Jpglll ii.hiinln il TV ncirpMM iiiifi'innni; rrvn' iimn 17 Jesuits’ Convent 18 Notre Dame 19 Landing place for Steamers 13 Hotel de Trois Suisses 14 Posting House for Ems 15 Church of St. Florin liThe Electoral Palace 1 Forts Alexander and Constantine 1 Hotel Belle Vue 7 Island of Oberworth 8 Bridge of Boats 9 The Rhine 5 Stolzenfels 6 Village of Pfaffendorf, beyond which is Hockheim 1 Town of Ehrenbreitstein 2 Hotel de Ville, Ehrenbreitstein 3 Cheval Blanc 20 Rheinberg Hotel 16 Hotel de Ghent 4 Pfaffendorf US W Sm 35 John Tower 36 Ehrenbreitstein 37 The House of the Commandant 32 Neuendorf 33 Neiderwerth 34 Ballendier Fort Francis A Raft A Dutch Yacht Steam Boat, Leopold Moselle Bridge 24 Infant School 25 Church of St. Castor 26 Dutch House 21 Hotel de Coblentz 22 Protestant Church 23 Hotel de Paris ■ ’ ■ 1 ■■ ■ D E S C li I P T I O N OF ?IS'W OF THE CITY OF S C 0 w, WITH THE GORGEOUS ENTRY OF HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER II. INTO THE KREMLIN. ♦ THE PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, ROBERT B IT R F O R D, HENRY c” SELOUS AND ASSISTANTS. From Drawings taken hg a, Russian Artist . Mention: PRINTED BY TV. J. GOLBOURN, G, PRINCES STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE- PRICE SIXPENCE. 1857 - Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/descriptionofvie00burf_20 M O S C O W. Moscow, the ancient metropolis of the vast Empire of Russia, is a most unique and interesting city, remarkable for its fine position, for its great extent, and for the semi-Asiatic barbarism exhibited in a great portion of its architecture. At the time the present Panorama was taken the city was more especially worthy of admiration, from the extensive and gorgeous preparations, made for the reception and coronation of the absolute sovereign of sixty millions of Russians. Every thing was made to look as gay as gold, paint, varnish, and whitewash, could make them, whilst the presence of the ambassadors extraordinary, with their splendid retinues—the assembling of the various wild tribes from the most distant portions of the empire—the vast influx of strangers from all parts of the world—together with the unparalleled military display, produced a scene of pomp and magnificence unknown in other countries. The first of these important events, His Imperial Majesty’s solemn entry into the city, forms the principal feature in the view. From the esplanade of the Kremlin, whence the view was taken, a tableau is presented, with which no view of any capital in the world can be compared for variety and beauty. The fortress itself presents models of architecture, without designating names or known models, heaped together at the caprice of the various builders, without order or plan, whilst beyond it, on all sides, stretching apparently to the very horizon, the grand masses and extraordinary forms of the edifices, assisted by the inequalities of the surface, produce singularly picturesque and re« markable effects. All the architecture of all the nations of the globe is here to be found: the fantastic Chinese, the massive Gothic, the graceful Sara¬ cenic, the elegant Grecian, are strangely mixed with private dwellings, 4 modern and elegant as tlioso of Paris and London; whilst from a vast mosaic of green and red house tops, spring a rich profusion of gold and star-spangled domes—each of the five hundred churches having at least three, some as many as twenty—delicate green spires, strangely shaped towers of the fortress-like monasteries, and airy turrets, intermixed with and finely relieved by the majestic trees of the several boulevards, gardens and shrubberies, and enlivened by the silvery line of the Moscowa river ; the whole presenting a marvellous ensemble, which the vast area of the Panorama alone can exhibit with fidelity and effect. The immediate foreground of the picture, looking towards the north, is occupied by the gorgeous procession accompanying the Emperor into the ancient fortress palace of his ancestors, the long line of which is seen winding across the esplanade, from the sacred gate of Our Saviour, to the square of the palace; every detail being distinctly visible. On the plateau formed by the highest ground, are seen the three Cathedrals of the Assumption, the Annunciation and St. Michael, two of the vast imperial palaces, and the singular tower of St. John, with the far-famed great bell of Moscow at its base; also the treasury, arsenal, two large monasteries, and several of the other churches of the Kremlin; together with a long line of the walls, two of the principal gates, and many of the towers and spires by which they are adorned.* To the left of the Kremlin is seen the new Cathedral, vast masses of the second division of the city, and a considerable extent of the river, crossed by two bridges. Towards the right is the Chinese Town, the most pro¬ minent buildings in which are the Cathedral of St. Basil, with its towering spire and twenty domes, each of different form, ornament and colour, radiant in sunshine with all the tints of the rainbow; and the enormous Greek facade of the Foundling Hospital. Towards the south¬ east, below the walls of the Kremlin, is the river gay with boats, beyond which is seen a portion of the fourth division of the city, closely crowded with buildings. In the middle distance all round, various portions developo themselves, not crowded together nor heaped in dense masses, but broken by gardens and open spaces planted with trees, amongst which the white houses, softened in their outline, harmonize most * When the view was taken, every building in the Kremlin was encumbered with a framework for the purpose of illuminating; these have been omitted, as they very much impaired the general effect. agreeably. Many large buildings also attract attention from tlieir great size, and from their style being so strikingly different to tho surrounding objects. Several of the monasteries still farther off, are conspicuous also, from the space their various buildings and gardens occupy, especially towards the Sparrow Hills, the only eminences of any consequence that vary the general monotony of the surrounding country. Moscow, the ancient Capital of the vast Russian Empire, is said to have been founded in 1147, and is first spoken of as a small place on the river Moscowa, which was enclosed by palisades of wood by the Great Duke George II. (evidently the site of the present Kremlin), to which he subsequently added a second enclosure, which he called the Kitai, after his son. These, together, formed in those times a considerable military station, which was soon surrounded by numerous dwellings of wood. In its early days, Moscow suffered from the most fearful calamities, perhaps of the same character, but of greater intensity than has befallen any other capital. In 1238 it was sacked and burnt by the cruel Batou Khan, and in 1293 it met with a similar fate at the hands of Nagai Khan, who sent a great portion of the inhabitants into slavery. Several princes afterwards disputed possession of the city, which was now become of considerable importance; it also became a prey to internal disasters: finally Demetrii, surnamed Donskoi, became sole master; he died there in 1389, after having done more for its prosperity than any one into whose hands it had previously fallen. From this time it became the sole capital of Muscovy, and subsequently of the whole Russian Empire, and continued to advance in wealth and prosperity, notwithstanding repeated interruptions from war, pestilence, and fire, especially the latter, having in 153G been partially burnt, when 2000 inhabitants perished in the flames, and again in 1571 when fired by the Tartars, when it is estimated that at least 100,000 were killed by sword or fire. Peter the Great, in 1703, removed the court to his new capital, St. Petersburg; but despoiled as it is of its religious honors, deprived of its Patriarch, abandoned by its Sovereign, and by the most courtly of its ancient Boyars, it still has an importance in the eyes of all Russians, such as no other city has for any other people; it is the centre of all the national and religious feelings, hallowed by seven centuries of historical associations; they speak of it with reverence and affection as tho “ Holy Mother,” arid regard it with deep aud enthusiastic love, Tho o Russian Peasant, when he sees it for the first time, takes off his hat reverentially, and blesses himself that he lias lived to do so. In 1812, the most important event in the history of Moscow occurred. On the 15th of September, in that year, Buonaparte, at the head of a victorious army, entered the city; but not a soul was seen in the streets to give him welcome; not a chimney smoked; three hundred thousand inhabitants had deserted their homes, and had given up their holy, beautiful, and much-loved city to the flames, leaving behind only the infirm and those who, from sickness or other causes, were incapable of moving, amounting, altogether, to not more than twenty thousand. The same evening, a fire broke out in the Chinese city, and a few hours after, in many parts of the city and suburbs, which, by the night of the 16th, had extended in all directions, and assumed the most serious * and menacing aspect. For six days the flames spread with the most devouring fury, defying all the efforts of the French to subdue them, when tho wind, which had been blowing strongly during that time, suddenly dropped, and the fires gradually burned out. The means the Russians thus employed to repel the enemy was a sublime deed of despair—the greatest sacrifice that was ever made by a people to a country’s cause. All holy, rich, and beloved as it was, Moscow was rendered a willing offering to the safety of Russia. At least, three- fourths of the houses were destroyed ; in many parts a few of the more solid buildings, such as churches and large mansions, alone escaped. The fire, a dreadful calamity in itself, had ultimately an important and valuable influence, being directly beneficial in causing the streets to be made wider, and the substitution of brick in place of the former wooden tenements; at the same time, without destroying altogether the original character of the city, which, on the return of the Russians, rose from its ruins with extraordinary celerity, so that, in a very few years, there remained little or no evidence of this disastrous event. The Kremlin, the cradle of the Empire, is to Moscow what the Capitol was to Rome—it is the very hoart and soul of all Russia; it contains all that is most sacred and precious, and in it have occurred many of tho great events that serve as landmarks in her history. It stands on a considerable eminence on the north side of, and near the centre of a crescent curvature of the river, and is of a triangular shape, surrounded by strong, irregular crenelated walls, from thirty to sixty feet in height, 1 and from twelve to sixteen feet in thickness, carried over hills and ravines, and broken by high round towers at each angle, tapering steeples at four of the gates, and nine smaller turrets of different forms, with pointed spires in other parts. In this varied style strength takes the place of beauty, caprice, of elegance. Altogether there are seven gates of entrance, but five only are in general use. The space thus enclosed, which is about a mile in circumference, is a perfect labyrinth of churches, palaces, convents, museums, and other public buildings, there being no private dwellings; all, therefore, that is most ancient, interesting, and historically important in architecture, as well as all the most sacred national memorials, are here concentrated and preserved, and here, also, the three great powers, political, spiritual, and commercial, have their seats. The Kremlin contains the three most holy cathedrals, besides fifteen other churches, venerated by the Russians as much for their sacred relics as for their worldly riches, and the many trophies of conquest they possess ; also the three imperial palaces, two convents, the Patriarchal and other palaces, the senate-house, museum, arsenal, and barracks—all placed in the most picturesque disorder, without regularity, and with but few open spaces of any size, excepting a fine esplanade on the southern side, which rather abruptly slopes towards the river, and, having been laid out with walks, grass, &c., forms an agreeable promenade. The French attempted to blow up the walls of the Kremlin by mining them in several places, but their great strength defied all their efforts ; two small portions, two towers, and a steeple only, were thrown down, but the old palace and several other buildings were much shaken. Round the exterior of the walls, on what was formerly the glacis, a garden has been formed, which is much frequented in fine weather. On the eastern side of the Kremlin, and also on one side bordering the river, is the Kitai Gorod or Chinese town; the merchants’ quarter, in which are situated the bazaars and markets, and most of the best shops. It is also surrounded by walls with towers and buttresses, and, together with the Kremlin, still forms a somewhat triangular figure. Round these two portions of the city have been drawn two circles,-— one with a radius of one mile, the second of about one mile and a half, each being surrounded by a planted boulevard. The first circle stops 8 short at the banks of the river, where it makes its principal bend, the enclosed portion being called the Bieloi Gorod, or white city ; whilst the second crosses the Avatcr, and encloses a considerable space on the south bank, the whole circle forming the Zemliannoi Gorod, or earthen town, from its having been formerly surrounded by earthen ramparts. These enclosures form what may be properly called the city, but beyond, in all directions, stretch the slobords or suburbs, thirty-five in number, abounding in monasteries with large gardens, hospitals, barracks, and other large establishments. In some parts regular streets of bouses reach to the very boundary wall; in others, there are large open spaces, and but few buildings. The whole is enclosed by a rampart of earth, varying from six to ten feet in height, and a ditch of irregular form, furnished with many barriers, tbe whole being above thirty-seven versts, or more than twenty miles in circumference. The Moscowa, a small navigable river, traverses the city, entering at the western side, and after making a series of remarkable serpentine windings, quitting it again at the south-eastern corner. Within the city it receives a small tributary stream called the Jaousa, which joins it from the north-east, also the waters from three other small streams, and nearly two hundred ponds and rivulets, all within the walls. Moscow is more irregularly built than almost any other city in Europe, and it is a matter of some astonishment that the fire did not occasion more improvement in this respect. The site is a series of gentle eleva¬ tions, intermixed with many large level spaces. The main streets, although of tolerable width, are uneven, undulating, and tortuous, none being of a sufficient length to form a perspective, yet, in their windings, constantly presenting some singular or pleasing feature. Small lanes and alleys are numerous, turning and twisting in every direction, like the meanderings of a river. They are mostly badly paved—some not at all: they are consequently dirty, and dangerous from the unceasing passage of vehicles. There are twenty-five squares, markets, or open spaces, one hundred and sixty-four principal streets, and five hundred and thirty-nine cross streets. It is very difficult to estimate the number of churches in Moscow ; at one time there were sixteen hundred, when the rage for building them was so great, that a law was passed forbidding the erection of any more. Weber, in 1730, estimated the number at fifteen hundred; Coxe, in 1778, 9 at four hundred and eighty-four, which was probably nearer the fact, as the former number no doubt included all the chapels attached to the cathedrals, monasteries, &c., several of which have from three to twelve perfectly distinct from each other. In 1819 there were six cathedrals, twenty-one monasteries, two hundred and sixty-seven Greek parish churches, seven of other denominations, and innumerable small churches and chapels; the number of which has not greatly increased since that time. All the churches, large and small, very much resemble each other, the architecture being confined to a fixed principle, from which very little deviation is ever made; they are perhaps not quite so bizarre as before the fire, nevertheless, many still present some singular features. The form is a Latin cross, externally very plain, and with but little to admire in their architectural decorations; some are whitewashed and coloured, others painted to resemble marble, or in fresco, with images of saints or events from Scripture ; they are generally surmounted by five or more domes richly gilt or coloured. In a few instances there is only one dome, in some fifteen or twenty. The interiors of some are divided into a summer church above, with a winter church below; and although they are generally small and dismal, they are all very rich in decorations and relics. The houses, except in the business parts, are not built contiguous or in regular rows, but are mingled somewhat confusedly together. After the fire the object was to get them rebuilt as quickly as possible, so that every one erected his house as nearly as could be on the spot where it previously stood, and according to his own taste, before any settled plan had been formed. Thus they frequently form singular combinations and discord¬ ancies, one being large and magnificent, the next, perhaps, small and paltry; one stands boldly forward, another is scarcely seen in its court¬ yard or little garden, and surrounded by mean one-story tenements. Although Moscow can boast of but very few ancient buildings or extra¬ ordinary monuments of architecture, and scarcely a structure that can be called a perfect work of art, yet it presents many, that from their vast size and superfluous profusion of ornaments, strike with astonishment, from their strange mixture of the Asiatic and European styles. The most ancient buildings, excepting in the Kremlin, were mostly destroyed by the fire, or were so damaged that the necessary renovation changed their character;, the fires also that constantly occur, occasion as constant A 5 10 renewal. Even the stone of which many are built is of so soft a texture, that it rapidly decays, so that it is only in the suburbs and bye-streets that the houses are completely national, and even here the ancient log- houses are few and far between. The best houses are generally two or three, sometimes four stories in height; some are of stone, but the majority are of brick, plastered, and very much ornamented; they are painted or washed all the colors of the rainbow, but as fashion regulates taste, there is generally one or two prevailing tints; some have a base¬ ment story for servants, others are surrounded by the offices or small gardens. In the leading streets, the floor even with the road is let off as shops or stores, the first door contains the reception rooms, which are large, well proportioned, and elegantly furnished, and the upper story forms the bed chambers. In the smaller houses there are no bed chambers properly so called, the couches in the saloons being used for repose. The roofs are covered with sheet iron, usually painted green or red. Altogether, Moscow may be said—-with the exception of the Kremlin—to be devoid of what are termed “ Lions;” there are no very antique edifices, no public buildings of very fine architecture, no public galleries of art, nor private cabinets of any merit. The regular resident population of Moscow is estimated at about three hundred and fifty thousand, of which number about five thousand are clergy and military, and about ten thousand foreigners—principally Germans, French, and English. At the coronation the population of the city was considerably more than doubled, by visitors from foreign countries, and by natives from all parts of the vast empire. The military force alone encamped in the neighbourhood amounted to above one hundred and fifty thousand. 11 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATE. THE SOLEMN ENTRY OF THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER II. The procession which escorted the Emperor Alexander II. from the palace of Petrovsky into Moscow, and to the ancient palace of his ancestors, was a gorgeous and solemn spectacle of the most striking description, of an almost barbaric splendour little known to modern times, and to which few historical pageants can claim superiority. The whole road, nearly five miles in length, was lined on both sides by infantry three deep and close file, whose steady bearing, varied costume, and diversity of equipments, were very imposing. No army in the world can offer the same contrasts of costume as the Russian, for besides every form and colour of modern European uniform, there are some regiments of the guards which have retained such as have been long obsolete, and are now striking from the novelty of their antiquity; one regiment especially still retains the peaked caps of scarlet cloth with the original sheet of solid brass in front, shaped like a bishop’s mitre, most of them shewing by one or more bullet holes that many of the unfortunate wearers must have perished beneath them. Behind the lines of soldiers, stages and scaffoldings were erected, filled with gaily-dressed spectators, and every available spot, both within and without the city, where there was the least chance of catching the most distant sight, was crowded to excess by the admiring people. Within the city the winding streets and the quaint buildings strangely combined with the pageant, and together produced a most extraordinary result. The houses were decorated with muslin and colored draperies, intermixed with gay carpets, rugs, and flags of every shape, size, and country; whilst the windows and balconies were filled with the elite of the female aristocracy in full dress. The day was remarkably fine, and the sunshine added much to the brilliancy of the scene. The firing of the artillery, the constant pealing of all the bells, and there are several thousands in Moscow, the crash of the numerous bands, and the rolling of drums, but above all, the mighty roar from two hundred thousand men, women, and children, full of homage and ectasy, shouting welcome to their sovereign, or joining in the noble swell of the national anthem of “ God bless our Emperor,” formed a strange mfilange, stunning to the ear, like the raging surf on a storm-beaten shore, that will never be forgotten by those who heard it. At the entrance to the city,the Emperor was received by the Military Governor-General of Moscow, with his staff and attendants; at the entrance of the Zemliannoi Gorod by the magistrates and chief burghers; at the Bieloi Gorod by the Marshal of the Nobility and chief nobles of Moscow, and at the gate of the Resurrection of the Kitai Gorod by the Civil Governor and authorities, where their Imperial Majesties alighted to salute the image of the Virgin of Iversk, which decorates the gate. At the Holy Gate of the Kremlin the Emperor was received by the Commandant of Moscow and his staff, and the procession then crossed the esplanade to the Church of the Assumption, in the order seen in the Panorama. First came a body of mounted police, headed by their chief; they are fine looking men, well mounted, and their closely fitting uniforms of light blue give them a very soldier¬ like appearance. An escort of the Imperial Horse Guards came next. These Guards have always been the hobby of the Russian sovereigns, and nowhere in the world can be found a finer looking body of men. The cavalry number about fifteen thousand men, few, if any, being less than 6 feet in height; they all also bear a most remarkable similitude to each other, their hair being dyed black, and even their faces stained of a dusky color when fair; their horses are all powerful animals, and their equipments of the most gorgeous description. A squadron of the Black Sea Cossacks followed, on their small but fiery little horses. The Cossacks of the Guard are the picked men of a fine race ; they wear w r ide plaited trousers, a close-fitting jacket, over which is a second, fastened in front, without buttons, and with the sleeves hanging loose, and a cap of Astrachan lambskin, with the Imperial arms in front; their arms are a sabre, a large pistol slung to the back, and a long and heavy lance. The Marshal of Nobility of Moscow and a body of the principal nobles on horseback, all richly habited in military, naval, or civil costumes, followed, forming a rich display. Then came perhaps the most interesting feature of the whole procession—the represent¬ atives of the Asiatic and various other nations and principalities subject to Russia—- a species of ovation almost unknown in modern days, presenting a gorgeous display of eastern magnificence. Imeretians with black turbans, armed with slings. Tcher- kesses and Leschians of the Caucasus, in chain mail and bright scarlet pelisses, with head-gear of beautifully wrought steel, battle-axe in hand, resembling knights of the olden time. Pale thin Circassians, in white caftans and splendid turbans, armed with bows and arrows. Handsome Persians of Ecrivan, in conical black caps glitter¬ ing in the gold brocades of Shiraz and Teheran. Tartars in flowing robes of green velvet embroidered with gold, and Mingrelians in red tunics and flat little caps, Kourds,Turcomans, and Cossacks of the Guart.the Ural, the Don, and the Black Sea, Next followed a perfect host of servants of every description, headed by the chief officer of the palace. Grooms, footmen, runners, huntsmen, jagers, and negroes, all in state liveries, richly embroidered in gold. Next in order were Masters of the Ceremonies, in carriages; Gentlemen of the Chamber on horseback ; Officers of the Stables and grooms ; Officers of the Court of the second rank in splendid carriages ; the Court Marshal in a carriage ; Officers of the Court of the first rank, the Members of the Imperial Council, and the chief Court Marshal, with his sceptre of office, all in state carriages. Next in succession came a strong body-guard of the celebrated Chevalier Guard, the most magnificent cavalry in the world, in person, mount, and equipments. Their uniforms are white, with a cuirass and helmet of burnished gold, and all their equip¬ ments are most resplendant. Then came His Imperial Majesty Alexander Nicolaievitch II., Emperor of all the Russias, on a grey horse. His Majesty is a very fine man, in the fortieth year of his age, his countenance, although of a serious cast, beaming with intelligence and kindness. He was habited in a general’s uniform, and appeared much affected by the loud and enthusiastic plaudits of his subjects. His Majesty was attended by the minister of the household, the minister of war, and a general and aide-de-camp of the Imperial suite ; and was closely followed by their Imperial Highnesses the Heir Apparent Nicholas Alexandrovitch, a fine young man in the fourteenth year of his age; the Grand Dukes Alexander, Constantine, Nicholai, and Michael; the Prince Romanoff, Duke of Leucbtenberg, Prince Peter of Oldenburg, and other foreign princes on horseback; and a brilliant staff of generals of various grades. Her Majesty the Empress-mother came next, in a splendid antique carriage drawn bv eight horses, each attended by a groom ; on the right of the carriage rode the chief equerry, and, on the left, the adjutant-general attached to her Majesty. Four Cossacks of the chamber were behind the carriage, and two pages on the footboard in front, all in state uniforms. Behind the carriage were six pages of the chamber, and two grooms on horseback. Alexandra, the Empress Dowager, is still a very fine woman, although sixty years of age ; she appears, however, to be suffering much from sorrow and ill health. The carriage somewhat resembles a sedan chair, suspended from enormous springs bv thick bands of leather; the decorations are in the style so much in vogue in the time of Louis XV. The top is surmounted by a crown, and at each corner are eagles with outstretched wings. Every part of the carriage is elaborately ornamented with particularly delicate carving, richly gilt, and the panels are finely painted. 13 The carriage of the present Empress immediately followed, containing Her Majesty and His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovitch, in all respects similarly attended as the preceding. The Empress of Russia is a fine and handsome woman—one of the most amiable and perfect of wives—the best and kindest of mothers ; she was attired in a most splendid robe, a sort of compromise between the ancient Sclavonic and the modern French toilettes, and wore the Kakochnik or national Russian head dress, studded with jewels. The Imperial carriage was a most sumptuous affair of English manufacture, upon which the skill of the celebrated Grinling Gibbons is displayed in some of the finest wood carvings. At the back are two groups of St. George and the Dragon, and all round the carriage runs the most delicate and beautiful flowers and foliage. A French artist has endeavoured to emulate, in the paintings on the panels, the efforts of the great master of carving; it is probable they were executed by Boucher himself, or by his pupils ; and they have most wonderfully resisted the ravages of time, owing, doubtless, to the varnish used by Martin, the famous coach-painter of the time of Louis XV. Between the coach-box and the front of the carriage is a seat suspended from the enormous springs, on which was seated two pages with their backs to the coachman, their faces, of course, looking towards the front window of the carriage. The Emperor himself selected both these carriages from the Imperial collection, and ordered them to be regilt and embellished for the occasion : the other state carriages, thirty in number, were expressly built for the purpose; they are of the newest and most elegant designs, and are one mass of highly burnished gilding. The panels of some are finely painted, and the linings and hammercloths are of rich Genoa velvet, elaborately embroidered in gold and silver by the Greek nuns, as hard and as solid as metal; the trappings are of red leather, almost hidden in gold and gems. After the Imperial carriages came those of the six Grand Duchesses and the Princess of Oldenburg, all similarly attended, escorted by the Chevalier Guard, and followed by a squadron of the Cuirassiers of the Guard. Then came the carriages of the Ladies of the Bedchamber and Maids of Honour, squadrons of the'Guards and Lancers closing the procession. Having reached the cathedral of the Assumption the Emperor was received by the Senate, the Holy Synod, and the clergy of the cathedral, at the parvis, and, after having passed a brief space in this and the two adjoining cathedrals, kissing the Holy relics, and prostrating himself before the tombs of his ancestors, he entered the palace, at the gate of which he was presented with bread and salt by the Archbishop of Moscow, No. 1 .—River Moscow a. This river takes its rise in the province of Smolensko, and passing through the territory of Moscow, enters the city on its western side, through which it winds so much that it remains for nearly three miles within the walls ; after quitting the city it flows in a south-eastern direction until it joins the Oka, a tributary of the mighty Volga, after a course of 210 miles. It is navigable from its mouth to a short distance above Moscow, where the navigation is stopped by a considerable cataract. No. 3 .—Kamennoi Bridge , The only stone bridge that crosses the Moscowa. It was commenced in 1687, and was completed in five years. It is a plain but very substantial structure of five arches, and considerable breadth, having a broad footpath on either side, protected by a double parapet, as a defence against carriages and equestrians. 1 he pillars of the Bridge between the arches are very strong and project considerably, so as to resist the sweeping force of the masses of ice that descend the river in the spring. No. 4 .—Krasnolcholmskoi Bridge , Formerly one of the primitive bridges, formed of vast beams of wood floating on the water, covered by planks and opening in the centre to admit the passage of boats. It has recently been replaced by a handsome structure in iron. Above, in the distance, 14 may be seen the Sparrow Hills, of trifling elevation, but still of a sufficient height to form conspicuous objects in the midst of the surrounding level plain; they afford a most magnificent view of the city, and from hence the French army first beheld the glories of Moscow, and all the toils and dangers they had passed were forgotten as they gazed on its gilded domes, which gave them promise of wealth and luxury. In two short months how changed the scene, when the grand army, houseless, starving, and beaten by the elements, turned its back on a heap of ruins, A T o. 6.—-Brovitskiya Gate. Unlike most of the Gate3 of the Kremlin, this is not surmounted by a Steeple, but the Tower and very elegant Steeple, stands a little on one side. Over the eastern side of the Gate is a miraculous picture of our Saviour, not made by hands, and on the western side is a picture of the Virgin, surrounded by many Saints and Prophets. Without the Gate is a flight of steps descending to the Kremlin Gardens, which are of considerable extent and well planted. Here fireworks are displayed on festivals and public rejoicings. No. 7 .—Church of lJar the Martyr. Here are two small churches under the same roof, that of the Martyr U4r, and that of the Birth of the Precursor John; they are both very small, but are perfectly distinct ; externally the building is very plain, and it is surmounted by a single dome of variegated slates of many colors. They were built by the Grand Duke Vasilii Yasilievitch the blind, in 1462, and contain coarse and very ancient pictures of the two Saints. No. 9 .—Imperial Palace of Nicholas. The Imperial Palaces of the Kremlin are four in number, but they are so closely connected with each other, that they form one vast interior. The Terema, or ancient Tartar Palace—which unfortunately cannot be seen in the present view—is a perfect gem of its kind. It is of a square foim four stories in height, each story gradually diminishing in size, somewhat like a Chinese Pagoda, the upper story being a single apartment like a tent; each story has a wide terrace or balcony with an overhanging roof supported by slender pillars ; the whole being gaily' painted presents a light and elegant appearance amongst the heavy buildings that surround it. The ground floor contains the Throne Boom and Audience Chamber of the ancient Czars, the uppermost were appropriated to the use of the Czarinas and Princesses. On the fourth story is the curious old Court Chapel called that of “Our Saviour behind the Golden Rail,” which is surmounted by eleven gilt domes, and is extremely rich in plate and ornaments. From the upper belvedere projects a small Observatory, from which, during the conspiracy of Vasilii Shuiskii, the false Demetrii fell and broke his thigh in attempting to escape from his enemies. The Granovitaya Palata, the second Palace, was originally erected in 1367, to replace the ancient Moorish wooden Palace. Having become dilapidated, it was rebuilt by the F.mpress Elizabeth, the only portions of the old structure retained being the ancient Banquetting Hall and a few rooms beneath, and the ancient entrance. This Palace having been burned by the French in 1812 was entirely' pulled down with the exception of the ancient portions, which are still intact. The Banquetting Hall is a vaulted chamber 65 feet square, the vaulted roof uniting in the centre, where it is supported by an enormous square pillar; after a lapse of 370 years it preserves its entirety, and has during that long period been always used as the Audience Chamber and Banquetting Boom at the Coronation. On the present occasion, the walls were hung with crimson velvet embroidered with gold ; a magnificent throne was placed on one side, and the central pillar was surrounded by shelves, on which were arranged the finest specimens of the Imperial plate, and all the Coronation regalia. The Krasnoye Kriltso, the beautiful or red stairs, forms the grand ntrance to the State Apartments, It is 16 feet in width. The third Palace was erected by the Emperor Alexander, immediately after the retreat of the French, on the ruins of the old "palace burned by them, In 1817 it was greatly augmented, and raised to fire stories in height. It is an immense pile, of great height and size, without any pretensions to architectural beauty, having mor8 the appearance of a large manufactory than an Imperial residence; its decorations as well as style being also in bad keeping with the venerable buildings by which it is surrounded. The centre and wings are surmounted by the Imperial arms ; and from a small turret in the centre rises a flag-staff, on which the Imperial standard is hoisted when any of the family are resident. The fourth or Little Palace was erected by the late Emperor Nicholas, and was completed in 1850, It is commodious, elegant, and most superbly furnished. The suite of State Apartments which traverse these Palaces may vie with any in the world for number, immensity and magnificence. The grand staircase is as splendid as parian, porphyry, jasper, and malachite can make it ; and amongst the gorgeous saloons especially worthy notice, may be mentioned the Hall of St. George, a vast apartment finished in white and gold, adorned with pillars, and a fine statue of the Saint killing the dragon; the Arms of the Order, with notices of important events in Russian history, and the names of some of the greatest Generals who have deserved well from their country, are emblazoned on the walls. The Hall of St. Andrew, another vast saloon, is fitted with blue and gold, and is embellished with the armorial bearings of all the Kingdoms, Duchies, and Principalities subject to Russia, and a magnificent throne with purple and gold hangings. The Hall of St. Alexander Newski, lined with rose coloured marble, and embellished with the Arms of the Order, emblazoned in gold, gems, and lapis lazuli; and the Hall of St. Vladimir, another beautiful apartment; to these may be added the State Bed Chamber of Catherine II., the ancient Concert Room, and the Halls of the Terema and Granovitaya, and numerous rooms of less note. In these Halls many very splendid fetes were given during the Coronation Festivities, which terminated on Sunday, Sept. 21st., with what was called a Masked Ball to the People. It was, however, neither a Masquerade, for no masks were worn, nor a Ball, for there was no dancing; nor could it well be called a Promenade, for there was scarcely room to move. The whole suite was, on this occasion, thrown open and brilliantly illuminated ; the state plate and regalia were exhibited, numerous bands enlivened the scene, and refreshments of the best quality were profusely served the whole evening, to upwards of 25,000 persons. No. 10 .—Cathedral of the Annunciation, A small church, the proportions and ornaments of which are in much better taste than is generally observed in most of the other churches of Moscow. It was erected in 1397, almost wholly rebuilt in 1484, and repaired, and the paintings renewed in 1770. The whole roof is copper strongly gilt, from which rises in the centre a turret surmounted by a large dome, surrounded by four others of smaller dimensions, with a similar dome at each angle of the building; the whole nine are richly gilt, and are crowned by crosses with chains, altogether presenting a most splendid appearance. The cross on the large dome is said to be of solid gold. The exterior is painted with scenes from the Parables, in which his satanic majesty figures in propria personre. 'The interior is rich in painting and jewels. The bindings of the Gospels and the vestments of the priests are especially rich. The frame of the sacred picture of the Annunciation is said to weigh 18lbs. weight of pure gold, and it is thickly studded with costly gems and pearls. The paintings on the walls are inferior hut the pavement is rich, being a mosaic of precious stones, agate, jasper, cornelian, &c. The French are said to have used this Church as a stable, and in it to have slaughtered many of their horses. No. 11.— St. Michael. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael is an edifice presenting but very little external beauty, the style being that of most of the other churches of Moscow. It was erected in 1333 by the Grand Duke Johann Danilovitch Kalita, in gratitude for the cessation of a great famine ; was partially rebuilt in 1509, and was repaired and restored by the Empress Catherine II» in 177 T. At the west end it is ornamented with 10 paintings representing the Last Judgment* &c. The interior is antique and sombre, the windows being so few and so small that the light they admit seems to render the obscurity alone visible. A portion of the screen is pure gold, and it is filled with richly ornamented paintings; there is also a grand display of gold and silver ornaments, jewellery, precious stones, and many sacred relics. In this Church all the Sovereigns of Russia, from the time that Moscow became the Metropolis to the time of Peter the Great, are entombed in large square Sarcophagi, ranged along the nave; they are usually covered by palls of red velvet embroidered with gold, but on grand festivals with gold or silver brocade studded with costly jewels. The portraits of the Czars are also painted in fresco on the walls. Amongst the most remarkable are those of the Grand Duke Michael and his Boliarin Phedor, the Miracle-workers of Chernigoff; also of the unfortunate Demetrii Uglitch, the last of the old Rurik dynasty, who was murdered by the emissaries of Goris Godunoff. The latter tomb is of beaten silver, surmounted by a rich canopy. The body, that of a lad about eight years of age, is displayed on festivals in an open coffin covered with jewels, above is a portrait of the Prince in a richly embossed frame of pure gold. On the return of the Coronation Procession the Emperor and Empress entered the Church, and remained a short time in prayer at the tombs of their predecessors. No. 12 .—Twelve Apostles. This Church, which is a small neat building in the accustomed style, was erected by Peter the Great, and was consecrated in 1723. It presents little more than its five gilt domes to recommend it to notice. No. 13 .—Cathedral of the Assumption. The "Great” Cathedral, originally founded in 1325, was wholly reconstructed by an Italian architect named Fioravanti, in 1475. The exterior is a plain, simple, half¬ oriental building, of no particular style of architecture ; its form is a long rectangle, very lofty for its size, but small. In detail, it is any thing but beautiful, yet as a whole it is somewhat imposing; the five domes, richly gilt, and surmounted with crosses and dependant chains, add much to its appearance. The east and west fronts are adorned in three compartments, with paintings of the Virgin and Child, with Angels, Apostle, &c. The interior is dark, and the nave is encumbered by the enormous bases of six immense pillars that support the roof, and are disproportionately large to the size of the Church. The whole of the walls and pillars are richly gilt from the pavement to the roof, and are decorated with gigantic paintings in fresco, executed in 1515, and regilt and repaired in 1773, comprising 249 whole-length figures, and 2066 half-lengths and heads of Angels, Saints, Apostles, Sovereigns, &c., &c,, in a stiff monotonous style, whilst from the dome, a colossal head of the Saviour looks benignantly down. This being the Church in which the Sovereigns are crowned, it is extremely rich in precious metals, jewels, and relics ; it was plundered by the French, but the priests managed to make a good salvage. The screen is embellished with gold and silver, the shrines are covered with costly jewels, and the plate, curiosities and vestment, are gorgeous. There is a Mount Sinai of pure ducat gold, weighing 120,000 ducats ; a picture of the Virgin, said to be by S. John, covered with the rarest jewels ; and a Bible of extraordinary size, weighing upwards of 1201bs., the gold and precious stones in the binding of which are said to have cost 1,200,000 roubles ; it was presented to the Church by the mother of Peter the Great. The crown and numerous chandeliers suspended from the roof, are said to weigh SOOOlbs. of fine silver. For such a spectacle as the Coronation the Church was inconveniently small, not holding moro than five hundred persons, one half of whom were Ambassadors, Ministers of State, and high functionaries. The costly estrade on which the ceremony took place, was raised in the centre of the Church, and all the art, taste, and resources of the Empire were lavished upon it ; crimson velvet, gold brocade, gems of immense value, and gold and silver furniture contributed to its magnificence; and a gorgeous canopy, ornamented with white Ostrich feathers, was suspended by gold cords from above. The three Cathedrals with the old and new Palaces form three sides of aq irregular square, the fourth side, as seen in the view, being open to the Esplanade ; round this square was the platform on which the Coronation Procession passed from the Palace to the Church, The fourth side was on this occasion fitted with a temporary wooden screen, handsomely draped and pierced with two lofty Gateways, through which at the termination of the ceremony the Procession, emerging by on$ and re-entering by the other, returned to the Palace, J\ r o. 41 .—Sacred Gate, A large heavy looking building, surmounted by a square spire, terminated by a double imperial eagle bearing a crown, above which there is a cross, all gilt; there are also two clocks, and a chime of many bells. This is considered the sacred, holy, and triumpal gate of the Kremlin, in passing which every male individual, from the poorest peasant to the Emperor, either riding or walking', takes off his hat, or he is compelled to do so by the guard on duty; a rather annoying ceremony in winter, as the distance through is above twenty paces. On the western side of the gate is a picture of the Virgin, and another of the Saviour, not made by hands, and on the eastern side is another picture of the Saviour, in a richly gilt frame, supported by four angels, rudely painted on the walls, before which is a large glass lantern, in which candles are burned night and day. Many curious stories are told of wonderful miracles performed at this gate; some, more amusing than truthful, are said to have occurred during the occupation of the Kremlin by the French; one is that each time Buonaparte attempted to pass, his horse reared, and fell with him. The small tower immediately to the south of the gate is interesting, from the alarm bell of the garrison having been formerly suspended in it; but having been employed to assemble a vetche, when the Archbishop Ambrosius was murdered, the Empress Catherine ordered its removal. The tower was also used by the ancient sovereigns as a resting place on public or holy processions, and from it they viewed public executions in the square without, called the red place. No. 42.— Voxnesenskoi Nunnery , Erected in the year 1329,by the Grand Duchess Evdokia, and rebuilt in 1721, by Peter the Great, The various buildings of the nunnery surround a large square, at the corner of which stands a newly-built church, which is conspicuous in the view. In the centre of the square, surrounded by trees, stands the Cathedral of the Ascension, erected in 1407. It somewhat resembles the Cathedral of the Assumption, but the domes are of polished tin instead of being gilt. It contains the tombs of several of the Czarinas and Princesses, including those of the Grand Duchess Evdokia, four of the wives and several of the daughters of Ivan the Terrible, and the first wife of Peter the Great. No. 44 .—Chudoff Monastery , A vast mass of building, in the range of which are included the old metropolitan palace, subsequently the palace of the late Emperor, and in which the present Emperor was born, also six churches which, with the dwellings of the monks, the houses of the clergy, and the various offices of the monastery, surround several spacious and pleasant courts. The monastery is of the first class, and contains thirty monks ; it was erected in 1365. The Cathedral of St. Catherine, the largest church, is as old as the monastery, but it was partly rebuilt in 1811. It is an elegant Gothic structure surmounted by a large dome, the whole rather too much overladen with ornament. The French used this church as a bake-house for one division of the army. The church next in size is dedicated to St. Alexii; it is of two stories, surmounted by a number of small gilt cupolas. The handsome Ionic portico is finished with two Gothic turrets. It contains the shrine and relics of St. Alexii, the celebrated miracle worker, which are held in the highest reverence. The remains of many of the most noble families of Russia repose in the Chudoff Monastery, and are covered by some fine monuments. No. 45.— Arsenal, An edifice two stories in height, covering an immense area; the front having a noble vaulted entrance, embellished with ionic columns and sculptured ornaments. It was erected in 1702, but having been partly destroyed by fire, was repaired and enlarged in 1801. It was sacked by the French and the roof blown off, but the walls remained entire. The whole has been restored, and it contains a vast collection of the arms, &c., of all nations, from the earliest dates. The Arsenal and Treasury form two sides of a large triangular space, the third side of which is occupied by the Senate House, a large and handsome building erected by Catherine II., which, besides the great Council Chamber of the Senate, contains other State and Public Offices. No. 46.— Treasury . The Imperial Museum was erected in 1806. It is an edifice of some pretensions, consisting of a basement with one very lofty story above, surmounted by a large cupola. The portico is ornamented with eight columns, and the wings with pilasters of the Corinthian order. The interior contains a vast and wouderfully rich collection of national objects of Russian splendour and glory; vases, jewels, &c., arranged in five finely ornamented saloons ; amongst them are the Crowns worn by all the Sovereigns from the earliest times to the present day, commencing with that of Monomachus in 1116, with their accompanying Sceptres, Globes, Crosses, Insignia, Robes, and other regalia; forming a constellation of jewels of singular beauty, remarkable size, and immense value. Also the crowns of Kazan, Poland, Astrachan, and other conquered states, and a collection of thrones in gold, silver, and ivory, and costly armour, arms, &c. In addition, there is a marvellous accumulation of fine plate, vases, and cups of gold, silver, and ivory, enriched with costly jewels; curious furniture, models, articles of mechanism, and the costumes of the Russian Princes of every age, especially many memorials of Peter the Great; the whole forming a singular historical collection, and a mine of wealth, the value of which is beyond estimation. On the basement is a curious exhibition of the State Carriages of the various Emperors and Empresses. No. 47 .—Office of the Holy Synod. The ancient Palace of the Partriarcbs of Moscow, is now used as a section of the Russian Holy Synod, and contains a fine Library rich in curious old Manuscripts, the Treasury, and the Wardrobe. It is also the depository of the holy oil with which all Russian children are anointed at their christenings ; also of the vast silver vessels wherein it is made, purified, and kept until distributed through the provinces. No. 48 .—Church of St. John. The Belfry or Church of St. John as it is sometimes called, from its containing a Church dedicated to St. John the writer of the Stair, is a large brick stuccoed edifice of five stories in height, the upper part of which is formed into arches, in which are hung a number of large bells. In the centre of the building is a handsome round tower with a cupola, cross and chains richly gilt, and at the northern end a spire covered with green tiles terminating in a gilt cross. The bells are 33 in number, varying in size from 124,2891bs. downwards. On festivals they are all tolled without intermission during the whole day. No. 49.— Great Bell. Near the base of the Tower stands, broken aud silent, the Czar Kolokol, or Emperor of Bells, the celebrated great bell of Moscow. This fine bell was cast in the year 1733, by order of the Empress Anna Ivanowna, and it is said to contain a considerable quantity of precious metal; most persons who were permitted to see the process, throwing into the melting mass some article of plate, or ornament of gold or silver. It is ornamented with an image of the Empress in flowing robes on its surface. The 19 bell is said to weigh 193 tons, and a piece which is broken off shews the thickness of the metal near the rim to be 23 inches. The diameter on the inside is 22 feet 5 inches, and the height is 21 feet. It is said that soon after it was suspended (if it ever was) a fire caused its fall, and it remained buried in the ground until 1836, when by order of the Emperor Alexander it was raised to its present position on a granite foundation, and was consecrated as a chapel. No. 50.— St. John's Tower , The most lofty and conspicuous building in Moscow, and as it can be seen from a considerable distance from the city, it is an object of great veneration to the peasantry. It is an elegant structure of four stories, the three lower being octagonal, the upper one round, which is surmounted by a bulbous-shaped cupola and cross richly gilt, making the extreme height 269 feet 8 inches. Under the head of the cupola is an inscription in Russian of three rows of gilt letters, so large that they have the appearance of an ornamental frieze, which states that the tower was built by the Czar Boris Phedorovitch in 1600. The Tower was formerly the campanile to the Church of St. Nicholas the Magician ; each division is pierced with open arches, in which are hung bells of great size, one weighing 64 tons ; numerous other bells of smaller size are also suspended within, which all being rang or rather tolled at one time, after the manner of Russian bell-ringing, make a terrific noise. The Tower can be ascended, and a most extensive view is commanded from openings in the dome. The French attempted to blow up this Tower, and succeeded in destroying several of the surrounding buildings ; but the great strength of the tower resisted all their efforts, and although it was rent from the top to the bottom, not a single stone fell; the explosion has, however, slightly affected its perpendicularity. No. 52 .—Cathedral of the Virgin. The cathedral of the protection of the Holy Virgin, or St. Basil, as it is most commonly called, is a most extravagant specimen of architecture, without a parallel; certainly the most singular, if not the most beautiful edifice in Moscow. It stands on a fine esplanade in the red place, and is approached by a flight of steps; the form is the usual Greek cross, and the architecture is of no particular style, ornamented with emblematical paintings in fresco. There is one high tower and spire 150 feet in height, with no internal division whatever ; there are also twenty small towers, round, square, six, and eight sided, each surmounted by a dome, no two being alike in size, form or ornament: some are round and smooth, others are coned like a pine apple, ribbed like a melon, scaled like a serpent, or rayed like a zebra ; they are all striped, speckled, chequered and embossed, with gold, silver or colours of the brightest hue, presenting the whimsical combinations of a Kaleidoscope, the play of light on which does not shock the eye, but produces an extraordinary and unique effect. The spire is not in the centre, and there is no regularity whatever; all seems thrown together in the most capricious and fanciful disorder. The interior is equally without symmetry or character, confined, dark, and paltry, a perfect honeycomb of gloomy passages and dismal churches ; of the latter there are twenty, the walls of which are painted in arabesque, but are much faded. This singular building was erected by Ivan the terrible, to commemorate the capture of Kazan; and his design seems to have been, to see how many places of worship could be crowded under one roof, where religious services could be performed at one time, without interfering with each other; and having accomplished his desire, as a reward to the ingenious architect, he caused his eyes to be put out, that he might never erect such another chef d’oeuvre elsewhere. No. 54 .—Constantine and Helen , A small church erected by the Czaritsa Natalya Kiriloona in 1662. It was nearly destroyed in 1812, and, although partially rebuilt, is a very mean looking edifice, No. 55.—Foundling Hospital. The Foundling Hospital of Moscow is conducted on the usual scale of Russian magnificence, and the kindness and attention paid to the helpless and deserted inmates is beyond all praise, Catherine II., called the mother of her country, was the foundress, and it is in great part supported by a bank of loan and deposit established on the premises, and by a tax on all public amusements. The building is enormously large, but the Grecian fapade, os seen in the view, although of noble proportions, contrasts badly with the surrounding buildings. The children generally average about 25,000 in the building and out at nurse ; the wet nurses are about seven or eight hundred. Some parents pay a small sum, the greater part however pay nothing. The education is sound and good ; the girls, if they shew talent, are taught music, painting, and the finer arts, others are sent out as governesses, or to some light trade; the boys go into the army, or are taught such trades or professions as their talents or inclinations may fit them for. The expenses of the establishment are not less than one million sterling per annum. No. 56.—School for the Nobles. The institution for the orphan children of the poorer nobles is an establishment unrivalled in the world ; there are generally about 300 inmates, who receive the best possible education, and many marry into the highet families. No. 51.—Moskvaretskoi Bridge, A wooden bridge, erected on a vast number of piles ; it is wholly removed early in the spring, and as soon as the floating ice has passed away, is reconstructed. No. 58.—Secret Gates, A double flight of narrow stairs, descending to the river, for foot passengers only. Printed by W. J. Golboubn, Princes Street, Leicester Square.