ygaiajlBijajiiafiatigiriafiafiafgaiiia^ l^jpN^^* ':^iMi^' ~^ Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 witii funding from Researcii Library, Tine Getty Researcii Institute http://www.archive.org/details/forestsceneryand02gilp REMARKS O N FOREST SCENERY; AND OTHER WOODLAND VIEWS. REMARKS O N FOREST SCENERY, AND OTHER WOODLAND VIEWS, (Relative chiefly to PICTURESQUE BEAUTY) Illustrated by the Scenes O F NEW-FOREST I N HAMPSHIRE. IN THREE BOOKS. ■ ■■ Happy he. Whom what he views of beautiful, or grand. In nature, from the broad, majeftic oak To the green blade, that twinkles in the fun. Prompt with remembrance of a prefent God. Cooper's Poems. V O L. II. By WILLIAM GILPIN, A.M. PREBENDARY OF SALISBURY; AND VICAR OF BOLDRE IN NEW-FOREST, NEAR LYMINGTON. LONDON; PRINTED FOR R. BLAMIRE, STRAND, M.DCC.XCf. OBSERVATIONS ON FOREST SCENERY. BOOK III. SECTION I. WE concluded the laft book with a catalogue (for it was little more) of the principal forefls, which for- merly overfpread the ifland of Britain. None of them at this day pofTeiies it's original grandeur. A few have preferved fome little appearance of fcenery : but the greater part are wafles. New-foreft in Hamp- fhire is among the few^ which have retained any ideas of their ancient confequence,— At lead it is fuperior to the reft, on account of the extent of it's boundaries -, the variety of it's contents i and the grandeur of it's fcenes. VOL. II, B With ( 2 ) With thefe fcenes I propofe, in the fol- lowing book, to illuftrate the obfcrvations, which have been made in the two preceding books j and ihall in feveral excurfions, through the difFerent parts of this woody country, endeavour to point out it's peculiar beauties. But tho I lliall chiefly confider it in a pic- turefque light y I fhall vary my fubje6t by giving a general idea of the ancient hif- tory, and prefent Itate, of this celebrated foreft. This trad: of wood-land was originally made a forefl by V/ilHam I in the year 1079, about thirteen years after the battle of Haftings ; and is indeed the only foreft in England, whofe ori2;in can be traced. It took the denomination of New-foreft from it's being an addition to the many forefts, which the crown already pofleffedj and which had formerly been appropriated in feudal times. The original name of this trad: of country was Ytene. As feveral forefts were more commodioufly lituated for royal diverfion than New-foreft, the hiftorian hath been fometimes led ta conceive. ( 3 ) conceive, that William muft have had other ends, than amufement, in making this ad- dition to them : and obferving farther, it's vicinity to the coail: of Normandy, he hath from this circumftance drawn a furmife, that under the idea of a foreft, William m.eant to preferve an unobferved communication with the continent i which would enable him to embark his troops, on either fide, without giving alarm. But this furmife depends on no hidorical evidence ; neither indeed is it probable. The coafls of Kent, and SulTex were more com- modious for the embarkation of troops, than any part of New-foreft. And it is abfurd to fuppofe an army could be embarked any where without obfervation. Southampton in- deed was commodious enough : but this port neither lies in New-foreftj nor does the foiefl in any degree, fkreen it's avenues. Befides, the aifairs of William were never in fo per- plexed a ■■■ fituation, as to require privacy ; efpecially at the time when he made this foreft ', which was after he had defeated all his enemies, and was of ccurfe in the height of his power. Nor indeed w^as it agreeable to the general charader of this prince to do B 2 things ( 4 ) things fecretly. He rather chofe, on all occalions, to fvvay the fceptre with a lofty hand. The judicious Rapin feems to clofe the whole debiite very juftly, by obferving, that this furmife feems to have arifen merely from an opinion, that fo politic a prince as William, could do nothing without a political end : whei-eas the moft poHtic princes, no doubt, are fvvayed where their pleafures are concerned, by paffions, and caprice, like other men * The means, which William ufed in af- forefling thefe extenfive wood-lands, create another queftion among hiftorians. The ge- neral opinion is, that he deftroyed a number of villages, and churches ; drove out the in- habitants ; laid their lands wafte ; and formed New-foreft in their room. This opinion has appeared to fome ill founded ; and Voltaire in particular, has flood up in defence of the humanity, or rather the policy of William. It is abfurd, he thinks, to fuppofe that a prince fo noted for prudent and interefted condud:, fliould ♦ Vol. i. fol. page 178. lay ( 5 ) lay wafte fo much cultivated ground ; plant it with forefl trees, which would be many years in coming to perfe6lion ; and for the Hike of a few deer, turn adrift fo large a body of his induftrious fubjecfts, who might have contributed fo much to the increafe of his revenues*. Voltaire's conclufion m.ay be jufl ; but his reafoning is certainly ill-founded. It proceeds on " the improbability of fo wide a defolation -, whereas it might have proceeded better on the impojfibility of it. For how could William have fpread fuch depopulation in a country, which, from the nature of it, mufr have been from the iirfl: very thinly inhabited ? The ancient Ytene was undoubtedly a woody trad: long before the times of William. Voltaire's idea therefore of planting a foreji is abfurd, and is founded on a total ignorance of the country. He took his ideas merely from a French foreft, which is artificially planted, and laid out in viftas, and alleys. It is probable, that William rather opened his chafes by cutting down wood; than that * See his abridgment of univerfal hiftcry. B 3 he ( 6 ) he had occafion to plant more. — Befides, tho the internal ftrata of the foil of New-foreft are admirably adapted to produce timber; yet the furface of it, is in general, poor; and could nev' r have admitted, even if the times Jiad allowed, any high degree of cul- tivation. Upon the whole therefore, it does not feem pojjible, that William could have fpread fo wide a depopulation through this country, as he is reprefented to have done. On the other hand, there is no contending againft the ftream of hiftory : and tho we may allow that William could not make any great depopulation ; we are not to fuppofe he made none at ail. Many writers, who lived about his time, unite in lamentable complaints of his devaftations. According to them, at leaft thirty miles of cultivated lands were laid wafte ; above fifty parifli churches, and many villages deftroyed ; and all the inhabitants extirpated*. But it is to be confidered, that thefe • In fylva, qux vocatur nova forefta, ecclefias, et villas cradicari ; gentem extirpari j et a feris fecit inhabitari. Hen. de Huntingdon. Nova ( 7 ) thefe writers were monks, v/ho had taken high offence at William for his cxad:ions on their monafteries ; and were neither, as it appears, informed themfelves ; nor difpofcd through their prejudices, to inform others. Many things they fay, are palpably falfe. In this dearth therefore of hiilorical evidence, we are flill at a lofs To fuppofe that William made no devailation, and to llippofe that he made all, which thefe prejudiced Nova regia forefla, anglice Ytene, quam Gulielmus baf- tardus, hominibus fugatis, defertis villis, et fabreptis ec- cleliis per 30, et eo amplius milliaria, in faltus, et luiira ferarum redigit. Brompton. ' Per 30, et amplius milliaria, ubi erat homlnum manfio, terra fruftifera, uecnon frugifera, extirpatis dcmibas, cum promariis, et hortis, et etiam ecclefiis, cum ca^metarlis, in foreitam, vel potias in deferta, et ferarum laflra, rege jubente, redafla erant. Hiil. Winton. Hie Gulielmus (Rufus) fecit foreftas in mukis locis, per medium regni ; et inter Southampton, et prioratum Twynam, qui nunc vacatur Chrift-church, proftravit, et extcrminavit 22 ecclefias matrices, cum villis, capellis, maneriis, atque man- fionibus ; fecundum vero quofdam, 52 eccleftris parccliiales; et fecit foreitam novam, quam vocavit fuum novum herbarium ; et replevit earn cervis, damis, et aliis feris ; parcens illis per feptem anno$ primes. Knighton. B 4 monks ( 8 ) monks lay to his charge, feem to be fup- pofitlons equally unfupported. On the whole therefore, the truth of this matter, as of moft others, lies probably between the two opi- nions. With regard to the fituation, and boundaries of this extenfive foreft, it occupies the fouth- weft extremity of Hampfliire ; and in it's earlier form was a kind of peninfula, bounded by the bay of Southampton on the eaft — by the river Avon on the weft— -and on the fouth ; by the channel of the ifle of Wight, as far as the Needles ; and to the weft of thofe rocks by the ocean. Thus the boundaries of New-foreft were determined by the natural lines of the country. It does not however appear, that William I extended the bounds of New-foreft thus far. They are fuppofed rather to have been inlarged by fucceeding princes ; particularly by Henry I, who was probably tempted by the natural limits of the country. By this prince, or at leaft by fome of the early fuc^ ceiTors of William, the whole peninfula was taken in; and the bounds of the foreft were fairly ( 9 ) fairly extended, as I have defcrlbed them, to the bay of Southampton, the river Avon, and the fea. In thofe days it wsls a matter of Httle ceremony either to make, or to inlarge a foreft. Thus faith the law : " It Is allowed to our fovereign lord the king, in refpedl of his continual care, and labour, for the pre- fervatlon of the whole realm, among other privileges, this prerogative, to have his places of recreation, and pafiime, wherefoever he will appoint. For as it is at the liberty, and pleafure of his grace to referve the wild beafts, and the game to himfelf, for his only delight and pleafure, fo he may alfo at his will and pleafure, make a fore ft for them to abide in*." Agreeable to this fpirit of defpotifm, the royal forefts were regulated. Each had it's laws, and government ; and as thefe differed from each other in very few particulars, all were equally grievous to the fubjedt. Foreft- law indeed was one of the greateft incroach- ments that ever was made upon the natural See M^nwood on forefl-Iaw, chap. ii. rights { 10 ) rights of mankind j and confidering the dif- parity of the objedl, one of the greatefl infuhs of tyranny. The Romans had no idea of appropriating jgame. Under their government the forefls of England, Hke thofe of America, were common hunting-grounds. The northern barbarians firfl .pretended to the right of making private pro- perty of what, being naturally wild, belonged equally to all. Tiie idea of forefl-law, and foreft-rights obtained early indeed in Saxon times. But the Saxon princes were in general a mild race ; and there were fome traces of liberal fentiment in their inflitutions. Under them, untenanted waftes only were afforefled — the penalties of foreft-laws were gentle — and the execution of them never rigid. So that, in thofe equitable times, foreft-law was hardly efteemed a burthen upon the people. The Norman princes were a different race. They were fierce, haughty, violent, and de- fpotic. Under them the language of Englifh law in general affumed a nev/ tone -, and of forefl-law in particular. For as the Norman princes were all mighty hunters, this part of jurilprudence engaged their peculiar attention. It ( II ) It was conceived in the highefl fpirlt of defpotifm ; and executed with the utmofl: rigour of vindid:ive tyranny*. It * If the reader wifh to fee the mifchiefs of foreft-law heightened by poetic images, the following lines of Mr. Pope fet them in a ftrong light. Thus all the land appeared, in ages paft, A dreary defert, and a gloomy waft. To favage hearts, and favage laws a prey. And kings more furious, and fevere than they ; Who claimc\^> the Iki??, difpeopled air, and floods. The lonely lords of empty wilds, and woods. Cities laid wafte, they ftormed the dens, and caves ; For .vifer brutes were backward to be flaves. What could be free, when lawlefs beafts obeyed ? And even the elements a tyrart fwayed ? In vain kind feafona uvelled the teeming grain. Soft Ihowers diftilled, and funs grew warm in vain j The fwp.in, with tear'^ his fruftrate labours yields. And famifhed dies amidft his ripening fields. Wiiat wc'-jder then, a bea.1, or fubjedl flainy Were equal crimes in a defpotic reign ! Both doomed alike, for fportive tyrants bled : Eut while the fubjefl ftarved, the beaft was fed. Proud Nimrod firft the bloody chafe began, A mighty hunt«r ; and his prey was man. Our haughty Norman boails that barbarous name. And makes his trembling flaves the royal game. The fields are ravifned from induftrious fwains. From men their cities, and from gods their fanes : The ( 12 ) It is true indeed the principal objed: of foreft-law was the prefervation of game, which the offender killed at his own peril. But when we recoiled how extenfive the royal forefts were, including little lefs than an eighth part of the kingdom — when we con- lider the mifchievous nature of every fpecies of game, and particularly of foreft-deer in cultivated lands — when we obferve farther, that many of the royal forefts were blended The levelled towns with weeds lie covered o'er ; The hollow winds through naked temples roar ; Round broken columns clafping ivy twined ; O'er heaps of ruin ftalked the ftately hind ; The fox obfcene to gsping tombs retires. And favage howlings fill the facred quires. Awed by his nobles, by his commons curft. The opprefTor ruled tyrannic, where he durft ; Stretched o'er the poor, and church his iron rod. And ferved alike his vaffals, and his God. Whom even the Saxon fpared, and bloody Dane, The wanton viftims of his fport remain. But fee the man, whofe fpacious regions gave A wafle for beafts, denied himfelf a grave ! Stretched on the land his fecond hope furvey. At once the chafer, and at once the prey ; Lo ! Rufus, tugging at the deadly dart. Bleeds in the foreft, like a wounded hart. Windfor foreft. with ( 13 ) with private property — that the h'mits of others were very undefined — and laftly, when we refledt, how eafy a matter it was, by a ftretch of royal authority, to fix the locality of a trcfpafs in a foreft, tho it Vv^as never committed there; we may eafily conclude, from the whole, how fertile a fource of vexation foreft-law might be made, tho it merely refpeded game. But other grievances accrued. Many in- croachments were made on private property. Extravagant claims were pretended by foreft- officers ; and heavy tolls were levied on fuch merchandize, as pafied through the king's forefts, tho in fa6t, it could pafs in no other diredion*. Sometimes alfo needy prin- ces, (and moft of them were needy) with a view to raife money, would fend commifiioners purpofely to examine into foreft-trefpafies ; and on thefe occafions, we may be fure, there was always exaggeration enough. This accumulation of hardfhip was at all times deeply felt, and refented ; and whenever the reins of government flackened in the hands of a weak prince, the fpirit of the nation arofe. * See King John's charter of foreils. and ( H ) and endeavoured to refume its native rights, Succefs at laft attended thcfe repeated druggies. Foreft-Iaw was abolifhed > at lead its mifchie- vous eiFed:s were rcprelied. But if the people imagined this vi6lory would reinftate them in their native rights over the foreft, they were miftaken. A new ipecies of law, under the denomination of gatne-laWy arofe upon the ruins oi for eft -law. This law had from it's inflitution an arif- tocratic call:. For the barons and great men, who had wrefted the rigour of foreft-law from the prince, did not mean to free the people from the impofition ; but only to adminilter it themfelves : and thus a thoufand tyrants ftarted up indead of one. Some of the feverer penalties indeed were abolifiied. A man pre- ferved his eyes, or his hands, tho he killed a pheafant, or a partridge : but he was fined— he was imprifoned — his dog was fhot — his arms were taiven from him — and he was conti- nually teafed with vexatious fuits. Befides, as game-law was more extenfive than foreft- law, it involved greater numbers within it's influence. At ( '5 ) At the time, when forefi:-law was abolifhed, all the incroachments, which the crown hacJ made on the confines of forefts, were ^iveii back. Then it was that New-foreft was reduced within it's ancient bounds ; and all thofe lands, v/hich bordered on the bay of Southampton, the river Avon, and the fca, were reftored to their old poiTeilbrs. Thefe lands were then diftinguiHied by the name of the purlieus of the foreji -, and their owners, at leaft fome of them, by v/ay of indemnifi- cation for injuries received, enjoyed feveraf privileges, particularly the right of commoning^ in the foreftj and of kiihng trefpaffing deer, provided they were killed before they entered the forefl:, which was always efleemed their fandtuary*. The fliape of New-foreft Is a kind of irre- gular triangle, wide at the fouth, and drawing to a point towards the north ; contained Vv ithin a circumference of about fifty miles. It's limits on every fide are very accurately known, and defcribed : but, in a v/ork of this kind. * See Manwood on foreft-hw. it ( i6 ) it will anfwer no end, either of amufemcnt, or of utility, to walk it's bounds. So far indeed am I from intending to be accurate in this matter, that I propofe in the following defcriptive view of New-foreft, to take very great liberties with it's boundaries ; and to confider the foreft in it's ancient^ and mofl: extended Jiate, limited by the bay of South- ampton on the eaft; by the river Avon on the weft; and by the fea on the fouth. Without taking this liberty, I fliould lofe the defcription of fome of the moft beautiful icencry, that formerly belonged to it. But before I enter on the pidiurefque part of my work, it remains, as I have already given a fliort account of the ancient Jiate of New-foreft, to add a fhort account alfo of it's prefent Jiate ; it's government, demeifns, and inhabitants. SECT. ( 17 ) SECT. II. ■^HE government of New-fored is, at this time, nearly what it origii was, excepting only that the abolition of foreft-law hath retrained the power of it's officers*. The chief officer belonging to it, is the lord- warden, who is generally fjme perfon of great diftincStion. The prefent lord-warden is the duke of Glocefler. Under him are two diilindt appointments of officers -, the one to preferve the 'ue?iifG?i of the foreft j and the * I had many particulars with regard to the prefent ftate of New-foreft from Mr. Samber of caftle-Malwood lodge, who was intimately acquainted with it. After his death, his fon, Capt. Samber of the navy, obligingly put into my hands other ufeful papers, on the fame fubjed, which had belonged to his father. VOL.11, C Other ( i8 ) Other to preferve it's 'vert. The former term, in the language of foreft-law, includes all fpecies of game : the latter refpe6ls the woods, and lawns, which harbour, and feed them. Of thofe officers who fuperintend the game, are firft the two rangers. But the office of ranger', as well as that of bow-bearer, and a few others, have been long in difufe : at lead they feem to be delegated to the keepers : of thefe there are fifteen -, who prefide over as many ivalks, into which the foreil; is divided. In each walk is erected a lodge. A few of thefe lodges are elegant manfions ; and are the habitations of the keepers, who are generally men of fafhion, or fortune. Prince William of Glocefter has one; the duke of Bolton another ; and lord Delawar a third ; but in general, the lodges are but moderate buildings j and are inhabited by the under-keepers, or groom-keepers, as they are called; on whom the executive part of the keeper's office devolves. The under-keeper feeds the deer in winter— browzes them in fummer — knows where to find a fat buck — executes the king's warrants for venifon — prefents offences in the foreft- courts — and prevents the deftrudion of game. Ib ( 19 ) In this laft article his virtue is chiefly {hown ♦ and to this purpofe the men^ory of every found keeper fhould be furnifhed with this cabaliftic verfe. Stable -Hand; Dog- draw; Back- bear ; and Bloody-hand** It implies the feveral circumftances, in which offenders may be taken with the manner ^ as it is phrafed. If a man be found armed, and Rationed in feme fufpicious part of the foreft-— ^ or if he be found with a dog purfuing a flricken deer— or if he be found carrying a dead deer on his back — or laftly, if he be found bloody in the foreft; he is, in all thefe cafes, feizable; thb the fadt of killing a deer cannot be proved Upon him. The under-keeper alfo drives the foreft'y that is, he annually impounds all the cattle, that pafture in his walk ; and fees them examined, and properly marked. With regard to the woods of the foreft> which were originally confidered only as they fefpedted game, the firfl: officer, under the • See Manwood on foreft-law, ch. xviii. 9. C 2 lord-warden. ( 20 ) lord-warden, is tlie woodward. It is his bufinefs, as his title denotes, to infped: the woods. He prevents wafte — he fees that young trees are properly fenced — and he afllgns timber for the payment of foreft-oflicers. This timber is fold by auflion at the court at Lyndhurftj and annually amounts, to about fcy&n hundred pounds; which is the fum required. Under the woodward are twelve regarders y and to thefe indeed chletly is delegated the executive part of his ofhce. The regarders feize the hedge-bills, and axes of trefpalfers ; prefent offences in the forefl-courts ; and affign fuch tim.ber a^ is claimed by the inhabitants, and borderers of the foreH:, for fuel, and repairs. Of this inferior wood, there are great quantities affigned, on every fide of the foreft. I can only fpeak of my own affign- ment, as vicar of Boldre ; which is annually twelve load. Befides thefe officers, who are in effec^t the officers of the crown, as they are appointed by the lord-warden ; there are four others, called vcrdcrorSy who are commonly gentlemen of property and intereft in the neighbourhood, and are elci^ed, like the knights of the Aire, by the ( 21 ) the freeholders of tlie county. Thefe officers, fince the jujiiciary-in-eyre has been a finecure, are the only judges of the fored:- courts. The verderor is an ancient forcd-officer. His name occurs in the earlieft account of foreft-law. But tho his appointment has at prefcnt a democratical cafl", it is probable, that he was formerly a royal officer ; and that his eledion by the fi-ee-hoiders of the county was extorted from the crown in fome period favourable to liberty. As New-foreft was alv/ays confidered as the great magazine of navy timber, the verderors were impowered by an act of par- liament in king William's time, to fine delinquents to the amount of five pounds in their attachment- courts : whereas in all tlie other forefts of England, the fine does not amount to more than a few pence, which was the original amerfement. The 'u^r- deror is an officer without falary : but by ancient cuflom he was entitled to courfe, and take v/hat deer he pleafed, in his w^y to the foreft-court : but this privilege is now com- pounded by an annual fee of a buck, and a doe. Befides thefe ancient officers of the forcft, there is one of later inftitution, fince timber became valuable as a material. He is called C 3 the ( 22 ) the piirveyoi', and is appointed by the com- miffioiiCr of the dock at Portfniouth. His bufinefs is to aflign timber for the ufe of the navy. The orit'in of the purveyor is not earlier than the reign of Charles II. in whofe time five hundred oaks, and fifty beeches were annually affigned for the king's yards ; and this officer was appointed to affign them. But it being found, that the forefl could ill fupply fo large a quantity of oak -, inflead of five hundred, the number was afterwards reduced to fixty; which together with fifty beeches, are ftill annually affigned*. The purveyor has a falary of fifty por.nds a year ; and fix and eight-pence a day, when on duty. I ffiall conclude this account of the officers of the forell with the fingular character of one of them, who lived in the times of James, and Charles I. It is preferved in Hutchin's hiftory of Dorfetffiire-f*. The name of this memorable fportfman, for in that charadler alone he w^as confpicuous, was Henry Haftings. He was fecond fon to the earl of Huntingdon ; and inherited a good ♦ Mr. Samber's MS. -j- See vol. ii. p. 6^. eflate ( 23 ) cftate in Dorfetfliire from his mother. He was one of the keepers of New-foreft; and refided in his lodge there, during a part of every hunting-feafon. But his principal refi- dence was at Woodlands, in Dorfetfliire, where he had a capital manfion. One of his nearefl: neighbours, was the lord chancellor Cooper, firft earl of Shaftfbury. Two men could not be more oppofite in their difpoHtions, and purfuits. They had little communication therefore j and their occafional meetings were rendered more difagreeable to both, from their oppofite fentiments in politics. Lord Shaft- fbury, who was the younger man, was the furvivor ; and the following account of Mr. Haftings, which I have fomewhat abridged, is faid to have been the produdion of his pen. Mr. Haftings was low of ftature, but very ilrong, and very adtive ; of a ruddy com- plexion, with flaxen hair. His cloaths were always of green cloth. His houfe was of the old fafliion ; in the midft of a large park, well flocked with deer, rabbits, and fifli-ponds. He had a long narrow bowling-green, in it; and ufed to play with round fand-bowls. Here too he had a banquetting-room built, C 4 like ( 24 ) like a fland, in a large tree. He kept all forts of hounds, that ran buck, fox, hare, otter, and baciger^ and had hawks of all kinds, both long, and fliort winged. His gi'eat hall was commonly ftrewed with marrow-bones ; and full of hawk-perches, hounds, fpaniels, and terriers. The upper end of it was hung with fox-flvins of this, and the laft year's killing. Here, and there a pole-cat w^as intermixed -, and hunter's poles in great abun- dance. The parlour was a large room, compleatly furniflied in the fame ftile. On a broad hearth, paved with brick, lay fome of the choiceft terriers, hounds, and fpaniels. One or two of the great chairs, had litters of cats in them, which were not to be dif- turbed. Of thefe three or four always attended him at dinner -, and a little white wand lay by his trencher, to defend it, if they were too troublefome. In the windows, which were very large, lay his arrows, crofs-bows, and other accoutrements. The corners of the room were filled with his beft huntins:, and hawking poles. His oiflcr- table flood at the lower end of the room, which was in conftant ufe twice a day, all the year round ; for he never failed to eat oifters both at dinner, and ( 25 ) and flipper ; with which the neighbouring town of Pool fupplied him. At the upper end of the room ftood a fmall table with a double deilv ; one fide of which held a church-bible^ the other, the book of martyrs. On diiierent tables in the room lay hawk's- hoods ; bells ; old hats, with their crowns thruft in, full of pheafant eggs ; tables ; dice ; cards ; and ftore of tobacco-pipes. At one end of this room was a door, uhlch opened into a clofet ; where flood bottles of ilrong beer, and wine; which never came out but in lingle glaiies, which was the rule of the houfe; for he never exceeded himfelf; nor permitted others to exceed. Anfwering to this clofet, was a door into an old chapel; which had been long difufed for devotion ; but in the pulpit, as the fafefl place, u'as always to be found a cold chine of beef, a venifon-pafly, a gammon of bacon, or a great apple-pye, with thick crufl:, well- baked. His table coft him not much, tho it was good to eat at. His fports fupplied all, but beef and mutton ; except on fridays, when he had - the beft of iifh. He never wanted a London pudding ; and he always fang it in with, ** My part lies therein- a J* He drank a glafs Gr ( 26 ) or two of wine at meals ; put fyrup of gilly- flowers into his fack ; and had always a tun- glafs of fmall-beer (landing by him, which he often flirred about with rofemary. He lived to be an hundred; and never loft his eye- fight, nor ufed fpecflacles. He got on horfe-back without help -, and rode to the death of the flag, till he was paft fourfcore. SECT. ( 27 ) SECT. III. HAVING given an account of the go- vernment, and officers of New-forefl in the laft fecflion, I ihall now examine the ilate of it's demeifns*, and inhabitants. The * In the year 1788, a furvey cf New-forefl was taken, by order of the commiffioners of the land-revenue of the Crown ; in which furvey the following account was given in of it's contents. Acres. Foreft-Iands — — — — — — 63845 Lands held with lodges - ■ 1192 Incroachments ■ ■ — — 900 Leafeholds under the Crown — — ■ ■ 1003 Freeholds, and other intermediate property — 25422 Total within the perambulation ■ 92362 A few fraftions, which make about two or three acres more I have omitted. From this furvey a fplendid map of New- forefl ( 28 ) The foil of New-foreft, which is in general a fandy loam, is well adapted to the produdlion of oak- timber. This tra6l of woody country therefore hath long been confidered, as one of the great magazines for the navy. It was formerly thought to be inexhauftible ; but by degrees it was obferved, that it began to fail. So early as in queen Elizabeth's reign, Man wood tells us, that ** the flender, and negligent execu-tion of the foreft-law hath been the decay, and dellrudion (in almoil all places within this realm) of great wood and timber ; the want whereof, as well in this prefent time, as in time to come, fliall ap- pear in the navy of this realm*," In queen Elizabeth's reign Man wood's remark was fpefculation ; but in the reign of Charles II, it took the air of predidion. The decay of timber; which had long been gradually coming on, began then to be felt. foreft has been engraved (by order of the commiffioners,) by William Faden, geographer to the king ; in which the curious may fee the boundaries, and contents of New-foreil, uith all the lands granted by the crown, the leafe-holds, and in- croachments, very accurately afcertained. ♦ See Mamvood on forcll-Iaw, chap. ii. 6. It's ( 29 ) It's fources failed, as the demand increafed. In mofl: commodities the demands of a m.arket immediately produce a fupply ; but timber requires ages to make it marketable. It may be added, that the navy magazines had not then thofe refources, which they have fince found. Timber was with didiculty brought from the inland parts of the country, on account of the badnefs of the roads — little foreign timber was imported — and what ren- dered the evil more confpicuous, in Charles's time, the nation was on the eve of a naval war. Such prefiing neceffity urged fbrongly the propriety of making provilion for a future fupply. Charles, who had a fort of turn for ihip-building, and had on that account, a kind of afted:ion for the navy, was eafily induced to iffue an order, under his fign manual, to fir John Norton, woodward of .New-foreft, to inclofe three hundred acres of wafte, as a nurfery for young oak* ; the expence of which was to be defrayed by the fale of decayed wood. This order bears date december 13th, 1669. ♦ Mr. Samber'3 MS. But ( 3° ) But tho the Inclofure, here fpecified, W3S Irifling in itfelf, yet it had the merit of a new projed:, and led to farther improvements* A few years afterwards the fame idea was taken up, on a more enlarged fcale. In the loth of king William, an ad: pafled, im- powering certain commiiTioners to inclofe two thoufand acres in Nev^-foreft for the growth of timber ; and two hundred more, every year; for the fpace of twenty years after- wards. This provident a6l was as well executed, as it had been projected. A very confiderable part of the quantity prefcribed, at lead four thoufand acres, were inclofed, and planted-f-, and the timber of thefe inclofures is now fecure from all danger j and is thrown out again into the foreft. None of it hath yet been felled, as it is not yet in a flate of perfedion -, but it is in a very flourishing con- f In Burley-walk above fix hundred acres were inclored— ^ in Rhinefield-walk the fame number — in Boldre-wood-walk above four hundred— in Egworth-walk one thoufand — in Bram- blc-hill-walk above feven hundred — in Dlnney-walk above five hundred— in Callle-Malwood-walk a quantity not afcertained, Mr. Samber's MS. dition ; ( 31 ) ditlon; and is at this day the glory of the foreft. In the reigns of queen Ann, and George I, I believe, no new plantations were made; which is the more to be wondered at, as the fevere hurricane in the november of the year 1703 did great injury in New-foreft. Not fewer than four thoufand of it's beft oaks were deftroyed*, together with great quantities of growing timber. In the reign of George II, three inclofures were made : but they were injudicioufly, or didioneftly managed ; and Mr. Coleman, who undertook the bufniefs, was fined in the foreft-court at Lyndhurft, by the vcrderors, for his neglecft-f*. Some attempts have been made in the prefent reign : but for want of being properly planned, or honeftly managed, very little advantage hath accruedj. The * See Evelin's Sylva. f Mr. Samber's MS. I In the year 1782 an inquiry was inllituted, by an order from the treafury, into the quantities of navy-timber in New- foreft — that is, fuch timber, as would meafure thirty-five cubic feet. The quantity given in, after a very nice furvey, was fifty-two thoufand load. Forty cubic feet make a load. ^~ At the fame time the timber in Dean-foreft was furveyed ; which. ( 32 ) The great defcd: indeed here, as in other national matters, is the want of honefty. Public affairs become private jobs. Large inclofures have been made merely to inrich the undertakers by the profits of inclofing ; or the plunder of the underwood. Jt is faid, that altho the fiourifhing plantations made by king William, are at this time, receiving injury from growing too clofe ; they are rather fuffered to continue as they are, than to run the hazard of being diflioneftly thinned. For it has fometimes been found, that in thin- ning trees, the beft, inftead of the worft, have been removed : nor can any thing prevent fuch m.ifchief, but the care, and honefty of forefl-officers, and the perfons they employ. What a general rapacity reigns in forefts, may be conceived from the devaftation, which even inferior officers have been able to com- mit. Not many years ago, two men, of the name of Batten, father and fon, fuc- ceeded each other, in the office of under- keeper, in one of the forefl- walks. . The under-keeper is fuppofed to cut holm, and which, tho of much fmaller dimenfions than Ncw-forefl, con- tained fixty-two thoufand load. Other ( 33 ) Other under-wood of little valae, to browzf his deer ; and when the rind, and fpray are eaten off, he faggots the dry fticks for his own ufe. But thefe fellows cut down the young timber of the foreft, without dif- tindlion, and without meafure, which they made up into faggots, and fold : and for this paltry gain I have been informed, they com- mitted wafte in the foreft eftimatcd at fifty thoufand pounds damage. The calculation feems large : but we may well imagine, that in the unremitted courfe of fixty or feventy years, great mifchief might be done. For tho a young fapling may not intrinfically be worth more than half a crown ; yet the great difficulty of getting another thriving plant to occupy it's room in the forell:, raifes it's con- fequence to the public much beyond it's mere fpecific value. But the decay of forefts is not owing folely either to the legal confumer, or the rapa- cious trefpafTer. The oak of the foreft will fometimes naturally fail. Mr. Evelin re- marks*, that every foreft, in which oak. • See his Sylva. VOL. II, D and ( 34 ) and beech grow promifcuoufly, will in a courfe of ages become intirely beechen. If this be a juft remark, the oak, we are to fuppofe, has not fo ftrong a vegetative power, as the beech ; which, in time prevails over the whole. Whatever truth there may be in the obfervation, certain it is, that this appearance of decay is found in many of the wood-lands of New-foreft, which confifl chiefly of beech, and unthriving oak. Befides thefe fources of mifchief, the woods of the foreft are fubjed: to another, that of fire. In fultry weather, it's furzy heaths are very combuftible ; and the neighbouring cottagers are fuppofed fometimes to fet them purpofely on fire to make pafturage more plentiful. The danger arifes from the dif- ficulty of flopping thefe fires, which will fometimes continue burning, more or lefs, at the mercy of the wind, during feveral days. In the early part of the fummer 1785, which was remarkably dry, many of thefe fires were lighted, particularly one near Fri- tham, which did great damagef*. From f The following was an advcrtifement from the lords of the treafury on Uiis occaiioa. ** Whereas ( 35 ) From thefe, and other caufes, many parts of this extenfive forefl are now in a ilate of extreme decay; being overfpread merely v/ith hohiies, underwood, and flunted trees, which in the memory of man were full of excellent oak*. In planting oak, it hath been a doubt, whether it is more judicious to fow the acorn, after incloling, and grubbing the ground— ** Whereas on friday night, the 29th of april lafl:, feme perfon or perfons, did malicioufly, and audaciou/ly, fet fire to one of the inclofures near Fritham, in New-foreft, whereby a very large number of young oak and beech trees growing therein, and part of the fence thereof, were dellroyed ; notice is hereby given that any perfon who will give information of the perfon, or perfons who fet fire to the aforefaid inclcfure, except the perfon, or perfons who committed the fame, fo as he, or they may be brought to juftice, fhall, on conviflion of the offender, or offenders, receive the reward of forty pounds. Whereas alfo the heaths and furze in feveral other parts of the faid forefl have been lately fet on fire, whereby large trafts thereof, and many young trees growing thereon, have been deftroyed; notice is hereby given, that a reward of five pounds will be paid to any perfon, or perfons, upon whofe information, the perfon or perfons, who fet fire to the fame, fhall be convi<5led. The rewards aforefaid to be paid, on conviction of the effenders, by Mr. Tombes deputy-furveyor of the foreft." Lyndhurft, June 2d, 1 785. • Mr. Samber's MS. D 2 ©r ( 36 ) or to fow it, without either operation. In the wild parts of the foreft, in the midft of thorn -buflies, and holHes, which will defend the fapling from cattle, till it be able to ftand alone; and will draw it in it's early ftate to much quicker maturity, than it can arrive at without fuch fhelter. The latter w^ay of fowing acorns, in the wild parts of the forefl, is not fo fure, but much larger quan- tities may be fown at a much lefs expence ; and if one tenth part of the acorns fucceed, the faving is great on an equal quantity of timber. I cannot however help doubting the efficacy of this mode of raifing timber; tho I have often heard fenfible people, who have lived in the neighbourhood of the foreft, fpeak favourably of it : and it is certain that timber is often raifed fortultoufly in this manner. We fee in the wild parts of the foreft, trees, which have attained the growth of ten, twenty, or thirty years, as far as we can judge, without any aid: and we are at a lofs to know, how nature manages a work of this kind, and rears this ex- pofed part of her offspring, amidft deer, and cattle. And yet we fee the fame kind pro- vidence in a higher part of the creation. We ( 37 ) We fee the children of the cottage, expofed to mifchief on every lide, and continually running rifles, which delicate mothers would tremble at : yet befriended by a gracious protedor, they get forward in life, and attain maturity, like the wildings of the foreft, in a manner, which they who fpeculate only on human means, cannot eafily conceive. In planting the foreft, feme again have been advocates for uniting the two modes I have fpecified. The ground is inclofed, but not grubbed, and the acorns fown at random. The late duke of Bedford, when he was lord warden, was very intent on raifing timber in this fortuitous manner. He merely inclofed and left it to chance to £11 his inclofures. But I do not find that any of them have fucceeded. If the ground were inclofed, and a fpot here and there, grubbed, in which two or three acorns were fown ; and fome little care taken afterwards of the infant-wood, it miglit be of all others, per- haps, the moft certain, and the leaft expenlive, way of raifing timber. D 3 But ( 33 ) But the iDoods of the fcrcfl: have not alone been the objedts of devaftation ; it's lands alfo have fuffered. After the foreft had loft it's great legal fupport, and reafons of flate obliged the monarch to feek his amufements nearer home, the extent of thefe royal de- meifns began infenfibly to diminifh. New- foreft, among others, was greatly curtailed. Large portions of it were given away in grants by the crown. Many gentlemen have houfes in it's interior parts -, and their te- nants are in polleffion of well cultivated farms. For tho the foil of New-foreft is, in general, poor -, yet there are fome parts of it, which very happily admit culture. Thus the forefl has fuffered in many places, what it's ancient laws confidered as the greateft of all mifchiefs, under the name of an afjart* ; a word, which fignifies grubbing up it's coverts, and copfes, and turning the harbours of deer into arable land. A flop however is now put to all grants from the * See Manwood, ch. ix. fee. i. crown. ( 39 ) crown. The crown-lands became public property under the care of the treafury, when the civil lift was fettled. The king can only grant leafes for thirty years; and the parliament feldom interferes in a longer ex- tenfion, except on particular occafions. Befides thefe defalcations arifing from the bounty of the crown, the foreft is continually preyed on by the incroachments of inferior people. There are multitudes of trefpaffers, on every fide of it, who build their little huts, and inclofe their little gardens, and patches of ground, without leave, or cere- mony of any kind. The under-keepers, who have conftant orders to deftroy all thefe in- clofures, now and then affert the rights of the foreft by throwing down a fence; but it requires a legal procefs to throw down a houfe, of which polTeffion has been taken. The trefpafTer therefore here, as on other waftes, is careful to rear his cottage, and get into it as quickly as polTible. I have known all the materials of one of thefe ha- bitations brought together — the houfe built — covered in — the goods removed — a fire kindled — and the family in pofTeffion, during the courfe of a moon-light night. Some^ D 4 time* ( 40 ) times indeed, where the trefpafs is incon- fiderable, the poflelTor has been allowed to pay a fine for his land in the court of Lynd^ hurfl. But thefe trefpafies are generally in the outlliirts of the foreil; or in the neigh- bourhood of fome little hamlet. They are never fuffered in the interior parts ; where no lands are alienated from the crown, except in regular grants. The many advantages, which the borderers on forefls enjoy, fuch as rearing cattle, and hogs, obtaining fuel at an eafy rate, and procuring little patches of land for the trouble of inclofing it, would add much, one ihould imagine, to the comfort of their lives. But in fad: it is otherwife. Thefe advanta2;es procure them not half the enjoyments of common day-labourers. In general, they are an indolent race; poor and wretched in the extreme. Inftead of having the regular re* turns of a week's labour to fubfift on, too many of them depend on the precarious fupply ©f foreft pilfer. Their oftenfible bufmefs is commonly to cut furze, and carry it to the neighbouring brick-kilns; for which purpofe they keep a team of two or three foreft-horfes : while their collateral fupport is deer-flealing, poaching. ( 41 ) poaching, Or purloining timber. In this lafl occupation they are faid to have been fo expert, that, in a night's time, they would have cut down, carried off, and lodged fafely in the hands of fome receiver, one of the largefl oaks of the foreft. But the depredations, which have been made in timber, along all the fkirts of the foreft, have rendered this fpecies of theft, at prefent, but an unprofitable employment. In poaching, and deer-flealing they often find their beil account ; in all the arts of which many of them are well pa(ftifed. From their ealieft youth they learn to fct the trap, and the gin for hares, and pheafants ; to infnare deer by hanging hooks, baited with apples, from the boughs of trees ; and (as they became bolder proficients,) to watch the herd with fire-arms, and fingle out a fat buck, as he pafies the place of their con- cealment. In wild rugged countries, the mountaneer forms a very different character from the forefter. He leads a life of labour : he pro- cures nothing without it. He has neither time for idlenefs, and difhoneft arts ; nor meets with any thing to allure him into them. But the forefter, who has the temptation of plunder ( 42 ) plunder on every fide, finds it eafier to tref- pafs, than to work. Hence, the one becomes often a rough, manly ingenuous peafantj the other a fupple, crafty, pilfering knave. Even the very prad:ice of following a night-oc- cupation leads to mifchief. The nightly wanderer, unlefs his mind be engaged in fome neceffary bufinefs, will find many temp- tations to take the advantage of the incautious fecurity of thofe who are aQeep. From thefe confiderations Mr. St. John draws an argument for the fale of foreft-lands. ** Poverty, fays he, will be changed into affluence — the cottager will become a farmer — the wildernefs will be converted into rich paftures, and fertile fields ; furnifhing provifions for the country, and employment for the poor. The borders, and confines of forefts will ceafe to be nur- feries for county-goals -, the trefpafier will no longer prey upon the vert -, nor the vagabond, and out- law on the 'uenifon. Nay the very foil itfelf will not then be gradually loft, and ftolen, by purprejiures, and ajfarts. Thus forefts, which were formerly the haunts of robbers, and the fcenes of violence, and rapine. ( 43 ) rapine, may be converted into the receptacles of honeft induftry."* I had once fome occafional intercourfe with a foreft-borderer, who had formerly been a noted deer-ftealer. He had often (hke the deer-flealer in the play) - ~ ■- -ftruck a doe. And born her cleanly by the keeper's nofe. Indeed he had been at the head of his pro- feffion; and daring a reign of five years, affured me, he had killed, on an average, not fewer than an hundred bucks a year. At length he was obliged to abfcond ; but compofing his affairs, he abjured his trade, and would fpeak of his former arts without referve. He has oftener than once confefTed the fins of his youth to me; from which an idea may be formed of the my fiery of deer- flealing, in it's highefb mode of perfection. In his excurfions in the forefl he carried with him a gun, which fcrewed into three parts, and which he could eafily conceal in the lining of his coat. Thus armed he would See obfervations on the land-revenue of the crown, p. i68. drink ( 44 ) drink with the under-keepers without fuf- picion ; and when he knew them engaged, would fecurely take his fland in feme diftant part, and mark his buck. When he had killed him, he would draw him afide into the bullies, and fpend the remaining part of the day in a neighbouring tree, that he might be fure no fpies were in the way. At night he fecreted his plunder. He had boarded off a part of his cottage, (forming a rough door into it, like the reft of the partition, ftruck full of falfe nail-heads,) with fuch artifice, that the keepers, on an information, have fearched his houfe again and again, and have gone off fatisfied of his innocence j tho his fecret larder perhaps at that very time con- tained a brace of bucks. He had always, he faid, a quick market for his venifon; for the country is as ready to purchafe it, as thefe fellows are to procure it. It is a foreft-adage of ancient date, non ejl i?iquirendum unde venit 'venifon. The incroachments of trefpaffers, and the houfes, and fences thus raifed on the borders of the foreft, tho, at this time, in a degree connived at, were heretofore conlidered as great nuifances by the old foreft-law, and were ( 45 ) were verj^ feverely punirtied under the name oi furpreftureSy * as tending ad terrorem Jera~ nun — ad nccumcntiim forejia — and, as might be added, at this time, by the neighbouring paridies, ad incrementum fauperum. When a ilranger therefore rears one of thefe fudden fabricks, the parifli-officers make him provide a certificate from his own parifh, or they remove him. But the mifchief commonly arifes from a parifhioner's railing his cottage,, and afterwards felHng it to a flrangcr, whicia may give him paridi-rights. Thefe incroacli- ments however are evils of fo long Ixanding, that at this day they hardly admit a remedy. Many of thefe little tenements have been fo long occupied, and have paiTed through fo many hands, that the occupiers are now ia fecure poffeiTion. Where the manor of Beaulieu-a:bbey is railed from the foreft, a large fettlement of this kind runs in fcattered cottages, at leaft a mile along the rails. This neft of in- 'Croac'hers the late duke of Bedford, when lord- warden of the foreft, rtfolved to roat * See Manwood, chapter x. fee. i", out. ( 46 ) out. But he met with fuch fturdy, and determined oppofition from the foreflers of the hamlet, who amounted to more than two hundred men, that he was obhged to delift-f- — whether he took improper meafures, as he was a man of violent temper, — or whether no meafures, which he could have taken, would have been efFedual in repreffing fo inveterate an evil. And yet in fome circumftances, thefe little tenements (incroach- ments as they are, and often the nurferics of idlenefs) give pleafure to a benevolent breaft. When we fee them, as we fometimes do, the habitations of innocence, and induftry; and the means of providing for a large family with eale, and comfort, we are pleafed at the idea of fo much utility and happinefs, arifmg from a petty trefpafs on a wafte, which cannot in itfelf be confidered as an injury. I once found, in a tenement of this kind, an ancient widow, whofe little ftory pleafed me. — Her folitary dwelling flood fweetly in a dell, on the edge of the foreft. Her hufband had himfelf reared it, and led her to it, as the t Mr. Samber's MS. habitation J ( 47 ) habitation of her life. He had made a garden in the front, planted an orchard at one end, and a few trees at the other, which in forty years had now fhielded the cottage, and almoft concealed it. In her early youth fhe had been left a widow with two fons, and a daughter, whofe flender education (only what (he herfelf could give them) was almoft her whole em- ployment : and the time of their youth, fhe faid, was the pleafanteft time of her life. As they grew up, and the cares of the world fubiided, a fettled piety took polTellion of her mind. Her age was opprefTed with infirmity, ficknefs, and various afflidiions in her family. In thefe diftrefles, her bible was her great comfort. I vifited her frequently in her laft illnefs, and found her very intelligent in fcripture, and well verfed in all the gofpel- topics of confolation. For many years fhe every day read a portion of her bible, feldom any other book; Juft knew, and knew no more, her bible true; And in that charter read with fparkling eyes. Her title to a treafure in the fkies. When fhe met with pafTages, flie did not underfland, at one time, or other, fhe faid, fhe often heard them explained at church. — The ( 48 ) The flory feems to evince how very fufficient plain fcripture is, unafTiiled with other helps, except fuch as are publicly provided, to adnii- nifter both the knowledge, and the comforts of religion even to the lowefl clalfes of people. The dialed; of Hampfliire has a particular tendency to the corruption of proj:iouns, by confounding their cafes. This corruption prevails through the country; but it feems to increafe as we approach the fea. About the neighbourhood of New-foreft this Doric hath attained it's perfediion. I have oftencr than once met with the following tender elegiac in church-yards. Him fhall never come again to we : But us fhall furely, one day, go to he. Having thus given a (hort account of the prefent ftate of New-foreft, and it's inhabitants, I haften to the more agreeable part of my work, the defcription of it's fcenery. I have already apprized the reader*, that I propofe • See p. 16, to ( 49 ) to confider it's boundaries in their widefl: extent, as advancing to the bay of Southamp- ton on the eaft ; to the river Avon on the weft ; and to the fea on the fouth. Within equal limits perhaps few parts of England afford a greater variety of beautiful landfcape. It's woody fcenes, it's extended lawns, and vaft fweeps of wild country, unlimited by artificial boundaries, together with it's river- views, and diftant coafts 3 are all in a great degree magnificent. It muft ftill however be remembered, that it's chief charadleriftic, and what it refts on for diftindion, is not fublimityt but fylvan beauty. But before I enter on a particular defcription of the fcenery of New-foreft, in a pidurefque light, it may not be improper to give the reader a kind of table of contents of what he is to expecft. VOL. II. E SECT. 1 c c ( 5' ) SECT. IV. ON looking into a map of New-foreft, and drawing an imaginary line from Ringwood on the Avon, to Dibden on the bay of Southampton, the u^hole foreft eafily divides itfelf into four parts. That diftridt, which lies north of this imaginary line, we may call one part. The river Avon, and Lymington-river make the boundaries of a fecond : Lymington-river, and Beaulieu-river of a third : and the country between this lafl river, and the bay of Southampton, may be conlidered as a fourth. When I fpoke of forefts in general, as confifting of large trads of heathy- land, and carpet-lawns, interfperfed with woods*. ♦ See vol. I. p. 210. E 2 I had ( 52 ) ' I had a particular view to the fcenery of Nevv-foreft, which is precifely of this kind. It's lawns and woods are every where divided by large diftrids of heath. Many of thefe woods have formerly been, as many of the heaths at prefent are, of vaft extent; run- ning feveral miles without interruption. Dif- ferent parts too both of the open, and of the woody country, are fo high, as to command extenfive diftances, tho no part can in any degree afl'ume the title of mountainous. Along the banks of the Avon, from Ringwood to the fea, the whole furface is flat, inclofed, and cultivated. There is little beauty in this part. Eaftward from Chrifl- church, along the coaft, as far as to the eftuary of Lymington- river we have alfo a continued fiat. Much heathy ground is in- terfperfed; but no woody fcenery, except in fome narrow glen, through which a ri- vulet happens to find it's way to the fea. In two or three of thefe there is fome beauty. Here the coaft, which is expofed to the ocean, and formed by the violence of florms, is edged by a broken cliiF, from >vhich ( 53 ) which are prefented grand fea-views, fome-ii times embellifhed with winding fhores. As we leave the coad, and afcend more into the mid-land parts of this divifion, the fcenery improves. The ground is more varied j woods and lawns are interfperfed : and many of them are among the moft beautiful exhibitions of this kind, which the foreft prefents. In the next divifion, which is contained between the rivers of Lymington, and Beaulieu, we have alfo great variety of beautiful country. The coaft indeed is flat, and unedged with cliif ; as it lies oppofite to the ifle of Wight, which defends it from the violence of the ocean : but the views it prefents, are fometimes interefting. It is wooded in many parts almofl to the water's cdgt ; and the ifland appearing like a diftant range of mountains, gives the channel the form of a grand lake. As we leave the fea, the ground rifes, and the woods take more poiTeflion of it, cfpecialiy along the banks of the two rivers I have juft mentioned, which afford on each fide for a confiderable fpace, many beautiful fcenes. There are heathy grounds in this E 3 diftridt ( 54 ) diftrid^ alfo ; but they occupy chiefly the middle parts between thefe two tracts of wood-land. In that divifion of New-foreft, which Is confined by Beaulieu-river, and the bay of Southampton, the mid-land parts are heathy as in the lailj but the banks, and vicinity both of the river, and the bay, are woody, and full of beautiful fcenery. This divlfion is perhaps, on the whole, the moft interefting of the foreft. For befides it's woods, there is greater variety of ground, than in any other part. Here alfo are grander water- views, than are exhibited any where elfe. The views along the banks of Beaulieu-river, it has in common with the lafl divlfion ; but thofe over the bay of Southampton, are wholly it's own. One difagreeable cir- cumftance attends all the fea-views, which are oppofite to the ille of Wight, and that is, the ouzinefs of the beach, when the fea retires. A pebbly, or a fandy (hore, has as good an effed: often when the fea ebbs, as when it is full — fometimes perhaps a better : but an ouzy one has an unpleafant hue. However this fhore is one of the bell of the ( ss ) the kind ^ for the ouze here is generally covered with green fea-weed, which as the tide retires, gives it the appearance of level land deferted by the fea, and turned into meadow. But thefe lands are meadows only in furface ; for they have no paftoral accompaniments. The northern divifion of New-forefl contains all thofe parts, which lie north of Ringwood and Dibden. As this diftrid; is at a diftance from the fea, and not interfered by any river, whch defer ves more than the name of a brook, it is adorned by no water- views, except near Dibden, where the foreft is bounded by the extremity of the bay of Southampton. The want of water however is recompenfed by grand woody fcenes, in which this part of the foreft equals, if not exceeds, any other part. In noble diftances alfo it excels -, for here the ground fwells higher, than in the more maritime parts ; and the diftances, which thefe heights com- mand, coniift often of vafl extenlive foreft-^ fcenes. 4 Befides ( S6 ) Befides the heaths, lawns, and woods, of which the foreft is compofed, there is another kind of furface found in many parts, which comes under none of thefe denominations, and that is the bog. Many parts of the foreft abound in fprings ; and as thefe lands have ever been in a ftate of nature, and of courfe undrained, the moiflure drains itfelf into the low grounds, where, as ufual in other rude countries, it becomes foft, and fpongy, and generates bogs. Thefe in fome< places are very extenfive. In the road between Brokenhurft, and Ringwood, at a place called Longflade bottom; one of thefe bogs extends three miles, without in- terruption, and is the common drain of all thofe parts of the foreft. In landfcape indeed the bog is of little prejudice. It has in general the appearance of common verdure. But the traveller muft be on his guard. Thefe trad:s of deceitful ground are often dangerous to fuch as leave the beaten roads ; and traverfe the paths of foreft. A horfe-track is not always the clue of fecurity. It is perhaps only beaten by the little foreft-horfe, which will venture into a bog in queft of better herbage -, and his lightnefs ( 57 ) lightnefs fecures him in a place, where a larger horfe, under the weight of a rider, would flounder. If the traveller therefore meet with a horfe-path, pointing into a fwamp, even tho he fhould obferve it to emerge on the other fide, he had better relinquifh it. The onlj track he can prudently follow, is that of wheels. Having thus prefented the reader with a general view of New-foreft, I fliall nov/ en- deavour to give him a more intimate acquain- tance with it, and fhall lead him into fome of it's moft beautiful fcenes. Nor was the beauty of the foreft a matter of no concern, even at a time, when we might have fuppofed the pleafures of the chafe ingrofled men's whole attention, ** There are three fpecial caufes, fays Manwood, why the foreft-lavvs have fo carefully provided for the preservation of the vert of the foreil. The firft is for the fake of cover for the deer. The fecond for the fake of the acorns, mart, &c. which feed them. The third is, propter decor em, for the comelinefs and beauty of the fame in a foreft. For the very fight, and beholding of the goodly ( ss ) goodly green, and pleafant woods in a foref?:^ is no lefs pleafant, and delightful in the eye of a prince, than the view of the wild beafts of chafe ; and therefore the grace of a foreft is to be decked and trimmed up with ftore of pleafant green coverts*." One fhould fcarce have exped:ed fuch a paflage as this in a law-book. On fuch authority however, I hope, I may confider the fcenery of the forefl: as effential to the very exigence of it; and fhall proceed with more confidence, in the defcription of tbofe goodly green, and pleafant woodsy the fight and beholding ivhereof is fo comely and delightful. In this detail I fhall rarely go in queft of views into the intricacies, and receffes of the forefl. Thefe fweet retreats would often fur- nifh a great variety of pleaiing fcenes ; but it would be difficult to afcertain, and point them out to the obfervation of others. I fball fatisfy myfelf therefore with following the great roads, or, at leaf!:, fuch as are commonly known, where views may eaiily be afcertained ; referving only the liberty of flepping a little Manwood, chap. vi. afide. ( 59 ) afide, when any thing of peculiar excellence deferves attention. 1 fliould in this detail alio purfue my rout through the foreft, with a careful eye to the arbitrary divifion I have made of it, into four parts* ; but as the roads will not always admit fuch exa(flnefs, I muft be content to follow the rout prefcribed by the furveyors of the high- ways; keeping within the divifion I have prefcribed, as nearly as I can. • See page 51. 1 ( 6i ) SECT. V. Remarks on the weftern parts of New-foreft, from Vicar's-hill to Ringwoodj and from thence, through Chrift-church to Lymington. FROxM Vicar's-hill, we palTed Boldre- bridge, and afcending the oppolite bank, called Rope-hill, to Battramfly, we had a- beautiful view of the eftuary of Lymington river; which when filled with the tide, forms a grand fweep to the fea. It is feen to mofl advantage from the top of the hill, a few yards out of the road on the right. The valley, through which the river flows, is broad; it's fcreens are not lofty, but well varied, and woody. The curves of the river are marked by long projedlions of low land, and on one or two of them fome little faltern, or ( ^2 ) or other building is ere(fted, which breaks the lines. The diftance is formed by the fea, and the ifle of Wight. All together the view is pidturefque. It is what the painter properly calls a whole. There is a fore-ground, a middle-ground, and diftance — all harmonioufly united. We have the fame view, only varied by pofition, from many high grounds in the neighbourhood ; but I know not, that it appears to fuch advantage any where as from this hill. At Battramfly we join the London-road. From hence to Brokenhurft, the foreft exhibits little more than a wild heath, Ikirted -here and there with diftant wood. Brokenhurft is a pleafant forefl-village, lying in a bottom, adorned with lawns, groves, and rivulets, and furrounded on the ...higher grounds by vaft woods. From the church-yard an expanded view opens over the whole. On the left rife the woods of Hin- -chelfea, and adjoining to thefe, the woods of -Rhinville. The centre is occupied by the high grounds of Boldre-wood. The little fpeck juft itzvi among them, is a fummer-houfe, built by lord Delawar to command a foreft- tview. The houfe among the woods on the right ( 63 ) right is Cuffnel's, the feat of Mr. Rofe; and ftill more to the right, are the woods of Lyndhurft. At the entrance of Brokenhurfl, a little to the right, Mr. Morant's houfe commands a very grand, and pid:urefque foreft-vievv. Both the fore- ground, and the diftance, are com- plete. The former is an elevated park-fcene, confifting of great variety of ground ; well- planted; and defcending gently into the plain below. Among the trees, which adorn it, are a few of the oldeft, and mod venerable oaks of the foreft. I doubt not but they chronicle on their furrowed trunks ages before the conqueft. From this grand fore-ground is prefented an extenfive foreft-view. It confifts of a wide range of flat pafturage (one of the fpreading lawns of the foreft*) garniHied with tufted clumps and woody promontories fliooting into it ; and contrafted by immenfe woods, which occupy all the rifmg grounds above it, and * See page 210. circle ( 64 ) circle the horizon. The contraft between the open, and woody parts of the diftance, and the grandeur of each part, are in the higheft ftile of pidiurefque beauty. This grand view is difplayed to mod advan- tage from the front of the houfe : but it is feen alfo very advantageoufly through other openings among the trees of the fore-ground. As you leave the village of Brokenhurfl, the woods receive you in a noble riling vifta, in which form the road is cut through the foreft. This vifta is exceedingly grand. A ijoindlng road through a wood, has undoubtedly more beauty than a '■cifia; and in a fmaller fcene we always wifh to find it; and even reprobate the vifta, wherever it occurs. But through a vaft foreft the vifta is in better tafte ; tho I do not in the leaft apprehend we are under obligations, on this fcore, to the furveyor of the high- ways. He took the diredt road ; which happened, on this occafion, to be the line of beauty. On other occafions, under the fame principle, he has miffed it : but here it fuits the greatnefs of the fcene; and ihews the depth of the foreft, and the vaftnefs ( 65 ) vaftnefs of the woods, to more advantage. Regular forms are certainly unpidlnrefque ; but from their limpHcity, they arc often allied to greatnefs. So eflential is fimplicity to greatnefs, that we often fee inftances, in which the ilillnefs of fymmetry hath added to gran- deur, if not produced it ; while on the other hand, we as often fee a fublime effed: injured by the meretricious charms of pidlurefque forms, and arrangements. We are not however to conceive of the foreft-vifta, as we do of the tame viftas formed by the hand of art. As it is cut through a trad of woody country, there is firil, of courfe, no formality in the difpoiition of the trees. In the artificial vifta, the trees are all of one age, and planted in regular growth. The whole plan is the offspring of formality; and the more formal it is, the nearer it ap- proaches that idea of perfeclion, at which it aims. But in the foreft-vifta the trees are cafually large, or fmall j growing in clumps, or /landing fingle; crouding upon the fore- ground, or receding from it; as the v/ild hand of nature hath fcattered them. And it is curious to fee with what richnefs of inven- tion, if I may fo fpeak, nature mixes, and VOL. II. F intermixes ( 66 ) intermixes her trees ; and fliapes them into fuch a wonderful variety of groups, and beautiful forms. Art may adm.ire, and at- tempt to plant, and form combinations, and clumps like hers : but whoever examines the wild combinations of a forcfl (which is a delightful ftudy to a pidlurefque eye) and compares them with the attempts of art, has little tafte, if he do not acknowledge with aflonhhment, the fuperiority of nature's work- manfhip. The artificial vifta again is rarely compofed of more than one fpecies. It is the fir, the lime, or the elm. But in the foreft-vifta you have not only difi^erent kinds of trees in- termixed; but bufhes alfo, and underwood, and wild plants of all kinds, which are continually producing new varieties in every part. Open groves too make another variety in the forell- vifta. In the woods between Bro- kenhurft, and Lyndhurft, an open grove is continued on the right, with little interrup- tion, between the feventh and eighth flones. The woods on the left are chiefly clofe. Befides, thcfe grand viftas are not only varied with fuch fmaller openings, and recefles, as ( 6? ) as ire formed by the irregular growth of trees ; they are broken alfo by lawns, and trad:s of padarage, which often fhoot athwart thein. One of this kind, and a very beautiful one, occurs at the fixth ftone, and another, tho of inferior fize and beauty, at the feventh. Added to this intermixture of lawn and wood, the rifing and falling of the ground in various parts of this vifta produce another fpecies of variety. The elevation is no where coniiderable ; but it is fufficient to occalion breaks in the convergency of the great per- fpedtive lines. It creates alfo new beauties in the fcenery ; particularly in fome parts on the left, where you look down from the road, among trees retiring, and linking from the eye, till the flems of the moll diflant are loft in the deep ihadows of the defcending receffes. All thefe circumftances, tho the lail is more general, give the forejl-vijla a very different air from the artificial o?ie, diver- fifying the parts, of which it is compofed, fo much, that the eye is never fatigued with furveying them ; while the ivhole together prefents one vaft, fubhme objed:. Li^ce a grand gallery of exquifite pidures, it fills the eye with all it's greatnefs ; while the objeds, F 2 on ( 68 ) on each fide, continually changing, afford at every fliep a new entertainment. A late traveller through Ruffia does not fee theie beauties in a foreft-vifta. " The country, fays he, through which we pafTed, was ill-calculated to alleviate our fufferings by transferrin q: our attervtion from ourfelves to the cbjcdls around us. The road ran, as flrait as an arrovv', through a perpetual foreft. Through the dreary extent of a hundred and ten miles, the gloomy uniformity was only broken by a few folitary villages*'." No doubt the continuation of a hundred and ten miles in any one mode of fceiiery may be rather fatiguing : but I Ihould have thought, that few m^odes of fcenery were better calculated to transfer the attention from a difagreeable fubjedl. I know not indeed what the nature of a vifla through a Ruffian foreft may be : but if it partake of the circumflances that I have juft been defcribing, in this viila through New-forell:, it muft confift of varieties, which could not eafily be exhaufled. • I beg the reader's pardon for not quoting my author. I certainly met with the pafTage ; but not noting the reference at the time ; and not opening my MS. for fometime afterwards, it has now efcaped me. The ( h ) The account I have here given of the forefl- viftals the fober refult of frequent examination. A tranfcript of the firft feelings would have been rhapfody ; which no defcription (hould indulge. The defcriber imagines that his own feelings of a natural fcene can be conveyed by warm expreilions. Whereas nothing but the Jce.ne itfelf can convey his feelings. Loofe ideas (not truth, but verilimilitude) is all that verbal defcription pretends to convey -, and this is not to be done by high colouring ; but to be aimed at by plain, appropriate, intelli- gible terms. I iLould add, before I leave this pleafing vifta, that to fee it in perfedion, a ftrong fun-fliine is neceilary. Even a meridian fun, which has a better effed: on the woods of the foreft, than on any other fpecies of landfcape*, is not perhaps too llrong for fuch a fcene as this. It will rarely happen, but that one fide, or the other of the vifta will be in fhadow; and this circumftance alone will produce contrads, which will be highly agreeable. 1 may add alfo, that this vifla • See V. i. page 242. F 3 appears ( 7° ) appears to much greater advantage, as we rife through it to Lyndhurfl, than as we defcend to Brokcnhuril:. As we paffed this vifta, we faw, in many parts through the trees, on the left, the pales of New-park, juft removed from the road. This park, which is the only one in the whole diflridl of New-foreft, is about four miles in circumference. It was firft ufcd to fecure flray cattle forfeited to the lord-warden : but in the year 1670, it was ftrongly fenced by Charles II. for the reception of a particular breed of red-deer, which he procured from France*. It is now converted into a farm ; having been granted in the laft reign to the duke of Bedford, for the term pf thirty years. In all the grand fcenery of the foreft, which we have juil examined, we fee little appearance The expence of this work ftands thus in the treafury-books. Fencing New-park and Holm coppice £-^^° Winter provifion for red-deer ■ ' ■ 50 Pens to feed them — — —— 20 Paddocks to catch diem, and turn them out 20 £.igo of ( 71 ) of fine timber. Mofl: of the beft trees have been felled. The landfcape however is not much injured. On a fore-ground indeed, when we have a fingle tree, we wifli it to be of the nobleft kind ; and it mufl be confefled that in our pafiage through this vifta, which in every part as we . pafs along becomes a fore-ground, there is a great de- ficiency of noble trees. Many of the oaks are fcathed, and ragged ; and tho in com- pofition trees of this kind have frequently their efFed* ; yet in a rich foreft-fcene, if they prefent themfelves too often, offend. For all the other purpofes of fcenery, in- ferior trees, if they be full grown, anfwer tolerably well ^ and when intermixed with ilunted trees, and brufh-wood, as they are in all the wild parts of the foreft, they are more beautiful, than if the v/hole fcene was compofed of trees of the ftatelieft order. Interftices are better filled ; and a more wii- form whole is produced. Confidered in this light a foreft is a picfture of the world. We find trees of all ages, kinds, and degrees • See V. I. page 8. F 4 ^thc ( 72 ) —the old, and the young — the rich, and the poor — the ftately, and the deprefled — the healthy, and the infirm. The order of nature is thus preferved in the world j and the beauty of nature is thus preferved in the foreft. A gentleman once confultcd his friend, who pretended to a degree of tafte, about the propriety of cutting down fome trees, which fhaded a winding avenue to his back- front, where his offices were placed. His friend advifed him by all means to leave them untouched. They are beautiful, faid he, in themfelves; and, you fee, they fkreen that part of your houfe, which you would wifli to have ikreened. The gentleman feemed convinced, and the next time he met his friend, I have taken your advice, faid he, and have left the trees flanding. And fo indeed he had; but all the ftunted wood, and under-growth, which he considered as offcnfive rubbiih, he had rooted up; over- looking their ufe in compofition. The con- fequence was, he laid all the offenfive part of his houfe open ; let in the light, and intirely deftroyed the fcene. In ( 73 ) In the firft book I mentioned the diiFerent efFeds of foil, and climate on trees*. In New-foreft thefe obfervations are well illuf- trated. T^e oaks there feem to have a cha- radler peciiHar to themfelves. They are the moft pi6turefque trees of the kind, we meet with. hey leidom fife into lofty ftcms, as oaks ufually do in richer foils : but their branches, which are more adapted to what the fhip- builders call k?iees and elbows-^, are commonly twiPied into the moil pid:urefque foruiS. In general I believe, the poorer the foil, the more piclarefque the tree — that is, it forms a more beautiful ramification. Befides, the New-foreft oak is not fo much loaded v.ith foliage, as the trees of richer foils. An over-loaded foliage deilroys all form. On the other hand, when the leaf is too thinly fcattered, the tree looks blighted, fhrivcUed, and meagre. The point of pic- turcfque perfection is when the tree has foliage enough to form a mafs ; and yet not fo See V. i. page 25. -J- See ibid, much ( 74 ) much as to hide the branches. One of the great ornaments of a tree, is it's ramification, which ought to appear, here and there, un- der the foliage, even when it is in full leaf. It is the want of this fpecies of ramifi- cation, which gives a heavinefs to the beech*. The great avenue from Brokenhurfl leads through the fpace of five or fix miles. After we have mounted the fummit of the hill, the clofe views in the defcent on the other fide, are very beautiful, confifling of little woody recefi"es, open groves, or open glades, varied as they were before, in ^ different forms. As we approach Lyndhurfl, we pafs Foxlees on the left. The fituation here is juft the reverfe of Mr. Morant's. The one fiands high, and commands the foreft at a diftance; the other, in a bottom, is furrounded by • Sec V. I, page 44, it. ( 75 ) ,it. Both modes offituatlon have their beauty; but an extenfive foreft-view before the houfe, with a few noble trees on the fore-ground, is not only, at all times, a better pidure; but it is alfo more agreeably varied by the occafional incidents of light and weather, of which the other is not capable. In a part of the fkreen, which divides thefe grounds fL'om the road, we have an opportunity of remarking the difagreeable effed: of trees planted alternately. The eye is dilgufted with looking firft on a fir, fecondly on an elm ; thirdly on a fir ; fourthly on an elm again, and fo on. And yet this tire- fome monotony, under the name of variety, is one of the commoneft modes of planting. In planting, we fhould certainly endeavour at leaft to plant like nature, which gives us the heft criterion of beauty. This aiter- nacy is a dired, and ftudied oppofition to all her pleafmg forms of compofition. It not only fhews the hand of art; but of the moft taftlefs art. How much more beautiful would fuch a fkreen appear, made up of different kinds of trees in maffes of each ; or in an indifcriminate mixture of all together ? The ( 76 ) The town of Lyndhurfl makes a pidurefque appearance, as we approach it; but inftead of entering it, we left it on the right ; and turned abruptly into the road to Minfted. The ground here is much varied. It is hilly, broken, and wooded in clumps ; with cot- tages here and there, interfperfed. Nothing in the paftoral ftile can be more pidlurefque. We have alfo extenfive views throuo:h the woods; particularly a grand retrofpe(5t towards Southampton. But as we approach Minfled, the woods fail : all becomes cul- tivation ; and the idea of a forefl is in a great degree lofl. Soon after we enter the weflern road to Ringwood, over a fpacious heath. At the eighty-fecond flone, about a quarter of a mile down the hill on the right from the road, we are fliewn the fcene of the celebrated event of Rufus's death. When I mentioned the iree-^, on which the arro\f Tyrrel glanced, I offered fome reafons for See V. i. psge i6i. fuppofing ( 17 ) fuppoling it might be admitted, as evidence in identifying the place. The fcene alfb in fome degree bears the fame teftimony. For hiflory informs us, the diverlion of the day was now over, the fun v^as declining, and William, difmounting his horfe, was enjoying a moment's refl after the fatigue of the chace*, when a ^^xg darted fuddenly acrofs the heath. The king turning towards it, and lifting his hand to flcreen his eyes from the fun-f*, at that moment received the arrow. The fcene is a fweet fequefcred bottom, open to the weft, v/here the corner of a heath finks gently into it; but flieltered on the eaft by a beechen grove, and on every other fide by clumps of trees, forming an irregular fkreen around it 5 among which are feveral winding avenues of greenfward. It is tl.e very place, where a perfon heated with toil, might be allured to flop for a moment's repofe. But the chief circumftance of evidence is, that as the place is open only to the wed:, where the heath • See William of Malmfb. and Kenry of Huntingdon. f See an account, which Rapin gives in a note from Sir John Haywood. was ( 78 ) was never probably covered with wood, the king could there only have been incommoded by an evening-fun. Having taken a view of this fcene, which in itfelf, unconnecfled with the hiftory it records, is a plealing one, we afcended again into the great road, and purfued the heath, over which it led. It is a wild expanfe, unadorned with wood ; but bounded on every fide, by very extenfive diftances. In front you difcover the high grounds of the ifle of Purbeck. On the left, you have a large range over the ifle of VVigiit. In the retro- fped: you over-look the bay, and town of Southampton ; and on the right is fpread before you a vafl flretch of diftant country, bounded by the hills of Vviltfhire, and Dor- fetfhire. This laft is the only part of thcfe diftances, which hath any pidurefque value. About the eighty-fixth ftone, the parts of it are befl difpofed j but it is the richefl about the eighty- ninth, where it is feen over a woody bottom, which makes a middle ground. In ( 79 ) In this part of the forefl: the paling of one of the new inclofures to fecure timber, which ran a confiderable way in a ftrait h'ne, deformed our views. Sometimes indeed the pahng of parks, and forefts is piilurefque, where it runs winding round a hill, and appears again perhaps in fome oppofite diredion ', but in general, it is an unpleafing objedt; and what in adorned fcenery we fhould wi(h to hide. Indeed all divilions of property are great nuifances to the pid:urefque eye, which loves to range at large ; and it adds peculiar beauty to the foreft, that in general the grand lines of nature, and various fwelling of the ground, are unbroken by thefe intrufions, and have their full play, and undulation. In remote diftances, hedge-rows, pales, and other objeds, offen- Hve on the fpot, become one rich blended furface. — And yet, even on the fpot, winding lanes, with full-grown hedges on each lide, arc often beautiful. It is clipping y and makings as they phrafe it, which ruin the picflurefque idea. Utility is always counterad:ing beauty. No ( So ) No fooner is the hedge in perfcLlion, than it is deflroyed*. The approach to Ringwood, as we leave the wild heath, which gave occafion to this digreflion, is woody and pleafant. Ring- wood was formerly the boundary of the forefl in this part i and in times of ilill more remote antiquity, was a place of great note. I know not whether in Saxon times, it did not claim the honours of regal refidence. At prefent it is a cheerful village, feated in a flat country, on the banks of the Avon, which fpreads, near the town, into a large piece of water, full of little iflands, and frequented by fwans. • If the reader vvi(h to know an ancient mode of making hedges, he will find it, as fellows, in the fifth book of Q^ Gurtius. " Raving planted twigs very clofe in the fituation they wiftied, they bent their bra.iches, as they made fhoots, and inftrted thtir extremities into the earth. Here they took root; and from thefe roots fliot into new branches. Thefe again were bent into ti.o tarth, and lo on, till a fence was obtained of the ci'^enfions wanted."— —I have fcen this mode, 1 believe, praftifed in feme parts of England, Somewhere ( 8i ) Somewhere near this part of the river the duke of Monmouth is fald to have been taken, on the eighth of July 1685, after his defeat at Sedgmore, near Bridgwater. Thus far he had travelled in diiguife, and generally by night j feeding on pulfe, and green corn, which he found growing in the fields. But I think the account more probable, that he was taken near Woodlands in Dorfetfhire*. It was thought however, that he intended to have fecured himfelf in the woods of New-fore/l, with which he was well acquainted from having frequently hunted in them. I have heard a tradition, that his body after his execution, was fent down into the foreft, and buried privately in Boldre-church-yard -, but I cannot find any ground for the furmife. The regifter of the year is )et extant, in which no notice is taken of any fuch burial ; unlefs he were buried, as might pofiibly have been the cafe, under a fiditious name. • See Hutching's hift. of Dorfet, p. 60 and 499. VOL. II. G From ' ( 82 ) From Ringwood to Chrift-church the country is flat, and the lanes clofe, and woody. Scarce any dillant view is admitted, except here and there, among the meadows on the right. On the left, Mr. Compton's park at Biftern affords Ibme variety, running a con- fiderable way along the road, and grazed with herds of large fpeckled cattle, without horns. As we leave the village of Sopley, the meadows on the right, form a better landfcape, than we had yet had. The parts are large, tho flat ; and the whole is bounded with wood ; in which the tower of Chrift-church appears as a principal object. The church, to which it belongs, was formerly monaftic. It is a grand pile, partly Saxon, and partly Gothic. Some of it's Gothic members are beautiful; particularly a fmall chapel, near the alrar, dedicated to the virgin Mary ; which for proportion and beauty of workmanfliip, is a very elegant piece of Gothic architedure. The church is now parochial. The town of Chrift-church, which takes it's name from the church, is a place of great antiquity. Here we find the ruins of a caftle, which ( 83 ) which was intended formerly to fecure the mouth of the Av^on. This river is joined by the Stour below the town; where uniting in a full dream, they wind together through a bleak coaft, forming it firft into large flat meadows, and then opening into a bay before they enter the fca. The view, which is not very interefting, is bounded by a ridge of high lands, called Chrift-church head, on the right; and on the left, by the weftern end of the ifle of Wight, which in this part, makes a remarkable appearance. It is feen nearly in front ; and it's broken cliffs, when the noon-tide fun in winter {hines ftrongly upon it, appear like the ends of two frac- tured walls, with a dark cavity betv/een them. From Chrifl-church to Lymington the country continues flat, cultivated, and inclofed. Scarce an objed: prefents itfelf. A little to the right of the road, you fee a large houfe built by lord Bute for the benefit of the fea-air. It flands on a cliff diredly oppofite to Cher- burgh, from which it is about fixty miles diftant; and it overlooks the fea, jufl: in that point, where Chrifl-church head, and the G 2 weftern ( 84 ) weflern promontary of the ifle of Wight, form an immenfe colonade before it. The road to the houfe runs directly to the front, narrow, and contradled at the entrance, but opening by degrees. The houfe firfl appears j then the extent of the lawn ; which is ample, with a pavilion at each extremity. Thefe from the fea appear to conned: it with the houfe j and give.it confequence. Beyond the lawn, the grand colonade juft mentioned, extends 5 and beyond all, the expanfe of the ocean. There is fomething very amuling in thus contemplating an idea, which is conti- nually dilating, and opening itfelf from a narrow tunnel into infinite fpace. If it were the effed: of chance, or neceffity, we have only, to admire the happinefs of it. The cliff, on which the houfe flands, is about fifty, or fixty yards high. It is not perpendiculiar, but the ground being of a fpongy, foundering nature, is continually falling in huge mafies ; and affords an eafy foundation for winding ftairs among the heaps of ruin, which occupy the fiope. At the bottom you are received by a clean, fandy beach, where, at the ebb of the tide, you may continue your walk many miles. The ( S5 ) The houfe Is a fumptuous pile -, and contains much curiofity : but as I am in quefl only of fcenery, my fubjed: forbids me to enter houfcs. Lord Bute has made an attempt to adorn the cliff around him with a plantation. But if it fhould not thrive, I think the lofs not great. Trees, in fo expofed a fituation, may perhaps juil get hold of the ground : but I Hiould think it impoffible for them to produce either fhelter, or ornament. Indeed in views of this kind, I have my doubts, whether the rural idea fhould not pu?'pofely be excluded, as inter- fering with the native grandeur of the fcene. Flowers, and flowering flirubs at leafl: feem to be alien beauties. As we leave lord Bute's, the country flill continues flat, cultivated, and inclofed. Scarce a Angle opening prefents itfelf. We obferved however one fpecies of landfcape, v/hich in i^o flat a furface, is lingular — thofe hollows, or dells mentioned in the general view of the foreft*, running aero fs it to the fea. They have not indeed the confequence of mountain-dells -, yet fome of them afford pleafmg fcenery. The • See page 52. G 3 moft ( S6 ) moft remarable are thofe of Chuton, Afhley, and Elfcrt. In each of thefe there is a little rivulet, which the traveller, ignorant of the country, u'ill fometimes be furprized to fee fwoln to an extraordi^nary fize, without any ap- parent caufe. The cafe is, they communicate with the fea, at a very little diftance ; but being totally fcreened from it, and fheltered by wood on every fide, they have the appear- ance of inland brooks, tho in fa6t they are under the influence of a tide. The cliff, on which lord Bute's houfe ilands, runs two, or three miles along the coaft towards Lymington ; and is known by the name of Hordwell cliff. The fummit of it is a fine carpet down, and is much fre- quented in the fummer-feafon, by company from Lymington, for the fake of fea-air, and fea- views. The fides of this cliff, as was obferved, frequently fall in, and after one of thefe jfoimders, as they are called, the mafles of ruin form a bold, rough bank, againft the fea, which fecures the coaft from another founder, till that body of earth is waflied away, &nd the land-fprings have loofened the earth above, when the cliff" again falls in. Within thefe laff ( 87 ) laft twenty years the fea has gained near a quarter of a mile, in fomc places on this coaft, and the calculators of the country fay, that lord Bute's houfe cannot poflibly fland above thirty years. He has taken however great pains to fecure it, by diverting, at a great expence, the land-fprings : fo that he has little to fear but the adion of the fea, which, tho a rough enemy, is a much lefs dangerous one j and againft this he has endeavoured to guard by facing the precipice in different parts with flone. In this cliff between Chrifl-church and Lymington, is found a great variety of foffil fliells. About a hundred and twenty different forts were collected by Mr. Guftavus Brander, of Chrifl-church, and prefented to the Britifli mufeum. Mr. Brander publiilied alfo in 1766, defcriptions, and very neat engravings of them, under the title of Fojjtlia Hanto- nienfia. Thefe fhells are found about fourteen or fifteen feet below the furface. The flratum above them is fand and gravel. The foil, in which they are found, is a bluifli clay; and runs down from the gravelly flratum, to a level with the fea; and probably much deeper. In every part of this cliff thefe G 4 fhells ( 88 ) fliells are found ; but chiefly about the vil- lage of Hordvvell. It is difficult to get them : the coUedor muft clamber up the fides of the precipice; and then extricate them from the clay, which is very iliff, by a tool. Their texture too is fo brittle, that in cleanfing them he runs a great rifque of breaking them. What is remarkable, few of thefe ihells belong to this coalt, or indeed to any European coaft ; and many of them as far as is known, are found no where elfe. It is remarkable alfo, that this ftratum of fhells runs in a northerly diredion quite through New-foreft. Wherever the earth is opened to any depth, in digging marie, or on other occafions, fliells are found ; tho I never faw them of any fize j except upon the coaft. A little below Hordwell, the cliff ftuls, and the coaft becoming flat between this place and Lymington, is commodioufly formed into falterns; where great quantities of ex- cellent fait have been made; tho the trade has of late fldlen off. The fquare, bounded receptacles to receive the brine, are a glaring injury to the beauty of the fliore. About ( 89 ) About two or three miles farther along the coaft, (lands Hurft-caftle, built at the point of an extraordinary natural caufeway, which runs two miles into the fea ; forming a narrow channel, between the caflle, and the ifle of Wight. The caufeway itfelf alfo is fo narrow, that it fcarce, at high water, exceeds two hundred yards in breadth. In high tides it is much narrower. The whole is covered with loofe pebbles. The fide towards the ifland is a bold fliore; beaten into ledges, or terraces of pebbles, by the violence of the waves. The other lide, which is fheltered, is undulating, m.ariny, and un- determined ; forming the water, when the tide flows, into a fmooth land-locked bay. From this little peninfula you are enter- tained with views on each hand. The ifland, and the Needle-rocks are objects, dreary, vafl:, and grand; and not wholly unpidiurefque. But to make them objeds of the pencil, they mufl: be well inlightened, and the fore- ground adorned with a little naval furniture —an anchor, a net hanging to dry, a drifted boat. ( 90 ) boat, or fome other object, with which fea- coafts abound. When I firil faw this fcene, it was in a fuhry fammer-noon, and all the cliffs were overfpread with that dingy in- diftindl hue, which fometimes accompanies a hot meridian fun. The fca, which was calm, was lighter than the land, tho darker than the fky. But in the evening, the white cliff at the end of the ifland, together with the Needles, were tinged with the fet- ting fun, and became very fplendid 3 and the fea glowing with equal radiance, the whole view, and every part of it, was rich and harmionious. On the other lide of the peninfula, the Hampfhire coafl, extending far and wide, forms an immenfe bay, which appears flat, woody, and interfperfed with a variety of diflant obje(5ls. The parts are here, and there, pidurefque ; but the whole, tho amuling, is too vaft for the pencil. Hurfl-caftle lying level with the beech, fully commands the channel, which feparates the coafl of Kampfhire from the ille of Wight. It confifts of a round tower forti- fied by femi-circular baflions ; and was among the flrongeft of thofe caftles, which were built ( 91 ) built by Henry VIII. But fince Portf- mouth hath been a place of confequence, and always guarded by a fleet, this caftle, as well as others of the fame intention, are now neglected. In this caftle the apart- ments are ftill fhewn, where Charles I was confined, when he was carried from the ifle of Wight ; and very miferable they are. On the batteries we faw an inftance of Hogarth's humour, when he was painter to the ordinance. The carriages have all crowns painted on them, with the king's initials. Below one of them, painted exactly in the vulgar ftile of the reft, Hogarth has formally put the initials of his name. The form of this caftle at a little diftance, fet off by the rocks of the ifland as a back ground, is unpidurefque. The Needles, which are of the fame tex- ture of rock with the neighbouring cliffs of the ifland, feem to have been waflied from them by the fea. A gradual change has been obferved, even in the memory of man. We may eafily imagine with what violence a ftorm at fea pours in among theie piles of formidable rocks, when the fudion and eddies ( 92 ) eddies of tides and currents make them dan- gerous almoft in the ferenefl weather. Befides the curious fituation of Hurfl- caftle, there is another pecuHarity on this coafl, which deferves notice. It is an ifland called the Shingles, which fometirnes rifes fifteen or twenty feet above the water j and at other times totally difappears. It fhifts it's fituation alfo, rearing itfelf, at one time, nearer the ifle of Wight, and at another, nearer the coaft of Hampfliire. The myftery of it is this. In that part of the channel lies a vaft bank of pebbles, fo near the furface, that it is beaten up into an ifland, by the raging of the fea, fometimes on one fide, and fometimes on the other, as the tides and currents drive. From the fame caufes too, all the prominent parts of it are as eafily difperfed, and the ifland vanifhes. When we faw it, it confifl:ed of feveral acres : but it was then larger, than had been remem- bered for many years. The fea however had found a pafTage through the middle of it -, and it was leiTening daily. But ( 93 ) But as the country from Chrift-church Is flat, and the fea generally excluded from the fight, all thefe views of the ifle of Wight, the Needles, and Hurfl-caftle muft be ob- tained by leaving the road, and getting a little nearer the coafl. Other interefting views may be fought in the fame way, both on the right, and left of the road. At Milford, and in the neighbourhood of it, are feveral good views of thefe great objeds. At Rook- cliff, a little nearer the fea, the views are again varied; the illand, and coafl: forming the appearance of an ample bay. On the other fide of the road, about Pennington- common, from Mr. Dixon's, and other places, the diftant vievv^s make a new ap- pearance, jufl ikirting the horizon, over a flat country, with a long fweep of the ifland, and intervening channel. But the moft beau- tiful view, on this fide, is from Mr. Etty's drawing-room at Prieftlands. The near grounds fink in the middle into a fort of wide valley, which is occupied in the diftance by the ifland, and the channel : and as they retire from the eye on the left, and v^^ind rather towards it on the right, the whole has the appearance of a grand lake; bounded at { 94 ) at this end, but running far into diftancc at the other. As the houfe ftands in the centre of this view, it appears as if the houfe, and view had been adapted to each other; which is one of the happieil circum- ftances, that can attend a fituation. A fine view is pleafing ; but a fine view adapted to the fituation of a houfe, is more fo. They who are unacquainted with the country, fliould be apprized, that in all thefe views, and wherever the illand is feen from the Hamp- fhire coaft, it's infularity is no where dif- coverable. An extenfive curtain of it only appears. A little farther to the eafl flands Lyming- ton, juft at the point, where the flat country we had been travelling from Chrift-church, defcends to the river, which takes it's name from the town. The brow, and gentle defcent of this falling ground the town oc- cupies ; forming one handfome ftreet, which overlooks the high grounds on the oppofite fide of the river. It is a neat, well-feuilt town, and pleafantly feated. The houfes, efpecially on the fide of the flreet next the coaft. ( 95 ) coaft, have views from the windows, and gardens, of the ille of Wight, and the fea. Acrofs the eftuary, formed at the mouth of Lymington-river, a dam with flood-gates is thrown. The intention was, to exckide the falt-water from the meadows above ; which, it was hoped, might have become good paflurage : but the purpofe is not anfwered. A great beauty however arifes from the influx of the tide, which forms a handfome piece of water above the dam, with many reaches, and winding fliores. We have already ob- ferved the beauty of this eftuary ; when {een from the higher grounds, as it enters the fea*. The fcenes are equally interefting, which it aflx)rds, when the eye purfues it up the flream, into it's recefljbs in the forefl. One of the beft of them opens from the ftable- yard of the angel-inn in Lymington, and the parts adjacent. The channel between the ifle of Wight, and the fhores of Hampfliire, is fufliciently deep, at all times, for fhips of force, and burden, which • See page 6i. often ( 96 ) often pafs through the Needles, as it is phrafed : but if the weather be at all rough, it is thought an unfafe palTage; and in general thefe narrow feas are frequented by fmaller veflels. The port of Lymington particularly, which is entered by a long, narrow, (hallow river, is chiefly frequented by light ilciffs, rigged in the cutter-form, with a jib and boom. Thefe are, of all others, the moft beautiful vefTels, which frequent a coaft. To make a large iliip a beautiful obje that the perfons, to whofe mem.ory they were conftrudted, had been nearly conne6led. On pacing the cir- cumference of each, we find they have be- longed to perfons of unequal dignity, in the proportion of a hundred and eight, to eighty three. But a little to the eaft of Shirly-holm's, near Peatmer-pond, arifes a larger tumulus than either of thefe, called Shirley-barrow. It's circumference is one hundred and forty paces. There are many other tumuli, on the great heaths of the foreft j which I mention here, as I fliall take no farther notice of them. As we defcended the gentle heights, on" which we were nov/ raifed, a beautiful valley, H 4 about ( 104 ) about a quarter of a mile in breadth, opened before us, arrayed in vivid green, and winding two or three miles round a wood. On the other fide the grounds, wild, and unadorned, fall with an eafy fweep into it. Beyond thefe a grand woody fcene fpreads, far, and wide, into diftance -, and as it approaches the eye, unites gently with the other parts of the landfcape. The valley was no other than that vaft bog, already mentioned, known by the name of Longjlade -bottom'^ , It's de- ceitful furface however does no injury to it's pi6turefque form : only indeed it deprives it of the appendages of grazing cattle. The nimble deer trip over it in fummer without inconvenience ; but no animals of heavier bulk dare truft themfelves upon it. The name of the wood beyond this verdant valley, is Hinchelfea^ As we leave Longflade- bottom on the right, the grounds, which rife on the left, are occupied by Sethorn-wood, a fcene of con- fiderable extent. Sethorn-wood was once the • See an account of it, page 56. nobleil: ( lOJ ) nobleft of all foreft-fcenes. The ground It flood on is beautifully varied; and the gran- deur, and number of it's oaks were the admiration of all, who faw them. But it's glories are now over. During the unremitted courfe of thirty years it continued to add ftrength to the fleets of Britain ; itfelf fuf- ficient to raife a navy. In this arduous fervice, it's vigour was at length exhauftedj and it contains little more, at prefent, than fhrubs, and underwood, and blafted trees. In the midfl: of this wood rifes a hill called Oak-brow, from the ilately oaks, which once adorned it's fummit, and fhaggy fides. But it's honours fell a facriiice, not, like thofe of Sethorn, to it's country's good, but to the convenience of a potent neighbour. Through the influence of lord Delawar, whofe views it obflrudled, it's oaks were felled, long before any inroads had been made among the woods, which incircled them. And if the deftrudion of thefe oaks l^d been partial ; if a few, here and there, had been left as a fore-ground, the injury, on the fpot at leafl, might the lefs be re- gretted. For the views which are thus opened from it's. brow, make great amends for the lofs of ( io6 ) df it's woods. They confifl: chiefly of two or three beautiful lawns, fkreened with foreft- fcenery. Tew-tree-bottojn denotes one of thefe fcenes ; and Even-ivater-bottom , another. The former receives it's name from the fpecies of trees, which decorate it ; the latter, from a pool, which occupies it's middle area. In foreft language, valhes in general are; called bottoms; tho in fa6t, they are wide extended fcenes. Moft of them have their little rivulets running through them. But thefe foreft-ilreams are very unlike the ftreams of a mountainous country ; pouring among rocks, and fretting among pebbles. Theirs is a tamer nature. They are feldom more than little ouzing rills, which drain the fpringy fides of riling grounds ^ and wander llowly, unobferved, and unobftruded, through the vallies of the foreft. The landfcape however, feldom wants their paltry afiif- tance. The only way, in which thefe rivulets are of any ufe in a foreft-fcene, is, when they fpread themfelves into little pools, in fome part of the valley, as they do here, in Even-water-bottom, and as they frequently do in other fcenes j and the merit of thefe little ( 1^7 ) little pieces of water chiefly con (ids In draw- ing all the cattle of the neighbourhood around their banks, which greatly animate, and in- rich the view. In this part of the foreft ftands Wilverly- lodge commanding beautiful views of thefe fvveet wooded lawns, and vallies ; which, from the high fituation of the lodge, are fet oft with the ifle of Wight, as a back-ground. From Wilverly, we traverfed the pales of a new timber inclofure, v^hich is not lefs than four miles in circumference. If the wood, which it is meant to defend, fliould ever flourifh, it would foon create a fcene. But at prefent this part of the foreft is barren of beauty, and there is fo very little appear- ance of the growth of timber, that people are apt to fuppofe, it has been ignorantly planted ; or negligently attended. One rea- fon indeed affigned for the ruin of the young wood, is the quantity of rabbits, which breed in the dry, fandy hills of thefe parts ; and which it is ditiicult, amidft fuch flielter, to extirpate. A young oak, juft vegetating from the acorn, is elleemed, by thefe pernicious inmates, the moft delicious food. Thus it may ( loS ) may be faid, the glory of England may be nipped in the bud by a paltry rabbit. After we leave thcfe dreary pales, the country, here and there, breaks out towards Holmfiey-lodge; but nothing is very intereft- ing till we arrive at the brow of Eurley-hill. Here the eye is greatly regaled. From this height it furvcys a grand fweep of different removes of woody diftance, fpreading round a femicircular plain of feveral miles in extent ; known by the nam.e of Mark-njcay-bottom, The plain itfeif confining of a well-propor- tioned intermixture of rich heath, and green pafturage, is fomething between a foreil-lawn, and a forefl-heath 3 too large for the one, and yet not large enough for the other. In two or three different parts, it is adorned with thofe attradive pools, which inrich a landfcape with the introduction of animal life. The woods, which incircle this grand favan- nah, as we furvey them from the brow of the hill, are thofe of Bury on the left : ad- joining to thefe, commence the woods of Burley; and ftill more to the right, thofe of Rhinfield. All this rich "Scenery is in one continued, tho varied and broken, fweep; and ranges at different diflances from one mile { 109 ) mile to ten. The woods of Bury on the left, being he neareft, and moft elevated, iptirely fill that part of the horizon, under which they fpread : but beyond thofe of Burley rife, in fainter colouring, the two woody- bofomed hills of Lyndhurft; and beyond. the woods of Rhin field, a very remote forefl- view ftretches into all the obfcu ri ty of diftance. Every fpecies of country, cultivated, as well as uncultivated, when melted down into dif- tance, has a fine effed:; as we have often obferved ; but the foreft-diflance, is among the richeft. Such is the grand view, from Burley- hill; continually varying it's appearance., a^ we defcend. Our road led us oyer Mark-way-bottom, to the duke of Bolton's at Burley; which is an excellent foreft-lodge, tho an ordinary ducal-feat. The late duke having obtained a grant of it for thirty years, was at fome ex- pence in adorning it. He built handfome flables ; fitted up the houfe, and laid out a lawn before it, which is bounded by a piece pf embanked water. There is but little tafle however fhewn in. the improvements ; nor. indeed ( no ) indeed does the fituation deferve much at- tention. It is low ; and except that it ftands in the midft of a beautiful foreft, it is on the whole, ill-chofen. The lawn of this lodge is adorned with fome very grand oaks, which from the dignity of their form, and venerable appearance ; as well as the number of the moft refpectable of them, have obtained the name of the twelve apcjiles. In the woods around this lodge, we faw a breed of fmall cattle, which the late duke of Bolton procured from Scotland. While this herd was increafing, they were fuffered to run wild in the foreftj but in a courfe of years, when he wifhed to reclaim a few of them, their habits were become fo obftinate, and their nature fo ferocious, that it was attempted without fuccefs ; and they are now among the ferce natiird of the foreft. They are mifchie- vous however only when attacked. We rode, and walked among them without any molef- tation. From Burley-lodge it is little more than two miles to Boldre-wood lodge, the feat of lord ( III ) lord Delawar. This houfe enjoys one of the fineft Tituations of the forefl. It ftands high, with an extenfive lawn before it, from which it commands a vaft extent of foreft-fcenery, fpread around in great variety of diftance; particularly towards Burley-lodge, where the woods flretch far and wide, beyond a length- ened favannah, which fets them oiF to great advantage*. On the other fide of the lawn, the diftances are woody ; but more broken, and not fo remote. Nor are the home-views around this beautiful fpot, lefs pleafing, than thofe at a difcance. We wound near a mile round the lodge, through a fucceflion of rich forefl- fcenery, cornpofed chiefly of beech. The trees thmefelves are among the moft beautiful of their kind, having been fecured from the ax by the protection of the houle they adorn. But ilill the beech, even in perfection, is inferior to the oak, the elm, and the afh, in moft of the charadteriilics of pidturefque beauty. It has always too much of a fpiry pointednefs in the extremities of its branches ; which gives a littlenefs to its parts. In its moft beautiful form it rarely fliakes off * The fame kind of fituation, only varied, is defcribed in page 6^. this ( 112 ) this charaderiftic imperfe6lion. If the trees' however as individuals, were lefs plealing, their combinations were highly beautiful ; and exhibited much fcenery from thofe natural openings, and glades, which are fo often found in the internal parts of forefls. All the woods not only around this lodge, but in its neighbourhood, abound in beech. The mart: of this tree is the mod fattening food for deer; and gives fuch repute to the winter-venifon of Boldre-wood walk, that a ilranger would have difficulty in getting a king's warrant for a doe executed in it*. Thefe woods alfo afford excellent feeding for hogs, which are led, in the autumn-feafon, into many parts of the foreft, but efpecially among the oaks, and beeches of Boldre-wood, to fatten on maft. It is among the rights of the foreft -borderers to feed their hogs in the foreft, during the pawnage-month, as it is called, which commences about the end of feptember, and lafts fix weeks. For this • Mr. Samber's MS. privilege ( "3 ) privilege they pay a trifling acknowledgment at the fteward's court at Lyndhurft. The word pawnage was the old term for the money thus colledied-f-. The method of treating hogs at this {^2X0x1 of migration, and of reducing a large herd of thefe unmanageable brutes to perfed obedience, and good government, is curious. The firfh ftep the fwine-herd takes, is to inveftigate fome clofe fheltered part of the foreft, where there is a conveniency of water; and plenty of oak, or beech-maft, the former of which he prefers, when he can have it in fufficient abundance J. He fixes next on fome fpreading tree, round the bole of which he wattles a flight, circular fence of the dimenfions he wants j and covering it roughly with boughs, and fods, he fills it plentifully with ftraw, or fern. Having made this preparation, he collects his colony among the farmers, with whom he commonly agrees for a fhilling a head. f See Manwood on foreft-Iaw, p, 201. X Pliny feems to be of a different opinion. " Glans fagca faem hilarem facit, carnem coquibilem, ac levem, et utilem llomacho. Tradit Nigidius fungofam carnem fieri efculo, ro- bore, fubere." Lib. xvi. 6. VOL. II. I and ( iH ) and will get together perhaps a herd of five or fix hundred hogs. Having driven them to their deftlned habitation, ke gives them a plentiful fupper of acorns, or beech-maft, which he had already provided, founding his horn, during the repaft. He then turns them into the litter, where, after a long journey, and a hearty meal, they lleep de- licioully. The next morning he lets them look a* little around then^ — fhews them the pool, or ftream, where they may occafionally drink -—leaves them to pick up the oifals of the lafl night's meal; and as evening" draws on, gives them another plentiful repafl: under the neighbouring trees, which rain acorns upon them for an hour together, at the found of his horn. He then fends them again to ileep. The following day he is perhaps at the pains of procuring them another meal, with mufic playing as ufual. He then leaves them a little more to themfelves, having an eye however on their evening-hours. But as their bellies are full, they feldom wander far from home, retiring commonly very or- derly, and early to bed. After ( "5 ) After this, he throws his fly open, and leaves them to cater for themfelves ; and from hence-forward has Httle more trouble with them, during the whole time of their mi- gration. Now and then, in calm weather, when mafi: falls Sparingly, he calls them perhaps together by the mufic of his horn to a gratuitous meal; but in general, they need little attention, returning regularly home at night, tho they often wander in the day two or three miles from their fly. There are experienced leaders in all herds, which have fpent this roving life before ; and can inflrud: their juniors in the method of it. By this management the herd is carried homei to their refpedive owners in fuch condition, that a little dry meat will foon fatten them. I would not however have it fuppoled, that all the fwinc-herds in the foreft manage their colonies with this exadnefs. Bad go- vernments, and bad governors will every where exift ; but I mention this as an example of found policy — not as a mere Platonic, or Eutopian fcheme; but fuch as hath been often realized, and hath as often been found produdive of good order, and public utility. I a The ( ii6 ) The hog is commonly fuppofed to be an obflinate, head-flrong, unmanageable brute : and he may perhaps have a degree of poli- tivenefs in his temper. In general, however if he be properly managed, he is an orderly, docile animal. The only difficulty is, to make your meanings, when they are fair, and friendly, intelligible to him. Effed this, and you niay lead him with a flraw. Nor is he without his focial feelings, when he is at liberty to indulge them. In thefe foreft-migrations, it is commonly obferved, that of whatever number the herd confifts, they generally feparate, in their daily excur- jfions, into fuch little knots, and focieties, as have formerly had habits of intimacy together ; and in thefe friendly groups they range the foreft; returning home at night, in different parties, fome earlier, and fome later, as they have been more or lefs fortunate in the purfuits of the day. It founds oddly to affirm the life of a hog to be enviable; and yet there is fomething uncommonly pleafing in the lives of thefe emigrants — fomething at lead more defirable, than is to be found in the life of a hog Epicurl de grege. They feem themfelves alfa to i ( "7 ) to enjoy their mode of life. You fee them perfeftly happy, going about at their eafe, and converfing with each other in /hort, pithy, interrupted fentences, which are no doubt, expreffive of their own enjoyments, and of their focial feehngs. Befides the hogs, thus led out in the maft-feafon to fatten, there are others, the property of foreft-keepers, which fpend the whole year in fuch focieties. After the maft-feafon is over, the indigenous foreft-hog depends chiefly for his livelihood on the roots of fern : and he would find this food very nourishing, if he could have it in abundance. But he is obliged to procure it by fo laborious an . operation, that his meals are rarely ac- companied with fatiety. He continues how- ever, by great induftry, to obtain a tolerable fubfiftence through the winter, except in frofty weather, when the ground refifts his delving fnout : then he muft perifti, if he do not in fome degree experience his mafter's care. As fpring advances frefh grafTes, and falads of different kinds, add a variety to his bill of fare ; and as fummer comes on, he finds juicy berries, and grateful feeds, on I 3 which ( ii8 ) which he lives plentifully, till autumn returns, and brings with it the extreme of abundance. Befides thefe flationary hogs, there are others in fome of the more defolate parts of ijie foreft, which are bred wild, and left to themfelves, without any fettled habitation. As they coft nothing either in food, or care, their owners are content with the pre- carious profit of fuch, as they are able to reclaim. Charles I, I have heard, was at the ex- pence of procuring the wild boar and his mate from the forefls of Germany, which once certainly inhabited the forefts of England. I have heard too that they propagated greatly in New-forefl:. Certain it is, there is found in it, at this day, a breed of hogs, commonly C2Mq6. for eft 'pigs, which are very different from the ufual Hampfhire breed ; and have about them fevcral of the chara6leriftic marks of the wild boar. The foreft-hog has broad flioulders -, a high creft j and thick, briftly mane, which he eredis on any alarm. His hinder parts are light, and thin. His ears are fhort, and eredt ; and his colour either black, or darkly brindled. He is much fiercer, than the common breed; and will turn .ii>->y. >ii; m ^ViX. :<>^ \.'i V-^-^-'^i.'<'^''> m •^> V J ./ ?<^-vf >J s^- vJ ;;.>::: ..-^ ^^-n^. -iii^/f' ^A/^ .i^ f\^V^\siJ^ h'n' ;:^-^ i^mv^ :-W^ "^ ( "9 ) turn againft an ordinary dog. All thefe are marks of the wild boar, from whom, I have little doubt, that in part he derives his pedigree, tho his blood may be contaminated with vulgar mixtures-f*. But tho he is much more pidurefque, than the common hog, he is in much lefs repute among farmers. The lightnefs of his hind quarters, and the thin- nefs of his flanks appear to great difadvantage in the ham, and the flitch. On leaving the beechen groves of Boldre- wood we were received by a large, open, fvvampy, heath, called No Ma?is walk, being under the peculiar jurifdidion of none of the keepers. The woods foon after commenced again, in which we pafTed a large foreft-vifta, cut through them, from Lyndhurft to Bur- ley-lodge; but it wanted the turnpike road which we found in the other vifla*. I could not have fuppofed how much it loft, from the want of this accompaniment. Without a road, there feemed to be no reafo?t for a f See vol. I. page 281. * See page 65. I 4 vifta. ( 120 ) vifta. In other refpecfts alfo it wanted the variety of the Lyndhuril-viila. Along the confines of thefe woods, we fkirted a forefl-lawn, called JVarwickJied ; which wheeled around us in the form of a crefcent, near two miles in circuit. It was a beautiful fcene, hung with wood on every fide. Near this place ftands Rhinfield-lodge ; the fituation of which is perhaps as pleafing, tho not fo grand, as that of Boldre-wood. It flands on a fpreading hill, incircled with groves of oak, among which indeed greater deftrudion hath been made, for the fake of the view, than feems to have been neceffary. As the ground falls on every fide from the hill, on which the houfe flands, fo on every fide, it foon begins to rife again, tho very gently, expanding by degrees into a vafl circle of foreft-fcenery of every fpecies — extenfive woods — fkirted heaths — intermixtures of wood and lawn — and all this landfcape exhibited through the various removes of diflance. When we were fated with thefe grand fcenes, we had them afterwards pre- fentcd more picfturefquely in parts, as we defcended the hill, on which the lodge flands. In ( 121 ) In this defcent we caught them every where to great advantage, through the boles, and branches of the ftately oaks, which furrounded us. As the ground, which immediately in- circled this hill at the bottom, is fwampy, and watered with rivulets, the fituation is fometimes in the winter, rather uncomfortable. When the rains are abundant, the waters ilagnate fo much around the hill, that it is almofl completely infulated. The next fcene we vlfited was a foreft- lawn of grand dimenfions. It feemed not lefs than nine or ten miles in circumference -, bounded on every fide, at leaft in appearance, with woods, fome of which were on a level with it, and others on grounds elevated above it. Among thefe latter were the woods of Brokenhurfb, adorned with the fpire of the church fhooting above them. The pecu- liarity of this lawn is, that it's vaft area is a perfed: flat — a form, which tho lefs beau- tiful than a playing furface, exceeds it in fim- plicity, and grandeur. A fmall fiat is trivial. It is a mere bowling-green. It has neither beauty in it's parts to fet it off; nor greatnefs in ( 122 ) in the whole, to make it intcreftlng. Affnall piece of ground therefore fhould always be varied. But an extcjijive jlat like this we are now examining, gives one grand, uniform idea, which fills the imagination. The grandeft idea of this kind, is that of the ocean ; the greatnefs of which confifts in it's being a continued flat. But the ocean prefents gran- deur without beauty. In a view of this kind at land, the idea of beauty 'is, more or lefs, imprelTed by the charader of the fcenery around it. I remember being exceedingly ftruck with the grandeur of an immenfe fcene of this kind, on the borders of Scotland, called Broiigh-marfi'^ , It is infinitely larger indeed than this, and is invironed, not w^ith Vi^oods, which would lofe their effedl round fo vafi: an area ; but with mountains. Rom- ney-marjlo in Kent, is a fcene alfo of the fame kind 3 but it is cut in peices> and de- formed by parallel lines, hedges, and canals. Nor arc it's boundaries good. Inftead of woods, or mountains, it is bounded by the * See obfervations on the lakes of Cumberland, &c. vol. II. page 109. fea; ( 123 ) fea; and where the fea appears In conjunc- tion with a level furface, the efFedl is bad : it joins one flat to another, and produces confuiion. The extenfive foreft-lawn, which gave oc- cafion to thefe remarks, is known by the name of Ober-green, It is chiefly pafl:urage, patched here and there with heath; and is efteemed one of the beft feeding grounds, both for deer, and cattle in the foreft. Ober-green was the lafl: of thofe beautiful lawns, with which our ride through thefe parts of the foreft was inlivened ; and I imagine few counties in England could fur- niih fo many pleafing woodland- fcenes in fo fmall a compafs. He who delights in fuch fcenery will find it in much greater perfedlion in the wildnefs of a foreft, than among the moft admired improvements of art. He will And it grander, more varied, and every where more replete with thole wild, inchanting paflages, which the hand of art cannot give. What are the lawns of Hagley*, or any other * The late Lord Lyttleton's in Worcefterfhire, now Lord Weftcote's. plac« ( 124 ) place celebrated for this fpecles of artificial landfcape, but paltry imitations of the genuine works of nature ? Hinchelfea-wood*, which we left on the right in the morning, now again Ikirted our right, as we traverfed Ober -green. Here it was as great an ornament, as it was on the other fide, at hong jlade -bottom. That vaft bog, which we had feen in the morning winding fo beautifully round Hinchelfea-wood, now prefented it's deceitful furface direftly in our way. An inexperienced traveller might have ventured to pafs it without fcruple. But our ileps were better guided. We were care- fully led through the fkirts of the wood to a place where a mole is thrown acrofs this vaft bog, with two or three wooden bridges to tranfmit the moifture. Having pafled this obftrudtion, we rofe Blackamfley-hill, from whence, as in a table of contents, we had a view of all the country, the woods, and the lawns we had paiTed, extending at leafl nine, or ten miles in length. • See page 104. From ( 125 ) From Blackamfley-hill, we came to Set- ley-wood, near which we met again the great road, we had left in the morning. But inftead of continuing in it, we crolTed it at a gate oppoiite to a gravel-pit, as we leave Brokenhurfl ; and entered a wild heath called Burnt-hill, where fome beautiful woody fcenes immediately opened. On the left along the declivities, hung inclofures of cultivated meadow-land, and likewife of rough grounds, both equally adorned with wood; and as thefe two fpecies of landfcape were here con- tiguous, and exadily limilar, excepting only the article of cultivation, they afforded a good opportunity of illuftrating the dod:rine of gradation ; one of thofe great principles in landfcape, which contributes more than any other, towards the produdion of effeSf, The force of gradation is moft (hewn in the management of light and colours : but it is fhewn alfo in the wiion of objeSls, Abrupt ncfs, it is true, and jlroiig oppofitiofis, are often great fources of pi6lurefque beauty ; when properly, and fparingly introduced. In profulion, they are affedled. But the great principle of gradation has univerfal injluence, and enters more or lefs into every compofition. The ( 126 ) The inftance we faw of it here refpe6led the union of objeBs, On examining a piece of natural groundi we fee, at a fingle glance, how gradually, and beautifully nature commonly unites one part with another — the tree with tlie n:irub — the fhrub with the brake— that again with the weed— and laftly, thefe loweft decora- tions with the level ground ; which is here, and there, flill farther foftened into them by patches of more luxuriant herbage^. But in the cultured field, however beautiful in it's kind, you fee no tranfition, no connedlion, or gradation among contiguous parts. Even if the hedges introduce no formality of lineal boundary, yet the fmooth uniform furface, whether of grafs, or of corn, joins abruptly with the wood. This in a pidurefque light is difpleafing. But you admire the artificial lawn, bounded only with wood ? You then talk of con^ trajlf rather than gradation^ as a fource of beauty ? • See vol. I. p. 219. We ( 127 ) We do : and fcenes of this kind are often beautiful. But one of their great beauties arifes ftill from gradation. When we talk of contrafit we do not mean fimple oppofition. Two contiguous ilripes of black, and white produce no effed:. Strong oppojitions we fome- times allow, but they muft only appear in tranlient touches : gradation enters into the idea even of contrajL It is true, in the arti- ficial lawn we commonly require neatnefs ; fo that the rude conneclions of Jiature are ex- cluded : but ftill a lawn, bounded with re- gular wood, gives us little pleafure* It is the planter's care to obtain what gradation he can, by bringing fome of his clumps forward, and thus conne(5ting his lawn with his woods. Yet with all his art he can never do it in fo nobly wild, and picflurefque a manner, as nature in her mofl beautiful works. The two different kinds of hanging grounds, bounded with woods, which occafioned thefe remarks, occupied our left. In front was an extended fkirting of woody fcenery, which opening itfelf more and more, as we pro- ceeded, fpread into a noble ikreen. This fcenery ( 128 ) fcenery conlifled of thole vad woods, which ftretch from Heathy-Dilton, to Boldre-church. Thefe woods hang over the moft plealing meadows about Roydon, and along all the valley to Brokenhurfl:, that ever adorned a landfcape. It is a landfcape indeed of the cultured kind, and therefore little accommo- dated to the pencil ; but of it's kind it is the moft lovely. Through this valley, con- lifting of hanging meadows, varioufly bounded, and adorned with wood, the river of Lyming- ton, while it is yet rural, and only a foreft- ftream, forms many a devious curve. But this pleafing fcenery can only be traverfed by the foot-paflenger, or the angler with his rod. Even on horfe-back you cannot pafs the many wooden bridges made of fingle planks, which are thrown athwart the feveral windings of the ftream. Leaving thefe fcenes behind us, we entered the lanes of Roydon, broad, winding, and adorned in one part with an open grove, in others, with an intermixture of beech, and oakj which ftretching acrofs, form a canopy above the head. Thefe lanes open upon a heath, called Sandy-down, which is fuppofed to enjoy the beft air in it's neighbourhoood. IIer« ( 129 ) Here the woods, which had before fkreened our front, now winding round, appear with equal magnificence on the left. The fummit is crowned with Boldre-church, which dif- covering only it's imbattled tower among the trees, takes the form of a lofty caftle. Having crolTed the river near the ruins of Hay wood- ho ufe, once a manfion of conlide- rable note, we mounted the hill to the church, from whence we had beautiful views, on the north, to the foreft, and on tlie fouth, to- wards the white cliifs of the ifle of Wight, which are fef off by intermediate woods. Indeed all the churches of the foreft are loftily feated. For when the whole country was covered with woods, and before roads were cut through them ; it was neceffary to place the church in a lofty fituation, that the in- habitants might the more eafily find their way to it, through the devious paths of the foreft. VOL. II. K SECT. ( '31 ) SECT. VII. Remarks on the middle parts of New-foieft, between the rivers of Lymington, and Beaulieu. DIRECTING our courfe i^r/l towards Beaulieu, we palled the plantations of fir Harry Burrard at Walhampton, which extend round his houfe, and are compofed chiefly of fir. His gardens command ex- tenfive views of the ille of Wight, and the intervening channel : but they are views, which may rather be called amiifmg, than piSltirefque. They are too extenfive for the ufe of the pencil. The diftant coail exhibits too long a curtain -, the hills are too fmooth ; and the water-line is too parrallel with the coaft of Hampfliire. The only way to obtain that fpecies of beauty, v^^hich we call pic^ K 2 turefque. ( 132 ) turefque, from fo lengthened a view of diilant coafl, is to break it, here and there, with plantations, fometimes immediately on the fore-ground, and fometimes in the fecond diftance. And indeed in many parts of the gardens, where fuch portions are intercepted by the woods, good pi5iures are obtained. After all however we mull allow, that nine perfons in ten would be better pleafed with thefe extended views in their prefent amufing Jiate, than if they had been more generally broken in a form to pleafe the pi Slur ef que eye. Few people can diftinguifh between the ideas of beautiful , and piSlurefque : but every eye is pleafed with an amujing view. To thefe fheltered receffes, v/hich extend even to my garden-gate, I am fo much in- debted, through the indulgence of their be- nevolent owner, for the quiet pleafures of many a ftudious hour, that I fliould gladly enter more minutely into a defcription of them ; did not my fubjedt, which holds me clofely to the wild fcenes of nature, forbid. Yet there is one fcene, which I cannot forbear mentioning : it is fo nearly allied to nature, that it is clofely allied alfo to to my fubjedl. The fcene I mean, is a fmall lake, containing about a dozen acres, which has ( 133 ) has been formed out of a fwamp. It Is wooded on both fides ; and the view of the whole together is very pleafing, when you ftand in the open part, towards Portmere- common, from whence the head, which con- fines the water, is concealed j and the woods on each fide, are united at the bottom, with thofe of the garden. The walks, on both fides, are well managed ; and contain many little pleafing recefies, and openings to the water. Sir John D'Oyly, and Mr. Robbins, whofe houfes we pafs in fuccefilon, have the fame views towards the ifle of Wight, and the channel, which are prefcnted from the gar- dens at Walhampton -, but they are {qqr under different circumfi:ances. Sir John D'Oyly 's capital view is from a circular room at the top of his houfe, which commands a very great extent both of fea, and land. On the land-fide the diverfified woods of the foreft appear flretching far and wide around his houfe, with all the inter- vening cultivation houfes cottages and farms. On the other fide, the fight extends along the channel of the ifle of Wight in both diredlions — to the weft, as far as the open fea ; and to the eaft, as far as Spithead, K 3 where ( 134 ) where every motion of the fleet, which Is ftationed there, may be obferved. His lawn has lately been new-modelled, and is now only in a flate of improvement ; fo that it's efFedl cannot yet be feen. At Pilewell Mr. Robbins's views towards the fea, are nearly the fame as thofe from D'Oyly-park ; only feen from a lower ftand. Mr. Robbins's lawn is a very extenfive one. It is flat indeed; but fo much quiet fpace forms an excellent contraft with the bufy fcehe of navigation, which is fpread beyond it. Still however thefe views are of the amufing kind. I fhould advife the piSfurefque eye therefore to feek the fcenery of the ifland, as he will find it more broken, in many parts of the walk, which circles the lawn. The belt view of the ivhole together is from the drejjifig-room windows. About a mile and a half from Baddeily we pafs the edge of a piece of frefh-water, above three miles in circumference, known by the name of Souley-pond. In an inland- country it would have been thought a con- fiderable lake: but it's clofe neighbourhood ( 135 ) to the fea diminlfhes the idea. It is not indeed fkreened by fuch noble limits, as dignify the lakes of Weilmorland and Cumberland ; rocks, mountains, and craggy promontories -, yet it is marked by an elegant irregular line; it's banks arife in gentle fwells from the water; in fome places the fkirts of Beaulieu woods run down to it's edge; and in others low points of level land Ihoot into it, which are always beautiful, efpecially when adorned with groups of figures, or of cattle. On the whole it is a pleafing fcene. It produces great plenty of fifli ; and often affords a .fummer-day's amufement to the gentlemen of the neigh- bourhood. From Souley^pond the road leads towards the banks of Beaulieu-river, which are rathet high in this part, and much wooded ; fo that of courfe the water is fkreened from' the eye. The road however is very beautiful, paflirig through woody lanes, and open groves : and the woods of Beaulieu are the more beau- tiful, as they are almoft univerfally left untouched. You fcarce fee a maimed tree among them. K 4 About { «36 ) About two miles from Souley, a ilrange ruin attrads the eye, on the left. It appears like the two ends of a barn, the roof of which has fallen in. But the curiofity of it is, it's amazing fize. From one gavel- end to the other it extends eighty-one paces. The name it is known by, is St. Leonard's; and it is commonly fuppofed to have been a barn belonging to the monks of Beaulieu, who placed here a little eflablifhment of their fra- ternity, to gather the fruits of the country in thefe parts. The veftiges of different build- ings, and the walls of a fmall chapel, ftill remain. In a pidurefque light this ruin is of no confequence. We walked round it, and tried it in every mode of perfpedive, if poffible to make a drawing from it, but the two vaft gavel-ends would enter into no kind of compofition. Large barns were the common appendages of abbeys j and the vefliges of fome of them flill remain. There is a grand building of this kind at Battle-abbey in Suffex ; tho I fliould think is is more ornamented, than was requifite for a barn. There is another very large one at Cerne in Dorfetfhire. But the nobleft edifice, I believe, in England, under the I ( 137 ) the denomination of a barn, is to be {cen at Choulfey in Berkfhire, about two miles from Wallingford. This barn is flill larger than that we are now furveying. It is fome- what above a hundred yards in length ; and eighteen yards broad. It contains four threfh- ing-floorsj and is fuppofed to have belonged to the rich abbey of Reading. Tho carrying upon it the date of 11 01, it is in good con- dition ; and flill performs the functions of a barn. Mighty caftles, and churches in three or four centuries have given way to time : but here is a barn, which has continued doing it's offices to fociety, through the fpace of feven hundred years. From the ruins of St. Leonard's, the fame woody road brought us foon to Buckler's-hard, a beautiful femi-circular valley, or rather a dip of the bank to the edge of the river, which forms before it one of it's grandeft fweeps. In this pleafing retreat the duke of Montague, predecefTor to the late duke, proprietor of all this part of the country, propofed to build a town, which was to bear his name. He was at that time proprietor alfo of the ifland of St. Lucia in the weft- Indies ; and as he enjoyed all the priv Urges on the river, of the abbey ( '38 ) abbey of Beaulieu, which were great, and would have enabled him to inveft his colony with many immunities, he expefted to derive much advantage from a fugar trade ; as fugars might thus be imported, and from the plenty of fuel, refined, at a much cheaper rate here, than they could be any where elfe. And indeed the fcheme had the approbation of many men of founder judgment, than the duke's. The limits of a town were accordingly planned — the flreets were marked out — and the building-grounds adjufted. But at the peace of 1748, St. Lucia was declared a neutral illand, by which the duke's property in it was loft ; and foon after, his only fon dying, he dropped all farther intention with regard to his new town. Buckler's-hard was however deflined to re- ceive a town, tho of a different kind. The fituatiori was commodious for (hip-building, as well as fugar-boiling ; and was taken for that purpofe, by Mr. Adams, who made large contrads with government for building fhips of war. Several very fine frigates have been built here, and fome fhips of more force*. The * The following is a lilt of the fhips of war, and their number of guns, which have been built at Buckler's-hard. The ( 139 ) The great number of workmen, whom this buiiners brought together, have given birth by degrees to a populous village. From this bufy fcene, we purfued our way to Beaulieu-abbey ; which is about two miles beyond it. The road is ftill dole, and beau- tifully wooded. Within half a mile of it you look down from the higher grounds, into the circular valley, in which the ruins of the abbey ftand. The valley itfelf is extenfive, and confifts of great variety of ground ; and the whole fcene, but efpecially the hills, which furround it, are woody. Through the middle of it runs the river, which, about two miles above Beaulieu, is a mere foreft-ftream, and has no confe- quence, but what it receives from the beautiful The Illuniiious of feventy-four guns. The Vigilant — Aga- memnon — Indefatigable — and Europe ; all of fixty-four. The Greenwich, and Hannibal of fifty. The Woolwich — Romulus —Gladiator — and Sheernefs of forty-four. The Thames — Thetis —and Heroine of thirty-two. The Coventry— Levant— Triton —Greyhound— Sibyl — and Brilliant of twenty -eight. The Sur- prife — Fowey— and Mermaid of twenty- four. The Kennington cf jvventy— and the Scorpioii iloop. fcenes, ( HO ) icenes, through which it wanders. Under the walls of the abbey it meets the tide, which immediately gives it form, and dignity. Here a bridge is thrown over it ; on each fide of which, it fpreads into a lake, when the tide flows, fhaping it's ample fweeps around rich wooded fhores. Both thefe grand bafons might eafily be kept conftantly full, if a head were conftruded, as I have heard it might be, acrofs the river, at the fecond reach below the abbey. The tide, in all probability would not obftrudl a work of this kind ; as it flows here with little force, fcarce at the rate of four miles an hour. The precindts of the abbey, which fl:ands on the eafl:ern fide of the river, are, in circum- ference, about a mile and a half. The boun- dary-wall is intire in feveral parts -, and vifible almofl: in all. The area, within the boundary, is nearly flat ; and might eafily be made a very beautiful fcene. Along the banks of the river the ground is a little varied, where a pleafant walk has been laid out, which is now pid:u- refquely marked by the ruins of time. The bank is here fomewhat higher than the river ; and was formerly, in this part, the foundation of the boundary- wall of the abbey; which, when ( HI ) when the wall was intire, compleatly hid the river, and all it's beautiful appendages from the walk. Time has now reftored them. Tho the wall yet holds out in fome places, it has in general failed. Large portions of it are gone ', and in other parts there are chafms, and fradures, through which the river, and the furrounding woods appear often to great advantage from the walk. Old oaks likewife, coeval with the abbey itfelf, are fcattered pro- fufely around the ruins of the wall ; fometimes fupporting it, and fometimes fupported by it. They are every where beautiful appendages; and in many places unite with the ruins of the wall into the mo ft pleafing fore-grounds ; while the river, fpread here into a lake, and the woods beyond it, form a dijiance. Among thefe ruins, I remember, fome years ago, to have feen a very extraordi- nary inftance of vegetation. The main ftem of an oak arofe in contadt with a part of the wall, which was intire; and extended one of it's principal limbs along the fummit of it. This limb, at the diftance of a few yards from the parent-tree finding a fifTure in the wall, in which there might probably be fome depofit of foil, fhot a root through it into the earth. From ( ^42 ) From hence, fhooting up again through ano- ther part of the wall, it formed a new ftem, as large as the original tree ; and from this again proceeded another horizontal branch like the former. In a great ftorm, which hap- pened on the 27th of february 178 1, both the wall, and the tree were blown down together. Great part of the area between this beautiful walk, and the abbey, is occupied by an open grove; part of which is beautiful, and part deformed. The reafon of the difference is, that one part is planted careleily by the hand of nature ; the other regularly by that of art. Of the buildings of the abbey confi- derable parts remain ; enough to fliew, that it has formerly been conflrudted in a rich Gothic flile : tho it's dimenfions were never large. The parts ftill in being of mofl confequence, are what is fuppofed to have been the refedtory, and the abbot's lodge.- The refedtory is now turned into a parifh- church, and forms a handfome aile, which is worth looking into. The abbot's lodge is known by the name of the palace, and was fitted up by the predecefTor of the lafi: duke of Montague, as a manlion ; tho he made little addition to it. The old hall ftill remains, and feme ( 143 ) fome of the other apartments. What he added, is ill-done; and what he did in the way of tafte, is whimfical, and ill-managed. He did nothing indeed that adorns this beau- tiful fcene -, many things which deform it ; and fome things fo ftrangely abfurd, that no genius but his own, could have conceived them. Inftead of calling in fome man of tafte to afllfl: him in making Beaulieu-abbey one of the mofl pleafmg fcenes in England, which it might have been ; he employed an engineer, by whofe help he drew a ditch around it ; filled it with water; threw two or three draw-bridges over it ; fecured all the avenues ; and thus, by a wonderful ftroke of art, converted an abbey into a caftle. This atchievement was performed about the time of a French war, and a rebellion ; when the duke had been raifing a regiment, and his ideas had taken a mili ary turn. It is faid too, that he made this flrange metamorpholis under an appre- henfion, left fome adventrous French privateer, taking the advantage of a full-tide, might fail up the river, and endeavour to carry him off. — Men of tafte cannot enough lament, that a fituation, fo well adapted to receive the beauties of art, fhould have fallen fo unhappily into fuch ( 144 ) fuch wretched hands; and that more money had been fpent in deforming it, than might have made it a fcene of uncommon beauty. Of the other parts of the abbey Httle re- mains. There is a court about fixty or feventy feet fquare, formerly perhaps a cloifter, which is now converted into a garden. In the inner walls remain feveral arches, now clofed, two or three of which are of beautiful Gothic. Near this court alfo ftands a fmall room, roughly arched. The arches are of ftone, centering in a point at the top : but it does not ealily appear for what purpofc fo fmall an apart- ment was intended. The kitchen is flill very intire; as this edifice often is among the ruins of abbeys. It was a ftrudture commonly of great flrength. But tho the fituatlon of Beaulieu-abbey is very pleafing ; and perhaps more monkish, than could eafily have been found in the neigh- bourhood ', yet if a noble family-manfion fhould be intended, a much grander fituation might be chofen in many parts of this beau- tiful country -, particularly on the high grounds, a little to the north of Buckler's-hard, nearly about the point, where the road from thence unites ( 145 ) Unites with that from Lymington. This lituation commands a grand fweep over the river, together with it's efluary — the woods on both fides of it, which are rich, and ample in a high degree — and in the diftance the channel, and the high grounds of the ifle of Wight, from Cowes' point t0 the Needles. The privileges of the manor of Beaulieu, which were granted by king John, were very extenfive ; and are flill preferved. No debtor can be arrefted within it's precin(fts, unlefs the lord's leave be obtained. The lords of Beaulieu alfo enjoy the liberties of the Cinque- ports ; and the fame exemption from duties ; which was the duke's principal reafon, as was obferved*, for building a town at Buckler's- hard. They hunt alfo, and deltroy the king's deer, if they flray within the purlieus of the abbey. On the day we were at Beaulieu, we found the hedges every where befet with armed men. There were not fewer than twenty, or thirty. It appeared as if fome invafion was expedted. On inquiry we were * See page 138. VOL. II. L informed. ( 146 ) informed, a flag had been feen that morning in the manor ; and all the village of Beaulieu was in arms to prevent his efcape back into the forell. The fortunate man, who fhot him, had a gratuity from the lord. Bcaulieu-manor is an extenfive fcene, being not lefs than twenty-eight miles in circum- ference. It confifts chiefly of woodlands ; and belides the deer, which accidentally ftray into it from the foreft, contains a great number of deer in it's own domains. Among thefe rough grounds are intermixed many valuable farms -, and the whole yields annually about As we leave Beaulieu-abbey, along the Lyndhurft road, we fkirt the upper lake, which is formed by the tide above the bridge. It is a beautiful Iheet of water, about a mile in circumference, furrounded, on every fide with woods, which in many parts fall into it from the rifing grounds. As the view opens, we look full up the lake. On the right the abbey appeals among the woods to great advantage. On the left, a winding road runs along it's margin; except where in ( '+7 ) in fome parts it is intercepted by clumps of trees. In front, the woods recede a little from the water, and leave a fpace of flat meadow, which has a good efted: in contraft with the riling grounds, and woods on each fide.— — The whole fcene is pleafing. Soon after we leave the lake, the river dwindles into a fluggifli, little, bull-rufh flream. The meadow, however through which it winds, are adorned with wood, and flill continue beautiful. At a place called the Fighting-ccch, well known to the lurking poacher, the manor of Beaulieu ends ; and we entered the wild fcenes of the foreft. Deep woods received us. Through thefe we rode near two miles, riiing gently from the river; and then emerged into an open fcene, called Culverly -heath — one of thofe beautiful woody-fKirted lawns, of which we had feen fo many in the weftern parts of the foreft; and yet the features of this were different from them all. We flood on a rough knoll, decorated with a few full-grown oaks, defcending in front into a lawn, which appeared to ftretch about a L 2 mile ( 148 ) mile in front; and a league on each fide. It was ikirted in every part with woods, fhooting out, and retiring in fkreens on each fide ; and folding over each other. The whole was a pleafing piece of foreft-perfpedive, and the lawn one of the mofl pidurefque compofitions we had met with, in this mode of landfcape. Soon after we left Culverly-heath, we en- tered another fcene of the fame kind — larger, but lefs varied. In Calverly-heath the ma- terials of landfcape were brought together in fo perfed: a manner, as to produce a pic- turefque whole. Here, through an awkward- nefs in the compofition, there was but an indifferent whole, tho many of the parts in themfelves were beautiful. From this heath we entered a large wood, called Denny. It has once been a noble fcene, but it is now ftripped of it's princi- pal honours, and confifts chiefly of beech, with a few decrepid oaks ftragling among them. Every where we faw noble Jiools, as they call the flumps of fuch trees as have been cut down ; and could form an idea of their grandeur, by the refpedlful fpace they have formerly occupied, None of the ( H9 ) the trees in the neighbourhood feem to have approached within a confiderable diftance of them. In this wood, which makes a part of Denny-walk, the lodge belonging to it, is feated. Here we left the Lyndhurfl road, which we had thus far purfued from Beaulieu j and turning to the left, dired:ed our courfe to Whitley-ridge-lodge. In the neighbourhood of this place we found fome beautiful fcenes. One of them has peculiar merit. It is a fmall foreft-lawn, containing about feven or eight acres fomewhat circular, and fkirted with oaks, thickets, and open groves j but they are difpofed in fo happy a manner, and fo much broken by clumps {landing out from the other woods, that all the regularity of it's form is removed. This lawn is the favourite haunt of deer in fummer-evenings ; and their conftant feeding upon it, has given the iinefl texture to it's turf. It is rough enough to fliew it's alliance with the foreft ; but, like fome of nature's faireft forms, it has fo polifhed an appearance, that with the fmalleft improvement it might accompany the moil cultivated fcene. L 3 From ( ISO ) From hence we continued our rout through woods, like thofe of Denny, as far as Lady- crofs-lodge. Thefe ravaged parts of the foreft, tho they ftill afford many pleaiing fcencs, yet deprived of their noblefl trees, are de- prived alfo of their principal beauty. Tho inferior wood, as we had frequent opportunity to obferve, might produce diftant fcenery, yet when we enter the internal parts of a foreft, v^^e wifh for objeds of grandeur. In foreft-glades efpecially, where the fcenes are fmall, large trees on the fore-ground are almoft neceirary. From the woods of Lady-crofs, we entered the weftern fide of that vaft heath, which occupies all the middle ground between the rivers of Lymington, and Beaulieu. It is not a fcene, like that of Culverly, and others, in which the woods, and open country bear a proportion to each other; it is diffufe, and unadorned. The circumambient woods are too inconfiderable j and yet it is every where furrounded with them. Thofe of Heathy- { '51 ) Hcathy-Dilton occupied the right; and in- troduced, as we fkirted this fide of the heath, fome httle fcenery : but all other parts were naked. In front indeed ranged a meagre fkirting of wood ; beyond which the high grounds of the ille of Wight formed a dif- tance. As we proceeded farther on this heath, Norley-wood arofe at fome diftance on the left. Towards this, acrofs the heath, we bent our courfe, as we were told it afforded fome of the moll; beautiful intefual fcenery of any part of the foreil:. Norley-wood flretches about two miles in length ; and taking a femicircular turn, forms fome heathy grounds, which hang to the fouth, into a bay.-: As a diftant objed; however, it's woods polTefs only common beauties. To fee it's oaks in their glory, we muft enter it's recefTes. Their forms are remarkably pi(flurefque j and their combinations are as pleafmg as their forms. Thefe combinations are greatly affifted by a profufion of holly, and other humble plants, which are interfperfed among the trees. This delightful fcenery alfo is happily opened. Several roads winding in different directions, through the wood, form L 4 a variety ( 152 ) a variety of little recefles. Sometimes we were prefented with a longer reach ; fome- times with a fadden turn : and the beauty generally arofe from feeing little removed clumps of wood, in Waterlo's ftile, varioudy rifing behind one or two ftately trees on the fore-ground, vvhofe dark branches gave their inlightened foliage effed. Other varieties are introduced by the interfeBions of roads ; and others by the grafs running among full-grown trees, or clumps of underwood ; Where frequent tufts of holly, box, or thorn. Steal on the greenfvverd ; but admit fair fpace. For many a mofTy maze to wind between. In fhort, we found inflances here, in great perfedlion, of every mode of fcenery, which I have already defcribed in the internal parts of a foreft*. There is alfo a circumftance conneded with this wood, which is rarely found in thofe w^oods, which occupy the middle regions of the forefl ; and that is a hamlet of thofe little trefpaffing cottages fcattered about it, which have already been mentioned-f-. They • See vol. I. page 211. f See vol. I. page 216. commonly ( '53 ) commonly fland detached, and one or other of them meets the eye in various parts, and adds much to the fcene. I have already ex- plained, how far fuch circumflances affed: both natural, and artificial landfcape*. In a few years however, all the beautiful fcenery of Norley-wood will vanifh. It's deft:rud:ion has long been expe6led ; and was lately determined. In the beginning of the year 178 1, a band of wood-cutters entered it, with orders from the furveyor of the foreft to cut a hundred of the befl trees, which he had previoufly marked for the ufe of the navy. Thefe trees were fet apart for building fhips of the iirfl and fecond rates. The next year another fall of the fame kind of timber was ordered : and in three or four years, when all the noble trees are gone, the refufe will be deftined to fliips of inferior fize, frigates, floops, and cutters. During feven years it is fuppofed this wood will yield a confiderable fupply to the yards of Portfmouth. At prefent however a refpite is given it; and- the de- predations, which have been made, have not yet greatly injured it's beauty. In fome parts • See vol. I. page 217. they ( 154 ) they may have improved it*, by feveral open- ings, w^hich the wood-cutters have made ; tho the fcenes of Norley-wood admit improve- ments of this kind, lefs than almoft any other fcenes in the foreil j as they naturally abound in openings, and receffes. If a few more attacks however be made upon it, it's glory will be extindt; and Norley-wood like other ravaged woods, will fuggeft only the remem- brance of a fcene. And yet the various appendages of wood- cutting — piles of bark, and fcattered boughs, and timber-wains, are not unpleaiing objedls-f-. The deep, hollow tone alfo of the wood-man's axe, or of axes refponfive to each other, in different parts of the wood, are notes in full harmony with the fcene, tho their mufic is a knell. The fallen tree alfo, lying with it's white, peeled branches on the ground, is not only beautiful in itfelf ; but if it be not fcattered in too great profulion (for white is an unac- commodating hue) it forms an agreeable con- traft with the living trees. But when we fee it deprived of it's beautiful ramification, fquared. • See vol. I. page 266. f See vol I. page 267. and I I ( ^S5 ) and fawn in lengths, as it fometimes continues Ions: to lie about the foreft, it becomes an objed of deformity ; and we lament what it once was, without receiving any equivalent from it's prefcnt ftate. It may here alfo be remarked, that the king's timber is much more pid:urefque, than fuch timber, as is bought, and cut by the mer- chant. He, with cautious, and difcerning eye, {lands at the bottom of the tree, while it is yet alive j and having examined every twifting limb, and deftined every part to it's proper fervice, lops them off, one by one^ and then fells the tree, a deformed and mutilated trunk. The royal wood-cutter is lefs nice. He fells the tree as it grows ; and leaves the dock-men to afcertain the ufes of it's feveral parts. Two or three of the main limbs are generally reft, and fplintered in the fall -, but that is not his concern : in the mean time, the ruin of the whole, with all it's fpreading parts about it, retains ftill a degree of pifturefque beauty. ( 157 ) SECT. VIII. A voyage up BeauUeu-river. THE river Avon is the boundary of the forefl on the w^eft; and the bay of Southampton on the eaft. Neither of thefe rivers therefore properly belongs to the forefl. The only rivers, which may juftly be called foreft- rivers, are thofe of Lymington, and Beaulieu. The former of thefe we have already examined in various parts j the latter only about the abbey of Beaulieu. We deter- mined therefore to inveftigate the whole by a voyage. We took boat in Lymington-rivcr; which at low-water winds beautifully, before it enter the fea*. Its banks indeed are mud, but of the beft fpecies ; for they are covered, like the other mud- lands of this country, with See page gj, fea-grafs. ( is8 ) fea-grafs, which gives theai the air of mea- dows when the tide retires. The returning water over-runs all the boundaries of the river, and makes it neceffary, for the ufe of veffels of any burden, to mark its channel with flakes. The mouth of the river is diftinguilhed by a larger poft, known among iifhermen, by the name of 'Jack in the bajket. It ftands about three miles from Lymington- harbour. At this boundary we entered the channel, which divides the coaft of Hampjlnre from the ijle of Wight, The former, which ftretches along the left, appears as a flat woody diftance, juft raifed above the edge of the water; and unmarked by any objedl of confequence. They who are acquainted with the country, can point out, here and there, a houfe, jud feen among the trees. On the right, the ille of Wight makes a better appearance; and yet not a pidturefque one. It confifts of a double ridge of high lands; which, in almoft every part, are ill- fhaped, and in fome parts the upper, and lower grounds follow each other in a difa- greeable parallel. Indeed we feldom fee a continuation of high grounds, through a fpace of ( J59 ) of near ten miles, forming ip unpleafant a delineation. At leaft it feems fuch to any eye affimulated to the grandeur of a moun-f tainous country. The water-line of the ifland appears to more advantage. Among many fmaller in- dentations of the coaft, the bays of Totland, and New-town, are confiderable. Totland- bay is formed by the weftern point of the ifland, called the Needle- cliffs, on one fide; and on the other by that promontary, which fhoots out oppofite to Hurfl-caftle, ufually called Sconce -point . It is a rude, wild fcene^ tho the cliffs themfelves are rather of the tame fpecies ; without any of thofe large parts, and projed:ions, which give a rocky coafi: its moft pidlurefque form. New-town-bay affords an opening of a different kind. It is a femicircular fweep into a country highly cultivated ; which at a proper diflance, when the feveral objecSts of cultivation are mafled together, has a good effect . As we approached the mouth of Beaulieu- river, it's opening promifed little. The eaflern fide forms a low, lineal, difagreeable fhore. The ( «6o ) The vveflcrn fide is ftill more difagreeable. It confifts of a flat tongue of land, called Needfore-point^ , which runs out a confiderable way; and at low- water unites with the mud- lands. When the tide flows, it is in part covered with water. We found it in this latter fltuation ; and our boat made a fliort pufh over it, inftead of going round by the mouth of the river. It is fomev/hat remarkable, that there is one of thefe fpits of land, near the mouth of each of thefe forefl-rivers j and alfo at the ' mouth of Southampton-bay. Huril-caflile, formerly intended to guard the pafl'age through the Needles, occupies one near the mouth of Lymington-river ; and Calfliot-caftle another, at the entrance of Southampton-bay. On Needfore-point, which is the middle one, a fortrefs was thought unnecefliiry. But tho thefe fpits of land are remarkable, they are eaflly accounted for. The united force of wind and tide from the fouth-wefl:, and * Needfore, that is. Needs -fliore, but the Jh was not ufed in Saxon orthography. Hence Needfore, Stanfore, and other terminations of that kind on this coaft ; and Windfor, Hedfor, &c. on the Thames. wefl:, ( i6i ) weft, fo much greater and more continued^ than from any other quarter, is the natural, and obvious caule. The fame thing happens at the entrance of Portfmouth-harbour. Spit- head is the barrier of it's channel, which runs clofe along the eaflern fl:iore under South-fea-caftle, and Portfmouth-wall, much in the fame manner as the channel of Beaulieu, or rather Exbury-haven, runs clofe under the fhore from Leap. Wherever there is a low, or gravelly coaft, undefended, on the fouthern lide of our ifland, it gives way to the fury of the Atlantic winds and tides. The rocks of Purbeck prote(5l the gravelly coaft about Pool, and Chrift-church. To the eaft of thefe places there have certainly been depre- dations. Wight defends Portfmouth, and the ihores eaftward as far as Arundel ; which would probably go to fea, if they were equally unpro- tedtcd from the weft, as from the eaft. We had now entered Beaulleu-river> which appears to be about half a mile broad. For fome time Needfore-point on the left, con- tinued a low, winding ftiore^ cloftng us in behind; tedious, and unvaried. But, on the VOL. II. M other ( i62 ) other fide, the grounds began to form a beau- tiful bank. As the reach opened, the fkreens improved. The high grounds about Exbury formed them- felves into a point covered with wood ; through which Exbury chapel juft appeared. The other lidc-fkreen was compofed of ancient woods, where the axe feemed never to have entered. The river ftill continued as wide as at the entrance ; flretching in front into an ample bay, confined by woods ; but the extremity of the bay was foftened by it's length, into a fecond-dif- tance. By degrees we began to wind round Exbury- point ; which flill continued a principal feature in the view. But tho it had greatly changed it's appearance -, the woods and meadows, and rough grounds were ftill very agreeably in- termixed. On the other fide, the woods had taken a fweep with the river ; and were thrown into good perfpedlive. They mantled down almofl to the water; which was bordered only by a narrow edging of meadow. Here the river affording eafy accefs to the herds of the neighbouring paflures, they came down for refrefhment during the fultry hours of a fummer-noon. While they cooled themfelves in the river, the woods behind fheltered them from I ( i63 ) from the fun ; and formed a good back-ground to their feveral pidurefque groups. The front of this grand reach maintained long the fame appearance, confining chiefly of woody grounds foftened by didance. Nor did the fide-ikreens vary much. Continued woods flill rofe on the left; and on the right a portion of rough paflurage mingled with them. We now came in {i?ht of Buckler's-hard * on the left, where the large timber-yards, houfes, and (h'vps on the flocks, made a violent, chafm in tlie landfcape. A quantity of timber fcattercd about a yard, makes a very unpi(fturefque appearance. It affords a variety of parts without a whole. And yet in a timber-yard, there are flieds and other circumftances, which are not wholly void of pid:urefque images. In a ililp on the flocks, through every ftage as it advanes, there is a degree of beauty, which confifts chiefly in the variety of it's fweeping lines. * See an account of Buckler's-hard page 137. The word Hard fignifies only a firm caufeway made upon the mud, for the fake of landing. M 2 At ( i64 ) At Buckler's-hard the reach of the river is very intcrefling, Oa the right are the woods of BeauUeu, winding round, with great richnefs, into, a front-fkreen. On the left, where wood before abounded, the grounds now run more into paflurage; tho far from beins: deftitute of furniture. One decoration they have, which is not unpleafing. Where the meadows Ml down to the water, they are fecured from the tide, by low, ftaked banks, which follow the winding banks of the river. If they had run in a ftraight line, they would have been a great deformity ; but as they wind, inflead of being ofFenlive objedts, they give a fort of rough, irregular termination to the line of the river. If we painted the fcene, we fhould have no objection to introduce them ; both for the reafon given, and alfo for the fake of the refledions they form in the water. They have fometimes alfo the beauty of contrafl, when the other parts of the bank are without them. From Buckler's- hard the river takes a fweep to the right. The woods likewife, on that fide, follow it's courfe; and fpreading in great luxuriance, to the water's edge, throw a gloom over half the river. A noble bay, land- I ( 165 ) land-locked with wood, begins foon to open. As this fcene removes, the woods take a different form, fhaping themfelves into re- moved fKreens, following each other. • Another reach brought us witliin fight of Beaulieu — the bridge and the abbey form- ing the centre of the view : the river, in the mean time, lofing very little of it's gran- deur, from the firft reach to the laft. Thus we finiflicd our voyage up the river of Beaulieu ; which in a courfe of near three leagues from the fea, forms about five, or fix grand fvveeps. The fitnple idea it prcfents throughout, is that of a winding tide-river flowing up a woody, mid iininhahited country ; which is a fingular character for an Englifli river to afllime. Here and there we fee a houfc, and a few fpots of culti- vation 'j but fo little, that they make no impreflion on the general character of the fcene. The pid:urefque eye, ufed to land- fcape, eafily overlooks thefe little obftacles ; and carries on the general idea undiilurbed. The bufy fcene of fhip-building at Buck- ler's-hard, rather aided, than injured the idea: M 3 for . ( i66 ) for as no one would expe6t a fcene of this kind in fo retired a place ; it feeir.ed as if the adventurers, who had failed up the river, had landed here either to refit their fliips, or to build others for the purpofe of purfuing their difcoveries. Miratur nemus infuetum fulgentia longe Scuta virum fluvio, pi^tafque innare carinas. The idea of a wild country, in a natural flate, however pidurefque, is to the generality of people but an unpleafing one. There are few, who do not prefer the bufy fcenes of cultivation to the grandeft of nature's rough producflions. In general indeed, when we meet vvith a defcription of a pleafing country, we hear of hay-cocks, or waving corn-fields, or labourers at their plough, or other cir- cumftances and obje(fls, which the pi a clofe, defcending walk from the houfe, fol- lowing the diredion of the fareft-boundary> unites the garden. ; The woody bank, which is the grand circumftance of the view, having thus circled the meadows, falls away towards the eftuary of the river; and becomes one of it's high inclofures. On the other fide it is interfetted by a rifmg ground, on which ftands the town of Lymington at the diilance of a mile*. Over the dip, formed by this interfedlion, rifes, as if fitted for the place, a lofty part of the ifle of Wight ; from which a ridge of high land continues, paffing over the town as a back-ground. Below the ifland appears a fmall catch of the channel : but the inter- vening woods of the eaftern fcreen have now almoft intercepted it; interpoling one beau- tiful circumftance in the room of another. • See the fituation of Lymington defcribed, page 94. Some ( 241 ) Some of the chief modes of incidental beauty, which vary thefe few parts of land- fcape, are thefe. In a morning the effed: is often beautiful, when the fun riling over the trees of the eafterrl bank, pours his Hoping rays upon their tufted heads ; while all the bottom of the valley, not yet having caught the fplendor, is duflcy, and obfcure*. The effecft flill continues beautiful, as the fun rifes higher. Some prominent part of the woody fcreen always catches the light ; while the recefles among the trees ftill hold the depth of the morning-fliadow. The difpofition of the landfcape is as well adapted to receive the effedis of an evening, as of a morning- fun. As all the eaftern fcreen is richly, and pifturefquely wooded, the illu- mination of the trees from the weft is generally pleafmg j efpecially as the meadows, de- fcending to the eaft, and fouth^ and of courfe declining from the fummer-fun, prefent large malTcs of ihadc. But the effedt of light is beft {ten in an evening-ftorm, when it rifes from the eaft, • See an efFeft of this kind dcfcribud more at length. Vol. I. p. 241. VOL. II, R behind ( 242 ) behind the woody bank ; while the fun finking in the weft, throws a fplendor upon the trees, which feen to fuch advantage againft the darknefs of the hemifphere, fhews the full j^fFedt of light, and fliade. In winter, the ifland is generally of an indiftindt, grey hue : but in fummer, when the evening-fun gets more to the north, it's declining ray ftrikes the diftant cliffs, and broken grounds of the ifland-fhores, and gives them a great refplendency. As thele broken grounds run behind the town, the efFed: of the chimnies, and houfes, when feen in fhadovv againft the warm tints of the ifland-fhores, is often very pidturefque; much more fo, than when the fun throws it's light upon them. And here we fee exemplified a truth in landfcape, that the light breaks a town into parts — fhews it's poverty — and dif- fipates it's effed : whereas all the parts of a town fcea in fliadow, are blended together^ and it becomes one grand object. I fpeak however chiefly of towns in the fituation of this, placed along the ridge of an eminence, and about a mile from the eye. In remote diftance, a ray of light thrown upon a town has often a good effe^,-— — Thefe fpleadid lights ( 243 ) lights of an evening-fun upon the cliffs and broken fhores of the ifland, appear firft about the beginning of aprilj but they grow flronger, as the power of the fun increafes. Various other tints alfo of a bluifh, purpHfh, and yel- lowish hue, the effedls of evening-funs in fummer, occafionally invert the ifland. But hazinefs, and mifts are here, as in other places, the great fources of variety. In general, they have a good effed ; but fometimes a bad one. As the remote part of the landfcape, which confifts of the ifle of Wight, does not immediately conned: with the woods on one fide, and the town of Lymington on the other, but is feparated from them by the channel, which is about two, or three leagues acrofs, it of courfe happens, that when a partial fog removes the ifland alone from the fight, a violent chafm is left in the landfcape : there is no gradation ; the riling ground, on which Lymington fl:ands, appears flaring againfl a foggy fky without any fupport of difl:ance. Nothing can fhew more flrongly the ufe of diflances, in com- pleating the harmony of a view. When the feveral parts of a country melt into each other, as in the grand diftance we have juft been R 2 furveying I ( 244 ) furveying from Caflile- Mai wood, a fog, or miil can ?iever introduce any great mifchief. It comes gradually on ; and therefore only gradually obfcures. It is the chafm, which occafions the blank. At the fame time, not- withftanding the ifland is not gradually connedfed with the other parts of the country, the land- fcape lofes in no other modification of the atmofphere. If the mift be more general, fo as to obfcure not only the ifland, but the town alfo, and in proportion the nearer parts of the view, the effed; is often beautiful. The woods of the eaftern bank being obfcured, the firs of the lawn ftanding much nearer, rife flrongly in oppofition : the eye is pleafed with the contrail ; while the imagination is pleafed alfo with diving into the obfcurity, and forming it's own objedts. The line alfo which the high grounds of the ifland form upon the iky, is fometimes ilrong, and fometimes faint ; fometimes alfo a part of it is broken, or intercepted by clouds, which gives a contrail to the other part. Again, the miil is fometimes fo light, that it removes the ifland feveral leagues farther from the eye : yet fl:ill the landfcape partaking of the general effe^, preferves it's harmony. Sometimes ( 245 ) Sometimes alfo, after a heavy fliower, when the air, as the rain goes off, becomes perfecftly diaphanous, Hke an ItaHan fky, and all the the vapours are precipitated, the ifland will advance many leagues nearer the eye : every part of it will be perfedly confpicuous ; even the little divilions of property will appear faintly llcetched upon it : yet ftill the clearnefs of the other parts of the landfcape according with it, all will be in place, and a general harmony prefer ved. Thefe are chiefly fummer-effetfls. I have often however feen beautiful eifeds in winter of a fmiilar kind j efpecially in a morning fomewhat inclining to froft -, when the rays of the fun have appeared, as it were, flrug- gling between the hazinefs of the ifland, the fmoke of the town, and the fplendor of the rifing fun. In one part difl:in6lnefs has pre- vailed ; in another, obfcurity. 1 have feen. alfo fomething of the fame effcO: in a winter- noon ; only rendered perhaps fl:ill more beau- tiful by fl:reaks of ruddy fun-fet pafling along the horizon, and joining in the conflid:. In the year 1783, when fuch uncommon fogs prevailed over Europe, the appearances of the ifland v^ere often very ftrange. Earth, R 3 clouds. I ( 246 ) clouds, and water, confounded together in vaft combinations, feemed often to have exchanged places ; the water would appear above the iflandj and. the clouds below both. But thefe appearances were fo uncommon, that they fcarce deferve mention ; nor indeed were they often in themfelves pidlurefque. I omit mentioning here the variety, which the feafons produce on this landfcape ; tho as it is a woody fcene, the effed: is often Angu- larly beautiful, efpecially in autumn. If then fo great a variety of incidents arife from the few circumftances of landfcape, which are found at this place; with what variety may we fuppofe landfcapes of a larger iize, and compofed of more complicated parts, may be attended ? particularly, extenfive dif- tances, which are of all others attended with the greateft variety of incidental beauty. Every landfcape indeed hath fomething pecuUar to itfelf, which difpofes it more or lefs to receive the incidents of light, and weather in fome peculiar manner. An open fea-coaft, one fhould think of fo fimple a conftrudlion, as to be little liable to receive any change ; and yet I have flood upon a fea-coaft, on a fun-fhiny cloudy day, when the wind has been rather brilk; ( 247 ) brlfk ; and have in lefs than an hour, feen the whole pidlure under a dozen different forms, from the varying of the lights in the iky, on the horizon, on the furface of the water, or on ibme part of the coaft. The conclulions from all thefe remarks are, that every landfcape is, in itfelf, a fcene of great variety — that there are few landfcapes, which have not, at fome time or other, their happy moments — that a landfcape of extent, and beauty will take the full period of a year, to fhew itfelf in all the forms it is capable of receiving — and that he who does not attend to the variations of the atmofphere, lofes half the beauty of his views. R 4 SECT. j ( 249 ) SECT. XI. Of the animals, which frequent the foreft. HAVING thus taken a view of the moft beautiful fcenes of the forefl, it is laftly proper to people them. No landfcape is complete without it's figures. I fhall make a few obfervations therefore on fuch animals, as frequent the foreft; which the imagination of the reader may fcatter about, as he pleafes, in the feveral fcenes, which have been prefented to him. The human inhabitants of the forefl have already been mentioned*. * See p. 40. Adi- ( 250 ) A diminutive breed of horfes run wild in New-forefl. In general however the horfe is private property ; tho fometimes with difficulty afcertained. Numbers of people, who have lands in the neighbourhood of the forefl, have a right of commoning in it; and moft of the cottagers, who border on it, affume that right. Many of them have two or three mares -, and fome, who make it their bufinefs to breed colts, have droves. The horfe is gregarious. Herds of twenty, or thirty are often feen feeding together ; in fummer efpecially, when they have plenty of pafturage, and can live as they pleafe. In winter they are obliged to feparate, and feek their food, as they can find it. In general indeed they are left, in all feafons, to take their chance in the forefl:. Where there is no expence, there can be no great lofs -, and what is faved, is fo much gained. In marfhy parts a fevere winter often goes hardly with them. But in dry grounds, where heath and furze abound, they pick up a tolerable win- ter- fubfiftence ; efpecially if they have learned the little arts of living, which neceffity teaches. Of ( 251 ) Of thefe arts, one of the mofl ufeful is to bruife, and pound with their fore-feet, the prickly tops of furze. This operation, which I have often feen performed, prepares the rigid diet of a furze- bufli in fome degree for maliication ; and renders it rather lefs ofFenfive to the palate When fuch colts, as have long run wild, are to be caught for fale, their ideas of liberty are fo unconfined, from pafturing in fo wild a range, that it is matter of no little difficulty to take them. Sometimes they are caught by flight of hand, with a rope and a noofe. But if this method fail, they are commonly hunted down by horfe-men, who relieve each other. Colt-hunting is a common prac- tice in the foreft. The colts which feed on Obergreen, are fometimes taken by the following flratagem. In this part runs a long bog, defcribed, under the name of Long- flade-bottom; which is crolfed by a mole, thrown over it*. With this paflage the colt is well acquainted; and on being purfued, is eafily driven towards it. When he is about ♦ See p. 124. the ( 252 ) the middle of the mole, two or three men flart up in front, and oblige him to leap into the bog, where he is intangled, and feized. At all the neighbouring fairs, thefe horfes are a principal commodity, and are bought up for every purpofe, to which a horfe can be applied. Diminutive as they are, you may often fee half a dozen c^ them draining in a waggon : and as it is fafhionable to drive them in light carriages, their price has been inhanced. It is a little fortune to a poor cottager, if he happen to polfefs three or four colts, that are tolerably handfome, and match well. He may probably fell them for ten, or twelve pounds a piece. In point of value, the New-foreft horfe would rife higher, if the fame care were taken in breeding him, which was formerly taken* 5 and which is ftill in fome degree, taken in the neighbouring foreft of Bere; where, I have heard, the keepers are ordered to deftroy all horfes, which, at three years of age, are ♦ See Manwood on foreft-law, page 29. under ( 253 ) under thirteen hands ', and all mares under twelve. There is another evil likewife, which tends to injure the foreft-colt ; and that is, put- ting him to buiinefs at too early an age. Tho a fmall horfe attains maturity earlier, than a large one; yet thefe horfes, bred chiefly by indigent people, and generally of little value, are introduced much fooner to labour, than abler, and better horfes commonly are. The fame, and exploits are ftill remembred of a little beautiful, grey horfe, which had been fuffered to run wild in the foreft, till he was eight years of age ; when he had at-' tained his full flrength. His firll: fenfations, on the lofs of his liberty, were like thofe of a wild-beaft. He flew at his keeper with his open mouth ; or rearing on his hind- legs, darted his fore-feet at him with the mofl malicious fury. He fell however into hands, that tamed him. He became by de- grees patient of tlie bit, and at length fufl^ered a rider. From this time his life was a fcene of glory. He was well known on every road in the county ; was the favorite of every groom ; and the conftant theme of every oilier. ( 254 ) oilier. But in the chafe his prowefs was moft fhewn. There he carried his mafter, with fo much fwiftnefs, eafe, and firmnefs, that he always attracfted the eyes of the company, more than the game they pur- fued. The New-foreft horfe is often fuppofed to be of Spanifh extrad:ion ; from anceflors, imagined to have been fliip-wrecked on the coaft of Hampfhire, in the time of the armada. But I look on this as a fpecies of the ancient vaunt, genus a yonje fummo -, and to deferve as little attention. Some of them have a form, which would not difgrace fo noble a lineage. The grey horie reprefented in the annexed plate, is among the moft beautiful. But in general, the croup of the forefl-horfe is low; and his head ill-fet on, having what the jockies call a Jiiff jaw. Of this defed: a refemblance is given in the horfe on the left, whofc head is fet on, as thofe of the foreft-horfes commonly are. Their claim therefore to high lineage muft in general refl: more on their good qualities, than on their Jjeauty — on the hardinefs of their nature— on their uncommon flrength — on their agility, and I I ( 25S ) and furenefs of foot, which they probably' acquire by conflantly lifting their legs among furze. But tho the form of the New-foreft horfe. is feldom beautiful ; yet as the ornament of a foreft fcene, he is very pidlurefque. The. horfe, in his natural ftate, rough with all his mane about him, and his tail waving in the wind, as he feeds, is always beautiful j but particularly in fo wild a fcene as this, which he graces exceedingly. On this fubjedt I cannot forbear digreffing a little, (and I hope the critical reader will not be too faftidious,) on the great indignity the horfe fuffers from the mutilation of his tail, and ears. Within this century, I believe, the barbarous cuftom of docking horfes came in ufcj and hath pafled through various mo- difications, like all other cuftoms, which are not founded in nature, and truth. A few years ago the Jhort dock was the only tail (if it may be called fuch) in fafhion, both in the army, and in carriages. The abfurdity how- ever of this total amputation began to appear. The gentlemen ©f the army led the way. They ( 256 ) They acknowledged the beauty, and ufe oF the tail, as nature made it. The jhort deck every where difappeared; and all dragoon-horfes paraded with long tails. The 7iag-tail however ftill continued in ufe. Of this there are feveral fpecies, all more or lefs mutilated. The moll deformed one is nicked-tail ', fo nam.ed from a cruel operation ufed in forming it. The under finews of the dock being divided, the tail ftarts upwards, diredly contrary to the pofition, which nature intended. The nag- tail is ftill it^w in all genteel carriages. Nor will any perfon of fafhion ride a horfe without one. Even the gentlemen of the army, who have fhewn the moil fenfe in the affair of horfe- tails, have been fo milled, as to introduce the nag-tail into ,the light-horfe 3 tho it would be as dif- ficult to give a reafon now for the nag-tail^ as formerly for ^^ jhort -dock. Two things are urged in defence of this cruel mutilation— ^the utility , and the beauty of it. Let us briefly as pafTible, examine both. To make an animal ufeful is, no doubt, the firft confideration : and to make a horfe fo, we muft neceflarily make him fuffer fome things. )l>//ie ^:Hi%/c/t /tiu . o/Ar .}af//7 >/' /r/f/. ( 257 ) things, which are unnatural, becaufe we take him out of a Jiate of nature. He mufl be fed with hay, and corn in the winter, which he cannot get in his open paflures : for if he have exercife beyond nature, he muft have fuch food, as will enable him to bear it. As it is neceffary likewile to make our roads hard, and durable, it is necelTary alfb to give the horfe an iron hoof, that he may travel over them without injuring his feet. But all this has nothing to do with his tail, from which 710 incumbrance arifes. Yes, fays the advocate for decking ; as it is necelTary for the horfe to travel, to hunt, and to race, it is ufeful to lighten him of of every incumbrance. And as it is neceilary for him to travel through dirty roads -, it is ufeful to rid him of an inftrument, which is continually collecfling dirt, and lafhing it over himfelf, and his rider. To eafe your horfe of every incumbrance in travelling, is certainly right. You fliould fee that his bridle, and faddle, (which are his great incumbrances) are as eafy as poffible: and that the weight he carries, or draws, be proportioned to his ftrength. But depend upon it,' he receives no incumbrance from nature. VOL. II. S It ( 2S8 ) It Is a maxim among all true philofophers, that nature has given nothiiig tJi vain : and there can be no reafonable doubt, but that nature has given the horfe his tail to balance, and affift his motions. That this is the cafe, feems plain from the ufe he makes of it. When the animal is at reft, his tail is pendent : but when he is in violent action j he raifes, and fpreads it, as a bird does in the fame fituation. Would the fwallow, or the dove be affifted in their flight by the lofs of their tails ? or the greyhound in his fpeed by dock-' ing him ? For myfelf, I have no doubt, but if the experiment w^ere tried at New- market, which I fuppofe it never was, the horfe with his long tail, however the literati there might laugh at him, would not be in the leaft injured in his fpeed; and would certainly anfwer better, in all his fudden turns, to the intention of his rider. He would ex- tend, and fpread his helm : it would fteer his way ; and we fliould feldom hear of his running out of his courfe, or on the wrong fide of the poft. Befides, his tail probably aflifts him even in his common exertions ; and balances his body, when he trots, and prevents his ftum- bling. ( 259 ) bllng. I have heard a gentleman, who had travelled much in the eaft, remark, that the Turklfh, and Arabian horfes rarely flumblej which he attributed, and with much appear- ance of truth, to their long tails. But whatever ufe the tail may be to the horfe in aSlioriy it is acknowledged on all hands to be of infinite ufe to him, at reft. Whoever fees the horfe grazing in fummer, and obferves the conflant ufe he makes of his long tail in lafhing the flies from his fides, muft be perfuaded, that it is a moft ufeful inftrument : and muft be hurt to fee him fidget a fhort dock, back, and forward, with ineffectual attempts to rid himfelf of fome plague, which he cannot reach. As to the obje(^tion againft the tail, as an inftrument, which is continually gathering dirt, and lafling it around, if there be any truth in what I have already obferved, this little objedion diffolves itfelf ; efpecially as the inconvenience may with great eafe be remedied, when the road is dirty, either by knotting up the tail, or by tying it with a leathern -ft rap. S 2 But { 26o ) But whatever becomes of iitUlty, the horfe is certainly more beautifuU we are told, without his dangling tail. What a handfome figure he makes, when he carries both his ends well I This is the conftant language of horfe- dealers, flable-keepers, and grooms ; and fuch lan- guage, tho originating in taftlefs ignorance, and mere prejudice, has drawn over men of fenfe, and underftanding. It is inconceive- able, how delufively the eye fees, as well as the underftanding, when it is fafcinated, and led afide by fafhion, and cuflom. Aflbciated ideas of various kinds give truth a different air. When we fee a game-cock with all his fprightly adions, and gorgeous plumes about him, we acknowledge one of the moft beau- tiful birds in nature. But when we fee him armed with ileel, and prepared for battle; we cry, what a fcare-crow ! But a cock- fighter, with all the ideas of the pit about him, will conceive, that in this latter ftate, he is in his greatefl: beauty : and if his pidlure be drawn, it muft: be drawn in this ridiculous manner. I have often feen it. Let ( 26i ) Let jockies, and ftable-boys, and cock- fighters keep their own abfurd ideas : but let not men, who pretend to fee, and think for themfelves, adopt fuch ridiculous conceits. — In arts, we judge by the rules of art. In nature, we have no criterion but the forms of nature. We criticize a building by the rules of architecflure : but in judging of a tree, or a mountain; we judge by the mofl beautiful forms of each, which nature hath given us. It is thus in other things. From nature alone we have the form of a horfe. Siaould we then feek for beauty in that objed:, in our own wild conceptions; or recur to the great original, from whence we had it ? We may be affured, that nature's forms are always the moft beau- tiful; and therefore we fhould endeavour to corre(fl cur ideas by hers. If however we cannot give up the point, let us at leafl: be confiftent. If we admire a horfe without a tail, or a cock without feathers, let us not laugh at the Chinefe for admiring the difpro- portioned foot of his miflrefs ; nor at the Indian, for doting on her black teeth, and tattooed cheeks. For myfelf, I cannot con- ceive, why it ihould make a horfe more beautiful to take his tail from him, than it S 3 would ( 262 ) would make a man to clap a tall to him*. With regard indeed to the natural beauty of a horfe's tail, we want little reafoning on the fubjedl. In conjunction with his mane, it gives him dignity. It hides his flradling buttocks ; which is a decency in nature, we fhould admire, rather than deflroy. It forms a contraft among the legs. The four equal legs of every animal are it's greateft de- formity j and their famenefs of courfe gives the painter the mojft trouble in the management of them. In many of her forms indeed, where nature does not feem to aim at beauty, flie neglecfts this economy : but as if flie meant the horfe for one of her moft elegant produc- tions, (he has provided for him in this refped: alfo, by giving him a graceful flow of hair, which hiding fometimes one leg, and fome- times another, introduces a pleafing contraft among them all. The accidental motion alfo of the tail gives it peculiar beauty ; both when the horfe moves it himfelf j and when it waves in the wind. The beauty of it indeed to an unprejudiced eye is confpicuous at once; • See lord Monboddo on that fubjeft. and ( 263 ) and in all parade, and ftate-horfes it is acknow- ledged: tho even here there is an attempt made to improve nature by art : the hair muft be adorned w^ith ribbons ; and the bottom of the tail clipped fquare, which adds heavinefs, and is certainly fo far a deformity. The captain of an Englifli man of v^^ar gave me an account fometime ago, of his landing in one of the piratical ftates of Barbary, while his fhip anchored in the bay. He was received by the Dey (I think, of Tripoli) with great civi- lity; and among other things, faw his flables. They were lined with a very long, double row of the moft beautiful Barb, and Arabian horfes. He was ftruck with their beauty, to which their grand flowing tails, combed, and oiled in the nicefl manner, were no little addition. As he continued his walk through the flud, he came to a couple of horfes with 7iag-tails, On inquiring into their hiftory, he found they were Englifh horfes, which had been prefented to the Dey. The horfes themfelves were fit to appear any where -, but the contrail of their tails, he thought, in fuch company, made fo very flrange, and difgraceful an appearance, that he was afhamed of his countrymen. The cafe was, his eye having been thus accuftomed S 4 to ( 264 ) to the beautiful forms of nature, had gotten rid of it's prejudices -, and being a rational man, faw the matter in it's proper light. I fliall conclude my remarks on this cruel mutilation, with an epigram by Voltaire. That celebrated wit was in England about the time, when the babarous cuftom of docking horfes was in high fafhion. He was fo fliocked at it, that he wrote the following verfes, which, it is faid, he gave to lord Lyttelton. Vous, fiers Anglois, et barbares que vous etes, Coupent les tates a vos rois, et les queues a vos betes. Mais les Francois plus polis, et aimant les loix, Laiffent les queues a leurs betes, et les tates a leurs rols. There is more indignation, than wit, I think, in thefe verfes. Voltaire feems to con- fider docking a horfe, and killing a king, as equal crimes ; which however is carrying the matter fomewhat farther, than the pidurefque eye wifhes to carry it. The fame abfurd notions, which have led men to cut off the tails of horfes, have led them alfo to cut off their ears, I fpeak not of { 26j ) of low grooms, and jockies ; we have lately feen the ftuds of men of the firfl: fa(hion, mifled probably by grooms, and jockies, pro- ducing only cropt-horfes. When a fine horfe has wide, lopping ears, as he fometimes has, without fpring, or motion in them ; a man may be tempted to remove the deformity. But to cut a pair of fine ears out of the head of a horfe, is, if pofr- fible, a ft ill greater abfurdity, than to cut off his tail. Nothing can be alledged in it's defence. The ear neither retards motion; nor flings dirt. Much of the fame ground may be gone over on this fubjedl, which we went over on the laft. With regard to the utility of the ear, it is not improbable^ that cropping it may injure the horfe's hearing : there is certainly leis concave furface to receive the vibrations of the air. 1 have heard it alfo aflerted with great confidence, that this mutilation injures his health : for when a horfe has loft that pent-houfe, which nature has given him over his ear, it is reaibnable to believe the wind, and rain may get in, and give him cold. But if thefe injuries are not eafily proved, the injury he receives in point of beauty may ftrenuoufly ( 266 ) ftrenuoufly be infifted on. Few of the minu- ter parts of animal nature are more beautiful, than the ear of a horfe, when it is neatly formed, and well fet on. The contraft of the lines is pleafing; the concavity, and the convexity, being generally feen together in the natural turn of the ear. Nor is the proportion of the ear lefs pleafing. It is contraded at the infertion, fwells in the middle, and tapers to a point. The ear of no animal is fo beautifully proportioned. That of fome beafts, efpecially of the favage kinds, as the lion, and pard, is naturally rounded, and has little form. The ears of other animals, as the fox, and cat, are pointed, fhort, and thick. Thofe of the cow are round, and heavy. The hare's, and afs's ears are long, and nearly of the fame thicknefs. The dog, and fwine have flapping ears. The fheep, alone has ears, that can compare with the horfe. The ear of the horfe receives great beauty alfo from it's colour, as well as form. The ears of bay, and grey horfes are generally tipped with black, which melts into the colour of the head. But the ear of the horfe receives it's greateft beauty from motion. The ear of no animal has that vibrating I I "^^^S \ '■-.. ^ ( 267 ) vibrating power. The ears of a fpirited horfe are continually in motion -, quivering, and darting their (harp points towards every objedt, that prefents : and the adtion is ftill more beautiful, when the ears are fo well fet on, that the points are drawn nearly together. Virgil, who was among the mofl accurate obfervers of nature, takes notice of this qui- vering motion in the ears of a horfe. - — r-Si qua fonum procul arma dedere. Stare loco nefclt ; micat auribus ■ The fame word, which he ufes here to exprefs the motion of a horfe's ears, he ufes elfewhere to exprefs the gleaming of arms ; the glittering of a gem ; and the vibrating motion of a ferpent's tongue. But it is not only the quivering motion of the horfe's ears, that we admire ; we admire them alfo as the inter- preters of his paffions ; particularly of fear, which fome denominate courage : and of anger, or malice. The former he expreffes by darting themforii:ard'y the latter, by laying them hack. This digreffion hath carried me much farther, than I intended ; but the mutilation of the tail, and ears of this noble animal is fo oiFenlive to reafon, and common fenfe, that I have ( 268 ) I have been imperceptibly led on by my In- dignation. Tho nothing I can fay on the fubjedt, I am well perfuaded, can weigh againfl the authority of grooms, and jockies, fo as to make a general reform ; yet if, here and there, a fmall party could be raifed in oppofition to this ftrange cuftom, it might m time perhaps obtain fafhion on it's fide. We commonly fuppofe, that when mankind m general agree in a point, there is truth. I believe no nation upon earth, except the Englifh, have the cuftom among them, of docking, nicking, and cropping their horfes. The wifdom too of all antiquity decides fully againfl the practice. Inftances perhaps might be found in the bas-reliefs of the Anto- nine column, and other remains of Roman antiquity, both of the cropt ear, and of the hogged-mane, (which I take for granted were never pradifed, except in cafes of defed:,) but I am perfuaded, no one inflance can be found, in all the remains of Grecian, or Roman anti- quity, of a Jkort dock, or a nag- tail. Befides the horfe, the foreft is much fre- quented by another animal of his genus, inferior ■ .C ' m 'i-i ( 269 ) inferior indeed in dignity ; but fuperior in picturefque beauty -, I mean tbe afs. Among all the tribes of animals, fcarce one is more ornamental in landfcape. In what this pic- turefque beauty confifts, whether in his pe- culiar charader — in his ftrong lines — in his colourins: — in the roughnefs of his coat — or in the mixture of all — would be difficult per- haps to afcertain. The obfervation however is undoudtedly true; and every pidurefque eye will acknowledge it. Berghem bears full teftimony to it's truth. In his pictures the afs makes often the mofl: dillinguilhed figure : and a late excellent landfcape- painter*, I have heard, generally kept this animal by him, that he might have it always at hand to introduce in various attitudes, into his pic- tures. I have heard alio, that a plaiiler-caft of an afs, modelled by him, is fold in the fliops in London : but I never faw it. One reafon indeed for replenifliing the forefl fo much with affes, is the propagation of • Mr. Galnfborough. mules J ( 270 ) mules ; of which great numbers are bred in many parts of it : at leaft the breed was much incouraged before the troubles of America, whither feveral were every year exported. The mule is by no means fo pidurefque an animal as the afs ; and is rarely introduced in landfcape ; chiefly, I fuppofe, becaufe he has not fo determined a charadler. He is neither a horfe, nor an afs, and yet has a refemblance to both. To make an objedl truly pidturefque, it (hould be marked ftrongly with fome peculiar character. — — Befides, the mule varies in form, as much from himfelf, as he does either from the horfe, or the afs. He follows his fire. A mule bred from an Arabian^ differs as much from the offspring of a .forefter, as the two fires themfelves. This alfo injures his pidiurefque charader. The mule, from which the annexed drawing was taken, was a mule of blood. The afs alfo varies from itfelf; but not fo much as the mule. It is here reprefented under one of it's mofl elegant forms, that it may the more juftly be compared with a mule of the fame defcription. With I *'=?1i»*^ -«:ftt><:^5:v>» ■^'. <:*?*-v- ■^*«-^>; ■^ .>v ^.^^' ^s^ ( 271 ) With horned cattle of courfe, the forefl:, like all other large waftes, abounds ; and this is a fource of great picSurefque beauty. • The mclofure prefents only a fmall number at once, the property of fome fingle perfon : but in the foreji, the cattle of all the neigh- bouring hamlets, and cottages, pafture to- gether. We fee them often in large herds ; and in fummer, the feafon of landfcape, they are drawn in numbers, to favorite fpots, par- ticularly about pools, and rivulets ; where th6 various combinations, and attitudes they form are beautiful, and pidlurefque, in the higheft degree. Befides, they appear in a for eft to much more advantage, than they can poffibly do within the formality of hedges. But of all animals, with which the foreft abounds, the flag is in a peculiar manner adapted to it's fcenes. The wildnefs of his nature harmonizes with them j and the beauty nature ( ^72 ) of his form adorns them. We admire his ere6t froat; his fpreading horns, on which he fometimes wears above twenty antlers ; his limbs finifhed with fo much elegance -, and his ftately, meafured pace. But here perhaps the advocate for docking horfes will glory in the fhort tail of the ftag* He has no reafon. There is no doubt, nature has provided for the exigences of the flag in his fpeed, as well as for thofe of the horfe. It is true, the (hortnefs of the tail in fo beau- tiful an animal, rather feems a defe(fl. But as, in the language of religion, the well- ordered mind acknowledges every thing right in the works of God — fo, in the language of painting, the pidurefque eye acknowledges every thing beautiful in the works of nature. Some objedls indeed may pleafe lefs than others ; and be lefs accommodated to the rules of painting. But all objeds are beft as nature made them. Art cannot mend them» Where art interferes, beauty vanifhes. We drefs the poliflied lawn : but we only remove what may there be a deformity, tho elfevvhere a beauty. When we endeavour to improve the objeB — when we clip the holly, and trim the -ts- c'^*>r; r^ "^ u r^'»H.' ^xs;^g5»>gi»^; ^^l:f?5^ .p^^ ■A^- "^>/, ^4^ "^; ( '^IZ ) the box, we introduce deformity. We fome- times indeed artfully remove a branch : but it is to open the landfcape -, not to improve the tree. The ftag, during his firft year is called a calf', and does not aflume the name of a flag till his fifth ; being known in the intermediate years, by certain tecknical names, which none but forefters can remember. In his fixth year he takes the refpectable title of a hart. Some authors have given it to his fifth : but I follow the authority of Manwood*. Befides this title, he may ftill attain two higher degrees of honour; thofe of a hart-royal, and of a hart-royal proclaimed. If he be hunted by the king, and elcape; or have his life given him for the fport he has afforded, he becomes from thence forward, a hart-royal. If he be hunted out of the foreft, and there efcape; the king hath fometimes honoured him with a royal pro- clamation ; the purport of which is, to for- bid any one to molefl him, that he may have free liberty of returning to his foreft. * See Manwood, page 99. VOL. 11. T From ( 274 ) From that time he becomes a hart-royal prO" claimed. Man wood mentions a fa6t of this kind, which he found on record, in the caftle of Nottingham. It is dated in the time of Richard the iirft, who having roufed a hart in Sherwood-foreil, purfued him as far as Barnfdale in Yorkfliire ; where the hart foiled, and efcaped his hounds. The king in grati- tude for the diverfion he had received, or- dered him immediately to be proclaimed at Tickill, and at all the neighbouring towns. An affair of this kind, it is not unlikely, wag the original of iiohite-hart-Jilver , as it is called, in the foreft oi Blackmore in Dorfetfhire. Some gentlemen, in the time of Henry III, having deftroyed a white hart, which had given the king much diverfion (and which, it is probable, had been proclaipied) the king laid a heavy fine on their lands ; an acknow- ledgment of which was paid into the exchequer fo late as in the reign of Elizabeth*. Hutch- ings, in his hiftory of Dorfetfhire, fays it i« paid to this dayf*. • See Camdeo's Brit. p. 59. f VoJ. II. p. 492- Inftances i mi>L t; .if ( '^IS ) Inflances of favourite flags, and of the v/armth, with which mankind have efpoufed their faufe, when injured, occur fo frequently, that Virgil thought a circumftance of this kind a proper incident for the whole plot of his -^neid to turn on : ■■ ' ■ quae prima malorum Caufa fuit, belloquc animos accendit agreftes, Cervus, erat forma prasllanti*- In general, the flag is a harmlefs, inoffenfive animal. At one feafon only, when he is en- gaged in his feraglio, he is fierce. You hear him roaring, and bellowing, at that time, about the forefl ; meditating revenge on his rival, whom he meets, head to head, and foot to foot. While he is able with his antlers to parry the attack, he flands his ground : and if he happen to be of equal prowefs with his rival, the conflict is obftinate. But a weak adverfary foon feels the flrength of his opponent. He cannot refift his pufh. His flanks give way ; and he is prefently driven off the field. • ^n. Vri. 481. T 2 .At ( ^l(^ ) At thefe feafons of riot the ftag is faid to be dangerous. If therefore in pafling through the foreft, you fee him at a diftance in your path, you had better av^oid him by turning a Httle to the right, or left. If you do not approach, he will not purfue. I have heard old forefters however fay, they did not re- member an inftance of his ever doing vo- luntary mifchief at any time; and alTert that he will always avoid the pafTenger, if he can. But it is on all hands agreed, that he is highly dangerous, when hard prefled by the hounds, and driven to extremity. When the chafe is well nigh over — when that elaftic vigour, with which at firfl he bounded along the plain, is changed into a heavy gallop — when his mouth becomes black and dry — his tongue hanging from it — and his eye marked with horror and difmay, (cruel, furely, to turn fuch agony intofport!) his reverence for man is gone : he is driven to defpair ; and all his powers are colleded into terror and undiflinguifliing fury. Some years ago, a ftag in New-foreft, prelied by the hunters, and jufl entering a thicket, was oppofed by a peafant ; who foolishly, ( '^n ) foolifhly, with his arms extended, attempted to turn him. The flag held his courfe, and darting one of his antlers into the man, carried him off feme paces, flicking upon his horn. The man was immediately conveyed to Lymington, where he lay dangeroufly ill for fome time; but at length recovered. I have heard alfo, that when the duke of Bedford was lord- warden of the forefl, his huntfman had a horfe killed under him by a flag, which he croffed in the fame imprudent manner. We have a beautiful defcription in Shake- fpear, which I cannot forbear introducing, both for the fake of the picture ; and for the knowledge it conveys. The forrows of the dying flag — his fighs ; his tears ; and the unfriendly return his diflreffcs find from all his former companions, are circumflances in his hiftory well-known to the naturalifl, the forefler, and the huntfman. The melancholy Jaques is introduced by the poet repoling on the ground. - - ' ■ « As he lay Beneath an oak, whofe antique root projects Above the brook, that brawls along the wood; To the fame place a poor fequeftered fiag. That from the hunter's aim had ta'en a hart. Did come to languifh . ■ T3 The ( 278 ) The wretched animax heaved forth fuch groans. That their difcharge did ftretch his leathern coat Almofl to burfling ; and the big round drops Courfed one another down his patienc face. ' Anon a carelcfs herd. Full of rich pafture, bounding comes along, And never Hays to greet him. Aye, quoth Jaques, Sweep on, ye fat and greafy citizens ; 'Tis juft the fafhion : wherefore look ye not Upon that poor, and broken bankrupt there? The hind alfo, in defence of her calf, is equally formidable, as far as her flrength allows ; and her powers of exerting it. She has been known to ftrike a dog fo violently with the fpring of her fore-feet, as to ft rip his ikin from his flelli, and lay his fide bare. As it is now many years fince New-fore/l has been a fcene of royal-diverfion, the breed of flags is generally diminiflied. It is a rare thing now to meet them in the fouthern parts of it ; tho within the memory of man, they were fo numerous, that I have heard an old forefler, pointing to the fide of a hill, on Beaulieu heath, fay, he had feen them lying there in herds, like cows, and horfes. There are Aill however many in the northern parts of the forefi:, particularly about Boldre-wood, and Burley-lodges ; but, in general, the fal- low deer are more encouraged. The ^■-^r ^ V.'t- if w-v^ x t'*i. ^■;*i ir^^ tr5? ^>-* ( 279 ) The flag might eafily be trained, like the rein-deer of Lapland, to draw a carriage, if we had not animals more proper for the purpofe. The prefent earl of Orford, I have been informed, bred two, by way of experi- ment, which by domeftication became mana- geable, were bitted, and drew a light curricle with great gentlenefs, and expedition. The flag is a native of our ifland ; as indeed' he is found in mofl parts of the world ; differing only in a few accidental varieties. The fallow-deer is much more limited by nature in the place of his abode ; and in this ifland particularly has been received only by importation. He is fuppofed to have but two varieties, the fpotted, and the dark- brown. The former is of Indian extradion* : the latter was brought from Denmark by James I. They are now indeed much inter- mixed; but in general the fpotted race are more the inhabitants of the park -, the brown, which is the hardier fpecies, occupy the foreft. See Pennant's Zool. T 4 The ( 28o ) The latter is the more picflurefque animal. The uniform fpot of the variegated deer is not fo pleafing, as one limple brown-tint, melting away by degrees into a fofter hue, which pro- duces a fort of natural light and fhade ; as indeed all colours do, which blend gently into each other. Foreft-deer, tho pafturing at large, feldom flray far from the walk, where they are bred : and the keeper, who is ftudious, that his deer may not travel into the limits of their neigh- bours, incourages their fondnefs for home, by feeding them, in winter, with holly, and other plants, which they love; and browzing them in fummer with the fpray of aOi. When he diftributes his dole, he commonly makes a hollowing noife to call his difperfed family together. In calm fummer-evenings, if you frequent any part of the foreft near a lodge, you will hear this hollowing noife refounding through the woods ; and if you are not apprifed of it, you will be apt to wonder, each evening, at it's periodical exadlnefs. . Deer feed generally in the night, or at early dawn, and retire in the day to the {lielter of the woods. Their morning retreat is thus pidurefquely defcribed. The ( 28i ) ■ The day pours in a-pacc. And opens all the lawny profpei^ wide ; The hazy woods, the mountain's mifly top. Swell on the fight : while o'er the foreft-glade. The wild deer trip ; and often turning, gaze At early paflengers ' Mr. Pennant tell us*, that In Germany the peafants frequently v/atch their corn, the whole night, to preferve it from the depre- dations of deer. He needed not, on this head, to have carried fo far from home : the bor- derers of New-foreft are equally fubje(5t to the depredations of thefe animals ; and are often obliged, when the neighbouring deer have gotten a haunt of their corn-lands, to burn fires all night to deter them. I heard a farmer fay, that it cofl: him five pounds, one fummer, to guard eight acres of wheat. It is a remark among forefters, that all the deer-kind are particularly offended by difagreeable fmells. The farmer commonly therefore fmears the ropes with tar, which he fets up as fences; and throws fetid fubftances into his nightly fires, to diffeminate the odour in the fmoak. * See Brit. Zool. We 4> ( 282 ) We need not wonder if fuch depredations provoke acSts of violence. Tho prote(5ted by iaw, thefe atrocious marauders very often, and defer vedly, fuffer death for their oiFences. A farmer however, not long ago, paid dear for taking the adminiftration of juftice, into his own hands, on an occalion of this kind. He had frequently lamented the depredations on his corn ; and being at all events determined to retaliate, he narrowly obferved his fields; and having found the track, along which the nightly plunderer advanced, he took his ftation near it, as evening drew on, with a rifled barrel well loaden. After much liftening, and many little alarms, he at laft heard the bufliies crackling, and giving way in earnefl. He now made himfelf fure of his prey ; and lying clofe, he levelled his piece, fo as juft to take the flag, as he emerged from the thicket. The night was dark -, but however allowed him fufficient light to take aim at fo large a body. He fired with efFed: ; and had the pleafure to fee his enemy fall. But, on run- ning to him, he was ftruck with finding he had killed one of the befl horfes of his own team. The ( 283 ) The fheep does not frequent the forefl in any abundance. Here and there you find a little flock on a dry gravelly hill : but, in general, the foreft abounds with fwamps, and inarfhy bottoms, highly pernicious to the flieep — tliC only animal perhaps, except one, which purfccs with the greateft avidity, what is mod dcftructive to it. It is the lefs how- ever to be lamented, that the lawns of the foreft are not decorated with thefe animals, as they are certainly leis adapted to a foreft- fcene, than deer; tho in themfelves perhaps, more pidurefque. The foreft is wild, and they are domeftic. With hares and rabbits the foreft abounds. The latter are the under-keeper's perquifite ; and oi courfe well looked after. There are many dry, fandy knolls, where colonies of thefe inmates are fettled ; which are not among the leaft amufmg of the minute inhabitants of the foreft. In ( 2?4 ) In the fame clafs we rank the fquirrel. He is not of confequence to be numbered among the pidurefque ornaments of a fcene : but his form, and manners 3 his activity, and feats of dexterity, are very amufmg. On extraordinary occafions, when he is agitated by love, or anger, his mufcles acquire tenfold elafticity. He defcends a tree in a rapid fpiral, as quick as thought — darts up another in an oppofite diredion — flings himfelf from tree to tree with amazing exadinefs — and purfues his mate, or his rival, among the mazy branches of an oak, with a velocity that eludes the fight. Pheafants alfo greatly abound in many parts of the foreft. In the manors of Beaulieu, Fawley, and other places, where they are proteded, they multiply beyond belief. They are feen often in flocks feeding like poultry, in the fields ; and adorning the woods, and copfcs, with their elegant fhape, and glofly plumage. The ( 285 ) The partridge is not fo fond of the wild fcenes of the foreil, as the pheafant. She is more the bird of cultivation. Where the plough flouriflies, (he thrives ; and fcldom chufes to inhabit a country in a ftate of nature. The pheafant has no objection to a field of corn ; but he can procure his living without it. He can make a hearty meal of the wild berries of the woods : or content himfelf with a belly-full of acorns. To him therefore corn is a luxury 5 to the partridge it is a neceflary. She is generally found gleaning the ftubble, or balTving under a hedge; and gets into many a difficulty, which (he might have avoided by feeding more at large. Sometimes indeed llie is found in the foreft ; but it is chiefly when {he is hunted by men and dogs from her fa- vourite haunts The black-cock, on the other hand, is more a forefter, than even the pheafant. He has no connexion with man. He fcorns the incloiure; and all the dainties of the ilubble. The wild foreft is his only delight; aiid . ( 286 ) and there, his plcafures lie more in it's open, than in it's woody fcenes. This bird was formerly found in great abundance in New- forejflj but he is now much fcarcerj tho he has ^ the honour, which no other bird can boaft, of being proteded as royal game. To this day when the chief-ju ft ice-in -eyre, grants his warrants to kill game in the foreft, he always excepts the black-cock, together with red, and fallow-deer. The plaintive ring-dove alfo is a great ad- mirer of the w^oody fcenes of the foreft. Many fuppofe her a folitary bird ; at leaft, that fhe flies only with her mate; confound- ing her habits perhaps with thofe of the turtle-dove ; which, I believe, is folitary : but the ring-dove is certainly gregarious : I have often feen in the foreft large flocks of this fpecies together, in the winter months; fo well the poet knew their nature, by con- trafting them with the wood-cock ; While doves in flocks the leaflefs trees o'er-fliade; The lonely wood-cock haunts the watry glade. The ( 287 ) The wood-cock indeed is ibmetimes ^etn in the foreft : but the rough lawns and heaths, he finds there, do not intirely fuit his appetite. He is curious in the choice of his haunts. He muft have fome fweet woody glen, watered by little ouzing mofly rills, into which he may eafily thrufh his beak; and thefe he cannot every where meet ' with in. the foreft. The fnipe, lefs delicate in her haunts, is the frequent inhabitant of the wildefl fcenes. Any fwamp, or marlhy fpot will pleafe her; and of thefe fhe finds abundance in various parts of the foreft. Plover, of different kinds, are common alfo in it's heathy parts. I have fome- times {cen large flocks of the grey fpecies ; and have flood admiring them, as they in- circled the air. In their regular mode of flight, they in fome degree refemble water- fowl : but they are not fb determined in their courfe i ( 2S8 ) courfe; wheeling about, and forming various evolutions, which are very amufing. Some- times they appear all fcattered, and fcem in confufion ; till clofmg together, as if by the word of command, they get again into form. With regard to all the fongfters of the grove, the woody fcenes of the foreft are vocal with them. The thrufli, the black-bird, the linnet, and the nightingale, abound on every fpray. The nightingale above all, delights in the wild fcenes of the foreft. The black-bird, and the thrufh are often feen tripping over the emhellijhed lawn, or flirting from the neat trimmed holly-hedge. But the nightingale rarely frequents thefe cultured fpots. To her they afford little pleafure. Her commoneft haunts are thofe of nature — the brake, the copfe, the rough hedge, or the foreft, where fhe fmgs her melodious ftrains to woods, and folitude ; and often -waftes her fweetnefs on the defert air: only that her voice, fo varied, clear, and full, is heard far and wide, when the evening is iliU; ( 289 ) nill ; almofl: at hand, tho in the diftant wood . Among the birds of harmony, there are two, which I fhall find it difficult perhaps to ef- tabHfh in that clafs — the jay, and the wood- pecker. Their fcreams, however difcordant in themfelves, or when out of place, accord admirably with the forefl -, and produce that kind of local harmony, which one of our old Doets * afcribes to the found of a drum : it may be diflbnant in one place, tho mufical in another. What found is that, whofe concord makes a jar ? 'Tis noife in peace ; tho harmony in 'luar. The drum, whofe doubtful muftc doth delight The 'willing ear, and the unwilling fright. ** We take mufic however here (according to a very good definition of it) in the large, and proper fenfe of the word — as the art of variouily affedting the mind by the power of founds. ""f* * Davenant. f Gregory's comparative view. TOL, II. U But ( 290 ) But befides the harmony arifing from the agreement of thefe wild notes with the fcenes of the foreftj there is another fource of it in the fympathetic feelings of the mind. Thefe wild notes excite ideas of thofe pleafmg fo reft- fcenes, where we have commonly heard them. But I fhallgive my meaning in better words, than my own. There Is in fouls a fympathy with founds ; And as the mind is pitched, the ear is pleafed With melting airs, or martial ; brifk, or grave. Some chord in unifon with what we hear. Is touched within us, and the heart replies. How foft the muiic of ihofe village -bells. Falling at intervals upon the ear In cadence fweet ? now dying all away ; Now pealing loud again, and louder ftill. Clear, and fonorous, as the gale comes on. With eafy force it opens all the cells. Where memory flept ; wherever I have heard A kindred melody, the fcene recurs ; And with it all it's pleafures -■ ■*. But however difcordant the notes of thefe birds may be to the faftidious ear ; their rich, yet harmonious plumage, muft at leaft recom- mend them as highly ornamental to every fcene. Cooper. which ( 291 ) which they frequent. The wood -pecker par- ticularly is arrayed in the richefl plumage of any bird we have, except the king-fifher : yet all his fplendid tints are perfecflly har- monious. The jay alfo is beautifully tinted on his back, and breaft, with a light purplidi hue, intermixed with grey; and his wing is perhaps the moil admirable piece of work- man fliip in the whole feathered creation* On the fame ground with the jay> and the wood-pecker, I fhould not fcruple alfo to rank the kite — if his manners did not difturb the harmony of the woods, as much as his voice fupports it. Independent of his man- ners, he is one of the moft harmonious ap- pendages of the foreft; where Mr. Pennant makes him indigenous*. He is too fmall for pidurefque ufe ; but highly ornamental to the natural fcene. His motions are eafy, and beautiful in a great degree. He does not flap his pinions, like the rook, or the mag- pie ; and labour through the air : he fiils * Brit. Zool. U 2 along, ( 292 ) along, with fteady wing, as if he were lord of the element, on which he rode. But what harmonize chiefly with the forefl are his wild fcreams, which ftrike notes in pe- culiar unifon with thofe fcenes, over which he fails. ■ ■ Kites, that fwim fublime In Hill repeated circles fcreaming loud. Have charms for me.- • Sounds inharmonious in themfelves, and harfli. Yet heard in fcenes, where peace for ever reigns, Pleafe highly for their fake It is remarkable, that we feldom fee more than two of this fpecies together, the male and the female. They feem to divide the foreft into provinces. Each bird hath his own 3 and, with more than princely caution, avoids his neighbour's. It is his great em- ployment to circle through the air, as the poet defcribes him above, in various evo- lutions over his own woody dominions; where with keen eye, and keener talons, he flill preferves the fpirit of the old forefl- law. Very ( 293 ) Very often the eagle himfelf is found ia the foreft. Mountainous, and rocky coun- tries are his delight. On the ledge of fome fteep, prominent rock he builds his eyry, and rears his royal progeny. But when food be- comes fcarce in thofe defolate regions, as it fometimes does, he finds it convenient to make an excurfion into the foreft. Here he hunts the leveret, and the fawn ; and fcreens his atrocious deeds in the clofefl woods. Wher- ever he isfeen, the watchful forefter endeavours to keep him in fight, till he bring him to the ground. And yet I have heard of a pair of eagles, which took pofi'efiion of a part of the forefi:, called King's-wood, where they eluded all the arts of the keeper, and continued their annual depredations, for feveral years. Some time ago, an eagle was killed, after three difcharges, near Afhy-lodge; and was ex- tended, like the imperial arms, in the court- room of the king's-houfe at Lyndhurft. Of all the feathered inhabitants of the forefi: I fhould have thought it's fcenes, in all refpedts, the befl: adapted to the rook. Here he might build his habitation; and rear his U 3 young ( 294 ) young, far from the prying eyes of men. Here alfo he mii^ht indulge his fecial temper without limits ; and inlarge his aerial town from wood to wood. But he has no fuch ideas. I cannot learn that he ever thought of forming a fettlement in the foreft ; which is the more extraordinary, as he is in fadt a lover of it's fcenes ; and rejoices in them at all times, but in the breeding-feafon, when one fhould ima- gine, he flood mod in need of their fhelter. At that time he feems feduloufly to court the faithlefs habitations of men ; through what propenlity, or inftindt of nature, the naturalifl: is wholly at a lofs to determine. After his family is reared, and he has carried off in fafety fuch of his progeny, as have efcaped the arts of men, and boys, he retires every evening, at a late hour, during the autumn, and winter months, to the clofeft covers of the forefl, having fpent the day in the open fields, and inclofures, in quefl of food. His late retreat to the foreft, is characleriftic of the near approach of night. Night thickens, and the crow Makes wing to th' rooky wood. ■ And ag-ain. Retiring from the downs, where all day long They pick their fcanty fare, a blackening train Of ( 295 ) Of loitering rooks, thick urge their weary flight. And feek the Ihelter of the grove. But in his economy there is fomething fin- gular. The the foreft is his winter-habitation (if I may call that his habitation, which, hke other vagrants, he ufes only as a place to ileep in) he generally every day vilits his nurfery; keeping up the idea of a family, which he begins to make provision for in earneft very early in the fpring. Among all the founds of animal nature, few are more pleafmg than the cawing of rooks. The rook has but two, or three notes; and when he attempts a folo, we cannot praife his fong. But when he performs in concert, which is his chief delight, thefe two or three notes, tho rough in themfelves, being mixed, and intermixed with the notes of a multitude, have all their fharp edges worn off, and become very harmonious ; efpecially when foftened in the air, where the band chiefly exhibits. You have this mufic in perfection, when the whole colony is roufed by the difcharge of a gun. The cawing of rooks however is a found not fo congenial to the foreil, as it is to the grove. U 4 Among ( 296 ) Among the winged inhabitants of the foreft we fhould not forget the honey-bee, which every where covers the farface of it. Thefe "wide demeifns are in many parts fpread with lieath, which is one of the favorite vege- tables of this induftrious infed. Where this abounds, the cottager commonly carries out his hives in winter, hiding them, as he can, from obfervation ; and fencing them from the annoyance of cattle. There he leaves them, till fwarming-time, when they neceffarily become the objeds of his care ; and if he is fortunate, his profits are confiderable. 1 knew a cottager who made above fifteen guineas, in one year, of his foreft-honey ; tho he fold it only at three pence a pound. Sometimes the hive is difcovered, and ftolen ; tho in general it is a garrifon, which can defend itfelf pretty well : however as the prudent peafant never places all his wealth in one place, he generally at worfl, fecures enough to repay his trouble. — — — Hampfliire-honey is in good efteem ; but it is rather the honey produced in the northern parts of the county, than what is commonly called f or ejl -honey , Another ( 297 ) Another fpecies of fly fhould not be pafled over, which is one of the greateft nuifances of the foreft. In form it is not unlike the com- mon black fly, and about it's fize ; but it's colour is difl^erent. It is a bright-coated, brown infed: -, well-cafed -, ftrong -, and very retentive of life*. It has a flde-long, crawling motion, like a crab. The horfe is it's favo- rite quarry, tho it attacks the cow, and other animals. You may fometimes fee hundreds of thefe infedls neflling under the tail, and belly of fuch horfes, as are patient of them ; as the New-forefl: horfe commonly is by long fufferance. But to fuch horfes, as 'are unaccuftomed to thefe teafmg infeds, they are a grievous torment ; tho it is doubtful, whether they are blood-fuckers, or fubfifl only on fuch juices as exude through the fkin. In this latter cafe they oifend the horfe only by tickling him ; for which opera- tion their legs are well adapted, appearing, in a microfcope, armed with fharp talons, like pot-hooks. Vivit, curfxtat, immo coit, dempto licet capite. Linneus de hippobofca. Such ( 298 ) Such are the inmates of the internal parts of the foreft. Along it's fhores, bordering on the ifle of Wight, it is furnifhed with a new fet of inhabitants thofe various tribes of fea-fowl, which frequent the brackifh waters of an eftuary. Among the moft common, as well as the rnofl: beautiful, is the gull. Water- fowl, in a particular manner, difcover in their flight fome determined aim. They eagerly coafl: the river, or return to the fea; bent on fome purpofe, of which they never lofe light. But the evo- lutions of the gull appear capricious, and un- direded, both when fhe flies alone, and, as fhe often does, in large companies. The more however her character fuifers as a loiterer, the more it is raifed in pidurefque value, by her continuing longer before the eye ; and difplaying, in her elegant fweeps along the air, her fliarp-pointed wings, and bright filvery hue. She is beautiful alfo, not only on the -wing, but when fhe floats, in numerous afl"em- blies, on the water -, or when fhe refls on the fhore, dotting either one, or the other with white fpots; which, minute as they are, are very ( 299 ) very piiflurefque ^ and may properly be intro- duced in landfcape ; giving life and fpirit to a view. Sea-painters particularly make great life of this bird, and often with good effedt. The younger Vandervelt was fond of intro- ducing it : he knew the value of a fingle bright touch in heightening his florms. As the wheeling motion of the gull is beau- tiful, fo alfo is the figured flight of the goofe, the duck, and the widgeon ; all of which are highly ornamental to coaft-views, bays and eftuaries. We often fee innumerable bodies of thefe, and other fea-fowl, congregated in clofe array, and filling the air with their re- founding cries*'. They are not hyperbolically defcribed as ■ '■■ ■ living clouds. Infinite wings ; till all the plume-dark air. And rude refounding fhor^, are one wild cry. In a pidurefque light thefe living clouds are of little va uc 5 unlefs indeed fome wild, for- lorn, and rocky coaft is prefented, where thefe • See page 192. fea-fowls ( 300 ) fea-fowls commonly breed ; and where in great bodies they are charaBeriJiic, Amonf^ tht foUtary birds, which frequent the eftuaries of rivers, the hern, and the cormorant are of too much confequence to be omitted. The form, in which the hern contradts his long neck in flying — his out-flretched legs — the folemn flapping of his wings — his ealy deliberation in taking the ground — the blueifh tint of his plumes, foftening into white — and his patient, and attentive pofl:ure, as he fliands fifliing on the fhore — are all, circumfliances as far as they go, pidlurefque. His hoarfe note too, at pauflng intervals, as he paflTes through the air, tho harfh and difcordant when un- aided by it's proper accompaniments, like other notes of the fame kind, when the fcenes of nature aft in concert with it, hath it's full energy, and eifedl. 1 call the hern a folitary bird, becaufe his common habits, and manner of feeking his food, are folitary : we feldom fee more than two in company -, tho, like the rook, he breeds in large focieties. Nor 30I Nor is the cormorant without his beauty. His eager, fteady, determined flight his plunging into the waters his wild look> as if confcious of guilt — his buftle on being alarmed; fhaking the moifture from his fea- thers, and dafliing about, till he get fairly dif- engaged, are all amufing circumflances in his hiflory. But he is a mercilefs villain -, fup- pofed by naturalifts to be furniihed with a greater variety of predatory arts, than any bird that inhabits the waters. When the tide re- tires, he wings his ardent flight with ftrong pinions, and out-ftretched neck, along the fhores of the deferted river ; with all the chan- nels, and curients of which he is better ac- quainted, than the mariner with his chart. Here he commits infinite fpoil. Or, if he find his prey lefs plentiful in the fliallows, he is at no lofs in deeper water. He dives to the bot- tom, and vifits the eel in her retirement, of all others his favourite morfel*. In vain the fowler eyes him from the bank ; and takes his ftand behind the bufh. The cormorant. * See other parts of liis hiftory, p. 172. quicker- ( 302 ) quicker-fighted, knows his danger ; and parries it with a glance of his eye. If he chufe not to trufl his pinions, in a moment he is un- der water — rifes again in fome diftant part — inftantly finks a fecond time ; and eludes the poffibility of taking aim. Even if a raiidom- fhot fliould touch him, unlefs it carry a weight of metal, his fides are fo well cafed, and his mufcular frame fo robuft, that he efcapes mifchief. — —If the weather fuit, he fiflies alfo dexteroufly at fea. Or perhaps he only varies his food between fea-fifh, and river-fifh, as his palate prompts. When he has filled his maw, he retires to the ledge of fome pro- jecting rockj where he liftens to the furges below in dofing contemplation, till hunger again awaken his powers of rapine. SECT, ( 303 ) SECT. XII. Conclulion of the whole. THUS I have carried my reader through all the varieties I know, of wood- land fcenes. 1 confidered firft the fingle tree as the origin, and foundation of all. I con- fidered next the various combinations of trees, under the feveral beautiful forms of fcenery, which they compofe : and as the foreft is of all others, the grandeft, and moil: interefting combination of trees, I dwelt the longeft on this part of my fubjed;; feleding New-foreffc in Hamp(hire as an example to illuflrate the feveral obfervations I had made. Through this pidurefque country I have led my reader geographically; and have prefented him with a great variety of beautiful fcenes— woods- lawns — heaths — foreft-diftances — and fea- coaft views. ( 304 ) views. I have adorned thefe fcenes alfo with their proper appendages, wild horfes, deer, and other pidurefque inhabitants. 1 might greatly have multiplied both my general and particular remaks ; but I fear I ought rather to apologize for my redundances, than my omijpons. I now clofe my obfervations with a ligh over the tranfitory ftate of the feveral fcenes, I have defcribed. I mean not, with unphi- lofophic weaknefs, to bemoan the perifhable condition of fublunary things ; but to lament only, that, of all fublunary things, the wood-land-fcene, which is among the mofi beautiful, fhould be among the moji perifiable. Some ipecies of landfcape are of permanent nature ; fuch particularly as depend on rocks, mountains, lakes, and rivers. The ornamen- tal appendages indeed of thefe fcenes, the oaks, and elms, that adorn them, are of a more tranfient kind. But the grand con- Aituent parts of them may be fuppofed coeval with nature itfelf. Nothing lefs than fome general convullion can injure them. Such landfcape again as depends for beauty on old caftles, abbeys, and other ruins, ge- nerally efcapes for ages the depredations of time. ( 3^5 ) time. If the woody appendages of thcfe fcenes, like thofe of lakes, and mountains, are open to injury, yet a quick vegetation reftores them fpeedily to nature — unlefs indeed the perjever^ ing hand of improvemait intervene. But the Jandfcape, which depends chiefly on weed-land fcefiery, is always open to in- jury. Every gracelefs, hand can fell a tree. The value of timber is it's misfortune. It is rarely fuffered to ftand, when it is fit for ufe ; and in a cultivated country, woods are con- Udered only as large corn-fields ; cut, as foon as ripe; and when they are cut for the ufes, to which they are properly defigned, tho we may lament, we fhould not repine. But when they are cut, as they often are, yet imma- ture, to make up a matrimonial purfe, or to carry the profits of them to race-grounds, and gaming-houfes, we cannot help wiQiing the profligate pofl^eflbrs had been placed, like lunatics, and idiots, under the care of guardians, who might have prevented fuch ruinous, and unwarrantable wafte. The depredations, which we have feen made in every part of New-forefl:; and the vafl: quantities of timber, which are felled, every year, for the navy ; and regularly affigned for VOL. II. X various ( 3=6 ) various other . purpofes, cannot but make a confiderable change in it's fcenery. The de- fcription therefore, which I have given of it, is not the defcription of what it was in the lafl: century, nor of what it will be in the next. Many alterations in particular fcenes have taken place, even fince this work was begun. In a fore-ground, the cutting down of two or three flately trees makes an elTential al- teration ', and much change of this kind hath been made in many places. In thefe inftances therefore the remarks here offered muft be confidered as hijlory^ rather than as defcription. They attempt to chronicle fcenes, which once exifled, and are now gone. That grand vifla, which hath been defcribed between Brokenhuril, and Lyndhurft, hath, lince thefe remarks were made, undergone much change. Many of the nobler trees, which adorned it, have been felled : and many of the old decaying trees, and others which had been flunted under the fliade of thofe, that had been felled, are now grown ftill more decayed, and ragged. They are ill-clad and thin ; and their withered branches every where ftare out, unadorned, and naked through their meagre foliage. From thefe caufes, and the deformed gaps, which the felling of good trees hath oc- cafioned. ( 2^7 ) cafioned, this avenue hath loft much of it's beauty. The reader will ftill remember, that when in the early part of the work*, I confidered the maladies of trees as a fource of pidiurefque beauty, I meant it only with regard to individuals placed in particular circumftances. Here, where we are contemplating the beauties of what fhould be a rich foreft-fcene, they are out of place. It muft however be added, that altho thefe changes are continually hap- pening among the ancient oaks of the foreft ; yet as young trees are growing old, nature is alfo continually working up new fore-grounds to her landfcapes ; tho it is a much eafier bulinefs to deform y than to reflore. In the diftant fcenery of the foreft indeed, where effedt depends on vaft combinations of trees, and may be produced even from the inferior kinds, the inroads of the axe are lefs obferved. Tho the choiceft oaks therefore may be removed ; yet if a fufficiency of meaner trees is left, no confiderable change will happen, for many years, in the diftant landfcapes of the foreft. The lawns, and heaths, in which it's • See vol. I. p. 8. greateft ( 3o8 ) greateft beauty coniifts, will preferve their or- naments : and, unlefs where their dimenfions are fmall (in which cafe Oately trees are re- quired as fore-grounds,) they may long remain the objed:s of admiration. THE END. i TRANSLATION O F Quotations in the Second Volume. Pase G" VOL. II. 6. TN that wood, which is called New-forefl, A he ordered the churches, and villages to be deflroycd, the people to be driven out, and the whole to be inhabited by wild beafts. Hen. of Huntingdon. 7. That tradt of country, a fpace of more than thirty miles in extent, now called New-foreft, but formerly called Ytene, William, the baf- tard, ordered to be defpoiled of all its churches, villages, and inhabitants, and to be turned into a habitation for beafts. Brompton. 7. Through the fpace of thirty miles, the whole county, which was fruitful in a high degree, was laid wafte. The churches, gardens, and * houfes [ " ] houfes were all deflroyed ; and the whole reduced by the king's order into a chace for beads. Winchefter chronicle. 7. This prince (Rufus) made forefts in various parts : but his capital foreft occupied that tra6t of country, which lies between South- ampton, and Chriftchurch. Here, to make room for his beafts of chace, he deftroyed twenty-two churches, fome fay fifty-two, together with villages, chapels, and private houfes, and formed New-foreft, which he called his garden; filling it with game; which he fpared for feven years. Knighton. 44. No inquiry muft be made, how venifon is procured. As tending to dcftroy the harbour of beafts — to injure the forefl-rand to increafc the poor. 116. A hog from Epicurus's herd. 252. Sprung from mighty Jove. 264. Hail to that public vvifdom, which defends The docking kings, and fteeds at different ends. Alas ! in France the folly Jlill prevails Of leaving kings their heads, and fteeds their tails. 267. — — Or if the found Of war approach, he points his quivering ears. And paws the ground- 1 . , - , . 275. [ iii ] Page 275. — — A favorite flag Was of this dire diftrefs the leading caufe. It raifed fuipicions firft, then roufed the fons Of \'iolence to war. i ■ ■ . . INDEX. Page I. 32 I- 35 64 68 103 I. 117 I. 15+ I. 217 ASH, defcrlbed -. ' — — ' Vol. I. Animals, figures of, in ftone and wood ; re- marks upon them — -_ 1 — Alder defcribed — ' — __ __ . — . Acacia defcribed _ ^— _ ^— Allegory on the fall of the leaf — , .— — Addrefs of the oak to the faplin on his removal from the foreft — — _, — ^ Arbor-de-rays, or Banian-tree — — _ ►.^ Aquadu£^, how it may be introduced -— — Autumn, the moft replete with incidental beauty of any feafon — — — — I. 257 Angel-inn at Lymington; a good view from the ftable-yard there — — — » — II. 85 Atmofphere, it's various efFeds on landfcape de- fcribed — — — — —.II. 241 Afs i a foreft-animal — « — — — II. 268 B Balance of trees — 1 _, — , — ^ I. 5 Blafted tree, often beautiful — — — I. 14 b Brionies, Page Brionies, beautiful — — — — !• i? Beech defcribed — — ' — > ■ — 1-43 Birch defcribed — — — — — I. 66 Bloom of different trees — — — Britannia, dimenfions of her bowfprit — — Boabab, an uncommon tree found in Senegal — Brown, Mr. ; his refources in landfcape — Bramble, an unaccommodating plant — — Britain, defpoiled of wood — — — Beafton-caftle -^ — — — — Bull-running, a diverfion in Needwood-foreft Beanmanour-park in Charnwood-foreft — Bofworth-field, on the borders of Leicefter-foreft Berkly-caftle, on the confines of Micklewood-foreft Bradon-foreft, a fcene of great flaughter, when in- vaded by the Danes 905 — — Boldre, vicar of; his aflignment of foreft-timber Bedford, duke of; his fruitlefs attempt to remove a hamlet of trefpalTers in New-forefl — Bogs, frequent in New-foreft — — Brokenhurft, a pleafant village; view from the church-yard — — — — . Bute, lord ; views from his houfe — — Buckland-ring, a Roman camp — — Bottom, it's meaning in foreft-language -^ Burley-hill ; view from it — — »— Burley-lodge — — _. __ — Boldre-wood lodge — — — ■ — Beech, remarks on it's mode of growth — Blackamfley-hill ; view from it _- — Boldre-church ; view from it — - — . Buckler's-hard — _ — » -« Bcaulieu-abbey _..«_« *^ Beau< I. no I. 128 I. 152 I. 183 I. 220 I. 293 I. 313 I. 316 I. 316 I. 317 I. 320 I. 321 II. 20 II. 45 II. 56 II. 62 II. 83 II. 98 II. 106 II. 108 11. 109 II. no II. in 11. 124 II. , 129 II. 138 IL • 139 i ( ili ) Page Beaulieu-river ; entrance of it defcribed — ■ II. 159 " * character of it — — « — ■ II. 165 Birds, which frequent BeauUeu-river — - II. 17 1 Beaulieu-bridge ; view from it to the right -— 11. 177 Butt's-afh-fann _„ « ^ — II. 206 Bcaulicu-heath, weftern fide of it — • — II. 212 Bramble-hill, a view from it — — — II. 231 Bere-foreft ; care taken there in breeding horfes II. 252 Black-cock j a foreft-bird — — ' — H- 285 Birds, fmging ; frequent in the forcft — > II. 288 c Curtailed trunk — — — . — < I. 8 Chequered {hade — — — — I. 21 Chefnut defcribed — — — — I. 58 Cedar of Lebanon defcribed — — — I. 73 Clufter-pine defcribed — — — — I. 82 Colour in general, remarks on it — — - I. 86 ■ farther remarks on the fame fub- Crown, a French-fhip, dimenfions of her keel I. 127 Chefnut, a celebrated one on Mount Etna — !• 130 Cleves, account of a remarkable lime-tree there I. 133 Chaucer's oaks, account of them — * — !• ^34 Cadenham-oak — — — — — I. 165 Clump; properties required in a fmall one — I. 172 ■ properties required in a large one ' — I. 177 Copfe defcribed — — — — — I. 191 Claude, fubjects of his pictures — — I. 215 Cottage, how far the introduction of it may be al- lowed in landfcape • — — — I. 216 Caefar, his account of the early Britons in their forefts ~ — _ ^ — , I. 275 b 2 Cougar ( iv ) Page Cougar — — — — I. 280 Caradacus taken by the Romans in Clune-forefl: I. 315 Corft-caftle in the forcft of Purbeclc — I. 327 Compton, Mr. ; his park . — — II. 82 Chrift.*church — — ' _ II. 82 Churches, foreft; their common fituation — ' II. 129 Choulfeyj a large abbey-barn there — II. 137 Culverly-heath ; view over it — — ■ II. 147 Creek, one near Leap — — — II. 196 Calftiot-caftle — — — II. 201 Cadland, Mr. Drumond's — — II. 202 CuiFnals, Mr. Rofe's — — — II. 219 Chafm, a gaping one in the vifta beyond Lyndhurft II. 221 Cleavland, Mr. ; his views over Lymington-river II. 238 Colts, in New-foreft i how caught — II. 251 Cattle, horned; abound in the foreft — II. 271 Cawing of rooks, a pleafing found — II. 295 Cormorant defcribed — — ■ — - II, 301 I D Difcafes of trees often beautiful — — 1. Damory's oak, a celebrated tree near Blandford, in Dorfetfhire — — — Deception ; of little eflimation in painting »— < Dog, the firfl aflbciate of man in a ftate of nature Deftrudlion of forefts — — — Deer-ftealer, the hiftory of a noted one — Dialedt of New-foreft — — — Divifion, under which New-foreft is confidered in this work — — — Divifions of property Oifenfive to the pi£lurefque eye II. Dells, feveral in the road between Chriftchurch and Lymington — — — II. I. 142 I. 265 I. 273 I. 285 II. 43 II. 48 II. 51 II. 79 85 D'Oyly- Page II. 133 II. 148 II. 189 11. 199 II. 207 II. 211 II. 255 D'Oyly-park Denny-wood Dauphin, fuppofed to imbark near Exbury — Diftances, and foregrounds, fliould be balanced in a view ' Dibden, views about it Deer-leap Docking-horfes, the abfurdity of the pradice Deer, fellow; more incouraged in the foreft, than theftag II. 278 Elm, defcription of it — — . ^ I. 39 EfFe£ls of light,* not enough ftudied by landfcape painters ■ - Elephant ■ ■- - Englifh-foreft, charafter of it ■■ Edwin, k. of Northumberland, flain in Hatfield- chace ■ — — Edelfleda, a town built by her in Delamere-foreft Enfield-foreft divided into farms by Cromwell Even- water-bottom Exbury, a defcription of the fcenery about it Ear, horfe's J the abfurdity of cropping it Eagle, often found in the foreft Form of trees — — ■ I. 3 Firs in different parts of the world, fuppofitions about them I. 91 Fairlop, a celebrated oak in Hainhault-foreft in Eflex I. 141 b 3 Fig- I. 249 I. 278 I. 303 I. 313 I. 313 I. 324 II. 106 n. 183 II. 265 II. ^93 ( vi ) Fig-tree in the Deanery-garden at Winchefler Fig-trees at Lambeth ■■ Foreft, a general idea of it's fcenery Fore-ground, in a foreft ■ Fern, it's ufe in fcenery — — Foreft-diftance confidered • Foreft-lawn Forcft-heath — ■ FelHng trees accidentally has often a goo4 effedt Fitz- Stephen's account of the woods near London in the time of Henry IL — — Forefts of Derry-more, and Derry-monach ■ of Coygach, and Loch Mais — — ■ of Abernethy, and Rothimurcha — ■ of Loch-loyn, and Glenmorirton ■ of Strath-glafs, and Loch-garrie •— • 'of Loch-artrig, and Kinloch-leven — ■ of Glenmore, and Glentaner ■ I of Braemar, and Invercald — — - — of Loch-rannoc, and Loch-tulla — ■• of Torwood, Tiviot, and Cheviot »■ of Rothbury, and Lowes ■ ■ — ■ ■ - of Nicol, and Knaresdale . ■ — ■• of Weftwood, Inglewood, and Copeland » ofMilburn, Whinfield, and Martindale — — — • of Thornthwait, Stainmer, and Mellerftang ■ of Langden, or Teefdale ■ -• of Lancafter, Bowland, and Simonfwood - of Lime, and Applegarth — . - of Swale-dale, and Wenfely-dale — - of Pickering, and Knarefborough — -ofHarewood, and Galtries ■ -of HaUi fax, and Hatfield ■ - of Delamere, and Macclesfield »-— Page 148 148 209 211 219 225 225 226 266 293 304 304 305 • 305 30s 305 305 305 307 307 308 308 308 309 309 310 310 3" 311 312 312 312 313 Forefts ( vii ) Page Forefts of Wiicall, and Sherwood ' I. 313 — — — of Huckftow, and Kingfwood — !• 3^4 — of Bridgenorth, and Qune • I. 315 — ■- of Needwood, and Cankwood — I. 316 . ^ of Charnwood, and Leicefter — I. 316 — — of Lyfield, Bringwood, and Deerfield I. 317 ———of Ha wood, and Acombury — !• 3^7 — of Wire, Malvern, and Fackingham I. 317 — of Arden, Rockingham, and Sacy I. 318 . of Yardly, Whittlebury, and Wabrldge I. 318 ^ ■ of Dean, Micklewood, and King's wood I. 320 - of Which-wood, Bernwood, and Clitern I. 320 . . of Epping, and Hainhault ■ I. 3^* — — of Peeviftiam, and Blakemore — I- 3^^ ^. - of Bradon, and Savernack — — I. 3^^ of Windfor, and Enfield I. 3^2 >. lofTunbridge ' ■ I. 3^4 I of St. Leonard's, Word, and Afhdown I. 325 ... of Waterdown and Dallington — !• 3'^S • of Arundel, and Charlton • • !• 3^S ■ of Dartmore, and Exmore — — I. 325 — — of Neroke, and Sclwood ■ I. 3^^ — of Gillingham, and Cranburn — 1. 3^7 — . of Blackmore, and Purbeck — I- 3^7 of Chute, and Harewood — — I. 327 of Holt, and Waltham I. 328 of Bere and New-forcft — I. 328 Foreft-law, it's grievances — — II. 9 Fire, often mifchievous in the fore ft — II. 34 Forefter, and mountaneer compared, to the difad- vantage of the former — II. 4^ Foxlees — - II. 74 Foflil {hells i a variety of them found at Hordwell- clifF, near Lymington — — II. 87 b 4 Flat ( viii ) Page Flat furfaces, remarks on them — — II. 121 Fifliing, and fowling — — II. iqd Fowler, ftoryofone - — ^ II. 193 Fawley — — — i II. 202 Farm-yardj ill ftatloned near a great houfe II. 204 Fritham, heathy-grounds about it — II. 236 Farmer ; ftory of one, who fhot his own horfc II. 282 Fly, horfej a troublefome infecl in the forcft II. 297 G Groaning-tree of Badefley — — I. 162 Gates as the entrances into parks ; remarks upon them — — — I. 186 Glen defcribed — -— — !• ^97 Grove, the open one defcribed — I. 201 Greenland, and other northern conntriesj accounts of great quantities of drift-timber thrown on them — — . — . I. 288 Gibraltar ; drift-timber throvm up there — I. 289 Germany defpoiled of wood — — I. 29a Ghent, John of; deftroyed the foreft of Caledonia I. 298 Gillingham-foreft ; Danes defeated on the confines of it by Edmund Ironfide — I. 326 Game-law arofe in the room of foreft-law II. 14 Gradation, remarks on this principle — II. 125 George III. his vifit to New-foreft — II. 218 H Hop, the growth of, beautiful Horn-beam — Horfe-chefnut — Hemlock-fpruce — — I. 18 — I. 48 — I. 61 I. 91 Holly I. 125 ( ix ) Page Holly — — I. 98 and 218 Haw-thorn — — I. 99 and 219 Holm-trees, four of great antiquity, at Tybur, and Rome — — — Hitchin-priory in Hertfordftiire ; account of an im- menle chefnut tliere — Hern's oak, near Windfor — Hazinefs, it's efFedl in foreft-fcenery Hunting in Braemar-foroft — . Hallifax-law — — Haftirigs, Henry ; account of iiim Hordwell-clifF; a defcription of it Hurft-caftlej it's fituation, and the views it com- mands — — Hogarth, an inftance of his humour Hinchelfea-wood — Hogs ; method of feeding them in the foreft Hampfliire, coaft of, defcribed n Hill-top-gate, views from thence Houfe, fituation for one, difficult to choofe Hethe, views from it — Hound's- down defcribed — Horfe, New-foreft ; defcription of him Hart — — Hind, her fpirit In defending her calf Hares abound in the foreft — Harmony, local ; remarks upon it Honey-bee ; frequent in the foreft Honey, foreft ; not in efteem Hern defcribed — — Ivy, often beautiful Jlex, Oj^ ever-green oak — I. 140 — I. 145 — I. 234 — I. 306 — I. 312 — II. 22 — II. 86 it com- — n. 89 — II. 91 — n. 104 II. "3 — n. 158 — n. 178 n. 205 - n. 206 - II. 208 - II. 250 - II. V3 - II. 278 — II. 283 - n. 289 - II. 296 - II. 296 - n. 300 r- I. 15 — I. 97 Johnfon, Page I. 222 I. 233 I. 290 I. 290 II. 212 II. 291 I. 131 I. 318 II. 18 ( ^ ) Johnfon, Dr. ; a paflage quoted from him — Incidental beauties of diftant foreft-fcenery Italy defpoiled of wood — — Iceland alfo ■. ■ ■■ « Iron's-hill-lodge — . K KIrcher's account of a chefnut on mount Etna Kenelworth-caftle in the foreft of Arden — Keepers, and groom-keepers of New-foreft Kitchens, thofe of abbeys commonly very fubftantial II. 144 King, capt. j his defcription of a river-fcene II. 167 King's-houfe at Lyndhurft — — II. 216 Kite — — ... _ II. 291 King's-wood, frequented by eagles — II. 293 Lightnefs, a chara£leriftic of beauty in a tree Lombardy-poplar, defcribed — — — — Lime-tree defcribed . ■ Larch defcribed . -i. . Luccam-oak defcribed ■ ■ Lycian-plane ■ - »-»i Longleat, fituationof — - — Lymington, town of, defcribed — - Longflade-bottom, a vaft bog ■ Leonard's, St. j a large barn ■ — — Lady-crofs-lodge •— .^ — » Lymington, harbour of, defcribed — Leap, views about it — ^— ^ II. 188 Lutterel's 5 52 55 70 97 123 182 277 94 104 136 ISO 157 { xi ) Page Lutterel's tower — — ■ ■ ■ II. 196 Lyndhurft II. 216 Landfcape, woodland j moft fubje(Sl to injury II. 304 M Mofs, often beautiful In trees ■ ■■ I. lO Motion, beautiful in trees — — •■ — I. 20 Mountain-afh defcribed « ■ I. 37 Maple defcribed » ■ I. 5^ Menalaid-plane — I. 123 Maundrel, his account of the cedars of Lebanon I. 128 Magdalen college in Oxford, an account of a cele- brated oak there — — ■■ I. 135 Mift, it's efFedl on foreft-fcenery — — I. 235 Meridian-fun, it's efFedls on foreft-fcenery I. 242 Man, in his early ftate, a foreft-animal I. 271 Monkey ■ '■ I. 279 Moufe-deer — ^ I. 280 Marfden, Mr. ; his account of the woods of Sumatra I. 287 Mansfield, miliar of — — I. 314 Morant, Mr. j view from his park ■ II. 63 Monmouth, duke of j where taken, arter the battle ofSedgmore ■ ■.. ■ II. 81 Marl-pit-oak, a landmark . II. 102 Mark- way-bottom ' II. 108 Mudlands, how dangerous ■ II. 171 Maniac, ftory of one •^' » ■ ■ II. 188 Mud-pattens ■ _. II. 193 Mount-royal, Mr. Ballard's ■ II. 220 Malwood caftle ; a view from it » II. 231 Miniature, landfcapes in j remarks upon them II. 232 Mule, a foreft animal n ■ 1 ■ II. 269 Newfoundland ( xii ) N Newfoundland (or black) fpruce ■ Kewftadt, account of a remarkable lime-tree there North-wind, it's efFedl on foreft-fcenery New-forcft, firft made ' ■ reafons given for making it — ^ queftion examined, how far William I depopulated the country ■ ■ » — it's ancient boundaries Nature's fuperiority to art in forming combinations of trees - ■ New-park in New-foreft ■ Needles ; account of them — — — No-man's-walk — — — ■ ■ Page Norley-wood j defcription of it - Needfore-point '■. ■ — Nag-tail, it's abfurdity ■' ■ Nature j ideas of improving her works, abfurd Nightingale, frequent in the foreft ' I. 91 I. 131 I. 236 II. 2 II. 2 II. 4 II. 8 II. 65 II. 70 II. 91 II. 119 II. 151 II. 160 II. 256 II. 272 II. 288 o Oak defcribed • - ■•'-* I, 23 Occidental-plane defcribed ■ I. 48 Oriental-plane defcribed ■ I. 50 Oak, againft which the arrow of fir Walter Tyrrel glanced • ■ .- I. 160 Officers of New-foreft II. 17 Oak-woods converted into beech-woods II. 33 Oak of New-foreft, it's piclurefque charafler II. 73 Oak-brow — - ■■ 11. 105 Oaks, remarkable, at Burlcy-lodge m II. no Ober-green Xlll 14 19 52 81 181 182 185 188 214 217 229 Page Obcr-green ■ • ■ ■■« "■ II. 121 Orford, earl of i account of his training two ftags In a carriage ■ II. 279 Poets not always uniform in their ideas of beauty Pliny's account of the rooting of trees — Poplar defcribed — — — — Pinafter defcribed __ — ^ — , »_ Park-fcenery — — — — — Petworth-houfe, fituation of — — . __ Park-ornaments __ —1 — — Pleafure-ground — — — — Pouflin, fubjeds of his pictures — — Pont-du-Gard, in Languedoc, an account of it Permanent beauties of foreft-fcenery — »— • Parts in painting fhould always be fubordinate to the whole — '— — — — I. 253 Planters in vain attempt, by afTorting their trees, to aflbrt the beauties of autumn — — . J. 260 PiiSlurefque pleafure ; its fources — — I. 265 Purchas's account of the drift-timber carried down the Oby, and Jenifca — — — I. 288 Polidore Virgil's account of the ftate of forefts in England in the time of Henry VII. — I. 293 Pines, which yield excellent timber, found in the foreft of Invercald in Scotland — — 'I. 306 Pendragon-caftle — — — — I. 309 Purlieus of New-foreft — — ^-^ II. 15 Purveyor, in New-foreft — — ■ — II. 22 Planting oak ; different opinions about it — II. 35 Planting different trees alternately, difagreeable If. 75 Prieftlands ; a good view of the ille of Wight from it II. 93 Pawnage ( xiv ) Pawnage month ——.—,.,»_ Pilcwell — -, — , — . -_ Pidurefque ideas, and their limits, explained Palatines, a fcheme to fettle them in New-foreft Plano-convex-mirror examined — — . Paultons — • ^» , Pheafants abound in the foreft — — Partridges, lefs frequent ^— . — — Plover, common in its heathy parts — Page II. 112 II. 134 II. 166 II. 222 II. 224 II. 228 II. 284 II. 285 II. 287 Queen Elizabeth's oak — — — I. j^^y Queen Ann, a fcheme in her reign to fettle a body of Palatines in New-foreft — — II. 222 Rooting of trees, a fource of beauty — — Royal Sovereign j dimenfions of her main-maft Ravenna in Italy ; gates of the great church there, made of vine-planks — — -*- Rifmg-fun, its efFe£t on woods — — Rubens, his faulty introduction of fpots of light Rein-deer — — ^ ^_ — __ Robin-Hood, and other banditti, frequented Sher- wrood-forefl — * — __ _ Rockingham-caftle in the foreft of Rockingham Rapacity exercifed in forefts — — — Rope-hill j view from thence of the eftuary of Ly- mington-river ■ — Regular forms allied to greatnefs Ruffian foreft ; defer! piion of one •— Rhapfody, and verbal defcription, compared I . 19 . 127 • 131 • 239 . 24s . 282 • 3H . 318 . 32 . 6r . 65 . 68 . 69 Rufus, ( XV ) Rufus, fcene of his death .— — . — Ringwood — — — , »_ — , Rabbits injurious to feedling oaks — — ■ ' abound in the foreft — — • Rhinfield-lodge _„__ — — Roads, when ftraight, disfigure an open country Rails, a good mode of fencing ■ — ■ — Ring-dove, a foreft-bird — — — Rook, haunts the foreft only at night — Sycamore, defcription of it — — — Stone-pine defcribed — ■ — ■ — — Scotch-fir defcribed >— — —, — , Spruce-fir defcribed — — — . »— Silver-fir defcribed — — — • — Spray of trees, the ftudy of; ufeful to landfcape- painters — « — — , —, Spray of the oak — — — — ' .- ■ of the afti — — — , — of the beech — — — -— Stavv^el, lord ; fituation of his houfe in Holt-foreft Swanevelt, fubjedls of his pi6lures — » — Salvator, fubje£ts of his pidlures — -r-. Smoke, its efFedt in foreft-fcenery — « — Setting-fun, its effect on foreft-fcenery — Storms, their effedt on foreft-fcenery — Shade, predominancy of; produces the beft effect Seafons, a fource of incidental beauty Summer Page II. 76 II. 80 II. 107 II. 283 II. 120 II. 128 II. 210 11. 216 II. 286 II. 293 58 78 84 88 90 102 106 107 108 109 182 214. 215 236 243 247 251 25s 255 256 Strabo, ( xvi ) Strabo, his account of certain Afiatics — — • '— ' and of the ancient Britons Subterraneous-timber accounted for « Spaniards in 1588 intended to cut down the foreft of Dean — — Scotch foreft, chara6t:er of it Selwood-foreft, remarkable for a victory obtained near it by Alfred over the Danes Sopley, view there Salt-works near Lymington Shingles, an ifland on the Hamplhire coaft ; account of it . SkifFin motion, defcribed — — . Sethorn-wood ■ ■ — — Scotch-cattle at Burly-lodge — — Sandy- down — — — — Spits of land remarkable at the mouths of the foreft- ^ Singing-birds frequent the banks of Beaulieu-river Sea-views, when feen from lofty ftands, will not admit proportion in the fore-grounds Stables, how they may be Rationed — — Stobland-common, view from it ■■ Stag, defcribed — — Sheep ; the foreft not much frequented by them Squirrel abounds in the foreft — Snipe, frequent in the foreft — Sea-gull, his manners defcribed — Sea-fowl in general — — ■ ■■■* Page I. 2:72 I. 276 I. 294 I. 298 I. 3or I. 326 I. 82 I. 88 I. 92 L 96 I. 104 I. no I. 128 I- 134 I. 160 I- ^7i I. 200 I. 204 I. 206 r. 271 I. 283 I. 284 1. 287 I. 298 I. 299 Trees ( xvii ) Page T Trees compared with animal life — — I. 2 Traveller's joy, beautiful — — — !• ^7 Tugg, a fort of wane ufed in Suflex for conveying timber — — — — — I. Il6 Trees, which have attained large dimenfions j cata- logue of — — — — — I. 120 Tiberius's larch — — — — I. 126 Tortworth in Glocefterlhire, account of a chefnut there — — — — — I. 139 Tyrrel, fir Walter; tree, on which his arrow glanced — — — — — I. 1 60 Timber-v/ane, drawn by oxen, has often a good effect — _ -^ — — I. 267 Tiger — — — — — — I. 278 Turks great admirers of wood — — I. 291 Tees, fall of — — — • — — I- 310 Tutbury-caftle on the confines of Needwood-foreft I. 315 Turkies, an ornament to parks — — I. 323 Timber, care of government in providing a fupply in New-foreft — — — — II. 28 TrefpafTes on foreft-lands — — • — - II. 39 Tafte, comparifon between it, and expence — II. 186 Tail, horfe's ; abfurdity of docking it — — II. 255 U Upas, or poifon-tree, in Java — — — • I. 156 Uncommon appearances in nature, to be avoided I. 237 UndcrwooJ, it's ufe in landfcape — — < II. 72 c Vines, ( xviii ) Pa»e V Vines, beantiful ^— — — — !• ^7 Vanier, his lamentation over the deftruftion of timber •— >— — — ■ — I. 117 Velitrae, a famous plane-tree there — >— I. 125 Van Egmont, his account of the cedars of Le- banon — — — — — I. 129 Valentine-houfe, near Ilford in ElTex ; a remarkable vine there — — — — I. 149 Voltair's reafoning about depopulating New-foreft, examined — — — — > II. 4 ■ his epigram on docking horfes — II. 264 Verderors, judges of the for eft-courts — II. 20 Vifta, a very grand one between Brokenhurft, and Lyndhurft — — — — II. 64 Valley of Lymington-river >— — — II. 128 Vegetation, extraordinary inftance of — ■ — 11. 141 Voyage up Beaulieu-river — — — II. 161 Vifta beyond Lyndhurft, of little value — II. 220 Vicar's-hill — — — — — II. 239 Vanderveldt makes great ufe of the fea-guU — II. 299 W Withered top — .— — — — I. 8 Wreathed fafcia —^ — — — I. 36 Witch-elm defcribed — — — — I. 41 Weeping elm defcribed — — — I. 41 Walnut-tree defcribed — — — I. 54 Weeping-willovj^ defcribed — -^ — I. 62 Willows of different kinds — — — I. 63 Withy defcribed — — — — I. 64 Weymouth* Page 82 138 143 214 219 233 261 281 282 ( xlx ) Weymouth-pine defcribed — . — — . Workfop, an account of a celebrated oak there Wallace-tree, a celebrated oak near Sterling — Waterlo, fubjedls of his pl6lures — — Weeds, their ufe in landfcape — — Weather, a fource of incidental beauty — Winter, the pi£lurefque efFe£l of that feafon — Wild-boar — — — — _ Wolf — — — — — _- Windfor-foreft formerly the property of queen Emma I. 322 Windfor great park ■ L 323 Whorwell-abby, founded by Elfrida in the foreft of Hare wood ■ ■ I. 327 Walks, different; into which New- foreft is divided II. 18 Woodward, and regarders, officers in New-foreft, who fuperintend the timber — — II. 20 William III, a falutary ad in his reign, for pro- viding a fupply of timber in New-foreft Widow ; ftory of one on the borders of the foreft Wilverly-lodge - — — Wild-boar introduced into New-foreft by Charles I Warwickfted ■ ■ ■ Whitley-ridge-lodge ; a beautiful foreft-lawn there Wood-cutters, their different modes of felling timber II. Wight, ifland of; it's coaft defcribed — — White-hart-filver — — II. 274 Wood-cock, not often found in the foreft II. 287 Wood-pecker — — «■■ — - II. 289 Xerxes's plane •— — . » ■■■ " I. 122 Yew 11. 30 II. 46 II. 107 II. 118 II. 120 II. 131 II. 149 II. 155 II. 158 C XX ) Page Yew ■ - I. 92 Ytene, the ancient name of New-forell ■ II. 2 Yew-tree-bottom — — ■ II. 106 Z Zcilaadj account of a bleak fea-coaft there I. 269 \ ^ THE GEnV CENTER LIBRARY lEi^J^J^/mEi^JSl[M^jm/^/^l/s^j^i^i;^rnjrc; I m — 1l 3J^j0^j^j^i^/Sf^raraF^r^rQjj^/^jH3/^/Q2J