MANUSCRIPT 
 ROOM 
 
A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 EAST, 
 
 AND 
 
 Some other Countries, 
 
 VOLUME the Firft. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS on EGTPT. 
 
 By RICHARD PO COCKE, LL.D. F.R.S. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for the Author, by W. Bowjer; and fold by J. and P. Knapton, 
 W. Innys, W. Meadows, G. Hawkins, S. Birt, T. Longman, 
 C. Hitch, R. Dodsley, J. Nourse, and J. Rivihgton, 
 
 MDCCXL1II. 
 
TO THE 
 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 H E N R T 
 
 Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery; 
 
 Baron Herbert of Caerdiff; Ross of Kendal; 
 Parr, Fitz-Hugh, Marmion, St. Qjjintin, 
 and Herbert of Shurland: 
 
 Groom of the Stole to HIS MAJESTY. 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 S the magnificent buildings of Egypt, and an- 
 tient architecture are the chief fubjecl of this 
 book, it could not be more properly addreffed than 
 to Your Lordfhip. 
 
 On this account, with all its imperfections, it may meet 
 with a more favourable reception in the world than it really 
 deferves. 
 
 4 But 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 But Your Lordfliip knows, it was a cuftom among the 
 antients, which prevails at this time in the eaft, to prefent to 
 great perfons of the beft they had ; and how indifferent fo- 
 ever, the good intention fupplied the want of greater abi- 
 lities. 
 
 I have alfo the fatisfa£tion of acknowledging the great 
 obligations I fhall always be fenfible I am under to Your 
 Lordfliip, on many accounts ; and at this time particularly, 
 for the honour Your Lordfliip is pleafed to do this work, 
 and of giving me an opportunity of profefling myfelf to be, 
 with the utmoft regard, 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 Your Lordfliip's 
 molt obedient and 
 mo ft humble fervant, 
 
 Richard Pococke. 
 
THE 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 TH E publifher of thefe obfervations at firft had it 
 only in his thoughts, to give the world the plans 
 he had taken of the Egyptian buildings, together 
 with fome drawings of them, and to add an account, and 
 defigns of all the different orders of Egyptian architecture. 
 He imagined even plans alone, with proper defcriptions, 
 not fo defective as they might be with regard to other 
 buildings : For, where there are no windows, and a very 
 plain and uniform manner of architecture of doors, views, 
 for the mod part, would only reprefent a dead wall, and the 
 entrances ; unlefs there had been llcill and opportunity to have 
 drawn the hieroglyphics, which would take up the time of a 
 long life. He has, however, given views of moft of the diffe- 
 rent forts of fronts that are feen in the Egyptian buildings, 
 where they are adorn'd with pillars, and indeed of fo many, 
 that he cannot recollect that he has omitted more than two 
 or three, where there are any considerable ornaments of co- 
 lumns ; one being near Efne, of the fame nature as the other 
 that is defign'd in that plate ; another is of the famous temple 
 of Tentyra at Amara, where he apprehended the pillars in 
 the front were capitals fomething approaching towards the 
 Corinthian order, as fome others are in Egypt, and not the 
 head of Ifis, as within ; but he could not find drawings of 
 them, nor any thing in his notes in relation to them. 
 
 What he has done will, he hopes, give a fufficient idea of 
 the Egyptian manner of building ; and if he had gone no 
 further, it would have been very little more than publifhing 
 thefe plates; and it is but a little more at prefent, by the per- 
 fuafion of fome friends, to give an account of his travels, and 
 of feveral accidents, that might give an infight into the cu- 
 ftoms and manners of people fo different from our own, in 
 order to render the work more acceptable to the generality of 
 readers. 
 
 4 b When 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 When he was engaged fo far, he thought it beft to give as 
 {hort and perfect an account as he could of Egypt, and to 
 add fomething of the government, cuftoms, and natural hi- 
 ftory, as the latter would alfo give a general idea of the 
 Turkifti polity and manners. And he hopes thofe will ex- 
 cufe what they may think trifling, who are pleafed. only with 
 antiquities, and to fee an account of architecture in its very 
 firft beginning. And fuch as delight only in reading tra- 
 vels, and the hiftory of the feveral little accidents that happen, 
 may pafs over, with a tranfient view, the dry defcription of 
 plans, buildings, and ftatues, which others may efteem as the 
 moft valuable part of this book. 
 
 There are few things in the plates that have been feen be- 
 fore, if two or three drawings are excepted, that he either 
 put in to fill up the plates, or becaufe he found them better 
 in others, than be could give them himfelf. Of the firft kind, 
 are the profpe£t of Jofeph's well at the entrance, and the 
 head of the fphinx, from Le Brun, (though this is with fome 
 alterations, as to the ornaments of the head ;) and of the lat- 
 ter are the feftion of the great pyramid by Mallet, and the 
 views of the convents of St. Paul and St. Anthony, from a 
 manufcript map. And, though the drawings of Jofeph's well, 
 and the Mikias, have been publilh'd before, yet he thought 
 it proper to have them engraved, according to his own obfer- 
 vations, to make this account more perfect ; and he imagines, 
 at leaft, that they may be fome improvement on the others. 
 
 He thought it beft to give an account of all the buildings 
 he faw in Egypt, in a regular manner, as if he had feen 
 them all when he went up the Nile, in order to prevent 
 any confulion of things in the mind of the reader, and the 
 better to fettle the antient geography, by taking all the pla- 
 ces, with their antiquities, in their natural order, although he 
 faw many of them in his return. He hopes no very grofs 
 errors, much lefs inconfiftencies, will be found in this work ; 
 but if any fuch ftiould have flipped, efpecially with relation 
 to fome conjectures and calculations, that may or may not 
 have the foundation of truth to build on, being only ofFer'd 
 to the confideration of the readers j it is to be hoped that they 
 will impute them only to a want of due recollection of the 
 great variety of things that have occurred in fuch a courfe of 
 rambling, or to his having apprehended things in a different 
 
 manner, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 manner, in different parts of his journal, to which he had re- 
 courfe in making thefe remarks. It muft alfo be confider'd 
 that he has defcended to feveral particulars, purely for the 
 fake of thofe who hereafter may travel into Egypt, and has 
 added many things on the fame account, that might otherwife 
 have been omitted ; which are not all related as certain truths, 
 but only as intimations, that may chance to give an opportu- 
 nity of fixing feveral things, that are not yet fufficiently 
 clear'd up ; fuch particularly are all thofe conjectures that 
 are made in relation to the rife of the Nile. 
 
 It muft be obferved with regard to the map of Egypt, that 
 where canals are marked out in points, they are only where he 
 fuppofes the antient canals of the Nile did formerly run. 
 
 Thofe perfons will be much difappointed, who expect any 
 ornaments of ftyle in this work ; for he will be well fatisfied 
 if they find nothing that deferves cenfure in that refpecT:, as it 
 was his intention to relate every thing in the plaineft manner, 
 according to the obfervations he could make, and the beft of 
 his judgment. 
 
 If thofe, who expected to be diverted, do not find fufficient 
 entertainment, it is owing to his good fortune; and it would 
 be (training politenefs to too high a pitch, to fay that he is 
 forry he did not meet with more unlucky accidents, in order 
 to relate a greater variety of pleafant ftories; but he has how- 
 ever given an account of almoft all the incidents that hap- 
 pen'd, in their natural order, without pretending to any great 
 art or judgment in felecting them. 
 
 He will doubtlefs be cenfured, if fault be found with con- 
 jectures, where things are dark, or with fupplying buildings, 
 where they are ruin'd ; but as the buildings that are (landing 
 are engraved with double lines, thofe that are ruin'd with 
 fingle lines, and thofe fuppofed, where there remain little or 
 no figns of buildings, with points, every one may fee what is 
 really in being, and that he offers nothing to the world with 
 defign to deceive : Nor does he pretend to be intirely infalli- 
 ble, as to his plans ; and though he took great pains in mea- 
 furing all the antient buildings, yet he is fenfible there may be 
 omiffions and miftakes, though he endeavour'd, as much as 
 pofiible, to avoid them. He muft alfo obferve, that he only 
 took an account of the Deities in the forty-third plate, omit- 
 ting to make a particular drawing of them. 
 
 In 
 
 3 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In a work of this nature, without doubt, there muft be 
 many errors and faults ; but he hopes the readers will be can- 
 did, if they think he has endeavour'd to give an account of 
 things as they really are ; and if they confider withal the 
 dangers, inconveniences, and many uneafy hours, any one 
 muft have fuffer'd in near feven years travels in fuch coun- 
 tries, and in a manner alone, and reflect on many other cir- 
 cumftances that attend the collecting and publilhing thele 
 materials ; he is perfuaded they will excufe his fending into 
 the world this imperfect account. 
 
 CON- 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 BOOK the Firft. 
 Of the lower parts of Egypt. 
 
 c 
 
 HAP. I. Of Egypt in general ; Alexandria, and the places neai 
 
 Chap. II. 
 Chap. III. 
 Chap. IV. 
 Chap 
 Chap 
 Chap 
 
 V. 
 VI. 
 VII. 
 
 It. 
 
 page i 
 
 From Alexandria to Rofetto and Grand Cairo. 
 Between Damiata and Grand Cairo. 
 Of Grand Cairo. 
 
 Of Memphis, and the pyramids near Cairo. 
 Of the catacombs and pyramids of Saccara. 
 Of Faiume, the old Arfinoe, the Labyrinth, and the lake 
 MtEris. j j 
 
 '3 
 18 
 
 39 
 48 
 
 BOOK the Second. 
 
 From Grand Cairo to the antient Ethiopia, above the Cataract 
 of the Nile, and back to Cairo and Damiata. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 Of Archemounain, Gaua, and other places in the way to Ak- 
 mim. 68 
 
 Section I. Of Akmim, and the places near it. y 6 
 
 Section II. From Akmim to Menfheeh, Girge, Furfhout, 
 Tcntyra, Kena, Kept, Cous, and Thebes. 8r 
 
 Of Thebes. 90 
 
 From Thebes to Erment, Efne, Etfou, Ombus, and Aflbuan, 
 the old Syene near the cataracts. 1 1 o 
 
 Of Affouan, Syene under the tropic, Elephantine, the Quar- 
 ries of granite, the catarafls, Philie, and the borders of 
 Ethiopia. 116 
 
 From the catarafts down to Grand Cairo and Damiata. 1 2 3 
 
 BOOK the Third. 
 
 From Grand Cairo by the Red Sea, into Arabia Petrasa, to 
 Mount Sinai, and back to Cairo, Rofetto, and Alexandria. 
 
 Chap. I. From Grand Cairo to Suez, and the Red Sea. 130 
 Chap. II. Of Arabia Petraa. From Suez to Tor, and Mount Sinai. 136 
 Chap. III. Of Mount Sinai, and the places about it. 143 
 Chap. IV. Of the journey of the children of Ifrael. 154 
 
 c Chap. V. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Chap. V. From Mount Sinai to Suez, Grand Cairo, Rofetto, and Alex- 
 tidria. page 158 
 
 and 
 
 BOOK the Fourth. 
 
 Of the Government, Cuftoms, and Natural Hiftory of 
 Egypt. 
 
 Chap. I. Of the government of Egypt. 161 
 Chap. II. Of the military bodies in Egypt. 166 
 Chap. III. Of the adminiftration of jufiice, public revenues, trade, and 
 manufactures of Egypt. 170 
 Chap. IV. Of the ftate of religion in Egypt; its inhabitants, their po- 
 licy. 1 7 <J 
 Chap. V. Of the education, cuftoms, drefs, and modern architecture of 
 Egypt; and of the caravan to Mecca. 180 
 Chap. VI. Of the climate, foil, and waters of Egypt. 195- 
 Chap. VII. Of the Nile. 198 
 Chap. VIII. Of the vegetables of Egypt. 204 
 Chap. IX. Of the animals of Egypt. 207 
 
 BOOK V. 
 
 Mifcellaneous Subjects, chiefly relating to the Antiquities and 
 Natural Hiftory of Egypt. 
 
 Chap. I. Of fome antiquities, and antient weights brought from Egypt. 
 
 HI 
 
 Chap. II. Of the antient architecture of Egypt. 215- 
 Chap. III. Of the mythology of the antient Egyptians. 22r 
 Chap. IV. Of the antient hieroglyphics of the Egyptians. 227 
 Chap. V. Of the Egyptian manner of embalming human bodies and 
 birds. 230 
 Chap. VI. An abftract from Mallet's account of the infide of the great 
 pyramid. 234 
 Chap. VII. Of the religion of the Coptis in Egypt. 244 
 Chap. VIII. The hiftory of the rife of the Nile. 249 
 Chap. IX. An attempt towards fettling the real rife of the Nile. 253 
 Chap. X. Of the method of cultivating and preparing ice, about Ro- 
 fetto : Of the manner of making Sal Armoniac ; and of 
 hatching chickens in ovens. ■ 25-9 
 
 Chap. XI. Of the proceffion of the caravan to Mecca. z6i 
 Chap. XII. The rout of the caravan from Cairo to Mecca, from the ac- 
 count of one who had been there fourteen times. 165 
 Chap. XIII. An account of the Bey of Tunis; his court and govern- 
 ment. %66 
 Chap, XIV. The patent of Mahomet, which he granted to the monks 
 of mount Sinai, and to Chriftians in general. 268 
 
 Chap. XV. Forms 
 
 3 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Chap. XV. Forms of fome letters and pafports, according to theEaftem 
 
 ftyle. 270 
 
 Chap. XVI. Greek infcriptions found in Egypt. 277 
 Chap. XVII. The Egyptian bifhopricks, and others under the patriarch 
 
 of Alexandria, from the patriarch's map. 
 
 Chap. XVIII. Of Egyptian and Arabic plants. 281 
 
 Chap. XIX. Of a Statue lately brought from Egypt. 284 
 
 Differtatio de Geographia ./Egypti. 28 j 
 
 CON- 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PLATES contain'd in this Volume. 
 
 i A M A P of Egypt, and of part of Arabia Petraea. page i 
 
 i jl \ A plan of old Alexandria, in its prefent ftate. z 
 
 3 Plans of fome old towers at Alexandria, and a plan and fe&ion of one 
 
 of the cifterns under ground. 3 
 
 4 The pillar at Alexandria, commonly calPd Pompey's pillar. 8 
 
 5 The plans of fome catacombs about Alexandria ; of a Caftrum at Ni- 
 
 copolis, and the ifle Latomia, at the mouth of the Rofctto branch of 
 the Nile. 9 
 
 6 Plans of the ground, and ruins of Baalbait, the old Bufiris ; of Benal- 
 
 haffar, the antient Bubaftus, and of Matarea, the old Heliopolis. 2 1 
 
 7 A map of the country about Cairo. 24 
 
 8 A view of Jebel Jehufy, the fuppofed fite of the antient Babylon, near 
 
 old Cairo. A view of the pyramids of Saccara, Dafhour, and Gize ; 
 of one fide of Hajar Silcily, and of a wall of Elephantine, and feve- 
 ral things reprefented relating to the navigation of the Nile, the wa- 
 tering of the country, etc. 2 y 
 
 9 The plan and elevation of Kafr Kieman, fuppofed to be a Roman Ca- 
 
 ftrum; and a plan of one of the granaries at old Cairo. 26 
 
 10 A view of the refervoir of the aquedufi: at Cairo, and a plan of the 
 
 top of it. 27 
 
 1 1 A plan of the mofque Amrah, near old Cairo, and a plan and upright 
 
 of a Sarcophagus at Cairo. 28 
 1 1 A plan and fe&ion of the Mikias at Cairo, or the place where they 
 
 meafure the height of the rife of the Nile. 29 
 1 3 A plan and view of the gate Nafr at Cairo, and a view of a door in an 
 
 antient palace in the city. 3 z 
 
 14 A plan and views of the buildings commmonly call'd Jofeph's hall. 
 
 1 5 A view of what is call'd Jofeph's well, in the caftle of Cairo, with 
 
 plans and fe&ions of it. 3 4 
 
 16 Plans of the pyramids of Gize, near Cairo, and apian and fefiion of 
 
 the gallery in the great pyramid. A view of a fmall pyramid, and 
 the manner of filling up the ftep in the fccond pyramid. 41 
 
 17 A fiction of the great pyramid at Gize, and a view of the head of 
 
 the Sphinx. 4^ 
 
 1 8 Plans of the pyramids of Saccara and Dafhour. 49 
 
 19 A view of two pyramids; that call'd the pyramid with fteps, and ano- 
 
 ther call'd Muftabait-el-Pharaone; and plans of the catacombs for 
 human bodies, and for birds. 54 
 
 xo Views 
 
Contents of the PLATES. 
 
 10 Views of the pyramids of Dafhour, and of what is call'd the falfe py- 
 ramid towards upper Egypt. page jz 
 
 n A mummy brought from Egypt, and a fort of vafe frequently found in 
 the catacombs. 
 
 22 Plans and views of the pyramid of Baiamut. Views of the obelifk 
 
 Bifigc, of the feveral fides of the temple of the Labyrinth, and of 
 the lake Mceris. j7 
 
 23 Plans of the temple, and other buildings of the Labyrinth. 61 
 
 2 4 Plans and uprights of a gate of Antinoopolis, and of a portico of a 
 
 temple at Archemounain. 73 
 15 A plan and upright of the temple of Gaua, and a view of fome grot- 
 tos near Hajar Silcily. 76 
 
 26 Plans of four temples at Amara, the old Tentyra. 8<$ 
 
 27 A plan and upright of a temple at Cous. Plans of a temple and 
 
 bridge at Kepht, and of a temple and gate of Thebes, eaft of Car- 
 nack, and an upright of the gate. 8 8 
 
 28 A plan and fedion of the great temple of Jupiter at Carnack, being 
 
 the eaftern part of Thebes, call'd Diofpolis, and a view of fome 
 of the gates. 02 
 
 29 A view of Thebes, on the weft fide ; of the ftatues of Memnon, and 
 
 the Memnonium. o5 
 
 30 A view of the fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes. 97 
 
 3 1 Plans of the fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes. 9 8 
 32 Plans of the fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes. pej 
 34 Plans of two fubterraneous grottos at Thebes, probably belonging to 
 
 the palaces of the Kings of Thebes. i 00 
 3 j Plans of two temples, and of fome ruins at Thebes, on the weft. 1 o r 
 
 36 The ftatue of Memnon at Thebes. 102 
 
 37 The back part of the ftatue of Memmon. 103 
 
 38 Infcriptions on the right leg of Memnon. I0 4 
 
 39 Infcriptions on the left leg of Memnon. ioy 
 
 40 A plan of the temple and fepulchre of Ofymanduas at Luxerein, or 
 
 Lacfor of old Thebes. 106 
 
 41 The upper part of a ftatue of Ofymanduas at Thebes. 107 
 
 42 Hieroglypbical reprefentations in the Maufoleum of Ofymanduas. 108 
 
 43 The front of the fepulchre of Ofymanduas at Thebes. 109 
 
 44 Plans of two temples at Erment. no 
 
 45 Plans of temples near Efne, and an elevation of them. 11 1 
 
 46 A plan of the temple at Etfou, and an elevation of the great gateway 
 
 to it. 112 
 
 47 A view and plan of Hajar Silcily. 114 
 
 48 A plan, view, and fedlion of the obfervatory at Syene. A view of a 
 
 rock near, and a plan of a temple at Elephantine. 116 
 
 49 A plan of the ifle and temple of Phila;. 120 
 
 50 Views of temples at Ombus, and Phils, and of rocks of granite, op- 
 
 poGte to Phila;. 1 2 1 
 
 5 1 A view of the convents of St. Anthony and St. Paul, in the defert. 
 
 128 
 
 j 1 Views of Mount Sinai and Horeb. 144 
 
 d j 3 Places 
 
 3 
 
Contents of the PLATES. 
 
 5 3 Places about Mount Sinai ; a plan of the top of it, and views of the 
 
 ftone of Rephidim. 
 
 54 Infcriptions on the rocks about mount Sinai. 148 
 
 5 } Infcriptions on the rocks about mount Sinai ; and the epigram on the 
 
 bafe of Memnon. 
 
 56 A plan of the convent and church of mount Sinai. ij 
 
 57 Egyptian utenfils. igtf 
 
 58 Egyptian garments, litter, &c. 187 
 j 9 Drefles particular to Egypt. xyz 
 
 60 A ftatue of Ifis, brought from Egypt. 210 
 
 61 Another view of the ftatue of lfis. 211 
 61 A ftatue of Ofiris, brought from Egypt. 212 
 
 63 Another view of the fame ftatue. 213 
 
 64 Antient ftatues and heads brought from Egypt. 214 
 <5y A ftatue of Harpocrates and Egyptian feals. 2iy 
 
 66 Egyptian pillars. 216 
 
 67 Egyptian columns. 217 
 
 68 Egyptian capitals. 218 
 
 69 Egyptian cornices, and entablatures. 219 
 
 70 Views of the embalmed birds of Egypt, and of fome fifh of the Nile. 
 
 2 33 
 
 7 1 A plan of a Coptic church and convent, of the ovens to hatch chickens, 
 
 and of the furnaces for making Sal Armoniac. 246 
 
 72 The palm of the Thebais. 280 
 
 73 The palm of the Thebais. 281 
 
 74 Egyptian plants. 282 
 
 75 Plants of Egypt. 283 
 
 Re f e- 
 
References to the Plan of Alexandria. 
 
 Plate II; 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. Old Alexandria. 
 ALEXANDRIA. New Alexandria. 
 
 A. TTHE Me Pharos. 
 
 B. J| The promontory Lochias. 
 
 C. Port Eunoftus, now call'd The 
 
 old Port. 
 
 D. The great Port, now call'd The 
 
 the new Port. 
 
 E. The Pharos, now a caftle. 
 
 F. The cape of figs. 
 
 G. The entrance for fmall boats. 
 
 H. The entrance for fhips. 
 
 I. Heptaftadium. 
 n. Necropolis. 
 
 K, K. Lines fuppofcd to be the old 
 
 bounds of the fea. 
 L. The old caufeway. 
 M. Suppofed antient gate, in the way 
 
 to Canopus. 
 N. Great tower to the eaft, mark'd 
 
 A. in the third plate. 
 
 O. Great tower to the weft, mark'd 
 
 B. in the fame plate. 
 P. The palace of the Kings. 
 
 The round tower. 
 R. Suppofed fide of the ifle Antir- 
 
 rhodes. 
 S. Neptunium. 
 T. Ca;farium. 
 V. The antient docks. 
 W. Port Cibotus. 
 X. Hill Panium. 
 Y. Gymnafium. 
 Z. Forum. 
 
 a. Gate of Necropolis. 
 
 b. Mofque of 1001 pillars. 
 
 c. Mofque of St. Athanafius. 
 
 d. Copti convent. 
 
 e. Greek convent. 
 
 f. Jews fynagogue. 
 
 4 
 
 g. Ciftern on three arches. 
 
 h. Porters hill. 
 
 i. The theatre. 
 
 k. Sheiks burial places. 
 
 1. Gardens. 
 
 m. The old burial-place of the Kings. 
 p. The Jews burial-place, 
 n. The inner palaces, 
 o. Mufeum. 
 
 £. Chriftian burial-place. 
 
 ■j. Road to Nicopolis. 
 
 p. The French houfe. 
 
 q. The Englifh houfe. 
 
 r. The quay and cuftom-houfe. 
 
 s. The old gate. 
 
 t. The bagnio gate. 
 
 u. The bagnio. 
 
 v. The Latin convent. 
 
 x. Serapium. 
 
 y. Pompey's pillars. 
 
 z. Catacombs. 
 
 n. Mofque of a Sheik. 
 
 r. Weft gate. 
 
 *. The caftle. 
 
 Gate of the pillar. 
 A. Gate of Rofetto. 
 0. Wells down to canals. 
 A. Lake Mareotis. 
 
 2. Canal of Canopus. 
 
 Q. The enclofed port of the Kings. 
 
 6. The place where the canal enters 
 
 under the walls. 
 
 8. Obelisks. 
 
 9. Ciftern. 
 
 0. The old French houfe. 
 
 7. The fuppofed walls to the eaft 
 
 of the palace. 
 
 EDI- 
 
Editions of AUTHORS quoted in this Book. 
 
 HErodotus, 
 Strabo, Caufabon, 
 Diodorus Siculus, 
 Paufanias, Kuhnii, 
 Ptolemseus, 
 
 London, 1670. 
 Paris 1620. 
 Hanovia? 1604. 
 Lipfias \6y6. 
 Amftelodami 161%. 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page Line far 
 
 4. 5. north, 
 
 5. 32. Canopus, 
 
 6. note %. 
 
 8. in note d. K 
 
 10. 13. after time, 
 
 11. 14. piles, 
 24. vi. 
 
 11. Venus, Arfinoe, 
 
 12. Sherk, 
 Mattalla, 
 
 20. 24. Theraafc, 
 
 22. in notes z d aL 5 cl> line y 
 
 27. 17. by, 
 
 29, 1. which is on a le- 
 vel with the bed 
 of the Nile, 
 
 17. 
 18. 
 
 read 
 eaft. 
 
 canal Canopus. 
 at note f p. 9. 
 
 a ftnucohn. 
 
 wells. 
 
 v. 
 
 Venus Arfinoe. 
 
 Sheik. 
 
 Mahalla. 
 
 Themaie. 
 
 dele ■ 
 
 thro'. 
 
 which probably is on a 
 level with the furface 
 of the Nile, when 
 at loweft. 
 
 In mte e. Esbiken, 
 
 Esbikiere. 
 
 3°- 
 
 17. having taken, 
 
 I took. 
 
 3'- 
 
 6. every one, 
 
 many. 
 
 3«- 
 
 34. Keyck, 
 
 Keyd. 
 
 + !• 
 
 12. wood, 
 
 trees. 
 
 47- 
 
 33. them O. In the, 
 
 them in the. 
 
 49- 
 
 24. the, 
 
 thefe. 
 
 ,6. 
 
 47. continuing, 
 
 confining. 
 
 59- 
 
 44. thefe, 
 
 Archomounain. 
 
 there. 
 
 tf8. 
 
 Archemounain. 
 
 74- 
 
 39. who, 
 Chap. III. 
 
 that. 
 
 81. 
 
 Chap. II. Sett. II 
 
 82. 
 
 16. city, this, 
 
 city. This. 
 
 U. 
 
 23. Carrack, 
 10. rock, chryftal, 
 Coptos, 
 
 Carnack. 
 
 89. 
 87- 
 
 rock cryftal. 
 
 Coptus 
 
 94- 
 
 note x. 
 
 at obelisks e. 
 
 95- 
 
 38- 
 
 
 9 6. 
 
 30. offers, 
 
 offering 
 
 97- 
 
 35. N. in the thirty-firft, 
 
 x. in the thirty-fecond. 
 
 99- 
 
 28. a hole, 
 24. plinth, 
 
 holes. 
 
 101. 
 
 bafe. 
 
 ?agc 
 102. 
 104. 
 106. 
 
 108. 
 in. 
 
 11;. 
 124. 
 125. 
 132. 
 
 i 3 «. 
 
 140. 
 141. 
 142. 
 148. 
 ijl. 
 ■ 83. 
 t8 7 . 
 
 I()2. 
 
 197. 
 20 J. 
 202. 
 204. 
 205. 
 
 Line far 
 
 2. fifth, 
 
 19. temple, 
 26. this, 
 41. kawks, 
 23. Serifs, 
 
 Ombos, 
 28. pefent, 
 43 ones appear, 
 
 3. beafts, 
 28. their, 
 
 10. Hamromyos, 
 41. Sarraccna;, 
 23. north, 
 
 8- dele only. 
 22. four, 
 
 11. chapter, 
 5°- n 
 
 22. Bifimillah, 
 in plate 58. Kouptick, 
 37. Decency. Women. 
 9. of the, 
 17. high, 
 17. Bulfi, 
 21. about July, 
 
 19. inftead, 
 28. fruit, 
 
 49. the freeze, and 
 cornice, and 
 the (tone, laid. 
 
 20. was of the firft, 
 49. printing, 
 
 1. mark, 
 
 34. dele, fide. 
 3. dele, and is very near 
 47. Friday, in their 
 fafting feafon,', 
 
 294. 4. Hamrofle, 
 
 nad 
 fixth. 
 
 Maufoleum. 
 
 the. 
 
 hawks. 
 
 Sherifs. 
 
 Ombus. 
 
 prefent. 
 
 one appears. 
 
 animals. 
 
 there. 
 
 Hamroue. 
 
 Sarracene. 
 
 fomh. 
 
 four Medines. 
 
 book. 
 
 *; 
 
 Bilmillah. 
 Kouphick. 
 , Dancing women, 
 among the. 
 high as they fate!. 
 Bulti. 
 
 about March, 
 inftead of. 
 
 fig. 
 
 freeze and cornice, and 
 the ftone laid. 
 
 was the firft, 
 
 painting. 
 
 maik. 
 
 the perpendicular. 
 Friday, and every day 
 during fbme falling 
 feafons, and 
 Hamroue. 
 
 A DE- 
 
Its length. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 Ifle Pharos. 
 
 Ports of 
 Alexandria. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Egypt was antiently divided into Provinces called Nomi being cer- 
 tain diftri&s, with their capital cities ; foraething like the prefent divi- 
 fion of the country under the government of Beys. 
 
 According to Herodotus, 'twas one hundred eighty-feven miles and a 
 half from the fea to Heliopolis, fix hundred and five from thence to 
 Thebes, and one hundred and two miles and a half from Thebes to Elephan- 
 tine ; fo that the whole length of Egypt was eight hundred and ninety- 
 five miles, according to this computation ; which muft have been made 
 by the windings of the river, for Egypt being eight degrees in length, 
 computing feventy miles to a degree, 'tis only five hundred and fixty 
 miles long. 
 
 When Alexander the Great return'd from confulting the Oracle of Ju- 
 piter Ammon, being pleafed with the fituation of Rhacotis, he order'd a 
 city to be built there, which from him was call'd Alexandria. As the 
 honour of being capital of the kingdom was tranflated from Memphis 
 to this place, fo it was not afterwards a part of any province, but, with 
 a territory about it, was a diftindt government by itfelf. When this 
 city was taken by the Saracens, according to the Arabian hifiorians, there 
 were in it four thoufand palaces, as many baths, four hundred fquares, 
 or places, and forty thoufand Jews that paid tribute. 
 
 As the fea has gain'd in fome parts, and loft in others, fo there is great 
 difficulty in fixing the fituation of many antient places defcribed by 
 Strabo. 
 
 There being a bay about three leagues wide, the ifle Pharos b extending 
 from eaft to weft, near to the Eaftern promontory Lochias, made the 
 ports of Alexandria ; the port Eunoftus being to the Weft, and what they 
 call'd the great Port, to the Eaft: The latter is now call'd the new 
 Port, and the other the old Port. 
 
 The ifland was join'd towards the weft end ' to the continent, by a 
 caufeway and two bridges nine hundred paces long, which muft have 
 been about the quay of the old port. The fea has gain'd on the weft 
 end of the ifland, where are feen under water the remains of cifterns 
 cut in the rock. 
 
 The famous Pharos J , or light-houfe, was on a rock at the eaft end of 
 the ifland, that was on every fide encompafs'd with water, and fo in a 
 manner a fmall feparate ifland ' ; which feems to be the fpot on which 
 the caftle is built, at the entrance of the new Port; and the pillars feen 
 in a calm fea within the entrance, may be the remains of that fuperb 
 
 fa^i .... tt.-j.Kiv ct'of vojwo) TOjUflif aAAa; i%° v ' «f 
 TG7raf£i'«J o'i 7rAoro( JjiJgfJVTOj )i, aural £' £<f «AA«f 
 TO/Aa'f. £A«^if«l $ di «fsu£«i jUSfi'&r. Strab. Xvil. 
 
 p. 787. 
 
 ^tto^oj, AijUSVflS wft>? dvrriv 7rai5v xyjpi^oy.ov. Him yotfi 
 efj JtoAjrwJijj, d)t£#f eig to jrsAssj'©- TrgofiiQhyfAiVK Sua' 
 7XTwv SI [Atrcc^v tj vj[<roi "S^vrat v.Ketvffa. tov xoAttov, 
 
 t^j 3>«^a to y.iv &v scoov jW*AAe'v tn irgocre^f rif c'jra^w, 
 >q Tij" h«t' «'ut)]V K«AeiT«i J' 'AjcgoAo^w, k, 
 
 9roiei rov Kipiya a^TiropoV Tfo? S\ tj) jEco'njTi ts 
 jusnx^i! tto^h k, 7Tst^«i eiVJv, di vtfxKoi, at £\ k, 
 i%t%Xffai, T^a^uvncroef ttxitxv w^oiu to sr^ oo-ffiVlou tx. tb 
 jreAcej'Sff xKvSuvw "Efj S\ % k'utb tq i$f yijf/f?^ #x£ov 
 
 TTir^ot no\vx\vf<@y, tutrix, nZ^yav ^xvyot^Sg xx-rttr- 
 
 Strab. xvii. p. 791. 
 
 c To' St ^y.» i$w oltro t£f Eirtigou yityvgu itr) Ttjv 
 
 itctTFtov; <Tj«A«7r«ira y-ovcv etf tov 'EukjVh A;jW£voi, ^ 
 
 «utovV yeytpugaphx;. Strab. xvii, p. 79 2 - 
 
 d Pharos eft in infula turris, magna altitudine, 
 mirificis operibus extruifta, qure nomen ab infula 
 accepit. Hasc infula objefta Alexandrite portum 
 efficit: Sed a fuperioribus regionibusin longitudi- 
 nem pafluum dcccc in mare jaftis molibus an- 
 gufto itinere, et ponte, cum oppido conjungitur. 
 Cafar ds Bello Civitt\ Lib. iii. 
 c See b. 
 
 building. 
 
ONEGYPT. .3 
 
 building : Thefe pillars I faw when I went out in a boat on a calm 
 day, and could fee to the bottom. My obferving fo nicely, and fo near 
 the caftle, was much taken notice of ; and, as I was inform'd, feveral 
 foldiers, who were that day on guard in the caftle, were punifh'd for per- 
 mitting me to examine the port fo cxaftly. 
 
 The fea has gain'd much on the ifle of Pharos every way, except to 
 the fouth; the weftern part of the old ifiand is now called the Cape 
 of the Figs ; becaufe it is famous for producing very early and excellent 
 Figs. 
 
 The fea having loft to the north, and alfo to the weft, on the fide of 
 the antient caufeway to the ifland, is the reafon why the eaftern port at 
 prefent is the lefs. There are two entrances to both ports, one near each 
 cape of the continent ; that to the eaftern Port is only for fmall boats, 
 whereas in the weftern port, it is the fafer entrance for the largeft mips,- 
 and in the other port, the entrance by the caftle is very narrow and dan- 
 gerous, by reafon of the rocks, as defcribed by the Antients °. 
 
 It is faid that Alexandria was warned on two fides by the water, to the 
 north by the fea, and to the fouth by the lake Marcotis; and that the 
 other two fides were each a kind of Ifthmus f , or neck of land between 
 the water, about feven ftadia in length ; on which account each of thefe 
 fides, efpecially that to the weft, was called Heptaftadium, from which 
 the caufeway to the ifland is faid to have gone ; which is a confirmation 
 of what I fuppofe in the plan of Alexandria, that the Heptaftadium be- 
 gan at the angle that is made near the weft gate, at the fouth eaft cor- 
 ner of the old port. 
 
 The firft thing I did at Alexandria was to pace round the walls, and The walls, 
 take the bearings ; which I did with fo much caution, that I thought 
 I could only have been obferved by the Janizary that attended me ; not- 
 withstanding it was foon publickly reported about the town, that I had 
 meafured the city walls by palms. The old walls of the city feem to 
 have been built on the height, which extends from Cape Lochias to- 
 wards the eaft, the remains of a grand gateway being to be feen in 
 the road to Rofetto at this high ground ; and the foundations of the 
 walls may from thence be traced to the canal. The outer walls round 
 the old city are very beautifully built of hewn ftone, and feem to be 
 antient ; all the arches being true, and the workmanfhip very good : 
 They are defended by femicircular towers, twenty feet diameter, and a- 
 bout one hundred and thirty feet apart; at each of them are ftairs to 
 afcend up to the battlements, there being a walk round on the top of the 
 walls built on arches. Thefe walls, as they now ftand, feem to have en- 
 clofed all the city, except the palace of the Kings to the north eaft ; and 
 'tis not improbable that the enclofure of the palace extended to the 
 weft, from the fouth eaft corner to the prefent walls, near the gate of 
 Rofetto, as mark'd in the plan, and that the foundations of the walls, 
 feen all the way to the canal, were only a defence to the fuburbs. The 
 inner walls of the old city, which feem to be of the middle ages, are 
 much ftronger and higher than the others, and defended by large high 
 
 e See b. T^iaxOVTrt suSim e^ovxa <Ji*,U£T£0v' T« & £7rl TA»T@* Oi' 
 
 hluf 8 T« jw S £V sVJ jUti'xBff jrAEUDa i>i t* a'ppi'xAu? «, oVov v'jro ^«?i«T7>jf, if J' vm 7^f Ai'^Mf. Straboxvii. p.793. 
 
 towers 8 , 
 
 2 
 
4 . OBSERVATIONS 
 
 towers 1 . There are particularly two very large well-built towers to the 
 north- weft, towards the new city on the ftrand: I have given plans of 
 them in the third plate, as I roughly fketch'd them out, in order to give 
 a better idea of them than can be convey 'd by words. That which is to 
 the north, mark'd A. was the old cuftom-houfe, and now belongs to the 
 Aga ; the plan is of the middle floor. 
 
 The other is put to no ufe, has three floors, and cifterns under ; the 
 upper floor confifts of a room in the middle about three and twenty feet 
 fquare, with a gallery round, and three rooms at the weft end; the 
 ground ftory is much the fame, except that it has two rooms and a ftair- 
 cafe to the eaft. The plan B. is of the middle ftory. Thefe towers feem 
 to have been built at the time the inner walls were made, and might be 
 defign'd to hinder any defcent on this part, where probably the quay was 
 in the middle ages; and the grand entrance from it might be between 
 thefe towers. What was without thefe walls, and the fite of the pa- 
 lace, was probably the fuburbs of the city, which I fuppofe in procefs of 
 time to have been wall'd in, extending down to the canal ; and this 
 fuburbs, fo wall'd in, began to be look'd on as a part of the city itfelf, 
 and feems to have been efteem'd fo by thofe authors who give an account 
 of the city as three miles and three quarters long, and a mile broad, and 
 fpeak of it as bounded by the lake Mareotis, taking in the fuburbs on 
 both fides of the canal of Canopus, if there were any to the eaft, or 
 in cafe there were none, as the canal run clofe along by the fide of the 
 lake, they might not improperly fay that the city extended to the lake 
 Mareotis. 
 
 Palace of the The palace, with the fuburbs belonging to it, was a fourth part of the 
 K '° ss ' city ; within its diftrifi: was the Mufeum h , or Academy, and the burial 
 Alexander's place 1 of the Kings, where the body of Alexander was depofited in a 
 tomb - coffin of gold k , which being taken away, it was put into one of glafs ; in 
 which condition, it is probable, Auguftus took a view of the corpfe of 
 that great hero, and with the utmoft veneration fcatter'd flowers over 
 it, and adorn'd it with a golden crown '. As the Mahometans have a 
 great regard for the memory of Alexander, fo there have been travellers, 
 who relate, that they pretended to have his body in fome mofque; but at 
 prefent they have no account of it. 
 
 When Alexandria was no longer the refidence of Kings, it is very na- 
 tural to think that their palace in time fell to ruin, and that the mate- 
 rials of it were removed to the part of the city that was inhabited, and 
 probably alfo to build the inner walls ; tho' along by the fea there are 
 ftill great remains, and on the fhoar are feen feveral pieces of porphyry, 
 and other fine marbles, where the antient palace flood ; but as to the 
 buildings on the fea, near the obelifks, and the fine round tower D. at the 
 north weft corner, which has two ftories, and a fine arch in the middle, 
 fupported by a pillar, they feem to be all buildings of the time when the 
 inner walls were made, at leaft not to be fo old as the time of the 
 
 B A plan of one of them is marked C. in the o m^oK^r h, h w al rm fcaethtw rotQal, ii, » AAf£- 
 
 third Plate. «V^a. Strabo, 1. xvii. p. 724. k Strabo, ibid. 
 
 h Tm fiaaihetwv fit^ Is"! 0, to Mmrafl'*, t^ov 1 Conditorium et corpus magni Alexandri, cum 
 
 STEfiV«Tow k, i&fyuv k, oIko* piy&Y. Strabo, 1. xvii. prolatum e penetrali fubjecifiet oculis, corona 
 
 p. 793- aurea impofita, ac floribus afperfis, veneratus eft. 
 
 ? Mig©- 0£ fiucihju* If) tij TO Kfli^USVOV Zw/Xflf, SliStOil. OfftlVittS, C I 8. 
 
 Ptolemies 
 
ON EGYPT. 3 
 
 Ptolemies or Cleopatra. In the round tower is a well, now fpoiled ; and 
 they fay there are wells alfo in fome of the other towers. A plan of the 
 round tower is to be feen in plate III. 
 
 Under thefe palaces was the private enclofed port of the Kings ", which Po " of the 
 might be oppofite to the great round tower at the fea, where ihips now M ° s "' 
 fometimes come to anchor, and where the Turks, till within this fifty 
 years, obliged all foreign fhips to ride, not fuffering them to anchor un- 
 der the caftle, as they do at prefent. In this part alfo was the ° ifle An- Amirrhodes. 
 tirrhodes, in which was a palace, and a fmall harbour or bay. This ifland 
 feems to have been entirely deftroy'd by the fea, and probably was op^ 
 pofite to the obelifks ; where there are ftill feen great ruins in the fea, and 
 where they often raife up very fine p pillars. Over thefe places a theatre is 
 mention'd ; and afterwards the part of the city which had its name from Neptunium. 
 Neptune, where there was a temple to him: This -feems to have been about 
 the corner of the bay In this diftricl alfo Antony built his Timonium ; to Timonium. 
 which he retired in difguft after his misfortunes. Next to it the Cadarium Cterarium. 
 is mention'd, where the temple of Cjefar is fuppofed to have been ,- in 
 which, according to Pliny, fome obelifks were erected. Further on 
 was the Emporium, or market-place. Then follow'd the docks for their Ma*et- 
 fhipping ; over which was the ancient city Rhacotis, with a fort of fuburbs j! a h ce ' 
 round it call'd Bucolis, becaufe it was chiefly inhabited by herdfmen. Baeota ' 
 
 There was a communication between the ports by two bridges at the Caufeway, 
 caufeway to the ' ifland, that began at the north weft corner of the town ; ™ d ^ r jfe 
 at the Heptaftadium to the weft ! , which was one of the necks of land 
 made by the fea and the lake. Here it is probable the fea has gain'd to 
 the eaft of the old port, as I have mark'd in the plan, where it now wafhes 
 the walls from the great corner tower; at which the walls make an el- 
 bow to the north weft; for 'tis evident it has gain'd on the fhoar, farther 
 on, where many grottos appear half wafh'd away by the fea. 
 
 Within this weftern port, antiently call'd Eunoftus, and now the old Weflem 
 port, was the port Cibotus, from which there was a navigable canal to port ' 
 the lake 1 ,- and there is now a canal or foffee along by the walls from the Canopus. 
 canal of Canopus to the fea, by which the water runs into the fea from 
 the great canal, at the overflow of the Nile. When any fhips that do 
 not belong to the Turks, by ftrefs of weather are obliged to go into the 
 old port, they muft remove into the other, as foon as they have an op- 
 portunity; which is the harbour allotted for the fhips of Chriftendom. 
 
 "TjsVoif fvmtutrtti o, ts xoi>7rjof A<^v, ia«5-oV 15 This account is very different from what is 
 
 i2i& jm fiuiribiuv, kj »j AuTi)'poi?@. vtjsiov Br^wpwov given by fome travellers, who fuppofe the Ne- 
 
 t2 o^nxi ai/^*©-, /-Wahcv af*a «, Ai^smu l^ov — . ptunium was where I place Cape Lochias, and 
 
 'Tff'fKHTeti tie Ts'rtf to &ea-r§ov' ht« to noo-a'<?iov, dyxuv that what is now without the port, was formerly 
 
 t)o ajro t£ ypn^H jcoiAy^tva jrqomnluxw, e£«v j'e^ov within it ; but any one, who considers the fitua- 
 
 WatreiSunf <u n^a&w AvTo/vi©. tn juaAAov ?rfo- tion of the feveral parts with Strabo's account, 
 
 nvav «*f pitov toV A///ev« EjrJ tw aVfoi xaTsc-HEv'cic-e may judge which is moll probable. 
 
 Sixnxv $<xu*Ktw<j> %v Ti^w'woy Trfoftiyogwrt. Strabo ' See note c. for this and the following places. 
 
 1. xvii. p. 794. ^ s See note f. It appears alfo by what follows 
 
 ° See note n. with regard to this ifle, and the in Strabo, that there was an aquedua to the ifland 
 
 Timonium, &c. over this caufeway and the bridges. 
 
 f When Strabo mentions that Antirrhodes lies • 'E|« rE™« A,f<w mrx to hWi/m- l <Sme 
 
 before o f mrS A.pfi©-, he feems to need emen- tsts o>«toV, S> i. Ki/3™ xxtfm, sVm iL a'uTo't 
 'Mion, and it — 
 rt being in t 
 ftus. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 dation, and it ought to be ts h »*M ; the latter » s »' f ,oi. e.Jot^ » Si tsts S,ip$ rt»T,' tfr A,'u»,s. 
 noftus l " S m ^ ^ ° ther P ° rt EU " '" r ° 1 ^"' ** M '«^"«'■' , ®'• Strab ° 1- xvii- P- 795- 
 
 In 
 
) 
 
 6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Panium. In the city a hill is mention'd call'd Panium, which, from the defcrip- 
 tion of it, feems to be the high hill within the walls near the weft 
 gate and the old " port. 
 
 The great The ftreet which extended the whole length of the city, from the gate 
 
 ftreet ' of Necropolis to the gate of Canopus, is faid to have been one hundred 
 feet wide *, and, doubtlefs, had in it many magnificent buildings, as ap- 
 pears from the granite pillars (till remaining in two or three parts. Among 
 
 Gymnaimm. them was the Gymnafium 1 , or publick fchools, to which there were Por- 
 ticos in extent above half a quarter of a mile; it might be where there 
 are great ruins to the weft of that ftreet, and feveral large red granite 
 
 Forum. pillars ftanding. The Forum, or court of judicature, was alfo probably 
 another building in this magnificent ftreet, and might be where fome pil- 
 
 GateofNe- Jars remain nearer the fea. The gate of Necropolis I fuppofe to be the 
 
 cropohs. to ^ e f outn we ft ) w hich is now built up: This gate has fome orna- 
 
 ments about it of Lions rampant. It is faid that the two chief ftreets of 
 Alexandria crofted one another at right angles; fo that if the ftreet, that 
 extended the whole breadth of the city, began at the old gate, it is pro- 
 bable the gate on the other fide was oppoiite to it, in fuch manner as that 
 the ftreet might anfwer this defcription. 
 
 Among the remains of Alexandria, the moft extraordinary are thofe 
 
 Cifterns. cifterns * which were built under their houfes, fupported by two or three 
 ftories of arches on columns, in order to receive the Nile water by the 
 canal, as they do at this day. In the fame manner the rain water is pre- 
 ferved in cifterns, under the houfes at Jerufalem ". This canal of Canopus 
 comes to the walls near Pompey's pillar, having run to the weft of it : It 
 has a paflage under the walls, and from that part a foffee has been cut 
 along the outfide of the walls to the fea ; but the water is not only 
 convey 'd to the cifterns from the canal, as it there enters the city, but alfo 
 before, from feveral parts of the canal, by paflages under ground to the 
 higher parts of the city. There are entrances down to thefe paflages in 
 feveral parts, in order to clean them: The cifterns alfo muft be cleanfed; 
 and the defcent down to them is by round wells, in which there are holes 
 on each fide, at about two feet diftance, to put the feet in to defcend 
 by : They draw up the water by a windlafs, and carry it in leather bags 
 on camels to the houfes. Before the Nile fills them again, the water in 
 many of them is not good ; owing, it may be, to their not keeping them 
 clean ; for in fome, and particularly that which belongs to the Latin con- 
 vent, the water is obferved to be always good. 
 
 The old city. The old city is entirely ruin'd, and the materials carried away to build 
 the new. Excepting a very few houfes at the Rofetto, and bagnio gates, 
 
 u "Eft <Te n«veiov, eIJ*@* t! p/et^D7ro'niT0v, ^o/3iM- [tr,*® 1 srA«Trt« JiaTflm srosga to yvpvafiov fiZffll -rr,s 
 «JWi o;^8o> stet^oj'oei, Sia xo^Ai'k ri-k «Wf3«G-iv E<ruA)jf T?f >c«voj/3*>t?f. Strabo J. xvii. p. 795. 
 
 s^or" «Vo Si T>jr xojvtpi^f eViv t*Vi«Vv oAyu Tfi'v ul^ii 1 Thofe who may examine thefe Catacombs 
 
 uVcxopsnjv auTw aravTa^o'&Ev. Strabo J. xvii. p. more exactly, may be able to correct: the plan I 
 
 795. have given, which I took with all the accuracy 
 
 x 'Axoitra f*)v o'Jor? x«T«TeTf(tfTtfj, IttxkKxtxi; it, the time and number of people that accompanied 
 
 a^«T>;A«Ta;if - oW) h srAaiTUTarouf' tVi nKiav jj jtAe- would admit of ; and notwithstanding I am fen- 
 
 Sgw ava7rEjr1at*£v«jf' ui SySt^a^ sr^of afid; TittMftv fible there may be fome miltakes. 
 dh*Khas. Strabo 1. xvii. p. 793. According to 3 In the third plate E. is the plan of one cf 
 
 Suidas to T/USfov was the fixth part of a Stadium thefe citterns. At H. is the well by which they 
 
 or furlong, that is one hundred feet. defcend, and over G. is the hole by which they 
 
 y K«'aai?ov <Je to j-u^vosViot, juo'^j j? s-aoWoir e^oy draw up the water, F. is the fection of one of 
 
 -rati yo«f ev i4eVoj .... \\7r0 SI tijs NE)cg07roA6wf sj tjrl To the cifterns, 
 
 there 
 
ONEGYPT. 7 
 
 there are only fome few mofques, and three convents within the old 
 walls. 
 
 One of the mofques is calFd the Mofque of a thoufand and one pil- Mofques. 
 lars ; it is to the weft, near the gate of Necropolis. I obferved in it four 
 rows of pillars to the fouth and weft, and one row on the other fides. 
 Here, they fay, was a church dedicated to St. Mark, and the Patriarch re- 
 fided at it ; being near the gate without which, 'tis faid, the Evangelift 
 was martyr'd. The other great mofque is that of St. Athanafius ; where 
 there was, without doubt, a church of that name. 
 
 At the church of the Copti convent they fliew the patriarchal chair b , Convents, 
 and pretend alfo to have the head of St. Mark, and fome even fay 
 that his body is there; as at the Greek convent they (hew fome things 
 which they fay relate to the martyrdom of St. Catherine in this city. The 
 Latins alfo have their convent in the old city, belonging to that of Jeru- 
 falem ; and there are always fome poor Arabs encamp'd about within 
 the walls, fo that 'tis dangerous 'being abroad after fun-fet, when all the 
 company begin to retire. 
 
 At the fouth weft corner is a large caftle, with a few foldiers in it, 
 no Europeans are admitted there. In the gates, efpecially that of Ro- 
 fetto, are many fine pieces of granite, and all over the city are feen frag- 
 ments of columns of beautiful marble; all fo many remains of the gran- 
 deur and magnificence of the antient city. 
 
 The new city is built on the ftrand to the north, without the walls, on New city, 
 the ground that feems to have been left by the fea, and makes a very 
 mean appearance ; taking up all that fpace in the plan without the walls, 
 except the ftrand to the eaft, and a great part not built on towards the 
 old port, as well as the fpot of the old ifle of • Pharos. In feveral houfes 
 built round courts on porticos, they have placed a great variety of pillars, 
 moftly granite, which were the ornaments of the antient city. The old 
 city was, without doubt, in a fiourifhing condition, when the trade of the 
 Eaft Indies was carried on that way by the Venetians ; and the decay of 
 it may be dated from the time the paflage was found out by the Cape of 
 Good Hope, when the commerce took another channel ; but when the 
 trade of coffee and other commodities began in fome meafure to flourifh, 
 about fifty years ago, the prefent city then began to rife out of the 
 ruins of the old. 
 
 Of the two obelisks, one is broke, and part of it lies on the ground. Obeiiiks. . 
 It has been found, by digging under ground, that the bottom of the 
 obelisks were rounded, and let into a plinth, as the Egyptians ufed to 
 place their pillars; as may be feen in the Observations on architecture. 
 Thefe obelisks might be before the temple of Neptune. If I made no 
 miftake in taking the height of that which is ftanding, by the quadrant, 
 it is fixty-three feet high ; the piece of the obelisk that is broke, is eigh- 
 teen feet long, and at the bottom meafured feven feet fquare. 
 
 Higher up in the city, over the ifle Antirrhodes, that is probably in a Theatrc - 
 line from it, the theatre is mention'd, which feems to have been at the 
 hill towards the gate of Rofetto, call'd Coum Dimas ; which I conjecture 
 from the fhape of that hill, where they were digging when I was in 
 Alexandria, in order to carry away the ftones. 
 
 b Of this chair there is a drawing in the fecond plate. 
 
 The 
 
s 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Pompey's The pillar commonly call'd Pompey's pillar is fituated on a fmall 
 plIlar ' height, about a quarter of a mile to the fouth of the walls, and may 
 be fuppofed to have been erefted after Strabo's time, as he makes no 
 mention of fuch an extraordinary monument : It might be fet up either 
 in honour of Titus, or Adrian, who were in Egypt. Near it are fome 
 fragments of granite pillars, four feet diameter, and it appears plainly 
 from many old foundations, that there has been fome magnificent build- 
 ing there, in the area of which, 'tis probable, this pillar was eredied ; 
 and fome Arabian hiftorians (on what authority I know not) call it the 
 Palace of Julius Ca?far c . This famous pillar is of red granite: Befides 
 the foundation, it confifts of three ftones; the capital, which is judged to 
 be about eight or nine feet deep, is of the Corinthian order, the leaves 
 being perfectly plain, and not the leaft indented, and feem to be the plain 
 laurel or bay leaf. Some failors have found means to get to the top, 
 which has a hole in it, from which it is judged that there was a ftatue 
 fixed on the top of the pillar; the fhaft of the pillar, taking in the up- 
 per Torus of the bafe, is of one Hone, the remainder of the bafe and 
 pedeftal of another, and all is raifed on a foundation built of feveral 
 ftones, in the nature of two plinths, of two teer of ftone, the lower fet- 
 ting out four inches beyond the upper, as that fets out a foot beyond 
 the plinth that is over it. This foundation is four feet nine inches high, 
 and the pedeftal, and part of the bafe*, which is of one ftone, are twelve 
 feet and a half high. I found the whole height by the fhadovv to be one 
 hundred and fourteen feet, which agrees pretty nearly with the account 
 fome others have given; fo that taking out the above meafures, and half 
 a foot for the upper Torus, the height of the fhaft is eighty-eight feet 
 nine inches, that is, about ten diameters of the column ; for I found the 
 diameter of it to be about nine feet ; the die of the pedeftal is twelve feet 
 two inches fquare, and the plinth is two feet wider. I obferved the fwell 
 in the pillar, and that it leans a little to the fouth weft. The pillar is 
 well preferved, except that it has fcaled away a very little to the fouth, and 
 more to the north eaft; the face of the foundation is reprefented in the 
 draught of the pillar, as it is to the weft fouth weft, where fome of 
 the ftones have been taken away, fo as to fhew the middle ftone, which 
 has been fo much talk'd of, as if the pillar refted on that alone, whereas 
 the work remains all round, on which the pillar is raifed ; and yet it is in- 
 deed probable that the main weight of the pillar does reft on this ftone, 
 which on that fide is about four feet wide, and appear'd to me to be a 
 mixture of alabafter and flints of a great variety of colours, and has 
 hieroglyphics on it. When I return'd a fecond time to Alexandria, this 
 part was repair'd in fuch a manner, that the lower plinth is made a feat 
 for people to fit on ; and fo 'tis no more to be feen in its antient ftate. 
 There are fome figns of a Greek infcription on the weft fide, which can 
 hardly be difcern'd, unlefs the fun fhines on it t It confifts of four lines ; 
 what letters I could make any conjecture of, I have given below d . 
 
 c The fourth plate contains a draught of the d i. 3 . . 7 OCOTATOI P. o. p. TA 
 
 pillar, according to the moll exact meafures I took TCC . . O CONIOT. TONAAEAAA, 
 
 of the lower parts, and the belt obfervations I Ale MAPPOAIION TON AA1 . . 
 
 could make on the whole. nocE APACC 
 
 To 
 
ONEGYPT. 9 
 
 To the weft, beyond the canal of Canopus, and near a Sheik's burial Catacombs, 
 place, are fome Catacombs ; they coniift of feveral apartments cut in 
 the rock, on each fide of an open gallery: On both fides of thefe apart- 
 ments are three ftories of holes, big enough to depofite the bodies in *. 
 Here we may fuppofe the fuburbs began, in which were gardens, fe- 
 pulchres, and places to prepare the bodies for interment ; as the quarter 
 call'd Necropolis, or city of the dead, was to the weft of the city. The 
 Catacombs extended above a mile to the weft, and there are a great num- 
 ber all along by the fea ; many of them have been wafh'd away by the 
 water, which in fuch a long trad of time has gain'd on the freeftone 
 rock, as appears by the remains of them feen in the fea. I was in fome 
 grottos cut out of the rock, in long narrow galleries running parallel to 
 one another, and fome alfo crofting them at right angles. Thefe I con- 
 jedured were thofe magazines in which they embalmed the bodies ". The 
 moft extraordinary Catacombs are towards the further end, and may be 
 reckon'd among the fineft that have been difcover'd; being beautiful rooms 
 cut out of a rock, and niches in many or them, fo as to depofite the bodies 
 in, adorn'd with a fort of Doric pilaftcrs on each fidef. The round room, 
 and that leading to it are very beautiful, and fo are the four rooms 
 drawn in the plan with niches. 
 
 Near a mile farther is a foflce between thirty and forty . paces broad, Foffce to th- 
 which feems to have been cut from the lake Mareotis to the fea. As the 
 city is faid to have extended a little beyond the canal that came into the 
 port Cibotus, this cannot be that canal, becaufe it is not only beyond the 
 city, but alfo further to the weft than Necropolis. It was thought hazar- 
 dous to go fo far as the foflee, only accompanied with a janizary and 
 fcrvant ; and it was with fome art that I led the janizary fo far : And in- 
 deed he began to be weary of waiting on me. It was certainly very hot 
 weather to go abroad all day, as I often did, and found the janizary full 
 employment, which is what they are not ufed to ; and not knowing their 
 cuftoms, I defign'd to gratify him at my departure, whereas they like to 
 make fure of fomething, and to have a fmall piece of money every time 
 they go out, fo he always pretended fome excufe not to go with me : But 
 the greateft reafon of all was, that I fuppofe fome people had talked to 
 him on the part of the governor, that J obferved every thing about the 
 city in a manner not ufually praftifed, and might fay fome other things to 
 deter him from going any more with me ; for 'tis ufual for the governor 
 to have a certain fum paid for every ftranger that goes out of the gate 
 with the janizaries of Alexandria, whom they oblige to pay it, but if they 
 go out with the janizaries of Cairo, the Governor has no power over them 
 to oblige them to pay ; fo I took one of the janizaries of the place, and 
 paid him the ufual Tribute, and found myfelf at perfed liberty to do what 
 I pleafed. 
 
 * A plan of thefe Catacombs A. and a fcftion u EEr' «' NtxnVoM;, ii r! wftifm, it » tihtl T t 
 of them B. may be feen in Plate V. It appears woaao) k, t«$«< k, Kttmywyx), ar^of t«V t»^hai 
 that fome of them have been plaifter'd over, and T u;v vskjwv inniSaxi. Strabo xvii. p. 795. 
 adornM with a fort of cornifh in ftucco work. The plan of them in plate V. is marked C. 
 
 Some 01 them had alfo other fmaller cells within the niches, with pilafters on each fide, are repre- 
 them at the end or on one fide, which might be fented at D. 
 for children. 
 
 Vol. I. D I had 
 
IO 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Ruins to the J na d a n account from a gentleman who had been about thirty Aitfes 
 weft of Alexandria, and about two hours fouth of the tower of Arabia, 
 in a vale to the weft of the lake Mareotis, that he faw under ground a 
 building fupported by thirty-fix marble pillars : This probably was Tapo- 
 Tapoffifc, firis *, faid to be at a diftance from the fea, and this building might be for 
 the great folemn meeting that was held there; and if fo, 'tis probable 
 the tower of Arabia is the old Cynofema, and the vale above-mention'd 
 might be what they call Baher-Bellomah, or the fea without water, which 
 I fhall have occafion to mention. 
 Lake Mare- The great lake Mareotis, which was formerly navigable, is now gene- 
 otls - rally dry, and has only water in it for fome time after great rains : It is 
 probable the canals which convey 'd the water to it from the Nile, have 
 been obftructed, and fill'd in fuch a long courfe of time before thofe 
 canals were made, or ii at any time after they were choak'd up, it might 
 have been a plain, as it is at prelent ; and Pomponius Mela, fpeaking of 
 the lake Mceris, by which he feems to mean this great lake, as I obferve 
 elfewhere, fays that what is now a lake, was formerly fields \ 
 Omi of .The canal of Canopus, which brings the water to Alexandria, would 
 Canopus. JJkgwifg be flopped up, if they were not fometimes at great expence in 
 cleaning it, which was done when I was in Egypt, and the water con- 
 tinued in it two months longer than it did before it was eleanfed. There 
 is an opinion that this whole canal was lined with brick ; and 'tis cer- 
 tain about Alexandria, in fome parts the fides are cafed with ftone, tho' 
 it might be only fo there, as a quay for the conveniency of unloading the 
 boats. This canal runs about half a mile fouth of the walls of the old 
 city, and then turning to the north, near Pompey's pillar, in that courfe 
 it runs in under the walls of the city, the bafon of the old lake eominor 
 almoft up to the canal ; and about three miles from the town, it turns 
 to the weft from a northern direction. 
 Kippodro- The racing place, call'd the Hippodromus y, without the gate of Ca 
 mui nopus, was probably in the plain towards the canal, beyond the high 
 ground, where I fuppofe that gate was. 
 
 I made fome excurfions to the eaft, to fee what remains there were of 
 antiquity. In thefe expeditions I often met fome Arabs on horfeback, who 
 would voluntarily offer to guard me to the gate of the city, in order to 
 get a fmall gratuity; but when I found out their defign, and was fatisfied 
 there was no danger, I fignified to them that they need not give them- 
 felvcs that trouble, on which they always went quietly away. Thefe 
 Arabs, when they have any difference with the city, as often happens, 
 will not permit any body to go out, and in a manner blockade the city. 
 S U Afaan- f The people of Alexandria have a very bad character, efpecially the mi- 
 drians. litary men, and among them particularly the janizaries : They very well 
 anfwer the character Csfar * gives of the foldiery of Alexandria in his 
 time; theyraife tumults, plunder, and are often guilty of affaflinations, 
 and 'tis very difficult to get any juftice of them. 
 
 * Ejt« KtnoV tri^tci, efT« TaTTo'tre^if k'j: iirl &«AaVhj y.Hu;:xi di tthKui Siwgvya; T?f itavuSin.^. 
 
 umiiyvt iv Staidly jkt^vAip- Scrabo I. xvii. p. 799. Strabo 1. 17. p. 795. 
 
 * See note c. and the following notes in the * At the latter end of the third book, De Bella 
 geographical diflertation. Civili. 
 
 Going 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 IT 
 
 Going about two miles to the eaft by the canal, I came to a height 
 to the north of it, on which are feveral ruins that probably arc the re- 
 mains of Eleufis, mention'd by Strabo as a village of Alexandria in this Elcufc, 
 fituation, near Nicopolis. 
 
 Nicopolis ' was three miles and three quarters from Alexandria, and Nicopolis 
 received its name from the victory Auguftus gain'd there over Antony, 
 and on that account the place was much improved by him. At the 
 iirft entrance on the height from the plain, I obferved they had been 
 digging out ftones, which, as they faid, were foundations of a wall ; but 
 I faw plainly there had been a fmall channel lined with ftone, catried 
 along under ground, which probably convey'd the water from the canal 
 to the refervoir of Nicopolis ; which, tho' it may feem a very great and 
 extraordinary work, on account of the height of the ground, yet there 
 are fuch paflages made under ground in Syria to convey the water for 
 many miles, with piles down at certain diftances, both to bring up the 
 earth as they made the aqueduct, and alfo to clear it in cafe of any ob- 
 ftruflions, as before defcribed, from the canal of Canopus to Alexandria. 
 Towards the fea, it is an uneven high ground all the way to Nicopolis, 
 on which there are many ruins; but about the fite of Nicopolis, there are 
 remains of a very extraordinary building, which is commonly call'd the 
 Theatre, and I imagine to have been fomcthing in the nature of a Ro- 
 man caftrum ; 'twas built with an entrance in on every fide, and fix fe- 
 micircuiar towers, and a fquare one at each corner, according to the 
 plan I have given of it in Plate VI. By the manner in which the ground 
 lies, there feems to have been fome buildings within : It is built of fmall 
 hewn ftone, there being three teers of brick at the diftance of every four 
 feet and a half ; the mortar is very thick, which made me conjecture that 
 it was built towards the time of the lower Empire ; the walls are not any 
 where entire, but could not be lefs than twenty feet high. 
 
 About four leagues from Alexandria, is Aboukir, called by Europeans 
 Bikiere ; it is on the weft fide of a wide bay, which has to the eaft 
 that head of land that makes out to the north from Rofetto : On this 
 little cape, to the weft of the bay, there is a garrifon'd caftle, and fhips 
 ride here in tolerable fafety. We were lodged with a Jew, who is vice- Bikiere. 
 conful to all the trading nations of Europe, to affift the {hipping that 
 come to anchor there. We fent a letter we had to the governor, who 
 order'd his lieutenant to come to us to offer us his fervice; and this offi- 
 cer came afterwards, and ferved to us the coffee the governor fent us. 
 
 We had feen in the way about two leagues from Alexandria, fuch chan- 
 nels made of ftone near the furface of the ground, as I fuppofed were 
 made to Nicopolis ; by which probably the water of the canal was con- 
 vey'd to thefe parts. In the way alfo is a fait lake, the water of which, 
 they fay, comes by under-ground paffages from the fea, and is much 
 falter than the fait lakes} that have no communication with the fea. 
 
 A chain of rocks extend above a league from Bikiere to an ifland, which 
 is about half a mile long, and a furlong wide ; there are remains in it of 
 
 ^ * Aia & is 'I^iWfCpi &eA&aVri-Tf NilwflWf §?/tf, J'ro'jWev o £f$#?0{ Kcuffu% tci toVov. Strabo ]. xvii, 
 t;£Vff« KetToiKi'*!' in) Sf*\etrlip voACMf s'jt sA«t7oi. T^ia- p. 795. 
 KBVTX Jt «Vl» «'?T9 Tjjff 'Ah^Xli^a; fdiiat. TstOV 
 
 fome 
 
I 2, 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 fome under-ground paffages, and of a piece of a flatue we conjectured 
 was a Sphynx. 1 obferved alfo that a chain of rocks extended from it 
 towards Alexandria, fo that probably the fea has gain'd much on the land ; 
 which may be conjectured not only from this appearance, but is alfo evi- 
 dent from a view of the fhoar itfelf, where not only many works cut in 
 the rocks are feen in the fea, but alfo ruins of antient buildings; and pof- 
 fibly this ifland might formerly be the cape of Tapofiris b , where there 
 was alfo a city of that name : This was thought to be the antient Thorns, 
 faid to be fo called from the King who entertain'd Menelaus and Helen. 
 About two miles nearer Alexandria, are ruins of an antient temnle in 
 
 Tapofiris. the water: Whether it were the temple of Venus, Arfinoe of Tapofiris, 
 or fome other temple that might be at Zephyrium, mentioned in the way 
 to Nicopolis, 1 leave the reader to judge; there are pieces of columns in 
 the water three feet diameter. I faw alio three broken ftatues of Sphynxes, 
 about feven feet long, and three others about four feet long, moft of them 
 
 Zephyiium. of a yellow marble. I took particular notice of the flatue of a woman 
 of red granite, twelve feet long, and a block of marble four feet dia- 
 meter, which feem'd to have been the head of a coloflal flatue, and manv 
 pieces about it appear" d to be fragments of the fame flatue; particularly 
 the hands, which from the wrift to the knuckles meafured eighteen inches. 
 
 Near this building alfo are other ruins, part of which feem to have been 
 a grand portico, there being about it many pieces of pillars of grey and 
 red granite. To the fouth of thefe are many red granite pillars, which 
 from the order they lie in, and the fhape of the ground, feem to have 
 belong'd to a round temple ; moft of them are fluted, and three feet three 
 
 • inches diameter. Several pieces of plain pillars lie together two feet dia- 
 
 meter ; I conjectured that they might belong to the portico, and that the 
 fluted pillars were within the temple. All along the fhoar are many ruins, 
 and the rocks at the bottom of the fea feem cut out in fuch a manner, as 
 fhews that there have been great buildings there. They dig wells all a- 
 bout this fhoar, and find water that is very little brackifh, according to 
 the account that Hirtius 'gives of the Alexandrian war; from which one 
 may conjecture that the water may come not only from the canals, which 
 fometimes have very little water in them, but alfo from the Nile, which, 
 it has been found by experience, fills all the fandy foil of Egypt as high as 
 the level of the waters of that river. Tho' experiments have been made 
 to prove that frefh water may be found by digging wells on fhoar's above 
 high water mark : And Csfar feems to have thought that the water came 
 from the fea. So that it may be doubted whether, fo near the fhoar, the 
 water comes from the fea or the Nile. 
 
 b Stevi) -rif Ttfu/ai ustk^o omxa ts te TztKo-yxs c Puteis foffis aquam dulcem polTe reperiri af- 
 
 x, r^f Jjw'guj-^-, iv ij i ijTE fAi^x Tairo'rKgir, /xetos firmabat : omnia cnim lirora naturaiirer aquaj 
 
 t>;v NixcVoAiE x, to ZfCufiov, cZxga mhjkw e^ko-« Af- dulcis venas habere: quod fi alia efTec ikon's 
 
 ants Afp^bJiVtif. To il arotAaiov it, 0wm nva eeto'aek ^Egyprii natura, atque omnium reliquorum, &c. 
 
 EvTst^oi <p xa iv inuvvfiov Ta (3«ffiA£ojf tS Jii-ufiivx Hirtiuj, de Bella Akx. 
 MmWv te ^ 'ZKbrtv £evi'«. Scrabo 1. 1 7. p. 800. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 13 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 From Alexandria to Rosetto and Grand Cairo. 
 
 f" "f " A V I N G embark'd at Leghorn on the feventh of September, one 
 J7X thoufand feven hundred thirty-feven, old ftyle, we arrived at Alex- 
 andria on the twenty-ninth of the fame month, being only a week in the 
 voyage, from the time we loft fight of Sicily. On the twenty-fourth of 
 October, we fet out from Alexandria to Rofetto; and leaving Bikiere on 
 the left hand about a league, we came to the Madea or ferry, about two Madea. 
 leagues from Bikiere. The paflage is over the outlet of a lake that is fup- 
 pofed to have been the lower part of the Canopic branch of the Nile, as Canopic 
 this ferry clofe by the fea muft have been the mouth of it.- Hera- Hcradium 
 cleum a was probably fomewhere near, from which it was alio call'd the 
 Heracleotic branch. Canopus c I fuppofe to have been higher up this Canopus. 
 river, probably about the place where the canal went out of it. This 
 place was famous for the diflblute manner in which the Alexandrians di- 
 verted themfelves there, as well as in many other places along the canal 
 that led to it: It is faid to have its name from Canopus, Menelaus's pilot, 
 who died there. On the other fide of this ferry is a cane, where paffen- 
 gers repofe, and think themfelves fafe from the Arabs, who rarely go to 
 that fide. All the country here is a fandy defert; it might be otherwife 
 when this branch of the Nile annually overflowed, but there being a ridge 
 of low fandy hills running from north to fouth near the Nile, it is polfi- 
 ble that the fruitful foil may have been cover'd with the fand blown from 
 thofe hills. It might however be a curious experiment to dig and fee if 
 any fuch foil is to be found as is ufually brought by the Nile. The fand 
 changes fo often, that it would be difficult to find the way, if they had 
 not built eleven pillars acrofsthe plain, which I conjectured might be about 
 half a mile apart, in order to direct the way, which otherwife it would 
 be difficult to find at fuch times as the wind raifes great clouds of fand, 
 as it often does in Egypt. At one of thofe pillars an arch is turned, and 
 an earthen vafe is placed under it ; which, by fome charity, is kept full of 
 Nile water, for the benefit of travellers. 
 
 In this journey I had the honour to accompany the Englifh conful, who 
 was met by his vice-conful of Rofetto, as alfo by many of the French, a- 
 bove a league from that town. When we were come within the fandy 
 hills, we were furprized at the fight of a magnificent tent, where a hand- 
 fome collation was prepared. After this refrefhment, we were all mount- 
 ed on fine horfes, fent out by the governor of the city, each attended by 
 a groom on foot, and fo arrived at Rofetto. The next morning the go- 
 vernor fent a prefent of fheep and fowl to the conful, which I fuppofe 
 was return'd by fomething of much greater value. 
 
 Rofetto is on the weft fide of the branch of the Nile, antiently called Rofetto. 
 Bolbitinum,' which Herodotus fays was made by art. This Town is called 
 by the Egyptians Rafchid, and is efteem'd one of the moft pleafant places 
 
 ' M fro! a'i Tiv KaywGo'v es-i to 'H^kVahok to UganAWf kXi&vS^as sr^jj Hsm, etoj'vv^^ KttvuGx tS MeveAoiV 
 f'^ov il^sf. Strabo, I. xvii. p. Sol. X»£e{f*TK ( aVo&otvo'vT©. 0MW&I, ixwro TB Xagani- 
 
 e Kzvwo©. J'ts-J ffoAjc EV eiKOff"! Kj iutrir ro&if aiVa' t<£c\, &C. Strabo 1. xvii. p. 801. 
 
 Vol. I. E in 
 
i 4 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 in Egypt; it is near two miles in length, confifting of about two or three 
 ftreets. It would be carrying conjectures too far to fuppofe that the Mile- 
 fians fettled here when firft they arrived in Egypt, as they came into the 
 branch of Bolbitinum, went out afterwards eaft of it, and built the wall 
 of the Milefians, and at length fettled at Naucratis f . Any one that fees 
 the hills about Rofetto, would judge that they had been the antient bar- 
 riers of the fea, and conclude that the fea had not loft more ground than 
 the fpace between the hills and the water. The fine country of Delta, on 
 the other fide of the Nile, and two beautiful iflands a little below the 
 town, make the profpedt very delightful ; the country to the north is im- 
 proved with moft pleafant gardens of oranges, lemons, and citrons, and 
 almoft all forts of fruits, with the agreeable variety of groves of palm- 
 trees, and fmall lakes in different parts ; and when the fields are green 
 with rice, which is much cultivated here, it adds a great beauty to the 
 country. Great part of the land of Rofetto belongs to Mecca, and they 
 have a tradition that a relation of Mahomet was there, and lived at a 
 place where they have built a mofque towards the north end of the town. 
 They have alfo a notion that if Mecca were taken from them, the devo- 
 tion of it would be removed to this place. 
 
 They have here a great manufactory of ftriped and other coarfe lin- 
 nens; but the chief bulinefs of the place is the carriage of goods between 
 this town and Cairo; all European merchandizes being brought to this 
 place from Alexandria by fea, and loaded on other boats to be carried to 
 Cairo, as thofe brought from Cairo on the Nile, are here put into large 
 boats to be fent to Alexandria. For this purpofe the Europeans have their 
 vice-confuls and factors here to tranfact their bulinefs, and letters are 
 brought regularly from Alexandria by land, to be fent by boats to Cairo, 
 on the days they fet forwards; but letters of greater confequence, that 
 require difpatch, are fent by foot meffengers acrofs the deferts directly to 
 Cairo. Tho' Rofetto is fo near the fea, yet the water is very good, un- 
 lefs when the north wind blows very ftrong, or the Nile is at loweft, 
 when the water is a little brackifh. It is remarkable that the Nile does not 
 rife here above three or four feet, becaufe its banks are low, and the 
 water fpreads itfelf all over the country. 
 Nakedfaims. I faw in Rofetto two of thofe naked faints, who are commonly natural 
 fools, and are had in great veneration in Egypt; one was a lufty, elderly 
 man, the other a youth about eighteen years old. As the latter went 
 along the ftreet, I obferved the people killed his hand. I was alfo told 
 that on Fridays, when the women go to the burial places, they frequently 
 fit at the entrance of them ; and that they not only kifs their hands, but 
 fhew them the fame refpect that was paid to a certain heathen idol, and 
 feem to expect the fame kind of advantage from it. I myfelf faw one of 
 thefe faints fitting at a mofque door in the high road without the gates of 
 Cairo, with a woman on each fide of him, at the time the caravan was 
 going to Mecca, and a multitude of people were pafling by, who are fo 
 accuftom'd to fuch fights, that they took no notice of it. 
 
 Mtf$Hi xaTcl Kua|«'ftj (It©- i' ft tuj MiJJwk) k«- NwZx^tcv $ freAv Tjfc SjgiJfaf vVefSEv. Strabo J. xvii. 
 
 nt%av w to sou* to BoAfrJiVmy' at' EfcCemff sTa^i^ar p. 801. 
 
 TO VttfUf J'*v«ffAiVfO(»T£f Iff TflVZstlTi- 
 
 I went 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. JS 
 
 I went about two miles north to the caftle of Rofetto, On the weft fide Grtie of 
 of the river ; it is a fquare building, with round towers at the corners ; lC ' 
 there are port holes near the bottom of it : I obferved about them fe- 
 veral pieces of yellow marble, many of which had hieroglyphics on 
 them, and might be the pieces of feme broken obelifk. I faw here fe- 
 veral iron cannon made in the old way, with bars and rings, being in 
 two or three pieces, which fit into one another; and three large brafs 
 cannons. On one were ornaments of Flower de Luces, on the other was 
 a tree with two letters for the arms. This caftle is built of brick, cafed 
 with ftone, and is faid to be the work of Keyck Bey, who lived, as I 
 was infonn'd, about three hundred years ago ; but I fhould rather think 
 it was built about the time of the holy wars, and that this Bey might 
 repair it, and make the port holes. A little lower down, on the other 
 fide of the river, is a platform of guns, and to the eaft of it are fait 
 lakes, where they collect, a great quantity of fait. At the mouth of the 
 river is an ifland of a triangular form, called Latomia, where a channel is ifle Latomia. 
 mark'd in the draught of it in the fifth plate, it is overflow'd when the 
 wind blows from the north weft, and then becomes two iflands; it is 
 about a mile in circumference, and there are fandy hillocks from eaft to 
 weft along the middle of it. To the fouth, the ifland is a fort of morafs, 
 and to the north it is fandy. It is probable this ifland had its name from 
 the Greeks, on account of the divifion of the water here, by which two 
 entrances are made at the mouth of the river. Without the mouth of 
 the eaftern channel, are ruins of a caftle at fome diftance, which, if I 
 miftake not, is on an ifland, as reprefented in the map ; it is called Bur- 
 gimagefelzareh-Achmed, from the perfon that built it. 
 
 At Rofetto I paid a vifit to Cofmas, the Greek patriarch of Alexan- ^ a ' Uilh 
 dria, whofe ufual relidence is at Cairo. As I was introduced by the 
 dragoman, or interpreter from the conful, I had all the honours done 
 me that are ufual at an eaftern vifit. Firft a lighted pipe is offer'd, 
 brought by the fervant to you, then a faucer of fweetmeats is carried a- 
 bout, and a little in a fmall fpoon given to every perfon. After the coffee 
 is ferved, the fervants bring to every one a bafon of fherbet, with a hand- 
 kerchief on the arm for them to wipe after they have drank; and when 
 it is time to go away, they fprinkle rofe water on the hands, with which 
 the gueft rubs his face ; then the incenfe is brought, which he receives 
 leaning the head forward, and holding out his garment on each fide to 
 take the fmoak. This compliment is paid only where they would fhew 
 a particular regard, and the matter makes a fign for it, when he thinks 
 it is time the vifit fhould end, or the gueft offers to go away ; which is 
 never done when the vifiter is much fuperior, till he makes a motion to 
 go. In thefe vifits, every thing is done with the greateft decency, and 
 moft profound filence; their flaves or fervants ftanding at the bottom of 
 the room, with their hands join'd before them, and with the utmoft at- 
 tention watch every motion of their mafter, who commands them by 
 figns. 
 
 There is great difficulty in fettling the antient branches of the Nile, af- 
 ter its divifion into feven parts, when it runs through that part of Egypt 
 which was called Delta, by reafon that many of them have been fill'd up 
 for want of being clean'd; and the maps that have been made of thofe 
 
 parts 
 
16 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 parts are not intirely to be depended upon. About four leagues north 
 eaft of Rofetto, is the large lake Brulos, which I fuppofe is the extent 
 of the Sebennytic lake, as well as of the lake Butice B , of the antients. 
 About the eaft end of this lake, the Sebennytic branch might empty itfelf 
 into the fea. In two manufcript maps of Egypt, procured at Venice, and 
 probably made when the Venetians had fo great an intercourfe with Egypt, 
 I find a place called Boltin, on this lake, which may be the old Butus, 
 where there was an oracle of Diana, and on an ifland near it was Her- 
 mopolis, which might be Brulos placed by Sicard in an ifland before this 
 lake. It may be fuppofed that this lake, which is now of fo great an 
 extent, takes in all the other lakes mention'd by the antients to the eaff, 
 and that the fea breaking in has made this alteration; for tho' the fea may 
 have loft juft about the great mouths of the rivers, yet it appears plainly 
 to have gain'd in other parts. 
 Departure On the fourth of November I embark'd with the conful for Cairo, 
 on board a fine galley. They are flat-bottom'd veffels with three mafts ; 
 near half of them being cover'd, they have in them one large handfome 
 room, and near the ftern a fmaller for the women, if there are any on 
 board. They are made with lattife windows all round, and have fwivel 
 cannon faften'd towards the prow. With a good brifk wind, they fail well 
 againft the current, but when there is little wind, or it is contrary, the 
 men draw them up with a cord faften'd to the maft ; tho' if the wind 
 is high and contrary, they are obliged to lie by, as they commonly do at 
 night, efpecially if the Nile is low, when they are in greater danger of 
 running aground. At fuch times the people divert themfelves in telling 
 long Arabian ftories ; and if they are obliged to flop by day, the boat- 
 men frequently pafs away the time in acting fome low farces. The fail- 
 ing on the Nile is very pleafant ; the country on each fide is rich and 
 fruitful, the villages having palm-trees planted round them, appear like 
 fo many fine groves, as, when the country is overflown, they look like 
 iflands, as they really are : But Egypt appears in greateft beauty in the 
 month of December, when it is the middle of the fpring, and the whole 
 country is cover'd with green corn and clover, and many plants appear in 
 full bloffom. 
 
 Foua. We came to Foua, above twenty miles from Rofetto, and almoft op- 
 
 pofite to a canal, which, I fuppofe, was the antient continuation of 
 the Canopic branch. This canal, they told me, communicated with 
 the canal of Alexandria, and is probably that which was navigated when 
 the trade was carried on this way to Alexandria, at which time the Eu- 
 ropean faflors lived at Foua ; but the boats having been often robbed by 
 the Arabs, they were obliged to make ufe of this conveyance by fea, and 
 removed to Rofetto about fifty or fixty years ago. It is probable that 
 
 Maucratis. Naucratis 1 was about this place, which was built by the Milefians, and 
 was afterwards made the great mart for all foreign goods, the fhips being 
 obliged to bring them to this place; or, if they were put into any other 
 port, and could not conveniently come to this city, they were obliged 
 to fend them round by boats, fo that it muft have been a very confide- 
 
 E Merx Si to t£v MlAtiffi'oJV rtt-%@r 67r) TO £io£Vvu- 1 'Eu »£icEfl« J\ iv tw AsAtos id jUev t£ sroro^uw 
 
 TIKoV VptieVTt rfl'uflt, Al^Ut flflV UY K ETtf « BSTJXl} N«uVf«TJf. $tl"ab0 1. XVli. p. 80J. 
 
 ««AoTa:i «Vj Bou'tk nAWf, Strabo 1. xvii. p. 802. 
 
 rable 
 
ON EGYPT. 17 
 
 rable city * Ten miles to the eaft of this branch of the Nile was Sais ', Sais. 
 fuppofed by fome to be the Sin of the fcriptures. Herodotus m gives an 
 extraordinary account of a room cut out of one ftone, that was placed be- 
 fore the temple of Minerva in this city ; it was on the outride twenty-one 
 cubits long, fourteen broad, and eight high, and within above eighteen 
 long, twelve broad, and five high; two thoufand men were employ 'd 
 three years in bringing it down by water from Elphantine at the cataract, 
 being probably cut out of one of the iflands there. Near Sais was the 
 afylum of Ofiris, where it was the common opinion Ofiris was buried,- 
 Ilis having depofited feveral coffins in different places, that Typhon might 
 not find out his body, according to the Egyptian mythology. 
 
 About a quarter of the way to Cairo, is the fepulchre of Sherk Ahmed 
 Bedoui, who was the fon of one of Mahomet's uncles ; and here fome of 
 the common people fay the pilgrimage of devotion would be made, in 
 cafe Mecca were taken from them. Stopping at a village for want of 
 wind, we went to fee the governor of the place, who oft "er'd us Coffee ; 
 and when vve came away, he fent after us a fmall prefent of fifty eggs 
 as a compliment, and a mark of his refpect. In this country I faw the 
 way of making Indigo blue, with an herb called Nil. We arrived at Ou- 
 arden and went to fee the governor, who would have entertain'd us, and 
 fent a prefent of a hundred eggs and a lamb, and afterwards came on 
 horfeback to the boat, and return'd the vifit ; and having the ufual ho- 
 nours done him on that occafion, it was fignified by the conful's people 
 that wine would be an acceptable prefent to him, which accordingly was 
 fent after it was dark, not to give umbrage to confeientious muffulmen. 
 
 The defert of faint Macarius is about a fmall day's journey weft ofneftrrsof 
 this town, where there are four Copti convents, to which there is a great Su Macarius - 
 refort by the Copti Chriftians ; and in order to go, they commonly land 
 here. Beyond thefe convents are the lakes of Natron °, and the fea Lakes of 
 without water, as they call it, in Arabic, Baher-Bellomah, where they find Natron ' 
 eagle ftones ; and the rocks are in fuch fhapes, that they may give the 
 common people occafion to fay there are petrified fhips in this place. It 
 feems to have been an antient communication from the lake Mareotis to 
 the lake Mceris : I was inform'd that about thefe convents there are a great 
 number of wild boars. The night before we finifh'd our voyage, was 
 fpent in mirth and firing of cannon, on our friends coming out to meet 
 us. The next evening we came to the village of Hele, near Cairo, which 
 feems to be fome remains of the name of the antient Heliopolis, that 
 was about five miles diftant. On the morning of the eleventh of No- 
 vember, a great number of people came out to meet the conful, who, 
 mounted on a fine horfe, was preceded by fix janizaries ; and, according 
 to an eaftern cuftom of ftate, a man went before and fprinkled water on Arrival at 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 k See Herodotus, 1. ii. c. 179. in Sc ti i!, Sxen wi%w iSfot Si, miciftnutttiKti' 
 
 1 'A7td Si 7S aroT«f*5 Sla^oivov h'iXtes. ij £oiV, k, v^as Se 6M7U' tocutoo jAv t« pijfa t%w$ev -riir siyt); 
 
 ftixjov tgsv't^c uVeg&e to tS 'Otn'eVo? "Ac-uAov, iv u t«j juovoA&if est' arag eo-w&ev to pijxot ottTUKalSixa 
 
 vmSxi Ton 'Ot/^iv tputh. Strabo 1. XVII. p. 803. ur,%tw, kj aruj.o'voj" to Ss Eu^or SuSzhu st^eoju' to 1 Se 
 
 111 To Si i% >jKif« os'vtewv, aAAoi l*ocA<5"oi &avwa'^oj, vij-or et^ewv ift. Herod, ii. p. I ys. 
 
 Efi tc'oY oiMftx jUsvo'Ai^ov ixo'/xiffE e§ 'eae$ avTi'v^f " See note 1. 
 
 sroAiflf' x, TSro Exo'^j£e pii it etE06 Tjsia, SiyAhtai Si 61 ° 'T?rffl Si MopE/A^swr «Vj Sua viToi'oei arAeifov nTfyav 
 
 Sr^OOETETK^aTO «V<^£f UyuyiiS, X, 8T0( «ff«UTEf E£Hfr«l jij VOfMf NlTfJIWTIf. Strabo 1. XVli. p. 80j. 
 
 xu^Eg^xar t£? Si siyyii txujih to ^*s* ftijx^. EijwSi* 
 
 Vol. I. F the 
 
18 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 the ground to lay the duft. In this manner he enter'd the city, follow'd 
 by his friends and dependants on humble affes; no Chriftian, except the 
 conful, being allow'd to ride on a horfe in the city. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Between Damiata and Grand Cairo. 
 
 TH O' I did not make a voyage on the eaftern branch of the Nile, 
 till I left Grand Cairo to go out of Egypt, taking the fame way 
 again on my return into Egypt, yet I choofe, in this place, to finifh my 
 account of Delta, and the country about it. 
 Eaftem The Bubaftic and the Pelufiac branches are the fame ; Ptolemy calls it 
 
 theNile. t ne Bubaftic branch below Bufiris, which is fuppofed to have been at 
 Baalbait, to the north eaft of Mattalla ; fo that the Tanitic branch muft 
 have gone out of the Bubaftic ftill lower, and I fuppofe it was at the 
 river that runs north of Manfoura, and that this river was the continua- 
 tion of the Pelufiac branch, going on as I have mark'd it in the map ; 
 but being obftrufted, the waters feem to have made their courfe chiefly 
 by the Tanitic branch, which runs now by Damiata, and partly by a 
 fmaller channel to the eaft of it p . 
 
 The country from Damiata to Gaza is inhabited chiefly by Arabs, 
 who are under no regular government. The river, or torrent of Egypt 
 feems, without any difpute, to be the rivulet near Rhinocorura q . I fup- 
 Lake Sir- pofe that the fea has gain'd on the lake Sirbonis, there being no account 
 to be had of it ; 'tis not improbable that the rocks about this place were 
 the antient barriers between the fea and the lake ; the. poets feign that 
 Typhon lay under it. Either this lake had the fame properties as the 
 dead fea, or Strabo, by miftake, has applied them to it '. Near it was 
 Mount Caf- Mount Caffius*, defcribed as a fandy hill running out into the fea, which 
 feems to be the place now called Tenere by mariners. At the foot of it, 
 in the town, was a temple to Jupiter Caffius ; and Pompey being mur- 
 der'd near, was buried on this hill. 
 Lake Men- The great lake called Menzale, between the antient Pelulium and Da- 
 z '"' s ' miata, feems to be made by the fea on thefe low and marfhy grounds, 
 which were formerly overflow'd by the Nile *. This lake abounds in fea 
 fifh, and great quantities are brought to Damiata, efpecially a fort of mul- 
 lets, the roes of which, when cured, they call Botargo ; and when they 
 would preferve them in the beft manner, they dip them in wax, and 
 carry them not only all over Turkey, but alfo to many parts of Chriften- 
 dom. Pelufium is thought by fome to be Sin j but it is doubted whether 
 it was this city or Sais. Twelve miles from Pelufium was Migdol, men- 
 tion'd by Jeremiah, and famous for the defeat of the Syrians, by Neco 
 King of Egypt. 
 
 P See geographical ditfertation. ea^or, Efirs to n^wfe n McZyvx trwua x«t«i kj Auy 
 
 ^ See geographical difi'ertation on this fubjedc. tsu /e^ov Kan's. Strabo 1. xvi. p. 760. 
 
 ' See Strabo xvi. p. 763. 1 T» srgoV tw n^acn'w /3^a&gct, « nam 6 
 
 ronw. Strabo 1. xvi. p. 760. 
 
 The 
 
ON EGYPT. r 9 
 
 The road for fhipping to ride in at this mouth of the Nile, is about Road of 
 two leagues from the land, and very dangerous ; infomuch that when Damlit3 ' 
 the wind is high, they are often obliged to flip their cables and go to fea. 
 For feven or eight leagues from the land, they know by the founding 
 plummet if they are near Egypt; as within that diftance it brings up the 
 black, flimy mud of the Nile, that fettles at the bottom of the fea, which 
 is often of great ufe in navigation, the low land of this country not being 
 feen afar off. 
 
 There are two bars of fand at the mouth of the river, which make Mouth of 
 the entrance very difficult, even for fmall boats ; notwithftanding veffels ofDamiau. 
 of thirty or forty tun watch their fit opportunities to come in unloaded, 
 and are laid up at the town during the winter feafon, or when they have 
 no bufinefs. As the people here are very abfolute, fo in order to encou- 
 rage the navigation of their own boats, they will not permit any fhip- 
 boats to come to the town; and all the goods are carried out in fmall 
 boats, two leagues to fea to the fhipping. On the fandy point, to the 
 weft of the entrance, above a quarter of a mile from the end of it, is a 
 fmall round caftle, and a mile higher on the other fide, at Ifhbely Borge, 
 where the cuftom-houfe is kept, is a ruin'd caftle of brick, laid to be 
 built by Lewis the ninth of France, and higher ftill on the other fide, is 
 a fmall octagon caftle and platform, which are likewife of brick. 
 
 Damiata is fituated on the eaft fide of the Nile, four or five miles Damiata. 
 from the mouth of the river; the lake Menzale, as well as I could be 
 inform'd, comes within two or three miles of it: And on the weft fide, 
 between the river and the fea, is a narrow tracl of land that is not a 
 mile broad, it will hardly be thought that Damiata could be faid to be 
 but a mile from the fea in this refpecl, as fome authors of the middle 
 ages feem to defcribe it, who fay alfo that it was a fea-port town, as it 
 may indeed be call'd at prefent, being the harbour for boats and fmall 
 fhips ; tho' it is poflible this miftake may have rifen from the caftle I 
 have mention'd (where there is a cuftom-houfe) being confider'd as the 
 port of Damiata, where there are great ruins of houfes, and might be 
 near a mile from the fea feveral hundred years paft. At the north end of 
 Damiata, there is a very fine large round tower, built of hewn ftone, 
 which might be the work of the Mamalukes, after they recover d Da- 
 miata from the Chriftians. The town is large, but moft of it ill built, 
 being chiefly inhabited by fifhermen and janizaries. I faw fome water a- 
 bout two miles eaft of the town, with land to the north of it, which, as 
 well as I could be inform'd, is the great lake Menzale, for travellers can 
 take no journies into this country to make obfervations ; for, befides the 
 rogues that are without, the people of Damiata themfelves are the very 
 worft people in all Turkey, and a ftranger cannot fo much as go into the 
 ftreets of the town that are not ufually frequented by them, without be- 
 ing infulted. They have a particular averfion to Europeans, which feems 
 to be handed down to them from their forefathers, and to be occafion'd 
 by the holy war ; the chief fcene of which, in Egypt, was about Damiata, 
 which was taken by the Chriftians : And when Lewis the ninth was made 
 prifoner, it was furrender'd to the Egyptians as a part of his ranfom. No 
 perfons muft appear here in the European drefs ; and as a Chriftian is 
 known by his mein, no ftrangers dare go out of the ftreets they are ufed 
 
 to 
 
 3 
 
ao OBSERVATIONS 
 
 to frequent. I myfelf was two or three times infulted, and having the 
 black fafh round my turbant, which janizaries often wear, one of them 
 who pafl"ed by pull'd it from my head, which put a flop to my walks into 
 the town. They have alfo traditions, that perfons employ 'd as European 
 confuls have been maftacred, and others obliged to leave the place. There 
 is a remarkable inftance of their villany and cunning. They have a ftrict 
 law againft taking away cables and anchors, which are left by the fhips 
 that are drove away by ftrefs of weather, and yet there are not wanting 
 fome even of top reputation among them, who employ their own people 
 to rob, and then negotiate with the captains for money to have them 
 reftored out of the hands of thofe, they pretend they dare not difcover : 
 And as no fhip-boats can come to the town, if any perfon of influence 
 has any demand on the captains of {hips, which they cannot come at any 
 other way, it has been known that they have flopped them in the town, 
 by contriving that none of the boats fhould be permitted to carry them 
 off. 
 
 The great trade here is an export of rice and coffee to all parts of 
 Turkey, and of the former a counterband trade to Europe, which has 
 been the caufe of tumults againft the Chriftians : They have alfo an im- 
 port of tobacco from Latichea, and of foap from the coafts of Syria. 
 
 Manfoura. Going from Damiata to Cairo, we pafled by the large city of Man- 
 
 Xanis, foura, on the eaft fide of the Nile: This I conjecture might beTanisf, 
 the Zoan of fcripture. Some travellers mention ruins fix or feven leagues 
 off, called Themafe, which may be the fame that Sicard calls Balbeis, and 
 probably is the antient little Heracleopolis, which was capital of a pro- 
 vince. Near Manfoura, the Chriftian forces of the holy war were twice 
 defeated ; in the firft action the earl of Artois was drowned, and the brave 
 earl of Saliibury died fighting on his knees; all the forces being cut to 
 pieces. The French engaging afterwards with Lewis the ninth at their 
 head, the King was taken prifcner, and Damiata, among other things, 
 was given for his ranfom. The canal that runs north of the town, falls 
 into the lake Menzale, and the fouth end of it feems to be part of the 
 
 Tafnss. Pelufiac branch, as it is, without doubt, the river Tafnes, mention'd by 
 the hiftorians of the holy war; which feems to have its name from 
 Daphne near Pelufium, by which, I fuppofe it formerly ran ; that town 
 being fuppofed to be Tahpanhes of the fcriptures. 
 
 Nothing can be imagined more beautiful than the country on each fide 
 of the river, the villages arc very thick, and have pleafant groves of palm- 
 trees about them, the country exceeding rich, and when it is green in the 
 fpring feafon, and many things appear in bloffom, it has a moft delight- 
 ful afpeft, far exceeding the country which is on the other branch of 
 
 Mahalla. the Nile. We flopped at the port of great Mahalla on the weft, and rid 
 on hired affes about four miles to the city, which is fituated between two 
 canals ; it is a large city, tolerably well built of brick, and is the capital of 
 the province of Garbieh, where a fanjack or bey refides, and a detach- 
 ment from each of the feven military bodies, with its fardar or captain. 
 There are about five hundred Copti Chriftians in the town, who have a 
 poor little church. I was recommended here to a merchant 3 who I think, 
 
 f O T«HT);f voiAtij £ sroAif h ctuii? ^iyx\tj Ta'vii. Strabo 1, xvii. p. 802. 
 
 was 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Was a native of the parts towards Morocco ; and, tho' he had been four- 
 teen times at Mecca, was a very honeft and worthy muffulman ; he gave 
 me a man that fpoke the Lingua Franca, (a corrupt Italian ufed in the 
 eaft) to go along with me wherever I pleafed, and a very good apart- 
 ment in a cane that belong'd to him ; he fent us a very handfome col- 
 lation in the morning, when I firft tailed the butter of Egypt in the 
 month of December, in its greateft perfection, which is very delicate. 
 At night we were ferved with a very plentiful fupper, and he came to us 
 towards the latter end of it, but would not eat ; which is the cuftom in 
 the eaft, if they come to you at all whilft at table, which they rarely do, 
 unlefs they attend on perfons of very fuperior rank. 
 
 The next day I fet out for Baalbait, four or five miles to the north Bnhfe 
 eaft; it is fituated about a furlong to the eaft of the canal Thabanea, part Bur " is - 
 of which I take to be the antient Mendefian branch of the Nile ; but I 
 fuppofe that the Bufiritic canal palling by Baalbait, in the way to the 
 Phatnitic branch, a canal was after cut from it to the Mendefian river, 
 which was further to the north, as may be feen in the map of Egypt ; 
 and this probably is that canal which now makes part of the canal Tha- 
 banea. The village of Baalbait is one of thefe artificial heights, on 
 which probably Bufiris was built; which is thought to have been in this 
 place, being defcribed as in the middle of Delta, and was famous for a 
 large temple dedicated to Ifis there being great remains of a temple here, 
 the moft coftly in its materials of any in Egypt; it is built of granite, and 
 appears by the hieroglyphics and capitals of the pillars, to have been a temple 
 of Ifis ; the ruins of it are on the low ground to the fouth eaft *. As 
 well as I could trace out the foundation, it feem'd to have been about 
 two hundred feet long, and a hundred feet broad, for it is all a confufed 
 heap of ruins. At about one hundred feet diftance is a mound raifed 
 round it, as to keep out the Nile, with an entrance on each fide j the 
 walls of the temple feem to have been ten feet thick, and to be built on 
 the outfide with grey granite, in very fmall fpecks, with fome mixture of 
 red. The infide was built of fine red granite. Meafuring the ftones, I 
 found moft of them were ten feet long, and five feet deep and broad ; 
 the pillars, all broke to pieces, were four feet diameter, of red granite, the 
 capital being the head of Ifis, as number thirteen, in the fourth plate of 
 the Egyptian architecture. They are every day deflroying thefe fine mor- 
 fels of Egyptian antiquity ; and I faw fome of the pillars hewn into mill- 
 ftones. 1 conjectured that there might have been four rows of twelve 
 pillars each in the temple; but what commanded our attention Hill more, 
 was the exquifite fculpture of the hieroglyphics ; and tho' the figures, 
 about four feet high, are in the Egyptian tafte, yet there is fomething fo 
 fine, fo divine, in a manner, in the mein of the deities and priefts, that 
 it far exceeds any thing I ever faw in this way. I obferved feveral pieces 
 of very fine and uncommon marbles, which probably are the remains of 
 ftatues that adorn'd the temple. 
 
 Returning to the boat, and going on towards Cairo, we paffed by Se- 
 
 v 'Es BsVie/v nro?uv . . . . sv Tx'uTtj ^ T £ sroAst * As may be feen in the fixth plate, reprefent- 
 i;l pejj«o( "In©- (ji,, ;'J fU T*i is sriAif «V, t« ed as it is fituated with regard to the village of 
 'Aiyiirh it pie* T ; Ai?.T«. Herod. 1, 2. c. 59. Baalbait. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 G 
 
 menud 
 
22, OBSERVATIONS 
 
 menud, on the weft, and foon after Aboufir, two considerable towns ; 
 the former does not feem to be Sebennytus, capital of the upper pro- 
 vince of this name, which ought to be look'd for on the Sebennytic 
 branch. 
 
 Canal of the The canal between Efhbou and Motrody, might be the canal of the 
 
 Kin s s - Kings to the Red fea ; and if fo, Phacufa muft have been here, at which 
 place this canal began from the Pelufiac branch. This great work was 
 undertaken by Sefoftris King of Egypt, probably carried on by Neco 
 one of his fucceflbrs, and afterwards by Darius, and finiuYd by Ptolemy 
 the fecond of that name, King of Egypt, in fuch manner as that they 
 could let in the water at pleafure ; the work having before been left un- 
 finilh'd, out of an opinion that the Red fea was higher than the land of 
 Egypt, and confequently, if this canal was open'd, might diovvn the coun- 
 try, or at leaft fpoil the waters of the Nile. 
 
 Benalhaffar. Further on the eaft fide, we came to Benalhaffar, where there are great 
 marks of an antient city to the north of the village ,• two bafins, as of 
 fmall lakes, divided by a broad mound, are encompaffed with hi<„h ground, 
 that feems to have been raifed by art, probably out of thofe hollows to 
 build the city on, fo as to be defended againft the overflowing of the 
 Nile; the whole feems to be about two miles in compafs. This might 
 
 Bubiftus. be the antient Bubaftus, thought to be Phibefeth of the fcripture. 
 
 It very well anfwers to the defcription Herodotus " gives of it, and the 
 temple he mentions might be on the high ground between the two ba- 
 fins which, from Herodotus's account, feem formerly to have been open 
 to the river, and the ground of the city being raifed by art, the temple 
 remain'd in the middle, as it was at firft, on a ground not fo high, tho' it 
 might have been raifed above the other ground : The whole is about a 
 mile long, and half a mile broad, and the mounds about a furlong wide ; 
 on each of which they probably had three ftreets. This temple was de- 
 dicated to Diana, who in the Egyptian language was called Bubaftis, 
 and from the worfbip of her this city had its name. For a view of what 
 remains, and the village Benalhaflar, fee plate VI. 
 
 Oniu. Higher on the river was Onias, a town which had its name from a 
 
 Hebrew prieft, who had obtain'd it of a King of Egypt, and built a tem- 
 ple there in oppofition to that of Jerufalem, of which Joiephus gives a 
 very full account ; by which it appears from the words of Ptolemy's grant, 
 that it was before called Leontopolis, in this province of Heliopolis, and 
 that there was a ruin'd temple there dedicated to rural Bubaftis, or 
 Diana. 
 
 u Nejtw? — — of Ti) $tug\i%i EVe^Et^fe ar£«T0f r£ eejtiW, p*STco <Je TKTav A«£«ac o Tligw it, sr^axsj-ofr 
 ef Ti)u 'Eev&^oiV B-nhaosav cps^nVti' tkv Aatfeior o HifOTJfi, Toff t^yon Eajf fwflf, to teAevtoTos', eTac-EV ou'-dJv oiavvU- 
 Jeuteooj Jiwgu|f. Herod. 1. 2. c. 158. A£70v' iSiSa-xfivt u'jro' tivwu oti eFio^'foir tov i&-pa\ 
 
 'ETjom'Shj 3i ij <Fioj£u£ KUlu^sts p ev vVo E£(E«'?&ioff eutiaq tscti -riy.oi!&v.hv&*vM t>j\ "Aij-uitIov, /ae^ewjoIe^v 
 srgo tuje T^oVxoV oi Si vVo tS 'Scuuurivti mctJik, d^x- yxg ccntSeiiuvov uVot'^H" — riif Aiyvvrla tijv °Ef u3 pjfi 
 t*E*s tto'vou, «t' EltAi7ro'vTOf to'v /3i'flt" vfSoov Si uVo Aa^ti'a SojAaoj-Kv* ust^ov Si 0' o*Eu7E^0f nroAEi^ciisf ffWtlihtlTSt 
 
 l5 arfwTH 2tuhi*y.k™ TO i^ni E^ou' ol f*Ev- ctu7cV, &c. Diodorus, 1. 1. p. 29. 
 
 iQi n-ioKt^dino'i 0osc<AeIf ftaxg^ofroc, x*e*so\ bnfairen Ultra dererruit inundationis metus, excelfiore tri- 
 to'v "Eue/Trov, (05-e cVe /3»'aoivto ia-rrhitv axwAuTwf Eif t>;v bus cubitis Rubro mari comperto. Aliqui non 
 ee> SahurlxY, ^ eiVwA«i- arwAjy. Strabo 1. xvii. p. earn afferunt caufam, fed ne immiflb mari, cor- 
 804. rumperentur aqUEE Nili, qua? fola potus prEebec. 
 
 'Airo Si tS n>iAtf!ri«xs ro'lfarOf Stu^ is) ^Eio07ro'i»!- Pliil- Nat, Hijl. 1. 6. C. 29. 
 TOf Hf to'v 'A^Siov jwAn-au ^ tiJv 'E°u9-£e<* Sciha-osav. w M«Ajs-« ij " EsGoiVi ss™A(f E^oj'eSjj, e'* t£ it, 
 T«'yt>;v ^eb-sGwaeto jrgun-ef x«T£nncEv«'£«v Nixwf 0' /oo'v ist BaG*V(of, &c. Herod. 1. ii. p. 137. 
 
 We 
 
Ly. a a. 
 
 l Afaharouah 
 
 'Sifc/niurraA 
 
 - Ciibe c/ Azal 
 
 Scinilchra T,t 1 [a A inn eta no. 
 
 T JSC 
 
 Htfi -Kdd- Bey 
 
 *w -■ - ■ ■ — ^<?, 
 
 n n 
 
 43 
 
 ^4/ Bt'satui' C 
 
 Mohtuuui o 
 Memphis . 
 Moph S.S. . 
 
 s7ft//tarc (rcrmanicunt . 
 
 fflUaria. fte/tca . 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 23 
 
 We paffed the Delta, and failed up the Nile towards Cairo, where it 
 runs in one ftream. To the eaft of the river about a league, was the antient 
 city of Heliopolis, which is On of the fcriptures, and is now call'd 
 Matarea ; it was a city of great antiquity, and famous for the worfhip of 
 the fun \ They worshipped alfo a bull they kept here under the name 
 of Mnevis; as they adored that animal at Memphis, by the name of Apis. 
 The account of the firft foundation of it by A&is y , the fon of Rhoda and 
 the fun, and that he taught them aftronomy, muff, be look'd on as a 
 fabulous account. The fmall remains of this city are to the north north 
 eaft of Cairo, which are reprefented in the fixth plate. A large mound 
 encompaflcs the whole ; the antient fite being about half a mile broad, 
 and a mile long. At the fouth end are two entrances, and at the weft a 
 large one, which might have been the antient way to the temple, for near 
 it are ruins of a fphynx of a bright fpangling yellow marble; it is about 
 two and twenty feet in length, the ear is two feet long, and the head four 
 feet broad ; it has fuch a tutulus or ornament on each fide of the head, 
 channelled as the great fphynx at the pyramids has, with which the 
 fphynx is commonly reprefented ; this is mark'd A. Near it is a piece of 
 the fame ftone, with hieroglyphics cut on it. Sixteen paces to the north, 
 are feveral ftones that feem to be the ruins of another fphynx ; to the 
 eaft are fome others that might be part of two other fphynxes, and a large 
 ftone fix feet long and three feet broad, adorn'd with hieroglyphics on 
 one fide. There is an obeliik remaining, mark'd B. almoft oppofite to 
 the gate, but a little more to the fouth, as there doubtlefs was another to 
 the north. I found by the quadrant that it was fixty-feven feet and a half 
 high, fo that fuppoling it to be one of the four erefled by Sochis, which 
 were feventy feet high, and allowing three feet for the depth of the 
 plinth it was let into, the ground has rifen feven feet and a half. This 
 obeliik is fix feet wide to the north and fouth, and fix feet four inches to 
 the eaft and weft, and it is difcolour'd by the water to the height of near 
 feven feet. It is well preferved, except that on the weft fide it is fcaled 
 away for about fifteen feet high. To the north of this obeliik, and of 
 the place where, the other may be fuppofed to have flood, the ground is 
 very much raifed ; on which the antient city might be built. To the 
 fouth of the weft entrance, the earth has been dug away, and I faw a 
 rufticated wall three feet eight inches thick, built with two rows of ftone 
 in breadth, clamped together with irons. 
 
 Sultan Selim encamped his army in this place when he came to be- 
 iiege Cairo, and there are great mounds raifed all round, of very large 
 unburnt brick, and alfo a rampart to the eaft of the obelifk, as repre- 
 fented in the drawing. There is a tradition that Sultan Selim caufed the 
 fphynx 1 have mention d to be blown up. ' The priefts of Heliopolis were 
 the moft famous of all Egypt for the ftudy of philofophy and aftronomy, 
 
 "'Hts'HAi'e! sro'Air lit) x^^^® 4 ec^ichcy^ jtejpsvij, * 'Oi ,yd% 'flA/K7ro/\rT«i hiyonai Alyvxltm wott 
 
 are i'e^sv e^isf« t£ >iAiV, ji, Toy /3?y TOD Mfviy iv tnjKW tivJ Aoj-i.UiOTaJoi. Herod. 1. 2. c. 3. 
 
 t^eiSo'^evcu, of ar«p os'vlorr vEvo'pijai &eo'j. Strabo 1. xvii. 'Ey S\ -if'HhixTTchei k, ohx; ufoptv ^iyoih.^, e'v off 
 
 P- 805. JijTg/Ssu oi i'Egeif' puhisie ydi> eP>j T«*T»jy hoIoikImv 
 
 y Anxif S' Aij/u7r7oy dndpafi txlict tii\i 'HAjisVoAjy I'sgsmy yzyaAvui <$ae\ to zfftf Aajo'y, cffAoffoCPwy Kvifgwli 
 
 ncpagoidtfir, aVo' rS roa^o'c Siptns &£OffvyceJct»' ^ etVfcyopinwy. Strabo, 1. xvii. p. 806, 
 01 <f 'AfT.u7n.01 f^a^ov nap oo'utS too ette^) Ttjy ds^hvylav 
 3-Eoj£tijW«7a, Diodorus I. 5. p. 328. 
 
 and 
 
 3 
 
24 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 and were the firft that computed time by years, each of three hundred 
 and fixty-five days. They had here a fort of college, confifting of a great 
 number of rooms. Herodotus came to this place to be inftructed in the 
 learning of the Egyptians, and Strabo, when he came to the city, was fhewn 
 the apartments of Plato and Eudoxus; the latter was a great aftrono- 
 mer, and they ftudied here together for thirteen years ; a famous obfer- 
 vatory near Heliopolis had its name from Eudoxus *, oppofite to which, 
 on the other fide of the Nile, where it divides, was the city of Cercefura; 
 but all this learning, the fame author gives an account, was no more at 
 Heliopolis in his time. 
 Matures. The village of Matarea is a little to the fouth of the defcribed enclo- 
 fure. What it is very remarkable for, as well as the country two miles 
 farther fouth, is the excellent water that is always found here on digging 
 about four feet deep ; it is faid to be lighter than the Nile water, and that 
 digging nearer the river, they muft go deeper to find the fprings, where 
 the ground may be higher. It is certain that all over the land of Egypt, 
 if they dig down lower than the furface of the Nile, they find water, 
 tho' the foil being moftly fait, it makes the water brackifh ; but it is pro- 
 bable that there happens to be here a vein of earth that is free from fait, 
 and ferves as a ftrainer, that makes the waters of the Nile purer than 
 they are in its own bed. 
 
 The Chriftians of the country have a tradition that the holy family lay 
 hid here for fome time when they came into Egypt, and add that a tree 
 open'd and became hollow to receive and fhelter them from fome bad 
 people. The Coptis pretend to fhew the very tree which is hollow, and 
 of the fort they call Pharaoh's fig, or the fycamore, and take away pieces 
 of it as relicks; but the Romans fay that the old tree fell down and 
 was carried away by the monks of the convent belonging to Jerufalem. 
 Balfsm gar- They fhew here a field they call the Balfam Garden, where they fay 
 de " p the trees grew of which they made the balm of Gilead ,• and there is fome 
 account that Cleopatra, relying on the favour of Antony, removed thofe 
 trees from the holy land b , contrary to the inclination of Herod ; and 
 that from this place they were tranfplanted to the country beyond 
 Mecca. 
 
 Land of There is great reafon to think that the country about Heliopolis is the 
 Goflien. ] an( j Q f Qofhen, which is called alfo Ramefes in fcripture, efpecially as 
 the children of Ifrael went by Ramefes the firft ftation on their departure 
 from Egypt ; this country being near Memphis, where it is probable 
 Pharaoh refided at that time. 
 
 3 'Ev <3e AtGu'jj KEOXEe-yf^ sroAjf xolcc Taf 'EvJo£« 
 xeipivt] mc07raV <5Hjtvul«i c-toir>} Tiz OT§0 T^j 'HAi'a 
 
 ixHtof tuv xp&vlw Tiy«f xivnV«f. Strabo 1. Xvii. p. 
 
 8o6. 
 
 b 'Isgjfxoijf — — ' if) iJ' oiulS Kj $a<nAH0v, Kf o rS 
 PaAtro^Uif nǤeccWcr' eyj tie to fyuYav Sxpvojkc, r.v!l<ru> 
 
 toiwo'f i, 7Eff*iv&w, zqupurifyv' oil Toy <pAo~ov ETf^tVavfcf 
 wVoAa^£«ivciv ellytiBK tov oVoy. yhlrggv yahaxli TXa^- 
 «7rA>jffio»' ltacAJi$&*f f Hi xoj-^wtyos AbjuCmw* w5Sw 
 
 K, eil&toOHtlctS' Ti'//i©- 80 Efl, Xj (SioVl tvl'U'^a jUo'^OF 
 
 ymiru. Strabo I. xvi. p. 763. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 25 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of Grand Cairo. 
 
 L D Cairo feeras to have fucceeded to the town and fortrefs of Ba j t»d Cairo. 
 \f bylon, which I imagine to have been on Mount Jehufi, at the B ' lb),lon 
 fouth end of old Cairo j from the north end of which the foot of the 
 hill makes out to the river, anfwering the defcription,. that by the foot of 
 the hill which came to the river, they raifed the water up to the height; 
 about which a hundred and fifty men were conftantly employ 'd, who, it 
 is to be fuppofed, work'd at the machines for that purpofe. There is 
 a way to the fouth, which feems to have been open'd through this height ,- 
 and tho' this and fome other high grounds near, look very much like 
 heaps raifed by throwing out the rubbifh of the city, yet it is very pro- 
 bable that from the height they might carry their dung, and throw it 
 down on each fide of this foot of the hill to raife it higher, and make 
 this fortrefs the more inacceffible *. It is more probable alfo that Baby- 
 lon was here, becaufe it is directly oppofite to the pyramids, as defcribed 
 by the antiertt geographers, and very near the Nile ; whereas the caftle of 
 Cairo is a mile from the Nile, and ifc is a plain ground almoft all the way 
 to the river. ' Some captives from Babylon, on the Euphrates, having 
 efcaped, fled to this hill, made excurfions, and plunder'd the country ; 
 but obtaining a pardon, and fubmitting to the government, they had 
 this place given them to inhabit, and call'd it Babylon from their own 
 city. 
 
 On the top of the hill is the uninhabited convent of St. Michael ; 
 to which a prieft goes every funday to officiate. The town of Babylon, 
 probably in time, extended down to the plain; for to the north of that part 
 of the hill which fcts out towards the river, are remains of a very ex- CaMe Kie- 
 tenfive building, which I conjecture might be a fort of caftrum for the"""' 
 Roman legion which was at Babylon J . It is call'd Cafr Kieman caftle 
 Kieman, and is exactly of the fame manner of architecture, as the build- 
 
 * Beyond this height are three or four old 
 Copti convents uninhabited, to which the priefts 
 go to officiate. The hill Jehufi runs fo as to 
 make a fmall femicircle, about the middle of 
 which there is a way up by an eafy afcent, by 
 which alio the water might be railed, that might 
 enter to the very foot of the hill, as it does at 
 prefent by a fmall canal : And there being a paf- 
 iage between the hills to the fouth towards Al- 
 Ba&tin, a larger canal runs there from the fouth 
 of Saroneby, and waters all that country. 
 
 C AiytTCLt Ji, TU'l Cll%fACtAUIU» TKf £X Tiff E«£uAWKJff 
 
 dfta/lat: a'-of^vai Ta'paffiAewc, [j.,; ivta/tinf (piljeiv t«? 
 it Tor? tffOK TaAflWTrwg ^ ^alf• m x^aAa^uiv^r uu&Z 
 Tav z:Jzl.. * £Wg/'a* x»fli(ai tl(a7roAtpe7» tcij 'Aiyvir- 
 
 Tl'fllf >?, TKV eVltyMC yj££=ft )[«7«$&ei'f HV' T£A(^. iff, 
 
 Jo9'eiff);f aiciai du:tj~! xuiomwat tc'tov it K, a'770 t?; 
 wctlejLB& BaCuAwv* zrgsHntyoqtZcxt. Dlod. 1. I .p. 52. 
 A»«*rAEuff«VTI d isi BaGvAiwv ^y'gxju ttupfsv, x-jra- 
 
 Ka7ojjti«tf ezapxtm /3ji.-(Aiwv' \v*l t? isl foala- 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 ■KiSov hog ruv t&iuv rcLypaim twu $f>x%xv7uv rr,v 
 Sio-pim- u$Q%m7ou £ i\$a.$t rqhecvyw ad Ylu^ayJhi it 
 
 t|i zti^oax iv M^uipH, «Vi zsKwiw. Strabo 1. xvii. 
 
 p. 807. 
 
 It appears from Diodorus Siculus, that the 
 founders of Babylon were the captives taken by 
 Sefoftris, or their defcendants ; tho* there was an- 
 other account which he does not feem to credit, 
 that it was built by fome Babylonians, who came 
 with Semiramis into Egypt. Jofephus feems to 
 fay that this city was not built till the time of 
 Cambyfes. 
 
 d See the quotation out of Srrabo in note c. 
 e It is poffibJe the foldiers quarter'd here might 
 be call'd the archers, and that from thence it 
 might have its name ; Kieman, in the Arabic 
 language, fignifying the fign Sagittarius. I found 
 fome called this place Cafrkeihemeh, 
 
 H ino- 
 
a6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ing defcribed at Nicopolis, the walls being built of fmall hewn Hone, and 
 at the diftance of every four foot, are three layers of brick ; the plan of 
 it, A, and. an upright of the front, B, are in plate IX. The two large 
 round towers, c, c, are a very -particular fort of building ; of one of thefe 
 I have given a plan, C, as it is in two ftories. This tower is now forty 
 feet high, the other much higher ; but as it is converted into a Greek 
 nunnery, the infide is very much alter'd ; on the third ftory is a room, 
 the cieling of which is fupported by eight Corinthian pillars ; and at pre- 
 fent there is a well down from the middle of the room : All the doors 
 and windows of the whole building are arched at top. This caftle is in- 
 habited by Chriftians, fo that there are feveral churches in it; and as it 
 is in a very ruinous condition, it has been often tire refuge for fugitives 
 in the time of public infurreflions. The building in many parts, is in- 
 tirely deftroy'd, and they carry away the ftones to build. 
 
 The city of Grand Cairo has been much magnified as to its extent, and 
 the number of its inhabitants ; it confifts now of three towns or cities a 
 mile apart, that is old Cairo, Cairo properly fo call'd, and the port call'd 
 
 Fofthatli. Bulac. The antient city which feems to have fucceeded to Babylon, and 
 was built near it, was call'd Mefr, the old name of Egypt ; it had alfo 
 the name of Fofthath 1 , becaufe Amrou-Ben-As pitch'd his tent there 
 
 Cairo Caher. w hen he befieged Babylon. From this, that part which was afterwards 
 built on had its name, which it might after communicate to the whole 
 town. The prefent great city of Cairo, which was called by the Arabs 
 Caher e , according to their hiftorians, was built by a general of the firft 
 Calif of the Fathmites, in the year nine hundred and feventy-three of 
 
 Kebafeh. Chrift. It is faid Saladin built walls round both thefe cities. 
 
 Old Cairo. A third city was built between the old and new cities call'd Kebaleh, 
 which has been fince deftroy'd, and the ruins of it are now feen f. 
 Gize has been mention'd as a city adjoyning, and alfo Roida in the ifland 
 I fhall fpeak of. 
 
 Granaries. Old Cairo is reduced to a very fmall compafs, and is not above two 
 miles round ; it is the port for the boats that come from upper Egypt : 
 Some of the Beys have a fort of country houfes here, to which they retire 
 at the time of the high Nile. 
 
 In old Cairo are the granaries commonly call'd Jofeph's ; a plan 
 of which may be feen in the ninth plate, D. They are only fquare 
 courts encompaffed with walls about fifteen feet high, ftrengthen'd 
 with femicircular buttreffes ; they feem originally to have been built 
 of ftone, but now a great part of them is of brick. Thefe courts are 
 fill'd with corn, leaving only room to enter at the door; the grain is 
 cover'd over with matting, and there is a flight fence made round 
 the top of the walls of canes, which I imagined were defign'd in order 
 to difcover if any people have got over the walls : The locks of the doors 
 alfo are cover'd over with clay, and fealed. As the birds fometimes get 
 to the corn, fo the keepers of the granaries are allow'd a certain quan- 
 
 f Fofthath, in the old Arabic, fignifies a tent, and the Turkith word at prefent is Sehir, tho* 
 s Among the feveral interpretations of this poflibly it may have its name from Caherah, which 
 word Caher, the moil natural feems to be that lignifies victorious. 
 
 they fignified by it the city ; Caer, or fomething f See Bibliotheque Oriental D'Herbelot, under 
 like it, in many old languages, fignifying a city ; Mefr and Caherah. 
 
 tity 
 
ON EGYPT. 27 
 
 tity on that account. They fey there were feven of thefe granaries, and 
 there are remains of fome of them turn'd to other ufes, this being the 
 only one now ulcd for corn, which is what is brought down from upper 
 Egypt for the ufe of the foldiers, and diftributed out to them as part of 
 their pay, and they ufually fell it : Six yards of this granary were full of 
 wheat, and one of barley for the horfe. 
 
 At the north end of old Cairo is the building for raifing the water of Aqueduft. 
 the Nile to the aqueduft ; it is a very magnificent plain fabric, faid to be 
 erefted by Campion, the immediate predeceflor of the laft of the Mama- 
 luke Kings; it is a hexagon building, each fide being between eighty and 
 ninety feet long, and about as many high ; the afcent to it on the outfide is 
 very eafy for the oxen to go up, that turn the Perfian wheels to raile the 
 water to the top of it. The water comes into the refervoir below by a 
 channel from the Nile ; but when the Nile is low, it comes into a lower 
 refervoir, from which it is drawn into the other by another wheel : From 
 this it is convey'd up about a hundred feet by five oxen, to as many 
 wheels above, as in plate X. a, are the wells by which the water is drawn 
 up; b, are the leffer bafins by which it runs into the great bafin ; c, the 
 refervoir at top, from whence it goes by the canal, d, to the aqueduft, 
 which is reprefented with the upright of this building. Five oxen turn 
 as many wheels on the top of the building, by which the water is drawn 
 up in the vafes fix'd to the cords that turn on the wheels, and from the 
 top of them emptying themfelves into' the bafins under ; from thence the 
 water runs into the bafins, b, by canals made for that purpofe. 
 
 The aqueduft itfelf is very grand, in the ruftic ftyle, the arches and 
 peers are of different dimenfions ; but the former are moftly from ten to 
 fifteen feet wide, and the peers about ten feet : In fome parts, a plain 
 wall is built for feveral feet without arches ; I number'd two hundred and 
 eighty-nine arches, tho' others mention a greater number, fome near three Caml of 
 hundred and twenty. The arches are low towards the caftle hill, where Ta ' m ' 
 the ground is higher, and the water running into a refervoir is raifed up 
 to the caftle by ieveral wheels one over another. 
 
 Oppofite to this refervoir of water at the Nile, is the canal that con- 
 veys the water to Cairo, and feems to be that which was made by Trajan : 
 Near the mouth of it they perform the ceremony of cutting or opening the 
 canal, by breaking down a mound they make acrofs it every year. This 
 is done with great rejoycing, when the Nile is at a certain height ; and as 
 there is a tradition that they formerly facrificed a virgin every year when 
 they perform'd this ceremony, fo I was fhewn a fort of pillar of earth, with Copti 
 grafs growing on it, which when the canal is open'd, if I miftake not, is churchc! - 
 adorn'd with flowers ; and when the Nile is let in, is wafh'd away in lieu 
 of the damfel they ufed to ofFer to the river God. 
 
 There are about twelve churches belonging to the Coptis in old Cairo, 
 moftly in one quarter of the town, inhabited by Chriftians : They have 
 churches alfo in Cairo, one of which belongs to the Patriarch ; but his 
 proper church feems to be St. Macarius's in old Cairo, where he is elefted 
 and enthroned ; this is in the fireet of the Patriarch. In the church of 
 St. Barbara, they fay they have her head, and fome other relicks. Moft 
 of the churches have old ones under them ; and they fay the Holy Family 
 was in the lower church dedicated to St. Sergius, where there are fome 
 
 paintings 
 
 3 
 
2 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 paintings relating to that fubjeft.. Thefe churches generally cohfift of a 
 nave, and two ifles, with galleries over the iiles fupported by pillars, and 
 adorn'd with columns in the front that fupport the roof. The part of 
 the altar is feparated by a partition that is often finely adorn'd with carv- 
 ing, and inlaid with ivory and tortoife fhell. In the church of St. George 
 of the Greeks, they fay they have the arm of that faint; they fhewed me 
 a pillar, to which an iron collar, with a chain is fix'd ; and they fay mad 
 people confined in it for three days, certainly recover. They inform'd 
 me that the Turks often try this experiment, and having a great venera- 
 tion for the faint, frequently come and fay their prayers here on Iridays. 
 Synagogue. There is alfo a fynagogue, faid to have been built about fixteen hun- 
 dred years ago, in the manner it now is, which is much like the churches. 
 They fay the prophet Jeremiah was on the very fpot where they ufually 
 read the law • but that now no one enters into that part, out of reverence. 
 I law there two antient manulcripts of the law ; and they pretend to have 
 a manufcript of the Bible, writ by Ezra, who they fay, out of refpect 
 omitting to write the name of God, found it Writ throughout the next 
 day after it was finifh'd : They hold it fo facred, that it is not permitted 
 that any one fhould touch it; and they fay the book is in a niche about ten 
 feet high, before which a curtain is drawn, and lamps are kept always 
 burning before it. 
 
 Patriarch's Towards the back part of the town is the ftreet of the Patriarch. 
 
 ll^ca ■ Here are two churches, one of which is St. Macarius's, where the Patriarch 
 is elefted, and a houfe with a chapel belonging to the Patriarch, which 
 probably is on the lite of the antient Patriarchal palace ; for, when the 
 Patriarchs firft removed from Alexandria, it is probable they took up their 
 refidence in old Cairo, and had their church and houle tiiere; but as 
 that place became lefs frequented, and not fo fafe, they might remove 
 into Cairo. The Francifcans belonging to the convent of Jerufalem, have 
 a very neat fmall convent or hofpitium in old Cairo, where two or three 
 of them generally live. 
 
 Mofijues. The mofque Amrah, to the north eaft of old Cairo, is faid to have 
 been a church; there are in it near four hundred pillars, which with their 
 capitals, feem to have been collected from feveral antient buildings ; the 
 middle part is open, and I have given a plan of it in the eleventh plate. 
 It is probable this was made a mofque by Amrou the Calif, who built 
 Fofthath. At the north end of old Cairo is a mofque of very folid ruftic 
 work, tho' in a ruinous condition ; it is call'd the mofque of Omar, and 
 js faid to be the firft mofque built in this place, tho' probably it was re- 
 built by the Mamalukes, being much like their manner of buildings. 
 As this is mention'd as the firft mofque that was built here, it was doubt- 
 lefs founded by Omar, the fecond Calif of the race of .Mahomet, who firft 
 conquer'd Egypt. 
 
 iflcRoida. From old Cairo, I went over to the pleafant ifle of Roida, or Raoudah, 
 which is oppofite to it, the channel of the Nile between being dry when 
 the water is low ; it is a very delightful fpot, the weft fide is planted 
 with large fycamore trees, commonly call'd Pharaoh's fig. Towards the 
 north end is the fmall village of Roida, the ifle being near a mile long. 
 At the fouth end is the Mikias, or houfe in which is the famous pillar 
 for meafuring the Nile ; it is a column in a deep bafin, the bottom of 
 
 which 
 
O N E G Y P T. 29 
 
 which is on a level with the bed of the Nile, the water entering on one 
 fide, and palling out on the other. The pillar is divided into meafures, 
 by which they fee the rife of the Nile ; it has a fine old Corinthian capi- 
 tal at top, which has commonly been omitted in the draughts, and on that 
 refts a beam which goes acrofs to the gallery. Concerning this manner 
 of meafuring the rife of the Nile, I fhall have occafion to fay more in 
 another place *. From the court that leads to this houfe, is a defcent to 
 the Nile by fteps, on which the common people will have it, that Mofes 
 was found, after he had been expofed on the banks of the river. 
 
 There are great remains of buildings at this end of the ifland, efpe- 
 cially about the meafuring place; and to the weft there are remains of 
 walls ten feet thick, built of brick, with turrets that are a quarter of 
 a circle, but do not feem to have been high, and I fuppofe that they were 
 rather defign'd to prevent the ifle being encroach'd on by the river, than 
 for any defence. They fay fome Sultan built a palace here, and refided much 
 on this ifland for the fake of the air, and the plcafantnefs of the fituation. 
 
 Half a mile north of old Cairo, is a place call'd Caffaraline, where Grifialiae, 
 there are feveral gardens of oranges, lemons, citrons, and caflia; but 
 what it is moft remarkable for, is a convent of between thirty and forty 
 Dervifhes. As thefe people affefl: a fort of extraordinary fan&ity, fo they Convent of 
 live in a manner in their mofque, which is a large fquare room cover'd Dclvinics ' 
 with a very fine dome. In this we were prefented to the head of them, 
 who was reading, and entertain'd us very civilly in the Turkifh manner. 
 In it I faw fome antient vafes, one being of white oriental alabafter. 
 The fuperior had two pikes near him with Arabic fentences on them, and 
 there was alfo one on each fide of the niche, which direfts them which 
 way they are to turn at prayer. In this room, and likewife at the en- 
 trance of the convent, are feveral curious things hung up, that have been 
 collected by the Dervifhes in their travels abroad, moft of them having 
 fomething of the wonderful in them ; as particularly I faw a very large 
 boot, which they fay belong'd to fome giant, and a bowl of a pipe in 
 proportion to it. Thefe Dervifhes are not thofe that dance, of which 
 fort there are none in Egypt. 
 
 A mile further north on the river is Bulac, about a mile from new Cairo, Bubc. 
 it is near two miles in compafs, and is the port for all boats that come up 
 the river from the parts of Delta: Here they have a cuftom-houfe, many 
 warehoufes and canes for travellers ; it is remarkable for nothing but a 
 fine bagnio. 
 
 The city of Cairo is fituated about a mile from the river, and extends New Cairo, 
 eaftward near two miles to the mountain ; it is about feven miles round, 
 for I was fomething more than two hours and three quarters going round 
 the city on a beaft of Cairo, computing that I went two miles and a half 
 an hour e. 
 
 The city is faid to have been larger than it is at prefent, when it was 
 the centre of trade from the Eaft Indies ; it was wall'd round, and part its wall* 
 
 * I have given a draught of it in the twelfth Agelphi's houfe, to the entrance at the fouth weft 
 
 plate, with fome amendments of thofe that have corner of lake Efbikien, twenty-five minutes, 
 
 commonly been publihVd. From thence to the entrance from old Cairo, 
 
 e From the great mofque which is in the way twenty-three minutes, and then round the caftle 
 
 going from the European quarter to Ali Caia to the place I began at, two hours. 
 
 Vol. I. I of 
 
3 o OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of the walls of freeftone remain to the north eaft of the caftle, where 
 they make an angle, turning from the north to the weft : I faw alfo 
 fomc remains of them to the fouth of the caftle, going towards the aque- 
 duct, which I fuppofe were the walls of Tailoun ; they are built with 
 femicircular towers, and feem to have been made in imitation of the outer 
 
 Gates. walls of Alexandria. There are likewife three or four very grand gates 
 that were built by the Mamalukes; the workmanfhip of them is very 
 good, and amidft all the fimplicity of the architecture, every one muft be 
 ftruck with the furprizing magnificence of them. One of them to the 
 fouth is call'd Babel Zuile (the gate of Zuile) from a fuburbs of that 
 name it leads to. Under the arch of the gate is a piece of rope faften'd 
 to a hook, where they fay Toman Bey, the laft Mamaluke Sultan, was 
 hang'd by order of Sultan Selim, after he had been tortured to reveal 
 treafures, and carried through all the ftreets on a lean camel, drefTed in 
 ragged clothes, and his hands bound. Another gate is Babel Naffer; and 
 they lay that Sultan Selim made his publick entrance through this gate, 
 having taken a (ketch of it, as may be feen in the thirteenth plate at A. 
 It probably had its name from fome of the Califs or Sultans of Egypt, 
 who had the name of Naffer. A little to the fouth of it is a gate ftill 
 more magnificent, which is called Babel Futuh, that is, the gate of victo- 
 ry ; it is of hewn ftone, very high, and has a fquare tower on each fide, 
 the water tables of which are richly adorn'd with fculptures. 
 
 Canal. The canal that comes out of the Nile at old Cairo, goes all through the 
 
 city, tho' it is feen only from the back of the houfes that are built on it; 
 for tho' there are feveral bridges over it, yet there are houfes built on each 
 fide of them, fo as to intercept the view of the canal, but when it is dry, it 
 is as a ftreet, along which the common people frequently go ; however, 
 towards the time it begins to be dry, it is but a bad neighbour, as a ftench 
 arifes from it that is very difagreeable to thofe that live on it, and muft 
 be unwholefome. 
 
 Lakes. If one imagines that there are feveral fquares or places about the city, 
 
 from a quarter to three quarters of a mile round, contrived fo as to 
 receive and hold the water of the Nile, that is convey 'd to them by the 
 canals when the river rifes, it may give fome idea of the feveral lakes that 
 are about the city during the greater part of the year ; and nothing can 
 be imagined more beautiful, than to fee thofe places fill'd with water, 
 round which the beft houfes in the city are built; and when the Nile is 
 high in the fummer, it muft be an entertaining profpeft, to fee them co- 
 ver'd with the fine boats and barges of all the great people, who come 
 out in the evening to divert themfelves with their ladies : As I have been 
 inform'd, concerts of mufic are never wanting, and fometimes fireworks 
 add to the amufement ; all the houfes round being in a manner illumi- 
 nated, and the windows full of fpeflators to behold this glorious fight. 
 The fcene is much alter'd when the waters are gone off, and nothing but 
 mud appears; but is foon fucceeded by a more agreeable view of green 
 corn, and afterwards of harveft, in the middle of a great city, on thole 
 very fpots where the boats were failing a few months before. 
 
 Streets. The ftreets of Cairo, as of all the Turkifh cities, are very narrow ; the 
 
 wideft goes the length of the city from the gate Naffer to the gate Zuile, 
 but would be look'd on as a lane in Europe. The other ftreets are fo 
 
 narrow, 
 
O N E G Y P T. 3 i 
 
 narrow, that they frequently make a roof from one houfe to the other 
 over the ftreet, and put a flight covering on it to defend them from the 
 fun. The city of Cairo is exceedingly well regulated for its fecurity, more 
 efpecially by night ; for moft of the ftreets, or at leaft each end of every 
 diftrift or ward, has a gate and porter to it, who fhuts up the gate as 
 foon as it is dark, and to every one of thefe wards is a guard of two or 
 three or more janizaries, fo that no idle people can go about the ftreets 
 at night. Some little ftreets confift only of mops, without any houfes, 
 and fo they leave their fhops lock'd up, and go to their houfes at night. 
 There are alfo feveral places for fhops like our exchanges, call'd Bezeftans, 
 which are fhut up at night, and fhops of the fame trade are generally to- 
 gether in thefe as well as in the ftreets. 
 
 Turkifh houfes, efpecially in Cairo, have very little beauty in them ; Houfa. 
 they are generally built round a court, where they make the beft appear- 
 ance, nothing but ufe being confider'd as to the outfide of their houfes, 
 what they have of ornament being in their faloons within; fo that their • 
 houfes, built below of ftone, and above a fort of cage work, fometimes 
 fill'd up with unburnt brick, and few or no windows towards the ftreet, 
 are a very difagreeable fight to one who has feen only European cities, that 
 have fomething of outward regularity, as well as conveniency and beauty 
 within. 
 
 There are feveral magnificent mofques in and about Cairo ; but that Mofques. 
 which exceeds them all, both as to the folidity of its building, and a cer- 
 tain grandeur and magnificence that ftrikes in a very furprizing manner, 
 is the mofque of Sultan Haffan, built at the foot of the caftle hill ; it is 
 very high, of an oblong fquare figure, crown'd with a cornifh all round 
 that projects a great way, and is adorn'd with a particular fort of grotefque 
 carvings after the Turkifh manner; the entrance to it is very finely inlaid 
 with feveral forts of marbles, and carved in like manner at top; the 
 afcent was by feveral fteps, which are broken down, and the door wall'd 
 up, becaufe in times of public infurrections, the rebels have often taken 
 fhelter there. The place is fo ftrong, that now there is always a garri- 
 fon of janizaries within the diftrict of it, in apartments adjoining to the 
 mofque. To the north eaft of the town is a very fine mofque call'd Kubbe- 
 el-Azab, or the cupola of the Azabs, belonging to the body of theAzabs; it 
 is a very fine room about fixty feet fquare, with a beautiful dome over it, 
 raifed on a bafe of fixteen fides, in each of which is a window,- the room is 
 wainfcotted round eight feet high in pannels, with all the moft valuable 
 marbles, among which are feveral fine flabs of red and green porphyry ; the 
 borders round the pannels are carved and gilt, a fort of freeze ranges round, 
 in which are fentences cut in large gilt characters, call'd the Couphe cha- 
 racter, in which they here antiently writ the Arabic language. The walls 
 above this are adorn'd with Arabic infcriptions in letters of gold, and the 
 whole cupola is painted and gilt in the fineft manner, and all over the 
 mofque are hung a great number of glafs lamps and oftridges eggs ; adjoin- 
 ing to it are feveral apartments built for the priefts, and alfo fome grand ones 
 for the great people, who fometimes come and refide here. It is faid this 
 magnificent room was built by a grand vizier, who defired the Sultan to 
 give him leave to prepare a place fit to offer him a fhirbet in, on his re- 
 turn from Mecca. 
 
 A part 
 
 x 
 
32 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Tailoun. A part of the town to the fouth is called Tailoun, faid to have been built 
 before this city was founded, by Tholoun who was mafter of Egypt, in fuch 
 a manner as to be almoft independant of the Califs; and 'tis faid left old 
 Cairo, and built a palace and mofque here. This at firft was probably 
 called Cateia, becaufe that perfon is faid to have built a palace of that 
 name. What remains of the antient palace goes by the name of Kalat- 
 el-Kebfh, and they fay Sultan Sclim lodged here. There are remains of 
 the caftle walls and high ground within them, which may have been raifed 
 by throwing out the dung of the city, and afterwards building on the 
 high ground, tho' to the weft I faw there was a natural rock. In this 
 wall is a fort of fquare turret they call the feat of Pharaoh; near it, un- 
 der an arch, is an antient Sarcophagus of black marble, which receives 
 the water of a conduit ; it is call'd the fountain of treafure, and by fome 
 writers the fountain of lovers, concerning which the people tell fome 
 ftories. It is richly adorn'd both infide and out with hieroglyphics, in 
 the form of the draught I have given of it in the thirteenth plate. One 
 man feems to have a crocodile's head, and on a fort of altar mark'd out in 
 fquares, feem'd to be cut two horfes heads ; for the reft, I could not be 
 permitted to make any further obfervations, or to take the hieroglyphics 
 exaftly that are cut in thofe columns. At each end is a man, and fix co- 
 lumns of hieroglyphics on each fide. There are, befides the turret call'd 
 Pharaoh's feat, others in a femicircular form, fo that probably this was the 
 enclofure of the old palace. In this quarter is a large mofque, faid to 
 refemble that of Mecca, and an antient building, which feems to have 
 been the quarter of the body of foldiers called Cherkes, to whom it ftill 
 belongs, and goes by their name. 
 
 Caft]c . To the eaft of Tailoun is the caftle of Cairo, fituated on a rocky hill, 
 
 which feems to be feparated by art from the hill or mountain Jebel Duife, 
 which is the name of the eaft end of Jebel Mocattham. It is faid this 
 caftle was built by Saladin. There are two entrances to it on the north 
 fide ; one to the weft is called the gate of the Azabs, the other to the eaft, 
 the gate of the janizaries. The defcent by the former is narrow, cut 
 through the rock, and paffing by two round towers near the gate, and 
 then by a fine large round tower; the way is by a high wall, on which at 
 a great height, is a relief of a very large fpread eagle, and fo the entrance 
 is oppofite to the building that is called Jofeph's hall. The afcent by the 
 gate of the janizaries is more fpacious and grand ; on each fide of the 
 inner gate is a tower of many fides, and further on at another entrance, 
 is a large round tower on each fide, oppofite to the great mofque. The 
 caftle is wall'd all round, but is fo commanded by the hill to the eaft, that 
 it can be a place of no ftrength, fince the invention of canon. At 
 the weft of the caftle, are remains of very grand apartments ; fome of 
 them cover'd with domes, and adorn'd with mofaic pictures of trees and 
 houfes, that doubtlefs belong'd to the antient Sultans, and it is faid, have 
 fince been inhabited by the Pafhas. This part of the caftle is now only 
 ufed for weaving, embroidering, and preparing the hangings and cover- 
 ings they fend every year to Mecca. I faw them about this work ,- and, 
 tho' they look on it as a profanation for a Chriftian fo much as to touch 
 thofe rich damafks that are to cover what they call the houfe of God, yet 
 notwithftanding I ventured to approach them. 
 
 Over 
 
ON EGYPT. 5 
 
 Over this is a higher ground to the eaft, ' near the grand faloon, com- J°<" e P' 
 monly call'd Jofeph's hall, from which there is a moft delightfid pro- 
 fpeft of Cairo, the pyramids, and all the country round. It was probably 
 a terrace to that magnificent room, which is now all open, except to the 
 fouth fide, and is adorn'd with very large and beautiful pillars of red 
 granite ; the walls built on them on the outfide have fuch windows as are 
 reprefented in the draught of the fourteenth plate, as well as I could 
 take it under the reftraint that ftrangers are in here. Walls alfo are built 
 with fuch windows on many of the pillars within, efpecially on the fe- 
 cond and third from the entrance, with arches turn'd from one pillar to 
 another *. Some of the capitals of the pillars are good Corinthian, others 
 very plain, and fome only mark'd out in lines like leaves ; many of them 
 are only plain ftones fhaped a little like a capital, on fome of which 
 there arc lines like a figure of eight, and moft of them have fome little 
 relief. They have only a rough bafe, fomething like the antient Egyp- 
 tian manner, and all the pillars have an Arabic infcription of one line cut 
 on them. On the fide that is built up, where the wall fets in, and arches 
 are turn'd over, there feem to have been three doors, the middle one be- 
 ing adorn'd at the top with that grotefque fort of work, which is common 
 in the Eaftern buildings ; and over the pillars and arches, is a fort of 
 wooden freeze, fill'd with Arabic inferiptions. The two couplets of pil- 
 lars in the middle feem to have been defign'd to fupport a dome; and 
 probably they intended to have two others for that purpofe, mark'd in the 
 plan, for it is to be queftion'd if this room was ever finifh'd, and pro- 
 bably the firft row of pillars in the front was defign'd for a portico. 
 The pillars doubtlefs were brought from fome antient buildings, moft pro- 
 bably from Alexandria; pillars of one ftonc not feeming to have been in 
 ufe in Egypt before the Greeks came among them, who fliew'd all their 
 art and magnificence in that city. To the weft part of the caftle alfo is 
 the jail, which the common people will have to be the prifon in which 
 Jofeph was confined. 
 
 About the middle of the caftle is a large court, on the fouth fide of Divan 
 which are the Pallia's apartments, and the great divan, over the kara- 
 meidan, or black place to the fouth. The plain under the caftle to the 
 north weft is call'd Remle, or the fandy place. In this divan I faw the 
 fhields of leather, above half an inch thick, with the fpears remaining in 
 them, with which Sultan Amurath pierced them. Here alfo I faw the 
 divan of Beys affembled, under the Kaia, or prime minifter of the Pafha, 
 as they conftantly meet three times a week, the Paftia, whenever he 
 pleafes, fitting in a room behind that has a communication by fome lattife- 
 windows. A ftranger may go in with the conful's dragoman or interpreter, 
 and being conducted afterwards to the Pafha's coffee room, is civilly en- 
 tcrtain'd by his people with fweetmeats and coffee. The mint alfo is near, Mint, 
 where they coin their gold, and fome fmall pieces call'd Medines, which 
 are of the value of three larthings, and are of iron waflrd over with fil- 
 ver, the hafe money of Conftantinople not palling in Egypt. I faw a 
 piece of a fmall obelifk of black marble, with hieroglyphics on it made 
 
 * This hall ought not to be reptefented as covei'd. 
 
 Vol. I. K ufc 
 
34 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ufe of as the fill of a window ; it is about eight feet long, and eighteen 
 inches fquare. 
 
 jofcphsweil. The well in the caftle has often been defcribed and fpoken of as a very 
 wonderful thing ; it is call'd Jofeph's well, not from the Patriarch Jofeph, 
 but, as fome authors obferve, from a grand vizier of that name, who had 
 the care of this work under Sultan Mahomet, fon of Calaun, who did 
 not live feven hundred years ago; the fe&ion and plans of it are in the 
 fifteenth plate h . It has been look'd on as a very extraordinary thing to 
 cut fuch a well down through the rock ; but the ftone is foft, and it 
 would have been much more difficult to have dug it down, had the foil 
 been of earth or fand, and to have built a wall round within. Moreover, 
 the ftone they dug up, as it would ferve for building, might be of great 
 ufe in making improvements in the caftle. The pafiage down is round 
 the well, the rock being left about two feet thick between the pafiage 
 and the well ; the defcent for the firft five flights is on the fouth fide of 
 the well, and fo far the well and the pafiages are built ; afterwards, it is 
 round the well as defcribed ; the pafiage being about fix feet and a half 
 fquare ; holes are cut archwife in the partition, about three feet and a 
 half wide, and fomething higher, in order to give fome light to the 
 pafiage down. The well is of an oblong fquare form, and the defcent 
 to the bottom of the firft well goes three times round in twelve flights, 
 being one hundred and fifty feet deep; the defcent is very eafy, each ftep 
 being about fix inches high, and five feet broad, but the place is fo dirty, 
 that in moft parts the fteps are hardly perceivable. On the long fide I 
 thought I could number fifteen fteps, and on the other fide twelve. On 
 the left hand of the pafiage, at the bottom of this well, is an entrance 
 K, now flopped up, the people fay it leads to the pyramids ; and ano- 
 ther mention'd to the right, they fay went to the Red fea. From the 
 bottom of this well, by the hole, M, is an entrance to another well not 
 fo big; the defcent is very difficult, by reafon of the wet and dirt, and 
 alfo dangerous, as the flairs are narrow, and no partition between them 
 and the well ; it is one hundred and twenty feet deep. The bottom of 
 this well being probably on a level with the bed of the Nile, or rather 
 lower, the water never fails, but pafllng through the fait foil, it is a little 
 brackifh, and ferves only for common ufes ; and is not good to drink. 
 From this place it is raifed to the bottom of the upper well, by a wheel 
 turn'd there by oxen, which raifes feventy-two vafes that hold near three 
 quarts each; they are tied to ropes that hang on the wheel, and there be- 
 ing convey 'd into another bafin, it is by the fame means raifed to the top 
 by another fet of oxen, and eighty-five vafes. There is one thing very 
 
 h A. is the plan of the top of the well, and of wife, as in fection H. it is from thence gradually 
 
 the {fairs round it, over which is a view of it cut in fix feet further than above. At O. in all 
 
 fromLe Bruyn. AO A. are the ftairs about the the draughts, are the oxen and wheels to raife 
 
 folid part B. At C. begins the firft flight on the the water. The fecf ion G. is of the upper well 
 
 fide of the well. There are alfo ftairs at D. down the middle. H. is a feclion within the 
 
 C C C D. after this flight, are the landing places partition, between the ftairs and the well, 
 
 of the feveral flights round the well; the upper The next plan is of the bottom of the firft 
 
 part of the well being built as reprefented in the well. I. the place where the water is drawn up. 
 
 feftions, to make the flights D C. and C C. L. the bafin it runs into, and from which it 
 
 longer. Within F. at O A. and the part oppo- is drawn up to the top. M. the defcent down 
 
 fite E. the rock is cut in fix feet further than it into the lower well. The meafures of the depth 
 
 is above i for the rock being mark'd out arch- of the well I had from others. 
 
 particular 
 
ON EGYPT. 35 
 
 particular in this well, that between twenty and thirty feet from the top, 
 on two oppofite fides, it is cut in, as I conjectured, fix or feven feet 
 archwife, and fo continues all the way down to the bottom, which was 
 probably done to make the flights of flairs longer, and confequently 
 a more eafy defcent. Some have remark'd that feveral fuch wells have 
 been found at old Cairo, only with this difference, that they are fingle, 
 but very deep, and an oblong fquare of about ten feet by twelve, and 
 that fome are even in ufe to this day. Near this well is the laft wheel 
 that raifes up the water, which is convey'd by the aqueduct for better 
 ufes. This caftle, which is about a mile in circumference, is like a lit- 
 tle town, but the moll part of it is in a very ruinous condition. 
 
 To the fouth of the caftle, extending away to the fouth eaft, is a fort Caraffa. 
 of antient fuburbs, call'd Caraffa. At the entrance to this place are fome 
 magnificent tombs cover'd with domes, faid to be the monuments of 
 fome Kings of Egypt; the people fay they are the Califs, the relations of 
 Mahomet, who conquer'd this country ; and fo great a veneration they 
 have for them, that they oblige Chriftians and Jews to defcend from their 
 affes, out of refpect, when they pafs this way. Caraffa feems to have 
 been the antient univerfity for the united ftudies of their law and divinity; 
 it is now in a manner a plain of ruins to the fouth of mount Duife ; 
 being the remains of many colleges and convents of Dervifhes, where it 
 is faid there were fo great a number, that a ftranger could pafs a year 
 at free coft, only fpending one day in each of them. On the right, I 
 faw on a height the great mofque of El-Imam Schafei, one of the four 
 great doctors of the law, who is had in great veneration amongft them, 
 and whofe fepulchre is there ; it is call'd La-Salehiah, from a title they 
 gave Saladin who built it, together with an hofpital and college; and he 
 obliged all the doctors of Egypt to follow the doctrine of this relation of 
 Mahomet, who was a native of Gaza. I faw to the eaft of the fouth 
 point of the hill Jehufy, where I fuppofe Babylon was, great remains of 
 arches of a very confiderable aqueduct, by which the water was probably 
 convey'd to this and other mofques; and at another time, when I was to 
 the fouth of that hill, by the river, I faw a building like that at the head 
 of the aqueduct, that is built to the caftle, which I fuppofe is the refer- 
 voir to which the water was raifed from the canal that goes to Al-Bafetin ; 
 but there was no venturing to go further to take a nearer view of it, this 
 being reckon'd the moft dangerous part about Cairo. Three or four miles 
 from the town is Bafetin, fo call'd from the gardens that are there. A- lMetin. 
 bout two miles on this fide of it, is the Jews burial place, to which j ews burial 
 place every body is efcorted by a guard of Arabs, who are paid money P lace - 
 for their protection, and do not fail to ufe you ill. I had the curiofity to 
 go out and fee the manner in which the Jews bury their dead in thefe 
 parts : They dig a grave about fix feet deep ; on the weft fide of the 
 bottom of the grave, they dig in a hole big enough to receive the body, 
 then they depofite it, laying broad ftones againft the hole, and fill up the 
 grave ; it being contrary to their law, as I was inform'd, to lay earth 
 on the body. South of the burial place are three fmall arched houfes, 
 where they wafh and prepare the bodies for burial, that die out of their 
 houfes; for when that happens, they never carry the corpfe into the 
 houfe. 
 
 I went 
 
3 6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Mount I went up to the top of Jebel Duife, which is to the north, from which, 
 as I obferved, it is poflible the cattle hill might be feparated by art. At 
 the eaft end there are feveral grottos all up the fide of the hill in many 
 ftories, feveral of which are inaccefiible, but there is a way to fome by a 
 narrow terrace ; they are moftly rooms eight or ten feet fquare, and high. 
 On the top of the hill, towards the weft brow of it, are two rooms cut 
 near the furface of the rock, with holes on the top to let in light; over 
 it is a raifed place where the great men often go and enjoy one of the 
 fineft profpcdts in Egypt, commanding a view of Cairo, and of all the 
 country, efpecially into Delta, as far as the eye can carry. To the eaft, 
 over the fouth clift, is the mofque in which the Sheik Duife is buried, 
 who has given name both to the hill and mofque. The mofque within is 
 painted all over with flowers, on a red ground ; near it are buried feve- 
 ral of his children, and the fons of fome Pafhas. We had free admit- 
 tance every where, and the Sheik fpread a carpet before the mofque, and 
 ferved a collation. Beyond this mofque, on a hill, is a folid building of 
 fione, about three feet wide, built with ten fteps, being at top about three 
 feet fquare, on which the Sheik mounts to pray on any extraordinary oc- 
 cafions, when all the people go out ; as at the beginning of a war, and 
 here in Egypt, when the Nile does not rife as they expect it fhould ; and 
 fuch a praying place they have without all the towns throughout Turkey. 
 On another height of the hill, to the eaft, over the fouth brow, is a 
 ruin'd building like a mofque. I expe£ted to have feen fomething of an 
 obfervatory here, mention'd by the Arabian hiftorians, on this hill ; that 
 particular part being a very advantageous fituation. This hill being 
 reckon'd a very dangerous place, the janizary difluaded me from going, 
 but I went without him, notwithftanding that fome people call'd after 
 me that were on the hill, to prevent my going, being very defirous to 
 take a view of this building. We defcendcd the hill to the north, by a 
 very eafy way, practicable by camels; the afc'ent to the fouth being a 
 winding foot way up the fide of the hill, which is there almoft perpen- 
 dicular. On the north fide there is a quarry of freeftone, which is very 
 much ufed for the buildings of Cairo. 
 
 Kekk Bey. Under this hill, to the north, are the burial places call'd Keick Bey, I 
 fuppofe from fome Bey of that name having a remarkable fepulchre here, 
 where there are a great number of magnificent tombs cover'd with cupo- 
 las, and feveral large mofques built over the burial places of great men, 
 extending for above a mile to the north eaft. In one part, many of the 
 relations of Mahomet are buried, probably of the families of the antient 
 Califs of Egypt ; which places are efteem'd fo facred, that it is not per- 
 
 Adalia. mitted for Chriftians to go among thofe fepulchres. Beyond thefe fe- 
 pulchres, and the cube of the Azabs, is the country call'd Adalia, where 
 there is only one houfe, in which the tribute is depofitcd, that is to be 
 fent to Cairo, after the Bey that is to attend it has made his public pro- 
 ceffion thro' the city, till fuch time as all things are ready for their de j 
 parture, which is often three or four months. A Bey with a guard is 
 alfo appointed monthly to guard this part of the country, as another has 
 in charge old Cairo, and the parts about it. 
 
 Bagnios. In Cairo there are feveral bagnios, fome of which are very handfome 
 within, being places of great refort in Turkey, both on a religious ac- 
 count, 
 
ON EGYPT. 37 
 
 count, in order to purifie themfelves, and alfo as places of refrefhment 
 and diverfion, efpecially for the women, who once or twice a week fpend 
 moft part of the day in the bagnios, and are glad of fuch a pretence to 
 get out of their confinement. There are fome bagnios on ptirpofe for the 
 women, but the more general method is to fet apart certain times for 
 them ; but the ladies are deprived of this public opportunity of bathing 
 among the very great people, who have bagnios prepared for them in their 
 own houfes. 
 
 They have alfo feveral canes in Cairo, which they call here Okelas ; they CmK ' 
 are very indifferent buildings round a court, are commonly appropriated 
 to merchants of a particular country, with their merchandife ; as there 
 is one for thofe of Nubia, and the black flaves and other goods they bring 
 along with them ; another for white flaves from Georgia ; they have alfo 
 feveral canes at Bulac, in all which ftrangers are accommodated with a 
 room at a very fmall price, but with nothing elfe ; fo that excepting the 
 room, there are no greater accommodations in thefe houfes than there are 
 in the deferts, unlefs from the conveniency of a market near. 
 
 I went to fee fome of the beft houfes in Cairo. The great men have a Koufes ia 
 faloon for common ufe, and another for ftate; and as they have four Ca ' ro ' 
 wives, each of them has a faloon, with the apartments about it, that have 
 no communication with the other parts of the houfe, except the common 
 entrance for the fervants, which is kept lock'd ; and the private entrance, 
 of which the mafler keeps the key. They have fuch a machine made to 
 turn round, as they ufe in nunneries, which receives any thing they want 
 to give in or out, without feeing one another. At the houfe of Ofman 
 Bey, there is a fine faloon with a lobby before it ; the grand room is an 
 oblong fquare; in the middle is ano&agon marble pillar; the room is wain- 
 fcotted on two fides about eight feet high, in pannels of grey marble, 
 with a border round every pannel of mofaic work ; the end at which one 
 enters, and the fide where the windows are, not being finifh'd in this 
 manner ; the fopha extends all round the room, and the whole is fur- 
 niiii'd with the richerc velvet cufhions, and the floor cover'd with fine 
 carpets. I faw another magnificent houfe, of a much older date than 
 this; it is faid to have been built by Sultan Nafir lben Calahoun, or Ca- 
 laun, who was the feventh King of Egypt of the Mamalukcs, call'd Baha- 
 rites, and lived about the year one thoufand two hundred and fevenry- 
 nine. The houfe is built round a fmall court, in which there are feveral 
 large apartments. The entrance to the grand apartment is by a fine old 
 door, fomething in the Gcthic tafte ; there is one thing very particular, a 
 fort of double pillars on each fide of the door, cut out of one ftone, work'd 
 fo as to appear as if two pillars were bent and link'd together, like a 
 chain, which will be better underftcod by the draught in the thirteenth 
 plate, mark'd B. The magnificent faloon is in the figure of a Greek 
 crofs, with a cupola in the middle; it is wainfeotted for ten feet high, in 
 a very coflly manner; round at top, about two feet deep, are Arabic in- 
 fcriptions; then for about two feet more, are works of mother of pearl, 
 and fine marbles, in the figure of fmall arches. Below this it is all done 
 in pannels, which have a border round of mofaic work in mother of pearl, 
 and blue fmalt, or a fort of glafs that is not tranfparent ; in fome the mid- 
 dle part is of the fineft marbles, in others all of mofaic work. I went to 
 
 Vol.. I. L fee 
 
3 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Tee the manner of hatching chickens in ovens, and the method they take 
 to make fal armoniac, which I fhall particularly defcribe in another place. 
 Thofe feem much to exceed as to the number of people in Cairo, who 
 compute that there are two millions, tho' it is pofitively affirm'd that fe- 
 ven thoufand have died in one day of the plague ; in which they fay they 
 can make an exact computation, from the number of biers that are let to 
 People of carry out the dead. There is a great mixture of people in Cairo, the 
 Ca,r °' city being compofed of original Egyptians, among whom are the Copti 
 Chriftians ; of Arabians ; of the people of Barbary, and the weftern parts 
 of Africa; of the Berberines of the parts of Nubia, a great number of 
 their men coming here to offer themfelvts as fervants. They are a Molotto 
 race ; have a fort of government among themfelves, thofe of fuch a part of 
 the country chufing a Sheik or head, who takes care of all new comers to 
 recommend them to places, to fupply them with money when they are 
 out of fervice, or fick, for which they have a common purfe ; and when 
 they are able, they faithfully return what was difburfed on them. There 
 are likewife fome of the Turcoman race, fuch as are fent from Conftan- 
 tinople to fill fome places, and fuch as the Pafhas bring with them, and 
 chance to fettle here ; but it is probable that the greater part of the people 
 of Cairo are of the Mamaluke race, defcended from thofe Haves moftly 
 of Georgia and parts about it, who have lince the Mamaluke eftablifh- 
 ment, come into the government, and into moft of their offices, and con- 
 tinue to do io by a conftant frefh fupply to this day ; of which I fhall 
 have occafion to fay more under the government of Egypt. There are 
 likewife in Cairo fome Greeks, a few Armenians, and many Jews. Of 
 the Europeans, there are fettled here only the French, Englifh, and fome 
 Italians from Venice and Leghorn. The Francifcans dependant on the 
 convent at Jerufalem, have a large new-built monaftery, which was pulFd 
 down once or twice by the mob, whilft they were building it, before they 
 could fatisfie the great people, who wanted prefents; and it coft them 
 great fums of money, not only for the building, but to make all the great 
 men their friends. The fuperior here is call'd the vice-prefect of Egypt, 
 the guardian of Jerufalem having the title of prefect. There is another 
 convent of Francifcans, who are fent miffionaries from Rome with a fu- 
 perior, who is call'd alfo the prefect of Egypt, and commands three con- 
 vents they have in upper Egypt. Thefe live on a fmall allowance they 
 have from Rome, and on the charity of their difciples ; they are under 
 the protection of the Englifh, who are ready in thefe countries, to pro- 
 tect all Chriftians : The other Francifcans, a convent of Capuchines, and 
 another of Jefuits, are under the protection of the French. When any of 
 the Englifh happen to die in any parts of the Levant, they are buried 
 with the Greeks, and according to the ceremonies of their church, where 
 there is no Englifh chaplain. The European merchants fettled here, con- 
 fidering how much they are confined, live agreeably enough among them- 
 felves ; are generally fociable with thofe of their own nation ; and in a plen- 
 tiful country, they do not want whatever may make life pafs agreeably. 
 The morning being fpent in bufinefs, the remainder of the day is often 
 paiTed in riding out to the fields and gardens to the north of Cairo, 
 where for a mile out of town, there is little danger ; fometimes the whole 
 day is fpent in diverfions that way ; and they have a relaxation from bu- 
 finefs 
 
O N E G Y P T. 39 
 
 finefs both on the Chriftian and Jewifh fabbath, as the Jews tranfadt a 
 great part of their affairs. When the Nile is high, and little bufinefs is 
 done, they fpend their time in the houfes they have at old Cairo and 
 Gize; fo that ftrangers pafs their time as agreeably as the circumftances 
 of the place will admit, the gentlemen here fhewing them all manner of 
 civility, efpecially fuch as come out of curiofity, who never fail to meet 
 with a kind reception in their houfes, Which they safily oblige them to 
 make their home, as it is very difficult to be otherwife accommodated 
 here. 
 
 The great trade of this place is an import of broad clothes, tin, and Trade to 
 lead, an export of coffee, fenna, faffranounes for dying, flax, and feve- Cair °' 
 ral druggs which come moftly from Perfia ; they alfo import raw {ilk from 
 Afia, and manufacture it chiefly into fattins, and fome filks in imitation of 
 thofe of India ; and at fome places near, they have manufactures of coarfe 
 linnen. They alfo make fugar of the growth of the country, which is 
 neither cheap nor fine, except a fmall quantity, very fine, for the ufe of 
 the Grand Signior ; but as it is very dear> fo it is not commonly to be met 
 with for fale. They have fome manufactures in great perfection, as mak- 
 ing Turkifh ftirrops, and all furniture for horfes ; and I obferved the bars 
 both of iron and brafs they make chequerwife to put before their win- 
 dows, were of very good workmanfhip, tho' 1 imagined they were moftly 
 of the time of the Mamalukes. They make lattifes for windows of turn'd 
 work, in wood, in a very curious and beautiful manner. About Menou- 
 fieh alfo in Delta, they make that fine matting of dyed rufhes, which is 
 fent not only all over the Turkifh empire, but alfo to moft parts of Eu- 
 rope. They work alfo very well at the filver trade, as in moft parts of 
 Turkey, for ornaments for their women and horfes, which is generally 
 carried on every where by the Chriftians. The conveniency of water 
 carriage makes Cairo a place of great trade, for there are few arts in any 
 tolerable perfection higher up, or indeed in any other part of Egypt, fo 
 that all the country, up the Nile at leaft, is fupplied with moft things from 
 the great city ; and as there is little credit among the Turks, and it is very 
 rare they truft one another to negotiate any bufinefs by bills, or rifque 
 their money in the hands of any one ; this always occafions a great con- 
 flux of people to Grand Cairo ; fo that probably near a quarter of the 
 fouls in the city not being fix'd inhabitants, and as they are not afraid of 
 the plague, but come to the city notwithflanding the infection, fo it may 
 be fuppofed that a great number of the people that die of that diftem- 
 per, are thofe who come every day to Cairo about their affairs. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 Of Memphis, and the Pyramids near Cairo. 
 
 I" T is very extraordinary that the fituation of Memphis fhould not be well Memphis 
 J_ known, which was fo great and famous a city, and for fo long a time 
 the capital of Egypt ; but as many of the beft materials of it might be 
 carried to Alexandria ; and afterwards when fuch large cities were built 
 
 near 
 
 3 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 near it, as Cairo, and thofe about it, it is no wonder that all the mate- 
 rials fhould be carried away to places fo near and fo well frequented ; 
 and the city being in this manner levelled, and the Nile overflowing the 
 old ruins, it may be eafily accounted for, how every thing has been bu- 
 ried or cover'd over, as if no fuch place had ever been. There are two 
 diftances mention'd by Strabo h , in order to fix the fituation of Memphis ; 
 he fays it was about eleven miles from Delta, and five from the height 
 on which the pyramids were built, which appear to be the pyramids of 
 Gize. Diodorus fays that it was fifteen miles from the pyramids, which 
 Jeems to be a miftake. Strabo fpeaks alfo of Memphis as near Babylon, fo 
 that probably it was fituated on the Nile, about the middle, between the 
 pyramids of Gize and Sacara, fo that I conjecture this city was about 
 Mocanan and Metrahenny, which are in the road from Cairo to Faiume, 
 on the weft fide of the Nile, and rather nearer to the pyramids of Sacara, 
 than to thofe of Gize ; for at Mocanan I faw fome heaps of rubbifh, but 
 much greater about Metrahenny, and a great number of grottos cut in 
 the oppofite hills on the eaft fide of the river, which might be the fepul- 
 chres of the common people of Memphis, as thofe on the weitern hills 
 were probably, for the moft part, the burial places of their Deities, their 
 Kings, their great people, and their defendants. I obferved alfo a 
 large bank to the fouth of Metrahenny, running towards Sacara, which 
 may be the rampart mention'd by Diodorus Siculus ', as a defence to the 
 city, not only againft the overflowing of the Nile, but alfo againft an 
 enemy ; and therefore muft be different from that mention'd by Herodo- 
 tus, as twelve miles and a half fouth of Memphis, by which the courfe 
 of the river was turn'd, and confequently at that diftance, could not well 
 be faid to be a defence to the city. Pliny is ftill more plain, and fays 
 that the pyramids were between Memphis and Delta, not four miles from 
 the river, and fix from Memphis *, which fixes this city about the place 
 I mention. 
 
 There is another circumftance in the fituation of this city, that there 
 were large lakes * to the north and weft of it, both as a defence, and 
 probably alfo to fupply fome part of the city with water; and I faw 
 feveral fuch lakes to the north and weft of Metrahenny. It is alfo very 
 remarkable that Menes the firft. King of Egypt, according to Herodotus, 
 turn'd the courfe of the Nile, which run under the wcfiern hills, and 
 made it pafs in the middle between them and the eaftern hills, and built 
 the city where the river firft run; it is not improbable thatCalig Al-Heram, 
 that is the canal of the pyramids, and the weftern canal, fome miles be- 
 
 b 'H Miy.ipis alvTtj Tfl /3«G-i'Aetov ti Jk 'Aiyvxliuv' eVi 
 
 yuo «7ro ^5 AeAt« t£/it;£0|vov «ff ccuth'j naAjf 
 
 £' EVi i/E j/aAi; TE Euait^cc , <£eute£« L*£Tct 'AA«|«vJoh«v, 
 JMyaSuv dvS^m x«3"«<te^ h, tibv ek« awuwfimm' &ga- 
 umiou be li, hiy.vou rij; ESTEAEaf x\ Ttti* p&o-iAeiw*, « vvv 
 
 Kovla piyjy. t5 xctTU ttic EsraAsac ijutyvs' iruvaV7e* 
 A aAo-tgr oujtu ;i, Aiuvjj. Tfilaf^^adu. A' «Vo T-?f woAe&jf 
 f«Ji'oi( irfc£A:}o'vT/, o'gHvtj' TIP ePgur es-jv, ip ji rooAA«* 
 jUEv nuqapiSzt eiVi t»'$01 Twv /BkfiAewv. Strabo 1. 17. 
 p. 807, 808. 
 
 1 PfovT®' yctq t£ NeiAh t?tf> Tfjv itgAiv, k) kmt» t«e 
 
 BVaSafTtti £7TI)tAu^0VT0f, U710 fitV T& VOTii OtScthtit 
 
 X/ip» &U[*iJ.iy&ii iffgof ^utv Tf;v 3*rA>ffWju lis &ola[AX 
 
 srestjAH^olor. argof cJe ts? «/To t?( yrjs sroAEtdWr, 
 
 «Kft!TDA£We E^OV T«|lV* EJC At 7WV «AAW» pEf^V KT«V- 
 
 S^ov is EEroTs^/a &;gojU£l'if, x) sr«v]» to* nr£fy\ t>jii etoAiv 
 toVov arAtj^ffct, Mr* ri x«T£ffK£v«s-o SoLupzsyi 
 
 ejj-o'ih tijv iyu^-i^a. Diodorus i. 1 . p, 46. 
 * See quotation r. on the pyramids. 
 'Est ya% ji, Mlppiff it t&j s-«v£ the 'Aiyv-nl*, 
 
 e£<t>&EV (JE eWlW ttg/O^^CU Al'tiL^B £!t TK uToloI^tK STfOf 
 
 (3;^si]V ts jej tcni^y To j-c.j eet^o? tjjv jj» oJto's NsiAof 
 a-Tti^yti' tKto Je, W H^oiV y to i'ojv iS^ucx&au h ojji^ 
 
 eov ,uej<« te ^ a£i«(p!;^>jT;T«7{iy. Herodotus 1. ii. 
 c. 99. Sec note i. 
 
 yond 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 41 
 
 yond Metrahenny, over which there is a large bridge, and which at pre- 
 fent runs under the hills, may at leaft in fome parts, be the remains of 
 the antient bed of the Nile ; and from this account we have, the city of 
 Memphis feems to have extended from the old canal to the new one, and 
 fome parts of it to have reach'd as far as the hills ; for the Serapium 1 is 
 mention'd in a very fandy place, and confequently towards the hills where 
 the Nile does not overflow, for I found the country fandy in fome parts 
 for near a mile from the hills. The palace of the Kings alfo was on 
 high ground, extending down to the lower parts of the city, where there 
 were lakes and groves adjoining to it ; and I faw near Sacara a fort of 
 wood of the Acacia tree, this and Dendera being the only places in Egypt 
 where I faw wood grow as without art, and it is pofllble this wood may 
 be fome remains of the antient groves about Memphis. The city being, 
 according to fome authors, above eighteen miles round m , it might very 
 well take up the whole fpace between the river and the hills, which I take 
 not to be above four or five miles ; but what fixes the fituation of Memphis 
 to this part, is Pliny's account, who fays that the pyramids were between 
 Memphis and the Delta. 
 
 This city was famous for the worlhip of Ofiris, under the fhape of a 
 living bull they call'd Apis, probably becaufe that animal is fo ufeful in 
 agriculture invented by that King. They had alfo a famous temple of 
 Vulcan, and another that was dedicated to Venus. 
 
 The moft remarkable pyramids which are taken notice of by the an- Pyramids, 
 tients, muft, according to this account, have been to the north weft of 
 Memphis ; they are call'd now the pyramids of Gize, and according to 
 this defcription of the antients, are towards the brow of the hills ; for the 
 low hills extending to the fouth eaft, on the weft fide of the Delta, and 
 near to this place, they here fet out for about two miles to the eaft, and 
 then running fouth, the pyramids are built towards the north eaft angle 
 the hills being computed to be about one hundred feet high above the plain, 
 and are of fuch freeftone as the pyramids are built with. On examining 
 the pyramids, and taking a view from the top of the great pyramid, I 
 made the plan of them and the fepulchres about them in the fixteenth 
 plate ; and it was a confiderable time after I left Egypt, that I imagined 
 fome regularity might have been defign'd, if not on building the firft great 
 p} .-amid, yet at fome time after, it may be when they began to build the 
 iecond ; and where I have fupplied the plan to make it regular, I either 
 fuppofe it to be deftroy'd, or which is more likely, that it might be laid 
 down as a plan by fome King, to be executed by his fucceflbrs ; but as all 
 this is pure conjecture, fo every one may judge as he thinks proper. The 
 tombs about the great pyramid are diftinguifiYd from the fmall pyramids 
 by their not being ihaded. Moft of thofe pyramids are very much ruin'd, 
 and fome of them I concluded to be fo only from their being fquare, 
 higher than the tombs, and having ruins about them. Thefe tombs are 
 oblong fquare folid buildings raifed two or three feet above the ground ; 
 and I faw in fome of them holes fill'd up with fand, by which without 
 doubt they defcended to the apartments where they depofited the dead. 
 
 "Ef< It it, SsfytVffov sv &py.iu$H toVw (rtfo^*, m ToV av ro£^'£oAou Ti?f croAEWf ejtoiVe suStur 
 u'jt «v£i*wi> &iv«f &y.pm trwjEuii&iw. Strabo £k«to* K, arevTwcoklet. Diodorus I. I. p. 46. 
 
 L xvii. p. 807. " See note i. 
 
 Vol. 1. M Thefe 
 
42 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Thefe might be the fepulchres of the near dependants, or poffibly of fome 
 of the relations of the Kings, who were buried in the great pyrami is ; 
 and it may be the relations might be buried under thefe fmall pyramids, 
 which might be a diftindtion not permitted to any others. Thofe mark'd 
 T. are only holes, being probably tombs they had deftroy'd, and dug down 
 to fee if they could find any treafures. 
 
 As the pyramids are fuppofed to have been cafed with a hard ftone or 
 marble brought from the mountains of Arabia, of which there are quar- 
 ries near the Red fea, fo it muft have been a work of great labour to bring 
 Caufeway. the materials to this place. Herodotus ° obferves that they made a caufe- 
 way of ftone five furlongs in length, fifty feet broad, and in fome parts 
 forty feet high ; tho' this latter feems to be a miftake, unlefs any 
 bridge of that heighth in the way may juftify our author's expreffion, 
 who adds that it was made of polifh'd ftones that were adorn'd with the 
 figures of beafts, which might be only in fome particular parts. This he 
 thinks was a work not much inferior to that of building the pyramids. 
 The ftones might be convey'd by the canal that runs about two miles 
 north of the pyramids, and from thence part of the way by this extraor- 
 dinary caufeway ; for at this time there is a caufeway from that part, ex- 
 tending about a thoufand yards in length, and twenty feet wide, built of 
 hewn ftone ; the length of it agreeing fo well with the account of Hero- 
 dotus, is a ftrong confirmation that this caufeway has been kept up ever 
 fince, tho' fome of the materials of it may have been changed, all being 
 now built with freeftone. It is ftrengthened on each fide with femicircu- 
 lar buttreffes, about fourteen feet diameter, and thirty feet apart; there 
 are fixty-one of thefe buttreffes, beginning from the north: Sixty feet 
 further it turns to the weft for a little way, then there is a bridge of about 
 twelve arches, twenty feet wide, built on peers that are ten feet wide. 
 Above one hundred yards further, there is fuch another bridge, beyond 
 which the caufeway continues about one hundred yards to the fouth, end- 
 ing about a mile from the pyramids, where the ground is higher. The 
 country over which the caufeway is built being low, and the water lying 
 on it a great while, feems to be the realbn for building this caufeway at 
 firft, and continuing to keep it in repair. Oppofite to it, if I am not 
 miftaken, there is an eafy afcent up for the carriage of the ftone, as mark'd 
 in the plan at B. The hill to the eaft of this, on the north fide, is very 
 fteep, and it is with the greateft difficulty one afcends by the way C. that 
 leads up oppofite to the great pyramid A. which is at the north eaft angle 
 of the hill B. Herodotus fays it was built by Cheops, King of Egypt j 
 Diodorus calls him Chemmis or Chembes. The former p fays it was eight 
 hundred Greek feet fquare, the latter ' feven hundred, Strabo ' lefs than 
 
 ° X^o'tov Si tyivi&cct Tg>£oLt£vw luS Aaw JsxoJ jaIy q TV ex! t?s /3*««c uht^f^v EKws-tjv i^n htAeB-^oj* 
 
 £TE« Tfr o'oV, y.XT $v o<Axov T)if Ai'08ff Tijv tiJ«//«v' i^yi* tirlx, to SS^as srAei'w rm e£ EffAE^wv evvxywyry 
 
 iav si sroAAw tsoj eAojoxov T*if ziv&piSoi, oj'j ijAoi SmtHv' S ex tk x«t* ahtyav hx^xvusx pkxzfi tjk xooufsf, 
 
 Trjf jw'ev yx$ jui&xor Efi stevte jaAoi' svfof St, Stxx ixocVifii sTAtu^y eetoio* strawy s£. Diodorus 1. i. p. 57. 
 
 Of yijOA' uvtflf TJJ lIJ/ElAoTOITp Ef) OWTtJ EOJUTJJf, OXTW 1 TftTf S oj|<oAoJ 01, T«f Si <»O0 TifTtilV EV TOTc ln\x 
 
 cgyyx*' a/S-k te ^e?k tij £oj£ov iyfiyhvuivm' rouiry Si Sixfold KanctejtSfjtQvlxt' etiri yxg sxSicuau to v4.ar, 
 
 Stj tx Stw.x eteos ysv£o9-ou, ^ toji> eVI tS Ao$«, E7r x rflt^ymat tw ^-eijuosTi tij? srAEvg^? exosVjic i4ikoo7 pUfyv 
 
 isxci at J^v^tfilSti rxv wVo ym at^jjuxruv txs e7toi£e1o to weJ/©- E^so-iti" jUixgu St ^ ij it't^cf Tflc ETEgcjif ErJ 
 
 $>jxotf EWVTW Ek vij'o-oj, Stuguyx ii N«Aa tvxyxym. /aei'^oj"' e^oj S iv i?d/« pEO-wc uws Tojf stAeu^uv Ai'9-ov 
 
 Herodotus ii. c. 124. i{,x,fts%f.m- uf$tal& Si ei&yi if) o*sa,« pixit t« 
 
 p *E?I zrxvtxy.ij ptranrov exalov c'xtoj eb-Ae9-^, ssrHf irwx>ic' xinat p.sy iv iyytjs sthhqhuv fir} toj eUTui imTt'tSu. 
 
 tdgcfymx ^ ud-gn Troy. Herodotus 1. ii. c. 125. Strabo ]. 1 7. p. 808. 
 
 fix 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 fix hundred, and Greaves meafuring it very exactly, found it to be fix 
 hundred ninety- three Englifh feet; fo that the area takes up a little more 
 than eleven acres. The perpendicular height he found to be four hundred 
 ninety-nine feet, the inclined plain being equal to its bafis, the angles and 
 bafe making an equilateral triangle. Greaves found the meafure at top 
 thirteen feet, Diodorus lays it was nine feet, thofe who have made it more 
 are not to be credited, and it is poffible that one tier of ftone may have 
 been taken away. There are on the top nine ftones, two being wanting 
 at the angles, and the two upper fteps are not perfect; nor could I fee 
 any fign in the middle of a ftatue having been fix'd there. The upper 
 tiers of ftones not being entire, I meafured two fteps below the top, and 
 it was twenty-fix feet on the north fide, and thirty on the weft ; fo that 
 either the pyramid is not fquare, or it inclines with a greater angle to 
 the weft and eaft, than to the north and fouth. The number of fteps 
 have been related very differently ; from two hundred and feven, Greaves's 
 number, to two hundred and fixty, the number of Albert Lewenftein ; 
 but as Mallet, who alfo was very exaft, counted two hundred and eight, 
 it is probable the number of the fteps is two hundred and feven, or eight, 
 tho' I counted them two hundred and twelve. The fteps are from two 
 feet and a half to four feet high, not being lb high towards the top as at 
 the bottom, and broad in proportion to their height, being placed, as 
 Greaves obferves, fo as that a line ftretched from the bottom to the top, 
 would touch the angle of every ftep. The method of afcending is by the 
 angle to the north eaft, in order to keep in a ftrait line ; and when the 
 fteps are high, or fometimes one ftep entirely broke away, they are obliged 
 to look for a convenient place to afcend, where the fteps are intire, or a 
 high ftep is a little moulder'd away, fo as to make the afcent more eafy. 
 It is thought that this, as well as the other pyramids, was cafed with a 
 finer ftone on the outfide, becaufe it is faid that not only the mortar has 
 been feen in which the ftones were fix'd, but alfo fome pieces of white 
 marble flicking to the mortar, which they fuppofe were left on their taking 
 away the ftone for fome other ufe; and this feems to be intimated by 
 Herodotus, who fays that this pyramid was built at firft with fteps; that 
 being done, they raifed the ftones (as it muft be fuppofed to cafe it) by 
 machines from one ftep to another, not having any longer a greater breadth 
 than a ftep to fix their machines on, which muft have been a great work. 
 In this manner he fays they did the upper part firft, and fo continued it 
 down, finilhing the lower part laft. * Pliny mentions a very extraordinary 
 thing with regard to thefe pyramids, and that is, that fome men were fo 
 very adroit that they could go up to the top of them; which if they were 
 cafed with fuch hard fmooth ftone as they appear to have been, this would 
 incline any one to conclude that this ftory ought to be look'd on in the fame 
 light as many other extravagant things he mentions ; for to afcend by the fteps 
 could never have been very difficult, and was probably what the workmen 
 did every day. Herodotus . fpeaks of fubterraneous apartments under the 
 
 * Sitae funt in parte Africse, monte faxeo fterilique, centa xvi. hominum millia annis viginti earn 
 
 inter Memphim oppidum et quod appellari dixi- conftruxifTe produntur. Tres vero fa&se annis 
 
 mns Delta, a Nilo minus quatuor millia paiTuum, lexaginta o£to, menlibus quatuor. PUn. Nat. Hijl, 
 
 a Memphi fexj vico appofito quam vocant Bufiris, 1. lxvi. c. 12. 
 
 in quo funt aflueti fcandere il las. Sed pyramis ' See o, 
 
 ampiiflima ex Arabicis lapidicinis conftat ; Tre- 
 
 pyramid, 
 
 3 
 
44 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 pyramid, and fays that the tomb was in an ifland made by water brought 
 from the Nile by a canal ; from which one would conjecture that the 
 wells I fhall mention led to the fepulchre, and that the tomb which is feen 
 in the large room, was delign'd for fome other perfon of the royal family. 
 
 It may be look'd on as a very extraordinary thing, how the entrance 
 into the pyramid fhould be found out, which it is faid was an enterprize 
 of the Calif Mahomet, who lived in the year eight hund»ed twenty-feven 
 of the Chriftian iEra ; but without doubt this prince was inform'd of every 
 thing related by antient authors, with regard to thefe extraordinary build- 
 ings, that they were the fepulchres of the Kings of Egypt, and that as 
 Strabo ' relates, there was in the middle of the pyramids a ftone that 
 might be taken out to open a way to the paffage that led to the tombs ; 
 not that it is probable that they immediately found the place, but having 
 meafured out the middle of the pyramid, they might begin and work 
 lower ; all below being cover'd with Hones and rubbifli : They might 
 alfo get fome light by founding along up the middle of the pyramid, in 
 order to conje&ure where the hollow paffage might be, or by piercing it 
 in feveral parts with proper tools. 
 
 For the particulars of the infide of the pyramid, I refer to Mallet's 
 account, which I have added at the latter end of this volume, and to the 
 meafures below " taken from Greaves, as well as my own obfervations and 
 
 See r. 
 
 An account of the meafures of the infide of 
 the great pyramid from Greaves G. fup- 
 plied from Maillet M. Sicard S. and my 
 own obfervations P. Maillet's and Sicard's 
 meafures being French feet. 
 
 Feet. 
 16 
 38 
 3 
 92 
 
 89 
 20 
 
 9 
 
 Sh 5 
 
 I 10 
 
 15 
 
 Steps to the entrance 
 Height to it 
 Wide and high 
 Long 
 
 Broken paffage G. 
 Long 
 Broad 
 
 Height to paffage H. 
 Paffage H. wide and hi, 
 Long 
 
 Landing place L. long 
 Paffage N. wide and high 3 
 Long 1 1 o 
 
 Room O. long 1 7 
 
 Broad 1 5 
 
 Walls high to the flope 1 1 
 Length of the flope 10 
 Diameter of well, above 
 Afcent into the gallery 
 
 at M. about 
 Middle paffage broad 
 
 at M, 
 Benches high at 
 Wide 1 
 Whole breadth of gall. P. 6 
 Holes for the feat at Q;_ 
 Long 1 
 Broad 00 
 Deep 00 
 Diltance from one another 3 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Parts of 
 feet. 
 
 — G.P. 
 
 — G. 
 
 — G. 
 
 00 — 
 
 00 — 
 
 } 
 
 G. 
 
 G. 
 G. 
 
 G. 
 
 G. 
 . G. 
 . M. 
 - G. 
 
 M. 
 
 ■ M. 
 
 ■ S. 
 S. 
 G. 
 
 M. 
 
 3TT 
 TTT 
 
 — P. 
 
 — P. 
 
 — s. 
 
 — p. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Twenty-eight of thefe 
 holes on each fide S. 
 This gallery high 26 
 Height of two tiers of 7 
 ftone, to the ftone that > 5 
 fets in J 
 Each ftone fets out 00 
 The feven tiers that fet7 
 out, each indepthaboutj 2 
 Landing place R. is of 
 the fame width. P. 
 Long 5 
 High 10 
 Paffage T. long 8 
 Wide 4 
 High 4 
 Second room Y. wide 4 
 Long 6 
 Next paffage B B. 
 Wide 4 
 Long 8 
 Great room long 
 Wide 
 High 
 
 Nine ftones cover the room. 
 The two next the walls i 
 
 wide j 
 The reft wide 4 
 Six tiers of ftone compofe 
 
 the fides, being all of 
 
 an equal breadth. 
 The tomb long 7 
 Wide 3 
 Deep 3 
 Long within 6 
 Wide within 2 
 Deep within 2 
 
 Parts of 
 Inches, feet. 
 
 34 
 '7 
 '9 
 
 6 
 
 00 
 
 00 — ■ 
 
 00 — 
 
 3i 
 
 3k 
 3i 
 
 G. 
 P. 
 
 P. 
 
 P. 
 
 P. 
 G. 
 P. 
 P. 
 P. 
 P. 
 P. 
 
 P. 
 
 P. 
 G. 
 G. 
 
 G. 
 
 M. 
 M. 
 
 G. 
 G. 
 G. 
 G. 
 G. 
 G. 
 
 others, 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 others, and have given Mallet's fe&ion of it in the ieventeenth plate. I 
 have alfo added in the fixteenth plate, a plan of the laft great gallery E. 
 and of the apartments it leads to, together with a fection of that gallery 
 F. mark'd with the fame letters as the great fection, in order to give a 
 more clear idea of it. 
 
 It is to be obferved that the room X. has pilafters round it fix inches 
 broad, and three feet apart, which could not be reprefented in this fcale. 
 Mallet alfo fays that there are but four tier of ftones on the fides that fet 
 out on each fide of the gallery F. tho' Greaves gives an account of feven, 
 and fo I am almoft certain I number'd them myfelf. 
 
 The fecond pyramid D. has a foffee cut in the rock to the north and 
 weft of it, which is about ninety feet wide, and thirty feet deep ; there 
 are fmall apartments cut from it into the rock, fome of which are double, 
 a plan of them may be feen as reprefented in the fixteenth plate. Over 
 the doors, about ten feet from the ground, are holes cut in the rock as 
 to let in the ends of ftones, which I fuppofe were for the cover of a 
 portico, being laid on pillars that might be before thefe apartments. 
 Ten feet higher, are holes cut in like manner in the rock; fo that thev 
 might have defign'd to make other apartments over thefe, cut likewife out 
 of the rock, and to have a gallery before them as below. It is faid this 
 pyramid was built by Cephrenes, the brother of Cheops. Thevenot af- 
 firms that it is fix hundred and thirty-one French feet fquare, and Hero- 
 dotus " feems to fay that it ftood on as much ground as the other, but 
 that it was forty feet lower; he fays alfo that it had not buildings under 
 ground as the firft, nor a channel to it from the Nile, but that an ifland 
 was made within it by means of an aqueduct, in which lay the body of 
 Cheops ; fo that it is probable a paffage was hewn through the rock to an 
 apartment cut likewife out of the folid rock, in which this ifland might 
 be contrived, according to the account that Herodotus had. Strabo fays 
 that the height of both the pyramids was a little more than the length of 
 the fides, which feems to be a miftake for a little lefs *. He fays they 
 were both of the fame height, and fo they feem'd to me when I was at 
 the top of the great one ; but he adds that one was a little lefs than 
 the other, which might be, if we fuppofe one to have a more eafy afcent 
 than the other. The account of Strabo feems to be the more probable, 
 the fecond pyramid appearing fteeper than the other. It was completely 
 finifh'd on the outfide, tho' ruin'd in feveral places; and a hole has been 
 made fome way up, as to find an entrance on the north fide. Herodotus 
 alfo obferves, that the firft tier of ftone was of iEthiopic marble, that is 
 granite; this probably was the loweft tier, or the bale of the pyramid. 
 And Diodorus * fays there were fteps cut in the fide of this pyramid, 
 which might be contrived in the middle, by not filling up the fteps there, 
 and by making two fteps of one, as was the practice in the afcents they 
 
 tcu uSihOiiit mjtS Xe^Suk' k, t£tov Je tw ou/'tw TgoVw jWfy«A>jf oiKoSepn' sjairi Je eVJ Ao'cft; t£ (U/'ts a[A$a- 
 
 ^'«XC^ 0&a "TWET£§W - T«T£«AA«, «, UV (^l j^iSd UOiKCDU, ll^M, [ACtAl^St EJ SX«T0» SToJ*? It\|/ljft2. Het"OdotUS 
 
 iff t« ixiirn p'T^ ax awt;WaV t«utm y«§ m ^ 1. U. C. 127, 
 
 rptH f ipfyfoaptr' are vz-es-i o»xv'p«I« fa& y$v, «t6 * This is an error that might eafily be made, 
 ek NrtA».Ji(.>^u| 6 f aj-r>)v, iWsf ii tiic m^tji, by putting pei^uv for 
 
 Stoiv-ch^fAiw S\ ctuhu*@r tVat, vtjffou TZi^im' x 'Ava'£«in» tf' t^ei cW pictf Twy STAeugwv tyxEicoAajW- 
 h Ttj owtoV htyxat mo&« Xso7r«" uVoJefftcef toV pivw. Diodorus 1. i. p. 58. 
 
 Vol. I. N made 
 
O B S ERVA T IONS 
 
 made in the antient theatres. According to my obfervations, the cafing 
 of this pyramid did not projed beyond the angle of the fteps, as it did in 
 thofe beyond Sacara, but was executed as reprefented in the fixteenth plate. 
 I obferved that on the north and eaft fides, the upper part of the pyra- 
 mid was entire for forty or fifty feet down from the top, as I conjectured, 
 and the ftone feem'd to fet further out for near a hundred teet from the 
 top than it does below, which I could not account for. 
 
 Towards the fouth eaft corner of this pyramid, there are fome grottos 
 tut in the rock, and adorn'd with hieroglyphics ; and to the eaft of it 
 there are remains of walls, which probably may be what a certain author 
 calls a temple, before the fecond pyramid; there being more vifible re- 
 mains before the third pyramid, which feem to be the ruins of a tem- 
 ple. 
 
 Directly in the front of the fecond pyramid, about a quarter of a mile 
 to the eaft of it, is the famous fphynx H. about half a quarter of a mile 
 from the water when the Nile overflows, being on much lower ground 
 than the pyramids. Here feems to have been the grand way up to thefe 
 magnificent ftructures ; the other I mention'd having been probably made 
 for the conveniency of carrying the ftone up to the great pyramid. 
 
 The rock feems to have been dug away all round the fphynx for a great 
 way, and the ftone was doubtlefs employ'd in building the pyramids, the 
 fphynx being cut out of the folid rock ; for what has been taken by fome 
 to be joynings of the ftone, is only veins in the rock. This extraordinary 
 monument is faid to have been the fepulchre of Amafis, tho' I think it 
 is mention'd by none of the antient authors, except Pliny *. I found by 
 the quadrant that it is about twenty-feven feet high, the neck and head 
 only being above ground ; the lower part of the neck, or the beginning of 
 the breaft is thirty-three feet wide, and it is twenty feet from the fore part 
 of the neck to the back, and thence to the hole in the back it is feventy- 
 five feet, the hole being five feet long, from which to the tail, if I 
 miflake not, it is thirty feet ; which fomething exceeds Pliny's account, 
 who fays that it is a hundred and thirteen feet long. The fand is rilen 
 up in fuch a manner that the top of the back only is feen; fome perfons 
 have lately got to the top of the head, where they found a hole, which 
 probably ferved for the arts of the priefts in uttering oracles; as that in 
 the back might be to defcend to the apartments beneath. 
 
 A little to the weft north weft of the fphynx is a fmall ruin'd pyra- 
 mid F. as I concluded it to be; a way had been open'd into it, but every 
 thing now is almoft ruin'd. I faw in it two handfome high door places 
 oppofite to one another, the fpace between them being only five feet j 
 over them are hieroglyphics, among which I faw the Ibis and flags. Op- 
 pofite to this pyramid, on the other fide of the valley to the fouth, is 
 fuch another K. which feem'd to have been built with fteps, and eaft of 
 
 * Ante has eft fphynx, vel magis miranda, Myaccount makes the fphynx one hundred and 
 
 quafi fylveftre numen accolentium. Amafin re- thirty feet long, that is about feventeen feet more 
 
 gem putant in ea condittim, et volunt invedtam than Pliny. He fays it was fixry-three feet high, 
 
 videri. Eft autem faxo naturali elaborata et lubrica. probably taking in a plinth that might be cut out 
 
 Capitis monftri ambitus per frontem centum duos under it ; fo that about thirty- fix feet muft be bu- 
 
 pedes colligit, longitudo pedum cxm. eft, al- ried in the land, 
 titudo a ventre ad fummum apicem in capite 
 txni. Plin. Nat. Hifi. 1. xxxvi. c. 12. 
 
 it 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 it is another L. erected on a foundation of rock, fifteen feet high ; it 
 feem'd to have been built up higher only with a thick wall about a hun- 
 dred and fifty feet fquare. The firft of thefe pyramids, from the defcrip- 
 tion of Herodotus \ feems to be that which he imagined was built by the 
 daughter of Cheops, who proftituted herfelf in obedience to her father. 
 The grand way up to the fecond pyramid, as has been obferved, feems 
 to have been from the fphynx, and turning there to the right and left, it 
 might join two ways coming from the weft : What I took for the foun- 
 dation of a wall, might be fome remains of that to the north; the way 
 towards the fouth is a caufeway made of great ftones eleven paces wide, 
 and leading up to the temple M. which is before the third pyramid N. 
 The ftones employ 'd in building the temple are fix feet broad and deep, 
 which is the thicknefs of the walls; and moft of them are fixteen or 
 feventeen feet long, and fome twenty-two, as is reprefented in the fame 
 plate, the whole building being a hundred and fixty feet deep, and a 
 hundred and eighty in front. To the eaft of it is the third pyramid N. 
 faid to be built by Mycerinus. Herodotus " fpeaks of it as three hundred 
 feet fquare ; I meafured it at the top fourteen feet on the north fide, and 
 twelve on the eaft, and counting feventy-eight fteps, at one foot nine 
 inches broad, it amounts to about this number of feet. Our author af- 
 firms that it was built half way up with Ethiopian marble, that is cafed 
 with it ; Diodorus mentions fifteen tier, fo that computing each tier on 
 the outfide to be five feet deep, as I found them, that will amount to 
 feventy-five feet, which anfwers within fix feet of the height, com- 
 puted at one hundred fifty-fix feet, fuppofing the fteps to be two feet 
 high. On this account Strabo fays it was as expenfive a work as the 
 others; all round it are remains of the granite it was adorn'd with, which 
 has been pull'd down, and great part of it carried away : I faw however 
 two ftones remaining in their places, about five feet deep. To the fouth 
 of this are three fmall pyramids O. the two weftern ones are about eighty- 
 feven feet fquare ; they are built with three degrees ten feet broad, each 
 of them confifting of three tier of ftone four or five feet deep, that fet 
 out about a foot, as reprefented in an upright of one of them O. In the 
 fame plate at P. the eaftern pyramid is a hundred feet fquare, being what 
 is commonly call'd the fourth pyramid. 
 
 Thefe feem to be the three pyramids mention'd by Diodorus immedi- 
 ately after the third, as built for the wives of the three Kings, the fuccef- 
 fors of Mycerinus. I cannot but mention a conjecture that has alfo been 
 
 y 'E; tSto <Te iA9iTu Xsotos kkkotJ&, wVe -n:* &u- 
 ya'iegt TIJI swvtJ, ;y£tjjWflCTfdv (Ffouevav, x«TiVav7oe 171 
 ity.r^a}®'-, ttfgGra'lat ar^ij&TEcS-flo* &"yv&G1 c'jcocroi' St Ti" 
 ii J/«3 <?« TSTCi'j/E EA£J<0V. TflvJs, TOO TE U/TO T8 nrofjooj 
 Tee^Eilas wgr,ost£rx*' Ufa SI k) «^TJ|W Jiwo*i3iivx* 
 pvKfostruvav xoLlaKiirit&OA' Kj ts? Emon^* sr^oc cwi*i u 
 
 SKKfl? Sii&OU OKWf «V OwVij tUt Jt&dV 60 TOlW EOyOlO"! 
 OOJ^SOllo* £K TSiTWV l?£ TW11 hl^UV tQizrciV STUf^tAlJiS 
 
 oV-a^ii^i-aw, t>;v h fitew tojv T&iwf EfSfljcijoiv, £/47roo- 
 c&EV Tljo ftEJ-MAtj; w&y.iS®' Tt-f TO kwAov txocsov oAtf 
 
 kj i/ijn& aA&fir. Herodotus 1. ii. c. 126. 
 
 1 nu£yui3a <Je k, ii®- «VeAi'se1o EffoAAoV eA«'oo-£o 
 iS ualfof, EEijtOffj aroefwv xdlalixo-ctv, xwAov txusov 
 T£>OJV IStAE^OJV EXff^f Ttl^tyovH' h&il EC TO jj^/ffW 
 
 'Ai$ia?n*x. Herodotus 1. ii. c. 134. 
 
 Alf 0T££OJ (T Berjv £0 XJ^iH t^Ol'^OVI T?C OgetWtf >J T&tTtJ 
 
 jffoAv eAootIwl' too7u tfvoiV, aroAu dl pet£av(&' Jaaroevij? 
 
 XxllGMVUG-pii'/il' CX7T0 ydg $£^£A(£0V fliCX tfcdov, 
 
 •tihU"©* Ai'3s hh, s£ k n) rais Svix; xos7a[rx£uocTi'£«[ri 
 xo^ovIec zjsfp-cSlv «7To tojv T>)f Al&l07n«c OgWV, Of TOJ 
 trxAEifJoc eiifa* Jvcy.dtgyu7&y sroAolEAfl rm u^y- 
 
 ]wo!th«v sr«e/£^E. Strabo I. xvii. p. 808. 
 
 HvgJiplSx XT®* ^'E7rlGolAo'^EV© J T^Tflll KxIcifflCtV- 
 OO^OIV, WfOTE^OV ETEAEOTfjTEV ^JTEP TO S^yoV eAoo£e (TUV- 
 TEA««V T>if jj.h yug /30CO-£0Jf EX0(?»tV EtfAEU^V uVe^ Ytfa\o 
 
 arAtS-geou Tg/iooii, vis £i toi'^s? ejt) ^^ixcuhnct ^pcist 
 y.alEo-xEuacrEt ex tt£Aoio!t^. Ai^S) T(u QtjQixiKM vstngynXwU, 
 
 Diodorus 1. 1. p, 5S. 
 
 made 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 made by others, which will make the labour that was beftow'd on the 
 pyramids much lefs than is imagined ; and that is, that they might take 
 the advantage of building round a hill when they begun a pyramid; and 
 if this is probable, the great pyramid might be built about two rocky 
 hills ; the prefent entrance probably on the top of one, and the grand 
 room which has the tomb in it on the top of the other ; and the paffage 
 and room under, might be cut out on the fide of the hill, tho' at fome 
 diftance from the outfide of it ; which is the more probable, if we fup- 
 pofe, as I fhall after obferve, that the firft invention of pyramids might 
 be owing to the cafing of fmall hills with flone. I went twice to thefe 
 famous monuments, and I enter'd as often into the great pyramid. The 
 firft time I was in company with fome Englifh and French, and attended 
 by the Caimacam, or governor of Gizeh. They had fent out great 
 plenty of provifions, and I could not but take particular notice of the 
 leflbn of hofpitality the governor taught them, by diftributing about to 
 all the Arabs of the good fare they had brought, even before he had ferved 
 himfelf. The fecond time I went out was with the conful, and moft of 
 the Englifh, when we went round by the bridges, and faw a great num- 
 ber of wild fowl all over the waters. We pitch'd a tent in the plain, 
 about half a mile to the north of the pyramids ; the people of the neigh- 
 bouring village came and fat round, and had contrived to take away a gar- 
 ment that belong'd to us, and carried it to their village ; but when it 
 was miffing, and we threatned to make complaint to their landlord, who 
 was one of the Beys, if they did not go to the village in fearch of it, and 
 return it, they went off and brought it back. It was this fecond time 
 that I went alone down to the bottom of the firft well in the pyramid, 
 having prepared a lanthorn to let down to the bottom of each well, that 
 I might fee how far I had to defcend ; but none of the Arabs would go 
 down with me. The method of defcending is by the holes in the fide 
 to fet the feet in, which were much broken ; fo that 'twas very difficult, 
 being obliged to reft much on the arms. I fliould however have cer- 
 tainly gone down as far as I could, even alone, if I had not been in- 
 difpofed by a caufe fo far diftant as drinking the waters of Aleppo half 
 a year before; of which I fhall have occafion to fay more in another 
 place. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the Catacombs and Pyramids of Saccara. 
 
 TH O' the pyramids and catacombs of Saccara are not ten miles from 
 thofe of Gizeh, yet the common way is to go from Cairo for five 
 miles along the eaft fide of the river, to the convent of St. George, where 
 croffing the Nile, the road pafles by Mocanan and Metrahenny ; the laft 
 place is three or four miles from Saccara. Between Metrahenny and Sac- 
 cara, I paffed over a canal on a large bridge of four arches; this is called 
 the weftern canal. 
 
 It 
 
O N E G Y P T. 49 
 
 It was on my return from Faiume that I went to Saccara, going out of 
 the dire£t road to Cairo, foon after we had paffed the fandy deferts ; and 
 travelling about five miles north weft, we came to Dafhour, where there Daftour. 
 is a cane, in which there are public harlots, who are profefTed Mahome- 
 tans, as I was inform'd they are alfo in many other parts. Thefe wo- 
 men are always unveil'd ; and knowing that we were Europeans, they 
 came and ftared at us, and were very impudent, infomuch that my fcr- 
 vant was obliged to drive them away. From this place we travelled a- 
 long by the weftern canal, and after two miles we came to a village 
 call'd Elmenfhieh Dafhour, being oppofite to the great pyramid to the 
 fouth ; the pyramid built of brick being in a line with Dafhour. We foon 
 after came to the fandy defert, having the large canal to the eaft of us ; 
 we after paffed between the melon gardens, and came to a wood of 
 Acacia trees, which extends about a mile north to the groves of palm trees 
 that are near Saccara, which is a poor village at the foot of the hills. Saccara. 
 Having letters of recommendation, I went to the houfe of the Sheik, who 
 according to cuftom, fet of their fare before us, and promifed after he 
 had been at the moftjue at noon, it being friday, to go with me to the 
 pyramids that were near. Accordingly we went half a mile to the fouth, 
 there being a fmall lake on that part of the town. We came to a caufe- 
 way made of great ftones thirty-five feet wide, leading weftward up the 
 hills ; it is mark'd S. in the eighteenth plate. This day and the two fol- 
 lowing I made the obfervations, in which I am the more exad>, as few 
 perfons have delcribed any thing particularly here except the catacombs. 
 The afcent is fhort to a fandy plain, that may extend four or five miles to 
 higher hills. I have given a view of the plain, and a plan of the pyra- 
 mids in the eighteenth plate. The pyramids are built from north to fouth Pyramids of 
 along the brow of the hill, extending from the three northern ones C. Saccara - 
 which are three or four miles from Saccara, for eight or nine miles to the 
 lbuth. About half a mile eaft of the pyramid F. that appears at a di- 
 ftance to be built with great fteps, is a little defccnt to a fort of a round 
 plain T. with a rifing in the middle; bones and (kulls are feen almoft all 
 over this fpot, under which are the catacombs of the mummies, extend- 
 ing near to this pyramid, the whole country being a rocky foil, cover'd 
 over with fand five or fix feet deep. About half a mile to the north of 
 the fame pyramid, are the catacombs of the birds B. In this part I found 
 about the fands many of thofe little earthen ftatues of Oliris, that are 
 cover'd with a fort of green enamel or paint. I faw here feveral heaps of 
 ruins, and a fort of foffee which goes all round to the fouth of Saccara $ 
 fo that probably this place was formerly enclofed. 
 
 The three pyramids C. are three or four miles further to the north ; 
 they feem to be about the fize of the third pyramid of Gize, and are on 
 a height extending rather more to the eaft than the other hills. As 
 there is nothing remarkable in them, fo travellers never go to them. Be- 
 tween thefe pyramids and thofe of Gize, the hills retire and make a fort 
 of a femicircle. Here I imagined I faw feveral ruins, and poffibly this 
 might be the part of Memphis that extended up to the defert. To the 
 fouth eaft of thefe catacombs of the birds, I faw the ruin'd pyramid D. 
 about fixty feet fquare ; and further fouth, fome fquare monuments E. 
 that might have been fmall pyramids. Near thefe is the pyramid F. call'd 
 
 Vol. I. O by 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 by the Arabs the pyramid with fteps. I omitted to meafiire it any other- 
 wife than by paces ", by which I computed the meafure to be three hun- 
 dred feet to the north, and two hundred feventy-five to the eaft ; and I 
 found that moft of thefe pyramids are broader one way than the other. 
 This is a hundred and fifty feet high, confifting of fix fteps or degrees, 
 eleven feet broad, and twenty-five feet deep in the perpendicular, being, I 
 fuppofe, thirty-five in the inclined plain on fome of the fides, as I find I 
 meafured it in fome parts ; for the front of the degrees is an inclined plain. 
 As it is much ruin'd at the angles, I afcended at the north eaft angle, 
 and defcended by the north weft ; it meafured at top twenty-two feet fix 
 inches to the eaft, and fifty feet fix inches to the north, which muft be 
 accounted for by its inclining with a different angle one way from what it 
 does the other. The outfide cafing is of hewn ftone, twenty tier to each 
 degree, each tier being one foot three inches deep. The building within 
 is of fmall thin ftones, and the yellow gravelly mortar is fix inches thick 
 between them. There are two holes broken in on the fouth fide, as re- 
 prefented in the nineteenth plate at F. On the fame fide, three quarters 
 of the lower degree is broken away, and on the north fide the loweft 
 degree is intirely gone ; and on the eaft fide the ground is rifen up to the 
 height of the firft degree. Near this pyramid I faw many pieces of a fort 
 of red and yellow marble. 
 
 The pyramid G. in the eighteenth plate, to the fouth weft, appears round 
 at top; and there are three or four built in the fame manner towards the firft 
 entrance on the hills from the caufeway ; one of them H. meafured a hun- 
 dred feet to the eaft and weft, and eighty to the north and fouth ; another 
 I. is of the fame dimenfions one way, and only ninety feet wide on the 
 eaft fide. This latter has fome great ftones remaining towards the top, 
 but there are none about the other; this as well as lbme others, feems to 
 have been fill'd up in the middle with fmall ftones and fand ; on each 
 fide the entrance are two fmaller, K L : Thefe latter do not look like py- 
 ramids, but more like hillocks cafed with ftone ; fo that it is probable 
 either that the original of pyramids was owing to the cafing with ftone fuch 
 raifed grounds that they threw up in memory of their dead, or that thefe 
 hillocks in the northern parts, were a barbarous imitation of pyramids; 
 and as in Syria there are fome not very fmall cafed with ftone, that at 
 prefent have caftles built on them, it is poflible they might firft have 
 been made in honour of fome great men, and afterwards be converted 
 to another ufe. Going near two miles to the fouth, and eroding over a 
 little height which runs from eaft to weft, we came to the imperfect 
 pyramid N. call'd Muftabait-el-Pharaone, or the feat of Pharaoh, on 
 which the Arabs fay the Kings of Egypt promulged their laws ; it is 
 two hundred feventy-three feet wide to the north, and two hundred and 
 eight to the eaft ; at prefent it is forty-fix feet high, all the fteps fetting 
 in a foot, except the third from the bottom, which fets in ten feet ; it is 
 built of large mouldering ftones, full of fhells, they are feven feet long, 
 and of the fame depth as the fteps, that is, four feet fix inches ; a view 
 
 3 Tho' I was guilty of a great omifiion in not an account of thefe imperfect obfervations, in the 
 being more exa£t in thefe meafures, as well as manner I made them, than to pats them over in 
 fome others, in relation to which I mail always filence, that others may be induced hereafter to 
 mention in what manner I took the meafures, if give a more exact account. 
 I was not exaft ; yet I thought it better to give 
 
 of 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 of it may be feen in the nineteenth plate G. To the weft north weft of it 
 there is a fmall raifed pyramid G. in the eighteenth plate, being about two 
 hundred feet fquare: Near weft of it is the ruin'd pyramid O. From this 
 place we went two miles to the great pyramid P. call'd Il-Herem-Elkebere- 
 El-Barieh, the great pyramid to the north. As there are heaps of ftone round 
 the pyramid that has fcaled off, and I had no inftruments to take the level, 
 fo I was obliged to meafure the pyramid at a diftance, by beginning oppo- 
 fite to the angles, which muft be acknowledged not to be lb certain ; 
 but in this manner I meafured feven hundred and ten feet to the north, 
 and fix hundred and ninety to the eaft; but pacing it, the meafure came 
 out on the north fide only fix hundred fixty-two feet and a half, fo that 
 poffibly there might be fome miftake ; tho' the north fide meafured on the 
 top twenty feet, and the eaft fide only fifteen ; which inclines me to 
 think that the meafure I took is pretty exact, that makes the north fide 
 the broader. There are a hundred and fifty-fix fteps from three to two 
 feet high ; the lower fteps being about three feet, the others moftly two, 
 and about two feet broad. By the quadrant I found it to be about three 
 hundred forty-five feet high, which would be the height at a middle com- 
 putation of two feet four inches to each ftep. The pyramid by the mea- 
 fure at top, fecms to incline with a more acute angle to the north and 
 fouth, than it does to the eaft and weft, where the fteps may be broader, 
 fo that this pyramid is probably as big as the great one at Gize ; for com- 
 puting the fteps to be only two feet broad, tho' I fuppofe fome of them 
 muft be more to the eaft and weft, the north fide will be fix hundred 
 forty-four feet, according to this computation : And a traveller who feems 
 to mean this pyramid, which he calls the pyramid of Rhodope, and the 
 largeft of the fifteen this way, probably took his meafures by computing 
 the fteps, who fays it is fix hundred forty-two feet (quare, and three hun- 
 dred twenty-feven high, and mentions a hundred and forty-eight fteps ,- 
 but as thefe are French feet, it may bring the meafures pretty near to thole 
 I have given. The ftones of the cafing are fix feet long, and fo project 
 about four feet. Thefe ftones I found to be two feet ten inches in the 
 inclined plain, where they were two feet fix inches thick. 
 
 It is to be obferved that the fteps of the fecond pyramid of Gize being 
 fill'd up, as reprefented in the fixteenth plate, that manner of finifhing 
 the work was moft convenient, as they begun it at top; but as they might 
 after find it more commodious to begin the cafing at bottom, this method 
 of laying the ftone, fo as to project four feet beyond the fteps, might be 
 judged a more proper way, both as it made a larger platform to work on, 
 and to raife the materials, and alfo as the ftones laid in this manner would 
 more effectually bind one another. 
 
 This pyramid is built of the lame freeftone as the others, but cafed 
 with a fine hard ftone, the outward cover remaining in feveral parts, as 
 appears in the views in the nineteenth plate. A. is the weft fide, B. the 
 eaft, C. the north ; the ground is raifed much on the north fide, and alfo 
 on the eaft, but leaft of all on the weft. At fome diftance to the fouth 
 and weft the ground is hollow, as it is to the north and weft of the great 
 pyramid fouth of it ; out of thefe places, they probably dug the ftone to 
 build the pyramids. 
 
 On 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 On the north fide, about a third of the way up, is an entrance three 
 feet five inches wide, and four feet two inches deep ; the ftones within 
 are of the height and breadth of the entrance, and about five feet long. 
 I went into the pyramid by this paffage, which is fteep, and has holes cut 
 as refts for the feet. It was with great difficulty we made our way for 
 the laft twenty-five feet, the paffage being almoft fill'd up with fand. 
 At the end I came into a room twenty-two feet and a half long, and 
 eleven feet ten inches broad ; at the height of ten feet fix inches, a tier 
 of ftones fet in on each fide five inches, and in the fame manner twelve 
 tiers one over another; fo as that the top either ends in a point, or as I ra- 
 ther conjecture, it may be about a foot broad : To the weft of this room is 
 fuch another ; and in both at the further end, in the middle of the fifth 
 and fixth tiers of ftone from the top, is a door, each of which leads to a 
 fmall room, as I was inform'd by a gentleman who contrived a ladder in 
 order to get up to them. Thefe rooms are of a fmooth white ftone ; and 
 nothing can be imagined finer than the workmanfhip of them, being all 
 of large ftone. There are only feven in length, and three or four in 
 width. At the joining of the ftones, there is a little channel half an 
 inch broad, making an angle like the members of a trigliph in the Do- 
 ric order : The plan D. and a feftion of them E. may be feen in the 
 twentieth plate. About a mile to the fouth eaft is another great pyramid 
 call'd, The great pyramid to the fouth, (Il-Herem-El-Kieber-El-Koubli) 
 which is lefs than the other : Meafuring it as I did the other, I found it 
 was on the north fide five hundred and ninety feet wide, on the eaft fix 
 hundred ; and pacing it, the meafure on this fide came out exactly the 
 fame, and on the north fix hundred and five feet ; fo that it is probable 
 this pyramid is fix hundred feet fquare j and the height of it is three hun- 
 dred and thirty-five feet. What is very particular, it feems to incline 
 with a greater angle from the height of two hundred and eighty feet than 
 it does below ; for this pyramid feems to have been cafed all the way up, 
 and is built of very good hewn ftone even within, as I obferved in fome 
 places where it is broke away ; for it is ruin'd in many parts, but not fo 
 as that any one can go up to the top. The lower parts are much deftroy'd 
 on all fides, and yet it would be very difficult and dangerous to go up to 
 a hole that feems to lead to a paffage that is not open, which is at the 
 height of twelve tier from the ground ; and I obferved that under this 
 hole the ftones do not lie horizontally. The outer ftcnes are moftly 
 three feet fix inches long, two feet four inches thick, and two feet fix in 
 the inclined plain; the fteps are two feet broad, and the ftones laid ori 
 them, which are two feet wide, project beyond the fteps four feet fix 
 inches, and confequently make the pyramid every way nine feet wider 
 than it was before it was cafed. Where I obferved the pyramid appear'd 
 as built with a different inclination above, the ftones fcem to have fcaled, 
 to be much ruin'd and loofe ; and I do not think that I could be fo far 
 deceived, as not to perceive that the difference was caufed only by that 
 upper part not being cafed with ftone as the reft. The lower part is very 
 entire, except towards the bottom, as mark'd in the twentieth plate, where 
 it feems to have been purpofely broke, and the ftones carried away. F. 
 is the north fide, G. the fouth, H. the weft, and I. the eaft fide. The 
 north fide is the moft entire, and the ground is not fo much raifed as on 
 
 the 
 
ON EGYPT. $5 
 
 the other fides. To the eaft north eaft of this is a ruin'd pyramid t. A- 
 bout one hundred fevenry feet one way, and two hundred and ten ano- 
 ther. 
 
 About two miles to the eaft of the laft great pyramid, on lower ground, 
 and near the eaft edge of the mountain, is the pyramid R. built of un- 
 burnt brick, call'd Ktoube-El-Menfhieh (the bricks of Menfhieh) from a 
 village near call'd Menfhieh Dafhour. It was doubtlefs built near the 
 plain on account of the brick, which feems to be made of the earth 
 brought by the Nile, being of a fandy black earth, with fome pebbles and 
 fliells in it ; it is mix'd up with chopped ftraw, in order to bind the clay 
 together, as they now make unburnt bricks in Egypt, and many other 
 eaftern parts, which they ufe very much in their buildings. I found fome 
 of thefe bricks thirteen inches and a half long, fix inches and a half broad, 
 and four inches thick ; and others fifteen inches long, feven broad, and 
 four inches and three quarters thick. I obferved on the north fide the 
 bricks were laid lengthways from north to fouth, but not every where in 
 that direction ; however, I particularly took notice that they were not laid 
 fo as to bind one another. It is much crumbled and ruin'd ; but as it is, 
 1 meafured it, and found it to be one hundred fifty-feven feet on the 
 north fide, and two hundred and ten on the weft fide, it being much 
 broke away on the eaft and weft fides, for at top it meafured forty- 
 three feet by thirty-five ; it is a hundred and fifty feet high. By what I 
 could judge from the prefent fhape of it, I concluded that it was built 
 with five degrees, like the pyramid at Saccara, each being about ten feet 
 broad, and thirty deep ; fo that the afcent to it is eafy, as the bricks are 
 crumbled away. As there is gravel and fliells in the bricks, it is not pro- 
 bable that this is the pyramid built by that extravagant King Afychis, 
 with the mud that ftuck to the plummets, which were often thrown into 
 a lake for that purpofe b . 
 
 Another day I went to fee the catacombs, and was firft conduded to Catacombs, 
 thofe of the mummies in the eighteenth plate A. to one a little fouth of 
 the pyramid of fteps. The entrance to it is by a well A. in the nine- 
 teenth plate, about four feet fquare, and twenty feet deep, cut through 
 the flaty rock, which has a mixture of talc in it; the upper part is fand, 
 which is often moved by the wind, and fills up the holes. I obferved 
 fome of thefe wells were cafed with unburnt brick at the top, as far as 
 the depth of the fand, which by the fize of them I imagined to be an- 
 tient. The ufual method of letting people down by ropes is very pain- 
 ful ; but I brought with me a ladder made of ropes, by which I defcended 
 more conveniently, tho' not without being much incommoded by rhe 
 fand which falls down from the top. I obferved that there were holes on 
 each fide to defcend by, as in the wells of the pyramid, and thofe of the 
 citterns of Alexandria ; but they feem here to be moftly wore away, fo as 
 to be of no ufe. The way is then by a paffage B. five feet wide and about 
 fifty feet long, which is almoft fill'd up with fand. I then came to a paffage 
 
 b TxtfiatXt&cu Si fitsKoptw tStov tov @maU Ta; TON, OSON O ZETETON AAAftN ©EHN - KON- 
 
 sa-goTegov kuviS (iaeihizs yfvo^svHf 'AtyvVls, pvtijUoVu- Til TAP TITOTTnTONTES EZ AIMNHN, O, TI 
 
 vov v>v£?pt$* AiTrto&o* in etAi'v&wv aioit-ffav?* - i v T iJ nPOSXOITO TOT nHAOT TX1 KONTil, TOTTO 
 
 ygjppalai i» A.'flu IkficoAappsva T«'Js Aej-out* iff** XTAAETONTE2, nAINOOTS EIPTZAN 1CAI ME 
 
 MH ME KATANO0HS E1POS TAS AI0INAE TPOnn TOIOTTil ESEnOIHSAN. Herodotus 1. ii. 
 
 ntPAMIAAE nPOEXfi TAP ATTEilN TOZOT- c. 136. 
 
 Vol. I. p of 
 
4 < 
 
 54 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of the fame fize, and about fix feet high ; on one fide were the apart- 
 ments C. with benches X. about two feet above the paflages D. On 
 thefe I fuppofe they laid the mummies ; and if they fet them upright, 
 they muft have had fome way of fupporting them. On the other fide are 
 the narrow cells E. juft big enough to receive a large coffin. About two 
 feet from the ground, in the middle of them, the rock fets out for about 
 half a foot diameter, as reprefented in the plan. This I imagined might 
 be to lay a coffin on, and there might be another placed on the ground. 
 From this alley we went to another narrower, on each fide of which were 
 niches, as reprefented at F. which feem'd to be defign'd to fet coffins in 
 upright. From thefe paflages there are cut oblong fquare apartments 
 G. which are full of the remains of mummies ; and probably here the 
 inferior perfons of a family were depofited, piled up one on another ; as we 
 may fuppofe the heads of the family were fet upright in the niches, which 
 appear to have been wall'd up, as well as all the other apartments ; and 
 fometimes walls were built acrofs the paflages. It is probable each family 
 originally had its burial place, and as the family increafed, they branched 
 out thefe lepulchral grotts, fo as that every defcendant might have a place 
 apart for his family. I faw feveral of the fwathes lying about, and fome 
 remaining almoft entire, only the bodies taken out from the middle for 
 the fake of the mummy, and to fearch if they could find any thing in 
 them. I obferved fome of the bodies had been done up in palm boughs, 
 which were tied together at each end ; fome of thefe appear'd like rufhes, 
 probably being rotten ; others I faw, had been tied up in thefe fine reeds 
 with which the Eafterns write. Thefe probably were people of better con- 
 dition than the others, as coffins was an expence that all could not be at, 
 and thofe who could afford coffins made of plank, might not be able to rife 
 to the price of fuch as were hollowed out of one piece of timber, in the 
 fhape of a mummy, and finely painted according to the expence they 
 would be at. I faw alfo many fkulls here, as well as on the plain be- 
 yond ; many of which probably had been rifled of the bitumen or bal- 
 fam that was in them, when that fort of medicine was formerly much 
 more in ufe than it is at prefent. I faw alfo feveral large earthen vales, 
 of which a draught may be feen in the twenty- firft plate, which repre- 
 fents a mummy 1 fent from Egypt. In them was a black fat earth, which 
 made me imagine that the bowels might be preferved in them. 
 Catacombs I went half a mile north of the pyramid with fteps, to the catacomb 
 of birds. o £ t j je | 3 j r( j s q call'd the well or pit of the birds, to which the entrance 
 is the fame as of the other at A. excepting that it is about thirty feet deep ; 
 the paffage from it is almoft full of fand, and about eight feet wide, as all 
 the other paflages are. Thefe catacombs are much more magnificent 
 than the others, being the fepulchres of thofe birds and other animals 
 they worfhipped ; for when they happen'd to find them dead, they em- 
 balm'd them, and wrapped them up with the fame care as they did human 
 bodies, and depofited them in earthen vafes cover 'd over and flopped 
 clofe with mortar, as defcribed in the laft book: A plan of the catacombs 
 is reprefented in the nineteenth plate ; and the front of one of the apart- 
 ments is fhewn at C. as it is fill'd with thofe vafes. 
 
 In one of the irregular apartments I faw feveral larger jarrs, which 
 might be for dogs and other animals; of which fome have been found, 
 
 but 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 but are now very rare. Concerning the manner of embalming thefe ani- 
 mals, as well as human bodies, I mall give a more particular account in 
 the laft book. 
 
 Returning from vifiting the catacombs fooner than was expected, when 
 I unlock'd the door of the room the Sheik had put me into at his houfe, 
 a little girl about eight years old run out of the room againft me ; lay- 
 ing hold of her, fhe cried out, but I had prefence of mind enough to 
 let her go, it being a great affront in thefe countries for any one to lay 
 hands on the fair fex ; and difcovering any roguery (which 1 immediate- 
 ly apprehended) would have caufed an embroil in the family, had the 
 Sheik taken my part or not. As foon as I came into the room, I faw a 
 hole had been broke thro' the ceiling, tho' the room was ten feet high, 
 and as I fuppofed, the mother had let the child down by a rope to rifle 
 my baggage, and convey what they thought proper up the fame way 
 fhe came down. As it happen'd I caught them at the beginning, and 
 little was loft; tho' doubtlefs they thought they fhould find treafures, as 
 they imagine the Franks, as they call all Europeans, abound in money. I 
 was a little chagrined at this treatment, but thought it the moil prudent 
 way to take no notice of it, and to remain under the protection of the 
 Sheik, tho' I could have gone away with the governour of Gize, who 
 happen'd to be there, which might have caufed a jealoufy between them ; 
 fo I ftaid till the next morning, when the Sheik fent a man to conduct 
 me to Grand Cairo. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of Faiume the old Arsinoe, the Labyrinth, 
 and the Lake M M r i s. 
 
 TH E Caravans go once a week from Cairo to Faiume, but as the 
 Cafhif or governor of that province, was to fet out for this place, 
 it was thought 1 fhould go more conveniendy in his company ; 
 fo being recommended to him, I join'd him fome time before our depar- 
 ture at old Cairo, at the houfe of Ofman Bey, whofe creature and flave 
 he had been. I had a room affign'd me there, and the Cafhif invited 
 me to fup with him ; I had brought fome fpirituous liquors with me to 
 prefent to him, with which I took care he fhould be fupplied at fupper, 
 and he proved to be a cheerful merry man, feeming to be about five 
 and thirty years old. In the morning I fet out with him, and we 
 went to the fouth of old Cairo, and palled by the mofque call'd Saranebi, 
 becaufe they fay a print of Mahomet's foot is there ; as they pretend 
 likewiie at a mofque near Damafcus. Beyond it we paffcd by a village 
 call'd Dertin, and came to St. George's convent, about five miles from, 
 old Cairo; it is uninhabited, but the priefts go out there to officiate on 
 fundays and holidays. Here we eroded the river, and going on, we 
 came to the large village of Mocanan, with fine plantations of palm- 
 trees about it, and heaps of rubbifh to the north of it. About two miles 
 further to the fouth weft, we arrived at Metrahenny ; about this place 
 
 alfo 
 
 5 
 
OBSERV ATI ONS 
 
 alfo I obferved feveral heaps, and a mound extending a mile north and 
 fouth, and then north weft towards the pyramids that are near Saccara. 
 This, I conjecture, might be a rampart thrown up to defend the antient 
 city of Memphis ; and this I fuppofe was the bank on which I came from 
 Saccara. South of Metrahenny we paffed over a canal called Calig-El- 
 Eheram, or the canal of the pyramids, which communicates with feveral 
 fmall canals that were dry in the month of February. We flopped a 
 while, and I had my carpet laid at a diftance ; but the Cafhif invited 
 me to him, and I partook of their collation of bread, raw onions, and a 
 fort of fait pickled cheefe. We went on and came to the canal of Dafhour, 
 which we paffed on a large bridge of ftone with four arches. This I 
 take to be the weftern canal mention'd in the way to Saccara. We pur- 
 fued our journey moftly by the canal, and came near to the hills to the 
 fouth at Baderifhihe, to the eaft of the canal. Tho' the greater part of 
 thefe hills may be natural, yet I fuppofe that the Nile formerly running 
 more to the weft, a mound was thrown up where it ufually flow'd, to 
 turn its courfe, according to the account of Herodotus ; but that a canal 
 was brought in lower, and join'd the antient bed of the Nile further to 
 the north weft, in order to water the country. We paffed the night there 
 in a grove of palm-trees ; the Cafhif fent to me to come to him, and I 
 prefented him with the liquor I brought for him, and fat with him for 
 fome time ; but a great Sheik coming to him, I retired to my own place, 
 and the Cafhif fent me of his fupper, which was prepared for him by the 
 village on the other fide. The next day we went on, and afcended the 
 low fandy hills to the fouth weft, which abound in the Egyptian pebble ; 
 the road was after through an uneven fandy defert, and we came to a vale 
 bounded to the north by low hills that are made up entirely of oyfter 
 fhells, with a very little red clay or earth between. I faw alfo much of 
 that talc which is call'd Trichites ; the oyfter fhells are large, and thofe 
 at the top are dry, and not changed in their quality, but many of thofe 
 below and on the plain are petrified. We afcended another fmall height, 
 and crofting a large fandy plain, we came to a Sheik's tomb, and a wa- 
 tering place on a rifing ground, and by a long defcent arrived at Tamiea, 
 at the end of the defert, where a canal comes from the Nile, and runs 
 into the lake Maris. This canal was very low, and had little water in 
 it ; the mouth of it at the Nile, as I was inform'd, being almoft fill'd up 
 with a bank of fand ; fo that at Tamiea they have made a refervoir with 
 ftrong brick walls above the canal, being a fort of a pond about half a mile 
 round, to which the water is brought by a fmaller canal, that higher up 
 branches out from a great one. Here the water is kept up for the ufe of 
 the village, and to be convey'd to the high lands by two canals ; but when 
 the bafin is full, and they have no need to draw it off, the water runs 
 over in three fheets at the weft end, and fo falls into the great canal f. 
 Having well confider'd this great work, we went on through a large fandy 
 plain, having improved land to the weft that is very poor, and producing 
 bad crops, the corn being only fown, or coming up along by the furrows, 
 
 •f Strabo has an expreflion for continuing the wa- diftributed it out all over the country ; and it is 
 ter in this manner ; Tuy.itv£ei, and 'tis probable not unlikely that the village of Tamiea has its 
 they called the head of water itfelf T»fii«'a, that name from this, 
 is, the place where they kept up the water, and 
 
 where 
 
. 4Uy*ie Temple ^vjfe labyrinth. . 
 
O N E G Y P T. 57 
 
 where it has the benefit of the little water they can bring to it. The Arabs 
 who came out to meet the Cafhif, exercifed themfelves all the way on 
 horfeback, by running after one another with the pike, in the uiual way : 
 When one has an advantage over another he engages, he turns fhort and 
 rides away, the other purfuing him till he finds an opportunity to ftrike, 
 and then he runs off in the fame manner. 
 
 We came to the large village of Sennours, and went to the hqufe of the Sennours, 
 governor of the place, where a great fupper was prepared for the Cafhif,- 
 a coarfe brown woollen cloth being fpread near the whole length of the 
 room, a heap of bread in cakes was laid all round it, and about ten 
 difhes repeated fix or feven times over were placed along the whole length 
 of the room ; as pilaw, a fmall fheep boiled whole, a lamb roafted in 
 the fame manner, roaft fowls, many difhes of ftew'd meat in foup, fweet 
 flummery, cabobs, or meat roafted in fmall pieces, that may be eat with- 
 out dividing, and the like. The Cafhif fat at the head of the table, and 
 all the great people fat down with him : I might have put myfelf in a- 
 mongft them, but being determined not to do any thing without direction, 
 I kept my feat on the fopha, and when the perfon got up at the right hand 
 of the Cafhif, the Cafhif call'd to me to take his place, and fhew'd me 
 great civility ; which was more honourable than if I had placed myfelf 
 lower at the table. The cuftom is for every one to get up as foon as he 
 has done, warn his hands, and take a draught of water; and fo there is a 
 continual fucceffion, till at laft the poor come in and eat up all; for it is 
 a cuftom with the Arabs never to fet by any thing that comes to the 
 table, fo that when they kill a fheep, they drefs it all, call in their neigh- 
 bours and the poor to finifh every thing, and afterwards live on bread, and 
 their other mean fare. In the morning we had a very grand collation laid 
 in the fame manner, confiding of the beft fort of bread, made with but- 
 ter, fried eggs, honey, green fait cheefe, olives, and feveral other fmall 
 things. 
 
 We were here in the fruitful province of Arfinoe, which is faid to Province of 
 have been the moft beautiful fpot in all Egypt *, being the only part Arfinoe ' 
 of it that produced naturally the olive, which was cultivated by art in 
 the gardens of Alexandria. Here with care, they could make excellent 
 oyl ; but negle&ing the bufinefs, they made only an ill-favour'd oyl, pro- 
 bably by letting the olives hang too long, in order to make a greater 
 quantity; it alio produced wine, great plenty of corn and pulfe, and 
 whatever they pleafed to fow. We purfued our journey, and came to 
 Baiamout, where there certainly has been fome confiderable antient city Baiamout, 
 or buildings, it may be, fome place dependant on Arfinoe, which was 
 near. There are particularly to the north of the village, ruins on each 
 fide of the road, which I found to be of two pyramids, as reprefented Pyramid?, 
 in the two plans and uprights in the twenty-fecond plate. I fhould not 
 have conject ured that they were pyramids, if I had not feen the corner 
 of pyramid A. remain, as reprefented in the upright ; and they are cal- 
 led by the people the pyramids of Baiamout (Al-Harem-Baiamout.) They 
 were built in a very particular manner, of large freeftone, being fo- 
 
 ihcutyvTit ts yaq f/s'vSr tf) fttj-ecAsif ^ TtAflflif Strabo ]. Xvi. p. 809. 
 
 Vol. I. Q_ lid 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 lid buildings, at the corners and in the middle ; and I fuppofe likewife in 
 the middle of each fide, there bejng fome remains of one of the walls in 
 pyramid B. It feems as if the two firft tiers of ftone were built on the 
 foundation, and that the others between the folid buildings were laid 
 from the wall to thofe buildings ; there remain at prefent ten tiers of ftone 
 of the middle piles, of the other parts there is only one tier above ground: 
 the ftone was brought from a great diftance, fo this manner of building 
 feems to have been contrived to fave the expence of bringing the mate- 
 rials. I faw about this place, as well as on the fpot of the antient Ar- 
 finoe, near Faiume, the people lifting the fand in order to find feals and 
 medals, there being no place in all the eaft where the former are found in 
 fuch great abundance. We went on and paffed a deep bed of a canal, with 
 broken banks on each fide eight or nine feet high, a very fmall fbeam 
 running in it. I here obferved that the foil for about three feet from the 
 top was black, under it was a layer of two feet of a yellow fandy foil, 
 which I took notice of in a pit at Sennours; and moreover here the earth 
 below is black, fo that the lower black foil being the fediment of the 
 Nile ; at fome time or other a hurricane of wind may have brought fuch 
 a quantity of fand as to cover the country for two feet deep; which after- 
 wards might be render'd fruitful again by the overflow of the river. We 
 came to Faiume through the heaps of ruins of the antient Arfinoe, crof- 
 fing on a bridge, the large canal, which runs along the north fide of the 
 new town. 
 
 Faiume is about two miles in compafs, but very ill built, chiefly of un- 
 burnt brick ; it is the place of refidence of the Cafhif or governor of this 
 province : Several rich people live here, who have villages near belonging 
 to them ; there are alfo fixty Arabs of intereft who live in the town, 
 and have the title of Sheiks, one of them being the head who has the 
 greateft intereft ,• and thefe all go to the divan of the Cadi, which is 
 held twice a week. The Cadi is fent once a year from Conftantinople, 
 and has a fubftitute that conftantly relides here, and is generally the fame 
 perfon ; the Cafhif calls a divan whenever there is occafion. They have here 
 a great manufacture of thofe mattings they lay on the floors of their rooms ; 
 they are alfo famous for making rofe water, which is ufed by them in 
 many things they eat, as well as to throw on the guefts before the in- 
 cenfe ; and it is faid alfo that they make coarfe cloths, and cheap woollen 
 fluffs, prepare leather, and thofe leathern bags in which they carry the 
 water on the camels backs. 
 
 The Francifcans of the convent of Jerufalem have a fmall place here, 
 coming under the notion of phyficians, tho' they wear their habit. A 
 tumult being raifed againft the Chriftians a year or two before, on account 
 of one of them that kill'd a renegado, they broke open this convent and 
 plunder'd it of every thing. The Copti church is four miles off, tho' 
 there are many Chriftians in the town; they have vineyards in this coun- 
 try, moftly about two leagues to the weft, and the Chriftians make very 
 good whitewine ; they have alfo fine raifins, and the Mahometans make 
 a fyrup of the juice of the grape by boiling it, which they call Becmes; 
 it is ufed inftead of fugar, and they bring it alfo to the table and dip 
 their bread in it, which is a very agreeable food. The water of the ca- 
 nals in the month of February is a little fait and not good, and mull be 
 
 2 worfe 
 
O N E G Y P T. 59 
 
 worfe till the Nile rifes. Whilft I was at Faiume it hail'd and rain'd al- 
 moft all one morning, and rain'd very hard the night following, which is 
 not look'd on as an advantage, and often does harm ,■ and as they told 
 me caufes a fcarcity, the overflowing of the Nile being fufficient to water 
 the country. 
 
 When I came to Faiume, I had an apartment given me in the Cafhif's 
 houle, and hoped to have feen things to great advantage ; his people per- 
 fuaded me to fend back my horfes, and promifed I mould be well fur- 
 nifh'd, but I found myfelf obliged to hire very bad horfes at an extrava- 
 gant price. They ferved for me a table every day in my own room, and 
 Sometimes the Cafhif fent for me to dine with him; when the drams went 
 round very plentifully whilft we were eating, and the great man diverted 
 himfelf by jefting with two or three that feem'd to be with him as depen- 
 dants, expecting fome little government ; for on fuch occafions, when 
 they are in private, the Turks lay afide their gravity, and run into levity 
 as much as the Europeans. 
 
 I went and examined the lite of the antient Arlinoe, to the north of Arfmoss 
 the town, twelve miles and a half from the lake; it was firft call'd the 
 city of the crocodiles \ becaufe they worfhipped the crocodile there, which 
 they bred up tame in the lake, of which Strabo who faw it, gives a very 
 extraordinary account. Diodorus gives two reafons for the rife of the 
 worftiip of the crocodile; one that Menas, or Menes, one of the antient 
 Kings, the fame who built the labyrinth, being purfued by his own dogs 
 to this lake, was carried by a crocodile to the other fide, and in gratitude 
 built this city, and inftituted divine honours to this animal, fet apart the 
 lake for its nourifhment, where he built himfelf a fepulchre, a pyramid, 
 and the labyrinth. I conjectured this city might have been about four 
 miles in compafs, and probably had a canal on every fide of it. There are 
 little remains of the city, except the great heaps of rubbifh that are feen 
 on all fides, and ruins of a wall of a round building, which feems to have 
 been built of brick, but the 'eaft fide of it was encrufted with fuch a fort 
 of petrification as is feen on antient aquedufts ; the people fay it was a 
 bagnio, and poflibly it might be fome old building converted to that ufe. 
 The country round is water'd by a great number of canals, over which 
 there are many bridges made of brick. They reckon their diftances here 
 by malakas, a meafure of about half a league, or what one may travel 
 eafily in half an hour. 
 
 I went about three miles to the fouth weft, to a very particular obehfk Obeliik. 
 of a red granite, call'd Akmud Bijige (the pillar of Bijige) from the vil- 
 lage of Bijige near it ; it is of the figure reprefented in the twenty-fecond 
 plate, meafuring four feet two inches on the north fide, and fix feet fix 
 inches on the eaft ; it is forty-three feet high, each fide of it divided by 
 lines into three columns, that in the middle being a foot wide. I obferved 
 the manner in which the hieroglyphics are difpofed ; above thefe are four 
 ftories of men, fix on each line, eighteen inches high, moft of them hav- 
 ing hawks heads, and the high cap ; below, it is divided into fourteen 
 columns of hieroglyphics, and the top is cut down in the middle about 
 
 c na^TAeurot^i tk TOMTd £<J»' !x«tov raji'sr, srcAjf tylpoS^/t iy T w vopu TSTw TJjUWITI Toy XfCKs'sfcrlAou. 
 
 I^ly 'A^tvoij. K£omS4\m woAif f»«A«TQ nrgoTE^or, Strabo 1. xvii. p. 8 1 1. 
 
 three 
 
6o OBSERVATIONS 
 
 three inches from north to fouth, as in the draught: The obeliflc is much 
 decay'd all round for ten feet high, but moftly on the fouth fide ; the weft 
 fide is almoft entirely defaced, and at the fouth weft and fouth eaft cor- 
 ners, it is much broken for about twenty feet high, and the whole is very 
 foul, on account of the birds that fit on the top ol it ; fo that it would 
 have been difficult to have taken off the hieroglyphics. We went on and 
 came to a village call'd Gerod, where we vifited the Sheik of the village, 
 who entertain'd us very civilly. We went on moftly thro' groves oi young 
 palm-trees, and came to Topar, where I faw a young woman fit by the 
 road unveil'd, which was a certain iign of the profeffion fhe lived by. A- 
 bout the country are feveral vineyards, with the vines difpofed in a very 
 particular manner, which I fhall defcribe in another place. Having paffed 
 the groves, we paffed by corn fields, and afterwards over uncultivated 
 land, and eroding the dry bed of a canal, we came to the large bed of 
 Bahr-Jofcpi., Bahr-Jofeph, which runs into the lake Maris; it is about one hundred 
 yards broad, with clifts on the eaft fide not lefs than forty feet high, and 
 on the weft about thirty ; on the eaft fide the black earth is about fix or 
 feven feet deep, and on the weft it is from eight to twenty feet deep in 
 different places, fo that it is probable the canal did formerly overflow 
 on that fide; and after having continued to water the land by art, as 
 they do at prefent, the ground may have rifen more on this fide than on the 
 eaft : Below this it is a fandy clay of a light yellow colour, and rock to- 
 wards the bottom ; the ftream that run at this time was very fhallow, and 
 about fifty feet broad. This they told me was the only place to pafs the 
 canal, and that thofe who would go to the great pyramids to the fouth, 
 muft come this way ; tho' I have reafon to believe that the canal is paf- 
 fable near the lake. The country to the weft is call'd Nefle, and is im- 
 proved for a league or two : And here I fuppofe the harveft is forwarder 
 than in any part of Egypt, for on the fixteenth of February I faw barley 
 of that year cut and threfli'd ; the reafon I fuppofe is, that they fow very 
 early, before the Nile is at higheft, that they may raife the water with 
 lefs labour when it is fo high; for at the cataract, fo many degrees more 
 to the fouth, the com was but juft in car at the latter end of Ja- 
 nuary. 
 
 >j £ n e . The large village of Nefle is clofe by the river ; and I went to the Sheik's 
 
 houfe, which is built about a court, and has a round turret at the north 
 weft corner with canon in it for their defence, as they are often in a 
 ftate of war with the neighbouring Arabs. I had a letter to the Sheik 
 from the Cafhif, who was not at home ; fo we applied ourfelves to the 
 Caimacam, who has little power here, and lives in fear; he agreed with 
 one of the chief Arabs to fend with me four Arabs on horfeback, and a 
 camel to carry water and provifions, for about the price of three guineas, 
 and about four the next morning we fet forward, and going about two 
 hours to the north weft, we took a fupply of water, and ftay'd to give 
 the cattle grafs. From this place the fandy plain begins ; and travelling 
 on, we faw a ruin'd caftle at fome diftance to the eaft, call'd Cafr-Cophou; 
 and further on fuch another, call'd Cafr-Cobal. It is remarkable that 
 Ptolemy mentions the Cobii in the province Mareotis ; a colony from which 
 place might be fettled here : To the weft is a high iingle hill, appearing 
 fomething like a pyramid, half built ; it is call'd El-Herem-Medaiah-El- 
 
 Hebgad. 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 61 
 
 Hebgad. This I was told fignifies the pyramid of the horfe, tho' I cannot 
 be inform'd of the true fignification of the words. The firft part of the 
 defert is fandy, and afterwards in many parts it is a plain rocky ground, 
 moftly cover'd over with land. 
 
 We faw at a great diftance the temple of the Labyrinth ; and being a- Labyrinth, 
 bout a league from it, I obferved feveral heaps as of ruins cover'd with 
 fand, and many ftones all round, as if there had been fome great building 
 there ; they call it the town of Caroon, (Belief Caroon) it feem'd to have 
 been of a confiderable breadth from eaft to weft, and the buildings extended 
 on each fide towards the north, to the lake Maris and the temple : This 
 without doubt is the fpot of the famous Labyrinth, which Herodotus fays 
 was built by the twelve Kings of Egypt, when the government was di- 
 vided into twelve parts, as fo many palaces for them to meet in, to trans- 
 act affairs of ftate and religion. Diodorus 1 mentions that it was built as 
 a fepulchre for Mendes, and e Strabo that it was near the fepulchre of the 
 King that built it ; which was probably Imandes, perhaps the fame as 
 Mendes, whofe fepulchre he after fays E was here, and he is faid to be the 
 King that built the Labyrinth. Pomponius Mela fpeaks of it as built by 
 Pfammiticus ; but as Menes, or Imandes is mention'd by feveral, poflibly 
 he might be one of the twelve Kings of greateft influence and authority 
 who might have the chief ordering and direction of this great building, 
 and as a peculiar honour, might have a fepulchre apart from the others. 
 But whoever was the founder of this extraordinary fabrick, they all agree that 
 the twelve palaces contain'd in them three thoufand rooms, half of them 
 tinder ground, without doubt cut out of the rock, as thofe at Thebes. 
 There was no wood throughout the whole building, and the entrances and 
 100ms were contrived in fuch a manner as that it would be impoffible for 
 a ftranger to find his way out ; and fuch an extraordinary building it was, 
 that it is faid Dredalus came to Egypt on purpofe to fee it, and built the 
 Labyrinth in Crete for King Minos on the model of this. Herodotus with 
 great admiration faw the upper ftory of the Labyrinth, it not being per- 
 mitted to go into the underground apartments, where were the tombs 
 both of the Kings who built the Labyrinth, and of the facred crocodiles. 
 The whole building was cover'd with ftone, doubtlefs laid on the many 
 pillars that were in it; and it was adorn'd throughout with the fineft 
 fculptures : A view of the lake, and the relation the buildings have one to 
 another, may be feen in the twenty-fecond plate. 
 
 Going over the fpot of this famous building, the firft thing I faw was 
 the vafe A. in the twenty-third plate, of a reddifti ftone or marble, with 
 a folid handle on each fide. Afterwards I came to the foundation of an 
 oblong fquare building of the fame kind of ftone, about a quarter of a 
 mile fouth of the great fabrick I fhall give an account of; it is the building 
 B. in the plate of the plans, and in the plate of the view of the lake 
 Maris; it is built on a kind of folid bafe and pedeftal of ftone, the fe- 
 micircular pilafters have only one hewn ftone at the bottom of the co- 
 lumn, all above in the whole building being brick plaifter'd over ; there 
 
 GveA*5o*. Diodorus 1. I. p. 55. MgrlMtaff, i e» uv^y.\q I'^pjym^r-, ixafq* 
 
 e njSi- & Tou'roi; v, T» AaGufcj »3*s KMtmmij srae^rsv te 7 (^7rAe&go'» srajj E^wir* tijk iffAEu^iv to v^@* 
 
 7CUf 53U^p.'ffl» Eji» t^CV, )£, 3T« ^Xet'^EV©- T«(f@. iVcK. I^an^f (J'syOf** 8 T«$fl'f. StnibO !. Xvii. p. 
 
 ts xalot<rx.t*>atait<]& pstG(A;»5 rot AwGv'tyv&ov. Strabo Si I. 
 xvii. p. Hi i. 
 
 Vol. I. R are 
 
6z OBSERVATIONS 
 
 are no pilafters in the front, but the bafe is continued on before the door- 
 place, as if it was defign'd as a foundation of a portico; at the north 
 end within there is a femicircular niche as to receive a flattie : Whatever 
 this building was, it feems to have been deftroy'd and repair'd in this rough 
 manner; and does not ftand in a line with the temple, but rather a little to 
 the weft. The pilafters with their capital, and bafe, and pedeftal, are as 
 reprefented at C. I obferved fome unburnt bricks that were of yellow 
 clay, and mix'd with ftraw; all the others I had feen in Egypt being of 
 a black earth. A little further, but more to the eaft, is the oblong fquare 
 building D. of white hewn ftone plaifter'd over, a fort of bafe and plinth 
 ranges round, reprefented with the pillar at E. there being eight tiers of 
 ftone above this bafe, each eleven inches deep. Near this, a little to the 
 north weft, is a very particular fort of ruftic building F. that feems to 
 have been a gateway : Of this kind there is another G. to the north weft 
 of the great building, where there feem'd to be fome remains of an arch, 
 which would have made me doubt of its antiquity, if there had been evi- 
 Tcmplcof dent fig ns f that kind of architecture. At length we came to the grand 
 limh!' aby " building itfelf, now call'd Cafr-Caroon (the caftle of Caroon.) Herodotus 
 mentions a pyramid at the corner of the Labyrinth, and Strabo fpeaks of 
 a fepulchre at the end of it, which was a fquare pyramid, in which he 
 fays Imandes was buried, which I conjecture to be this building, and that 
 fome facred crocodiles were alfo depolited in it. . Strabo E fays it was four 
 hundred feet fquare and high ; Herodotus h , who mentions only a pyra- 
 mid in general, fpeaks of it as two hundred and forty feet fquare. The 
 prefent building is about one hundred fixty-five feet long, and eighty 
 broad. If thefe authors fpeak of the fame building, 'twill be difficult 
 to account for this difference in their meafures, unlefs we fuppofe that 
 Strabo might fpeak of a large enclofure of this fepulchre, tho' it will be' 
 difficult to conceive how it could be four hundred feet high, and gives 
 reafon to fufpe<£t that he confounded this building with the pyramid in 
 the ifland. The portico H. is a very ruftic work, almoft all deftroy'd, 
 being no where above fix feet high; it is probable there were fome apart- 
 ments under it, from the remains of a flight of flairs on the eaft fide of 
 it. I fhould not have thought that it had been cover'd, if I had not feen 
 the remains of pillars in the middle; the views of the feveral fides are re- 
 prefented in the twenty-third plate. The front is more ruin'd than any 
 other part. The upper ftory in the middle is fallen down, and is entirely 
 gone almoft all the way from this break. As the building now remains, 
 there are forty-four tiers of ftone, each nine inches deep, and confequently 
 it is thirty-three feet high. There are figns of a cornifh ranging round, 
 notwithftanding which the building might have been carried up higher. 
 Thofe fmall openings reprefented in the feveral views of this building in 
 the fame plate, are not windows, but feem to be the places from which 
 thofe pieces of brown marble or fine ftone have been taken, which I faw 
 to the north of the temple, adorn'd with a cornifh at tcp that have fome 
 ornaments of fculpture, and in the middle a niche is cut, which feem'd to 
 be of fuch a fize as would contain a marble head, and poffibly they might 
 have fuch an objeft of worfhip placed in thefe niches, reprefenting i_vcry 
 
 8 See notef. ytoTilat, SSU cTsr cwjtijv vVfl yw minimal. Herodo- 
 
 h T5; Si ya,i„ Tito™.?©' tS A«6ve/'&a (gmt tUS 1, H. C. 149. 
 
 facred 
 
ON EGYPT. 63 
 
 facred crocodile that might be depofited in this place> as I ihall fhew I 
 have reafon to think they were. 
 
 The four rooms in the length of this building have door places crown'd 
 with double corniihes, as reprefented in the plate of that architecture, to- 
 gether with ornaments of the winged globe. Thefc rooms I fuppofe, be- 
 fore they were filled up with earth, were near twenty feet high, and are 
 cover'd with large (tones of fuch a length as to be laid from wall to wall; 
 the narrow apartments at the further end might be to depofite fome 
 tombs in. Over each of them is a work like a falfe door adorn'd with 
 cornifhes ; one of them being charged with fculptures of hawks. The 
 paflage from the cell to the weft, leads up to the apartments L. by a hole 
 that feems to be broke in, and to come out at b. the large room d. being 
 over the narrow apartments at the end of the laft room. Thefe I fup- 
 pofe were the places to depofite the facred crocodiles in ; one of which 
 long cells e. is thirty feet by three feet, and the other feven feet by two 
 feet ; a way is broke up from the end of the long room to the apartments 
 above. In the falfe door on each fide of the entrance to the inner room 
 below, is a niche cut in a fhell at top; on each fide of the four middle 
 rooms are the apartments in the plan, and others between them and the 
 upper floor. Thofe mark'd K. 1 afcended to by a hole on the right fide 
 of the firft room, the paffage from the flairs on the fouth end being 
 flopped up. In thefe apartments there are feveral fmall niches in the fides 
 of the walls, as there are in the rooms above; from them there is a broken 
 paflage to the upper floor, which is of a ftrong gravelly cement. At I. 
 is the plan of what remains of the building above ; at a a. are two re- 
 liefs of men, with the heads of crocodiles. The moft extraordinary part 
 of this building is a fort of a well defcending from the upper ftory I. 
 on the eaft fide, at the narrow hole mark'd f. as it is likewife in the 
 feftion M. that leads into the fquare well which one defcends by holes on 
 each fide, as before defcribed in other wells. N. is the plan of the nar- 
 row cells g g. with the well. There is fuch another oppofite to the flairs 
 at bottom, the upright of which is mark'd h. For what purpofe thefe 
 cells fhould ferve, unlefs to depofite the crocodiles in, cannot well be 
 conceived ; for which end it is poffible they might in building the wall, 
 place fome ftones to be taken out in order to convey them in, which 
 could not otherwife be done by this narrow well, and poffibly they might 
 be the ftones at the niches mention'd on the outfide. 
 
 There are many ftones fcatter'd about the plain near this building, efpe- 
 cially feveral round ones with holes in the middle, which feem to have 
 compofed the pillars that might be about this building as well as others, 
 and probably were faften'd together in fome manner by means of thofe 
 holes. 
 
 The lake Maoris ' is about two miles from this building : Herodotus and Lake M 
 Diodorus fay it was four hundred and fifty miles round ; Pomponius Mela 
 five hundred. The two former add that it was three hundred feet deep 
 in fome parts ; Strabo does not mention the fize of it, but by pafiing over 
 in filence this ftory, that it was made by a certain King, it is probable 
 he did not give credit to it ; for the two other authors fay it was made 
 
 1 See the quotations in the geographical differtation, in the laft chapter of the laft book. 
 
 by 
 
 3 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 by King Maoris or Myris ; and Diodorus k affirms that he made alfo the 
 canal to it ten miles long and three hundred feet broad, which feems to 
 be meant of the canal to the eaft end by Tamiea, tho' that is longer ; and 
 the great river of Jofeph I palled over, which cannot run lefs than forty 
 or fifty miles from the Nile, is about the breadth mention'd by tliefe au- 
 thors, and feems to have been originally not lefs than twenty feet deep. 
 Herodotus, when he view'd this lake, might well be furprized at the ac- 
 count they gave him that it was made by art, and had reafon to afk them 
 what they did with the earth they dug out ; but feems to have too much 
 credulity to be fatisfied, when they told him that they carried the earth to 
 the Nile, and fo it was wafh'd away by the river ; for it was very extraor- 
 dinary to carry fuch a vaft quantity of earth above ten miles from the 
 neareft part of the lake, and fifty or fixty from the further parts, even tho' 
 they might contrive water carriage for a great part of the way. This I 
 fhould imagine a thing beyond belief, even if the lake were no larger 
 than it is at prefent; that is, it may be fifty miles long, and ten broad. 
 Another thing is mention'd alfo, which at firft view feems very improba- 
 ble ; and that is, that the water run into the lake from the Nile for fix 
 months cf the year, and for the other fix months run back again into the 
 Nile ', which I think can only be accounted for by fuppofmg that the 
 water enter'd the lake fix months both by the canal of Jofeph, and alfo by 
 the canal at the eaft end of the lake; and that it continued to run in by 
 the canal of Jofeph for the greater part of the other fix months, but at 
 the fame time emptied itfelf by the canal to the eaft, the bed of which 
 during that time might be higher than the water of the Nile in that part, 
 when it was fo low ; as it muft be fuppofed to be much lower there than 
 at the mouth of the canal of Jofeph; fo that I fuppofe the water began 
 to come in at both canals, after it had begun to rife for about a month, 
 and for about four months after the waters began to abate : And 1 myfelf 
 faw a ffnall ftream running into the lake by the great canal in the month 
 of February, when the Nile is very low. It is mention'd that the defign 
 of the lake was to hinder the Nile from overflowing the country too much, 
 which was effected by drawing off fuch a quantity of water, when it was 
 apprehended that there might be an inundation fufficient to hurt the land ; 
 till which time the gates were doubtlefs kept fhut, and when the flow was 
 moderate, they might not be open'd until fuch time as the country was 
 fufficiently overflow'd. I fuppofe therefore that originally there was a 
 great outlet of the Nile this way, it may be into the fea by the valley 
 call'd Baher-Bellomah, or the fea without water, which extends from 
 the weft end of this lake near as far as the fea; that finding the country 
 was not fufficiently overflow'd, they flopped the mouth of it to the fea, 
 which caufed this great lake ; that afterwards the mouth of the canal or 
 river by which the water flow'd being accidentally flopped up, all the 
 lake became dry, giving occafion for the tradition that the fpot of the 
 lake was formerly all a plain or fields m ; that the country afterwards being 
 
 k Atugvya in T? arolo;^? Halzextvotiriv a'f t>j\ tjplQIIV lle*rfl» T«A«i1ou in tojv sjreav 
 
 tijMW, tySwKoflx ^£V yaJ/wv TO rfK©*, T^We^OU S't S't Iffy TO tSuq Sff Blil, fiWl jUotao. HdOtlotUS 
 
 to 1 wAaVof. Diodorus 1. i. p. 48. J. ii. c. 100. 
 
 ' "E? ps, fif.at % tu (in is rjji a/mw, E| Si fv«s ™ Sec quotation in geographical differtation, in 
 ?{« it to'» Na~Ao» «Zth. Ktu train a(i) t|» the laft chapter of the laft book. 
 
 zk, TOTS T»ff fij UY,V(tS is TO £«flAi;lOK X«7ac«AA« fTT 
 
 much 
 
O N E G Y P T. 65 
 
 much incommoded by inundations, Maoris open'd this mouth, cleanfed this 
 canal, put floodgates, and it may be in fame parts towards the entrance, 
 funk the lake lower, and that this might give rife to the tradition that he 
 made the lake. At this time the lake was very much retired within its 
 banks. We went along on the fouth fide to the eaft at fome diftance from 
 it, and I could not perfuade the Arabs to go to the lake ; fo I left them 
 and went alone ; but feeing I was determined to go, after fome time they 
 lent one of their company to attend me, and came themfelves towards 
 the lake to meet me. There is, a gentle defcent to the banks of the lake, 
 which are broken, and of a black foil ; it was then half a mile from the 
 bank to the water, firft on a flaty ground, and then on a deep flimy 
 mud incrufted at top with a thin cake of fait. I waded along through 
 it with much difficulty, and came to the water, which is almoft as fait 
 as the fea, and of a difagreeable muddy tafte ; it contracts thefe qualities 
 from the nitre that is in the earth, and from the fait that is every year left 
 on the mud ; it is obferved that the water is not fo fait towards the parts 
 where it enters from the Nile. I faw no fort of fhells on the banks of the 
 lake ; and it is faid it has no fifli in it, but fuch as are found in the Nile. 
 They catch the fifh in great quantities, efpecially when the lake is low, and 
 bring them to Faiume market, where they are fold very cheap. As I 
 think this lake is never entirely dry, fo it is probable they always throw 
 in what fmall fifh they find, and great quantities coming in with the Nile 
 water, may be the reafons why the lake fo much abounds in fifh as it did 
 formerly, which brought in a great revenue to the Kings of Egypt. On 
 the other fide of the lake, what they told me was the ifland, appears inand in the; 
 like a head of land fetting out into the lake in a femicircular figure with lake ' 
 white clifts, and a height above, which poflibly might be the lower part 
 of thofe two pyramids, which are faid ° to have been built in it by Maoris 
 for himfelf and his Queen, and were fix hundred feet high, three hun- 
 dred feet being under the water. A coloffal ftatue fitting was placed on 
 each of them. It is difficult to go to this ifland, as their boats are very 
 bad, and there would be great danger if the wind fhould rife. I faw 
 fome large buildings north of the lake ; they faid there was a convent at 
 that place, call'd Der-El-Harakatelmy ; but the buildings feem'd to me 
 to be fome remains of antiquity, which might be converted into a mo- 
 naftery. They mention'd alfo a place call'd Ryan, to the fouth weft of 
 the lake, and faid there were fome pyramids near it ; tho' I gave more 
 credit to what they faid of a lake call'd Birk-Al-Garieh, near a day's jour- 
 ney to the weft, becaufe other travellers have had the fame account. I 
 obferved about this lake feveral roots in the ground, that feem'd to me to 
 be the remains of vines, for which the country about the lake was for- 
 merly famous. Where there is little moifture in the air, and it rains fo 
 feldom, wood may remain found a great while, tho' it is not known 
 how long thefe vineyards have been deftroy'd. 
 
 The common people here have ftrong traditions about Caroon; they The fab | e o| 
 fay he was a King, -and had keys to his treafures that loaded two hun- Charon, 
 dred camels. One would imagine from this that the fable of Charon 
 might have its rife here, and that this name might be the title of the 
 
 n E* f*Eo-ij tij Ai'wj.; y.r/.Kt-z x>j 'aim Sua su^^lh; to x«t' ojej^. ihu&oufttu tre^oi' TOrSTOV. Herodotus 
 t» uja?^- uVtg6^Bir*a' w£vt)i'mv7« o%yi<»i £xaT££t|' 1^ 1. ii. c, 149, 
 
 Vol. I. S chief 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 chief perfon who had the care of the Labyrinth, and of the fepulchres in 
 and about it, and kept the keys of thefe numerous apartments ; that no 
 one could be buried in thefe places unlefs orders were fent to him, who 
 might have the care and infpection of the public funerals ; and their Kings 
 might fome of them be carried over to the ifland, or be brought by wa- 
 ter to this place, under the direction of this great officer, who when 
 princes had behaved ill, might be forbid to inter them, as judges were ap- 
 pointed to determine whether the perfon were worthy of burial. It is 
 poflible they might give fome token, the obolus, to iignify to the pro- 
 per officer that they might have fepulchral honours done to them ; and 
 this lake might be called Acherufia, and the name be afterwards given to 
 other places paffed over for the fame purpofe; as Diodorus obferves the 
 lake at Memphis was fo call'd, who gives a particular account of the 
 whole ceremony *. Poflibly this at firft might be the pradice only with 
 regard to their princes carried acrofs this lake to the ifland, and in time 
 might come to be extended farther to all people in general, who were 
 not to be admitted to have the honour of interment, unlefs they brought 
 with them a clear reputation, the token, the teffera or obolus that was to 
 waft them to the Elyfian fields. 
 
 Turning to the fouth, when we were above a league from Cafr-Caroon, 
 we went about two leagues up a gentle afcent, and came to the high 
 ground where there is a ruin'd convent of unburnt brick, many ruins of 
 the fame materials, and feveral heaps of potfherds and rubbifh, as if there 
 had been a large town in that place. About two leagues further we came 
 to the cultivated land, and flopping a while to refrefh our cattle, went 
 a league and a half further to the Neile, where the Caimacam invited 
 us to his houfe ; and I went to repofe, very much fatigued with this ex- 
 pedition of eighteen hours in perpetual motion. The Caimacam was very 
 felicitous about a prefent of coffee I was to fend him from Faiume, and 
 attended me the next day within a few miles of that town with his Arabs 
 and flaves, who diverted themfelves in the road in riding after one another 
 in their manner. When we had paffed Topar, we left the road to the 
 fouth that we came in, and the great man fitting down to repofe, we 
 left him, and foon came to Sambour, and from that place to Faiume. 
 When I was at Nefle, I treated with the Arabs to conduit me to the two 
 great pyramids of Davara, which I faw, as I fuppofe, ten or twelve miles 
 fouth of Faiume ; but being to the fouth of the great canal, they in- 
 form'd me that this was the only way to them : They demanded fo extra- 
 vagant a price, that I concluded they did not care to go, and they affured 
 me there would be much danger in the voyage, as they might chance to 
 fall in with their enemies, in which cafe they told us they muft fly and 
 leave us to be plunder 'd. At the diftance I was at, I could not well dif- 
 cern what fort of pyramids they were ; they appear'd like two hills, being 
 probably much decay'd. They affured me that the materials they are built 
 of is of unburnt brick: A perfon who view'd them near, if he maybe 
 credited, defcribes one of them as built with three ftories of arched niches 
 all round. 
 
 * Diodorus J. i. p. 82, 85. 
 
 3 I fet 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 I Cct out for Cairo with the caravan, and went the firfl. day to Tamiea, 
 where we lay in the yard of a cane under my tent; there being no rooms, 
 except a few huts inhabited by public harlots. We went the next day a 
 long journey without flopping, to Dafhour ; from which place I went 
 the day after to Saccara, as mention'd before, and fo arrived at Grand 
 Cairo. 
 
 A 
 
 DESCRIP- 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 :«3 
 
 A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 O F 
 
 The EAST, &c. 
 
 BOOK II. 
 
 From Grand Cairo to the antient 
 Ethiopia, above the Cataract of the 
 Nile, and back to Cairo and D a- 
 
 MIATA. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Of Archomounain, Gaua, and other places in the 
 way to Akmim. 
 
 HAVING determined to make the voyage of upper Egypt, 
 the conful procured me letters from the great Sheik Ofman Bey 
 (who was Sheik-Bellet, or head and protector of the Arab race) 
 to the Bey of Girge, to the Prince of Akmim, and to the great Sheik at 
 Furfhout. I provided every thing as for a long voyage ; flores of coffee, 
 rice, tobacco, foap, red fhoes of the Arabs, and feveral other things for 
 prefents, and took care to have fufficient arms for our defence. I had 
 the good fortune to meet with a boat of the prince of Akmim, and to be 
 recommended to Malim Soliman who was going in it, a very worthy ca- 
 tholic copti, for whom I fhall always have the utmoft regard. He was 
 the chief perfon in managing the affairs of that prince, although he would 
 never accept of any office under him, thereby prudently avoiding the 
 danger of having his family ruin'd, it having been the cuftom of thefe 
 princes, as it is much all over Turkey, to feize on what is got in their fer- 
 vice, when any of their officers die, being only (as they fay) taking their 
 own again : And tho' he might have been fecure by the goodnefs of the 
 s prefent 
 
O N E G Y P T. 69 
 
 prefent prince, yet his family might have a harder fate under another, 
 from whom he might not hereafter be able to withdraw himfelf. It was 
 thought proper I fhould take on me a name that the people are ufed to, 
 fo it was agreed that I fhould be called Jofeph, with the ufual title of 
 Chtiftians in this country, malim or mafter. 1 had alfo let my beard 
 grow, and put myfelf exadly in the habit of a copti, with the black 
 ferijee or gown of ceremony, and had a large blue and white towel or 
 handkerchief loofe about my neck, hanging down before, and on other 
 occafions a large meet of the fame kind, which is brought round the 
 body and over the head ; not without the blue garment or fhirt, which is 
 put on over all, to go out with at any time in difguife with the boatmen. 
 In this manner 1 fet out with my fervant and dragoman, or interpreter. 
 On the fixth of December one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-feven, 
 about noon, we embark'd in a fmall hired boat, the vefl'el we were to go 
 in to Akmim having left the port, and gone half a day's journey up the 
 river, for fear of being preffed to carry the foldiers to Rofetto, which the 
 Grand Signior had fent for to Conftantinople, to go to the war againft the 
 Emperor and the Mufcovites. Setting out, I was fhewn on the height 
 which is to the fouth of the narrow eaftern plain, a ruin'd tower which 
 they call the tower of King Antar. They have alfo a tradition of fome 
 buildings of this King on the fide of Babylon ■ but who he was I could 
 not be inform'd, being probably fome King of Egypt, who goes by ano- 
 ther name in hiftory *. Before we came to this place, we had Ofman to 
 the weft. About this place poffibly might be Acanthus, where Strabo 
 feems to fay there was a temple of Ofiris, and a wood of Thebaick Acan- 
 tha, which produced gums. This probably was Acacia, the Thebaick 
 Acantha or bum ; and 'tis not improbable that the city itfelf had its name 
 from this wood. This tree is very common in Egypt, under the name of 
 Sount, and is much the fame as the Acacia call'd Cyale, in Arabia Petrasa, 
 which I am inform'd produces the Gum Egyptian, or Arabic. At night 
 we came up to the great boat at Turphaier, which is on the ifle that 
 I fuppofe to be the great ifle of Heracleopolis p , made by a canal crofting Heraclcopi 
 from this great river to the old bed of the Nile under the hills. This lis - 
 weftern channel the people call the old channel at this time, which con- 
 firms what I have faid in another place on this fubjeft. 
 
 The large boats, call'd marfhes, fuch as we embark'd on, have a maft 
 about the middle, and another towards the prow ; they cover part of the 
 boat with matting, by means of poles fet up an end, with others tied 
 acrofs at the top of them, under which fhelter the people fit and repofe all 
 night. On the feventh we went on with a gentle wind, having had a view 
 of the pyramids of Saccara and Dafhour, to the north weft from Tur- 
 phaier. We paffed by many villages, and coming to Stalhiteh on the eaft, 
 I faw on the weft fide oppofite to it, at fome diftance, what appear'd to 
 me at firft like a fmall high hill with a ruin on it, fomething in the 
 fhape of a pyramid. When I had a better view of it, it appear'd as re- 
 
 * Diodorus 1. i. p. 82, 86. t "e& i 'Hj^kWtw >ofw <» »('«■» fis^itAj. Ibid. 
 
 Met» S't M£p£ iv v Ait«*&e? ze-o'aj? o'poiwj iv t£ Heracleopolices eft infula Nili, longa pafTuum 
 
 Ai£u'i),it, to T»'0(Ti'e>J@' lEfoy.x, to T^r'Ax«v&jjf quinquaginta mille, in qua eft oppidum Herculis 
 
 •nit QyQcuxSis, i% h to ito'^i. Strabo 1. xvii. p. appeliatum. Pliti. Nat. Hijl. xxxvii. c. 5. 
 
 809. .' Wi 
 
 Vol. I. T prefented 
 
7 o OBSERVATIONS 
 
 prelented at C. in the twentieth plate. They aflured me that not only 
 the upper part, but the whole which appears like a hill, is built ; the 
 The great or Chriftians call it the great pyramid, (Al-Herem-Kiebir) but the Maho- 
 falfe pyramid. metans caU it the faIfe ?yram [^ (Al- Herem Elkadab.) To go to it, they 
 
 fay, one may land at Efououd, but the moft convenient place is Righah, 
 from which it is half a day's journey ; that is, I fuppofe, about ten miles. 
 To go to this pyramid, it is neceffary to have a man from the Sheik of this 
 country, call'd Elkebery, who lives at Mocanan. I imagine that this is a 
 fmall hill, probably artificial, and that it may have been cafed with ftone, 
 or unburnt brick ; I think they faid the latter, and that what appears at 
 top is a pyramid of an extraordinary figure built on it. We arrived at 
 Righah that night, where we ftaid ; it being the cuftom going up always 
 to lie by at night, as there are many fhoals in the Nile, and travellers al- 
 ways lie in the boat, and keep a watch to defend themfelves againft any 
 attack, or to hinder people from coming privately to the fide of the 
 boat, as they fometimes do, and fteal any thing they can conveniently 
 find. It is faid, with what truth I know not, that fometimes the rogues 
 have come to plunder boats with their naked bodies befmear'd all over 
 with oyl or greafe, that if the boatmen mould attempt to lay hold of 
 Convent of them, they might the more eafily flip out of their hands. On the eighth, 
 St. Antony. t j, ere t> e i n g ver y little wind, we went afhoar on the eaft, at the convent 
 of St. Antony: Here, as in moft of the convents of Egypt, the priefts are 
 feculars, fo that they live in the convent with their wives and children. 
 Several of them were employ 'd in bringing ftones to repair their convent, 
 and thinking we were officers come to demand the poll tax, when we 
 alk'd how many there were in the convent, they acknowledged no more 
 than thofe we faw ; but when they were undeceived, they fhew'd us their 
 convent with much humility, and it was proper that we fhould leave them 
 fome charity, as they are very poor. The convent is encompafled with 
 a wall to defend them againft robbers; they have a tolerable church, and 
 they fhew feveral things relating to St. Antony, who they fay went from 
 this place into the defert by the red fea, and was there the firft founder of 
 the monaftic life. They told us they expected their bifhop that day to offi- 
 ciate in their church; for the bifhops here ipend moft of their time going 
 round their diftridl officiating in their churches, and collecting the dues 
 that belong to themfelves and the patriarch. There are no churches a- 
 bout the country but what are called monafteries, becaufe probably few 
 except thofe of the monafteries were fuffer'd to remain. As crocodiles 
 are hardly ever feen io low as this, they are very fond of ftories that they 
 can go no lower, and that if they come fo far they turn on their backs. 
 They relate the fame of St. George's convent much lower, fome pretend- 
 ing to attribute this to their faith, others to talifmans. 
 
 We came up with the ifle and large village or town of Sment, and foon 
 after to a fmall fandy ifland oppofite to Benadi, where I faw a little cro- 
 codile, being the firft we had met with. We came to a town call'd 
 Bouche, the Bouche, on the canal which goes to Faiume ; it is probable that this was 
 Ptoicmais Ptolemais, the port of Arfinoe mention'd by Ptolemy '. We came after to 
 Bcnefuief. Benefuief, which is a town about a mile round, very ill built, of unburnt 
 
 * 'AfoWij x, c ? f<@. n»Xip«SV. Ptoi. 1. iv. c. 5. 
 
ON EGYPT. 7 r 
 
 brick ; it is the capital of a province of that name, and here a Sangiak 
 or Bey refides. They have great manufactures of a ftriped narrow carpet 
 fluff without napp, made of wool and coarfe thread. They are ufed by 
 inferior people to cover the cufhions of fophas; they make alfo coats for 
 their children of this fluff without fleeves, being wove fo as to ferve for 
 that purpofe without being cut. 
 
 We paffed by Berangieh, where there is a fmall hill to the fouth, call'd 
 Coum-el-Arab, and to the porth of it are feveral fmall hillocks, fo that 
 probably this was an antient place, and for that reafon as well as the fi- 
 tuation, I fuppofe it to be Cynopolis ', the capital of a province of that Cynopolis, 
 name, in which Anubis was worfhipped, and dogs were had in great ho- 
 nour, and a certain facred food was allotted to them. It is faid the rife 
 of this was owing to Anubis, a companion of Oliris, his wearing as an 
 emblem of his courage, the dog's (kin for armour, as Macedon his other 
 companion wore the (kin of a wolf ; on which account fome fay thefe 
 animals came to be worlhipped : And this feems the more probable, as 
 thefe Deities are reprefented with human bodies, with the heads of thefe 
 beads, which might have its rife from their bringing the upper part of the 
 (kins over their heads ; as Hercules is reprefented with the (kin of a lion 
 as well as thofe who defired to be thought like him We paffed by 
 Bibeh, a little town where there is a convent of St. George; we after 
 came up with the large ifle of Fetne, which is a very fruitful fpot 5 it 
 was planted with melons and cucumbers, in rows about fix feet apart, 
 with the canes of Turkey wheat ftuck in obliquely over them to defend 
 them from the weather, and in fome parts a fort of rufh or grafs call'd lefe 
 is fet along in a trench over the young plants ; which fort of gra r s they like- 
 wife ufe to make ropes in this country. Here we lay by at night, and 
 another boat having faften'd to the eaft fide, they fhot at a man that was 
 coming towards it, as they fuppofed, to fteal fomething, who as they told 
 me, went off crying out as if he had been wounded, and the boat moved 
 over to the weft, which is always the fafer fide. To this place the hills 
 on the eaft fide coming near the river, the country is very little inhabited 
 above the convent of St. Antony ; and thofe that are on the eaft fide are 
 moftly Arabs, who fubmit to no government, infomuch that when I re- 
 turn'd, the boatmen made an exprefs agreement that they fliould not be 
 obliged to go to any place on the eaft, but where they pleafed. 
 
 On the ninth we had little wind, and lay by about noon at the port of 
 Fetne; we proceeded on our voyage and went by Sharony on the eaft. 
 I obfcrved ftones along the fhoar, which feem'd to be the ruins of a very 
 thick wall of a port or quay ; I likewife faw two little hills, one above a 
 mile fouth of the other, and to the eaft of the fouthern hill is another, 
 which feem'd to have had fome buildings on it. Thefe hills and the ruins 
 I faw, made me conjecture that fome antient town might be here ; and 
 it agrees beft with the fituation of Mufa; of the itinerary. We flopped all Abougirge, 
 night a little above a fmall town call'd Abou-girge, which is a bifliop's fee: °I,° syn "~ 
 
 3 E£*f S eViv Kuvo7ToAi't>k vo^off «, Kvvcuu sroA(f h pj) zjfgi cuj-iXs Eu'rotyuV rev y.iv yag 'AvssGlv STE&tSsoS-iw 
 
 v, Avs£ic Tiftotraw, >t, -rare xvfi Tifj.^ tij ciTiffiff T£r«KTiti' xu>r,v, tcv <Te MajtEjoV* Au'jts vt^rop.w' a<p' r,i euztue 
 
 lis ''fesi. Strabo 1. xvii. p. 8 12. j, ri fa ™t« Tipi9ii>«< sra^ ™s 'AijWW. 
 
 c Tw J' 'Oo-i'g/Ji o-u^f^l6vo9-ou tfsf 'AixGtv Tf Kj Diodorus I. i. p. 16. See alfo p, 77. for other 
 
 Muni!"*, £*$t£tvl£f MgHQ' ei/i$«TfW Je y^wat&a* reafons given for this worfhip. 
 Tcft ETTiff^tTteioif STAotf ecVe nvm £tt'av sot dwiKiiw 
 
 This 
 
 3 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 This I fuppole to be Oxyrinchus, capital of the province of that name, 
 fo call'd from a fifh « they worfhipped all over Egypt, but principally' in 
 this place, where they had a temple built to this Deity ; for there were fe- 
 veral animals, which tho' they were particularly honour'd in fome places, 
 yet were worfhipped throughout all Egypt ; as the lepidotus or fcaly fifh, 
 the hawk, and the ibis, the bull, the dog, and the cat w . Here they faid we 
 were a third part of the way to Akmim, which is about three degrees and 
 a half from Cairo. On the tenth I faw many Arabs at a diftance on horle- 
 back on the weft fide, and going a little way from the boat, one of them 
 made towards me, and another after him ,• I retired to the boat, and they 
 came pretty near and took a view of us. We paffed by Aboufagat-Beni- 
 fama on the eaft; there is a large houfe near, which belong'd to Sara 
 Cafhif, who as they told me, fled to this place out of Cairo, when they 
 affaflinated eight of their Beys at once in a vifit they were making in one 
 thoufand feven hundred and thirty ; he return'd after to Cairo, and lay 
 hid in the houfe of a Chriftian; but a ftridr. fearch being made after him, 
 he fled towards the Red fea, where as they told me, he married a Sheik's 
 daughter, and was at that time in arms. It was now the time of the 
 Turkifh Ramafan or faft, fo call'd from the month in which it is kept ; 
 and it was very hard on the boatmen to tow up the bark, as they were 
 obliged to do when we had no wind ,- for during this month they are not 
 allow'd to eat, drink, fmoak, or take any pleafure from fun riling to fun 
 fet ; and as a Turkifh month happens at all times of the year in the term 
 of two or three and thirty years, it is a great hardfhip on the poor, who 
 are obliged to work in the fummer, and are only allow'd to wafh their 
 mouths with water; but they pafs the night in feafting and pleafure, if 
 they can afford it. The firft thing they take after this faft is a draught of 
 water, then they fmoak, drink their coffee, and make their great meal ; 
 after midnight they take another plentiful repaft and go to fleep ; but 
 thofe who have nothing to do, lit up all night and fleep the greater part of 
 the day, fo that this faft does not prove in the leaft inconvenient to them. 
 When we palled by this place, the Arabs call'd to the mafter of the boat 
 to come afhoar and give them fome tobacco, who anfwer'd, in order to 
 frighten them, that the janizaries in the boat would give them tobacco ,- 
 but as we had a dinner preparing, and they faw the fmoak, they reply 'd 
 in their cool manner, that the janizaries were dreffmg dinner, intimating 
 that by this they knew we were Chriftians. On this we all fhew'd our- 
 felves in the habits of Mahometans, and fo they went away ; however it 
 was a caution to us for the future, not to difcover by this means that there 
 were Chriftians on board, which might have encouraged the Arabs to 
 make an attempt upon us. On the eleventh we made very little way. I 
 obferved on the weft fide, the bank within the bed of the river was fow'd 
 all the way to the water. In the night they faw a man fwimming to- 
 wards the boat, but calling out he return'd to the fhoar; for they fre- 
 quently come in the night, and hanging on the fide of the boat, fteal any 
 thing they can moft conveniently lay their hands on, whilft the people are 
 afleep. On the twelfth we came to the hills on the eaft, that end at the 
 
 u 'o£v'§u^@- HroAir, ^ vo^o; o/Aw'yu^oi- iifAuffi Js w Strabo ibid. 
 
 TO* O|v£uj/£ov, tij £;iv tajrali I'egaa '0|vgu'y^s. Strabo 
 
 L xvii. p. 8 1 2. 
 
 % river, 
 
O N E G Y P T. 73 
 
 river, part of them having the name of Codrickfhan. The men being 
 obliged to tow, I went afhoar there, and obferved that feveral grottos were 
 cut all over the mountains, which were without doubt the fepulchres of 
 the people on the weft fide of the river. I law alfo what I took to be 
 the bed of a canal cut in between the hills, which poffibly might be to 
 convey water to the eaft : All thefe hills are rocks of petrified fhells, moftly 
 the cockle, and fome flat fhell, and alfo leveral large oyfter fhells. To 
 the fouth of thefe hills is a fine fpot of ground belonging to a village of 
 the Arabs in the middle of it, call'd Cerefia ; it is finely improved, and 
 they have tobacco there, which I was inform'd is not good. We came 
 to a town call'd Samalout, where there is a moique with a minaret, the 
 only one I had feen fince I had left Cairo. That night our boat flopped 
 about eight o' clock, and then went on a little further about nine, which 
 I fuppofed was to avoid any danger by flaying in a place where people 
 might obferve we had halted in the evening. On the thirteenth we came 
 to the hills on the eaft, which are clofe to the river, and are call'd Jebel 
 Ockfeir, becaufe it is a great harbour for all forts of birds ; there are 
 many grottos in it, and on the top of it is a convent which has lands ; but 
 they are obliged to receive and entertain every body that comes. 
 
 On the fourteenth we had a good wind, and paffed by Minio on the Minio. 
 weft, a neat town in comparifon of the others, and the refidence of the 
 Cafhif of the province of that name ; higher we paffed Souadi, a fmall 
 town to the eaft. 
 
 We came up with the ruin'd city of Antinoopolis, now call'd Enfineh : Aminoo] 
 Some fay there was antiently a city here call'd Befa; but Antinous, who lis ' 
 accompanied Hadrian into Egypt, being drowned there, that Emperor built 
 this city, and call'd it after the name of his favourite, to whom he infti- 
 tuted games and divine honours : It was made alfo the capital » of a new 
 province of that name, taken out of the laft of the feven provinces, 
 call'd Heptanomis. It is faid the city was three or four miles round. I 
 faw a large pillar with a Corinthian capital, and a lquare ftone or plinth 
 on the top, which was probably to fet fome ftatue on ; it is faid there were 
 four of thefe. I had alfo a view of a very fine gate of the Corinthian 
 order, of exquifite workmanfhip; a plan and upright of which may be 
 feen in the twenty-fourth plate, mark'd A. B. Near this place is a village 
 of Chriftians, call'd Ebadie, whofe greateft fecurity, among fuch very bad 
 people, feems to be a notion that has prevail'd, that no Mahometan can 
 live in that place. Higher is the convent of St. John (Der-Abou-Ennis) 
 where there are feveral priefts ; and a little further on is Meloui, near a 
 mile to the weft of the river. This town is about a mile round, and Meloui. 
 makes a tolerable appearance within, the fhops being well built; it is at 
 the head of nine villages, which are altogether a fmall principality belong- 
 ing to Mecca; fo that the Emir- Hadge, who is commonly one of the 
 greateft Beys, and has the care of conducting the caravan to Mecca, is 
 mafter of it, and fends a Sardar to govern the country, who lives in as 
 much ftate as the Cafhifs and other great governors. As this is a place of 
 great honour and profit, lo it is commonly given to one of the greateft 
 people of thofe that have been flaves to the Emir- Hadge. This place fup- 
 
 w Si «va"oAuiv Ta arbapy Nspsf 'Avlivofrift, *i itj jUJ^OffoAlf ST* flU/'ia 'Avtvox SIoAlf. Ptol. iv. C. 5. 
 
 Vol. I. TJ plies 
 
74 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 plies Mecca with three hundred and ninety thoufand adeps or facks of corn 
 every year, which is fent by way of Cairo, Suez, and the Red fea, it being 
 a very rich corn country. The Chriftians have no church, but are obliged 
 to go to the convent on the other fide. 
 Archemou- About three miles north of Meloui, is the village of Archemounain : 
 nam. There is a large country here which alfo goes by that name. This village 
 is on the ruins of an old city, which I fuppofe to be the antient Hermo- 
 polis"; or, which is all the fame, as Pliny calls it, the city of Mercury. It 
 feem'd to have been of an irregular form, extending above a mile from 
 eaft to weft, and more than half a mile from north to fouth, and is near 
 two miles from the river. Little appears but heaps of rubbifh all over 
 the fite of the old city, except a grand portico of an antient temple re- 
 prefented in the twenty-fourth plate- at C. and D. confifting of twelve 
 pillars, fix in a row, nine, feet diameter ; there are hieroglyphics on every 
 part both of the pillars and of the ftones laid on them. I faw on the 
 pillars fome remains of paint, and the ceiling is adorn' d with ftars ; on 
 feveral parts there are figures of pyramids, as with a door to them, which 
 Kircher interprets to be (o dyotAo$ Saipw) the good principle ; a perfon 
 fitting, and one offering to him, is cut in feveral parts of the frieze. It 
 appears that the pillars have been built up for about half way between, as 
 in many Egyptian temples. About two hundred paces to the fouth, I faw 
 fome large ftones, and a piece of a pillar ftanding upright, which may be 
 the remains of fome building belonging to this temple. I faw alfo fome 
 pieces of granite pillars among the heaps of ruins. I was inform'd that 
 about a league to the fouth weft of thefe ruins, there is a place call'd 
 Hoar, which from the name one may conjecture to be about the fite of 
 the antient caftle of Hermopolis y, on the fouth fide of the great canal, 
 where they took cuftom of every thing that came out of the Thebaid ; 
 it being the firft place without that country; as the Theban ' caftle on 
 the other fide was the firft place on the Thebaid ; which muft have been 
 atTaroutofcherif ; the provinces of Hermopolis and Antinoopolis being the 
 laft before the entrance into the Thebaid. I was alfo inform'd that when 
 the waters of the Nile begin to be low, there is no current in this great 
 canal call'd Baher-Jofeph, but that there is always fome ftanding water 
 in it. They told me alfo that Mount Bibian is about two hours weft of 
 this canal ; that it was a high hill, I fuppofe between the mountains, and 
 that there are fome ruins there. It was in my return I faw thefe an- 
 tiquities. Going up, we flopped only about an hour near Meloui, whilft 
 the mafter of the boat went to fee one of his families who lived here. 
 
 We fail'd on, and obferved a great number of grottos cut in the moun- 
 tains all the way from Souadi to Manfalouth. Near oppofite to this laft 
 place where the hills retire to the eaft, I faw a building on them cover'd 
 with a dome, which I thought might have been a convent ; but they told 
 me it was fome old ruin'd building. I obferved that there are feveral 
 
 * En-* 'E^uoffoAmjcNopof ^E^OTrflAif, dm dvrfAuv by fchceni confined of fixty (ladia each, from this 
 
 Ta sralafA? peoo'yH^ 'EfftaVc-Aif fj^yahyj. Ka) «Vo place up to Siene, and from Memphis to this 
 
 (Wpuiv ii s-olaftS ztaeyxelptvxi QvhuxM. Ptol. ibid, place, they were fchceni of one hundred and 
 
 1 See w. *E£wr/kiv 'EfpoiroAiW tpuA«jc>;, Tthwii* twenty ftadia, as lower riiey were only of thirty 
 
 ti twv ek t^j Q^auSQ' K«T«tpefof*ivwi' - tv7t03-tv «££ii ftadia. See Strabo 1. xvii. p. 804. 
 TOT-i$tjgo*7a5Wi«v £oiW. Strabo 1. xvii. p. 813. 1 e7t« « QiGtuw QuKam. Strabo xvii. p. 813. 
 Here it is to be obferved that the Greek meafure 
 
 narrow 
 
O N E G Y P T. 7 5 
 
 narrow openings into the mountains. About this place I faw great ruins 
 of walls built with unburnt brick, from the river up the fide of the 
 hills ; they told me they were made by the Kings of Egypt, when the 
 Turks invaded this country, tho' 1 mould rather have thought they had 
 been built by the Arabs, when they might have had wars with one ano- 
 ther. A little further is a convent cut out of the rock ; the church of it is 
 ferved by a prieft that comes from Manfalouth. We paffed by that town, 
 which I fuppofe to be Lycopolis, the chief city of a province of that 
 name, in which they paid an extraordinary devotion to the wolf. Seme 
 authors mention a fabulous foundation for it, becaufe when the Ethiopians 
 invaded Egypt, they fay they were drove back to Elphantine, on the bor- 
 ders of Ethiopia by wolves : Other reafons alfo are given for this extrava- 
 gant worfliip *. 
 
 Manfalouth is a mile from the river, and above a mile round ; it is to- Manfalouth. 
 lerably well built ; a Cafhif refides here who governs this province : It is L y co P ol,s - 
 alfo a bifhop's fee, and there are about two hundred Chriftians in the place ; 
 but their church is at fome diftance at Narach, where the common people 
 have a notion the holy family ftay'd till the death of Herod. The Nile 
 here is fo deep, and there are fo few fhallows, that we fail'd all night, 
 and on the fifteenth we paffed by Sciout, about two miles from the river, Sciour. 
 which I went to in my return ; it is finely fituated on a height that may Antxo P ollS - 
 have been made by art, divided into three parts, being higheft at each 
 end; it is in the middle of a very fine country. There is a large lake by 
 the town, which is fill'd from the Nile by a canal, over which there is a 
 bridge of three high Gothic arches. There are alfo feveral pleafant gar- 
 dens without the town, which ftretches about two miles from the fouth 
 eaft to the north weft, and is well built ; and it may be reckon'd among 
 the beft cities in Egypt : A Cafhif refides here, who governs this province 
 of Sciout; there are about five hundred Chriftians in the town, and a 
 bifhop ; but their church is a league off, the hills to the eaft being about 
 that diftance, and are cut into a great number of grottos. This I fup- 
 pofe to have been Anteopolis, capital of the province of that name, fo 
 call'd from Antaeus, who was overcome by Hercules b ; and Diodorus fays 
 that Ofiris committed to his care the countries of Ethiopia and Lybia. 
 This place anfwers alfo to the account of Ptolemy", who places it at ibme 
 diftance from the river. 
 
 We faw Aboutig near a mile to the weft of the river; it is a pretty Atnu-ig;. 
 large town, and a bifhop's fee ; I fuppofe it to be Hypfele of the antients. H >' pfdc ' 
 Near the town we faw the encampment of an Arabian Sheik, who com- 
 mands this country. Thefe governors often go round their territories, en- 
 camping near towns and villages, in many of which they have houfes. 
 This method they take in order to collect the tributes that are paid to 
 them, which are moftly in cattle. Above Aboutig is the port that be- 
 longs to the city, call'd Nackele, and almoft oppofite to it is the country 
 of Seling, confifting of feveral villages. To the north eaft of the moft 
 fouthern village, are two fmall hills, where I imagined there might have 
 been fome antient town ; and from the name one would conclude it was 
 Selinon, fuppofing the diftance of fixteen miles in the itinerary from Pa- 
 
 " See t. and Diodorus i. p, 79. c Aftr^xMuc 'Avr«i» pttlya®: Pto!. iv. c. 5. 
 
 b Diodorus i. p. 18. 
 
 nopolis 
 
 3 
 
41 
 
 76 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 nopolis or Akmim, to be a miftake for fix and thirty. In the evening we 
 Gam-Kiebre came to Gaua-Kiebre, which may be the Paffalon of Ptolemy, the laft 
 Paffilon. pl ace m the province of AntEeopolis, tho' the diftances do not well agree. 
 
 There is here a very beautiful portico of a temple of eighteen pillars, in 
 three rows, as reprefented in the twenty-fifth plate; they have a particular 
 capital, and the columns are enrich'd with hieroglyphics beyond any that 
 I have feen in Egypt, The manner alfo in which a wall is built up againft 
 the pillars in the front, as for fo many door places, is altogether lingular. 
 There is an imperfect Greek infcription in the frieze, the middle ftone of 
 the infcription being fallen down, and lies on the ground. This infcrip- 
 tion may be feen at the end of the book, with other infcriptions I found 
 in Egypt ; it appears to have been a very magnificent building, not only 
 from the portico, , but from the vaft ftones that are feen about it ; one I 
 found to be twenty-one feet long, eight broad, and four deep, another 
 thirty feet long, and five broad. Behind the portico, at fome diftance is 
 a ftone fhapcd like the top of an obelifk, as feen in the fame plate. There 
 is a niche on one fide of it, which might be for a ftatue, and hierogly- 
 phics are cut on it. On the fixteenth we came to the territories of the 
 Prince of Akmim, which begin at Raigny. Near this place is the grotto 
 of the famous ferpent call'd Heredy, mention'd by travellers. On the fe- 
 venteenth we arrived at Akmim. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of Akmim, and the places near it. 
 
 AKMIM is about a mile to the eaft of the river, on a little height 
 that feem'd to have been raifed by art, a canal of water from 
 the river going round moft part of the town when the Nile is high. 
 Panopolis. I fuppofe it to have been Panopolis, famous of old for workers in ftone, 
 and for the linen manufactures and at prefent they make coarfe cot- 
 tons here. It appears plainly from Diodorus, that this is the city which 
 is call'd Chemmis by Herodotus *, who mentions that Pan accompanying 
 Ofiris, on that account was deified, and particularly worfhipped in this 
 city. Herodotus fays Chemmis was near Neapolis, as it was the next city 
 to it of any confequence on the eaft fide, and fpeaks of a temple and 
 games inftituted to Perfeus here, whofe anceftors they pretend went from 
 this city into Greece. It is now the place of refidence of the Prince of 
 Akmim, who has the title of Emir or Prince, and is as a Sheik of the 
 country. The family came two or three generations pad from Barbary, 
 and managed fo as to become governors of a large territory, by renting 
 the land of the Grand Signor, according to cuftom. It is like the other 
 
 d Uatiwv EToAlf, AiKKfJ/wv, Jtj h&x^ym Kuloixlet w&- "En Xiffl* is S^Alf piyahK ©r&xitS iyyvs 
 
 Koud. Strabo 1. XVli. p. 813. NE>jf sroAi©'" iv tou'tji TJI btsAi tr) Tlt^ai®- A«k«fjf 
 
 * Tou'iw ya^ TSf iy%o>ej-vi; a pavov uyxh^alc/, Igov itj^ymav. Herodotus ii. c. at. 
 
 sfEiroiiiKEvcu xa T « zsm I'ffdv, «aa« «, kto'ajv tVw'vupov Herodotus fays that this city was in theNomos 
 
 xora ih e^t^tta, K«AifjwEniv 0V0 ™ iy%uy.wv of Thebes, which probably in his time extended 
 
 X-fj.fii» t! Xei^aw, lA&tgpwiuepw,* n«ior sss'aiv. To far, and the provinces of Coptos and Pano- 
 
 Diodorus i. p. 16. polis might be afterwards taken out of it. 
 
 Arab 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Arab towns, except that the ftreets are wider ; the quoins of their houfes 
 are built of burnt brick, but all the reft of bricks that are only dried iii 
 the fun. I went to the convent of the Francifcan raiilionaries, being re- 
 commended to them by their prefect. I dined and fupped with them in 
 their hall, and the firft day many of the Catholic Coptis came to fee me, 
 there being about two thoufand Chriftians in and about the town, two 
 hundred of which they told me were converts to the church of Rome. 
 They have a large room in the convent, where as many of their people 
 as pleafe may come every night, and one of the fathers is obliged to at- 
 tend to difcourfe with them, and to anfwer any queftions they afk. 
 
 I went with my friend Malim Soliman to wait on the Prince, with a 
 letter from Ofman Bey, and a prefent of feveral vafes of glafs; he was 
 dreiTed in the Turkish habit, not after the Arab fafhion, and received me 
 with great civility. This Prince is much beloved by his fubjedts, efpe- 
 cially the Chriftians, who are on a very good footing in this place, as they 
 were likewife in the time of his father, which is thought to be owing to 
 the mother of this Prince, who had been a Chriftian flave, and it is con- 
 jectured that in her heart fhe always retain'd her religion, for as long as 
 fhe lived, fhe fent a prefent to the convent every week ; and this Prince 
 was thought to be much inclined that way, having, as they fay, ftiewn 
 fome marks of devotion when he has come to fee their chapel. The mif- 
 fionaries came here at firft under the character of phyficians, and were 
 received by the father, as well as by this Prince, into their palaces: The 
 latter fome years ago was accufed to the government above, as if he was 
 become a Chriftian ; five hundred foldiers were fent to bring him to Cairo, 
 but efcaping to the mountains, he took with him the three mifllonaries 
 that were there; and having friends at Cairo, after fome time the foldiers 
 were recall'd, and he return'd to his capital. This Prince died fuddenly 
 about a year after, greatly lamented by his people. I went to fee the 
 fmall remains of antiquity that are about the town, and found to the 
 north fome ruins of an antient temple, of which there is little to be feen, 
 except four very large ftones that lie near a hollow ground, out of which 
 it is probable they dug the other ftones of the temple: One of them, more 
 remarkable than the reft, is about eighteen feet long out of the ground, 
 one end of it being under a modern building ; it is eight feet wide, and 
 three deep, and has a Greek infeription on it, in which the name of Ti- 
 berius Claudius is mentiond, and fome remains, as I take it, of the name 
 of the city. On another fide of the ftone is a very extraordinary fculp- 
 ture which has been painted, and from which I concluded that it was a 
 temple dedicated to the fun. Within fome ornaments, there are four 
 circles; in the inner circle is a figure probably reprefenting the fun, the 
 fpaces between the two next are divided into twelve parts; in the firft, 
 twelve birds are cut in like feals; in the next twelve figures defaced, that 
 I conjectured might be the figns of the Zodiack. The outer one, not di- 
 vided, has in it figures of men, if I miftake not, in the fame number. In 
 .each angle between the outer circle and the fquare ornaments that are 
 round it, is a figure which may poftibly reprefent the four feafons: A wing 
 extends along one fide of it, from a fort of globe mark'd out in lines, 
 which probably had another wing extending in the fame manner, it may 
 be over fuch another fculpture. Thefe ftones, and fome others of a tem- 
 Vol. I. X pie 
 
7 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 pie near, are fo large that they cannot move them ; nor do they ufe ftones 
 in building, but they break in pieces thefe fine morfels of antiquity, a- 
 dorn'd with hieroglyphics, and make lime of them. About a hundred 
 yards higher to the north eaft, is another great ruin, the ftones of which 
 are ftill larger: The entrance of this temple feems to have been to the 
 fouth, as that of the other was probably to the north; moft of it is a 
 white {tone mix'd with pebbles, and adorn'd with hieroglyphics ; one of 
 them has ftars cut on it, which without doubt cover'd part of the build- 
 ing. Thefe ftones lie all in a hole fome feet deep, which has been dug to 
 get out the fmall ftones, and to break the large ones to pieces. One of 
 thefe temples might have been dedicated to Pan, and the other to the Sun, 
 and poflibly there might have been a third dedicated to Perfeus. Several 
 red granite pillars ftand in a fquare of the town, where there might be 
 fome other antient building; and in a mofque I faw many pillars of granite, 
 and other marble. In the portico of another mofque, there is a piece of 
 grey granite five feet long, and near two broad, on which there was a 
 Greek infcription, that has been almoft entirely erafed ; it was in fmall 
 letters not an inch long, and probably fome law or decree was cut on 
 this ftone. 
 
 Convents to I fpent a day in going to fee fome places without the town, and 
 the eaft.. wen t three miles eaft to the uninhabited convent of the martyrs, on a low 
 hill near the foot of the mountain ; from thence we went into a very nar- 
 row valley, between the high fteep mountains, and in two miles came to 
 the convent call'd Dermadoud, which is one of the moft dilmal retire- 
 ments I ever faw ; it confifts of nothing but grottos cut in the rock, 
 except the fmall church, which is of brick, that has feveral Copti inferip- 
 tions on the plaifter within : Some of the little cells in the rock have a 
 wall with a door-place before them ; one very large one feems to have 
 been the refectory. From the convent there is a very narrow dangerous 
 way cut out of the perpendicular rock, to a fmall building half way up 
 the mountain, which might be fome hermit's cell. Beyond this monaftery 
 there is a very fteep afcent up the valley; and the way for half a mile be- 
 fore we came to the convent is fo obftrudted with the great ftones that 
 have fallen down from the hills, that the way is impracticable for horfes. 
 This might be a retreat in times of perfecution, and afterwards be fre- 
 quented on account of the fine water that is here, moft of which diftils 
 in drops from the rocks, there being a fort of well they call Bir-Elaham, 
 which is the only water I met with in Egypt, that does not certainly 
 come from the Nile. Near it are feveral grottos and little cottages, probably 
 built by the Chriftians, who fometimes come and fpend a day here, and 
 have fervice in the church. I obferved the rocks of freeftone towards the 
 bottom, have every half foot a layer of black flint about an inch thick, 
 which has a white coat on each fide; and the rock in fome places hav- 
 ing fallen away, it appears like an artificial ceiling. Coming out of this 
 valley, we went on to the weft to a village call'd El-Gourney, over 
 which the hills are cut into fepulchral grottos in feveral ftories about 
 three quarters of the way up ; fome of thefe are fingle rooms, others 
 have two or three one within another; they have moftly three niches in 
 them about three feet deep, and three feet from the ground, being cut 
 up to the ceiling, in which without doubt they depofited their dead. I 
 
 obferved 
 3 
 
O N E G Y P T. 79 
 
 obferved a defccnt down from fome of them that has been fill'd up, and 
 faw many fwathes and bones lying about; feveral of the rooms were 
 painted, but without figures, except one, in which I faw an Ibis repre- 
 sented in the ceiling, and fome very odd figures on the fides, particularly 
 a man tied to the body of a four-footed beaft. 
 
 I went alfo to the weft fide of the Nile, to two antient magnificent Convent to 
 convents. We paffed through Souadgy, where a Copti invited us to take the wdl 
 coffee, and a collation of dates, treacle, and bread, and would not be re- 
 fufed ; fo laying a carpet before his door, we fat down and accepted of 
 his favour, and at our departure he invited us to return and take a lodg- 
 ing at his houfe, or to dine with him the next day. Going out of town, 
 we faw a young woman unveil'd, with brafs ornaments about her neck, 
 fitting by the way-fide. We paffed by feveral little lakes of water, made 
 by the overflowings of the Nile, and I never faw fo great a quantity of 
 wild fowl together as there was on them. We went on, and came to the 
 convent call'd Embefhnuda, on the edge of the fandy defert : There are fe- 
 veral remains of antient pillars, and ftones of red granite, in and about 
 both the convents ; fo that I conjecture the city call'd Crocodilopolis was 
 here, mention'd in this part by Ptolemy as diftant from the river ' ; and 
 they have a tradition that there was a large city here that extended from 
 one monaftery to another. This convent is built of hewn ftone, and there 
 are great marks of magnificence in both the churches; and without doubt it 
 was on the firft eftablifhment of Chriftianity in Egypt, that thefe convents 
 were built, as the work is executed according to the Greek architecture, 
 tho' after it had begun to decline: And as I faw a fculpture of an eagle 
 with a crofs before it, and another eagle on a crown, it made me con- 
 jecture that this great convent was founded by the Emprefs Helena. The 
 churches of both the convents are built on the fame model, with pillars 
 of the Corinthian order, not executed in the beft manner ; feveral of them 
 have crofles on them inftead of the rofe in the capital. It appears that 
 there was a building adjoining to the fouth fide of each of thefe churches, 
 which feems to have confifted of two ftories of cells for the monks, there 
 being in the great convent two ftories of oblong fquare windows. The 
 church is paved with red granite, and on many of the ftones are fome 
 remains of hieroglyphics ; a plan of the church of the large convent, 
 with the fuppofed apartments to the fouth of it, may be feen in the laft 
 book, with the difcourfe of the Copti church. The gates of this convent 
 feem to have been of the Doric order, and probably fome other parts, for 
 I faw in feveral places the frieze of that order. 
 
 Above a mile to the north is the other convent call'd Der-Embabfhai ; 
 there is a foffee round the convent about half a mile in compafs ; the 
 quoins and doors of the building are of ftone, moft of the reft is of brick, 
 the gate to the north is adorn'd with Corinthian pilafters, and an enta- 
 blature over, with a relief of St. George on each fide. The architecture 
 of this convent is rather richer than that of the other ; the greater part of 
 this church is fallen down, and they now only make ufe of the eaft end 
 which is enclofed. Near the weft end of this church there is a large vafe, 
 faid to have been ufed for a font, and is reprefented in the plate, with the 
 
 e EiT« |U£fo'}'H(i^ woAtf x^oxoJeiAav. Ptol. iv. c. 5. 
 
 plan 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 plan of the other convent ; it is near the weft end of the church, with- 
 out the prefent enclofure, which takes up only the fite of the church, and 
 the fuppofed apartments to the fouth. 
 
 I went firft to this convent, and as they have no place fit to carry a 
 ftranger into, they prepared a collation for us in the weft end of the 
 church ; which is what they ufually do, when any one comes they would 
 fhew a particular honour to. We walked two miles on the fand, to the 
 mountains on the weft, going by a large burial place of the Chriftians, to 
 which they are brought from all the neighbouring parts to be buried. 
 We after paffed by a fmall hillock, on which there were fome fmall ruins 
 of a building that feem'd to have been round, and it is faid was a church. 
 We faw the track of wolves in the fand, and they pretended to fhew the 
 trace of ferpents, which they fay are here fourteen or fifteen feet long. 
 There are feveral holes in the fides of the rocky mountains, which do not 
 extend far in ; I went up to fome of them, and could fee that they were 
 places of fhelter for eagles and other large birds. I obferved towards the 
 bottom of the mountains, the fame regularity as on the other fide, a layer 
 of yellow flint about an inch thick, at the diftance of every eight inches. 
 We return'd to the convent, and being a fine evening, we took the re- 
 frefhment that was prepared for us, fitting on matts abroad at the door of 
 a chapel ; they ftuck the wax lights of the church into their cakes, in- 
 ftead of candlefticks, and we went to repofe in the chapel itfelf. The 
 next morning we view'd the great convent, where the priefts entertain'd us 
 with coffee, and offer'd to kill a fheep if we would ftay and dine; but 
 we went on thro' clouds of duft to Akmim, for the wind being high, it 
 raifed the fands to fuch a degree that we could not fee before us any fur- 
 ther than in a very thick fog ; and the duft was fo exceedingly trouble- 
 fome to the eyes, that it would have been a pleafure to have had it fuc- 
 ceeded by the moft ftormy weather, attended with rain. Thefe two con- 
 vents have their lands of the Prince at an eafy price ; but they are obliged 
 to entertain the Arabs, and even the Bey of Girge when he paffes by, 
 which is a great burthen. About this place and Akmim I faw many of 
 the dome trees, the leaf of which refembles that which is call'd by the bo- 
 tanifts the palm of Brafil, with the folding or fan leaf. On enquiry I 
 find this tree as it grows here is not any where defcribed, but may be feen 
 engraved in the laft book, with fome other plants I collected in Egypt. 
 
 I happen'd to be at Akmim at Chriftmas, and fat up almoft all the 
 night of Chriftmas eve to fee the Copti ceremonies in the Roman church j 
 for tho' they become converts to the church of' Rome, they retain their 
 own ceremonies, only making fome few alterations in part of their 
 prayers, where heretics are mention'd with honour; and this is the me- 
 thod of the Greek, Armenian, and all the other eaftern churches. As foon 
 as the fervice was ended, which is not before day, I had a meffage from 
 Malim Soliman, that I muft come to his houfe and pafs the whole day 
 with him, he having invited me before to dine with him on Chriftmas day. 
 Accordingly I went to his houfe, and coffee being ferved, we all found it 
 neceffary to repofe on account of the fatigue of the night before. At 
 noon a great dinner was ferved in an open fummer-houfe, of twenty-five 
 difhes, eight or nine in a row, feveral of them being repeated three or 
 four times over ; they confifted rnoftly of rich foups, and a fort of ragoos, 
 
 roaft 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 roaft lamb, pigeons and fowls fluffed with lice, and 1 was the only per- 
 fon at the table that was ferved with a plate, or had a knife and fork ; his 
 fons-in-law, and fome of his relations waited at table ; for fons and infe- 
 rior relations in this country will at no time fit down before their parents, 
 unlefs they are defired three or four times ; a great fubordination being 
 preferved throughout all the eaft, with regard to different degrees and 
 ftations. Firft a very rich dram was ferved, and at dinner wine was gi- 
 ven round, that 1 had prefented him with, which was a very extraordi- 
 nary thing. After we had drank coffee, we walk'd out of the town to 
 his garden, where we had coffee again, and returning to his houfe, after 
 flipper he afk'd me if I would lie there or at the convent? In this man- 
 ner the day was paffed in a Turkifh vifit ; for fuch it really was, every 
 thing being far beyond whatever the Arabs pretend to, and after the 
 Turkifh manner. I went a fecond time to fee the Prince, who faid he 
 wonder'd he had feen me but once ; he defired me to make his houfe my 
 own, and command what I pleafed, and piomifed to fend a man to re- 
 move the earth from an infcription 1 defired to copy. 
 
 I agreed here for a boat and four men to go up with me to the Cata- 
 ract, and to bring me back to this place, paying them about the value of 
 half a crown a day, together with a certain quantity of corn and lentils 
 by the month, and to find them in coffee ; and in fhort as I found after- 
 wards, they expefted I fhould let them have a fhare of every thing I had ; 
 for it is the nature of the Arabs to defire whatever they fee. When we 
 had made the agreement, the Coptis who were prefent faid a prayer ac- 
 cording to their cuftom. Malim Soliman and fome other friends came 
 with me to the boat, and his fervants brought me a prefent of a large 
 baflcet of bread, fome fine cakes, and a live fheep : At parting the Coptis 
 faid a prayer, and wifhed a fafe return, that we might fay another prayer 
 together. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 From Akmim to Mensheeh, Girge, Furshout, 
 Dendyra, Ken a, Kept, Cous, and Thebes. 
 
 ON the twenty-eighth of December about noon I left Akmim, to go 
 on towards the Cataradls. In fome time we came to a ruin'd con- 
 vent of red unburnt brick, call'd Der-El-Hadid ; and oppofite to Men- 
 {heeh to another, which has four priefts in it, and is call'd Der-Embabfag, 
 -to which the Chriftians of Menfheeh come to church ; it is in a very ru- 
 inous condition, but about it there are pieces of entablatures and capitals, 
 which are proofs that there had been fome other fort of buildings there. 
 After we had view'd the church, the prieft told us there was nothing more 
 to fee; but as foon as he had a piece of money put into his hands, he 
 fhew'd us the way up fome flairs, and brought us to a draw bridge that 
 led to a fmall chapel, to which they retire in difficult times, or when the 
 Arabs break in upon them. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 y 
 
 We 
 
1 
 
 8a OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Menflieeh; We croffed over to Menfheeh on the weft, a poor ill-built town, about 
 mais, " a mile in compafs ; but there are marks here of a great city to the fouth 
 of the town, which part is call'd Embabfag, as they fay from St. Sag, a 
 bifhop of this place; and it is at prefent a bifhop's fee. I went round part 
 of the foffee of the town, which is about three quarters of a mile long to 
 the fouth, and half a mile broad from eaft to weft ; probably the antient 
 town extended alfo as far north as the prefent. All along by the river are 
 conliderable ruins of a quay, built with feveral fhort piers to receive the 
 boats into docks, where they might be fhelter'd from the weather ; and 
 in one part it is built in a femicircle, with flights of fteps in different 
 parts. I faw feveral pedeftals, cornices, and pieces of granite among the 
 ruins. This feems to have been Ptolemais, mention'd by Strabo as the 
 greateft city in the Thebaid, and had a government eftablifh'd after the 
 Greek manner ; fo that it is probable that the town was rebuilt under the 
 Ptolemies, and had its name from them. Some think it might be built 
 on the fpot of the antient city, this being mention'd as the capital of 
 this province Thinites ; Ptolemy calls it Ptolemais of Hermius ; fo that 
 it is probable Mercury was worfhippcd here in a particular manner. With- 
 in the compafs of the old town is a fmall lake that is fill'd with water 
 when the Nile rifes, and when the water evaporates, it leaves a cake of 
 fait on the top, as in many other parts of Egypt. The Prince of Akmim 
 having writ to an officer of the town to give me fome letters for Affouan, 
 I waited on him with a prefent of rice and foap, which are acceptable 
 here, and he gave me letters to his friends at Affouan, and entertain'd me 
 very civilly at his houfe. I went afterwards to fee the mafter of the veffel 
 that brought us from Cairo, who had another family here, and he had 
 invited me to his houfe in the evening, it being ftill the faft of Rame- 
 fan ; he entertain'd me likewife with coffee, and a hot fharab as they 
 call'd it, made with fugar and ginger; inftead of which, people of bet- 
 ter condition ufe cinamon, and drink it like tea, it being an extraordi- 
 nary entertainment. We fat round a pan of coals, and three Mahometans 
 fung Arab fongs, beating time with their hands, and playing on a tam- 
 bour. 
 
 On the twenty- ninth we purfued our voyage, and flopped at a proper 
 place on the eaft to take in a ftore of wood : An Arab came down from 
 the mountain on horfeback after my fervant, and approach'd the boat ; 
 but he came in to us and avoided being ftripped, as probably he would 
 have been, if the Arab had come to him. After fome time we had to 
 the eaft the high rocky hills almoft perpendicular, in which there are 
 Girge. many curious grottos. We came to the poor little convent of Girge, on 
 the eaft fide, under the rocks. To this place the Coptis of Girge come to 
 church, not being allow'd a church in the city. We went about two miles 
 further to Girge, on the weft, which is the capital of Said or upper Egypt ; 
 it is not above a quarter of a mile from the river, and may be near two 
 miles in compafs, is pretty well built, and if I miftake not, moftly of 
 burnt brick. The Sangiack, or governor of upper Egypt, who is one 
 of the Beys, refides here, and continues in this office three or four years, 
 according to the pleafure of the divan at Cairo, or as he is agreeable to 
 the people here. 1 went to the convent of the Francifcan miffionaries, 
 who pafs for phyficians, but privately have a church, and as they told me, 
 
 about 
 
O N E G Y P T. 83 
 
 about one hundred and fifty converts ; but they are often in great danger, 
 for the foldiers are very infolent, all the moft unruly janizaries being fent 
 to this place from Cairo ; fo that the miffionaries have been forced to fly 
 two or three times, and their houfe has been plunder'd. I went with one 
 of the fathers to wait on the Caimacam of the town, who is chief go- 
 vernor in the abfence of the Bey. This father was detain'd here to vifit 
 this great man, who was in a dropfy. I fhew'd him the letter I had from 
 Ofman Bey to the Sangiack of Girge, made him a prefent of two boxes 
 of French prunellas, and he gave me a letter to Aflouan, near the Cata- 
 ract. I then went to the Aga of the janizaries, who was fitting according 
 to their cuftom, under the gateway to his houfe; he received us with much 
 civility, having been a patient of the father, and gave me four letters to 
 the people above, and 1 fent him the fame prefent I had carried to the 
 Caimacam. We afterwards went to a Turk, who I was told had fome 
 fuperior command over the janizaries of the caftle of Aflouan ; I gave 
 him a letter from the Prince of Akmim, and to the prefent i made the 
 others, I added a large bafket of rice : He did not receive us very polite- 
 ly, but faid he wonder'd for what end the Franks went up to the Cata- 
 racts, and afle'd if I had a watch to fell ; which is a way they have of in- 
 timating that they want fuch a prefent : However, as foon as he faw what 
 I had brought for him, he order'd me a letter, that he faid would pro- 
 tect me as far as the three caftles ■ that is, as far as the Grand Signor's 
 dominions extend. 
 
 I went about three miles to the weft, to a village call'd El-Berbi (The Ei-Berbi, old 
 temple.) It is built on part of a raifed uneven ground, which feems to have Ab y das - 
 been the fite of an antient city : Alking them where the temple was, from 
 which it had its name, they fhew'd me a hollow ground from which pro- 
 bably all the ftones had been carried away to Girge. This I fuppofe to 
 be the antient Abydus ; which is the more probable, as it is mention'd f as 
 a city diftant from the river, on the weft fide. It was once the fecond 
 city in the Thebaid, where there was a famous palace of Memnon E ; but 
 in Strabo's time it was only a village. He fays fome were of opinion that 
 Ifmandes was the fame as Memnon, and confequently that the Labyrinth 
 was the work of Memnon. He mentions alfo a fountain here, to which 
 there was an extraordinary defcent by fteps, and likewife a canal from the 
 great river, which feems to be that which comes from Badjoura to the 
 fouth. He fays alfo that there was a wood about the canal of the Egyp- 
 tian Acanthos, which was facred to Apollo ; and poffibly the wood about 
 Furfhout may be fome remains of it k 
 
 From this place they went to the upper or great Oafis *, feven days jour-' oafi, 
 ney, probably about a hundred and forty miles from Abydus, by a way 
 almoft inacceflible by reafon of the fands ; but the place itfeif was well 
 
 f E?t« pt?oy«@r o^ot'uf «Vo JvVtwj 1, aCuiT@'. midft of the deferts 'AvaVwf, or rather 'Auarao 
 
 Ptol. iv. c. 5. * K«T«ft)J©' yug its ious o'jjtnVfcri u^ £ ^,°M VMS 
 
 s H AGuo'lgH, iv jj to Me^vovhbv ficvriXeiM Sow- lo^ucji x, dvujotii y^' KathSfi i\ Tat Toiowrag o'lxnVttr 
 
 ^»?wf xaiTSfxeuair^sm, oAaAi&ov TJJ (w'tij xolsecrxsujl 'AvaV«c 01 'AtJ/uVlioi. Strabo ii. p. 1 30. 
 
 tjmo tov Aa£u£^9-ov Epa^s*. Strabo xvii. p. 813. Stephanus takes notice of this difference of the 
 
 h Abydus Memnonis regia et Ofiris templo in- names, which confirms the opinion that the read- 
 
 clyta, vii. M. ccccc. pad", in Libyam a flumine ing of Strabo ought to be corrected to 'AvaVejf. 
 
 remota. Plin. Nat. Hijl. 1. v. c t 9. 'Auo're aSxn 'AwArV t<mW» & «, "Oumi nanSm. 
 
 For what relates to Oafis, fee Herodotus iii. Stephanus de urbibus. 
 
 c. 26. Strabo calls thefe places that are in the 
 
 water'd, 
 
8 4 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 water'd, and abounded in vines: This doubtlefs is what is call'd Elouah, 
 in fome modern accounts of Egypt, that mention it as a place where they 
 have plenty of water and palm-trees. There the caravans of Nubia firft 
 come into Egypt, after thirteen days journey; and the country is govern'd 
 by a Cafhif. It is faid the army of Cambyfes came to this place when he 
 fent them from Thebes, on the expedition to plunder the temple of Jupi- 
 ter Ammon, which was three degrees further north ; in which journey it 
 is faid the whole army was buried in the fands. To this place the Chri- 
 ftians were often banifh'd in times of perfecution ; and there is an epiftle 
 of St. Athanafius directed to them here. The fecond Oafis was to the 
 weft of the lake Maris, by fome call'd little Oafis, about one hundred 
 miles from the other: The lake mention'd as fix hours weft of the lake 
 Maris muft be too near to be that place. The third Oalis was call'd alfo 
 the little Oafis ; with regard to which, fome diftinguiih both the others by 
 the title of great. This is mention'd as at a great diftance from the others, 
 and was near the temple of Jupiter Ammon. This laft and the middle 
 Oafis muft be meant by Pliny, who fpeaks of two as being bounded by 
 the provinces of Memphis, Heracleopolis, and Arfinoe. 
 
 On the thirty-firft I fet forward in the boat from Girge, in company 
 with an Aleppine of the Roman Greek church, who lived in the convent 
 of Furfhout, and I fuppofe was a lay brother. We pafTed by the large 
 ifle of Domes, call'd fo from that tree ; a great number of which grow on 
 it. I firft faw in this voyage the large floats of earthen ware ; they are 
 about thirty feet wide, and fixty long, being a frame of palm-boughs tied 
 together about four feet deep, on which they put a layer of large jars with 
 the mouths uppermoft ; on thefe they make another floor, and then put 
 on another layer of jars, and fo a third, which laft are fo dilpofed as to 
 trim the float, and leave room for the men to go between. The float 
 lies acrofs the river, one end being lower down than the other ; towards 
 the lower end, on each fide they have four long poles, with which they 
 row and direcT: the boat, as well as forward the motion down: It is faid 
 crocodiles have fometimes taken men from thefe floats; a view of one of 
 them is reprefented in the eighth plate. A few miles to the fouth of 
 Girge is Bardis, where a great Sheik refides, who has but a fmall territory 
 here on the eaft and weft, but has a large tract of land under him up 
 higher on the eaft, extending from Kena near as high as Efne, and re- 
 fides fometimes at Cous. We flopped at a place about three miles from 
 Furlhout on the third of January, the wind not having favour'd us. We 
 mounted on affes without bridles, and only a piece of coarfe cloth tied on 
 the back for a faddle ; but we were foon met by the prefident of the con- 
 vent, who had brought horfes for us on notice of our arrival, and we 
 Furflwut. came to Furfhout, which is a poor, ill-built, ruinous town, that may be 
 about a mile in compafs. The great Sheik refides here, who is governor 
 of almoft all the country on the weft, near as far as Aflbuan ; tho' in the 
 upper parts they make themfelves almoft independent of him, and it is 
 with great difficulty that he collects his rents. The country round is very 
 pleafant, moft of the roads leading to the town being planted with acacia 
 trees. The Francifcan miffionaries have a convent here under the name of 
 phyficians, and have a large faloon where they receive their company, which 
 in private ferves them for a chapel. I waited on the fecretary of the Sheik, 
 
 2 and 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 and prefented him with five or fix pounds of coffee, and he fent a pre- 
 fent of a fheep alive to the convent to entertain me with, and after in- 
 troduced me to the Sheik himfelf, who was fitting in the corner of his 
 room by a pan of coals : He rofe both when I came and when I left him ; 
 his drefs was after the Arab manner. I gave him three letters, and the 
 fervant brought in the prefent I made him of two boxxs of prunellas, two 
 of fome other fweetmeats, and feveral vafes of glafs. He afk'd me where 
 I intended to go? I told him to the Catarad. He faid a boat of Franks 
 went up lately, and that the people faid they came to find the way into 
 the country, in order to return afterwards and take it. He then a(ked 
 me what I wanted to fee? I told him the ruin'd cities. He faid we had 
 not fuch ruins in England; and asked whether if they fhould go into our 
 country, we would permit them to fee every thing. All thefe queftions, 
 tho' a little fhocking, he ask'd me with a good-natured fmile, and told 
 me he would give me letters, and a man to go with me; fo that I might be 
 aftured I mould travel fecurely. I went to fee the Sheik's garden, planted 
 in the middle with vines, the other parts being like an orchard full of 
 the acacia, palm, oranges, lemons, and other trees. The interpreter 
 of the Arab language I had taken with me, who was an Armenian, fal- 
 ling ill, I was obliged to fend for another to Girge, where they engaged 
 a merchant of Aleppo, who came up to fell goods, to go with me ; and 
 ' on the eighth of January in the morning, the fecretary came and had his 
 carpet laid in the convent, and fent to his houfe for coffee and other re- 
 frefhments, and we took collation together, and about ten I dined with 
 the fathers ; the fecretary eating the dinner he had order'd for himfelf in 
 another part of the convent, fending us a part of it, not being accuftom'd 
 to fit at a table ; and we all fet out together and went through Badjoura 
 to the boat. The fecretary fent me a prefent of a large fheep alive, bread, 
 and fugar canes, and about two in the afternoon we fet fail, and pafied by 
 Hou to the weft, a long town on a height that feems to be made by art, 
 and extending a confiderable way to the weft ; this I conjedure might be 
 little Diofpolis of Ptolemy : We lay all night near Reifere. On the ninth 
 about midnight we arrived at Dendera, about half a mile from the river: 
 There is a great quantity of wood all round it. I went out to the skirts 
 of the town; but we did not care to go much about, becaufe it was the 
 firft day of the great Turkilh feaft Biram, after the conclufion of their 
 month of falling. Some of our men went to the mofque in a habit of 
 ceremony ufed in thefe parts, a gown of white cotton fowed up before, 
 fo that it look'd like a fhirt; and poflibly from this the ufe of the furplice 
 might take its rife, as a veft of ceremony ufed when they went any where 
 in high drefs. 
 
 I had letters to two Mahometans here, to whom I carried fome fmall 
 prefents, and they recommended me to the governor, who fent his brother 
 with me about a league to the fouth to Amara, where are the ruins of the 
 antient Tentyra, about a mile from the river, and from the mountains to 
 the fouth ; from which the name of the prefent town feems to be derived. 
 The people of Tentyra were famous for their enmity to the crocodile, fo 
 as to endeavour to deftroy that animal by all means, infomuch that they 
 often engaged in wars with the worlhippers of the crocodile, and particu- 
 larly with the people of Ombos. Some imagined, tho' it is faid falfely, 
 
 Vol. I. Z that 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 that they had a greater natural power over thefe animals than other people, 
 having encounter'd them with wonderful fuccefs at the publick games at 
 Rome. In this city they were great worfhippers of Ifis and Venus ; to 
 each of which Deities they had a temple. From the many heaps of ruins 
 that are feen, the city appears to have been large; they extend about a 
 mile from eaft to weft, and half a mile from north to fouth. The town 
 has been much frequented fince the time of its antient fplendor, for the 
 buildings are almoft fill'd up with afhes and rubbifh ; they feem to have 
 lived much in and about the temples, and to have built their little houfes 
 of unburnt brick near them ; particularly there are feveral on the top of the 
 great temple, probably erected there for coolnefs by night during the fummer 
 feafon; but as this temple is but two hundred feet long, and a hundred 
 and forty-five broad, any one may judge with what reafon it has been faid, 
 that the temple is fo large that a city was built on it. The chief remains 
 of buildings are very near to one another, as reprefented in the twenty-fixth 
 plate. What are above the line mark'd in the drawing, are placed as 
 they (land in relation to one another, except that the gate X. is further to 
 the eaft. There are two gates and four temples which feem to have rela- 
 tion to one another ; the fmall temple A. being without the gate B. might 
 not belong to the others, and is too fmall for the temple of Venus : In it 
 is the fecond capital defcribed in the plate of that architecture. This gate 
 B. is like the grand kind of gate at Thebes, which may be feen in the 
 drawings of the temple of Carrack : A fort of double frieze is mark'd out 
 in lines within it, in which one may lee fomething of the metopes and 
 triglyphs of the doric order, as reprefented in the plate of cornices and 
 entablatures. The temple C. which is lituated on the right hand, as the 
 plan of the front of it is mark'd, has over the capitals two fquare ftones ; 
 on the lower ftone a figure is reprefented as on the laft pillar in the fecond 
 plate of columns. This temple is fo near the great one, that I fhould 
 imagine it was a building that belong'd to it, as well as the temple D. 
 Over the door of the latter a hawk is cut, with the ufual cap or orna- 
 ment on his head : In one room there are two friezes, and two ftories of 
 hieroglyphics range round it, and a cornice on the outfide, with hawks 
 and wings, and a frieze, under which two Deities are cut. At the end of 
 the middle room is a niche, Ofiris is cut in it in releif, with a high cap, 
 as reprefented in the fmall brafs ftatues, but much defaced. Poflibly this 
 temple might be the habitation of a facred hawk. The grand temple it- 
 felf E. is intire, except that fome apartments which feem to have been at 
 top are deftroy'd, and fix or feven of the rooms below are intirely fill'd up. 
 There are ten flights of flairs to the top, at the fixth is the room F. 
 and near the top are the rooms G. from which there are fix fteps to the 
 top of the temple. The particular large capital of the pillars, which is re- 
 prefented in the plate of capitals, has over it a fquare ftone, with a com- 
 partment of reliefs on each fide, in the beft tafte and workmanfhip of any 
 I have feen in Fgypt, and are exquifitely fine, infomuch that I conclude 
 they muft have been executed by one of the beft Greek fculptors. At 
 the ends of the grand room are four ftories of hieroglyphics, in feven 
 compartments, each having two or three figures of men in it, fome of 
 which are defaced. There are alfo four ftories of hieroglyphics on the 
 outfide; and probably there were five both within and without, before the 
 
 ground 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 87 
 
 ground was raifed. Coloffal figures are cut on the outfide of the fouth 
 end, five of them together, and two more beautiful than the others at each 
 corner. Round the top of this building there are feveral fpouts, with an or- 
 nament over them of the head and fhoulders of the fphynx: This, no doubt, 
 was the temple of Ifis, as may be concluded from the capitals which are 
 fhaped like the head of that Deity. The gate X. of the fame kind as the 
 other, ftands, with regard to the temple, as it is reprefented ; on the ftones 
 that cover it are cut five of the birds Ibis. A third gate in the fame ftyle 
 is fo far to the eaft fouth eaft of the temple, that it is not reprefented with 
 the other plans : It is all over adorn'd with hieroglyphics, as well as the 
 others, and poffibly might lead to the temple of Venus, which we may 
 fuppofe has been deftroy'd ; and coming to it from the river, the temple 
 of lfis might be faid to be behind it as defcribed by Strabo. 
 
 Having view'd all thefe fine remains of antiquity with the greateft fa- 
 tisfa&ion, I return' d to the town ; and at parting, my friends fent me a pre- 
 fent of a lamb ; and the governor's brother came to the boat for his prefent, 
 which was a basket of rice, fome coffee, and foap : As there is plenty of 
 wood here, this place fupplies moft part of Egypt with charcoal. We 
 purfued our voyage with a favourable wind, and came up with Kena, a Kena, Cccne 
 fmall town on a raifed ground about a mile from the river, which I fup- orNea P olls - 
 pofe to be the antient Casne or Neapolis, mention'd both by Herodotus and 
 Ptolemy \ After Tentyra, Strabo mentions Typhonia ', which I do not Typhonia. 
 find in any other author: It is probable it had its name from fome ceremo- 
 nies perform'd to fhew their deteftation of Typhon ; but whether it were 
 here or on the weft fide of the river, there are no grounds to determine, 
 only that he mentions the canal that goes to Coptos immediately after it, 
 which is near this place; and I took notice of the canal which comes in 
 and makes the ifle of Kena. This city at prefent is only remarkable for 
 making the belt black earthen ware in Egypt, which is very light and much 
 efteem'd: They could never be prevail'd on to make the vafes with broad 
 bottoms, to ftand without danger of falling ; fo that the people are obliged 
 to have wooden frames to fet them on. A little higher on the weft, we 
 paffed by Etouerat, where thofe large jars are made which are carried 
 down on floats, on which we faw the people placing them for the voyage. 
 We went on and came up with Kept, a village at fome diftance from the Kept; 
 river; it is the antient Coptos, faid to be fo call'd in the Greek, becaufe Coptos. 
 Ifis was here when fhe heard of the death of Ofiris, and for grief cut off 
 one of the locks of her hair. This city was inhabited both by Egyptians 
 and Arabians. The Nile below the city running to the weft, this was the 
 firft convenient place for carrying on the trade by the Red fea, the river 
 being nearer to it here than at other places below ; and the difficult navi- 
 gation of the Red fea to the north caufed the trade for the merchandices 
 of India and Arabia to take this channel. The antients fpeak of the Red 
 fea as fix or feven days journey diftant, tho' the people at prefent fay it is 
 only four days journey: The former feem to be nearer the truth, tho' 
 Pliny feems to make the diftance much too great from Coptos to Beronice, 
 in faying it is two hundred fifty-eight miles. The Itinerary alfo makes it 
 
 ' ''OttioJsu Je tS vew tiic 'A^oJiT^/ltri^o's e?<» i'ejov. 1 eTtas Tutpafvaat x«AKjwev«, ji, v «f Ko7r7a\ Jiwfu|' 
 
 Strabo xvii. p. 815. stc'aiv koiv^v 'Aiyvnlluv n ^ 'A&Gw. Strabo ibid. 
 
 k K«*^ sreAif. Ptol. iv. c. 5. 
 
 near 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 near the fame diftance, which by fuppofing a miftake in every diftance, I 
 have reduced to about one hundred. As Strabo makes Berenice the 
 neareft port on the Red fea, and the Itinerary gives an account of the road 
 between thefe two places ; it muft be fuppofed that Ptolemy is miftaken 
 in his latitudes, in making Beronice fo much further fouth, and Myos fo 
 much more to the north. Strabo "> alfo, who was in thefe parts, was in- 
 form'd that Coptos was near to Beronice; in which it is the more unlikely 
 he fhould be miftaken, becaufe he fays the port of Myos was then the 
 more frequented ; Beronice being a bad port, as Coilir is at prefent, which 
 is the port that was ufed in the middle ages, and probably is Beronice ; 
 there being another bad port north of it call'd old Coflir, which from the 
 fituation, one may conjecture to be Myos. Pliny " mentions Juliopolis as 
 two miles from Alexandria, probably the port on the lake where this trade 
 was carried on, and fays that from Juliopolis to Coptos, the voyage of 
 three hundred and three miles was perform'd in twelve days, when the 
 northerly winds blew. Ptolemy Philadelphus firft made a good road 
 from Coptos to Beronice, and fixed inns at proper diftances : Wells alfo 
 were dug, and cifterns made to preferve the little rain water that fell ; fo 
 that the ftations where they flopped had the general name of Hydrea, or 
 watering places. The journey before was ufually perform'd by night, car- 
 rying water on their camels, and directing their courfe by the ftars. The 
 trade continued on this way in the middle ages to Coflir, till it was inter- 
 rupted by the depredations of the Arabs : They have notwithftanding 
 fometimes fent corn this way, but very little of the eaftern goods have 
 lately come by this road. In the early times of Chriftianity, this city be- 
 came famous for the great refort of Chriftians to it in times of perfecution ; 
 and it is laid that they retired to the grottos of the neighbouring moun- 
 tains, tho' I could not be inform'd that there were any near. This was 
 the firft rife of the name of Coptis, which it is faid the Mahometans gave 
 in derifion to the Chriftians in Egypt. This town having revolted againft 
 Dioclefian, probably on account of his perfecutions, he caufed it to be 
 utterly deftroy'd. 1 went with letters I had to two Mahometans from the 
 Prince of Akmim. Going through the ruins of the old town, half a mile 
 to the left to the village call'd Kalalikeman, they fhew'd me all the ruins 
 of this great city, the ground of which is much raifed. About the mid- 
 dle of the city I faw fome fquare pillars, and the remains of a fine en- 
 tablature reprefented in the plan of entablatures, all of red granite. At 
 a village to the north are the remains of a fmall temple much deftroy'd ; 
 a plan of which is at A. in the twenty-feventh plate. To the eaft of the 
 high ground of the old city is a large bafin, as of a lake or pond, about 
 three hundred paces long, and two hundred broad ; to the north of it 
 there is a deeper hole, in which there was foul water, but I could not 
 perceive that it was fait. Both thefe were doubtlefs rcfervoirs of water for 
 the ufe of the city, which was convey 'd by the canal, and poffibly they 
 might bring their veflels into the large bafin. The canal runs to the fouth 
 of thefe, and to the fouth and weft of the old town : Over it are the re- 
 mains of two bridges • one at the fouth weft corner of the town is almoft 
 intire, and has five piers ; it is not built with arches, but large ftones are 
 
 ™ See Strabo ibid. See Strabo ibid. 
 
 n Lib. vi. c. 23. 
 
 S laid 
 
xxvn.>. 8e 
 
 je zc jt 40 j-g J e 7c fio 00 saJ 
 
 : i \ 1 1 1 I I ==p=t 
 
 C^Plan and IZ/iny/ito/nTempie at- Cons .Plans ^Temple WBridge <aS Kepht, 
 and ofa.Temy\e and Gate of Thebes f.vtof Carnack, W<z« Upright Gale . 
 
ON EGYPT. 89 
 
 laid from one pier to another. The piers are built in fuch manner as if 
 floodgates had been fix'd between them to keep in the water when the 
 Nile abated, as may be feen at B. The other bridge is at the fouth eaft 
 corner: Near it I favv feveral Sarcophagus's, on the lids of which is a 
 mezzo-releivo of a man like a mummy: There are many of them likewife 
 about a rifing ground on the canal a mile further, where probably there 
 was a church or convent; for I imagined they were Chriftian tombs, the 
 antient Pagan Egyptians not depoiiting their dead fo near their cities. The 
 people find here a great number of medals, and fmall ftatues of earthen 
 ware, tho' but few intire, and alfo fome pieces of rock, chryftal, and 
 fometimes precious ftones, and particularly the root or refufe of emerald 
 in great abundance; it is of a pale green, and they have an emerald at 
 Cairo which they call the emerald or Said, which is not very tranfparent, 
 nor of a bright green. Strabo fays there were mines of emeralds and other 
 precious ftones here, in which the Arabs work'd. Ptolemy alfo fpeaks of 
 the mountain of emeralds in thefe parts, and the mines of emerald are 
 mention'd in the map of the patriarch, and they fay the Arabs have dug 
 for them ; but as they belong to the Grand Signor, they are very well fa- 
 tisfied that they mould not be known, becaufe he would have the profit, 
 and the inhabitants might be obliged to work in the mines for a very fmall 
 conlideration. 
 
 We went on and paffed by Nequade to the weft, in which town there Ncquade. 
 are many Chriftians, and it is a bifhop's fee, the Diocefe extending to the 
 confines of Egypt; for above this place there are very few Chriftians in any 
 parts, except at Efne and the convent beyond it. I was inform'd that 
 there were two or three monafteries near this town. 
 
 We came to the port of Cous, and rid two miles through a flat coun- Cous. 
 try full of dome- trees, to the miferable town built of unburnt brick, which 
 was the antient little Apollinopolis, call'd by Antonine a village ; it is on 
 an artificial height, but there are no remains except of one fmall temple ; 
 a plan and an upright of one fide is in the twenty-feventh plate at C. and 
 there is an infcription on it, to be feen with the other Greek infcriptions 
 in Egypt put up by Cleopatra and Ptolemy in honour of the great Deity, 
 and the other Deities worfhipped in that temple. 
 
 As I was viewing the temple, one of the Sheik's officers, dreffed as a 
 Turk, came and asked me with great civility to drink coffee, but it be- 
 ing late I declined it. Thefe great Sheiks have often many Turks in their 
 fervice, who having been on the vanquifh'd fide, have been obliged to fly 
 from Cairo in time of public infurredlions, which frequently happen. I was 
 told this Sheik had feveral of thefe people with him, and I concluded this 
 perfon was one of them. This is the only antiquity to be feen at Cous. I 
 went to the Chriftian fecretary of the great Sheik to be introduced by him, 
 and made him a fmall prefent. We fat down on a mat in the open court, 
 where the horfes were tied, and had very indifferent fare ferved to us; a 
 fort of ill-tafted feed mix'd with oyl, onions, bread, and water ; and 
 finifhing with coffee, he went with me to the great Sheik, who is the fame 
 that commonly refides at Bardis. He is a young man of a Mulatto com- 
 plexion, and a large black eye.: Being laid down to repofe, he was in a 
 fmall room on his bed on the fopha, having a blue fhirt over fome other 
 garments, one of his officers fitting by him. I went up on the fopha, and 
 
 Vol. I. A a deliver d 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 delivered my letters from the Prince of Akmim, and an officer of the 
 janizaries at Girge, and then my prefent, as ufual, was laid before him ; 
 a bag of rice, tobacco in the leaf, Joppa foap, and a pair of fuch red fhoes 
 as they wear. I told him I delired a letter to fee the antiquities of 
 Carnack and Luxerein, which he order'd to be prepared, and defired us 
 to go and drink coffee with his fecretary. I went to my boat, the fecre- 
 tary fending me a prefent of a fheep. I left my interpreter to bring the 
 letters, who came the next morning and faid he was at the river in the 
 evening, but could not find the boat ; for the men hearing fome people at 
 the water fide, had put off into the middle of the river. The Sheik ad- 
 vifed me by him to fee Carnack and Luxerein now, and not in my return 
 as I propofed, for that he was going to encamp there, and I fhould fee 
 every thing with greater fafety. There is one little church in this town, 
 and towards the mountains there is a mean convent call'd Aboukter, that 
 has only three priefts in it. On the twelfth we went on with a man the 
 Sheik had fent to go with me, and flopping oppofite to Zenieh, where 
 the Sheik of Carnack lives, the man went to the camp of the great Sheik, 
 who fent us two men to guard the boat by night. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 Of Thebes. 
 
 T WENT on the thirteenth to the Sheik at Zenieh, with a letter I had 
 I from his fuperior, and the Sheik of Furfhout; and making him a pre- 
 fent, he was very civil, and took care to make a return by a prefent 
 of a fheep. I went to Carnack, which is part of the antient Thebes, 
 where there are the ruins of a moft magnificent temple. I began to mea- 
 fure the firft gate I came to on the north, and to take an account of it 
 in my book. The man the Sheik of Furfhout had fent with me, who had 
 no authority here, pretended to tell me I fhould not venture to do fo, be- 
 fore I had been with the great Sheik, who had encamp'd near the river 
 to the north. I order'd him to fhew me the way to him, and they con- 
 dueled me to the village of Carnack, where I found the Sheik I had been 
 with in the morning, who fent a man with me to fee the ruins ; and the 
 fecretary came whom the great man had fent to go along with me. I 
 afked him if I might meafure and write down my obfervations. He told 
 me I might do what I pleafed, and ftay'd with me two or three hours j 
 and the people of the village came round me, when they obferved I was 
 meafuring the temple. This firft day I had not taken care to have any 
 provifions brought, and defiring the man that was fent with me to bring 
 me fome bread, he went and brought me of fuch fare as they have, and 
 I dined in the temple ; and having order'd my boat to lie under the en- 
 campment of the Sheik, I waited on him in his tent. He ask'd if we 
 would not fup with his fecretary ; which we excufed, being fatigued, 
 and went to our boat. Thefe encampments are in the regular manner of 
 an army -. In the middle was the large green tent of the Sheik, who fat in 
 a corner of it, with three or four of his officers fitting by him ; they go 
 3 and 
 
O N E G Y P T. 90 
 
 and encamp about in this manner all over their territories, to get in their 
 tributes or rents, which are paid in kind. The fecretary came with me 
 to the boat, and came into it, and took fome little refrefhments. I con- 
 tinued here viewing the temple as long as I pleafed, and order'd the men 
 to provide a dinner for me in the boat and bring it - to the temple, which 
 they did every day. The cavalcade of the Sheik paffing by, a great num- 
 ber of them rid into the temple and talk'd to me; and one day a fingle 
 man on horfeback came and told me that there was a large cavern under 
 the temple, where often a great number of rogues lay hid, and bid me take * 
 care, feeming to defign to intimidate me. The Sheik's fon of the place came 
 to me, and conducted me to a part of the temple inhabited by the women, 
 and giving them notice to keep out of the way, I went in, and view'd it, 
 with all manner of liberty. . One day the Caia or firft officer of the Sheik 
 came and dined with me, and I made him a prefent ; which he return'd, 
 by making me a prefent of a lamb. 
 
 The great and famous city of Thebes was on both fides of the river ; Thebes, 
 fome fay it was built by Ofiris, others by Bufiris the fecond of that name, 
 and that it was about eighteen miles round p , others fay it extended ten 
 miles in length q. On the weft fide was the part call'd Memnonium, from 
 the temple and ftatue of Memnon there. In the time of Strabo, the city 
 feems to have been chiefly on the eaft fide, and was call'd the great Diof- Diofcolk 
 polis, on account of the famous temple built there to the Deity they 
 chiefly worfliipped, which probably was the temple of Carnack. About 
 a league fouth of it is Luxercin, where are remains of another grand build- 
 ing, which was probably the temple or monument of Ofymanduas; and 
 the antient Diofpolis feems to have been between thefe two temples, as the 
 grand entrances to both are that way. The hundred gates of Thebes are 
 mention'd by many authors, and are commonly thought to have been gates 
 of the city ; but there are no figns of walls round it, nor were wall'd towns 
 common in Egypt. And as there are remains of fuch fine gates about their 
 temples, it might be thought that thefe might give occafion, as Diodo- 
 rus « obferves, for this obfervation of the poet; but as he mentions that two 
 hundred chariots could be fent out of them with armed men, this may be 
 thought not to agree fo well with the gates of the temples, unlefs we iup- 
 pofe that they join'd in fome folemn ads of religion before they went out 
 to war : Others ■ however think they might be rather fo many palaces of 
 Princes or great men of the city, who could each of them on any exi- 
 gency, fend out fo many chariots to the war ; and this interpretation feems 
 to be countenanced by the poet, who immediately after he has mention'd 
 the great wealth of their houfes, fpeaks of their hundred gates, and of 
 the chariots and men that could be fent out of them. Carnack is a very 
 poor village, in which the people have moftly built their cottages among 
 the ruins to the fouth of the temple. There were four remarkable temples 
 
 p Ton sr£g>'£oAou au/Vou t/Vof>;f aoS-(W saSlw «AA« nrtAAa ji, ^sj-aAa ErsoTrtjAiWa tuv I'eawv, ut 
 
 ix«T0v H, riosapj*.a*\*. Diodorus i. p. 42. hdlo^hiJlV UUfM&Mh Xtt&*Bi»* JToAv'tuA**. Diido- 
 
 15 4*WW<a 3 /£V>i tk [XiyiSvc owjiii \tt\ dyioy,Kot1x dorus i. p. 43. 
 
 raXnt to pf-xo;' ki fk& wAflw. K«i Tss'rw* St roA- 6 Thcbre, ut Homero dictum eft, centum por- 
 
 Aa ntfrnigMm iUy&i'egr' & o-uvoutHTo** tas, five, ut alii aiunt, centum aulas habent, to 
 
 S ifn iv tjj Agj&ft i» iwt£ >J woAif. Strabo tidem olim principum domos: Soiitalque fingu- 
 
 xvii. p. 816. Jas, ubi negotium exegerat, dena armatorum mii- 
 
 K«i p1fo!roA<5 Aiof a-oAi; ptyaAtf. Ptol. iv. c. 5. lia effundere. Pmpwius Mela 1. xi. c. 9. 
 
 "Evjcj Si (peco-iv a' n-JA«f iv.mii i 
 
 at 
 
OBS E RVA T IONS 
 
 at Thebes; and this is, without doubt, the temple mentioned by Diodorus 
 Siculus, as of a moft extraordinary lize, though in no part incredible to 
 any one, who has examined the great remains of this ftupendous building, 
 the ruins of which extend near half a mile in length, and he computes 
 it to have been above a mile and a half in circumference ; he fays alfo, 
 that the height of the temple was forty five cubits, and that the walls of 
 it were twenty-four feet thick, in both which refpects it will appear, that 
 this temple, in fome parts of it, exceeds the account Diodorus gave, though 
 it has been looked on as an extravagant relation 'j a plan of this temple, 
 and a fecfion of the middle part of it, and a view of the gates may be 
 feen in the twenty-eighth plate. 
 
 In order to underftand the nature of this temple, and of Egyptian temples 
 in general, I have below given Strabo's " defcription of them. There are 
 no lefs than eight grand entrances to the temple, to three of which there 
 were avenues of fphynxes of a great length, two of them having fixty fta- 
 tues on each fide, according to the manner of building with the Egyp- 
 tians, who commonly had before their temples what the Greeks called the 
 Dromos, marked A, about a hundred feet wide, and three or four times 
 as long, adorned in this manner. After this, to one of the entrances are 
 four grand gateways, B C D E, that lead to the temple j they are about 
 thirty-five feet deep, one hundred and fifty in length, and muft, before 
 the ground was railed, be from fifty to fixty feet high; there is an en- 
 trance to them at one end, and a flight of flairs that leads up to the open- 
 ing, over the door in the middle; for thefe buildings are open in the 
 middle, as may be feen in the view of them : From this part there is another 
 flight of fteps, up the middle of the other fide of the building that lands 
 at the top : Thefe buildings leflen very much every way from the bottom 
 to the top, like a pyramid ; for which reafon I call them the pyramidal 
 gateways. It appears from three medals that have been found, that they 
 put ftatues over the door- place; in one of them I met with in Egypt, 
 feems to be an eagle ; in another I have feen two canopufes, with the lote 
 flower on the heads of them ; and in the drawing of a fourth, a ftatue 
 with a pike in the left hand, and fomething in the right. The firft of 
 thefe four gates B is of red granite, finely polifhed, and beautifully adorned 
 with hieroglyphics, in four compartments in the height of it on each 
 fide of the gate without, and three in the infide, in each of which are 
 the figures of two men, bigger than the life, and of exquifite workman- 
 fhip; further on each fide are coloflal figures, with hieroglyphics under 
 them, which are in height about fifteen feet above ground, and in this 
 
 * Tet7o(owv j/oco hgw xzlu<TKWU<Sulm to\te x»AA@" 
 it, to jUej-eO^ SttufAixsuv, iv eivatt to zrctAfluoTOiov 
 TgicrxajcTexoo 5&Slm tijv uri^i^^ov, wtdt Si Xj tet- 
 TUp^.-Aivlu to liij'©'* ejjtooi Si Tfvlx/fm STO- 
 
 Su!/ TO EffACST©* TW T01%O!V. DiodORlS 1. p. 43. 
 
 u Strabo gives this defcription of the Egyptian 
 temples. 
 
 Their temples are built in this manner. 
 
 At the firft entrance is a court or avenue, 
 paved with ftone, about one hundred feet wide, 
 and three or four hundred feet long, and fome- 
 times more ; this is called the Dromos, o' Aoo'/*©*. 
 On each fide are fphynxes, in two rows, about 
 thirty feet apart. After this, is one or more large 
 veftibles, ™ «- S oVva,oi. After that is the temple, 
 
 0' »swf, which confifts of a large court or ante-tem- 
 ple, a and the inner nioft temple, o' e-t;*;?, 
 which is not very large, and in which there, is 
 no fculpture, or at lealt, if there is, 'tis of fome 
 beaft, but never of the human figure. At the 
 further end of the ante-temple are fort of wings, 
 of the height of the temple, the walls being as 
 far diftant from one another, as the breadth of 
 the foundation of the walls of the temple ; and 
 are fo built, as to incline towards one another for 
 about feventy-five or ninety feet in height ; on 
 thefe walls, very large figures arc cut, much like 
 the Hetrufcan and Greek works. Strabo xvii. 
 p. 805. 
 
 latter 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 latter manner the others are adorned, without fuch compartments as are in 
 the granite gateway. On each fide of thefe gates there feem to have been 
 coloflal ftatues ; on the outfide of the firft, is a red granite ftatue on one 
 fide, and on the other, a ftatue of a fort of granite compofed of fmall peb- 
 bles; one alfo remains within, of white marble, the head being off; it has 
 round the middle a belt, with a fhort dagger ftuck into it. Thefe ftatues 
 have each of them in one hand, the crofs with a handle, which is faid to 
 reprefent the four elements; I took fome meafures from one, and found 
 the hand to be fixteen inches broad, and the head five feet fix inches long; 
 on the back of the ftone, behind their heads, is a tortoife, cut in an oval, 
 and fome other hieroglyphics about it ; on the other fide are fragments of 
 fuch another ftatue. I faw likewife on the outfide of the gate, many 
 pieces of a rough fort of red marble, like porphyry, and of that yellow 
 fpangling marble which is imitated at Venice. The next gate, C. is very 
 much ruined, but has only two ftories of coloffal figures to the fouth, and 
 one to the north. The third gate, D. has hieroglyphics all round, and coloflal 
 figures of men ; here likewife are remains of a ftatue of white marble, the 
 head of which has a ferpent work'd on its cafque,- it is five feet diameter, 
 and meafured four feet and a half from the lower part of the neck to the 
 top of the head. The fourth gateway, E. is now a heap of ruins ; before 
 it are fome pieces of a red granite ftatue, the trunk of which I found to 
 be feven feet and an half broad. To the eaft of thefe gates is the building, 
 F. and alfo a large pond, G. which probably was a refervoir of the Nile 
 water, for the ufe of the temple: Thefe gateways were called by the Greeks 
 ante-gates or veftibules, (to otsv>m.) From them walls were built, that extend- 
 ed not only to the other gates, to make the entire enclofure of the temple, 
 but alfo to enclofe the particular courts between the gates and the temple. 
 At the entrance within the enclofure of the temple, towards the obelisks, 
 are ruins of a coloflal ftatue, of red granite. And though this entrance 
 from the fouth was fo grand, yet it was the way only to the fide of the 
 temple, the fituation of the ground not permitting fuch an entrance to 
 the front, where every thing elfe is executed in the grandeft manner ; 
 which I fhall defcribe in its place. 
 
 About a hundred and fifty paces to the weft is another fuperb entrance, 
 with the fame kind of avenue of fphynxes leading to fuch a gateway H, 
 as is reprefented by the upright, Z. adorned likewife with hieroglyphics. 
 A hundred and eighty-three paces from this, is a grand pyramidal gateway, 
 I, and adjoining to it is the large building K. divided into feveral parts, 
 and feems to have continued on to the temple. I got admiflion into it by 
 the particular favour of the Sheik, though it is the habitation of the wo- 
 men. To the eaft of this is another entrance, L. to what I call the ante-tem- 
 ple, M, which is to the welt of the grand building; as there is likewife on 
 the north fide of that court at N. A fifth entrance O. is the temple itfelf 
 on the north fide, where there feem'd to be confiderable buildings, now 
 almoft entirely buried by the rubbifh, which was probably thrown there from 
 fome village that formerly was near. A fixth entrance, P. is alfo from 
 the north, where every thing likewife is buried, and is oppofite to the firft 
 grand entrance mentioned to the fouth. A feventh, Q. is further to the eaft 
 on the fame fide ; and another oppofite to it, R. It is probable there was 
 an entrance alfo further on at S, for near it is a grand gate ; and be- 
 Vol. I. B b tween 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 tween that and the temple, ruins of great buildings, which I fuppofe led to 
 the temple, though by reafon of the ruinous ftate of that part of it, I 
 could not fix the entrance. It is probable there was another oppofite to it, 
 and that the twelfth entrance, T. was at the eaft end, at fome diftance 
 from the great eaftern building. This grand gateway appears not to have 
 been finifhed, and it is from this to the great pyramidal entrance in the 
 weft front I am going to defcribe, that I fuppofe the temple muft be near half 
 a mile in length. The grand entrance V. to the weft, which may be called, 
 at pleafure, either a gateway or a front to the great court before the temple, 
 is the moft magnificent of the kind that probably was ever built in Egypt ; 
 and it may be a mark of its antiquity that it is built in the moft fimple 
 and plain manner, without any hieroglyphics or other ornaments ; very 
 much refembling what we call the ruftic ; it is forty feet broad, the bot- 
 tom part being a folid wall of that thicknefs. There feem to have been 
 flairs up to the lower windows, from the north end, where at prefent it 
 is much ruined, fo as that one may eafily go up ; and probably there 
 was a paffage to the other fide over the gateway, now a heap of ruins, 
 from whence the flairs might be continued up to the top, as they 
 are in other buildings of the like nature; for in the front there are two 
 ftories of eight fmall windows ; the upper ftory is near the top, which 
 is fo ruined in moft parts, that at a diftance they appear fomething like 
 battlements. Within this is a large open court, having on each fide, at the 
 the firft entrance, a terrace, W. eighty feet broad, and fix feet above the 
 ground, as it is now raifed, to which I fuppofe there were fteps up from the 
 colonnade which is dn each fide of this ante-temple. Thefe pillars have 
 fquare capitals ; and on each fide of the middle walk, to the inner part of 
 the temple, there was a very grand colonnade of pillars, above forty feet high, 
 and eight feet diameter, with large capitals like a vafe, only worked with 
 fome figures in lines : On the top of thefe capitals is a fquare ftone, as 
 for a pedeftal to place ftatues on : At the further end of thefe pillars, are 
 two colloffal ftatutes, X. of red granite, on pedeftals four feet wide, and 
 fix feet long; the heads are broke off, and the ftatues much disfigured: 
 The pilafters behind the ftatues are adorned with hieroglyphics, and fo alfo is 
 an oval below the navel of theftatue. Strabo fays, that within the gateways, 
 was the temple, which confifted of the ante-temple, and the temple properly 
 fo called, or the inner temple, which feems to be the moft facred part of it: 
 What I have defcribed muft be the ante-temple; what follows in the de- 
 fcription of the Egyptian temples, is fomewhat difficult; fork is faid, that 
 at the further end * of the ante-temple are a fort of wings, of the height 
 of the temple, the walls being as far diftant from one another, as the 
 foundation of the walls of the temple, and fo built, as to incline towards 
 one another for feventy-five or ninety feet in height \ In this manner 
 the walls, almoft intirely ruined, feem to be built between this ante-temple 
 
 w So the word t^oWou, feems to mean, at to be much narrower at top than at bottom : 
 
 the further end, or advanc'd before it, that is, Poffibly the meaning may be, that each wall 
 
 between the ante-temple and the inner temple, d ; was built in fuch a manner on the outfide, with 
 
 fo thefe words, though very obfcure, feem to be a plain, inclining the one towards the other. 
 undtrftood:"En&TUt<-w&%a&u?zgoiovli,KKli7iivt>jti<rxs * I meafured the pyramidal top of the great 
 
 ^e«f*fAaf et^wk 5TEk7(i'xok1« » l£ifxov7<6. This obelifk, which was fallen, and found it to be ten 
 
 may be in the manner of the pyramidal gates de- feet nine inches long, and that 'twas five feet nine 
 
 fcribcd, in which the walls incline inwards, fo as inches fquare, at the bottom of the pyramid. 
 
 and 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 and the inner temple, on each fide of that grand entrance, Y, which may 
 be feen in the plan, and has more of the beautiful magnificence in it, than 
 any other building I ever faw, the door itfelf being very high, and yet 
 in a juft proportion; and the walls on each fide of the paflage, as well as 
 the doors, are adorned with moft beautiful hieroglyphics, and figures of 
 men, in fix compartments, above nine feet high and twelve wide, every 
 compartment having the figures of three men in it ; thefe buildings in 
 the temple being defcribed to have been adorned with fculptures of men, 
 after the Greek and Hetrufcan manner. Beyond this, is the inner temple 
 itfelf, a, in which there are fixteen rows of pillars one way, and eighteen 
 the other, the two middle rows are eleven feet diameter, the others 
 eight, with capitals of a fquare ftone only on them; over the two 
 middle rows, the temple was higher than in the other parts, having over 
 the fpace between the two pillars, a fort of windows with twelve lattices 
 of ftone in each of them, made fomething like the holes in the walls of 
 cities, to fpy out at, and to annoy the enemy with their arms; thefe feem 
 to be defigned to convey light into the temple, which is fomething ex- 
 traordinary, there being rarely any windows in the Egyptian buildings. 
 Every part of this temple is covered, infide and out, with hieroglyphics 
 and other reprefentations, in a very extraordinary manner ,- and it is of 
 this part of the temple that our author feems to fpeak, when he fays, 
 that they put no ftatues in it, nor any human figure, but fculptures of a- 
 nimals; and in fome other temples I have obferved, that the human body 
 has always on it the head of fome bird or beaft : This mull be underftood 
 of the infide of the temple ; for the outfide of this building is beautified 
 in a very grand manner, chiefly on the north fide, where there are 
 reprefentations of battles with horfes and chariots, one of which I obferved 
 was drawn by flags. At the other end of this inner temple there was an 
 entrance, b. now in ruins, and without it, what I took to be a raifed terrace, 
 c. about thirty feet wide, the front of which has carved on it two barks 
 with covers on them, like the Venetian gondolas ; at one end of it is a fculp- 
 ture, refembling a ray of the fun; in the boat, men are reprefented 
 working it along with their poles, and one ftands towards the head of the 
 bark, and receives the homage of the others. Here is the grand entrance 
 defcribed from the fouth, and on each fide of the entrance into the temple 
 itfelf, at the eaft end of it, are two obelifks, d, having only one column of 
 hieroglyphics, and are fixty-three feet four inches high, and fix feet fquare. 
 Further to the eaft, are two other obelifks, e. feven feet fix inches 
 fquare, and feventy-three feet high ; the obelifk to the fouth is fallen 
 down; they have three columns of hieroglyphics all the way down: All 
 thefe obelisks, are of red granite. A little further, a wall is built 
 on each fide to the north and fouth ; and on the weft fide of it are feve- 
 ral coloflal bulls or half ftatues at f. very much defaced. Continuing on 
 along the middle to the eaft, we came at length to the fmall granite 
 room, g. with a room on each fide of it, which feems to have been a place 
 of more than ordinary fandity, and the entrance to it is adorned with a very 
 particular fort of fquare columns ; one of them I obferved, was a knot of 
 three fuch pillars as are reprefented at h. It is poffible this granite room 
 was the place allotted for the beautiful noble virgin, that was annu- 
 ally 
 
 3 
 
jj6 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ally confecrated to the Deity in a very ftrange manner y . All along on 
 each fide are feveral apartments much ruin'd, which might ferve both for 
 the priefts and for the beafts they kept for facrifice. And about a hundred 
 and fixty feet to the eaft is another large building z. confifting of feveral 
 fmall apartments, on each fide of a fpacious colonnade, as if for the offi- 
 cers of the temple. To the north, without this enclofure, are ruins of 
 buildings, with the grand gate, i. before them, which feem to have led 
 to the temple. Further to the eaft of the other building, are figns of a 
 colonnade, k. almoft buried in the ground ; to the eaft of this is the 
 mod eaftern grand gate, T. mention'd as unfinifh'd, where the enclofure 
 of this vaft temple ends 
 Temple eaft The Sheik's fon offer'd to go with me to a temple four miles to the eaft 
 k of Carnack, and he came early in the morning to the boat with horfes, and 
 laying a carpet on the bank of the river, I entertain'd him with coffee, 
 and we fet forward towards the temple ; the fon alfo of the Caia, or 
 fteward of the great governor went along with us. The plain to the eaft 
 naturally runs into a coarfe grafs, much like a rufh, great part of it lying 
 wafte ; and where it is fown, the ground is laid in broad low hillocks, 
 round which there are fmall irregular channels, the corn not being fown 
 at top of thefe hillocks, but only near the channels, in order, I fuppole, that 
 it may be the more eafily water'd ; for men raife the water out of the 
 Nile into a fmall canal, which conveys it to all parts. I omitted to enquire 
 how they cultivated the land, which is probably only by harrowing in the 
 corn. About four miles eaft of Carnack, are the remains of a temple 
 fronting to the north weft, a plan of which may be feen in the twenty- 
 feventh plate at D. with a plan of the grand gate, E. which ftands in that 
 manner to the temple, and an upright of it, F. It is about two hundred 
 feet north of the temple, and is adorn'd with four compartments of hiero- 
 glyphics. The walls in the front of the temple between the pillars, are 
 about feven feet high, cover'd alfo with hieroglyphics. Among thofe on 
 the gate, a perfon is reprefented offers fomething that is round, it may 
 be fome fruit, to a perfon fitting in a chair; another offering beafts. 
 The heads, legs and arms of the figures are defaced. The pillar on 
 each fide of the door is that beautiful one Numb, i r . in the fe- 
 cond plate ot the architecture of Egyptian columns; the other pillars are 
 of Numb. 7. of the firft of thofe plates; but being fo near to one ano- 
 ther, I fuppofe they were without bafes. At the further end, where I 
 conjecture there was a door on each fide, I faw the remains of a fquare 
 piliar of red granite, which might be the ruins of a door-cafe. All 
 this temple is very much deftroy'd, except the front, which is not perfect. 
 The grand gate is intire ; and I faw a fphynx near it about four feet long. 
 It is probable the antient Thebes extended formerly to this place. The 
 
 y Strabo xvii. p. S16. a pillar fomewhat rcfembling the Corinthian order. 
 
 z About the gates of the temple I took parti- A peacock on another, with the bell capital ; both 
 
 cular notice of the following hieroglyphics. On which are in the plate of Egyptian pillars. A 
 
 one a man offers to the Deity, in each hand a man ftanding before four monkies, which are on 
 
 vafe like a chocolate dilh, having on each arm two floors, as I think two on each floor. Three 
 
 fomething refcmbling a folded napkin. In aeo- trees on a pedeftal. It is to be obferved that the 
 
 ther, one feems to offer himfelf to two Deities, heads, hands and legs of many of the figures are 
 
 which by fome emblems, I conjectured to be the defaced ; but thofe cut on granite remain intire, 
 
 fun and moon. A man offers fomething like apples as they could not be fo eafily disfigured, by rea- 
 
 to one on a throne ; four Deities being on thrones fon of the hardnefs of the Hone. 
 
 above, as on another floor. A bird like a hawk, on 
 
 patriarch's 
 
ON EGYPT. 97 
 
 patriarch's map has Maximianopolis, a bilhop's fee, in this fituation, call'd 
 in Arabic, Medmut, which may be one of the villages of old Thebes, men- 
 tion'd by Strabo, that might after increafe to a fmall town. 
 
 Returning I view'd the ruins of what I fuppofed to be a round temple, 
 and appear'd to have been a hundred and feventy-five feet diameter. I 
 faw alfo fome remains of a grand gate to the weft of it. Having view'd 
 thefe things, we return'd, and I entertain'd my conductors with coffee at 
 the boat, and made the Sheik's fon a prefent that I thought would be agree- 
 able to him. This young man had fhewn me great civility, imagining that 
 I might be a phyfician, and defired my advice in a certain cafe. The next 
 day I fpent in reviewing the great temple of Carnack, and taking feveral 
 heights. I had thoughts of going to Luxerein, and fo coming from that 
 place to take leave of the great man ; but his Caia, who came to me 
 very kindly, told me it was beft to take leave of the Sheik before I depart- 
 ed, fo I waited on him. He was very civil, and told me I might fee Luxerein 
 without any trouble; and when 1 was return'd, the fecretary fent me provi- 
 fions from the Sheik's kitchen. Part of Thebes, which was weft of the ri- 
 ver, is now call'd Gournou ; but the Memnonium, which was the moft 
 weftern part, I take to be now call'd Medinet Haboti. When I went on 
 that fide, 1 fent to the Sheik, to whom I had a letter from the great Sheik 
 of Furfhout; he came to the boat, and conducted me to his houfe at the 
 village of Gournou, mark'd A. in the view I have given of this fide in 
 the twenty-ninth plate. The Sheik furnifh'd me with horfes, and we fet 
 out to go to Biban-el-Meluke, and went about a mile to the north, in a 
 fort of a ftreet, on each fide of which the rocky ground about ten feet 
 high has rooms cut into it, fome of them being fupported with pillars ; 
 and, as there is not the leaft fign in the plain of private buildings, I thought 
 that thefe in the very earlieft times might ferve as houfes, and be the firft 
 invention after tents, and contrived as a better fhelter from wind, and the 
 cold of the nights. It is a fort of gravelly ftone, and the doors are cut 
 regularly to the ftreet. We then turn'd to the north weft, enter'd in be- 
 tween the high rocky hills, and went in a very narrow valley. We after 
 turn'd towards the fouth, and then to the north weft, going in all between 
 the mountains about a mile or a mile and a half, as reprefented in the plan 
 mark'd N. in the thirty-firft plate. We came to a part that is wider, being 
 a round opening, like an amphitheatre, and afcended by a narrow fteep 
 paflage about ten feet high, which feems to have been broke down thro' 
 the rock, the antient paflage being probably from the Memnonium under Sepulchres 
 the hills, and it may be from the grottos 1 enter'd on the other fide. By ° { f 
 this paflage we came to Biban-el-Meluke, or Bab-il-Meluke, that is, The 
 gate or court of the Kings, being the fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes. 
 Diodorus Siculus * makes mention of them as the very wonderful fepulchres 
 
 KUp^Trhtaiti $iAt7it+«f«N!K uVe^CoAtiu a* «7roAciVov7otf. u.t.u, Sicts ix^icct. Strabo xvii. p. 816. 
 'Oi fih av iE^«f f K twv avayeytpw itpzeav sufyVxeiv It is very probable that what Strabo calls t« 
 
 iitia. srjsj tcI* tet7«^'kov7« T«if«? ,3«o-jA(jts'f - h'c S\ eT&Ma, are the fame as Paufanias calls cd cv&y- 
 
 nToAt^ov tcv Aa'ys A«ite7v«*, <p«ff)i;, stt7 axcu&xu j-tr, which fignifies not only pipes or tubes, but 
 
 po'vo*, m t« uaKha K.ce,7iQ$xglo x»3-' xV oi «r zff«££- any pafiages or grottos under ground ; and near 
 
 Gas'Ao^jv ifw8 «'f iwvvt Tbs toVw. Diodorus 1. i. thele, our author fays, the famous colofial ftauie 
 
 p. 43- ftood. 
 
 Vol. I. C c of 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of the Kings of Thebes, fuch as never could be exceeded by any thing 
 that was afterwards executed in this kind. He fays forty-feven of them 
 were mention'd in their hiftories, that feventeen only remain'd to the time 
 of Ptolemy the fon of Lagus, as the hiftorians of that time, and particu- 
 larly Hecatsus relates ; and adds that moll of them were deftroy'd in his 
 time ; tho' probably many of the forty-feven he mentions were built, and 
 not cut into the hills like thefe that remain, as it is not eafy to deftroy 
 fuch fort of monuments. Strabo fays that above the Memnonium were the 
 fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes, in grottos cut out of the rock, being 
 about forty in number, wonderfully executed, and worthy to be feen. In 
 them he fays were obelifks with infcriptions on them, fetting forth the 
 riches, power and empire of thofe Kings, as far as Scythia, Baflria, India, 
 and Jonia, their great revenues and their armies, confifting of a million 
 of men. The infcriptions on thefe obelisks were probably hieroglyphical; 
 and they muft have been final], it may be of the fize of the obelisk men- 
 tion'd in a window in the caftle of Cairo. The vale where thefe grottos 
 are, may be about one hundred yards wide, as reprefented in the thirtieth 
 plate. There are figns of about eighteen of them, as mark'd in the view in 
 this plate ; D E F I. and O. are flopped up : To the reft, if I made no miftake, 
 the plans correfpond in the thirty-firft and thirty- fecond plates. How- 
 ever, it is to be remark'd that Diodorus fays feventeen of them only re- 
 main'd till the time of the Ptolemies; and I found the entrances to about 
 that number, moft of which he fays were deftroy'd in his time, and now 
 there are only nine that can be enter'd into. The hills on each fide are 
 high fteep rocks, and the whole place is cover'd with rough ftones that 
 feem to have rolled from them ; the grottos are cut into the rock in a moft 
 beautiful manner in long rooms or galleries under the mountains, which 
 are of a clofe white freeftone that cuts like chalk, and is as fmooth as the 
 fined ftucco work. The galleries arc moftly about ten feet wide and high ; 
 four or five of thefe galleries, one within another, from thirty to fifty feet 
 long, and from ten to fifteen feet high, generally lead to a fpacious room, 
 in which is feen the tomb of the King, with his figure cut in relief on the 
 lid, as I faw it on one In the furthermoft room of another, the picture 
 of the King is painted on the ftone at full length ; both the fides and ceil- 
 ings of the rooms are cut with hieroglyphics of birds and beafts, and 
 fome of them painted, being as frefh as if they were but juft finifh'd, tho' 
 they muft be above two thoufand years old. The fepulchre A. particu- 
 larly is moft beautifully adorn'd with hieroglyphics cut into the ftone and 
 painted. The entrance, which is adefcent, is cut thro' the rock, being open 
 at top for thirteen feet; then for eight feet more to the door, the ceiling 
 is an inclined plain, as the defcent under it ; over the door the beetle is 
 cut in a circle, and a man fitting on each fide; the galleries within have 
 hieroglyphics cut on each fide; firft in a fort of a compartment next to 
 the ceiling in manner of a frieze ; lower, figures are cut out reprefent- 
 ing mummies ; below thefe, for feven feet from the ground, are hierogly- 
 phics all down the fides, divided by lines into different columns; in the 
 middle of the ceiling there are figures of men for about three feet in 
 breadth, with ftars on each fide. Among the hieroglyphics, I obferved 
 many goats heads. The tomb of the King, (the plan of which may be 
 feen in the thirty-firft plate A.) is of one Hone ot red granite, feven 
 
 feet 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 feet nine inches high, eleven feet eight inches long, and above fix feet 
 broad, the cover being made as reprefented to fhut into it: On it is cut 
 the figure of the King in mezzo-relievo, and a hieroglyphical infcription, 
 as may be feen in the plate over the tomb, which probably is fome ac- 
 count of the Monarch. This room is adorn'd with hieroglyphics in dif- 
 ferent columns, with figures of men, hawks and bulls. In the laft room 
 are two infcriptions, made probably by fome perfons who came to fee the 
 place * ; one of them is in the thirty-firft plate. In the feveral fepulchres, 
 the parts that are fhaded are niches, commonly about four feet above the 
 ground ; the large ones might be to depolite bodies in, and the final- 
 ler for little ftatues. The grotto C. towards the middle part, is a de- 
 fcent, and the feveral ftories of hieroglyphics are cut parallel with the 
 ground ; the ceiling of the room where the tomb was is cut arch wife; 
 round the pedeftal of the tomb which feems to have been there, the room 
 is cut down three feet fix inches lower than in the other parts, in a rough 
 manner ; the tomb is taken away, but the red granite top remains eleven 
 feet long, and fix feet and a half broad. In the furthermoft room is a 
 figure, I think in relief, with the arms acrofs on the breaft; over it is a 
 globe, and a man kneels on each fide of the apartment H. In the great 
 room there is a ftatue of a man with a fceptre in his hand, and on the ceiling 
 is a large figure of a man painted at top, with a particular fort of fcep- 
 tre alfo in his hand, and wings hanging down lower than the feet, and 
 covering the whole body, being a very extraordinary figure, and the paint- 
 ing exceeding frefh. At the entrance on each fide are four men cut into 
 the ftone above the natural fize, having heads of hawks and other ani- 
 mals; on the infide a tortoife, and a man with a goat's head are cut 
 within a circle on each of the pilafters. At the entrance of K. a large 
 bull's head is cut in relief, and by a hole mark'd k. at the further end of 
 it, there is a communication with L. The grotto B. is cut with a de- 
 fcent all the way from the entrance. Some of them, particularly that 
 mark'd M. feem never to have been finifh'd ; and two or three have fo 
 much rough ftone in them, like the chipping of the rock, that thofe who 
 enter, cannot walk upright in them. Having view'd thefe extraordi- 
 nary fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes with the utmoft pleafure, by the 
 help of the wax-lights we brought, and being much fatigued, we thought 
 to fit down and take fome refrefhments we had brought, in this retired 
 place; but unfortunately we had forgot to bring water: The Sheik alfo 
 was in hafte to go, being afraid, as I imagined, left the people fhould 
 have opportunity to gather together if we ftaid out long. From Gournou 
 to this place there is a very difficult foot way over the mountains, by 
 which the people might have paid us an unwelcome vifit, tho' we were 
 under the protection of the Sheik, who might likewife be well pleafed to 
 protract the time, that he might prolong our flay, in order to have more 
 of our money for his horfes and people, and alfo in expectation of a 
 greater prefent. Returning from this place, I obferved in the plain to the 
 north, many entrances into the rocks, which probably were of the nature 
 of the grottos I obferved on each fide of the way as I came. 
 
 3 This is the other infcription Januarius pp VI. D I E I miravi locum filium Eliani Varina valetc 
 
 omnes. ^ 
 
 The 
 
OBSERV ATI ONS 
 
 The Sheik was fo civil and humane as to ftay and eat with me, which 
 is what they rarely do. The next day I went into two very extenfive 
 apartments cut in the rock, on the fouth fide of thofe hills we went to 
 the day before, being in between the foot of the hills, at the place mark'd 
 G. in the twenty-ninth plate. To one of them A. in the thirty-fourth 
 plate, is a defcent of ten fteps to an area cut in the rock, which leads to 
 a room in which are fquare pillars cut out of the rock : Beyond that there 
 is a long room with pillars on each fide in like manner; all the apartments 
 are adorn'd with hieroglyphics ; but the ftone is fcaled in fuch a manner, 
 and is fo black in fome of the firft apartments, that there is great reafon 
 to think the place has been damaged by fire. Beyond thefe rooms, the apart- 
 ments extend to the right, there being feveral fteps down ; one part leads 
 to a gallery cut round the rock, which has fome apartments on one fide ; 
 and in this, as well -a* in the apartments of the other grotto mark'd B. 
 are holes cut perpendicularly down to other apartments below, where I 
 few doors and openings, and where probably there are as many apart- 
 ments as above. One would almoft imagine that thefe places were habi- 
 tations for the living, and poflibly might be cut under the palaces of the 
 Kings of Thebes, if they were not the very palaces themfelves, to retire 
 to when they pleafed, from their tents or other places more expofed to the 
 wind or heat. The other grotto B. is cut under a fmall hill, which is 
 between E. and C. near the appearance of a grand entrance in under the 
 mountains. The way to that entrance is by a valley, which feems to have 
 been divided into four parts by walls or mounds, of which there are ftill 
 remains : That which is molt to the eaft is deep, and looks like a quarry 
 of black flint ftone, being much deeper than the others. I thought it might 
 have been a relervoir ot the Nile water, and for that reafon formerly 
 paved with ftones, in order to make it hold the water. The other three 
 parts go towards fome remains of buildings, as reprefented in the thirty- 
 fifth plate; the granite door A. leads to the building B. which is all ruin'd, 
 except a ftnall part of the front. To the weft is a room C. over which 
 there is a well-turn'd arch, with a half round at the fpring of it ; the door 
 at the north end has likewife a half round on each fide of it, and is 
 of granite. It appears to have been uled as a Chriflian church, and the 
 hieroglyphics have been cover'd over with plaifter, which are in fmall co- 
 lumns, exquifitely well cut ; Chrift with a glory is painted on the plaifter. 
 As this was a church, it is probable the arch over this building is a Chri- 
 flian work. In the fmall room D. to the fouth are many bones, which 
 feem'd to have been burnt ; and if there had not been linen with them, 
 1 lhould not have thought they had been embalm'd, but burnt by acci- 
 dent. The rock at the mountain has been made perpendicular by art; the 
 people faid there was an entrance there under the hill, and 'tis probable 
 it was a paffage to which there was a defcent, and that all has been fill'd 
 up. I took a particular view of the large temple, a little way to the 
 fouth eaft, for fuch it feems to have been ; a plan of it is in the fame 
 plate. At all the fquare pillars E. are ftatues, as reprefented at K. with 
 the heads broke off, which feem to have had on them the long cap, that is 
 often feen in the hieroglyphics; for there is enough remains of thofe caps on 
 the pillars to fhew what they were. Thefe ftatues have the lituus in one 
 hand, and the flagellum or whip in the other, as commonly feen with the 
 
 ftatue 
 
 3 
 
miv. f>.M0. 
 
 Plans of two Subterraneous Grottos at Thebes. 
 
SSST-LJ-JOI 
 
 _ J>_ZJJTS ^ti^Tevrplesari,/ y^/wr Suias <itThA es.my 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 IOI 
 
 ftatue cf Ofiris. There are ruins of a pyramidal gate at G. to the fouth 
 of this building, and of a very large colofial ftatue; it is broke off about the 
 middle of the trunk, the head is fix feet broad ; from the tot) of the head 
 to the bottom of the neck, it meafures eleven feet, and fo it does from 
 the bottom cf the neck to the navel; it is twenty-one feet broad at the 
 fhouldcrs ; the ear is three feet long, and one foot four inches broad ; and the 
 foot is four feet eight inches broad. In the fecond court, at H H, are 
 remains of two ftatues of black granite; that to the weft, which is fit- 
 ting, meafured from the hand to the elbow five feet, thence to the fhoul- 
 der four feet; the head is three feet and a half long, and the ear is one 
 foot in length. The ftatue to the eaft is three feet five inches long 
 in the foot ; at a diftance from it is the head with the cap ; it is three feet 
 fix inches long, and behind it is the ornament of the dome leaf. Some 
 perfons have thought that one of thefe is the ftatue of Memnon. Many 
 other pillars of this building are deftroy'd, as reprefented in the plan; but 
 from the ruins it appears to have been a very magnificent building in this 
 way. From the temple I went to the ftatues which I fhall call the coloffal 
 ftatues of Memnon; they are towards Medinet-Habou. The Sheik hur- Statues ot 
 ried me from this place, faying he was near his enemy ; lb I fet out early Memo ° n ' 
 the next morning, and fpent above half a day at thefe ftatues : They are 
 of a very particular fort of porous hard granite, fuch as I never faw be- 
 fore; it moft refembles the eagle ftone. The fl-aiuc is icpiefenred in the 
 thirty-fixtli and thirty-fcvcnch plates ; they look to the fouth fouth eaft, 
 and are on a pedeftal or plinth entirely plain. That to the north is thirty 
 feet long, and feventeen broad, the pedeftal of the other is thirty-three 
 feet long, and nineteen feet wide, and they are about thirty feet apart : 
 That to the fouth is of one ftone. The ftatue to the north has been broken 
 off at the middle, above the arms, that lie on the hams; and it has been 
 built up with five tier of ftones,- one to the top of the clinch of the el- 
 bow, another almoft half way up the arm, one to the armpits, the fourth 
 to the neck, and the fifth the head and neck, of one ftone. The other 
 tiers have two ftones in front, except that the middle tier has three, and 
 there are two ftones in the thicknefs of the ftatue : The feet are broken 
 a quarter off from the toes; but as I did not take a particular draught of 
 the parts of the ftatue that are maim'd, I thought it better to give it en- 
 tire from the drawing and obfervations I did make. I found the height 
 from the bottom of the foot to the top of the knee, to be about nineteen 
 feet ,• from the bottom of the foot to the ankle, two feet fix inches ; to 
 the top of the inftep, four feet; the foot is five feet broad, and the leg is 
 four feet deep ; the ornament behind the head feem'd to be the dome leaf, 
 as I have it on a ftatue of Harpocrates. At the fide of the legs, as repre- 
 fented, are two reliefs, and one between the legs, of the natural height, 
 but much defaced : Between the former and the great ftatue, are hierogly- 
 phics. The pedeflal of the imperfect ftatue is crac'k'd acrofs, at the di- 
 ftance of about ten feet from the back part ; there are alfo fome flaws and 
 cracks in the other ftatue, but it is of one ftone, which I dare politively 
 affirm, and in which I could not be miftaken, having been twice at 
 | the ftatues. 1 fpent half a day there, and took down in my notes an ac- 
 count of every ftone, of which the upper part of the other is built. On the 
 Vol. I. D d pedeftal 
 
O B S E R V A T IONS 
 
 pedeftal of the imperfect ftatue is a Greek epigram, which may be feen 
 in the fifty-fifth plate ; and on the infteps and legs, for about eight feet 
 high, are feveral infcriptions in Greek and Latin, fome being epigrams in 
 honour of Memnon, others, the greater part, teftimonies of thofe who 
 heard his found, and fome alfo in unknown characters; all the infcriptions 
 are ill cut, and in bad language, both on account of the hardnefs of the 
 ftone and the ignorance of the people, who probably made money by 
 cutting thefe infcriptions for thofe that came to hear the found. I copied 
 them with all the exaftnefs I poffibly could, tho' many of them were very 
 difficult to be underftood, and they are engraved in the thirty-eighth and 
 thirty-ninth plates ; for I was not entirely undifturbed whilft I was doing 
 it ; but after I had been at this work fome time, the Arabs came about me, 
 and faid, they would not permit me to copy every thing in that manner, 
 and fome of them attempted to pull me away ; but I continued on copying 
 them out, till I had finifhed them all. The common people have the weak- 
 nefs to imagine that infcriptions difcover treafures. 
 
 Going on from thefe to the north north weft, at a hundred paces diftance 
 in a line from the broken ftatue, are the very imperfect ruins of another 
 ftatue lying on the ground, and one hundred paces farther, fuch another, 
 two hundred paces from that, is another ftatue, of which there are greater 
 remains, being broken and fallen down, the back part with hieroglyphics 
 on it lies uppermoft, and is thirty feet fix inches long; it is of a mixture 
 of white and brown marble. Further on a litdc to the right, among the 
 trees, is a ftatue almoft intire, being a yellow granite, in very fmall 
 grains, with fome little flints in it; the ftatue is twelve feet long, from 
 the head to the fork, and the fhoulders were four feet broad above the 
 ground, a fmall part being funk into the earth. Going on to the hills, I 
 obferved an area cut out of the rock, and many ftones lying about it, with 
 hieroglyphics on them ; this feems to have been a part of the grand tem- 
 ple to which thefe ftatues lead, as a fort of avenue; and I fuppofe there 
 were other ftatues, in a line from the great ones. About half a mile 
 from this area, are the remains of Medinet-Habou, to which probably the 
 buildings of this temple extended; and all this together, I take to be the 
 Memnoni- antient Memnonium ; the ruins of the other temple on this fide, being a 
 mile to the eaft, and feem to have no relation to thefe : The name alfo 
 of Medinet-Habou is a confirmation that this was the Memnonium, for 
 in the itinerary it is called Papa, a word almoft univerfally ufed for fa- 
 ther, fo that Medinet-Habou feems to fignify the City of the Father, and, 
 as I obferved elfewhere, Abydus may have the fame derivation, where 
 there was a famous temple or palace of Memnon. 
 
 I have already remarked, that in the temple to the eaft there are re- 
 mains of two ftatues of black granite, one has been thought, by fome, 
 to be the famous ftatue of Memnon, which at the firft or fecond hour, 
 they pretend, uttered a found, occafioned, as fome would have it, by 
 the rays of the lun ftriking on it ; others are of opinion, that it was the 
 ftatue I have already defcribed, with the infcriptions on it; in order to 
 judge of which, it may be proper to confider what the antient authors 
 fay on this fubjed, and the arguments on each fide. 
 
 Strabo 
 
 I02 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Strabo b fpeaking of Thebes, fays, that there were in his time feveral 
 villages on the rite of it, part of them on that fide which was in Arabia, 
 where the city then was, part on the other fide, where the Memnonium 
 was. Here were two coloflal ftatues of one ftone, near one another, one 
 being entire ; the upper part of the other was fallen down, from the feat, 
 as it was faid, occafioned by an earthquake. It was thought, that 
 once a day a found was heard, as of a great blow, from that part which 
 remained on the feat and bafe. When he was there, with JElius Gallus 
 and others, he heard the found; and whether it came from the bafe, or 
 the ftatue, or the people about it, he could not fay • the caufe not ap- 
 pearing, he would rather believe any thing, than that a found fhould be 
 occafioned by any particular manner in which the ftone is compofed. 
 
 Paufanias c fays, that Cambyfes broke it, and that then the upper part, 
 from the middle, was feen lying negleded on the ground ; the other part, 
 every day at fun rifing, uttered a found like the breaking of a firing of 
 a harp when it was wound up d . Philoftratus gives this account: He fays, 
 the place where the temple was built, was much like an antient forum, 
 of which fort of forum there are remains in the moft antient cities, with 
 fragments of their columns, and the foundations of their walls: More- 
 over, they fay, that ftatues of Mercury are feen there, partly deftroyed by 
 time, and partly by force. But the ftatue of Memnon, reprefenting a 
 youth, is turned towards the fun ; it is of black ftone, both the feet of 
 it are fet even together, according to the manner of making ftatues * to 
 the time of Dsedalus ,* the hands reft on the thighs, as if in a pofture to 
 get up ; the manner and look of the eyes and mouth appear like a perfon 
 ipeaking; but this they lefs wondered at, as they were not yet acquainted 
 with the virtue of this ftatue. But when the rays of the fun came on the 
 ftatue, which was about fun rifing, they related what was very wonderful, 
 they fay the ftatue fpoke as foon as ever the rays of the fun came to 
 its mouth. And Pliny, fpeaking of Bafaltes, (which, he fays, was of the 
 colour and hardnefs of iron) reckons among ftatues of this ftone, that 
 which was thought to be the ftatue of Memnon at Thebes, in the temple 
 of Serapis, which, they fay, made a noife every day about fun rifing, when 
 the rays of the fun came on it e . Tzetzes calls it the column that uttered 
 
 T«v3-« St Svow xoAoiro-wv qvIuv ^covo Ai'9-wv otAAijAflii srAij- 
 elciVy a $j rw^slflw, iS J' STtgs id oLvu id Iwid t 5 
 
 c? on ajr«| x«(T ipifpv sWrp, 4 ,0 '$© J ' wf «v Txhv,yri<; 
 6v fityocMf, SttliAeiTou ~xm. iS fttvovlgy hi ia 
 
 t;j garret [ftgiSi Aid 10 eccfsjAou I s euilaty itdv 
 
 ftaAAov Wi^'/J\ou. srjr£v«u, ij is cv. iuv A/Gam vice itloiy~ 
 
 ptvm ostnre^nrEdS-oi t yx ov - Strabo xviii. p. 816. 
 
 cvoy,et^nciv 01 aroAAo'i 6 K«/*j3uV<ff JjIxoyEj ^ vvv 
 
 07toscv on xf(T}aA?K If jUSiro'j stasia, v t v aVcf p*J/»tvoi', to jj 
 Aoiffov xotliyldi ie >£, dvd isdsm yy-tgyv dvi<^ail{§r r'Ai's 
 /3o«, Kf t fyov fAuMsot eindeei ik xiSet^f >; Avg^f 
 
 f cty&fKi ^of-Jf. Paufanias i. c. 42. 
 
 d To 3 x°>£' ov ? ISfuldw, Qa.e\ ft)Ju wgOQ-tar/Avcu 
 dya°£> ct^aiec^ oToli tav dyogwv bv nroh«ri srojs ow.rfitt- 
 
 k, Saitouf jij (pAi«j. Efjuwv T6 dyobh.y,dloi rd $j \sm 
 p£«f<£v Ae$9o^CT«, id jj lotij ^fo'vi*' is jj ctyot,h^» te- 
 T§«(p9#i argo; ax7iV«, p.{jiru yevetdintov' At'9» q' etvcti 
 /»sAsev© J . 5vf*^tQttKiv«i 3 tw srs'de w'^wepw t dyah- 
 
 fJLCtWJTMXV T S7rJ AoClSctKil, Kj TOtf X"€^ S « 
 
 o'^0 t &#xov" x«6^o9-«j ya^ su t» virotvka- 
 
 t&Otl. 10 -J %VfA# T«T0, «, T T 0(f>S#A|UWV DflUU, !^ OZOSH, 
 
 iS slpoiltQr dq <pdty%x[A,ivx wJistri" x, t $p aAAov ^§0- 
 vov ?t7o» $av{*d<rau <px<riV visas y% ht%y& Ipeuvt&af 
 argoe-|3aA8V))( 3 -n otyothfACC t? ajtlTngy-, t«7J j y/y- 
 uscS-aii iia£* y'Ai'a IxraAotf, jwi} xaiacj/^v id Savpct,' 
 $My%a<&ott «jj<j ^ fij^aXf^/** ^ axfru©' iAflao-iff «^7aJ 
 
 ett) fo'jua. Philoftratus De vita Apollonii Tyanei, 
 t vi. c. 3. 
 
 * So tfl-ihere feems to mean, and, not as fome 
 have interpreted it, after the time of Dsedahis, 
 who may be prefumed to have brought in the 
 manner of fetting one foot before another in fta- 
 tuary. 
 
 c Invenit eadem iEgyptus in Ethiopia, quern 
 vocant bafaltem, ferrei colons atque duriti^ 
 
 Non abfimilis illi narratur in Thebis delubro 
 Serapis, ut putant, Memnonis ftatua dicatus; 
 quern quotidiano folis ortu contactum radiis cre- 
 pare dicunt. Plin, Nat. Hift. I. xxiv. c. 7. 
 
 i 
 
Ill'' 
 
 104 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 a found when it was day, and fays it was of a mixed red or fpotted Rone. 
 For fome account of the hiftory of Memnon, and of the arguments that 
 are ufed on both fides, in relation to this ftatue, fee below f . We went 
 
 in 
 
 f Memnon was, by the account of all authors, 
 the fori of Tithonus and Aurora, which is men- 
 tion'd in the eighteenth infeription on the right 
 leg of the ftatue of Memnon, as may be feen in the 
 thirty-fixth plate, in thefe words, Tldis 'Has ti >^ 
 T«Sw'voio. Tithonus was fon of Laomedon King of 
 Troy, and brother of Priamus ; fo that he was pro- 
 bably born about the year two thoufand fix hundred 
 and eighty of the world. As he went into Afia, 
 towards the eaft, and carried his arms as far as 
 Ethiopia, this, according to Diodorus, gave rife 
 to the fable of his marriage with Aurora, and 
 that he had Memnon by her ; and it is probable 
 he might really marry fome eaftern princefs, %y 
 whom he might have Memnon born, when he 
 was in Ethiopia. Antient authors indeed differ 
 about the place of Memnon's birth ; Paufanias 
 fays that he did not come from Ethiopia, but 
 from Sufa in Perfia. Suidas relates that he com- 
 manded the Ethiopians, but was born near Sufa, 
 on the river Choafpes ; and yet Paufanias fays 
 that the Thebans pretended he was an Egyptian ; 
 but that others affirmed he was born in Ethiopia, 
 and extended his conquefts as far as Sufa. Where - 
 ever he was born, he was certainly at Sufa •, and 
 Dionyfius in his Periegefis, calls it the City of 
 Memncn (Ms/»vovHov«fu ;) but it is moft probable 
 that he was born in Ethiopia, becaufe Philoftra- 
 tus fpeaks of him, as having a black complexion ; 
 and Virgil has theexprcflion of " nigri Memnonis 
 *' arma." Philoftratus fays that he reigned in Ethi- 
 opia for five generations ; but how many years that 
 was, may be difficult to determine. It is proba- 
 ble likewife, that he reign'd in Egypt, as fuch 
 great honours were paid to him, parricularly at 
 Thebes ; and his palace is mentioned at Abydus. 
 He went to the fiege of Troy, to afiift Priamus, 
 his uncle, where he was kill'd by Achilles, as 
 mentioned by fevcral authors, and is confirmed 
 by thefe words of the epigram, cut on the bafe 
 of the ftatue of Memnon ; though it may be 
 difficult to make out the entire fenfe of them, as 
 it may be feen in the thirty-fifth plate: 
 
 Which words muff refer to his being killed by 
 Achilles, and plainly fhew the falfhood of what 
 is affirmed by an author quoted by Philoftratus, 
 that Memnon was not at Troy, but reigned in 
 Ethiopia. And yet Philoftratus in another place 
 mentions, that he was killed in the Trojan war by 
 Achilles. DicTys Cretenfis fays, that Himera, 
 the fiftcr of Memnon, carried his afties to his 
 country Palhochen, in Phoenicia. Simonides, 
 quoted by Strabo, affirms, that he was buried a- 
 bout Paltus in Syria, on the river Bada, Pal t us 
 being between Tripoli and Laodicea. Jofephus 
 likewife fpeaks of the monument of Mem- 
 non, at the lake Cendovia, near the river Be- 
 lusj and it is certain, that the river Belus does 
 rife out of a fmall lake: Poffibly, the remains 
 of Memnon might be brought fomewhere to 
 thefe parts-, and as to the different places that are 
 mentioned, that might be occafioned by hono- 
 rary monuments erected to him. 
 
 Some are of opinion that this is not the ftatue 
 of Memnon ; but that it was a fmall ftatue in 
 the temple, a mile to the north, and look on it 
 as a proof that that ftatue is of black marble ; 
 that it is in a building they think anfwers to the 
 account of Philoftratus ; that this temple was like 
 the antient forum, and they fuppofe the ftatues 
 mentioned in it, to be the Mercurial ftatues 
 he fpeaks of ; that they would have a greater re- 
 fpect for the ftatue of Memnon, than to cut in- 
 fcriptions on it; and moreover, that Juvenal in 
 his time mentions it as a ftatue, half of which 
 was broke off, and that it is not probable that 
 it fhould have been built up after his time ; and 
 that the teftimony of Tzetzes, not a very an- 
 tient writer, is of no great weight, who fays it is 
 of a mixed red colour ; and it weakens his authori- 
 ty, as he calls it a pillar, inftead of a ftatue. 
 
 Thofe who are of opinion that the ftatue 
 with the inferiptions on it, and an epigram in the 
 front of the pedeftal, was the ftatue of Memnon, 
 fay, that they cannot be inform'd of any ftatue 
 of Bafaltes in this place, as Pliny affirms it to 
 be, who was often mifinform'd as to the facls he 
 relates ; that the outfide of thefe ftatues is blackifh, 
 as may be feen by pieces that have been brought 
 away -, that where it is broke, it is of a fpotted 
 mixed red colour, as Tzetzes mentions, which 
 may reconcile the different accounts of authors, 
 fome mentioning it as a black marble ftatue, and 
 one of a red ftone -, that the temple where the 
 others ftood, feems to have been covered, being 
 divided into feveral apartments, and probably 
 this very part was covered, there being a row of 
 pillars behind thefe ftatues, and the fquare pil- 
 lars have been reprefenred in a drawing, as co- 
 vered ; fo that thefe two ftatues feem to have 
 been under cover ; that though the walls do not 
 remain on each fide, yet probably there were 
 walls, as the building is divided into different a- 
 partments, fo that if the ftatue ftood towards the 
 entrance of the temple, it faced to the fouth, and 
 not to the rifmg fun ; that the other great ftatues 
 ftand facing to the fouth fouth eaft, as was found 
 by a compafs ; that if the two great cobftal fta- 
 tues made a part of the avenue to the temple, 
 and were within the diftrict of it ; they think that 
 it may account for its being faid that they were 
 in the temple, as ibme very antient temples con- 
 filled only of an open enclofure, thefe ftatues 
 feeming to anfwer the (phinxes mentioned by 
 Strabo, in the dromos of the temple; all thefe 
 parts being called (ii ie^d*) the temple, as may be 
 feen in Strabo's Defcription of the Egyptian tem- 
 ples. They add, moreover, that the temple 
 thefe ftatues belongM to, might be built like the 
 antient forum, and that there is no determinate 
 figure or circumftance mentioned in the forum, 
 to prove that this temple was in that form ; all 
 that is mentioned of them is, that there were 
 feen fragments of pillars, and fome traces of the 
 walls of them. As to the Mercurial ftatues that 
 were in the temple, if we fuppofe that they were 
 the ftatues of Mercury, it is obferved that it is 
 not well known what the emblems of the ftatues 
 
 of 
 
MEMNOBTS CUVS DEXTEHm 
 
 _mvur.p.io4 
 
 IriT LX( 
 
 il)V HADRIAN I 
 
 ISPftAEFXE 
 |r MEMJVONEM 
 I M APT MORA I'S 
 
 IsuLANA UE 
 
 ibm african/ „,_,, 
 Idfebr.hor.aTs 
 
 If/VO //MPPoMfTMNf AUG 
 YMIAMTEKTIO VZNISSEM 
 
 li'RAEFAEfl 
 UfOfT 
 
 W£NjVA 
 l/AN/CIVSlFVOIVFRL/i- | 
 
 pcTTic\K.Avbi mp 
 
 ANNO VII |MP(ME£4R)S 
 N ERVA ETMMM AUG 
 'iVIBIVS MAXIMW/HEF 
 AVO/T*1EMNONEM 
 l+ORA || 5 SECV NDA 
 
 < mT MPR/US 
 ■JEROlti RlXXN BIKVIOC 
 ffO/UT 
 
 CM A ENIVS HAN loaMS 
 
 VWM»|W AVBIV/ Mf mMOV£.y A/VTESEttlHUK/t*1 
 ■XlHNNICIIII „ TITIANO TOiEOBEAl o/e 
 
 *HOM rZIMAVBIDEM DIEI 
 
 K.eA£icT?A thtoc cnsaa e/ ttaphn 
 
 MEMNONDCOYXOTTIOC AKoYceT/lf 
 e\ KONeiTTAPAYTHl ATOjn x oj >l AT^H 
 (1PHN e&upoc RA|TTP£icKY/VWC«/V 
 
 \i e « s .,/ \ fTTirMOYCov4e\e'^e90errATo 
 icexti A.eATTtfe i c PA rr a ism ion 
 
 M6CAC4/ACTWCAC«MepAC4-V0 
 
 HKoycfe-v eAe^^Tov eEoyrosHteH 
 
 \L5. AAP/4 /VOYKA^CAPOC TOYKIPIoYtTTuicv \c 
 
 FEUXAUGCLItiEATvS 
 PROCURATOR C5/ACOS 
 ttORAPS/MA SENilS 
 MEM NO SUM 
 AODIVIT 
 
 C &PO/V0C VCOVATH 
 efTAPXCC7r£-(Ptt~ 
 
 Aerewivoc cr 
 
 K0YA;"n 
 
 StcoKOPOC To 
 
 CAP/fniAoc~r 
 
 C 6- 1 TOY M6MiV0A<4 
 PIANO 
 
 /VOTKAfSA-PE'/AtlTrA 
 
 HR0YS4 3 Ml 
 e/vlNHTStfjVlHNIJTNICX 
 /<AI AIA\<7YAAE"A < P<^ M 
 
 Liuyii/sc/uvf nvs 
 U. /i CO,Xoyy5sX« F/vfC\ 
 
 AMOIVI M£l*l*C/V£MXU-- " 
 
 M/iv/cuRviTce A V A0RF-. 
 KAP.WI.S - hor 1/ <*/vowi XX V 
 
 vc x 
 
 SEXLIUHNSPVDEHS 
 XI «; A-/VVA-RI AS A^/VO /)£ 
 OpU.lT/ A (V) CAe-S4R/54UC(yST/ 
 CF R M A/V/CI /If 01 /VlEMA/OA/fM 
 
 ^ MUSJsfS 
 J VPVS PR 
 
XXAlA.p.ioj: 
 
 ^lEMFOKIS CBTS ALTEETM 
 
 (OYAIAC BAAXIAXttC 
 
 crr£HK,oyce ioyaieojivos 
 OC6BASTOZ AAPIA/V02. ,„„_, 
 
 lAAP/A'VoA4eCI4cJ^T0/VnApU)ACIAIHMr/ , /A'AVCAl 
 
 If/wI^OTTeAAaJAAoy/tOICUIAlWPOt/TTHOIC VIAACAXYCWEAA ttc«ycct ? ia 
 
 ;xAMBo\oTYiTeWTo/HMe«eMA/aj*rrAiv«AVAw wis JUiUTr/? ™'™mic 
 
 PRAPPAEGAVWOAUANAlCj 
 UIWVS MAPT/AS 
 ,SEROTaV>0||l ETUAROCS 
 
 HORAl) I ES ANTE Pft IAAaJ 
 M VLP/V4- PftjAMAA/VS 
 
 PftA £FA£G 
 VI KALAAA RTM5 DIX 
 fftON COS /T£RUM HOP.A 
 D/£) SECVNDA XVoAL 
 
 10JC 
 
 WlofA'XMNlortfllX CYTYX 
 > j,.. M<PlwrulCAACO£(tl 
 
 WEMiyoWI/SVAT/i' CANOA.. 
 AUDIT ET DON AT CA R . . . -;- 
 
 - ; CORDADEIS/j 
 
 OAYTCWOW/PfJ - WrffToMAiONIH 
 KO/MA-OCA APPWoc . . A I CA A /CrOCA POMYTOC 
 usu-Honamnq. .... AWAA -ptoV//OYOIO 
 r P07rrrATACA(iA /» tato c&l&c HAotxsa kdy<£ 
 AHAO/nwci&ere TutaeviMa eeoi 
 
 OTeCYNTHCtHACTH CAICINH 
 
 iereNOMHNTTAPAT(jJU.eAXnonl 
 
 \YTOiaLAIrePAPU>U.eMN°HHAWIOWNOIO 
 
 oTTeAACoAccM-WM/rANOcrroAloc 
 
 H4K£N<ueeAe/Ae'Afry77TieTaJce/ve7ro/aiv - 
 
 IPHeCMYeuJATTALLOIA AP/6C 
 
 rAios ioy moc Aioivcyo c 
 
 APXIAIKACTHCeEWNOC 
 
 APXfllKACTOYYOC KjAI av/D/VI 
 ^C^AC V nP<5THC OCAPAIMNOCTTAPMWCI^RO^ 
 APTCMI^POCTTTOAEMAIOVBAC lAIXoc 
 
 TOYMeTAAArrCCCYN BIOYAPOINOHCMI o^jPH^eiriMeMEMvo^oc 
 TUlNTE/tNOINAlAOYPI ClINOCTOY MlliO HAOON 
 APATOY K AITnoAEMAIOYETTeilEAAPIANOy 
 
 micaIoctoy (cypioy xoiax eiuyovHCKATOyAocrAroc//; 
 
 (CO I NTO C ATFOAM I A N C 60H 0OC 
 C 0UOlaJCHK.OVCA0-6TATa) HTTPTH 
 
 nPAAweNaiNTW aytoc rc j^hni 
 
 OOH8AIAOZ 
 XAIPekMYAICAICIMJ//2 
 
 TA N 
 
 ATTOAHICeXICIO 
 OX/TTPA/VYCrAM 
 OXTCC 
 
 HOfwAAXONTEC 
 
 rpy K,orrro c 
 
 AATdJNIIATP HC 
 
 ° £N ""CAIV5 AVD 
 
 VOIHI 
 
 /'I OYHAKAPHfiOC- lleOclolNo 
 AAieMNCUNHM-.-- PIM C 
 
 aecmxaj^xiePC- peefNl 
 
 eXTTACHCfT IMC/tC 
 
 oc/ce>>en' im€kc_ 
 
 kl&JNTAIT- — nAn\v. 
 K.YNHM/A0MOON9 
 
 pTT-X'MOW.L , 
 
 'I ch o X-imunTooh 
 
 AOVK.AC 
 GJ PAC fTH K.KC 
 „APKI0CC/M0r6HC0YAV0NMeTATO*H 
 CANTOCUO/NGJKeANTAa'A^eN U.OAAC _ 
 
 /aaomTontoc „, .'oy*cicoyAANoceAeAAe\oc/oc 
 WyiHefoTAceMeMraWPMiAM cmmracrPuwivsicrH a,^«htw 
 «0CMHT«CT0PPIMen7>NC ATO*AA/±AI>TAP°YAe/A»Af/ eeA- 
 NOMHNMfTNA6ITAPA£J»(eNAeOM COICHMNONHWCAKTOCHAlumm 
 '"/in fMTIHRIOAT/CV.STRUIVA'V.S WHAYBE/CACOYAeMACATTC (££/ 
 CXXTl OEIOTXIIIXIVI OYCACAe«.A/CT7EICACT£AA^rr 
 
 AYAHfroTTPoce tun oyaoa- ezAcowrac WTOAccoiy APAicro/yrn 
 V\wK7ccy*«sac/t/i/P/AoycHorAcero occnTETAVT uI'iKTATot 
 
 HKOYCA AAfPoAerTAPIOVTOtrFoeKytlHUA 
 
 rerATA 
 
 '7 
 
 2»fKAIA:M/ATPe66vAlACUH4AtlAPrOC(W6X0AOCOY -PeETr//. 
 
 '/ erwtAA/coycACA ToVAeue^MoA/oc 
 eepAyce K^iaaycw c u.ero \<A e to* a. i 00 n 
 
 d"Ao«pypoAl.<//THCTTPOC06Ae/yA\ol/ryXHC 
 
 m A ^VcAl-ocToYcAAcA'Poycec aKoym^moy: 
 (peer /A AYOC6TT epxo,aeKATAAmojMTcxJ/A^cj/ 
 Y/cu...ffHM-(X)A/&)ToyAoee/MHC -toaioqj 
 merry ■'AtuenHNf^nn^ 
 
 \'PAi.oY/AA/OC 
 WA/rrrroe 
 
 M-voA/Toyee^oTi-roy 
 
 AVTO K./'ATO/'OCAA/VAAO 
 IKooyoWTOCETTTDC 
 
 EKAyoA-AYAHCAMTOCEralTryA/OLJ BALftfM/ 
 
 PijJ.VAT^C 0£/A£ MEMiVOCWPAMEUe „ 
 WAeov >MO/A£P.4TA/6AClAH/a/TYW£ C/tS/Ai/t 
 
 UjPAriETTPUJTAEAAlOCHXXE APOMOC. 
 KO/ P 4 \ UJ IAAP/AN (UTTEMTTT A ER ATU A£ 
 
 .. «i)AyTUlAA£XECK£4A0YPE«OC; 
 ..KA/TTEcyPAEI«OCTOJ TJ eUTTTO' 
 ...AAAA^TTXAV'VOCAOYP 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 in between the hills to the north eaft, and came to the temple L, in the 
 thirty-fifth plate, which had been a convent: There are no hieroglyphics 
 on the outfide; the cornices over the doors are fluted, and adorned with 
 the winged globe ; the capitals of the pillars are much of the fame fort as 
 thofe of Affouan, in the plate of capitals. After I had viewed all thefe 
 things, I returned to the river. 
 
 The people had come rudely to the boat when I was abfent, and had 
 faid that they would fee whether this ftranger would dare come out an- 
 other day, having taken great umbrage at my copying the inferiptions ; 
 and they had dropt fome cxpreflions as if they would alTault the boat by 
 
 10: 
 
 of the Egyptian Mercury were. Anubis Teems 
 to be their Mercury ; and poffibly thofe figures 
 that are reprefented with fomething in each of 
 their hands that hangs down, and one foot before 
 another, as in a pofture to glide fwiftly along, 
 
 : and execute the commands of the Deity, may be 
 the emblems of the mefTenger of Jove •, but 
 thefe ftatues have in their hands the Htuus and 
 whip, the common emblems of Ofiris, and it may 
 be of Ifis alfo. But if by Mercurial ftatues are 
 
 ' meant ftatues of a certain form, fuch as were 
 commonly placed to direct the roads and to fhew 
 the bounds, which originally might be ftatues 
 
 ■ of Mercury in a certain fhape, fiich as we call 
 Terms, and feem to have their rife from the fta- 
 
 i tues rcprefented as bound round like mummies ; 
 i thefe are very common in Egypt, and probably 
 I few temples were without diem -, and fuch ftatues 
 i there might be in the temple, to which thefe two 
 j great ftatues led. As to the cutting inferiptions on 
 i ihe ftatue, it is faid, that it is probable they thought 
 i they could not do a greater honour to the ftatue, 
 i than to cut on it the teftimonies of fo many perfons 
 that heard the found, fo many epigrams in honour 
 of the ftatue, and one particularly in the front of 
 the pedeftal, all which would make any one con- 
 clude, that this ftatue was fomething more than 
 i ordinary. Nor is it probable that they fhould cut 
 thefe teftimonies on a ftatue near a mile from 
 i that which uttered the found.; it is more rational 
 i to think they would have cut them on the walls 
 i or pillars near that ftatue, if not. on the ftatue 
 ; itfelf : And whoever this great ftatue rcprefented, 
 it is probable it wa3 a perfon or Deity as much 
 to be regarded as Memnon, to whom fuch a vaft 
 figure of one ftone was erected, the largeft, it 
 may be, in Egypr, to whom it would be a much 
 greater difhonour to cut thefe inferiptions on his 
 
 ■ ftatue that were in honour of another, who was a 
 •King of Egypt, though we fuppofe he was deified, 
 
 As to what Juvenal mentions, 
 
 Dimidio magics refonant ubi Memnone chords. 
 
 Satyr, xv. 
 
 no more can be implied than that the found 
 came from the half of the ftatue that remained. 
 Though the teftimony of a poet is of no great 
 weight, yet it mult be obferved, that it was the 
 half that remained of the ftatue that uttered the 
 found ; that whenever it was repaired, the ftones 
 laid on it were" not to be confidered as a part of 
 the miraculous ftatue, as they pretended it to be, 
 but only what was left of the antient ftatue that 
 made a noife about fun rife ; not but that the 
 ftatue might be as well repaired after Juvenal's 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 time as before it, and if it was repaired before 
 his time, Juvenal might be ignorant of it when 
 he writ that Satyr : And in cafe it was then re- 
 paired, and that he knew it, yet it might itill be 
 laid, that the half of the ftatue uttered the found. 
 It may aifo have fome weight, that there is a tra- 
 dition among the people, that this is the ftatue 
 that made the noife. They have aifo the cir- 
 cumftance of the time, and if they arc afked if 
 it founds now, they anlwer it does; but are fo 
 abfurd as to fay, they know nobody that ever 
 heard it. 
 
 Thefe ftatues being alfo towards Medinet-Habou, 
 doubtlefs the antient Papa, as has been obferved, 
 may be of fome weight. 
 
 Sicard alfo mentions thefe two ftatues, as thofe 
 of which Strabo has faid fo much ; and yet, as if 
 he had not well confidered that author, (peaks of 
 a third ftatue as the ftatue of Memnon, that 
 made a noife at fun rifing. 
 
 " Trois ftatues coloffales, les deux premieres, 
 " dont a tant parle Strabon, font remplie d'une 
 " vingtaine d'inferiptions, foit Grecques foit La- 
 M tines ; la troifieme eft la ftatue du Roy Memnon, 
 " que, felon la tradition des antiens Egyptiens, 
 " rendoitun fonau leverdu foleil." Vol. vii. ch.7- 
 
 They mention alfo one argument more, which 
 they think has not a little weight, and this is 
 founded on the obfervation of Paufanias ; that 
 the Thebans denied this was the ftatue of Mem- 
 non, though the opinion of every body elfe, 
 (as appears by thefe inferiptions, and feveral hi- 
 ftorians) fecms to have been, that it was his ftatue; 
 but the Thebans faid it was the ftatue of Phame- 
 nophes, an inhabitant of that country: And 
 what is remarkable, Vanfleb gives an account 
 which he had from father Portais ; that at Habou 
 are two ftatues to be feen a great way off, one 
 being of a man, the latter of a woman, the former 
 is allied Sciama, the other Famaj fo that the re- 
 mains of the antient name feem to be plainly 
 retained. 
 
 Paufanias's words are thefe, 'AaAojjS c'w M^i/ov* 
 
 Paulanias, 1. i. c. 42. 
 
 And Vanfleb exprefies himfelf in the following 
 manner : " A une ljeue deca il y a line ancienne 
 f* ville appellee Habu, ou 1'on vokaufli plulieurs 
 11 belles curiofitees, & entre autres des momies. 
 " On y decouvre de fort loin deux ftatues, Tune 
 " d'un homme, &c l'aurre d'une femme ; les gens 
 M du pais appellent celle-la Sciama & celle-ci 
 " Fama : elles paroiffent etre pour le moins aufli 
 " grandes que 1' Abulhon ou Ie fphinx, qui etc 
 M vis-a-v-s du Cayre." Vanfleb, p. 410. 
 
 E e night, 
 
10 6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 night, if I ftaid, which, without doubt they faid, that they might make 
 me go away, for they feemed defirous that I mould leave the place; as 
 ftrongly poffeffed with a notion of a power that Europeans have of find- 
 ing treafures, and conveying them away by magic art ; they might alfo 
 be envious of the Sheik, imagining that I made him great prefents. I 
 talked, notvvithftanding, of going abroad the next day, being defirous, if 
 poflible, to fee the temple of Medinet-Habou, which the Sheik's fon 
 feem'd to promife me ; but I found thefe two governors of the neighbour- 
 ing villages were not friends, and when the Sheik came to the boat, we 
 inform' d him of what had paffed ; he faid I had feen every thing very well, 
 and wrote a letter to the Sheik of Furfhout ; and then he advifed me to 
 depart, and to go on as faft as we could all night. This place I faw in 
 my return. 
 
 Luxerein. When I had feen Carnack, I went up the river, a fmall league to Luxe- 
 rein, or Lacfor on the feventeenth of January, being very early in the 
 morning. I carried a letter and a prefent to the Sheik ; and the Sheik's 
 fon of Carnack came to me here, and very civilly provided a dinner, 
 and ftaid with me all day. I view'd the remains of the large and mag- 
 nificent temple there, which without doubt was a part of the antient 
 Thebes on the eaft fide of the river. That grand building anfwers very 
 well to the particular defcription Diodorus gives of the fepulchre of Ofy- 
 manduas, which, he fays, was a mile and a quarter in circumference j a 
 plan of it may be feen in the fortieth plate. 
 
 Firft he fays there was a gateway 1 two hundred feet long, exaftly an- 
 fwering to the meafure of the pyramidal gate G. it was fixty-two feet and 
 a half high. From the upper part of two ftatues B. above this ground, re- 
 prefented in the forty-firft plate, without this gateway, it appears that 
 the ground is very much rifen ; the gateway is now about fifty-four feet above 
 the ground ; and I fhould imagine that the gate was higher than Diodorus 
 mentions, as the ground feems to have rifen more than eight feet and a 
 half j but thefe ftatues being thirteen feet and a half above ground, if we 
 fuppofe they were fitting, they muft be near twenty feet at leaft under 
 ground; unlefs they were half ftatues, fuch as are mentioned in the tem- 
 ple of Carnack. They are of grey granite marble that has large fpots of 
 white in it, ; the fhoulders are about three feet and a half above ground ; 
 the neck and head, to the cap, meafure five feet, and the cap as much 
 more. Thefe are probably the ftatues mentioned by Diodorus, but he feems 
 to fpeak of them as in another part of the temple, and describes them as 
 twenty-feven cubits high, each of them made of one ftone. The ftatue 
 to the weft differs little from the other, except that on the forehead there 
 is an ornament of a ferpent; the pilafter behind them, cut out of the 
 fame piece, in one is fquare like an obelisk, and comes half way up 
 the cap behind; the pilafter of the other not being fo thick; the or- 
 nament on the head feems to be the half of two dome leaves ; the head 
 itfelf may be fuppoled to have been defigned to be as high as the part of 
 the cap that fets out, being three feet deep, and the remainder of the 
 cap three feet more, fo that the head being near feven feet long, the 
 whole ftatue, if ftanding, would be about fifty feet high, and fitting, about 
 thirty-four feet high, computing feven heads to the whole body; fo that 
 
 1 'O TlilKm. Diodorus i. p. 44. irrto %nir,jum Sit pmhttif, %M K, umi 
 
 * K«t* li% rev TtfwvToiov 7s~%av vW^eiv Diodorua i, p. 45, 
 
 " ' if 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 i 
 
 if they were fitting, the ground muft have rifen above feventeen feet; To 
 the north of thefe, at AA. are two obelisks, that probably are the fined 
 in the world ; they are now above the ground fixty feet high, and might 
 be feventy or eighty according as the ground has rifen. They are (even feet 
 and a half fquare, and at bottom might be eight feet : The hieroglyphics 
 are cut in with a flat bottom, an inch and a half deep ; and the granite 
 has perfectly retain'd its polifh, which is the fineft I ever faw. The 
 hieroglyphics are in three columns down every fide ; at top, on each fide, 
 a perfon fits on a throne, and one offers fomething on his knees : Thefe 
 figures are likewife below. Lower are three hawks, then three bulls, and 
 at about the diftance of every four is an owl. I alfo obferved among the 
 hieroglyphics, ferpents, infects, dogs, hares, monkies, birds, and heads of 
 camels ; they are exceedingly well preferved, except that about half of the 
 pyramid of the weftern obelisk is broke off, and the fouth weft corner of 
 the eaftern one is a little batter'd for about fix feet high. 
 
 In the front of the pyramidal gate there are windows over the falfe 
 doors a a. which are about ten feet from the top of the building ; in the 
 front of it, among other figures, is one reprefented fitting on a. throne, 
 holding out one hand, which has a ftaff or fceptre in it; the figures are in 
 poftures of adoration. On the other fide, one who has on the fame fort 
 of cap as the other, is reprefented on a car as gallopping and fhooting, 
 with a bow, and many chariots after him. This may relate to the wars 
 of this King againft the Eactrians k , which our author defcribes as cut on 
 the walls in another part of the building ; as the other may be the homage 
 the captives paid to him, mention'd alfo as carved on the walls '. Next he 
 gives an account of a court m four hundred feet fquare. This may be the 
 colonnade D. tho' the meafures do not anfwer. Pofiibly it might have 
 been near four hundred feet wide, extending a hundred feet further to the 
 water, and as much on the other fide. Inftead of pillars, he fays it was 
 adorn'd with beafts cut out of one ftone four and twenty feet high, exe- 
 cuted after the antient manner, and it was cover'd with ftones twelve feet 
 long, the ceiling being adorn'd with fculptures of ftars, and painted with 
 azure. In that manner a portico might be built on each fide, with the 
 colonnade as reprefented in the middle. This court is almoft all inha- 
 bited, and fill'd up with little cottages within the lines mark'd in the 
 plan, fo that I could not go into it ; but from the pillars I faw, I con- 
 cluded the colonnade was continued as it is reprefented ; at d. I faw the 
 top of the cap of a ftatue of red granite, juft above the ground, which 
 might be the remains of one of the fmaller ftatues, and there feem to 
 have been coloffal ftatues at the pedeftals e e. The pillars of the court 
 are as Numb. 3 . in the firft plate of columns. Beyond this colonnade he 
 fays there was another entrance and gateway much the fame as the other, 
 except that the fculpture was ftill finer. This feems to have been the py- 
 ramidal gate E. as I took it to be, which is much deftroy'd. At the en- 
 trance he mentions three ftatues, each of one ftone, the work of Memnon 
 Sicnites, who doubtlefs was a very famous fculptor ; one of them was fit- 
 ting, and the largeft in Egypt, the foot of it being ten feet and a half 
 long. He makes mention of many other particulars of the ftatues, and 
 
 vsatepw Tfl* yuapwav WTu 5T£0f TBf ev TS^ Bajt7&<0(r (3jfcr;A£ai( dyoptvxt. DiodorUS ibid. 
 
 «Vsfoiv7«f. Diodorus ibid. m This he calls to mztsvxw, a colonnade. 
 
 efpecially 
 
 2 
 
io8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ■efpecially the very remarkable infcription that was on this vaft colofl'us ". 
 " I am the King of Kings, Ofymanduas : If any would know how great 
 ' : I am, and where I lie, let him exceed the works that I have done." 
 This ftatue, without doubt, has been broken to pieces and carried away, 
 as there are not the leaft figns of it. Beyond this gateway was another 
 court ° much finer than the laft, containing the hiftory of the King, cut 
 all round the walls, and there was a very large and beautiful altar in the 
 middle of it, in the open air. This feems to comprehend the courts F. and 
 G. unlefs the former might be look'd on only as the entrance to it, which 
 is not improbable. The fuppofed gateway H. is only from conjecture, 
 there being nothing but a rude heap of ftones ; and the area G. feems to 
 be a very proper place for the magnificent altar that is defcribed. And 
 poffibly thofe ruins I fuppofe in the plan to be remains of a pyramidal 
 gateway, might be the buildings of this altar, which might be of fuch a 
 defign as that of the temple of jerufalem, built ol large ftones. The pil- 
 lars in this court are forty feet high, and are of the order Numb. 6. in 
 the plate of capitals. The work of the capitals is not in relief, but only 
 cut out in lines. He next mentions a place like thofe rooms, that were 
 built on purpofe for mufick, which may be the apartment I. tho' his 
 meafures do not agree. The pillars are fuch as Numb. 6. in the firft 
 plate of columns, and fo are moft of the others in the rooms beyond. He 
 after fpeaks of feveral apartments to walk in, and gives a particular ac- 
 count of the beautiful fculpture they were adorn'd with, which gnight be 
 fome porticos and rooms on each fide, that are now deftroy'd. 
 
 He then gives an account of the facred library, with that remarkable in- 
 fcription on it: "The repofitory of the remedies for the foul p ." This might 
 confift of the two rooms K. In thofe rooms are the figures in the forty- 
 fecond plate, except the loweft ; one is a Deity carried in a fort of boat by 
 eighteen men, preceded and follow'd by a perfon with a particular enfign 
 in his hand ; the upper one has no perfon appearing on it, but a fort of 
 cover in the middle of it, and is carried only by twelve men, there being 
 no one before it '. I obferved one figure on the walls had a tortoife on the 
 head for a cap, in another part a man leading four bulls with a firing, 
 which were cut as on four floors mark'd with a line one over another, 
 and in feveral parts inftruments of facrifice. I remarked alfo in a compart- 
 ment, a figure fitting, and one kneeling before it, on whofe cafque the 
 fitting figure puts his left hand, having the crofs, with a handle to it, in 
 his right. Another with a hawk's head holds his left hand over the head 
 of the perfon that kneels, having the fame fort of crofs in his right hand. 
 Behind him is a fhort figure, which feem'd to have wings on the fide of 
 his head. Below them are three perfons kneeling, with kawks heads. It 
 is difficult to fay whether or no this might be the King offering gold and 
 filver to the Deity, that he received yearly out of the mines of Egypt, 
 which Diodorus fays was cut on fome part of the walls of the temple '. 
 I obferved a door here with a ftrait top within ; but without it was cut in 
 
 n B«fftAEiIf BktAswi 'Ojujwa^Jac npi ei Jf t;? ^ Not having taken a drawing of the men, the 
 HSiioA QiKilu* ts^ix®* >^ kh^sm, mxzZtv u exaft manner in which they are reprcfented is not 
 twi< Bjwav.eg^-ftiv. Diodorus i. p. 44. to be anfwcr'd for. 
 
 'o sree/Ta?©*. Diodorus i. p. 45, r Diodorus ibid. 
 
 P yv*/r,s 'i»t£wv. Diodorus ibid. 
 
 an 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 an arch, fpmething like the fliell of a niche, which might firft give the 
 thought for the arch in Egypt. With the library he mentions about twenty 
 apartments, in which are the reprefentations of Jupiter, Juno, and the 
 King, with feveral rooms about them, in which were cut in the moft cu- 
 rious manner, all the facred animals of Egypt. Thefe feem to be thofe 
 feveral apartments on each fide, and many more that have been deftroy'd, 
 which probably made the building all the way of the fame breadth. At 
 laft he comes to the fepulchre itfelf, which I take to have been at L. He 
 fpeaks of afcending to it, and over the grand apartment there is another 
 low room, where the body of Ofymanduas might be depofited; in which, 
 it feems, there was a plate of gold that probably often went round the 
 room, fo as to be three hundred fixty-five cubits in length, and a cubit 
 thick, or rather broad ; on each of which cubits was cut the rifing and 
 fetting of all the ftars for every day in the year, and the effects the Egyp- 
 tian aftrologers attributed to them, according to their different difpofitions. 
 This great treafure they fay Cambyfes and the Perfians carried away. The 
 entablature round this room is very rich, as reprefented in the forty- third 
 plate. Our author alfo obferves that near the library were figures of all 
 the Gods of Egypt, with the King making a proper prefent to every one of 
 them ; and thefe I take to be the figures reprefented in the front of the 
 building of the fuppofed fepulchre in the forty-third plate, where it is 
 probable the middle figure fitting is Ofiris, with five Gods on each fide '. 
 The ftone below, which is reprefented with a dark fhade, is a very parti- 
 cular red ftone, which I faw went through to the upper room, and poffibly 
 on it might be cut a relief of the King offering his gifts to the feveral 
 Deities. This was certainly a very proper reprefentation at the fepulchre 
 of this great King, to fet forth, as our author obferves, to Ofiris and the 
 Gods that were with him, that he had finifh'd a life fpent in acts of piety 
 towards the Gods, and of juftice to mankind '. Another thing is very re- 
 markable in the front, that a building is mark'd out on it, that fhews 
 fomething of a very fine tafte, and that the Egyptians had a notion of a 
 beautiful difpohtion of lights, and of architecture in general, where it was 
 proper to make ufe of fuch buildings, which we may fuppofe was not 
 convenient for temples, that are generally built without windows, and with 
 maffive walls, that have no other variety in them, than that of hierogly- 
 phics. 
 
 Here I finifli d my obfervations on the antient city of Thebes, celebrated 
 by the firft of poets and hiftorians that are now extant ; that venerable 
 city, the date of whofe ruin is older than the foundation of moft other 
 cities ; and yet fuch vaft and furprizing remains are ftill to be feen of fuch 
 magnificence and folidity, as may convince any one that beholds them, 
 that without fome extraordinary accidents, they muft have lafted for ever, 
 which feems to have been the intention of the founders of them. 
 
 As the city of Thebes was fo antient, fciences fiourifh'd in it very early, 
 particularly aftronomy and philofophy ; in which the priefts " efpecially 
 
 E Thefe words of Diodoms feem to be a very 1 See s. 
 
 juft defcription of thefe figures, as here repre- u AlyovTou ^ u^ava^ot «, ipiAs'o-otpoi y.aAi;u oi 
 
 fented; in which the Gods are made as fitting be- hlxvQx h^;. Strabo xvii. p. Si 6. 
 
 low Ofiris, as a fort of afleffors to him. O/ 2} 0>j£aioi' qjamy °cujt£s ct'^aMDlceTsf eivau jr«V 
 
 xk'tw zrafEe^ar, oti tov (i!cv l|sT^e«B dlciQw itj &xeuo- fi^t-o&oy jtj tjJv It Uk&GU «V§oAcj<i<jti\ Diodorus i. 
 
 n&ym u^s rt «\9fw7T8f ^ ©e»f. Diodorus ibid, p. 46. 
 
 Vol. I. F f were 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 were very well verfed, and firft fet themfelves to regulate the time, and 
 meafured it by folar months and years. 
 
 I muft not omit to obferve that fome are of opinion that Sheba is 
 Thebes ; and fuppofe the Greeks, having no way of writing the former 
 name, alter'd it to Thebai. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 From Thebes to Erment, Esne, Etfou, Ombos, 
 and Assouan the old Syene near the CataraiSls. 
 
 Erment, the T LEFT Luxerein in the evening, and we came to Erment on the 
 S HmBOn ~ _| weft, which is the antient city Hermonthis, in which Apollo and Ju- 
 piter were worfhipped w ; it was the capital of a province of that name. 
 I faw the ruins of it when I return'd. We went to the Sheik's houfe, 
 who conducted us to the old city, the ground of which is very much 
 raifed, in the midft of a large plain ; it feem'd to have been between three 
 and four miles round. There are remains of the fmall temple A. in the 
 forty-fourth plate, which feems to be of great antiquity ; it might be the 
 temple in which Apollo was worfhipped, becaufe of the great number of 
 hawks that are cut in it ; the frieze is adorn'd with them in a very parti- 
 cular manner, as in the drawings of the entablatures. The ante-temple 
 B. is very much deftroy'd ; the enclofure C. round it, and the temple 
 itfelf, are very particular, but little remains except the foundations. The 
 inner temple D. is intire ; there are flairs up to the top, through the wall, on 
 one fide of the building, which is about twenty-five feet high "j it is adorn'd 
 with hieroglyphics within and without. On the outfide are four ftories of 
 hieroglyphics of men, but only three appear within. In the ceiling of 
 the firft room there are five hawks with fpread wings ; in the fecond room 
 feven, and two rams face to face ,• the reft of the ceiling is adorn'd with 
 ftars, and on each fide are fome fmall hieroglyphics with human bodies, 
 and the heads of a great variety of beads; and on each fide of a large 
 hawk are two perfons holding out both their hands to the bird. It is faid 
 that a facred bull was worfhipped here; and one would imagine that this 
 was the place where he was kept, for at one end of the inner room two 
 bulls are cut in the ftone, and a great number of women with children in 
 their laps held to their breafts. A little nearer the river, on one fide of 
 the temple, is a deep bafin, as of a pond : At fome diftance from that 
 are the ruins of a building that was erefted on the beautiful plan E. I 
 fhould think the defign too fine for a Chriftian church, built on the firft 
 eftablifhment of Chriftianity in the fourth century, and fhould rather ima- 
 gine that it might have had fome alterations made in it at that time; for it 
 i >pears to have been a church, from croffes cut on iome of the ftones, and 
 Coptic paintings and inferiptions in many parts ot it that are plaifter'd ; 
 but there are very little remains, except at the weft end, where the rooms 
 
 " MiT* J? e;S»!t tfgdSfs ec'aic, !i j S,n 'Aot'a- * The ifairs and door to the third room are on 
 km tyuSrw, *, •' Zfv;' TjiifsTKi Is (3»t. the right_hand, which by miftake are engraved 
 
 Strabo xvii. p. 816. on the left. 
 
 had 
 
y- r g g 
 
 jBMAJSTS Lftuo Temples Erment - 
 
ON EGYPT. a 
 
 had galleries over them, which might be for the women. I obferved forne 
 of the niches, which appear'd to have been hewn into a rough fhell at 
 top, as if they had been built at firft with a ftrait top ; the pillars feem to 
 have been of one ftone or red granite, after the Greek architecture of the 
 Corinthian order ; it is probable the femicircles and rooms at each end 
 were made by the Chriftians. This might be the temple to Jupiter, and 
 rebuilt in the Greek tafte under the government of the Ptolemies. 
 
 On the eighteenth we went on with very little wind, and . fhot at a 
 crocodile, as he was on his legs going into the water from a fandy ifle, 
 and had reafon to think the ball ftruck him ; for, contrary to their ufual 
 cuftom of walking in flowly, he open'd his mouth after the fhot, and 
 jump'd five or fix feet into the water. We paffed by two little hills on 
 the weft, call'd Jebelin (The hills;) on one there is a Sheik's tomb, and 
 there feem'd to me to be fome ruins on the other. This I thought might 
 be Aphroditopolis, that is the city of Venus, rather than the city of Cro- Aphrodi 
 codiles that Strabo firft fpeaks of, for a reafon 1 fhall hereafter mention. P olk 
 On the nineteenth we came to Efne on the weft, a confiderable town for e&« 
 thefe parts; we went afhoar and ftaid about an hour, and the men want- 
 ing a large ftone for ballaft, the people knowing we were Europeans, 
 would not let them take it into the boat, faying, that the Franks, if they 
 took away that ftone, would by their magic art, draw away their hidden 
 treafures. The Arab intereft here is under the Sheik ofFurfhout; under 
 him there are two Serifs or relations of Mahomet, that have the chief in- 
 fluence in the town; but there is a Cadi, and alfo a Cafhif, who as I ap- 
 prehend, is fent under the Bey of Girge. There are about a hundred 
 Chriftians in the town, and two priefts, who have a large church. 
 
 I faw this place, and the antiquities about it, in my return. I had let- 
 ters to the Cafhif, who was abfent, but I had feen him above, fo his 
 people were ready to go with me. I carried letters I had to one of the 
 Serifs, and likewife a prefent, and he went with me to fee the temple on. 
 the north fide of the town. I carried alfo letters and a prefent to ano- 
 ther Greenhead, who feem'd to be a very worthy man. 1 had not been 
 long in my boat before he fent me a prefent of bread, a kid, and fome 
 other things I wanted, and fent to me to draw my boat near to his bark, 
 where he faid I fhould be more fecure by night. The next day he went 
 with me and the Cafhif 's people about three miles to the north north weft, 
 to an antient temple A. in the forty-fifth plate. As I faw the figure of a 
 woman fitting, cut in feveral parts of the wall, I conjectured that this 
 might be the temple of Pallas at Latopolis, where both that Deity and the LmopoK 
 fifh Latus were worfhipped. The narrow paffage on each fide feems to 
 have been for the fame defign as in fome other temples, fome way or other 
 to impofe on the people j and the little cell B. might be to keep fome fa- 
 cred animal in; it is about three feet above the floor of the rooms, and 
 near eight feet high; The capitals of the pillars in this temple are fome- 
 thing like the Corinthian, but with a very flat relief, fome of them be- 
 ing but little higher than if mark'd out with lines. There are feveral forts 
 of capitals, one of which is the fourth in the plate of capitals. Within the 
 temple are three ftories of hieroglyphics of men about three feet high, and 
 ■ at one end the loweft figures are as big as the life ; one of them I obferved 
 had the head of the Ibis. The ceiling is curioufly adorn'd with all forts 
 3 °f 
 
ii2 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of animals, and painted in very beautiful colours; among them I obferved 
 a figure fitting on what appear'd like a boat, with a circle round him, 
 and two inftruments at one end, as reprefented in the loweft figure of the 
 forty-fecond plate. I obferved alfo a ram with a crofs on his head, fomc- 
 what like the handle of a fword, and acrofs his neck was fomething re- 
 fembling wings. Among the animals I obferved the beetle, and a fort of 
 fcorpion; all the hieroglyphics are very well cut, but fome of them are 
 defaced. This temple appears to have been ufed as a church, and 1 faw 
 fome Coptic infcriptions on the wall in black letters, and they told me 
 that there had been a convent there, fo that the temple feems to have been 
 turn'd to that ufe. On the north fide of the town of Efne, there is ano- 
 ther temple C. in the forty-fifth plate. The pillars are almoft all diffe- 
 rent, but fomething approaching the Corinthian order, and fhaped like 
 the capital mention'd before in the other temple. This whole building is 
 very richly carved with hieroglyphics. I faw one man with the goat's 
 head, and a man with a crocodile's head is cut over the middle door that 
 is oppofite to the entrance. There are feveral others in the walls with 
 crocodiles heads likevvife, and alfo fome crocodiles ; which makes me think 
 CityotCro- that this was the city of Crocodiles, where that beaft was worfhipped, as 
 co lies. s traDO obferves j ; tho' he mentions the city of Crocodiles before Aphro- 
 ditopolis and Latopolis, whereas if the city of Crocodiles "were put laft 
 inftead of firft, it would agree with the fituation I give thefe places. 
 The old city feems to have been to the north about this temple, and at 
 the end of the town I faw the remains of an antient quay of ruftic ftone 
 work, with ftairs down to the river. A mile to the fouth of Efne is the 
 monaftery of St. Helen, by whom they fay it was founded : It has been 
 more commonly call'd the convent of the martyrs, and it was a place of 
 great devotion. It appears to have been a great burial ground, the fpot 
 where they buried the dead not being lefs than a mile round. Many of 
 the tombs are magnificent, being a dome on four arches, with a little 
 cupola on the top, fomething refembling the holy fepulchre, and built of 
 brick. Some of them have a crofs, others the eagle cut on them, and a 
 fhort Greek infeription *. It is a very indifferent convent, and the church 
 is mean. There are only two monks in it, who cannot marry ; but their 
 relations, both women and children, live in the convent : This is the laft 
 church in Egypt. I made them a prefent of fome incenfe, knives, and 
 fciffars; and they entertain'd us with what they could provide. To the 
 north of the convent there is fome wood, and cotton fhrubs of the per- 
 ennial kind ; on the eaft fide alfo I faw the fenna. I obferved here at a 
 diftance from the river, that they dig large holes in the ground about 
 fifteen feet deep to make bricks ; and the water of the Nile comes into 
 them, and they raife it by buckets to water the ground. 
 
 It has been faid that there are quarries of porphyry and granite about 
 ten miles north weft of Efne ; but fome writers of travels do not diftinguifh 
 porphyry from granite, and it is probable that the quarries they mention 
 may be only of the latter. 
 
 f "Kuala. KfoituJa'tov aro>,i; n^Ssm tJ &«&>V <Sr« ■ On many of them, as well as about the con- 
 'Asf^aSiivn sra'Ajf, ji, juera t«Jt« AetToVoAir, n^ma. vent, thefe words are cut : 
 'A&jj^kv >t, -rov A«'tdv. Strabo xvii. p. 817. Here 
 
 Crocodilopolis is put firft, but poflibly the order Eft i BtiiOt'r. 
 
 of the words may have been tranfpofed. 
 
 About 
 
\ 
 
O N E G Y P T. 113 
 
 About fifteen miles above Efne, as I conjeftured, I faw on the weft the 
 remains of a wall about ten feet thick, and forty feet long, eight tiers of 
 ftone remaining of it. Here I thought there might be fome antient city, 
 and conjectured that it might be the city of Hawks '. We flopped at a 
 place where feveral other boats ftaid all night : Hearing us talk, they afk'd 
 if we were Franks; and the boatmen told the people that we were fol- 
 diers from the Grand Signor, for they cannot diftinguifh the Turkifh lan- 
 guage from any other. On the twentieth we came to Etfou, which I faw Etfou. 
 in my return : It was the city call'd Great Apollinopolis. They were here Apollinopo 
 declared enemies to the crocodile b . I went to the Sheik's houfe, and car- lls ' 
 ried the letter I had from the Sheik of Furfhout. When he knew who it 
 was from, he kifs'd the letter and put it to his forehead, which is a mark 
 of great refpect. I made him a handfome prefent, and he behaved very 
 humbly, and with great civility ; and when the letter was read, and I defired 
 to fee the ruins, he put his hand up to his head, which was a mark of his 
 compliance, and that he took me under his protection. He went himfelf 
 with me, and fhew'd me the temple ; a plan of which may be feen in the 
 forty-fixth plate, with the front of the grand pyramidal gate, and a fedtion 
 of it. In the front of it are cut coloflal figures in two ftories, fome ftand- 
 ing and fome fitting. Among thofe that were ftanding, I obferved three 
 pair ftanding face to face ; one figure near each corner is twenty feet 
 high, and has the hawk's head. Before I had entirely finifh'd meafuring 
 the temple, a great many people came about me, and giving my book to 
 my fervant when I meafured, a young man caught it out of his hand 
 and ran away with it : He was the Sheik's nephew, the brothers having 
 been competitors for the government of this village ; fo. they envied him 
 the prefents they imagined he might get, and the notions of treafures 
 likewife poffefs'd their minds. My fervant ran after him, and fo did the 
 Sheik. I continued on meafuring, and writing on another paper, till the 
 Sheik return'd with his pike, having thrown off his outward garment when 
 he went in fearch of his nephew, whom they fay he would have gone 
 near to have kill'd if he had met with him. He conducted me to his 
 houfe, and carried the matter fo far, that I was afraid we might have fuffer'd 
 in the tumult ; for they came to high words, his brother being favour'd by 
 many of the people : They faid it was hard thefe ftrangers could not leave 
 them to be quiet in their villages. I was very defirous to go to my boat ; 
 but it was faid the Sheik would take it ill if I would not ftay and eat with 
 him. In the mean time I was privately inform'd that I might have my 
 note book, if I would give about the value of a crown, which I con- 
 fented to, and it was accordingly brought me. We fat down to eat out 
 of a very large wooden bowl lull of their thin cakes, broke into very 
 fmall pieces, and a fyrup mix'd up with it. The Sheik himfelf fat at a 
 diftance, and did not eat with us ; he mounted his horfe, and attended 
 me to the boat: Some others alfo came, particularly the chief of the con- 
 trary party, for the village had been in rebellion againft their great head 
 at Furfhout. The Sheik made me a prefent of a fheep, came into the 
 boat, and order'd a letter to be written to the great Sheik. We fet fail, 
 and near an hour after the Sheik's fon came riding to the river, to let us 
 
 p. 817. jcgoxs&Usif. Strabo ibid. 
 
 Vol. I. G g know 
 
n 4 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 know that his father had been informed I had given money to have 
 my book reftored, and had obliged them to return the money, and had 
 fent it to me ; thus I experienced in this brave Arab fuch an extraordinary 
 inftance of fidelity, as is rarely to be met with. 
 
 Above Efne the country is very thinly inhabited, and the Nile broad. 
 Hajar-Siiciiy. We approach'd towards Hajar-Silcily, and fome time before I came to it, I 
 faw the rock on the weft, cut out as for a grand gate, and fouth of it 
 fome ruins and pillars: A little further fouth, I faw five regular entrances 
 into grottos, cut equally diftant in the rock ; above them a cornice or half 
 round appeared to have crowned the work, for only the half round re- 
 mained, it had alfo half rounds at the angles; a view of it may be feen 
 in the twenty fifth plate. Going on to Hajar-Silcily, or the rock of the 
 chain, I took particular notice of this remarkable place, where the Nile is 
 very narrow, I fuppofe not above a hundred yards over ; the rocks come to 
 the river on each fide, and the current is very ftrong. It has its name, be- 
 caufe it is faid a chain was drawn a-crofs to defend the pafs, and they 
 fhewed me a rock on the eaft fide, where they told me the chain was 
 fixed, which is reprefented in the eighth plate at C. The rock on the weft 
 fide is cut into four forts of niches, or fmall open temples for the worfhip 
 of fome Deities, as they feem to have been defigned; they are adorn'd 
 with cornices, pilafters and hieroglyphics; a plan and view of which I 
 have given in the forty-feventh plate. Here alfo are fome pillars cut out 
 of the rock, which are entire, with their pedeftals ; I meafured them ex- 
 actly, to fee if the Egyptian architecture could be brought to any rule. 
 On the rock over thefe works is a relief cut in an oblong fquare com- 
 partment, after the Greek tafte, confifting of a tree, a man on a horfe, 
 and another before as leading the beaft, with a pike in his hand, and an 
 infcription of eight fhort lines, exceedingly defaced. There was proba- 
 bly a garrifon at this place, and the people who were here might from 
 time to time caufe thefe things to be hewn out of the rock, in the way 
 of their religion. In our return, when I ftaid fome time afhore, the 
 boatmen cut down a tree ; fome labourers near fpoke to them not to do 
 it, and I likewife difcourag'd it ; but when the labourers were gone away, 
 they carried it into their boat : But after we had put off, we foon faw 
 fome horfemen appear, who probably had notice of our landing, and 
 if they had arrived fooner, might have had the good fortune to plun- 
 der us. The village of Pthonthis, mentioned by Ptolemy, as diftant from 
 the river, twenty four miles from Elephantine, and twenty from Apolli- 
 nopolis, might be at fome diftance to the weft, as the fituation agrees 
 pretty well with this account. We lay above this paflage, where the Nile 
 is very wide ; there is a fandy ground on each fide, being a gentle afcent, 
 and fo has been wafhed away by the waters, that muft be much confin'd 
 above this ftreight. We afterwards paffed by feveral fandy iflands, on 
 which we faw many crocodiles, on one there were near twenty of them, 
 which feem'd to be from fifteen to twenty feet long; we fhot at them, 
 and about half of them went into the water, and firing a lecond time 
 they all went off; there may be more crocodiles here than in any other 
 parts, as well becaufe the Ombites worfhipped them, and fuffered 
 none of them to be killed, as alfo by reafon that the cataracts are fo 
 near ; for when the crocodiles meet with rocks they retire, fo that if they 
 
 come 
 
ONEGYPT. 115 
 
 come from the lower parts, and can go only a little higher, it may be 
 natural for them to fettle about thefe iflands, fo convenient for their ly- 
 ing out of the water in the fun, and it may not be agreeable to them 
 to go down the ftrong current at the ftreight. We came to a large ifland, ' 
 and oppofite to it on the eaft fide to Com-Ombo, or the hill of Ombo, Com Omi-o, 
 which is the antient Ombos ; there are great ruins about the hill, bos. ° * 
 efpecially of an antient temple: I took a view of it, which may be feen 
 in the forty-eighth plate at A. The capitals of the pillars are in the beft 
 Egyptian tafte, adorned with leaves ; and there feems to have been at each 
 end of the fmall area, before the temple, fuch a grand gate as has been 
 defcribed at Thebes, of which the building to the fouth feemed to be 
 fome remains. The people cf Ombos were famous for the worfhip of 
 the crocodile, and iElian * gives an account that they fed them in their 
 marfhes, which 1 fuppofe were thefe low iflands; they were perfectly tame, 
 and obeyed when they were called. We went on to the port of Lafher- 
 rad, where the Cafhif of Elne was encamped ; we would have paffed him, 
 but they called to us, and the boatmen dar'd not to proceed: They 
 ftopp'd us the rather, as by the covering of the boat they conjectured we 
 were Europeans: I had letters to him, but did not know that he was 
 the perfon to whom they were directed; 1 carried him a prefent of to- 
 bacco, coffee, and fome other things (of which he faid there was no 
 need) and told him I was come to fee the antiquities, and defired him 
 to give me leave to view Com-Ombo, to which he readily confented ; 
 but the Arab Sheiks of Laflierrad, who were prefent, when they heard 
 of it, immediately cried out, that I muft not go to the hill ; and then 
 their difcourfe ran on the Europeans coming in fearch of treafures. When 
 I departed, the people of the Cafhif came aboard, and demanded pipes 
 and other things they faw ; and it was with much difficulty, by giving 
 them a little, that I got rid of them, and proceeded on my journey. 
 When 1 returned, the boatmen told me I might go afhore and fee the 
 ruins ; but I was contented with making the beft obfervations I could from 
 the water, fufpecting that the people of the country knowing my boat, 
 might have lain in ambufhj and if they had caught me afhore, would 
 at leaft have plunder'd us, if not detained me, till they might have a large 
 fum for my ranfom ; the people here being very little fubject to any go- 
 vernment. We went on and came to the ifles Alakiah and Manfunah, 
 both of them fine fruitful fpots; the former having a village on it; and 
 the country on the eaft is well cultivated : Higher up, the hills to the weft 
 ftretch towards the Nile in pretty high clifts, and on one of the hills over 
 the river, there is a fquare tower, which I obferved, leffens as it rifes ; and 
 they fay, it is an antient work. We after came to a fandy ifle; at the 
 end of it are feveral fmall rocks, which are the firft I faw in the Nile: 
 Going a little further, on the twenty firft in the evening, we arrived at 
 Affouan. 
 
 ffl\zm Hift. Animal. X. 
 
 rJx<Ti KctAxvToiv etvlw ei rgifyo^vai cv i<xX% Aipvxtf rou$ c. 21. Dc crocodiJis, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 2 
 
n5 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Of Assouan, Syene under the Tropic, Elephan- 
 tine, the Quarries of Granite, the Cataracls, PhyLjE, 
 and the borders of E t h i o p i a. 
 
 Affouan. \ SSOUAN is a poor fmall town, with a fort of fortrefs, or rather 
 J^\_ barrack for janizaries under their governor. Thefe foldiers have in 
 reality, the command of the country. There are only two Chriftians in 
 this place, one the fecretary of the Caimacam, the other a fervant of the 
 Aga's. I waited on the Aga of the janizaries with letters from Muftapha, 
 Aga of the janizaries at Girge, and from the Sheik of Furfhout; he 
 treated me with coffee, and made me a prefent of a lamb, and I fent him 
 a prefent of rice, tobacco, coffee and fome other things. He was fo civil 
 as to fend two janizaries to guard the boat, and invited me to take a 
 lodging in an apartment that belonged to his houfe, but feparate from it. 
 The Chriftian, fecretary of the Caimaicam, or civil governor, came to me 
 and fignified that I fhould make his mafter a prefent ; but the people and 
 janizaries in and about the boat fufpedHng him, afked what he faid, and 
 ordered him to go out of the boat, there being a jealoufy between the 
 military and civil power : This coming to the Aga's ears, he fent me word 
 I had no need to make prefents to any body ; and when I went to wait 
 on him, he repeated the fame, and that he would take me under his 
 protection, fo that no one mould injure me, and I removed to the lodg- 
 ings he allotted me. A Turk who was here on the part of Ofman Bey, 
 to colled fome taxes, had come to the boat, very kindly offered his ad- 
 vice on all occafions, came and vifited me, and brought me a prefent of 
 twelve pidgeons and fome dates : Some other Turks came to fee me, and 
 one, as a token of refpedt, brought me fo trifling a prefent as a bunch of 
 radifhes. The Aga alfo came to fee me. 
 
 On the height over Affouan are the ruins of the antient Syene which 
 is exactly under the tropic of Cancer. The prefent fortrefs, which has 
 two or three flight walls round it, of no more ftrength than a common 
 garden fence, is to the fouth of the prefent town, which is on a gentle 
 riling from the river, and extends to a height that is over the water, that 
 I fhould think was the north end of the antient Syene, the principal part of 
 which feems to have been on a lower hill to the fouth, though very high 
 from the river, and extended to a hill ftill further fouth, higher than 
 the other, and ftretching further to the weft, being a rock of red granite, 
 and full of ruins of unburnt brick, which we may fuppofe to be the re- 
 mains of Affouan, of the middle ages. 
 
 Syene. Syene, and particularly the antient forts there, are mentioned by Pliny as 
 
 in a peninfula : Whether this defcription may agree with a hill to the north, 
 that is to the weft of the prefent fort, which has water on three fides of it; 
 or whether a foffee might be cut through the lower ground on the north and 
 fouth fides of the fite of the antient Syene, and fo make it a fort of peninfu- 
 
 c 'H 3 2t^v>;, x, >J 'EteQavlm, w' f$ &n T oawv -I s exaff« isgou KvalffJ^, ^ Net AofitT&tov. Strabo. xvii. 
 Ai&ozrw, ii, 1? Aiyvnln sra'Aic" »j §' hi t» N«Aw arfo- p. 8 J 7' 
 
 la; 
 
ON EGYPT. 117 
 
 la ; it is not eafy to determine. Going further to the lower ground, between 
 the two hills near the river to the fouth weft, I faw two pillars of granite 
 ftanding, and two fort of extraordinary triangular pillars with their bafe 
 lying down, of which I have given a draught in the firft plate of co- 
 lumns. I conjeclured that poffibly folding doors might turn on the two 
 half rounds of them. Nearer the river I obferved two oblong fquare granite 
 pillars, all which may be the remains of fome antient temple. About 
 the middle, between the river and the . brow of the hilt to the eaft, I 
 found the building which poffibly might be the obfervatory, built over 
 the famous well, for making aftronomical obfervations, which is fo parti- 
 cularly defcrib'd by Strabo c ; of this building I have given an exacft draw- 
 ing in the forty-eighth plate: A. is the plan; B. the front; and C. the fe- 
 dtion. I imagine that the holes at top, which are much larger below than 
 above, were in order to try the experiment in relation to the fhadows at 
 noon day, as mentioned by Strabo. The building fronts to the eaft, and 
 whether the windows on each fide could be of any particular ufe in an 
 obfervatory of this kind, I cannot fay ; but it is to be particularly re- 
 mark'd, that the windows in the inner room are not placed oppofite to one 
 another. Strabo gives an account that there was a garrifon here of three 
 Roman cohorts. 
 
 From viewing the ruins of the antient Syene, I went about a mile Quarries of 
 fouth eaft to the granite quarries ; all the country to the eaft, the iflands s " mte ' 
 and bed of the Nile, being red granite, which is the Thebaic ftone men- 
 tioned by Herodotus; the quarries are not worked in deep, but the ftone is 
 hewn out of the fides of the low hills. I faw fome columns marked out 
 in the quarries, and fhaped on two fides, particularly a long fquare one, 
 which might be defigned for an obelifk ; they feem to have worked in 
 round the ftones with a narrow tool, and when the ftones were almoft 
 feparated, there is reafon to think they forced them out of their beds 
 with large wedges, of which there are great figns in the quarries in all 
 parts; in fome places I obferved channels mark'd out about three inches 
 wide, and holes cut in thofe channels at certain diftances, as if for their 
 chifels to go in, fo that probably they worked down with the chifels at 
 the bottom and on one fide of the ftone, and then forced the ftone out 
 of its bed with wedges. I could not find any other ground why fome 
 perfons have affirmed that there are pyramids here, but certain quarries 
 cut out into fteps up the fides of the hills, which may have caufed ig- 
 norant people to take them for the remains of pyramids, as fome of the 
 pyramids are built in that manner. 
 
 Oppofite to Syene is the ifland Elephantine, in which there was a city Elephantine, 
 of that name s . The ifland is about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile 
 broad to the fouth, ending in a point at the north ; there was a temple to 
 Cnuphis in this ifland, and a Nilometer to meafure the rife of the Nile ; 
 on it are remains of a fmall temple, of which 1 have given the plan D. in 
 the forty eighth plate. Before the temple is a ftatue, fitting with the hands 
 acrofs on the breaft, being about eight feet high, with a lituus in each 
 hand, which is particular, as may be feen in the drawing I have given of it. 
 
 £r£e/ y «f rgoffac, k, Stan tw Tg07riK«i xuxAw usrOKmliW SI Qgx&t Strabo, ibid. 
 
 TaVoi Strabo, i. xvii. p. 817, e See c. 
 
 Vol. 1. H h There 
 
n8 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 There is a wall built round part of it about a foot from the wall of the 
 temple, there being juft room enough for a perfon to enter, which pro- 
 bably was kept concealed, and might be built, as obferved before, to car- 
 ry on fome arts to deceive the people. On the wall before the temple is 
 a Greek infcription, which is defaced in many parts, but I have given it at 
 the end with other infcriptions. In the middle of the ifland there are re- 
 mains of one fide of a grand gate of red granite, finely adorn'd with hiero- 
 glyphics, which I fuppofe to have been one of the entrances to the temple 
 of Cnuphis, of which the above-mention'd building might be a part. The 
 earth is raifed up very much about this gate, and all over the fouth end 
 of the ifland, probably by the rubbifh of a town of the middle ages that 
 might be on the ifland, as there is now a very fmall village on it. The 
 fouth end of the ifland is high, being a rock of red granite, and on the 
 eaft fide are great remains of a high wall built by the water fide with win- 
 dows on it, of which I have given a view in the eighth plate at Y. It is very 
 probable that all this part of the ifland was defended by fuch a wall againft 
 the violent current, at the time of the rife of the Nile. 
 
 About this ifle there are feveral fmaller iflands, as two to the weft, and 
 four to the fouth, which are high above the water, and alfo feveral large 
 rocks of red granite ; two of them appear to have been work'd as quar- 
 ries, as well as the fouth end of Elephantine. Out of one of thefe iflands, 
 probably, that entire room was cut of one ftone, that was carried to Sais, 
 taking, it may be, the advantage of the fituation of the rock, fo as to have 
 only the labour of feparating the bottom of it from the quarry, and having 
 firft probably hollow'd the ftone into a room of the dimenlions defcribed 
 when 1 fpoke of Sais. 
 
 I crofted over to the Libyan fide, on the fouth weft of the ifland, where 
 there is a fandy valley, which probably was the bounds on the weft fide, 
 between Ethiopia and Egypt. Going about a mile in this valley, I came 
 to a large ruinous uninhabited monaftery, which I conjectured was dedi- 
 cated to St. George, his pidure, as big as life, being painted on the walls ; 
 and there are feveral other bad paintings in the church, and fome Copti 
 infcriptions about the walls. The eaft fide of the Nile was inhabited by 
 Arabs, as far as Meroe ; but Herodotus fpeaks of Egypt as beginning at 
 Elephantine, and fays that the Ethiopians inhabited one half of the ifland h , 
 tho' Ptolemy takes into Egypt the trad call'd Dodecafchcenus, on the eaft 
 fide, near a degree farther fouth, in which country Metacompfo feems to 
 have been, which was forty-four minutes fouth of Syene, and he feems to 
 put Pfelcis alfo in Egypt, oppofite to it ; for Egypt on the eaft fide pro- 
 bably extended about as far as where De Lifle's map makes the Nile to run 
 to the north, after it has taken its courfe a confiderable way to the eaft. 
 It is indeed probable that the Nile, as it runs to the eaft, and the moun- 
 tains there, were the moft antient bounds of Egypt, as they are at prefent 
 of the Grand Signor's dominions, about the caftle of Ibrahim; fo that 
 Egypt feems to have ended about Elephantine on the weft, tho' it extended 
 further to the fouth on the eaft fide '. 
 
 Returning 
 
 ■"'OmiBfi j| tb xvi *B>*!p*rrkiK «»« 'AiSi'mhs Sin, ' Above Syene, in the country called Dode- 
 ^ rns to j^io-iJ, to $1 riptw 'AiyuVhoi. Herodo- cafchcenus, Ptolemy mentions Hierafycaminos, 
 tus, 1. ii. c. 29. Phila:, and Metacompfo, oppofite to Pfelcis. 
 
 Hiera- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Returning to Aflbuan, I went afhoar under the rocks to the eaft, oppo- 
 fite to the fouth end of Elephantine. The rocks here are very high, on 
 which the antient Syerie was built ; on one of them I faw hieroglyphics 
 as reprefented at E. in the forty-eighth plate, and the middle figure as 
 fitting in a niche, and much defaced. The following account of fome 
 accidents that happen'd to me there, may give fome infight into the na- 
 ture of thefe people ; for by the greedinefs of thofe that went with me, 
 and by the imprudence of my people, I had like to have been embroil'd 
 with the Aga. I had not given exactly the fame prefent to an inferior 
 officer, the brother-in-law of the Aga, that 1 had given to the Aga's bro- 
 ther, who was in a greater poft ; and coming afterwards to demand the 
 lame prefent I had given to the other, I complied in part with his requeft. 
 On this my fervant talk'd to a favourite janizary of the Aga's he had ap- 
 pointed to be with me, as if he was a fpy, and had inform'd what pre- 
 fents I had made. This difgufted the Aga, as well as my taking a perfon 
 with me that did not belong to him ; fo the Aga fent for my fervant, and 
 told him I might ftay as long as I pleafed, but that I fhould fee nothing 
 more. I found alfo that he was not fatisfied with the prefent I made 
 him ; for afterwards the uncle of the Aga, a good old man, came to 
 me, and intimated that thofe that came there muft be liberal, that I 
 fhould fee every thing, but that it mud be in the company of the Aga's 
 relations. The Turk I mention'd before, came after this happen'd to fee 
 me, who I found was fo difagreeable to the Aga, that he order'd him to 
 leave the houfe, giving it this turn, that he would not permit the people 
 to come and teize me for prefents. I took it in the light they would have 
 it, and defired the favour of the Aga to come and drink coffee with me, 
 which he accordingly did, and the whole affair feem'd to be made up ; 
 and yet notwithftanding, the next morning, when I was to go abroad, the 
 Aga fent to my man, and told him the prefent I had made was fmall, 
 that I ought to have given him a piece of cloth, and that if I had none, 
 two fequins, worth about a guinea, muft be brought to him, otherwife I 
 fhould fee no more ; fo I fent him what he demanded, and then I was at 
 liberty to do what 1 pleafed. From Aflbuan I rid to Phik, palling near 
 the quarries, and going along the road that feems to have been made level 
 by art between little hills and rocks of red granite : Some of them are 
 
 Hierafycaminos, I apprehend, fhould be put laft, It is probable that the two or three ruins that 
 
 as it is in the itinerary, and may be Derra, derived have been found above Philse, may one of them 
 
 from Hiera. On the weft fide the itinerary has be of Pfelcis, a place perhaps of more confe- 
 
 the places in this order. quence than the others, being mention'd by both 
 
 Contra Suenem authors another might be the ruins of Meta- 
 
 Parembolem xvi. compfo, the only place except Pfelcis and Hiera- 
 
 fxnzi ii. fycaminos, that Ptolemy mentions ; tho' the itine- 
 
 Taphis x j v# rary has many other places, and poflibly Meta- 
 
 Talmis • viii. compfo may have another name in the itinerary ; 
 
 Tutzis . XX. f°r as Ptolemy fpeaks of it, we may fuppofe that 
 
 Pfelcim « ■ xii. 11 was a confiderable town. See Strabo, 1. xvii. 
 
 Corte iv. P- 8 '9- 
 
 Hierafycaminon iv. 1 Strabo fays that the road was through a very 
 
 _ , ..... , , . , plain country, Si iu.axi s<piSe* vsSix, tho' a rough- 
 On the eaft fide it has the places in this manner. e r face of things can hardly be imagined ; how- 
 Contra Pielcim xi. ever his words may be favourably interpreted, if 
 Contra Talmis xxiv. the text be corrected by making it utin, an even 
 Contra Taphis x. ground relating only to the road. 
 
 Philas 
 Syenem . 
 
 in 
 
120 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 in the manner Strabo defcribes ; a rock ftanding up like a pillar, and a 
 large rock on it, hieroglyphics being cut on fome of them. The outfide 
 of the granite is turned blackifh, which occafion'd Strabo to fpeak of them 
 as black {tones ; tho' it is much he fhould not mention the granite quar- 
 ries, out of which the obelilks were doubtlefs cut, that were carried to 
 Rome, as fuch extraordinary mafter-pieces of art, and at fo great an 
 expence. The road we went in is divided into two parts, by a mound 
 along the middle of it. Going further on, I obferved the remains of a 
 thick wall of unburnt brick, ending at a hill north of the plain, oppofite 
 to Phils ; there being a watch tower of the fame materials fouth of it, on 
 a high rock of granite. This fence was probably made by the fouthern 
 people, to defend themfelves againft fome incurfions, it may be, of the 
 garrifon of Affouan ; for we cannot fuppofe it to be a work fo old as to 
 have been built either by the Ethiopians, or as a defence againft them, a- 
 bout the time that they made incurfions into the Thebaid, and attack'd 
 the garrifon of Phils and Elephantine, and overturn'd the ftatues of Csfar, 
 Phils. under the firft Roman governor iElius Gallus. The ifland of Phils is high 
 and very fmall *, not being above a quarter of a mile long, and half a 
 quarter broad ; it was look'd on to be rather nearer to the eaft fide, and was 
 inhabited both by Ethiopians ™ and Egyptians. The city indeed itfelf 
 feems to have been on the eaft fide, and that there were no other build- 
 ings on the ifland, but what related to the temple ; for Diodorus - feems 
 to fay that no perfon but the priefts went on the ifland, by reafon that 
 it was efteem'd very facred, from an opinion that Ofiris was buried there; 
 fo that in the Thebaid there could not be a more folemn oath than to 
 fwear by the relicks of Ofiris depofited in this ifland. This Deity we 
 may fuppofe was worfhipped here under the fhape of the Ethiopian hawk. 
 The whole ifland feems to have been wall'd round, fomething in the man- 
 ner of a modern fortification ; great part of the wall ftill remains, and 
 tho' I was much hurried, yet I had reafon (from what I obferved) to repre- 
 fent it as may be feen with the plan of the temple in the forty-ninth plate 
 at C. and to conclude that there was a grand entrance at the north end. 
 The particular fort of Ethiopian hawk worfhipped here, I faw cut among 
 the hieroglyphics in fevcral parts; it is reprefented with a long neck, the 
 wings fpreading very wide, and a ferpent coming out from it, fomething 
 refembling the winged globe. It is probable this bird was kept in the 
 middle room A. where there is a fmall cell B. which was probably made 
 for it, being about three feet high. The temple is near the water, on the 
 weft fide of the ifland ; 'tis built all of freeftone. The pillars on each 
 lide of the court D. are of the order that may be feen in the plate of ca- 
 pitals under Phils, having over it the head of Ifis every way, as are the 
 fix laft pillars on each fide of the grand area; the others, efpecially thofe 
 in the long area, have a great variety of capitals. That court feems to 
 have been an addition to the temple, for the pillars on the weft fide are 
 not finifh'd ,• and whether it were by accident, or on account of the fhape 
 of the ifland, it is not built in a line with the other, and in the court D. 
 before it, the rooms to the weft feem to have been made to deceive the eye, 
 
 * PhiJae inliila eft afpera et undique prsenipta. o-up6<w'v«, tuiyfc jt«7oiiti'«v Ai'ShoVwv S\ hlyvjpnm 
 Seneca, Quafl. Nat. iv. c. 2. y,ati^^ats^-> Strabo, 1. xvii. p. 8 18. 
 
 m TS }\ K«7«p7«'«7ss pwgov E?retvw i»s ttveu n Diodorus, I. i. p. 19. 
 
 that 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 that this great irregularity might not be perceived. There are very large 
 colofial figures cut on the fouth fide of the great pyramidal gateway. At 
 the entrance to the eaft, which is near it, there is an obelifk E. on eacli 
 fide within; they are of red granite, about two feet fquare. A little 
 more to the weft is a lyon on each fide F. as I find I took them to be, tho\ 
 if the heads were broke off, they poflibly might have been fphinxes. Be- 
 tween the weft fide of the grand area and the water, there is only a nar- 
 row terrace with doors to it from the portico, the whole ending at the wa- 
 ter to the fouth, with a parapet wall, at which the two obelifls G. about 
 two feet and a half fquare, are railed on their pedeftals, as well as two 
 fquare pillars at the end of the colonnade. The ifland is there twenty or 
 thirty feet high above the water, and there being a profpecf about a mile 
 fouth to the high granite hills, where the Nile having made a turn, the 
 view is terminated by thofe hills in a moft agreeable romantic manner, all 
 together making a noble and beautiful appearance that is very extraordinary. 
 To the eaft of the great temple at H. is a beautiful oblong fquare temple, 
 ■which is reprefented in a larger fcale in the fiftieth plate; it is open all 
 round, as may be feen in the front at D. The capitals of the pillars may 
 be reckon'd amongft the moft beautiful in Egypt, and probably were of 
 the laft invention, as they are reprefented in the plate of capitals under the 
 .other title of Phils, being the only capitals of that kind I faw in Egypt. 
 Strabo ° mentions that they crofted over to the iftand on a float made of 
 rods, like a fort of bafket work, which I take to have been much the fame 
 fort as they ufe now, made of palm boughs tied together, with the fhells of 
 pumkins under them to bear them up ; on which they go down the river, 
 and when they return home, carry them on their backs, which are repre- 
 fented in the eighth plate. At A. the man is fitting on one of them, and 
 at B. a perfon is carrying one on his back. 
 
 Returning I took a view of fome extraordinary high rocks of granite, 
 in a regular figure, as reprefented at B. in the fiftieth plate; on them are 
 cut hieroglyphical inferiptions and figures of men, and they direcfly face the 
 north end of the ifle. In our return we went to fee the famous catarads of Catarafis, 
 the Nile ; the hills lock in, and fhut up the view of the Nile to the north of 
 Phils. Returning about half a mile in the way we came, we went out of 
 it to the weft, and going about a mile, we came to the Nile at the port of 
 the boats that come from Ethiopia, where we faw moft of the people 
 black. Here is no village, only fome little hutts made of mats and reeds. 
 At this place they unload their goods, which are carried by land to Af- 
 fouan, and fo they bring the goods by land to this place, that are brought 
 up to Aftbuan from lower Egypt. The chief import here is dates, which 
 the people of Aftbuan buy both for their own ufe, and alfo to fend into 
 the lower parts of Egypt ; fo that on the one fide and the other, the Egyp- 
 tian and Ethiopian navigation end at the catarad *. I never faw a more 
 rough face of nature than at this place ; on the eaft fide it is all rock, on 
 the weft the hills are either fandy or of black rocks : Above to the fouth 
 there feems to be a high rocky ifland, and higher up rocky clifts on each 
 fide, and below to the north there are fo many rocks, that little of the wa- 
 
 ° Ai<£v$> 3 sir t- new S^n &d-A!a>v&, a 3 5sr«x7wu * Navigacionis j*EgyptiaC£ finis. Plinius 1. v. 
 c-xulaAi'Jwv ^siTi^yaq £5-1 intKtpj'ev, wr' fejulvaw 2^g- c. 9. 
 
 irAou'i?. Strabo ibid. 
 
 Vol. I. I i ter 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ter is feen. We went on to the north, the Nile running through the rocks. 
 The people knew I came to fee the cataract, and flood ftill ; I afk'd them 
 when we fhould come to the cataract, and to my great furprize, they told 
 me, that was the cataract'. The rocks of granite crofs the bed of the 
 Nile; and in three different places, at fome diftance from one another, di- 
 vide the ftream into three parts, making three falls at each of them. The 
 firft we came to was the leaft of all, I thought the falls were not above 
 three feet. The fecond, a little lower, winds round a large rock or ifland, 
 which to the north may be about twelve feet high, and they fay at high 
 Nile the water runs over this rock ; but fuppofing the Nile to be then five 
 feet higher below the rock, the fall may be about feven or eight feet; to 
 the eaft and weft of it runs a ftream. To the weft are other rocks, and a- 
 gain to the weft of that there was a third ftream, but at high Nile thefe 
 two ftreams unite. This feems to be the cataract defcribed by Strabo, which, 
 he fays, is a rocky height in the middle of the river; the upper part of it 
 is fmooth, fo as that the water could run on it, but ended in a precipice, 
 down which the water fell; it had a channel, he fays, on each fide, by 
 which boats could fail, that is, as we muft fuppofe, at high Nile, when 
 the two weftern branches might be united. Sailing over this rock they come 
 to the very fall of the cataract, and the water carried them down the pre- 
 cipice with fafety. Going fomewhat lower to the place where the road 
 to Afibuan turns off from the river to the north eaft, I oblerved a third 
 cataract, the fall of which appear'd to me to be greater than the others, 
 and I judged the middle fall to be about five feet. As to the catadupes, 
 thofe high cataracts that fell with fuch a noife that they made the inha- 
 bitants deaf, I take all thofe accounts to be fabulous i. There is another 
 cataract at lbrim, which they call twelve days journey from this place; 
 fome fay alfo that there is a third cataract; and others, that there are 
 feven mountains and feven cataracts. 
 
 Here I faw the corn in ear in January, and the coloquintida full grown, 
 and the little apple call'd Nabok, near ripe, which in Delta was ripe in 
 November ; and I fuppofe that in the lower parts of Egypt, the time of 
 growth for fuch fruit, is after the overflow of the Nile, but that here it 
 is after the great heats are paft, which muft hinder the growth. I faw 
 them driving the camels loaded with fenna, and they told me that a 
 camel's load coft about two hundred medins, that is about twelve fhillings 
 and fix pence. The Pafha grants a licence to one perfon, generally a Jew, 
 to buy all the fenna, who is obliged to take all that is brought to Cairo, 
 and no one elfe can purchafe it; one Englifh merchant only has the pri- 
 vilege of buying it of him ; and fo the price is very confiderably raifed. 
 
 When I returned to A.ffouan, the relations of the foldier I had brought 
 with me from the Sheik of Furfhout, fent me a fupper ready drefs'd, 
 which is a piece of civility and refpect ; but what is chiefly intended, is 
 to get a prefent in return, of greater value : And the laft evening the Aga 
 
 p MlKf fa J'uVsf 1? 'EAep«w?iW h't» o /*ik£oV xuraf- icu o-uv aJur? «VaSe7f. Strabo Vll. p. 8 1 7. 
 
 paxljjc, pUov t 7ro1«f*ov s^wcftj! i-Jf 6®£v(, q Ubi Nilus ad ilia qua; catadupa nominantur, 
 
 ;?nV< J©- fjjo <Z ra 5i,, u;t SiyfAcu t si7aptV ti\i j«V« priecipitat ex altiffimis montibus, ea gens, qua; 
 
 J' as x^^vov, k«9" * KctUftnywlix* ii 2 tualt^u- ilium locum accolit, propter magnitudinem foni- 
 
 Sev j argj? T £ p'h^ok, f*«Ai?« it, avairhav tus fenfu audiendi caret. M. T. Cicero. Jomn. 
 
 5m t KwTiip'f'axV, Scipionis, c. 5. 
 
 Kj ludSvlau pilot 1? irx«!pf;j cBri T xftj^wi'oV, ^ ffugav- 
 
 fent 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 fent me likewife a fupper of pilaw, a foup of barley with the husks taken 
 off, like rice, and goats flefh. boil'd and well pepper'd, and hot bread; 
 and defir'd that what was left might be given to the boatmen, and not 
 to his people ; but his own dependants came, notwithftanding. The next 
 day, the twenty-fixth of January, 1 had all my goods put on board, and 
 took leave of the Aga, fome of his relations attending me to the boat. 
 The wind riling, we could not begin our voyage, fo I paffed the day in 
 my boat, feveral people coming to fee me, moft of them begging fome- 
 thing or other of me. A genteel man, brother of the Caimacam of 
 Girge, came to fee me, whom I had feen at the Aga's ; for 1 was in a 
 country where I thought I met with a friend, if I could fee a Turk, or 
 one of the middle parts of Egypt; he feem'd to be a good fort of man, 
 and faid if I had come to him at firft, I fbould not have been ufed in 
 that manner, and he would have fent a man with me that would have 
 fhew'd me all, though I knew he had it not in his power to proteft me, 
 being only a fort of a collector of the cuftoms here, and probably his 
 chief intention was to fee if I would make him a prefent. The Chri- 
 ftian fecretary of the Caimacam put into my hands, with a letter, a fum 
 of money to the value of three or four pounds, a great fum in that 
 country, and for fuch a man, to be deliver'd as he directed in Akmim ; 
 a truft he would hardly have repofed in one of his own people that were 
 going to Cairo; and I was a perfon going out of the country, whom he 
 would certainly never fee more; he prefented me at the fame time with 
 a live fheep, and I made him a prefent in return. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 From the Cataracts down to Grand Cairo and Da- 
 mi a T A. 
 
 /"\N the twenty feventh of January we left Affouan, with a very cold 
 wind that was not favourable, and were obliged to lie by for 
 fome time on the eaft, about a league below the town. They have in all 
 thefe parts a great fcarcity of fuel; fo that they commonly ufe either 
 the reeds of Indian wheat, or cow dung! dried, the latter is the fuel in 
 general of the poor people of Egypt ; but the greateft fcarcity is in all the 
 country above Cous. We made very little way this day and the next. I 
 obferved they draw water here to their land with four buckets one over 
 another. On the thirtieth we paffed by Com-Ombo: I faw what they 
 call the wild goat, of a reddifh colour, and white behind, which I con- 
 jectured to be the antelope. We were obliged to flop by the wind ; but 
 in the evening we went a little lower, to be near the Cafhif, for greater 
 fecurity, who was flill in thefe parts. On the thirty-firft I took a view 
 of Hajar Silcily, and arrived at Etfou in the evening On the firft of 
 February I experienced the great honour and fidelity of the worthy Sheik 
 of that place. I obferved here that they draw water out of the river 
 with the Perfian wheel. On the fecond I came to the wall, which I 
 took to be the city of the Hawks. I went afhore to examine it, and found 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 a deep dry channel above it, fo that the wall feemed to have ferved for 
 two purpofes, to turn the water into the canal, and alfo for a quay for 
 the veffels to lie at, for there are remains of flairs down the fide of it; the 
 wall is fourteen feet wide, being built with four large ftones in breadth, 
 in ten tiers; about the middle of the upper fide it fets in eighteen 
 inches, and what remains of it is one hundred and fifty-three feet long ; 
 it is entire at the weft end, but the earth is wafh'd away from it ; the 
 eaft end is ruin'd, fo that it might have gone further out into the water. On 
 the weft fide a little lower are remains of a wall of no great extent, but 
 pretty high, appearing like the ruins of fome tower. We arrived at Efne in 
 the afternoon : I carried my letters to the two Sherifs, or relations of Maho- 
 met, faw the church and the temple near the town. On the third I went 
 to the temple three miles north of the town, and to the convent a mile 
 fouth of it. In the afternoon we purfued our voyage, and going all 
 night, were oppofite to Jebelin in the morning. The Sheik of Cous, who 
 had afforded me his protection on the eaft fide of Thebes, was encamped 
 near Selamia, and 1 faw a great cavalcade of his people to the eaft. We 
 went afhore at Erment, and viewed the antiquities there. On the fifth 
 we paffed Luxerein, and flopped at Gurnou, where we ftaid till the k- 
 venth in the evening, when we found it was time to leave fuch bad peo- 
 ple, and failing all night, we arrived at Kept. I ftaid here two days 
 to fee the antiquities, and to get medals and other pieces of antiquity, 
 which they brought to the boat. One of the Mahometans I had a letter 
 to, came to me the laft day, and would conduct me abroad to fee fome 
 things the other had not led me to, and returned with me to the boat, 
 and earneftly requefted me not to depart fo fuddenly, but to ftay till I had 
 heard further from him, and in fome time after he very kindly fent me a 
 pefent of a kid, and two balkets of bread. We arrived at Kena in the 
 night ; on the tenth I walked to that town, faw their manufacture of 
 earthen ware, and went on to Dendera, and from thence to Amara, and 
 faw the great antiquities of Tentyra. 
 
 On the eleventh we arrived at the port of Badjoura, and went to the 
 convent of Furfhout. I waited on the great Sheik, whom I found fitting 
 with the Mahometan prieft, and eating beans boyled in the fhells. I deli- 
 vered him my letter from the Sheik of Etfou ; he asked me, fmiling, whe- 
 ther the people attempted to detain us, and if they tore my book; and, 
 laughing, laid, they thought we were in fearch of treafures. I returned 
 to the boat ; we fail'd all night, and on the twelfth we arrived at Girge, 
 and went to the convent. The Bey was encamped to the fouth of the 
 city ; when I went firft to the camp, he was in town at the Harem with 
 the ladies, but he foon came on horfe-back, attended by about eight 
 flaves ; the mulick play'd in the camp on his arrival, for about a quarter of 
 an hour. I went to his magnificent tent ; he fat on the fopha in the corner 
 on the right hand as one enters ; was a perfon of a fine countenance with 
 a graceful fmile, but when he pleafed, could put on a ftern and majeftic 
 look, and I thought his manner moft like that of our great men in Eu- 
 rope of any I had feen in Turkey. I delivered him the letter I had from 
 Ofman Bey, and my fervant placed my prefent before him, about a dozen 
 boxes of French prunellas, and a fine covered glafs vafe for ilirbet Fie 
 received me very civily, dcfired me to fit, and ordered coffee. I requeft- 
 
ON EGYPT. 125 
 
 ed the favour of him to give me fome letters to the governors under him. 
 He asked where we had been, and fmiling, demanded if I had found any 
 treafures. I went to the fecretary's tent, where the letters were writ, and 
 brought them to the Bey to put his feal to them. 
 
 From Girge I went to El-Berbi, where, as mention'd before, there was 
 a temple, and I fuppofe this place to have been the antient Abydus. When 
 I returned to the boat, in order to depart, I was informed they had taken 
 away the oars, demanding a duty of about fifteen millings: I fent to the 
 governor about it, and found they had demanded three times as much 
 as their due. We came to Menfhieh, where the men would ftay all night 
 with their families. On the fourteenth in the morning we arrived at Ak- 
 mim, where I went to the convent, and waited on the Prince, who gave 
 me fome letters I wanted in the way to Cairo. On the fixteenth I went 
 to fee the convents I have defcribed to the eaft. I had agreed with the 
 boatmen fo far by the day, and here I made a new agreement, giving 
 them about five pounds to carry me to Cairo, and to flop where I pleas'd, 
 except that on the eaft fide we were to go afhore only where they fhould 
 think it fafe. All my friends attended me to the river, making me pre- 
 fents of fheep and bread, and I fet out for Cairo on the fixteenth. The 
 next day early in the morning we came to Raigny, where the religious 
 Sheik of the famous ferpent called Heredy, was at the fide of the river Serpent He- 
 to receive us; either feeing our boat, or having had an account of our redy ' 
 coming from Akmim. I carried the letter of the Prince of Akmim to 
 the Sheik of the village, who entertained us with a grand collation. He 
 went with us to the grotto of the ferpent that has been fo much talk'd 
 of, under the name of Sheik Heredy, of which I fhall give a particular 
 account, in order to fhew the folly, credulity and fuperftition of thefe 
 people, for the Chriftians have faith in it as well as the Turks. We went 
 afcending between the rocky mountains for about half a mile, and came 
 to a part where the valley opens wider. On the right is a mofque built 
 with a dome over it, againft the fide of the rock, like a Sheik's burial 
 place ; in it there is a large cleft in the rock, out of which they fay the 
 ferpent comes; there is a tomb in the mofque, in the Turkifh manner, 
 that they fay is the tomb of Heredy, which would make one imagine that 
 one of their faints of that name is buried here, and that they fuppofe his 
 foul may be in this ferpent ; for I obferved they went and kiffed the tomb 
 with much devotion, and faid their prayers at it. Oppofite to this cleft 
 is another, which they fay belongs to Oghli-HafTan, that is, Haffan the 
 fon of Heredy ; there are two other clefts, which they fay are inhabited 
 by faints or angels. The Sheik told me there were two of thefe ferpents, 
 but the common notion is that there is only one. He faid it has been 
 here ever fince the time of Mahomet ; the fhape of it is like other ferpents ; 
 the great ones appear of different fizes, from a foot to two feet long ; the 
 colour is of a mixture of yellow, red and black ; they may be handled 
 and do no harm. He comes out only during the four fummer months, and 
 it is faid that they facrifice to it; but the Sheik denied it, and affirmed 
 they only brought fheep, lambs and money to buy oil for the lamps,- but 
 I faw much blood and entrails of beafts lately kill'd before the door. 
 The ftories they tell are fo ridiculous that they ought not to be repeated, 
 if it were not to give an inftance of their idolatry, in thefe parts in this 
 Vol. I. K k refpea; 
 
126 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 refpefl ; though the Mahometan religion feems to be very far from it in 
 other things. They fay the virtue of this ferpent is to cure all difeafes of 
 thofe that go to it, or of fuch as have it brought to them, for they often 
 carry it to great people in a bag, to whom he is not always fhewn, pro- 
 bably pretending to carry him fometimes when they have him not. They 
 are alfo full of a ftory that when a number of women go there once a 
 year, he paffes by and looks on them, and goes and twines about the 
 neck of the moft beautiful, which muff, be a certain fign of extraordi- 
 nary qualities, with thofe who have formed to themfelves the idea of a 
 Mahometan paradife. They have alfo a ftory that a Prince came to fee 
 the ferpent, but at firft refuting to fhew him, when they afterwards pro- 
 due'd him, the Prince caufed him to be cut in pieces, and being put under 
 a vefTel, the ferpent immediately became entire again ; but it is faid that a 
 Chriftian, who was defirous to have expos'd the fraud, offer'd a confider- 
 able fum to be permitted to cut it to pieces, but could not be allowed to 
 try the experiment: They add alfo, that it cannot be carried beyond Girge 
 or Meloui, and if they attempt to go further it difappears. Endeavour- 
 ing as much as I could to lift into the bottom of this affair, I was fur- 
 priz'd to hear a very grave and fenfible Chriftian fay, that he always cured 
 any diftempers, but that worfe commonly follow'd on it; and fome Chri- 
 ftians who pretend to have more learning than others, and really believe 
 that he works miracles, fay they believe it is the Devil mention a in To- 
 bit, that the angel Gabriel drove into the utmoft parts of Egypt. It is 
 probable that they have fome ferpents here they have bred tame, and it 
 feems to be fome remains of the heathen worfhip of thofe harmlefs fer- 
 pents mention'd by Herodotus, that were efteemed facred to Jupiter, and 
 when they found them dead, they buried them in the temple of Jupiter 
 at Thebes '. I went on and came to Gaua-Kiebir, where I went afhore. 
 The Sheik, to whom I had a letter, was not at home, but his brother fent 
 one with me to view the temple a fecond time. The wind not being fa- 
 vourable, we ftaid at this place ; it rain'd in the night, and began to rain 
 again after it was day, on the eighteenth ; but it clear'd up. We purfu'd 
 our voyage, and ftopp'd early at Sciout; and it rain'd again in the evening. 
 Here we met with fome Turkifh merchants with black llaves, which they 
 buy up towards Ethiopia, and bring them down into the upper parts of 
 Egypt, where they are prepared for the feraglios, under which operation 
 they fometimes die. On the nineteenth I went to Sciout, and took a 
 view of the town. On the twentieth we came to Manfalouth, where I 
 deliver'd a letter I had to a Chriftian of that place, but as there was no- 
 thing to fee there, fo we went on and came to Meloui. I waited on the 
 Sardar with a prefent of Englifh cutlery ware and fome other things, and 
 he was very obliging, and faid, if he could he would go along with me 
 himfelf to fee the temple of Archemounain, to have half the treafures I 
 found, or he would fend his fecretary. The next day I went to the town, 
 and the cavalcade of the Sardar was going out towards Archemounain 
 
 r Et'cr) 3 me/ ®*&ct<; fgo) t$m, avfyuxw xSc&pa. <V tioned as fmal] and harmlefs, and as having horns. 
 
 A^ov«, ti pgya&si' to'ita pjaao), <Mo k^ £ « cpofsyin sr£- The horn'd viper is very common in Egypt, 
 
 IpvxaTa e| «jtg«r £ x£(p«Awr tsV «7riiS«voy7«f Sdnltiffi but I fuppofe is noxious ; the horns are fome- 
 
 h rw ts AioV Txrts yu.^ atyas StS tfwl mcu 1'giff. thing like the horns of a fnail, but are of a hard 
 
 Herodotus ii. c. 74. fubftance a I have one of them preferv'd in fpi- 
 
 It is to be obferved, that thefe ferpents are men- rits. 
 
 with 
 
ON EGYPT. i2 7 
 
 with the Caia, attended by a great number of people with kettle drums 
 and other mufic, and I follow'd on a very indifferent afs; and when they 
 paffed through any village, the mufic play'd. The fecretary was fent with 
 me to view the temple. I return'd to the Caia, whofe carpet and cufhions 
 were laid on a height, on which he fat with the ftandard by him, that 
 is carried before him when they go out in this manner. I fat down with 
 him, and coffee was brought ; the Sardar himfelf came after, as incognito. 
 1 return'd to my boat, and on the twenty-fourth we went forward, and 
 came to Minio about night, where the men were obliged to pay twenty 
 medins, which is about a milling, for the boat. On the twenty-fifth we 
 paffed by Samalut, and after by Galofana on the weft, where I faw in 
 the water two rows of hewn ftone about twenty feet in length, as if it were 
 the remains of an old wall. We approached two villages, Sheik-Faddle on 
 the eaft, and Benimfar on the weft. Thefe two villages had a difpute a- 
 bout an ifland that was between them. It is faid on applying to a great Battle on the 
 Bey their landlord, who was not willing to difoblige either of them, he le ' 
 bid them fight it out. This happen'd to be the important decifive day 
 between thefe two villages. We heard guns fire, and after that a noife and 
 fhouting as for victory, and faw many people ftanding on the weft fide. 
 Soon after we perceived people throwing themfelves into the water from 
 many parts of the ifland, and fwimming to the eaft, others following them 
 to the water, firing at them or pelting them with ftones. We faw plainly 
 we were in the midft of a battle, and it was too late to retire. However, 
 we prepared our arms to defend ourfelves in cafe we fhould be attack'd. 
 As we obferved that the chief fire was from the eaftern fide, the battle 
 being on the weft, where they were engaged, we were determined to go 
 on the eaft under the cover of their fire. We faw great numbers fwim- 
 ming over to the eaft, with their clothes and pikes in their hands ; one of 
 them laid hold of our boat, and came in to reft himfelf, fo that we were 
 afraid the people on the weft fide might fire on us, as protecting their 
 enemies ; for the weftern people had gain'd the victory, and mod of them 
 were retired from the ifland, and difplay'd their ftandard on the other fide. 
 We faw the women on the eaft coming to the fide of the river, to fee if 
 they could fpy out their hufbands, clapping their hands and beating their 
 breafts. The village of Sheik-Faddle on the eaft had manned a boat, put it 
 out into the river, and were firing on the other fide, and the fire was return'd 
 on them. Paffing by this boat, we were in great danger. When we were 
 below the village, we judged we were fafe, and I got out to fee what paf- 
 fed, and in a very fhort time I perceived a ball fell into the water, only 
 three or four yards from the boat, which without doubt they fired at us. 
 Thus I faw this battle, which perhaps may not be much inferior to fome of 
 the little engagements of the Greeks, defcribed by Thucidydes with fo 
 much pomp and eloquence. 
 
 We paffed by Sharony on the eaft ; to the fouth of it is a fmall hill, on 
 which there appear'd to have been buildings, and there are many ftones on 
 the bank of the river, which feem to be the ruins of a thick wall of a 
 quay, which together with the likenefs of the name, made me imagine 
 that either Ptolemy is miftaken in placing Oxyrinchus on the weft, or that 
 this city which from Ptolemy I place about Abougirge, might in latter ages 
 be neglected and fuffer'd to run to ruin, and that a new city might be 
 
 built 
 
 i 
 
128 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 built on the eaft fide, and take its name. On the twenty-fixth I went a- 
 fhoar at Benefuief, and we after paffed by Eouche, which I fuppofe to be 
 Ptolemais, the port of Arfinoe. To this place they ufually come to go to 
 Convents of the monafteries of St. Anthony and St. Paul, in the deferts near the Red 
 SdlltJPauI f ea j tne latter being the founder of the hermit's life, and the former of 
 in the defcrt. t ] le monaftic life in fociety ; they were cotemporaries. St. Anthony the 
 abbot founded a monaftery in this place; and at the convent of St. Paul, a 
 fmall day's journey to the north, they now live in the monaftic way, tho' 
 formerly they were hermits. Some fay they lived in the time of the Em- 
 peror Philip, others of Decius, who perfecuted the Chriftians; and it is faid 
 St. Anthony lived till the time of Conftantine. A view of thefe convents 
 may be feen in the fifty-firft plate, as I found them in a manufcript map 
 of the country about them. The convent of St. Antony A. is a large en- 
 clofure, the entrance to it is by a window, as at mount Sinai ; they have 
 a great number of palm, olive, and other trees within it. I met a monk 
 of this convent at Faiume, who gave me fome account of it. The pa- 
 triarch is head of the convent of St. Antony : I know not whether it is 
 always fo, or that the patriarch being chofe from thence, might have pre- 
 fided over this convent, and continue to do fo ; he has a deputy there. 
 There are three other perfons who have a fhare in the government of the 
 convent, four more that are priefts, and twenty-three that are lay monks «. 
 From the references * below to the view cf the convent, it may be feen 
 that they have every thing within themfelves, and particularly a tower for 
 a ftorehoufe, defended by a draw- bridge, in cafe the Arabs fhould any 
 way break in upon them. They have three fprings of water running into the 
 convent, that are a little fait. And it is probable that in thefe convents are 
 the only bells in all Egypt. 
 
 At the convent of St. Paul B. there are twenty-five monks in all ; they 
 cannot marry, but widowers may be admitted. A woman is not permit- 
 ted to enter the convent. They are not allow'd fo much as to fmoke in the 
 convent, nor to eat meat, but the good monks think they do not break 
 through their rule if they do both without the convent, which is what they 
 commonly practice; but their ufual diet is olives, cheefe, that they bring 
 from Faiume, and fait fifh, with which they are fupplied from the Red 
 lea, which is about feven miles from thefe convents. It is indeed faid that 
 they eat but once a day, except on faturdays and fundays. Thofe who go 
 to thefe mountains will do well to enquire if there is a very thick high 
 wall in thefe parts, faid to be twenty-four feet wide at the bottom, and 
 to examine all particulars about it, and of what extent it is The per- 
 fon who made the fketch of the country about thefe convents in one thou- 
 fand feven hundred and fixteen, from which I have taken what relates to 
 
 * In the view of the convent of St. Anthony, garden. O. The caroubi-trees. P. The olive- 
 
 the places are thus markM. yard. Cv_ Three fotirces of water. 
 
 A. The church of St. Peter and St. Paul. B. In the convent of St. Paul A. is the church and 
 
 the church of St. Anthony. C. The belfry, with grot of St. Paul. B. The bell. C. A tower, 
 
 a fmall bell in it. D. The tower where they keep D. The window by which they enter. E. The 
 
 their books and provifions. E. The draw-bridge cells of the monks. F. The mill. G. The gar- 
 
 to it. F. The window by which they enter the den. H. A fpring of water that is a little fait, 
 convent. G. The cells of the monks. H. The s The deputy they call Rubeti, the three next 
 
 mill. I. The great garden. K. The chapel of Gumous, the priefts Kefhiefh, and the others 
 
 St. Mark, the difciple of St. Anthony. L. The Ruban. 
 
 vineyard. M. Palm-groves. N. The apricot ' See Mallet's defcription of Egypt, p. 32 1. 
 
 the 
 
ON EGYPT. 129 
 
 the modern geography in that part, obferved on the firft of June, and the 
 fecond day of the moon, that the tide went out there at the Red fea from 
 twelve at night to fix in the morning, one hundred and ten paces. He 
 obferves alfo that there is water in the feveral torrents only in the middle of 
 the winter. 
 
 On the twenty-feventh of February in the evening, one thoufand feven Arrival a: 
 hundred and thirty-feven, I arrived at old Cairo, and went to Cairo to 
 the conful's houfe, having perform'd this journey up above the catarafts 
 and back again, with the greateft good fortune, exadtly in three months. 
 
 As the convent of Mount Sinai was not at peace with the Arabs, and it 
 was impoflible to go there on that account, I determined to be at Jerufalem 
 at Eafter, to fee Paleftine, Syria, and Cyprus, and to return into Egypt 
 to make that journey and fome others I propofed; fo flaying only three 
 days in Cairo, on the third of March I got into a boat for Damiata, in or- Departure 
 der to embark for Joppa, not failing till early the next morning. A mer- [ cn £ HU& " 
 chant of black flaves had a number of them in one part of the boat, and 
 I faw a young woman among them, that had feven holes bored in her 
 nofe for rings, one in the middle, and three on each fide. The firft day 
 we made about a quarter of the voyage, and flopped at Mifelcafer. On 
 the fifth we failed by Benalhafiar, which I fuppofe to be Bubaftus and 
 Phibefeth of the fcripture. In the evening we were about half way. On 
 the fixth we lay by part of the day near Aboufir, the wind not being favou- 
 rable. We went on and anchor'd at night out in the river, as I fuppofe 
 they apprehended fome danger; and hearing a gun fire, the people of the 
 boat fhot off their pieces two or three times. On the feventh we palled 
 by Mahalla, Manfoura, and Dioft. This latter is on the weft, and about 
 four hours weft of it, is the convent of St. Geminiani, where there is 
 yearly a great refort of Chriftians for devotion, and much talk of fome- 
 thing like fpirits, which, as far as I could find, is nothing but the fhadow 
 of the people palling, feen in a room by a fmall hole. The next day I 
 arrived at Damiata, and went with letters I had to a perfon there. I was 
 fo difguifed with my drefs and beard, that he would hardly believe I was 
 an Englifhman. I was very handfomely entertain'd accidentally by fome 
 Greek merchants to whom I was not recommended, with all forts of fhell- 
 fifh, and roes of fifh ; for in lent they are not allow'd to eat any other, 
 and only the roes of fifli that have blood in them. In the evening I went 
 down to the port at the mouth of the river. A French fhip was hired to 
 carry the pilgrims, who paid about a guinea a head to the merchant for 
 their paffage. Moft of the pilgrims met on the narrow fandy point on the 
 weft fide of the mouth of the river. To the weft is a bay about two 
 leagues over; and on the weft head, a large Turkifh fhip of Alexandria 
 was loft in November laft, with feven hundred people in her, the captain 
 only being faved : The Bey, who had carried the Grand Signor's tribute out 
 of Egypt, was on board, and came to land alive, but foon after died, as it 
 is faid of the fright. In the evening we return'd up to the port, and 
 pafled the night in the boat, and on the tenth went on board the fhip with 
 the other pilgrims, and fail'd for Joppa. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 A DES-CRIP- 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 O F 
 
 The EAST, &c. 
 
 BOOK m 
 
 From Grand Cairo by the Red Sea, 
 into Arabia Petraea, to Mount 
 Sinai, and back to Cairo, Rosetto, 
 and Alexandria. 
 
 chap. I. 
 
 From Grand Cairo to Suez, and the Red Sea. 
 
 HAVING feen Paleftine, Syria, part of Mefopotomia, and Cilicia, 
 and the ifland of Cyprus, I landed again in Egypt on the twenty- 
 fifth of December, one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-eight. 
 I faw at Cairo the grand proceffion of the caravan to Mecca, and of the 
 hafna or treafure, that is, the Grand Signor's rents, which are yearly fent to 
 Conftantinople. I alfo made the journies to Faiume, the labyrinth, the 
 pyramids of Saccara and Dafhour, and the catacombs of Saccara, and 
 went twice to the pyramids of Gize, near Cairo, which are commonly 
 feen by travellers ; and prepared for my journey to Mount Sinai, which is 
 to be look'd on as the moft difficult of all the eaftern voyages, 
 journey to The monks of the convent had made peace with the Arabs ; the occa- 
 oun urn o £ ^ breach between them was a murder they had committed on 
 a monk of the convent. The method that is taken to make this jour- 
 ney, is to agree with the monks of Mount Sinai, who have a convent 
 at Cairo, to furnifh fo many camels, giving about four pounds for 
 each ; they take care alfo to procure the common provifions for the road ; 
 and it is the cuftom to lie at their convent the night before the departure. 
 On the twenty-feventh of March I went to the place from which the 
 
 caravan 
 
ON EGYPT. i 3 t 
 
 caravan was to fct out, but found they would not depart that day ; fo I 
 return'd to the conful's, and the next day in the evening I went out 
 to Keyd Bey, to a large yard where all the camels were together, that 
 were to make up the caravan. In this open yard we lay; the caravan con- 
 fifted of about two hundred camels laden with corn, going to Muellah 
 to the eaft of the Red Sea, to meet the caravan coming from Mecca; 
 the Bey that always goes out to meet the Emir Hadge being gone before 
 to Adjeroute. My bed was laid on my camel, a bag of proviiions on one 
 fide, a skin of water on the other, and a wooden bottle of water to flake 
 the thirft in this hot climate. We afcended the mountain call'd Jebel- 
 Macatlium, and went eaft along the fandy hills. I obferved in the road 
 many ftones that look'd like petrified wood, being very numerous in fome 
 parts ; if this is really petrified wood, as this place feems never to have 
 been capable of producing trees, I do not know whether it may be look'd 
 on as a probable conjecture, that the people travelling in thefe parts, and 
 carrying fome wood with them for their ufe, might leave it behind when 
 they approach'd towards the great city, and that having been covered with 
 fand, it might petrify, and the fand be afterwards blown away ; though 
 indeed I faw one piece that feem'd to have been a large body of a tree. 
 We came to fome uneven ground; and all of a fudden the caravan was 
 alarm'd, by feeing four men at a diftance riding fwiftly towards them 
 from the fouth. All the people allighted from their camels and took their 
 arms, and went towards them to meet them, on which all but one of 
 them retired, who coming on, they went in a body towards him, and as 
 he perceived he was like to meet with a warm reception, he thought fit 
 to withdraw. The long ftep of the camel caufes a very great motion in 
 the riders, which to fome is very difagreeable ; they commonly lie down 
 to be mounted, but when any one difmounts on the road, the way of 
 getting up is on the back of the Arab, who ftoops down, and fo they 
 climb up the neck of the camel. The pace they go is not above two miles 
 and a half an hour. We lay in the open air, as they always do in this 
 journey; having travell'd thirteen hours without flopping. As foon as the 
 caravan halts, if it is not dark, they let the camels browfe a while on the 
 little fluubs, and the people go about and gather the wood of them for 
 fuel; they then make the camels lie down, bind one of their legs to 
 hinder them from getting up, and commonly tie them together with a 
 fmall rope, to prevent any of them from going away without difturbing 
 the others, and making a noife ; fo they place their goods in the middle be- 
 tween themfelves and their camels. They feed thefe ufeful beafts with balls 
 they make up of barley meal, which they put into their mouths. In thefe 
 parts, where it is not very wholefome to lie abroad, ftrangers eipecially take 
 care to be well cover'd, by a carpet laid over the head for though I carry 'd 
 a tent, it was not proper commonly to make ufe of it, for fear of paffing 
 for a confiderable perfon, that might be worth plundering. On the thir- 
 tieth we fet out an hour before day, and in about eleven hours we came 
 to a narrow valley called Tearofaid, between very low hills. In about an 
 hour and a half we came to a narrower valley, with a high ground on 
 each fide; this is called Haraminteleh, and there feem to be ruins of a 
 wall built acrofs, to defend the pafs. After I left the place, I thought 
 poflibly the canal might pafs this way, and that this wall might be the 
 
 remains 
 
 2 
 
j 3 z OBSERVATIONS 
 
 remains of the buildings of one of the flood gates, which any one who 
 goes in that road may take more particular notice of, to fee if they can 
 trace the canal that way. I faw no fort of hearts in the defert till I came 
 to this place, where I obferved fome birds; and in the defert I had feen 
 feveral holes, which they faid were made by an animal called Jerdaon, and 
 I could not be certainly informed, whether or no it was what the Euro- 
 peans call the Pharaoh's rat, and is thought to be the Ichneumon. All the 
 defert is gravelly, having in fome parts fhrubs and aromatic herbs. We 
 after came into the open plain, and faw Adjeroute, at which place we lay, 
 having travell'd fixteen hours without flopping, and the alternoon was 
 fo very hot, that my leg, that was expos'd to the fouth, blifter'd, being 
 uncovered, according to the fafhion among the common people, wlio'fe 
 drefs I always imitated, but I was after obliged to defend myfell better 
 againft the heat. 
 
 Adjeroute. Adjeroute is only a fquare caftle with a garrifon of foldiers in it; this 
 
 Heroopoiis. as j {fail bf e rve, has been fuppofed to be the antient Heroopolis; it is 
 diftant from Cairo four hundred and eighty deraies (as the Arabs call them 
 in their journey to Mecca, fifteen of them making an hour) which is thirty- 
 two hours, but according to my computation it is only twenty-nine hours; 
 the three hours difference may be in the road the caravan takes farther 
 round, being much about the diftance that the lake of the Pilgrims is 
 from Cairo, where they encamp and begin their journey. On the thirty- 
 firft we fet out before fun rife, the great caravan taking the road to the 
 fouth weft to Mecca, which is called the eaftern road (Derb-el-Charke) 
 we went on fouth towards Suez, in a fort of a hollow ground, in which, 
 as I fhall obferve, the fea formerly might come, having firft a rifing ground 
 to the eaft. In about two hours and a half we came to the well of Suez 
 (Bir-el-Suez) where their is a cane ; it is a fine large well, in which the wa- 
 ter was drawn by a wheel, but not being kept in repair, the men draw it 
 up with ropes; it is fo fait that it is not fit to drink. About two miles 
 
 Suei. further to the fouth is Suez, at the north end of the Red Sea. This fea 
 makes two golphs to the north, divided by that point of land which feems 
 to have had the general name of the defert of Pharan, from a place of that 
 name towards the fouth of it; that to the eaft was called the Elanitic 
 golph from Elana, at the north end of it, as the weftern was called the 
 Heroopolitic golph from Heroopolis. 1 fuppofe Suez to be the antient 
 
 Arfmoe. Arfinoe, by which Strabo ° fays the canal run into the Red Sea, fo that it 
 muft have been at the north end of the Sea. To the eaft of Suez there 
 is a fmall bay, that divides again into two parts, extending fome way to 
 the north : Whether or no Heroopolis was on this moft northern point of 
 the Sea, or about Adjeroute, where it has commonly been thought to be, 
 it is not eafy to determine : It might either have been there, or on the high 
 
 Migdoi. ground to the fouth eaft. This I fuppofe to be Migdol, mention'd in the 
 journey of the children of Ifrael, different from Magdol near Pelufium. 
 Strabo feems in one place to make Cleopatris the fame as Arfinoe, where 
 there muft be concluded to have been fome alteration in the words of the 
 author, as he afterwards w fays, that near Arfinoe was Heroopolis, and 
 
 " "ASM f if)» inSiSitu «l T 'E{»0e?», it, ? A&tin it « KAM!r»W( in ™ « Ajj<&'» ii 
 
 XoAirov Kf jnoXiv 'h^ivavtv. Strabo Xvii. p. 804. 7T£sV A/yuffToK, x, Ai.u^'ef, x, xaloiXiW Sibyls 3 
 
 " Wivhi 3 'AfntiV) s l' t Hi"" kl •n'Jiifj Knit, ^ Ai/mm mM'til,**" row. Strabo. ibid. 
 
 Cleopatris 
 3 
 
O N E G Y P T. 133 
 
 Cleopatris on the Arabian gulf next to Egypt: He fpeaks of ports, canals, 
 and lakes near Arfinoe, the latter poflibly made by the tide, and might 
 be about the ftnall bays to the north eaft of it. This paffage of Strabo 
 alfo is a proof of an error in Ptolemy, who places Arfinoe forty minutes 
 fouth of Heroopolis. It is likewife very doubtful where Cleopatris was, cleopatds 
 unlefs it might be on the high ground to the north of Suez; this I fup- 
 pofe to be Pihahiroth. If Heroopolis was on the moil northern height I Pihabiroth. 
 have mentioned, the Red fea muft have loft ground; and indeed by the 
 fituation of places there is great appearance of it; the valleys, and the 
 high ground, with broken clifts, looking very much like fuch an 
 alteration; and we may fuppofe, that if the fea retir'd in this manner, 
 Cleopatris might firft be built more to the fouth than Heroopolis; and 
 that continuing to retire, Arfinoe might be built ftill farther to the 
 fouth, which I fuppofe to be Baal-Zephon. Arfinoe, with great rea- Baal-Zcpimn 
 fon, is fuppofed to be where Suez now is, as one fees to the weft and 
 north of it plain figns of an antient city. It would be a very fine fi- 
 tuation for a port, if the fhips could come up to the quay, as probably 
 they did formerly. It is fituated on a fmall promontory, making out eaft- 
 ward into the Red fea. The old city extended about a furlong to the 
 weft of this promontory, and the north weft corner of the Red fea is a- 
 bout two miles to the weft of the town. Two fmall bays of the fea 
 extend about a league to the north north eaft of the town. The port 
 feems to have been between the weftern bay and the town, to the weft 
 of which there is a raifed ground, that feems to have been the fite of 
 an antient caftle to defend the Hupping; for the old town extended alfo 
 to the north weft of the prefent. Here the fhipping lay fecure from all 
 winds, only a little expos'd to the eaft, which could have no great force, 
 the paflage over to the other fide into Afia not being above a mile. When 
 the tide is out, there is to the fouth of the town, a large fandy bank about 
 two miles long, to the eaft of which is a road to go out to the fhipping, 
 and when they have no wind, they draw the boats along by this bank; 
 about a mile fouth weft of it are the fhips, a league from the town, the 
 deep water being on the weft, where it is a bold fhore, there being fholes 
 on the eaft fide, where the land is low, whereas there are high hills all 
 along on the weft. Suez is govern'd by a Captan, which is the title of 
 an admiral, the high admiral being call'd Captan Bafhaw, or Head Ad- 
 miral. His bufinefs is more particularly with the fhips, and he has under 
 him a Caimacam, the ordinary governor of towns, who both together, or 
 feparately, govern the affairs of the place ; the latter commonly refides 
 here, the other when the fhips are in the ports ; and a Sheik Arab, who lives 
 here, has really all the power, whenever he pleaies to interfere ; and what 
 gives him much authority is the great fcarcity of water, which is brought 
 fix miles from Naba, to the eaft fouth eaft, on the other fide of the Red 
 fea ; fo that on the leaft difcontent with the people or their governors, 
 they will not permit water to be brought to the town, and they are 
 obliged to drink a fait water brought near a league from the north, from 
 (Beer-el-Suez) the well of Suez, fo that on this account it was a very great 
 advantage to have a canal cut from the Nile, as the canal of Trajan 
 was; for water is now fold at Suez in the fmalleft meafures. There are 
 four mofques in the town, and a Greek church in a houfe, there being 
 about a hundred and fifty Greeks here, and three or four Coptis. 
 
 Vol. I. Mm Part 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Part of the way from Adjeroute is in a fort of fofiee, that is thought 
 to be the canal of Trajan, and feems to have run clofe to the weft end 
 of the old city : From Cairo, through which it conveys the water, it goes 
 north, and north eaft and by north, and fupplies all the country with wa- 
 ter for feveral miles ; and by a branch from it, that large lake called the Birke 
 or Lake, is fill'd, in which the water remains moft part of the year. It 
 is about eight miles from Cairo, and a league north of Matarea; it may 
 be feven or eight miles long, and four broad ; here it is the pilgrims for 
 Mecca meet, near a week before their departure, and fet out altogether 
 on that journey. The canal after makes a great circuit round the hills 
 to the north and north eaft, infomuch that the common people fay it goes 
 near to Gaza, which muft be falfe. That lake reprefented in Sicard's map 
 with a canal going to it, which I fuppofe to be part of the antient canal, 
 may poffibly be the lake, fpoken of by Strabo x , in the Sethreitic province 
 to the fouth of Pelufium; for he fpeaks of canals going into this lake, 
 and feems to fay that one of them went to the Red fea by Arfinoe, 
 though in the whole, the fenfe of the author appears to be fomewhat 
 difficult. 
 
 The trade of Suez is only to Jedda on the eaft of the Red fea near Mec- 
 ca; it is carried on by one fleet of between thirty and forty fhips, that 
 fet out about the fame time from Jedda in the Hamfeen feafon, that is, the 
 fifty days before the middle of May, when the Merify or fouth winds ge- 
 nerally blow ; and if they chance to be too late, they muft wait another 
 year ; and when thole winds fail on the voyage, they fometimes are 
 obliged to pafs a twelvemonth in fome bad harbour, as they have often 
 done at Coffeir. They return laden with corn and rice in October; the 
 loading from Jedda is principally coffee, incenfe, fome few Indian and 
 Perfian goods, the richeft being carried by land with the caravan from 
 Mecca. There are other fhips that bring the coffee from Fefeca in Je- 
 men, the antient Arabia Fcelix, among which are five or fix Englifh and 
 French fhips generally employ'd: Five of the fhips which come to Suez 
 belong to the Grand Signor, the others to merchants. Each bag of coffee 
 weighs between three and four hundred pounds, and pays thirty Medines, 
 which is about two fhillings, when it comes out from Jemen. At Jedda 
 the tenth bag is taken, and half of it goes to the captain for his freight, 
 and half to the Pafha there ; and at Suez it pays a duty of near a penny 
 for every pound weight. When it is bought by our merchants it is puri- 
 fied, and lent very clean into England, but of late the Weft India coffee, 
 which is not fo good, has fold fo cheap, that it does not turn to account 
 to fend it to England. This Weft India coffee is carried into Syria and 
 other parts, and fold cheaper than the coffee of Arabia, and fometimes, to 
 deceive, is mixed with it. They can alfo bring coffee round by the Cape 
 of Good Hope, much cheaper than this way. The Ships that go between 
 Jedda and Suez, are built moftly in the Indies, rather clumfy, after 
 the Dutch manner; and probably many of them may be built at the 
 Dutch fettlements in the Eaft Indies. Moft of them are large, and they 
 affured me that the biggeft was forty-eight pikes high, that is, about double 
 the number of feet; but probably they meafure in two decks they have 
 at the ftern above the middle part of the fhip ; they have alfo one deck 
 
 * Strabo,. ibid. 
 
 raifed 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 raifed before, above the middle ; on this they have on each fide a little 
 room for a mofque, where they pray, and to the corner of each is rais'd 
 a little pole with a flag on it, mark'd with a half-moon : On the end of 
 the bowfprit is a little fhort mad, and a yard and fail on it, and over it is 
 a fmall gallery, on which the pilot ftands to look out and give the word 
 to the helm. They do not ufe pumps, but draw the water up with a lea- 
 thern bucket by the help of a windlace. On each fide of the well to re- 
 ceive the water that enters into the {hip, there is a ciftern about fifteen 
 feet long and eight wide, going down near to the bottom of the vefTel, 
 being made of wood; in thefe they put their water, and draw it up with 
 leathern buckets, and put it into large earthen jars for prefent ufe. Thefe 
 cifterns hold enough for a voyage of eight months, though they always 
 take in frefli water at Tor. Inftead of a handle to the rudder in the (hip, 
 they have a pole fix'd in it, inclining upwards beyond the fhip, being a- 
 bout fifteen or twenty feet long. A beam is laid acrofs the upper deck, 
 which extends on each fide about fifteen feet beyond the fides of the 
 fhip ; to each end of this is tied a yard or pole perpendicularly, fo as that 
 either end of it may be moved backwards or forwards towards the fhip, 
 as it is drawn. To the lower end of this comes a rope from the pole, 
 which is fix'd into the rudder ; to the upper end a rope is fix'd, which 
 is carried to a block at the corner of the ftern, and brought again to an- 
 other block at the upper end of the yard, and thence croffes the fhip over 
 the great beam, and goes to the other yard, to which, and to the ftern it 
 is carried in like manner, as on the other fide. When the fhip is to be 
 work'd, the rope of communication, which goes acrofs the fhip, is drawn 
 to a poft nearer the ftern, where there is a ftay made for it, in which it 
 is drawn either one way or other, as the pilot directs, and moves the helm 
 by the ropes fix'd to the lower end of the aforefeid yards; and when one 
 is drawn nearer, and the top of the yard comes nearer to the fhip, the 
 bottom confequently flies out, and the other pole is left perpendicular in 
 its natural direction. When there is a ftorm, and they let the fhip drive, 
 they loofe the rope ofF from that poft, and let the helm play as it will: 
 And this .feems to explain what is mention'd in faint Paul's voyage, Afts 
 xxvii. v. 40. " That when they had committed the fhip unto the Sea, 
 " they loofed the rudder bands, and hoifted up the main fail to the wind'' : 
 For thefe ropes, which direct, the helm, may be very properly call'd the 
 rudder bands, by which it is either fix'd or moved one way or other *. The 
 voyage to Suez is very dangerous, more efpecially fouth of Tor, where 
 there is much foul ground, and thofe trees of Madrepore, a fort of im- 
 perfect coral, which are about Tor and fouth of it, are as dangerous as 
 rocks to the fhips ; and in thofe parts, where the water is not deep, they 
 come to an anchor every night. The mariners fay, that from Tor to 
 Mount HoufTan it is three hundred miles, from which mountain to Mount 
 Jamba are three hundred more, and from that mountain to Jedda four 
 hundred, though the calculation feems very much to exceed the diftance. 
 And as Jedda is only fix degrees, or three hundred and fixty miles fouth 
 of Tor; it is poflible they may compute by fome meafure that is about 
 the third part of a mile, unlefs I might be any ways deceived by my in- 
 terpreter. They fometimes tie their cables to thefe trees, or ftones on the 
 
 * A drawing of this fort of helm may be feen in the firft plate. 
 
 rocks. 
 
i 3 6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 rocks. When the {hips are unloaded at Suez, they leave them without any 
 body in them, faften'd with two anchors, to each of which are tied four 
 or five great cables, made of a part of the date tree, and the cuftom- 
 houfe officers attend here only during the ihort time that the mips are un- 
 loaded and loaded again ; fo that, except at thofe feafons of bufinefs, the 
 little town of Suez is very thin of people. I was inform'd that the port 
 of Coffeir is exceedingly dangerous, which I fuppofe was ufed when the trade 
 of the Eaft Indies was carried on that way to Kept and Alexandria ; that 
 ■north of it is another bad port, call'd Old Coffeir, and north of this is a 
 fine port call'd Hamromyos, being like a round bafin ; one would con- 
 jecture that this was the antient Myos (Coffeir being Beronice ) as doubt- 
 lefs moft convenient for Kept, the antient Coptus ; to which place, 
 fituated on a canal of the Nile, the merchandices were carried both in the 
 antient and middle ages. It is laid that the weft fide of the Red fea is 
 much deeper than the eaft fide, all the way to Ethiopia, but that they are 
 not acquainted with that road. From Suez the paffage is about a mile 
 over the fea to the eaft fide of it • the boats go twice a day, both for wa- 
 ter, which is brought in lkins by camels to the fea fhoar, and alfo for 
 wood ; for of all places, Suez is the moft deftitute of every thing that the 
 earth produces. They have neither water, grafs, corn, nor any fort of herb 
 or tree near it, and not one garden about the whole town. 
 
 Egypt feems to have extended as far as the Red fea, and in a line from 
 the eaft fide of the Heroopolitic gulf to Sihor, call'd the river of Egypt. 
 It is probable the mountains to the eaft were the bounds between it and 
 Arabia Petrsa ; for we have Heroopolis on, or near the Red fea, as a capi- 
 tal of the laft province of Egypt ; the Cafiotis was on the fea, and the pro- 
 vince of Phagroriopolis in the middle between them. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of Arabia Petr^a. From Suez to Tor, and 
 Mount Sinai. 
 
 tv v <■ ARABIA was divided into three parts. Arabia Felix, between the 
 
 Divihon of /% r \ 
 
 Arabia. £^ Red fea and the Periian gulf, part of which is the territory of 
 Mecca, and the other part to the eaft and fouth eaft is call'd Jemen. 
 Arabia Petrsa, which has its name from being a rocky country, con- 
 fifted of this point of land between the two gulfs of the Red fea, and 
 extended away to the eaft of the Dead fea, and the river Jordan. To 
 the eaft of this, and of great part of Syria, was Arabia Deferta, bound- 
 Araiia Pe- ^ to ^ ea ^ tne Euphrates. In Arabia Petraa we were in Alia ; and 
 tra». Ptolemy mentions the black mountains which run along this promontory 
 between the two gulfs, extending as far as Judea y . The firft country 
 on that fide was the antient Sarracenas poffeffed by the Arabs, call'd Sar- 
 raceni, who at length extended themfelves as far as the country about 
 
 * AlalflVH & v T_ij %U%& T« HUhspMX MeA«v» * K«) »Za jWEV SitCWS TWU CgSWV MttPJ- TJJU 
 
 eLne T8 K«7«<I'a^^ w'^y, us in't tjjv 'IsJtw'av. Ptol. V. Afyu/rloi', ij re Saego^vtj wa^m. Km uV cwtw Mk- 
 
 c. 17. Ptol. ibid. 
 
 Elana, 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 137 
 
 Elana. From thefe all thofe Arabs, that, under Mahomet and his fuccefibrs, 
 over-run thefe countries, had the name of Sarracens among the European 
 writers, for I could never hear of this name in the eaft, or in the caftern 
 authors. This part of Arabia Petrsa confifts of mountains, narrow val- 
 ues between them, and fandy plains. On the weft there is a fandy plain 
 on the fea two or three leagues broad, which extends about thirty miles in 
 length to thofe hills of a white ftone that are about the vale or winter tor- 
 rent call'd Corondel. Thefe hills ftretch fouthwards by the fea for above 
 twenty miles, to a long valley two or three leagues broad, call'd the vale 
 of Baharum, having on the weft to the fea the hills of Gah, and on the 
 eaft the granite mountains, which take up near the whole breadth of this 
 promontory, Mount Sinai being about the centre of them. This plain ex- 
 tends fouthwards beyond Tor, to the end of the promontory. Eaft of the 
 mountains of Corondel, and thofe call'd Pharaone, there is a long ridge 
 of high mountains that run to the eaft, within thirty miles of Accabah, 
 the antient Elana, on the north of the eaftern gulf of the Red fea ; which 
 does not come fo far north as the weftern by about a degree, as near as I 
 could compute. Thefe mountains are called Jebel-Te. South of them, 
 for about twelve miles, is a fandy defert call'd Rembla (the Sand) and 
 fouth of this begin the granite mountains, which extend to the eaft, and 
 fouth to the fea. In all this country there are but three or four villages, 
 which are Tor, Jebele, Gedeheieh fouth of it, fomewhere in thofe parts, and 
 Sharme, which I had apprehended was to the eaft ; but I have fince reafon 
 to think it is towards the fouth eaft corner of this promontory, a day and 
 a half from Mount Sinai, where they have boats, and from whence the 
 convent is chiefly fupplied with fifh. About north north eaft of this place, 
 as I conjecture, on the fea, and three days from the convent, they told me 
 was Dahab, which fome people have thought to be Ezion-geber, becaufe 
 of the name, which fignifies gold ; fo, excepting thefe, there are no other 
 names of places, but what are given to mountains, vales, winter torrents, 
 and fprings. 
 
 The whole country is inhabited by Arabs, its natural inhabitants, who The Arab;, 
 live under tents, and ftay in one place as long as they have water, and 
 fhrubs, and trees for their camels to feed on, and they find it otherwife 
 convenient, for there is no tillage nor grafs in all this country. All their 
 riches confift in camels, a few goats, and fometimes fheep ; fo that they 
 live gn great poverty, having nothing but a few dates and a little goat's 
 milk, and bring all their corn eight or ten days journey from Cairo. The 
 Arabs are in different nations or clans, each under its great Sheik, and 
 every encampment under its particular Sheik. All round by the fea fide 
 are the Mifenides and Penuafi, who are a good people. On the mountains, 
 fouth eaft of Suez, are the Aiaidi, a bad people, and have poffefiion of 
 the water they are fupplied with at Suez. At Suez are the Arabs call'd 
 Beni Soliman, who have alfo of their nation at Tor ; their Sheik is the 
 moft powerful of all, and has an influence over all the reft. About the 
 convent are three clans maintain'd by it : They are but a bad people,- thofe 
 who are call'd Elecat are the beft. Next are the Soualli, and the worft 
 ot all the Wecelcadifaid, which may be a people from Said, or upper 
 Egypt ; and I obferved among the Arabs of the convent the particular 
 manner of mufick they have in Said, or upper Egypt. All thefe Arabs are 
 
 Vol. I. N n united 
 
138 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 united in a fort of league together; are very honeft among thcmfelves with 
 regard to property, and if one gives them to eat, there is no danger of any 
 injury from them; they are indeed liberal themfelves ; and if they kill a 
 fheep, they eat it all at once, tho' they have nothing but bread for their food 
 the day after, which is an univerfal cuftom among the Arabs g and thev 
 provide of what they have for all that come. Any one of thefe Arabs is 
 a protection againft all the reft, for they ftrictly obferve that law with one 
 another for their mutual advantage. • The Arabs about Accabah are call'd 
 Allauni; a very bad people, and notorious robbers, and are at enmity with 
 the others. Tho' the Arabs in thefe parts do not live in houfes, yet in 
 moft places where they find it convenient to dwell, they build little houfes 
 for their grain, fome of which I faw forfaken, becaufe the water had fail'd. 
 
 I went, in Suez, to the houfe of a Greek prieft, and the next day met 
 with a Turkifh captain of a fhip, a very obliging man, who gave me feve- 
 ral informations in relation to the navigation of the Red fea. Before I de- 
 parted, the good prieft alk'd me my name, that they might pray in the 
 church for my good journey, which is only a way they have of defiring 
 charity. About noon on the firft of April, we croffed over the bay to the 
 eaft, the camels being fent round before. They had received an account 
 that the Gedda fleet was coming ; and this afternoon we faw many of 
 them, and others the next day. 
 
 As I obferved before, Nabah or Nabate is to the eaft; from which place 
 they bring the water, and over it are the mountains call'd Nouebeh. Thefe 
 names, one would imagine, were fome remains of the antient name of the 
 Arabs, call'd Nabatasi that were in Arabia Petraa, infomuch that the 
 whole country has been call'd from them Nabatsa. The mountains here goby 
 the general name ofTe,but the particular parts of them have diftincl: names. 
 The fprings Three or four hours fouth of the landing place from Suez, are feveral 
 of Mofc. fp r i n g S on i; tt i e hillocks call'd Ein-Moufeh (the Springs of Mofes.) On thefe 
 rifing grounds, wherever they make a hole, the water comes up. There 
 are but four or five open now, tho' I faw the places where about a dozen 
 fprings had run. The water where it rifes, brings up the fand with it, 
 which is like a quagmire all round, and it is dangerous to approach too 
 near. I could not find the bottom with a pole, and they even fay that ca- 
 mels have been fwallow'd up in them. The waters are warm, faltifh, and 
 I believe there is fome fmall mixture of fulphur in them. One of the 
 fprings notwithftanding affords tolerable good water. Some of them have 
 been wall'd round, probably to keep up the water for cattle to drink, 
 and one feem'd to have had ftone channels made from it. There are two 
 or three palm-trees about this place. One would be apt to conjecture that 
 thefe fprings have their fource in the neighbouring mountains. From this 
 place a point ftretches out a great way into the fea, being fouth eaft of the 
 fhipping, and breaks the fea when the fouth eaft wind blows. Clyfma 
 might be near oppofite to this part, which Ptolemy places twenty minutes 
 fouth of Arfinoe, and probably it was between mount Attakah and mount 
 Gewoubee. Here I imagine that the children of Ifrael might pafs over the 
 Red fea. We lay here in the open air, as we did every night in this jour- 
 ney, and were careful not to have any fire after it was dark, not being as 
 
 wAfff^ A/AamTtir, Wfe/ojxx'pEk©- srcAAoif xw^wf rus iii. p. 176. 
 
 yet 
 
ON EGYPT. 139 
 
 yet in a fafe country, and only five in company. I faw about the plain 
 much of the fmall talc, and the next day many little hills full of it. On 
 the fecond we went on through the fandy defert, and came to a rifing 
 ground cover'd with little fhrubs, being the point that makes out to the 
 weft, oppofite to mount Gewoubee. Here we flopped, after having tra- 
 velled four or five hours, and I ventured to pitch my tent, to be under the 
 lhade of it, and defended from the heat of the fun. And travelling near 
 three hours more, we came to the plain at the beginning of Birk-el-Co- 
 rondel, which is the name they give the great bay of Corondel. We were 
 alarm'd by feeing two men running towards us from the eaft. The Arabs 
 threw off part of their garments, laid their arms bare to fight with the 
 fabre, and prepared their firelocks. They proved to be two perfons of Suez 
 that were in thefe parts with their camels ; who notwithstanding would 
 probably have robbed us, if we had not been too ftrong for them. We 
 came to the defert they call Shedur, the old Shur, and went on an hourDefcrtof 
 longer, and came to a place full of fhrubs, and ftaid there for the fake 
 of grazing the camels. Four of the Gedda fleet were anchor' d near, and 
 we had oppofite to us the caftle of Shedur on the hills to the eaft. On the 
 third we went on, and in an hour we came to the bed of the winter tor- 
 rent, call'd Ouardan, about a quarter of a mile weft of the road. In this Ouardan. 
 torrent is the fpring of Ouardan (Ein-El-Ouardan) where if they dig a 
 hole three feet deep, the water comes plentifully into it, probably from 
 the fea. The water feem'd rough, but not fait. There are a few palm- 
 trees here. The Arabs made a fliallow hole in the ground, and laid in it a 
 round piece of leather, and taking the water out of the deep hole with a 
 bowl, they pour'd it into this leather, and fo the camels drank, that were 
 unloaded and brought to the fpring. We ftaid here about two hours, and 
 going on came to a fandy plain, and in. three hours to a hill confifting al- 
 moft all of talc. We paffed over it in two hours, and came to a vale between 
 the hills, in which we travelled about two more, and afcending again, we 
 had on the eaft Jebel-Houffan, and on the weft Tebel-le-Marah, where to the 
 weft there is a fait fpring. This feems to be Marah, mention'd in the old Marah. 
 teftament. We came to the vale, or the bed of a winter torrent, call'd Co- 
 rondel, having travelled about eleven hours in all. This place is full of 
 fhrubs, and has many tamarifks in it. Here we ftaid all night, but found 
 no water. The day had been cool and windy ; and towards the evening 
 the wind raifed the duft in fuch a manner, that we could not fee far before 
 us. Being now in a country where there is no danger, I pitch'd my tent 
 whenever 1 pleafed ; which I always found convenient in the middle of the 
 day, againft the heat of the fun. j nO 
 
 Beyond the vale of Corondel, is a mountain on the fea call'd Jebel-Ha- Pharaoh's 
 mam-Pharaone (the Mountain of Pharaoh's bath.) On the fide of this bath ' 
 mountain there is a grotto by the fea fide, to which there are two mouths; 
 one of them leads by a narrow, low paffage, to a fource of very hot water, 
 which I believe exceeds in heat the baths of Abano near Padoua. As foon 
 as one enters this paffage, there is heat enough to make any one fweat very 
 plentifully. A little further in, it is excefiively hot ; and many people have 
 died that have gone as far as the water, by a vapour that extinguifhes the 
 lights. The water runs thro' the rock and fandy banks, in a great number 
 of little ftreams into the fea for a quarter of a mile, and it is even there 
 
 exceedingly 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 fexceedingly hot, and fo are the ftones, which are incrufted with a white 
 fubftance, that I fuppofe is of fait and fulphur. The water is fait; 
 and having brought a bottle to Cairo, it was found to be impregnated with 
 much earthy grofs fulphur, a neutral fait, and a fmall quantity of allum, 
 but no proportion of vitriol b . It is of fo naufeous a tafte, that it could 
 not be taken inwardly, but mult be ufed by bathing. Thefe waters are 
 efteem'd much for barrennefs in women, and impotency in men, and are 
 judged to be good in moft cutaneous and nervous difbrdcrs. They have 
 the water pour'd on them firft without, and then in the palfage, to make 
 them fweat more plentifully; this they do only once, and for forty days 
 eat nothing but oil, honey, and bread made without fait, and drink only 
 water with dates fteep'd in it. 
 
 On the fourth we came in three hours to the mountain torrent, call'd 
 Woufet, where there are feveral palm trees, and a fait fpring, that I thought 
 had a chalvbeat tafte. In three hours we came to Taldi, where there are 
 date trees, and as they told me a fait fpring. In half an hour more we 
 pafs'd Reifimah, fo call'd from a Sheik buried there ; on whofe tomb the 
 Mahometans throw a piece of bread as they pafs by, out of devotion. 
 In an hour more we came to a narrow valley call'd Menetfah, where the 
 road to Tor goes to the fouth, and that to Mount Sinai to the eaft ; but 
 in order to have company, my Arab would carry me a day's journey 
 round about, fo we went in a long valley to the eaft, in which we lay. 
 On the fifth, continuing in it, we turn'd to the north, up a gentle fandy 
 afcent, and having a hill to the fouth weft, call'd the Houfc of Pharaoh 
 (Bait-El-Pharaone) we came to the place that was near the encampment 
 of our Arabs. Here one of them, who had a difference with one of the 
 company, as he was in his own country, came and brought him a flower, 
 as a prefent, which being accepted of, was a fign that all was made up. 
 From this place on the fixth, I purfued my journey, only with one Arab, 
 going weft, and leaving the road to Mount Sinai in order to go to Tor, 
 and foon came into a narrow valley, which is the bed of a torrent which was 
 dry, as all the others were. The hills are very high on each fide, confirm- 
 ing of a great variety of red and grey granites, moftly with fmall grains ; 
 and in fome of thefe valleys I pick'd up fpecimens of the moft beautiful 
 granites, of which there are great variety, After we had travell'd a few 
 hours, we ftopp'd, and the Arab left us and led his camels to a fpring at 
 fome diflance, having been near four days without water. In the even- 
 ing we pafled by an encampment of Arabs, who invited us to ftay all night, 
 offerine; to kill a kid ; but the Arab, knowing we did not chcofe to ftop 
 where there were any people, told them we were in hafte. We pafled 
 
 • Thefe obfervations were made on this water bid ; but (landing twelve hours, there was a great 
 in Grand Cairo : fediment of a dark brewn colour, the water rc- 
 
 1. Scrapings of gall being put into it, pro- maining white and troubled. 
 
 duced very little change in the colour, till it had 5. Two ounces mix'd with jj of a folution 
 
 flood a confiderable time, when it turn'd greenilh. of fublimate, it turn'd prefently yellow; but af- 
 
 2. Two ounces being mixed with a dram of ter ftanding fome time, a little woolly unctuous 
 fpirit of fal atmoniac, it became turbid, and matter fettled at bottom. 
 
 there was a feulement of a little dark grey pow- 6. Two ounces mix'd with of ol. tartar, per 
 
 der. deliq. it turn'd turbid, and of a pearl colour. 
 
 3. It hardly chang'd colour when mije'd with 7. Two ounces mix'd with of fpirit of vi- | 
 fugar of violets. triol, it fuffei'd no manner of change as to its 
 
 4. Two ounces mix'd with of a folution of colour or elearnefs, 
 facch. Saturni, it became immediately very tur- 
 
 3 . Ml 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 r 
 
 by one place where we faw fome garments hanging on a tree, no one 
 being near, and expreflmg our furprize at it, the Arab faid there was no 
 danger here, they were all honeft people, and if any thing was loft, the 
 next encampment was obliged to make amends. We came into a plainer 
 country, and to the road we fhould have come in, and after to the torrent 
 of Pharan (Waad- Pharan) the bed of which is a quarter of a mile broad. 
 On the fevcnth we turn'd fouthward, and pafifed over a hill into the plain 
 of Baharum, about five miles wide, having only the mountains of Gah 
 between us and the Sea; we travell'd this day thirteen hours. On the 
 eighth we came into the valley of Tor, and in three hours to the palm 
 grove of Tor (Nach-El-Tor. ) At the firft entring of it there is a fait 
 fpring, the water of it fpreads over the ground, and the fait making a 
 cake on the furface, it looks like dry ground, which was the occafion 
 of an accident to me, which is look'd on as extraordinary, even among 
 the Arabs, and is generally very difaftrous ; for the camel going on this 
 ground flipt and fell down, and I came off; it was well the ground was 
 foft, for if a camel falls on ftones he is certainly fpoil'd. 
 
 Tor is a fmall village on the eaft fide of the Red fea, and lies above Tor. 
 a days journey near weft of Mount Sinai, fo that it is a day further to go 
 by Tor than by the direct road. Near it is a ruin'd caftle, inhabited by the 
 Arabs; the Greeks call this place Raitho (Vouhu) which might have its 
 name from being inhabited by fome of thofe people, call'd by Ptolemy 
 Raitheni, towards the mountains of Arabia Fcelix c ; it is inhabited by 
 Arabs, and about twenty families of the Greek church. The monks of 
 Mount Sinai have a convent here, to which they have fometimes retired 
 when they could not conveniently ftay at Mount Sinai; only one prieft 
 refides in it for the fervice of the church. There are a feci: of Mahome- 
 tan Arabs here, called Seleminites, as it is faid from their having a particular 
 regard for Solomon, as they have alfo for Abraham ; they feem to be the 
 antient inhabitants of the place, for they have the principal mofque to 
 which all the others go every Friday; and thefe in their prayers make 
 mention of Solomon as well as Mahomet. It is poffible they may be de- 
 fcendants of fome people in thefe countries, who in fome manner adhered to 
 the Jewifh religion ; or perhaps may be of the race of Jethro the father-in-law 
 of Mofes. About a league north of Tor is a well of good water, and all 
 about it are a great number of date trees and feveral fprings of a fait warm 
 water, efpecially to the fouth eaft, where the monks have their garden. Near 
 it are feveral fprings, and a bath or cwo, which are call'd the Baths of Mofes ; 
 the Greeks as well as fome others are of opinion, that this is Elim. The 
 greateft curiofities at Tor are the productions of the Red fea ; the fhell fifh 
 of it are different from thofe of the feas to the north of it; but what are moll 
 peculiar to it, are the feveral ftone vegetables, the Madrepora, a fort of 
 coral, the fungi or mufhrooms, and the red pipe coral. I went to the 
 houfe that belongs to the convent of Mount Sinai, where I was entertain'd 
 by the prieft : I had a letter to the fteward of the convent, who being ab- 
 fent, his fon came to me and brought me a prefent of fruit and fhells, 
 invited me to eat at his houfe, but excufing myfelf, he fent his provifions 
 in for me. 
 
 Vol. I. O o 
 
 To 
 
14a OBSERVATIONS 
 
 To the fouth of the town is a ruin'd caftle under an Arab governor; 
 and three or four miles to the fouth there is a village call'd Jebelee : Be- 
 yond it is the bay of Raie, where the ihips going to Suez often flay when 
 the wind is contrary. They fay the Red fea here is half a day's failing 
 over, though I think it cannot be above ten leagues. Oppofite to Tor 
 is Jebel Garib, and fouth of that is Jebel Zeit, that is, the Mountain of 
 oil, which they Jay has its name from a healing water there, which they 
 Produftiom think has the effecT: of oil. I went twice into the Red fea, fwimming 
 sL! hC Rcd over tne g roves j if 1 ma y f° ca ll them, of coral or madrepore, which 
 is fomewhat dangerous, and pull'd feveral of them up ; I could not ob- 
 fervethat they were in any part fofter at firft taking out than they are after- 
 wards, but I took notice that they changed their colour in a very fhort time; 
 fome that were reddifh to a deep yellow, and thofe that were white to a 
 pale yellow. I faw none of the fungi, or tube coral growing, the latter 
 is found at about the diftance of a day and a half: I got a finer piece 
 of it than ever I faw, which fhews plainly how it grows with a round 
 head like a colly-flower. 
 
 On the ninth we purfued our journey towards Mount Sinai. Crofting 
 over the plain to the eaft, and travelling about fix hours, we lay near the 
 entrance into a narrow vale, having join'd fome company that were going 
 that way. At Tor they demanded of me a fmall Caphar, but I did not 
 pay it, and a Sheik that was in the company took four that were due to 
 him on the road, and another four for Mount Sinai, becaufe his anceftor 
 having afiifted a merchant, who had like to have had a dangerous fall at 
 Mount Sinai, he gave him four Medines, which they have demanded of 
 every one that has come fince to Mount Sinai ; fo dangerous a thing is it 
 to give the Arabs money on any account whatfoever. We faw a hill with- 
 in the reft, call'd Jebel Mefeka, where they fay there was formerly a con- 
 vent. On the tenth we came to the torrent call'd Waad Hebran be- 
 tween the high hills of granite. I obferved fome infcriptions on the large 
 rocks that lay about the valley, and after faw feveral fuch infcriptions at 
 Mount Sinai ; there are many palm trees in this vale. We came to the 
 fountain Hebran, which is a little running ftream ; and to fuch another 
 half a mile further. We pafs'd through the country call'd Diar Frangi 
 (the country of the Franks) becaufe they fay formerly the Franks ufed to 
 come there. We had on the left Jebel Mofinewm, that is, the Hill where 
 Mofes flept ; we had left the convent of Pharan to the north, and going 
 on, we lay out of the road in a little valley ; for they feem'd to think 
 there was fome danger here, probably being near the Arabs of Mount Si- 
 nai. On the eleventh, after travelling fome time, we turned to the fouth 
 eaft, and went up a narrow vale call'd Negeb-Houah, which has a gentle 
 afcent, and water and palm trees in it, there being the bed of a winter torrent 
 to the left. We here pafs'd over a fquare fpot encompafs'd with loofe 
 ftones ; where 'tis faid they firft defign'd the convent, but they pretend 
 that the architect, by fome miracle was led to build it where it ftands. 
 Arrival at We went on and arrived at the Greek convent of St. Catharine's, com- 
 MoumSlni "- monly call'd the convent of Mount Sinai, being on the foot of Mount 
 Sinai, at the north eaft fide of it; I was drawn up in a machine, by a 
 windlafs, about thirty feet high, and convey'd through a window into the 
 convent. The archbifhop of Mount Sinai was not here, but his deputy 
 
 and 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 and the chief of the convent received me at the window, and ask'd if I 
 would go firft to my room, or to the church ; I went to the latter, where 
 they fung a hymn, and conducted me to the fhrine in which the body of St. 
 Catharine was depofited, and then fhew'd me the way to the apartments 
 they have allotted for ftrangers. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of Mount Sinai, and the places about it. 
 
 MOUNT Sinai in general, is call'd by the Arabs Jebel Mofes (the 
 Mountain of Mofes.) It is one hill with two fummits : The Greeks 
 divide the mountain into four parts. Half way up the mountain is a little 
 plain L. in the fifty-third plate. Between the two fummits to the north 
 of it, is what they call Mount Horeb. To the fouth is the height Y. cal- 
 led properly Mount Sinai. Mount Serich is a long narrow hill to the weft 
 of Horeb. Eaft of the great convent, and at the eaft end of the narrow 
 vale, which is north of Mount Horeb, is a round hill D. which the Greeks 
 call the Mount of Mofes. It joins to Mount Sinai on the fouth, and to 
 Mount Epifteme on the north. But the mountain is more common- 
 ly divided into Sinai properly fo call'd, and Horeb. I fhall fpeak of the 
 feveral parts of Mount Sinai in general, as they are diftinguifh'd by the 
 Greeks. The convent of Mount Sinai is fituated on the north foot of 
 Mount Horeb, and weft of the Mount of Mofes ; for fo I chufe to exprefs 
 myfelf, though the valley runs from the fouth weft to the fouth eaft. At 
 a well in the convent, call'd the Well of Mofes, they fay, Mofes met the 
 daughters of Jethro : That on the Mount of Mofes he was feeding the 
 flock of Jethro his father-in-law; and that in the fpot where now is the 
 chapel of the Holy Bufh, adjoining to the eaft end of the great church 
 of the convent, grew that tree which appear'd to Mofes as if it burnt and 
 was not confirmed, and out of which God fpake to him. In a garden 
 near, the fathers have planted a bramble, fuch as are common in Europe, 
 and fay it was fuch a bufh in which this miracle was wrought ; though fuch 
 brambles do not grow in thefe parts; but they tell you that formerly they 
 did. To the weft and fouth of Mount Sinai, and that part of it call'd 
 Mount Serich, is a narrow vale, call'd the vale of Jah, h. that is, the vale 
 of God. The vale to the weft is certainly the vale of Rephidim, where 
 the Ifraelites encamp'd when they came out of the deferts of Sin. Here they 
 fhew the rock i. which, they fay, Mofes ftruck and the waters flowed out, 
 when God told him he would ftand before him upon the rock in Horeb, 
 which was after call'd Maffah and Meribah; it is on the foot of Mount 
 Serich, and is a red granite ftone, fifteen feet long, ten wide, and about 
 twelve feet high. On both fides of it, towards the fouth end, and at top, 
 the ftone, for about the breadth of eight inches, is difcolour'd, as by the 
 running of water; and all down this part on both fides and at top, are 
 a fort ot openings or mouths, fome of which refemble the lyon's mouth that 
 is fometimes cut in ftone fpouts, but appear not to be the work of a tool. 
 There are about twelve on each fide, and within every one is an hori' 
 zontal crack, and in fome alfo a crack down perpendicularly. There is 
 
 alfo 
 
i 4 4 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 alfo a crack from one of the mouths next to the hill, that extends two or 
 three feet to the north, and all round the fouth end. The Arabs call this 
 the ftone of Mofes ; and they put herbs into thefe mouths, and give them 
 their camels, as a fovereign remedy, as they think, in all diforders *. It 
 was in this valley that Ifrael fought with Amalek ; and at the fouth weft 
 end of it, at the foot of Mount Sinai, is the convent of the forty martyrs R. 
 where the fathers have only a fervant who takes care of the large garden. 
 Here are the only fruit trees in all thefe parts, which they have of almoft 
 all forts. From that they afcend very high to the fouth weft, up to the 
 mountain of St. Catharine's 1. and on the fummit of it, pretend to ihew 
 Marine ^ P r ' nt m tne roc k where the body of that faint lay ,- who being tied to 
 a wheel at Alexandria, under the Emperor Maxentius, in order to be put 
 to death, it is faid the wheel fnapp'd in pieces ; and being afterwards be- 
 headed, her body (according to her prayer, that it mould not come into 
 the hands of infidels) they fay, was carried by angels to the top of this 
 mountain, and was brought to the convent by the monks, foon after it 
 was finifh'd. About a third of the way up is the fpring of Patridges, m. 
 which the Caloyers fay was difcover'd by partridges, who flew after the 
 body; when the monks refting there, who brought it down, and fuf- 
 fering with thirft, the birds all went to this fpring, by which means, as they 
 fay, they found the water. This mountain is much higher than any- 
 other in thefe parts; and when one is at the top of it, Mount Sinai 
 north eaft of it appears but low. From the top of this high mountain I 
 faw both the arms of the Red fea, and on the eaft fide, a part of the fea, 
 fouth of this promontory; and on the other fide into Arabia Fcelix. This 
 hill is a fort of a fpeckled ftone or marble, which may be rerkon'd 
 among the granite kind ; many parts of which are dendrite ftones mark'd 
 with beautiful figures of trees; as are alfo fome of the red granite ftones 
 of Mount Sinai, but are inferior to thefe in beauty. 
 
 The vale of Jah does not extend the whole length of Mount Sinai and 
 Horeb to the north, but opens into a plain near a league over every way, 
 which is called the vale of Melgah, n. This alfo to the north opens into 
 the vale of Raha o. which is to the weft of the vale of the convent 
 that is between Mount Horeb and Mount Epifteme. Oppofite to the 
 vale of Melgah to the north is the vale of Sheik Salem, c. it is to 
 the weft of Mount Epifteme, of which I fhall have occafion to make 
 mention. Thefe two vales of Melgah and Raha, I take to be the 
 .defert of Sinai, into which the children of Ifrael moved, before Mofes 
 was called up into the mount, and they remained here about two years. 
 It is to be obferv'd that the fummit of Mount Sinai, where God gave the 
 law, is not to be feen from either of them, and from very few places; 
 not from any that I could obferve to the north or north weft, being hid 
 by Mount Horeb. In the plain of Melgah is a well dug through the 
 rock ; and weft of the vale of Raha there is a narrow paflage to the eaft, 
 between the mountains; and fuch another well is dug at the entrance of 
 it, which is called Beer Aboufely. In this paflage there is water and palm 
 trees; and it is probable the encampment of the children of Ifrael ex- 
 tended this way, which might be a part of the defert of Sinai. From 
 the fouth eaft corner of this vale there is a gentle afcent, between Mount 
 Serich and Mount Horeb, which leads up to mount Horeb, pafles by the 
 * Views of three fides of this ftone may be feen in the fifty-third Plate. 
 
 chapels 
 
O N E G Y P T. 145 
 
 chapels of St. Panteleemon and St. John Baptift, between the fummits of 
 Mount Horeb, and fo goes into the little plain between Mount Horeb and 
 Mount Sinai. This is call'd the road of Serich ; and, according to a tra- 
 dition they have, it is very probable that Mofes went up to Mount Sinai 
 this way, being the eafieft afcent of the three ways up to the mountain, 
 and neareft to the fuppofed defert of Sinai. Coming out from this road, 
 into the vale of Rahah, about a furlong to the weft, is the fpot p. where 
 they fay Aaron caft the head of the calf ; for there being a hole in the rock 
 fomewhat in the fhape of a head, they will have it that the head of the calf 
 was caft there, which the Ifraelites worffiipped ; for they fpeak of the head 
 of this animal as the object, of their adoration. Near it is an advanced rock, 
 which fecms to be form'd naturally into fteps. They fay the idol was 
 placed on it; and certainly a fitter place could not be chofen to expofe fuch 
 an idol on, as it is feen from all the neighbouring vallies. On the north 
 fide of the vale of Melgah, is a fort of a narrow bed of a winter torrent 
 q. which the Greeks call Dathan and Abiram, and fay thofe finners were 
 there fwallow'd up by the earth ; but when this happen'd, they had left 
 the defert of Sinai : And the laft place mention'd before this account is 
 Hazeroth, in the defert of Paran. 
 
 It is conjectured by fome that the derivation of the name of mount Mount Sinai. 
 Sinai, is from (nJD ) in the Hebrew, which fignifies a bufh, on account of 
 the dendrite ftones of this mountain, which are full of the figures of trees 
 or fhrubs ; or, it might have its name from fome part of it abounding in 
 fuch fhrubs. Sine, alfo in the Pcrfian language, fignifies a breaft ; fo that 
 probably it has its name from the Hebrew, or from the other Eaftern word, 
 as mount Sinai and mount Catharine are the higheft hills in all thefe parts, 
 and poffibly might be likened to the breafts of the human body. It is alfo 
 in the eaftern writers often call'd Thor, by way of eminence, which figni- 
 fies a mountain ; and fomctimes it is call'd Thour Sinai, tho' fome eaftern 
 writers pretend that both the mountains and the town had their name from 
 a fon oflfhmael. 
 
 The moft ufual way up to mount Sinai, is that which is call'd the way 
 of the fteps, which begins at the convent on the north fide of mount Ho- 
 reb, the fteps are narrow, of the rough red granite of the mountain ; in 
 the different parts of which there is a great variety of granites, fome being 
 of the grey kind. Afcending, one paffes by a fine fpring E. in the fifty- 
 third plate, and after a chapel of St. Mary, F. concerning which they have 
 fome hiftories. Further is a narrow gateway G. at a pafs up the mountain, 
 and beyond that a fecond. It is faid that all Chriftians ufed to receive the 
 facrament on the top of mount Sinai, and deliver'd a certificate to the 
 keeper of the firft gate, that they had confeffed at the convent below ; and 
 receiving another paper there, deliver'd it at the fecond gate, which is juft 
 at the entrance into the little plain fpot I. between Horeb and Sinai, where 
 there is a well and a pool of water to the fouth. At K. is the afcent up 
 to mount Sinai ; to the weft is the road L. call'd the road of God, (Derb le 
 Jah) which has its name from the vale it leads down to, in which is the 
 convent of The forty martyrs. To the north weft is the road before-men- 
 tion'd, which Mofes is thought to have ufed, call'd Derb Serich ; it paffes 
 between the little fummits of mount Horeb, which hill abounds in fmall 
 fhrubs and aromatic herbs, where they feed their cattle. There are alfo 
 
 Vol. I. P p among 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 among them feveral white thorn trees, which I had not feen any where in 
 the eaft, except about Antioch ; and if the monks had not determined it 
 to a bramble, one would rather imagine this was the tree which is call'd 
 a bulh, and alfo that this was the fpot, being a retired place and proper 
 for pafturage, whereas the other has no herbage about it; but it is certain 
 that in Juftinian's time, when the convent was founded, the tradition was 
 of the place of the convent, tho' I don't find that they had this tradition 
 in the Bmprefs Helena's time, who built a tower within the fite of the pre- 
 fent convent, when fhe came to this place from Jerufalem, and made thofe 
 fteps up to Mount Sinai, of which there are ftill fome remains ; tho' fome 
 fay that fhe founded the chapel of the holy bufh. 
 
 About Mount Horeb there are four chapels ; St. John Baptift O. The 
 holy girdle of the virgin Mary, St. Panteliemon P. and St. Anne, 
 On a height over St. Panteleimon, there is a long cell cut out of the 
 rock R. where they fay two brothers, the fons of fome King, lived as her- 
 mits. And near St. John's chapel is a building with three cells in it S. 
 which belonged to a hermit of the name of Gregory. Returning to the 
 plain, to the fouth weft of it is a cell under a rock T. where St. Stephen a 
 hermit lived. At the very firft afcent up to Mount Sinai, from the vale 
 of Elias, are two chapels adjoining to one another, dedicated to Elias and 
 Elifha M. and on the north fide of them is a chapel now ruin'd, dedicated 
 to St. Marina. Within the chapel of Elias there is a little grott, where 
 they fay that prophet dwelt when he fled to this place : And now the 
 Arabs call the way to Jerufalem Derb Helele, which they told me fignified 
 the road of Elias. Going up that fteep afcent to Mount Sinai, fouthward, 
 is the print or fhape of a camel's foot, w. for which the Mahometans have 
 a great veneration, and they fay it is the print of the foot of Mahomet's 
 camel ; for they have a Itory that he and his camel were taken by Gabriel 
 up into heaven, that another foot was in Cairo, the third in Mecca, and 
 the fourth in Damafcus; and tho' fuch a camel muft have been of an ex- 
 traordinary fize, yet the figure of this foot is not bigger than ordinary. A 
 little higher is a great ftone hanging out from the rock X. and they have 
 fome ftory that Elias was there forbid to go further, as to afcend higher 
 was permitted only to Mofes. At length we arrived at the top of this moun- 
 tain Y. which is but fmall ; a plan of it may be feen in the fifty-third 
 plate. It confifts of two little fummits; one at the landing-place A. the 
 other B. a little to the fouth ; on the latter is a fmall mofque C. under 
 a rock, at the fouth eaft corner of it, is a little grott D. which is likewife 
 a fort of a mofque in the poffeflion of the Mahometans. Here they fay 
 Mofes faded forty days ; and there is an imperfe£t Greek infcription on the 
 ftone, which feems to be older than the beginning of the Mahometan 
 religion ; it is the tenth infcription in the fifty-fifth plate. On the other 
 fummit of the mountain, is the Greek church of our Saviour E. and 
 north of it a fmaller F. belonging to the Latins. According to the tradi- 
 tion they have in the country, Mofes received the law on the fpot where 
 thefe churches are. To the north of thefe churches, and adjoining 
 to the church of the Latins, is a great rock G. about nine feet fquare, 
 which is almoft as high as the top of the church. It is fomewhat difficult 
 to get to the top of it, being the very higheft point of the mountain. Un- 
 der the weft fide of this rock is a cavity, in which any one may conveni- 
 ently 
 
 3 
 
O N E G Y P T. 147 
 
 ently lie ; and from it there is a crack in the rock to the eaft, thro' which 
 one may fee the light. This is faid to be the place from whence Mofes 
 faw the back parts of the Lord, when he told him " that he would put 
 " him into a clift of the rock," Exodus xxxiii. it. The common people 
 fay the rock inclined forward, that Mofes might not fee, and that lifting 
 himfelf up to look, he left the impreffion of his back in the top of the 
 cell. The Mahometans have a great veneration for this place, and it is faid 
 often facrifice at it; and I faw the entrails of beafts near their mofque. 
 In the plan of the top of the mountain H. is a ciftern that was made a- 
 bove ground, as may be fuppofed to hold the rain water. I. is an arched 
 building, which might alfo be a ciftern. They fay there were three thou- 
 fand fteps from the convent to the top of the hill ; five hundred of which 
 to the fpring, one thoufand more to St. Mary's chapel, five hundred to 
 St. Elias's chapel, and thence a thoufand to the top. Eaft of the moun- 
 tain, at the foot of it, is a little valley Z. which is weft of the great valley, 
 there being a rifing ground between them. This is call'd the valley- of 
 Seer, and is the only place that retains any thing of the name of Mount 
 Seer, which the Ifraelites are faid to have compaffed in their travels about 
 the wildernefs, which might be a general name for many mountains. The 
 north part of Mount Sinai is of red granite for above half way up, all the 
 reft being a granite of a yellowifh ground, with fmall black grains in it, 
 and the mountain at a diftance appears of two colours. 
 
 Mount Epifteme, a. is fo call'd from a woman of that name, who lived Mount Epi- 
 on it with her huiband Galaktion, and afterwards a nunnery was founded eme ' 
 there, the ruins of which are ftill to be feen. At the fouth weft corner 
 of this mountain, at the entrance both into the valley of Sheik Salem, and 
 into that of the convent from the valley of Rahah, there is a little hill b. 
 call'd by the Arabs Araone, and by the Greeks the tabernacle of the tefti- 
 mony, (n uy.rt)t\ tS pxglvpa,) where they fay Aaron was confecrated , and where 
 he firft ofter'd up folemn prayers to God ; fo that if there is any regard to 
 be had to this tradition, it is probable that on this very hill was placed the 
 tabernacle of the teftimony of the congregation, which Mofes was order'd 
 to place without the camp afar off. 
 
 In one of the roads from the convent to Suez, there is exactly fuch ano- 
 ther ftone as the rock of Mafia and Meribah in Rephidim, with the fame 
 fort of openings all down, and the figns where the water ran. I was de- 
 firous to pafs by it in my return, but unfortunately was led another way. I 
 afked the Arabs about it, who told me it was likewife call'd the ftone of 
 Mofes, and that they judged it had the fame virtues as the other. The 
 firft account I had of it, I can very much depend upon, being from a ma- 
 nufcript journal, writ by the prefent Prefetto of Egypt from the Progagan- 
 da Fide, who went this journey with an Englifh gentleman now in London. 
 The way to it is by the valley of Sheik Salem, being about fixteen miles 
 from the convent to the north weft. The reafon why I am fo particular 
 is, becaufe it is faid that this muft be the rock Meribah, in the wildernefs 
 , ofZin, or Kadelh, which Mofes fmote twice, and the water came out a- 
 bundantly, being after they return'd into thefe parts from Eziongeber ; tho' 
 the father took no notice of this particular, but only relates what he ob- 
 ferved. About four hours from the convent, in this road, is a ftone the 
 Arabs pay a great refpecl to, having a tradition that Mahomet fat on it 
 
 when 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 when he came to this convent. I could find no tradition amongft the 
 monks that Mahomet was born here, or was a fervant to the convent, as 
 fome have faid, but found in a hiftory of the convent, that he was born m 
 the deferts of Kinfi, in Arabia Felix; and that when he came to the con- 
 vent, he was honourably entertain'd by them, and granted that patent of 
 their privileges in particular, and of Chriftians in general, which was in 
 their hands to the time of Sultan Selim, who efteeming it too precious a 
 treafure to be in their pofTeiTion, took it from them, and granted them one 
 under his own hand in the fame terms. They have great privileges grant- 
 ed in this patent; but the conditions proved to be hard, to give food to all 
 comers. A copy of it may be feen in the laft chapter, tranflated from the 
 modern Greek. The famous Sinaic infcription, mention'd by Kircher, is 
 on a fmall ftone about half a mile to the weft of the convent, at the foot 
 of Mount Horeb. Some have faid that Jeremiah hid under it the vefFels 
 of the temple ; but the place where he depoflted them was at Mount Nebo. 
 Others, with lefs appearance of truth, fay that Mofes and Aaron are buried 
 under it. It is faid the Arabs have fometimes feen a light about it, and 
 imagining the ftone to have a virtue in it, have broken off pieces from it, 
 as a remedy taken as a powder, when they are not well, and fo the in- 
 fcription is almoft entirely defaced. However, I faw enough of it to be 
 allured that it is the fame infcription that is in Kircher, of which I had a 
 copy by me, which he fays was compared by two or three perfons ; and 
 what remains of it may be feen in the eighty-fixth infcription of the fifty- 
 fourth plate f ■ There are on many of the rocks, both near thefe moun- 
 tains and in the road, a great number of infcriptions in an antient cha- 
 racter; many of them I copied, and obferved that moft of them were not 
 cut but ftain'd, making the granite of a lighter colour, and where the 
 ftone had fcaled, I could fee the ftain had funk into the ftone. I obferved 
 one particularly that is a black ftone both within and without, and the in- 
 fcription is white *, An explanation of the views I have given of Mount 
 Sinai in the fifty-fecond plate, may be feen below ||. 
 
 There 
 
 -f The Greeks call this infcription QtS ^et^nUa 
 y^djx^ala.^ {the words of God engraved.) This in- 
 fcription may be feen in Kircher's Prodromus Cop- 
 ticus. 
 
 * I took the following account of the places 
 where thefe infcriptions were found, as I have 
 number'd them. 
 
 1 . Half way up to the vale of St. Elias, from 
 the convent. 
 
 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 1 1 , Near St. Elias's chapel. 
 
 8. On the ftone where they fay Mofes lay hid. 
 
 9. On a rock near. 
 
 10. The Greek infcription in the grotto where 
 they fey Mofes faded forty days. 
 
 12. Going up tlie mountain of St. Catharine. 
 
 13, 14. About the foot of St. Catharine's. 
 
 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21. On a ftone at the 
 foot of St. Catharine's, directly fouth of the top 
 of Mount Sinai. 
 
 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27. On a ftone near. 
 
 28. On another ftone near. 
 
 2 9' 3°> 3 '» 3 2 - On a ftone near the convent of 
 the forty martyrs, which is hollow, as for a her- 
 mit's cell. 
 
 33. On a ftone near. 
 
 34) 35> 36- On a ftone near the convent of the 
 forty martyrs. 
 
 37. More to the fouth. 
 
 38, 39, 40. On different ftones near. 
 
 41. On a black ftone, the letters being white. 
 
 42, 43, 44, 45, 56, 57, 46, 59, 62, 63, 64, 
 47. On feveral ftones about the convent of the 
 forty martyrs. 
 
 65. Near the ftone of Rephidim. 
 
 66. North of Rephidim, at fome diftance. 
 
 67. 68. On the fame ftone as 65. 
 
 69, 70. On the ftone of Rephidim, in fmall 
 black letters. 
 
 7 r. On a ftone near. 
 72, 73. On another ftone. 
 48, 49s 50. On a great ftone. 
 51. On a ftone near. 
 
 74, 75. On a ftone in which there is a large crack. 
 
 77, 52. On different ftones. 
 
 78, 53, 80, 81, 82, 83. On feveral ftones a- 
 bout St. Cofmas and Damianus. 
 
 84. Near the church call'd St. Mary CEconomo. 
 
 || Explanation of the fifty-fecond plate. 
 A. Mount Sinai, as it appears from Mount 
 Horcb. 
 
 B. The 
 
I .-148 
 
 few 
 
 iMltDcJjl^p JSO6A6O 
 
 n 1 mtiiwcDuv/f' 
 
 6 0X0 
 
 6 f(nY N c b LhJ> 5 o> ^ 2^. 
 
 i/ 6 LP 
 
 •Ml ' 
 
 3.6 0/ L 
 
 HMHCTHdllKotMAh 
 TOYNTEB Q-..- N* YnoY 
 
 THM0KPA~\. £prw 
 
 K0C...A/V.-T/AC • 
 
 wy// 
 
6 'i^anyuoLw 
 
 7 ^ ir^ir -1/5/ 
 
 75 
 
 y.sciiifrioijxs siKAicg a) 
 
 IKSCRIPTIO UASI MEMlfOKIS INSCUXPTA 
 
 ACKMWIOAQTOY 
 Xu£INElNA\\H3t7HV£\JNoN0JXHH?rA%LQKtlM 
 
 A / rVTT TOY MI3YKH1CIN Y1T0>>- frlYtl M° NAJToTA M A 
 
 KKXMTtyscn enbHNeyf\oce'KAXNOTrCNoc 
 
 TON KeOsAKHC AHCTHToNAXl\k< C A ^LHTGH ITO vuti 
 
 > fc eirec eki T6d \uujHireNioec cAhtni 
 
ON EGYPT. 149 
 
 There are other convents and chapels about the mountains, befides thole 
 I have mention'd ; as at the north end of the olive garden of The forty- 
 martyrs, is the chapel and cell of St. Onuphrius, the latter being under 
 a rock. On the fouth fide of the valley of Melgah is the convent of The 
 apoftles St. Peter and St. Paul r. where the monaftery keeps a lervant. On 
 the eaft fide of it is the ruin'd convent of St. Mary of David. Oppo- 
 fite to this, over the hills to the weft, is the valley of Teleh t. a pleafant 
 retired place, where there is much water, and feveral gardens. Here is 
 the fmall convent of St. Cofmas and Damianus u. in which there is a 
 fervant. To the north there is a ruin'd building, called by the fathers The 
 prifon of St. John Climax, from a cell of that hermit under a rock that 
 is beyond it. This prifon was a fort of a convent, to which they fome- 
 times fent their monks to do penance ; and under it is a fmall grott in the 
 rock. They were at firft hermits here, and it is faid that the hermits of 
 this place and of St. Saba (the convent I fuppofe near Jerufalem) petitioned 
 the Emperor Juftinian to build them a convent, which he accordingly did. 
 
 The Emprefs Helena feems to have laid the firft foundation of the great 
 convent, in a tower fhe built, probably for her own convenience, when ihe Comem M 
 came here, as well as for the monks; it is in the heart of the convent, 
 where the archbifhop's lodgings now are; it is ftill called St. Helen's 
 tower, and has in it three chapels. This convent is built on a defcent, 
 but the defign feem'd to have been to raile the lower part by a great num- 
 ber of arches, many of which remain, and to have built the firft floor on 
 a level, and raifed two more on it ; for the walls round have three tiers of 
 windows or holes: There is nothing of antient building but thefe walls 
 and arches, and the church, which are well built, of large hewn ftone 
 of a coarfe red granite. The walls are fix feet thick, fome part of them 
 are ruined, efpecially almoft all the fouth fide, which is rebuilt of rough 
 ftone. There is a walk all round, on the top of the walls ; the old gate 
 now built up is on the weft fide; there is fome fign of a Greek infeription 
 over it, but fuch as I believe would not be legible, if any one could come 
 near it. They enter from the garden by a fmall door, the great door ne- 
 ver being open'd but when the archbifliop firft comes to the convent. Be- 
 fore it there is a court wall'd round, with the entrance built up, to keep 
 the Arabs from it, left they fhould force their way in; fo that all the 
 people are drawn up to a window about forty feet high. The convent is 
 very irregular and ill built, of unburnt brick: The walls having 
 little fquare towers at each corner, and in the middle of each fide. The 
 whole is two hundred and fifty-five feet long, from eaft to weft, and 
 about one hundred and fifty-five feet broad from north to fouth. They 
 have their mills, bakehoufes, and all offices that are neceiTary for people 
 who muft have every thing within themfelves. The great church of the 
 Transfiguration is on the lowed ground of the convent, towards the north 
 eaft corner; it conlifts of a nave, an ifle on each fide built lower, and three 
 
 B. The hill of Mofes, where it is faid he fed D. Mount Horeb, as it appears on the north 
 the flock of Jethro his father-in-law, extending on fide. 
 
 one fide to the foot of Mount Sinai, and on the E. Mount Horeb on the weft, 
 
 other to the foot of Mount Epifteme. F. Mount Horeb. 
 
 C. Mount Sinai and Mount Horeb, as they G. Mount Serich. 
 appear from the top of the mountain of St. Ca- H. Mount Sinai, 
 tharine. 
 
 chapels 
 
OBSERVAT I N S 
 
 chapels on the outfide, built ftill lower than the ifles ; the roof of it is 
 of cyprefs, cover'd with lead, and Teems to be as old as the time of Juf- 
 tinian; for on the beams are fome infcriptions to the honour of Juftinian 
 and his Emprefs Theodora, whofe piftures are likewife in Mofaic, over 
 the arch of the femicircle of the high altar. There are two rows of co- 
 lumns in the church, which I difcover'd to be of the coarfe granite ; for 
 they are plaifter'd over ; the capitals are all different, though doubtlefs 
 made for the church; fome of them are bad imitations of the Corinthian 
 order. The eaft femicircle has round it three degrees of feats like fieps, 
 and in the middle the archiepifcopal chair; they fay, by fome miracle 
 they were fcrmerly forbid fitting in it, fo now they put the tabernacle on 
 it, in which are preferved the holy myfteries. The church was very beau- 
 tifully paved ; but being deftroy'd by fome Turks, who thought to find 
 treafures, it was as beautifully repaired in the laft century, under the arch- 
 bifhop Athanafius ; and there is in it a great variety of beautiful and coft- 
 ly marbles, brought from Damafcus. There is an inclofed portico be- 
 fore the church, and a tower feems to have been defign'd at each end, 
 over the chapels at the corner. This church is probably a very perfeft 
 model of an antient Greek church. On the partition between the high 
 altar and the church is a marble cheft adorned with reliefs of foliages, in 
 which are preferved the relicks of St. Catharine. Among them is the 
 ikull which probably is imperfeft, becaufe it is not taken out, and the left 
 hand very perfeft, having on the fingers feveral rings; and is adorned 
 with pearls. The Greeks fay the whole body is in it, which may be much 
 doubted. Adjoining to the eaft end of the church is the chapel of The 
 holy bufh, which, they fay, grew where there now lies a white marble 
 ftone under the altar, which they kifs with great devotion; no one en- 
 tering into the chapel without putting off their fhoes. To the north of 
 this is a chapel, and there is another on the fouth fide of it; the latter 
 is call'd the chapel of The holy fathers; and it appears by a Greek in- 
 fcription, that twelve martyrs are there buried, who are fuppofed to 
 be of the number of the forty thoufand martyrs. In the fifty-fixth 
 plate is a plan of the convent and the church ; the explanation of 
 which may be feen below *. About the convent are fixteen other cha- 
 
 * I was not fo evafc in the plan of the convent, 
 as of the church, the buildings being all ill con- 
 triv'd, 
 
 A. The church. 
 
 B. A mofque. 
 
 C. The archbifhop's lodgings on this fpot, 
 where the tower was built by the Emprefs Helena. 
 
 D. The chapel of St. Stephen. 
 
 E. Lodgings for pilgrims. 
 
 F. The chapel of St. Michael. 
 
 G. The chapel of St. Bafil, Gregory and Cliry- 
 foftom. 
 
 H. The chape] of Mofes and Aaron over St. 
 Nicholas. 
 
 I. The lodgings of Jeremias, a depofed patri- 
 arch of Conftantinople. 
 
 K. The refectory. 
 L. The kitchen. 
 
 M. The mill, bakehoufe, and ftable. 
 N. The well of The holy bum. 
 O. The garden of The holy bum. 
 
 P. The chapel of St. George. 
 
 The window where people are drawn up. 
 
 R. The library. 
 
 S. The fuperior's room. 
 
 T. The chapel for the Latins. 
 
 V. Rooms for thofe of the Latin church. 
 
 The chapel of the Blefied Virgin Mary, in 
 the archbifhop's lodgings, as likewife thofe of the 
 Fountain, and of our Saviour, are on the fecond 
 floor. 
 
 r. The chapel of St. John Baptift. 
 
 A. The door to the garden. 
 
 0. The well of Mofes, where he met the 
 Daughters of Jethro. 
 
 H. The chapel of St. Demetrius, Sergius, and 
 Banchus. 
 
 n. The chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot. 
 2. The chapel of the Five martyrs. 
 C». The chapel of St. John the Evangelift. 
 ¥. The chapel of St. i J eter and Paul. 
 
 u. Courts. 
 
Back of 
 Foldout 
 Not Imaged 
 
ON EGYPT, 
 
 pels ; one of which is in the garden, adjoining to the dormitory of the 
 archbifhop and monks, who are laid in a houfe built above ground, 
 without being inhumed; and the archbifhops only have the honour of 
 coffins. 
 
 They have two wells in the convent, one is called the well of Mofes, the 
 water of which is cold, and ufed in fummer, the other, the well of The 
 holy bum, which is not fo cold, this they drink in the winter. All their 
 fprings and wells depend much on the rain ; and in the valleys, between 
 the fummits of Mount Horeb, they have built walls to keep the water 
 from running off, that it may link down and fupply their wells ; not- 
 withstanding this they want water for moft of their gardens, by reafon 
 that the rains of late years have not been plentiful ; and many of their 
 trees die on that account. 
 
 The patriarchs of Conflantinople when depofed, have often been ba- 
 nifh'd to this convent. If I do not miftake, Athanaflus was of this mo- 
 naftery j and I was inform'd that Sergius was a monk here, who was an ac- 
 complice with Mahomet; and I fuppofe is the fame perfon that ailifted him 
 in completing the Alcoran, and the fyftem of the Mahometan religion. 
 
 The convent is exempt from all jurifdidtion, and is govern'd by a bifhopj 
 who has the title and honours of an archbifhop; he is elected from their 
 own body, by the monks of this convent, and the convent at Cairo, and 
 goes to Jerufalem to be confecrated by the patriarch. Under him there is 
 a fuperior that fuper-intends under the archbifhop when he is prefent, and 
 governs in his abfence ; but does very little without confulting in a meet- 
 ing that is compofed of feven or eight either of the oldeft men, of greater!; 
 
 a. Courts. 
 
 x. The court where the priefts and deacons 
 lodge. 
 
 As the building of the Convent is very irregular, 
 fo this is not given as an exact plan of all the 
 apartments, but only to give ageneral idea of it. 
 References to the church. 
 
 a. The throne formerly ufed by the archbi- 
 fhop. Round and below it are the feats like 
 fteps, on which the priefts ufed to fit as they do 
 at this time when the archbifhop performs the 
 ceremony of warning their feet ; id rvvfyovov. 
 
 b. The fhrine of St. Catharine. 
 
 c. The throne of the archbifhop, in which he 
 fits only on fundays and feftivals, fitting in the 
 next to it on other days, i 
 
 d. The feat of any other bifhop. 
 
 e. The feat of the archbifhop, when he di- 
 ftributes the loaves, in memory of our Saviour's 
 miracle. 
 
 ee. The feat of the ceconomift. 
 
 f. The feat of his deputy, 
 
 g. The feat of one of the firft priefts, when 
 the archbifhop fits on the other fide. 
 
 h. Seats of the fervants of the ceconomift. 
 
 i. The feat of the porter. 
 
 k. The feat of the prieft that adminifters. 
 [. The feat of the perfon thataflifts when they 
 adminifter the facramcnt. 
 
 m. The feat where the archbifhop commonly fits, 
 o. The feat of the vicar or ftewaid, o Ijt/t^ot®' 
 p. The feat of the facriftan. 
 q. The feats of the lay Caloyers. 
 r. The chapel of The holy bufh. 
 
 s. The chapel of St. James. 
 
 t. The chapel of The holy fathers. 
 
 u. The chapel of St. Antipas. 
 
 v. The chapel of St. Conftantine and Helena. 
 
 w. The chapel of St. Marina. 
 
 Y. The chapel of St. Anne. 
 
 x. The chapel of St. Simon Stylites. 
 
 y. The chapel of St. Cofmas and Damianusi 
 
 z. The defk on which they place a picture, 
 which they go and kifs after they have taken the 
 bleifed bread, ii nrfoo-xwtilw'e^ov r «sco'v«v. 
 
 a. A defk at which the deacons read to the 
 priefts, oivxhoyeiov. 
 
 /3. A place to read at. 
 
 y. The communion table, tj ayU T£«Ve£«. 
 
 f. The chancel, ii> «.ym /3!J/*#. 
 
 $. The place where they put the bread and 
 wine, >J Hr§o3e<rjf. 
 
 «. The partition between the church and the 
 chancel, n! ts^ttAov. A view of it at the crucifix. 
 
 tj. The fpot where they fay Mofes flood when 
 he faw the burning bufh. It is reprefented at 
 large at a. 
 
 6. A curtain they draw when the prieft confed- 
 erates, »J S-u'g^f. 
 
 a. The flails, t» savtii*. 
 (j.. The choir, 6 ^ogo'f. 
 
 v. The place where they keep the oil and other 
 things for the ufe of the altar, is ns^txt&ij. 
 £. The facrifty, ij o-xeuotpuAaW. 
 sr. The portico, o vafa);. 
 *. The middle nave of the churh, is safisAjxoV 
 ■f. The ifles, t» oVio9-fu r x°^ y - 
 +. The chapels, «'i fs^Khr^itti. 
 
 judgment 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 judgment, or of thofe who have done moft fervice to the convent, whe- 
 ther prieits or lay-brothers, no office or feniority intitling any one to be a 
 member of it *. 
 
 In Cairo they are govcrn'd by an Archimandrite, which is the title of 
 thofe who are fet over the monks that are abfent from the principal con- 
 vent, and are in any city ; and he, in the abfence of the archbifhop be- 
 yond the fea, is the perfon that governs the whole affairs of the convent. 
 About two hundred years ago, having been diffatisfied with their laft arch- 
 bifhop, they chofe a fuperior under the title of Goumonos, which is the 
 name they give to fuperiors of convents, and they remain'd under this go- 
 vernment tor eighteen years. The members of the convent are priefls, dea- 
 cons, or lay brothers ; the latter are employ 'd in fuperintending, or fer- 
 ving about all domeflic affairs. Their manner of living is very rigid, and 
 kept more ffriclly to than in any ether convent; they never eat flefh; and 
 in lent, nothing that is the produce of flefh, as cheefe or the like ; and 
 they are permitted to eat oil and fhell-fifh only on faturdays, fundays, and 
 feaft days, in lent ; no Greek being allow'd to eat any other fifh during 
 that feafon: And any one may conclude how coarfely they fare, when I 
 hardly faw any other difhes there than rice ill drefs'd with oil, vinegar, 
 and onions, and fometimes with onions and dried fifh, the fame fort of fifh 
 dreffed in a foup, dried horfe beans fodden in water, falad, and cheefe. 
 They have two fevere falls, which as many as can, obferve; they eat nothing 
 from thurfday evening to faturday in the afternoon, on eafter eve ; and 
 from funday evening to afh-wednefday in the afternoon. 
 
 The fervice of the Greek church here is perform'd with much greater 
 decency than ever I faw it in any other place, and, it is probable, moft a- 
 greeably to the antient cuftoms of the Greek church; for tho' the convent, 
 as they fay, has been twice rifled, and the monks obliged to fly, yet they 
 fbon return'd again ; fo that there has been a conftant fucceflion ; and fome 
 years paft they retired to Tor, not being able to fupport the Arabs. They 
 ought certainly to perform their offices well, for it is their whole employ- 
 ment. The offices are very long, but they fhorten them by faying them 
 very faft, which one may conclude from their often faying Kyrie Eleyfon 
 forty times without drawing breath. Their offices take up great part of 
 their time. In lent they rife at midnight, and perform certain devotions, 
 celebrating the facrament only four times a week, from nine to eleven, 
 when they dine. At other times they do not rife at midnight, but begin to 
 celebrate before day. They have fervice at four in the afternoon, and when 
 it is over, they fup and go early to repofe. Juftinian fent them a hundred 
 vaffals from the Red fea, and as many more from Egypt, to ferve the con- 
 vent ; they were formerly much increafed, but they deftroy'd one another 
 in fome contentions they had, fo that about the convent there are not forty 
 families : There are of them at Tor and other parts, the Arabs not defiring 
 they fhould be all together, left they fhould be too hard for them : Thefe 
 the convent fupplies with bread. One is always within the convent, to take 
 care of the large mofque, the Mahometans would have near their great 
 
 * The fuperior of the convent they call Ai- prieils they call 'It^vnyji. The deacons Ai«- 
 
 xar©-. The fuperior they chofe in the place of xovoi. The lay brothers Ka^oj-t^oj, which accord- 
 
 an archbiihop was called 'Hya'ps*©-, the common ing to their pronunciation of 5/, is Caloyeroi. 
 
 title of thofe who prelide over convents. The Their meeting or chapter they call 1, £rfva{tft 
 
 church, 
 
ON EGYPT. i S3 
 
 church, and they have one or two more within their walls for fome fervices. 
 Thefe vaflals take care of their gardens, and do other affairs for them as 
 they have occafion. 
 
 When pilgrims arrive at the convent, acaloyer or lay-brother is appointed Pilgrim* at, 
 to attend on them, to prepare their provifious in a place apart, which is ' convert ' 
 ferved in their chamber. They are iliewn all the chapels and offices of the 
 convent, the library, where there are a few manufcripts, but I faw none 
 that were rare. They have many Greek books of the firft printing. The 
 pilgrims commonly attend the fervice of the church twice a day, and on 
 fome certain days they dine in the refectory with the monks; and foon af- 
 ter they arrive, being conducted from the church to the refectory, they 
 perform the ceremony of warning the feet, as they do at Jerusalem. If the 
 pilgrim is in orders, a prieft performs that ceremony ; I had that honour 
 done me by the fuperior. One of the monks, after this ceremony is over, 
 holds a bafin and urn to wafh the hands, and then fprinkles the pilgrims 
 with rofe water ; if it is a lay perfon, one of the lay monks performs thefe 
 ceremonies, the whole fociety fitting in the hall, and chanting hymns. 
 They fit at the table half a quarter of an hour before they rife up to fay 
 grace ; one of them reads at a deft all the time of dinner, and a father 
 regulates by a bell the portions he is to read. On the archbifhop's table, 
 at the upper end, was a cover'd plate with bread in it, and on each fide 
 two fmall filvercups of water; one of the priefts carried the plate round, 
 all prefent taking a piece of bread. In like manner the cups were carried 
 round, which are fill'd with wine when they have plenty ; every one 
 drinks a little out of them. After this they went and fat on each fide of 
 a pafTage, at the upper end of which is the archbifhop's chair. Here they 
 remain fome time and difcourfe ; every one taking a plate of wheat or peafe 
 out of baskets that are placed there, and picking them clean ; probably with 
 an intention to infinuate, that even their diverfions ought to be attended 
 with fome ufeful actions. We went to the archbifhop's apartments, where 
 coffee and other refrefhments were ferved, and the book of benefactors was 
 fhewn ; it being cuftomary to give fomething after this ceremony is per- 
 form'd. 
 
 On palm-funday they expofed the relidts, and about noon I fet out with Afcent to 
 a Caloyer to go up the mountain. Being let down by the window, we MountSim! - 
 afcended up to the plain of St. Elias, that divides the fummits of the 
 two mountains. We vifited all the parts of Horeb, and went up to the 
 top of Mount Sinai, and came down again to the plain of St. Elias, and 
 lay there in the chapel of that faint. The next day we went along the 
 valley, between the two hills, to the weft, and defcended the fteep hill to 
 the convent of The martyrs. We after begun to afcend the mountain of 
 St. Catharine, which was a fatigue that lafted four hours. From the top 
 1 had a fine view all round, and defcended to the convent of The martyrs, 
 where we repofed that night, after a day of great labour. The next day 
 we went along the valley of Rephidim, and came to the convent of the 
 Apoftles, in the valley of Melgah, and from it went over the hill to the 
 weft. We came to the convent of St. Cofmas and Damianus in a valley, 
 where we faw all the remains of convents and hermitages. The next morn- 
 ing we return'd into the plain, and faw feveral things in the way to the 
 convent ; and I went to Jebel Moufeh, to the fouth eaft of it, which is of 
 
 Vol. I. R r grey 
 
j 54 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 grey granite ; and was drawn up again into the convent. Cn good-fri- 
 day the relicts were again expofed. The next day I rofe after midnight to 
 fee the ceremonies of the church, and fet out again to go a fecond time up 
 Mount Sinai, which at firft they made fome difficulties of, being contrary 
 to their ufual cuftoms; but I had a defire to go up another way, by which 
 they fay Mofes ufed to afcend the mountain ; it is call'd Derb Seritch j fo 
 I went to the top of Mount Sinai a fecond time. 
 
 On eafter-funday I rofe foon after midnight to fee their ceremonies. All 
 being over about day-break, we went to the archbifhop's apartments, 
 where they broke their fevere faft, by eating eggs boil'd hard, and cheefe ; 
 and coffee was ferved round. The monks feem'd extremely pleafed that 
 their lent was over, were very chearful, fung hymns in their chambers, and 
 went to repofe. We all dined together in the refedlory about ten in the 
 morning ; and coffee being ferved in the paffage, I was invited to the fu- 
 perior's room, and from thence we all went to pafs fome time in the gar- 
 den. They had ask'd me if I would perform our fcrvice on eafter-day 
 in a chapel that is allotted for that purpofe ; there being one for the Ro- 
 man Catholicks, and, if I miftake not, another for all other profeffions. 
 Natural hi- As to the natural hiftory of this country, there is little to be added to 
 t^"' Ara " what I have already remarked. I faw few trees, except the Acacia, which 
 the Arabs here call Cyale, and I believe is the fame that is call'd Sount in 
 Egypt ; it is certain that they colleft the gum Acacia from it. Some 
 parts of the defert abound in fmall fhrubs. There are very few birds in 
 this country, where there is fo little food for them. I obferved fome flocks 
 of large ftorks with black wings, which were probably changing their cli- 
 mate and going to the north againft the fummer. Of wild beafts, they 
 have only a few tygers, or leopards, being a fmall fpotted fort they call 
 Gatto-Pardali, fome antelopes, hares, wolves, and Ahenas. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the journey of the children of Israel. 
 
 TO the account of Mount Sinai, and that part of Arabia, I fhall add 
 fomething concerning the journey of the children of Ifrael out of 
 the land of Egypt. 
 There are four roads from Cairo to the north part of the Red fea ; one 
 call'd Derb Ejenef is the fartheft to the north, and continues a confidera- 
 ble way along the plain to the north, or north north eaft, then afcending 
 between fmall hills, it pafles by the mountains call'd Hauhebi, and defcends, 
 as I was inform'd, from the north to Adjeroute, which is to the north 
 north weft of the Red fea ; tho' I have fome reafon to doubt, if it does 
 not come into the common road to the weft of Adjeroute, in the narrow 
 pafs about Hamatibihara, where I was fhewn a road coming in eaft of the 
 road of the Hadjees or pilgrims. The fecond road, call'd Derb Had jar, 
 afcends up the hills to the fouth from thofe burial places near Cairo, call'd 
 Keid Bey; goes on eaft of thefe as on a fort of a plain, having in many 
 parts little hills on each fide, and a range of hills at fome diftance to the 
 
 fouth. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 fouth, and at length going in between the hills, a little beyond a valley, 
 call'd Tearo Said, paffes a very narrow defilee, call'd Haraminteleh, and 
 then coming into a fort of open plain, having Mount Attakah on the fouth, 
 it leads to Adjeroute. At Tearo Said, a third road Derb-el-Hadjee (the way 
 of the pilgrims) comes into the laft, having gone north to the Birke or 
 lake, eight miles from Cairo ; from which place it afcends the low hills 
 to the eaft, and continues on them. The moft fouthern road is Derb 
 Toueric, being fouth of thofe hills on which are the two laft roads, and 
 as I fuppofe, paffes between the two ridges of mountains, Attakah, and 
 Gewoubee, which are the two hills on the weft of the Red fea, next to 
 Suez, and paffes over the fouth part of Mount Attakah, and fo by the fea 
 fhoar leads to Suez, or directly to Adjeroute. It is moft probable that the 
 Ifraelites went by the firft road Derb Ejenef, becaufe it comes out from 
 the mountains neareft to the wildernefs of Etham or Shur, which appear 
 to be the fame from Exodus xv. n. and Numbers xxxiii. 8. The firft- 
 born were flain the night of the fourteenth of the month Abib, that is, the 
 night before the day of the fourteenth, and they were thruft out the morn- 
 ing of the fourteenth ; and the people of Ifrael being probably gather'd 
 together to go away (according to Pharaoh's promife) on the eaft of the 
 Nile, oppofite to Memphis, that day they might go north, leaving the land 
 of Ramefes ; for I rather fuppofe it to be a country than any particular 
 town ; and it feems to be the country about Heliopolis, now call'd Matarea. 
 And they came to Succoth, which might be about a village call'd Chanke, 
 about five hours or ten miles north of Cairo, and near this place there is 
 water of the canal, with which they might provide themfelves. We may 
 fuppofe they fet out the night after the fifteenth ; they then encamped in 
 Etham, in the edge of the wildernefs, that is in the edge of the wilder- 
 nefs of Etham ; or it might be at a winter torrent call'd Etham, which 
 might give name to the, wildernefs, and be at the edge of it. This muft 
 have been about the north of the Red fea, and probably inclining to the 
 north eaft of it. They were order'd to remove from Etham, and to turn 
 again unto Pihahiroth, oppofite to Baalzephon, Exodus xiv. 1. before it, be- 
 fore Migdol, Numbers xxxiii. 7. between Migdol and the fea, before Baal- 
 zephon by the fea, Exodus xiv. 2. and the Egyptians overtook them en- 
 camping by the fea, befide Pihahiroth, Exodus xiv. 9. They turn'd again 
 to Pihahiroth, a place they had been at before, probably the old Cleopa- 
 tris, fomething nearer the defcent from the mountains. Befide, or on the 
 fide of this place they were encamping, it may be a little to the fouth fouth 
 weft, over-againft Baalzephon, which might be Arfinoe, and be fo call'd 
 from fome extraordinary worlhip in it of the fun or Baal. They were in- 
 camping by the fea, probably to the weft of it, before Migdol, and between 
 it and the fea. Migdol might be the antient Heroopolis, which I fuppofe 
 to have been where Adjeroute is; fo that the Egyptians coming down the 
 hill, in the road call'd Derb Ejenef, and feeing that they could fhut up any 
 retreat both to the north and weft, Pharaoh might well fay of them " They 
 " are entangled in the land, and the wildernefs hath fhut them in.'' We 
 may fuppofe that the Ifraelites marched moft part of the night ; for it is 
 faid the Egyptians came not near the Ifraelites all the night ; and that the 
 Lord caufed the fea to go back by a ftrong eaft wind all that night ; and 
 probably towards the morning the waters were divided, and the children 
 
 of 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of Ifrael went into the midft of the fea ; and in the morning watch, the 
 Lord troubled the hoft of the Egyptians ; and Mofes ftretching out his hand, 
 the waters came again and overwhelmed the Egyptians. It is probable 
 that the Ifraelites went on the weft fide of the Red fea, till they came to 
 the afcent over the fouth part of Mount Attakah, in Derb Touerik ; for 
 fuch a great number of people to pafs fuch a road would take up much 
 time ; fo here it is probable the waters were divided, and that they paffed 
 over to a point near the fprings of Mofes, which makes out a great way 
 into the fea, within which the fhips now lie at anchor. And the tradition, 
 in the country is, that the Ifraelites paffed over where the fhips anchor. 
 The Red fea lies here pretty near north eaft, and fouth weft; and the 
 Lord fent a ftrong eaft wind all that night, by which he caufed the fea to 
 go back ; but then he alfo divided the waters, and made the fea dry land. 
 The waters might be faid to be on their right, if the fea had retired by 
 the natural caufes of wind and tide ; tho' it could not well be faid to be 
 a wall to them on the right, as it could by no means be faid to be a wall 
 to them on the left, if all the water was retired to the fouth weft or to 
 the right ; but the waters flood on a heap, and were a wall to them on 
 their right hand and on their left. Thelfraelites landing here, might drink 
 of the waters of Ein Moufeh (the fprings of Mofes) which might from this 
 have the name continued among the Jews by tradition, who might after 
 vifit thefe places, and fo it might become the common name when Chriftianity 
 was eftablifh'd. They then went three days journey into the wildernefs of 
 Etham, or Shur. The wildernefs of Shur might be the fouth part of the 
 wildernefs of Etham; for about fix hours from the fpring of Mofes, is a 
 winter torrent call'd Sedur, and there is a hill to the eaft higher than the 
 reft, call'd Kala Sedur (the fortrefs of Sedur) from which this wildernefs 
 might have its name. In thefe three days they found no water ; but meet- 
 ing with a fpring of bitter waters, Mofes being order'd to throw a tree into 
 them, they were made fweet, and the place was call'd Marah. About 
 four hours north of Corondel, and about fixteen fouth of the fpring of 
 Mofes, is a part of the mountain to the weft call'd Le Marah, and towards 
 the fea is a fait well call'd Birhammer, fo that this is probably the place ; 
 five or fix hours a day being a fufEcient march with women and children, 
 when they faw their enemies drown'd, and were in no fear, and in fearch 
 of water, which they could not find. They removed from Marah, and 
 came unto Elim, and in Elim were twelve fountains of water, and three- 
 fcore and ten palm-trees. About four hours fouth of Lc Marah is the win- 
 ter torrent of Corondel, in a very narrow valley, full of tamarisk-trees, 
 fome palm-trees, and there is tolerable water about half a mile weft of 
 the road. Beyond this about half an hour, is the winter torrent call'd Dieh- 
 Salmeh, and an hour or two further is the valley or torrent of Wouffet, 
 where there are feveral fprings of water that are a little fait. I am inclined 
 to think that one of them, but rather Corondel, is Elim, becaufe it is faid 
 afterwards they removed from Elim, and encamped at the Red fea; and the 
 way from Corondel to go to the valley of Baharum is part of it near the fea, 
 where I was inform'd there was good water, and fo probably the Ifraelites 
 encamp'd there. If the Ifraelites had encamp'd at Tor, which many would 
 have to be Elim, near the well of frefh water, which is no more than 
 half a league from the fea, and almoft within the view of it, it would 
 
 hardly 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 hardly have been faid that they went afterwards and encamp'd at the Red 
 fea ; and the fait waters there, call'd The fprings and baths of Mofes, are 
 not a mile from the fea. Suppofing then Corondel to be Elim, it is pro- 
 bable they went 'this way by the fea into a long valley, (which may be 
 the defert of Sin) that extends away to Tor, and to the fouth to the fea, 
 being about two or three leagues wide in fome parts, and is between two 
 ranges of hills, one to the eaft, the other to the weft, towards the fea ; 
 and it is not improbable that the children of Ilrael fhould encamp about 
 Tor, where there is good water ; and this might give occafion for the name 
 of thofe fprings. 'Twas in the wildernefs of Sin that God gave them 
 Manna. From Tor one goes eaft to the valley of Hebran, which is a win- 
 ter torrent between high hills. There are feveral fprings in it of excellent 
 water, and I faw there two wells. This probably is Dophkah, where the 
 Ifraelites encamp'd when they took their journey out of the wildernefs of 
 Sin, Numbers xxxiii. 12. From this valley the road is over the mountains 
 to the eaft, into the pleafant valley of Bouerah, about half a mile broad, 
 between high hills. There was water near it, but having fail'd, the Arabs 
 have left thofe parts. This probably is Alufh, where they encamped when 
 they departed from Dophkah, Numbers xxxiii. 13. From this place the 
 road is over a height between the mountains, and leads into the valley of 
 Rahah, part of .the fuppofed defert of Sinai. From the defert of Sinai, 
 they went into the defert of Zin, which feems to be a general appellation 
 for a great extent of defert and hills ; and Kadefh and Paran are ufed pro- 
 mifcuoufly for the fame defert, Numbers x. 12. Numbers xx. r. Numbers 
 xxxiii. 3 6. but notwithstanding it is probable that different parts of it were 
 call'd more efpecially by thefe names. Paran feems to have been to the 
 fouth, about the hill they now call Pharan, and a winter torrent of the 
 fame name, which are to the fouth weft. To this part the Ifraelites went, 
 when they came to the defert of Sinai ; and when they return'd fromEzion- 
 geber into the defert of Zin, we find them at Kadefh, which feems to have 
 been a particular part of the defert of Paran to the eaft, Numbers xiii. 26. 
 where Mofes ftruck a rock a fecond time, and the water flow'd out. This is 
 fuppofed to be eight hours north or north north weft of Mount Sinai ; and 
 to this part the fpies return'd from viewing the promifed land. It is pro- 
 bable Tebel Te is Mount Hor, which extends near to Elana, fuppofed to be 
 Ailath ; to the fouth eaft of which Ezion-geber feems to have been, the 
 plains of that place being mention d after thofe of Ailath, when the chil- 
 dren of Ifrael journey 'd towards the promifed land ; and when theyturn'd 
 back again, it is faid that they came into the wildernefs of Zin, which is 
 Kadefh ; as probably all the defert had that name to the weft of the eaftern 
 gulf of the Red fea. It is then faid they removed from Kadefh, and 
 pitch'd in Mount Hor. This feems to be in their return again towards the 
 promifed land f ; fo that Mount Hor muft have been near Kadefh, and 
 near Ezion-geber. Mount Seir alfo is mention'd, and their encompafling 
 that mountain, that is going to the weft, fouth, and eaft of it ; and I think 
 it may be doubted whether this was a general denomination for feveral 
 mountains, or one ridge of mountains ; and if the latter, whether it might 
 not be the fame as Mount Hor, fo call'd from the Horims, who were 
 the firft inhabitants of it, and were fucceeded by the children of Efau g , 
 
 f Deuteronom. ii. 8. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 s Deuteronom. ii. 12. 
 
 S s 
 
 who 
 
IS 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 who coming there, it might have from him the name of Seir, which fig- 
 nifies Hairy; and fo be call'd fometimes Hor, and at other times Seir. 
 
 C H A P. V. 
 
 From Mount Sinai to Suez, Grand Cairo, Ro- 
 se tto, and Alexandria. 
 
 N Eafter funday in the evening, I was defired to meet the fathers 
 \_J in the great church of the convent of Mount Sinai, where they be- 
 gun a form of chanting and praying for our fafe journey to Cairo, 
 repeating the fame ceremony all round the fix and twenty chapels in the 
 convent. The fuperior invited me to fup at his chamber, and prefented 
 me with views of the convent; this being a certain form they go through 
 with all pilgrims, the fuperior fupplying the place of the archbifhop. I 
 made him, as ufual, a prefent in money, and to the priefts, deacons, offi- 
 cers, and to all the convent, a fmall fum, vifiting many of them ; and fe- 
 veral came to fee me, and brought me prefents of natural curiofities of 
 the Red fea, and of the country about, as they obferved I made collections 
 Departure j n t } lat wa y_ The next day, the twenty-third of April, after having been 
 enc. at the church and the chapel of The holy bufh, the fuperior and many of 
 the convent went with me to the window, where I took leave of them, 
 was let down, and began my journey towardsCairo. We went only two hours 
 , that day, the Arabs not having every thing ready for their camels. On 
 the twenty-fourth we went in the fame way we came. We foon de- 
 fended the valley where they fay the convent was firft defign'd; and turn- 
 ing to the weft in the other valley we came in, after travelling about a 
 mile, we turn'd out of that road to the north, afcending the fandy val- 
 lies between very low hills, call'd Jebel Lefany. I faw the houfes the Arabs 
 had built for their corn, but they had left the place for want of water. We 
 came into a large plain call'd Waad Aie, from whence the road goes to 
 the convent of Paran. They told me that the part of the defert towards 
 the convent was very much infefted with a large yellow hornet, call'd 
 Dembeh, that ftings the beafts as well as men, and caufes a very trouble- 
 fome fwelling for five or fix days, if they do not apply a white earth and 
 vinegar. PolFibly the village of Pharan, mention'd by Ptolemy, might be 
 in this place. Near it is the fmall high hill of Pharan, or Paran, which is 
 fo often mention'd in the old teftament, that we may conclude the chil- 
 dren of Ifrael encamp'd there for a confiderable time ; fo that in this great 
 promontory between the two gulfs, Sarracene feems to have been to the 
 weft and north, the Pharamita? to the eaft and fouth, and polfibly Muni- 
 chiatis h might be in the middle between them. Purfuing our journey, we 
 paffed by a hill call'd Laifh ; and in the evening a prieft of the convent 
 going to Cairo overtook us. On the twenty- fifth we paffed through the 
 valley of Bareach, where I faw two or three infcriptions, and there was 
 rain water preferved in cifterns. Near this place, we came into the road 
 we left going to Tor ; four or five Arabs join'd company with us, and 
 
 » See z. 
 
 we 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 159 
 
 we were molefted by one who pretended to demand a fine becaufe three 
 perfons, as he thought, came together from the convent ; for the Arabs 
 have a law that if three camels depart at the fame time, the convent fhall 
 be obliged to pay thirty piafters ; which I fuppofe is defign'd to prevent any 
 one Arab with feveral camels, monopolizing the whole bufinefs of convey- 
 ing the monks. This day we had a hamfeen wind, but it was not very 
 hot, as it did not come from the fouth weft. On the twenty-fixth we 
 came to Jebel Te, which as I obferved, may be Mount Hor, where Aaron 
 died. Palling along the valley to the weftward, which is to the fouth of 
 Mount Te, I faw a few letters cut on a ftone, and the figures of two per- 
 fons on horfeback ; and I had feen fuch a one alfo in the valley of Hebran. 
 On the twenty-feventh we came to Corondel, where having unloaded the 
 camels, I went on one of them, with two Arabs, to Pharaoh's baths (Ha- 
 mam Pharaone) of which I have given an account, and return'd again to 
 the caravan before night. On the twenty-ninth in the morning there was 
 a very thick fog, which I had rarely feen in thefe countries ; and palling 
 „ by the fountains of Mofes in the morning, found the waters warm. We 
 arrived at the ferry of Suez, and as it was very hot, I pitch'd my tent, and Return to 
 the Sheik of Naba and feveral Arabs came under the fhelter of it, and took Sucz " 
 the refrefhments of coffee and tobacco. A Tartar of the Pafha's, who 
 was there about the affairs of the cuftom-houfe, and was acquainted with 
 my interpreter, came over with a boat to meet us, and carried us to the 
 other fide. I was under a neceflity of flaying in Suez fome days, to wait 
 for a caravan ; and found the vermin fo troublefome, that I was obliged 
 to lie on the top of the houfe, on the terrace, tho' the dews fell very plen- 
 tifully ; but this was not all, for I was forced to leave my room early in the 
 afternoon, and fit on the terrace, to avoid being annoy 'd ; for though the 
 buggs ufually come out only by night, yet I obferved here that they begun 
 their walks by day. Being left at Suez to take care of myfelf, the Caimacam 
 took me under his protection, for I had occafion to apply to him ; and the 
 caravan being to depart, I join'd company with him, he having been fo 
 obliging as to procure me camels, and to defire me to fend my things to 
 • his houfe; all which favours I ftood in much need of. On the eighth of 
 May, in the evening, we lay with the caravan without the town, and on 
 the ninth we fet out an hour before fun-rife. At the firft entrance into 
 the pilgrims road (Derb-el-Hadjee) to the right of the narrow way be- 
 tween the low hills, I faw a fort of a foffee'towards the eaft fouth eaft ; 
 which poffibly may be the remains of the canal that went to the Red fea. 
 We lay by four hours, about the middle of the day, and afterwards paffed 
 by Der-el-Hammer, where there is a tree cover'd all over with rags, which 
 the pilgrims of Mecca throw on it out of fome fuperftition: This is the 
 place where the caravan for Mecca flops the firft night, after they leave the 
 encampment at the lake. We did not flop till two in the morning on the 
 tenth, and went on again about fun rife ; two hours before we came to 
 the lake of The pilgrims, we paffed by Bir-el-Hammer, where they were 
 finking a well, the old one having been fill'd up. The caravan from 
 Mecca had lately paffed by in their return to Cairo, and we faw fome dead 
 bodies lie ftripp'd in the road ; thefe were people that being fick and 
 fatigued, and flaying behind, died in the road ; and thofe who might 
 pafs afterwards, had the avarice to flrip them, but not the charity to put 
 
 them 
 
i6o OBSERVATIONS 
 
 them into the ground. About noon we arrived at the lake from which 
 the Mecca caravan fets out. I left my interpreter with my baggage, and 
 procuring an afs, went to Cairo with the Caimacam and his father. As 
 we pafted by Sibillallam, the little children brought us cups of water to 
 drink, in order to get fome charity. 
 Arrival at I arrived at Cairo, moft exceffively fatigued and out of order by the 
 Cairo. length of the journey, and the great quantity of water I drank to quench 
 my thirft, it being very hot. I ftay'd about three weeks at Cairo to refrefh 
 myfelf, and as foon as I was a little recover'd, I took leave of my friends, 
 from whom 1 had received very great civilities during my long ftay in 
 Egypt; having been in thefe countries, from the time 1 firft landed to the 
 time I departed, every month in the year except Auguft. 
 Departure On the fourth of June in the evening, many of my friends being fo kind 
 fromCairo. as to accom p an y me to the boat, I departed for Rofetto. When we came 
 into the Rofetto branch our boat was often aground ; the Nile being now 
 at loweft, and they expeded every day to fee it begin to rife. I obferved 
 nothing particular in this voyage, only two canals, of the courfe of which 
 I got the beft information I could. The firft is call'd Towrat Nadir, 
 which paffes through the country call'd Habib to the north, and Menoufieh 
 to the fouth, the city of Menouf being on the north fide of this canal. 
 The other canal is El-Foraftac, which they told me crofted the Delta, 
 north of Mahalla, and runs into the Damiata branch, which muft be un- 
 derftood by the communication it has with other canals, as may be feen 
 in the map. I was inform'd that about Fafara they have a lake where they 
 Arrival at gather much fait. We arrived at Rofetto early on the ninth, and I went 
 oeI °' to the vice-conful's houfe, where I ftaid till the twenty-fecond, to have an 
 account that the houfes were open'd at Alexandria, after it was free from 
 the plague. I fet out in the evening in a chaife, and came to the Madea, or 
 ferry. We repofed a while at the cane, and about midnight crofted the 
 ferry, over the mouth of the old Canopic branch. I was inform'd that 
 the water here is frefh at the time of the high Nile, when doubtlefs it over- 
 flows the canals that are choak'd up ; this lake not having any communi- 
 cation with the canal of Alexandria : I came to that city, and review'd al- 
 moft every thing I had feen before, and on the third of July embark'd on 
 board an Englifh fhip for the ifle of Candia, the antient Crete. 
 
 A D E S C R I- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 O F 
 
 The EAST, &c. 
 
 BOOK IV. 
 
 Of the Government, Cuftoms, and Natural 
 hiftory of Egypt. 
 
 chap. I. 
 
 Of the Government of Egypt. 
 
 EGYPT is divided into three parts; upper, lower, and middle Egypt. Divifion of 
 Thefe are again fubdivided into provinces, govern'd either by San- Egi,pl: ' 
 giaks, call'd alfo Beys, or by Cafhifs. Thofe that are under the 
 former are call'd Sangialics ,• but where any are dependant on a Sangiak, 
 and are govern'd by a Cafhif, one that is not a Bey, they are call'd Ca- 
 fhiflics. 
 
 A Sangiak is a governor, under whofe ftandard or fangiak all the mili- 
 tary men of the province were obliged to rank themfelves, whenever they 
 were pleafed to fummon them. 
 
 The prefent divifion of the country, according as 'tis confider'd in the 
 divan, is the antient divifion, being formerly divided into Delta below, 
 the Thebaid above, and Heptanomis in the middle part, fo call'd from 
 confining of feven provinces. But travellers commonly divide it into i'.pper 
 and lower Egypt. Lower Egypt is all the country fouth of Cairo, in which 
 there are fix Sangialics or Cafhiflics ; two of them in Delta are Garbieh 
 to the north weft, and Menoufieh to the fouth and fouth eaft. On the 
 weft is Baheira, under which is the Cafhiflic of Terrane. To the eaft are 
 Baalbeis, and Manfoura, which I think is call'd Dequahalie, and I have 
 fince been inform'd Kalioub is a fixth. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 In 
 
16a OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Middle part j n middle Egypt on the eaft is only Atfieh. On the weft are Gize, 
 Faiume, Benefuief, Minio, and as it is faid, Archemounain and Manfa- 
 louth, tliongh I apprehend the latter is under the Bey of Girge; and if 
 fo, muft be reckon'd a part of upper Egypt, and the other belongs to 
 Mecca, and fo is in a manner a diftindt fort of principality from the other 
 governments. The firft I mention'd, Gize, always belongs to the Tefter- 
 dar, or lord high treafurer of Egypt. 
 
 Upper E- j n upper Egypt there were formerly twenty-four provinces, but many 
 of them are now fwallow'd up by Arab Sheiks, fo that on the weft fide 
 I could hear of none but Girge, Efne, and Manfalouth, though Abou- 
 tig, Tome, Hou, and alfo Bardis, Furfhout, and Badjoura, have been 
 mentioned as fuch ; which latter, and I fuppofe moft of the others have 
 of late years come under the government of Arab Sheiks. On the eaft 
 fide is Sciout, and I think Ibrim to the eaft and weft. Eloua alio is a 
 Cafhiflic, which is the moft fouthern Oafis, where I have heard, they 
 have fome particular laws and cuftoms ; one efpecially, that a ftranger 
 cannot ftay there above three days. Akmim, Kenna, Cous, and Luxe- 
 rein, have been alfo reckon'd as Cafhiflics, which now feem to be loft 
 
 Arab go- under the Arab government; the greater part of that country being under 
 
 vcrnment. t jj e £ £ ve Arabian Sheiks: On the weft the Sheik of Aboutig, who alfo 
 has part of his territory on the eaft; the Sheik of Bardis, near Girge, 
 who has a very fmall territory there, and a larger about Cous and Luxe- 
 rein ; the Sheik of Furfhout, whofe territory extends on the weft, near 
 as far as the cataracts, and has alfo a country on the eaft, beyond that of 
 the Sheik of Bardis ; on the eaft the Emir of Akmim, who has a large 
 country alfo on the weft ; a Sheik who refides at Elbanaut, and has a 
 fmall territory about Kepht, and is the brother of the Sheik of Furfhout ; 
 and then the country before mention'd of the Sheik of Bardis. The 
 country on the eaft is moftly in the poffeflion of Arabs, that are not 
 under any regular government, fo that as I obferved, there is but one pro- 
 vince under a Cafhif, as well as I could be informed, which is Sciout ; 
 and the Cafhif of Ibrim, both on the eaft and weft above the firft ca- 
 taradt. Thefe Arab Sheiks are fucceeded by their fons, but they muft be con- 
 firm'd by the Pafha, who on that account receives very great funis on the 
 death of a Sheik, and delays confirming the next heir till the money is 
 depofited ; and in this interval, the relations of the Sheik are fometimes 
 carrying on intrigues to fupplant one another. But it is faid that the 
 Pafha muft confirm fuch a perfon as is agreeable to the Divan and 
 country. 
 
 p a 0ia. All Egypt, on the part of the Grand Signor, is govern'd by a Pafha, 
 
 who having in reality but very little power, his bufinefs feems chiefly to 
 confift in communicating to his Divan of Beys, and to the Divans of the 
 feveral military Ogiaks, that is, their bodies, the orders of the Grand Sig- 
 nor ; and to fee that they be executed by the proper officers. If he farms 
 the country of the Grand Signor, the fines belong to him, that are paid 
 when any life drops on the lands; for originally all the lands of Egypt be- 
 long'd to the Grand Signor, and the Porte looks on them at this time as 
 their own. But the Grand Signor's power being loft, they now go to the 
 next heir, who muft be invefted by the Pafha, and he is glad to com- 
 pound for a fmall fum, with regard to the value of the lands. The Pa- 
 fha, 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 163 
 
 flia, in order to execute his office properly, muft keep up as good an in- 
 tereft as poffible with the perfons of the greateft power, efpecially with 
 one man, who happens to be in greateft credit, and with the leading men 
 of the military bodies, to watch their defigns; and if he finds them pre- 
 judicial to the Porte, to foment divifions amongft them, and if he can- 
 not obtain his ends, however to make the beft party he can, and be 
 ever laying fchemes to bring about his defigns. He muft find out the 
 propereft means to cut off thofe he perceives are too afpiring, though it 
 will certainly end in his own depofition, about which he need not be very 
 folicitous, as his perfon is always held facred, and as his removal will 
 be a fure ftep to a more profitable employment. As to the orders of the 
 Grand Signor, his bufinefs is not very great, becaufe they will not fuffer 
 any orders to be executed contrary to their intereft ; and therefore very 
 few are fent that are difagreeable to them. If he has a good intereft with 
 the perfon in chief credit, and with the leading men of the military bodies, 
 and they attempt nothing againft the Porte, and the Porte leaves every thing 
 without innovations, the office of Pafha is very eafy. If he is to create 
 divifions, he and his Caia ought to be men of parts to manage intrigue, 
 and to employ fit inftruments to bring about their ends ; and if it is necef- 
 fary to cut off Ibme leading men, money muft be well and liberally ap- 
 plied, to engage perfons leaft fufpedted, to adt with the utmoft fecrecy and 
 treachery. And it fometimes happens that when a Pafha has cut off 
 one party, he manages fo as to cut off the leading men of that very op- 
 pofite party, who affifted him to deftroy the other. 
 
 If one might conjecture at the original of a Sheik Belief, or head of Sheik Beta, 
 the city, who is appointed by the Pafha, one may imagine either that 
 he anfwers to fuch an officer of the Arabs, during the Mamaluke govern- 
 ment; or that the people at fome time or other might require the Porte 
 to nominate fuch a Bey, as might be agreeable to them, to be their head, 
 and take care of their interefts; a perfon himfelf, if in credit, of the 
 greateft intereft, and is then in reality, Lord over all the land of Egypt ; 
 and he afts with the greateft prudence, when he makes himfelf efteem'd 
 and rever'd by the other leading men, keeps up a very good correfpon- 
 dence with the Porte, prevents any innovations that may be attempt- 
 ed contrary to the intereft of it, takes care that they fend no orders 
 that may encroach on the liberties the country enjoys, and if any tu- 
 mults happen to rife againft the orders of the Porte, to endeavour to 
 palliate them, as well as poffible, at Conftantinople, that no more may be 
 heard of them ; and in general to take care that nothing be done either 
 at home or abroad that relates to his country, without being communi- 
 cated to him, or without his advice. But in reality, all his power de- 
 pends on maintaining his credit, and not barely on his office; for the go- 
 vernment of Egypt is of fuch a nature, that other perfons have often the 
 greateft influence; fometimes a Caia of the janizaries orAzabs, and even 
 fometimes one ot their meaneft officers, an Oda Bafha; and whoever 
 by his parts and abilities can gain fuch authority, and make himfelf the 
 idol of the people, to his levee all the great men go, and whatever he fays 
 is a law with them. 
 
 As upper Egypt is under fuch powerful Arabian Sheiks, fo it is necef- Government 
 fary to fend a Sangiak to govern that country, and to colle£t the tributes °^ c e9 " E " 
 
 due 
 
1 64 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 due from them, and from the Cafhifs under him. This governor refidcs 
 at Girge, with his officers, almoft in as much ftate as a Pafha, has his 
 Divan; and detachments from the military bodies refide there. He is named 
 yearly by the Divan at Cairo, but commonly continues in for three years. 
 Conffitution Hiftorians give us an account, that Sultan Selim utterly deftroyed the 
 ° gypc ' Mamalukes, when he conquer'd Egypt. He might leave them the lame form 
 of government they had before, but probably 'twas only a fhadow of a 
 government: As he feems to have introduced the government of provinces, 
 as in other parts of his dominions ; fo it is probable that he made Beys of 
 his own creatures, and that Cafhifs were fent into all parts that were at- 
 tach'd to him, and had no intereft in the country. It is poflible thefe 
 Beys might come in length of time to be fucceeded by their ilavcs they 
 had advanced to offices; and fo the Beys at length might all have been 
 flaves. And thus it might approach nearer to the Mamaluke government; 
 notwithftanding the Beys at firft feem not to have had any great power; 
 but the military bodies, particularly the janizaries and Azabs, growing 
 powerful, might begin to attempt fome innovations in the government; 
 for in a lift of Pafhas, we find every thing went on very quietly till the 
 year one thoufand fix hundred and two, when a Pafha was maffacred; 
 and twenty-eight years after, the military bodies depofed a Pafha, which 
 is the only inftance of the kind, from the time of Sultan Selim to the 
 year one thoufand fix hundred and feventy-three ; though it is faid of 
 late years, they have often been obliged by the foldiery to defcend from 
 the caftle; and it is faid by their capitulations with Sultan Selim, they 
 have a power to remove the Pafha. 
 
 It is probable that the Porte perceiving the military bodies grew too pow- 
 erful, were well pleafed to fell the villages to the leading men among them; 
 whereas formerly they would not purchafe, that they might not fubjecr. 
 themfelves to the Beys, to whom they now pay court ; the Beys, as gover- 
 nors of the provinces, having an abfolute power over their villages. And 
 now the Porte can manage better ,- for the power being in the hands of the 
 Beys, if they grow dangerous, it is more eafy to cut them off, without 
 creating any difturbances among the people; whereas any injury offered 
 to a leading man among the military bodies, might ftir up the refentment 
 of the whole body, and be of dangerous confequence. The prefent fuc- 
 ceffion of the Beys, as they are not entirely attach'd to the Porte, is better 
 than il it was hereditary, for the Hafnadar or treafurer of a Bey, or fome 
 other \>reat officer or Caffiif, that was flave to the deceafed Bey, marrying 
 the si ;dow, is obliged to give up a great part of the eftate to make himfelt 
 friends, and fecure his fucceffion; which keeps very great eftates from 
 fettling in one perfon. But the Porte feems to have been much miftaken 
 in their meafures to fecure the fubjection of Egypt ; one great means 
 would have been to have conftantly changed the military bodies every 
 year, and not let them fettle and have a fucceffion ot natives of the 
 country; and then to have had Beys always Turks and creatures of their 
 own; and chiefly to have ftriclly prohibited the importation of Haves into 
 Egypt, they being the ftrength of the prefent government againft the Porte ; 
 for a great man having given his flaves liberty, they are firft made Cai- 
 macams, afterwards Cafhifs, and then begin to purchafe other flaves ; and 
 at length to give them liberty, and all are dependant on the firft great 
 
 mafter. 
 
ON EGYPT. 165 
 
 mafter. And the Porte is fo fenfible, they ought to have a greater 
 influence over the military bodies, that they have frequently attempted 
 to fend an Aga of the janizaries yearly from Conftantinople, in order to 
 have an abfolute power over the country; but both the military bodies 
 and the Beys have always oppofed it. 
 
 The Paiha has a Caia, a Bey pro tempore by his office, who is his 
 prime minifter, and generally holds the Divan ; the Pafha, like the Grand 
 Signor, fitting behind a lattife in a room at the end of the Divan, rarely 
 aflifting himlell, unlefs it be on any extraordinary occafion; as reading 
 fome order from the Porte, or the like. One of the great officers that 
 always attends the Pafha when he goes out, is the Dragoman Aga, who 
 is not only an interpreter, but more efpecially afls as mafter of the cere- 
 monies. The Pafha has, like the Grand Signor, his Choufes, Shatirs, 
 Boftangees, and a horfe guard of Tartars, on whom he would chiefly 
 depend, both for his fafety, if at any time there were any danger, and 
 alfo in fending all his difpatches. 
 
 The Emir Hadge, or Prince of the pilgrims that go to Mecca, is named Emir Hadge. 
 yearly from Conftantinople, and generally continues in the office two 
 years, to make amends for the great expence he is at the firft year for his 
 equipage ; but if he is a perfon of capacity, and has an intereft at the Porte, 
 he may be continued longer, tho' rarely more than fix years; for if they 
 conduct the caravan feven years, the Grand Signor prefents them with a col- 
 lar of gold ; and it is faid that their perfons are efteemed facred, and they 
 cannot be publickly cut off. This officer has command over the eftates 
 that belong to Mecca, and fends his Sardars to govern them. The per- 
 quifites of his office, befides what he is allowed by the Porte, confift in 
 having a tenth of the effects of all pilgrims who die in the journey. And 
 if this great officer behaves himfelf well during his adminiftration, it 
 procures him the general efteem and affection of the whole country. 
 
 The Tefterdar or lord high treafurer of the tribute paid out of the Teferdar: 
 lands to the Grand Signor, is named for a year by the Porte, but is ge- 
 nerally continued in for many years. This office is fometimes given to 
 one of the pooreft Beys, to enable him to fupport his dignity ; and fre- 
 quently to a quiet Bey, who will enter into no intrigues; for one party 
 would not care that a fUrring man of the oppofite party fhould be invefted 
 with this office, which is of great dignity. 
 
 Cairo is under the guard of the janizaries. Old Cairo is guarded by a Guards of 
 Bey who refides there, and is changed every month ; fo likewife is the coun- and 
 try north of Cairo, calPd Adalia ; and the Azabs have the charge of the 
 country round the city. An officer patroles about the city, more efpe- 
 cially by night, who is cali'd the Walla, anfwering to the Turkifh officer Walla, 
 called Soubafha ; he takes up all perfons he finds committing any difor- 
 ders, or that cannot give an account of themfelves, or that walk in the 
 ftreets at irregular hours, and often has their heads cut off on the fpot, 
 if they are not under the protection of the janizaries, or of any of 
 the military bodies. As he is the terror of rogues, fo for prefents made 
 to him, he is often their protector ; and without thofe prefents they are 
 fure to be cut off ; and to him the great men fend for any villains that 
 have render'd themfelves obnoxious to them, and they are fure to have 
 them deliver'd. Another officer is the Meteflib, who has the care of 
 Vol. I. U u all 
 
i66 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 all weights and meafures, and to fee that every thing is made juftly ac- 
 cording to them. 
 
 Government There is a Caimacam in every great village, who is under the Cafhif, 
 of villages. an( j mav ] iave eight or ten, or more fmall villages under him, each of 
 which have in them a Sheik-Bellet, either a native Egyptian, or an Arab, 
 where the Arabs are fettled ; and thefe Caimacams, as well as the Cafhif, 
 have to manage with the Sheik Arabs, who in many parts, have the real 
 power; and the Cafhif governs by making a leading Sheik Arab his friend 
 by prefents and management. All the annual officers are appointed by 
 the Divan, on the twenty-ninth day of Auguft, being the firft day of the 
 Coptic year ; and the chief bufinefs of all thefe governors, befides keeping 
 the country in order, is to get in the money for the Grand Signor, and 
 more efpecially for themfelves. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 Of the Military bodies in Egypt. 
 
 Spahis. HERE are five bodies of Spahis, or horfe, in Egypt ; the two prin- 
 
 J_ cipal are the Chaoufes and the Muteferrika, who were originally the 
 guards of the Sultans of Egypt, and their leaders were his two Viziers, 
 that always accompanied him ; the Choufler-Caiafi on his right hand, and 
 the Muteferrika-Bafhee on his left, and now they always go out with the 
 Pafha. The body of Chaoufes feem originally to have been the guard out 
 of which the Sultan ufed to fend perfons to execute his orders ; for the 
 Grand Signor has a body of Chaoufes for that purpofe, but they are not 
 reckon'd among the Spahis. The Muteferrika are in themfelves of the 
 greateft dignity, which that word implies, fignifying The chofen people; be- 
 ing generally perfons of fome diftinftion, and the Grand Signor has a guard 
 of this name, that are not in the body of the Spahis. Here they are fent 
 to garrifon caftles ; and at prefent are in the caftles of Adjeroute and Yem- 
 bo, in the way to Mecca. 'Tis not improbable that they begun to fend 
 them into thefe garrifons, when the Circaffian Mamalukes or flaves had 
 drove out the firft Mamaluke fucceffion of Kings, which were of the Tur- 
 coman fiaves call'd Bahariah, who originally were fent to guard the for- 
 treffes on the fea coaft, as the Circaffians were fent to the inland garrifons, 
 and were alfo the guards of the feraglio of the Sultans. Thefe Circaffians 
 feem to have been originally the third body of Spahis, call'd Cercafi, the 
 other two are the Giomelu and the Tufecfi. Thefe three laft have at their 
 head each of them an Aga, and when they have paffed through that of- 
 fice, they are call'd Iftiars or Aftiars, which in all the military bodies, Sig- 
 nifies fuch officers as have paffed through all the degrees of offices of their 
 refpedtive bodies. Thefe compofe the council of their Divan ; and a ftep to 
 this office is firft to be made a Serbajee, or captain. They hold their Divan 
 in the houfe of their Aga, but their bodies are of little intereft. When the 
 Divan of the janizaries or Azabs would have any thing done, they fend a 
 Chous to the Pafha, to have an order for it, which muft not be denied. The 
 order is brought to the Caia in charge, who gives it to the Aga, to put it 
 in execution ; and the Bas-Chous of the janizaries always affifts at the 
 
 Pafha's 
 
ON EGYPT. 167 
 
 Pafha's Divan. The flaves of the officers of the military bodies, when they S,SVM - 
 give them their liberty by ordering them to let their beards grow, become 
 members of that body, and are advanced ; and fo it is really a Mamaluke 
 government thro' every part ; but the flaves are by no means a delpicable 
 people, they are the faireft and moll promifing Chriftian children of 
 Georgia, taken for the tribute, brought here to be fold, and become Ma- 
 hometans. They are well clothed and fed, taught to throw the dart, and 
 fhoot with great dexterity ; and almoft every one of them has a fervant 
 to take care of his horfe, to wait on him, and attend him on foot, near 
 his horfe, when he goes out. And to fay the truth, they are in the hands 
 of very kind mafters, and are as obfervant of them; for of them they are to 
 expedt their liberty, their advancement, and every thing ; fo that a flave 
 behaves himfelf as one that is to become a governor of towns and provin- 
 ces ; and if he has more ambitious views, as one that may come to fuc- 
 ceed his mafter ; and this, as 1 obferved, is the ftrength of the prefent go- 
 vernment againft the Grand Signor. 
 
 What has transferred the power, in a great meafure, from the two mili- 
 tary bodies of the infantry to the Beys, as I obferved, is the leaders of 
 thofe bodies purchafmg lands of the Grand Signor, which obliges them to 
 be fubmiflive to the Beys, that they may not ruin their villages, whereas 
 formerly the military bodies were rich, had a treafure, and an eftate moftly 
 in Cairo, as they have at prefent ; but the revenues of it the Divan divide 
 among themfelves. And when the public body was rich, each particular 
 was poor, and no one would purchafe villages, that he might not be fub- 
 jeft to the Beys, to whofe houfes, at that time, they would not go; and 
 this was what fecured their power, whereas now they have loft that influ- 
 ence, and the liberty they enjoy'd, by fubjefting themfelves. At the time 
 indeed when I was in Egypt, they had a confiderable fhare of power, oc- 
 cafion'd by a wrong policy in the leading man, who, at the fame time that 
 they paid court to him, and the other Beys, thought proper to do nothing 
 Avithout the advice and approbation of the leading Caia among the janiza- 
 ries, in order to eftablifh himfelf. 
 
 By this a Sheik Bellet may continue fomething longer in credit; but it 
 has been found that at length he lofes his power, tho' he maintains his fta- 
 tion ; there being no other true foundation for authority in thefe countries, 
 but a fear which approaches fomething towards a fervile dread of the per- 
 fon that commands. 
 
 As the military bodies, efpecially the foot, which are the janizaries, and Infantry, 
 Azabs, have fo great a fhare in the government, I fhall give a more parti- *^ n conft 
 cular account of them ; for the five bodies of Spahis are little confider'd, 
 but the two bodies of foot, the janizaries and Azabs, have a great influence 
 in all affairs. The janizaries (Jenit-Cheri) which word fignifies the new janizaries, 
 band, confift of a certain number of companies call'd Odas or Chambers, 
 over each of which there is a head call'd Odabafhee. Thefe officers in 
 proceffion, march with Caoukes, or high ftiff turbants, and a fhield flung 
 behind them ; and as the janizaries have the guard of the city, from this 
 office, thofe that are thought fit to be advanced, are put into an office 
 call'd Boabodabafhee, whofe bufinefs it is to walk every day about the prin- 
 cipal parts of the city, with many janizaries to attend him, to keep order, 
 and to fee that all things are regular, even to the drefs. This office is for 
 
 three 
 
 a 
 
i68 
 
 OBSERVATION S 
 
 three months ; he is after advanced to be a Serach, who is a fervant that 
 holds the ftirrup of the Caia of the janizaries in charge, attends him 
 when he goes out on horfeback, and ferves him as a meffenger on all oc- 
 cafions, and has ever after the title of Chous. After he has paffed through 
 this office, he is advanced to the fame office under the Aga of the janiza- 
 ries. He may afterwards be chofen into the number of Choufes, or mef- 
 fengers of the Divan of the janizaries, and is calFd Cuchuk, or little Chous. 
 There is no fix'd time for continuing in thefe offices ; but as a new Chous 
 is made, the others advance a ftep higher. The next degree is Alloy Chous, 
 that is, the Chous of the ceremonies, who has the care and' direction of 
 all proceffions. From this office he is removed to be Petelma, which is 
 fomewhat in nature of a procurator to the whole body, having the care of 
 their effects ; and when any one dies under the protection of this body, he 
 feals up their houfes, to fecure the tenth part, which is due to them out of 
 the effects. After this office he comes to be Bas-Chous, or head Chous, and 
 enters into the Divan, or council of the janizaries, and fo remains in the 
 Divan, with the body of the Choufes. He muft then either go to the war, 
 or with the caravan to Mecca, or with the treafure to Conftantinople, and 
 then he is made Waught Caiafi, or Caia for the time being, that is for a year, 
 who is the judge in all affairs that relate to the body ; but as there are 
 frequently four or five Choufes made in a year, fo a Chous waits a long 
 time before he is advanced to this dignity, as they take it according to their 
 feniority. When he has paffed through this office, he is in the body of 
 Caias, and takes his place as the youngeft, below the reft. The office of 
 Caia is properly a deputy or fteward, one that acts for a perfon or body. 
 The Choufes are like purfuivants at arms, and being always fent by the bo- 
 dy, approach nearer the nature of ambaffadors or envoys; their perfons 
 are held very facred, and they are people of great authority ; and yet thofe 
 in office are always clothed in black, riding on afl'es, and have a particu- 
 lar broad turbant, except the Bas-Chous, who mounts a horfc. 
 Janitzar Aga. The Janitzar Aga, or general of the janizaries, is chofen by the Divan 
 of janizaries, out of what body they pleafe ot the Spahis or horfe, but 
 moft commonly out of the Muteferrika : He has no place in the Divan, 
 and the Bas Caia holds his ftirrup when he mounts. He executes all orders 
 of the Divan that belong to his office ; as in dangerous times, he patroles 
 once a day about the city, and publilhes any orders they think fit fhould 
 be known ; and when he is fent out to guard the city, in time of tumults, 
 or when any revolution is apprehended, he is at fuch times inverted with 
 the whole power or authority of the body of janizaries, can cut off whom 
 he pleafes, without giving any account, or being anfwerable to any one, 
 except that he muft demand of their refpective military bodies, fuch of the 
 foldiery as have render'd themfelves obnoxious. He is always, in thefe 
 cafes, attended by a Chous from each body of the foot ; but as foon as 
 he returns to his refidence in the caftle, his power ceafes. He ought to be 
 put in, as at Conftantinople, by the Grand Signor ; and it feems to be an 
 ufurpation for their own body to nominate him. He is indeed appointed 
 and inverted with that office by the Pafha ; but he is obliged to take fuch 
 a perfon as their own body thinks proper. The Beys have, it is true, iome- 
 times interfered, and managed fo as to get one of their creatures into this 
 office. In Conftantinople they have Serbajees over every chamber ; but 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 here a Serbajee is only an honorary thing, like a brevet colonel. When 
 any detachment is fent to war, or on any other affair, they are under 
 the command of a Sardar, taken from the Caias, whofe office is at an 
 end on his return. He is as a colonel of a detach'd body ; the name be- 
 ing derived from the Perfian word Sar, which fignifies a head or chief. 
 He has his deputy, call'd Jemac, and two Sabederiks, or fecretaries. This 
 body, thus detach'd, is call'd a Bouluke ; but the whole body of janiza- 
 ries in general, and their Divan, is call'd The Ogiak of the janizaries. 
 Both thefe and the Azabs have their Divan at the caftle, at their refpective 
 gates, call'd The gates of the janizaries, and of the Azabs. 
 
 Azab fignifies an unmarried perfon, and was a new recruit of young 
 fingle men added to the janizaries, and became a diftindt body. They 
 have been great rivals with the janizaries in Egypt, and fometimes the Azabs 
 have got the better, as in the tumult in the year one thou/and feven hundred 
 and fifteen ; but now the janizaries have the upper hand, notwithftanding 
 fome of the Caias of the Azabs are men of great intereft. Their inftitution 
 and officers are the fame as thofe defcribed of the janizaries ; only from 
 Odabafhees they are made Serbajees, and from that office Caias, and come 
 into the Divan ; whereas if they go through thofe other offices of Seraches 
 and Choufes, they never are advanced to be Caias, nor have they the office 
 of Boabodabafhee, which regards the government of the city, with which 
 they have nothing to do. On the contrary, among the janizaries, when 
 any one is made a Serbajee, 'tis laying him afide, and he is no further ad- 
 vanced. 
 
 Thefe two bodies are the great protectors of the people, and by their 
 Waught Caia, all things regarding thofe under their protection, are judged, 
 and almoft all the people are incorporated into one or other of them. 
 And if they apprehend that they are wrong'd by one body, they fly to the 
 protection of the other, and become a member of it ; which often occa- 
 fions great broils. Thus they make themfelves independent of thePafha, 
 and every body ; have their Bas-Chous always in the Divan of the Paflia ; 
 and, if occafion requires, their Bas-Caia, to oppofe any thing as they think 
 proper. And when any orders are fent to little Divans from the Grand 
 Signor, by means of the Palha, if they are difpleafing to them, they return 
 them unexecuted. And thefe two bodies have ufurp'd a power of depo- 
 fing the Pafha, by fending a Bas-Chous from each body, who, turning up 
 the corner of his carpet, pronounces thefe words, In Pafha ; that is, Defcend, 
 Pafha : And if he afks the reafon, they tell him. And then he defcends, 
 an honourable prifoner to a houfe prepared for him, and the Beys name a 
 Caimacam out of their own body to govern, until the Grand Signor fends 
 another Pafha. And when the Pafha is out of place, they always oblige 
 him to pay the expences they were at on account of his public entry. There 
 is this difference between the tumults here and thofe at Conftantinople, 
 that the latter are commonly begun by fome refolute fellows among the 
 janizaries, whereas here the mob is generally raifed by fome great man, 
 who envies one that is a rival to him ; for as long as the Cairiotes are 
 poor and weaken'd by former divifions, they are quiet, but when they 
 grow rich and great, they envy one another, and fo fall into divifions ; 
 which is only avoided by a prudent perfon's having the fway, who either 
 makes all the other great men his friends, and adjufts all differences be- 
 Vol. I. X x tween 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 tween them, or rather has fufficient power to make every body fear 
 him. 
 
 The janizaries in Conftantinople have no Divan, but the Janitzer Aga 
 enters the great Divan, and receives his orders from the Grand Vizier ; and 
 moreover they have not the body of Azabs in Conftantinople. The janiza- 
 ries alfo here have different offices, by which they riie to the higheft de- 
 gree ; and every janizary has a great power, which is ufurped ; and 
 if they iind any roguery among the common people, they give them the 
 baftinado, without any further ceremony, and there is no remedy for 
 thofe who have no money; and when they are going to war, they are 
 lords of the property of every one ; infomuch that a ftop is put to all 
 trade, the fliops are fhut, and there is no fecurity but in keeping out of 
 the way ; for of all the foldiers in the Grand Signor's dominions, thofe 
 of Cairo are moft infolent and injurious. Egypt is obliged to furnifh the 
 Grand Signor with three thoufand foldiers every three years, if he de- 
 mands them; twelve hundred janizaries, nine hundred Azabs, and nine 
 hundred Spahi ; or if the Grand Signor fends them back, he can demand 
 a frefh fupply every year. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of the Adminiftration of juftice, Public revenues, Trade and 
 Manufactures of Egypt. 
 
 CadiUskier. "JUSTICE is adminiftred in Egypt almoft in the fame manner as in 
 I other parts of Turkey. A Cadilifkier, like a lord high chancellor, is 
 ient yearly from Conftantinople to Grand Cairo, to whom they may appeal 
 from the Cadis ;• and many caufes of importance in Cairo go immedi- 
 ately before him. He has his deputy, call'd Nakih, and his houfe is the 
 place of juftice. There are in Cairo alfo eight Cadis in different parts, 
 and in every ward there is an officer call'd Kabani, who is fomething like 
 a public k notary ; for by him all obligations that are valid are drawn. He 
 islikewhc a public weigh-mafter, by whom every thing ought to be weigh'd. 
 
 The city is divided into as many parts almoft as ftreets, which civihons 
 have gates to them, kept by porters, who fhut them up at night ; and 
 to every ftreet where Chriftians or Jews live, there is a guard of janiza- 
 ries, who were firft appointed to prevent the felling of ipirhuous liquors. 
 A Cadi is fent yearly from Conftantinople to Alexandria, Rofetto, Da- 
 miata, and Gize ; but the Cadilifkier fends them from Cairo to moft other 
 towns; for the law is much ftudied here; which is written in the pureft 
 language, fuch as is fpoken at Damafcus, for that is efteemed the beft. 
 They have a faying, " That the law cuts the fword, but the fvvord cannot 
 " cut the law ;" for the Grand Signor himfelf cannot take off a perfon of 
 the law. But if any great man in that profeffion has render'd himfelf ob- 
 noxious, he orders him a horfe's tail, by which he is made a Pafha, or ge- 
 neral, and then he can fend him a bow ftring; but executions of that 
 kind are never order'd in Egypt, left the people fhould take part with 
 the offender, who is commanded to fome other place to wait his pu- 
 
 niihment. 
 
ON EGYPT. 171 
 
 nifhtnent. As the Mahometan faith is divided into fpeculative and pra- ' 
 <ftical, they ftudy the latter, as it relates to their morals and their laws ; 
 and go through much the fame courfe of ftudy to be officers of their 
 religion, and of their law ; only the moft able men apply to the latter, 
 and more particularly direct their ftudies to the knowledge of the law. 
 But it is to be obferv'd, that in Egypt many caufes are carried before lead- 
 ing men, who abfolutcly decide, evenagainft the fentence of the magi- 
 ftrate; and there is no appeal to be had from them ; and when they do 
 apply to the Cadi, an intereft is often made by leading men, that is not 
 to be refilled. However, bne thing is much to be admir'd, as to the 
 manner of adminiftring juftice, that all caufes are immediately decided as 
 foon as they are brought before them. 
 
 The religious perlbns who have the care of the mofques here, are call'd Sheiks of 
 Sheiks, in Turkifh they are called Imam, which is alfo an' Arab word, Mof,ues ' 
 fignifying, as well as Sheik, a head or chief: They have more or fewer to 
 one mofque, according to it's fize and revenues ; one is head over the reft, 
 who anfwers to a parifh prieft; under him there are Hogis, (readers) and 
 thofe who cry out To prayers ; but in fmall mofques the Sheik does all 
 himfelf. In fuch it is their bufinefs to open the mofque, to cry To prayers, 
 and to begin their fhort devotions at the head of the congregation, who 
 ftand rank and file in great order, and make all their motions together; 
 they alfo generally make an harangue to the people every friday. I have 
 been told fome Sheiks have been advanced to be Cadis, and Cadis are 
 fometimes, when unfit for bufinefs, made Sheiks of mofques, if they de- 
 fire it, that is, if they have not faved fortunes ; for here the Cadis, that 
 are put in by the Cadiiifkier, remain in their office many years. 
 
 The relations of Mahomet, called in Arabic, Sherif or noble, by the Relcom of 
 Turks, Emir or prince, have the priviledge of being exempt from ap- MahonM ' 
 pearing before any judge but their own head, who is himfelf a relation of 
 Mahomet, and is call'd Neckib-el-Efheraf ; and they are fo much efteem'd, 
 that though any one of the military bodies will punifh them, if guilty of 
 any mifdemeanor, yet they firft take off their green turbant, out of re- 
 fpedt to their character, and then fubjecl: them to punifhment as well as 
 any others ; and this is done even when they are punifhed by their own 
 magiftrate. 
 
 The revenues of the Grand Signor, in Egypt, confift of three branches, Revenues of 
 which arife from the lands, the cuftoms, and the poll-tax on Chriftians ^ r rand 
 and Jews. The immenfe riches of the Grand Signor may be eafily col- S °° r 
 ledted, if one confiders that he is abfolute lord of all the lands in his 
 dominions ; and notwithstanding the bad government, all the riches cen- 
 ter in the Grand Signor ; for the little officers opprefs the people ; the 
 great officers fqueeze them ; and out of Egypt, the Pafha all the people 
 under him ; the Pafha himfelf becomes a prey to the great people of 
 the Porte ; and the Grand Signor at laft feizes the riches of the great of- 
 ficers about him. 
 
 All the villages in Egypt pay a certain yearly rent to the Grand Signor, The Rents 
 which is fix'd ; and this is the Hafna or treafure, that is fent every year of Lands ' 
 to Conftantinople. How eafy the rent is, may be concluded from the fum 
 which is raifed, which amounts only to fix thoufand purfes, each of 
 twenty-five thoufand Medines, which is about eighty pounds fterling ; out 
 
 of 
 
 3 
 
1 7a OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of this, corn, flower, oil, and the like are fent yearly to Mecca, and twelve 
 thoufand foldiers are paid, which reduces the treafure to twelve hundred 
 purfes ; out of which they alfo deducT: from fifty to two hundred purfes, 
 according to the pretences they can make, which are moftly with regard to 
 the conveyance of the water of the Nile to their lands; as in opening 
 and cleaning fome great common canals, and repairing fome walls that 
 ferve for keeping up, or turning the waters; and five hundred dollars a 
 month is paid to the Beys. They alfo deduct for the repairs of all caftles ; 
 and great ftores of lugar and fhirbets for the ufe of the Seraglio, and cor- 
 dage for the arfenal, are fent yearly out of this fum; fo that though a 
 Bey and feveral hundred men go every year to guard this treafure to 
 Conftantinople, it does not commonly amount to more than two hundred 
 purges in fpecie. This treafure was ufually fent by fea, but being once 
 taken by the Florentines, they have fince gone by land, taking the other 
 treafures in the way at Damafcus and other places ; it goes under the con- 
 duel of a Bey, and a detachment from each of the military bodies. They 
 return by fea, with the fleet of Alexandria, and have ufurp'd a privi- 
 ledge of bringing what merchandice they pleafe cuftom free. 
 The landed l t feenis as if Egypt was formerly divided into Timars, or knights fees, 
 that is, lands granted for life, on condition of fumifhing fo many men 
 for the war, who were obliged to rank themfelves under the Sangiaks or 
 banners of their province, from whence came the title of Sangiak, for a 
 governour of a province ; but 1 cannot now find any thing of this, and 
 it may be that the extraordinary advance the country gives to the three 
 thoufand foldiers fent once in three years, if the Grand Signor commands 
 them, is in lieu of it. Thefe lands are fold during life, at a fix'd rent, 
 and the money arifing from the fales is commonly given to the Pafha, 
 who pays to the Porte about eight hundred purfes a year for it ; but much 
 roguery is pra&ifed in this, for a great man buys them in the name of 
 a flave, and he has two or more flaves of that name, and often pretends 
 when one dies, that the village was bought in the name of the other. 
 There are lands that belong to Mecca, the revenue of which is received 
 by the Kifler-Aga or black eunuch, who fends a deputy here to manage 
 the revenues of thofe eftates, which are moftly paid in corn, fent to fup- 
 ply the country of Mecca. And as to the Grand Signor's rents or tribute, 
 if the Nile does not rife to fixteen pikes, when the canal at Cairo is cut, 
 they are not fent ; becaufe the confequence of it would be a want of every 
 thing throughout the land of Egypt, and occafion a famine. 
 Curtoms. The fecond branch of the Grand Signor's revenues, are the cuftoms of 
 Egypt. The Ogiak of the janizaries farm all the cuftoms of the Pafha, 
 who takes them of the Grand Sjgnor; and when I was in Egypt, the 
 Grand Signor fending a perfon to take it out of their hands, they managed 
 fo, that it had no effect. The cuftoms are taken by the janizaries at a fix'd 
 price, but thev are often obliged to make an extraordinary prefent to the 
 Pafha. They let them commonly to Jews, but Damiata has been ge- 
 nerally in the hands of Chriltians, 
 
 The cuftoms of Damiata are let for four hundred purfes, and may 
 yield five or fix hundred; the cuftoms of Alexandria, for two hundred 
 and eighty purfes, and produce about four hundred to the farmer. The 
 cuftoms of Bulac the port of Cairo, and of things landed from upper 
 
 Egypt 
 
ON EGYPT. 173 
 
 Egypt at old Cairo, are likewife farm'd ; the cuftoms of Suez may 
 be worth eight hundred purfes, being about twenty-feven fhillings on 
 every bale of coffee ; thefe the Pafha keeps in his own hands, as likewife 
 the merchandices brought from Mecca, which is about half a guinea on 
 every camel. Thofe of upper Egypt are given to the Bey there ; thefe 
 cuftoms arife from a duty of ten per cent on all goods imported, and feven 
 more when they come to Cairo, but the Englifh and French pay only 
 three per cent, inftead of feventeen, which is fettled by treaties with the 
 Porte. The Swedes alfo have lately obtain'd an order for the lame purpofe. 
 The Venetians and Dutch, by reafon of fome debts contracted here, did 
 not fend confuls, and had loft their priviledge, but the Venetians have late- 
 ly regain'd theirs. All perfons pay three per cent for goods exported. 
 
 The other branch of the Grand Signor's revenue in Egypt is the poll- Poll-tax. 
 tax on the Chriftians and Jews, call'd the Harach ; this, till within a few 
 years, was in the hands of the janizaries, who gave eighty purfes a year 
 for it; but an Harach-Aga being fent from Conftantinople, by applying 
 a great fum of money to the leading men, he got pofleffion of the Ha- 
 rach or poll-tax ; and it is faid, he makes of it, for the Grand Signor, 
 eight hundred purfes. Before this, the Chriftians paid but a trifle, by 
 capitulation with Sultan Selim, the fum being only two dollars and three 
 quarters a head ; and this capitulation the Coptis fay they have in their 
 own hands. The great men confented to this, not thinking that it 
 would any way interfere with their interefts, nor confidering that it 
 would drain the kingdom of fo much more money every year ; for now 
 they pay according to their fubftance, either two dollars and three 
 quarters, or five and a half, or eleven, each dollar being about half a crown, 
 for which a certain number of papers are fent yearly from Conftantino- 
 ple, as to other parts; which muft be either return'd, or the money an- 
 fwering to the fums contain'd in them; which papers are given to thofe 
 who pay the tribute, and are their acquittances. The perfons that pay 
 are only men, after they arrive at the age of fixteen. 
 
 As to the trade of Egypt, that which is within itfelf confifts in fupply- Trade of E- 
 ing the lower parts from above, with corn, all forts of pulfe and dates j s?pt ' 
 and the upper parts from Delta, with rice and fait, and from Cairo, all kinds 
 of things imported into Egypt; as upper Egypt has no commerce by the 
 fea, or any other parts that can fupply them with fuch things. Before 
 the way was found to the Eaft Indies, by the cape of Good Hope, Egypt 
 had a great trade, by landing all Indian and Perfian goods at Coffir on 
 the Red fea, bringing them to Kept four days by land, and then carry- 
 ing them to Alexandria, whence they were diftributed all over Europe 
 by the Venetians, which was the great riches of that ftate, which has ever 
 fmce declined. Indian linens, muflins, callicoes and china ware are dearer 
 here than they are in England, being brought a great part of the way 
 by land. The exportation of coffee and rice out of Egypt into any parts Export, 
 out of Turkey, is prohibited, but prefents make all thofe things eafy ; many 
 forts of Indian druggs are exported to Europe, and fome of the growth 
 of this country, which are fenna, caffia, a little coloquintida, and a red 
 dye, call'd faffranoun. They fend flax to Leghorn, and all over Turkey, 
 and cottons to Marfeilles. The import is Englifh, French, and Venetian import, 
 cloth ; filks from Leghorn and Venice, fome druggs and dyes, tin from 
 
 Vol. I. Y y England, 
 
i 7 4 OBSERVATION S 
 
 England, lead and marble blocks from Leghorn, many forts of fmall wares 
 from France, Venice, and Conftantinople, and from the latter furrs, and 
 all forts of copper veffels and plates, which are much ufed, being tinned 
 over. And from Salonica, they bring all their iron in Turkifli fhips, that 
 it may not be carried out of Turkey, which is ftridtly prohibited ; and they 
 bring carpets from Afia Minor, and many things of the woollen manu- 
 facture from Barbary, and raw filks from Syria. They alfo import coral 
 and amber, to be fent to Mecca for toys and ornaments. The manu- 
 Manufa-, failures of Egypt are moftly fpent among themfelves, except linens, of 
 fturel ' which there are great quantities fent to France, Italy, Algiers, and all over 
 Turkey. Their manufactures confift chiefly of three branches, the li- 
 nen, woollen, and filk. The woollen is of un-napped carpets, ufed moft- 
 ly for the feats of Divans, or fophas ; all made with broad ftripes, of diffe- 
 rent colours, and little other variety. Thefe are made at Benefuief, towards 
 upper Egypt, as before obferved. The raw filk is brought to Damiata from 
 Syria : They make of it large handkerchiefs for womens veils, and a 
 very rich fort of handkerchief work'd with gold, and in flowers of feveral 
 colours, ufed likewife on many occafions by the ladies, to throw over 
 prefents they fend to one another; and fometimes they make cufhions and 
 coverings of this fort for the fophas, which are very coftly. In Cairo they 
 manufacture great variety of fattinets and taffetas, many in imitation of 
 thofe of India, but none of them very good. 
 
 The Delta and other parts of Egypt produce a great quantity of flax ; 
 they do not fpin it with a wheel, but letting the fpindle hang down, they 
 draw out the thread from the diftaff, as may be feen in the fifty-ninth 
 plate. Egypt is not now remarkable for its fine linen; which feems to 
 be owing to the little ufe they have for it, becaufe the people of condition 
 wear a fort of muflin, which is much properer for fo hot a climate. What 
 linen they make for wear is exceedingly cheap, and becomes white; it is 
 manufactured chiefly at Rofetto, where they alfo make many ftriped li- 
 nens, ufed moftly about beds, as a defence againft gnats at night. They 
 alfo make of this fort at Cairo and Faiume ,- and at the latter great quan- 
 tities of fackloth brought to Cairo. At Imbabe, oppofite to Cairo, and 
 the villages about it, they make a coarfe ftrong linen ufed for fheets. 
 They have alfo a great manufacture of linens at Sciout, in upper Egypt ; 
 but the very beft linen that is made is about Mahalla in Delta, and Da- 
 miata, efpecially the latter : It is ufed for napkins and towels, and long nar- 
 row clothes thrown round the difh at eating, to be ufed by the guefts. 
 It is a plain well-woven linen, tho' not fine ; but being work'd with a 
 ftriped filk border, fells dear. 
 
 The Turks have chiefly a genius for merchandice, fo that moft arts that 
 require ingenuity, are here generally in the hands of Chriftians ; particu- 
 larly the lilver-fmiths and jewellers, in all parts, which is a great trade 
 here, by reafon of the ornaments of the women, and of the trappings of 
 their horfes ; but they can ufe no plate in their houfes, nor can the Maho- 
 metan men wear a gold ring, according to their law, unlefs they give a 
 tenth of what they are worth to the poor, of which there are hardly any 
 inftances. But it has been faid that fome have thought to evade this law by 
 holding out in their hands a fum of money, for the tenth of what they are 
 worth, to the poor, and alking them what they would take for it ; and fo 
 
 compound 
 
ON EGYPT. i 7 5 
 
 compound with them. The women are very coftly in their golden bracelets, 
 and other ornaments of gold and jewels; becaufe throughout Turkey, as I 
 have been inform'd, if there are children, a woman by the law, after her 
 hufband's death, (unlefs particular donations are made) has nothing but 
 her apparel, which is often fold with her jewels and ornaments of gold, 
 to maintain the poor widow. They have here very curious lattifes for their 
 windows ; which when made with the utmoft art, are very coftly. And 
 before their mofque windows, they have of this fort made of iron and brafs, 
 in the moft perfect manner, being all of round bars let into one another, fo 
 as to be divided into many fmall fquares, and they are embellifh'd with very 
 proper ornaments ; but thefe feem to be remains of the works under the 
 Mamaluke government, when they were very magnificent in their archi- 
 tecture. The Egyptian pebbles are wrought here, and polifh'd in great 
 perfection, for handles of knives and muff-boxes ; and they cannot do it 
 fo cheap in any other parts. It is done in the fame manner as they work 
 precious ftones, with a wheel, and the bufinefs is in the hands of one Jew. 
 They make alfo red leather at Cairo; but the beft is prepared at Alexan- 
 dria, which does not come up to the perfection of the Morocco leather, 
 which is of a brighter red. For all arts, they are reckon'd much inferior 
 here to what they are in Conftantinople, which makes every thing efteem'd 
 that comes from that place. Egypt is famous for Sal Armoniac, which 
 they export, and for hatching chickens in ovens, of which I fhall give an 
 account in the laft book. 
 
 The money that paffes in Egypt is Burbers, Medines, Sequins, and feveral Money, 
 forts of foreign coins, moftly Spanifh. The Burber is a thick piece of 
 copper about as broad as a fix-pence; twelve of them make a Medine, which 
 is of iron filver'd over, about as big as a filver three-pence. Three afpers 
 make alfo a medine, a coin of the fame kind, but they are not made here. 
 They coin two forts of Sequins, one of one hundred and forty-fix Medines, 
 call'd a Funduclee, and a new coin of a hundred and ten Medines, call'd 
 a Zumaboob. They have alfo Barbary Sequins of different value. The 
 bafe money of Conftantinople does not pafs here. A purfe is twenty- 
 five thoufand Medines ; but in other parts of Turkey, it is only twenty 
 thoufand: And where they fpeak of great fums, they always compute by 
 purfes. 
 
 The fmalleft weight is a grain, four of which make a carat, ufed for Weights, 
 weighing diamonds. They have alfo a weight for pearls, call'd a Metacal, 
 which confifts of a carat and a half, or two carats. Sixteen carats make a 
 dram, twelve drams an ounce, twelve ounces a Rotolo, three Rotolos an 
 Oke, and from one hundred to a hundred and fifty Rotolos, a Cantar, or 
 Quintal, according to the goods they weigh. The Rotolo of Alexandria 
 is three hundred and ten drams ; the Englifh pound weight is about two 
 drams more than the common Rotolo. Two hundred and ten Okes make 
 an Adeb of rice of Damiata, one hundred and fifty at Rofetto, which is 
 the meafure for corn, except that it is double in upper Egypt. In other 
 parts of Turkey, fix Okes make a Batman, and forty Batmans a load, (as 
 I fuppofe it muft be,) for a camel, which is about feven hundred and twenty 
 pounds; tho' in Egypt there are camels that will carry a thoufand weight. 
 
 They have two meafures call'd Pikes, the larger is call'd The Pike of Meafure:. 
 Conftantinople, and is about twenty-feven Englifh inches. They meafure 
 
 all 
 
 I 
 
176 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 all foreign gcods with it, except fuch as are made of flax and cotton, for 
 which they ufe the fmall Pike, call'd Pike Belledy, or, The Pike of the 
 country, becaufe they meafure with it all the manufactures of the country. 
 This pike, as I was inform'd, confifts of about twenty-four inches, Englifh 
 meafure. 
 
 Caravans. One great caravan that arrives at Cairo, is of thofe blacks who come 
 from the country near the ifle of Pheafants, and pafs through Fez, Mo- 
 rocco, and Tripoly, and are about eight months on the journey. What 
 they bring is chiefly gold duft. Caravans alfo come from Tunis and Al- 
 giers. Another caravan is of Berberins from Sennar, who bring the goods 
 of Ethiopia, and of feveral parts of Africa, as black flaves, gold duft, ele- 
 phants teeth, gums, oftrich feathers, musk, ambergris, and ebony. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the ftate of Religion in Egypt, its Inhabitants, their 
 
 Policy. 
 
 AS to the ftate of religion in Egypt, the Coptic is that of the native 
 Chriftians of the country. There are many Greeks in Cairo and 
 Damiata, but very few in Alexandria and Rofetto; and in the other 
 parts of Egypt, only fome merchants in the principal towns. There are 
 very few Armenians in Cairo ; but they have a church there- given them 
 by the Coptis, in lieu of a chapel they yielded to them in the church of 
 The holy fepulchre at Jerufalem. The Chriftian religion would be at a 
 very low ebb, if the people did not find it convenient to have Copti 
 ftewards of their eftates, who are well acquainted with all affairs, are very- 
 dextrous at keeping accounts, which they do in a fort of Coptic cha- 
 racters underftood by no body elfe ; and one reafon why they make ufe of 
 them may be, that thefe people are more under their command, and they 
 may have them more in their power, in cale of any breach of truft. 
 Thefe ftewards, in every village, are a fort of lords, and are protectors of 
 the Chriftians in it. 
 
 Coptis. The Coptis, of all the Eafterns, feem to be the moft irreverent and 
 
 carelefs in their devotions. The night before fundays and feftivals, they 
 fpend in their churches, and the holy day in fauntering about, and fitting 
 under their walls in winter, and under fhady trees in fummer. They feem 
 to think that their whole religion confifts in repeating their long fervices, 
 tho' without the leaft devotion, and in ftridtly obferving their numerous 
 fafts. If we except the convents of the deferts of St. Macarius and St. 
 Antony, and one at Efne, the convents are inhabited only by one or two 
 married priefts ; but the patriarch muft be a man that never has been mar- 
 ried, and is taken out of one of thofe convents. They are all exceedingly 
 ignorant, both priefts and people : The former perform the fervice in the 
 Coptic language, by rote, of which they generally underftand very little; 
 but they have books of their liturgy, with the Arabic interpretation. It 
 would make a volume to give an account of all the particular rites of the 
 Alexandrian church. 
 
 Strabo 
 
ON EGYPT. 177 
 
 Strabo " mentions two extraordinary cuftoms among the Egyptians, which ^ umci " 
 the Coptis obferve when their children are about ten years of age ; but neither 
 of them is a religious rite, and they give fome reafons for this practice. The 
 Mahometans likewife in upper Egypt, whom we may fuppofe to be original 
 natives of the country, and confequently their anceftors Chriftians, obferve 
 both thefe cuftoms; and by this feem to be diftinguifh'd from thofe that are 
 not true Egyptians. The Coptis bear an implacable hatred towards the Coptis. 
 Greeks, ever fince the famous affair of preffmg them to receive the coun- 
 cil of Chalcedon ; and when the Greeks got the upper hand, it is faid 
 they treated them with great rigour. They have alfo generally as little re- 
 gard for the Europeans, which proceeds, in a great meafure, from an endea- 
 vour in thofe of the church of Rome to make converts of them. And they 
 rarely diftinguifh between thofe of different religions, but include all un- 
 der the name of Franks. The Jews have one particular cuftom here : As J ews - 
 they were afraid in the times of Paganifm, to drink wine offer'd to idols, 
 it was ufual to have all the wine they drank made by their own people, 
 and feal'd up to be fent to them ; and this cuftom they ftill obferve in all 
 the eaftern parts. They have thirty-fix fynagogues in Cairo, and one in 
 old Cairo, in which they fay the prophet Jeremiah was, as obferved before. 
 There is a particular feci: among them who live by themfelves, and have a 
 feparate fynagogue ; and as the other Jews are remarkable for their eyes, 
 fo they obferve thefe are for their large nofes. They are the antient Ef- 
 fenes, and have now the name of Charaims, from Mekra, the name by 
 which they call the five books of Mofes ; which they ftricTrly obferve, ac- 
 cording to the letter, not receiving any written traditions. It is faid that 
 the others would join with them, but not having obferved the exact 
 rules of the law, with regard to divorces, they think that they live in 
 adultery. 
 
 The Mahometan inhabitants of Egypt are either original natives, in the inhabitants 
 villages call'd Filaws, or they are of the Arab race. The latter are of two grabs' 1 ' 1 ' 
 forts. Thofe from the eaft, moftly on the eaftern fide of the river, and 
 thofe of the weft, call'd Mugrabi, or weftern people, who have come from 
 the parts of Barbary, have different manners and cuftoms from the others, 
 and are rather worfe. Many of the Arabs are fettled in villages, and are 
 honeft people, efpecially in upper Egypt. Thofe who live under tents are 
 call'd Bedoui, fubfifting moftly by the cattle they graze, which are chiefly 
 camels and goats, that feed on fmall fhrubs. Thefe, for the moft part, 
 live on either fide of the Delta, and are alfo much about Mecca. 
 
 The natives of Egypt are now a flothful people, and delight in fitting Cbaraaer 
 ftill, hearing tales, and indeed feem always to have been more fit for tian? yP ~ 
 the quiet life, than for any active fcenes : And this idle manner of living 
 is probably one great reafon of the fruitfulnefs of their invention, with re- 
 gard to their antient Heathen religion, and of their making fo many extra- 
 vagant fables ; out of which the Greeks might take fome of the mod: 
 beautiful, as a foundation for their religion and poetry, and fo they paffed 
 to the Romans. This indolence may be owing to the great heat of the 
 country, that enervates them, and inclines them to the una&ive life. They 
 are alfo malicious and envious to a great degree, which keeps them from 
 
 a TsTO <Je tojv fyiAKpivm jwaAirw sra§' ou/'to~?, to TifiVH*, Kj T« 9->jAE« S/Stpvm. Strabol. XVli. p. 824. 
 srftkV T££tpeiv rot ymuuiva &at£ia. K«* to srtfy- 
 
 Vol. I. Z z uniting 
 
i 7 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 uniting and fetting up for themfelves ; and though they are very ignorant, 
 yet they have a natural cunning and artifice as well as falfhood, and this 
 makes them always fufpicious of travellers, that they want to find trea- 
 fures, and as they fee they do not actually find them, they imagine they 
 can by magic art draw away the money, which they think may lie hid in 
 the earth, being fo ignorant that they cannot otherwife conceive why they 
 fhould come fo far to fee ruins : Which notion of theirs often occafions a 
 traveller much trouble, and fometimes prevents his feeing every thing as 
 he would; they have, however, learnt from the Arabs hofpitality, and 
 fomething of that ftrict virtue of fidelity, in ftanding by thofe that are 
 under their protection. The people of the country are moftly employ 'd 
 in tilling the ground, which is not attended with much labour; but the 
 bringing water to it is often very troublefome. The Arabs love plunder, 
 and the roving fort of life this difpofition leads them to. The bufinefs of 
 attending cattle feems moft fuited to their genius ; they have good horfes, 
 and manage them and their pikes with much addrefs; thofe on foot ufe 
 poles, with which they fence off the fpear, with great art. 
 
 Turks. Another fort of people are thofe they call Turks, in diftindtion from 
 
 the natives of the country and the Arabs ; being thofe who are fent by the 
 Grand Signor, and the Haves, and the governing part that are taken from 
 among them, and their defcendants, and all in general of foreign ex- 
 traction ; thefe are moft covetous of money and defirous of power, and 
 withal moft fubtle and ingenious in carrying on any affair to obtain their 
 ends, moft furprizing things having been managed and brought about 
 by them in Cairo, with the utmoft policy and fecrecy; and thefe di- 
 ftinguifh themfelves from the others by what is ftrictly the Turkifh drefs. 
 
 Demflies. Among the Mahometans, the Dervifhes are a very particular fort of peo- 
 ple, they may be reckon'd of two or three kinds ; thofe that are in con- 
 vents are in a manner a religious order, and live retired, though I fuppofe 
 there are of thefe who travel with feme credit, and return to their con- 
 vents. Some take on them this character, and live with their families and 
 follow their trades; fuch are the dancing Dervifhes at Damafcus, who 
 come once or twice a week to the little convent that is uninhabited, and 
 perform their extraordinary exercifes; thefe alfo feem to be good people; 
 but there is a third fort that travel about the country and beg, or rather 
 oblige every body to give ; for when they found their horn, reprefented 
 at Z. in the fifty-feventh plate, they muft be regarded, fomething .muft 
 be given them, and it is faid they are very bad men ; the two former, and 
 I believe thefe alfo, wear an octagonal badge of white alabafter with a 
 greenifh caft, before on their girdles, reprefented with the horn at a. and 
 they wear a high ftiff cap at O. in the fifty-eighth plate, without any 
 thing round it. The Turcomen wear the fame, a little more pointed, 
 but with a white fafh about it. In Egypt there are few, except thofe that 
 live in convents, and of them only one houfe near Cairo. 
 
 Policy. Having mention'd the refined policy or rather cunning of the governing 
 part of the Egyptians, I fhall give fome inftances of it: It is chiefly em- 
 ploy 'd in bringing about their ends of deftroying one another, when they 
 are divided into parties; for as there are more factions in Egypt than in 
 other parts of Turkey, fo there are more inftances of it here. The manner 
 in which they pafs their time, without reading or much bufinefs, without any 
 
 curiofity 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 curiofity but what relates to their affairs, is the great reafon of it; for 
 they think much, and their thoughts are always employ 'd about their par- 
 ticular interefts. The Pafhas commonly join with that party under-hand 
 which they judge is moll likely to get the better, unlefs when they fet them- 
 felves to deftroy the ftrongeft party, which they think may endanger the 
 Grand Signor's government in Egypt. I fhall mention fome particulars, 
 without inferring the feveral names, which would be of very little import to 
 the reader in this place. Not many years ago, a Pafha being defirous to 
 take off a Bey, and apprehending that he would refufe the coffee brought to 
 him, directed the Have that was to bring the coffee, at the fame time as an- 
 other was to bring the coffee to the Pafha, to make a falfe ftep and let 
 fall the coffee of the Bey, who following the directions he had received, 
 the Pafha defired the Bey to take his coffee, which being a particular ho- 
 nour, the Bey could not refufe it; and drank the coffee without fufpicion, 
 which had poifon purpofely put into it. 
 
 About feven or eight years ago, a defign was form'd by the weaker party 
 to deftroy their enemies, who had raifed themfelves to a moft exorbitant 
 degree of power : The fcheme had been long laid, and above forty perfons 
 in the fecret, many of whom were Haves ; but an opportunity was wanted, 
 as they could not get the perfons all together, againft whom it was defign'd. 
 At length the day came, when all the great perfons were together, and 
 the flaves bringing in the coffee or fhirbet all at the fame time, according to 
 the ufual cuftom, whilft they were drinking it, each Have drew out his 
 weapon and ftabb'd his man; fome few of them indeed, mark'd out for 
 deftruflion, got off wounded, without being kill'd. They took off like- 
 wife a head of a party by another, ftratagem : It was known that this Bey was 
 very defirous to have one of his enemies taken; the plot was therefore laid 
 that they fhould bring in a man before the Bey, fo difguifed, that he fhould 
 not diftinguifh who he was, crying out, that all his enemies might be as that 
 man, taking care to have the Bey inftrudted whom they were bringing to him. 
 They had the policy as they pafs'd, to draw out the bolt of their particu- 
 lar fort of locks, reprefented at f. and d. in the fifty-feventh plate, in fuch 
 manner as that no body might be able to fhut the doors and lock them, 
 either after they had done their bufinefs, or in cafe of any mifcarriage. 
 The perfon was brought in with his hands behind him, as if tied, and a 
 napkin put over his head, as malefadtors commonly have, and by a per- 
 fon dreffed like the patroling officer who takes up fuch people : When he 
 was brought into the room, the Bey alked which was the fellow, when 
 the pretended prifoner prefented a piftol in each hand, faying here he is, 
 and fliot the Bey dead, who was fitting on the fopha in the corner of the 
 room, as the great men ufually place themfelves. 
 
 When I was in Egypt a Pafha was named, who had often conducted 
 the caravan from Damafcus to Mecca ; and having there contracted a friend- 
 fhip with a Bey of Egypt, who had the care of the caravan from Grand 
 Cairo ; it was faid, that he had defired the Bey, in cafe he fhould ever be 
 appointed Pafha of Egypt, to endeavour to ufe all the means he could to 
 prevent his coming, it being a Pafhalic, though of much honour, yet of 
 great expence and little profit. It is faid, when the Grand Signor's order 
 was read in the Divan, appointing this perfon Pafha, this Bey, his friend, 
 had contrived that they fhould ask who this Pafha was, if it was fuch a 
 
 one, 
 
j8o observations 
 
 one, a man of no family, a country man, a Filaw, and that they would 
 not have fuch a perfon come as their Palha. Whether this report was falfe, 
 or whether the ftratagem did not fucceed, I cannot fay, for this Pafha 
 came foon after, and was depofed on this occafion : The Bey he had con- 
 tracted a friendfhip with, was of the faction that had been almoft de- 
 ftroy'd ; and there was reafon to think that the Pafha was in the fecret of 
 a defign to cut off the great men that were uppermoft, who were to be 
 affaffinated going to the Divan. To the firft great man that same, the 
 perfons employed offer'd a petition as he went along the ftreet on horfeback, 
 and continued holding and kiffmg his hand whilft he was reading it, preffing 
 not to be refufed, who taking more than ordinary notice of their earneft- 
 nefs, going to withdraw his hand, they dragged him off his horfe and 
 murder'd him. The party that was to have been deftroy'd drew up fome 
 writing relating to this affair, and carried it to the Pafha to fign it; 
 they look'd upon his refufal as a proof that he was at the bottom of it ; 
 it is faid alfo that his Caia betray 'd him, and therefore they immediately 
 depofed him. 
 
 I fhall mention only one inftance more of their policy, of a private 
 nature. A Mahometan of Cairo, defired to borrow a considerable fum 
 of money of a merchant, who refufing to lend it, he prevail'd with his 
 friend, a Chous (a fort of meffengers, as already obferved, who are fent 
 about affairs, and whofe character is efteemed very facred) to go to the 
 houfe of the merchant, who coming to the Chous to kifs his hand, the 
 Chous took occafion to make off his own large cap as he was coming in, 
 and immediately pretended that the merchant had beat it off ; upon which 
 he thought proper, not only to advance the money, but to give a much 
 greater fum to compromife the affair. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Of the Education, Cuftoms, Drefs, and modern Archi- 
 tecture of Egypt; and of the Caravan to Mecca. 
 
 The Egypti- < ■ » H E education in Egypt is feldom more than to read and write, 
 ducattan' E " J. which the Coptis generally learn, and their manner of keeping ac- 
 counts ; but the Arabs and native Mahometans very rarely can read, ex- 
 cept thofe that have been bred up to the law, or fome employ. The bed 
 education is among the flaves, who underftand Arabic and Turkifh, and 
 often write both, and go through their exercifes conftantly ; to ride, fhoot, 
 and throw the dart well, being efteemed great accomplifhments. The 
 Notion of kgi; e f f predeftination is very ftongly rooted in them, efpecially in thofe 
 tion. who are properly Turks, which often infpires them with very great cou- 
 rage, and quiets them in an extraordinary manner, when they are thrown 
 from the heighth of power into the moft miferable condition, in which 
 circumftances they fay, it is the will of God, and blefs God ; and indeed 
 they behave rather better in adverfity than profperity; though when they 
 are in high ftations, they carry themfelves with much becoming gravity ; 
 and when they do a favour, it is with a very gracious countenance ; but 
 
ON EGYPT. 181 
 
 the love of money is fo rooted in them, that nothing is to be done with^ Avarice, 
 out bribery ; and it is an affront to come into the prefence of a great man, 
 where a favour is to be asked, without a prefent, or having it fignified to 
 him that fomething is dclign'd. The fame notion of predeftination makes 
 them ufe no precautions againft the plague; but they even go and help 
 to bury the bodies of thofe that die of it, which is reckon'd a very great 
 charity, tho' it is faid there is no infection in a dead body. 
 
 They think the greater}, villainies are expiated, when once they Wafh Devotioa. 
 their hands and feet. This is their preparation to go to prayers, which all 
 the polite people conftantly do ; for the outward appearance of religion is 
 in fafhion among them, and it is look'd on as genteel to fay their prayers 
 in any place at the ufual hours. Their prayers are very fhort, and repeated 
 five times a day ; but they may perform all thefe devotions at one time. They 
 always pray on a carpet or cloth, to avoid touching any thing that is un- 
 clean. They pray in the moft publick places wherever they are; and when 
 they are in a vifit, will call for water to wafh their hands and feet, and fo 
 perform their devotions. The Arabs that live in tents are feldom feen to pray. 
 
 Refignation to the will of God, and perhaps no great affection for their Manners and 
 relations, is the caufe that they lament very little for them, and foon for- culloms ' 
 get the lofs of them, unlefs it be of their children; for they are very 
 fond to have children, and are affectionate towards them. Thofe who are 
 properly Turks here commonly marry flaves of Circaffia, Georgia, and 
 other countries, who exceed the natives of the country in beauty. Their 
 words pafs for nothing, either in relations, promifes, or profeflions of . 
 friendfhip. The ufe of Laudanum, fo much in vogue formerly, is fuc- 
 ceeded by drinking chiefly ftrong waters, which they take plentifully at 
 their meals ; tho' a great many will not drink, but they ufe heating things 
 , . to chear them. The perfons who drink are chiefly the foldiery and great 
 men ; but it would be reckon'd fcandalous in people of bufinefs. The 
 Arabs indeed do not drink, or very rarely; and the common people pound 
 the leaves of green hemp, make a ball of it, and fwallow it down, to 
 make them chearful. And a compofition is made of the buds of hemp, 
 before they flower, which has the fame intoxicating quality as Laudanum, 
 and is call'd Aphioum, or Opium, which fignifies any thing that ftupifles 
 or intoxicates. A vice the Turks are remarkable for, is not practifed a- 
 mong the Arabs, or true Egyptians. 
 
 They have a great notion of the magic art, have books about it, and 
 think there is much virtue in talifmans and charms ; but particularly are 
 ftrongly poffeffed with an opinion of the evil eye. And when a child is 
 commended, except you give it fome bleffing, if they are not very well 
 affured of your good will, they ufe charms againft the evil eye; and par- 
 ticularly when they think any ill fuccefs attends them on account of an evil 
 eye, they throw fait into the fire. 
 
 The meaneft Mahometan thinks himfelf above any Chriftian ; and where 
 there is no dependency, they put themfelves on a rank with them, and feldom 
 preferve any tolerable good manners, efpecially the Turks. The Arabs and 
 people of the country are civil enough, and fhew it in their way, by 
 coming and fitting about you ; tho' they are troublefome, by being too ob- 
 ferving, curious, and inquifitive. The Turks alfo will be very civil, either 
 to get prefents, or to find out your defigns and inclinations, in which they 
 are very artful ; but where there is any dependency among one another, 
 Vol. I. A a a they 
 
18a OBSERVATIONS 
 
 they obferve a great decorum, all riling up when a fuperior comes in. And 
 in a regular meeting in the military Divans, as I have been told, the infe- 
 rior takes up the Papouches of the fuperior, and fets them by him, and 
 after receives the fame regards from his inferior : And, as I have been in- 
 form'd, a fuperior of great dignity holds the ftirrup to a fuperior that is 
 ftill greater, when he mounts ; as a two-tail'd Vizier holds the ftirrup to 
 one that has three tails. The way of faluting as you approach, or pafs, is 
 by ftretching out the right hand, and bringing it to the breaft, and a little 
 inclining the head. The extraordinary falute is killing the hand, and 
 then putting it to the head. And when a vifit is paid to a fuperior, his 
 hand is kiffed ; and if he is very much fuperior, they kifs the hem of the 
 garment. The Arab falutation is by joining hands, and often bowing 
 the head to the fide of the head of the perfon faluted, alking him how 
 he does, if he is well, and bidding him peace feveral times. But a 
 Mahometan will not fay peace to a Chriftian, which is the ufual falute one 
 towards another. When they take any thing either from the hands of a 
 fuperior, or that is fent from a fuperior, they kifs it, and, as the higheft 
 relpedt, put it to their foreheads ; and if you demand any thing that re- 
 lates to a fervice or prote&ion of you, when they promife it, they put 
 their hands up to their turbants, as much as to lay, Be it on their heads; 
 which they alfo fometimes fay ; for nothing can be imagined finer than 
 the Arab manner of expreffing civility or friendfhip; and if the news only 
 is told of any one's death, they always fay, May your head be fafe. And 
 on fome particular occafions, to a great man in times of confufion, when 
 any of his enemies are taken or dead, they compliment him by wifhing 
 that all his enemies may be as he is, Among the Coptis, in public com- 
 pany, a fon does not fit before his father, or any fuperior relation, without 
 being order'd to fit more than once : And there is great reafon why fu- 
 periors fhould keep inferiors thus at a diftance, and exaft fo much refpedf. 
 of them, efpecially with regard to civil governors ; as the people are of 
 luch fiavilh minds, that they muft be kept under ; and if any liberty is 
 given, they immediately affume too much. 
 Turkift When the Turks eat, a little round or o&agon ftool, reprefented at A. in 
 manner of tne fifty -f ev enth plate, is fet on the fopha, on a colour'd cloth laid on the 
 " ' ground : Round it they throw a long cloth, to be put in the laps of the 
 
 guefts ; and with thofe of condition, a napkin is given to every one when 
 he wafhes, as they always do before they eat. This they likewife lay before 
 them, and wipe with it when they wafh after dinner. On the ftool they 
 put a copper difh tinned over, from three to fix feet diameter, which is 
 as a table; all their difhes and veffels being copper tinned over, infide and 
 out. Round this difh they put bread, fmall difhes of pickles, falads, and the 
 like ; and then they bring two or three large difhes, in two or three courfes, 
 as reprefented at B. None but the common people eat beef, and the flefh 
 of the Buffalo, as they have a notion that 'tis not eafy of digefiion. It is 
 faid in the hot Hamfeen feafon in the month of April and May, they eat, 
 for the moft part, nothing but difhes made of pulfe and herbs, and alfo 
 fifh, as being eafier of digeftion ; the great heats taking away their appe- 
 tite for all forts of meat. The Coptis, as well as the Turks, abftain from 
 fwines flefh. The moll vulgar people make a fort of beer of barley, with- 
 out being malted ; and they put fomething in it to make it intoxicate, 
 
ON EGYPT. 183 
 
 and call it Bouzy: They make it ferment; 'tis thick and four, and will 
 not keep longer than three or four days. It appears from Herodotus, that 
 the Egyptians ufed fome fort of beer in his time, which he calls wine made 
 of barley *. If they do not drink wine, they feldom drink whilft they 
 are eating. They either fit crofs-legged, or kneel, and make ufe only of 
 the right hand, not tiling knives or forks, but tear the meat with the hand ; 
 and the mafter of the houfe often takes pieces in his hand, and throws 
 them to the guefls, that he would pay an extraordinary compliment to. 
 Immediately after eating, coffee is brought. This is the Turkifh manner ; 
 their difhes confifting of Pilaw, foups, Dulma, which is any vegetable fluf- 
 fed with forced meat ; as cucumbers, onions, cawl leaves ; ftew'd difhes, 
 fweet ragoos, pieces of meat cut fmall and roafted, and feveral other 
 things. All is taken out and eaten by the inferior fervants ; not by the flaves, 
 who have a dinner prepared for them of more ordinary difhes, in another 
 room. With the Arabs and people of the country, either a round fkin isArabmai^ 
 laid on the ground for a fmall company, or large coarfe woollen cloths for a ncr ' 
 great number, fpread all over the room, and about ten difhes repeated fix 
 or feven times over, laid round at a great feaff, and whole fheep and lambs 
 boil'd and roafted in the middle. When one company has done, another 
 fits round, even to the meaneft, till all is confumed. And an Arab Prince 
 will often dine in the ftreet, before his door, and call to all that pafs, even 
 beggars, in the ufual expreffion, Bifimillah, that is, In the name of God j 
 who come and fit down, and when they have done, give their Hamdelli- 
 lah, that is, God be praifed. For the Arabs are great levellers, put every 
 body on a footing with them ; and it is by fuch generofity and hofpitality 
 that they maintain their intereft ; but the middling people among them, 
 and the Coptis, live but poorly. I have often fat down with them, only 
 to bread, raw onions, and a feed pounded and put in oil, which they call 
 Serich, produced by an herb call'd Simfim, into which they dip their bread, 
 that is made as often as they eat, in very thin cakes, baked on an iron 
 plate heated. They have a very good difh for one who has a good appe- 
 tite, which is thefe cakes broken all to pieces, and mix'd with a fort of 
 fyrup made of the fugar cane when it is green. This cane is a great de- 
 fert with them, by fucking the fweet juice out of it. They alfo eat a 
 four milk turn'd with feeds. They have a difh among the Moors call'd 
 Cufcafow, which is made with flower temper'd with water, and rolled in the 
 hands into fmall pieces, and being put in a cullender, over a boiling pot 
 flopped clofe round, it is dreffed with the fleam, and then they put butter 
 to it. They alfo fometimes drefs dates with butter. Their great meal is 
 generally at night, taking a light collation in the morning of fried eggs* 
 cheefe, and, at great tables, olives and honey. And this is alfo ufual 
 with the Turks, efpecially if they go out to do bufinefs, or for diverfion, 
 to flay abroad moft part of the day, otherwife they dine rather before 
 noon, and fup early in the evening. They probably chufe to eat early in 
 the morning, before the heat takes away their appetite ; and eat again 
 foon in the evening, when it begins to be cool. When they have no 
 company, they commonly go into the Harem, or womens apartments, at 
 the time of eating, to a wife, in her feparate apartment, who either prepares 
 
 * "Oivw f £« mnaniptvu Sta^tufioit. Herodotus ii. c. 77. 
 
 the 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 the dinner, or infpefts and directs it, though they are great perfons, hav- 
 ing their offices adjoining to their rooms. And a great man who has four 
 wives, has five kitchens, one for each of them, managed by their flaves 
 or fervants ; and one great one for public entertainments for the mafter, 
 when he dines out of the Harem, and for the flaves and fervants. At a 
 Turkifh vifit, a pipe is immediately brought, and coffee; and if it is a 
 vifit of ceremony, fweet-meats, with the coffee ; and afterwards a fherbet ; 
 and then, according to the dignity of the perfon, incenfe and rofe water 
 to perfume, which is a genteel way of difmiffing the company. Friends 
 who vifit, efpecially women, flay a night or two, or more, carrying their 
 beds with them, tho' in the fame town ; and coffee, or a fweet water boil'd 
 on cinnamon, are brought at leaft once in an hour. And I have been told 
 that it is a mark of great refpeft among them, often to change their gar- 
 ments during the vifit. If any one goes to the houfe of an Arab, or to his 
 tent, bread is immediately made, and they ferve four milk and cucum- 
 bers in it when in feafon, fried eggs, and oil to dip the bread in, a fait 
 cheefe like curds, and fuch like. They do not take it well if you do not 
 ftay and eat, and think it fuch a favour to come to their houfes, and put 
 yourfelf, as it were, under their protection, that where there have been any 
 enmities, if one goes to the other's houfe and eats with him, all is forgot. 
 And I have feen them fometimes fhew refentment by refufing to take cof- 
 fee, or any thing offer'd ; like the janizaries, who when they mutiny, will 
 not eat the Grand Signor's Pilaw ; but if preffed to eat, and they comply, 
 it is a fign the refentment is paft. They generally rife early, at break of 
 day, and often go at that time to the Mofques, the common people at leaft; 
 thence they refort to the coffee-houfes, and having taken their collations, go 
 pretty late to their fhops, and fhut them about four in the afternoon. The 
 great people either vifit or are vifited. In Cairo, on fundays, tuefdays, 
 and thurfdays, they go to the Pafha's Divan ; and thefe are the general 
 days of bufinefs. Fridays they ftay at home, and go to their Mofques at 
 noon; and though, with them, it is their day of devotion, yet they never 
 abftain from their bufinefs. The three other days of the week they call 
 Benifh days, from the garment of that name, which is not a habit of ce- 
 remony. They then go out early in the morning with their flaves, to pub- 
 lic places out of town, commonly call'd Meidans, or Places, where they 
 have a fort of open fummer-houfes, and fee their flaves ride, fhoot, and 
 throw the dart, and regale themfelves with their pipe and coffee. Few 
 of them, except thofe of the law or church, ever read in books, but have 
 generally company with them ; and as they have time to think much, that 
 is one very great caufe of their refined policy, in many refpedls. When 
 they are at home, they ftay from twelve to four in the womens apartment, 
 and from the time they go to fupper, till the next morning ; and when 
 they are there, it muft be bufinefs of very extraordinary importance, if 
 they are call'd out, efpecially if they are great men. It is the cuftom in 
 moft parts of Turkey, if not every where, for the men to eat by themfelves, 
 even in the womens apartments; the wife having her provifions ferved, 
 perhaps at the fame time, in another room. The month of failing of the 
 Mahometans, call'd Ramefan, as I have already obferved, is very fevere; 
 and when it happens in the fummer, it is very hard on the labourers, who 
 cannot drink, being only allow'd to walh their mouths. As this month, 
 
 r ' n 
 J 
 
ON EGYPT. I8j 
 
 in thirty- three years is in all feafons of the year. TheTurkifh month being Calculation 
 lunar, they begin it the day they can fee the moon ; whereas the Jews be- 
 gin it the day the moon makes, which is a day before the Turks. The 
 Coptick month is thirty days, and every year they have five intercalary 
 days, and every fourth year fix ; their iEra begins three hundred and two 
 years after Chrift, from the martyrdom of the faints in Egypt, under Di- 
 ocletian. One of the greateft refrefhments among the Turks, as 1 have 
 obferved before, is going to the bagnios; in the firft large room, generally Bathing, 
 covered with a cupola, they undrefs, and putting on thofe wooden pat- 
 tins, which they ufe alfo in their houfes, and are reprefented at +. in the 
 fifty- eighth plate, they go into the hot room, where they are wafh'd and 
 rubb'd with brufhes and hair cloths ; they rub the feet with a fort of grater> 
 made of earthen ware, fomething refembling the body of a bird, which may 
 be feen at F. in the fifty-feventh plate, they then make all the joints fnap, 
 even the very neck, and all down the back, which they think makes the 
 joints fupple ; after this they are fhaved, and go into the bath ; from this place 
 they return by a room not fo hot, where they ftay a while; and from thence 
 go into the great room, repofe on a bed, fmoke their pipe, take their cof- 
 fee, and drefs. The eafterns love their eafe very much ; fome of them 
 will fit all day long in their coffee-houfes, and confiderable perfons will 
 go and fit in the fhops of the great merchants for two or three hours, and 
 take thofe refrefhments of tobacco and coffee they fo much delight in. 
 When they travel, they always walk their horfes, let out pretty early, and ^"jj" cf 
 often repofe in the way, for a quarter of an hour, fmoak and take coffee, m ° ' B 
 efpecially when it is hot, when they ftop frequently in the fhade ; thofe who 
 do not travel in great fiate, have a leathern bottle of water, reprefented atQ^ 
 in the fifty-feventh plate, hanging to their own faddle, or their fervant's, to 
 drink whenever they are thirfty ; the great men have a horfe or camel loaded 
 with (kins of water ; but if they go fhort journeys, they have fuch large ones 
 as are reprefented at a. in the fifty-eighth plate, in which they carry water 
 from the river in Cairo, and from the cifterns in Alexandria; or if they go 
 long journeys, they have fuch as are reprefented at c. which they ufe in the 
 journey to Mecca; and very great people have a fervant that carries fuch a 
 vafe of water, as is feen at D. in the fifty-feventh plate, in a balket made of 
 a fort of net work, as at E. to be always ready whenever the water is wanted. 
 By night they rarely make ufe of tents, but lie in the open air, having 
 large lanthorns, made like a pocket paper lanthorn, the bottom and top 
 being of copper, tinned over, and inftead of paper they are made with 
 linen, which is extended by hoops of wire, fo that when it is put together, 
 it ferves as a candleftick, as at V. and they have a contrivance to hang it up 
 abroad, by means of three ftaves, in the manner that large fcales are hung, 
 in order to weigh, as reprefented at T. They commonly lie only on car- 
 pets. All their kitchen utenfils they carry with them, which in the 
 train of a great man load two or three camels ; but the Arabs put fuch 
 a veffel as is reprefented at k. into the basket i. made of palm leaves, 
 and within it they put fmaller veffels, and feveral other utenfils, and 
 carry them with great conveniency tied to their camels. All their veffels 
 for dreffing are in that manner, fo that the top often ferves them for a 
 difh ; and all thefe things are of copper, tinned over infide and out; thefe 
 and the wooden bowl, which ferves as a large difh, and in which they 
 Vol. I. B b b iiiakg 
 
1 86 OBSERVATION S 
 
 make their bread, are all the kitchen furniture of an Arab, even where lie 
 is fettled. The round leathern cover laid on the ground, is /hewn at C. 
 it has rings round it, by which it is drawn together, with a chain that 
 has a hook to it, to hang it by, either to the fide of the camel or in the 
 lioufe, this draws it together, and fometimes they carry in it the meal 
 made into dough ; in this manner they bring it full of bread, and when the 
 repaft is over, carry it away at once, with all that is left, in the fame 
 manner. It is reprefented here as the larger fort are made, only with a 
 leathern thong round the rings. They leaven their bread by putting in 
 a piece of the laft dough they made, which they always lay by, and 
 becoming four, it caufes a fermentation in it, and makes the bread light. 
 The other things reprefented in the fifty-feventh plate may be feen be- 
 low b . 
 
 When the caravans go to Mecca, fome women of condition ride in tarta- 
 
 Caravan to 
 Mecca. 
 
 b X. A collar of filver wire, worn by the 
 youths in Syria, about their necks, which are 
 bare. 
 
 1. Turkifh beads -, thofe who pretend extraor- 
 dinary religion ufe fuch as are larger, and have a 
 greater number of beads, efpecially mad people 
 and fools. 
 
 W. The mufical inftrument called Nakous, 
 made like two plates of brafs ; they are of diffe- 
 rent fizes, from two inches to a foot diameter ; 
 holding them by the firings, they beat them to- 
 gether, as to beat the time, and probably that 
 might be the original of them : They are ufed 
 both in the Coptic churches, and alfo in the Ma- 
 hometan proceflions. 
 
 b. The long Turkifh pipe, the tube being of 
 wood or reed, the bowl of earthen ware ; for 
 travelling they have them made in two or three 
 joints, to put into a bag ; they cover the tube 
 fometimes with cloth, and dip it in water to 
 make it fmoak cool. 
 
 c. A Turkifh letter put into a fattin bag, to 
 be fent to a great man, with a paper tied to 
 it directed and fealed, and an ivory button tied 
 on the wax. As the Turks rarely write, the name 
 is writ for them, and on the backfide of it they 
 make the impreffion of their name with their 
 feal, generally of cornelian, which they wear on 
 their finger, and it is blacked, when there is oc- 
 cafion to feal with it. 
 
 d. and f. Are an Egyptian wooden lock: It is 
 nailed on to the door poft, and has in it certain 
 holes at g. d. is faflened to the door, and at e. 
 are wires, fo placed in holes correfponding to the 
 holes in f. as that falling down they go into the 
 holes at g. and the door is locked ; there is a hole 
 for the key h. to go into it, which having wires 
 fixed to it, fo as to go into the holes at g. they 
 thruft up the wires at e. and the door is unlock'd 
 and may be opened. 
 
 q. A vafe made of fkin or bladder, with 
 which they pour oil into their lamps. 
 
 r. An inftrument of defence they have in their 
 villages. 
 
 z. A vafe made of leather, round a wooden 
 frame with a ftopper of wood x. over which they 
 tie the leather ; in thefe they bring the balfam 
 from Mecca, and when they travel, they carry 
 in them the butter called Mantecu, which being 
 
 oiled over the fire, and falted, is kept in thefe 
 vafes, but h very difagreeable. 
 
 A bottle of leather, which they hang 011 
 the fide of their camels, or is carried by the fer- 
 vant, to drink out of when they travel ; they 
 are of a workmanlhip they much excel in atCon- 
 ftantinople, and are often adorned with flowers, 
 made with a fort of very fine brafs wire; they 
 take out the large ftopper to put in the water, 
 at the top of which there is a fmall hole with a 
 peg to it, out of which they drink. 
 
 P. Is a copper tinn'd veffel, they ufe for wa- 
 ter to wafh the hands, held over a large difli. 
 
 N. is of earthen ware, and ferves for the fame 
 ufe among the poor people ; and both of them 
 for a more private ufe. 
 
 R. Is the China vafe, to fprinkle rofe water 
 on the guefts at their departure, having a filver 
 top, with holes made through it. 
 
 S. Is the incenfepot, with which they incenfe 
 the company, being fometimes of a ware like that 
 of Delft, fome have them of brafs ; I have feen 
 them among the Chriftians of filver, of very fine 
 workmanlhip. 
 
 0. Is a cafe to put their coffee difhes in when 
 they travel. 
 
 L. Is an inkhorn, which the writers and tradef- 
 men flick into their girdle, and is very conve- 
 nient, the top fhutting down; at the end it opens, 
 and pens and a penknife M. are put into it. 
 
 1. A vafe of Cairo, called a Burdack, out of 
 which they commonly drink; a ftrainer is made 
 in it to hinder any thing from falling into the 
 water ; they are made of a fait earth that cools 
 the water, and being fet out in the air to the 
 north, the water always drinks cool. They are 
 porous, and the water in about two days, or lefs, 
 would pafs through them. 
 
 K, Is a coffee pot of copper, tinned over. 
 
 G. Is the pointed knife and (heath they flick 
 in their girdle; the fheaths are commonly of 
 fome metal lined with wood, fome are made very 
 fine of filver gilt. 
 
 F. Is made of leather, with a rim round in the 
 middle, it is placed on the fophas under the pipe, 
 to prevent the burning of the carpet. 
 
 H. is the unleavened bread of the Coptis, for 
 the eucharift, made in a mould, with a Coptic 
 infeription round ic. 
 
 vans 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 i 
 
 Vans of litters carried by camels, as reprefented in the fifty-eighth plate, the 
 labour of the camel that goes behind being very great, as his head is under 
 the litter. Some go in a fmaller fort, on the back of one camel, as may be 
 feen at b. People of condition ride on a faddled camel, as it is reprefented 
 at d. Inferior perfons ride on camels loaded with their carpets and bed, if 
 they have any, and other neceffaries; they commonly have a double crook e. 
 in their hands, to dire£t the camel by touching his head, and alfo to recover 
 their bridle, if it happens to drop, and to ftrike the beaft to make him go on. 
 The moll extraordinary way of conveyance is a fort of round basket on 
 each fide of the camel, with a cover made at top, as may be feen at f. 
 there is a cover over the lower part, which holds all their neceffaries, and 
 the perfon fits crofs-legged on it. They have alfo in the fame manner, 
 fomething like the body of an uncovered chaife or chair, which is more 
 convenient, as they can fit and extend their legs, if there is only one in 
 it ; for I think two can fit in thefe on each fide. The pilgrims to Mecca 
 commonly go in a fort of black cloak, with acoul; the people of Barbary 
 wear them white : It is fattened about the neck with a long loop, and 
 the cloak commonly hangs behind. Having mentioned the caravan to 
 Mecca, I fhall give fome account of it. There is a tradition, that there 
 was a great pilgrimage to thofe parts (before the eftablifhment of the Ma- 
 hometan religion) to Abraham's tomb, as they call it, and the place where 
 they fay he offered up his fon Ifaac ; but the Jews fay that it is the place 
 to which Abraham came to fee Ifhmael. The great ceremonies of the 
 pilgrims now confift in carrying the coverings of the mofques, and of the 
 tombs of Abraham and Mahomet, moft of which are a fort of black 
 damask, richly embroidered with gold ; every thing relating to it being 
 manufactured by people employed entirely about it in the caftle of Cairo. 
 The firft proceffion is the carrying of thefe things from the caftle to the 
 mofque Haffanine, on the third day after the feaft of Biram, which fuc- 
 ceeds their great faft ; all the Sheiks of the mofques, and the feveral 
 companies of different trades go to the caftle in proceffion with their 
 colours. The ftandards of Mecca were firft brought rolled up; then the 
 people carried along part of the hangings of the houfe of Mecca, folded 
 together; and fo feveral pieces of it, about half a quarter of an hour 
 one after another ; the people crowded to touch them, kiffmg their hands, 
 and putting them to their heads: Some carried nothing but the fine ropes 
 that were to tie them up. Several focieties came with ftandards difplay'd, 
 fome of them with mufic, others dancing ; fome either mad, or feem- 
 ingly in a fort of religious extafy, throwing about their heads and hands; 
 fome naked to their drawers, others panting moft violently, as people 
 out of breath; then came the covering of the tomb of Mahomet cal- 
 led Mahmel, made in the fhape of a pyramid, with a fquare bafe, and 
 richly embroider'd with gold, on a ground of green and red ; a view of 
 the houfe of Mecca was embroidered on it, with a portico round it; it 
 was carried on a camel that was all over painted yellow, with the powder 
 they call Henna ; and it is faid they are camels bred on purpofe for this 
 bufinefs, and never employed about any thing elfe, being efteem'd facred ; 
 and 1 have been told, that in their religious madnefs they take oft" the 
 froth that comes from the camel's mouth. The beaft is covered almoft all 
 over with rich brocades and embroideries; it was follow'd by three others 
 
 adorn'd 
 
188 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 adorn'd in the fame manner, and fix more not altogether fo fine, all 
 mounted by boys. Soon after came the cover of Abraham's tomb, like a 
 cheft; this was alfo embroidered with gold, and it is faid that it is by 
 fome means fufpended in the air over the place, where they fay Abra- 
 ham offered his facrifice. Then follow'd the body of the Chaoufes, and a 
 great officer of the Pafhas, and after him the fuperintendant of the ward- 
 robe (Nadir-il-Kifve) who has the care of all the work, and of the eftate 
 which the Califs of Egypt appropriated for the expence of it ; the trappings 
 of his horfe were very fine, the houfing being of a flower'd tiffue. Af- 
 ter him came the janizaries, and fome officers of the Pafha, and Iaft of 
 all, the very rich covering of the door of the houfeof Mecca, called Bur- 
 ca, it is ten feet long and five wide, on which are feveral figures and A- 
 rabic letters, moft richly embroider'd in gold, on a ground of red and 
 green, being often made to flop that the people might touch it. 
 
 But the grand proceffion is that of the caravan going out to Mecca. 
 The order of this proceffion may be feen in the laft book, as well as I 
 could take an account of it when it paffed. All the camels in this proceffion 
 were painted yellow, and had fome ornaments on them, efpecially the 
 firft of every company had on its head and nofe a fine plume of red 
 oftrich feathers, and a fmall flag on each fide, the ftaff of which is crowned 
 likewife with oftrich feathers, and the trappings adorn'd with fhells ,• the 
 fecond and third had a bell on each fide about a foot long, and all of 
 them fome ornaments. Under the faddle of each of them was a coarfe 
 carpet to cover them by night. As foon as they are out of town, 
 they go without any order to Sibil-allam, three or four miles off, where 
 they encamp for three days ; afterwards they encamp at the lake ; the E- 
 mir Hadge not returning to town. The encampment at the lake is very 
 fine, all the great men pitching their tents and flaying there, and pall- 
 ing the time in feafting, the whole city pouring out to fee this ex- 
 traordinary fight, and to join in keeping the feftival ; in the evenings 
 they have bonfires and fireworks. It is faid forty thoufand people go in 
 this caravan; they begin their journey in a week after the proceffion. 
 There is a flory among the people, that thofe of Barbary are obliged to 
 be a day behind the others when they arrive at Mecca, and to leave it a 
 day before them, on account of a prophecy they talk of, that thofe peo- 
 ple fhall one time or other take the country of Mecca. A great trade is 
 carried on by the caravan, as they always return laden with the rich goods 
 of Perfia and India, brought to Geda on the Red fea near Mecca. An- 
 other caravan fets out from Damafcus, and, if I miftake not, carries the 
 fame prefentsj and the old hangings, which 1 think belong to the Emir 
 Hadge, are cut in pieces, and given about among the great people, as the 
 moft facred relick. It is looked upon almoft as an indifpenfable duty to 
 go once to Mecca ; and thofe that cannot go, it is faid, think they merit 
 by bearing the charges of another perfon to go in their places. There are 
 many that make this journey often, but there is an obfervation, that the 
 people are rather worfe after making this pilgrimage than they were be- 
 fore ; and there is a faying, " If a man has been once at Mecca, take 
 " care of him; if he has been twice there, have nothing to do with 
 " him; and if he has been three times at Mecca, remove out of his 
 " neighbourhood;" but this is not to be thought an obfervation of the Maho- 
 metans 
 
ON EGYPT. 189 
 
 mctans, but is only remark'd by the Chriftians and Jews. The jour- 
 ney to Mecca and back again, takes them up a hundred days. The ca- 
 ravan of Damafcus fets out on the fame day, and on the twenty-feventh 
 day they meet at Bedder. They ftay three days at Mecca, and then go to 
 Mount Arrafat, about fix hours from Mecca ; where they pay their devo- 
 tions, on account of the hiftory they have of Abraham. They ftay there 
 two days, then they go two hours and a half to Munna, where they ftay 
 three days, and keep the feaft of Corban Biram, or The feaft of the facri- 
 fice : They then return to Mecca, the place of Mahomet's nativity. The 
 regular time to ftay there is twelve days ; but if the merchants cannot fi- 
 nifli their bufinefs, by making a prefent to the Emir Hadge, they may ob- 
 tain leave to ftay two or three days longer ; and may gain that time by 
 not tarrying fo long as they would do otherwife at fome places on their re- 
 turn. From Mecca they return fix days journey to Bedder, from which 
 place they go in three days to Medina, to the fepulchre of Mahomet ; 
 where the firft Califs refided, until they went to Damafcus. There they 
 ftay three davs, and return by another road to Yembo, and fo back to 
 Cairo. The account of their rout may be feen in the Iaft book, which I 
 had from the mouth of one who had been fourteen times at Mecca. 
 
 The moft fimple drefs in Egypt, refembles probably the primitive man-Egyptiaq 
 ner of clothing ; for it is only a long fhirt A. in the fifty-eighth plate/"*' 
 which has wide fleeves. It is commonly tied about the middle ; and many 
 children in the country go naked all the year round, as moft of them do 
 in the fummer. The common people wear over this a brown woollen 
 fhirt, and thofe of better condition have a long cloth coat over it, and 
 then a long blue fhirt ; and the drefs of ceremony over this, inftead of blue, 
 is a white fhirt, which they put on upon feftival days, and to pay great vifits 
 in upper Egypt ; but in the lower parts they ufe a fhirt or garment made like 
 it, of black woollen, which is fometimes by the more genteel left open before, 
 and then is properly what they call a Ferijee ; and fome of the firft con- 
 dition have them of cloth, and furred, the Arabs and natives wearing their 
 cloaths with large fleeves, like the drefs of ceremony of the Turks, call'd 
 the Ferijee, made like a night-gown ; the other drefs of the Turks being 
 with ftreight fleeves. Moft of them wear under all a pair of linen drawers 
 B. and when their vefts are open before, after the Turkifh manner, it is 
 an odd fight to fee the fhirt hang down, which they do not put into the 
 drawers, according to the Turkifh cuftom with the men, tho' not with the 
 ladies ; for the drefs of the men in Turkey, is more modeft than of the 
 women, whereas in Europe it is rather the contrary. 
 
 This fort of drefs feems to be fomething like that of the antient Egyp- 
 tians, who were clothed with linen, wearing a woollen garment over it ; 
 and when they perform'd any religious offices, they were always clothed 
 in linen, looking on it as a fort of profanation to wear woollen at fucli 
 folemnities *. And poffibly the cuftom of putting on the white garment 
 in upper Egypt, when they go to their mofques, or whenever they would 
 appear in a drefs of ceremony, might give rife to the ufe of the furplice. 
 The moft fimple Turkifh drefs is fuch drawers, over which the better fort 
 
 ^uarajvwTgf , ifs xaftsaffi jtMtfm'eA' el") TKTOifft 3\ K&mci yxa ociqv. HcrodotUS 1. U. C. 8 1 . 
 
 Vol. I. C c c wear 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 wear a pair of red cloth drawers, C. down to the ankles ; to which are 
 fewed ftockings of yellow leather, which come no higher than the ankle, 
 and under them they wear focks of yellow leather E. but the Chriftians of 
 the country wear red leather, at leaft their Papouches or flippers G. and 
 the Jews wear blue ; but the leather fewed on is not wore by the common 
 people, but only the focks, and fo their legs appear bare up to the drawers. 
 The Arabs and Egyptians wear fhoes of red leather, like a flipper, with 
 hind quarters, H. and the janizaries wear them of the fame colour, and very 
 little different. The Turks and Chriftians in the city, within doors, out 
 of frugality, wear a wooden fort of patten F. fomething like the wooden 
 landal of the monks, fome of which are made very fine; and it is to be 
 obferved that the drefs of the feet and of the head, very much diftinguifli 
 perfons in thefe countries; and they are fined if they go contrary to the 
 cuftom. Frank Chriftians only have the liberty of wearing, as the Turks, 
 yellow Papouches ; and they, in many parts, wear a yellow flipper, I. The 
 Turks wear fuch boots as are reprefented at K. having iron plates under the 
 heel, as they often wear their Papouches. The Turkifh garments are firft 
 a fort of fliort garment L. without fleeves, of dimity or linen ; it is often 
 not open before, but tied on the fide; over it is a fhort veft with fleeves, M. 
 over that is a long garment of the fame kind. Thefe two laft are either of 
 died linen, or ftriped fluffs of linen or cotton, or of ftriped or plain filks 
 and fattins; and in fummer they wear the long garment and the drawers of 
 the fineft white callicoes. Over this is a clofe-fleeved garment, like the Greek 
 gown, which is call'd a Benifh, and is the common drefs ; and over that is 
 the Ferijee mention'd, which is the drefs of ceremony. They have ano- 
 ther fort cut differently in the fleeve, which is not fo high a drefs *. Thele 
 two laft garments are either of cloth, mohair, or filk, according to the fea- 
 fon ; the latter indeed is never of filk, nor is the Benifh ever wore here of 
 filk, tho' it is in Syria. A girdle or fafh of filk, mohair, or woollen, goes 
 round all but the two outer garments, into which they ftick a knife in 
 its fheath. The people of Egypt wear a blue cloth about their necks, and 
 with it cover their head- againft the cold and fun, and fome of them are 
 very large. It is almoft a general cuftom among the Arabs and Maho- 
 metan natives of the country, to wear a large blanket, either white or 
 brown, and in fummer a blue and white cotton fheet, which the Chriftians 
 conftantly ufe in the country ; putting one corner before over the left 
 fhoulder, they bring it behind, and under the right arm, and fo over 
 their bodies, throwing it behind over the left fhoulder, and fo the right 
 arm is left bare for action. When it is hot, and they are on horfeback, 
 they let it fall down on the faddle round them ; and about Faiume I par- 
 ticularly obierved, that young people efpecially, and the poorer fort, had 
 nothing on whatfoever but this blanket; and it is probable the young man 
 was clothed in this manner, who follow'd our Saviour when he was taken, 
 having a linen cloth caft about his naked body ; and when the young men 
 laid hold on him, he left the linen cloth and fled from them naked f. The 
 head-drefs is either that high ftiff cap at N. with a long piece of white 
 muflin wound round it, all together call'd The turbant, by Europeans. 
 The Dervifhes wear fuch a one as is at O. without any thing round it, and 
 the Turcomen fuch a long one more pointed, both made of a fort of 
 
 coarie 
 
 * This is call'd a Kcrikec. -f Jofeph's garment might alfo be of this kind, 
 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. i 9 r 
 
 coarfe felt. P. is the cloth cap of the Boftangees. Inferior people, in- 
 ftead of the turbant, wear a red woollen cap a. which comes clofe to the 
 head. This is wore by the Arabs, and native Egyptians, except merchants, 
 and great ftewards of Arab Princes, and Copti priefts, who wear the other. 
 Under this they wear a little white linen fkull-cap. I was told atDamafcus, 
 that one whofe family has not wore the high turbant, and the leathern flock- 
 ing fewed to the drawer, cannot begin to wear them there, unlefs by vir- 
 tue of fome office or employ ; but the fafh wound round the head, is the 
 great diftindtion. None but the relations of Mahomet can wear green. 
 The white is proper to Mahometans ; but in Syria, where there are vil- 
 lages of Chriftians, as on Mount Libanon, they wear white; and any one 
 may wear white, if they put a colour'd firing, to diftinguifh themfelves, as 
 the Samaritans do, and the Jews of Saphet in Syria, who have red and blue 
 firings few'd acrofs the fafh; but this is not much ufed. The Chriftians 
 and Jews in all thefe parts, wear either blue, or blue and white ftriped. 
 The Franks in Cairo did wear white, and then they wore Carpacks, or red 
 caps turn'd up with furr, as reprefented at b. as fome do now, but it is 
 the proper drefs of the interpreters. The others generally wear the red cap, 
 and the red muflin tied round ; in all other parts they wear a hat and wig, as 
 the Englifh conful does when he goes out in public. The French con- 
 ful, and fome of his officers go in the Frank habit ; and fo have the Eng- 
 lifh confuls formerly, as they do at Aleppo. And Cairo is the only place 
 I have heard of in Turkey, where none but the confuls ordinarily ride 
 on horfes. The common people in the country either wear no fafh round 
 the cap, or one of coarfe white cotton, or of yellow or red woollen fluff. 
 
 The drefs of the women, according to the manner of Conftantinople, Dre <s °f tt>« 
 is not much unlike that of the men, only moll of their under garments womcn ' 
 are of filk, as well as their drawers; and all but the outer veft are fhorter 
 than the mens, and their fleeves are made to hang down, a fort of gauze 
 fhirt coming down near to the ground under all. Their heads are drefled 
 with an embroider'd handkerchief, and the hair platted round, having on 
 a white woollen fkull-cap. The ordinary women wear a large linen or 
 cotton blue garment, like a furplice ; and before their faces hangs a fort of 
 a bib, which is join'd to their head- drefs by a tape over the nofe ; the 
 fpace between being only for the eyes ; which looks very odd. The others 
 who wear this garment of filk, have a large black veil that comes all over, 
 and fomething of gauze that covers the face. It being reckon'd a great 
 indecency to fhew the whole face, they generally cover the mouth, and one 
 eye, if they do not cover the whole. The different dreffes of men and 
 women, moil peculiar to Egypt, may be feen in the fifty-ninth plate, and 
 an explanation of them below f. The common women, efpecially the * 
 
 blacks, 
 
 -f The Copti reprefents one of their writers, the Chous of the janizaries, beating the ground 
 with his account book in his hand. The Bey's with his ftick, to make way ; for this great offt- 
 drefs, with that particular cap, is that which he cer always goes on an afs, for the greater fpeed. 
 wears only in great ceremony. The natural is The affes pace along very faft ; whereas 'tis con- 
 copied from one who actually was attired in that trary to the Turkifh dignity to go, on a horfe, 
 manner. The man always leads the lady's afs, fafter than a foot pace in the ftreets. This Chous's 
 and if fhe has a fervant, he goes on one fide ; but black drefs is very particular, becaufe no other 
 the afs driver follows the men, goads on the beaft, Mahometan men ever wear black j and his gar- 
 and when he is to turn, directs his head with the ment is tuck'd up before, which fecms likev/ife 
 pole. But he ought to have been drawn before to be defign'd for greater convenience in difpatch- 
 
 ing 
 
i o t OBSERVATIONS 
 
 blacks, wear rings in their nofes ; into the rings they put a glafs bead for 
 ornament, as at They wear on their ears large rings, three inches dia- 
 meter, that come round the ear, and are not put into it ; thefe are orna- 
 mented as at R. The rings they wear on their fingers are fuch as are feen 
 at V. which are fometimes of lead, but the better fort of women wear gold. 
 Their bracelets T. are moft commonly a work of wire : There are fome 
 of gold finely jointed; a more ordinary fort are of plain iron or brafs. 
 They wear aifo fuch rings as at S. round their naked legs, moft commonly 
 made of brafs among the vulgar, who alfo wear about their necks the or- 
 nament W. Among the common people it is made of pewter; and in 
 the cafe at the bottom they put a paper with fomething writ on it out of 
 the Alcoran, as a charm againft ficknefs and other evils. The other cafes 
 feem to be defign'd for the fame purpofe. People of middling condition, 
 inftead of thele, have many ornaments of filver, and often pieces of money 
 hung to them, and fometimes antient coins they happen to meet with; 
 and even in the country, whenever they go out to wafh at the river, or to 
 fetch water, they put on all their attire, and appear in full drefs. I have 
 here added the ring X. which I faw at Alexandria ; it is of gold, and feems 
 to have been the ring of a patriarch of Alexandria. What is cut in the gold 
 is reprefented at Z. in its juft proportion, and larger on the other fide. 
 Women ride on affes in Cairo, with very fhort ftirrups, which it is a dis- 
 honour for the men to ufe, when they mount thefe beafts. They have a 
 prophecy that Cairo will be taken by a woman on horfeback, which, as 
 they fay, makes them ftridtly forbid women mounting on horfes. The 
 time when the women go out, is moftly on fridays, to the burial-places, 
 to adorn with flowers and boughs the fepulchres of their relations, to hang 
 a lamp over them, and pour water on their graves ; and they place wa- 
 ter in vafes near. When the women ride, they commonly wear a yellow 
 fort of a boot or ftocking, being without a fole ; and ladies of diftin&ion 
 have many female flaves that follow them on afles, who do not wear thofe 
 large veils, but only a covering over the forehead and lower part of die 
 face, leaving the eyes uncover'd between. Their clofe garment has a cape 
 that hangs down behind, and they make a much better figure than their 
 miftreffes. The women alfo go out to the bagnios, which are referved for 
 them at a certain time, every day : This is their rendezvous to talk with 
 one another and hear news. 
 Decency. There are women who so barefaced about the ftreets, dancing, finginp- 
 
 Women and ... , . n b r . ■ i re ■ i i 
 
 harlots. and playing on iome mnrument, as repreiented in the ntty-ninrii plate. 
 Thefe may not be fuppofed to be very virtuous ; and yet they fay they are 
 fb, in one refpedt, in which they might be moft fufpe&ed. There are not- 
 withftanding common women, who are in a manner licenfed, and pay a 
 Oiher tribute on that account. The vulgar women paint their lips, and the tip 
 cuftoms. o £ t j ig chin with blue, and thofe of better condition paint their nails yel- 
 
 ing his affairs. He fhould have been reprefented pleafure of feeing about them, without having 
 
 rather fitting upright. The woman, with that their faces feen. It is to be obferved that what 
 
 odd fort of cover on her face, is in the drefs of the Copti has in his hand is a fort of palkboard, 
 
 the ordinary women of Egypt ; and "tis to be ob- on which his accounts are ftrung. Over them 
 
 fcrved that 'tis genteel to turn in their toes. The comes another pafteboard, and fo they are tied 
 
 other is an Arab woman fpinning. The lady on together. They have palteboards alfo painted o- 
 
 horfeback has a fort of cover over the upper part ver •, they write on them, and wipe off the writing 
 
 of her face, which is of black horfe-hair, that is with a wet fpunge, being ufed as Dates, 
 extended by art, fo as that they may have the 
 
 low, 
 
ON EGYPT. 193 
 
 low, and alfo their feet with a dye made of a feed call'd Hennah ; and they 
 colour their eye-lids with black lead, and fo do many even of the men a- 
 mong the Turks, imagining it good for weak eyes. 
 
 Coffee-houfes are not reforted to by the beft company, but only by people 
 of the middle rank : They have their mulic at certain hours of the day, in 
 fome of them, and in others a man tells fome hiftory, a fort of Arabian 
 tales, with a good grace ; which is a method they have to bring company 
 together. They often fend to the (hops for their provifions to be brought 
 to the coffee-houfes ; and thofe who have nothing to do, pais whole days 
 in them. 
 
 Both Turks and Egyptians are very frugal in their manner of living; 
 the latter feldom eat meat, and the expence of the great men in their 
 tables is but fmall, confidering the number of attendants they have, in 
 which they are very extravagant. It is common for them to have fifty or 
 fixty Haves, and as great a number of other fervants, befides dependants. 
 They are at great expences in clothing their Haves, and in keeping a 
 great number of horfes, from fifty to two hundred. They are excellently 
 well managed; do not feem to know their own ftrength, always ftanding 
 with the hind and fore legs tied together ; they feed them with grafs when 
 in leafon, and at other times with chopped draw, and give them barley all 
 the year. They lie on their dung, without ftraw, and very often (land 
 abroad, efpecially in upper Egypt they keep them out in their courts all 
 the year round : They walk finely, never trot, but gallop fwiftly, turn fud- 
 denly, and flop in a moment on full fpeed ; but they never gallop but for 
 diverfion, or to run away. 
 
 The Mahometans have a certain veneration for fools and mad people, as Veneration 
 thinking them afted by a divine fpir.it, and look on them as a fort of faints, p^^S' 
 They call them here Sheiks. There are fome women of them ; but the 
 mod part are men, who go about the towns, are received in all houfes and 
 at all tables; the people kifs their hands, and pay them great regard, as I 
 have obferved. Some of thefe go about their cities intirely naked ; and in 
 Cairo they have a large mofque, with buildings adjoining, and great reve- 
 nues to maintain fuch perfons. A view of one of thefe naturals, in a very 
 extraordinary drefs, may be feen in the fifty-ninth plate. As thefe are re- 
 commended by their want of reafon, fo the Dervifhes are by their want of 
 money ; poverty being efteem'd by a Turk as a great degree of perfection 
 in every one but himfelf. There are hardly any of thefe in Egypt ; nor 
 have they more than one convent, which is near old Cairo, as I obferved 
 before. 
 
 The Egyptians are but an ill-looking people, and tho' many of them fair 
 enough when young, yet they grow fwarthy by the fun. They are alfo a 
 dirty, flovenly generation, efpecially the Coptis, whofe drefs, at beft, ap- 
 pears but ill on them ; and as table-linen is very rarely or never ufed by the 
 Arabs, Egyptians, or Coptis, I have feen the latter, after waffling their 
 hands when they have eaten, wipe them with the great fieeves of their fhirts. 
 
 The true Mamaluke drefs is the fhort garment above- mention'd, put into Mamaluke 
 their great red trowfers, which are tied round the leg at each ankle, the drds ' 
 foot being left bare ; and they wear the fort of fhoes ufed by the Arabs 
 when they ride. In other refpedts they drefs like the Turks ; and this is 
 
 Vol. I. D d d the 
 
i 94 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 the drefs of the flaves, and likewife of many of the great men, when they 
 are not in a drefs of ceremony. 
 Modem ar- The architecture in Egypt is very bad, and their materials of the worft 
 chitefturc. f ort> man y houfes being built of unburnt brick made of earth and chopp'd 
 ftraw dried in the fun. In towns, the lower part for about five feet is of 
 ftone, and in fome parts the corners are built of brick or ftone ; the up- 
 per part of the houfes in towns are often built in frames of wood ; and 
 the large windows commonly fet out fo as to command a view of the 
 ftreet; they rarely live in the lower rooms, and I fuppofe it is not efteem'd 
 wholfome ; their roofs are generally flat, with a cement over them, and 
 fometimes only earth ; the wood they ufe is either deal or oak, imported 
 from Afia, or the palm, ufed much in upper Egypt, as well as the Aca- 
 cia : I have feen planks of the palm with a very coarfe grain, and their 
 carpenters work is the worft that can be imagin'd. Over the middle of 
 their great faloons they have often a dome or cupola that gives light, and 
 fometimes they have a contrivance by which the middle part opens at top to 
 let in the air when they think it convenient ; and they have ufually the 
 large cover fet up over the openings, in fuch manner as to keep out the 
 fun and leave a free paflage for the air. Whatever is tolerable at Cairo 
 in architecture is of the times of the Mamalukes, of which one alfo fees 
 great remains at Damafcus and Aleppo, being very folid buildings of 
 hewn ftone infide and out ; the windows are often oblong fquares, and 
 perfectly plain, as well as the doors, except that the latter, which are fet 
 into the infide of the wall, have a fort of grotefque carv'd work, cut in an 
 inclined plain from the outride of the wall to the door, which has a 
 grand appearance. Over all openings, the ftones are either narrower at 
 bottom than at top, which gives them the ftrength of an arch, or being 
 indented on the fides, they are made to fit into one another, fo that they 
 cannot give way. In moft of their mofques they have fmall well propor- 
 tioned cupolas; and exceeding fine minarets to fome of them, with feveral 
 ftories of galleries, leflening till the minaret ends at top with a fort of 
 pyramidal point. There are alfo, as I obferved, about Cairo, fome very 
 grand gates, with a femicircular or fquare tower on each fide. Their 
 houfes confift of one or more large faloons, which have oftentimes a fopha 
 at each end, and a fquare fort of cupola in the middle ; they are wain- 
 fcotted about fix feet high, with pannels of marble, having round them a 
 fort of Mofaic work, compofed of marbles and fmalt in different figures, 
 and the floors that are between the fophas are often Mofaic work. As for 
 the other rooms, they are generally fmall, for convenience, as they live and 
 often lie in thefe faloons, having their beds brought on the fophas ; here 
 they likewife receive all their company. The lower rooms are generally 
 ufed as offices and warehoufes ; the firft floor is the part they inhabit ; it 
 is feldom they have a fecond ftory, except the little rooms on each fide 
 their faloons, which are of the height of two ftories. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT, 
 
 *95 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the Climate, Soil and Waters of Egypt. 
 
 HE climate of Egypt is very hot in fummer, by reafon of its fitu- Climata 
 ation between two ranges of mountains, and alfo on account of 
 the fandy foil. Towards the middle of the day in the fun it is always hot, 
 even in winter, but the nights and mornings are very cold, occafioned by 
 the nitre in the air, and on that account it is a dangerous thing to catch 
 cold, efpecially in the head, which often occafions a humour to fall on 
 the eyes, that is thought to be the caufe of the great number of blind, 
 and of thofe who have weak eyes; they think it alfo bad for the eyes to 
 fuifer the dew to light on them, which at fome times of the year falls 
 very plentifully by night ; which are the reafons why they carefully wrap 
 up the head, and cover their eyes by night. The coldeft time here is a- 
 bout the beginning of February ; near the fea they have fometimes great 
 rains from November to March; but up higher, about Cairo, they have fel- 
 dom any rain but in December, January and February; and thofe but 
 little mowers for a quarter or half an hour. In upper Egypt they have 
 fometimes a little rain, and I was told that in eight years it had been 
 known to rain but twice very hard for about half an hour, though it 
 rained much towards Akmim when I was in thofe parts. The weft and 
 north weft are the winds that bring the rains ; they have thunder in the 
 fummer, but without rain, and that at a diftance, from the north eaft. It Earthquakes, 
 has hardly ever been known that they had any earthquakes that did mif- 
 chief, and thofe that rarely happen'd were fcarce perceivable : But in Ja- 
 nuary 174.0, they had three great fhocks of an earthquake immediately 
 after one another, which threw down fome mofques and feveral houfes; 
 and it being a year of fcarcity, all the people cried out for plenty of corn, 
 as they have a ftrange notion, that at fuch times the heavens are open'd, . 
 and their prayers heard. There are two forts of wind that blow moftly in WiniJs - 
 Egypt, the fouth or a few points from it, and the north wind ; the fouth 
 wind is called Merify, it is a very hot wind; fometimes it blows a few 
 points from the eaft of the fouth, then it is exceeding hot ; at other times 
 it blows from the weft of the fouth, when it is rather windy, and not fo 
 hot; it blows alfo fometimes very hard from the fouth weft; and when 
 thefe winds are high, it raifes the fand in fuch a manner that it darkens 
 the fun, and one cannot fee the diftance of a quarter of a mile ; the duft 
 enters into the chambers that are the clofeft fhut, into the very beds and 
 fcrutores ; and, to give an inftance of the romantic manner of talking among 
 the Eafterns, they fay the duft will enter into an entire egg through the 
 fhell. The wind is often fo exceffively hot, that it is like the air of an oven, 
 and people are forced to retire into the lower rooms and to their vaults, and 
 fhut themfelves clofe up ; for the beft fence againft it is to keep every part 
 fhut up; this wind generally begins about the middle of March, and conti- 
 nues till May, it is commonly called by the Europeans the Hamfeen wind, 
 or the wind of the fifty days ; becaufe that feafon of the year, when it blows, 
 is fo call'd by the Arabs, being much about the fifty days between Eafter 
 and Whitfuntide. The north wind is called Meltem, being what the an- 
 
 tients 
 
 1 
 
196 
 
 OBSERV AT IONS 
 
 tients called the Etefian winds: This begins to blow in May, fome time 
 before the Nile rifes ; it is a refrefhing wind, and makes the exceffive 
 heats of fummer fupportable ; it brings with it health, and the happinefs 
 of Egypt; is thought to be the caufe of the overflow of the Nile, and 
 continues blowing till November, and without this wind they could not 
 Plague. fail up the Nile, all the time that its current is fo very rapid. It is this 
 wind that puts a flop to the plague ; for if it breeds of itfelf, it generally 
 begins in Egypt about February, when the weather is coldeft, and is thought 
 to be occalioned by a ftoppage of perfpiration ; it rages, and is very mor- 
 tal during the hot winds ; but they have the plague very rarely in E- 
 gypt, unlefs brought by infection to Alexandria, when it does not com- 
 monly fpread ; fome fuppofe that this diftemper breeds in temperate 
 weather, and that exceffive cold and heat flops it ; fo that they have it not 
 in Conftantinople in winter, nor in Egypt in fummer ; but at Conftanti- 
 nople during the fummer, where the heat is temperate, in comparifon of 
 what it is here. There are feveral things which they imagine do not 
 communicate the infection, as water, iron, wood, or any thing made of 
 the date tree, therefore they ufe the ropes made of a part of this tree. As 
 foon as the plague begins, the Franks fhut up their houfes, but others 
 go about as ufual ; though fome great men obferving the Europeans efcape, 
 retired in the laft plague, notwithftanding their notion of predeftination. 
 The moft mortal plague is that which comes from the fouth, being much 
 worfe than any infection from Conftantinople, and is brought by the ca- 
 ravan that comes from Ethiopia. 
 
 The air of Cairo is not thought to be very wholfome, at night efpeci- 
 aly ; the fmoak, when there is no wind, hovering over it like a cloud, their 
 fires being made in the evening, when they eat their great meal At 
 fpring and fall, people are much fubjeft to fluxes, but in the fummer they 
 are not dangerous, and in all diftempers foups made of meat are not reckon'd 
 proper. The people of the country are often troubled with ruptures, which 
 are thought to be caufed by heats and colds, and alfo by draining their voices 
 fo exceffively in ringing, thofe who cry oft 7 the mofques being moft commonly 
 afflicted with this diftemper. It has been pofitively affirmed, that a fright 
 caufes people here to break out in blotches, like a foul difeafe, to prevent 
 which, bleeding is thought a proper remedy, and, when I came from Ro- 
 fetto, they fhewedme a boy about fourteen, who, they affured me, was juft 
 recovered out of fuch a diforder, and had marks of it ; but I have been 
 informed that this very rarely happens, and that the notion is encouraged 
 for fome certain ends, to cover other caufes that are fometimes more real. 
 The moft unhealthy time is when the perfpiration is flopped by the cold, 
 for every thing here is very nourifhing; and this is given as a reafon for 
 drinking coffee, that it is drying, and prevents the making too much blood ; 
 when they have the benefit of perfpiration, it carries off all fuperfluous 
 humours, and the great quantities of water, fhirbets, &c. that are drunk, 
 do no harm ; but if they do not fweat, they burn in hot weather, and 
 are in a fort of fever, in which cafe the bagnios are a great relief, which 
 carry off, or at leaft diminifh a great many diforders in the blood, and 
 prevent their appearing. About May moft perfons break out in a rafh, 
 which continues during the heats ; it is thought that drinking the waters 
 of the Nile after it rifes, contributes toward it; and it is the fafhion to 
 
 carry 
 
 Other dif- 
 tempers. 
 
ON EGYPT. 197 
 
 carry a ftick called Maharofhy, which is made at the end like a file, and 
 it is no frame to rub themfelves with it, as they have occafion. 
 
 The foil of Egypt, except what additions it has received from the over- Soil of E- 
 flow of the Nile, is naturally fandy. The hills on each fide are freeftone ; syp ' 
 thofe the pyramids of Gize are built on, are full of petrified Ihells, and 
 fo are the ftones of which the pyramids themfelves are built, being dug 
 out of thefe hills. I particularly obferved at Saccara a large pyramid, 
 and a fmaller unfinifh'd, built of ftones that are almoft entirely compofed 
 of oyfter fhells cemented together; there are alfo fome low hills of the 
 mountains that are north north eaft of Faiume, and others clofe to the 
 Nile on the eaft, which are heaps of large oyfter fhells, fome remaining 
 in their firft ftate, and others petrified, where there was fufficient moifture. 
 The foil of Egypt is full of nitre or fait, which occafions nitrous vapours, 
 that make the night air fo cold and dangerous. Where the nitre abounds 
 very much, and there are fmall lakes on the low grounds, after the water 
 has evaporated, a cake of fait is left on the furface, which is gather'd for 
 ufe, and I have feen the beafts often eat the very earth, when they find 
 it is mix'd with the fait, which fometimes appears on the ground fike a 
 white froft. It is this and the rich quality of the earth, which is the fe- 
 diment of the water of the Nile, that makes Egypt fo fertile, and fome- 
 times they even find it neceffary to temper the rich foil, by bringing 
 fand to it ; but the fandy foil, though they bring water to it, will not 
 produce a crop that will anfwer the expence, but does very well for trees. 
 For a mile from the mountains, or more, the country is commonly fandy, 
 being a very gentle rifing, and may be looked on as the foot of the hill. 
 Near the edge of this defert they generally have villages at a proper di- 
 ftance, with plantations about them, as well as at fome little diftance from 
 the river; and if the hills are above four or five miles from the Nile, 
 they have villages in the middle, between the hills and the river, which 
 are built on raifed ground, where the Nile overflows. The lower parts 
 of Egypt feem formerly to have been all a marfhy uninhabited country ,- 
 and Herodotus gives that account of it b ; for before the canals were made, 
 a much lefs quantity of water muft overflow the country, becaufe the 
 out-lets were lefs, and fo the water was more confined within its bounds, 
 till it overflowed, and confequently overflow'd fooner ; and all being on 
 a level, and no ground raifed, to build thefe villages on, it muft have 
 been very inconvenient, and almoft impoffible to inhabit the country, which 
 at that time muft have been foon fubject to fuch inundations, as are 
 looked on to be a prejudice to the Country, by caufing the water to re- 
 main on it longer than was proper; and at that time, the upper parts of 
 Egypt might be overflow'd, and receive that acceffion of a rich foil which 
 makes it fo fruitful ; fo that probably one reafon why Sefoftris open'd ca- 
 nals, was to prevent thefe hurtful inundations, as well as to convey water to 
 thofe places, where they might think proper to have villages built, and 
 to water the lands more conveniently, at fuch times as the waters might 
 retire early ; for they might find by experience after the canals were open'd, 
 that, inftead of apprehending inundations, they had greater reafon, as at 
 
 b Bctffitevffxt 3 st^wtov «vSf«7T«v tMyov Mrv«' 53ri Tern, arAqv 0>j£aVic5 *0f*«, jratray " Aij'ujrloy mail sM^>. 
 
 Herodotus xt. c. 4. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 E e e 
 
 prefent. 
 
i 9 8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 prefent, to fear a want of water, which was to be fupplied as much as 
 could be by art : So that the great canals were probably made to prevent 
 inundations ; and when they began to find a want of water in a well in- 
 habited country, the lefler canals might be made to convey the water both 
 to the villages and fields, when there was not a fufHcient overflow. It is 
 difficult to affirm how much the ground has rifen, by reafon of the perpe- 
 tual motion and fucceffion of the water ; and as every year a great quantity 
 of foil is carried off in the productions of the earth, which are produced in 
 two or three crops in fome parts, the lofs of which is not fupplied any way 
 by manuring their land, and, as the bed of the Nile itfelf may rife by the 
 fubfiding of the heavier fandy particles, for thefe reafons it does not feem 
 probable that the land will rife fo high in time, that there fhould be any 
 danger that it will not be overflow'd, the ground riling alfo proportionably 
 at the fea, and every where elfe ; fo that on this fuppofition, the water will 
 rife much in the fame proportion as it has done to the lands about it; the 
 great difference being made by opening canals, and afterwards, either by 
 cleanfing them, or neglecting to do it: Though, if the lands did rife fo 
 high in lower Egypt as not to be overflown, they would be only in the con- 
 dition of the people of upper Egypt, who are obliged to raife the water 
 by art. 
 
 Wnter. As to the water of Egypt, it is very. much to be doubted, whether they 
 
 have any that does not depend on the Nile : That of Jofeph's well, which 
 is mention'd by fome as the only fpring in Egypt, certainly does ; for it 
 rifes and falls with the Nile, and has fome degree of faltnefs, by paffing 
 through the nitrous foil. There is indeed one water which feems to be a 
 fpring ; it rifes in feveral parts among the rocks, and even drops from 
 them at the ruin'd convent of Dermadoud, already mention'd, which is 
 fituated in a narrow valley, between the high mountains, on the eaft near 
 Akmim, in upper Egypt. The water is received in fmall bafins, in the 
 rock from which it runs, and makes little pools about the vale. In upper 
 Egypt, efpecially about Efne, they dig large wells a mile or two from the 
 river, and draw up the water from them ; and in all parts they have wells 
 of brackifh water, which can no where be wanting, as it is a fandy foil, 
 and the earth muft be full of water, not only where the Nile overflows, 
 but alfo in other parts, to the height of the furface of the Nile ; which 
 accounts for the Nile's being the bountiful giver of water throughout all 
 the land of Egypt. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 Of the Nile. 
 
 TheNiie. '"1"*H E river Nile is one of the greateft curiofities of Egypt. It muft 
 I be fuppofed that the north winds are the caufe of its overflow, which 
 begin to blow about the latter end of May, and drive the clouds, 
 form'd by the vapours of the Mediterranean, fouthward as far as the moun- 
 tains of Ethiopia, which flopping their courfe, they condenfe, and fall down 
 in violent rains. It is faid, that at that time not only men, from their rea- 
 , fon, 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Jon, but the very wild beafts, by a fort of inftindt, leave the mountains. 
 This wind, which is the caufe of the rife of the Nile, by driving the clouds 
 againft thofe hills, is alfo the caufe of it in another refpedt, as it drives 
 in the water from the fea, and keeps back the waters of the river in fuch 
 a manner as to raife the waters above. The increafe of its rife every day 
 muft be greateft during the time it is confined within its banks. By ac- 
 counts in the laft book, of its rife for three years, I find it rofe the fix firft 
 days from two inches to five inches every day < for the twelve next days 
 from five to ten, and fo continues rifing much in the fame manner, but 
 rather abating in its rife every day, till towards the time it arrives at the 
 height of fixteen pikes, when the Calige or canal at Cairo is cut ; after- 
 wards, tho' it goes on rifing fix weeks longer, yet it does not rife fo much 
 every day, but from three to five inches ; for, fpreading over the land, and 
 entering into the canals, tho' the quantity of water that defcends may be 
 much greater than before, yet the rife is not fo great ; for after the canal 
 at Cairo is open'd, the others are open'd at fix'd times, thofe which water 
 the loweft grounds being cut open laft. From thefe canals, when full, the 
 country is overflow'd, and not commonly from the great body of the Nile, 
 that is, where the banks are high ; for it is otherwife in the Delta, where 
 they are low. Canals are carried along the higheft parts of the country, 
 that the water may have a fall from them to all other parts, when the Nile 
 finks ; and they draw the water out of the great canals into fmall chan- 
 nels, to convey it all over the country. It is remarkable, that the ground 
 is loweft near all other rivers which are fupplied from rivulets; but, as 
 no water falls into the Nile in its paftage through this country, but, on 
 the contrary, as it is neceffary that this river Ihould overflow the country, 
 and the v/ater of it be convey'd by canals to all parts, efpecially when the 
 waters abate, fo it feem'd vifible to me, that the land of Egypt is lower at 
 a diftance from the Nile, than it is near it ; and I imagined, that in moft 
 parts it appear'd to have a gradual defcent from the Nile to the hills ; that 
 is, to the foot of them, that may be faid to begin at thofe fandy parts, a 
 mile or two diftant from them, which are gentle afcents, and for that rea- 
 fon are not overflow'd by the Nile. 
 
 The Egyptians, efpecially the Coptis, are very fond of an opinion, that the 
 Nile begins to rife every year on the fame day ; it does indeed generally begin 
 about the eighteenth or nineteenth of June. They have a notion alfo of a 
 great dew falling the night before the day that they perceive it begins to 
 rife, and that this dew, which they call Nokta, purifies the air. This, fome 
 people imagine caufes the waters of the Nile to ferment, and turn red, and 
 fometimes green; which they certainly do as foon as the Nile begins to 
 rife, and continue fo for twenty, thirty, or forty days. Then the waters- 
 are very unwholfome and purging ; and in Cairo they drink at that time 
 of the water preferved in cifterns under the houfes and mofques : And this 
 might originally be a reafon why they would not let the water into the 
 canals, which would fill the little lakes about every village, and afterwards 
 fpoil the good water that might come into them. It is fuppofed, that the 
 fources of the Nile, beginning to flow plentifully, the waters at firft bring 
 away that green or red filth which may be about the lakes at its rife, or at 
 the rife of thefe fmall rivers that flow into it, near its principal fource ; for, 
 tho' there is fo little water in the Nile when at loweft, that there is hardly 
 
 any 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 any current in many parts of it, yet it cannot be fuppofed, that the waters 
 fhould ftagnate in the bed of the Nile, fo as to become green. Afterwards 
 the water becomes very red, and ftill more turbid, and then it begins to 
 be wholfome, and is drunk by the vulgar ; but moft people have large 
 jarrs, the infides of which they rub with pounded almonds, that is, what 
 remains after the oil is preffed out, which caufes the water to ferment and 
 fettle in four or five hours. The water continues reddifh till the rapidity 
 of the ftream begins to abate in December and January; but the river 
 continues to fall, even to the feafon when it begins to rife again ; the waters 
 being always yellowifh, and colouring the waters of the fea for fome leagues 
 out. I found the height of the Nile at the Mikias in January, according 
 to their account, to be about eleven pikes ; in March about nine pikes ; 
 but in the computation of the rife of the Nile, I fuppofe it to be three pikes 
 lefs than the account they give of it. They told me alfo, that the mud, 
 which fettles every year in the Mikias, is about five feet deep. I could not 
 have thought it fo much, tho' a fucceffion of water may raife it fo high. 
 
 The precife day the Coptis would fix the beginning of its rife to, is the 
 twelfth of their month Keah, which is the fifth of June O. S. and this 
 being their feftival of St. Michael, they make a miracle of it. It is cer- 
 tain, about this time, or rather about St. John, the plague begins to flop, 
 when it happens to be here, and becomes lefs mortal ; tho' it feems rather 
 to be owing to the change of the wind, and the falling of the dew, which 
 are fome time before, and then they begin to find the effects of it. The 
 Nile is commonly about fixteen pikes high, from the twenty-fifth of July 
 to the eighteenth of Auguft; the fooner it happens, they look on it, they 
 have a better profpeft of a high Nile. It has happen'd fo late as the firft, and 
 even the nineteenth of September ; but they have been then afflifted with 
 plague and famine, the Nile not rifmg to its proper height. Eighteen pikes 
 is but an indifferent Nile, twenty is middling, twenty-two is a good Nile, 
 beyond which it feldom rifes ; and it is faid, if it rifes above twenty-four 
 pikes, it is to be look'd on as an inundation, and is of bad confequence, as 
 the water does not retire in time to fow the corn; but I cannot find any 
 certain account when this has happen'd. As many parts of Egypt are not 
 overflown, one would imagine, when the Nile does not rife high, they, 
 might fupply the want of the water by labour, and raifing water, as in up- 
 per Egypt ; but it is faid, if it is a low Nile, the water retires too foon, and 
 the earth muft be fown in a proper time after, before it dries into hard 
 cakes, in which cafe, the hot weather, ftill continuing, breeds or preferves 
 a worm that eats the corn, as well as withers the young plant ; fo that it 
 feems better that the land fhould not be overflow'd at all, than not fuffi- 
 ciently water'd. Another reafon of which may be, that when it is not 
 overflow'd, the ground may be cultivated in proper time ; which cannot 
 be, when it is only overflow'd in fuch a manner as is not fufficient. More- 
 over, when the height of the Nile does not amount to fixteen pikes, whilft 
 they exped it to rife higher, it begins to fall, and the ground is to be la- 
 bour'd out of feafon, during the hot weather, and the water is flowing 
 from them, to increafe the immenfe labour of watering, by raifing it 
 higher, to a dry thirfty land that will drink it up ; and if they fow too 
 foon, the fame inconveniences would follow as above. As they have dikes 
 to keep the water out of the canals till the proper time comes to let it 
 + in, 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 2,01 
 
 in, fo they have contrivances to keep it in fome canals after the Nile is fal- 
 len, as well as in certain lakes when the Nile grows low ; and from them 
 they let it out at pleafure, on lands that are higher than the channels of 
 the canals : And Strabo takes notice of thefe methods to hinder the water 
 from flowing in, or going out when it is in. Towards the mouth of the 
 Nile, the banks are low, and the water overflows the land foon. There 
 likewife it has its vent into the fea ; fo that the water does not rife at Ro- 
 fetto, and below Damiata, above three or four pikes : And I was allured, 
 it does not rife above four or five at Affouan, juft below the catarads; 
 the reafon of which may be, that the Nile below is very broad, and that 
 the banks are not, as in other places, perpendicular, but floping, fo that 
 the water is not confined, but fpreads over the banks, towards which the low 
 hills come, on the weft fide, with a gentle defcent. 
 
 The Grand Signor has not a title to his rents, till the canal is open'd at 
 Cairo, by breaking down the bank that is thrown up before it, which is 
 not to be done, till the Nile rifes to fixteen pikes ; yet, when the Nile once 
 did not rife fo high, and the Paflia cauled the canal to be open'd, the 
 people, notwithftanding, would not pay the tribute. The Nile has fome- 
 times been known to rife irregularly, as it did a pike or two in December, 
 one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-feven ; at which the people were 
 alarm'd, having made fome obfervations, that misfortunes had happen'd to 
 Egypt when the Nile had rifen out of feafon, and, particularly, that it did 
 fo in the time of Cleopatra, when Egypt was taken by the Romans. But, 
 however, nothing happen'd the year following, but a very plentiful rifing 
 of the Nile, which is the blefling of Egypt. The time when the Nile is 
 at higheft, is about the middle of September. 
 
 They have different methods of railing the water, where the Nile is not Railing the 
 much below the furface of the ground ; as at Rofetto and Damiata, they Nllc water < 
 make a hole and put in a wheel made with boxes round its circumference, 
 which receive the water, and, as the wheel goes round, the boxes empty 
 at top into a trough made for that purpofe. Where the water is too 
 deep to be raifed in this way, they put a cord round the wheel, which 
 reaches down to the water ; to it they tie earthen jarrs, which fill with 
 water as it goes round, and empty themfelves at top in the fame manner, 
 being turn'd by oxen. Where the banks are high, the moil common way 
 is to make a bafin in the fide of them, and fixing a pole with an axle on 
 another forked pole, they tie a pole at the end of that, and at the end 
 again of this which is next to the river, a leathern bucket ; and a ftone be- 
 ing tied to the other end, two men draw down the bucket into the water, 
 and the weight brings it up, the men directing it, and turning the water 
 into the bafin ; from this it runs into another bafin, whence it is railed in 
 like manner, and fo I have feen five, one over another, in the upper parts 
 of Egypt, which is a great labour. This is reprefented in the eighth plate 
 at D. Another way moftly ufed in railing water from the canals, is a firing 
 tied to each end of a basket, with one man to each firing, who let the 
 baiket into the water, and drawing the firings tight, raife it three or four 
 feet to a little canal, into which they empty it, and by that it is convey 'd 
 over the land. This is reprefented at D. in the eighth plate. The waters 
 of the Nile are efteem'd to be very wholfome and nourilhing, and may be 
 drunk very plentifully, without any inconvenience. 
 
 Vol. I. F f f I know 
 
302 
 
 Fifli of the 
 Nile. 
 
 Crocodiles. 
 
 OBSERVATION S 
 
 I know not whether there are any fort of fifh in the Nile, that are in 
 the rivers in Europe, except eels and mullet, which laft, and fome other 
 fifh in it, come from the fea at certain feafons. There is no fort of fhell- 
 fifti in the river; but in Baher Jofeph, the canal near Faiume, which runs 
 into the lake Caroon, there is a large musfle, that has within it a fort of 
 mother of pearl of a reddifh caft. I never could be well informed about 
 the Hippopotamus, and only heard that they have been feen about Damiata, 
 and that by night they had deftroyed whole fields of corn ; but I take the 
 foundation of this account to be owing to one that was taken there fome 
 years ago ; they feem to be natives of Ethiopia, in the upper parts of the 
 Nile, and it muft be very feldom that they come down into Egypt. The 
 antients as well as moderns, notwithftanding, mention that this beaft, 
 when he is out of order, has a method of bleeding himfelf in the leg 
 with the fbarp pointed end of a reed, that grows in thofe parts, though it 
 muft be very difficult to make fuch an obfervation \ Herodotus mentions 
 thefe fifhes, defcribes them particularly, and fays, they were worfhipp'd in 
 fome part of Egypt f. The fifh moftly efteemed are the Bulfi, which 
 are very plentiful, and fomething like a large roach ; the Sebuga, which 
 is full of bones, and eats much like a herring ; the Rai, which is call'd the 
 Cefalo in Italian, and comes from the fea ; but what is ftill more efteem'd, 
 is a fifh, which the French call the Variole, becaufe it is very much like 
 a carp ; they fay they are fometimes found of two hundred weight. But 
 the moft delicate fifh is the Kefher, which is caught only towards upper 
 Egypt ; the fkin appears like that of the falmon ; it has a fort of a long 
 narrow fnout, with fo fmall a mouth, that, from it, as well as from its 
 infide, one might conjecture, it lives by fucking a juice either from the 
 weeds, or out of the ground, as reprefented in the feventieth plate. When 
 1 was in upper Egypt, they told me there was a large fifh call'd Latous, 
 which probably is the Latus that was worfhipp'd by the Egyptians, from 
 which the city called Latopolis had its name. They inform'd me that 
 this fifh at Cairo was call'd Cufir, whence I fuppofe it muft be the fame 
 with the Kefher. There is a fmall fifh call'd Gurgur in upper Egypt, and 
 Shalh at Cairo; it is at moft about a foot long; its head is well fortified 
 with a ftrong bone; the fin on the back, and on each fide under the 
 gills is armed with a fharp bone, as reprefented in the fame plate: They 
 have an opinion, that this fifh enters the crocodile, and kills it. This 
 poflibly may be what Pliny feems to call, erroneoufly, the dolphin, which, 
 he fays, has a fharp point on his back, with which, getting under the cro- 
 codile's belly, he wounds him. 
 
 It is a general obfervation, that a crocodile has no tongue, and Hero- 
 dotus affirms it; but he has a flefhy fubftance like a tongue, that is 
 fix'd all along to the lower jaw, which may ferve to turn his meat. He 
 has two long teeth at the end of his lower jaw, and there are two holes 
 in the upper jaw, into which thefe teeth go: When he fhuts his mouth, 
 he moves only the upper jaw. I found by experience, that the crocodiles 
 are very quick fighted ; for, making a circuit to come directly behind them, 
 to fhoot at them, I always obferved they began to move gently into the 
 
 c Vide Profperi Alpini Hiftoriam Naturalem f Lib. ii. c. 71. 
 iEgypti. iv. c. 12. 
 
 water. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 water, as foon as I came in fight of them ; and there is a fort of channel 
 on the head behind each eye, by which objects are convey 'd to them. 
 Their eggs are about the fize of a goofe egg : They make a hole about 
 two feet deep in the fand, above the overflow of the Nile in which they 
 lay their eggs, and cover them over, often going to the place and taking 
 care of their young, when hatch'd, which immediately run into the wa- 
 ter. They lay fifty eggs, which are twenty-five or thirty days in hatch- 
 ing: The people fearch for the eggs to deftroy them, with an iron pike. 
 ] could get no account in upper Egypt of the Ichneumon's deftroying the 
 eggs, and entering by the mouth of the crocodile into his bowels, and 
 killing him; and it feems improbable that it can do this without being 
 ftifled; the animal they have here, called Pharaoh's rat, which is fhewn 
 for it in Europe, is fomething of the make of a ftote, but much larger; 
 it is not improbable that it deftroys their eggs. The crocodile when on 
 land is always feen very near the water, with his head towards the river, 
 on the low banks of fandy iflands; and if they are difturbed, they walk 
 gently into the river, and difappear by degrees, though it is faid they 
 can run faft. Herodotus fays, they eat nothing during four months, in 
 the winter ; and Pliny, that they lie hid in caves during that feafon ; but 
 I faw them in great abundance all the month of January, and was allured, 
 they never go above thirty or forty paces from the river, and that they 
 venture fo far only by night; though it is probable, they are moftly out of 
 water by day, to fun themfelves in winter, as I obferved ; and it is alfo pro- 
 bable, that they keep in the water by day in fummer, when the fun is hot. 
 The people fay, they cannot take a man fwimming in the water, but if a 
 man or beaft ftands by the river, they jump at once out of the water, 
 and feize him with their fore claws; but if the diftance is too great, they 
 make a fpring, and beat down the prey with their tails. I believe the 
 moft common way of killing them, is by fhooting them ; and the ball 
 muft be direfted towards their bellies, where the fkin is foft, and not 
 arm'd with fcales, as their backs are. Yet they give an account of a me- 
 thod of catching them, fomething like that which Herodotus s relates : 
 They make fome animal cry at a diftance from the river, and when the 
 crocodile comes out, they thruft a fpear into his body, to which a rope is 
 tied ; they then let him go into the water to fpend himfelf, and afterwards 
 drawing him out, run a pole into his mouth, and, jumping on his back, 
 tie his jaws together. The crocodile moft commonly frequents low 
 iflands; and for that reafon there are very few below Akmim; and in 
 thefe lower parts, the current may be too flrong for them, which they 
 avoid, as well as places where the Nile runs among rocks, as it does at the 
 cataracts. It is remarkable, that the antient Egyptians, in the time of 
 Herodotus, call'd the crocodile Champfa, and at this day the Egyptians 
 call them Timfah. 
 
 e Parit ova quanta anferes, eaque extra locum 
 eum Temper incubat, prsedivinatione quadam, ad 
 quern fummo auftu eo anno acceffums eft Nilus. 
 Nihil aliud animal ex minori origine in majorem 
 
 crefcit magnitudinem. Plm.Nat.Hi/l. viii. c. 25. 
 1 Dies in terra agit, nodes in aqua. Ibid. 
 B Herodotus ii. c. 70. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Of the Vegetables of Egypt. 
 
 EGYPT does not naturally produce a great number of vegetables ,- 
 the heat and inundations every year deftroying moft of the tender 
 plants. Where the Nile has overflown, and the land is fown, it yields a 
 great increafe, and, as it was formerly the granary of the Roman empire, 
 fo it is now of the Turkifh dominions ; from whence they conftantly re- 
 ceive their rice, and alfo corn, whenever they have occafion. In upper 
 Egypt, the Arab Sheiks have vaft granaries of corn, where they lay up 
 what is more than fufficient for the confumption of Egypt ; and they chufe 
 rather to let it lie till it rots, than to fend down more than there is a de- 
 mand for; which would fink the price: But when there is any extraordi- 
 nary demand, they then open their granaries. From Egypt all the wefiern 
 parts of Arabia Fcelix, about Mecca and Gedda, are fupplied ; to which port 
 they carry yearly about twenty fhip loads of corn and rice from Suez ; it 
 being the return which the fhips make, that come loaded with coffee. The 
 Arabs alfo in Arabia Petrsea on the Red fea, have their fupply from E- 
 gypt, before the caravan returns from Mecca ; and fecure their provifion, 
 by threatning to plunder the caravan, if they are refufed. They fow the 
 land with clover, without ploughing it, and it is this that fupplies the 
 place of grafs, which they have not. They have a fpring harveft from 
 January to May, and a winter harveft about Oftober. For the latter, 
 about July, before the Nile overflows the land, they fow rice, Indian 
 wheat, and another fort that produces a large cane, but an ear like 
 millet, (which they call the corn of Damafcus; and in Italian is 
 call'd Surgo Roffo) and they likewife plant their fugar canes ; all thefe 
 being plants that require much water, efpecially rice, which has 
 an ear fomething like oats, and is reap'd before the water is gone off, 
 and carried to dry ground ; its grain looks like barley ; and they take 
 off the hufk with a hollow cylinder, one end of which has a blunt edge, 
 which being raifed and let down by a machine turned by oxen, and fal- 
 ling on the rice, caufes the outer coat to fcale off ; and being cleaned, they 
 mix with it a fmall quantity of fait, to preferve it from vermin. The peo- 
 ple eat a great quantity of the green fugar canes, and make a coarfe loaf 
 fugar, and alfo fugar-candy, and fome very fine fugar fent to Conftantino- 
 ple to the Grand Signor, which is very dear, being made only for that 
 purpole. The fpring corn and vegetables are fown in November and 
 December, as foon as the Nile is gone off, and earlier, where the Nile 
 does not overflow; thefe are wheat, which is all bearded, lentils, lupins, 
 flax, barley, that has fix rows of grain in one ear, and is ufed moftly 
 for horfes. They have no oats, but fow beans for the camels, which the 
 people alfo eat green, both raw and boiled, and likewife dry. Befides thefe, 
 they fow a fort of vetch with one large grain on each pod, call'd Haum, which 
 they eat raw when green, and, drefled, is not much inferior to peafe, which 
 they have not, but they are ufed moftly dry. They alfo cultivate, at this 
 feafon, the Saffranoun, which grows like fuccory, and the flower of it 
 dyes a rofe colour; it is exported into many parts of Europe. They have 
 alfo an herb, call'd Nil, which they cultivate, in order to make a fort of 
 
 indigo 
 
O N E G Y P T. 205 
 
 indigo blue, which they do if I miftake not, by pounding and boiling it, 
 afterwards leaving it to fteep in water, and, I fuppofe, preiling it out, and 
 then probably boiling it again,- or letting it evaporate, till it becomes a 
 cake or powder. They have all forts of melons, cucumbers, and other 
 vegetables of that kind, which the people eat much in the hot weather, 
 as a cooling food. Upper Egypt fupplies moft parts of Europe with Senna ; 
 and in the fandy grounds there, the Coloquintida grows wild, like a cala- 
 bafh, being round, and about three inches diameter. 
 
 As the land of Egypt does not in any part run into wood, fo it is much Trce3, 
 to be queftioned, if there are any trees in it, which have not been tranf- 
 planted to it from other countries. Thofe which are only in gardens, as the 
 Caflia, the orange and lemon kind, apricots, the Mofeh, a delicate fruit, that 
 cannot be preferved ; the pomegranate, the Cous or cream tree, all thefe are 
 without doubt exotic trees; and fo probably is the cotton, which I faw in 
 tipper Egypt, of the perennial kind ; I have fince been told that annual cot- 
 ton grows in Delta. The following trees are moft common in Egypt, and 
 the two firft are moft likely to be natives; a tree call'd Sount, which 
 feems to be a fpecies of the Acacia; it bears a fort of key or pod, which 
 they ufe in tanning their leather, inftead bark : There is another fort 
 of it in their gardens, called Fetneh; it feems to be the Acacia of Italy, 
 call'd by the Italians Gazieh ; it is efteem'd becaufe of a fweet yellow 
 flower it bears ; but the roots of it open'd and bruifed, fend forth fuch a 
 difagreeable. fmell, that it infeds the air for a confiderable diftance. The 
 Ettle, which we call the tamarilk, a tree that grows wild in the fouth parts 
 of France ; the bark of it is ufed in phytic, as a remedy for the dropfy ; 
 and the roots of it growing into a ciftern at Rama near Jerufalem,' that 
 water is efteemed good for this diftemper. The Dumez is call'd by 
 Europeans, Pharaoh's fruit ; it is the fycamore of the antients, and is pro- 
 perly a Ficus fatuus : The fig is fmall, but like common figs ; at the end of 
 it a fort of water gathers together, and, unlefs it is cut and the water let 
 out, it will not ripen; this they fometimes do, covering the bough with 
 a net, to keep off" the birds ; and the fruit is not bad, though it is not 
 efteemed. It is a large fpreading tree, with a round leaf, and has this 
 particular quality, that fhort branches without leaves come out of the great 
 limbs all about the wood, and thefe bear the fruit. It was of the timber 
 of this tree that the Egyptians made their coffins for their embalmed bodies, 
 and the wood remains found to this day. Thefe trees are likewife in fome 
 parts of Syria: They are fometimes planted near villages, efpecially about 
 Cairo ; and the Sount is often planted on each fide the road, there being 
 alfo little woods of it, near fome villages. But the moft extraordinary The Palm 
 tree is the palm or date tree, which is of great ufe in this country, and tree ' 
 deferves a particular defcription. For three or four years, no body of a 
 tree appears above ground, but they are as in our green houfes. If the 
 top is cut off, with the boughs coming from it, either then or afterwards, 
 the young bud, and the ends of the tender boughs united together at top, 
 are a delicate food, fomething like chefnuts, but much finer, and is fold 
 very dear. This tree being fo fruitful, they rarely cut off the top, unlefs 
 the tree is blown down ; though I have been told, that part of it may be 
 cut away without hurting the tree. The boughs are of a grain like cane, 
 and, when the tree grows larger, a great number of ftringy fibres feem to 
 Vol. I. G g g ftretch 
 
206 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ftretch out from the boughs on each fide, which crofs one another in fuch 
 a manner, that they take out from between the boughs a fort of bark like 
 clofe net work ; and this they fpin out with the hand, and with it make 
 cords of all fizes, which are moftly ufed in Egypt. They alfo make of it a 
 fort of brulh for cloaths. Of the leaves they make mattreffes, bafkets, and 
 brooms ; and of the branches, all forts of cage work, fquare baskets for packing, 
 that ferve for many ufes inftead of boxes ; and the ends of the boughs, that 
 grow next to the trunk, being beaten like flax, the fibres feparate, and be- 
 ing tied together at the narrow end, they ferve for brooms. Thefe boughs 
 do not fall off of themfelves in many years, even after they are dead, as 
 they die after five or fix years ; but, as they are of great ufe, they com- 
 monly cut them off" every year (unlefs fuch as are at a great diftance from 
 any town or village) leaving the ends of them on the tree, which ftrengthen 
 it much ; and when after many years they drop off, the tree is weaken'd 
 by it, and very often is broke down by the wind ; the diameter of the tree 
 being little more than a foot, and not above eight or nine inches when the 
 ends of the boughs drop off ; and, if the tree is weak towards the bottom, 
 they raife a mound of earth round, and it fhoots out abundance of fmall 
 roots along the fide of the tree, which increafe its bulk, fo that the earth 
 being removed, the tree is better able to refill the wind. The palm-tree 
 grows very high in one ftem, and is not of a proportionable bulk. The 
 timber is porous, and that which is moft folid, has fomething of the coarfe 
 grain of the oak of New England ; but it lafts a great while in all infide 
 work of rafters and the like. It is rarely uied for boards, except about 
 Faiume, where the trees are large. It has this peculiarity, that the heart 
 of the tree is the fofteft and leaft durable part, the outer parts being the 
 moft folid ; fo that they generally nie the trees intire on the tops of their 
 houfes, or divide them only into two parts. A fort of bough fhoots out, 
 and bears the fruit in a kind of fheath, which opens as it grows. The 
 male bears a large bunch, fomething like millet, which is full of a white 
 flower, and, unlefs the young fruit of the female is impregnated with it, 
 the fruit is good for nought; and, to fecure it, they tie a piece of this 
 fruit of the male to every bearing branch of the female. Strabo obferves, 
 that the palm-trees in Judea did not bear fruit, as at prefent ; which pro- 
 bably may be owing to their not having the male tree ; concerning which 
 I could get no information ; but the fruit of the female tree, without the 
 male, drops off, or comes to no perfection. About Damafcus I faw a firing 
 of figs tied almoft to every fig-tree, and was told that they were the male 
 fig, placed there for the fame purpofe, as the male date is tied to the fe- 
 male. The fruit of the date, when frefh, eats well roalled, and alfo pre- 
 pared as a fweet-meat. It is efteem'd of a hot nature, and, as it comes in 
 during the winter, being ripe in November, providence feems to have de- 
 fign'd it as a warm food, during the cold feafon, to comfort the ftomach, 
 in a country where it has not given wine. It is proper to drink water with 
 it, as they do in thefe countries, and fo it becomes a good corrective of 
 that cold element. From the date they draw a tolerable fpirit, which is 
 ufed much by the Chriftians in upper Egypt. In thefe upper parts of Egypt 
 Th .£Dome, they have a palm-tree call'd the Dome. The ftem does not grow high, 
 palm. DUt there foon fhoot out from it two branches, and from each of them two 
 others, and fo, for four or five times, each branch divides into two. The 
 s leaf 
 
ON EGYPT, 
 
 leaf is of a femicircular figure, about three feet diameter, and is very beau- 
 tiful. The fruit is oval, about three inches long, and two wide. The 
 flefh on it is about a quarter of an inch thick; but it is dry and hufty, 
 having fomething of the tafte of ginger-bread : They therefore make holes 
 in it, and moiften it with water. Under this there is a fhell, and within 
 that a large kernel, which is hollow within ; fo that, making a hole through 
 it when it is green, it ferves for a fnuff-box, and turn'd when dry, makes 
 very fine beads, that have a polifh like marble : They are much ufed by 
 the Turks, who bring them from Mecca. This tree, with its fruit and 
 leaves, is reprefented in the feventy-fecond and feventy-third plates : It 
 comes neareft to the palm of Brafil, with the folding or fan-leaf ; but, as 
 it branches out into feveral limbs, it differs from any that I can find have 
 ever been defcribed : I have therefore call'd it the Thebaic palm. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Of the Animals of Egypt. 
 
 '"■ ''HERE are not a great variety of four-footed beafts in Egypt. 
 The tyger, the Dubber, or Ahena are very rare, except that there 
 are fome few near Alexandria. The fox and hare are of a light 
 colour ; the latter are not very common. About Alexandria, and in other 
 parts, the antelopes are common ; they have longer horns, and are more beau- 
 tiful than the antelopes of other countries. The animal call'd by Europeans 
 Pharaoh's rat, has been thought to be the Ichneumon. In the deferts, as I 
 went to Suez, I faw the holes of an animal call'd Jerdaon, which I thought 
 might be it ; but I omitted to be fully inform'd about it : 'Tis faid, they 
 are in all parts of Egypt. The milch kind are large and red, with very 
 fhort horns, fuch as are commonly reprefented in antient facrifices ; they 
 make ufe of them to turn the wheels with which they draw water, and 
 to plow their land; they have alfo a large Buffalo, which is not mifchie- 
 vous, as the fmall fort in Italy. They are fo impatient of heat, that they 
 ftand in the water with only their nofes out to breathe ; and, where they 
 have not this convenience, they will lie all day wallowing in mud and wa- 
 ter, like fwine. In Cairo, all but the great people mount affes; they are 
 a fine large breed, and it is faid there are forty thoufand in that city. 
 
 It hath been often obferved, how wonderfully the camel is fitted to travel Camels; 
 through deferts in hot countries, where they will go eight days without 
 water. 1 have been a witnefs of their travelling four days without drink- 
 ing. They can live on fuch little fhrubs as thofe deferts produce, without 
 grafs, and are fatisfied with a very little corn, which travellers commonly 
 carry ground into meal ; and, tempering it with water, they cram them 
 with large balls of it. They go about two miles, or two miles and a half, 
 in an hour, and I have travelled on them fixteen hours without flopping. 
 A fmaller fort, call'd Hayjin, pace and gallop very fwiftly ; and it is con- 
 fidently amrm'd, they will carry one perfon a hundred miles in a day. 
 Thefe feem to be what we call dromedaries, there being none of thofe 
 with two bunches, that I could ever be inform'd of, in thefe countries ; 
 
 and 
 
2 o8 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 -and I have fince been told, that they are a breed of Tartary, for the people 
 here never heard of them. The Arabs do not kill the camel for food, but 
 the great Turks eat the flefh of the young camel, as a moft delicate difh; 
 but will not permit it to be eaten by Cbriftians, probably that the breed 
 may not be deftroy'd. Before the great heat comes on, they have a me- 
 thod of preparing them againft it, by befmearing their bodies, to preierve 
 them againft the effects of the heat. The flefhy foot is admirably well 
 fitted for travelling on the hot fands, which would parch and deftroy the 
 hoof ; and it is faid, before they begin a long journey, in which they will 
 be obliged to go feveral days without water, they accuftom them to it by 
 degrees, before they fet out, by keeping them from drinking. 
 Horfes. 'j'hg h or f es here are very fine, efpecially thofe of upper Egypt, being of 
 the Arab and Barbary race. They have one great fault, which is, that their 
 necks are generally too fhort ; and they value horfes here as they do their 
 women, for the largcnefs of their bodies. They are wonderfully trafla- 
 ble : Their four legs are always trammelled, in the ftable and field ; 
 they do not feem to know that they can kick ; they walk well, never trot, 
 and gallop with great fpeed, turn fhort, and flop in a moment ,■ but they 
 are only fit to walk in travelling, cannot perform long journies, and they 
 ufually flop and give them water every hour or two, and very feldom feed 
 them more than once in a day When they go in procefllon, their trap- 
 pings are exceeding fine ; the ornaments are of filver, or filver gilt, it be- 
 ing contrary to their law to ufe gold, even fo much as for rings, unlefs for 
 the women, whofe dowry, as 1 obferved before, confifts in thofe things, 
 which they wear as ornaments. In the heat of fummer, when there is no 
 grafs, they give their cattle chopped ftraw. They fpread out the corn, 
 when reap'd, and an ox draws a machine about on it; which, together 
 with the treading of the ox, feparates the grain from the ftraw, and cuts 
 the ftraw. It is a piece of timber like an axle-tree, which has round it 
 three or four pieces of thin fharp iron, about fix inches deep, which cut 
 the ftraw. In Syria, they often tread out the corn with oxen only, and 
 then, if they would cut it, an ox draws over the ftraw a board about fix 
 feet long, and three wide, in the bottom of which are fix'd a great num- 
 ber of fharp flints; the perfon that drives round the ox, ftanding on this 
 inftrument. 
 
 Reptiles. Among the reptiles, the vipers of Egypt are much efteem'd in phyfick ; 
 
 they are yellowifh, of the colour of the fand they live in, and are of two 
 kinds, one having a fort of horns, fomething like thofe of fnails, but of 
 a horny fubftance : They are the Ceraftes of the antients. The lizard alio 
 is yellow ; and in the deferts towards Suez, they have a fmall lizard dif- 
 ferent from the common kind, having a broader head and body than the 
 others. They have alfo the Stinc Marin in great abundance ; and about 
 the walls there is a very ugly lizard, which is fomething like a crocodile. 
 Thefe are in great quantities about the walls of Alexandria. As to theWorral, 
 having procured one alive, I could not perceive that it is affeded with mu- 
 fick. It is of the lizard kind, four feet long, eight inches broad, has a 
 forked tongue, which it puts out like a ferpent, and no teeth ; living on flies 
 and lizards. It is a harmlefs animal, and is found only during the hotteft 
 feafons, and frequents grottos and caverns in the mountains on the weft 
 of the Nile, where it fleeps during the winter feafon. 
 
O N E G Y P T. aop 
 
 The oftrich ought to be mention'd firft among the winged tribe of the 
 country ; it is call'd in Arabic Ter Gimel, and in modern Greek Xrgsbo- 
 m^iriXoQ, both fignifying the camel bird, by reafon that its neck and head, 
 and likewife its walk are fomething like the Camel's. This bird is common 
 on the mountains, fouth weft of Alexandria ; the fat of it is fold very 
 dear by the Arabs, and is ufed by the doctors as an ointment for all cold 
 tumours, is good for the palfy and rheumatifm ; and, being of a very hot 
 nature, is fometimes prefcribed to be taken inwardly, for difbrders of cold 
 conftitutions. As thefe birds are in the deferts beyond Alexandria, fo the 
 Arabs bring much of it to that city, and they have a method of putting the 
 dead body of an Oftrich in motion in fuch a manner, as to make the fat 
 diffolve into a fort of oil, which they fell as a drugg, and is call'd The fat 
 of the oftrich. They have a kind of domeftic large brown hawk, with a 
 fine eye, which moftly frequents the tops of houfes ; and one may fee the 
 pidgeons and the hawks ftanding clofe to one another. They are not birds 
 of prey, but eat flelfi when they find it : The Turks never kill them, and 
 feem to have a fort of veneration for thefe birds, and for cats, as well as 
 their anceftors; among whom it was death to kill either of thefe animals. It 
 has been commonly faid, that a legacy was left by fome great Mahometan, 
 to feed thefe animals in Cairo every day, and that even now they regale 
 them with fome of the entrails of beafts, that are kill'd for the fhambles ; 
 but on enquiry I found this to be a miftake. The antient Egyptians, in 
 this animal, worfhipped the fun, or Ofiris ; of which the brightnefs of its 
 eyes were an emblem. They have alfo a large white bird, with black 
 wings, fhaped like a crow, or raven, but very ugly, and not at all fhy; it 
 lives much in the fame manner as the hawk, and is call'd by Europeans 
 Pharaoh's hen. They have likewife a beautiful white bird, like a ftork, 
 but not half fo big, call'd by Europeans The field hen, being feen about 
 the fields like tame fowl. The fmall brown owl, mention'd by Herodotus, 
 about the fize of a pidgeon, is very common. They have likewife a fmall 
 fpeckled bird, near as big as a dove, call'd Ter Chaous (the meflen- 
 ger bird) which would be efteem'd a beautiful bird, if it were not very com- 
 mon, and a foul feeder : It has on the top of its head a tuft of feathers, 
 which it fpreads very beautifully whenever it allights on the ground. In the 
 mountains there are a great number of vulturs, and fome eagles. Among 
 the birds worfhipped by the Egyptians, the Ibis was had in great venera- 
 tion, becaufe, as it is faid, they deliver'd the country from a great quan- 
 tity of Serpents, which bred in the ground after the Nile retired. It is of 
 thefe and the hawks, (among the birds that the embalmed bodies are 
 chiefly found preferved in earthen vafes : I faw the figures of them on the 
 temples in upper Egypt ; and from the defcription we have of them, they 
 are of the crane kind. I faw a great number of this fort of birds on the 
 iflands in the Nile, being moftly greyifh. Herodotus defcribes two kinds ; 
 the black, which I never faw, and the other with black wings and tail, 
 which feems to be a fort of ftork : Thefe I have feen, tho' the moft com- 
 mon are a greyifh kind. There is a very beautiful bird of this fort, call'd 
 Belfery : The male has a black beak and leg, and black feathers about the 
 wings ; they have a large crooked bill, with which they can take their food 
 only out of the water. The legs, bill, and eyes of the female are a fine 
 Vol. I. H h h red; 
 
OBSER V A TIONS 
 
 red ; and in the wings and tail are intermix'd fome red feathers, which 
 make it very beautiful, efpecially when it fpreads its wings. 
 
 They have great numbers of wild geefe of a different kind from thofe 
 in Europe: They are call'd Bauk; and when they are fent into England, 
 are known by the name of Baw-geefe. Great quantities of wild ducks fre- 
 quent the pools in low grounds, which are not dry till two or three months 
 after the Nile has left the upper lands. Quails are in great abundance. 
 They have the woodcock, fnipe, and Beccafigo ; which laft is much e- 
 fteenVd. A wild brown dove frequents the houfes, which being very fmalL 
 is not deftroy'd. The pidgeon-houfe is reckon' d a great part of the eftate 
 of the hufbandman: They are often built round, with little turrets riling 
 up all over the top, and add to the beauty of the profpect of a country 
 village. The different forts may be feen in the eighth plate: G. fuch as are 
 at Delta ; E. thofe of Benefuief, and F. thofe about Akmim. They have 
 a proverb or faying, That a man, who has a pidgeon-houfe, need not be 
 careful about the difpofal of his daughter. The partridge in this country 
 is very different from that of other parts ; the feathers of the female are 
 like thofe of a woodcock, and the male is a beautiful brown bird, of the 
 colour of fome wild doves, but adorn'd with large fpots of a lighter co- 
 lour: They are about the fize of a fmall dove. They have no pheafants 
 in Egypt. The bats in the old buildings are remarkably large, and from 
 the end of one wing to the end of the other, many of them are in extent 
 above two feet, if the account I had be true. 
 
 If 1 was rightly inform'd, they have an extraordinary cuftom in relation 
 to their bees in upper Egypt. They load a boat with the hives, at a time 
 when their honey is fpent ; they fall down the ftream all night, and take 
 care to flop in a place by day, where the diligent animal may have the op- 
 portunity of colle&ing its honey and wax ; and fo, making a voyage of fix 
 weeks or two months, they arrive at Cairo, with plenty of honey and wax, 
 and find a good market for both. There is another ftory, the truth of 
 which may be much fufpe£ted, relating to a manner of catching ducks on 
 the river ; which is by putting the head into a pumpkin Ihell, and walking 
 in the river, only with the head above water cover'd in this manner ; the 
 duck not being alarm'd at the light of a pumpkin, the man approaches 
 the game, and takes them by the legs. 
 
 A DE- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 2.II 
 
 A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 O F 
 
 The EA ST, &c. 
 
 BOOK V. 
 
 Mifcellaneous Subjects, chiefly relating to 
 the Antiquities and Natural Hiftory of 
 Egypt. 
 
 chap. I. 
 
 Of fome Antiquities and antient Weights brought from 
 
 Egypt. 
 
 THE two ftatues of Ills and Ofiris, reprefented in the fixtieth and 
 three following plates were in the houfe of an Italian merchant at 
 Cairo, who could give no account from what part they came, but 
 was fo obliging as to part with them. They are of a very clole free ftone ; 
 the ftatues as they fit, are about two feet high, that of Ifis is about half 
 an inch higher than the other ; the plinth of the ftatue of Ifis is four inches 
 and three quarters thick, the other only four; I never faw any ftatues or 
 drawings in fuch a pofture before, and, what is very remarkable, the E- 
 gyptians at this day will fit in this manner, without refting on any thing 
 but their hams, for an hour together, when they are abroad, or have not 
 the conveniency of a carpet to lit on. Thefe ftatues feem to be of fo great 
 antiquity, that it is probable they were made before fculpture came to its 
 greateft perfection in Egypt. They appear to be both cloathed with a gar- 
 ment that fits clofe to the body. Ifis is reprefented in the fixtieth and fixty- The (lame 
 firft plates: The ftatue of the goddefs,as it was proper, is of the finer work- of 
 manfhip; the feet are more delicate ; there is fomething beautiful in the make 
 
 of 
 
212 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of the body ; the woman's breafts plainly appear at the fide, and the body 
 might be thought to be reprefented naked, if it did not appear otherwife 
 at the ankles; however, it feenis to be an exceeding fine garment, fit- 
 ted clofe to the body ; it might be fomething like the gawze, which is 
 worn by the ladies at this day in the eaft for their under garments. Hie- 
 roglyphics are cut like an infcription on the robe that comes down before ; 
 the deep bracelets on the arms are very broad, and fhe has a fiftrum in 
 the left hand, on which is cut the head of Ifis, which has on it the ears 
 of the cat. It has three firings or wires, which are to be fuppofed loofe in 
 it, each end being bent on the outfide, to keep it in its place; on each of 
 them are two rings, which feem to be juft big enough to move about the 
 wire; on the upper firing there might be three; thefe are the rings that made 
 the mufick: It feems to have been an inftrument for beating time, like the 
 Nakous they ufe in Egypt at this day, which I have before defcribed. What 
 is on the head is an extraordinary drefs; perhaps made of leaves, which 
 are doubled one over another, as appears by the ends of the lower part ; 
 it is to be fuppofed that the Lote flower adorns the forehead. Something 
 very particular, like a Bulla, comes out from the ears, and might probably 
 hang on them ; the hair appears beneath this drefs on the forehead and 
 temples ; and all round behind, beneath the head-drefs, plaited as in the 
 other. It may be no great compliment to lay that in the beauty and de- 
 licacy of the workmanfhip, efpecially in the fide view, the artift has ex- 
 ceeded the Egyptian workman, who it may be lived three thoufand years 
 ago; though we are not to defpife fuch uncommon remains of antiquity, 
 but to fet a value on them ; as we fee in fuch pieces thefe noble arts in 
 their infancy; and by confidering the different workmanfhip of different 
 ages, we may obferve how arts gradually improved, till at length, under 
 the Greeks, they came to the greateft perfection, which their matters the 
 Egyptians were too opinionative to learn of their fcholars. 
 The flame 1 he ftatue of Ofiris, as it appears in the fixty-iecond and fixty third 
 of Ouris. pi ateS) i s diftinguifh'd by a fort of Thyrfus in the hand, as it feems to be ; 
 though fomething different from any thing of that kind ,• the hands come 
 through the garment in a very particular manner ; the fluting of what 
 muft be look'd on as the garment before, on which the hieroglyphics are 
 cut, may anfwer to fome manner of plaiting, and, if it be the garment, 
 and is reprefented after nature, it muft be in imitation of a very thick fluff, 
 as it ftands out at a diftance from the legs ; or fome art muft have been 
 ufed for that purpofe. The fattening of the fandals over the inftep is very 
 large, and appears on it like iron bolts; and, what is very extraordinary, the 
 fandal is not feen at bottom, fo that probably the leather or fole of the 
 fandal was antiently fo fmall as not to appear ; there is a delicacy alfo in the 
 feet of this figure. The manner of plaiting the hair is very extraordi- 
 nary in this ftatue, and there feem to be two or three plaits one over an- 
 other. It may be doubted, if what appears under the ears be hair, as it is 
 entirely finooth, and has not the fame appearance as the other, or whether 
 it was any mode of drefs ; it might be rather thought the latter, as it ap- 
 pears to prefs forward that which feems to be the lower part of the ear, for 
 fo much of the ear does not appear as to fliew the focket of it, thofe holes 
 feeming to have been cut after the ftatue was made. The hair likewife plaited 
 down the forehead is to be obferved ; and I have feen thofe of the Molotto 
 4 race 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 race in Egypt, lately come out of Ethiopia, who have their hair plaited 
 much in the fame manner, and coming over their foreheads. This fta- 
 tue has a pilafter to fupport it behind, on which there are hieroglyphics 
 cut. 
 
 The morfels of antiquity in the fixty-fourth plate, except one or two, 
 were found at Coptos. They are almoft all made hollow within of earthen 
 ware, and were poilibly the Lares, or houfhold Deities, of the common 
 people, hung up in their houles, a fort of amulets to defend them againft 
 evil; for moft of them have holes at the top for that purpofe: They are 
 reprefented pretty near the real fize of them, except that the entire figure, 
 which I fuppofe is a Priapus, is feven inches long ; it is in every other re- 
 fpect exactly as it is reprefented. The cap fomewhat refembles the turbant 
 without the fafh round it ; and yet it feems to join to a garment that flows 
 down behind, coming only over the left arm, fomething in the manner of 
 the eaftern cloak, with a coul, as the eafterns are fometimes reprefented 
 in drawings. He has a fort of Thyrfus in his left hand, and to the right 
 is a pot of flowers, the emblem of this garden God. The figure B. has 
 a very extraordinary head-drefs, and the hair tied up in a roll appears over 
 it. The hair of the figure C. is tied up in a rofe on the poll ; the orna- 
 ment feems to be a leaf, and may be the indented mulberry leaf. It is 
 doubtful what is the head-drefs of the figure D. I conjedure it to be the 
 lote flower. E. is much diftorted both before and behind, and one would 
 imagine it to reprefent fome evil being. F. is a very elegant double 
 head of Ifis, being cut exaclly the fame on both fides ; it is of a brown 
 ftone, painted with a beautiful green. The manner of the hair, the gar- 
 ment, and an ornament up from the moulder to the fide of the head, 
 which, though it is broke,, appears to have continued on to another orna- 
 ment over the head, which is gone, arp all Co be particularly taken no- 
 tice of. It appears to have had no arms, the work ending at the fhoulder, 
 and fo probably was a ftnall buft, or might be placed on fomething as an 
 ornament. G. is of a black ftone, and is a very rude unfmifh'd groupe ; 
 but perhaps may be the only piece of antiquity of the kind, reprefenting 
 the fight of a pigmy and a crane, which appears from the proportion they 
 bear to one another. I do not know what head the figure H. reprefents; 
 it fomewhat refembles that little amulet, fo frequently found in Egypt, 
 that is like a horfe's head, a drawing of which may be feen near it in the 
 fame plate. I. in bronze, feems to be a flave at fome work; it is the moft 
 humble pofture they fit in at this day, and inferior perfons fit in this man- 
 ner before great men; and poflibly from this the fupplicant pofture of 
 kneeling might have its rife. 
 
 The ftatue of Harpocrates, of the fame fize, as reprefented in the fixty- 
 fifth plate, is in the pofleffion of Dr. Mead, and was lately brought from 
 Egypt. It is of a white ftone or marble ; I bought exadlly fuch a one at 
 Coptos, only rough hewn out ; it has the high cap, part of which tliis 
 has loft; the ornament on the forehead may be the lote flower. There are 
 feveral things to be particularly remarked about it, as the beads round the 
 neck, and a Bulla hanging down from them ; the firing of beads on the 
 other fide is not at prefent to be feen. The ornament about the upper 
 part of the arm, and that under the beads, one would imagine, were de- 
 figned as a fort of covering of the breaft, being altogether extraordinary, 
 Vol. I. I i i and 
 
£14 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 and it poflibly may be fomething emblematical ; there are alfo bracelets on the 
 vvrifts, which feem to have been adorn'd with beads ; in the right hand he 
 holds the crofs, which is fo common in the Egyptian hieroglyphics. As the 
 ftatue is made with one leg before the other, and it was neceffary to give 
 a fide view to fhew thefe ornaments, the other foot could not be fhewn, 
 and it does not appear to that advantage it would do otherwife. The 
 hair is plaited and brought to the left fide, as in moft of the ftatues of 
 Harpocrates. Among the feals I found in Egypt (the moft remarkable of 
 which are in this plate) there are four or five of the Abraxas kind, ufed 
 by the Gnoftics, being a mixture of Paganifm and Chriftianity ; they have 
 generally a legend on the reverfe, and are of no great confequence. Two 
 of the feals moft remarkable are of very bad workmanfhip, one may be 
 an aftronomer; on the other, which has very particular characters on it, 
 one feems to be playing on a mufical inftrument, and another holds fome- 
 thing very particular in his hands, which it may be difficult to explain. 
 I met with ftveral other pieces of antiquity, but, as they are fuch as have 
 been defcribed before, I thought it of no ufe to give drawings of them. 
 
 I made a collection in Egypt of above fifty antient weights ; they are 
 moft of them of the common figure reprefented at A. in the fixty-fifth 
 plate; two of them are as reprefented at B. and one as at C. in the fame 
 plate. I weigh'd them all with great exadtnefs, and have herewith given 
 a table of them. 
 
 A Table of Weights found in Egypt. 
 
 N° 
 
 Oz. 
 
 
 Gr. 
 
 N° 
 
 Oz. 
 
 i->. 
 
 Gr. 
 
 N° 
 
 Oz. 
 
 d wc . 
 
 Gr. 
 
 I 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 19 
 
 I 
 
 14 
 
 
 36 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 23-f 
 
 J 9% 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 
 ' 20 
 
 I 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 37 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 '7 
 
 44 
 
 f 21 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 234; 
 
 38 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 J 3 
 
 Ifii 
 
 *22 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 39 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 
 a 5 
 
 4 
 
 1 1 
 
 ! 7 
 
 »-3 
 
 on 
 
 '9 
 
 224 
 
 40 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 * 6 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 24 
 
 00 
 
 19 
 
 22 ' 
 
 4i 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 25 
 
 00 
 
 '9 
 
 igi 
 
 42 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 
 18 
 
 1 1 
 
 26 
 
 00 
 
 19 
 
 104 
 
 43 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 9*. 
 
 9 
 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 27 
 
 00 
 
 J 9 
 
 2i 
 
 44 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 9i 
 
 10 
 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 00 
 
 '9 
 
 1 1 
 
 45 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 7i 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 18 
 
 i 
 
 29 
 
 00 
 
 19 
 
 s 
 
 46 
 
 00 
 
 9 
 
 34 
 
 12 
 
 
 J 7 
 
 22 
 
 3° 
 
 00 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 47 
 
 00 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 
 '7 
 
 i6i 
 
 3 1 
 
 00 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 48 
 
 00 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 
 ] 7 
 
 iZi 
 
 3 2 
 
 00 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 49 
 
 00 
 
 5 
 
 2ii 
 
 J 5 
 
 
 '7 
 
 2i 
 
 33 
 
 00 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 5° 
 
 00 
 
 5 
 
 ! 3* 
 
 7i 
 
 '16 
 
 
 l 7 
 
 2-i 
 
 34 
 
 00 
 
 18 
 
 184 
 
 5 1 
 
 00 
 
 5 
 
 »7 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 "35 
 
 00 
 
 16 
 
 7-5 
 
 5 2 
 
 00 
 
 1 
 
 
 '18 
 
 
 
 2 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Befides thefe, there is a weight of Verd antique, about an eighth of which 
 is broken off, and it weighed twenty-three ounces, twelve penny weight, 
 and eleven grains 5 fo that probably it was a weight of about twenty-eight 
 ounces. 
 
 * This is of iron, and of twelve fides, as re- 
 prefented in the fixty-fifth plate at B. it has fix 
 ltamps on each fide of the four fquare fides, and 
 one on each of the other fides. 
 
 b This weight is a flat octagon, it has feven 
 marks on one fide, and four on the other, and 
 two circles round each fide. 
 
 c This is of the fliape of number five, has five 
 flamps on the four fquare fides, and one on the 
 reft. 
 
 . d Is as number fix, but has a crofs on it, and 
 
 thefe letters r B. 
 
 e This is an octagon alfb, but feems older than 
 the other. 
 
 f This weight has twenty-four fides, excepting 
 the top and the bottom, and has two rings and a 
 ftamp on each of the twenty-four fides, as repre- 
 fented in the fixty-fifth plate at C. 
 
 « This is of Verd antique, and has thefe marks 
 on it y A- 
 
 h Is a fquare weight, has a crofs on it, and 
 [jf 3 tp, and does not fcem to be very antient. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the antient Architecture of Egypt. 
 
 ^ H ' H E architecture of Egypt may be look'd on as among the firft 
 § efiays in that noble art. It was in a ftyle peculiar to themlelves, in 
 which, notwithftanding, we may trace the origin of many things we lee 
 in the moft improved architecture. As the Egyptians boafted themfelves to 
 be the inventors of all arts and fciences, this gave them a ftiffnefs and 
 pride, which made them refufe to receive the improvements, the Greeks 
 and other nations made on their inventions ; fo that, excepting at Alexan- 
 dria and Antinoopolis, there is nothing to be feen in Egypt of the Greek 
 architecture. In fome places, we obferve this art in the greateft fimpli- 
 city, only contrived for ufe, and without any ornaments, and may fee how 
 it improved by degrees, and at kit arrived at fuch a perfection, as might 
 eafily give the hint to the Greeks for the Corinthian order, unlefs we fup- 
 pofe that they might imitate that order ; which I do not think probable, 
 as thefe temples feem to have been built before that order was ufed in 
 Greece, and alfo as the Egyptians feem to have thought themfelves above 
 imitating the inventions of other people ; for there feems to be nothing 
 approaching to any other order of architecture, unlefs the mouldings of the 
 capital B. may be thought a little to refemble the Doric. 
 
 The ground is fo much rifen, that I could not come to any certainty with 
 regard to the height of their pillars : And feveral members of them, and 
 of the cornices being inacceflihle heights, and fn fmall, that they could 
 not be determined by the quadrant, and having in truth, fometimes omit- 
 ted fome meafures I might have taken, on account of the hurry I was of- 
 ten obliged to do things in, and the interruptions I met with ; I could 
 not, for thefe reafons, give an exact draught of them by fcale, but to fup- 
 ply this defect, I have mark'd the feveral members, and given a table of 
 fuch meafures as I took of them. This will give an idea of the Egyptian 
 architefture ; and as it is by no means to be imitated, or made a fcience 
 of, fo a more exact account will he the lefs wanted, and more eafily ex- 
 cufed, when, under all the difadvantages of a traveller in Egypt, it would 
 have been producing fomething new, to have given draughts of them only 
 by the eye. 
 
 As the Egyptian buildings were cover'd with long ftones about three feet Coverings of 
 wide and deep, and fourteen feet long, this made a great number of pil- thebulld,n s s - 
 lars necefiary in all their cover'd buildings. If the pillars were next to the 
 wall in a portico, they laid a ftone from one pillar to another, by the 
 length of the portico, and then laid ftones acrofs from that ftone to the 
 wall, as may be feen in the fecond plate of pillars ; but, if there were ma- 
 ny rows of pillars in a room, they laid ftones acrofs the pillars, by the 
 breadth of the building, to give the room a lighter air, and then they laid 
 ftones on them, with which they cover'd the building by the length of the 
 room, and fometimes they placed a fquare ftone on the capital, to make 
 the room ftill higher; as may be feen in the drawing of the temple of 
 Ombus, in the fiftieth plate. 
 
 The 
 
ai6 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Bafes. The bafe or pedeftal of the pillar was round, the corners being taken off 
 
 at the edge ; it had a focket in it, to let in the pillar, as reprcfented in the 
 feet ion of the bafe. In the firft plate of pillars, there are very few of thefe 
 bafes to be feen ; that at Hajar Silcily, to a pillar two feet two inches dia- 
 meter at bottom, was four feet diameter, fo that it projected beyond the 
 pillar eleven inches, and was ten inches deep. As the manner of building 
 obliged them to have a great number of pillars, fo they might find this 
 kind of bafe moft convenient, as a fquare one would be more apt to break 
 at the corners, and offend thofe that walk'd in the temples; tho' it is very 
 probable, that many of their pillars, efpecially within their temples, were 
 without any bafe, for the conveniency of walking between them ; as the 
 pillars of the temples of Minerva and Thefeus, at Athens. It has been alffj 
 found out, that the obelifks were placed on fuch bafes or pedeftals, and let 
 into a focket, which made the railing of them much eafier than on a high 
 
 Pillars. pedeftal, as they are placed in Rome. The chief intention of pillars, in 
 Egyptian buildings, being to fupport a weighty covering, it was neceffary 
 they fhould be very ftrong: It is probable, in the moft antient times, they 
 might not have found out the ufe of granite, or the art of cutting it, which 
 is the only marble I obferved to be the product, of Egypt, and fit for making 
 pillars of one ftone, which could not be lefs than three or four feet dia- 
 meter, for the purpofe mentioned ; and it would have been very difficult 
 to have convey'd fuch pillars from the catarafts, where the granite quarries 
 are, to the feveral parts of Egypt. The freeftone they had near, in all their 
 hills, which they made ufe of for their columns, cutting out the ftones of 
 the diameter of the pillar, and from one foot fix inches, to three feet fix 
 inches in thicknefs. Thefe columns were from three feet to eleven feet 
 diameter ; and they were fo very thick, that I concluded, their height 
 might be from about three diameters, or at moft three and a half, to four 
 and a half. I had reafon to think that this was generally the height of 
 their pillars, tho' fometimes, but rarely, they were fix diameters in height, 
 and the intercolumnation one diameter and a half, or two, for the moft 
 part ; fometimes two and a half, and three, tho 1 very rarely. And, if in 
 the middle of a room, fome intercolumnations were wider, they procured 
 ftones of a proportionable length, to lay from pillar to pillar. The pil- 
 lars were often adorn'd with hieroglyphics, and thefe fometimes painted. 
 They had fome multangular pillars, tho' very rare ; and thofe confifting of 
 fixteen fides, as at the temple of Thebes, fomething refembling the antient 
 pillars I have feen fhaped in that manner, in order to be fluted; which 
 was the method the antients took to flute their columns, as I fhall have 
 occafion to mention in another place. One of the firft improvements 
 on plain pillars, were a fort of fwellings about feven feet from the top, and 
 leflening again towards the capital, which confifted only of a fquare ftone ; 
 inftances of which may be feen in the firft plate of pillars. It is pofiible, 
 this fort of fwelling, inverted, might give rife to the firft capitals made 
 in fhape of a bell. The next improvement feems to have been the addi- 
 tion below this of four members, being a fmall fegment of a circle, as in 
 Numb. 4. Poffibly thefe might give rife to the annulet in the capital, of 
 the Doric order ; by which name I fhall therefore call them. Another 
 manner of architecture was the working the upper part of the pillar, that 
 fwells out as defcribed, into eight half rounds. In fome pillars a fort of 
 « fhields 
 
ON EGYPT. ar 
 
 fhields cover the lower part of the joinings of thefe half rounds, as irl 
 Numb. 7. In others, two rows cover the joinings of two half rounds, and 
 the two next are cover d by a fhield, as above ; and fo all round alternate- 
 ly, as may be feen in Numb. 6. The lower part of that fort of pillars 
 is likewife divided into eight half rounds, which I conjectured, in fome; 
 to be about one third, in others two thirds of the pillar, according to 
 the length of the members, between this part and thofe I have mention' d 
 before ; for in fome pillars, above thefe, there are three fuch members, but 
 fmaller, over each of the great ones, as in Numb. 6. which is at Luxerein ; 
 in others, befides thefe three members, there is a larger over the joinings 
 of the lower member, as in Numb. 7. which, if I miftake not, is at the 1 
 temple, eaft of Carnack; and in the fifth, the triglyphs feem to be conti- 
 nued down, as under thofe members, with a particular lift coming down be- 
 tween them to the middle of the half rounds below ; and the fecond pil- 
 lar is work'd all the way down in fuch a manner, as this part of Numb. 7i 
 is executed ; that is, with three fmall half rounds, or rods, and one large 
 one. Another fort of pillars are thofe at Archemounain, in the twenty- 
 fourth plate. I obferved particularly, that they leffen'd towards the bot- 
 tom. The pillars at Hajar-Silcily are almoft the fame, and the only co- 
 lumns I faw entirely to the bottom ; thofe pillars are three feet diameter, 
 near four in the fwelling, and at bottom leflen to two feet two inches, and 
 may be feen in the forty-feventh plate. The pillar, Numb. 8. has the four 
 annulets under the capital, the reft being plain ; it is in the grand area of 
 the temple of Carnack, Numb. 0, and to. in the fecond plate of pillars, 
 are cut among the hieroglyphics on the gate that is north of the temple of 
 Carnack. Numb. 11, is at the temple eaft of Carnack, and I imagine it 
 to be fome imitation of the palm-tree. Thofe horizontal members, or 
 annulets, fomewhat refemble the tree when the boughs are cut off, and 
 therefore it would have been more like the palm-tree, if thofe members 
 had been continued all down ; and, if I am not miftaken, I have feen fuch 
 a drawing of a pillar in Egypt. Numb. 12. has this particular in it, 
 that the ftalks of the leaves, and thofe between them, are carried down 
 below the annulets of the pillars. Numb. 13. is a pillar of red granite, 
 at Baal-bait, the old Bufiris. I faw the capital, as reprefented, and a part 
 of the pillar, being work'd into a fort of a half round, in the manner that 
 is fhewn below the capital, and another part I faw of it being plain, I con- 
 jectured, that this might be part of the head-drefs of Ills, continued down, 
 as it is in the capital of Dendera. The capitals of the feven firft are only capitals, 
 a fquare ftone ; it is very probable, that a fquare ftone, at firft laid on the 
 pillars, to give the building a lighter air, might give rife to the capital. In 
 fome pillars, thefe capitals do not project at all, in others a very little: They 
 are from one foot to three feet thick. The capitals, of the bell kind, have 
 often been thought to be an imitation of a vafe fet on a pillar, with leaves 
 twining about it ; but a view of the capitals of Egypt, would incline one 
 rather to think, that it was the imitation of the top of a tree, and that pro- 
 bably the palm, the boughs of which point upwards, and much refem- 
 ble a capital, when all the lower boughs are cut off, as they are common- 
 ly every year, and poffibly the palm-trees, faid to be cut in Solomon's tem- 
 ple, might be pillars, or at leaft pila 1 ^' rs of this kind, fo much refem- 
 bling the palm-tree. The moit fimple foit of capitals of this bell kind, are 
 Vol. 1. K k k of 
 
218 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 of the great pillars in the temple of Luxerein, without any fillet, round 
 at the top, as reprefented at A. in the plate of capitals. The fecond fort 
 is that of the pillar Numb. i. which has the addition of the fillet, and is 
 feen at Carnack. Of the fame fort is the next to it, cut among the hiero- 
 glyphics of the gate north of that temple; and the next to that, cut like- 
 wife on the fame gate, is the mod fimple of the foliage kind. The third 
 capital C. in the plate of capitals, is of an extraordinary nature ; it is 
 poflible, the ornament may be in imitation of fome leaf or flower. The 
 only pillars of this kind are at Gaua. The fourth, D. is probably the firfb 
 manner of adorning the capital, being cut in lines, and without any re- 
 lief. The fifth, E. at the antient Siene, is of a particular kind ; and on part 
 of it, there is fomething like the ornament of that at Gaua: This and the 
 following, as well as fome others, are work'd at top in four fegments of a 
 circle ; and it may be confider'd, whether it were not in imitation of fome 
 leaf. The lixth, F. is at Efne, and is very beautiful, tho' the relief is very 
 flat ; and fo are many others in the fame temple. The feventh capital, G. 
 is of a very particular kind, and beautiful, and is feen only in the fmall 
 fquare temple at Philae. The large capital H. at Amara, the old Ten- 
 tyra, with the head of Ifis, and compartments of bas- reliefs over them, are 
 of excellent fculpture, and muft be reckon'd among the fineft workman- 
 fhip of Egypt ; each capital confifting of four fuch faces, one on each 
 fide, with the compartments of reliefs over them. I look upon them only 
 as two fquare ftones laid on the pillars, and adorn'd in this manner ; but, 
 from the great perfection of them, I fhould imagine they are the work of 
 a Greek hand ; the reliefs being in the higheft Greek tafte. The other 
 faces at Philae, over the capital, and the Deity cut on the fquare ftone, over 
 the capitals of a fmall temple at Amara, which is Numb. 14. of the pil- 
 lars, are only to be look'd upon as ornaments of thole ftones ; and the 
 capitals under them I met with in fome other places, not having taken 
 drawings of the particular capitals, that belong'd to thole pillars. 
 Entablature. Thefe ftones laid on the capital, feem to have given rife to the faces of 
 the architrave, (fo call'd from being the chief beam that fupported the co- 
 vering of the building,) and to the freeze, a ftone, or part of a ftone, that 
 ranged round the building, being adorn'd with fculptures of animals and 
 other things, was on that account, call'd by the Greeks and Latins Zopho- 
 rus, which was the name of the Zodiac; adorn'd, it may be, with the figns 
 of the Zodiac and other ornaments, encompaffing the building, as the Zodiac 
 the Heavens ; and probably it was this part of the tomb of Ofymanduas 
 that was adorn'd with a golden circle, three hundred and fixty-five cubits 
 in compafs, divided into fo many parts, to reprefent the days of the year, 
 with the riling and fetting of the ftars, and other things relating as well 
 to the Egyptian aftrology, as, to what was more real, the aftronomy, for 
 which they were fo famous. Some buildings being cover'd with two tier of 
 ftones, the under ftone probably was the freeze ; or, where there was only 
 one, the lower part of it might be left for that member, as the upper part 
 was always moulded into the cornice or Coronis, that crown'd the building j 
 and where two or three fingle ftones were placed over the capital, the 
 lowermoft being work'd with the feveral faces of the architrave, and the up- 
 per ones being the freeze, and cornice and the ftone, laid acrofs to fupport the 
 covering moulded into another cornice ; accounts for the fingle entablature 
 
 to 
 
ON EGYPT. 219 
 
 to every pillar, which has often a very beautiful effect: in archite- 
 cture. 
 
 Cornices, or ornaments round the top of their buildings, feem at firft Cornices 
 to have been very fimple, being probably only a ftone projecting all a- 
 long, beyond the reft of the building, as Numb. 1 . in the plate of cor- 
 nices. This at length was rounded, as Numb. z. and this round member 
 was often continued down the quoins of the building. This ftone on the 
 very top of the building, might afterwards be made thicker, and be work'd 
 in an inclined plane, fo as to end in a line at the wall below ; and, as a far- 
 ther improvement, this lower part might be hollow'd into a Cavetto, with a 
 fillet at bottom, that was afterwards improved into a half round: And this is 
 the moft univerfal cornice that was in ufe in Egypt, and is likewife feen cut 
 on the rocks and grottos about Jerufalem ; particularly on that which is call'd 
 The tomb of Zachariah. The Cavetto was fometimes fluted, and the 
 flutes alfo in fome were continued on to the lift over it, as Numb. 8. 
 and there are inftances of Cavettos fluted in this manner, without any 
 member over them ; of this kind is Numb. 9. The cornice, or entabla- 
 ture of the granite room, at the temple of Carnack, has a member or freeze 
 under the half round, ornamented in a peculiar manner, and a fillet un- 
 der it, work'd alfo as reprefented at Numb. 1 j. There are a great variety 
 of other cornices or entablatures, fome of which are in the manner of 
 two cornices, one over another; and freezes are frequently feen adorn'd 
 with hawks, and thofe dragons or ferpents, that are reprefented, as draw- 
 ing the car of Ceres. Numb. 19. with a fort of triglyphs, and metopes, ad- 
 orn'd with Pateras, and two fillets, ornamented with ftars, and a fecond 
 kind of freeze, or rather architrave, with the Crux anfata, and two hawks 
 fitting on each fide of the end of a fort of bow inverted is in the middle 
 of the infide of a gate, to the eaft of the great temple of Amara, the old 
 Tentyra. Moft of thefe cornices, that are particular, are feen only in one 
 place, efpecially thofe of Aflbuan, Kept, Luxerein, Amara, Numb. 15. 
 of Carnack, the Labyrinth, Efne, and Gaua. 
 
 The doors had generally a plain pilafter on each fide, and fometimes Doors." 
 a plain member, over the door, correfponded to it; but the moft com- 
 mon ornament over them is that cornice, which I obferved is moftly ufed in 
 Egypt. Some door-places have a half round on the outfide, taking off 
 the angles, and another at about the diftance of eighteen inches, as at the 
 angle of the pilafter. 
 
 As to the fculpture of the Egyptians, both of hieroglyphics and pillars, Sculpture 
 and the laft finifhing of their works; they feem to have been executed after 
 the building was completed, which made them work in their figures on 
 plain ftones, by cutting them in below the furface of the ftone, either with 
 a plain bottom, or with a relief, the higheft part of which confequently 
 muft be either on a level with the furface of the ftone, or fomething 
 lower. I faw a pillar unfinifh'd at the temple eaft of Carnack, and it 
 may be queftioned whether the multangular pillar was not defign'd to be 
 in fixteen half rounds, that being the method which they antiently took 
 in marking out pillars to be fluted ; and over the eaftern gate of Carnack, 
 1 faw a ftone left rough, as to cut out the winged globe, an ornament 
 which is feen fo often in all their buildings. We may fee alfo among the 
 Egyptians, what might have given rife to the arch, though there is great 
 
 reafon 
 
 1 
 
210 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 The arch, reafon to think they were ignorant of this curious and ufefulpart of archi- 
 tecture, as it was afterwards executed, becaufe it is hardly ever feen among 
 their buildings, I mean thofe covers made by the projection of feveral tiers 
 of ftone, one beyond another ; for, if thefe ftones had been only fhaped 
 each of them in a fegment of a circle, the arch would have been made, 
 and it is probable that the arch was this way hit on ; the only difference 
 between this architecture and that of the arch, feeming to be in laying the 
 upper ftones, efpecially the middle one, which is called the key ftone, that 
 being laid fiat on the two uppermoft tiers, whereas, in the arch, it muft 
 be put in between them : For the reft, making them lefs towards the outward 
 fuperficies than they are within, and laying the lower tiers fo as not 
 to project fo much, and the upper tiers more, the arch would be executed 
 only by lhaping the ftones in the manner aboranention'd. It is poflible, 
 that, at fome time the ftones in making fuch a covering might not be 
 laid level, and making an inclin'd plane on each fide at top, when they 
 came to clofe all, they might find it neceflary to hew a ftone to fit the place 
 in fuch manner, as to come near to the nature of a key ftone, and in time 
 they might come to make all the ftones bigger at one end than at the other, 
 as finding it to give ftrength to this fort of building. It is indeed pof- 
 fibie, that the arch might be firft invented by other accidents, as the rifing 
 of the ground of a city where the gates were made of very large ftones, 
 with ftrait tops, and there being occafion to have higher doors or gates, 
 they might make them more lofty, by cutting the top into an arch ; and 
 at Thebes in Greece, I faw a fmall gate that confifted of an arch only of 
 two large ftones, which might poffibly have been made higher in this 
 manner, after the building of the gate. In all Egypt I did not fee above 
 three or four arches, of which 1 have given an account in the relation of 
 the antiquities of this country; and I fuppofe them to have been made 
 after the Greeks came among them. It is the more furprizing they fhould 
 not hit on it, as they found out the fhell of the niche, which approaches 
 
 Private fo very near to it. Amidft all the publick magnificence of the Egyptians, 
 
 Buildings. , I , , . , , f . . °, ., ,. b/r > 
 
 there is great reafon to think that their private buildings were very mean, 
 and perhaps, their habitations in thofe antient early times, when thefe fum- 
 ptuous fabrics were erected, might be chiefly tents and grottos; there being 
 ho fign of private buildings all over the great extent, which antient 
 Thebes took up; and without doubt thofe Kings, who beftow'd fo much 
 on their temples and fepulchres, would likewife have erected magnificent 
 palaces for themfelves, if it had been the cuftom of the times ; of which, 
 doubtlefs, we muft have had fome remains ; but of this kind, only one is 
 mention'd, of which we have any certain account, and that is the laby- 
 rinth, which was deiign'd too for a public, as well as in fome manner, 
 for a facred ufe, as it had relation to the religion they profeffed. The 
 palace oi Memnon is indeed fpoken of at Abydus ; but the mention of it 
 is very flight, and there are no figns or traditions of any thing there, but 
 a temple. And this may account for the extreme magnificence of the pub- 
 lic buildings in Egypt, if we confider that all their expences were beftow'd 
 this way, to make their facred buildings the moft lafting and magnificent 
 that the art of man could poffibly execute. 
 
 I have hereto added the table of the meafures of the Egyptian pillars. 
 
 A Table 
 
 1 
 
ON EGYPT. 22t 
 
 A Table of the meafures of the Egyptian pillars, according as they are 
 engraved in two plates. The firft line of numbers refers to the pillars 
 in the plates ; the letters to the feveral members of the pillars ; the other 
 numbers being the meafures of feet and inches, anfwering to the num- 
 bers of the pillars, and the letters of the refpeftive numbers. 
 
 I 2 3 4 $ 6 7 8 9 101112 
 
 » ° O I 8 2 OO 2 o 3 02 3 7 4 I oo oo oo 
 
 b ° 7061030 5 06 4 4706 00 00 00 
 33 o 5 00 1 4 o 00 o 0003 00 00 00 
 
 d 
 
 00 
 
 o o 00 o 5 o 064 03 00 o 34 00 00 
 
 00 
 
 f o o 00 o o 08 o 64 
 
 00 o o 00 2 3 3 10 4 o o o 4 1 00 00 00 
 
 4 00 000041 00 00 00 
 
 g o o 00 o o 00 o o 7 00 000000 00 00 00 
 Diameter o 7611040050 000 803030 04 04 00 
 Suppofed -\ 
 modules / , 
 
 of half a (° o o 07 o 8 00 o o o 00 12 o 10 00 00 00 06 
 diameter.) 
 
 I meafured feveral parts of the pillars at Luxerein, to fee in what pro- 
 portion they leffen and fwell. 
 ^ Meafuring one on the half rounds below, it was ten feet nine inches in 
 circumference; on fome members higher, it was eleven feet; and on the 
 annulets, ten feet feven inches. 
 
 Another pillar was in circumference on the half rounds clofe to the ca- 
 pital, ten feet fix inches j lower, on the fwell, twelve feet five inches ; on 
 the annulets, ten feet four inches. 
 
 And in the furthermoft court, I find thefe meafures of one pillar in 
 inches 204, 231, 23 y, 241. Another pillar meafured at the annulets fe- 
 venteen feet, at the bottom of the half rounds, nineteen feet three inches, 
 at the top of the next half round members, nineteen feet five inches, and, 
 in the greateft fwell, twenty feet and one inch. 
 
 The great pillars at Luxerein, which belong to the capital D. are one 
 and thirty feet in circumference, and about that height above ground, 
 including the capital; and have a fquare plinth on the top of the capi- 
 tal, as thofe at Carnack, on which probably fome ftatues were placed, as 
 it may be fuppofed, they were on the capitals of the pillar of the grand 
 area at Carnack. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of the Mythology of the antient Egyptians. 
 
 AS the mythology, or fabulous religion of the antient Egyptians, may 
 be look'd on, in a great meafure, as the foundation of the Heathen 
 religion, in moft other parts ; fo it may not be improper to give 
 fome account of the origin of it, as it is deliver'd by the moft antient 
 authors, which may give fome light both to the defcription of Egypt, and 
 alfo to the hiftory of that country. We may fuppofe that the antients were 
 the beft judges of the nature of their religion, and, confequently, that all 
 interpretations of their mythology, by men of fruitful inventions, that have 
 v °l- I- L 1 1 no 
 
 1 
 
222 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 no fort of foundation in their writings, are forced, and fuch as might ne- 
 ver be intended by them, On the contrary, it is neceffary to retrench fe- 
 deral things the antients themfelves feem to have invented, and grafted on 
 true hiftory ; and, in order to account for many things, the genealogies and 
 alliances they mention, muft in feveral refpefis, be falfe or erroneous, and 
 feem to have been invented to accommodate the honours of the fame 
 Deities to different perfons, they were pleafed to deify, who lived at dif- 
 ferent times ; and fo they were obliged to give them new names, invent 
 genealogies, and fome different attributes ; which may account, in fome 
 meafure, for the fuppofition I make below, that Deities with different 
 names, all mean the feme objeft of worfhip, as the fun or moon, which 
 might be worfhipped firft as Ofiris and Ifis, when they were deified, or 
 under the name of fome others deified before them in the fame manner ; 
 for Diodorus fays, that the Egyptians learnt of the Ethiopians to have their 
 Kings for Gods, that is, to deify their Kings ; for it appears very plainly 
 from the antients, that their Gods were their good Kings, whom they dei- 
 fied. Herodotus, indeed, would add a dignity to thofe Deities, by laying, 
 that the Gods lived on the earth with men, and ruled over them. He 
 fpeaks of the three orders of Gods; the firft and oldeft were eight in num- 
 ber, among whom Pan was of the firft, as Hercules was of the fecond, and 
 Dionyfius of the third order. Diodorus Siculus indeed mentions celeftial 
 and terreftrial Gods ; under the former he reckons Ofiris, Ifis, Jupiter, 
 Vulcan, Ceres, the Ocean, and Minerva ; but fays there were alfo terreftrial 
 Gods of the fame name. Thefe celeftial Gods he makes to be the fun 
 and moon, the four elements, and the foul of the world, that enlivens all 
 things. Ofiris is the fun, Ifis the moon, Jupiter the enlivening force, 
 Vulcan fire, Ceres the earth, Ocean with the Egyptians was the Nile, Mi- 
 nerva the air ; and it is to be fuppofed that thefe, with Pan, mention'd 
 by Herodotus, made up the number of the eight firft Gods. It is alfo 
 thought, that one great foundation of this religion was worfhipping the fun 
 and the planets, and the figns of the Zodiac ; and fo they afterwards made 
 conftellations of their Kings, and gave the fun and the planets the names 
 of thofe they look'd on as their benefaaors ; and to the figns of the Zo- 
 diac the names of thofe animals they worfhipped, for the reafons men- 
 tion'd by the antients. Our author goes on to obfervc, that the Egyptians 
 had a right before any other people to thefe Gods (that is, as he muft be 
 underftood, to thofe whom they call'd by the names of their Kings) and 
 wives it as a reafon, why it may be fuppofed, that they dwelt moftly a- 
 momrft them, as Egypt only, of all countries, had cities built by the Gods, 
 and call'd after their names ; particularly of Jupiter, the fun, Hermes or 
 Mercury, Apollo, Pan, Eilethyia or Diana, whom we may fuppofe to be 
 the feme as Ifis or the moon, as Apollo is the fame with Ofiris or the fun; 
 though, according to fome hiftories, Apollo is made the brother of Ofiris, 
 doubtle'fs to anfwer fome particular fchemes in their mythology. He fays, 
 thefe Gods came down upon earth, and fometimes took on them the form 
 of facred beafts, fometimes of men, and fo were worfhipped in the ftiape 
 of the feveral beafts whofe forms they affumed. This turn they gave to 
 the worfhip of thefe Deities, in order to add a greater dignity to their reli- 
 gion ; whereas, in reality, they feem to be no other than their Kings and 
 great men deified, who, fome way or other, had conduced to make the 
 a life 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 life of mankind more comfortable and happy, by a proper ufe of the ele- 
 ments of nature in general, or of the celeftial bodies in particular, that 
 feem'd to have the greateft influence on the earth ; which they either be- 
 gan to worfhip under their names, or to worfhip their benefactors, they 
 had deified, and to give them the names of thofe things they had, by their 
 government or inventions, render'd fo beneficial to them : For he goes on 
 to give an account of the terreftrial Gods, who, he fays, by the ftrength of 
 their underftanding, and by their beneficence to mankind, had acquired 
 immortality, as a recompence of their extraordinary merit. Some of thefe 
 were Kings of Egypt; but they feem to have given the genealogy of 
 thefe Kings, as much as could be, in order to make it believed that the 
 celeftial Gods were different from them; and though I mail give an ac- 
 count of their genealogy, yet, notwithftanding, I conjecture part of it to 
 be mere fiftion, and that the truth is, fuch perfons did live at fome time 
 or other, but not juft as they fix it. However, thefe we muft fuppofe to 
 be the twelve Gods of the fecond rank, of which he only at firft mentions 
 the eight principal, the Sun, Saturn, Rhea, Jupiter, call'd alfo Ammon, 
 Juno, Vulcan, Vefta, and Mercury. He fays, the Sun reign'd firft in E- 
 gypt: Herodotus fays, Menes reigned firft, and that Pan was the oldeft 
 of the Gods, and, as Mendes was another name of Pan, poflibly Menes 
 and Pan may be the fame ; and alfo the celeftial Ofiris, which is the Sun. 
 But, if it be true, as Herodotus fays, that Menes built the temple to Vul- 
 can in Memphis; this may be an argument in favour of the priefts, who 
 affirm'd that Vulcan was the firft King. Ofiris, in this genealogical ac- 
 count of the Kings, is indeed alfo the fon of Jupiter and Juno, and faid 
 to be Bacchus. But as, under the name of Menes, he drained the coun- 
 try, and made lower Egypt habitable, by expofing the earth in proper 
 time to the kindly influence of the fun ; and, under that of Bacchus, cul- 
 tivated the vine, by the help of the fun, the juice of whofe fruit is fuch 
 a comfortable cordial to mankind ; and as, under the name of Mendes or 
 Pan, he might make fome orders for the more regular propagation of 
 mankind, and of animals for his ufe, all under the prolific influence of 
 the fun, fo the fame perfon or Deity might be worfhipped in different 
 places under different names and fbapes, according to the nature of the 
 particular virtues of the perfon they celebrated in thofe places. The 
 worfhip of the King of Egypt, who was called Vulcan, and of fire under 
 his name, was owing, as they fay, to an extraordinary accident ; a wood 
 happened to be fet on fire by lightning in the winter, and the King Hand- 
 ing by it, perceived that it gave a great pleafure to enjoy the warmth of 
 it, and took care to continue the ufe of fire, which we may fuppofe till 
 that time was unknown. 
 
 After thefe, Saturn reign'd, who married his filler Rhea, the fame with 
 Cybele or Magna Mater; though, in this genealogy, Ifis is faid to be her 
 daughter, who was the moon, or Diana, and had the city Bubaftus built 
 to her, Bubaftis being the Egyptian name of Diana; and on her tomb 
 fhe is reprefented as boafting that the city of Bubaftus was built in honour 
 of her +. Cybele feems to be much the fame as Diana of Ephefus, and Ifis, 
 among the celeftial Gods, is the moon; it is poffible that the moon might 
 
 f 'EjwoJ BiGas®* $ jreAir wWopj&i;. Diodorus i. p. 24. 
 
 be 
 
OBSERVATION S 
 
 be worfhipped under thefe three names, as having an univerfal influence 
 on all things. Some faid that Ofiris and Ins were the children of Saturn 
 and Rhea, but, according to others, Jupiter and Juno ; and, as Herodotus 
 fays, that the Egyptians did not know the name of Juno, this is a proof, 
 how much the invention of the antients was employed in the hiftory they 
 gave of their Gods ; and accounts for the inconfiftencies we meet with in 
 their relations of them. As both Minerva and Juno have been faid to be 
 the air, fo they might alfo be the fame Deities, under different names, and 
 likewife Eilethyia or Diana, though the daughter of Jupiter; for both 
 Juno and Diana are called Lucina, and may be the fame perfon. Diana 
 is faid to be the daughter of Jupiter by Latona ; poffibly Jupiter might 
 after marry his own daughter, who might then be called Juno, and her 
 mother Latona might be obliged to fly to Ortygia from the refentment of 
 Juno ; as thefe may likewife be the fame with Rhea, on the above fuppo- 
 fition ; and if it may be fuppofed to have been fo, all thefe alliances and 
 genealogies muft be look'd on as meer fictions ; and this Deity multi- 
 plied into fo many fhapes, muft then be only Rhea or Ills, or whoever was 
 the firft Deity of this kind, worfhipped afterwards under different notions, 
 and different names. 
 
 To Jupiter and Juno they give five children, Ofiris, Ifis, Typhon, A- 
 pollo, and Venus; and fo Juno might be called the mother of the Gods 
 (mater Deum) the title of Cybele ; and here they make Ofiris Bacchus, 
 and Ifis Ceres ; fo that Ifis might comprehend Rhea and Diana, Juno 
 and Ceres. By the name of Ceres, fhe was the inventrefs of tillage, as 
 Ofiris was of wine, under the title of Bacchus: Ifis alfo is faid to 
 have enacted laws for the government of mankind. Some fay Ofiris 
 founded Thebes, though others mention another founder of this city : 
 Our author fays, moreover, that he built a temple of extreme magnifi- 
 cence, to his parents Jupiter and Juno, and two golden temples, one to 
 celeftial Jupiter, the other to his father Jupiter Ammon. It is probable, 
 that one Jupiter was worfhipped long before this, and that Ofiris being 
 the fon of Ammon, both the father and fon might be deified; and, to 
 give a dignity to their new God, they might fay, he was the fon of Ju- 
 piter, diftinguifh'd by the title of his real father, who was worfhipped 
 under the fhape of a ram. As to the Jupiter of the Greeks, who was 
 father of Minos in Crete, both of them great Kings over fo fmall an ifland, 
 it was thought to be doing juftice to the merit of Jupiter, to make him the 
 chief of their Gods; that they might have Gods of their own; and to give him 
 the name by which they call the Egyptian Jupiter ; without doubt, a much 
 more antient Deity ; as Dsdalus, the architect of his fon, went to Egypt 
 to fee the labyrinth, in order to build one in Crete on the fame model. 
 Ofiris and Ifis were alfo great encouragers of arts, and of thofe who in- 
 vented weapons to kill wild beafts, and inftruments to till the land. Ofiris 
 being educated at Nifa in Arabia Fcelix, had the name of Dionyfus from 
 that place, and his father Dios ; here they fay he learnt the culture of the 
 vine. He had the greateft regard for Hermes or Mercury, a perfon of 
 great genius in inventing whatever might be for the conveniency of man- 
 kind : He firft corrected the language, and gave names to feveral things ; 
 it was he that invented letters, and alfo the lyre with three firings, and 
 taught the worfliip of the Gods, .and facrifices, all forts of manly exer- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 cifes, and a proper carriage and deportment of the body. He firft obferved 
 the order of the ftars, and the nature and harmony of founds. It was he 
 or fome other perfon after him, worfhipped under his name, that taught the 
 Greeks the art of fpeaking, (it maybefuppofed, with propriety and eloquence) 
 on which account they gave him the name of Hermes. It was Mercury, 
 and not Minerva, as the Greeks affirm, that found out the ufe of the olive; 
 and he was in fo great favour with Ofiris, that he was his fecretary, it 
 may be rather faid his prime minifter, to whom he communicated every 
 thing, for his advice. Ofiris raifed a great army to go over the earth, to 
 communicate his improvements to all the world, hoping to gain immortal 
 honours by his benevolence towards mankind, as it accordingly happen'd; 
 for he was worfhipp'd as a God, by thofe whofe lives he had render d fo 
 much more happy than they were before. He left to Ifis the care of his 
 kingdom, and appointed Mercury to be her counfellor; he alfo left his 
 relation Hercules general over all his dominions, appointing Bufiris guar- 
 dian of the parts towards the fea fide, and Phoenicia; and Antaeus of Ethi- 
 opia, and Libya. Ofiris was accompanied by his brother Apollo, as he is 
 call'd by the Greeks; he was the propagator of the bay, as Ofiris was of 
 the ivy, for which reafon thofe trees are facred to thefe Gods, and it is to 
 be obferv'd, that the trees that are confecrated to them, are ever-greens, as 
 the myrtle to Venus, and the olive to Minerva. It is faid, Ofiris had for 
 his companions in war, Anubis and Macedon. They wore the Ikins of 
 thofe animals they fomewhat refembled in courage, Anubis wearing the 
 dog's (kin, and Macedon that of the wolf ; on which account thofe beafts 
 are efteemed facred in Egypt, and in time came to be worfhipped. He 
 took Pan alfo with him, whom we may fuppole to be a different perfon 
 from the other before-mentioned ; one of his names was had in great 
 veneration in Egypt, his ftatues being in every temple, and a city built to 
 him. He carried likewife husbandmen with him ; Maro for cultivating 
 the vine, and Triptolemus to teach the manner of fowing and reaping the 
 corn. Thus accompanied, he went into Ethiopia. In this country fatyrs 
 were brought to him, cover'd with hair; for Ofiris was a lover of mirth, 
 and of mufick and dancing, and always carried with him a band of mu- 
 fic, in which there were nine virgins, who were excellently well (kill'd 
 in vocal mufick, as well as learned in other fubjedts, and were therefore 
 call'd by the Greeks the Mufes ; -Apollo prelided over them. 
 
 Ofiris met with no oppolition, being receiv'd every where as a God, 
 for his beneficence towards mankind. He improv'd Ethiopia by agriculture, 
 and building cities, and left in it officers to colleft the tributes. Whilft 
 he was here, there happen'd in Egypt a great inundation of the Nile, 
 which did particular damage in that part of Egypt, that was under the 
 care of Prometheus, who was on this account near laying violent hands on 
 himfelf. The river, by reafon of the rapidity of its courfe, and the vio- 
 lence of its waters, was call'd the Eagle. Hercules, always afpiring at 
 great things, and zealous to fhew his extraordinary ftrength, made up 
 the dikes, and kept the river within its bounds, on which account the 
 Greeks, fays Diodorus, invented the fable, that Hercules kill'd the eagle, 
 that was feeding on the liver of Prometheus. It is faid, the river was 
 after call'd the Nile, from Nileus a King of Egypt. Ofiris going into 
 Thrace, Maro founded the city Maronea, and Macedon, the Macedonian 
 Vol. I. M m m empire i 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 empire. He fent Triptolemus into Attica to teach the inhabitants agricul- 
 ture. Ofiris carried his arts every where, and, if any country was not capable 
 of bearing wine, he taught them to make a liquor of barley, not much in- 
 ferior to wine, either in ftrength or flavour. After Ofiris's death, divine ho- 
 nours were paid to him. It was long kept as a fecret that he was kill'd by 
 Typhon, who would have feized on his dominions; but Ifis, with her fon 
 Horus, vanquifhed Typhon near Antaeopolis. Typhon had divided the body 
 of Ofiris into twenty-fix parts, and diftributed them to his accomplices ; all 
 thefe Ifis found, and inclofed each of the pieces within a painted figure 
 of a body, compofed of wax and aromatic fpices ; thefe fhe delivered to 
 diftinft bodies of priefts, under great fecrecy, to be buried; enjoyning 
 them to pay divine honours to Ofiris, and to confecrate fome particular 
 animal to him, and when it died, to bury it in the fame manner; thus 
 they continued the fame honours to the confecrated animals; and the fa- 
 cred bulls, call'd Apis and Mnevis, becaufe they were fo ufeful in agri- 
 culture, were worfhipp'd in Egypt. From this account we may fee the 
 reafon why Ofiris was worfhipp'd in the fhape of a mummy, and that his 
 ftatues are feen fo common in that figure, and alfo why fo many facred 
 animals were worfhipp'd in Egypt. From this alfo, probably, the cuftom 
 took rife of embalming their dead bodies, forming them in the fame fi- 
 gure, and honouring the relidrs of their relations in the fame manner, as 
 the feveral pieces of Ofiris were preferved. 
 
 If we examine into the rife of the fables relating to the births of fe- 
 veral of the Deities faid to have been begotten likewife by Deities, we fhall 
 find it had no other foundation, than the lewdnefs or adulteries of the rela- 
 tions of great perfons, who had people about them to invent ftories to cover 
 the difhonour of their families. Of this nature was the fable of Semele 
 and Bacchus, not to mention feveral others, from the accounts we have by 
 their own authors. And Deities, which, in the idea of the Heathens, fub- 
 fifted before, were made to be born long after. For the fame purpofe 
 the Greek Hercules was fuppofed to be begotten by Jupiter on Alcmena, 
 to cover her adultery, when fhe brought forth a fon at an improper time, 
 during the abfence of her husband Amphitryo in the wars. The lewd- 
 nefs of Io daughter of Inachus, King of the Argives, is another inftance 
 of this kind, who proving with child by a mariner, and, it is faid, going 
 into Egypt in a fhip that had a bull painted on it, all that ftory of her 
 being transformed into an heifer, and of the loves of Jupiter, was invent- 
 ed, and that fhe went into Egypt and there recover'd her firft fhape, and 
 was married to Ofiris ; and, upon this very ftory, Diodorus f takes occa- 
 fion to make reflections on the great difagreement there was in relation 
 to the hiftory of their Gods ; that the fame Deity was call'd by fome Ifis, 
 by others Ceres ; by fome Thefmophorus, by others the Moon ; by fome 
 again Juno, and that others call'd this Deity by all thefe names : That 
 they call'd Ofiris fometimes Serapis, and fometimes Bacchus, at other times 
 Pluto, fometimes Ammon, at others Jupiter, and often Pan ; and fome 
 faid, that Serapis was the Pluto of the Greeks ; there being in reality, very 
 little foundation in truth for thefe things, but almoft all thefe ftories have 
 had their rife from the inventions of men on different occafions; which 
 
 f Diodorus i. p. 22. 
 
 is 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 is the caufe of fuch variety and difagreement in the accounts of the my- 
 thology of the Heathens. 
 
 Horus was fon of Ofiris and Ifis, who, being taught the art of prophecy 
 and phyfick by Ifis, was called Apollo; fo that we have Apollo both 
 brother and fon to Ofiris. The giants alfo, confirming of many bodies, 
 are faid to have rifen in the time of Ofiris, whofe minifters were reprefented 
 as whipping them ; and for this reafon, the ftatue of Ofiris is often feen 
 with a whip, as the punifher of the wicked. It is alfo remarkable, that 
 Ifis behaved in fo prudent and wife a manner after the death of Ofiris, that 
 the Queens of Egypt, were from that time, ever had in greater honour than 
 the Kings, and were invefted with higher power ; and, in the marriage 
 fettlements among private perfons, that polite claufe ufed to be added, that 
 all things fhould be under the direction of the lady f. And, as it has been 
 judged that all the mummies that have been found about Saccara, which 
 was near Memphis, are female bodies, it is poffible on the burial of Ifis in 
 a chapel in the grove of Vulcan at Memphis, all women might be confe- 
 crated to this Deity, and be buried in thefe catacombs, as near as conve- 
 niently they could be to the Goddefs, and have their coffins, by a particu- 
 lar difpofition, made fo as to reprefent Ofiris, which might be another 
 foundation for the future regards that were to be paid them. And pof- 
 fibly the bodies of the men might be depofited in another part, perhaps in 
 the grottos to the eaft of the Nile ; and the honours that were paid to them 
 might not be fo great in preferving them, and, for that reafon, they may 
 not have continued fo long. But thefe are only conjectures, for which it 
 is certain we have no foundation in antient authors. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the antient Hieroglyphics of the Egyptians. 
 
 HEROD OTUS faysj the Egyptians ufed two forts of letters, or 
 ways of writing ; one call'd facred, the other vulgar letters *. Dio- 
 dorus gives a more particular account, tho' in fome parts obfcure. 
 He fays, the Egyptians learnt the form of their letters, or writing, from 
 the Ethiopians ; for of the Egyptian letters, or manner of writing, one was 
 vulgar, which all people learnt ; others were call'd facred, which the priefts 
 only knew among the Egyptians, learning them of their fathers, among 
 thofe things which were to be kept fecret ; but the Ethiopians ufed all thefe 
 letters or ways of writing indifferently: So that one would imagine, the 
 Ethiopians either had two alphabets, or that they had two ways of writing 
 moft things, but that of thefe the Egyptians ufed one commonly, and the 
 other only in their facred writings. So that it was rather the unlawfulnefs, 
 than any impoffibility of obtaining a knowledge of thefe letters, that kept 
 them from reading their facred writings, as they could, perhaps, have learnt 
 them of the Ethiopians, if we fuppofe they were exactly the fame ; but it 
 
 -f Ai* Si -zewrxi t«; airiat xwWe^Giiva* [tafyv®* pxZltov cZvrccvIa nr«9«^^V«v rij yaunpevti. Diodorus, 
 
 It, 7SC.p£ Toft iJlWTOSIS VM&iVM T«V J/UmWitaS Toil'tffOf * AltpCtftOlffl cfe ^gE«v7«r x) TaJ jKfV 
 
 h t»j Tflf z^oucoV evvyf^cip^' TZ^acopQhoyxvlm t«w yx- cunm t« Si J»j|we7iy.flt x«?im«i. Herodotus ii. 
 
 c. 36. 
 
 is 
 
228 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 is poffible, that the Egyptians, having learnt the art of writing of the Ethio- 
 pians, might afterwards alter the letters or marks, that flood for words, 
 that the Ethiopians themfelves might not be able to read them, although 
 the languages of both nations might be the fame: He afterwards fpeaks of the 
 Ethiopian letters, call'd by the Egyptians hieroglyphics; he fays, that at 
 firft their forms of writing reprefented all forts of beafts, the parts of the 
 human body, and inftruments, efpecially thofe of the handicrafts; for 
 their writings did not confift of fyllables put together, but of figures that 
 related to the things they were to exprefs ; for they wrote or drew the fi- 
 gure of a hawk, a crocodile, a ferpent, the eye, hand, or face of a man, 
 and the like. A hawk fignified all things that were to be done expediti- 
 oufly, (1 fhould rather think expedition itfelf) becaufe it is the fwifteft of 
 birds. The crocodile fignified malice; the eye exprefs 'd both an obftrver 
 of juftice, and a keeper of any perfon : The right hand, with the fingers 
 extended, fignified any one's getting his livelihood: The left hand fhut, 
 the preferving and keeping of any thing. Thus every thing was read and 
 underftood by figures. This feems to have been the hieroglyphical man- 
 ner of writing ; but it is to be doubted, if the common way was not by 
 fingle letters compofing fyllables. The form of letters is arbitrary, and 
 each letter, as conjectured by fome, might be the refemblance of an ani- 
 mal; efpecially as the names of fome antient letters are the names of 
 beafts. The capital Armenian letters are now actually reprefented by beafts, 
 without any fimilitude of the letter added to it, as I faw in their gram- 
 mar, printed by the Propaganda Fide. 
 
 Mofes, who was fkill'd in all the learning of the Egyptians, without 
 doubt, underftood their manner of writing ; and, if the letters reprefent- 
 ed animals, he muft have compofed a new alphabet, when the law forbid 
 them to make the likenefs of any thing, that is, we are to fuppofe of any 
 living creature, or of any of thofe luminaries that were worfhipped in the 
 Heathen world. The figures ftanding for letters could not be above forty 
 or fifty. It may be confider'd alfo, how many of thefe there muft be, if 
 they flood for fyllables, which would feem to be a more difficult way of 
 writing than putting figures for words, which by the refemblance would very- 
 much help the memory; an advantage that could not be had, if certain 
 figures flood for fyllables. If hieroglyphical figures flood for words or 
 founds that fignified certain things, the power of hieroglyphics feems to be 
 the fame as of a number of letters compofing fuch a found, that by agree- 
 ment was made to fignify fuch a thing. For hieroglyphics, as words, feem 
 to have flood for founds, and founds fignify things ; as for inftance, it 
 might have been agreed, that the figure of a crocodile might ftand for 
 the found that meant what we call malice: The children of the priefts 
 were early taught, that the figure of a crocodile flood for fuch a found, and, 
 if they did not know the meaning of the found, it would certainly ftand 
 with them for a found ; though, as the found, it fignified alfo a quality or 
 thing; and they might afterwards be taught the meaning of this found ; as 
 words are only founds, which founds we agree fhall fignify fuch and fuch 
 things ; fo that to children, words only ftand for founds, which relate to 
 fuch things as they know nothing of ; and, in this fenfe, we fay children 
 learn many things like parrots, what they do not underftand, and their me- 
 mories are exercifed only about founds, till they are inftrudted in the mean- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 ing of the words. This, I thought it might be proper to obferve, as fome 
 fay, hieroglyphics flood for things, and not for words, if founds articulated 
 in a certain manner are words. And though it may be faid, that in this 
 cafe, when different nations of different languages agree on common cha- 
 racters, that ftand for certain things they agree on, that then fuch figures 
 ftand for things : This will be allow'd ; but then they ftand for founds too, 
 that is, the founds in each language that fignify fuch things: And, as ob- 
 ferved before, to children, who know nothing of the feveral things they 
 ftand for, to them they are only marks that exprefs fuch and fuch founds ; 
 fo that thefe figures ftand not for things alone, but, as words, for founds 
 and things. It is to be doubted, whether we have any in!criptions in a 
 language, the letters of which are figures of things ; for to know that, we 
 are not to examine all hieroglyphics, to fee how many different forts there 
 are; but if any are writ in lines, we ought to examine them, and fee whether 
 the different figures amount to fo great a variety as muft exceed the num- 
 ber of letters in any language. It is probable, that the hieroglyphical writ- 
 ing, was written in the fame manner as the common language, with re- 
 gard to the lines ; and thofe few infcriptions, that are found written in 
 lines, have fo great a variety of figures, that it is to be concluded, they 
 are the facred hieroglyphical writing, in which each figure flood for a 
 word. As' to other emblematical hieroglyphics, which feem to have been 
 defign'd for ornaments of buildings, we may fuppofe, that at firft they 
 might only adorn their freezes, and that the ornaments on the freezes in 
 temples confifted of fuch things as related to the Deity, or the manner of 
 worfhip ; as the animal, under whofe fhape he was worfhipped, might be 
 reprefented. The Lituus, an inftrument of augury, and vafes of facrifice, 
 may be allow'd to be infcriptions, if the Patera, the head of the ox, and 
 the like, in the freezes of Greek and Roman architecture, are affirm'd to 
 be infcriptions, fignifying that fuch a beaft was facrificed, or fuch a vafe 
 ufed in their facrifices or libations. And, with regard to other emblems, 
 if the reverfe of a medal, on which the figures of certain virtues are re- 
 prefented, for which the perfon is celebrated, or many of the pictures of 
 Rubens of that nature, may be faid to be infcriptions, it may be allow'd 
 alfo, that thefe hieroglyphics are infcriptions ; but thefe feem to reprefent 
 things; for if they were infcriptions, they muft ftand for fuch individual 
 words, and be read into certain fentences, exactly in the fame words, by 
 all thofe who underftand that language, which does not feem to be the 
 cafe. And tho' Ammianus Marcellinue mentions the inftription on every 
 fide of the obelilk that was brought to Conftantinople, yet it may be fup- 
 pofed thefe hieroglyphics might be in lines on the pedeftal or bafe of the 
 obelifk, where the infcription might be more eafily read; and it is probable, 
 they were in the common letters, which, as they were figures of animals, 
 might poffibly be call'd hieroglyphics, tho' not fo ftrictly fpeaking ; for, as the 
 infcription was in honour of fo great a King, it is molt probable, it fhould 
 be written fo as to be read by every body ; and, if it was written in the 
 hieroglyphical characters ftanding for words, it muft have taken up very 
 little room, there being only as many figures as principal words, and could 
 not have well cover'd one fide of a large obelifk, which would not 
 have anfwer'd the end of fuch a very concife manner of writing, for 
 which the hieroglyphics were contrived, as a fhort hand, to comprehend 
 Vol. I. N n n much 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 much under a few figures, eafily penn'd after they were once learnt. As 
 far, therefore, as hieroglyphics are emblematical, they feem to ftand for 
 things ; but as they are infcriptions, they ftand for words or founds as well 
 as things, and might be read in the vulgar language by the children of 
 the priefts, who poffibly might not underftand any part of fome of them, 
 that might relate to fciences, they as yet knew nothing of. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Of the Egyptian manner of Embalming human Bodies and 
 
 Birds. 
 
 HERODOTUS f gives fome account of the honours they paid to 
 the bodies of their relations, after they were dead. He fays, when 
 any man of confequence died, all the women of the family befmear'd 
 their hands and faces with dirt ; left the body in the houfe, and, with 
 other women, their relations, went about the city beating themfelves, with 
 their garments girt about them, and their brcafts uncovered ; the men alfo 
 girded their garments about them and beat themfelves; afterwards they 
 carried the body to be embalmed; there being certain perfons appoint- 
 ed for this bufmefs, whofe profeflion it was; who, when the body was 
 brought to them, fhew'd feveral patterns made of wood, painted like a 
 dead body embalmed. One of thefe patterns was of very fine workman- 
 fhip, and called by a name it was not lawful commonly to utter ; ano- 
 ther was fhewn, not fo fine, and lefs coftly; and a third ftill cheaper. 
 They then afk'd, in which manner they would have the body prepar'd, and 
 fo agreed on the price. And it is here to be obferv'd, that thefe three 
 ways of adorning the outfide of mummies, feem to relate to this firft 
 manner of embalming ; and it is probable, there were three prices, accord- 
 ing to the beauty of the workmanfhip. Then they embalmed them in 
 this manner : Firft, they extracted the brains by the nofe, with a crooked 
 iron, and then poured in drugs; afterwards they opend the body with a 
 fharp Ethiopian ftone, took out the bowels, cleanfed the body, and wafti- 
 ed it with palm wine, and a fecond time with pounded perfumes; they 
 then fill'd it with myrrh, caflia, and other fpices, frankincenfe excepted, 
 and few'd it up : Afterwards they wafh'd it with nitre, and laid it by for 
 feventy days, for longer it was not permitted to lie : They then wafh'd 
 the body again, and wound it up in fwathes of linen, befmearing it over 
 with gums, which the Egyptians ufed inftead of glue. The relations took 
 it from them, and made a wooden figure of a man, in which they put 
 the body, and fixing down the top, they put it into the catacombs. But 
 thofe, who were more moderate in their expences, injected turpentine of 
 cedar with a pipe into the body, without cutting it ; they then faked it for 
 feventy days, and drew out the pipe, which brought the bowels out with 
 it by the fundament, and the nitre dried up the flefh, leaving nothing but 
 the fkin and the bones. The third way of preparing the body, with thofe 
 
 t Herodotus, I. ii. c. 85, S6. 
 
 . i J ; of 
 
ON EGYPT, 
 
 of fmall fortunes, was by cleanfing the infide with fait and water, and 
 faking it for feventy Days. 
 
 Diodorus -f adds to this account of Herodotus, that they went mourn- 
 ing about the city till the body was buried; that, during that time, they 
 ufed neither the baths, wine, delicate food, nor fine cloaths. The firft. 
 manner of embalming coft a talent of filver; the fecond twenty Minx. 
 The people of this profeffion, of embalming bodies, learnt the art of their 
 anceftors ; and their method was, to bring in an account to the relations, 
 of the expences of the different ways of embalming the body, and alking 
 them which method they chofe ; and, agreeing about every thing, they 
 took away the body, to be embalmed. Firft, the fecretary mark'd out 
 on the left fide, how far it ought to be cut ; then a certain officer cut 
 according to their rules, with an Ethiopian {lone, and immediately ran 
 away, all the people that were prefent following him, throwing ftones af- 
 ter him, and curfing him, to attone tor this fa£t; for they look on the 
 perfon as an object- of hatred, who offers any violence, wounds, or does 
 any harm to the body of his fellow creature: But thofe who embalmed the 
 bodies, they honour'd and efteem'd ; and they converfed with the priefts, 
 and went into the temples (as the priefts) without any reftraint. Then one 
 of them took out all the entrails, except the heart and kidneys. Another 
 wafli'd the infide, and the bowels with palm wine, and aromatic per- 
 fumes ; they then prepar'd the body with turpentine of cedar, and other 
 things, for about thirty days, and afterwards with myrrh and cinamon, 
 not only to preferve it, but to keep it fweet. From what follows, one 
 would imagine, that there was a way of preferving the bodies far beyond, 
 that of wrapping them up in linen and dipping them in Bitumen, or be- 
 fmearing them with it, in the manner we fee they were embalmed ; for he 
 fays, their very eyebrows and eyelafhes, and the form and appearance of 
 the whole body was fo well preferved, that they might be known by their 
 features ; and, on this account, many of the Egyptians kept the bodies of 
 their anceftors in houfes, adorn'd at a very great coft, and had the plea- 
 fure to fee their fore-fathers, who were dead many years before they were 
 born, and to obferve all their features, as well as if they were living. 
 From this account it is probable, that this manner of embalming was 
 the fineft and mod coftly, and thofe whofe bodies were prepared in this 
 way might be fet upright, that their friends might have the pleafure to 
 behold them in that natural pofture. Herodotus fpeaks of binding thofe 
 up in fwathes, and putting them in coffins, who were embalmed in the beft 
 manner; fo that it feems, either that Herodotus was not well acquainted 
 with this firft way of embalming, or that it was an improvement intro- 
 duced afterwards, if the account of Diodorus be true ; though it muft be 
 obferv'd, that we do not find, that ever any bodies have been difcover'd, 
 which were embalmed, as our author defcribes; though it may be doubted, 
 whether there were not fuch bodies formerly found, that fupplied the 
 world with the mummy of dried flefh ; there being nothing of this kind 
 feen on the mummies at prefent; and that, there being fo great a de- 
 mand for it, all thofe bodies might have been deftroyed, and that drug 
 fupplied by the art of the Jews of Alexandria, as fome travellers relate. 
 
 f Lib. i. p. Si. 
 
 There 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 There were, doubtlefs, feveral ways of embalming the bodies, accord- 
 ing to the firft and fecond manner of Herodotus, which were more or 
 lefs expenfive. It was obferved of a mummy I brought from Egypt, that 
 was in a coffin made of boards ; that the holes between the boards were 
 filled up with linen and fine plaifter. There were four folds of cloth over 
 the head; the upper one being painted blew; under this there was a com- 
 pofition about half an inch thick, as I imagin'd, of gum, and cloth, that was 
 burnt by the heat of the things applied to it; and Herodotus fays, the 
 clothes were befmear'd with gums ; and next to the fkin was a coat of gum 
 or Bitumen about as thick as a wafer, which feem'd to have been caufed 
 by dipping the body in Bitumen, and under this, the skin feem'd to be, 
 next to the skull. The head was half full of Bitumen, that is, the hinder 
 part, the body having been laid on the back, when the Bitumen was 
 poured in by the nofe. It is very remarkable, that the Bitumen had 
 penetrated into the very bone of the skull, efpecially into the middle part 
 of it, which is moft porous, though there is little or nothing to be feen 
 of it on the outer tables of the bones, however, it is not probable that they 
 fhould have had an art of injefting by the blood vefTels. The body was 
 bound round with a bandage made of linen, about three quarters of an 
 inch broad, under which there were four folds of cloth, and then a 
 fwathe two inches broad, and under that eight different bandages of the 
 fame breadth, laid a-crofs from the fhoulders to the hips on the other fide. 
 Under this there was a cruft of linen about an inch thick, burnt almoft 
 to afhes, but flicking together by means of the gums with which it was 
 probably befmear'd. The bones of the arms were laid a-crofs the breaft; 
 the right arm being over the left, and the hands lying towards the face. 
 From the hips to the feet there were eight bandages two inches broad, one 
 covering about half of the other; under thefe there were bandages an inch 
 thick, confirmed by the heat of the drugs, as before. There were two 
 wooden blocks, on which the head of the mummy refted. The outer 
 bandages of linen did not feem to have been befmeared with gums. The 
 coffins they put the bodies in are obferved to be of two forts. One has 
 the lower part made of an entire piece of wood, and the upper of an- 
 other, both hollow'd in, fo as to receive the body, and being put toge- 
 ther, they are faftned with broad pegs in the top, that are fix'd into 
 holes in the lower part. They were cut into the fhape of a human 
 body, as bound up after it is embalmed ; and the coffins, and likewife 
 the bodies wrapp'd up in linen, were cover'd over with a thin plaifter, and 
 painted (without doubt) according to the pattern they fix'd on. As to 
 the manner of painting the mummies and coffins, it may be obferved, 
 both on their coffins and bodies, that they firft painted the ground of one 
 colour, and then, probably, laying on a cloth or pafte-board cut out in 
 figures like cut paper, they painted the open or uncovered fpaces; for the 
 figures appear moftly of one colour, probably that of the ground, and the 
 paint rifes higher round the figure. This is the manner they call paint- 
 ing in ftenfils, and it is fomething in this way that they now paint cards. 
 It was obferved alfo on another fmall mummy I brought from Egypt, that 
 there is a fort of printing call'd ftrow fmalt, being made of fmalt finely 
 powder'd and ftrow'd on the paint. The fecond way of making the cof- 
 fin, was with boards faften'd together with pins, with very little art in the 
 
 workmanfhip. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 vvorkmanfliip. A face or mark carved in wood was nailed on the lid of 
 the coffin, over the head. When I went into the catacombs, I had reafon 
 to think, they had tied up fome of the bodies of inferior perfons in reeds 
 or palm boughs, as obferved when I defcribed the catacombs of Saccarai 
 
 As to embalming of animals, I have already obferved, that Ilis, finding 
 the feveral parts of the body of Ofiris, had each of them made up in the 
 moft beautiful manner, like a body preferved after it was buried, and fent 
 them to the priefts of twenty-four feveral temples, defiring each of them to 
 pay due honour to the reliefs of Ofiris, to confecrate one animal to him, and 
 when it died to bury it in the fame manner: This way we may account for 
 the worfliip of animals in twenty-four temples in particular ; but it is to be 
 obferved, that they worfhipped the fame animals in different temples, as the 
 crocodile at Ombus, and at two or three other cities that had their names 
 from that animal; at Memphis the bull, under the name of Apis, and at 
 Heliopolis, under the name of Mnevis. Some fay, the foul of Ofiris went 
 into a bull, and that this was the reafon of the extraordinary worfhip 
 paid to that animal. So, according to the defire of Ifis, they worfhipped 
 thefe animals while living, and when dead, they embalmed their bodies 
 and depofited them in their catacombs with great ceremony. Some ani- 
 mals were worfhipped all over Egypt, as the Ibis, the hawk, and the cat: 
 And it is probable, that all thefe animals, when they were found dead, 
 were embalmed and buried in this manner, out of the great veneration 
 they had for them, whilft of the others, thofe only might be embalmed, 
 that were particularly confecrated and kept in their temples: And this 
 feems to be the reafon why fo many are found of the former, efpe- 
 cially of the Ibis. Thefe birds are feen in the catacombs at Saccara, as al- 
 ready defcribed, in fuch pots as are reprefented in the feventieth plate at 
 A. the cover C. being ftopp'd down with mortar. They appear to have 
 been embalmed and wrapp'd up in linen, as the human bodies. At B. the 
 bird is reprefented as it appear'd at firft opening, in the pot ; and at D. as 
 it appear'd when taken out of the pot, wrapp'd in feveral folds of linen ; 
 the outermoft being fewed together, and the fecond bound round with 
 thread. At E. the Ibis appears, as it was after the two outer folds were 
 taken off, the tape appearing, which bound round the reft: Under this 
 there were above twenty folds of linen, and probably feveral more under 
 them, which were burnt to a coal by the aromatic drugs and melted Bi- 
 tumen they were probably dipp'd into, or befmear'd with. At F. the 
 bird is reprefented after this cruft of linen and aromatic drugs was taken 
 off ; and at G. as it was when more was taken off, fo as to, fee the 
 bones of the bird, and fome feathers, which were of a reddifh colour, 
 but immediately crumbled into powder, on being touch'd ; however, this 
 colour is not to be fuppofed the natural colour of the feathers, but owing 
 to the balfams and drugs it was embalmed with. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 O oo 
 
 CHAP. 
 
234 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 An Abftra£fc from Mallet's Account of the infide of the 
 great Pyramid. 
 
 The paffiges '' ■ -> H E entrance to the great pyramid was at firft fhut up, and after- 
 ramids.' \. wards open'd by force, as may be feen at the mouth of it, where 
 there are feveral of the ftones, that clofed it up, of an extraordinary fize : They 
 were placed on the mouth of the fteep defcent, which leads to the mid- 
 dle of the pyramid. This defcent is a hundred feet long ; the way to it 
 is by an afcent made by the ruins of the pyramid. This paffage was fill'd 
 up with the fame kind of marble with which the infide of it is cafed. 
 In removing thefe ftones and the others, in order to get into the furtheft 
 part of the pyramid, it may be fuppofed, that they proceeded in the follow- 
 ing manner. Over the opening, by which one enters into this paffage, there 
 is a fpace of nine or ten feet, from which ftones have been taken away, of a 
 very great fize, which isfufficient to prove, that it was ftopp'd up: Thefe 
 ftones being taken away for no other end than to find the entrance into the 
 paffage, or to have the more command of thofe that fill'd it up, which 
 were covered with the ftones that were taken away, as may be feen at A. 
 After having removed thefe great ftones, and fuch as were under them at 
 the entrance of the paffage, it was eafy to get out the others with proper 
 tools. It is fuppofed, that, in order to make this undertaking the more 
 difficult, they were fix'd in with a ftrong cement, which bound them fo 
 faft, that they made but one body with the reft of the building ; but by 
 the force of ftrong machines, and by means of hot water pour'd into the 
 paffage mark'd B. they fo weaken'd the cement, and loofen'd the ftones, 
 that they were eafily taken out : For means muft have been found to 
 do it, without defacing the ftones of the paffage, which are ftill of as 
 beautiful a polifh as the firft day they were put in, except thofe at the 
 bottom, where they have made from place to place hollow grooves or chan- 
 nels about two or three inches deep, in order to facilitate the defcent and 
 afcent by this paffage; for without that contrivance, it would be impoffi- 
 ble to go down without Aiding, or to come up without the help of ropes. 
 The paffage is made of the fineft white marble, turn'd fomewhat yellow. 
 One of the very large blocks that was taken out from the top, at the en- 
 trance of the paffage, when the pyramid was forced open, is ftill to be 
 feen; and it is ufual when people go to fee this famous monument, to dine 
 upon it. The ftone which fill'd up the firft paffage, and all the others 
 in the pyramid, were of the fame marble, which doubtlefs was cholen 
 for this purpofe, on account of its extraordinary hardnefs. The infide 
 of the pyramid is fo dark, and fo much blacken'd with the fmoak of 
 candles and torches, carried there for fo many ages by fuch as go to fee 
 it, that it is not eafy to find out what fort of ftone the rooms and other 
 places of this building are cafed with: One can only fee that the po- 
 lifh is exceedingly beautiful, and that they are very hard, and fo clofe- 
 ly join'd, that the point of a knife cannot go between them. 
 
 The firft paffage being cleared, and that laborious work finifh'd, there 
 was another much more difficult, which was, to remove the ftones out 
 
 of 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 of another paffage, that went upwards, toward the top of the pyramid, 
 and as fieep as the firft. The chief difficulty muft have been to find where 
 it began in the paffage, which they had clear'd ; for, tho' the ftone that 
 flopped it up, was fo clofely fitted in, as to leave no mark of any open- 
 ing, yet it might be difcover'd, that it did not go over the upper part of 
 the firft paflage, as the other ftones; which might be found by thrufting a 
 knife, or fome inftrument into the joints on every fide of that ftone. 
 This entrance was within ten feet of the bottom of the lower paffage, the 
 better to deceive fuch as fhould endeavour to find it out. They muft 
 have work'd a confiderable time at the ftone with great difficulty ; and 
 the place being very narrow, they muft have been obliged to work over 
 their heads, lying on their backs, having no other way to command it ; 
 and confequently they were in great danger of being crufh'd by the fall 
 of the ftone, which muft have been loofe, as may be feen at C. Notwith- 
 ftanding, after having, by dint of labour and with proper tools, overcome 
 this difficulty, there was another ftone, which went down to the bottom 
 of the paffage; upon which they were obliged to work in another man- 
 ner. Having removed this likewife, there follow'd direftly another, which 
 made them think this work would be too tedious; therefore this method 
 was laid afide ; fo that, after having fupported the ftones, to keep them 
 from falling down, and flopping up the paflage, at the place mark'd D. 
 at the lower end of the paffage, they muft have made a way by breaking 
 the ftones of the lower paffage, which is forty feet long, and eight or ten 
 wide and high ; this is mark'd E. In moft places it is very narrow and 
 low, in fome not high enough for a man to ftand upright: This was a 
 work of infinite labour. Then turning upon the left, towards the upper 
 paflage, they took out three or four ftones, which made an opening of a- 
 bout fifteen or twenty feet, in the place mark'd G. But before we go on 
 with a further account of the work, it is proper to take notice, that the 
 ftone to the right, which clofed up this paffage, in that part where it made 
 an angle with the lower paffage, had probably been cut fo as exadtly to fill 
 up that angle, but was afterwards removed ; for the ftone at prefent, does 
 not exadly fit it, there being a void fpace of three or four inches at the 
 upper part of it, which ought to have been fo much longer than the un- 
 der part, as may be feen at the letter F. 
 
 When they had taken away the three ftones, which clofed the fide of the 
 upper paffage at G. the bufmefs was not only to remove the ftones which 
 they found in this new opening they made, hut likewife all that were a- 
 bove, and of an unknown length. This was a difficult task, and tedious 
 to perform, there being only room for one man to work in the fpace of 
 three feet three inches fquare ; and they had reafon to think, that befides 
 the great number of ftones which fill'd up this paffage, there might be 
 fome other place above, where there might be ftill more ftones ready to 
 flide down and fill up this paffage, as faft as they endeavour'd to clear it. 
 This was an additional labour, which the architect had prepared for thofe 
 who fhould attempt to penetrate into the centre of the pyramid ; there- 
 fore, in order to fave fome part of that labour, inftead of breaking all the 
 ftones at the place mark'd G. where they had begun to make a paflage, it 
 was refolved to fupport the ftones with timber, or by fome other way, until 
 they had broke the under one. Accordingly they fecured the upper ftone, 
 
a 3 6 OBSERVATION S 
 
 and then cut away the ftone under it ; and fo going from one ftone to an- 
 other, they at laft came to the end, and to the void fpace, of which I 
 am going to give an account. It is to be obferved, that in the whole 
 length of this paffage, they were obliged to ufe violent means to break 
 the ftones with which it was filled up ; which fo defaced all the fides of 
 the paffage, that, whereas it was at firft iquare, it became almoft round, 
 which is a proof that the work was carried on in this manner; for, if they 
 had broke the ftones direftly in, that part only would have been defaced, 
 and the remainder of it, which is eighty feet long, and mark'd H. from 
 which the ftones would have Aid down to the breach which was made, 
 would have remain'd intire, without being defaced, as all the other parts 
 do to this day. 
 
 Thegaileiy. When they were at the end of this paflage, it was found, that the 
 upper part was open, and that it was a foot narrower than before, for 
 the height of two feet and a half, where it widened a foot and a half 
 on each fide, which made the benches ; and confequently this place was 
 fix feet and a half broad t ; fo that now there was on each fide of 
 the paffage a fort of rifing or bench, two feet and a half high, and 
 eighteen inches wide, which continued on for the length of an hun- 
 dred and twenty-four feet, according to the meafure that was taken, 
 tho' fome fay it is a hundred and forty feet. At the end of this there is a 
 floor eight or nine feet long, and fix feet and a half broad, the fame as 
 the paffage above the benches. This floor is mark'd R. in the large draw- 
 ing at the end of this gallery. In the benches next the walls, there are 
 at the diftance of every two feet and a half, holes one foot long, fix inches 
 broad, and eight inches deep, cut down perpendicularly. I lhall explain 
 the ufe they made of the benches and holes, which are in the paflage P. as 
 reprefented at The fides of the gallery rife above thefe benches five 
 and twenty feet, twelve of which are exadtly perpendicular, at which 
 height it projedts three inches, and three feet higher three inches more ; 
 then three feet higher it fets out again three inches ; and three feet higher 
 there is a fourth projection of three inches, from which, to the cieling of 
 the gallery, which is flat, it is four feet more ; the cieling being about 
 the fame breadth as the paflage between the benches, that is, about three 
 feet three inches. This height was neceflary to the architect, in order to 
 place the ftones intended to fill up the paflages. What is here faid about 
 the leffening of the gallery, may be feen at S. 
 
 At the end of the paflage H. and the entrance of the gallery, there is on 
 the right hand, an opening made in the wall, which takes up fome part 
 of the bench. This hole is almoft round, fomething like a door place, a- 
 bout three feet high, and two feet and a half broad. From this opening 
 one goes down into a well, of which I fhall make mention hereafter, and 
 for what purpofe it was intended. This hole is feen at I. 
 
 When they had once got to this gallery, it was no difficult matter for 
 them to break the ftones that were in the channel, mark'd P. not only be- 
 caufe they were a foot above the benches, but by reafon of the greater 
 breadth of the gallery, which gave the workmen more room, and a greater 
 command of their tools ; and they could begin by the laft ftone, which 
 was the more eafily mafter'd, as they could ft and upright at their work ; 
 which being done, and all the rubbifh removed, they look'd for the bot- 
 tom 
 
 f The expreffions of the author are obfeure, but this feems to be the fenfe of them. 
 
 I 
 
ON EGYPT. a37 
 
 torn of the channel, and obferved, that the ftones for the fpace of fourteen or 
 fifteen feet, mark'd with the letter L. * did not go acrofs under the benches; 
 by which they found, it would be eafy to raife up thofe ftones, one after 
 another ; which being done, they came to a floor ten feet long : At the 
 depth of ten feet, and at the end of this floor, they found, the paflage was 
 continued on, and that it form'd, at the end of the gallery, a triangle of 
 fourteen or fifteen feet ,• and at the fame time they difcover'd even with 
 the floor, and at the left of the paflage which led to the gallery, a fur- 
 ther continuation of the way, three feet three inches fquare. This new 
 paflage being cover'd before by the ftones juft removed, they concluded, 
 that it muft lead to fome fecret place of the pyramid ; upon which it was 
 refolved to examine further, which was eafily done by removing the ftones 
 that flopped it up at N. As it was in a right line, fo they broke away 
 the ftone, and the paflage was found to be a hundred and eighteen feet 
 long, at the end of which was an arched chamber. 
 
 This room mark'd O. is feventeen feet and a half long, and fifteen feet The firft 
 ten inches broad ; the covering is in form of a triangle. On the eaft of the chamber ' 
 room is a niche in the wall, three inches deep, eight feet high, and three 
 feet broad. It is not to be doubted, but there was in this niche a mummy 
 fet upright, as was the cuftom of the Egyptians. It is probable, that it was 
 the body of the Queen of that Prince who built the pyramid ; and there 
 is no doubt, but that the King himfelf was depofited in the upper room 
 which is directly over it, at about the height of one hundred feet, as 
 may be feen at O. and D D. Entering the laft room, the furtheft ftone 
 on the right hand projects three inches, which had been contrived on 
 purpofe to prevent the ftone, which was to clofe up the paflage N. from 
 being thruft in. It is probable, this ftone was fo contrived on that fide, 
 as to fit it, and join clofe to the wall of the room at the entrance. I muft 
 not leave this place without making mention of a difcovery, which I made 
 at the upper end of the paflage, that is a hundred and eighteen feet long, 
 which leads to this place ; it is, that the ftones, with which it is built, are 
 cracked acrofs the whole length of the paflage. I {hall leave it to thofe who 
 are more skilful than myfelf, to decide what could be the caufe of this 
 flaw, tho' I conjecture, it might be occafion'd by an earthquake, or per- 
 haps by the fettling of this weighty building, which might be heavier on 
 one fide than the other. I did not fee any fuch crack in any other part of 
 the pyramid, tho' I examined it with the utmoft care ; efpecially there is no 
 part of the gallery but what I have examined with the greateft diligence. 
 
 To fupply the want of a rod or pole, which could not be brought thro' 
 the winding of the paffages, I order'd feveral fhort rods to be faften'd to- 
 gether, at the end of which I fix'd a light, and fo held it up as near the 
 arch and walls as pofllble, without ever being able to obferve any defects. 
 I could only perceive, that the fides were a little damaged, and that to- 
 wards the right hand fide a piece of the wall was broke off at the top of 
 the narrowing of the gallery, which might have happen'd by the fall of 
 fome ftone, which in the clofing of the pyramid, in the manner I lhall de- 
 fcribe hereafter, might roll off the fcaffold and break this ftone. 
 
 Doubtlefs they had a notion, that there was fome hidden treafure un- 
 der this firft room ; which may be concluded from their breaking up the 
 
 * See the feventeenth plate. 
 
 Vol. I. P p p floor, 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 floor, by which one may go between feveral Hones, that lie in a confufed 
 order, into the body of the pyramid, for about twenty paces; the ftones 
 taken out at this place almoft fill the room. They attempted the fame in 
 the upper room ; but it is probable, that in both places, they had no other 
 reward for the great pains they were at in defacing fuch a beautiful piece 
 of architecture, than the difappointment in having beftow'd their time 
 and labour to no purpofe. 
 
 Having difcover'd every thing in this firft room, it remain'd only to pe- 
 netrate into that where the body of the King was depofited. They did 
 not doubt, but they fhould find it at that void fpace, which was at the upper 
 end of the gallery, directly over the firft chamber. Accordingly, at the 
 end of that place which is mark'd R. they found the paffage extended fur- 
 ther, and was three feet three inches wide, and well flopped up at T. It 
 is probable, that the firft ftone was fo well fixed as to coft them great la- 
 bour to remove it ; which appears by a piece of the upper ftone which 
 was broke off", in order, no doubt, to have a better hold on the. under one, 
 which flopped up the paffage. This being removed with great labour, they 
 took out another with the fame difficulty: When thefe two were taken away, 
 there appear'd a void fpace fevcn feet and a half long ; and being defirous 
 to clear the way further, they found a third ftone, that could not be got 
 out, being every way larger than the hole that it flopped up. This was 
 the laft artifice of the architect, to deceive any perfons that might get fo 
 far, and to prevent their looking any more after the private chamber, 
 which is but twelve paces from this place, in which lay the body of the 
 King, and where they would have found the treafure, if any had been 
 depofited with him. Still this did not difcourage the workmen, nor 
 deceive them ; for they fet about breaking the ftone, which they muft 
 have done with much labour ; it was fix feet long, four feet broad, and 
 perhaps five or fix feet high. There was a void fpace here of fifteen 
 feet high, which at the height of eight feet enlarged itfelf about four feet, 
 towards the gallery, and is mark'd W. and coi refponded to an opening of 
 the pafiage eighteen inches broad, which was two feet from the great flone : 
 I fhall hereafter mention the ufe it was intended for. At the upper end 
 of this void fpace there are three holes a foot deep and broad, mark'd A A. 
 which were made on purpofe to fix in large pieces of timber, to which 
 cords were faften'd, and fixed, by means of iron rings to that great ftone 
 which I havemention'd, and kept it hung up in this void fpace, where it re- 
 main'd till fuch time as it was to be let down on the pafiage B B. which was 
 to be when the King's body fhould be depofited in the room. The opening 
 eighteen inches wide in the pafiage, mark'd V. two feet from that void 
 fpace in which the great ftone hung, muft have been defign'd for the 
 workmen to get out, after they had let down the ftone ; and when they 
 had quitted the place, the hole was flopped up clofe with a ftone two feet 
 thick only, which had been fet under it, to which two rings were faften'd. 
 At the further end of the upper part of it, two chains were fix'd to the 
 two rings, which were faften'd to another heavier ftone that hung over 
 the opening Z. occupied by the great ftone that left the fpace void when 
 it fell down : The ropes that kept up that great ftone were fix'd to the pil- 
 lar Y. in the paffage, and were held by the under ftone, till the workmen 
 got out by the hole eighteen inches wide, which is between this and the 
 
 upper 
 
' ON EGYPT, &tf 
 
 upper opening ; when they were out, they let it go, and the ftone was 
 raifed up in its place, where it was flay'd by another ftone, contrived for 
 that purpofe, three inches thick, and fix or feven broad; it is at about a 
 man's height in the void place mark'd V. which was part of the laft con- 
 trivance ufed to prevent the entring into the room : This ftone mark'd X. 
 is to be well obferv'd. Along the walls, on each fide of the paffage in 
 which the great ftone fix feet long, and four feet broad, was put ; there 
 are grooves wrought round, three inches deep; the fedtion of which are 
 in the figure ; thefe grooves were made to let it down more exactly in the 
 place it was to occupy, and likewife that it might fix more firmly in its 
 place, in cafe any perfons mould attempt to open it. All this fhews the 
 great care that was taken to fecure the body of the Prince from being dif- 
 cover'd, if there fhould happen to be men fo impious as to undertake it* 
 And, if afterwards the ftone eighteen inches broad and three feet and 
 a half long, which is the dimenfion of the opening mark'd V. in the paf- 
 fage, was put in its place, and there happen'd to be a fmall opening, it 
 might be fill'd up with cement, and it is poffible, the ftone might be all 
 cover'd with mortar, which would make its motion flower, refitting the 
 force of the counterpoife, and a few blows with a hammer would clear off 
 the fuperfluous mortar, and make it go into its place ; this ftone is not 
 now feen, nor the other large one, being both doubtlefs broke to pieces to 
 be carried away. If any one examines with care the difpofition of the void 
 places that have been defcribed, which are but fix feet from the entrance 
 of the room where the King's body was depofited ; he muft be perfuaded, 
 that it was executed in this manner, and admire the art and ingenuity of 
 the architect: To make all this the plainer, it is reprefented feparately, 
 and with a larger fcale, in the draught near the pyramid, which will make 
 the whole affair better underftood than any defcription. 
 
 After having cut away the great ftone from the place where it was fix'd, The ftcond 
 they came at length to the laft ftone at the entrance of the chamber; it 
 fill'd the fpace BB. This was eafily taken out ; and being removed with 
 little trouble, gave admittance into the room which is mark'd DD. It 
 is cover'd at top with nine rows of ftone ; the feven middle rows are four 
 feet broad each, and above fixteen long, having both ends laid on the 
 walls from eaft to weft, which are fixteen feet apart ; there appears no 
 more than two feet of the breadth of each of the other two ftones, the 
 remainder being hid by the walls on which they reft. Whatever was in 
 this room, at prefent nothing remains but a tomb of granite marble, fe- 
 ven or eight feet long, four broad, and four deep; it was put here when the 
 room was built, before it was clofed up, and remains in the fame place, as 
 it is impoffible to take it out without breaking it to pieces, which would be 
 to no purpofe ; it formerly had a cover, as appears by the make of the edge, 
 but in removing it, it was broke to pieces, and no remains of it are left. 
 This cheft, no doubt, contain'd the body of the King inclofed in three or 
 four chefts of fine wood, as was ufual among the great people: It is like- 
 wife probable, that this room contain'd feveral other chefts befides that of 
 the Prince, efpecially thofe that belong'd to the people, who were fhut up 
 with him in his tomb, to keep him company : For, when the body of the 
 King, who built this pyramid, was depofited in this fumptuous Maufoleum, 
 it is to befuppofed, there were at the fame time living perfons broughtinto it 3 
 
 who 
 
 3 
 
z 4 o OBSERVATIONS 
 
 who were never to go out of it, but to bury themfelves, as it were, alive 
 with their Prince. This is a fadt which I cannot queftion, after the con- 
 vincing proofs which I have had of it. I ground my opinion of this 
 matter of fait upon this foundation, that dire&ly in the middle of 
 this room, which is thirty-two feet long, nineteen feet high, and fixteen 
 broad, there are two holes oppofite to one another, three feet and a half 
 above the floor, one towards the north is one foot broad and eight inches 
 high, it goes quite through in a right line to the exterior part of the 
 pyramid: This hole is now ftopp'd up with ftone, within five or fix 
 feet of its opening: The other, which is open towards the eaft, and 
 of the fame height from the floor, is perfectly round ; it is large enough 
 to thruft in two fifts ; it enlarges to a foot diameter, and goes Hoping 
 down to the bottom of the pyramid; the two holes are mark'd C. I 
 believe every one will conclude, that they were intended for no other 
 ufes than the conveniency of thofe that were to remain in ' this tomb ; 
 the firft was to give them air, and convey to them their focd, and 
 other neceffaries; they were no doubt provided with a long box propor- 
 tionable to the width of the paffage ; to this box was faften'd a long 
 cord by the help of which they could draw in the box ; the other cord 
 was left hanging to the outfide of the pyramid, for the people with- 
 out to draw out the box ; it is probable, this was the manner they were 
 fupplied with neceffaries as long as any of them remain'd alive. I fup- 
 pofe, at their going in, each of them had provided himfelf with a coffin 
 to be laid in; and that they fucceffively perform'd that pious and laft 
 duty, of putting each into his coffin, except the laft, who fail'd of 
 that fuccour, which the reft of the company had found in him and the 
 others. The fecond hole was to convey their excrements, which fell into a 
 great pit made for that purpofe. I intended to have had the outfide of the 
 pyramid examined, to fee where the fquare hole ended ; and perhaps there 
 might have been found frefh proofs of what I have faid ; but luch an exa- 
 mination would have given fufpicion to the government of the country, 
 who would have imagined, that it was to feek after hidden treafures. I 
 thought alfo, that the hole might end in fome fort of cavity without- 
 fide, and might be entirely ftopp'd up, at leaft. on the outfide. How- 
 ever, others may examine the place, and find a full proof of the ufe it 
 was intended for ; though to me it feems paft difpute, and that it is not 
 poffible to imagine any other ufe it could be put to. 
 
 Having explain'd as clearly as the matter would admit, in what man- 
 ner and by what means the pyramid was probably broke open, it remains 
 now to folve a doubt, which may arife from reading the firft part; and 
 that is, to know where fuch a great number of ftones could be put, as 
 was required to fill up the paffages, which I have mention'd; in what 
 manner it was done, and how the workmen afterwards came out ; this 
 is certainly as curious as the reft, and deferves at leaft as much atten- 
 tion. 
 
 Thcfecretof I have already mention'd, that in the benches on each fide of the paf- 
 thc Gallery. f a g e ; n t j le g a \\ er y } w hich is an hundred and twenty-four feet long, there 
 had been made holes or mortices cut down perpendicularly one foot long, 
 fix inches broad, and eight inches deep, as may be feen at Thefe 
 mortices were direclly oppofite to each other, and continued the whole 
 
 length 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 length of the benches, at the diftance of two feet and a half from one 
 another ; thefe holes were left when they built the gallery, in order to 
 fix into each of them a piece of timber one foot fquare, and three or four 
 feet long, with a tenant at each end, fix inches thick, and eight inches 
 long ; thefe timbers and joints made a fcaffold to put the ftones on, that 
 were neceffary to flop up all the paflages that were to be fill'd up in the 
 infide of the pyramid, as well as this gallery of a hundred and twenty-four 
 feet in length, mark'd P. which was at the bottom of the gallery. Thefe 
 joints were likewife fhaped at the upper end, fo as to be fix'd into the 
 mortices of long beams of timber laid on them, to fupport planks fix feet 
 fix inches long, and fix inches thick, made very fmooth, on which courfes 
 of ftones were laid. The benches, as I faid before, being two feet and a 
 half high from the bottom of the gallery, I fuppofe the fcaffold was fet 
 three feet above them; fo that, from the bottom to the fcaffold, there was 
 a height of five feet and a half, for the workmen to pafs backwards and 
 forwards. 
 
 I alfo mention'd, that the height from the bottom of the paffage to the top 
 of the gallery was twenty-feven feet and a half; from this floor of the paf- 
 fage it was fix feet to the fcaffold ; fo that, from the fcaffold to the arch, there 
 remain'd one and twenty feet and a half ; in which fpace, fetting four courfes 
 of ftones three feet and a half thick, which were neceflary to fill up the paf- 
 lages; there was ftill avoid fpace of feven feet and a half high: But I fuppofe, 
 that from the firft courfe to the fecond, they fet between the ftones a 
 plank about three inches thick, and the like from the fecond to the third, 
 that it might be eafier to Aide them off",- three courfes of thefe ftones were 
 fufficient to fill up all the void places, that were to be ftopp'd up, and 
 which are now open'd. Perhaps in the body of the pyramid, there are 
 other paflages ftopp'd up, and not yet difcover'd ; becaufe in the gallery 
 they might have placed four or five more courfes of ftones, if there was 
 occafion : One may be fatisfied of this by the calculation I have made ; 
 neither do I think it likely, that they would have made the gallery higher 
 than was abfolutely neceflary, as it made the body of the building fo much 
 the weaker. 
 
 But we fhall go no farther than the known paflages, which have been 
 found open ; and the ftones which fill'd them up have been fince broke to 
 pieces, excepting three feet and a half or four feet of them, which re- 
 main in the place mark'd F, which now fill the upper paflage, anfwer- 
 ing to the firft paffage, mark'd B. which I call the outfide paffage, be- 
 caufe it was fill'd up from the outfide of the pyramid, whereas the others 
 were ftopp'd up from the infide of it by thefe ftones in the gallery : And 
 I lay it down as a matter of faft, that three courfes of ftone were fuffi- 
 cient to fill up all the paflages, as every one may be convinced from this 
 computation. 
 
 it firft required thirteen feet and a half of ftone to fill up the paflage 
 that led to the royal chamber even with the void fpace at the upper end 
 of the gallery, which they took down from the fcaffold to the floor, mark'd 
 R. A ftone of fix feet fquare they put into the paffage as far as the 
 chamber door, in the place mark'd DD. where it was ftopp'd by the floor 
 of the room, which was raifed two inches higher than the bottom of 
 the paffage: Then they let fall into the paffage the ftone fix feet in 
 
 Vol. 1. Qjj q dimenfion, 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 dimenfion, which I faid was hanging in the void place mark'd Z. Then, 
 as foon as the workmen had withdrawn from this place, it was fill'd up, 
 together with the opening mark'd V. and when they had clofed it up, 
 they took down from the fcaffold two other ftones, feven feet and a half 
 in the fquare meafure, by which this paffage, that is but nineteen feet 
 long, was perfectly ftopp'd up. It is to be fuppofed, that in order to 
 facilitate the performance of this work, there was fix'd in the floor of 
 the gallery, over againft the ftones on the fcaffold, a ftrong machine of 
 iron and lubfiantial pulleys, by the help of which the workmen, Handing 
 on the floor, could by ropes take down the ftones from the fcaffold, one 
 after another, and brin-r them to the very floor, by making a hole in the 
 top of them to fix a lewis in, by which the workmen having a fure hold, 
 they brought them to the floor, and convey 'd them with very little trouble 
 where they were to place them. 
 
 The firft: paffage being thus fill'd up, they went about the other, a 
 hundred and eighteen feet long, mark'd N. This paffage, as before men- 
 tion'd, leads up to the firft room, where it is probable the Queen's body 
 was depofited, at the letter O. this was a very eafy work. Then they 
 took as many ftones as were wanted to conceal the entrance of the paflage 
 and level the channel mark'd L. and cover'd that floor, ten feet in dimen- 
 fion, that was form'd by the triangle mark'd L M. at the entrance of the 
 gallery; after which, having taken a hundred feet more of ftones, they 
 fill'd up the area of tire paffage mark'd H. which is that where the entry 
 into the pyramid was forced; this is utterly defaced the length of 
 eighty feet. Then a hundred and twenty-four feet more of the ftone 
 fill'd up the paffage at the bottom of the gallery, mark'd P. over which 
 the fcaffold was built, and it is to be obferved, that the laft ftone which 
 fill'd up this paffage, was fupported by an elevation of four or five inches 
 at the end of the paffage, as is already mention'd, which has not been for- 
 got in the draught. 
 
 What I have faid in relation to the clofing up the pafiages of the py- 
 ramid, and the ufe of the gallery, will perhaps appear new, and bold 
 enough for fome critics to call it a chimera ; but I do not pretend to be 
 abfolutely pofitive upon this article ; however, it is a probable fyftem, that 
 may give fome light into wonders that had been conceal'd to this day ; and 
 it is difficult to account how it could otherwife be executed. One may fee, 
 that it was not poffible, after the pyramid was finifhed, that is to fay, after 
 the pafiages were made, and the arch of the gallery clofed, to get ftones into 
 that gallery of a proper bignefs to fill them up; on the contrary, one may 
 fee, the architect had difficulty enough in taking care that no body fhould 
 ever be able to take out thofe ftones he had enclofed, to fhut it up in fuch 
 a manner that he thought it would be impoffible to find out the entrance. 
 One may fee the intent of the architect alfo, in the long channel at the bot- 
 tom of the gallery, and may fuppofe, that it was made only to convey ftones, 
 which were one day to clofe the infide paffage; and may judge by the 
 fiay, which is found at the upper end of that channel, that it was likewife 
 to be fill'd up, after the pafiages fhould be ftopp'd ; the exquifite polifh 
 of that channel confirms me in the opinion of this double ufe of it, and 
 I remark'd, that its length is proportion'd to that of the infide paffage. 
 One may fee, that that paffage is ftill partly fhut up, that is, in the place 
 
 which 
 
ON EGYPT. a 4 
 
 which makes an angle with the outfide paffage. It is vifible, that they did 
 not penetrate into the pyramid by this true paffage, but on the contrary 
 they were obliged to force another way; by which, getting to one of the 
 fides of the paffage, they had more command over the ftones with which it 
 was filled up. From this opening force was ufed, and it is defaced the whole 
 length, which fhews, that they were obliged to ufe violence to clear it ; and 
 I conclude, from its being defaced to the very entrance of the gallery, that 
 the ftones which were in it were broken ; and that for the length of a hun- 
 dred and twenty-four feet, there was in the channel and behind it, a hun- 
 dred and twenty feet more of thefe ftones, to be a fupply in the place of 
 thofe that mould be taken away. I again fufpedt, that thofe who broke 
 open the pyramid, had fome knowledge of thefe ftones inclofed in that 
 channel ; for, if they had been intirely ignorant, they would only have 
 broke the ftone that filled up the paffage at the opening they forced, which 
 would have been eafier for them; and if they went to work otherwife, it 
 was from the knowledge they had of the ftones in the channel ready to 
 Aide down in the paflage, as faft as it fhould be clear'd. 
 
 I have hinted, that in the body of the pyramid, there may be other open- 
 ings, which were clofed up, and not yet difcover'd, and perhaps it was not 
 without fome grounds that they fearch'd for them ; but they happen'd to 
 be wrong, when they thought to find them under the floors of the two 
 rooms. Doubtlefs they muft be look'd for, and the entrance can be no 
 where but about the middle of the channel. 
 
 I muft likewife obferve, that the dots which are hear the letter M. are to 
 fhew certain holes purpofely made at the time of the building of the pyra- 
 mid. They were intended as fteps for fuch as would go up from the paf- 
 lage a hundred and eighteen feet long, leading to the firft room, towards 
 the channel ; which, as I faid above, was broke off in this place, or for 
 thofe who would go down from this channel. I have already remark'd, 
 that from the bottom of the channel, a man might go upright under the 
 fcaffold. There is no doubt, but that there were on each fide of the gal- 
 lery, under the fcaffold, ropes faften'd acrofs to the joints, to help them 
 up and down without Aiding; they at firft ferved for the workmen in the 
 building of the gallery, and filling up the paffages, and then for thofe who 
 afterwards went to fee the rooms, as well as for thofe who carried the 
 bodies of the King and Queen to be depofited ; and laftly, for thofe who 
 went to remain in the room, and die near their King: There is no doubt, 
 then, but that all the infide paffages of the pyramid were fill'd up with 
 the ftones that were on that fcaffold. 
 
 After having given the finifhing ftroke to all thefe works, there remain'd The wall, 
 nothing but for the workmen to get out ; except we fuppofe, that they pulled 
 down the fcaffold, and convey'd the timber out by the fame way that they 
 were to go themfelves, which was no other than by the well I. which 1 have 
 mention'd. The entrance of this well occupies part of the bench; it 
 rifes about two feet up in the wall, is almoft round or oval; and is 
 mark'd I. . This well goes down towards the bottom of the pyramid, firft 
 in a perpendicular line, then in an inclined plane, as may be feen in the 
 feclion of the pyramid. About two feet from the mouth A. there is a 
 fquare hole, by which one goes into a little grotto cut in the mountain, 
 which here is not ftone, but a lort of gravel, the pebbles of which are 
 
 firmly 
 
 3 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 firmly cemented together. This grotto extends from eaft to weft, perhaps a- 
 bout fifteen feet long ; then there is found another channel cut in the rock, 
 which Hopes much, and is very near the perpendicular, and is two feet 
 four inches one way, two feet and a half the other, and a hundred and 
 twenty-three feet deep ; in which there is nothing but fand and ftones, 
 which were either purpofely thrown there, or have fallen down of them- 
 felves. I am convinced, that this place was never intended for any other 
 ufe but for the workmen to get out ; thefe Hoping defcents, the windings, 
 narrownefs, and depth are proofs of it. It may be, it was cut in feveral 
 windings, fome of them probably returning towards the mouth of it. I 
 do not doubt, but that there hung over the entrance of it a range of ftones, 
 which were by fome means kept up, and afterwards made to fall by cer- 
 tain fprings, that were fet on work after the workmen were out of the py- 
 ramid, and fo fhut up this paffage for ever. In fact we do not find, that 
 it ever was attempted, either becaufe it never was known, or that its nar- 
 rownefs would not admit any one to work at it. The pyramid was broke 
 open by the great way, which ferved, no doubt, to convey the King's body 
 into the pyramid, and for thofe who aflifted at the funeral, and went out 
 again after having perform'd the laft duty to their Prince, and depofited 
 his body in the tomb which he himfelf had prepared. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the Religion of the C o p t i s in Egypt. 
 
 ST. MARK is faid to have firft preach'd the gofpel in Egypt, and is 
 efteem'd the firft patriarch of Alexandria. During the perfecutions, 
 as obferved before, many of the Chriftians of Egypt retired to Cop- 
 tus, and the places about it; from which it is faid, they were call'd Coptis. 
 Diofcores, patriarch of Alexandria, embraced in part, the opinion of Euty- 
 ches: 'Till that time they were in union with the catholic church. This 
 opinion was condemn'd by the fourth general council held at Chalcedon; 
 and feveral Emperors fetting themfelves to fupprefs it, it is faid, that thofe 
 who had the upper hand, ufed the Coptis with fo much feverity, that it 
 gave them a great averfion to their oppreffors, which they retain to this day 
 towards the Franks and Greeks; and it is increafed againft the former, ly 
 their endeavours to make converts of them. Thofe of the other fide were 
 call'd Melchites, or Royalifts, becaufe they were fupported by the govern- 
 ment at Conftantinople. 
 
 The Mahometans, when they enterprized the conqueft of Egypt, took 
 part with the Coptis, who were glad to fee the Greeks deftroy'd, and it 
 is faid, turn'd againft them, and cut feveral of them off ; fo the Cop- 
 tis got the upper hand, and their patriarch was eftablifh'd by the ruling 
 powers, as he is at prefent. Another divifion happening in the church, 
 part of the Greek communion remain'd here, in oppofition to the weftern 
 church, and at this time they have their patriarch. 
 
 The Copti patriarch of Alexandria probably refided at old Cairo, when 
 that became the capital; and it may be fuppofed, he removed into the pre- 
 fent 
 
ON EGYPT. 245 
 
 Tent city, when old Cairo began to be deferted. The Greek patriarch aifd 
 refides there. I was inform'd, that the bifhops chufe the patriarch, and that 
 the principal Coptis confirm him ; but the principal Coptis feem to have 
 a great fhare in the eleftion, and fome of the former muft advance the 
 money for the Firman or patent, which is after paid out of the patriarch's 
 revenues: He is inftall'd at the eaft end of the church of St. Macarius, 
 where he is ele&ed, and afterwards in the chair of St. Mark in Alexan- 
 dria. 'Tis faid if the votes (as I fuppofe, viva voce) are equal, they then vote in 
 a more folemn manner, by writing the names, and putting them on the altar. 
 
 The Copti church is fomething like the Greek church in its ceremo- Coptic ceri- 
 nies; their liturgies are in the antient Coptic language, which is, without mxua - 
 doubt, the Egyptian, tho' much corrupted, efpecially by the Greek lan- 
 guage that was introduced among them during the time of the Ptolemies, 
 when, without doubt, they took not only feveral of their letters, that might 
 be fomething different in their manner of pronunciation, but likewife ad- 
 opted many of their words. It is to be fuppofed, that the Arabic language 
 took place of it, when the Arabs conquer'd this country ; fo that, now 
 the Coptic is no more a living language, nor is it underftood by any, ex- 
 cept that fome of the priefts underftand a little of their liturgy, tho' many 
 of them cannot fo much as read it, but get their long offices by rote, by a 
 conftant attendance on them, and hearing them frequently repeated. The 
 epiftle and gofpel are read both in the Arabic and Coptic languages. The 
 Roman Catholics have their liturgy printed in the Coptic, with very few 
 alterations, chiefly relating to their praying for the broachers of thofe opi- 
 nions that are favour'd by the Coptis. As obferved before, they fpend al- 
 moft all the night before feftivals and holidays, in their churches ; a cuftom 
 that might firft arife from their meeting at their devotions at night, du- 
 ring the times of perfecution, and might afterwards be found very conve- 
 nient on account of the coolnefs of the night, as well as to have the fefti- 
 val to themfelveSj to be fpent intirely in their diverfions, which confift in 
 going to their gardens, cr walking about and doing nothing. Their 
 churches are always cover'd with matting, and they take off their flippers; 
 and carry them with them into the church ; for it would be great ill man- 
 ners to come with them on the Stora, as they call it, even in their houfes. 
 They likewife kifs the pavement when they come into the church, which 
 may be another reafon for keeping it very clean. Their mufic is the 
 Nakous already defcribed ; their chant is not agreeable; and they fit on 
 the ground very irreverently, for mod part of the time that their devotion 
 continues; and when they are obliged to ftand up, they have crutches to lean 
 on to fupport themfelves, which are very much ufed, the fexton fupply- 
 ing them with them. They have fome ceremonies perform'd in their church 
 in a different manner from other churches ; the patriarch, or head prieft, 
 warning the feet of the other priefts, at the hole A. in the plan of a Coptic 
 church, in the feventy-firft plate, which is fill'd with water ; and they call 
 this hole llahan. Another more extraordinary ceremony is on the feaft of 
 Epiphany, when the hole B. being fill'd with water, which is bleffed, the 
 people croud to put in their feet; and it is faid, that in fome parts, there 
 are people that will jump into the water almoft naked, and plunge in their 
 children. The Roman Catholics here blefs the water, and only crofs 
 their foreheads with it. They have commonly a pulpit C. on the north 
 Vol. I. R r r fide 
 
OBSERVATION S 
 
 fide of the church ; the baptiftery D. in moft of the churches is a chapel on 
 the fouth fide of the altar. The priefts have a very good reafon for not 
 preaching. The patriarch, if I miftake not, makes a fhort difcourfe to them 
 once a year, and they read legends out of the pulpit on great feftivals. They 
 make deacons at eight or nine years old, who always receive the facra- 
 ment when it is adminifter'd. They keep the funday very ftri&ly, and 
 will not work, nor do any thing in the way of their profeffion. Taking 
 in wednefdays and fridays, they faft feven months in the year. Abftain- 
 ing from flefh would be no great mortification to thofe who feldom eat 
 any ; fo that it chiefly confifts in not eating eggs, milk, butter, oil, and 
 fuch things as they commonly ufe, and in forbearing to eat till noon s or 
 later. One great faft is that of Lent, which begins fifty-five days before 
 Eafter; that of advent is another, forty-three days before Chriftmas. They 
 faft alfo for fifteen days before the annunciation ; and during this faft they 
 do not eat oil, but live moftly on vegetables. The faft of the Apoftles be- 
 gins fifty days after Eafter, for thirteen days for the laity, and Something 
 longer for the priefts. They have alfo three days fevere faft before the 
 feaft of Jonas ; looking on him as a type of our Saviour's lying three days 
 in the bowels of the earth. On good-friday they abftain for twenty-five 
 hours. The faft during thefe feafons, is not ftrictly kept on faturdays and 
 fundays, as to the times of eating. I was told of an odd ceremony, they 
 fometimes ufe, to procure leave of the patriarch to eat eggs in Lent; it is 
 faid they take him up in a chair, and aik him if he will give them leave to 
 eat eggs ; on refilling it, they aik if he will be thrown down ; and repeat- 
 ing thefe queftions three or four times, at laft he confents to give them 
 leave to eat eggs in Lent. They often efpoufe at feven or eight, and con- 
 fummate at eleven or twelve; and fome proper time before that, they are 
 circumcifed. The men eafily procure divorces, on account of adultery, 
 long ficknefs, and almoft for any difagreements, and, if the party defires 
 it, they obtain leave of the patriarch or bifhop to marry again ; and if it is 
 refufed, 'tis faid a prieft will notwithftanding fometimes marry either of the 
 parties; but they muft, in that cafe, be excluded from the facrament for 
 fome time : And if their own clergy will not marry them to another, they 
 have recourfe to the Cadi, who will do both ; and this is praftifed by the 
 Chriftians all overTurky. 
 
 The following particulars are partly my own obfervations, and partly 
 collected from others. The Chrifma, or holy oil, which they call the 
 Meiron, is confecrated but once in thirty years by the patriarch ; a whole 
 day is fpent about it, and it is faid they chant the old and new teftament 
 all over at this ceremony ; probably different fetts of them taking diffe- 
 rent parts ; and the archbifhop of ^Ethiopia takes of it when he comes to 
 be confecrated by the patriarch. At baptifm, they plunge the child 
 three times into the water, and then confirm it, and give it the facra- 
 ment, that is, the wine; the prieft dipping the end of his finger in it, and 
 putting it to the child's mouth ; which is done after they have adminifter'd 
 the facrament, for they do not keep the confecrated myfteries. The wo- 
 men ftay in their houfes forty days after they are deliver'd of a boy, and 
 twenty-four after a girl; 'till which time the baptifm is always deferred, 
 and fometimes much longer. The ground of this is the obfervation of the 
 Mofaic law as to the purification of the mother, who muft affift at the 
 
 baptifm. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 baptifm. If the child happens to be lick, before it is baptized, it is brought 
 to church, for they cannot baptize out of the church- they lay the child 
 on a cloth near the font, and the prieft dips his hands in the water, and 
 rubs it all over; and if it is done when there is no facrament, the child 
 and the father and mother muft ftay in the church till the next day. 
 If the child is fo ill that it cannot be brought to church, they then only 
 anoint it, according to the form they have for that purpofe, which they fay 
 is good baptifm. They give abfolution at extreme unction, as they do in 
 the Greek church, and anoint alfo all the people prefent, that the evil fpi- 
 rit may not go into them. Their confeffions are only general. The fub- 
 deacons do not come within the chancel, but read the epiftle at the door. 
 The priefls are obliged to fay an office every day, as long as that of the 
 Roman breviary ; only it is every day the fame, which they have by rote. 
 The deacons have a fhorter form ; but the bifhop's is longer, and the pa- 
 triarch's ftill longer. They ufe the liturgies of St. Bafil, St. Gregory, and 
 St. Cyril ; the firft being the fhorteft, is mod commonly ufed. They ad- 
 minifter the facrament on fundays and holidays, which latter are numerous, 
 and alfo on wednefdays and fridays, and every day in Lent. The priefls 
 prepare for it, by going into the church the evening before, at fun-fet, and 
 do not go out till the ceremony is over ; fpending the night moftly in fing- 
 pfalms ; and fome of the laity fhut themfelves up with them. It 
 d they often make croffes on their arms with powder; and if it is de- 
 anded, whether they are Chriftians, they fhew the crofs. They abftain from 
 bloo i ud things ftrangled. They pray for the dead; but have a notion, 
 t at the foul goes to heaven in forty days, and yet pray for them after- 
 wards. They proftrate themfelves before pictures ; but have no ftatues, 
 except a crucifix. 
 
 What obfervations I made when I attended their fervice almoft an intire 
 night, may give fome infight into their manner of worfhip. On Chriftmas 
 eve, one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-feven, at Akmim in upper 
 Egypt, I went, about feven of the clock in the evening, to the chapel of 
 the Hofpitium of Propaganda Fide, to fee the ceremonies of the catholic 
 Coptis. The prieft began at the defk to chant, and the people with him ; 
 and then retiring to his place to the left, by the altar of St. Francis, they 
 feem'd to chant verfe by verfe, all being in the Coptic language, which 
 none understand ; the people fometimes ringing a fhort hymn in Arabic. 
 Then an old deacon went towards the altar with a candle, and chanted; 
 and turning to the people, read, and retired to his place, which was near 
 the prieft. After having chanted an hour, a prieft came out habited in 
 the cope, with a yellowifh woollen cloth over his head, called Shamely, 
 like the Amynta of the Catholics, having broad ftripes on one fide, of 
 it. This goes under the cope; under which is the furplice, and over that 
 the ftole. The people continued chanting ; after a while, the prieft be- 
 gan to incenfe the altar, and then came down and made a general incenfe 
 to all the people. When he defcends from the altar, he has a deacon be- 
 hind him, with a particular iron crofs, and another crofs on his right hand; 
 and when the prieft ftretches out his hands, both the deacons do the fame, 
 which appears very folemn. After having incenfed the altar, he came 
 down, and incenfed the people in general ; and incenfing the altar a fe- 
 cond time, he came down and incenfed the other prieft, putting his hands 
 4 to 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 to the other's, then he came through the church, and incenfed every one, 
 laying his hand on the head of each perfon. The women are in a feparate 
 place on the right fide of the church, with lattices before it, and a little 
 place opens about breaft high from the ground, out of which the women put 
 their heads, and the prieft lays his hands on them. Another ceremony is 
 holding the crofs, with three lighted candles ftuck on it, which reprefents 
 the trinity, with which he makes fome motions, ftretches out his hands 
 and turns once to the left, his back, being to the people ; after this, one 
 reads at the defk, and another on one fide of it; and fo in about two or 
 three hours, that is about ten a clock, the devotion was finifh'd, and the 
 people retired to ileep till about one a clock. Moft of their chanting is 
 out of the Pfalms; they have thirty pfalms for the night, and five for 
 each of the feven hours of prayer in the day time. I was inform'd, that 
 fome impofe on themfelves the great office of repeating all the pfalms in 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 About one a clock the people afiembled again to attend at the admini- 
 ftration of the facrament; for an hour and a half before it began, they 
 chanted pfalms the fong of Mofes and the three children, the Benedicite, 
 and fome other hymns, the prieft beginning and chanting with them as 
 before; one chorus chanting with him, and another on the other fide, 
 verfe by verfe: At laft the prieft came out, habited as before, and incenfed 
 the altar, and all the people round, three times, and perform 'd the cere- 
 mony again of the three candles; and the epiftle and gofpel being read 
 by the deacons, feven or eight boys, from eight to eighteen, made fhort 
 orations on the nativity, ftanding up before the altar towards the gofpel 
 fide; they did it well, and with good action, being taught by the fathers; 
 this is not done in the other Coptic churches, but they read out of fome 
 legends. The prieft began to celebrate: The bread they ufeis a fmall white 
 cake, it is made only of flower and water unleaven'd ; the Coptis buy the 
 corn with the money of the church, and when made into flower, it is al- 
 ways kept in the church, and the cakes are made by the facriftan, who 
 chants fome pfalms whilft he is about it, and they are bak'd in an Oven 
 near the church, which is put to no other ufe: They never keep the 
 hoft. In the Catholic churches they muft ufe wine; but in the others, 
 they ufe what they call Zebib, though they have wine; becaufe they fay 
 they know not what may be in the wine; but if they have wine only and 
 cannot have Zebib, they ufe it. Zebib is a fort of raifm wine ; they put 
 five Rotolos of new grapes to five of water, or more grapes are ufed if they 
 are older; it is left to fteep feven days in winter and four in fummer; the 
 deacons ftrain it through two bags, one after another, to make it fine ; this 
 keeps feven years, and taftes like a fweet wine that is turn'd a little fowre: 
 They may alfo make wine themfelves for this ufe, of frefti red grapes 
 from the vine. If wine is ufed, they put in a little water. They 'keep 
 the Zebib in a jarr, and flop it clofe, fo that no wind can come to it. The 
 Copti priefts, under pretence they cannot get fruit from Cairo, fay they can- 
 not fay mafs above once a month, though obliged, if poflible, to fay it 
 every Wednefday and Friday in their failing feafons, and every Sunday 
 and holiday. As well as I could obferve, the prieft takes the bread in 
 the paten in the right hand, with the cloth that covers it, and the wine in 
 the cruet, cover'd alfo in like manner, and holds them both fome time 
 
 with 
 
O N EGYPT. 
 
 with his hands ftretch'd out, he then goes behind the altar, by the epiftle 
 door, and comes in by the gofpel door, and places both on the altar; 
 after this he proceeds to confecration, much like the Romans, and breaks 
 the bread. With the Coptis, the prieft turns round and holds the hoft 
 elevated on the chalice, and all the people bend their bodies: Having re- 
 ceived himfelf, the people that receive go behind the altar; and when 
 they are to receive, the firft comes with a towel in his hand on the left 
 fide of the prieft, and holding his head over the table, and the napkin 
 under his chin, the prieft puts the bread into his mouth, he then goes behind 
 again, and gives the towel to the perfon that follows him: In like manner the 
 deacons only receive the wine given them in a fmall fpoon. When the prieft 
 had diftributed to the people, he put the bread into the chalice, and took the 
 bread and wine both together into his mouth, and having wafli'd his hands, 
 he turn'd to the people, who coming to him one by one, he gave them 
 the benediftion with his wet hand's, putting them together after he had 
 touched them: This was a high mafs; and after he had proceeded in it 
 for fome time, another prieft began to celebrate privately at the fide altar, 
 with his head bare and fhaved clofe, having been bred at Rome ; for they 
 fay, that covering of the head was a novelty introduced by the Coptis, 
 contrary to the antient cuftoms and canons. One perfon only received of 
 him, except the deacons that ferved, who kneeling near him, he rofe up to 
 take the elements, as the others, over the table. I obferved, fome received 
 the facrament that were not above ten or eleven years old ; commonly the 
 prieft and deacon only, that aflifts, receive. The men receive with the true 
 Coptis in both kinds ; the prieft carries it to the women, that is, the bread, 
 on which he makes two crofles with the wine, one with his finger dipp'd 
 in the wine, the fecond with the confecrated bread, dipp'd alfo into the 
 wine. If a perfon is fick, they adminifter the facrament in the houfe, and 
 give only the bread. The confecrated myfteries are not kept in the eaft, 
 even by the Roman Catholics; the Coptis commonly receive the facra- 
 ment two or three times a year, but rarely before they are fixteen, except 
 the deacons, unlefs they marry before that age. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 The Hiftory of the Rife of the Nile. 
 
 IT may be proper to obferve, that the fame height of water may be fuf- 
 ficient or not fufBcient to overflow the country at different times, ac- 
 cording to the canals that are cut through the land, and alfo according to 
 the manner in which they are kept open, by carrying off the annual fedi- 
 ment. In antient times they feem to have fear'd inundations more than 
 they do at prefent a want of water, and it is probable, that before the ca- 
 nals were open'd, there was every year fuch an inundation as render'd the 
 country incapable of being cultivated ; as Herodotus obferves, that before the 
 time of Menes, who might open fome canals, all lower Egypt was a marfh • 
 and it was making canals, and caufing a great diverfion of the waters 
 into the lake Maris, when it was neceffary, that drain'd the country, and 
 Vol. I. Sff carried 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 carried off the waters, that would have caufed inundations ; for the greater 
 the outlet of the waters, confequently the more water is required to over- 
 flow the country, and if thefe canals filPd and were obftrufted, the Nile 
 muft overflow fooner than it did before. It feems indeed, when it is once 
 overflow'd from the canals, that lefs water in quantity would be fufEcient 
 for the land, as it muft have been in a manner fill'd with water from the 
 canals cut through it in feveral places, being a fandy foil, through which 
 the waters eafily pafs to the height of the Nile : Though at the fame time, 
 a greater rife might be required after its overflow, to make it rife to the upper 
 lands towards the Nile, than was required after the overflow from its own 
 banks: For there is great reafon to think, that, contrary to what is generally 
 obferved, the plain ground of Egypt is higheft towards the river, and that 
 there is a gentle defcent to the foot of the hills ; and if fo, when the canals 
 were once open'd, and the water let into them, it would fooner overflow the 
 banks of the canals than thofe of the river, after that the canals were cut; 
 though not fooner than before they were cut : But then the water would 
 overflow lefs, fooner abate, drain off, and evaporate, by reafon of the greater 
 outlet; fo that though the canals carried off a great quantity of water, and 
 might by that means make the overflow rather later than if it overflow'd the 
 banks of the river alone, before the canals were cut; yet notwithftanding, 
 it might, in certain feafons and places, overflow them at a time when the 
 water was fo low as not to overflow the banks of the river after the ca- 
 nals were cut; for, though the Nile overflows its own banks at Delta, where 
 they are very low, yet the overflow in the higher parts is moftly by the 
 canals. 
 
 In order likewife to explain what follows, it muft be obferved, that I 
 fuppofe the Nile, when at loweft, to be four cubits high, which I fhall 
 have occafion to explain ; and it muft always be confider'd, that there is 
 a great difference between the Nile's overflowing its own banks before the 
 canals were cut, and after; for in the former cafe, it would overflow 
 them fooner, though the Nile muft be higher than if the canals were 
 cut ; in the latter it would overflow them later, though the Nile need not 
 be fo high, overflowing by the banks of the canal ; on the fuppofltion that 
 the ground is lower at a diftance from the river. 
 
 There are fome grounds to think that the foil of Egypt has rifen fome 
 years near half an inch, without confidering what is carried away of the pro- 
 duce of the earth ; for on the banks of the Nile, I obferved, that the foil 
 was in feveral ftrata or cakes of about that thicknefs, which, as the banks 
 wafh away, feparate and fall down ; but then, as the lofs is great, by car- 
 rying off every year fuch a quantity of the produce of the land, it is dif- 
 ficult to make a computation; and as the bed of the river alfo rifes by 
 the fubfiding of the more heavy particles of earth or fand, though, it may 
 be, not in the fame proportion, fo the real increafe above the bed of the 
 river muft be very fmall ; and as to what is carried off by the produce 
 of the land, though conclufions have been made from experiments, by 
 weighing the earth both before and after a tree has grown in a pot for 
 fome years, that vegetables fubfift moftly by water, and that very little of 
 the earth is incorporated into the body of the plant; yet there may be 
 miftakes with regard to this, as the water, fuch plants have been fupplied 
 with, might not be perfectly clear, as there might be accidental acccf- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 Hons of earth by duft or other means. And we fee likewife, that the ground 
 vifibly finks where vegetables are produced and taken away, and there is no 
 acceflion of manure. However, nothing can be certainly faid as to the 
 rife of the foil; for thefe banks being high, poffibly thefe ftrata of earth 
 might be made only at the time of fuch inundations as overflow'd thefe 
 banks, when we are to fuppofe the fediment muft have been greater than 
 in the ordinary overflow. It is pofiible alfo, that they might not be the fe- 
 diment of one year. But as to the height of water that is neceffary, that 
 muft always have differ'd in proportion to the outlet of the waters ; fo 
 that from confidering how much the Nile ought to rife for the benefit of 
 the country, no fort of computation can be made, how much the foil has 
 rifen, all this depending on the openings there are for the waters, on their 
 breadth and their depth, on their being kept clean or negle&ed: So that, 
 if there were no greater reafons for keeping the canals clean, than for let- 
 ting them fill up, it is apprehended, the country in general would be in 
 lefs danger of a want of water, in that cafe, than if they were permitted 
 to choak up ; but then the villages would be in greater want of water when 
 it was gone off ; and particularly in one inftance, as the canals would be 
 much fooner dry, in cafe they were in fome meafure filled up; which 
 appear'd when I was in Egypt, with regard to the canal of Alexandria, 
 which after it was cleanfed, had water in it two months longer than it had 
 the year before. I would alfo obferve, that in very few parts the overflow 
 extends quite to the mountains ; it may have reach'd very near them in 
 fome great inundations, and the fediment might afterwards be cover'd over 
 with fand; in relation to which a great number of curious experiments 
 might be made by digging down and examining to fee if there are any 
 ftrata of good foil, how many, how far beneath the prefent furface, of 
 what depth, and how far they extended. 
 
 To go on then with the hiftory of the rife of the Nile. Herodotus 
 fpeaks of the rife of the Nile from the bottom of its bed ; and probably 
 as foon as one cubit was compleated, call'd what was above it by the name 
 of the other. He fays, the Nile did not overlpread the country, unlefs it 
 rofe to fixteen cubits, or at leaft fifteen; and, as to what he obferves, that 
 nine hundred years before, in the time of Myris, eight cubits were fuffi- 
 cient ; it is pofiible, this tradition might be of its rife, and not of its height 
 from the bottom ; in which fenfe Herodotus indeed feems to underftand it, 
 otherwife the truth of it is very much to be doubted : Nor can it well be 
 accounted for, on any fuppofition, unlefs we fuppofe, that the canals were 
 cut after Myris's time, and fo made a greater life of the Nile neceffary, and 
 that afterwards they might gradually fill up, and then again a lefs height 
 of water might be required fufficiently to overflow the country : So that, 
 in order to reconcile thefe accounts, we are to fuppofe, that Herodotus 
 fpeaks of fifteen or fixteen cubits in his time from the bottom of the Nile; 
 but that, where he mentions eight cubits, an account which he had by tra- 
 dition, that might be the way of exprefiing themfelves of the rife only of the 
 Nile in the more antient times ; fo that the height of the water, when at low- 
 eft, ought to be added to it, which computing it to be in proportion to the 
 number of fuppofed pikes that it is at prefent; about four cubits muft be al- 
 low'd for the height of the Nile, when at loweft, which would make the 
 height of the water twelve cubits ; fo that in all thefe accounts, if we except 
 
 that 
 
OBSERV ATI ONS 
 
 that of the time of Herodotus, it feems to be neceffary to add the height 
 the Nile is at when at loweft, to the height of its increafe, which might 
 be, as faid, about four cubits. Strabo fpoke of the cubits from the in- 
 creafe, and not from the bottom, and feems always to have mention' d the 
 full number, and not to call the cubits by a higher number, as foon as it 
 rofe to compleat the laft; for, he fays, before Petronius's time, the earth 
 was very fruitful, when the Nile rofe fourteen cubits, but when it rofe on- 
 ly eight, a famine enfued. If we add four cubits to the one, and the o- 
 ther that makes twelve, and eighteen, which is fomething more than the 
 meafures of Herodotus's time, lixteen and eleven ; fo that if we fuppofe 
 it to rife a cubit higher than twelve, to make it thirteen, we may ima- 
 gine it was then a Nile, that would at leaft deliver Egypt from famine; as 
 Herodotus feems to lay, that fifteen was a middling Nile to overflow the 
 land, and fixteen a good one, fo fourteen was likewife probably in his 
 time an indifferent rife, as fixteen was a good one ; therefore the good 
 Nile before Petronius's time, differ'd but two cubits from what was a 
 good one in Herodotus's time, yet the bad Nile was probably at twelve 
 only, which is two cubits lower than Herodotus's fuppofed bad Nile, which 
 might be owing to opening canals ; fo that, tho' a cubit more might be ne- 
 ceffary to overflow the lands plentifully before Petronius's time, than what 
 was in Herodotus's, the earth being rifen, and canals made; yet, canals being 
 made, it was not a bad Nile, tho' two cubits lower than the bad Nile of 
 Herodotus ; becaufe a lefs height occafion'd it to overflow, in fome mea- 
 fure, as the banks of the canals were lower than the banks of the river ; 
 tho' to overflow it plentifully, a greater height might be required to over- 
 flow the upper lands ; for when they were once cover'd, a lefs height of 
 water after the overflow, tho' not lefs in quantity as to what was drunk up 
 by the earth, might be neceffary, for the reafons mention'd ; for when it 
 once overflow'd from its own banks, it overfpread the whole country, had 
 not fuch outlets to carry it off at firft, or drain it off afterwards ; fo that 
 the rifing a very little higher might be fufhcient, in this cafe, tho' not in 
 the other. 
 
 The great advantage of opening the canals, appears from Strabo's ac- 
 count ; he fays, before Petronius's time, if it rofe eight cubits only, there 
 was a famine, and fourteen caufed a great plenty ; but in Petronius's time, 
 a rife of eight cubits preferved the country from famine, and twelve was 
 a plentiful rife. For Strabo, obferving the advantage of banks, to confine 
 the Nile within its bed, and the water of the canals within their beds, to 
 be diftributed in a proper manner, as he muft be underftood, fays, that in 
 the time of Petronius (who probably open'd the canals, and raifed the 
 banks) twelve cubits, and four added to them, making fixteen, caufed a 
 great plenty of the fruits of the earth ; and when it was only eight, ad- 
 ding four to make them twelve compleat, there was notwithftanding no 
 famine in the land. 
 
 In Kalkafendas's quotation of the rife from the bottom, in the time of 
 Almafudi, in the year feven hundred of the Hegira, or one thoufand three 
 hundred and twenty-four of Chrift, it is faid, that if the Nile rofe twelve 
 pikes only, there was famine ; fourteen pikes caufed plenty for one year, 
 and fixteen would produce fufficient for two years, but not for the grafs ; 
 and when it came to feventeen, that is, fixteen compleat, it was ftill bet- 
 ter; 
 
 i 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 ter ; but what was fear'd was its compleating feventeen, and entering oft 
 eighteen, which was an inundation. 
 
 In Myris's time, a good Nile from the rife 
 In the time of Herodotus, a good Nile 
 
 Indifferent Nile 
 
 Bad Nile, fuppofed to be 
 
 Before Petronius — ■ — — 
 
 Bad Nile 
 
 Cubits or pikes Cubits or pikes 
 begun. compleated. 
 
 In Petronius's time 
 
 Indifferent 
 
 Suppofed bad 
 
 In feven hundred of the Hegira, or one thoufand 
 three hundred twenty-four, bad Nile 
 
 Indifferent 1 
 
 Good Nile 
 Very good 
 
 Inundations that hurt fome lands 
 
 In Omar's time, in the year twenty-nine of the Hegira, 7 
 or fix hundred and fifty-four of Chrift ; bad J 
 Indifferent, fufficient for one year's provifion 
 
 Good for two years provifion 1 
 
 Inundation ■ — 
 
 At prefent 
 
 Bad under 
 Indifferent 
 Good - 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 *5 
 
 I J 
 
 •4 
 
 14 
 
 '3 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 *3 
 
 *J 
 
 r 4 
 
 !J 
 
 l S 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 I Z 
 
 1 1 
 
 14 
 
 J 3 
 
 16 
 
 »'J 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 Inundation above 
 
 In Kalkafendas's time, eighteen pikes do not feem to have been fear'd 
 as an inundation, as may be feen in the paragraphs " Plurimis annis, &c." 
 And, " Vidi in Hiftoria Nili, &c *. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 An attempt towards fettling the real Rile of the Nile. 
 
 TH E fiibjefi of the rife of the Nile is fo difficult, that I am fenfible, 
 what I fhall fay on it, as well as what I have faid, will require 
 more than ordinary attention, to be in any meafure underflood, and 
 will be comprehended only by often confidering the feveral authors that 
 have wrote on it, and what obfervations have been made on this fubjerft ; 
 a trouble that probably will not be undertaken by any, but thofe who are 
 fo curious as to go into Egypt, and endeavour by feeing the Nilometer, 
 and obferving every thing they can in relation to this affair, to fettle a 
 
 * See Dr. Shaw. Excerpta e Kalkafenda de Nilo et Nilometfo. 
 
 Vol. I. T t t 
 
 matter 
 
OBSERVATION S 
 
 matter of fail, that has hitherto been fo much in the dark ; and for fuch 
 this attempt is chiefly defign'd ; not that I pofitively affirm any thing, but 
 what is writ on this fubjeft is only intended as fo many hints to be confi- 
 der'd by others, in order to find out the real truth, in relation to this diffi- 
 cult fubjeft ; for there is nothing the world has been fo much deceived in, 
 as about the real rife of the Nile ; and fome great men have reafon'd 
 on it, upon a fuppofition, that it rifes near fifty feet, or twenty-four pikes, 
 of above two feet each: And when the Nile has been faid to be of fuch a 
 height, they have imagined, that it had rifen fo high above its furface, 
 when at loweft ; fo that, in order to make this affair as clear as poffible, 
 I have made the following obfervations. 
 
 That in the time of Omar Alketab, about the twenty- ninth of the Hegira, 
 or fix hundred and fifty-fourth year of Chrift, the mcafuring pillar con- 
 fifted of twelve pikes, and that he added two more to it; which is proved 
 from this quotation of Kalkafendas, from the above- mention'd abftracft: 
 
 " Omar call'd Ali, the fon of Abu-Taleb to the council, who 
 
 " advifed that he fhould order a Nilometer to be built, and that he fhould 
 " add two cubits to the twelve cubits." 
 
 That from the time of Omar, they had five imaginary cubits, or pikes, 
 below the pillar, to anfwer to the height of the Nile, when at loweft, 
 which appears from the words of Kalkafendas below, in which mention 
 is made of eighteen pikes ; for, otherwife, they could not reckon eighteen 
 on a pillar only of twelve pikes, thefe making feventeen compleat with the 
 twelve, which brings to the eighteenth : And it is to be obferved, that they 
 gave it the name of the pike it was rifing to, as foon as any pike was 
 compleated. 
 
 The words of Kalkafendas are thefe : " When the Nile has rifen to the 
 " feventeenth, then it goes on increafing to the eighteenth." Thefe five 
 pikes, which might be fuch as I fhall explain below, as I fuppofe them to 
 be at prefent, might anfwer pretty near in meafure to the four cubits I 
 fuppofe the antients allow'd for the height of the Nile when at loweft. 
 
 That to the firft twelve pikes the water rofe to, they reckon'd twenty- 
 eight digits taken from the two pikes added, to make the twelve pikes of 
 twenty-four digits, fo many pikes of twenty-eight digits. It is to be ob- 
 ferved, that in thefe the five imaginary pikes are comprehended. This is 
 proved from thefe words of Kalkafendas : " When they fuppofe the Nile 
 " to rife to fixteen cubits, they diftributed the two cubits over and a- 
 " bove, that are of twenty-eight digits, (which I fhould rather think to 
 " be a miftake for twenty-four) to the twelve cubits of twenty-four digits, 
 " and fo every cubit is twenty-eight digits." That therefore the two cu- 
 bits added, were diftributed to the twelve firft cubits. It is to be obferved, 
 that I make ufe of the word digits, for the divifion of pikes or cubits, be- 
 caufe, in fome places, I fuppofe them to be different from inches. 
 
 That when the water rofe to above twelve cubits, they reckon'd only 
 twenty-four digits to a cubit ; proved from thefe words of Kalkafendas : 
 " Every cubit contains twenty-eight digits, until the water rifes to twelve 
 " cubits, and then the cubit confifts of twenty-four digits." 
 
 That the manner of computation has been alter'd ; the higheft having 
 been eighteen pikes, whereas now it is twenty-four; the pillar alfo feems to 
 have been changed. 
 
 4 The 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 The account they now give is, that the fixteen loweft pikes are of 
 twenty- eight inches or rather digits; that the four next are of twenty-fix, 
 and the four higheft of twenty-four. 
 
 That according to the account in a drawing of the Mikias, the higheft 
 pike or twenty- fourth, is the beam over the capital. 
 
 That the twenty-third pike is the capital. 
 
 That the twenty-firft and twenty-fecond are pikes, mark'd on the pillar 
 fhorter than thofe below. 
 
 That the four next pikes mark'd on the pillar, are pikes of twenty-fix 
 digits, or divifions, and it may be examined, if they are not divided into 
 twenty-fix parts. 
 
 That the eleven pikes above the five imaginary ones, are pikes of twen- 
 ty-eight digits. 
 
 I obferved the divifions of the lower pikes, much larger than thofe of 
 the upper pikes. 
 
 I fuppofe, that there are in each of the other twenty-four divifions, two 
 digits, that is, in all forty-eight digits. 
 
 So that a little more than fix of thefe pikes on the pillar, make eleven 
 of the pikes of twenty-eight digits, which contain three hundred and 
 eight digits, whereas fix pikes of forty-eight digits make two hun- 
 dred eighty-eight digits, wanting only ten divifions, of two digits each, 
 to compleat the number of the eleven pikes ; fo that poffibly there may 
 be fix pikes and a half, or feven pikes of this kind, mark'd out on the 
 pillar, making it as low as the Nile ever was known to fall, which poffi- 
 bly might be four pikes and a half, or even four. The reafons for thefe 
 fuppofitions are, that going into the Mikias in June, one thoufand feven 
 hundred and thirty-eight, when they faid the Nile was at loweft, a little 
 more than eleven pikes were above water, befides the capital and beam. 
 But as thirteen pikes only, with the capital and beam, were above the 
 Water, when the Nile was at the loweft, there could not be above five or 
 fix under the water, according to the account they give ; to fuppofe which, 
 does not fo well agree with feveral circumftances as the other fuppofi- 
 tion. 
 
 There are two things travellers will do well to obferve' firft, whether 
 the divifions of the fix upper pikes, are not much lefs than thofe below ; 
 and fecondly, whether the third, fourth, fifth and fixth from the capital, 
 are not divided into twenty-fix parts: And going into the Mikias at the 
 time of low Nile, when on the laft ftep, they might, as it were acciden- 
 tally, with a long pipe in their hands, try whether they could reach the 
 bottom ; by which it would be known whether the pillar goes down fo 
 far, or not. 
 
 It is alfo to be remark'd, that it would anfwer no end to have the pil- 
 lar go down lower than the furface of the Nile at loweft ; becaufe it was 
 intended to fhew the rife of the Nile, which is a circumftantial proof, that 
 it does not reach lower. It is alfo to be obferved, that in the Mikias there 
 are three flights of fteps down; the firft of one and twenty degrees, the 
 next of four, and I faw feven of the laft flight : They fay, there are fifty 
 in all ; to which I do not give credit. 
 
 When it is a good Nile, and the water about twenty-three pikes high, 
 it is faid, it comes to the top of Mofes's fteps, and there are twenty-fix 
 
 of 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 ef thbfe fteps down to a landing place, where the women ftand to wafh; 
 and when the Nile was at loweft, I faw two fteps above water, that were 
 below this place; twenty-eight in all: The other fteps in the Mikias not 
 being fo deep, there were thirty-three of them above water. 
 
 To this I have added what I obferved the two laft times I was in the 
 Mikias. On the feventeenth of May, one thoufand feven hundred and 
 thirty-nine, eleven pikes of the pillar were above the water, excepting the 
 capital of the pillar; and fix fteps of the laft flight were above water. 
 They were to begin to clean out the Mikias in two days after. I obferved, 
 at Mofes's flairs, there are twenty-fix fteps down to the place where the 
 women ftand to wafh ; and at this time I faw the water a little lower. 
 
 Returning, I faw them moving away the mud from the mouth of the 
 canal that goes through Cairo, leaving a column of earth, that was then 
 about eight feet high, which I mention'd before, on another occafion. 
 
 On the third of June following, I went the laft time into the Mikias, 
 after it had been clean'd. Eleven pikes and a half of the pillar appear'd, 
 and feven fteps of the laft flight were above water. I obferv'd, there were 
 only twenty-one fleps in the firft flight, befldes the upper one, which was 
 but half the depth of the others, and rifes above the floor ; and I took 
 notice, that the top of the capital of the pillar was even with the bottom 
 of the fecond ftep. 
 
 At Mofes's ftairs, another ftep appear'd, befldes thofe I faw before. It 
 was expefted at this time, that the Nile would begin to rife very foon; 
 and fome faid, that it had begun to rife. 
 
 I here add an account I procur'd in Cairo, of the rife of the Nile for 
 three years ; and in reckoning the pikes, it muft be remembred, that the 
 firft fixteen, including the five or fix firft of the height of the Nile when 
 at loweft, are pikes of twenty eight digits; the next four, of twenty-fix, 
 and the reft, of twenty-four. The day they declare the Nile is rifen fix- 
 teen pikes, they call Ophila ; that is, The will of God is compleated. 
 
 In one thoufand feven hundred and fourteen, on the twenty-ninth of June, 
 the Nile was five pikes high, and rofe every day fo many digits as are 
 mark'd, twenty-eight of which make a pike for the eleven loweft pikes, 
 and twenty fix for the four next. 
 
 Pikes 
 
 tune 29 Water high r 
 
 
 
 
 Digits 
 
 IS 
 
 8 
 
 June 30 
 
 the Nile rofe 3 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 July 1 
 
 z 
 
 '7 
 
 '5 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 *S 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 •S 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 
 8 ' 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 2 3 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 
 I 
 
 '3 
 
 4 
 
 26 
 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 Digits Pikes 
 
 Digits 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 *57 
 
 
 
 Digits Pikes 
 
 
 Digits Pike 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 20 
 
 3° 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 July 1 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 3° 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 3 1 
 
 
 48 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Auguft 1 the Canal was cut 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 In 1715, on 
 
 the 30* 
 
 of June the water was 
 
 9 
 
 s 
 
 fix pikes high 
 
 6 Pikes 
 
 
 — — I 
 
 
 
 Digits 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 Tulv T 
 
 it rofe 
 
 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 '3 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 4 
 
 H 
 
 Q 
 
 O 
 
 6 
 
 
 5 
 
 '5 
 
 a ' 7 V' - " 
 
 7 
 
 
 6 
 
 ID 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 : 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 
 7 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 b 
 
 10 
 
 
 8 
 
 '9 
 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 H 
 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 5 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 s 7 
 
 
 4 
 
 25 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 6 
 
 J 9 
 
 
 4 
 
 28 
 
 t 
 
 20 
 
 
 J 
 
 5 
 
 21 
 
 
 4 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 
 8 
 
 3° 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 
 5° 
 
 3 r 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 Auguft 1 
 
 8 
 
 24 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 ' 1 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2 5 
 
 
 75 
 3 
 
 Ophila 3 
 
 5° 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 4 16 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 . 3 ** 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 In 1738, it rofe as follows; the Nile being 
 
 7 8 
 
 J 
 
 five pikes 
 
 high. 
 
 5 Pikes 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 
 Digits 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 June 20 
 
 it rofe 2 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 3 
 
 Ji 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 2 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 '3 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 25 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 26 
 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 27 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 8 
 
 ! 7 
 
 4 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 
 
 U u u 
 
 
 Digits 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Pikes 
 
 3 9 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 Digits 
 5 
 3 
 3 
 4 
 3 
 4 
 
 3 4 of 2 6 Digits 
 
 2 5 
 26 
 27 
 
 29 
 3° 
 
 Digits 
 S 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 As they publifh fuch an extraordinay rife, as fifty inches, about the time 
 that they declare, it is rifen fixteen pikes, it is probable, that they keep 
 private the real rife before that time ; which may be a piece of policy of 
 the people not to pay their rents, if it does not rife to eighteen pikes ; for 
 unlefs it rifes fo high, they have but an indifferent year; and poflibly, 
 when they declare, that the Nile is fixteen pikes high, it may be rilen to 
 eighteen ; and the Pafha, who open'd the canal, before they declared, it had 
 riien to fixteen pikes, might have affurances, that it was rifen fo high; but 
 as it might abate foon after, fo they would not pay the tribute notwith- 
 ftanding. Nobody but the Pallia, or one from him, can enter the Mikias 
 when the Nile is rifing, except the people that belong to it; and not- 
 withftanding, they fay they keep the manner of computing the rife of the 
 Nile, as a myftery even from the Palha and his people, which may be 
 for the reafons I have mention'd above. 
 
 The following account was alfo given me in Cairo, of the times when 
 the canal was cut, on the rifing of the Nile to fixteen pikes, for forty- 
 fix years before, fpecifying almoft every year. 
 
 1692 
 
 9 Auguft 
 
 1711 
 
 2 July 
 
 1693 
 
 7- 
 
 1712 
 
 10 Auguft 
 
 1694 
 
 1 Sept. plague and famine 
 
 !7'3 
 
 6 
 
 1695 
 
 13 Auguft 
 
 1714 
 
 3 
 
 1696 
 
 »4 
 
 1715 
 
 1 
 
 1697 
 
 11 
 
 1718 
 
 26 July 
 
 1698 
 
 7 
 
 1720 
 
 22 Auguft 
 
 1699 
 
 *5 
 
 1721 
 
 5 
 
 1700 
 
 5 
 
 1722 
 
 9 
 
 1701 
 
 17 
 
 1723 
 
 15 
 
 1702 
 
 '5 
 
 1724 
 
 IJ 
 
 J 7°3 
 
 18 
 
 1725 
 
 12 
 
 1704 
 
 2 
 
 1727 
 
 '7 
 
 1705 
 
 19 September plague 
 
 3 734 
 
 30 July 
 
 1706 
 
 9 Auguft 
 
 J 735 
 
 2 S 
 
 j 707 
 
 10 
 
 1736 
 
 4 Auguft 
 
 1708 
 
 4 
 
 '737 
 
 3 
 
 1709 
 
 4 
 
 1738 
 
 4 
 
 1710 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 ^59 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the method of Cultivating and preparing Rice, about 
 Rosetto : Of the manner of making Sal Armoniac} 
 and of hatching Chickens in Ovens. 
 
 BETWEEN the full moon and new moon in February, they take Cultivation 
 bafkets of rice well dried, with the hulk on ; they tie down the of nce ' 
 cover of the bafket, and put it into the water, leaving the top a little above 
 water, fo as that the fun may fhine on it ; it remains there, till the feed 
 begins to moot ; then they take the basket out of the water, and put it 
 and the grain in the open air to dry. The water that comes out of the 
 basket of rice they throw on the land, where they defign to fow it, but 
 they throw away the water that runs from the bottom of the basket ; both 
 which practices feem to be fome fuperftition. After this, they take the 
 rice, and fow it, as they do other grain, and immediately overflow the 
 land with water, a palm deep, and fo they leave it for ten days ; when, 
 the rice begins to grow, they draw off the water, and leave it fo for two 
 days ; afterwards they juft cover the earth with water ; but then they muft 
 draw off the water every day, and convey frefh water to it ; and take 
 care to keep the ground well weeded ; and when the rice is about a palm 
 and a half high, they take it up where it is too thick, and plant it in 
 thofe places where it is thin ; and then they give it a palm of water, and 
 leave it fo until it is ripe, which is in about feven months after it is 
 fown. When it is ripe, they cut it down, put it in a clean place, and 
 threfh it, take away the ftraw, and leave the rice to dry well in the fun, 
 putting it in heaps by night and fpreading it out by day, till it is thoroughly 
 dry. They then put it in the warehoufe, where they have machines of 
 iron to take off the outer husk, as before defcribed. When that is done, 
 they mix fome fait with it, about half a meafure, which is feven okes and 
 a half to twelve meafures or one hundred and fifty okes, which is an A- 
 deb of rice. They put the fait in an oven, that it may become dry and 
 hard, and beat the lumps of fait and rice together, that the fait may pe- 
 netrate into the rice, to whiten and preferve it. After this they clean 
 the rice well, and feparate all the duft from it. 
 
 A notion has prevail'd, that Sal Armoniac was made of the fand on of Sal A 
 which camels had ftaled, and that a great number going to the temple ™>niac. 
 of Jupiter Amnion, gave occafion for the name of Ammoniac, corrupted 
 to Armoniac. Whether it ever could be made by taking up the fand and 
 preparing it with fire, as they do the dung at prefent, thofe who are ac- 
 quainted with the nature of thefe things, will be beft able to judge. I 
 was inform'd, that it is made of the foot which is caufed by burning the 
 dung of cows and other animals. The hotter it is, the better it produces; 
 and for that reafon, the dung of pidgeons is the beft; that of camels is 
 alfo much efteem'd. In order to make fuel of it, they mix it, if I 
 miftake not, with chopp'd ftraw, and I think fometimes with earth, and 
 make it into cakes and dry it, and it is burnt by the common people in 
 Egypt ; for the wood they burn at Cairo is very dear, as it is brought from 
 
 Afia 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Afia Minor. They put the foot, that is made by this fuel, into round thin 
 vafes of glafs, made in Cairo, with fhort necks abput two inches diameter, 
 fuch as are reprefented in the feventy-firft plate at A. They cover thefe 
 glaffes with a coat, a quarter of an inch thick, made of earth and hulks of 
 flax, chopped and mixed together ; and when it is dried in the fun, they 
 lay on fuch another coat, half an inch thick, and dry it in like manner. 
 They then fill the glaffes within an inch of the neck. The houfe it is. 
 made in is divided into four parts, as may be feen in the fame plate at C. 
 , with arches built in each part, about three feet high, and two feet thick, 
 and about as far apart; between which they place the glaffes, fo as that 
 they may reft on the walls of the arches, there being about fix glafles 
 placed in one row, each three feet diameter. Between them are placed 
 fmaller glafles, about ten inches diameter ; under them they make a fire 
 of the earth of the Nile, and ftraw mixed, which I have been told, they 
 burn alfo for other ufes. A great fire is kept up, as they inform'd me, for 
 feventy-two hours conftantly, in which time all the fait is boil'd up to 
 the top. The vafes, when taken out, are like earthen ware ; and, break- 
 ing them, they take out the cakes of fait, in the form in which it comes 
 to us. 
 
 Of hatching nle tJ 10C } f hatching chickens in ovens may be reckon'd among the 
 
 chickens in I i • r > i i i l lr 
 
 ovens. arts peculiar to Egypt. I have been iniorm d, that only the people ol one 
 village are mafters of this art, and that at the proper time of the year, they 
 fpread themfelves all over Egypt. The feafon for it is when the weather is 
 temperate, about February and March. A plan of the places under ground, 
 where they hatch them, may be feen in the feventy-firft plate at B. they 
 have fuch almoft in every town. In the apartment F. they keep a 
 fmothering fire of horfe-dung and chopp'd ftraw, to be difpofed of in the 
 apartments where the chickens are hatch'd ; it is exceedingly troublefome 
 to go in, by reafon of the fmoak. The gallery, G. has holes at top, as 
 mark'd in the plan, and on each fide of it, are five rooms, about ten feet 
 fquare, and four high, with holes at top likewife. They buy their eggs 
 at the rate of feven or eight for a Medine, or three farthings, and put 
 them in heaps in the lower cells for eight days, laying the burning dung 
 and chopp'd ftraw along in the channel, d. in the gallery ; and turn them 
 by moving the heaps three times a day : They then carry them into the 
 upper apartments, and, fpreading them, fo as only to cover the floor, and 
 turning them in like manner, they put the fire in the channels and within 
 the apartments, and open or fliut the holes at top, as they find occafion: 
 In two and twenty days they begin to hatch. They leave them in the 
 ovens till they are perfectly dry, and then put them in the gallery, and the 
 people come and buy them, two or three for a Medine, and carry them 
 away in fieves. If it happens to thunder, great numbers of the eggs mif- 
 carry. This manner of hatching is not fo natural as the common way, 
 and the chickens often want a claw or a rump, or are fome way or other 
 imperfect. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 26 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Of the Proceffion of the Caravan to Mecca. 
 
 TH E proceffion was in this manner : 
 1 . One iron cannon and fix brafs cannon on neat carriages, each 
 of them drawn by two horfes. 
 
 2. Four frames in embroider'd cafes, I fuppofe of leather, for holding 
 powder and ball, drawn by men on foot. 
 
 3. Seven camels with the provifion of the Emir Hadge, or Prince of 
 the pilgrims. 
 
 4. Four camels with perfons on them that play'd on fome mufical in- 
 strument. 
 
 j. A tartavan or litter, carried by four mules. 
 
 6. Eight light litters of the Emir Hadge, each carried by two camels. 
 
 7. Seventy camels loaded with bifcuit. 
 
 8. Fourteen with oil and butter. 
 
 p. Fifty with corn, and one with two long boxes of large wax candles 
 for the fervice of the houfe of Mecca. 
 
 10. Ten with fugar, coffee, and the like. 
 
 11. Four with kitchen utenfils. 
 ii. Nine with plates. 
 
 13. Eight with the kitchen tent, and tables for the cooks. 
 
 14. Eighty-fix camels of the Emir Hadge, not loaded. 
 
 1 j. Twelve others in the fame manner, very finely caparifon'd. 
 
 16. Sixty camels of the Emir Hadge, not loaded. 
 
 17. Fifty-four camels loaded with water. 
 
 18. Ten loaded with tents. 
 
 1 9. Eight camels loaded with water. 
 
 20. Twelve with a fort of boxes on each fide to carry the fick; two 
 of the boxes being cover'd, in which, if I miltake not, were medicines 
 for the lick ; and on one were two boards, with holes in them, for waffl- 
 ing the dead on. All thefe are faid to have been fome private benefaction. 
 
 2 1 . Two camels, on which were the perfons that take care of the fick. 
 
 22. Men on camels, beating kettle drums, as almoft at the end of every 
 firing of camels. 
 
 Near half an hour after thefe; the reft proceeded in the following 
 order. 
 
 2 3 . Six camels loaded with iron frames, in which they make fires. 
 
 24. A litter. 
 
 25. Four loaded camels. 
 
 16. One camel with kettle drums on it, and two men, each beating a 
 drum. 
 
 27. Twenty camels without loads. 
 
 28. Two cafes for ball and powder. 
 
 20. Six camels loaded with tents and other things. 
 30. Five cafes for ball and powder. 
 
 3 1 . Ten camels loaded with water. 
 32. One camel with kettle drums. 
 
 Vol. I. X x x 3 3. Two 
 
OBSERVATION S 
 
 33. Two cafes with ball and powder. 
 
 34. A litter. 
 
 3 j. Two camels loaded. 
 
 3 6. One with mufic. 
 
 3 7. Thirty-one camels not loaded. 
 
 38. Ten overfeers of camels to carry water, given by fome Califs and 
 Sultans of Egypt and others. 
 
 30. Three camels without mufic. 
 
 40. Twenty camels with loads. ' 
 
 4 1 . Two camels with water. 
 
 41. Sixteen overfeers of the water, on horfes. 
 
 43. Three men on camels. 
 
 44. Twenty unloaded camels. 
 
 45. Four cafes for ball and powder. 
 
 46. Two camels loaded with water. 
 
 47. The Imam, or head Sheik, on a camel, who is chaplain of the cara- 
 van, and offers up the prayers at the place ' of Abraham's facrifice. His 
 outward garment of ceremony was white ; he carried a green flag, and 
 bleffed the people with his right hand, by holding it out, and moving it 
 gently, as they do when they falute, but not bringing it to his breaft. 
 
 48. Eleven camels not loaded. 
 
 49. Three with pilgrims on them, 
 jo. Two camels with mufic. 
 
 j 1. Twenty- two without loads. 
 
 yi. Two camels with Sheiks on them, who lead the way on the road. 
 
 53. Twenty camels loaded with water, one with drums. 
 
 54. Ten without loads. 
 
 j j. Five loaded with water. 
 
 j 6. The banner of the body of Spahis, call'd Cherkes. 
 57. Thirty of their body. 
 
 j8. Twenty lkiars of that body, each having a pike carried before him. 
 5-9. The Sardar of the Cherkes, and his lieutenant. 
 
 60. Three or four led horfes. 
 
 61. Two Seraches, who are fervants under him. 
 6 1 , Twelve flaves on horfes. 
 
 63. Sixty of the body call'd Tuphekjees. 
 
 64. Thirty lkiars, or elders of them. 
 
 65. Four flaves on horfeback, in coats of mail made of wire. 
 
 66. One and twenty flaves. 
 
 67. Twenty men on camels, molt of them flaves of the Sardar. 
 
 68. Two led camels for the Sardar. 
 <5o. Two camels without loads. 
 
 70. Two camels with kettle-drums. 
 
 71. Seven with baggage. 
 
 y%. Fifty of the body of the Gjumelues. 
 
 73. Their Sardar. 
 
 74. Twenty foldiers, and ten flaves with bows and arrows. 
 7j. Thirteen camels with men on them. 
 
 76. Two camels with kettle-drums. 
 
 77. Four loaded camels. 
 
 78. Two 
 3 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 78. Two officers, call'd Oda Bafhas. 
 
 79. Two led horfes. 
 
 80. Two Sabederiks in Caftans. 
 
 81. Seven camels faddled. 
 8 i. Two led horfes. 
 
 8 3 . Two Oda Bafhas. 
 84. One camel. 
 
 8 j. Thirty-four Choufes, or meffengers of the divan. 
 
 86. Other officers. 
 
 87. Then came the officers of the Emir Hadge; particularly thefe that 
 
 follow. 
 
 88. A Chous, or meffenger in black. 
 80. Three ftandards. 
 
 90. Five faddle-camels. 
 pi. Eight led horfes. 
 
 92. Two Seraches. 
 
 93. Two janizaries. 
 
 94. Two Caias of the Emir Hadge. 
 
 9 j. The Hafnadar, or treafurer of the Emir Hadge. 
 
 96. Twenty-fix faddle camels. 
 
 97. Five horfes. 
 
 98. One faddle-camel. 
 
 99. Twenty-eight men on camels ; two of them playing on mulical in- 
 ftruments. 
 
 100. Five loaded camels. 
 
 1 01. Next came the body of the Azabs. 
 
 102. Their two Sabederiks. 
 
 103. Odabaffias. 
 
 1 04. The ftandard of the Azabs. 
 
 10 j. Three in Caftans, who walked. 
 
 106. Three Azabs in drefs of ceremony. 
 
 1 07. The Sardar, and his lieutenant. 
 
 108. Saddle-camels. 
 
 109. Men on loaded camels. 
 
 1 10. Mufic. 
 
 1 1 1 . A body of Azabs. 
 
 1 1 2. Then follow 'd the janizaries. 
 
 113. Two Sabederiks of that body. 
 
 114. Two janizaries. 
 
 115. Two Seraches. 
 ii 6. A ftandard. 
 
 117. Three men walking, in Caftans. 
 
 118. Three janizaries. 
 
 119. The Sardar of the janizaries, and 
 
 120. His lieutenant. 
 
 121. Two janizaries. 
 
 122. Two faddle-camels. 
 
 123. Thirty-four men on camels. 
 
 124. Eight loaded camels. 
 1 2 j. A body of janizaries. 
 
 1 16. One 
 
OBSERV ATI ONS 
 
 1 16. One ftandard-bearer. 
 
 127. Another dreffed in a leopard's fkin. 
 
 128. One and twenty Choufes. 
 
 129. The Agas of the feven military bodies, with filver chains hanging 
 from their bridles to their breaft- plates. 
 
 130. Twelve Beys. 
 
 1 j 1. Before each of them two Shatirs, with black velvet turbants. 
 
 132. The Trucheman Aga. 
 
 133. TheMuteferricaBafhee. 
 
 134. The Muteferrica guards. 
 1 3 j. The Choufler Caia. 
 
 136. The guard of Chaoufes. 
 
 137. Then follow'd the immediate attendants of the Emir Hadge. 
 
 138. Eighteen janizaries in their drefs of ceremony. 
 
 139. Four officers of the Pafha. 
 
 140. Four janizaries. 
 
 141. A ftandard. 
 
 142. Two ftandards. 
 
 143. Four Arab Sheiks. 
 
 1 44. Two mad Sheiks, bare-headed, in white ffiirts. 
 
 145. The Emir Hadge, in a rich Caftan, and on a beautiful horfe, ad- 
 orn'd with the richeft trappings. 
 
 146. About forty foldiers. 
 
 147. Two janizaries. 
 
 148. The Caia of the divan. 
 
 149. Sixty flaves with bows and arrows. 
 1 jo. Two Imams. 
 
 151. Four led horfes. 
 
 ij2. Three ftandards. 
 
 1 53. A band of mufic. 
 
 1J4. Four led camels. 
 
 155. Twenty-fix camels loaded. 
 
 1 j 6. Two men on camels. 
 
 157. Then came the Sheiks of the mofques, and the feveral companies 
 of tradefmen with their ftandards, as in the proceffion of the hangings 
 from the caftle to the mofque; fome of them dancing in the fame man- 
 ner. The fiftiermen carrying fifti like ferpents, probably eels, tied to the 
 ends of long fifhing-rods. 
 
 j 58. Four Choufes of the divan. 
 
 159. Sixteen janizaries in their high drefs. 
 
 160. The Sheik call'd Caffani. 
 
 161. The great ftandard, carried by the proper officer on a camel. 
 
 162. Five camels; three of them having trappings of very fine em- 
 broidery. 
 
 163. The covering, as in the other proceffion. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 26 l 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 The Rout of the Caravan from Cairo to Mecca, from the 
 account of one who had been there fourteen times. 
 
 Days of return. 
 
 Month Zeffer. 19 
 
 17 
 
 Month Zeffer. 
 
 Month Mahorem 20 
 
 Where the cara- } 
 vans of Cairo ( 
 and Damaf- f 
 cus meet. j 
 
 Places. 
 
 Byrke 
 
 Der el Hamera 
 Adjeroute cattle 
 
 Newhateer 
 WahadTe 
 Newhail 
 
 Allahaih 
 
 Soot 
 Achaba 
 
 Darha el Hamar, 
 
 SharafFa 
 
 Mugair fliaip 
 
 Ain-el-Kafab 
 
 Muellah 
 
 Selma 
 
 Aziiem 
 
 Ufatbel 
 
 Wefti 
 
 Akrah 
 
 Hanech 
 
 Howra 
 
 Nubt 
 
 Houdera 
 
 Yemboh caftle 
 
 Bedder, a town 
 
 Diftances by 
 Deraies, each of 
 four minutes. 
 
 Ma 
 
 90 
 
 200 
 
 210 
 
 160 
 230 
 230 
 
 230 
 
 240 
 100 
 160 
 220 
 230 
 230 
 
 2IO 
 l8o 
 220 
 23O 
 l80 
 24O 
 l80 
 220 
 24O 
 220 
 2IO 
 
 300 
 
 Kaah 
 
 250 
 
 Arabugh 
 
 220 
 
 Kudeid 
 
 220 
 
 Azafan 
 
 220 
 
 Wahad-elFaitmah 
 
 210 
 
 Maccah or Mecca 
 
 100 
 
 Arrafac 
 
 100 
 
 Munna 
 
 40 
 
 Mecca 
 
 60 
 
 Days they 
 ftay. 
 
 four 
 
 one day 
 
 one day 
 
 two days. 
 
 two days. 
 
 3 day 
 
 three days 
 two days 
 
 three days 
 
 from twelve 
 to fourteen 
 days. 
 
 From Mecca to Bedder in fix days, as they came ; From whence they 
 Gedeedah 
 Shuhada 
 
 Medina, a town. 
 Biar alii 
 Shuhada 
 Gedeida 
 Dahena 
 Yembo 
 
 Water. 
 
 lake 
 none 
 
 bad water 
 
 no water 
 none 
 water that fwells 
 
 the body, 
 water only fit 
 
 for beafts 
 none 
 
 much and good 
 
 bad 
 
 none 
 
 rivulet 
 
 rivulet 
 
 much and good 
 
 much and good 
 
 bad 
 
 good 
 
 jood 
 
 bad 
 
 none 
 
 purging water 
 much and good 
 bad 
 rivulet 
 
 rivulet 
 
 none 
 
 much and good 
 much and good 
 much and good 
 much and good 
 
 regularly depart 
 on 
 
 go to Medina. 
 
 Days of departure. 
 
 three days. 
 
 two days. 
 
 yy 
 
 From this placed 
 they go on to | 
 Cairo, as they I 
 came, and com- I 
 monly make * 
 the fame ftay, I 
 as may be fecn I 
 in the firft co-J 
 lumn above. 
 
 Month Shuvat 
 
 2 7 
 2S 
 
 3° 
 
 Month Adir. 
 
 i EC 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 6 
 9 
 
 2 3 
 24 
 
 26 
 29 
 
 Month Zilchage. 
 
 >7 
 
 30 r . 
 
 7" 1 Month Mahorem 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 '3 
 
 CHAP. 
 
266 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 An Account of the Bey of T u n i s ; his Court and Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 HAVING met with this relation concerning the old Bey of Tunis, 
 from one who had lived for fome years in his court, I thought it 
 might not be unacceptable to the reader, as it will give an infight 
 into the cuftoms of the eaft in general, and of that part in particular. 
 
 The name of the Bey, in one thoufand feven hundred and thirty- three, was 
 Hafain Ben Ali; he was between feventy and eighty years old, and had been 
 twenty-eight years Bey ; his father was a Greek renegado ; he himfelf was a 
 foldier, became rich, and was made Bey, as ufual, by the foldiers, who chufe 
 one that will promife to give them the moft pay ; and if, at the end of the 
 month or at any time after, he cannot pay it, he is furely depofed. The 
 foldiers are renegadoes, and Turks of the Levant, and they had a notion 
 that the Bey muft be the fon of a renegado, married to a Barbarefco woman ; 
 which is probably falfe, all depending on the will of the foldiers. The 
 title they give him is Iafede Bee. This Bey rofe two hours before day, and 
 immediately eat a Shourba, that is, a rice foup, made of meat ; after that 
 he drank coffee, then a fhirbet of cloves and cinnamon, or fome other hot 
 thing. He then went to the mofque, return'd to his apartment, and per- 
 form'd his devotions on his beads ; when it was day, he always went to the 
 court of juftice, without the gallery before his two apartments. In the 
 middle of the gallery there is a fountain of water, and pillars round it ; 
 the middle room is the chamber of audience, where he flays moft part of 
 the day; it is furnifhed with looking-glaffes and Englilh clocks. Within 
 the room of audience, is the fmall room in which he flceps. He ftays in 
 the court of juftice till half an hour after ten, for here he is obliged to be 
 every day, to do juftice ; any one, that comes for juftice, cries out Sharallah 
 Iafede, that is, Juftice, fire; repeating it till he anfwers, and afks him 
 what he would have. Before eleven he goes to the audience chamber, and at 
 eleven dines at a long table, or board, about three inches above the ground, 
 cover'd with carpets, and bread is laid all along the table ; he fits at the head 
 of it and wafhes. They fet a large difh before him, on which are fmall 
 plates of every fort of difh that is on the table ; the great dimes being placed 
 along the table. The grandees fit near him. When they have eaten, they 
 rife, and others fit down, and the poor take away, in wooden plates, what 
 is left. The food is, firft mutton (of which they kill twelve every day) 
 dreffed in three manners, either with a rice Pilaw, or with oranges and 
 eggs, or with onions and butter. The women fend three great plates of 
 Cufcowfow, which they eat with the broth, and they have alfo either fifh 
 or fowls boil'd, with lemon or orange fauce. The Bey drinks camels milk, 
 the others go after they have dined, to drink at the fountain. The dinner 
 is ferved in the Sopha, which is to the right of the apartment, by the au- 
 dience room, where they have cifterns of water to wafh After dinner is 
 over, he goes to the audience room with the grandees. He never fmoaks, 
 nor does any one in the palace. He ftays in this room till the hour of 
 
 prayer, 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 prayer, about three or four of the clock, when the Imams come, and all 
 the court go to the mofque. After prayers, the Imams and grandees flay 
 in the audience room, fitting and difcourfing. An hour before fun-fet, he 
 eats as before, and then retires to a room, where all his officers and great 
 people come and drink coffee, and in the fummer, fhirbets. At night lie 
 generally goes to the Seraglio of women, and ftays from one to four hours 
 after fun-fet ; from thence he goes to the bagnio, and thence to bed. If 
 he does not go to the women, he goes to fleep in his own chamber, and 
 fometimes gets up in the night and goes to the Harem, and afterwards to 
 the bagnio, and then to bed again, if it is not day. He has four wives, 
 one of which only has had children. He has likewife four fons, the eldeft 
 is Bey di Turki (General di Turki) call'd Muftapha Bey ; the youngeft was 
 but twelve years old, and was married. He was efteem'd a very wife man, 
 and a good politician. 
 
 The palace of the Bey is four miles from Tunis, and is call'd the Bardo: 
 They fay the palace itfelf and the buildings that belong to it, among 
 which the bagnios where the flaves live are comprehended, are altogether 
 a league round. He goes twice a year to Tunis (before he makes a pro- 
 grefs over his dominions to receive his tribute) when he goes into the Cadi's 
 houle, takes coffee, makes a circuit in the city, and returns to the Bardo. 
 One of the feafons he choofes for going over his territories, is the month 
 of January, the other .was thought to be that of July. His progrefs takes 
 up about fifty days. 
 
 The feveral officers of the Bey take precedence in the following order. 
 
 His prime minifter, call'd II Cafa Natale: He is alfo treafurer and pay- 
 mafter: He lives always at the Bardo in his own houfe. 
 
 II Sapata, or the keeper of the feal. 
 
 The Cadi in Tunis, who adminifters juftice when the Bey is abroad in 
 his circuits ; he is obliged to lie every night at the Bardo, in his own 
 houfe, during the abfence of the Bey. 
 
 The officer of the cuftom-houfe. 
 
 II Guardian Bafhaw di Bagni, that is of the college of the flaves, which 
 is built like a cane or caravanfera, in which the flaves live, and fome have 
 {hops in them. There are four of thefe buildings, in which the flaves are 
 lock'd up every night ; the Bey has in all two thoufand flaves. They 
 may be ranfomed for about five hundred and thirty piaftres each. 
 
 Li Leukini ; who are intendants of the buildings ; there are feveral of 
 them. 
 
 Li Guardiani de Schiavi, who go with the flaves to guard them at 
 work. 
 
 The Servants of the Bey's houfe are almoft all Chriftian flaves. They 
 are, 
 
 II Bas Cafaka, a Chriftian Have over the other Chriftian flaves in the 
 Bey's fervice. 
 
 Two officers ; one call'd II Bafhaw Guarda Robe, who ferves the Bey at 
 home; another call'd Bafhaw Guarda Robe delcampo, who ferves when 
 he goes abroad. 
 
 Twelve others call'd by the fame name of Guarda Robe. 
 
 Caffejee ; who has the care of ferving the coffee. 
 
 Guarda Fanali ; who takes care of the lights. 
 
 Guarda 
 
 3 
 
268 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 Guarda del Aqua, for the water. 
 
 Guarda Papouchi, who has the care of the Papouches of all that come 
 to court, to carry them to perfons of diftinftion who dine there. 
 
 Guarda Banda, who has the care of putting vafes of water in all proper 
 places. 
 
 Guarda Hamam, who attends at the bagnios for bathins:. 
 
 ' DO 
 
 The gardiners. 
 
 Guardaletti; there are two fo called, who have the care of every thing 
 belonging to the bed chamber. 
 
 Muchachi del Camera, boys of the Bey's chamber; there are of them 
 from twelve to eighteen; two of them always in waiting in fight of the 
 Bey for two hours, who give the Bey's orders to the Bas Cafaka. 
 
 All thefe are Chriftians, and have a chapel under the Bey's apartment, 
 where the Capuchins fay mafs on fundays and holidays. 
 
 Cooks; part of whom are Chriftians and part Turks. 
 
 Grooms; who are Chriftians. 
 
 Guardi Piki, who carry each a pike before the Bey when he goes abroad. 
 
 After the Bey goes the Guarda Letto, with water both cold and warm, 
 one for drinking, the other for another ufe; and always two led horfes 
 are ready near him. 
 
 They have a man of war of feventy-four guns prefented by the Grand 
 Signor, and one of forty guns, and a little veifel call'd a Sambikino, which 
 has fourteen fmall guns. The cities are govern'd by Agas and Cadis; 
 an Aga being fent to every village. The Agas and Cadis are often taken 
 from among the rich people, to put them out of the way, and afterwards 
 on a pretence of mal-adminiftration, they feize on all they have. He 
 had not above three thouiand foldiers for his ftanding army, who are 
 Turks and renegades. The general is call'd Aga del Campo ; the foldiers 
 are all horfe, and are call'd Spahi. It is faid, that the Bey ought to pay 
 a tribute to Algiers, which he had refufed. He has to the eaft of Tunis 
 the ports of Mahomet, only a gulf, Suta, Jerbe: To the weft, Farini, Ca- 
 ponegro, Buferti, and Bona. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 The Patent of Mahomet, which he granted to the Monks 
 of Mount Sinai ; and to Chriftians in general. 
 
 AS God is great and governeth, from whom all the Prophets are 
 come, for there remaineth no record of injuftice againft God; 
 through the gifts that are given unto men, Mahomet the fon of Abdal- 
 lah, the apoftle of God, and careful guardian of the whole world; 
 has wrote the prefent inftrument to all thofe that are his national people, 
 and of his own religion, as a fecure and pofitive promife to be accom- 
 plifh'd to the Chriftian nation, and relations of the Nazareen, whofoever 
 they may be, whether they be the noble or the vulgar, the honoura- 
 ble or otherwife, faying thus. 
 
 I. Who- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 I. Whofoever of my nation fliall prefume to break my promife and 
 oath, which is contain' d in this prefent agreement, deftroys the promiie 
 of God, acis contrary to the oath, and will be a refifter of the faith, 
 (which God forbid) for he becometh worthy of the curfe, whether he be 
 the King himfelf, or a poor man, or what perfon foever he may be. 
 
 II. That whenever any one of the monks in his travels fliall hap- 
 pen to fettle upon any mountain, hill, village, or other habitable place, 
 on the fea, or in deferts, or in any convent, church, or houfe of prayer, 
 I fliall be in the midft of them, as the preferver and protedtor of them, 
 their goods and effedts, with my foul, aid and protection, jointly with 
 all my national people ; becaufe they are a part of my own people, and 
 an honour to me. 
 
 III. Moreover, I command all officers not to require any poll-tax of 
 them, or any other tribute, becaufe they fhall not be forced or com- 
 pell'd to any thing of this kind. 
 
 IV. None fhall prefume to change their judges or governors, but 
 they fhall remain in their office, without being depofed. 
 
 V. No one fhall moleft them when they are travelling on the road. 
 
 VI. Whatever churches they are poflefled of, no one is to deprive 
 them of them. 
 
 VII. Whofoever fliall annul any one of thefe my decrees, let him 
 know pofitively, that he annuls the ordinance of God. 
 
 VIII. Moreover, neither their judges, governors, monks, fervants, 
 difciples, or any others depending on them, fhall pay any poll-tax, or be 
 molefted on that account, becaufe I am their protedtor, wherefoever 
 they fhall be, either by land or fea, eaft or weft, north or fouth ; be- 
 caufe both they and all that belong to them are included in this my 
 promiffbry oath and patent. 
 
 IX. And of thofe that live quietly and folitary upon the mountains, 
 they fhall exadt neither poll-tax nor tythes from their incomes, neither 
 fhall any Muffulman partake of what they have ; for they labour only to 
 maintain themfelves. 
 
 X. Whenever the crop of the earth fhall be plentiful in its due time, 
 the inhabitants fliall be obliged out of every bufliel to give them a cer- 
 tain meafure. 
 
 XI. Neither in time of war fhall they take them out of their habi- 
 tations, nor compel them to go to the wars, nor even then fhall they re- 
 quire of them any poll-tax. 
 
 In thefe eleven chapters is to be found whatever relates to the monks, 
 as to the remaining feven chapters, they diredt what relates to every 
 Chriftian. 
 
 XII. Thofe Chriftians who are inhabitants, and with their riches and 
 traffick are able to pay the poll-tax, fhall pay no more than twelve 
 drachms. 
 
 XIII. Excepting this, nothing more fhall be required of them, ac- 
 cording to the exprefs order of God, that fays, Do not moleft thofe that 
 have a veneration for the books that are fent from God, but rather, in a 
 kind manner, give of your good things to them, and converfe with them, 
 and hinder every one from moleft ing them. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 Z z z 
 
 XIV. If 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 XIV. If a Chriftian woman fhall happen to marry a Muffulman, the 
 Muffulman fhall not crofs the inclination of his wife, to keep her from 
 her church and prayers, and the practice of her religion. 
 
 XV. That no peifon hinder them from repairing their churches. 
 
 XVI. Whofoever acts contrary to this my grant, or gives credit to any 
 thing contrary to it, becomes truly an apoftate to God, and to his di- 
 vine Apoftle, becaufe this protection 1 have granted to them, according 
 to this promife. 
 
 XVII. No one fhall bear arms againft them, but, on the contrary, the 
 Muffulmen fhall wage war for them. 
 
 XVIII. And by this I ordain, that none of my nation fhall prefume 
 to do or act contrary to this my promife, until the end of the world. 
 
 Witneffe, 
 
 Ali, the fon of Abou Thaleb. 
 Homar, the fon of Hattavi. 
 Ziphir, the fon of Abuam. 
 Saitt, the fon of Maatt. 
 Thavitt, the fon of Nefls. 
 Muathem, the fon of Kafvi. 
 Amphachin, the fon of Haffan. 
 Azur, the fon of Jaffin. 
 Abombaker, the fon of Ambi Kaphe. 
 Ottman, the fon of Gafas. 
 Ambtelack, the fon of Meffutt. 
 Phazer, the fon of Abbas. 
 Talat, the fon of Amptoulak. 
 Saat, the Son of Abbatt. 
 Kafmer, the fon of Abid. 
 Ambtullach, the fon of Omar. 
 
 This prefent was written by the leader, the fucceffor of Ali the fon 
 of Abou Thaleb; the Prophet marking it with his hand at the 
 mofque of the Prophet (in whom be peace) in the fecond year of 
 the Hegira, the third day of the month Machorem. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Forms of fome Letters and Pafports, according to the Eaftern 
 
 ftyle. 
 
 I. 
 
 A Firman from the Grand Signor to an Englifh Gentleman. 
 
 SULTAN Mahmud the fifth, the Ottoman Emperor, 
 To the ever glorious judges, rulers and governors, the never failing 
 fources of virtue and eloquence, who are between the confines of Germany 
 and our happy and molt high Porte. 
 
 To 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 To the Cadis in the fame road, that your knowledge may increafe. 
 And ye glorious lieutenants and generals of the janizaries, that your va- 
 lo'ur may be exalted. 
 
 When this our imperial command mall arrive at your hands, be it known 
 unto you, that the illuftrious ambaffador of England A. B. (whofe end be 
 ha ppy) has fignified to us by his memorial prefented unto us, that one 
 of the nobles of England A. moved by a delire and intention to travel 
 and to fee divers countries, is for that purpofe departed from England 
 to come into Germany, and that he may afterwards come with fafety to 
 our happy Porte, he has requefted of the faid ambaffador to provide for 
 him, that he may come from the faid confines of Germany to our Impe- 
 rial refidence in fafety, according to his intention, in his lodgings, quar- 
 ters, and on the road ; and that faithful afliftance may be given to his 
 fervants with his baggage, goods and provifions; that he may not on any 
 pretence, meet with any trouble or infult; but that he may be protected 
 and defended. 
 
 For this purpofe he has intreated us to grant our royal command. 
 
 Wherefore, in tenor thereof, that this requeft may be punctually com- 
 plied with, we have caufed our Imperial order and command to iffue 
 forth. At the arrival, therefore, of this our high command, let every thing 
 be done in conformity to the orders we have given. 
 
 And you, who are above named, take care diligently to execute our 
 commands with regard to this noble perfon, to protect and defend him 
 and all his attendance, baggage, goods and provifions, and take you e- 
 fpecial care to put a flop to any trouble or infult he may meet with. 
 
 You will not fail to fulfil the contents of this our noble command, as 
 you will fee and give undoubted credit to this our fign, that we have 
 caufed to be put to it. 
 
 Given at Babaduk on the firft day of the month Zilchige, one thou- 
 fand feven hundred and nineteen. (Which was the firft of April, one 
 thoufand feven hundred and thirty-feven.) 
 
 II. 
 
 The following Firman or Pafport was granted to one who paffed for a 
 
 merchant. 
 
 The command direded to all Judges, Muffelimes, Waiwodes, Sardars, 
 Haratchjees, and other commanders, that are in the road from Conftan- 
 tinople to Adrianople, to Natolia, towards Budrum, Bruffa, and the ifle 
 of the Morea. 
 
 When this our Imperial command comes to you, be it known to you, 
 That the moll: noble among theg randees of the Mefliah, A. B. (whofe end be 
 happy) ambaffador of England, refiding in our fplendid court, has, by his 
 memorial fent to our high throne, reprefented, that a certain Englifh gentle- 
 man, M. N. going on fome affairs from Conftantinople to Adrianople, and 
 thence to a place called Budrum in Natolia, to Brufia, and from that 
 place towards the ifle of the Morea ; and in order that no gatherers of taxes 
 be permitted to moleft him or his two Frank fervants, or any others, on 
 any kind of pretence, in any place where they flop, or in any place where 
 they are going, or on their journey, or wherever they ftay on the road, 
 
 either 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 either going or coming to the aforefaid places ; he has requefted, that we 
 would grant our imperial command to this effed ; concerning which rhe 
 faid ambaffador having fet forth to us his requeft, we have granted this 
 our high command, that nothing may be done againft the facred capitula- 
 tions, that he may meet with no let or hindrance in his journey to the faid 
 places. And we command, that when he arrives, you do conduct your- 
 felves in the abovefaid manner ; and that you regard this our noble order 
 with refpeft and veneration. So far finally, you are to regard and give 
 credit to this our noble fign, which was put to thefe prefents, at the be- 
 ginning of the moon Rebuihahir,. in the year one thoufand one hundred 
 fifty-three. (Which was towards the end of June, one thoufand feven hun- 
 dred forty.) 
 
 In the city of Conftantinople. 
 
 III. 
 
 A letter from the patriarch of Conftantinople, to all under his jurifdiction, 
 recommending to them a clergyman of the church of England, who 
 was travelling in the eaft. 
 
 NEOPHITUS, by the grace of God, archbilhop of Conftantino- 
 ple (or new Rome) and oecumenical patriarch. 
 
 Moft holy Metropolitans, moft reverend archbifhops and bilhops, all you 
 who are fubjecl: to our patriarchal and oecumenical throne, moft dear to 
 God, and our brethren and fellow minifters in the holy ghoft. 
 
 Be it known to you all, that the bearer of thefe prefents, the eloquent 
 father A. B. a native of the Britifh jurifdidlion, having an .inclination and 
 intention to vifit divers cities and diocefes, both to the eaft and in Europe, 
 curioufly to view and infpeft them; to which purpofe he has obtain'd a 
 venerable order from the powerful Emperor, containing a grant of free 
 paflage in his intended travels ; and he has requefted from us, in a civil 
 manner, our patriarchal letter of recommendation to your reverend lord- 
 fhips, that is, all thofe that are fubjeft to our oecumenical throne, for his 
 intended journey ; that wherefoever he arrives, or in whofe diocefe fo- 
 ever he travels, he may meet with a worthy reception from you, with the 
 honour and friendfhip that are due to his eloquence ; and for this reafon 
 we have condefcended to comply with his commendable and friendly de- 
 fire, knowing him to be an honourable and well-deferving gentleman. 
 Therefore, by the prefent grant, we do require and exhort you, and every 
 one of you in particular, to whom thefe our patriarchal letters lhall be 
 prefented, moft holy Metropolitans, moft reverend archbifhops and bifbops, 
 that is, thofe in whofe diocefe the above-named eloquent father A. B. 
 in his travels fhall arrive, to receive him in a kind and friendly manner, 
 according to his merits and ftation, that he may be fatisfied with your kind 
 reception. This you are required to do, and not otherwife. May the 
 grace of God, and the prayers and bleifings of our mediocrity, be with 
 you all. 
 
 June the firft, 1 740. 
 
 IV. Several 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Several Arabic letters written by the great men in Egypt, recommending 
 a traveller to the governors under them. 
 
 A letter to an Arab Sheik, to conduct him to the convents of St. Paul and 
 St. Anthony in the defert. 
 
 What we make known to Sheik Omar of Scione. 
 
 A S foon as you know that one from the Frank conful comes to you, 
 who would go to the monaftery of Arabia, immediately, as foon as he is 
 arrived, call the fons of the Arabs, the fons of Vachel, and confign him 
 to them, that they may condudt him to the monaftery ; and when he is re- 
 turn'd, take care of him, and do every thing for him that is neceflary. 
 
 Dated the 20 th of A B R A H I M Bey MlRLUE 
 
 Sab -"5°- Tefterdar. 
 A letter to the Sheik of Saccara, in order to fee the pyramids. 
 To Ahmed Sheik of Saccara. 
 
 May the great God proteft you. 
 
 AFTER faluting you. There comes one of the nation of the Franks 
 to the pyramids, having a defire to fee them. And I recommend him unto 
 you, that no one may moleft him, or give him any fort of trouble. Take 
 all poffible care of him, becaufe he is under our protection. I again re- 
 commend him to you ; and may the great God be your defence. 
 
 Ali Kekiah. 
 Hazaban Gelfi. 
 
 To Sheik Haffan of Bouche. 
 
 May the great God have you under his protection, 
 AFTER faluting you, know that a Frank of the part of the conful 
 comes to you, who would go and fee the monaftery of Arabia, and when 
 he is return'd, he would go to Faiume ; fo when he is return'd from the 
 monaftery, fend fome people with him to accompany him to Faiume. And 
 take all the care you can of him, and endeavour to prevent every thing, 
 with all care, that may give him any trouble. 
 
 Dated on the 18* of the A B R A K I M Bey B E L F IE 
 
 month Saban 1 150. J „ „ , 
 
 1 etterdar. 
 
 Guide of the great fupport of the nobles ; the chief Omar Aga, 
 governor of the country of Faiume. 
 
 May the great God, &c. 
 
 AFTER faluting you much, and greeting you with all affection ; be 
 it known unto you, that one of the family of the conful of the Franks 
 Vol. I. A a a a in 
 
374 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 in Cairo, has fome bulinefs at Faiume. As foon therefore as he arrives, 
 take care of him, and fuffer no one to moleft him, until he returns to 
 Cairo. Do this by all means, and with the utmoft care, that he may re- 
 turn fatisfied. May the great God have you always in his keeping. 
 
 Dated the 1 6 th of TT _ 
 
 Shaban, 1150. Hassan Bey Merlue, 
 
 To Muftapha Bey, governor of Girge. 
 
 W E write, after faluting you, that you receive the perfon who brings 
 this letter, who is going into Said, to fee the curious places there. I pray 
 you to take care of him; and I defire you again to do me this pleafure 
 to take great care of him, and protect him againft any one that would do 
 him harm. I defire you not to fail to do him this fervice, for the love you 
 bear to us. 
 
 O s m a n Bey, Senlatar ; 
 at this time Emir Hadge. 
 
 To Emir Mahomet Kamali. 
 
 What I order. 
 
 THE perfon that brings this letter is an Englishman, going into up- 
 per Egypt, to fee whatever is curious there ; fo when he delivers this letter, 
 take care to protect him from all harm ; and I command you again to take 
 care of him. I defire you not to fail of it, for the love you bear to us. 
 
 Osman Bey Merlue, 
 at this time Emir Hadge. 
 
 V. 
 
 The letter of the Copti patriarch of Alexandria, recommending to the 
 monks of the deferts of St. Macarius, and of the convents of St. Anthony 
 and St. Paul. 
 
 In the name of the merciful God, the peace of God be with you. The 
 reafon of this benediction to the bleffed fons, the faithful priefts, and the 
 reverend deacons, the abftemious monks, and religious, in the holy fociety 
 of the four northern monasteries. 
 
 To thofe of the fpiritual congregation of the monasteries of our father, 
 the great St. Anthony, and of St. Paul. 
 
 May God Almighty blefs you with his fpiritual benedictions, that de- 
 fcended on his prophets, apoftles, and martyrs, and the workers of his will 
 and commandments in all ages, by the interceffion of our Lady the holy 
 Mary, always a virgin, and of all the holy martyrs and confeffors, Amen. 
 We give you to underftand (firlt repeating that God may blefs you, and 
 give his fpiritual falvation) that the reafon we fay of this our letter to you 
 is, that one of the Franks, that is A. B. is going to you. Have the ut- 
 moft regard for him, and receive him with the greateft civility. And may 
 the peace of our Lord defcend on you ; for ever glory be to God. 
 
 Dated the 2Q' h of Afur, 1 154. 
 
 VI. A te- 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 VI. 
 
 A teftimonium from the convent of Jerufalem, of having vifited all the 
 
 holy places. 
 
 F R A T E R Angelicus de Gazolo, ordinis Minorum religiofa; obfer- 
 vantia; fanfti patris noftri Francifci, leftor theologian, alms obfervantium 
 provincial Bononise pater, et congregationis de Propaganda Fide refponfa- 
 lis, miffionum Egypti et Cypri praefedus, in partibus orientis miflionarius 
 et commiffarius, totius terra C&n&x cuftos et montis Sion, nec non fan- 
 dthTimi fepulchri domini noftri Jefu Chrifti guardianus et fervus. 
 
 Univerfas et fmgulis Chrifti fidelibus has praefentes litteras infpedturis, 
 ledturis, et audituris, falutem in domino fempiternam. 
 
 Noveritis perilluftrem dominum dominum A.B. natione Anglum, devo- 
 tionis caufa, fufcepta peregrinatione ad fanda Pataftina; et Judaea loca, pra- 
 fentia et fanctiffima converfatione falvatoris ac Domini noftri Jefu Chrifti 
 condecorata, anno a nativitate ejufdem domini noftri Jefu Chrifti millefimo 
 feptingentifimo trigefimo odtavo, die vero trigefima menfis Martii, Jerofoly- 
 mam appuliffe ; inde fubfequentibus diebus praecipua loca, feu fanduaria in 
 quibus operata funt noftra redemptionis myfteria, utpote Calvarium et fepul- 
 chrum beata; Maria? virginis, in valle Jehofaphat, qua? in monte Sion et in 
 monte Oliveti, casteraque, five intra five extra urbis Jerufalem mcenia fita, 
 et qua in Bethlehem, ubi falvator nafci dignatus eft, et circa Bethlehem, et 
 in via Bethlehemitica, quae in montana Judoese, ubi beata virgo falutavit 
 Elizabeth, ortumque habuit magnus propheta et pracurfor Domini ; item 
 et qua in Nazareth ac univerfa continentur Galilaea, et reliqua alia loca 
 ejufdem Domini noftri Jefu Chrifti geftis memorabilia, ac in via Samarias 
 pie et devote vifitafle, in quorum omnium et lingulorum fidem, has 
 noftras teftimoniales dedimus propria manu fubfcriptas ac figillo officii 
 noftri munitas. Jerofolymis, in noftro conventu S. Salvatoris, die 28 Aprilis 
 173B. 
 
 Frater Angelicus de Gazolo, guar- 
 dianus facrs ' montis Sion et 
 
 SIGILLVM GVARDIANI ruftrr; tnfi'iiQ terr-p fanfl-p 
 
 SACRI CONVENTUS CUltOS t0tlUS tmX lanttS - 
 
 MONTIS SION. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 Greek Infcriptions found in Egypt. 
 
 WHEN I came to revife thefe infcriptions, I found them fo im- 
 perfed, that I fhould not have ventured to publifh them, if I 
 had not promifed it in the courfe of this work; fo I give them as I co- 
 pied them out, and leave it to thofe to explain them, who have fufBcient 
 leifure. 
 
 I. The 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 i. 
 
 The firfl: was found on a fragment of a granite pillar fet upright in 
 the old port at Alexandria, for fixing their cables. 
 
 Auletes the laft King of Egypt, and father of Cleopatra, Teems to be 
 mention'd in it ; he was drove out of the kingdom by the Alexandrians, 
 but was afterwards reftored. 
 
 TIBKAAYAIONXIIliaNA 
 
 toaiiantaapiCton 
 . . . paocto . . . taton 
 
 ATAnTAOIAOPtuMAIA. 
 II. 
 
 The fecond infcription is on a white marble ftone, that feems to have 
 ferved for a bafe, and is now hewn into a trough ; it is one foot eleven 
 inches long, one foot two inches broad, and eight inches deep. One 
 fide of it is not work'd, fo that probably it was the bafe of a pilafter, 
 pillar or ftatue, that was fet clofe to a wall. 
 
 This infcription feems to have been an extraordinary compliment to the 
 Emperor Severus. 
 
 IA . . . . jvIVAM H'lIOinn OCAIANOMA6AION 
 
 HKT . ONC600TH . M . ANT0NINON£TTYKHeYC6BHC£BACTON 
 
 TONC ffl THPATHCOAHCOIKOYM6NHC 
 
 M . ATPHAIOCMeA6KAI4iCKPHMATIZ» 
 
 III. 
 
 The third infcription is on the portico of the temple of Gaua-Kiebir 
 in Upper Egypt. 
 
 [BAiiAErjsnTOAEMI [AlO2]nATP~0Ef2NEni<J>AN£lNK| [ai]E YXAH2TJ1N 
 
 [KAlBAqiAISSAKAI.... E£22AAEA<t>0EOIOIA| MHTOPE 2 
 
 /ONANTAIfl|TOI^2KAI2EPE2ATPH|OIANTJ2NIN 
 -J'^EP.STOITIIAAETOT .... E . TAB.TO f.NI 
 
 The word Anta?o in this infcription might be a preemption that this 
 was Antsopolis, if the fituation and diftances of the place mentioned in 
 the Itinerary, and other authors, did agree ; but as it is fpoken of as a city 
 at a diftance from the river, it could not be here ; fo that poffibly that 
 word may relate to Antaus himfelf, who might be mention'd in this in- 
 fcription, which agrees beft with the orthography. The word EYXAH2- 
 TflN was probably defign'd for ETXAPI2TON. 
 
 It is poihble there might have been an antient infcription here to the 
 honour of Ptolemy and his family, to which this latter part might be 
 added in compliment to the Roman Emperor. The middle part of this 
 infcription between the lines was fallen down on the ground. 
 
 4 
 
 The 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 2 
 
 IV. 
 
 The fourth infcription is on a ftone that was probably over a portico 
 or door of a temple at Akmim the antient Panopolis; it is very imperfed, 
 but appears to be fo late as the time of Trajan. 
 
 [ oicekaicaki \noicsb]ACT [o h] £ P M A N I K O [h a] 
 
 KAITOmANTOC nANIOCfab IMEFIOabl 
 
 TIBEPIOCKAAT AIOCTIBEPIOTK [aataiot] b NOCTIOCKOTPINA AnOAI fx] 
 
 ....Tab NK6XEIAIAPXHK0T a b N iICTPI a I b AOCICAinANOCOC a b • N 
 
 CTIIC....Tfc]..:i 
 
 CTN6TeAeCOIIAC 
 
 f~lB ATTOKPATOPOSKAICAPOCNePOTTPAIANOTCGBACTOTrePMANIKOT 
 
 The name of Pan, which feems to be mention'd in this infcription, and 
 the hieroglyphics I have defcribed on this ftone, would make one imagine 
 that this temple might be dedicated to the fun, which polTibly in fome 
 parts might be worfhipped under the name of Pan. 
 
 V. 
 
 The fifth infcription was on the temple at Cous, the old little Apoli- 
 nopolis ; the two laft words of the third line AP£1 HBAI as I conclude 
 them to be, though the letters are imperfed, feem to be fpoken of the 
 the children of Ptolemy ; and to mean, The youths, the heroes. 
 
 BA2TAISSAKAEOI1 AT PA KAIBASIAETS 
 nTOAEMAIOSGEOlMErAAOIcDIAOMHTEPES 
 
 [ETXEBEIE] D ~ v K A I TA T E K N A [APXiHBAI] 
 
 ©EfilMEriSTaiKAITOISSTNNAIOISeEOIS 
 
 f Wherever in this infcription a and b are feen, they Hand for thefe letters agb'J. 
 
 Bbbb 
 
 VI. The 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 VI. 
 
 The fixth infcription is on a wall on the outfide of the temple of Elephantine. 
 I was fo hurried in copying it, that, though I did it with the utmoft exaflnefs I could, 
 yet it will be feen that it is very imperfect, and feveral parts of it were defaced ; 
 however, I have given it as I copied it. It is to be doubted if the whole may not 
 be two infcriptions. The infcription feems to be of the time of Diocletian, whofe 
 name often occurs in it; and fome expreffions give grounds to conclude that it 
 related to fome bounds of the people of Elephantine. 
 
 The 
 
 . 5 < 
 
 »r" T< 
 
 CJ 
 
 O 
 
 . a 
 
 . ID 
 
 ~ o 
 x x 
 
 y< 
 
 ox 
 
 : < O 
 :-jEZ 
 : B X H 
 
 :>-O u - 
 
 ■ H 
 
 : < 
 . z zS 
 
 IT? uj h* 
 
 : CJ o> j-i < 8 ^ 
 
 v - - h cj&o 
 
 Z 
 
 < 01 
 
 1= z «° 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 ^ Z 
 
 «P^* 
 S <E 
 
 ll|ll§<PlgPlll 
 
 yj P £ cj 3 S x c <g a. 
 
 - .s p y 
 o < ac H )_ r 
 
 5^z!±!o£ 
 
 SqIZHi 
 
 ^ -= U) 
 
 ^ 1 Z h ^ 
 
 z tu o y o 5 
 
 i Z £ < 'Cu W n ft« 
 
 ") ^ ^ r-, y 
 
 P .2 G 
 H O < = 
 
 2<h*ZZ3 
 O 8 ZffOOZ 
 
 UOtD<~<j 
 
 • 7 1 
 
 
 01 
 
 >-«3<S.PZ 
 
 « !^ " U y O , 
 
 ShujoiScSoXC a 8 z 
 
 r- y £3 S a 
 
 ^oi^z^zs^oCogz 
 
 OltfHZ 
 
 £ H a ^ < 
 
 z F, u f 
 
 ofigSz 
 
 OO" i U ^ • ID I ^ ^ < ^ rn 2 h O < 
 
 O) p> I- o 
 
 ^ a; b s- 2 ^ 
 O S P < a 
 
 tJJ I & o. ® 
 
 uj I o. a, © 
 
 oj z ^ c cu 
 
 < < 
 
 p 
 
 z 
 
 :5<lgSZz<|^H 
 
 o 
 
 x 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 z 
 
 05 
 
 W 
 
 X 
 
 < 
 < 
 
 CJ 
 
 uo 
 
 OH 
 ^O 
 
 c a, 
 
 ^ Z 3 
 
 co<oU 
 
 O CJ < 03 g 
 
 - u o. 1 5 o- 
 
 -ogl - a. 
 1 o ^ CJ < < 
 
 szP^g^- 
 
 -hS u O°Sci3 
 
 H sO^ :gu 
 
 . u o 
 • « >- 
 
 o 
 z 
 
 03 
 
 < 
 < 
 
 >- 
 o 
 
 O z 
 « w 
 
 cjz^, 
 
 O < s- 
 SHq 
 ZO/ 
 
 c * < 
 
 03 03 S 
 03 <Z 
 
 r->-z 
 
 ^ 3 <; 
 
 ca 
 
 © 
 Z 
 
 03 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 H 
 CJ 
 
 H 
 
 Z 
 S 
 
 o^ 
 
 < 
 
 2 
 o 
 S 
 
 X 
 
 s 
 
 cj 
 ocj 
 
 £^ 
 <s 
 
 03 >< 
 
 n = ZO 
 
 <iLor 
 
 ~<pzr 
 
 ?-O^032 
 
 ^ " O co « 
 
 Z r < ?H,-^ -^CJ 
 
 3 U >, H 03 ■ o. >; 
 hl<i >-i • < oj 
 
 u a ^ 
 
 X t" D. 
 <C CQ 
 
 I < >, 
 X o 
 
 u 
 
 -Pc 
 
 - H - 
 
 E<o 
 
 °- c •> 
 
 w z ?"> u ? 
 
 03 03 H o 
 ■^Z^C 
 
 rt- cz o- 
 
 <03 
 
 cj<; :xs 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 VII. 
 
 The feventh is a fragment of an infcription, from Father Sicard, copied 
 at Antinoopolis, if I miftake not from the pedeftal of one of the large pil- 
 lars there. 
 
 . . ATA0HITTXHI 
 ATTOKPATOPIKAI2API 
 
 MAPKniATPHAIQI 
 2EOTHPOIAAESANAPQI 
 
 ET2EBEIETTTXEI 
 
 . . .TINOEflNNEflNEAAHNQN 
 
 IIPTTANEONT02 
 APXHAIOT . . . 
 KAIALTOAAONIOY . . . 
 
 EniTflNETEMMATflXPHMA 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 The Bifhopricks of Egypt, and other Countries under the 
 Patriarch of Alexandria: From the Patriarch's Map. 
 
 0PONO2 AAEHANAPINOS. 
 
 A I. A A&xvfyux MnrgoTtoM T?jf a. 
 Aiyojfjs. 
 1. An^oOTAif. 
 
 3 . KAfOTaTf i;. f 
 
 4. KomSjif. ' 
 
 j. 'Ef|U87roAi; ft«fot. 
 
 6. AaTOToAff. 1 
 
 7. Mafstsnj. * 
 
 f This he makes Suez, and though at that 
 diftance, in the diocefe of Alexandria. 
 
 a This may be Gynaxopolis, which I place at 
 Mahalea Leben. 
 
 b This place he diftinguiflies by the name of 
 Little Hermopolis, to diftinguifh it from the city 
 of this name in Upper Egypt ; it is the fame 
 with that of Strabo, which I fuppofe to be at 
 Deirout. 
 
 c He puts Latopolis a little above Rofetto; no 
 fuch place is mention'd in thefe parts by antient 
 authors. 
 
 8. M«/))Aaoc. J 
 p. Navx{>omi. ** 
 
 10. Nmkoj. 
 
 I I . NiT^iCM, 
 
 1 1. v Ovx<pic. 
 
 1 3 . Qxtouio;. ' 
 
 14. Sxi'c.f 
 1 J. 2x&5w£. 
 
 * This is Meiriut in the Arabic lauguagc. 
 
 * This place he puts near Caopus; though 
 Strabo mentions it as near Momemphis, which 
 he feems to places about the Nile in this part, 
 rtom which they went to the nitre pits. 
 
 ** This feems to have been on the eall, and 
 he puts Deirut on the weft. 
 
 = This place he puts north of Terranc, and 
 without any Arabic name, the fituation of it pro- 
 bably not being known. 
 
 f This place he calls Salhajar. 
 
 16. Txvx. 
 
280 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 16. 
 
 B 17- 
 
 18. 
 
 i9- 
 20. 
 it. 
 
 22. 
 
 24. 
 ij. 
 16, 
 
 27. 
 
 r 28. 
 
 2_ 9 . 
 
 3°- 
 
 3 1 - 
 32. 
 
 33- 
 34- 
 3J- 
 36. 
 
 V- 
 38. 
 
 39- 
 40. 
 A 41. 
 
 42. 
 43. 
 44- 
 Ah 
 46. 
 
 47- 
 48. 
 
 49- 
 
 E 50. 
 
 5i- 
 J 1 - 
 J3- 
 J4- 
 55- 
 5* 
 57. 
 
 Taua. 
 
 Ka&iirof fopfMroAi; t^j ^ 'A(- 
 
 yurfja. 
 BaVifi£. 
 Bbtoc. 
 
 Kw5» ?roAi(. 
 AfooiroAic ' 
 'EAsa^fa. 
 
 n>)A8'o-(0V MlJTfOTToAlJ T))S « Au- 
 
 'Ap«c, 
 
 "Eifxxirof. 
 
 'OrpOUUVtl. 
 
 PiVMafafCt. 
 SeAI). 
 
 2%o». 
 Taw?. 
 
 AsonozroAi; MjjIfOjroJKff t!j£ ^ - 
 
 At)ysr«f(v«w. 
 ' Avjijotsgov. 
 
 Ba£uA(i)y. 
 
 'HAiaVoAif. 
 
 Sxrjvi) Mayfly, 
 ©tou. 
 
 'Aiyurfja, )? tJ{ AgxxMa;. 
 Affofi)o7roXiJ. 
 
 'Afiaivart n Kf owfeiAtoy 7roA(f. 
 Kirov OTA'f. 
 
 Ns(Aa7roA<c. 
 niV°AAoj. 
 
 58. Qx^ta^i;. 
 
 59. QtoSooiouui. 
 
 {■ 60. Av7««stoAi{ MjitjottoAic T»)f ct ©*- 
 
 <Jl. Av]lW£l«. 
 
 62. 'AffoAAwvof 7T0A(f )] XXTU, 
 
 63. KaV;f. 
 
 64. 'EffiaVoAif. 
 
 6(5. AuxBV mAif. 
 67. "Oxuk neyd^n 
 <58. navo? otA<?. 
 Z <5j. Kot7oc M))7f™A(; tjjj ^ ©>]- 
 
 70. AmottoAic pix^x. 
 
 71. 'EfjKavJ/f. 
 
 72. A>)Ta; 7roA(j. 
 
 73. Ma^ftfavBTToA/j. 
 
 74. *Oflfi><. 
 
 7 J. <J><Aa;.; 
 
 76. T*8/f. 
 
 77. T£v7yj/f. 
 
 78. ©15S) 
 79- ©£^£vai7if. 
 
 80. ©|Mf. 
 
 81. T08f«. 
 
 H 8 2. TlTotepxi; Mrflgozo'htc rr& A&drfi 
 
 83. "Arfja^of. 
 
 84. Bxgxvi. 
 
 85. BsgSVIXY). 
 
 87. A«r%. 
 
 88. 'Egufyx. 
 
 90. AlftaviJbf. 
 
 91. 'OAi'Sa. 
 
 92. Ux^xStaxri. 
 
 93. XuQstrtx.. 
 94- ®^X v f a - 
 
 JIJ. 2W£AW£. 
 
 ©96. Aajvis Mfyonoht; rijf /3' Ai- 
 
 97. "Ailityx. 
 
 98. 'Avrticvgyot. 
 
 99. Mx^XglXn- 
 
 r This he places in the north weft part of Sicart s it feems to be Hermopolis of Strabo ; and 
 
 Delta, but is not mention'd by the antients, no it may be queftion'd, if the fea chart is not wrong 
 
 more than the next, which is near it. in placing Berulles where I have put it, 
 
 « This place he puts at Berullos or Borlos of ■ This he places at Suca. 
 
 3 100. HxgXnoWV. 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 100. Uagoinoviov. 
 
 101. ZayiAof. 
 
 102. Zvyigi;. 
 
 I 103. Ka^ijJcJy MjJfozroAij f<£ya?w) 
 
 104. "AfiSr^cc. 
 
 10 j. 'A^tiSbjov. 
 Io6\ A@£cur<riigit. 
 
 107. $uff«>.is fixe&ixfa 
 
 108. KAaurocioy. 
 
 109. Miy/jwrj. 
 
 1 10. TaSsf&f. 
 
 111. 'OuJiJOj. 
 
 112. "Ov]lTX. 
 
 113. A£7TTIf fJEyCtA)]. 
 
 114. "beet. 
 
 11 j. 2a^«7ov. 
 
 116. Tff CTiJoy. 
 
 117. 'Aj^ufictrjoy. 
 
 118. Be^cstov. 
 
 119. EMMOWJ. 
 
 120. ToAmJa. 
 111. SaSSTUtoj. 
 
 112. 'PbctTOJ. 
 
 123. ' / TJi3c7a tiSiXitxvx. 
 
 124. Kx^axjid;. 
 
 125. OWOi (i£A0ty£f. 
 
 126. K^S)). 
 
 127. OumraAri. 
 
 128. "imm. 
 
 129. Tayara. 
 
 130. Xfaynx. 
 
 131. 2T0T«(7S£. 
 
 132. X?m<pr\. 
 
 133. Tvxxri- 
 
 134. Bafex. 
 
 135. Kxiaxgem. 
 1 3 (5. Ka^y*]. 
 
 137. Ax&tx. 
 
 138. N£a7roA<c. 
 
 139. 'Pct/roy/ix. 
 
 140. Tiptxrj. 
 
 141. Ai?«. 
 
 142. 'Omny)). 
 
 143. PaaAnj. 
 
 144. Tiyylg. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Of Egyptian and Arabian Plants. 
 
 I CANNOT find, that what I call the Thebaic palm, the Dome tree 
 of the Thebaic!, has ever been mention'd by any author. The tree is 
 reprefented at K. in the feventy-third plate. It is an exception to the 
 general defcription of palms, as it always fhoots out into two branches, 
 and thofe again into two more, the leaves and fruit growing out at the 
 ends : I brought very fair fpecimens of them. The leaf, of the fan kind, 
 may be feen at G. the ftem of it, in its full fize, at H. a'nd the wood at L 
 The bark refembles that of the common palm, as does alfo the grain of the 
 wood ; the heart of which, like that of the other, feems not fo durable as 
 the outfide, and is perifh'd. In the feventy-fecond plate, at A. is the 
 fruit; at B. C. it is feen of the natural fize; at D. as it appears when that 
 dry, hufky coat is taken off, which the common people eat, and the fhell, 
 which enclofes the kernel E. appears, which is very clofe and hard, fome- 
 thing reiembling the kernel of the large cocoa-nut ; but after it becomes 
 dry, is as hard as horn. It is hollow within, and the common people 
 make (huff-boxes of them, by drilling a hole in the narrow end, as ob- 
 ferved before. But part of the hollow in the middle, F. is fo fmall, that they 
 turn them into large beads, of a fine polifh ; and the Turks ufe them to 
 fay their prayers by. 
 
 C c c c 
 
 The 
 
28a 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 The following plants, in thefe plates, have not been engraved before or 
 at leaft, not in a proper manner. 
 
 In the feventy-fecond and feventy-third plates, 
 i. Palma Thebaica dichotoma, folio flabelliformi, pedunculis fpinofis, 
 fruflu racemofo fparfo feflili, N. D. 
 
 In the feventy- fourth plate. 
 
 1 Abutilon folio fubrotundo, ferrato, caule tomentofo. 
 
 2 Capficum filiquis ere£tis, luteis minus. 
 
 3 Sifirinchium orientale, foliis longiffimis, floribus fimbriatis. 
 
 In the fixty-fifth plate. 
 
 4 Colutea orientalis foliis minoribus, flore luteo, vefica atro rubente, N. D. 
 y Lunaria fruticofa, perennis, incana, Leucoii folio. 
 
 6 Jacobaa iEgyptiaca, coronopi folio, Lippi. 
 
 7 Aftragalus orientalis, candidiffimus, et tomentofus, T. Cor. 
 
 The plants mark'd with * are come up at Chelfea, from the feeds I fent. 
 
 I am obliged to Mr. Miller of Chelfea, for drawing up the catalogue 
 of thefe and the following plants I collected in Egypt, and Arabia Petrsea. 
 
 Plants of Egypt. 
 
 1 Abutilon folio fubrotundo ferrato, caule tomentofo, N.D. 
 
 2 Acacia Indica Farnefiana, Aid. Hort. 2. 
 
 3 Acacia vera, J. B. 4 jp. 
 
 4 Acetofa iEgyptiaca rofeo feminis involucre, folio lacero, Lipp. 
 j Ammi majus, C. B. P. 1 jj>. 
 
 6 Anemone latifolia, flore coccineo, C. B. P. 174. 
 
 7 Angaria Citullus difla, C. B. P. 312. 
 
 * 8 Apocynum fcandens folio cordato, N. D. 
 9 Arundo faccharifera, C. B. P. 18, 
 10 Arundo graminea aculeata, Alp. Exot. 104. 
 
 I I Arundo orientalis altiflima, caule tenuiffimo fiftulofo, Tourn. Cor. 
 1 2 Atriplex Grsca fruticofa humifufa Halimi folio, Tourn. Cor. 
 
 * 1 3 Capficum filiquis eredtis, luteis minus, N. D. 
 14 Carthamus officinarum flore croceo, Tourn. Inft. 
 
 1 j Cafiia fiftula Alexandrina, C.B. P. 403. 
 
 1 6 Colocynthis frudlu rotundo major, C. B. P. 313. 
 
 1 7 Colutea iEgyptiaca annua, flore luteo, N. D. 
 
 1 8 Cyperus radice longa five Cyperus officinarum, C. B. P. itfj. 
 
 1 9 Eruca fativa flore albo, C. B. P. 
 
 20 Fabago Belgarum five peplus Parifienfium, Lugd. 456. 
 
 21 Fcenum Graxum fativum, C. B. P. 348. 
 
 * Ficoides Neapolitana, flore candido, H. L. Kali. 
 21 Gramen daftylon iEgyptiacum, C. B P. 
 
 23 Hordcum hexafticum pulchrum, J. B. 
 
 24 Hyofcyamus luteus major, Alp. Exot. 
 
 2 5 Hypericum orientale Polygoni folio, Tourn. Cor. 
 26 Ifatis orientalis Lepidii folio, Tourn. Cor. 
 
 27, Kali 
 
ON EGYPT. 
 
 27 Kali orientale fruticofum, fedi minoris folio, Tourn. Cor. 
 
 28 Ketmia Indica aculeata, foliis digitatis, Tourn. Inft. 10 1. 
 
 29 Ketmia velicaria Africana, Tourn. Inft. 101. 
 
 30 Ketmia iEgyptiaca femine mofchato, Tourn. Inft. 102. 
 
 3 1 Lathyrus Tingitanus filiquis orobi flore amplo ruberrimo, Mor. Hor. 
 32 Liguftrum iEgyptiacum Elhanna feu amaharendi vel Alhanna Avi- 
 
 cena;, Alp. Egypt. 
 3 3 Limon acris, Ferr. Hefp. 331. 
 
 34 Limonium iEgyptiacum lignofum halimi folio, Lipp. 
 
 3 5 Lotus pentaphyllos filiqua cornuta, Tourn. Inft. 401. 
 
 36 Lotus hKmorrhoidalis humilior & candidior, Tourn. Inft. 403. 
 
 3 7 Melongena fru&u oblongo violaceo, Tourn. Inft. 151. 
 
 38 Melo j^gyptiacus, C. B. P. 311. 
 
 3 9 Morus fruiftu nigro minori, foliis eleganter laciniatis, Tourn. Inft. 
 
 40 Mufa fru&u cucumerino breviori, Plum. Nov. Gen. 24. 
 
 41 Nicotiana major anguftifolia, C. B. P. 170. 
 
 42 Oryza, Lob. Icon. 31. 
 
 43 Palma dafiylifera fru<Su longiori, N. D. 
 
 44 Palma Thebaica dichotoma folio flabelliformi, pedunculis fpinofis 
 
 frucEtu racemofo feftili fparfo, N. D. 
 4j Phafeolus iEgyptiacus nigro femine, C. B. P. 
 4,6 Phafeolus iEgyptius villofus, foliis rotund ioribus, flore purpureo. 
 
 47 Pinus Halepenfis, foliis tenuibus laste viridibus, Hort. Chelf. 
 
 48 Polium Valentinum fruticofum anguftifolium flore albo, Barrel. 
 
 49 Ranunculus Afphodeli radice flore fanguineo, C. B. P. 281. 
 
 50 Refeda vulgaris, C. B. P. 100. 
 
 51 Ricinus vulgaris, C. B. P. 432. 
 
 5 2 Salix folio brevi angufto, N. D. 
 j 3 Sclarea, Tab. Icon. 373. 
 
 54 Senna Italica five foliis obtufis, C. B. P. 397. 
 
 jj Senna Alexandrina five foliis acutis, C. B. P. 397. 
 
 56 Solanum pomiferum, frudlu ftriato duro, Vail. 
 
 57 Tamarifcus folio tenuiore, Park. 1479. 
 
 58 Thymelea tomentofa, fedi minoris foliis, C. B. P. 463. 
 
 59 Veronica aquatica major, folio oblongo, Mor. hift. 
 
 60 Vitex foliis anguftioribus cannabis modo difpofitis, C. B. P. 475. 
 
 61 Xylon arboreum, J. B. 1. 346. 
 
 Plants of Arabia PetrjEa. 
 
 6z An? Apocynum Bithynicum arbores altiffimas fcandens folio fubro- 
 tundo, T. Cor. 
 
 63 Apocynum erectum latifolium incanum Syriacum floribus parvis ob- 
 
 folete purpurcafcentibus, Par. Bat. Beid-el-offar. 
 64. Acacia vera, J. B. 
 
 65 Abfinthium orientale fruticofum incanum amplo folio tenuiffime in- 
 
 cifo, Cor. Inft. 
 
 66 Afparagus aculeatus, C. B. 
 
 6 j Acetofa iEgyptia rofeo feminis involucro, folio lacero, Lippi. 
 
 68 Afterifcus orientalis elatior, flore fulphureo, N. D. 
 
 69 Aftragalus orientalis candidifllmus et tomentofus, Cor. Inft. 
 
 70. Aftra- 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 70 Aftragalus orientalis ramofus frudtu adunco, Cor. Inft. 
 
 7 1 An ? Aftragalus orientalis foliis vicia; incanis caule nudo erefto flori- 
 
 bus luteis, Cor. Inft. 
 yz Beta Cretica lemine aculeato, C. B. 
 
 73 Colutea orientalis foliis minoribus fubrotundis, vefica atro rubente, 
 
 N. D. 
 
 74 Fabago Belgarum five peplus Parifienfium, Lugd. 
 7 j Ficus Sylveftris. 
 
 76 Gramen orientale capitulis Pfylii. 
 
 77 An? Geranium mofchatum abfinthii folio, Cor. Inft. 
 
 7 8 Harmala, Dod. 
 
 79 Hyofcyamus Creticus luteis major, C. B. P. 
 
 80 Hyofcyamus Creticus luteis minor, C. B. P. 
 
 8 1 Jacobam iEgyptia coronopi folio, Lippi. 
 
 8z Lithofpermum Delium arvenfe minus fupinum flore minimo albo, 
 Cor. Inft. 
 
 83 Lunaria fruticofa perennis incana Leucoii folio filiqua oblonga, Cor. 
 
 Inft. 
 
 84 Lychnis orientalis Cariophylli hortenfis folio, Cor. Inft. 
 85- Phalangium ramofum parvo flore albo, N. D. 
 
 86 Populus, nigra C. B. 
 
 87 Phlomis orientalis lutea anguftifolia cymis fulvefcentibus, D. Sherard. 
 
 88 Refeda vulgaris, C. B. 
 
 8 9 Ricinus vulgaris, C. B. 
 
 90 Rubeola orientalis minima flore purpurafcente, Cor. Inft. 
 
 91 An? Rubeola Cretica faxatalis fruticofa Galii folio flore purpuro-vio- 
 
 laceo, Cor. Inft. 
 
 91 Symphytum orientale oles folio argenteo flore flavefcente, Cor. Inft. 
 
 93 An? Symphytum orientale echii folio minori flore nunc albo nunc 
 
 flavefcente, Cor. Inft. 
 
 94 Atriplex orientalis frutefcens folio ampliffimo argenteo, Cor. Inft. 
 
 95 Tamarifcus Narbonenfis, Lob. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 Of a Statue lately brought from Egypt. 
 
 ' ■ ' H E ftatue reprefented in the feventy-fixth plate is of wood, of the 
 fize it is drawn ; it is very particular, as it fhews the garment de- 
 fcribed in the account of the ftatue in the fixty-fecond plate. That ftiff 
 garment, as it feems to be, is feen better in this, as the figure is ftanding ; 
 one would imagine that it was in fome manner faften'd to the legs, or drawn 
 up fo as to hinder it from fetting out behind, as it does before. 
 
 After what relates to the other ftatues was printed off, this curious piece 
 was fent from Egypt, with feveral other antiquities, to His Grace the Duke 
 of Richmond. Among them, befldes a fine mummy, are feveral Egyp- 
 tian urns, in the form of the Canopus, and whatever they depofited in 
 them, remains in moft of them; and on examination, I found great rea- 
 fon to be perfuaded that they preferved the heart in thefe urns. 
 
 DIS- 
 
( ) 
 
 DISSERTATIO 
 
 D E 
 
 GEOGRAPHIA 
 
 M G Y P T I. 
 
 PR^MONITIO. 
 
 |N tibi, le£tor bcnevole, differtatiunculam de iEgypti geo- 
 graphia in eum finem a me confcriptam, ut lucem ali- 
 quam tabular noftra? geographies darem, limul et earn 
 contra objectiones prsmunirem. 
 
 Iftius tabula? ea ratio a me inftituta eft, ut quam 
 accuratiffime definitam exhiberem veterem geographiam 
 iEgyptiacam. Quod ad fubfidia hujus operis perficiendi attinet, fcias 
 velim, mihi in iEgypto agenti, forte fortuna, in manus perveniffe par- 
 vam quandam chartulam manu P. Sicardi delineatam: Noftra cum ilia 
 convenit de gradibus latitudinis, ficut etiam de fitu iftarum partium, 
 quafcunque oculis ipfemet non luftravi, excepto quod delineationem 
 orx maritime a Delta, tam orientem quam occidentalem verlus, tranf- 
 tulerim ex chartis nauticis. Chartula qusdam alia, manu exarata, 
 
 D d d d ex 
 
DISSERTATIO DE 
 
 ex iEgypto allata, fuppeditavit mihi chorographiam regionis qua; cir- 
 cumjacet SS. Antonii et Pauli monafteria: Tertiam quandam chartam 
 pro folita fua humanitate mecum communicavit dadtiffimus prxful D. D. 
 Nicholaus Claget epifcopusExonienfis: Earn antea videram Conftantinopoli 
 penes digniffimum virum mihique afniciffimum Thomam Payne archidia- 
 conum Breconienfem: Ea defcripta eft fignis tarn Arabicis quam Grscis, in 
 ufum (ut titulus pras fe fert) Chryfanthi patriarchs Hierofolymitani, anno 
 Domini millefino feptingentefimo vicefimo fecundo. Delineator (quifquis 
 fuerit ille) videtur fe totum compofuiffe ad librorum defcriptiones, non 
 oculorum fidem in locis perluftrandis acutus: Inde adeo cauthis illius vefti- 
 giis inhaerendum cenfui. Siquid excerpferim, fuis notis diftindtum exhi- 
 bet tabula noftra. 
 
 Binorum oftiorum Nili prse csteris ingentium, et totius fluminis ripas 
 ufque ad cataradtas, et ultra, ipfe navigans delineavi. In ea navigatione, 
 quam potui diligentiflime notavi fluxus varios fluminis et fitum locorum : 
 Montium juga depinguntur prout in ifta navigatione apparebant. 
 
 Loca habes fuis defcripta nominibus, tarn veteribus quam hodiernis ; 
 ilia fignantur literis majufculis Romanis, hsc autem Italicis. Notas infuper 
 vides, quibus dignofcas cujufnam audtoris potiflimum fidem hinc inde fum- 
 fecutus ; additis infuper aliis, triplicis generis, compendio exhibentibus 
 imxgitri)) meam de vero locorum fitu, quatenus difpofitio noftra inniti vi- 
 detur argumentis certis, probabilibus, vel demum conjedturabilibus : Sub 
 claffe pofteriore cadunt ea loca, quae nulla fignantur nota. Veterum fof- 
 farum curfus, quantum conjedtura aflequor, fignavi duplici pundtulorum 
 fubobfcuriorum ferie. Latitudinem fluvii vix ullo in loco pluris seftima- 
 verim quam quingentis paffibus ; inde adeo ratio magnitudinis ejus a me 
 certo confilio amplificabatur, ut effet facultas et fpatium infulas fignandi. 
 Alveum continue decrefcentem vides fuperne ; eft ifte quidem error chal- 
 cographo vertendus vitio. Magnitudo foftie feu fluvii Baher Jofeph, in 
 confinio Benefuief ab occidente alluentis, ad ipfum Nilum earn fere ha- 
 bet proportionem, Sicardo autore, quam noftra exhibet tabula. 
 
 Ex utraque ripa Nili, trans Deltam infuper, et a Copto ad Berenicen, 
 itinera fignavi, fecundum Antoninum, additis diftantiis. Ubicunque oc- 
 currit numerus duplex, fcias velim, pofteriorem a me emendationis loco 
 haberi ; quippe cum numeri olim recepti non quadrarent cum veris diftan- 
 tiis locorum : Idem eft inftitutum meum quoad loca in vicinio Maris Ru- 
 bri, quorum latitudines ex Ptolemaeo defumuntur. 
 
 Infularum, quafcunque oculis ipfemet attentius perluftravi, margines 
 fignantur linea altius imprefsa. 
 
 Sicardians charts fidem omnino fecutus fum in foffis delineandis, qux 
 confpiciuntur circa Faiume. Haec fatis eft monuifie lectorem, cujus can- 
 dori me tabulamque meam committo. Errores hinc inde latere nullus 
 dubitoj neque enim ea eft ipfius regionis jEgyptiacae natura, non ii inco- 
 larum mores, ut fas fit peregrinantibus animo obfequi, aut tutd curiofis 
 obfervationibus inftituendis fe dare. Habes tabulam cateris forfan, qus 
 hadtenus prodierunt, emendatiorem, quantulumcunque mea; induftrias mo- 
 numentum, aliens tamen, ut fpero, incitamentum. 
 
 Dilfertatio 
 
GEOGRAPHIA iEGYPTI. 
 
 287 
 
 Diflertatio de Geographia JEgypti. 
 
 G Y P T U M ab occidentc excipit Libya. Nomos prima (ifto enim 
 nomine vocabantur provincial ejus) occidentem verfus dicitur no- 
 mos Mareotis, in qua confpicitur vicus Chymo *, habitus pro Cy- Cynofcma, 
 nofema Strabonis, quam quidem locaverim in fitu turris Arabics : Tabula 
 Chryfanthina turrem hanc collocat in fitu Plinthines, qua?, me judice, 
 magis ad orientem vergebat. 
 
 In ipfo introitu vallis cujufdam aliquantulum recedentis a mari, et ab 
 Alexandria circiter triginta millia paffuum occidentem verfus, adhuc con- 
 ipiciuntur rudera quaedam urbis cum columnis magnificis: Ita nimirum 
 memoravit mihi vir quidam fide dignus avroirlm. Hanc habeo pro Tapofiri Tapofitijj 
 Strabonis b ; columnas autem pro reliquiis fenaculi in quo agebatur pane- 
 gyris, feu conventus publicus. Introitum vallis habeo pro tcrmino maris 
 'Avvfyts dicii. 
 
 Hinc commoda fefe ofFert occafio difquirendi de lacubus Mareoti et r, aC us Ma- 
 Moeri. Strabo c collocat lacum Mareiam feu Mareotin prope Alexandriam, J^ r s s & 
 latitudinem seftimans oftodecim millibus quingentis et quinquagenta paf- 
 fuum ; longitudinem triginta feptem millibus et quingentis ; lacum Marin 
 vero prope labyrinthum. Herodotus a nullum alium lacum memorat prater 
 Moerion ; ille, affentientibus Diodoro Siculo c et Mutiano, seftimat circum- 
 ferentiam ejus quadringentis quinquaginta millibus paffuum ; Pomponius 
 Mela f quingentis, Plinius 8 ducentis quinquaginta. Hie ille lacus fuit ad 
 labyrinthum; quantum vero ipfe oculis eum metiri poffem, non videba- 
 tur longitudine pertinere ultra triginta mille paffus, latitudine vero fex 
 mille ; Sicardus longitudinem ejus asftimat quinquaginta paffibus, latitudi- 
 nem quindecim mille, Gallica fcilicet menfuratione. Sicardo lubens tri- 
 buerim hac in re laudem accuratioris obfervationis, ideoque in tabula mea 
 illius fidem fum fecutus. 
 
 Quandoquidem fcriptores fupra memorati huic lacui tantam amplitudi- 
 nem ambitus uno ore tribuant, Herodotufque affirmet illius longitudinem 
 ab aquilone ad auftrum extendi, nihil prius potiufve conje&ura ftatuen- 
 dum arbitror, quam hunc lacum aliquando olim difFufum pertinuiffe per 
 totam iftam vallem, maris 'Ayuc^s (feu vacui aqua) nomine etiamnum nun- 
 cupatam. Nec vero abfimile eft eum etiam occidentem verfus patuiffe uf- 
 que ad ripam lacus Mcerios ; quod quidem in caufa potuerit fuiffe cur He- 
 rodotus Mcerin filentio pertranfierit. Narrat certe opinionem invaluiffe a- 
 quam lacus hujufce habere exitum verfus Syrtes fubter juga montium 
 Memphi imminentium ; quo fortaffe innuit, quod obfervatum fuerat ibi exi- 
 tum patuiffe, quando, Nilus folito inferius fubfidiffet, quo quidem tem- 
 pore fieri potuit, ut ipfae lacus aquae itidem decrefcerent intra lacus hodier- 
 ni anguftias *. 
 
 a NOMOT MAPEiiTOT OTtf§aAi©- X«|U« xteltw 'j juaitg^ ij^/pij woae (&o%tw n ^ iotbi.- Herod. 
 
 Ptol. 1. iv. c. 5. 1. ii. c. 149. 
 
 X°pW f*eya>>jv. Strab. J. Xvii. p. 799. ilm ioj.a^tKim Kj e|«lCDo-|'aiv. Diod. i. i. p. 48. 
 
 c *H 3 Mxgaat Ai'jwvtj tsfeletwa jut^e^ ^ Jtu^o, f Mceris, aliquando campus, nunc lacus quin- 
 
 &ha7@* fjj« Tshtiavw $ Krev7ji'nov7a «, hutiv soi- genta millia parTuum circuitu patens. Mela. 1. i. c. 9. 
 
 AW, pm®* S'ihx-tllmv $ T&coioaiw. Strab. 1. xvii. e Inter Arfmoiten ac Memphiten lacus fuit, 
 
 p. 799. circuitu cclm parTuum ; aut, ut Mudanus tradit, 
 
 d 'H Moi'e^©- KaAE0(W£kt) A/pvq to .s&<'u6- cccclm, a rege, qui fecerat, Mceridis adpellatus. 
 
 Tgoy ^ n&tih w\ soiSm t£«xsVioi x, re/trX' h,ai ^lin. !■ v - c - 9- * Vid. ^ot. priced. 
 
 Strabo 
 
a 88 DISSERTATIO DE 
 
 Foffa Akx- Strabo 11 defcriptionem aggreditur foffa; cujufdam ducentis ab Alexandria 
 
 andriiu. 
 
 ad Canopum et Schediam ; obfciiriufcula fane eft ea defcriptio, ft ad hodier- 
 nam regionis faciem exigatur. lib auctore, una eademque fofld ad utrum- 
 que locum navigatur; ad ripain ejufdem fita eft Eleulis, et paululum Eleuii 
 progreflb ad dextram eft foffa qua; Schediam deducit. Nullus itaque du- 
 bito quin ea fit foffa qua; hodie Alexandrina appellatur, et ob hanc cau- 
 fam fignavi tramitem cujufdam foffie pertingentis ab hodierna fofsa Alex- 
 andrina ad Canopum et alveum fluvii Canopicum: Et in genere ledores 
 Strabonis admonitos velim, foffam Canopicam aliud quiddam fonare quam 
 alveum Nili Canopicum. 
 
 In chartula Chryfanthina, alvei Nili fere omnes fuis deftituuntur nomi- 
 nibus ; alveus Canopicus ad traje&um nomine Madeam, in ea fignatur 
 tanquam foffa quasdam perexigua ; ad oftium ejus confpicitur exitus flu- 
 violi cujufdam, cum vico Ideu ad ripam ejus, quam delineator habet pro 
 veteri Schedia. A Bikiere duarum leucarum intervallo pervenitur ad tra- 
 jeclum feu Madeam habitum pro oftio Nili Canopico. (Urbs autem Ca- 
 nopus, nomen traxiffe dicitur a Canopo Menelai navis gubernatore ibi fe- 
 pulto.) Ad locum trajedtus alveus fluvii admodum coardlatur ; interiiis 
 vero fefe diffundit in latitudinem peramplam. In tabula Sicardiana fuec la- 
 titudo pertingit fere ufque ad ipfum Nilum ; fignantur etiam tres foffe ex 
 hoc alveo ducentes ad Nilum infra Fouam ; quarum unam ipfe confpexi. 
 Au£tor eft Strabo asdes Canopicas ad foffam fuiffe conftrufias ; ideo collo- 
 caverim Canopum ad exitum foffa; in ipfum fluvium, urbem vero He- 
 racleum haud procul ab oftio alvei Canopici, unde nomen alterum oftii 
 Heracleotici In eoquod afferit foffam communicari cum lacu, hoc velle 
 videtur, fcilicet earn ferri pene contiguam margini lacus, quod quidem fit 
 hodie : Et eft error fere communis verfionum Strabonis, curfum itineris ad 
 fluvium ad Canopum et Schediam recta patere per lacum ; cum vox Tzvry 
 referenda potius effet ad Stap£. Credibile eft tarn exitum foffa; Canopies, 
 quam oftium alvei Canopici majorem olim amplitudinem habuiffe: cum- 
 que flantibus aquilonibus aqua marina in lacum impellitur, ea; faucium 
 anguftia; prohibent quo minus aqua fluvialis in iftis partibus faliitudine de- 
 purgetur; et hax imprimis videtur effe caufa cur urbs Alexandria ex alia 
 potitTimum parte fluvii aquam Niliacam ad fe deportari maluerit. Signare 
 veros tramites veterum alveorum Nili eft iftud quidam difficilius k , plenum 
 
 opus 
 
 h E. S&£ $ 4 Kxm&ms 4 S'ipl k S^ilu wQarnxs iSxs, k)]i rfi "(is iS TfiW 
 
 fed. 4 3*iK«'mEo» tWirW if nf^m* t««'t, jj" «, eft) T«; xxhtSu nrtsVi»» fop«- <t 3 '"(I * "(is 
 jMtUi i JrtSr Mi i yiym "olxpi, k) SH r K«'.»Co», kjteju. fen" «™ j Kmb&mv njm >»»!'«'■ 4 3 * 
 tr(S,n j 39n T E»I.«»»- hi S xSrx xiSoalx tr^tctn tM* f o'S&p tu NeiV» is") i|«V «™£k» Ifof*©-^ is m 
 •f ii x, 1 s Vmnfam «*' «"'r? rj lUw- i& is M0» itrmislM. »jS» on jtff» ufaw » 
 
 t^tmrntrntHh 'Ami $<fBto**9- M0» fe i&h <m itoxff • <*" 
 
 (W^i, i, Agi* im i *«>{, W * ^X> S: <"' T®- T«-Tf , St! WW , ™ ««" 
 
 SA X a 3* ttMptm -f AAsJ«»J f «'«c 4 ZfcsA'a. Strab. I&rdws »f«. Efi 3 * ««0> **">• «" 
 
 1. Xvii. c. 8oo. ts Is6i»»u7.xs !br.^;i^i>;a, <pifi>I« ifS«A«s- 
 
 1 K«'»»6@- J'fe) wM! g« ««»o-i it, f«»1»> f«Ji'«f ™». "ii" S»»f"1» «U« T»*> "? y «S» ZaW' Mi'im, 
 
 ■iari 'AAf Wja'at mQI Sn, ar«V«> ^ <1>W ^ T '? 5 Mf«JwEo», t> 3 Bha6'ti>»» w»» ^ BsMJumi s« 
 
 !»««•« »uj srA t e u ' B ¥ 'it nT, vKsmpas «»3«»A V ««y J8«j<.4« f»>* T "' ««. « , «» 1 *- i H E rod - »• 'i' c - J 7; 
 ^ n5s (X i ll itm U,«1S„ f,,U i^r,, «V.Aa r ,'«t, ^ 'E&Vi J' W ™ «7« r.^nir, »» f (* 
 
 Mtm re A ? i'h ulza i« K«v»e<« ?» «KM^vs« % »«»to» x«Ae.T«< n«A«ri«]u., ™ 
 
 j,.,^^ ij^w, Hmmflbm t? S1«W'- M,T<i 3 * ^T f{ » T««1««, «™ ItolhjH * ^ S.- 
 
 * K«»«e»'» fe. ■» •H(£kK«m : ™ HoncAiw e^n Iff"' CmiWi 1 , fa 3 BrtSfriw., «, K*»«M% • 
 
 ™ K«™C, M ', ™<« & « tiVet M AfXIa. Strabo, TO fe H e ««Af»1.*«V in^l™- D,0 °- 1 '■ P; z 9; • 
 I xvii. p. Boi. 3 ^'f** 73 K« vu Ei)Cct fel TD B3Atj7rj41', flT« 7a 
 
 5 
 
GEOGRAPHIA iE G Y P T I. 
 
 opus aleas: Herodotus recenfet tres pra ceteris amplos, Canopicum, ad par- 
 tem Deltas maxime Occidentalem, Pelufiacum ad Orientalem, et Scbenniti- 
 cum utrifque interjeftum ; e Sebennitico profluxiffe ait Saiticum et Men- 
 defium: Bolbitinum et Taniticum artis opere, non natural fuifle eltbora- 
 tos. Intra omnes Icriptores convenit de alveis Orientali et Occidentali ; Ta- 
 niticum etiam ferunt fuifle proximutn Pelufiaco, nifi quod Herodotus addit 
 quendam nomine Bucolicum (eundem ipfum fortafle cum Tanitico con- 
 venit etiam inter omnes proximum efle Mendeiium et Bolbitinum excepto 
 Canopico fuiffe maxime Occidentalem. 
 
 Obfcurior eft Strabo, in eo quod, mentione facta de Sebennitico et Pliat- 
 nico, fubjungit " amplitudinis ratione pro tertio habetur," quae defcriptio 
 procul dubio intelligenda eft de Sebennitico. 
 
 Herodoto memorante, Sebenniticus alveus, per medium Deltam fecans 
 iter, introierat ad partem ejus maxime Auftralem, ubi Sicardiana tabula 
 exhibet quandam foffam, quam in meam tranftuli. Eodem auftore, alvei 
 Saiticus et Mendefius profluxerunt e Sebennitico, unde conjedturam facio, 
 Phatnicum eundem efle cum Saitico, et hoc nomen traxifle ex eo quod 
 proflueret e Saitico ad urbem Sain, fecundum repracfentationem in noftra 
 charta. 
 
 Alteram foflam, qua: ducit a Sebennitico ad Phatnicum, crediderim 
 fuifle opus recentioris a?vi, in eum finem elaboratam ut conjundtio fieret 
 Sebennitici alvei cum Buliritico et fofla Sabuniaca: Arthribiticum fluvium 
 e Sebennitico orientem verfus crediderim profluxiffe et poftea dedufium. 
 fuifle in duo \\jtv$G?o[ActTa, Pineptimi et Diolcon. Varis infuper occurrunt 
 foffas tranfverfe, per quas navigatur direfto tramite ab uno alveo ad alium ; 
 verbi gratia, Thermuthiaca Ptolemasi videtur pertigiffe a Cancpicoad Seben- 
 niticum, Bufiriticum ad Phatnicum: Foffam Sabuni habuerim pro fluvio, 
 qui, tefte Ptolemax), exiit e Bubaftico feu Pelufiaco ad urbem A- 
 thribin (forte Sakir) in Pathmeticum, quo fere in loco exiit etiam Athri- 
 biticus. 
 
 Bubafticum fluvium deduxi feptentrionem verfus ufque ad Manfouram; 
 ex ea parte exiiffe videtur Taniticus. Nullus dubito quin Bubafticus flu- 
 vius ferebatur olim curfu magis ad orientem vergenti ; (ifte ipfe eft curfus 
 hodiernus foflie Bubaftica: ;) nec ulla videtur efle alia methodus commo- 
 dior, (incommodam utique dixeris noftram) conciliandi Ptolemsum cas- 
 terofque fcriptores, quam fi fingamus hunc fluvium focialibus alterius fluvii 
 ab auftro venientis undis fuifle adauftum, et Pelufium demum alluifle. 
 Fluvii exeuntes per oftia Pelufiaca, Canopica, Bolbitina, fuo quifque no- 
 mine fignabantur, nimirum Bubaftico, Agathadsmone, et Tali ; ab oftia 
 
 SE&vviiiKot «, to flWlvixbV to/tov y*udc%ov tw itej-tta NEIAOT soual* £7r7«. 
 
 tzjfecji TCi Z^WTOS dVo, oTc W&SM TO AsA?o( TW ^ ®Ctl- 'H^xAeOjIiKO V SOfAX. 
 
 VIKW S-JUUTlist TO MtvJrio-iOV «T* TO T«'Jl7lXoV Kj T£?.£U- BoA&'riUOV fo'^«. 
 
 Toi?o» to n^sfffaKov. "En j K, aAAoo tstwv jus7«|u } us TiGiwulmov sou*. 
 
 «v ^otdasopal* oisv^an^. Strab. 3. xvii. p. 801. UiAttV^i ^WoVojuov. 
 
 Sunt in honore et intra decuriiis Nili multa op- AIo?,k@- rWoVo^ov. 
 
 pida, priecipue qui nomina dedere oftiis, non om- na6^^Ii);ov so'pac. 
 
 nibus (duodecim enim reperiuntur) fuperque qua- MwSwov sap*. 
 
 tuor, quae ipli falla ora adpellant, fed ecleberri- Txmkov sop* 
 
 mis feptem, proximo Alexandrian Canopico, deinde U^^iaxtv sop*- 
 Boibitino, Sebennitico, Phatnico, Mendefio, Ta- 
 nitico, ultimoque, Pelufiaco. PlinA.v. c. 10. 
 
 E e e c tamen 
 
a 9 o DISSERTATIODE 
 
 taraen aliquando ad fluvium nomen tranfiit. Hue forfan referenda eft 
 ambiguitas nominum Bucolici et Tanitici, quorum fcrfan illud fluvium, 
 hoc vero oftium primitus denotabat. 
 
 Ptolemaeus recenfet tria Delta, primum et quidem maximum, alveis 
 Tria Delta Orientali et Occidentali interjeftam : Alium, cognomine Parvum, fluvio 
 Bubaftico et alveis Bufiritico Phatnicoque comprehenfum ; et tertium de- 
 mum ab Oriente terminatum fluvio Bufiritico et Parhmetico alveo, ex al- 
 tera parte a fofsa qua; ducitur ex Bubaftico fluvio ad fluvium Pathmeticum 
 juxta urbem Arthribin, neque audiendus eft Ptolemaus (nec enim fibi con- 
 flat) dum affirmat hanc foflam conjungi cum Pineptimi. Et ha;c quidem 
 de alveis Niliacis oftiifque eorum difta funto : Ea omnia qua potui accu- 
 ratione charta noftra exhibet defcripta ; veftigia veterum fcriptorum nec 
 indiligenter fum fecutus, ut nodos expedirem quibus laborare folet hax 
 materia prae ceteris vexatiflima ; quam ut plenius intelligat, iterum ite- 
 rumque monendus eft lector, ut eofdem illos fcriptores evolvat, difpofiti- 
 onefque charts noftra ad Vetera ilia monumenta attento animo ftudioquc 
 referat. 
 
 Ab Alexandria, naviganti fecundum Strabonem, Eleufis prima occurrit, 
 fita ad foiTam Canopicam: Ulterius progredienti ad dextram fefe ofFert 
 foffa, qua ducit adSchediam; itinere feiheet deflexo verfus Euro-auftrum ; 
 unde conjedturam facio Schediam refte collocari in vico hodierno Damane- 
 hour, nec alium vicum denotare to Circu Itinerarii, quippe cum ab Alex- 
 andria aequali diftat intervallo, ut aurftor eft Strabo cum Itinerario col- 
 latus. 
 
 Crediderim alveum Canopicum occlufum fuiffe in eo fere loco unde exiit 
 Balbitinus, et viam poftea fibi fecifle triplici ifta fofla quam charta noftra 
 exhibet defcriptam, (quotiefcunque fcilicet altiori flumine infurgit Nilus.) 
 Naucratin collocaverim ad vicum Foua ex adverfo foflae Alexandrine ho- 
 
 Naucratin. dierna ; earn ipfam efle veterem illam auguror qua olim itum eft ad Sche- 
 diam. In vico Samocrate aliquatenus auftraliore agnofcere videor reliquias 
 veteris faltem nominis Naucratis. 
 
 SaiS ' Sain veterem conftituerim ad ripam occidentalem fofla; illius quae exit 
 
 ex oftio Sebennitico ; Ptolemseo nimirum tefte, ea urbs ifti fluvio et Cano- 
 pico alveo interjicitur, nec tamen negaverim urbem Sakir fitam in ripa 
 Orientali confervare reliquias iftius nominis parce detorti : Ea urbs a Nau- 
 crati diftabat duorum fchcenorum feu decern millium pafluum intervallo. 
 Sicardus earn habet pro veteri Xoi, ego vero ad Aquilonem magis vergere 
 ftatuerim ; Ptolemaus utrumque nomon Sebenniten ab auftro fpedtare 
 Arthribin; inferiorem fcilicet, cui metropolis Pachnamunis, fuperiorem, 
 cui Sebennitus. 
 
 Xois. Xois 1 haberi folet pro urbe infulari ,• nimirum objedu foflarum quo- 
 
 rundam fit infula. Ptolemseo ftatuente, fita erat hac urbs inter fluvios 
 Thermuthiacum et Athribiticum, ideoque in terra continente : Strabo col- 
 locat earn in nomo Sebennitico. Ptolemaus autem recenfet nomon quen- 
 dam Xoitem, avo forfan recentiore defumptum ex Sebennitico, ab hac 
 urbe profluxifle videtur appellatio ilia totius regionis, quae occurrit in facra 
 fcriptura, fcilicet Terra de Zoan. 
 
 1 'Ev 3 t? fAtfeyuAX. tJj vWej ts Ss€evvv7ix? ttj $«'t- Ti*t> vetifi Strab. 1. vii. p. 802. 
 
 Ptolemaus 
 
 3 
 
GEOGRAPHIA iEGYPTI. 2 9 r 
 
 Ptolema;us habetThmuim pro primaria urbe nomi Mendefii, Strabo au- 
 tem Menden ; unde conjeduram facio eandem effe urbem, duplici infig- 
 nitam nomine: Herodotus etiam recenfet nomon quendam Thmuiten ; 
 hinc fadum ut hicce nomos etiam duplex fortitus fit nomen. Mentiorie 
 fada de alveo Tanitico, Strabo eum appellat Saiticum, quam binomiam 
 funt qui augurantur ortam fuiffe ex eo quod urbis Tanis prirnitus appellata 
 fuerit Sais: Cum vero neminem Straboni fuflragantem legimus, ftatuerim 
 potius Strabonem erraviffe, et Saiticum eundem effe cum Phatnitico. Bu- 
 firiticus fluvius, fecundum Ptolemseum, effluit ex alveo Bubaftico in Phat- 
 nicum, adeoque habetur tantum pro foffa quadam tranfverfa inter eos 
 alveos. 
 
 Sicardus auguratur fe reperiffe veftigia veteris Cynopoleos apud Chiu. 
 
 Tertium Delta * ftatuitur inter fluvios Bufiriticum, et eum qui effluit e 
 Bubaftico in Pineptimi (dicendum forfan erat, in Phatniticum ;) eum ego 
 habuerim pro foffa Sabuni, qua; ex Nilo ducitur ad urbem Aboufir. Dum 
 Ptolema;us fluvium appellat Bubafticum, tarn hie quam ubi mentionem 
 facit de ortu Bufiritici, intelligendus eft innuere velle Taniticum ex eo 
 adhuc inferius defluxiffe, forfan apud Manfouram, quo in loco, conjedura; 
 mea; aliquantulum tribuens, collocavi Tanin ; cumque Bubafticus eo in Tanis - 
 loco defledit verfus orientem, eum habuerim pro Tafne, ob captivitatem 
 Ludovici IX. in bello facro fatis famofa. Recentiores quofdam lectitavi 
 recenfentes rudera qusdam urbis adhuc confpici apud Themaie, intervallo 
 feptem leucarum a Manfoura orientem verfus: In iis fignare poffe videor 
 reliquias veteris Heracleopoleos parva;, feu, memorante Sicardo, Balbeios: 
 Primaria quidem urbs fuit ilia nomi Sethroits, Sethri nomine olim appel- 
 lata. Secundum Itinerarium, hsc urbs recedit a Pelufio intervallo viginti 
 duum mille paffuum. 
 
 Foffa Regalis pertinebat a Phacufa, qua; fita erat ad alveum Bubafticum, FfHRe- 
 ufque ad mare Erythrseum : In eo curfu videtur lacum quendam pertran- ° 
 fiffe, forfan etiam impedito aquarum curfu feciffe, et praterlapfam He- 
 roopolin exiiffe demum ad urbem (Arfinoem hodie) Suez: Et intervallo cir- 
 citer ducentorum quinquaginta paffuum ab occidentali parte Suez animad- 
 verti veftigia veteris cujufdam alvei. 
 
 Foffa Trajani extendebatur a Babylone, vel vetere Cairo; et difertis vcr- FoDiTra. 
 bis dicitur allabi Heroopolin; hoc autem fieri non potuiffe ftatuunt ali- ]lm 
 qui, nifi exaruerit foffa Regum: Mihi quidem facilis videtur effe nodi hu- 
 jufce explicatio, fi fecundum charts noftise repraffentationem fingamus 
 hanc foffam Trajani influxiffe in illam alteram Regalem fupra memora- 
 tam. Apud veterem Cairo adhuc confpicitur quasdam foffa vergens ad 
 Euro-aquilonem ; Sicardus earn terminari fingit in lacu Birk-el-Hadjee ; 
 aliis autem memorantibus audivi earn rivulo quodam illapfam lacui, in ul- 
 teriora deferri. 
 
 In parte charta; noftrs Euro-aquilonari confpicitur fluvius Sihor, qui ^ vial 
 difterminaffe dicitur Pala;ftinam ab Egypto m : In textu biblii originali vox 
 fonat Torrentem Egypti, et apud LXX. redditur Rhinocorura : Tabula; 
 nautica; hie loci exhibent rivulum quendam, infervientem aquationi nau- 
 
 * Aiyatm <J' a* jt, t^'tow A=aI« ju.e7«^u sw H£tj- Tg/TS Asa7« 3-etrif. Ptol. IV. C. 5. 
 
 f4-'»>, xM if}{Sai i B»6*f«o! as $ A' A8e/'Ci«! jto- m Efaise xxvii. 12. 
 
 Ala,-, K, T« n»v£7rli^i f s'p»7© J f'icvlfl, K K, w-.i '* 
 
 tarum ; 
 
2 9 z DISSERT A TIODE 
 
 tarum ; nec defunt probati fcriptores qui mentionem faciunt de torrente 
 de Rhinocorura: Vici itidem Gaza; ■> pertigiffe dicuntur ufque ad torren- 
 tem Hgypti ; falfos itaque habuit quofdam ea opinio, voce ifta innui 
 Nilum. 
 
 Latrus Sirbo- Lacum Sirbonim colloco apud Faramidaftangoni, eique pro limitibus 
 antiquis conftituo infulas iftas, feu rupes, qus notantur in charta nautica. 
 Hie ille lacus eft apud poetas ob Typhonem fubter pofitum famofus : Lon- 
 gitudine patuit viginti quinque millia paffuum, latitudine autem fex millia 
 et quingenta. Aliquandiu ab eo ad mare exitus dabatur per alveum 
 quendam nomine Ecregma. Strabo fcribit hanc foffam objeclis arenis 
 aruifle: Poftea temporis crediderim impetu maris diuturno receffiffe ripam 
 iftam anguftam, cujus objeflu lacus olim difterminabatur a mari ; cumque 
 hoc modo vifum minus accuratum eftugiat, lacus ifte, non miror quof- 
 dam a recentioribus fcriptitafle Sirbonin jam diu arenis eflc oppletam. 
 Conjedluram noftram conformant dua; chartse geographical manufcriptae ex 
 oculorum, non aurium fide defcripts, qua; mihi Venetiis agenti in manus 
 pervenerunt, et fmum quendam lacu Sirboni exhibent : Animadvertendum 
 eft Strabonem, dum recenfet qusdam memoratu digniora de hoc lacu, 
 videri eum panim diftinxifTe a mari Mortuo. 
 
 Chabrix. Ad ripam orientalem oftii Pelufiaci collocatur Carabez in tabula ma- 
 nufcripta ; earn crediderim fignare locum Chabriarum ; quas, ficuti etiam 
 Gerras, fcribit Strabo fuiffe fitas in loco deprelliori et paiuftri ; Plinius habet 
 Chabrias pro Caftro. 
 
 Hie loci animadvertendus eft error Itinerarii Antonini, quo numerante 
 recenfetur certe nimis longum intervallum ducentorum et tredecim mille 
 paffuum a Pelufio ad Alexandriam. 
 
 Pdiirmm. Pelufium in tabula Chryfanthina dicitur Attineh, etymologia prorfus 
 confimili in utraque lingua, tam Graeca quam Arabics; Tine enim Ara- 
 bice, zTtjTii; Grace, fonat Ccenum. 
 
 Inter proficifcendum a Nilo ad Mahallam, dimidio (fcilicet duum mille 
 paffuum) itinere confefto pertranfimus foffam quandam exiguam dedu- 
 £tam ex magna ilia qua; pertingit ad Borlom : Ad ripam ejus Borealem 
 confpicitur vicus, quo fere in loco jungitur cum alia quadam majore ad 
 Thraciam vergente. In ripa iftius majoris foffar, iter erat quaff duorum 
 mille paffuum, quo confecio, earn cymba trajecimus, aliamque porro, cui 
 fuperimponitur pons lapide quadrato, ad orientalem partem urbis Mahallae. 
 Hinc Euro-aquilonem verfus iter eft ad Baalbait quaff novem mille paffuum, 
 inde devenitur ad ripam occidentalem prsdiclas foflje, aliamque porro 
 cymba trajecimus, quartamque vado; et duum mille quafi paffuum in- 
 tervallo demum pervenitur ad amplum quendam alveum a Nilo dedudum 
 infra Semmenud, et in mare profluentem ad orientalem partem lacus Bru- 
 los : Accolss earn appellarunt Thabaneam ; ego vero ftatuerim earn effe ip- 
 fum Mendeffum, e Phatnico profluentem, quem itaque eo nomine diftinxi, 
 Herodoti mentem, ni fallor, affecutus. 
 
 In hujus mei itineris curfu cum fola ex-trema alveorum legerim, nec in 
 interiora regionis delatus fuerim, fuse notaffe fatis habui, neque fatis fub- 
 ffdii fum affecutus, ut de alveorum curfu quidpiam auderem mutare. 
 
 " Jofuas xv. 47. 
 
 Sunt 
 
GEOGRAPHIA .EGYPT I. 293 
 
 Sunt qui Babylonis veftigia quarunt in ipsa vetere Cairo, eo autem dif- Babylon, 
 convenit eos inter et Strabonem °, quod hie afferit per clivum afcendi a 
 Nilo ad Babylona, planities autem mille paffuum Iatitudine patens exten- 
 ditur inter Nilum et veterem Cairo: Lubens itaque Babylona collocavcrim 
 in colle Jehufi, fitu a vetere Cairo euro-auftrali ; in quo quidem adhuc 
 confpiciuntur adificiorum collapforum rudera; hue adde, quod hie fitus 
 apprime quadrat cum Herodoto afferente Babylona e dianietro fpedtare 
 verfus pyramidas. 
 
 Memoriae proditum accepimus Memphin abfuiffe a Delta quindecim Memphis, 
 mille ' paffuum, quinque d pyramidibus ; lacu ad aquilonem et zephy- 
 rum fuiffe terminatam ; ad orientem ab ipfo Nilo ; intervallo quad duo- 
 decim mille paffuum, verfus auflrum ingentem portendi aggerem in eum 
 finem coacervatum, ut Nilus, relifto veteri alveo, in quo alluebat radices 
 collium occidentales, nee infrequenter terras demiffiores aqua inundabat, 
 medium iter inftitueret inter colles orientales et occidentales q . 
 
 Verum Memphios fitum et rudera fruftra quasfiveris in ipfa regione : 
 attentiori vero difquifitione veteres fcriptores perfcrutatus earn collocave- 
 rim haud procul a Mocanen ; in eo nomine apparent veftigia nominis 
 Moph, quo a facris fcriptoribus indigitari folet ; hinc auftrum verfus a pla- 
 nitie, per quam itur ad Faiume, adhuc fuperfunt tumuli arenofi, reliquiae, 
 ni fallor, aggeris fupra memorati. 
 
 Acanthum Strabonis collocavi apud Ofman, nulla habita ratione calculo- Acanthus; 
 rum Ptolemasi, qui earn Canthon appellat ■ conftituit abeffe decern mille 
 pafluum intervallo a Memphi verfus auftrum. 
 
 Tabula Chryfanthina, in definiendo urbium fitum, praecipuam rationem Bacchis, 
 fimilitudinis nominum videtur habuiffe, e. g. Bxyx. 1 " habet pro ipfa Bacchi, 
 eamque collocat ad fofi'am Jofephi apud Bahnefam quadraginta mille paf- 
 fuum intervallo a lacu Mceri, ad cujus ripam earn conftitifle audtor eft 
 Ptolemaeus. 
 
 Si fimilitudinem nominis fequamur, in Sclinge agnofcere poffe videmur Selinon. 
 Selinon; quo quidem in loco rudera quaedam adhuc fupereffe dicuntur: 
 Repugnare tamen videtur intervallum, quo diftare a Panopoli hodie Ak- 
 mim dicitur in Itinerario. 
 
 Regionem iftam urbis Thebarum, quas dicebatur Memnonium, confti- 
 tuerim apud Medinet Abou, qua; quidem vox fonat Civitas Papa, fevr Pa- 
 tris (quo nomine forfan Memnon apud vulgus audiit ;) hue refer urbem 
 Papam Itinerarii : cumque vox Abba feu Abbou a primsevis temporibus fo- 
 naverit pater, in ea quaefiverim etymon Abydi urbis cujufdam Mediterranean 
 prope Ptolemain palatio peramplo Memnonis confpiciendam. 
 
 E tabula Sicardiana defumpfi defcriptionem foflas, in qua occurrit infula 
 fatis ampla Edfou ; ea itidem duce fignavi intervallum, quo ea infula 
 diftat ab Ombo, minus forfan quam par eft ; cum vero mea; obfervationes 
 nihil habeant certi, cui fatis poflum fidere, nil mutandum duxi. 
 
 'Pa^'f ^ ef!v ^57s r5 S^Mr'lZtt Kj IK%°J- NhAs* ti? If h, \$ ij aroAAai i&p Hvppp! Jef Hffl. Strabo. 
 
 xsifiii'xsFee, its ^ri T» ars7«us Tgo^o) k, xo^Ai'iW id 1. XVII. C. 808, 809. 
 
 tjlu^ utaywv. Strab. I. xvii. p. S07. 5 "Efi y Me^lf b/ yeyy I s 'AiyuW i&kv § 
 
 t:W iVi Ta AiA7« Tg/'^oivon as XUTt]1 ~ «, Erjrtjijv, ID ^ TTca; t- tj'w xutos a NhA@* «7r£gyH. 
 
 TeIju&mvIiX S' Stts t 7Tfl'A£W5 7«I/vs wdoea9o\7(s ogHvij' Herod. 1. 11. c. 99. 
 
 F f f f 
 
 Ad 
 
DISSERTATIO, &c. 
 
 Ad mare Erythraum fignantur duo portus, nomine Coffeir, neuter qui- 
 dem ftationi navium fatis tutus ; ad novum, qua; ad auftrum magis ver- 
 git, ftatuerim Berenicen fuiffe fitam: Verfus aquilonem ulterius naviganti 
 fefe offert alius perquam commodus, nomine Hamrofie: Nefcio fane quo- 
 nam intervallo abfit a Coffeir, ideoque incertus an veteri portui Leuco 
 five Myo refpondeat. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
( *95 ) 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A A RON, htll named from him, and 
 tradition about it, 147 
 Abiram. See Datban. 
 Aboukir, or Bikiere, ir. Remains of 
 aqueducts there, ibid. Salt lake, ibid. Sta- 
 tue fuppofed of a fphynx, ibid. 
 Aboufagat-Benifama, 72 
 Abouftr, a confiderable town, 22. 
 Aboutig, 75. Suppofedto be theHypfele of the 
 
 antients, ibid. 
 Acacia-tree, 4.1, Wood of them at Saccara, 49. 
 
 Some account of that tree, 69, r 54 
 Acanthus, 69. Temple of Ofiris laid to have 
 
 been there, ibid. 
 Accabah, the antient Elana, 137 
 Achemfia (Lake of) conjecture about it, 66 
 Acbmed Bedoui, his fepuichre, and opinion about 
 
 it, 17 
 Adalia, near Cairo, 36 
 
 Adjerotite, 132. Caftle, ibid. Conjectured to be 
 
 antient Heroopolis, ibid. 
 ^rtf(Turkifh) 185 
 Aiaidi, Arabs fo called, 137 
 Akmim, voyage to that city, 69. Conjectured 
 to be the fame with Panopolis, 76. Situation, 
 ibid. Canal, ibid. Manufactures of old and 
 at prefent, ibid. Prince of, his origin, ibid. 
 Streets and houfes, ibid. Francifcan convent, 
 77. Prince, his character, ibid. Suppofed a 
 fecret favourer of Chriftianity, ibid. In danger 
 on that account, ibid. Ruins of an antient 
 temple, ibid. Infcnptions, fculptures, &c. 
 ibid. Other ruins, 78. . Defcription, and con- 
 jectures about them, ibid. Mofques, ibid. 
 Convent of the Martyrs, ibid. Another called 
 Dermadoud, ibid. Hermit's cell, ibid. Fine 
 water of the well called Bir-EIaham, the only- 
 water in Egypt that does not come from the 
 Nile, ibid. Conjecture about thole places, ibid. 
 Sepulchral grottos, and paintings in them, &c. 
 ibid. Other antient convents, 79. Souadgy, ibid. 
 Lakes, and great number of wild fowl in them, 
 ibid. Convent of Embefhnuda, ibid. Antiquity, 
 and conjectures about it, ibid. Remains of 
 antiquity there, ibid. Conjectured to be the 
 fituation of antient Crocodilopolis, ibid. Churches 
 of the convents, ibid. Convent of Der-Em- 
 babfhai, ibid. Author entertained there in the 
 
 church, So. ■ entertained on Chriftmas 
 
 day in the Turkifli manner, ibid. Obferva- 
 tions on fome cuftoms there, 87. Author's 
 departure from thence, ibid. 
 
 Ahmud-Bijige, obelifk fo called, 57 
 
 Alachia, a fruitful ifland in the Nile, 1 15 
 
 AUBafetin, near Cairo, 25 
 
 Alexander the Great, city of Alexandria built by 
 him, 2. His tomb, 4 
 4 
 
 Alexandria, by whom built, and made the ca- 
 pital of Egypt, 2. Its greatnefs, ibid. Ports, 
 ibid. Pharos or light houfe, ibid. Said to 
 have been once warned by water on two fides, 
 3. Walls, ibid. Towers for their defence, 
 ibid. Great remains of antiquity to be feen 
 there, 4. Other buildings ftill remaining, con- 
 jectured to be later than the Ptolemies, ibid. 
 Palace, ibid. Tombs of the Kings, ibid. 
 Market place, Rhacotis, Bucolis, 5. Caufey 
 and bridges, ibid. Weftern port, antiently 
 Eunoftus, ibid. Canopus, ibid. Panium, 6. 
 Great ftreet, Gymnafium, ibid. Porticos of 
 an extraordinary length, ibid. Forum, ibid. 
 Gate of Necropolis, ibid. Cifterns, and me- 
 thod of conveying the waters of the Nile 
 and of the canal of Canopus into them, 
 ibid. Old city, now intirely demolilhed, 
 ibid. Mofques, 7. Church dedicated to St. 
 Mark, faid to have flood near the fpot where 
 he fuffered, ibid. Mofque of St. Athanafius, 
 ibid. Convents, ibid. Pretended relicks of St. 
 Mark and St. Catharine, ibid, Copti and La- 
 tin convent, ibid. Caftle, ibid. New city, its 
 prefent ftate, and caufes of its decay, ibid. O- 
 belifks, ibid. Theatre, ibid. Pompey's pil- 
 lar, defcription of it, 8. Catacombs, 9. Fof- 
 fee to the lake, ibid. Tapofins, 10. Baher- 
 Bellomah, lake Mareotis, canal of Canopus, 
 Hippodromus, ibid. Character of the inhabi- 
 tants, ibid. Addicted to difiblute diverfions, 
 13. Gardens did not produce the olive natu- 
 rally, 57. St. Mark faid to have firft preached 
 the gofpel there, and to have been the firft pa- 
 triarch, 244 
 Al-liarem-Baiamout, pyrai '.ids fb called, 57 
 Al-Herem-Kieber, another fo called, 70 
 Allauni, Arabs fo called, 138 
 Amara, ruins of antient Tentyra, 85. See Ten- 
 tyra. Temple and its meafures, 86. Tradi- 
 tion of a city built upon the roof of St, ibid. 
 Diverfe noble remains of antient architecture, 
 fculpture and hieroglyphics, ibid. Coloffal 
 figures, and fphynxes, 87. Charcoal for great 
 part of Egypt furnifhed from thence, ibid. 
 Amrab, remarkable mofque of that name at 
 Cairo, 28 
 
 Amrou-Ben-As, Babylon befiged by him, 26 
 Antar (King) tower of, 69. Tradition of build- 
 ings of his near Babylon, ibid. 
 Antelope, 123 
 
 Antinoopolis, a ruined city, now Enfineh, 73, 
 Built by the Emperor Hadrian, in honour of 
 Antinous, ibid. 
 
 Antirrhodes (Ifle) 5. Thought to have been over- 
 flowed by the fea, ibid. 
 
 Antiquity (Several remains of) brought from Egypt, 
 defcribed, 211. & feqq. Conjectures about 
 lbme of them, ibid, 
 
 Antony, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 AnttX), the Titnonium at Alexandria built by 
 him, 5. Overcome by Auguttus at Nicopo- 
 lis, 1 1 
 
 Antony (St.) convent of, 70. Pretended relicks, 
 and traditions of him, ibid. Said to have 
 founded the monadic life, ibid. See alfo 127. 
 
 Axubis worlhipped at Cynopolis, 71. Conjecture 
 of the reafon why his ftarues have the head of 
 a Dog, ibid. See Mythology^ 
 
 Aphioum or Opium, by whom much ufed, 181. 
 
 Aphroditopolis, the city of Venus, in. 
 
 Apis, a bull fo named, worlhipped at Memphis, 
 23, 41, (Sc. 
 
 Apollinopolis, the lefs, now Cous, 89 
 
 Aquedutls, at Aboukir, 1 1 . Magnificent one at 
 Cairo, 27, 35. Ruinous one, 35. 
 
 Arabia, its divifion, 136. Foelix, fituation 
 
 and extent, ibid. Petrea, fituation and ex- 
 tent, ibid. Deferta, fituation and extent, 
 
 ibid. Black mountains in Arabia Petnca, Pto- 
 lemy's account of them, ibid. Defcription of 
 Arabia Petrasi, ibid. £5? feqq. Natural hiftory, 
 j 54. Furnilhed with corn from Egypt, 204. 
 Plants of, a lift of them, 281, 6? feqq. 
 
 Arabic (Gum) whence produced, 69 
 
 Arabs, their genius, 10. Exercifes on horfe- 
 back, 57. Under no government, 71. In- 
 ftances of their avarice, and d.fpofition to 
 thefts and robberies, 72, 82, 139, 142, 159, 
 (0c. Exrraordinarv inftance of fidelity in one, 
 114. Manner of life, 137, 177, (Sc. Po- 
 verty, ibid. Government, ibid. See Sheiks. 
 Honefty to one another, 1 3 S . Liberality, ibid. 
 One a protection againft all the reft, ibid. Me- 
 thod of getting water, 139. Manner of ma- 
 king up differences, 140. Honefty of thofe 
 ■who live near Tor, 141. Divifion, 177, 
 178. Skill in managing their horfes and pikes, 
 (Sc. ibid. Of an inquifitive difpofition, 181. 
 Manner of falutation, 182. Addrefs very ele- 
 gant in fome refpects, ibid. Manner of eating, 
 1 S3. Hofpitality, ibid. Poverty of the lower 
 fort of people, ibid. 
 
 Arches, great number in the aqueduct at Cairo, 
 27. Conjecture about the invention of them, 
 219, fjff. Very rare in Egypt, 220 
 
 Archemounain (Village) 74. Conjeflured to ftand 
 on the ruins of Hermopolis, ibid. Temple, 
 127 
 
 Archimandrite, natute of that ecclefiaftical digni- 
 ty, 152 
 
 Architecture of Egypt, 194- That and the ma- 
 terials of their houfes very mean, ibid. Of 
 the Mamaluke times grand, ibid. Egyp- 
 tian among the firft efiays of that art, 215. 
 Greek, little of, to be fecn in Egypt, ibid. 
 Gradual improvement in it to be obferved 
 from the remains of antiquity, ibid. Conje- 
 cture about the original of the Corinthian or- 
 der, ibid. Proportion in the Egyptian pillars 
 not cafily fixed, ibid. See alfo 216, & feqq. 
 Roofs, 216. Capitals, 217. Entablature, 
 218. Cornices, Doors, 219. Sculpture, ibid, 
 (i feqq. Arch, 219, 220. Private buildings, 
 ibid. • ' ' ,r 
 
 Arafat (Mount) devotions paid there by the pil- 
 grims to Mecca, 189 
 
 Arfime, 55. Suppofed to have flood where 
 Faiume does now, ibid. See Faitwie. Said 
 to have been the mod beautiful fpot in Egypt, 
 
 ^7. Produced the olive naturally, ibid. Py- 
 ramids, ibid. Called the city of Crocodiles, 
 and why, 59. Strabo's account of its fitua- 
 tion and extent, (Sc. and conjectures, 133. 
 Account of the antient city and port, (Sc . ibid. 
 Artois (Earl of ) drowned near Manfoura, 20 
 Arts, what they were in their infancy, and their 
 gradual improvements, how to be judged of, 
 212 
 
 Affes, univerfally ufed in Cairo, 207. Number 
 
 fuppofed to be in that city, ibid. 
 Affouan, a fmall town, 116. Ruins of antient 
 
 Syene, ibid. Hieroglyphics on the rocks there, 
 
 119. Accidents that happened there, ibid. 
 
 Quarries of granite, 120. Remains of a wall, 
 
 and conjectures about it, ibid. 
 A/lronomy, flourifhed greatly at Thebes, 109 
 Afychis (King) laborious method taken by him to 
 
 build a pyramid, 53 
 Afylum, of Ofiris, 17 
 Attakah (Mount) 138 
 
 Auguttus, tomb of Alexander viewed by him, 4. 
 
 His victory over Antony at Nicopolis, 1 1. 
 Azabs, military body fo called, 164. Have 
 
 charge of the country round Cairo, 165. Their 
 
 great power, ibid. 
 
 B 
 
 BAalbait, 18, 21. Moft magnificent remains 
 in Egypt there, 2 1 
 Baalbeis, fuppofed the fame with Themaic and 
 
 Heracleopolis, 20, t6r 
 Babel-Zuile, one of the gates of Cairo fo called, 
 30. Tradition of a Sultan's having been hang- 
 ed under it, ibid. 
 Babylon, fuppofed to have been near the place 
 where Cairo ftands now, 25. Befieged by 
 Amrou-Ben-As, ibid. 
 Bacchus, how he came to be worlhipped, (Sc. 
 223 
 
 Baderijheeh, 56 
 
 Bagnios, at Cairo, 36. At Arfinoe, 59 
 
 Baharum (Vale of) 137 
 
 Baheirah, 161 
 
 Baher-Bellomah, jo 
 
 Bahr-Jofeph, 60, 64 
 
 Baiamout. See Arjime. 
 
 Bait-el-Pharaone. See Houft of Pharaoh. 
 
 Balm of Gilead, ttadition about ir, 245 
 
 Balfam Garden, at Heliopolis, ibid. 
 
 Barbara (St.) Pretended relicks of her at Cairo, 
 
 Bardis, 84 
 Barcach, valley, 158 
 
 Barley (Liquor made of) by whom invented, 226 
 Baths of Mofes, 14 r. Suppofed the antient E- 
 
 lim, ibid. 
 Battle. See Benimfar. 
 Bats, of an extraordinary fize, 210 
 Bafetin, gardens of, near Cairo, 35 
 Beccafigo, bird fo called, 210 
 Becmes, what, 58 
 
 Beer, made by the Turks, 1S2. Mentioned by 
 Herodotus, ibid. 
 
 Bees, ftrange Method of managing them, 210 
 
 Benalhaffar, ruins of a city there, 22. Conje- 
 ctured to be the antient Bubaftus, Phibefeth of 
 the Scripture, ibid. 
 
 Benefuief, town, 70. Manufacture there, 71 
 
 Bern- 
 
 5 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Bcni-Soliman, people fo called, 137. Their Sheik 
 
 fuperior to all the others, ibid. 
 Benimfar, and Shcik-Faddle, battle between thofe 
 
 villages, 127 
 Beni/b days, what, 1S4 
 
 Berangieb, 7 1 - Suppofed the fame with Cyno- 
 polis, ibid. 
 
 Berber ines, a people from Nubia, at Cairo, 38 
 Be fa, y 3 
 
 Btys (Divan of) at Cairo, 33, etc. Eight affaf- 
 
 fmated at once, 72. See Tunis. 
 Bcze/fans, what, 3 1 
 Ei ban-el- Meluke, 97 
 Eibeb, town, 71 
 
 Bible, manufcript of it at Cairo, pretended to 
 have been written by Ezra, and it range tradi- 
 tion about it, 28 
 
 Bijige, obelifk fo called, 59 
 
 Bikiere. See Aboukir. 
 
 Biram, Turkifli fcaft fo called, 85 
 
 Birds (Catacombs oh) See Catacombs. 
 
 Bif-Elaham, the only fpring in Egypt, 78 
 
 Bir-el- Hammer, 159. Dead bodies left in the 
 road there, ibid. 
 
 Bir-el-Suez, well ib called, 132 
 
 Birk-el Garish (Lake) 65 
 
 Bifiopricks, Egyptian and others under the patri- 
 arch of Alexandria, catalogue of them from 
 the patriarch's map, 279, et feqq. 
 Bi/hops, in Egypt, their general employment, 70 
 Bitumen, how ufed in embalming, etc. 232 
 Blindnefs, how occafioned in Egypt, 195 
 Boars (Wild) 17 
 Boats, in Egypt, defcribed, 69 
 Bolbitinum, a branch of the Nile, 1 3 
 Boltin^ fuppofed to be the old Butus, 1 6 
 Botargo, what, 18 
 
 Bouche, probably the fame with Ptolemais, 70 
 
 Bricks (unburnr.) manner of making them, 53 
 
 Bridges, to the ifle Pharos, 2. At the port of 
 Alexandria, 5. At Metrahenny, 41. At 
 Saccara, 48. At Dafhour, 56. At Arfinoe, 
 58, 59. At Sciout, 75. At Kept, 88 
 
 Brulos, a lake near Rofetto, 16 
 
 Bubaftic branch of the Nile, the fame with the 
 Pelufiac, 18 
 
 Bucolis, 5 
 
 Buffaloes, 207 
 
 Bulac, port of Cairo, 28, 29. Cuftom-houfe and 
 
 bagnio there, ibid. 
 Burial-place of the Kings at Alexandria, 4 , Of 
 
 Ofiris, 17. Of Sheik Duise, near Cairo, 36. 
 
 Of Keid Bey, etc. ibid. 
 Bujh (Holy) chapel of, 150 
 Bufiris, 18. Conjecture about its fituation, 21 
 Bufiritic Branch of the Nile, ibid. 
 Bufiris (King) city Thebes faid to have been 
 
 built by him, 91 
 
 C 
 
 CADIS, at Cairo, 170. Sent yearly from 
 Conftantinople only to certain places, ibid. 
 Cadilijkier, nature of his office, ibid. Sends Ca- 
 dis to moil towns in Egypt, ibid. 
 Czfarium, fuppofed to have been a temple to Cse- 
 
 far, 5. 
 Caia, what, 163, 165 
 Caimacam, nature oi his Office, 166 
 Cairo, Embarkation for it, 16. Arrival there, 
 17. Suppofed to ftand on or near the fite oi 
 Vol. I. 
 
 old Bablyon, 25. Caftle, ibid. Cafr Kie- 
 man, ibid. Confifts of three cities, ibid. An 
 tiently called Mefr, 25. And likewife Foil- 
 hath, and why, 26. By the Arabs, Caher, 
 ibid. Account of the building of it, by the 
 Arabic Hiftorians, ibid. Kebafeh, now ruinous, 
 ibid. Roida, ibid. Jofeph's Granaries, ibid. 
 Noble aqueduct, 27. Canal, fuppofed to be 
 that of Trajan, ibid. Annual ceremony of 
 opening the canal, ibid. Tradition of their 
 facrificing a virgin every year to the Nile, ibid. 
 Pillar of earth fet up, etc. in place of that an- 
 tient ceremony, ibid. Copti churches, ibid. 
 
 of St. Barbara, and pretended relicks of that 
 
 Saint, ibid. — — of St. Sergius, ibid. Tradi- 
 tion of the holy family's having been in it, 
 ibid. - of St. George, and fuperftitious tra- 
 ditions about it, 28. Synagogue of great an- 
 tiquity, ibid. Convent of Francifcan.s, ibid. 
 Remarkable mofque called Amrah, ibid. Mofque 
 of Omar, ibid, ifle Roida, its beauties, ibid. 
 Mikias, or houfe in which is the pillar for 
 meafuring the riie of the Nile, ibid. Cafia- 
 raline, gardens there, 29. Convent of Der- 
 vifhes, and their manner of life, ibid. Port, 
 cuftom-houfe, ware-houfes and bagnio, ibid. 
 New Cairo, ibid. Walls, now ruinous, ibid. 
 Gates, 30. Canal, ibid. Lakes in the mid- 
 dle of the City, ibid. Beautiful profpect they 
 yield when filled by the Nile and covered with 
 boats, and after, when dry and covered with 
 growing corn, ibid. Streets, ibid. Well 
 watched in the night, 31. Bezeftans, or ex- 
 changes, ibid. Houfes, their outward appear- 
 ance mean, ibid. Mofques, ibid. of Sul- 
 tan Haffan, a magnificent building, ibid. 
 of Kubbe-el-Azab, a very beautiful one, ibid. 
 Tailoun, 32. Antient palace, ibid. Fountain 
 of Treafure, or of Lovers, ibid. Mofque re- 
 iembling that at Mecca, ibid. Caftle, ibid. 
 Jofeph's hall, 33. Prifon, ibid. Divan, ibid. 
 Mint, ibid. Jofeph's well, 34. Caraffa, 35. 
 Tombs there, ibid. Univerfity conjectured, 
 to have been there, ibid. Ruins of convents, 
 ibid. Mofque of El-Imam-Shafei, ibid. Gar- 
 dens of Bafetin, ibid. Jews burial-place, ibid. 
 Mount Duise, and grottos, 36. Mofque of Sheik 
 1 Duise, ibid. Place for prayer, ibid. Burial-place, 
 and magnificent tombs, with mofques over 
 them, ibid. Bagnios, ibid. Canes, 37. Houfes, 
 ibid. Saloons for the women, and their con- 
 finement at Cairo, ibid. Magnificent houfe 
 faid to have been built by a Sultan, 37, Num- 
 ber of people fuppofed to be in Cairo, 38. 
 Inhabitants, a mixed people of many nations, 
 ibid. Trade and manufactures, 39. Themoft 
 confiderable place in Egypt for trade, ibid. 
 Arrival there from the cataracts, 129. - 
 
 arrival there from Mount Sinai, 1 60. . 
 
 departure thence for Rofetto, ibid. Cadis, 
 170. Kabani, ibid. Divifion of the city, 
 ibid. Prophecy, that it is to be taken by a 
 woman on horfeback, 192. AfTes univerfally 
 ufed there, and number fuppofed to be in the 
 city, 207. 
 Calig-el-Eberam, canal fo called, 56. 
 Cambyfes, Egypt conquered by him, 1. Hi's 
 army buried in the fands, in their expedition 
 to plunder the temple of Jupiter Ammon, 84, 
 Camels, their manner of travelling, feeding, etc. 
 
 131. In great danger if they fall, 141. 
 G g g g Wonder- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 wonderfully fitted for travelling in deferts,207. 
 Seldom kill'd for food, 20S. Method of pre- 
 paring them for the hot feafon, ibid. 
 
 Campion, one of the Mamaluke Kings, faid to 
 have ereifted the aqueduct at Cairo, 27 
 
 Canals, near Foua, 16. At Manfoura, 20. Of 
 Thabanea,2i. Of theKings, 22. AtCairo, 
 27, 30, etc. Of the pyramids, 56. Of Ta- 
 miea, ibid. At Arfinoe, 5S. Bahr Jofeph, 
 60, 64. Of Mceris, 64. OfSciout, 75, Of 
 Akmim, 76. Of Kena, 87. Of Kept, 88. 
 Of Trajan at Suez, 133. Intention of Sefo- 
 flris in making the canals of Egypt, 197. The 
 great advantage Egypt has received from them, 
 «49» ^5 2 
 
 Candia, antiently Crete, 160. Embarkation for 
 
 it from Rofetto, ibid. See Crete. 
 Canes, what, 37. At Cairo, ibid. At BuJac, 
 
 ibid. 
 
 Cannon, of an old fafhion, at Rofetto, 15 
 
 Canopic, branch of the Nile, 13, 16 
 
 Canopus fCana! of) 4, 6, 10. Whence it receives 
 
 its name, 13. Pillars for directing the way 
 
 near it, ib. 
 
 Capitals {'Egyptian _) 2 1 7, 2 1 8 . Conjedure about 
 their origin, 217 
 
 Captan, nature of that office, 133 
 
 Caraffa, fuburbs of Cairo, 35 
 
 Caravans, 55. Author travels along with one, 
 131, & feqq. Manner of travelling, ibid. & 
 fcqq. In danger of being robbed, ib. Drefs, 
 ceremonies, etc. of the pilgrims, 1S7. Cara- 
 van for Mecca, ibid. See Mecca. Trade car- 
 ried on, and number of people who travel in 
 the caravan, ibid. Proceffion to Mecca de- 
 fcribed, 261. Rout from Cairo to Mecca, 
 265 
 
 Carnack, part of antient Thebes, 90. See Thebes. 
 Ruins of a magnificent temple, ib. Encamp- 
 ment of the Sheiks, ib. 
 
 Caroon (Town of) 61. Conjecture about the rife 
 of the fable of Charon, 65. King of that 
 name, ftrange tradition about the keys of his 
 treafure, ibid. 
 
 Cajhifs, and Cafhiflics, 161 
 
 Cafiotis, 136 
 
 Caffius (Mount) 18 
 
 Cajiles, at Alexandria, 7. At Bikiere, ir. At 
 Rofetto, 15. At Damiata, 19. At Cairo, 
 ,25, 32. At the Labyrinth, 62. At Adje- 
 route, 132. OfShedur, 139. At Tor, 141, 
 
 142 
 
 Catacombs, at Alexandria, 9. At Saccara, 49. 
 Of the birds, ib. Near the pyramid of fteps, 
 53. Defcription and meafurcs, ib. Or the 
 birds defcr'ibed, 54 
 
 Catarafts, of the Nile, 121. People moftly black 
 there, ib. Appearance of thofe parts, ib. Ca- 
 taracts dcfcribed, ib. Author's voyage from 
 thence to Damiata, ib. fcf feqq. 
 
 Cateia, antient name of Tailoun, 32 
 
 Catharine (St.) 7, J44, 150- convent of. See 
 Sinai (Mount.) 
 
 Cats, held in veneration by the Turks, 209. In 
 antient times, death to kill them, ib. 
 
 Caufey, prodigious one made for bringing the Ma- 
 terials for building the pyramids, 42. At Sac- 
 cara, 49 
 
 Cephrenes, faid to have built the fecond pyramid 
 at Gize, 45 
 
 Ccrafies, Vipers fo call'd by the antients, 208. 
 
 Cerejia, 73 
 
 Chain, faid to have been ftretched acrofs the Nile 
 
 to flop a pafs, 1 14 
 Champ/a, antient name of the crocodile, 203. 
 Chaoufes, who, 1 66 
 Charaims, or EfTenes, who, 1 7 7 
 Charon, fable of, conjecture about its rife, 65. 
 Chemmes, 766 
 
 Cheops, King of Egypt, faid to have built one of 
 the pyramids, 42. ■ — daughter faid to have 
 proftituted herfelf by his command, 47, 
 
 Chcrkes, a body of foldiers fo call'd, 32 
 
 Chickens, hatched in ovens at Cairo, 38. Method 
 defcribed, 268 
 
 Chrijlians, tumults againfl them, how occafioned, 
 20. Forces defeated at Manfoura, ib. In 
 Cairo, 27. Village of, near Anrinoopolis, and 
 fuperftitious opinion of the Mahometans a- 
 bout it, ib. At Manfalouth, 75: At Sciout, 
 ib. At Akmim, 77. Great refort to Kept, 
 in times of perfecution, 88. At Nequade, 89. 
 Patent of Mahomet to them, 268 
 
 Cbrijlmas, Copti ceremonies at that time, 80. 
 Author's entertainment on that day, ib. 
 
 Cijlerns, feen under water, 2. Of Alexandria, G. 
 
 Cleopatra, 24 
 
 Cleopatris, conjectures about its fituation, 133, 
 Climate, of Egypt. See Egypt. 
 Clover, in Egypt, fupplies the place of grafs, 
 204. 
 
 Clyfma, 138. Conjecture about its fituation, ib. 
 
 Cola, 60 
 
 Codrickpan, hills fo called, 73 
 
 Coffin, golden one of Alexander the Great, 4. Of 
 
 the mummies, 232. Manner of painting diem, 
 
 etc. ib. See Mummies. 
 Coloquintida, 122 
 
 Cokjfus, in the lake Mceris, 65. AtAmara, 87. 
 At Carnack, 92, 93. Near Medinet Habou, 
 ioi. At Luxcrein, 107 
 
 Com-Ombo, the antient Ombos, 115. Ruins, 
 grand gate, etc. ib. Port Lafherrad, ib. Ac- 
 cidents there, ib. People fubject to no go- 
 vernment, ib. 
 
 Conful (Englifh) his entrance into the city of 
 Cairo, 17. AtCairo, no Chriftians but con- 
 fuls allow'dto ride on horfes, 191. 
 
 Convents, of St. Michael, near Cairo, 25. Of 
 Dervifhes at Cafiaraline, 29. Or Derviihes at 
 CarafFa, 35. Of Francifcans at Cairo, 38. 
 Of Francifcans at Fakinie, 58. At the lake 
 Mceris, 65. At Cafr Caroon, 66. Of St. An- 
 thony, 70. Of St. George at Bibeh, 71. 
 At Jebcl-Ockfeir, 73. Obliged to entertain 
 all comers, ib. At Antinoopolis, ib. At Man- 
 falouth, cut out of the rock, 75. At Akmim, 
 77. Of the martyrs, 78. Of Dermadoud, 
 ib. Others near, 79. Of Ernbefhnuda, ib. 
 Of Der-Embabfhai, ib. Of Der-el-Hadid, 
 and Der-Embabfhag, Si. Of Girge, 82. Of 
 Francifcans there, ib. Of Francifcans at Fur- 
 Ihout, 84. At Cous, 91. Of the Martyrs, 
 112. Of St. Anthony and St. Paul, 128. Of 
 St. Geminiani, 129. Of mount Sinai, at Cairo, 
 130. Of mount Sinai, at Tor, 141. Of 
 mount Sinai, at mount Sinai, 143. Of the 
 forty martyrs, 144. Great convent of mount 
 Sinai. See Sinai (Mount.) 
 
 Coptis, 17. In the defens of St 'Macarius, ib. 
 Chriftians, 20. Convents near Babylon, 25. 
 Churches in old Cairo, 27. At Faiume, 58. 
 
 Great 
 
INDEX, 
 
 299 
 
 Great numbers at Arfmoe, 59. At Akmim, 
 77. Ceremonies at Chriftmas, 80. Firft rife 
 of the name, 88. Very ufeful in Egypt, 176". 
 Their wurfhip, etc. ib. Peculiar cuftom with 
 regard to their children, 177. Hatred of the 
 Greeks and Europeans, ib. Inferiors kept in 
 great fubjection by fuperiors, 182. Whence fup- 
 pofed to have received their name, 244. Their 
 averfion to the Franks and Greeks, and caufe 
 of it, ib. How they came to have authority 
 in Egypt, ib. Patriarch, how eledted, 245. 
 Their ceremonies refemble thofe of the Greek 
 church, ib. Coptic, the antient language of 
 Egypt, and how it came to be corrupted, ib. 
 Priefts, many of them cannot read their liturgy, 
 ib. Several of their religious ceremonies, ib. 
 & feqq. Practife fafting much, 256. Times 
 of their fafts, ib. Whimfical method of ob- 
 taining the patriarch's leave to eat eggs in lent, 
 246. Marriages and divorce, ib. Confecra- 
 tion of holy oil, ib. Baptifm, ib. et 247. Ce- 
 remonies at Chriftmas defcribed, ibid, feqq. 
 
 Coral, 135, 141, 142 
 
 Corban-B'iram (Feaft) T89 
 
 Corinthian order in architecture, conjecture about 
 its original, 2 1 5 
 
 Cornices, in the Egyptian architecture, 219. 
 
 Coror.del, 1 37 
 
 Cofmas and Damianus (SS,) 149 
 Cojfeir (Port of ) 136 
 Coum-el-Arab (Hi!!) 71 
 Coitphe character, the antient Arabic, 31 
 d?ftj-(PortofJ 89. Amiierable town, ib. Antiently 
 Little Apollinopolis, ib. Remains of a tem- 
 ple there, ib. Church and convent, ib. 
 Crete (Labyrinth of) 61. By whom, and after 
 
 what model laid to have been built, ib. 
 Crocodiles, worfhipped at Arfinoe, and the city 
 call'd The city of crocodiles, 59. Tombs in 
 the Labyrinth, 61. Seldom go below the con- 
 vent of St. Anthony, 70. Superftitious man- 
 ner of accounting for that, ib. People of Ten- 
 tyra, enemies and deftroyers of them, 85. City 
 of, conjectures about it, 112. Very nume- 
 rous nearOmbus, 114. Worfhipped at Om- 
 
 bus, 
 
 Tame there, ib. Said to have 
 
 no tongue, 202. Eggs, and manner of hatch- 
 ing, 203. Opinion of the Ichneumon's kil- 
 ling them, ib. Account of their manner of 
 catching their prey, ib. Method of killing 
 them, ib. What places they frequent, ib. 
 Agreement between the antient and modern 
 names of that animal, ib. 
 
 Cvjloms of Egypt, 172, el feqq, 
 
 Cyale tree. See Acacia. 
 
 DMT) ALUS. See Crete. 
 Dahab, conjectured to be the antient Ezion- 
 geber, 137 
 
 Damiaia, its inhabitants, etc. 18. Road for 
 fhips, 19. Situation, ib. Cuftom-houfe, and 
 tower, ib. Character of the people, ib. A- 
 verfion to Europeans, and caule, ib. Taken by 
 the Chriftians, ib. Surrendred to the Egyp- 
 tian?, ib. Danger of appearing in European 
 drefs there, ib. Inftance of the villany of the 
 inhabitants, 20. Trade, ib. 
 
 Darius, canal of the King% probably carried on 
 by him, 22 
 
 Dafiiour, 49 
 
 Date-tree, 196. Notion that ropes and bafkets 
 made of its bark and leaves do not communi- 
 cate the plague, ib. 
 
 Dathan and Abiram, tradition about the place 
 where they were fwallowed up, 145 
 
 Davara, Pyramids of, 66 
 
 Delta, one of the divifions of Egypt, 1. Adds 
 
 a great beauty to the profpect from Rofetto, 14 
 Dembeh, a kind of hornet fo called, 158 
 Dequahalie, the fame with Manfoura, 161 
 Der-Abou-Ennis, convent fo called, 75 
 Dsrb-Ejenef, Derb-Hajar, etc. roads from Cairo 
 
 to the northern coafts of the Red fea, 1 54 
 DsrbAe-Jah, road fo called, and why, 145 
 Der-el-Hadid (Convent of) 81 
 Der-el- Hammer , 159. Whimfical piece of fuper- 
 
 ftition of the Mahometans there, ib. 
 Der-Embabjhag (Convent of) 81 
 Der-Embabjhai (Convent of) 79 
 Dermadoud (Convent of) cut out of the rock, 78. 
 
 Water of, fuppofed to be the only true ipring 
 
 in Egypt, 198 
 Dertin (Village of) 55 
 
 Dervi/hes (Convent of) at Caflaraline, 29. Their 
 
 manner of life, ib. Dancing ones, ib. et 178,. 
 
 Distinctions, drefs, etc. ib. Regarded for their 
 
 Poverty, 193 
 Diana (Oracle of) near Rofetto, 16. Antiently 
 
 called Bubaftis, 22. Temple at Benalhafiar> 
 
 ib. 
 
 Diar-Frangi, country fo called, and why, 142. 
 Diodorus Sicultts, his opinion of the purpofe for 
 
 which the labyrinth was built, 61. Accounc 
 
 of the fepulchres of the Kings of Thebes, 98. 
 
 Of Statues, etc. at Luxerein, 107 
 Diofpolis, Eaft part of Thebes fo called in the 
 
 time of Strabo, 91 
 Divan, at Cairo, 33. Of B;ys, 162 
 Dogs, worfhipped at Cynopolis, and why, 71 
 Domes (Itle of) 84 
 Dome trees, 80 
 
 Doors in the Egyptian architecture, 218 
 
 Dragoman Aga, what, 165 
 
 Ducks, romantic account of a method of catch- 
 ing them, 2 10 
 
 Duisi (Mount) near Cairo, 35. Grottos, ib. Ex- 
 tenfive profpect from thence, ib. 
 
 EAG L E-flones, 17 
 Earthen-ware (Floats of) defcribed, 84, 87 
 Eaftsm branch of the Nile, 1 8 
 Ebadie (Village of) 73 
 Education (Egyptian) 180 
 
 Egypt, its government, 1 . Divifion, ib. Length, 
 2. Capital, ib. When it appears in its great- 
 eft beauty, 16. River or torrent of, 18. An- 
 tiently called Mefr, 25. Architecture irregu- 
 lar, etc. 114. See Architecture. Bounds ac- 
 cording to Strabo and Ptolemy, 118. Fewel 
 burnt by the common people, 123. Conje- 
 ctures about its extent, etc. 136. Govern- 
 ment, 161. et feqq. Prefent divifion into up- 
 per, lower and middle Egypt, ib. Sub-divi- 
 fion into provinces, ib. Lower Egypt, its ex- 
 tent, ib. Number of Sangialics or Cafhiflics 
 in it, ib. Middle Egypt, 162. Number of 
 provinces in it, ib. Upper Egypt, ib. Num- 
 ber of provinces formerly faid to have been in 
 
 it, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 it, ib, Many of them now governed by A- 
 rabs, ib. All Egypt governed by a Pafha 
 under the Grand Signor, ib. All the Lands 
 in Egypt originally belonged to the Grand Sig- 
 nor, ib. Pafha's Caia, 163. Sheik Bellet, ib. 
 Authority in Egypt not to be kept without 
 fuitable conduct, ib. Sangiak of upper Egypt, 
 164, Hiftorical accounts and conjectures a- 
 bout the changes in the conftitution of Egypt 
 by Sultan Selim, etc. ib. Millitary bodies not 
 greatly in fubjection to the Porte, 165. E- 
 rnir-Hadge, ib. Tefterdar, ib. Guards of 
 city and country, ib. Walla, ib. MetefTib, 
 ib. Government of villages, 1 66. Caima- 
 cam, ib. Military, ib. Spahis or horfe, ib. 
 Slaves, 167. Infantry, ib. Janizaries, ib. et 
 feqq. Azabs, 162. Great authority of thefe 
 two bodies, ib. Different caufes of tumults 
 in Egypt, and at Con flan ti nop] e, ib. Egypt 
 obliged to furnifh the Grand Signor with three 
 thouiand foldiers every three years, 170. Ad- 
 miniftration of juftice, 171, et feqq. Cadi- 
 lifkier, ib. Nakib, ib. Cadis in Cairo, ib. 
 Kabani, ib. Great veneration paid to thofe 
 who profefs the law, ib. Decifions precarious, 
 but expeditious, 171. Sheiks of Mofques, ib. 
 Relations of Mahomet, their privileges, ib. 
 Revenues of the Grand Signor, ib. et feqq. 
 Landed intereff, 172. Conjectures about the 
 Conftitution of Egypt in former times, ib. 
 Manner of buying lands, and frauds in it, ib. 
 Lands belonging to Mecca, ib. Cuftoms, ib. 
 et feqq. Poll-tax, 173. Trade, ib. et feqq. 
 Export and import, ib. Manufactures, 174. 
 That of linen now funk, ib Mechanic arts 
 chiefly in the hands of Chriftians, ib. Egyp- 
 tian pebbles, how wrought, 175. Red leather, 
 ib. Mechanic artifts in Cairo inferior to thofe of 
 Conffantinople, ib. Sal Armoniac, ib. Money, 
 ib. Weights and meafures, ib. Caravans, and 
 their trade, ib. See Caravans. Religion, ib. et 
 feqq. Coptis, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, 177. 
 Inhabitants, ib. Filaws, ib. Arabs, ib. E- 
 gyptians a lazy people, ib. Conjecture about 
 the original of their mythology, ib. Temper 
 malicious and envious, ib. Sufpicious of tra- 
 vellers, ib. Turks, who fo called by way of 
 diftinction, 178. Dervifh.es, ib. See Der~ 
 •vijhes. Policy of the Egyptians, ib. Some 
 inftances of it, 179, 180. Education, 180. Be- 
 lief of predefti nation, and its effect upon their, 
 conduct, ib. Avarice, 181, Not afraid of 
 the Plague, ib. Devotion, ib. Pray much 
 in public, at vifits, etc. ib. Manners and cu- 
 ftoms, ib. Do not grieve much for the lofs of 
 relations, ib. Fond of their children, ib. Ufe 
 heating things to chear them, ib. Notion of 
 magic, and of the evil eye, ib. Drefs, 189. 
 et feqq. Conjecture about the original of the 
 furplice, ib. Papouches, 190. Green only to 
 be worn by the relations of Mahomet, 191. 
 Drefs of the women, ib. See Women. Coffee- 
 houfes, 193. Frugal in their living, ib. Great 
 men extravagant in the number of their flaves 
 and horfes, ib. Horfes, their qualities, ib. 
 People, not well-favoured, ftovenly, fwarthy, 
 etc. ib. Mamaluke drefs, ib. Architecture, 
 194. See Architecture. Climate, 195. Dan- 
 ger of catching colds, ib. Rains, at what fea- 
 fons, ib. Thunders and earthquakes, ib. Su- 
 perftitious opinion about them, ib. Winds, 
 3 
 
 ib. Duft raifed in an extraordinary manner by 
 the winds, ib. Difeafes, 196. Strange effect 
 afcribed to frights, ib. Soil, ib. Petrifactions, 
 ib. Caufes of the fruitfulnefs of Egypt, ib. 
 Antient ftate of the foil, ib. Water, 198. 
 See Water. Nile. See Nile. Method of wa- 
 tering the country by the canals, 199. A 
 defcent from the river, ibid. Not practi- 
 cable to water fome parts of Egypt by labour, 
 and why, 200. Management of the canals, 
 201. Vegetables, ib. et feqq. Egypt, of old 
 the granary of the Roman empire, and now 
 of the Turkifh, 204. Clover fown infteadof 
 grafs, ib. Two harvefts in the year, ib. The 
 ieveral forts of grain produced there, ib. Di- 
 verfe other vegetables, 205. Trees, ib. To 
 be queftioned, if there are any of the natural 
 growth of the country, ib. Lift of trees in 
 Egpyt, ib. et feqq. Animals, 207, et feqq. 
 Reptiles, 208. Birds, 209, et feqq. Manner 
 of fitting upon the hams in Egypt, 211. E- 
 gyptians, inventors of arts, but too opi- 
 nionative to learn the improvements made 
 in them by the Greeks, etc. 212, 215. An- 
 tient weights, 214. Antient private build- 
 ings, 220. Suppofed to have been very mean, 
 ib. No remains of them to be feen now, ib. 
 Mythology. See Mythology. Hieroglyphics, 
 See Hieroglyphics y and Writing. Lower E- 
 gypt, before the times of Menes, fuppofed 
 to have been a marfh, till drained by the ca- 
 nals, 249, Soil of, conjectures about its rife 
 from the annual inundation of the Nile, 
 250, 251. Bifhoprics of, catalogue of them, 
 279, et. feqq. Plants of, lift of them, 281, 
 et feqq. 
 
 Ein-Moufeh. See Springs of -Mofes. 
 
 El-Berbi^ the antient Abydus, 83. Temple there 
 entirely demolifhed, ib. Once the fecond city 
 in the Thebaid, ibid. 
 
 Elecat, a people fo called, 137 
 
 Elephantine (Ifle of) 2, 117. Extent, ib. Tem- 
 ple to Cnuphis, ib. Remains of a fmall tem- 
 ple there ftill, ib. Statue, ib. Remains of a 
 grand gate, and a great wall, 118. Room 
 cut out of one ftone, ib. 
 
 Eleu/is t 11 
 
 El-Fora(lac (Canal of) 160 
 El-Gourney (Village of) 78 
 
 Elias (Vale of) 146. Chapel dedicated to him, 
 ib. Grotto in it, and tradition about it, ib. 
 
 EUJba (Chapel dedicated to) 146 
 
 Elmenfhieh Da/hour, village, 49 
 
 Eloua (Province of) 162. Peculiar law there 
 with regard to ftrangers, ib. 
 
 Embalming the dead, whence fuppofed to have 
 taken rife, 226. Three different manners of 
 it, 230, et feqq. Antients laid to have pre- 
 ferved the features, etc. by this art, 231. Em- 
 balming beafts and birds, whence that cuftom 
 fuppofed to have taken rife, 233. See Mum- 
 mies. 
 
 Embefhnuda (Convent of) 79 
 Emeralds (Mountain of) 89 
 Emir-Hadge > his office, 165 
 Emperors (Eaftern) 1 
 Encampments of Arabian governors, 75 
 Englijh fhips employed in the coffee trade of Fe- 
 feca, 134 
 
 Entablature^ in the Egyptian architecture, 218 
 Epifteme (Mount) 143. Whence fo called, 147. 
 
 Ruins 
 
i n r 
 
 Ruins of a nunnery there, ib. Hill Araone, 
 
 and tradition about it, ib. 
 Erment, the antient Hermonthis, no. Temple 
 
 of Apollo there, ib. Ruins, ib. Jebelin, 
 
 ib. Aphroditopolis, ib. 
 Efhbon, 22 
 
 Efne, a confiderable town, in. Conftitution of 
 that town, ib. Temples, ib. et feqq. Con- 
 jectures about them, ib. Defcription of them, 
 ib. Suppofed to be the fame with Strabo's 
 city of crocodiles, 112. Convent of the Mar- 
 tyrs, ib. Tombs, ib. Quarries of porphyry 
 and granite, ib. Remains of walls near, and 
 conjectures about them, 113 
 
 Efououd, 70 
 
 Ejfenes, or Charaims, who, 177 
 
 Etfou, great Apollinopolis, 113. Inhabitants e- 
 nemies to the crocodile, ib. Temple, ib. Ac- 
 cident that happened there, ib. 
 
 Ethiopia, its bounds, 11 8. Mountains of, upon 
 whatoccafion forfaken by men and beafts, 199 
 
 Eunojlus, 2 
 
 Europeans, their manner of life at Cairo, 38 
 Ezra, a manufcript of the bible faid to have 
 been written by . him, and remarkable tradi- 
 tion about it, 28 
 
 F 
 
 FAIUME, fuppofed to ftand upon the fite of 
 antient Arfinoe, 55. SztArfinoe. Calhif of, 
 his character, ib. Extent, inhabitants, manu- 
 factures, etc. 58. The refidence of feveral 
 Sheiks, ib. Convent of Francifcans, ib. Copti 
 church, ib. Vineyards, ib. "Wine, etc. made 
 there, ib. Rain and hail, 59. Indifferent 
 treatment there, ib. 
 Fafara, 160. Salt lake there, ib. 
 Fcft, Ramefan, 72. Falling much practifed 
 
 by the Coptis, 346, et feqq. 
 Feafi (Turkifh) called Biram, 85 
 Ferijee, what, 189 
 Fefeca (Trade of) 134 
 Fetne, a very fruitful ifland, 71 
 Figs (Cape of) 3 
 Fila-ws, who, 177 
 Fire (Ufe of) how fir ft found, 223 
 Firmans, or pafports, copies of fome from the 
 
 Grand Signor, 1^0, et feqq. 
 Fifh of the Nile, 202. None of the European 
 kinds in the Nile, befides eels and mullet, ib. 
 No fort of (hell-fifh in the Nile, ib. See Hip- 
 popotamus. Names of diverfe fifties, ib. La- 
 tous, conjectures about it, ib. Gurgur, faid to 
 enter the mouth of the crocodile, and to kill 
 him, ib. 
 
 Floats, of earthen ware, etc. 84, 121 
 Foua, 1 6 
 
 Fofthath, antient name of Cairo, 26 
 Fountain of treafures or of lovers, at Cairo, 32 
 Francifcans (Convents of) at Cairo, 38. At 
 
 Faiume, 58. Plundered by the inhabitants, 
 
 ib. At Akmin, 77. At Girge, 82. At 
 
 Furfhout, 84 
 Franks, ail Europeans fo called in the eaft, 55. 
 
 Thought, by the Egyptians, to be very wealthy, 
 
 ib. Notion the Arabs have, of their defign 
 
 in travelling to thofe countries, 85 
 French fhips employed in the coffee trade from 
 
 Fefeca to Gedda, 134. 
 Furfljout, Arrival at it, 84. Poor and ruinous, 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 E X. 
 
 ib. Place of refidence of a great Sheik, 
 ib. Francifcan convent, ib. Converliitton 
 with the Sheik, 85. His garden, ib. Re- 
 ception by him, on return from the cataracts, 
 
 124- - , ; - 
 
 G. 
 
 r^AH (Hills of) 137 
 Galakiion, 147 
 
 Galleys on the Nile, defcribed, 16 
 
 Galofana, ruins vifible under water there, 127 
 
 Garbieh (Province of ) 20, 161 
 
 Gardens, at Caffaraline, 29. At Bafetin, 35. Of 
 Sciout, 75. Of the Sheik of Furfhout, 85 
 
 Gates, beautiful one at Antinoopolis, 73. Grand 
 oneatAmara, 86. FTundred gates of Thebes, 
 91. Ruinous ones there, 92, et feqq. Near 
 Medinet-Habou, 101. At Elephantine, 118 
 
 Gaita-Kiebire, fuppofed the fame with the antient 
 PafTalon, 76. Ruins of a temple there, ib. 
 
 Gaza, 1 8 
 
 Getieheieh, 137 
 
 Geminiani (St.) convent of, much reforted to by 
 
 Chriftians, 129 
 George (St.) church of, and pretended relicks of 
 
 that faint, 28. Convents of 55, 71. 
 Gerod (village), 60 
 Gewoubee (Mount), 138 
 
 Giants, tradition of punifhments inflicted on them 
 by Ofiris, 227 
 
 Girge (Bey of) 1. Town, capital of Said, or 
 upper Egypt, 82. Convent of, ib. Of Fran- 
 cifcans there, ib. Danger they live in, 83. 
 Mercenary behaviour of a Turk there, ib. 
 Author's reception from the Bey, on his return 
 from the cataracts, 124 
 
 Gize, 25. Pyramids of, 41. See Pyramids. 
 
 Gods (Egyptian) hiftory of, 222, et feqq. See 
 Mythology. 
 
 Gold, forbidden to be worn in Egypt, except by 
 
 the Women, 208 
 Gofoen (Land of) conjecture, that it was the 
 
 country about Heliopolis, 24. Same with Ra- 
 
 mefes, ib. 
 
 Goumenos, nature of that ecclefiaftical dignity, 
 152 
 
 Gournoti, part of Thebes fo called, 97 
 Grain, fundry kinds of, in Egypt, 204 
 Granaries (Jofeph's) at Cairo, 26. In upper E- 
 
 gypt, 204 
 Grand Signor. See Signor. 
 Granite mountains, and quarries, 137, 140. 
 Grafs, none in Egypt, and how fupplied, 204 
 Greeks, at Suez, 133. At Tor, 141 
 Grottos, near Cairo, 36". At Metrahenny, con- 
 jectured to have been fepulchres, 40. Near 
 Codrickfhan, fuppofed to have been the fame, 
 73. At Archcmounain, 74. Sepulchral, at 
 El-Gournou, 78. Near Menftiieh, 82. Near 
 Biban-el-Meluke, 97. At Jebel-Hamam-Pha- 
 raone, 139. At Mount Sinai, 146 
 Groves, 20, 141 
 
 H. 
 
 T ~\/ijar-Silcih\ ruins, grottos, etc. there, 114. 
 ■LJ- River Nile very narrow there, ib. Origi- 
 nal of the name, ib. Accident there, ib. 
 Hamatibihara, 1 54 
 
 Hamrone (Port of) 136. Conjectures about it, ib. 
 H h h h Hamfttn 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Hamfeen feafon, what, 134. winds, 159 
 
 Harach, or poll-ax in Egypt, 137 
 Haraminteleh, ruins there, and conjectures about 
 them, 131 
 
 Harems, or women's apartments, 183. See Wo- 
 men. 
 Harlots* 48, 67 
 
 Harpocrates (Statue of) brought from the eaft, de- 
 
 fcribed, 213, 214 
 Harvefis, two in the year in Egypt, 204 
 Haffan (Sultan) mofque of, the nobleft inCairo, 3 1 
 Hauhebi, mountains, 154 
 Haitm, what, 204 
 
 Hawks (City of) 113,124. Ethiopian tiered one, 
 120. Kind in Egypt not ravenous, 209. Held 
 in veneration by the Turks, ib. Of old, death 
 to kill them, ib. Fabulous account of a lega- 
 cy left for their fupport in Cairo, ib. Their 
 bodies, and thofe of the Ibis, chiefly found 
 among the mummies of birds, ib. 
 
 Hebran, fountain, 142 
 
 Hele, village near Cairo, 17 
 
 Helena (Sr.) tower built by her on Mount Sinai, 
 etc. 146 , ' . 
 
 lleliopolis (Antient city) now Mararea, 23. Sup- 
 poled to be the On of the fcriptures, ib. Sun 
 worfhipped there, and the bull Mnevis, 
 Fabulous account of its foundation, ib. Friefts 
 famous for their learning, ib. College, ib. 
 Herodotus inflructed in the Egyptian learning 
 there, ib. Apartments of Plato and Eudoxus 
 there, fliewn to Strabo, ib. Learning removed 
 from thence before Strabo*s time, ib. Reafon- 
 able to fuppofe, that the country about it is 
 the Gofhen of the Scriptures, 24 
 
 Heptanomis, one of the divifions of Egypt, 1 
 
 Heracleopolis* 20 
 
 Hercules^ conjecture about him, 71. Inundation 
 of the Nile flopped by him, and fable fuppoled 
 to have taken rife from thence, 225 
 
 Heredy (Serpent) 76. Particular account of it, 
 and of the fu per (lit ions relating to it, 125 
 
 Hermits, near Akmim, etc. 78 
 
 Hcrmopolis, 16, 74. Caflleof, 74 
 
 Hermonthis . See Erment. 
 
 Herodotus, whtxe inflructed in the Egyptian learn- 
 ing, 23. His account of the cauley near the 
 Pyramids, and of the pyramids, 25. Of the life 
 for which the labyrinth was built, 61. Of the 
 pyramids, etc. near it, 62. Of Akmim, the 
 
 antient Panopolis, 76. Of the rife of the 
 
 Nile, 250 
 
 Hieroglyphics, 21, 23,32, 91, 107. Of the an- 
 tient Egyptians, account of, by Diodorus Si- 
 cuhis, 228. Conjectures about them, ib. 
 feqq. To be fuppoled that Moil's did not ute 
 them, ib. Whether they may be fuppoled to 
 have flood for words or tor things, ib. & feqq. 
 
 Hills, artificial, at Dafhour, 56. Entirely of oy- 
 fler-OieUs, ib. 
 
 Hippodromits, 10 
 
 Hippopotamus, fifh fo calPd, 202. Accounts of, 
 and conjectures, ib. Said to bleed itfelf for its 
 health, ib. Said to have been once worfhip- 
 ped in Egypt, ib. 
 
 Hoar, 74. 
 
 Holy bujh (Chapel of the) 143 
 
 Holy family, tradition about them, 24. Said to 
 have been in a church at Cairo, 27. Said to 
 have itaid fome time atNarach, 75 
 
 Horeb (Mount) 143 
 4 
 
 Horfes, no Chriftian allow'd to ride on, at Cairo, 
 except the confuls, 18. Of Egypt, their quali- 
 ties, 193, 208 
 Horus, his genealogy, etc. 227 
 Hou (Town of) conjectured to be the fame with 
 
 little Diofpolis of Ptolemy, 85 
 Houfe of Pharaoh, hill fo called, 140 
 Honfcs in Cairo, 31. Of the great men, 3 7 
 Hypfele, of the antients, conjecture about it, 75 
 
 I. 
 
 J MI, (Vale of) See Sinai (Mount.) 
 Janitzar Ago.. See Janizaries. 
 Janizaries, 9. Are the guards of the city of 
 Cairo, 165. Full account of them, 167, et 
 feqq. Degrees of fuperiority among them, ib. 
 Janitzar Aga, or general, his office, 168. 
 Their great power, 169. Manner of depofing 
 the Pafhas, ib. In Conltantinople have no 
 Divan, 170. At Cairo extremely infolent, ib. 
 Manner of exprelling their dilTatis fact ion, 184 
 Ibis (Bird) held in great veneration by the E- 
 gyptians, and why, 209. Its body, and that 
 of the hawk chiefly found among the embalm- 
 ed birds, ib. Mummy of one defcribed, ib. et 
 
 fm- 
 
 Jchneumon, laid to deftroy the crocodile, 202. 
 
 Conjectures about it, 207 
 Jebel-Duife, 32 
 Jebele, 137 
 
 Jebele, or mountain, Garib, 142. — Hamam-Pha- 
 raone, 139. ■ — Le Marah, ib. Salt fpring 
 there, ib. Conjecture about it, ib. — Le Sany, 
 hills fo called, 1 58. — Macatham, 131. — Me- 
 feca, 142. > — Mofes, mount Sinai fo called by 
 the Arabs, 143. — Moflneum, hill fo called, 
 and whence, 142. — Ockfeu-,73. — Te,i37, 
 159. — Zeit, 142. Healing waters there, ib. 
 
 Jcdda, 134 
 
 Jehtfi, Mount) near old Cairo, 2 5 
 
 Jemen, the antient name of Arabia Foclix, 134 
 
 Jcrdacn, animal fo called, thought by the author 
 to be the Ichneumon, 132. See alio 207 
 
 Jeremiah, the prophet, tradition of his having 
 been in a fynagogue at Cairo, 27 
 
 Jerufalem, departure from Cairo to go thither, 129 
 
 Jews, great number of them in Alexandria, 2. 
 Their burial-place at Cairo, 35. Manner of 
 burying their dead, ib. in Egypt, An- 
 gular cuftom among them, 177. Synagogues 
 in Cairo, ib. Diltinct feet among them, ib. 
 
 Il-Hcrem-el-Kebcre-el-Barieh, great pyramid at 
 - Saccara fo called, 51 
 
 Il-Hercm-il-Kieber-el-Koubli, name of another py- 
 ramid, 52 
 
 Jonas, feaft of, and feverc fait before it, 246 
 
 Indigo, method of making it, 204 
 
 Infcriptions, at Elephantine, 118. Upon the 
 rocks in the way to mount Sinai, 142. Upon 
 mount Sinai, 146. Upon the obelifk at Con- 
 ltantinople, 229. Copies offoine Greek ones 
 found in Egypt, 275, et feqq. 
 
 John (St.) convent of, 73 
 
 the Baptift, chapel of, 145 
 
 Climax, prifon of, 149 
 
 Jofeph*s granaries at Cairo, 26. — — hnll 
 there, and delightful profpect from thence, 32, 
 
 33. faid to have been impiifoned in the 
 
 jail at Cairo, ib, well, 34, 198 
 
 Ifis, temple of, at Baal-bait, 21. At TeDtyra, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 86. Place named from her cutting off a lock 
 of her hair, upon hearing of the death of Ofi- 
 ris, 87. Statue of, brought from Egypt, de- 
 fcribed, 211, 212. Bull of, defcribed, 213. 
 Proceedings upon the death of Ofiris, 226. 
 Prudent behaviour after his death, and honours 
 the queens of Egypt, and her fex in general, 
 received on her account, 227. Where buried, 
 ib. 
 
 Ifrael (Children of) fome account of their jour- 
 ney out of the land of Egypt, and conjectures 
 about the places they palled, 154, et feqq. 
 
 Jupiter Amnion, his oracle, 2. Army of Camby- 
 fes buried in the fands, in their expedition to 
 plunder his temple, 84. 
 
 K. 
 
 KABANI, nature of his office, 170 
 Kalat-eUKebfh, palace in Cairo fo called, 32 
 Kalkafendas, extracts from his account of the rife 
 
 of the Nile, 252, et feqq. 
 Kalioub, province of, 161 
 
 Kebafeh, between old and new Cairo, now ruin- 
 ous, 25 
 
 Keid-Bey, burial-place of, near Cairo, 36, 154 
 
 Kena, fuppofed the fame with antient Cosne or 
 Neapolis, 87. Canal, ib. Manufacture of 
 earthen ware, ib. 
 
 Kept, the antient Coptos, 87. Whence fo cal- 
 led, ib. By whom inhabited, ib. Trade ib. 
 Situation according to the antients, and con- 
 jectures, etc. ib. et 88. Historical account 
 of the Trade there, ib. The refort of the 
 Christians in time of perfecution, ib. Destroy- 
 ed by Dioclefian, and why, ib. Remains of 
 antiquity there, ib. Lake and canal, ib. Bridges, 
 farcophagufes, medals, statues of earthen ware, 
 rock crystal, precious stones, root or refufe of 
 the emerald, etc. 89 
 
 Keys, of the treasures of king Caroon, strange tra- 
 dition about them, 65 
 
 Kings, canal of, by whom probably begun and 
 carried on, 22. Twelve kings of Egypt, the 
 labyrinth fuppofed to have been built for them 
 to meet in, 61 
 
 KifUr-Aga, his office, 172 
 
 Ktcube d-Mcnflmh, pyiamid fo called, 53 
 
 Kubbe-el-Azab, beautiful mofque at Cairo, fo cal- 
 led, 3 1 
 
 L. 
 
 LAbyrinth, 6t. Temple or, ib. Ruins there, 
 ib. Ufe it was built for, and by whom, ib. 
 Opinions of Diodorus, Strabo, and Pomponius 
 Mela, ib. Three thoufand rooms univerfally 
 agreed to have been in it, ib. Daedalus faid to 
 have built that or Crete after its model, ib. 
 Tombs of the kings in it, ib. No perfon al- 
 lowed to enter the apartment where they were, 
 ib. Tombs of the crocodiles in it, ib. Lake 
 near it, ib. Several buildings, etc. near it de- 
 fcribed, 62. Accounts of the antients of py- 
 ramids near it, ib. Defcriprion, meafur.-5, 
 conjectures, etc. ib. et feqq. 
 Lacfor. See Luxereia. 
 Lmfr, (Hill) 158 
 
 Lakes, fait one at Aboukir, ir. Brulos, 16. 
 Beautiful ones in the city of Cairo, 30. Near 
 Metrahenny, and conjectures about them, 40. 
 Of the labyrinth, 61, Of Sciout, 75. Of 
 Oafis, 84. At Kept, 88. Of the Pilgrims, 
 132. Of Suez, 134 
 
 Lares t 213 
 
 Lafierrad, port of, 115 
 Laticbea, 20 
 
 Latomia, (Ifle) 15. Is divided into two iflanda 
 
 when the north-weft wind blows, ib. 
 Latopolis, 111 
 
 Lotus (Fifh) where worfhipped, in, 202 
 Laws, faid to have been delivered by the kings of 
 Egypt from a pyramid at Saccara, 50. Great 
 refpect paid to people of that profelfion in E- 
 gypt, 170 
 Leontopolis, now Onias, 22 
 Letters, copies of fome in the eastern ftyle, 272, 
 etfeqq. 
 
 Lewis, the ninth of France, faid to have built a 
 castle near Damiata, 19. Made prifoner, and 
 how ranfomed, ib. 
 Linen, of Egypt, manufacture of, now funk, 174 
 
 Lochias, 2 
 
 Lower Egypt. See Egpyt. 
 
 Luxerein, or Lacfor, 106. Temple there,^. Sepul- 
 chre ofOfymanduas, ib. Statues, ib. Obeliiks, 
 hieroglyphics, fculptures and conjectures about 
 them, ib. ColofTal statues, ib. Infcriptions 
 upon one of them, 108. Library and Infcrip- 
 tions, etc. ib. 
 
 M. 
 
 Jy^^ramw, (St.) deftrt of, 17. Church of,. 
 
 Macedon, the companion of Ofiris, tradition a- 
 
 bout him, 71 
 Madnefs, superstitious notion, about a cure for it, 
 27. Mad people held in great veneration by 
 the Mahometans, 193 
 Madreporte, what, 135, 141 
 Mahalla, port of, near Manfoura, 20. Capital 
 
 of the province Garbieh, ib. 
 Maharojhy, whimfical utenfil fo called, 197 
 Mahomet, his relations buried near Cairo, 36. 
 Print of his foot faid to be at the mofque Saro- 
 nebi, 55. The fame pretended to be at a 
 mofque near Damafcus, ib. Abfurd tradition 
 about his camel, 146. Stone where he is faid 
 to have fat, 148. Traditions about his birth, 
 etc. ib. His relations, their privileges, tfi. 
 None but they allowed to wear green, 191. 
 Copy of his patent to the monks of mount Si- 
 nai, and to all Christians in general, 268 et feqq. 
 Mahometans, their religion, not inclining to idola- 
 try, 126. Men prohibited to wear ornaments 
 of gold, but on certain conditions, 174. Me- 
 thod of evading that law, ib. Meanest of 
 them think themfelves fuperior to any Chri- 
 stian, 181. Uery unmannerly, ib. Fast cal- 
 led Ramefan. See Ramefan. White their 
 proper drefs, 191. Veneration for mad peo- 
 ple, 193. 
 Malakas, what, 59 
 
 Mallei, an abstract from his account of the pyra- 
 mids, 234 
 
 Mamelukes , their government in Egypt, 1. Tow- 
 er near Damiata fuppofed to have been huilt 
 by them, 19. At Cairo, 3S. Their drefs, 
 193. Architecture of their times in Egypt, 
 good, 194 
 
 Alanfaloutb, 74. Ruins there, ib. Suppofcd to 
 be the lame with Lycopolis of the antients, 75. 
 Defcripfion of it, ib. Tradition that the Holy- 
 family itaid fbmetime there, jb. 
 
 Man- 
 
I N D 
 
 Manfourah* iS. Conjectured to be the fame 
 with antient Tanis, the Zoan of Scripture, 20. 
 Holy war there, ib. Beauty of the place, ib. 
 Called alfo Dequahalie, 161 
 
 Manfunab, a fruitful ifle in the Nile, 115 
 
 Manufactures* at Benefuief, 71. At Akmim, 76. 
 Of earthen ware at Kena, 87. Of Egypt in 
 general, 173 
 
 Manufcripts, antientone of the law at Cairo, 28. 
 Of the bible, faid to have been written by Ez- 
 ra, and ftrange tradition about it, ib. 
 
 Maps, of Egypt very incorrect, 1 5 
 
 Mareotis (Lake) 3, 10 
 
 Mark (St.) church dedicated to him, etc. 7. Said 
 to have firft preached the gofpel at Alexandria, 
 and to have been the firft patriarch of that place, 
 
 244- ■ 
 Mary (St.) convent of, 149 
 Mahalla* 18 
 
 Matarea, village, remarkable for excellent wa- 
 ter, 23. Tradition about the Holy family 
 there, ib. 
 
 Mecca* hangings made for it at Cairo, 32. Not 
 to be touched by a Chriftian, ib. Pilgrims for, 
 their place of meeting, 134. Lands belong- 
 ing to, 172. Proceflion of the hangings, etc. 
 187, et feqq. Reckoned an indifputable duty 
 to go thither, 188. Obfervation concerning 
 thofe who have made the pilgrimage thither, 
 ib. Caravan for, proceffion of, defcribed, 261. 
 Rout from Cairo to Mecca, 268, et feqq. 
 
 Medals, people fearch for them in the lands at 
 Arfinoe, 58. 
 
 Medinet-Habou* fuppofed to Hand upon the, fite 
 of the antient Memnonium, 97. 
 
 Meidans* what, 184 
 
 Melgah* (Vale of) 144, 149 
 
 Meloui* town, 73. Great quantity of corn fur- 
 nifhed from thence annually, 74 
 
 Memnon* his famous palace at Abydus, 83. 
 Temple at Thebes, 91. Statues defcribed, 
 and meafures, 101. Infult when copying 
 the inferiptions, 102, 105. Wonderful found 
 faid to have proceeded from his ftatue, ib. 
 Accounts of him and it by the antients, and 
 conjectures, 103, et feqq. 
 
 Memnonium* at Thebes, 9 1 . See Medinet-Habou. 
 
 Memphis* 39. Its fituation uncertain, ib. Ma- 
 terials of it probably carried to Alexandria, ib. 
 No ruins of it feen, all overflowed by the Nile, 
 ib. Conjectures about its diftance from the 
 pyramids, etc. 40. Grottos, conjectured to 
 have been fepulchres, ib. Bank, conjectured 
 to have been the antient rampart, ib. Lakes, 
 ib. Thought to have been built by Menes firft 
 king of Egypt, ib. Palace of the kings there, 
 4r. Extent of the city, ib. "Worfhip of Ofi- 
 ris there, ib. Temples to Vulcan, and to Ve- 
 nus, ib. Molt remarkable pyramids near it, 
 taken notice of by the antients, ib. Remains 
 of a mound, thought to have been part of the 
 antient rampart, 56, 
 
 Mendes, or Imandes, the labyrinth fuppofed, by 
 Diodorus, to have been built for his fepulchre, 
 61 
 
 Mendefian* branch of the Nile, 19 
 
 Menelaus and Helen, faid to have been entertained 
 by kingThonis, 12. His pilot Canopns, ib. 
 
 Menes* firft king of Egypt, 40. Courfe of the 
 Nile turned, and the city Memphis faid to 
 have been built by him, ib. City Arfinoe faid 
 
 E X. 
 
 to have been built by him, and called The city 
 
 of crocodiles, 59. Divine honours militated 
 
 by him to that animal, and tradition of the 
 
 reafon why he did fo, ib. 
 Menetfah* (Valley of) 140 
 Menouf* city, 160 
 Menoufieh* (Province of) 161 
 Menfhich, old Ptolemais, 82. Said by Strabo to 
 
 have been the greateft city in the Thebaid, ib. 
 
 Ruins near it, ib. Fofie round the town, lake, 
 
 grottos, etc. ib. 
 Menfhieh Daflmir* village, 53 
 Menzale, (Lake) 18, 19, 20 
 Merify winds, 134 
 
 Mefr* antient name of Cairo, and of Egypt in 
 general, 26 
 
 Meteffib* nature of his office, 165 
 
 Metrahenny* 40. Suppofed to be near the fitua- 
 tion of old Memphis, ib. Grottos and bank 
 there, conjectures about them, ib. Bridge, 41. 
 Antient bed of the Nile, ib. 
 
 Michael* (St.) river Nile begins to rife upon his 
 day, and accounted a miracle, 200 
 
 Middle Egypt. See Egypt. 
 
 Migdol* 1 8 . Famous for the defeat of the Sy- 
 rians, ib. 
 
 Mikias, the houfe in which is the pillar for mea- 
 furing the rife of the Nile, 28. Obfervations 
 made in it, 256. None but the Pallia, or one 
 from him, allowed to enter it while the river is 
 rifing, 258 
 
 Mikra* what, 177 
 
 Milefians* conjecture about them, 14 
 
 Minio, 73 
 
 Minos* king of Crete, his labyrinth built fromi 
 
 the model of that of Egypt, 61 
 Mint* at Cairo, 8 
 Mifenides, a people fo called, 137 
 Mnevis, bull fo named, worfhipped at Heliopo- 
 
 lis, 23 
 
 Maris* (Lake) 17,56,63. Its extent according 
 to Herodotus, Diodorus, and Pomponius Mela, 
 63. Account of the cutting of it, and by 
 whom it was made, 64. Conjectures about 
 the ufe it was intended for, ib. Defcribed, 65. 
 Water very fait, ib. 
 
 Molottos* at Cairo, 38. At the cataracts almoft 
 all the people fo, 121 
 
 Mofes* where faid to have been found by Pha- 
 raoh's daughter, 29. See Sinai (Mount.) 
 
 Mofques, at Alexandria, 7. Remarkable one at 
 Cairo, called Amrah, 28. Of Omar, ib. Mag- 
 nificent one of Sultan Haflan, 31. Beautiful 
 one called Kubbe-el-Azab, ib. Another re- 
 fembling that of Mecca, 32. OfEl-Imam- 
 Shafei, ib. Of Sheik Duife, 36. One near 
 mount Duife, ib. OfSaronebi, whence fo cal- 
 led, 55. At Akmin, 78. On mount Sinai, 146 
 
 Motrody, 22 
 
 Muellah* 131 
 
 Mummies, at Saccara, defcribed, 54. Suppofed 
 to be all of female bodies, and reafon for that 
 opinion, 227. Thofe now remaining afford 
 none of the drug antiently made from mum- 
 mies, 231. Some brought from Egypt de- 
 fcribed, 232. Of an Ibis defcribed, 233. See 
 Catacombs* Embalming, Coffins* etc. 
 
 Mitnna, feaft kept there by the pilgrims for Mec- 
 ca, 189 
 
 Mufe* town, conjecture about it, 71 
 Mufeum* in the palace at Alexandria, 4 
 
 Muffulmen, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Mujfulmen, con feienticms, offence nor to be given 
 them, 17. See Turks and Mahometans. 
 
 Muftabait-d-Pbaraone, pyramid near Saccara fo 
 called, 50. Tradition about it, ib. 
 
 Muteferrika, who, 166 
 
 Mycerinns, the third pyramid of Gize faid .to 
 
 have been built by him, 47 
 Myris, (King) lake Meeris laid to have been cut 
 
 by him, 64 
 
 Mythology, (Egyptian) conjecture about its rife, 
 177. In great meafure the foundation ot the 
 heathen religions, 221. Erroneous explana- 
 tions of it, how oceafioned, 222. Genealogy 
 of the gods, according to the antients, intricate 
 and ambiguous, ib. Accounts of Herodotus 
 and Diodorus Siculus, ib. Gods of Egypt to 
 be fuppofed no other than men deified for their 
 wifdom and beneficence, 223. ThcfameDei- 
 ty often worfliipped under feveral names and 
 fhapes, ib. Hiftory of ibme of the Egyptian 
 gods, ib. et feqq. Fables relating to the birth 
 of leveral of them on what founded, 226 
 
 N. 
 
 NABAH, Nabate, ot Nouebeh, conjectures 
 about thefe names, 13S 
 Nabock, fruit fo called, 122 
 Nach el-Tor, grove ib named, 141 
 Nackele, port, 75 
 
 Naked faints, who, 14. Superftitious veneration 
 
 paid them, ib. 
 Nakib, 170 
 
 Nafr-Iben-Calahoun, (Sultanj magnificent houfe 
 
 at Cairo, faid to have been built by him, 37 
 Natron, lakes, 17 
 Naucratis, 14, 16 
 
 Neckib-el-Efheraf, head of the relations of Maho- 
 met, 1 7 1 
 
 Neco, king of Egypt, the Syrians defeated by 
 him, 18. Probable that the canal of the kings 
 was carried on by him, 22 
 
 Necropolis, at Alexandria, 6 
 
 Negeb-Houah, (Vale of) 142 
 
 Neptunium, temple to Neptune, at Alexandria, 5 
 
 Ncquade, a bifnop's fee, S2. Monattery, ib. 
 
 NeJIe, village, 60. Ruined cattle there, ib, 
 
 Nicopolis, 1 1 . Aqueduct there, ib. Theatre, 
 ib. Victory gamed there by Auguftus over 
 Anthony, 1 1 
 
 Nil, herb lb called, how ufed, 204 
 
 Nile, (River) great difficulty of fettling the geo- 
 graphy of itsantient branches, 15. Sailing on 
 it very pleufunt, from the beauty of its banks, 
 etc. 16. Eaftern branch, 18. Pelufiac or Bu- 
 bafttc branch, 18, 20. Mud how far out at 
 fea to be found, 19. Mendefian branch, 21. 
 Phatnitic branch, ib. Bufiritic branch, ib. 
 Water raifed by oxen at Cairo, 27. Anrient 
 cuflom of facrificing a virgin yearly to the river 
 god, 27. Pillar for meafuring its rife, 28. 
 Steps on which Mofes is faid to have been 
 found, 29. Courfe turned by Mcnes Brit king 
 of Egypt, 40. Conjecture about its antient 
 
 bed, 41. about the method of turning 
 
 its courfe, 56. Its annual inundation fufficient 
 to water the country of Egypt, without rain, 
 59. Communication with the canal Bahr Jo- 
 fepli, 64. Danger of failing on it in the 
 night, 70. All the water in Egypt fuppofed 
 to come from it, except that near Akmim, 
 4 
 
 78, 198. Very narrow at Hajar-Silcily, 114. 
 Nilometcr at Elephantine, for meafuring the 
 rife of the water, 117. Grand Signor's reve- 
 nue not fent from Egypt uniefs the river rife 
 to a certain heighth, 172. One of the princi- 
 pal curiofities of Egypt, 198. Conjectures a- 
 bout the caufe of its annual inundation, ib. 
 Some account of its rife, 199, 200. Suppofed 
 by fome to begin to rife every year on the fame 
 day, ib. Conjecture about a dew faid to fall 
 the night before, ib, Change of the colour of 
 the waters, and their effects, after it has begun 
 to rife, ib. Conjecture about the caufe of that 
 change, ib. Method of making the water 
 fine, ib. Rife accounted a miracle, and why, 
 ib. Reckoned the better, the fooner it begins, 
 ib. What heighths are moderate, and what 
 exceffive, ib. Has fometimes rifen at an unu- 
 fual time, 201. Methods of raifing its waters 
 by labour, ib. Conjectures about its rife, 249, 
 250. Account of it by Herodotus, 251. By 
 Strabo, 252. By Kalkafendas, ib. et feqq. A 
 view of its rife at feveral diftant periods, 253. 
 Very difficult to determine the real heighth it 
 rifes to, ib. The world much miftaken about 
 it, ib. Conjectures about the antient method 
 of meafuring it, ib. See Mikias. Obferva- 
 tions made in the Mikias, 256. An account 
 of the heighths it rofe to for three years, ib. et 
 feqq. A view of the times of the year at which 
 it was rifen to fixteen pikes, for forty- fix years, 
 258. See Crocodiles, Fijbes, etc. 
 
 Nitre, foil of Egypt full of it, 197. The chief 
 caufe of the fruitfulnefs of Egypt, ib. 
 
 Nokta, what, 199 
 
 Nomi, 2 , j£ 1 . ' 
 
 O. 
 
 OASIS, Chriftians often banifhed thither, 83. 
 Letter from St. Athanafius to them there, 
 ib. Three different places of this name, and 
 where fituated, ib. Lake there, ib. 
 Obelijks, at Alexandria, 5, 7. At Heliopolis, 23. 
 By whom fuppofed to have been erected, ib. 
 At Arfinoe, 59. At Thebes, 95. Two at 
 Luxerein, reckoned among the fineft in die 
 world, 107. Their meafures, ib. At Con- 
 ftantinople, 229. Conjectures about the In- 
 fcriptions upon it, ib. 
 Obfervatory, mentioned by the Arabian hifto- 
 
 rians, 36. At Syene, 117 
 Ogiaks, (Military) what, 162 
 Okelas, at Cairo, what, 37 
 Omar, mofque of, at Cairo, 28 
 Ombus. See Com-Ombo. 
 
 On, of the fcriptures, fince called Heliopolis, now 
 Matarea, 23. Inhabitants, worfhippers of the 
 fun and of the bull Mnevis, ib. 
 
 Onias, why fo called, 22. The fame with an- 
 tient Leontopolis, ib. Temple there, ib. 
 
 Onuphrius, (St.) convent of, 149 
 
 Ofiris, 17. Alylum of, ib. Tradition about his 
 burial-place, ib. Worfhipped at Memphis 
 under the form of a bull called Apis, 41. Sta- 
 tues of, at Saccara, 49. Temple of, at Acan- 
 thus, 69. Anubis and Macedon, his compa- 
 nions, traditions about them, 71. Thebes 
 laid to have been built by him, 91. Said to 
 have been buried at Phils, 120. Worfhipped 
 under the form of the hawk, 209. Statue of, 
 I 1 i i defcribed, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 dei'cribed, 212. On what account worfhip- 
 pcd, 223. His hiftory, 225, et feqq. Killed 
 by Typhon, 226. His body, how difpofed of, 
 and divine honours procured him by Ifis, ib. 
 Said to have punifhed the giants, 227 
 
 OJlrich, a drug made of its fleth, 209 
 
 OJymanduas (King) his fepulchre, 106. Extra- 
 ordinary infcriprion on it, 108. Golden circle 
 which furrounded it, 2 1 8 
 
 Ottoman family, 1 
 
 Quardcn, governor of, 1 7 
 
 Oxyrinchus, 72. Conjectured to have flood where 
 Abou-Girge is now, ib. Fiih worfhipped there, 
 ib. 
 
 Oyjler-fhclls, hills entirely made up of them, 56. 
 Petrified, ib. el 73 
 
 P. 
 
 XyAinlings, in the fepulchres of the kings at 
 
 1 Thebes, remarkably frefii, 98 
 
 Palaces, of the kings at Alexandria, 4. Antient, 
 
 of the kings of Egypt, conjectured not to have 
 
 been magnificent, 220 
 Palm-tree, defcribed, 205, et feqq. Thebaic, or 
 
 Dome tree, ib. 
 Panium, 5 
 
 Panopolis, 76. Whence fo called, ib. 
 Panteleemon (St.) chapel of, 1 45 
 Papouches, what, 190 
 
 Pafia, nature of his office, rC2, 163. Heirs of 
 all eftates in Egypt inverted by him, ib. His 
 perfon facred, 163. Removal a ftep toward 
 advancement, ib. Generally a very eafy place, 
 ib. His Caia, how to be qualified, ib. De- 
 ftruaion among the leading men often occa- 
 floned by him, ib. Ceremony at depofing 
 him, 169. Obliged to refund the expence be- 
 llowed at his public entry, ib. Inftances of the 
 wicked intrigues of Palhas, 179, etfeqq. 
 
 Pa/pert. See Firman. 
 
 Patent, copy of that of Mahomet to the monks of 
 Mount Sinai, 268, et feqq. 
 
 Patriarch, Greek, of Alexandria, vifit to him, 15. 
 Patriarch's ftreet, 28. Coptic, how elefted, 
 245. Preaches once a year, 246. Whimfical 
 method of extorting his leave to eat eggs in 
 Lent, ib. St. Mark faid to have been the firll 
 
 of Alexandria, 244. of Conftantinople, 
 
 form of a letter of recommendation from him, 
 
 272. ■ of Alexandria, lift of bilhopricks 
 
 under him, 279, et feqq. 
 
 Paul (St ) See Antony. 
 
 Pelufiac branch of the Nile, the fame with the Bu- 
 
 baftic, 18, 20. 
 Penuafi, a people fo called, 137 
 Peter and Paul (SS.) convent of, 1 3 
 PetrifaBions, 197 
 Phacitfa, 22 
 Phagroriopolis, 136 
 Pharamitie, 158 
 
 Pharan, hill, conjecture about it, 158 
 
 Pharos, at Alexandria, 2 
 
 Phatnitic branch of the Nile, 2 1 
 
 PhiU (Me of) its extent, 120. Temple, ib. 
 IQe held facred, and why, ib. Remains of an 
 antient wall, Coloffal figures, obelifks, etc. 121. 
 Beautiful profpeft from thence, ib. Another 
 temple there, ib. Pillars of it, the fined in E- 
 gypt, ib. Manner of coming to the ifle upon 
 
 floats, ib. High rocks artificially cut, with 
 hieroglyphics, there, ib. 
 Phthonthis, village, 1 14 
 Pidgeon-houfes, much valued in Egypt, 2 10 
 Pigmy and crane fighting, a figure of them de- 
 fcribed, 213 
 
 Pilgrims (Lake of ) 132. See the articles Cara- 
 van, and Mecca. 
 
 Pillars, remains of grand ones to be feen under 
 
 water at Alexandria, 2, 3, 5. of Pom- 
 
 pey, 7. Eleven built to direct the way through 
 the deferts of Canopus, r3- Ruins of, in the 
 temple at Baalbait, 2 r . Famous one for mea- 
 furing the rife of the Nile, 28. See Mikias. 
 
 • Egyptian, the proportion in them not 
 
 eafily fixed, 215. Seealfo2i6. Meafures 
 of feveral, 221 
 
 Plague, what numbers have died of it in one 
 day at Cairo, 38. At what feafon of the year 
 it begins to flop, and conjecture about the 
 caufe of its flopping, 200 
 
 Plants, Egyptian and Arabian, lift of fome, 281, 
 
 "fill- , . * 
 
 Plato and Eudoxus, their apartments at Heltopo- 
 
 lis Ihewn to Srrabo, 23 
 Pliny, fituation of Memphis fixed by him, 40 
 Pompey, where murdered and buried, 18 
 Pomponius Mela, his opinion about the ufe for 
 
 which the labyrinth was built, 61 
 Porte (Ottoman) have often endeavoured to bring 
 
 the military bodies of Egypt more under fub- 
 
 jection, 165. See Signer (Grand) etc. 
 Porticos, at Alexandria, 6. At Archemounain, 
 
 74. At Gaua-Kiebre, 76 
 
 Ports, of Alexandria, 2. of the Kings, 5 
 
 Prayer, publick place for, at Cairo, 36. The 
 
 fame near all cities in Turkey, ib. 
 Predeftiuation, believed by the Egyptians, 180, 
 
 196 
 
 Prie/ls, of Heliopolis, men of learning, 23. Of 
 the convent of St. Anthony, 70 
 
 Pfamnwtichits, the labyrinth fuppofed to have been 
 built for his fepulchre, 61 
 
 Ptolemy, the fecond, canal of the Kings probably 
 finiined by him, 22 
 
 Pyramids, near Cairo, 25, 40. Of Gize, 41. 
 Conjecture, sk Moftly ruinous, ib. One of 
 them, by whom faid to have been built, 42. 
 Different accounts of them by Herodotus, Di- 
 odorus, and Strabo, ib. By Greaves, Lewen- 
 ftein and Mallet, 43. Subterraneous apart- 
 ments under one of them, according to Hero- 
 dotus, ib. Suppofed to have been the fepul- 
 chres of the Kings of Egypt, it. Meafures 
 of the infide of the great pyramid, ib. Se- 
 cond pyramid of Gize defcribed, 45. By whom 
 faid to have been built, ib. Accounts of He- 
 rodotus, Strabo, Diodorus, and Thevenot, ib. 
 Grottos, in the rocks near, 46. Ruins, fup- 
 pofed of a temple near, ib. Third pyramid, 
 by whom faid to have been built, 47. Mea- 
 fures, and other particulars, according to He- 
 rodotus, Diodorus, and Strabo, ib. Conje- 
 ctured to have been built around hills, 48,50. 
 Wells in the bottom of them, very difficult 
 to go down into, ib. Brick pyramid, 49. 
 Of Saccara, ib. Imperfect one called Mufta- 
 bait-el-Pharaone, 50. Tradition about it, ib. 
 Great one, 5 1 . Defcription and Meafures, etc. 
 ib. Suppofed equal to the great one of Gize, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 3°7 
 
 ib. D"fcription and meafures of rooms with- 
 in it, 52. Great one to the South, ib. Dc- 
 fcription and meafures, ib. Ruined one, 53. 
 
 of imburnt brick, ib. Defcription, rtiea- 
 
 iiires, and conjectures about it, ib. At Arfi- 
 noe, 57. Defcription, ib. In the lake Mce- 
 ris, 65. Of Davara, 66. Great, orfalfeone 
 near Stalhiteh, 69. Conjectures about it, 70. 
 Entrance to the great one defcribed, 234, et 
 feqq. How it was forced open, ib'. et feqq. Art 
 of thcarchfteft in fhutting up the palTagc, ib. 
 et feqq. Gallery, 236. Firft chamber, 237. 
 Niche, fuppofed to have contained the body 
 of the Queen, ib. Upper chamber where the 
 body of the King was depofited, ib. Flaw ob- 
 ferved in the ftones of the pafTage, and con- 
 jecture about the caufe, of it, ib. Second 
 chamber, 239. Tomb of granite in ir, fup- 
 pofed to have contained the body of the King, 
 ib. Not to be doubted, that feveral living 
 perfons fhut thcmfelves up with him, ib. Pal- 
 fages in the pyramid, confirming this conje- 
 cture, 240. Doubts about the manner of fil- 
 ling up the entrance, when the pyramid was 
 built, anfwered, ib. Secret of the gallery, and 
 conjectures, ib. et ftqq. The well, 243. Grot- 
 to, ib. et 244 
 
 Uarries, of granite, and conjectures about 
 the method of working them, 1 17, 120 
 
 R 
 
 RAHA (Vale of) See Sinai (Mount;) 
 Raie^y of) 142 
 Raigni, 125 
 
 Rain and hail in Egypt, 59. Caufe of fcarcity, 
 ib. 
 
 Raitho, conjecture about that name, 141 
 Ramefan, or Turkifh faft, 72, Very fevere upon 
 
 the labouring people, 184 
 Ramefes, fame with the land of Gofhen, 24 
 Rampart, of Memphis, 40 
 Rafchid, the Egyptian name of Rofetto, 13 
 Red Sea, divided into two gulfs, viz. the Elani- 
 
 tic and Heroopolitic, 132. Productions of it 
 
 very ruinous, 141. See Tor. 
 Reifnnah, 140- Whence fo called, ib. Cultom 
 
 of the Mahometans at that place, ib. 
 Religion, and religious ceremonies, etc. See the 
 
 articles Coptis, Ofiris, Mythology, etc. 
 Rembla, defert of, 137 
 Rank, plain fo called, at Cairo, 33 
 Rephidim (Vale of) 143 
 Rhacofis, 5 
 Rhinocorura, 1 8 
 
 Rice, method of preparing it, 204. Cultivation 
 of it, 259. 
 
 Righah, 70 
 
 Robbery, danger of, 55,131, etc. 
 
 Rocks, of extraordinary fhapes, 1 7 
 
 Roida (Ifle) near Cairo, 26. Its beauties, 28. 
 Ruins there, 29. Said to have had a Sultan's 
 palace on it, ib. 
 
 Romans, Egypt conquered by them, 1 
 
 Rofetto, 3, Its fituation, 13. One of the plea- 
 fanteft places in Egypt, ib. Gardens, groves 
 of palm trees, lakes, rice fields, etc. there, 
 14. Traditions about it, ib. Manufacture of 
 Linen there, and trade with Cairo, ib. Par- 
 
 ticularity in the rifing of the Nile there, ib. 
 Caftle of, 1 5 
 
 Ruins near Manfoura, 20. On the ifle Roida, 
 29. At Caraffa, near Cairo, 35. Near Sac- 
 cara, 49. Of Arfinoe, 58, 59. At the lake 
 Mceris, 65. At Cafr Caroon, 66. Tower of 
 King Antar, 69. At Sharony, 71. Of An- 
 tinoopolis, 73. Of Hermoopolis, 74. At 
 Manfalouth, ib. At Mount Bibian, ib. At 
 Gaua Kiebre, 76. At Akmim, 77. At Men- 
 fhieh, 82. Of antientTentyra, 85. AtKept, 
 88. At Carnack, 90—97. Of a temple fup- 
 pofed to be that of Ofymanduas, 91. AtLux- 
 erein, 106. Of Erment, no. AtHajar-Sil- 
 cily, 114. At Com-ombo, 115. At Affou- 
 an, 116. At Syene, 117. At Elephantine, 
 118. AtPhike, 120. At Tor, 141, 142 
 
 Ryan, place fo called, 65 
 
 QACCARA, pyramids of. See pyramids. 
 ^ catacombs of. See Catacombs. 
 Saffranoun, what, 204 
 
 Sais, fuppofed to be Sin of the fcriptures, 17. 
 Room cut out of one ftone there, ib. et 118. 
 Temple of Minerva there, 17. Afylum of 
 Ofiris there, and ftory of his having been bu- 
 ried there, etc. ib. 
 
 Saladin, walls round Cairo, faid to have been 
 built by him, 25. Caftle of Cairo, faid to have 
 been built by him, 32 
 
 Sal Armoniac, prepared at Cairo, 37. Method of 
 preparing it, 259 
 
 Salisbury (Earl of) his heroic death, 20 
 
 Samalout, 73 
 
 Sangiaks, and Sangialics, what, 161. Sangiak of 
 upper Egypt, his great power, 164, 172 
 
 Sara (Cafhif) ftory of him, 72 
 
 Saracens, 1. City Alexandria taken by them, 
 2. Country of, 136. Arabians call'd Saracens, 
 and why, 137 
 
 Saranebi (Mofque of) why fo called, 55. 
 
 Sarcophagus, at Cairo, 32. At Kept, 89. Con- 
 jecture about them, ib. 
 
 Saroneby, near Cairo, 25 
 
 Sciout, town of, 73. Suppofed the fame with 
 Antaeopolis, ib. One of the chief cities in E- 
 gypt, ib. Lake, canal, bridge, gardens, grot- 
 tos, etc. there, ib. Why antiently called An- 
 tfeopolis, ib. 
 
 Sculpture, on the buildings in Egypt, 219. & feqq, 
 Suppofed to have been executed after the build- 
 ings were finifhed, ib. See the articles, Archi- 
 tecture, Colojfus, Pillars, Temples, etc. 
 
 Sea (Red) See Red fea. Of its gaining upon the 
 dry land, 2, 3 
 
 Seals, and medals. See Medals. Of fame brought 
 from Egypt, 2 14 
 
 Sebennitic, branch of the Nile, 16, 22 
 
 Sebennytus, capital of a province, 22 
 
 Seer (Valley of) 147 
 
 Selemenites, a feet fo call'd at Tor, 141 
 
 Selim (Sultan) 1. Camp at Heliopolis, 23. Tra- 
 dition of his having condemned a Bey or Sultan 
 to be tortured and hang'd, 30. Hiftorical ac- 
 count, and conjectures, about the changes made 
 by him in the conftitution of Egypt, 64 
 
 Seling, conjectured to be the antient Selinon, 75. 
 
 Semenud, a confiderable town, 22 
 
 Senna, trade of, 122, 205 
 
 Sennours, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Sennours, village, entertainment there, 57 
 Sepulchres, See Tombs. 
 Serapium, 41 
 
 Sergius (St.) church of, holy family laid to have 
 
 been in ir, 27 
 Serich (Mount) 143 
 
 Sefsftris, King ofEgypt, canal of the Kings made 
 by him, 22. His intent in making the canals 
 in Egypt, 197 
 
 Sharme, 137 
 
 Sharoiiy,j\. Ruins there, and conjecture about 
 them, 127 
 
 Sheik-Belief nature of his office, and conjectures 
 
 about the original of it, 163 
 Sheik-Faddle, a battle fcen there, 127. 
 Sheiks, 137. Hold their authority of the Paiha, 
 
 162. Of mofques, 171 
 Sbeik-Salem (Vale of ) 144 
 Shields, pierced by Sultan Amurath, (hewn at 
 
 Cairo, 3 3 
 
 Shur, or Shedur, deferts of, 139. Cattle of, 
 
 ibid. 
 Sibillallam, 160 
 
 Signor (Grand) originally proprietor of all the 
 lands in Egypt, 162. Greatnefs of his reve- 
 nues, 171. Amount of his revenue from the 
 villages ofEgypt, ib. Method of fending it 
 to Conftantinoplc, ib. Never fent from Egypt, 
 unlefs the Nile riles to a certain height, 172, 
 201 
 
 Sihor, the river of Egypt, 1 36 
 
 Sinai (Mounp manner of performing the jour- 
 ney from Cairo thither, 130. Convent of, o- 
 therwife call'd the convent of St. Catharine, 
 142. Author arrives there, and is received 
 into it through a window, 143. Manner of 
 reception, etc. ib. How named by the Arabs, 
 ib. Defcription of it, ib. & feqq. By fome 
 divided into four mounts, but molt commonly 
 into Sinai and Horeb, ib. Situation of the con- 
 vent, ib. Well in it, and tradition about it, 
 ib. Mount of Mofes, and tradition about it, 
 ib. Chapel of the holy Bum, and tradition a- 
 bout it, ib. Vale of Jah, ib. Rephidim, ib. 
 Rock, faid to be the fame which Mofcs ftruck, 
 defcribed, ib. Called The ftone of Mofes, and 
 fuperftitious opinion of the Arabs about it, 144. 
 Convent of the forty martyrs, ib. The only 
 fruit-trees in thefe parts, in the gardens here, 
 ib. Mount of St. Catharine, and traditions a- 
 bout her, ib. Spring of Partridges, and tradi- 
 tion about it, ib. Ex ten five profpect from the_ 
 mount of St. Catharine, ib. Particular kind of 
 ftone of which it is compofed, ib. Vales of 
 Jah, of Melgah, of Raha, of Sheik Salem, ib. 
 Summit of Mount Sinai not to be feen from 
 many places near, ib. Wells, etc. ib. Cha- 
 pels of St. Panteleemon, and John the Baptiit, 
 145, 146. Road of Serich, fuppofed to be 
 the way by which Mofes alcended the moun- 
 tain, ib. Tradition about the golden calf, ib. 
 About the deftruction of Dathan and Abiram, 
 ib. Conjectures about the original of the name 
 Sinai, ib. Chapel of St. Mary, ib. Cuftoms 
 obferved by thofe that afcend the mountain, 
 ib. Road call'd The road of God, ib. Con- 
 jectures about the fpot on which God appear'd 
 to Mofes, 146. Tower, etc. built here by :hc 
 Emprefs Helena, ib. Chapel of the holy Gir- 
 dle, ib. Cells near the convents of St, Pante- 
 
 leemon, and St. John the Baptlft, and con- 
 jectures about them, ib. Cell of St. Stephen, 
 ib. Vale of Elias, ib. Chapels of Elias, Eli/ha, 
 and St. Marina, ib. Print of a camel's foot 
 there, and abfurd tradition about it, ib. Hang- 
 ing rock, which Elias was forbid to pafs, ib. 
 Top of the mount defcribed, ib. Mofque,and 
 grotto, ib. Tradition of Mofes's having fafted 
 forty days there, ib. Infeription, ib. Greek 
 church of our Saviour, ib. Latin one, ib. 
 Rock on the fummit of the mount, and tradi- 
 tion about it, 147. Sacriiices perform'd there 
 by the Mahometans, ib. Citterns there, ib. 
 Number of fteps in the afcent of the mountain, 
 ib. Valley of Seer, ib. Of what the moun- 
 tain is compofed, ib. Mount Epifteme. See 
 Epifteme. Privileges of the convent, 148. In- 
 fcription mention'd by Kircher, on a ftone at 
 the foot of Mount Horeb, and traditions about 
 the ftone, ib. Infcriptions not cut, but ftained, 
 ib. Several convents, 1 49. Great convent, 
 fuppofed to have been built by the Emprefs 
 Helena, ib. Defcription, and meafures, ib. 
 Church of the Transfiguration, ib. Relicts of 
 St. Catharine, 1 50. Chapel of the holy fa- 
 thers, and infeription, ib. Wells, 151, Con- 
 vent, how governed, ib. Decency of their 
 worfhip, 152. Ceremonies, ib. Cuftoms on 
 the arrival of pilgrims, 153. Library, rnanu- 
 fcripts, and Greek books of the hrft print- 
 ing, ib. Several fingular cuftoms, ib. Leaves 
 the convent to view feveral other places about 
 Mount Sinai and Horeb, and returning, fees 
 their ceremonies at the convent, etc. 154 Af- 
 cends the mountain a fecond time, and departs, 
 158. Patent of Mahomet, to the monks of it, 
 2 1 8. etc. 
 
 Sirbonis, lake, its properties according to Strabo, 
 18 
 
 Siflrum, mufical inftrument fo called defcribed, 
 212 
 
 Slaves, trade in them, 126. Their great power 
 
 in Egypt, 164. See Mamalukes. 
 Sment (lfte and village of) 70 
 Soil, conjectures about that of Arfinoe, 5S. Of 
 
 Egypt, 197. Caufes of its fruitfulnefs, ib. 
 
 Antient ftate, ib. 
 Souadgy, town, 79 
 SotHidy, 73 
 
 Sount, or Acacia tree, 69 
 
 Spabis, the cavalry in Egypt fo called, 166 
 
 Sphinx (Statues of) 11, 12, 23, 46. At Thebes, 
 92, 93. Famous one, 46. Defcription and 
 meafures, ib. At Amara, 87 
 
 Sprmgs of Mofes, 138. Nature of the Soil 
 round them, ib. Of Ouardan, 139. At Je- 
 bel-Ie-Marah, ib. Of hot waters, called Je- 
 bel-Hamam-Pharaone, ib. Obfervations and 
 experiments made on thefe Waters, 140. 
 Method of ufing them, and their fuppofed 
 virtues, ib. Of Woufet, ib. Of Taldi, ib. 
 Nach-el-Tor, 141. Accident which happened 
 there, ib. 
 
 Sialhiteh, village, 69 
 
 Statues, of Sphinxes, 11, 12, 23, 46. Of Dei- 
 ties, etc. at Baalbait, of exquifite workman- 
 fhip, 2 t. Small ones of Ofiris, atSaccara, 49. 
 Coloffal, in the lake Mceris, 65. At Amara, 
 87. At Thebes, 93. At Luxeixin, 106. At E- 
 lephantine, 1 1 7. Of Ifis, defcribed, 211. 
 
 Of 
 
INDEX. 
 
 2.09 
 
 Of Ofiris, defcription of it, 212. Of Harpo- 
 crates, 213, 214. Defcription of one lately 
 brought from Egypt, 284 
 
 Stephen, (St.) cell of, 146 
 
 Stinc-Marin, animal fo called, 208 
 
 Strabo, great obfcurity in his fituations of places, 
 2. His account of the lake Sirbonis, 18. 
 Shewn the apartments of Plato and Eudoxus 
 at Heliopolis, 23. His account of the fituatton 
 • of Memphis, 40. His conjecture about the 
 ufe for which the labyrinth was built, 61. His 
 
 account of the pyramids, etc. 62. of 
 
 Typhonia, 87. of Egyptian temples,^ 
 
 92. of the fepulchres of the kings of 
 
 Thebes, 97. of Cleopatris, Arfinoe, etc. 
 
 132. of the rife of the Nile, 252 
 
 Subterraneous palfages from Jofeph's well at Cai- 
 ro* 34 
 
 Suez, 132. Well of, Portof, etc. 133. Go- 
 vernment of, ib. Scarcity of water there, and 
 advantage taken thereby of the inhabitants 
 by the Sheik Arab, ib. Canal, mofques, 
 Greek church, lake, etc. 134. Trade, ib. 
 Fleet, and manner of the voyage from thence 
 to Jedda, ib. Ships defcribed, 135. Voyage 
 from thence to Jedda dangerous, ib. Manner 
 of anchoring their mips, and materials their ca- 
 bles are made of, 136. Madreporae, or coral, 
 there, ib. Deftitute of all things the earth pro- 
 duces, ib. 
 
 Sugar canes, much ufed in Egypt, 204. Manu- 
 facture of, ib. 
 Sim, wormipped at Heliopolis, 23 
 Surplice, conjecture about its original, 1S9 
 Sycamore-tree, tradition of the Holy family's hav- 
 ing been faved in an hollow one, 24. The 
 fame with Pharoah's fig-tree, 28 
 Syene, ruins of, 116. Ruins there, probably of a 
 temple, 117. Obfervatory, etc. there, 16. 
 Quarries of granite there, and conjectures about 
 the method of working them, ib. 
 Synagogue, at Cairo, pretended to be of great an- 
 tiquity, 27 
 
 Syria, trade of exporting foap from thence, 20 
 
 TAFNES whence fo called, 20 
 Tailoun, part of Cairo fo called, 32 
 Talc, called Trichites, 56, 139 
 Tal&i, 140 
 
 Tamiea, 56. Canal there, ib. 
 
 Taxis, theZoanof fcripture, 20 
 
 Taphanhes, of fcripture, 20 
 
 Tapofiris, 10, 12. Statues of Spinxes, Coloflal 
 flatties, and ruins there, ib. Rocks feen at the 
 bottom of the fea there, artificially fliaped, ib. 
 Wells of frefli water there, ib. 
 
 Taroutefherif, 74 
 
 Te, a general name for mountains in Egypt, 138 
 T '.arofaid, 131 
 
 Tefterdar of Egypt, who, 162 
 
 Temples, ruined one of Ifis at Baalbait, 21. Its 
 length and magnificence, ib. To Diana, a: 
 Benalliaffar, 22. At Onias, in oppofition to 
 that of Jerufalem, 22. Near the pyramids, 
 47. Of the labyrinth, 61. Of Ofiris at A- 
 canthus, 69. At Archemounain, 74. Ruins 
 of, at Gaua-Kiebre, 76. At Akmim, 77. 
 At EL-Berbi, entirely demolifhed, 8 3. At A- 
 mara, 86. At Kept, 88. At Cous, 89. Ruins 
 
 of magnificent ones at Carnack, 91*— 97. 
 At Luxerein, 106. At Erment, 110. At 
 Efne, in. At Com-Ombo, 115. At Ele- 
 phantine, 117. At Phike, r20. At Arche- 
 mounain, 127. Of Solomon, conjecture about 
 the palm-trees mentioned in fcripture as orna- 
 ments of it, 217 
 Tencre, 18 
 
 Tentyra, S5. Inhabitants of, enemies and de- 
 ftroyers of the crocodile, and often at war with 
 the worlhippers of that animal, ib. Notion ot 
 their having an extraordinary power over the 
 crocodile, 86\ Great worfhippers of Ifis and 
 Venus, ib. 
 
 Tejtimonhim, copy of one, 275 
 
 Thabanea (Canal of) 2 1 
 
 Theatre, at Alexandria, 7 
 
 Thebes, 2. By whom built, and its extent, gr. 
 Memnonium, fo cailed from the templeof Me'm- 
 non there, ib. Eaftern part afterwards called 
 Great Diolpolis, ib. Hundred gates of, and 
 conjectures about them, 9 1 . Four magnificent 
 temples faid to have been there, 92. Aftonifli- 
 ing account: given of one of them, not to be 
 difcredited, ib. Defcription of feveral ruined 
 temples there, 91 — 97. Perhaps the fame that 
 was in antient times called Sheba, 110. See 
 Carnack. 
 
 Themaie, fuppofed to be the fame with Baal-bej's, 
 and antient Heracleopolis, 20 
 
 Tholoun, partof Cairo built by him, 32 
 
 Thonis, a king of that name faid to have entertain- 
 ed Menelaus and Helen, 12 
 
 Timoniujn, at Alexandria, 5 
 
 Tim/ah, the modern name of the crocodile, 203 
 
 Tobacco, trade of, atDamiata, 20 
 
 Tombs, of the kings, at Alexandria, 4. Of Ach- 
 rned Bedoui, and tradition about it, 17. Of 
 Alexander, At Cairo, 35, 36. Near the 
 pyramids of Gize, 41, Of the kings in 
 the labyrinth, 61. Of the crocodiles there, ib. 
 Of the kings of Thebes, 97. Accountof them 
 by Diodorus Siculus, 98. Paintings in them, 
 ib. Defcription of them, ib. Prodigious one 
 of Ofymanduas, 106 
 
 Tofar, 60 
 
 Tor, 137. Situation, 141. Ruined caftle, ib. 
 People of the Greek church there, ib. Seje- 
 menites, a particular feet there, ib. Conje- 
 ftures about them, ib. Excellent water there, 
 ib. Baths of Mofes, ib. Productions of the 
 Red fea to be feen there, ib. 142, Ano- 
 ther caftle, r52. Village Jebelee, near, ib. 
 
 Torrent, or river of Egypt, l 8 
 
 Towers, for the defence of Alexandria, 3. Of 
 King Antar, 69 
 
 Tourat-Nadtr, canal fo called, 160 
 
 Trade, of Damiata, 20. Of Cairo, 39. Of 
 Kept, 87, S8. Of Senna, how managed, 
 122. Of Suez, 134. Of coffce, ib. Of E- 
 
 gyp% 173 
 
 Trajan, canal of, 133, et feqq. 
 
 Transfiguration (Church of the) 149. Defcrip- 
 tion, antiquity, inferiptions, traditions, etc. 150. 
 Reiicks of St. Catharine there, ib. 
 
 T reafurer of Egypt, See Tefterdar. 
 
 Trees of Egypt, 205, et feqq\. 
 
 Turcoman, race at Cairo, 38 
 
 Turks, their manner at vifits defcribed, 15, 184. 
 Lay afide their gravity in private, 59. Falls. 
 See Fafis. Princes, their cuftom of feizing the 
 Kkkk eftates, 
 
 1 
 
I N D 
 
 ■eftates got in their fervice, 68. Feaft, Bi- 
 ram, 85. Women's ornaments very coftly, 
 178. Turks, who properly fo called, 178. 
 Their character, ib. Very artful, 'etc. 181. 
 Decent in their behaviour, 182. Manner of 
 
 falutation, ib. of eating, ib. A kind of 
 
 beer made by them, ib. Manner of exprefllng 
 their difTatisfaction, 184. Benilh days, ib, 
 Meidans, diverfions there, ib. Do not pra- 
 ctife reading, ib. Calculation of time, 185. 
 TEra, ib. Bathing, ib. Manner of travelling, 
 ib. Kitchen, and other utenfils, 186 
 Turpbaier, 69 
 
 lypbon, Ofiris faid to have been fiain by him, 
 
 226 - ■ ' 
 
 Typhonia of Strabo, conjectures about it, 87 
 
 U 
 
 UNiverfity, at Cairo, 35 
 Upper Egypt. See Egypt 
 
 V 
 
 VASES, antient, at Cairo, 29 
 Vegetables of Egypt, 204 
 Venus, temple to her at Memphis, 41. At Ten- 
 tyra, 86 
 
 Vipers, in Egypt, called Ceraftes by the antients, 
 
 208 
 
 Virgin.) antient cuftom of facrificing one yearly to 
 the Nile, 27. One confecrated annually at 
 Thebes, 96 
 
 Vulcan, temple to him at Memphis, 4r 
 
 W. 
 
 WAAD-Aie plain fo called, 158. Hebran, 
 142. Pharan, 14 
 Walla, nature of his office, 165 
 Walls, of Alexandria, 3 
 War (Holy) at Damiata, 19 
 Water, railed by machines, at Babylon, 25. 
 
 E X. 
 
 At Cairo, 27 From Jofeph's well at 
 
 Cairo, 33. How convey'd to the lands from 
 Tamiea, 56. Of the canals of Faiume not 
 good, 58. Of the lake Mceris very fait, 65. 
 At Akmim, the only water in Egypt, not fup- 
 plied by the Nile, 78. At Jebel-Zeit, fuppo- 
 fed of a healing virtue, 142 
 
 Weekadifaid, a people fo call'd, 137 
 
 Weights, antient, brought from Egypt, 214 
 
 Weft-India coffee, trade of, 134 
 
 Winds, in Egypt, 195. Merify, ib. Meltem, 
 antiently Etefian, ib. Great advantage from 
 them, ib. 
 
 Wine, an acceptable prefent to a Muffulman, 1 7 
 Good, made at Faiume, 58 
 
 Wolves, "why worlhipped in Egypt, 71. Wor- 
 ftipped at Lycopolis, and why, 75. Their 
 tracks feen in the fands at Akmim, 80 
 
 Women, reckon'd very rude to approach them in 
 the eaftern countries, 55. Some fitting by the 
 way fide unveil'd, and their character, 60, 79. 
 Turkifti, their ornaments very coftly, 175. 
 Manner of life, 184. Egyptian, their drefs, 
 191, 192. Reckon it indecent to fiiew the 
 whole face, 192. Rings and other ornaments, 
 ib. Not allow'd to ride on horfes, and why, 
 ib. Ceremonies obferved by them at the fune- 
 rals of their relations, ib. Rendezvous at the 
 bagnios, ib. Manner of painting themfelves, 
 193. Dowry confifts in the ornaments they 
 have for wearing, 208. Honours done them 
 among the antient Egyptians, 227 
 
 Wood, petrified, and conjectures about it, 131. 
 
 Worral, animal fo called, 208. Probably a mif- 
 take that it is affected by mufic, ib. 
 
 Woufet, 140 
 
 Writing, of the antient Egyptians, account of it 
 by Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus, 227. 
 
 ' \.\, ' : 2 
 2°-^' °f tne Scripture, fince called Tanis,