after the sale. Although a higher price is obtained at the London sales, the net return to the grower is usually greater and always quicker when the wool is sold in the home markets. It frequently happens that the ship- ment to London misses the sale for which it was intended. The lot must then wait two months for the next sale. In the mean- time storége and insurance charges accumulate, and five or six months may elapse between the shearing of the wool in Australia and the receipt of the returns from London. In New Zealand six sales are held during November and December, which is the regular selling season. These auction sales are held in Wellington, Napier, Christchurch, Nelson, Timaru and Ivereargill. 91. Marketing Wools of the British Isles—In Scotland wool is seldom sold at annual fairs, but is sent. to wool brokers, who usually sell it by auction, and charge a commission of 21% per cent. The brokers supply farmers with wool sheets, warehouse the wool, insure it against loss by fire, and issue printed cata- WOOL = = = & 4 = = ~ =] = S x & = = = i) ~ 8 = = nN ey & 3 3 = = = xX & ~ ~ — ~) IS iS) > 5 3 < = x iS) nN a oe) 3 S S 2 a) 8S NG nN Sy Re 3 - _ = iol ~~ mM 5 < cS =| 3 _— mn =| ® rs s So =| 5 2 mn _ — fea) o —_— a DM — ro) 2 = — 5} iS al ad @ —_ roy mn — : ro] wD & = cy SHEARING AND MARKETING 109 logues to buyers, besides advertising and organizing the sale. These sales take place at certain seasons, and the exact dates are published at the beginning of each year. When necessary, special sales are frequently held between these fixed dates. In order to obtain the best possible prices for small lots, brokers often grade or class together two or three lots of exactly the same description, and in this way make up a suitable quantity of uniform quality as an extra inducement to big buyers. This practice invariably secures the owners of these small lots a higher price than they would realize if their lots were sold individually. Brokers often effect sales privately, both in their offices and by mailing samples to manufacturers. The system of selling through brokers seems to answer very well where the varieties of wool are not numerous. Many large wool growers sell direct to wool merchants, and also to American agents. In some districts the tendency toward private sales between farmers and agents seems to be increasing. The system of selling by auction at a broker’s warehouse differs in many ways from selling by auction at a wool fair. A wool merchant must not be confused with a general merchant dealing in wool. General merchants or village shopkeepers in England and Scotland do not now deal in wool. Many years ago they bought wool from local farmers, but the practice was very un- satisfactory and strongly condemned. When the “Truck Act” was passed it almost made it impossible for shopkeepers to buy wool on the old lines, and small farmers have been able to sell their wool at a profit ever since. he difficulties of the small woolen mills in Scotland ceased at the same time. Originally, all the wool sold at English wool fairs was done by “private bargain,” but selling by auction has gradually replaced the old method. There are still some small but important fairs where auction sales have not been adopted, and many buyers would not favor a change. However, it is only a question of time before the auction system becomes general. From a buyer’s standpoint there is much to be said in favor of private sales. 110 WOOL When the wool is indifferently classified, or the fleeces irregular, a buyer has a better chance to make an examination and purchase small, odd lots under the price ruling for that day. Brokers also favor the private sales, because unsold lots are handed over to them for disposal. The bulk of the annual clip in England is sold at the wool fairs. Brokers and buying-agents handle but a comparatively small portion. About two days before the fair the wool is sent or brought to the sale room, placed in order and catalogued. Printed cata- logues are generally mailed to buyers who bought at previous sales, but sometimes this is found inconvenient, and they are presented to intending buyers the afternoon preceding the sale day, when the wool is exposed for inspection. For the conve- nience of buyers who arrive late, the wool is again open for inspection from 6 A. M. until 9 A. M. on the day of sale. Sales usually commence at 10 a. M., but in some cases not until 1 p. Mm. The buyers at these sales consist of wool merchants, foreign agents and manufacturers; brokers of course do not buy. The buyers are skilled wool men, well informed on market conditions, and they also possess a thorough knowledge of the requirements of the woolen and worsted industries. While inspecting the wool they mark suitable lots in their catalogues with the price they are disposed to pay, and when these lots are knocked down they enter the selling prices. In this way they feel the pulse of the market soon after the sale begins. Selling often takes place where the wool is exposed, and you seldom hear several men shouting the same price at the same time. Smaller lots, greater variety and more variations in quality no doubt prevent the “Coleman Street Style” from being duplicated. The auctions in a broker’s salesroom closely resemble Coleman Street, because imported as well as home-grown wools are sold there. In Ireland the system of handling and marketing wool differs considerably from those of either England or Scotland. The country produces a large quantity of wool and a somewhat mixed SHEARING AND MARKETING Lit variety from every point of view. The leading sheep is the Ros- common, and this breed is not only crossed with down breeds, but is also used for “grading up” several smaller breeds. Farmers also cross other long-wool sheep with downs and hill sheep with long-wool sheep. From a mutton standpoint the Irish crosses are often criticised, because they produce big, fat carcasses, but they usually produce excellent wool. The quantity of wool produced in Ireland increases annually, and the quality has earned a high reputation. Unfortunately, their auction sales are not numerous, therefore most of the Irish wool is sold privately at the annual fairs. Large growers often sell their wool to agents and merchants before the fairs commence, while others send their whole clip to brokers. Such transactions, however, only represent a small portion of the wool grown in Ireland. English wool merchants are represented at these Irish fairs in large numbers, as are also a few manufac- turers. All these buyers have stands in the market, await the arrival of the farmers, and, after the wool is examined and the price agreed upon, it is weighed and the amount immediately paid over in cash. The fine, soft texture and clean condition of Irish crossbred long wool has created a market of its own, which the manufacturer cannot overlook; therefore the wool merchant can afford to spend a little extra time in matching up and classing. Irish wools yield 5 per cent. more than English, and a considerable portion of the annual clip is exported to the United States. 92. South American Wool Sales—Although direct shipments are made by some large stations to Liverpool and elsewhere, the bulk of the South American wools is sold in Buenos Aires, Bahia 3lanco and Montevideo. The method of handling wool at Buenos Aires differs in some respects from that in other centers; however, the Australian method is supplanting this system. The wool is first exposed for sale in the large market hall, where it is inspected by buyers and speculators, and bought as there shown. Next it is taken to the Le WOOL ° warehouse, classed and skirted, and then shipped to Liverpool, whether destined for the English or United States markets. Sort- ing being too expensive in Buenos Aires, and also somewhat unre- liable, is usually done in England. The buying season is from October to March, and the total clip of each season is usually sold within that period. There is one general feature of marketing wool in South America which differs from the custom of other wool-producing countries. Elsewhere, wools sold in the grease are bought with regard to their probable net yield after scouring, and buyers exer- cise their own judgment and bid accordingly. South American wools, with few exceptions, are dealt with on a different. basis. The sellers take the whole responsibility for the scoured yield. Buyers order grease wool at such a price as will bring the net scoured wool in at a stated cost, and the sellers invoice the greasy wool at the price per pound which they estimate will produce the desired result. So long as they get their net wool at the bar- gained cost, the invoiced price per pound is a matter of indif- ference. Large firms in Buenos Aires and Montevideo, which deal on this basis, are prepared to guarantee the net yield under certain conditions. The contracts of the various firms in the chief centers differ in some details, but the form of contract drawn up by the British Association of Wool Buyers, and approved by that body, is the one in general use. 93. Canadian Wool Situation—Canada, with its millions of acres of rich farming lands, does not maintain enough sheep to supply its home demands for mutton and wool. At present the number of sheep in Canada slightly exceeds 2,750,000. For 1913 and 1914 the importations of sheep averaged annually 170,000 head, and the annual wool importations for the same period aver- aged 9,000,000 pounds, In the Maritime Provinces and Ontario, only mutton sheep are found. The long-wool breeds are extremely popular and are as numerous as the down breeds. The Province of Ontario is noted for the quality of its sheep, and a specialty is made of raising yy . SHEARING AND MARKETING 113 high-grade breeding stock. Most of the pure-bred stock offered for sale is purchased by American sheep owners for the improve- ment of their flocks. Half of the total number of sheep in Canada are to be found in Ontario. The climate during seven months of the year is especially suitable for sheep raising, and is somewhat similar to that of Great Britain. The land is hilly and grass is abundant in Eastern Canada, where the sheep are raised under farming conditions. West of the Province of Ontario to the Pacific Coast, comparatively few sheep are found. In this sec- tion, where sheep are maintained, they run the open range, and the methods employed are similar to those used in the Inter- mountain States of this country. Shelter and winter feeding are a necessity in all parts of Canada, as the winters are severe. Most of the Western Canadian wool is produced by crossbred Merino sheep in southern Alberta and southwestern Saskatche- wan. ‘This district is gradually being taken away from the sheepmen by the heavy influx of settlers. Most of Western Canada is devoted entirely to the production of grains on a large scale. This method of farming is not conducive to the establish- ment of a sheep industry such as is found where general farming is practiced. Practically no fine wool is produced in Canada. Most of the shortage in mutton is west of Ontario. In Eastern Canada the shearing is done with common hand shears. The Canadian Government, through the Livestock Branch of the Department of Agriculture, is making a deter- mined effort to increase and improve the mutton and wool pro- duction of Canada. The Department has published and widely distributed excellent literature treating all phases of the sheep industry. A staff of wool experts has been sent throughout the country showing the necessity for the better preparation of wool, and demonstrating the proper methods to employ. Their duties furthermore were to visit farmers and ranchers and to instruct them in selection of breeding stock, with the object of improving the breeds. In spite of the extensive educational program, there has been no decided increase in the production of Canadian 114 WOOL wools. There has been an improvement in the preparation of the wool for the market, especially the range wools. Canadian wools contain an excessive amount of vegetable matter, due to careless feeding methods in winter. In the East practically all the wool is sold by the farmers to local storekeepers, who in turn sell direct to the mills. In some cases manufacturers buy direct from the farmer for cash or woolen goods in exchange. The Western wools are mostly sold through wool growers’ co-operative associations. ‘The members send their wool to the association’s warehouse, where it is usually graded by experts assigned by the Livestock Branch. In this manner, desirable lots are secured which attract the attention of large buyers. The wool is usually sold at auction, and for a number of years several large wool merchants in Boston have purchased the bulk of the West Canadian wools. 94. Essential Requirements for Manufacturing— arter | Qu Fie. 66. 31 1 x AND SORTIN( GRADING g Wool. in: Common Comb 6/7. ‘ Te FIC WOOL A 68.—Braid Wool. 4IG. GRADING AND SORTING Low The lower grades of domestic and territory wools are named alike, but the finer grades carry different names in the two classes. Pulled wools, which are obtained from the pelts of slaughtered sheep, are graded by letters, and cannot be sorted as closely as fleece wools. 105. Comparative Grades——The following table shows the American domestic grades, together with the equivalent territory, pulled wool, Canadian, and foreign grades, with the counts usually spun from the foreign top makers’ grades in the United States. Both combing and clothing wools grade the same; the terms “combing” and ‘“‘clothing”’ are used with the grade term to distinguish them. There is a more marked distinction between the low grades than the fine grades. An important distinction also exists between lambs’ wool and that from sheep two or more years old. The lambs’ wool is natu- rally pointed at the end, as it has never been clipped, and a number of fibers are usually grouped in a pointed lock at their tips. The first fleece clipped from a sheep is also known as hog, hogget or teg wool, and it will spin finer than other fleece wools of similar quality. U.S. Counts U.S. U.S. Pulled Spun in Domestic Territory Wool Foreign Dis. Baplisplodd : GaSe) id. eek eck FUNC a Sarbanes ces ee AA 66s-74s 60s Three-quarter blood (X)...Fine medium ..........1 AA 60s-66s 50s ADAGE DIGOd™ . ia iekis < ds'5:s MOOR eso oe Pe ee aie A 54s-60s 40s Three-eighths blood ....... Three-eighths blood :... B 48s-54s 36s One-quarter blood ........ One-quarter blood ...... B 443-488 328 Low one-quarter blood..... Low t4 blood i). TMG) oi soa os o's co as XX and X combing Merino (territory) Fine and fine medium clothing and staple Merino (Rambouillet) ........... XX and X combing and clothing and a small amount of % blood Crossbred: Longwool on Merino....%, 34 and 4 blood combing Crossbred: Medium wool on Merino... *4,, % and 8 blood combing or clothing TE Oolitic oe eT es Labo Low 4 blood ecmbing or braid ls su te, 21 on ella gree ne oe PRE a a Low % blood combing or braid ME DTEWROLG ss shsckig Cees eatin eae eR a Low 4 blood combing or braid POURS a G2 bo foots he tig a se Low 4 blood combing or braid HVOSCOMIMION : cb Veins as cee tcheeites Bia aS Low \4 blood combing or braid Corriedale , 34 blood combing Southdown Y% and % blood clothing : SURES E) 1 Nhu gree aaa a ae ated oe ae Nn BR Mostly % blood, some 14 blood combing or clothing Hampshire %& and 4 blood clothing Oxford 4, and low 4 blood combing % and \ blood clothing Cheviot blood combing EMMMRID Wy sik niece laciee iy’ Aiak wibo bth wit Low % blood combing OFFICIAL STANDARD WOOL GRADES After several years of work, officials of the Bureau of Agricul- tural Economics submitted to the Secretary of Agriculture under date of May 7, standard grades of wool which, if he approved, he had the right to establish and promulgate as the official wool standards. This he did on July 13, after approving them on May 18, to be effective as of July 1, 1923. The various grades are defined under eight sections, as follows: Section 1. Grade fine——Fine shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is not greater than the sample marked “‘fine” of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of GRADING AND SORTING 137 Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool standards of the United States, grades.” Section 2. Grade one-half blood.—One-half blood shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “fine” but not greater than the sample marked “one-half blood’’ of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool standards of the United States, grades.” Section 3. Grade three-eighths blood—Three-eighths blood shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “one-half blood” but not greater than the sample marked “three-eighths blood” of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool standards of the United States, grades.” Section 4. Grade one-fourth blood.—One-fourth blood shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “three-eighths blood” but not greater than the sample marked “one-fourth blood” of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool stand- ards of the United States, grades.”’ Section 5. Grade low one-fourth blood.—Low one-fourth blood shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “one-fourth blood” but not greater than the sample marked “low one-fourth blood” of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool standards of the United States, grades. Section 6. Grade common.—Common shall be wool which in diameter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “low one- fourth” but not greater than the sample marked “common”’ of a 138 WOOL series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of Agriculture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “original official wool standards of the United States, grades.” Section 7. Grade braid.—Braid shall be wool which in diam- eter of fiber is greater than the sample marked “common” and which approximates the sample marked “braid” of a series of samples in the custody of the United States Department of Agri- culture in the District of Columbia in a container marked “origi- nal official wool standards of the United States,” grades. Section 8. For the purposes of grading. —Wool in the fleece shall be designated by the grade of the largest proportion of the fibers of the fleece. ee ee | ¥ i} dT ‘J 4 7 { CHAPTER V SHRINKAGE 110. Cause of Shrinkage.—Before wool can be processed into yarn it is necessary to remove, by scouring, the grease and foreign matter present. The grease and foreign matter represent the loss or shrinkage, and have been described in detail in the first chapter under the heading “Grease and Foreign Matter.” The question of shrinkage is one of the most important phases con- nected with the buying and manufacture of wool. The amount of loss or shrinkage is figured as a certain percentage of the original grease weight of the wool. For example, a shrinkage of 60 per cent. would mean that 100 pounds of grease wool would only yield 40 pounds of clean or scoured wool. There is a wide variation, ranging from 25 per cent. to 80 per cent., in the shrinkage of various wools grown in this country. As a general rule, the fine grades are the heaviest shrinking. Short wools shrink from 2 per cent. to 3 per cent. more than longer wools of similar character. The main factors influencing the amount of shrinkage are, first, the breed of sheep, which in turn largely governs the grade of wool grown; second, the char- acter of the soil; third, climatic conditions, and fourth, the care given the flocks. 111. Shrinkage Affects Value.—After determining the quality of the wool under consideration the buyer estimates the shrink- age, and while the wool is bought at a certain price per grease pound, this price is determined from the price at which the buyer values the scoured wool. The shrinkage is a total loss to the mill, except where the solvent process is used (see Paragraph 27), and the mill must figure the cost of its finished product on the cost of the scoured wool. In most cases the wool buyer has to depend solely on his judgment, after carefully examining and 139 140 WOOL handling the wool, as to the amount of shrinkage. In addition to examining the wool the buyer is aided in estimating the shrinkage by knowing the average amount of shrinkage for the section for a number of years back, also the weather conditions, such as an open or severe winter, sand storms, drought, etc., and something of the breeding of the sheep producing the wool under consideration, as well as the care given the sheep by the owner. It is the business of the buyer to possess this information, which guides him in estimating the shrinkage. As a rule, wool buyers become so proficient in this respect-that they usually come within 1 per cent. of their estimated shrinkage, 112. Sample Lots Scoured to Ascertain Yield.—After the wool is received at the warehouses and graded the dealers frequently have sample lots scoured at a custom scouring plant in order to check up the estimated shrinkage. In many cases before buying from dealers the mills scour a sample lot consisting of one or more bags, as a test to determine the shrinkage, so the scoured cost of the wool will be definitely known. Fig. 70.—Wool Scouring Machinery. SHRINKAGE 141 Tests on the same lot of wool often vary from 1 to 3 per cent. One test lot may not be thoroughly cleaned. The principal cause of difference, however, is the condition of the wool when weighed after drying. If the scoured wool is weighed immediately after drying it will naturally weigh less than the same lot after standing several hours and regaining moisture. The first is known as a “hot test” and the latter as a “cold test.” Naturally the shrink- age figures higher with a hot test. 113. Practical Ilustrations.—As practical illustrations showing the variation in shrinkage for different grades and wools some of the “sorting tests” from the preceding chapter are given below. All the sorts were allowed to stand overnight after drying in order to furnish cold tests. Test Lot No. 1.—810 pounds sorted (loss in sorting 44 pounds) : 3%, Blood Territory Clothing Grease Scoured Per Cent, (Wyoming) Weight Weight Shrinkage No. 1 Sort, main sort, 34 blood.......... 606 lbs. 316 Ibs. 47.9% No. 2 Sort, high ILO OC mits coacaire te onsieaenin 35 lbs. 15 lbs. 57.1% No. 3 Sort, low sort, 4 blood and common. 125 Ibs. 70 lbs. 44.0% ne A ot Saeed BA re an oe Rone area i 766 lbs. 401 lbs. 50.5% * * Average percentage. 810 lbs. total grease weight. 401 lbs. total clean weight. 409 lbs. total loss in sorting and scouring. 409 of 100% = 50.5% average shrinkage from bag. 810 In order to find the clean cost per pound of the main sort a value must be estimated for the minor sorts. In placing a value on lots of this kind care must be taken not to place too high a ficure on them, and by so doing cause the main sort to figure at a much lower cost than it should. It is far safer to be conservative and undervalue the minor sorts. Consider the cost of the original wool at 35 cents per pound. The total cost of the wool amounts to $.85 K 810 = $283.50. 142 WOOL The value of No. 2 Sort is estimated at 75 cents per pound clean, and No. 3 Sort is placed at 60 cents. = $11.25 total clean cost No. 2 Sort. = $42.00 total clean cost No. 3 Sort. $53.25 combined clean cost of minor sorts. $283.50 purchase price of lot. $53.25 combined clean cost No. 2 and No. 3 Sorts. $230.25 cost of main sort, divided by 316 lbs., makes the clean cost per pound $.729. The average clean cost per pound for the entire lot is quickly found by dividing the purchase amount by the scoured weight of the lot. In this case it would be $283.50 divided by 401 pounds, giving $.707 as the average clean cost per pound for the entire lot. It must be remembered that these figures do not include any of the expense incurred by sorting, scouring and general expense. These charges are manufacturing costs and are kept separate from the cost of the wool. The sorting cost ranges from one- third of a cent to two cents per grease pound, according to the number and character of sorts required and the condition of the wool. The sorting cost is usually under a cent per pound. The scouring cost approximates 4% cent per scoured pound. Test Lot No. 2.—The second illustration is the mixed lot of territory wool. The net weight from the bag is 3577 pounds, and the mill paid 32 cents per pound: Grease Scoured Per Cent, Weight Weight Shrinkage No. 1 Sort, first main sort, 3 blood staple 914 lbs. 490 lbs. 46.4% No. 2 Sort, second main sort, 3g blood clothing 1,531 Ibs. 750 lbs. 51.0% No. 3 Sort, 44 blood clothing 358 lbs. 195 lbs. 45.5% No. 4 Sort, off sort, shorts, low 44 blood clothing 381 lbs. 180 lbs. 52.7% No. 265 lbs. 95 lbs. 64.2% DOO bey cn, choad ote one ha cee ca eo 3,449 lbs. 1,710 lbs. 5§2.2%* * Average percentage from bag, The loss of weight in sorting and scouring was 1867 pounds, which makes the average shrinkage for the lot 52.2 per cent. This lot of wool cost the mill $1144.64, which when divided by SHRINKAGE 143 the total weight of the scoured wool makes the clean cost per pound $.669. When the percentage of shrinkage and grease cost per pound are known, the quickest and easiest method of finding the clean cost per pound is to deduct the percentage of shrinkage from 100 per cent., the remainder being the percentage of scoured wool. Next divide this percentage into the grease cost per pound, and this multiplied by 100 per cent. gives the clean cost per pound. It is self-evident that a 25-cent wool shrinking 50 per cent. will cost 50 cents scoured. The five-sort lot above, with an average shrinkage of 52.2 per cent., and costing 32 cents per pound in the erease, makes a better illustration of the method; 100 per cent., less 52.2 per cent. shrinkage, gives 47.8 per cent. clean wool or yield; $.32 divided by the 47.8 per cent. and multiplied by 100 per cent. makes the clean cost per pound $.669. This is the same cost as found by the first method, which divided the total cost by the total scoured weight. In other words, the original grease pound has been reduced to A78 pound and therefore the original cost of $.32 now repre- sents .478 pound. It takes 2.09 + grease pounds to make one scoured pound; $.32 rs 65 nak 7 20.1 20.4 20.7 20.7 21.0 21.4 2 SHRINKAGE c c Continued c c c c c Cc c 145 c 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 3 Yoo} co a 4 -] NI 0 ~] abo Ome: bo b pw bd oN ww bo Oe PTD DH co bw bw wp dW wp bd po Ww > O1 OLD oe) t© bo bo bo no bo 2 O BD bo 44.0 44. > 28.8 29.2 29.7 30.1 30.6 4 21.8 31.0 30.4 29.7 29.0 28.3 27.6 26.9 26.2 25.5 24.8 24.2 23.5 30.0 29.2 28.6 27.9 27.2 28.2 28.6 29.0 29.4 27.5 28.0 28.4 28.8 26.9 27.3 27.7 28.1 26.2 26.7 27.1 27.5 25.6 26.0 26.4 26.8 25.0 25.4 25.7 26.1 26.5 24.3 24.7 25.1 25.5 25.8 23.7 24.0 24.4 24.8 25.2 23.0 23.4 23.8 24.1 24.5 22.4 22.8 23.1 23.5 23.8 22.1 22.4 22.8 23.1 31.5 30.8 30.1 29.4 28.7 28.0 27.3 26.6 25.9 25.2 on 00 31.9 31.2 30.5 29.8 29.1 28.4 27.6 26.9 26.2 25.5 24.8 24.1 23.4 Jo 55 56 =Y f 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 22.8 22.1 21.4 21.5 21.8 22.1 22.4 20.8 21.1 21.4 21.8 20.2 20.5 20.8 21.1 19.5 19.8 20.1 20.4 20.7 18.9 19.1 19.4 19.7 20.0 17.9 18.2 18.5 18.8 19.0 19.3 17.3 17.6 17.8 18.1 18.4 18.6 16.6 16.9 17.2 17.4 17.7 17.9 16.0 16.3 16.5 16.8 17.0 17.3 21.1 20.5 19.8 19.2 18.6 20.5 2 19.8 20.2 19.2 19.5 18.6 18.9 18.0 18.3 17.4 17.6 16.7 17.0 16.1 16.4 15.5 15.8 19.5 19.8 20.1 18.6 18.9 19.2 19.5 18.0 18.3 18.6 18.9 17.4 17.7 18.0 18.3 16:8 Lee RE 16.2 16.5 16.8 17.1 15.1 15.7 15.9 16.2 16.5 14.6 14.8 15.1 15.3 15.6 15.9 14.0 14.3 14.5 14.8 15.0 15.3 18.5 17.9 18.2 TAT 16.8 17.1 16.2 15.7 67 68 69 70 71 fir 73 74 75 22.7 22.0 21.3 3 20.6 19.6 20.1 18.9 19.2 18.2 18.4 ny aya ee: See po Ww es ee mw ip YY we pw — 71 bo —) ww 115. Approximate Shrinkages of Various Wools.—Preceding explanations have shown the reasons and conditions causing the wide range of shrinkages in various wools; and also account for different shrinkages from year to year in wools of the same erade and character from the same district. However, changes of the latter kind are never radical, and the average shrinkages for the various wools listed below afford a good relative comparison. It has been estimated that the average shrinkage of all United States wools is 55 per cent. The average shrinkage of our fine domestic fleeces has been estimated at 60 per cent, and the lower grade domestic wools average about 45 per cent. Fine territory wools average about 65 per cent. and the lower grades between 50 and 60 per cent. It is a well-known fact that territory wools, when shipped east, usually gain from 1 to 3 per cent in weight, owing to the air near the seaboard being more humid. Some wools from river bottom lands in the Mississippi and Ohio Valleys lose weight on shipment to the seaboard. 68 69 70 72 73 74 75 146 WOOL The average shrinkage of foreign wools has been estimated as follows: Australia, 49 per cent.; South Africa, 58 per cent.; South America, 51 per cent. These estimates are made on the wool in bulk, and not on the net condition after skirting, which is the usual condition of these wools as they come on the market. Skirting reduces the total shrinkage from 5 to 20 per cent. It must be remembered that the “average shrinkage” here men- tioned includes the total production with the variations in gerade which accompany it. The wools of Great Britain and Europe are estimated to shrink at 25 per cent. and 34 per cent. respectively, but these wools are fleece washed, which reduces the shrinkage from 15 per cent. to 20 per cent. Fleece washing is seldom practiced in this country. It is accomplished by submerging the sheep previous to shearing in a tank of water. Foreign matter, such as dirt and sand, and suint are thus removed from the wool, but the yolk remains and must be scoured out. 116. Approximate Shrinkages of United States Wools (Bulk). DOMESTIC TERRITORY Grade Shrinkage Grade Shrinkage Full blood and % blood........ 60% Fine and fine medium.......... 67% One-haliiplood: soe inc ee. ae Re 62% Three-eighths blood ............ 46% Three-eighths blood ............ 54% One-quarter blood ............. 43% One-quarter blood ............. 48% CPO 8S Se ie Bat ORO es 38% CNT i Baas io a SEs ects 43% 117. Approximate Shrinkages of Choice Australian, South African, South American and New Zealand Skirted Wools (Net). Geelong Queensland’ West Aust. Cape of Riverina Sydney Adelaide South Good Hope New Grade Port Phillip New South America South Zealand Victoria South Wales Australia Africa OG (45 GRR \ae eae: 48% 50% 55% 58% 60% 55% GO-GG8 CRN. ots aca 47% 49% 53% 56% 58% 52% 54-60s (1% blood) ....40% 40% 44% 48% 54% 40% 48-54s (3, blood) ....36% 37% 40% 40% 50% 35% 44-48s (%4 blood) ....32% 34% 38% 38% 46% 30% 40-44s (low 1%4).....29% 31% 36% 35% 44% 26% 36-40s (common) ...26% 28% 31% 32% 40% 23% SHRINKAGE 147 118. Approximate Shrinkages of Important British Fleece Washed Wools (Net). PART UIA M30) 0.0 aah ais alacclince vekathays, tet 20% SV OMS MDG nis rks rida ley: fae 25% JIS Y 255 ke re pn gre rods > 20% Pam pebane 556 a eo ae OLE UEN 01 Ci ee eee ee ON MC oar es Seed 20% "Oro Cp 117 Coe ay NUN CAL amen Sai Ect 25% BAST He choos ghaes: so oka seine 20% Doxseten OFM ys sok oe ee OU MIB RRERR ech at ght el acest, nace dace eee eetd 18% OHEVIOLE baht sec te ah ee aes Sees 25% SOMEHOW on tac o oblearen tenure 119. Shrinkage of Various United States Wools—A good idea of the character of wool grown and average shrinkage in various States can be obtained from the following list: Shrinkage Pennsylvania, West Virginia and Ohio, XX and X..................56-62% Tndraria: a anys He: DIOGO oe: oa el melee he Tatra eretate cote rege oh cinta Neder aee Als 38-43% DNiOle sta. ANG: SE DIOR, 53's 26 Virginia (a)...... 27 North Dakota (a). STATES 1900 1910 1920 STATES 1 New Mexico..... : eo ee ee i 2 Montana ........ i> Ea ee eee 2 3 Wyoming ....... New Mexico...... . 3 Wd es an California ........ 4 tae a hic ata PI ae ° 6 Oregon .........- Gregan ess re, 6 D LOMANG 65's alate nace P | WI: peice aula os 7 SB hay iss oe Ss cle OPTION ies sei hee Bee 8 a galamint 220 Colorado ......... 9 10 California ....... Montana ......... 10 ti Midhigun 2230.2 Missourd |.) 6S yeas. oe 11 18 Alesis Michigan: | 400.:.3% 12 16. eae Baek Arinone so 5 Hea a5 13 14 Pennsylvania .... Nevada ......ee8: 14 15 Washington ..... RORVENG hors che eere tla 15 16 Wisconsin ....... South Dakota.....16 17 Indiana ......... Kentucky ........ 17 TS: INGVEOB 4's co2cs wis Indiana .......... 18 LO Milinote 6 ess ee LDU E CTS | iris Pa paepreeo 19 20) Bawa cf. hie esss Washington ...... 20 21 Missouri ........ INOW. MORE Gis. tc 6 als 21 22 Kentucky ....... Nebraska (b)...... 22 23 West Virginia.... West Virginia.....23 24 Minnesota ....... Minnesota ........ 24 Pennsylvania .....25 Wisconsin ........ 26 Tennessee (b)..... 27 (a) Among the first 27 States in 1900 and 1910, but not in 1920. (b) Among the first 27 States in 1920 only. TABLE L CoMPARATIVE CHART oF Unrrep STATES WooL AND SHEEP STATISTICS, 1901-1920 Compiled by Philadelphia Wool and Textile Association NUMBER OF SHEEP, SHEARING AGE 1900] | eee + 1,900,000 1906 38,540,000 1911 39,481,000 1915 36,600,000 ee —E—— 39,025,000 DOMESTIC WOOL PRODUCTION 1901 1906 298,000,000 191] 318,000,000 1915 288,000,000 a 277,905,000 302,000,000 Pounds “e ce APPENDIX VALUE OF PRODUCT 1901 $51,000,000 1906 $80,000,000 1911 $67,000,000 1915 $85,000,000 1920 $113,000,000 ESTIMATED CONSUMPTION 1901 400,000,000 Pounds 1906 491,000,000 Pounds 1911 510,000,000 Pounds 1915 591,000,000 Pounds 1920 516,041,442 Pounds TABLE M WooL PRODUCTION OF THE WORLD ACCORDING TO THE LATEST AVAILABLE REPORTS AND ESTIMATES Country Pounds NorrH AMERICA: 266,110,000 15,539,416 281,649,416 780,000 750,000 Total Central America and West Indies 1,530,000 SouTtH AMERICA: Argentina 22- 297,000,000 Brazil 92% 23,800,000 38,500,000 860,000 10,000,000 3,200,000 Uruguay 22 92,000,000 All other see 5,000,000 Total South America 470,360,000 EUROPE: Austria 1,322,760 Belgium 826,725 Bulgaria J 25,000,000 Czechoslovakia 4,303,000 Denmark, 3,508,000 Esthonia 3,150,000 Finland 7,500,000 France 41,777,000 APPENDIX Country Year EuRorE—Continued: RO PIMIANIY Sed alates ph ctoU Tn rohaa etoe piers te 1922 Oy ote cy Ri ay fa eter cae ae SR LN Ur ai eRe [o A BRIN RY SP oe bie ete at og cinurets Rintte sane ale WeartT Os 1923 BR hc FS nate < wcneh RAN Fa OT ae ale 1922 PQGyVlAs oli ais 3G Kee Ors RE ee Pig atc EAT 1923 Nether andar ie. scastetie Baoe hake oe ceeroain ct acon INOUE Viena tiaisiared ataihh iaiheanet ate sie aia’ Ale OH eters 1923 Porta kOe Se ae fag a) rea eae ee 1923 POPE cae ad oh iohinrecn ne CAN EN A 1923 FUOUIMO WIS PS cdc ee oe chariot ee eee oe at um otra 1923 Oe T1705 0 Ream Ria SA AER I a tape le ADIOS eR ah 1923 RE is Sab are iy Par SIE a eae Oe ee 1922 od A210 Ca | RRO RS OO ae yr SO RRS Re FST RU Tk AAI ets PSPC OTM a fats pnic ven ee ee a ae 1923 SMe DOM on hee ee ke Pewee eae 1923 PRET C5 Flaca. 4 kin gE yw a Week an atten 1921 NL 0h) i A PE RG NPM IS : POUR OTA is), ie hie eek ve oe ¥S age ASIA: ESET UTAH NG 1a slack atk nile ae ety toa ae ncaa 1923 CRIES fe ec onaeh: eres eG gui een Ra ie lene ee TN mtg 1923 MRE SS 2a en SES hives watt ae ets ehem lati 6 1923 UES ReERCS rye Bela Sai hak Repel AN Sahat i, EA oti tee a 1923 FRIESS IG ADL AS ere kate ea as oie uote iar ama acy 1923 HURON AN PASIAN sor cant. ei eee ke sea atau elgins AEE OBROT oo Menke epoca erae ain Sea aNE aaete Foes PROCRL MASI chap est tape cae calinhe hig econ ee rakey oe a AFRICA: EON cab ak $8 Kee Hh ae CEs hei oe RT ee 1922 My Gos 0s ok Seateg ee css we Ie Ee ka widta vs 1921 MOTE CM UAE. clean rae RUSSIAS tke ee aves 1923 dl Tat ac: Aa Pe Tat Sirah ee skin ial At Saat oan ed id DRign Ob South Africas. ot caks hat ee noe 1922-23 ULAGUDER!) 2 ho ite le hataa shane wate ee naire a SUN GEULs Ak LOO Va Sashes Sure ners ity a eek We cate tan de OCEANIA: UeURESYG WLC RRR ORNs ON aig MA gh oe as neg li UBER eEe 1922-2 INOW CANAD chek tinee ea ence Oot ee 6 oes 1922-2 LOU) SATISUNRIASID theo soe oe A SOGHOE Sy wet. we Vetus Pee eed eet Qe Am Rotel. OMGa rae... een oder ie cette MOURA VROT oat 6 ook cle oiaale tis moeme ce 215 Pounds 48,501,000 13,000,000 13,779,000 58,000,000 2,700,000 5,100,000 5,200,000 5,839,000 6,000,000 52,910,000 87,465,000 90,364,000 2,700,000 780,000 102,300,000 35,000,000 100,000 617,125,485 65,000,000 78,000,000 72,276 18,000,000 45,000,000 60,000,000 1,000,000 267,072,276 35,155,000 4,500,000 19,976,000 6,765,000 176,000,000 25,000,000 267,396,000 600,931,156 214,705,920 815,637,076 70,000 815,707,076 2,720,840,253 APPENDIX Lc) eREENWICH LONGITUDE EAST FRO i) Fie. 84.—Map of World—Geographic Distribution of Sheep and Sources of Wool. ~ ENWICH ° . | 542 his Frome 6RE! | LONGITUDE i PRES | TPS 217 G3| be'-88" 1z'| 8er-Le" | APPENDIX se 69° €s v9 LS” 08” L9° AIC AT RG Co tite Ee ee ee * preag ale Oem COGp © spec e e-CTe i, o> Be) Ose ee poo[q Vas “eee ee ew eee é) 0, 2 = ©9288 "-""* poortq % : (peysvauy ) vuvipuy pue AyonzUeyy win ld a's cis ie Waepace es wt etinreleehre sUuTv[Oq IIT Lviecsp edd sad ial ate RR te a Meee poolq % Skea aah Siena ease Wales Teter diene Ghats poorq 8% MTOR rE ey ee Cee poolq % “PP Heese i Oa oe “> gurg > (peyseauy ) ‘Oyo “YIOK MON “UISMODSTAA “UBSTYDITT ergs i eee eo ee ay ee oul y > (poysevamuy ) BIUISITA SOA, pus viuvaTAsuUeg ‘oOLYO N WIdVi “EZ6L-EI6L “AAAOLOO ‘NOLSOg NI STOOM OILSANOG 40 SHOIMg FALLVavdNop *SMOT[OF YOIYM [Gv OY} UL UMOYS av SIvad UAA[I 4SBI AY} OF 10q0}0O UT sTooM orjsemOp jo seotid uoysog 8e°- Le €h'-GP 8h-LF ‘JoyIvUL oy} UL 213711 INA + re-ee'| ge-Le'| TL-0L" 09°-8¢°| 8Eé'T g9°-€9° 08-81" eg'-¢8" 06°-88" a9'-09" 49°-8¢° Ol OF 9g 1 ST St ral OL T cs'T 00°% OFT O9'l Ost sie gg-G 0L°-S9 GY -8é g¢’-0¢" GL°-89° ¢9°-09° ¢s°-08" g¢’-0¢° 09°-¢¢" GL-OL ‘pejonb JOU 9peID » cy -&v 6s =08° Olt CS 1-02 I 0s 06° Ol STI 0€'T Ch" -06" 06° Olt-s6° | OLT OL I-GO'L| Stl ( poysvauy)) | uLYINOG pue V1B1094) € “ON G ON | “ON Iseq pothoosg ) ODTXOT MON “uNIpeul suy pue sug poolq pool[q “+ poolq % ° Suty}O[O **tuntpeut ouy pue ou ‘atdeyg > (SISRq painoag) ‘aja ‘uose1Q “oyepyT “YrI ‘Suro A, “VuRZUOPY—[OOA, AIOZLIIO J, ouy ‘“[[e@y euy ‘ouridg ouy ‘syjuoUu ZI : (SISBQ PoeINOdS ) BLIULOFI[ BS) “‘unIpeul ouy pue ouy “[[ey “-wnIpeut ouy pue ouy ‘suradg OS'T ec’-o¢" OL'T 00°T 29°-09" 09° G¢ 9°-¢ [ CLIT 89°- 19" | Ost 743 I 0Z'T “uINIpeul ou puw oUYy ‘st|ZUOUL ZT (sIseq PoIno0dg) SBxXdOT, a Atte plete 09° “£3 ea Ver en enercbetar sts r= Regia % 09° * fp GErKG poolq %; (peyseauy) ) LIGT SI6T 6L6T 6 26 5 516 Teer STOUTT[] PUB BMOT “TNossty ponurjuog— N ATAVL ee Propucrion oF Raw Woo. IN PRINCIPAL WoOoL PRODUCING CoUNTRIES, Union of South Africa... . 176,000,000 APPENDIX TABLE O 219 1923. LIBIGEG VO CRUER. a6 cc Seiseru ris 266,110,000 PANGHUDOINE, sic Se ences 4 oa ete 600,931,156 Continent of Europe Wee Sealand s+ aviets fescster 214,705,920 (Fleece washed) . 514,825,485 Argentil Uinibeitaiyee sisters ee Pak La Pa Sealer 297,000,000 United Kingdom 92,000,000 (Fleece washed) TABLE P 102,300,000 NUMBER OF SHEEP IN THE WorLD ACCORDING TO THE LATEST AVAILABLE REPORTS AND ESTIMATES, 1923 FROM NATIONAL ASSOCIATION WOOL MANUFACTURERS’ ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW NORTH Country \MERICA : United States; -Comtinenta ls osc esisccsrsicte vies k Noncontiguous, except Philippine Islands... Hawa Porto DB gs cue each, oh haber h: a1 Red ahmed enn Bice ab pis an aks LED R EE a Grabs Spies A Ety ieee anita eat, SR NIeUR IOS ue ROCA LACIE WS GAUGED cai. ea ie moss 53s ea VSB oe Wea ERCR aay uv ts atte charatscas toe Wa es 1.08 Spring Middle Counties ....... L18%; Walle defeotyay 7:27 jer lis tetazers Sym seo 0) 1.03 Southern. 12 °mes. rites De B63 MC BOUIZOOM Frc ihe stone sepa eeei'e ns ena 1.15 MontTaNa, WYOMING AND IpAHO (Scoured Basis) Staple, fine and fine medium... 130 % |S) (ctov Mage eemnn oritaty sri k tre Cicee .95 Clothing, fine and fine medium.. 1.15 %4 DIGOQ SF. Gta ele oie eles Se 85 TE DIGOG, taianeeiteds sre ons eden ele oh al 1.15 New Mexico AND Cotorapo (Scoured Basis) VOW aS vtech erie crea ienane ater cae Mas TEARS SHINGLE Ob arta ritennsete Maton aie wence mune areca .80 1 (0 ly” abe Nem are rote ec Ns Sanat eR 1.10 Nevapa, Ura AND Arizona (Scoured Basis) Staple, fine and fine medium.... 1.30 % blood ......-.--+ssss+eeees .95 Clothing, fine and fine medium.. 1.15 %4 blood ...........eeseeerees 85 A LOGU eS vate eel ukie tenon eels 1,15 GEORGIA AND SOUTHERN STATES (CUrweened ous Ui. ).'s baie es ss costs 48 DaKoTas AND Minnesota (Scoured Basis) Staple, fine and fine medium... 1.30 % blood ......-..+++-+seeeees 95 Clothing, fine and fine medium.. 1.15 % blood ......-..-+esseeeeees 85 RES DIOOG toicins t aeccistie ts taneceaicrsie E15 OREGON (Scoured Basis) Staple, fine and fine medium.... PiSOl Be loo dirs ey ee aielitie ale) cuanto 9) ai 95 Clothing, fine and fine medium.. 1.15 4 blood ........--++++e++e> 85 Me PORES Se ai ofa. v7 ee 6% Dip 0 oO T.15 PuLtepD Woots (Eastern Scoured Basis) BSBNRE NG, 8 cc Saar este te ants ales eaen tetera ee VOB. MW ING y COMINGS. cs 62: wecete new & «lee 1.10 MOTE. fg: s oN nce vs ance CP aaieee 1.13 Medium combing ..........--- 97 EM MEPOR’ sal casewtsteyAene sii tae lerele) ee 1.00. ) (160) SOFT WASTES Fine white Australian Fine white card waste, lap waste........... 1.35 @1.40 dusted Fine white lap waste..1.30 @1.35 Medium white card Fine colored lap waste..1.10 @1.15 waste, dusted Medium colored lap Colored card waste, waste 65 @ .70 fine, clean Fine white Australian TINS Waste. 55204 1.20 @1.25 Fine white ring waste.1.20 @1.25 Australian white card waste, dusted : @ .62 Colored card waste, medium APPENDIX (162) GARNETTED YARN WASTE Free fine colored thread WOPSGOU 5/540 i vistomere 54 1% blood white thread WOLDRUEG! i oa Cee ces 85 Y% blood white thread WOLKGOG so cso cent a 75 Fine white Australian thread waste ...... 1.05 Fine white thread WABEGY veces ucts eugene ame 1.00 White carpet thread WEUSEO itis tales: tek aoecae eee Fine worsted clips 13 Worsteds: Griese) soos Jats. aera haere aly Fine dark 15 107 511 eee ar BP Sa 2 Black and white.... .25 Worsteds and Serges: WVU 20 sees tare eae 54 SAATIB See he Ss ilar) rage fs .26 (BoE Ved ER aver ret ree 27 POT OME Me hectiareik the alate 32 Ohi SPTOBN eshte 6 BAIS as aoec ees Ae arene ts 13 OS i Ga eed .10 rBEN) Soe eRe oe eee 14 bight: Brenehisyit2 203 24 Fine black and white.. .20 Mixed Mackinaws .... .06 Mixed overcoatings 04 Brown chinchillas and and cheviots ....... 08 Blue chinchillas and cheviots RRA |! Black chinchillas and GUBVIOUS. 450 a aae kines ane) Fine colored thread @ .58 Wste ko’ is Aware 35 Medium colored thread @ .92 We ti) actrncaacroenns 26 White spinners’ waste, @ .80 MEONNT 8 hs aia, aseins : Colored spinners’ waste, @112 WRORSY Sis aye ves vos Colored carpet yarn @1.07 EES Sle dacactats Wh iA anak 25 Low carpet yarn waste. .22 @ .42 (167) RAGS (May, 1923) NEw WOOLEN RaAGs @ .16 Foreign clothing clips. .14 MeEn’s WEAR CLIPS @ 18 LVOW IE: “4 ities Sate ew eae 25 @ .16 PRTG Sort totavethn ane ok vier eesens 25 @ .22 IAC ear Pe oe ee oe .30 @ .26 | 6 > 21 Peewee tas ober erat 18 LapIES’ WEAR CLIPs @ .56 DAE POOME 2) eke aad, etale 30 @ 28 BOM ie pope k ven es 20 @ .28 SE: Oe aa ACE PENS Ba 34 @ .33 Tniphtie Dine eerie x sere .28 .09 Maxed darko sich tele 10 FLANNELS @ .14 AUR Se 9/8 Wares le are ee .26 @ .11 IAOUEY 2S loreta dessa Rix ends Bs .09 @ .15 STD sic ah apacanene arose Oe 34 @ 25 CLOTH @ .22 Pine Ate cis scare ee et 18 HEAVY CLips @ .07 OxtOrds” Gricarancy ws hee 10 @ .05 Black and white ..... 14 Mixed lights....:..... .09 @ .09 White chinchillas 16 BPOwR GHA: epee: 10 i SUNS WARS ate ocho cath cts, ves .08 @ .12 233 @ .40 @ .30 .30 22, @ .380 @ .26 @ .15 @ .30 @ .30 @ .32 @ .20 @ .32 @ .22 @ .36 @ .30 @ .12 @ .27 @ .10 @ .35 @ .20 @ .12 @ .16 @ .10 @ .18 @ .12 @ .10 234 APPENDIX Cotton Warp CLIips Serges, black and white 13 Black cloakings .10 Serges, light 12 Blue cloakings 10 Palm Beach 12 Brown cloakings 10 Delaines, mixed colored .08 Mixed cloakings .07 Black astrakhans .... 10 Dark unions. 6303.42. 0444@ .05 Mixed astrakhans .... 10 AME: AIIONG tit oso 05 @ .05% GOVERNMENT CLIPs Indigo , @ .32 RAE cos S 9 boa gir tan ei Phere, Oe Khaki : @ .36 OxLp WooLeNn Rags Merinos: Linseys: BANG ISG oes cssha es etd 20 Coarse light 07 Fine dark .06 Coarse dark .03 Fine black 14 2) Red flannel 08 Best. plaida . oi.05... 25; ; Best brown Best blue ORORORORO) Light yarn, extra fine... .! erges : : Serg Light yarn, worsted..... : MUR OING sich c ok 053 alone go 14 Brown 15 .07 .06 14 All ®® ® Dark mixed, extra fine and free from cotton and silk Dark mixed, No. 2 @. @ 3 @. @. @. @. Medium to coarse grades, ali wool yarn... 2. : 19 Flannels: Fine white ®® @® Red flannel, all wool ... .20 Red knit stock, strictly Coarse white : all wool .28 White No. 2 . No. 1 dark blue hosiery, strictly all wool .18 Blue i No. 2, same, not all wool. .12 ®® © Fine dark merino, all wool, No. 1 Medium dark merino, all wool, No. 2 Medium dark merino, not extracted Medium dark merino, all wool Knit: NYATELEEG ig tie Aa apne mR Blue, dark Bines Sot ise ets ss ; Blue, mixed Black, trimmed .... . Black, untrimmed .. : Fine light merino, all Fine black merino, all ORORORORORORORORO) Light DUBE PPAY: (ocak wie coal Warlet Sse each aaa, E HANGY shite ne vows othe { SY Medium light merino, all wool ®Oe® Medium light merinos, Hood extracted oods: Light ® ® ® To order: Olives, all Delaines: wool, fine Skirted ; : Blues, all wool ® © Skirted worsteds: APPENDIX SKIRTED CLOTHS Skirted cloth: EA ORG eck a tats ener 07 @ 07% Mine ub > s.r e aches .05 @ 05% BiRGE ool ss See 06 @ .06% "BV ed 0 ites OD mana Ry rE 044% @ .05 ARGT Sos ike ee eee .05%@ .06 EMIT Mises “o sdede ian ve. eae oe .03 @ .03% EPICA etches horas) ssonets 04 @ 04% Plain black. 32h .i'. .03 @ .03% Brown cs. G one 07 @ 07% iD vad ee eee ie ana iene 021%,@ .03 Skirted, tan kersey 15 @ .16 Skirted, tan covert ... .18 @ .20 (168) SHODDY, MUNGO AND EXTRACT WOOL White softs, “mixed,” all New blue worsteds, fine. .42 @ .44 WOOL rian hs wiciip ts sivas 56 @ 60 New light worsteds, fine. .29 @ .32 White softs, all wool.... .62 @ .64 Fine white worsteds, gar- Coarse light merinos, all IPE] FLA) 0k: Lane ee SEP Nia .0 @ .55 WRG Saar. cy staevarstrena a 21 @ .22 yy blood white worsted Fine light merinos, all WarMetteds fe. Saves, oe 60 @ .65 WOO oietenale eh sroiete seas 36 @ .37 3, blood white worsted Coarse dark merinos, all PATNOCERAS 0:45.24 8 She ceus 53 @ .b5 WOOL ..... ee ee eee eee 12 1% blood white worsted Dark worsteds, all wool. .16 @ .18 CRENGUCCGR! are 6 et egienes .55 @ .60 Black worsteds, all wool. .28 @ .24 Colored garnetteds ...... 56 @ .58 New black worsteds, fine. .43 @ 44 Fine Oxford garnetteds.. .58 @ .60 Light worsteds, all wool. .22 @ .25 FLOCKS Fulling flocks, white.... .09 @-.10 Blanket flocks, good Fulling flocks, colored .. .06 @ .07 straight white ....... 05 -@ .06 Napper flocks, white .... . 08 @.10 Shear flocks ........... 01 @ .02 Napper flocks, colored 05 @ .06 Imports oF NoiLs, WASTES, Woot Racs, Frocks ann MunGo By Monrus, FiscaL YEAR ENDED JUNE 30, 1923 Wool Rags, Flocks Fiscal Year Noils Wastes (a) and Mungo July 1-June 30, | 1922-1923 : ae ear Us eee it Quantity | Value Quantity Value Quantity Value Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars July 1 to Sept. 1, Rete cues ass apse P22 BSB: Vee desi oe ceo tekvaliamovanar anaeere 17,851,682) 2,277,570 OetOOST 25 ie nd costes 1,517,438} 710,050} 1,321,447) 570,935) 1,507,842; 233,375 November! =>. sc. 2,375,091) 1,187,061 478,271} 232;807 450,541; 104,492 December ........ 2,127,466) 1,132,723) 1,047,650; 519,845 507,926; 168,160 AUUOT Yas. siete ces 1,157,559| 572,680] 1,129,430) 522,344 984,469) 251,474 PGDEMaTy: jo )o3:: £45 947,733; 535,464) 823,763} 427,800; 921,193) 228,779 March 1,885,469) 1,047,295) 1,250,333) 656,381 2,396,761) 620,386 2 2) i | Reo a oe 1,115,769} 699,135] 1,138,650) 580,022) 1,875,652) 485,785 1! ED ea aT 915,398) 694,473] 631,368) 324,616 963,810) 253,390 REIGN tis Wisbellats niaig 433,893; . 333,986) 523,423) 280,443 555,433) 174,792 POUT yy ietioe.s kee 12,698,401) 7,056,304] 8,344,335) 4,115,193 | 28,015,309) 4,798,203 a Wastes not reported separately prior to October, + Not possible to give monthly totals. * September 22 to October 31. GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED ADELAIDE Woots.—Most of the wools from the State of South Australia are sold in Adelaide, and are known as Adelaide wools. ANTHRAX.—Both men and animals are subject to this infec- tious disease, which develops a virulent ulcer and high fever. It localizes in the skin or lungs and sometimes in the intestines. It is not always fatal. When confined to the skin alone a cure is usually effected. This disease is also known as black-leg and wool-sorters’ disease. ASTRAKHAN.—(a) This name is given to a grade of Karakul | lambskins. The astrakhans are less lustrous, have longer hair and a much more open curl than the first grade of Karakul lambskins, which are known as Persian lamb. The name is taken from a province of that name bordering on the Caspian Sea, in the southeastern part of European Russia. (b) The name is also applied to woven and knitted imitations of natural astrakhan. Mohair and luster wool yarns are used to give the luster. Basy Compina Woou.—Short, fine staple wools usually under 2.5 inches, and treated by the French comb in the manufacture of French-spun worsted yarns. Betty Woou.—That which grows on the belly of the sheep. It is often uneven and tender, and is always shorter than wool from other parts of the body. It is often stained and dungy. Biack Toprep.—This term describes the effect produced by Merino fleeces containing a large amount of yolk which collects and holds dirt and dust. Brack Woor.—The term includes any wool that is partially or wholly black, brown or gray. Borany Woou.—All fine Australian wools are better known in Great Britain as Botany wools, and the term is used exten- sively in the United States. The name is taken from the harbor called Botany Bay, which is located on the eastern coast of 236 GLOSSARY 237 Australia, south of Sydney, in the State of New South Wales. The district adjacent to this bay is noted for the production of fine wools. Braprorp System.—This is also known as the English Sys- tem. It is one of the methods of producing worsted yarns. The spinning is performed on cap frames. The thread is smooth compared with woolen yarn and the fibers parallel. Brarp Woor.—Grade name. Also known as luster wool. BREAK IN Woor.—Wool which is weak at one particular point of the staple, but sound above and below the break. BrRIGHTNEsS.—Wool of light appearance. Brirtcu Woot.—Wool from the hindquarters of the sheep; usually the coarsest on the body. Broap.—A straight-fibered, non-elastic wool. Broap Tary.—The grade of Karakul lambskin lower than astrakhan is known as broad tail. Broad-tail skins are taken from lambs prematurely born. Their hair is shorter than that on Persian lambskins, and instead of being tightly curled it is swirled, and exhibits a very attractive wavy pattern. Woven fabrics manufactured to imitate the broad-tail effect are usually called karakul or caracul in the trade. Practically the same as fat-tailed sheep. Broab-TAILED SHEEP. BrokEN Woou.—That which has become detached or been torn from the fleece. Broxes.—Short wool found around the edges of the belly and neck. BrusHep Woo1s.—This term is only applicable to pulled wools, and is taken from the scrubbing or brushing process, which removes burrs, sand, dirt and other foreign substances from the fleeces. This brushing process takes place while the wool is still a part of the pelt. Bucx.—A male goat used for breeding. Buck Fireces.—Fleeces shorn from rams, Burrs.—Heavy dungy locks. Butts and tags are the same. Care Woors.—These wools are produced in British South 238 GLOSSARY Africa, and are also known as South African wools, The name was first given to the wools produced in Cape Colony, which in turn was named from the Cape of Good Hope. Caracuut.—This is another spelling for Karakul. CarBonizED Woo.t.—That which has been treated with a solu- tion of sulphuric acid to remove the vegetable matter. Carbon- izing is more commonly practiced with clothing wools. Carpinc.—Consists of opening the wool staples, separating the fibers to a certain extent, condensing and delivering the opened wool in a continuous strand or sliver. Carpina Woors.—Wools best adapted by their short length for processing on the woolen system, Carper Woor.—Low, coarse wool, usually obtained from native, unimproved sheep and used in the manufacture of car- pets. There is very little produced in the United States. Casinc.—To separate and pack fleeces of the same quality in bales or sacks. Cuaracter.—A true, sound stapled wool with evenness of quality and regularity of crimp and serrations. Crassinc.—A term used in Australia for grading fleeces after they have been skirted. CLorHine Woors.—Same as carding wools. Croupy Woor.—Such wool shows the presence of discolorations in the fleece on various parts of the body. It is usually due to rain dripping down on sheep from leaky roofs, irregular and uneven exposure, or inheritance. It is seldom found in the fleeces from range sheep. Cotp Trst.—Shrinkage tests are known as cold tests when the scoured wool is allowed to stand several hours after drying in order to regain moisture. CotontAL Woors.—This term is applied to the wools of Austra- lia, New Zealand and South Africa. CrurcHines.—Colonial term for pieces. CompBinc.—An operation in worsted manufacture which straightens the fibers, and separates the short, weak and tangled GLOSSARY 239 fibers known as noils from the continuous strand of long, parallel fibers known as top. Comping Woou.—That which is best adapted for making worsted yarns. Comresack.—In America this refers to a wool fine in quality and having more length than would ordinarily be expected. In Australia, it is the result of breeding crossbreds back toward pure Merinos, one of the parents being a pure-blood Merino. ConcorprA Woor.—Located in Argentina on the Uruguay River is the city of Concordia. It is the main shipping point for the wools grown in northern Uruguay and contiguous territory in Argentina. Conprrion.—Refers to the dégree of oil in grease wool. It largely regulates the price. In scoured wool it is used to indicate the degree of moisture. Correp Freece.—A cotted fleece is one in which the fibers close to body are matted or tangled. This condition may be caused by ill health of the sheep, such as a fever, or the absence of the proper amounts of yolk or grease in the wool. ‘These fleeces are often produced by very old sheep with low vitality. Cow-Tait.—A very coarse fleece, or exceptionally coarse britch wool. More like hair than wool. Crrmp.—The natural waviness of the wool fiber. Uniformity and abundance of crimp indicate superior wool. The term crimp is sometimes applied only to Merino wools where the waves are frequent and sharply defined, leaving the term waviness to describe other wools not possessing this feature to such a high degree. Crossprep.—The offspring resulting from mating a ram and ewe of different breeds, usually a Merino ewe, with a long-wool ram. Crossprep Woors.—Wools obtained from crossbred sheep. Curts.—Sheep which are below a required standard. Dam.—Same as ewe. Damp Wooi.—When stordd in a.damp epndition veo: becomes, cece esece esece 240 GLOSSARY discolored and turns yellow. This cannot be removed by scourin e ’ and prevents its use in white yarns, thereby lowering its value. Pronounced forms of mildew are liable to develop and weaken the wool, lowering its spinning properties. Derective.—Denotes that something will show disadvan- tageously after the wool is scoured. Fire, water, vegetable matter or moths may cause defective wools. California burry wool is quoted as defective. Drareased Woot.—Wool from which the grease and dirt have been extracted by the naphtha process. Demi-Luster.—Wool that is not sufficiently lustrous or bright to be classed or graded with pure-bred luster wool. DeLaInE Woor.—Delaine originally referred to a fine type of women’s dress goods. Delaine wools are fine combing wools from Ohio and vicinity, but not necessarily confined to the Delaine Merino. Denstty.—The number of fibers produced on a given area of the sheep’s body. The more numerous the fibers the greater the density. DepILatory.—An application used to take off hair. The com- pound used in wool pulling usually consists of sodium sulphide, sulphuric acid and oyster shells. The latter yield lime. Dor.—A female goat. Domestic Woor.—(a) General meaning includes all wools grown in this country as distinguished from foreign wools, (b) In a strict sense wools grown in this country, east of the Rockies, ‘and raised under farming conditions. Downricuts.—In England this term is applied to the short wool obtained from the neck portion of the fleece. Down Woots.—Wools produced by the British down breeds of sheep, such as the Southdown, Hampshire, Shropshire, ete. Downy Wootrs.—Very soft to the touch. EasterN Putitep Woors.—Pulled wools obtained from the slaughter, houses of the Rast, therefore domestic wools are supe- ees ° ee © e ee e, Ce0e, ea e ¢ eve ‘ wee e ¢ GLOSSARY 241 rior to the Western pulled wools which are principally territory wools. Ewer.—A female sheep. Extract Wooxr.—Recovered wool fiber obtained from rags containing a percentage of cotton. Fatt Woor.—Wool shorn in the fall, and represents a five to six months’ growth, and is the second shearing in the year. Far-Tartep SuHEerp.—These sheep are common sheep and native to Asia, Asia Minor, Russia and the Balkan States. The fat, which is secured from the enormous tails of these sheep, is the most valuable product of the carcass. The fleeces are un- usually kempy and grade as carpet wools. FeLLMONGERING.—A term used to describe the removal of wool from sheep pelts. Freitinc.—The property wool possesses of matting or felting together. Firtine (Werr).—Threads that run crosswise in cloth and fill in between the warp interlacings. Fiat-TArLeD SHEEP.—Similar to fat-tailed sheep. Fierce.—The coat of wool which covers a sheep, or that is shorn from a sheep at one time, usually representing one year’s erowth. Frocxs.—Short waste fibers obtained from cloth in fulling, napping and shearing. Frree.—This term is used to indicate the absence of defects. The usual meaning is free from burrs, Frencu SystemM.—This method of processing produces worsted yarn from shorter staple wool than the Bradford System. It is usually mule spun. The yarn is softer, bulkier and loftier than Bradford yarn. No twist is introduced in the processes preceding actual spinning. Frrps.—Short and dirty locks of small size. Dungy bits of wool and second cuts. Frowsy Woou.—A lifeless-appearing wool with the fibers lying 242 GLOSSARY more or less topsy-turvy. The opposite of lofty wool. Usually dry and harsh. GARNETTED Stock.—Recovered fiber obtained by treatment of garnett machine on rags or thread waste. GRADE.—(a) The quality or relative fineness of the wool. (b) Sheep of mixed blood, showing no particular breed character- istics. The term is also applied to crossbred sheep. GrapDING.—Classifying the fleeces according to fineness and length of staple and availability for the various mill require- ments without untying the string. GreAs—E Woo.t.—Wool as it comes from living sheep with the grease still in it. Grirry.—Wool containing an excessive quantity of sand or erit. GumMy FrLeece.—This is due to the coagulated yolk, and is often caused by shearing the fleece while damp. Hair.—Usually straight, non-elastic and glossy. Stronger, smoother and usually coarser than wool. Lacks felting prop- erties. Hatr-Compine Woors.—Medium wools such as produced by the British down breeds were at one time widely known as half- combing wools. Harp Wastrs.—These are also known as yarn waste, thread waste and hard ends. The spinning, spooling, winding, warp dressing and weaving departments are the principal contributing sources for hard wastes. Hoc or Hoaeerr Woor.—English term for the first fleece shorn from a sheep about one year old. Naturally finer and longer than wether wools and classes a trifle higher. “Hot-Housr” Lamss.—This term is given to lambs dropped in the fall and winter. They are also known as winter lambs. Hor Trst.—This is the name applied to a shrinkage test when the scoured wool is weighed immediately after drying. KarakuL.—(a) A breed of sheep native to Bokhara in Cen- tral Asia. Important owing to the valuable fur produced on the GLOSSARY 243 lambskins. (b) Woven fabrics made to imitate natural broad- tail are termed karakuls in the trade. The name “karakul” is taken from the village of Kara Kul (black lake), in the eastern part of Bokhara. Kemp.—Dead fibers, chalky white and without luster. Larger diameter than surrounding wool fibers. \ Resists dyestuffs and is deficient in felting properties. Kip.—A young goat. Lams.—A young sheep. Lamp’s Woou.—Wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. Soft and possessing superior spinning properties over wools of equal quality shorn from older sheep. This is due to the fiber ends retaining the natural tip, while the fiber ends have been cut by a previous shearing on older sheep and are therefore blunt. LEAN Woot.—Wool with very poor spinning properties. Espe- cially deficient in waviness. Line Fireces.—Those midway between two grades as to qual- ity or length. Live Woox.—Lofty wool shorn from living sheep. Lorry Woor.—Open wool, full of “life.” Springs back into normal position after being crushed in the hand. Very elastic. Luster Woou.—This is obtained from long-wool sheep, such as the Lincoln, Leicester, Cotswold, etc.. It is known as luster wool because the coarse fibers reflect light. It is also known as braid wool. Matcurnes.—Portions of fleeces of the same quality from which all inferior wool has been removed. Mepium Woots. between long and short wools. (b) Sometimes refers to the gen- (a) Those wools which average in length eral quality. In such cases the term includes the grades high ¥/4-blood, %-blood and low 14-blood wools. Merrin Woor.—This is secured from the decomposed remains of Merino sheep on the Western ranges. After scouring it has an old-ivory tint, and is very difficult to bleach. Merrin wool possesses unnatural softness. 244 GLOSSARY Mopoc.—Reclaimed wool fiber from hard-woven and fulled fabrics. Native Woots.—This term is applied to those wools produced east of the Mississippi River. Nor.—A by-product of worsted manufacture during combing consisting of short and tangled fibers under a desired length. It is used as a raw material in the manufacture of woolens. Orr Sorts.—The by-products of sorting consisting of the less desirable parts of the fleece. In fine staple or any other grade there are certain quantities of short, coarse, stained and colored wools. These are the off sorts. Orpinary.—The term “ordinary” is sometimes used for terri- tory clothing or carding wools. In such cases it distinguishes the wool so described from “staple.” Pers1AN Lams.—This is the best grade of Karakul lambskins. They have the most pronounced, most uniform and tightest curls. The term Persian was given to them for the reason that at one time all these skins found their way to the European markets from Persia, and the impression then prevailed that practically all the skins were produced in Persia. Pickiock Woon.—Formerly a grade above XX. Picklock was the product of Silesian and Saxony Merino blood. There is no American market grade of that name at present, as there is practically none of this wool on the American market. A very small quantity of this quality of wool is produced in West Vir- ginia. Pirces.—The wool removed by skirting the fleece. PoLtLEeD.—Without horns. Port Puitire Woors.—Wools raised in the southern part of Victoria, and shipped through Melbourne and Geelong are known as Port Phillip wools. Port Phillip is an extensive bay on the southern coast of the State of Victoria, and the two important wool centers named above are located on its shores. PuLteD Woor.—Wool taken from the skin of a slaughtered sheep’s pelt by slipping, sweating or the use of depilatory. GLOSSARY 245 Punta ARENAS Woor.—Punta Arenas is a seaport in Chile on the Straits of Magellan. Large quantities of low crossbred comb- ing wools especially suitable for knitting yarns are grown in neighboring provinces of both Argentina and Chile, and are shipped from this town. Quatiry.—The diameter and relative fineness of the wool. It largely determines the spinning quality. Ram.—A male sheep used for breeding. A ram produces longer and stronger wool than ewes and wethers. Raxee Woor.—That shorn from sheep raised under ranching conditions. In the United States, better known as territory wool. Recarn.—This term refers to the amount of moisture absorbed from the air by scoured wool after leaving the dryer. Resects.—Off-grades and_ off-sorts, such as cotted fleeces, black wool, tender wool, too much kemp and fleeces with a vile odor shorn from sick sheep or decaying carcasses. Also fleeces containing considerable vegetable matter. Rivertna Woots.—These come from river lands in the State of Victoria, Australia. Ruwn-Our Fiesce.—One that is not uniform, but much coarser on the “britch” than elsewhere. Lacking character. It may contain a large amount of kemp. Srconp Curs.—Careless shearing sometimes results in cutting wool which has already been shorn once. This produces short fibers known as fribs and second cuts. Scruspep Woors.—Same as brushed wools, Semr-Bricut Woor.—Brighter than territory wool, but too dark to be classed as bright. Suarry WooL.—Wool of good length and spinning properties. SuEARING.—The removal of the fleece of wool from the sheep. SHEARLINGS.—Short wool pulled from skins of sheep shorn before slaughtering. Also an English term for yearling sheep. Suivy Woor.—A somewhat broad term. It refers to the pres- ence of small particles of vegetable matter in the wool, such as burrs, stickers, leaves, twigs and stems. 246 GLOSSARY Suoppy.—(a) In its broad meaning, wool that has been pre- viously made into yarn or fabrics, torn apart and made ready for use again. (b) In a strict sense, the term applies to recovered wool fiber obtained from soft all-wool rags. SHRINKAGE.—The loss due to removal of grease, suint and foreign matter when grease wool is scoured. SrrE.—Same as ram. Skin Woon.—Same as pulled wool. SKIRTING.—This consists in remov ing the neck, belly and leg pieces and the low quality wool of the britch from the edges of the fleece. It is the universal method of preparing wools for market in Australia and New Zealand. Stipe Woot (Siape, Sxipy).—A Yorkshire dialect word, meaning “slip” or “slippery.” All pulled wool treated with lime is slipy wool and much pulled wool not treated with lime is also slipy wool. The lower the grade, the more it has a tendency to be slipy. There are wools other than pulled wools that are slipy. Wools that have been sheared from sheep that have been so-called hurriedly fattened for the market are recognized as slipy wool. Wools from old ewes that have passed their usefulness and are fattened up for the butcher will produce wools as above mentioned, slipy. The lower grades become more slipy than the higher grades. All mohair is slipy compared with wool, yet it is rarely referred to as a slipy material. In sorting mohair, a slipy fleece can be recognized, just as you can tell a fat sheep fleece in sorting ordinary wool. Overfeeding is the cause in both cases, There is a wonderful difference as to wool of well-fed sheep and one that is underfed. Sorr Wastes.—These include card strippings, card fly and soft floor sweepings. Also included are sliver, top, slubbing and roving wastes, but these seldom reach the market, as they are usually worked up by the mill in which they originate. Sortine.—The classification and division of the wool fibers GLOSSARY 247 in a fleece into various groups or sorts, according to fineness, length, soundness, elasticity, spinning and other properties. Sprinc Woo1.—Six to eight months’ growth; shorn in the spring where sheep are sheared twice a year. SraInEeD Woou.—That which is discolored by urine, dung, ete. Srapie.—(a) A lock or bunch of wool as it exists in the fleece. (b) Territory combing wool. (c) Having reference to the length of the fiber. Srar Lots.—Lots of wool consisting of one, two or three bales offered at the London Auctions are known as star lots. SruBBLE SHEARING.—Shearing some distance from the skin, leaving a “‘stubble.” Sur Generis.—This Latin term means of its own kind; in other words, an original and distinctive type without relationship with any other type. Surnr.—Excretions from sweat glands deposited in the wool. Suprr.—This trade term is apparently without a definite meaning, and when used, it is applied to medium pulled wools, such as B super and © super. However, the term is seldom used, and is fast disappearing. It is probably an abbreviation for the word superior. In Great Britain, “super” is a grade term, and represents wools between the grades of “pick” and “selected.” SwEATING SHEDS.—Sheds in which sheep are “sweated” before shearing. The object is to raise the yolk and make shearing easier. Tacs.—Large dungy locks. Tra or Tracert.—English term. Same as hog or hoggett, but is applied to shorter wools. Territory Woors.—Territory wools are in general those which come from the territory comprising the Intermountain States. Trippy Wooxt.—Wool in which the tip or weather end of the fiber is more or less incrusted. Top.—A continuous untwisted strand of the longer wool fibers straightened by combing. ‘The short fibers or noil have been 248 GLOSSARY removed by the comb leaving the top. After reducing, drawing and spinning it becomes worsted yarn. Tor-Makers’ QUALITIES OR CounTs.—Top-makers’ qualities or counts are the numbers used in designating the quality of certain foreign wools. They range from 12’s upwards. The numbers are supposed to indicate the number of hanks of yarn to which a pound of top will spin. Each hank represents 560 yards. Tus WasHED.—Wool that has been washed in the fleece after having been sheared. Very rare in America; this practice was formerly practiced in Kentucky. UNMERCHANTABLE.—Fleeces containing an unusual amount of chaff, burrs, seeds or straw, usually necessitating carbonizing, and therefore of inferior value compared with other similar wools free from such foreign matter. Also includes wool that has been poorly washed upon the sheep’s back, or the wool allowed to remain on the sheep for some time before shearing, after having been washed. Van Woor.—This name is given Merino wools grown in Tas- mania. Viren Woor.—Wool sheared from live sheep, and of course not previously used in manufacturing. Warp.—The threads which run lengthwise in cloth, WasHEeD Woots.—Those from which the suint has been re- moved by washing the sheep before shearing. Western Woors.—Often applied to all wools grown west of the Mississippi River. Specifically it designates the true territory wools grown in the Intermountain States, WeETHER.—(a) In English wools it refers to wool other than the first clip from the sheep. (b) In sheep, a castrated male. Wiry Woor.—That which has very poor spinning properties, owing to the poor elasticity and pliability of the fiber. Wooten System.—After carding, yarns are spun directly on the mule in this system. The fibers are criss-crossed and do not lie in any general order. GLOSSARY 249 Wootr-Sorrers’ Disnase.—See anthrax. When this disease is contracted by wool sorters it is usually caused by a skin abrasion on the hands, and nearly always while working on wools from Asia or from South America. Worstep.—Yarn spun from top. The wool fibers are paralleled and equalized, and the yarn is smooth compared with woolen yarns. Owing to its structure, a worsted thread does not possess felting properties to the same extent as a woolen. The two sys- tems of manufacturing worsted yarn are the Bradford and French. YEARLING.—A. sheep one year old. Yietp.—The amount of scoured wool obtained from a definite quantity of grease wool. Yorx.—The fatty grease deposited on the wool fibers from the oil glands. 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