IPBTBIRIEIE.IL, lESSEZ MEMORIALS OF THU ANTIQUITIES AND ARCHITECTURE, FAMILY HISTORY AND HERALDRY OF THE COUNTY OF ESSEX. BY THE REV. ALFRED SUCKLING, LL.B. RURAL DEAN, RECTOR OF BARSHAM, AND .MEMBER OF THE BRITISH ARCHAEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION. THIRTY-FOUR PLATES AND SEVENTY-ONE WOOD-CUTS. LONDON: JOHN WEALE, 59, HIGH HOLBORN. * MDCCCXLY. P R E F A C E. The purchasers of the present volume are respectfully apprized that its contents first made their appearance in a larger work, entitled “ Quarterly Papers on Archi¬ tecture/’ The favourable reception which they met with from the clergy and pro¬ fessional architects, has induced the publisher to present them in a separate form, and in accordance with the wishes of many gentlemen, desirous of possessing them as records of a district rich in archaeological remains. The Memorials of Essex were written by the author with no view to publication, and having been printed without his subsequent revision, must be received with some degree of candour and charity; but being the result of personal investigation, and the expression of genuine feeling, they may, possibly, possess a naivete and freshness sometimes lost in more elaborate composition, and a fidelity of representa¬ tion not unfrequently exchanged for meretricious effect. T he reader will, perhaps, find some of the notices slight or defective, but, it is believed, he will not detect many serious faults. Several antiquarian anecdotes of no little interest are introduced, which have not previously appeared, and it is hoped many specimens of taste and ingenuity rescued from the oblivion attendant on wanton neglect and modern apathy. It cannot be denied that the last generation was shamefully careless of our noblest monuments of ancient genius and taste; and that the present age, though professing to restore them to an esteem and condition, of which they have been so unjustly deprived, has too often repaired with clumsiness and parsimony, what our fore¬ fathers perfected with skill and liberality. Any attempt, therefore, however humble, to revive a charming art—to lead to a purer taste, and to a more correct knowledge of principles—founded on an investiga¬ tion of architectural facts, deserves to be tolerated; and if the present volume should, in the remotest degree, achieve any one of these points, the author will not have written ineffectually, nor the publisher consider as a labour in vain, the considerable expense which he has incurred. ©IF SroKTMIf MASSSIHTr, jESaiiX THE SUCKLING PAPERS. COUNTY OF ESSEX. STONDON MASSEY. With the church of Stondon Massey commences my eleventh volume of “ Antique and Armorial Collections; ”—and I hope opportunity sufficient will be afforded me to devote its entire contents to the county of Essex, in which it is situated. Few dis¬ tricts offer subjects of higher interest; and although I must admit the want of the beauties of a stately cathedral, yet its remains of Roman castrametation—its castel¬ lated and its monastic ruins—its ecclesiastical and domestic structures—present, in singularity of design and construction, unparalleled examples of ancient art. The Roman works at Chesterford, considered by some as the most entire in England; the castles of Colchester and Hedingham; the Abbey of Waltham and the Priory of St. Botolph, both exceedingly curious specimens ; the round church of Maplested ; and above all, the wooden church of Greensted, perhaps a genuine instance of Anglo- Saxon Architecture; the houses of Layer Mamey and Audley-end, these, and va¬ rious others that might be justly adduced, will, I think, bear me out in asserting that the county of Essex is not to he surpassed in the possession of those curious and in¬ teresting remains which constitute the riches of architectural antiquities. Nor will the church of Stondon Massey, upon a close examination, be considered as unworthy of addition to such a list. Although its south side makes a drawing of but little ap¬ parent interest, yet its northern fa 9 ade, uninjured by modern innovation, presents a more remarkable display of the peculiar architecture of Anglo-Norman times, than I have hitherto met with. Three small round-headed loop-holes, placed, with the most jealous precaution, in the very uppermost portion of the wall, alone admit light from this side of the building; while a similar number, in a situation exactly correspond¬ ing, originally pierced the south wall, of which two still remain; the third has dis- B 2 SUCKLING PAPERS. appeared, having given place to a larger window in the nave, of a much more recent era. These six apertures, then, with one at the east and one at the west end, most likely of equal dimensions, afforded all the light, which the devotees of that turbulent period thought it prudent to enjoy. The east end, I grieve to say, is now filled with a modern sash-window: the lancet-window, to be observed in the drawing, placed high up the gable, may be original, and was, perhaps, at first, round-headed, but I can offer nothing positive on this point, as recent masonry is apparent in this part of the edifice. Below are correct drawings of the interior and exterior of one of these loop-holes ; the Saracenic or horse-shoe termination of which must not be suffered to pass unnoticed. Though Stondon may be inferior in its masonry and finish to the celebrated church o Barfreston m Kent, it far exceeds that edifice, in my opinion, as an example of STONDON MASSEY. 3 early Anglo-Norman Architecture. A reference to the drawings, in page % will show that the church of Stondon comprises merely a nave and chancel, of nearly the same width: whether its eastern termination was originally circular I cannot determine, as a modern brick wall forms the present gable. In the interior are a few monuments, which may be thus briefly noticed. First, at the foot of two small figures, in brass, are the following lines in black letter Who liste to see and known himselfe may loke upo this glase, And view ye beaten pathe of death w c he shall one day pase ; W L way I Ramold Holingworth w E pacient mind have gone ; Whose bodi here, as death hath changd, lieth coveed w l this ston : Thus dust to dust is brought againe, y e earthe she hath her owne, This shall y e lot of all men be, before the trumpe be blowne. Obiit 17 Aprilis, A°. 1573. Mors michi vita. 2. To the memory of .Johanna Hollingworth, Spinster, Lady of the Manor of Stonedon Massey, who died April 12, 1829, at Stonedon Place, in this parish, and was buried in the family vault at Thundridge, in the county of Herts. On this monument are the arms of Hollingworth. HOLLINGWORTH. 3. A mural tablet, inscribed to the memory of the families of How and Taylor, who resided at Stondon Place upwards of a century. 4. John Leigh, of Stondon Place, Gent., died 3rd of October, 1650. 5. Hie jacet Jacobus Crooke nuper hujus ecclesim Rector, qui vitam Deo resignavit suam 1" die Mensis Martij, A.D. 1706, annoque aetatis sum 67. At the west end of this church is a stone octangular font, with the rose ornaments so commonly met with in this shaped ornament; while a screen of wood divides the nave and chancel, which is in good preservation, hut does not exhibit any peculiar tracery. A frame of oak timber, however, which occupies a considerable portion of the western end, and sustains the present tower and bells, is entitled to observation, on account of its singular construction. * 4 SUCKLING PAPERS. The north and south doors of the nave are perfectly plain, having neither column nor moulding in any part. GREENSTED. Had we not the concurrent testimony of writers to confirm the fact, it would be a natural conclusion, that the public buildings of barbarous nations would be con¬ structed of the same materials as their private dwellings: unacquainted with the science which could teach how to shape the rough stone of the quarry, or to raise in air the self-suspended arch, the softer substance of wood at once would offer a more efficient material for the hands of artless workmen. Temples, in honour of their heathen deities, we learn, were so framed previously to the conversion of the Scandi¬ navians, and after that event, their churches were still hewn from the neighbouring- forests ; indeed, timber appears to have been the material most usually employed by the Northmen for this purpose. One very remarkable building thus constructed is yet in existence in Norway—it is the church of Hitterdall, in Lower Tellemark, erected about the twelfth century 4 ; it is reared of balks of fir, now hardened and blackened by time, and decorated with carvings of scales and lozenges. The same fashion prevailed in this kingdom. “There was a time,” says venerable Bede, “ when there was not a stone church in all the land, but the custom was to build them all of wood. Finan, the second Bishop of Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, built a church in that island, a.d. 652, for a cathedral, which yet was not of stone, but of wood, and covered with reeds.” b At York, we learn, the earliest cathedral was con¬ structed of like materials, and a church of stone, erected at Lincoln, by Paulinus, was esteemed not only a prodigy deserving historical mention, but a work of art so wonderful, that healing miracles were wrought by it for the benefit of those whose faith led them to gaze upon it 0 . The Abbey Church of iEthelingey, erected by the great Alfred, and of which the historians of that day speak in rapturous terms, was built only of wood. Edgar the peaceable, who flourished after the middle of the tenth century, observed that, at his accession to the .throne, all the monasteries in England were in a ruinous condition, and consisted only of rotten boards and shingles d . That this method of constructing sacred buildings was not totally abandoned even at a still later period, is evident from the circumstance that, pre¬ viously to the foundation of the present cathedral at Salisbury, in the thirteenth a See Weale’s Quarterly Papers on Architecture, Vol. I., Paper and Engravings on the Primitive Churches of Norway. b Bedse. Hist. Ec. 1. 3. c. 4—25. c Id. 1. 2. cap. 16. d Will. Malm. GREENSTED. century, the first business of the monks was to erect and consecrate a wooden chapel for temporary use. We are not, however, so much surprised at this method of construction, as astonished at its durability; a very remarkable instance of which presents itself in the little church of Greensted, erected about the year 1013, and whose timber walls remain so strong and sound as to dely conjecture as to their probable duration. It is a mere log-house, built of the trunks of trees, like those described by the Anglo- Saxon writers, and was originally erected as a sort of shrine, for the reception of the corpse of St. Edmund, which, on its return from London to Bury St. Edmund’s, in the year 1013, was, as Lydgate, a monk of that monastery, informs us, conveyed in a chest. In a MS. entitled “ The Life and Passion of Saint Edmund,” preserved at Lambeth Palace, it is recorded, that in the year one thousand and ten, (thirtieth of Ethelred,) the body of Saint Edmund was removed to London, on account of the invasion of the Danes, but that at the expiration of three years it was returned to Bedriceworth, (Bury St. Edmund’s, in Suffolk,) and that it was received on its return from London at Stapleford. And in another MS., cited by Dugdale in his Monasti- con, and entitled “ The Register of Saint Edmund’s Bury,” it is further added, “ he was also sheltered near Aungre, where a wooden chapel remains as a memorial unto this day.” The parish of Aungre, or Ongar, herein mentioned, adjoins that of Greensted, where this church is situated, and through which the ancient road from London into Suffolk passed ; and no doubt has ever been entertained that this rough and unpolished fabric of oak is the “ wooden chapel near Aungre.” A tradition has ever since existed in the village, that the bones of a Saxon monarch once rested in this church ; and although tradition does in some cases, as I willingly allow, nourish erroneous opinions, yet when, as in the present case, it is found to he divested of all fable, and conforms itself so exactly to the records of history, and to existing monu¬ ments of antiquity, it must be granted to afford very strong additional testimony. As a view of the church accompanies this notice of Greensted, with a ground plan, and detail of a portion of the edifice, on a large scale, I trust that a few words will suffice to make any one, unacquainted with the building itself, perfectly compre¬ hend its peculiarities and construction. The timber walls, which I take to be of oak, though some imagine them to be of chestnut wood, are but six feet in height on the outside, including the sill; they are not, as usually described, “ half trees,” but have had a portion of the centre or heart cut out, probably to furnish beams for the con¬ struction of the roof and sills; the outside or slabs thus left were placed on the sill, but by what kind of tenon they are there retained does not appear ; while the upper ends, being roughly adzed off to a thin edge, are let into a groove, and which, with 6 SUCKLING PAPERS. the piece of timber in which it is cut, runs the whole length of the building itself; the door posts are of squared timber, and these are secured in the above-mentioned groove by small wooden pins, still firm and strong—a truly wonderful example of the durability of British oak. The wall on the south side, besides leaning a little out¬ wards, inclines somewhat towards the eastward, but further declension is prevented b) the erection of brick buttresses, as these, with a modern porch of wood, in some measure conceal the original face of the south side. I have preferred taking my drawing from the north-west, where nothing intervenes to obstruct a complete view. By a reference to the ground plan, it will appear that the east end has been destroyed, to admit access to a more modern chancel, and thus we are unable to determine whether, like most Saxon churches, this also ended in a semicircular sweep. At the west end, a way has been cut to the tower; and here I had an opportunity of examin¬ ing the very heart of the timber; to the edge of an exceedingly good pocket knife it appeared like iron, and has acquired from age a colour approaching to ebony, hut of a more beautiful brown; and if any conclusion may be drawn from the appearance of the whole building, I see no reason why it should not endure as long as it has already existed. The outsides of all the trees are furrowed to the depth of about an inch into long stringy ridges, by the decay of the softer parts of the timber, hut these ridges seem equally hard as the heart of the wood itself; the north doorway, which measures only four feet five inches in height, by two feet five inches in width, is at present closed with masonry, but the aperture must have been original. It is gene¬ rally thought that the wood work of the roof is coeval with the walls, and it was most likely formerly covered with thatch, as Bede describes, and as may still he seen on many village churches in the county of Norfolk. The body of the church is lighted by windows in the roof, but these are decidedly o a recent date; what little light its interior enjoyed in its primitive state was probably admitted from the east end, if any windows existed at all; hut if we consider the aw ess state of the times, and the sanctity, and consequent value of St. Edmund’s bones, it will not he hazarding a conjecture devoid of reason, to suppose that it was illumined solely by the flame of torches*. How the interior was originally finished, cannot be now determined ; at the pre¬ sent moment it is kept m a very neat and reputable state ; its walls and ceiling are plastered and whitewashed, and its area affords sufficient accommodation for the population of the parish. Let us hope, that having escaped demolition during the a Erasmus states, that when he visited the chapel the place, that wax tapers supplied the only light. of Our Lady of Walsingham, such was the sanctity of FRYERNING dark ages which have immediately preceded us, no one can be found tasteless enough to meditate its demolition. The chancel is of red brick, and in the style character¬ istic of the latter days of Henry the Seventh’s reign; at the south-east angle is a piscina of a very unusual fashion, hut no other architectural embellishment attracts our attention. MONUMENTS. 1. Sacred to the memory of Mary Smith, the deservedly beloved and affectionate wife of Craven Ord, and daughter of John Redman, both of Greensted Hall, Esquires, who, after enduring with Christian fortitude and patience a long and painful illness, calmly resigned her life to Him who gave it, on the 1st day of March, 1804, aged 39 years, leaving a deeply afflicted husband and seven children to deplore the irreparable loss of her conjugal affection, her mater¬ nal tenderness, and her pious example. A tribute of the most tender affection, and an earthly memorial of those virtues which, through her Redeemer’s merits, are recorded in Heaven; this tablet is erected by her ever lamenting husband. 2. With the arms of Smith : Here lieth Jone, sister to Sir Thomas Smith of Mont, Knight, second wife of Alune Wood of Snodland in Kent, Gent., who livinge vertuouselie 66 yeeres, died godly the xx of August, 1585. 3. Prope jacet Richardus Hewyt, A.M., hujus ecclesiae quondam rector, in villa Eccles apud Lancastrienses natus, ubi natus etiam fuit celeberrimus ille Theologise Doctor Johannes Hewyt, qui ob fidem Carolo 2. exulanto, nefaria perduellium sententia securi percussus est. Richardus patruo tarn illustri nepos non indignus obiit 26 April, a.d. 1724. 4. With the arms of Warren, with an inescocheon : Underneath lie the remains of the Rev. William Hamilton Warren, A.M., late rector of this parish, who, for 31 years, discharged the duties of his ministry in this place. He departed this life the 9th of November, 1825, aged 64. This small tribute to his memory is placed by his affectionate widow, Sarah Sindry Warren. FRYERNING. Fryerning, or the Fryars’ Pastures, obtained that appellation from having been appropriated, at a very early period, to the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem. It is a pleasant village in the hundred of Chelmsford, but the greater part of its popu¬ lation is crowded into a long and ill-built street on the London road, and which is generally known to travellers under the name of Ingatestone, although the latter place claims scarcely one third of the dwelling-houses. The church stands nearly a mile to the northward of this street on a rising ground, which commands an extensive and delightful view in all directions, and is 8 SUCKLING PAPERS. closely planted with firs and venerable yew trees, whose dark foliage casts a sombre shade around the churchyard, highly in unison with the sacred character of the place. The church, which comprises merely a nave and chancel, without aisles, is an edifice of considerable antiquity, and was probably founded soon after the Norman Conquest; a few of its original windows are remaining with round arches, and placed very high up in the wall, but they are much wider than any I have met with of that period. About the time of Edward the First, considerable alterations were made in this structure, when several windows of more ample dimensions were inserted in the walls; but it was in the reign of Henry the Seventh when Fryerning church received its last and most important restoration, the whole tower, with its cushion-like pinna¬ cles and machicolated battlements—a strangely inappropriate ornament for a sacred structure—was then raised ; the chancel was rebuilt, and the very expansive arch between that portion of the building and the nave, was probably executed; these alterations have given a new air to the interior, and the older features of its archi¬ tecture are most likely overlooked by the greater part of those who compose its con¬ gregation. Besides these peculiarities in this church, we must not suffer to pass unnoticed the curious staircase leading from the interior to the rood loft, and the ancient square font, the carving on the eastern side of which represents a kind of foliage ; on the other sides, which all vary, are cut stars, crescents, and knots. MONUMENTS. 1. On a loose brass, lying in the vestry, is the effigy of a female; but as the inscription and arms are no longer attached, the name of the person intended to have been perpetuated is consigned to oblivion; but the most remarkable circum¬ stance connected with this memorial is, that on turning the figure, we perceive that it has been cut out of a larger and more ancient effigy—a cheap, but very exception¬ able method of placing a monument to the memory of a departed relative. The female figure, as appears from the costume, belongs to the time of Elizabeth, but the destroyed effigy was of a much more early date, and was a larger and more elegant monument, as is evident from the remains of gilding with which it seems to have been originally covered. 2 . Here lieth the body of Mrs. Margaret, the wife of Henry Oates, who departed this life July 21, 1763, aged 35 years. Against the north wall of the chancel is a large shield containing Disney and his V ' uramiMa) MARGARETING. 9 quarterings, impaling Fitche. Members of this family are interred in a vault in the churchyard. A board against the organ gallery, which was erected in 1736, at the expense of Charles Hornby, Esq., presents us with the following list of benefactions :— “ The Reverend Robert D’Oyley, M. A. rector of this parish, bequeathed by will, a.d. 1733, thirty shillings per year, to be expended in the purchase of bread, to be distributed to the poor of this parish at Christmas and Easter for ever. “ Mr. William Bright bequeathed by will, a.d. 1777> one hundred pounds, to be invested in the 3 per cent. Consols, and the interest thereof to be expended in the purchase of bread, to be distributed to the poor of this parish at Christmas and Easter for ever, payable at the Corporation House, £4 10s., Number 2, Bloomsbury Place, London, due at Christmas. The Reverend Mr. D’Oyley’s at the same place. “ Mrs. Rosamond Bonham, of this parish, bequeathed by will, a.d. 1803, one hundred pounds stock in the Three per Cent. Reduced; the interest (£3) thereof to be expended in the purchase of bread, to be distributed to the poor of this parish annually. “ Mr. Robert Sorrell bequeathed by will, a.d. 1825, one hundred pounds stock, in the Three per Cent, and Half Reduced, the interest thereof to be expended in the purchase of bread, to be distributed to the poor of this parish at Christmas and Easter, £3 10s.” It appears that the organ was erected in 1824, by voluntary contributions, R. Michell, D.D., being at that time rector. Too much commendation cannot be passed upon the Rev. George Price, the present incumbent, the churchwardens, and all concerned in the management of this church, for the very neat and reputable manner in which it is kept. MARGARETING. Had this little village received a translation instead of an inversion of its Saxon compounds, its appellation at the present day might have sounded less harshly to our ears. Ging Margaret (as it is written in Domesday Book) Ee m3 coapsaper, signi¬ fying literally the Meadow of Margaret. As the church is dedicated to a female saint of that name, and the greater part of the parish lies on the banks of the little river which flows onwards towards Chelmsford, no derivation can be more accurately defined, or more justly applied, yet St. Margaret’s Meadow must be allowed to be a more euphonical, as well as a more intelligible appellation, than that which it at present bears of Margareting. It is a straggling village, extending along and in c 10 SUCKLING PAPERS. great part bisected by the London and Chelmsford road, for above three miles; while its breadth, which varies much, is in no part of a similar magnitude. The soil may certainly be considered fertile, though of a deep and clayey quality, and its surface is agreeably diversified by gentle swells and undulations. The purity of its air may be demonstrated from the age and vigour of its inhabitants, many of whom are at this day (Jan. 1834) verging fast towards ninety years, and in the enjoyment of their mental and corporeal faculties in a degree very unusual at such an advanced period of life. That Margareting was possessed of more than ordinary village importance in the Saxon era, may be fairly premised from the existence of a church at that period, but whether that structure occupied the site of the present edifice, or stood more in the centre of the parish, is a question which cannot now be determined. The acquirement of this comparative consequence originated probably in some military transactions which appear to have taken place here in days still more re¬ mote: what were the objects of the contending parties, or whether victory united her¬ self to the cause of the injured or the aggressions of the invaders, have hitherto eluded my researches; but a very large tumulus, near the eastern extremity of the parish, would probably dispel some portion of this uncertainty, were its interior sub¬ mitted to the examination of the antiquary. This tumulus is situated close to the road leading towards Chelmsford, and from its elevated site and great extent was chosen about a century since as a good situation for a windmill; but this disfigurement has long been removed, and its original character restored. Margareting possesses many very respectable houses and an increasing population, as appears from the several returns made at the various periods of the latest en¬ quiries. These returns are as follow :— “The total of the population of Margaretting in the year 1811 was 399; males, 184; females, 215 ; inhabited houses, 86; inhabited by 87 families. No house was building in that year, 1811; one house was uninhabited ; families, agricultural, 74 ; families, handicraft or trading, 17; other families, 5. “ Population, &c., of Margaretting, according to the census of 1821, males, 237; females, 242 ; inhabited houses, 91; inhabited by 94 families ; no house building or uninhabited; agricultural families, 59; trading or handicraft families, 21; other occupations, 14; total, 479- “ Population, &c., of Margaretting, according to the census of 1831, males, 282; females, 263; inhabited houses, 106 ; inhabited by 106 families; no house building or uninhabited; agricultural families, 67; trade or handicraft families, 16; other families, 22; total of population, 545.” MARGARETING. 11 From these statements it will evidently appear that the population of this village has increased very nearly one third during the last twenty years. The parish contains two thousand acres, of which about one fourth only is grass land ; the rates and tithe of these are fixed for the present year (1834) on the fol¬ lowing scale:— Poor rate, including the county rate, at 45. in the pound; the amount of county rate in the above is about £40 yearly. Churchwarden’s rate, Qd. in the pound. Highway rate, about Qd. in the pound, and work half statute duty. Rectorial tithe £500 ; vicarial tithe, £155 ; drawn tithe, £30. Land tax exonerated, £128 105. 8 d. ; ditto, not exonerated £88 135. 4 and died at Westminster, without issue, on the 24th of July, 1536, in the seventeenth year of his age, and to the sincere regret of his father. He was buried at Thetford in Norfolk. e 2 28 SUCKLING PAPERS. BOREHAM. The church at Boreliam is a large edifice of various styles aud different eras ; and though it happily does not greatly abound in the nondescript imitations of modern days, may be said to embrace specimens of almost every variety from that which was used by our Norman ancestors to the debased architecture fashionable in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The original structure comprised simply a nave and chancel, extending the entire length of the present building, having a low square tower standing over the centre : this tower has been since raised a story, and finished with battlements ; an operation which the great solidity of its walls rendered perfectly feasible. The next addition to this pile was the south aisle or chapel, attached to the nave during the reign of Henry the Third, if I am not mistaken as to the shape and proportions of its windows. Next was added the north aisle, a building of spacious dimensions, with large and expansive windows, in the style of Edward the Fourth’s era. This is sup¬ posed to have been the work of a private family, and is still distinguished by their name, being called the Tendring Aisle ; it is thought to contain the remains of many of that race. The final addition was that which is called the Sussex Chancel, built of red brick, on the south side of the eastern end, and erected by Thomas Radcliffe, Earl of Sussex, as a mausoleum for himself, his father, grandfather, and his heirs. His intentions were strictly executed, and the bodies of these accomplished noblemen lie interred within its walls. No part, however, of the edifice equals in architectural grace and proportion the original chancel, which, I regret to say, has, within these few years, been excluded from general view by a wall built across the western arch of the tower, thereby confining the congregation to the western portion of the church, and consigning the elegant chancel to unmerited neglect, and to the reception of rubbish. Though the tower shows unequivocal marks of Norman erection, it cannot be re¬ ferred to a more remote period than the reign of King John, as neither of the arches beneath its walls are circular; one being highly pointed, and the other brought to an obtuse angle, varying little from a semicircle ; yet a small door, giving access to an interior turret staircase, is finished in the circular style, with square capitals project¬ ing slightly from the walls, but unfurnished with columns. In short, the architect, like many in that period, seemed divided in his opinion, whether to adopt a new fashion, which was then just forcing its merits into notice, or to adhere to the older and better understood principles. The west end of the nave is entirely occupied with an ample window, throwing a flood of light upon the interior: it is filled with BOREHAM. 29 mullions and perpendicular tracery of rather heavy proportions, and is more remark¬ able, in my opinion, for its magnitude than for the beauty of its component parts. An elegant octagonal font, having arches and pediments of Edward the First s time, stands at the west end of the south aisle. The pointed arches of the nave being devoid of mouldings, have much the ap¬ pearance of modern imitations. This preferment is a vicarage, and the present incumbent is the Rev. William Carpenter Ray. The bishop of the diocese is the impropriator. The registers com¬ mence in the year 1559, and are written by the vicar for many following years, in a very beautiful hand, and with a most methodical arrangement. Amongst other entries in the year 1593 is a very extraordinary one, which proves that Boreham has had its share in the disgraceful persecutions so frequently exercised against aged and helpless females for the imaginary crime of witchcraft. It is as follows: “ Anno Domini, 1593, July 29th. “ • H ■ Mother Haven suffered at Barham for witchcraft the sam day. “ Gilbert Amand.” At the head of every entry is a capital letter, the initial of the ceremony per¬ formed, as C. for christened ; B. for buried; M. for married. It is probable, there¬ fore, that * H • signified that this victim of persecution was hanged. In that part of the church which I have before described as the Sussex Chancel, stands an altar tomb of various coloured marbles, and of large dimensions. On its slab lie extended the full length figures of three knights in martial costume, finished with that minute attention to detail so remarkably conspicuous in the sculpture of our ancient sepulchral effigies. The various ornaments of helmets and recumbent animals which are placed at the feet and the heads of the figures, as well as the figures themselves, are much mutilated by the falling in of the roof, which occurred hut a few years since, and as the material employed by the sculptor is of a very soft nature, scarcely harder than chalk, the injury sustained was consequently the more serious. The effigies are intended to represent Robert Radcliffe, who died in 1542, Henry Radcliffe, his son, who died in 1556; and Thomas Radcliffe, the grandson of the first-mentioned earl, by whose directions the monument was erected, and the bodies of his predecessors removed from the place of their first sepulture, in the church of Saint Laurence Pountney in London, to this vault at Boreham, where they have ever since reposed. The inscriptions on the sides of the tomb ai e so long and explanatory as to supersede the necessity of giving farther biographical notices re- 30 SUCKLING PAPERS. specting these accomplished noblemen, the latter of whom was the virtuous and stern opponent of Elizabeth’s profligate favourite, Leicester. 1. Beati mortui, qui in Domino moriuntur—requiescunt a laboribus suis, et opera eorum sequuntur eos— Robertus Radclif, Miles, Comes Sussexias, Vicecomes Fitzwalter—Baro de Egremond et de Burned) Eques auratus praenobilis ordinis Garterij, magnus Camerarius Anglia), et Camerarius Hospitii magni Henrici Regis Octavi, ac eidem e consiliis privatis—Praeliis in Gallia commissis, aliquoties inter primos ductores honoratus.—In aliis belli pacisque consultationibus, non inter postremos habitus riEquitatis, justitias, constantias, magnum astate sua columen.—Obiit 27 die Novemb. anno Domini 1542, astatis sum.Sepultusque primo Londini, inde corpus hue translatum ultima voluntate Thomas Comitis Sussexias, nepotis sui:— /'Elizab. sororem Hen. Ducis Buckinghamii. Conjuges habuit . . . .< Marg. sororem Comitis Darbei. { Mariam, sororem J s . Arundel, Equ. ( Georgius, patre vivente mortuus. Elizabethas filii . . . .< Henricus, prox. Comes Sussexim. \ Humfreius, Miles. Margarets Alias ... A Arala ’ nu P ta Domino Wharton. I Margareta, nupta Domino Montacute. Marise filius. Johannes Radclif, Miles. 2. Post mortem erit judicium, ac nomina justorum manifestabuntur, et improborum opera patebunt. Henricus Radclif, Comes Sussexise, Vicecomes Fitzwalter, Baro de Egremond et de Bumel, Eques Auratus prasnobilis Ordinis Garterij, Capitalis Justitiarius, et Justitiarius itinerans omnium Forestarum, Parcorum, Chacearum, et Warrenarum regias Majestatis citra Trentam, Locum tenens Norfolcias et Suffolcias, et Capitaneus generalis Exercitus Reginas Marias, quo ipsam e turaultu regni auspicandi vindicavit.—Prasliis in Gallia confectis, ac aliis Legationibus ibidem habitis, cum nobilium Principibus aliquoties honoratus.—In aliis belli pacisque negotiationibus inter primarios habitus Magnum constantias, religionis, fideique testimonium, praecipue sub mortem, exhibuit. Obiit 5 die February, anno Domini 1556, mtatis suas.Sepultusque primo Londini, inde corpus hue translatum ultima voluntate Thomas Comitis Sussexias, filii sui. Conjuges habuit . . . S m&ah - filiam Th o. Ducis Norfolcias. I Annam, filiam Phil. Caltrop, Equestris. 3. Pretiosa in conspectu Domini mors justorum. Thomas Radclif, Miles, Comes Sussexias, Vicecomes Fitzwalter, Baro de Egremond et de Burnel, Eques Auratus prasnobilis Ordinis Gartem, capitalis Justitiarius omnium Forestarum, Parcorum, Chacearum, Warenarum regia; Majestatis citra Trentam, Capitaneus generosorum Pencionariorum et generosorum ad arma— BOREHAM. 31 Camerarius Hospitii Reginae Elisabethse, et e Consiliis privatis—Duas amplissimas legationes Reginae Mari® ad Imperatorem Carolum Quintum, et Regem Hispaniae, tertiamque serenissimae Reginae Elisabethae ad Imperatorem Maximilianum obivit—Prorex Hibemiae, ipsam per annos novem subjugatis rebellibus pacavit, Scotiamque ipsis adhaerentem spoliavit—Praeses borialis Provin. Angliae, Perduelles profligavit—Scotiamque ipsis faventem, multis Castellis captis diru- tisque, iterum vastavit—Magno Henrico Regi Octavo, heroicae et ipsius Progeniei propaganda? semper fidelissimus—Invictus animo; semper Belloque fortis et felix: Pace Consiliarius pru- dentissimus—Linguarum varietate facmidus, vitae inculpatae, etc. Obiit 9 die Junii, Anno Domini 1583, aetatis 57. , CElisab. filiam Tho. Comitis Southampt. Coniuges habuit A . . ( r ranciscam, nliam Gulielmi Sidnei, Equitis. Unica filia ex priore uxore prima infantia mortua. Haeredem reliquit fratrem Henricum, proximum Comitem Sussexias. Not the least singular part of the history of this monument is, that the particulars of its cost, and the name of its sculptor, are known and recorded; circumstances which have rarely been noticed, even in the cases of the most gorgeous and expensive. For this we are indebted to Mr. Walpole, who in his “ Anecdotes of Painting,” Vol. 1st, p. 272 , relates the following particulars :— “ The contract for the tomb of this great peer, Thomas Radcliffe, Earl of Sussex, Lord Chamberlain to the Queen, and a signal antagonist of Leicester, is still extant. He bequeathed £1500 to be expended on it; and his executors, Sir Christopher Wray, Lord Chief Justice of her Majesty’s Bench; Sir Gilbert Gerard, Master of the Rolls; Sir Thomas Mildmay and others, agreed with Richard Stevens for the making and setting it up in Boreham Church, where it still remains. The whole charge paid to Stevens for his part of the work was £292 125. 8c?.”. “ Richard Stevens was a Dutchman, and no common artist. He was a statuary, painter, and medallist. The figures on Lord Sussex’s tomb were his work, and in a good style.” Whatever were the merits of Stevens as a painter and a medallist, I have had no opportunity to judge, but I doubt if the execution of the figures in question will hear out the encomiums bestowed by Mr. Walpole on Stevens as a sculptor. In¬ deed, I have reasons to believe that Mr. W. never saw the tomb, as he describes it as having been placed in a village church in the county of Suffolk, and not in Essex, which is its true situation. We may next notice a very ancient gravestone, now broken, and lying in the churchyard, though its original situation was within the walls of the church. By the inscription, which was preserved by the care of the present vicar, it appears to have 32 SUCKLING PAPERS. been placed over the body of Henry Le Merchant, a member of a family anciently seated at the adjoining village of Hatfield Peverell, which at that time possessed no church. Henri Le Marchaunt cist ici, Deu de s: salma ayt marci. Qui pour le priera— Graunt pardoun avera. We will now close this account of Boreham Church by noticing the modern me¬ morials. 1. On the floor of the nave lies a small brass effigy of a female and her family, with inscriptions recording the quality of the deceased, and the period of her de¬ parture. There is nothing remarkable either in the design or execution of this me¬ morial, whose date is as low as 1573. « Here lyeth the body of Alse Byng, thewyfe of Thomas Bynge of Canterbury in the county of Kent, and mother to Isaac Byng Cytezen and Stacioner of London, and late wyfe to James Canceller, some tyme one of y e gentlemen of the Queenes honourable chappie, w oh Alse departed this worlde to the mcy of God, y e 16th of Apryll, 1573.” At the feet of the children are these verses :— We sixe hir chyldren derely bought, by fygure doe present Our wofull harts for losse (of friende) of this our mother dere, But nothing will yt sure prevente, although we do lament, Yet nature doth procure the same, for this our mother here. Which never thought these things to much w ch on us she hath spent, Then blame us not, great cause we have her death for to lament. 2. In memory of Jane the beloved wife of Tho. Wallace, Dr. in Physick, second daughter of the truly Rev. Job Marple, some time vicar of this church, who departed this life the 15th of February, 1735-6, aged 43. BOREHAM. 33 •3. Sacred to the memory of Dame Sarah, the wife of Sir John Tyrell, of Boreham House, in this parish, Baronet, and only child and heiress of William Tyssen, Esq re , of Cheshunt, Herts., obt. 19th of December, 1825, setat. 62. TIIE ARMS OF SIR JOHN TYRELL. 4. Sacred to the memory of Charlotte, the beloved wife of Robert Clerke Haselfoot, Esq ,e , of this parish, who, after a very painful illness, died on the third of April, 1826. 5. Elizabeth Harrington died Feb. 8, 1768, set. 27. TYSSEN. 6. In the vault, north side of the chancel, are deposited the remains of Mrs. Mary Tyssen, widow of William Tyssen, Esq re , of Cheshunt, Herts. She died the 21st of March, 1805, aged 65 years. To perpetuate the memory of the best of mothers, this monument was erected by her only child, Sarah, the wife of John Tyrell, Esq re , of Boreham House. F SUCKLING PAPERS. 34 7. Here lieth the body of the Rev d . Thomas Butterfield, B.A., of Trin. Coll., Cambridge, and vicar of this parish sixteen years, who departed this life the *23rd of December, 1766, aged 53. Also the body of Mary his daughter, and wife of the Rev d . Samuel Bennett, who died 23rd April, 1775, aged 27. Also, the body of Mary his wife, who died 3rd of August, 1780, aged 62. 8. To the memory of Charles Frederick, eldest son of the late Reverend Charles Frederick Bond, vicar of Margaretting, in this county. He died 2nd day of October, 1829, in the 28th year of Iris age. 9. Sacred to the memory of the most beloved Ann Rishton Ray, the betrothed wife of John Rannie, Esq re , and eldest daughter of the Rev d . William Carpenter Ray, vicar of this parish. Pious without ostentation, exemplary in all the relations of life, she lived endeared, respected, and most lamented: died on the 10th day of July, 1831, aged 33 years. 10. Near this place are deposited the remains of Anne Rishton Ray, wife of the Reverend William Carpenter Ray, vicar of this parish: she died the 31st day of January, 1811, aged 37 years. Also, the remains of two of their children, Arabella Carpenter Ray, and Lucy Ramsden Ray, who died in their infancy. Also the remains of their third daughter, Arabella Carpenter Ray, who died the 14th day of August, 1823, aged 14 years. 11. Sacred to the memory of William Hinde, whose remains are deposited near this place. He died the 21st of September, 1819, aged 35 years. In the old chancel are some floor-stones to the memory of the Corselleis family. NEW HALL. If we are struck with surprise at the extent of this spacious mansion, our wonder will be excited when we learn that it formed a tenth part only of the original struc¬ ture—a mere fragment of a more prodigious pile—which, like that at Audley End, in the same county, has been reduced at various periods, to suit the declining fortunes of its different owners. The entire house of New Hall consisted of two quadrangles, inclosing very extensive courts, and furnished with suitable offices. The manor, which is attached to this residence, was held at an early period by the Abbey of Waltham, and became subsequently the property of several branches of the royal family, and many noble possessors ; but it is generally supposed that the date of the present edifice does not reach higher than the reign of Henry the Seventh, when Thomas Butler, of the Ormond Family, was presented by that monarch with the manor and estate of New Hall, and obtained a licence to embattle his residence with walls and towers. By his female heir it became the property of Sir Thomas Boleyn, father to Queen Anne Boleyn ; and in 1517 we find it in the possession of Henry the NEW HALL. 35 Eighth, who, adding to the first erection, made it a royal residence, and celebrated the feast of Saint George within its noble halls with great magnificence in 1524. His eldest daughter Mary lived here several years; and by Queen Elizabeth it was bestowed on Thomas Radcliffe, Earl of Sussex, in reward for his gallant achieve¬ ments. This nobleman erected the sumptuous altar tomb in the village church, (already noticed,) and dying in 1583, the estate and house of New Hall descended to his brothers, whose heirs, in 1620, sold it to Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, who was afterwards stabbed at Portsmouth, by Felton. This nobleman’s son being at¬ tainted by the Parliament for his loyalty to King Charles the First, this princely residence and park were purchased by Oliver Cromwell, the consideration money being five shillings, and the estimated value upwards of £13,000. It does not, however, appear that the usurper resided much at New Hall, as he seems to have quitted it for his more favourite abode of Hampton Court. Upon the restoration of Charles the Second, the celebrated General Monk ob¬ tained it, and lived here with much splendour for several years. His son’s widow remarrying, in l691> to Ralph, Duke of Montague, New Hall was deserted and suf¬ fered to fall into great dilapidation, hut was at last purchased by Benjamin Hoare, Esq., who, retaining the lordship, sold the house and park to John Olmius, Esq., afterwards Baron Waltham. By this nobleman it was reduced to its present dimen¬ sions. It is now, and has for several years past, been occupied as a nunnery by a community of females, who were driven by the French revolution and its disorderly occurrences from their retreat at Liege. The great hall, which is a truly magnificent apartment, being more than 90 feet in length, by 50 in breadth, and 40 in height, has by these ladies been fitted up as a chapel for the celebration of their religious ceremonies. Part of Henry the Eighth’s additions to this pile are yet existing, as over a door, leading from the back of the hall, are his arms cut in stone, supported by a dragon and a greyhound, regally crowned; while a hawk and a lion bear a scroll with this legend, “ Henricus Rex Octavus—Rex inclit. armis magnanimus—struxit hoc opus egregium.” Queen Elizabeth, too, seems to have exercised her taste in architecture on portions of this mansion, as over the entrance-door of the hall are to be seen her arms, and the following poetical inscription:— Vivat Elizabetha. En terra la piu savia regina En cielo la piu lucente Stella ; Virgine, magnanima, dotta, divina. Leggiadra, honesta et bella. F 2 36 SUCKLING PAPERS. MOUNTNESSING. Mountnessing acquired its name from the Norman family of Mounteney, who obtained possession of this lordship in the time of King Stephen, and retained it till the reign of Henry the Eighth. It is now held by Lord Petre. The church was early appropriated to the priory of Thoby, a religious establish¬ ment in this village, which enjoyed the patronage till its suppression, when the great tithes were conveyed into lay hands, and are the property of the family of Petre. It is a very small though a regular edifice, and may he referred to the age of Edward the First: its chancel is a barbarous modern erection of red brick, but its nave, lofty and of good proportions, is divided from its aisles by cylindrical columns supporting pointed arches. It is much to he regretted, however, that one arcade of this portion of the edifice has been cut off from the western end to form a tower, which, inclosing a framework of timber, bears aloft an ugly spire of shingles. The most remarkable features in this church are the capitals on the pillars which divide the nave from the north aisle. One in particular deserves notice, not only on account of the spirited exe¬ cution of the foliage, but for the very singular device of a human face carved in deep relief, having the mouth fettered by an iron bridle. Whether this conceit originated in any local occurrence, or whether it alludes to the words of the Psalmist, (Ps. xxxix.,) “ 1 wil1 kee P m y mouth as it were with a bridle, while the ungodly is in my sight,” the fancy of the reader must determine ; probably the latter. The columns on the south side are finished with plain moulded capitals. Im¬ mediately fronting the south door, which is now the usual entrance, stands a low and MOUNTNESSING. 37 plain octangular font, against which reclines a singular curiosity, namely, a fossil rib-hone of enormous proportions, measuring four feet and three quarters of an inch in a straight line from tip to tip. Village credulity ascribes this to some giant, a former inhabitant of Mountnessing, though the anatomist, with more discrimination, would refer it to the elephant, or perhaps the stupendous mammoth. It has occupied its present situation for a long series of years, though but little value seems attached to this relic of an antediluvian world. The north aisle appears to have been the family vault of the late possessors of I hoby Priory, and against its walls are the following memorials on marble slabs :— 1. In the vault beneath are deposited the remains of Mary, relict of Henry Blencowe, Esq r ., and sole heiress of Alexander Prescott, Esq r . of Thoby Priory, who died October the 20th, 1770, aged 54. Also, the remains of Maiy, only daughter of the above Henry and Mary Blencowe, who died March the 14th, 1822, aged 72. 2. Near this place lieth the body of Henry Blencowe, Esq r ., Councellor at Law. He was descended from Sir Henry Blencowe, of Blencowe, in the county of Cumberland, Knt., and SUCKLING PAPERS. married Mary, the only surviving daughter and heiress of Alexander Prescott, of Thoby Priory, Esq r ., by whom he left two children, viz., Henry and Mary. His afflicted widdow, in memory of his many excellent virtues as a husband, and a parent, and a friend, caus’d this monument to be erected. He died the 29 of April, 1765, in the 54th year of his age. 3. Near this place are deposited the remains of John Prescott, of Thoby, Esq r ., who departed this life the 19th of May, 1750, aged 39 years. Faith, Hope, and Charity, his constant friends, Did all his actions guide to noble ends; These virtues he from heaven drew down here, And they well pleased at length have rais’d him there. Moriendo vivo! 4. Near this place are deposited the remains of Henry Prescott Blencowe, Esq r ., late of Thoby Priory in this parish, who died the 9th day of February, 1787, in the 35th year of his age, leaving his widow, Mrs. Elizabeth Blencowe, and four children, viz., Henry Prescott, Elizabeth, John Prescott, and Margarett. On a floor-stone in the chancel is also an inscription to a member of the Prescott family. 5. Alexander Prescott, Esq 1- ., eldest son and heir of Alexander Prescott, of Thoby, Esq re , died the 18th of October, 1731, aged 22. He was of Emanuel College, Cambridge, and of the Temple, student; a person of an accomplished and sweet temper, and whose virtues and inno¬ cent life is an example to posterity. On a monument consigned to neglect, and thrown into a corner of the belfry, is this inscription:— 6. Header, this table represents y e pious state Of one whose soul to heaven was truly consecrate. Who from the turmoiles of this world confined By a distemper too severely kind; Just to all men, to God devout, Patient beyond or wrongs or gout: After a life in contemplation pass’d Was brought to that celestiall blisse at last, Which he by faith so firmly did possesse before, Vision alone could make him to enjoy it more. The disconsolate widdow of Edmond Pert, Gent., has erected this monument, sacred to the memory of her deceased husband, buried near this place. MOUNTNESSING. 39 7. 17 Decembris, 1583. Layde heere aloone all dedde in tooeme John Peers of Amollde Hall, Awaitheth for the daye of dooeme till Christe hym up shall call, Whose tyme nowe paste on earth well spente hath gotten him good name His honest lyfe and govermente deserved well the same God grawnte that his good dealyne may to us example be Of Mowntneysinge that rightelie saye an honest man was he. The above, in old English characters, is on a plain floor-stone in the chancel. Against the south wall of the aisle is the following:— 8. Sacred to the memory of Mrs. Sarah Bowskill, wife of the Rev d . W. W. Bowskill, vicar of this parish, who died May 7th, 1810, aged 64. Also, of William Westfield Bowskil, son of the above, who died April 27th, 1808, aged 28 ; and also of Miss Mary Whitewood, only daughter of Captain Sam 1 . Whitewood, and Sarah his wife, (late Mrs. Bowskil,) who died December 28th, 1828, aged 52. The following are benefactions to this parish :— “ 1. Endimion Canning, Esq r ., late of this parish, by will, May 24, 1681, be¬ queathed to the churchwardens and overseers and principal inhabitants of this parish and their successors, in trust, a field for the use of the poor of this parish for ever, known by the name of Ryer’s Field, now let for £23 per annum, Sept. 4, 1807- “ 2. A donation of Mrs. Amy English, the only daughter and heiress of Richard Bayley, Esq r0 , deceased, bearing date the 5th day of October, 1787* * n pursuance of the charitable intentions of the said Richard Bayley, expressed and declared in his lifetime to the said Amy English, his daughter, upon trust, of a farm and lands in Mountnessing, called Pinchions, containing 13 ac. : 0 : 39; and a messuage and lands also in Mountnessing, parcel of a farm called Sawbriglets and Shimmius, con¬ taining 4 ac. : 2 : 17 , at the yearly rent of £30, to apply the yearly rents and profits thereof for teaching and instructing as many poor children belonging to or residing in the said parish of Mountnessing, in reading and in the principles of the Christian religion, and such of them as should be girls in sewing and knitting; and for provid¬ ing such children with other necessaries.” 40 SUCKLING PAPERS. THOBY PRIORY, Founded in the reign of King Stephen, and so called from the name of its first Prior, Tobias or Toby, owes its origin to the piety or perhaps to the superstitious terrors of the family of De Capra; Michael de Capra, Roesia his wife, and William, their son, uniting their joint influence and wealth to further its establishment. The precise era of this event is not satisfactorily ascertained, though there is evidence to prove that it must have taken place between the years 1141 and 1151. Being dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Leonard, it was filled with monks of the Order of Saint Augustine. Though considerable portions of this monastery are incorporated into the present residence, still called Thoby Priory, and though some fragments of the conventual church yet remain, no vestige of the original structure, as finished by De Capra, can at the present era be detected. And when we consider how greatly the first foundation of this building preceded the introduction of the more elegant architecture of a subsequent period, no surprise can exist on this score. The passion for re-edifying all churches in the new style, which prevailed so undisguisedly in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, could scarcely be excluded the walls of Thoby ; accordingly, we find the circular shaft and pointed arch of our first Edward’s reign, prevailing in the remains of the conventual church; the arch being marked by a deep indenture, received at its union with that of the next by a projecting escocheon. 1 he entire plan of this monastery is very easily traced, as the area appears to have been undisturbed since the first destruction took place, at the dissolution of religious houses. On the south side of the square stood the church, comprising a nave with THOBY PRIORY. 41 a south aisle at least, and probably a north aisle also on the opposite wing, and a chancel of lofty proportions without those additions. Of this structure the only por¬ tion standing is represented in the annexed sketch, which shows the south window of the chancel, and the first arch and its columns of the southern arcade of the nave. North of this structure was the cloister, and on the west were the prior’s lodge, and the monks’ refectory—of which latter apartment the greater part remains—still a lofty and noble room, though much disfigured by the introduction of sash windows and a modern ceiling of plaster, through which the principals of the ancient roof are seen, as if endeavouring to peep from out their unworthy concealment. Careful digging about the church and cloisters would, without doubt, amply repay the trouble and expense attending it, by the discovery of many specimens of ancient curiosity and art; and indeed chance has already developed several fragments of high anti¬ quity and interest. Among these may be reckoned the lower portion of a Knight Templar, found beneath the garden mould which now covers the south aisle of the conventual church, and preserved with laudable care hv Mr. Grant, the present occu¬ pier of Thoby. This relic was much fractured by the spades of the workmen who dug it from its place of concealment, and it is irremediably injured. I entertain hut little doubt that the upper part of this figure might be recovered by further search. It would he idle to urge any thing beyond conjecture as to the personage intended to be commemorated by this expensive tomb. The family of Mounteney, we know, possessed the manor of this village during crusading times, and that of De Capra or Capel were patrons of Thoby. To a knight of one or other of these houses, and most probably of the latter, it was in all likelihood consecrated. There is nothing remarkable in any portion of this frag¬ ment. The style of the armour, the recumbent lion, and the folds of the drapery ex¬ hibit the patterns usually seen on similar monuments ; but the material employed is somewhat singular, being a composition of plaster moulded on an iron frame. At the north-west angle of the cloisters have likewise recently been disinterred six coffins lying in line, and close by each other, of very unusual construction. A drawing of one, which is still kept above ground for its curiosity, is here given, G 42 SUCKLING PAPERS. and will materially assist the description. A portion of an oak tree, it would appear, was first sawn off from the hole, of the requisite length, when a coffin of this description was wanted; a slab was then separated lengthwise of about the thick¬ ness of one third of the diameter of the tree, which served afterwards as a lid ; the thicker portion was then scooped out in the form usually seen in sarcophagi, and then charred; when, the corpse being placed within, the severed plank or lid was re¬ united and fastened to the coffin by four pegs of wood, the holes for which may he observed at the corners. So little finish was bestowed on these receptacles of mor¬ tality that the bark may in places he still discerned; and however rude they may ap¬ pear, we must yet regard them as constructed for persons of some degree of conse¬ quence, as the bodies of those of inferior condition were committed to the earth in a simple covering of waxed cloth, a practice which continued to be observed as late as the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Two coffins only, out of the six discovered, were disturbed; these, on being opened, contained perfect skeletons of females, which were reinterred within the area of the burial ground. So sound was the timber, notwithstanding the length of time it had remained beneath the soil, that Mr. Grant has had several boxes and ornaments formed out of one of them, which admit of an exceedingly high degree of polish, and retain the distinctive marks of the grain. A few very small knives with bone or ivory handles, and some coins of a late era, may likewise be mentioned as having also been discovered within the precincts of Thoby Priory ; nor should I omit noticing some specimens of ornamental floor tiles which were found in the chancel: they are baked with earth of two colours, of which the ground was a dull red, and the figures a light brown. Those in Mr. Grant’s possession bear the forms of rabbits, stags, and other animals ; and I feel convinced, so little has curiosity been gratified here, that the principal antiquarian treasures of this “ fallen pile ” remain to be developed at a future day. The seal of this abbey is attached to a deed dated the 11 th of Edward II., now in the Augmentation Office, and the legend may be read thus: sigillvm : sancti : LEONARDI : DE : TOBI. As Thoby was valued at only £75 65 . 10 \d. per annum, it became one of those establishments “ devoured (as Fuller quaintly observes) without producing a sacri¬ legious surfeit” by Cardinal Wolsey, to whose use it was surrendered in 1525. That ecclesiastic’s disgrace, however, brought it, with the rest of his prodigious wealth, into his master’s hands, who, on the general dissolution of religious houses, which soon after followed, granted it in 1530 to Sir Richard Page, Knt., and the reversion in 1539 to William Berners, Esq., and Dorothy his wife. It has lately THOBY PRIORY. 43 been possessed by the family of Prescott, and passed, a few years since, by a female heir in marriage to that of JBlencowe, who are its present possessors. From an examination of the subjoined documents, it will appear that the Priory of Thoby held, in addition to the advowson and great tithes of the entire parish of Mountnessing, about four hundred and ninety-seven acres of land, and rather more than thirty-seven acres of copyhold held of the manor of Thoby, and as it seems under arbitrary fines. It is perhaps impossible to ascertain, at the precise moment, the value of the tithes and copyholds; but as the whole property was only fixed at £ 7 5 6s. 10 \d. per annum, we may, I think, infer that the land was let or valued at not more than two shillings per acre, taking wood-land, meadow and arable, all round, which would have pro¬ duced about £50 per annum of rent. The copyholds and the great tithes of the entire parish must surely have amounted to the remaining £25 65 . 10 \d .—a very striking but correct proof of the difference in the value of landed property between the early parts of the sixteenth and the nineteenth centuries. This difference will appear yet more surprising when I observe, that the lands of Thoby, like those of all monastic houses, were the richest in the neighbourhood; and that the monks were the best farmers of their day, I have demonstrated in a preceding volume. Inter Recorda in Thesaurario Curiae Receptae Saccarij adservata, (viz.) in Libro vocat. “ Extents of Monastries,” continetur ut sequitur:— THE MANOR OF THOBY WITH THE CUSTUMES BELONGYNG TO THE SAME. First, the Manor their haith a Court Baron to be holden de trfiq septimanis in tres, if the Lord will. Item, to the same Manor belong as well freholders & Copieholders as tenants at will, or for tme of yere. Item, every of the foresaide Tenants shall sue to the Court, upon the peyn of amciament. Item, every Copieholder shall fyne for his Lord at every deth or alienacon as the Lord and he can agree. Item, neither Copieholder, Tenant at will, or for terme of yeir, shall make no waist upon peyn of fforfeyture of their tenure. Item, every tenant shall pay his rent at 11 tymes in the yere, that is to say, at Eister and Michelmas. Item, to the same Mano r belongeth & apperteyneth thadvowson or pronage of the Churche of Engemountney, wherof the Colledge ben psons in psonys, & a Vicar there suffi¬ ciently indued. G 2 44 SUCKLING PAPERS. THE DEMAYNES OF THE MANO* OF THOBYE. Thoby.—Ffurst, the place, the Churche and Churche yarde, the Orcharde, Gardeyn, ^ arde and utter Houses, with the pondes lyinge betweene Postonfelde ande Bamefelde onne the West parte, and two crofts lyinge next the place, with pondes therein ande Longeponde on the Est parte and butteythe uppon Hoggeyn grove, and a wey ledinge to the place towarde the South ande uppon postonfelde foresayde towarde the north, & conteyneth.x acr. i roade. Woodlande.—Item, a grove called Hogingrove, lyinge betweene the Orcharde of Thobye ande a grove called firegrove onne the north parte, ande a felde called Wellefelde onne the South parte, and butteyh uppon a waye ledinge to the place onne the West parte and Bryk- kylfelde towarde the east, and conteyneth.xvij ac. dim. Item, a felde called Mellesfelde, lyinge betwene a Lane leding to the place of Thoby onne the South parte, and landes called Cokks onne the north, and butteith uppon the Bangs hie waye ledinge from Chelmes forde to London towarde the East, ande Hogingrove towarde the West, ande conteyneth.l xv i ac - di. Item, A nother felde called the twentye acres, lyinge betwene Pourys & the lands of Maister Ayluff, toward the Est; ande a felde called Wellesfelde on the west, ande butteyth uppon Kyrkyl- felde towarde the north, ande the lands of-Bawdewyn towarde the Southe, ande conteyneth xxviij ac. di. i roade. Medowe.—Item, a Medowe called Cokks medowe, lyinge betwene Mellefelde on the West parte, ande longekokks on the Est parte, and butteyth uppon Mellefelde towarde the North and the Kyngs hye waye towarde the South, & conteyneth.xii ac. di. Item, a Felde callede Brykylfelde, lyinge betwene Hogingrove onn the North ande a felde called twenty Acres on the Southe, butting upon the too Hoppytts towarde the Est, ande the Lane ledinge from Hogingrove to the Hoppetts foresayde towarde the West, and conteyneth iiij ac. i ro. di. Item, too littell Hoppetts, soo calleyde, lyinge together betweene fregrove and Brykylfelde onne the West parte, and a pece of land belonging to Lennards & pours onne the Est parte, and butteyth uppon panmede towarde the North, ande the felde called twentye acres toward the South, ande conteyneth.ij ac. di. di ro . Woodde Land.—Item, a Groove called firegrove, lyinge betwene the onn Hoppett ande panmede onne the Est parte, a felde called --, with two poundes therin next the place ande Postonfelde onne the West, and butteyth uppon Hogingrove and a Lane ledinge to the Hoppetts onne the South, ande Rayshotte ande Postonfelde towarde the North, and conteyneth xiiij acres. Item, a felde callede ———, lyinge betwene Fregrove onne the Est parte ande the Orcharde theare onne the West parte, and butteyth uppon a grove called Hogingrove towarde the Southe ande uppon Postonfelde towarde the north, ande conteyneth .... iiij ac. di. xvi perches. Item, A nother felde called Postonfelde, lyinge betwene Raysholte and fregrove onne the Est parte ande the greate Wode called Thoby Woode and the Woode of Blakaune onne the West parte, buttinge uppon Whyts crofts towarde the northe, ande upon a felde callede Burne- felde, the Orcharde & the Pitell with two poundes therin foresayede toward the South, ande conteyneth.lxi ac. di. THOBY PRIORY. 45 Item, A nother felde callede Rayshotte, lyinge betwene a felde called Postonfelde onne the West parte ande Redewodes ande Panmede onne the Est parte, ande butteyth uppon free wode towarde the Southe ande Whyts crofte toward the north, & conteyneth . . . xxx acres, di. Medowe.—Item, a medowe called panmede, lyinge betwene Cristemas Croft and landes called Leonardes Landes on the Est, ande Rayshotte ande Fregrove onne the West, ande butteyth on Hoppetts towarde the South ande Rayshotte foresayede towarde the north, & conteyneth ij ac. di. di. roade. Item, thre Crofts with cartayne Hedgerowes called Whyth crofts lying to gether betwene Rayshotte onn the Est parte and a woode, Blakemore Woode onne the West parte, buttinge uppon Postonfelde towarde the Southe, ande uppon landes called Woodberne lande, Burgeys lande and Fynches toward the north, and conteyneth.. . xiij acres. Item, a Felde called Bamefelde, lyinge betwene a waye ledinge to the greate Woode theare onn the South and Postonfelde on the north, ande butteyth uppon the bamyarde and the Orcharde toward the Est, ande the sayede greate Woode towarde the West, & conteyneth vij ac. i di. roade. Woode-lande.—Item, The greate Woode of Thoby, lyinge betwene Postonfelde ande Bame¬ felde onne the Est parte, ande Hokys onne the Weste parte, ande butteyth upon a felde calleyde Knyghts felde towarde the South, ande a Woode called Blakemore Woode toward the north, & conteyneth.xxix acres. Item, a felde called Hokys, lyinge betwene the greate Woode of Thobye onn the Est part ande Themers ande Blakemore Woode onn the west parte, and butteyth uppon Knyghts felde and the Chemers toward the South, ande Blakemore Woode foresayde towarde the north, & con¬ teyneth .xxv ac. Item, a felde callede Knyghts felde, lyinge betwene the Lane leding from Mountenessinge to Blakemore onne the south, ande Hokys the greate woode of Thoby & the lane ledinge to the sayde woode onn the North part, & butteyth uppon a lane ledinge from the late Pryorye of Thobye to London hie way toward the Est, & Chemers & Barnewelle towarde the west, & con¬ teyneth.lxvij ac. di. LANDES LETTEYN BY ANDENTURE. Furst, John Cooke holdeyth by Indenture a Hallehous with the yarde and out howsinge called Wascatts, lyinge betwene the Smythys forge, the Orcharde ande the mede, sometyme pethys onn the West parte ande a pece of lande called Tynte onn Est parte, & butteyth upon the Kyngs hye way toward the Sbuth, ande a Medewe calleyde Brodesmede toward the north, and conteyneth.•.oon acre. Di. Item, A mede called Brodesmede in the teanure of the sayde John, lyinge betwene Wascatts & Tynts on the south parte, ande a Pasture called Brodys Pasture onne the north, ande butteyth uppon Peches mede towarde the west, ande the landes of Thomas Malbroke towarde the Est, & conteyneth.ij ac. i roode. Item, a Pastime called Brods pasture, in the teanure of the said John, lyinge betwene- on the west parte, ande Yms landes ande Bedwells Gardeyn towarde the Est, & butteyth upon mmmammmammmmmm 46 SUCKLING PAPERS. Brods mede toward the south, and a lane called Capellane toward the north, ande conteyneth xiij acres. Item, a felde called Romefelde, lyinge betwene a lane ledynge towarde Blakemore ande landes called Newlande onn the North parte, ande Parkefelde towarde the south, ande butteyth uppon Roundemede towarde the Est, and Newlande foresayde toward the west, & conteyneth xiij ac. di. i rode. Item, a Croft calleyde Skypyscroft, in the teanure of the sayede John, lyinge betwene the landes of Stonage onne the south, ande Lamboums gardeyn place on the north, ande butteyth uppon a lane ledinge to Blakemore towarde the Est, ande a mede calleyede Roundesmede to¬ warde the west, & conteyneth.one acre. Di. Item, a Medowe calleyede Roundemede, in the teanure of the sayede John, lyinge betwene the Landes of John Wiseman, callede the-onne the south parte, ande a Felde called Rome¬ felde onne the North parte, and butteythe uppon Styppescroft & Lamboras gardeyn toward the Est, and Wisemans foresayde toward the West, & conteyneth.ii acr. di. Item, a Croft callede London Croft, in the teanure of the same John, lyinge betwene Malles- felde onne the North parte & the Horsewaye ledinge to Blakemore onn the South, and butteyth upon the same way toward the west, & the landes of John Wiseman, somtym of- Gaynes- forde called Takeley toward the Est, and conteyneth.ij acres. Item, a Felde withe a Orcharde called Dolingtons, in the teanure of the said John, lying be¬ twene a lane ledinge to fewwaters onne the west part, and the Lane leadinge toward Blakemore & partley landes called Newlands on the Est parte, & butteyth uppon the sayed wey leading to Blakemore towarde the North & Newland toward the South, & conteyneth . . iij ac. i rode. Item, A Medowe called Romemede, lyinge betwene the lande of John Wiseman called Takeleys onne the South parte, ande the landes of Maister Culpepur onn the North, & butteyth upon Romefeld toward the Est, & the landes of Maister Culpepur & a mede called Rutters mede towarde the West, & conteyneth.y acr. di. Item, a nother medowe called Rutters mede, lying betweyne Rutersfelde on the South and the landes of Maister Culpepur onne the North, butting upon a Medowe called Clerksmede to¬ ward the west, and Romemede toward the Est, & conteying.i acre. di. Item, a Felde conteyning three littell Crofts, lyinge betwene the landes of Thomas Peper none the west and the landes of John Wiseman on the Est, and butteyth upon London Waye & partley upon Hongerdowne toward the South & Ruttersmede toward the north, & conteyneth y ac. di. i rode. Item, Thomas Malbroke holdeyth by Indenture a Felde conteyning three littill pieces called Tyntts, lying betwene the lande late in the teanure of Jynnys & parteley a Gardeyn, somtyme of Thomas Cosyn on the Est parte, & Wiscatts on the West parte, & butteyth upon London waye toward the south, & Brodesmede & partley upon Brodesfelde toward the north, & con¬ teyneth .iij acres. Item, William Compar holdeyth by Indenture a Felde called Mollande, lyinge betwene a way ledinge to Mountenesynge halle onne the south, and the landes of Thomas Heron onne the North, and butteyth upon a croft callede Defehousse croft towarde the West, and the landes of the sayd Thomas Heron, & a Felde callede Pasys toward the Est, & conteyneth . xlvij ac. di. THOBY PRIORY. 47 Item, John Smyth holdeyth by Indenture a House called Nossells, with Yards, Gardeyns, Oichardes and out Housings belonging to the sayede House, lyinge betwene Nossells mede on the South, & a lane ledinge to-toward the North, & butteyth upon the sayede mede toward est, & upon a grene lyinge before the gate of the s d Howse toward the west, and conteyneth Di. acre vi perches. Item, a Medowe called Nossells mede, in the teanure of the sayede John Smyth, lyinge be¬ twene the Downe on the Est ande the Orcharde belonginge to the same Howse, ande parteleye the landes of Rycharde Whyte onne the west, & butteyth uppon a Croft called Parcroft toward the South, and a lane ledinge to the Downe & partelye upon Nossells place towarde the North, & conteyneth.iiij acres di. Item, a felde callede the Downe, in the teanure of the same John, lyinge betwene a Woode called Hallewoode towarde the south and south hose on north, ande butteyth upon a medowe called Nossells mede toward the West, & a felde called Donynge toward the Est, & conteyneth ix ac. di. i rode. Item, a Felde callede Donyngs, lyinge betwene ynge Halwoode on the South, ande Hoton Hollande onne the Northe, & butteyth upon a felde called the Downefelde towarde the West, ande Stonyhill towarde the Est, ande conteyneth.xv acres. Item, Stonyhill, in the teanure of the same John Smyth, lyinge betwene Yngehallewoode on the South, and Hutton Hallonde on the north, ande butteyth upon Donynges towarde the west, ande Hutton Halstonhille towarde the Est, & conteyneth.iiij acres. Item, a felde called the Redon, lyinge betwene a lane called Redenlane on the Est, ande Yngrave hollande on the west, ande butteyth upon Hutton Hollande ande parteley onne the lands of Richard Whyte toward the North, & Hollande toward the South, ande conteyneth ix ac. di. i rode di. Item, a Felde called Taylours in the teanure of the same John, lyinge betwene the landes of Richard Whyte ande parteley a croft called parkecrofte on the est, ande a lane called Redeyn land on the West, and butteyth upon landes called the Chappell landes of Brentwode toward the south, ande the lane ledinge from Nossells to Redow toward the north, & conteyneth ix ac. di. i rode. LANDES LETTEN BY COPYE. Ffurst, Thomas Heron holdeth by Copye a felde called Skyms, lyinge betwene a felde called upper Brodeflelde on the south, and Hulbushe ande Rogers landes on the North, & butteyth upon a lane called Wryers lane towarde the Est, & upon parcell of Brodesfelde foresayde toward the West, ande conteyneth.. x ac. i rode. Item, the same Thomas holdeyth by copye a Felde called-, lyinge betwene Colchesters landes on the South, and the landes of John Shorday & Hulbushe toward the north, and butteyth upon Wryers lane toward the Est, & Colchesters lande ande parteley upon the landes of Wyllyam Ayloff towarde the West, and conteyneth.viij ac. di. Item, John Shorday, thelder, holdeyth by copye a felde called --, lyinge in three parcells, with a saferne gardeyn called Hogdennys, lyinge betwene the hie waye leding to London on the 48 SUCKLING PAPERS. Est parte, ande Takeleys on the West, & butteyth upon the landes of John Wiseman toward the South, and a Reyv leding to Mountenessingehalle toward the North, conteyninge v ac. di. i. rode vij per. Item, John Wiseman holdeyth by Copye a Felde called Takeleys londe, lyinge betwene Shordeys lande called Huddus on the east ande Rememede onne the West, ande butteyth upon the landes of John Wiseman toward the South, and Rondmede & the Ryver ledinge to Mounte- nessinge toward the north, conteyninge.iiij ac. di. Item, The same John holdeyth by Copye too crofts ande amedewe called Stonage, lyinge be- tweene the hye waye to Londe onne the Est, ande Skypescroft & Romesmede on the West, & butteyth upon the lane ledinge to Blakemore towarde the north, & on the river ledinge to Mount- nessing Hall toward the south, and conteyneth.iiij acres. Item, William Lambome holdeth by copye a gardeyn called Lambornes gardeyn, lyinge betwene Stonage onne the South and Romefelde on the North, & butteyth upon lanestrete & Blakemore towarde the Est, & a medewe called Roundesmede towarde the west, & conteynethe di. rode. Item, Robert Brette holdeyth by Copye a Tenement with a pytell callede Rutters, lying be- tweene a lane ledinge to Thobye on the Est part, & a lane callede Capellane on the West, & butteyth upon the Lands of John Wiseman towarde the North, & a lane ledinge from Thobye foresayde to London towarde the South, conteyinge.di. acre. Item, Wyllyam Malbroke, now deceasede, holdeyth by copye too crofte of lande callede Whyte Jaks, lyinge betwene the landes of Thomas Heron on the Est & landes callede Col- chesters land onne the west, & butteyth upon a lane callede depe Alnys toward the South, & conteyneth.iij ac. di. i rode di. Item, Willyam Ayluff holdeyth by copye vi croftes of lande called Chanfehope & Hoks, lieng betwixte long Coks, and xx acres (south), & Braynewodds grove (north), abutt upon the hygh waye to London toward the este, and upon gret powes toward the west, cont. x ac. ii perches. SPRINGFIELD. At Springfield church we have a nave and chancel only, of nearly equal width, though the broken angles at the north side of the former evince that an aisle origin¬ ally extended the length of this portion of the edifice ; its fragments deserve atten¬ tion, as being composed of pebbles and fractured pieces of brick, which much re¬ semble Roman manufacture. The tower is square, built of the same materials as the body of the church, and probably at the same period, though the upper part being finished with red brick, points to a subsequent repair, which an inscription just beneath the battlements, on the south side, records in the following words :— Prayse God for al the good Benefectors, Ano 1586. Armorial Bearings in Springfield Church, Essex. The three central shields in a south window. Published by John Weale, 59 High Holborn, London.1844. SPRINGFIELD. 49 The chancel contains some very elegant windows of king Edward the First’s period, finished with interior columns and water-labels; the latter terminated with those spirited busts so usual at that time, and which the sculpture of several suc¬ ceeding ages vainly imitated. A large square-headed window of Henry the Eighth’s style of architecture, in¬ serted into the south wall of the chancel, contains three shields of armorial bear¬ ings, and which are represented in the opposite drawing as nearly as the brilliant tints of stained glass will permit. The other arms are attached to various monu¬ mental records in the church. MONUMENTS. 1. To the memory of Thomas Brograve, Esq re , who departed this life the 19th of December, 1810, aged 83 years, universally beloved and respected. His remains are interred in a vault underneath the family pew in this church. Thomas Brograve purchased Springfield Place in 1781; was the second son of Thomas Brograve, Esq re , of the county of Norfolk, and Juliana his wife, eldest daughter of John Bemey, Esq r , late of Westwood and Worstead in the same county. In the vault are also interred the remains of Mrs. Ann Brograve, sister of the above, who departed this life the 5th of June, 1820, aged 83, justly esteemed and regretted by all who knew her. 2. Sacred to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Strutt, widow of Mr. Thomas Strutt, who was a freeholder of this parish. Four of their infant children having been buried in this churchyard, she was by her own particular desire interred in the same ground. Two sons survived her; the eldest of whom, John, was buried by his own desire with his daughter and two sons in the ground of the Broadway Chapel, Westminster. He left a widow, who, wishing to fulfil the intention of him whom she survived, and as a memorial of her own long cherished affection and respect, caused this monument to be erected. 3. Sacred to the memory of Charles Gretton, Esq r ., late Major of the West Essex Militia, and one of his Majesty’s Deputy Lieutenants for this County; second son of the late Rev d . Charles Gretton, Rector of this parish, who died on the 13th of May, 1826, in the 71st year of his age, much regretted. And also, Mary, his wife, who died on the 2nd of March, 1829, in the 85th year of her age. 4. In a vault beneath this place repose the remains of Anne, wife of the Rev d . Phillips Gretton, D.D., ob. July 29th, 1733, at. 47. Also, the Rev d . Phillips Gretton, Rector of this parish, obt. Feb. 16th, 1744, set. 67. Likewise, Thomas, son of Charles Gretton, citizen of London, obt. October 18th, 1744, set. 53. The Rev d . Henry Gretton, A.B., Rector of this parish, caused this monument to be erected, a.d. 1786. (The entrance into the vault is under the vestry window.) 5. In the vault in the vestry are deposited the remains of the Rev d . Henry Gretton, B.A., 28 years Rector of this parish, and formerly of Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, whose humanity and urbanity of manners will be long remembered, died 20th Dec 1- , a.d. 1811, aged 60 years. He gave the Altar piece. H 50 SUCKLING PAPERS. 6. Sacred to the memory of Juliana Gretton, the only and beloved child of Philip and Susanna Gretton, who died of consumption at Colchester, on the 4th of August, 1833, in the 19th year of her age; in whom were united beauty, accomplishments, talents, and a most amia¬ ble disposition. So devoted was her filial affection, that even in the awful hour of dissolution she endeavoured to restrain the expression of her own sufferings, to mitigate the grief of her afflicted parents, whose sole consolation now rests on the Christian’s hope of being permitted to join their beloved child in those mansions of peace where the voice of sorrow and of anguish shall be heard no more. 7. Near this place is interred Mr. Philip Gretton, youngest son of the late Dr. Gretton, obt. May 20th, 1749, set. 22. Also, Elizabeth, wife of the Rev d . Charles Gretton, obt. April 10th, a.d. 1776, set. 52. Likewise, the Rev d . Charles Gretton, A.M., Rector of Bosvils Portion, and Wretcham Bohunt, in this county, obt. September 29th, a.d. 1783, set. 67. The following benefactions to this parish are recorded on the front of the gallery :— 1. The poor of this parish are entitled to a rent-charge of £6 13.?. 4 d. per annum, payable out of certain lands called Great Perry Field, Little Perry Field, and Mill Field, situated in the parish. This rent charge was settled by Robert Peasely of this parish, yeoman, pursuant to a decree of the Court of Chancery, dated 23rd of January, 1586, upon the Mildmay family and other trustees of the poor, to be expended for their benefit under direction of the minister, churchwardens, and overseers for the time being. 2. The poor of this parish are also entitled (under direction of the ministers, churchwardens, and overseers, for the time being) to four tenements situate on the south-west side of the Green, occupied by indigent persons belonging to the parish; and also to a tenement situate on the west side of the road leading from the Green to Little Waltham!, and occasionally used for the residence of persons afflicted with contagious disorders. 3. The parishioners are entitled to a rent-charge of £2 per annum, payable by the proprie¬ tor of Springfield Place for the time being, out of a piece of land lying contiguous to the east end of the churchyard, which formerly belonged to the parish, but now forms part of the court¬ yard in front of Springfield Place. 4. The parishioners are entitled to certain lands, containing twelve acres and nineteen poles, situate in the parish, and known by the names of Holme Field, Alms Field, Church Field, Wood Field, and Little Lay Oaks; the rents arising therefrom, as well as the last-mentioned rent- charge of £2 per annum, are to be applied in repairing and beautifying the parish church, under direction of the churchwardens for the time being; and the surplus, if any, to be applied to the assistance and support of the poor of the parish. These lands are conveyed to certain trustees, who meet in November every year to audit the accounts. It is but justice to the churchwardens to say, that the power and ability vested in them by the above donation, have been exercised in a praiseworthy manner; and that Springfield Church is not only kept in the neatest and most reputable condition, flemyng’s hall. .51 but exhibits fewer barbarisms than most sacred edifices subjected to constant repairs. The font, which lies hidden by rubbish in the tower, is of an earlier date than the church itself, and probably appertained to a former edifice, of which the north aisle may have formed a portion : it is probably as early as Henry the First’s reign. RUN WELL. Runwell is a rectory, valued in the king’s books at £13 per annum, of which the yearly tenths are fixed at £1 6s. The church is a regular structure, comprising a nave, chancel, and two aisles, with a square tower containing four bells. In the chancel is the following inscription in old English characters :— Here doe lie Ewstace Sulyard,Esquier, and Margarett Ayloff, sometime his wyfe, who had to her first husbande Gregory Ballet, Esquier, by whome she had yssue Dorothie, her only daughter and heyer, and now wyfe unto Anthonie Maxey, Esquier; and to her second husband she had the sayd Ewstace Sulyard, between whome they had yssue Edward Sulyard, Esquier, their sonne and heyer, and Mary, Margaret, Jane, Anne, and Bridget, their daughters; and to her thirde and last husbande she had William Ayloff, of Brittens, Esquier, by whome she had no yssue; which said Ewstace Sulyard died in Februarie, in the first yeare of King Edwarde the Sixte, and the said Margaret died the fifte of Februarie in the ix and twentyeth yeare of our soueragne queene Elizabeth. Occupying a most beautiful situation, about a mile and a half from the church, stand the remains of FLEMYNG’S HALL. The gable represented is nearly all that a destructive fire has left of this spacious edifice, which, in its original state, must have been a truly noble and extensive build¬ ing. It derives its name from the family of Flemyng, who possessed a lordship so called from a very early period; this manor, however, passed by marriage to the ARMS OP SULYAltD. Sulyards, whose arms, quartered, remain in the centre compartment of the lower window to the present time. And to the Sulyards, and not to the Flemyngs, I 52 SUCKLING PAPERS. should ascribe the building of the existing mansion, as both the style of architec¬ ture and the armorial bearings would indicate. The house and estate remained long with their descendants, and now form part of the possessions of Sir John Tyrrell of Boreham House, near Chelmsford; hut by what tenure or transfer the Tyrrells obtained it I have not been informed. remains op Fleming’s hall. The original structure in its entire state, like all large mansions of that period, inclosed a court-yard, and was defended by a deep moat. Considerable remains of the latter are visible, strengthened still further by a lofty embankment of earth on the inner side. Above one hundred spacious apartments, and a large chapel, finely vaulted with stone, were contained in this quadrangle ; while the interior fittings corresponded with such magnificence, stained glass in great profusion, tapestry, that favourite orna¬ ment of our ancestors, and paintings, by eminent masters, sparkled in the windows and adorned the walls. Many of these decorations have been removed by the Tyrrells, and are said to enrich the apartments of their present residence. External proofs of the same noble feeling are not wanting at Flemyng’s. The beauties of nature (who wantons here in her most luxuriant garb) were assisted by INGATESTONE. 53 the hand of art, and an extensive park, fine canals, a large warren, and delight¬ ful woods, must have rendered this residence one of the most attractive spots in the neighbourhood of the metropolis; and it is difficult to account how fashion should have so far overcome taste as to compel the latter to abandon Flemyng’s Hall to neglect and dilapidation. INGATESTONE. Morant fancies that this village derived its name from a Roman milestone which stood somewhere near, and this supposition appears very probable, as the Watling Street passed through the parish ; Ing-at-the-Stone would, therefore, signify, in the Saxon language, the fields near the milestone. The church, which is a rectory, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, comprises a large and lofty tower of red brick, a nave and chancel, with a south aisle to each, and a chapel, now used as a vestry, attached to the north side of the latter. The columns of the nave are composed of four clustered cylinders, finished with plain moulded capitals, while those in the chancel are octangular. The whole interior presents a gloomy and heavy appearance, arising principally, I think, from a want of that loftiness which so peculiarly distinguishes and embellishes Gothic architecture. The entire aisle of the chancel, and the chapel on the opposite side, are appro¬ priated as burial places by the family of Petre, who not only possess the principal estate in the parish, but formerly resided at Ingatestone Hall, a fine old mansion which will be presently noticed. Several altar tombs, with recumbent and kneeling figures of marble, in the taste of the sixteenth century, will be seen here, erected to various members of this family. Against the north wall of the chancel is a mural monument to the memory of Mr. Hollis, the well-known antiquary, bearing the fol¬ lowing inscription:— Thomas Brand Hollis, Esq re , of the Hyde, F.R.S. and S.A., died September 9th, 1804, aged 84. In testimony of friendship and gratitude, this monument is erected by John Disney, D.D., F.S.A. Timothy Brand Hollis, Esq rc , died the 25th of January, 1734, aged fifty-one years. Ingatestone Hall stands about half a mile southward of the church, and was, in its perfect state, a very large mansion: three sides only now remain, much disfigured by the introduction of modern windows and doors. 54 SUCKLING PAPERS. UPMINSTER. This village unquestionably derives its name from a church founded here in early Saxon times, and the adjunct of Up (high) must he understood by comparison only, in relation to some other parish possessing a like distinction. There are several manors in this parish; the principal of which are those of Gains and Upminster Hall. The former obtained that appellation from the ancient family of Engaine, who became owners of it about the time of King John. It is said that Alice Ferrers or Perrers—the mistress of Edward the Third’s old age— subsequently became possessed of it, through the liberality of that monarch, but it afterwards passed in succession through the families of Deincourt, Wayte, Latham, D’Ewes, Rowe, Graves and White, and is now, I believe, the property of the Esdailes. The manor of Upminster Hall was one of seventeen granted by Harold to his foundation at Waltham, and is thought to have been a retiring place or hunting seat of the abbot of that monastery. The present house is an ancient edifice, delightfully situated, and commanding a rich, varied, and extensive view. Mr. Morant states that in his days the chapel, built of stone, was entire, with a font for the use of the tenants of the manor, and also a cemetery. It is now held by the family of Branfill, who purchased it from the Lord Gains¬ borough, whose predecessor, Juliana, Viscountess Dowager Campbell, bought it for £6640 of the Lathams, whose ancestors had previously obtained it for the sum of £S4S 8 s. 11 d. of Henry the Eighth ; it having reverted to that monarch on the at¬ tainder of Lord Cromwell, to whom, upon the general dissolution of religious houses, he had first granted it. Some authorities mention that the manor of Upminster Hall was held by the abbot of the king by the service of maintaining his greyhounds, but this assertion is not so clearly proved as to warrant our repeating it here. The church at Upminster, which is a rectory, dedicated to Saint Lawrence, com¬ prises merely a nave and chancel of humble architecture, with a north aisle run¬ ning nearly the entire length of the fabric. These are divided by an arcade of pointed arches, sustained by four clustered cylindrical shafts, having plain moulded capitals. The square tower at the west end,, surmounted by the short spire of shingles—so common in this part of the country—opens by an expansive and pointed arch to the body of the church, and contains three bells. The effect, however, of this design is much marred by the addition of modern and paltry littlenesses, and by the erection of a singing gallery, placed there, as we are informed, “ in 1782, pursuant to the will of Charles Hornby, Esq r ., and during the incumbency of John Rose Holden, A.M., Rector.” UPMINSTER. 55 The font is octangular; carved with rosettes, and is not entitled to particular notice. The eastern portion of the north aisle is divided from the other part of this building by a screen of oak, finely ramified and in good preservation. This is called Saint Mary’s or Engaine’s Chapel, and was rebuilt in 1771 in a most barbarous taste, by Sir James Esdaile, Knt., the then lord of the manor. The original founder of this chantry was Sir John Engaine, who made it his burial place, and fancy draws a pleasing picture of the ancient design, warranted by the good taste which invariably distinguishes the buildings of our ancestors from the imitations of modern days. What were Sir James Esdaile’s motives for rebuilding this chapel, I know not, but our regret at the demolition is somewhat lessened by learning that, in the seventeenth century, (a period of little taste,) Engaine’s structure was materially altered by a Mr. Clarke, “ who, out of his pious devotion to the honour of God, did at his sole charge repair and beautify this chapel, a.d. 1630.” By Mr. Clarke’s munificence, the arms of Engaine, Deincourt, and Latham, were painted on glass and placed in the east window—though they now occupy the north window of this chantry—a position probably preferred by Sir John Esdaile, when he rebuilt it: these emblazonments are much injured by the hands of violence. In a scroll, around each of these shields, is the following label:— 1. Anna Roberti Deincourt, Armigeri, et Elizabethe uxoris ejus. 2. Arina Johannis Engaine, Militis, qui hoc sacellum edificavit. This family of Engaine, whose piety founded, and whose armorial cognizance yet beautifies this chapel, is said by the learned Dr. Brady to have obtained that sur¬ name from the Latin words “ De Ingeniis,” as their ancestor was master of the mili¬ tary engines to William the Conqueror. However this may be, their name is cer¬ tainly written “Ingaine” in the earliest records, and that they were amply rewarded for services performed, is evident from the number of villages and manors granted to them, and still retaining their name. Robert Deincourt, whose family shield likewise sparkles in the same window, was a scion of the noble family of D’Eincourt descended from Walter, a follower of William the Conqueror, who obtained very large possessions in the north of England. The arms of Deincourt are impaled with those of Elizabeth his wife, who was a daughter of Henry de la Field ; they are both buried, according to the statement of Weever, in his Funeral Monuments, under the arch between the chapel and chancel. No trace, however, of such interment is at this day visible. The ornaments on the top of the screen seem of a date much inferior to the age of the screen itself. In the centre is a shield with these charges :—Or, a fess daun- 56 SUCKLING PAPERS. cette az.; on the lower half of the escocheon, arg. a chevr. int. three etoiles gules, impaling, or, on a bend engrailed azure, three lozenges of the field. I believe it only remains to notice the monumental records contained in this edi¬ fice ; these are numerous, but not very interesting, though it is necessary to tran¬ scribe them in accordance with the plan of these humble collections. MONUMENTS. 1. On the floor of the chantry already mentioned lies, nearly concealed by modern pews, a small but not inelegant figure in brass. It was probably intended to perpetuate the memory of some of the Lathams, who held the manor of Engaine from 1543 to 1587, though the last lord of this line survived till 1600, still in possession of a small estate in the parish. The costume of this figure so exactly accords with that period, as to nourish the conjecture that he was here in¬ terred with the bones of his ancestors. It is more than probable that an inscription, placed at the feet of the effigy, is existing beneath the floor of a pew erected near it. 2. Against the north wall of the chapel are several large plates of brass, thus inscribed: “ Here under this marble stone resteth, in assured hope of a joyfull resurection, the body of Grace Latham, daughter to William Latham, Esquier, the which aforesayd Grace depted y e 18 day of Jully A 0 . Dni. 1626, being of y e age of 22 yeares, and died a Mayde. 3. Johes Stanley, Civis et Aurifaber London., tertius filius Johis Stanley de West Peckham in Com. Kane, generosi p. Annam uxorem suam, (filiam Willi Lathum de Upminster in Com. Essex Armigeri,) genuit Johem et Annam, qui mortui sunt, et hie jacent, Anno Dni, 1626. 4. Ad memoriam astemam Geerardt D’Ewes, filij primogeniti Adriani D’Ewes ex illustri et perantiqua familia Des Ewes Dynastarum ditionis de Kessel in Ducatu Gelrice oriundi, et Alicias Ravenscroft, conjugis sure, viri singularis, sub hoc marmore tumulati, qui obiit die xii Aprilis, Anno Domini ciodxci. unico relicto sui ipsius, et Gracias Hind, prim as suae conjugis filio et lirerede Paulo D’Ewes, Armigero, (qui duxit in uxorem Sissiliam, filiam unicam et Haeredem Richardi Simonds de Coxden in Pago Dorsitensi Armigeri,) et unica filia Alicia, nupta Gulielmo Lathum de Upmenster in Comitatu Essex Armigero. Q 1 . qq. Geer 3 , fuit Dhs man de Gaynes. 5. Under this marble do lye buried, in an assured hope of a joyfull resurreccion, Hamlett Clarke, of London, Gen.; & Alice his second wife, the widowe of William Lathum, Esquier, late Lord of the Mannor of Gaynes, by whome shee had five sonnes and one daughter yet livinge, and seaven other children deceased; and her eldest sonne Ralphe Lathum, Esq; now Lo of the Mannor aforesaid, married Marye, the daughter and heire of the said Hamlett by Elnur, a former wife, who lieth interred in the parish church of Saint Martin’s in Iremonger Lane, Lon¬ don. The said Alice Clarke died the 7 dayeof July, 1636. The said Ralphe by the said Marye had three children, viz., Hamlett, a sonne, and Marye, a daughter, now livinge, and Mathew, buried in this Chappell, y° 23 daie of August, 1624. Of the family of D’Ewes, above recorded, sprang the learned Sir Simonds D’Ewes, the celebrated antiquary, whose works are so often referred to in the course of these collections. UPMINSTER. 57 6. In this chapel lie the remains of Miss Susanna Esdaile, second daughter of James Es¬ daile, Esquier, and Susey, his wife, who fell a victim to bodily disease 27 day of March, 1805, in the 19th year of her age. 7. This monument of filial piety was erected to the memory of Sir James Esdaile, Knt., who died April 6th, 1793, aged 78 years. And of Mary, his wife, who died February 21, 1792, aged 60 years. 8. This tablet is erected by parental affection as a tribute due to early virtue. In the church¬ yard of Dawlish, Devon, are deposited the remains of Mr. John Esdaile, Jun r ., who died there May 10th, 1802, in the 21st year of his age. And also of Mr. Peter Esdaile, Jun r ., who died there May 1, 1802, in the 20th year of his age, the second and third sons of James Esdaile and Susey, his wife, of New Place in this parish. Whether ye sleep in dust, awaiting doom, Or to new life are summon’d from the tomb, To you, my children, good is surely given. Yours rest from pain, or yours the bliss of heaven. 9. Within the vault belonging to this chapel, are deposited the remains of James Esdaile, Esq r ., late of New Place in this parish. He was the eldest son of Sir James Esdaile, Knt., by his second wife, Mary, who was the daughter of John Mayor, Esq r ., late of London. He was a firm, serious, and pious Christian; and his religious principles were not more conspicuously exemplified in the candour and liberality of his sentiments, than in the charity and beneficence of his actions. He died sincerely and deservedly lamented by all who knew him, particularly by the poor of the neighbourhood where he resided—but most poignantly by his mourning widow and children, to whom his loss is irreparable. Yet they mourn not as those who have no hope: they confidently and piously rely upon the gracious promises of Him, who, in the sacred words of Revelation, hath declared that as in Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive. He died on the 16th day of June, 1812, in the 60th year of his age. 10. In memory of Peter Esdaile, Esq re , of Great Gaines, who died the 27th of October, 1817, aged 74. 11. To the memory of Mrs. Mary Stubbs, wife of George Stubbs, Esq re , and daughter of the late Sir James Esdaile and Mary his wife, who died the 2nd of August, 1802, aged forty- seven years. 12. Sacred to the memory of Louisa Frances, wife of Philip Zachariah Cox, Esq re , of Har¬ wood Hall in this parish, who died at Rome on the 10th day of April, 1827, aged 28 years. 13. In memory of Captain Andrew Branfill, who lyeth interred in a vault underneath. He dyed the 24th of July, 1709, aged 69. And also his wife,Damaris Branfill; she died Feb 1 ? 3rd, 172^, aged 62. And their son Andrew Branfill, Esq r ., who died June 6th, 1750, in y e 50th year of his age. 14. In memory of Mrs. Mary Redman, youngest daughter of Captain Andrew Branfill and wife of Captain John Redman, forty-one years. She departed this life the 2nd day of October, 1758, aged 62 years. As she lived in the practise of many Christian virtues, so she resigned her soul to Him that gave it, with that happy composure which is the sure consequence of a I 58 SUCKLING PAPERS. good life. In a vault on the left hand of this monument lies Captain John Redman, aged 79 years. As also, Mary Redman, the wife of John, only son of the above Captain Redman, aged 24. 15. Near this place lyeth interred the body of Champion Branfill, Esq re , who died y e 18th of June, 1738, aged 55 years. And also Mary Branfill, his affectionate wife, who died June the 3rd, 1760, aged 66. Likewise Champion Branfill, Esq re , son of the above Champion and Mary Branfill, died April 26th, 1770, aged 58. 16. Here reposes with the ashes of his ancestors, the body of Champion Branfill, Esq re , of Upminster Hall, whose integrity of heart, and rectitude of mind, made his early and unexpected death, in the 29th year of his age, severely and generally lamented, but most poignantly by her who, in grateful remembrance, erects this monument. He died October the 7th, 1792, leaving issue by Charlotte his wife, daughter of Edward Brydges, Esq r ., of Wootton in Kent, a son and a daughter. 17. To the memory of Elizabeth Dugdale,the virtuous and most affectionate wife of Thomas Dugdale, of London, Merchant, daughter of Rich d . Goodlad, of London, Woollen-draper, who departed this life April 8th, 1701, aetat. 37. 18. Beneath this seat lie the remains of the Rev d . John William Hopkins, late Rector of this parish. He was interred July 15th, 1780, aged 46. 19. M. S. Johannis Huntington Wharrie, M.D., Qui turn propter felicem in arte sua diligentiam turn propter humanitatem morum, Et integritatem vitae spectatissimam Necnon ob animi modestiam, simplicitatem, constantiam Ab omnibus in his qua patent locis Conquisitus idem et dilectus Sexennium peregit. Annos triginta sex natus— Sexto ido Nov 8 , decessit Salutis Anno mdcccxxiv. Cui omnia et artis et amicitiae officia Nunquam non praestabat. Ecclesiae hujusce Rector, H. M. S. P. Desiderij simul et amoris ergo, Poni curavit Beneath a handsome altar tomb, in the churchyard, lies buried Mr. Samuel Bradshaw, descended from the regicide of that name. He was presented to this rectory in 1735, and built the present handsome Parsonage House. His monument bears the following brief record of his mortal career. » UPMINSTER. 59 Samuel Bradshaw, hujus ecclesi® Rector, obiit 4° die Jan. Anno Domini, 1768, setatis sum 85. In the church are these arms, which are not represented in the drawing. Stubbs.— Sab. on a bend or int. three pheons reversed arg. as many buckles sab. impaling Esdaile. Esdaile also impales—Erin, on a chevron engrailed sable, three cinquefoils or. Also, Gules, an anchor palewise or, on a chief of the second, three roses of the field. Branfill impales—Gules, three annulets argent, on a chief of the second, a canton or charged with a rose of the field. Branfill, quartered with the above, impales —Az., three bars or, on a canton arg., a griffin’s head erased gules. The parish of Upminster contains several excellent houses, inhabited by persons of respectability and fortune, hut that which claims our chief attention is situated near the church, and known by the name of the High House. Its attractions, how¬ ever, are not derived from its splendour or immensity, hut from the circumstance of its having been for many years the residence of the learned and virtuous Dr. William Derham. “ Non ebur, neque aureum Mea renidet in domo lacunar: Non trabes Hymettias Premunt columnas ultima recisse Africa. At fides et ingeni Benigna vena est”. This excellent man was rector of Upminster from 1689 to 1735. He was horn at Stowton in Worcestershire, 26 November, 165J, and graduated at Trinity College, Oxford. He became afterwards chaplain to the Dowager Lady Grey; was presented to this preferment, August the 31st, 1689; installed canon of Windsor, September the 19th, 1716; and created D.D. June 26th, 1730. He was one of the most inde¬ fatigable members of the Royal Society, to which learned body he communicated many valuable papers. But his principal works were his Physico-Theology, Astro- Theology, and Christo-Theology, and his Notes and Observations upon Eleazar Albin’s Natural History of Birds and English Insects. The reader who wishes for a more extended account of this good man, will find his life detailed at considerable length in the Biographia Britannica, Vol. III., page 1649. He left, by Anne his wife, William Derham, D.D., who died President of St. John’s College, Oxford. 1 2 60 SUCKLING PAPERS. High House was likewise inhabited by Major Howard, the particular friend of Lord Byron; and here many of the stanzas of Childe Harold were composed. Major Howard was killed at Waterloo. The house is the property of the Esdailes, but is now rented by William Tabrum, Esq., M.D., from whom the writer has received considerable attention. NORTH OCKENDEN. Ockenden, written anciently Okingdon, Wokendon, Wokyndon, Wochaduna a , and Lackington, is the name given to two adjoining villages in the hundred of Chafford; and distinguished from each other by the addition of North and South. From the very dissimilar manner in which this word has been spelled at different periods, the etymology of the name is settled with doubt, and whether to derive it, as Mr. Mo- rant justly observes, from the Saxon ac- 1113 -bun; that is, oak-pasture hill, or from Wocen or Woca, a proper name, is difficult to determine. Changing, however, that antiquary’s bun into ron, I should adopt the compounds of ac-in 3 -ron, oak-pasture village, as its most probable meaning; and this is the more agreeable to sense and local propriety, as no dun or hill is visible in these parishes, which, lying below the range of hills forming the northern boundary of the great valley through which the Thames rolls his course, offer to the eye a surface still well wooded, but scarcely broken by an undulating swell. Little weight is to be given to the spelling of Domesday, as that book was compiled by foreigners, unacquainted with the Saxon language and pronunciation, and very many instances might he quoted of their in¬ accuracy and ignorance ; and we have a remarkable proof how words were perverted, in the very case of North Ockenden, which, having been distinguished by seven foun¬ tains, celebrated, possibly, in those days for their medicinal qualities, obtained the adjunct of Septem Fontium. The village was almost immediately after written, “ Okingdon Seetfountaynes.” The virtues of these springs have long been forgotten, nor is even their site remembered. The manor of North Ockenden was held, in the Confessor’s reign, by Earl Harold, and at the time of the Conqueror’s survey was in the possession of the Abbot a Terra Goisfredi de Magnavilla, Hund. de Ceffeorda. Wocbadunam tenet Turoldus de Goisfrido, &c. Again, Wochendunam tenuit Haroldus. And so again, In Wochenduna tenet Willielmus Camerarius: In Wockenduna habet rex i. Sochemannum de xxv. ac. &c. And in later days, a member of the family of Baudwin styles himself Badewynus filius Willmi de Wokyndon Setfantavna (circiter 1320). NORTH OCKENDEN. 6l of Westminster. It soon, however, passed into the hands of king William’s cham¬ berlain, and probably remained for a considerable period with his descendants. In the ninth of Edward the Second, John Malegreffe held it; and from him it passed to the family of Baud win—a monument to one of whom, dated 1316, still lies in the north aisle of this church. About the middle of this century, by the marriage of Henry Pointz, Esq., with Elianor, daughter and heiress of William Baudwin, it was conveyed to the former gentleman, whose posterity enjoyed it till the latter end of the sixteenth century, when Thomas Poyntz, Esq., dying without issue, his estates devolved on his sister Catharine, who, having married Sir John Morice, of Chipping Ongar, this manor, amongst others, was held by that family, who assumed the surname of Pointz, and continued Lords of North Ockenden till 1643, when Richard Pointz, alias Morice, dying unmarried at Montaubon, in France, during that year, this estate passed again by marriage to the family of Littleton. It is now held, I believe, by that of Meynell. James Littleton, Esq., Vice-Admiral of the White, M.P. for Woodstock, Chiches¬ ter, and Portsmouth, dying, February the 5th, 17^2, lord of this manor, was buried here. Admirals Jennings, Wager, Norris, Hosier, Delaval, and Strickland sup¬ porting his pall. The advowson of North Ockenden has always been attached to the manor, and so continues. The whole parish is rated to the land tax at £744. The church is a rectory, dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalen, and comprises a square tower, a nave, chancel, north aisle, and chapel; the latter being the burial place of the lords of the manor. With regard to the architecture of this small edi¬ fice, it is in that unsettled style which prevailed when the Norman was giving place to the introduction of the pointed arch, retaining examples of both, and partaking of the rudeness of each. Thus we find the north and south doors circular headed, and nearly plain, while the columns of the nave are cylindrical, elongated indeed from the Norman proportion, but still bespeaking their Norman origin, and vet sus¬ taining pointed arches. The font, attached to one of these pillars, is little else than a copy of that archi¬ tectural member: retaining the base, shortening the shaft, and hollowing the capital, we obtain the prototype of such a font; but, after all, a form not very unusual at the period in question. The piscina is formed by a small double recess in the south wall of the chancel, but is not entitled to notice. As before observed, the chapel on the north side of the chancel has long been appropriated as the burial place of the families successively lords of the manor. In the east window of this sacellum sparkle in gorgeous brilliancy the leopards of England, the lilies of France, and the 62 SUCKLING TAPERS. chequered shield of Warren ; and amidst these appears the ancient and scarcely less beautiful shield of Poyntz. Turning from the glowing tints of this window to view FONT IN NORTH OCKENDEN CIIORCH. the architecture of the chapel, we are immediately convinced that it is an erection somewhat subsequent to the general building, as its thin and clustered column, with its carved capital, bespeak; but by far the most remarkable feature here is the suc¬ cession of monumental tablets erected to the family of Poyntz : there are eleven mural slabs, besides several brass plates, and two effigies in praying attitudes. The mural slabs seem all to have been put up at one time, and during the reign of James the First: they partake of one general character; namely, a pediment supported by two Grecian columns, having kneeling figures in the recess, and an inscription be¬ low. The minuter ornaments and details, however, are varied, and what is singular, and gives the greater value to the series is, that every figure is appropriately habited in the costume peculiar to the time in which he flourished. So minutely are these Vcmarraore rctjmrfctraf cabamra Willi Jtamgm M^eibzt]/cmduOit Tut nap Sworn (folmnraa Stout mite et marora fctatio foobon qm^aki^balrifi Ttaiure pnMnit ya He Aucpilk A“bmm V&rabo hxrftw aero Miras obitf bit vunlu Jfamo (tot mxtlmcr qttiitjjmfdmw NORTH OCKENDEN. 63 distinctions observed, that the very dressing of the female hair, and the heard and moustache of the warrior, are trimmed with scrupulous exactness. These mural monuments are of small proportions, hut we bestow more attention on them than on the adjoining recumbent figures, which, coarsely carved in full proportion, recline beneath canopies resplendent with gilding and paint. I regret exceedingly that time would not permit my copying each of these memorials, and I had only opportunity to transcribe the inscription placed to the last of this ancient line. It is as follows : This monument was erected in memory of Sir James Poyntz, als. Morice, eldest sonne of Sir John Poyntz, als. Morice, who died August, 1623; and of Richard Poyntz, Esq r ., als. Morice, only sonne of the sayde Sir James, by Mary, Lady Poyntz, one of y e daughters of Sir Richard Smith, of Leeds Castell, in Kent, deceased, who died August the 15th, 1643, at Mon- taubon, in France, where he was interred, and a grave stone layd upon him with this inscrip¬ tion : “ I have trusted in the Lord all the dayes of my life:” which said Richard did by last will bequeath unto y e poore of North Okendon two hundred pound ; and for a silver vessel for the Sacrament of y e Lord’s supper there, fifty pounds. On the floor of this chapel are two figures in brass, briefly noticed in a former page. They represent, as the inscription beneath their feet relates, William Pointz, Esq., and Elizabeth, his wife, sister to Sir John Shaw, Lord Mayor of London. The lady died on the 21st day of August, 1502, but the period of her husband’s decease is not filled up. It would seem, however, from other evidences, that he did not long survive her. It is curious to observe, that the concluding sentence, expressive of the doctrine of Purgatory, has been partially erased. There was a Colonel Poyntz, an active officer in the republican army, and if he were related to this family, it is more than probable that to his interference the preservation of this monument is due, though his puritanical zeal might allow the offensive sentence to be erased. There are four shields attached to this sepulchral memorial; each contains the coat of Poyntz impaling Shaw, there spelt Shaa; and at the feet of the principal figures are two groups of children, six boys and six girls. I have described the monuments of the Poyntz family first, as being by far the most interesting things in this chapel, though, in point of chronological order, I should have noticed the older floor-stone of William Baudwin, from whom the manor descended by a female heir to that line. It is a large plain stone of grey marble, the old French inscription on which, in Longobardic characters, is yet very legible. It is as follows :— Willieam Baudwin gist ici, Deux de sa aia eyt merci, 1316. 64 SUCKLING PAPERS. POYNTZ, IIIS PEDIGREE. POYNTZ OF TOKINGTON, Co. OF GLOUCESTER. » Sir John Poyntz = . . . D r . and h 8 . of Sir Jno. Glanbow. _j Sir John Poyntz — . . . Sister and h 8 . of Sir John Acton. I Sir Robert PoyntzzzCath 8 . d r . and li s . of Tho 8 . Fitz Nicol. I ___ 1st wife, Eliz., d r . of Hen. Hussey=Nicholas Poyntz =D r . of . . . Maura, Thomas Poyntz. I I of Gloucestershire. Jane Poyntz. John Poyntz= . . . Henry Pointz, 2nd son,=ELiANOR Baudwin, settled at Ockenden. I of Ockenden. Sir Robi. Poyntz=Mar9. d'. of Antony Wood- John Poyntz=Elianoh, d r . and coi 1 . of Sir 1 John Dancote. ville, E. of Rivers John Poyntz~Maud. d r . and coh 8 . of ill. Perte, of Alverley. William Poyntz=Elizabeth, sister to Sir John Shaa, Lord Mayor of London, obt. 1502. John Poyntz,zz Anne, sister and h 8 . of Thomas Poyntz,=Anne, d r . of John Henry Poyntz ’ T -n- obt. 1562. 1 v»w n*T.vA ob. June 15, Isaac Sibley, co. Bucks. 1558, s.p Van Calva. i -i-; i Sir Gabriel PoyntzzzEtheldred, d r . of Peter Ferdinand Sir Rich d . Saltonstall—Susanna I Cutts, relict of R. La- Poyntz. Poyntz. THAM. Thomas Poyntz, obt. s.p. “ i Sir John Morice,=Catharine Poyntz. of Chipping Ongar. I Sir James Poyntz,=Mary, d r . of Sir Rich d . Smith, alias Morice, obt. | of Leeds Castle, co. Kent. Rich 0 . Poyntz, alias Morice, obt. s.p. at Montaubon, Aug. 15, 1643. WILLINGHALE. 65 In the east window of the chancel is the shield of Beauchamp, Earls of Warwick : in point of colouring, it rivals those in the chantry chapel already noticed; hut by what circumstance it occupies its situation here, I am uncertain, as I am not aware that that family ever possessed property in North Ockenden; certainly the manor was never held by them. There is a good brass on the floor of the nave, representing a female in a de¬ votional attitude, and which my short stay alone prevented me from copying. Among the modern memorials in this sacred edifice are the following:— 1. John Russel, of Stubbers in this parish, obt. 30th December, 1825. 2. Joseph Russel, Esq re , of Stubbers, obt. 13th of February, 1828. Stubbers is a handsome seat in this parish, about a mile from the church, at present held by a Lady Russel, but at her decease reverting to Mr. Branfill of Upminster. The pedigree in the opposite page is extracted principally from the monumental records in the church of North Ockenden, confirmed by Inquisitiones post mortem and other records entitled to credit. There was a branch of this line connected by marriage with the writer’s family, and more than ordinary intimacy appears to have existed between them, as one of the principal apartments in the old hall at Shelton, in Norfolk, was designated “ My Ladye Poyntz’s chamber.” I am not certain, however, whether it was this, or the older branch of Tokington, with whom the matrimonial alliance was formed. WILLINGHALE. Willinghale Spain and Willinghale Dou, two parishes so called from their ancient possessors, are united in a more than ordinary degree by the circumstance of their two churches standing in one cemetery. The cause of this singularity, it seems, at the present day, impossible to explain. The distinctive names, however, of these villages, as may readily be supposed, are derived from their ancient owners, one of whom appears to have been of French, and the other of Spanish origin. The largest of these parishes is named from the family of D’Eau, now corrupted into Dou and Doe. In the reign of Henry the Second, William de Ou held four knights’ fees, and Hugh de Ou one, under Geoffry de Mandeville, Earl of Essex a . This parish con¬ tains about fourteen hundred acres. a Lib. Nig. Saccarij. pp. 228, 229. K 66 SUCKLING PAPERS. Willinghale Spain is so called from the family of De Hispania, which seems to have been seated in Essex from the time of the Norman Conquest till the reign of Edward the Second. Their principal residence was at Spain’s Hall in the parish of Finchingfield, near Braintree, which lordship was held by Hervey de Hispania, under Alan the Fierce, in the eleventh century. X; Willinghale Spain contains only nine hundred acres, and is rated to the land tax at £547. We will now examine, separately, the two churches of these villages. That of WILLINGHALE SPAIN Is the smallest of the two, and stands at the south-east corner of the cemetery. It is dedicated to Saint Andrew and All Saints. This is by far the most ancient structure ; exhibiting small round-headed loopholes, as well as lancet windows and Norman doorways; the latter being profusely ornamented with iron work, spreading in various devices over the entire doors, though the stonework is entirely devoid of decoration. A finely proportioned pointed arch divides the nave from the chancel; neither of which possesses aisles or chapels, while a small turret of wood, at the western end, supplies the place of a bell-tower. William de Hispania gave this church to the Priory of Blackmore, for the health of the souls of his father and mo¬ ther, and of himself and his wife. Monkish rapacity accordingly endowed a vicar¬ age, dividing the profits of the living between the convent and the vicar, who was thenceforth nominated by the Bishop of London, and presented by the prior. At length, the vicar’s income, which was only five marks a year, being found too small for his subsistence, he petitioned Bishop Braybroke that the ordination of the vicar- age might be annulled, and the whole profits go to the maintenance of a rector, re¬ serving to the convent a pension of forty shillings a year, to pray for the souls of William de Hispania and his relations; all which was ratified under the bishop’s seal, on the 13th of January, in the year 1398. At the dissolution of monasteries, the WILLINGHALE SPAIN. 67 right of presentation to this rectory came to the Crown, but the nomination has ever continued with the Bishop of London. The monuments in this church are few and inconsiderable, yielding in this re¬ spect much to the sister church of Dou. That which claims our first notice derives its consideration from the singularity of its design, rather than from its size or the costliness of its material. It somewhat resembles a book, fastened by one side against the south wall of the chancel, being about a foot in length, and eight or ten inches in width. On the outside of the cover, which is of wood, and moves on metal hinges, is an escocheon of Beulie’s arms and quarterings : and on the inside of this cover is a second shield, charged with the same bearings, impaling the following coat: The interior of this whimsical contrivance contains a sheet of parchment, fixed to the other cover, on which are emblazoned several shields of Beaulie’s arms, single, and adapted in point of shape to the sex of the deceased : they are represented as affixed to the pillars of a Grecian arch, in the centre of which are written the follow¬ ing conceited verses, while a brief memorial of the birth and death of each person is subjoined to each escocheon :— The time of the lives and deaths of the children of Edward Beauly, Doctor in Divinity, and Line, his wife. Line, the eldest, born and baptized at Writtle the 6th of February, 1613, and lieth buried in the chancell there. She was buried the xi of February, 1633. Jane, the next, borne the 17 of May, 1615; buried the 13 of Julye, 1638. K 2 68 SUCKLING PAPERS. Thomas, second sonne, borne on the second of March, 1623; buried the 22 day of May, 1626. Thomas, third sonne, bom on the 13 of March, 1628 ; buried the 25 of May, 165 : . Francis, seaventh daughter, borne on the xi of May, 1626; buried the 28 of September, 1630. Jane, the ninth child, mar. to Edward Beaulie, and Line, his wife, was borne the 21 of Aprill, 1631; buried the 24 of June, 1632. Here lieth the body of John Markham, late of Pater Noster Row, London, Esq re , who de¬ parted this life the 4th day of October, 1757, aged 73 years. Also the body of Elizabeth, his wife, who departed this life 5th day of April, 1761, aged 62 years. Here lies the body of Penelope, daughter of Anthony Nicholas, Minister of this place, wife of George Fulford, of London, Linen draper, who died the 13th of 9-ber, in the year of our Salvation 1667, and in the 22 of her age. Shee left issue one son, named George, 6 months old. Here lyeth Joseph Kello, being xiii years of age, departed this life the last day of September, 1614. He was son to Mr. Bartholomew Kello, Minister of Christ’s Evangle, and Parson of Willingale Spain. Here lieth Isaac Kello, being ix years of age, departed this life 13th of July, 1614. He was son of Mr. Bartholomew Kello, Minister of Christ’s Evangell. This church being dedicated to All Saints, the parish is sometimes, though not very frequently, called Willinghale All Saints. WILLINGHALE DOU. This church, like that of Spain, comprises simply a nave and chancel without aisles. It is however a larger structure, and has a lofty square tower standing at the western end. A beautifully proportioned pointed arch divides the body of the church from the chancel, which possess no other architectural feature worthy of observa¬ tion, if we except the windows of the latter; these have very acutely pointed tracery inserted beneath a square-headed water-label: the effect, however, is very pleasing. This church is also a rectory, dedicated to Saint Christopher. TOMBS. The hands of sacrilege have destroyed many ancient sepulchral brasses in this church; and of the three which are spared, not one remains uninjured. Beginning in chronological order, we must first notice the effigy of a warrior, lying on the floor WILLINGHALE DOU. 69 of the nave ; lie is standing in the usual devotional attitude, clothed in armour, his head hare, and his feet resting on a dog. Besides a few minor injuries, the black- letter inscription originally attached has been forcibly removed, but the armorial ensigns, which still remain on a shield near the head of the figure, shew that the person here interred was a member of the ancient family of Torrell, of Torrell’s Hall, in this parish. From the bulls, the cognizance of this far descended line, Mr. Morant infers that they assumed their surname from the Latin Taurus, thus deriv¬ ing the cause from the effect. In the reports of landowners contained in Domes¬ day, the name of Toroid is of frequent occurrence; and amidst the rude delineations in that invaluable relic of antiquity, the Bayeaux Tapestry, a figure is portrayed, over whose head is written, “ Hie est Turold.” Now, it is a fact no longer contro¬ verted, that armorial bearings date their origin from a period considerably lower than the Norman Conquest, and at this very time we find the Terrolds in possession of that surname. The costume of the effigy in question points decidedly to about the year 1400, when we may assume this gentleman was interred. Within the altar-rails lies a second mutilated effigy belonging to this family. It represents a female in the rich dress of the age in which she flourished, and who, it seems, was a daughter of Humphrey Torrell, Esq., and widow of John Sackville, of Buckhurst, in the county of Sussex, Esq. The arms, placed on the same stone, are those of Sackville impaling Torrell. No other records of this old family exist within the walls of the church; but against the south side of the chancel is a huge and clumsy monument, representing, in stiff and execrable taste, the recumbent figure of a knight in armour, while two ladies, in very much smaller proportion, kneel in recesses on the upper part of this tomb. At the very top is placed an inscription to the memory of Richard Wiseman, Esq., and his wife, parents of the knight represented by the large figure beneath, who were buried in the church of St. Lawrence Pounteney, London. It is impossible to read what filial piety has there inscribed, without the assistance of a ladder, but a perusal of the inflated language on a lower slab of marble will be amply sufficient. Could we believe Sir Robert Wiseman to have been really possessed of all the virtues and accomplishments therein ascribed to him, we might unfeignedly blush for our own degeneracy. But here are the words themselves :— Robertus Wiseman, de Torrells Hall in com. Essex, Eques Auratus, Richardi Wiseman, Armig. supi'a nominati primogenitus filius et b ceres. Vir generosissim, coqjoris et animi dotibus omatus, pius, candidus, quadratus, litis expers, sibi et suis constans, pbilodelpb., philomus., literar. et literat. patron, opt., vicinis amicabilis, sociabilis, hospitalis, egenis beneficus, omnibus aequus, summam existimatione et benevolentia ob facetu ingenium, feeliee memoriam suavem et 70 SUCKLING PAPERS. innocuam conversationem consecut.; cum corporis castitatem quinque supra sexaginta annorum coelibatu comprobasset, et valetudine integerrima vixisset, animam sponso suo Jesu Christo pie et placide reddidit; atque hoc dormitorio cui ipse vivens se mortuum designavit in spe resurrec- tionis ad gloriam, obiit xi die Maij, An 0 . Dni. 1641, setatis suae lxv. Hoc monumentum ipse per ult. suum testamentum dulcissimis parentib. et sibi fieri curavit, cuius solus Executor Richardus Wiseman, Miles, ejus prox frater et Haeres, fidei et officii ergo religiose persolvit. Here lieth the body of that most excellent lady, Winifred Wiseman, wife to Richard Wise¬ man, of Torrells Hall, Esq re , and daughter to Sir John Barrington, of Hatefeld Broad Oak, in the county of Essex, and Barronett, &c. A brass effigy on the chancel floor has attached to it an epitaph, which the in¬ scription informs us, is placed to the memory of “ Dorothy Brewster, wife to Thomas Brewster, Esq ro , and daughter to Sir Thomas Jocelin, Knight, who deceased the seaven and twenty of June, and was buryed the one and twenty of July, 1613.” The cause of this unusually long postponement of her funeral rites is not mentioned. Here lieth the body of Sir John Salter, Knight, Alderman of Corn-Hill Ward, in the City of London. He was Sheriff in the year 1735, and he served the high office of Lord Mayor in the year 1740, and behaved in both stations with great dignity, strict honour, and unbiassed fidelity. He was a good magistrate ; a tender husband; an indulgent father ; and most sincere friend ; and in all conditions of life, appeared a just man, and a true Christian. He died 1st of June, 1744, in the 60th year of his age. Salter bears, Gules, ten billets or, 4. 3. 2. 1., within a border engrailed azure, bezanty. Mrs. Deborah Salter, wife of the late Mr. Tho s . Salter, linen draper, of Cornhill, London, and daughter of Robert Cole, Esq r ., and Deborah his wife, and twins with her only brother, Robert Cole, Esq r , now of Warden’s Hall, in this parish. Also, Mr. Rob 1 . Salter, her eldest son, late linen-draper, of Cornhill, London, to whose memory this monument is erected, An. 1730. Robert Cole, Esq re , and Ann his wife, who died 1733, and are buried in this chancel. Here lies the body of Mrs- Anne Cole, late wife of Rpbert Cole, Esq r ., of Warden’s Hall, who departed this life November 28th, 1732, aged 75 years. Also, here lies the above Robert Cole, Esq re , who departed this life August 21st, 1733, aged 82. I he following arms will be found attached to their respective monuments in this church:— 1. Cole. .... a bull passant .... impaling .... party per chevron .... 3 talbots’ heads eras. FIF1ELD. 71 2. Salter impales, or ; a cross engrailed party per pale argent and azure. 3. Wiseman. Sab. a cliev. int. three coronels of tilting spears arg. impales sable, a chev inter three storks erect argent. The coronels in the arms of Wiseman are a pun upon the name, signifying that a wise man always prefers blunt weapons to pointed spears. Sackville, impales Torrell .... a fess between three bulls’ heads couped .... The font, omitted to be noticed in its proper place, is an octagon, having its sides carved with the sculpture so common on this shaped ornament. The tower contains four bells. The interiors of both these churches are kept in a very dirty and neglected state, reflecting much disgrace on all connected with them. FIFIELD. Fifield is the modern spelling and pronunciation of this village, which, in earlier days, was written Fifhide ; and is derived from the Saxon pip, five, and bybe, a quantity of land. In the Conqueror’s reign the parish belonged to Eustace, Earl of Boulogne. The church is dedicated to Saint Nicholas, and the tithes were given, in the year 1094, to the monastery of Bermondesey, by Roger de Tany, one of the knights of John Fitz-Waleran—that nobleman giving his sanction to the endowment. In 1107 these tithes were confirmed to that monastery by Maud, wife of Asculph, and by her son Graald or Grailand de Tany, who at the same time gave to that religious esta¬ blishment the advowson of the church, which grant was confirmed by kings Henry the First and Second. Notwithstanding these gifts, this church was wrested from the monks before the year 1331, and, strange to say, even before they had obtained an act for appropriating the tithes. The name of this spirited opponent of monastic rapacity has not survived. The rectory has ever since been attached to the manor. The whole parish is rated to the land-tax at £1372 2s. 4 d. Fifield church is a jumble of architectural styles—of architectural* elegances, and modern barbarisms. Its Norman tower, standing in the centre of the building, is surmounted by a wooden incumbent, as incongruous as tastelessness could devise; while its chancel, internally rich in that species of pure and elegant Gothic which distinguished the earliest portion of the fourteenth century, is marred by the presence of those unseemly uprights and transoms which have displaced the ramified tracery once so ornamental there. Nor is this the only spoliation Fifield has to regret. Not fifty years since, as I learn from a well-informed inhabitant, the interior of this edi- 72 SUCKLING PAPERS. fice was actually darkened with that solemn but rich gloom—the effect of stained glass_which has given place to a glare unwarmed by a single tint. An ornamented FIFIELD CHCROH. piscina, with three stalls for the ministers officiating at the ceremonies of the Romish altar, still remain, and but little injured. While the visitor will gaze with increasing admiration upon the beautiful fillet of foliage in stone-work, which surrounds the entire aperture of the large eastern window, will it be credited, that this specimen of taste and munificence remained till within these very few years covered with plaster and whitewash ? The nave and aisles have been so much altered by external modifications as to induce a supposition, at first sight, that they are of a date very inferior to the rest of the edifice ; a glance, however, at its original western entrance, now converted into a window, its cylindrical and octangular columns, and the pointed arches resting upon these, convince us that they are at least coeval with the chancel, if not of a date somewhat anterior. A large and square font of grey marble, carved with knots and semicircular arcades, (see opposite page,) witnesses to its own antiquity, and com¬ pletes the ornaments of this venerable structure, with the exception of a niche, now statueless, placed at the north east angle of the aisle. FIFIELD. 73 There is, however, worthy of observation, a singular arch, seen externally beneath the east window of the chancel. The three quatrefoils in the head of this seem once to have been perforated, and lead to a puzzling conjecture as to their original purpose. At first, I was inclined to imagine that the floor of the chancel might have been at one time raised sufficiently high to admit of a vault or crypt beneath it, to which these openings would suitably enough have afforded air and a glimmering of light; but an inspection of the interior immediately refuted such a notion. Could they possibly have been used to produce any effect at the high altar ? There are also two or three arches, now closed with masonry, very singularly situated in the lower part of the tower on the south side, the uses of which it is equally difficult to explain. THE FONT AT FIFIELP. MONUMENTS. In the interior of the church are the following monumental records :— 1. Here lies the late virtuous and lamented Mrs. Ann Beverley, who was born 13th of August, 1680, and died September 29th, 1702; which Ann was the eldest daughter of James, the eldest L 74 SUCKLING PAPERS. son of Thomas Beverley, late of Gaynes Park, in the county of Huntingdon, Esq re , and Ann, his wife, the daughter of Thomas Duncombe of Broughton, in the county of Bucks, Esq re . The above named Thomas Beverley, and his wife Elizabeth, lye interred on the left hand of this stone, close to it. 2. Here lies the body of Thomas Brand, Esq re , who departed this life the 7th of October, 1718. Also, Margaret, relict of the said Thomas Brand, Esq 1- ., who departed this life 29th of August, 1767. 3. Here lyeth the body of John Collins, the elder, who departed this life the 18th of August, 1729, in the 82 year of his age. Also, the body of Mary, his wife, who departed this life the 28th day of Febry, 1732, in the 81st year of her age. 4. Here lieth the body of John Collins, late of Sambpitts in this parish, Esq re , who departed this life September 17th, 1750, in the 74th year of his age. He was a good and affectionate husband, father, and friend; and as he lived in the practise of every Christian virtue, so he met death with great composure of mind, from a stedfast hope of a joyful resurrection and the life everlasting. On the right hand side lyeth his wife, Mrs. Mary Collins, and their son John Collins, who died June 23rd, 1731, in the 19th year of his age. 5. Here lies the body of Mrs. Mary Collins, the wife of John Collins, the younger, of this parish, Gent., who lived virtuously, and died much lamented, the 9th of October, mdccxiv, in the xxx year of her age. In the chancel are the following armorial ensigns on escocheons against the wall:— 1. Berwick .... Arg. three bears’ heads erased sable, muzzled, or. 0 ( Sable, two swords saltirewise arg. pommelled, within a bordure engrailed C argent. 3. Vert, a griffin erect or, impaling— ^ ( Gules, a saltire argent, on a chief of the second, three griffins’ heads C erased of the field. This church is kept in a very neat and reputable state. I forgot to observe in its proper place, that amongst the heads carved on the stalls in the chancel, is a grotesque face, with a fool’s cap. HUTTON. lhis village is in the hundred of Barnstable. From the Saxon At-a-how, and How-tun, we have the modern Hutton, signifying the village on the hill. The manor has been held in late days by the families of Cory and Forbes; and on the death of HUTTON. 15 James Forbes, Esq., in 1829, was purchased by the late Alderman Scholey. The entire parish is rated at £758 towards the land tax. The church is dedicated to All Saints, and was formerly appropriated by the monks of Battle Abbey, in Sussex, who enjoyed its revenues till the dissolution of religious houses, and subsequently to that important event they have passed with the manor. The advowson of the vicarage has been possessed by the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s ever since the year 1325. As to the architecture of this very small edifice, it may be described in a few words. A roof of tile covers at one slope a nave with its two aisles, separated by an arcade of pointed arches, resting on columns composed of four cylindrical clustered shafts, having plainly moulded capitals, and corresponding bases. Attached to the eastern extremity is a chancel of suitable proportions, but having no pretensions to architectural embellishment or taste. At the west end is a small wooden turret, supported internally by beams of timber, which contains five bells. The font is a modern circular bason, presented in 1719, standing on an ancient octangular base. A north and south door, opening into the centre of the walls of their respective aisles, originally afforded entrance to the congregation, and each was furnished with a pic¬ turesque porch of carved wood-work. That on the south side is, however, now closed with masonry, and its porch demolished. DONATIONS. On a small parchment, inclosed in a black frame and covered with glass, are re¬ corded the following benefactions to the parish of Hutton :— “ White’s Charity. —20th of June, 17th of Queen Elizabeth. By indenture, George White of Hutton, Esquire, did enfeoff and convey unto John Payne and George Wharton, and other persons, and their heirs, all that croft of land called Portgere, containing 9 acres, lying in Hutton. In trust, to receive yearly for ever the rents and profits, and according to their discretion to give and dispose thereof to such poor people as now do, or shall in time to come, inhabit in the parish of Hutton, as live in great poverty, necessity, or want. Also, in repairing the parish church of Hutton from time to time as it is required. “ 7th December, 1813.—By deed, then dated, the following persons were ap¬ pointed trustees of the above charity: James Forbes, Esq r . 5 James Mabbs, Gentle¬ man ; John French, ditto; Edward Abrams, Farmer.” “ Also, the interest of one thousand pounds, three per cent, redeemed stock, be¬ queathed to the minister and churchwardens of the parish of Hutton, for the benefit L 2 76 SUCKLING PAPERS. of the poor of the said parish, by the late Mr. Stephen Martin, Gentleman, of Brent¬ wood, who died the 9th of January, 1805.” TOMBS. Of these Hutton Church furnishes but few. On a stone, now lying transversely on the floor of the chancel, and near the first step of the communion rails, are two figures in brass, representing a warrior and his lady. At their feet appears a family group, consisting of eight sons and as many daughters. The inscription and ar¬ morial cognizance originally appertaining to these are lost, so that we cannot recover the names of these persons, though their dress unequivocally refers the period of their existence to the latter portion of the fifteenth century, and probably to about the reign of Richard the Third. The value of these sepulchral brasses, as faithful specimens of costume, is ex¬ ceedingly great; and their fidelity in this point is most decidedly proved, by com¬ paring those of parallel dates in various quarters of the kingdom. From North¬ umberland to the Land’s End, we shall find a wonderful similarity, as well in execu¬ tion as in design. I may further observe, of these sepulchral monuments, that their origin and decline are marked by very distinct and remarkable differences. They seem to have been introduced at once, large and bold, yet simple and elegant. They ended in complicated design, and tasteless execution. Within a century of their first appearance, they had nearly reached their perfection, and as the arts are justly thought to be ever on the increase or the wane, they gradually declined from that period in size and elegance. Indeed, after 1500, we rarely meet with a beautiful ex¬ ample of this species of decoration. Half a century later and they had wofully degene¬ rated ; innumerable scratches supplying the place of bold and sweeping outlines, and destroying that breadth of effect which is equally pleasing in these monumental effi¬ gies, as in the higher art of painting. I find the usage of this species of monument lingering on, still reduced in size, till so low a date as 1685, when they had become mere caricatures. I have met with no examples later than this period, nor is it probable that many exist. It may be mentioned, in addition to these observations, that at the era of the first introduction of these monuments, the figures were single and large; and the only ornament, independent of that attached to the person, was a shield or two of arms, placed near the head of the warrior. But these were soon extended to four escocheons, one laid at each corner of the stone. Next followed a slight canopy; the figure still remaining single, and principally, if not entirely, ap¬ propriated to males. The next change in the progress of this kind of funereal deco¬ ration was ,the introduction of female effigies, the wife being represented as stand- HUTTON. 77 ing beneath an arched canopy by the side of her husband, and in the devotional at¬ titude adopted from the first. The curve of the arches in these canopies accorded strictly with that used in the buildings of a like era, and may at last be found nearly flat. The legend, commemorative of the actions and obituaries of the deceased, was usually a circumscription of brass, deeply engraven, and placed near the figures, if on a flat stone ; but round the edge, bevelled off, if laid on an altar-tomb. About the year 1400, however, this usage fluctuated a little, and soon after gave way en¬ tirely to an inscription, sometimes placed at the head, but most commonly at the feet of the effigies. Increasing in ornament with the increasing fashion for architectural enrichment, we at length find these figures attended with their children, and kneeling before faldstools or low altars, and not unfrequently splendidly enamelled and gilt. In this case, however, they were attached to the walls, as walking over them would speedily have destroyed their beautiful finishing. Occasionally, about this period, the con¬ joined position of the hands is opened, and the figures thrown into a more lively atti¬ tude. After the middle of the fifteenth century, the custom of placing the figures on the bodies of lions and dogs seems to have gone by; and they are represented as either kneeling on cushions or standing on a plot of ground, which finally became highly ornamented with leaves and flowers. Subsequently to the reign of Henry the Seventh, we rarely, if ever, meet with canopies; and the usage, as well as the execution of brass sepulchral monuments rapidly declined, till the time of Queen Elizabeth, after whose reign they are below criticism. To develope, by a series of drawings, the gradual and successive changes in these very beautiful monumental memorials, would be a pleasing, though laborious, task; yet one which the second consideration would not deter the writer from undertaking, had he still possessed the sketches from which his drawings were originally made. His present mass of materials, however, though considerable, must be still enlarged, which his almost daily occupation and increasing love of the subject is rapidly effect¬ ing ; and it is not improbable, that should health and eyesight be continued to him by the gracious Dispenser of these blessings, he may eventually produce a volume, in MS., at least®, exhibiting, in distinct classes, the progressive changes which all- powerful fashion has wrought in the military, ecclesiastic, and feminine costumes of our ancestors. And surely the simplest notices of those men must ever be delightful and instructive, whose wisdom has formed the groundwork of our excellent constitu¬ tion, and whose valour achieved the glories of Crecy, of Poictiers, and of Agincourt. a This intention has, in most part, been carried out by the diffusion of this very interesting investigation and illustration, in all the subsequent volumes of the Suckling Papers.—E d. 78 SUCKLING PAPERS. But to return from this long digression. The next monument to he noticed in the church of Hutton lies also in the chancel. It is a small plate of brass thus in- scribed, in black letter:—• Here lyeth George White, Esquier, the sonne of Richard White, the sonne of Richard White, Esquiers, which George died the xiv day of June, in the yere of our Lord God 1584. This is undoubtedly the monument of the George White, mentioned in a former page, as a benefactor to the poor of Hutton. On mural slabs, in the south aisle, are the two following memorials: 1. To the memory of Thomas Cory, Esq re , Lord of this manor of Hutton, borne at Greate Fransom, in county of Norfolke, one of the Benchers of the Inner Temple, London, Chiefe Protonotory of the Court of Common Pleas at Westminster, who, after 18 yeares faithfull dis¬ charge of that office, devoutly resigned up his soule into the hands of God his Saviour, the 16 of December, 1656, astatis suae 65. This monument was erected by his most sad and deere wife, Judith, one of y e daughters of Sir Christopher Clitherow, Knight, and sometimes Lord Maior of the city of London. Also, the saide Judith departed this life the sixth day of June, 1663, and lies interred by her most deere and lovinge husband neere this place. 2. Sacred to the memory of James Forbes, Esquire, of this parish, and of Kingerlock, in the county of Argyle, in North Britain, who departed this life on the 23rd of March, 1829, aged 76 years. Also, of Charlotte, (his first wife,) who departed this life on the 17th of July, 1794, aged- years. And also of Sarah, (his second wife,) who departed this life at Cheltenham on the 7th of Feb. 1831, aged 49 years. And of John Forbes, (the youngest son,) of the above James and Sarah Forbes, who departed this life on the 18th of March, 1830, and was buried at Tunbridge, in the county of Kent, aged 14 years. Also, of James Forbes, Esq r ., (the eldest son of the above James and Sarah Forbes,) who departed this life on the 25th of Nov r , 1830, aged 27 years. On the floor of the nave :— 3. In memory of Donald Campbell, Esq re , of Barbreek, N.B. He died June 5, 1801, aged 53 years. With talents and a heart that might have rendered him useful in society in his career through life, he unfortunately ran to the wrong side of the post, and owing to peculiar circum¬ stances, has experienced a good deal of worldly persecution, but looks up to a merciful God (who always knows our most inward motives) for everlasting bliss. LondBD.PnMLshEd.bj JolmWeale, atius Archiiectural J-ihiary; 63Hi gh TT^ -h n-m JaT ma-r jl 31 - IB45. Printed, by Standidge Jc C? CHELMSFORD. 79 CHELMSFORD. A church existed from very early times in this town, though neither the date of its foundation nor the name of its founder has survived. This building, falling into decay, was re-edified soon after the year 1400, as an inscription, formerly to be seen on the south side of the battlements, informed us. And indeed the western tower and other portions of architecture which remain of that second erection confirm such a relation. * "W ith regard to the existing structure, it is a compound of modern restorations, grafted upon the fragments of a better taste. On the evening of the 12th of January, 1800, the greater part of the walls, with the entire roof, having suddenly given way, fell to the ground with a tremendous crash. The inhabitants, with a zeal truly laudable, immediately determined upon the restoration of their “ fallen pile;” and it is to be lamented that their desires met not with an architect competent to restore its original features. But the genius of Gothic architecture was at that period but just emerging from the ignorance and neglect which had so long enveloped her ; and it is perhaps well that these restorations are no worse. The record of this event is preserved by a Latin inscription over the chancel door, which may be thus trans¬ lated :—“ A part of this edifice, dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, which, after having been decayed through age, was rebuilt in the year of our Lord, 1424, by certain pious subscriptions, having, on the evening of the 12th of January, 1800, suddenly fallen ; the inhabitants of Chelmsford, determined to re-edify and decorate with new ornaments this portion, at their own expense, employed Johnson, the archi¬ tect, for that purpose. This very sacred work, for which an act of parliament was granted, having been commenced on the 21st of June 1800, and after three years and as many months, having been completed, John Morgan, S.T.B., the reverend rector of Chelmsford, performed divine service in it again, on the Sunday of Sep¬ tember the 18th, 1803.” The entire tower, with the beautiful south porch and the shafts of the nave and chancel, appear to have escaped destruction, and are incorporated into the modern work. The arches of the nave are pointed, and sustained on shafts whose horizontal section represents a truncated lozenge; the mouldings of the arches being continued throughout their entire length without the intervention of a capital. On the north side of the chancel is a rather flattened Norman arch, supported in the centre by mouldings which rest on the capitals of a clustered column. This is probably coeval with the first structure raised here. 80 SUCKLING PAPERS. The interior length of this church is one hundred and twenty feet; the nave and aisles measuring one hundred and two feet, and their breadth being fifty-four. Amidst a vast many mural monuments and floor-stones may be particularized the vault of the ancient family of Mildmay, in which repose the ashes of Benjamin, Earl Fitzwalter, and Frederica, his countess, daughter of the gallant Duke of Schom- berg. It is recorded, that fanatical fury destroyed a very beautiful east window of stained glass, representing the crucifixion of our Saviour, and other passages in his sacred history. Its situation is occupied in the new chancel by a window of modern colouring,—like all other modern painted glass, garish and inharmonious. HATFIELD PEVERELL. The priory of Hatfield Peverell owes its origin to the remorse of Ingelrica, the daughter of a Saxon nobleman, and mistress of William the Conqueror. This lady, in atonement for the errors of her early life, founded in this village a college for secu¬ lar canons, very appositely dedicating it to Mary Magdalen. Within its walls she spent in papal austerities her latter years, and dying in 1100, was buried in the collegiate church. Such is a brief epitome of the early history of this institution; and such, were they generally known, would probably appear the motives which actuated the founders of the greater part of our conventual establishments. Rapine, homicide, and lust, (it is a melancholy truth to admit,) so completely governed our ancestors of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, that to the remorse of after age, I fear, and not to the real desire of promoting the influence of religion, may be ascribed the erection of those numerous monasteries whose ruins are yet visible. To show that this recital of our ancestral vices is not a distorted or fanciful sketch, I quote a few lines from a contemporary writer, (the author of the Saxon Chronicle,) who draws the following picture of the atrocities of those ages : “ They grievously oppressed the poor people with building castles ; and when they were built, they filled them with wicked men, or rather devils, who seized both men and women who they imagined had any money, threw them into prison, and put them to more cruel tortures than the martyrs ever endured. They suffocated some in mud, and suspended others by the feet, or the head, or the thumbs, kindling fires below them. They squeezed the heads of some with knotted cords, till they pierced the brains, while they threw others into dungeons swarming with serpents, snakes, and toads.” a a We give faithfully the author’s own words, although we think the fact questionable as applied to a more subsequent age.—E d. HATFIELD PEVERELL. 81 Their licentiousness was so great, that the Princess Matilda, daughter of Mai- colm Canmore, king of Scotland, and afterwards queen of Henry the First of Eng¬ land, being educated in the latter kingdom, was obliged to wear the veil of a nun to preserve her honour from being violated by the Normans. The princess herself affirmed, before a great council of the clergy of England, that this was the only reason of her having worn the veil, and the council admitted the validity of her plea in these remarkable words :—“ When the great king William conquered this land, many of his followers, elated by so great a victory, and thinking that every thing ought to be subservient to their will and pleasure, not only seized the possessions of the con¬ quered, but invaded the honour of their matrons and virgins, with the most unbridled wantonness, whenever they had an opportunity. This obliged many young ladies, who dreaded their violence, to take shelter in nunneries, and to put on the veil, to preserve their honour.” 1 Again, Henry of Huntingdon informs us b , “ the great men were inflamed with such a violent rage for money, that they cared not by what means it was acquired. Sheriffs and judges, whose duty it was to pronounce righteous judgments, were the most cruel of all tyrants, and greater plunderers than common thieves and robbers.” Such being the state of public morals in this kingdom at the above period, mv position, I fear, must be allowed to be too truly founded; and can we be too thank¬ ful that we live in an age, when the purity of true religion is better understood and practised, and when man is taught that a life of undeviating exertion in doing well, is a more acceptable offering to his Maker, than the founding of a rich monastic establishment ? It appears from history, that upon the decay of Ingelrica’s beauty, she was per¬ mitted by her royal seducer to marry Ranulph Peverell, one of his most distinguished followers at Hastings. By this nobleman, who obtained from his monarch’s favour sixty-four manors, Ingelrica left a legitimate son, William Peverell, who, on his mo¬ ther’s decease, converted her college into a priory of Benedictine monks, making it a subordinate cell to the great establishment at Saint Alban’s, in Hertfordshire, and placing it under the patronage of the Virgin Mary. Matthew Paris relates, that on the 14th of March, 1231, the greatest part of this structure was destroyed by fire. What injury the habitable part of the convent sustained by this conflagration, it is now impossible to ascertain; but it appears very probable, from an examination of the chapel, which now exists in a very perfect state as a parochial church, that its eastern portion was consumed. The western entrance is a semicircular doorway, not very deeply recessed, ornamented with a zigzag or chevron moulding, resting on two a Eadmeri Historia, 1. iii. p. 57- b Lib. viii. p. 212. AT 82 SUCKLING PAPERS. plain cylindrical columns, without bases, and whose capitals are square, and by no means boldly cut. This must be a portion of Ingelrica’s original structure ; and the entire church was doubtless erected in a corresponding style. At the north-east ano-le of the aisle may, however, he seen, in a very perfect state, one of those elegant windows which distinguished the latter period of “ Third Henry’s feeble minion- guided rule.” And to his period, in consequence of this conflagration, I ascribe the octangular shafts and pointed arches of the entire edifice. It is needless to observe, that the other windows are a later insertion. According to Tanner, this monastery maintained only four monks and a prior, the last of whom was Richard Snowdall. At the time of its suppression, its annual value was £60 14«. 11 \d., according to Dugdale ; though Speed, giving perhaps its gross valuation, has raised its revenues to £83 19s. Id. Upon the dissolution of religious houses, it was conveyed by Henry the Eighth to Giles Leigh, Esq. ; and is now possessed by a Mr. Wright, whose ancestor ob¬ tained it about the middle of the eighteenth century. This gentleman made some trifling repairs and additions to the ancient structure, in a style far from good, and recorded his “ improvements,” by inserting the following inscriptions, cut on two slabs of hard stone, into the western wall of the church:— Ingelrica, filia fonnosa Saxonis nobilis, uxor Ranulphi Peverelli hujus villas domini, Gulielmo primo perfamiliaris atq. arnica molliorum tandem amoris deliciarum pertsesa, et ad sanctiorem vitas normarn sese revocans, asdem hance in pios usus fundavit, atq. in eadem sepulta est circa Ann. m.c. gEdes hasc nitidior fiebat ornatiorque sedesq. haud ita longe de novo prorsus fundamine in socios humanioris vitae usus, quasi auspicatius extruebatur a Johanne Wright, in cujus posses¬ sionem horum omnium dominium transibat, An. mdcclxiv. The exterior appearance of this conventual church will he gathered from the accompanying engraving. It is taken from the present churchyard, a spacious area, part of which probably formed the monks’ burial ground. Judging from the two modern west towers, now crowned with spires of timber, the original struc¬ ture had two heavy Norman towers, as very commonly seen on buildings of that period, between which was the grand entrance under a circular doorway, which yet exists. The interior architecture, as already observed, presents a series of pointed arches resting on octagonal pillars, which separates the nave from a north aisle. There does not seem to have been a corresponding wing on the south side, though a very lofty chapel or transept remains in this direction, now converted by Mr. Wright into a family pew. The eastern portion of the aisle was also divided from the rest of the building by a screen of oak, and appropriated as a private chapel, in HATFIELD PEVERELL. 83 which it is not improbable masses were offered for the repose of the foundress’s soul, whose effigy, in full proportion, is carved in stone, and placed beneath the north window. This figure was most likely executed after the great fire, as the style of its drapery is of a date subsequent to the period of Ingelrica’s death. I regret that this church was occupied for public purposes on the day of my visit, which prevented my taking a drawing of this sepulchral memorial, and indeed only permitted me a hasty glance round the interior. I observed on the floor a group of figures cut in brass, and kneeling before a low altar or faldstool. In the windows are several coats of armorial bearings, among which I observed those of England and France, quarterly. France being, as usual in early times, in the first quarter. On the west doors, which are modern, are painted these cognizances:— Barry of four arg. and az. on a chief of the second, leopards’ faces or, impaling quarterly, 1 and 4, harry of six, or and az.—2 and 3 sab. a chev. engr. or, charged with 3 fleurs de lis az. int. six cross croslets fitchee or. Also, Sab. a cross potent or, impales, ermine, on a chevron sabl. 3 bezants. None of these bearings belong to the family of Peverell. The present preferment is of course a vicarage ; and the annual stipend amounts to only £13 6s. 8 d., paid by the owner of the priory. As this sum, multiplied by five, gives an amount of £66 13s. 4c?., a mean difference between the valuation of Dugdale and Speed of the total annual revenues of the priory, enjoyed by the superior and his four monks, it is highly probable that, upon the dissolution, as the church service was in future to be performed by one ecclesiastic only, instead of five as heretofore, that a fifth part of the rental was intended to be set aside for his maintenance, hut that succeeding impropriators have interpreted by the letter, and not by the spirit of the law. £25 a year has been generously added to this pittance, by Sir Edmund Allen. The learned Doctor Castell, S.T.P., was vicar of this parish, which he held with the rectory of Higham Gohyon, in Bedfordshire, where he is buried. His character for profound erudition is firmly established by his Lexicon Heptaglotton, a work now usually sold with the Polyglott Bible, in the compilation of which also he largely assisted. For a further account of this learned and amiable man, consult D’lsraeli’s “ Calamities of Authors,” volume II., page 226, note. Five hundred copies of this Dictionary, upon which he had expended incredible labour for seventeen years, brought him but £7, though a single edition at the present day fetches forty or fifty guineas. m 2 84 SUCKLING PAPERS. BRADFIELD. Bradfield church comprises a nave and chancel, without aisles. The chancel was originally lighted with lancet windows, but of these, two only remain on the north side. The windows of the nave are adorned with the tracery prevalent in the latter end of the fourteenth century, but many of these are now barbarized. The low square tower at the west end was formerly open to the body of the church, but this, as is frequently the case, is now closed : it contains one bell. The font is ancient, but does not exhibit any uncommon architectural feature, or rare specimen of sculpture. TOMBS. On the chancel floor is a brass effigy of the sixteenth century, possessing more boldness and less of the stiff formality which usually accompany the sepulchral monu¬ ments of this period. The inscription placed at her feet is as follows :— Here lyeth Joane Rysbye, the wife of Thomas Rysbye, Gent., daughter and heire of John Harbottell, Esq r . She lived in the feare of God, and died in the faith of Christ, in October Ano Dni. 1598, rntatis sum lx. There are several ancient gravestones lying in the chancel, deprived of their brasses and inscriptions, as also many memorials of the Harbottell and Grimston families. Amongst the descendants of these may be reckoned Sir Harbottell Grimston Master of the Rolls in the reign of Charles the Second. In the west window of the chapel belonging to that office are his arms, and this inscription placed beneath it:— Harbottellus Grimston, Baronettus, primi Parliamenti sub serenissimo Dno Rege Carolo secundo Anno regni sui duodecimo prolucutor, et Sacrorum Scriniorum Magister. From the Grimstones of this town is descended the present Viscount of the name. BRADFIELD. 85 tit Sir HARBOTTELL GRIMSTON, Bart., Master of the Rolls, temp. Car. II. Sir Capell Luckyn=Mary Grimstone, ob. 1718, set. 86. Sir William Luckyn, Bart.,=MARY, D r . of Wm. Sherington, of Messinghall, co. Essex. I Alderman of London. Sir Harbottell Luckyn, Wm. Luckyn, heir of Sir Saml. Grimston, Bart., obt. s.p. took the name of Grimston, and was created Viscount Grimston of Ireland, May 4, 1719; married Jane, D r . of James Cook, of London. Saml. Grimston zr Mary, D r . and heimWiLLiAM Wildman, I of Hen. Lovell. Visct. Barrington. James Grimston =:Mary, D r . of John Askell Bucknell. James Bucknall Grimston, created Baron Verulam of England, July, 1790. 86 SUCKLING PAPERS. DANBURY. This village, which covers the summit of the loftiest hill in Essex, is supposed to have derived its name from Danes Burgh, the camp of the Danes ; its church stand¬ ing in the centre of a very perfect fortification, which has been usually ascribed to that people. But granting that this situation was really occupied by those sanguinary warriors, it does not follow that they were the first to mark this hill as a fit spot for a military station. It is utterly impossible to suppose that a people possessing such skill in the choice of their encampments as our Roman conquerors, should overlook a spot like Danbury Hill—a conical height commanding the eastern coast, the whole country westward, and affording a view to the wary sentinel, bounded by London only. Maldon, and the country around Colchester are, moreover, both within sight; Roman stations of the first importance, all will allow, however the learned may differ with regard to their particular designations. But were further argument necessary to show that Danbury once resounded with the military clang of Roman warriors, the circumstance of their peculiarly formed bricks being worked up in the walls of the present church would alone suffice. The north aisle of this edifice de¬ mands especial attention; a remarkable mixture of stone, Roman bricks, and lumps of mortar and pebbles, united by a strong cement, composing the walls of this singular portion of the building. Viewing the country from this elevated height, reflections of unusual interest naturally arise in the mind. In the earliest periods to which authenticated history recalls our attention, our Roman masters secured this spot as a stronghold against the covert attacks of the barbarous but fearless natives. Upon the departure of these politic conquerors, a more bloody and vindictive race here displayed their banner, and hence made those eruptions upon a now debased people, which could alone be averted by mean submission or by the payment of an ill-spared tribute. Subsequently, under the Normans, their no less despotic though more polished mas¬ ters, this place still held out attractions of such a nature as to induce those chief¬ tains, to whom Danbury was apportioned, to erect here their baronial and fortified habitation. In a still later period,—and singular that period should so little precede our own,—the natural beauties of the spot induced the proprietors here also to erect their modern and more commodious mansion. And while the church, the school of Christian meekness and of Christian hope, occupies the site of the Pagan temple, the comfortable though defenceless manor house smiles on the passing traveller, where once frowned the turreted and fearful castle of the feudal lord. DANBURY. 87 But while the massive castle and the stupendous rampart have yielded to the re¬ lentless grasp of time, the same tough and knotty oaks yet flourish, and adorn the park of the nineteenth century, which beheld the stern era of the Norman rule. Long will they yet flourish! For who can employ the axe in the destruction of these monarchs of the grove, which Norman tyranny could spare, which the taste of our forefathers has respected, and which time, which antiquity, has rendered sacred ? At the period when Domesday was compiled, the manor of Danbury was held by Geoffery de Mandeville. It became subsequently the property of the Saint Cleres, in which family it remained till the time of Edward the Second, when William de Saint Clere, who had a park at Danbury, was sheriff of Essex. The estate of this family is still called Saint Clere’s manor. It then passed to the Veres, to the Greys of Wilton, to Sir Gerard Braybrook by marriage, and to the D’Arcies. Afterwards reverting to the crown, it was regranted by Edward the Sixth to William Parr, Mar¬ quis of Northampton, who alienated it to Sir Walter Mildmay, Knight, by whom the manor house, called Danbury Place, was erected. It has since become the property of the family of Fytche, and is at present in the care of the Lord Chancellor. The church at Danbury consists of a nave, chancel, and north and south aisle; the latter is of modern construction, and, as may be conjectured, of red brick : the north aisle, however, retains windows of Edward the First’s time, and is the burial place of the lords of the manor. The columns of this edifice are formed by four cylindrical shafts, clustered, and banded at the top by plainly moulded capitals, dhe chancel is entered on the south by a long and very narrow door ; but the windows are of the fashion prevailing at the latter part of the fifteenth century. A square tower at the west end is still surmounted by a spire, though, from its exposed situation, it has twice been injured by lightning. The north aisle, as before observed, is the burial place of the lords of the manor ; the east end of this was formerly separated from the other part of the church by a wooden screen, which recent innovations, or improvements, as they are termed, have removed; but it still retains the effigies of three crusaders, unquestionably of the family of Saint Clere. Of these, two only were originally placed here, beneath low surbased arches in the north wall; the third was deposited, tastelessly enough, on a red brick basement, (but let us be thankful that it was preserved,) when the south aisle was rebuilt: previously to that event it reclined in a corresponding niche in that part of the church. About fifty years since, the body of one of these crusaders was accidentally discovered by the sexton, inclosed in a leaden coffin; hut it would be doing injustice to the subject to record this interesting discovery in any words but those of an eye witness : he says, “On the 16th of October, 1779 } as some work- 88 SUCKLING PAPERS. men were digging a grave for the interment of Mrs. Frances Fytche, in the north aisle of the parish church of Danbury, Essex, just beneath a niche in the north wall, wherein is placed the effigy of a man in armour carved in wood, in a recumbent pos¬ ture and cross-legged, they discovered, about thirty inches from the surface of the pavement, beneath a very massy stone, a leaden coffin without any inscription thereon, or marks where any had been affixed. Judging that this coffin inclosed the body of the Knight Templar represented by the effigy, I communicated my opinion to the late Rev. Mr. De L’Angle, the then very worthy rector, and Lewis Densey Fytche, Esq., of Danbury Place, churchwarden, who, concurring in the same idea, resolved to open the coffin, but deferred it a day or two, to avail themselves of the company and inform¬ ation of the late Dr. Gower, of Chelmsford, an eminent physician and antiquary, who was requested to attend on the Monday following. Some professional engage¬ ments deprived us of the doctor’s company and observations ; however, the workmen proceeded to open the coffin. On raising the lid, there was discovered an elm coffin inclosed, about one fourth of an inch thick, very firm and entire. On removing the lid of this coffin, it was found to inclose a shell, about three quarters of an inch thick, which was covered over with a thick cement, of a dark olive colour and of a resinous nature. The lid of this shell being carefully taken off, we were presented with a view of the body, lying in a liquor or pickle, somewhat resembling mushroom catsup, but of a paler complexion, and somewhat thicker consistence. As I never pos¬ sessed the sense of smelling, and was willing to ascertain the flavour of the liquor, I tasted, and found it to be aromatic, though not very pungent, partaking of the taste of catsup and of the pickle of Spanish olives. The body was tolerably perfect; no part appearing decayed hut the throat and part of one arm. The flesh everywhere, except on the face and throat, appeared exceedingly white and firm. The face was of a dark colour, approaching to black. The throat, which was much lacerated, was of the same colour. The body was covered with a kind of shirt of linen, not unlike Irish cloth, of the fineness of what is now usually retailed at three shillings per yard. A narrow rude antique lace was affixed to the bosom of the shirt; the stitches were very evident, and attached very strongly. The linen adhered rather closely to the body, but on my raising it from the breast, to examine the state of the skin more minutely, a considerable piece was torn off with part of the lace on it. This I have in my possession, for the inspection of the curious; it is in good preservation, and of considerable strength. The coffin not being half full of the pickle, the face, breast, and belly were of course not covered with it. The inside of the body seemed to be filled with some substance which rendered it very hard. There was no hair on the head, nor do I DANBURY. 89 remember any in the liquor, though feathers, flowers, and herbs in abundance were floating, the leaves and stalks of which appeared quite perfect, but totally discoloured. The appearance of the feathers helped us to discover the cause of the dark appear¬ ance of the face and throat. The coffin was not placed in a position exactly horizon¬ tal : the feet being at least three inches lower than the head, the greater part of the liquor consequently remained at the feet. The pillow which supported the head, in process of time decayed, and the head unsupported fell back, lacerating the throat and neck, which with the face appeared to have been discoloured from the decay of the cloth or substance that covered them. The jaws, when first discovered, were closed, but on being somewhat rudely touched, expanded, owing, as was supposed, to the breaking of some bandage that bound them together. When the jaws were opened, they exhibited a set of teeth perfectly white, which was likewise the colour of the palate, and all the inside of the mouth. “ Whether the legs were crossed or not must for ever remain a doubt, though I am strongly of opinion that they were; for one of the gentlemen pushing a walking- stick rather briskly from the knees to the ancles, the left foot separated from the leg somewhere about the ancle. “ The limbs were of excellent symmetry. The general appearance of the whole body conveyed the idea of hearty youth, not in the least emaciated by sickness. “ The whole length of the corpse very little exceeded five feet, though the shell which inclosed it was five feet six inches within. After the above remarks were made, the church doors were opened, and the parishioners and others having satisfied their curiosity, the shell and the wooden coffin were fastened down, the leaden coffin was again soldered, and the whole left, as near as circumstances would admit, in statu quo.” In a letter published by Mr. Strutt in 1789, he expressed himself convinced that the mode of burying in pickle was not so old as the time of the Knights Templars. “ This body,” he says, “ was not one of those old warriors: it lay at some distance from the wall, and was covered with a large flat stone, on which was a cross fleury, and formerly an inscription on brass, not unlikely the following mentioned by Weever:— “ Hie jacet Geraldus quondam filius et Heres Gerardi Braybrooke Militis, qui obiit xxix Marci mccccxxii.” And this body, as the inscription indicates, was probably that of the son and heir of the above knight, buried in this expensive manner. N 90 SUCKLING PAPERS. The above observations of Mr. Strutt, that this was not the body of one of these crusaders, are not, in my opinion, quite conclusive. That the coffin should lie at some little distance from the wall was most likely to be the case: for who would undermine the foundations of the very structure which he intended should cover the ashes of his family for centuries ? And it is most probable, if not certain, that the crusaders learned and introduced into England the various methods of embalm¬ ing corpses, with the other oriental arts and customs which they are known to have imported. Having treated these matters at some length, it is high time to re-enter the church. The general plan and the style of this edifice have been already stated, and we shall find little to detain us after noticing the effigies in question. Nos. 1 and 2 lie under arches in the north wall, and the third is placed against the east end of the same aisle. “ These effigies,” says Mr. White, the author of the interesting account just quoted, “are all cross-legged; the feet of each are supported by a lion ; but every lion and every man are in a different position. One knight is in a praying attitude, his hands being folded together, his sword sheathed ; the lion which supports his feet seems to lie quite at his ease, with his face turned towards the knight’s face ; that is, as I conceive it, towards home. Perhaps this is emblem¬ atic of the knight’s having returned from the crusades, and died at home in peace. “ Another of the knights is in the act of drawing his sword ; the lion at his feet appears less pacific than the former, and his head turned from the knight’s face. That this expresses the crusader having died in the Holy Wars, seems, I think, very likely. “ The third knight is represented as returning his sword into the scabbard; the lion in a position different from the other two, as he neither looks directly to nor from the face of the knight, but straight forward, and seems journeying on. This, it is probable, represents the crusader as having died in his passage from the wars.” “ But these are the mere conjectures of a man who does not desire to impose them on the public as of any weight, but wishes for information on so curious a subject.” These conjectures of Mr. White, though I allow them to be ingenious, are refuted at once by the well-known fact, that at least one half of those knights, whose memo¬ ries are perpetuated by effigies similar to these at Danbury, were never engaged in the crusades ; the mere circumstance of having taken the vow of fighting for the Holy Land, entitling them to this honourable mode of sepulture. DANBURY. 91 The more modern monuments are as follow :_ In chancel:— 1. Hie jacet Johannes Mildmay Armig: Filius Humfredi Mildmay Militis in Comitatu Essexias, Obiit Aug. 10, 1673. (Arms : Mildmay.) 2. Hoc lapide tegitur Humfredus Mildmay Armiger patre natus Waltero Mildmay Saccarij Cancellario et Consillario Secretoris Admissionis R. Elizabetae Matre Maria Walsingham sorore Francisci Walsingham eidem Reginas a secretis—Qui diu publice utilis, domi Hospitalis, sexagenarius, Obiit nono Augusti, 1613. (Arms: Mildmay and Quarterings.) 3. Hie situs est Edouardus Mildmay filius natu tertius Humfredi Mildmay Equ: Aurati, et Johannas Croftes Filias Johannis Croftes de Saxham Equ: Aur: quern tenera adhuc aetate magna promittentem mors acerba intercessit, 22 Feb. A. 1635. 4. In memory of Mrs. Margaret D’. L’Angle, widow of the Rev d Theophilus D’. L’Angle, buried in this chancel March the 14th, 1782, aged 80 years. And also of their only son, John Maximilian D\ L’Angle, Rector of this parish and Wood- ham Ferrers. Buried in this chancel June the 5th, 1783, aged 60 years. This monument was erected by Sir Brook Bridges, Bail;., the Patron. Arms: Nicoll. 5. Near this place lyeth the body of John Nicoll, Gent., who departed this life the 13th of Sept. 1690, aged about 58 yeares. 2 92 SUCKLING PAPERS. Arms: Langham. 6. Hie jacet Thomas Langham, Gen. qui natus erat 16 Septem. Aiio Dom. 1622, obyit 25 Jan. 1669. Also, here lieth ye body of Sarah Nicoll, relict of Tho. Langham above named, late wife of John Nicol of Danbury, in ye county of Essex, Gent., and daughter of Thos. Turgis, Esq'., late of London, obt. 9 of Jan. Anno Dom. 1683, aged 54. Arms: Wither. 7. George Wither, obiit, Novem. 15, 1605, aged 80. Arms : Master and quarterings, impaling Tumor. 8. Near this place lyeth the body of Joyce Master, it being her desire to be buried where she died. She was relict of James Master of East Langden, in the county of Kent, Esq r . The only daughter of Sir Christopher Tumor, of Milton Earnest, in the county of Bedford, one of the Barons of the Court of Exchequer, in the reign of King Charles the Second, by Joyce, his wife, daughter of Sir Thomas Warwick, Gentleman Usher to Queen Ann, the consort of King James the First, and of the board of Green Cloth, by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Hugh, Lord Sommevil. She had four sons and ten daughters. Her only surviving son, Streynsham Master, Esq r ., married Elizabeth, the only daughter and heiress of Richard Oxendon of Brook, in the parish of Wingham, in the county of Kent, Esq r ., and departed this life June 22, 1724, aged 42 years, and lyes there interred, leaving no issue. Of the daughters three only have issue : Margaret, the eldest, married to George Byng, Lord Viscount Torrington; Joyce, married the Rev d Tho s Pocock Amers; and Isabella, married to John Bramstone, of Boreham, in this county, Esq r . She departed this life January the 27th, 17££, at Danbury Place, in this parish, aged 73. DEDHAM. Dedham is a very pleasant village, situated on the southern bank of the river Stour, and adjoining the high road leading from Ipswich to Colchester. It has a WIDFORD. 93 noble church, with a lofty square tower, and a free grammar school; the foundation of* the latter is of very early hut uncertain date. The master’s house was originally granted for that purpose by a Mrs. Joan Clark, but in what year is unknown. William Cardinall, a native of this, town, in 1539, gave a farm in Great Bromley, the rent of which he desired might be divided be¬ tween two poor scholars, natives of Dedham and Much Bromley, and sent from the school to Cambridge. William Littlebury, Gent., of Dedham, by will, dated July the 20th, 1571, bequeathed a farm called Ragmarsh, lying in Bradfield and Wrab- ness, rented at £20 per annum, for the maintenance of the schoolmaster, whom he obliged to teach, in consideration thereof, twenty scholars, such as the governors approved of. This donation was afterwards confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, and the governors incorporated by the Queen’s Charter, bearing date May the 14th, 1574. The school is called “ Queen Elizabeth’s Free Grammar School.” A further bequest was also made to this establishment in 1610, when Edmund Sherman, clothier, of Dedham, gave a schoolhouse, over against the church, with a yard and garden adjoining, to be a dwelling-house for the writing master. The governors, twenty-four in number, are trustees of the schoolhouse and farms. The master must be a graduate of one of the universities. The parents of the boys educated here are enjoined by Queen Elizabeth to furnish them with bows, shafts, bracers, and gloves, in order to train them to arms. WIDFORD. Widford, a small parish in the hundred of Chelmsford, derives its name from the width of the ford, which the river here presented—a circumstance sufficiently important to procure it that appellation, in times when travelling was rendered diffi¬ cult and often dangerous by the necessity of fording the numerous rivers which every¬ where intersected the country. The modern traveller, whirling in his easy convey¬ ance over the smooth roads of the present day, may be inclined to smile at the ap¬ parent simplicity of such a derivation, but let him for a moment picture to himself the state of the kingdom during the Saxon era. Let him imagine himself journey¬ ing (even towards London if he will) without a hedge-row to direct him in his course ; the face of the country obscured by thick woods ; the half-tracked way interrupted by watercourses, which undrained bogs and morasses swelled to thrice their present importance, without any bridge to facilitate his progress or relieve him from the uncomfortable and probably dangerous expedient of wading through the stream, and he will, I think, readily acknowledge that a name implying the little 94- suckling PAPERS. opposition here offered to his progress, is not derived from a circumstance trifling or unimportant*. The manor of Widford has passed in succession from Edward of Woodstock, who held it in the year 1329, to Roger de Mortimer, and to the families of Cloville, Altham, and Judge. The church comprises a nave and chancel, a north transept of red brick, and a small loft at the western end containing two hells. The whole is neatly and reput¬ ably fitted up, but not distinguished by any peculiar architectural feature. The transept appears of the age of Henry the Eighth, though its foundation has been ascribed to a period as late as the year 1604-, probably on the authority of a piece of broken glass in the window. The remaining words of this legend are as follows :— ^acoWr^k \ am scrxxiux W matter "be (Uxbforb ac istitts ecclcsxe l)axxc capcllam ^tto J^ttx r6c>4 extras This I shall venture to fill up with these words:— Jacobus Altham Serviens ad legem Dhs Maher de Widford ac patronus Istius ecclesise, hanc capellam restituit Aho Dni 1604 cuius aia ppiciet Deus. Now, a piscina finished with tabernacle work, certainly a century earlier than this period, together with the style of the architecture, justify the conclusion that Altham was not the founder of this chapel. I therefore supply the word restituit, in preference to fundavit. a The number of towns and villages in every part of the kingdom, whose names may be derived from this adjunct in union with some adjective, is at once an unanswerable argument in favour of the position that our forefathers knew of few local circumstances more fitting to distinguish the different villages than the one now referred to: for instance, Widford (wide-ford), Deptford (deep-ford), Stratford, of frequent occurrence, (street-ford), Mutford (muddy-ford), Holford (hole-ford), Shalford (shallow-ford), Stamford and Stanford (stony-ford), Rochford (rocky-ford), Rushford, Sedgford, Woodford, Oldford, Brockford, Horseford, &c., &c., whose derivation is sufficiently obvious. Sometimes towns obtain their distinguishing appellative from the rivers themselves: as Chelmsford, from the river Chelmer, Orford, from the Ore, and many others. WIDFORD. 95 The concluding part of the inscription, so much at variance with the religious ideas entertained in 1604, I cannot pretend to account for a . In the interior of the nave is a board enumerating the benefactions to the parishioners. BENEFACTIONS TO THE POOR. Sarah, Viscountess Falkland, in the year 1776, bequeathed two hundred pounds. And the Rev d John Saunders, A.M., late Rector, in 1814, one hundred pounds; the interest of which two sums is to be distributed in bread to the poor of this parish who attend divine service, by the minister and churchwardens. Benjamin Serjeant, formerly of Writtle, Gent., in the year 1787, bequeathed one hundred pounds stock, the interest of which is to be annually laid out at Christmas in the purchase of two coats and waistcoats, and two gowns and petticoats, to be given to two poor widowers, and two poor widows, parishioners of, and residing in the parish of Widford. TOMBS. On a heavy pyramidal tomb, on the outside of the church, and at the north-east angle, is this inscription:— Sarah, Viscountess Falkland, wife of Lucius Charles Viscount Falkland, Relict of Henry Howard, late Earl of Suffolk, and daughter and only child of Thomas Inwen, Esq r ., deceased, died the 27th May, 1776, aged 62. IN THE INTERIOR. In a vault by the side of his relation and benefactress, Sarah, Viscountess Falkland, are deposited the remains of William Hucks, Esq r ., of Dulwich, in the county of Surrey, who died the 26th of October, 1804, rntat. 72. To his domestic virtues, deeply engraven on her heart, his afflicted but resigned widow erects this last sad tribute of affection, in the pleasing hope of again meeting in a blessed Eternity. a The difficulty would be removed if we could possibly read 1504, instead of 1604. 96 SUCKLING PAPERS. In the same vault are deposited the remains of Sarah Hucks, relict of the above William Hucks, Esq r ., who died the 13th of August, 1810, astat. 77. HUCKS. In memory of Eliz. the wife of Richard Judge, of Widford Hall, who died 25th Nov r , 1780, aged 39 years. Also, of the said Richard Judge, who died 9 Nov r , 1787, aged 48 years. Here lyeth the body of Elizabeth, the wife of William Judge, of Widford Hall, who died Aug. 23rd, 1764, aged 62 years. Also, William Judge, who died Jan? 14th, 1778, aged 80 years. In a south window of the nave are these arms :— CLOVILLK. LANGHAM. At the time of the Conquest, Lanjham, or long village, was part of the possessions of Richard Fitz-Gilhert. Under this powerful noble, Walter Tirrel, who shot King William the Second, afterwards held the manor, and from whom it passed successively to Henry de Cornhill, to the Nevils, Bohuns, and De-la-Poles. Upon the attainder of the latter family, it fell to the crown, and was granted by Henry the Eighth to Queen Catharine of Arragon, and subsequently to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. It was again granted by the crown to Sir John and Sir George Manners, and finally sold by Charles the First to the city of London; from whence it has again passed through the families of Thayer, Hinde, &c. LANGHAM. 97 The church at Langham consists of a nave, chancel, and south aisle. This is divided from the nave by octangular pillars with plain moulded capitals, sustaining pointed arches. The windows, with few exceptions, are parted by a single mullion, and exhibit foliated tracery, which still retain a few fragments of ancient stained glass. Two porches of wood-work are still remaining ; hut the most curious archi¬ tectural novelty which this edifice presents is a singular contraction of the chancel on the south side. This may, perhaps, be better explained by a slight ground plan. The exterior of the church is not so much disfigured by this awkward arrange¬ ment as might reasonably he expected; a window of very elegant design being in¬ serted at the angle. TOMBS. The only monument which lays claim to any antiquity in this edifice is an inarched surbased tomb on the south side of the aisle, and which, though o 98 SUCKLING PAPERS. now ingeniously covered with boards, was once, probably, ornamented with an effigy. The more modern monuments are as follows :— 1. Sacred to the memory of Matilda Virginia Watson, who died August 4th, 1803, aged 16. 2. Near this place lyes interred the body of Mrs. Ann Wyvill, who departed this life on the 27 day of July, 1763, in the 67 year of her age. 3. In memory of Jacob Hinde, Esq r ., who lies interred near this place, died Dec r . 11, 1780, aged 58. Here also lieth intered the body of William Henry Hinde, Esq 1- ., the second son of Jacob Hinde, Esq r . He was bom the eleventh of Febmary, 1764, and died the 26th of Sep r . 1782, in the 19th year of his age. 4. Near this place lies inter’d the body of Mrs. Ann Hinde, relict of Jacob Hinde, Esq r ., who departed this life, April 30th, 1802, in the 66th year of her age. On the floor of the nave is an old stone with a modern inscription:— 5. Here lyeth the body of Robert Vigerous, Esq re , grandchild of the above John Vigerous, w ch Robert, after he had faythefiilly served God and his countrie as a Commissioner of the peace, dyed in that service the 78 yeare of his age, and is nowe gathered to the Sepulcher of his Fathers, the 14 of July, Ano Dni, 1629. On the chancel floor, with the arms of Umfrevile :— 6. Here lyes the body of Isabella Umfrevile, (the daughter of William Umfrevile, Esq 1- ., of this parish, deceased,) who departed this life ye 7 of Nov 1- , a.d. 1681. To whose memory, Wil¬ liam Umfrevile, her brother, in token of love and gratitude, laid this stone. 7. H. S. E. Carolus Umfrevile miles De Stoke juxta Nayland Com: Suffolc: Filius Willelmi Umfrevile ex hac villa Armigeri, ex antiqua et nobili familia de Umfranvile, Ulustre nomen quod ex Normannia In Angliam cum Willelmo Conquestore appulit, Et ad Scotiae confinia praediis et honoribus accrevit, Hinc orti Comites de Angus et Kyme, Aliique praestantes viri Qui in Beilis contra Galliam et Scotiam gestis Sub Regibus de patria optime meruerunt; Hie Carolus non degener, Praeclaris animi dotibus emicuit, Annos natus lvii. die Martij mdcxcvi, LANGHAM. 99 vita functus et voto suo Heic juxta patris tumulum sepultus. Ex Elisabetha uxore sex liberos suscepit. superstites reliquit Elisabetham et Saram Hanc nuptam dedit Samuel Brewster Ex hospitio Lincolniensi Armigero Qui animo erga Socerum Grato, erga Conjugem amabili Hoc posuit monumentum. TJMFREVILE. 8. In memory of W m . Kaley, Esq r ., of Edgeware Road, London, who died 9 April, 1821, in the 65th year of his age. 9. Near this place lies interred the body of Samuel Thayer, of the Inner Temple, Esq r ., who departed this life the 5th day of March, in the year of our Lord 1750, aged 49. A mural monument, on the south side of the chancel, is thus inscribed :— 10. Extra sub CEespite Venerabilis Jacobus Nurth placide requiescens novissimum Domini adventum praestolatur. Vir summa probitate et inter primos eruditus Artium Magister Academiae Oxoniensis Necnon Ecclesiae Anglicanae presbyter insignis, Utriusq: decus et omamentum. Maximam in exequendo munere curam adhibuit et merito Vitae sanctimonia morum gravitate Precibus assiduis, sacris concionibus Consilio salutari, indefessa charitate Amorem omnium et imortalem sibi Famam concihavit. o 2 100 SUCKLING PAPERS. Tandem vitae pertaesus efflavit animam Septeih. xxvn. HINDE. EMFREVILE. GREAT HORKESLEY. Great and Little Horkesley are two adjoining parishes situated at the northern extremity of Lexden hundred, about five miles from Colchester. Their names do not occur in Domesday Book, as they were at that time included in the extensive lordship of Neyland: and it is a remarkable circumstance, that although both had obtained the appellation by which they are now distinguished, prior to the reign of King John, yet we find them described at a period as late as the year 1455, as “parcel of the maner of Neylond, which maner is in the confines of Essex and Suffolk.” The name, which has been written at various periods, Horkesleigh, Horseley, and Horkesley, may probably he derived from poyy, a horse, and lea 3 , a pasture; in allusion to the extensive and rich pasturage which the low lands of these parishes would afford. But perhaps a still better derivation is to be obtained from Jjojq. poplq. J 50 JU 3 , moist, and lea 3 , as before, signifying in the compound the moist pastures ; great part of these parishes lying low, and being hounded by the river Stour, are still subject to frequent inundations. At the time of the Norman survey, this district belonged to Suein, and when the manor of Great Horkesley was separated from Neyland, it is described as being five miles in length, and was then granted to John de Burgh, about the year 1256. It subsequently became the property of the powerful family of Scrope of Masham, in Richmondshire, and passed thence to the crown. It was granted in the middle of the sixteenth century to William Shelley, and from him has passed in succession to the families of Carill, Bayning, Aubrey de Vere, last Earl of Oxford, and Freeman. GREAT HORKESLEY. 101 The church of Great Horkesley comprises a nave, chancel, north aisle, and a square tower. The interior of this very neat structure presents a series of pointed arches supported by clustered columns. The windows are filled with perpendicular tracery. TOMBS. There is a curious old slab on the floor of the chancel, the inscription on which is nearly obliterated. Against the south wall is a neat tablet, bearing the following inscription :— The Revd. Philip Yorke, A.M., the fourth son of the late Lord Bishop of Ely, Prebendary of Ely Cathedral, and for twenty-one years Rector of this parish, departed this life on the 29th day of May, mdcccxvij., aged xlvii. years. This tablet was erected at the expence of his parishioners, as a public memorial of their loss, as a tribute of affectionate respect to their beloved pastor, and as an expression of gratitude and resignation to the will of Divine Provi¬ dence, in having so long vouchsafed unto them a faithful and exemplary minister, who watched for their souls, whose faith follow, considering the end of his conversation Jesus Christ, the same yesterday, to-day, and for ever. ’Twere vain his Christian virtues to reveal, Their praise shall live in this our heart’s record; O, may the love and deep regrets we feel Witness our union with him in the Lord. 102 SUCKLING PAPERS. In memory of Christopher Sadler, Gent., of this parish, who departed this life the 17th of October, 1698, aged 53 years. Also, of Hannah, his wife, who departed this life the 5th of Feb 1 ?, 1719, aged 59 years. Also, of William Sadler, Gent., who departed this life the 15th of January, 1753, aged 69 years. In memory of John Cock, D.D., many years Rector of this parish, and also of Debden, in this county, who died 30th January, 1796, aged 80 years. LITTLE HORKESLEY. This manor, the earlier history of which has been given in the account of Great Horkesley, was held in the 12th and 13th of King John, by Robert, son of Philip de Horkesley, and in the 50th of Henry the Third, by Walter de Horkesley, who held it of the king. In this family it continued several generations, as we find it in the possession of Sir Robert de Horkesley, who died in the 24th of Edward the First, and of William de Horkesley his son. This latter person, dying without issue by Emma, his wife, in 1322, was succeeded in the manor by John de Roos, his nephew, who passed it by fine in 1324, to Robert de Swynbourne. With the Swynbournes, as will appear by the following pedigree, it remained about a century:— Rob t . de Swynbourne = bought the manor of Horkesley, of John de Roos, 1324. William de Swynbourne=Philippa, daughter and heiress of rebuilt the present Sir Richard Gernough. church. Rob t . de Swynbourne =Joane, daughter and rich heiress of obt. October 19th, Anno Sir John Boutetort. 1391. Sir Thomas S. Richard S. John S. Geffry S. Andrew S. obt. 9 Aug. 1412, s.p. obt. s.p. obt. Apr. 22, 1430, s.p. obt. s.p. obt. March 11,1418, s.p. Sir Thomas Swinbourne, the eldest son, appears to have been much employed in the French wars, was mayor of Bordeaux, and captain and constable of the castle of Fronsac, in Guienne. ■■ LITTLE HORKESLEY. 103 Upon his decease in 1412, he was buried in the chancel of this church, hy the side of his father, under a handsome altar tomb of stone, upon which are placed two figures in brass, of the size of life, and represented as standing beneath elegant gothic canopies. This magnificent monument, which remains almost entire, hears upon its edge an inscription in old French, recording the dignities of Sir Thomas, and the period of his decease :— “ Gist. Mohs. Thomas Swynborne, fils du dit Mohs. Rob 1 . Swynborne de Hammys, Mair de Burdeux et capitayne de Ffronsak. Que morout en la veile de Sent Laurence l’an du gee mill: ccccxii.” These brothers leaving no issue, the manor of Little Horkesley passed to the family of Berners; and from thence by female heirs to those of Wentworth, Winch, Denham, Fielder, Bedingfeld, and Husbands. The church of Little Horkesley, which consists of a nave, chancel, and south aisle, presents a series of monuments of high interest, from the twelfth to the six¬ teenth century. The earliest of these are three effigies, rather mutilated, but extremely well carved in oak, and of enormous stature. Two are figures of crusaders, one in a very spirited attitude; while the third represents a female, all probably of the Horkesley family, who, as already stated, held this manor from 1210 to the year 1322. These highly interesting relics, upon which the antiquary could gaze for hours with delight, are removed from their original situation, and barbarously thrust into an obscure corner of the church, covered with dust and rubbish. O tempora! O mores! it is not hazarding too much to assert that they have suffered more injury during the last generation from the hands of cold unfeeling iconoclasts, than time (all devouring time, as he is termed) has worked in nearly six centuries. In large towns where a dense and increasing population renders the removal of ancient monuments in some measure allowable, we may he tempted sometimes to over¬ look such violations, but in an obscure village church, where the inhabitants do not require one half of the space which the walls afford, what can justify such an out¬ rage upon the memory of our respectable and worthy ancestors ? How long shall such indignities be suffered, and how far are our better feelings to he thus harassed and annoyed ? Passing the splendid tomb of Sir Thomas de Swynbourne, and his father, we meet with a monument in the south aisle, formerly ornamented with two effigies in brass, one of which is reaved. The other is here represented, and the circumscrip- 104. SUCKLING PAPERS. tion, which yet remains, informs us of the names and quality of the persons interred beneath :— In the chancel we meet with a very elegant little group, representing a lady and her two husbands. The figures are all dressed in surcoats of their Arms, and a brief record of mortality is placed above their heads. It is a rather singular fact, that the lady ordered by will “ that her effigy should he placed between those of her two husbands, without any coat armour.” How far the latter part of this injunc¬ tion has been regarded is obvious 1 *. In the south aisle of this very interesting church may also he found two smaller brass effigies, without legends, hut each ornamented with a shield of arms. These I am at present unable to appropriate. The following more modern memorials are also placed in various parts of this edifice:— 1 . Emma Lowe, daughter of Thomas Howth Lowe, of Court of Hill, in the county of Salop, Esq r ., died Feb. 10th, 1807, aged 18 years. 2. Nicholas Garrard Lynne, Esq r ., died June 24, 1777, aged 49 years. 3. Here lieth the body of Mary Lynne, relict of Thomas Howth Lynne, Esq r ., who departed this life 21st of November, 1772, aged 68. 4. Harriet, wife of George Sadler, Gent., and daughter of Titus Stebbing, died Jan. 21st, 1794, aged 22 years. a The family of Marney held the manor of Layer Mamey, in Essex, from the reign of Henry the Second to that of Henry the Eighth. Wm. de Marney obtained licence of Henry Third to enclose a Park at Layer Marney, “ within the precincts of the forest of Essex.” He had also liberty of free warren within his manor. Sir Henry Marney was a man of great talent and bravery, and privy Counsellor to Henry Seventh, and Henry Eighth; was Knight of the Garter and Keeper of the Privy Seal; created Lord Marney in 1523, and died in 1524. He was buried in the chancel of Layer Marney Church. He built Layer Marney Hall in the year 1500. John, the second Lord Marney (husband to the lady buried at Little Horkesley) died April 1525, and left two daughters, who sold the manor to Sir Brian Tuke, secretary of Cardinal Wolsey. ^etCfob cl^^'^Wof^tftttVvxufe vm of ottKwte 6oV$ cwc-tlt#^ 2 ft. Ain. Published by John We ale. 50 High Holbora London. 1845. LITTLE HORKESLEY. 105 5. Arms. 1st, Feilder impales on dexter side, vert, a bend lozengy or, Kniglit, and on sinister side : 2nd, Husbands. Feilder bears.2 bars int. 3 pheons reversed. Here lieth interred the body of Elizabeth, sometime wife of Richard Knight of Chawton, in ye county of Southampton, Esq r ., and the late wife and widdow of Azariah Husbands, of Little Horkesley Hall, in the county of Essex, and daughter of John Feilder, of Barrow Court, in the county of Southampton, who departed this life the 24th day of October, 1684, leaving behind her three children, Mary, Edward, and Ann. Also here lieth ye body of Elizabeth Husbands, daughter of Azariah and Elizabeth Husbands, who died November the 25th, 1732, in the 78th year of her age. 6. Husbands impales, or 3 swords in pile, the points in base, and in chief a trefoil slipped, sab. Christ is my life, and death is my gain. The day of death is the day of eternal life. Near this place lies, expecting the mercy of God, the Rev d . James Husbands, LL.D., son of Edward Husbands, Esq r ., and Ann, his wife. He was sometime senior Fellow of Gonvil and Caius College, in Cambridge, six years Rector of Fordham, and many years minister of this parish, for which he had a truly pastoral regard, as appears by his last will and testament. The intention whereof, by reason of a legal defect therein, could not be pursued by his executors; but ’tis hoped will be complied with hereafter by those who shall have it in their power. He was a sound and orthodox divine, of exemplary life, great simplicity of manners, and universal bene¬ volence, and extensive charity. He died without issue the 20th of February, 1749, aged 57. If such a person does not find mercy, where shall the sinner and ungodly appear. Stat sine pede virtus. BURROUGH. SWYNBOURNE. FINPERNE. MARKET. 106 SUCKLING PAPERS. 7. Husbands impales Burrough of Ipswich. Near this place, under the same marble stone, lye the remains of two excellent persons, Edward Husbands and Ann, his wife. He the son of Azariah Husbands, Esq r ., of Little Horkesley ; she the daughter of Mr. Thomas Burrough, of Ipswich. After having lived hapily together to a fulness of years, they exchanged this life for a better, and entered upon immor¬ tality, esteemed and lamented by those who knew them. She died Septem r the 27th, 1733, in y e 77th year of her age. He January the 20th, 1736, in the 79th year of his age. They were both righteous before God, and walked in his commandments after such a manner as to be worthy of praise and imitation. 8. Here lyeth the body of Azariah Husbands, Esq r ., sonn of James Husbands, Esq r ., of Wormbridge, in the county of Herefordshire, who departed this life April 5th, 1666. Besides the church at Little Horkesley may also be briefly noticed the priory, which was here founded by Robert de Godebold, and dedicated to Saint Peter. It was suppressed by Cardinal Wolsey, March the 25th, 1525, to assist in the endowment of his college at Oxford. According to Dugdale, this establishment was at first a cell to Saint Martin of Troarn, in Normandy j but the church of Little Horkesley being exchanged by that abbey for certain lands, which the priory of Bruton had in Normandy, the prior of the latter monastery ever after elected a prior in Horkesley, from among his own canons. This exchange was confirmed by king Edward the Third, in the 45th year of his reign. ( Dugdale , vol. i. 605.) WRABNESS. The church at Wrabness is an exceedingly small edifice, comprising a nave and chancel onlv. The tower, which formerly contained three bells, has long been in ruins, and a wooden cage has subsequently been erected at the south-west angle of the churchyard, in which hangs one bell now used to summon the inhabitants to di¬ vine worship. This being grown over with ivy presents a very picturesque effect. The east window and the north door are both closed with masonry, the latter having a circular arch with plain mouldings. The entrance on the south side, through a small porch, has a door-wav once also surmounted by a Norman arch adorned with billet mouldings, but which has given place to one of a pointed form ornamented with a double line of square florettes, encrusted with the usual share of whitewash. The interior, which is neatly kept, presents a high pitched roof of oak, but no armorial ensign or architectural device of any kind; while its humble octangular font bears marks of the despoiler’s hand in no ordinary way. WRABNESS. 107 The monumental inscriptions are as follows 1. Hie jacent reliquiae, Spectatissimi illius Viri Roberti Riche, cujus vitam purissima religio, candidissima humanitas, Placidissima aequanimitas exornarunt. Lugete Boni Amici vicini! The truly reverend Mr. Robert Riche was father to the orphan, helper of the friendless, a preventer of strife, and one that spent his life in acts of charity and beneficence. He was bom at Hatton, in Scotland, was vicar of Ramsay forty-eight years, and Rector of this church thirty- three years, and a benefactor to it by purchasing a piece of land for the convenience of his suc¬ cessors. He was aged eighty years; and died the 28th day of January, 1728, universally lamented! 2 In the vault across this chancel are deposited the remains of Maurice Gough D.D., SI years Rector of this parish, who departed this life the 21st of February, 1784, aged 68 yearn Likewise of Margaret Gough, his relict, who departed this life the 4th of January, 1792, aged 50 “ Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, even so saith the Spirit, for they rest from their labours and their works do follow them.” Also, of Robert, son of John and Margaret Mary Harrison, who departed this life June 3 , ^Alsofrf Thomas, son of John and Margaret Mary Harrison, who departed this life Jan* 24th, '^AdsTof John Harrison, LL.B., 24 years rector of this parish, who departed this life July 16th, 1808 , aged 54 year, ftobus Gloria Dei. 3 In this vault are interred the remains of John Hull, Esq", a native of Brampton, in Gils-, land, who resided in Harwich upwards of 35 years: practised the during the last 10 years of Us life was in the commission of the peace for tUs county. N ° L - Burgesses of Harwich, departed this life August thC r'samnd t^the^memory of Susannah Campion, wife of Samuel Campion, of this parish, who died July 29th, 1782, aged 38 years. , „„ d 23 Also, Peggy Newton Campion, daughter of the above, who dted October 11th, 1793, aged - '^Likewise the above named Samuel Campion, who died December 21st, 1810, aged 71 year. p 2 108 SUCKLING PAPERS. DOVER COURT. This church, about two miles westward of Harwich, comprises a nave, chancel, and square tower, the latter containing two bells. It possesses a few windows filled with rather elegant tracery, but furnishes no other architectural feature worthy of particular remark. MONUMENTS. In memory 0 f William Thompson, Esq re , Commander of the East India ship Java, who died at Samarang, in the island of Batavia, on the 21st of August, 1818, aged 33 years. Also, Isabella Catharine, his widow, and eldest daughter of the Rev d William Whinfield, who followed her husband to a premature grave, April 7th, 1822, in the 29th year of her age. Philip Baggott Whinfield, eldest son of the Rev J William Whinfield, Vicar of this parish, died at the age of 29 years, eleven of which he served as Lieutenant in his Majesty’s Navy, died 19 June, 1820. Horatio Brabazon, fifth son of the Reverend William Whinfield, who, while pursuing the career of naval service, and aspiring to its honours, was translated hence to a brighter sphere of action and reward, on the 6th day of October, 1820, in the 22nd year of his age. Samuel Baggott, sixth son of the Reverend William Whinfield, and ensign in the West Essex Regiment of Militia, departed this life the 27th of December, 1817, aged 17 years. Also, Henrietta Elizabeth, his sister, died at Teignmouth, in Devonshire, on the 27th of March, 1818, aged 14 years, and was interred in the chancel of East Teignmouth Church, Mr. Ray Powling, late of Harwich, died 25th of May, 1807, aged 68 years. Near this place are deposited the remains of Phineas Phinee, M.D., late Surgeon of the North York Regiment of Militia. He died at Harwich on the 13th day of May, 1813, aged 38. The officers of the regiment, out of respect to his virtues, have caused this tablet to be erected to his memory. Captain Henry Halston, Gent., died February the 18th, 1808, aged seventy years. WIX. FARM-HOCSE NEAR THE SITE OF WIX ABBEY. moat, recently filled up, the eye of the most experienced antiquary would look in vain for the site of Wix Abbey. 109 Mr. John Gibson, late of Harwich, Surgeon, died the 27th day of August, 1773, aged 47 years. ° Susan the wife of the Rev. The- Gibson, Vicar of this parish and of Ramsey, and mother of he sard Mr. John Gibson, died the 18th of November, 1779, aged 78 years; the said Tho’ Gib. son died December 19th, 1779, aged 80 years. Morant derives the name Wix from the Saxon Juc, signifying a village, castle, or dairy. The place, however, became soon after the Norman Conquest, more readily distinguished by its Benedictine Abbey : and if its situation be not so picturesque as that usually ascribed to monastic choice, it at least possesses the fertility of soil universally surrounding monkish establishments. Indeed this is so generally allowed, that W ix Abbey 1< arm is acknowledged at the present day to excel every estate of a similar size in its vicinity, abounding as it does in excellent land. So completely has the work of demolition been executed here, that not a stone is left standing either of the abbey or its extensive premises, and were it not for a gentle subsidence of the soil in the midst of an extensive corn field, said to have been a 110 SUCKLING PAPERS. A farm-house of brick, with antique windows and stone mullions, stands at no great distance from this spot, and, judging from its architecture, was erected at a period not long subsequent to the dissolution of the abbey, and probably with part of the materials, and by the person into whose hands the rich monastic spoil descended. In the reign of Henry the First, the children of "W alter the Deacon, viz.: Walter, surnamed Marscherell; Alexander, his brother, and their sister Editha, founded the abbey here, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. It was of the Bene¬ dictine order, and appropriated to the reception of nuns. Dugdale further informs us, that Henry the Second bestowed upon this house, “ the church of Wikes (Wix), with certain lands and seven villains in that town.” He also granted them “ two grayhounds and four other dogs (bracatos) for taking hares in his Forrest of Essex, with divers other liberties and immunities.” At the suppression of religious houses, the Abbess Mary surrendered this esta¬ blishment to Cardinal Wolsey, when its annual value was estimated at £9% 1~$* 3d. As before stated, not a vestige of its buildings now exists. Of the parochial church, which stands between the site of the abbey and the old hall, the nave alone remains. The aisles are bricked up, leaving the ancient columns a little projecting towards the interior. These piers are octangular, with plain mouldings, and rather low pitched arches ; but the western front exhibits decided marks of much higher antiquity. Its buttresses are plain and flat, scarcely project¬ ing from the main wall, and flank a low browed circular doorway. Against the ex¬ terior of the north wall is a monumental tablet bearing the arms of Hickeringill, and the following inscription :— This iron railing encloses the burial place of the ancient family of Hickeringill, which settled at Pond Hall, in this parish, about the middle of the sixteenth century, where they constantly resided, and have from that time been patrons of the perpetual curacy of Wicks. The vault was closed in November 1805, at the interment of Mrs. Elizabeth Deborah Hickeringill, a maiden lady, the last survivor of the family bearing that name. To preserve their remains sacred and undisturbed, this railing and memorial were placed Anno Domini 1812. Peter Firrnin posuit. In the interior are the same arms, with this inscription nearly obliterated: In a vault in this place lies interred Thomas Hickeringill, Gent., died February the 4th, 1747, aged 81. Also, Elizabeth, his relict, died November the 15th, 1754, aged 68. Also, William Hickeringill, Gent., died 20th June, 1766, aged 53 years. The Rev. Thomas Hickeringill, B.D., died 24th January, 1794, aged 75 years. Deborah Hickeringill, his relict, died 29th July, 1795, aged 88 years. Also, the Rev d Edmund Hickeringill, died 21st of August, 1799, aged 51 years. LAWFORD. Ill ARMS OF HICKERINGILL. A single bell hangs in a cage of similar construction to that at the neighbouring village of Wrabness. Round the lip may be traced in the Longohardic character, “ Sit nomen Domini Benedictum.” In this parish are four manors :—Wicks, or Park Hall; Carbonells ; Hamstall; and the Abbey. Some one of these appears formerly to have been in the possession of the Suck¬ ling family; for, in 1624<, Charles Suckling, Esq r ., of Woodton, in the county of Nor¬ folk, purchased the manor of Langhall in the same county, of his younger brother Christopher. In this deed the latter gentleman is designated as “ Christopher Suck¬ ling, of Wix, in the county of Essex.” The property was probably acquired by the marriage of Christopher’s father with Joan, daughter and coheiress of William Cardinell, Esq., of the adjoining parish of Bromley. LAWFORD. The church at Lawford is a rectory dedicated to Saint Mary, and was purchased by St. John’s College, Cambridge, about the year 1750. It comprises a modern square tower of brick-work raised upon the base of a much earlier structure. A nave, greatly disfigured by late alterations; a north aisle, enlarged in the year 1820 , 112 SUCKLING PAPERS. and an elegant chancel. The latter is distinguished externally by its windows filled with beautiful and varied tracery. The four occupying the entire south side arc* represented in the preceding page. Its interior, in addition to the effect produced by these lights, displays most beautiful stalls and piscinae. The east window is stopped by modern masonry. The churchyard contains the family vault of George Bridges, Esq., and a tomb inclosed within an iron railing, erected to the memory of John Skinner, late of this parish, land agent, whose abilities and integrity had procured him the confidence of the nobility and gentry of this and the neighbouring counties. He departed this life the 18th of February, 1817, aged 56 years. Mrs. Frances Carrington, a sincere Christian and pious instructress of youth, died September, 1808. Sacred to the memory of Anna Maliala, the wife of Robert Carrington, of the Hall Farm, in this parish, who died July the 16th, 1820, sincerely regretted, aged 34 years. In the interior are the following inscriptions :— 1st, Sacred to the memory of George Whitmore, D.D., who was 17 years tutor of Saint John’s College, Cambridge, and five years Rector of this parish, in which stations he endeavoured to do his duty. He died on the 25th day of November, a.d. 1805, in the 54th year of his age. Against the north wall of the chancel is a small monument with the figures of a man and woman kneeling beneath circular arches ; the whole is carved in white marble. On the top are these arms:— WALDEGRAVE. THEND OF THE IVST IS PEACE. Here resteth the bodies of Edward Waldegrave, Esquier, the youngest sonne of George Waldegrave, of Smallbridge, Esquier. He deceased the 13 of August, A 0 . 1584, having had one sonne and four daughters, A 0 . iEtatis sute 70. Also of Johan his wife, who deceased.this Johan was the daughter of George Ackworth, of Luton, in the county of Bedford, Esquier, and M~Bet, his wife, which M-R-Gret was the daughter and heire of . . . . Wilberefoss, Esquier, of the Bisshoprick of Duresme, of which M-Gret this Johan was heire. LAWFOED. 113 Edward Green, of Lawford Hall, Esq™, died the 16th of June, 1814, in the 70th year of his ^ In a vault beneath this tablet lie the mortal remains of the late Reverend William Wood, B D., Rector of this parish sixteen years, who departed this life on the 26th of December, 1821, in the 75th year of his age. In all his relative duties he was strictly just and upright, and to the poor a friend and protector. By will he bequeathed one hundred pounds to be invested in the funds, the interest of which to be enjoyed by his successor and every incumbent hereafter. Rev 4 William Loggan, B.D., Rector of Lawford, who died 24th of June, 1779, ®tat. 42. Thomas Harris, Rector, obiit 28 die mensis Martij Anno Domini, 1699, aitat. sum 65. Juliana, youngest daughter of Thomas Dent, D.D., Prebendary of Westminster, and Alice, his wife, of Lawford Hall, died in the 5th year of her age, August the 3rd, 1706. Elizabeth, second daughter, died of the small pox in her fifteenth year, October the 3rd, ^Catherine, third daughter, died of the same, in the 12th year of her age, April the 4th, 1708. Alice, the eldest, died in the 23rd year of her age, December the 9th, 1714. William Dent, A.M., and Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, died in the 26th year of his age, the 26th of January, 1714. Charles Dent, Esquire, eldest son, married Mrs. Mary Southele, and left issue only one daughter, Catherine Dent, died in the 30th year of his age, Dec. 30th, 1718. These arms are placed on the upper part of the monument. Against the north wall of the chancel is placed a hatchment hearing the arms of in which family that estate is now vested. 114 SUCKLING PAPERS. COLCHESTER. It is a fact concerning which, I think, controversy can no longer exist, that Colchester occupies the site of the ancient Camulodunum. The extraordinary quantity of Roman bricks, the large and elegant tessellated pavements, the exquisite specimens of sculpture, and other accompaniments of Roman taste and luxury, which accident is yet daily bringing to view, prove this spot to have been a station of the first importance ; whilst the frequent discovery of coins, very many of which bear the impress of the word “ Camulodunum”—the distance of the modern Colchester from London, which corresponds so exactly with that fixed by Antoninus as existing between Camulodunum and Londinium*, are sources of argument, which, if they do no^ carry conviction as to the exact site of the Colonia Camulodunum, are very decidedly superior to any which speculation may entertain, or controversy prefer in favour of other situations. Of the great and important works which Roman skill and perseverance raised on this spot, scarcely any portions remain entire at the present day, although fragments proclaim these to have been both numerous and extensive. It has been observed by a discriminating writer, “ that no town in the south of England displays so many fragments of Roman art as Colchester; not a church, nor public building of any kind, scarce an old house is to be seen, but vast quantities of the Roman brick will be found entering into the mass of its component materials, and forming a large pro- portion of its walls.” A delightful volume might be formed, interesting by its pic¬ torial as well as by its literary details, of the architectural and ecclesiastical,*the civil and the military history of this singular town ; few places, indeed, afford materials more attractive, more varied or picturesque ; and I lament that the causes which have placed me at the present time in the county of Essex, have not fixed my tempo¬ rary abode within such a distance of Colchester, as would have enabled me to devote some months to a collection of notices, which might have facilitated the future ■ un¬ dertakings of some individual better qualified than myself by literary acquirements and lefined taste to complete such a design. Commencing at the very earliest period of authenticated history, he might shew the importance which the Trinobantes possessed amongst our aboriginal ancestors ; the preference which their soil and situation obtained with our Roman conquerors; the various and extensive stations ■ Iter v. A Londinio Lugvvallium ad Vallum. A Londinio Cesaromago M. P. xxviii. Colonia M. P. xxiv. (&c.), !. e. 52 Homan miles.—Colchester is distant from London 51, and the Homan miles were some¬ what shorter than those of the English. COLCHESTER. 115 which that wonderful people raised even in this remote province of their immense empire. The claims of Colchester to be considered as the most important among these; the coins which were struck; the temples which were consecrated; the theatres which were raised, and the works of luxury which were here perfected, to suit the convenience, the habits, and the taste of that extraordinary people. Fol¬ lowing the revolution of ages, the desolating effects of war, and the influence of bigotry, the writer could exhibit the subsequent foundation of massive fortresses and wealthy monasteries; the inconveniences and dangers of sieges ; the deprivations, and the horrors of famine. He could point to the ruins of its castle and the frag¬ ments of its monasteries—remains which form principal and very attractive embel¬ lishments to this ancient and beautiful town, even at the present day. But he who enters on such a task, must bring to the undertaking a refined taste, an antiquarian knowledge, and an unweariable diligence, with a leisure and a local knowledge, which are but rarely combined. It is to me, however, a matter of sur¬ prise, that so little has been done, where so much is to be effected; for the dull details of Morant, and the brief pages of his followers, are devoid of taste and rightly directed antiquarian feeling. A general view of this town, as it appears from the Ipswich road, shows that no situation could be more happily chosen either for ancient military defence, or modern taste and convenience. It is a scene of singular beauty and richness, where the eye reposes with delight upon a picturesque landscape, in which the quiet charms of the country are exquisitely blended with those that bespeak the busier occupations of civil¬ ized man. The imagination, from contemplating these combined beauties, indulges in intellectual retrospect, and contrasts its present quiet and happy features with the turmoils of war and the horrors of famine, and peoples the beautiful valley with the stem sectarians of a former age; while fancy, ever busy, points to the rising turret of the castle, and shows these warriors terminating the scene of their protracted and inveterate hostility, by wanton spoliation and coldblooded murder. “To abstract the mind,” says Dr. Johnson, “from all local emotion would be impossible if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish, if it were possible.” “ Far from me and from my friends be such frigid philosophy as may conduct us, indifferent and unmoved, over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied, whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of Iona.” In a subdued degree, perhaps, but perfectly analogous, is that man unenvied who can visit this ancient and interesting town wdthout heaving a sigh over the ashes of her virtuous defenders, or behold unmoved the remains of her former historical importance. Q °2 116 SUCKLING PAPERS. THE CASTLE. The visitor who is embued with those feelings which the recollection of past ages so vividly engenders, who loves to retrace in imagination the days of chivalrous and romantic gallantry, will find less perhaps to excite his emotions in the castle at Colchester than in many more picturesque ruins. But the antiquary will investigate its walls and trace its peculiarities with a more patient and scrutinizing eye. He will discern portions, whose singular construction almost induces a belief that Roman hands originally reared these stupendous bulwarks; nor will his closest examination relieve scepticism on this point, should the Norman ornaments and arches of the exterior engender doubt. This structure, however, as a whole, singular as it is, cannot in my opinion be regarded as of an earlier date than the reign of William the First or Second, although local partiality would refer it to Saxon times. Yet its square form, its flat buttresses, its loophole windows and ornamented gate, speak too decisively to be misunderstood. I have made two exterior views of this fortress, and although they by no means claim merit on the score of art, I regard them with much satisfaction as decidedly possessing more of the character of the building, than any I have yet seen. The views given by Mr. Britton, (particularly that from the north-east,) are careless and inaccurate. As the peculiarities of Colchester Castle consist in the singular mixture of its various materials, I devoted considerable time to this par¬ ticular, and I may fairly venture to affirm, that not a single course of Roman brick is misplaced or omitted in my drawings. I trust to be excused from any charge of vanity in speaking thus of my own performances; my principal object in these collections is accuracy in such matters, a thing surely of more importance than picturesque effect. The first view shews the south side of the castle, of which the walls are composed of clay-stone intersected at irregular distances by courses of Roman tiles, usually single, but occasionally double and even treble, and placed horizontally or perpendicularly, as fancy directed. These courses are composed of a mixture of whole bricks and fractured portions, evident proof, were it needed, that these outward walls were erected from a mass of ruinous materials discovered on this spot. The water-labels, quoins, and dressings of the exterior are formed of a harder material, probably Kentish rag, or Purbeck stone. As the latter have, in a great many places, been forced off, in consequence of their value as squared stones, the whole surface presents a more ragged appearance than time would have produced; and far inferior in effect to the picturesque weather stains and coloured moss of ages. These remarks on the masonry of the south front, will apply with equal correctness . COLCHESTER CASTLE. 117 to the other exterior walls. In the interior, however, a different scene presents itself; the small narrow loopholes, expanding internally to wide dimensions, form in the face of the wall large arches, singularly edged with a profusion of the Roman bricks ; while the massy cross wall displays such a prodigious quantity of these materials, laid in the herring-bone or zig-zag fashion, as to induce an opinion in the minds of many—among whom I confess myself to be one—that this wall is assuredly a genuine Anglo-Roman specimen of masonry. I have dwelt thus long on this subject, because, as I before observed, this mixture of building materials constitutes the peculiarity of Colchester Castle. A general de¬ scription will now suffice to close this notice. The structure, which must have been the mere keep of a larger fortress, measures (externally) on the north side 1^6 feet, and on the south 146, while the east and west sides are each 166. The walls at the foundation are thirty feet thick, and diminish to little less than twelve at the parapet. The north-east and north-west towers are square, while a nearly like-shaped, but much larger one at the south-west angle, contains a commo¬ dious winding staircase, conducting to the different floors and the parapets. This tower is covered by a modern turret; but the chief peculiarity of the ground-plan is the huge and projecting circular bastion at the south-east angle, finished externally by flat Norman buttresses. This bastion contains, on the ground floor, a dreary apartment, lighted by but one narrow loophole towards the east, which modern convenience has enlarged. It served possibly in its original state as a dungeon. The walls of this wretched abode, which are in their thinnest part twenty feet thick, must have afforded ample security against escape, and could have resisted the most formidable warlike machines which the engineers of that period were acquainted with. On the first floor, and immediately over this room, is the chapel, an exceedingly curious apartment vaulted with stone, and highly deserving attention. It is now used as an armoury for the Essex militia. In a recess, on the south side of this chapel, is placed a fine Roman urn, dug up a few years since within the precincts of the outer ballium ; it measures five feet in height, and is composed of a light brown earth. The interior of the keep appears to have been divided into two suites of apart¬ ments, approached by a wide gallery, of which one partition wall alone is standing; that composed of the singular masonry already described. There are several fireplaces, with double flues for smoke, in the eastern and western walls, but they exhibit no peculiarity of design or construction. The only original entrance to this fortress was through the great southern gate, which remains 118 SUCKLING PAPERS. in a tolerably entire state; it had two Norman columns on each side, with carved capitals, and three twisted or torus mouldings in the arch. The groove for the port¬ cullis may yet be seen, and just within it remains a niche where stood the guard or porter. There was, however, a postern constructed in the north-west tower with exceeding precaution. A newel staircase led downwards from the rampart, and terminated at the first floor. A sally-port opened here in the eastern abutment wall of the tower, whence the descent was made by a ladder. The doorways observable in the northern and eastern sides are modern, having been cut with almost incredible labour through these massy walls, which are here not less than thirty feet thick. Some very fine vaults, constructed in the form of a cross, were discovered a few years since beneath the castle. They are said to be turned with Roman bricks, but I had no opportunity of viewing them : it is not a little re¬ markable, that when discovered they were filled with fine sand. The draw well of the castle is near the stairs which descend to these vaults; it is now arched over; but previously to that operation some workmen descended, and at the depth of about twenty or thirty feet entered an arched passage, built of Roman bricks, which di¬ verge from the well towards the south. 1 he outer ballium of Colchester Castle was defended on the south and west sides by stone walls, in which were placed entrance gates, and on the north and east by a rampart of earth thrown on a wall of much greater antiquity than the castle itself. This latter defence is evidently Roman; a very perfect and extensive specimen of which may be seen at Caistor, in Norfolk,—the Venta Icenorum, where the ram¬ parts of earth are thrown over prodigious masses of cemented flint stones. The visitor to Colchester Castle must not forget that it is supposed to occupy the site of the royal palace of Coel, king of the Trinobantes, whose daughter, Helena, marrying Constantius, Emperor of Rome, gave birth on this spot to Constantine the Great. But to investigate this statement would lead us into a wide field of disquisi¬ tion, which it is not the object of these pages to pursue. (Vide Gibbon, Gough, Geoffry of Monmouth, Michael Alford, &c. : the latter writer has cited seventy authorities.) Much conjectural difference, as I have before observed, exists respecting the era of the foundation of this structure. Morden ascribes it to our Saxon monarch, Edward the elder, son of the great Alfred, who indeed repaired the town walls in 921, as is recorded in the Saxon Chronicle; but the claims of Eudo Dapifer, on whom the conqueror bestowed the government of this town, are far preferable. The structure, to me, appears altogether Norman, worked perhaps on a few portions of ST. botolph’s priory. 119 Roman walls. It is Norman in its plan, its ornaments, and in the disposition of its apartments, which bespeak a more refined style of living than our rude Saxon ancestors enjoyed. The government of this castle was granted to the different favourites of the suc¬ cessive monarchs of England, till Charles the First sold the fee simple to James Hay, Earl of Carlisle. In 1683, a Hr. John Wheely, (surnamed the Colchester Vandal,) bought the castle with the express design of pulling it down, and selling the ma¬ terials ; and although much injury was sustained hy the structure, from the unre¬ mitting efforts of this barbarian, who even employed gunpowder to force asunder its turrets and walls, yet the singular solidity of its construction and the soundness of its cement rendered his intentions so unprofitable, that we have to thank the skill of the original builder, and not the taste of Wheely, for its present existence. Disappointed in his lucrative expectations, Wheely resold the castle to the family of Rebow, from which it passed to that of Gray, and is now the property of Charles Round, Esq., of Birch Hall. This gentleman, though laudably careful of its pre¬ servation, deserves censure for allowing a set of dirty cowhouses and sheds to be erected against its walls. Colchester Castle was first used as a county gaol, in the reign of Edward the First, having been granted by that monarch to Laurence de Saccaris, Sheriff of Essex, for that purpose ; it is not now, however, appropriated to that use. Amongst the many confined within its cells, those gallant royalists Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle suffered a temporary imprisonment, and closed beneath its walls a life of almost unparalleled bravery and loyal devotion. ST. BOTOLPH’S PRIORY. The conventional history of Saint Botolph’s Priory is comprised in few words: founded early in the twelfth century, by Ernulphus, a foreign monk, who became its first prior, this house obtained the dignity of being considered as the first of its order in the kingdom, and enjoyed the more valuable privilege of exemption from all secular and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Notwithstanding these honours, the revenues of Saint Botolph augmented but slowly, and its annual value, even at the period of its dissolution, amounted to no more than £113 1 2s. 8 d. It is rather a matter of surprise, that so large a church should have been erected by a fraternity possessing such limited funds. Upon the dissolution, its site and revenues augmented the immense possessions of the Lord Chancellor Audley. 120 SUCKLING PAPERS. But though the chronicles of Saint Botolph are thus meagre in detail, and un¬ connected with any great historical events, a careful study of its curious ruins will amply repay the time and observation bestowed upon them. Independent of their highly picturesque character, acquired by the singular mixture of the variously coloured materials, combined with the usual accompaniments of moss and lichens, this church presents architectural features differing widely from all existing ecclesi¬ astical edifices. “ It is a singular instance,” says Mr. Gough, in his Additions to Camden’s Britannia, “ of Saxon, entirely of Homan brick, if not the oldest piece of entire brick-work in England.” But though Mr. Gough applies the term Saxon to this structure, we must not ascribe it to a period anterior to the Norman Conquest; the hull of Pope Paschal the Second being too explicit to allow any such conjecture. The singularity of the pile consists in the peculiar adaptation of a vast quantity of Roman bricks, which a ruined temple preoccupying the spot” afforded, to the form¬ ation of a series of interesting semicircular arcades, Norman doorways, piers and arches. There is great reason, I think, to imagine that some portion of this Roman temple remained entire at the period of the foundation of the priory church, as the shape and proportion of its arches and columns are allowed by many judicious anti¬ quaries to hear a more strict resemblance to pure Roman models than mere Norman buildings usually exhibit, though they were a rude imitation of the same style; indeed, an examination of the mortar in the interior of the western wall, which can be clearly seen where the fracture exists at its northern extremity, looks so like that used by the Romans themselves ; the very extraordinary similarity of the two arches standing on each side of the great western doorway, to undoubted Anglo-Roman specimens, and which do not appear to resemble arches intended for ornament alone, strongly impress me with the idea that the lower portion of this western front is a genuine Roman work ; that the great door was cut through the ancient wall, the two arches in question closed, and the superstructure raised with the intermixture of those prodigious quantities of Roman bricks and fragments which constitute the mass, not only of its western fajade, but of every other portion of the church, and which the ruins of a very extensive pile indeed could alone have afforded. To conceal the ragged effect produced by the mixture of old and new materials, the whole build¬ ing was covered internally and externally with a firm coating of stucco or cement, an imitation in this respect also of Roman finishing. This church stands just without the town walls, and was, in consequence of its exposure, much injured by the assail¬ ants at the siege of Colchester ; the whole eastern portion is so completely demolished, a In 1738, several Roman urns, with a lamp, some pieces of melted metal, and two coins of the Emperor Domitian, were dug up within the site of St. Botolph’s gate. st. John’s abbey. 121 that the ground-plot cannot now be traced, though it is probable that like all sacred structures of a like period, it possessed transepts with a tower at the point of inter¬ section, and a circular termination or sweep at the altar end. Morant informs us, that in his time persons then living remembered two towers standing at the north and south angles of the western fa§ade. These have altogether disappeared, and what few parts remain indicate so crazy and shattered a condition, that even the very great thickness of the walls promise no long duration of their hoary honours. In addition to the above remarks, I should observe, that seven cylindrical columns are standing on the north side, and three on the south, with a few portions of the outer walls; the columns supported a series of circular arcades divided by square piers; the columns are six feet in diameter, hut their true altitude cannot be deter¬ mined, as the accumulation of rubbish is very great, nine feet alone being now above the surface. From the western doorway to the base of the eighth column the space measures 122 feet, while the clear width within the walls is 56 feet. The aisles are very narrow, being only nine feet wide. Interments are still made within the precincts of the churchyard, and several members of the Thorley family repose beneath the ruined walls. ST. JOHN’S ABBEY. Amongst the many religious establishments which Colchester possessed during the papal ascendancy, the Abbey of Saint John was preeminent in dignity and wealth; and yet, as if to mark the insignificance of man in his very stateliest undertakings, the site of the monastic dwellings, its church, and its numerous accompaniments are unindicated by a single stone. It is not improbable that these sacred walls, destined to enshrine the ashes of their founder to the doom of time, received their last shock from the spirit of usurpation and fanaticism which rioted so long in their vicinity. The walls, inclosing an area of about fourteen acres, may in part he traced, and in the Cotton Mss. is a drawing of the Abbey Church, from which we gather that its shape was cruciform,—a conclusion to be arrived at, almost to a certainty, from ana- logy,—hut the wretched perspective of this sketch warrants the inference that no idea of its proportions, its architectural style, or its elegance, can be gathered from that source. I am justified in these observations by asserting, that no existing specimens of ecclesiastical architecture can be adduced exhibiting similar incongruities, either of ornament or design. After pointing to the elegant gatehouse, crowning a fine elevation to the south of the town, and northward of the abbey grounds, a specimen of that beautiful inter- R SUCKLING PAPERS. 122 mixture of freestone and flints, which distinguished the buildings of the fifteenth century in the eastern counties of England, we have finished our duty as a local Cicerone, and nothing remains hut to recapitulate the historical notices of this mo¬ nastic establishment. Eudo Dapifer, on whom the Conqueror had bestowed the government of Colches¬ ter and its vicinity, participating in the religious enthusiasm which pervaded the breasts of nearly all men of that period, was, fortunately for monkish love of re¬ tirement, witness to a miracle wrought here on Saint John’s Day. Struck with the solemnity of this event, his credulity prompted him to bestow some of the proceeds of his great wealth on the establishment of a religious fraternity,—the site of which was forthwith marked out on the 29 th of August, 1096, on the very spot of this supernatural revelation. An abbey for monks of the Benedictine order, whose number was fixed at, and never afterwards exceeded twenty, was accordingly founded—Eudo himself the next year laying the first stone. Besides his first donations to his rising establishment, the founder bequeathed at his decease an additional manor to it, and an hundred pounds in money, together with “ his gold ring with a topaz, a standing cup with a cover adorned with plates of gold, and his horse and mule.” These latter bequests, as they were probably made in accordance with an usage of the times, will account for the vast quantities of jewels and plate possessed by many of the wealthy monas¬ teries at the period of their surrender. On the death of Eudo, who breathed his last at Preaux, in Normandy, his body was brought thence and interred within the walls of his own endowment, on the 28th of February, 1120. Notwithstanding that obstinate disputes for some time embroiled the peace of its inmates, who became disgusted with, and finally in succession abandoned their resi¬ dence, the zeal of Stephen, Abbot of Saint Mary’s, at York, finally triumphed, and Saint John’s Abbey obtained great immunities, wealth, and dignity. At its dissolu¬ tion, its revenues amounted to £523 17$. 10c?. It possessed the privilege of sanc¬ tuary, and its abbots, being mitred, enjoyed a seat in Parliament. Of the thirty-eight abbots who presided over the affairs of this wealthy establish¬ ment, John Becke was the last, whose zealous devotion to the religion in which he had been educated, induced him, in conjunction with the Abbots of Glastonbury and Reading, to question the authority of their stern reformer. Having refused to sur¬ render his trust, Becke was attached of high treason, September the 27 th, 1588, and with a fate similar to that of John Paslew, Abbot of Whalley, who was hanged for like conduct in sight of his own abbey, was subjected to the same ignominy on the very gallows which he had a few years before permitted the townsmen of Colchester to st. John’s abbey. 123 erect on his manor of Greenstead. Circumstances of great additional wantonness and indignity were joined to the close of this “ sad evening of a stormy life” by the magistrates of the town, who inviting poor Becke to a feast, shewed their warrant and executed him without further warning or ceremony. Viewing the sternness of these harsh acts, the Protestant may be excused a sigh, or a tear even, should it perchance blot his page, in condolence of the fate of these poor men, whose adherence to a creed which we justly deem mistaken, warranted not, on the mild principles of Christianity, such a fearful and disgraceful retribution. The great revenues of this house, (for £500 per annum in the early part of the sixteenth century was a very considerable income,) flowed in the usual channels of Henry’s bounty. They were granted on lease for twenty-one years to Sir Thomas Darcy, who, before the expiration of that term, allowed Edward the Sixth to bestow them on Dudley, Earl of Warwick, ostensibly for his great services in Scotland and France. By this nobleman they were sold to Sir Francis Jobson, Knt., who conveyed them, with the site of the abbey, to John Lucas, Esq., who converted the ruins into a residence, which was demolished at the siege of the town by the Parliamentarian forces. The arms of the abbey were gules, a cross within a bordure or, a carbuncle of eight staves sable, fleury argent over all. Whether an examination of the various churches at Colchester would repay the inspection of the church antiquary I know not, as leisure has never been permitted me for that purpose; the monument, however, of George Sayer, the elder, who died in 1577, and was buried in St. Peter’s Church, as a specimen of fanciful conceit and forced alliteration is extremely curious. In closing my short notice of this interesting place, let me observe, that the ruins of the town wall, portions of the moot-house, and many private dwellings, as exhibit¬ ing singularity of design and construction, are well worthy of observation, while the vast quantities of Roman brick, which form a component part of their materials, prove how extensive must have been the buildings erected here by our Roman sub¬ jugators. It is not my intention to prolong the controversy respecting the window-sill still to be seen in the back of a house in the High Street; the argument is comprised in a nutshell. The shape of the shield containing the letters is decisive as to its age, which, from that circumstance, cannot rise higher than the latter part of the fifteenth century. Strange that antiquarians, possessing so much learning as those engaged in this argument, should have been ignorant of such a distinctive test. r 2 124. SUCKLING PAPERS. STANWAY. The derivation of this name is very obvious. Stanway is the modern spelling of the Saxon stane way, the name applied by that people to the Roman, or paved way, called Ikenild Street, which passed through this village from London to Camulo- dunum. In a charter of King John, it is termed, “ Calcea qu : tendit de Storteford versus Colchester.” Nothing more, however, than the name, and the very straight direction of the entire road, remain to prove the accuracy of this derivation. The church, which though formerly that of the smaller of two parishes, and then called the chapel of St. Albright, now serves the purposes of divine worship to the entire district, which is consolidated. It is a small and very unpretending structure, neither distinguished externally by architectural elegance, nor internally by sepulchral monuments. From its dedication, however, to the Saxon patron saint CEthebryth—from its position, so convenient to pilgrims and travellers on the old Roman highway, and from the shape of its doors and windows, which are small, narrow, and circular-headed, it is of very great antiquity, and without venturing to assert that it is a Saxon pile, I am of opinion that its claim to that distinction is better founded than the pretensions of various structures which are ascribed to that period. It consists of a nave and chancel only, without aisles to either, and has three bells in its little wooden turret, which crowns the western end. It is a rectory in the gift of Magdalen College, Oxford, valued in the king’s books at £10 17$- 6^., the yearly tenths being £1 Is. 9 d. The antiquary will with interest observe that the original windows are not only small, and placed at irregular distances and heights in the walls, a proof of rude and unskilful masonry, but he will also notice that the door on the south side is so narrow, as to prevent the entrance of two persons at the same time. The north door, though now widened and pointed, was doubtless formerly of like proportions. The edifice appears to have been recently repaired, and is kept in a neat and reputable condition. John Droreward, Esq., who died in 1420, founded a chantry on the south side of Stanway Church, in this manor, to pray for the souls of his father and mother, of Catharine, late wife of his uncle, John Oliver, and of Sir Thomas Belhouse, and Thomas Knyvet. He endowed it with seven pounds a year, payable out of Screbe Wood, and out of Belhouse and Olivers. The church of Great Stanway, dedicated to All Saints, is situated in a pic- INWORTH. 125 turesque position near Stanway Hall, on a rather precipitous bank, overhanging a clear and rapid little stream, hastening to join the more expanded waters of the Colne. The two churches were always presented to as one benefice; but the par¬ sonage-house and glebe lands being near the chapel of Saint Albright, or Little Stanway, the former edifice has been suffered to decay. It comprised a nave with two aisles, a chancel, and a lofty square tower at the western end, which is still standing, though in a ruinous condition. The parish contains seven manors, viz.:—those of Stanway, Olivers, Gosehecs, Shrebb, Abboks, Belhouse, and the rectory, which is also a separate lordship, and has the rights of a court baron, with seven or eight tenants, free and customary, whose quit rents amount to eleven shillings and sixpence per annum, and the cus¬ tomary fines are at the will of the lord. INWORTH. Though an humble, this is a very ancient and curious structure. Tradition ascribes it to Saxon times ; but such is the difficulty in deciding on this point, that it will be safer to refer it to an era just subsequent to the Norman conquest. Exter¬ nally it has been much altered, and windows of a larger span than the original apertures have been placed in its walls—one of the older lights may yet he observed over the chancel door ; but notwithstanding these alterations, the interior is still remarkably gloomy. A very thick wall divides the nave and chancel, pierced by three arches of rude and irregular masonry. All are circular and plain, the centre being the loftiest. An attempt appears to have been made to form that on the south side into a pointed arch, which attempt seems to have been subsequently relinquished. The edifice comprises a nave and chancel only, without aisles, and had formerly a square tower at the west end. The font is octangular, but supported by a cylindrical shaft. The tracery of the chancel windows is rather unusual, and deserves notice. I have no data to argue from as to the age of these, but from the general character of their component mem¬ bers, should ascribe them to the reign of Edward the Fourth, or thereabouts. Fifty-seven acres of glebe land are attached to the rectory, which is valued in the king’s books at £10, and pays £1 in yearly tenths. The benefice once formed parcel of the possessions of Elstow Nunnery, founded in Bedfordshire by Judith, niece of the Conqueror, and wife of Waltheof, Earl of Huntingdon. The patronage coming to the crown at the suppression of religious houses, was granted by Philip and Mary 126 SUCKLING PAPERS. to William Riggs and others, from whom it has passed through various private hands. In the interior of the church are the following monumental records :— 1. Here lyeth the body of John Angier, late rector of this parish, who departed this life the 28th day of February, 1731. Also, the bodies of Mary Anne and Mary his wives. 2. Sacred to the memory of Thomas Groom, clerk of this parish 30 yearn. His faith in Jesus Christ was seen in the uprightness of his daily conduct. In hope of a joyful resur¬ rection, he departed this life on the 6th of April, 1825, in the 64th year of his age. There are two manors in this village, both of which formerly belonged to monastic establishments. The manor of Inworth, united with the rectory, formed part of the revenues of Elstow Nunnery, in Bedfordshire. It does not appear by whom it was granted to that house; but the monks were in possession of it as early as the reign of Edward the Third, and continued lords of it till their suppression. The other manor is that of Chedingswell, commonly called Chiswell, or Chiswic Grange, and also Tuttewick. It was held by Coggeshall Abbey, and granted, on the dissolution, to Sir Thomas Seymour, from whom it passed to Robert Riche, Esq., and finally to the families of St. John and Bernard. St. John’s Abbey, in Colchester, also possessed an estate in this parish. LITTLE BRAXTED. The church at Little Braxted is one of those unostentatious edifices which remain unnoticed by the general observer, but delight the antiquary by their decided marks of antiquity and original embellishment. Comprising simply a nave and chancel of equal elevation and width, and lighted for the most part by antique and narrow apertures, we have little cause to deprecate the repairs which this structure underwent in the year 1815. It is in this respect a rare example, and worthy of the imitation of wealthier bodies, who fancy alteration to be improvement, and the destruction of ancient elegance a proof of refinement and taste. In the absence of positive proof arising from documentary evidence, the peculiarly formed windows, being an admixture of round-headed and narrow pointed lights, together with the general simplicity of the plan, refer this edifice to a period little, if it all, inferior to the reign of king Stephen. That the chancel terminates in a circular sweep, mili¬ tates, in my opinion, not the least against this hypothesis. • Indeed, I regard this as a very vague criterion as to the age of any sacred edifice. I am aware that the LITTLE BRAXTED. 127 early Christian churches are said to have been so constructed, in imitation of the Roman basilicse; but then, again. Venerable Bede informs us, in his time the English churches were square 5 . Barfreston, in Kent, which has a square termi¬ nation, is considered by Mr. King; and Stukeley, in Buckinghamshire, of a similar form, is thought by Ducarel, to be unequivocal instances of Saxon construction. I assert not that these opinions are correct; they prove, however, that the most accomplished antiquaries do not regard a circular east end as a necessary feature in Saxon ecclesiastical architecture. We have, moreover, the most authentic proofs, that many churches have been constructed, long since the period of the Conqueror’s innovation in arts and manners, with circular ends. To instance many of these would he unnecessary, though the reader cannot he unmindful of the specimens exhibited by the cathedral churches of Canterbury, Norwich, Lichfield, &c., the era of whose foundation is accurately defined. Two small bells hang in a turret over the western end of Little Braxted Church. Such an arrangement is coeval with the structure, as the lancet windows in the wall evidently demonstrate. These windows are quite devoid of interior or external dressings, possessing not even the cusp, so early applied to this shaped aperture. After these remarks on the outward architecture of this fabric, we shall find little to detain us. The floor, however, of the interior, near the font, is raised in a very singular fashion—a series of steps crossing the entire width of the nave, and which seem to have been designed to allow the congregation an unimpeded view of the religious ceremonies, which consisted very mainly in procession and display. TOMBS. In so small a structure we must not look for numerous or magnificent sepulchral embellishments—such instances are rare; but in the chancel lies a monumental slab, enriched with effigies and armorial devices cut in brass. The former are intended to represent William Roberts, Esq., and his two wives, with their respective families. The escocheons contain the armorial devices of Roberts. 1st, Roberts impales Peryent .... 3 crescents .... and secondly, he impales .... on a chief .... three leopards’ faces for Perton. 3 Speaking of the building of St. Peters Church at York, in 627, by King Edwin, Bede says, “ per quadrum csepit gedificare basilicam.”—Vide Bedm Hist. Eccles. lib. ii. cap. 14. The church at Abhendon, built a.d. 675, was of singular construction, being of a circular form at the west as well as the east end. “Habebat in longitudine 120 pedes, et erat rotundum tam in parte occi- dentali, quam in parte orientali.”—Monast. Ang. vol. i. p. 98. 128 SUCKLING PAPERS. The inscription informs us he died in 1508 ; while the wretched execution of the whole design show how wofully the art of engraving sepulchral brasses had already degenerated. Besides this memorial is a more modern floor-stone, to a descendant of the above gentleman. Here lyeth y e body of Thomas Roberts, of Little Braxted, in y e county of Essex, Esq re , who died y e 20th day of March, anno Domini 1680; aetatisque sum 64. It also bears a large shield, thus emblazoned :— Quarterly: 1 and 4. Roberts, 2 and 3, a chev. int. three leopards’ faces; the whole im¬ paling, quarterly, 1 and 4, a lion ramp. 2. Two fish haurient. 3rd. Three annulets, and on a chief, three annulets. GREAT BRAXTED. This village adjoins Little Braxted, and the lordship is remarkable for having been held by many different possessors. It is now the property of Peter Du Cane, Esq., whose elegant park and residence are said to be enriched by a choice collection of ancient sculpture and painting. The church, which occupies a beautiful situation at no great distance from the hall, is so completely disfigured by modernisms as to be without the pale of a collec¬ tion which professes to be devoted to a display of ancient art. Through all this mo¬ dern disguise, we can, however, perceive traces of considerable antiquity; a plain Norman arch dividing the nave and chancel, and portions of lancet windows in the fragment of the old tower demonstrating its original era. Upon this fragment is raised a tower and spire of timber, in most incongruous taste, while the closing of the large east window, and the erection of a huge and ugly red brick appendage on the north side of the nave, proclaim how totally taste must have vanished from both clerical and lay proprietors in Braxted. Against the outside of the south wall is a marble slab, bearing the arms of Ayloff (a lion ramp. int. three crosses moline) and the following record:— “ Near this stone stood a tomb covering the entrance to the family vault of Sir William Ayloff, Bart., formerly of Great Braxted, but the tomb having been removed by order of the Archdeacon of Colchester, in October, 1814, this stone, part of the covering of the old tomb, has been placed here to preserve the remembrance of it.” Against the north wall of the chancel, but in the interior, is a slab erected to the MESSING. 129 memory of the Rev. Job Wallace, and Elizabeth bis wife, daughter of Golding Griggs, Esq., of Messing. MESSING. The church at Messing, which comprises simply a nave and chancel, with a square tower at the west end, is a vicarage in the patronage of the Grimston family, and valued in the king’s books at eight pounds per annum, the yearly tenths being sixteen shillings. The whole edifice is lofty and well proportioned, and the nave and chancel divided by a noble pointed arch, the inner mouldings of which rest on brackets. But the most attractive feature in Messing Church, is deservedly the fine eastern window of the chancel, which is filled with stained glass of exquisite colouring, and in the highest state of preservation. In its compartments are per¬ sonified the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope, and Charity. “I was an hungred” (says the legend beneath the figures) “and ye gave me meat—I was thirsty and ye gave me drinke—I was a stranger and ye tooke me ynt—I was naked and ye clothed me—I was sicke and ye visited me—I was in prison and ye came unto me.” This valuable glass was presented to the church by Sir Charles Chibhorne, but it is not known from whence he procured it. Sir Charles was possessed of the impropriation and the patronage of the vicarage about the time of Charles the First. The great tithes had been originally given by Aubrey de Vere, Earl of Oxford, to the priory of Colne, and by a singular fortune were granted on the dissolution of that house to John de Vere, a descendant of the former earl, the original grantor, whose grandson sold them to the Chibbornes. In lauding the liberality of him who thus beautified the church of Messing, it cannot he overlooked, that the truest memorial of his generosity would have been a restoration of her rectory, a noble conduct in some cases practised by lay impropria¬ tors, whose occupation of ecclesiastical property is a blot on the reformation, and an augmentation of the robbery at first committed by monastic rapacity. ' CHARITABLE DONATIONS TO THE PARISH OF MESSING, COMMONLY CALLED THE CHIBBORNE CHARITIES. A messuage in several tenements, in the occupation of the. poor of the said parish, situate in the same parish. Also two several sums of forty shillings, chargeable on the manor of Messing Hall, Harbor’s Hall, and Boucher’s Hall, in the parish of s 130 SUCKLING PAPERS. Messing aforesaid. The rents and profits of the aforesaid messuage are for the use of the poor of the parish of Messing, for ever, as also one of the aforesaid sums of forty shillings; the remaining sum of forty shillings to be paid to the minister of the said parish, for preaching annually a sermon on mortality, according to the will of Sir Charles Chibborne, dated 1619- The sermon is preached April 26th, at six o’clock in the evening. MONUMENTS. A few years since, Messing Church contained the effigy of her founder, a wooden figure of a crusader in chain armour, which occupied a niche in the north wall. My sole object in visiting this village was to draw this ancient monument, and my regret may easily be conceived, on learning that the late vicar had given it a short time be¬ fore to the parish clerk, to be burnt as a piece of useless lumber. In a history of Essex, published by a gentleman in 177^» he has thus described it: “ In the north wall of the church under an arch lies the effigies, in wood, of an armed knight. Tradition reports that he was the founder of this church, and we find him called Sir William de Messing. There was an inscription over him, which is now decayed. He is cross legged, which shews that he was a knight templar, or at least concerned in the crusades, which were so much in vogue in the twelfth cen¬ tury.” The parish clerk has obeyed the directions of his tasteless superior to the very letter; not a fragment of this monument remains. 2. On the chancel floor lies a small effigy of a female, without any inscription to identify her descent or connexions; the brass plate on which it is engraved is very much worn, and many of the lines are to be traced with difficulty. I have made a drawing of it, lest parochial iconoclism should consign it to the fate of the templar. The style of the head dress is in the fashion of Henry the Seventh’s time. 3. Here lieth buried John Porter, Yeoman, who died the xxix daye of April, Anno Domini 1600, who had issue 8 sonnes and 4 daughters by one woman. 4. Here lies the body of Golding Griggs, Esq re , who died the 12 of June, 1806, aged 85 years. An unremitted attention to public business for upwards of fifty years secured him the approbation of this County; while in private life a suavity of manners, firmness of mind, and integrity of conduct, rendered his loss peculiarly lamented. 5. In memory of an affectionate husband and tender father, the Rev d . John Cautly, M.A. He died March 1st, 1797, aged 64. If sound sense, sincerity, or a manly primeval simplicity of manners are held in estimation, the world hath here lost a friend. liaynurd. ~1 ll In Messing; Church, Essex. Published by John Weale, 5y High Holborn, London, 1845. LAYER MARNEY. 131 6. In memory of Thomas Theophilus Cock, Esq 1 ., late of this parish, who died at Broad Clyst, in the county of Devon, on the 12 April a.d. 1811, ast. 57, where, in the Chancel of the Church his remains are deposited. As a small testimonial of his excellence in the fulfilment of every public duty, and in accomplishment of each domestic virtue, this tablet is erected by his truly afflicted widow, Elizabeth Cock. His earthly career was philanthropic and honourable, and the close of it, equally with its progress, an example of Christianity to all men. Cock bears an inescocheon thus charged—Sab. two bars erm., in chief a lion pass, argent. The arms of Luckyn occur impaling the second and fifth shields in the drawing. Chibbome, impaling the fourth bearing, are found in a north window. LAYER MARNEY. In the hundred of Wins tree are three contiguous parishes, known by the appel¬ lation of Layer, and distinguished by the names of their most considerable proprie¬ tors in ancient times ; they are Layer Marney, Layer Breton, and Layer de la Haye. The first of these is the object of our immediate investigation. The family of Mareni, or Marney, obtained the manor of the most westward of these villages in the reign of Henry the Second, and retained possession of it till the time of Henry the Eighth. In the year 1160, Hugo de Mareni was Dean of Saint Paul’s, which preferment he held till 1181. Sir William Marney was High Sheriff of Essex and Hertfordshire, in 1402, and Sir Henry Marney, a gentleman of great courage and conduct, was elected a privy counsellor by Henry the Seventh. By Henry the Eighth this dignity was continued, the latter monarch advancing him to the rant of Captain of the Guard, Knight of the Garter, and Keeper of the Privy Seal, and finally, in 1523, crowned his favours by creating him Lord Marney, of Layer. He died in 1524, and was succeeded by his son John, Lord Marney, who, with a coincidence truly remarkable, enjoyed, like his father, the dignity of his title but one year. With this nobleman ended the long line of his ancestry, and their possessions here. Leaving only co-heiresses, the manor and demesnes of Layer Marney were transferred to Sir Bryan Tuke, secretary to Cardinal Wolsey, whose descendants in turn disposed of them to Sir Samuel Tryon, Bart., from whom they passed by purchase, in the 17 th century, to Nicholas Corsellis, Esq., with whose family they still remain. The object of principal attraction in this village, is the gatehouse of the hall, usually distinguished by the name of Layer Marney Tower. This stupendous frag¬ ment of a once very extensive building, is ascribed to the magnificence of the first Lord Marney, who is supposed to have laid the foundations in the year 1500, and 132 SUCKLING PAPERS. the architecture of the pile well accords with such an appropriation. With the ex¬ ception of a small portion of the original house, lately restored, and used as a family residence by Mr. Corsellis, the tower gatehouse is nearly all that remains entire. This imposing mass rises to the height of nearly eighty feet, and contains eight suc¬ cessive floors or stories in each of its octangular turrets, which are respectively lighted by a profusion of small and pointed windows. The intermediate space, over the great archway, is occupied by two large and lofty apartments, commanding extensive and beautiful views over the adjoining country, and the Blackwater river, which here forms a wide estuary, mingling at the verge of the horizon with the waters of the ocean. It is a singularity worthy of notice, that the mullions in the windows of this building partake of the character of Ionic pillars. The capitals of these, as well as the ornamental decorations on the summit of the gatehouse, and the cornices, being formed of white earth, moulded to the intended shape, have much the appearance of stone, of which material it is to be regretted the entire structure was not composed. But when we consider the facility with which brick earth of the finest quality is pro¬ cured in the eastern district of England, and the cost of conveying stone from distant quarries, our surprise must cease at the numberless large structures, both ancient and modern, which have been erected of the first material in this quarter of the empire. Indeed, brick, so much employed by the Anglo-Romans, is a substance so simple in its manufacture, so durable in its nature, and so well adapted to every purpose of con¬ struction, that it is very remarkable any national convulsion should be sufficiently violent or long continued, to render its fabrication neglected and nearly lost. Such, however extraordinary it may appear, is the fact. At the final departure of the Ro¬ mans from this island, the irruptions of barbarians, and the subsequent ravages of the Saxons, drove the knowledge of this and various other arts from the kingdom. Ar¬ tisans finding neither security nor encouragement, and dreading the ferocity of the invaders, gradually retired to the continent, and a lapse of full a thousand years ap¬ pears in the annals of this nation, before the art of forming bricks was again prac¬ tised to any extent. This is the more remarkable, as we have several instances, and especially at Colchester, where the architects of the intermediate times re-em¬ ployed the fragments of Roman brickwork in their edifices of stone. The oldest entire brick building of English construction with which I am acquainted, is that of Caister Hall, near Yarmouth, in Norfolk, erected out of the spoils of Agincourt, and probably about the year 1420. Layer Marney Hall differed in no essential respect from the generality of domestic edifices raised at a cotemporary period; its characteristics were solidity, extent, and grandeur; in the second of these qualifications, it is said to have been exceeded in LAYER MARNEY CHURCH. 133 Essex by New Hall alone, while in the latter, I should imagine, it must have greatly excelled it. The interior of the principal court measured 104 feet six inches, by seventy-six feet four inches, but the apartments surrounding this area have very nearly all disappeared; the effects of injudicious alterations or wanton spoliation. To the present owner, however, the admirers of ancient domestic architecture are much indebted, and Layer Marney Tower, under such judicious reparations and care as are now bestowed upon it, may gratify the taste of our posterity for many generations to come. LAYER MARNEY CHURCH. This church stands at a very short distance from the hall, it is entirely of red brick, and, from the style of its architecture, must owe its present exterior to the pious munificence of one of the Mameys, probably to the founder of the hall. The interior is of a much higher antiquity, lofty and spacious, while the admission of the western sunbeams through a fine pointed arch beneath the tower, adds much to the general effect. In many cases we find this arch closed, and the consequence is in¬ variably a poverty of effect, and frequently gloominess and damp. It cannot be de¬ nied that our ancestors possessed better ideas on these points than do the ecclesi¬ astical architects of the present day, who not unfrequently imitate without success, what they do not understand, and add discordances under the notion of improvement. Thus, in many of our new churches, we find windows placed in the south side of a tower; for what ? To throw light on a dead wall on the opposite side. Not so the architects of a higher period, their ample and beautifully ramified west windows allowed a flood of rays from the setting sun to stream in golden profusion through the entire length of the church, and corresponding generally in size and design with the eastern windows of the chancel, produced, in conjunction with those of the aisles and clerestory, that magic effect created by Gothic architecture alone. In passing censures on church architects of the present age, I with pleasure allow that the last few years have produced some on whom the genius of the “ olden ” school seems to have descended with no common splendour, and I think that the new church at Stratford, in this county, and the tower of Saint Duns tan’s, in Fleet Street, London, are examples not unworthy of any age. It is probable from the influence and wealth of the Marney family, so long settled in this parish, that a church existed here from an early period; all that we know confidently respecting this structure is, that in 1330, William de Marney, by licence dated that year, founded in this church a college for a warden and two chaplains, to SUCKLING PAPERS. 134 officiate in two chantries, which he endowed with thirty acres of land and the ad- vowson of the church; the gift of the advowson, however, appears to have been re¬ tracted, as it seems never to have been separated from the manor; the yearly value of the lands with which it was endowed was at that time ten pounds. The chantries above mentioned I take to he the small building projecting from the south side of the chancel, and the eastern end of the north aisle, which is di¬ vided from the other part by a stout screen of oak. This portion of the building is said to have been begun by Henry, the first Lord Marney, but I should rather imagine it was merely re-edified by him. It is certain, however, from his will, that he directed the embellishments of it, and desired that his body should be interred in the chancel amongst his ancestors. In this chapel he appointed two priests to sing for his soul, the souls of his two wives, and those of his ancestors, an endowment very speedily annulled by the reformation which followed soon after. The whole structure is now tiled, but was formerly covered with lead ; this was sold by the churchwardens during the civil wars, to be made into bullets, and was probably so employed at the siege of Colchester, which being but seven miles distant, afforded, during that eventful period, a ready market for such an article. It is greatly to be regretted that the north aisle, which contains some beautiful sepulchral monuments, should be consigned to neglect and desecration; the windows are closed, and the floor stones torn up, and the two noble arches, which formerly opened to the nave, are tastelessly built up. It is hut just, however, to remark that the part of the edifice still in use for divine worship, which comprises the nave and chancel, is kept in the neatest and most creditable condition. The patronage of this church remains with the Corsellis family, now resident at the hall. It is a rectory dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued in the king’s books at £15 3s. 4 d., the yearly tenths being £1 Is. 4 d. The chancel windows were once splendidly glazed with the arms and alliances of the Marneys, of which the three following shields alone remain. There are several tombs in this church deserving notice, the first is in the centre of the chancel, and bears the effigy of a knight in armour. It is generally supposed to cover the remains of Sir William de Marney, who, by his will, dated 1414, appointed his body to be buried “ in choro ecclesiae de Marney.” The fine and beautiful alabaster, of which the figure is composed, has suffered materially from that unaccountable, yet common practice, which induces the thoughtless to dis¬ figure works of art, by scratching names or tasteless nonsense on their surface; from the violence of iconoclism it has escaped. The arch between the chancel and north aisle is occupied by an inarched canopy, LAYER MARNEY CHURCH. 135 covering an altar tomb, on which reclines the marble figure of Henry, first Lord Mar- ney, dressed in the robes of the garter, and encompassed with that profusion of ornamental details which marks so strikingly the sepulchral monuments of his age. His son John, Lord Marney, lies in the centre of the aisle, beneath an altar tomb, supporting his effigy in black marble, consigned to darkness, damp, and neglect. By his will, dated 1524 , he appointed his body to be interred in this spot, and charged his executors to erect over his remains an altar tomb, similar to that covering his father; he further directed that an image of brass for each of his wives should be placed on the sides of the tomb, and that an altar should be erected at the west end for a priest to sing mass for his soul. These effigies are removed, but parts of the altar may be traced, on which superstition had scarcely celebrated her orgies, when the reformation dawned on the land. As the writer had already walked nearly twenty miles that day, and seven more lay between him and Colchester, the ultimate and most important object of his tour, the shades of an October evening warned him that any attempt to draw these effigies with accuracy and care would be fruitless; with regret, therefore, he left these monu¬ ments of ancient sculpture unsketched. Lest, however, he be charged with apathy on this score, let the reader understand, that having breakfasted at six that morning, he had subsequently already visited the churches of Great and Little Braxted, In¬ worth, and Messing, had made sketches of those portions to be found in this volume, with the brasses, arms, and inscriptions connected with them; had also drawn a view of Layer Marney Tower, the exterior of the church, and the arms and font, and copied all the monuments, without any assistance. Of the monumental inscriptions which follow in this series, one, to the memory of Nicholas Corsellis, Esq., is remarkable for the claim which it prefers m favour 136 SUCKLING PAPERS. of that gentleman, as the importer of the art of printing into this kingdom ; the date, however, of 1674, in which year he died, is so inconsistent with the authenti¬ cated period of its introduction, which occurred nearly two hundred years earlier, that no importance can be attached to this singular position a . The words of the inscription are as follows:— “ Praemissus non amissus Nicolaus Corsellis Arm. dus hujus manerij hie requiescit ab hac vita ad meliorem commigratus a.d. 1674, die Oct. 19, set. 70. Artem Typographi miratam Belgicus Anglis Corsellis docuit, regis prece, munere victus, Hie fuit extremis mercator cognitus Indis, Incola jam caelis, virtus sua, famaq. vivent.” The arms of Corsellis are, azure, a Griffin segreant or. 2. Sacred to the memory of Nicholas Corsellis, Esq re , who died the 10th of December, 1761, aged 64. Likewise of Nicholas Caesar Corsellis, Esq r ., son of the above, who died 24th October, 1806, aged 60. And Mary Corsellis, his wife, who died 31 Jan 1- ?. 1821, aged 74. Also of Caesar Corsellis, eldest son of the above Nicholas Caesar and Mary, his wife, who died at Riga, in Russia, on the 24th of August, in the year 1808, aged 33. Also, of the Rev d . Frederic Corsellis, M.A., Rector of this parish, youngest son of the above named Caesar and Mary, who died on the 4th of January, 1828, aged 39. On an altar tomb in the north aisle is this :— Here lieth the body of Mrs. Amy Chambers, who departed this life October 16th, 1752, aged 66 years. Likewise the body of John Juland, her son, who died Feb. 5th, 1757, aged 48 years. In memory of Sir Caesar Child, Bart., of Woodford Bridge, Essex, ob. Sep r . 24, 1753, aetat. 51. And of Mrs. Frances Corsellis, his sister, wife of Nicholas Corsellis, of Wivenhoe Hall, Esq re , a lady excelled by few in the most amiable accomplishments, so none died more truly lamented. Ob. Dec. 18th, 1759, aetat. 42. a It does not appear that the monument in this place assigns the introduction of printing into England to Nicholas Corsellis, who died in 1674, as it first struck me, but to the name of Corsellis, speaking generally, and the assertion is in some degree true. Bourchier, Archbishop of Canterbury, a prelate of considerable learning, persuaded Henry VI., to despatch Robert Tumour, an officer of his household, privately to Haar¬ lem, where a printing press had been set up, to make himself secretly master of the invention. Tumour persuaded Frederick Corselli, one of the Dutch compositors, after some delay, to carry off a set of letters, and fly with him in the night for London. Corselli consented, and on arriving in England, was set to work by the Archbishop at Oxford, where a guard was placed over him to prevent his escape. Printing was there practised by Corselli, before a press was set up at Westminster. The inscription on the monument in ques¬ tion, without doubt, alludes to this anecdote, which has just presented itself to me. LAYER MARNEY CHURCH. 137 Beneath a window on the south side of the chancel is a large slab of marble, ornamented with the following armorial bearings :— 1st. Cammocke.a cross ermine, impales, 2nd. Badbye.a chevr. engr. erm. int. 3 swans. 3d. Cammocke single; and on the next shield Cammocke impales Everton .on a fess.three de lis.inter three crosses fleury. It is thus inscribed in black letter characters :— Here under lyeth buryed the body of Robert Cammocke, of Layermarney, Gent., who toke to his first wyfe Elizabeth, one of the daughters of Rychard Badbye, Gent., and by her liad issue one only sonne, Thomas Cammocke, and fyve daughters; and by his second wyfe, Marye, one of the daughters of John Everton, Gent., havinge no issue by her, and he died ye first day of Marche, 1585. The said Thomas Cammocke, his sonne, toke to his first wife Ursula, one of the daughters of John Wyrley, of Dodford, in ye countie of Northampto, esquier, & by her had issue 4 sonnes and 5 daughters, & to his second wyfe, ye onlye daughter of y e right honorable Sr Robert Ryche, Knight, Lorde Ryche. Some arms appear to have been broken from off this monument, probably the cognizances of Wyrley and Rich, impaled by Cammocke. Johannes et Gulielmus Bridge hie jacent infra, obierunt mense Decembris Anno Doni. 1674. Uma brevis geminum quamvis tenet hsecce cadaver, Attamen in caslis spiritus unus adest, Itidem Anna Bridge semi anni infans juxta posita est; in quor: omniu memoriam tristissimus pater Samuel Bridge, Clencus, et Rector liujus ecclesise, hoc marmor erexit, Anno Dom. 1677. A large chest stands in the north aisle, which deserves notice on account of the iron work with which it is encompassed. It appears that Henry, Lord Marney, appointed hy his will a brick almshouse to be built, with accommodations for five poor men, and a common kitchen and garden, enclosed with a brick wall: they were to have yearly twenty loads of wood from his land, each man was to receive weekly 1(M., and a russet gown every year ready made. This charitable benefaction was of short continuance, being unjustly granted by Queen Elizabeth to William Tipper and Robert Dawe. T 138 SUCKLING PAPERS. WRITTLE. The extent of Writtle, which is the largest parish in Essex, is its only present distinction, though, in former days, it appears to have been one of the most import¬ ant. By Horsley it is considered as the Cmsaromagus, mentioned in the fifth Iter of Antoninus, and the distance of that station, twenty-eight miles from London, agrees well with the position of modern Writtle. But, “ notwithstanding the pomp¬ ous name of this station,” says Dr. Henry, (Caesar’s seat,) “its very ruins are now so entirely ruined, that its exact situation cannot he discovered; but by the distance from London, and the direction of the road on which this rout (Iter v.) proceeds, it must have been at or near Chelmsford.” No indications, I believe, of Roman Castrametation are visible here at the present day to determine this point. At a period far remote from that in which some Roman commander made choice of Writtle for a military station, the inglorious John, from causes not now remembered, erected in the same village a royal palace, a few incon¬ siderable ruins of which are said to be remaining on the village green, about a quarter of a mile to the left of the public road leading towards Chelmsford. WRITTLE. 139 The disappearance of all these vestiges of ancient importance shew in a very striking light the instability of human grandeur, where neither the stupendous la¬ bours of Roman ambition, nor the luxuries of royalty, have left a wreck behind. The ecclesiastical history of this place is well determined, but remarkable for the frequent changes it has experienced. From the shape of the font, carved in very hard stone, a church must have existed here from a very ancient period; certain however it is, that in 1143 King Stephen granted it to the priory of Bermondesey, in Surrey ; eighty years subsequent to this donation, King John obtained possession of it, whether by the right of purchase or exchange, or by an arbitrary stretch of violence, so common in the annals of his reign, I know not; but by him it was bestowed on the hospital of the Holy Ghost, at Rome, belonging to the English resident there, and and its funds destined to the maintenance of the poor and infirm. In the second year of Edward the Third’s reign, this appropriation was confirmed. Being afterwards seized as belonging to an alien hospital, it was obtained by William of Wickham, who augmented the revenues of his new college at Oxford with its impropriation, and presented to the warden and fellows the patronage of the vicarage. With this body both still remain, being exempt from all episcopal jurisdiction, and subject in spiritual matters to the commissary of that college alone. The church consists of a lofty nave and chancel with two aisles, north and south porches, and two small transepts or chapels; that on the south side being of red brick, and about Henry the Eighth’s era. The tower is square, and being built of red brick in 1802, is consequently tasteless and inelegant. Over the west door of this tower is inserted a curious piece of sculpture, preserved probably from the ruins of the older structure. The interior of the edifice is remarkably light and pleasing, and had not an oaken roof been laid over it of too flattened an arch, the tout ensemble would be exceedingly fine. This roof is sustained in the nave by an arcade of five pointed arches resting on cylindrical pillars, finished with round and plainly moulded capitals; while the columns of the chancel, though of like form, have octangular capitals. The fiist arch eastward of the nave is much wider than any other in the church ; and that at the west end is as remarkably contracted. It would be difficult to account for t 2 140 SUCKLING PAPERS. these incongruities, which, besides detracting from the beauty of the structure, must have added materially to the expense of its erection. BENEFACTIONS TO THE POOR OF WRITTLE. “ a.d. 1506. Tho 3 . Hawkins gave about sixty acres of land to endow Alms Houses in the churchyard. “ 1591. William Horne gave for bread, £2 13s. 4c/. “ 1605. Edward Hunt gave two tenements, and yearly to two poor persons in¬ habiting the same, £1. “ 1634. Dorothy Davis gave for bread, £2 13s. 4 d. “ 1767- Eleanor Jones gave for bread, £1. “ 1774. John Blencowe gave for the education of poor children of Writtle and Roxwell, £1200. “ 1776. Sarah, Viscountess Falkland, annually for bread to the poor who attend the church, the interest of £121 Os. 8c/., vested in the 2 per cents. “ 1811. William Francis Henry, Baron Petre, gave the timber for the frame work of the bells. “ 1811. Mr. Flenry Lambrith gave one hundred pounds towards the expense of recasting the bells, Bumstead’s Farm, Parken’s tenements inGreenbury, East Hays, in Church Haw Street, one tenement, two shillings yearly from a piece of ground near the leet. “ The organ was the gift of Thomas Penrose, D.C.L., Vicar; and P. C. La- bouchere. Esq™, of Hylands, 1821, and an addition was given to the organ by Henry Lambrith, Esq r0 .” MONUMENTS. V rittle church must at one period have possessed a fine collection of sepulchral brasses, as the numerous matrices robbed of these ornaments evidently prove. Of those which remain, four lie on the floor near the chancel door, two warriors and their wives; the inscription is reaved, but by their costume we may infer that they flourished during the reign of Henry the Seventh. Three of these effigies are re¬ presented in the annexed drawings, but the fourth is covered by the frame work of an inner door of baize, which prevents a copy from being taken ; indeed the position of the whole group, which exposes it to the constant tread of the congregation, is highly injurious to its preservation. WKITTLE. 14.1 On a fantastic mural monument against the north wall of the chancel is this inscription:— M. S. Edward Pinchon et Dorothea Weston una olim caro unum nunc cadaver hoc in tumulo Christum expectat, Vixere singulari erga Deum fide Paii inter se concordia, Nec alia erga homines charitate, Hoc si filio masstiss 0 dicenti non credis Interroga viciniam, Interim cave mali quicquam de illis dicas Nam etiam mortui bene audiunt. On the top of this monument, in allusion to ears of wheat carved there, are these lines:— Petra erat X. R. S. Si non moriatur, non reviviscit, Vos estis die agricultura, Messores nos savit, fovet, lavit, coget, renovabit, congregabunt. Arms : Pinchon quarters Weston; Gules, 3 pears or; and a chev. reversed of the second. In the third quarter; Argent, two bendlets engrailed sab. 4 qr. as the first. 2. Near this place lies interred the body of that truly great and good man, the Rt. Honble Sir John Comyns, Knt., late Lord Chief Baron of his Majesty’s Court of Exchequer, univers¬ ally esteemed one of the brightest ornaments of the Bench, and ablest lawyers of his time, who departed this life on the 13th day of November, 1740, aged 73. That a character of so much piety, learninge, and merit should not be buried in oblivion, but remain as a shining example to others, this monument (out of duty and gratitude) was humbly erected to his memory by his Nephew and Heir, John Comyns, of Hylands, Esq re , 1759. Cui pudor et justitiae soror Incorrupta fides, nudaq: veritas Quando ullam invenient parem. This monument bears the arms of Comyns, and a marble bust of the Chief Baron. 3. An altar tomb of Purbeck marble, of the style of the fifteenth century, pro¬ jects from the north wall of the chancel; it bears no inscription, but has the follow¬ ing armorial ensigns attached to its side, engraved on brass plates :— 1st. A martlet, charged with a mullet for difference, on a chief, five balls. 2. The same shield impales quarterly,—1st, two lioncels pass, guard, crowned. 2nd, three bendlets int. a bordure. 3rd, two bars, and a bend, surtout. 4th, a fret, and a chief. 3. The first shield also impales quarterly 1 and 4,barry of four, on a chief, a lion pass, guard. 2nd and 3rd, ermine, on a chief, two mullets. 142 . SUCKLING PAPERS. 4. Over the vestry door is a mural monument in the taste of the sixteenth cen¬ tury, on which are rudely carved the kneeling effigies of a man with four sons before a faldstool, on the other side of which are similarly placed those of a female and her six daughters. The inscription is as follows:— Nere unto this place resteth in peace the bodie of Edw. Elliott, late of Newland, in the countye of Essex, Esq re , Sohe of John Eliot, of Stortford, in the countye of Hartford. He tooke to wife Jane, one of the daughters of James Gedg e , sone and heire of Margaret Gedge, one of the daughters and heires of Thomas Bardfield, of Shenfield 3 , in the countye aforesayd, by whom he had issue iiij sonnes, and vj daughters, whereof he left living iij sones and five daughters. They lived together in married estate xxxviij yeres, and he deceased the xxij day of Decemb. in the year of our Lord, 1595, aetatis suae 60. Above this inscription are some verses too high to he read from the ground, but this circumstance is probably little to be regretted. 5. To the memory of Frances, late wife of Richard Comyns, Esq re , Seijeant-at-Law, who dyed ye 30 of Sep 1 ', Anno Dni. 1773. 6 . On the floor of the nave lie the effigies represented in the opposite page. The inscription is lost; hut at their feet stand two groupes of children, consisting of six sons and two daughters. The arms attached are, a chev. int. 3 mullets. 7. Here lyeth interred the body of Catharin Petre, wife of Joseph Petre, of Fittelers, in the county of Essex, Esq re , daughter of Sir William Andrews, Baronet, who dyed ye 3 of December, 1700, in the 32 year of her age. Arms : Petre impales Andrews. 8 . Within the altar rails lies a floor stone, with an inscription to the memory of the Rev. John Birch, LL.B. 9. Here lyeth the body of John Pynchon, of Writtle, Esq re , son of Sir Edward Pynchon, of Writtle, Knt., who departed this life ye 30 day of July, 1654. And also ye body of Edward Pynchon, Gent., son of ye said John Pynchon, Esq re , who departed this life ye 12 day of Feb 1- ?, 1672. And also ye body of Ann Pynchon, wife of ye said John Pynchon, Esq re , who departed this life ye 10 day of May, 1675. 10- Hie jacet Quod mortale fuit Godfridi Thacker, Nup Hospitij Grayensis, Ar : Qui obiit undecimo die Aprilis, Anno Salutis humanse, MDCCIIJ 0 . .dStatis suae, LVIIJ 0 . WRITTLE. 143 Hie etiamjacet Bridgetta Thacker, Soror Godfridi, Qu® obiit, 24° die Maij, Anno Domini 1732, ^Etatis suae 81. * *' Agatha, Conjux Johis Rogers Civis Londini, Soror Thom® Houghton hujus ecclesi® Vicar—qu® Bar is casibus puerperij Mature gravida invito obstetricantis ingenio Partum non enixa difficulter obdormuit. H.SS. xvi die Augusti, 1684. 12 ; H. S. S. Elizabetha, uxor Thom® Swallow, LL.B., hujus ecclesi® Vicar; Filia Artheri Hyde de Hinton Daubney, in Agro Southton, Armig. qu® ob. 2 die Julij, Anno Dom. 1728, ®tatis su® 29. H. S. S. Thomas Swallow, LL.B., hujus parochi® cum capella Roxwell annexa Vicarius. Ob. xxij Aug. mdcclv, ®tatis su® lxviij. 13. Randall Adams, Esq re , eldest son of John Adams, Esq re , late of Writtle, departed this life 9 day of April, a.d. 1725, aged 55 years. He married Elizabeth, daughter of John Weever, of South Luffenham, in the comity of Rutland, Esq re , and had issue by her two sons and two daughters, who all survived him. 14. George Emport, of Calveley, in Cheshire, Esq re , and Elizabeth, his wife, one of the daughters of Will. Comyns, of this parish, Esq re . She departed this life, 14 day of Nov. 1731, aged 56 ; he upon the 7 November, 1735, aged 84. 15. Bene nata—bene eradita, Forma ingenio et virtutibus insignis, Christi cultrix frequens et sincera, Annos 27 vixit Bella Comyns, Morbo lento et incurabili Fortitudine plusquam feminea diu luctata, Graviora passa dum filiolas Pr®matura morte extinctos Flevit, Quietam solamen et immortalitatem Quam meruit felieem, Adsecuta est, 1 44- suckling PAPERS. Prid Iduum, Oct. 1738. Amoris et pietatis ergo, hoc marmor posuit Johannis Comyns de interiori Templo Armig. Fidelissiraam lugens quam comitari maluit uxorem. 16. Here lyeth buryed the body of Edward Bowland, Gentleman, who departed this life, with blessed memorye, the 14 of September, 1609. Here lyeth Jone, the wife of Edward Bowland, Gent., who dyed the 18 of Aug. An 0 . Dni. 1616. 17 . On a brass plate affixed to the wall are two figures kneeling before a fald¬ stool. Obiit xiiij die Augusti, 1606. Vivit post funera virtus. Neere to this place resteth the bodie of Edwarde Hunt, late of Wrytle, Gent., who lyvinge was muche beloved, releeved the poore, and by his laste will gave in perpetuytie two almshouses in Churche Lane, w 111 an yerely allowance of twentye shillinges for their better maintenance, and also hath willed for ever to ye poore of this prishe, to be yerely distributed on Good Fryday, x shillinges, w ch somes are lymytted to be paid out of a parcell of lande called Appes- field, in Chelmsforde parishe, as by his saide wille at large appeareth. THE FONT AT WHITTLE. GREAT BURSTEAD. 145 GREAT BURSTEAD. The etymology of this name plainly refers to works of Roman construction, though it is now impossible to determine their precise appellation. Camden, how¬ ever, has not scrupled to fix the Csesaromagus at this place, though in this opinion he is unfollowed by a single antiquary, and totally unsupported by the discovery of ancient remains. It is most probable that the Romans had merely a fortilage here to protect their military way, which proceeding from Tilbury to Ongar, passed through this village. But of this inconsiderable fortification, if such did actually once exist, no traces are now perceptible. About a mile, however, westward of Billericay, and crowning the summit of a gentle swell, stands a modern farm-house, retaining the name of a more ancient structure, called Blunt’s Wall, and which, a few years since, is said to have shown some faint traces of a vallum and ditch, enclosing about four acres. This would therefore seem to be the most probable site of the long sought Roman operations in this village—a supposition much strengthened by the peculiar name which the spot still bears. The word wall is evidently a Saxon corruption of the Roman vallum, and was unspecificallv applied by the former people to any military work of their predecessors in this island. Upon the partition of the kingdom by the followers of William the First, the village of Burstead was appropriated by a Norman family of the name of Le Blond, who, in all likelihood, finding the Roman fortilage in a condition still capable of defence, adopted as a residence a position so well adapted to protect them from the violence of a people who were as yet but partially subdued. Hence, without any violent contortion of language, may be obtained a name, at once indicative of Roman occupation, and of subsequent Norman possession. THE CHURCH at Great Burstead is a plain and unpretending structure of Norman origin, though much altered, and probably nearly rebuilt at subsequent periods. It now comprises a nave and chancel of the same width, with a south aisle running the entire length of the edifice, and divided from the former portions by a series of pointed arches, resting on octangular shafts, which have plain capitals. The tower, which contains u SUCKLING PAPERS. 146 five bells, is square, and crowned with a spire. Windows of various eras occur in the walls of this building, though undistinguished by peculiarity of tracery or design. A general gloom pervades the whole interior, the result of tastelessness and sordid parsimony, which, pocketing the impropriated revenues of this benefice, have grudged the small sums requisite to keep in repair the chancel window, and have, in accord¬ ance with this narrow feeling, closed it with brick and mortar. It may be fairly inquired in this place, how far those, to whom the care of our sacred structures is committed, conscientiously discharge their public duty, by permitting such innova¬ tions in the first instance, or by allowing their continuance. These observations on Great Burstead church may be closed by noticing an octagonal but plain font, a curious old chest of oak, well banded with iron, and a few fragments of stained glass, amidst which appears the central coat of arms, as represented below:— MONUMENTS. In the church are the following, amongst many others :— 1. Near this place lye all that could die of Joseph Fishpoole, who departed this life the 23 June, 1703, aged 56 years. Also, of Rebecca, his wife, who died 9th Dec r . 1741, aged 87 years. Likewise of J. Fishpoole, their son, who departed this life 19th March, 1755, aged 73. And lastly, of Ann Abbutt, widow, their daughter, who died 3 December, 1759, aged 75 years. She bequeathed by her will i?100 to be laid out in the purchase of land, or invested in one of the public funds, and the interest of it to be equally distributed between five poor widows of this parish, who are members of the Church of England, annually for ever, and directed the same to be called Fishpoole’s gift. 2. Felton Nevill, Esq re , late of this parish, departed this life September the 28th, 1780, aged 59 years. 3. In memory of Mrs. Eleanora Sterry, relict of the Rev d . Wasey Sterry, formerly Vicar of Henham, in this county, who died the 24th of January, 1829, aged 80 years. GREAT BURSTEAD. 147 M. S. Georgii Porter, M.A. Aliquandiu Capellse apud Billericum Ministri, Pii, comis, humani, Conjugis fidi, Benigni Parentis Inopino morbo afflictus obdormivit vij Kalend. Decembrium, Anno Salutis, mdcccxix. ^Etatis lvi. U 2 INDEX. ARMS. A. PAGE G. PAGE Ayloff . 128 Green . 113 Grimston 85 B. Badbye . 137 H. Beauchamp . 65 Hickeringill . Ill Berwick . 7 4 Hinde Beulie . 67 Hollingworth 3 Burrougli . 105 Hucks . 96 Husbands . . 105 C. Cammocke . . 137 K. Cloville . 96 Knight . 105 Cock . . 131 L. Cole . . 70 Comyns . 141 Lynne . 105 Crickett D. . 27 Marney M. . 105, 135 Deincourt . . 55 N. Dent . . 113 Nevill Disney E. 8 Nicoll P. 91 Engaine 55 Perton . 127 Everton . 137 Peryent . 127 F. Pinchon . 141 Finderne . 105 Poyntz 62 Fishpoole . . 146 R. Fitche 9 Radcliffe . . 135 150 INDEX. Gough Green Gretton Griggs Groom Halston Harrington . Harris Haselfoot Haven Hewyt Hickeringill. Hicks. Hinde Hollingworth Hollis. Hopkins How . Hull . Hunt . Husbands . Ireland Kaley Latham Leigh . Loggan Lowe . Lynch Lynne Markham . Mason Master Merchant, Le H. K. L. M. PAGE . 107 . 113 49 , 50 . 130 . 126 . 108 33 . 113 . 33 29 7 . 110 95 , 96 . 98 3 . 53 . 58 3 . 107 . 144 105 , 106 Messing Mildmay Nevill Nicholas Nicoll Nurth Peers . Peirse Pert . Petre . Peveril Phinee Porter Powling Poyntz Prescott Pynchon 136 . 56 3 . 113 . 104 . 27 . 104 68 22 92 32 Radcliffe Ray . Redman Riche . Roberts Russel Rysbye Saddler Salter. Sayer . Skinner Smith . Stanley Sterry Strutt Stubbs N. O. P. R. S. . 130 80 , 91 . 146 . 68 91 , 92 . 99 8 . 39 . 21 38 . 142 83 . 108 130 , 147 . 108 . 63 . 38 . 142 . 30 34 . 57 . 107 127 , 128 . 65 84 104 70 123 112 7 56 146 49 57 INDEX. 151 PAGE Sulyard . 51 ' Swallow .... . 143 Swinbourne.... . 103, 104 W. T. Waldegrave 112 Tanfield . ... 15, 16, 20 Wallace . 32, 129 Taylor .... 3 Warren 7 Thacker .... . 142, 143 Watson 98 Thayer .... . 99 W eston 141 Thoby, Tomb at . 41 Wharrie 58 Thompson .... . 108 Whetcombe 16 Torrell .... . 69 Whinfield . 108 Twedge .... 21 White 78 Tyrell .... . 33 Whitmore . 112 Wing 107 Wiseman 69 Umfreville .... Wood 113 PARISHES. B. Fifield, Church at 72 Blackmore .... . 23 -, Font at . 73 Boreham .... 28 Flemming’s Hall 52 Bradfield .... 84 Fryerning . 7 Braxted, Great . 128 -Little . 126 Burstead, Great, Church at . . 145 Greenstead . 4 Butsbury .... . 20 H. C. Hatfield Peveril . 80 Chelmsford.... . 79 Horkesley, Great 100 Colchester .... . 114 -, Monument at . 101 -, Castle at . 116 -, Little . 102 1 1 0 . . i u -St. John's Abbey. . 121 D. 53 . 92 123 Dover Court . 108 F. J. Fifield 71 Jericho House 27 152 INDEX. L. PAGE Langham ....... 9 6 ■ -, Church of.97 Lawford . . . . . . .111 -, Windows at . . . . .111 Layer Mamey ...... 131 -, Church at . . .133 -, Font at . • . . .138 M. Margaretting ...... 9 -, Vicarage at . . .12 Messing . . . . . . .129 Mountnessing ...... 36 N. PAGE New Hall.34 O . Ockenden, North ..... 60 S. Springfield ....... 48 Stock . . . . . . . .21 -, Font at ...... 22 -, Parsonage at . . . .23 Stondon Massey ...... 1 --, Church at . . . . 2 -, Windows at ... 2 DIRECTIONS FOR THE BINDING OF THE ILLUSTRATIVE PLATES. THIRTY-FOUR TO FACE 1. Church of Stondon Massey ........... 2. Greensted Church ............. 3. -Plan, south side, Piscina, and Arms of Smyth and Warren 4. Fryerning Church ............. 5. Arms of Disney, Brasses in Fryerning Church ....... 6. Margareting Church, from the Vicarage Gardens ....... 7. -View of the North Porch ....... 8. -Interior of the Aisle, looking eastward ..... 9. -Arms and Brasses in ....... 10. West end of Tower, Stock Church .......... 11. Blackmore Priory Church ........... 12. Boreliam Church ............. 13. New Hall .............. 14. Springfield Church ............ 15. -Armorial Bearings 16. Upminster Church, Interior ........... 17. -Brasses and Arms of Deincourt, Engaine, Redman, Hornby, Bamfil, Esdaile, and Brydges 18. Arms and Brasses in North Ockenden Church ........ 19. Willinghale Spain and Willinghale Dou ......... 20. Fifield Church, Sedilia and Piscina. 21. Hutton Church ............. 22. —*-, Arms and Brasses .......... 23. West Door of Tower, Chelmsford Church. 24. Hatfield Peverell, View of the Priory Church (to face Title page). 25. Effigies 26. .. 27. Brasses. 28. -and Arms.. 29. Colchester Castle 30. Front and West end of Little Braxted Church. 31. Arms of Luckyn, Chibborne, Baynard, Cock, Daniel, &c., and Effigy 32. Effigy of Marney, &c. 33. Layer Marney Tower. 34. Arms of Petre, Andrews, Comyns, Pinchon, Emport, and Monumental Effigy 1 4 9 9 13 14 15 21 25 34 48 49 55 55 63 65 71 75 77 79 90 103 103 104 116 126 130 134 135 142 ERRATA. Page 6, line 7, instead of full stop put a comma. -62, line 9 from the bottom, for “bespeak,” read “ bespeaks.' 84-b8a%